From fishplate at gmail.com  Tue Sep  1 06:08:58 2020
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2020 08:08:58 -0400
Subject: [TR] Hoses to carbon canister for Triumphs similar to that,
 used on a TR6 (Sujit Roy)
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaFyH0U4gePwBn1csjB_FATSckCydYdaVxrWDo0JtziYrg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <dc52f8a4-524e-15a9-77d2-684b260c8cdb.ref@att.net>
 <dc52f8a4-524e-15a9-77d2-684b260c8cdb@att.net>
 <CANLCLaE-5oLZR1svgq1dQFCSBqwwgAJKA5iFNN6UyCMsPXQbCw@mail.gmail.com>
 <868235020.6600500.1598619784180@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CANLCLaFyH0U4gePwBn1csjB_FATSckCydYdaVxrWDo0JtziYrg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAO8Q7CNVbufbXczCHqD7pJRfWoiXTAuCGom9rYCCQnKZg+s5GA@mail.gmail.com>

Could it be that the California cars had two canisters?

On Fri, Aug 28, 2020 at 11:50 AM Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com> wrote:

> I think but am not sure that the '71 Stag originally came with a canister
> with 2 ports. But unfortunately, know one has confirmed. In some of the
> manuals and parts books, there are illustrations of the Stag having 2
> 2-port canisters.
> Stag no1 has a carburetor swap to a later Mk2 set. The Mk2 2 Stag has a
> 3-port canister. The ports on this type are vertical. I was able to find a
> 3 port canister from a junkyard. It came out of an MGB. THis canister
> didn't have a restrictor.
> Sujit
>
> On Fri, Aug 28, 2020 at 6:03 AM DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:
>
>> Interesting.  The early TR6 (without Anti-Run-On valve) didn't have this
>> restrictor.  Nor did it have the third port for the hoses that go to the
>> top of the float chambers.  These were added to support the Anti-Run-On
>> valve.  But if the Stag doesn't have the Anti-Run-On valve why did they
>> use this canister?  I guess they used what was on the shelf at the time
>> which is the part used on the TR6 at the time.
>>
>> Dave
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com>
>> To: Q <HDRider570 at att.net>
>> Cc: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Thu, Aug 27, 2020 9:52 pm
>> Subject: Re: [TR] Hoses to carbon canister for Triumphs similar to that,
>> used on a TR6 (Sujit Roy)
>>
>> Thanks Edward. Yes the middle one to the valve cover. Small piece of
>> plastic with a small hole in it.
>>
>> On Thu, Aug 27, 2020, 11:44 AM Q <HDRider570 at att.net> wrote:
>>
>> There is a flow reducer bushing placed into one of the canister ports
>> that is often missing.?? I don't remember which port but it is shown of
>> the parts diagram.
>>
>>
>> Edward Hamer
>>
>> Petaluma CA
>>
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumphstag at gmail.com
>>
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com
>>
>
>
> --
> Sujit Roy
> Cupertino, California
>
> https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fishplate at gmail.com
>
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From greg at gregoryd.com  Tue Sep  1 06:54:47 2020
From: greg at gregoryd.com (Greg)
Date: Tue, 01 Sep 2020 08:54:47 -0400
Subject: [TR] 9. Wire wheel repair NYC/Tri-state area (Greg)
In-Reply-To: <831874939.763314.1598899212068@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <mailman.7.1598896801.1662.triumphs@autox.team.net>
 <831874939.763314.1598899212068@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8D966BE3-8173-4C5D-9298-8F6D09763F5F@gregoryd.com>

Thanks Ann.

 

Good to know about that shop. ?They?re fairly close.

 

It seems that Hendrix Wheel might be a good option also, and worth the shipping costs, since they do a lot of wire wheel work.

 

--Greg

 

From: Ann Carletta <anncarletta at yahoo.com>
Date: Monday, August 31, 2020 at 2:40 PM
To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" <triumphs at autox.team.net>, "greg at gregoryd.com" <greg at gregoryd.com>
Subject: 9. Wire wheel repair NYC/Tri-state area (Greg)

 

HI Greg,

 

You can try Log Cabin Auto Services in Tenafly,NJ  201-567-6297.  

 

They replaced my tires on wire wheels for the TR3 a few years ago, so maybe they can do the wheels as well.  Was tough to find someone to do the tires as no one had the machine for the tubes.  They knew what they were doing and I would use them again.

 

Ann

 

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 2020 13:44:49 -0400

From: Greg <greg at gregoryd.com>

To: Triumphs <Triumphs at autox.team.net>

Subject: [TR] Wire wheel repair NYC/Tri-state area

Message-ID: <768FCED9-98A7-4ADA-A13A-5EBCB7E87E29 at gregoryd.com>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

 

Greetings,

 

 

 

I just discovered two broken spokes in one of the wire wheels on my TR4A.

 

 

 

(I now have a better understanding of Jim?s desire to move on from wire wheels.)

 

 

 

Although I?m capable of repairing the spokes and truing the wheel, I?d certainly consider paying someone else to do it.

 

 

 

Does anyone have a reference for someone who works on wire wheels in the New York City/Tri-state area?

 

 

 

--Greg

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From anncarletta at yahoo.com  Tue Sep  1 08:03:57 2020
From: anncarletta at yahoo.com (Ann Carletta)
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2020 14:03:57 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] 9. Wire wheel repair NYC/Tri-state area (Greg)
In-Reply-To: <8D966BE3-8173-4C5D-9298-8F6D09763F5F@gregoryd.com>
References: <mailman.7.1598896801.1662.triumphs@autox.team.net>
 <831874939.763314.1598899212068@mail.yahoo.com>
 <8D966BE3-8173-4C5D-9298-8F6D09763F5F@gregoryd.com>
Message-ID: <1290364220.1085984.1598969037798@mail.yahoo.com>

 Hi Greg,
Thanks for the info on Hendrix Wheel.? Will keep in on file.
If Tenafly is close, maybe we're neighbors.? I'm in Edgewater.? If you have the car out for a drive one day, stop by.
Ann
    On Tuesday, September 1, 2020, 08:54:52 AM EDT, Greg <greg at gregoryd.com> wrote:  
 
 
Thanks Ann.

 ?

Good to know about that shop. ?They?re fairly close.

 ?

It seems that Hendrix Wheel might be a good option also, and worth the shipping costs, since they do a lot of wire wheel work.

 ?

--Greg

 ?

From: Ann Carletta <anncarletta at yahoo.com>
Date: Monday, August 31, 2020 at 2:40 PM
To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" <triumphs at autox.team.net>, "greg at gregoryd.com" <greg at gregoryd.com>
Subject: 9. Wire wheel repair NYC/Tri-state area (Greg)

 ?

HI Greg,

 ?

You can try Log Cabin Auto Services in Tenafly,NJ? 201-567-6297.??

 ?

They replaced my tires on wire wheels for the TR3 a few years ago, so maybe they can do the wheels as well.? Was tough to find someone to do the tires as no one had the machine for the tubes.? They knew what they were doing and I would use them again.

 ?

Ann

 ?

Date: Mon, 31 Aug 2020 13:44:49 -0400

From: Greg <greg at gregoryd.com>

To: Triumphs <Triumphs at autox.team.net>

Subject: [TR] Wire wheel repair NYC/Tri-state area

Message-ID: <768FCED9-98A7-4ADA-A13A-5EBCB7E87E29 at gregoryd.com>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

 ?

Greetings,

 ?

 ?

 ?

I just discovered two broken spokes in one of the wire wheels on my TR4A.

 ?

 ?

 ?

(I now have a better understanding of Jim?s desire to move on from wire wheels.)

 ?

 ?

 ?

Although I?m capable of repairing the spokes and truing the wheel, I?d certainly consider paying someone else to do it.

 ?

 ?

 ?

Does anyone have a reference for someone who works on wire wheels in the New York City/Tri-state area?

 ?

 ?

 ?

--Greg
  
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From trguy75 at gmail.com  Tue Sep  1 09:37:10 2020
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen)
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2020 11:37:10 -0400
Subject: [TR] Wheel Stud Question
Message-ID: <043b01d68075$c2ca86f0$485f94d0$@gmail.com>

Can you replace the shorter wire wheel studs with the longer standard wheel
studs on the front and rear without having to separate the hubs?  I haven't
done this in a long time and curious if you can switch these outs easily on
a 67 TR4A IRS.
Thanks,
Jim Henningsen
Ocala, FL


From auprichard at uprichard.net  Tue Sep  1 10:05:03 2020
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (auprichard at uprichard.net)
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2020 12:05:03 -0400
Subject: [TR] Wheel Stud Question
In-Reply-To: <043b01d68075$c2ca86f0$485f94d0$@gmail.com>
References: <043b01d68075$c2ca86f0$485f94d0$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000201d68079$a79730f0$f6c592d0$@uprichard.net>

You can / I have on a TR3 so I imagine it'll be identical for the TR4.  As I
remember the front were press in and the rear screw in - but don't hold me
to that!

Andrew Uprichard
Jackson, Michigan

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Jim Henningsen
Sent: Tuesday, September 1, 2020 11:37 AM
To: 'Triumphs' <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Wheel Stud Question

Can you replace the shorter wire wheel studs with the longer standard wheel
studs on the front and rear without having to separate the hubs?  I haven't
done this in a long time and curious if you can switch these outs easily on
a 67 TR4A IRS.
Thanks,
Jim Henningsen
Ocala, FL

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Sep  1 10:24:08 2020
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2020 16:24:08 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Hoses to carbon canister for Triumphs similar to that,
 used on a TR6 (Sujit Roy)
In-Reply-To: <CAO8Q7CNVbufbXczCHqD7pJRfWoiXTAuCGom9rYCCQnKZg+s5GA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <dc52f8a4-524e-15a9-77d2-684b260c8cdb.ref@att.net>
 <dc52f8a4-524e-15a9-77d2-684b260c8cdb@att.net>
 <CANLCLaE-5oLZR1svgq1dQFCSBqwwgAJKA5iFNN6UyCMsPXQbCw@mail.gmail.com>
 <868235020.6600500.1598619784180@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CANLCLaFyH0U4gePwBn1csjB_FATSckCydYdaVxrWDo0JtziYrg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAO8Q7CNVbufbXczCHqD7pJRfWoiXTAuCGom9rYCCQnKZg+s5GA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1195122774.1147906.1598977448817@mail.yahoo.com>

 Could be.? The TR7 and TR8 both have two canisters but that was later on in the decade as emissions regulations tightened more and more.
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate at gmail.com>
To: Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com>; Triumphs (triumphs at autox.team.net) <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Sep 1, 2020 7:08 am
Subject: Re: [TR] Hoses to carbon canister for Triumphs similar to that, used on a TR6 (Sujit Roy)

Could it be that the California cars had two canisters?
On Fri, Aug 28, 2020 at 11:50 AM Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com> wrote:

I think but am not sure that the '71 Stag originally came with a canister with 2 ports. But unfortunately, know one has confirmed. In some of the manuals and parts books, there are illustrations of the Stag having 2 2-port canisters.Stag no1 has a carburetor?swap to a later Mk2 set. The Mk2 2 Stag has a 3-port canister. The ports on this type?are vertical. I was able to find?a 3 port canister from a junkyard. It came out of an MGB. THis canister didn't have a restrictor.Sujit
On Fri, Aug 28, 2020 at 6:03 AM DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:

 Interesting.? The early TR6 (without Anti-Run-On valve) didn't have this restrictor.? Nor did it have the third port for the hoses that go to the top of the float chambers.? These were added to support the Anti-Run-On valve.? But if the Stag doesn't have the Anti-Run-On valve why did they use this canister?? I guess they used what was on the shelf at the time which is the part used on the TR6 at the time.
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com>
To: Q <HDRider570 at att.net>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, Aug 27, 2020 9:52 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] Hoses to carbon canister for Triumphs similar to that, used on a TR6 (Sujit Roy)

Thanks Edward. Yes the middle one to the valve cover. Small piece of plastic with a small hole in it.?
On Thu, Aug 27, 2020, 11:44 AM Q <HDRider570 at att.net> wrote:

There is a flow reducer bushing placed into one of the canister ports 
that is often missing.?? I don't remember which port but it is shown of 
the parts diagram.


Edward Hamer

Petaluma CA

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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-- 
Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California
https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From deruiterville at hotmail.com  Tue Sep  1 11:23:54 2020
From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter)
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2020 17:23:54 +0000
Subject: [TR] Wheel Stud Question
In-Reply-To: <043b01d68075$c2ca86f0$485f94d0$@gmail.com>
References: <043b01d68075$c2ca86f0$485f94d0$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DM6PR19MB313032EC687DF4C2B42D9288B92E0@DM6PR19MB3130.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>

Jim-

The 4A has press in studs front and back as on a TR6 - I did the same for my TR6.  For the back yes, no need to remove hub.  For the front, I'm fairly sure I had to take the rotor off to put longer studs in.  More involved but pretty easy.

Randy

________________________________
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Jim Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 1, 2020 10:37 AM
To: 'Triumphs' <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Wheel Stud Question

Can you replace the shorter wire wheel studs with the longer standard wheel
studs on the front and rear without having to separate the hubs?  I haven't
done this in a long time and curious if you can switch these outs easily on
a 67 TR4A IRS.
Thanks,
Jim Henningsen
Ocala, FL

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Tue Sep  1 11:46:38 2020
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2020 13:46:38 -0400
Subject: [TR] Wheel Stud Question
In-Reply-To: <DM6PR19MB313032EC687DF4C2B42D9288B92E0@DM6PR19MB3130.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
References: <043b01d68075$c2ca86f0$485f94d0$@gmail.com>
 <DM6PR19MB313032EC687DF4C2B42D9288B92E0@DM6PR19MB3130.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <11C455DB58074A71A4CE2874E8A2C347@VlackTK121647>

Randy is correct, I did it on my 66 IRS TR4A. Rotors need to come off the front hubs but rears can be done on the car. I assume you are doing this to replace wire wheels with solid wheels and you should as there is not enough thread length for solid wheels on wire wheel hubs.
JVV
TR4A for 51 years

From: Randy and Valerie DeRuiter 
Sent: Tuesday, September 1, 2020 1:23 PM
To: Jim Henningsen ; 'Triumphs' 
Subject: Re: [TR] Wheel Stud Question

Jim-

The 4A has press in studs front and back as on a TR6 - I did the same for my TR6.  For the back yes, no need to remove hub.  For the front, I'm fairly sure I had to take the rotor off to put longer studs in.  More involved but pretty easy.

Randy


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Jim Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 1, 2020 10:37 AM
To: 'Triumphs' <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Wheel Stud Question 

Can you replace the shorter wire wheel studs with the longer standard wheel
studs on the front and rear without having to separate the hubs?  I haven't
done this in a long time and curious if you can switch these outs easily on
a 67 TR4A IRS.
Thanks,
Jim Henningsen
Ocala, FL

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From trguy75 at gmail.com  Tue Sep  1 12:43:11 2020
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen)
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2020 14:43:11 -0400
Subject: [TR] Wheel Stud Question
In-Reply-To: <11C455DB58074A71A4CE2874E8A2C347@VlackTK121647>
References: <043b01d68075$c2ca86f0$485f94d0$@gmail.com>
 <DM6PR19MB313032EC687DF4C2B42D9288B92E0@DM6PR19MB3130.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
 <11C455DB58074A71A4CE2874E8A2C347@VlackTK121647>
Message-ID: <007a01d6808f$bf377650$3da662f0$@gmail.com>

Thanks all.  I found two new sets of solid wheel studs in my parts stash and
was able to remove a stud on a spare used tr6 axle with a small sledge
hammer with moderate waps (technical).  Came out easy peesy.   

Jim Henningsen

 

From: Jerry Van Vlack <jerryvv at roadrunner.com> 
Sent: Tuesday, September 01, 2020 1:47 PM
To: Randy and Valerie DeRuiter <deruiterville at hotmail.com>; Jim Henningsen
<trguy75 at gmail.com>; 'Triumphs' <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Wheel Stud Question

 

Randy is correct, I did it on my 66 IRS TR4A. Rotors need to come off the
front hubs but rears can be done on the car. I assume you are doing this to
replace wire wheels with solid wheels and you should as there is not enough
thread length for solid wheels on wire wheel hubs.

JVV

TR4A for 51 years

 

From: Randy and Valerie DeRuiter 

Sent: Tuesday, September 1, 2020 1:23 PM

To: Jim Henningsen ; 'Triumphs' 

Subject: Re: [TR] Wheel Stud Question

 

Jim-

 

The 4A has press in studs front and back as on a TR6 - I did the same for my
TR6.  For the back yes, no need to remove hub.  For the front, I'm fairly
sure I had to take the rotor off to put longer studs in.  More involved but
pretty easy.

 

Randy

 

  _____  

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
<mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> > on behalf of Jim Henningsen
<trguy75 at gmail.com <mailto:trguy75 at gmail.com> >
Sent: Tuesday, September 1, 2020 10:37 AM
To: 'Triumphs' <triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> >
Subject: [TR] Wheel Stud Question 

 

Can you replace the shorter wire wheel studs with the longer standard wheel
studs on the front and rear without having to separate the hubs?  I haven't
done this in a long time and curious if you can switch these outs easily on
a 67 TR4A IRS.
Thanks,
Jim Henningsen
Ocala, FL

** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>  **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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  _____  

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From triumphstag at gmail.com  Tue Sep  1 14:45:59 2020
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2020 13:45:59 -0700
Subject: [TR] Hoses to carbon canister for Triumphs similar to that,
 used on a TR6 (Sujit Roy)
In-Reply-To: <1195122774.1147906.1598977448817@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <dc52f8a4-524e-15a9-77d2-684b260c8cdb.ref@att.net>
 <dc52f8a4-524e-15a9-77d2-684b260c8cdb@att.net>
 <CANLCLaE-5oLZR1svgq1dQFCSBqwwgAJKA5iFNN6UyCMsPXQbCw@mail.gmail.com>
 <868235020.6600500.1598619784180@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CANLCLaFyH0U4gePwBn1csjB_FATSckCydYdaVxrWDo0JtziYrg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAO8Q7CNVbufbXczCHqD7pJRfWoiXTAuCGom9rYCCQnKZg+s5GA@mail.gmail.com>
 <1195122774.1147906.1598977448817@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CANLCLaGfDZ4kOd_2fWSc6esb9q_mQuFLHUZdPB4ej5dPMN1WQg@mail.gmail.com>

I think the 2 canister versions were for the '72 model Stag and not many
came to the US because of strikes at the factory ( That's what someone
said)
The 2 version one is illustrated in the Stag Parts Book.
DIdn't all Triumph come with some sticker saying California compliance for
emissions or something like that?
Sujit

On Tue, Sep 1, 2020 at 9:24 AM DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:

> Could be.  The TR7 and TR8 both have two canisters but that was later on
> in the decade as emissions regulations tightened more and more.
>
> Dave
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate at gmail.com>
> To: Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com>; Triumphs (triumphs at autox.team.net)
> <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tue, Sep 1, 2020 7:08 am
> Subject: Re: [TR] Hoses to carbon canister for Triumphs similar to that,
> used on a TR6 (Sujit Roy)
>
> Could it be that the California cars had two canisters?
>
> On Fri, Aug 28, 2020 at 11:50 AM Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I think but am not sure that the '71 Stag originally came with a canister
> with 2 ports. But unfortunately, know one has confirmed. In some of the
> manuals and parts books, there are illustrations of the Stag having 2
> 2-port canisters.
> Stag no1 has a carburetor swap to a later Mk2 set. The Mk2 2 Stag has a
> 3-port canister. The ports on this type are vertical. I was able to find a
> 3 port canister from a junkyard. It came out of an MGB. THis canister
> didn't have a restrictor.
> Sujit
>
> On Fri, Aug 28, 2020 at 6:03 AM DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:
>
> Interesting.  The early TR6 (without Anti-Run-On valve) didn't have this
> restrictor.  Nor did it have the third port for the hoses that go to the
> top of the float chambers.  These were added to support the Anti-Run-On
> valve.  But if the Stag doesn't have the Anti-Run-On valve why did they
> use this canister?  I guess they used what was on the shelf at the time
> which is the part used on the TR6 at the time.
>
> Dave
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com>
> To: Q <HDRider570 at att.net>
> Cc: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thu, Aug 27, 2020 9:52 pm
> Subject: Re: [TR] Hoses to carbon canister for Triumphs similar to that,
> used on a TR6 (Sujit Roy)
>
> Thanks Edward. Yes the middle one to the valve cover. Small piece of
> plastic with a small hole in it.
>
> On Thu, Aug 27, 2020, 11:44 AM Q <HDRider570 at att.net> wrote:
>
> There is a flow reducer bushing placed into one of the canister ports
> that is often missing.?? I don't remember which port but it is shown of
> the parts diagram.
>
>
> Edward Hamer
>
> Petaluma CA
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumphstag at gmail.com
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com
>
>
>
> --
> Sujit Roy
> Cupertino, California
>
> https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fishplate at gmail.com
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com
>


-- 
Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California

https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
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From jmitch at snet.net  Tue Sep  1 17:00:21 2020
From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell)
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2020 19:00:21 -0400
Subject: [TR] Hoses to carbon canister for Triumphs similar to that,
 used on a TR6 (Sujit Roy)
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaGfDZ4kOd_2fWSc6esb9q_mQuFLHUZdPB4ej5dPMN1WQg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <dc52f8a4-524e-15a9-77d2-684b260c8cdb.ref@att.net>
 <dc52f8a4-524e-15a9-77d2-684b260c8cdb@att.net>
 <CANLCLaE-5oLZR1svgq1dQFCSBqwwgAJKA5iFNN6UyCMsPXQbCw@mail.gmail.com>
 <868235020.6600500.1598619784180@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CANLCLaFyH0U4gePwBn1csjB_FATSckCydYdaVxrWDo0JtziYrg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAO8Q7CNVbufbXczCHqD7pJRfWoiXTAuCGom9rYCCQnKZg+s5GA@mail.gmail.com>
 <1195122774.1147906.1598977448817@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CANLCLaGfDZ4kOd_2fWSc6esb9q_mQuFLHUZdPB4ej5dPMN1WQg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8aa78c30-67c9-2c57-2ae8-2a7c7940c763@snet.net>

I have a 72 and cannot find any indication that a second canister was 
ever mounted.

On 9/1/2020 4:45 PM, Sujit Roy wrote:
> I think the 2 canister versions were for the '72 model Stag and not 
> many came to the US because?of strikes at the factory ( That's what 
> someone said)
> The 2 version one is illustrated in the Stag Parts Book.
> DIdn't all Triumph?come with some sticker saying California compliance 
> for emissions?or something like that?
> Sujit
>
> On Tue, Sep 1, 2020 at 9:24 AM DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com 
> <mailto:dave1massey at cs.com>> wrote:
>
>     Could be.? The TR7 and TR8 both have two canisters but that was
>     later on in the decade as emissions regulations tightened more and
>     more.
>
>     Dave
>
>
>
>     -----Original Message-----
>     From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate at gmail.com
>     <mailto:fishplate at gmail.com>>
>     To: Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com
>     <mailto:triumphstag at gmail.com>>; Triumphs (triumphs at autox.team.net
>     <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>) <triumphs at autox.team.net
>     <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>>
>     Sent: Tue, Sep 1, 2020 7:08 am
>     Subject: Re: [TR] Hoses to carbon canister for Triumphs similar to
>     that, used on a TR6 (Sujit Roy)
>
>     Could it be that the California cars had two canisters?
>
>     On Fri, Aug 28, 2020 at 11:50 AM Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com
>     <mailto:triumphstag at gmail.com>> wrote:
>
>         I think but am not sure that the '71 Stag originally came with
>         a canister with 2 ports. But unfortunately, know one has
>         confirmed. In some of the manuals and parts books, there are
>         illustrations of the Stag having 2 2-port canisters.
>         Stag no1 has a carburetor?swap to a later Mk2 set. The Mk2 2
>         Stag has a 3-port canister. The ports on this type?are
>         vertical. I was able to find?a 3 port canister from a
>         junkyard. It came out of an MGB. THis canister didn't have a
>         restrictor.
>         Sujit
>
>         On Fri, Aug 28, 2020 at 6:03 AM DAVID MASSEY
>         <dave1massey at cs.com <mailto:dave1massey at cs.com>> wrote:
>
>             Interesting.? The early TR6 (without Anti-Run-On valve)
>             didn't have this restrictor.? Nor did it have the third
>             port for the hoses that go to the top of the float
>             chambers. These were added to support the Anti-Run-On
>             valve.? But if the Stag doesn't have the Anti-Run-On valve
>             why did they use this canister? I guess they used what was
>             on the shelf at the time which is the part used on the TR6
>             at the time.
>
>             Dave
>
>
>
>             -----Original Message-----
>             From: Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com
>             <mailto:triumphstag at gmail.com>>
>             To: Q <HDRider570 at att.net <mailto:HDRider570 at att.net>>
>             Cc: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net
>             <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>>
>             Sent: Thu, Aug 27, 2020 9:52 pm
>             Subject: Re: [TR] Hoses to carbon canister for Triumphs
>             similar to that, used on a TR6 (Sujit Roy)
>
>             Thanks Edward. Yes the middle one to the valve cover.
>             Small piece of plastic with a small hole in it.
>
>             On Thu, Aug 27, 2020, 11:44 AM Q <HDRider570 at att.net
>             <mailto:HDRider570 at att.net>> wrote:
>
>                 There is a flow reducer bushing placed into one of the
>                 canister ports
>                 that is often missing.?? I don't remember which port
>                 but it is shown of
>                 the parts diagram.
>
>
>                 Edward Hamer
>
>                 Petaluma CA
>
>                 ** triumphs at autox.team.net
>                 <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **
>
>                 Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>                 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
>                 http://www.team.net/archive
>
>                 Unsubscribe/Manage:
>                 http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumphstag at gmail.com
>
>
>             ** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **
>
>             Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>             Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
>             http://www.team.net/archive
>
>             Unsubscribe/Manage:
>             http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com
>
>
>
>         -- 
>         Sujit Roy
>         Cupertino, California
>
>         https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
>
>
>         ** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **
>
>         Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>         Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
>         http://www.team.net/archive
>
>         Unsubscribe/Manage:
>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fishplate at gmail.com
>
>
>     ** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **
>
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
>     http://www.team.net/archive
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com
>
>
>
> -- 
> Sujit Roy
> Cupertino, California
>
> https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jmitch at snet.net
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From triumphstag at gmail.com  Tue Sep  1 21:21:22 2020
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2020 20:21:22 -0700
Subject: [TR] Hoses to carbon canister for Triumphs similar to that,
 used on a TR6 (Sujit Roy)
In-Reply-To: <CAOp9YTKYxwyZjw-vBbQfYRt6pYo2f2Xi4brwup9a7r16AQ=6eQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <dc52f8a4-524e-15a9-77d2-684b260c8cdb.ref@att.net>
 <dc52f8a4-524e-15a9-77d2-684b260c8cdb@att.net>
 <CANLCLaE-5oLZR1svgq1dQFCSBqwwgAJKA5iFNN6UyCMsPXQbCw@mail.gmail.com>
 <868235020.6600500.1598619784180@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CANLCLaFyH0U4gePwBn1csjB_FATSckCydYdaVxrWDo0JtziYrg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAO8Q7CNVbufbXczCHqD7pJRfWoiXTAuCGom9rYCCQnKZg+s5GA@mail.gmail.com>
 <1195122774.1147906.1598977448817@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CANLCLaGfDZ4kOd_2fWSc6esb9q_mQuFLHUZdPB4ej5dPMN1WQg@mail.gmail.com>
 <8aa78c30-67c9-2c57-2ae8-2a7c7940c763@snet.net>
 <CAOp9YTKYxwyZjw-vBbQfYRt6pYo2f2Xi4brwup9a7r16AQ=6eQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANLCLaFYAtGoziTb-wjoBgtOp1KHJXjwvVn5k0p7W1hNCwE6Ww@mail.gmail.com>

That's good to hear. Ur 72 has a mk2 radiator was that standard. I thought
that came with mk2 73 year models

On Tue, Sep 1, 2020, 7:07 PM Michael Burdick <salty1249y at gmail.com> wrote:

> My ?72 has two canisters and from what I can tell, it came that way. I
> bought the car in 1996 from the second owner who bought it it 1978. At the
> time of my purchase, he told me that he had done nothing but maintenance
> and that the previous (first) owner told him the same. For what that?s
> worth, it seems to support that the two canisters were always there. I had
> the attached pic on my phone showing the two canisters - if there is
> interest, I can easily take more detailed pics of how they are installed.
>
> Best regards,
> Mike Burdick in Illinois
>
>
> On Tue, Sep 1, 2020 at 6:00 PM John Mitchell <jmitch at snet.net> wrote:
>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> I have a 72 and cannot find any indication that a second canister
>>
>> was ever mounted.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On 9/1/2020 4:45 PM, Sujit Roy wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> I think the 2 canister versions were for the '72
>>
>> model Stag and not many came to the US because of strikes at the
>>
>> factory ( That's what someone said)
>>
>> The 2 version one is illustrated in the Stag Parts Book.
>>
>>
>> DIdn't all Triumph come with some sticker saying California
>>
>> compliance for emissions or something like that?
>>
>>
>> Sujit
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Sep 1, 2020 at 9:24 AM
>>
>> DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Could be.  The TR7 and TR8 both have
>>>
>>> two canisters but that was later on in the decade as
>>>
>>> emissions regulations tightened more and more.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Dave
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -----Original
>>>
>>> Message-----
>>>
>>>
>>> From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate at gmail.com>
>>>
>>>
>>> To: Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com>;
>>>
>>> Triumphs (triumphs at autox.team.net)
>>>
>>> <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>>>
>>>
>>> Sent: Tue, Sep 1, 2020 7:08 am
>>>
>>>
>>> Subject: Re: [TR] Hoses to carbon canister for Triumphs
>>>
>>> similar to that, used on a TR6 (Sujit Roy)
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Could it be that the California cars
>>>
>>> had two canisters?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Fri, Aug 28, 2020 at 11:50 AM
>>>
>>> Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com>
>>>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I think but am not sure that the
>>>
>>> '71 Stag originally came with a canister with 2
>>>
>>> ports. But unfortunately, know one has
>>>
>>> confirmed. In some of the manuals and parts
>>>
>>> books, there are illustrations of the Stag
>>>
>>> having 2 2-port canisters.
>>>
>>> Stag no1 has a carburetor swap to a later
>>>
>>> Mk2 set. The Mk2 2 Stag has a 3-port canister.
>>>
>>> The ports on this type are vertical. I was
>>>
>>> able to find a 3 port canister from a
>>>
>>> junkyard. It came out of an MGB. THis canister
>>>
>>> didn't have a restrictor.
>>>
>>>
>>> Sujit
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Fri, Aug 28, 2020 at 6:03 AM
>>>
>>> DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com>
>>>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Interesting.  The
>>>
>>> early TR6 (without Anti-Run-On valve)
>>>
>>> didn't have this restrictor.  Nor did it
>>>
>>> have the third port for the hoses that
>>>
>>> go to the top of the float chambers.
>>>
>>> These were added to support the Anti-Run-On valve.  But if the
>>>
>>> Stag doesn't have the Anti-Run-On
>>>
>>> valve why did they use this canister?
>>>
>>> I guess they used what was on the
>>>
>>> shelf at the time which is the part
>>>
>>> used on the TR6 at the time.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Dave
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -----Original
>>>
>>> Message-----
>>>
>>>
>>> From: Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com>
>>>
>>>
>>> To: Q <HDRider570 at att.net>
>>>
>>>
>>> Cc: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>>>
>>>
>>> Sent: Thu, Aug 27, 2020 9:52 pm
>>>
>>>
>>> Subject: Re: [TR] Hoses to carbon canister
>>>
>>> for Triumphs similar to that, used on a
>>>
>>> TR6 (Sujit Roy)
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks Edward. Yes the middle one
>>>
>>> to the valve cover. Small piece of
>>>
>>> plastic with a small hole in it.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Thu, Aug 27,
>>>
>>> 2020, 11:44 AM Q <HDRider570 at att.net>
>>>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> There
>>>
>>> is a flow reducer bushing placed
>>>
>>> into one of the canister ports
>>>
>>>
>>> that is often missing.?? I don't
>>>
>>> remember which port but it is
>>>
>>> shown of
>>>
>>>
>>> the parts diagram.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Edward Hamer
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Petaluma CA
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net
>>>
>>> **
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
>>>
>>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>>
>>>
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumphstag at gmail.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> **
>>>
>>> triumphs at autox.team.net
>>>
>>> **
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
>>>
>>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Sujit Roy
>>>
>>>
>>> Cupertino, California
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net
>>>
>>> **
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
>>>
>>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>>
>>>
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fishplate at gmail.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net
>>>
>>> **
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
>>>
>>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>>
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>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Sujit Roy
>>
>>
>> Cupertino, California
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>>
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jmitch at snet.net
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>>
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>
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>>
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From triumphstag at gmail.com  Tue Sep  1 21:22:27 2020
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2020 20:22:27 -0700
Subject: [TR] Hoses to carbon canister for Triumphs similar to that,
 used on a TR6 (Sujit Roy)
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaFYAtGoziTb-wjoBgtOp1KHJXjwvVn5k0p7W1hNCwE6Ww@mail.gmail.com>
References: <dc52f8a4-524e-15a9-77d2-684b260c8cdb.ref@att.net>
 <dc52f8a4-524e-15a9-77d2-684b260c8cdb@att.net>
 <CANLCLaE-5oLZR1svgq1dQFCSBqwwgAJKA5iFNN6UyCMsPXQbCw@mail.gmail.com>
 <868235020.6600500.1598619784180@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CANLCLaFyH0U4gePwBn1csjB_FATSckCydYdaVxrWDo0JtziYrg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAO8Q7CNVbufbXczCHqD7pJRfWoiXTAuCGom9rYCCQnKZg+s5GA@mail.gmail.com>
 <1195122774.1147906.1598977448817@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CANLCLaGfDZ4kOd_2fWSc6esb9q_mQuFLHUZdPB4ej5dPMN1WQg@mail.gmail.com>
 <8aa78c30-67c9-2c57-2ae8-2a7c7940c763@snet.net>
 <CAOp9YTKYxwyZjw-vBbQfYRt6pYo2f2Xi4brwup9a7r16AQ=6eQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANLCLaFYAtGoziTb-wjoBgtOp1KHJXjwvVn5k0p7W1hNCwE6Ww@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANLCLaH9+oh6-P8y44k9S6dJWZ2oAASkrk_=MA=0FxCGPMDDUA@mail.gmail.com>

Looks like it also has a cowl protecting the fan

On Tue, Sep 1, 2020, 8:21 PM Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com> wrote:

> That's good to hear. Ur 72 has a mk2 radiator was that standard. I thought
> that came with mk2 73 year models
>
> On Tue, Sep 1, 2020, 7:07 PM Michael Burdick <salty1249y at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> My ?72 has two canisters and from what I can tell, it came that way. I
>> bought the car in 1996 from the second owner who bought it it 1978. At the
>> time of my purchase, he told me that he had done nothing but maintenance
>> and that the previous (first) owner told him the same. For what that?s
>> worth, it seems to support that the two canisters were always there. I had
>> the attached pic on my phone showing the two canisters - if there is
>> interest, I can easily take more detailed pics of how they are installed.
>>
>> Best regards,
>> Mike Burdick in Illinois
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Sep 1, 2020 at 6:00 PM John Mitchell <jmitch at snet.net> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I have a 72 and cannot find any indication that a second canister
>>>
>>> was ever mounted.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On 9/1/2020 4:45 PM, Sujit Roy wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I think the 2 canister versions were for the '72
>>>
>>> model Stag and not many came to the US because of strikes at the
>>>
>>> factory ( That's what someone said)
>>>
>>> The 2 version one is illustrated in the Stag Parts Book.
>>>
>>>
>>> DIdn't all Triumph come with some sticker saying California
>>>
>>> compliance for emissions or something like that?
>>>
>>>
>>> Sujit
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Tue, Sep 1, 2020 at 9:24 AM
>>>
>>> DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Could be.  The TR7 and TR8 both have
>>>>
>>>> two canisters but that was later on in the decade as
>>>>
>>>> emissions regulations tightened more and more.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Dave
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> -----Original
>>>>
>>>> Message-----
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate at gmail.com>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> To: Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com>;
>>>>
>>>> Triumphs (triumphs at autox.team.net)
>>>>
>>>> <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Sent: Tue, Sep 1, 2020 7:08 am
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Subject: Re: [TR] Hoses to carbon canister for Triumphs
>>>>
>>>> similar to that, used on a TR6 (Sujit Roy)
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Could it be that the California cars
>>>>
>>>> had two canisters?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Fri, Aug 28, 2020 at 11:50 AM
>>>>
>>>> Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com>
>>>>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I think but am not sure that the
>>>>
>>>> '71 Stag originally came with a canister with 2
>>>>
>>>> ports. But unfortunately, know one has
>>>>
>>>> confirmed. In some of the manuals and parts
>>>>
>>>> books, there are illustrations of the Stag
>>>>
>>>> having 2 2-port canisters.
>>>>
>>>> Stag no1 has a carburetor swap to a later
>>>>
>>>> Mk2 set. The Mk2 2 Stag has a 3-port canister.
>>>>
>>>> The ports on this type are vertical. I was
>>>>
>>>> able to find a 3 port canister from a
>>>>
>>>> junkyard. It came out of an MGB. THis canister
>>>>
>>>> didn't have a restrictor.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Sujit
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Fri, Aug 28, 2020 at 6:03 AM
>>>>
>>>> DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com>
>>>>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Interesting.  The
>>>>
>>>> early TR6 (without Anti-Run-On valve)
>>>>
>>>> didn't have this restrictor.  Nor did it
>>>>
>>>> have the third port for the hoses that
>>>>
>>>> go to the top of the float chambers.
>>>>
>>>> These were added to support the Anti-Run-On valve.  But if the
>>>>
>>>> Stag doesn't have the Anti-Run-On
>>>>
>>>> valve why did they use this canister?
>>>>
>>>> I guess they used what was on the
>>>>
>>>> shelf at the time which is the part
>>>>
>>>> used on the TR6 at the time.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Dave
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> -----Original
>>>>
>>>> Message-----
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> From: Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> To: Q <HDRider570 at att.net>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Cc: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Sent: Thu, Aug 27, 2020 9:52 pm
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Subject: Re: [TR] Hoses to carbon canister
>>>>
>>>> for Triumphs similar to that, used on a
>>>>
>>>> TR6 (Sujit Roy)
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Thanks Edward. Yes the middle one
>>>>
>>>> to the valve cover. Small piece of
>>>>
>>>> plastic with a small hole in it.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Thu, Aug 27,
>>>>
>>>> 2020, 11:44 AM Q <HDRider570 at att.net>
>>>>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> There
>>>>
>>>> is a flow reducer bushing placed
>>>>
>>>> into one of the canister ports
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> that is often missing.?? I don't
>>>>
>>>> remember which port but it is
>>>>
>>>> shown of
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> the parts diagram.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Edward Hamer
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Petaluma CA
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net
>>>>
>>>> **
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
>>>>
>>>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumphstag at gmail.com
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> **
>>>>
>>>> triumphs at autox.team.net
>>>>
>>>> **
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
>>>>
>>>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Sujit Roy
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Cupertino, California
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net
>>>>
>>>> **
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
>>>>
>>>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fishplate at gmail.com
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net
>>>>
>>>> **
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
>>>>
>>>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Sujit Roy
>>>
>>>
>>> Cupertino, California
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jmitch at snet.net
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
>>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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>>>
>>>
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From fishplate at gmail.com  Wed Sep  2 12:23:55 2020
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Wed, 2 Sep 2020 14:23:55 -0400
Subject: [TR] Hoses to carbon canister for Triumphs similar to that,
 used on a TR6 (Sujit Roy)
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaGfDZ4kOd_2fWSc6esb9q_mQuFLHUZdPB4ej5dPMN1WQg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <dc52f8a4-524e-15a9-77d2-684b260c8cdb.ref@att.net>
 <dc52f8a4-524e-15a9-77d2-684b260c8cdb@att.net>
 <CANLCLaE-5oLZR1svgq1dQFCSBqwwgAJKA5iFNN6UyCMsPXQbCw@mail.gmail.com>
 <868235020.6600500.1598619784180@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CANLCLaFyH0U4gePwBn1csjB_FATSckCydYdaVxrWDo0JtziYrg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAO8Q7CNVbufbXczCHqD7pJRfWoiXTAuCGom9rYCCQnKZg+s5GA@mail.gmail.com>
 <1195122774.1147906.1598977448817@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CANLCLaGfDZ4kOd_2fWSc6esb9q_mQuFLHUZdPB4ej5dPMN1WQg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAO8Q7CNQTGc-FN7qQDApY9Pr2=ou0tRO4noU6Xi_VB3GPvsynw@mail.gmail.com>

On Tue, Sep 1, 2020 at 4:46 PM Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com> wrote:


> DIdn't all Triumph come with some sticker saying California compliance for
> emissions or something like that?
>
>
Spitfires from 1975 on had a "C" suffix for California cars.
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From mdporter at dfn.com  Fri Sep  4 19:29:52 2020
From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter)
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 2020 19:29:52 -0600
Subject: [TR] Embarrassing, but, stuck driver's door on GT6
Message-ID: <a1dfb0ba-a51e-765d-debf-4f87d3a998c4@dfn.com>

Mea culpa, mea culpa, I haven't driven the GT6 in a long time and the 
code enforcement nazis in town are making me get rid of it unless I can 
prove it runs.? It needed a new battery, so I got one (when did 
batteries get sooo expensive?).? Needed fuel, put some in it.

