From dconnitt at fuse.net Wed Dec 1 08:48:12 2021 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Wed, 1 Dec 2021 10:48:12 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4A trunk hinge question Message-ID: Hi all, It?s been some time since I have posted on this list but here goes. During the restoration of my TR4A, I had purchased a new set of hinges for the trunk which was about 10 years ago. After noticing one hinge coming apart I found that the short threaded stud one that hinge actually pulled itself out of the hinge. Two questions: 1. Is this a common failure mode? 2. If I used red Locktite or JB Weld to secure the studs would they stay put? Thanks, Dave Connitt DavesTR4A.com Sent from my iPhone From auprichard at uprichard.net Wed Dec 1 09:23:48 2021 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (auprichard at uprichard.net) Date: Wed, 1 Dec 2021 11:23:48 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4A trunk hinge question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <006301d7e6cf$d362b840$7a2828c0$@uprichard.net> I have had this happen a few times. I have not had success with Locktite, but JB weld has worked. Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan -----Original Message----- From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Dave Connitt Sent: Wednesday, December 1, 2021 10:48 AM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] TR4A trunk hinge question Hi all, It?s been some time since I have posted on this list but here goes. During the restoration of my TR4A, I had purchased a new set of hinges for the trunk which was about 10 years ago. After noticing one hinge coming apart I found that the short threaded stud one that hinge actually pulled itself out of the hinge. Two questions: 1. Is this a common failure mode? 2. If I used red Locktite or JB Weld to secure the studs would they stay put? Thanks, Dave Connitt DavesTR4A.com Sent from my iPhone ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From notakitcar at yahoo.com Wed Dec 1 09:44:16 2021 From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (Notakitcar) Date: Wed, 1 Dec 2021 10:44:16 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR4A trunk hinge question In-Reply-To: <006301d7e6cf$d362b840$7a2828c0$@uprichard.net> References: <006301d7e6cf$d362b840$7a2828c0$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <001101d7e6d2$ae631a50$0b294ef0$@yahoo.com> Agree, JB Weld will do the job. Bill B TS30800L -----Original Message----- From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of auprichard at uprichard.net Sent: Wednesday, December 1, 2021 10:24 AM To: 'Dave Connitt' ; 'Triumphs' Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A trunk hinge question I have had this happen a few times. I have not had success with Locktite, but JB weld has worked. Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan -----Original Message----- From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Dave Connitt Sent: Wednesday, December 1, 2021 10:48 AM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] TR4A trunk hinge question Hi all, It?s been some time since I have posted on this list but here goes. During the restoration of my TR4A, I had purchased a new set of hinges for the trunk which was about 10 years ago. After noticing one hinge coming apart I found that the short threaded stud one that hinge actually pulled itself out of the hinge. Two questions: 1. Is this a common failure mode? 2. If I used red Locktite or JB Weld to secure the studs would they stay put? Thanks, Dave Connitt DavesTR4A.com Sent from my iPhone ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com From mtgaines at presby.edu Wed Dec 1 09:52:25 2021 From: mtgaines at presby.edu (Tim Gaines) Date: Wed, 01 Dec 2021 16:52:25 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR6: gauge LEDs and headlight switches Message-ID: Despite some difficulties I'm making progress in installing LiteZupp LEDs into the instruments in my 1974 LHD TR6. The difficulties stem from my (possibly foolish) decision to do the job without removing the dash. With the help of a couple of long-reach needle nose pliers I've replaced the two illumination bulbs in each of the speedo and tach and the single ones in the temperature and oil pressure gauges, not without several scrapes to my fingers. However, I really don't think that will work with the fuel and temperature gauges on the right. There are just too many obstacles, so something is going to have to be removed, likely either the radio or the glove box or both. It looks to me as if the glove box space would provide the best access, but I have read of some difficulties in getting it back in place after removal. I would appreciate any advice from those who have done these bulb replacements or taken out the glove box. In the process of doing this bulb job I came across another problem. The new LED for the high beam indicator just wouldn't light, and it didn't matter which of the new LEDs I put in. So I went back to the old incandescent bulb and it didn't light either despite having worked a short time earlier. After checking the wiring to the socket and finding no issues I decided that the problem must be the iffy headlight dimmer switch on the right side of the steering column. I say "iffy" because occasionally I had found that switching to high beam left me with no headlights at all! I took off the plastic cowlings and got access to the switch though I couldn't pull it out because its wires are clamped within a channel under the steering column. Nevertheless, I could pivot the switch out to get a narrow view of its innards and insert the thin nozzle from a can of WD40, hoping for a lucky fix. The result was that the switch, when re-attached with its retaining screws, would now pivot toward me, something it never would do before. With the battery re-attached as well, that pivot action produced a high beam flash that also lit the beam indicator! I never knew I had a high beam flash in this old car! So, everything was fixed!? Not so much. The light switch on the dash wouldn't give me headlights at all despite the fact that it would give me interior lights and the other exterior ones. It was time to get out Dan Masters' guide to electronics, and as always with this manual, I now understand the circuitry and my remaining problem. When everything is working, the flash function of the dimmer switch takes voltage from a fuse to the high beams directly regardless of whether the light switch on the dash is set for headlights. When the dash switch is set for headlights the voltage is taken directly from the battery to the column switch that determines whether low or high beams are activated. In following Masters' troubleshooting steps, I found that my dash light switch was bad. It must have failed as I repeatedly flipped it off and on to test all the new LEDs going in! I removed it, verified with a meter that it was bad but managed to clean it up inside, and it now tests okay. Today I plan to spray some electronic contact cleaner (not just WD40) into the dimmer switch and hope that all of its settings will work okay after I put the dash switch back in. I'm sorry for the diversion into headlights. What I really want to know now is how to get those last two gauges illuminated with new LEDs. Tim -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dconnitt at fuse.net Wed Dec 1 10:11:01 2021 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Wed, 1 Dec 2021 12:11:01 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4A trunk hinge question In-Reply-To: <001101d7e6d2$ae631a50$0b294ef0$@yahoo.com> References: <001101d7e6d2$ae631a50$0b294ef0$@yahoo.com> Message-ID: Thanks! JB Weld it is! Dave Connitt Sent from my iPhone > On Dec 1, 2021, at 11:44 AM, Notakitcar wrote: > > ?Agree, JB Weld will do the job. > Bill B > TS30800L > > -----Original Message----- > From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of auprichard at uprichard.net > Sent: Wednesday, December 1, 2021 10:24 AM > To: 'Dave Connitt' ; 'Triumphs' > Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A trunk hinge question > > I have had this happen a few times. I have not had success with Locktite, but JB weld has worked. > > Andrew Uprichard > Jackson, Michigan > > -----Original Message----- > From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Dave Connitt > Sent: Wednesday, December 1, 2021 10:48 AM > To: Triumphs > Subject: [TR] TR4A trunk hinge question > > Hi all, > It?s been some time since I have posted on this list but here goes. > During the restoration of my TR4A, I had purchased a new set of hinges for the trunk which was about 10 years ago. > After noticing one hinge coming apart I found that the short threaded stud one that hinge actually pulled itself out of the hinge. > Two questions: > 1. Is this a common failure mode? > 2. If I used red Locktite or JB Weld to secure the studs would they stay put? > Thanks, > Dave Connitt > DavesTR4A.com > > Sent from my iPhone > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com > From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Wed Dec 1 10:24:31 2021 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Wed, 1 Dec 2021 17:24:31 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR4A trunk hinge question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1951735195.102566.1638379471712@mail.yahoo.com> 1. Is this a common failure mode?? yes. same as on the Tr3 hinges. 2. If I used red Locktite or JB Weld to secure the studs would they stay put? maybe! what i did was re tap the hole for a 7 mm screw with coarse thread. been ok so far. Frank? On Wednesday, December 1, 2021, 07:48:40 AM PST, Dave Connitt wrote: Hi all, It?s been some time since I have posted on this list but here goes. During the restoration of my TR4A, I had purchased a new set of hinges for the trunk which was about 10 years ago. After noticing one hinge coming apart I found that the short threaded stud one that hinge actually pulled itself out of the hinge. Two questions: 1. Is this a common failure mode? 2. If I used red Locktite or JB Weld to secure the studs would they stay put? Thanks, Dave Connitt DavesTR4A.com Sent from my iPhone ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrochlin at comcast.net Wed Dec 1 10:41:42 2021 From: rrochlin at comcast.net (Robert Rochlin) Date: Wed, 1 Dec 2021 12:41:42 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4A trunk hinge question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi Dave As I remember, I was able to do the bulb replacement by removing the glove box. If you need to replace the glove box the replacement from TRF fits perfectly as opposed to the Moss glove.box which was impossible to install. Best, Bob Sent from my iPhone > On Dec 1, 2021, at 12:12 PM, Dave Connitt wrote: > > ?Thanks! > JB Weld it is! > Dave Connitt > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Dec 1, 2021, at 11:44 AM, Notakitcar wrote: >> >> ?Agree, JB Weld will do the job. >> Bill B >> TS30800L >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of auprichard at uprichard.net >> Sent: Wednesday, December 1, 2021 10:24 AM >> To: 'Dave Connitt' ; 'Triumphs' >> Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A trunk hinge question >> >> I have had this happen a few times. I have not had success with Locktite, but JB weld has worked. >> >> Andrew Uprichard >> Jackson, Michigan >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Dave Connitt >> Sent: Wednesday, December 1, 2021 10:48 AM >> To: Triumphs >> Subject: [TR] TR4A trunk hinge question >> >> Hi all, >> It?s been some time since I have posted on this list but here goes. >> During the restoration of my TR4A, I had purchased a new set of hinges for the trunk which was about 10 years ago. >> After noticing one hinge coming apart I found that the short threaded stud one that hinge actually pulled itself out of the hinge. >> Two questions: >> 1. Is this a common failure mode? >> 2. If I used red Locktite or JB Weld to secure the studs would they stay put? >> Thanks, >> Dave Connitt >> DavesTR4A.com >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com >> > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rrochlin at comcast.net From trguy75 at gmail.com Wed Dec 1 10:51:14 2021 From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen) Date: Wed, 1 Dec 2021 12:51:14 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4A trunk hinge question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <51741A7E-7FB0-46E0-9DDA-04A3F922A4AA@gmail.com> Dave, A short while after installing a new trunk hinge, it broke. I believe it?s cheap construction that caused it to break. Mine broke in half. Sounds like yours not too bad and job weld to the rescue. Good luck. Jim Henningsen Ocala FL > On Dec 1, 2021, at 12:11 PM, Dave Connitt wrote: > > ?Thanks! > JB Weld it is! > Dave Connitt > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Dec 1, 2021, at 11:44 AM, Notakitcar wrote: >> >> ?Agree, JB Weld will do the job. >> Bill B >> TS30800L >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of auprichard at uprichard.net >> Sent: Wednesday, December 1, 2021 10:24 AM >> To: 'Dave Connitt' ; 'Triumphs' >> Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A trunk hinge question >> >> I have had this happen a few times. I have not had success with Locktite, but JB weld has worked. >> >> Andrew Uprichard >> Jackson, Michigan >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Dave Connitt >> Sent: Wednesday, December 1, 2021 10:48 AM >> To: Triumphs >> Subject: [TR] TR4A trunk hinge question >> >> Hi all, >> It?s been some time since I have posted on this list but here goes. >> During the restoration of my TR4A, I had purchased a new set of hinges for the trunk which was about 10 years ago. >> After noticing one hinge coming apart I found that the short threaded stud one that hinge actually pulled itself out of the hinge. >> Two questions: >> 1. Is this a common failure mode? >> 2. If I used red Locktite or JB Weld to secure the studs would they stay put? >> Thanks, >> Dave Connitt >> DavesTR4A.com >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com >> > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trguy75 at gmail.com From robertrudolphi at yahoo.com Wed Dec 1 12:13:48 2021 From: robertrudolphi at yahoo.com (robert rudolphi) Date: Wed, 1 Dec 2021 19:13:48 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR6: gauge LEDs and headlight switches In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1751063781.7243681.1638386028132@mail.yahoo.com> One thing I have heard is to go in through the ash tray but never tried it myself. Also I would highly recommend the Moss headlight relay kit if you have not already installed. Easy to hook up and pulls a lot of power away from the switches.? Robert On Wednesday, December 1, 2021, 11:53:00 AM EST, Tim Gaines wrote: ?? Despite some difficulties I'm making progress in installing LiteZupp LEDs into the instruments in my 1974 LHD TR6. The difficulties stem from my (possibly foolish) decision to do the job without removing the dash. With the help of a couple of long-reach needle nose pliers I've replaced the two illumination bulbs in each of the speedo and tach and the single ones in the temperature and oil pressure gauges, not without several scrapes to my fingers. However, I really don't think that will work with the fuel and temperature gauges on the right. There are just too many obstacles, so something is going to have to be removed, likely either the radio or the glove box or both. It looks to me as if the glove box space would provide the best access, but I have read of some difficulties in getting it back in place after removal. I would appreciate any advice from those who have done these bulb replacements or taken out the glove box. In the process of doing this bulb job I came across another problem. The new LED for the high beam indicator just wouldn't light, and it didn't matter which of the new LEDs I put in. So I went back to the old incandescent bulb and it didn't light either despite having worked a short time earlier. After checking the wiring to the socket and finding no issues I decided that the problem must be the iffy headlight dimmer switch on the right side of the steering column. I say "iffy" because occasionally I had found that switching to high beam left me with no headlights at all! I took off the plastic cowlings and got access to the switch though I couldn't pull it out because its wires are clamped within a channel under the steering column. Nevertheless, I could pivot the switch out to get a narrow view of its innards and insert the thin nozzle from a can of WD40, hoping for a lucky fix. The result was that the switch, when re-attached with its retaining screws, would now pivot toward me, something it never would do before. With the battery re-attached as well, that pivot action produced a high beam flash that also lit the beam indicator! I never knew I had a high beam flash in this old car! So, everything was fixed!? Not so much. The light switch on the dash wouldn't give me headlights at all despite the fact that it would give me interior lights and the other exterior ones.? It was time to get out Dan Masters' guide to electronics, and as always with this manual, I now understand the circuitry and my remaining problem. When everything is working, the flash function of the dimmer switch takes voltage from a fuse to the high beams directly regardless of whether the light switch on the dash is set for headlights. When the dash switch is set for headlights the voltage is taken directly from the battery to the column switch that determines whether low or high beams are activated. In following Masters' troubleshooting steps, I found that my dash light switch was bad. It must have failed as I repeatedly flipped it off and on to test all the new LEDs going in! I removed it, verified with a meter that it was bad but managed to clean it up inside, and it now tests okay. Today I plan to spray some electronic contact cleaner (not just WD40) into the dimmer switch and hope that all of its settings will work okay after I put the dash switch back in. I'm sorry for the diversion into headlights. What I really want to know now is how to get those last two gauges illuminated with new LEDs. Tim? ? ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs??http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/robertrudolphi at yahoo.com From dave at ranteer.com Wed Dec 1 12:28:50 2021 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave northrup) Date: Wed, 1 Dec 2021 19:28:50 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR6: gauge LEDs and headlight switches In-Reply-To: <1751063781.7243681.1638386028132@mail.yahoo.com> References: , <1751063781.7243681.1638386028132@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: If he is using LED headlights that is unnecessary -------- Original message -------- From: robert rudolphi Date: 12/1/21 1:14 PM (GMT-06:00) To: triumphs at autox.team.net, Tim Gaines Subject: Re: [TR] TR6: gauge LEDs and headlight switches One thing I have heard is to go in through the ash tray but never tried it myself. Also I would highly recommend the Moss headlight relay kit if you have not already installed. Easy to hook up and pulls a lot of power away from the switches. Robert On Wednesday, December 1, 2021, 11:53:00 AM EST, Tim Gaines wrote: Despite some difficulties I'm making progress in installing LiteZupp LEDs into the instruments in my 1974 LHD TR6. The difficulties stem from my (possibly foolish) decision to do the job without removing the dash. With the help of a couple of long-reach needle nose pliers I've replaced the two illumination bulbs in each of the speedo and tach and the single ones in the temperature and oil pressure gauges, not without several scrapes to my fingers. However, I really don't think that will work with the fuel and temperature gauges on the right. There are just too many obstacles, so something is going to have to be removed, likely either the radio or the glove box or both. It looks to me as if the glove box space would provide the best access, but I have read of some difficulties in getting it back in place after removal. I would appreciate any advice from those who have done these bulb replacements or taken out the glove box. In the process of doing this bulb job I came across another problem. The new LED for the high beam indicator just wouldn't light, and it didn't matter which of the new LEDs I put in. So I went back to the old incandescent bulb and it didn't light either despite having worked a short time earlier. After checking the wiring to the socket and finding no issues I decided that the problem must be the iffy headlight dimmer switch on the right side of the steering column. I say "iffy" because occasionally I had found that switching to high beam left me with no headlights at all! I took off the plastic cowlings and got access to the switch though I couldn't pull it out because its wires are clamped within a channel under the steering column. Nevertheless, I could pivot the switch out to get a narrow view of its innards and insert the thin nozzle from a can of WD40, hoping for a lucky fix. The result was that the switch, when re-attached with its retaining screws, would now pivot toward me, something it never would do before. With the battery re-attached as well, that pivot action produced a high beam flash that also lit the beam indicator! I never knew I had a high beam flash in this old car! So, everything was fixed!? Not so much. The light switch on the dash wouldn't give me headlights at all despite the fact that it would give me interior lights and the other exterior ones. It was time to get out Dan Masters' guide to electronics, and as always with this manual, I now understand the circuitry and my remaining problem. When everything is working, the flash function of the dimmer switch takes voltage from a fuse to the high beams directly regardless of whether the light switch on the dash is set for headlights. When the dash switch is set for headlights the voltage is taken directly from the battery to the column switch that determines whether low or high beams are activated. In following Masters' troubleshooting steps, I found that my dash light switch was bad. It must have failed as I repeatedly flipped it off and on to test all the new LEDs going in! I removed it, verified with a meter that it was bad but managed to clean it up inside, and it now tests okay. Today I plan to spray some electronic contact cleaner (not just WD40) into the dimmer switch and hope that all of its settings will work okay after I put the dash switch back in. I'm sorry for the diversion into headlights. What I really want to know now is how to get those last two gauges illuminated with new LEDs. Tim ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/robertrudolphi at yahoo.