From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Tue Oct  1 07:04:58 2019
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P)
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 2019 07:04:58 -0600
Subject: [TR] Paint job for 1972 TR6
In-Reply-To: <000401d57817$b3db91f0$1b92b5d0$@msystech.com>
References: <000401d57817$b3db91f0$1b92b5d0$@msystech.com>
Message-ID: <9d104120-a6d5-ddf9-ea8b-5e6e15afc7c1@porterscustom.com>

Do the frame alignment first as it might crack bondo or previous 
repairs. If you do the prep work your self..Maaco like shops can do a 
good paint job. You can even choose the paint they use. Will get the 
price down into the low thousands... daveP

On 9/30/2019 11:18 PM, Jeff Nathanson wrote:
>
> Hello,
>
> I?m looking to have my ?72 TR6 painted. However there are ?2 
> restoration/paint places near me, (Philadelphia area).? They are both 
> say that it?s going to cost about $15,000. There is nothing wrong with 
> my car mechanically. And the current paint job is not that bad. But 
> the engine bay is the (original ????) black. And the frame night need 
> some alignment. The doors do not align exactly. I?m not looking for a 
> car show looking vehicle. But I don?t want a Maaco job either. Does 
> anyone have ?any suggestions?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jeff Nathanson
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/frogeye at porterscustom.com

-- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/

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From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com  Tue Oct  1 07:15:55 2019
From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad)
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 2019 13:15:55 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Paint job for 1972 TR6
In-Reply-To: <9d104120-a6d5-ddf9-ea8b-5e6e15afc7c1@porterscustom.com>
References: <000401d57817$b3db91f0$1b92b5d0$@msystech.com>
 <9d104120-a6d5-ddf9-ea8b-5e6e15afc7c1@porterscustom.com>
Message-ID: <1681544958.1748742.1569935755602@mail.yahoo.com>

 Absolutely agree.? Maaco can spray paint ...... usually do a pretty good job of it.? Prep work is key, though, and that is where they suffer.? If you are capable do the prep yourself.? We did that on my son's Dodge Magnum Wagon..... Maaco painted it with their top quality paint and 3 coats clear for about $1200.? It came out great.? We cut and buffed it at home.? We would have spent close to that on paint anyhow..
Chad in Tulsa

    On Tuesday, October 1, 2019, 08:05:26 AM CDT, David P <frogeye at porterscustom.com> wrote:  
 
  
Do the frame alignment first as it might crack bondo or previous repairs. If you do the prep work your self..Maaco like shops can do a good paint job. You can even choose the paint they use. Will get the price down into the low thousands... daveP
 
 On 9/30/2019 11:18 PM, Jeff Nathanson wrote:
  
 
 
Hello,
 
 ?
 
I?m looking to have my ?72 TR6 painted. However there are ?2 restoration/paint places near me, (Philadelphia area).? They are both say that it?s going to cost about $15,000. There is nothing wrong with my car mechanically. And the current paint job is not that bad. But  the engine bay is the (original ????) black. And the frame night need some alignment. The doors do not align exactly. I?m not looking for a car show looking vehicle. But I don?t want a  Maaco job either. Does anyone have ?any suggestions?
 
 ?
 
Thanks,
 
Jeff Nathanson
  
  ** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/frogeye at porterscustom.com
 -- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ ** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From mtgaines at presby.edu  Tue Oct  1 08:57:02 2019
From: mtgaines at presby.edu (Tim Gaines)
Date: Tue, 01 Oct 2019 14:57:02 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR6 tie rods and gaiters
Message-ID: <em53cb709d-65b8-4b86-be08-aa4c895c681e@laptop-lkrq9kmj>

I've got a tiny bit of play when I wiggle the front hubs left and right, 
so I've ordered new tie rod ends, a separator tool, and gaiters (old 
ones badly split) from Moss. I watched a Youtube video of a guy 
struggling to replace the gaiters over the inner tie rod joints on his 
TR6 and just saw in the Haynes manual that new inner joints "must" be 
replaced if the gaiters are torn. So, two questions.
1. Do I really have to replace the inner joints if they seem sturdy? I 
think I know the answer here. "If you are going to do the ends, why not 
. . . . "
2. Is there a technique for replacing the gaiters easily, or would that 
be easier anyway while installing new inner joints?

Thanks,
Tim Gaines
1974 TR6
1980 Spitfire


---
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From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Tue Oct  1 14:20:42 2019
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 2019 16:20:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] 62 TR4 Temp Gauge
In-Reply-To: <20190930021058.16DDCA072D@autox.team.net>
References: <20190930021058.16DDCA072D@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <CANhzkeMPE8GKesBZtDOM2_3x3GT76ANOKUx-M4jmgAAa4YsJYw@mail.gmail.com>

I've had more than one water pump failure that resulted in very quick temp
gauge showing actual overheating and still having a cool radiator.....
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From joemato at sbcglobal.net  Wed Oct  2 13:05:51 2019
From: joemato at sbcglobal.net (JOSEPH MATO)
Date: Wed, 2 Oct 2019 19:05:51 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 12, Issue 221
In-Reply-To: <mailman.11.1570039203.5281.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.11.1570039203.5281.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <778987510.2762802.1570043151584@mail.yahoo.com>

 A cool radiator is a closed thermostat stopping radiator flow.

Joe Mato TR3

     On Wednesday, October 2, 2019, 2:01:26 PM EDT, <triumphs-request at autox.team.net> wrote:  
 
 Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to
??? triumphs at autox.team.net

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
??? http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
??? triumphs-request at autox.team.net

You can reach the person managing the list at
??? triumphs-owner at autox.team.net

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..."


Today's Topics:

? 1. Re: 62 TR4 Temp Gauge (Chris Simo)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 1 Oct 2019 16:20:42 -0400
From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen at gmail.com>
To: list Triumph <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] 62 TR4 Temp Gauge
Message-ID:
??? <CANhzkeMPE8GKesBZtDOM2_3x3GT76ANOKUx-M4jmgAAa4YsJYw at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I've had more than one water pump failure that resulted in very quick temp
gauge showing actual overheating and still having a cool radiator.....
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------------------------------

Subject: Digest Footer

_______________________________________________

Triumphs mailing list
Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


------------------------------

End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 12, Issue 221
*****************************************
  
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From asg123 at centurylink.net  Thu Oct  3 09:24:22 2019
From: asg123 at centurylink.net (asg123 at centurylink.net)
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2019 11:24:22 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Crank shaft bearings,1965 TR4A
Message-ID: <1820422849.58266045.1570116262977.JavaMail.zimbra@centurylink.net>

Good day all. Any experience or recommendations for best bearings to use on an old, maybe not so concentric, crankshaft. Mechanic/ friend has schooled me that a perfect, recently machined crankshaft can tolerate hard bearings that will last a long time without any need to conform to crankshaft irregularities. An old out of round crank needs bearing material that is somewhat malleable and can embed into the irregularities but is so soft they usually don't last as long. The old Clevite 77 bearings had both advantages of embeddability and a durable alloy. However, it seems that those NOS bearings are now unavailable I think I read that the King Bearings are the closest to them. Thanks, Arnold 
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From j_bar_j at hotmail.com  Thu Oct  3 12:51:12 2019
From: j_bar_j at hotmail.com (Joel E. Justin)
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2019 18:51:12 +0000
Subject: [TR] Crank shaft bearings,1965 TR4A
In-Reply-To: <1820422849.58266045.1570116262977.JavaMail.zimbra@centurylink.net>
References: <1820422849.58266045.1570116262977.JavaMail.zimbra@centurylink.net>
Message-ID: <CY4PR13MB095135F924A59B0D2EFDB3D4BE9F0@CY4PR13MB0951.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>

Why would you want to rebuild an engine with an old, out-of-round crankshaft? The machine shop work to get it polished/ground and the block line-bored doesn't cost much and gives you good piece of mind that your rebuilt engine will last.

Specifically on bearings, I've used the King tri-metal bearings on all my rebuilds and have been happy with them. But they were all used on polished (and balanced) cranks and line-bored blocks.

Joel...

________________________________
From: asg123 at centurylink.net <asg123 at centurylink.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 3, 2019 8:24 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Crank shaft bearings,1965 TR4A

Good day all.  Any experience or  recommendations for best bearings to use on an old, maybe not so concentric, crankshaft.   Mechanic/ friend has schooled me that a perfect, recently machined crankshaft can tolerate hard bearings that will last a long time without any need to conform to crankshaft irregularities.   An old out of round crank needs bearing material that is somewhat malleable and can embed into the irregularities but is so soft they usually don't last as long.   The old Clevite 77 bearings had both advantages of embeddability and a durable alloy.  However, it seems that those NOS bearings are now unavailable  I think I read that the King Bearings are the closest to them.  Thanks, Arnold
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From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Thu Oct  3 13:04:16 2019
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P)
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2019 13:04:16 -0600
Subject: [TR] Crank shaft bearings,1965 TR4A
In-Reply-To: <bbe5fa27-b4eb-3124-f3ac-c3822c13eecb@porterscustom.com>
References: <bbe5fa27-b4eb-3124-f3ac-c3822c13eecb@porterscustom.com>
Message-ID: <29e9cebc-7b7e-1083-e7ee-a8b60971b09a@porterscustom.com>




-------- Forwarded Message --------
Subject: 	Re: [TR] Crank shaft bearings,1965 TR4A
Date: 	Thu, 3 Oct 2019 10:38:43 -0600
From: 	David P <frogeye at porterscustom.com>
To: 	asg123 at centurylink.net



I suspect you might be trying to avoid the effort to take the engine 
apart.... I'll say, that being the case you could have someone make 
babbet bearings that might do what you seek.... or not. Best to have the 
crank machined and buy proper bearings. The machining isn't all that 
expensive... DaveP

On 10/3/2019 9:24 AM, asg123 at centurylink.net wrote:
> Good day all.? Any experience or? recommendations for best bearings to 
> use on an old, maybe not so concentric, crankshaft.?? Mechanic/ friend 
> has schooled me that a perfect, recently machined crankshaft can 
> tolerate hard bearings that will last a long time without any need to 
> conform to crankshaft irregularities.?? An old out of round crank 
> needs bearing material that is somewhat malleable and can embed into 
> the irregularities but is so soft they usually don't last as long. ? 
> The old Clevite 77 bearings had both advantages of/embeddability/ and 
> a durable alloy.? However, it seems that those NOS bearings are now 
> unavailable? I think I read that the King Bearings are the closest to 
> them.? Thanks, Arnold
>
> **triumphs at autox.team.net  **
>
> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs   http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/frogeye at porterscustom.com

-- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here:WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/

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From trguy75 at gmail.com  Thu Oct  3 16:07:24 2019
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen)
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2019 18:07:24 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR 3 / 4 Engine Number
Message-ID: <000401d57a36$efa33190$cee994b0$@gmail.com>

The engine in my 1960 TR3A is CT 73481E  It is not the original engine to
the car per heritage cert., but curious what TR this is from.  I thought
TR4s ended CT 40xxx and 4a went to CTC.  Thoughts?
Is this a TR3A that has a CT instead of TS prefix?  Other Triumph model?
Thanks,
Jim Henningsen
Ocala FL


From wbeech at flash.net  Thu Oct  3 16:31:49 2019
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net)
Date: Thu, 3 Oct 2019 17:31:49 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR 3 / 4 Engine Number
In-Reply-To: <000401d57a36$efa33190$cee994b0$@gmail.com>
References: <000401d57a36$efa33190$cee994b0$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <E6F1E1C6-11D7-48F9-BCF8-D983802C3949@flash.net>

As reference I have a ?66 TR4A motor in my ?58 TR3A.  
The number is: CT67072E, so yours is not far after. 

Bill
Sent from my IBM 8088

> On Oct 3, 2019, at 5:07 PM, Jim Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 

?The engine in my 1960 TR3A is CT 73481E  It is not the original engine to
the car per heritage cert., but curious what TR this is from.  I thought
TR4s ended CT 40xxx and 4a went to CTC.  Thoughts?
Is this a TR3A that has a CT instead of TS prefix?  Other Triumph model?
Thanks,
Jim Henningsen
Ocala FL

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net


From trguy75 at gmail.com  Sat Oct  5 04:46:40 2019
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen)
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 2019 06:46:40 -0400
Subject: [TR] 1960 TR3A
Message-ID: <024c01d57b6a$2c9108f0$85b31ad0$@gmail.com>

List:
My apologies, if I shouldn't have posted this, but you all helped me with
some of the mechanical questions on this car.  My red 1960 TR3A is looking
for a new home and is listed at the following link.

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1960-triumph-tr3a-16/

I am mentioning this because the previous owner whom I have known for over
20 years and  did the body off frame restoration was an avid VTR, TRA, and
TRF Coventry Inn member for many many years and he wanted this car to go to
a great Triumph member's home.  I have been deciding whether to keep this
one or my black one that looks just like it and have decided to keep the
black.  Please pass on this link if you know someone who is looking to add
to their TR fleet or wanting to join our club and wonderful society of TR
petrol heads.

Thanks so much,
Jim Henningsen
Ocala FL



From grglmn at gmail.com  Sat Oct  5 06:21:04 2019
From: grglmn at gmail.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 2019 07:21:04 -0500
Subject: [TR] 1960 TR3A
In-Reply-To: <024c01d57b6a$2c9108f0$85b31ad0$@gmail.com>
References: <024c01d57b6a$2c9108f0$85b31ad0$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFtw3aaeFbpVg2hnVr28G2on4X-3pVfUZZvaF6LxbQLu6rzS_g@mail.gmail.com>

No need to apologize for letting us look at pictures of a beautiful
Triumph.  Great way to start the day.

Good luck with the sale, BAT is a great venue, and I am sure your car will
receive many positive comments and a good price.

Greg Lemon
TR250

On Sat, Oct 5, 2019, 5:46 AM Jim Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com> wrote:

> List:
> My apologies, if I shouldn't have posted this, but you all helped me with
> some of the mechanical questions on this car.  My red 1960 TR3A is looking
> for a new home and is listed at the following link.
>
> https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1960-triumph-tr3a-16/
>
> I am mentioning this because the previous owner whom I have known for over
> 20 years and  did the body off frame restoration was an avid VTR, TRA, and
> TRF Coventry Inn member for many many years and he wanted this car to go to
> a great Triumph member's home.  I have been deciding whether to keep this
> one or my black one that looks just like it and have decided to keep the
> black.  Please pass on this link if you know someone who is looking to add
> to their TR fleet or wanting to join our club and wonderful society of TR
> petrol heads.
>
> Thanks so much,
> Jim Henningsen
> Ocala FL
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/grglmn at gmail.com
>
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From L1j1s at aol.com  Sat Oct  5 13:25:18 2019
From: L1j1s at aol.com (Lawarence Schwartz)
Date: Sat, 5 Oct 2019 15:25:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] Paint job for 1972 TR6
In-Reply-To: <000401d57817$b3db91f0$1b92b5d0$@msystech.com>
References: <000401d57817$b3db91f0$1b92b5d0$@msystech.com>
Message-ID: <52C8C712-FA75-4B17-AE28-9E127F163EF1@aol.com>

Hello, Sounds a bit pricey . Larry Schwartz

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 1, 2019, at 1:18 AM, Jeff Nathanson <jeffn at msystech.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Hello,
>  
> I?m looking to have my ?72 TR6 painted. However there are  2 restoration/paint places near me, (Philadelphia area).  They are both say that it?s going to cost about $15,000. There is nothing wrong with my car mechanically. And the current paint job is not that bad. But the engine bay is the (original  ???) black. And the frame night need some alignment. The doors do not align exactly. I?m not looking for a car show looking vehicle. But I don?t want a Maaco job either. Does anyone have  any suggestions?
>  
> Thanks,
> Jeff Nathanson
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/l1j1s at aol.com
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From tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net  Sun Oct  6 14:32:33 2019
From: tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net (Tomislav Marincic)
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 2019 16:32:33 -0400
Subject: [TR] Pain job for 1972 TR6
Message-ID: <A3E3DF18-3BE5-4EB0-9C26-28E853DB9F60@earthlink.net>

Can?t advise about the paint without seeing the car and knowing the scope of the work. However, I will say that people who do work on ?modern? cars are completely unprepared for TR6 door gaps. These cars did not fit all that well when they were brand new. I would never allow my frame to be ?aligned? with the body tub.

When I did my body-off restoration, my painter shimmed the body too much in back in order to get good gaps on the doors. (The frame was straightened and powdercoated.) I didn?t notice until it was time to install the rear bumper, and I had to shim that in order to clear the holes in the body.

My advice is to make sure the frame needs straightening without reference to how the body looks, then do the best you can with the gaps. That?s how they did it in Coventry.

Best, Tom
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From dave at ranteer.com  Sun Oct  6 16:06:25 2019
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 2019 17:06:25 -0500
Subject: [TR] Pain job for 1972 TR6
In-Reply-To: <A3E3DF18-3BE5-4EB0-9C26-28E853DB9F60@earthlink.net>
References: <A3E3DF18-3BE5-4EB0-9C26-28E853DB9F60@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <001701d57c92$4cbbe770$e633b650$@ranteer.com>

I?ll just add that it is an art.  You can?t just shim one section and expect it not to affect other parts of the body.  