But, now, I can't get into it.? The outer door handle broke a long time 
ago, so I just left the window part-way open so I could reach in and 
open it with the interior door pull.? But that doesn't work now.? It's 
really, really stuck.? Won't budge a bit, almost like it was welded 
shut.? Now, there were chips in the paint on the door seam like someone 
may have tried to pop the door open with a screwdriver, but, I'm not 
sure that's the problem.? I think the lock and pawl are just plain 
frozen.? The actuating lever on the latch mechanism does move, as does 
the locking slide.

I've been bumping, prying, cussing to no avail.? Any ideas?


Cheers.

-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....



From grglmn at gmail.com  Fri Sep  4 19:43:27 2020
From: grglmn at gmail.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 2020 20:43:27 -0500
Subject: [TR] Embarrassing, but, stuck driver's door on GT6
In-Reply-To: <a1dfb0ba-a51e-765d-debf-4f87d3a998c4@dfn.com>
References: <a1dfb0ba-a51e-765d-debf-4f87d3a998c4@dfn.com>
Message-ID: <CAFtw3abg47LQC3ZB7LzCmaAoO2He0w8E86+C0Raaot_yhkkjCA@mail.gmail.com>

I don't know if a GT6 door works the same as a TR250, but my driver's door
was doing similar things, the lock was slipping into lock position on it's
own and nothing would open it short of taking off the inner panel and
monkeying with the mechanism.  I don't remember how I got it to stop, do
you have a small, agile person with nimble hands who can slip in from the
passenger side? Or is that stuck too?

Greg Lemon
TR250

On Fri, Sep 4, 2020, 8:30 PM Michael Porter <mdporter at dfn.com> wrote:

> Mea culpa, mea culpa, I haven't driven the GT6 in a long time and the
> code enforcement nazis in town are making me get rid of it unless I can
> prove it runs.  It needed a new battery, so I got one (when did
> batteries get sooo expensive?).  Needed fuel, put some in it.
>
> But, now, I can't get into it.  The outer door handle broke a long time
> ago, so I just left the window part-way open so I could reach in and
> open it with the interior door pull.  But that doesn't work now.  It's
> really, really stuck.  Won't budge a bit, almost like it was welded
> shut.  Now, there were chips in the paint on the door seam like someone
> may have tried to pop the door open with a screwdriver, but, I'm not
> sure that's the problem.  I think the lock and pawl are just plain
> frozen.  The actuating lever on the latch mechanism does move, as does
> the locking slide.
>
> I've been bumping, prying, cussing to no avail.  Any ideas?
>
>
> Cheers.
>
> --
>
>
> Michael Porter
> Roswell, NM
>
>
> Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking
> distance....
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/grglmn at gmail.com
>
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From jdinnis at gmail.com  Fri Sep  4 19:51:22 2020
From: jdinnis at gmail.com (John Innis)
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 2020 20:51:22 -0500
Subject: [TR] Embarrassing, but, stuck driver's door on GT6
In-Reply-To: <a1dfb0ba-a51e-765d-debf-4f87d3a998c4@dfn.com>
References: <a1dfb0ba-a51e-765d-debf-4f87d3a998c4@dfn.com>
Message-ID: <CANuE7YCgv9-TJ4jVJQQUVcS_EYDFxVhRdNYcG=VAJ5Drs6Vy=w@mail.gmail.com>

First, try unlocking the door with the key from outside.  If the inside
lock rod is broken, this will get you going.  If that does not work, I
think you can get the inside panel off with door closed?  If so you can see
if the local and latch rods are acting on the latch.  If the rods are
working the body may have sagged.  THis happens on the Spits but I am not
aware of it on GT6's.  On the off chance that is what is happening, you
could try jacking up the body on the drivers side and see if that frees up
the door.

On Fri, Sep 4, 2020 at 8:31 PM Michael Porter <mdporter at dfn.com> wrote:

> Mea culpa, mea culpa, I haven't driven the GT6 in a long time and the
> code enforcement nazis in town are making me get rid of it unless I can
> prove it runs.  It needed a new battery, so I got one (when did
> batteries get sooo expensive?).  Needed fuel, put some in it.
>
> But, now, I can't get into it.  The outer door handle broke a long time
> ago, so I just left the window part-way open so I could reach in and
> open it with the interior door pull.  But that doesn't work now.  It's
> really, really stuck.  Won't budge a bit, almost like it was welded
> shut.  Now, there were chips in the paint on the door seam like someone
> may have tried to pop the door open with a screwdriver, but, I'm not
> sure that's the problem.  I think the lock and pawl are just plain
> frozen.  The actuating lever on the latch mechanism does move, as does
> the locking slide.
>
> I've been bumping, prying, cussing to no avail.  Any ideas?
>
>
> Cheers.
>
> --
>
>
> Michael Porter
> Roswell, NM
>
>
> Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking
> distance....
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jdinnis at gmail.com
>


-- 
=================================
= Never offend people with style when you   =
= can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =
=================================
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From trhouse at columbus.rr.com  Fri Sep  4 19:54:31 2020
From: trhouse at columbus.rr.com (Tom Householder)
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 2020 21:54:31 -0400
Subject: [TR] Embarrassing, but, stuck driver's door on GT6
In-Reply-To: <CANuE7YCgv9-TJ4jVJQQUVcS_EYDFxVhRdNYcG=VAJ5Drs6Vy=w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <a1dfb0ba-a51e-765d-debf-4f87d3a998c4@dfn.com>
 <CANuE7YCgv9-TJ4jVJQQUVcS_EYDFxVhRdNYcG=VAJ5Drs6Vy=w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <425C2763-89D7-4D85-B63C-3227B9068357@columbus.rr.com>

Assembly photos

https://www.ebay.com/i/254554846310?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=254554846310&targetid=935083617347&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9014935&poi=&campaignid=10897364329&mkgroupid=106040619494&rlsatarget=pla-935083617347&abcId=9300403&merchantid=119253812&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIq7CshvPQ6wIVTdbACh10jQVkEAQYBSABEgLuF_D_BwE <https://www.ebay.com/i/254554846310?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=254554846310&targetid=935083617347&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9014935&poi=&campaignid=10897364329&mkgroupid=106040619494&rlsatarget=pla-935083617347&abcId=9300403&merchantid=119253812&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIq7CshvPQ6wIVTdbACh10jQVkEAQYBSABEgLuF_D_BwE>


> On Sep 4, 2020, at 9:51 PM, John Innis <jdinnis at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> First, try unlocking the door with the key from outside.  If the inside lock rod is broken, this will get you going.  If that does not work, I think you can get the inside panel off with door closed?  If so you can see if the local and latch rods are acting on the latch.  If the rods are working the body may have sagged.  THis happens on the Spits but I am not aware of it on GT6's.  On the off chance that is what is happening, you could try jacking up the body on the drivers side and see if that frees up the door.  
> 
> On Fri, Sep 4, 2020 at 8:31 PM Michael Porter <mdporter at dfn.com <mailto:mdporter at dfn.com>> wrote:
> Mea culpa, mea culpa, I haven't driven the GT6 in a long time and the 
> code enforcement nazis in town are making me get rid of it unless I can 
> prove it runs.  It needed a new battery, so I got one (when did 
> batteries get sooo expensive?).  Needed fuel, put some in it.
> 
> But, now, I can't get into it.  The outer door handle broke a long time 
> ago, so I just left the window part-way open so I could reach in and 
> open it with the interior door pull.  But that doesn't work now.  It's 
> really, really stuck.  Won't budge a bit, almost like it was welded 
> shut.  Now, there were chips in the paint on the door seam like someone 
> may have tried to pop the door open with a screwdriver, but, I'm not 
> sure that's the problem.  I think the lock and pawl are just plain 
> frozen.  The actuating lever on the latch mechanism does move, as does 
> the locking slide.
> 
> I've been bumping, prying, cussing to no avail.  Any ideas?
> 
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> -- 
> 
> 
> Michael Porter
> Roswell, NM
> 
> 
> Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....
> 
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs <http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs>  http://www.team.net/archive <http://www.team.net/archive>
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jdinnis at gmail.com <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jdinnis at gmail.com>
> 
> 
> -- 
> =================================
> = Never offend people with style when you   =
> = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =
> =================================
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs <http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs>  http://www.team.net/archive <http://www.team.net/archive>
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trhouse at columbus.rr.com <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trhouse at columbus.rr.com>
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From mdporter at dfn.com  Fri Sep  4 20:00:04 2020
From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter)
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 2020 20:00:04 -0600
Subject: [TR] Embarrassing, but, stuck driver's door on GT6
In-Reply-To: <CANuE7YCgv9-TJ4jVJQQUVcS_EYDFxVhRdNYcG=VAJ5Drs6Vy=w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <a1dfb0ba-a51e-765d-debf-4f87d3a998c4@dfn.com>
 <CANuE7YCgv9-TJ4jVJQQUVcS_EYDFxVhRdNYcG=VAJ5Drs6Vy=w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <bae7ddce-e3bc-cd3f-6a7a-2f0cd78f99eb@dfn.com>

On 9/4/2020 7:51 PM, John Innis wrote:
> First, try unlocking the door with the key from outside.

It's unlocked

> ? If the inside lock rod is broken, this will get you going.? If that 
> does not work, I think you can get the inside panel off with door 
> closed?? If so you can see if the local and latch rods are acting on 
> the latch.

The rods are working, for the interior door pull and the lock mechanism.

> ? If the rods are working the body may have sagged.? THis happens on 
> the Spits but I am not aware of it on GT6's.? On the off chance that 
> is what is happening, you could try jacking up the body on the drivers 
> side and see if that frees up the door.

I don't see a noticeable change in the door edge to rear quarter seam, 
but, this does make me wonder if the car is twisted slightly since the 
left rear tire is down a lot--almost flat.

Thanks.? Cheers.


-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....



From ptegler at verizon.net  Fri Sep  4 20:19:24 2020
From: ptegler at verizon.net (Paul Tegler)
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 2020 22:19:24 -0400
Subject: [TR] Embarrassing, but, stuck driver's door on GT6
In-Reply-To: <bae7ddce-e3bc-cd3f-6a7a-2f0cd78f99eb@dfn.com>
References: <a1dfb0ba-a51e-765d-debf-4f87d3a998c4@dfn.com>
 <CANuE7YCgv9-TJ4jVJQQUVcS_EYDFxVhRdNYcG=VAJ5Drs6Vy=w@mail.gmail.com>
 <bae7ddce-e3bc-cd3f-6a7a-2f0cd78f99eb@dfn.com>
Message-ID: <0974a7a9-64bc-9bd3-307e-cc3a3227fb34@verizon.net>

with the supplied long thin red tube nozzle, spray a can of PB Blaster 
down the gap to soak the latch mechanism.? an overnight soak should free 
up the latch.
Smack the door ...hard... with your hip .... to crack the rust/latch loose.

My question though... how can the locals require you to get rid of the 
car?? Do you have tags on it?

At least in MD, (my county anyway?) a car can not be in sight of the 
road without tags on it. Hidden behind a fence only works if no neighbor 
can see it as well.
They don't usually enforce it unless a neighbor complains but no car can 
be parked? on a non-designed location EG: can't park them on the grass etc
Stored indoors they can not say anything.??? why not just put historic 
or antique tags it and tell them to blow off!??? ???

just wondering

ptegler


On 9/4/2020 10:00 PM, Michael Porter wrote:
> On 9/4/2020 7:51 PM, John Innis wrote:
>> First, try unlocking the door with the key from outside.
>
> It's unlocked
>
>> ? If the inside lock rod is broken, this will get you going.? If that 
>> does not work, I think you can get the inside panel off with door 
>> closed?? If so you can see if the local and latch rods are acting on 
>> the latch.
>
> The rods are working, for the interior door pull and the lock mechanism.
>
>> ? If the rods are working the body may have sagged.? THis happens on 
>> the Spits but I am not aware of it on GT6's.? On the off chance that 
>> is what is happening, you could try jacking up the body on the 
>> drivers side and see if that frees up the door.
>
> I don't see a noticeable change in the door edge to rear quarter seam, 
> but, this does make me wonder if the car is twisted slightly since the 
> left rear tire is down a lot--almost flat.
>
> Thanks.? Cheers.
>
>
-- 
Paul Tegler
ptegler at verizon.net  www.teglerizer.com


From mdporter at dfn.com  Fri Sep  4 20:30:49 2020
From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter)
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 2020 20:30:49 -0600
Subject: [TR] Embarrassing, but, stuck driver's door on GT6
In-Reply-To: <0974a7a9-64bc-9bd3-307e-cc3a3227fb34@verizon.net>
References: <a1dfb0ba-a51e-765d-debf-4f87d3a998c4@dfn.com>
 <CANuE7YCgv9-TJ4jVJQQUVcS_EYDFxVhRdNYcG=VAJ5Drs6Vy=w@mail.gmail.com>
 <bae7ddce-e3bc-cd3f-6a7a-2f0cd78f99eb@dfn.com>
 <0974a7a9-64bc-9bd3-307e-cc3a3227fb34@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <1764adbe-e902-fdb1-72df-01d3e0a16c87@dfn.com>

On 9/4/2020 8:19 PM, Paul Tegler wrote:
> with the supplied long thin red tube nozzle, spray a can of PB Blaster 
> down the gap to soak the latch mechanism.? an overnight soak should 
> free up the latch.
> Smack the door ...hard... with your hip .... to crack the rust/latch 
> loose.

No PB Blaster in the house, but, I suppose I'll have to get some.? The 
latches were greased--a long time ago--with lithium grease.


>
> My question though... how can the locals require you to get rid of the 
> car?? Do you have tags on it?

Yup, the local code says "inoperable," so I'm trying to prove to them 
that it is operable.? If I can't, then they can fine me and charge court 
costs and charge me for towing and disposal.? And, yeah, it's got 
current tags and insurance on it.? It's been sitting for quite a while 
with no one saying "boo!" about it, so I think the city's revenues are 
down because of lockdowns and quasi-lockdowns, so this is their way of 
generating revenue.


Cheers.

-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....



From auprichard at uprichard.net  Sat Sep  5 10:40:29 2020
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (auprichard at uprichard.net)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2020 12:40:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 in Fairfax County, VA
Message-ID: <000001d683a3$44e36730$ceaa3590$@uprichard.net>

If you were driving your blue TR3 in Fairfax County, VA this am, you made my
grandson very excited !!

Sorry about the poor quality pic, but it looks like a great car!

Andrew Uprichard

Jackson, Michigan

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From bk13 at earthlink.net  Sat Sep  5 11:11:51 2020
From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2020 10:11:51 -0700
Subject: [TR] Embarrassing, but, stuck driver's door on GT6
In-Reply-To: <a1dfb0ba-a51e-765d-debf-4f87d3a998c4@dfn.com>
References: <a1dfb0ba-a51e-765d-debf-4f87d3a998c4@dfn.com>
Message-ID: <43ced87c-4852-fb8c-c3d2-b8a71cbf7922@earthlink.net>

I had a similar problem with the outer handle.? There is a plastic bit 
in the handle mechanism with a pin that goes in the handle.? It looks 
weak and mine broke.? At first, I could use the key and turn it to the 
unlock position then pull the handle while holding the key and have the 
door work, but that didn't last long.? Took things apart and found the 
problem of the broken plastic bit.? Re-sculpted the end of the plastic 
bit with hot melt glue and it worked perfectly twice.

The attached picture shows the broken bit.? The end of the white plastic 
part should have a round hole with a cotter pin to engage the latch 
handle.? I removed the spring so the plastic part was more visible.

Tired of having to open the driver's side door from the passenger's 
side, I ordered a matched set of new handles from TRF.? They were on 
sale and cheap enough that it was well worth the cost of not having to 
always open the passenger door to reach through and open the drivers 
door.? I was also very concerned the passenger door handle would fail, 
leading to a bigger problem.

There are some adjustments on the rods that open the door latch. 
Recommend you take off the inner door panel, make sure the rods are 
straight, remove and lubricate the door latch, and look in the door 
itself to check and see if the connection to the outer handle is broken.

Other things to try:
- The door sags.? Have someone outside help lift the door while you try 
the inside latch.
- The frame is flexible.? Put a jack under the frame at the door and 
jack up the car and try again.

After you get the door open, test the handles and latch multiple times 
before closing again.? You can use a decent sized round object (I used a 
#3 Phillips screw drive) to simulate the strike plate on the body of the 
car.? Slide the round part of the lock plate in like you are closing the 
door then try the inside handle a couple times as it seems more sturdy.? 
When that works, try the outside handle again after you figure out why 
it didn't work.

For others - I have both the GT6 and a TR6 and the handles are difference.

Brian

On 9/4/2020 6:29 PM, Michael Porter wrote:
> Mea culpa, mea culpa, I haven't driven the GT6 in a long time and the 
> code enforcement nazis in town are making me get rid of it unless I 
> can prove it runs.? It needed a new battery, so I got one (when did 
> batteries get sooo expensive?).? Needed fuel, put some in it.
>
> But, now, I can't get into it.? The outer door handle broke a long 
> time ago, so I just left the window part-way open so I could reach in 
> and open it with the interior door pull.? But that doesn't work now.? 
> It's really, really stuck.? Won't budge a bit, almost like it was 
> welded shut.? Now, there were chips in the paint on the door seam like 
> someone may have tried to pop the door open with a screwdriver, but, 
> I'm not sure that's the problem.? I think the lock and pawl are just 
> plain frozen.? The actuating lever on the latch mechanism does move, 
> as does the locking slide.
>
> I've been bumping, prying, cussing to no avail.? Any ideas?
>
>
> Cheers.
>

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From dave at ranteer.com  Sat Sep  5 13:44:39 2020
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Sat, 05 Sep 2020 14:44:39 -0500
Subject: [TR] 62 TR4
Message-ID: <mailman.67.1599335111.2902.triumphs@autox.team.net>

So i am here,? and trying to figure out the best way to get the trunion and the piece in front of it off.I have a gear puller but it doesn't seem right for that piece with the two studs.?
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From carlsereda at aol.com  Sat Sep  5 14:40:11 2020
From: carlsereda at aol.com (Carl Sereda)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2020 20:40:11 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 13, Issue 237
In-Reply-To: <mailman.7474.1599335110.2905.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.7474.1599335110.2905.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <102690141.3610317.1599338411965@mail.yahoo.com>

Dave,Curious - what's the end goal? Could get very involved and very expensive.. Might have some tips if I know your intentions.
Regards,
Carl'63 TR4 since '74

So i am here,? and trying to figure out the best way to get the trunion and the piece in front of it off.I have a gear puller but it doesn't seem right for that piece with the two studs.?
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From auprichard at uprichard.net  Sat Sep  5 14:40:26 2020
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (auprichard at uprichard.net)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2020 16:40:26 -0400
Subject: [TR] 62 TR4
In-Reply-To: <20200905194550.AF8BAA0D94@autox.team.net>
References: <20200905194550.AF8BAA0D94@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <005101d683c4$cad8e8d0$608aba70$@uprichard.net>

Shouldn?t need any pullers.  That tie rod lever should come off now the nuts are off the long bolts ? try tapping the bolts out.  Then two more bolts and the caliper plate and dust shield should come off.  Then unscrew the vertical link from  the trunnion.

 

Andrew Uprichard

Jackson, Michigan

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of dave
Sent: Saturday, September 5, 2020 3:45 PM
To: *Triumphs List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] 62 TR4

 

So i am here,  and trying to figure out the best way to get the trunion and the piece in front of it off.

 

I have a gear puller but it doesn't seem right for that piece with the two studs. 

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From dave at ranteer.com  Sat Sep  5 14:51:05 2020
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2020 15:51:05 -0500
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 13, Issue 237
In-Reply-To: <102690141.3610317.1599338411965@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <mailman.7474.1599335110.2905.triumphs@autox.team.net>
 <102690141.3610317.1599338411965@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <007301d683c6$461d31d0$d2579570$@ranteer.com>

Replace the trunnions.  I have already purchased them.

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Carl Sereda
Sent: Saturday, September 5, 2020 3:40 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 13, Issue 237

 

Dave,

Curious - what's the end goal? Could get very involved and very expensive.. Might have some tips if I know your intentions.

Regards,

Carl

'63 TR4 since '74

So i am here,? and trying to figure out the best way to get the trunion and the piece in front of it off.I have a gear puller but it doesn't seem right for that piece with the two studs.?

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From dave at ranteer.com  Sat Sep  5 14:51:48 2020
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2020 15:51:48 -0500
Subject: [TR] 62 TR4
In-Reply-To: <005101d683c4$cad8e8d0$608aba70$@uprichard.net>
References: <20200905194550.AF8BAA0D94@autox.team.net>
 <005101d683c4$cad8e8d0$608aba70$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <007801d683c6$5fd73170$1f859450$@ranteer.com>

Those are bolts?  I can push them out the other side?  Never occurred to me!

 

From: auprichard at uprichard.net <auprichard at uprichard.net> 
Sent: Saturday, September 5, 2020 3:40 PM
To: 'dave' <dave at ranteer.com>; '*Triumphs List' <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: [TR] 62 TR4

 

Shouldn?t need any pullers.  That tie rod lever should come off now the nuts are off the long bolts ? try tapping the bolts out.  Then two more bolts and the caliper plate and dust shield should come off.  Then unscrew the vertical link from  the trunnion.

 

Andrew Uprichard

Jackson, Michigan

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of dave
Sent: Saturday, September 5, 2020 3:45 PM
To: *Triumphs List <triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> >
Subject: [TR] 62 TR4

 

So i am here,  and trying to figure out the best way to get the trunion and the piece in front of it off.

 

I have a gear puller but it doesn't seem right for that piece with the two studs. 

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From dlhogye at comcast.net  Sat Sep  5 16:14:51 2020
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2020 15:14:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] 62 TR4
In-Reply-To: <007801d683c6$5fd73170$1f859450$@ranteer.com>
References: <20200905194550.AF8BAA0D94@autox.team.net>
 <005101d683c4$cad8e8d0$608aba70$@uprichard.net>
 <007801d683c6$5fd73170$1f859450$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <1444577495.94059.1599344091568@connect.xfinity.com>

Dave,
Remove the rotor and hub first.
4 bolts hold the caliper mount and steering arm on.  The upright has through holes and threaded holes for these bolts.  You'll have to remove the steering stop bolt and eccentric adjuster from the trunnion.  Then the trunnion will unscrew from the upright.  The stub axle can be removed with a heavy hammer, but protect the threads if you plan on reusing it.
Dave H.

>     On 09/05/2020 1:51 PM dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
>     Those are bolts?  I can push them out the other side?  Never occurred to me!
> 
> 
>     From: auprichard at uprichard.net <auprichard at uprichard.net>
>     Sent: Saturday, September 5, 2020 3:40 PM
>     To: 'dave' <dave at ranteer.com>; '*Triumphs List' <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>     Subject: RE: [TR] 62 TR4
> 
> 
>     Shouldn?t need any pullers.  That tie rod lever should come off now the nuts are off the long bolts ? try tapping the bolts out.  Then two more bolts and the caliper plate and dust shield should come off.  Then unscrew the vertical link from  the trunnion.
> 
>      
> 
>     Andrew Uprichard
> 
>     Jackson, Michigan
> 
>      
> 
>     From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > On Behalf Of dave
>     Sent: Saturday, September 5, 2020 3:45 PM
>     To: *Triumphs List <triumphs at autox.team.net mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net >
>     Subject: [TR] 62 TR4
> 
> 
>     So i am here,  and trying to figure out the best way to get the trunion and the piece in front of it off.
> 
> 
>     I have a gear puller but it doesn't seem right for that piece with the two studs. 
> 
>     ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
> 
>     Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye at comcast.net
> 
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From HDRider570 at att.net  Sat Sep  5 16:33:46 2020
From: HDRider570 at att.net (Q)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2020 15:33:46 -0700
Subject: [TR] Embarrassing, but, stuck driver's door on GT6
References: <3e87775e-6fa2-8ea1-c491-8e527eb63b11.ref@att.net>
Message-ID: <3e87775e-6fa2-8ea1-c491-8e527eb63b11@att.net>

Get the chassis level.? The frames on most Triumphs twist enough to make 
the doors inoperable if one corner is higher/lower than the rest.? I 
don't think that GT6's have anti burst catch that so famously sticks on 
convertible TR's

Other than that you will need to get the mechanism out of the door, or 
at least loose.

Edward Hamer


From HDRider570 at att.net  Sat Sep  5 16:35:51 2020
From: HDRider570 at att.net (Q)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2020 15:35:51 -0700
Subject: [TR] ref:62 TR4
References: <e7d9e60a-eca8-31a8-333a-3ec517ab96c0.ref@att.net>
Message-ID: <e7d9e60a-eca8-31a8-333a-3ec517ab96c0@att.net>

Take the rotor off to access the heads on the bolts that are threaded 
into the steering link that you are trying to remove.

Edward Hamer

Petaluma CA


From allen.k.hess at gmail.com  Sat Sep  5 16:45:11 2020
From: allen.k.hess at gmail.com (Allen Hess)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2020 18:45:11 -0400
Subject: [TR] 62 TR4
Message-ID: <2F96450D-6C3C-4690-BEC4-90418ECCD5E6@gmail.com>

If you don?t have a manual check a moss catalog for exploded view. The rotor has to come off. That reveals 4 bolts with lock tabs (I think). Remove those and I think the vertical link and other parts will be separated. The trunnion UNSCREWS from the vertical link. No pullers required, maybe a hammer. I haven?t done this in a long time so maybe someone else will add or verify. 

Allen
also a 62/63

>> On Sep 5, 2020, at 3:44 PM, dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:
> ?So i am here,  and trying to figure out the best way to get the trunion and the piece in front of it off.
> 
> I have a gear puller but it doesn't seem right for that piece with the two studs. 
> <20200905_144217.jpg>
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From Randall.Reihing at utoledo.edu  Sat Sep  5 17:12:20 2020
From: Randall.Reihing at utoledo.edu (Reihing, Randall S.)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2020 23:12:20 +0000
Subject: [TR] [EXTERNAL] Re:  62 TR4
In-Reply-To: <2F96450D-6C3C-4690-BEC4-90418ECCD5E6@gmail.com>
References: <2F96450D-6C3C-4690-BEC4-90418ECCD5E6@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BL0PR01MB47397ABEC4D3C5B7DD384409EC2A0@BL0PR01MB4739.prod.exchangelabs.com>

ChrfTush has an excellent YouYube series on his fromae off restorationof his 1959 TR3A. Included is a 6 part series on the fornt suspension. Part 1 depcits the disassembly and separation of the vertical link and it's components. Part 2 goes further.Wellworth watching.

Here is Part 1:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CdQgZ1uFoOs&t=6s
[https://i.ytimg.com/vi/CdQgZ1uFoOs/maxresdefault.jpg]<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CdQgZ1uFoOs&t=6s>
1959 Triumph TR3A Restoration, Front Suspension, Part 1 - YouTube<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CdQgZ1uFoOs&t=6s>
Starting on the front suspension while the frame dries.....
www.youtube.com

________________________________
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Allen Hess <allen.k.hess at gmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 5, 2020 6:45 PM
To: dave <dave at ranteer.com>
Cc: *Triumphs List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: [TR] 62 TR4

If you don?t have a manual check a moss catalog for exploded view. The rotor has to come off. That reveals 4 bolts with lock tabs (I think). Remove those and I think the vertical link and other parts will be separated. The trunnion UNSCREWS from the vertical link. No pullers required, maybe a hammer. I haven?t done this in a long time so maybe someone else will add or verify.

Allen
also a 62/63

On Sep 5, 2020, at 3:44 PM, dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:

?So i am here,  and trying to figure out the best way to get the trunion and the piece in front of it off.

I have a gear puller but it doesn't seem right for that piece with the two studs.
<20200905_144217.jpg>
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From artfournier4 at gmail.com  Sat Sep  5 17:17:55 2020
From: artfournier4 at gmail.com (Arthur Fournier)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2020 19:17:55 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 in Fairfax County, VA
Message-ID: <CAF2RLw6rQV63Etb__FkYFHS_Txt13fKEHkv27gUZaQJf3cDNGg@mail.gmail.com>

The TR3A belongs to one of the members of the Capital Triumph Register.  I
forwarded your email and photo to him.

Art Fournier
Chesapeake Beach. MD


From: <auprichard at uprichard.net>
To: "'Triumphs'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2020 12:40:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 in Fairfax County, VA

If you were driving your blue TR3 in Fairfax County, VA this am, you made
my grandson very excited !!

Sorry about the poor quality pic, but it looks like a great car!

Andrew Uprichard

Jackson, Michigan
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From lherault at verizon.net  Sat Sep  5 20:25:09 2020
From: lherault at verizon.net (Ron L'Herault)
Date: Sat, 5 Sep 2020 22:25:09 -0400
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 13, Issue 236
In-Reply-To: <mailman.10.1599328802.8104.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.10.1599328802.8104.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <005001d683f4$f18236f0$d486a4d0$@net>


I once washed my GT6+ on a warm Feb afternoon, took it for a ride and
discovered that dropping temps had frozen me into the car, except that the
rear hatch could still be opened by an outside party.   Can you get in from
the rear hatch?   Once in you may be able to push a side door open.  Leave
the hatch up in case you can't although it may be easier to crawl out an
open window.

Ron L


Today's Topics:

   1. Embarrassing, but, stuck driver's door on GT6 (Michael Porter)
   
----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 2020 19:29:52 -0600
From: Michael Porter <mdporter at dfn.com>
To: Triumphs <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Embarrassing, but, stuck driver's door on GT6
Message-ID: <a1dfb0ba-a51e-765d-debf-4f87d3a998c4 at dfn.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed

Mea culpa, mea culpa, I haven't driven the GT6 in a long time and the 
code enforcement nazis in town are making me get rid of it unless I can 
prove it runs.? It needed a new battery, so I got one (when did 
batteries get sooo expensive?).? Needed fuel, put some in it.

But, now, I can't get into it.? The outer door handle broke a long time 
ago, so I just left the window part-way open so I could reach in and 
open it with the interior door pull.? But that doesn't work now.? It's 
really, really stuck.? Won't budge a bit, almost like it was welded 
shut.? Now, there were chips in the paint on the door seam like someone 
may have tried to pop the door open with a screwdriver, but, I'm not 
sure that's the problem.? I think the lock and pawl are just plain 
frozen.? The actuating lever on the latch mechanism does move, as does 
the locking slide.

I've been bumping, prying, cussing to no avail.? Any ideas?


Cheers.



From anncarletta at yahoo.com  Sun Sep  6 12:09:14 2020
From: anncarletta at yahoo.com (Ann Carletta)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2020 18:09:14 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Subject:  Embarrassing, but, stuck driver's door on GT6
References: <962170506.2879039.1599415754711.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <962170506.2879039.1599415754711@mail.yahoo.com>

Do you have to move it or just show that it runs?? Maybe you can start it from under the hood before they get there.??


Message: 1
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 2020 19:29:52 -0600
From: Michael Porter <mdporter at dfn.com>
To: Triumphs <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Embarrassing, but, stuck driver's door on GT6
Message-ID: <a1dfb0ba-a51e-765d-debf-4f87d3a998c4 at dfn.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed

Mea culpa, mea culpa, I haven't driven the GT6 in a long time and the
code enforcement nazis in town are making me get rid of it unless I can
prove it runs.? It needed a new battery, so I got one (when did
batteries get sooo expensive?).? Needed fuel, put some in it.

But, now, I can't get into it.? The outer door handle broke a long time
ago, so I just left the window part-way open so I could reach in and
open it with the interior door pull.? But that doesn't work now.? It's
really, really stuck.? Won't budge a bit, almost like it was welded
shut.? Now, there were chips in the paint on the door seam like someone
may have tried to pop the door open with a screwdriver, but, I'm not
sure that's the problem.? I think the lock and pawl are just plain
frozen.? The actuating lever on the latch mechanism does move, as does
the locking slide.

I've been bumping, prying, cussing to no avail.? Any ideas?


Cheers.




------------------------------


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From John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk  Sun Sep  6 17:16:39 2020
From: John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 2020 00:16:39 +0100
Subject: [TR] The U.K. TR6 driver
Message-ID: <ADFD0196-B011-439E-8211-E10D8C5A1339@Ukpips.org.uk>

I think it?s unlikely this owner is on this list - but just in case, this is for him.

Remember yesterday on the A46 near Bidford on Avon? I was the bloke in the black Volvo C70  convertible who took pity on you stranded at the roadside with a  fuel  metering unit whose timing was out of whack. Some things for you to remember for future reference:

1. I stopped to offer you help out of kindness and curiosity. No emergency mechanic will understand the Lucas injection system fitted on your TR6. I do, having worked on many cars with that equipment when new and I?ve owned three myself.

2. If you choose to drive a classic car, One jack without a handle, no wheelnut spanner at all and a sloppy adjustable spanner does NOT represent a toolkit! Wasn?t it handy that mine was available?

3. If you paid ?30,000 for that car, the seller saw you coming. The engine needs a major rebuild from the racket it makes at idle, the electrics look positively dangerous and the fuel pump is over-fuelling the metering unit. What I did at the roadside in re-timing your metering unit to squirt the correct pipe at least got you running on all six, albeit not smoothly but enough to get you home.

4. I hope you enjoyed the lunch you never stopped telling me you were likely to miss as I worked on your car and...

5. If anyone else ever stops to help you at the roadside when they had no need to themselves, remember it?s customary to say just two words before storming off in a cloud of smoke and crashing gears. Those words? Thank you is the customary in England and a few other places too.