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave at ranteer.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mtgaines at presby.edu Wed Dec 1 13:33:25 2021 From: mtgaines at presby.edu (Tim Gaines) Date: Wed, 01 Dec 2021 20:33:25 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR6: gauge LEDs and headlight switches In-Reply-To: <1751063781.7243681.1638386028132@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1751063781.7243681.1638386028132@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: It just dawned on me, after a couple of hours of fiddling and scraping my fingers again, that you can do the top two small gauges much more easily through the ashtray! But that only came to me after piling up a few bits INSIDE the ashtray for safe keeping! And then, here is that suggestion waiting for me from Robert. Yes it does work, and I am so relieved to have it done. ------ Original Message ------ From: "robert rudolphi" To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" ; "Tim Gaines" Sent: 12/1/2021 2:13:48 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR6: gauge LEDs and headlight switches >One thing I have heard is to go in through the ash tray but never tried it myself. Also I would highly recommend the Moss headlight relay kit if you have not already installed. Easy to hook up and pulls a lot of power away from the switches. > >Robert > > > > > > >On Wednesday, December 1, 2021, 11:53:00 AM EST, Tim Gaines wrote: > > > > > > >Despite some difficulties I'm making progress in installing LiteZupp LEDs into the instruments in my 1974 LHD TR6. The difficulties stem from my (possibly foolish) decision to do the job without removing the dash. With the help of a couple of long-reach needle nose pliers I've replaced the two illumination bulbs in each of the speedo and tach and the single ones in the temperature and oil pressure gauges, not without several scrapes to my fingers. However, I really don't think that will work with the fuel and temperature gauges on the right. There are just too many obstacles, so something is going to have to be removed, likely either the radio or the glove box or both. It looks to me as if the glove box space would provide the best access, but I have read of some difficulties in getting it back in place after removal. I would appreciate any advice from those who have done these bulb replacements or taken out the glove box. > >In the process of doing this bulb job I came across another problem. The new LED for the high beam indicator just wouldn't light, and it didn't matter which of the new LEDs I put in. So I went back to the old incandescent bulb and it didn't light either despite having worked a short time earlier. After checking the wiring to the socket and finding no issues I decided that the problem must be the iffy headlight dimmer switch on the right side of the steering column. I say "iffy" because occasionally I had found that switching to high beam left me with no headlights at all! I took off the plastic cowlings and got access to the switch though I couldn't pull it out because its wires are clamped within a channel under the steering column. Nevertheless, I could pivot the switch out to get a narrow view of its innards and insert the thin nozzle from a can of WD40, hoping for a lucky fix. The result was that the switch, when re-attached with its retaining screws, would now pivot toward me, something it never would do before. With the battery re-attached as well, that pivot action produced a high beam flash that also lit the beam indicator! I never knew I had a high beam flash in this old car! So, everything was fixed!? Not so much. The light switch on the dash wouldn't give me headlights at all despite the fact that it would give me interior lights and the other exterior ones. > >It was time to get out Dan Masters' guide to electronics, and as always with this manual, I now understand the circuitry and my remaining problem. When everything is working, the flash function of the dimmer switch takes voltage from a fuse to the high beams directly regardless of whether the light switch on the dash is set for headlights. When the dash switch is set for headlights the voltage is taken directly from the battery to the column switch that determines whether low or high beams are activated. In following Masters' troubleshooting steps, I found that my dash light switch was bad. It must have failed as I repeatedly flipped it off and on to test all the new LEDs going in! I removed it, verified with a meter that it was bad but managed to clean it up inside, and it now tests okay. Today I plan to spray some electronic contact cleaner (not just WD40) into the dimmer switch and hope that all of its settings will work okay after I put the dash switch back in. > >I'm sorry for the diversion into headlights. What I really want to know now is how to get those last two gauges illuminated with new LEDs. > >Tim >** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/robertrudolphi at yahoo.com From cliff_hansen at outlook.com Wed Dec 1 18:20:55 2021 From: cliff_hansen at outlook.com (Cliff Hansen) Date: Thu, 2 Dec 2021 01:20:55 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR4A trunk hinge question In-Reply-To: <51741A7E-7FB0-46E0-9DDA-04A3F922A4AA@gmail.com> References: <51741A7E-7FB0-46E0-9DDA-04A3F922A4AA@gmail.com> Message-ID: Dave, Same thing happened to me with ?new? hinges, bought them years ago, lasted about 6 months on the car. Cliff Sent from Mail for Windows From: Jim Henningsen Sent: Wednesday, December 1, 2021 10:52 AM To: Dave Connitt Cc: Triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A trunk hinge question Dave, A short while after installing a new trunk hinge, it broke. I believe it?s cheap construction that caused it to break. Mine broke in half. Sounds like yours not too bad and job weld to the rescue. Good luck. Jim Henningsen Ocala FL > On Dec 1, 2021, at 12:11 PM, Dave Connitt wrote: > > ?Thanks! > JB Weld it is! > Dave Connitt > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Dec 1, 2021, at 11:44 AM, Notakitcar wrote: >> >> ?Agree, JB Weld will do the job. >> Bill B >> TS30800L >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of auprichard at uprichard.net >> Sent: Wednesday, December 1, 2021 10:24 AM >> To: 'Dave Connitt' ; 'Triumphs' >> Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A trunk hinge question >> >> I have had this happen a few times. I have not had success with Locktite, but JB weld has worked. >> >> Andrew Uprichard >> Jackson, Michigan >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Dave Connitt >> Sent: Wednesday, December 1, 2021 10:48 AM >> To: Triumphs >> Subject: [TR] TR4A trunk hinge question >> >> Hi all, >> It?s been some time since I have posted on this list but here goes. >> During the restoration of my TR4A, I had purchased a new set of hinges for the trunk which was about 10 years ago. >> After noticing one hinge coming apart I found that the short threaded stud one that hinge actually pulled itself out of the hinge. >> Two questions: >> 1. Is this a common failure mode? >> 2. If I used red Locktite or JB Weld to secure the studs would they stay put? >> Thanks, >> Dave Connitt >> DavesTR4A.com >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com >> > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trguy75 at gmail.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cliff_hansen at outlook.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From grglmn at gmail.com Wed Dec 1 19:00:34 2021 From: grglmn at gmail.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Wed, 1 Dec 2021 20:00:34 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR4A trunk hinge question In-Reply-To: References: <51741A7E-7FB0-46E0-9DDA-04A3F922A4AA@gmail.com> Message-ID: You guys are very ambitious. I had a trunk hinge that tended to pop out and I just popped it back in when I noticed it coming adrift. Over and over again. For many years. Greg Lemon TR250 On Wed, Dec 1, 2021, 7:23 PM Cliff Hansen wrote: > Dave, > > > > Same thing happened to me with ?new? hinges, bought them years ago, lasted > about 6 months on the car. > > > > Cliff > > > > > > Sent from Mail for > Windows > > > > *From: *Jim Henningsen > *Sent: *Wednesday, December 1, 2021 10:52 AM > *To: *Dave Connitt > *Cc: *Triumphs > *Subject: *Re: [TR] TR4A trunk hinge question > > > > Dave, > A short while after installing a new trunk hinge, it broke. I believe > it?s cheap construction that caused it to break. Mine broke in half. > Sounds like yours not too bad and job weld to the rescue. Good luck. > Jim Henningsen > Ocala FL > > > On Dec 1, 2021, at 12:11 PM, Dave Connitt wrote: > > > > ?Thanks! > > JB Weld it is! > > Dave Connitt > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > >> On Dec 1, 2021, at 11:44 AM, Notakitcar wrote: > >> > >> ?Agree, JB Weld will do the job. > >> Bill B > >> TS30800L > >> > >> -----Original Message----- > >> From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > ] On Behalf Of auprichard at uprichard.net > >> Sent: Wednesday, December 1, 2021 10:24 AM > >> To: 'Dave Connitt' ; 'Triumphs' < > triumphs at autox.team.net> > >> Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A trunk hinge question > >> > >> I have had this happen a few times. I have not had success with > Locktite, but JB weld has worked. > >> > >> Andrew Uprichard > >> Jackson, Michigan > >> > >> -----Original Message----- > >> From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Dave > Connitt > >> Sent: Wednesday, December 1, 2021 10:48 AM > >> To: Triumphs > >> Subject: [TR] TR4A trunk hinge question > >> > >> Hi all, > >> It?s been some time since I have posted on this list but here goes. > >> During the restoration of my TR4A, I had purchased a new set of hinges > for the trunk which was about 10 years ago. > >> After noticing one hinge coming apart I found that the short threaded > stud one that hinge actually pulled itself out of the hinge. > >> Two questions: > >> 1. Is this a common failure mode? > >> 2. If I used red Locktite or JB Weld to secure the studs would they > stay put? > >> Thanks, > >> Dave Connitt > >> DavesTR4A.com > >> > >> Sent from my iPhone > >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > >> > >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > >> > >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net > >> > >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > >> > >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > >> > >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com > >> > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trguy75 at gmail.com > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cliff_hansen at outlook.com > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/grglmn at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From auprichard at uprichard.net Thu Dec 2 07:52:43 2021 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (auprichard at uprichard.net) Date: Thu, 2 Dec 2021 09:52:43 -0500 Subject: [TR] Oh no! Message-ID: <006501d7e78c$433edd30$c9bc9790$@uprichard.net> A guy posted this on one of the TR sites on Facebook. Apparently, his TR250 fell off the hoist. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: TR250.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 847922 bytes Desc: not available URL: From tjwakeman at gmail.com Thu Dec 2 08:16:51 2021 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Thu, 2 Dec 2021 07:16:51 -0800 Subject: [TR] Oh no! In-Reply-To: <006501d7e78c$433edd30$c9bc9790$@uprichard.net> References: <006501d7e78c$433edd30$c9bc9790$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: On 12/2/21 6:52 AM, auprichard at uprichard.net wrote: > > A guy posted this on one of the TR sites on Facebook.? Apparently, his > TR250 fell off the hoist. > That makes me want to run out & hug my TR3. A TR250 with overdrive and surrey top?? The one Triumph I would want to share the garage with my TR3. Aggggh, the thing of nightmares. TeriAnn -- Book - The Essential Guide to Overland Travel in the United States and Canada 2 years to write and 38 years of travel and camping to learn what to write *Because the world beckons and life waits for no one* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Thu Dec 2 08:22:17 2021 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Thu, 2 Dec 2021 15:22:17 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Oh no! In-Reply-To: <006501d7e78c$433edd30$c9bc9790$@uprichard.net> References: <006501d7e78c$433edd30$c9bc9790$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <400942562.2597679.1638458537970@mail.yahoo.com> Ouch! Dave -----Original Message----- From: auprichard at uprichard.net To: 'Triumphs' Sent: Thu, Dec 2, 2021 8:52 am Subject: [TR] Oh no! ?A guy posted this on one of the TR sites on Facebook.? Apparently, his TR250 fell off the hoist.** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cliff_hansen at outlook.com Thu Dec 2 13:04:46 2021 From: cliff_hansen at outlook.com (Cliff Hansen) Date: Thu, 2 Dec 2021 20:04:46 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR4A trunk hinge question In-Reply-To: References: <51741A7E-7FB0-46E0-9DDA-04A3F922A4AA@gmail.com> Message-ID: In my case, it was the hinge pin that fell out while driving. One of the loops that holds the pin is cracked. I cut a section of a machine screw and pushed it into the hinge. Been that way for a year now, while a replacement hinge just sits on my shelf until I ?get to it.? Cliff Sent from Mail for Windows From: Greg Lemon Sent: Wednesday, December 1, 2021 7:00 PM To: Cliff Hansen Cc: Triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A trunk hinge question You guys are very ambitious. I had a trunk hinge that tended to pop out and I just popped it back in when I noticed it coming adrift. Over and over again. For many years. Greg Lemon TR250 On Wed, Dec 1, 2021, 7:23 PM Cliff Hansen > wrote: Dave, Same thing happened to me with ?new? hinges, bought them years ago, lasted about 6 months on the car. Cliff Sent from Mail for Windows From: Jim Henningsen Sent: Wednesday, December 1, 2021 10:52 AM To: Dave Connitt Cc: Triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A trunk hinge question Dave, A short while after installing a new trunk hinge, it broke. I believe it?s cheap construction that caused it to break. Mine broke in half. Sounds like yours not too bad and job weld to the rescue. Good luck. Jim Henningsen Ocala FL > On Dec 1, 2021, at 12:11 PM, Dave Connitt > wrote: > > ?Thanks! > JB Weld it is! > Dave Connitt > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Dec 1, 2021, at 11:44 AM, Notakitcar > wrote: >> >> ?Agree, JB Weld will do the job. >> Bill B >> TS30800L >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of auprichard at uprichard.net >> Sent: Wednesday, December 1, 2021 10:24 AM >> To: 'Dave Connitt' >; 'Triumphs' > >> Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A trunk hinge question >> >> I have had this happen a few times. I have not had success with Locktite, but JB weld has worked. >> >> Andrew Uprichard >> Jackson, Michigan >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Triumphs > On Behalf Of Dave Connitt >> Sent: Wednesday, December 1, 2021 10:48 AM >> To: Triumphs > >> Subject: [TR] TR4A trunk hinge question >> >> Hi all, >> It?s been some time since I have posted on this list but here goes. >> During the restoration of my TR4A, I had purchased a new set of hinges for the trunk which was about 10 years ago. >> After noticing one hinge coming apart I found that the short threaded stud one that hinge actually pulled itself out of the hinge. >> Two questions: >> 1. Is this a common failure mode? >> 2. If I used red Locktite or JB Weld to secure the studs would they stay put? >> Thanks, >> Dave Connitt >> DavesTR4A.com >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com >> > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trguy75 at gmail.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cliff_hansen at outlook.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/grglmn at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From notakitcar at yahoo.com Thu Dec 2 14:36:53 2021 From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher) Date: Thu, 2 Dec 2021 15:36:53 -0600 Subject: [TR] Oh no! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2AA671B1-C828-41ED-8221-37EEDC98BA01@yahoo.com> TeriAnn, call him,it might go cheap! Bill ?Last night I saw upon the stair, A little man who wasn't there, He wasn't there again today Oh, how I wish he'd go away?.... Mearns On Dec 2, 2021, at 9:17 AM, TeriAnn J. Wakeman wrote: ? On 12/2/21 6:52 AM, auprichard at uprichard.net wrote: > > A guy posted this on one of the TR sites on Facebook. Apparently, his TR250 fell off the hoist. That makes me want to run out & hug my TR3. A TR250 with overdrive and surrey top? The one Triumph I would want to share the garage with my TR3. Aggggh, the thing of nightmares. TeriAnn -- Book - The Essential Guide to Overland Travel in the United States and Canada 2 years to write and 38 years of travel and camping to learn what to write Because the world beckons and life waits for no one ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fishplate at gmail.com Thu Dec 2 15:31:08 2021 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Thu, 2 Dec 2021 17:31:08 -0500 Subject: [TR] Oh no! In-Reply-To: <006501d7e78c$433edd30$c9bc9790$@uprichard.net> References: <006501d7e78c$433edd30$c9bc9790$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: I almost did this with my car when I worked at a dealership. Raised it up at the end of the day for a quick oil change...three feet off the ground and it started tipping. Got it back on the ground pretty quickly.... On Thu, Dec 2, 2021, 10:00 wrote: > > > A guy posted this on one of the TR sites on Facebook. Apparently, his > TR250 fell off the hoist. > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fishplate at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ptegler at verizon.net Thu Dec 2 19:20:50 2021 From: ptegler at verizon.net (Paul Tegler) Date: Thu, 2 Dec 2021 21:20:50 -0500 Subject: [TR] Oh no! In-Reply-To: <006501d7e78c$433edd30$c9bc9790$@uprichard.net> References: <006501d7e78c$433edd30$c9bc9790$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: BIG bummer. I've never trusted two post lifts.... seen this happen WAY too many times do a google? for vette falls off two post lift.? One dealership destroyed a brand new vette... fell, then the second leg ripped right through the sides of the car dealership toolmonkey didn't center the weight (rear engine) have seen someone torque hard on a car and pull one off a lift. scary ptegler On 12/2/2021 9:52 AM, auprichard at uprichard.net wrote: > > A guy posted this on one of the TR sites on Facebook.? Apparently, his > TR250 fell off the hoist. > > > **triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net -- Paul Tegler ptegler at verizon.net www.teglerizer.