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Tomislav Marincic
Sent: Sunday, October 6, 2019 3:33 PM
To: L1j1s at aol.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Pain job for 1972 TR6

 

Can?t advise about the paint without seeing the car and knowing the scope of the work. However, I will say that people who do work on ?modern? cars are completely unprepared for TR6 door gaps. These cars did not fit all that well when they were brand new. I would never allow my frame to be ?aligned? with the body tub.

 

When I did my body-off restoration, my painter shimmed the body too much in back in order to get good gaps on the doors. (The frame was straightened and powdercoated.) I didn?t notice until it was time to install the rear bumper, and I had to shim that in order to clear the holes in the body.

 

My advice is to make sure the frame needs straightening without reference to how the body looks, then do the best you can with the gaps. That?s how they did it in Coventry.

 

Best, Tom

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From allen.k.hess at gmail.com  Sun Oct  6 17:50:42 2019
From: allen.k.hess at gmail.com (Allen Hess)
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 2019 19:50:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] Paint job for 1972 TR6
Message-ID: <4CDEF57E-356F-4AF4-8B3E-D3021A073819@gmail.com>

Do you belong to a club (Delaware Valley Triumphs)? Ask other members. Not knowing what ?Philadelphia area? encompasses here are a few.

Motor Car Garage in Maple Shade NJ. They have a TR6 in progress:
https://www.motorcar-garage.com/gallery/1972-triumph-tr6/

Further afield north, there is Ragtops and Roadsters in Perkasie, PA. 
Triumph Rescue in Bally, PA and K&T Vintage Sportscars in Bethlehem, PA. They all do concours restorations. 

If you?re looking to do the engine compartment, that could entail a lot of hours disassembly and reassembly. Engine out (?), radiator, brakes, lines, wiring etc.
You say that the paint is not that bad, maybe a professional detailing would be an option. Not a $200 job done in a day but a really concours sort of job. 

Allen

> 
>> On Oct 1, 2019, at 1:18 AM, Jeff Nathanson <jeffn at msystech.com> wrote:
>> 
>> ?
>> Hello,
>>  
>> I?m looking to have my ?72 TR6 painted. However there are  2 restoration/paint places near me, (Philadelphia area).  They are both say that it?s going to cost about $15,000. There is nothing wrong with my car mechanically. And the current paint job is not that bad. But the engine bay is the (original  ???) black. And the frame night need some alignment. The doors do not align exactly. I?m not looking for a car show looking vehicle. But I don?t want a Maaco job either. Does anyone have  any suggestions?
>>  
>> Thanks,
>> Jeff Nathanson
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/l1j1s at aol.com
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From binduni at gmail.com  Sun Oct  6 22:07:03 2019
From: binduni at gmail.com (Brian Induni)
Date: Sun, 6 Oct 2019 21:07:03 -0700
Subject: [TR] Paint job for 1972 TR6
In-Reply-To: <mailman.11.1570384803.27465.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.11.1570384803.27465.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <CAHYQcSXx-eDaN=tpi-t_e0wt7keVso+8Etba19P7CrPbnWzFkg@mail.gmail.com>

Hey Jeff. Well, a "paint job" is a very relative conversation. If the
engine bay is black then it's been repainted - someone correct me if I'm
wrong but Triumph painted the engine bay body color. And are you saying the
frame DOES need to be straightened or are the paint shops saying that
because the door gaps don't line up? If they are telling you that based on
the door gaps, find another shop that actually knows Triumphs (or any
British car for that matter...).

As for cost, $15k for a paint job needs some quantification - what are they
doing for that price? My guess is they will spend 1 to 2 days sanding the
whole car, then they are accounting for 1 day of basic/minor repairs. If
they need to do ANY metal work, there could be 2-3 more days added. Then
there is 1-2 days of primer/sealer and sanding. Then 1 day of painting, 1
day of curing, 1-2 days of cut & buff. This is assuming you go single stage
paint and not color/clear coat.

My experience is that materials alone cost $2-3k and I do my own painting.
So at $125 / hour, a 12 day project will be ~$12k, then add in $3k for
supplies and viola - $15k. And that's not even doing any body work! I've
seen shops that can do much better than that, but you'll need to find one
that knows British cars or one that will work with you on the project.

Hope this helps.

Brian


> > ?
> > Hello,
> >
> > I?m looking to have my ?72 TR6 painted. However there are  2
> restoration/paint places near me, (Philadelphia area).  They are both say
> that it?s going to cost about $15,000. There is nothing wrong with my car
> mechanically. And the current paint job is not that bad. But the engine bay
> is the (original  ???) black. And the frame night need some alignment. The
> doors do not align exactly. I?m not looking for a car show looking vehicle.
> But I don?t want a Maaco job either. Does anyone have  any suggestions?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Jeff Nathanson
> > ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> >
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 12, Issue 225
> *****************************************
>
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From mclans at sbcglobal.net  Mon Oct  7 13:58:25 2019
From: mclans at sbcglobal.net (Gene M)
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2019 19:58:25 +0000
Subject: [TR] Pain job for 1972 TR6
In-Reply-To: <mailman.10.1570471204.5536.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.10.1570471204.5536.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <BYAPR07MB515792EB6D98CFB1232C849DBD9B0@BYAPR07MB5157.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>

Over 40 years ago I was researching matching paint for my 70 TR6 after an accident (I still have it).  The car was painted white after someone had sprayed it with candy apple metallic red.  Stripping down paint on body panels, the original lacquer paint were red, dark green and yellow.  I had seen other white TR6's but my research at the paint supplier showed that white was not an original TR6 color.  The color I went with was Jaguar white.

The shop that painted the car had problems with the paint at the seams between the panels cracked--they had tried some fillers to fill in gaps.  Turns out the panels pretty much just hang on the frame and flex independently because they are held on by "square threaded" bolts, which do not pull sheet metal panels together like modern sheet metal screws or fasteners.  Back then I was not able to locate these square threaded bolts from any source, including a local hardware store that had been around since the early 1900's.

The other thing I found out by bringing in a panel to that hardware store to get fasteners was that WW II veterans recognized that this came from a British car because the British would dip their metal parts for everything in vats of lacquer paint and air dry them since their weather would immediately rust everything.  That's why original TR panels, including every nook and cranny have the same color paint.  And if you scrape the color coat--no primer.

I went to a lot of "pick and pull" auto wreckers in the 70's trying to find body panels and these square threaded bolts were on all of them.  When I tried to connect panels with these original bolts, the bolts would not cinch the panels together tightly and would quickly fracture if I tried to torque them down.  If you find a panel where the bolt holes are deformed or you don't find paint inside the hole, it probably was put on after a replacement.

So a black engine compartment was probably sprayed over the original panels because the car is pieced together from panels that didn't have the same original color, or maybe it was sprayed with a high temp paint.

The biggest problem with lacquer dipped panels is eventually there will be lacquer check.  Spraying stuff on top can hide it for awhile, but eventually the checking goes through the new sealants and top coats (maybe there are new sealants that can prevent this that have been developed over the last 40 years, but I doubt it since all of the "solids" that used to be available as fillers in paint are gone, and those old ones would not stop the lacquer checking, just hide it for awhile.

Anyone remember the debate in the 60's on Ford with its enamel paint and orange peel problems, versus G.M. with its smooth lacquer finish which probably wouldn't start checking while you still owned the car.

All my info came way before the internet and I didn't look for my old notes when I was trying to keep my 70 TR6 original.  My research showed mine was pieced together and very little was original from the same car, and I never did find a TR6 in the boneyard that had all color matching panels when you pull panels apart and and look at the color of the seams.

Anyone else come across these square threaded bolts?

Gene M.
70 TR6
Sacramento, CA


Anyone know if there are urethane paints that can be sprayed over lacquer and will
<original post>  Hey Jeff. Well, a "paint job" is a very relative conversation. If the
engine bay is black then it's been repainted - someone correct me if I'm
wrong but Triumph painted the engine bay body color.



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From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com  Mon Oct  7 14:02:54 2019
From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad)
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2019 20:02:54 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Pain job for 1972 TR6
In-Reply-To: <BYAPR07MB515792EB6D98CFB1232C849DBD9B0@BYAPR07MB5157.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
References: <mailman.10.1570471204.5536.triumphs@autox.team.net>
 <BYAPR07MB515792EB6D98CFB1232C849DBD9B0@BYAPR07MB5157.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <1342882361.5061610.1570478574973@mail.yahoo.com>

 I have never encountered what I would consider a "square" threaded bolt in almost 30 years of working on TR6's.? Maybe that is a descriptor I am unaware of.
Chad in Tulsa.
    On Monday, October 7, 2019, 02:58:58 PM CDT, Gene M <mclans at sbcglobal.net> wrote:  
 
  Over 40 years ago I was researching matching paint for my 70 TR6 after an accident (I still have it).? The car was painted white after someone had sprayed it with candy apple metallic red.? Stripping down paint on body panels, the original lacquer paint were red, dark green and yellow.? I had seen other white TR6's but my research at the paint supplier showed that white was not an original TR6 color.? The color I went with was Jaguar white.??
The shop that painted the car had problems with the paint at the seams between the panels cracked--they had tried some fillers to fill in gaps.? Turns out the panels pretty much just hang on the frame and flex independently because they are held on by "square threaded" bolts, which do not pull sheet metal panels together like modern sheet metal screws or fasteners.? Back then I was not able to locate these square threaded bolts from any source, including a local hardware store that had been around since the early 1900's.
The other thing I found out by bringing in a panel to that hardware store to get fasteners was that WW II veterans recognized that this came from a British car because the British would dip their metal parts for everything in vats of lacquer paint and air dry them since their weather would immediately rust everything.? That's why original TR panels, including every nook and cranny have the same color paint.? And if you scrape the color coat--no primer.
I went to a lot of "pick and pull" auto wreckers in the 70's trying to find body panels and these square threaded bolts were on all of them.? When I tried to connect panels with these original bolts, the bolts would not cinch the panels together tightly and would quickly fracture if I tried to torque them down.? If you find a panel where the bolt holes are deformed or you don't find paint inside the hole, it probably was put on after a replacement.
So a black engine compartment was probably sprayed over the original panels because the car is pieced together from panels that didn't have the same original color, or maybe it was sprayed with a high temp paint.
The biggest problem with lacquer dipped panels is eventually there will be lacquer check.? Spraying stuff on top can hide it for awhile, but eventually the checking goes through the new sealants and top coats (maybe there are new sealants that can prevent this that have been developed over the last 40 years, but I doubt it since all of the "solids" that used to be available as fillers in paint are gone, and those old ones would not stop the lacquer checking, just hide it for awhile.
Anyone remember the debate in the 60's on Ford with its enamel paint and orange peel problems, versus G.M. with its smooth lacquer finish which probably wouldn't start checking while you still owned the car.
All my info came way before the internet and I didn't look for my old notes when I was trying to keep my 70 TR6 original.? My research showed mine was pieced together and very little was original from the same car, and I never did find a TR6 in the boneyard that had all color matching panels when you pull panels apart and and look at the color of the seams.??
Anyone else come across these square threaded bolts?
Gene M.70 TR6Sacramento, CA

Anyone know if there are urethane paints that can be sprayed over lacquer and will?<original post>? Hey Jeff. Well, a "paint job" is a very relative conversation. If the
engine bay is black then it's been repainted - someone correct me if I'm
wrong but Triumph painted the engine bay body color.?

?
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com
  
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From jat1127 at hotmail.com  Mon Oct  7 14:19:10 2019
From: jat1127 at hotmail.com (j t)
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2019 20:19:10 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR6 paint
Message-ID: <BL0PR05MB49798B671B1683E5BE71BC2BB59B0@BL0PR05MB4979.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>

Listers,

 I recently did a bare metal refinish on my TR8 coupe. I had NOT intended to do so........started out as a touch up and then.........

 My pal has a water blasting system that mixes in a media. We used coal dust...aka Black Beauty. It completely stripped the car in a short two hours with NO panel warpage. Then it took 5 hours the next day with two orbital grinders using 220 grid to cut down the roughage caused by the BB.  In twelve hours we had a very good result. Cost $100 a bag of BB x 3 bags.

 If one is going redo an older car I suggest this be considered.

 As for a TR frame I would get the shell off it and be sure it measures  correctly. Then I would add various bracing. Then fit the body.

 Yes, getting the gaps is an art !


CHEERS

John Taylor

133 Barton RD

Greenfield MA 01301 USA


My Flickr Album<https://www.flickr.com/photos/taylored-photos>

Web site :  johntaylor.photos

Member -  Brattleboro Camera Club<http://brattleborocameraclub.com/>

                Vermont Center for Photography
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From John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk  Mon Oct  7 14:36:30 2019
From: John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2019 21:36:30 +0100
Subject: [TR] Pain job for 1972 TR6
In-Reply-To: <BYAPR07MB515792EB6D98CFB1232C849DBD9B0@BYAPR07MB5157.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
References: <mailman.10.1570471204.5536.triumphs@autox.team.net>
 <BYAPR07MB515792EB6D98CFB1232C849DBD9B0@BYAPR07MB5157.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <8FDE9891-7989-4265-AEC4-4830B4CA06EC@Ukpips.org.uk>

In the ten years I worked at StandardTriumph in Coventry (1965-1975) I would comment as follows:

1. White was always available as an original colour on all models with tan, black or red trim.

2. All hardware (AFAIR) was either zinc or phosphated, except for Scandinavia which required another plating type which I now forget. On the many occasions I was on the assembly lines or in the paint shop, at no time do I recall seeing any type of hardware being painted in any body colour before fitment.

3. If I?ve read the post correctly, it seems you feel body panels were a sort of pick and mix in any colour before final painting? No way! All bodies for all markets and all models came out of the body shop in white undercoat prior to going through the paint shop in colour batches, with cars in black being painted only on Friday afternoons. This was intentional as Black was not a popular colour and allowed the spray lines to be flushed through prior to paint shop cleaning over the weekend.

Hope the foregoing helps to clear doubts and the buildup of myths

Jonmac

Whenever I feel the need for exercise, experience has shown me it is better to lie down until the feeling goes away. WINSTON CHURCHILL

> On 7 Oct 2019, at 20:58, Gene M <mclans at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> 
> Over 40 years ago I was researching matching paint for my 70 TR6 after an accident (I still have it).  The car was painted white after someone had sprayed it with candy apple metallic red.  Stripping down paint on body panels, the original lacquer paint were red, dark green and yellow.  I had seen other white TR6's but my research at the paint supplier showed that white was not an original TR6 color.  The color I went with was Jaguar white.  
> 
> The shop that painted the car had problems with the paint at the seams between the panels cracked--they had tried some fillers to fill in gaps.  Turns out the panels pretty much just hang on the frame and flex independently because they are held on by "square threaded" bolts, which do not pull sheet metal panels together like modern sheet metal screws or fasteners.  Back then I was not able to locate these square threaded bolts from any source, including a local hardware store that had been around since the early 1900's.
> 
> The other thing I found out by bringing in a panel to that hardware store to get fasteners was that WW II veterans recognized that this came from a British car because the British would dip their metal parts for everything in vats of lacquer paint and air dry them since their weather would immediately rust everything.  That's why original TR panels, including every nook and cranny have the same color paint.  And if you scrape the color coat--no primer.
> 
> I went to a lot of "pick and pull" auto wreckers in the 70's trying to find body panels and these square threaded bolts were on all of them.  When I tried to connect panels with these original bolts, the bolts would not cinch the panels together tightly and would quickly fracture if I tried to torque them down.  If you find a panel where the bolt holes are deformed or you don't find paint inside the hole, it probably was put on after a replacement.
> 
> So a black engine compartment was probably sprayed over the original panels because the car is pieced together from panels that didn't have the same original color, or maybe it was sprayed with a high temp paint.
> 
> The biggest problem with lacquer dipped panels is eventually there will be lacquer check.  Spraying stuff on top can hide it for awhile, but eventually the checking goes through the new sealants and top coats (maybe there are new sealants that can prevent this that have been developed over the last 40 years, but I doubt it since all of the "solids" that used to be available as fillers in paint are gone, and those old ones would not stop the lacquer checking, just hide it for awhile.
> 
> Anyone remember the debate in the 60's on Ford with its enamel paint and orange peel problems, versus G.M. with its smooth lacquer finish which probably wouldn't start checking while you still owned the car.
> 
> All my info came way before the internet and I didn't look for my old notes when I was trying to keep my 70 TR6 original.  My research showed mine was pieced together and very little was original from the same car, and I never did find a TR6 in the boneyard that had all color matching panels when you pull panels apart and and look at the color of the seams.  
> 
> Anyone else come across these square threaded bolts?
> 
> Gene M.
> 70 TR6
> Sacramento, CA
> 
> 
> Anyone know if there are urethane paints that can be sprayed over lacquer and will 
> <original post>  Hey Jeff. Well, a "paint job" is a very relative conversation. If the
> engine bay is black then it's been repainted - someone correct me if I'm
> wrong but Triumph painted the engine bay body color. 
> 
> 
>  
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk
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From John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk  Mon Oct  7 14:39:41 2019
From: John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2019 21:39:41 +0100
Subject: [TR] TR6 paint
In-Reply-To: <BL0PR05MB49798B671B1683E5BE71BC2BB59B0@BL0PR05MB4979.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
References: <BL0PR05MB49798B671B1683E5BE71BC2BB59B0@BL0PR05MB4979.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <8558E6AA-5CBE-4425-9E58-4CEE43E8681C@Ukpips.org.uk>

If it helps you John, very few TRs of any type up to the end of the 6 ever left the factory with consistent panel gaps! If any did ever escape in such a condition, it was purely accidental.