Sproutpicker!

Jonmac



Bessie Braddock: ?Winston! You?re drunk?.
Churchill: ?and you, Madam, are ugly. But tomorrow, I shall be sober but you will still be ugly?.

From dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Sep  6 17:19:23 2020
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2020 23:19:23 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] 62 TR4
In-Reply-To: <20200905194534.D8CDFA0CEE@autox.team.net>
References: <20200905194534.D8CDFA0CEE@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <452895344.2938112.1599434363856@mail.yahoo.com>

 They screw on/off.? You have to remove the rotor and everything else in the way.? The right and left are opposite hand threads.
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: dave <dave at ranteer.com>
To: *Triumphs List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, Sep 5, 2020 2:44 pm
Subject: [TR] 62 TR4

So i am here,? and trying to figure out the best way to get the trunion and the piece in front of it off.
I have a gear puller but it doesn't seem right for that piece with the two studs.?** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com
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From grglmn at gmail.com  Sun Sep  6 17:31:19 2020
From: grglmn at gmail.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2020 18:31:19 -0500
Subject: [TR] The U.K. TR6 driver
In-Reply-To: <ADFD0196-B011-439E-8211-E10D8C5A1339@Ukpips.org.uk>
References: <ADFD0196-B011-439E-8211-E10D8C5A1339@Ukpips.org.uk>
Message-ID: <CAFtw3aZt_dJSx3FCaBqeqGhke8mzw6sBgk_bqt8CfOJkY8fe=g@mail.gmail.com>

John,

Here I thought all englishmen were polite and we got the short end of the
stick not getting the Petrol Injection cars.  You did the right thing, even
if not appreciated.

Best Regards

Greg Lemon
TR250

On Sun, Sep 6, 2020, 6:16 PM John Macartney <John.Macartney at ukpips.org.uk>
wrote:

> I think it?s unlikely this owner is on this list - but just in case, this
> is for him.
>
> Remember yesterday on the A46 near Bidford on Avon? I was the bloke in the
> black Volvo C70  convertible who took pity on you stranded at the roadside
> with a  fuel  metering unit whose timing was out of whack. Some things for
> you to remember for future reference:
>
> 1. I stopped to offer you help out of kindness and curiosity. No emergency
> mechanic will understand the Lucas injection system fitted on your TR6. I
> do, having worked on many cars with that equipment when new and I?ve owned
> three myself.
>
> 2. If you choose to drive a classic car, One jack without a handle, no
> wheelnut spanner at all and a sloppy adjustable spanner does NOT represent
> a toolkit! Wasn?t it handy that mine was available?
>
> 3. If you paid ?30,000 for that car, the seller saw you coming. The engine
> needs a major rebuild from the racket it makes at idle, the electrics look
> positively dangerous and the fuel pump is over-fuelling the metering unit.
> What I did at the roadside in re-timing your metering unit to squirt the
> correct pipe at least got you running on all six, albeit not smoothly but
> enough to get you home.
>
> 4. I hope you enjoyed the lunch you never stopped telling me you were
> likely to miss as I worked on your car and...
>
> 5. If anyone else ever stops to help you at the roadside when they had no
> need to themselves, remember it?s customary to say just two words before
> storming off in a cloud of smoke and crashing gears. Those words? Thank you
> is the customary in England and a few other places too.
>
> Sproutpicker!
>
> Jonmac
>
>
>
> Bessie Braddock: ?Winston! You?re drunk?.
> Churchill: ?and you, Madam, are ugly. But tomorrow, I shall be sober but
> you will still be ugly?.
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/grglmn at gmail.com
>
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From cliff_hansen at outlook.com  Sun Sep  6 17:33:41 2020
From: cliff_hansen at outlook.com (Cliff Hansen)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2020 23:33:41 +0000
Subject: [TR] The U.K. TR6 driver
In-Reply-To: <ADFD0196-B011-439E-8211-E10D8C5A1339@Ukpips.org.uk>
References: <ADFD0196-B011-439E-8211-E10D8C5A1339@Ukpips.org.uk>
Message-ID: <CY4PR22MB09203CC863D10D75DDE00265FA2B0@CY4PR22MB0920.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>


John,

Perhaps the car is somehow grateful for your kindness.

I had to google ?sproutpicker?, new one for me, thanks!

Cliff


Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

From: John Macartney<mailto:John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk>
Sent: Sunday, September 6, 2020 5:17 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] The U.K. TR6 driver

I think it?s unlikely this owner is on this list - but just in case, this is for him.

Remember yesterday on the A46 near Bidford on Avon? I was the bloke in the black Volvo C70  convertible who took pity on you stranded at the roadside with a  fuel  metering unit whose timing was out of whack. Some things for you to remember for future reference:

1. I stopped to offer you help out of kindness and curiosity. No emergency mechanic will understand the Lucas injection system fitted on your TR6. I do, having worked on many cars with that equipment when new and I?ve owned three myself.

2. If you choose to drive a classic car, One jack without a handle, no wheelnut spanner at all and a sloppy adjustable spanner does NOT represent a toolkit! Wasn?t it handy that mine was available?

3. If you paid ?30,000 for that car, the seller saw you coming. The engine needs a major rebuild from the racket it makes at idle, the electrics look positively dangerous and the fuel pump is over-fuelling the metering unit. What I did at the roadside in re-timing your metering unit to squirt the correct pipe at least got you running on all six, albeit not smoothly but enough to get you home.

4. I hope you enjoyed the lunch you never stopped telling me you were likely to miss as I worked on your car and...

5. If anyone else ever stops to help you at the roadside when they had no need to themselves, remember it?s customary to say just two words before storming off in a cloud of smoke and crashing gears. Those words? Thank you is the customary in England and a few other places too.

Sproutpicker!

Jonmac



Bessie Braddock: ?Winston! You?re drunk?.
Churchill: ?and you, Madam, are ugly. But tomorrow, I shall be sober but you will still be ugly?.
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cliff_hansen at outlook.com

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From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sun Sep  6 17:33:54 2020
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2020 19:33:54 -0400
Subject: [TR] The U.K. TR6 driver
In-Reply-To: <ADFD0196-B011-439E-8211-E10D8C5A1339@Ukpips.org.uk>
References: <ADFD0196-B011-439E-8211-E10D8C5A1339@Ukpips.org.uk>
Message-ID: <e7aa9cfa-705d-3942-0733-dc99f19b8e37@adelphia.net>

Jonmac,

I have no idea what a Sproutpicker is but I can guess.

You did what good folks do. And I thank you for it.

But did he really pay 30,000 pounds for a TR6? And one that needs 
another 5K in engine work?

Wow. I'll try to remember that the next time I take the 6 out for a 
spin. It has HS6s but runs and sounds just fine.

And no the 6 is not yellow, the 3 is!

By the way, we did pick up a number of British slang terms on the TV 
show "Line of Duty". Great show for anyone interested. My late mom would 
have loved it!

Bob

On 9/6/20 7:16 PM, John Macartney wrote:
> I think it?s unlikely this owner is on this list - but just in case, this is for him.
>
> Remember yesterday on the A46 near Bidford on Avon? I was the bloke in the black Volvo C70  convertible who took pity on you stranded at the roadside with a  fuel  metering unit whose timing was out of whack. Some things for you to remember for future reference:
>
> 1. I stopped to offer you help out of kindness and curiosity. No emergency mechanic will understand the Lucas injection system fitted on your TR6. I do, having worked on many cars with that equipment when new and I?ve owned three myself.
>
> 2. If you choose to drive a classic car, One jack without a handle, no wheelnut spanner at all and a sloppy adjustable spanner does NOT represent a toolkit! Wasn?t it handy that mine was available?
>
> 3. If you paid ?30,000 for that car, the seller saw you coming. The engine needs a major rebuild from the racket it makes at idle, the electrics look positively dangerous and the fuel pump is over-fuelling the metering unit. What I did at the roadside in re-timing your metering unit to squirt the correct pipe at least got you running on all six, albeit not smoothly but enough to get you home.
>
> 4. I hope you enjoyed the lunch you never stopped telling me you were likely to miss as I worked on your car and...
>
> 5. If anyone else ever stops to help you at the roadside when they had no need to themselves, remember it?s customary to say just two words before storming off in a cloud of smoke and crashing gears. Those words? Thank you is the customary in England and a few other places too.
>
> Sproutpicker!
>
> Jonmac
>
>
>
> Bessie Braddock: ?Winston! You?re drunk?.
> Churchill: ?and you, Madam, are ugly. But tomorrow, I shall be sober but you will still be ugly?.
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr at adelphia.net

From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Sun Sep  6 20:36:00 2020
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2020 21:36:00 -0500
Subject: [TR] The U.K. TR6 driver
In-Reply-To: <e7aa9cfa-705d-3942-0733-dc99f19b8e37@adelphia.net>
References: <e7aa9cfa-705d-3942-0733-dc99f19b8e37@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <8EA8CE26-0AA8-429C-A1F1-047537C2269E@yahoo.com>

John,
Well done, as expected you are a true gentleman on it off the road.  

?30k for a TR6?  Sorry you didn?t get his name and number, I have a clapped out Landie I might let go for about ?40k to the right guy.  

Now, I must go re-check my toolkit. 

Bill B
?58 TR3A
?54 Morgan Plus 4
?68 Land Rover
?48 Jeepster

#dontkillgrandma

On Sep 6, 2020, at 6:34 PM, Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net> wrote:

?Jonmac,

I have no idea what a Sproutpicker is but I can guess.

You did what good folks do. And I thank you for it.

But did he really pay 30,000 pounds for a TR6? And one that needs another 5K in engine work?

Wow. I'll try to remember that the next time I take the 6 out for a spin. It has HS6s but runs and sounds just fine.

And no the 6 is not yellow, the 3 is!

By the way, we did pick up a number of British slang terms on the TV show "Line of Duty". Great show for anyone interested. My late mom would have loved it!

Bob

> On 9/6/20 7:16 PM, John Macartney wrote:
> I think it?s unlikely this owner is on this list - but just in case, this is for him.
> 
> Remember yesterday on the A46 near Bidford on Avon? I was the bloke in the black Volvo C70  convertible who took pity on you stranded at the roadside with a  fuel  metering unit whose timing was out of whack. Some things for you to remember for future reference:
> 
> 1. I stopped to offer you help out of kindness and curiosity. No emergency mechanic will understand the Lucas injection system fitted on your TR6. I do, having worked on many cars with that equipment when new and I?ve owned three myself.
> 
> 2. If you choose to drive a classic car, One jack without a handle, no wheelnut spanner at all and a sloppy adjustable spanner does NOT represent a toolkit! Wasn?t it handy that mine was available?
> 
> 3. If you paid ?30,000 for that car, the seller saw you coming. The engine needs a major rebuild from the racket it makes at idle, the electrics look positively dangerous and the fuel pump is over-fuelling the metering unit. What I did at the roadside in re-timing your metering unit to squirt the correct pipe at least got you running on all six, albeit not smoothly but enough to get you home.
> 
> 4. I hope you enjoyed the lunch you never stopped telling me you were likely to miss as I worked on your car and...
> 
> 5. If anyone else ever stops to help you at the roadside when they had no need to themselves, remember it?s customary to say just two words before storming off in a cloud of smoke and crashing gears. Those words? Thank you is the customary in England and a few other places too.
> 
> Sproutpicker!
> 
> Jonmac
> 
> 
> 
> Bessie Braddock: ?Winston! You?re drunk?.
> Churchill: ?and you, Madam, are ugly. But tomorrow, I shall be sober but you will still be ugly?.
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr at adelphia.net
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From rrochlin at comcast.net  Mon Sep  7 06:19:58 2020
From: rrochlin at comcast.net (Rochlin Robert)
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 2020 08:19:58 -0400
Subject: [TR] The U.K. TR6 driver
In-Reply-To: <ADFD0196-B011-439E-8211-E10D8C5A1339@Ukpips.org.uk>
References: <ADFD0196-B011-439E-8211-E10D8C5A1339@Ukpips.org.uk>
Message-ID: <DD83AFB8-6229-4FE6-BDFA-A1C7059A449E@comcast.net>

John,
	This individuals poor manners and boorish behavior do not diminish your good intentions in stopping to help him.  99.99% of people in a similar circumstance would be extremely appreciative of your help and consideration. I think that we?ve all been in a place where we were so glad of someone stopped to help us out.
	Best,
	Bob

> On Sep 6, 2020, at 7:16 PM, John Macartney <john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk> wrote:
> 
> I think it?s unlikely this owner is on this list - but just in case, this is for him.
> 
> Remember yesterday on the A46 near Bidford on Avon? I was the bloke in the black Volvo C70  convertible who took pity on you stranded at the roadside with a  fuel  metering unit whose timing was out of whack. Some things for you to remember for future reference:
> 
> 1. I stopped to offer you help out of kindness and curiosity. No emergency mechanic will understand the Lucas injection system fitted on your TR6. I do, having worked on many cars with that equipment when new and I?ve owned three myself.
> 
> 2. If you choose to drive a classic car, One jack without a handle, no wheelnut spanner at all and a sloppy adjustable spanner does NOT represent a toolkit! Wasn?t it handy that mine was available?
> 
> 3. If you paid ?30,000 for that car, the seller saw you coming. The engine needs a major rebuild from the racket it makes at idle, the electrics look positively dangerous and the fuel pump is over-fuelling the metering unit. What I did at the roadside in re-timing your metering unit to squirt the correct pipe at least got you running on all six, albeit not smoothly but enough to get you home.
> 
> 4. I hope you enjoyed the lunch you never stopped telling me you were likely to miss as I worked on your car and...
> 
> 5. If anyone else ever stops to help you at the roadside when they had no need to themselves, remember it?s customary to say just two words before storming off in a cloud of smoke and crashing gears. Those words? Thank you is the customary in England and a few other places too.
> 
> Sproutpicker!
> 
> Jonmac
> 
> 
> 
> Bessie Braddock: ?Winston! You?re drunk?.
> Churchill: ?and you, Madam, are ugly. But tomorrow, I shall be sober but you will still be ugly?.
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rrochlin at comcast.net


From joemato at sbcglobal.net  Mon Sep  7 12:45:27 2020
From: joemato at sbcglobal.net (JOSEPH MATO)
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 2020 18:45:27 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR 6 oilfilter
References: <169234508.4079967.1599504327635.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <169234508.4079967.1599504327635@mail.yahoo.com>

??I wonder who designed this vehicle knowing that we like to occasionally change the oil filter. After trying gymnastics to remove the canister, we loosened the clutch slave cylinder which did the trick. Then installed a spin-on adapter which made the job easy. My question is why would they make a routine chore next to impossible. The opposite of the TR3 where most everything is open. Thank God my wife was able to get in there!? Joe Mato
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From fishplate at gmail.com  Mon Sep  7 14:00:33 2020
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 2020 16:00:33 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR 6 oilfilter
In-Reply-To: <169234508.4079967.1599504327635@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <169234508.4079967.1599504327635.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <169234508.4079967.1599504327635@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAO8Q7COz0XLxJ750KhTWYzmGkRjQAB1uhm8S8dS=E5rN70Kupg@mail.gmail.com>

Legend has it that it works just fine when the steering shaft is on the
proper side of the car...

On Mon, Sep 7, 2020 at 2:46 PM JOSEPH MATO <joemato at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

>   I wonder who designed this vehicle knowing that we like to occasionally
> change the oil filter. After trying gymnastics to remove the canister, we
> loosened the clutch slave cylinder which did the trick. Then installed a
> spin-on adapter which made the job easy. My question is why would they make
> a routine chore next to impossible. The opposite of the TR3 where most
> everything is open. Thank God my wife was able to get in there!  Joe Mato
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fishplate at gmail.com
>
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From John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk  Mon Sep  7 15:15:28 2020
From: John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 2020 22:15:28 +0100
Subject: [TR] TR 6 oilfilter
In-Reply-To: <CAO8Q7COz0XLxJ750KhTWYzmGkRjQAB1uhm8S8dS=E5rN70Kupg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <169234508.4079967.1599504327635.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <169234508.4079967.1599504327635@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAO8Q7COz0XLxJ750KhTWYzmGkRjQAB1uhm8S8dS=E5rN70Kupg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <F2898B3D-4A91-4604-B8E3-9AAB959845A2@Ukpips.org.uk>

Oil filter access a problem on the six pot engine? Never bothered me on my cars - GT6 mk2, 2000TC and 2.5PI. In fact, the spin on conversion made it even easier:)

Jonmac

Bessie Braddock: ?Winston! You?re drunk?.
Churchill: ?and you, Madam, are ugly. But tomorrow, I shall be sober but you will still be ugly?.

> On 7 Sep 2020, at 21:00, Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Legend has it that it works just fine when the steering shaft is on the proper side of the car...
> 
>> On Mon, Sep 7, 2020 at 2:46 PM JOSEPH MATO <joemato at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>>   I wonder who designed this vehicle knowing that we like to occasionally change the oil filter. After trying gymnastics to remove the canister, we loosened the clutch slave cylinder which did the trick. Then installed a spin-on adapter which made the job easy. My question is why would they make a routine chore next to impossible. The opposite of the TR3 where most everything is open. Thank God my wife was able to get in there!  Joe Mato
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fishplate at gmail.com
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk
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From grglmn at gmail.com  Mon Sep  7 15:27:10 2020
From: grglmn at gmail.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 2020 16:27:10 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR 6 oilfilter
In-Reply-To: <169234508.4079967.1599504327635@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <169234508.4079967.1599504327635.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <169234508.4079967.1599504327635@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAFtw3aaNWeoMLft60CkeohAnG-SjxG0x41urv__SvML9Zoy8ew@mail.gmail.com>

I can barely bleed the clutch or change the oil with the spin on filter,
can't imagine the canister being worse, but maybe I don't have the same
aftermarket setup.

Greg Lemon
TR250

On Mon, Sep 7, 2020, 1:45 PM JOSEPH MATO <joemato at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

>   I wonder who designed this vehicle knowing that we like to occasionally
> change the oil filter. After trying gymnastics to remove the canister, we
> loosened the clutch slave cylinder which did the trick. Then installed a
> spin-on adapter which made the job easy. My question is why would they make
> a routine chore next to impossible. The opposite of the TR3 where most
> everything is open. Thank God my wife was able to get in there!  Joe Mato
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/grglmn at gmail.com
>
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From ptegler at verizon.net  Mon Sep  7 17:39:54 2020
From: ptegler at verizon.net (Paul Tegler)
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 2020 19:39:54 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR 6 oilfilter
In-Reply-To: <CAFtw3aaNWeoMLft60CkeohAnG-SjxG0x41urv__SvML9Zoy8ew@mail.gmail.com>
References: <169234508.4079967.1599504327635.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <169234508.4079967.1599504327635@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAFtw3aaNWeoMLft60CkeohAnG-SjxG0x41urv__SvML9Zoy8ew@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <49df6581-dae6-41dc-688d-e8fa58f9aceb@verizon.net>

A remote filter is how I solved my filter issue. I had even less room 
having moved the engine back...
I blocked off the original filter and tapped right into the block for a 
remote mounted filter on FIS6
 ?(2L 6 pot in a Spit...but same block same issues with clearance)

ptegler



On 9/7/2020 5:27 PM, Greg Lemon wrote:
> I can barely bleed the clutch or change the oil with the spin on 
> filter, can't imagine the canister being worse, but maybe I don't have 
> the same aftermarket setup.
>
> Greg Lemon
> TR250
>
> On Mon, Sep 7, 2020, 1:45 PM JOSEPH MATO <joemato at sbcglobal.net 
> <mailto:joemato at sbcglobal.net>> wrote:
>
>     ??I wonder who designed this vehicle knowing that we like to
>     occasionally change the oil filter. After trying gymnastics to
>     remove the canister, we loosened the clutch slave cylinder which
>     did the trick. Then installed a spin-on adapter which made the job
>     easy. My question is why would they make a routine chore next to
>     impossible. The opposite of the TR3 where most everything is open.
>     Thank God my wife was able to get in there!? Joe Mato
>     ** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.teamnet> **
>
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
>     http://www.team.net/archive
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/grglmn at gmail.com
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net

-- 
Paul Tegler
ptegler at verizon.net  www.teglerizer.com

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From dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Sep  7 18:24:03 2020
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2020 00:24:03 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR 6 oilfilter
In-Reply-To: <169234508.4079967.1599504327635@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <169234508.4079967.1599504327635.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <169234508.4079967.1599504327635@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <205078349.3241655.1599524643582@mail.yahoo.com>

 The diagram in the operator's manual shows someone changing the filter on a RHD car.? With no steering shaft in the way it is EASY!
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: JOSEPH MATO <joemato at sbcglobal.net>
To: TR List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Sep 7, 2020 1:45 pm
Subject: [TR] TR 6 oilfilter

??I wonder who designed this vehicle knowing that we like to occasionally change the oil filter. After trying gymnastics to remove the canister, we loosened the clutch slave cylinder which did the trick. Then installed a spin-on adapter which made the job easy. My question is why would they make a routine chore next to impossible. The opposite of the TR3 where most everything is open. Thank God my wife was able to get in there!? Joe Mato** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com
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From dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Sep  7 18:33:13 2020
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2020 00:33:13 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR 6 oilfilter
In-Reply-To: <CAFtw3aaNWeoMLft60CkeohAnG-SjxG0x41urv__SvML9Zoy8ew@mail.gmail.com>
References: <169234508.4079967.1599504327635.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <169234508.4079967.1599504327635@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAFtw3aaNWeoMLft60CkeohAnG-SjxG0x41urv__SvML9Zoy8ew@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2006862355.3245482.1599525193285@mail.yahoo.com>

 I find the spin-on filter adapter a huge improvement over the stock.? For one, the oil pressure builds up much more quickly upon start-up.? Also if you angle the filter a little towards the front bleeding the clutch is unimpaired.? Since my car has an early oil pan with the drain plug in the front, no issues.
But the first point is the big deal.
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Greg Lemon <grglmn at gmail.com>
To: JOSEPH MATO <joemato at sbcglobal.net>
Cc: TR List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Sep 7, 2020 4:27 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] TR 6 oilfilter

I can barely bleed the clutch or change the oil with the spin on filter, can't imagine the canister being worse, but maybe I don't have the same aftermarket setup.
Greg LemonTR250
On Mon, Sep 7, 2020, 1:45 PM JOSEPH MATO <joemato at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

??I wonder who designed this vehicle knowing that we like to occasionally change the oil filter. After trying gymnastics to remove the canister, we loosened the clutch slave cylinder which did the trick. Then installed a spin-on adapter which made the job easy. My question is why would they make a routine chore next to impossible. The opposite of the TR3 where most everything is open. Thank God my wife was able to get in there!? Joe Mato** triumphs at autox.team.net **


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From mbarre at juno.com  Mon Sep  7 19:29:29 2020
From: mbarre at juno.com (Matt)
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2020 01:29:29 GMT
Subject: [TR] Embarrassing, but, stuck driver's door on GT6
Message-ID: <20200907.212929.13248.0@webmail08.vgs.untd.com>

Does the offside door work?
Slide over and try putting your weight on it from the inside.



---------- Original Message ----------
From: Michael Porter <mdporter at dfn.com>
To: Triumphs <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Embarrassing, but, stuck driver's door on GT6
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 2020 19:29:52 -0600

Mea culpa, mea culpa, I haven't driven the GT6 in a long time and the 
code enforcement nazis in town are making me get rid of it unless I can 
prove it runs.? It needed a new battery, so I got one (when did 
batteries get sooo expensive?).? Needed fuel, put some in it.

But, now, I can't get into it.? The outer door handle broke a long time 
ago, so I just left the window part-way open so I could reach in and 
open it with the interior door pull.? But that doesn't work now.? It's 
really, really stuck.? Won't budge a bit, almost like it was welded 
shut.? Now, there were chips in the paint on the door seam like someone 
may have tried to pop the door open with a screwdriver, but, I'm not 
sure that's the problem.? I think the lock and pawl are just plain 
frozen.? The actuating lever on the latch mechanism does move, as does 
the locking slide.

I've been bumping, prying, cussing to no avail.? Any ideas?


Cheers.

-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....


** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From mark at bradakis.com  Mon Sep  7 21:50:21 2020
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Mon, 7 Sep 2020 21:50:21 -0600
Subject: [TR] Embarrassing, but, stuck driver's door on GT6
In-Reply-To: <20200907.212929.13248.0@webmail08.vgs.untd.com>
References: <20200907.212929.13248.0@webmail08.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <99b4dbad-8587-7457-9f9b-1a34c580f5cc@bradakis.com>

On 9/7/20 7:29 PM, Matt wrote:
> Does the offside door work?
> Slide over and try putting your weight on it from the inside.
>

That's pretty funny!? Getting in the passenger side of a GT6 and just 
sliding over to the driver's side!

mjb.



From dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Sep  8 05:07:01 2020
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2020 11:07:01 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Embarrassing, but, stuck driver's door on GT6
In-Reply-To: <99b4dbad-8587-7457-9f9b-1a34c580f5cc@bradakis.com>
References: <20200907.212929.13248.0@webmail08.vgs.untd.com>
 <99b4dbad-8587-7457-9f9b-1a34c580f5cc@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <204760793.3355986.1599563221043@mail.yahoo.com>

 I'll bet Harry Houdini could do it.
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Mon, Sep 7, 2020 10:50 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] Embarrassing, but, stuck driver's door on GT6

On 9/7/20 7:29 PM, Matt wrote:
> Does the offside door work?
> Slide over and try putting your weight on it from the inside.
>

That's pretty funny!? Getting in the passenger side of a GT6 and just 
sliding over to the driver's side!

mjb.


** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From triumphstag at gmail.com  Tue Sep  8 10:06:29 2020
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2020 09:06:29 -0700
Subject: [TR] can I test a distributor with the following?
Message-ID: <CANLCLaGHTh_bHds67fQZz3jsH-9n6LMAib3nyQy3V08i14wA3Q@mail.gmail.com>

My son has a few ARDUINOs and Raspberry pies and a Picoscope. ( Cheap
oscilloscope probes which works with a PC). Are there any suggestions if
any of these can be used to test the centrifugal parts of a distributor and
how?
I do have a timing gun.

Sujit

-- 
Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California

https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
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From trguy75 at gmail.com  Wed Sep  9 15:14:14 2020
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen)
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2020 17:14:14 -0400
Subject: [TR] Alternator Question TR4A
Message-ID: <0ee301d686ee$2bf0d430$83d27c90$@gmail.com>

List:
I am working on my latest addition, a 67 TR4A.   The previous owner put an
84 Nissan Sentra Hitachi alternator in place of the generator and also added
the voltage regulator dummy. It all works fine.   I just replaced the water
pump and I believe it failed since the alternator was only mounted on the
front lower ear mounting (same as lower mount for generator) and adjustment
ear on top.  It did not have a mount to the rear ear so it could be twisted
slightly by hand.  It is mounted to the stock generator bracket attached to
the block and has the original large spacer nut with threaded hole to mount
lower ear.  I am trying to engineer a solution to mount the rear lower ear
to the original left generator mounting bracket attached to bloc.  I put a
3/8 shouldered bolt in but still has some play throught the holes in the
alternator.  Ugh is all I have to say.  

I know Moss sells a complete kit with Lucas alternator, but I really want an
alternator that I can replace at local parts store.  Does anyone have the do
it yourself instructions with parts used for mounting an alternator so it is
stable without wobble, recommendation on easy access alternator (GM 10SI?
Have that in my TR6).  Ive been in the TR hobby for over25 years but haven't
come across the home mechanic solution.  Seems like this has to be
documented somewhere.  

Any help greatly appreciated!
Jim Henningsen
61 TR3A
62 TR4
67 TR4A
75 TR6
81 TR8     


From forzion7 at gmail.com  Wed Sep  9 15:28:39 2020
From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2020 17:28:39 -0400
Subject: [TR] Exhaust tip
Message-ID: <CAJ1eQwgeKXtM++qwNgEOeLAaCMrFT8yujsh=JqhSM_1GrQnyHw@mail.gmail.com>

Hey all ~

I recently i stalled a new [stock] exhaust system on my TR3 and it
sounds fine but I note the rear tailpipe/exhaust tip only reached a
point flush with the back of the body. Is there some rule-of-thumb
for how much extension a rear tailpipe should have?

Thanks,

Dave Friedlander
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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Wed Sep  9 15:35:51 2020
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2020 16:35:51 -0500
Subject: [TR] Exhaust tip
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwgeKXtM++qwNgEOeLAaCMrFT8yujsh=JqhSM_1GrQnyHw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwgeKXtM++qwNgEOeLAaCMrFT8yujsh=JqhSM_1GrQnyHw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4CCA3D8E-F730-4B08-A568-1B0C4FB096DD@yahoo.com>

Probably a subjective answer but I like mine about 1/2? past the bumper. 

Bill

#dontkillgrandma

On Sep 9, 2020, at 4:29 PM, David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com> wrote:

?
Hey all ~

I recently i stalled a new [stock] exhaust system on my TR3 and it 
sounds fine but I note the rear tailpipe/exhaust tip only reached a 
point flush with the back of the body. Is there some rule-of-thumb 
for how much extension a rear tailpipe should have?

Thanks,

Dave Friedlander
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From dave at ranteer.com  Wed Sep  9 15:50:49 2020
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2020 16:50:49 -0500
Subject: [TR] Exhaust tip
In-Reply-To: <4CCA3D8E-F730-4B08-A568-1B0C4FB096DD@yahoo.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwgeKXtM++qwNgEOeLAaCMrFT8yujsh=JqhSM_1GrQnyHw@mail.gmail.com>
 <4CCA3D8E-F730-4B08-A568-1B0C4FB096DD@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000801d686f3$48508620$d8f19260$@ranteer.com>

+1

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of bill beecher
Sent: Wednesday, September 9, 2020 4:36 PM
To: David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com>
Cc: TR3 Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>; New England Triumphs <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
Subject: Re: [TR] Exhaust tip

 

Probably a subjective answer but I like mine about 1/2? past the bumper. 

 

Bill

#dontkillgrandma


On Sep 9, 2020, at 4:29 PM, David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com <mailto:forzion7 at gmail.com> > wrote:

?

Hey all ~

 

I recently i stalled a new [stock] exhaust system on my TR3 and it 

sounds fine but I note the rear tailpipe/exhaust tip only reached a 

point flush with the back of the body. Is there some rule-of-thumb 

for how much extension a rear tailpipe should have?

 

Thanks,

 

Dave Friedlander

** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>  **

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From bk13 at earthlink.net  Tue Sep  8 18:10:22 2020
From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp)
Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2020 17:10:22 -0700
Subject: [TR] Embarrassing, but, stuck driver's door on GT6
In-Reply-To: <99b4dbad-8587-7457-9f9b-1a34c580f5cc@bradakis.com>
References: <20200907.212929.13248.0@webmail08.vgs.untd.com>
 <99b4dbad-8587-7457-9f9b-1a34c580f5cc@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <8714981d-a280-e0aa-359a-b81d701335be@earthlink.net>

Got a laugh out of this.? Until I replaced my GT6 driver's side handle 
latch assembly, I was reaching over from the passenger side to pull the 
driver's side door latch, but no chance what so ever of actually getting 
myself in the driver's side seat.? The GT6 almost makes the inside of my 
TR6 seem like a 70's Cadillac.

Brian

On 9/7/2020 8:50 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote:
> On 9/7/20 7:29 PM, Matt wrote:
>> Does the offside door work?
>> Slide over and try putting your weight on it from the inside.
>>
>
> That's pretty funny!? Getting in the passenger side of a GT6 and just 
> sliding over to the driver's side!
>
> mjb.
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs 
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bk13 at earthlink.net


From staffel at comcast.net  Thu Sep 10 15:31:33 2020
From: staffel at comcast.net (staffel)
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 2020 17:31:33 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 DELCO ALTERNATOR MOD
Message-ID: <mailman.2.1599773525.3211.triumphs@autox.team.net>


Hi again Jim. Years ago modified my TR4 to 60 amp (?) Standard Delco alternator. I MODIFIED THE ORIGINAL VOLTAGE REGULATOR BOX, Keeping the Box in place so it looks original.Can send you pics of the regulator changed inside. I did? Document? and shared with this list at the time. And a couple members made some comments. I also? had a whole write up & pics on the web; but Comcast/ home.net didn't save my website when Comcast evolved ( no notifications) & all my jpegs were on floppy disks.?Dating the Mod. Had to be @ 1998-2000.Now the GM alternator comes with a? pulley that takes a thin belt. So I used & modified my original TR4 pulley to the shaft of the Delco alternator.Then I measured to find a belt that would work with the Alternator mounting brackets.I first found a farm tractor belt & had mm markings, but replaced with THIS NAPA BELT?25-24379.I need to do some cleanup & repainting but I used a threaded rod? with washers/nuts for the alternator pivot into the original TR block bracket on the bottom. For the top bracket I can't remember if it was the original TR generator bracket or one I sourced from an old GM Mercruiser 260 engine. But that's the easy part. The key was the pulley &? belt mod as I wanted to keep the TR4 original size? crank pulley & water pump pulleySherman?If you want more pics, you have my cell 410-302-3930 & email.Sherman?Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S10, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable smartphone
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From jholekamp at sbcglobal.net  Thu Sep 10 15:56:27 2020
From: jholekamp at sbcglobal.net (Jay Holekamp)
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 2020 16:56:27 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 Delco Alternator Mod
In-Reply-To: <mailman.136.1599773524.3214.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.136.1599773524.3214.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <mailman.3.1599774994.3211.triumphs@autox.team.net>


https://web.archive.org/web/20031002...nversions.html

https://web.archive.org/web/20031013...r/gm-tr4a.html

brgds, Jay


From: triumphs-request at autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, September 10, 2020 4:43 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Triumphs Digest, Vol 13, Issue 241

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Today's Topics:

   1. TR4 DELCO ALTERNATOR MOD (staffel)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 2020 17:31:33 -0400
From: staffel <staffel at comcast.net>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net, trguy75 at gmail.com
Cc: staffel at comcast.net
Subject: [TR] TR4 DELCO ALTERNATOR MOD
Message-ID: <mailman.137.1599773524.3214.triumphs at autox.team.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"


Hi again Jim. Years ago modified my TR4 to 60 amp (?) Standard Delco alternator. I MODIFIED THE ORIGINAL VOLTAGE REGULATOR BOX, Keeping the Box in place so it looks original.Can send you pics of the regulator changed inside. I did? Document? and shared with this list at the time. And a couple members made some comments. I also? had a whole write up & pics on the web; but Comcast/ home.net didn't save my website when Comcast evolved ( no notifications) & all my jpegs were on floppy disks.?Dating the Mod. Had to be @ 1998-2000.Now the GM alternator comes with a? pulley that takes a thin belt. So I used & modified my original TR4 pulley to the shaft of the Delco alternator.Then I measured to find a belt that would work with the Alternator mounting brackets.I first found a farm tractor belt & had mm markings, but replaced with THIS NAPA BELT?25-24379.I need to do some cleanup & repainting but I used a threaded rod? with washers/nuts for the alternator pivot into the original TR block bra
 cket on the bottom. For the top bracket I can't remember if it was the original TR generator bracket or one I sourced from an old GM Mercruiser 260 engine. But that's the easy part. The key was the pulley &? belt mod as I wanted to keep the TR4 original size? crank pulley & water pump pulleySherman?If you want more pics, you have my cell 410-302-3930 & email.Sherman?Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S10, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable smartphone
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------------------------------

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From dlhogye at comcast.net  Thu Sep 10 17:40:03 2020
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (Dave)
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 2020 16:40:03 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 DELCO ALTERNATOR MOD
In-Reply-To: <20200910213502.CAA80A0D1E@autox.team.net>
References: <20200910213502.CAA80A0D1E@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <07C16C97-2FAF-48A8-A628-DBF4028C81F3@comcast.net>

Excuse me, but it looks like your water pump pulley is missing the nut, and there should be a threaded stud protruding there too.  Just in case you may haven't noticed.
Dave H. 

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 10, 2020, at 2:31 PM, staffel <staffel at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> Hi again Jim. Years ago modified my TR4 to 60 amp (?) Standard Delco alternator. I MODIFIED THE ORIGINAL VOLTAGE REGULATOR BOX, Keeping the Box in place so it looks original.Can send you pics of the regulator changed inside. I did  Document  and shared with this list at the time. And a couple members made some comments. I also  had a whole write up & pics on the web; but Comcast/ home.net didn't save my website when Comcast evolved ( no notifications) & all my jpegs were on floppy disks. 
> Dating the Mod. Had to be @ 1998-2000.
> 
> Now the GM alternator comes with a  pulley that takes a thin belt. So I used & modified my original TR4 pulley to the shaft of the Delco alternator.
> Then I measured to find a belt that would work with the Alternator mounting brackets.
> I first found a farm tractor belt & had mm markings, but replaced with THIS NAPA BELT 25-24379.
> 
> I need to do some cleanup & repainting but I used a threaded rod  with washers/nuts for the alternator pivot into the original TR block bracket on the bottom. For the top bracket I can't remember if it was the original TR generator bracket or one I sourced from an old GM Mercruiser 260 engine. But that's the easy part. The key was the pulley &  belt mod as I wanted to keep the TR4 original size  crank pulley & water pump pulley
> Sherman 
> If you want more pics, you have my cell 410-302-3930 & email.
> Sherman 
> 
> Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S10, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable smartphone
> 
> <20200910_163843.jpg>
> <20200910_163615.jpg>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
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From fishplate at gmail.com  Thu Sep 10 18:12:25 2020
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 2020 20:12:25 -0400
Subject: [TR] can I test a distributor with the following?
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaGHTh_bHds67fQZz3jsH-9n6LMAib3nyQy3V08i14wA3Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaGHTh_bHds67fQZz3jsH-9n6LMAib3nyQy3V08i14wA3Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAO8Q7CNFn5JTXE=tx=3SQQcPwkjsxVFM4Aacja4fXcooMYPG6Q@mail.gmail.com>

Are you just trying to see if it advances?   I feel like you don't need all
that fancy stuff for that.  But it would take some rigging, and a variable
speed motor.