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From triumphstag at gmail.com Fri Dec 3 09:21:06 2021 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy) Date: Fri, 3 Dec 2021 08:21:06 -0800 Subject: [TR] With Hagerty insurance going public will be get screwed Message-ID: With all public companies growth is important for the share holders. Will that mean if we have a claim, will we who insure our cars with them, get screwed over? Sujit -- Sujit Roy Cupertino, California https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Fri Dec 3 09:57:03 2021 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Fri, 3 Dec 2021 16:57:03 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] With Hagerty insurance going public will be get screwed In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <72364455.2617503.1638550623728@mail.yahoo.com> silly boy!of course we will. Frank On Friday, December 3, 2021, 08:39:08 AM PST, Sujit Roy wrote: With all public companies?growth is important for the share holders. Will that mean if we have a claim, will we who insure our cars with them, get screwed over? Sujit -- Sujit Roy Cupertino, California https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From smithwm845 at gmail.com Fri Dec 3 20:48:49 2021 From: smithwm845 at gmail.com (William Smith) Date: Fri, 3 Dec 2021 22:48:49 -0500 Subject: [TR] Hagerty Going Public Message-ID: As a retired public company finance guy, I agree that growth is important to the public shareholders. However equally, if not more important, is net income and earnings per share as they relate to market value per share and dividends. Here is where the policy holders are at risk. One of the many factors contributing to net income & earnings/share is cost. Another is pricing. A major cost for insurance companies is claims cost. So, what can an insurance company do to reduce claims cost? ....... minimize claim payments! One of the ways it can do that is to tighten it's underwriting requirements; ie., making it tougher to get insurance in the first place. Another, which may be more important to us policy holders, is to be more strict in paying claims; e.g., more challenging of claim amounts, or even outright denials. (How many of us have had difficulties from time-to-time getting our health insurance claims paid?) As to pricing, of course they can increase premiums. However, absent price fixing collusion with other carriers, there is some competitive pressure to limit that. Summing up, for the time being, I'll give them the benefit of the doubt ...... but we'll have to watch our renewal premiums and claim experiences, and hope for the best. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ptegler at verizon.net Fri Dec 3 22:51:49 2021 From: ptegler at verizon.net (Paul Tegler) Date: Sat, 4 Dec 2021 00:51:49 -0500 Subject: [TR] Hagerty Going Public In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <9585df76-3e25-3345-884a-1eef3f101bed@verizon.net> ...was just watching a TV racing program (at Road Atlanta no less where I've personally done laps)? ..bunch of Porsche classes ...9 hr endurance race.. The entire race team was Hagerty! Bunch of youtube style 'sponsor' messages sprinkled all through it, done by the Hagerty drivers. Saw the new CEO talking about various aspects of racing, costs and what he wanted the company to support in the way of getting more talent behind the wheel in various race organizations.? So yep...could see up front, company monies now headed towards race team support. I'd been considering Hagerty for awhile for my stable.? Decision was made for me after watching that show and listening to the CEO. One less ins. company to ever consider here.? :-( ptegler On 12/3/2021 10:48 PM, William Smith wrote: > As a retired public company finance guy, I agree that growth is > important to the public shareholders.? However equally,? if not more > important, is net income and? earnings per share as they relate to > market value per share and dividends. Here is where the policy holders > are at risk. One of the many factors contributing to net income & > earnings/share is cost. Another is pricing. > > A major cost for insurance companies is claims cost.? So, what can an > insurance company do to reduce claims cost? ....... minimize claim > payments!? One of the ways it can do that is to tighten it's > underwriting requirements; ie., making it tougher to get insurance in > the first place. Another, which may be more important to us policy > holders, is to be more strict in paying claims; e.g., more challenging > of claim amounts, or even outright denials. (How many of us have had > difficulties from time-to-time getting our health insurance claims paid?) > > As to pricing, of course they can increase premiums. However, absent > price fixing collusion with other carriers, there is some competitive > pressure to limit that. > > Summing up, for the time being,? I'll give them the benefit of the > doubt ...... but we'll have to watch our renewal premiums and claim > experiences, and hope for the best. > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net -- Paul Tegler ptegler at verizon.net www.teglerizer.com From joemato at sbcglobal.net Sat Dec 4 12:45:57 2021 From: joemato at sbcglobal.net (JOSEPH MATO) Date: Sat, 4 Dec 2021 19:45:57 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 14, Issue 251 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1091627086.4317415.1638647157698@mail.yahoo.com> The last I heard he was trying to run for the Senate in MI. Joe Mato62 Wood RoadRedding, CT 06896917 232 1555 On Saturday, December 4, 2021, 02:02:37 PM EST, wrote: Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to ??? triumphs at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit ??? http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to ??? triumphs-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at ??? triumphs-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..." Today's Topics: ? 1. Re: Hagerty Going Public (William Smith) ? 2. Re: Hagerty Going Public (Paul Tegler) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Fri, 3 Dec 2021 22:48:49 -0500 From: William Smith To: Triumph List Subject: Re: [TR] Hagerty Going Public Message-ID: ??? Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" As a retired public company finance guy, I agree that growth is important to the public shareholders.? However equally,? if not more important, is net income and? earnings per share as they relate to market value per share and dividends.? Here is where the policy holders are at risk. One of the many factors contributing to net income & earnings/share is cost. Another is pricing. A major cost for insurance companies is claims cost.? So, what can an insurance company do to reduce claims cost? ....... minimize claim payments!? One of the ways it can do that is to tighten it's underwriting requirements; ie., making it tougher to get insurance in the first place. Another, which may be more important to us policy holders, is to be more strict in paying claims; e.g., more challenging of claim amounts, or even outright denials. (How many of us have had difficulties from time-to-time getting our health insurance claims paid?) As to pricing, of course they can increase premiums. However, absent price fixing collusion with other carriers, there is some competitive pressure to limit that. Summing up, for the time being,? I'll give them the benefit of the doubt ...... but we'll have to watch our renewal premiums and claim experiences, and hope for the best. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Sat, 4 Dec 2021 00:51:49 -0500 From: Paul Tegler To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Hagerty Going Public Message-ID: <9585df76-3e25-3345-884a-1eef3f101bed at verizon.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed ...was just watching a TV racing program (at Road Atlanta no less where I've personally done laps)? ..bunch of Porsche classes ...9 hr endurance race.. The entire race team was Hagerty! Bunch of youtube style 'sponsor' messages sprinkled all through it, done by the Hagerty drivers. Saw the new CEO talking about various aspects of racing, costs and what he wanted the company to support in the way of getting more talent behind the wheel in various race organizations.? So yep...could see up front, company monies now headed towards race team support. I'd been considering Hagerty for awhile for my stable.? Decision was made for me after watching that show and listening to the CEO. One less ins. company to ever consider here.? :-( ptegler On 12/3/2021 10:48 PM, William Smith wrote: > As a retired public company finance guy, I agree that growth is > important to the public shareholders.? However equally,? if not more > important, is net income and? earnings per share as they relate to > market value per share and dividends. Here is where the policy holders > are at risk. One of the many factors contributing to net income & > earnings/share is cost. Another is pricing. > > A major cost for insurance companies is claims cost.? So, what can an > insurance company do to reduce claims cost? ....... minimize claim > payments!? One of the ways it can do that is to tighten it's > underwriting requirements; ie., making it tougher to get insurance in > the first place. Another, which may be more important to us policy > holders, is to be more strict in paying claims; e.g., more challenging > of claim amounts, or even outright denials. (How many of us have had > difficulties from time-to-time getting our health insurance claims paid?) > > As to pricing, of course they can increase premiums. However, absent > price fixing collusion with other carriers, there is some competitive > pressure to limit that. > > Summing up, for the time being,? I'll give them the benefit of the > doubt ...... but we'll have to watch our renewal premiums and claim > experiences, and hope for the best. > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net -- Paul Tegler ptegler at verizon.net? www.teglerizer.com ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs ------------------------------ End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 14, Issue 251 ***************************************** -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Wed Dec 8 10:53:28 2021 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Wed, 8 Dec 2021 17:53:28 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3 Steering box rebuilder References: <266941813.3300014.1638986008620.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <266941813.3300014.1638986008620@mail.yahoo.com> Can anyone recommend a good TR3 steering box rebuilder? Thanks Dave -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From lherault at verizon.net Wed Dec 8 13:08:10 2021 From: lherault at verizon.net (Ron L'Herault) Date: Wed, 8 Dec 2021 15:08:10 -0500 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 14, Issue 253 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000e01d7ec6f$531d8ed0$f958ac70$@verizon.net> Ask the folks at Roadster Factory. If they don't do it, they may know someone who does. Ron L -----Original Message----- 1. TR3 Steering box rebuilder (DAVID MASSEY) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Wed, 8 Dec 2021 17:53:28 +0000 (UTC) From: DAVID MASSEY Can anyone recommend a good TR3 steering box rebuilder? Thanks Dave From guy.huggins at icloud.com Sat Dec 11 16:28:57 2021 From: guy.huggins at icloud.com (Guy Huggins) Date: Sat, 11 Dec 2021 17:28:57 -0600 Subject: [TR] 1965 TR4A - Looking to drill out a stud hole in block. Need recommendations on a drill guide/jig. Message-ID: Howdy All, As part the head gasket replacement project, I need to address a wallowed-out and stripped cylinder head stud hole in the block. (If you were standing on the manifold side of the engine, it would be the one furtherest to the front, on the manifold side.) A stud goes in straight up and down until the top of the threads are even with the block, but it wiggles like hell. As you tighten the stud down further, the wiggle starts to go away, but the whole thing starts to cant back toward the rear of the block. This make it impossible to slide the head down over the canted stud. To fix this I intend to install a coiled insert. (drill just 1/32? oversized, tap, install insert). I am hoping that someone from the list knows of a drilling jig/guide for the drilling phase. I know better than to attempt drilling out cast iron without a steadying device of some sort. Any and all tips and advice are welcome. The hole is 1 5/16? deep, and the threads of the stud measure 3/4?. It is basically threaded top to bottom. Thanks in advance. I hate it when you have to fix the unknown thing to fix the known thing. Kind Regards, Guy D. Huggins guy.huggins at icloud.com 817.454.6415 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dconnitt at fuse.net Mon Dec 13 03:26:39 2021 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Mon, 13 Dec 2021 05:26:39 -0500 Subject: [TR] 1965 TR4A - Looking to drill out a stud hole in block. Need recommendations on a drill guide/jig. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3B228F06-73B0-47A7-B42E-EDC1B4E1124B@fuse.net> Hello Guy, That is a tough one. Have you considered talking this over with the machinist that did your cylinder head as he may have come across this type of issue before. I agree with you that locating and holding the X, Y and Z positions of the repair is critical. Best of luck to you. Dave Connitt Sent from my iPhone > On Dec 11, 2021, at 6:35 PM, Guy Huggins wrote: > > ?Howdy All, > > As part the head gasket replacement project, I need to address a wallowed-out and stripped cylinder head stud hole in the block. > (If you were standing on the manifold side of the engine, it would be the one furtherest to the front, on the manifold side.) > > A stud goes in straight up and down until the top of the threads are even with the block, but it wiggles like hell. > As you tighten the stud down further, the wiggle starts to go away, but the whole thing starts to cant back toward the rear of the block. > This make it impossible to slide the head down over the canted stud. > > To fix this I intend to install a coiled insert. (drill just 1/32? oversized, tap, install insert). > I am hoping that someone from the list knows of a drilling jig/guide for the drilling phase. > I know better than to attempt drilling out cast iron without a steadying device of some sort. > > Any and all tips and advice are welcome. > > The hole is 1 5/16? deep, and the threads of the stud measure 3/4?. > It is basically threaded top to bottom. > > Thanks in advance. > I hate it when you have to fix the unknown thing to fix the known thing. > > > Kind Regards, > > Guy D. Huggins > guy.huggins at icloud.com > 817.454.6415 > > > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dconnitt at fuse.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fishplate at gmail.com Mon Dec 13 04:28:15 2021 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Mon, 13 Dec 2021 06:28:15 -0500 Subject: [TR] 1965 TR4A - Looking to drill out a stud hole in block. Need recommendations on a drill guide/jig. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I've been thinking of a flat plate with a tube welded to it. Tube has the ID of the drill you intend to use. Put holes in the plate such that it can be bolted to the good holes in the block. Length of tube determines depth of hole. Kind of expensive for a solution you only need once.... If you had some help, a couple of machinist squares could guide you, and tape on the bit controls depth. If you're slightly off, you put that stud in after the head is on. On Sat, Dec 11, 2021, 18:35 Guy Huggins wrote: > Howdy All, > > As part the head gasket replacement project, I need to address a > wallowed-out and stripped cylinder head stud hole in the block. > (If you were standing on the manifold side of the engine, it would be the > one furtherest to the front, on the manifold side.) > > A stud goes in straight up and down until the top of the threads are even > with the block, but it wiggles like hell. > As you tighten the stud down further, the wiggle starts to go away, but > the whole thing starts to cant back toward the rear of the block. > This make it impossible to slide the head down over the canted stud. > > To fix this I intend to install a coiled insert. (drill just 1/32? > oversized, tap, install insert). > I am hoping that someone from the list knows of a drilling jig/guide for > the drilling phase. > I know better than to attempt drilling out cast iron without a steadying > device of some sort. > > Any and all tips and advice are welcome. > > The hole is 1 5/16? deep, and the threads of the stud measure 3/4?. > It is basically threaded top to bottom. > > Thanks in advance. > I hate it when you have to fix the unknown thing to fix the known thing. > > > Kind Regards, > > Guy D. Huggins > guy.huggins at icloud.com > 817.454.6415 > > > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fishplate at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From deruiterville at hotmail.com Mon Dec 13 07:08:07 2021 From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter) Date: Mon, 13 Dec 2021 14:08:07 +0000 Subject: [TR] 1965 TR4A - Looking to drill out a stud hole in block. Need recommendations on a drill guide/jig. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Guy- I don't want to sound too doom and gloomy, but have you ruled out a cracked block at that location? That is a common spot for one, usually from someone in the past who pulled the engine by the studs. At least I had an engine like that. If you haven't done so, take a very good look at the inside edge of the threaded hole. If you see a crack, that helicoil trick likely won't work. If you are convinced it is not cracked, possibly another solution would be to take advantage of the deeper hole that you've measured and get a shop to extend the threads of a longer head bolt. One of the inside longer ones might work - then shorten the other end to fit. The puzzling part is why does the stud cant to the rear - that doesn't sound good. Randy ________________________________ From: Triumphs on behalf of Guy Huggins Sent: Saturday, December 11, 2021 5:28 PM To: Triumph Mailing List Subject: [TR] 1965 TR4A - Looking to drill out a stud hole in block. Need recommendations on a drill guide/jig. Howdy All, As part the head gasket replacement project, I need to address a wallowed-out and stripped cylinder head stud hole in the block. (If you were standing on the manifold side of the engine, it would be the one furtherest to the front, on the manifold side.) A stud goes in straight up and down until the top of the threads are even with the block, but it wiggles like hell. As you tighten the stud down further, the wiggle starts to go away, but the whole thing starts to cant back toward the rear of the block. This make it impossible to slide the head down over the canted stud. To fix this I intend to install a coiled insert. (drill just 1/32? oversized, tap, install insert). I am hoping that someone from the list knows of a drilling jig/guide for the drilling phase. I know better than to attempt drilling out cast iron without a steadying device of some sort. Any and all tips and advice are welcome. The hole is 1 5/16? deep, and the threads of the stud measure 3/4?. It is basically threaded top to bottom. Thanks in advance. I hate it when you have to fix the unknown thing to fix the known thing. Kind Regards, Guy D. Huggins guy.huggins at icloud.com 817.454.6415 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From frogeye at porterscustom.com Mon Dec 13 07:42:06 2021 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P) Date: Mon, 13 Dec 2021 07:42:06 -0700 Subject: [TR] 1965 TR4A - Looking to drill out a stud hole in block. Need recommendations on a drill guide/jig. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: ... my recollection is waning, but did not the TR7 block have purposely canted head studs that had to be removed/inserted individually? Anyone?? dp On 12/13/2021 7:08 AM, Randy and Valerie DeRuiter wrote: > Guy- > > I don't want to sound too doom and gloomy, but have you ruled out a > cracked block at that location?? That is a common spot for one, > usually from someone in the past who pulled the engine by the studs. > At least I had an engine like that.? If you haven't done so, take a > very good look at the inside edge of the threaded hole.? If you see a > crack, that helicoil trick likely won't work. > > If you are convinced it is not cracked, possibly another solution > would be to take advantage of the deeper hole that you've measured and > get a shop to extend the threads of a longer head bolt.? One of the > inside longer ones might work - then shorten the other end to fit.? > The puzzling part is why does the stud cant to the rear - that doesn't > sound good. > > Randy > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Triumphs on behalf of Guy > Huggins > *Sent:* Saturday, December 11, 2021 5:28 PM > *To:* Triumph Mailing List > *Subject:* [TR] 1965 TR4A - Looking to drill out a stud hole in block. > Need recommendations on a drill guide/jig. > Howdy All, > > As part the head gasket replacement project, I need to address a > wallowed-out and stripped cylinder head stud hole in the block. > (If you were standing on the manifold side of the engine, it would be > the one furtherest to the front, on the manifold side.) > > A stud goes in straight up and down until the top of the threads are > even with the block, but it wiggles like hell. > As you tighten the stud down further, the wiggle starts to go away, > but the whole thing starts to cant back toward the rear of the block. > This make it impossible to slide the head down over the canted stud. > > To fix this I intend to install a coiled insert. ?(drill just 1/32? > oversized, tap, install insert). > I am hoping that someone from the list knows of a drilling jig/guide > for the drilling phase. > I know better than to attempt drilling out cast iron without a > steadying device of some sort. > > Any and all tips and advice are welcome. > > The hole is 1 5/16? deep, and the threads of the stud measure 3/4?. > It is basically threaded top to bottom. > > Thanks in advance. > I hate it when you have to fix the unknown thing to fix the known thing. > > > Kind Regards, > > Guy D. Huggins > guy.huggins at icloud.com > 817.454.6415 > > > > > > > **triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/frogeye at porterscustom.com -- Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here:WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Mon Dec 13 08:09:25 2021 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Mon, 13 Dec 2021 15:09:25 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] 1965 TR4A - Looking to drill out a stud hole in block. Need recommendations on a drill guide/jig. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <817587391.518494.1639408165849@mail.yahoo.com> Yes, they did.? Plus the steel studs in an aluminum head on an engine notorious for leaky head gaskets can make for a very difficult head removal.? The Wedge club has a special tool to assist in head removal if anyone encounters this issue.? Yet another reason to join. Back to our regularly scheduled program. Drilling the hole true (90 deg) is important but more so is getting the tap started true.? I typically use a tap guide.? This is an aluminum block with critically sized holes drilled true (using a drill press) that will keep the tap aligned whilst getting started.? Square tubing can also be used. Dave -----Original Message----- From: David P To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Mon, Dec 13, 2021 8:42 am Subject: Re: [TR] 1965 TR4A - Looking to drill out a stud hole in block. Need recommendations on a drill guide/jig. ... my recollection is waning, but did not the TR7 block have purposely canted head studs that had to be removed/inserted individually? Anyone?? dp On 12/13/2021 7:08 AM, Randy and Valerie DeRuiter wrote: #yiv5394862257 P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;} Guy- I don't want to sound too doom and gloomy, but have you ruled out a cracked block at that location?? That is a common spot for one, usually from someone in the past who pulled the engine by the studs. At least I had an engine like that.? If you haven't done so, take a very good look at the inside edge of the threaded hole.? If you see a crack, that helicoil trick likely won't work. If you are convinced it is not cracked, possibly another solution would be to take advantage of the deeper hole that you've measured and get a shop to extend the threads of a longer head bolt.? One of the inside longer ones might work - then shorten the other end to fit.? The puzzling part is why does the stud cant to the rear - that doesn't sound good. Randy From: Triumphs on behalf of Guy Huggins Sent: Saturday, December 11, 2021 5:28 PM To: Triumph Mailing List Subject: [TR] 1965 TR4A - Looking to drill out a stud hole in block. Need recommendations on a drill guide/jig. ? Howdy All, As part the head gasket replacement project, I need to address a wallowed-out and stripped cylinder head stud hole in the block. (If you were standing on the manifold side of the engine, it would be the one furtherest to the front, on the manifold side.) A stud goes in straight up and down until the top of the threads are even with the block, but it wiggles like hell. As you tighten the stud down further, the wiggle starts to go away, but the whole thing starts to cant back toward the rear of the block. This make it impossible to slide the head down over the canted stud. To fix this I intend to install a coiled insert. ?(drill just 1/32? oversized, tap, install insert). I am hoping that someone from the list knows of a drilling jig/guide for the drilling phase. I know better than to attempt drilling out cast iron without a steadying device of some sort. Any and all tips and advice are welcome. The hole is 1 5/16? deep, and the threads of the stud measure 3/4?. It is basically threaded top to bottom. Thanks in advance. I hate it when you have to fix the unknown thing to fix the known thing. Kind Regards, Guy D. Huggins guy.huggins at icloud.com 817.454.6415 ** triumphs at autox.team.net **Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.htmlArchive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archiveUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/frogeye at porterscustom.com -- Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From triumphstag at gmail.com Mon Dec 13 09:15:49 2021 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy) Date: Mon, 13 Dec 2021 08:15:49 -0800 Subject: [TR] 1965 TR4A - Looking to drill out a stud hole in block. Need recommendations on a drill guide/jig. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Canted studs On Stag too. Regarding coiled inserts. Time Serts are good. Not cheap though. Sujit On Mon, Dec 13, 2021, 6:42 AM David P wrote: > ... my recollection is waning, but did not the TR7 block have purposely > canted head studs that had to be removed/inserted individually? Anyone? dp > On 12/13/2021 7:08 AM, Randy and Valerie DeRuiter wrote: > > Guy- > > I don't want to sound too doom and gloomy, but have you ruled out a > cracked block at that location? That is a common spot for one, usually > from someone in the past who pulled the engine by the studs. At least I had > an engine like that. If you haven't done so, take a very good look at the > inside edge of the threaded hole. If you see a crack, that helicoil trick > likely won't work. > > If you are convinced it is not cracked, possibly another solution would be > to take advantage of the deeper hole that you've measured and get a shop to > extend the threads of a longer head bolt. One of the inside longer ones > might work - then shorten the other end to fit. The puzzling part is why > does the stud cant to the rear - that doesn't sound good. > > Randy > > ------------------------------ > *From:* Triumphs > on behalf of Guy Huggins > > *Sent:* Saturday, December 11, 2021 5:28 PM > *To:* Triumph Mailing List > > *Subject:* [TR] 1965 TR4A - Looking to drill out a stud hole in block. > Need recommendations on a drill guide/jig. > > Howdy All, > > As part the head gasket replacement project, I need to address a > wallowed-out and stripped cylinder head stud hole in the block. > (If you were standing on the manifold side of the engine, it would be the > one furtherest to the front, on the manifold side.) > > A stud goes in straight up and down until the top of the threads are even > with the block, but it wiggles like hell. > As you tighten the stud down further, the wiggle starts to go away, but > the whole thing starts to cant back toward the rear of the block. > This make it impossible to slide the head down over the canted stud. > > To fix this I intend to install a coiled insert. (drill just 1/32? > oversized, tap, install insert). > I am hoping that someone from the list knows of a drilling jig/guide for > the drilling phase. > I know better than to attempt drilling out cast iron without a steadying > device of some sort. > > Any and all tips and advice are welcome. > > The hole is 1 5/16? deep, and the threads of the stud measure 3/4?. > It is basically threaded top to bottom. > > Thanks in advance. > I hate it when you have to fix the unknown thing to fix the known thing. > > > Kind Regards, > > Guy D. Huggins > guy.huggins at icloud.com > 817.454.6415 > > > > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/frogeye at porterscustom.com > > -- > Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumphstag at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jpaynepbr at cox.net Mon Dec 13 10:52:07 2021 From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (jpaynepbr at cox.net) Date: Mon, 13 Dec 2021 09:52:07 -0800 Subject: [TR] 1965 TR4A - Looking to drill out a stud hole in block. Need recommendations on a drill guide/jig. In-Reply-To: <3B228F06-73B0-47A7-B42E-EDC1B4E1124B@fuse.net> References: <3B228F06-73B0-47A7-B42E-EDC1B4E1124B@fuse.net> Message-ID: <000801d7f04a$2705d9e0$75118da0$@cox.net> I had a catastrophic driveline failure on a TR3 a few years back ? ring and pinion ate itself and locked up.. transmission ate 2nd gear on main and layshaft and??.front main bearing bolt on manifold side of motor sheared. This in turn cracked the block vertically between the hole for the main bolt and the front manifold side stud. I imagine the entire driveline being ?whipped? from rear to front. Even though we were able to get the broken bolt extracted, the block was junk. Similar thing happed (motor only) on a friends TR2 powered Morgan. Ken Gillanders was able to salvage that one. From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Dave Connitt Sent: Monday, December 13, 2021 2:27 AM To: Guy Huggins Cc: Triumph Mailing List Subject: Re: [TR] 1965 TR4A - Looking to drill out a stud hole in block. Need recommendations on a drill guide/jig. Hello Guy, That is a tough one. Have you considered talking this over with the machinist that did your cylinder head as he may have come across this type of issue before. I agree with you that locating and holding the X, Y and Z positions of the repair is critical. Best of luck to you. Dave Connitt Sent from my iPhone On Dec 11, 2021, at 6:35 PM, Guy Huggins > wrote: ?Howdy All, As part the head gasket replacement project, I need to address a wallowed-out and stripped cylinder head stud hole in the block. (If you were standing on the manifold side of the engine, it would be the one furtherest to the front, on the manifold side.) A stud goes in straight up and down until the top of the threads are even with the block, but it wiggles like hell. As you tighten the stud down further, the wiggle starts to go away, but the whole thing starts to cant back toward the rear of the block. This make it impossible to slide the head down over the canted stud. To fix this I intend to install a coiled insert. (drill just 1/32? oversized, tap, install insert). I am hoping that someone from the list knows of a drilling jig/guide for the drilling phase. I know better than to attempt drilling out cast iron without a steadying device of some sort. Any and all tips and advice are welcome. The hole is 1 5/16? deep, and the threads of the stud measure 3/4?. It is basically threaded top to bottom. Thanks in advance. I hate it when you have to fix the unknown thing to fix the known thing. Kind Regards, Guy D. Huggins guy.huggins at icloud.com 817.454.6415 ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dconnitt at fuse.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jerryvvtr4a at gmail.com Mon Dec 13 17:29:09 2021 From: jerryvvtr4a at gmail.com (jerry van vlack) Date: Mon, 13 Dec 2021 19:29:09 -0500 Subject: [TR] 1965 TR4A - Looking to drill out a stud hole in block. Need recommendations on a drill guide/jig. In-Reply-To: <3B228F06-73B0-47A7-B42E-EDC1B4E1124B@fuse.net> References: , <3B228F06-73B0-47A7-B42E-EDC1B4E1124B@fuse.net> Message-ID: <79DE04E3-7470-4992-869E-33BBBDBFDD2E@hxcore.ol> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dconnitt at fuse.net Mon Dec 13 18:31:37 2021 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Mon, 13 Dec 2021 20:31:37 -0500 Subject: [TR] 1965 TR4A - Looking to drill out a stud hole in block. Need recommendations on a drill guide/jig. In-Reply-To: <79DE04E3-7470-4992-869E-33BBBDBFDD2E@hxcore.ol> References: <79DE04E3-7470-4992-869E-33BBBDBFDD2E@hxcore.ol> Message-ID: <9E9A330C-3FA9-4DA7-91CD-45ADC1AF2477@fuse.net> Jerry, As much as I hate to say it, I would source another block at this point. Money wise, a good block would be much cheaper than any machinist cost. Bad news obviously is that Guy is going to have to pull the entire engine. Guy, it?s too bad you live so far away as this would be a great group effort to get your car fixed! Dave Connitt Sent from my iPhone > On Dec 13, 2021, at 7:29 PM, jerry van vlack wrote: > > ? > I have a bit of machining experience and I would not attempt this on my own. I?m guessing that the oil pan flange and the head are parallel; they certainly should be. A machinist can take the block and set it on a mill or drill press table which should be perpendicular to the drill axis and drill the hole oversize to accept the insert of your choice. But as another said have the block checked to be certain the current hole is not cracked. Fix it correctly and don?t look back. > & -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Tue Dec 14 14:22:25 2021 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2021 16:22:25 -0500 Subject: [TR] 1965 TR4A - Looking to drill out a stud hole in block. Need recommendations on a drill guide/jig. In-Reply-To: <9E9A330C-3FA9-4DA7-91CD-45ADC1AF2477@fuse.net> References: <79DE04E3-7470-4992-869E-33BBBDBFDD2E@hxcore.ol> <9E9A330C-3FA9-4DA7-91CD-45ADC1AF2477@fuse.net> Message-ID: I've got pretty good confidence that someone near you has one or two engines sitting in a corner in their garage (me -- 4ea. TR2/TR4 2ea TR6) :) I bet it wouldn't be hard to find a block if you put the word out. That said.... I like keeping the original engine if at all possible..... I would find a metal block with a hole to use as a drilling guide and it will likely drill ok --- Where I fall short is getting the tap started perfectly straight, but it would likely correct as you tap deeper. I'm lucky to have a very good cylinder head shop nearby that will also deck blocks and do repair work like this at a reasonable price. Good luck! -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave at ranteer.com Tue Dec 14 14:48:42 2021 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave northrup) Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2021 21:48:42 +0000 Subject: [TR] 1965 TR4A - Looking to drill out a stud hole in block. Need recommendations on a drill guide/jig. Message-ID: <7353604004ee4004bd05bb5b8fa912ea@ranteer.com> Just a thought, Guy. This might be a good time to bring in a machine shop. And you might want to have the block magna fluxed to see if there are any cracks. And, maybe have it decked to get a little more compression -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tony at tonydrews.com Tue Dec 14 14:56:28 2021 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2021 15:56:28 -0600 Subject: [TR] 1965 TR4A - Looking to drill out a stud hole in block. Need recommendations on a drill guide/jig. In-Reply-To: <7353604004ee4004bd05bb5b8fa912ea@ranteer.com> References: <7353604004ee4004bd05bb5b8fa912ea@ranteer.com> Message-ID: <67c958cb-decc-b2f7-468d-7f42da37045b@tonydrews.com> Don't deck a wet liner block unless you want to deal with shaving pistons / liners to keep things sealing and not hitting the head... Cheers, Tony On 12/14/2021 3:48 PM, dave northrup wrote: > Just a thought,? Guy.? This might be a good time to bring in a machine > shop.? ?And you might want to have the block magna fluxed to see if > there are any cracks.? ?And,? maybe have it decked to get a little > more compression > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com From frogeye at porterscustom.com Tue Dec 14 22:07:44 2021 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2021 22:07:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] OD gear box question Message-ID: Nice job Glenn. DP On December 14, 2021, at 6:25 PM, "Glenn A. Merrell" wrote: David P, I did my TR250 J Type adaption which is the same forward frame mounting points as the early manufacture dates ?71 TR6 using just angle iron and bolts, and some custom modified polyurethane bushings, no MIG needed. ? The adapter bracket is really quite simple: two 1.5? cross section x 3/16? x ~7? long angle irons and another piece of the same angle about ~4.5 inches long.? Drill three holes in the 7? pieces,? four holes in the 4.5? piece, die grind? a few clearance points for the J Type Adapter housing and 90 degree drive clearance, paint, add a few pieces of adhesive rubber to the sides of the 7? pieces and bolt it up.? I did add some drilled nut/bolts for a wire/ cotter pin just to keep things in place. ? Whole construction was about 2 hours, probably spent more time fretting about it. ? I drive quite spirited and I?ve not had any issues where the bracket would need to be welded. ? Glenn Merrell aka Stag-By-Triumph Garage Remember, ?the BEST trophies are: Miles on the Odometer; Stone chips in the paint; and DEAD BUGS on the windscreen ? with the occasional smell of manure!? ? ? ? From: Triumphs On Behalf Of David P Sent: Tuesday, November 30, 2021 7:40 AM To: DAVID MASSEY ; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] OD gear box question ? Yes, J type for a 71' TR6??? Yep, some angle iron made it work.. No drilling needed... a MIG yes.. LOL? Dave, do you know the reduction percentage of the J type?? dp On 11/30/2021 7:34 AM, DAVID MASSEY wrote: Did you get the A-type or J-type overdrive.? They switched in 1973 from the A to the J-type and modified the frame to suit.? The J-type is not a direct fit.? It can be done but it is an unorthodox mounting.? IOW: roll your own. ? Dave ? ? -----Original Message----- From: David P To: Triumphs (triumphs at autox.team.net) Sent: Tue, Nov 30, 2021 8:13 am Subject: [TR] OD gear box question Owners,?? I acquired a Factory OD gear box for my '71 and discovered that the transmission mounts on my chassis do not correspond to the mount on the box... So, were the cars ordered with OD modified at the chassis mount location? ? ?With the OD, removing the driveshaft becomes a bit more problematic...due to moving the mount rearward nearly 6 inches. DaveP ? -- Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ ? ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** ? Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive ? Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -- Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dconnitt at fuse.net Thu Dec 16 16:45:08 2021 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Thu, 16 Dec 2021 18:45:08 -0500 Subject: [TR] Broken hood frame on my TR4A Message-ID: So I was lowering the top on my TR4A last night for an evening drive and this happened. The stamped steel front piece that attaches the top to the windshield broke free from the frame. I remember back when I was in restoration mode I had 2 hood frames, one good one and one just like this. Since this seems to be a more common failure than I first thought, any suggestions on a good repair technique? Thanks in advance! Dave Connitt DavesTR4A.com -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_1864.