Jonmac

Whenever I feel the need for exercise, experience has shown me it is better to lie down until the feeling goes away. WINSTON CHURCHILL

> On 7 Oct 2019, at 21:19, j t <jat1127 at hotmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Listers,
> 
>  I recently did a bare metal refinish on my TR8 coupe. I had NOT intended to do so........started out as a touch up and then.........
> 
>  My pal has a water blasting system that mixes in a media. We used coal dust...aka Black Beauty. It completely stripped the car in a short two hours with NO panel warpage. Then it took 5 hours the next day with two orbital grinders using 220 grid to cut down the roughage caused by the BB.  In twelve hours we had a very good result. Cost $100 a bag of BB x 3 bags.
> 
>  If one is going redo an older car I suggest this be considered.
> 
>  As for a TR frame I would get the shell off it and be sure it measures  correctly. Then I would add various bracing. Then fit the body.
> 
>  Yes, getting the gaps is an art ! 
> 
> CHEERS
> John Taylor
> 133 Barton RD
> Greenfield MA 01301 USA
> 
> My Flickr Album  
> Web site :  johntaylor.photos
> Member -  Brattleboro Camera Club
>                 Vermont Center for Photography
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk
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From dconnitt at fuse.net  Mon Oct  7 14:50:00 2019
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2019 16:50:00 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 paint
In-Reply-To: <8558E6AA-5CBE-4425-9E58-4CEE43E8681C@Ukpips.org.uk>
References: <8558E6AA-5CBE-4425-9E58-4CEE43E8681C@Ukpips.org.uk>
Message-ID: <44550765-3D86-44C7-8B4D-C6D3643BD0F5@fuse.net>

I have to second Jon Mac?s comment about panel gaps. I think done if use kind of get wrapped around the axle regarding panel fit, etc.
Regarding paint, I painted my TR4A about 5 years ago now and just the primer, base and clear was just under $1,000.00. Oh, don?t forget the air supplied respirator, compressor and gun! Granted, I bought a lot of equipment that I could have sold ?to the next guy? and I did but painting a car isn?t an inexpensive task regardless.
Dave Connitt 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 7, 2019, at 4:39 PM, John Macartney <John.Macartney at ukpips.org.uk> wrote:
> 
> ?If it helps you John, very few TRs of any type up to the end of the 6 ever left the factory with consistent panel gaps! If any did ever escape in such a condition, it was purely accidental.
> 
> Jonmac
> 
> Whenever I feel the need for exercise, experience has shown me it is better to lie down until the feeling goes away. WINSTON CHURCHILL
> 
>> On 7 Oct 2019, at 21:19, j t <jat1127 at hotmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Listers,
>> 
>>  I recently did a bare metal refinish on my TR8 coupe. I had NOT intended to do so........started out as a touch up and then.........
>> 
>>  My pal has a water blasting system that mixes in a media. We used coal dust...aka Black Beauty. It completely stripped the car in a short two hours with NO panel warpage. Then it took 5 hours the next day with two orbital grinders using 220 grid to cut down the roughage caused by the BB.  In twelve hours we had a very good result. Cost $100 a bag of BB x 3 bags.
>> 
>>  If one is going redo an older car I suggest this be considered.
>> 
>>  As for a TR frame I would get the shell off it and be sure it measures  correctly. Then I would add various bracing. Then fit the body.
>> 
>>  Yes, getting the gaps is an art ! 
>> 
>> CHEERS
>> John Taylor
>> 133 Barton RD
>> Greenfield MA 01301 USA
>> 
>> My Flickr Album  
>> Web site :  johntaylor.photos
>> Member -  Brattleboro Camera Club
>>                 Vermont Center for Photography
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dconnitt at fuse.net
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From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com  Mon Oct  7 14:51:34 2019
From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad)
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2019 20:51:34 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR6 paint
In-Reply-To: <BL0PR05MB49798B671B1683E5BE71BC2BB59B0@BL0PR05MB4979.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
References: <BL0PR05MB49798B671B1683E5BE71BC2BB59B0@BL0PR05MB4979.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <1446212061.5099175.1570481494756@mail.yahoo.com>

 Oh good golly......I would never use black beauty on a car body.? That is an abrasive we use in the industry to remove extremely hard deposits like Blue Blush from very thick / heavy steam turbine valve components.? I would be extremely worried about base material removal in your case.
Chad in Tulsa
    On Monday, October 7, 2019, 03:19:17 PM CDT, j t <jat1127 at hotmail.com> wrote:  
 
  Listers,
?I recently did a bare metal refinish on my TR8 coupe. I had NOT intended to do so........started out as a touch up and then.........
?My pal has a water blasting system that mixes in a media. We used coal dust...aka Black Beauty. It completely stripped the car in a short two hours with NO panel warpage. Then it took 5 hours the next day with two orbital grinders using 220 grid to cut down the roughage caused by the BB. ?In twelve hours we had a very good result. Cost $100 a bag of BB x 3 bags.
?If one is going redo an older car I suggest this be considered.
?As for a TR frame I would get the shell off it and be sure it measures ?correctly. Then I would add various bracing. Then fit the body.
?Yes, getting the gaps is an art !?

CHEERS

John Taylor

133 Barton RD

Greenfield MA 01301 USA




My Flickr Album??


Web site : ?johntaylor.photos


Member -??Brattleboro Camera Club


? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?Vermont Center for Photography
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From mclans at sbcglobal.net  Mon Oct  7 15:15:58 2019
From: mclans at sbcglobal.net (Gene M)
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2019 21:15:58 +0000
Subject: [TR] Pain job for 1972 TR6
In-Reply-To: <1342882361.5061610.1570478574973@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <mailman.10.1570471204.5536.triumphs@autox.team.net>
 <BYAPR07MB515792EB6D98CFB1232C849DBD9B0@BYAPR07MB5157.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>,
 <1342882361.5061610.1570478574973@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BYAPR07MB51575D149397A296A1AAAE6DBD9B0@BYAPR07MB5157.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>

Chad,

Diameter of the bolt is the same on the entire shaft instead of tapered like a modern sheet metal screw, and threads were squared off and smooth instead of the angled with a machine bite like a sheet metal screw.

I need to clean out my garage in the next year or two and I'll post a pic when I locate these bolts.  I never found a source for these, including The Roadster Factory or Moss Motors.  Only this WW II veteran identified it--didn't know where to get it or what it was called.

Have you seen an original  TR6 body panel that had primer next to bare metal?  I don't know if it is true what the hardware store WW II employee told me about the Brits dipping every metal part in lacquer paint.  This vet told me during WW II they had these big vats in the barns in rural England and all the metal fabricated parts for everything were dipped and air dried to prevent rust.  These parts would hang there and be available for the war effort.  He figured maybe after WW II ended, these vats with the lacquer paint and the malleable metal parts that could be re-pressed into what my car was made from.

All good since the result was the TR6.

Gene M.
70 TR6
Sacramento, CA
________________________________
From: Chad <triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com>
Sent: Monday, October 7, 2019 1:02 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>; Gene M <mclans at sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Pain job for 1972 TR6

I have never encountered what I would consider a "square" threaded bolt in almost 30 years of working on TR6's.  Maybe that is a descriptor I am unaware of.

Chad in Tulsa.



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From John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk  Mon Oct  7 15:47:10 2019
From: John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2019 22:47:10 +0100
Subject: [TR] Pain job for 1972 TR6
In-Reply-To: <BYAPR07MB51575D149397A296A1AAAE6DBD9B0@BYAPR07MB5157.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
References: <mailman.10.1570471204.5536.triumphs@autox.team.net>
 <BYAPR07MB515792EB6D98CFB1232C849DBD9B0@BYAPR07MB5157.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
 <1342882361.5061610.1570478574973@mail.yahoo.com>
 <BYAPR07MB51575D149397A296A1AAAE6DBD9B0@BYAPR07MB5157.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <A5DD67A9-F3FC-4EBA-985A-A26D5786234B@Ukpips.org.uk>

In the 23 odd years I?ve been on this list, I don?t think I?ve laughed so much at a ww2 veterans observation of manufacturing life in this country during the conflict. Get this. Manufacturing of anything to do with the prosecution of the war in the U.K. was strictly off limits to anyone not directly involved in it. As for farms being involved, all the farms were going flat out doing everything possible to feed the population. Hitlers U Boats nearly starved us out and farms had far more important things to do that paint hardware and let it dry. This poppycock is as way out of the window as myths I?ve seen in the past on this list that Triumphs were built using whatever happened to be available, or E type Jaguars were built in a factory with rusty metal walls as cladding and earth floors!!

Jonmac

Whenever I feel the need for exercise, experience has shown me it is better to lie down until the feeling goes away. WINSTON CHURCHILL

> On 7 Oct 2019, at 22:15, Gene M <mclans at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> 
> Chad,
> 
> Diameter of the bolt is the same on the entire shaft instead of tapered like a modern sheet metal screw, and threads were squared off and smooth instead of the angled with a machine bite like a sheet metal screw.  
> 
> I need to clean out my garage in the next year or two and I'll post a pic when I locate these bolts.  I never found a source for these, including The Roadster Factory or Moss Motors.  Only this WW II veteran identified it--didn't know where to get it or what it was called.  
> 
> Have you seen an original  TR6 body panel that had primer next to bare metal?  I don't know if it is true what the hardware store WW II employee told me about the Brits dipping every metal part in lacquer paint.  This vet told me during WW II they had these big vats in the barns in rural England and all the metal fabricated parts for everything were dipped and air dried to prevent rust.  These parts would hang there and be available for the war effort.  He figured maybe after WW II ended, these vats with the lacquer paint and the malleable metal parts that could be re-pressed into what my car was made from.  
> 
> All good since the result was the TR6.  
> 
> Gene M.
> 70 TR6
> Sacramento, CA
> From: Chad <triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com>
> Sent: Monday, October 7, 2019 1:02 PM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>; Gene M <mclans at sbcglobal.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] Pain job for 1972 TR6
>  
> I have never encountered what I would consider a "square" threaded bolt in almost 30 years of working on TR6's.  Maybe that is a descriptor I am unaware of.
> 
> Chad in Tulsa.
> 
> 
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk
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From mdporter at dfn.com  Mon Oct  7 17:31:08 2019
From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter)
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2019 17:31:08 -0600
Subject: [TR] Pain job for 1972 TR6
In-Reply-To: <BYAPR07MB51575D149397A296A1AAAE6DBD9B0@BYAPR07MB5157.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
References: <mailman.10.1570471204.5536.triumphs@autox.team.net>
 <BYAPR07MB515792EB6D98CFB1232C849DBD9B0@BYAPR07MB5157.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
 <1342882361.5061610.1570478574973@mail.yahoo.com>
 <BYAPR07MB51575D149397A296A1AAAE6DBD9B0@BYAPR07MB5157.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <ea419359-35a1-1bea-b0c0-42261f28ab7e@dfn.com>

On 10/7/2019 3:15 PM, Gene M wrote:
> Chad,
>
> Diameter of the bolt is the same on the entire shaft instead of 
> tapered like a modern sheet metal screw, and threads were squared off 
> and smooth instead of the angled with a machine bite like a sheet 
> metal screw.


These are not exactly unique.? In the industry, I think they were 
branded as Spirox screws, and are generically known as "christmas tree" 
screws.? They are straight-shank, but have a conical, pointed end, with 
a modified Acme thread.? They're made to be received by a similar nut 
encapsulated in a stamped sheet metal clip.? And they're quite adequate 
for securing sheet metal panels--the panels certainly don't just hang on 
them.? Otherwise, the car--even when new--would be a rolling symphony of 
rattles and creaks and knocks.

>
> Have you seen an original? TR6 body panel that had primer next to bare 
> metal?? I don't know if it is true what the hardware store WW II 
> employee told me about the Brits dipping every metal part in lacquer 
> paint.? This vet told me during WW II they had these big vats in the 
> barns in rural England and all the metal fabricated parts for 
> everything were dipped and air dried to prevent rust.? These parts 
> would hang there and be available for the war effort.

> He figured maybe after WW II ended, these vats with the lacquer paint 
> and the malleable metal parts that could be re-pressed into what my 
> car was made from.
>
> He's probably pulling your leg (or was an idiot), given that the TR6 
> began life twenty-four years after the end of the war.? Yes, there 
> were probably leftover parts, but they went with the war materiel in 
> other conflicts (the Brits were fighting what they called the "Malay 
> Emergency" beginning in 1948 and also had about ten percent of UN's 
> forces in the Korean War beginning in 1950).? Given the extreme 
> shortages of everything in the UK post-war, the chances were very high 
> that unused steel stampings were resmelted.? I think John McC. can 
> attest to the fact that the bodies of everything made at Coventry were 
> made from virgin sheet metal and not made of leftover Doncaster 
> floorboards.



Cheers.


-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....

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From terryrs at comcast.net  Mon Oct  7 17:43:18 2019
From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH)
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2019 19:43:18 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] new question re. panel spacing
In-Reply-To: <ea419359-35a1-1bea-b0c0-42261f28ab7e@dfn.com>
References: <mailman.10.1570471204.5536.triumphs@autox.team.net>
 <BYAPR07MB515792EB6D98CFB1232C849DBD9B0@BYAPR07MB5157.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
 <1342882361.5061610.1570478574973@mail.yahoo.com>
 <BYAPR07MB51575D149397A296A1AAAE6DBD9B0@BYAPR07MB5157.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
 <ea419359-35a1-1bea-b0c0-42261f28ab7e@dfn.com>
Message-ID: <9884518.352591.1570491798959@connect.xfinity.com>

So my TR3 has a hood  that lifts above the valence.  How does one drop it to be level with the valence?


terry smith

new hampshire





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From terryrs at comcast.net  Mon Oct  7 17:49:05 2019
From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH)
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2019 19:49:05 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] new question re. panel spacing
In-Reply-To: <9884518.352591.1570491798959@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <mailman.10.1570471204.5536.triumphs@autox.team.net>
 <BYAPR07MB515792EB6D98CFB1232C849DBD9B0@BYAPR07MB5157.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
 <1342882361.5061610.1570478574973@mail.yahoo.com>
 <BYAPR07MB51575D149397A296A1AAAE6DBD9B0@BYAPR07MB5157.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
 <ea419359-35a1-1bea-b0c0-42261f28ab7e@dfn.com>
 <9884518.352591.1570491798959@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <2116916247.352677.1570492145411@connect.xfinity.com>

Oh.  And what again is the british word for "hood"?

> On October 7, 2019 at 7:43 PM TERRY SMITH <terryrs at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> 
>     So my TR3 has a hood  that lifts above the valence.  How does one drop it to be level with the valence?
> 
> 
>     terry smith
> 
>     new hampshire
> 
> 
> 
>      
> 
> 
> 
> 


 

> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
> 
>     Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at comcast.net
> 


 
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From mclans at sbcglobal.net  Mon Oct  7 17:51:04 2019
From: mclans at sbcglobal.net (Gene M)
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2019 23:51:04 +0000
Subject: [TR] new question re. panel spacing
In-Reply-To: <2116916247.352677.1570492145411@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <mailman.10.1570471204.5536.triumphs@autox.team.net>
 <BYAPR07MB515792EB6D98CFB1232C849DBD9B0@BYAPR07MB5157.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
 <1342882361.5061610.1570478574973@mail.yahoo.com>
 <BYAPR07MB51575D149397A296A1AAAE6DBD9B0@BYAPR07MB5157.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
 <ea419359-35a1-1bea-b0c0-42261f28ab7e@dfn.com>
 <9884518.352591.1570491798959@connect.xfinity.com>,
 <2116916247.352677.1570492145411@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <BYAPR07MB5157134454C043445A6E0842BD9B0@BYAPR07MB5157.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>

Bonnet?

________________________________
From: TERRY SMITH <terryrs at comcast.net>
Sent: Monday, October 7, 2019 4:49 PM
To: Michael Porter <mdporter at dfn.com>; Gene M <mclans at sbcglobal.net>; Chad <triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com>; triumphs at autox.team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] new question re. panel spacing


Oh.  And what again is the british word for "hood"?

On October 7, 2019 at 7:43 PM TERRY SMITH <terryrs at comcast.net> wrote:


So my TR3 has a hood  that lifts above the valence.  How does one drop it to be level with the valence?


terry smith

new hampshire










** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive

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From terryrs at comcast.net  Mon Oct  7 17:59:38 2019
From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH)
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2019 19:59:38 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] new question re. panel spacing
In-Reply-To: <BYAPR07MB5157134454C043445A6E0842BD9B0@BYAPR07MB5157.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
References: <mailman.10.1570471204.5536.triumphs@autox.team.net>
 <BYAPR07MB515792EB6D98CFB1232C849DBD9B0@BYAPR07MB5157.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
 <1342882361.5061610.1570478574973@mail.yahoo.com>
 <BYAPR07MB51575D149397A296A1AAAE6DBD9B0@BYAPR07MB5157.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
 <ea419359-35a1-1bea-b0c0-42261f28ab7e@dfn.com>
 <9884518.352591.1570491798959@connect.xfinity.com>,
 <2116916247.352677.1570492145411@connect.xfinity.com>
 <BYAPR07MB5157134454C043445A6E0842BD9B0@BYAPR07MB5157.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <888912784.433757.1570492779213@connect.xfinity.com>

Yeah.  That's it.


