From carlsereda at aol.com Fri May 1 01:23:51 2020 From: carlsereda at aol.com (Carl Sereda) Date: Fri, 1 May 2020 07:23:51 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Re; TR4 tonneau 'strap snap' References: <806916827.300754.1588317831867.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <806916827.300754.1588317831867@mail.yahoo.com> Hi all,On 1963 TR4 CT22326 the tonneau 'strap snap' is located on propshaft cover, driver's side.. about 2.5" rearward from edge of cardboard transmission cover, and about 1.75" from topside.My car is stripped and can send photo if needed.. I have a feeling my snap is in the same location as Geo's very original TR4 (couldn't see his pictures).As mentioned it really helps to stabilize that section of your tonneau at speed. Regards,Carl'63TR4 since '74 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From trhouse at columbus.rr.com Fri May 1 04:54:36 2020 From: trhouse at columbus.rr.com (Tom Householder) Date: Fri, 1 May 2020 06:54:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] J Fray Badges Message-ID: Joseph Fray LTD made badges for the British cars amoung others. Somewhere along the line a magazine or club Newsletter did an article on this company that described their Manufacturing process. I?m sure I saved it but may have been digital and lost on an old computer. Would like to find again if anyone can help Tom From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Fri May 1 06:18:21 2020 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Fri, 1 May 2020 08:18:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] IRS rear axles and converted Corvair rear hubs Message-ID: <63B38A97A5A7446386CE3E7DBD8431BA@VlackTK121647> I have a set of upgraded Goodparts iRS rear axles (U-Joint style) assembled to modified Corvair hubs made by Marty Sukey that I don?t need any longer. I?d like them to go to someone who might need them. They are in excellent condition. I replaced them on my 4A when I converted to the R-200 diff and Goodparts CV axles. I also have a pair of modified 4A trailing arms (they are different than TR6 trailing arms, not sure what 250?s used) for these axles with Keensert inserts installed for the 6 hub mounting studs. Make me an offer if interested. Will consider selling axles and hubs separately. Note, if interested for a TR6 you must modify your trailing arms for U-joint clearance. The 4A trailing arms have a different bump stop arrangement and will not work on a TR6. Regards, JVV -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave at ranteer.com Fri May 1 09:19:43 2020 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Fri, 1 May 2020 10:19:43 -0500 Subject: [TR] FW: part needed References: <000a01d61f29$918e7180$b4ab5480$@ranteer.com> <368401027.149708.1588288919993@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <009601d61fcb$f15770b0$d4065210$@ranteer.com> We are in need of this part, new or used. Can anyone help me? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 19677 bytes Desc: not available URL: From alistair.hewitt at gmail.com Fri May 1 09:35:09 2020 From: alistair.hewitt at gmail.com (Alistair Hewitt) Date: Fri, 01 May 2020 10:35:09 -0500 Subject: [TR] FW: part needed In-Reply-To: <009601d61fcb$f15770b0$d4065210$@ranteer.com> Message-ID: An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 19677 bytes Desc: not available URL: From notakitcar at yahoo.com Fri May 1 10:27:13 2020 From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher) Date: Fri, 1 May 2020 11:27:13 -0500 Subject: [TR] FW: part needed In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: One on eBay-US now, only $175. ? Stay Home, Wash Your Hands. On May 1, 2020, at 10:35 AM, Alistair Hewitt wrote: ? They pop up occasionally for sensible prices on eBay co uk. I bought one a couple of weeks ago, NOS and even in the BL box for about $30. Shipping was expensive, so I sent it to my sister in England. Not really a rush for me to have it - I will pick it us when I visit (though who knows when that might be!). I set up an automatic search for the part number and when it was listed for a sensible buy it now price I bought it right away. Missed another one just the week before because I waited to check the picture matched the one in the car. Sent from my BlackBerry - the most secure mobile device From: dave at ranteer.com Sent: May 1, 2020 10:19 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] FW: part needed We are in need of this part, new or used. Can anyone help me? ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From notakitcar at yahoo.com Fri May 1 10:27:13 2020 From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher) Date: Fri, 1 May 2020 11:27:13 -0500 Subject: [TR] FW: part needed In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: One on eBay-US now, only $175. ? Stay Home, Wash Your Hands. On May 1, 2020, at 10:35 AM, Alistair Hewitt wrote: ? They pop up occasionally for sensible prices on eBay co uk. I bought one a couple of weeks ago, NOS and even in the BL box for about $30. Shipping was expensive, so I sent it to my sister in England. Not really a rush for me to have it - I will pick it us when I visit (though who knows when that might be!). I set up an automatic search for the part number and when it was listed for a sensible buy it now price I bought it right away. Missed another one just the week before because I waited to check the picture matched the one in the car. Sent from my BlackBerry - the most secure mobile device From: dave at ranteer.com Sent: May 1, 2020 10:19 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] FW: part needed We are in need of this part, new or used. Can anyone help me? ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fishplate at gmail.com Fri May 1 18:54:30 2020 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Fri, 1 May 2020 20:54:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] Shakespeare and Triumphs DO mix In-Reply-To: <850023501.1540945.1588193373949@connect.xfinity.com> References: <850023501.1540945.1588193373949@connect.xfinity.com> Message-ID: On Wed, Apr 29, 2020 at 4:52 PM TERRY SMITH wrote: > > Top tier 21 year old student that I was, I kept my eyes dutifully on the > buxom...I mean...stage. > You're not royalty, are you? "the play's the thing wherein I'll catch the conscience of the king," -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bk13 at earthlink.net Fri May 1 23:01:05 2020 From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp) Date: Fri, 1 May 2020 22:01:05 -0700 (GMT-07:00) Subject: [TR] FW: part needed Message-ID: <1876104234.12134.1588395665598@wamui-agami.atl.sa.earthlink.net> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From don.hiscock at gmail.com Fri May 1 23:09:55 2020 From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Sat, 2 May 2020 00:09:55 -0500 Subject: [TR] FW: part needed In-Reply-To: <009601d61fcb$f15770b0$d4065210$@ranteer.com> References: <000a01d61f29$918e7180$b4ab5480$@ranteer.com> <368401027.149708.1588288919993@mail.yahoo.com> <009601d61fcb$f15770b0$d4065210$@ranteer.com> Message-ID: Holden Vintage and Classic (UK) has several variants. Here?s one that is almost exactly like the one that was put on my TR3B in the day. https://www.holden.co.uk/p/manual_washer_pump On Friday, May 1, 2020, dave wrote: > We are in need of this part, new or used. Can anyone help me? > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 19677 bytes Desc: not available URL: From auprichard at uprichard.net Wed May 6 08:25:26 2020 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (andrew uprichard) Date: Wed, 6 May 2020 10:25:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] Randall Young Message-ID: <003f01d623b2$30bf1bb0$923d5310$@uprichard.net> Anyone heard from Randall recently? Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rbtr3a at cox.net Wed May 6 08:46:53 2020 From: rbtr3a at cox.net (Ronnie Babbitt) Date: Wed, 6 May 2020 10:46:53 -0400 Subject: [TR] Randall Young In-Reply-To: <003f01d623b2$30bf1bb0$923d5310$@uprichard.net> References: <003f01d623b2$30bf1bb0$923d5310$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: Funny you mention it. I was thinking of him the other day when I had some electrical questions. Ronnie > On May 6, 2020, at 10:25 AM, andrew uprichard wrote: > > ? > Anyone heard from Randall recently? > > Andrew Uprichard > Jackson, Michigan > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rbtr3a at cox.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mark at bradakis.com Wed May 6 08:52:43 2020 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Wed, 6 May 2020 08:52:43 -0600 Subject: [TR] Randall Young In-Reply-To: <003f01d623b2$30bf1bb0$923d5310$@uprichard.net> References: <003f01d623b2$30bf1bb0$923d5310$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <928ca226-952e-5223-0ff3-23708e4f7ac6@bradakis.com> On 5/6/20 8:25 AM, andrew uprichard wrote: > > Anyone heard from Randall recently? > He's around, used the donate link to show some appreciation for the lists, so obviously still enjoying them. mjb. From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Wed May 6 08:56:24 2020 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Wed, 6 May 2020 07:56:24 -0700 Subject: [TR] Randall Young In-Reply-To: <003f01d623b2$30bf1bb0$923d5310$@uprichard.net> References: <003f01d623b2$30bf1bb0$923d5310$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: Andrew - He logged into the TR Experience as recently as 4/28 (one week ago): [image: image.png] Yeah, I also worry about anyone I stop hearing from. Geo On Wed, May 6, 2020 at 7:25 AM andrew uprichard wrote: > Anyone heard from Randall recently? > > > > Andrew Uprichard > > Jackson, Michigan > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 799102 bytes Desc: not available URL: From mmarr at albiontechnical.com Wed May 6 09:34:26 2020 From: mmarr at albiontechnical.com (Michael Marr) Date: Wed, 6 May 2020 15:34:26 +0000 Subject: [TR] Randall Young In-Reply-To: <003f01d623b2$30bf1bb0$923d5310$@uprichard.net> References: <003f01d623b2$30bf1bb0$923d5310$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <1795BCEC-0536-4B20-BC76-65D336819E38@albiontechnical.com> He posted some comments on high torque starters a few weeks ago, I seem to remember. Mike Michael Marr Mobile: 630-202-0065 Sent from my iPad On May 6, 2020, at 09:26, andrew uprichard > wrote: Anyone heard from Randall recently? Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=ZqpgoFlsOO1My4Qw6qZob2q_1o59tGPKiLmHIbHQl-Q&s=GsP8oKpSwHWiCNvBsnonFJT4X2va11i115nllpz_9e4&e= Archive: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_pipermail_triumphs&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=ZqpgoFlsOO1My4Qw6qZob2q_1o59tGPKiLmHIbHQl-Q&s=Qo_YTxlA4Phd0KX3aqCaWlPIuW3abC6gFV9ELNQD0Gw&e= https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_archive&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=ZqpgoFlsOO1My4Qw6qZob2q_1o59tGPKiLmHIbHQl-Q&s=kftuyIHyfEVQkEJU3J0scRElPmJ1olaZDRFZB7UM6Ag&e= Unsubscribe/Manage: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_mailman_options_triumphs_mmarr-40albiontechnical.com&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=ZqpgoFlsOO1My4Qw6qZob2q_1o59tGPKiLmHIbHQl-Q&s=anqpSJ2_EJL6QXKlAYn-I1Kgd9dDXzS1B6u8VnEN3Ag&e= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Wed May 6 11:06:51 2020 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (CFM-TR) Date: Wed, 06 May 2020 13:06:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] fuel pump issues. References: Message-ID: I'm replacing the fuel pump on my tr3a. 1) gasket sealer between gasket and block? 2) between gasket and pump? 3) i have fuel shut off before inline filter placed under frame near clutch slave.? suggestions for priming? fill bowl before mounting? thanks Carl ?Get BlueMail for Android ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Wed May 6 11:40:05 2020 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Wed, 6 May 2020 10:40:05 -0700 Subject: [TR] fuel pump issues. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I use Hylomar on all mounting surfaces. I have never had an issue with the pump needing a prime though it may help if the tank is fairly full. The carbs of course may be primed by use of the lever on the pump. If the pump lacks a lever then the engine may need to crank a few seconds until the SU fuel bowls are filled. On Wed, May 6, 2020, 10:07 AM CFM-TR wrote: > I'm replacing the fuel pump on my tr3a. > > 1) gasket sealer between gasket and block? > > 2) between gasket and pump? > > 3) i have fuel shut off before inline filter placed under frame near > clutch slave. suggestions for priming? fill bowl before mounting? > > thanks > Carl > > > > Get BlueMail for Android > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave at ranteer.com Wed May 6 14:53:06 2020 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Wed, 6 May 2020 15:53:06 -0500 Subject: [TR] valve cover venting Message-ID: <001e01d623e8$585971d0$090c5570$@ranteer.com> My valve cover is spitting oil from the vent, probably because of the performance mods. Been thinking if I run a pipe between the valve cover and the intake manifold, that would create enough suction to solve the problem? Does anyone make this or do I have to build it? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20200506_143652[1].jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 272631 bytes Desc: not available URL: From notakitcar at yahoo.com Wed May 6 15:20:01 2020 From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher) Date: Wed, 6 May 2020 16:20:01 -0500 Subject: [TR] valve cover venting In-Reply-To: <001e01d623e8$585971d0$090c5570$@ranteer.com> References: <001e01d623e8$585971d0$090c5570$@ranteer.com> Message-ID: You could do that, much like a TR4 setup. I should think that given the generous diameter of the TR3 road vent tube it could handle anything unless you are having some serious crankcase pressure issues. Bill B TS30800L Stay Home, Wash Your Hands. On May 6, 2020, at 3:53 PM, dave wrote: ? My valve cover is spitting oil from the vent, probably because of the performance mods. Been thinking if I run a pipe between the valve cover and the intake manifold, that would create enough suction to solve the problem? Does anyone make this or do I have to build it? <20200506_143652[1].jpg> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From notakitcar at yahoo.com Wed May 6 15:20:01 2020 From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher) Date: Wed, 6 May 2020 16:20:01 -0500 Subject: [TR] valve cover venting In-Reply-To: <001e01d623e8$585971d0$090c5570$@ranteer.com> References: <001e01d623e8$585971d0$090c5570$@ranteer.com> Message-ID: You could do that, much like a TR4 setup. I should think that given the generous diameter of the TR3 road vent tube it could handle anything unless you are having some serious crankcase pressure issues. Bill B TS30800L Stay Home, Wash Your Hands. On May 6, 2020, at 3:53 PM, dave wrote: ? My valve cover is spitting oil from the vent, probably because of the performance mods. Been thinking if I run a pipe between the valve cover and the intake manifold, that would create enough suction to solve the problem? Does anyone make this or do I have to build it? <20200506_143652[1].jpg> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From auprichard at uprichard.net Wed May 6 15:24:06 2020 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (andrew uprichard) Date: Wed, 6 May 2020 17:24:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] valve cover venting In-Reply-To: <001e01d623e8$585971d0$090c5570$@ranteer.com> References: <001e01d623e8$585971d0$090c5570$@ranteer.com> Message-ID: <012801d623ec$ad654ec0$082fec40$@uprichard.net> Racetorations has a collecting system which I have on my fast-road TR3. No pipe to the manifold, but pipes run from the engine vent and the valve cover. You can see the collecting box on the inner fender, driver's side. Disclaimer: my cousin owns Racetorations, but he is one of the English Uprichards and I am one of the Irish ones. He is a curmudgeon and I am a nice guy. No financial interest but if you mention my name and he is in a good mood, he may actually be nice to you... Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan From: Triumphs On Behalf Of dave Sent: Wednesday, May 6, 2020 4:53 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] valve cover venting My valve cover is spitting oil from the vent, probably because of the performance mods. Been thinking if I run a pipe between the valve cover and the intake manifold, that would create enough suction to solve the problem? Does anyone make this or do I have to build it? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20161031_153237.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2656234 bytes Desc: not available URL: From dconnitt at fuse.net Wed May 6 15:36:28 2020 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Wed, 6 May 2020 17:36:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] valve cover venting In-Reply-To: <001e01d623e8$585971d0$090c5570$@ranteer.com> References: <001e01d623e8$585971d0$090c5570$@ranteer.com> Message-ID: Dave, Not sure that plumbing a direct vent/suction line from your valve cover to your intake manifold is a real good idea as you will be sucking in a lot of oil mist that will turn into carbon deposits. Ask me how I know. I would look into some kind of catch tank between the intake and valve cover. Dave Connitt Sent from my iPhone > On May 6, 2020, at 4:54 PM, dave wrote: > > ? > My valve cover is spitting oil from the vent, probably because of the performance mods. > > Been thinking if I run a pipe between the valve cover and the intake manifold, that would create enough suction to solve the problem? > > Does anyone make this or do I have to build it? > <20200506_143652[1].jpg> > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dconnitt at fuse.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mmarr at albiontechnical.com Wed May 6 16:00:07 2020 From: mmarr at albiontechnical.com (Michael Marr) Date: Wed, 6 May 2020 22:00:07 +0000 Subject: [TR] valve cover venting In-Reply-To: <012801d623ec$ad654ec0$082fec40$@uprichard.net> References: <001e01d623e8$585971d0$090c5570$@ranteer.com> <012801d623ec$ad654ec0$082fec40$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: As an Anglo-Irishman myself, I find I can be nice or curmudgeonly, more or less at the drop of a hat ? Mike Michael J Marr, P.E., CEng. Albion Technical Services W5918 Hackbarth Rd Fort Atkinson, WI 53538 Cell: 630-202-0065 Email: mmarr at albiontechnical.com From: Triumphs On Behalf Of andrew uprichard Sent: Wednesday, May 6, 2020 4:24 PM To: 'dave' Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] valve cover venting Racetorations has a collecting system which I have on my fast-road TR3. No pipe to the manifold, but pipes run from the engine vent and the valve cover. You can see the collecting box on the inner fender, driver?s side. Disclaimer: my cousin owns Racetorations, but he is one of the English Uprichards and I am one of the Irish ones. He is a curmudgeon and I am a nice guy. No financial interest but if you mention my name and he is in a good mood, he may actually be nice to you?.. Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan From: Triumphs > On Behalf Of dave Sent: Wednesday, May 6, 2020 4:53 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] valve cover venting My valve cover is spitting oil from the vent, probably because of the performance mods. Been thinking if I run a pipe between the valve cover and the intake manifold, that would create enough suction to solve the problem? Does anyone make this or do I have to build it? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Wed May 6 16:06:23 2020 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Wed, 6 May 2020 22:06:23 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] valve cover venting In-Reply-To: References: <001e01d623e8$585971d0$090c5570$@ranteer.com> <012801d623ec$ad654ec0$082fec40$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <101423769.1672335.1588802783286@mail.yahoo.com> Being English-Irish-Scottish-German-French I can be what ever I wish.? Of course my grammar can get confused.? (Hmm... Does the verb go in front or at the end?) Dave -----Original Message----- From: Michael Marr To: andrew uprichard ; 'dave' Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Wed, May 6, 2020 5:00 pm Subject: Re: [TR] valve cover venting #yiv5118305001 #yiv5118305001 -- _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv5118305001 #yiv5118305001 p.yiv5118305001MsoNormal, #yiv5118305001 li.yiv5118305001MsoNormal, #yiv5118305001 div.yiv5118305001MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv5118305001 a:link, #yiv5118305001 span.yiv5118305001MsoHyperlink {color:#0563C1;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv5118305001 .yiv5118305001MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered {}#yiv5118305001 div.yiv5118305001WordSection1 {}#yiv5118305001 As an Anglo-Irishman myself, I find I can be nice or curmudgeonly, more or less at the drop of a hat? ? Mike ? Michael J Marr, P.E., CEng. Albion Technical Services W5918 Hackbarth Rd Fort Atkinson, WI 53538 ? Cell:? 630-202-0065 Email:? mmarr at albiontechnical.com ? From: Triumphs On Behalf Ofandrew uprichard Sent: Wednesday, May 6, 2020 4:24 PM To: 'dave' Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] valve cover venting ? Racetorations has a collecting system which I have on my fast-road TR3.? No pipe to the manifold, but pipes run from the engine vent and the valve cover. You can see the collecting box on the inner fender, driver?s side. ? Disclaimer:? my cousin owns Racetorations, but he is one of the English Uprichards and I am one of the Irish ones.? He is a curmudgeon and I am a nice guy.? No financial interest but if you mention my name and he is in a good mood, he may actually be nice to you?.. ? Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan ? From: Triumphs On Behalf Of dave Sent: Wednesday, May 6, 2020 4:53 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] valve cover venting ? My valve cover is spitting oil from the vent, probably because of the performance mods. ? Been thinking if I run a pipe between the valve cover and the? intake manifold, that would create enough suction to solve the problem? ? Does anyone make this or do I have to build it? ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dlhogye at comcast.net Wed May 6 19:10:42 2020 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (Dave) Date: Wed, 6 May 2020 18:10:42 -0700 Subject: [TR] valve cover venting In-Reply-To: <001e01d623e8$585971d0$090c5570$@ranteer.com> References: <001e01d623e8$585971d0$090c5570$@ranteer.com> Message-ID: Dave, You may need to just seal things up a little tighter or clean your engine more often. A little seepage is more of a sealing problem. There is a lot of oil flinging around inside the cover. A lot. Especially if you have the auxiliary oil feed tube to the rocker shaft. If the original draft tube is in place, the engine should be breathing enough. You could get more venting from the valve cover by running a tube to a catch can. It doesn't look like you have a real problem there. When an engine isn't venting enough, it will push oil out of every possible spot. Like the dipstick hole. That would be an indicator of a real breathing problem. The venting on my race car valve cover connects to the original draft tube location and they both feed into a catch can as per the rule book and proper ventilation of a race engine. If oil does get into the valve cover bent or block vent, it drains right back into the block. My catch can will only have oil in it if something catastrophic happens. I used to run K&N filters on my oil vent catch can, but once the filters got a little wet from oil vapors they stopped venting and oil started coming out other places, like the dipstick hole. Since I have removed the filters, I have not had any issues. Clean your engine more often, Dave H. Sent from my iPad > On May 6, 2020, at 1:53 PM, dave wrote: > > My valve cover is spitting oil from the vent, probably because of the performance mods. > > Been thinking if I run a pipe between the valve cover and the intake manifold, that would create enough suction to solve the problem? > > Does anyone make this or do I have to build it? > <20200506_143652[1].jpg> > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye at comcast.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From anabil007 at comcast.net Wed May 6 19:20:17 2020 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh) Date: Wed, 6 May 2020 18:20:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] valve cover venting In-Reply-To: <012801d623ec$ad654ec0$082fec40$@uprichard.net> References: <001e01d623e8$585971d0$090c5570$@ranteer.com> <012801d623ec$ad654ec0$082fec40$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: Had the same problem , we live in Calaveras County, CA there are many 50-60-s hot rod folks here, took my valve cover to a good shop, told them the problem, they cut a hole in the carb side of the cover, installed a nice vent from a Chevy (all aluminum) ? end of problem . > On May 6, 2020, at 2:24 PM, andrew uprichard wrote: > > Racetorations has a collecting system which I have on my fast-road TR3. No pipe to the manifold, but pipes run from the engine vent and the valve cover. You can see the collecting box on the inner fender, driver?s side. > > Disclaimer: my cousin owns Racetorations, but he is one of the English Uprichards and I am one of the Irish ones. He is a curmudgeon and I am a nice guy. No financial interest but if you mention my name and he is in a good mood, he may actually be nice to you?.. > > Andrew Uprichard > Jackson, Michigan > > From: Triumphs On Behalf Of dave > Sent: Wednesday, May 6, 2020 4:53 PM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] valve cover venting > > My valve cover is spitting oil from the vent, probably because of the performance mods. > > Been thinking if I run a pipe between the valve cover and the intake manifold, that would create enough suction to solve the problem? > > Does anyone make this or do I have to build it? > <20161031_153237.jpg>** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/anabil007 at comcast.net Life is too short to drive Boring Cars From terryrs at comcast.net Thu May 7 08:48:09 2020 From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH) Date: Thu, 7 May 2020 10:48:09 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Parts sources Message-ID: <961554214.1473591.1588862889746@connect.xfinity.com> Okay. I've just gone through my second starter drive on the tractor rebuild, each refusing to retract and engage the flywheel after doing so for a dozen or so attempts. Both $25 and from, I understand, China, which of course is nevertheless not to say that all Chinese parts are poor quality. I've cleaned the drives, lubed them, bench-tested them with a new battery brought up to full charge while applying persuasion to retract. The problem is the quality of the part. (I've found a more expensive alternative and ordered it.) But I'm curious. Like my '59 TR3A, the tractor is old. Is there some sentiment among aftermarket parts manufacturers that old vehicles won't be driven much, so the lifespan-quality of parts they make isn't the focus it maybe once was because, after all, who's really going to find out anyway? With the Triumph, for instance, I've had varying luck with the quality control of points and rotor and, in one instance, a generator. Make no mistake. I'm not complaining, just curious. Overall I'm delighted we have the opportunity for these parts in the first place. But where the heck are the parts for our cars being made? Not that it matters. Poor workmanship--as well as good--is a human trait without borders. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A TS 58667 New Hamsphire -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Thu May 7 09:44:21 2020 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Thu, 7 May 2020 15:44:21 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] valve cover venting In-Reply-To: References: <001e01d623e8$585971d0$090c5570$@ranteer.com> <012801d623ec$ad654ec0$082fec40$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <891970411.1920909.1588866261752@mail.yahoo.com> when i was a younger person, it seemed there was always a senior engineer who was always a curmudgeon. when approaching for advice one would bow low and tip ones hat and ask for advice with a very shy tone. seems the replay was always angrily shot back at you.how funny it is that i now find that angry old engineer curmudgeon looking back at me in the mirror. Frank On Wednesday, May 6, 2020, 03:00:30 PM PDT, Michael Marr wrote: As an Anglo-Irishman myself, I find I can be nice or curmudgeonly, more or less at the drop of a hat? ? Mike ? Michael J Marr, P.E., CEng. Albion Technical Services W5918 Hackbarth Rd Fort Atkinson, WI 53538 ? Cell:? 630-202-0065 Email:? mmarr at albiontechnical.com ? From: Triumphs On Behalf Ofandrew uprichard Sent: Wednesday, May 6, 2020 4:24 PM To: 'dave' Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] valve cover venting ? Racetorations has a collecting system which I have on my fast-road TR3.? No pipe to the manifold, but pipes run from the engine vent and the valve cover. You can see the collecting box on the inner fender, driver?s side. ? Disclaimer:? my cousin owns Racetorations, but he is one of the English Uprichards and I am one of the Irish ones.? He is a curmudgeon and I am a nice guy.? No financial interest but if you mention my name and he is in a good mood, he may actually be nice to you?.. ? Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan ? From: Triumphs On Behalf Of dave Sent: Wednesday, May 6, 2020 4:53 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] valve cover venting ? My valve cover is spitting oil from the vent, probably because of the performance mods. ? Been thinking if I run a pipe between the valve cover and the? intake manifold, that would create enough suction to solve the problem? ? Does anyone make this or do I have to build it? ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mmarr at albiontechnical.com Thu May 7 10:10:18 2020 From: mmarr at albiontechnical.com (Michael Marr) Date: Thu, 7 May 2020 16:10:18 +0000 Subject: [TR] valve cover venting In-Reply-To: <891970411.1920909.1588866261752@mail.yahoo.com> References: <001e01d623e8$585971d0$090c5570$@ranteer.com> <012801d623ec$ad654ec0$082fec40$@uprichard.net> , <891970411.1920909.1588866261752@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4CC7B693-2DBB-445E-9D7C-B4D827E5F905@albiontechnical.com> Frankly, I find the mantle of curmudgeondom rests quite easily on my shoulders. ? Mike Sent from my iPhone On May 7, 2020, at 10:44, Frank Fisher wrote: ? when i was a younger person, it seemed there was always a senior engineer who was always a curmudgeon. when approaching for advice one would bow low and tip ones hat and ask for advice with a very shy tone. seems the replay was always angrily shot back at you. how funny it is that i now find that angry old engineer curmudgeon looking back at me in the mirror. Frank On Wednesday, May 6, 2020, 03:00:30 PM PDT, Michael Marr wrote: As an Anglo-Irishman myself, I find I can be nice or curmudgeonly, more or less at the drop of a hat ? Mike Michael J Marr, P.E., CEng. Albion Technical Services W5918 Hackbarth Rd Fort Atkinson, WI 53538 Cell: 630-202-0065 Email: mmarr at albiontechnical.com From: Triumphs On Behalf Of andrew uprichard Sent: Wednesday, May 6, 2020 4:24 PM To: 'dave' Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] valve cover venting Racetorations has a collecting system which I have on my fast-road TR3. No pipe to the manifold, but pipes run from the engine vent and the valve cover. You can see the collecting box on the inner fender, driver?s side. Disclaimer: my cousin owns Racetorations, but he is one of the English Uprichards and I am one of the Irish ones. He is a curmudgeon and I am a nice guy. No financial interest but if you mention my name and he is in a good mood, he may actually be nice to you?.. Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan From: Triumphs > On Behalf Of dave Sent: Wednesday, May 6, 2020 4:53 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] valve cover venting My valve cover is spitting oil from the vent, probably because of the performance mods. Been thinking if I run a pipe between the valve cover and the intake manifold, that would create enough suction to solve the problem? Does anyone make this or do I have to build it? ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From anabil007 at comcast.net Thu May 7 10:26:09 2020 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh) Date: Thu, 7 May 2020 09:26:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] Parts sources In-Reply-To: <961554214.1473591.1588862889746@connect.xfinity.com> References: <961554214.1473591.1588862889746@connect.xfinity.com> Message-ID: <6EFAA2A4-37C6-479E-BB87-0F99B10B8434@comcast.net> Just put on one of the Hi-Torque Starters?end of problem. > On May 7, 2020, at 7:48 AM, TERRY SMITH wrote: > > Okay. I've just gone through my second starter drive on the tractor rebuild, each refusing to retract and engage the flywheel after doing so for a dozen or so attempts. Both $25 and from, I understand, China, which of course is nevertheless not to say that all Chinese parts are poor quality. I've cleaned the drives, lubed them, bench-tested them with a new battery brought up to full charge while applying persuasion to retract. The problem is the quality of the part. (I've found a more expensive alternative and ordered it.) > > But I'm curious. Like my '59 TR3A, the tractor is old. Is there some sentiment among aftermarket parts manufacturers that old vehicles won't be driven much, so the lifespan-quality of parts they make isn't the focus it maybe once was because, after all, who's really going to find out anyway? With the Triumph, for instance, I've had varying luck with the quality control of points and rotor and, in one instance, a generator. > > Make no mistake. I'm not complaining, just curious. Overall I'm delighted we have the opportunity for these parts in the first place. But where the heck are the parts for our cars being made? Not that it matters. Poor workmanship--as well as good--is a human trait without borders. > > Terry Smith, '59 TR3A TS 58667 > New Hamsphire > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/anabil007 at comcast.net Life is too short to drive Boring Cars From yellowtr at adelphia.net Thu May 7 11:35:36 2020 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Thu, 7 May 2020 13:35:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] So quiet In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <38bcabeb-5cbd-95b6-cda6-94c4fbc16749@adelphia.net> I have had my 72 6 out once and the 58 3 out twice. Next week the high will be in the low 40s. Very long and cold Spring like last year but at least I have had 2 cars out before May 1. Last year I didn't get anything out until May 15! Top down on the 3 and the few police I have seen didn't wink an eye. I do have some work to do on the 6. The left side rear lights dont work at all. So I am guessing a bad ground (I hope). Bob On 5/7/20 1:29 PM, Mark J Bradakis via 6pack wrote: > You would think that traffic on the lists might pick up a bit with > more folks staying at home and looking for things to do. > > What I would like to see is folks going to > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/the-local and subscribing to > that list.? It is the proper place for diversions like the 'old > sayings' thread that was not exactly appropriate material for this > list, but some folks enjoyed, while others complained about off-topic. > > I do what I can, but can't please everybody all the time.? Such is life. > > Stay healthy, my friends. > > mjb. > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/yellowtr at adelphia.net > From aljlthomson at charter.net Thu May 7 13:40:02 2020 From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson) Date: Thu, 7 May 2020 15:40:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] Parts sources In-Reply-To: <961554214.1473591.1588862889746@connect.xfinity.com> References: <961554214.1473591.1588862889746@connect.xfinity.com> Message-ID: <00a901d624a7$4d6f3380$e84d9a80$@charter.net> I admit that I bought a starter for an Onan twin cylinder and my JD 4230 from D.B. Electrical. I hate to buy foreign made items, but I hate to pay $488 for a rebuilt as opposed to $150 for a new one. I know, I know ? the new one is Chinese. The problem is that until you see the replacement part in your hand, you have no idea where it came from despite the leaping deer on the box. We are fortunate that there are still a few old - time shops that repair the old items. I had a Delco 6 volt, 3 brush generator for my Farmall H redone by a shop in Torrington. It now can put out 10 amps and works well. We also have a radiator shop in Meriden that will repair old units. They have repaired 4 or 5 radiators including both Triumphs and some Deeres. Alex Thomson From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TERRY SMITH Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2020 10:48 AM To: triumphs Subject: [TR] Parts sources Okay. I've just gone through my second starter drive on the tractor rebuild, each refusing to retract and engage the flywheel after doing so for a dozen or so attempts. Both $25 and from, I understand, China, which of course is nevertheless not to say that all Chinese parts are poor quality. I've cleaned the drives, lubed them, bench-tested them with a new battery brought up to full charge while applying persuasion to retract. The problem is the quality of the part. (I've found a more expensive alternative and ordered it.) But I'm curious. Like my '59 TR3A, the tractor is old. Is there some sentiment among aftermarket parts manufacturers that old vehicles won't be driven much, so the lifespan-quality of parts they make isn't the focus it maybe once was because, after all, who's really going to find out anyway? With the Triumph, for instance, I've had varying luck with the quality control of points and rotor and, in one instance, a generator. Make no mistake. I'm not complaining, just curious. Overall I'm delighted we have the opportunity for these parts in the first place. But where the heck are the parts for our cars being made? Not that it matters. Poor workmanship--as well as good--is a human trait without borders. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A TS 58667 New Hamsphire -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Fri May 8 11:56:15 2020 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (CFM-TR) Date: Fri, 08 May 2020 13:56:15 -0400 Subject: [TR] fuel pump issues - followup References: <6144d680-eeea-49a1-971e-d335b4dd6181.ref@verizon.net> Message-ID: <6144d680-eeea-49a1-971e-d335b4dd6181@verizon.net> I have been dealing with fuel pump issues for some time so during this down time I thought I would work on it. Jacked up the driver side of the car; pulled the offending pump; replaced it; and no fuel getting to the carburetors! Remove; reinstall; prime; rant; rave; throw things; no fuel....? repeat... Ok, must have something lodged in fuel line before the fuel shut-off valve.?? Modify ez-bleed to "vacuum" line...? no fuel.? look in tank....? yes there is fuel..... rant; rave; throw things; no fuel....? repeat... Wake up at 3:30 - duh! i jacked up the car. outlet is bare!? what a fun 9 days.? ?Get BlueMail for Android ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From notakitcar at yahoo.com Fri May 8 16:04:00 2020 From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher) Date: Fri, 8 May 2020 17:04:00 -0500 Subject: [TR] Front hub References: <546CA720-69E9-4EBC-8D6E-1AA00B1C87CC.ref@yahoo.com> Message-ID: <546CA720-69E9-4EBC-8D6E-1AA00B1C87CC@yahoo.com> OK, replacing the timing cover and then the front hub & pulley on the TR3 motor. The book says the when the keyway on the crank is at 6:00, the motor is at TDC. However it feels like TDC is a 1/6 of a turn beyond that(clockwise) and that is where the notch in the hub is. Need to get the pulley positioned correctly before I move forward, it is a bear to deal with in situ. Someone who has BTDT? Thanks, Bill B TS75131E Stay Home, Wash Your Hands. From auprichard at uprichard.net Sat May 9 06:23:42 2020 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (andrew uprichard) Date: Sat, 9 May 2020 08:23:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] Front hub In-Reply-To: <546CA720-69E9-4EBC-8D6E-1AA00B1C87CC@yahoo.com> References: <546CA720-69E9-4EBC-8D6E-1AA00B1C87CC.ref@yahoo.com> <546CA720-69E9-4EBC-8D6E-1AA00B1C87CC@yahoo.com> Message-ID: <00bb01d625fc$aecc01c0$0c640540$@uprichard.net> Bill: The hub has been taken apart at some stage in the past and put together wrong. Separate the 2 halves and rotate 1/6 turn so when the keyway is at 6:00, the mark is at 12:00. Andrew -----Original Message----- From: Triumphs On Behalf Of bill beecher Sent: Friday, May 8, 2020 6:04 PM To: Dave Ranteer Subject: [TR] Front hub OK, replacing the timing cover and then the front hub & pulley on the TR3 motor. The book says the when the keyway on the crank is at 6:00, the motor is at TDC. However it feels like TDC is a 1/6 of a turn beyond that(clockwise) and that is where the notch in the hub is. Need to get the pulley positioned correctly before I move forward, it is a bear to deal with in situ. Someone who has BTDT? Thanks, Bill B TS75131E Stay Home, Wash Your Hands. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From notakitcar at yahoo.com Sat May 9 07:39:53 2020 From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher) Date: Sat, 9 May 2020 08:39:53 -0500 Subject: [TR] Front hub In-Reply-To: <00bb01d625fc$aecc01c0$0c640540$@uprichard.net> References: <00bb01d625fc$aecc01c0$0c640540$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <65284D2E-E7B5-4116-B498-C94FECF521F4@yahoo.com> I guess I didn?t say it right. When #1 is at TDC crank is at 7:30. I know about moving the pulley, that?s how I discovered this anomaly. A friend suggested that possibly the end of the crank has been broken and welded, seems unlikely. Bill Stay Home, Wash Your Hands. On May 9, 2020, at 7:23 AM, andrew uprichard wrote: ?Bill: The hub has been taken apart at some stage in the past and put together wrong. Separate the 2 halves and rotate 1/6 turn so when the keyway is at 6:00, the mark is at 12:00. Andrew -----Original Message----- From: Triumphs On Behalf Of bill beecher Sent: Friday, May 8, 2020 6:04 PM To: Dave Ranteer Subject: [TR] Front hub OK, replacing the timing cover and then the front hub & pulley on the TR3 motor. The book says the when the keyway on the crank is at 6:00, the motor is at TDC. However it feels like TDC is a 1/6 of a turn beyond that(clockwise) and that is where the notch in the hub is. Need to get the pulley positioned correctly before I move forward, it is a bear to deal with in situ. Someone who has BTDT? Thanks, Bill B TS75131E Stay Home, Wash Your Hands. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From notakitcar at yahoo.com Sat May 9 07:39:53 2020 From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher) Date: Sat, 9 May 2020 08:39:53 -0500 Subject: [TR] Front hub In-Reply-To: <00bb01d625fc$aecc01c0$0c640540$@uprichard.net> References: <00bb01d625fc$aecc01c0$0c640540$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <65284D2E-E7B5-4116-B498-C94FECF521F4@yahoo.com> I guess I didn?t say it right. When #1 is at TDC crank is at 7:30. I know about moving the pulley, that?s how I discovered this anomaly. A friend suggested that possibly the end of the crank has been broken and welded, seems unlikely. Bill Stay Home, Wash Your Hands. On May 9, 2020, at 7:23 AM, andrew uprichard wrote: ?Bill: The hub has been taken apart at some stage in the past and put together wrong. Separate the 2 halves and rotate 1/6 turn so when the keyway is at 6:00, the mark is at 12:00. Andrew -----Original Message----- From: Triumphs On Behalf Of bill beecher Sent: Friday, May 8, 2020 6:04 PM To: Dave Ranteer Subject: [TR] Front hub OK, replacing the timing cover and then the front hub & pulley on the TR3 motor. The book says the when the keyway on the crank is at 6:00, the motor is at TDC. However it feels like TDC is a 1/6 of a turn beyond that(clockwise) and that is where the notch in the hub is. Need to get the pulley positioned correctly before I move forward, it is a bear to deal with in situ. Someone who has BTDT? Thanks, Bill B TS75131E Stay Home, Wash Your Hands. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From auprichard at uprichard.net Sat May 9 08:13:56 2020 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (andrew uprichard) Date: Sat, 9 May 2020 10:13:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] Front hub In-Reply-To: <65284D2E-E7B5-4116-B498-C94FECF521F4@yahoo.com> References: <00bb01d625fc$aecc01c0$0c640540$@uprichard.net> <65284D2E-E7B5-4116-B498-C94FECF521F4@yahoo.com> Message-ID: <014401d6260c$15431830$3fc94890$@uprichard.net> I just don't know how that can be possible. Wrong crank? Repaired crank? If the engine is out of the car, I'd seriously consider replacing the crank. I have a spare here. Andrew -----Original Message----- From: bill beecher Sent: Saturday, May 9, 2020 9:40 AM To: andrew uprichard Cc: Dave Ranteer Subject: Re: [TR] Front hub I guess I didn?t say it right. When #1 is at TDC crank is at 7:30. I know about moving the pulley, that?s how I discovered this anomaly. A friend suggested that possibly the end of the crank has been broken and welded, seems unlikely. Bill Stay Home, Wash Your Hands. On May 9, 2020, at 7:23 AM, andrew uprichard wrote: ?Bill: The hub has been taken apart at some stage in the past and put together wrong. Separate the 2 halves and rotate 1/6 turn so when the keyway is at 6:00, the mark is at 12:00. Andrew -----Original Message----- From: Triumphs On Behalf Of bill beecher Sent: Friday, May 8, 2020 6:04 PM To: Dave Ranteer Subject: [TR] Front hub OK, replacing the timing cover and then the front hub & pulley on the TR3 motor. The book says the when the keyway on the crank is at 6:00, the motor is at TDC. However it feels like TDC is a 1/6 of a turn beyond that(clockwise) and that is where the notch in the hub is. Need to get the pulley positioned correctly before I move forward, it is a bear to deal with in situ. Someone who has BTDT? Thanks, Bill B TS75131E Stay Home, Wash Your Hands. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From notakitcar at yahoo.com Sat May 9 10:00:11 2020 From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher) Date: Sat, 9 May 2020 11:00:11 -0500 Subject: [TR] Front hub In-Reply-To: <014401d6260c$15431830$3fc94890$@uprichard.net> References: <014401d6260c$15431830$3fc94890$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: Andrew, Strange indeed, I?m going drop it in and fire it up, it?s already back together. Won?t take long, ran great when I pulled it out. Thanks for the offer, give me a couple weeks, I may be calling! Bill Stay Home, Wash Your Hands. On May 9, 2020, at 9:14 AM, andrew uprichard wrote: ?I just don't know how that can be possible. Wrong crank? Repaired crank? If the engine is out of the car, I'd seriously consider replacing the crank. I have a spare here. Andrew -----Original Message----- From: bill beecher Sent: Saturday, May 9, 2020 9:40 AM To: andrew uprichard Cc: Dave Ranteer Subject: Re: [TR] Front hub I guess I didn?t say it right. When #1 is at TDC crank is at 7:30. I know about moving the pulley, that?s how I discovered this anomaly. A friend suggested that possibly the end of the crank has been broken and welded, seems unlikely. Bill Stay Home, Wash Your Hands. On May 9, 2020, at 7:23 AM, andrew uprichard wrote: ?Bill: The hub has been taken apart at some stage in the past and put together wrong. Separate the 2 halves and rotate 1/6 turn so when the keyway is at 6:00, the mark is at 12:00. Andrew -----Original Message----- From: Triumphs On Behalf Of bill beecher Sent: Friday, May 8, 2020 6:04 PM To: Dave Ranteer Subject: [TR] Front hub OK, replacing the timing cover and then the front hub & pulley on the TR3 motor. The book says the when the keyway on the crank is at 6:00, the motor is at TDC. However it feels like TDC is a 1/6 of a turn beyond that(clockwise) and that is where the notch in the hub is. Need to get the pulley positioned correctly before I move forward, it is a bear to deal with in situ. Someone who has BTDT? Thanks, Bill B TS75131E Stay Home, Wash Your Hands. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From notakitcar at yahoo.com Sat May 9 10:00:11 2020 From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher) Date: Sat, 9 May 2020 11:00:11 -0500 Subject: [TR] Front hub In-Reply-To: <014401d6260c$15431830$3fc94890$@uprichard.net> References: <014401d6260c$15431830$3fc94890$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: Andrew, Strange indeed, I?m going drop it in and fire it up, it?s already back together. Won?t take long, ran great when I pulled it out. Thanks for the offer, give me a couple weeks, I may be calling! Bill Stay Home, Wash Your Hands. On May 9, 2020, at 9:14 AM, andrew uprichard wrote: ?I just don't know how that can be possible. Wrong crank? Repaired crank? If the engine is out of the car, I'd seriously consider replacing the crank. I have a spare here. Andrew -----Original Message----- From: bill beecher Sent: Saturday, May 9, 2020 9:40 AM To: andrew uprichard Cc: Dave Ranteer Subject: Re: [TR] Front hub I guess I didn?t say it right. When #1 is at TDC crank is at 7:30. I know about moving the pulley, that?s how I discovered this anomaly. A friend suggested that possibly the end of the crank has been broken and welded, seems unlikely. Bill Stay Home, Wash Your Hands. On May 9, 2020, at 7:23 AM, andrew uprichard wrote: ?Bill: The hub has been taken apart at some stage in the past and put together wrong. Separate the 2 halves and rotate 1/6 turn so when the keyway is at 6:00, the mark is at 12:00. Andrew -----Original Message----- From: Triumphs On Behalf Of bill beecher Sent: Friday, May 8, 2020 6:04 PM To: Dave Ranteer Subject: [TR] Front hub OK, replacing the timing cover and then the front hub & pulley on the TR3 motor. The book says the when the keyway on the crank is at 6:00, the motor is at TDC. However it feels like TDC is a 1/6 of a turn beyond that(clockwise) and that is where the notch in the hub is. Need to get the pulley positioned correctly before I move forward, it is a bear to deal with in situ. Someone who has BTDT? Thanks, Bill B TS75131E Stay Home, Wash Your Hands. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From anabil007 at comcast.net Mon May 11 16:47:42 2020 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh) Date: Mon, 11 May 2020 15:47:42 -0700 Subject: [TR] Absolutely NOT about TRs Message-ID: <459FE182-AD5F-4406-8734-C43DAB529FD8@comcast.net> BUT! In my first life (1948-1952) I played Drums ? love the marches ? JFS still my favorite. Any Way ? been listening to a lot of March Music (as a home-hermit) you can go nuts, the Marches help. I remember Marches were divided up into segments? One ? I think was the Trio ? but I cannot remember the other two (first and third)? Any Drummers out there ? would really help and also slow down the bottle of 12 year single malt. Bill Pugh Benton High Schoo Marching Band St. Joseph, MO Thanks again Life is too short to drive Boring Cars From dave1massey at cs.com Tue May 12 05:47:42 2020 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 11:47:42 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Absolutely NOT about TRs In-Reply-To: <459FE182-AD5F-4406-8734-C43DAB529FD8@comcast.net> References: <459FE182-AD5F-4406-8734-C43DAB529FD8@comcast.net> Message-ID: <878887425.983032.1589284062282@mail.yahoo.com> Sorry, I don't have an answer to your questions.? But I can't help myself. There is a joke common amongst us pipers: So this drummer walks out of a bar... Hey!? It could happen. Dave -----Original Message----- From: William Pugh To: triumphs Sent: Mon, May 11, 2020 5:47 pm Subject: [TR] Absolutely NOT about TRs BUT! In my first life (1948-1952)? I played Drums ? love the marches ? JFS still my favorite. Any Way ? been listening to a lot of March Music? (as a home-hermit) you can go nuts, the Marches? help. I remember Marches were divided up into segments?? One ? I think was the Trio ? but I cannot remember the other two? (first and third)? Any Drummers out there ? would really help and also slow down the bottle of 12 year single malt. Bill Pugh Benton High Schoo Marching Band St. Joseph, MO Thanks again Life is too short to drive Boring Cars ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mark at bradakis.com Tue May 12 07:13:32 2020 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 07:13:32 -0600 Subject: [TR] Absolutely NOT about TRs In-Reply-To: <459FE182-AD5F-4406-8734-C43DAB529FD8@comcast.net> References: <459FE182-AD5F-4406-8734-C43DAB529FD8@comcast.net> Message-ID: <6f869a12-eaa7-ac38-2aad-dffa9eda9143@bradakis.com> On a note about off topic posts, I believe I've mentioned this before.? I suggest if you want to chat with your Team.Net friends about off topic stuff like what the hell is going on these days, I suggest you subscribe to and make use of a mailing list I set up long ago for off topic ramblings. http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/the-local With more people still stuck at home and not being able to go down to your local for a pint, at least we can fake it with a virtual one. mjb. From auprichard at uprichard.net Tue May 12 15:54:29 2020 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (andrew uprichard) Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 17:54:29 -0400 Subject: [TR] Ideas, anyone? Message-ID: <001d01d628a7$ea379910$bea6cb30$@uprichard.net> Having (I think) sorted out the problem with the TR4, I took a recently-finished TR3B out for its second inaugural drive. The first inaugural drive went pretty well, but once the engine temp came up, the oil pressure fell like a stone - and here we are talking around 40psi at 3000rpm and almost nothing at (what was hot) idle. Adjusting the pressure with the screw on the oil filter head did nothing. I checked everything over, even pulled the oil pan and checked all the bearings (one main and 4 rods) - all perfect. I really didn't find anything, and the specs on the oil pump looked good, but I ordered a new pump as well as a new spring for the Purolator oil filter head (the valve itself is no longer obtainable). So today when I first took it out, the pressure was almost too high - around 90 at 3000 rpm. But as soon as the engine warmed up, it again dropped to scary levels. No leaks, no oil in water or vice versa. I am running out of ideas here. Could it be a bad oil filter head? Anything else? Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From boleaver at gmail.com Tue May 12 15:58:26 2020 From: boleaver at gmail.com (Bob Leaver) Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 15:58:26 -0600 Subject: [TR] fast idle problem Message-ID: I have a 1965 Triumph TR4a that I rebuilt the SU carbs and now I can't get the idle below about 1500. I've tried all the screws and checked all gaskets and nothing. The only possibility I can come up with is air getting around the shafts. When rebuilding the cars I didn't replace the shafts because I didn't have a reamer. Moss has a reamer for $290.00. I looked on line and can't find a less expensive replacement. The book states the size of the reamer is 5/16" + 0.0105". What kind of measurement is this? Can you use a 5/16" reamer? Does anyone have ideas how I can get the idle down? Does anyone know of a cheaper reamer to use? Thanks, Bob From auprichard at uprichard.net Tue May 12 16:52:11 2020 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (andrew uprichard) Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 18:52:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] fast idle problem In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <002c01d628af$fa0ca990$ee25fcb0$@uprichard.net> What if you push the shaft down manually? Is it maybe just stiff or getting caught up? And is your timing correct? Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan -----Original Message----- From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Bob Leaver Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2020 5:58 PM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] fast idle problem I have a 1965 Triumph TR4a that I rebuilt the SU carbs and now I can't get the idle below about 1500. I've tried all the screws and checked all gaskets and nothing. The only possibility I can come up with is air getting around the shafts. When rebuilding the cars I didn't replace the shafts because I didn't have a reamer. Moss has a reamer for $290.00. I looked on line and can't find a less expensive replacement. The book states the size of the reamer is 5/16" + 0.0105". What kind of measurement is this? Can you use a 5/16" reamer? Does anyone have ideas how I can get the idle down? Does anyone know of a cheaper reamer to use? Thanks, Bob ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From dconnitt at fuse.net Tue May 12 17:09:54 2020 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 19:09:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] fast idle problem In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Bob, you might contact Joe Curto? He rebushed and fitted new throttle shafts in my SU?s several years ago and it was less than $300.00. Plus he has done it before (grin) Dave Connitt Sent from my iPhone > On May 12, 2020, at 6:27 PM, Bob Leaver wrote: > > ?I have a 1965 Triumph TR4a that I rebuilt the SU carbs and now I can't > get the idle below about 1500. I've tried all the screws and checked > all gaskets and nothing. The only possibility I can come up with is > air getting around the shafts. When rebuilding the cars I didn't > replace the shafts because I didn't have a reamer. Moss has a reamer > for $290.00. I looked on line and can't find a less expensive > replacement. The book states the size of the reamer is 5/16" + > 0.0105". What kind of measurement is this? Can you use a 5/16" reamer? > Does anyone have ideas how I can get the idle down? Does anyone know > of a cheaper reamer to use? Thanks, Bob > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dconnitt at fuse.net From anabil007 at comcast.net Tue May 12 17:24:04 2020 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh) Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 16:24:04 -0700 Subject: [TR] fast idle problem In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <421A546F-9005-472B-A586-C8C1E8BF1752@comcast.net> There is a great book (How to repair your Foreign Car) Chapter 13 ?Carburetor? Is French Word Meaning ?Leave it alone? One last thing (for all) if you really want to improve the handling?s of a TR6 ? install a Rear Sway Bar ? installation is not simple but can be done in a day and That will blow your mind. > On May 12, 2020, at 2:58 PM, Bob Leaver wrote: > > I have a 1965 Triumph TR4a that I rebuilt the SU carbs and now I can't > get the idle below about 1500. I've tried all the screws and checked > all gaskets and nothing. The only possibility I can come up with is > air getting around the shafts. When rebuilding the cars I didn't > replace the shafts because I didn't have a reamer. Moss has a reamer > for $290.00. I looked on line and can't find a less expensive > replacement. The book states the size of the reamer is 5/16" + > 0.0105". What kind of measurement is this? Can you use a 5/16" reamer? > Does anyone have ideas how I can get the idle down? Does anyone know > of a cheaper reamer to use? Thanks, Bob > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/anabil007 at comcast.net Life is too short to drive Boring Cars -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dlhogye at comcast.net Tue May 12 17:31:44 2020 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (Dave) Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 16:31:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] Ideas, anyone? In-Reply-To: <001d01d628a7$ea379910$bea6cb30$@uprichard.net> References: <001d01d628a7$ea379910$bea6cb30$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: Have you compared to another gauge? Maybe inline running the dash gauge too. I have heard that a badly worn front cam bearing can cause low oil pressure issues. This bearing doesn't usually get replaced during a rebuild, even when the other cam bearings do, but they can get heavy wear. Dave H. Sent from my iPad > On May 12, 2020, at 2:54 PM, andrew uprichard wrote: > > Having (I think) sorted out the problem with the TR4, I took a recently-finished TR3B out for its second inaugural drive. > > The first inaugural drive went pretty well, but once the engine temp came up, the oil pressure fell like a stone ? and here we are talking around 40psi at 3000rpm and almost nothing at (what was hot) idle. Adjusting the pressure with the screw on the oil filter head did nothing. > > I checked everything over, even pulled the oil pan and checked all the bearings (one main and 4 rods) ? all perfect. I really didn?t find anything, and the specs on the oil pump looked good, but I ordered a new pump as well as a new spring for the Purolator oil filter head (the valve itself is no longer obtainable). > > So today when I first took it out, the pressure was almost too high ? around 90 at 3000 rpm. But as soon as the engine warmed up, it again dropped to scary levels. No leaks, no oil in water or vice versa. > > I am running out of ideas here. Could it be a bad oil filter head? Anything else? > > Andrew Uprichard > Jackson, Michigan > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye at comcast.