On Wed, Sep 9, 2020 at 3:01 PM Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com> wrote:

> My son has a few ARDUINOs and Raspberry pies and a Picoscope. ( Cheap
> oscilloscope probes which works with a PC). Are there any suggestions if
> any of these can be used to test the centrifugal parts of a distributor and
> how?
> I do have a timing gun.
>
> Sujit
>
> --
> Sujit Roy
> Cupertino, California
>
> https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
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From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Thu Sep 10 18:25:34 2020
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 2020 17:25:34 -0700
Subject: [TR] can I test a distributor with the following?
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaGHTh_bHds67fQZz3jsH-9n6LMAib3nyQy3V08i14wA3Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaGHTh_bHds67fQZz3jsH-9n6LMAib3nyQy3V08i14wA3Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bH6Cy+yS51f1Tu8KMbH_MXpmgcPct4zqbaAPsUjDkL_Mg@mail.gmail.com>

A friend has one of these which is the best way to assess
centrifugal advance...

[image: Sun.JPG]

But I can get a pretty accurate curve by just using a timing light with an
advance dial to get readings at various RPMs then plotting on a graph.

[image: Advance Curve 2.JPG]

Geo

On Wed, Sep 9, 2020 at 12:00 PM Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com> wrote:

> My son has a few ARDUINOs and Raspberry pies and a Picoscope. ( Cheap
> oscilloscope probes which works with a PC). Are there any suggestions if
> any of these can be used to test the centrifugal parts of a distributor and
> how?
> I do have a timing gun.
>
> Sujit
>
> --
> Sujit Roy
> Cupertino, California
>
> https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com
>
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From cliff_hansen at outlook.com  Thu Sep 10 18:59:23 2020
From: cliff_hansen at outlook.com (Cliff Hansen)
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 2020 00:59:23 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR4 DELCO ALTERNATOR MOD
In-Reply-To: <07C16C97-2FAF-48A8-A628-DBF4028C81F3@comcast.net>
References: <20200910213502.CAA80A0D1E@autox.team.net>,
 <07C16C97-2FAF-48A8-A628-DBF4028C81F3@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CY4PR22MB0920D6387BE1AF27BDF810EEFA240@CY4PR22MB0920.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>

I?d guess that?s a Quinton-Hazel pump. I?ve got one, uses a press-on pulley.


Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

From: Dave<mailto:dlhogye at comcast.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 10, 2020 5:42 PM
To: staffel<mailto:staffel at comcast.net>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 DELCO ALTERNATOR MOD

Excuse me, but it looks like your water pump pulley is missing the nut, and there should be a threaded stud protruding there too.  Just in case you may haven't noticed.
Dave H.

Sent from my iPad

On Sep 10, 2020, at 2:31 PM, staffel <staffel at comcast.net<mailto:staffel at comcast.net>> wrote:
Hi again Jim. Years ago modified my TR4 to 60 amp (?) Standard Delco alternator. I MODIFIED THE ORIGINAL VOLTAGE REGULATOR BOX, Keeping the Box in place so it looks original.Can send you pics of the regulator changed inside. I did  Document  and shared with this list at the time. And a couple members made some comments. I also  had a whole write up & pics on the web; but Comcast/ home.net<http://home.net> didn't save my website when Comcast evolved ( no notifications) & all my jpegs were on floppy disks.
Dating the Mod. Had to be @ 1998-2000.

Now the GM alternator comes with a  pulley that takes a thin belt. So I used & modified my original TR4 pulley to the shaft of the Delco alternator.
Then I measured to find a belt that would work with the Alternator mounting brackets.
I first found a farm tractor belt & had mm markings, but replaced with THIS NAPA BELT 25-24379.

I need to do some cleanup & repainting but I used a threaded rod  with washers/nuts for the alternator pivot into the original TR block bracket on the bottom. For the top bracket I can't remember if it was the original TR generator bracket or one I sourced from an old GM Mercruiser 260 engine. But that's the easy part. The key was the pulley &  belt mod as I wanted to keep the TR4 original size  crank pulley & water pump pulley
Sherman
If you want more pics, you have my cell 410-302-3930 & email.
Sherman

Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S10, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable smartphone

<20200910_163843.jpg>
<20200910_163615.jpg>
** triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From dlhogye at comcast.net  Thu Sep 10 21:03:52 2020
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE)
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 2020 20:03:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR4 DELCO ALTERNATOR MOD
In-Reply-To: <CY4PR22MB0920D6387BE1AF27BDF810EEFA240@CY4PR22MB0920.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
References: <20200910213502.CAA80A0D1E@autox.team.net>,
 <07C16C97-2FAF-48A8-A628-DBF4028C81F3@comcast.net>
 <CY4PR22MB0920D6387BE1AF27BDF810EEFA240@CY4PR22MB0920.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <327934334.4246.1599793432822@connect.xfinity.com>

Well, one learns something new every day.  That's interesting.  I'll have to see if I have one lying around in my, " to be scrapped", bin.  
Thanks for the enlightenment. 
Dave H. 

>     On 09/10/2020 5:59 PM Cliff Hansen <cliff_hansen at outlook.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
>     I?d guess that?s a Quinton-Hazel pump. I?ve got one, uses a press-on pulley.
> 
> 
> 
>     Sent from Mail https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986 for Windows 10
> 
> 
>     From: Dave mailto:dlhogye at comcast.net
>     Sent: Thursday, September 10, 2020 5:42 PM
>     To: staffel mailto:staffel at comcast.net
>     Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net
>     Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 DELCO ALTERNATOR MOD
> 
> 
>     Excuse me, but it looks like your water pump pulley is missing the nut, and there should be a threaded stud protruding there too.  Just in case you may haven't noticed.
> 
>     Dave H. 
> 
> 
>     Sent from my iPad
> 
> 
>     On Sep 10, 2020, at 2:31 PM, staffel <staffel at comcast.net mailto:staffel at comcast.net > wrote:
> 
>         > > 
> >         Hi again Jim. Years ago modified my TR4 to 60 amp (?) Standard Delco alternator. I MODIFIED THE ORIGINAL VOLTAGE REGULATOR BOX, Keeping the Box in place so it looks original.Can send you pics of the regulator changed inside. I did  Document  and shared with this list at the time. And a couple members made some comments. I also  had a whole write up & pics on the web; but Comcast/http://home.net didn't save my website when Comcast evolved ( no notifications) & all my jpegs were on floppy disks. 
> > 
> >         Dating the Mod. Had to be @ 1998-2000.
> > 
> > 
> >         Now the GM alternator comes with a  pulley that takes a thin belt. So I used & modified my original TR4 pulley to the shaft of the Delco alternator.
> > 
> >         Then I measured to find a belt that would work with the Alternator mounting brackets.
> > 
> >         I first found a farm tractor belt & had mm markings, but replaced with THIS NAPA BELT 25-24379.
> > 
> > 
> >         I need to do some cleanup & repainting but I used a threaded rod  with washers/nuts for the alternator pivot into the original TR block bracket on the bottom. For the top bracket I can't remember if it was the original TR generator bracket or one I sourced from an old GM Mercruiser 260 engine. But that's the easy part. The key was the pulley &  belt mod as I wanted to keep the TR4 original size  crank pulley & water pump pulley
> > 
> >         Sherman 
> > 
> >         If you want more pics, you have my cell 410-302-3930 & email.
> > 
> >         Sherman 
> > 
> > 
> >         Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S10, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable smartphone
> > 
> > 
> >     > 
>         > > 
> >         <20200910_163843.jpg>
> > 
> >     > 
>         > > 
> >         <20200910_163615.jpg>
> > 
> >     > 
>         ** triumphs at autox.team.net mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
>         Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>         Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
>         Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye at comcast.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye at comcast.net
> 
> 
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From triumphstag at gmail.com  Thu Sep 10 23:37:21 2020
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Thu, 10 Sep 2020 22:37:21 -0700
Subject: [TR] Tr 8 tr7 clubs
Message-ID: <CANLCLaFdgyDQczHzW9-RwH4svQ5i99CHBdioNfjsywdtDNeG9w@mail.gmail.com>

Do any of the club's have unavailable parts made? The Stag club out of uk
does work with a few folks and manufacture stuff. Im wondering if anyone
have  6 vane  impellers for the water pump made.
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From trguy75 at gmail.com  Fri Sep 11 06:11:41 2020
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen)
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 2020 08:11:41 -0400
Subject: [TR] Old VTR link issue
Message-ID: <005701d68834$b651a810$22f4f830$@gmail.com>

Anyone know where to find the instructions from Dan Masters on alternator
installs by Triumph model that used to be at the following location:

https://vintagetriumphregister.org/alternator-conversiona/#problems

I have the TR2/TR3 one, TR4A found on another list serv embedded in a
response.  Seems like these links would be great to have back up at VTR. My
project this week is finding all the scattered bits created over the years
on upgrading our TRs to an alternator.

Jim Henningsen
Ocala, FL


From dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Sep 11 06:52:53 2020
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 2020 12:52:53 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] can I test a distributor with the following?
In-Reply-To: <CANzE1bH6Cy+yS51f1Tu8KMbH_MXpmgcPct4zqbaAPsUjDkL_Mg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaGHTh_bHds67fQZz3jsH-9n6LMAib3nyQy3V08i14wA3Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANzE1bH6Cy+yS51f1Tu8KMbH_MXpmgcPct4zqbaAPsUjDkL_Mg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1124957677.1064277.1599828773330@mail.yahoo.com>

 Of course, if you have a running engine and a timing light you have all you need.
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com>
To: Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, Sep 10, 2020 7:25 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] can I test a distributor with the following?

A friend has one of these which is the best way to assess centrifugal?advance...

But I can get a pretty accurate curve by just using a timing light with an advance dial to get readings at various RPMs then plotting on a graph.


Geo?
On Wed, Sep 9, 2020 at 12:00 PM Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com> wrote:

My son has a few ARDUINOs and Raspberry pies and a Picoscope. ( Cheap oscilloscope probes which works with a PC). Are there any suggestions if any of these can be used to test the centrifugal parts of a distributor and how?
I do have a timing gun.

Sujit

-- 
Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California

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From McGaheyRx at aol.com  Fri Sep 11 07:58:03 2020
From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (Jack McGahey)
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 2020 09:58:03 -0400
Subject: [TR] Old VTR link issue
In-Reply-To: <005701d68834$b651a810$22f4f830$@gmail.com>
References: <005701d68834$b651a810$22f4f830$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <ECBB472D-77FE-431D-90D9-98FB04C176E6@aol.com>

Jim, the VTR web master is on it - I think he can locate the material and fix the links.

Cheers 
Jack Mc

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 11, 2020, at 8:11 AM, Jim Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Anyone know where to find the instructions from Dan Masters on alternator
> installs by Triumph model that used to be at the following location:
> 
> https://vintagetriumphregister.org/alternator-conversiona/#problems
> 
> I have the TR2/TR3 one, TR4A found on another list serv embedded in a
> response.  Seems like these links would be great to have back up at VTR. My
> project this week is finding all the scattered bits created over the years
> on upgrading our TRs to an alternator.
> 
> Jim Henningsen
> Ocala, FL
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mcgaheyrx at aol.com


From forzion7 at gmail.com  Fri Sep 11 11:36:48 2020
From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 2020 13:36:48 -0400
Subject: [TR] [NET] Exhaust tip
In-Reply-To: <5f5ba0f1.1c69fb81.38cae.1f3dSMTPIN_ADDED_MISSING@mx.google.com>
References: <286196786.500906.1599694767449@mail.yahoo.com>
 <5f5ba0f1.1c69fb81.38cae.1f3dSMTPIN_ADDED_MISSING@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <CAJ1eQwhQzQVN8NpWqtMaNgeexuqHMhRgsbcGxZ+7fRviVthT8Q@mail.gmail.com>

Good point, Charlie. I'd also want to help direct exhaust fumes
away from the car... especially at idle.

I remember, some years ago, having this discussion for my TR6,
too.

Dave

On Fri, Sep 11, 2020 at 12:08 PM chahles via NET <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
wrote:

> When I did the new exhaust system on my TR3 I put about a 6" stubby on
> that turned down about 90 degrees at the end, keeping the paint clean for 6
> yrs now.
>
> Charlie Costa
>
>
>
> Sent from my Metro By T-Mobile 4G LTE Android Device
>
>
> -------- Original message --------
> From: Bruce Penttinnen via NET <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
> Date: 9/9/20 19:40 (GMT-05:00)
> To: net at newenglandtriumphs.org, triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [NET] Exhaust tip
>
> Evening Dave
>
> Congratulations on the successful install.
>
> A good 2 inches beyond the body will keep the dirt from collecting on the
> car and keep the fumes away from you. Next time you are out in traffic and
> you see  some of the cars with a very dirty rear valance, look and see
> where the tail pipe ends, probably too close to the car.
>
> Take care
>
> Bruce Penttinen  80 TR7
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: David Friedlander via NET <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
> To: TR3 Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>; New England Triumphs <
> net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
> Sent: Wed, Sep 9, 2020 5:28 pm
> Subject: [NET] Exhaust tip
>
> Hey all ~
>
> I recently i stalled a new [stock] exhaust system on my TR3 and it
> sounds fine but I note the rear tailpipe/exhaust tip only reached a
> point flush with the back of the body. Is there some rule-of-thumb
> for how much extension a rear tailpipe should have?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dave Friedlander
> _______________________________________________
> NET mailing list
> NET at newenglandtriumphs.org
> http://newenglandtriumphs.org/mailman/listinfo/net_newenglandtriumphs.org
> _______________________________________________
> NET mailing list
> NET at newenglandtriumphs.org
> http://newenglandtriumphs.org/mailman/listinfo/net_newenglandtriumphs.org
>
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From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Fri Sep 11 12:45:47 2020
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 2020 11:45:47 -0700
Subject: [TR] Exhaust tip
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwgeKXtM++qwNgEOeLAaCMrFT8yujsh=JqhSM_1GrQnyHw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwgeKXtM++qwNgEOeLAaCMrFT8yujsh=JqhSM_1GrQnyHw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bEpGaK8nepZyfU=0qwBG8wvCvoxW37PCDGEi_Fvqa=Kgw@mail.gmail.com>

Dave -

Where did you get the new tip?

Is it like the original - aluminum and enlarged on the forward end?

[image: Exhaust Tip.JPG]


Or was it aluminum and just a straight pipe?

Or was it a universal chrome piece with a set screw as sold by Moss (and
most FLAPS)?

[image: Exhaust Tip Moss.JPG]

Those are certainly wear items if you drive much and it would be good to
find a source for the correct part (last correct one I got was from TRF
years ago).

Geo



On Wed, Sep 9, 2020 at 2:29 PM David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Hey all ~
>
> I recently i stalled a new [stock] exhaust system on my TR3 and it
> sounds fine but I note the rear tailpipe/exhaust tip only reached a
> point flush with the back of the body. Is there some rule-of-thumb
> for how much extension a rear tailpipe should have?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dave Friedlander
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com
>
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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Fri Sep 11 12:51:14 2020
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 2020 13:51:14 -0500
Subject: [TR] Exhaust tip
In-Reply-To: <CANzE1bEpGaK8nepZyfU=0qwBG8wvCvoxW37PCDGEi_Fvqa=Kgw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANzE1bEpGaK8nepZyfU=0qwBG8wvCvoxW37PCDGEi_Fvqa=Kgw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <5539A9B3-39F9-466D-8609-F8151EC950FF@yahoo.com>

I got my original tip from TRF.  
Bill

#dontkillgrandma

On Sep 11, 2020, at 1:49 PM, Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com> wrote:

?
Dave -

Where did you get the new tip?

Is it like the original - aluminum and enlarged on the forward end?

<Exhaust Tip.JPG>



Or was it aluminum and just a straight pipe?

Or was it a universal chrome piece with a set screw as sold by Moss (and most FLAPS)?

<Exhaust Tip Moss.JPG>


Those are certainly wear items if you drive much and it would be good to find a source for the correct part (last correct one I got was from TRF years ago).

Geo



> On Wed, Sep 9, 2020 at 2:29 PM David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com> wrote:
> Hey all ~
> 
> I recently i stalled a new [stock] exhaust system on my TR3 and it 
> sounds fine but I note the rear tailpipe/exhaust tip only reached a 
> point flush with the back of the body. Is there some rule-of-thumb 
> for how much extension a rear tailpipe should have?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Dave Friedlander
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com
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From forzion7 at gmail.com  Fri Sep 11 14:21:38 2020
From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 2020 16:21:38 -0400
Subject: [TR] Exhaust tip
In-Reply-To: <CANzE1bEpGaK8nepZyfU=0qwBG8wvCvoxW37PCDGEi_Fvqa=Kgw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwgeKXtM++qwNgEOeLAaCMrFT8yujsh=JqhSM_1GrQnyHw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANzE1bEpGaK8nepZyfU=0qwBG8wvCvoxW37PCDGEi_Fvqa=Kgw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAJ1eQwgPAsseKZ71iZBjR5J5QA1ab2Y070Hp3jWENQah=wV4Ug@mail.gmail.com>

Geo ~

I have not yet purchased a new tip. The system I installed is a Falcon
stainless system from Moss. Ot sounds OK but the tailpipe only reaches to
the back of the body which seems a few inches too short, to me. The OD of
the Falcon system is like 1-7/8" which isn't that common so finding a tip I
can weld on may be an issue. The screw-on tips seem like something I could
leave on the road if I hit a pothole.... I also wondered what a "correct
length" wouldbe and several folks seemed to say the end of the bumper would
be best (about 3-4" longer than the current tailpipe with no extension).

Dave

On Fri, Sep 11, 2020 at 2:45 PM Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com> wrote:

> Dave -
>
> Where did you get the new tip?
>
> Is it like the original - aluminum and enlarged on the forward end?
>
> [image: Exhaust Tip.JPG]
>
>
> Or was it aluminum and just a straight pipe?
>
> Or was it a universal chrome piece with a set screw as sold by Moss (and
> most FLAPS)?
>
> [image: Exhaust Tip Moss.JPG]
>
> Those are certainly wear items if you drive much and it would be good to
> find a source for the correct part (last correct one I got was from TRF
> years ago).
>
> Geo
>
>
>
> On Wed, Sep 9, 2020 at 2:29 PM David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Hey all ~
>>
>> I recently i stalled a new [stock] exhaust system on my TR3 and it
>> sounds fine but I note the rear tailpipe/exhaust tip only reached a
>> point flush with the back of the body. Is there some rule-of-thumb
>> for how much extension a rear tailpipe should have?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Dave Friedlander
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com
>>
>
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From triumphstag at gmail.com  Fri Sep 11 14:53:39 2020
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 2020 13:53:39 -0700
Subject: [TR] can I test a distributor with the following?
In-Reply-To: <1124957677.1064277.1599828773330@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <CANLCLaGHTh_bHds67fQZz3jsH-9n6LMAib3nyQy3V08i14wA3Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANzE1bH6Cy+yS51f1Tu8KMbH_MXpmgcPct4zqbaAPsUjDkL_Mg@mail.gmail.com>
 <1124957677.1064277.1599828773330@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CANLCLaFP0hxavTRCGHRK4zsG3UC9wN=j=QvaM9tYxoLbnPQ1-w@mail.gmail.com>

Was overthinking this, A good timing gun on the car should work..

Sujit

On Fri, Sep 11, 2020 at 5:52 AM DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:

> Of course, if you have a running engine and a timing light you have all
> you need.
>
> Dave
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com>
> To: Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com>
> Cc: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thu, Sep 10, 2020 7:25 pm
> Subject: Re: [TR] can I test a distributor with the following?
>
> A friend has one of these which is the best way to assess
> centrifugal advance...
>
> [image: Sun.JPG]
>
> But I can get a pretty accurate curve by just using a timing light with an
> advance dial to get readings at various RPMs then plotting on a graph.
>
> [image: Advance Curve 2.JPG]
>
> Geo
>
> On Wed, Sep 9, 2020 at 12:00 PM Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> My son has a few ARDUINOs and Raspberry pies and a Picoscope. ( Cheap
> oscilloscope probes which works with a PC). Are there any suggestions if
> any of these can be used to test the centrifugal parts of a distributor and
> how?
> I do have a timing gun.
>
> Sujit
>
> --
> Sujit Roy
> Cupertino, California
>
>
>

-- 
Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California

https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
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From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Fri Sep 11 14:54:26 2020
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 2020 20:54:26 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Exhaust tip
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwgPAsseKZ71iZBjR5J5QA1ab2Y070Hp3jWENQah=wV4Ug@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwgeKXtM++qwNgEOeLAaCMrFT8yujsh=JqhSM_1GrQnyHw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANzE1bEpGaK8nepZyfU=0qwBG8wvCvoxW37PCDGEi_Fvqa=Kgw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAJ1eQwgPAsseKZ71iZBjR5J5QA1ab2Y070Hp3jWENQah=wV4Ug@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <397226720.1247859.1599857666302@mail.yahoo.com>

 and also not too long that you cut your shins on it every time you open the boot.
Frank

    On Friday, September 11, 2020, 01:31:36 PM PDT, David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com> wrote:  
 
 Geo ~
I have not yet purchased a new tip. The system I installed is a Falcon stainless system from Moss. Ot sounds OK but the tailpipe only reaches to the back of the body which seems a few inches too short, to me. The OD of the Falcon system is like 1-7/8" which isn't that common so finding a tip I can weld on may be an issue. The screw-on tips seem like something I could leave on the road if I hit a pothole.... I also wondered what a "correct length" wouldbe and several folks seemed to say the end of the bumper would be best (about 3-4" longer than the current tailpipe with no extension).
Dave
On Fri, Sep 11, 2020 at 2:45 PM Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com> wrote:

Dave -
Where did you get the new tip?
Is it like the original - aluminum and enlarged on the forward end?



Or was it aluminum and just a straight pipe?
Or was it a universal chrome piece with a set screw as sold by Moss (and most FLAPS)?


Those are certainly wear items if you drive much and it would be good to find a source for the correct part (last correct one I got was from TRF years ago).
Geo


On Wed, Sep 9, 2020 at 2:29 PM David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com> wrote:

Hey all ~

I recently i stalled a new [stock] exhaust system on my TR3 and it?sounds fine but I note the rear tailpipe/exhaust tip only reached a?point flush with the back of the body. Is there some rule-of-thumb?for how much extension a rear tailpipe should have?
Thanks,
Dave Friedlander** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com


** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com
  
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From triumphstag at gmail.com  Fri Sep 11 14:57:27 2020
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 2020 13:57:27 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 water pump rebuild
Message-ID: <CANLCLaEJ5hRV3pa8=f2ho5qW-ueg3=P-ox26oxEfCEk7Z6XNUQ@mail.gmail.com>

Part no.100858  is  a seal listed at the TRF for a water pump. It  is used
on the Stag's pump.
For those of you who have rebuilt your pump, did this part work OK?

There are some discussions that some are no good.

Sujit

-- 
Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California

https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
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From aljlthomson at charter.net  Fri Sep 11 15:00:42 2020
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson)
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 2020 17:00:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] Exhaust tip
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwgeKXtM++qwNgEOeLAaCMrFT8yujsh=JqhSM_1GrQnyHw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwgeKXtM++qwNgEOeLAaCMrFT8yujsh=JqhSM_1GrQnyHw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <005f01d6887e$9c9f9810$d5dec830$@charter.net>

Years ago, we had a lot of exhaust/engine smell coming into our TR6. I thought it was exhaust curling back into the car from the exhaust pipes so I installed some extensions that I bought at a NAPA store. They stuck out at least 6 inches but made no difference ? I think the engine smell was more from a disconnected crankcase breather hose or a hose on the carbon canister that was no longer connected. So, off came the ankle/calf biting extensions and into the exhaust parts box they went until today for the photo modeling session.

 

Alex Thomson 

 

From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Friedlander
Sent: Wednesday, September 09, 2020 5:29 PM
To: TR3 Triumphs; New England Triumphs
Subject: [TR] Exhaust tip

 

Hey all ~

 

I recently i stalled a new [stock] exhaust system on my TR3 and it 

sounds fine but I note the rear tailpipe/exhaust tip only reached a 

point flush with the back of the body. Is there some rule-of-thumb 

for how much extension a rear tailpipe should have?

 

Thanks,

 

Dave Friedlander

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From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Fri Sep 11 15:26:06 2020
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 2020 17:26:06 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 water pump rebuild
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaEJ5hRV3pa8=f2ho5qW-ueg3=P-ox26oxEfCEk7Z6XNUQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaEJ5hRV3pa8=f2ho5qW-ueg3=P-ox26oxEfCEk7Z6XNUQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <0LzuTN-1kbnHY363v-0151dE@mrelay.perfora.net>

I had the Flying Dutchman rebuild two pumps with their ceramic seals? very reasonably priced.

http://water-pump-rebuilders.com/triumph-water-pumps.html



Bob Danielson
TR6 Interior Panels, Boot Covers and Fender Blankets
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/PanelBootSales1.htm

From: Sujit Roy
Sent: Friday, September 11, 2020 4:59 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] TR6 water pump rebuild

Part no.100858? is? a seal listed at the TRF for a water?pump.?It? is used on the Stag's pump.
For those of you who have rebuilt your pump, did this part work OK?

There are some discussions that some are no good.

Sujit

--?
Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California

https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/

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From dave at ranteer.com  Fri Sep 11 15:39:12 2020
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Fri, 11 Sep 2020 16:39:12 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 water pump rebuild
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaEJ5hRV3pa8=f2ho5qW-ueg3=P-ox26oxEfCEk7Z6XNUQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaEJ5hRV3pa8=f2ho5qW-ueg3=P-ox26oxEfCEk7Z6XNUQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <002d01d68883$fd5e5740$f81b05c0$@ranteer.com>

I have several friends with Stags.  They have ALL replaced the stock Stag water pump with the external electric one that sits low.

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Sujit Roy
Sent: Friday, September 11, 2020 3:57 PM
To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR6 water pump rebuild

 

Part no.100858  is  a seal listed at the TRF for a water pump. It  is used on the Stag's pump.

For those of you who have rebuilt your pump, did this part work OK?

 

There are some discussions that some are no good.

 

Sujit

 

-- 

Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California


https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/

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From trguy75 at gmail.com  Sat Sep 12 05:45:33 2020
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen)
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 2020 07:45:33 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 Delco Alternator Mod
In-Reply-To: <20200910215724.D5853A0C96@autox.team.net>
References: <20200910215724.D5853A0C96@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <09AEC78C-FF74-4081-8284-4DD8E1931790@gmail.com>

Awesome.  Thanks Jay
Jim

> On Sep 10, 2020, at 5:57 PM, Jay Holekamp <jholekamp at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> 
> https://web.archive.org/web/20031002...nversions.html
> 
> https://web.archive.org/web/20031013...r/gm-tr4a.html
>  
> brgds, Jay
>  
>  
> From: triumphs-request at autox.team.net
> Sent: Thursday, September 10, 2020 4:43 PM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Triumphs Digest, Vol 13, Issue 241
>  
> Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to
>                 triumphs at autox.team.net
>  
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>                 http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>                 triumphs-request at autox.team.net
>  
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>                 triumphs-owner at autox.team.net
>  
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..."
>  
>  
> Today's Topics:
>  
>    1. TR4 DELCO ALTERNATOR MOD (staffel)
>  
>  
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>  
> Message: 1
> Date: Thu, 10 Sep 2020 17:31:33 -0400
> From: staffel <staffel at comcast.net>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net, trguy75 at gmail.com
> Cc: staffel at comcast.net
> Subject: [TR] TR4 DELCO ALTERNATOR MOD
> Message-ID: <mailman.137.1599773524.3214.triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>  
>  
> Hi again Jim. Years ago modified my TR4 to 60 amp (?) Standard Delco alternator. I MODIFIED THE ORIGINAL VOLTAGE REGULATOR BOX, Keeping the Box in place so it looks original.Can send you pics of the regulator changed inside. I did? Document? and shared with this list at the time. And a couple members made some comments. I also? had a whole write up & pics on the web; but Comcast/ home.net didn't save my website when Comcast evolved ( no notifications) & all my jpegs were on floppy disks.?Dating the Mod. Had to be @ 1998-2000.Now the GM alternator comes with a? pulley that takes a thin belt. So I used & modified my original TR4 pulley to the shaft of the Delco alternator.Then I measured to find a belt that would work with the Alternator mounting brackets.I first found a farm tractor belt & had mm markings, but replaced with THIS NAPA BELT?25-24379.I need to do some cleanup & repainting but I used a threaded rod? with washers/nuts for the alternator pivot into the original TR block bra
> cket on the bottom. For the top bracket I can't remember if it was the original TR generator bracket or one I sourced from an old GM Mercruiser 260 engine. But that's the easy part. The key was the pulley &? belt mod as I wanted to keep the TR4 original size? crank pulley & water pump pulleySherman?If you want more pics, you have my cell 410-302-3930 & email.Sherman?Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S10, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable smartphone
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>  
> ------------------------------
>  
> Subject: Digest Footer
>  
> _______________________________________________
>  
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> Triumphs at autox.team.net
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> End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 13, Issue 241
> *****************************************
>  
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
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From trguy75 at gmail.com  Sat Sep 12 05:47:50 2020
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen)
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 2020 07:47:50 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 DELCO ALTERNATOR MOD
In-Reply-To: <5f5a9b52.1c69fb81.bc926.694cSMTPIN_ADDED_MISSING@mx.google.com>
References: <5f5a9b52.1c69fb81.bc926.694cSMTPIN_ADDED_MISSING@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <1B4A60AA-5D84-4CFA-BD33-47DA74818A9B@gmail.com>

Awesome. Thanks for sharing. Jim

> On Sep 10, 2020, at 5:32 PM, staffel <staffel at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Hi again Jim. Years ago modified my TR4 to 60 amp (?) Standard Delco alternator. I MODIFIED THE ORIGINAL VOLTAGE REGULATOR BOX, Keeping the Box in place so it looks original.Can send you pics of the regulator changed inside. I did  Document  and shared with this list at the time. And a couple members made some comments. I also  had a whole write up & pics on the web; but Comcast/ home.net didn't save my website when Comcast evolved ( no notifications) & all my jpegs were on floppy disks. 
> Dating the Mod. Had to be @ 1998-2000.
> 
> Now the GM alternator comes with a  pulley that takes a thin belt. So I used & modified my original TR4 pulley to the shaft of the Delco alternator.
> Then I measured to find a belt that would work with the Alternator mounting brackets.
> I first found a farm tractor belt & had mm markings, but replaced with THIS NAPA BELT 25-24379.
> 
> I need to do some cleanup & repainting but I used a threaded rod  with washers/nuts for the alternator pivot into the original TR block bracket on the bottom. For the top bracket I can't remember if it was the original TR generator bracket or one I sourced from an old GM Mercruiser 260 engine. But that's the easy part. The key was the pulley &  belt mod as I wanted to keep the TR4 original size  crank pulley & water pump pulley
> Sherman 
> If you want more pics, you have my cell 410-302-3930 & email.
> Sherman 
> 
> Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S10, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable smartphone
> 
> <20200910_163843.jpg>
> <20200910_163615.jpg>
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From fmags at cox.net  Sat Sep 12 13:52:32 2020
From: fmags at cox.net (Frank Magnusson)
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 2020 14:52:32 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 water pump rebuild
Message-ID: <F2B6DA0F-BE76-4535-A7EF-0D8D7252EF89@cox.net>

Sujit, 

I used a seal from Rimmers on my Stag water pump; no experience with the TR6 seal from TRF.  Be advised though that you may have to machine the brass cage that the seal fits into to accept the seal.  I rebuilt mine about 10 years ago, so maybe the seals are better today, but I had to have the brass cage that the seal fits into machined a few thousanths to accept the seal.  I had bought a rebuilt pump at the same time and it had just been forced together with no quality control check and would barely turn due to the same issue; seal wouldnt fit into the cage, so they just forced it together with a press. Ruined my timing chain within5,000 miles.  Fortunately I caught it, replaced that chain and I rebuilt my original pump instead.  Been fine ever since and no leaks.

Frank



From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sat Sep 12 14:36:55 2020
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 2020 13:36:55 -0700
Subject: [TR] Exhaust tip
In-Reply-To: <CANzE1bEpGaK8nepZyfU=0qwBG8wvCvoxW37PCDGEi_Fvqa=Kgw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwgeKXtM++qwNgEOeLAaCMrFT8yujsh=JqhSM_1GrQnyHw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANzE1bEpGaK8nepZyfU=0qwBG8wvCvoxW37PCDGEi_Fvqa=Kgw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bFECpnLMmHGG=D6NnHp_m_xrf0x=chsWg-4+d6ado6xVg@mail.gmail.com>

So far as I can tell, the original style is not available - odd because it
is pretty simple.  Even Rimmers is selling that chrome steel generic with a
set-screw.

So I ordered this from Amazon - 2" OD x 1 7/8" ID:

https://www.amazon.com/HPS-AST-3F-200-Seamless-Aluminum-Thickness/dp/B014GXNH2O/ref=sr_1_9?dchild=1&keywords=aluminum+tubing+2%22&qid=1599857759&sr=8-9

[image: image.png]
They had a 1' length but that wouldn't have been enough for more than one.
The 3' should make about 4.

Geo

On Fri, Sep 11, 2020 at 11:45 AM Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com> wrote:

> Dave -
>
> Where did you get the new tip?
>
> Is it like the original - aluminum and enlarged on the forward end?
>
> [image: Exhaust Tip.JPG]
>
>
> Or was it aluminum and just a straight pipe?
>
> Or was it a universal chrome piece with a set screw as sold by Moss (and
> most FLAPS)?
>
> [image: Exhaust Tip Moss.JPG]
>
> Those are certainly wear items if you drive much and it would be good to
> find a source for the correct part (last correct one I got was from TRF
> years ago).
>
> Geo
>
>
>
> On Wed, Sep 9, 2020 at 2:29 PM David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Hey all ~
>>
>> I recently i stalled a new [stock] exhaust system on my TR3 and it
>> sounds fine but I note the rear tailpipe/exhaust tip only reached a
>> point flush with the back of the body. Is there some rule-of-thumb
>> for how much extension a rear tailpipe should have?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Dave Friedlander
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com
>>
>
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From trguy75 at gmail.com  Sat Sep 12 17:11:46 2020
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen)
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 2020 19:11:46 -0400
Subject: [TR] Seat belt rebuilder
Message-ID: <335DBEEA-BF7A-4A6A-A17D-F3C21B6A13C7@gmail.com>

I have original Stanpart Britax seat belts in my 67 TR4Aand want to keep them with the car.  Any recommendations on seat belt rebuilder who can put new straps on the pieces?  The original black belts are rough but original buckles priceless in my opinion.  
Thanks,
Jim Henningsen
Ocala FL 

From john at linneyweb.com  Sat Sep 12 19:17:46 2020
From: john at linneyweb.com (John Linney)
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 2020 18:17:46 -0700
Subject: [TR] Seat belt rebuilder
In-Reply-To: <335DBEEA-BF7A-4A6A-A17D-F3C21B6A13C7@gmail.com>
References: <335DBEEA-BF7A-4A6A-A17D-F3C21B6A13C7@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <89FD6354-BE4C-4B3D-AE98-5A99F2D5950C@linneyweb.com>

My advice is don?t! I found out the hard way that the fittings are subject to fatigue cracks. 

> On Sep 12, 2020, at 4:11 PM, Jim Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> I have original Stanpart Britax seat belts in my 67 TR4Aand want to keep them with the car.  Any recommendations on seat belt rebuilder who can put new straps on the pieces?  The original black belts are rough but original buckles priceless in my opinion.  
> Thanks,
> Jim Henningsen
> Ocala FL 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john at linneyweb.com


From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sat Sep 12 20:36:47 2020
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sat, 12 Sep 2020 19:36:47 -0700
Subject: [TR] Seat belt rebuilder
In-Reply-To: <335DBEEA-BF7A-4A6A-A17D-F3C21B6A13C7@gmail.com>
References: <335DBEEA-BF7A-4A6A-A17D-F3C21B6A13C7@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bG0SWW6jrB6t6v=WD2Cv0_Oj5E6ADNtYkTyNeV5C+BJ2w@mail.gmail.com>

Jim -

I have not used them but have looked over their website and considered the
possibilities.  They seem to do it all, including restoration:

https://www.ssnake-oyl.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=Ssnake-Oyl&Category_Code=RS

Geo

On Sat, Sep 12, 2020 at 4:12 PM Jim Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com> wrote:

> I have original Stanpart Britax seat belts in my 67 TR4Aand want to keep
> them with the car.  Any recommendations on seat belt rebuilder who can put
> new straps on the pieces?  The original black belts are rough but original
> buckles priceless in my opinion.
> Thanks,
> Jim Henningsen
> Ocala FL
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com
>
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From forzion7 at gmail.com  Sun Sep 13 12:21:23 2020
From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2020 14:21:23 -0400
Subject: [TR] Small coolant leak
Message-ID: <CAJ1eQwi5=Pg=BtjZsgvqHZ0=hWAF7O=p3AEyPWX_Fo6NagTi7g@mail.gmail.com>

I have noticed a small coolant leak from my TR3 and have traced it to the
handle assembly of the water drain tap on the side of the block. Anyone
else had this issue? It's a new tap and don't know what the fix might be.
It's not leaking from where the tap threads into the block... Thanks in
advance for any BTDT advice...