> On October 7, 2019 at 7:51 PM Gene M <mclans at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> 
>     Bonnet?
>      
> 
> 
>     ---------------------------------------------
>     From: TERRY SMITH <terryrs at comcast.net>
>     Sent: Monday, October 7, 2019 4:49 PM
>     To: Michael Porter <mdporter at dfn.com>; Gene M <mclans at sbcglobal.net>; Chad <triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com>; triumphs at autox.team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>     Subject: Re: [TR] new question re. panel spacing
>      
> 
>     Oh.  And what again is the british word for "hood"?
> 
>         > > On October 7, 2019 at 7:43 PM TERRY SMITH <terryrs at comcast.net> wrote:
> > 
> > 
> >         So my TR3 has a hood  that lifts above the valence.  How does one drop it to be level with the valence?
> > 
> > 
> >         terry smith
> > 
> >         new hampshire
> > 
> > 
> > 
> >          
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> >     > 
> 
>      
> 
>         > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> > 
> >         Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >         Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
> > 
> >         Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at comcast.net
> > 
> >     > 
> 
>      
> 


 

> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
> 
>     Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at comcast.net
> 


 
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From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Oct  7 18:39:19 2019
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2019 17:39:19 -0700
Subject: [TR] Pain job for 1972 TR6
In-Reply-To: <1342882361.5061610.1570478574973@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <mailman.10.1570471204.5536.triumphs@autox.team.net>
 <BYAPR07MB515792EB6D98CFB1232C849DBD9B0@BYAPR07MB5157.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
 <1342882361.5061610.1570478574973@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <B1216A251B934621B37DC0EA1B16F8E6@RYPC>


> I have never encountered what I would consider a "square" 
> threaded bolt in almost 30 years of working on TR6's.  Maybe 
> that is a descriptor I am unaware of.

P/N UL2705, described as "Screw - Hexagon - Acme thread" in the standard
hardware catalog.  Like Michael said, they engage with what the catalog
calls "Fix Nut - Simmons ACME 'J' type" (prefix FA) or else "Fix Nut -
Simmons 'J' type" (prefix FJ).  I've attached a clip from the SPC.

Clamping force is definitely limited, they aren't as strong as a regular
bolt and nut.  But the "square" ACME threads are actually a bit stronger
than using regular V threads in a clip nut.  They should be able to hold a
fender in place, but perhaps not strong enough to distort it to fit.

The reproductions I got from TRF some years ago did not have pointed tips,
just a small amount of taper to a more-or-less flat tip.  Originals I found
on my Stag were similar (but not the same length as the TR6 versions, I had
to cut down the TR6 bolts to fit).

-- Randall
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From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Oct  7 18:49:30 2019
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2019 17:49:30 -0700
Subject: [TR] new question re. panel spacing
In-Reply-To: <9884518.352591.1570491798959@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <mailman.10.1570471204.5536.triumphs@autox.team.net>
 <BYAPR07MB515792EB6D98CFB1232C849DBD9B0@BYAPR07MB5157.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
 <1342882361.5061610.1570478574973@mail.yahoo.com>
 <BYAPR07MB51575D149397A296A1AAAE6DBD9B0@BYAPR07MB5157.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
 <ea419359-35a1-1bea-b0c0-42261f28ab7e@dfn.com>
 <9884518.352591.1570491798959@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <ABA8BEF00730475FB42CED178FFEE2E4@RYPC>

'Hood' can be either the panel over the engine, or above the driver's head.

AFAIK, 'valence' refers to a panel that hangs down vertically, like some
cars have below the front bumper.  Don't have one of those on my TR3, it's
one piece with the front and rear aprons.

Assuming you're trying to match the panel over the engine (hood in the US,
bonnet in the UK) to the front apron in front of it, the place to start is
removing the shims under the Dzus button brackets, and backing off the
rubber buffers a little to match.

If that doesn't bring it down far enough, you'll need to do some sheet metal
work on the inner fenders (wings in British) to lower the mounting points.

-- Randall 
56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild
71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On 
> Behalf Of TERRY SMITH
> Sent: Monday, October 07, 2019 4:43 PM
> To: Michael Porter; Gene M; Chad; triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] new question re. panel spacing
> 
> So my TR3 has a hood  that lifts above the valence.  How does 
> one drop it to be level with the valence?


From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com  Mon Oct  7 20:14:30 2019
From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad)
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2019 02:14:30 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Pain job for 1972 TR6
In-Reply-To: <ea419359-35a1-1bea-b0c0-42261f28ab7e@dfn.com>
References: <mailman.10.1570471204.5536.triumphs@autox.team.net>
 <BYAPR07MB515792EB6D98CFB1232C849DBD9B0@BYAPR07MB5157.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
 <1342882361.5061610.1570478574973@mail.yahoo.com>
 <BYAPR07MB51575D149397A296A1AAAE6DBD9B0@BYAPR07MB5157.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
 <ea419359-35a1-1bea-b0c0-42261f28ab7e@dfn.com>
Message-ID: <1924661808.5241222.1570500870389@mail.yahoo.com>

 I haven't encountered anything like that on a TR6 that I can recall......
    On Monday, October 7, 2019, 6:31:20 PM CDT, Michael Porter <mdporter at dfn.com> wrote:  
 
  On 10/7/2019 3:15 PM, Gene M wrote:
  
 
  Chad,  
   Diameter of the bolt is the same on the entire shaft instead of tapered like a modern sheet metal screw, and threads were squared off and smooth instead of the angled with a machine bite like a sheet metal screw. 
   

 
 
These are not exactly unique.? In the industry, I think they were branded as Spirox screws, and are generically known as "christmas tree" screws.? They are straight-shank, but have a conical, pointed end, with a modified Acme thread.? They're made to be received by a similar nut encapsulated in a stamped sheet metal clip.? And they're quite adequate for securing sheet metal panels--the panels certainly don't just hang on them.? Otherwise, the car--even when new--would be a rolling symphony of rattles and creaks and knocks.

  
   
   Have you seen an original? TR6 body panel that had primer next to bare metal?? I don't know if it is true what the hardware store WW II employee told me about the Brits dipping every metal part in lacquer paint.? This vet told me during WW II they had these big vats in the barns in rural England and all the metal fabricated parts for everything were dipped and air  dried to prevent rust.? These parts would hang there and be available for the war effort.?   
 
 
  He figured maybe after WW II ended, these vats with the lacquer paint and the malleable metal parts that could be re-pressed into what my car was made  from.??  
  He's probably pulling your leg (or was an idiot), given that the TR6 began life twenty-four years after the end of the war.? Yes, there were probably leftover parts, but they went with the war materiel in other conflicts (the Brits were fighting what they called the "Malay  Emergency" beginning in 1948 and also had about ten percent of UN's forces in the Korean War beginning in 1950).? Given the extreme shortages of everything in the UK post-war, the chances were very high that unused steel stampings were resmelted.? I think John McC. can attest to the fact that the bodies of everything made at Coventry were made from virgin sheet metal and not made of leftover Doncaster floorboards.
   
 

 
 

 
 
Cheers.
 
 
 -- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....   
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From kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Mon Oct  7 20:29:28 2019
From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer)
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2019 19:29:28 -0700
Subject: [TR] new question re. panel spacing
In-Reply-To: <9884518.352591.1570491798959@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <mailman.10.1570471204.5536.triumphs@autox.team.net>
 <BYAPR07MB515792EB6D98CFB1232C849DBD9B0@BYAPR07MB5157.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
 <1342882361.5061610.1570478574973@mail.yahoo.com>
 <BYAPR07MB51575D149397A296A1AAAE6DBD9B0@BYAPR07MB5157.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
 <ea419359-35a1-1bea-b0c0-42261f28ab7e@dfn.com>
 <9884518.352591.1570491798959@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <013501d57d80$35e0aba0$a1a202e0$@net>

Perhaps the bonnet came from a different car? Is the valance have a raised portion where the hinge fastens? If so, the bonnet should also have a raised portion under the hinge. I think the embossed, if that?s the right term, came put about serial number 6000.  Just a thought.

 

Bob

 

From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TERRY SMITH
Sent: Monday, October 07, 2019 4:43 PM
To: Michael Porter; Gene M; Chad; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] new question re. panel spacing

 

So my TR3 has a hood  that lifts above the valence.  How does one drop it to be level with the valence?

 

terry smith

new hampshire

 

 

 

 

 

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From McGaheyRx at aol.com  Mon Oct  7 23:42:38 2019
From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (Jack McGahey)
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2019 00:42:38 -0500
Subject: [TR] Pain job for 1972 TR6
In-Reply-To: <A5DD67A9-F3FC-4EBA-985A-A26D5786234B@Ukpips.org.uk>
References: <mailman.10.1570471204.5536.triumphs@autox.team.net>
 <BYAPR07MB515792EB6D98CFB1232C849DBD9B0@BYAPR07MB5157.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
 <1342882361.5061610.1570478574973@mail.yahoo.com>
 <BYAPR07MB51575D149397A296A1AAAE6DBD9B0@BYAPR07MB5157.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
 <A5DD67A9-F3FC-4EBA-985A-A26D5786234B@Ukpips.org.uk>
Message-ID: <745C6CA7-0EEB-4B52-BBA9-B0E77087C19F@aol.com>

The paragraph about metal parts being dipped and hung to dry reminded me of this piece about the spaghetti harvest:
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&cd=2&ved=2ahUKEwjY_qXh94vlAhVQcq0KHZxOBQ0QwqsBMAF6BAgOEAg&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DMEqp0x6ajGE&usg=AOvVaw3RucjOP3X_FtlaVB_ZB4V3
Perhaps the WW2 vet who told the story had a similar sense of humor.

Sent from my iPad

> On Oct 7, 2019, at 4:47 PM, John Macartney <John.Macartney at ukpips.org.uk> wrote:
> 
> In the 23 odd years I?ve been on this list, I don?t think I?ve laughed so much at a ww2 veterans observation of manufacturing life in this country during the conflict. Get this. Manufacturing of anything to do with the prosecution of the war in the U.K. was strictly off limits to anyone not directly involved in it. As for farms being involved, all the farms were going flat out doing everything possible to feed the population. Hitlers U Boats nearly starved us out and farms had far more important things to do that paint hardware and let it dry. This poppycock is as way out of the window as myths I?ve seen in the past on this list that Triumphs were built using whatever happened to be available, or E type Jaguars were built in a factory with rusty metal walls as cladding and earth floors!!
> 
> Jonmac
> 
> Whenever I feel the need for exercise, experience has shown me it is better to lie down until the feeling goes away. WINSTON CHURCHILL
> 
>> On 7 Oct 2019, at 22:15, Gene M <mclans at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>> 
>> Chad,
>> 
>> Diameter of the bolt is the same on the entire shaft instead of tapered like a modern sheet metal screw, and threads were squared off and smooth instead of the angled with a machine bite like a sheet metal screw.  
>> 
>> I need to clean out my garage in the next year or two and I'll post a pic when I locate these bolts.  I never found a source for these, including The Roadster Factory or Moss Motors.  Only this WW II veteran identified it--didn't know where to get it or what it was called.  
>> 
>> Have you seen an original  TR6 body panel that had primer next to bare metal?  I don't know if it is true what the hardware store WW II employee told me about the Brits dipping every metal part in lacquer paint.  This vet told me during WW II they had these big vats in the barns in rural England and all the metal fabricated parts for everything were dipped and air dried to prevent rust.  These parts would hang there and be available for the war effort.  He figured maybe after WW II ended, these vats with the lacquer paint and the malleable metal parts that could be re-pressed into what my car was made from.  
>> 
>> All good since the result was the TR6.  
>> 
>> Gene M.
>> 70 TR6
>> Sacramento, CA
>> From: Chad <triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com>
>> Sent: Monday, October 7, 2019 1:02 PM
>> To: triumphs at autox.team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>; Gene M <mclans at sbcglobal.net>
>> Subject: Re: [TR] Pain job for 1972 TR6
>>  
>> I have never encountered what I would consider a "square" threaded bolt in almost 30 years of working on TR6's.  Maybe that is a descriptor I am unaware of.
>> 
>> Chad in Tulsa.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mcgaheyrx at aol.com
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From McGaheyRx at aol.com  Mon Oct  7 23:42:38 2019
From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (Jack McGahey)
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2019 00:42:38 -0500
Subject: [TR] Pain job for 1972 TR6
In-Reply-To: <A5DD67A9-F3FC-4EBA-985A-A26D5786234B@Ukpips.org.uk>
References: <mailman.10.1570471204.5536.triumphs@autox.team.net>
 <BYAPR07MB515792EB6D98CFB1232C849DBD9B0@BYAPR07MB5157.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
 <1342882361.5061610.1570478574973@mail.yahoo.com>
 <BYAPR07MB51575D149397A296A1AAAE6DBD9B0@BYAPR07MB5157.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
 <A5DD67A9-F3FC-4EBA-985A-A26D5786234B@Ukpips.org.uk>
Message-ID: <745C6CA7-0EEB-4B52-BBA9-B0E77087C19F@aol.com>

The paragraph about metal parts being dipped and hung to dry reminded me of this piece about the spaghetti harvest:
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&cd=2&ved=2ahUKEwjY_qXh94vlAhVQcq0KHZxOBQ0QwqsBMAF6BAgOEAg&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DMEqp0x6ajGE&usg=AOvVaw3RucjOP3X_FtlaVB_ZB4V3
Perhaps the WW2 vet who told the story had a similar sense of humor.

Sent from my iPad

> On Oct 7, 2019, at 4:47 PM, John Macartney <John.Macartney at ukpips.org.uk> wrote:
> 
> In the 23 odd years I?ve been on this list, I don?t think I?ve laughed so much at a ww2 veterans observation of manufacturing life in this country during the conflict. Get this. Manufacturing of anything to do with the prosecution of the war in the U.K. was strictly off limits to anyone not directly involved in it. As for farms being involved, all the farms were going flat out doing everything possible to feed the population. Hitlers U Boats nearly starved us out and farms had far more important things to do that paint hardware and let it dry. This poppycock is as way out of the window as myths I?ve seen in the past on this list that Triumphs were built using whatever happened to be available, or E type Jaguars were built in a factory with rusty metal walls as cladding and earth floors!!
> 
> Jonmac
> 
> Whenever I feel the need for exercise, experience has shown me it is better to lie down until the feeling goes away. WINSTON CHURCHILL
> 
>> On 7 Oct 2019, at 22:15, Gene M <mclans at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>> 
>> Chad,
>> 
>> Diameter of the bolt is the same on the entire shaft instead of tapered like a modern sheet metal screw, and threads were squared off and smooth instead of the angled with a machine bite like a sheet metal screw.  
>> 
>> I need to clean out my garage in the next year or two and I'll post a pic when I locate these bolts.  I never found a source for these, including The Roadster Factory or Moss Motors.  Only this WW II veteran identified it--didn't know where to get it or what it was called.  
>> 
>> Have you seen an original  TR6 body panel that had primer next to bare metal?  I don't know if it is true what the hardware store WW II employee told me about the Brits dipping every metal part in lacquer paint.  This vet told me during WW II they had these big vats in the barns in rural England and all the metal fabricated parts for everything were dipped and air dried to prevent rust.  These parts would hang there and be available for the war effort.  He figured maybe after WW II ended, these vats with the lacquer paint and the malleable metal parts that could be re-pressed into what my car was made from.  
>> 
>> All good since the result was the TR6.  
>> 
>> Gene M.
>> 70 TR6
>> Sacramento, CA
>> From: Chad <triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com>
>> Sent: Monday, October 7, 2019 1:02 PM
>> To: triumphs at autox.team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>; Gene M <mclans at sbcglobal.net>
>> Subject: Re: [TR] Pain job for 1972 TR6
>>  
>> I have never encountered what I would consider a "square" threaded bolt in almost 30 years of working on TR6's.  Maybe that is a descriptor I am unaware of.
>> 
>> Chad in Tulsa.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mcgaheyrx at aol.com
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From anncarletta at yahoo.com  Tue Oct  8 13:07:06 2019
From: anncarletta at yahoo.com (Ann Carletta)
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2019 19:07:06 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Looking for gas pedal for 1965 Daimler V8 2.5L
References: <214502188.3522832.1570561626065.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <214502188.3522832.1570561626065@mail.yahoo.com>

Hi to all.? Are there are recommendations on where to find a gas pedal for a 1965 Daimler V8?? I believe it would be the same as the Jag Mark II.? If I can't find one, any recommendations on what to use as a replacement?
Ann
1960 TR3A1965 Daimler V8 2.5L2012 Jaguar XF
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From forzion7 at gmail.com  Tue Oct  8 13:19:37 2019
From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2019 15:19:37 -0400
Subject: [TR] LED Dash lights
Message-ID: <CAJ1eQwgy_CDUwxw0R6n4tqHiH-J+GzGFThrPFRi3rq8H0JYRtw@mail.gmail.com>

Hey all;

I note the lights on my TR3 dash are pretty dim (no duh). Has
anyone used either the standard height or short LED's for your
dash lighting, as sold by Moss?  (BTW, yes, my car is negative ground).

https://mossmotors.com/led-dash-bulbs

Any feedback/insights/advice would be *much *appreciated...