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mark at bradakis.com Tue May 12 17:44:56 2020 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 17:44:56 -0600 Subject: [TR] fast idle problem In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Have you tried spraying carb cleaner around the carbs, the carb/manifold mating surface, the manifold/head joint?? Have you balanced the carbs?? Are you sure it is not just the linkage hanging up somewhere? mjb. From bk13 at earthlink.net Tue May 12 18:33:27 2020 From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp) Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 17:33:27 -0700 Subject: [TR] fast idle problem In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <50c8403f-035d-4e42-c62f-dd9eb59a3c82@earthlink.net> Bob - You may want to see if you have someplace local that can ream the carbs for you.? One of these days I'll be taking mine to a local guy that rebuilds carbs out of his garage.? I have the parts from a TRF kit that I ordered before finding out you also needed the reamer. Brian On 5/12/2020 2:58 PM, Bob Leaver wrote: > I have a 1965 Triumph TR4a that I rebuilt the SU carbs and now I can't > get the idle below about 1500. I've tried all the screws and checked > all gaskets and nothing. The only possibility I can come up with is > air getting around the shafts. When rebuilding the cars I didn't > replace the shafts because I didn't have a reamer. Moss has a reamer > for $290.00. I looked on line and can't find a less expensive > replacement. The book states the size of the reamer is 5/16" + > 0.0105". What kind of measurement is this? Can you use a 5/16" reamer? > Does anyone have ideas how I can get the idle down? Does anyone know > of a cheaper reamer to use? Thanks, Bob > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bk13 at earthlink.net From dave1massey at cs.com Tue May 12 18:34:33 2020 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 00:34:33 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] fast idle problem In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <89482.127621.1589330073132@mail.yahoo.com> Did you get the throttle plate centered?? If it is not centered it will hit the throat on one side while there is still a big gap on the other.? Dave -----Original Message----- From: Bob Leaver To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, May 12, 2020 4:58 pm Subject: [TR] fast idle problem I have a 1965 Triumph TR4a that I rebuilt the SU carbs and now I can't get the idle below about 1500. I've tried all the screws and checked all gaskets and nothing. The only possibility I can come up with is air getting around the shafts. When rebuilding the cars I didn't replace the shafts because I didn't have a reamer. Moss has a reamer for $290.00. I looked on line and can't find a less expensive replacement. The book states the size of the reamer is 5/16" + 0.0105". What kind of measurement is this? Can you use a 5/16" reamer? Does anyone have ideas how I can get the idle down? Does anyone know of a cheaper reamer to use? Thanks, Bob ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From McGaheyRx at aol.com Tue May 12 18:54:33 2020 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (Jack McGahey) Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 20:54:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] fast idle problem In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5F880BE1-2D1C-484A-9692-C745236F1B97@aol.com> I doubt very seriously that your shaft bushings are leaking enough air to maintain a 1500 rpm idle - the shafts would have to be REALLY loose in their bushings and you?d probably notice - probably the butterflies are not closing completely as the should be if you?ve backed the idle screws out all the way as your post implies you have - You can start by disconnecting the throttle linkage from the carbs - then, if the butterflies close and drop the idle to zero, you can work backwards to see what about the linkage is holding them open. If you need shafts and bushings anyway, I?d forget buying a reamer - Joe Curto will do all the machining and replace the bushings and shafts in both carbs for $150 plus shipping both ways. Cheers, Jack Mc Sent from my iPad > On May 12, 2020, at 6:27 PM, Bob Leaver wrote: > > ?I have a 1965 Triumph TR4a that I rebuilt the SU carbs and now I can't > get the idle below about 1500. I've tried all the screws and checked > all gaskets and nothing. The only possibility I can come up with is > air getting around the shafts. When rebuilding the cars I didn't > replace the shafts because I didn't have a reamer. Moss has a reamer > for $290.00. I looked on line and can't find a less expensive > replacement. The book states the size of the reamer is 5/16" + > 0.0105". What kind of measurement is this? Can you use a 5/16" reamer? > Does anyone have ideas how I can get the idle down? Does anyone know > of a cheaper reamer to use? Thanks, Bob > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mcgaheyrx at aol.com From McGaheyRx at aol.com Tue May 12 18:54:33 2020 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (Jack McGahey) Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 20:54:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] fast idle problem In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5F880BE1-2D1C-484A-9692-C745236F1B97@aol.com> I doubt very seriously that your shaft bushings are leaking enough air to maintain a 1500 rpm idle - the shafts would have to be REALLY loose in their bushings and you?d probably notice - probably the butterflies are not closing completely as the should be if you?ve backed the idle screws out all the way as your post implies you have - You can start by disconnecting the throttle linkage from the carbs - then, if the butterflies close and drop the idle to zero, you can work backwards to see what about the linkage is holding them open. If you need shafts and bushings anyway, I?d forget buying a reamer - Joe Curto will do all the machining and replace the bushings and shafts in both carbs for $150 plus shipping both ways. Cheers, Jack Mc Sent from my iPad > On May 12, 2020, at 6:27 PM, Bob Leaver wrote: > > ?I have a 1965 Triumph TR4a that I rebuilt the SU carbs and now I can't > get the idle below about 1500. I've tried all the screws and checked > all gaskets and nothing. The only possibility I can come up with is > air getting around the shafts. When rebuilding the cars I didn't > replace the shafts because I didn't have a reamer. Moss has a reamer > for $290.00. I looked on line and can't find a less expensive > replacement. The book states the size of the reamer is 5/16" + > 0.0105". What kind of measurement is this? Can you use a 5/16" reamer? > Does anyone have ideas how I can get the idle down? Does anyone know > of a cheaper reamer to use? Thanks, Bob > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mcgaheyrx at aol.com From fishplate at gmail.com Tue May 12 19:20:16 2020 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 21:20:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] Ideas, anyone? In-Reply-To: <001d01d628a7$ea379910$bea6cb30$@uprichard.net> References: <001d01d628a7$ea379910$bea6cb30$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: Does the TR3B not have an oil pressure relief valve with associated spring? On Tue, May 12, 2020 at 6:27 PM andrew uprichard wrote: > Having (I think) sorted out the problem with the TR4, I took a > recently-finished TR3B out for its second inaugural drive. > > > > The first inaugural drive went pretty well, but once the engine temp came > up, the oil pressure fell like a stone ? and here we are talking around > 40psi at 3000rpm and almost nothing at (what was hot) idle. Adjusting the > pressure with the screw on the oil filter head did nothing. > > > > I checked everything over, even pulled the oil pan and checked all the > bearings (one main and 4 rods) ? all perfect. I really didn?t find > anything, and the specs on the oil pump looked good, but I ordered a new > pump as well as a new spring for the Purolator oil filter head (the valve > itself is no longer obtainable). > > > > So today when I first took it out, the pressure was almost too high ? > around 90 at 3000 rpm. But as soon as the engine warmed up, it again > dropped to scary levels. No leaks, no oil in water or vice versa. > > > > I am running out of ideas here. Could it be a bad oil filter head? > Anything else? > > > > Andrew Uprichard > > Jackson, Michigan > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fishplate at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mmarr at albiontechnical.com Tue May 12 19:40:50 2020 From: mmarr at albiontechnical.com (Michael Marr) Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 01:40:50 +0000 Subject: [TR] fast idle problem In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: The Moss reamer cuts a hole that is 10 thousands (nominal) oversize, and requires you to use ten thousandths oversize throttle shafts. The reamer has an extended pilot, so that, even when reaming by hand, the alignment between the holes on each side of the throttle body is maintained. To that extent, it is a special reamer, which accounts for its price. I found other piloted reamers, but they are chucking reamers and the pilot is quite short, so you would have to set the carb body up on a good drill press (or vertical mill, preferably) with the axis of the throttle bushing holes perfectly vertical. The body would have to be clamped to an angle plate in some manner. Such a reamer, of the right size, can be found here... https://www.panamericantool.com/high-speed-steel-reamers/high-speed-steel-piloted-chucking-reamers.html Part number 99-703 is what you would want. But, unless you've done this kind of set-up before, I wouldn't recommend doing this. I think sending the bodies out to have new oversized shafts fitted might be the most expedient thing. Mike Michael J Marr, P.E., CEng. Albion Technical Services W5918 Hackbarth Rd Fort Atkinson, WI 53538 Cell: 630-202-0065 Email: mmarr at albiontechnical.com -----Original Message----- From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Bob Leaver Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2020 4:58 PM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] fast idle problem I have a 1965 Triumph TR4a that I rebuilt the SU carbs and now I can't get the idle below about 1500. I've tried all the screws and checked all gaskets and nothing. The only possibility I can come up with is air getting around the shafts. When rebuilding the cars I didn't replace the shafts because I didn't have a reamer. Moss has a reamer for $290.00. I looked on line and can't find a less expensive replacement. The book states the size of the reamer is 5/16" + 0.0105". What kind of measurement is this? Can you use a 5/16" reamer? Does anyone have ideas how I can get the idle down? Does anyone know of a cheaper reamer to use? Thanks, Bob ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=3JrDLbJKoSWVmzxR9yAqEY_Qj1O6UBBa9gaq3qfosU0&s=fcams_IcyTxT42KTTKzdgPpET42jYRovw8nyOkWYl1I&e= Archive: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_pipermail_triumphs&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=3JrDLbJKoSWVmzxR9yAqEY_Qj1O6UBBa9gaq3qfosU0&s=tt8izdlC0lb0YIDeBxoLKz6KFf6pFO7PYqZED3LJLGI&e= https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_archive&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=3JrDLbJKoSWVmzxR9yAqEY_Qj1O6UBBa9gaq3qfosU0&s=YzdZFWtTjhGEow2RCr23bxZPySU7oxypkclzKL3hl5s&e= Unsubscribe/Manage: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_mailman_options_triumphs_mmarr-40albiontechnical.com&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=3JrDLbJKoSWVmzxR9yAqEY_Qj1O6UBBa9gaq3qfosU0&s=n13_oCFuCopTUYc-K9K4IEfSbvoh9bLu26krBSX150U&e= From notakitcar at yahoo.com Tue May 12 20:36:20 2020 From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher) Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 21:36:20 -0500 Subject: [TR] fast idle problem In-Reply-To: <50c8403f-035d-4e42-c62f-dd9eb59a3c82@earthlink.net> References: <50c8403f-035d-4e42-c62f-dd9eb59a3c82@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <785B365C-A309-4574-B03D-91AA14E6FFE7@yahoo.com> Save the grief at about the same cost, send off to Joe Curto for new bushes and shafts. You will know it?s right, your TR will thank you. NFI Serenity Now...... On May 12, 2020, at 8:32 PM, Brian Kemp wrote: ?Bob - You may want to see if you have someplace local that can ream the carbs for you. One of these days I'll be taking mine to a local guy that rebuilds carbs out of his garage. I have the parts from a TRF kit that I ordered before finding out you also needed the reamer. Brian > On 5/12/2020 2:58 PM, Bob Leaver wrote: > I have a 1965 Triumph TR4a that I rebuilt the SU carbs and now I can't > get the idle below about 1500. I've tried all the screws and checked > all gaskets and nothing. The only possibility I can come up with is > air getting around the shafts. When rebuilding the cars I didn't > replace the shafts because I didn't have a reamer. Moss has a reamer > for $290.00. I looked on line and can't find a less expensive > replacement. The book states the size of the reamer is 5/16" + > 0.0105". What kind of measurement is this? Can you use a 5/16" reamer? > Does anyone have ideas how I can get the idle down? Does anyone know > of a cheaper reamer to use? Thanks, Bob > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bk13 at earthlink.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com From notakitcar at yahoo.com Tue May 12 20:36:20 2020 From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher) Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 21:36:20 -0500 Subject: [TR] fast idle problem In-Reply-To: <50c8403f-035d-4e42-c62f-dd9eb59a3c82@earthlink.net> References: <50c8403f-035d-4e42-c62f-dd9eb59a3c82@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <785B365C-A309-4574-B03D-91AA14E6FFE7@yahoo.com> Save the grief at about the same cost, send off to Joe Curto for new bushes and shafts. You will know it?s right, your TR will thank you. NFI Serenity Now...... On May 12, 2020, at 8:32 PM, Brian Kemp wrote: ?Bob - You may want to see if you have someplace local that can ream the carbs for you. One of these days I'll be taking mine to a local guy that rebuilds carbs out of his garage. I have the parts from a TRF kit that I ordered before finding out you also needed the reamer. Brian > On 5/12/2020 2:58 PM, Bob Leaver wrote: > I have a 1965 Triumph TR4a that I rebuilt the SU carbs and now I can't > get the idle below about 1500. I've tried all the screws and checked > all gaskets and nothing. The only possibility I can come up with is > air getting around the shafts. When rebuilding the cars I didn't > replace the shafts because I didn't have a reamer. Moss has a reamer > for $290.00. I looked on line and can't find a less expensive > replacement. The book states the size of the reamer is 5/16" + > 0.0105". What kind of measurement is this? Can you use a 5/16" reamer? > Does anyone have ideas how I can get the idle down? Does anyone know > of a cheaper reamer to use? Thanks, Bob > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bk13 at earthlink.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com From grglmn at gmail.com Tue May 12 20:44:45 2020 From: grglmn at gmail.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 21:44:45 -0500 Subject: [TR] Ideas, anyone? In-Reply-To: References: <001d01d628a7$ea379910$bea6cb30$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: > > Did you do the rocker shaft and rocker arm bushings, have heard if > extremely worn it can adversely affect oil pressure--also--easier than a > full engine teardown. Also, I know you said in spec, but try a different > oil pump? Just some thoughts short of a full teardown--did you or someone plastiguage the bearings before install? Greg Lemon TR250 > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From don.hiscock at gmail.com Tue May 12 20:47:30 2020 From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 21:47:30 -0500 Subject: [TR] Ideas, anyone? In-Reply-To: References: <001d01d628a7$ea379910$bea6cb30$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: In general, yes the TR3B has the same pressure relief as any TR3A. On Tuesday, May 12, 2020, Jeff Scarbrough wrote: > Does the TR3B not have an oil pressure relief valve with associated spring? > > On Tue, May 12, 2020 at 6:27 PM andrew uprichard > wrote: > >> Having (I think) sorted out the problem with the TR4, I took a >> recently-finished TR3B out for its second inaugural drive. >> >> >> >> The first inaugural drive went pretty well, but once the engine temp came >> up, the oil pressure fell like a stone ? and here we are talking around >> 40psi at 3000rpm and almost nothing at (what was hot) idle. Adjusting the >> pressure with the screw on the oil filter head did nothing. >> >> >> >> I checked everything over, even pulled the oil pan and checked all the >> bearings (one main and 4 rods) ? all perfect. I really didn?t find >> anything, and the specs on the oil pump looked good, but I ordered a new >> pump as well as a new spring for the Purolator oil filter head (the valve >> itself is no longer obtainable). >> >> >> >> So today when I first took it out, the pressure was almost too high ? >> around 90 at 3000 rpm. But as soon as the engine warmed up, it again >> dropped to scary levels. No leaks, no oil in water or vice versa. >> >> >> >> I am running out of ideas here. Could it be a bad oil filter head? >> Anything else? >> >> >> >> Andrew Uprichard >> >> Jackson, Michigan >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs >> http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ >> options/triumphs/fishplate at gmail.com >> > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cliff_hansen at outlook.com Tue May 12 21:54:06 2020 From: cliff_hansen at outlook.com (Cliff Hansen) Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 03:54:06 +0000 Subject: [TR] fast idle problem In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: Bob, Are you sure the linkage is allowing the butterflies to close completely? That was the problem I had when I first put the rebuilt carbs back on my car. Cliff Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Michael Marr Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2020 9:03 PM To: Bob Leaver; Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] fast idle problem The Moss reamer cuts a hole that is 10 thousands (nominal) oversize, and requires you to use ten thousandths oversize throttle shafts. The reamer has an extended pilot, so that, even when reaming by hand, the alignment between the holes on each side of the throttle body is maintained. To that extent, it is a special reamer, which accounts for its price. I found other piloted reamers, but they are chucking reamers and the pilot is quite short, so you would have to set the carb body up on a good drill press (or vertical mill, preferably) with the axis of the throttle bushing holes perfectly vertical. The body would have to be clamped to an angle plate in some manner. Such a reamer, of the right size, can be found here... https://www.panamericantool.com/high-speed-steel-reamers/high-speed-steel-piloted-chucking-reamers.html Part number 99-703 is what you would want. But, unless you've done this kind of set-up before, I wouldn't recommend doing this. I think sending the bodies out to have new oversized shafts fitted might be the most expedient thing. Mike Michael J Marr, P.E., CEng. Albion Technical Services W5918 Hackbarth Rd Fort Atkinson, WI 53538 Cell: 630-202-0065 Email: mmarr at albiontechnical.com -----Original Message----- From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Bob Leaver Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2020 4:58 PM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] fast idle problem I have a 1965 Triumph TR4a that I rebuilt the SU carbs and now I can't get the idle below about 1500. I've tried all the screws and checked all gaskets and nothing. The only possibility I can come up with is air getting around the shafts. When rebuilding the cars I didn't replace the shafts because I didn't have a reamer. Moss has a reamer for $290.00. I looked on line and can't find a less expensive replacement. The book states the size of the reamer is 5/16" + 0.0105". What kind of measurement is this? Can you use a 5/16" reamer? Does anyone have ideas how I can get the idle down? Does anyone know of a cheaper reamer to use? Thanks, Bob ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=3JrDLbJKoSWVmzxR9yAqEY_Qj1O6UBBa9gaq3qfosU0&s=fcams_IcyTxT42KTTKzdgPpET42jYRovw8nyOkWYl1I&e= Archive: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_pipermail_triumphs&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=3JrDLbJKoSWVmzxR9yAqEY_Qj1O6UBBa9gaq3qfosU0&s=tt8izdlC0lb0YIDeBxoLKz6KFf6pFO7PYqZED3LJLGI&e= https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_archive&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=3JrDLbJKoSWVmzxR9yAqEY_Qj1O6UBBa9gaq3qfosU0&s=YzdZFWtTjhGEow2RCr23bxZPySU7oxypkclzKL3hl5s&e= Unsubscribe/Manage: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_mailman_options_triumphs_mmarr-40albiontechnical.com&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=3JrDLbJKoSWVmzxR9yAqEY_Qj1O6UBBa9gaq3qfosU0&s=n13_oCFuCopTUYc-K9K4IEfSbvoh9bLu26krBSX150U&e= ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cliff_hansen at outlook.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From aljlthomson at charter.net Wed May 13 03:57:50 2020 From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson) Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 05:57:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] Ideas, anyone? In-Reply-To: <001d01d628a7$ea379910$bea6cb30$@uprichard.net> References: <001d01d628a7$ea379910$bea6cb30$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <003401d6290c$f6e57eb0$e4b07c10$@charter.net> Was the crankshaft cut down by a previous owner for use with undersize bearing shells? I saw this happen in a Nuffield tractor once. Great oil pressure at startup but diminishing quickly as the oil thinned out. Alex Thomson From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of andrew uprichard Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2020 5:54 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Ideas, anyone? Having (I think) sorted out the problem with the TR4, I took a recently-finished TR3B out for its second inaugural drive. The first inaugural drive went pretty well, but once the engine temp came up, the oil pressure fell like a stone - and here we are talking around 40psi at 3000rpm and almost nothing at (what was hot) idle. Adjusting the pressure with the screw on the oil filter head did nothing. I checked everything over, even pulled the oil pan and checked all the bearings (one main and 4 rods) - all perfect. I really didn't find anything, and the specs on the oil pump looked good, but I ordered a new pump as well as a new spring for the Purolator oil filter head (the valve itself is no longer obtainable). So today when I first took it out, the pressure was almost too high - around 90 at 3000 rpm. But as soon as the engine warmed up, it again dropped to scary levels. No leaks, no oil in water or vice versa. I am running out of ideas here. Could it be a bad oil filter head? Anything else? Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From auprichard at uprichard.net Wed May 13 05:34:33 2020 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (andrew uprichard) Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 07:34:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] Ideas, anyone? In-Reply-To: <003401d6290c$f6e57eb0$e4b07c10$@charter.net> References: <001d01d628a7$ea379910$bea6cb30$@uprichard.net> <003401d6290c$f6e57eb0$e4b07c10$@charter.net> Message-ID: <00a401d6291a$7a3a2dd0$6eae8970$@uprichard.net> Thanks for al the suggestions. Gauge is good, have tried a new oil pump. I think the next step is to plastigauge the bearings and check the rocker shaft, as suggested. Then I guess the engine will have to come out. Sigh... From: Alex & Janet Thomson Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2020 5:58 AM To: 'andrew uprichard' ; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [TR] Ideas, anyone? Was the crankshaft cut down by a previous owner for use with undersize bearing shells? I saw this happen in a Nuffield tractor once. Great oil pressure at startup but diminishing quickly as the oil thinned out. Alex Thomson From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of andrew uprichard Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2020 5:54 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Ideas, anyone? Having (I think) sorted out the problem with the TR4, I took a recently-finished TR3B out for its second inaugural drive. The first inaugural drive went pretty well, but once the engine temp came up, the oil pressure fell like a stone - and here we are talking around 40psi at 3000rpm and almost nothing at (what was hot) idle. Adjusting the pressure with the screw on the oil filter head did nothing. I checked everything over, even pulled the oil pan and checked all the bearings (one main and 4 rods) - all perfect. I really didn't find anything, and the specs on the oil pump looked good, but I ordered a new pump as well as a new spring for the Purolator oil filter head (the valve itself is no longer obtainable). So today when I first took it out, the pressure was almost too high - around 90 at 3000 rpm. But as soon as the engine warmed up, it again dropped to scary levels. No leaks, no oil in water or vice versa. I am running out of ideas here. Could it be a bad oil filter head? Anything else? Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fogbro1 at comcast.net Wed May 13 07:41:14 2020 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (EDWARD WOODS) Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 09:41:14 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] fast idle problem In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1116471643.290641.1589377275062@connect.xfinity.com> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From terryrs at comcast.net Wed May 13 07:49:59 2020 From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH) Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 09:49:59 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Ideas, anyone? In-Reply-To: <00a401d6291a$7a3a2dd0$6eae8970$@uprichard.net> References: <001d01d628a7$ea379910$bea6cb30$@uprichard.net> <003401d6290c$f6e57eb0$e4b07c10$@charter.net> <00a401d6291a$7a3a2dd0$6eae8970$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <153542950.649206.1589377800092@connect.xfinity.com> I've never heard of such a thing, but could the oil itself be the culprit? Maybe a too thin variety got into a wrong bottle? Or maybe just a bad batch? > On May 13, 2020 at 7:34 AM andrew uprichard wrote: > > > Thanks for al the suggestions. Gauge is good, have tried a new oil pump. I think the next step is to plastigauge the bearings and check the rocker shaft, as suggested. Then I guess the engine will have to come out. Sigh?.. > > > > From: Alex & Janet Thomson > Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2020 5:58 AM > To: 'andrew uprichard' ; triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: RE: [TR] Ideas, anyone? > > > > Was the crankshaft cut down by a previous owner for use with undersize bearing shells? I saw this happen in a Nuffield tractor once. Great oil pressure at startup but diminishing quickly as the oil thinned out. > > > > Alex Thomson > > > > From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of andrew uprichard > Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2020 5:54 PM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] Ideas, anyone? > > > > Having (I think) sorted out the problem with the TR4, I took a recently-finished TR3B out for its second inaugural drive. > > > > The first inaugural drive went pretty well, but once the engine temp came up, the oil pressure fell like a stone ? and here we are talking around 40psi at 3000rpm and almost nothing at (what was hot) idle. Adjusting the pressure with the screw on the oil filter head did nothing. > > > > I checked everything over, even pulled the oil pan and checked all the bearings (one main and 4 rods) ? all perfect. I really didn?t find anything, and the specs on the oil pump looked good, but I ordered a new pump as well as a new spring for the Purolator oil filter head (the valve itself is no longer obtainable). > > > > So today when I first took it out, the pressure was almost too high ? around 90 at 3000 rpm. But as soon as the engine warmed up, it again dropped to scary levels. No leaks, no oil in water or vice versa. > > > > I am running out of ideas here. Could it be a bad oil filter head? Anything else? > > > > Andrew Uprichard > > Jackson, Michigan > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From terryrs at comcast.net Wed May 13 08:33:36 2020 From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH) Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 10:33:36 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] fast idle problem In-Reply-To: <1116471643.290641.1589377275062@connect.xfinity.com> References: <1116471643.290641.1589377275062@connect.xfinity.com> Message-ID: <467401601.650438.1589380417146@connect.xfinity.com> Would forgetting to hook up the vacuum advance be a possibility? > On May 13, 2020 at 9:41 AM EDWARD WOODS wrote: > > Bob, > > Check the orientation of the throttle plate tapers as well as their centering. If the idle was adjustable, even roughly, prior to rebuilding, something's occurred during the rebuild to screw it up. Not the throttle shaft fitment. > > TR4A throttle shaft openings are bushed, so they should never have to be oversized. Just replace the bushings and fit standard diameter throttle shafts. If you can't find a local machine shop to do the work, send them to Joe Curto. > > Ed Woods > > > > > > On May 12, 2020 at 5:58 PM Bob Leaver < boleaver at gmail.com mailto:boleaver at gmail.com > wrote: > > > > > > I have a 1965 Triumph TR4a that I rebuilt the SU carbs and now I can't > > get the idle below about 1500. I've tried all the screws and checked > > all gaskets and nothing. The only possibility I can come up with is > > air getting around the shafts. When rebuilding the cars I didn't > > replace the shafts because I didn't have a reamer. Moss has a reamer > > for $290.00. I looked on line and can't find a less expensive > > replacement. The book states the size of the reamer is 5/16" + > > 0.0105". What kind of measurement is this? Can you use a 5/16" reamer? > > Does anyone have ideas how I can get the idle down? Does anyone know > > of a cheaper reamer to use? Thanks, Bob > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fogbro1 at comcast.net > > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From auprichard at uprichard.net Wed May 13 11:11:42 2020 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (andrew uprichard) Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 13:11:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] Randall Young (TR3 driver) Message-ID: <003101d62949$93dd65c0$bb983140$@uprichard.net> I have gone back and forth about posting this, but Randall is a friend of all of us, and I don't think he would mind me sharing. Last week I left a couple of vm messages, saying we were worried about him. This morning when I got up, I saw he had called and left a message at 3am EDT. The message was very garbled and disjointed but he said he was in a hospital and I heard other voices in the background, one of whom was saying "I'm your nurse, remember?" It was definitely Randall and I have no reason to believe the call was not genuine. If he is in hospital, I don't know why (but I can guess). I did try to call back, but didn't get through. I left him a message saying I was sorry to hear he was in hospital but that there were a lot of people who would be rooting for him. Please keep him in your thoughts and prayers. Andrew -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jbmills at roadrunner.com Wed May 13 12:25:27 2020 From: jbmills at roadrunner.com (Jim Mills) Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 11:25:27 -0700 Subject: [TR] Randall Young (TR3 driver) In-Reply-To: <003101d62949$93dd65c0$bb983140$@uprichard.net> References: <003101d62949$93dd65c0$bb983140$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <005e01d62953$e08a6940$a19f3bc0$@roadrunner.com> Thanks for the update Andrew. Thinking good thoughts here in Southern CA. Jim Mills From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of andrew uprichard Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2020 10:12 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Randall Young (TR3 driver) I have gone back and forth about posting this, but Randall is a friend of all of us, and I don't think he would mind me sharing. Last week I left a couple of vm messages, saying we were worried about him. This morning when I got up, I saw he had called and left a message at 3am EDT. The message was very garbled and disjointed but he said he was in a hospital and I heard other voices in the background, one of whom was saying "I'm your nurse, remember?" It was definitely Randall and I have no reason to believe the call was not genuine. If he is in hospital, I don't know why (but I can guess). I did try to call back, but didn't get through. I left him a message saying I was sorry to hear he was in hospital but that there were a lot of people who would be rooting for him. Please keep him in your thoughts and prayers. Andrew -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From grglmn at gmail.com Wed May 13 13:49:35 2020 From: grglmn at gmail.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 14:49:35 -0500 Subject: [TR] Randall Young (TR3 driver) In-Reply-To: <005e01d62953$e08a6940$a19f3bc0$@roadrunner.com> References: <003101d62949$93dd65c0$bb983140$@uprichard.net> <005e01d62953$e08a6940$a19f3bc0$@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: If there is anybody in the world I have never met face to face, but still consider a friend, it is Randall Young. Certainly a friend to all the Triumph community as well. I swear I saw a post either here or on BCF a short time ago where he apologized for a rare mistake then went on to mention briefly all the things going on out in the world, and it being a little overwhelming, which seemed out of character for him, but I can't seem to find it, and I could be mis-remembering. Wish him the best. Greg Lemon TR250 On Wed, May 13, 2020, 2:10 PM Jim Mills wrote: > Thanks for the update Andrew. Thinking good thoughts here in Southern CA. > > > > Jim Mills > > > > *From:* Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *andrew > uprichard > *Sent:* Wednesday, May 13, 2020 10:12 AM > *To:* triumphs at autox.team.net > *Subject:* [TR] Randall Young (TR3 driver) > > > > I have gone back and forth about posting this, but Randall is a friend of > all of us, and I don?t think he would mind me sharing. > > > > Last week I left a couple of vm messages, saying we were worried about > him. This morning when I got up, I saw he had called and left a message at > 3am EDT. > > > > The message was very garbled and disjointed but he said he was in a > hospital and I heard other voices in the background, one of whom was saying > ?I?m your nurse, remember?? > > > > It was definitely Randall and I have no reason to believe the call was not > genuine. If he is in hospital, I don?t know why (but I can guess). > > > > I did try to call back, but didn?t get through. I left him a message > saying I was sorry to hear he was in hospital but that there were a lot of > people who would be rooting for him. Please keep him in your thoughts and > prayers. > > > > Andrew > > > > > > > > > > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/grglmn at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mmarr at albiontechnical.com Wed May 13 13:58:41 2020 From: mmarr at albiontechnical.com (Michael Marr) Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 19:58:41 +0000 Subject: [TR] Randall Young (TR3 driver) In-Reply-To: <003101d62949$93dd65c0$bb983140$@uprichard.net> References: <003101d62949$93dd65c0$bb983140$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: Oh, wow! I hope he is OK. Thanks for letting us know, Andrew. Mike Michael J Marr, P.E., CEng. Albion Technical Services W5918 Hackbarth Rd Fort Atkinson, WI 53538 Cell: 630-202-0065 Email: mmarr at albiontechnical.com From: Triumphs On Behalf Of andrew uprichard Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2020 12:12 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Randall Young (TR3 driver) I have gone back and forth about posting this, but Randall is a friend of all of us, and I don't think he would mind me sharing. Last week I left a couple of vm messages, saying we were worried about him. This morning when I got up, I saw he had called and left a message at 3am EDT. The message was very garbled and disjointed but he said he was in a hospital and I heard other voices in the background, one of whom was saying "I'm your nurse, remember?" It was definitely Randall and I have no reason to believe the call was not genuine. If he is in hospital, I don't know why (but I can guess). I did try to call back, but didn't get through. I left him a message saying I was sorry to hear he was in hospital but that there were a lot of people who would be rooting for him. Please keep him in your thoughts and prayers. Andrew -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Wed May 13 14:46:36 2020 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 20:46:36 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Randall Young (TR3 driver) In-Reply-To: References: <003101d62949$93dd65c0$bb983140$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <1621605958.480931.1589402796413@mail.yahoo.com> i just contacted the so cal triumph club.i know Randall is a member as am i.hopefully some one knows he is OK.. Frank On Wednesday, May 13, 2020, 01:40:42 PM PDT, Michael Marr wrote: Oh, wow!? I hope he is OK.? Thanks for letting us know, Andrew. ? Mike ? Michael J Marr, P.E., CEng. Albion Technical Services W5918 Hackbarth Rd Fort Atkinson, WI 53538 ? Cell:? 630-202-0065 Email:? mmarr at albiontechnical.com ? From: Triumphs On Behalf Ofandrew uprichard Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2020 12:12 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Randall Young (TR3 driver) ? I have gone back and forth about posting this, but Randall is a friend of all of us, and I don?t think he would mind me sharing. ? Last week I left a couple of vm messages, saying we were worried about him. This morning when I got up, I saw he had called and left a message at 3am EDT. ? The message was very garbled and disjointed but he said he was in a hospital and I heard other voices in the background, one of whom was saying ?I?m your nurse, remember?? ? It was definitely Randall and I have no reason to believe the call was not genuine. If he is in hospital, I don?t know why (but I can guess).? ? I did try to call back, but didn?t get through. I left him a message saying I was sorry to hear he was in hospital but that there were a lot of people who would be rooting for him.? Please keep him in your thoughts and prayers. ? Andrew ? ? ? ? ? ? ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rbtr3a at cox.net Wed May 13 15:08:51 2020 From: rbtr3a at cox.net (Ronnie Babbitt) Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 17:08:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] Randall Young (TR3 driver) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thank you, after seeing your text. I too tried to contact him with no avail. Thank you for checking. Now I know how to pray for him. Ronnie Babbitt > On May 13, 2020, at 4:39 PM, Greg Lemon wrote: > > ? > If there is anybody in the world I have never met face to face, but still consider a friend, it is Randall Young. Certainly a friend to all the Triumph community as well. I swear I saw a post either here or on BCF a short time ago where he apologized for a rare mistake then went on to mention briefly all the things going on out in the world, and it being a little overwhelming, which seemed out of character for him, but I can't seem to find it, and I could be mis-remembering. > > Wish him the best. > > Greg Lemon > TR250 > >> On Wed, May 13, 2020, 2:10 PM Jim Mills wrote: >> Thanks for the update Andrew. Thinking good thoughts here in Southern CA. >> >> >> >> Jim Mills >> >> >> >> From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of andrew uprichard >> Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2020 10:12 AM >> To: triumphs at autox.team.net >> Subject: [TR] Randall Young (TR3 driver) >> >> >> >> I have gone back and forth about posting this, but Randall is a friend of all of us, and I don?t think he would mind me sharing. >> >> >> >> Last week I left a couple of vm messages, saying we were worried about him. This morning when I got up, I saw he had called and left a message at 3am EDT. >> >> >> >> The message was very garbled and disjointed but he said he was in a hospital and I heard other voices in the background, one of whom was saying ?I?m your nurse, remember?? >> >> >> >> It was definitely Randall and I have no reason to believe the call was not genuine. If he is in hospital, I don?t know why (but I can guess). >> >> >> >> I did try to call back, but didn?t get through. I left him a message saying I was sorry to hear he was in hospital but that there were a lot of people who would be rooting for him. Please keep him in your thoughts and prayers. >> >> >> >> Andrew >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/grglmn at gmail.com > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rbtr3a at cox.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mark at bradakis.com Wed May 13 15:38:36 2020 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 15:38:36 -0600 Subject: [TR] Possible Team Net outage Message-ID: <8502cb7c-f8cc-b7f8-63aa-f66eeb5af8ee@bradakis.com> We had some severe wind gusts in Salt Lake Monday afternoon, about half of a large tree blew over, sort of hitting the garage and some cars.? Take a look at http://bradakis.com/net_wire.jpg to get an idea of what happened.? Inside that marked off area you can see a black wire.? That is Team Net's connection to the world. Getting all the fallen branches off that wire is beyond my capabilities.? We've contacted some profession tree removers, haven't heard back yet, so not sure when the mess will be cleaned up. So basically if we get more wind gusts over the next day or two all that debris could shift and take out that network cable.? And Team Net would be off the air for who knows how long.? So be aware of that possibility.? If it happens, you might be seeing a status message from hoosierq at gmail.com that may look suspicious at first glance.? It will be from me. And another note, the old problem of delayed email seems to be occurring again.? Currently the delay is one the order of an hour or so, I'll be looking into the situation. Fun times indeed! mjb. From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Wed May 13 16:10:27 2020 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 15:10:27 -0700 Subject: [TR] Randall Young (TR3 driver) In-Reply-To: <003101d62949$93dd65c0$bb983140$@uprichard.net> References: <003101d62949$93dd65c0$bb983140$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: Andrew - I too appreciate the update. Checking Triumph Experience, it appears Randall last logged in the evening of May 11 (Monday): [image: image.png] Geo On Wed, May 13, 2020 at 11:08 AM andrew uprichard wrote: > I have gone back and forth about posting this, but Randall is a friend of > all of us, and I don?t think he would mind me sharing. > > > > Last week I left a couple of vm messages, saying we were worried about > him. This morning when I got up, I saw he had called and left a message at > 3am EDT. > > > > The message was very garbled and disjointed but he said he was in a > hospital and I heard other voices in the background, one of whom was saying > ?I?m your nurse, remember?? > > > > It was definitely Randall and I have no reason to believe the call was not > genuine. If he is in hospital, I don?t know why (but I can guess). > > > > I did try to call back, but didn?t get through. I left him a message > saying I was sorry to hear he was in hospital but that there were a lot of > people who would be rooting for him. Please keep him in your thoughts and > prayers. > > > > Andrew > > > > > > > > > > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 807303 bytes Desc: not available URL: From auprichard at uprichard.net Wed May 13 16:52:26 2020 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (andrew uprichard) Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 18:52:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Possible Team Net outage In-Reply-To: <92d765a1-cbc1-393b-15fa-34be71cb1b08@bradakis.com> References: <92d765a1-cbc1-393b-15fa-34be71cb1b08@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <013a01d62979$2d5783a0$88068ae0$@uprichard.net> But were the cars OK?? Andrew -----Original Message----- From: 6pack <6pack-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis via 6pack Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2020 6:01 PM To: list 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: [6pack] Possible Team Net outage We had some severe wind gusts in Salt Lake Monday afternoon, about half of a large tree blew over, sort of hitting the garage and some cars. Take a look at http://bradakis.com/net_wire.jpg to get an idea of what happened. Inside that marked off area you can see a black wire. That is Team Net's connection to the world. Getting all the fallen branches off that wire is beyond my capabilities. We've contacted some professional tree removers, haven't heard back yet, so not sure when the mess will be cleaned up. So basically if we get more wind gusts over the next day or two all that debris could shift and take out that network cable. And Team Net would be off the air for who knows how long. So be aware of that possibility. If it happens, you might be seeing a status message from hoosierq at gmail.com that may look suspicious at first glance. It will be from me. And another note, the old problem of delayed email seems to be occurring again. Currently the delay is one the order of an hour or so, I'll be looking into the situation. Fun times indeed! mjb. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/auprichard at uprichard.net From dorpaul1 at gmail.com Wed May 13 21:24:09 2020 From: dorpaul1 at gmail.com (Paul Dorsey) Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 23:24:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] Randall Young (TR3 driver) In-Reply-To: References: <003101d62949$93dd65c0$bb983140$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: My thoughts and prayers are with him. Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 On Wed, May 13, 2020 at 6:56 PM Geo Hahn wrote: > Andrew - > > I too appreciate the update. Checking Triumph Experience, it appears > Randall last logged in the evening of May 11 (Monday): > > [image: image.png] > > Geo > > On Wed, May 13, 2020 at 11:08 AM andrew uprichard < > auprichard at uprichard.net> wrote: > >> I have gone back and forth about posting this, but Randall is a friend of >> all of us, and I don?t think he would mind me sharing. >> >> >> >> Last week I left a couple of vm messages, saying we were worried about >> him. This morning when I got up, I saw he had called and left a message at >> 3am EDT. >> >> >> >> The message was very garbled and disjointed but he said he was in a >> hospital and I heard other voices in the background, one of whom was saying >> ?I?m your nurse, remember?? >> >> >> >> It was definitely Randall and I have no reason to believe the call was >> not genuine. If he is in hospital, I don?t know why (but I can guess). >> >> >> >> I did try to call back, but didn?t get through. I left him a message >> saying I was sorry to hear he was in hospital but that there were a lot of >> people who would be rooting for him. Please keep him in your thoughts and >> prayers. >> >> >> >> Andrew >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs >> http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com >> > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dorpaul1 at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 807303 bytes Desc: not available URL: From Randall.Reihing at utoledo.edu Thu May 14 03:17:20 2020 From: Randall.Reihing at utoledo.edu (Reihing, Randall S.) Date: Thu, 14 May 2020 09:17:20 +0000 Subject: [TR] [EXTERNAL] Re: Randall Young (TR3 driver) In-Reply-To: References: <003101d62949$93dd65c0$bb983140$@uprichard.net> , Message-ID: My thoughts and prayers are also with Randall and that whatever challenges he is facing can be overcome and successfully resolved with a full recovery. His advice and depth of knowledge for all things Triumph are legendary and unmatched and I have benefitted from many of them. If anyone has an address for a card or a letter I, and I am sure many others as well, would truly appreciate, being able to extend our best wishes. Sincerely, Randall Reihing 1959 TR3A 1960 TR3A ________________________________ From: Triumphs on behalf of Paul Dorsey Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2020 11:24 PM To: Geo Hahn Cc: Triumphs Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: [TR] Randall Young (TR3 driver) My thoughts and prayers are with him. Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 On Wed, May 13, 2020 at 6:56 PM Geo Hahn > wrote: Andrew - I too appreciate the update. Checking Triumph Experience, it appears Randall last logged in the evening of May 11 (Monday): [image.png] Geo On Wed, May 13, 2020 at 11:08 AM andrew uprichard > wrote: I have gone back and forth about posting this, but Randall is a friend of all of us, and I don?t think he would mind me sharing. Last week I left a couple of vm messages, saying we were worried about him. This morning when I got up, I saw he had called and left a message at 3am EDT. The message was very garbled and disjointed but he said he was in a hospital and I heard other voices in the background, one of whom was saying ?I?m your nurse, remember?? It was definitely Randall and I have no reason to believe the call was not genuine. If he is in hospital, I don?t know why (but I can guess). I did try to call back, but didn?t get through. I left him a message saying I was sorry to hear he was in hospital but that there were a lot of people who would be rooting for him. Please keep him in your thoughts and prayers. Andrew ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dorpaul1 at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 807303 bytes Desc: image.png URL: From L1j1s at aol.com Thu May 14 04:17:49 2020 From: L1j1s at aol.com (Lawarence Schwartz) Date: Thu, 14 May 2020 06:17:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] Randall Young (TR3 driver) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hello, Yes a true gentlemen and hope he is indeed ok. Larry Schwartz Sent from my iPhone > On May 14, 2020, at 12:18 AM, Paul Dorsey wrote: > > ? > My thoughts and prayers are with him. > Paul Dorsey > 60 TR3 > >> On Wed, May 13, 2020 at 6:56 PM Geo Hahn wrote: >> Andrew - >> >> I too appreciate the update. Checking Triumph Experience, it appears Randall last logged in the evening of May 11 (Monday): >> >> >> >> >> Geo >> >>> On Wed, May 13, 2020 at 11:08 AM andrew uprichard wrote: >>> I have gone back and forth about posting this, but Randall is a friend of all of us, and I don?t think he would mind me sharing. >>> >>> >>> >>> Last week I left a couple of vm messages, saying we were worried about him. This morning when I got up, I saw he had called and left a message at 3am EDT. >>> >>> >>> >>> The message was very garbled and disjointed but he said he was in a hospital and I heard other voices in the background, one of whom was saying ?I?m your nurse, remember?? >>> >>> >>> >>> It was definitely Randall and I have no reason to believe the call was not genuine. If he is in hospital, I don?t know why (but I can guess). >>> >>> >>> >>> I did try to call back, but didn?t get through. I left him a message saying I was sorry to hear he was in hospital but that there were a lot of people who would be rooting for him. Please keep him in your thoughts and prayers. >>> >>> >>> >>> Andrew >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dorpaul1 at gmail.com > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/l1j1s at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From L1j1s at aol.com Thu May 14 04:17:49 2020 From: L1j1s at aol.com (Lawarence Schwartz) Date: Thu, 14 May 2020 06:17:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] Randall Young (TR3 driver) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hello, Yes a true gentlemen and hope he is indeed ok. Larry Schwartz Sent from my iPhone > On May 14, 2020, at 12:18 AM, Paul Dorsey wrote: > > ? > My thoughts and prayers are with him. > Paul Dorsey > 60 TR3 > >> On Wed, May 13, 2020 at 6:56 PM Geo Hahn wrote: >> Andrew - >> >> I too appreciate the update. Checking Triumph Experience, it appears Randall last logged in the evening of May 11 (Monday): >> >> >> >> >> Geo >> >>> On Wed, May 13, 2020 at 11:08 AM andrew uprichard wrote: >>> I have gone back and forth about posting this, but Randall is a friend of all of us, and I don?t think he would mind me sharing. >>> >>> >>> >>> Last week I left a couple of vm messages, saying we were worried about him. This morning when I got up, I saw he had called and left a message at 3am EDT. >>> >>> >>> >>> The message was very garbled and disjointed but he said he was in a hospital and I heard other voices in the background, one of whom was saying ?I?m your nurse, remember?? >>> >>> >>> >>> It was definitely Randall and I have no reason to believe the call was not genuine. If he is in hospital, I don?t know why (but I can guess). >>> >>> >>> >>> I did try to call back, but didn?t get through. I left him a message saying I was sorry to hear he was in hospital but that there were a lot of people who would be rooting for him. Please keep him in your thoughts and prayers. >>> >>> >>> >>> Andrew >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dorpaul1 at gmail.com > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/l1j1s at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From terryrs at comcast.net Thu May 14 07:43:34 2020 From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH) Date: Thu, 14 May 2020 09:43:34 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Randall Message-ID: <1259161903.780514.1589463815148@connect.xfinity.com> I share sentiment of everyone here in wishing Randall well. I have deep faith in him, though. I can't stop picturing him recuperating in bed at the same time re-engineering all the equipment in his hospital room. Wish we could send him flowers. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A since 2004. New Hampshire -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From notakitcar at yahoo.com Thu May 14 10:54:08 2020 From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher) Date: Thu, 14 May 2020 11:54:08 -0500 Subject: [TR] Randall In-Reply-To: <1259161903.780514.1589463815148@connect.xfinity.com> References: <1259161903.780514.1589463815148@connect.xfinity.com> Message-ID: <40D1291D-ECBC-4279-8EDF-36DF9F96E145@yahoo.com> So many times Randall?s advice has been spot-on, best wishes for a speedy recovery. If we send cards to the VTR address will they be forwarded? Bill B TS30800L Serenity Now...... On May 14, 2020, at 9:41 AM, TERRY SMITH wrote: ? I share sentiment of everyone here in wishing Randall well. I have deep faith in him, though. I can't stop picturing him recuperating in bed at the same time re-engineering all the equipment in his hospital room. Wish we could send him flowers. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A since 2004. New Hampshire ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From notakitcar at yahoo.com Thu May 14 10:54:08 2020 From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher) Date: Thu, 14 May 2020 11:54:08 -0500 Subject: [TR] Randall In-Reply-To: <1259161903.780514.1589463815148@connect.xfinity.com> References: <1259161903.780514.1589463815148@connect.xfinity.com> Message-ID: <40D1291D-ECBC-4279-8EDF-36DF9F96E145@yahoo.com> So many times Randall?s advice has been spot-on, best wishes for a speedy recovery. If we send cards to the VTR address will they be forwarded? Bill B TS30800L Serenity Now...... On May 14, 2020, at 9:41 AM, TERRY SMITH wrote: ? I share sentiment of everyone here in wishing Randall well. I have deep faith in him, though. I can't stop picturing him recuperating in bed at the same time re-engineering all the equipment in his hospital room. Wish we could send him flowers. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A since 2004. New Hampshire ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From boleaver at gmail.com Thu May 14 19:01:18 2020 From: boleaver at gmail.com (Bob Leaver) Date: Thu, 14 May 2020 19:01:18 -0600 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 13, Issue 120 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I think I have found the problem with my fast idle. I used propane with a small metal straw like attachment to move around all the places that might leak, all gaskets, manifold, throttle shaft, all areas on the carb. None of them showed any increase in rpm therefore it must have had a problem elsewhere. I've disconnected the coupling rod so only one carb works. I took the carb off again for about the 5th time to reexamine the throttle discs. As I shined a light up the bottom pushing up the piston and checked out the discs I noticed more light than seems good. I loosened the screws and tinkered with the discs to try and adjust them so there was less light. I managed to get them adjusted pretty well. I put all back together again and whala the idle came down to where it should be. I'm so glad I didn't have to buy the reamer. I appreciate all the help you gave me. Thanks!!! On Wed, May 13, 2020 at 12:36 PM wrote: > > Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to > triumphs at autox.team.net > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > triumphs-request at autox.team.net > > You can reach the person managing the list at > triumphs-owner at autox.team.net > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..." > Today's Topics: > > 1. Ideas, anyone? (andrew uprichard) > 2. fast idle problem (Bob Leaver) > 3. Re: fast idle problem (andrew uprichard) > 4. Re: fast idle problem (Dave Connitt) > 5. Re: fast idle problem (William Pugh) > 6. Re: Ideas, anyone? (Dave) > 7. Re: fast idle problem (Mark J Bradakis) > 8. Re: fast idle problem (Brian Kemp) > 9. Re: fast idle problem (DAVID MASSEY) > 10. Re: fast idle problem (Jack McGahey) > 11. Re: fast idle problem (Jack McGahey) > 12. Re: Ideas, anyone? (Jeff Scarbrough) > 13. Re: fast idle problem (Michael Marr) > 14. Re: fast idle problem (bill beecher) > 15. Re: fast idle problem (bill beecher) > 16. Re: Ideas, anyone? (Greg Lemon) > 17. Re: Ideas, anyone? (Don Hiscock) > 18. Re: fast idle problem (Cliff Hansen) > 19. Re: Ideas, anyone? (Alex & Janet Thomson) > 20. Re: Ideas, anyone? (andrew uprichard) > 21. Re: fast idle problem (EDWARD WOODS) > 22. Re: Ideas, anyone? (TERRY SMITH) > 23. Re: fast idle problem (TERRY SMITH) > 24. Randall Young (TR3 driver) (andrew uprichard) > > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: andrew uprichard > To: > Cc: > Bcc: > Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 17:54:29 -0400 > Subject: [TR] Ideas, anyone? > > Having (I think) sorted out the problem with the TR4, I took a recently-finished TR3B out for its second inaugural drive. > > > > The first inaugural drive went pretty well, but once the engine temp came up, the oil pressure fell like a stone ? and here we are talking around 40psi at 3000rpm and almost nothing at (what was hot) idle. Adjusting the pressure with the screw on the oil filter head did nothing. > > > > I checked everything over, even pulled the oil pan and checked all the bearings (one main and 4 rods) ? all perfect. I really didn?t find anything, and the specs on the oil pump looked good, but I ordered a new pump as well as a new spring for the Purolator oil filter head (the valve itself is no longer obtainable). > > > > So today when I first took it out, the pressure was almost too high ? around 90 at 3000 rpm. But as soon as the engine warmed up, it again dropped to scary levels. No leaks, no oil in water or vice versa. > > > > I am running out of ideas here. Could it be a bad oil filter head? Anything else? > > > > Andrew Uprichard > > Jackson, Michigan > > > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: Bob Leaver > To: Triumphs at autox.team.net > Cc: > Bcc: > Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 15:58:26 -0600 > Subject: [TR] fast idle problem > I have a 1965 Triumph TR4a that I rebuilt the SU carbs and now I can't > get the idle below about 1500. I've tried all the screws and checked > all gaskets and nothing. The only possibility I can come up with is > air getting around the shafts. When rebuilding the cars I didn't > replace the shafts because I didn't have a reamer. Moss has a reamer > for $290.00. I looked on line and can't find a less expensive > replacement. The book states the size of the reamer is 5/16" + > 0.0105". What kind of measurement is this? Can you use a 5/16" reamer? > Does anyone have ideas how I can get the idle down? Does anyone know > of a cheaper reamer to use? Thanks, Bob > > > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: andrew uprichard > To: "'Bob Leaver'" > Cc: > Bcc: > Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 18:52:11 -0400 > Subject: Re: [TR] fast idle problem > What if you push the shaft down manually? Is it maybe just stiff or getting > caught up? And is your timing correct? > > Andrew Uprichard > Jackson, Michigan > > -----Original Message----- > From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Bob Leaver > Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2020 5:58 PM > To: Triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] fast idle problem > > I have a 1965 Triumph TR4a that I rebuilt the SU carbs and now I can't get > the idle below about 1500. I've tried all the screws and checked all gaskets > and nothing. The only possibility I can come up with is air getting around > the shafts. When rebuilding the cars I didn't replace the shafts because I > didn't have a reamer. Moss has a reamer for $290.00. I looked on line and > can't find a less expensive replacement. The book states the size of the > reamer is 5/16" + 0.0105". What kind of measurement is this? Can you use a > 5/16" reamer? > Does anyone have ideas how I can get the idle down? Does anyone know of a > cheaper reamer to use? Thanks, Bob > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net > > > > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: Dave Connitt > To: Bob Leaver > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net > Bcc: > Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 19:09:54 -0400 > Subject: Re: [TR] fast idle problem > Bob, you might contact Joe Curto? He rebushed and fitted new throttle shafts in my SU?s several years ago and it was less than $300.00. Plus he has done it before (grin) > Dave Connitt > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On May 12, 2020, at 6:27 PM, Bob Leaver wrote: > > > > ?I have a 1965 Triumph TR4a that I rebuilt the SU carbs and now I can't > > get the idle below about 1500. I've tried all the screws and checked > > all gaskets and nothing. The only possibility I can come up with is > > air getting around the shafts. When rebuilding the cars I didn't > > replace the shafts because I didn't have a reamer. Moss has a reamer > > for $290.00. I looked on line and can't find a less expensive > > replacement. The book states the size of the reamer is 5/16" + > > 0.0105". What kind of measurement is this? Can you use a 5/16" reamer? > > Does anyone have ideas how I can get the idle down? Does anyone know > > of a cheaper reamer to use? Thanks, Bob > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dconnitt at fuse.net > > > > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: William Pugh > To: Bob Leaver > Cc: Triumphs at autox.team.net > Bcc: > Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 16:24:04 -0700 > Subject: Re: [TR] fast idle problem > There is a great book (How to repair your Foreign Car) Chapter 13 > > ?Carburetor? Is French Word Meaning > > ?Leave it alone? > > One last thing (for all) if you really want to improve the handling?s of a TR6 ? install a Rear Sway Bar ? installation is not simple but can be done in a day and That will blow your mind. > > > > On May 12, 2020, at 2:58 PM, Bob Leaver wrote: > > I have a 1965 Triumph TR4a that I rebuilt the SU carbs and now I can't > get the idle below about 1500. I've tried all the screws and checked > all gaskets and nothing. The only possibility I can come up with is > air getting around the shafts. When rebuilding the cars I didn't > replace the shafts because I didn't have a reamer. Moss has a reamer > for $290.00. I looked on line and can't find a less expensive > replacement. The book states the size of the reamer is 5/16" + > 0.0105". What kind of measurement is this? Can you use a 5/16" reamer? > Does anyone have ideas how I can get the idle down? Does anyone know > of a cheaper reamer to use? Thanks, Bob > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/anabil007 at comcast.net > > > Life is too short > to drive Boring Cars > > > > > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: Dave > To: andrew uprichard > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net > Bcc: > Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 16:31:44 -0700 > Subject: Re: [TR] Ideas, anyone? > Have you compared to another gauge? Maybe inline running the dash gauge too. > I have heard that a badly worn front cam bearing can cause low oil pressure issues. This bearing doesn't usually get replaced during a rebuild, even when the other cam bearings do, but they can get heavy wear. > Dave H. > > Sent from my iPad > > On May 12, 2020, at 2:54 PM, andrew uprichard wrote: > > Having (I think) sorted out the problem with the TR4, I took a recently-finished TR3B out for its second inaugural drive. > > > > The first inaugural drive went pretty well, but once the engine temp came up, the oil pressure fell like a stone ? and here we are talking around 40psi at 3000rpm and almost nothing at (what was hot) idle. Adjusting the pressure with the screw on the oil filter head did nothing. > > > > I checked everything over, even pulled the oil pan and checked all the bearings (one main and 4 rods) ? all perfect. I really didn?t find anything, and the specs on the oil pump looked good, but I ordered a new pump as well as a new spring for the Purolator oil filter head (the valve itself is no longer obtainable). > > > > So today when I first took it out, the pressure was almost too high ? around 90 at 3000 rpm. But as soon as the engine warmed up, it again dropped to scary levels. No leaks, no oil in water or vice versa. > > > > I am running out of ideas here. Could it be a bad oil filter head? Anything else? > > > > Andrew Uprichard > > Jackson, Michigan > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye at comcast.net > > > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: Mark J Bradakis > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Cc: > Bcc: > Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 17:44:56 -0600 > Subject: Re: [TR] fast idle problem > Have you tried spraying carb cleaner around the carbs, the carb/manifold > mating surface, the manifold/head joint? Have you balanced the carbs? > Are you sure it is not just the linkage hanging up somewhere? > > mjb. > > > > > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: Brian Kemp > To: Bob Leaver > Cc: Triumphs at autox.team.net > Bcc: > Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 17:33:27 -0700 > Subject: Re: [TR] fast idle problem > Bob - You may want to see if you have someplace local that can ream the > carbs for you. One of these days I'll be taking mine to a local guy > that rebuilds carbs out of his garage. I have the parts from a TRF kit > that I ordered before finding out you also needed the reamer. > > Brian > > On 5/12/2020 2:58 PM, Bob Leaver wrote: > > I have a 1965 Triumph TR4a that I rebuilt the SU carbs and now I can't > > get the idle below about 1500. I've tried all the screws and checked > > all gaskets and nothing. The only possibility I can come up with is > > air getting around the shafts. When rebuilding the cars I didn't > > replace the shafts because I didn't have a reamer. Moss has a reamer > > for $290.00. I looked on line and can't find a less expensive > > replacement. The book states the size of the reamer is 5/16" + > > 0.0105". What kind of measurement is this? Can you use a 5/16" reamer? > > Does anyone have ideas how I can get the idle down? Does anyone know > > of a cheaper reamer to use? Thanks, Bob > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bk13 at earthlink.net > > > > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: DAVID MASSEY > To: "boleaver at gmail.com" , "Triumphs at autox.team.net" > Cc: > Bcc: > Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 00:34:33 +0000 (UTC) > Subject: Re: [TR] fast idle problem > Did you get the throttle plate centered? If it is not centered it will hit the throat on one side while there is still a big gap on the other. > > Dave > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Bob Leaver > To: Triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Tue, May 12, 2020 4:58 pm > Subject: [TR] fast idle problem > > I have a 1965 Triumph TR4a that I rebuilt the SU carbs and now I can't > get the idle below about 1500. I've tried all the screws and checked > all gaskets and nothing. The only possibility I can come up with is > air getting around the shafts. When rebuilding the cars I didn't > replace the shafts because I didn't have a reamer. Moss has a reamer > for $290.00. I looked on line and can't find a less expensive > replacement. The book states the size of the reamer is 5/16" + > 0.0105". What kind of measurement is this? Can you use a 5/16" reamer? > Does anyone have ideas how I can get the idle down? Does anyone know > of a cheaper reamer to use? Thanks, Bob > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com > > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: Jack McGahey > To: Bob Leaver > Cc: Triumphs at autox.team.net > Bcc: > Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 20:54:33 -0400 > Subject: Re: [TR] fast idle problem > I doubt very seriously that your shaft bushings are leaking enough air to maintain a 1500 rpm idle - the shafts would have to be REALLY loose in their bushings and you?d probably notice - probably the butterflies are not closing completely as the should be if you?ve backed the idle screws out all the way as your post implies you have - You can start by disconnecting the throttle linkage from the carbs - then, if the butterflies close and drop the idle to zero, you can work backwards to see what about the linkage is holding them open. > > If you need shafts and bushings anyway, I?d forget buying a reamer - Joe Curto will do all the machining and replace the bushings and shafts in both carbs for $150 plus shipping both ways. > > Cheers, > Jack Mc > > > > Sent from my iPad > > > On May 12, 2020, at 6:27 PM, Bob Leaver wrote: > > > > ?I have a 1965 Triumph TR4a that I rebuilt the SU carbs and now I can't > > get the idle below about 1500. I've tried all the screws and checked > > all gaskets and nothing. The only possibility I can come up with is > > air getting around the shafts. When rebuilding the cars I didn't > > replace the shafts because I didn't have a reamer. Moss has a reamer > > for $290.00. I looked on line and can't find a less expensive > > replacement. The book states the size of the reamer is 5/16" + > > 0.0105". What kind of measurement is this? Can you use a 5/16" reamer? > > Does anyone have ideas how I can get the idle down? Does anyone know > > of a cheaper reamer to use? Thanks, Bob > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mcgaheyrx at aol.com > > > > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: Jack McGahey > To: Bob Leaver > Cc: Triumphs at autox.team.net > Bcc: > Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 20:54:33 -0400 > Subject: Re: [TR] fast idle problem > I doubt very seriously that your shaft bushings are leaking enough air to maintain a 1500 rpm idle - the shafts would have to be REALLY loose in their bushings and you?d probably notice - probably the butterflies are not closing completely as the should be if you?ve backed the idle screws out all the way as your post implies you have - You can start by disconnecting the throttle linkage from the carbs - then, if the butterflies close and drop the idle to zero, you can work backwards to see what about the linkage is holding them open. > > If you need shafts and bushings anyway, I?d forget buying a reamer - Joe Curto will do all the machining and replace the bushings and shafts in both carbs for $150 plus shipping both ways. > > Cheers, > Jack Mc > > > > Sent from my iPad > > > On May 12, 2020, at 6:27 PM, Bob Leaver wrote: > > > > ?I have a 1965 Triumph TR4a that I rebuilt the SU carbs and now I can't > > get the idle below about 1500. I've tried all the screws and checked > > all gaskets and nothing. The only possibility I can come up with is > > air getting around the shafts. When rebuilding the cars I didn't > > replace the shafts because I didn't have a reamer. Moss has a reamer > > for $290.00. I looked on line and can't find a less expensive > > replacement. The book states the size of the reamer is 5/16" + > > 0.0105". What kind of measurement is this? Can you use a 5/16" reamer? > > Does anyone have ideas how I can get the idle down? Does anyone know > > of a cheaper reamer to use? Thanks, Bob > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mcgaheyrx at aol.com > > > > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: Jeff Scarbrough > To: "Triumphs (triumphs at autox.team.net)" > Cc: > Bcc: > Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 21:20:16 -0400 > Subject: Re: [TR] Ideas, anyone? > Does the TR3B not have an oil pressure relief valve with associated spring? > > On Tue, May 12, 2020 at 6:27 PM andrew uprichard wrote: >> >> Having (I think) sorted out the problem with the TR4, I took a recently-finished TR3B out for its second inaugural drive. >> >> >> >> The first inaugural drive went pretty well, but once the engine temp came up, the oil pressure fell like a stone ? and here we are talking around 40psi at 3000rpm and almost nothing at (what was hot) idle. Adjusting the pressure with the screw on the oil filter head did nothing. >> >> >> >> I checked everything over, even pulled the oil pan and checked all the bearings (one main and 4 rods) ? all perfect. I really didn?t find anything, and the specs on the oil pump looked good, but I ordered a new pump as well as a new spring for the Purolator oil filter head (the valve itself is no longer obtainable). >> >> >> >> So today when I first took it out, the pressure was almost too high ? around 90 at 3000 rpm. But as soon as the engine warmed up, it again dropped to scary levels. No leaks, no oil in water or vice versa. >> >> >> >> I am running out of ideas here. Could it be a bad oil filter head? Anything else? >> >> >> >> Andrew Uprichard >> >> Jackson, Michigan >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fishplate at gmail.com > > > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: Michael Marr > To: Bob Leaver , "Triumphs at autox.team.net" > Cc: > Bcc: > Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 01:40:50 +0000 > Subject: Re: [TR] fast idle problem > The Moss reamer cuts a hole that is 10 thousands (nominal) oversize, and requires you to use ten thousandths oversize throttle shafts. The reamer has an extended pilot, so that, even when reaming by hand, the alignment between the holes on each side of the throttle body is maintained. To that extent, it is a special reamer, which accounts for its price. I found other piloted reamers, but they are chucking reamers and the pilot is quite short, so you would have to set the carb body up on a good drill press (or vertical mill, preferably) with the axis of the throttle bushing holes perfectly vertical. The body would have to be clamped to an angle plate in some manner. Such a reamer, of the right size, can be found here... > > https://www.panamericantool.com/high-speed-steel-reamers/high-speed-steel-piloted-chucking-reamers.html > > Part number 99-703 is what you would want. But, unless you've done this kind of set-up before, I wouldn't recommend doing this. I think sending the bodies out to have new oversized shafts fitted might be the most expedient thing. > > Mike > > > Michael J Marr, P.E., CEng. > Albion Technical Services > W5918 Hackbarth Rd > Fort Atkinson, WI 53538 > > Cell: 630-202-0065 > Email: mmarr at albiontechnical.com > > -----Original Message----- > From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Bob Leaver > Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2020 4:58 PM > To: Triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] fast idle problem > > I have a 1965 Triumph TR4a that I rebuilt the SU carbs and now I can't get the idle below about 1500. I've tried all the screws and checked all gaskets and nothing. The only possibility I can come up with is air getting around the shafts. When rebuilding the cars I didn't replace the shafts because I didn't have a reamer. Moss has a reamer for $290.00. I looked on line and can't find a less expensive replacement. The book states the size of the reamer is 5/16" + 0.0105". What kind of measurement is this? Can you use a 5/16" reamer? > Does anyone have ideas how I can get the idle down? Does anyone know of a cheaper reamer to use? Thanks, Bob > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=3JrDLbJKoSWVmzxR9yAqEY_Qj1O6UBBa9gaq3qfosU0&s=fcams_IcyTxT42KTTKzdgPpET42jYRovw8nyOkWYl1I&e= > Archive: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_pipermail_triumphs&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=3JrDLbJKoSWVmzxR9yAqEY_Qj1O6UBBa9gaq3qfosU0&s=tt8izdlC0lb0YIDeBxoLKz6KFf6pFO7PYqZED3LJLGI&e= https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_archive&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=3JrDLbJKoSWVmzxR9yAqEY_Qj1O6UBBa9gaq3qfosU0&s=YzdZFWtTjhGEow2RCr23bxZPySU7oxypkclzKL3hl5s&e= > > Unsubscribe/Manage: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_mailman_options_triumphs_mmarr-40albiontechnical.com&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=3JrDLbJKoSWVmzxR9yAqEY_Qj1O6UBBa9gaq3qfosU0&s=n13_oCFuCopTUYc-K9K4IEfSbvoh9bLu26krBSX150U&e= > > > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: bill beecher > To: Brian Kemp > Cc: Bob Leaver , triumphs at autox.team.net > Bcc: > Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 21:36:20 -0500 > Subject: Re: [TR] fast idle problem > Save the grief at about the same cost, send off to Joe Curto for new bushes and shafts. You will know it?s right, your TR will thank you. NFI > > > Serenity Now...... > > On May 12, 2020, at 8:32 PM, Brian Kemp wrote: > > ?Bob - You may want to see if you have someplace local that can ream the carbs for you. One of these days I'll be taking mine to a local guy that rebuilds carbs out of his garage. I have the parts from a TRF kit that I ordered before finding out you also needed the reamer. > > Brian > > > On 5/12/2020 2:58 PM, Bob Leaver wrote: > > I have a 1965 Triumph TR4a that I rebuilt the SU carbs and now I can't > > get the idle below about 1500. I've tried all the screws and checked > > all gaskets and nothing. The only possibility I can come up with is > > air getting around the shafts. When rebuilding the cars I didn't > > replace the shafts because I didn't have a reamer. Moss has a reamer > > for $290.00. I looked on line and can't find a less expensive > > replacement. The book states the size of the reamer is 5/16" + > > 0.0105". What kind of measurement is this? Can you use a 5/16" reamer? > > Does anyone have ideas how I can get the idle down? Does anyone know > > of a cheaper reamer to use? Thanks, Bob > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bk13 at earthlink.net > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com > > > > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: bill beecher > To: Brian Kemp > Cc: Bob Leaver , triumphs at autox.team.net > Bcc: > Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 21:36:20 -0500 > Subject: Re: [TR] fast idle problem > Save the grief at about the same cost, send off to Joe Curto for new bushes and shafts. You will know it?s right, your TR will thank you. NFI > > > Serenity Now...... > > On May 12, 2020, at 8:32 PM, Brian Kemp wrote: > > ?Bob - You may want to see if you have someplace local that can ream the carbs for you. One of these days I'll be taking mine to a local guy that rebuilds carbs out of his garage. I have the parts from a TRF kit that I ordered before finding out you also needed the reamer. > > Brian > > > On 5/12/2020 2:58 PM, Bob Leaver wrote: > > I have a 1965 Triumph TR4a that I rebuilt the SU carbs and now I can't > > get the idle below about 1500. I've tried all the screws and checked > > all gaskets and nothing. The only possibility I can come up with is > > air getting around the shafts. When rebuilding the cars I didn't > > replace the shafts because I didn't have a reamer. Moss has a reamer > > for $290.00. I looked on line and can't find a less expensive > > replacement. The book states the size of the reamer is 5/16" + > > 0.0105". What kind of measurement is this? Can you use a 5/16" reamer? > > Does anyone have ideas how I can get the idle down? Does anyone know > > of a cheaper reamer to use? Thanks, Bob > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bk13 at earthlink.net > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com > > > > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: Greg Lemon > To: > Cc: "Triumphs (triumphs at autox.team.net)" > Bcc: > Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 21:44:45 -0500 > Subject: Re: [TR] Ideas, anyone? >> >> Did you do the rocker shaft and rocker arm bushings, have heard if extremely worn it can adversely affect oil pressure--also--easier than a full engine teardown. Also, I know you said in spec, but try a different oil pump? > > > Just some thoughts short of a full teardown--did you or someone plastiguage the bearings before install? > > Greg Lemon > TR250 > > > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: Don Hiscock > To: Jeff Scarbrough > Cc: "Triumphs (triumphs at autox.team.net)" > Bcc: > Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 21:47:30 -0500 > Subject: Re: [TR] Ideas, anyone? > In general, yes the TR3B has the same pressure relief as any TR3A. > > > > On Tuesday, May 12, 2020, Jeff Scarbrough wrote: >> >> Does the TR3B not have an oil pressure relief valve with associated spring? >> >> On Tue, May 12, 2020 at 6:27 PM andrew uprichard wrote: >>> >>> Having (I think) sorted out the problem with the TR4, I took a recently-finished TR3B out for its second inaugural drive. >>> >>> >>> >>> The first inaugural drive went pretty well, but once the engine temp came up, the oil pressure fell like a stone ? and here we are talking around 40psi at 3000rpm and almost nothing at (what was hot) idle. Adjusting the pressure with the screw on the oil filter head did nothing. >>> >>> >>> >>> I checked everything over, even pulled the oil pan and checked all the bearings (one main and 4 rods) ? all perfect. I really didn?t find anything, and the specs on the oil pump looked good, but I ordered a new pump as well as a new spring for the Purolator oil filter head (the valve itself is no longer obtainable). >>> >>> >>> >>> So today when I first took it out, the pressure was almost too high ? around 90 at 3000 rpm. But as soon as the engine warmed up, it again dropped to scary levels. No leaks, no oil in water or vice versa. >>> >>> >>> >>> I am running out of ideas here. Could it be a bad oil filter head? Anything else? >>> >>> >>> >>> Andrew Uprichard >>> >>> Jackson, Michigan >>> >>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fishplate at gmail.com > > > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: Cliff Hansen > To: Michael Marr , Bob Leaver , "Triumphs at autox.team.net" > Cc: > Bcc: > Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 03:54:06 +0000 > Subject: Re: [TR] fast idle problem > > Bob, > > > > Are you sure the linkage is allowing the butterflies to close completely? That was the problem I had when I first put the rebuilt carbs back on my car. > > > > Cliff > > > > > > Sent from Mail for Windows 10 > > > > From: Michael Marr > Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2020 9:03 PM > To: Bob Leaver; Triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] fast idle problem > > > > The Moss reamer cuts a hole that is 10 thousands (nominal) oversize, and requires you to use ten thousandths oversize throttle shafts. The reamer has an extended pilot, so that, even when reaming by hand, the alignment between the holes on each side of the throttle body is maintained. To that extent, it is a special reamer, which accounts for its price. I found other piloted reamers, but they are chucking reamers and the pilot is quite short, so you would have to set the carb body up on a good drill press (or vertical mill, preferably) with the axis of the throttle bushing holes perfectly vertical. The body would have to be clamped to an angle plate in some manner. Such a reamer, of the right size, can be found here... > > https://www.panamericantool.com/high-speed-steel-reamers/high-speed-steel-piloted-chucking-reamers.html > > Part number 99-703 is what you would want. But, unless you've done this kind of set-up before, I wouldn't recommend doing this. I think sending the bodies out to have new oversized shafts fitted might be the most expedient thing. > > Mike > > > Michael J Marr, P.E., CEng. > Albion Technical Services > W5918 Hackbarth Rd > Fort Atkinson, WI 53538 > > Cell: 630-202-0065 > Email: mmarr at albiontechnical.com > > -----Original Message----- > From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Bob Leaver > Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2020 4:58 PM > To: Triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] fast idle problem > > I have a 1965 Triumph TR4a that I rebuilt the SU carbs and now I can't get the idle below about 1500. I've tried all the screws and checked all gaskets and nothing. The only possibility I can come up with is air getting around the shafts. When rebuilding the cars I didn't replace the shafts because I didn't have a reamer. Moss has a reamer for $290.00. I looked on line and can't find a less expensive replacement. The book states the size of the reamer is 5/16" + 0.0105". What kind of measurement is this? Can you use a 5/16" reamer? > Does anyone have ideas how I can get the idle down? Does anyone know of a cheaper reamer to use? Thanks, Bob > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=3JrDLbJKoSWVmzxR9yAqEY_Qj1O6UBBa9gaq3qfosU0&s=fcams_IcyTxT42KTTKzdgPpET42jYRovw8nyOkWYl1I&e= > Archive: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_pipermail_triumphs&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=3JrDLbJKoSWVmzxR9yAqEY_Qj1O6UBBa9gaq3qfosU0&s=tt8izdlC0lb0YIDeBxoLKz6KFf6pFO7PYqZED3LJLGI&e= https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_archive&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=3JrDLbJKoSWVmzxR9yAqEY_Qj1O6UBBa9gaq3qfosU0&s=YzdZFWtTjhGEow2RCr23bxZPySU7oxypkclzKL3hl5s&e= > > Unsubscribe/Manage: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_mailman_options_triumphs_mmarr-40albiontechnical.com&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=3JrDLbJKoSWVmzxR9yAqEY_Qj1O6UBBa9gaq3qfosU0&s=n13_oCFuCopTUYc-K9K4IEfSbvoh9bLu26krBSX150U&e= > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cliff_hansen at outlook.com > > > > > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: "Alex & Janet Thomson" > To: "'andrew uprichard'" , > Cc: > Bcc: > Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 05:57:50 -0400 > Subject: Re: [TR] Ideas, anyone? > > Was the crankshaft cut down by a previous owner for use with undersize bearing shells? I saw this happen in a Nuffield tractor once. Great oil pressure at startup but diminishing quickly as the oil thinned out. > > > > Alex Thomson > > > > From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of andrew uprichard > Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2020 5:54 PM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] Ideas, anyone? > > > > Having (I think) sorted out the problem with the TR4, I took a recently-finished TR3B out for its second inaugural drive. > > > > The first inaugural drive went pretty well, but once the engine temp came up, the oil pressure fell like a stone ? and here we are talking around 40psi at 3000rpm and almost nothing at (what was hot) idle. Adjusting the pressure with the screw on the oil filter head did nothing. > > > > I checked everything over, even pulled the oil pan and checked all the bearings (one main and 4 rods) ? all perfect. I really didn?t find anything, and the specs on the oil pump looked good, but I ordered a new pump as well as a new spring for the Purolator oil filter head (the valve itself is no longer obtainable). > > > > So today when I first took it out, the pressure was almost too high ? around 90 at 3000 rpm. But as soon as the engine warmed up, it again dropped to scary levels. No leaks, no oil in water or vice versa. > > > > I am running out of ideas here. Could it be a bad oil filter head? Anything else? > > > > Andrew Uprichard > > Jackson, Michigan > > > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: andrew uprichard > To: "'Alex & Janet Thomson'" , > Cc: > Bcc: > Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 07:34:33 -0400 > Subject: Re: [TR] Ideas, anyone? > > Thanks for al the suggestions. Gauge is good, have tried a new oil pump. I think the next step is to plastigauge the bearings and check the rocker shaft, as suggested. Then I guess the engine will have to come out. Sigh?.. > > > > From: Alex & Janet Thomson > Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2020 5:58 AM > To: 'andrew uprichard' ; triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: RE: [TR] Ideas, anyone? > > > > Was the crankshaft cut down by a previous owner for use with undersize bearing shells? I saw this happen in a Nuffield tractor once. Great oil pressure at startup but diminishing quickly as the oil thinned out. > > > > Alex Thomson > > > > From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of andrew uprichard > Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2020 5:54 PM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] Ideas, anyone? > > > > Having (I think) sorted out the problem with the TR4, I took a recently-finished TR3B out for its second inaugural drive. > > > > The first inaugural drive went pretty well, but once the engine temp came up, the oil pressure fell like a stone ? and here we are talking around 40psi at 3000rpm and almost nothing at (what was hot) idle. Adjusting the pressure with the screw on the oil filter head did nothing. > > > > I checked everything over, even pulled the oil pan and checked all the bearings (one main and 4 rods) ? all perfect. I really didn?t find anything, and the specs on the oil pump looked good, but I ordered a new pump as well as a new spring for the Purolator oil filter head (the valve itself is no longer obtainable). > > > > So today when I first took it out, the pressure was almost too high ? around 90 at 3000 rpm. But as soon as the engine warmed up, it again dropped to scary levels. No leaks, no oil in water or vice versa. > > > > I am running out of ideas here. Could it be a bad oil filter head? Anything else? > > > > Andrew Uprichard > > Jackson, Michigan > > > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: EDWARD WOODS > To: Bob Leaver , Triumphs at autox.team.net > Cc: > Bcc: > Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 09:41:14 -0400 (EDT) > Subject: Re: [TR] fast idle problem > Bob, > > Check the orientation of the throttle plate tapers as well as their centering. If the idle was adjustable, even roughly, prior to rebuilding, something's occurred during the rebuild to screw it up. Not the throttle shaft fitment. > > TR4A throttle shaft openings are bushed, so they should never have to be oversized. Just replace the bushings and fit standard diameter throttle shafts. If you can't find a local machine shop to do the work, send them to Joe Curto. > > Ed Woods > > > On May 12, 2020 at 5:58 PM Bob Leaver < boleaver at gmail.com> wrote: > > > I have a 1965 Triumph TR4a that I rebuilt the SU carbs and now I can't > get the idle below about 1500. I've tried all the screws and checked > all gaskets and nothing. The only possibility I can come up with is > air getting around the shafts. When rebuilding the cars I didn't > replace the shafts because I didn't have a reamer. Moss has a reamer > for $290.00. I looked on line and can't find a less expensive > replacement. The book states the size of the reamer is 5/16" + > 0.0105". What kind of measurement is this? Can you use a 5/16" reamer? > Does anyone have ideas how I can get the idle down? Does anyone know > of a cheaper reamer to use? Thanks, Bob > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fogbro1 at comcast.net > > > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: TERRY SMITH > To: andrew uprichard , "Alex & Janet Thomson" , triumphs at autox.team.net > Cc: > Bcc: > Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 09:49:59 -0400 (EDT) > Subject: Re: [TR] Ideas, anyone? > I've never heard of such a thing, but could the oil itself be the culprit? Maybe a too thin variety got into a wrong bottle? Or maybe just a bad batch? > > On May 13, 2020 at 7:34 AM andrew uprichard wrote: > > Thanks for al the suggestions. Gauge is good, have tried a new oil pump. I think the next step is to plastigauge the bearings and check the rocker shaft, as suggested. Then I guess the engine will have to come out. Sigh?.. > > > > From: Alex & Janet Thomson > Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2020 5:58 AM > To: 'andrew uprichard' ; triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: RE: [TR] Ideas, anyone? > > > > Was the crankshaft cut down by a previous owner for use with undersize bearing shells? I saw this happen in a Nuffield tractor once. Great oil pressure at startup but diminishing quickly as the oil thinned out. > > > > Alex Thomson > > > > From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of andrew uprichard > Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2020 5:54 PM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] Ideas, anyone? > > > > Having (I think) sorted out the problem with the TR4, I took a recently-finished TR3B out for its second inaugural drive. > > > > The first inaugural drive went pretty well, but once the engine temp came up, the oil pressure fell like a stone ? and here we are talking around 40psi at 3000rpm and almost nothing at (what was hot) idle. Adjusting the pressure with the screw on the oil filter head did nothing. > > > > I checked everything over, even pulled the oil pan and checked all the bearings (one main and 4 rods) ? all perfect. I really didn?t find anything, and the specs on the oil pump looked good, but I ordered a new pump as well as a new spring for the Purolator oil filter head (the valve itself is no longer obtainable). > > > > So today when I first took it out, the pressure was almost too high ? around 90 at 3000 rpm. But as soon as the engine warmed up, it again dropped to scary levels. No leaks, no oil in water or vice versa. > > > > I am running out of ideas here. Could it be a bad oil filter head? Anything else? > > > > Andrew Uprichard > > Jackson, Michigan > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at comcast.net > > > > > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: TERRY SMITH > To: Triumphs at autox.team.net > Cc: > Bcc: > Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 10:33:36 -0400 (EDT) > Subject: Re: [TR] fast idle problem > Would forgetting to hook up the vacuum advance be a possibility? > > On May 13, 2020 at 9:41 AM EDWARD WOODS wrote: > > Bob, > > Check the orientation of the throttle plate tapers as well as their centering. If the idle was adjustable, even roughly, prior to rebuilding, something's occurred during the rebuild to screw it up. Not the throttle shaft fitment. > > TR4A throttle shaft openings are bushed, so they should never have to be oversized. Just replace the bushings and fit standard diameter throttle shafts. If you can't find a local machine shop to do the work, send them to Joe Curto. > > Ed Woods > > > On May 12, 2020 at 5:58 PM Bob Leaver < boleaver at gmail.com> wrote: > > > I have a 1965 Triumph TR4a that I rebuilt the SU carbs and now I can't > get the idle below about 1500. I've tried all the screws and checked > all gaskets and nothing. The only possibility I can come up with is > air getting around the shafts. When rebuilding the cars I didn't > replace the shafts because I didn't have a reamer. Moss has a reamer > for $290.00. I looked on line and can't find a less expensive > replacement. The book states the size of the reamer is 5/16" + > 0.0105". What kind of measurement is this? Can you use a 5/16" reamer? > Does anyone have ideas how I can get the idle down? Does anyone know > of a cheaper reamer to use? Thanks, Bob > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fogbro1 at comcast.net > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at comcast.net > > > > > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: andrew uprichard > To: > Cc: > Bcc: > Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 13:11:42 -0400 > Subject: [TR] Randall Young (TR3 driver) > > I have gone back and forth about posting this, but Randall is a friend of all of us, and I don?t think he would mind me sharing. > > > > Last week I left a couple of vm messages, saying we were worried about him. This morning when I got up, I saw he had called and left a message at 3am EDT. > > > > The message was very garbled and disjointed but he said he was in a hospital and I heard other voices in the background, one of whom was saying ?I?m your nurse, remember?? > > > > It was definitely Randall and I have no reason to believe the call was not genuine. If he is in hospital, I don?t know why (but I can guess). > > > > I did try to call back, but didn?t get through. I left him a message saying I was sorry to hear he was in hospital but that there were a lot of people who would be rooting for him. Please keep him in your thoughts and prayers. > > > > Andrew > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Triumphs mailing list > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs From jpaynepbr at cox.net Fri May 15 16:11:12 2020 From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (jpaynepbr at cox.net) Date: Fri, 15 May 2020 15:11:12 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR2 to TR3 Transition Question Message-ID: <000001d62b05$bfdcd580$3f968080$@cox.net> I looked at a '55 TR3 today with a pretty early commission number, 9046. Interestingly, the car had a TR2 nose and grill. I'm curious as to whether or not it is cobbled together or whether in typical Triumph fashion, they just kept using parts until they ran out and then went with the new stuff. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks, Jonas -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From john at linneyweb.com Fri May 15 16:32:26 2020 From: john at linneyweb.com (John Linney) Date: Fri, 15 May 2020 15:32:26 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR2 to TR3 Transition Question In-Reply-To: <000001d62b05$bfdcd580$3f968080$@cox.net> References: <000001d62b05$bfdcd580$3f968080$@cox.net> Message-ID: This is a great resource. Early TR3s had the ?egg-box? grill small mouth. http://www.nostalgicbritishcars.com/pdf/TR2-4A.pdf > On May 15, 2020, at 3:27 PM, jpaynepbr at cox.net wrote: > > ? > I looked at a ?55 TR3 today with a pretty early commission number, 9046. > > Interestingly, the car had a TR2 nose and grill. > > I?m curious as to whether or not it is cobbled together or whether in typical Triumph fashion, they just kept using parts until they ran out and then went with the new stuff. > > Any input would be appreciated. > > Thanks, > > Jonas > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john at linneyweb.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From agraham at execulink.com Fri May 15 18:17:40 2020 From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham) Date: Fri, 15 May 2020 20:17:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR2 to TR3 Transition Question In-Reply-To: <000001d62b05$bfdcd580$3f968080$@cox.net> References: <000001d62b05$bfdcd580$3f968080$@cox.net> Message-ID: Hello Jonas: I have a supposedly '55 TR2, with comm. no.4928, so would doubt the year for sure. Mine, judging by the comm. nos. was likely built in '54. Looking at the Triumph build data, that serial no is for and early '3, likely built in '56 ?? Sure it wasn't an egg crate TR3 grille? The nose sections for '2 & '3 are identical AFAIK; the grilles & surrounds differ. Should look for other evidence. Disc brakes? Door handles? Rear deck details? Cheers! Angelo Graham Waterloo, ON On 2020-05-15 6:11 p.m., jpaynepbr at cox.net wrote: > > I looked at a ?55 TR3 today with a pretty early commission number, 9046. > > Interestingly, the car had a TR2 nose and grill. > > I?m curious as to whether or not it is cobbled together or whether in > typical Triumph fashion, they just kept using parts until they ran out > and then went with the new stuff. > > Any input would be appreciated. > > Thanks, > > Jonas > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/agraham at execulink.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dlhogye at comcast.net Fri May 15 19:31:23 2020 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (Dave) Date: Fri, 15 May 2020 18:31:23 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR2 to TR3 Transition Question In-Reply-To: <000001d62b05$bfdcd580$3f968080$@cox.net> References: <000001d62b05$bfdcd580$3f968080$@cox.net> Message-ID: The TR3 apron would have extra openings at the top inside of the opening for the grill for extra cooling to the engine compartment, where on the TR2 the opening was completely enclosed all the way to the egg crate grill. TR3s should have holes for the forward mounting grill. I think that some later TR2 aprons may have had trim partly, I think 3/4 surrounding the grill opening. You may find evidence of these trim fitting holes filled. Dave H. Sent from my iPad > On May 15, 2020, at 3:11 PM, wrote: > > I looked at a ?55 TR3 today with a pretty early commission number, 9046. > > Interestingly, the car had a TR2 nose and grill. > > I?m curious as to whether or not it is cobbled together or whether in typical Triumph fashion, they just kept using parts until they ran out and then went with the new stuff. > > Any input would be appreciated. > > Thanks, > > Jonas > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye at comcast.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jpayne at jpaynepbr.onmicrosoft.com Fri May 15 19:50:03 2020 From: jpayne at jpaynepbr.onmicrosoft.com (Jonas Payne) Date: Sat, 16 May 2020 01:50:03 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR2 to TR3 Transition Question In-Reply-To: References: <000001d62b05$bfdcd580$3f968080$@cox.net>, Message-ID: There were scalloped cut outside top tight and left on the apron. Photos and a feel up and around indicate no filler. Typically there is a worm or booger on a filled hole? Rivets on the commission plate didnt look right. Could be a late TR2 with an early TR3 plate? Get Outlook for Android ________________________________ From: Dave Sent: Friday, May 15, 2020 6:31:23 PM To: jpaynepbr at cox.net Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR2 to TR3 Transition Question The TR3 apron would have extra openings at the top inside of the opening for the grill for extra cooling to the engine compartment, where on the TR2 the opening was completely enclosed all the way to the egg crate grill. TR3s should have holes for the forward mounting grill. I think that some later TR2 aprons may have had trim partly, I think 3/4 surrounding the grill opening. You may find evidence of these trim fitting holes filled. Dave H. Sent from my iPad On May 15, 2020, at 3:11 PM, > > wrote: I looked at a ?55 TR3 today with a pretty early commission number, 9046. Interestingly, the car had a TR2 nose and grill. I?m curious as to whether or not it is cobbled together or whether in typical Triumph fashion, they just kept using parts until they ran out and then went with the new stuff. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks, Jonas ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye at comcast.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dlhogye at comcast.net Fri May 15 20:06:02 2020 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (Dave) Date: Fri, 15 May 2020 19:06:02 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR2 to TR3 Transition Question In-Reply-To: References: <000001d62b05$bfdcd580$3f968080$@cox.net> Message-ID: Yes, that's correct. There were two large openings on the top/sides on a TR3 apron. If the filler was applied there could be worms, but that depends. They could be carefully welded up. DH Sent from my iPad > On May 15, 2020, at 6:50 PM, Jonas Payne wrote: > > There were scalloped cut outside top tight and left on the apron. Photos and a feel up and around indicate no filler. Typically there is a worm or booger on a filled hole? Rivets on the commission plate didnt look right. Could be a late TR2 with an early TR3 plate? > > Get Outlook for Android > > From: Dave > Sent: Friday, May 15, 2020 6:31:23 PM > To: jpaynepbr at cox.net > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] TR2 to TR3 Transition Question > > The TR3 apron would have extra openings at the top inside of the opening for the grill for extra cooling to the engine compartment, where on the TR2 the opening was completely enclosed all the way to the egg crate grill. TR3s should have holes for the forward mounting grill. I think that some later TR2 aprons may have had trim partly, I think 3/4 surrounding the grill opening. You may find evidence of these trim fitting holes filled. > Dave H. > > Sent from my iPad > > On May 15, 2020, at 3:11 PM, wrote: > >> I looked at a ?55 TR3 today with a pretty early commission number, 9046. >> >> Interestingly, the car had a TR2 nose and grill. >> >> I?m curious as to whether or not it is cobbled together or whether in typical Triumph fashion, they just kept using parts until they ran out and then went with the new stuff. >> >> Any input would be appreciated. >> >> Thanks, >> >> Jonas >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye at comcast.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From Randall.Reihing at utoledo.edu Fri May 15 20:07:38 2020 From: Randall.Reihing at utoledo.edu (Reihing, Randall S.) Date: Sat, 16 May 2020 02:07:38 +0000 Subject: [TR] [EXTERNAL] Re: Ideas, anyone? In-Reply-To: <00a401d6291a$7a3a2dd0$6eae8970$@uprichard.net> References: <001d01d628a7$ea379910$bea6cb30$@uprichard.net> <003401d6290c$f6e57eb0$e4b07c10$@charter.net>, <00a401d6291a$7a3a2dd0$6eae8970$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: Don't know for sure on TR4's but some engines source their oil pressure from the rear cam bearing, not the oil pump, mains or rod bearings. Where does the TR4 source it's oil pressure? If it comes from the rear cam bearing and if that clearance is excessive it could result in a very low pressure at idle with hot oil. Oil pumps are volumetric flow pumps not necessarily pressure pumps, so you might be fine if the oil pressure gauge senses it's pressure indication from the rear cam bearing. Just a thought. Randall Reihing 1959 TR3A ________________________________ From: Triumphs on behalf of andrew uprichard Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2020 7:34 AM To: 'Alex & Janet Thomson' ; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: [TR] Ideas, anyone? Thanks for al the suggestions. Gauge is good, have tried a new oil pump. I think the next step is to plastigauge the bearings and check the rocker shaft, as suggested. Then I guess the engine will have to come out. Sigh?.. From: Alex & Janet Thomson Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2020 5:58 AM To: 'andrew uprichard' ; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [TR] Ideas, anyone? Was the crankshaft cut down by a previous owner for use with undersize bearing shells? I saw this happen in a Nuffield tractor once. Great oil pressure at startup but diminishing quickly as the oil thinned out. Alex Thomson From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of andrew uprichard Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2020 5:54 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Ideas, anyone? Having (I think) sorted out the problem with the TR4, I took a recently-finished TR3B out for its second inaugural drive. The first inaugural drive went pretty well, but once the engine temp came up, the oil pressure fell like a stone ? and here we are talking around 40psi at 3000rpm and almost nothing at (what was hot) idle. Adjusting the pressure with the screw on the oil filter head did nothing. I checked everything over, even pulled the oil pan and checked all the bearings (one main and 4 rods) ? all perfect. I really didn?t find anything, and the specs on the oil pump looked good, but I ordered a new pump as well as a new spring for the Purolator oil filter head (the valve itself is no longer obtainable). So today when I first took it out, the pressure was almost too high ? around 90 at 3000 rpm. But as soon as the engine warmed up, it again dropped to scary levels. No leaks, no oil in water or vice versa. I am running out of ideas here. Could it be a bad oil filter head? Anything else? Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jpayne at jpaynepbr.onmicrosoft.com Fri May 15 20:33:10 2020 From: jpayne at jpaynepbr.onmicrosoft.com (Jonas Payne) Date: Sat, 16 May 2020 02:33:10 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR2 to TR3 Transition Question In-Reply-To: References: <000001d62b05$bfdcd580$3f968080$@cox.net> , Message-ID: Based on the quality of the remainder of the car I seriously doubt a quality weld up. LOL. To confirm, no scallops on the TR2 inner shroud? Get Outlook for Android ________________________________ From: Dave Sent: Friday, May 15, 2020 7:06:02 PM To: Jonas Payne Cc: jpaynepbr at cox.net ; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR2 to TR3 Transition Question Yes, that's correct. There were two large openings on the top/sides on a TR3 apron. If the filler was applied there could be worms, but that depends. They could be carefully welded up. DH Sent from my iPad On May 15, 2020, at 6:50 PM, Jonas Payne > wrote: There were scalloped cut outside top tight and left on the apron. Photos and a feel up and around indicate no filler. Typically there is a worm or booger on a filled hole? Rivets on the commission plate didnt look right. Could be a late TR2 with an early TR3 plate? Get Outlook for Android ________________________________ From: Dave > Sent: Friday, May 15, 2020 6:31:23 PM To: jpaynepbr at cox.net > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] TR2 to TR3 Transition Question The TR3 apron would have extra openings at the top inside of the opening for the grill for extra cooling to the engine compartment, where on the TR2 the opening was completely enclosed all the way to the egg crate grill. TR3s should have holes for the forward mounting grill. I think that some later TR2 aprons may have had trim partly, I think 3/4 surrounding the grill opening. You may find evidence of these trim fitting holes filled. Dave H. Sent from my iPad On May 15, 2020, at 3:11 PM, > > wrote: I looked at a ?55 TR3 today with a pretty early commission number, 9046. Interestingly, the car had a TR2 nose and grill. I?m curious as to whether or not it is cobbled together or whether in typical Triumph fashion, they just kept using parts until they ran out and then went with the new stuff. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks, Jonas ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye at comcast.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cliff_hansen at outlook.com Fri May 15 20:36:28 2020 From: cliff_hansen at outlook.com (Cliff Hansen) Date: Sat, 16 May 2020 02:36:28 +0000 Subject: [TR] [EXTERNAL] Re: Ideas, anyone? In-Reply-To: References: <001d01d628a7$ea379910$bea6cb30$@uprichard.net> <003401d6290c$f6e57eb0$e4b07c10$@charter.net>, <00a401d6291a$7a3a2dd0$6eae8970$@uprichard.net>, Message-ID: Oil pressure line connects to the filter head. Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ________________________________ From: Triumphs on behalf of Reihing, Randall S. Sent: Friday, May 15, 2020 8:07:38 PM To: andrew uprichard ; 'Alex & Janet Thomson' ; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] [EXTERNAL] Re: Ideas, anyone? Don't know for sure on TR4's but some engines source their oil pressure from the rear cam bearing, not the oil pump, mains or rod bearings. Where does the TR4 source it's oil pressure? If it comes from the rear cam bearing and if that clearance is excessive it could result in a very low pressure at idle with hot oil. Oil pumps are volumetric flow pumps not necessarily pressure pumps, so you might be fine if the oil pressure gauge senses it's pressure indication from the rear cam bearing. Just a thought. Randall Reihing 1959 TR3A ________________________________ From: Triumphs on behalf of andrew uprichard Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2020 7:34 AM To: 'Alex & Janet Thomson' ; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: [TR] Ideas, anyone? Thanks for al the suggestions. Gauge is good, have tried a new oil pump. I think the next step is to plastigauge the bearings and check the rocker shaft, as suggested. Then I guess the engine will have to come out. Sigh?.. From: Alex & Janet Thomson Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2020 5:58 AM To: 'andrew uprichard' ; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [TR] Ideas, anyone? Was the crankshaft cut down by a previous owner for use with undersize bearing shells? I saw this happen in a Nuffield tractor once. Great oil pressure at startup but diminishing quickly as the oil thinned out. Alex Thomson From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of andrew uprichard Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2020 5:54 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Ideas, anyone? Having (I think) sorted out the problem with the TR4, I took a recently-finished TR3B out for its second inaugural drive. The first inaugural drive went pretty well, but once the engine temp came up, the oil pressure fell like a stone ? and here we are talking around 40psi at 3000rpm and almost nothing at (what was hot) idle. Adjusting the pressure with the screw on the oil filter head did nothing. I checked everything over, even pulled the oil pan and checked all the bearings (one main and 4 rods) ? all perfect. I really didn?t find anything, and the specs on the oil pump looked good, but I ordered a new pump as well as a new spring for the Purolator oil filter head (the valve itself is no longer obtainable). So today when I first took it out, the pressure was almost too high ? around 90 at 3000 rpm. But as soon as the engine warmed up, it again dropped to scary levels. No leaks, no oil in water or vice versa. I am running out of ideas here. Could it be a bad oil filter head? Anything else? Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dlhogye at comcast.net Fri May 15 22:16:13 2020 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE) Date: Fri, 15 May 2020 21:16:13 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR2 to TR3 Transition Question In-Reply-To: References: <000001d62b05$bfdcd580$3f968080$@cox.net> , Message-ID: <1703768002.277370.1589602573954@connect.xfinity.com> Well, as far as I know there were no scallops on the TR2 aprons. I have a long door TR2 that has the original apron and I have seen one other like this on a TR2. All of the TR3 aprons that I have seen had the scallops and holes for the grill and or the forward trim surround. I have seen a TR2 for sale that the seller said had all TR2 sheet metal, but the apron had the scallops as well as worms hanging on the back side of the apron where there was quite obviously a TR3 grill and trim fitting holes. In this case, it was absolutely a TR3 apron fitted to a TR2 long door. However, was there a sharing of panels between model production overlap? I could not say for sure...I just know it's true. The forward grill of the TR3 makes sense to have the scallops behind the grill. TR2s deep set egg crate grill would not provide the necessary protection of objects entering the engine compartment, like perhaps a sparrow, through the open scallops. I have a couple beat up old TR3 aprons and they all have the same scallops and holes. No worms though, but that sparrow would have certainly been drawn to them. DH > On May 15, 2020 at 7:33 PM Jonas Payne wrote: > > Based on the quality of the remainder of the car I seriously d oubt a quality weld up. LOL. To confirm, no scallops on the TR2 inner shroud? > > Get Outlook for Android https://aka.ms/ghei36 > > > --------------------------------------------- > From: Dave > Sent: Friday, May 15, 2020 7:06:02 PM > To: Jonas Payne > Cc: jpaynepbr at cox.net ; triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] TR2 to TR3 Transition Question > > Yes, that's correct. There were two large openings on the top/sides on a TR3 apron. If the filler was applied there could be worms, but that depends. They could be carefully welded up. > DH > > Sent from my iPad > > On May 15, 2020, at 6:50 PM, Jonas Payne < jpayne at jpaynepbr.onmicrosoft.com mailto:jpayne at jpaynepbr.onmicrosoft.com > wrote: > > > > > There were scalloped cut outside top tight and left on the apron. Photos and a feel up and around indicate no filler. Typically there is a worm or booger on a filled hole? Rivets on the commission plate didnt look right. Could be a late TR2 with an early TR3 plate? > > > > Get Outlook for Android https://aka.ms/ghei36 > > > > > > --------------------------------------------- > > From: Dave > > Sent: Friday, May 15, 2020 6:31:23 PM > > To: jpaynepbr at cox.net mailto:jpaynepbr at cox.net > > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net > > Subject: Re: [TR] TR2 to TR3 Transition Question > > > > The TR3 apron would have extra openings at the top inside of the opening for the grill for extra cooling to the engine compartment, where on the TR2 the opening was completely enclosed all the way to the egg crate grill. TR3s should have holes for the forward mounting grill. I think that some later TR2 aprons may have had trim partly, I think 3/4 surrounding the grill opening. You may find evidence of these trim fitting holes filled. > > Dave H. > > > > Sent from my iPad > > > > On May 15, 2020, at 3:11 PM, < jpaynepbr at cox.net mailto:jpaynepbr at cox.net > < jpaynepbr at cox.net mailto:jpaynepbr at cox.net > wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > I looked at a ?55 TR3 today with a pretty early commission number, 9046. > > > > > > > > > > > > Interestingly, the car had a TR2 nose and grill. > > > > > > > > > > > > I?m curious as to whether or not it is cobbled together or whether in typical Triumph fashion, they just kept using parts until they ran out and then went with the new stuff. > > > > > > > > > > > > Any input would be appreciated. > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > > > > > > > > > Jonas > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye at comcast.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye at comcast.net > > > > > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From auprichard at uprichard.net Sat May 16 05:38:15 2020 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (andrew uprichard) Date: Sat, 16 May 2020 07:38:15 -0400 Subject: [TR] [EXTERNAL] Re: Ideas, anyone? In-Reply-To: References: <001d01d628a7$ea379910$bea6cb30$@uprichard.net> <003401d6290c$f6e57eb0$e4b07c10$@charter.net>, <00a401d6291a$7a3a2dd0$6eae8970$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <00d501d62b76$7da6d870$78f48950$@uprichard.net> If you spin an oil pump with a long screwdriver bit on a drill, you will get oil pressure, but no feed to the head, which makes me think the rear cam bearing is just responsible for the latter. But I could be wrong. Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan From: Reihing, Randall S. Sent: Friday, May 15, 2020 10:08 PM To: andrew uprichard ; 'Alex & Janet Thomson' ; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: [TR] Ideas, anyone? Don't know for sure on TR4's but some engines source their oil pressure from the rear cam bearing, not the oil pump, mains or rod bearings. Where does the TR4 source it's oil pressure? If it comes from the rear cam bearing and if that clearance is excessive it could result in a very low pressure at idle with hot oil. Oil pumps are volumetric flow pumps not necessarily pressure pumps, so you might be fine if the oil pressure gauge senses it's pressure indication from the rear cam bearing. Just a thought. Randall Reihing 1959 TR3A _____ From: Triumphs > on behalf of andrew uprichard > Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2020 7:34 AM To: 'Alex & Janet Thomson' >; triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: [TR] Ideas, anyone? Thanks for al the suggestions. Gauge is good, have tried a new oil pump. I think the next step is to plastigauge the bearings and check the rocker shaft, as suggested. Then I guess the engine will have to come out. Sigh... From: Alex & Janet Thomson > Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2020 5:58 AM To: 'andrew uprichard' >; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [TR] Ideas, anyone? Was the crankshaft cut down by a previous owner for use with undersize bearing shells? I saw this happen in a Nuffield tractor once. Great oil pressure at startup but diminishing quickly as the oil thinned out. Alex Thomson From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of andrew uprichard Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2020 5:54 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Ideas, anyone? Having (I think) sorted out the problem with the TR4, I took a recently-finished TR3B out for its second inaugural drive. The first inaugural drive went pretty well, but once the engine temp came up, the oil pressure fell like a stone - and here we are talking around 40psi at 3000rpm and almost nothing at (what was hot) idle. Adjusting the pressure with the screw on the oil filter head did nothing. I checked everything over, even pulled the oil pan and checked all the bearings (one main and 4 rods) - all perfect. I really didn't find anything, and the specs on the oil pump looked good, but I ordered a new pump as well as a new spring for the Purolator oil filter head (the valve itself is no longer obtainable). So today when I first took it out, the pressure was almost too high - around 90 at 3000 rpm. But as soon as the engine warmed up, it again dropped to scary levels. No leaks, no oil in water or vice versa. I am running out of ideas here. Could it be a bad oil filter head? Anything else? Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From stan at redtr6.com Sat May 16 06:10:53 2020 From: stan at redtr6.com (Stan Foster) Date: Sat, 16 May 2020 12:10:53 +0000 Subject: [TR] [EXTERNAL] Re: Ideas, anyone? In-Reply-To: <00d501d62b76$7da6d870$78f48950$@uprichard.net> References: <001d01d628a7$ea379910$bea6cb30$@uprichard.net> <003401d6290c$f6e57eb0$e4b07c10$@charter.net>, <00a401d6291a$7a3a2dd0$6eae8970$@uprichard.net> <00d501d62b76$7da6d870$78f48950$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: That is absolutely true for the TR2-TR6 at least. There are flats in the rear cam bearing that provide the pumping action. If you install cam bearings in a TR6 you have to be sure to align the hole in the bearing with the oil feed hole to the head otherwise the rocker gear will have no oil feed. If you run the oil pump with a drill you will observe no oil getting to the head but that is not a cause for concern. Stan From: Triumphs On Behalf Of andrew uprichard Sent: Saturday, May 16, 2020 7:38 AM To: 'Reihing, Randall S.' ; 'Alex & Janet Thomson' ; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] [EXTERNAL] Re: Ideas, anyone? If you spin an oil pump with a long screwdriver bit on a drill, you will get oil pressure, but no feed to the head, which makes me think the rear cam bearing is just responsible for the latter. But I could be wrong. Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan From: Reihing, Randall S. > Sent: Friday, May 15, 2020 10:08 PM To: andrew uprichard >; 'Alex & Janet Thomson' >; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: [TR] Ideas, anyone? Don't know for sure on TR4's but some engines source their oil pressure from the rear cam bearing, not the oil pump, mains or rod bearings. Where does the TR4 source it's oil pressure? If it comes from the rear cam bearing and if that clearance is excessive it could result in a very low pressure at idle with hot oil. Oil pumps are volumetric flow pumps not necessarily pressure pumps, so you might be fine if the oil pressure gauge senses it's pressure indication from the rear cam bearing. Just a thought. Randall Reihing 1959 TR3A ________________________________ From: Triumphs > on behalf of andrew uprichard > Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2020 7:34 AM To: 'Alex & Janet Thomson' >; triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: [TR] Ideas, anyone? Thanks for al the suggestions. Gauge is good, have tried a new oil pump. I think the next step is to plastigauge the bearings and check the rocker shaft, as suggested. Then I guess the engine will have to come out. Sigh..... From: Alex & Janet Thomson > Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2020 5:58 AM To: 'andrew uprichard' >; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [TR] Ideas, anyone? Was the crankshaft cut down by a previous owner for use with undersize bearing shells? I saw this happen in a Nuffield tractor once. Great oil pressure at startup but diminishing quickly as the oil thinned out. Alex Thomson From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of andrew uprichard Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2020 5:54 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Ideas, anyone? Having (I think) sorted out the problem with the TR4, I took a recently-finished TR3B out for its second inaugural drive. The first inaugural drive went pretty well, but once the engine temp came up, the oil pressure fell like a stone - and here we are talking around 40psi at 3000rpm and almost nothing at (what was hot) idle. Adjusting the pressure with the screw on the oil filter head did nothing. I checked everything over, even pulled the oil pan and checked all the bearings (one main and 4 rods) - all perfect. I really didn't find anything, and the specs on the oil pump looked good, but I ordered a new pump as well as a new spring for the Purolator oil filter head (the valve itself is no longer obtainable). So today when I first took it out, the pressure was almost too high - around 90 at 3000 rpm. But as soon as the engine warmed up, it again dropped to scary levels. No leaks, no oil in water or vice versa. I am running out of ideas here. Could it be a bad oil filter head? Anything else? Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From auprichard at uprichard.net Sat May 16 13:43:52 2020 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (andrew uprichard) Date: Sat, 16 May 2020 15:43:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] Update on low oil pressure situation Message-ID: <006101d62bba$54f28660$fed79320$@uprichard.net> Story: freshly rebuilt engine on a newly-restored TR3B. Great pressure at start up but once the engine warmed, it fell like a stone. Tried a new oil pump, replaced the oil filter head - still no luck. So I finally found the problem. When I plastigaged the rod bearings today I realized they were wrong. The crank is obviously not the standard crank I thought. However the mix-up occurred (probably too many cranks being handled at the same time) it was clearly my fault for not plexigaging the bearings before putting them on. I thought I had, but we'll have to put it down to a senior moment. Thank you all for your suggestions! Andrew -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dconnitt at fuse.net Sat May 16 13:57:15 2020 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Sat, 16 May 2020 15:57:15 -0400 Subject: [TR] Update on low oil pressure situation In-Reply-To: <006101d62bba$54f28660$fed79320$@uprichard.net> References: <006101d62bba$54f28660$fed79320$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <5A4289D2-62F6-4BCC-BAD2-3609C46F35BE@fuse.net> At least you found the problem! Dave Connitt Sent from my iPhone > On May 16, 2020, at 3:46 PM, andrew uprichard wrote: > > ? > Story: freshly rebuilt engine on a newly-restored TR3B. Great pressure at start up but once the engine warmed, it fell like a stone. Tried a new oil pump, replaced the oil filter head ? still no luck. > > So I finally found the problem. When I plastigaged the rod bearings today I realized they were wrong. The crank is obviously not the standard crank I thought. However the mix-up occurred (probably too many cranks being handled at the same time) it was clearly my fault for not plexigaging the bearings before putting them on. I thought I had, but we?ll have to put it down to a senior moment. > > Thank you all for your suggestions! > > Andrew > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dconnitt at fuse.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Sat May 16 16:10:43 2020 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Sat, 16 May 2020 22:10:43 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Update on low oil pressure situation In-Reply-To: <006101d62bba$54f28660$fed79320$@uprichard.net> References: <006101d62bba$54f28660$fed79320$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <1928836466.179902.1589667043786@mail.yahoo.com> An easy fix.? Well, compared to pulling the engine.? Onward and upward. Dave -----Original Message----- From: andrew uprichard To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, May 16, 2020 2:43 pm Subject: [TR] Update on low oil pressure situation Story:? freshly rebuilt engine on a newly-restored TR3B.? Great pressure at start up but once the engine warmed, it fell like a stone.? Tried a new oil pump, replaced the oil filter head ? still no luck. ?So I finally found the problem.? When I plastigaged the rod bearings today I realized they were wrong.? The crank is obviously not the standard crank I thought.? However the mix-up occurred (probably too many cranks being handled at the same time) it was clearly my fault for not plexigaging the bearings before putting them on.? I thought I had, but we?ll have to put it down to a senior moment. ?Thank you all for your suggestions! Andrew** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrochlin at comcast.net Sun May 17 05:27:52 2020 From: rrochlin at comcast.net (Robert Rochlin) Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 07:27:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] Master Cylinder Rebuild Message-ID: I hope everyone is hanging in there and doing well in this time of quarantine. It down?t look like here in Massachusetts the stay at home order will be completely lifted for several of more weeks, but some business slowly are beginning to be be allowed to reopen. I?ve had a checkered history with master cylinders. In the past I?ve sent m/c off to be rebuilt by reputable rebuilders only to have them catastrophically fail soon after reinstallation. I?m figuring that I can improve on that record. When I went to the Buckeye Triumph site to review the rebuild process the article recommended red grease. I don?t have any, but I do have Volvo silicone breaks grease. In the absence of red brake grease can I just apply brake fluid as lubricant to do the rebuild or should i bite the bullet and get the red brake grease. About the only red grease I could fine was on Amazon and it was pretty pricey, $16.00 plus $8.00 shipping. Any advice would be appreciated. Best, Bob ?72 TR6 From rrochlin at comcast.net Sun May 17 07:44:02 2020 From: rrochlin at comcast.net (Robert Rochlin) Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 09:44:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Master Cylinder Rebuild In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3C253303-61DC-455B-B37B-2EA032DD788C@comcast.net> Hi Richard, I sent my m/c off to a reputable (I thought ) rebuilder for a complete rebuild and installed it back installed it in the TR6. As I recall it worked fine for a short time and then on day I was puling out of the garage and the brakes totally failed. The TR6 rolled int my P/U truck dented the door, and pushed in the front o the Tr6 hood. A very expensive afternoon. I sent the m/c back to the rebuilder as I had time to kill while the body shop fixed the TR6. They rebuilt the m/c again gratis and I reinstalled it. After about 8 months the m/c started to fail again, but slowly? I replaced it with a new Girling and it has gone several seasons working fine but now I?m getting the slow sinking pedal. Before replacing it again I am going to replace the seals myself. Although I?ve had good luck with several rebuilt components including starters, carburetors, shocks, and distributers, I?ll never send a master cylinder to a rebuilder again. Best, Bob > On May 17, 2020, at 8:58 AM, Richard Lindsay wrote: > > Hello Bob, et al., > > Glad you're well. Here is south Texas we too are relaxing the stay-at-home order and the older people (like me) are beginning to venture out, if still maintaining safe separation. The 'younglings' seem to think an All Clear has been sounded and they're back face to face. I wish them luck. > > I have had two, fresh from the box, M/Cs fail then a third, working fine. I don't wish to directly name and disparage the vendor since they are always quite willing to make things right, but their name does grow on the 'north side of the tree'. The question I ponder and why I am writing is to ask is: How did your M/Cs fail? > In one of my unit's failures, fresh from the box, the front brake circuit worked fine (that's the one closer to the booster) but the rear brake circuit would flow no fluid. The second unit would flow no fluid through either circuit! The third M/C worked perfectly and still works great today! > > Did I get two poorly or incorrectly rebuilt cylinders? Someone in China just make mistakes? Did I do something wrong? Thus I ask: How did your M/C "fail catastrophically?" > > -rick > > On Sun, May 17, 2020, 6:38 AM Robert Rochlin via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net > wrote: > I hope everyone is hanging in there and doing well in this time of quarantine. It down?t look like here in Massachusetts the stay at home order will be completely lifted for several of more weeks, but some business slowly are beginning to be be allowed to reopen. > I?ve had a checkered history with master cylinders. In the past I?ve sent m/c off to be rebuilt by reputable rebuilders only to have them catastrophically fail soon after reinstallation. I?m figuring that I can improve on that record. When I went to the Buckeye Triumph site to review the rebuild process the article recommended red grease. I don?t have any, but I do have Volvo silicone breaks grease. In the absence of red brake grease can I just apply brake fluid as lubricant to do the rebuild or should i bite the bullet and get the red brake grease. About the only red grease I could fine was on Amazon and it was pretty pricey, $16.00 plus $8.00 shipping. > Any advice would be appreciated. > Best, > Bob > ?72 TR6 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/richardolindsay at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From notakitcar at yahoo.com Sun May 17 08:13:54 2020 From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher) Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 09:13:54 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Master Cylinder Rebuild In-Reply-To: <3C253303-61DC-455B-B37B-2EA032DD788C@comcast.net> References: <3C253303-61DC-455B-B37B-2EA032DD788C@comcast.net> Message-ID: <2C4BB845-775C-401D-9FDB-AD453EEC1572@yahoo.com> Have rebuilt many M/C, TR and others, always just use brake fluid as lubricant and bench bleed before installation. Bill B TS30800L Serenity Now...... On May 17, 2020, at 8:56 AM, Robert Rochlin wrote: ?Hi Richard, I sent my m/c off to a reputable (I thought ) rebuilder for a complete rebuild and installed it back installed it in the TR6. As I recall it worked fine for a short time and then on day I was puling out of the garage and the brakes totally failed. The TR6 rolled int my P/U truck dented the door, and pushed in the front o the Tr6 hood. A very expensive afternoon. I sent the m/c back to the rebuilder as I had time to kill while the body shop fixed the TR6. They rebuilt the m/c again gratis and I reinstalled it. After about 8 months the m/c started to fail again, but slowly? I replaced it with a new Girling and it has gone several seasons working fine but now I?m getting the slow sinking pedal. Before replacing it again I am going to replace the seals myself. Although I?ve had good luck with several rebuilt components including starters, carburetors, shocks, and distributers, I?ll never send a master cylinder to a rebuilder again. Best, Bob > On May 17, 2020, at 8:58 AM, Richard Lindsay wrote: > > Hello Bob, et al., > > Glad you're well. Here is south Texas we too are relaxing the stay-at-home order and the older people (like me) are beginning to venture out, if still maintaining safe separation. The 'younglings' seem to think an All Clear has been sounded and they're back face to face. I wish them luck. > > I have had two, fresh from the box, M/Cs fail then a third, working fine. I don't wish to directly name and disparage the vendor since they are always quite willing to make things right, but their name does grow on the 'north side of the tree'. The question I ponder and why I am writing is to ask is: How did your M/Cs fail? > In one of my unit's failures, fresh from the box, the front brake circuit worked fine (that's the one closer to the booster) but the rear brake circuit would flow no fluid. The second unit would flow no fluid through either circuit! The third M/C worked perfectly and still works great today! > > Did I get two poorly or incorrectly rebuilt cylinders? Someone in China just make mistakes? Did I do something wrong? Thus I ask: How did your M/C "fail catastrophically?" > > -rick > > On Sun, May 17, 2020, 6:38 AM Robert Rochlin via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: >> I hope everyone is hanging in there and doing well in this time of quarantine. It down?t look like here in Massachusetts the stay at home order will be completely lifted for several of more weeks, but some business slowly are beginning to be be allowed to reopen. >> I?ve had a checkered history with master cylinders. In the past I?ve sent m/c off to be rebuilt by reputable rebuilders only to have them catastrophically fail soon after reinstallation. I?m figuring that I can improve on that record. When I went to the Buckeye Triumph site to review the rebuild process the article recommended red grease. I don?t have any, but I do have Volvo silicone breaks grease. In the absence of red brake grease can I just apply brake fluid as lubricant to do the rebuild or should i bite the bullet and get the red brake grease. About the only red grease I could fine was on Amazon and it was pretty pricey, $16.00 plus $8.00 shipping. >> Any advice would be appreciated. >> Best, >> Bob >> ?72 TR6 >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> 6pack at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/richardolindsay at gmail.com >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From notakitcar at yahoo.com Sun May 17 08:13:54 2020 From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher) Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 09:13:54 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Master Cylinder Rebuild In-Reply-To: <3C253303-61DC-455B-B37B-2EA032DD788C@comcast.net> References: <3C253303-61DC-455B-B37B-2EA032DD788C@comcast.net> Message-ID: <2C4BB845-775C-401D-9FDB-AD453EEC1572@yahoo.com> Have rebuilt many M/C, TR and others, always just use brake fluid as lubricant and bench bleed before installation. Bill B TS30800L Serenity Now...... On May 17, 2020, at 8:56 AM, Robert Rochlin wrote: ?Hi Richard, I sent my m/c off to a reputable (I thought ) rebuilder for a complete rebuild and installed it back installed it in the TR6. As I recall it worked fine for a short time and then on day I was puling out of the garage and the brakes totally failed. The TR6 rolled int my P/U truck dented the door, and pushed in the front o the Tr6 hood. A very expensive afternoon. I sent the m/c back to the rebuilder as I had time to kill while the body shop fixed the TR6. They rebuilt the m/c again gratis and I reinstalled it. After about 8 months the m/c started to fail again, but slowly? I replaced it with a new Girling and it has gone several seasons working fine but now I?m getting the slow sinking pedal. Before replacing it again I am going to replace the seals myself. Although I?ve had good luck with several rebuilt components including starters, carburetors, shocks, and distributers, I?ll never send a master cylinder to a rebuilder again. Best, Bob > On May 17, 2020, at 8:58 AM, Richard Lindsay wrote: > > Hello Bob, et al., > > Glad you're well. Here is south Texas we too are relaxing the stay-at-home order and the older people (like me) are beginning to venture out, if still maintaining safe separation. The 'younglings' seem to think an All Clear has been sounded and they're back face to face. I wish them luck. > > I have had two, fresh from the box, M/Cs fail then a third, working fine. I don't wish to directly name and disparage the vendor since they are always quite willing to make things right, but their name does grow on the 'north side of the tree'. The question I ponder and why I am writing is to ask is: How did your M/Cs fail? > In one of my unit's failures, fresh from the box, the front brake circuit worked fine (that's the one closer to the booster) but the rear brake circuit would flow no fluid. The second unit would flow no fluid through either circuit! The third M/C worked perfectly and still works great today! > > Did I get two poorly or incorrectly rebuilt cylinders? Someone in China just make mistakes? Did I do something wrong? Thus I ask: How did your M/C "fail catastrophically?" > > -rick > > On Sun, May 17, 2020, 6:38 AM Robert Rochlin via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: >> I hope everyone is hanging in there and doing well in this time of quarantine. It down?t look like here in Massachusetts the stay at home order will be completely lifted for several of more weeks, but some business slowly are beginning to be be allowed to reopen. >> I?ve had a checkered history with master cylinders. In the past I?ve sent m/c off to be rebuilt by reputable rebuilders only to have them catastrophically fail soon after reinstallation. I?m figuring that I can improve on that record. When I went to the Buckeye Triumph site to review the rebuild process the article recommended red grease. I don?t have any, but I do have Volvo silicone breaks grease. In the absence of red brake grease can I just apply brake fluid as lubricant to do the rebuild or should i bite the bullet and get the red brake grease. About the only red grease I could fine was on Amazon and it was pretty pricey, $16.00 plus $8.00 shipping. >> Any advice would be appreciated. >> Best, >> Bob >> ?72 TR6 >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> 6pack at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/richardolindsay at gmail.com >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sun May 17 08:36:44 2020 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 10:36:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Master Cylinder Rebuild In-Reply-To: <3C253303-61DC-455B-B37B-2EA032DD788C@comcast.net> References: <3C253303-61DC-455B-B37B-2EA032DD788C@comcast.net> Message-ID: <94b79432-3ef7-7de2-12e1-154057a4db78@adelphia.net> Hello, Not sure what the problems are here. I rebuilt the MC on my 72 6 and I am in my 12th season. Now I did use the dot 5 synthetic fluid from TRF. The MC on my 58 3 had the seals replaced about 10 years ago and not a problem since. Same with the 63 4. Rebuild MC and clutch MC and used the same dot 5 from TRF. No problems for over 15 seasons. Before I rebuilt the 3 MC, I did notice it weeping a bit. I have never had a total failure in over 50 years of Triumph ownership. I know this is of little help to understand the failures but I did want to let you know what you are experiencing is very unusual in my opinion. Bob On 5/17/20 9:44 AM, Robert Rochlin wrote: > Hi Richard, > I sent my m/c off to a reputable (I thought ) rebuilder for a complete > rebuild and installed it back installed it in the TR6. ?As I recall it > worked fine for a short time and then on day I was puling out of the > garage and the brakes totally failed. ?The TR6 rolled int my P/U truck > dented the door, and pushed in the front o the Tr6 hood. A very > expensive afternoon. I sent the m/c back to the rebuilder as I had > time to kill while the body shop fixed the TR6. ?They rebuilt the m/c > again gratis and I reinstalled it. ?After about 8 months the m/c > started to fail again, but slowly? I replaced it with a new Girling > and it has gone several seasons working fine but now I?m getting the > slow sinking pedal. Before replacing it again I am going to replace > the seals myself. > ??Although I?ve had good luck with several rebuilt components > including starters, carburetors, shocks, and distributers, ?I?ll never > send a master cylinder to a rebuilder again. > Best, > Bob > >> On May 17, 2020, at 8:58 AM, Richard Lindsay >> > wrote: >> >> Hello Bob, /et al./, >> >> ? ?Glad you're well. Here is south Texas we too are relaxing the >> stay-at-home order and the older people (like me) are beginning to >> venture out, if still maintaining safe separation. The 'younglings' >> seem to think an /All Clear/ has been sounded and they're back face >> to face. I wish them luck. >> >> ? ?I have had two, fresh from the box,? M/Cs fail then a third, >> working fine. I don't wish to directly name and disparage the vendor >> since they are always quite willing to make things right, but their >> name does grow on the 'north side of the tree'. The question I ponder >> and why I am writing is to ask is: How did your M/Cs fail? >> ? ?In one of my unit's failures, fresh from the box, the front brake >> circuit worked fine (that's the one closer to the booster) but the >> rear brake circuit would flow no fluid. The second unit would flow no >> fluid through either circuit! The third M/C worked perfectly and >> still works great today! >> >> ? ?Did I get two poorly or incorrectly rebuilt cylinders? Someone in >> China just make mistakes? Did I do something wrong? Thus I ask: How >> did your M/C "fail catastrophically?" >> >> -rick >> >> On Sun, May 17, 2020, 6:38 AM Robert Rochlin via 6pack >> <6pack at autox.team.net > wrote: >> >> I hope everyone is hanging in there and doing well in this time >> of quarantine.? It down?t look like here in Massachusetts the >> stay at home order will be? completely lifted for several of more >> weeks, but some business slowly are beginning to be be allowed to >> reopen. >> ? ? ? ? I?ve had a checkered history with master cylinders. In >> the past I?ve sent m/c off to be rebuilt by reputable rebuilders >> only to have them catastrophically fail soon after >> reinstallation. I?m figuring that I can improve on that record. >> When I went to the Buckeye Triumph site to review the rebuild >> process the article recommended red grease.? I don?t have any, >> but I do have Volvo silicone breaks grease.? In the absence of >> red brake grease can I just apply brake fluid as lubricant to do >> the rebuild or should i bite the bullet and get the red brake >> grease.? About the only red grease I could fine was on Amazon and >> it was pretty pricey, $16.00 plus $8.00 shipping. >> ? ? ? ? Any advice would be appreciated. >> ? ? ? ? Best, >> ? ? ? ? Bob >> ? ? ? ? ?72 TR6 >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation? $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> 6pack at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/richardolindsay at gmail.com >> > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr at adelphia.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From terryrs at comcast.net Sun May 17 08:39:58 2020 From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH) Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 10:39:58 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Float Bowl Insulators Message-ID: <1930781387.284293.1589726398273@connect.xfinity.com> Hello everyone. I seem to remember seeing little bag type insulators that cover SU float bowls. Don't see them at Moss or TRF, though. Anybody have a bead on where to find them???? Thanks, Terry Smith, '59 TR3A TS 58667 New Hampshire -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From daveg at online.no Sun May 17 09:04:56 2020 From: daveg at online.no (David Griffiths) Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 17:04:56 +0200 Subject: [TR] Fwd: Float Bowl Insulators References: <1930781387.284293.1589726398273@connect.xfinity.com> Message-ID: > Begin forwarded message: > > From: TERRY SMITH > Subject: [TR] Float Bowl Insulators > Date: 17 May 2020 at 16:39:58 GMT+2 > To: triumphs > Reply-To: TERRY SMITH > > Hello everyone. I seem to remember seeing little bag type insulators that cover SU float bowls. Don't see them at Moss or TRF, though. Anybody have a bead on where to find them???? > > Thanks, > Terry Smith, '59 TR3A TS 58667 > New Hampshire Carb socks? Perhaps you are thinking of these? https://su-rebuilders.com/products/su-flaot-bowl-heat-insulation-sock All the best, Dave -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dlhogye at comcast.net Sun May 17 10:39:22 2020 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE) Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 09:39:22 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] [6pack] Master Cylinder Rebuild In-Reply-To: <3C253303-61DC-455B-B37B-2EA032DD788C@comcast.net> References: <3C253303-61DC-455B-B37B-2EA032DD788C@comcast.net> Message-ID: <1042483499.289465.1589733562892@connect.xfinity.com> If a new master cylinder is available, why bother with trying to rebuild an old one? I know that a rebuild kit is just a few dollars, but sending it off to have it rebuilt adds a lot to the cost. I have never rebuilt a master that was available new. Time is money and bent panels and paint repair are too, beside being dangerous. I learned very early in my mechanic learning to renew the brake fluid at least on an annual basis. This saves components from failure and adds long life to them. Wilwood and others make excellent replacement masters for the TR3 and they are at the most $80 new. At this cost, it does not make sense to rebuild one. I understand the TR6 has a different style master and may be more costly. Good luck for good brakes. Dave H. > On May 17, 2020 at 6:44 AM Robert Rochlin wrote: > > Hi Richard, > I sent my m/c off to a reputable (I thought ) rebuilder for a complete rebuild and installed it back installed it in the TR6. As I recall it worked fine for a short time and then on day I was puling out of the garage and the brakes totally failed. The TR6 rolled int my P/U truck dented the door, and pushed in the front o the Tr6 hood. A very expensive afternoon. I sent the m/c back to the rebuilder as I had time to kill while the body shop fixed the TR6. They rebuilt the m/c again gratis and I reinstalled it. After about 8 months the m/c started to fail again, but slowly? I replaced it with a new Girling and it has gone several seasons working fine but now I?m getting the slow sinking pedal. Before replacing it again I am going to replace the seals myself. > Although I?ve had good luck with several rebuilt components including starters, carburetors, shocks, and distributers, I?ll never send a master cylinder to a rebuilder again. > Best, > Bob > > > > > On May 17, 2020, at 8:58 AM, Richard Lindsay < richardolindsay at gmail.com mailto:richardolindsay at gmail.com > wrote: > > > > Hello Bob, et al., > > > > Glad you're well. Here is south Texas we too are relaxing the stay-at-home order and the older people (like me) are beginning to venture out, if still maintaining safe separation. The 'younglings' seem to think an All Clear has been sounded and they're back face to face. I wish them luck. > > > > I have had two, fresh from the box, M/Cs fail then a third, working fine. I don't wish to directly name and disparage the vendor since they are always quite willing to make things right, but their name does grow on the 'north side of the tree'. The question I ponder and why I am writing is to ask is: How did your M/Cs fail? > > In one of my unit's failures, fresh from the box, the front brake circuit worked fine (that's the one closer to the booster) but the rear brake circuit would flow no fluid. The second unit would flow no fluid through either circuit! The third M/C worked perfectly and still works great today! > > > > Did I get two poorly or incorrectly rebuilt cylinders? Someone in China just make mistakes? Did I do something wrong? Thus I ask: How did your M/C "fail catastrophically?" > > > > -rick > > > > On Sun, May 17, 2020, 6:38 AM Robert Rochlin via 6pack < 6pack at autox.team.net mailto:6pack at autox.team.net > wrote: > > > > > > > I hope everyone is hanging in there and doing well in this time of quarantine. It down?t look like here in Massachusetts the stay at home order will be completely lifted for several of more weeks, but some business slowly are beginning to be be allowed to reopen. > > > I?ve had a checkered history with master cylinders. In the past I?ve sent m/c off to be rebuilt by reputable rebuilders only to have them catastrophically fail soon after reinstallation. I?m figuring that I can improve on that record. When I went to the Buckeye Triumph site to review the rebuild process the article recommended red grease. I don?t have any, but I do have Volvo silicone breaks grease. In the absence of red brake grease can I just apply brake fluid as lubricant to do the rebuild or should i bite the bullet and get the red brake grease. About the only red grease I could fine was on Amazon and it was pretty pricey, $16.00 plus $8.00 shipping. > > > Any advice would be appreciated. > > > Best, > > > Bob > > > ?72 TR6 > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Supporthttp://Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > > > 6pack at autox.team.net mailto:6pack at autox.team.net > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/richardolindsay at gmail.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca Sun May 17 12:10:35 2020 From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (Art McEwen) Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 14:10:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] Tr3a steering tight after rebuild Message-ID: Re-installed my rebuilt steering box and, even though it felt fine on the bench, back in the car the steering is significantly tighter. Not quite a parking lot 3-point turn level of effort but well beyond finger tip effort. And this is while still up on jacks with the set screw backed right off. I loosened off the shim cover bolts thinking I was too tight but no difference. It doesn't feel like it's binding at any point of the travel, it's tight lock to lock. I waited until the shaft was reassembled before tightening the box attachment bolts so the box would align to the shaft, not vice versa. Could this really all be down to resistance from the 2 new bearings in the split shaft (plenty of grease added) and the new felt at the steering wheel? Also should the upper felt be greased/oiled? Thanks, Art. 60tr From terryrs at comcast.net Sun May 17 12:24:39 2020 From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH) Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 14:24:39 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Fwd: Float Bowl Insulators In-Reply-To: References: <1930781387.284293.1589726398273@connect.xfinity.com> Message-ID: <1237308953.287281.1589739882539@connect.xfinity.com> Yep. Thanks, David. Carb socks????? > On May 17, 2020 at 11:04 AM David Griffiths wrote: > > > > > > > Begin forwarded message: > > > > From: TERRY SMITH > > Subject: [TR] Float Bowl Insulators > > Date: 17 May 2020 at 16:39:58 GMT+2 > > To: triumphs > > Reply-To: TERRY SMITH > > > > Hello everyone. I seem to remember seeing little bag type insulators that cover SU float bowls. Don't see them at Moss or TRF, though. Anybody have a bead on where to find them???? > > > > Thanks, > > Terry Smith, '59 TR3A TS 58667 > > New Hampshire > > > > > Carb socks? > Perhaps you are thinking of these? > https://su-rebuilders.com/products/su-flaot-bowl-heat-insulation-sock > > All the best, > Dave > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From auprichard at uprichard.net Sun May 17 13:21:12 2020 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (andrew uprichard) Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 15:21:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] Tr3a steering tight after rebuild In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <004501d62c80$570f60f0$052e22d0$@uprichard.net> (Where is Randall when you need him? ?) When you say "significantly tighter" is this turning the steering with the tie rods connected ? You should be able to turn the steering wheel with a finger tip if the car is in the air. You should also be able to grab a wheel and take it through its full range of motion (everything connected) fairly easily. The felt at the steering wheel should not be an issue - and, if anything, should just be soaked in oil prior to installation. If it is binding, and not eased by loosening the box (and, by inference, the pressure on the peg) it is probably related more to the shims at the bottom of the box than the bearings themselves. Did you follow the method Randall suggests with measuring end-float and shimming appropriately? Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan -----Original Message----- From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Art McEwen Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2020 2:11 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Tr3a steering tight after rebuild Re-installed my rebuilt steering box and, even though it felt fine on the bench, back in the car the steering is significantly tighter. Not quite a parking lot 3-point turn level of effort but well beyond finger tip effort. And this is while still up on jacks with the set screw backed right off. I loosened off the shim cover bolts thinking I was too tight but no difference. It doesn't feel like it's binding at any point of the travel, it's tight lock to lock. I waited until the shaft was reassembled before tightening the box attachment bolts so the box would align to the shaft, not vice versa. Could this really all be down to resistance from the 2 new bearings in the split shaft (plenty of grease added) and the new felt at the steering wheel? Also should the upper felt be greased/oiled? Thanks, Art. 60tr ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca Sun May 17 14:35:54 2020 From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (Art McEwen) Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 16:35:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] Tr3a steering tight after rebuild In-Reply-To: <004501d62c80$570f60f0$052e22d0$@uprichard.net> References: <004501d62c80$570f60f0$052e22d0$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <1BF9C89E-228C-4758-9F88-A631C2142ABB@cogeco.ca> The tie rods added to stiffness that was already there. I used the remove-shims-until-no-more-play method. I've since resplit the shaft and I think some of it has come from either end but I'm going to pull the box out again and bring it back to the bench. > On May 17, 2020, at 3:21 PM, andrew uprichard wrote: > > (Where is Randall when you need him? ?) > > When you say "significantly tighter" is this turning the steering with the tie rods connected ? You should be able to turn the steering wheel with a finger tip if the car is in the air. You should also be able to grab a wheel and take it through its full range of motion (everything connected) fairly easily. > > The felt at the steering wheel should not be an issue - and, if anything, should just be soaked in oil prior to installation. > > If it is binding, and not eased by loosening the box (and, by inference, the pressure on the peg) it is probably related more to the shims at the bottom of the box than the bearings themselves. Did you follow the method Randall suggests with measuring end-float and shimming appropriately? > > Andrew Uprichard > Jackson, Michigan > > -----Original Message----- > From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Art McEwen > Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2020 2:11 PM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] Tr3a steering tight after rebuild > > Re-installed my rebuilt steering box and, even though it felt fine on the bench, back in the car the steering is significantly tighter. Not quite a parking lot 3-point turn level of effort but well beyond finger tip effort. And this is while still up on jacks with the set screw backed right off. I loosened off the shim cover bolts thinking I was too tight but no difference. It doesn't feel like it's binding at any point of the travel, it's tight lock to lock. I waited until the shaft was reassembled before tightening the box attachment bolts so the box would align to the shaft, not vice versa. > > Could this really all be down to resistance from the 2 new bearings in the split shaft (plenty of grease added) and the new felt at the steering wheel? > > Also should the upper felt be greased/oiled? > > Thanks, > > Art. 60tr > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net > From forzion7 at gmail.com Sun May 17 15:01:32 2020 From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander) Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 17:01:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fwd: Float Bowl Insulators In-Reply-To: <1237308953.287281.1589739882539@connect.xfinity.com> References: <1930781387.284293.1589726398273@connect.xfinity.com> <1237308953.287281.1589739882539@connect.xfinity.com> Message-ID: Since they're Brit, the least they could do is make them Argyle socks!! On Sun, May 17, 2020, 2:39 PM TERRY SMITH wrote: > Yep. Thanks, David. > > Carb socks????? > > > On May 17, 2020 at 11:04 AM David Griffiths wrote: > > > > Begin forwarded message: > > *From: * TERRY SMITH > *Subject: * *[TR] Float Bowl Insulators* > *Date: * 17 May 2020 at 16:39:58 GMT+2 > *To: * triumphs > *Reply-To: * TERRY SMITH > > Hello everyone. I seem to remember seeing little bag type insulators that > cover SU float bowls. Don't see them at Moss or TRF, though. Anybody have > a bead on where to find them???? > > Thanks, > Terry Smith, '59 TR3A TS 58667 > New Hampshire > > > Carb socks? > Perhaps you are thinking of these? > https://su-rebuilders.com/products/su-flaot-bowl-heat-insulation-sock > > All the best, > Dave > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at comcast.net > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From john at linneyweb.com Sun May 17 19:05:40 2020 From: john at linneyweb.com (John Linney) Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 18:05:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] Looking for a TR3 Message-ID: <07E77B6A-4FD4-44BE-A483-EE62E4EC622A@linneyweb.com> A friend of mine just tragically lost his TR3B in a hit-and-run rear-end which totaled the car. Does anyone know of a TR3/A/B for sale? John From auprichard at uprichard.net Mon May 18 05:37:55 2020 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (andrew uprichard) Date: Mon, 18 May 2020 07:37:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] Looking for a TR3 In-Reply-To: <07E77B6A-4FD4-44BE-A483-EE62E4EC622A@linneyweb.com> References: <07E77B6A-4FD4-44BE-A483-EE62E4EC622A@linneyweb.com> Message-ID: <005301d62d08$c6bbc0f0$543342d0$@uprichard.net> I have a fully-restored car which was going to Switzerland but the dealer has been hit hard by Covid and can no longer buy it. If your friend is interested, have him contact me off-list. Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan -----Original Message----- From: Triumphs On Behalf Of John Linney Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2020 9:06 PM To: TR3 Triumphs Subject: [TR] Looking for a TR3 A friend of mine just tragically lost his TR3B in a hit-and-run rear-end which totaled the car. Does anyone know of a TR3/A/B for sale? John ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_20200229_110753.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3509190 bytes Desc: not available URL: From auprichard at uprichard.net Mon May 18 06:08:16 2020 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (andrew uprichard) Date: Mon, 18 May 2020 08:08:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] Looking for a TR3 References: <07E77B6A-4FD4-44BE-A483-EE62E4EC622A@linneyweb.com> Message-ID: <013801d62d0d$03d258b0$0b770a10$@uprichard.net> It is a TCF TR3B with matching engine. -----Original Message----- From: andrew uprichard Sent: Monday, May 18, 2020 7:38 AM To: 'John Linney' ; 'TR3 Triumphs' Subject: RE: [TR] Looking for a TR3 I have a fully-restored car which was going to Switzerland but the dealer has been hit hard by Covid and can no longer buy it. If your friend is interested, have him contact me off-list. Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan -----Original Message----- From: Triumphs On Behalf Of John Linney Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2020 9:06 PM To: TR3 Triumphs Subject: [TR] Looking for a TR3 A friend of mine just tragically lost his TR3B in a hit-and-run rear-end which totaled the car. Does anyone know of a TR3/A/B for sale? John ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From rrochlin at comcast.net Mon May 18 06:34:58 2020 From: rrochlin at comcast.net (Rochlin Robert) Date: Mon, 18 May 2020 08:34:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Master Cylinder Rebuild In-Reply-To: References: <3C253303-61DC-455B-B37B-2EA032DD788C@comcast.net> <1042483499.289465.1589733562892@connect.xfinity.com> Message-ID: <19B91467-DF28-415D-A5A5-F4A92C90529C@comcast.net> Thanks for all the informed replies. I very much appreciate the advice. I did source hydraulic assembly grease form British Parts Northwest and will attempt to rebuild the master, and if that fails to repair the problem, I?ll source a new one. This is kind of one of those ?The journey is more important the destination? projects while I?m sticking around the house The master cylinder that I had totally fail had been re-sleeved as part of the original rebuild process. We are fortunate to have an array of options in repairing our old Triumph cars. In watching automobile restoration shows, Im amazed at the lengths and expense that restorers have to go to get replacement parts. In most cases we are only a phone call (mouse click) away from a part. After the m/c rebuild is finished I'll have caught up with the necessary maintenance on my cars and will move on to unnecessary maintenance. Thanks again all for the help and suggestions. Stay safe. Best, Bob ?72 Tr6 > On May 17, 2020, at 1:58 PM, Don Hiscock wrote: > > Why bother to rebuild an old one when new ones are available? I like the finish on the original Girling master cylinders, and I trust a brass-sleeved original more than a modern Chinese knockoff. The price for something I'll likely do once in my life isn't a big consideration. That my car still has the master cylinders it was build with makes me happy. > > But Standard-Triumph always appealed to "frugal" owners, so I get that a simple drop-in chinesium replica will be attractive to many owners. > > On Sun, May 17, 2020 at 11:46 AM DAVE HOGYE > wrote: > If a new master cylinder is available, why bother with trying to rebuild an old one? I know that a rebuild kit is just a few dollars, but sending it off to have it rebuilt adds a lot to the cost. I have never rebuilt a master that was available new. Time is money and bent panels and paint repair are too, beside being dangerous. I learned very early in my mechanic learning to renew the brake fluid at least on an annual basis. This saves components from failure and adds long life to them. Wilwood and others make excellent replacement masters for the TR3 and they are at the most $80 new. At this cost, it does not make sense to rebuild one. I understand the TR6 has a different style master and may be more costly. > Good luck for good brakes. > Dave H. >> On May 17, 2020 at 6:44 AM Robert Rochlin > wrote: >> >> Hi Richard, >> I sent my m/c off to a reputable (I thought ) rebuilder for a complete rebuild and installed it back installed it in the TR6. As I recall it worked fine for a short time and then on day I was puling out of the garage and the brakes totally failed. The TR6 rolled int my P/U truck dented the door, and pushed in the front o the Tr6 hood. A very expensive afternoon. I sent the m/c back to the rebuilder as I had time to kill while the body shop fixed the TR6. They rebuilt the m/c again gratis and I reinstalled it. After about 8 months the m/c started to fail again, but slowly? I replaced it with a new Girling and it has gone several seasons working fine but now I?m getting the slow sinking pedal. Before replacing it again I am going to replace the seals myself. >> Although I?ve had good luck with several rebuilt components including starters, carburetors, shocks, and distributers, I?ll never send a master cylinder to a rebuilder again. >> Best, >> Bob >> >>> On May 17, 2020, at 8:58 AM, Richard Lindsay < richardolindsay at gmail.com > wrote: >>> >>> Hello Bob, et al., >>> >>> Glad you're well. Here is south Texas we too are relaxing the stay-at-home order and the older people (like me) are beginning to venture out, if still maintaining safe separation. The 'younglings' seem to think an All Clear has been sounded and they're back face to face. I wish them luck. >>> >>> I have had two, fresh from the box, M/Cs fail then a third, working fine. I don't wish to directly name and disparage the vendor since they are always quite willing to make things right, but their name does grow on the 'north side of the tree'. The question I ponder and why I am writing is to ask is: How did your M/Cs fail? >>> In one of my unit's failures, fresh from the box, the front brake circuit worked fine (that's the one closer to the booster) but the rear brake circuit would flow no fluid. The second unit would flow no fluid through either circuit! The third M/C worked perfectly and still works great today! >>> >>> Did I get two poorly or incorrectly rebuilt cylinders? Someone in China just make mistakes? Did I do something wrong? Thus I ask: How did your M/C "fail catastrophically?" >>> >>> -rick >>> >>> On Sun, May 17, 2020, 6:38 AM Robert Rochlin via 6pack < 6pack at autox.team.net > wrote: >>> I hope everyone is hanging in there and doing well in this time of quarantine. It down?t look like here in Massachusetts the stay at home order will be completely lifted for several of more weeks, but some business slowly are beginning to be be allowed to reopen. >>> I?ve had a checkered history with master cylinders. In the past I?ve sent m/c off to be rebuilt by reputable rebuilders only to have them catastrophically fail soon after reinstallation. I?m figuring that I can improve on that record. When I went to the Buckeye Triumph site to review the rebuild process the article recommended red grease. I don?t have any, but I do have Volvo silicone breaks grease. In the absence of red brake grease can I just apply brake fluid as lubricant to do the rebuild or should i bite the bullet and get the red brake grease. About the only red grease I could fine was on Amazon and it was pretty pricey, $16.00 plus $8.00 shipping. >>> Any advice would be appreciated. >>> Best, >>> Bob >>> ?72 TR6 >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> >>> 6pack at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/richardolindsay at gmail.com >>> >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye at comcast.net > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net Mon May 18 06:56:55 2020 From: tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net (Tomislav Marincic) Date: Mon, 18 May 2020 08:56:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] Update on low oil pressure situation Message-ID: ? ?However the mix-up occurred (probably too many cranks being handled at the same time)...? Hmm...reminds me of a movie I saw back when I was in the Navy... Sent from my iPad -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From john at linneyweb.com Mon May 18 09:52:25 2020 From: john at linneyweb.com (John Linney) Date: Mon, 18 May 2020 08:52:25 -0700 Subject: [TR] Looking for a TR3 In-Reply-To: <013801d62d0d$03d258b0$0b770a10$@uprichard.net> References: <013801d62d0d$03d258b0$0b770a10$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: Hi Andrew. Your car looks beautiful. I?ve Cc?ed my friend, Mike, here by way of introduction. Looks like a great opportunity to keep this one in the US. -john > On May 18, 2020, at 5:08 AM, andrew uprichard wrote: > > ?It is a TCF TR3B with matching engine. > > -----Original Message----- > From: andrew uprichard > Sent: Monday, May 18, 2020 7:38 AM > To: 'John Linney' ; 'TR3 Triumphs' > > Subject: RE: [TR] Looking for a TR3 > > I have a fully-restored car which was going to Switzerland but the dealer > has been hit hard by Covid and can no longer buy it. If your friend is > interested, have him contact me off-list. > > Andrew Uprichard > Jackson, Michigan > > -----Original Message----- > From: Triumphs On Behalf Of John Linney > Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2020 9:06 PM > To: TR3 Triumphs > Subject: [TR] Looking for a TR3 > > A friend of mine just tragically lost his TR3B in a hit-and-run rear-end > which totaled the car. Does anyone know of a TR3/A/B for sale? > > John > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net > > From terryrs at comcast.net Mon May 18 16:15:06 2020 From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH) Date: Mon, 18 May 2020 18:15:06 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Timing Message-ID: <1334510320.424027.1589840106929@connect.xfinity.com> Curious. I've been having a problem with re-start after running the TR3 hard. I've adjusted the valves, checked and rechecked the float valves, changed the points and condenser (since these have been listed as potential issues when they get hot), repositioned the heat guard over the manifold, and even finally got around to installing the electric fan I've been putting off. And I've readjusted the timing today. Not much, just backed off until it bogged down a bit. Car seems to be even more responsive to throttle than before but--bonus--a couple of test runs indicate it starts again easily. I doubt I got it as hot as it could be, but was definitely operating temperature. So...English Major question to all of you who actually work on cars outside the spread of a shade tree...How touchy is timing relative to start up after running? (I just remember on numerous occasions seeing big v-8's cranking, cranking, cranking before finally starting, and someone telling me the timing was off.) Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire, where when you eliminate the possible, that leaves the impossible. Read that as working on your car outside when New England's blackflies bugs are out full-force. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bkharding at canby.com Mon May 18 17:53:51 2020 From: bkharding at canby.com (bkharding at canby.com) Date: Mon, 18 May 2020 16:53:51 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Vitesse OD Identification Message-ID: <821430301.8755474.1589846031277.JavaMail.zimbra@canby.com> Background: My 1967 Vitesse was a Switzerland issue car. It was shipped without an OD but the original owners added one. The past year I've been having a sometimes delayed response getting into OD.... sometimes I have to flip the switch several times to get it to engage. Today I removed the seats, carpet, and trans tunnel to clean the filter that is on the left side of the OD. I was stunned that the OD was different than the ones shown in my Vitesse/GT6 manuals and online. The solenoid was on the left towards the bottom of the trans and if there is a filter/screen to clean is must be on the very bottom of the OD as I couldn't see one from the top and the exhaust system prevents me from seeing the bottom. Pictures are hopefully attached. I think the problem was the mechanical switch on the transmission linkage that inhibits the OD from engaging in 1st, 2nd, and reverse was loose and in fact flaky but I'm perplexed as to what the OD came out of. On the flange of the OD Stanpart MAT 3280 is on the right front OD flange. On left side 883133085 116429 is stamped on the front left OD flange and SG 7388 -3 -L 115314 is stamped on the left case of the OD. Any ideas on what this OD came out of? A Volvo maybe? Thanks, Bruce Harding -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: vit od 1 LR.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 155576 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: vit od 2 lr.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 169610 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: vit od 3 lr.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 144948 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ptegler at verizon.net Mon May 18 18:55:55 2020 From: ptegler at verizon.net (Paul Tegler) Date: Mon, 18 May 2020 20:55:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] Vitesse OD Identification In-Reply-To: <821430301.8755474.1589846031277.JavaMail.zimbra@canby.com> References: <821430301.8755474.1589846031277.JavaMail.zimbra@canby.com> Message-ID: <2a17691c-7d64-68ce-bd7c-adcd914cb905@verizon.net> that's a late j-type o/d on a 3-rail GT6 box. Rarer setup but not -uncommon. yes...they delay a bit before dropping into o/d compared to the hard 'bang' of a d-type. A slight lift in power and it should engage sooner. If not, time for a oil change. Some say straight 30WT non-detergent, I've always run the factory spec Castrol Hypoy 90. Actually they are the same viscosity. The difference is the gear oil has shear additives where the motor oil does not. ptegler On 5/18/2020 7:53 PM, bkharding at canby.com wrote: > Background:? My 1967 Vitesse was a Switzerland issue car.? It was > shipped without an OD but the original owners added one.? The past > year I've been having a sometimes delayed response getting into OD.... > sometimes I have to flip the switch several times to get it to engage. > > Today I removed the seats, carpet, and trans tunnel to clean the > filter that is on the left side of the OD.? I was stunned that the OD > was different than the ones shown in my Vitesse/GT6 manuals and > online.? The solenoid was on the left towards the bottom of the trans > and if there is a filter/screen to clean is must be on the very bottom > of the OD as I couldn't see one from the top and the exhaust system > prevents me from seeing the bottom.? Pictures are hopefully attached.? > I think the problem was the mechanical switch on the transmission > linkage that inhibits the OD from engaging in 1st, 2nd, and reverse > was loose and in fact flaky but I'm perplexed as to what the OD came > out of.? On the flange of the OD > > Stanpart MAT 3280 > > is on the right front OD flange.? On left side > > 883133085 116429 > > is stamped on the front left OD flange and > > SG 7388 -3 -L > 115314 > > is stamped on the left case of the OD. > > Any ideas on what this OD came out of?? A Volvo maybe? > > > Thanks, > Bruce Harding > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net -- Paul Tegler ptegler at verizon.net www.teglerizer.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: vit od 1 LR.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 155576 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: vit od 2 lr.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 169610 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: vit od 3 lr.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 144948 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bkharding at canby.com Mon May 18 22:02:35 2020 From: bkharding at canby.com (bkharding at canby.com) Date: Mon, 18 May 2020 21:02:35 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Vitesse OD Identification In-Reply-To: <2a17691c-7d64-68ce-bd7c-adcd914cb905@verizon.net> References: <821430301.8755474.1589846031277.JavaMail.zimbra@canby.com> <2a17691c-7d64-68ce-bd7c-adcd914cb905@verizon.net> Message-ID: <1934175489.8972930.1589860955646.JavaMail.zimbra@canby.com> Thanks Paul. Cheers, Bruce From: "Paul Tegler" To: "Bruce Harding" , "triumphs" Sent: Monday, May 18, 2020 5:55:55 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Vitesse OD Identification that's a late j-type o/d on a 3-rail GT6 box. Rarer setup but not -uncommon. yes...they delay a bit before dropping into o/d compared to the hard 'bang' of a d-type. A slight lift in power and it should engage sooner. If not, time for a oil change. Some say straight 30WT non-detergent, I've always run the factory spec Castrol Hypoy 90. Actually they are the same viscosity. The difference is the gear oil has shear additives where the motor oil does not. ptegler On 5/18/2020 7:53 PM, [ mailto:bkharding at canby.com | bkharding at canby.com ] wrote: Background: My 1967 Vitesse was a Switzerland issue car. It was shipped without an OD but the original owners added one. The past year I've been having a sometimes delayed response getting into OD.... sometimes I have to flip the switch several times to get it to engage. Today I removed the seats, carpet, and trans tunnel to clean the filter that is on the left side of the OD. I was stunned that the OD was different than the ones shown in my Vitesse/GT6 manuals and online. The solenoid was on the left towards the bottom of the trans and if there is a filter/screen to clean is must be on the very bottom of the OD as I couldn't see one from the top and the exhaust system prevents me from seeing the bottom. Pictures are hopefully attached. I think the problem was the mechanical switch on the transmission linkage that inhibits the OD from engaging in 1st, 2nd, and reverse was loose and in fact flaky but I'm perplexed as to what the OD came out of. On the flange of the OD Stanpart MAT 3280 is on the right front OD flange. On left side 883133085 116429 is stamped on the front left OD flange and SG 7388 -3 -L 115314 is stamped on the left case of the OD. Any ideas on what this OD came out of? A Volvo maybe? Thanks, Bruce Harding ** [ mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net | triumphs at autox.team.net ] ** Donate: [ http://www.team.net/donate.html | http://www.team.net/donate.html ] Archive: [ http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs | http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs ] [ http://www.team.net/archive | http://www.team.net/archive ] Unsubscribe/Manage: [ http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net | http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net ] -- Paul Tegler [ mailto:ptegler at verizon.net | ptegler at verizon.net ] [ http://www.teglerizer.com/ | www.teglerizer.com ] -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: vit od 1 LR.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 155576 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: vit od 2 lr.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 169610 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: vit od 3 lr.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 144948 bytes Desc: not available URL: From don.hiscock at gmail.com Sun May 17 11:58:51 2020 From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Sun, 17 May 2020 12:58:51 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Master Cylinder Rebuild In-Reply-To: <1042483499.289465.1589733562892@connect.xfinity.com> References: <3C253303-61DC-455B-B37B-2EA032DD788C@comcast.net> <1042483499.289465.1589733562892@connect.xfinity.com> Message-ID: Why bother to rebuild an old one when new ones are available? I like the finish on the original Girling master cylinders, and I trust a brass-sleeved original more than a modern Chinese knockoff. The price for something I'll likely do once in my life isn't a big consideration. That my car still has the master cylinders it was build with makes me happy. But Standard-Triumph always appealed to "frugal" owners, so I get that a simple drop-in chinesium replica will be attractive to many owners. On Sun, May 17, 2020 at 11:46 AM DAVE HOGYE wrote: > If a new master cylinder is available, why bother with trying to rebuild > an old one? I know that a rebuild kit is just a few dollars, but sending it > off to have it rebuilt adds a lot to the cost. I have never rebuilt a > master that was available new. Time is money and bent panels and paint > repair are too, beside being dangerous. I learned very early in my > mechanic learning to renew the brake fluid at least on an annual basis. > This saves components from failure and adds long life to them. Wilwood and > others make excellent replacement masters for the TR3 and they are at the > most $80 new. At this cost, it does not make sense to rebuild one. I > understand the TR6 has a different style master and may be more costly. > Good luck for good brakes. > Dave H. > > On May 17, 2020 at 6:44 AM Robert Rochlin wrote: > > Hi Richard, > I sent my m/c off to a reputable (I thought ) rebuilder for a complete > rebuild and installed it back installed it in the TR6. As I recall it > worked fine for a short time and then on day I was puling out of the garage > and the brakes totally failed. The TR6 rolled int my P/U truck dented the > door, and pushed in the front o the Tr6 hood. A very expensive afternoon. I > sent the m/c back to the rebuilder as I had time to kill while the body > shop fixed the TR6. They rebuilt the m/c again gratis and I reinstalled > it. After about 8 months the m/c started to fail again, but slowly? I > replaced it with a new Girling and it has gone several seasons working fine > but now I?m getting the slow sinking pedal. Before replacing it again I am > going to replace the seals myself. > Although I?ve had good luck with several rebuilt components including > starters, carburetors, shocks, and distributers, I?ll never send a master > cylinder to a rebuilder again. > Best, > Bob > > On May 17, 2020, at 8:58 AM, Richard Lindsay < richardolindsay at gmail.com> > wrote: > > Hello Bob, *et al.*, > > Glad you're well. Here is south Texas we too are relaxing the > stay-at-home order and the older people (like me) are beginning to venture > out, if still maintaining safe separation. The 'younglings' seem to think > an *All Clear* has been sounded and they're back face to face. I wish > them luck. > > I have had two, fresh from the box, M/Cs fail then a third, working > fine. I don't wish to directly name and disparage the vendor since they are > always quite willing to make things right, but their name does grow on the > 'north side of the tree'. The question I ponder and why I am writing is to > ask is: How did your M/Cs fail? > In one of my unit's failures, fresh from the box, the front brake > circuit worked fine (that's the one closer to the booster) but the rear > brake circuit would flow no fluid. The second unit would flow no fluid > through either circuit! The third M/C worked perfectly and still works > great today! > > Did I get two poorly or incorrectly rebuilt cylinders? Someone in China > just make mistakes? Did I do something wrong? Thus I ask: How did your M/C > "fail catastrophically?" > > -rick > > On Sun, May 17, 2020, 6:38 AM Robert Rochlin via 6pack < > 6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: > > I hope everyone is hanging in there and doing well in this time of > quarantine. It down?t look like here in Massachusetts the stay at home > order will be completely lifted for several of more weeks, but some > business slowly are beginning to be be allowed to reopen. > I?ve had a checkered history with master cylinders. In the past > I?ve sent m/c off to be rebuilt by reputable rebuilders only to have them > catastrophically fail soon after reinstallation. I?m figuring that I can > improve on that record. When I went to the Buckeye Triumph site to review > the rebuild process the article recommended red grease. I don?t have any, > but I do have Volvo silicone breaks grease. In the absence of red brake > grease can I just apply brake fluid as lubricant to do the rebuild or > should i bite the bullet and get the red brake grease. About the only red > grease I could fine was on Amazon and it was pretty pricey, $16.00 plus > $8.00 shipping. > Any advice would be appreciated. > Best, > Bob > ?72 TR6 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/richardolindsay at gmail.com > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye at comcast.net > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fishplate at gmail.com Tue May 19 12:54:55 2020 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Tue, 19 May 2020 14:54:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] Vitesse OD Identification In-Reply-To: <821430301.8755474.1589846031277.JavaMail.zimbra@canby.com> References: <821430301.8755474.1589846031277.JavaMail.zimbra@canby.com> Message-ID: The filter should be on the bottom under a rectangular plate. I use Redline MT-90 in mine. On Mon, May 18, 2020 at 8:05 PM wrote: > Background: My 1967 Vitesse was a Switzerland issue car. It was shipped > without an OD but the original owners added one. The past year I've been > having a sometimes delayed response getting into OD.... sometimes I have to > flip the switch several times to get it to engage. > > Today I removed the seats, carpet, and trans tunnel to clean the filter > that is on the left side of the OD. I was stunned that the OD was > different than the ones shown in my Vitesse/GT6 manuals and online. The > solenoid was on the left towards the bottom of the trans and if there is a > filter/screen to clean is must be on the very bottom of the OD as I > couldn't see one from the top and the exhaust system prevents me from > seeing the bottom. Pictures are hopefully attached. I think the problem > was the mechanical switch on the transmission linkage that inhibits the OD > from engaging in 1st, 2nd, and reverse was loose and in fact flaky but I'm > perplexed as to what the OD came out of. On the flange of the OD > > Stanpart MAT 3280 > > is on the right front OD flange. On left side > > 883133085 116429 > > is stamped on the front left OD flange and > > SG 7388 -3 -L > 115314 > > is stamped on the left case of the OD. > > Any ideas on what this OD came out of? A Volvo maybe? > > > Thanks, > Bruce Harding > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fishplate at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: vit od 1 LR.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 155576 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: vit od 2 lr.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 169610 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: vit od 3 lr.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 144948 bytes Desc: not available URL: From triumphstag at gmail.com Tue May 19 14:34:12 2020 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy) Date: Tue, 19 May 2020 13:34:12 -0700 Subject: [TR] Vitesse OD Identification In-Reply-To: References: <821430301.8755474.1589846031277.JavaMail.zimbra@canby.com> Message-ID: Looks like a J type overdrive. I put one of these from a UK Triumph Dolomite Sprint on my Stag. Sujit On Tue, May 19, 2020 at 12:18 PM Jeff Scarbrough wrote: > The filter should be on the bottom under a rectangular plate. I use > Redline MT-90 in mine. > > On Mon, May 18, 2020 at 8:05 PM wrote: > >> Background: My 1967 Vitesse was a Switzerland issue car. It was shipped >> without an OD but the original owners added one. The past year I've been >> having a sometimes delayed response getting into OD.... sometimes I have to >> flip the switch several times to get it to engage. >> >> Today I removed the seats, carpet, and trans tunnel to clean the filter >> that is on the left side of the OD. I was stunned that the OD was >> different than the ones shown in my Vitesse/GT6 manuals and online. The >> solenoid was on the left towards the bottom of the trans and if there is a >> filter/screen to clean is must be on the very bottom of the OD as I >> couldn't see one from the top and the exhaust system prevents me from >> seeing the bottom. Pictures are hopefully attached. I think the problem >> was the mechanical switch on the transmission linkage that inhibits the OD >> from engaging in 1st, 2nd, and reverse was loose and in fact flaky but I'm >> perplexed as to what the OD came out of. On the flange of the OD >> >> Stanpart MAT 3280 >> >> is on the right front OD flange. On left side >> >> 883133085 116429 >> >> is stamped on the front left OD flange and >> >> SG 7388 -3 -L >> 115314 >> >> is stamped on the left case of the OD. >> >> Any ideas on what this OD came out of? A Volvo maybe? >> >> >> Thanks, >> Bruce Harding >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs >> http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fishplate at gmail.com >> > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumphstag at gmail.com > -- Sujit Roy Cupertino, California https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: vit od 1 LR.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 155576 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: vit od 2 lr.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 169610 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: vit od 3 lr.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 144948 bytes Desc: not available URL: From triumphstag at gmail.com Tue May 19 14:35:45 2020 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy) Date: Tue, 19 May 2020 13:35:45 -0700 Subject: [TR] Vitesse OD Identification In-Reply-To: References: <821430301.8755474.1589846031277.JavaMail.zimbra@canby.com> Message-ID: Check the seals in the solenoid. You will need a thin wrench / spanner to undo the solenoid. Sujit On Tue, May 19, 2020 at 1:34 PM Sujit Roy wrote: > Looks like a J type overdrive. I put one of these from a UK Triumph > Dolomite Sprint on my Stag. > Sujit > > On Tue, May 19, 2020 at 12:18 PM Jeff Scarbrough > wrote: > >> The filter should be on the bottom under a rectangular plate. I use >> Redline MT-90 in mine. >> >> On Mon, May 18, 2020 at 8:05 PM wrote: >> >>> Background: My 1967 Vitesse was a Switzerland issue car. It was >>> shipped without an OD but the original owners added one. The past year >>> I've been having a sometimes delayed response getting into OD.... sometimes >>> I have to flip the switch several times to get it to engage. >>> >>> Today I removed the seats, carpet, and trans tunnel to clean the filter >>> that is on the left side of the OD. I was stunned that the OD was >>> different than the ones shown in my Vitesse/GT6 manuals and online. The >>> solenoid was on the left towards the bottom of the trans and if there is a >>> filter/screen to clean is must be on the very bottom of the OD as I >>> couldn't see one from the top and the exhaust system prevents me from >>> seeing the bottom. Pictures are hopefully attached. I think the problem >>> was the mechanical switch on the transmission linkage that inhibits the OD >>> from engaging in 1st, 2nd, and reverse was loose and in fact flaky but I'm >>> perplexed as to what the OD came out of. On the flange of the OD >>> >>> Stanpart MAT 3280 >>> >>> is on the right front OD flange. On left side >>> >>> 883133085 116429 >>> >>> is stamped on the front left OD flange and >>> >>> SG 7388 -3 -L >>> 115314 >>> >>> is stamped on the left case of the OD. >>> >>> Any ideas on what this OD came out of? A Volvo maybe? >>> >>> >>> Thanks, >>> Bruce Harding >>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs >>> http://www.team.net/archive >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fishplate at gmail.com >>> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs >> http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumphstag at gmail.com >> > > > -- > Sujit Roy > Cupertino, California > > https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ > > -- Sujit Roy Cupertino, California https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: vit od 1 LR.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 155576 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: vit od 2 lr.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 169610 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: vit od 3 lr.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 144948 bytes Desc: not available URL: From terryrs at comcast.net Wed May 20 02:39:01 2020 From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH) Date: Wed, 20 May 2020 04:39:01 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Anybody interested in saving these? Message-ID: <2042919595.354.1589963941553@connect.xfinity.com> https://boston.craigslist.org/bmw/pts/d/newton-1959-triumph-tr3/7126288323.html -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From auprichard at uprichard.net Wed May 20 05:38:51 2020 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (andrew uprichard) Date: Wed, 20 May 2020 07:38:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] Anybody interested in saving these? In-Reply-To: <2042919595.354.1589963941553@connect.xfinity.com> References: <2042919595.354.1589963941553@connect.xfinity.com> Message-ID: <00a001d62e9b$3cfa3f10$b6eebd30$@uprichard.net> Go for it, Terry! I would if I still lived there. Andrew From: Triumphs On Behalf Of TERRY SMITH Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2020 4:39 AM To: triumphs Subject: [TR] Anybody interested in saving these? https://boston.craigslist.org/bmw/pts/d/newton-1959-triumph-tr3/7126288323.html -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From triumphstag at gmail.com Thu May 21 11:33:48 2020 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy) Date: Thu, 21 May 2020 10:33:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] Evapo-Rust has the formula changed? Message-ID: I like this and have been using it for a few years now. but have noticed the new batch is a different color, more clear, and appears more liquidy. It seems to wok but seems to go black quicker. Anyone folks using this stuff noticed similar observations? Do I need to find something else? Sujit -- Sujit Roy Cupertino, California https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From don.hiscock at gmail.com Thu May 21 11:54:04 2020 From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Thu, 21 May 2020 12:54:04 -0500 Subject: [TR] Evapo-Rust has the formula changed? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: There are two suppliers of Evapo-Rust, due to some weird licensing I've never figured out. There's "real" Evapo-Rust in the silver-gray container from Harris International Labs, and there's "licensed" Evapo-Rust from Orison Marketing. It may be arbitrary and non-technical, but I will only use silver-gray "real" Evapo-Rust now. I think it works better. Which one are you referring to, Sujit? For those who don't know the stuff, here's some recent fun I had with some old spark plugs left in a workbench drawer by the previous owners of my house twenty-plus years ago. These plugs are older than that. Before and after Evapo-Rust shown. https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-dZHgWFf/0/b8d9aad5/X5/i-dZHgWFf-X5.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-GRnjRNV/0/977f00be/X5/i-GRnjRNV-X5.jpg Here's the hose clamp from the original heater on my TR3B before and after Evapo-Rust. https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-JsZ3sbQ/0/fff5f613/X5/i-JsZ3sbQ-X5.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-ZJtx4z7/0/4d9f81b5/X5/i-ZJtx4z7-X5.jpg On Thu, May 21, 2020 at 12:39 PM Sujit Roy wrote: > I like this and have been using it for a few years now. but have noticed > the new batch is a different color, more clear, and appears more liquidy. > It seems to wok but seems to go black quicker. > > Anyone folks using this stuff noticed similar observations? Do I need to > find something else? > > Sujit > > -- > Sujit Roy > Cupertino, California > > https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From notakitcar at yahoo.com Thu May 21 13:07:47 2020 From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher) Date: Thu, 21 May 2020 14:07:47 -0500 Subject: [TR] Evapo-Rust has the formula changed? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <66D9ED3E-6237-4C3E-9204-48905E613DAC@yahoo.com> Is it this one, or the gel? Serenity Now...... On May 21, 2020, at 12:58 PM, Don Hiscock wrote: ? There are two suppliers of Evapo-Rust, due to some weird licensing I've never figured out. There's "real" Evapo-Rust in the silver-gray container from Harris International Labs, and there's "licensed" Evapo-Rust from Orison Marketing. It may be arbitrary and non-technical, but I will only use silver-gray "real" Evapo-Rust now. I think it works better. Which one are you referring to, Sujit? For those who don't know the stuff, here's some recent fun I had with some old spark plugs left in a workbench drawer by the previous owners of my house twenty-plus years ago. These plugs are older than that. Before and after Evapo-Rust shown. https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-dZHgWFf/0/b8d9aad5/X5/i-dZHgWFf-X5.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-GRnjRNV/0/977f00be/X5/i-GRnjRNV-X5.jpg Here's the hose clamp from the original heater on my TR3B before and after Evapo-Rust. https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-JsZ3sbQ/0/fff5f613/X5/i-JsZ3sbQ-X5.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-ZJtx4z7/0/4d9f81b5/X5/i-ZJtx4z7-X5.jpg > On Thu, May 21, 2020 at 12:39 PM Sujit Roy wrote: > I like this and have been using it for a few years now. but have noticed the new batch is a different color, more clear, and appears more liquidy. It seems to wok but seems to go black quicker. > > Anyone folks using this stuff noticed similar observations? Do I need to find something else? > > Sujit > > -- > Sujit Roy > Cupertino, California > > https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 41M8iEFdMGL.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 27516 bytes Desc: not available URL: From notakitcar at yahoo.com Thu May 21 13:07:47 2020 From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher) Date: Thu, 21 May 2020 14:07:47 -0500 Subject: [TR] Evapo-Rust has the formula changed? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <66D9ED3E-6237-4C3E-9204-48905E613DAC@yahoo.com> Is it this one, or the gel? Serenity Now...... On May 21, 2020, at 12:58 PM, Don Hiscock wrote: ? There are two suppliers of Evapo-Rust, due to some weird licensing I've never figured out. There's "real" Evapo-Rust in the silver-gray container from Harris International Labs, and there's "licensed" Evapo-Rust from Orison Marketing. It may be arbitrary and non-technical, but I will only use silver-gray "real" Evapo-Rust now. I think it works better. Which one are you referring to, Sujit? For those who don't know the stuff, here's some recent fun I had with some old spark plugs left in a workbench drawer by the previous owners of my house twenty-plus years ago. These plugs are older than that. Before and after Evapo-Rust shown. https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-dZHgWFf/0/b8d9aad5/X5/i-dZHgWFf-X5.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-GRnjRNV/0/977f00be/X5/i-GRnjRNV-X5.jpg Here's the hose clamp from the original heater on my TR3B before and after Evapo-Rust. https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-JsZ3sbQ/0/fff5f613/X5/i-JsZ3sbQ-X5.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-ZJtx4z7/0/4d9f81b5/X5/i-ZJtx4z7-X5.jpg > On Thu, May 21, 2020 at 12:39 PM Sujit Roy wrote: > I like this and have been using it for a few years now. but have noticed the new batch is a different color, more clear, and appears more liquidy. It seems to wok but seems to go black quicker. > > Anyone folks using this stuff noticed similar observations? Do I need to find something else? > > Sujit > > -- > Sujit Roy > Cupertino, California > > https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 41M8iEFdMGL.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 27516 bytes Desc: not available URL: From don.hiscock at gmail.com Thu May 21 13:41:41 2020 From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Thu, 21 May 2020 14:41:41 -0500 Subject: [TR] Evapo-Rust has the formula changed? In-Reply-To: <66D9ED3E-6237-4C3E-9204-48905E613DAC@yahoo.com> References: <66D9ED3E-6237-4C3E-9204-48905E613DAC@yahoo.com> Message-ID: That's the one I use all the time, Bill. I have some things in an Evapo-Rust bath as we speak, in fact. Check online (Amazon, perhaps) -- sometimes they have a 3.5-gallon pail with a parts basket strainer for a good price. The stuff isn't cheap, unfortunately. About $10-15/gallon is a decent price. Some people initially think Evapo-Rust is like naval jelly or one of the many other phosphoric acid-based rust treatments, a brush-on/spray on system. It's not. It's a dilute, gentle amber watery fluid in which parts are immersed in for anywhere from hours to days. It works for a while until it gets black and exhausted, whereupon it's pitched for fresh. The black stuff, as best the chemist in me can guess, is reduced iron as the oxide has electrons donated to it by Evapo-Rust converting it to elemental iron or a sulfide. I'm guessing Evapo-Rust is a reducing agent, an electron donor, not an acid like naval jelly, vinegar, muriatic acid, citric acid or the other "etching" systems commonly used. (There's a chance, I guess, that it's some sort of buffered acid. I don't think so, but I need to beg/borrow/steal some analytical time from friends to see what we can measure.) On Thu, May 21, 2020 at 2:07 PM bill beecher wrote: > Is it this one, or the gel? > > > > Serenity Now...... > > On May 21, 2020, at 12:58 PM, Don Hiscock wrote: > > ? > There are two suppliers of Evapo-Rust, due to some weird licensing I've > never figured out. There's "real" Evapo-Rust in the silver-gray container > from Harris International Labs, and there's "licensed" Evapo-Rust from > Orison Marketing. > > It may be arbitrary and non-technical, but I will only use silver-gray > "real" Evapo-Rust now. I think it works better. Which one are you > referring to, Sujit? > > For those who don't know the stuff, here's some recent fun I had with some > old spark plugs left in a workbench drawer by the previous owners of my > house twenty-plus years ago. These plugs are older than that. Before and > after Evapo-Rust shown. > https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-dZHgWFf/0/b8d9aad5/X5/i-dZHgWFf-X5.jpg > https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-GRnjRNV/0/977f00be/X5/i-GRnjRNV-X5.jpg > > Here's the hose clamp from the original heater on my TR3B before and after > Evapo-Rust. > https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-JsZ3sbQ/0/fff5f613/X5/i-JsZ3sbQ-X5.jpg > https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-ZJtx4z7/0/4d9f81b5/X5/i-ZJtx4z7-X5.jpg > > > > On Thu, May 21, 2020 at 12:39 PM Sujit Roy wrote: > >> I like this and have been using it for a few years now. but have noticed >> the new batch is a different color, more clear, and appears more liquidy. >> It seems to wok but seems to go black quicker. >> >> Anyone folks using this stuff noticed similar observations? Do I need to >> find something else? >> >> Sujit >> >> -- >> Sujit Roy >> Cupertino, California >> >> https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs >> http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com >> > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 41M8iEFdMGL.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 27516 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bkahler1 at gmail.com Thu May 21 13:48:12 2020 From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Thu, 21 May 2020 15:48:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] Evapo-Rust has the formula changed? In-Reply-To: References: <66D9ED3E-6237-4C3E-9204-48905E613DAC@yahoo.com> Message-ID: I've been using Evapo-rust a lot lately with great results. As discussed it does wear out over time. However I have also found out that it still works as a great paint remover even after it stops removing rust. I've got 3 gallons of the stuff in a container that no longer removes rust and I've been soaking parts in to remove the paint. It works phenomenally well. Brad Virus-free. www.avg.com <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> On Thu, May 21, 2020 at 3:42 PM Don Hiscock wrote: > That's the one I use all the time, Bill. I have some things in an > Evapo-Rust bath as we speak, in fact. Check online (Amazon, perhaps) -- > sometimes they have a 3.5-gallon pail with a parts basket strainer for a > good price. The stuff isn't cheap, unfortunately. About $10-15/gallon is > a decent price. > > Some people initially think Evapo-Rust is like naval jelly or one of the > many other phosphoric acid-based rust treatments, a brush-on/spray on > system. It's not. It's a dilute, gentle amber watery fluid in which parts > are immersed in for anywhere from hours to days. It works for a while > until it gets black and exhausted, whereupon it's pitched for fresh. The > black stuff, as best the chemist in me can guess, is reduced iron as the > oxide has electrons donated to it by Evapo-Rust converting it to elemental > iron or a sulfide. I'm guessing Evapo-Rust is a reducing agent, an > electron donor, not an acid like naval jelly, vinegar, muriatic acid, > citric acid or the other "etching" systems commonly used. (There's a > chance, I guess, that it's some sort of buffered acid. I don't think so, > but I need to beg/borrow/steal some analytical time from friends to see > what we can measure.) > > On Thu, May 21, 2020 at 2:07 PM bill beecher wrote: > >> Is it this one, or the gel? >> >> >> >> Serenity Now...... >> >> On May 21, 2020, at 12:58 PM, Don Hiscock wrote: >> >> ? >> There are two suppliers of Evapo-Rust, due to some weird licensing I've >> never figured out. There's "real" Evapo-Rust in the silver-gray container >> from Harris International Labs, and there's "licensed" Evapo-Rust from >> Orison Marketing. >> >> It may be arbitrary and non-technical, but I will only use silver-gray >> "real" Evapo-Rust now. I think it works better. Which one are you >> referring to, Sujit? >> >> For those who don't know the stuff, here's some recent fun I had >> with some old spark plugs left in a workbench drawer by the previous owners >> of my house twenty-plus years ago. These plugs are older than that. >> Before and after Evapo-Rust shown. >> https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-dZHgWFf/0/b8d9aad5/X5/i-dZHgWFf-X5.jpg >> https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-GRnjRNV/0/977f00be/X5/i-GRnjRNV-X5.jpg >> >> Here's the hose clamp from the original heater on my TR3B before and >> after Evapo-Rust. >> https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-JsZ3sbQ/0/fff5f613/X5/i-JsZ3sbQ-X5.jpg >> https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-ZJtx4z7/0/4d9f81b5/X5/i-ZJtx4z7-X5.jpg >> >> >> >> On Thu, May 21, 2020 at 12:39 PM Sujit Roy wrote: >> >>> I like this and have been using it for a few years now. but have noticed >>> the new batch is a different color, more clear, and appears more liquidy. >>> It seems to wok but seems to go black quicker. >>> >>> Anyone folks using this stuff noticed similar observations? Do I need to >>> find something else? >>> >>> Sujit >>> >>> -- >>> Sujit Roy >>> Cupertino, California >>> >>> https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ >>> >>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs >>> http://www.team.net/archive >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com >>> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs >> http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com >> > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bkahler1 at gmail.com > Virus-free. www.avg.com <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 41M8iEFdMGL.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 27516 bytes Desc: not available URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Thu May 21 14:05:53 2020 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Thu, 21 May 2020 20:05:53 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Evapo-Rust has the formula changed? In-Reply-To: References: <66D9ED3E-6237-4C3E-9204-48905E613DAC@yahoo.com> Message-ID: <675750955.2024773.1590091553619@mail.yahoo.com> I have been told that it is a chelate, an organic compound that bonds with metal atoms.? Some formulations are used heavy metal detoxification.? I've been told that it is non-toxic and you can drink it (I haven't tried).? I've also been told by one user that he pitches the used solution onto the grass with no ill effects. I've used it with good results but as you say, it doesn't work fast.? Over time it will start turning your parts black which, I guess, is an indication that it is time to replace it.? Dave -----Original Message----- From: Don Hiscock To: bill beecher Cc: Triumphs Sent: Thu, May 21, 2020 2:41 pm Subject: Re: [TR] Evapo-Rust has the formula changed? That's the?one I use all the time, Bill.? I have some things in an Evapo-Rust bath as we speak, in fact.? Check online (Amazon, perhaps) -- sometimes they have a 3.5-gallon pail with a parts basket strainer for a good price.? The stuff isn't cheap, unfortunately.? About $10-15/gallon is a decent price. Some people initially?think Evapo-Rust is like naval jelly or one of the many other phosphoric acid-based rust treatments, a brush-on/spray on system.? It's not.? It's a dilute, gentle amber watery fluid in which?parts are immersed in for anywhere from hours to days.? It works for a while until it gets black and exhausted, whereupon it's pitched for fresh.? The black stuff, as best the chemist in me can guess, is reduced iron as the oxide has electrons donated to it by Evapo-Rust converting it to elemental iron or a sulfide.? I'm guessing Evapo-Rust is a reducing agent, an electron donor, not an acid like naval jelly, vinegar, muriatic acid, citric acid or the other "etching" systems commonly used.? (There's a chance, I guess, that it's some sort of buffered acid.? I don't think?so, but I need to beg/borrow/steal some analytical time from friends to see what we can measure.) On Thu, May 21, 2020 at 2:07 PM bill beecher wrote: Is it this one, or the gel? Serenity Now...... On May 21, 2020, at 12:58 PM, Don Hiscock wrote: ?There are two suppliers of Evapo-Rust, due to some weird licensing I've never figured?out.? There's "real" Evapo-Rust in the silver-gray container from Harris International Labs, and there's "licensed" Evapo-Rust from Orison?Marketing. It may be arbitrary and non-technical, but I will only use silver-gray "real" Evapo-Rust now.? I think it works better.? Which?one are you referring to, Sujit? For those who don't know the stuff, here's some recent fun I had with?some old spark plugs left in a workbench drawer by the previous owners of my house twenty-plus years ago.? These plugs are older than that.? Before and after Evapo-Rust shown.https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-dZHgWFf/0/b8d9aad5/X5/i-dZHgWFf-X5.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-GRnjRNV/0/977f00be/X5/i-GRnjRNV-X5.jpg Here's the hose clamp from the original heater on my TR3B before and after Evapo-Rust.https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-JsZ3sbQ/0/fff5f613/X5/i-JsZ3sbQ-X5.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-ZJtx4z7/0/4d9f81b5/X5/i-ZJtx4z7-X5.jpg On Thu, May 21, 2020 at 12:39 PM Sujit Roy wrote: I like this and have been using?it for a few years now. but have noticed the new batch is a different?color, more clear, and appears more liquidy. It seems to wok?but seems to go black quicker. Anyone folks using this stuff noticed similar observations? Do I need to find something else? Sujit? -- Sujit Roy Cupertino, California https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs ?http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 41M8iEFdMGL.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 27516 bytes Desc: not available URL: From triumphstag at gmail.com Thu May 21 14:07:38 2020 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy) Date: Thu, 21 May 2020 13:07:38 -0700 Subject: [TR] Evapo-Rust has the formula changed? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I've always got it from Amazon and i just checked the gallon plastic can and it is the same. It mentions Harris International Lab. Definitely different to my old old. Sujit On Thu, May 21, 2020 at 10:54 AM Don Hiscock wrote: > There are two suppliers of Evapo-Rust, due to some weird licensing I've > never figured out. There's "real" Evapo-Rust in the silver-gray container > from Harris International Labs, and there's "licensed" Evapo-Rust from > Orison Marketing. > > It may be arbitrary and non-technical, but I will only use silver-gray > "real" Evapo-Rust now. I think it works better. Which one are you > referring to, Sujit? > > For those who don't know the stuff, here's some recent fun I had with some > old spark plugs left in a workbench drawer by the previous owners of my > house twenty-plus years ago. These plugs are older than that. Before and > after Evapo-Rust shown. > https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-dZHgWFf/0/b8d9aad5/X5/i-dZHgWFf-X5.jpg > https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-GRnjRNV/0/977f00be/X5/i-GRnjRNV-X5.jpg > > Here's the hose clamp from the original heater on my TR3B before and after > Evapo-Rust. > https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-JsZ3sbQ/0/fff5f613/X5/i-JsZ3sbQ-X5.jpg > https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-ZJtx4z7/0/4d9f81b5/X5/i-ZJtx4z7-X5.jpg > > > > On Thu, May 21, 2020 at 12:39 PM Sujit Roy wrote: > >> I like this and have been using it for a few years now. but have noticed >> the new batch is a different color, more clear, and appears more liquidy. >> It seems to wok but seems to go black quicker. >> >> Anyone folks using this stuff noticed similar observations? Do I need to >> find something else? >> >> Sujit >> >> -- >> Sujit Roy >> Cupertino, California >> >> https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs >> http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com >> > -- Sujit Roy Cupertino, California https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From don.hiscock at gmail.com Thu May 21 14:14:29 2020 From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Thu, 21 May 2020 15:14:29 -0500 Subject: [TR] Evapo-Rust has the formula changed? In-Reply-To: <675750955.2024773.1590091553619@mail.yahoo.com> References: <66D9ED3E-6237-4C3E-9204-48905E613DAC@yahoo.com> <675750955.2024773.1590091553619@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: That whole business of chelation seems like a red herring, Dave, to mask what's probably a pretty simple formulation. I can't see how chelation would convert rust. Now a chelating agent might very well be used in the formula to bind or isolate iron removed during the de-rusting process -- they list a chelating agent on their safety data sheet -- ,but a chemist wouldn't normally think of chelation and corrosion-reversal as the same thing. On Thu, May 21, 2020 at 3:05 PM DAVID MASSEY wrote: > I have been told that it is a chelate, an organic compound that bonds with > metal atoms. Some formulations are used heavy metal detoxification. I've > been told that it is non-toxic and you can drink it (I haven't tried). > I've also been told by one user that he pitches the used solution onto the > grass with no ill effects. > > I've used it with good results but as you say, it doesn't work fast. Over > time it will start turning your parts black which, I guess, is an > indication that it is time to replace it. > > Dave > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Don Hiscock > To: bill beecher > Cc: Triumphs > Sent: Thu, May 21, 2020 2:41 pm > Subject: Re: [TR] Evapo-Rust has the formula changed? > > That's the one I use all the time, Bill. I have some things in an > Evapo-Rust bath as we speak, in fact. Check online (Amazon, perhaps) -- > sometimes they have a 3.5-gallon pail with a parts basket strainer for a > good price. The stuff isn't cheap, unfortunately. About $10-15/gallon is > a decent price. > > Some people initially think Evapo-Rust is like naval jelly or one of the > many other phosphoric acid-based rust treatments, a brush-on/spray on > system. It's not. It's a dilute, gentle amber watery fluid in which parts > are immersed in for anywhere from hours to days. It works for a while > until it gets black and exhausted, whereupon it's pitched for fresh. The > black stuff, as best the chemist in me can guess, is reduced iron as the > oxide has electrons donated to it by Evapo-Rust converting it to elemental > iron or a sulfide. I'm guessing Evapo-Rust is a reducing agent, an > electron donor, not an acid like naval jelly, vinegar, muriatic acid, > citric acid or the other "etching" systems commonly used. (There's a > chance, I guess, that it's some sort of buffered acid. I don't think so, > but I need to beg/borrow/steal some analytical time from friends to see > what we can measure.) > > On Thu, May 21, 2020 at 2:07 PM bill beecher wrote: > > Is it this one, or the gel? > > > > Serenity Now...... > > On May 21, 2020, at 12:58 PM, Don Hiscock wrote: > > ? > There are two suppliers of Evapo-Rust, due to some weird licensing I've > never figured out. There's "real" Evapo-Rust in the silver-gray container > from Harris International Labs, and there's "licensed" Evapo-Rust from > Orison Marketing. > > It may be arbitrary and non-technical, but I will only use silver-gray > "real" Evapo-Rust now. I think it works better. Which one are you > referring to, Sujit? > > For those who don't know the stuff, here's some recent fun I had with some > old spark plugs left in a workbench drawer by the previous owners of my > house twenty-plus years ago. These plugs are older than that. Before and > after Evapo-Rust shown. > https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-dZHgWFf/0/b8d9aad5/X5/i-dZHgWFf-X5.jpg > https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-GRnjRNV/0/977f00be/X5/i-GRnjRNV-X5.jpg > > Here's the hose clamp from the original heater on my TR3B before and after > Evapo-Rust. > https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-JsZ3sbQ/0/fff5f613/X5/i-JsZ3sbQ-X5.jpg > https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-ZJtx4z7/0/4d9f81b5/X5/i-ZJtx4z7-X5.jpg > > > > On Thu, May 21, 2020 at 12:39 PM Sujit Roy wrote: > > I like this and have been using it for a few years now. but have noticed > the new batch is a different color, more clear, and appears more liquidy. > It seems to wok but seems to go black quicker. > > Anyone folks using this stuff noticed similar observations? Do I need to > find something else? > > Sujit > > -- > Sujit Roy > Cupertino, California > > https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 41M8iEFdMGL.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 27516 bytes Desc: not available URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Thu May 21 15:53:23 2020 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Thu, 21 May 2020 21:53:23 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Evapo-Rust has the formula changed? In-Reply-To: References: <66D9ED3E-6237-4C3E-9204-48905E613DAC@yahoo.com> <675750955.2024773.1590091553619@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <29835345.2076722.1590098003486@mail.yahoo.com> I'm no chemist (electrical engineer, actually) but could it be that it is easier to strip an iron atom from an oxide than it is to strip one from another iron atom.? Or, maybe it etches the solid iron as well but since it is higher density the reduction is less noticeable. But I don't need to know how it works.? I just use it. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Don Hiscock To: DAVID MASSEY Cc: notakitcar at yahoo.com ; Triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, May 21, 2020 3:14 pm Subject: Re: [TR] Evapo-Rust has the formula changed? That whole business of chelation seems like a red herring, Dave, to mask what's probably a pretty simple formulation.? I can't see how chelation would convert rust.? Now a chelating agent might very well be used in the formula to bind or isolate iron removed during the de-rusting process -- they list a chelating agent on their?safety data sheet -- ,but a chemist wouldn't normally think of chelation and corrosion-reversal as the same thing. On Thu, May 21, 2020 at 3:05 PM DAVID MASSEY wrote: I have been told that it is a chelate, an organic compound that bonds with metal atoms.? Some formulations are used heavy metal detoxification.? I've been told that it is non-toxic and you can drink it (I haven't tried).? I've also been told by one user that he pitches the used solution onto the grass with no ill effects. I've used it with good results but as you say, it doesn't work fast.? Over time it will start turning your parts black which, I guess, is an indication that it is time to replace it.? Dave -----Original Message----- From: Don Hiscock To: bill beecher Cc: Triumphs Sent: Thu, May 21, 2020 2:41 pm Subject: Re: [TR] Evapo-Rust has the formula changed? That's the?one I use all the time, Bill.? I have some things in an Evapo-Rust bath as we speak, in fact.? Check online (Amazon, perhaps) -- sometimes they have a 3.5-gallon pail with a parts basket strainer for a good price.? The stuff isn't cheap, unfortunately.? About $10-15/gallon is a decent price. Some people initially?think Evapo-Rust is like naval jelly or one of the many other phosphoric acid-based rust treatments, a brush-on/spray on system.? It's not.? It's a dilute, gentle amber watery fluid in which?parts are immersed in for anywhere from hours to days.? It works for a while until it gets black and exhausted, whereupon it's pitched for fresh.? The black stuff, as best the chemist in me can guess, is reduced iron as the oxide has electrons donated to it by Evapo-Rust converting it to elemental iron or a sulfide.? I'm guessing Evapo-Rust is a reducing agent, an electron donor, not an acid like naval jelly, vinegar, muriatic acid, citric acid or the other "etching" systems commonly used.? (There's a chance, I guess, that it's some sort of buffered acid.? I don't think?so, but I need to beg/borrow/steal some analytical time from friends to see what we can measure.) On Thu, May 21, 2020 at 2:07 PM bill beecher wrote: Is it this one, or the gel? Serenity Now...... On May 21, 2020, at 12:58 PM, Don Hiscock wrote: ?There are two suppliers of Evapo-Rust, due to some weird licensing I've never figured?out.? There's "real" Evapo-Rust in the silver-gray container from Harris International Labs, and there's "licensed" Evapo-Rust from Orison?Marketing. It may be arbitrary and non-technical, but I will only use silver-gray "real" Evapo-Rust now.? I think it works better.? Which?one are you referring to, Sujit? For those who don't know the stuff, here's some recent fun I had with?some old spark plugs left in a workbench drawer by the previous owners of my house twenty-plus years ago.? These plugs are older than that.? Before and after Evapo-Rust shown.https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-dZHgWFf/0/b8d9aad5/X5/i-dZHgWFf-X5.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-GRnjRNV/0/977f00be/X5/i-GRnjRNV-X5.jpg Here's the hose clamp from the original heater on my TR3B before and after Evapo-Rust.https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-JsZ3sbQ/0/fff5f613/X5/i-JsZ3sbQ-X5.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-ZJtx4z7/0/4d9f81b5/X5/i-ZJtx4z7-X5.jpg On Thu, May 21, 2020 at 12:39 PM Sujit Roy wrote: I like this and have been using?it for a few years now. but have noticed the new batch is a different?color, more clear, and appears more liquidy. It seems to wok?but seems to go black quicker. Anyone folks using this stuff noticed similar observations? Do I need to find something else? Sujit? -- Sujit Roy Cupertino, California https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs ?http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 41M8iEFdMGL.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 27516 bytes Desc: not available URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Thu May 21 16:00:22 2020 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Thu, 21 May 2020 22:00:22 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Evapo-Rust has the formula changed? In-Reply-To: References: <66D9ED3E-6237-4C3E-9204-48905E613DAC@yahoo.com> <675750955.2024773.1590091553619@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <783644500.2081344.1590098422530@mail.yahoo.com> Yep.? I've used similar products.? Naval Jelly was my best friend on my first British car.? A chemist friend of mine says it converts iron oxide to iron phosphate.? Works well. But it is caustic and leaves a residue.? But it is also a lot faster than Evapo-rust.? No need to limit yourself to one tool. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Steve Kirby To: Don Hiscock ; DAVID MASSEY Cc: Triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, May 21, 2020 3:59 pm Subject: RE: [TR] Evapo-Rust has the formula changed? #yiv5420979803 #yiv5420979803 -- _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv5420979803 #yiv5420979803 p.yiv5420979803MsoNormal, #yiv5420979803 li.yiv5420979803MsoNormal, #yiv5420979803 div.yiv5420979803MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv5420979803 a:link, #yiv5420979803 span.yiv5420979803MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv5420979803 span.yiv5420979803EmailStyle19 {font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv5420979803 .yiv5420979803MsoChpDefault {font-family:sans-serif;} _filtered {}#yiv5420979803 div.yiv5420979803WordSection1 {}#yiv5420979803 Home Depot sells a metal prep solution that does a great job of removing rust and leaving a paintable surface.? It?s basically phosphoric acid which is widely used as a metal etch to promote adhesion of paint, in rubber/metal bonding, etc. ? Works as well as much more expensive ?designer? chemicals and cost less that $20 a gallon.? To dissolve rust, immerse the part in full strength solution.? For paint prep you can dilute it.? Can be reused. ? ? Steve Kirby President China Auto Group 22831 Avenida Empresa Rancho Santa Margarita, CA 92688 USA Direct:? (949) 261-8208 Fax:? (949) 767-5949 Cell:? (949) 903-0957 Skype: steve.kirby29 www.chinaautogroup.com ? From: Triumphs On Behalf OfDon Hiscock Sent: Thursday, May 21, 2020 1:14 PM To: DAVID MASSEY Cc: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Evapo-Rust has the formula changed? ? That whole business of chelation seems like a red herring, Dave, to mask what's probably a pretty simple formulation.? I can't see how chelation would convert rust.? Now a chelating agent might very well be used in the formula to bind or isolate iron removed during the de-rusting process -- they list a chelating agent on their?safety data sheet -- ,but a chemist wouldn't normally think of chelation and corrosion-reversal as the same thing. ? On Thu, May 21, 2020 at 3:05 PM DAVID MASSEY wrote: I have been told that it is a chelate, an organic compound that bonds with metal atoms.? Some formulations are used heavy metal detoxification.? I've been told that it is non-toxic and you can drink it (I haven't tried).? I've also been told by one user that he pitches the used solution onto the grass with no ill effects. ? I've used it with good results but as you say, it doesn't work fast.? Over time it will start turning your parts black which, I guess, is an indication that it is time to replace it.? ? Dave ? ? -----Original Message----- From: Don Hiscock To: bill beecher Cc: Triumphs Sent: Thu, May 21, 2020 2:41 pm Subject: Re: [TR] Evapo-Rust has the formula changed? That's the?one I use all the time, Bill.? I have some things in an Evapo-Rust bath as we speak, in fact.? Check online (Amazon, perhaps) -- sometimes they have a 3.5-gallon pail with a parts basket strainer for a good price.? The stuff isn't cheap, unfortunately.? About $10-15/gallon is a decent price. ? Some people initially?think Evapo-Rust is like naval jelly or one of the many other phosphoric acid-based rust treatments, a brush-on/spray on system.? It's not.? It's a dilute, gentle amber watery fluid in which?parts are immersed in for anywhere from hours to days.? It works for a while until it gets black and exhausted, whereupon it's pitched for fresh.? The black stuff, as best the chemist in me can guess, is reduced iron as the oxide has electrons donated to it by Evapo-Rust converting it to elemental iron or a sulfide.? I'm guessing Evapo-Rust is a reducing agent, an electron donor, not an acid like naval jelly, vinegar, muriatic acid, citric acid or the other "etching" systems commonly used.? (There's a chance, I guess, that it's some sort of buffered acid.? I don't think?so, but I need to beg/borrow/steal some analytical time from friends to see what we can measure.) ? On Thu, May 21, 2020 at 2:07 PM bill beecher wrote: Is it this one, or the gel? ? Serenity Now...... On May 21, 2020, at 12:58 PM, Don Hiscock wrote: ? There are two suppliers of Evapo-Rust, due to some weird licensing I've never figured?out.? There's "real" Evapo-Rust in the silver-gray container from Harris International Labs, and there's "licensed" Evapo-Rust from Orison?Marketing. ? It may be arbitrary and non-technical, but I will only use silver-gray "real" Evapo-Rust now.? I think it works better.? Which?one are you referring to, Sujit? ? For those who don't know the stuff, here's some recent fun I had with?some old spark plugs left in a workbench drawer by the previous owners of my house twenty-plus years ago.? These plugs are older than that.? Before and after Evapo-Rust shown. https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-dZHgWFf/0/b8d9aad5/X5/i-dZHgWFf-X5.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-GRnjRNV/0/977f00be/X5/i-GRnjRNV-X5.jpg ? Here's the hose clamp from the original heater on my TR3B before and after Evapo-Rust. https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-JsZ3sbQ/0/fff5f613/X5/i-JsZ3sbQ-X5.jpg https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-ZJtx4z7/0/4d9f81b5/X5/i-ZJtx4z7-X5.jpg ? ? ? On Thu, May 21, 2020 at 12:39 PM Sujit Roy wrote: I like this and have been using?it for a few years now. but have noticed the new batch is a different?color, more clear, and appears more liquidy. It seems to wok?but seems to go black quicker. ? Anyone folks using this stuff noticed similar observations? Do I need to find something else? ? Sujit? ? -- Sujit Roy Cupertino, California https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ **triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs?http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com **triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs ?http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com **triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphshttp://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com ? ? ??? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 15697 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 27516 bytes Desc: not available URL: From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca Fri May 22 07:35:02 2020 From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (Art McEwen) Date: Fri, 22 May 2020 09:35:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] Tr3a steering tight after rebuild In-Reply-To: <72d0af4f1195f7.5ec7d4d8@cgocable.ca> References: <004501d62c80$570f60f0$052e22d0$@uprichard.net> <72c0b743118b0c.5ec7d36e@cgocable.ca> <71b0d75711d5ae.5ec7d3aa@cgocable.ca> <72d0809d11cbda.5ec7d423@cgocable.ca> <71b0d107118e5d.5ec7d45f@cgocable.ca> <7270ed08119f7b.5ec7d49c@cgocable.ca> <72d0af4f1195f7.5ec7d4d8@cgocable.ca> Message-ID: <71b0af4b11ffb8.5ec79cc6@cgocable.ca> Further update.? So I think what happened is my final torque down of the end cap on the steering box was tighter than my shim bench tests or something settled during that and caused binding. When I took it all off and reset everything with a McGiver'd way of measuring the float it all seemed good on 2nd install. The new bushings/felt in the upper shaft added some stiffness too. BTW some claim this can be done without removing the cowl (and therefore presumably the rad), I'd pay good money to see that on youtube.... On 05/17/20, andrew uprichard wrote: > (Where is Randall when you need him? ?) > > When you say "significantly tighter" is this turning the steering with the tie rods connected ? You should be able to turn the steering wheel with a finger tip if the car is in the air. You should also be able to grab a wheel and take it through its full range of motion (everything connected) fairly easily. > > The felt at the steering wheel should not be an issue - and, if anything, should just be soaked in oil prior to installation. > > If it is binding, and not eased by loosening the box (and, by inference, the pressure on the peg) it is probably related more to the shims at the bottom of the box than the bearings themselves. Did you follow the method Randall suggests with measuring end-float and shimming appropriately? > > Andrew Uprichard > Jackson, Michigan > > -----Original Message----- > From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Art McEwen > Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2020 2:11 PM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] Tr3a steering tight after rebuild > > Re-installed my rebuilt steering box and, even though it felt fine on the bench, back in the car the steering is significantly tighter. Not quite a parking lot 3-point turn level of effort but well beyond finger tip effort. And this is while still up on jacks with the set screw backed right off. I loosened off the shim cover bolts thinking I was too tight but no difference. It doesn't feel like it's binding at any point of the travel, it's tight lock to lock. I waited until the shaft was reassembled before tightening the box attachment bolts so the box would align to the shaft, not vice versa. > > Could this really all be down to resistance from the 2 new bearings in the split shaft (plenty of grease added) and the new felt at the steering wheel? > > Also should the upper felt be greased/oiled? > > Thanks, > > Art. 60tr > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From auprichard at uprichard.net Fri May 22 16:32:15 2020 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (andrew uprichard) Date: Fri, 22 May 2020 18:32:15 -0400 Subject: [TR] Tr3a steering tight after rebuild In-Reply-To: <71b0af4b11ffb8.5ec79cc6@cgocable.ca> References: <004501d62c80$570f60f0$052e22d0$@uprichard.net> <72c0b743118b0c.5ec7d36e@cgocable.ca> <71b0d75711d5ae.5ec7d3aa@cgocable.ca> <72d0809d11cbda.5ec7d423@cgocable.ca> <71b0d107118e5d.5ec7d45f@cgocable.ca> <7270ed08119f7b.5ec7d49c@cgocable.ca> <72d0af4f1195f7.5ec7d4d8@cgocable.ca> <71b0af4b11ffb8.5ec79cc6@cgocable.ca> Message-ID: <009801d63088$d8fe5380$8afafa80$@uprichard.net> Ask David Friedlander if it can be done without removing the front apron. I think he has just spent several days lying under his TR3 trying to get his steering right. Andrew Uprichard From: Art McEwen Sent: Friday, May 22, 2020 9:35 AM To: andrew uprichard ; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [TR] Tr3a steering tight after rebuild Further update. So I think what happened is my final torque down of the end cap on the steering box was tighter than my shim bench tests or something settled during that and caused binding. When I took it all off and reset everything with a McGiver'd way of measuring the float it all seemed good on 2nd install. The new bushings/felt in the upper shaft added some stiffness too. BTW some claim this can be done without removing the cowl (and therefore presumably the rad), I'd pay good money to see that on youtube.... On 05/17/20, andrew uprichard > wrote: (Where is Randall when you need him? ?) When you say "significantly tighter" is this turning the steering with the tie rods connected ? You should be able to turn the steering wheel with a finger tip if the car is in the air. You should also be able to grab a wheel and take it through its full range of motion (everything connected) fairly easily. The felt at the steering wheel should not be an issue - and, if anything, should just be soaked in oil prior to installation. If it is binding, and not eased by loosening the box (and, by inference, the pressure on the peg) it is probably related more to the shims at the bottom of the box than the bearings themselves. Did you follow the method Randall suggests with measuring end-float and shimming appropriately? Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan -----Original Message----- From: Triumphs > On Behalf Of Art McEwen Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2020 2:11 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Tr3a steering tight after rebuild Re-installed my rebuilt steering box and, even though it felt fine on the bench, back in the car the steering is significantly tighter. Not quite a parking lot 3-point turn level of effort but well beyond finger tip effort. And this is while still up on jacks with the set screw backed right off. I loosened off the shim cover bolts thinking I was too tight but no difference. It doesn't feel like it's binding at any point of the travel, it's tight lock to lock. I waited until the shaft was reassembled before tightening the box attachment bolts so the box would align to the shaft, not vice versa. Could this really all be down to resistance from the 2 new bearings in the split shaft (plenty of grease added) and the new felt at the steering wheel? Also should the upper felt be greased/oiled? Thanks, Art. 60tr ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca Fri May 22 17:00:35 2020 From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (Art McEwen) Date: Fri, 22 May 2020 19:00:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] Tr3a steering tight after rebuild In-Reply-To: <009801d63088$d8fe5380$8afafa80$@uprichard.net> References: <004501d62c80$570f60f0$052e22d0$@uprichard.net> <72c0b743118b0c.5ec7d36e@cgocable.ca> <71b0d75711d5ae.5ec7d3aa@cgocable.ca> <72d0809d11cbda.5ec7d423@cgocable.ca> <71b0d107118e5d.5ec7d45f@cgocable.ca> <7270ed08119f7b.5ec7d49c@cgocable.ca> <72d0af4f1195f7.5ec7d4d8@cgocable.ca> <71b0af4b11ffb8.5ec79cc6@cgocable.ca> <009801d63088$d8fe5380$8afafa80$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: I've almost got him convinced to take it off :) > On May 22, 2020, at 6:32 PM, andrew uprichard wrote: > > Ask David Friedlander if it can be done without removing the front apron. I think he has just spent several days lying under his TR3 trying to get his steering right. > > Andrew Uprichard > > From: Art McEwen > Sent: Friday, May 22, 2020 9:35 AM > To: andrew uprichard ; triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: RE: [TR] Tr3a steering tight after rebuild > > Further update. > > So I think what happened is my final torque down of the end cap on the steering box was tighter than my shim bench tests or something settled during that and caused binding. When I took it all off and reset everything with a McGiver'd way of measuring the float it all seemed good on 2nd install. The new bushings/felt in the upper shaft added some stiffness too. > > BTW some claim this can be done without removing the cowl (and therefore presumably the rad), I'd pay good money to see that on youtube.... > > On 05/17/20, andrew uprichard wrote: > (Where is Randall when you need him? ?) > > When you say "significantly tighter" is this turning the steering with the tie rods connected ? You should be able to turn the steering wheel with a finger tip if the car is in the air. You should also be able to grab a wheel and take it through its full range of motion (everything connected) fairly easily. > > The felt at the steering wheel should not be an issue - and, if anything, should just be soaked in oil prior to installation. > > If it is binding, and not eased by loosening the box (and, by inference, the pressure on the peg) it is probably related more to the shims at the bottom of the box than the bearings themselves. Did you follow the method Randall suggests with measuring end-float and shimming appropriately? > > Andrew Uprichard > Jackson, Michigan > > -----Original Message----- > From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Art McEwen > Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2020 2:11 PM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] Tr3a steering tight after rebuild > > Re-installed my rebuilt steering box and, even though it felt fine on the bench, back in the car the steering is significantly tighter. Not quite a parking lot 3-point turn level of effort but well beyond finger tip effort. And this is while still up on jacks with the set screw backed right off. I loosened off the shim cover bolts thinking I was too tight but no difference. It doesn't feel like it's binding at any point of the travel, it's tight lock to lock. I waited until the shaft was reassembled before tightening the box attachment bolts so the box would align to the shaft, not vice versa. > > Could this really all be down to resistance from the 2 new bearings in the split shaft (plenty of grease added) and the new felt at the steering wheel? > > Also should the upper felt be greased/oiled? > > Thanks, > > Art. 60tr > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From notakitcar at yahoo.com Fri May 22 19:14:37 2020 From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher) Date: Fri, 22 May 2020 20:14:37 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Pistons References: Message-ID: Is it just me or shouldn?t all the pistons be the same brand? #1&4 have ? Serenity Now...... From notakitcar at yahoo.com Fri May 22 19:21:40 2020 From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher) Date: Fri, 22 May 2020 20:21:40 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Pistons References: Message-ID: <33F90F89-F321-40A9-AA53-EFF9DF760E64@yahoo.com> Let?s try this again: ?Is it just me or shouldn?t all the pistons be the same brand? #1&4 have ?AB 8(could be a B) 413? #2&3 have ?PD 140 RENZ? Looking for a vibration, maybe I found it? Thx, Bill B TS75131E Serenity Now...... From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Fri May 22 19:36:04 2020 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Fri, 22 May 2020 18:36:04 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Pistons In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Seems like they would be your best chance at balance right out of the box. On Fri, May 22, 2020 at 6:20 PM bill beecher wrote: > Is it just me or shouldn?t all the pistons be the same brand? > > #1&4 have ? > > Serenity Now...... > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From forzion7 at gmail.com Fri May 22 19:50:19 2020 From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander) Date: Fri, 22 May 2020 21:50:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] Tr3a steering tight after rebuild In-Reply-To: References: <004501d62c80$570f60f0$052e22d0$@uprichard.net> <72c0b743118b0c.5ec7d36e@cgocable.ca> <71b0d75711d5ae.5ec7d3aa@cgocable.ca> <72d0809d11cbda.5ec7d423@cgocable.ca> <71b0d107118e5d.5ec7d45f@cgocable.ca> <7270ed08119f7b.5ec7d49c@cgocable.ca> <72d0af4f1195f7.5ec7d4d8@cgocable.ca> <71b0af4b11ffb8.5ec79cc6@cgocable.ca> <009801d63088$d8fe5380$8afafa80$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: Andrew ~ Art tells me he can remove the apron of his car in 30 minutes! That's some mighty fast wrenching!! Dave On Fri, May 22, 2020, 7:00 PM Art McEwen wrote: > I've almost got him convinced to take it off :) > > On May 22, 2020, at 6:32 PM, andrew uprichard > wrote: > > Ask David Friedlander if it can be done without removing the front > apron. I think he has just spent several days lying under his TR3 trying > to get his steering right. > > > > Andrew Uprichard > > > > *From:* Art McEwen > *Sent:* Friday, May 22, 2020 9:35 AM > *To:* andrew uprichard ; triumphs at autox.team.net > *Subject:* RE: [TR] Tr3a steering tight after rebuild > > > > Further update. > > > > So I think what happened is my final torque down of the end cap on the > steering box was tighter than my shim bench tests or something settled > during that and caused binding. When I took it all off and reset > everything with a McGiver'd way of measuring the float it all seemed good > on 2nd install. The new bushings/felt in the upper shaft added some > stiffness too. > > > > BTW some claim this can be done without removing the cowl (and therefore > presumably the rad), I'd pay good money to see that on youtube.... > > On 05/17/20, *andrew uprichard * wrote: > > (Where is Randall when you need him? ?) > > When you say "significantly tighter" is this turning the steering with the > tie rods connected ? You should be able to turn the steering wheel with a > finger tip if the car is in the air. You should also be able to grab a > wheel and take it through its full range of motion (everything connected) > fairly easily. > > The felt at the steering wheel should not be an issue - and, if anything, > should just be soaked in oil prior to installation. > > If it is binding, and not eased by loosening the box (and, by inference, > the pressure on the peg) it is probably related more to the shims at the > bottom of the box than the bearings themselves. Did you follow the method > Randall suggests with measuring end-float and shimming appropriately? > > Andrew Uprichard > Jackson, Michigan > > -----Original Message----- > From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Art McEwen > Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2020 2:11 PM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] Tr3a steering tight after rebuild > > Re-installed my rebuilt steering box and, even though it felt fine on the > bench, back in the car the steering is significantly tighter. Not quite a > parking lot 3-point turn level of effort but well beyond finger tip > effort. And this is while still up on jacks with the set screw backed > right off. I loosened off the shim cover bolts thinking I was too tight > but no difference. It doesn't feel like it's binding at any point of the > travel, it's tight lock to lock. I waited until the shaft was reassembled > before tightening the box attachment bolts so the box would align to the > shaft, not vice versa. > > Could this really all be down to resistance from the 2 new bearings in the > split shaft (plenty of grease added) and the new felt at the steering > wheel? > > Also should the upper felt be greased/oiled? > > Thanks, > > Art. 60tr > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca Fri May 22 20:50:16 2020 From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (Art McEwen) Date: Fri, 22 May 2020 22:50:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] Tr3a steering tight after rebuild In-Reply-To: References: <004501d62c80$570f60f0$052e22d0$@uprichard.net> <72c0b743118b0c.5ec7d36e@cgocable.ca> <71b0d75711d5ae.5ec7d3aa@cgocable.ca> <72d0809d11cbda.5ec7d423@cgocable.ca> <71b0d107118e5d.5ec7d45f@cgocable.ca> <7270ed08119f7b.5ec7d49c@cgocable.ca> <72d0af4f1195f7.5ec7d4d8@cgocable.ca> <71b0af4b11ffb8.5ec79cc6@cgocable.ca> <009801d63088$d8fe5380$8afafa80$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: Dave, I'll do your apron, you rewire my steering shaft :) > On May 22, 2020, at 9:50 PM, David Friedlander wrote: > > Andrew ~ > > Art tells me he can remove the apron of his car in 30 minutes! That's some mighty fast wrenching!! > > Dave > >> On Fri, May 22, 2020, 7:00 PM Art McEwen wrote: >> I've almost got him convinced to take it off :) >> >>> On May 22, 2020, at 6:32 PM, andrew uprichard wrote: >>> >>> Ask David Friedlander if it can be done without removing the front apron. I think he has just spent several days lying under his TR3 trying to get his steering right. >>> >>> >>> >>> Andrew Uprichard >>> >>> >>> >>> From: Art McEwen >>> Sent: Friday, May 22, 2020 9:35 AM >>> To: andrew uprichard ; triumphs at autox.team.net >>> Subject: RE: [TR] Tr3a steering tight after rebuild >>> >>> >>> >>> Further update. >>> >>> >>> >>> So I think what happened is my final torque down of the end cap on the steering box was tighter than my shim bench tests or something settled during that and caused binding. When I took it all off and reset everything with a McGiver'd way of measuring the float it all seemed good on 2nd install. The new bushings/felt in the upper shaft added some stiffness too. >>> >>> >>> >>> BTW some claim this can be done without removing the cowl (and therefore presumably the rad), I'd pay good money to see that on youtube.... >>> >>> On 05/17/20, andrew uprichard wrote: >>> >>> (Where is Randall when you need him? ?) >>> >>> When you say "significantly tighter" is this turning the steering with the tie rods connected ? You should be able to turn the steering wheel with a finger tip if the car is in the air. You should also be able to grab a wheel and take it through its full range of motion (everything connected) fairly easily. >>> >>> The felt at the steering wheel should not be an issue - and, if anything, should just be soaked in oil prior to installation. >>> >>> If it is binding, and not eased by loosening the box (and, by inference, the pressure on the peg) it is probably related more to the shims at the bottom of the box than the bearings themselves. Did you follow the method Randall suggests with measuring end-float and shimming appropriately? >>> >>> Andrew Uprichard >>> Jackson, Michigan >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Art McEwen >>> Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2020 2:11 PM >>> To: triumphs at autox.team.net >>> Subject: [TR] Tr3a steering tight after rebuild >>> >>> Re-installed my rebuilt steering box and, even though it felt fine on the bench, back in the car the steering is significantly tighter. Not quite a parking lot 3-point turn level of effort but well beyond finger tip effort. And this is while still up on jacks with the set screw backed right off. I loosened off the shim cover bolts thinking I was too tight but no difference. It doesn't feel like it's binding at any point of the travel, it's tight lock to lock. I waited until the shaft was reassembled before tightening the box attachment bolts so the box would align to the shaft, not vice versa. >>> >>> Could this really all be down to resistance from the 2 new bearings in the split shaft (plenty of grease added) and the new felt at the steering wheel? >>> >>> Also should the upper felt be greased/oiled? >>> >>> Thanks, >>> >>> Art. 60tr >>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dlhogye at comcast.net Fri May 22 21:43:01 2020 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE) Date: Fri, 22 May 2020 20:43:01 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 Pistons In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <960532920.12176.1590205382214@connect.xfinity.com> Having the same pistons in the same engine at the same time is surely the preferred method by anyone who might know the difference and or gives a damn. However, I'm sure it's possible to keep a TR engine running with different combinations of just about any part that would fit. Even different size pistons, of course with their matching liners, would still make an engine run and propel the car down the road. For how long and at what speeds or level of performance is another story. The end result is up to you and depend on your requirements. Dave H. > On May 22, 2020 at 6:36 PM Geo Hahn wrote: > > Seems like they would be your best chance at balance right out of the box. > > On Fri, May 22, 2020 at 6:20 PM bill beecher < notakitcar at yahoo.com mailto:notakitcar at yahoo.com > wrote: > > > > Is it just me or shouldn?t all the pistons be the same brand? > > > > #1&4 have ? > > > > Serenity Now...... > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com > > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From grglmn at gmail.com Fri May 22 22:16:13 2020 From: grglmn at gmail.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Fri, 22 May 2020 23:16:13 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Pistons In-Reply-To: <960532920.12176.1590205382214@connect.xfinity.com> References: <960532920.12176.1590205382214@connect.xfinity.com> Message-ID: My first engine rebuild, I was trying to get my car ready to go to the vintage races at Elkhart Lake in 1988 or so. I had ordered a set of 87mm pistons and liners from Victoria British, for whatever reason they sent me 3 instead of four. They were Mahle pistons, so that was kind of cool. Anyway, I was running out of time and I had never been to vintage races (a much more rare event back then). So young and can't wait mentality I took an old piston and liner to my local machine shop to see if I could get away with a hone and rings. I explained what I wanted to do and he said something about out of balance and made a blown up sort of gesture and sound. Point taken, didn't do it. I ended up getting the extra piston and liner in time to get the engine back together for the races, but another problem kept me from getting there until the next year. Greg Lemon TR250 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Sat May 23 06:33:10 2020 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Sat, 23 May 2020 12:33:10 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3 Pistons In-Reply-To: <960532920.12176.1590205382214@connect.xfinity.com> References: <960532920.12176.1590205382214@connect.xfinity.com> Message-ID: <1816404426.234018.1590237190518@mail.yahoo.com> Indeed.? When I was in college I drove an MGB.? (there.? I said it.? Now you know.)? At one point I decided to rebuild the engine.? Now, at some point during production they changed from a long skirt piston to a short skirt piston.? My engine had two of each.? I drove it that way for quite a few years and who knows how long it had been that way before I got it. I'm sure it contributed to the roughness of the engine but it ran just the same. Dave -----Original Message----- From: DAVE HOGYE To: Geo Hahn ; bill beecher Cc: Dave Ranteer Sent: Fri, May 22, 2020 10:43 pm Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Pistons Having the same pistons in the same engine at the same time is surely the preferred method by anyone who might know the difference and or gives a damn.? However, I'm sure it's possible to keep a TR engine running with different combinations of just about any part that would fit.? Even different size pistons, of course with their matching liners, would still make an engine run and propel the car down the road.? For how long and at what speeds or level of performance is another story.? The end result is up to you and depend on your requirements.? Dave H.?? On May 22, 2020 at 6:36 PM Geo Hahn wrote: Seems like they would be your best chance at balance right out of the box. On Fri, May 22, 2020 at 6:20 PM bill beecher < notakitcar at yahoo.com> wrote: Is it just me or shouldn?t all the pistons be the same brand? #1&4 have ? Serenity Now...... ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye at comcast.net ? ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kinderlehrer at comcast.net Sat May 23 10:01:40 2020 From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer) Date: Sat, 23 May 2020 09:01:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] Tr3a steering tight after rebuild In-Reply-To: References: <004501d62c80$570f60f0$052e22d0$@uprichard.net> <72c0b743118b0c.5ec7d36e@cgocable.ca> <71b0d75711d5ae.5ec7d3aa@cgocable.ca> <72d0809d11cbda.5ec7d423@cgocable.ca> <71b0d107118e5d.5ec7d45f@cgocable.ca> <7270ed08119f7b.5ec7d49c@cgocable.ca> <72d0af4f1195f7.5ec7d4d8@cgocable.ca> <71b0af4b11ffb8.5ec79cc6@cgocable.ca> <009801d63088$d8fe5380$8afafa80$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <000601d6311b$730f9f50$592eddf0$@net> I think I remember Randal?s post saying that you can remove the column without removing the cowl if it?s the split type (2 piece) but you have to loosen the motor mounts and jack the engine up a bit to do it. There may have been more to it, but that?s all I remember. Bob From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Art McEwen Sent: Friday, May 22, 2020 7:50 PM To: David Friedlander Cc: TR3 Triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] Tr3a steering tight after rebuild Dave, I'll do your apron, you rewire my steering shaft :) On May 22, 2020, at 9:50 PM, David Friedlander wrote: Andrew ~ Art tells me he can remove the apron of his car in 30 minutes! That's some mighty fast wrenching!! Dave On Fri, May 22, 2020, 7:00 PM Art McEwen wrote: I've almost got him convinced to take it off :) On May 22, 2020, at 6:32 PM, andrew uprichard wrote: Ask David Friedlander if it can be done without removing the front apron. I think he has just spent several days lying under his TR3 trying to get his steering right. Andrew Uprichard From: Art McEwen Sent: Friday, May 22, 2020 9:35 AM To: andrew uprichard ; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [TR] Tr3a steering tight after rebuild Further update. So I think what happened is my final torque down of the end cap on the steering box was tighter than my shim bench tests or something settled during that and caused binding. When I took it all off and reset everything with a McGiver'd way of measuring the float it all seemed good on 2nd install. The new bushings/felt in the upper shaft added some stiffness too. BTW some claim this can be done without removing the cowl (and therefore presumably the rad), I'd pay good money to see that on youtube.... On 05/17/20, andrew uprichard wrote: (Where is Randall when you need him? ?) When you say "significantly tighter" is this turning the steering with the tie rods connected ? You should be able to turn the steering wheel with a finger tip if the car is in the air. You should also be able to grab a wheel and take it through its full range of motion (everything connected) fairly easily. The felt at the steering wheel should not be an issue - and, if anything, should just be soaked in oil prior to installation. If it is binding, and not eased by loosening the box (and, by inference, the pressure on the peg) it is probably related more to the shims at the bottom of the box than the bearings themselves. Did you follow the method Randall suggests with measuring end-float and shimming appropriately? Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan -----Original Message----- From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Art McEwen Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2020 2:11 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Tr3a steering tight after rebuild Re-installed my rebuilt steering box and, even though it felt fine on the bench, back in the car the steering is significantly tighter. Not quite a parking lot 3-point turn level of effort but well beyond finger tip effort. And this is while still up on jacks with the set screw backed right off. I loosened off the shim cover bolts thinking I was too tight but no difference. It doesn't feel like it's binding at any point of the travel, it's tight lock to lock. I waited until the shaft was reassembled before tightening the box attachment bolts so the box would align to the shaft, not vice versa. Could this really all be down to resistance from the 2 new bearings in the split shaft (plenty of grease added) and the new felt at the steering wheel? Also should the upper felt be greased/oiled? Thanks, Art. 60tr ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From notakitcar at yahoo.com Sat May 23 11:12:01 2020 From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher) Date: Sat, 23 May 2020 12:12:01 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Pistons (Update) In-Reply-To: <1816404426.234018.1590237190518@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1816404426.234018.1590237190518@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Using the most-up to-date technology available, to me, my Stamps.Com postal scale. I find that #1&4 are 55grams heavier at 1.697kg, than #2&3 at 1.640&47kg. So the weight variance follows to brand difference. They all look the same, flat top and full skirt. Now off till next week to a machine shop with better scales and the ability to fix it. Will be taking the crank and flywheel as well for balance checking. Thanks to all who responded. Best, Bill B Serenity Now...... On May 23, 2020, at 7:33 AM, DAVID MASSEY wrote: ? Indeed. When I was in college I drove an MGB. (there. I said it. Now you know.) At one point I decided to rebuild the engine. Now, at some point during production they changed from a long skirt piston to a short skirt piston. My engine had two of each. I drove it that way for quite a few years and who knows how long it had been that way before I got it. I'm sure it contributed to the roughness of the engine but it ran just the same. Dave -----Original Message----- From: DAVE HOGYE To: Geo Hahn ; bill beecher Cc: Dave Ranteer Sent: Fri, May 22, 2020 10:43 pm Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Pistons Having the same pistons in the same engine at the same time is surely the preferred method by anyone who might know the difference and or gives a damn. However, I'm sure it's possible to keep a TR engine running with different combinations of just about any part that would fit. Even different size pistons, of course with their matching liners, would still make an engine run and propel the car down the road. For how long and at what speeds or level of performance is another story. The end result is up to you and depend on your requirements. Dave H. > On May 22, 2020 at 6:36 PM Geo Hahn wrote: > > Seems like they would be your best chance at balance right out of the box. > > On Fri, May 22, 2020 at 6:20 PM bill beecher < notakitcar at yahoo.com> wrote: > Is it just me or shouldn?t all the pistons be the same brand? > > #1&4 have ? > > Serenity Now...... > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye at comcast.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From notakitcar at yahoo.com Sat May 23 11:12:01 2020 From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher) Date: Sat, 23 May 2020 12:12:01 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Pistons (Update) In-Reply-To: <1816404426.234018.1590237190518@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1816404426.234018.1590237190518@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Using the most-up to-date technology available, to me, my Stamps.Com postal scale. I find that #1&4 are 55grams heavier at 1.697kg, than #2&3 at 1.640&47kg. So the weight variance follows to brand difference. They all look the same, flat top and full skirt. Now off till next week to a machine shop with better scales and the ability to fix it. Will be taking the crank and flywheel as well for balance checking. Thanks to all who responded. Best, Bill B Serenity Now...... On May 23, 2020, at 7:33 AM, DAVID MASSEY wrote: ? Indeed. When I was in college I drove an MGB. (there. I said it. Now you know.) At one point I decided to rebuild the engine. Now, at some point during production they changed from a long skirt piston to a short skirt piston. My engine had two of each. I drove it that way for quite a few years and who knows how long it had been that way before I got it. I'm sure it contributed to the roughness of the engine but it ran just the same. Dave -----Original Message----- From: DAVE HOGYE To: Geo Hahn ; bill beecher Cc: Dave Ranteer Sent: Fri, May 22, 2020 10:43 pm Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Pistons Having the same pistons in the same engine at the same time is surely the preferred method by anyone who might know the difference and or gives a damn. However, I'm sure it's possible to keep a TR engine running with different combinations of just about any part that would fit. Even different size pistons, of course with their matching liners, would still make an engine run and propel the car down the road. For how long and at what speeds or level of performance is another story. The end result is up to you and depend on your requirements. Dave H. > On May 22, 2020 at 6:36 PM Geo Hahn wrote: > > Seems like they would be your best chance at balance right out of the box. > > On Fri, May 22, 2020 at 6:20 PM bill beecher < notakitcar at yahoo.com> wrote: > Is it just me or shouldn?t all the pistons be the same brand? > > #1&4 have ? > > Serenity Now...... > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye at comcast.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave at mdmackay.ca Sat May 23 13:14:45 2020 From: dave at mdmackay.ca (Dave MacKay) Date: Sat, 23 May 2020 15:14:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] Any update re: Randall? Message-ID: <3608314932a8496a55d1d305a82c8b4b@mail.gmail.com> Hello: Not long ago there were several posts asking about Randall Young, who was conspicuous by his absence from the list. At that time we learned he was in the hospital. Does anyone have an update on how he?s doing? I?m sure I?m not alone in considering Randall a valued friend, even though I?ve only ever engaged with him via this list. His contributions have been enormous. Hoping for good news ? Dave MacKay 1960 TR3A s/n 68639L near Toronto, Canada -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Sat May 23 15:58:01 2020 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Sat, 23 May 2020 21:58:01 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Any update re: Randall? In-Reply-To: <3608314932a8496a55d1d305a82c8b4b@mail.gmail.com> References: <3608314932a8496a55d1d305a82c8b4b@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <704851016.2646972.1590271081952@mail.yahoo.com> i have been trying to get info via the los angeles triumph club.no news ..sorryfrank On Saturday, May 23, 2020, 12:19:57 PM PDT, Dave MacKay wrote: Hello: ? Not long ago there were several posts asking about Randall Young, who was conspicuous by his absence from the list. At that time we learned he was in the hospital. Does anyone have an update on how he?s doing? ? I?m sure I?m not alone in considering Randall a valued friend, even though I?ve only ever engaged with him via this list. His contributions have been enormous. ? Hoping for good news ? ? Dave MacKay 1960 TR3A s/n 68639L near Toronto, Canada ? ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From trguy75 at gmail.com Sat May 23 17:16:50 2020 From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen) Date: Sat, 23 May 2020 19:16:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR7/TR8 blinker question Message-ID: <03d801d63158$3e0052e0$ba00f8a0$@gmail.com> Low mileage (18k) 81 TR8. Hasn't been run much. Beginning my regular exercise schedule on the car and notice the blinkers are working intermittently on both sides. Four way flasher work perfectly. When blinker does come on it is not a consistent pattern like the flashers. Three fast blinks two slow then nothing. Right now in garage I'm getting nothing. I'm thinking it is an electrical connection or contact point. Any recommendations on best place to start. All four bulbs working on flashers and other lights work too. Thanks, Jim Henningsen 61 TR3A 62 TR4 75 TR6 81 TR8 82 Jeep CJ8 (Looking for a new home) From jpaynepbr at cox.net Sat May 23 17:36:04 2020 From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (jpaynepbr at cox.net) Date: Sat, 23 May 2020 16:36:04 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR7/TR8 blinker question In-Reply-To: <03d801d63158$3e0052e0$ba00f8a0$@gmail.com> References: <03d801d63158$3e0052e0$ba00f8a0$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <001501d6315a$edff7d90$c9fe78b0$@cox.net> Jim, If its like other TR's (6's, Spitfires, etc.) then you have to use a lucas thermal flasher unit. The canister ones at the local parts store look similar, but the thermal bits inside are not the same, and will cause problems similar to what you are describing. There was also a recent string here on the late spitfire hazard switches, which everything run through on the late cars causing problems -----Original Message----- From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Jim Henningsen Sent: Saturday, May 23, 2020 4:17 PM To: 'Triumphs' Subject: [TR] TR7/TR8 blinker question Low mileage (18k) 81 TR8. Hasn't been run much. Beginning my regular exercise schedule on the car and notice the blinkers are working intermittently on both sides. Four way flasher work perfectly. When blinker does come on it is not a consistent pattern like the flashers. Three fast blinks two slow then nothing. Right now in garage I'm getting nothing. I'm thinking it is an electrical connection or contact point. Any recommendations on best place to start. All four bulbs working on flashers and other lights work too. Thanks, Jim Henningsen 61 TR3A 62 TR4 75 TR6 81 TR8 82 Jeep CJ8 (Looking for a new home) ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jpaynepbr at cox.net From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Sat May 23 20:42:50 2020 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sat, 23 May 2020 19:42:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR7/TR8 blinker question In-Reply-To: <03d801d63158$3e0052e0$ba00f8a0$@gmail.com> References: <03d801d63158$3e0052e0$ba00f8a0$@gmail.com> Message-ID: Jaguars of the same vintage used separate flasher units for the turn signals and the hazard lights (same bulbs of course). Just something to consider if you haven't checked. On Sat, May 23, 2020 at 4:33 PM Jim Henningsen wrote: > Low mileage (18k) 81 TR8. Hasn't been run much. Beginning my regular > exercise schedule on the car and notice the blinkers are working > intermittently on both sides. Four way flasher work perfectly. When > blinker > does come on it is not a consistent pattern like the flashers. Three fast > blinks two slow then nothing. Right now in garage I'm getting nothing. > I'm thinking it is an electrical connection or contact point. Any > recommendations on best place to start. All four bulbs working on flashers > and other lights work too. > Thanks, > Jim Henningsen > 61 TR3A > 62 TR4 > 75 TR6 > 81 TR8 > 82 Jeep CJ8 (Looking for a new home) > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ptegler at verizon.net Sat May 23 20:48:06 2020 From: ptegler at verizon.net (Paul Tegler) Date: Sat, 23 May 2020 22:48:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR7/TR8 blinker question In-Reply-To: <001501d6315a$edff7d90$c9fe78b0$@cox.net> References: <03d801d63158$3e0052e0$ba00f8a0$@gmail.com> <001501d6315a$edff7d90$c9fe78b0$@cox.net> Message-ID: single flasher? (two) yes the Spit (late model) switch can be a problem as you very rarely if ever use it. so the contact tarnish. cycle the switch 1/2 dozen or so times to wipe/clean the contacts and re-test. The thermal flasher you are using sounds like the issue...emergency flashers you're powering all the lights so more current flowing through the flasher. with turns only (one side), the lower load is not enough to heat and switch the flasher element. Simple fix... go to an electronic flasher. The only difference is you need to add a third connection to the flasher .. a ground connection. The electronic versions do not rely on current flow to flash, rather internal circuitry to toggle back and forth (on/off) Some will of course say the downside is the flasher will flash (you'll hear it) even if all the bulbs are burned out. ptegler On 5/23/2020 7:36 PM, jpaynepbr at cox.net wrote: > Jim, > > If its like other TR's (6's, Spitfires, etc.) then you have to use a lucas > thermal flasher unit. > > The canister ones at the local parts store look similar, but the thermal > bits inside are not the same, and will cause problems similar to what you > are describing. > > There was also a recent string here on the late spitfire hazard switches, > which everything run through on the late cars causing problems > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Jim Henningsen > Sent: Saturday, May 23, 2020 4:17 PM > To: 'Triumphs' > Subject: [TR] TR7/TR8 blinker question > > Low mileage (18k) 81 TR8. Hasn't been run much. Beginning my regular > exercise schedule on the car and notice the blinkers are working > intermittently on both sides. Four way flasher work perfectly. When blinker > does come on it is not a consistent pattern like the flashers. Three fast > blinks two slow then nothing. Right now in garage I'm getting nothing. > I'm thinking it is an electrical connection or contact point. Any > recommendations on best place to start. All four bulbs working on flashers > and other lights work too. > Thanks, > Jim Henningsen > 61 TR3A > 62 TR4 > 75 TR6 > 81 TR8 > 82 Jeep CJ8 (Looking for a new home) > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jpaynepbr at cox.net > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net -- Paul Tegler ptegler at verizon.net www.teglerizer.com From trguy75 at gmail.com Sun May 24 06:16:11 2020 From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen) Date: Sun, 24 May 2020 08:16:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR7/TR8 blinker question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks. Dig out the electrical diagram and repair manual. Turn signal flasher Relay should be under drivers side dash and hazard flasher under glove box. I?ll check turn signal flasher and see what I find. Will keep list posted. Probably bad flasher unit. Hoping one is available somewhere. Jim > On May 23, 2020, at 10:43 PM, Geo Hahn wrote: > > ? > Jaguars of the same vintage used separate flasher units for the turn signals and the hazard lights (same bulbs of course). > > Just something to consider if you haven't checked. > >> On Sat, May 23, 2020 at 4:33 PM Jim Henningsen wrote: >> Low mileage (18k) 81 TR8. Hasn't been run much. Beginning my regular >> exercise schedule on the car and notice the blinkers are working >> intermittently on both sides. Four way flasher work perfectly. When blinker >> does come on it is not a consistent pattern like the flashers. Three fast >> blinks two slow then nothing. Right now in garage I'm getting nothing. >> I'm thinking it is an electrical connection or contact point. Any >> recommendations on best place to start. All four bulbs working on flashers >> and other lights work too. >> Thanks, >> Jim Henningsen >> 61 TR3A >> 62 TR4 >> 75 TR6 >> 81 TR8 >> 82 Jeep CJ8 (Looking for a new home) >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Sun May 24 06:42:57 2020 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Sun, 24 May 2020 12:42:57 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR7/TR8 blinker question In-Reply-To: References: <03d801d63158$3e0052e0$ba00f8a0$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <375333258.543126.1590324177896@mail.yahoo.com> As does the TR8.? Heck even the TR250 has separate flashers for the turn and hazard lamps.? Since the turn signals only work when the key is ON but the hazards must work regardless they get their power from different sources.? Using two flasher units simplifies the wiring. As I recall the turn signal flasher is mounted behind the instrument panel and the hazard flasher is in the passenger footwell, but I might have that reversed. Standard troubleshooting procedures apply.? If both sides are acting the same way look at the parts of the circuit that are common to both.? That would be the flasher and the hazard switch (since the hazard switch connects the lamps to either circuit).? A dodgy contact in that switch can cause these symptoms.? The turn signals draw their power from the same fuse as the wipers so if the wipers work the fuse is good. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Geo Hahn To: Jim Henningsen Cc: Triumphs Sent: Sat, May 23, 2020 9:42 pm Subject: Re: [TR] TR7/TR8 blinker question Jaguars of the same vintage used separate flasher units for the turn signals and the hazard lights (same bulbs of course). Just something to consider if you haven't checked. On Sat, May 23, 2020 at 4:33 PM Jim Henningsen wrote: Low mileage (18k) 81 TR8.? Hasn't been run much.? Beginning my regular exercise schedule on the car and notice the blinkers are working intermittently on both sides. Four way flasher work perfectly.? When blinker does come on it is not a consistent pattern like the flashers.? Three fast blinks two slow? then nothing.? ? Right now in garage I'm getting nothing. I'm thinking it is an electrical? connection or contact point.? Any recommendations on best place to start.? All four bulbs working on flashers and other lights work too.? Thanks, Jim Henningsen 61 TR3A 62 TR4 75 TR6 81 TR8 82 Jeep CJ8 (Looking for a new home) ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From spamiam at comcast.net Sun May 24 13:22:51 2020 From: spamiam at comcast.net (Anthony Rhodes) Date: Sun, 24 May 2020 15:22:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR7/TR8 blinker question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <553734B6-F37E-4B0A-865E-311E7A0E9798@comcast.net> Also, the hazard switch itself can be the cause of a problem. Try exercising the switch a few times. That fixed the problem on my TR7 one time. -Tony Sent from my 1837 Babbage Analytical Engine > On May 24, 2020, at 2:10 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > Message: 3 > Date: Sat, 23 May 2020 19:16:50 -0400 > From: "Jim Henningsen" > To: "'Triumphs'" > Subject: [TR] TR7/TR8 blinker question > Message-ID: <03d801d63158$3e0052e0$ba00f8a0$@gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Low mileage (18k) 81 TR8. Hasn't been run much. Beginning my regular > exercise schedule on the car and notice the blinkers are working > intermittently on both sides. Four way flasher work perfectly. When blinker > does come on it is not a consistent pattern like the flashers. Three fast > blinks two slow then nothing. Right now in garage I'm getting nothing. > I'm thinking it is an electrical connection or contact point. Any > recommendations on best place to start. All four bulbs working on flashers > and other lights work too. > Thanks, > Jim Henningsen > 61 TR3A > 62 TR4 > 75 TR6 > 81 TR8 > 82 Jeep CJ8 (Looking for a new home) From trguy75 at gmail.com Sun May 24 16:12:53 2020 From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen) Date: Sun, 24 May 2020 18:12:53 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR7/TR8 blinker question In-Reply-To: <553734B6-F37E-4B0A-865E-311E7A0E9798@comcast.net> References: <553734B6-F37E-4B0A-865E-311E7A0E9798@comcast.net> Message-ID: <00b001d63218$788f27e0$69ad77a0$@gmail.com> Turns out it was a bad original Lucas flasher unit. The unit looked brand new. I have a picture of the original one in my late 81 TR8 if anyone wants one. I put in one from my TR6 used parts bin and it works with a normal blink. Hurray. The other part goes in the glove box for the Lucas originality museum ? Jim Henningsen -----Original Message----- From: Anthony Rhodes Sent: Sunday, May 24, 2020 3:23 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Cc: trguy75 at gmail.com Subject: Re: [TR] TR7/TR8 blinker question Also, the hazard switch itself can be the cause of a problem. Try exercising the switch a few times. That fixed the problem on my TR7 one time. -Tony Sent from my 1837 Babbage Analytical Engine > On May 24, 2020, at 2:10 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > Message: 3 > Date: Sat, 23 May 2020 19:16:50 -0400 > From: "Jim Henningsen" > To: "'Triumphs'" > Subject: [TR] TR7/TR8 blinker question > Message-ID: <03d801d63158$3e0052e0$ba00f8a0$@gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Low mileage (18k) 81 TR8. Hasn't been run much. Beginning my regular > exercise schedule on the car and notice the blinkers are working > intermittently on both sides. Four way flasher work perfectly. When > blinker does come on it is not a consistent pattern like the flashers. Three fast > blinks two slow then nothing. Right now in garage I'm getting nothing. > I'm thinking it is an electrical connection or contact point. Any > recommendations on best place to start. All four bulbs working on > flashers and other lights work too. > Thanks, > Jim Henningsen > 61 TR3A > 62 TR4 > 75 TR6 > 81 TR8 > 82 Jeep CJ8 (Looking for a new home) From fishplate at gmail.com Sun May 24 18:35:04 2020 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Sun, 24 May 2020 20:35:04 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Pistons In-Reply-To: <33F90F89-F321-40A9-AA53-EFF9DF760E64@yahoo.com> References: <33F90F89-F321-40A9-AA53-EFF9DF760E64@yahoo.com> Message-ID: What is the difference in weight between he pistons (and rods)? What is the difference in size? On Fri, May 22, 2020 at 9:21 PM bill beecher wrote: > Let?s try this again: > > ?Is it just me or shouldn?t all the pistons be the same brand? > > #1&4 have ?AB 8(could be a B) 413? > #2&3 have ?PD 140 RENZ? > > Looking for a vibration, maybe I found it? > Thx, > Bill B > TS75131E > > Serenity Now...... > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fishplate at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cliff_hansen at outlook.com Sun May 24 18:41:59 2020 From: cliff_hansen at outlook.com (Cliff Hansen) Date: Mon, 25 May 2020 00:41:59 +0000 Subject: [TR] In need of an inner axle assembly (RH) for TR-4A IRS Message-ID: ?or a source for the axle shaft with the wide keyway (3/8?). Unit was installed on the diff by someone else with a TR6 flange on a TR4A axle shaft, and no woodruff key. TIA, Cliff Sent from Mail for Windows 10 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From notakitcar at yahoo.com Sun May 24 18:54:36 2020 From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher) Date: Sun, 24 May 2020 19:54:36 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Pistons In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: They are all the same size and design, two of them weigh 2oz more. Bill Serenity Now...... On May 24, 2020, at 7:41 PM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote: ? What is the difference in weight between he pistons (and rods)? What is the difference in size? > On Fri, May 22, 2020 at 9:21 PM bill beecher wrote: > Let?s try this again: > > ?Is it just me or shouldn?t all the pistons be the same brand? > > #1&4 have ?AB 8(could be a B) 413? > #2&3 have ?PD 140 RENZ? > > Looking for a vibration, maybe I found it? > Thx, > Bill B > TS75131E > > Serenity Now...... > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fishplate at gmail.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From notakitcar at yahoo.com Sun May 24 18:54:36 2020 From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher) Date: Sun, 24 May 2020 19:54:36 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Pistons In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: They are all the same size and design, two of them weigh 2oz more. Bill Serenity Now...... On May 24, 2020, at 7:41 PM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote: ? What is the difference in weight between he pistons (and rods)? What is the difference in size? > On Fri, May 22, 2020 at 9:21 PM bill beecher wrote: > Let?s try this again: > > ?Is it just me or shouldn?t all the pistons be the same brand? > > #1&4 have ?AB 8(could be a B) 413? > #2&3 have ?PD 140 RENZ? > > Looking for a vibration, maybe I found it? > Thx, > Bill B > TS75131E > > Serenity Now...... > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fishplate at gmail.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mdporter at dfn.com Sun May 24 19:04:43 2020 From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter) Date: Sun, 24 May 2020 19:04:43 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 Pistons In-Reply-To: References: <33F90F89-F321-40A9-AA53-EFF9DF760E64@yahoo.com> Message-ID: On 5/24/2020 6:35 PM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote: > What?is the difference in weight between?he pistons?(and rods)?? What > is the difference in size? In a way, this is a "how big is an orange?" question.? So, the correct answer is probably, "smaller than a grapefruit and bigger than a grape."? The dimensions and weights will change from engine to engine, and in the case of aftermarket parts, from manufacturer to manufacturer.? The other issue is the /relative/ ratio between the two parts.? In general, I'd say that pistons are lighter than rods, simply because of the materials from which they're constructed, but, beyond that, the devil's in the details.? Forged pistons are generally heavier than cast ones, because forgings are slightly denser and intended for more severe duty.? Full skirts are heavier than split skirts. Rods have a fairly large range of weights, because the construction varies so much.? H-section, I-section, etc., change the weights a good deal. If I were to say, "rods are one-third heavier than pistons," or, "rods are one-third longer than pistons," that might be true in some very general way, but, it's not very helpful. :) Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mdporter at dfn.com Sun May 24 19:07:23 2020 From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter) Date: Sun, 24 May 2020 19:07:23 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 Pistons In-Reply-To: References: <33F90F89-F321-40A9-AA53-EFF9DF760E64@yahoo.com> Message-ID: <9c3e544e-1b65-73ad-fbeb-f8b246d5b7fe@dfn.com> On 5/24/2020 6:35 PM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote: > What?is the difference in weight between?he pistons?(and rods)?? What > is the difference in size? Oh, dear.? Oops, sorry, Jeff.? Thought you were asking a general question.? Didn't pay sufficient attention.? You were asking Bill about the specifics of his engine. I'll go back to sitting in the corner with my dunce cap on. Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From auprichard at uprichard.net Mon May 25 09:02:26 2020 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (andrew uprichard) Date: Mon, 25 May 2020 11:02:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] Now I know why I have so many TRs..... Message-ID: <001a01d632a5$81879f70$8496de50$@uprichard.net> Look what they get up to when my back is turned.. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_20200525_095400.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 4837326 bytes Desc: not available URL: From yellowtr at adelphia.net Mon May 25 10:24:54 2020 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Mon, 25 May 2020 12:24:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] Now I know why I have so many TRs..... In-Reply-To: <001a01d632a5$81879f70$8496de50$@uprichard.net> References: <001a01d632a5$81879f70$8496de50$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <948db51c-2e54-4a44-2057-7ddaec7d2801@adelphia.net> Andrew, 3 here in my garage but with no lift. L shaped garage fits the 3, 4 and 6 + a 74 Triumph Bonneville. I do have to do musical cars to get the car of the month out. Usually takes about an hour or so. Wish the garage was bigger but I make do with what I have. Bob On 5/25/20 11:02 AM, andrew uprichard wrote: > > Look what they get up to when my back is turned?. > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr at adelphia.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From elangtr4 at aol.com Mon May 25 10:27:29 2020 From: elangtr4 at aol.com (elangtr4 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 25 May 2020 16:27:29 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR7 running lights References: <1317693843.939984.1590424049754.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1317693843.939984.1590424049754@mail.yahoo.com> I've got a question about a recent issue with my son's TR7. The running lights including the side marker lights don't turn on.When the headlights are switched on the lights pop up and turn on, but none of the others lights come on. At the first light position, parking lights only, they also do not light up.Turn signals, brake lights, and emergency flashers all work correctly. Any ideas? Bad switch maybe?Thanks,Eric Langreder71 TR6 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From trguy75 at gmail.com Mon May 25 10:43:25 2020 From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen) Date: Mon, 25 May 2020 12:43:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR8 Indicator Flasher Relay Update Message-ID: <010d01d632b3$9cec6080$d6c52180$@gmail.com> List: Regarding the fault on my left and right blinkers, I wanted to share that I also ordered a CEC Flasher TF552/536 flasher on amazon for $5.82 and it blinks perfectly. No fast blink like some relays. Amazon link below: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001DKJTVW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_ s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Will keep this in my spares spreadsheet database. For all those who are veterans on the list, a BIG thank you for your service! Remembering all of our fallen who gave their lives for our great country today. Jim Henningsen Ocala, FL From trguy75 at gmail.com Mon May 25 10:46:06 2020 From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen) Date: Mon, 25 May 2020 12:46:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] Now I know why I have so many TRs..... In-Reply-To: <001a01d632a5$81879f70$8496de50$@uprichard.net> References: <001a01d632a5$81879f70$8496de50$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <013f01d632b3$fc737c50$f55a74f0$@gmail.com> Wish I could fit one of those in my garage. Jim Henningsen From: Triumphs On Behalf Of andrew uprichard Sent: Monday, May 25, 2020 11:02 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Now I know why I have so many TRs..... Look what they get up to when my back is turned.. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_3728.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 2367236 bytes Desc: not available URL: From fishplate at gmail.com Mon May 25 12:30:05 2020 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Mon, 25 May 2020 14:30:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] In need of an inner axle assembly (RH) for TR-4A IRS In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Is the only difference the keyway? Any decent machine shop could cut a new one, probably for less than the cost of shipping a replacement part to you. On Sun, May 24, 2020 at 8:42 PM Cliff Hansen wrote: > ?or a source for the axle shaft with the wide keyway (3/8?). Unit was > installed on the diff by someone else with a TR6 flange on a TR4A axle > shaft, and no woodruff key. > > > > TIA, > > > Cliff > > > > > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fishplate at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fishplate at gmail.com Mon May 25 12:33:28 2020 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Mon, 25 May 2020 14:33:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Pistons In-Reply-To: <9c3e544e-1b65-73ad-fbeb-f8b246d5b7fe@dfn.com> References: <33F90F89-F321-40A9-AA53-EFF9DF760E64@yahoo.com> <9c3e544e-1b65-73ad-fbeb-f8b246d5b7fe@dfn.com> Message-ID: LOL. I read your answer, and didn't even realize you were answering my question. It was a good answer for what it was, but I couldn't figure out why someone had asked such a weird question... Cheers, Jeff On Sun, May 24, 2020 at 9:07 PM Michael Porter wrote: > On 5/24/2020 6:35 PM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote: > > What is the difference in weight between he pistons (and rods)? What > > is the difference in size? > > Oh, dear. Oops, sorry, Jeff. Thought you were asking a general > question. Didn't pay sufficient attention. You were asking Bill about > the specifics of his engine. > > I'll go back to sitting in the corner with my dunce cap on. > > > Cheers. > > -- > > > Michael Porter > Roswell, NM > > > Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking > distance.... > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From auprichard at uprichard.net Mon May 25 13:00:32 2020 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (andrew uprichard) Date: Mon, 25 May 2020 15:00:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] SU HS6 carbs Message-ID: <005301d632c6$c4b46b40$4e1d41c0$@uprichard.net> I know the front H6 carb has a port for the vacuum line which runs to the distributor. Is there a similar port on HS6 carbs, and if so, where is it located? Thanks in advance, Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From notakitcar at yahoo.com Mon May 25 13:23:39 2020 From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher) Date: Mon, 25 May 2020 14:23:39 -0500 Subject: [TR] SU HS6 carbs In-Reply-To: <005301d632c6$c4b46b40$4e1d41c0$@uprichard.net> References: <005301d632c6$c4b46b40$4e1d41c0$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <920A70B8-9F1D-4B62-A0EE-A6D03BF1B74F@yahoo.com> On the top between the dome and the rear flange. Picture attached, don?t know it it will go through. Serenity Now...... On May 25, 2020, at 2:04 PM, andrew uprichard wrote: ? I know the front H6 carb has a port for the vacuum line which runs to the distributor. Is there a similar port on HS6 carbs, and if so, where is it located? Thanks in advance, Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image0.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 86477 bytes Desc: not available URL: From notakitcar at yahoo.com Mon May 25 13:23:39 2020 From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher) Date: Mon, 25 May 2020 14:23:39 -0500 Subject: [TR] SU HS6 carbs In-Reply-To: <005301d632c6$c4b46b40$4e1d41c0$@uprichard.net> References: <005301d632c6$c4b46b40$4e1d41c0$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <920A70B8-9F1D-4B62-A0EE-A6D03BF1B74F@yahoo.com> On the top between the dome and the rear flange. Picture attached, don?t know it it will go through. Serenity Now...... On May 25, 2020, at 2:04 PM, andrew uprichard wrote: ? I know the front H6 carb has a port for the vacuum line which runs to the distributor. Is there a similar port on HS6 carbs, and if so, where is it located? Thanks in advance, Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image0.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 86477 bytes Desc: not available URL: From auprichard at uprichard.net Mon May 25 13:32:58 2020 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (andrew uprichard) Date: Mon, 25 May 2020 15:32:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] SU HS6 carbs In-Reply-To: <920A70B8-9F1D-4B62-A0EE-A6D03BF1B74F@yahoo.com> References: <005301d632c6$c4b46b40$4e1d41c0$@uprichard.net> <920A70B8-9F1D-4B62-A0EE-A6D03BF1B74F@yahoo.com> Message-ID: <001301d632cb$4cdab5c0$e6902140$@uprichard.net> Thanks, Bill. As the Irish would say, ?yer great? ! Andrew From: bill beecher Sent: Monday, May 25, 2020 3:24 PM To: andrew uprichard Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] SU HS6 carbs On the top between the dome and the rear flange. Picture attached, don?t know it it will go through. Serenity Now...... On May 25, 2020, at 2:04 PM, andrew uprichard > wrote: ? I know the front H6 carb has a port for the vacuum line which runs to the distributor. Is there a similar port on HS6 carbs, and if so, where is it located? Thanks in advance, Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/notakitcar at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 86477 bytes Desc: not available URL: From HDRider570 at att.net Tue May 26 15:52:30 2020 From: HDRider570 at att.net (Q) Date: Tue, 26 May 2020 14:52:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] Rover V8 Drive-line upgrade References: <62f62715-5939-d877-4248-d637a4bda47b.ref@att.net> Message-ID: <62f62715-5939-d877-4248-d637a4bda47b@att.net> I have been making video's about my 1970 Rover P6 3500S engine/transmission upgrade and posting them on YouTube if anyone is interested. Here is a link for the first one; https://youtu.be/azMC06NVtZ8 or you can just search for Rover P6 Driveline upgrade on YouTube. Required Triumph content.? I am wearing my TR hat and my TR7 parts car is in the background. Edward Hamer Petaluma CA From daveg at online.no Thu May 28 04:24:27 2020 From: daveg at online.no (David Griffiths) Date: Thu, 28 May 2020 12:24:27 +0200 Subject: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch Message-ID: Hello all, TR3. LO15005/TS10601E I would be very grateful if someone could take a close up picture and/or a description of the way the door-opening strap on the inside of the door fastens to the door latch. I understand that the strap inner is of tough leather, about a quarter inch in diameter, but I don?t know how to fasten it to the latch, which on this car is just a threaded rod sticking out of the vinyl of the door with an acorn nut on it. On the rod there is a bit of metal like what you find on a zipper to move it up and down, with ?YKK? on it. Perhaps it is. The only commercial thing I could find was at Macy?s, but the pic was so small it didn?t help much: https://macysgarage.com/parts-new.htm. I have the outer sleeve. Thanks, Dave From dave1massey at cs.com Thu May 28 05:46:55 2020 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Thu, 28 May 2020 11:46:55 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <606726595.125945.1590666415052@mail.yahoo.com> That's more than what I have.? I don't even have the bit of metal that extends through the door panel.? I do have (somewhere) the escutcheons but other than that I am starting at zero. I, too am interested in any information regarding this. Dave -----Original Message----- From: David Griffiths To: Triumph_send_message Sent: Thu, May 28, 2020 5:24 am Subject: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch Hello all, TR3. LO15005/TS10601E I would be very grateful if someone could take a close up picture and/or a description of the way the door-opening strap on the inside of the door fastens to the door latch. I understand that the strap inner is of tough leather, about a quarter inch in diameter, but I don?t know how to fasten it to the latch, which on this car is just a threaded rod sticking out of the vinyl of the door with an acorn nut on it. On the rod there is a bit of metal like what you find on a zipper to move it up and down, with ?YKK? on it. Perhaps it is. The only commercial thing I could find was at Macy?s, but the pic was so small it didn?t help much: https://macysgarage.com/parts-new.htm. I have the outer sleeve. Thanks, Dave ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From auprichard at uprichard.net Thu May 28 06:13:53 2020 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (andrew uprichard) Date: Thu, 28 May 2020 08:13:53 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch In-Reply-To: <606726595.125945.1590666415052@mail.yahoo.com> References: <606726595.125945.1590666415052@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <002601d634e9$74b8f0f0$5e2ad2d0$@uprichard.net> Is this what you are asking about? Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan From: Triumphs On Behalf Of DAVID MASSEY Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2020 7:47 AM To: daveg at online.no; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch That's more than what I have. I don't even have the bit of metal that extends through the door panel. I do have (somewhere) the escutcheons but other than that I am starting at zero. I, too am interested in any information regarding this. Dave -----Original Message----- From: David Griffiths > To: Triumph_send_message > Sent: Thu, May 28, 2020 5:24 am Subject: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch Hello all, TR3. LO15005/TS10601E I would be very grateful if someone could take a close up picture and/or a description of the way the door-opening strap on the inside of the door fastens to the door latch. I understand that the strap inner is of tough leather, about a quarter inch in diameter, but I don?t know how to fasten it to the latch, which on this car is just a threaded rod sticking out of the vinyl of the door with an acorn nut on it. On the rod there is a bit of metal like what you find on a zipper to move it up and down, with ?YKK? on it. Perhaps it is. The only commercial thing I could find was at Macy?s, but the pic was so small it didn?t help much: https://macysgarage.com/parts-new.htm. I have the outer sleeve. Thanks, Dave ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_20200528_081054.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3524248 bytes Desc: not available URL: From yellowtr at adelphia.net Thu May 28 07:55:02 2020 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Thu, 28 May 2020 09:55:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch In-Reply-To: <002601d634e9$74b8f0f0$5e2ad2d0$@uprichard.net> References: <606726595.125945.1590666415052@mail.yahoo.com> <002601d634e9$74b8f0f0$5e2ad2d0$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: In all my years with TR3s, I have never seen this strap. Aftermarket? Bob On 5/28/20 8:13 AM, andrew uprichard wrote: > > Is this what you are asking about? > > Andrew Uprichard > > Jackson, Michigan > > *From:* Triumphs *On Behalf Of > *DAVID MASSEY > *Sent:* Thursday, May 28, 2020 7:47 AM > *To:* daveg at online.no; triumphs at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the > door latch > > That's more than what I have.? I don't even have the bit of metal that > extends through the door panel.? I do have (somewhere) the escutcheons > but other than that I am starting at zero. > > I, too am interested in any information regarding this. > > Dave > > -----Original Message----- > From: David Griffiths > > To: Triumph_send_message > > Sent: Thu, May 28, 2020 5:24 am > Subject: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch > > Hello all, > > TR3. LO15005/TS10601E > > I would be very grateful if someone could take a close up picture > and/or a description of the way the door-opening strap on the inside > of the door fastens to the door latch. I understand that the strap > inner is of tough leather, about a quarter inch in diameter, but I > don?t know how to fasten it to the latch, which on this car is just a > threaded rod sticking out of the vinyl of the door with an acorn nut > on it. On the rod there is a bit of metal like what you find on a > zipper to move it up and down, with ?YKK? on it. Perhaps it is. The > only commercial thing I could find was at Macy?s, but the pic was so > small it didn?t help much: https://macysgarage.com/parts-new.htm. I > have the outer sleeve. > > Thanks, > > Dave > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr at adelphia.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Thu May 28 08:41:28 2020 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Thu, 28 May 2020 14:41:28 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch In-Reply-To: <002601d634e9$74b8f0f0$5e2ad2d0$@uprichard.net> References: <606726595.125945.1590666415052@mail.yahoo.com> <002601d634e9$74b8f0f0$5e2ad2d0$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <1077381947.701571.1590676888259@mail.yahoo.com> Yes.? My biggest question is where can I get those parts?? Dave says the inner part is heavy gauge leather.? It looks like the outer is thinner, more supple leather.? I have neither.? Does anyone sell these parts? Dave -----Original Message----- From: andrew uprichard To: 'DAVID MASSEY' ; daveg at online.no; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, May 28, 2020 7:13 am Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch #yiv9740451041 #yiv9740451041 -- _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv9740451041 #yiv9740451041 p.yiv9740451041MsoNormal, #yiv9740451041 li.yiv9740451041MsoNormal, #yiv9740451041 div.yiv9740451041MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv9740451041 a:link, #yiv9740451041 span.yiv9740451041MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv9740451041 span.yiv9740451041EmailStyle19 {font-family:New serif;color:#1F497D;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;text-decoration:none none;}#yiv9740451041 .yiv9740451041MsoChpDefault {font-family:sans-serif;} _filtered {}#yiv9740451041 div.yiv9740451041WordSection1 {}#yiv9740451041 Is this what you are asking about? ?Andrew UprichardJackson, Michigan ?From: Triumphs On Behalf Of DAVID MASSEY Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2020 7:47 AM To: daveg at online.no; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch ?That's more than what I have.? I don't even have the bit of metal that extends through the door panel.? I do have (somewhere) the escutcheons but other than that I am starting at zero. ?I, too am interested in any information regarding this. ?Dave ? ?-----Original Message----- From: David Griffiths To: Triumph_send_message Sent: Thu, May 28, 2020 5:24 am Subject: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latchHello all, ?TR3. LO15005/TS10601E ?I would be very grateful if someone could take a close up picture and/or a description of the way the door-opening strap on the inside of the door fastens to the door latch. I understand that the strap inner is of tough leather, about a quarter inch in diameter, but I don?t know how to fasten it to the latch, which on this car is just a threaded rod sticking out of the vinyl of the door with an acorn nut on it. On the rod there is a bit of metal like what you find on a zipper to move it up and down, with ?YKK? on it. Perhaps it is. The only commercial thing I could find was at Macy?s, but the pic was so small it didn?t help much: https://macysgarage.com/parts-new.htm. I have the outer sleeve. ?Thanks, Dave** triumphs at autox.team.net ** ?Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.htmlArchive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive ?Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Thu May 28 08:49:37 2020 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Thu, 28 May 2020 14:49:37 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch In-Reply-To: References: <606726595.125945.1590666415052@mail.yahoo.com> <002601d634e9$74b8f0f0$5e2ad2d0$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <1924946695.695818.1590677377448@mail.yahoo.com> I wonder if there is enough demand to entice some leather craftsman or upholsterer to reproduce these.? Not much required in the way of tooling, unlike some TR parts. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Bob To: Triumphs Sent: Thu, May 28, 2020 8:55 am Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch In all my years with TR3s, I have never seen this strap. Aftermarket? Bob On 5/28/20 8:13 AM, andrew uprichard wrote: #yiv9600218584 #yiv9600218584 -- _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv9600218584 #yiv9600218584 p.yiv9600218584MsoNormal, #yiv9600218584 li.yiv9600218584MsoNormal, #yiv9600218584 div.yiv9600218584MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv9600218584 a:link, #yiv9600218584 span.yiv9600218584MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv9600218584 span.yiv9600218584EmailStyle19 {font-family:New serif;color:#1F497D;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;text-decoration:none none;}#yiv9600218584 .yiv9600218584MsoChpDefault {font-family:sans-serif;} _filtered {}#yiv9600218584 div.yiv9600218584WordSection1 {}#yiv9600218584 Is this what you are asking about? ? Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan ? From: Triumphs On Behalf Of DAVID MASSEY Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2020 7:47 AM To: daveg at online.no; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch ? That's more than what I have.? I don't even have the bit of metal that extends through the door panel.? I do have (somewhere) the escutcheons but other than that I am starting at zero. ? I, too am interested in any information regarding this. ? Dave ? ? -----Original Message----- From: David Griffiths To: Triumph_send_message Sent: Thu, May 28, 2020 5:24 am Subject: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch Hello all, ? TR3. LO15005/TS10601E ? I would be very grateful if someone could take a close up picture and/or a description of the way the door-opening strap on the inside of the door fastens to the door latch. I understand that the strap inner is of tough leather, about a quarter inch in diameter, but I don?t know how to fasten it to the latch, which on this car is just a threaded rod sticking out of the vinyl of the door with an acorn nut on it. On the rod there is a bit of metal like what you find on a zipper to move it up and down, with ?YKK? on it. Perhaps it is. The only commercial thing I could find was at Macy?s, but the pic was so small it didn?t help much: https://macysgarage.com/parts-new.htm. I have the outer sleeve. ? Thanks, Dave ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** ? Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive ? Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr at adelphia.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From johnmidas10717 at yahoo.com Thu May 28 09:05:32 2020 From: johnmidas10717 at yahoo.com (JOHN BARRON) Date: Thu, 28 May 2020 15:05:32 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Door stop References: <1297085065.710764.1590678332889.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1297085065.710764.1590678332889@mail.yahoo.com> Hope this will help??John TS56437 Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20190719_224106.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3419378 bytes Desc: not available URL: From pryner at outlook.com Thu May 28 09:20:14 2020 From: pryner at outlook.com (Peter Ryner) Date: Thu, 28 May 2020 15:20:14 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch In-Reply-To: <002601d634e9$74b8f0f0$5e2ad2d0$@uprichard.net> References: <606726595.125945.1590666415052@mail.yahoo.com> <002601d634e9$74b8f0f0$5e2ad2d0$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: I scanned this from Piggott?s book. From what I?ve found you?ll need to fashion the fabric covering yourself. Other parts are available. I think I got mine from TRF. My car isn?t back from the painter yet so I don?t have a finished picture what I envision on mine. Good luck Pete From: Triumphs On Behalf Of andrew uprichard Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2020 8:14 AM To: 'DAVID MASSEY' ; daveg at online.no; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch Is this what you are asking about? Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan From: Triumphs > On Behalf Of DAVID MASSEY Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2020 7:47 AM To: daveg at online.no; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch That's more than what I have. I don't even have the bit of metal that extends through the door panel. I do have (somewhere) the escutcheons but other than that I am starting at zero. I, too am interested in any information regarding this. Dave -----Original Message----- From: David Griffiths > To: Triumph_send_message > Sent: Thu, May 28, 2020 5:24 am Subject: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch Hello all, TR3. LO15005/TS10601E I would be very grateful if someone could take a close up picture and/or a description of the way the door-opening strap on the inside of the door fastens to the door latch. I understand that the strap inner is of tough leather, about a quarter inch in diameter, but I don?t know how to fasten it to the latch, which on this car is just a threaded rod sticking out of the vinyl of the door with an acorn nut on it. On the rod there is a bit of metal like what you find on a zipper to move it up and down, with ?YKK? on it. Perhaps it is. The only commercial thing I could find was at Macy?s, but the pic was so small it didn?t help much: https://macysgarage.com/parts-new.htm. I have the outer sleeve. Thanks, Dave ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: tr door.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 401731 bytes Desc: tr door.jpg URL: From hdrider570 at att.net Thu May 28 10:00:47 2020 From: hdrider570 at att.net (Q) Date: Thu, 28 May 2020 16:00:47 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Rover Videos References: <600668000.1114919.1590681647551.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <600668000.1114919.1590681647551@mail.yahoo.com> I have posted some more videos of my Rover P6 Driveline upgrade on YouTube. Here are the links for all of them so far https://youtu.be/azMC06NVtZ8 https://youtu.be/UKtdmAngqyw https://youtu.be/lLFzgNuFXEc https://youtu.be/OmOoeyc66Js https://youtu.be/vSzRLVBN5Kc ??? More to come as I make progress. Edward HamerPetaluma CA -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Thu May 28 10:16:09 2020 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Thu, 28 May 2020 16:16:09 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch In-Reply-To: References: <606726595.125945.1590666415052@mail.yahoo.com> <002601d634e9$74b8f0f0$5e2ad2d0$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <1534274831.762173.1590682569760@mail.yahoo.com> Thanks.? It hasn't been a priority lately since I have a 3A style pull that "works" but getting this addressed has always been a goal.? I'll have a look at TRF. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Peter Ryner To: andrew uprichard ; 'DAVID MASSEY' ; daveg at online.no ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, May 28, 2020 10:20 am Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch #yiv9953131288 #yiv9953131288 -- _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv9953131288 #yiv9953131288 p.yiv9953131288MsoNormal, #yiv9953131288 li.yiv9953131288MsoNormal, #yiv9953131288 div.yiv9953131288MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv9953131288 a:link, #yiv9953131288 span.yiv9953131288MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv9953131288 span.yiv9953131288EmailStyle20 {font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv9953131288 .yiv9953131288MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered {}#yiv9953131288 div.yiv9953131288WordSection1 {}#yiv9953131288 I scanned this from Piggott?s book.? From what I?ve found you?ll need to fashion the fabric covering yourself.? Other parts are available.? I think I got mine from TRF.? My car isn?t back from the painter yet so I don?t have a finished picture what I envision on mine. Good luck Pete ? From: Triumphs On Behalf Ofandrew uprichard Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2020 8:14 AM To: 'DAVID MASSEY' ; daveg at online.no; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch ? Is this what you are asking about? ? Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan ? From: Triumphs On Behalf Of DAVID MASSEY Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2020 7:47 AM To: daveg at online.no; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch ? That's more than what I have.? I don't even have the bit of metal that extends through the door panel.? I do have (somewhere) the escutcheons but other than that I am starting at zero. ? I, too am interested in any information regarding this. ? Dave ? ? -----Original Message----- From: David Griffiths To: Triumph_send_message Sent: Thu, May 28, 2020 5:24 am Subject: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch Hello all, ? TR3. LO15005/TS10601E ? I would be very grateful if someone could take a close up picture and/or a description of the way the door-opening strap on the inside of the door fastens to the door latch. I understand that the strap inner is of tough leather, about a quarter inch in diameter, but I don?t know how to fasten it to the latch, which on this car is just a threaded rod sticking out of the vinyl of the door with an acorn nut on it. On the rod there is a bit of metal like what you find on a zipper to move it up and down, with ?YKK? on it. Perhaps it is. The only commercial thing I could find was at Macy?s, but the pic was so small it didn?t help much:https://macysgarage.com/parts-new.htm.I have the outer sleeve. ? Thanks, Dave **triumphs at autox.team.net ** ? Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphshttp://www.team.net/archive ? Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ckjordan at kc.rr.com Thu May 28 10:33:54 2020 From: ckjordan at kc.rr.com (Keith Jordan) Date: Thu, 28 May 2020 11:33:54 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch Message-ID: <1FAF60D9-A8DC-4E22-A6FA-665CEB50AF7C@kc.rr.com> Answering David Griffiths question about the door latch strap, if you?re referring to the inside door pull, this was the way one opened the doors on a TR2 through TR3. It changed to the cable-pull inside the door pocket on the TR3A. The pull was a leather ?rope,? in essence, with triangular ?hog rings? at each end. This was encased in a vinyl or leather sheath and attached to the door latch (on a protruding threaded rod) at the rear of the door and capped at the other end with a tapered ferule which was screw to the top of the door panel just behind the forward chrome sidescreen wedge. The leather insides and hardware are available from Macy?s Garage and you can have an upholstery shop sew the outside covering. On my current interior, I did just that and the upholstery shop cost was about $40, including material. The threaded rod at the rear and the ferule/screw at the front go through the hog rings to attach. Andrew?s photo of the red pull shows the rear attachment very well. For additional installation info, see John Durant?s series of threads on upholstery at: https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?109923-Upholstery-!/page5&highlight=upholstery Starting at number 88. Hopefully this answers all the questions. Keith Jordan 1957 TR3 TS20447LO -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From keithstewart at bell.net Thu May 28 11:02:33 2020 From: keithstewart at bell.net (Keith Stewart) Date: Thu, 28 May 2020 13:02:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch In-Reply-To: <1077381947.701571.1590676888259@mail.yahoo.com> References: <606726595.125945.1590666415052@mail.yahoo.com> <002601d634e9$74b8f0f0$5e2ad2d0$@uprichard.net> <1077381947.701571.1590676888259@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <076701d63511$c89c4910$59d4db30$@bell.net> Can?t swear as to originality, but the ones on my 57 TR3 are leather on the outside but the leather encases a link chain ? with the latch shaft going through the end link and held in place by a nut while the end link at the other end is secured by a screw under the escutcheon for the outer leather strap. Keith Stewart keithstewart at bell.net From: DAVID MASSEY Sent: May 28, 2020 10:41 AM To: auprichard at uprichard.net; daveg at online.no; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch Yes. My biggest question is where can I get those parts? Dave says the inner part is heavy gauge leather. It looks like the outer is thinner, more supple leather. I have neither. Does anyone sell these parts? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jr468 at hotmail.com Thu May 28 12:57:35 2020 From: jr468 at hotmail.com (John Reed) Date: Thu, 28 May 2020 18:57:35 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hey Dave, Attached is a photo of the pull cord on a TR3 (maybe TR2) with the original interior. I took this sometime in the early 1990s, but I don't recall when, where or the owner. I made mine by taking a piece of braided wire and creating loops on both ends using some wire crimps (probably using electrical crimp connectors with the outer plastic removed). I ran this wire through a rubber hose of a length so that part of the loop stuck out one end by about 1/2" (for the rear stud end) and maybe a bit more on the front end. The crimps were inside the hose. I took that and some pieces of interior material to a local upholstery shop. He wrapped the material around the hose and sewed a seam tight against the hose. The rear end was also sewed shut. I poked a hole in material at the rear where the loop stuck out past the hose and fit that over the latch stud and secured it with an acorn nut. And poked another hole in the material for the front screw to pass. The seam ran along the bottom of the pull strap. I bought a used front trim piece, but when I saw the condition of it, I instead used a convertible top bow finisher. It was the same thing and new. If I did it again I'd probably buy the parts from Mark Macy and have those covered. The photo in Piggott's book is a bit different. It shows the material stopping before it gets to the latch stud. I don't know which is correct, but the owner of the vehicle in my photo told me it was original and the one in the book looks restored. best, John -----Original Message----- From: David Griffiths To: Triumph_send_message Sent: Thu, May 28, 2020 5:24 Subject: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch Hello all, TR3. LO15005/TS10601E I would be very grateful if someone could take a close up picture and/or a description of the way the door-opening strap on the inside of the door fastens to the door latch. I understand that the strap inner is of tough leather, about a quarter inch in diameter, but I don?t know how to fasten it to the latch, which on this car is just a threaded rod sticking out of the vinyl of the door with an acorn nut on it. On the rod there is a bit of metal like what you find on a zipper to move it up and down, with ?YKK? on it. Perhaps it is. The only commercial thing I could find was at Macy?s, but the pic was so small it didn?t help much: https://eur03.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fmacysgarage.com%2Fparts-new.htm&data=02%7C01%7C%7C62da71f1e18a42e1068408d803051db8%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637262667818617103&sdata=Q1aziC2U3lJwvPGyMyuWKjEB7ga%2Ft4wqxARjXU9KYqs%3D&reserved=0. I have the outer sleeve. Thanks, Dave ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: TR3 door pull strap.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 415165 bytes Desc: TR3 door pull strap.jpg URL: From triumphstag at gmail.com Thu May 28 14:56:59 2020 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy) Date: Thu, 28 May 2020 13:56:59 -0700 Subject: [TR] Rover Videos In-Reply-To: <600668000.1114919.1590681647551@mail.yahoo.com> References: <600668000.1114919.1590681647551.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <600668000.1114919.1590681647551@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Great videos. Are there many P6's in America? Two of my neighbors while growing up in UK had P6's. Very fine cars. Sujit On Thu, May 28, 2020 at 9:06 AM Q wrote: > I have posted some more videos of my Rover P6 Driveline upgrade on YouTube. > > Here are the links for all of them so far > > https://youtu.be/azMC06NVtZ8 > https://youtu.be/UKtdmAngqyw > https://youtu.be/lLFzgNuFXEc > https://youtu.be/OmOoeyc66Js > https://youtu.be/vSzRLVBN5Kc > > More to come as I make progress. > > Edward Hamer > Petaluma CA > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumphstag at gmail.com > -- Sujit Roy Cupertino, California https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From don.hiscock at gmail.com Thu May 28 10:08:14 2020 From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Thu, 28 May 2020 11:08:14 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch In-Reply-To: References: <606726595.125945.1590666415052@mail.yahoo.com> <002601d634e9$74b8f0f0$5e2ad2d0$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: Here's the door pull on an original unrestored long-door TR2. https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-thtV5fw/0/1694173b/O/i-thtV5fw.jpg Don Saint Louis 1962 TR3B TSF202L On Thu, May 28, 2020 at 11:02 AM Peter Ryner wrote: > I scanned this from Piggott?s book. From what I?ve found you?ll need to > fashion the fabric covering yourself. Other parts are available. I think > I got mine from TRF. My car isn?t back from the painter yet so I don?t > have a finished picture what I envision on mine. > > Good luck > > Pete > > > > *From:* Triumphs *On Behalf Of *andrew > uprichard > *Sent:* Thursday, May 28, 2020 8:14 AM > *To:* 'DAVID MASSEY' ; daveg at online.no; > triumphs at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the > door latch > > > > Is this what you are asking about? > > > > Andrew Uprichard > > Jackson, Michigan > > > > *From:* Triumphs *On Behalf Of *DAVID > MASSEY > *Sent:* Thursday, May 28, 2020 7:47 AM > *To:* daveg at online.no; triumphs at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the > door latch > > > > That's more than what I have. I don't even have the bit of metal that > extends through the door panel. I do have (somewhere) the escutcheons but > other than that I am starting at zero. > > > > I, too am interested in any information regarding this. > > > > Dave > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: David Griffiths > To: Triumph_send_message > Sent: Thu, May 28, 2020 5:24 am > Subject: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch > > Hello all, > > > > TR3. LO15005/TS10601E > > > > I would be very grateful if someone could take a close up picture and/or a > description of the way the door-opening strap on the inside of the door > fastens to the door latch. I understand that the strap inner is of tough > leather, about a quarter inch in diameter, but I don?t know how to fasten > it to the latch, which on this car is just a threaded rod sticking out of > the vinyl of the door with an acorn nut on it. On the rod there is a bit of > metal like what you find on a zipper to move it up and down, with ?YKK? on > it. Perhaps it is. The only commercial thing I could find was at Macy?s, > but the pic was so small it didn?t help much: https://macysgarage.com/parts-new.htm. > I have the outer sleeve. > > > > Thanks, > > Dave > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Thu May 28 10:18:27 2020 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Thu, 28 May 2020 16:18:27 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch In-Reply-To: References: <606726595.125945.1590666415052@mail.yahoo.com> <002601d634e9$74b8f0f0$5e2ad2d0$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <629795005.740779.1590682707384@mail.yahoo.com> Wow, that has really drooped over the years.? ;-) I suspect the forward end should have been attached to a screw further forward.? But, factory original is factory original. Thanks for the picture. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Don Hiscock To: Peter Ryner Cc: andrew uprichard ; DAVID MASSEY ; daveg at online.no ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, May 28, 2020 11:08 am Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch Here's the door pull on an original unrestored long-door TR2.https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-thtV5fw/0/1694173b/O/i-thtV5fw.jpg DonSaint Louis1962 TR3B TSF202L On Thu, May 28, 2020 at 11:02 AM Peter Ryner wrote: I scanned this from Piggott?s book.? From what I?ve found you?ll need to fashion the fabric covering yourself.? Other parts are available.? I think I got mine from TRF.? My car isn?t back from the painter yet so I don?t have a finished picture what I envision on mine.Good luck Pete?From: Triumphs On Behalf Ofandrew uprichard Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2020 8:14 AM To: 'DAVID MASSEY' ; daveg at online.no; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch?Is this what you are asking about??Andrew UprichardJackson, Michigan?From: Triumphs On Behalf Of DAVID MASSEY Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2020 7:47 AM To: daveg at online.no; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch?That's more than what I have.? I don't even have the bit of metal that extends through the door panel.? I do have (somewhere) the escutcheons but other than that I am starting at zero. ?I, too am interested in any information regarding this.?Dave??-----Original Message----- From: David Griffiths To: Triumph_send_message Sent: Thu, May 28, 2020 5:24 am Subject: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latchHello all,?TR3. LO15005/TS10601E?I would be very grateful if someone could take a close up picture and/or a description of the way the door-opening strap on the inside of the door fastens to the door latch. I understand that the strap inner is of tough leather, about a quarter inch in diameter, but I don?t know how to fasten it to the latch, which on this car is just a threaded rod sticking out of the vinyl of the door with an acorn nut on it. On the rod there is a bit of metal like what you find on a zipper to move it up and down, with ?YKK? on it. Perhaps it is. The only commercial thing I could find was at Macy?s, but the pic was so small it didn?t help much:https://macysgarage.com/parts-new.htm.I have the outer sleeve. ?Thanks,Dave**triumphs at autox.team.net **?Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.htmlArchive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphshttp://www.team.net/archive?Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From don.hiscock at gmail.com Thu May 28 10:55:51 2020 From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Thu, 28 May 2020 11:55:51 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch In-Reply-To: <629795005.740779.1590682707384@mail.yahoo.com> References: <606726595.125945.1590666415052@mail.yahoo.com> <002601d634e9$74b8f0f0$5e2ad2d0$@uprichard.net> <629795005.740779.1590682707384@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I can't say "factory original" for sure, Dave, although it probably is. I can say "unrestored" for sure. On Thu, May 28, 2020 at 11:18 AM DAVID MASSEY wrote: > Wow, that has really drooped over the years. ;-) > > I suspect the forward end should have been attached to a screw further > forward. But, factory original is factory original. > > Thanks for the picture. > > Dave > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Don Hiscock > To: Peter Ryner > Cc: andrew uprichard ; DAVID MASSEY < > dave1massey at cs.com>; daveg at online.no ; > triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Thu, May 28, 2020 11:08 am > Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door > latch > > Here's the door pull on an original unrestored long-door TR2. > https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-thtV5fw/0/1694173b/O/i-thtV5fw.jpg > > Don > Saint Louis > 1962 TR3B TSF202L > > On Thu, May 28, 2020 at 11:02 AM Peter Ryner wrote: > > I scanned this from Piggott?s book. From what I?ve found you?ll need to > fashion the fabric covering yourself. Other parts are available. I think > I got mine from TRF. My car isn?t back from the painter yet so I don?t > have a finished picture what I envision on mine. > Good luck > Pete > > *From:* Triumphs *On Behalf Of *andrew > uprichard > *Sent:* Thursday, May 28, 2020 8:14 AM > *To:* 'DAVID MASSEY' ; daveg at online.no; > triumphs at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the > door latch > > Is this what you are asking about? > > Andrew Uprichard > Jackson, Michigan > > *From:* Triumphs *On Behalf Of *DAVID > MASSEY > *Sent:* Thursday, May 28, 2020 7:47 AM > *To:* daveg at online.no; triumphs at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the > door latch > > That's more than what I have. I don't even have the bit of metal that > extends through the door panel. I do have (somewhere) the escutcheons but > other than that I am starting at zero. > > I, too am interested in any information regarding this. > > Dave > > > -----Original Message----- > From: David Griffiths > To: Triumph_send_message > Sent: Thu, May 28, 2020 5:24 am > Subject: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch > Hello all, > > TR3. LO15005/TS10601E > > I would be very grateful if someone could take a close up picture and/or a > description of the way the door-opening strap on the inside of the door > fastens to the door latch. I understand that the strap inner is of tough > leather, about a quarter inch in diameter, but I don?t know how to fasten > it to the latch, which on this car is just a threaded rod sticking out of > the vinyl of the door with an acorn nut on it. On the rod there is a bit of > metal like what you find on a zipper to move it up and down, with ?YKK? on > it. Perhaps it is. The only commercial thing I could find was at Macy?s, > but the pic was so small it didn?t help much: https://macysgarage.com/parts-new.htm. > I have the outer sleeve. > > Thanks, > Dave > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From don.hiscock at gmail.com Thu May 28 11:17:57 2020 From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Thu, 28 May 2020 12:17:57 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch In-Reply-To: <076701d63511$c89c4910$59d4db30$@bell.net> References: <606726595.125945.1590666415052@mail.yahoo.com> <002601d634e9$74b8f0f0$5e2ad2d0$@uprichard.net> <1077381947.701571.1590676888259@mail.yahoo.com> <076701d63511$c89c4910$59d4db30$@bell.net> Message-ID: Here's Macy's door pull kit -- two of 'em, in fact. I hand carried these to TR friends in the UK a couple of years ago, as Mark avoids the hassles around international shipping. https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-4cgcN9b/0/0c68a588/O/i-4cgcN9b.jpg On Thu, May 28, 2020 at 12:03 PM Keith Stewart wrote: > Can?t swear as to originality, but the ones on my 57 TR3 are leather on > the outside but the leather encases a link chain ? with the latch shaft > going through the end link and held in place by a nut while the end link at > the other end is secured by a screw under the escutcheon for the outer > leather strap. > > > > Keith Stewart > > keithstewart at bell.net > > > > > > > > *From:* DAVID MASSEY > *Sent:* May 28, 2020 10:41 AM > *To:* auprichard at uprichard.net; daveg at online.no; triumphs at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the > door latch > > > > Yes. My biggest question is where can I get those parts? Dave says the > inner part is heavy gauge leather. It looks like the outer is thinner, > more supple leather. I have neither. Does anyone sell these parts? > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Thu May 28 13:01:56 2020 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Thu, 28 May 2020 19:01:56 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch In-Reply-To: References: <606726595.125945.1590666415052@mail.yahoo.com> <002601d634e9$74b8f0f0$5e2ad2d0$@uprichard.net> <629795005.740779.1590682707384@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <38761033.831774.1590692516702@mail.yahoo.com> It is in remarkably good shape for a 60+ year old unrestored.? VTR has been talking about a "Survivor" class for unrestored cars.? I'd love to see that one turn up. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Don Hiscock To: DAVID MASSEY Cc: pryner at outlook.com ; auprichard at uprichard.net ; daveg at online.no ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, May 28, 2020 11:55 am Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch I can't say "factory original" for sure, Dave, although it probably is.? I can say "unrestored" for sure. On Thu, May 28, 2020 at 11:18 AM DAVID MASSEY wrote: Wow, that has really drooped over the years.? ;-) I suspect the forward end should have been attached to a screw further forward.? But, factory original is factory original. Thanks for the picture. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Don Hiscock To: Peter Ryner Cc: andrew uprichard ; DAVID MASSEY ; daveg at online.no ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, May 28, 2020 11:08 am Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch Here's the door pull on an original unrestored long-door TR2.https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-thtV5fw/0/1694173b/O/i-thtV5fw.jpg DonSaint Louis1962 TR3B TSF202L On Thu, May 28, 2020 at 11:02 AM Peter Ryner wrote: I scanned this from Piggott?s book.? From what I?ve found you?ll need to fashion the fabric covering yourself.? Other parts are available.? I think I got mine from TRF.? My car isn?t back from the painter yet so I don?t have a finished picture what I envision on mine.Good luck Pete?From: Triumphs On Behalf Ofandrew uprichard Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2020 8:14 AM To: 'DAVID MASSEY' ; daveg at online.no; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch?Is this what you are asking about??Andrew UprichardJackson, Michigan?From: Triumphs On Behalf Of DAVID MASSEY Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2020 7:47 AM To: daveg at online.no; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch?That's more than what I have.? I don't even have the bit of metal that extends through the door panel.? I do have (somewhere) the escutcheons but other than that I am starting at zero. ?I, too am interested in any information regarding this.?Dave??-----Original Message----- From: David Griffiths To: Triumph_send_message Sent: Thu, May 28, 2020 5:24 am Subject: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latchHello all,?TR3. LO15005/TS10601E?I would be very grateful if someone could take a close up picture and/or a description of the way the door-opening strap on the inside of the door fastens to the door latch. I understand that the strap inner is of tough leather, about a quarter inch in diameter, but I don?t know how to fasten it to the latch, which on this car is just a threaded rod sticking out of the vinyl of the door with an acorn nut on it. On the rod there is a bit of metal like what you find on a zipper to move it up and down, with ?YKK? on it. Perhaps it is. The only commercial thing I could find was at Macy?s, but the pic was so small it didn?t help much:https://macysgarage.com/parts-new.htm.I have the outer sleeve. ?Thanks,Dave**triumphs at autox.team.net **?Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.htmlArchive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphshttp://www.team.net/archive?Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From trguy75 at gmail.com Fri May 29 13:00:19 2020 From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen) Date: Fri, 29 May 2020 15:00:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch In-Reply-To: References: <606726595.125945.1590666415052@mail.yahoo.com> <002601d634e9$74b8f0f0$5e2ad2d0$@uprichard.net> <1077381947.701571.1590676888259@mail.yahoo.com> <076701d63511$c89c4910$59d4db30$@bell.net> Message-ID: <019301d635eb$66a0a8c0$33e1fa40$@gmail.com> Are these door pulls just for small mouth TR3? I don?t have them on my TR3A. Thanks Jim Henningsen From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Don Hiscock Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2020 1:18 PM To: Keith Stewart Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch Here's Macy's door pull kit -- two of 'em, in fact. I hand carried these to TR friends in the UK a couple of years ago, as Mark avoids the hassles around international shipping. https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-4cgcN9b/0/0c68a588/O/i-4cgcN9b.jpg On Thu, May 28, 2020 at 12:03 PM Keith Stewart > wrote: Can?t swear as to originality, but the ones on my 57 TR3 are leather on the outside but the leather encases a link chain ? with the latch shaft going through the end link and held in place by a nut while the end link at the other end is secured by a screw under the escutcheon for the outer leather strap. Keith Stewart keithstewart at bell.net From: DAVID MASSEY > Sent: May 28, 2020 10:41 AM To: auprichard at uprichard.net ; daveg at online.no ; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch Yes. My biggest question is where can I get those parts? Dave says the inner part is heavy gauge leather. It looks like the outer is thinner, more supple leather. I have neither. Does anyone sell these parts? ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From keithstewart at bell.net Fri May 29 13:09:02 2020 From: keithstewart at bell.net (Keith Stewart) Date: Fri, 29 May 2020 15:09:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch In-Reply-To: <019301d635eb$66a0a8c0$33e1fa40$@gmail.com> References: <606726595.125945.1590666415052@mail.yahoo.com> <002601d634e9$74b8f0f0$5e2ad2d0$@uprichard.net> <1077381947.701571.1590676888259@mail.yahoo.com> <076701d63511$c89c4910$59d4db30$@bell.net> <019301d635eb$66a0a8c0$33e1fa40$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <182f01d635ec$9dd7d510$d9877f30$@bell.net> Didn?t the 3a go to a pull inside the door pocket and eventually exterior handles as well? Keith From: Jim Henningsen Sent: May 29, 2020 3:00 PM To: 'Don Hiscock' ; 'Keith Stewart' Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch Are these door pulls just for small mouth TR3? I don?t have them on my TR3A. Thanks Jim Henningsen From: Triumphs > On Behalf Of Don Hiscock Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2020 1:18 PM To: Keith Stewart > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch Here's Macy's door pull kit -- two of 'em, in fact. I hand carried these to TR friends in the UK a couple of years ago, as Mark avoids the hassles around international shipping. https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-4cgcN9b/0/0c68a588/O/i-4cgcN9b.jpg On Thu, May 28, 2020 at 12:03 PM Keith Stewart > wrote: Can?t swear as to originality, but the ones on my 57 TR3 are leather on the outside but the leather encases a link chain ? with the latch shaft going through the end link and held in place by a nut while the end link at the other end is secured by a screw under the escutcheon for the outer leather strap. Keith Stewart keithstewart at bell.net From: DAVID MASSEY > Sent: May 28, 2020 10:41 AM To: auprichard at uprichard.net ; daveg at online.no ; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch Yes. My biggest question is where can I get those parts? Dave says the inner part is heavy gauge leather. It looks like the outer is thinner, more supple leather. I have neither. Does anyone sell these parts? ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mmarr at albiontechnical.com Fri May 29 13:11:31 2020 From: mmarr at albiontechnical.com (Michael Marr) Date: Fri, 29 May 2020 19:11:31 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch In-Reply-To: <182f01d635ec$9dd7d510$d9877f30$@bell.net> References: <606726595.125945.1590666415052@mail.yahoo.com> <002601d634e9$74b8f0f0$5e2ad2d0$@uprichard.net> <1077381947.701571.1590676888259@mail.yahoo.com> <076701d63511$c89c4910$59d4db30$@bell.net> <019301d635eb$66a0a8c0$33e1fa40$@gmail.com>, <182f01d635ec$9dd7d510$d9877f30$@bell.net> Message-ID: <132E6ACF-13F2-4542-8D5B-951C758139EB@albiontechnical.com> My 1960 TR3a has external handles and the cable inside the door pocket. Mike Sent from my iPhone On May 29, 2020, at 14:09, Keith Stewart wrote: ? Didn?t the 3a go to a pull inside the door pocket and eventually exterior handles as well? Keith From: Jim Henningsen Sent: May 29, 2020 3:00 PM To: 'Don Hiscock' ; 'Keith Stewart' Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch Are these door pulls just for small mouth TR3? I don?t have them on my TR3A. Thanks Jim Henningsen From: Triumphs > On Behalf Of Don Hiscock Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2020 1:18 PM To: Keith Stewart > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch Here's Macy's door pull kit -- two of 'em, in fact. I hand carried these to TR friends in the UK a couple of years ago, as Mark avoids the hassles around international shipping. https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-4cgcN9b/0/0c68a588/O/i-4cgcN9b.jpg On Thu, May 28, 2020 at 12:03 PM Keith Stewart > wrote: Can?t swear as to originality, but the ones on my 57 TR3 are leather on the outside but the leather encases a link chain ? with the latch shaft going through the end link and held in place by a nut while the end link at the other end is secured by a screw under the escutcheon for the outer leather strap. Keith Stewart keithstewart at bell.net From: DAVID MASSEY > Sent: May 28, 2020 10:41 AM To: auprichard at uprichard.net; daveg at online.no; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch Yes. My biggest question is where can I get those parts? Dave says the inner part is heavy gauge leather. It looks like the outer is thinner, more supple leather. I have neither. Does anyone sell these parts? ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=_vrQUCNMwP67bBomHt0MEYqlHySdx4FdSIr-FhHoJps&e= Archive: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_pipermail_triumphs&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=EZup7dQhauIKso4ki3swpMQtRdtBSO3GPCT38_85THk&e= https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_archive&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=xzTZQ5fOuA07cAI_kIzXP_AdXoGkktis8E0DAeQKHio&e= Unsubscribe/Manage: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_mailman_options_triumphs_mmarr-40albiontechnical.com&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=BHMQA_dlR6Mn34pbQLmAEUTEQ5s8gsnq1UurWX-2P1I&e= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From trguy75 at gmail.com Fri May 29 13:35:44 2020 From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen) Date: Fri, 29 May 2020 15:35:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch In-Reply-To: <132E6ACF-13F2-4542-8D5B-951C758139EB@albiontechnical.com> References: <606726595.125945.1590666415052@mail.yahoo.com> <002601d634e9$74b8f0f0$5e2ad2d0$@uprichard.net> <1077381947.701571.1590676888259@mail.yahoo.com> <076701d63511$c89c4910$59d4db30$@bell.net> <019301d635eb$66a0a8c0$33e1fa40$@gmail.com>, <182f01d635ec$9dd7d510$d9877f30$@bell.net> <132E6ACF-13F2-4542-8D5B-951C758139EB@albiontechnical.com> Message-ID: <01c901d635f0$58e3de00$0aab9a00$@gmail.com> Same as mine. Thanks. After all these years, still learning something new on a Triumph jim From: Michael Marr Sent: Friday, May 29, 2020 3:12 PM To: Keith Stewart Cc: Jim Henningsen ; Don Hiscock ; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch My 1960 TR3a has external handles and the cable inside the door pocket. Mike Sent from my iPhone On May 29, 2020, at 14:09, Keith Stewart > wrote: ? Didn?t the 3a go to a pull inside the door pocket and eventually exterior handles as well? Keith From: Jim Henningsen > Sent: May 29, 2020 3:00 PM To: 'Don Hiscock' >; 'Keith Stewart' > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch Are these door pulls just for small mouth TR3? I don?t have them on my TR3A. Thanks Jim Henningsen From: Triumphs > On Behalf Of Don Hiscock Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2020 1:18 PM To: Keith Stewart > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch Here's Macy's door pull kit -- two of 'em, in fact. I hand carried these to TR friends in the UK a couple of years ago, as Mark avoids the hassles around international shipping. https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-4cgcN9b/0/0c68a588/O/i-4cgcN9b.jpg On Thu, May 28, 2020 at 12:03 PM Keith Stewart > wrote: Can?t swear as to originality, but the ones on my 57 TR3 are leather on the outside but the leather encases a link chain ? with the latch shaft going through the end link and held in place by a nut while the end link at the other end is secured by a screw under the escutcheon for the outer leather strap. Keith Stewart keithstewart at bell.net From: DAVID MASSEY > Sent: May 28, 2020 10:41 AM To: auprichard at uprichard.net ; daveg at online.no ; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch Yes. My biggest question is where can I get those parts? Dave says the inner part is heavy gauge leather. It looks like the outer is thinner, more supple leather. I have neither. Does anyone sell these parts? ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html &d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=_vrQUCNMwP67bBomHt0MEYqlHySdx4FdSIr-FhHoJps&e= Archive: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_pipermail_triumphs &d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=EZup7dQhauIKso4ki3swpMQtRdtBSO3GPCT38_85THk&e= https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_archive &d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=xzTZQ5fOuA07cAI_kIzXP_AdXoGkktis8E0DAeQKHio&e= Unsubscribe/Manage: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_mailman_options_triumphs_mmarr-40albiontechnical.com &d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=BHMQA_dlR6Mn34pbQLmAEUTEQ5s8gsnq1UurWX-2P1I&e= -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From greg at gregoryd.com Fri May 29 13:41:12 2020 From: greg at gregoryd.com (Greg) Date: Fri, 29 May 2020 15:41:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] Randall Young In-Reply-To: References: <003f01d623b2$30bf1bb0$923d5310$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: From: Triumphs on behalf of Geo Hahn Date: Wednesday, May 6, 2020 at 11:01 AM To: andrew uprichard Cc: Triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] Randall Young Andrew - He logged into the TR Experience as recently as 4/28 (one week ago): Yeah, I also worry about anyone I stop hearing from. Geo On Wed, May 6, 2020 at 7:25 AM andrew uprichard wrote: Anyone heard from Randall recently? Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/greg at gregoryd.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 199748 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.png Type: image/png Size: 799103 bytes Desc: not available URL: From forzion7 at gmail.com Fri May 29 14:19:32 2020 From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander) Date: Fri, 29 May 2020 16:19:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch In-Reply-To: <01c901d635f0$58e3de00$0aab9a00$@gmail.com> References: <606726595.125945.1590666415052@mail.yahoo.com> <002601d634e9$74b8f0f0$5e2ad2d0$@uprichard.net> <1077381947.701571.1590676888259@mail.yahoo.com> <076701d63511$c89c4910$59d4db30$@bell.net> <019301d635eb$66a0a8c0$33e1fa40$@gmail.com> <182f01d635ec$9dd7d510$d9877f30$@bell.net> <132E6ACF-13F2-4542-8D5B-951C758139EB@albiontechnical.com> <01c901d635f0$58e3de00$0aab9a00$@gmail.com> Message-ID: And I don't think they make replacements for the internal ones, either. On Fri, May 29, 2020, 3:37 PM Jim Henningsen wrote: > Same as mine. Thanks. After all these years, still learning something > new on a Triumph jim > > > > *From:* Michael Marr > *Sent:* Friday, May 29, 2020 3:12 PM > *To:* Keith Stewart > *Cc:* Jim Henningsen ; Don Hiscock < > don.hiscock at gmail.com>; triumphs at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the > door latch > > > > My 1960 TR3a has external handles and the cable inside the door pocket. > > > > Mike > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > On May 29, 2020, at 14:09, Keith Stewart wrote: > > ? > > Didn?t the 3a go to a pull inside the door pocket and eventually exterior > handles as well? > > > > Keith > > > > *From:* Jim Henningsen > *Sent:* May 29, 2020 3:00 PM > *To:* 'Don Hiscock' ; 'Keith Stewart' < > keithstewart at bell.net> > *Cc:* triumphs at autox.team.net > *Subject:* RE: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the > door latch > > > > Are these door pulls just for small mouth TR3? I don?t have them on my > TR3A. Thanks Jim Henningsen > > > > *From:* Triumphs *On Behalf Of *Don > Hiscock > *Sent:* Thursday, May 28, 2020 1:18 PM > *To:* Keith Stewart > *Cc:* triumphs at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the > door latch > > > > Here's Macy's door pull kit -- two of 'em, in fact. I hand carried these > to TR friends in the UK a couple of years ago, as Mark avoids the hassles > around international shipping. > > https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-4cgcN9b/0/0c68a588/O/i-4cgcN9b.jpg > > > > > > > On Thu, May 28, 2020 at 12:03 PM Keith Stewart > wrote: > > Can?t swear as to originality, but the ones on my 57 TR3 are leather on > the outside but the leather encases a link chain ? with the latch shaft > going through the end link and held in place by a nut while the end link at > the other end is secured by a screw under the escutcheon for the outer > leather strap. > > > > Keith Stewart > > keithstewart at bell.net > > > > > > > > *From:* DAVID MASSEY > *Sent:* May 28, 2020 10:41 AM > *To:* auprichard at uprichard.net; daveg at online.no; triumphs at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the > door latch > > > > Yes. My biggest question is where can I get those parts? Dave says the > inner part is heavy gauge leather. It looks like the outer is thinner, > more supple leather. I have neither. Does anyone sell these parts? > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: > https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=_vrQUCNMwP67bBomHt0MEYqlHySdx4FdSIr-FhHoJps&e= > Archive: > https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_pipermail_triumphs&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=EZup7dQhauIKso4ki3swpMQtRdtBSO3GPCT38_85THk&e= > > https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_archive&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=xzTZQ5fOuA07cAI_kIzXP_AdXoGkktis8E0DAeQKHio&e= > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_mailman_options_triumphs_mmarr-40albiontechnical.com&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=BHMQA_dlR6Mn34pbQLmAEUTEQ5s8gsnq1UurWX-2P1I&e= > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From auprichard at uprichard.net Fri May 29 15:21:31 2020 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (andrew uprichard) Date: Fri, 29 May 2020 17:21:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch In-Reply-To: References: <606726595.125945.1590666415052@mail.yahoo.com> <002601d634e9$74b8f0f0$5e2ad2d0$@uprichard.net> <1077381947.701571.1590676888259@mail.yahoo.com> <076701d63511$c89c4910$59d4db30$@bell.net> <019301d635eb$66a0a8c0$33e1fa40$@gmail.com> <182f01d635ec$9dd7d510$d9877f30$@bell.net> <132E6ACF-13F2-4542-8D5B-951C758139EB@albiontechnical.com> <01c901d635f0$58e3de00$0aab9a00$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <007101d635ff$22793630$676ba290$@uprichard.net> Bicycle brake cables????????. From: Triumphs On Behalf Of David Friedlander Sent: Friday, May 29, 2020 4:20 PM To: Jim Henningsen Cc: Keith Stewart ; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch And I don't think they make replacements for the internal ones, either. On Fri, May 29, 2020, 3:37 PM Jim Henningsen > wrote: Same as mine. Thanks. After all these years, still learning something new on a Triumph jim From: Michael Marr > Sent: Friday, May 29, 2020 3:12 PM To: Keith Stewart > Cc: Jim Henningsen >; Don Hiscock >; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch My 1960 TR3a has external handles and the cable inside the door pocket. Mike Sent from my iPhone On May 29, 2020, at 14:09, Keith Stewart > wrote: ? Didn?t the 3a go to a pull inside the door pocket and eventually exterior handles as well? Keith From: Jim Henningsen > Sent: May 29, 2020 3:00 PM To: 'Don Hiscock' >; 'Keith Stewart' > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch Are these door pulls just for small mouth TR3? I don?t have them on my TR3A. Thanks Jim Henningsen From: Triumphs > On Behalf Of Don Hiscock Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2020 1:18 PM To: Keith Stewart > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch Here's Macy's door pull kit -- two of 'em, in fact. I hand carried these to TR friends in the UK a couple of years ago, as Mark avoids the hassles around international shipping. https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-4cgcN9b/0/0c68a588/O/i-4cgcN9b.jpg On Thu, May 28, 2020 at 12:03 PM Keith Stewart > wrote: Can?t swear as to originality, but the ones on my 57 TR3 are leather on the outside but the leather encases a link chain ? with the latch shaft going through the end link and held in place by a nut while the end link at the other end is secured by a screw under the escutcheon for the outer leather strap. Keith Stewart keithstewart at bell.net From: DAVID MASSEY > Sent: May 28, 2020 10:41 AM To: auprichard at uprichard.net ; daveg at online.no ; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch Yes. My biggest question is where can I get those parts? Dave says the inner part is heavy gauge leather. It looks like the outer is thinner, more supple leather. I have neither. Does anyone sell these parts? ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html &d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=_vrQUCNMwP67bBomHt0MEYqlHySdx4FdSIr-FhHoJps&e= Archive: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_pipermail_triumphs &d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=EZup7dQhauIKso4ki3swpMQtRdtBSO3GPCT38_85THk&e= https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_archive &d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=xzTZQ5fOuA07cAI_kIzXP_AdXoGkktis8E0DAeQKHio&e= Unsubscribe/Manage: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_mailman_options_triumphs_mmarr-40albiontechnical.com &d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=BHMQA_dlR6Mn34pbQLmAEUTEQ5s8gsnq1UurWX-2P1I&e= ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From forzion7 at gmail.com Fri May 29 15:25:28 2020 From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander) Date: Fri, 29 May 2020 17:25:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch In-Reply-To: <007101d635ff$22793630$676ba290$@uprichard.net> References: <606726595.125945.1590666415052@mail.yahoo.com> <002601d634e9$74b8f0f0$5e2ad2d0$@uprichard.net> <1077381947.701571.1590676888259@mail.yahoo.com> <076701d63511$c89c4910$59d4db30$@bell.net> <019301d635eb$66a0a8c0$33e1fa40$@gmail.com> <182f01d635ec$9dd7d510$d9877f30$@bell.net> <132E6ACF-13F2-4542-8D5B-951C758139EB@albiontechnical.com> <01c901d635f0$58e3de00$0aab9a00$@gmail.com> <007101d635ff$22793630$676ba290$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: Cool idea, Andrew! I haven't attempted it yet but I imagine working inside the door to attach cables might be a bit more challenging than working connections to the out-the-panel version of the TR2's/3's.... Dave On Fri, May 29, 2020 at 5:21 PM andrew uprichard wrote: > Bicycle brake cables????????. > > > > *From:* Triumphs *On Behalf Of *David > Friedlander > *Sent:* Friday, May 29, 2020 4:20 PM > *To:* Jim Henningsen > *Cc:* Keith Stewart ; triumphs at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the > door latch > > > > And I don't think they make replacements for the internal ones, either. > > > > On Fri, May 29, 2020, 3:37 PM Jim Henningsen wrote: > > Same as mine. Thanks. After all these years, still learning something > new on a Triumph jim > > > > *From:* Michael Marr > *Sent:* Friday, May 29, 2020 3:12 PM > *To:* Keith Stewart > *Cc:* Jim Henningsen ; Don Hiscock < > don.hiscock at gmail.com>; triumphs at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the > door latch > > > > My 1960 TR3a has external handles and the cable inside the door pocket. > > > > Mike > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > On May 29, 2020, at 14:09, Keith Stewart wrote: > > ? > > Didn?t the 3a go to a pull inside the door pocket and eventually exterior > handles as well? > > > > Keith > > > > *From:* Jim Henningsen > *Sent:* May 29, 2020 3:00 PM > *To:* 'Don Hiscock' ; 'Keith Stewart' < > keithstewart at bell.net> > *Cc:* triumphs at autox.team.net > *Subject:* RE: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the > door latch > > > > Are these door pulls just for small mouth TR3? I don?t have them on my > TR3A. Thanks Jim Henningsen > > > > *From:* Triumphs *On Behalf Of *Don > Hiscock > *Sent:* Thursday, May 28, 2020 1:18 PM > *To:* Keith Stewart > *Cc:* triumphs at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the > door latch > > > > Here's Macy's door pull kit -- two of 'em, in fact. I hand carried these > to TR friends in the UK a couple of years ago, as Mark avoids the hassles > around international shipping. > > https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-4cgcN9b/0/0c68a588/O/i-4cgcN9b.jpg > > > > > > > On Thu, May 28, 2020 at 12:03 PM Keith Stewart > wrote: > > Can?t swear as to originality, but the ones on my 57 TR3 are leather on > the outside but the leather encases a link chain ? with the latch shaft > going through the end link and held in place by a nut while the end link at > the other end is secured by a screw under the escutcheon for the outer > leather strap. > > > > Keith Stewart > > keithstewart at bell.net > > > > > > > > *From:* DAVID MASSEY > *Sent:* May 28, 2020 10:41 AM > *To:* auprichard at uprichard.net; daveg at online.no; triumphs at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the > door latch > > > > Yes. My biggest question is where can I get those parts? Dave says the > inner part is heavy gauge leather. It looks like the outer is thinner, > more supple leather. I have neither. Does anyone sell these parts? > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: > https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=_vrQUCNMwP67bBomHt0MEYqlHySdx4FdSIr-FhHoJps&e= > Archive: > https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_pipermail_triumphs&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=EZup7dQhauIKso4ki3swpMQtRdtBSO3GPCT38_85THk&e= > > https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_archive&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=xzTZQ5fOuA07cAI_kIzXP_AdXoGkktis8E0DAeQKHio&e= > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_mailman_options_triumphs_mmarr-40albiontechnical.com&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=BHMQA_dlR6Mn34pbQLmAEUTEQ5s8gsnq1UurWX-2P1I&e= > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From auprichard at uprichard.net Fri May 29 15:27:57 2020 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (andrew uprichard) Date: Fri, 29 May 2020 17:27:57 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch In-Reply-To: References: <606726595.125945.1590666415052@mail.yahoo.com> <002601d634e9$74b8f0f0$5e2ad2d0$@uprichard.net> <1077381947.701571.1590676888259@mail.yahoo.com> <076701d63511$c89c4910$59d4db30$@bell.net> <019301d635eb$66a0a8c0$33e1fa40$@gmail.com> <182f01d635ec$9dd7d510$d9877f30$@bell.net> <132E6ACF-13F2-4542-8D5B-951C758139EB@albiontechnical.com> <01c901d635f0$58e3de00$0aab9a00$@gmail.com> <007101d635ff$22793630$676ba290$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <010601d63600$08932810$19b97830$@uprichard.net> The end with the whatjamacallit goes inside the door and the cut end has a trunnion fitting. It?s what I use on all my 3As and Bs. I?ll see if I can find a pic. Andrew From: David Friedlander Sent: Friday, May 29, 2020 5:25 PM To: andrew uprichard Cc: Jim Henningsen ; Keith Stewart ; TR3 Triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch Cool idea, Andrew! I haven't attempted it yet but I imagine working inside the door to attach cables might be a bit more challenging than working connections to the out-the-panel version of the TR2's/3's.... Dave On Fri, May 29, 2020 at 5:21 PM andrew uprichard > wrote: Bicycle brake cables????????. From: Triumphs > On Behalf Of David Friedlander Sent: Friday, May 29, 2020 4:20 PM To: Jim Henningsen > Cc: Keith Stewart >; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch And I don't think they make replacements for the internal ones, either. On Fri, May 29, 2020, 3:37 PM Jim Henningsen > wrote: Same as mine. Thanks. After all these years, still learning something new on a Triumph jim From: Michael Marr > Sent: Friday, May 29, 2020 3:12 PM To: Keith Stewart > Cc: Jim Henningsen >; Don Hiscock >; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch My 1960 TR3a has external handles and the cable inside the door pocket. Mike Sent from my iPhone On May 29, 2020, at 14:09, Keith Stewart > wrote: ? Didn?t the 3a go to a pull inside the door pocket and eventually exterior handles as well? Keith From: Jim Henningsen > Sent: May 29, 2020 3:00 PM To: 'Don Hiscock' >; 'Keith Stewart' > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch Are these door pulls just for small mouth TR3? I don?t have them on my TR3A. Thanks Jim Henningsen From: Triumphs > On Behalf Of Don Hiscock Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2020 1:18 PM To: Keith Stewart > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch Here's Macy's door pull kit -- two of 'em, in fact. I hand carried these to TR friends in the UK a couple of years ago, as Mark avoids the hassles around international shipping. https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-4cgcN9b/0/0c68a588/O/i-4cgcN9b.jpg On Thu, May 28, 2020 at 12:03 PM Keith Stewart > wrote: Can?t swear as to originality, but the ones on my 57 TR3 are leather on the outside but the leather encases a link chain ? with the latch shaft going through the end link and held in place by a nut while the end link at the other end is secured by a screw under the escutcheon for the outer leather strap. Keith Stewart keithstewart at bell.net From: DAVID MASSEY > Sent: May 28, 2020 10:41 AM To: auprichard at uprichard.net ; daveg at online.no ; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch Yes. My biggest question is where can I get those parts? Dave says the inner part is heavy gauge leather. It looks like the outer is thinner, more supple leather. I have neither. Does anyone sell these parts? ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html &d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=_vrQUCNMwP67bBomHt0MEYqlHySdx4FdSIr-FhHoJps&e= Archive: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_pipermail_triumphs &d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=EZup7dQhauIKso4ki3swpMQtRdtBSO3GPCT38_85THk&e= https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_archive &d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=xzTZQ5fOuA07cAI_kIzXP_AdXoGkktis8E0DAeQKHio&e= Unsubscribe/Manage: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_mailman_options_triumphs_mmarr-40albiontechnical.com &d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=BHMQA_dlR6Mn34pbQLmAEUTEQ5s8gsnq1UurWX-2P1I&e= ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From don.hiscock at gmail.com Fri May 29 15:29:26 2020 From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Fri, 29 May 2020 16:29:26 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch In-Reply-To: References: <606726595.125945.1590666415052@mail.yahoo.com> <002601d634e9$74b8f0f0$5e2ad2d0$@uprichard.net> <1077381947.701571.1590676888259@mail.yahoo.com> <076701d63511$c89c4910$59d4db30$@bell.net> <019301d635eb$66a0a8c0$33e1fa40$@gmail.com> <182f01d635ec$9dd7d510$d9877f30$@bell.net> <132E6ACF-13F2-4542-8D5B-951C758139EB@albiontechnical.com> <01c901d635f0$58e3de00$0aab9a00$@gmail.com> Message-ID: The later inside-the-pocket door pull cables are available, and bicycle cables, as Andrew notes, can easily be adapted. Rimmers has them -- as an inner/outer set and either one separately. I'm sure the usual suspects do too. https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-557185 On Fri, May 29, 2020 at 3:22 PM David Friedlander wrote: > And I don't think they make replacements for the internal ones, either. > > On Fri, May 29, 2020, 3:37 PM Jim Henningsen wrote: > >> Same as mine. Thanks. After all these years, still learning something >> new on a Triumph jim >> >> >> >> *From:* Michael Marr >> *Sent:* Friday, May 29, 2020 3:12 PM >> *To:* Keith Stewart >> *Cc:* Jim Henningsen ; Don Hiscock < >> don.hiscock at gmail.com>; triumphs at autox.team.net >> *Subject:* Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the >> door latch >> >> >> >> My 1960 TR3a has external handles and the cable inside the door pocket. >> >> >> >> Mike >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> >> >> On May 29, 2020, at 14:09, Keith Stewart wrote: >> >> ? >> >> Didn?t the 3a go to a pull inside the door pocket and eventually exterior >> handles as well? >> >> >> >> Keith >> >> >> >> *From:* Jim Henningsen >> *Sent:* May 29, 2020 3:00 PM >> *To:* 'Don Hiscock' ; 'Keith Stewart' < >> keithstewart at bell.net> >> *Cc:* triumphs at autox.team.net >> *Subject:* RE: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the >> door latch >> >> >> >> Are these door pulls just for small mouth TR3? I don?t have them on my >> TR3A. Thanks Jim Henningsen >> >> >> >> *From:* Triumphs *On Behalf Of *Don >> Hiscock >> *Sent:* Thursday, May 28, 2020 1:18 PM >> *To:* Keith Stewart >> *Cc:* triumphs at autox.team.net >> *Subject:* Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the >> door latch >> >> >> >> Here's Macy's door pull kit -- two of 'em, in fact. I hand carried these >> to TR friends in the UK a couple of years ago, as Mark avoids the hassles >> around international shipping. >> >> https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-4cgcN9b/0/0c68a588/O/i-4cgcN9b.jpg >> >> >> >> >> >> >> On Thu, May 28, 2020 at 12:03 PM Keith Stewart >> wrote: >> >> Can?t swear as to originality, but the ones on my 57 TR3 are leather on >> the outside but the leather encases a link chain ? with the latch shaft >> going through the end link and held in place by a nut while the end link at >> the other end is secured by a screw under the escutcheon for the outer >> leather strap. >> >> >> >> Keith Stewart >> >> keithstewart at bell.net >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> *From:* DAVID MASSEY >> *Sent:* May 28, 2020 10:41 AM >> *To:* auprichard at uprichard.net; daveg at online.no; triumphs at autox.team.net >> *Subject:* Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the >> door latch >> >> >> >> Yes. My biggest question is where can I get those parts? Dave says the >> inner part is heavy gauge leather. It looks like the outer is thinner, >> more supple leather. I have neither. Does anyone sell these parts? >> >> >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs >> >> http://www.team.net/archive >> >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com >> >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: >> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=_vrQUCNMwP67bBomHt0MEYqlHySdx4FdSIr-FhHoJps&e= >> Archive: >> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_pipermail_triumphs&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=EZup7dQhauIKso4ki3swpMQtRdtBSO3GPCT38_85THk&e= >> >> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_archive&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=xzTZQ5fOuA07cAI_kIzXP_AdXoGkktis8E0DAeQKHio&e= >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_mailman_options_triumphs_mmarr-40albiontechnical.com&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=BHMQA_dlR6Mn34pbQLmAEUTEQ5s8gsnq1UurWX-2P1I&e= >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs >> http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com >> > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From auprichard at uprichard.net Fri May 29 15:30:01 2020 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (andrew uprichard) Date: Fri, 29 May 2020 17:30:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch References: <606726595.125945.1590666415052@mail.yahoo.com> <002601d634e9$74b8f0f0$5e2ad2d0$@uprichard.net> <1077381947.701571.1590676888259@mail.yahoo.com> <076701d63511$c89c4910$59d4db30$@bell.net> <019301d635eb$66a0a8c0$33e1fa40$@gmail.com> <182f01d635ec$9dd7d510$d9877f30$@bell.net> <132E6ACF-13F2-4542-8D5B-951C758139EB@albiontechnical.com> <01c901d635f0$58e3de00$0aab9a00$@gmail.com> <007101d635ff$22793630$676ba290$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <013201d63600$51837d40$f48a77c0$@uprichard.net> Here you go From: andrew uprichard Sent: Friday, May 29, 2020 5:28 PM To: 'David Friedlander' Cc: 'Jim Henningsen' ; 'Keith Stewart' ; 'TR3 Triumphs' Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch The end with the whatjamacallit goes inside the door and the cut end has a trunnion fitting. It?s what I use on all my 3As and Bs. I?ll see if I can find a pic. Andrew From: David Friedlander > Sent: Friday, May 29, 2020 5:25 PM To: andrew uprichard > Cc: Jim Henningsen >; Keith Stewart >; TR3 Triumphs > Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch Cool idea, Andrew! I haven't attempted it yet but I imagine working inside the door to attach cables might be a bit more challenging than working connections to the out-the-panel version of the TR2's/3's.... Dave On Fri, May 29, 2020 at 5:21 PM andrew uprichard > wrote: Bicycle brake cables????????. From: Triumphs > On Behalf Of David Friedlander Sent: Friday, May 29, 2020 4:20 PM To: Jim Henningsen > Cc: Keith Stewart >; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch And I don't think they make replacements for the internal ones, either. On Fri, May 29, 2020, 3:37 PM Jim Henningsen > wrote: Same as mine. Thanks. After all these years, still learning something new on a Triumph jim From: Michael Marr > Sent: Friday, May 29, 2020 3:12 PM To: Keith Stewart > Cc: Jim Henningsen >; Don Hiscock >; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch My 1960 TR3a has external handles and the cable inside the door pocket. Mike Sent from my iPhone On May 29, 2020, at 14:09, Keith Stewart > wrote: ? Didn?t the 3a go to a pull inside the door pocket and eventually exterior handles as well? Keith From: Jim Henningsen > Sent: May 29, 2020 3:00 PM To: 'Don Hiscock' >; 'Keith Stewart' > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch Are these door pulls just for small mouth TR3? I don?t have them on my TR3A. Thanks Jim Henningsen From: Triumphs > On Behalf Of Don Hiscock Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2020 1:18 PM To: Keith Stewart > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch Here's Macy's door pull kit -- two of 'em, in fact. I hand carried these to TR friends in the UK a couple of years ago, as Mark avoids the hassles around international shipping. https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-4cgcN9b/0/0c68a588/O/i-4cgcN9b.jpg On Thu, May 28, 2020 at 12:03 PM Keith Stewart > wrote: Can?t swear as to originality, but the ones on my 57 TR3 are leather on the outside but the leather encases a link chain ? with the latch shaft going through the end link and held in place by a nut while the end link at the other end is secured by a screw under the escutcheon for the outer leather strap. Keith Stewart keithstewart at bell.net From: DAVID MASSEY > Sent: May 28, 2020 10:41 AM To: auprichard at uprichard.net ; daveg at online.no ; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch Yes. My biggest question is where can I get those parts? Dave says the inner part is heavy gauge leather. It looks like the outer is thinner, more supple leather. I have neither. Does anyone sell these parts? ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html &d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=_vrQUCNMwP67bBomHt0MEYqlHySdx4FdSIr-FhHoJps&e= Archive: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_pipermail_triumphs &d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=EZup7dQhauIKso4ki3swpMQtRdtBSO3GPCT38_85THk&e= https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_archive &d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=xzTZQ5fOuA07cAI_kIzXP_AdXoGkktis8E0DAeQKHio&e= Unsubscribe/Manage: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_mailman_options_triumphs_mmarr-40albiontechnical.com &d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=BHMQA_dlR6Mn34pbQLmAEUTEQ5s8gsnq1UurWX-2P1I&e= ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: remember the bicycle cable.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 708070 bytes Desc: not available URL: From don.hiscock at gmail.com Fri May 29 15:30:54 2020 From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Fri, 29 May 2020 16:30:54 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch In-Reply-To: References: <606726595.125945.1590666415052@mail.yahoo.com> <002601d634e9$74b8f0f0$5e2ad2d0$@uprichard.net> <1077381947.701571.1590676888259@mail.yahoo.com> <076701d63511$c89c4910$59d4db30$@bell.net> <019301d635eb$66a0a8c0$33e1fa40$@gmail.com> <182f01d635ec$9dd7d510$d9877f30$@bell.net> <132E6ACF-13F2-4542-8D5B-951C758139EB@albiontechnical.com> <01c901d635f0$58e3de00$0aab9a00$@gmail.com> <007101d635ff$22793630$676ba290$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: Attachment is trivial, Dave. They're fitted ;prior to the door panels going on. On Fri, May 29, 2020 at 4:29 PM David Friedlander wrote: > Cool idea, Andrew! I haven't attempted it yet but I imagine working inside > the door to attach cables might be a bit more challenging than working > connections to the out-the-panel version of the TR2's/3's.... > > Dave > > On Fri, May 29, 2020 at 5:21 PM andrew uprichard > wrote: > >> Bicycle brake cables????????. >> >> >> >> *From:* Triumphs *On Behalf Of *David >> Friedlander >> *Sent:* Friday, May 29, 2020 4:20 PM >> *To:* Jim Henningsen >> *Cc:* Keith Stewart ; triumphs at autox.team.net >> *Subject:* Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the >> door latch >> >> >> >> And I don't think they make replacements for the internal ones, either. >> >> >> >> On Fri, May 29, 2020, 3:37 PM Jim Henningsen wrote: >> >> Same as mine. Thanks. After all these years, still learning something >> new on a Triumph jim >> >> >> >> *From:* Michael Marr >> *Sent:* Friday, May 29, 2020 3:12 PM >> *To:* Keith Stewart >> *Cc:* Jim Henningsen ; Don Hiscock < >> don.hiscock at gmail.com>; triumphs at autox.team.net >> *Subject:* Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the >> door latch >> >> >> >> My 1960 TR3a has external handles and the cable inside the door pocket. >> >> >> >> Mike >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> >> >> On May 29, 2020, at 14:09, Keith Stewart wrote: >> >> ? >> >> Didn?t the 3a go to a pull inside the door pocket and eventually exterior >> handles as well? >> >> >> >> Keith >> >> >> >> *From:* Jim Henningsen >> *Sent:* May 29, 2020 3:00 PM >> *To:* 'Don Hiscock' ; 'Keith Stewart' < >> keithstewart at bell.net> >> *Cc:* triumphs at autox.team.net >> *Subject:* RE: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the >> door latch >> >> >> >> Are these door pulls just for small mouth TR3? I don?t have them on my >> TR3A. Thanks Jim Henningsen >> >> >> >> *From:* Triumphs *On Behalf Of *Don >> Hiscock >> *Sent:* Thursday, May 28, 2020 1:18 PM >> *To:* Keith Stewart >> *Cc:* triumphs at autox.team.net >> *Subject:* Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the >> door latch >> >> >> >> Here's Macy's door pull kit -- two of 'em, in fact. I hand carried these >> to TR friends in the UK a couple of years ago, as Mark avoids the hassles >> around international shipping. >> >> https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-4cgcN9b/0/0c68a588/O/i-4cgcN9b.jpg >> >> >> >> >> >> >> On Thu, May 28, 2020 at 12:03 PM Keith Stewart >> wrote: >> >> Can?t swear as to originality, but the ones on my 57 TR3 are leather on >> the outside but the leather encases a link chain ? with the latch shaft >> going through the end link and held in place by a nut while the end link at >> the other end is secured by a screw under the escutcheon for the outer >> leather strap. >> >> >> >> Keith Stewart >> >> keithstewart at bell.net >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> *From:* DAVID MASSEY >> *Sent:* May 28, 2020 10:41 AM >> *To:* auprichard at uprichard.net; daveg at online.no; triumphs at autox.team.net >> *Subject:* Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the >> door latch >> >> >> >> Yes. My biggest question is where can I get those parts? Dave says the >> inner part is heavy gauge leather. It looks like the outer is thinner, >> more supple leather. I have neither. Does anyone sell these parts? >> >> >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs >> >> http://www.team.net/archive >> >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com >> >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: >> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=_vrQUCNMwP67bBomHt0MEYqlHySdx4FdSIr-FhHoJps&e= >> Archive: >> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_pipermail_triumphs&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=EZup7dQhauIKso4ki3swpMQtRdtBSO3GPCT38_85THk&e= >> >> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_archive&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=xzTZQ5fOuA07cAI_kIzXP_AdXoGkktis8E0DAeQKHio&e= >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_mailman_options_triumphs_mmarr-40albiontechnical.com&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=BHMQA_dlR6Mn34pbQLmAEUTEQ5s8gsnq1UurWX-2P1I&e= >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs >> http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From don.hiscock at gmail.com Fri May 29 15:51:45 2020 From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Fri, 29 May 2020 16:51:45 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch In-Reply-To: <013201d63600$51837d40$f48a77c0$@uprichard.net> References: <606726595.125945.1590666415052@mail.yahoo.com> <002601d634e9$74b8f0f0$5e2ad2d0$@uprichard.net> <1077381947.701571.1590676888259@mail.yahoo.com> <076701d63511$c89c4910$59d4db30$@bell.net> <019301d635eb$66a0a8c0$33e1fa40$@gmail.com> <182f01d635ec$9dd7d510$d9877f30$@bell.net> <132E6ACF-13F2-4542-8D5B-951C758139EB@albiontechnical.com> <01c901d635f0$58e3de00$0aab9a00$@gmail.com> <007101d635ff$22793630$676ba290$@uprichard.net> <013201d63600$51837d40$f48a77c0$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: I believe the whatjamacallit fixed end of the inner wire of a Bowden cable assembly is called a nipple, Andrew. On Fri, May 29, 2020 at 4:37 PM andrew uprichard wrote: > Here you go > > > > *From:* andrew uprichard > *Sent:* Friday, May 29, 2020 5:28 PM > *To:* 'David Friedlander' > *Cc:* 'Jim Henningsen' ; 'Keith Stewart' < > keithstewart at bell.net>; 'TR3 Triumphs' > *Subject:* RE: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the > door latch > > > > The end with the whatjamacallit goes inside the door and the cut end has a > trunnion fitting. It?s what I use on all my 3As and Bs. I?ll see if I can > find a pic. > > > > Andrew > > > > *From:* David Friedlander > *Sent:* Friday, May 29, 2020 5:25 PM > *To:* andrew uprichard > *Cc:* Jim Henningsen ; Keith Stewart < > keithstewart at bell.net>; TR3 Triumphs > *Subject:* Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the > door latch > > > > Cool idea, Andrew! I haven't attempted it yet but I imagine working inside > > the door to attach cables might be a bit more challenging than working > > connections to the out-the-panel version of the TR2's/3's.... > > > > Dave > > > > On Fri, May 29, 2020 at 5:21 PM andrew uprichard > wrote: > > Bicycle brake cables????????. > > > > *From:* Triumphs *On Behalf Of *David > Friedlander > *Sent:* Friday, May 29, 2020 4:20 PM > *To:* Jim Henningsen > *Cc:* Keith Stewart ; triumphs at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the > door latch > > > > And I don't think they make replacements for the internal ones, either. > > > > On Fri, May 29, 2020, 3:37 PM Jim Henningsen wrote: > > Same as mine. Thanks. After all these years, still learning something > new on a Triumph jim > > > > *From:* Michael Marr > *Sent:* Friday, May 29, 2020 3:12 PM > *To:* Keith Stewart > *Cc:* Jim Henningsen ; Don Hiscock < > don.hiscock at gmail.com>; triumphs at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the > door latch > > > > My 1960 TR3a has external handles and the cable inside the door pocket. > > > > Mike > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > On May 29, 2020, at 14:09, Keith Stewart wrote: > > ? > > Didn?t the 3a go to a pull inside the door pocket and eventually exterior > handles as well? > > > > Keith > > > > *From:* Jim Henningsen > *Sent:* May 29, 2020 3:00 PM > *To:* 'Don Hiscock' ; 'Keith Stewart' < > keithstewart at bell.net> > *Cc:* triumphs at autox.team.net > *Subject:* RE: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the > door latch > > > > Are these door pulls just for small mouth TR3? I don?t have them on my > TR3A. Thanks Jim Henningsen > > > > *From:* Triumphs *On Behalf Of *Don > Hiscock > *Sent:* Thursday, May 28, 2020 1:18 PM > *To:* Keith Stewart > *Cc:* triumphs at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the > door latch > > > > Here's Macy's door pull kit -- two of 'em, in fact. I hand carried these > to TR friends in the UK a couple of years ago, as Mark avoids the hassles > around international shipping. > > https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-4cgcN9b/0/0c68a588/O/i-4cgcN9b.jpg > > > > > > > On Thu, May 28, 2020 at 12:03 PM Keith Stewart > wrote: > > Can?t swear as to originality, but the ones on my 57 TR3 are leather on > the outside but the leather encases a link chain ? with the latch shaft > going through the end link and held in place by a nut while the end link at > the other end is secured by a screw under the escutcheon for the outer > leather strap. > > > > Keith Stewart > > keithstewart at bell.net > > > > > > > > *From:* DAVID MASSEY > *Sent:* May 28, 2020 10:41 AM > *To:* auprichard at uprichard.net; daveg at online.no; triumphs at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the > door latch > > > > Yes. My biggest question is where can I get those parts? Dave says the > inner part is heavy gauge leather. It looks like the outer is thinner, > more supple leather. I have neither. Does anyone sell these parts? > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: > https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=_vrQUCNMwP67bBomHt0MEYqlHySdx4FdSIr-FhHoJps&e= > Archive: > https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_pipermail_triumphs&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=EZup7dQhauIKso4ki3swpMQtRdtBSO3GPCT38_85THk&e= > > https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_archive&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=xzTZQ5fOuA07cAI_kIzXP_AdXoGkktis8E0DAeQKHio&e= > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_mailman_options_triumphs_mmarr-40albiontechnical.com&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=BHMQA_dlR6Mn34pbQLmAEUTEQ5s8gsnq1UurWX-2P1I&e= > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From auprichard at uprichard.net Fri May 29 20:21:31 2020 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (andrew uprichard) Date: Fri, 29 May 2020 22:21:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch In-Reply-To: References: <606726595.125945.1590666415052@mail.yahoo.com> <002601d634e9$74b8f0f0$5e2ad2d0$@uprichard.net> <1077381947.701571.1590676888259@mail.yahoo.com> <076701d63511$c89c4910$59d4db30$@bell.net> <019301d635eb$66a0a8c0$33e1fa40$@gmail.com> <182f01d635ec$9dd7d510$d9877f30$@bell.net> <132E6ACF-13F2-4542-8D5B-951C758139EB@albiontechnical.com> <01c901d635f0$58e3de00$0aab9a00$@gmail.com> <007101d635ff$22793630$676ba290$@uprichard.net> <013201d63600$51837d40$f48a77c0$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <006a01d63629$091d6a10$1b583e30$@uprichard.net> What a country !! From: Don Hiscock Sent: Friday, May 29, 2020 5:52 PM To: andrew uprichard Cc: David Friedlander ; Keith Stewart ; TR3 Triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch I believe the whatjamacallit fixed end of the inner wire of a Bowden cable assembly is called a nipple, Andrew. On Fri, May 29, 2020 at 4:37 PM andrew uprichard > wrote: Here you go From: andrew uprichard > Sent: Friday, May 29, 2020 5:28 PM To: 'David Friedlander' > Cc: 'Jim Henningsen' >; 'Keith Stewart' >; 'TR3 Triumphs' > Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch The end with the whatjamacallit goes inside the door and the cut end has a trunnion fitting. It?s what I use on all my 3As and Bs. I?ll see if I can find a pic. Andrew From: David Friedlander > Sent: Friday, May 29, 2020 5:25 PM To: andrew uprichard > Cc: Jim Henningsen >; Keith Stewart >; TR3 Triumphs > Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch Cool idea, Andrew! I haven't attempted it yet but I imagine working inside the door to attach cables might be a bit more challenging than working connections to the out-the-panel version of the TR2's/3's.... Dave On Fri, May 29, 2020 at 5:21 PM andrew uprichard > wrote: Bicycle brake cables????????. From: Triumphs > On Behalf Of David Friedlander Sent: Friday, May 29, 2020 4:20 PM To: Jim Henningsen > Cc: Keith Stewart >; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch And I don't think they make replacements for the internal ones, either. On Fri, May 29, 2020, 3:37 PM Jim Henningsen > wrote: Same as mine. Thanks. After all these years, still learning something new on a Triumph jim From: Michael Marr Sent: Friday, May 29, 2020 3:12 PM To: Keith Stewart > Cc: Jim Henningsen >; Don Hiscock >; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch My 1960 TR3a has external handles and the cable inside the door pocket. Mike Sent from my iPhone On May 29, 2020, at 14:09, Keith Stewart > wrote: ? Didn?t the 3a go to a pull inside the door pocket and eventually exterior handles as well? Keith From: Jim Henningsen > Sent: May 29, 2020 3:00 PM To: 'Don Hiscock' >; 'Keith Stewart' > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch Are these door pulls just for small mouth TR3? I don?t have them on my TR3A. Thanks Jim Henningsen From: Triumphs > On Behalf Of Don Hiscock Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2020 1:18 PM To: Keith Stewart > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch Here's Macy's door pull kit -- two of 'em, in fact. I hand carried these to TR friends in the UK a couple of years ago, as Mark avoids the hassles around international shipping. https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-4cgcN9b/0/0c68a588/O/i-4cgcN9b.jpg On Thu, May 28, 2020 at 12:03 PM Keith Stewart > wrote: Can?t swear as to originality, but the ones on my 57 TR3 are leather on the outside but the leather encases a link chain ? with the latch shaft going through the end link and held in place by a nut while the end link at the other end is secured by a screw under the escutcheon for the outer leather strap. Keith Stewart keithstewart at bell.net From: DAVID MASSEY > Sent: May 28, 2020 10:41 AM To: auprichard at uprichard.net ; daveg at online.no ; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch Yes. My biggest question is where can I get those parts? Dave says the inner part is heavy gauge leather. It looks like the outer is thinner, more supple leather. I have neither. Does anyone sell these parts? ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html &d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=_vrQUCNMwP67bBomHt0MEYqlHySdx4FdSIr-FhHoJps&e= Archive: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_pipermail_triumphs &d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=EZup7dQhauIKso4ki3swpMQtRdtBSO3GPCT38_85THk&e= https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_archive &d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=xzTZQ5fOuA07cAI_kIzXP_AdXoGkktis8E0DAeQKHio&e= Unsubscribe/Manage: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_mailman_options_triumphs_mmarr-40albiontechnical.com &d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=BHMQA_dlR6Mn34pbQLmAEUTEQ5s8gsnq1UurWX-2P1I&e= ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From Randall.Reihing at utoledo.edu Fri May 29 21:21:22 2020 From: Randall.Reihing at utoledo.edu (Reihing, Randall S.) Date: Sat, 30 May 2020 03:21:22 +0000 Subject: [TR] [EXTERNAL] Re: TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch In-Reply-To: <006a01d63629$091d6a10$1b583e30$@uprichard.net> References: <606726595.125945.1590666415052@mail.yahoo.com> <002601d634e9$74b8f0f0$5e2ad2d0$@uprichard.net> <1077381947.701571.1590676888259@mail.yahoo.com> <076701d63511$c89c4910$59d4db30$@bell.net> <019301d635eb$66a0a8c0$33e1fa40$@gmail.com> <182f01d635ec$9dd7d510$d9877f30$@bell.net> <132E6ACF-13F2-4542-8D5B-951C758139EB@albiontechnical.com> <01c901d635f0$58e3de00$0aab9a00$@gmail.com> <007101d635ff$22793630$676ba290$@uprichard.net> <013201d63600$51837d40$f48a77c0$@uprichard.net> , <006a01d63629$091d6a10$1b583e30$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: "whatjamacallit" - whoa, stiff upper lip on that one! ________________________________ From: Triumphs on behalf of andrew uprichard Sent: Friday, May 29, 2020 10:21 PM To: 'Don Hiscock' Cc: 'Keith Stewart' ; 'TR3 Triumphs' Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch What a country !! From: Don Hiscock Sent: Friday, May 29, 2020 5:52 PM To: andrew uprichard Cc: David Friedlander ; Keith Stewart ; TR3 Triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch I believe the whatjamacallit fixed end of the inner wire of a Bowden cable assembly is called a nipple, Andrew. On Fri, May 29, 2020 at 4:37 PM andrew uprichard > wrote: Here you go From: andrew uprichard > Sent: Friday, May 29, 2020 5:28 PM To: 'David Friedlander' > Cc: 'Jim Henningsen' >; 'Keith Stewart' >; 'TR3 Triumphs' > Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch The end with the whatjamacallit goes inside the door and the cut end has a trunnion fitting. It?s what I use on all my 3As and Bs. I?ll see if I can find a pic. Andrew From: David Friedlander > Sent: Friday, May 29, 2020 5:25 PM To: andrew uprichard > Cc: Jim Henningsen >; Keith Stewart >; TR3 Triumphs > Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch Cool idea, Andrew! I haven't attempted it yet but I imagine working inside the door to attach cables might be a bit more challenging than working connections to the out-the-panel version of the TR2's/3's.... Dave On Fri, May 29, 2020 at 5:21 PM andrew uprichard > wrote: Bicycle brake cables????????. From: Triumphs > On Behalf Of David Friedlander Sent: Friday, May 29, 2020 4:20 PM To: Jim Henningsen > Cc: Keith Stewart >; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch And I don't think they make replacements for the internal ones, either. On Fri, May 29, 2020, 3:37 PM Jim Henningsen > wrote: Same as mine. Thanks. After all these years, still learning something new on a Triumph jim From: Michael Marr > Sent: Friday, May 29, 2020 3:12 PM To: Keith Stewart > Cc: Jim Henningsen >; Don Hiscock >; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch My 1960 TR3a has external handles and the cable inside the door pocket. Mike Sent from my iPhone On May 29, 2020, at 14:09, Keith Stewart > wrote: ? Didn?t the 3a go to a pull inside the door pocket and eventually exterior handles as well? Keith From: Jim Henningsen > Sent: May 29, 2020 3:00 PM To: 'Don Hiscock' >; 'Keith Stewart' > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch Are these door pulls just for small mouth TR3? I don?t have them on my TR3A. Thanks Jim Henningsen From: Triumphs > On Behalf Of Don Hiscock Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2020 1:18 PM To: Keith Stewart > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch Here's Macy's door pull kit -- two of 'em, in fact. I hand carried these to TR friends in the UK a couple of years ago, as Mark avoids the hassles around international shipping. https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-4cgcN9b/0/0c68a588/O/i-4cgcN9b.jpg On Thu, May 28, 2020 at 12:03 PM Keith Stewart > wrote: Can?t swear as to originality, but the ones on my 57 TR3 are leather on the outside but the leather encases a link chain ? with the latch shaft going through the end link and held in place by a nut while the end link at the other end is secured by a screw under the escutcheon for the outer leather strap. Keith Stewart keithstewart at bell.net From: DAVID MASSEY > Sent: May 28, 2020 10:41 AM To: auprichard at uprichard.net; daveg at online.no; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch Yes. My biggest question is where can I get those parts? Dave says the inner part is heavy gauge leather. It looks like the outer is thinner, more supple leather. I have neither. Does anyone sell these parts? ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=_vrQUCNMwP67bBomHt0MEYqlHySdx4FdSIr-FhHoJps&e= Archive: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_pipermail_triumphs&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=EZup7dQhauIKso4ki3swpMQtRdtBSO3GPCT38_85THk&e= https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_archive&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=xzTZQ5fOuA07cAI_kIzXP_AdXoGkktis8E0DAeQKHio&e= Unsubscribe/Manage: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_mailman_options_triumphs_mmarr-40albiontechnical.com&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=BHMQA_dlR6Mn34pbQLmAEUTEQ5s8gsnq1UurWX-2P1I&e= ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Sat May 30 05:23:21 2020 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Sat, 30 May 2020 11:23:21 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch In-Reply-To: <019301d635eb$66a0a8c0$33e1fa40$@gmail.com> References: <606726595.125945.1590666415052@mail.yahoo.com> <002601d634e9$74b8f0f0$5e2ad2d0$@uprichard.net> <1077381947.701571.1590676888259@mail.yahoo.com> <076701d63511$c89c4910$59d4db30$@bell.net> <019301d635eb$66a0a8c0$33e1fa40$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <2031826877.68195.1590837801404@mail.yahoo.com> Once they started fixing outer door releases they didn't need the pull cable located in such a manner that it could be easily found whilst grappling through the side curtain flap. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Jim Henningsen To: 'Don Hiscock' ; 'Keith Stewart' Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, May 29, 2020 2:00 pm Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch #yiv7776350760 #yiv7776350760 -- _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv7776350760 #yiv7776350760 p.yiv7776350760MsoNormal, #yiv7776350760 li.yiv7776350760MsoNormal, #yiv7776350760 div.yiv7776350760MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv7776350760 a:link, #yiv7776350760 span.yiv7776350760MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv7776350760 span.yiv7776350760EmailStyle18 {font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv7776350760 .yiv7776350760MsoChpDefault {font-family:sans-serif;} _filtered {}#yiv7776350760 div.yiv7776350760WordSection1 {}#yiv7776350760 Are these door pulls just for small mouth TR3?? I don?t have them on my TR3A.? Thanks Jim Henningsen ?From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Don Hiscock Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2020 1:18 PM To: Keith Stewart Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch ?Here's Macy's door pull kit -- two of 'em, in fact.? I hand carried these to TR friends in the UK a couple of years ago, as Mark avoids the hassles around international shipping.https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-4cgcN9b/0/0c68a588/O/i-4cgcN9b.jpg ? ?On Thu, May 28, 2020 at 12:03 PM Keith Stewart wrote: Can?t swear as to originality, but the ones on my 57 TR3 are leather on the outside but the leather encases a link chain ? with the latch shaft going through the end link and held in place by a nut while the end link at the other end is secured by a screw under the escutcheon for the outer leather strap.?Keith Stewartkeithstewart at bell.net???From: DAVID MASSEY Sent: May 28, 2020 10:41 AM To: auprichard at uprichard.net; daveg at online.no; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch?Yes.? My biggest question is where can I get those parts?? Dave says the inner part is heavy gauge leather.? It looks like the outer is thinner, more supple leather.? I have neither.? Does anyone sell these parts??** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Sat May 30 05:26:09 2020 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Sat, 30 May 2020 11:26:09 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch In-Reply-To: References: <606726595.125945.1590666415052@mail.yahoo.com> <002601d634e9$74b8f0f0$5e2ad2d0$@uprichard.net> <1077381947.701571.1590676888259@mail.yahoo.com> <076701d63511$c89c4910$59d4db30$@bell.net> <019301d635eb$66a0a8c0$33e1fa40$@gmail.com> <182f01d635ec$9dd7d510$d9877f30$@bell.net> <132E6ACF-13F2-4542-8D5B-951C758139EB@albiontechnical.com> <01c901d635f0$58e3de00$0aab9a00$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <1714721115.62873.1590837969689@mail.yahoo.com> Easy to fabricate.? I got some braided steel wire and some thin-wall vinyl tubing at the hardware store.? Since it is (mostly out of sight it is trivial what you use.? Heck, even dog chain will work. Let the imagination run wild. Dave -----Original Message----- From: David Friedlander To: Jim Henningsen Cc: Keith Stewart ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, May 29, 2020 3:19 pm Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch And I don't think they make replacements for the internal ones, either.? On Fri, May 29, 2020, 3:37 PM Jim Henningsen wrote: Same as mine.? Thanks.? After all these years, still learning something new on a Triumph jim?From: Michael Marr Sent: Friday, May 29, 2020 3:12 PM To: Keith Stewart Cc: Jim Henningsen ; Don Hiscock ; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch?My 1960 TR3a has external handles and the cable inside the door pocket.? ?MikeSent from my iPhone On May 29, 2020, at 14:09, Keith Stewart wrote: ? Didn?t the 3a go to a pull inside the door pocket and eventually exterior handles as well??Keith?From: Jim Henningsen Sent: May 29, 2020 3:00 PM To: 'Don Hiscock' ; 'Keith Stewart' Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch?Are these door pulls just for small mouth TR3?? I don?t have them on my TR3A.? Thanks Jim Henningsen?From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Don Hiscock Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2020 1:18 PM To: Keith Stewart Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch?Here's Macy's door pull kit -- two of 'em, in fact.? I hand carried these to TR friends in the UK a couple of years ago, as Mark avoids the hassles around international shipping.https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-4cgcN9b/0/0c68a588/O/i-4cgcN9b.jpg??On Thu, May 28, 2020 at 12:03 PM Keith Stewart wrote: Can?t swear as to originality, but the ones on my 57 TR3 are leather on the outside but the leather encases a link chain ? with the latch shaft going through the end link and held in place by a nut while the end link at the other end is secured by a screw under the escutcheon for the outer leather strap.?Keith Stewartkeithstewart at bell.net???From: DAVID MASSEY Sent: May 28, 2020 10:41 AM To: auprichard at uprichard.net; daveg at online.no; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch?Yes.? My biggest question is where can I get those parts?? Dave says the inner part is heavy gauge leather.? It looks like the outer is thinner, more supple leather.? I have neither.? Does anyone sell these parts??** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=_vrQUCNMwP67bBomHt0MEYqlHySdx4FdSIr-FhHoJps&e= Archive: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_pipermail_triumphs&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=EZup7dQhauIKso4ki3swpMQtRdtBSO3GPCT38_85THk&e= ?https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_archive&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=xzTZQ5fOuA07cAI_kIzXP_AdXoGkktis8E0DAeQKHio&e= Unsubscribe/Manage: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_mailman_options_triumphs_mmarr-40albiontechnical.com&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=BHMQA_dlR6Mn34pbQLmAEUTEQ5s8gsnq1UurWX-2P1I&e= ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Sat May 30 05:32:53 2020 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Sat, 30 May 2020 11:32:53 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch In-Reply-To: <006a01d63629$091d6a10$1b583e30$@uprichard.net> References: <606726595.125945.1590666415052@mail.yahoo.com> <002601d634e9$74b8f0f0$5e2ad2d0$@uprichard.net> <1077381947.701571.1590676888259@mail.yahoo.com> <076701d63511$c89c4910$59d4db30$@bell.net> <019301d635eb$66a0a8c0$33e1fa40$@gmail.com> <182f01d635ec$9dd7d510$d9877f30$@bell.net> <132E6ACF-13F2-4542-8D5B-951C758139EB@albiontechnical.com> <01c901d635f0$58e3de00$0aab9a00$@gmail.com> <007101d635ff$22793630$676ba290$@uprichard.net> <013201d63600$51837d40$f48a77c0$@uprichard.net> <006a01d63629$091d6a10$1b583e30$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <1172248849.62869.1590838373652@mail.yahoo.com> Yes, we use many technical terms here.? Terms like whatjamacallit, thingamajig, whatsit, doodad.? These terms are very handy when you are trying to be precise.? Just a few of the "improvements" we yanks have made to The Queen's English.? ;-) Cheers Dave -----Original Message----- From: andrew uprichard To: 'Don Hiscock' Cc: 'Keith Stewart' ; 'TR3 Triumphs' Sent: Fri, May 29, 2020 9:21 pm Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch #yiv7015191212 #yiv7015191212 -- _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv7015191212 #yiv7015191212 p.yiv7015191212MsoNormal, #yiv7015191212 li.yiv7015191212MsoNormal, #yiv7015191212 div.yiv7015191212MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv7015191212 a:link, #yiv7015191212 span.yiv7015191212MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv7015191212 span.yiv7015191212EmailStyle18 {font-family:New serif;color:#1F497D;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;text-decoration:none none;}#yiv7015191212 .yiv7015191212MsoChpDefault {font-family:sans-serif;} _filtered {}#yiv7015191212 div.yiv7015191212WordSection1 {}#yiv7015191212 What a country !!? ?From: Don Hiscock Sent: Friday, May 29, 2020 5:52 PM To: andrew uprichard Cc: David Friedlander ; Keith Stewart ; TR3 Triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch ?I believe the whatjamacallit fixed end of the inner wire of a Bowden cable assembly is called a nipple, Andrew. ?On Fri, May 29, 2020 at 4:37 PM andrew uprichard wrote: Here you go?From: andrew uprichard Sent: Friday, May 29, 2020 5:28 PM To: 'David Friedlander' Cc: 'Jim Henningsen' ; 'Keith Stewart' ; 'TR3 Triumphs' Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch?The end with the whatjamacallit goes inside the door and the cut end has a trunnion fitting.? It?s what I use on all my 3As and Bs.? I?ll see if I can find a pic.?Andrew?From: David Friedlander Sent: Friday, May 29, 2020 5:25 PM To: andrew uprichard Cc: Jim Henningsen ; Keith Stewart ; TR3 Triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch?Cool idea, Andrew! I haven't attempted it yet but I imagine?working inside?the door to attach cables might be a bit more challenging?than working?connections to the?out-the-panel version of the TR2's/3's....?Dave?On Fri, May 29, 2020 at 5:21 PM andrew uprichard wrote: Bicycle brake cables????????.?From: Triumphs On Behalf Of David Friedlander Sent: Friday, May 29, 2020 4:20 PM To: Jim Henningsen Cc: Keith Stewart ; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch?And I don't think they make replacements for the internal ones, either.??On Fri, May 29, 2020, 3:37 PM Jim Henningsen wrote: Same as mine.? Thanks.? After all these years, still learning something new on a Triumph jim?From: Michael Marr Sent: Friday, May 29, 2020 3:12 PM To: Keith Stewart Cc: Jim Henningsen ; Don Hiscock ; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch?My 1960 TR3a has external handles and the cable inside the door pocket.? ?MikeSent from my iPhone? On May 29, 2020, at 14:09, Keith Stewart wrote: ? Didn?t the 3a go to a pull inside the door pocket and eventually exterior handles as well??Keith?From: Jim Henningsen Sent: May 29, 2020 3:00 PM To: 'Don Hiscock' ; 'Keith Stewart' Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch?Are these door pulls just for small mouth TR3?? I don?t have them on my TR3A.? Thanks Jim Henningsen?From: Triumphs On Behalf Of Don Hiscock Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2020 1:18 PM To: Keith Stewart Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch?Here's Macy's door pull kit -- two of 'em, in fact.? I hand carried these to TR friends in the UK a couple of years ago, as Mark avoids the hassles around international shipping.https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-4cgcN9b/0/0c68a588/O/i-4cgcN9b.jpg??On Thu, May 28, 2020 at 12:03 PM Keith Stewart wrote: Can?t swear as to originality, but the ones on my 57 TR3 are leather on the outside but the leather encases a link chain ? with the latch shaft going through the end link and held in place by a nut while the end link at the other end is secured by a screw under the escutcheon for the outer leather strap.?Keith Stewartkeithstewart at bell.net???From: DAVID MASSEY Sent: May 28, 2020 10:41 AM To: auprichard at uprichard.net; daveg at online.no; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch?Yes.? My biggest question is where can I get those parts?? Dave says the inner part is heavy gauge leather.? It looks like the outer is thinner, more supple leather.? I have neither.? Does anyone sell these parts??** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=_vrQUCNMwP67bBomHt0MEYqlHySdx4FdSIr-FhHoJps&e= Archive: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_pipermail_triumphs&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=EZup7dQhauIKso4ki3swpMQtRdtBSO3GPCT38_85THk&e= ?https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_archive&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=xzTZQ5fOuA07cAI_kIzXP_AdXoGkktis8E0DAeQKHio&e= Unsubscribe/Manage: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_mailman_options_triumphs_mmarr-40albiontechnical.com&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=BHMQA_dlR6Mn34pbQLmAEUTEQ5s8gsnq1UurWX-2P1I&e= ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs? http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave at ranteer.com Sat May 30 08:07:28 2020 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Sat, 30 May 2020 09:07:28 -0500 Subject: [TR] FW: TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch In-Reply-To: References: <606726595.125945.1590666415052@mail.yahoo.com> <002601d634e9$74b8f0f0$5e2ad2d0$@uprichard.net> <1077381947.701571.1590676888259@mail.yahoo.com> <076701d63511$c89c4910$59d4db30$@bell.net> <019301d635eb$66a0a8c0$33e1fa40$@gmail.com> <182f01d635ec$9dd7d510$d9877f30$@bell.net> <132E6ACF-13F2-4542-8D5B-951C758139EB@albiontechnical.com> <01c901d635f0$58e3de00$0aab9a00$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <008701d6368b$a73d8830$f5b89890$@ranteer.com> If anyone is interested I have a pair of new never opened cables, little metal plates, etc for a TR2/3. I bought them for my restoration project a few years ago then they got lost in the shuffle. No longer have the TR3 From: Triumphs On Behalf Of David Friedlander Sent: Friday, May 29, 2020 3:20 PM To: Jim Henningsen Cc: Keith Stewart ; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch And I don't think they make replacements for the internal ones, either. On Fri, May 29, 2020, 3:37 PM Jim Henningsen > wrote: Same as mine. Thanks. After all these years, still learning something new on a Triumph jim From: Michael Marr > Sent: Friday, May 29, 2020 3:12 PM To: Keith Stewart > Cc: Jim Henningsen >; Don Hiscock >; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch My 1960 TR3a has external handles and the cable inside the door pocket. Mike Sent from my iPhone On May 29, 2020, at 14:09, Keith Stewart > wrote: ? Didn?t the 3a go to a pull inside the door pocket and eventually exterior handles as well? Keith From: Jim Henningsen > Sent: May 29, 2020 3:00 PM To: 'Don Hiscock' >; 'Keith Stewart' > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch Are these door pulls just for small mouth TR3? I don?t have them on my TR3A. Thanks Jim Henningsen From: Triumphs > On Behalf Of Don Hiscock Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2020 1:18 PM To: Keith Stewart > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch Here's Macy's door pull kit -- two of 'em, in fact. I hand carried these to TR friends in the UK a couple of years ago, as Mark avoids the hassles around international shipping. https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-4cgcN9b/0/0c68a588/O/i-4cgcN9b.jpg On Thu, May 28, 2020 at 12:03 PM Keith Stewart > wrote: Can?t swear as to originality, but the ones on my 57 TR3 are leather on the outside but the leather encases a link chain ? with the latch shaft going through the end link and held in place by a nut while the end link at the other end is secured by a screw under the escutcheon for the outer leather strap. Keith Stewart keithstewart at bell.net From: DAVID MASSEY > Sent: May 28, 2020 10:41 AM To: auprichard at uprichard.net ; daveg at online.no ; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch Yes. My biggest question is where can I get those parts? Dave says the inner part is heavy gauge leather. It looks like the outer is thinner, more supple leather. I have neither. Does anyone sell these parts? ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html &d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=_vrQUCNMwP67bBomHt0MEYqlHySdx4FdSIr-FhHoJps&e= Archive: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_pipermail_triumphs &d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=EZup7dQhauIKso4ki3swpMQtRdtBSO3GPCT38_85THk&e= https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_archive &d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=xzTZQ5fOuA07cAI_kIzXP_AdXoGkktis8E0DAeQKHio&e= Unsubscribe/Manage: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_mailman_options_triumphs_mmarr-40albiontechnical.com &d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=BHMQA_dlR6Mn34pbQLmAEUTEQ5s8gsnq1UurWX-2P1I&e= ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- An embedded and charset-unspecified text was scrubbed... Name: Untitled attachment 00116.txt URL: From notakitcar at yahoo.com Sun May 31 15:52:23 2020 From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher) Date: Sun, 31 May 2020 16:52:23 -0500 Subject: [TR] RPM speed calc References: <61285E0C-FF09-4C39-9224-28C4275DC888@flash.net> Message-ID: Came across this calculator with all the right input fields. But, I wonder how accurate it really is given the following input. TR3 with a 3.7 rear, OD at redline of 5,000rpm. Vredestein 165R/15 tires, 25.4? diameter. Should be moving along at 124mph! https://wahiduddin.net/calc/calc_speed_rpm.htm Anyone get a different answer? Bill Serenity Now...... -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Sun May 31 17:07:38 2020 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sun, 31 May 2020 16:07:38 -0700 Subject: [TR] RPM speed calc In-Reply-To: References: <61285E0C-FF09-4C39-9224-28C4275DC888@flash.net> Message-ID: Your math is possibly correct - assume you're using .82 for the OD. But do you think you can get up to 5000 rpm in OD other than downhill with a tailwind? On Sun, May 31, 2020 at 2:54 PM bill beecher wrote: > Came across this calculator with all the right input fields. But, I > wonder how accurate it really is given the following input. > TR3 with a 3.7 rear, OD at redline of 5,000rpm. Vredestein 165R/15 tires, > 25.4? diameter. Should be moving along at 124mph! > > https://wahiduddin.net/calc/calc_speed_rpm.htm > > Anyone get a different answer? > Bill > Serenity Now...... > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs > http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From notakitcar at yahoo.com Sun May 31 17:29:52 2020 From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher) Date: Sun, 31 May 2020 18:29:52 -0500 Subject: [TR] RPM speed calc In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1E443EB5-5CFA-4841-9504-E2F1C23EF0D0@yahoo.com> It?s 12.7 radius that gave me that speed. Serenity Now...... On May 31, 2020, at 6:07 PM, Geo Hahn wrote: ? Your math is possibly correct - assume you're using .82 for the OD. But do you think you can get up to 5000 rpm in OD other than downhill with a tailwind? > On Sun, May 31, 2020 at 2:54 PM bill beecher wrote: > Came across this calculator with all the right input fields. But, I wonder how accurate it really is given the following input. > TR3 with a 3.7 rear, OD at redline of 5,000rpm. Vredestein 165R/15 tires, 25.4? diameter. Should be moving along at 124mph! > > https://wahiduddin.net/calc/calc_speed_rpm.htm > > Anyone get a different answer? > Bill > Serenity Now...... > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From notakitcar at yahoo.com Sun May 31 17:29:52 2020 From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher) Date: Sun, 31 May 2020 18:29:52 -0500 Subject: [TR] RPM speed calc In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1E443EB5-5CFA-4841-9504-E2F1C23EF0D0@yahoo.com> It?s 12.7 radius that gave me that speed. Serenity Now...... On May 31, 2020, at 6:07 PM, Geo Hahn wrote: ? Your math is possibly correct - assume you're using .82 for the OD. But do you think you can get up to 5000 rpm in OD other than downhill with a tailwind? > On Sun, May 31, 2020 at 2:54 PM bill beecher wrote: > Came across this calculator with all the right input fields. But, I wonder how accurate it really is given the following input. > TR3 with a 3.7 rear, OD at redline of 5,000rpm. Vredestein 165R/15 tires, 25.4? diameter. Should be moving along at 124mph! > > https://wahiduddin.net/calc/calc_speed_rpm.htm > > Anyone get a different answer? > Bill > Serenity Now...... > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Sun May 31 17:30:36 2020 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Sun, 31 May 2020 19:30:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] RPM speed calc In-Reply-To: References: <61285E0C-FF09-4C39-9224-28C4275DC888@flash.net> Message-ID: <79A9BB1057EB490C9BB761D9EBE696E8@VlackTK121647> Use radius not diameter per the formula. From: Geo Hahn Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2020 7:07 PM To: bill beecher Cc: Dave Ranteer Subject: Re: [TR] RPM speed calc Your math is possibly correct - assume you're using .82 for the OD. But do you think you can get up to 5000 rpm in OD other than downhill with a tailwind? On Sun, May 31, 2020 at 2:54 PM bill beecher wrote: Came across this calculator with all the right input fields. But, I wonder how accurate it really is given the following input. TR3 with a 3.7 rear, OD at redline of 5,000rpm. Vredestein 165R/15 tires, 25.4? diameter. Should be moving along at 124mph! https://wahiduddin.net/calc/calc_speed_rpm.htm Anyone get a different answer? Bill Serenity Now...... ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jerryvv at roadrunner.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From notakitcar at yahoo.com Sun May 31 17:35:17 2020 From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher) Date: Sun, 31 May 2020 18:35:17 -0500 Subject: [TR] RPM speed calc In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6F32C04C-8A53-49C3-A47F-C0671404CCFA@yahoo.com> Was at 4,000Rpm yesterday on the flat, open cab, didn?t check the windage. TR4 motor was still pulling, ran out of road. Bill Serenity Now...... On May 31, 2020, at 6:07 PM, Geo Hahn wrote: ? Your math is possibly correct - assume you're using .82 for the OD. But do you think you can get up to 5000 rpm in OD other than downhill with a tailwind? > On Sun, May 31, 2020 at 2:54 PM bill beecher wrote: > Came across this calculator with all the right input fields. But, I wonder how accurate it really is given the following input. > TR3 with a 3.7 rear, OD at redline of 5,000rpm. Vredestein 165R/15 tires, 25.4? diameter. Should be moving along at 124mph! > > https://wahiduddin.net/calc/calc_speed_rpm.htm > > Anyone get a different answer? > Bill > Serenity Now...... > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From notakitcar at yahoo.com Sun May 31 17:35:17 2020 From: notakitcar at yahoo.com (bill beecher) Date: Sun, 31 May 2020 18:35:17 -0500 Subject: [TR] RPM speed calc In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6F32C04C-8A53-49C3-A47F-C0671404CCFA@yahoo.com> Was at 4,000Rpm yesterday on the flat, open cab, didn?t check the windage. TR4 motor was still pulling, ran out of road. Bill Serenity Now...... On May 31, 2020, at 6:07 PM, Geo Hahn wrote: ? Your math is possibly correct - assume you're using .82 for the OD. But do you think you can get up to 5000 rpm in OD other than downhill with a tailwind? > On Sun, May 31, 2020 at 2:54 PM bill beecher wrote: > Came across this calculator with all the right input fields. But, I wonder how accurate it really is given the following input. > TR3 with a 3.7 rear, OD at redline of 5,000rpm. Vredestein 165R/15 tires, 25.4? diameter. Should be moving along at 124mph! > > https://wahiduddin.net/calc/calc_speed_rpm.htm > > Anyone get a different answer? > Bill > Serenity Now...... > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Sun May 31 17:53:08 2020 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sun, 31 May 2020 16:53:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] RPM speed calc In-Reply-To: <6F32C04C-8A53-49C3-A47F-C0671404CCFA@yahoo.com> References: <6F32C04C-8A53-49C3-A47F-C0671404CCFA@yahoo.com> Message-ID: On Sun, May 31, 2020 at 4:35 PM bill beecher wrote: > Was at 4,000Rpm yesterday on the flat, open cab, didn?t check the > windage. TR4 motor was still pulling, ran out of road. > >> > > So were you doing 100? I have done 100 in the TR4 whilst overtaking but I was watching the road and not the instruments so no idea what the tach said (only knew about the 100 when I later checked the GPS trip summary). Geo -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From levilevi at comcast.net Sat May 30 15:04:12 2020 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Sat, 30 May 2020 15:04:12 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch In-Reply-To: <007101d635ff$22793630$676ba290$@uprichard.net> References: <606726595.125945.1590666415052@mail.yahoo.com> <002601d634e9$74b8f0f0$5e2ad2d0$@uprichard.net> <1077381947.701571.1590676888259@mail.yahoo.com> <076701d63511$c89c4910$59d4db30$@bell.net> <019301d635eb$66a0a8c0$33e1fa40$@gmail.com> <182f01d635ec$9dd7d510$d9877f30$@bell.net> <132E6ACF-13F2-4542-8D5B-951C758139EB@albiontechnical.com> <01c901d635f0$58e3de00$0aab9a00$@gmail.com> <007101d635ff$22793630$676ba290$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <2B4EC740-30D2-483E-8F26-EA1E65821069@comcast.net> I use a bicycle cable for an emergency bonnet release on my TR6. Directly from the lever on the latch to the passenger?s footwell where the nipple is hidden away. > On May 29, 2020, at 3:21 PM, andrew uprichard wrote: > > Bicycle brake cables????????. > > From: Triumphs > On Behalf Of David Friedlander > Sent: Friday, May 29, 2020 4:20 PM > To: Jim Henningsen > > Cc: Keith Stewart >; triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch > > And I don't think they make replacements for the internal ones, either. > > On Fri, May 29, 2020, 3:37 PM Jim Henningsen > wrote: >> Same as mine. Thanks. After all these years, still learning something new on a Triumph jim >> >> From: Michael Marr > >> Sent: Friday, May 29, 2020 3:12 PM >> To: Keith Stewart > >> Cc: Jim Henningsen >; Don Hiscock >; triumphs at autox.team.net >> Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch >> >> My 1960 TR3a has external handles and the cable inside the door pocket. >> >> Mike >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> >>> On May 29, 2020, at 14:09, Keith Stewart > wrote: >>> >>> ? >>> Didn?t the 3a go to a pull inside the door pocket and eventually exterior handles as well? >>> >>> Keith >>> >>> From: Jim Henningsen > >>> Sent: May 29, 2020 3:00 PM >>> To: 'Don Hiscock' >; 'Keith Stewart' > >>> Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net >>> Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch >>> >>> Are these door pulls just for small mouth TR3? I don?t have them on my TR3A. Thanks Jim Henningsen >>> >>> From: Triumphs > On Behalf Of Don Hiscock >>> Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2020 1:18 PM >>> To: Keith Stewart > >>> Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net >>> Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch >>> >>> Here's Macy's door pull kit -- two of 'em, in fact. I hand carried these to TR friends in the UK a couple of years ago, as Mark avoids the hassles around international shipping. >>> https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-4cgcN9b/0/0c68a588/O/i-4cgcN9b.jpg >>> >>> >>> On Thu, May 28, 2020 at 12:03 PM Keith Stewart > wrote: >>>> Can?t swear as to originality, but the ones on my 57 TR3 are leather on the outside but the leather encases a link chain ? with the latch shaft going through the end link and held in place by a nut while the end link at the other end is secured by a screw under the escutcheon for the outer leather strap. >>>> >>>> Keith Stewart >>>> keithstewart at bell.net >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> From: DAVID MASSEY > >>>> Sent: May 28, 2020 10:41 AM >>>> To: auprichard at uprichard.net ; daveg at online.no ; triumphs at autox.team.net >>>> Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 - how does the door latch strap fasten to the door latch >>>> >>>> Yes. My biggest question is where can I get those parts? Dave says the inner part is heavy gauge leather. It looks like the outer is thinner, more supple leather. I have neither. Does anyone sell these parts? >>>> >>>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >>>> >>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >>>> >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com >>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >>> >>> Donate: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=_vrQUCNMwP67bBomHt0MEYqlHySdx4FdSIr-FhHoJps&e= >>> Archive: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_pipermail_triumphs&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=EZup7dQhauIKso4ki3swpMQtRdtBSO3GPCT38_85THk&e= https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_archive&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=xzTZQ5fOuA07cAI_kIzXP_AdXoGkktis8E0DAeQKHio&e= >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_mailman_options_triumphs_mmarr-40albiontechnical.com&d=DwICAg&c=euGZstcaTDllvimEN8b7jXrwqOf-v5A_CdpgnVfiiMM&r=HL4LAX-jeuoWNeqz1u1ryqDHfrhQ38xO3ECYGpjCniQ&m=AeZajmlK7Ef6sZ5iHEMXS5hrrWQZAnlTCzuYFZbUrXM&s=BHMQA_dlR6Mn34pbQLmAEUTEQ5s8gsnq1UurWX-2P1I&e= >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net Bud Rolofson Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... 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