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 123311 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- Sent from my iPhone From triumphstag at gmail.com Fri Dec 17 10:32:50 2021 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy) Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2021 09:32:50 -0800 Subject: [TR] Mixture - Check and Adjust ZS 175 carbs Message-ID: The ROM for the Stag says to lift each air valve by 0.8mm and note the reaction of the engine. Is 0.8mm really enough? I can't make out any difference. My carbs needles are set to max lean. The car revs, in neutral, well without hesitation. The Stag uses the same ZS CD 175 as the TR6 I'm assuming the tuning is the same. Sujit -- Sujit Roy Cupertino, California https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Fri Dec 17 11:20:19 2021 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2021 18:20:19 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Mixture - Check and Adjust ZS 175 carbs In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <729276659.1458828.1639765219409@mail.yahoo.com> Is that for domestic cars or just European cars?? This is the technique used for decades for SU's but they had a piston lifting button that would lift the piston the prescribed amount.? The reason it worked is that the needle was profiled to run rich at idle and lifting the piston would lean it out.? When set right you will get a momentary increase in speed. When US Emissions standards wet in running rich at idle was no longer an option.? The needles were profiled to run lean at idle to meet the CO and HC levels prescribed by the EPA.? Lifting the piston on such a car will have no effect or will just cause it to slow down.? The only accurate way to set the jets is with am exhaust gas analyzer. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Sujit Roy To: Triumphs Sent: Fri, Dec 17, 2021 11:32 am Subject: [TR] Mixture - Check and Adjust ZS 175 carbs The ROM for the Stag says to lift each air valve by 0.8mm and note the reaction of the engine. Is 0.8mm really enough? I can't make out any difference. My carbs needles are set to max lean. The car revs, in neutral, well without hesitation.The Stag uses the same ZS CD 175 as the TR6 I'm assuming the tuning?is the same.? Sujit -- Sujit Roy Cupertino, California https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From triumphstag at gmail.com Fri Dec 17 11:45:01 2021 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy) Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2021 10:45:01 -0800 Subject: [TR] Mixture - Check and Adjust ZS 175 carbs In-Reply-To: <729276659.1458828.1639765219409@mail.yahoo.com> References: <729276659.1458828.1639765219409@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: The ROM say the engine RPM should raise and then settle down if it is running right. 0.8mm is som small. WIll I notice anything. The carbs have been rebuilt, but needles are 50 years old. I can check the plugs but I'm assuming after a few test runs. The carbs are for a FED Stag. Sujit On Fri, Dec 17, 2021 at 10:20 AM DAVID MASSEY wrote: > Is that for domestic cars or just European cars? This is the technique > used for decades for SU's but they had a piston lifting button that would > lift the piston the prescribed amount. The reason it worked is that the > needle was profiled to run rich at idle and lifting the piston would lean > it out. When set right you will get a momentary increase in speed. > > When US Emissions standards wet in running rich at idle was no longer an > option. The needles were profiled to run lean at idle to meet the CO and > HC levels prescribed by the EPA. Lifting the piston on such a car will > have no effect or will just cause it to slow down. > > The only accurate way to set the jets is with am exhaust gas analyzer. > > Dave > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Sujit Roy > To: Triumphs > Sent: Fri, Dec 17, 2021 11:32 am > Subject: [TR] Mixture - Check and Adjust ZS 175 carbs > > > The ROM for the Stag says to lift each air valve by 0.8mm and note the > reaction of the engine. Is 0.8mm really enough? I can't make out any > difference. My carbs needles are set to max lean. The car revs, in neutral, > well without hesitation. > The Stag uses the same ZS CD 175 as the TR6 I'm assuming the tuning is the > same. > Sujit > > -- > Sujit Roy > Cupertino, California > > https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com > -- Sujit Roy Cupertino, California https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From lherault at verizon.net Fri Dec 17 12:19:48 2021 From: lherault at verizon.net (Ron L'Herault) Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2021 14:19:48 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR] Mixture - Check and Adjust ZS 175 carbs References: <001401d7f37b$0f80df70$2e829e50$.ref@verizon.net> Message-ID: <001401d7f37b$0f80df70$2e829e50$@verizon.net> .8 mm or 8 mm? I think it is 8mm or about a quarter of an inch. Ron L The ROM for the Stag says to lift each air valve by 0.8mm and note the reaction of the engine. Is 0.8mm really enough? I can't make out any difference. My carbs needles are set to max lean. The car revs, in neutral, well without hesitation. The Stag uses the same ZS CD 175 as the TR6 I'm assuming the tuning is the same. Sujit -- Sujit Roy Cupertino, California From dave at ranteer.com Sat Dec 18 09:07:35 2021 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave northrup) Date: Sat, 18 Dec 2021 16:07:35 +0000 Subject: [TR] Merry Christmas to all Message-ID: -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Christmas2021.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 479244 bytes Desc: Christmas2021.jpg URL: From triumphstag at gmail.com Mon Dec 20 15:57:23 2021 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy) Date: Mon, 20 Dec 2021 14:57:23 -0800 Subject: [TR] About TriumphsOnly Message-ID: got this from FB from WB himself. Triumphs Only will be selling cars & parts. 64 cars and more parts of bodies, of all models If you or friends are in the San Francisco Bay Area(Stockton CA) and are in need of parts (NO SHIPPING, PICK UP ONLY) we have literally tons! Restored TR3 chassis, rebuilt engine, rebuilt trans w OD, plenty of parts for all models TR2, TR3, TR4, TR6, TR7, TR8, Spitfire, GT6, Stag. I?ll be returning to USA on Dec 30 and will be there until Jan 25th. My contact number while in USA is 209-914-9658. The number will NOT work until I return. -- Sujit Roy Cupertino, California https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From grglmn at gmail.com Mon Dec 20 17:38:44 2021 From: grglmn at gmail.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Mon, 20 Dec 2021 18:38:44 -0600 Subject: [TR] About TriumphsOnly In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Roy, are they going out of business? On Mon, Dec 20, 2021, 4:57 PM Sujit Roy wrote: > got this from FB from WB himself. > > Triumphs Only will be selling cars & parts. 64 cars and more parts of > bodies, of all models If you or friends are in the San Francisco Bay > Area(Stockton CA) and are in need of parts (NO SHIPPING, PICK UP ONLY) we > have literally tons! Restored TR3 chassis, rebuilt engine, rebuilt trans w > OD, plenty of parts for all models TR2, TR3, TR4, TR6, TR7, TR8, Spitfire, > GT6, Stag. I?ll be returning to USA on Dec 30 and will be there until Jan > 25th. My contact number while in USA is 209-914-9658. The number will NOT > work until I return. > > -- > Sujit Roy > Cupertino, California > > https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/grglmn at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From artwmcewen at gmail.com Tue Dec 28 14:16:43 2021 From: artwmcewen at gmail.com (Art McEwen) Date: Tue, 28 Dec 2021 16:16:43 -0500 Subject: [TR] Moss/UPS to Canada Message-ID: With the border closed/open/closed and Moss not shipping large parts via US Postal I'm looking to ship via UPS. Does anybody have 1st hand knowledge if UPS Expedited is actually cheaper from a brokerage standpoint then UPS Standard? Both UPS & Moss are skeleton staff this week. Thanks, Art. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From artwmcewen at gmail.com Tue Dec 28 14:30:35 2021 From: artwmcewen at gmail.com (Art McEwen) Date: Tue, 28 Dec 2021 16:30:35 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A O/D Thrust ring bearing removal Message-ID: None of the otherwise excellent O/D overhaul resources I've read/viewed so far seem to spend much time on how to R&R this bearing (70 in diagram below), it just seems to go from assembled to disassembled to re-assembled without much description. I've removed (and bent) the small circlip (69) but I haven't tried anything more drastic yet. Any guidance? The large circlip (71) is shown as N/A on Moss but TRF shows it as the same one as a TR6 (500637), can anyone confirm in case I bend it too? https://mossmotors.com/triumph-tr2-3-4/clutch-gearbox-drivetrain/overdrive Thanks, Art -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From auprichard at uprichard.net Thu Dec 30 06:03:27 2021 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (auprichard uprichard.net) Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2021 13:03:27 +0000 Subject: [TR] gearbox reverse switch Message-ID: Listers: For various reasons, I find I have to put a TR3 top cover in a TR250 - so I need to drill a hole for a reverse / back-up switch. Does anyone know the drill and tap sizes I should be using? Thanks in advance. Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From frogeye at porterscustom.com Thu Dec 30 08:04:38 2021 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P) Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2021 08:04:38 -0700 Subject: [TR] gearbox reverse switch In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <241e512c-228a-5e4d-6b46-e344243c1df3@porterscustom.com> the switch is a 5/8ths x 13TPI On 12/30/2021 6:03 AM, auprichard uprichard.net wrote: > > Listers: > > For various reasons, I find I have to put a TR3 top cover in a TR250 - > so I need to drill a hole for a reverse / back-up switch. > > Does anyone know the drill and tap sizes I should be using? Thanks in > advance. > > Andrew Uprichard > > Jackson, Michigan > > > **triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/frogeye at porterscustom.com -- Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here:WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From auprichard at uprichard.net Thu Dec 30 08:23:26 2021 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (auprichard uprichard.net) Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2021 15:23:26 +0000 Subject: [TR] gearbox reverse switch In-Reply-To: <241e512c-228a-5e4d-6b46-e344243c1df3@porterscustom.com> References: <241e512c-228a-5e4d-6b46-e344243c1df3@porterscustom.com> Message-ID: I have just done a search and cannot find any mention of a 5/8 x 13 tpi. 5/8 x 11, 18 and 24 tpi are all readily available, and ? x 13, but no 5/8 x 13. Andrew From: Triumphs On Behalf Of David P Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2021 10:05 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] gearbox reverse switch the switch is a 5/8ths x 13TPI On 12/30/2021 6:03 AM, auprichard uprichard.net wrote: Listers: For various reasons, I find I have to put a TR3 top cover in a TR250 - so I need to drill a hole for a reverse / back-up switch. Does anyone know the drill and tap sizes I should be using? Thanks in advance. Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/frogeye at porterscustom.com -- Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From auprichard at uprichard.net Thu Dec 30 08:40:37 2021 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (auprichard uprichard.net) Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2021 15:40:37 +0000 Subject: [TR] gearbox reverse switch In-Reply-To: References: <241e512c-228a-5e4d-6b46-e344243c1df3@porterscustom.com> Message-ID: I was just referred to a Buckeye triumph article which suggested a 16 x 2 mm tap works. Found one fairly easily. Thanks for everyone?s help! Happy New Year! Andrew From: auprichard uprichard.net Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2021 10:23 AM To: David P ; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [TR] gearbox reverse switch I have just done a search and cannot find any mention of a 5/8 x 13 tpi. 5/8 x 11, 18 and 24 tpi are all readily available, and ? x 13, but no 5/8 x 13. Andrew From: Triumphs > On Behalf Of David P Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2021 10:05 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] gearbox reverse switch the switch is a 5/8ths x 13TPI On 12/30/2021 6:03 AM, auprichard uprichard.net wrote: Listers: For various reasons, I find I have to put a TR3 top cover in a TR250 - so I need to drill a hole for a reverse / back-up switch. Does anyone know the drill and tap sizes I should be using? Thanks in advance. Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/frogeye at porterscustom.com -- Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From greg at gelhar.com Thu Dec 30 10:33:36 2021 From: greg at gelhar.com (Greg Gelhar) Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2021 11:33:36 -0600 Subject: [TR] gearbox reverse switch In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000001d7fda3$61c9f140$255dd3c0$@gelhar.com> Yet another place you will find metric threads on a TR. M16 x 2.0 tap, 14mm drill. From: Triumphs On Behalf Of auprichard uprichard.net Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2021 7:03 AM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] gearbox reverse switch Listers: For various reasons, I find I have to put a TR3 top cover in a TR250 - so I need to drill a hole for a reverse / back-up switch. Does anyone know the drill and tap sizes I should be using? Thanks in advance. Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From actionsl at att.net Thu Dec 30 13:11:07 2021 From: actionsl at att.net (Carl Carlson) Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2021 12:11:07 -0800 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 14, Issue 263 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <38451A02-F010-46DB-ABDB-AF45C10E9FB6@att.net> Don?t know why you mess with there overdrives. Toyota 5 speeds are so much better. I have overdrive?s in the shed that I will never use. Carl > On Dec 30, 2021, at 11:09 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > ?Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to > triumphs at autox.team.net > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > triumphs-request at autox.team.net > > You can reach the person managing the list at > triumphs-owner at autox.team.net > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. gearbox reverse switch (auprichard uprichard.net) > 2. Re: gearbox reverse switch (David P) > 3. Re: gearbox reverse switch (auprichard uprichard.net) > 4. Re: gearbox reverse switch (auprichard uprichard.net) > 5. Re: gearbox reverse switch (Greg Gelhar) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2021 13:03:27 +0000 > From: auprichard uprichard.net > To: Triumphs > Subject: [TR] gearbox reverse switch > Message-ID: > > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Listers: > > For various reasons, I find I have to put a TR3 top cover in a TR250 - so I need to drill a hole for a reverse / back-up switch. > > Does anyone know the drill and tap sizes I should be using? Thanks in advance. > > Andrew Uprichard > Jackson, Michigan > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2021 08:04:38 -0700 > From: David P > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] gearbox reverse switch > Message-ID: <241e512c-228a-5e4d-6b46-e344243c1df3 at porterscustom.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed" > > the switch is a 5/8ths x 13TPI > >> On 12/30/2021 6:03 AM, auprichard uprichard.net wrote: >> >> Listers: >> >> For various reasons, I find I have to put a TR3 top cover in a TR250 - >> so I need to drill a hole for a reverse / back-up switch. >> >> Does anyone know the drill and tap sizes I should be using? Thanks in >> advance. >> >> Andrew Uprichard >> >> Jackson, Michigan >> >> >> **triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/frogeye at porterscustom.com > > -- > Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here:WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 3 > Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2021 15:23:26 +0000 > From: auprichard uprichard.net > To: David P , "triumphs at autox.team.net" > > Subject: Re: [TR] gearbox reverse switch > Message-ID: > > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > I have just done a search and cannot find any mention of a 5/8 x 13 tpi. 5/8 x 11, 18 and 24 tpi are all readily available, and ? x 13, but no 5/8 x 13. > > Andrew > > From: Triumphs On Behalf Of David P > Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2021 10:05 AM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] gearbox reverse switch > > > the switch is a 5/8ths x 13TPI > On 12/30/2021 6:03 AM, auprichard uprichard.net wrote: > Listers: > > For various reasons, I find I have to put a TR3 top cover in a TR250 - so I need to drill a hole for a reverse / back-up switch. > > Does anyone know the drill and tap sizes I should be using? Thanks in advance. > > Andrew Uprichard > Jackson, Michigan > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/frogeye at porterscustom.com > > -- > > Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 4 > Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2021 15:40:37 +0000 > From: auprichard uprichard.net > To: David P , "triumphs at autox.team.net" > > Subject: Re: [TR] gearbox reverse switch > Message-ID: > > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > I was just referred to a Buckeye triumph article which suggested a 16 x 2 mm tap works. Found one fairly easily. Thanks for everyone?s help! > > Happy New Year! > > Andrew > > From: auprichard uprichard.net > Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2021 10:23 AM > To: David P ; triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: RE: [TR] gearbox reverse switch > > I have just done a search and cannot find any mention of a 5/8 x 13 tpi. 5/8 x 11, 18 and 24 tpi are all readily available, and ? x 13, but no 5/8 x 13. > > Andrew > > From: Triumphs > On Behalf Of David P > Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2021 10:05 AM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] gearbox reverse switch > > > the switch is a 5/8ths x 13TPI > On 12/30/2021 6:03 AM, auprichard uprichard.net wrote: > Listers: > > For various reasons, I find I have to put a TR3 top cover in a TR250 - so I need to drill a hole for a reverse / back-up switch. > > Does anyone know the drill and tap sizes I should be using? Thanks in advance. > > Andrew Uprichard > Jackson, Michigan > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/frogeye at porterscustom.com > > -- > > Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 5 > Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2021 11:33:36 -0600 > From: "Greg Gelhar" > To: "'auprichard uprichard.net'" , > "'Triumphs'" > Subject: Re: [TR] gearbox reverse switch > Message-ID: <000001d7fda3$61c9f140$255dd3c0$@gelhar.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Yet another place you will find metric threads on a TR. M16 x 2.0 tap, 14mm > drill. > > > > From: Triumphs On Behalf Of auprichard > uprichard.net > Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2021 7:03 AM > To: Triumphs > Subject: [TR] gearbox reverse switch > > > > Listers: > > > > For various reasons, I find I have to put a TR3 top cover in a TR250 - so I > need to drill a hole for a reverse / back-up switch. > > Does anyone know the drill and tap sizes I should be using? Thanks in > advance. > > > > Andrew Uprichard > > Jackson, Michigan > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Subject: Digest Footer > > _______________________________________________ > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > ------------------------------ > > End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 14, Issue 263 > ***************************************** From rrochlin at comcast.net Thu Dec 30 13:49:09 2021 From: rrochlin at comcast.net (Robert Rochlin) Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2021 15:49:09 -0500 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 14, Issue 263 In-Reply-To: <38451A02-F010-46DB-ABDB-AF45C10E9FB6@att.net> References: <38451A02-F010-46DB-ABDB-AF45C10E9FB6@att.net> Message-ID: I don?t doubt that Toyota 5 Speed transmissions are smoother and more reliable than old Triumph transmissions, but, in my opinion, one of the best parts about driving an old car is recalling how they sounded, felt and drove back in the day. I love that. My wife has a newer sports car and I much prefer to drive my old Triumph (except the air bags part) I know it?s not everyones experience, but I bought my O/D on eBay over 20 years ago and it and the transmission have been 100% reliable - of course everything around them has been rebuilt over time? Wishing everyone a better 2022 than 2021. Best Bob Sent from my iPhone > On Dec 30, 2021, at 3:23 PM, Carl Carlson wrote: > > ?Don?t know why you mess with there overdrives. Toyota 5 speeds are so much better. I have overdrive?s in the shed that I will never use. > > Carl > >> On Dec 30, 2021, at 11:09 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: >> >> ?Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to >> triumphs at autox.team.net >> >> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs >> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to >> triumphs-request at autox.team.net >> >> You can reach the person managing the list at >> triumphs-owner at autox.team.net >> >> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific >> than "Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..." >> >> >> Today's Topics: >> >> 1. gearbox reverse switch (auprichard uprichard.net) >> 2. Re: gearbox reverse switch (David P) >> 3. Re: gearbox reverse switch (auprichard uprichard.net) >> 4. Re: gearbox reverse switch (auprichard uprichard.net) >> 5. Re: gearbox reverse switch (Greg Gelhar) >> >> >> ---------------------------------------------------------------------- >> >> Message: 1 >> Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2021 13:03:27 +0000 >> From: auprichard uprichard.net >> To: Triumphs >> Subject: [TR] gearbox reverse switch >> Message-ID: >> >> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >> >> Listers: >> >> For various reasons, I find I have to put a TR3 top cover in a TR250 - so I need to drill a hole for a reverse / back-up switch. >> >> Does anyone know the drill and tap sizes I should be using? Thanks in advance. >> >> Andrew Uprichard >> Jackson, Michigan >> -------------- next part -------------- >> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... >> URL: >> >> ------------------------------ >> >> Message: 2 >> Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2021 08:04:38 -0700 >> From: David P >> To: triumphs at autox.team.net >> Subject: Re: [TR] gearbox reverse switch >> Message-ID: <241e512c-228a-5e4d-6b46-e344243c1df3 at porterscustom.com> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed" >> >> the switch is a 5/8ths x 13TPI >> >>>> On 12/30/2021 6:03 AM, auprichard uprichard.net wrote: >>> >>> Listers: >>> >>> For various reasons, I find I have to put a TR3 top cover in a TR250 - >>> so I need to drill a hole for a reverse / back-up switch. >>> >>> Does anyone know the drill and tap sizes I should be using? Thanks in >>> advance. >>> >>> Andrew Uprichard >>> >>> Jackson, Michigan >>> >>> >>> **triumphs at autox.team.net ** >>> >>> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/frogeye at porterscustom.com >> >> -- >> Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here:WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ >> -------------- next part -------------- >> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... >> URL: >> >> ------------------------------ >> >> Message: 3 >> Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2021 15:23:26 +0000 >> From: auprichard uprichard.net >> To: David P , "triumphs at autox.team.net" >> >> Subject: Re: [TR] gearbox reverse switch >> Message-ID: >> >> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" >> >> I have just done a search and cannot find any mention of a 5/8 x 13 tpi. 5/8 x 11, 18 and 24 tpi are all readily available, and ? x 13, but no 5/8 x 13. >> >> Andrew >> >> From: Triumphs On Behalf Of David P >> Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2021 10:05 AM >> To: triumphs at autox.team.net >> Subject: Re: [TR] gearbox reverse switch >> >> >> the switch is a 5/8ths x 13TPI >> On 12/30/2021 6:03 AM, auprichard uprichard.net wrote: >> Listers: >> >> For various reasons, I find I have to put a TR3 top cover in a TR250 - so I need to drill a hole for a reverse / back-up switch. >> >> Does anyone know the drill and tap sizes I should be using? Thanks in advance. >> >> Andrew Uprichard >> Jackson, Michigan >> >> >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >> >> >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/frogeye at porterscustom.com >> >> -- >> >> Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ >> -------------- next part -------------- >> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... >> URL: >> >> ------------------------------ >> >> Message: 4 >> Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2021 15:40:37 +0000 >> From: auprichard uprichard.net >> To: David P , "triumphs at autox.team.net" >> >> Subject: Re: [TR] gearbox reverse switch >> Message-ID: >> >> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" >> >> I was just referred to a Buckeye triumph article which suggested a 16 x 2 mm tap works. Found one fairly easily. Thanks for everyone?s help! >> >> Happy New Year! >> >> Andrew >> >> From: auprichard uprichard.net >> Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2021 10:23 AM >> To: David P ; triumphs at autox.team.net >> Subject: RE: [TR] gearbox reverse switch >> >> I have just done a search and cannot find any mention of a 5/8 x 13 tpi. 5/8 x 11, 18 and 24 tpi are all readily available, and ? x 13, but no 5/8 x 13. >> >> Andrew >> >> From: Triumphs > On Behalf Of David P >> Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2021 10:05 AM >> To: triumphs at autox.team.net >> Subject: Re: [TR] gearbox reverse switch >> >> >> the switch is a 5/8ths x 13TPI >> On 12/30/2021 6:03 AM, auprichard uprichard.net wrote: >> Listers: >> >> For various reasons, I find I have to put a TR3 top cover in a TR250 - so I need to drill a hole for a reverse / back-up switch. >> >> Does anyone know the drill and tap sizes I should be using? Thanks in advance. >> >> Andrew Uprichard >> Jackson, Michigan >> >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >> >> >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/frogeye at porterscustom.com >> >> -- >> >> Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ >> -------------- next part -------------- >> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... >> URL: >> >> ------------------------------ >> >> Message: 5 >> Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2021 11:33:36 -0600 >> From: "Greg Gelhar" >> To: "'auprichard uprichard.net'" , >> "'Triumphs'" >> Subject: Re: [TR] gearbox reverse switch >> Message-ID: <000001d7fda3$61c9f140$255dd3c0$@gelhar.com> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >> >> Yet another place you will find metric threads on a TR. M16 x 2.0 tap, 14mm >> drill. >> >> >> >> From: Triumphs On Behalf Of auprichard >> uprichard.net >> Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2021 7:03 AM >> To: Triumphs >> Subject: [TR] gearbox reverse switch >> >> >> >> Listers: >> >> >> >> For various reasons, I find I have to put a TR3 top cover in a TR250 - so I >> need to drill a hole for a reverse / back-up switch. >> >> Does anyone know the drill and tap sizes I should be using? Thanks in >> advance. >> >> >> >> Andrew Uprichard >> >> Jackson, Michigan >> >> -------------- next part -------------- >> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... >> URL: >> >> ------------------------------ >> >> Subject: Digest Footer >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Triumphs mailing list >> Triumphs at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs >> >> >> ------------------------------ >> >> End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 14, Issue 263 >> ***************************************** > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rrochlin at comcast.net From elliottr at rmi.net Thu Dec 30 14:04:15 2021 From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott) Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2021 15:04:15 -0600 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 14, Issue 263 In-Reply-To: References: <38451A02-F010-46DB-ABDB-AF45C10E9FB6@att.net> Message-ID: I love being able to use 2nd, 3rd and 4th overdrive.? Flicking between 3rd and 3rd overdrive on twisty hilly roads is great! Roger On 12/30/2021 2:49 PM, Robert Rochlin wrote: > I don?t doubt that Toyota 5 Speed transmissions are smoother and more reliable than old Triumph transmissions, but, in my opinion, one of the best parts about driving an old car is recalling how they sounded, felt and drove back in the day. I love that. My wife has a newer sports car and I much prefer to drive my old Triumph (except the air bags part) I know it?s not everyones experience, but I bought my O/D on eBay over 20 years ago and it and the transmission have been 100% reliable - of course everything around them has been rebuilt over time? > Wishing everyone a better 2022 than 2021. > Best > Bob > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Dec 30, 2021, at 3:23 PM, Carl Carlson wrote: >> >> ?Don?t know why you mess with there overdrives. Toyota 5 speeds are so much better. I have overdrive?s in the shed that I will never use. >> >> Carl >> >>> On Dec 30, 2021, at 11:09 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: >>> >>> ?Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to >>> triumphs at autox.team.net >>> >>> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs >>> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to >>> triumphs-request at autox.team.net >>> >>> You can reach the person managing the list at >>> triumphs-owner at autox.team.net >>> >>> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific >>> than "Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..." >>> >>> >>> Today's Topics: >>> >>> 1. gearbox reverse switch (auprichard uprichard.net) >>> 2. Re: gearbox reverse switch (David P) >>> 3. Re: gearbox reverse switch (auprichard uprichard.net) >>> 4. Re: gearbox reverse switch (auprichard uprichard.net) >>> 5. Re: gearbox reverse switch (Greg Gelhar) >>> >>> >>> ---------------------------------------------------------------------- >>> >>> Message: 1 >>> Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2021 13:03:27 +0000 >>> From: auprichard uprichard.net >>> To: Triumphs >>> Subject: [TR] gearbox reverse switch >>> Message-ID: >>> >>> >>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >>> >>> Listers: >>> >>> For various reasons, I find I have to put a TR3 top cover in a TR250 - so I need to drill a hole for a reverse / back-up switch. >>> >>> Does anyone know the drill and tap sizes I should be using? Thanks in advance. >>> >>> Andrew Uprichard >>> Jackson, Michigan >>> -------------- next part -------------- >>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... >>> URL: >>> >>> ------------------------------ >>> >>> Message: 2 >>> Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2021 08:04:38 -0700 >>> From: David P >>> To: triumphs at autox.team.net >>> Subject: Re: [TR] gearbox reverse switch >>> Message-ID: <241e512c-228a-5e4d-6b46-e344243c1df3 at porterscustom.com> >>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed" >>> >>> the switch is a 5/8ths x 13TPI >>> >>>>> On 12/30/2021 6:03 AM, auprichard uprichard.net wrote: >>>> Listers: >>>> >>>> For various reasons, I find I have to put a TR3 top cover in a TR250 - >>>> so I need to drill a hole for a reverse / back-up switch. >>>> >>>> Does anyone know the drill and tap sizes I should be using? Thanks in >>>> advance. >>>> >>>> Andrew Uprichard >>>> >>>> Jackson, Michigan >>>> >>>> >>>> **triumphs at autox.team.net ** >>>> >>>> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >>>> >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/frogeye at porterscustom.com >>> -- >>> Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here:WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ >>> -------------- next part -------------- >>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... >>> URL: >>> >>> ------------------------------ >>> >>> Message: 3 >>> Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2021 15:23:26 +0000 >>> From: auprichard uprichard.net >>> To: David P , "triumphs at autox.team.net" >>> >>> Subject: Re: [TR] gearbox reverse switch >>> Message-ID: >>> >>> >>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" >>> >>> I have just done a search and cannot find any mention of a 5/8 x 13 tpi. 5/8 x 11, 18 and 24 tpi are all readily available, and ? x 13, but no 5/8 x 13. >>> >>> Andrew >>> >>> From: Triumphs On Behalf Of David P >>> Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2021 10:05 AM >>> To: triumphs at autox.team.net >>> Subject: Re: [TR] gearbox reverse switch >>> >>> >>> the switch is a 5/8ths x 13TPI >>> On 12/30/2021 6:03 AM, auprichard uprichard.net wrote: >>> Listers: >>> >>> For various reasons, I find I have to put a TR3 top cover in a TR250 - so I need to drill a hole for a reverse / back-up switch. >>> >>> Does anyone know the drill and tap sizes I should be using? Thanks in advance. >>> >>> Andrew Uprichard >>> Jackson, Michigan >>> >>> >>> >>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >>> >>> >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >>> >>> >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/frogeye at porterscustom.com >>> >>> -- >>> >>> Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ >>> -------------- next part -------------- >>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... >>> URL: >>> >>> ------------------------------ >>> >>> Message: 4 >>> Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2021 15:40:37 +0000 >>> From: auprichard uprichard.net >>> To: David P , "triumphs at autox.team.net" >>> >>> Subject: Re: [TR] gearbox reverse switch >>> Message-ID: >>> >>> >>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" >>> >>> I was just referred to a Buckeye triumph article which suggested a 16 x 2 mm tap works. Found one fairly easily. Thanks for everyone?s help! >>> >>> Happy New Year! >>> >>> Andrew >>> >>> From: auprichard uprichard.net >>> Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2021 10:23 AM >>> To: David P ; triumphs at autox.team.net >>> Subject: RE: [TR] gearbox reverse switch >>> >>> I have just done a search and cannot find any mention of a 5/8 x 13 tpi. 5/8 x 11, 18 and 24 tpi are all readily available, and ? x 13, but no 5/8 x 13. >>> >>> Andrew >>> >>> From: Triumphs > On Behalf Of David P >>> Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2021 10:05 AM >>> To: triumphs at autox.team.net >>> Subject: Re: [TR] gearbox reverse switch >>> >>> >>> the switch is a 5/8ths x 13TPI >>> On 12/30/2021 6:03 AM, auprichard uprichard.net wrote: >>> Listers: >>> >>> For various reasons, I find I have to put a TR3 top cover in a TR250 - so I need to drill a hole for a reverse / back-up switch. >>> >>> Does anyone know the drill and tap sizes I should be using? Thanks in advance. >>> >>> Andrew Uprichard >>> Jackson, Michigan >>> >>> >>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >>> >>> >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >>> >>> >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/frogeye at porterscustom.com >>> >>> -- >>> >>> Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ >>> -------------- next part -------------- >>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... >>> URL: >>> >>> ------------------------------ >>> >>> Message: 5 >>> Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2021 11:33:36 -0600 >>> From: "Greg Gelhar" >>> To: "'auprichard uprichard.net'" , >>> "'Triumphs'" >>> Subject: Re: [TR] gearbox reverse switch >>> Message-ID: <000001d7fda3$61c9f140$255dd3c0$@gelhar.com> >>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >>> >>> Yet another place you will find metric threads on a TR. M16 x 2.0 tap, 14mm >>> drill. >>> >>> >>> >>> From: Triumphs On Behalf Of auprichard >>> uprichard.net >>> Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2021 7:03 AM >>> To: Triumphs >>> Subject: [TR] gearbox reverse switch >>> >>> >>> >>> Listers: >>> >>> >>> >>> For various reasons, I find I have to put a TR3 top cover in a TR250 - so I >>> need to drill a hole for a reverse / back-up switch. >>> >>> Does anyone know the drill and tap sizes I should be using? Thanks in >>> advance. >>> >>> >>> >>> Andrew Uprichard >>> >>> Jackson, Michigan >>> >>> -------------- next part -------------- >>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... >>> URL: >>> >>> ------------------------------ >>> >>> Subject: Digest Footer >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> Triumphs mailing list >>> Triumphs at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs >>> >>> >>> ------------------------------ >>> >>> End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 14, Issue 263 >>> ***************************************** >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rrochlin at comcast.net > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/elliottr at rmi.net From aljlthomson at charter.net Thu Dec 30 14:07:11 2021 From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson) Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2021 16:07:11 -0500 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 14, Issue 263 In-Reply-To: <38451A02-F010-46DB-ABDB-AF45C10E9FB6@att.net> References: <38451A02-F010-46DB-ABDB-AF45C10E9FB6@att.net> Message-ID: <005c01d7fdc1$366df410$a349dc30$@charter.net> Maybe the switch is required for back-up lights? Alex Thomson -----Original Message----- From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl Carlson Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2021 3:11 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 14, Issue 263 Don?t know why you mess with there overdrives. Toyota 5 speeds are so much better. I have overdrive?s in the shed that I will never use. Carl > On Dec 30, 2021, at 11:09 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > ?Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to > triumphs at autox.team.net > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > triumphs-request at autox.team.net > > You can reach the person managing the list at > triumphs-owner at autox.team.net > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. gearbox reverse switch (auprichard uprichard.net) > 2. Re: gearbox reverse switch (David P) > 3. Re: gearbox reverse switch (auprichard uprichard.net) > 4. Re: gearbox reverse switch (auprichard uprichard.net) > 5. Re: gearbox reverse switch (Greg Gelhar) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2021 13:03:27 +0000 > From: auprichard uprichard.net > To: Triumphs > Subject: [TR] gearbox reverse switch > Message-ID: > > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Listers: > > For various reasons, I find I have to put a TR3 top cover in a TR250 - so I need to drill a hole for a reverse / back-up switch. > > Does anyone know the drill and tap sizes I should be using? Thanks in advance. > > Andrew Uprichard > Jackson, Michigan > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2021 08:04:38 -0700 > From: David P > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] gearbox reverse switch > Message-ID: <241e512c-228a-5e4d-6b46-e344243c1df3 at porterscustom.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed" > > the switch is a 5/8ths x 13TPI > >> On 12/30/2021 6:03 AM, auprichard uprichard.net wrote: >> >> Listers: >> >> For various reasons, I find I have to put a TR3 top cover in a TR250 - >> so I need to drill a hole for a reverse / back-up switch. >> >> Does anyone know the drill and tap sizes I should be using? Thanks in >> advance. >> >> Andrew Uprichard >> >> Jackson, Michigan >> >> >> **triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/frogeye at porterscustom.com > > -- > Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here:WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 3 > Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2021 15:23:26 +0000 > From: auprichard uprichard.net > To: David P , "triumphs at autox.team.net" > > Subject: Re: [TR] gearbox reverse switch > Message-ID: > > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > I have just done a search and cannot find any mention of a 5/8 x 13 tpi. 5/8 x 11, 18 and 24 tpi are all readily available, and ? x 13, but no 5/8 x 13. > > Andrew > > From: Triumphs On Behalf Of David P > Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2021 10:05 AM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] gearbox reverse switch > > > the switch is a 5/8ths x 13TPI > On 12/30/2021 6:03 AM, auprichard uprichard.net wrote: > Listers: > > For various reasons, I find I have to put a TR3 top cover in a TR250 - so I need to drill a hole for a reverse / back-up switch. > > Does anyone know the drill and tap sizes I should be using? Thanks in advance. > > Andrew Uprichard > Jackson, Michigan > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/frogeye at porterscustom.com > > -- > > Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 4 > Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2021 15:40:37 +0000 > From: auprichard uprichard.net > To: David P , "triumphs at autox.team.net" > > Subject: Re: [TR] gearbox reverse switch > Message-ID: > > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > I was just referred to a Buckeye triumph article which suggested a 16 x 2 mm tap works. Found one fairly easily. Thanks for everyone?s help! > > Happy New Year! > > Andrew > > From: auprichard uprichard.net > Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2021 10:23 AM > To: David P ; triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: RE: [TR] gearbox reverse switch > > I have just done a search and cannot find any mention of a 5/8 x 13 tpi. 5/8 x 11, 18 and 24 tpi are all readily available, and ? x 13, but no 5/8 x 13. > > Andrew > > From: Triumphs > On Behalf Of David P > Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2021 10:05 AM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] gearbox reverse switch > > > the switch is a 5/8ths x 13TPI > On 12/30/2021 6:03 AM, auprichard uprichard.net wrote: > Listers: > > For various reasons, I find I have to put a TR3 top cover in a TR250 - so I need to drill a hole for a reverse / back-up switch. > > Does anyone know the drill and tap sizes I should be using? Thanks in advance. > > Andrew Uprichard > Jackson, Michigan > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/frogeye at porterscustom.com > > -- > > Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 5 > Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2021 11:33:36 -0600 > From: "Greg Gelhar" > To: "'auprichard uprichard.net'" , > "'Triumphs'" > Subject: Re: [TR] gearbox reverse switch > Message-ID: <000001d7fda3$61c9f140$255dd3c0$@gelhar.