Dave
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From mclans at sbcglobal.net  Tue Oct  8 13:35:33 2019
From: mclans at sbcglobal.net (Gene M)
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2019 19:35:33 +0000
Subject: [TR] Subject: Re:  Pain job for 1972 TR6
Message-ID: <BYAPR07MB5157BAC416D5B5E7C359F06CBD9A0@BYAPR07MB5157.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>

John,

I took a look this morning at my TR6 books.  Bentley repair manual does show a color code in the SN for white.  I was not able to get any information to match a factory white 40 years ago.  PPG looked through all of their books and the only formula they could find was the Jaguar white, which what I went with.

My Brooklands Book Gold Portfolio which is a compilation of magazine articles and advertisements had no paint information and I couldn't find any article that had information on colors or paint type.

I did not mean to imply that different color body panels were used by the factory and then repainted.  My point was that my car, and all other cars I pulled parts from over the years were pieced together from wrecks.  I was never able to locate a salvage yard in Sacramento, CA that had white TR6 body panels.  I also could never find an intact left rear tail light assembly with all lenses still good--until someone told me about TRF and Moss Motors in the 1980's.

Were the TR6 painted with lacquer, and did the paint shop spray the assembled cars before the engine was dropped in or were the panels already painted?  The sequence of articles in the Brooklands Book indicates there were probably manufacturing changes over the years since 1969.

I am attaching 2 pics of the "square threaded" bolts that attached my body panels.  Can anyone identify?  If helpful, I will take some measurements and thread count--not to find a replacement, but to answer an issue that I encountered over 40 years ago.

<edited original post>

In the ten years I worked at StandardTriumph in Coventry (1965-1975) I would comment as follows:

1. White was always available as an original colour on all models with tan, black or red trim.

3. If I?ve read the post correctly, it seems you feel body panels were a sort of pick and mix in any colour before final painting? No way! All bodies for all markets and all models came out of the body shop in white undercoat prior to going through the paint shop in colour batches, with cars in black being painted only on Friday afternoons. This was intentional as Black was not a popular colour and allowed the spray lines to be flushed through prior to paint shop cleaning over the weekend.


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From johnmidas10717 at yahoo.com  Tue Oct  8 13:43:14 2019
From: johnmidas10717 at yahoo.com (JOHN BARRON)
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2019 19:43:14 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] LED Dash lights
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwgy_CDUwxw0R6n4tqHiH-J+GzGFThrPFRi3rq8H0JYRtw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwgy_CDUwxw0R6n4tqHiH-J+GzGFThrPFRi3rq8H0JYRtw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1384836973.3535375.1570563794866@mail.yahoo.com>

I changed out mine but center panel the tall ones would not work. John
JB59TR3?

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Tue, Oct 8, 2019 at 2:21 PM, David Friedlander<forzion7 at gmail.com> wrote:   Hey all;
I note the lights on my TR3 dash are pretty dim (no duh). Has?anyone used either the standard height or short LED's for your?dash lighting, as sold by Moss??(BTW, yes, my car is negative ground).
https://mossmotors.com/led-dash-bulbs?
Any feedback/insights/advice would be much appreciated...
Dave?
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/johnmidas10717 at yahoo.com
  
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From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Oct  8 13:58:06 2019
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2019 12:58:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] LED Dash lights
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwgy_CDUwxw0R6n4tqHiH-J+GzGFThrPFRi3rq8H0JYRtw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwgy_CDUwxw0R6n4tqHiH-J+GzGFThrPFRi3rq8H0JYRtw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2C3983705A8A4E15BA90B2FFF58265B8@RYPC>

My experience has been that cleaning everything, painting the inside of the
gauge housings and replacing the side windows in the small gauges; plus new
original type bulbs made a huge difference.  Plenty bright enough for me
(and I don't particularly like looking at LEDs).  

Bulb output always goes down with time (even with LEDs), but modern bulbs
usually burn out before they get too dim.  Not so the old Lucas bulbs, I've
seen them still "work" when they were almost too dim to see!  Sometimes the
glass is shiny black from all the metal evaporated from the filament and
deposited on the inside of the glass.

But if you want to go the LED route, there is some good information here:
https://www.triumphexp.com/forum/tr2-and-tr3-forum.6/changeover-to-led-light
s.1649452.1653188/#msg-1653188

-- Randall 
56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild
71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild 

> I note the lights on my TR3 dash are pretty dim (no duh). Has 
> anyone used either the standard height or short LED's for 
> your dash lighting, as sold by Moss?  (BTW, yes, my car is 
> negative ground). 
> 
> https://mossmotors.com/led-dash-bulbs 
> 
> Any feedback/insights/advice would be much appreciated...
> 
> Dave 
> 
> 


From cliff_hansen at outlook.com  Tue Oct  8 14:14:55 2019
From: cliff_hansen at outlook.com (Cliff Hansen)
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2019 20:14:55 +0000
Subject: [TR] Subject: Re:  Pain job for 1972 TR6
In-Reply-To: <BYAPR07MB5157BAC416D5B5E7C359F06CBD9A0@BYAPR07MB5157.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
References: <BYAPR07MB5157BAC416D5B5E7C359F06CBD9A0@BYAPR07MB5157.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CY4PR22MB044064B6643F03F8AA90169DFA9A0@CY4PR22MB0440.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>

Gene

Those are Acme thread bolts, available from the usual suppliers, who also offer hardware kits for mounting fenders (wings).

https://www.bresco.com/acatalog/Screws-_ACME_Treaded.html

Best,

Cliff

Get Outlook for iOS<https://aka.ms/o0ukef>
________________________________
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Gene M <mclans at sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 8, 2019 3:35:33 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>; John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk <John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk>
Subject: [TR] Subject: Re: Pain job for 1972 TR6

John,

I took a look this morning at my TR6 books.  Bentley repair manual does show a color code in the SN for white.  I was not able to get any information to match a factory white 40 years ago.  PPG looked through all of their books and the only formula they could find was the Jaguar white, which what I went with.

My Brooklands Book Gold Portfolio which is a compilation of magazine articles and advertisements had no paint information and I couldn't find any article that had information on colors or paint type.

I did not mean to imply that different color body panels were used by the factory and then repainted.  My point was that my car, and all other cars I pulled parts from over the years were pieced together from wrecks.  I was never able to locate a salvage yard in Sacramento, CA that had white TR6 body panels.  I also could never find an intact left rear tail light assembly with all lenses still good--until someone told me about TRF and Moss Motors in the 1980's.

Were the TR6 painted with lacquer, and did the paint shop spray the assembled cars before the engine was dropped in or were the panels already painted?  The sequence of articles in the Brooklands Book indicates there were probably manufacturing changes over the years since 1969.

I am attaching 2 pics of the "square threaded" bolts that attached my body panels.  Can anyone identify?  If helpful, I will take some measurements and thread count--not to find a replacement, but to answer an issue that I encountered over 40 years ago.

<edited original post>

In the ten years I worked at StandardTriumph in Coventry (1965-1975) I would comment as follows:

1. White was always available as an original colour on all models with tan, black or red trim.

3. If I?ve read the post correctly, it seems you feel body panels were a sort of pick and mix in any colour before final painting? No way! All bodies for all markets and all models came out of the body shop in white undercoat prior to going through the paint shop in colour batches, with cars in black being painted only on Friday afternoons. This was intentional as Black was not a popular colour and allowed the spray lines to be flushed through prior to paint shop cleaning over the weekend.


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From mclans at sbcglobal.net  Tue Oct  8 14:22:45 2019
From: mclans at sbcglobal.net (Gene M)
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2019 20:22:45 +0000
Subject: [TR] Paint dipping
In-Reply-To: <mailman.10.1570557605.20758.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.10.1570557605.20758.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <BYAPR07MB5157B8F2A6F7E9350DCF1F75BD9A0@BYAPR07MB5157.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>

40 years ago those hardware store employees were probably laughing just as hard at me when I, in my mid 20's, left the store.

But, the  WWII veteran was not implying that the farmers were part of the manufacturing process.  His point was everything in the war manufacturing process needed to be spread out so that Hitler's bombing could not stop production.  He said the processes that required solvents needed to be decentralized to minimize secondary fires and the empty barns in the rural areas were how they did this.  He said the metal parts were dipped in the paint so that they would be protected and ready to be placed on as a repair panel on military vehicles.

Sounded reasonable to me back then, and not unreasonable when I think about it now.  Hitler wasn't able to see the massive troop and equipment build up for D-day.  Maybe some troops were staged to protect these rural sites?

Didn't TRF find original parts and the equipment to reproduce parts in some unlikely places?  Now I need to find my old catalogs.

Hey, I'm in my late 60's so fact and fiction can get blurred a bit, but at least I was able to find those old fasteners.

Gene M.
70 TR6
Sacramento, CA

<>original post>

In the 23 odd years I?ve been on this list, I don?t think I?ve laughed so much at a ww2 veterans observation of manufacturing life in this country during the conflict. Get this. Manufacturing of anything to do with the prosecution of the war in the U.K. was strictly off limits to anyone not directly involved in it. As for farms being involved, all the farms were going flat out doing everything possible to feed the population. Hitlers U Boats nearly starved us out and farms had far more important things to do that paint hardware and let it dry. This poppycock is as way out of the window as myths I?ve seen in the past on this list that Triumphs were built using whatever happened to be available, or E type Jaguars were built in a factory with rusty metal walls as cladding and earth floors!!

Jonmac







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From ptegler at verizon.net  Tue Oct  8 14:29:59 2019
From: ptegler at verizon.net (Paul Tegler)
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2019 16:29:59 -0400
Subject: [TR] LED Dash lights
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwgy_CDUwxw0R6n4tqHiH-J+GzGFThrPFRi3rq8H0JYRtw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwgy_CDUwxw0R6n4tqHiH-J+GzGFThrPFRi3rq8H0JYRtw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <e0356569-455b-c867-cd41-7a4f3763405f@verizon.net>

that price is nuts!!???? buy directly from sencart.com?????? Look for Lionel 
E10 bulbs???? (screw base)?? dig around for bayonet bases

the last time I bought bulbs, it was something like $2.69 for two 
bulbs!???? just checked...price is up to a whopping?? $2.99 for two bulbs

Even big honking 30 '5050' style led 1157 assy's are only <$6.50?? I've 
had mine in all my LBCs for nearly?? 10 years now without one ever dieing

I bought red, green, blue and white, all at once.?? green in my Spit 
gauges, white under the dash (foot well, boot etc) red im my MGB (sorry) 
 ?? the rest just to play with

hopefully this pic comes through.... all colors lit up compared to a 
stock bulb

led light comparison

nfi...just a happy customer that I stumbled on this source for LED bulbs 
of all types.


ptegler



On 10/8/2019 3:19 PM, David Friedlander wrote:
> Hey all;
>
> I note the lights on my TR3 dash are pretty dim (no duh). Has
> anyone used either the standard height or short LED's for your
> dash lighting, as sold by Moss? (BTW, yes, my car is negative ground).
>
> https://mossmotors.com/led-dash-bulbs
>
> Any feedback/insights/advice would be *much *appreciated...
>
> Dave
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net

-- 
Paul Tegler
ptegler at verizon.net  www.teglerizer.com

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From forzion7 at gmail.com  Tue Oct  8 14:37:44 2019
From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2019 16:37:44 -0400
Subject: [TR] LED Dash lights
In-Reply-To: <e0356569-455b-c867-cd41-7a4f3763405f@verizon.net>
References: <CAJ1eQwgy_CDUwxw0R6n4tqHiH-J+GzGFThrPFRi3rq8H0JYRtw@mail.gmail.com>
 <e0356569-455b-c867-cd41-7a4f3763405f@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <CAJ1eQwj8XGRjWQtXT=bXgqUMhPUb71Pt90VoYsqMVtZKV-ovRA@mail.gmail.com>

That's great, Paul, thanks!! I'll check it out. Any bulb height issues?

I'll bet you have a good time lighting your Christmas tree!!!  :- )

Dave

On Tue, Oct 8, 2019 at 4:32 PM Paul Tegler <ptegler at verizon.net> wrote:

> that price is nuts!!???? buy directly from sencart.com?????? Look for
> Lionel E10 bulbs???? (screw base)?? dig around for bayonet bases
>
> the last time I bought bulbs, it was something like $2.69 for two
> bulbs!???? just checked...price is up to a whopping?? $2.99 for two bulbs
>
> Even big honking 30 '5050' style led 1157 assy's are only <$6.50?? I've
> had mine in all my LBCs for nearly?? 10 years now without one ever dieing
>
> I bought red, green, blue and white, all at once.?? green in my Spit
> gauges, white under the dash (foot well, boot etc) red im my MGB (sorry) ??
> the rest just to play with
>
> hopefully this pic comes through.... all colors lit up compared to a stock
> bulb
>
> [image: led light comparison]
>
> nfi...just a happy customer that I stumbled on this source for LED bulbs
> of all types.
>
>
> ptegler
>
>
> On 10/8/2019 3:19 PM, David Friedlander wrote:
>
> Hey all;
>
> I note the lights on my TR3 dash are pretty dim (no duh). Has??
> anyone used either the standard height or short LED's for your??
> dash lighting, as sold by Moss??? (BTW, yes, my car is negative ground).
>
> https://mossmotors.com/led-dash-bulbs??
>
> Any feedback/insights/advice would be *much *appreciated...
>
> Dave??
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net
>
> --
> Paul Teglerptegler at verizon.net  www.teglerizer.com
>
>
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From ptegler at verizon.net  Tue Oct  8 14:46:36 2019
From: ptegler at verizon.net (Paul Tegler)
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2019 16:46:36 -0400
Subject: [TR] LED Dash lights
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwj8XGRjWQtXT=bXgqUMhPUb71Pt90VoYsqMVtZKV-ovRA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwgy_CDUwxw0R6n4tqHiH-J+GzGFThrPFRi3rq8H0JYRtw@mail.gmail.com>
 <e0356569-455b-c867-cd41-7a4f3763405f@verizon.net>
 <CAJ1eQwj8XGRjWQtXT=bXgqUMhPUb71Pt90VoYsqMVtZKV-ovRA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6b541cdc-469b-f983-c82b-10fbe7dcf679@verizon.net>

The Spit gauge (speedo) has a little green plastic dome just inside the 
gauge at the base of where the split collar holde the bulb socket

I might not jam them in quite as far as the incandescent but never an 
issue (so far)?? the leds are the same size as the moss units linked.

only the link I sent uses the brighter single 5050 size leds

ptegler


On 10/8/2019 4:37 PM, David Friedlander wrote:
> That's great, Paul, thanks!! I'll check it out. Any bulb height issues?
>
> I'll bet you have a good time lighting your Christmas tree!!!?? :- )
>
> Dave
>
> On Tue, Oct 8, 2019 at 4:32 PM Paul Tegler <ptegler at verizon.net 
> <mailto:ptegler at verizon.net>> wrote:
>
>     that price is nuts!!???? buy directly from sencart.com????
>     <http://sencart.com????>?? Look for Lionel E10 bulbs???? (screw
>     base)?? dig around for bayonet bases
>
>     the last time I bought bulbs, it was something like $2.69 for two
>     bulbs!???? just checked...price is up to a whopping?? $2.99 for
>     two bulbs
>
>     Even big honking 30 '5050' style led 1157 assy's are only <$6.50??
>     I've had mine in all my LBCs for nearly?? 10 years now without one
>     ever dieing
>
>     I bought red, green, blue and white, all at once.?? green in my
>     Spit gauges, white under the dash (foot well, boot etc) red im my
>     MGB (sorry) ?? the rest just to play with
>
>     hopefully this pic comes through.... all colors lit up compared to
>     a stock bulb
>
>     led light comparison
>
>     nfi...just a happy customer that I stumbled on this source for LED
>     bulbs of all types.
>
>
>     ptegler
>
>
>
>     On 10/8/2019 3:19 PM, David Friedlander wrote:
>>     Hey all;
>>
>>     I note the lights on my TR3 dash are pretty dim (no duh). Has??
>>     anyone used either the standard height or short LED's for your??
>>     dash lighting, as sold by Moss??? (BTW, yes, my car is negative
>>     ground).
>>
>>     https://mossmotors.com/led-dash-bulbs??
>>
>>     Any feedback/insights/advice would be *much *appreciated...
>>
>>     Dave??
>>
>>     **triumphs at autox.team.net  <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>  **
>>
>>     Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>     Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs   http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>>     Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net
>
>     -- 
>     Paul Tegler
>     ptegler at verizon.net  <mailto:ptegler at verizon.net>   www.teglerizer.com  <http://www.teglerizer.com>
>
-- 
Paul Tegler
ptegler at verizon.net  www.teglerizer.com

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From grglmn at gmail.com  Tue Oct  8 16:43:39 2019
From: grglmn at gmail.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2019 17:43:39 -0500
Subject: [TR] LED Dash lights
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwj8XGRjWQtXT=bXgqUMhPUb71Pt90VoYsqMVtZKV-ovRA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwgy_CDUwxw0R6n4tqHiH-J+GzGFThrPFRi3rq8H0JYRtw@mail.gmail.com>
 <e0356569-455b-c867-cd41-7a4f3763405f@verizon.net>
 <CAJ1eQwj8XGRjWQtXT=bXgqUMhPUb71Pt90VoYsqMVtZKV-ovRA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFtw3aY8=q07J5ThnKAQJrHiyoff0p9x9CihoQP00LvrDFvxhA@mail.gmail.com>

Agree with Dave, if you Google E10 screw base led you will get all kinds of
options.  I used a different company, make sure you get one with a smaller
head or bulb part that is omnidirectional to spread the light like a
regular incandescent does.