Dave
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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Sun Sep 13 12:48:15 2020
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2020 13:48:15 -0500
Subject: [TR] Small coolant leak
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwi5=Pg=BtjZsgvqHZ0=hWAF7O=p3AEyPWX_Fo6NagTi7g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwi5=Pg=BtjZsgvqHZ0=hWAF7O=p3AEyPWX_Fo6NagTi7g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C8EA0FA8-99A6-46DA-BC77-D87017B5C2DB@yahoo.com>

Chronic problem there, I just finished fooling with mine a few weeks back.  Cleaned it real good then spent a few minutes just working it back and forth to try and seat the valve. So far so good, but I haven?t been able to take a long drive yet.   I have also been able to stop the leak with a light tap on the top of the valve spindle. 

Seriously considering just plugging the hole if this doesn?t hold. 

Bill
TS30800L

#dontkillgrandma

On Sep 13, 2020, at 1:38 PM, David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com> wrote:

?
I have noticed a small coolant leak from my TR3 and have traced it to the handle assembly of the water drain tap on the side of the block. Anyone else had this issue? It's a new tap and don't know what the fix might be. It's not leaking from where the tap threads into the block... Thanks in advance for any BTDT advice...

Dave
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com


From forzion7 at gmail.com  Sun Sep 13 12:51:51 2020
From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2020 14:51:51 -0400
Subject: [TR] [NET] Small coolant leak
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR13MB2782DDE262F5CF3D850F18E29E220@MN2PR13MB2782.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwi5=Pg=BtjZsgvqHZ0=hWAF7O=p3AEyPWX_Fo6NagTi7g@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR13MB2782DDE262F5CF3D850F18E29E220@MN2PR13MB2782.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAJ1eQwi565hNpcYx_Hgv0gM+_VEj5KL96-B0czxWc75c3St-ng@mail.gmail.com>

Hey Tom ~ Thanks! I needed the laugh. Maybe I should 'avoid the rush' and
just install a pipe plug now... ?

Dave

On Sun, Sep 13, 2020, 2:42 PM Tom Mulligan <nute_shop at hotmail.com> wrote:

> Oh, And if  you get the leak to stop it will eventually clog up solid with
> crud and never leak (or drain) again.
> Tom
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* NET <net-bounces at newenglandtriumphs.org> on behalf of David
> Friedlander via NET <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
> *Sent:* Sunday, September 13, 2020 2:21 PM
> *To:* TR3 Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>; New England Triumphs <
> net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
> *Subject:* [NET] Small coolant leak
>
> I have noticed a small coolant leak from my TR3 and have traced it to the
> handle assembly of the water drain tap on the side of the block. Anyone
> else had this issue? It's a new tap and don't know what the fix might be.
> It's not leaking from where the tap threads into the block... Thanks in
> advance for any BTDT advice...
>
> Dave
>
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From john at linneyweb.com  Sun Sep 13 13:14:29 2020
From: john at linneyweb.com (John Linney)
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2020 12:14:29 -0700
Subject: [TR] Small coolant leak
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwi5=Pg=BtjZsgvqHZ0=hWAF7O=p3AEyPWX_Fo6NagTi7g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwi5=Pg=BtjZsgvqHZ0=hWAF7O=p3AEyPWX_Fo6NagTi7g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1E6C2E58-98A1-4E85-9CA6-328AF6A8FC1F@linneyweb.com>

I went through 3 valves on my TR4. The final one got a seal using plumber?s pipe thread sealant.

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 13, 2020, at 11:38 AM, David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> I have noticed a small coolant leak from my TR3 and have traced it to the handle assembly of the water drain tap on the side of the block. Anyone else had this issue? It's a new tap and don't know what the fix might be. It's not leaking from where the tap threads into the block... Thanks in advance for any BTDT advice...
> 
> Dave
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john at linneyweb.com


From forzion7 at gmail.com  Sun Sep 13 13:21:52 2020
From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2020 15:21:52 -0400
Subject: [TR] Small coolant leak
In-Reply-To: <1E6C2E58-98A1-4E85-9CA6-328AF6A8FC1F@linneyweb.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwi5=Pg=BtjZsgvqHZ0=hWAF7O=p3AEyPWX_Fo6NagTi7g@mail.gmail.com>
 <1E6C2E58-98A1-4E85-9CA6-328AF6A8FC1F@linneyweb.com>
Message-ID: <CAJ1eQwhU9R092qWtxF7dw0TmCweUBpW_PfNBMvEa4uotia4yqQ@mail.gmail.com>

But, John, it's not the threaded portion that leaks.... No threads on stem
of the petcock. Seems to me, like Tom said, these either stop leaking
because they get full of crud or people just plug the hole. As it is, the
valve is located just above the starter so that's where it drains! I'm
guessing that if anyone wanted to drain their engine block, they'd just use
the radiator petcock instead.

Dave

On Sun, Sep 13, 2020, 3:14 PM John Linney <john at linneyweb.com> wrote:

> I went through 3 valves on my TR4. The final one got a seal using
> plumber?s pipe thread sealant.
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> > On Sep 13, 2020, at 11:38 AM, David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > ?
> > I have noticed a small coolant leak from my TR3 and have traced it to
> the handle assembly of the water drain tap on the side of the block. Anyone
> else had this issue? It's a new tap and don't know what the fix might be.
> It's not leaking from where the tap threads into the block... Thanks in
> advance for any BTDT advice...
> >
> > Dave
> > ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john at linneyweb.com
>
>
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From john at linneyweb.com  Sun Sep 13 13:30:13 2020
From: john at linneyweb.com (John Linney)
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2020 12:30:13 -0700
Subject: [TR] Small coolant leak
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwhU9R092qWtxF7dw0TmCweUBpW_PfNBMvEa4uotia4yqQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwhU9R092qWtxF7dw0TmCweUBpW_PfNBMvEa4uotia4yqQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DE283A97-3139-4B2E-AF14-B22ED194CCE0@linneyweb.com>

Correct. I put the pipe thread sealant in the bore of the valve spigot. The threads don?t need sealant.

> On Sep 13, 2020, at 12:22 PM, David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> But, John, it's not the threaded portion that leaks.... No threads on stem of the petcock. Seems to me, like Tom said, these either stop leaking because they get full of crud or people just plug the hole. As it is, the valve is located just above the starter so that's where it drains! I'm guessing that if anyone wanted to drain their engine block, they'd just use the radiator petcock instead.
> 
> Dave
> 
>> On Sun, Sep 13, 2020, 3:14 PM John Linney <john at linneyweb.com> wrote:
>> I went through 3 valves on my TR4. The final one got a seal using plumber?s pipe thread sealant.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> 
>> > On Sep 13, 2020, at 11:38 AM, David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com> wrote:
>> > 
>> > ?
>> > I have noticed a small coolant leak from my TR3 and have traced it to the handle assembly of the water drain tap on the side of the block. Anyone else had this issue? It's a new tap and don't know what the fix might be. It's not leaking from where the tap threads into the block... Thanks in advance for any BTDT advice...
>> > 
>> > Dave
>> > ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> > 
>> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>> > 
>> > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john at linneyweb.com
>> 
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From deruiterville at hotmail.com  Sun Sep 13 13:32:26 2020
From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter)
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2020 19:32:26 +0000
Subject: [TR] Small coolant leak
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwi5=Pg=BtjZsgvqHZ0=hWAF7O=p3AEyPWX_Fo6NagTi7g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwi5=Pg=BtjZsgvqHZ0=hWAF7O=p3AEyPWX_Fo6NagTi7g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DM6PR19MB3130813C0C8ECFEEEE2E46B5B9220@DM6PR19MB3130.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>

Dave-

I have to say your note makes me realize how much I miss Randall Young and his always present knowledge of items like this.  Not positive, but I think I recall Randall talking about these taps, and the potential for poorer quality in the replacements.  I believe the fix that can help is to lap in the valve with some lapping compound, similar to a valve job.  Best to take if off the block if you want to try, but it isn't too bad to disassemble and with a little work you may be able to get a better seal.

Randy

________________________________
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 13, 2020 1:21 PM
To: TR3 Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>; New England Triumphs <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
Subject: [TR] Small coolant leak

I have noticed a small coolant leak from my TR3 and have traced it to the handle assembly of the water drain tap on the side of the block. Anyone else had this issue? It's a new tap and don't know what the fix might be. It's not leaking from where the tap threads into the block... Thanks in advance for any BTDT advice...

Dave
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From dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Sep 13 14:08:57 2020
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2020 20:08:57 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Small coolant leak
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwi5=Pg=BtjZsgvqHZ0=hWAF7O=p3AEyPWX_Fo6NagTi7g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwi5=Pg=BtjZsgvqHZ0=hWAF7O=p3AEyPWX_Fo6NagTi7g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <911656715.1684027.1600027737829@mail.yahoo.com>

 Those off-shore valves are notorious for leaking.? That is a tapered plug in a tapered body.? If the tapers don't match precisely they will not seal up.
I would up soldering mine up.? It is now a screw-in plug.
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com>
To: TR3 Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>; New England Triumphs <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
Sent: Sun, Sep 13, 2020 1:21 pm
Subject: [TR] Small coolant leak

I have noticed a small coolant leak from my TR3 and have traced it to the handle assembly of the water drain tap on the side of the block. Anyone else had this issue? It's a new tap and don't know what the fix might be. It's not leaking from where the tap threads into the block... Thanks in advance for any BTDT advice...
Dave
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From rrochlin at comcast.net  Sun Sep 13 14:14:28 2020
From: rrochlin at comcast.net (Rochlin Robert)
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2020 16:14:28 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 water pump rebuild
In-Reply-To: <002d01d68883$fd5e5740$f81b05c0$@ranteer.com>
References: <CANLCLaEJ5hRV3pa8=f2ho5qW-ueg3=P-ox26oxEfCEk7Z6XNUQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <002d01d68883$fd5e5740$f81b05c0$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <B6760D9E-63D1-403A-9291-B6E5DAEEB369@comcast.net>

Early this summer I had Flying Dutchman rebuild my TR6 water pump, to get the 6 vane upgrade. I was really please with the quality of the work and the turnaround time.  The one thing that struck me was the weight of the water pump. I can?t quite understand why the pump and the housing were designed weighing so much. I did notice that  Racetorations, in the UK, had an alloy 6 blade pump for about $300.00. http://www.racetorations.co.uk/triumph-c56/tr5-tr250-c7/tr5-engine-c17/racetorations-lightweight-water-pump-and-pulley-billet-6-cylinder-p795  That baby lightens the car and your wallet at the same time.
	Best,
	Bob
	'72 TR6

> On Sep 11, 2020, at 5:39 PM, dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:
> 
> I have several friends with Stags.  They have ALL replaced the stock Stag water pump with the external electric one that sits low.
>  
> From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Sujit Roy
> Sent: Friday, September 11, 2020 3:57 PM
> To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [TR] TR6 water pump rebuild
>  
> Part no.100858  is  a seal listed at the TRF for a water pump. It  is used on the Stag's pump.
> For those of you who have rebuilt your pump, did this part work OK?
>  
> There are some discussions that some are no good.
>  
> Sujit
>  
> -- 
> Sujit Roy
> Cupertino, California
> 
> https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ <https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/>** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rrochlin at comcast.net

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From Randall.Reihing at utoledo.edu  Sun Sep 13 14:14:41 2020
From: Randall.Reihing at utoledo.edu (Reihing, Randall S.)
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2020 20:14:41 +0000
Subject: [TR] Small coolant leak
In-Reply-To: <DM6PR19MB3130813C0C8ECFEEEE2E46B5B9220@DM6PR19MB3130.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwi5=Pg=BtjZsgvqHZ0=hWAF7O=p3AEyPWX_Fo6NagTi7g@mail.gmail.com>,
 <DM6PR19MB3130813C0C8ECFEEEE2E46B5B9220@DM6PR19MB3130.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <BL0PR01MB47393AC98ADD7DDECECFBC51EC220@BL0PR01MB4739.prod.exchangelabs.com>

Dave,

If what you have is a valve, there is a remote chance it's stem has a graphite impregnated packing under a nut that can be better sealed by tightening the nut on the stem.

Randall Reihing
________________________________
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Randy and Valerie DeRuiter <deruiterville at hotmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 13, 2020 3:32 PM
To: David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com>; TR3 Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>; New England Triumphs <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: [TR] Small coolant leak

Dave-

I have to say your note makes me realize how much I miss Randall Young and his always present knowledge of items like this.  Not positive, but I think I recall Randall talking about these taps, and the potential for poorer quality in the replacements.  I believe the fix that can help is to lap in the valve with some lapping compound, similar to a valve job.  Best to take if off the block if you want to try, but it isn't too bad to disassemble and with a little work you may be able to get a better seal.

Randy

________________________________
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 13, 2020 1:21 PM
To: TR3 Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>; New England Triumphs <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
Subject: [TR] Small coolant leak

I have noticed a small coolant leak from my TR3 and have traced it to the handle assembly of the water drain tap on the side of the block. Anyone else had this issue? It's a new tap and don't know what the fix might be. It's not leaking from where the tap threads into the block... Thanks in advance for any BTDT advice...

Dave
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From dave at ranteer.com  Sun Sep 13 14:22:53 2020
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2020 15:22:53 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 water pump rebuild
In-Reply-To: <B6760D9E-63D1-403A-9291-B6E5DAEEB369@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <mailman.6.1600028578.3211.triumphs@autox.team.net>

I did the racestorations aluminum water pump,? and aluminum housing.? ?It improved the temperature noticeably.? In Texas that's important
-------- Original message --------From: Rochlin Robert <rrochlin at comcast.net> Date: 9/13/20  3:14 PM  (GMT-06:00) To: dave <dave at ranteer.com> Cc: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 water pump rebuild Early this summer I had Flying Dutchman rebuild my TR6 water pump, to get the 6 vane upgrade. I was really please with the quality of the work and the turnaround time. ?The one thing that struck me was the weight of the water pump. I can?t quite understand why the pump and the housing were designed weighing so much. I did notice that ?Racetorations, in the UK, had an alloy 6 blade pump for about $300.00. http://www.racetorations.co.uk/triumph-c56/tr5-tr250-c7/tr5-engine-c17/racetorations-lightweight-water-pump-and-pulley-billet-6-cylinder-p795 ?That baby lightens the car and your wallet at the same time.	Best,	Bob	'72 TR6On Sep 11, 2020, at 5:39 PM, dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:I have several friends with Stags.? They have ALL replaced the stock Stag water pump with the external electric one that sits low.?From:?Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net>?On Behalf Of?Sujit RoySent:?Friday, September 11, 2020 3:57 PMTo:?Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>Subject:?[TR] TR6 water pump rebuild?Part no.100858? is? a seal listed at the TRF for a water?pump.?It? is used on the Stag's pump.For those of you who have rebuilt your pump, did this part work OK??There are some discussions that some are no good.?Sujit?--?Sujit RoyCupertino, Californiahttps://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/** triumphs at autox.team.net **Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.htmlArchive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs ?http://www.team.net/archiveUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rrochlin at comcast.net
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From kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Sun Sep 13 15:19:30 2020
From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer)
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2020 14:19:30 -0700
Subject: [TR] Small coolant leak
In-Reply-To: <DE283A97-3139-4B2E-AF14-B22ED194CCE0@linneyweb.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwhU9R092qWtxF7dw0TmCweUBpW_PfNBMvEa4uotia4yqQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <DE283A97-3139-4B2E-AF14-B22ED194CCE0@linneyweb.com>
Message-ID: <004501d68a13$9267dba0$b73792e0$@net>

Interesting, John. I would have said the opposite. Pipe threads generally need sealant, I thought. I use TPFE pipe dope and stay away from the tape where  passages may get fouled by little strings that tear off (thank you Randall, may you rest in peace). I have had issues with new petcocks leaking which I solved by taking them apart, cleaning the bore really well and then polishing the cone. I seem to remember I put it in the drill press and used 2000 grit wet sand paper to achieve a very smooth surface. So far, so good.

 

Bob

 

From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Linney
Sent: Sunday, September 13, 2020 12:30 PM
To: David Friedlander
Cc: TR3 Triumphs; New England Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] Small coolant leak

 

Correct. I put the pipe thread sealant in the bore of the valve spigot. The threads don?t need sealant.





On Sep 13, 2020, at 12:22 PM, David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com> wrote:

?

But, John, it's not the threaded portion that leaks.... No threads on stem of the petcock. Seems to me, like Tom said, these either stop leaking because they get full of crud or people just plug the hole. As it is, the valve is located just above the starter so that's where it drains! I'm guessing that if anyone wanted to drain their engine block, they'd just use the radiator petcock instead.

 

Dave

 

On Sun, Sep 13, 2020, 3:14 PM John Linney <john at linneyweb.com> wrote:

I went through 3 valves on my TR4. The final one got a seal using plumber?s pipe thread sealant.

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 13, 2020, at 11:38 AM, David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> I have noticed a small coolant leak from my TR3 and have traced it to the handle assembly of the water drain tap on the side of the block. Anyone else had this issue? It's a new tap and don't know what the fix might be. It's not leaking from where the tap threads into the block... Thanks in advance for any BTDT advice...
> 
> Dave
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john at linneyweb.com

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From kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Sun Sep 13 15:23:54 2020
From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer)
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2020 14:23:54 -0700
Subject: [TR] Small coolant leak
References: <CAJ1eQwhU9R092qWtxF7dw0TmCweUBpW_PfNBMvEa4uotia4yqQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <DE283A97-3139-4B2E-AF14-B22ED194CCE0@linneyweb.com> 
Message-ID: <007801d68a14$2f2b6380$8d822a80$@net>

 

 

From: Kinderlehrer [mailto:kinderlehrer at comcast.net] 
Sent: Sunday, September 13, 2020 2:20 PM
To: 'John Linney'; 'David Friedlander'
Cc: 'TR3 Triumphs'; 'New England Triumphs'
Subject: RE: [TR] Small coolant leak

 

Interesting, John. I would have said the opposite. Pipe threads generally need sealant, I thought. I use TPFE pipe dope and stay away from the tape where  passages may get fouled by little strings that tear off (thank you Randall, may you rest in peace). I have had issues with new petcocks leaking which I solved by taking them apart, cleaning the bore really well and then polishing the cone. I seem to remember I put it in the drill press and used 2000 grit wet sand paper to achieve a very smooth surface. So far, so good.

 

Bob

 

From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Linney
Sent: Sunday, September 13, 2020 12:30 PM
To: David Friedlander
Cc: TR3 Triumphs; New England Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] Small coolant leak

 

Correct. I put the pipe thread sealant in the bore of the valve spigot. The threads don?t need sealant.

 

On Sep 13, 2020, at 12:22 PM, David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com> wrote:

?

But, John, it's not the threaded portion that leaks.... No threads on stem of the petcock. Seems to me, like Tom said, these either stop leaking because they get full of crud or people just plug the hole. As it is, the valve is located just above the starter so that's where it drains! I'm guessing that if anyone wanted to drain their engine block, they'd just use the radiator petcock instead.

 

Dave

 

On Sun, Sep 13, 2020, 3:14 PM John Linney <john at linneyweb.com> wrote:

I went through 3 valves on my TR4. The final one got a seal using plumber?s pipe thread sealant.

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 13, 2020, at 11:38 AM, David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> I have noticed a small coolant leak from my TR3 and have traced it to the handle assembly of the water drain tap on the side of the block. Anyone else had this issue? It's a new tap and don't know what the fix might be. It's not leaking from where the tap threads into the block... Thanks in advance for any BTDT advice...
> 
> Dave
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john at linneyweb.com

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From forzion7 at gmail.com  Sun Sep 13 16:59:47 2020
From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2020 18:59:47 -0400
Subject: [TR] Small coolant leak
In-Reply-To: <9681DCE9-FF4A-4F00-82A6-C4D65291E9E2@chinaautogroup.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwi5=Pg=BtjZsgvqHZ0=hWAF7O=p3AEyPWX_Fo6NagTi7g@mail.gmail.com>
 <DM6PR19MB3130813C0C8ECFEEEE2E46B5B9220@DM6PR19MB3130.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
 <9681DCE9-FF4A-4F00-82A6-C4D65291E9E2@chinaautogroup.com>
Message-ID: <CAJ1eQwjVwO_XN-H=huaxgBrLkK9uX6BqHXg=YyS7GkhmSn=8pQ@mail.gmail.com>

Steve ~

I'd prefer to think you're kidding.  ?

The design may not be bad but perhaps the tolerances on the drawings aren't
sufficiently tight... Charge twice the price, have them made in the US or
Switzerland and be done with it!

Dave

On Sun, Sep 13, 2020, 4:08 PM Steve Kirby <sackirby at chinaautogroup.com>
wrote:

> The design is so bad that Moss is now going to only sell a fake that is
> not drilled out
>
> Steve Kirby
>
> On Sep 13, 2020, at 12:50 PM, Randy and Valerie DeRuiter <
> deruiterville at hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> Dave-
>
> I have to say your note makes me realize how much I miss Randall Young and
> his always present knowledge of items like this.  Not positive, but I think
> I recall Randall talking about these taps, and the potential for poorer
> quality in the replacements.  I believe the fix that can help is to lap in
> the valve with some lapping compound, similar to a valve job.  Best to take
> if off the block if you want to try, but it isn't too bad to disassemble
> and with a little work you may be able to get a better seal.
>
> Randy
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of David
> Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com>
> *Sent:* Sunday, September 13, 2020 1:21 PM
> *To:* TR3 Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>; New England Triumphs <
> net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
> *Subject:* [TR] Small coolant leak
>
> I have noticed a small coolant leak from my TR3 and have traced it to the
> handle assembly of the water drain tap on the side of the block. Anyone
> else had this issue? It's a new tap and don't know what the fix might be.
> It's not leaking from where the tap threads into the block... Thanks in
> advance for any BTDT advice...
>
> Dave
>
>
>
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/sackirby at pacbell.net
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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From joemato at sbcglobal.net  Mon Sep 14 04:37:47 2020
From: joemato at sbcglobal.net (JOSEPH MATO)
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2020 10:37:47 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR 6 seat rails
References: <647833797.1960838.1600079867951.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <647833797.1960838.1600079867951@mail.yahoo.com>

I couldn't find them on my TR6. The seat pivots on the back attach points. No rails or leg length adjustment. Is this normal. They were in the book? Wonder if this is the same genius who designed the oil filter placement.Joe Mato
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From jmitch at snet.net  Mon Sep 14 05:23:25 2020
From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell)
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2020 07:23:25 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR 6 seat rails
In-Reply-To: <647833797.1960838.1600079867951@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <647833797.1960838.1600079867951.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <647833797.1960838.1600079867951@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <c78d65d5-e0a3-b7e0-922a-90a771a93446@snet.net>

My TR6 seats slide forward and aft and pivots.? Maybe your rails are are 
stuck.

On 9/14/2020 6:37 AM, JOSEPH MATO wrote:
> I couldn't find them on my TR6. The seat pivots on the back attach 
> points. No rails or leg length adjustment. Is this normal. They were 
> in the book? Wonder if this is the same genius who designed the oil 
> filter placement.
> Joe Mato
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jmitch at snet.net
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From dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Sep 14 05:48:26 2020
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2020 11:48:26 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR 6 seat rails
In-Reply-To: <647833797.1960838.1600079867951@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <647833797.1960838.1600079867951.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <647833797.1960838.1600079867951@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <651687653.1843942.1600084106612@mail.yahoo.com>

 OK.? I'm confused.? The TR6 seats attach to the rails at the front and hinge forward.? The rails are two piece affairs one of which is attached to the floor pan by four bolts (1/4-28) and the other slides forward and aft on the first part.? 

How are yours attached?? Can you post pictures?
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: JOSEPH MATO <joemato at sbcglobal.net>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Sep 14, 2020 5:37 am
Subject: [TR] TR 6 seat rails

I couldn't find them on my TR6. The seat pivots on the back attach points. No rails or leg length adjustment. Is this normal. They were in the book? Wonder if this is the same genius who designed the oil filter placement.Joe Mato** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com
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From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Mon Sep 14 06:33:57 2020
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (EDWARD WOODS)
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2020 08:33:57 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR 6 seat rails
In-Reply-To: <c78d65d5-e0a3-b7e0-922a-90a771a93446@snet.net>
References: <647833797.1960838.1600079867951.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <647833797.1960838.1600079867951@mail.yahoo.com>
 <c78d65d5-e0a3-b7e0-922a-90a771a93446@snet.net>
Message-ID: <1173512360.80503.1600086838063@connect.xfinity.com>

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From forzion7 at gmail.com  Mon Sep 14 06:39:14 2020
From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2020 08:39:14 -0400
Subject: [TR] [NET] Small coolant leak
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR13MB2782B84B88CBBF621B031C9B9E230@MN2PR13MB2782.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwi5=Pg=BtjZsgvqHZ0=hWAF7O=p3AEyPWX_Fo6NagTi7g@mail.gmail.com>
 <MN2PR13MB2782DDE262F5CF3D850F18E29E220@MN2PR13MB2782.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAJ1eQwi565hNpcYx_Hgv0gM+_VEj5KL96-B0czxWc75c3St-ng@mail.gmail.com>
 <43B806DF-E206-41D1-81E4-3B9C30D9FA5D@chinaautogroup.com>
 <MN2PR13MB2782B84B88CBBF621B031C9B9E230@MN2PR13MB2782.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAJ1eQwgkwfzpb0FuTSEDym6TOzDZSBJEf9MFKmWFmhUmXD5DCA@mail.gmail.com>

I replaced my original because somehow,  the handle on the tap had broken
off. I didn't know the replacement ones all leaked.  I wonder if TRF and
Moss even know about the problem.  If they do, why would they continue to
sell what they know is faulty, without trying to get the issue(s) resolved?

Dave

On Mon, Sep 14, 2020, 7:29 AM Tom Mulligan <nute_shop at hotmail.com> wrote:

> Perhaps the reproduction cocks are poorly made but the original ones
> didn't leak. The design is ancient (similar cocks tapped beer kegs in the
> middle ages). There are two on every TR2 or 3, one in the block and one in
> the radiator.
> And Dave, the plug is not a bad idea, and you wouldn't be the first to
> resort to that. Mine both work and don't leak but I never use them . On the
> rare occasions that I drain the coolant, I simply pull off the bottom
> radiator hose, quick and easy.
> Tom
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Steve Kirby <sackirby at chinaautogroup.com>
> *Sent:* Sunday, September 13, 2020 3:50 PM
> *To:* David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com>
> *Cc:* Tom Mulligan <nute_shop at hotmail.com>; TR3 Triumphs <
> triumphs at autox.team.net>; New England Triumphs <net at newenglandtriumphs.org
> >
> *Subject:* Re: [TR] [NET] Small coolant leak
>
> They all leak.  Bad design from day one.  You can try removing it,
> disassembling it and lapping the mating surfaces with valve lapping
> compound.
>
> Steve Kirby
>
> On Sep 13, 2020, at 12:09 PM, David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> Hey Tom ~ Thanks! I needed the laugh. Maybe I should 'avoid the rush' and
> just install a pipe plug now... ?
>
> Dave
>
> On Sun, Sep 13, 2020, 2:42 PM Tom Mulligan <nute_shop at hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> Oh, And if  you get the leak to stop it will eventually clog up solid with
> crud and never leak (or drain) again.
> Tom
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* NET <net-bounces at newenglandtriumphs.org> on behalf of David
> Friedlander via NET <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
> *Sent:* Sunday, September 13, 2020 2:21 PM
> *To:* TR3 Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>; New England Triumphs <
> net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
> *Subject:* [NET] Small coolant leak
>
> I have noticed a small coolant leak from my TR3 and have traced it to the
> handle assembly of the water drain tap on the side of the block. Anyone
> else had this issue? It's a new tap and don't know what the fix might be.
> It's not leaking from where the tap threads into the block... Thanks in
> advance for any BTDT advice...
>
> Dave
>
>
>
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/sackirby at pacbell.net
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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From allen.k.hess at gmail.com  Mon Sep 14 12:49:06 2020
From: allen.k.hess at gmail.com (Allen Hess)
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2020 14:49:06 -0400
Subject: [TR] Small coolant leak
In-Reply-To: <DM6PR19MB3130813C0C8ECFEEEE2E46B5B9220@DM6PR19MB3130.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
References: <DM6PR19MB3130813C0C8ECFEEEE2E46B5B9220@DM6PR19MB3130.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <9CB9FE4D-E8D2-4C8D-A3BD-8810AC21EF2E@gmail.com>

I agree that lapping the parts is the most likely fix. Yes, it may have been a Randall answer years ago. I did it to my original valves and they are fine. If you have an original, the spring which holds the two pieces together, will rust and need to be replaced. 

Allen

> On Sep 13, 2020, at 3:32 PM, Randy and Valerie DeRuiter <deruiterville at hotmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Dave-
> 
> I have to say your note makes me realize how much I miss Randall Young and his always present knowledge of items like this.  Not positive, but I think I recall Randall talking about these taps, and the potential for poorer quality in the replacements.  I believe the fix that can help is to lap in the valve with some lapping compound, similar to a valve job.  Best to take if off the block if you want to try, but it isn't too bad to disassemble and with a little work you may be able to get a better seal.
> 
> Randy
> 
> From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com>
> Sent: Sunday, September 13, 2020 1:21 PM
> To: TR3 Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>; New England Triumphs <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
> Subject: [TR] Small coolant leak
>  
> I have noticed a small coolant leak from my TR3 and have traced it to the handle assembly of the water drain tap on the side of the block. Anyone else had this issue? It's a new tap and don't know what the fix might be. It's not leaking from where the tap threads into the block... Thanks in advance for any BTDT advice...
> 
> Dave
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From grglmn at gmail.com  Mon Sep 14 20:33:24 2020
From: grglmn at gmail.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2020 21:33:24 -0500
Subject: [TR] Small coolant leak
In-Reply-To: <9CB9FE4D-E8D2-4C8D-A3BD-8810AC21EF2E@gmail.com>
References: <DM6PR19MB3130813C0C8ECFEEEE2E46B5B9220@DM6PR19MB3130.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
 <9CB9FE4D-E8D2-4C8D-A3BD-8810AC21EF2E@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFtw3abqh=yytRGyRHk_dCtCfxqY8UAku1kkZxaiO4NqcRiUxQ@mail.gmail.com>

I think I lapped mine and added a small washer to increase tension on the
spring.  Replacement valve, so far so good

Greg Lemon
TR250
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From john at linneyweb.com  Mon Sep 14 08:57:53 2020
From: john at linneyweb.com (John Linney)
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2020 07:57:53 -0700
Subject: [TR] [NET] Small coolant leak
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwgkwfzpb0FuTSEDym6TOzDZSBJEf9MFKmWFmhUmXD5DCA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwgkwfzpb0FuTSEDym6TOzDZSBJEf9MFKmWFmhUmXD5DCA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <D35E7B01-F18A-4176-9220-DAED444138AB@linneyweb.com>

Go figure. I went through three of them before arriving at my ?gum it up with something? solution.

> On Sep 14, 2020, at 6:16 AM, David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> I replaced my original because somehow,  the handle on the tap had broken off. I didn't know the replacement ones all leaked.  I wonder if TRF and Moss even know about the problem.  If they do, why would they continue to sell what they know is faulty, without trying to get the issue(s) resolved?
> 
> Dave
> 
>> On Mon, Sep 14, 2020, 7:29 AM Tom Mulligan <nute_shop at hotmail.com> wrote:
>> Perhaps the reproduction cocks are poorly made but the original ones didn't leak. The design is ancient (similar cocks tapped beer kegs in the middle ages). There are two on every TR2 or 3, one in the block and one in the radiator. 
>> And Dave, the plug is not a bad idea, and you wouldn't be the first to resort to that. Mine both work and don't leak but I never use them . On the rare occasions that I drain the coolant, I simply pull off the bottom radiator hose, quick and easy.
>> Tom
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> From: Steve Kirby <sackirby at chinaautogroup.com>
>> Sent: Sunday, September 13, 2020 3:50 PM
>> To: David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com>
>> Cc: Tom Mulligan <nute_shop at hotmail.com>; TR3 Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>; New England Triumphs <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
>> Subject: Re: [TR] [NET] Small coolant leak
>>  
>> They all leak.  Bad design from day one.  You can try removing it, disassembling it and lapping the mating surfaces with valve lapping compound.
>> 
>> Steve Kirby
>> 
>> On Sep 13, 2020, at 12:09 PM, David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>>> Hey Tom ~ Thanks! I needed the laugh. Maybe I should 'avoid the rush' and just install a pipe plug now... ?
>>> 
>>> Dave
>>> 
>>> On Sun, Sep 13, 2020, 2:42 PM Tom Mulligan <nute_shop at hotmail.com> wrote:
>>> Oh, And if  you get the leak to stop it will eventually clog up solid with crud and never leak (or drain) again.
>>> Tom
>>> 
>>> From: NET <net-bounces at newenglandtriumphs.org> on behalf of David Friedlander via NET <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
>>> Sent: Sunday, September 13, 2020 2:21 PM
>>> To: TR3 Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>; New England Triumphs <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
>>> Subject: [NET] Small coolant leak
>>>  
>>> I have noticed a small coolant leak from my TR3 and have traced it to the handle assembly of the water drain tap on the side of the block. Anyone else had this issue? It's a new tap and don't know what the fix might be. It's not leaking from where the tap threads into the block... Thanks in advance for any BTDT advice...
>>> 
>>> Dave
>>>  
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>> 
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>>> 
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/sackirby at pacbell.net
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john at linneyweb.com
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From forzion7 at gmail.com  Mon Sep 14 10:09:42 2020
From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2020 12:09:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] [NET] Small coolant leak
In-Reply-To: <044e7d9ff316420aafa0a50543050e8f@chinaautogroup.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwgkwfzpb0FuTSEDym6TOzDZSBJEf9MFKmWFmhUmXD5DCA@mail.gmail.com>
 <D35E7B01-F18A-4176-9220-DAED444138AB@linneyweb.com>
 <044e7d9ff316420aafa0a50543050e8f@chinaautogroup.com>
Message-ID: <CAJ1eQwhP=ptMsonhv3ohWYbZqgkCx-vEP2cXny+MJNpumgVhCA@mail.gmail.com>

Thank you, Steve. Since the leak occurs (at least for me) primarily when
the system is under pressure, it's hard to know when one has sufficiently
lapped the surfaces. Anyone happen to know the thread size?

