[TR] [6pack] Master Cylinder Rebuild

Sun May 17 11:58:51 MDT 2020

Why bother to rebuild an old one when new ones are available?  I like the
finish on the original Girling master cylinders, and I trust a
brass-sleeved original more than a modern Chinese knockoff.  The price for
something I'll likely do once in my life isn't a big consideration.  That
my car still has the master cylinders it was build with makes me happy.

But Standard-Triumph always appealed to "frugal" owners, so I get that a
simple drop-in chinesium replica will be attractive to many owners.

On Sun, May 17, 2020 at 11:46 AM DAVE HOGYE <dlhogye at comcast.net> wrote:

> If a new master cylinder is available, why bother with trying to rebuild
> an old one? I know that a rebuild kit is just a few dollars, but sending it
> off to have it rebuilt adds a lot to the cost.  I have never rebuilt a
> master that was available new.  Time is money and bent panels and paint
> repair are too, beside being dangerous.  I learned very early in my
> mechanic learning to renew the brake fluid at least on an annual basis.
> This saves components from failure and adds long life to them.  Wilwood and
> others make excellent replacement masters for the TR3 and they are at the
> most $80 new.  At this cost, it does not make sense to rebuild one.  I
> understand the TR6 has a different style master and may be more costly.
> Good luck for good brakes.
> Dave H.
>
> On May 17, 2020 at 6:44 AM Robert Rochlin <rrochlin at comcast.net> wrote:
>
> Hi Richard,
> I sent my m/c off to a reputable (I thought ) rebuilder for a complete
> rebuild and installed it back installed it in the TR6.  As I recall it
> worked fine for a short time and then on day I was puling out of the garage
> and the brakes totally failed.  The TR6 rolled int my P/U truck dented the
> door, and pushed in the front o the Tr6 hood. A very expensive afternoon. I
> sent the m/c back to the rebuilder as I had time to kill while the body
> shop fixed the TR6.  They rebuilt the m/c again gratis and I reinstalled
> it.  After about 8 months the m/c started to fail again, but slowly… I
> replaced it with a new Girling and it has gone several seasons working fine
> but now I’m getting the slow sinking pedal. Before replacing it again I am
> going to replace the seals myself.
>   Although I’ve had good luck with several rebuilt components including
> starters, carburetors, shocks, and distributers,  I’ll never send a master
> cylinder to a rebuilder again.
> Best,
> Bob
>
> On May 17, 2020, at 8:58 AM, Richard Lindsay < richardolindsay at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> Hello Bob, *et al.*,
>
>    Glad you're well. Here is south Texas we too are relaxing the
> stay-at-home order and the older people (like me) are beginning to venture
> out, if still maintaining safe separation. The 'younglings' seem to think
> an *All Clear* has been sounded and they're back face to face. I wish
> them luck.
>
>    I have had two, fresh from the box,  M/Cs fail then a third, working
> fine. I don't wish to directly name and disparage the vendor since they are
> always quite willing to make things right, but their name does grow on the
> 'north side of the tree'. The question I ponder and why I am writing is to
> ask is: How did your M/Cs fail?
>    In one of my unit's failures, fresh from the box, the front brake
> circuit worked fine (that's the one closer to the booster) but the rear
> brake circuit would flow no fluid. The second unit would flow no fluid
> through either circuit! The third M/C worked perfectly and still works
> great today!
>
>    Did I get two poorly or incorrectly rebuilt cylinders? Someone in China
> just make mistakes? Did I do something wrong? Thus I ask: How did your M/C
> "fail catastrophically?"
>
> -rick
>
> On Sun, May 17, 2020, 6:38 AM Robert Rochlin via 6pack <
> 6pack at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> I hope everyone is hanging in there and doing well in this time of
> quarantine.  It down’t look like here in Massachusetts the stay at home
> order will be  completely lifted for several of more weeks, but some
> business slowly are beginning to be be allowed to reopen.
>         I’ve had a checkered history with master cylinders. In the past
> I’ve sent m/c off to be rebuilt by reputable rebuilders only to have them
> catastrophically fail soon after reinstallation.  I’m figuring that I can
> improve on that record.  When I went to the Buckeye Triumph site to review
> the rebuild process the article recommended red grease.  I don’t have any,
> but I do have Volvo silicone breaks grease.  In the absence of red brake
> grease can I just apply brake fluid as lubricant to do the rebuild or
> should i bite the bullet and get the red brake grease.  About the only red
> grease I could fine was on Amazon and it was pretty pricey, $16.00 plus
> $8.00 shipping.
>         Any advice would be appreciated.
>         Best,
>         Bob
>         ’72 TR6
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