I don't drive my TR at night that much, but when I do I really like the
extra light on the instruments, bright light instead of the warm glow of
Lucas lamps though.

Greg Lemon
TR250

On Tue, Oct 8, 2019, 3:49 PM David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com> wrote:

> That's great, Paul, thanks!! I'll check it out. Any bulb height issues?
>
> I'll bet you have a good time lighting your Christmas tree!!!  :- )
>
> Dave
>
> On Tue, Oct 8, 2019 at 4:32 PM Paul Tegler <ptegler at verizon.net> wrote:
>
>> that price is nuts!!???? buy directly from sencart.com?????? Look for
>> Lionel E10 bulbs???? (screw base)?? dig around for bayonet bases
>>
>> the last time I bought bulbs, it was something like $2.69 for two
>> bulbs!???? just checked...price is up to a whopping?? $2.99 for two bulbs
>>
>> Even big honking 30 '5050' style led 1157 assy's are only <$6.50?? I've
>> had mine in all my LBCs for nearly?? 10 years now without one ever dieing
>>
>> I bought red, green, blue and white, all at once.?? green in my Spit
>> gauges, white under the dash (foot well, boot etc) red im my MGB (sorry) ??
>> the rest just to play with
>>
>> hopefully this pic comes through.... all colors lit up compared to a
>> stock bulb
>>
>> [image: led light comparison]
>>
>> nfi...just a happy customer that I stumbled on this source for LED bulbs
>> of all types.
>>
>>
>> ptegler
>>
>>
>> On 10/8/2019 3:19 PM, David Friedlander wrote:
>>
>> Hey all;
>>
>> I note the lights on my TR3 dash are pretty dim (no duh). Has??
>> anyone used either the standard height or short LED's for your??
>> dash lighting, as sold by Moss??? (BTW, yes, my car is negative ground).
>>
>> https://mossmotors.com/led-dash-bulbs??
>>
>> Any feedback/insights/advice would be *much *appreciated...
>>
>> Dave??
>>
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net
>>
>> --
>> Paul Teglerptegler at verizon.net  www.teglerizer.com
>>
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/grglmn at gmail.com
>
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From ptegler at verizon.net  Tue Oct  8 17:00:42 2019
From: ptegler at verizon.net (Paul Tegler)
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2019 19:00:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] Subject: Re: Pain job for 1972 TR6
In-Reply-To: <BYAPR07MB5157BAC416D5B5E7C359F06CBD9A0@BYAPR07MB5157.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
References: <BYAPR07MB5157BAC416D5B5E7C359F06CBD9A0@BYAPR07MB5157.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <2b6811d5-18b7-34a4-e0f6-df50d092d86b@verizon.net>

Paint has been covered so many time on the lists over the years...I'm 
surprised more haven't already chimed in.

I confident there are arguments about which color was avail on what 
years... and even my own data is/may be in question in some situations.

My own color pages were designed to show the DIFFERENCE in the named 
colors. (not be absolute representations via the photos)

Regardless....?? white, Sebring, Leyland, Spa and Pearl white all have 
PPG codes on the page.? Right or wrong.... these are what have been 
identified over the years.

Whether they were used on earlier cars or not I have no clue as I was 
working Spits/GT6 eras.

http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphcolors/#White%20color


Of course, any color mixed today is NOT going to be a match on your 
car.? Chemical differences (then? and now) in paints, sun fade, weather 
effects etc have all changed these 40+ year old colors.


ptegler



On 10/8/2019 3:35 PM, Gene M wrote:
> John,
>
> I took a look this morning at my TR6 books.? Bentley repair manual 
> does show a color code in the SN for white.? I was not able to get any 
> information to match a factory white 40 years ago.? PPG looked through 
> all of their books and the only formula they could find was the Jaguar 
> white, which what I went with.
>
> My Brooklands Book Gold Portfolio which is a compilation of magazine 
> articles and advertisements had no paint information and I couldn't 
> find any article that had information on colors or paint type.
>
> I did not mean to imply that different color body panels were used by 
> the factory and then repainted.? My point was that my car, and all 
> other cars I pulled parts from over the years were pieced together 
> from wrecks.? I was never able to locate a salvage yard in Sacramento, 
> CA that had white TR6 body panels.? I also could never find an intact 
> left rear tail light assembly with all lenses still good--until 
> someone told me about TRF and Moss Motors in the 1980's.
>
> Were the TR6 painted with lacquer, and did the paint shop spray the 
> assembled cars before the engine was dropped in or were the panels 
> already painted?? The sequence of articles in the Brooklands Book 
> indicates there were probably manufacturing changes over the years 
> since 1969.
>
> I am attaching 2 pics of the "square threaded" bolts that attached my 
> body panels.? Can anyone identify?? If helpful, I will take some 
> measurements and thread count--not to find a replacement, but to 
> answer an issue that I encountered over 40 years ago.
>
> <edited original post>
>
> In the ten years I worked at StandardTriumph in Coventry (1965-1975) I 
> would comment as follows:
>
> 1. White was always available as an original colour on all models with 
> tan, black or red trim.
>
> 3. If I?ve read the post correctly, it seems you feel body panels were 
> a sort of pick and mix in any colour before final painting? No way! 
> All bodies for all markets and all models came out of the body shop in 
> white undercoat prior to going through the paint shop in colour 
> batches, with cars in black being painted only on Friday afternoons. 
> This was intentional as Black was not a popular colour and allowed the 
> spray lines to be flushed through prior to paint shop cleaning over 
> the weekend.
>
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net

-- 
Paul Tegler
ptegler at verizon.net  www.teglerizer.com

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From rrochlin at comcast.net  Tue Oct  8 17:14:18 2019
From: rrochlin at comcast.net (Rochlin Robert)
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2019 19:14:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] LED Dash lights
In-Reply-To: <2C3983705A8A4E15BA90B2FFF58265B8@RYPC>
References: <CAJ1eQwgy_CDUwxw0R6n4tqHiH-J+GzGFThrPFRi3rq8H0JYRtw@mail.gmail.com>
 <2C3983705A8A4E15BA90B2FFF58265B8@RYPC>
Message-ID: <77F9D167-BC31-4DCA-8809-86FDFE1BC28D@comcast.net>

I?ve got a set of green tinted LED E10 bulbs that I had in my TR6.  The only place they Won?t work well is in the Speedo/tach where you need to cut out the plastic domes inside the light inserts to get them to seat fully. I?d be willing to let them go for the price of postage.
	Best,
	Bob

> On Oct 8, 2019, at 3:58 PM, Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
> 
> My experience has been that cleaning everything, painting the inside of the
> gauge housings and replacing the side windows in the small gauges; plus new
> original type bulbs made a huge difference.  Plenty bright enough for me
> (and I don't particularly like looking at LEDs).  
> 
> Bulb output always goes down with time (even with LEDs), but modern bulbs
> usually burn out before they get too dim.  Not so the old Lucas bulbs, I've
> seen them still "work" when they were almost too dim to see!  Sometimes the
> glass is shiny black from all the metal evaporated from the filament and
> deposited on the inside of the glass.
> 
> But if you want to go the LED route, there is some good information here:
> https://www.triumphexp.com/forum/tr2-and-tr3-forum.6/changeover-to-led-light
> s.1649452.1653188/#msg-1653188
> 
> -- Randall 
> 56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
> 71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild
> 71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild 
> 
>> I note the lights on my TR3 dash are pretty dim (no duh). Has 
>> anyone used either the standard height or short LED's for 
>> your dash lighting, as sold by Moss?  (BTW, yes, my car is 
>> negative ground). 
>> 
>> https://mossmotors.com/led-dash-bulbs 
>> 
>> Any feedback/insights/advice would be much appreciated...
>> 
>> Dave 
>> 
>> 
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rrochlin at comcast.net


From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Tue Oct  8 14:44:38 2019
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2019 20:44:38 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] new question re. panel spacing
In-Reply-To: <2116916247.352677.1570492145411@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <mailman.10.1570471204.5536.triumphs@autox.team.net>
 <BYAPR07MB515792EB6D98CFB1232C849DBD9B0@BYAPR07MB5157.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
 <1342882361.5061610.1570478574973@mail.yahoo.com>
 <BYAPR07MB51575D149397A296A1AAAE6DBD9B0@BYAPR07MB5157.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
 <ea419359-35a1-1bea-b0c0-42261f28ab7e@dfn.com>
 <9884518.352591.1570491798959@connect.xfinity.com>
 <2116916247.352677.1570492145411@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <698840708.3561184.1570567478983@mail.yahoo.com>

 the correct word of course is "bonnet".
frank
    On Monday, October 7, 2019, 04:49:25 PM PDT, TERRY SMITH <terryrs at comcast.net> wrote:  
 
 
Oh.? And what again is the british word for "hood"?

On October 7, 2019 at 7:43 PM TERRY SMITH <terryrs at comcast.net> wrote: 
 

So my TR3 has a hood? that lifts above the valence.? How does one drop it to be level with the valence?




terry smith

new hampshire







?













?

** triumphs at autox.team.net ** 
 
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive 
 
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at comcast.net 



?
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From PeterAra at msn.com  Sat Oct 12 12:57:36 2019
From: PeterAra at msn.com (Peter Arakelian)
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2019 18:57:36 +0000
Subject: [TR] battery, alternator, or gremlin?
Message-ID: <DM5PR06MB3564EF3562AEFA69BC8BA6AAC1960@DM5PR06MB3564.namprd06.prod.outlook.com>

1971 TR6.  Driving home last night I noticed my ammeter was at the + sign, half-way between neutral and full.  It is a 40 mile drive, stayed there the entire way.  I stopped to pick up a pizza.  the car cranked and started as usual after a 20 min stop.  Ammeter was now halfway between the neutral position and the + sign.  today I checked volage of battery from pole to pole: 12.60 volts.  Start the car today, cranked and started as usual, ammeter shows normal - slight charge at first then to neutral position.
Battery, alternator, or Gremlin?

Peter Arakelian
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From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Oct 12 13:12:14 2019
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2019 12:12:14 -0700
Subject: [TR] battery, alternator, or gremlin?
In-Reply-To: <DM5PR06MB3564EF3562AEFA69BC8BA6AAC1960@DM5PR06MB3564.namprd06.prod.outlook.com>
References: <DM5PR06MB3564EF3562AEFA69BC8BA6AAC1960@DM5PR06MB3564.namprd06.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <1CF4601CBCCB4C31A01E23EB63D5AADA@RYPC>

Most likely a gremlin in the alternator, IMO.

Kind of dangerous, running around with the alternator stuck on "full on".
The electrolyte in the battery "boils", which isn't water changing to steam
but instead water being separated into oxygen and hydrogen.  Normally, the
explosive gas mixture escapes out the vents and dissipates with no harm done
(until the battery runs low on electrolyte).  But any kind of spark nearby
can set it off, resulting in a battery explosion.

I suggest carrying a voltmeter/DMM in the car.  Next time it happens (if
there is a next time), pull over and check battery voltage with engine at a
fast idle.  If you see more than about 14.4 volts, shut the engine off and
disconnect the alternator for the drive home.  Should be no problem driving
for 4 or 5 hours without the alternator and no headlights, 2 or 3 hours with
headlights.

You'll also know for sure that it's the alternator gone wonky, and not a
shorted cell in the battery.  I suppose it's possible for a shorted cell to
un-short; but I've never seen it happen.

-- Randall 
56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild
71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On 
> Behalf Of Peter Arakelian
> Sent: Saturday, October 12, 2019 11:58 AM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] battery, alternator, or gremlin?
> 
> 1971 TR6.  Driving home last night I noticed my ammeter was 
> at the + sign, half-way between neutral and full.  It is a 40 
> mile drive, stayed there the entire way.  I stopped to pick 
> up a pizza.  the car cranked and started as usual after a 20 
> min stop.  Ammeter was now halfway between the neutral 
> position and the + sign.  today I checked volage of battery 
> from pole to pole: 12.60 volts.  Start the car today, cranked 
> and started as usual, ammeter shows normal - slight charge at 
> first then to neutral position.
> Battery, alternator, or Gremlin?
>  
> Peter Arakelian
> 


From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Sat Oct 12 13:21:54 2019
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2019 12:21:54 -0700
Subject: [TR] battery, alternator, or gremlin?
In-Reply-To: <DM5PR06MB3564EF3562AEFA69BC8BA6AAC1960@DM5PR06MB3564.namprd06.prod.outlook.com>
References: <DM5PR06MB3564EF3562AEFA69BC8BA6AAC1960@DM5PR06MB3564.namprd06.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <c9373c63-182c-262b-5c4c-984106d34567@gmail.com>

On 10/12/19 11:57 AM, Peter Arakelian wrote:
> 1971 TR6.? Driving home last night I noticed my ammeter was at the + 
> sign, half-way between neutral and full.? It is a 40 mile drive, 
> stayed there the entire way.? I stopped to pick up a pizza.? the car 
> cranked and started as usual after a 20 min stop.? Ammeter was now 
> halfway between the neutral position and the + sign.? today I checked 
> volage of battery from pole to pole: 12.60 volts.? Start the car 
> today, cranked and started as usual, ammeter shows normal - slight 
> charge at first then to neutral position.
> Battery, alternator, or Gremlin?
> Peter Arakelian

1. Throw away you ammeter or ebay it) and replace it with a volt meter 
so you can see what is really going on.

2. Take your car to most any auto parts store. They can test the 
condition of your battery and your alternator for FREE.

TeriAnn

With a Smiths volt meter in my TR3.

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From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Oct 12 14:00:28 2019
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2019 13:00:28 -0700
Subject: [TR] battery, alternator, or gremlin?
In-Reply-To: <c9373c63-182c-262b-5c4c-984106d34567@gmail.com>
References: <DM5PR06MB3564EF3562AEFA69BC8BA6AAC1960@DM5PR06MB3564.namprd06.prod.outlook.com>
 <c9373c63-182c-262b-5c4c-984106d34567@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6EE4BAA114BE4B7C831331307EF2225F@RYPC>


> 1. Throw away you ammeter or ebay it) and replace it with a 
> volt meter so you can see what is really going on.

I'd just like to point out that, if the problem had been a shorted battery
cell, a voltmeter would likely not have shown anything out of the ordinary.
The alternator would have charged 5 cells to the region of 13 or 14 volts;
which is a drastic overcharge but the voltage is still fine.  To really get
a complete picture, you need both.

But temporarily checking with a voltmeter is a lot easier than temporarily
checking with an ammeter.  If you want, you can even get a voltmeter that
plugs into a cigarette lighter socket.

-- Randall


From PeterAra at msn.com  Sat Oct 12 17:15:27 2019
From: PeterAra at msn.com (Peter Arakelian)
Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2019 23:15:27 +0000
Subject: [TR] battery, alternator, or gremlin?
In-Reply-To: <1CF4601CBCCB4C31A01E23EB63D5AADA@RYPC>
References: <DM5PR06MB3564EF3562AEFA69BC8BA6AAC1960@DM5PR06MB3564.namprd06.prod.outlook.com>,
 <1CF4601CBCCB4C31A01E23EB63D5AADA@RYPC>
Message-ID: <DM5PR06MB35645990C32F878F974EE457C1960@DM5PR06MB3564.namprd06.prod.outlook.com>

Thanx, just the advice I needed to diagnose



Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10



________________________________
From: Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 12, 2019 12:12:14 PM
To: 'Peter Arakelian' <PeterAra at msn.com>; triumphs at autox.team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: [TR] battery, alternator, or gremlin?

Most likely a gremlin in the alternator, IMO.

Kind of dangerous, running around with the alternator stuck on "full on".
The electrolyte in the battery "boils", which isn't water changing to steam
but instead water being separated into oxygen and hydrogen.  Normally, the
explosive gas mixture escapes out the vents and dissipates with no harm done
(until the battery runs low on electrolyte).  But any kind of spark nearby
can set it off, resulting in a battery explosion.

I suggest carrying a voltmeter/DMM in the car.  Next time it happens (if
there is a next time), pull over and check battery voltage with engine at a
fast idle.  If you see more than about 14.4 volts, shut the engine off and
disconnect the alternator for the drive home.  Should be no problem driving
for 4 or 5 hours without the alternator and no headlights, 2 or 3 hours with
headlights.

You'll also know for sure that it's the alternator gone wonky, and not a
shorted cell in the battery.  I suppose it's possible for a shorted cell to
un-short; but I've never seen it happen.

-- Randall
56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild
71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Peter Arakelian
> Sent: Saturday, October 12, 2019 11:58 AM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] battery, alternator, or gremlin?
>
> 1971 TR6.  Driving home last night I noticed my ammeter was
> at the + sign, half-way between neutral and full.  It is a 40
> mile drive, stayed there the entire way.  I stopped to pick
> up a pizza.  the car cranked and started as usual after a 20
> min stop.  Ammeter was now halfway between the neutral
> position and the + sign.  today I checked volage of battery
> from pole to pole: 12.60 volts.  Start the car today, cranked
> and started as usual, ammeter shows normal - slight charge at
> first then to neutral position.
> Battery, alternator, or Gremlin?
>
> Peter Arakelian
>

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From dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Oct 13 08:21:54 2019
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2019 14:21:54 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] battery, alternator, or gremlin?
References: <46817477.576872.1570976514323.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <46817477.576872.1570976514323@mail.yahoo.com>

 Hello, Peter.? I had a similar experience.? My ammeter suddenly started something similar in the middle of a drive so when I got home I checked battery voltage both engine-off and engine-running and voltages were normal.? So I concluded the battery was starting to fail.? The battery shop checked it with their big, heavy, fancy tester and pronounced it good but I was not comfortable with that diagnosis so I bought a new one anyway.? It was a seven year old battery and I had a gift card so what the heck.? I installed the battery and all was back to normal.
I probably could have run that battery for a few more months before it failed altogether but that could have been on the middle of my trip to Dripping Springs.? ON a Sunday.? On I-35 in Dallas.

As Randall said, you need both a volt meter and an ammeter to diagnose a problem.? Basically, the voltmeter will indicate the health of the charging system and the ammeter will indicate the health of the battery - but only if the charging system is working properly.? A charging system malfunction can give you the same ammeter reading as a failing battery so the ammeter along is not enough.? And a pending battery failure will not necessarily show on the load tester.
Good luck.
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Arakelian <PeterAra at msn.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, Oct 12, 2019 1:57 pm
Subject: [TR] battery, alternator, or gremlin?

 1971 TR6.? Driving home last night I noticed my ammeter was at the + sign, half-way between neutral and full.? It is a 40 mile drive, stayed there the entire way.? I stopped to pick up a pizza.? the car cranked and started as usual after a 20 min stop.? Ammeter was now halfway between the neutral position and the + sign.? today I checked volage of battery from pole to pole: 12.60 volts.? Start the car today, cranked and started as usual, ammeter shows normal - slight charge at first then to neutral position.Battery, alternator, or Gremlin??Peter Arakelian** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com
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From allen.k.hess at gmail.com  Sun Oct 13 13:25:22 2019
From: allen.k.hess at gmail.com (Allen Hess)
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2019 15:25:22 -0400
Subject: [TR] battery, alternator, or gremlin?
Message-ID: <2488B825-8889-4BCC-9EB0-DEC775DF46A7@gmail.com>

you can get an inexpensive volt meter that plugs into the cigarette lighter. 

From pdqtr6 at comcast.net  Sun Oct 13 16:10:35 2019
From: pdqtr6 at comcast.net (Tom Walling)
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2019 18:10:35 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] battery, alternator, or gremlin?
In-Reply-To: <2488B825-8889-4BCC-9EB0-DEC775DF46A7@gmail.com>
References: <2488B825-8889-4BCC-9EB0-DEC775DF46A7@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <763411509.44025.1571004636020@connect.xfinity.com>

The plug-in volt meter / device charger is available from the LBCar Company ( https://www.lbcarco.com/ ) for a measly $11.00. A lot less than a new alternator!


> On October 13, 2019 at 3:25 PM Allen Hess <allen.k.hess at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> you can get an inexpensive volt meter that plugs into the cigarette lighter. 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pdqtr6 at comcast.net

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Sun Oct 13 16:15:23 2019
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2019 15:15:23 -0700
Subject: [TR] battery, alternator, or gremlin?
In-Reply-To: <763411509.44025.1571004636020@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <2488B825-8889-4BCC-9EB0-DEC775DF46A7@gmail.com>
 <763411509.44025.1571004636020@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <94cabebb-c615-eea9-70d3-c6184bf1dd8f@gmail.com>

On 10/13/19 3:10 PM, Tom Walling wrote:
> The plug-in volt meter / device charger is available from the LBCar Company ( https://www.lbcarco.com/ ) for a measly $11.00. A lot less than a new alternator!
Going to an auto parts store for a FREE battery and alternator checkup 
is cheaper yet.

From dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Oct 13 16:33:20 2019
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2019 22:33:20 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] battery, alternator, or gremlin?
In-Reply-To: <2488B825-8889-4BCC-9EB0-DEC775DF46A7@gmail.com>
References: <2488B825-8889-4BCC-9EB0-DEC775DF46A7@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1324097192.658484.1571006000653@mail.yahoo.com>

 If only our cars had cigarette lighters.? ;-)
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Allen Hess <allen.k.hess at gmail.com>
To: triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Oct 13, 2019 2:25 pm
Subject: [TR] battery, alternator, or gremlin?

you can get an inexpensive volt meter that plugs into the cigarette lighter. 
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com
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From john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk  Mon Oct 14 06:04:03 2019
From: john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2019 13:04:03 +0100
Subject: [TR] Subject: Re:  Pain job for 1972 TR6
In-Reply-To: <BYAPR07MB5157BAC416D5B5E7C359F06CBD9A0@BYAPR07MB5157.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
References: <BYAPR07MB5157BAC416D5B5E7C359F06CBD9A0@BYAPR07MB5157.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <001301d58287$794860c0$6bd92240$@ukpips.org.uk>

Following on from this earlier post, I've been digging around on the 'net
and have come up with what "appears to be" a helpful list. NFI but if I was
stuck for a paint colour code, I think I'd trust these various codes.

 

http://mustangattitude.com/cgi-bin/colorcodedisplay.cgi?make=Triumph
<http://mustangattitude.com/cgi-bin/colorcodedisplay.cgi?make=Triumph&con=k&
page=1&rows=50> &con=k&page=1&rows=50 

 

You've got nine pages of Standard-Triumph colours going from 1953 to past
the end of production and I feel that anything past 1982-ish is almost
certainly for motorcycles of the same name. Hope this helps?

 

Jonmac

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From wbeech at flash.net  Mon Oct 14 07:08:06 2019
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net)
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2019 08:08:06 -0500
Subject: [TR] Subject: Re:  Pain job for 1972 TR6
In-Reply-To: <001301d58287$794860c0$6bd92240$@ukpips.org.uk>
References: <001301d58287$794860c0$6bd92240$@ukpips.org.uk>
Message-ID: <B5A86B33-A18B-451A-890B-7CBD26ECE603@flash.net>

John,
You come though splendidly, great reference for many other cars/trucks as well.  Did Triumph never have a colour Old English White?
Cheers,
Bill

Cactus Jack drinks coffee black......BWS

> On Oct 14, 2019, at 7:04 AM, John Macartney <John.Macartney at ukpips.org.uk> wrote:
> 

?
Following on from this earlier post, I?ve been digging around on the ?net and have come up with what ?appears to be? a helpful list. NFI but if I was stuck for a paint colour code, I think I?d trust these various codes.
 
http://mustangattitude.com/cgi-bin/colorcodedisplay.cgi?make=Triumph&con=k&page=1&rows=50
 
You?ve got nine pages of Standard-Triumph colours going from 1953 to past the end of production and I feel that anything past 1982-ish is almost certainly for motorcycles of the same name. Hope this helps?
 
Jonmac
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk  Mon Oct 14 07:27:13 2019
From: John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2019 14:27:13 +0100
Subject: [TR] Subject: Re:  Pain job for 1972 TR6
In-Reply-To: <B5A86B33-A18B-451A-890B-7CBD26ECE603@flash.net>
References: <001301d58287$794860c0$6bd92240$@ukpips.org.uk>
 <B5A86B33-A18B-451A-890B-7CBD26ECE603@flash.net>
Message-ID: <847BEC47-ADBD-45C6-B4CE-691ADE02C949@Ukpips.org.uk>

Hi, Bill,

Old English White is a name and shade originating with BMC - Austin, Morris, MG, Riley and Wolseley. It has/had overtones of cream. This side of pond (in U.K.) everyone selling a white classic car of any make, always refers to it as being OEW. Don?t know why but it?s become a generic. Glad the paint code list helped. It?s all out there - you just have to throw a large net, use lots of different search criteria and just drill.

Cheers, Jonmac

Whenever I feel the need for exercise, experience has shown me it is better to lie down until the feeling goes away. WINSTON CHURCHILL

> On 14 Oct 2019, at 14:08, Wbeech at flash.net <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:
> 
> John,
> You come though splendidly, great reference for many other cars/trucks as well.  Did Triumph never have a colour Old English White?
> Cheers,
> Bill
> 
> Cactus Jack drinks coffee black......BWS
> 
>> On Oct 14, 2019, at 7:04 AM, John Macartney <John.Macartney at ukpips.org.uk> wrote:
>> 
> 
> ?
> Following on from this earlier post, I?ve been digging around on the ?net and have come up with what ?appears to be? a helpful list. NFI but if I was stuck for a paint colour code, I think I?d trust these various codes.
>  
> http://mustangattitude.com/cgi-bin/colorcodedisplay.cgi?make=Triumph&con=k&page=1&rows=50
>  
> You?ve got nine pages of Standard-Triumph colours going from 1953 to past the end of production and I feel that anything past 1982-ish is almost certainly for motorcycles of the same name. Hope this helps?
>  
> Jonmac
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net
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From terryrs at comcast.net  Mon Oct 14 07:45:14 2019
From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH)
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2019 09:45:14 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Subject: Re: Pain job for 1972 TR6
In-Reply-To: <001301d58287$794860c0$6bd92240$@ukpips.org.uk>
References: <BYAPR07MB5157BAC416D5B5E7C359F06CBD9A0@BYAPR07MB5157.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
 <001301d58287$794860c0$6bd92240$@ukpips.org.uk>
Message-ID: <572108388.1211862.1571060714188@connect.xfinity.com>

Hmmmm.....  Fascinating.  Thanks Jonmac.  Leaves me with a question.  My '59 TR3A came to me (in shambles, but stll) in a dark blue.  As I took the pieces off, it seems that was the original color.  I don't see it here, so must it have been a repaint?


Terry

> On October 14, 2019 at 8:04 AM John Macartney <john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk> wrote:
> 
> 
>     Following on from this earlier post, I?ve been digging around on the ?net and have come up with what ?appears to be? a helpful list. NFI but if I was stuck for a paint colour code, I think I?d trust these various codes.
> 
>      
> 
>     http://mustangattitude.com/cgi-bin/colorcodedisplay.cgi?make=Triumph&con=k&page=1&rows=50 http://mustangattitude.com/cgi-bin/colorcodedisplay.cgi?make=Triumph&con=k&page=1&rows=50
> 
>      
> 
>     You?ve got nine pages of Standard-Triumph colours going from 1953 to past the end of production and I feel that anything past 1982-ish is almost certainly for motorcycles of the same name. Hope this helps?
> 
>      
> 
>     Jonmac
> 


 

> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
> 
>     Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at comcast.net
> 


 
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From v6spitfireguy at cox.net  Mon Oct 14 12:35:25 2019
From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy v6spitfireguy)
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2019 14:35:25 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Triumph GT6 overdrive shift lever (155301)
Message-ID: <114518783.63153.1571078125571@myemail.cox.net>

Since the GT6 overdrive gear shift lever for the knob mounted switch (part number 155301) is made of unobtiainum and finding hens teeth is easier than locating a used one, I would like to machine another, correct one for my GT6.  Originally when I machined the one  in my car now, I didn?t have a GT6 lever only a Spitfire Non OD lever, and I patterned it after that.  However they are a bit longer than the GT6 overdrive ones and I haven?t been able to find a correct lever or even one in a car to measure it.  So if anyone has a GT6 with overdrive, and could give me a measurement I can extrapolate the rest.  The current OD lever I made, when shifted into first gear measures 10 inches from the top rear of the tunnel to the highest part of the shift knob cap (the one with the switch in it).  If I could get a similar measurement from a GT6 with the original OD lever in it, I can guesstimate the rest.  I don't want the column mounted switch, I LIKE the lever mounted one, but I would like it to be the correct length.

Of course, I would prefer to just purchase one if reasonable...


Barry Schwartz
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From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Oct 14 13:42:02 2019
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2019 12:42:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] Subject: Re: Pain job for 1972 TR6
In-Reply-To: <572108388.1211862.1571060714188@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <BYAPR07MB5157BAC416D5B5E7C359F06CBD9A0@BYAPR07MB5157.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
 <001301d58287$794860c0$6bd92240$@ukpips.org.uk>
 <572108388.1211862.1571060714188@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <F56ADFC2076E427B969F993700100D26@RYPC>

It's hard to get colors on a computer screen to look like the color on a
car.  To my eyes, the scanned paint chip I have for Cotswold Blue looks a
very credible "dark blue"; while the web page that Jonmac linked to seems to
not actually have a color chip for it and perhaps is just showing a dark
gray color by default.

Eg,
http://topclassiccarsforsale.com/triumph/213026-1961-triumph-tr3arestored-co
tswold-blue-excellent-condition.html
(note how the shade of blue appears to change slightly even between photos
of the same car)

I also feel that the chip shown on that site for "Renoir Blue" is wrong.
Although certainly not what I'd call a "dark" blue, it's very definitely
blue. Eg,
http://classiccars.brightwells.com/viewdetails.php?id=4754

-- Randall 
56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild
71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild 
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From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Oct 14 13:53:57 2019
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2019 12:53:57 -0700
Subject: [TR] Subject: Re: Pain job for 1972 TR6
In-Reply-To: <F56ADFC2076E427B969F993700100D26@RYPC>
References: <BYAPR07MB5157BAC416D5B5E7C359F06CBD9A0@BYAPR07MB5157.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
 <001301d58287$794860c0$6bd92240$@ukpips.org.uk>
 <572108388.1211862.1571060714188@connect.xfinity.com>
 <F56ADFC2076E427B969F993700100D26@RYPC>
Message-ID: <D3D6B50362924C8B9CFA49ECEB65BE3F@RYPC>

Oops, sorry.  Here's a short version of the first link
https://tinyurl.com/yxo5syfs

-- Randall 
56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild
71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On 
> Behalf Of Randall
> Sent: Monday, October 14, 2019 12:42 PM
> To: 'TERRY SMITH'; 'Gene M'; triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] Subject: Re: Pain job for 1972 TR6
> 
> It's hard to get colors on a computer screen to look like the 
> color on a car.  To my eyes, the scanned paint chip I have 
> for Cotswold Blue looks a very credible "dark blue"; while 
> the web page that Jonmac linked to seems to not actually have 
> a color chip for it and perhaps is just showing a dark gray 
> color by default.
> 
> Eg,
> http://topclassiccarsforsale.com/triumph/213026-1961-triumph-t
r3arestored-co
> tswold-blue-excellent-condition.html
> (note how the shade of blue appears to change slightly even 
> between photos of the same car)
> 
> I also feel that the chip shown on that site for "Renoir 
> Blue" is wrong.
> Although certainly not what I'd call a "dark" blue, it's very 
> definitely blue. Eg,
> http://classiccars.brightwells.com/viewdetails.php?id=4754
> 
> -- Randall
> 56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
> 71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild
> 71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild 
> 


From coefront at shaw.ca  Mon Oct 14 14:03:40 2019
From: coefront at shaw.ca (Michael Coe)
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2019 14:03:40 -0600
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 12, Issue 231
In-Reply-To: <mailman.8.1570989603.25421.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.8.1570989603.25421.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <3428E000-4FEB-4DE8-A563-E3E6268C12C2@shaw.ca>



Please advertise my TR8 for sale.
Thanks

1982 TR8 Triumph. Always well maintained by a local sports car garage. Mileage?96161 Km (approximately 71,000 miles}. Owned since June 22nd, 2006. Not driven much over the past few years; during which time I was wafling on selling.5 speed transmission. 220 Km speedometer. Two year old battery. EFI. 15 inch Mag wheels. 6 CD player. AM/FM radio/one CD. Alternator. Up graded speakers. Electric radio antenna. Roll bar. Wind deflector. Half tonneau cover. Quaife limited slip differential. Dash cover {when car parked}. Weather cockpit cover. Trunk rack with third brake light. Stainless steel dual exhaust. Interior trunk light. 15? alloy wheels. 185/55/R15 tires. K&N filter. Upgraded larger front disc brakes. Carpet mats. Electric radiator fan. Aluminum radiator. Oil cooler. K & N filter. Triple air horns with dash control for full blast or a tune. Updated driving lights. Headers. Cross engine brace. Battery disconnect switch. Some LED bulbs. Two sets of keys. TR8 key fob. Insured for $20,000.00. But consider reasonable offers. This is a ?neat? TR8.
Mike Coe.  Calgary.  Alberta. 403-281-0363