Dave

On Mon, Sep 14, 2020, 11:57 AM Steve Kirby <sackirby at chinaautogroup.com>
wrote:

> The design of this valve employs a metal on metal interface as a sealing
> surface.  There are no orings, seals or packing of any kind.  The ability
> to seal depends solely on the two tapered metal surfaces being symmetrical
> enough to hold water under pressure.  That is not a good design.  I believe
> that in the early days, since these valves are rarely used, they seeped
> enough water that eventually enough corrosion set in to accomplish a seal.
> The usually start to leak more seriously after the valve has been
> operated.  That makes sense, since then the corrosion seal would be broken
> and the process would have to start all over again.  If the earlier
> corrosion had pitted or otherwise damaged the metal to metal interface,
> then that would make it even harder for the valve to eventually reseal.
>
>
>
> The valve serves little if any purpose.  I simple pipe plug could be
> substituted for a dependable seal and removed when the block is drained.
> However many people want to keep the period correct look of the valve
> (without having the leaking problem).  That is why Moss is considering
> offering a ?dummy? valve.  It will look just like the original and the
> handle will even turn, but the passage from the block to the valve stem
> will not be drilled, hence making this in essence a fancy pipe plug.
>
>
>
> The only ?fix? I have seen, and it is rarely 100% successful, is to
> disassemble the valve and then try to lap the two metal surfaces together
> using valve lapping compound.  This presumably would ?perfect? the
> interface of the two metal parts to a point where they would create a
> seal.
>
>
>
> *Steve Kirby*
>
> *President*
>
> *China Auto Group*
>
> 22831 Avenida Empresa
>
> Rancho Santa Margarita, CA 92688 USA
>
> Direct:  (949) 261-8208
>
> Fax:  (949) 767-5949
>
> Cell:  (949) 903-0957
>
> Skype: steve.kirby29
>
> www.chinaautogroup.com
>
>
>
> *From:* John Linney <john at linneyweb.com>
> *Sent:* Monday, September 14, 2020 7:58 AM
> *To:* David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com>
> *Cc:* Tom Mulligan <nute_shop at hotmail.com>; TR3 Triumphs <
> triumphs at autox.team.net>; Steve Kirby <sackirby at chinaautogroup.com>; New
> England Triumphs <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
> *Subject:* Re: [TR] [NET] Small coolant leak
>
>
>
> Go figure. I went through three of them before arriving at my ?gum it up
> with something? solution.
>
> On Sep 14, 2020, at 6:16 AM, David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> ?
>
> I replaced my original because somehow,  the handle on the tap had broken
> off. I didn't know the replacement ones all leaked.  I wonder if TRF and
> Moss even know about the problem.  If they do, why would they continue to
> sell what they know is faulty, without trying to get the issue(s) resolved?
>
>
>
> Dave
>
>
>
> On Mon, Sep 14, 2020, 7:29 AM Tom Mulligan <nute_shop at hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> Perhaps the reproduction cocks are poorly made but the original ones
> didn't leak. The design is ancient (similar cocks tapped beer kegs in the
> middle ages). There are two on every TR2 or 3, one in the block and one in
> the radiator.
>
> And Dave, the plug is not a bad idea, and you wouldn't be the first to
> resort to that. Mine both work and don't leak but I never use them . On the
> rare occasions that I drain the coolant, I simply pull off the bottom
> radiator hose, quick and easy.
>
> Tom
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> *From:* Steve Kirby <sackirby at chinaautogroup.com>
> *Sent:* Sunday, September 13, 2020 3:50 PM
> *To:* David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com>
> *Cc:* Tom Mulligan <nute_shop at hotmail.com>; TR3 Triumphs <
> triumphs at autox.team.net>; New England Triumphs <net at newenglandtriumphs.org
> >
> *Subject:* Re: [TR] [NET] Small coolant leak
>
>
>
> They all leak.  Bad design from day one.  You can try removing it,
> disassembling it and lapping the mating surfaces with valve lapping
> compound.
>
> Steve Kirby
>
>
> On Sep 13, 2020, at 12:09 PM, David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> Hey Tom ~ Thanks! I needed the laugh. Maybe I should 'avoid the rush' and
> just install a pipe plug now... ?
>
>
>
> Dave
>
>
>
> On Sun, Sep 13, 2020, 2:42 PM Tom Mulligan <nute_shop at hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> Oh, And if  you get the leak to stop it will eventually clog up solid with
> crud and never leak (or drain) again.
>
> Tom
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> *From:* NET <net-bounces at newenglandtriumphs.org> on behalf of David
> Friedlander via NET <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
> *Sent:* Sunday, September 13, 2020 2:21 PM
> *To:* TR3 Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>; New England Triumphs <
> net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
> *Subject:* [NET] Small coolant leak
>
>
>
> I have noticed a small coolant leak from my TR3 and have traced it to the
> handle assembly of the water drain tap on the side of the block. Anyone
> else had this issue? It's a new tap and don't know what the fix might be.
> It's not leaking from where the tap threads into the block... Thanks in
> advance for any BTDT advice...
>
>
>
> Dave
>
>
>
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/sackirby at pacbell.net
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
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From forzion7 at gmail.com  Mon Sep 14 15:56:15 2020
From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2020 17:56:15 -0400
Subject: [TR] [NET] Small coolant leak
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR13MB27820D33BE6B3E8D74F5347C9E230@MN2PR13MB2782.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwgkwfzpb0FuTSEDym6TOzDZSBJEf9MFKmWFmhUmXD5DCA@mail.gmail.com>
 <D35E7B01-F18A-4176-9220-DAED444138AB@linneyweb.com>
 <044e7d9ff316420aafa0a50543050e8f@chinaautogroup.com>
 <MN2PR13MB27820D33BE6B3E8D74F5347C9E230@MN2PR13MB2782.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAJ1eQwg90OtLB2XmYHTZ5jxQ5_kxKH7XhgHx74bYeQdG6Q8GEA@mail.gmail.com>

Fair enough. Thanks, Tom. If it's such an easy fix, I can't help but be a
bit surprised the manufacturer(s) don't do this just prior to assembly...

On Mon, Sep 14, 2020, 5:51 PM Tom Mulligan <nute_shop at hotmail.com> wrote:

> Lets be fair here. That the tap is a poor design may be correct if
> compared Today's alternatives but the same can be said for about every
> element and system in the TR3.
>
> Making a seal by corrosion is incorrect. The taps, properly fabricated and
> lapped, as they were when Dave's TR3 was built, did not leak. They also
> lasted a long time and were very resistant to corrosion. They were used on
> about every British car from the beginning until the 1970's. They were also
> the choice in boats and ships where sea water had to come through the
> boat's hull, to cool the engine for example.
>
> If you want to fix the poorly made reproduction tap, get some very fine
> valve grinding compound, take the cotter pin out of the drain tap, remove
> the spring and washer and the washer under the spring and tap the barrel
> and handle out. Put some compound in and work the barrel back and forth
> until you get an even pattern on the housing and barrel. Problem solved.
> You might even be able to get toothpaste to work as abrasive. Old school
> technology and old school fix. Takes less than ten minutes once the tap is
> removed.
>
> Guaranteed to work or money back.  And if you operate them a couple of
> time each season, they will not clog up either.
>
> Tom
>
>
> *From:* Steve Kirby <sackirby at chinaautogroup.com>
> *Sent:* Monday, September 14, 2020 11:56 AM
> *To:* John Linney <john at linneyweb.com>; David Friedlander <
> forzion7 at gmail.com>
> *Cc:* Tom Mulligan <nute_shop at hotmail.com>; TR3 Triumphs <
> triumphs at autox.team.net>; New England Triumphs <net at newenglandtriumphs.org
> >
> *Subject:* RE: [TR] [NET] Small coolant leak
>
>
> The design of this valve employs a metal on metal interface as a sealing
> surface.  There are no orings, seals or packing of any kind.  The ability
> to seal depends solely on the two tapered metal surfaces being symmetrical
> enough to hold water under pressure.  That is not a good design.  I believe
> that in the early days, since these valves are rarely used, they seeped
> enough water that eventually enough corrosion set in to accomplish a seal.
> The usually start to leak more seriously after the valve has been
> operated.  That makes sense, since then the corrosion seal would be broken
> and the process would have to start all over again.  If the earlier
> corrosion had pitted or otherwise damaged the metal to metal interface,
> then that would make it even harder for the valve to eventually reseal.
>
>
>
> The valve serves little if any purpose.  I simple pipe plug could be
> substituted for a dependable seal and removed when the block is drained.
> However many people want to keep the period correct look of the valve
> (without having the leaking problem).  That is why Moss is considering
> offering a ?dummy? valve.  It will look just like the original and the
> handle will even turn, but the passage from the block to the valve stem
> will not be drilled, hence making this in essence a fancy pipe plug.
>
>
>
> The only ?fix? I have seen, and it is rarely 100% successful, is to
> disassemble the valve and then try to lap the two metal surfaces together
> using valve lapping compound.  This presumably would ?perfect? the
> interface of the two metal parts to a point where they would create a
> seal.
>
>
>
> *Steve Kirby*
>
> *President*
>
> *China Auto Group*
>
> 22831 Avenida Empresa
>
> Rancho Santa Margarita, CA 92688 USA
>
> Direct:  (949) 261-8208
>
> Fax:  (949) 767-5949
>
> Cell:  (949) 903-0957
>
> Skype: steve.kirby29
>
> www.chinaautogroup.com
>
>
>
> *From:* John Linney <john at linneyweb.com>
> *Sent:* Monday, September 14, 2020 7:58 AM
> *To:* David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com>
> *Cc:* Tom Mulligan <nute_shop at hotmail.com>; TR3 Triumphs <
> triumphs at autox.team.net>; Steve Kirby <sackirby at chinaautogroup.com>; New
> England Triumphs <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
> *Subject:* Re: [TR] [NET] Small coolant leak
>
>
>
> Go figure. I went through three of them before arriving at my ?gum it up
> with something? solution.
>
> On Sep 14, 2020, at 6:16 AM, David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> ?
>
> I replaced my original because somehow,  the handle on the tap had broken
> off. I didn't know the replacement ones all leaked.  I wonder if TRF and
> Moss even know about the problem.  If they do, why would they continue to
> sell what they know is faulty, without trying to get the issue(s) resolved?
>
>
>
> Dave
>
>
>
> On Mon, Sep 14, 2020, 7:29 AM Tom Mulligan <nute_shop at hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> Perhaps the reproduction cocks are poorly made but the original ones
> didn't leak. The design is ancient (similar cocks tapped beer kegs in the
> middle ages). There are two on every TR2 or 3, one in the block and one in
> the radiator.
>
> And Dave, the plug is not a bad idea, and you wouldn't be the first to
> resort to that. Mine both work and don't leak but I never use them . On the
> rare occasions that I drain the coolant, I simply pull off the bottom
> radiator hose, quick and easy.
>
> Tom
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> *From:* Steve Kirby <sackirby at chinaautogroup.com>
> *Sent:* Sunday, September 13, 2020 3:50 PM
> *To:* David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com>
> *Cc:* Tom Mulligan <nute_shop at hotmail.com>; TR3 Triumphs <
> triumphs at autox.team.net>; New England Triumphs <net at newenglandtriumphs.org
> >
> *Subject:* Re: [TR] [NET] Small coolant leak
>
>
>
> They all leak.  Bad design from day one.  You can try removing it,
> disassembling it and lapping the mating surfaces with valve lapping
> compound.
>
> Steve Kirby
>
>
> On Sep 13, 2020, at 12:09 PM, David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> Hey Tom ~ Thanks! I needed the laugh. Maybe I should 'avoid the rush' and
> just install a pipe plug now... ?
>
>
>
> Dave
>
>
>
> On Sun, Sep 13, 2020, 2:42 PM Tom Mulligan <nute_shop at hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> Oh, And if  you get the leak to stop it will eventually clog up solid with
> crud and never leak (or drain) again.
>
> Tom
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> *From:* NET <net-bounces at newenglandtriumphs.org> on behalf of David
> Friedlander via NET <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
> *Sent:* Sunday, September 13, 2020 2:21 PM
> *To:* TR3 Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>; New England Triumphs <
> net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
> *Subject:* [NET] Small coolant leak
>
>
>
> I have noticed a small coolant leak from my TR3 and have traced it to the
> handle assembly of the water drain tap on the side of the block. Anyone
> else had this issue? It's a new tap and don't know what the fix might be.
> It's not leaking from where the tap threads into the block... Thanks in
> advance for any BTDT advice...
>
>
>
> Dave
>
>
>
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/sackirby at pacbell.net
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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From fishplate at gmail.com  Tue Sep 15 14:09:49 2020
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2020 16:09:49 -0400
Subject: [TR] Small coolant leak
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwi5=Pg=BtjZsgvqHZ0=hWAF7O=p3AEyPWX_Fo6NagTi7g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwi5=Pg=BtjZsgvqHZ0=hWAF7O=p3AEyPWX_Fo6NagTi7g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAO8Q7CMFU=NX13mEFyujb-0QB5-BgjXp=isdOYprmmWJonKCKg@mail.gmail.com>

So, here's a thought.   Clean and dry the valve.  Close it up tight.  Take
a ~tiny~ bit of sealant of your choice, and seal the disc to the body.  Not
so much as to be a concern if it should drift into the cooling system -
just enough to do the job.  Then insert it into the block.

The valve should still operate as desired when you have to drain the block,
at which time you can re-seal it.  You still control the direction of flow
of coolant (which is the advantage of the drain tap vs. the plug, and you
still get that period look.

On Sun, Sep 13, 2020 at 2:38 PM David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com>
wrote:

> I have noticed a small coolant leak from my TR3 and have traced it to the
> handle assembly of the water drain tap on the side of the block. Anyone
> else had this issue? It's a new tap and don't know what the fix might be.
> It's not leaking from where the tap threads into the block... Thanks in
> advance for any BTDT advice...
>
> Dave
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fishplate at gmail.com
>
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From mmarr at albiontechnical.com  Tue Sep 15 15:46:56 2020
From: mmarr at albiontechnical.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2020 21:46:56 +0000
Subject: [TR] Small coolant leak
In-Reply-To: <CAO8Q7CMFU=NX13mEFyujb-0QB5-BgjXp=isdOYprmmWJonKCKg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwi5=Pg=BtjZsgvqHZ0=hWAF7O=p3AEyPWX_Fo6NagTi7g@mail.gmail.com>,
 <CAO8Q7CMFU=NX13mEFyujb-0QB5-BgjXp=isdOYprmmWJonKCKg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <44A33DB4-137F-409D-BB1D-452121F79135@albiontechnical.com>

The drain ?valve? is actually a petcock. It doesn?t have a gate and seat, as such.  The best fix is to relap the plug to the body, using valve grinding compound. 

Mike


Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 15, 2020, at 15:36, Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> So, here's a thought.   Clean and dry the valve.  Close it up tight.  Take a ~tiny~ bit of sealant of your choice, and seal the disc to the body.  Not so much as to be a concern if it should drift into the cooling system - just enough to do the job.  Then insert it into the block.
> 
> The valve should still operate as desired when

From triumphstag at gmail.com  Wed Sep 16 14:16:41 2020
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2020 13:16:41 -0700
Subject: [TR] Hoses to carbon canister for Triumphs similar to that,
 used on a TR6 (Sujit Roy)
In-Reply-To: <CAO8Q7CNQTGc-FN7qQDApY9Pr2=ou0tRO4noU6Xi_VB3GPvsynw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <dc52f8a4-524e-15a9-77d2-684b260c8cdb.ref@att.net>
 <dc52f8a4-524e-15a9-77d2-684b260c8cdb@att.net>
 <CANLCLaE-5oLZR1svgq1dQFCSBqwwgAJKA5iFNN6UyCMsPXQbCw@mail.gmail.com>
 <868235020.6600500.1598619784180@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CANLCLaFyH0U4gePwBn1csjB_FATSckCydYdaVxrWDo0JtziYrg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAO8Q7CNVbufbXczCHqD7pJRfWoiXTAuCGom9rYCCQnKZg+s5GA@mail.gmail.com>
 <1195122774.1147906.1598977448817@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CANLCLaGfDZ4kOd_2fWSc6esb9q_mQuFLHUZdPB4ej5dPMN1WQg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAO8Q7CNQTGc-FN7qQDApY9Pr2=ou0tRO4noU6Xi_VB3GPvsynw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANLCLaGeGDUYdV-bc+sLQADT8XoAzh6QFZcJc2z_o2SFgixsxg@mail.gmail.com>

In the end I got some right angled pcv elbows for a Chrysler. Later mk2
canisters had horizontal ports.

On Wed, Sep 2, 2020, 11:24 AM Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate at gmail.com> wrote:

>
>
> On Tue, Sep 1, 2020 at 4:46 PM Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>> DIdn't all Triumph come with some sticker saying California compliance
>> for emissions or something like that?
>>
>>
> Spitfires from 1975 on had a "C" suffix for California cars.
>
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From aribertn at gmail.com  Wed Sep 16 19:59:17 2020
From: aribertn at gmail.com (aribert neumann)
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2020 21:59:17 -0400
Subject: [TR] Small coolant leak - blueing the tapered surfaces
Message-ID: <CAGkVM28RE73jgT+mi=DVw1SV_gh7xah+db+RmAgLyHibkvxQXQ@mail.gmail.com>

 ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Michael Marr <mmarr at albiontechnical.com>
To: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate at gmail.com>
Cc: David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com>, TR3 Triumphs <
triumphs at autox.team.net>, New England Triumphs <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
Bcc:
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2020 21:46:56 +0000
Subject: Re: [TR] Small coolant leak
The drain ?valve? is actually a petcock. It doesn?t have a gate and seat,
as such.  The best fix is to relap the plug to the body, using valve
grinding compound.
Mike


There is a product called Prussian Blue.  Here is a link to one mfg of it
(not the only one) :
https://www.permatex.com/products/specialized-maintenance-repair/rebuilders-aids/permatex-prussian-blue/
Should be available at any large industrial supply or machining supply type
of store.

I bought a 1/2 or 1 oz tube about 25 yrs ago - still have 90% of it and use
it maybe one or twice a year.  This stuff is nasty, it is infinitely
divisible, it will get all over your hands and clothing if you are not
careful.  I store my small tube in a zip lock bag and frequently I'll only
get a rubbing of blue off of the **outside** of the tube (previous sloppy
handling, hence the zip lock bag).  Put an extremely thin film (almost
translucent) on one of the two mating parts, asm and rotate a few times.
The high spot(s) should transfer over to the mating part.  Now you know how
bad the mating parts are with respect to one another.  Lap the parts as
mentioned above.  Redo the bluing to check the match.  Once the entire
surface around the water port on the cone/socket is showing faint traces of
blue, you are done lapping.  You now have a new skill and someone in the
future, at your estate sale, will have a royal mess on their hands when
they open the tube to find out what it is.
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From Randall.Reihing at utoledo.edu  Thu Sep 17 04:23:40 2020
From: Randall.Reihing at utoledo.edu (Reihing, Randall S.)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2020 10:23:40 +0000
Subject: [TR] [EXTERNAL] Small coolant leak - blueing the tapered
 surfaces
In-Reply-To: <CAGkVM28RE73jgT+mi=DVw1SV_gh7xah+db+RmAgLyHibkvxQXQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAGkVM28RE73jgT+mi=DVw1SV_gh7xah+db+RmAgLyHibkvxQXQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BL0PR01MB47398D11AB5BC7E6F72ACDE1EC3E0@BL0PR01MB4739.prod.exchangelabs.com>

My restored 1948 C85 Taylorcraft has a wing tank pet cock in the cockpit on the passgenr side under the panel. Recently, it started a very slow seep. An occasional drop but not quite a steady drip. The valve is a petcock that rotates 90 degree from full off to full on. It has a tapered bore and tapered stem. The fix was to remove and disasseble the valve, apply the finner grade of Clover Valve Grinding compound followed by Clover Lapping Compound. Prussian Blue was used to verify the two surfaces now perfectly matched. The vlave was reassembled and no longer leaks, even with 6 gallons of AV gas above it.

Sincerey,
Randall Reihing
________________________________
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of aribert neumann <aribertn at gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 16, 2020 9:59 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [EXTERNAL] [TR] Small coolant leak - blueing the tapered surfaces

---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Michael Marr <mmarr at albiontechnical.com<mailto:mmarr at albiontechnical.com>>
To: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate at gmail.com<mailto:fishplate at gmail.com>>
Cc: David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com<mailto:forzion7 at gmail.com>>, TR3 Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>>, New England Triumphs <net at newenglandtriumphs.org<mailto:net at newenglandtriumphs.org>>
Bcc:
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2020 21:46:56 +0000
Subject: Re: [TR] Small coolant leak
The drain ?valve? is actually a petcock. It doesn?t have a gate and seat, as such.  The best fix is to relap the plug to the body, using valve grinding compound.
Mike


There is a product called Prussian Blue.  Here is a link to one mfg of it (not the only one) :   https://www.permatex.com/products/specialized-maintenance-repair/rebuilders-aids/permatex-prussian-blue/<https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.permatex.com/products/specialized-maintenance-repair/rebuilders-aids/permatex-prussian-blue/__;!!LoBwcKfm!1RXucXzoCkVKqGafAKDtvc3yQPgJ__WX-6aY8mEpm7cUqWmH0XXmsiU-g0XKUZlgjepx5yw$>  Should be available at any large industrial supply or machining supply type of store.

I bought a 1/2 or 1 oz tube about 25 yrs ago - still have 90% of it and use it maybe one or twice a year.  This stuff is nasty, it is infinitely divisible, it will get all over your hands and clothing if you are not careful.  I store my small tube in a zip lock bag and frequently I'll only get a rubbing of blue off of the **outside** of the tube (previous sloppy handling, hence the zip lock bag).  Put an extremely thin film (almost translucent) on one of the two mating parts, asm and rotate a few times.  The high spot(s) should transfer over to the mating part.  Now you know how bad the mating parts are with respect to one another.  Lap the parts as mentioned above.  Redo the bluing to check the match.  Once the entire surface around the water port on the cone/socket is showing faint traces of blue, you are done lapping.  You now have a new skill and someone in the future, at your estate sale, will have a royal mess on their hands when they open the tube to find out what it is.
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From dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Sep 17 05:34:02 2020
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2020 11:34:02 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Hoses to carbon canister for Triumphs similar to that,
 used on a TR6 (Sujit Roy)
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaGeGDUYdV-bc+sLQADT8XoAzh6QFZcJc2z_o2SFgixsxg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <dc52f8a4-524e-15a9-77d2-684b260c8cdb.ref@att.net>
 <dc52f8a4-524e-15a9-77d2-684b260c8cdb@att.net>
 <CANLCLaE-5oLZR1svgq1dQFCSBqwwgAJKA5iFNN6UyCMsPXQbCw@mail.gmail.com>
 <868235020.6600500.1598619784180@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CANLCLaFyH0U4gePwBn1csjB_FATSckCydYdaVxrWDo0JtziYrg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAO8Q7CNVbufbXczCHqD7pJRfWoiXTAuCGom9rYCCQnKZg+s5GA@mail.gmail.com>
 <1195122774.1147906.1598977448817@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CANLCLaGfDZ4kOd_2fWSc6esb9q_mQuFLHUZdPB4ej5dPMN1WQg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAO8Q7CNQTGc-FN7qQDApY9Pr2=ou0tRO4noU6Xi_VB3GPvsynw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANLCLaGeGDUYdV-bc+sLQADT8XoAzh6QFZcJc2z_o2SFgixsxg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <957445870.3397852.1600342442844@mail.yahoo.com>

 I think a well placed elbow is a thing of beauty.? Molded hoses are a boon for the manufacturers since that is one piece instead of three but you have to have the volume to justify the tooling.
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com>
To: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate at gmail.com>
Cc: Triumphs (triumphs at autox.team.net) <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Sep 16, 2020 3:16 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] Hoses to carbon canister for Triumphs similar to that, used on a TR6 (Sujit Roy)

In the end I got some right angled pcv elbows for a Chrysler. Later mk2 canisters had horizontal ports.
On Wed, Sep 2, 2020, 11:24 AM Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate at gmail.com> wrote:



On Tue, Sep 1, 2020 at 4:46 PM Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com> wrote:
?
DIdn't all Triumph?come with some sticker saying California compliance for emissions?or something like that?


Spitfires from 1975 on had a "C" suffix for California cars.?
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Sep 15 05:30:20 2020
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2020 11:30:20 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] [NET] Small coolant leak
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwg90OtLB2XmYHTZ5jxQ5_kxKH7XhgHx74bYeQdG6Q8GEA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwgkwfzpb0FuTSEDym6TOzDZSBJEf9MFKmWFmhUmXD5DCA@mail.gmail.com>
 <D35E7B01-F18A-4176-9220-DAED444138AB@linneyweb.com>
 <044e7d9ff316420aafa0a50543050e8f@chinaautogroup.com>
 <MN2PR13MB27820D33BE6B3E8D74F5347C9E230@MN2PR13MB2782.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAJ1eQwg90OtLB2XmYHTZ5jxQ5_kxKH7XhgHx74bYeQdG6Q8GEA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1319888113.2460544.1600169420395@mail.yahoo.com>

 The manufacturer didn't do this because it wasn't on the spec sheet and QA wasn't looking over their shoulder.? These things are Low-Bid and any add process will add cost.? And since we, the consumers, are cheap the vendor has to go with the low bid.? Sad but true.
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com>
To: Tom Mulligan <nute_shop at hotmail.com>
Cc: TR3 Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>; New England Triumphs <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>; Steve Kirby <sackirby at chinaautogroup.com>
Sent: Mon, Sep 14, 2020 4:56 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] [NET] Small coolant leak

Fair enough. Thanks, Tom. If it's such an easy fix, I can't help but be a bit surprised the manufacturer(s) don't do this just prior to assembly...
On Mon, Sep 14, 2020, 5:51 PM Tom Mulligan <nute_shop at hotmail.com> wrote:

Lets be fair here. That the tap is a poor design may be correct if compared Today's alternatives but the same can be said for about every element and system in the TR3.

Making a seal by corrosion is incorrect. The taps, properly fabricated and lapped, as they were when Dave's TR3 was built, did not leak. They also lasted a long time and were very resistant to corrosion. They were used on about every British car from the beginning until the 1970's. They were also the choice in boats and ships where sea water had to come through the boat's hull, to cool the engine for example.

If you want to fix the poorly made reproduction tap, get some very fine valve grinding compound, take the cotter pin out of the drain tap, remove the spring and washer and the washer under the spring and tap the barrel and handle out. Put some compound in and work the barrel back and forth until you get an even pattern on the housing and barrel. Problem solved. You might even be able to get toothpaste to work as abrasive. Old school technology and old school fix. Takes less than ten minutes once the tap is removed.

Guaranteed to work or money back.? And if you operate them a couple of time each season, they will not clog up either.

Tom


From: Steve Kirby <sackirby at chinaautogroup.com>
Sent: Monday, September 14, 2020 11:56 AM
To: John Linney <john at linneyweb.com>; David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com>
Cc: Tom Mulligan <nute_shop at hotmail.com>; TR3 Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>; New England Triumphs <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
Subject: RE: [TR] [NET] Small coolant leak?The design of this valve employs a metal on metal interface as a sealing surface.? There are no orings, seals or packing of any kind.? The ability to seal depends solely on the two tapered metal surfaces being symmetrical enough to hold water under pressure.? That is not a good design.? I believe that in the early days, since these valves are rarely used, they seeped enough water that eventually enough corrosion set in to accomplish a seal.? The usually start to leak more seriously after the valve has been operated.? That makes sense, since then the corrosion seal would be broken and the process would have to start all over again.? If the earlier corrosion had pitted or otherwise damaged the metal to metal interface, then that would make it even harder for the valve to eventually reseal.?The valve serves little if any purpose.? I simple pipe plug could be substituted for a dependable seal and removed when the block is drained.? However many people want to keep the period correct look of the valve (without having the leaking problem).? That is why Moss is considering offering a ?dummy? valve.? It will look just like the original and the handle will even turn, but the passage from the block to the valve stem will not be drilled, hence making this in essence a fancy pipe plug.?The only ?fix? I have seen, and it is rarely 100% successful, is to disassemble the valve and then try to lap the two metal surfaces together using valve lapping compound.? This presumably would ?perfect? the interface of the two metal parts to a point where they would create a seal.? ?Steve KirbyPresidentChina Auto Group22831 Avenida EmpresaRancho Santa Margarita, CA 92688 USADirect:? (949) 261-8208Fax:? (949) 767-5949Cell:? (949) 903-0957Skype: steve.kirby29www.chinaautogroup.com?From: John Linney <john at linneyweb.com> 
Sent: Monday, September 14, 2020 7:58 AM
To: David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com>
Cc: Tom Mulligan <nute_shop at hotmail.com>; TR3 Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>; Steve Kirby <sackirby at chinaautogroup.com>; New England Triumphs <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
Subject: Re: [TR] [NET] Small coolant leak?Go figure. I went through three of them before arriving at my ?gum it up with something? solution.
On Sep 14, 2020, at 6:16 AM, David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com> wrote:

?I replaced my original because somehow,? the handle on the tap had broken off. I didn't know the replacement ones all leaked.? I wonder if TRF and Moss even know about the problem.? If they do, why would they continue to sell what they know is faulty, without trying to get the issue(s) resolved??Dave?On Mon, Sep 14, 2020, 7:29 AM Tom Mulligan <nute_shop at hotmail.com> wrote:
Perhaps the reproduction cocks are poorly made but the original ones didn't leak. The design is ancient (similar cocks tapped beer kegs in the middle ages). There are two on every TR2 or 3, one in the block and one in the radiator. And Dave, the plug is not a bad idea, and you wouldn't be the first to resort to that. Mine both work and don't leak but I never use them . On the rare occasions that I drain the coolant, I simply pull off the bottom radiator hose, quick and easy.Tom???From: Steve Kirby <sackirby at chinaautogroup.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 13, 2020 3:50 PM
To: David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com>
Cc: Tom Mulligan <nute_shop at hotmail.com>; TR3 Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>; New England Triumphs <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
Subject: Re: [TR] [NET] Small coolant leak ?They all leak.? Bad design from day one.? You can try removing it, disassembling it and lapping the mating surfaces with valve lapping compound.Steve Kirby
On Sep 13, 2020, at 12:09 PM, David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com> wrote:
Hey Tom ~ Thanks! I needed the laugh. Maybe I should 'avoid the rush' and just install a pipe plug now...? ?Dave?On Sun, Sep 13, 2020, 2:42 PM Tom Mulligan <nute_shop at hotmail.com> wrote:
Oh, And if? you get the leak to stop it will eventually clog up solid with crud and never leak (or drain) again.Tom?From: NET <net-bounces at newenglandtriumphs.org> on behalf of David Friedlander via NET <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
Sent: Sunday, September 13, 2020 2:21 PM
To: TR3 Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>; New England Triumphs <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>
Subject: [NET] Small coolant leak ?I have noticed a small coolant leak from my TR3 and have traced it to the handle assembly of the water drain tap on the side of the block. Anyone else had this issue? It's a new tap and don't know what the fix might be. It's not leaking from where the tap threads into the block... Thanks in advance for any BTDT advice... ?Dave
??

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???
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?????
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From dbh97530 at gmail.com  Sat Sep 19 11:21:55 2020
From: dbh97530 at gmail.com (David B Hammond)
Date: Sat, 19 Sep 2020 10:21:55 -0700
Subject: [TR] Wiper motor
Message-ID: <002101d68ea9$5fa081a0$1ee184e0$@com>

Can anyone point me at a rebuilder for a tr3 wiper motor?

Thanks

David in Oregon



-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
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From forzion7 at gmail.com  Sat Sep 19 12:19:17 2020
From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Sat, 19 Sep 2020 14:19:17 -0400
Subject: [TR] Wiper motor
In-Reply-To: <002101d68ea9$5fa081a0$1ee184e0$@com>
References: <002101d68ea9$5fa081a0$1ee184e0$@com>
Message-ID: <CAJ1eQwiyOzWogW1D3O4uhry0rxnN8Q+3oL7B-Usc5RHt=kiCSw@mail.gmail.com>

David ~

They're not too hard to rebuild, yourself... The hard part is finding the
wear parts: the spring/brush assembly is, for some reason an NLS item.  By
luck, I found a set last year on eBay...

Dave

On Sat, Sep 19, 2020, 1:34 PM David B Hammond <dbh97530 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Can anyone point me at a rebuilder for a tr3 wiper motor?
>
> Thanks
>
> David in Oregon
>
>
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient&utm_term=icon> Virus-free.
> www.avast.com
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From robertrudolphi at yahoo.com  Sat Sep 19 14:30:56 2020
From: robertrudolphi at yahoo.com (robert rudolphi)
Date: Sat, 19 Sep 2020 20:30:56 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] What wires to i connect to my coil for my 74 TR6
References: <697986378.4296096.1600547456077.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <697986378.4296096.1600547456077@mail.yahoo.com>

Hello all,
I have a really enjoying miss with my TR6 that I think is electrical. I recently bought a Pertronix ignitor electric ignition to replace the 30 year old Piranha . My question is what wires should I have attached to my coil? Currently I have a white/yellow and Brown on the negative side and the Pertronix on the positive side.??
Thanks in advices for any feedback
Robert Rudolphi?
74 TR6
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From john-marie at sbcglobal.net  Sat Sep 19 16:01:34 2020
From: john-marie at sbcglobal.net (John Deluca)
Date: Sat, 19 Sep 2020 17:01:34 -0500
Subject: [TR] 1955 TR2 master cylinder
References: <722BB0F8-C96E-4427-AC45-9E54F0E6633E.ref@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <722BB0F8-C96E-4427-AC45-9E54F0E6633E@sbcglobal.net>

Listers,
My original MC has been professionally rebuilt.  The MC has been installed for 6 mo. but only driven about 8 ?test? miles.  The MC leaks around the seal...and I?m using Dot 3. The filler cap is installed on the back side at the exit pipes per the manual.  I?ve read somewhere that the reservoir should not be filled completely, but don?t remember the exact criteria.  Also, would changing to a cork gasket help?  Is cork compatible with Dot 3?  I understand that this is a common problem, but I?d like to reduce the problem to something like a weep.  Thanks.
John DeLuca

Sent from my iPad

From cliff_hansen at outlook.com  Sat Sep 19 16:31:25 2020
From: cliff_hansen at outlook.com (Cliff Hansen)
Date: Sat, 19 Sep 2020 22:31:25 +0000
Subject: [TR] 1955 TR2 master cylinder
In-Reply-To: <722BB0F8-C96E-4427-AC45-9E54F0E6633E@sbcglobal.net>
References: <722BB0F8-C96E-4427-AC45-9E54F0E6633E.ref@sbcglobal.net>,
 <722BB0F8-C96E-4427-AC45-9E54F0E6633E@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <CY4PR22MB0920D432AE6F0E01C6B24C78FA3C0@CY4PR22MB0920.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>

John,

It is leaking around the fill cap? If yes what is the inner diameter? I would look for a flat EPDM rubber washer. I don?t know the TR2 so perhaps that?s not an option.

Cliff

Get Outlook for iOS<https://aka.ms/o0ukef>
________________________________
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of John Deluca <john-marie at sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 19, 2020 4:01:34 PM
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net> <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] 1955 TR2 master cylinder

Listers,
My original MC has been professionally rebuilt.  The MC has been installed for 6 mo. but only driven about 8 ?test? miles.  The MC leaks around the seal...and I?m using Dot 3. The filler cap is installed on the back side at the exit pipes per the manual.  I?ve read somewhere that the reservoir should not be filled completely, but don?t remember the exact criteria.  Also, would changing to a cork gasket help?  Is cork compatible with Dot 3?  I understand that this is a common problem, but I?d like to reduce the problem to something like a weep.  Thanks.
John DeLuca

Sent from my iPad
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From trguy75 at gmail.com  Sun Sep 20 17:28:14 2020
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen)
Date: Sun, 20 Sep 2020 19:28:14 -0400
Subject: [TR] Orig TR6 Radio
Message-ID: <005901d68fa5$b739e990$25adbcb0$@gmail.com>

Anyone have an original Bendix BL am fm radio in working condition?  Please
contact me off list.
Thanks,
Jim Henningsen
Ocala, FL


From staffel at comcast.net  Sun Sep 20 19:51:21 2020
From: staffel at comcast.net (staffel)
Date: Sun, 20 Sep 2020 21:51:21 -0400
Subject: [TR] Brake Master cylinder Cap weeps
Message-ID: <mailman.9.1600653086.3211.triumphs@autox.team.net>


Hi John. Rationale for not bringing fluid level too high is dual: 1) sloshing; 2) liquidxheat expansion.On several old cars the steel caps tend to corrode from the fluid contact over time. Some rubber gaskets better than others.?Old timers trick was making gaskets out of old tubes.Another trick I have resorted to is to super clean the inside treads of the cap. Super clean the Reservoir casting threads. Schmear heavy motor oil or lithium grease on cylindrr casting threads.??Schmear RTV on threads of the steel cap. Gently tighten cap 'slightly less hand torque than usual'RTV acts like a 'side gasket'. Really cuts down on the weepage.On my TR4, the placement of the brake & master clutch cylinders on 'the shelf' vs later TR6 front panel below shelf has caused shelf paint to wrinkle so no longer 'Concours'.? Why some have painted those shelves black or used battery acid resistant?coating vs body color.Brake fluid very corrosive to paint.Why some Concours car owners went to silicone D0T 4 ( or is it D0T5.Anyway RTV is a very useful 'tool'.Sherman?TR4 CT50054L (Original owner)Columbia MD?Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S10, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable smartphone
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From dctr6 at optonline.net  Mon Sep 21 09:15:53 2020
From: dctr6 at optonline.net (dctr6 at optonline.net)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2020 11:15:53 -0400
Subject: [TR] "Enjoying" miss
Message-ID: <001a01d6902a$199ca210$4cd5e630$@optonline.net>

robert rudolphi <robertrudolphi at yahoo.com <mailto:robertrudolphi at yahoo.com> > wrote:

Subject: [TR] What wires to i connect to my coil for my 74 TR6

>I have a really enjoying miss with my TR6 that I think is electrical. I recently bought a Pertronix ignitor electric ignition to replace the 30 year old Piranha . My question is what wires should I have attached to >my coil? Currently I have a white/yellow and Brown on the negative side and the Pertronix on the positive side.??

  Robert ? 

    I?m glad you?re enjoying your miss ? (I presume spellcheck changed it from annoying).  Have you recently or ever had your distributor rebuilt/recurved?  I chased a miss for years and having the dizzy rebuilt/recurved by Advanced Distributors in MN fixed it.  Just a thought.

Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY 1976 TR6 CF57948U

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From ptegler at verizon.net  Mon Sep 21 09:47:55 2020
From: ptegler at verizon.net (ptegler at verizon.net)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2020 15:47:55 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] "Enjoying" miss
In-Reply-To: <001a01d6902a$199ca210$4cd5e630$@optonline.net>
References: <001a01d6902a$199ca210$4cd5e630$@optonline.net>
Message-ID: <1207124804.4367532.1600703275813@mail.yahoo.com>


is the Pert hooked to the coil AFTER the ballast wire? paperwork says 12V not 6-9V after the ballast wire at the coil.
...coil ONLY if no ballast wire is used.

ptegler

-----Original Message-----
From: dctr6 at optonline.net
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Mon, Sep 21, 2020 11:17 am
Subject: [TR] "Enjoying" miss

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robert rudolphi <robertrudolphi at yahoo.com> wrote:

Subject: [TR] What wires to i connect to my coil for my 74 TR6

>I have a really enjoying miss with my TR6 that I think is electrical. I recently bought a Pertronix ignitor electric ignition to replace the 30 year old Piranha . My question is what wires should I have attached to >my coil? Currently I have a white/yellow and Brown on the negative side and the Pertronix on the positive side.??

 

??Robert ? 

????I?m glad you?re enjoying your miss ? (I presume spellcheck changed it from annoying).? Have you recently or ever had your distributor rebuilt/recurved?? I chased a miss for years and having the dizzy rebuilt/recurved by Advanced Distributors in MN fixed it.? Just a thought.

Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY 1976 TR6 CF57948U
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From aljlthomson at charter.net  Mon Sep 21 11:37:51 2020
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson)
Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2020 13:37:51 -0400
Subject: [TR] "Enjoying" miss
In-Reply-To: <001a01d6902a$199ca210$4cd5e630$@optonline.net>
References: <001a01d6902a$199ca210$4cd5e630$@optonline.net>
Message-ID: <003301d6903d$ee7f4010$cb7dc030$@charter.net>

Make sure to feed the Pertronix unit with a full 12 volts. If you feed it with the original coil wire that runs through the resistance section, it will die a certain death due to only 8 ? 9 volts. I don?t have the wiring diagram in front of me, but I assume you could feed it with a jumper wire off the switched fuse circuit or off an alternator wire that becomes live with the ignition switch.

 

Alex Thomson

 

From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of dctr6 at optonline.net
Sent: Monday, September 21, 2020 11:16 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] "Enjoying" miss

 

robert rudolphi <robertrudolphi at yahoo.com> wrote:

Subject: [TR] What wires to i connect to my coil for my 74 TR6

>I have a really enjoying miss with my TR6 that I think is electrical. I recently bought a Pertronix ignitor electric ignition to replace the 30 year old Piranha . My question is what wires should I have attached to >my coil? Currently I have a white/yellow and Brown on the negative side and the Pertronix on the positive side.??

 

  Robert ? 

    I?m glad you?re enjoying your miss ? (I presume spellcheck changed it from annoying).  Have you recently or ever had your distributor rebuilt/recurved?  I chased a miss for years and having the dizzy rebuilt/recurved by Advanced Distributors in MN fixed it.  Just a thought.

Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY 1976 TR6 CF57948U

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From Staffel at comcast.net  Wed Sep 23 09:45:31 2020
From: Staffel at comcast.net (SHERMAN D. TAFFEL)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2020 16:45:31 +0100
Subject: [TR] Visit
Message-ID: <mailman.11.1600875933.3211.triumphs@autox.team.net>

 - This mail is in HTML. Some elements may be ommited in plain text. -

Hello,  How are you? Can i ask for a favor?
Thanks!
Sherman
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From mmarr at albiontechnical.com  Wed Sep 23 10:07:52 2020
From: mmarr at albiontechnical.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2020 16:07:52 +0000
Subject: [TR] Potential Spam or Scam
Message-ID: <CH2PR11MB43910CDD090B30865949C534A0380@CH2PR11MB4391.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>

Listers:

I got an e-mail a few minutes ago, purportedly from Sherman Taffel, with the subject "Visit" and the following message:

"Hello, how are you?  Can I ask you for a favor?

While I know of Sherman through the list, I do not know him personally and it is unlikely that he would send me an e-mail like this, so I suspect his e-mail account has been hacked.  Has anybody else received a similar note?

Sherman, if you read this, you may want to take the appropriate steps.

Regards,

Mike

Michael J Marr, P.E., CEng.
Albion Technical Services
W5918 Hackbarth Rd
Fort Atkinson, WI 53538

Cell:  630-202-0065
Email:  mmarr at albiontechnical.com

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From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Wed Sep 23 10:10:18 2020
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2020 12:10:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] Potential Spam or Scam
In-Reply-To: <CH2PR11MB43910CDD090B30865949C534A0380@CH2PR11MB4391.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CH2PR11MB43910CDD090B30865949C534A0380@CH2PR11MB4391.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <E15D44F586464AE68A20B45D7E205976@VlackTK121647>

I got the same email and deleted it.
JVV

From: Michael Marr 
Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2020 12:07 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Subject: [TR] Potential Spam or Scam

Listers:

 

I got an e-mail a few minutes ago, purportedly from Sherman Taffel, with the subject ?Visit? and the following message:

 

?Hello, how are you?  Can I ask you for a favor?

 

While I know of Sherman through the list, I do not know him personally and it is unlikely that he would send me an e-mail like this, so I suspect his e-mail account has been hacked.  Has anybody else received a similar note?

 

Sherman, if you read this, you may want to take the appropriate steps.

 

Regards,

 

Mike

 

Michael J Marr, P.E., CEng.

Albion Technical Services

W5918 Hackbarth Rd

Fort Atkinson, WI 53538

 

Cell:  630-202-0065

Email:  mmarr at albiontechnical.com

 



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From mark at bradakis.com  Wed Sep 23 10:17:08 2020
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2020 10:17:08 -0600
Subject: [TR] Potential Spam or Scam
In-Reply-To: <CH2PR11MB43910CDD090B30865949C534A0380@CH2PR11MB4391.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CH2PR11MB43910CDD090B30865949C534A0380@CH2PR11MB4391.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <7593255e-9209-ed90-6a27-d6871a724d35@bradakis.com>

On 9/23/20 10:07 AM, Michael Marr wrote:
>
> Listers:
>
> I got an e-mail a few minutes ago, purportedly from Sherman Taffel, 
> with the subject ?Visit? and the following message:
>

Yes, a fake email, it came to a couple of other Team Net addresses.? I 
try to filter ut such stuff, but it doesn't always work.

mjb.



From jmitch at snet.net  Wed Sep 23 10:48:33 2020
From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2020 12:48:33 -0400
Subject: [TR] Potential Spam or Scam
In-Reply-To: <CH2PR11MB43910CDD090B30865949C534A0380@CH2PR11MB4391.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CH2PR11MB43910CDD090B30865949C534A0380@CH2PR11MB4391.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <3b4c69e9-1ab3-2337-ad34-52927e7cb41d@snet.net>

Yes, I also received and deleted the emai.

On 9/23/2020 12:07 PM, Michael Marr wrote:
>
> Listers:
>
> I got an e-mail a few minutes ago, purportedly from Sherman Taffel, 
> with the subject ?Visit? and the following message:
>
> ?Hello, how are you?? Can I ask you for a favor?
>
> While I know of Sherman through the list, I do not know him personally 
> and it is unlikely that he would send me an e-mail like this, so I 
> suspect his e-mail account has been hacked.? Has anybody else received 
> a similar note?
>
> Sherman, if you read this, you may want to take the appropriate steps.
>
> Regards,
>
> Mike
>
> Michael J Marr, P.E., CEng.
>
> Albion Technical Services
>
> W5918 Hackbarth Rd
>
> Fort Atkinson, WI 53538
>
> Cell:? 630-202-0065
>
> Email:? mmarr at albiontechnical.com
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jmitch at snet.net
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From scottstarkweather at rocketmail.com  Wed Sep 23 11:49:03 2020
From: scottstarkweather at rocketmail.com (Scott Starkweather)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2020 17:49:03 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Visit
In-Reply-To: <20200923154545.C6975A06BE@autox.team.net>
References: <20200923154545.C6975A06BE@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <291676220.7894593.1600883343072@mail.yahoo.com>

Sure,


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone


On Wednesday, September 23, 2020, 11:45 AM, SHERMAN D. TAFFEL <Staffel at comcast.net> wrote:


Hello,? How are you? Can i ask for a favor?



Thanks!
Sherman
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/scottstarkweather at rocketmail.com



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From tochilds at bellsouth.net  Wed Sep 23 11:51:52 2020
From: tochilds at bellsouth.net (James Childs)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2020 17:51:52 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Potential Spam or Scam
In-Reply-To: <3b4c69e9-1ab3-2337-ad34-52927e7cb41d@snet.net>
References: <CH2PR11MB43910CDD090B30865949C534A0380@CH2PR11MB4391.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>
 <3b4c69e9-1ab3-2337-ad34-52927e7cb41d@snet.net>
Message-ID: <515630602.7916723.1600883512212@mail.yahoo.com>

 Same here!
    On Wednesday, September 23, 2020, 12:49:24 PM EDT, John Mitchell <jmitch at snet.net> wrote:  
 
   
Yes, I also received and deleted the emai.
 
 On 9/23/2020 12:07 PM, Michael Marr wrote:
  
 <!--#yiv0896529269 _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv0896529269 #yiv0896529269 p.yiv0896529269MsoNormal, #yiv0896529269 li.yiv0896529269MsoNormal, #yiv0896529269 div.yiv0896529269MsoNormal {margin:0in;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;}#yiv0896529269 span.yiv0896529269EmailStyle17 {font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv0896529269 .yiv0896529269MsoChpDefault {font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;} _filtered {}#yiv0896529269 div.yiv0896529269WordSection1 {}-->  
Listers:
 
 ?
 
I got an e-mail a few minutes ago, purportedly from Sherman Taffel, with the subject ?Visit? and the following message:
 
 ?
 
?Hello, how are you?? Can I ask you for a favor?
 
 ?
 
While I know of Sherman through the list, I do not know him personally and it is unlikely that he would send me an e-mail like this, so I suspect his e-mail account has been hacked.? Has anybody else received a similar note?
 
 ?
 
Sherman, if you read this, you may want to take the appropriate steps.
 
 ?
 
Regards,
 
 ?
 
Mike
 
 ?
 
Michael J Marr, P.E., CEng.
 
Albion Technical Services
 
W5918 Hackbarth Rd
 
Fort Atkinson, WI 53538
 
 ?
 
Cell:? 630-202-0065
 
Email:? mmarr at albiontechnical.com
 
 ?
  
  ** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jmitch at snet.net
 
 ** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Wed Sep 23 12:55:09 2020
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2020 13:55:09 -0500
Subject: [TR] Potential Spam or Scam
In-Reply-To: <515630602.7916723.1600883512212@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <515630602.7916723.1600883512212@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <5A07CA59-C6A6-4C8C-A6ED-5279323F6185@yahoo.com>

Got it, deleted it. 
B

#dontkillgrandma

On Sep 23, 2020, at 12:52 PM, James Childs <tochilds at bellsouth.net> wrote:

?
Same here!

On Wednesday, September 23, 2020, 12:49:24 PM EDT, John Mitchell <jmitch at snet.net> wrote:


Yes, I also received and deleted the emai.

On 9/23/2020 12:07 PM, Michael Marr wrote:
> Listers:
> 
>  
> 
> I got an e-mail a few minutes ago, purportedly from Sherman Taffel, with the subject ?Visit? and the following message:
> 
>  
> 
> ?Hello, how are you?  Can I ask you for a favor?
> 
>  
> 
> While I know of Sherman through the list, I do not know him personally and it is unlikely that he would send me an e-mail like this, so I suspect his e-mail account has been hacked.  Has anybody else received a similar note?
> 
>  
> 
> Sherman, if you read this, you may want to take the appropriate steps.
> 
>  
> 
> Regards,
> 
>  
> 
> Mike
> 
>  
> 
> Michael J Marr, P.E., CEng.
> 
> Albion Technical Services
> 
> W5918 Hackbarth Rd
> 
> Fort Atkinson, WI 53538
> 
>  
> 
> Cell:  630-202-0065
> 
> Email:  mmarr at albiontechnical.com
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jmitch at snet.net
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive

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From anabil007 at comcast.net  Wed Sep 23 15:30:44 2020
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh)
Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2020 14:30:44 -0700
Subject: [TR] Visit
In-Reply-To: <20200923154547.DC1F3A06F8@autox.team.net>
References: <20200923154547.DC1F3A06F8@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <3BFEFA7B-3777-420C-8787-953B751DD429@comcast.net>

I also received one ? as with all spam or weird  material I forward it to Cert ? they get paid to check them out ...

> On Sep 23, 2020, at 8:45 AM, SHERMAN D. TAFFEL <Staffel at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> Hello,  How are you? Can i ask for a favor?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> Sherman
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/anabil007 at comcast.net

Life is too short
to drive Boring Cars




From davgil at aol.com  Thu Sep 24 06:01:11 2020
From: davgil at aol.com (davgil at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 24 Sep 2020 12:01:11 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] brake pipe fittings
References: <521900490.202303.1600948871817.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <521900490.202303.1600948871817@mail.yahoo.com>

Good morning,I am going to replace the brake hose and pipes on my 1976 TR6.? I have looked at the Moss complete hose and pipe sets but have also considered buying bulk copper/nickel pipe and making my own pipes.? While I have never done this, a good friend of mine has extensive experience in this area and I feel he could cut the fittings off of my old pipes and install them on the new lines and bend the pipe as needed.? Is there a good reason not to go the bulk pipe route instead of buying a complete set of pipes?? I'm probably going to purchase a braided ss hose set to use with the new pipes.David Gill1976 TR6?
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From auprichard at uprichard.net  Fri Sep 25 13:59:21 2020
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (auprichard at uprichard.net)
Date: Fri, 25 Sep 2020 15:59:21 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A for sale
Message-ID: <000001d69376$5ca6af20$15f40d60$@uprichard.net>

Listers:  in case anyone may be interested, I just listed a 1958 TR3A on The
Triumph Experience.  I collected the car last week but with 8 TRs, I really
don't have the space to take on another restoration.

 

There are pics on TRE (just one included here):  there is rust in the usual
places and collision damage to the rear.  The head was removed years ago,
but everything apart from a heater seems to be there.  Asking $2000.

 

Andrew Uprichard

Jackson, Michigan

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From lherault at verizon.net  Fri Sep 25 18:56:01 2020
From: lherault at verizon.net (Ron L'Herault)
Date: Fri, 25 Sep 2020 20:56:01 -0400
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 13, Issue 256
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1575.1601063971.3214.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.1575.1601063971.3214.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <003701d6939f$ce256a50$6a703ef0$@net>

Thank god you are so far away, and it is a bit more than I'd want to pay.

Ron L


Today's Topics:

   1. TR3A for sale (auprichard at uprichard.net)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Fri, 25 Sep 2020 15:59:21 -0400
From: <auprichard at uprichard.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR3A for sale
Message-ID: <000001d69376$5ca6af20$15f40d60$@uprichard.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Listers:  in case anyone may be interested, I just listed a 1958 TR3A on The
Triumph Experience.  I collected the car last week but with 8 TRs, I really
don't have the space to take on another restoration.

 

There are pics on TRE (just one included here):  there is rust in the usual
places and collision damage to the rear.  The head was removed years ago,
but everything apart from a heater seems to be there.  Asking $2000.

 

Andrew Uprichard

Jackson, Michigan


From John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk  Sat Sep 26 12:29:57 2020
From: John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Sat, 26 Sep 2020 19:29:57 +0100
Subject: [TR] brake pipe fittings
In-Reply-To: <521900490.202303.1600948871817@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <521900490.202303.1600948871817.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <521900490.202303.1600948871817@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <2EE28CAF-A942-41C0-8957-9B25BB338DA8@Ukpips.org.uk>

Can?t see the point of farting around using a mix of old and new pipe, especially where brakes are concerned. Fit new throughout.

Jonmac

Bessie Braddock: ?Winston! You?re drunk?.
Churchill: ?and you, Madam, are ugly. But tomorrow, I shall be sober but you will still be ugly?.

> On 24 Sep 2020, at 13:01, davgil at aol.com wrote:
> 
> Good morning,
> I am going to replace the brake hose and pipes on my 1976 TR6.  I have looked at the Moss complete hose and pipe sets but have also considered buying bulk copper/nickel pipe and making my own pipes.  While I have never done this, a good friend of mine has extensive experience in this area and I feel he could cut the fittings off of my old pipes and install them on the new lines and bend the pipe as needed.  Is there a good reason not to go the bulk pipe route instead of buying a complete set of pipes?  I'm probably going to purchase a braided ss hose set to use with the new pipes.
> David Gill
> 1976 TR6 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk
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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Sat Sep 26 14:04:30 2020
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Sat, 26 Sep 2020 15:04:30 -0500
Subject: [TR] brake pipe fittings
In-Reply-To: <2EE28CAF-A942-41C0-8957-9B25BB338DA8@Ukpips.org.uk>
References: <2EE28CAF-A942-41C0-8957-9B25BB338DA8@Ukpips.org.uk>
Message-ID: <A955646E-C24C-4739-AF6D-84D89008AE92@yahoo.com>

New wine, old wine skins, bad idea....John is 100%, get the set, you will have all the fittings new and the pipes will be all precut to the correct length(they were for my TR3).   

Bonus: Project time will be cut in half, equals more driving time!

Bill B


On Sep 26, 2020, at 1:30 PM, John Macartney <John.Macartney at ukpips.org.uk> wrote:

?Can?t see the point of farting around using a mix of old and new pipe, especially where brakes are concerned. Fit new throughout.

Jonmac

Bessie Braddock: ?Winston! You?re drunk?.
Churchill: ?and you, Madam, are ugly. But tomorrow, I shall be sober but you will still be ugly?.

On 24 Sep 2020, at 13:01, davgil at aol.com wrote:

> Good morning,
> I am going to replace the brake hose and pipes on my 1976 TR6.  I have looked at the Moss complete hose and pipe sets but have also considered buying bulk copper/nickel pipe and making my own pipes.  While I have never done this, a good friend of mine has extensive experience in this area and I feel he could cut the fittings off of my old pipes and install them on the new lines and bend the pipe as needed.  Is there a good reason not to go the bulk pipe route instead of buying a complete set of pipes?  I'm probably going to purchase a braided ss hose set to use with the new pipes.
> David Gill
> 1976 TR6 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Sat Sep 26 16:31:19 2020
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Sat, 26 Sep 2020 17:31:19 -0500
Subject: [TR] Was Gland/Olive, now Cap
References: <C3A47C47-33A9-4B07-AF0A-436C6487B1A6.ref@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C3A47C47-33A9-4B07-AF0A-436C6487B1A6@yahoo.com>

Question for those that have done steering wheel conversions that eliminate the stator tube, where do you source a cap to cover the resulting hole?  
Might I find one at my local Ace or FLAPS on Monday morning?

Thanks,
Bill B
TS30800L

#dontkillgrandma

From dave at ranteer.com  Sun Sep 27 08:55:07 2020
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 2020 09:55:07 -0500
Subject: [TR] Help with a TR7
Message-ID: <007601d694de$31484a00$93d8de00$@ranteer.com>

My friend has a 1980 TR7, pretty stock, and he sent me this photo and
message.  Can anyone help?

 

The picture is of the plate that's bolted to the back of the block. A hose
connects this plate to heater output. I originally though that the leak was
the heater core since the water was dripping from the firewall. When Mike
and I were adjusting the carbs, very hot water was coming from the block and
hitting the firewall. I could use some opinions about the origin of the
leak.

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From john-marie at sbcglobal.net  Sun Sep 27 09:44:23 2020
From: john-marie at sbcglobal.net (John Deluca)
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 2020 10:44:23 -0500
Subject: [TR] Electric fan for TR2
References: <6DA1C396-F675-418F-B395-D6436D783736.ref@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <6DA1C396-F675-418F-B395-D6436D783736@sbcglobal.net>

Listers,
Looking for a recommendation for an electric fan for my TR2.  I am not comfortable with those that attach with what look like cable ties.  Thermostatically controlled is not necessary.  On/off switch is good.  Am looking for adequate cooling, good fit and relatively simple installation.  Any comments always appreciated.
John DeLuca
St. Louis

Sent from my iPad

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Sun Sep 27 10:17:19 2020
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (auprichard at uprichard.net)
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 2020 12:17:19 -0400
Subject: [TR] Electric fan for TR2
In-Reply-To: <6DA1C396-F675-418F-B395-D6436D783736@sbcglobal.net>
References: <6DA1C396-F675-418F-B395-D6436D783736.ref@sbcglobal.net>
 <6DA1C396-F675-418F-B395-D6436D783736@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <007601d694e9$ae72fab0$0b58f010$@uprichard.net>

I had a great experience with a company called C, G and J in Gadsden,
Alabama.  I ended up with an aluminum radiator with an electric fan attached
by brackets.  I did get the thermostatically-controlled fan which I love.
As I get older and forgetful I don't have to remember to turn it on at the
stop lights!

Andrew Uprichard
Jackson, Michigan

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of John Deluca
Sent: Sunday, September 27, 2020 11:44 AM
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net> <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Electric fan for TR2

Listers,
Looking for a recommendation for an electric fan for my TR2.  I am not
comfortable with those that attach with what look like cable ties.
Thermostatically controlled is not necessary.  On/off switch is good.  Am
looking for adequate cooling, good fit and relatively simple installation.
Any comments always appreciated.
John DeLuca
St. Louis

Sent from my iPad
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From dlhogye at comcast.net  Sun Sep 27 10:23:34 2020
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE)
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 2020 09:23:34 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Electric fan for TR2
In-Reply-To: <6DA1C396-F675-418F-B395-D6436D783736@sbcglobal.net>
References: <6DA1C396-F675-418F-B395-D6436D783736.ref@sbcglobal.net>
 <6DA1C396-F675-418F-B395-D6436D783736@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <107414057.7522.1601223815018@connect.xfinity.com>

Puller fans with shroud mounting is most efficient, but that means removing the original fan.  Front/push mounting can block normal flow.  The cable tie attachment is quick and easy, but can cause eventual damage to the radiator.  MGBs use a front mounted pusher fans with brackets.  You might consider this type of arrangement.  The MG auxiliary fans have a more classic look and might fit nicely with custom fabricated brackets.  Cobras use a similar arrangement.  I don't know how compatible this would be with the standard grill and opening of a TR2.  I don't think there is room between the grill and radiator for a modern low profile fan.   
I have a Griffin aluminum radiator with a puller fan and shroud, all purchased as a unit from Griffin.  Not inexpensive at $700, but it's a quality setup.  There are less expensive (cheaper) options. 
Good luck,
Dave H.
> On 09/27/2020 8:44 AM John Deluca <john-marie at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> 
>  
> Listers,
> Looking for a recommendation for an electric fan for my TR2.  I am not comfortable with those that attach with what look like cable ties.  Thermostatically controlled is not necessary.  On/off switch is good.  Am looking for adequate cooling, good fit and relatively simple installation.  Any comments always appreciated.
> John DeLuca
> St. Louis
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
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> 
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From triumphstag at gmail.com  Sun Sep 27 10:28:41 2020
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 2020 09:28:41 -0700
Subject: [TR] Help with a TR7
In-Reply-To: <007601d694de$31484a00$93d8de00$@ranteer.com>
References: <007601d694de$31484a00$93d8de00$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <CANLCLaG8cgA9Vr8u-8r2NTByQ9ArBRHWr7rW=3f5ns=JQAYVFA@mail.gmail.com>

Is this the cover from the back of the cylinder head and not the block. The
Stag head has a similar looking cover

On Sun, Sep 27, 2020, 7:55 AM dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:

> My friend has a 1980 TR7, pretty stock, and he sent me this photo and
> message.  Can anyone help?
>
>
>
> The picture is of the plate that?s bolted to the back of the block. A hose
> connects this plate to heater output. I originally though that the leak was
> the heater core since the water was dripping from the firewall. When Mike
> and I were adjusting the carbs, very hot water was coming from the block
> and hitting the firewall. I could use some opinions about the origin of the
> leak.
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
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From dave at ranteer.com  Sun Sep 27 11:19:02 2020
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 2020 12:19:02 -0500
Subject: [TR] Help with a TR7
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaG8cgA9Vr8u-8r2NTByQ9ArBRHWr7rW=3f5ns=JQAYVFA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.15.1601227146.3211.triumphs@autox.team.net>

probably. He sent me this.?
-------- Original message --------From: Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com> Date: 9/27/20  11:28 AM  (GMT-06:00) To: dave <dave at ranteer.com> Cc: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [TR] Help with a TR7 Is this the cover from the back of the cylinder head and not the block. The Stag head has a similar looking coverOn Sun, Sep 27, 2020, 7:55 AM dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:My friend has a 1980 TR7, pretty stock, and he sent me this photo and message.? Can anyone help??The picture is of the plate that?s bolted to the back of the block. A hose connects this plate to heater output. I originally though that the leak was the heater core since the water was dripping from the firewall. When Mike and I were adjusting the carbs, very hot water was coming from the block and hitting the firewall. I could use some opinions about the origin of the leak.** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From ryel at mac.com  Sun Sep 27 11:31:54 2020
From: ryel at mac.com (Rye Livingston)
Date: Sun, 27 Sep 2020 17:31:54 -0000
Subject: [TR] Electric fan for TR2
Message-ID: <9a473622-8025-44e4-8c40-d63963293ea9@me.com>

I've since upgraded?to a Wizard Aluminum fan with the fan built in, but before that I did install a basic electric fan. ?As Dave said, you don't want to use the zip ties they provide. ?Radiator shop told me they will chafe the internal water channels and spring a leak, so I installed aluminum strips across the radiator, screwing into the side brackets. ?Worked great.

Rye
PH: 530-FIND-RYE

On September 27, 2020 at 9:33 AM, DAVE HOGYE <dlhogye at comcast.net> wrote:

Puller fans with shroud mounting is most efficient, but that means removing the original fan. Front/push mounting can block normal flow. The cable tie attachment is quick and easy, but can cause eventual damage to the radiator. MGBs use a front mounted pusher fans with brackets. You might consider this type of arrangement. The MG auxiliary fans have a more classic look and might fit nicely with custom fabricated brackets. Cobras use a similar arrangement. I don't know how compatible this would be with the standard grill and opening of a TR2. I don't think there is room between the grill and radiator for a modern low profile fan. 
I have a Griffin aluminum radiator with a puller fan and shroud, all purchased as a unit from Griffin. Not inexpensive at $700, but it's a quality setup. There are less expensive (cheaper) options. 
Good luck,
Dave H.
On 09/27/2020 8:44 AM John Deluca <john-marie at sbcglobal.net> wrote:


Listers,
Looking for a recommendation for an electric fan for my TR2. I am not comfortable with those that attach with what look like cable ties. Thermostatically controlled is not necessary. On/off switch is good. Am looking for adequate cooling, good fit and relatively simple installation. Any comments always appreciated.
John DeLuca
St. Louis

Sent from my iPad
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From notakitcar at yahoo.com  Mon Sep 28 09:03:20 2020
From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher)
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2020 10:03:20 -0500
Subject: [TR] Was Gland/Olive, now Cap
In-Reply-To: <C3A47C47-33A9-4B07-AF0A-436C6487B1A6@yahoo.com>
References: <C3A47C47-33A9-4B07-AF0A-436C6487B1A6@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <6539E0E4-3A01-4334-8564-821135343DFE@yahoo.com>

Found it at the hardware store, a standard 3/8? Compression fitting.  Job done, one less leak!

Bill B

#dontkillgrandma

On Sep 26, 2020, at 5:31 PM, bill beecher <notakitcar at yahoo.com> wrote:

?Question for those that have done steering wheel conversions that eliminate the stator tube, where do you source a cap to cover the resulting hole?  
Might I find one at my local Ace or FLAPS on Monday morning?

Thanks,
Bill B
TS30800L

#dontkillgrandma

From joemato at sbcglobal.net  Mon Sep 28 09:36:28 2020
From: joemato at sbcglobal.net (JOSEPH MATO)
Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2020 15:36:28 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Brake Pipes
References: <58802051.1624317.1601307388548.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <58802051.1624317.1601307388548@mail.yahoo.com>

I changed my TR 3 brake pipes which were rusted thru with copper-nickel which were developed by Volvo in the 1970s. They are corrosion-proof and easy to form which isn't the case for stainless steel. The SS brake hoses are good also. Joe Mato
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From trguy75 at gmail.com  Tue Sep 29 11:36:32 2020
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen)
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2020 13:36:32 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 GM Alternator Install
Message-ID: <029701d69687$12fab560$38f02020$@gmail.com>

I have a GM 10SI alternator installed on my 75 TR6.  I have an early
alternator bracket as I have the engine setup like an early TR6.  To make
the GM alternator line up with the water pump and crank pullies you need to
trim off some of the lower mounting ear on the alt.  Just curious has anyone
recorded the correct measurement width of the lower ear so it lines up
nicely.  
Thanks,
Jim Henningsen
Ocala, FL
61 TR3A
62 TR4
67 TR4A
75 TR6
81 TR8
 


From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue Sep 29 11:51:19 2020
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2020 13:51:19 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 GM Alternator Install
In-Reply-To: <029701d69687$12fab560$38f02020$@gmail.com>
References: <029701d69687$12fab560$38f02020$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1MqaIG-1kjP3n1r3g-00mczA@mrelay.perfora.net>

Might be something on my site that helps?
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/Alternator_Conversion_1.htm

Bob

Bob Danielson
TR6 Interior Panels, Boot Covers and Fender Blankets
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/PanelBootSales1.htm

From: Jim Henningsen
Sent: Tuesday, September 29, 2020 1:37 PM
To: 'Triumphs'
Subject: [TR] TR6 GM Alternator Install

I have a GM 10SI alternator installed on my 75 TR6.  I have an early
alternator bracket as I have the engine setup like an early TR6.  To make
the GM alternator line up with the water pump and crank pullies you need to
trim off some of the lower mounting ear on the alt.  Just curious has anyone
recorded the correct measurement width of the lower ear so it lines up
nicely.  
Thanks,
Jim Henningsen
Ocala, FL
61 TR3A
62 TR4
67 TR4A
75 TR6
81 TR8
 

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From will.daehler at gmail.com  Tue Sep 29 15:16:33 2020
From: will.daehler at gmail.com (Will Daehler)
Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2020 16:16:33 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 Ignitions switch AUX vs.ON
Message-ID: <001f01d696a5$cfca9a20$6f5fce60$@gmail.com>

OK, I have in the past inadvertently left my key in the ON position. For
days and days.  The result was a burned out coil and points which I was
forced to replace before the car started again. This made me look hard and
long at my fifty year old ignition switch. Although there was a contact
available for AUX on the back of the switch, and it was certainly wired
correctly, there didn't seem to be a AUX key position. There appeared to be
only three positions, Start, On and Off. Three clicks, not four.  I was able
to create a momentary and intermittent AUX effect by twisting the key hard
to the left and firmly holding it there, the radio would come on.

 

It eventually occurred to me that the switch was worn out, and so I replaced
it with a new one.  Voila, I now have an AUX function, and can now listen to
the radio at leisure without burning out the ignition circuits.  This
replacement switch also has the feature where you have to push the key in
slightly when simultaneously turning the key to the AUX position. 

 

Faithfully submitted,

 

Will Daehler

63 TR4

Powder Blue

 

 

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From dave at ranteer.com  Wed Sep 30 06:07:32 2020
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2020 07:07:32 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 Ignitions switch AUX vs.ON
In-Reply-To: <001f01d696a5$cfca9a20$6f5fce60$@gmail.com>
References: <001f01d696a5$cfca9a20$6f5fce60$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <002001d69722$475392f0$d5fab8d0$@ranteer.com>

We have battery cutoff switches on all our cars.  Given the dicey electrics
on these cars I think it's a pretty important thing to do.  Pretty much
every time we walk away from the car we disconnect it.

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Will Daehler
Sent: Tuesday, September 29, 2020 4:17 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR4 Ignitions switch AUX vs.ON

 

OK, I have in the past inadvertently left my key in the ON position. For
days and days.  The result was a burned out coil and points which I was
forced to replace before the car started again. This made me look hard and
long at my fifty year old ignition switch. Although there was a contact
available for AUX on the back of the switch, and it was certainly wired
correctly, there didn't seem to be a AUX key position. There appeared to be
only three positions, Start, On and Off. Three clicks, not four.  I was able
to create a momentary and intermittent AUX effect by twisting the key hard
to the left and firmly holding it there, the radio would come on.

 

It eventually occurred to me that the switch was worn out, and so I replaced
it with a new one.  Voila, I now have an AUX function, and can now listen to
the radio at leisure without burning out the ignition circuits.  This
replacement switch also has the feature where you have to push the key in
slightly when simultaneously turning the key to the AUX position. 

 

Faithfully submitted,

 

Will Daehler

63 TR4

Powder Blue

 

 

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From ptegler at verizon.net  Wed Sep 30 09:48:07 2020
From: ptegler at verizon.net (ptegler at verizon.net)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2020 15:48:07 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR4 Ignitions switch AUX vs.ON
In-Reply-To: <002001d69722$475392f0$d5fab8d0$@ranteer.com>
References: <001f01d696a5$cfca9a20$6f5fce60$@gmail.com>
 <002001d69722$475392f0$d5fab8d0$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <728441351.313648.1601480887600@mail.yahoo.com>


Here Here!In 2004 I had a dozen of so people in my garage, rebuilding 6-8 transmissions?in a group tech session. One fellow (without a tranny in hand) simply drove up in his Triumph for the day's event.? One question he posed during the day to those in attendance,? was what might be?draining?his battery when the car was just sitting for a week or so.
We all told him to just put a battery cut-off switch in to be safe, at least until he figured out his long standing battery issue.

Fast forward to? 2010? - 2012? time frame...we (our gang) get an email telling of the demise of his car and his exit from the hobby.? As the story goes, he heard a loud crack from the garage (attached). Upon opening the kitchen/garage door, he was met with thick acrid black smoke that instantly filled the kitchen/house.? both his Triumph and wife's SUV were engulfed in flames.? The smoke in the house was bad enough that it killed his two large?amazon?parrots. Needless to say building damage as well as the loss of two cherished pets and two motor vehicles was enough for the wife to say?"you're done! no more?cars!"


Now considering the design of these vehicles, there is quite an array of wiring that sits 'live' all the time,?many?unfused.? A little vibration and chaffing can easily reduce insulation thickness etc. Cracked and brittle jackets... the list goes on.

IT CAN NOT BE STATED UNEQUIVICABLY ENOUGH..... INSTALL A BATTERY CUT-OFF.
If for no other reason, the simplicity of?safely working on the car as needed,.... theft deterrent, etc.? 
If for a good reason,?peace of mind, and? the story above.? (yes true story above..from someone that DID 'have a clue' about what he was doing.)

ptegler


-----Original Message-----
From: dave <dave at ranteer.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, Sep 30, 2020 8:08 am
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Ignitions switch AUX vs.ON

#yiv3162272966 #yiv3162272966 -- _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv3162272966 #yiv3162272966 p.yiv3162272966MsoNormal, #yiv3162272966 li.yiv3162272966MsoNormal, #yiv3162272966 div.yiv3162272966MsoNormal {margin:0in;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv3162272966 span.yiv3162272966EmailStyle19 {font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv3162272966 .yiv3162272966MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered {}#yiv3162272966 div.yiv3162272966WordSection1 {}#yiv3162272966 
We have battery cutoff switches on all our cars.? Given the dicey electrics on these cars I think it?s a pretty important thing to do.? Pretty much every time we walk away from the car we disconnect it.

 ?

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Will Daehler
Sent: Tuesday, September 29, 2020 4:17 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR4 Ignitions switch AUX vs.ON

 ?

OK, I have in the past inadvertently left my key in the ON position. For days and days.? The result was a burned out coil and points which I was forced to replace before the car started again. This made me look hard and long at my fifty year old ignition switch. Although there was a contact available for AUX on the back of the switch, and it was certainly wired correctly, there didn?t seem to be a AUX key position. There appeared to be only three positions, Start, On and Off. Three clicks, not four. ?I was able to create a momentary and intermittent AUX effect by twisting the key hard to the left and firmly holding it there, the radio would come on.

 ?

It eventually occurred to me that the switch was worn out, and so I replaced it with a new one.? Voila, I now have an AUX function, and can now listen to the radio at leisure without burning out the ignition circuits. ?This replacement switch also has the feature where you have to push the key in slightly when simultaneously turning the key to the AUX position. 

 ?

Faithfully submitted,

 ?

Will Daehler

63 TR4

Powder Blue

 ?

 ?
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From dctr6 at optonline.net  Wed Sep 30 10:03:42 2020
From: dctr6 at optonline.net (dctr6 at optonline.net)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2020 12:03:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] Alternator not charging battery - 1976 TR6
Message-ID: <003301d69743$45b45ee0$d11d1ca0$@optonline.net>

   Here's a synopsis - Almost new battery went dead. Charged battery and
took car to shop. Meter shows alternator is not charging battery (only 12
volts, not 14.6 as per Dan Master's book). Buy rebuilt alternator and the
same thing happens.  Swap alternator for a second rebuilt unit - same thing,
battery is not being charged. Tried 3 different meters - all showed 12
volts.  Hard to believe I got 2 bad rebuilt alternators.  What's wrong??

Dennis Culligan, 1976 TR6 

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From trguy75 at gmail.com  Wed Sep 30 10:30:40 2020
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2020 12:30:40 -0400
Subject: [TR] Alternator not charging battery - 1976 TR6
In-Reply-To: <003301d69743$45b45ee0$d11d1ca0$@optonline.net>
References: <003301d69743$45b45ee0$d11d1ca0$@optonline.net>
Message-ID: <06b501d69747$09efc8f0$1dcf5ad0$@gmail.com>

Can't the parts place test the alternator off the car with their machine?
Jim Henningsen

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of
dctr6 at optonline.net
Sent: Wednesday, September 30, 2020 12:04 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Alternator not charging battery - 1976 TR6

 

   Here's a synopsis - Almost new battery went dead. Charged battery and
took car to shop. Meter shows alternator is not charging battery (only 12
volts, not 14.6 as per Dan Master's book). Buy rebuilt alternator and the
same thing happens.  Swap alternator for a second rebuilt unit - same thing,
battery is not being charged. Tried 3 different meters - all showed 12
volts.  Hard to believe I got 2 bad rebuilt alternators.  What's wrong??

Dennis Culligan, 1976 TR6 

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From elliottr at rmi.net  Wed Sep 30 11:22:15 2020
From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2020 12:22:15 -0500
Subject: [TR] Alternator not charging battery - 1976 TR6
In-Reply-To: <06b501d69747$09efc8f0$1dcf5ad0$@gmail.com>
References: <003301d69743$45b45ee0$d11d1ca0$@optonline.net>
 <06b501d69747$09efc8f0$1dcf5ad0$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7a864abb-049d-d669-c357-32dd4c2c8980@rmi.net>

Does the alternator light come on in your dash?