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Yet another place you will find metric threads on a TR. M16 x 2.0 tap, 14mm > drill. > > > > From: Triumphs On Behalf Of auprichard > uprichard.net > Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2021 7:03 AM > To: Triumphs > Subject: [TR] gearbox reverse switch > > > > Listers: > > > > For various reasons, I find I have to put a TR3 top cover in a TR250 - so I > need to drill a hole for a reverse / back-up switch. > > Does anyone know the drill and tap sizes I should be using? Thanks in > advance. > > > > Andrew Uprichard > > Jackson, Michigan > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Subject: Digest Footer > > _______________________________________________ > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > ------------------------------ > > End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 14, Issue 263 > ***************************************** ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net From dave1massey at cs.com Thu Dec 30 16:14:36 2021 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2021 23:14:36 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 14, Issue 263 In-Reply-To: <38451A02-F010-46DB-ABDB-AF45C10E9FB6@att.net> References: <38451A02-F010-46DB-ABDB-AF45C10E9FB6@att.net> Message-ID: <761283291.354634.1640906076484@mail.yahoo.com> I can think of 4,000 reasons. If money were no object, sure.? But most of us are really cheap. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Carl Carlson To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, Dec 30, 2021 2:11 pm Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 14, Issue 263 Don?t know why you mess with there overdrives. Toyota 5 speeds are so much better. I have overdrive?s in the shed that I will never use. Carl > On Dec 30, 2021, at 11:09 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > ?Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to >? ? triumphs at autox.team.net > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit >? ? http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to >? ? triumphs-request at autox.team.net > > You can reach the person managing the list at >? ? triumphs-owner at autox.team.net > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > >? 1. gearbox reverse switch (auprichard uprichard.net) >? 2. Re: gearbox reverse switch (David P) >? 3. Re: gearbox reverse switch (auprichard uprichard.net) >? 4. Re: gearbox reverse switch (auprichard uprichard.net) >? 5. Re: gearbox reverse switch (Greg Gelhar) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2021 13:03:27 +0000 > From: auprichard uprichard.net > To: Triumphs > Subject: [TR] gearbox reverse switch > Message-ID: >? ? >? ? > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Listers: > > For various reasons, I find I have to put a TR3 top cover in a TR250 - so I need to drill a hole for a reverse / back-up switch. > > Does anyone know the drill and tap sizes I should be using? Thanks in advance. > > Andrew Uprichard > Jackson, Michigan > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2021 08:04:38 -0700 > From: David P > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] gearbox reverse switch > Message-ID: <241e512c-228a-5e4d-6b46-e344243c1df3 at porterscustom.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed" > > the switch is a 5/8ths x 13TPI > >> On 12/30/2021 6:03 AM, auprichard uprichard.net wrote: >> >> Listers: >> >> For various reasons, I find I have to put a TR3 top cover in a TR250 - >> so I need to drill a hole for a reverse / back-up switch. >> >> Does anyone know the drill and tap sizes I should be using? Thanks in >> advance. >> >> Andrew Uprichard >> >> Jackson, Michigan >> >> >> **triumphs at autox.team.net? ** >> >> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs ? http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/frogeye at porterscustom.com > > -- > Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here:WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 3 > Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2021 15:23:26 +0000 > From: auprichard uprichard.net > To: David P , "triumphs at autox.team.net" >? ? > Subject: Re: [TR] gearbox reverse switch > Message-ID: >? ? >? ? > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > I have just done a search and cannot find any mention of a 5/8 x 13 tpi.? 5/8 x 11, 18 and 24 tpi are all readily available, and ? x 13, but no 5/8 x 13. > > Andrew > > From: Triumphs On Behalf Of David P > Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2021 10:05 AM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] gearbox reverse switch > > > the switch is a 5/8ths x 13TPI > On 12/30/2021 6:03 AM, auprichard uprichard.net wrote: > Listers: > > For various reasons, I find I have to put a TR3 top cover in a TR250 - so I need to drill a hole for a reverse / back-up switch. > > Does anyone know the drill and tap sizes I should be using? Thanks in advance. > > Andrew Uprichard > Jackson, Michigan > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/frogeye at porterscustom.com > > -- > > Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 4 > Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2021 15:40:37 +0000 > From: auprichard uprichard.net > To: David P , "triumphs at autox.team.net" >? ? > Subject: Re: [TR] gearbox reverse switch > Message-ID: >? ? >? ? > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > I was just referred to a Buckeye triumph article which suggested a 16 x 2 mm tap works.? Found one fairly easily.? Thanks for everyone?s help! > > Happy New Year! > > Andrew > > From: auprichard uprichard.net > Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2021 10:23 AM > To: David P ; triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: RE: [TR] gearbox reverse switch > > I have just done a search and cannot find any mention of a 5/8 x 13 tpi.? 5/8 x 11, 18 and 24 tpi are all readily available, and ? x 13, but no 5/8 x 13. > > Andrew > > From: Triumphs > On Behalf Of David P > Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2021 10:05 AM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] gearbox reverse switch > > > the switch is a 5/8ths x 13TPI > On 12/30/2021 6:03 AM, auprichard uprichard.net wrote: > Listers: > > For various reasons, I find I have to put a TR3 top cover in a TR250 - so I need to drill a hole for a reverse / back-up switch. > > Does anyone know the drill and tap sizes I should be using? Thanks in advance. > > Andrew Uprichard > Jackson, Michigan > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/frogeye at porterscustom.com > > -- > > Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 5 > Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2021 11:33:36 -0600 > From: "Greg Gelhar" > To: "'auprichard uprichard.net'" , >? ? "'Triumphs'" > Subject: Re: [TR] gearbox reverse switch > Message-ID: <000001d7fda3$61c9f140$255dd3c0$@gelhar.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Yet another place you will find metric threads on a TR. M16 x 2.0 tap, 14mm > drill. > > > > From: Triumphs On Behalf Of auprichard > uprichard.net > Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2021 7:03 AM > To: Triumphs > Subject: [TR] gearbox reverse switch > > > > Listers: > > > > For various reasons, I find I have to put a TR3 top cover in a TR250 - so I > need to drill a hole for a reverse / back-up switch. > > Does anyone know the drill and tap sizes I should be using? Thanks in > advance. > > > > Andrew Uprichard > > Jackson, Michigan > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Subject: Digest Footer > > _______________________________________________ > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > ------------------------------ > > End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 14, Issue 263 > ***************************************** ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fishplate at gmail.com Thu Dec 30 17:12:01 2021 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2021 19:12:01 -0500 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 14, Issue 263 In-Reply-To: <38451A02-F010-46DB-ABDB-AF45C10E9FB6@att.net> References: <38451A02-F010-46DB-ABDB-AF45C10E9FB6@att.net> Message-ID: I've got a regular TR6 4 speed to which I added overdrive. Period correct, and I can't discern anything I'm missing compared to a transmission that needs to be (even minorly) fettled As always, to each their own. On Thu, Dec 30, 2021, 15:23 Carl Carlson wrote: > Don?t know why you mess with there overdrives. Toyota 5 speeds are so much > better. I have overdrive?s in the shed that I will never use. > > Carl > > > On Dec 30, 2021, at 11:09 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > > > ?Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > > triumphs-request at autox.team.net > > > > You can reach the person managing the list at > > triumphs-owner at autox.team.net > > > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > > than "Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..." > > > > > > Today's Topics: > > > > 1. gearbox reverse switch (auprichard uprichard.net) > > 2. Re: gearbox reverse switch (David P) > > 3. Re: gearbox reverse switch (auprichard uprichard.net) > > 4. Re: gearbox reverse switch (auprichard uprichard.net) > > 5. Re: gearbox reverse switch (Greg Gelhar) > > > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > Message: 1 > > Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2021 13:03:27 +0000 > > From: auprichard uprichard.net > > To: Triumphs > > Subject: [TR] gearbox reverse switch > > Message-ID: > > < > DS7PR07MB76552353BBF01C3B56C1F2BECA459 at DS7PR07MB7655.namprd07.prod.outlook.com > > > > > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > > > Listers: > > > > For various reasons, I find I have to put a TR3 top cover in a TR250 - > so I need to drill a hole for a reverse / back-up switch. > > > > Does anyone know the drill and tap sizes I should be using? Thanks in > advance. > > > > Andrew Uprichard > > Jackson, Michigan > > -------------- next part -------------- > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > > URL: < > http://autox.team.net/pipermail/triumphs/attachments/20211230/8399b199/attachment-0001.htm > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > > > Message: 2 > > Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2021 08:04:38 -0700 > > From: David P > > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > > Subject: Re: [TR] gearbox reverse switch > > Message-ID: <241e512c-228a-5e4d-6b46-e344243c1df3 at porterscustom.com> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed" > > > > the switch is a 5/8ths x 13TPI > > > >> On 12/30/2021 6:03 AM, auprichard uprichard.net wrote: > >> > >> Listers: > >> > >> For various reasons, I find I have to put a TR3 top cover in a TR250 - > >> so I need to drill a hole for a reverse / back-up switch. > >> > >> Does anyone know the drill and tap sizes I should be using? Thanks in > >> advance. > >> > >> Andrew Uprichard > >> > >> Jackson, Michigan > >> > >> > >> **triumphs at autox.team.net ** > >> > >> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html > >> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > >> > >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/frogeye at porterscustom.com > > > > -- > > Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My > World go here:WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ > > -------------- next part -------------- > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > > URL: < > http://autox.team.net/pipermail/triumphs/attachments/20211230/7e257c90/attachment-0001.htm > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > > > Message: 3 > > Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2021 15:23:26 +0000 > > From: auprichard uprichard.net > > To: David P , "triumphs at autox.team.net" > > > > Subject: Re: [TR] gearbox reverse switch > > Message-ID: > > < > DS7PR07MB76556828473D6855A306D938CA459 at DS7PR07MB7655.namprd07.prod.outlook.com > > > > > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > > > I have just done a search and cannot find any mention of a 5/8 x 13 > tpi. 5/8 x 11, 18 and 24 tpi are all readily available, and ? x 13, but no > 5/8 x 13. > > > > Andrew > > > > From: Triumphs On Behalf Of David P > > Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2021 10:05 AM > > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > > Subject: Re: [TR] gearbox reverse switch > > > > > > the switch is a 5/8ths x 13TPI > > On 12/30/2021 6:03 AM, auprichard uprichard.net wrote: > > Listers: > > > > For various reasons, I find I have to put a TR3 top cover in a TR250 - > so I need to drill a hole for a reverse / back-up switch. > > > > Does anyone know the drill and tap sizes I should be using? Thanks in > advance. > > > > Andrew Uprichard > > Jackson, Michigan > > > > > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > > > > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > > > > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/frogeye at porterscustom.com > > > > -- > > > > Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My > World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ > > -------------- next part -------------- > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > > URL: < > http://autox.team.net/pipermail/triumphs/attachments/20211230/4c57c195/attachment-0001.htm > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > > > Message: 4 > > Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2021 15:40:37 +0000 > > From: auprichard uprichard.net > > To: David P , "triumphs at autox.team.net" > > > > Subject: Re: [TR] gearbox reverse switch > > Message-ID: > > < > DS7PR07MB765554971EB0F5ACCBEF9427CA459 at DS7PR07MB7655.namprd07.prod.outlook.com > > > > > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > > > I was just referred to a Buckeye triumph article which suggested a 16 x > 2 mm tap works. Found one fairly easily. Thanks for everyone?s help! > > > > Happy New Year! > > > > Andrew > > > > From: auprichard uprichard.net > > Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2021 10:23 AM > > To: David P ; triumphs at autox.team.net > > Subject: RE: [TR] gearbox reverse switch > > > > I have just done a search and cannot find any mention of a 5/8 x 13 > tpi. 5/8 x 11, 18 and 24 tpi are all readily available, and ? x 13, but no > 5/8 x 13. > > > > Andrew > > > > From: Triumphs triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net>> On Behalf Of David P > > Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2021 10:05 AM > > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > > Subject: Re: [TR] gearbox reverse switch > > > > > > the switch is a 5/8ths x 13TPI > > On 12/30/2021 6:03 AM, auprichard uprichard.net wrote: > > Listers: > > > > For various reasons, I find I have to put a TR3 top cover in a TR250 - > so I need to drill a hole for a reverse / back-up switch. > > > > Does anyone know the drill and tap sizes I should be using? Thanks in > advance. > > > > Andrew Uprichard > > Jackson, Michigan > > > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > > > > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > > > > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/frogeye at porterscustom.com > > > > -- > > > > Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My > World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ > > -------------- next part -------------- > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > > URL: < > http://autox.team.net/pipermail/triumphs/attachments/20211230/1eff1daf/attachment-0001.htm > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > > > Message: 5 > > Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2021 11:33:36 -0600 > > From: "Greg Gelhar" > > To: "'auprichard uprichard.net'" , > > "'Triumphs'" > > Subject: Re: [TR] gearbox reverse switch > > Message-ID: <000001d7fda3$61c9f140$255dd3c0$@gelhar.com> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > > > Yet another place you will find metric threads on a TR. M16 x 2.0 tap, > 14mm > > drill. > > > > > > > > From: Triumphs On Behalf Of auprichard > > uprichard.net > > Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2021 7:03 AM > > To: Triumphs > > Subject: [TR] gearbox reverse switch > > > > > > > > Listers: > > > > > > > > For various reasons, I find I have to put a TR3 top cover in a TR250 - > so I > > need to drill a hole for a reverse / back-up switch. > > > > Does anyone know the drill and tap sizes I should be using? Thanks in > > advance. > > > > > > > > Andrew Uprichard > > > > Jackson, Michigan > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > > URL: < > http://autox.team.net/pipermail/triumphs/attachments/20211230/290e0938/attachment-0001.htm > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > > > Subject: Digest Footer > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Triumphs mailing list > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > > > End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 14, Issue 263 > > ***************************************** > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fishplate at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dlhogye at comcast.net Thu Dec 30 17:35:45 2021 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE) Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2021 16:35:45 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 14, Issue 263 In-Reply-To: <38451A02-F010-46DB-ABDB-AF45C10E9FB6@att.net> References: <38451A02-F010-46DB-ABDB-AF45C10E9FB6@att.net> Message-ID: <217231201.427796.1640910945197@connect.xfinity.com> I think the inquiry was about mounting a switch, not replacing a trans. The full Toyota kit would be around $4K if you install it yourself. Not an unreasonable choice if things come to that, but I don't think we're quite there yet. How much for an overdrive unit? Cheers all, Dave H. > On 12/30/2021 12:11 PM Carl Carlson wrote: > > > Don?t know why you mess with there overdrives. Toyota 5 speeds are so much better. I have overdrive?s in the shed that I will never use. > > Carl > > > On Dec 30, 2021, at 11:09 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > > > ?Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > > triumphs-request at autox.team.net > > > > You can reach the person managing the list at > > triumphs-owner at autox.team.net > > > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > > than "Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..." > > > > > > Today's Topics: > > > > 1. gearbox reverse switch (auprichard uprichard.net) > > 2. Re: gearbox reverse switch (David P) > > 3. Re: gearbox reverse switch (auprichard uprichard.net) > > 4. Re: gearbox reverse switch (auprichard uprichard.net) > > 5. Re: gearbox reverse switch (Greg Gelhar) > > > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > Message: 1 > > Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2021 13:03:27 +0000 > > From: auprichard uprichard.net > > To: Triumphs > > Subject: [TR] gearbox reverse switch > > Message-ID: > > > > > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > > > Listers: > > > > For various reasons, I find I have to put a TR3 top cover in a TR250 - so I need to drill a hole for a reverse / back-up switch. > > > > Does anyone know the drill and tap sizes I should be using? Thanks in advance. > > > > Andrew Uprichard > > Jackson, Michigan > > -------------- next part -------------- > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > > URL: > > > > ------------------------------ > > > > Message: 2 > > Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2021 08:04:38 -0700 > > From: David P > > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > > Subject: Re: [TR] gearbox reverse switch > > Message-ID: <241e512c-228a-5e4d-6b46-e344243c1df3 at porterscustom.com> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed" > > > > the switch is a 5/8ths x 13TPI > > > >> On 12/30/2021 6:03 AM, auprichard uprichard.net wrote: > >> > >> Listers: > >> > >> For various reasons, I find I have to put a TR3 top cover in a TR250 - > >> so I need to drill a hole for a reverse / back-up switch. > >> > >> Does anyone know the drill and tap sizes I should be using? Thanks in > >> advance. > >> > >> Andrew Uprichard > >> > >> Jackson, Michigan > >> > >> > >> **triumphs at autox.team.net ** > >> > >> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html > >> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > >> > >> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/frogeye at porterscustom.com > > > > -- > > Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here:WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ > > -------------- next part -------------- > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > > URL: > > > > ------------------------------ > > > > Message: 3 > > Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2021 15:23:26 +0000 > > From: auprichard uprichard.net > > To: David P , "triumphs at autox.team.net" > > > > Subject: Re: [TR] gearbox reverse switch > > Message-ID: > > > > > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > > > I have just done a search and cannot find any mention of a 5/8 x 13 tpi. 5/8 x 11, 18 and 24 tpi are all readily available, and ? x 13, but no 5/8 x 13. > > > > Andrew > > > > From: Triumphs On Behalf Of David P > > Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2021 10:05 AM > > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > > Subject: Re: [TR] gearbox reverse switch > > > > > > the switch is a 5/8ths x 13TPI > > On 12/30/2021 6:03 AM, auprichard uprichard.net wrote: > > Listers: > > > > For various reasons, I find I have to put a TR3 top cover in a TR250 - so I need to drill a hole for a reverse / back-up switch. > > > > Does anyone know the drill and tap sizes I should be using? Thanks in advance. > > > > Andrew Uprichard > > Jackson, Michigan > > > > > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > > > > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > > > > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/frogeye at porterscustom.com > > > > -- > > > > Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ > > -------------- next part -------------- > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > > URL: > > > > ------------------------------ > > > > Message: 4 > > Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2021 15:40:37 +0000 > > From: auprichard uprichard.net > > To: David P , "triumphs at autox.team.net" > > > > Subject: Re: [TR] gearbox reverse switch > > Message-ID: > > > > > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > > > I was just referred to a Buckeye triumph article which suggested a 16 x 2 mm tap works. Found one fairly easily. Thanks for everyone?s help! > > > > Happy New Year! > > > > Andrew > > > > From: auprichard uprichard.net > > Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2021 10:23 AM > > To: David P ; triumphs at autox.team.net > > Subject: RE: [TR] gearbox reverse switch > > > > I have just done a search and cannot find any mention of a 5/8 x 13 tpi. 5/8 x 11, 18 and 24 tpi are all readily available, and ? x 13, but no 5/8 x 13. > > > > Andrew > > > > From: Triumphs > On Behalf Of David P > > Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2021 10:05 AM > > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > > Subject: Re: [TR] gearbox reverse switch > > > > > > the switch is a 5/8ths x 13TPI > > On 12/30/2021 6:03 AM, auprichard uprichard.net wrote: > > Listers: > > > > For various reasons, I find I have to put a TR3 top cover in a TR250 - so I need to drill a hole for a reverse / back-up switch. > > > > Does anyone know the drill and tap sizes I should be using? Thanks in advance. > > > > Andrew Uprichard > > Jackson, Michigan > > > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > > > > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > > > > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/frogeye at porterscustom.com > > > > -- > > > > Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ > > -------------- next part -------------- > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > > URL: > > > > ------------------------------ > > > > Message: 5 > > Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2021 11:33:36 -0600 > > From: "Greg Gelhar" > > To: "'auprichard uprichard.net'" , > > "'Triumphs'" > > Subject: Re: [TR] gearbox reverse switch > > Message-ID: <000001d7fda3$61c9f140$255dd3c0$@gelhar.com> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > > > Yet another place you will find metric threads on a TR. M16 x 2.0 tap, 14mm > > drill. > > > > > > > > From: Triumphs On Behalf Of auprichard > > uprichard.net > > Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2021 7:03 AM > > To: Triumphs > > Subject: [TR] gearbox reverse switch > > > > > > > > Listers: > > > > > > > > For various reasons, I find I have to put a TR3 top cover in a TR250 - so I > > need to drill a hole for a reverse / back-up switch. > > > > Does anyone know the drill and tap sizes I should be using? Thanks in > > advance. > > > > > > > > Andrew Uprichard > > > > Jackson, Michigan > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > > URL: > > > > ------------------------------ > > > > Subject: Digest Footer > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Triumphs mailing list > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > > > End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 14, Issue 263 > > ***************************************** > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye at comcast.net From ryel at mac.com Thu Dec 30 17:04:57 2021 From: ryel at mac.com (Rye Livingston) Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2021 16:04:57 -0800 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 14, Issue 263 In-Reply-To: References: <38451A02-F010-46DB-ABDB-AF45C10E9FB6@att.net> Message-ID: <081A5845-1A2F-43C2-B8AB-F01BAB065C6D@mac.com> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From davidt at opentext.com Fri Dec 31 07:13:23 2021 From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton) Date: Fri, 31 Dec 2021 14:13:23 +0000 Subject: [TR] [EXTERNAL] - Re: Triumphs Digest, Vol 14, Issue 263 In-Reply-To: <38451A02-F010-46DB-ABDB-AF45C10E9FB6@att.net> References: <38451A02-F010-46DB-ABDB-AF45C10E9FB6@att.net> Message-ID: I would love to put either a Toyota ( $$$$$ ) or an overdrive in my '3a ( availability more than anything, being in Canada ). I have the overdrive in the spit6 and simply love it there. -----Original Message----- From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Carl Carlson Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2021 3:11 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [EXTERNAL] - Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 14, Issue 263 CAUTION: This email originated from outside of the organization. Do not click links or open attachments unless you recognize the sender and know the content is safe. If you feel that the email is suspicious, please report it using PhishAlarm. Don?t know why you mess with there overdrives. Toyota 5 speeds are so much better. I have overdrive?s in the shed that I will never use. Carl > On Dec 30, 2021, at 11:09 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > ?Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to > triumphs at autox.team.net > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > > https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/tri > umphs__;!!Obbck6kTJA!P2hU41_ASwRU-sN77DDAytv3_7OzUMkGCNGthvAIUsziNW0jp > TnYvDqzxkrBK48$ or, via email, send a message with subject or body > 'help' to > triumphs-request at autox.team.net > > You can reach the person managing the list at > triumphs-owner at autox.team.net > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. gearbox reverse switch (auprichard uprichard.net) > 2. Re: gearbox reverse switch (David P) > 3. Re: gearbox reverse switch (auprichard uprichard.net) > 4. Re: gearbox reverse switch (auprichard uprichard.net) > 5. Re: gearbox reverse switch (Greg Gelhar) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2021 13:03:27 +0000 > From: auprichard uprichard.net > To: Triumphs > Subject: [TR] gearbox reverse switch > Message-ID: > > tlook.com> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Listers: > > For various reasons, I find I have to put a TR3 top cover in a TR250 - so I need to drill a hole for a reverse / back-up switch. > > Does anyone know the drill and tap sizes I should be using? Thanks in advance. > > Andrew Uprichard > Jackson, Michigan > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was > scrubbed... > URL: > attachments/20211230/8399b199/attachment-0001.htm__;!!Obbck6kTJA!P2hU4 > 1_ASwRU-sN77DDAytv3_7OzUMkGCNGthvAIUsziNW0jpTnYvDqzHGmEY7s$ > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2021 08:04:38 -0700 > From: David P > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] gearbox reverse switch > Message-ID: <241e512c-228a-5e4d-6b46-e344243c1df3 at porterscustom.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed" > > the switch is a 5/8ths x 13TPI > >> On 12/30/2021 6:03 AM, auprichard uprichard.net wrote: >> >> Listers: >> >> For various reasons, I find I have to put a TR3 top cover in a TR250 >> - so I need to drill a hole for a reverse / back-up switch. >> >> Does anyone know the drill and tap sizes I should be using? Thanks in >> advance. >> >> Andrew Uprichard >> >> Jackson, Michigan >> >> >> **triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate:https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://www.team.net/donate.html__;!!Obbck6kTJA!P2hU41_ASwRU-sN77DDAytv3_7OzUMkGCNGthvAIUsziNW0jpTnYvDqzs6BZ7p8$ >> Archive:https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs__;!!Obbck6kTJA!P2hU41_ASwRU-sN77DDAytv3_7OzUMkGCNGthvAIUsziNW0jpTnYvDqz2cWnUKk$ https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://www.team.net/archive__;!!Obbck6kTJA!P2hU41_ASwRU-sN77DDAytv3_7OzUMkGCNGthvAIUsziNW0jpTnYvDqzIXjExOc$ >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://autox.team.net/ >> mailman/options/triumphs/frogeye at porterscustom.com__;!!Obbck6kTJA!P2h >> U41_ASwRU-sN77DDAytv3_7OzUMkGCNGthvAIUsziNW0jpTnYvDqzyV1nMy4$ > > -- > Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 > My World go here:WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was > scrubbed... > URL: > attachments/20211230/7e257c90/attachment-0001.htm__;!!Obbck6kTJA!P2hU4 > 1_ASwRU-sN77DDAytv3_7OzUMkGCNGthvAIUsziNW0jpTnYvDqzo0cLc38$ > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 3 > Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2021 15:23:26 +0000 > From: auprichard uprichard.net > To: David P , "triumphs at autox.team.net" > > Subject: Re: [TR] gearbox reverse switch > Message-ID: > > tlook.com> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > I have just done a search and cannot find any mention of a 5/8 x 13 tpi. 5/8 x 11, 18 and 24 tpi are all readily available, and ? x 13, but no 5/8 x 13. > > Andrew > > From: Triumphs On Behalf Of David P > Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2021 10:05 AM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] gearbox reverse switch > > > the switch is a 5/8ths x 13TPI > On 12/30/2021 6:03 AM, auprichard uprichard.net wrote: > Listers: > > For various reasons, I find I have to put a TR3 top cover in a TR250 - so I need to drill a hole for a reverse / back-up switch. > > Does anyone know the drill and tap sizes I should be using? Thanks in advance. > > Andrew Uprichard > Jackson, Michigan > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > > > Donate: > https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://www.team.net/donate.html__;!!Obbck6 > kTJA!P2hU41_ASwRU-sN77DDAytv3_7OzUMkGCNGthvAIUsziNW0jpTnYvDqzs6BZ7p8$ > > Archive: https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs__;!!Obbck6kTJA!P2hU41_ASwRU-sN77DDAytv3_7OzUMkGCNGthvAIUsziNW0jpTnYvDqz2cWnUKk$ https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://www.team.net/archive__;!!Obbck6kTJA!P2hU41_ASwRU-sN77DDAytv3_7OzUMkGCNGthvAIUsziNW0jpTnYvDqzIXjExOc$ > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triu > mphs/frogeye at porterscustom.com__;!!Obbck6kTJA!P2hU41_ASwRU-sN77DDAytv3 > _7OzUMkGCNGthvAIUsziNW0jpTnYvDqzyV1nMy4$ > > -- > > Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 > My World go here: > https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/__;!!Obbck6kTJA > !P2hU41_ASwRU-sN77DDAytv3_7OzUMkGCNGthvAIUsziNW0jpTnYvDqzPJ-PuNU$ > A!P2hU41_ASwRU-sN77DDAytv3_7OzUMkGCNGthvAIUsziNW0jpTnYvDqzPJ-PuNU$ > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was > scrubbed... > URL: > attachments/20211230/4c57c195/attachment-0001.htm__;!!Obbck6kTJA!P2hU4 > 1_ASwRU-sN77DDAytv3_7OzUMkGCNGthvAIUsziNW0jpTnYvDqzNH76Si8$ > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 4 > Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2021 15:40:37 +0000 > From: auprichard uprichard.net > To: David P , "triumphs at autox.team.net" > > Subject: Re: [TR] gearbox reverse switch > Message-ID: > > tlook.com> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > I was just referred to a Buckeye triumph article which suggested a 16 x 2 mm tap works. Found one fairly easily. Thanks for everyone?s help! > > Happy New Year! > > Andrew > > From: auprichard uprichard.net > Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2021 10:23 AM > To: David P ; triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: RE: [TR] gearbox reverse switch > > I have just done a search and cannot find any mention of a 5/8 x 13 tpi. 5/8 x 11, 18 and 24 tpi are all readily available, and ? x 13, but no 5/8 x 13. > > Andrew > > From: Triumphs > t>> On Behalf Of David P > Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2021 10:05 AM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] gearbox reverse switch > > > the switch is a 5/8ths x 13TPI > On 12/30/2021 6:03 AM, auprichard uprichard.net wrote: > Listers: > > For various reasons, I find I have to put a TR3 top cover in a TR250 - so I need to drill a hole for a reverse / back-up switch. > > Does anyone know the drill and tap sizes I should be using? Thanks in advance. > > Andrew Uprichard > Jackson, Michigan > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > > > Donate: > https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://www.team.net/donate.html__;!!Obbck6 > kTJA!P2hU41_ASwRU-sN77DDAytv3_7OzUMkGCNGthvAIUsziNW0jpTnYvDqzs6BZ7p8$ > > Archive: https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs__;!!Obbck6kTJA!P2hU41_ASwRU-sN77DDAytv3_7OzUMkGCNGthvAIUsziNW0jpTnYvDqz2cWnUKk$ https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://www.team.net/archive__;!!Obbck6kTJA!P2hU41_ASwRU-sN77DDAytv3_7OzUMkGCNGthvAIUsziNW0jpTnYvDqzIXjExOc$ > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triu > mphs/frogeye at porterscustom.com__;!!Obbck6kTJA!P2hU41_ASwRU-sN77DDAytv3 > _7OzUMkGCNGthvAIUsziNW0jpTnYvDqzyV1nMy4$ > > -- > > Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 > My World go here: > https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/__;!!Obbck6kTJA > !P2hU41_ASwRU-sN77DDAytv3_7OzUMkGCNGthvAIUsziNW0jpTnYvDqzPJ-PuNU$ > A!P2hU41_ASwRU-sN77DDAytv3_7OzUMkGCNGthvAIUsziNW0jpTnYvDqzPJ-PuNU$ > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was > scrubbed... > URL: > attachments/20211230/1eff1daf/attachment-0001.htm__;!!Obbck6kTJA!P2hU4 > 1_ASwRU-sN77DDAytv3_7OzUMkGCNGthvAIUsziNW0jpTnYvDqzcRubq3s$ > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 5 > Date: Thu, 30 Dec 2021 11:33:36 -0600 > From: "Greg Gelhar" > To: "'auprichard uprichard.net'" , > "'Triumphs'" > Subject: Re: [TR] gearbox reverse switch > Message-ID: <000001d7fda3$61c9f140$255dd3c0$@gelhar.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Yet another place you will find metric threads on a TR. M16 x 2.0 tap, > 14mm drill. > > > > From: Triumphs On Behalf Of > auprichard uprichard.net > Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2021 7:03 AM > To: Triumphs > Subject: [TR] gearbox reverse switch > > > > Listers: > > > > For various reasons, I find I have to put a TR3 top cover in a TR250 - > so I need to drill a hole for a reverse / back-up switch. > > Does anyone know the drill and tap sizes I should be using? Thanks in > advance. > > > > Andrew Uprichard > > Jackson, Michigan > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was > scrubbed... > URL: > attachments/20211230/290e0938/attachment-0001.htm__;!!Obbck6kTJA!P2hU4 > 1_ASwRU-sN77DDAytv3_7OzUMkGCNGthvAIUsziNW0jpTnYvDqzBFu1TO8$ > > > ------------------------------ > > Subject: Digest Footer > > _______________________________________________ > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/tri > umphs__;!!Obbck6kTJA!P2hU41_ASwRU-sN77DDAytv3_7OzUMkGCNGthvAIUsziNW0jp > TnYvDqzxkrBK48$ > > > ------------------------------ > > End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 14, Issue 263 > ***************************************** ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://www.team.net/donate.html__;!!Obbck6kTJA!P2hU41_ASwRU-sN77DDAytv3_7OzUMkGCNGthvAIUsziNW0jpTnYvDqzs6BZ7p8$ Archive: https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs__;!!Obbck6kTJA!P2hU41_ASwRU-sN77DDAytv3_7OzUMkGCNGthvAIUsziNW0jpTnYvDqz2cWnUKk$ https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://www.team.net/archive__;!!Obbck6kTJA!P2hU41_ASwRU-sN77DDAytv3_7OzUMkGCNGthvAIUsziNW0jpTnYvDqzIXjExOc$ Unsubscribe/Manage: https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/davidt at opentext.com__;!!Obbck6kTJA!P2hU41_ASwRU-sN77DDAytv3_7OzUMkGCNGthvAIUsziNW0jpTnYvDqzNUn_0OM$ From johnbmacartney at gmx.com Fri Dec 31 13:00:10 2021 From: johnbmacartney at gmx.com (John Macartney) Date: Fri, 31 Dec 2021 20:00:10 +0000 Subject: [TR] Drive your Triumph Day - 10 Feb Message-ID: <62309326-71E5-49A4-B5D8-0B21B30E83A5@gmx.com> For those of us on the other side of the pond who aren?t so well versed on North American automotive festivals (me specifically), is DYTD the same as Sir John Blacks birthday drive? If so, I have an excellent photograph of him that I?m happy to attach to a post to this list - assuming attachments are permissible. They used not to be but maybe things have changed? It occurs to me that those doing the birthday drive might want to print the pic I have, laminate it and attach it to their car with some cable ties or tape for the event. If I can?t send attachments but you?d still like the pic, email me at johnbmacartney at gmx.com and write SIR JOHN BLACK photo in the subject line. Please don?t reply with a post to the list. I?m in digest mode and might miss it. Happy New Year everyone Jonmac Is the latest definition of being ?learned and well-informed? letting the world see on your ?Teams? and ?Zoom? meetings that you have a book-lined study full of titles that are all illegible but nonetheless imply you know what you?re talking about. From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Fri Dec 31 14:54:26 2021 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Fri, 31 Dec 2021 21:54:26 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Drive your Triumph Day - 10 Feb In-Reply-To: <62309326-71E5-49A4-B5D8-0B21B30E83A5@gmx.com> References: <62309326-71E5-49A4-B5D8-0B21B30E83A5@gmx.com> Message-ID: <1165913564.413849.1640987666722@mail.yahoo.com> hi johnyou can make attachments now.and yes ill take a picturethanksFranka scouse in california On Friday, December 31, 2021, 12:00:51 PM PST, John Macartney wrote: For those of us on the other side of the pond who aren?t so well versed on North American automotive festivals (me specifically), is DYTD the same as Sir John Blacks birthday drive? If so, I have an excellent photograph of him that I?m happy to attach to a post to this list - assuming attachments are permissible. They used not to be but maybe things have changed? It occurs to me that those doing the birthday drive might want to print the pic I have, laminate it and attach it to their car with some cable ties or tape for the event. If I can?t send attachments but you?d still like the pic, email me at johnbmacartney at gmx.com and write SIR JOHN BLACK photo in the subject line. Please don?t reply with a post to the list. I?m in digest mode and might miss it. Happy New Year everyone Jonmac Is the latest definition of being ?learned and well-informed? letting the world see on your ?Teams? and ?Zoom? meetings that you have a book-lined study full of titles that are all illegible but nonetheless imply you know what you?re talking about. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: