[TR] TR4 Fuel Delivery Issue & Mod

Tue Aug 11 05:47:03 MDT 2020

On the advice of the late great Randall Young, I tried it once and it worked !

Andrew Uprichard

Jackson, Michigan

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of DAVID MASSEY
Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2020 7:30 AM
To: fogbro1 at comcast.net; grglmn at gmail.com; staffel at comcast.net
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Fuel Delivery Issue & Mod

I've heard of people adding a second compression sleeve (acorn) cut in half to achieve the desired length.  I haven't tried it myself since I got mine to seal up with the standard sleeve but if I had an issue that would have been my next step.

Dave 

-----Original Message-----
From: EDWARD WOODS <fogbro1 at comcast.net <mailto:fogbro1 at comcast.net> >
To: Greg Lemon <grglmn at gmail.com <mailto:grglmn at gmail.com> >; staffel <staffel at comcast.net <mailto:staffel at comcast.net> >
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> >
Sent: Tue, Aug 11, 2020 6:01 am
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Fuel Delivery Issue & Mod

And isn't it the brass "acorn" that seals the connection at the pump, not the threads? ISTR that the original "acorn" is a bit longer than the replacements available which limits compression and can cause a leak. At one time there was someone making a longer "acorn" to solve this problem.  

Ed Woods 

On 08/10/2020 11:57 PM Greg Lemon <grglmn at gmail.com <mailto:grglmn at gmail.com> > wrote: 

Just a couple random thoughts here.  One, I could not figure out from your message where exactly you ended up putting the electric pump.  My understanding is most electric pumps like to push better than the like to pull, MG and Healey pumps are mounted close to the tank and low in back, that would be a good place for the new TR electric pump.  You seem somewhat concerned about originality.   

Second, mechanical pump rebuild kits are readily available and not too hard to fit.  There are lots of things I remember about rebuilding my TR ten years ago, rebuilding the pump is not one of them, so it must have been fairly easy to do and worked (and has been working fine for ten years). 

Good Luck 

Greg Lemon 

TR250 

On Mon, Aug 10, 2020, 10:43 PM staffel < staffel at comcast.net <mailto:staffel at comcast.net> > wrote: 

Several years ago on an evening  club drive in the Catoctin Mts of Maryland my TR4 developed running/ hesitation issues. Then it got dark & started to rain. Could not drive the car steady over 45mph. Typical fuel flow clogging issue symptoms. Fortunately we made it into Fredericksburg and a Motel. 

Next morning, still raining,  the issue was apparent: in the bottom of the Glass fuel bowl- a pile of 'rust dust'.  Cleaned the bowl & nursed the car home 30 miles, but it kept dying. Fortunately a Jag club friend came by and got his trailer & towed me home. 

Further examination determined sediment also in the CD carbs fuel bowls. So much for the fuel pump 'screen' being 'effective'. 

Also examination of the fuel pump (original) revealed a weak diaphragm, so while working on the carbs, ordered a new pump from TRF.  

A few months later got everything back together.  The engine started right up & ran fine. But no matter how I tried to seal the threads on fuel feed of the original  curved pipe inlet 'nut' to the new pump ( pipe dope, teflon tape, rtv) the leak wouldn't stop.  

Magnifying glass exam of the original Triumph  Male pipe 'nut' and the female threaded bore of the new TRF pump revealed a slight thread mismatch - Chinese machining. It was not Metric either.  

So after talking with TRF, I decided to forget the mechanical pump and install an electric pump, ala Jaguar V12s & Jensen Healey / GTs (Lotus 907). 

Well, I installed a couple of  different new electric  pumps  adjacent to the mechanical pump. 

They would never 'self prime'.  

Now, returning to the project. I removed the mechanical pump, & DRAINED the tank of the old fuel. It seems that the gravity feed when the tank is less than 1/2 full requires the elec pump to be very low ( like the original input height of the original pump, to receive fuel.  

So I am redetailing the frame (cleaning & new paint) and securing the new fuel line, inline glass Filter & elec pump  right on the frame. This allows the steel feed line from the tank ( after Dremel Tool cutting) to match the new location of the electric pump. 

Next will be modifying a new copper fuel line ( semblance of originality) to meet the elec pump feed right behind & adjacent to the Water pump. The original copper pipe mated to the back of the mechanical pump , ran up and forward along the engine at the cylinder head level to the front of the engine & then across to the carburetor feeds. 

Finally hope this resolves the fuel delivery issue. 

I  wanted to share a warning about the TRF pump supplier manufacturing glitch. So others can not waste years getting their TRs back to Roadworthy status. 

Obviously not going to drive a car with weeping fuel near a hot engine. At least on the TR4 & 6s, ( unlike Jaguar 6s ( have 2) or V12s ( have 3), Jensen GTs ( have 3) ; the exhaust Manifolds are on the opposite side of the engine.  

Sherman D Taffel  

Columbia MD and Goldvein VA  

65 TR4 CT 50054L 

( per VTR the last known TR4 produced & shipped to USA) 

Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S10, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable smartphone 

Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S10, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable smartphone 

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