On 9/30/2020 11:30 AM, Jim Henningsen wrote:
>
> Can?t the parts place test the alternator off the car with their 
> machine?? Jim Henningsen
>
> *From:* Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of 
> *dctr6 at optonline.net
> *Sent:* Wednesday, September 30, 2020 12:04 PM
> *To:* triumphs at autox.team.net
> *Cc:* 6pack at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* [TR] Alternator not charging battery - 1976 TR6
>
> ?? Here?s a synopsis ? Almost new battery went dead. Charged battery 
> and took car to shop. Meter shows alternator is not charging battery 
> (only 12 volts, not 14.6 as per Dan Master?s book). Buy rebuilt 
> alternator and the same thing happens.? Swap alternator for a second 
> rebuilt unit ? same thing, battery is not being charged. Tried 3 
> different meters ? all showed 12 volts. ?Hard to believe I got 2 bad 
> rebuilt alternators.? What?s wrong??
>
> Dennis Culligan, 1976 TR6
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
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From agraham at execulink.com  Wed Sep 30 11:25:43 2020
From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2020 13:25:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR2 - coil recommend.
Message-ID: <0969cf0a-4613-2575-d859-8571b6eafdd0@execulink.com>

Hello List:

Have been using a 50+ year old Lucas Sport coil on my '2 for some time 
and realize I may be pressing my luck with this one. Looking for a 
recommendation for a replacement; will keep the old Sport as a "get me 
home" spare.

Understand the "new" Lucas Sports have had their share of premature 
failures. Also considered a Bosch "blue". Lots of after-market "super 
coils" from Pertronix & the like.

Any recommendations & good experiences out there?

Thanks!

Angelo Graham

'54 TR2


From dave at ranteer.com  Wed Sep 30 11:42:35 2020
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2020 12:42:35 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR2 - coil recommend.
In-Reply-To: <0969cf0a-4613-2575-d859-8571b6eafdd0@execulink.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.16.1601487757.3211.triumphs@autox.team.net>

Bosch blue and pertronix are both excellent choices
-------- Original message --------From: Angelo Graham <agraham at execulink.com> Date: 9/30/20  12:25 PM  (GMT-06:00) To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR2 - coil recommend. Hello List:Have been using a 50+ year old Lucas Sport coil on my '2 for some time and realize I may be pressing my luck with this one. Looking for a recommendation for a replacement; will keep the old Sport as a "get me home" spare.Understand the "new" Lucas Sports have had their share of premature failures. Also considered a Bosch "blue". Lots of after-market "super coils" from Pertronix & the like.Any recommendations & good experiences out there?Thanks!Angelo Graham'54 TR2** triumphs at autox.team.net **Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.htmlArchive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? http://www.team.net/archiveUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave at ranteer.com
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From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Wed Sep 30 11:54:32 2020
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2020 10:54:32 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR2 - coil recommend.
In-Reply-To: <0969cf0a-4613-2575-d859-8571b6eafdd0@execulink.com>
References: <0969cf0a-4613-2575-d859-8571b6eafdd0@execulink.com>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bHG912SZOFw255p1=ppNYP6z5pMFKMuqYoLJOay4LUn7A@mail.gmail.com>

I run a 50+ year old Lucas Sport coil on both my cars.  I also carry a
spare in each... those are also 50+year old Sport coils.

I have never had a vintage coil fail but did have a couple of nearly-new
coils let me down before I finally gave up on them.

On Wed, Sep 30, 2020, 10:30 AM Angelo Graham <agraham at execulink.com> wrote:

> Hello List:
>
> Have been using a 50+ year old Lucas Sport coil on my '2 for some time
> and realize I may be pressing my luck with this one. Looking for a
> recommendation for a replacement; will keep the old Sport as a "get me
> home" spare.
>
> Understand the "new" Lucas Sports have had their share of premature
> failures. Also considered a Bosch "blue". Lots of after-market "super
> coils" from Pertronix & the like.
>
> Any recommendations & good experiences out there?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Angelo Graham
>
> '54 TR2
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com
>
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From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Wed Sep 30 12:03:08 2020
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2020 11:03:08 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 Ignitions switch AUX vs.ON
In-Reply-To: <728441351.313648.1601480887600@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <001f01d696a5$cfca9a20$6f5fce60$@gmail.com>
 <002001d69722$475392f0$d5fab8d0$@ranteer.com>
 <728441351.313648.1601480887600@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bGSbDNqTsvMHj026AtzAwOMcVDUn0mJuK+SyxOiTQnFyg@mail.gmail.com>

X3 on disconnecting the battery when not in use.  I just leave the clamp
loose enough that I can pull it off.

"Now considering the design of these vehicles, there is quite an array of
wiring that sits 'live' all the time, many unfused."

That is why I have also installed fusible links on the brown wire and white
wire circuits.

Without those links the 'fuse' is your wiring loom.  If you ever smell one
burning... it is a scent that stays in your memory.

Geo



On Wed, Sep 30, 2020, 8:48 AM <ptegler at verizon.net> wrote:

>
> Here Here!
> In 2004 I had a dozen of so people in my garage, rebuilding 6-8
> transmissions in a group tech session. One fellow (without a tranny in
> hand) simply drove up in his Triumph for the day's event.  One question he
> posed during the day to those in attendance,  was what might
> be draining his battery when the car was just sitting for a week or so.
> We all told him to just put a battery cut-off switch in to be safe, at
> least until he figured out his long standing battery issue.
>
> Fast forward to  2010? - 2012? time frame...we (our gang) get an email
> telling of the demise of his car and his exit from the hobby.
> As the story goes, he heard a loud crack from the garage (attached). Upon
> opening the kitchen/garage door, he was met with thick acrid black smoke
> that instantly filled the kitchen/house.  both his Triumph and wife's SUV
> were engulfed in flames.  The smoke in the house was bad enough that it
> killed his two large amazon parrots. Needless to say building damage as
> well as the loss of two cherished pets and two motor vehicles was enough
> for the wife to say "you're done! no more cars!"
>
>
> Now considering the design of these vehicles, there is quite an array of
> wiring that sits 'live' all the time, many unfused.  A little vibration and
> chaffing can easily reduce insulation thickness etc. Cracked and brittle
> jackets... the list goes on.
>
> IT CAN NOT BE STATED UNEQUIVICABLY ENOUGH..... INSTALL A BATTERY CUT-OFF.
>
> If for no other reason, the simplicity of safely working on the car as
> needed,.... theft deterrent, etc.
> If for a good reason, peace of mind, and  the story above.  (yes true
> story above..from someone that DID 'have a clue' about what he was doing.)
>
> ptegler
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: dave <dave at ranteer.com>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Wed, Sep 30, 2020 8:08 am
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Ignitions switch AUX vs.ON
>
> We have battery cutoff switches on all our cars.  Given the dicey
> electrics on these cars I think it?s a pretty important thing to do.
> Pretty much every time we walk away from the car we disconnect it.
>
>
>
> *From:* Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Will
> Daehler
> *Sent:* Tuesday, September 29, 2020 4:17 PM
> *To:* triumphs at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* [TR] TR4 Ignitions switch AUX vs.ON
>
>
>
> OK, I have in the past inadvertently left my key in the ON position. For
> days and days.  The result was a burned out coil and points which I was
> forced to replace before the car started again. This made me look hard and
> long at my fifty year old ignition switch. Although there was a contact
> available for AUX on the back of the switch, and it was certainly wired
> correctly, there didn?t seem to be a AUX key position. There appeared to be
> only three positions, Start, On and Off. Three clicks, not four.  I was
> able to create a momentary and intermittent AUX effect by twisting the key
> hard to the left and firmly holding it there, the radio would come on.
>
>
>
> It eventually occurred to me that the switch was worn out, and so I
> replaced it with a new one.  Voila, I now have an AUX function, and can now
> listen to the radio at leisure without burning out the ignition circuits.
> This replacement switch also has the feature where you have to push the key
> in slightly when simultaneously turning the key to the AUX position.
>
>
>
> Faithfully submitted,
>
>
>
> Will Daehler
>
> 63 TR4
>
> Powder Blue
>
>
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com
>
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From auprichard at uprichard.net  Wed Sep 30 14:54:42 2020
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (auprichard at uprichard.net)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2020 16:54:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] Anybody need one of these?
Message-ID: <000001d6976b$ecad8d20$c608a760$@uprichard.net>

Cost of shipping only.  Let me know.

 

Andrew Uprichard

Jackson, Michigan

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From triumphstag at gmail.com  Wed Sep 30 15:00:58 2020
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2020 14:00:58 -0700
Subject: [TR] dashpot o ring for ZS 175 CD-2
Message-ID: <CANLCLaGo6xyY6m3ZSedOuVLcREEDrx-ysh8k2pXxqOZOQAMZ8A@mail.gmail.com>

I need to replace the dashpot O RIngs for the above mentioned carbs. . Does
anyone know the size? Are they available as a separate item?

Also, just noticed the spelling of these things can be:
carburetor (American English) or
carburettor (British English)
Carburetter (British alternative.)
Bloody confusing.

Sujit


-- 
Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California

https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
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From triumphstag at gmail.com  Wed Sep 30 15:10:28 2020
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2020 14:10:28 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR2 - coil recommend.
In-Reply-To: <CANzE1bHG912SZOFw255p1=ppNYP6z5pMFKMuqYoLJOay4LUn7A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <0969cf0a-4613-2575-d859-8571b6eafdd0@execulink.com>
 <CANzE1bHG912SZOFw255p1=ppNYP6z5pMFKMuqYoLJOay4LUn7A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANLCLaFcU6YGvPNkHRXERmR=hV0h1N39w2SgXNSB5dz6Pzo8iw@mail.gmail.com>

I'm not sure if the "2" uses a ballast resistors,
I just went through this with two Stags. One has Pertronix ignition, the
other lumenition. Lumenition requires you to keep the ballast setup.
Pertronix says to do away with the ballast, but instead of using a 3 ohm
coil, it says to use a 1.5 Ohm coil.
Based on this you need to get the matching coil for the ignition.
For the Lumenition setup I use the Bosch red (this coil needs a ballast and
is a 1.5 ohm / 1.8 ohm coil)
For the Pertronix I have a 1.5 ohm coil and no ballast.

Folks have said, if you have an original point setup without ballast, use a
3.0 ohm coil.
Hope this hasn't confused you
Sujit






On Wed, Sep 30, 2020 at 10:58 AM Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com> wrote:

> I run a 50+ year old Lucas Sport coil on both my cars.  I also carry a
> spare in each... those are also 50+year old Sport coils.
>
> I have never had a vintage coil fail but did have a couple of nearly-new
> coils let me down before I finally gave up on them.
>
> On Wed, Sep 30, 2020, 10:30 AM Angelo Graham <agraham at execulink.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Hello List:
>>
>> Have been using a 50+ year old Lucas Sport coil on my '2 for some time
>> and realize I may be pressing my luck with this one. Looking for a
>> recommendation for a replacement; will keep the old Sport as a "get me
>> home" spare.
>>
>> Understand the "new" Lucas Sports have had their share of premature
>> failures. Also considered a Bosch "blue". Lots of after-market "super
>> coils" from Pertronix & the like.
>>
>> Any recommendations & good experiences out there?
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Angelo Graham
>>
>> '54 TR2
>>
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com
>>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumphstag at gmail.com
>


-- 
Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California

https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
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From joemato at sbcglobal.net  Wed Sep 30 15:10:22 2020
From: joemato at sbcglobal.net (JOSEPH MATO)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2020 21:10:22 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 13, Issue 262
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1980.1601499302.3214.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.1980.1601499302.3214.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <1139754551.509762.1601500222733@mail.yahoo.com>

Battery Cutoff: I disconnect the battery if the car sits for any more than a week.
Joe Mato62 Wood RoadRedding, CT 06896917 232 1555 

    On Wednesday, September 30, 2020, 05:04:39 PM EDT, triumphs-request at autox.team.net <triumphs-request at autox.team.net> wrote:  
 
 Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to
??? triumphs at autox.team.net

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
??? http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
??? triumphs-request at autox.team.net

You can reach the person managing the list at
??? triumphs-owner at autox.team.net

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..."


Today's Topics:

? 1. Re: TR4 Ignitions switch AUX vs.ON (Geo Hahn)
? 2. Anybody need one of these? (auprichard at uprichard.net)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2020 11:03:08 -0700
From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com>
To: ptegler at verizon.net
Cc: dave <dave at ranteer.com>, Triumphs <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Ignitions switch AUX vs.ON
Message-ID:
??? <CANzE1bGSbDNqTsvMHj026AtzAwOMcVDUn0mJuK+SyxOiTQnFyg at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

X3 on disconnecting the battery when not in use.? I just leave the clamp
loose enough that I can pull it off.

"Now considering the design of these vehicles, there is quite an array of
wiring that sits 'live' all the time, many unfused."

That is why I have also installed fusible links on the brown wire and white
wire circuits.

Without those links the 'fuse' is your wiring loom.? If you ever smell one
burning... it is a scent that stays in your memory.

Geo



On Wed, Sep 30, 2020, 8:48 AM <ptegler at verizon.net> wrote:

>
> Here Here!
> In 2004 I had a dozen of so people in my garage, rebuilding 6-8
> transmissions in a group tech session. One fellow (without a tranny in
> hand) simply drove up in his Triumph for the day's event.? One question he
> posed during the day to those in attendance,? was what might
> be draining his battery when the car was just sitting for a week or so.
> We all told him to just put a battery cut-off switch in to be safe, at
> least until he figured out his long standing battery issue.
>
> Fast forward to? 2010? - 2012? time frame...we (our gang) get an email
> telling of the demise of his car and his exit from the hobby.
> As the story goes, he heard a loud crack from the garage (attached). Upon
> opening the kitchen/garage door, he was met with thick acrid black smoke
> that instantly filled the kitchen/house.? both his Triumph and wife's SUV
> were engulfed in flames.? The smoke in the house was bad enough that it
> killed his two large amazon parrots. Needless to say building damage as
> well as the loss of two cherished pets and two motor vehicles was enough
> for the wife to say "you're done! no more cars!"
>
>
> Now considering the design of these vehicles, there is quite an array of
> wiring that sits 'live' all the time, many unfused.? A little vibration and
> chaffing can easily reduce insulation thickness etc. Cracked and brittle
> jackets... the list goes on.
>
> IT CAN NOT BE STATED UNEQUIVICABLY ENOUGH..... INSTALL A BATTERY CUT-OFF.
>
> If for no other reason, the simplicity of safely working on the car as
> needed,.... theft deterrent, etc.
> If for a good reason, peace of mind, and? the story above.? (yes true
> story above..from someone that DID 'have a clue' about what he was doing.)
>
> ptegler
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: dave <dave at ranteer.com>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Wed, Sep 30, 2020 8:08 am
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Ignitions switch AUX vs.ON
>
> We have battery cutoff switches on all our cars.? Given the dicey
> electrics on these cars I think it?s a pretty important thing to do.
> Pretty much every time we walk away from the car we disconnect it.
>
>
>
> *From:* Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Will
> Daehler
> *Sent:* Tuesday, September 29, 2020 4:17 PM
> *To:* triumphs at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* [TR] TR4 Ignitions switch AUX vs.ON
>
>
>
> OK, I have in the past inadvertently left my key in the ON position. For
> days and days.? The result was a burned out coil and points which I was
> forced to replace before the car started again. This made me look hard and
> long at my fifty year old ignition switch. Although there was a contact
> available for AUX on the back of the switch, and it was certainly wired
> correctly, there didn?t seem to be a AUX key position. There appeared to be
> only three positions, Start, On and Off. Three clicks, not four.? I was
> able to create a momentary and intermittent AUX effect by twisting the key
> hard to the left and firmly holding it there, the radio would come on.
>
>
>
> It eventually occurred to me that the switch was worn out, and so I
> replaced it with a new one.? Voila, I now have an AUX function, and can now
> listen to the radio at leisure without burning out the ignition circuits.
> This replacement switch also has the feature where you have to push the key
> in slightly when simultaneously turning the key to the AUX position.
>
>
>
> Faithfully submitted,
>
>
>
> Will Daehler
>
> 63 TR4
>
> Powder Blue
>
>
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com
>
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------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2020 16:54:42 -0400
From: <auprichard at uprichard.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>,??? <6-pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Anybody need one of these?
Message-ID: <000001d6976b$ecad8d20$c608a760$@uprichard.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Cost of shipping only.? Let me know.

 

Andrew Uprichard

Jackson, Michigan

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------------------------------

Subject: Digest Footer

_______________________________________________

Triumphs mailing list
Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


------------------------------

End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 13, Issue 262
*****************************************
  
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From dctr6 at optonline.net  Wed Sep 30 15:13:20 2020
From: dctr6 at optonline.net (dctr6 at optonline.net)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2020 17:13:20 -0400
Subject: [TR] Alternator not charging battery - 1976 TR6
In-Reply-To: <06b501d69747$09efc8f0$1dcf5ad0$@gmail.com>
References: <003301d69743$45b45ee0$d11d1ca0$@optonline.net>
 <06b501d69747$09efc8f0$1dcf5ad0$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000f01d6976e$86cb5e80$94621b80$@optonline.net>

Actually, no they don't have the facilities.  However, I have taken the 2nd
alternator to a local auto electric shop where they tested it and it's only
putting out a little over 13 volts which I do not believe is enough.  I plan
to retrieve my original alternator and have it re-built (which I should have
done in the first place).

Dennis

 

From: Jim Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com> 
Sent: Wednesday, September 30, 2020 12:31 PM
To: dctr6 at optonline.net; triumphs at autox.team.net
Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] Alternator not charging battery - 1976 TR6

 

Can't the parts place test the alternator off the car with their machine?
Jim Henningsen

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
<mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of dctr6 at optonline.net
<mailto:dctr6 at optonline.net> 
Sent: Wednesday, September 30, 2020 12:04 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net <mailto:6pack at autox.team.net> 
Subject: [TR] Alternator not charging battery - 1976 TR6

 

   Here's a synopsis - Almost new battery went dead. Charged battery and
took car to shop. Meter shows alternator is not charging battery (only 12
volts, not 14.6 as per Dan Master's book). Buy rebuilt alternator and the
same thing happens.  Swap alternator for a second rebuilt unit - same thing,
battery is not being charged. Tried 3 different meters - all showed 12
volts.  Hard to believe I got 2 bad rebuilt alternators.  What's wrong??

Dennis Culligan, 1976 TR6 

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From dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Sep 30 15:25:22 2020
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2020 21:25:22 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] dashpot o ring for ZS 175 CD-2
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaGo6xyY6m3ZSedOuVLcREEDrx-ysh8k2pXxqOZOQAMZ8A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaGo6xyY6m3ZSedOuVLcREEDrx-ysh8k2pXxqOZOQAMZ8A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <541310854.477943.1601501122348@mail.yahoo.com>

 You need more than just the size.? It needs to be made of a material that will tolerate oil and gasoline. er... petrol.? 

Moss sells them and if you buy these you take care of both issues at one time.
https://mossmotors.com/o-ring-leak-free-replacement?assoc=81827
BTW: carburateur - French
carburador - Spanish

carburatore - Italian
 Vergaser - german
f?rgasare - Swedish
????????? - Hindi (probably won't transmit through the innertron)

But the gas don't care.

Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com>
To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>; TTSCC at googlegroups.com
Sent: Wed, Sep 30, 2020 4:00 pm
Subject: [TR] dashpot o ring for ZS 175 CD-2

I need to replace?the dashpot O RIngs for the above mentioned carbs. . Does anyone know the size? Are they available as a separate item?
Also, just noticed the spelling of these things can be:carburetor (American English) or?carburettor (British English)Carburetter (British alternative.)
Bloody confusing.?
Sujit

-- 
Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California
https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Sep 30 15:31:07 2020
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2020 21:31:07 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Alternator not charging battery - 1976 TR6
In-Reply-To: <003301d69743$45b45ee0$d11d1ca0$@optonline.net>
References: <003301d69743$45b45ee0$d11d1ca0$@optonline.net>
Message-ID: <1489962119.475999.1601501467775@mail.yahoo.com>

 On the 76 TR6 (well all the CF series cars) the alternator output (brown) wire connects to the power tap on the positive battery positive cable with a 3/8 QC connector.? If this connector is not making good connection even a good alternator will not charge the battery.? Check that out before you spend any more money.
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: dctr6 at optonline.net
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, Sep 30, 2020 11:03 am
Subject: [TR] Alternator not charging battery - 1976 TR6

<!--#yiv9047746190 _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv9047746190 #yiv9047746190 p.yiv9047746190MsoNormal, #yiv9047746190 li.yiv9047746190MsoNormal, #yiv9047746190 div.yiv9047746190MsoNormal {margin:0in;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;}#yiv9047746190 span.yiv9047746190EmailStyle17 {font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv9047746190 .yiv9047746190MsoChpDefault {font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;} _filtered {}#yiv9047746190 div.yiv9047746190WordSection1 {}-->?? Here?s a synopsis ? Almost new battery went dead. Charged battery and took car to shop. Meter shows alternator is not charging battery (only 12 volts, not 14.6 as per Dan Master?s book). Buy rebuilt alternator and the same thing happens.? Swap alternator for a second rebuilt unit ? same thing, battery is not being charged. Tried 3 different meters ? all showed 12 volts. ?Hard to believe I got 2 bad rebuilt alternators.? What?s wrong??Dennis Culligan, 1976 TR6 ** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From aljlthomson at charter.net  Wed Sep 30 15:36:09 2020
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2020 17:36:09 -0400
Subject: [TR] dashpot o ring for ZS 175 CD-2
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaGo6xyY6m3ZSedOuVLcREEDrx-ysh8k2pXxqOZOQAMZ8A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaGo6xyY6m3ZSedOuVLcREEDrx-ysh8k2pXxqOZOQAMZ8A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <009401d69771$b608d8a0$221a89e0$@charter.net>

Call Joe Curto.

 

https://www.britishsuperior.com/

 

 

Alex Thomson

 

 

From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Sujit Roy
Sent: Wednesday, September 30, 2020 5:01 PM
To: Triumphs; TTSCC at googlegroups.com
Subject: [TR] dashpot o ring for ZS 175 CD-2

 

I need to replace the dashpot O RIngs for the above mentioned carbs. . Does anyone know the size? Are they available as a separate item?

 

Also, just noticed the spelling of these things can be:

carburetor (American English) or 

carburettor (British English)

Carburetter (British alternative.)

Bloody confusing. 

 

Sujit




 

-- 

Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California


https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/

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From dave at ranteer.com  Wed Sep 30 16:00:07 2020
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2020 17:00:07 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR2 - coil recommend.
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaFcU6YGvPNkHRXERmR=hV0h1N39w2SgXNSB5dz6Pzo8iw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <0969cf0a-4613-2575-d859-8571b6eafdd0@execulink.com>
 <CANzE1bHG912SZOFw255p1=ppNYP6z5pMFKMuqYoLJOay4LUn7A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CANLCLaFcU6YGvPNkHRXERmR=hV0h1N39w2SgXNSB5dz6Pzo8iw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <008301d69775$0f8cc5a0$2ea650e0$@ranteer.com>

TR2 does NOT use a ballast

 

Needs a 3.0 ohm coil

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Sujit Roy
Sent: Wednesday, September 30, 2020 4:10 PM
To: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR2 - coil recommend.

 

I'm not sure if the "2" uses a ballast resistors,  

I just went through this with two Stags. One has Pertronix ignition, the other lumenition. Lumenition requires you to keep the ballast setup. Pertronix says to do away with the ballast, but instead of using a 3 ohm coil, it says to use a 1.5 Ohm coil.

Based on this you need to get the matching coil for the ignition.

For the Lumenition setup I use the Bosch red (this coil needs a ballast and is a 1.5 ohm / 1.8 ohm coil)

For the Pertronix I have a 1.5 ohm coil and no ballast. 

 

Folks have said, if you have an original point setup without ballast, use a 3.0 ohm coil.

Hope this hasn't confused you

Sujit

 

 

 

 

 

 

On Wed, Sep 30, 2020 at 10:58 AM Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com <mailto:ahwahneetr at gmail.com> > wrote:

I run a 50+ year old Lucas Sport coil on both my cars.  I also carry a spare in each... those are also 50+year old Sport coils.

 

I have never had a vintage coil fail but did have a couple of nearly-new coils let me down before I finally gave up on them.

 

On Wed, Sep 30, 2020, 10:30 AM Angelo Graham <agraham at execulink.com <mailto:agraham at execulink.com> > wrote:

Hello List:

Have been using a 50+ year old Lucas Sport coil on my '2 for some time 
and realize I may be pressing my luck with this one. Looking for a 
recommendation for a replacement; will keep the old Sport as a "get me 
home" spare.

Understand the "new" Lucas Sports have had their share of premature 
failures. Also considered a Bosch "blue". Lots of after-market "super 
coils" from Pertronix & the like.

Any recommendations & good experiences out there?

Thanks!

Angelo Graham

'54 TR2

** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>  **

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-- 

Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California


https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/

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From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Wed Sep 30 17:36:25 2020
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2020 23:36:25 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Anybody need one of these?
In-Reply-To: <000001d6976b$ecad8d20$c608a760$@uprichard.net>
References: <000001d6976b$ecad8d20$c608a760$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <1072793923.527054.1601508985469@mail.yahoo.com>

 id very much like to have a need
frank
    On Wednesday, September 30, 2020, 02:00:53 PM PDT, <auprichard at uprichard.net> wrote:  
 
 
Cost of shipping only.? Let me know.

 ?

Andrew Uprichard

Jackson, Michigan
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From bk13 at earthlink.net  Wed Sep 30 18:01:47 2020
From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2020 17:01:47 -0700
Subject: [TR] Alternator not charging battery - 1976 TR6
In-Reply-To: <1489962119.475999.1601501467775@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <003301d69743$45b45ee0$d11d1ca0$@optonline.net>
 <1489962119.475999.1601501467775@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <7965bc9f-2f22-079a-0c86-d19157853640@earthlink.net>

I second checking the wires.? Had a problem on a weekend road trip where 
one of the smaller wires in the plug that goes into the alternator 
broke.? Not fun trying to pry out the connector from the plug and 
uncrimp it with minimal tools.? With the car at home, give each wire a 
tug to make sure they are all secure.

As to rebuilds, I don't have faith is most rebuilders.? My rebuilt TR6 
starter lasted a full week before failing.? I think they are just out 
for a quick turn.

Brian

On 9/30/2020 2:31 PM, DAVID MASSEY wrote:
> On the 76 TR6 (well all the CF series cars) the alternator output 
> (brown) wire connects to the power tap on the positive battery 
> positive cable with a 3/8 QC connector.? If this connector is not 
> making good connection even a good alternator will not charge the 
> battery.? Check that out before you spend any more money.
>
> Dave
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: dctr6 at optonline.net
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Sent: Wed, Sep 30, 2020 11:03 am
> Subject: [TR] Alternator not charging battery - 1976 TR6
>
> ?? Here?s a synopsis ? Almost new battery went dead. Charged battery 
> and took car to shop. Meter shows alternator is not charging battery 
> (only 12 volts, not 14.6 as per Dan Master?s book). Buy rebuilt 
> alternator and the same thing happens.? Swap alternator for a second 
> rebuilt unit ? same thing, battery is not being charged. Tried 3 
> different meters ? all showed 12 volts. ?Hard to believe I got 2 bad 
> rebuilt alternators.? What?s wrong??
> Dennis Culligan, 1976 TR6
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs 
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From grglmn at gmail.com  Wed Sep 30 18:37:34 2020
From: grglmn at gmail.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2020 19:37:34 -0500
Subject: [TR] Alternator not charging battery - 1976 TR6
In-Reply-To: <7965bc9f-2f22-079a-0c86-d19157853640@earthlink.net>
References: <003301d69743$45b45ee0$d11d1ca0$@optonline.net>
 <1489962119.475999.1601501467775@mail.yahoo.com>
 <7965bc9f-2f22-079a-0c86-d19157853640@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <CAFtw3aYiRi=jJci-7zW2xHa5b7kLf=f97qF_hJEgAFCxcqz8ng@mail.gmail.com>

I will third checking the wires, I had a known good alternator and tried a
couple different voltage regulators (early Lucas with external regulator)
before I figured out the plug was broken, and one of the wires just pushed
out instead of pushing on.

Greg Lemon
TR250


On Wed, Sep 30, 2020, 7:02 PM Brian Kemp <bk13 at earthlink.net> wrote:

> I second checking the wires.  Had a problem on a weekend road trip where
> one of the smaller wires in the plug that goes into the alternator broke.
> Not fun trying to pry out the connector from the plug and uncrimp it with
> minimal tools.  With the car at home, give each wire a tug to make sure
> they are all secure.
>
> As to rebuilds, I don't have faith is most rebuilders.  My rebuilt TR6
> starter lasted a full week before failing.  I think they are just out for a
> quick turn.
>
> Brian
>
> On 9/30/2020 2:31 PM, DAVID MASSEY wrote:
>
> On the 76 TR6 (well all the CF series cars) the alternator output (brown)
> wire connects to the power tap on the positive battery positive cable
> with a 3/8 QC connector.  If this connector is not making good connection
> even a good alternator will not charge the battery.  Check that out before
> you spend any more money.
>
> Dave
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: dctr6 at optonline.net
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Sent: Wed, Sep 30, 2020 11:03 am
> Subject: [TR] Alternator not charging battery - 1976 TR6
>
>    Here?s a synopsis ? Almost new battery went dead. Charged battery and
> took car to shop. Meter shows alternator is not charging battery (only 12
> volts, not 14.6 as per Dan Master?s book). Buy rebuilt alternator and the
> same thing happens.  Swap alternator for a second rebuilt unit ? same
> thing, battery is not being charged. Tried 3 different meters ? all showed
> 12 volts.  Hard to believe I got 2 bad rebuilt alternators.  What?s wrong??
> Dennis Culligan, 1976 TR6
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
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>
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>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From stan at redtr6.com  Wed Sep 30 18:45:24 2020
From: stan at redtr6.com (Stan Foster)
Date: Thu, 1 Oct 2020 00:45:24 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR2 - coil recommend.
In-Reply-To: <0969cf0a-4613-2575-d859-8571b6eafdd0@execulink.com>
References: <0969cf0a-4613-2575-d859-8571b6eafdd0@execulink.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR05MB698957AC8404175419034DDEFE300@MN2PR05MB6989.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>

I put a new Lucas 12v sport coil in my TR6 in 1990 and it is still working. I put a new Lucas 12v sport coil in my TR3a in 2016 and that is still working. I keep a spare in both cars though. The Interweb has a lot of sad stories about when good coils go bad. 

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Angelo Graham
Sent: Wednesday, September 30, 2020 1:26 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR2 - coil recommend.

Hello List:

Have been using a 50+ year old Lucas Sport coil on my '2 for some time and realize I may be pressing my luck with this one. Looking for a recommendation for a replacement; will keep the old Sport as a "get me home" spare.

Understand the "new" Lucas Sports have had their share of premature failures. Also considered a Bosch "blue". Lots of after-market "super coils" from Pertronix & the like.

Any recommendations & good experiences out there?

Thanks!

Angelo Graham

'54 TR2

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From bk13 at earthlink.net  Wed Sep 30 19:00:27 2020
From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2020 18:00:27 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 Ignitions switch AUX vs.ON
In-Reply-To: <CANzE1bGSbDNqTsvMHj026AtzAwOMcVDUn0mJuK+SyxOiTQnFyg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <001f01d696a5$cfca9a20$6f5fce60$@gmail.com>
 <002001d69722$475392f0$d5fab8d0$@ranteer.com>
 <728441351.313648.1601480887600@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CANzE1bGSbDNqTsvMHj026AtzAwOMcVDUn0mJuK+SyxOiTQnFyg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <f00b1f51-a205-145c-97c0-55f016618659@earthlink.net>

If anyone does not know what a battery disconnect is, here is a sample:
https://www.harborfreight.com/battery-disconnect-switch-97853.html

It goes on the negative post and the cable then connects to the switch.? 
Unscrew the know a little and you disconnect the circuit. Take it all 
the way out and you now have a theft deterrent to the casual car thief.

My TR6 has a slow drain - about a month before the battery gets too low 
without the disconnect.? My GT6 is only good for less than a week 
without the disconnect.

Highly recommend adding one to your old cars.

Brian

On 9/30/2020 11:03 AM, Geo Hahn wrote:
> X3 on disconnecting the battery when not in use.? I just leave the 
> clamp loose enough that I can pull it off.
>
> "Now considering the design of these vehicles, there is quite an array 
> of wiring that sits 'live' all the time,?many?unfused."
>
> That is why I have also installed fusible links on the brown wire and 
> white wire circuits.
>
> Without those links the 'fuse' is your wiring loom.? If you ever smell 
> one burning... it is a scent that stays in your memory.
>
> Geo
>
>
>
> On Wed, Sep 30, 2020, 8:48 AM <ptegler at verizon.net 
> <mailto:ptegler at verizon.net>> wrote:
>
>
>     Here Here!
>     In 2004 I had a dozen of so people in my garage, rebuilding 6-8
>     transmissions?in a group tech session. One fellow (without a
>     tranny in hand) simply drove up in his Triumph for the day's
>     event.? One question he posed during the day to those in
>     attendance,? was what might be?draining?his battery when the car
>     was just sitting for a week or so.
>     We all told him to just put a battery cut-off switch in to be
>     safe, at least until he figured out his long standing battery issue.
>
>     Fast forward to? 2010? - 2012? time frame...we (our gang) get an
>     email telling of the demise of his car and his exit from the hobby.
>     As the story goes, he heard a loud crack from the garage
>     (attached). Upon opening the kitchen/garage door, he was met with
>     thick acrid black smoke that instantly filled the kitchen/house.?
>     both his Triumph and wife's SUV were engulfed in flames.? The
>     smoke in the house was bad enough that it killed his two
>     large?amazon?parrots. Needless to say building damage as well as
>     the loss of two cherished pets and two motor vehicles was enough
>     for the wife to say?"you're done! no more?cars!"
>
>
>     Now considering the design of these vehicles, there is quite an
>     array of wiring that sits 'live' all the time,?many?unfused.? A
>     little vibration and chaffing can easily reduce insulation
>     thickness etc. Cracked and brittle jackets... the list goes on.
>
>     IT CAN NOT BE STATED UNEQUIVICABLY ENOUGH..... INSTALL A BATTERY
>     CUT-OFF.
>
>     If for no other reason, the simplicity of?safely working on the
>     car as needed,.... theft deterrent, etc.
>     If for a good reason,?peace of mind, and? the story above.? (yes
>     true story above..from someone that DID 'have a clue' about what
>     he was doing.)
>
>     ptegler
>
>
>     -----Original Message-----
>     From: dave <dave at ranteer.com <mailto:dave at ranteer.com>>
>     To: triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>
>     Sent: Wed, Sep 30, 2020 8:08 am
>     Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Ignitions switch AUX vs.ON
>
>     We have battery cutoff switches on all our cars.? Given the dicey
>     electrics on these cars I think it?s a pretty important thing to
>     do. Pretty much every time we walk away from the car we disconnect it.
>
>     *From:* Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
>     <mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net>> *On Behalf Of *Will Daehler
>     *Sent:* Tuesday, September 29, 2020 4:17 PM
>     *To:* triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>
>     *Subject:* [TR] TR4 Ignitions switch AUX vs.ON
>
>     OK, I have in the past inadvertently left my key in the ON
>     position. For days and days. The result was a burned out coil and
>     points which I was forced to replace before the car started again.
>     This made me look hard and long at my fifty year old ignition
>     switch. Although there was a contact available for AUX on the back
>     of the switch, and it was certainly wired correctly, there didn?t
>     seem to be a AUX key position. There appeared to be only three
>     positions, Start, On and Off. Three clicks, not four.? I was able
>     to create a momentary and intermittent AUX effect by twisting the
>     key hard to the left and firmly holding it there, the radio would
>     come on.
>
>     It eventually occurred to me that the switch was worn out, and so
>     I replaced it with a new one.? Voila, I now have an AUX function,
>     and can now listen to the radio at leisure without burning out the
>     ignition circuits.? This replacement switch also has the feature
>     where you have to push the key in slightly when simultaneously
>     turning the key to the AUX position.
>
>     Faithfully submitted,
>
>     Will Daehler
>
>     63 TR4
>
>     Powder Blue
>
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From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Wed Sep 30 19:30:12 2020
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2020 18:30:12 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 Ignitions switch AUX vs.ON
In-Reply-To: <f00b1f51-a205-145c-97c0-55f016618659@earthlink.net>
References: <001f01d696a5$cfca9a20$6f5fce60$@gmail.com>
 <002001d69722$475392f0$d5fab8d0$@ranteer.com>
 <728441351.313648.1601480887600@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CANzE1bGSbDNqTsvMHj026AtzAwOMcVDUn0mJuK+SyxOiTQnFyg@mail.gmail.com>
 <f00b1f51-a205-145c-97c0-55f016618659@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bGxMJg7V_gGtO9K4E0h=zk_TZDQHFfTfGPWiAcy4OPTeQ@mail.gmail.com>

On Wed, Sep 30, 2020 at 6:01 PM Brian Kemp <bk13 at earthlink.net> wrote:

If anyone does not know what a battery disconnect is, here is a sample:
> https://www.harborfreight.com/battery-disconnect-switch-97853.html
>
> It goes on the negative post and the cable then connects to the switch....
>

Probably more accurate to say 'it goes on the ground post' since Will has a
TR4.

The problem there is that the positive post (ground on a TR4) is larger so
the switch has to be spread quite a bit to fit over it.  Works, but barely:

[image: Cut Off Switch.JPG]

Geo
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