> On Oct 13, 2019, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:
> 
> Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to
> 	triumphs at autox.team.net
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> 	http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> 	triumphs-request at autox.team.net
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
> 	triumphs-owner at autox.team.net
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. battery, alternator, or gremlin? (Peter Arakelian)
>   2. Re: battery, alternator, or gremlin? (Randall)
>   3. Re: battery, alternator, or gremlin? (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
>   4. Re: battery, alternator, or gremlin? (Randall)
>   5. Re: battery, alternator, or gremlin? (Peter Arakelian)
>   6. Re: battery, alternator, or gremlin? (DAVID MASSEY)
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2019 18:57:36 +0000
> From: Peter Arakelian <PeterAra at msn.com>
> To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [TR] battery, alternator, or gremlin?
> Message-ID:
> 	<DM5PR06MB3564EF3562AEFA69BC8BA6AAC1960 at DM5PR06MB3564.namprd06.prod.outlook.com>
> 	
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> 1971 TR6.  Driving home last night I noticed my ammeter was at the + sign, half-way between neutral and full.  It is a 40 mile drive, stayed there the entire way.  I stopped to pick up a pizza.  the car cranked and started as usual after a 20 min stop.  Ammeter was now halfway between the neutral position and the + sign.  today I checked volage of battery from pole to pole: 12.60 volts.  Start the car today, cranked and started as usual, ammeter shows normal - slight charge at first then to neutral position.
> Battery, alternator, or Gremlin?
> 
> Peter Arakelian
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2019 12:12:14 -0700
> From: "Randall" <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>
> To: "'Peter Arakelian'" <PeterAra at msn.com>,	<triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] battery, alternator, or gremlin?
> Message-ID: <1CF4601CBCCB4C31A01E23EB63D5AADA at RYPC>
> Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Most likely a gremlin in the alternator, IMO.
> 
> Kind of dangerous, running around with the alternator stuck on "full on".
> The electrolyte in the battery "boils", which isn't water changing to steam
> but instead water being separated into oxygen and hydrogen.  Normally, the
> explosive gas mixture escapes out the vents and dissipates with no harm done
> (until the battery runs low on electrolyte).  But any kind of spark nearby
> can set it off, resulting in a battery explosion.
> 
> I suggest carrying a voltmeter/DMM in the car.  Next time it happens (if
> there is a next time), pull over and check battery voltage with engine at a
> fast idle.  If you see more than about 14.4 volts, shut the engine off and
> disconnect the alternator for the drive home.  Should be no problem driving
> for 4 or 5 hours without the alternator and no headlights, 2 or 3 hours with
> headlights.
> 
> You'll also know for sure that it's the alternator gone wonky, and not a
> shorted cell in the battery.  I suppose it's possible for a shorted cell to
> un-short; but I've never seen it happen.
> 
> -- Randall 
> 56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
> 71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild
> 71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild 
> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On 
>> Behalf Of Peter Arakelian
>> Sent: Saturday, October 12, 2019 11:58 AM
>> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
>> Subject: [TR] battery, alternator, or gremlin?
>> 
>> 1971 TR6.  Driving home last night I noticed my ammeter was 
>> at the + sign, half-way between neutral and full.  It is a 40 
>> mile drive, stayed there the entire way.  I stopped to pick 
>> up a pizza.  the car cranked and started as usual after a 20 
>> min stop.  Ammeter was now halfway between the neutral 
>> position and the + sign.  today I checked volage of battery 
>> from pole to pole: 12.60 volts.  Start the car today, cranked 
>> and started as usual, ammeter shows normal - slight charge at 
>> first then to neutral position.
>> Battery, alternator, or Gremlin?
>> 
>> Peter Arakelian
>> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 3
> Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2019 12:21:54 -0700
> From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman at gmail.com>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] battery, alternator, or gremlin?
> Message-ID: <c9373c63-182c-262b-5c4c-984106d34567 at gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"
> 
> On 10/12/19 11:57 AM, Peter Arakelian wrote:
>> 1971 TR6.? Driving home last night I noticed my ammeter was at the + 
>> sign, half-way between neutral and full.? It is a 40 mile drive, 
>> stayed there the entire way.? I stopped to pick up a pizza.? the car 
>> cranked and started as usual after a 20 min stop.? Ammeter was now 
>> halfway between the neutral position and the + sign.? today I checked 
>> volage of battery from pole to pole: 12.60 volts.? Start the car 
>> today, cranked and started as usual, ammeter shows normal - slight 
>> charge at first then to neutral position.
>> Battery, alternator, or Gremlin?
>> Peter Arakelian
> 
> 1. Throw away you ammeter or ebay it) and replace it with a volt meter 
> so you can see what is really going on.
> 
> 2. Take your car to most any auto parts store. They can test the 
> condition of your battery and your alternator for FREE.
> 
> TeriAnn
> 
> With a Smiths volt meter in my TR3.
> 
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 4
> Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2019 13:00:28 -0700
> From: "Randall" <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] battery, alternator, or gremlin?
> Message-ID: <6EE4BAA114BE4B7C831331307EF2225F at RYPC>
> Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="us-ascii"
> 
> 
>> 1. Throw away you ammeter or ebay it) and replace it with a 
>> volt meter so you can see what is really going on.
> 
> I'd just like to point out that, if the problem had been a shorted battery
> cell, a voltmeter would likely not have shown anything out of the ordinary.
> The alternator would have charged 5 cells to the region of 13 or 14 volts;
> which is a drastic overcharge but the voltage is still fine.  To really get
> a complete picture, you need both.
> 
> But temporarily checking with a voltmeter is a lot easier than temporarily
> checking with an ammeter.  If you want, you can even get a voltmeter that
> plugs into a cigarette lighter socket.
> 
> -- Randall
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 5
> Date: Sat, 12 Oct 2019 23:15:27 +0000
> From: Peter Arakelian <PeterAra at msn.com>
> To: Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>
> Cc: "triumphs at autox.team.net" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] battery, alternator, or gremlin?
> Message-ID:
> 	<DM5PR06MB35645990C32F878F974EE457C1960 at DM5PR06MB3564.namprd06.prod.outlook.com>
> 	
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Thanx, just the advice I needed to diagnose
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10
> 
> 
> 
> ________________________________
> From: Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>
> Sent: Saturday, October 12, 2019 12:12:14 PM
> To: 'Peter Arakelian' <PeterAra at msn.com>; triumphs at autox.team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: RE: [TR] battery, alternator, or gremlin?
> 
> Most likely a gremlin in the alternator, IMO.
> 
> Kind of dangerous, running around with the alternator stuck on "full on".
> The electrolyte in the battery "boils", which isn't water changing to steam
> but instead water being separated into oxygen and hydrogen.  Normally, the
> explosive gas mixture escapes out the vents and dissipates with no harm done
> (until the battery runs low on electrolyte).  But any kind of spark nearby
> can set it off, resulting in a battery explosion.
> 
> I suggest carrying a voltmeter/DMM in the car.  Next time it happens (if
> there is a next time), pull over and check battery voltage with engine at a
> fast idle.  If you see more than about 14.4 volts, shut the engine off and
> disconnect the alternator for the drive home.  Should be no problem driving
> for 4 or 5 hours without the alternator and no headlights, 2 or 3 hours with
> headlights.
> 
> You'll also know for sure that it's the alternator gone wonky, and not a
> shorted cell in the battery.  I suppose it's possible for a shorted cell to
> un-short; but I've never seen it happen.
> 
> -- Randall
> 56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
> 71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild
> 71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild
> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
>> Behalf Of Peter Arakelian
>> Sent: Saturday, October 12, 2019 11:58 AM
>> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
>> Subject: [TR] battery, alternator, or gremlin?
>> 
>> 1971 TR6.  Driving home last night I noticed my ammeter was
>> at the + sign, half-way between neutral and full.  It is a 40
>> mile drive, stayed there the entire way.  I stopped to pick
>> up a pizza.  the car cranked and started as usual after a 20
>> min stop.  Ammeter was now halfway between the neutral
>> position and the + sign.  today I checked volage of battery
>> from pole to pole: 12.60 volts.  Start the car today, cranked
>> and started as usual, ammeter shows normal - slight charge at
>> first then to neutral position.
>> Battery, alternator, or Gremlin?
>> 
>> Peter Arakelian
>> 
> 
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 6
> Date: Sun, 13 Oct 2019 14:21:54 +0000 (UTC)
> From: DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com>
> To: PeterAra at msn.com, triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] battery, alternator, or gremlin?
> Message-ID: <46817477.576872.1570976514323 at mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Hello, Peter.? I had a similar experience.? My ammeter suddenly started something similar in the middle of a drive so when I got home I checked battery voltage both engine-off and engine-running and voltages were normal.? So I concluded the battery was starting to fail.? The battery shop checked it with their big, heavy, fancy tester and pronounced it good but I was not comfortable with that diagnosis so I bought a new one anyway.? It was a seven year old battery and I had a gift card so what the heck.? I installed the battery and all was back to normal.
> I probably could have run that battery for a few more months before it failed altogether but that could have been on the middle of my trip to Dripping Springs.? ON a Sunday.? On I-35 in Dallas.
> 
> As Randall said, you need both a volt meter and an ammeter to diagnose a problem.? Basically, the voltmeter will indicate the health of the charging system and the ammeter will indicate the health of the battery - but only if the charging system is working properly.? A charging system malfunction can give you the same ammeter reading as a failing battery so the ammeter along is not enough.? And a pending battery failure will not necessarily show on the load tester.
> Good luck.
> 
> Dave 
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Peter Arakelian <PeterAra at msn.com>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sat, Oct 12, 2019 1:57 pm
> Subject: [TR] battery, alternator, or gremlin?
> 
> 1971 TR6.? Driving home last night I noticed my ammeter was at the + sign, half-way between neutral and full.? It is a 40 mile drive, stayed there the entire way.? I stopped to pick up a pizza.? the car cranked and started as usual after a 20 min stop.? Ammeter was now halfway between the neutral position and the + sign.? today I checked volage of battery from pole to pole: 12.60 volts.? Start the car today, cranked and started as usual, ammeter shows normal - slight charge at first then to neutral position.Battery, alternator, or Gremlin??Peter Arakelian** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com
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> ------------------------------
> 
> Subject: Digest Footer
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Triumphs mailing list
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 12, Issue 231
> *****************************************

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From John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk  Mon Oct 14 14:21:51 2019
From: John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2019 21:21:51 +0100
Subject: [TR] Subject: Re: Pain job for 1972 TR6
In-Reply-To: <D3D6B50362924C8B9CFA49ECEB65BE3F@RYPC>
References: <BYAPR07MB5157BAC416D5B5E7C359F06CBD9A0@BYAPR07MB5157.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
 <001301d58287$794860c0$6bd92240$@ukpips.org.uk>
 <572108388.1211862.1571060714188@connect.xfinity.com>
 <F56ADFC2076E427B969F993700100D26@RYPC>
 <D3D6B50362924C8B9CFA49ECEB65BE3F@RYPC>
Message-ID: <DE356CC3-0010-433E-86A3-85FC2D4543BC@Ukpips.org.uk>

Re Cotswold Blue. You may find it under a Jaguar heading as both companies used the same colour under the same name at the same time.

Jonmac

Whenever I feel the need for exercise, experience has shown me it is better to lie down until the feeling goes away. WINSTON CHURCHILL

> On 14 Oct 2019, at 20:53, Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
> 
> Oops, sorry.  Here's a short version of the first link
> https://tinyurl.com/yxo5syfs
> 
> -- Randall 
> 56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
> 71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild
> 71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild 
> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On 
>> Behalf Of Randall
>> Sent: Monday, October 14, 2019 12:42 PM
>> To: 'TERRY SMITH'; 'Gene M'; triumphs at autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [TR] Subject: Re: Pain job for 1972 TR6
>> 
>> It's hard to get colors on a computer screen to look like the 
>> color on a car.  To my eyes, the scanned paint chip I have 
>> for Cotswold Blue looks a very credible "dark blue"; while 
>> the web page that Jonmac linked to seems to not actually have 
>> a color chip for it and perhaps is just showing a dark gray 
>> color by default.
>> 
>> Eg,
>> http://topclassiccarsforsale.com/triumph/213026-1961-triumph-t
> r3arestored-co
>> tswold-blue-excellent-condition.html
>> (note how the shade of blue appears to change slightly even 
>> between photos of the same car)
>> 
>> I also feel that the chip shown on that site for "Renoir 
>> Blue" is wrong.
>> Although certainly not what I'd call a "dark" blue, it's very 
>> definitely blue. Eg,
>> http://classiccars.brightwells.com/viewdetails.php?id=4754
>> 
>> -- Randall
>> 56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
>> 71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild
>> 71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild 
>> 
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk


From j_bar_j at hotmail.com  Tue Oct 15 12:24:31 2019
From: j_bar_j at hotmail.com (Joel E. Justin)
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2019 18:24:31 +0000
Subject: [TR] Triumph GT6 overdrive shift lever (155301)
In-Reply-To: <114518783.63153.1571078125571@myemail.cox.net>
References: <114518783.63153.1571078125571@myemail.cox.net>
Message-ID: <CY4PR13MB0951E1E33EE0685D6C21FE9BBE930@CY4PR13MB0951.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>

Barry,

I did find a GT6 OD gear shift lever recently and purchased it. But I don't know if it's original GT6 or Spitfire or ????. I can't take the measurement you are asking for as my gearbox is apart being rebuilt, but I can take various measurements of the lever on the bench if you'd like.

Joel...

________________________________
From: v6spitfireguy v6spitfireguy <v6spitfireguy at cox.net>
Sent: Monday, October 14, 2019 11:35 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Cc: spitfires at autox.team.net <spitfires at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Triumph GT6 overdrive shift lever (155301)


Since the GT6 overdrive gear shift lever for the knob mounted switch (part number 155301) is made of unobtiainum and finding hens teeth is easier than locating a used one, I would like to machine another, correct one for my GT6.  Originally when I machined the one  in my car now, I didn?t have a GT6 lever only a Spitfire Non OD lever, and I patterned it after that.  However they are a bit longer than the GT6 overdrive ones and I haven?t been able to find a correct lever or even one in a car to measure it.  So if anyone has a GT6 with overdrive, and could give me a measurement I can extrapolate the rest.  The current OD lever I made, when shifted into first gear measures 10 inches from the top rear of the tunnel to the highest part of the shift knob cap (the one with the switch in it).  If I could get a similar measurement from a GT6 with the original OD lever in it, I can guesstimate the rest.  I don't want the column mounted switch, I LIKE the lever mounted one, but I would like it to be the correct length.

Of course, I would prefer to just purchase one if reasonable...


Barry Schwartz
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From erkanhassan at yahoo.com  Tue Oct 15 12:33:05 2019
From: erkanhassan at yahoo.com (Erkan Hassan)
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2019 18:33:05 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] 62 TR3 Leaf Spring replacement
References: <1568490712.1288393.1571164385202.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1568490712.1288393.1571164385202@mail.yahoo.com>

Listers,
I am preparing for a front and rear suspension rebuild this winter.? As I research this, I learned the rear springs have a pin that goes through the frame rail and after 56 years is most likely rusted in place.
The manual says thread a 5/16 x 24 bolt with washers in from the rail side a pull the bolt out (after removing caster nut and pin).??
1.? Clean out the threads on the center of car side2.? It looks like a tight space and only enough room for a 2 inch bolt to fit.3.? The threads on a 2 inch bolt only go half way up, so I purchased a few large washers and will try the screw bolt into head and use pry bar to remove pin.
not really expecting it to work
I think the other option, and where I am seeking the wisdom of the list is:
IF I can find a 24 thread bolt or rod (of 2 inches) have a nut at the top next to bolt head or if rod 2 nuts, add large washers and some type of pipe (but it will most likely be only 1 inch long).? Screw rod into the pin head.? Secure head of bolt or rod and turn the nut to press washers and pipe onto the frame with an internal diameter slightly larger than the bolt head.? Keep tightening until pin comes out.
Do I have this right?? any other thoughts or advice here?
has anyone used the Go2 socket?? Screw 5/16 bolt into pin head and turn the Go2 until it releases the pin???
thanks for your helpErkan
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From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Oct 15 13:24:01 2019
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2019 12:24:01 -0700
Subject: [TR] 62 TR3 Leaf Spring replacement
In-Reply-To: <1568490712.1288393.1571164385202@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1568490712.1288393.1571164385202.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1568490712.1288393.1571164385202@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <626D7F3BD95247CB9C38AC451A99D0D6@RYPC>

What I did was to buy hardened threaded rod from McMaster-Carr, along with
some hardened nuts and heavy hardened flat washers (aka setup washers).
Prying was clearly not going to cut it on my TR3A.  A 3' length is under $7
(ISTR it was about $5 when I did this, it's been a few years ago).
https://www.mcmaster.com/90322a687

I found a socket that would fit over both the head of the pin, and the
little piece that sticks out from the frame to keep the pin from turning.
Cleaned out the threads in the pin with a bottoming tap (to ensure I got the
threaded rod in as far as possible), cut about a 4" length (IIRC) and used
two nuts to turn it in as far as it would go.  On both my 3A and on my TR3,
there is a hole in the frame for the pin (and rod) to pass through.

Soaking the joints (as much as you can) with your favorite penetrating oil
may help too.  Last time I went through this, I let them soak for a couple
of weeks, with periodic pounding (vibration helps the oil penetrate) and
adding more oil.  Kroil and PB Blaster are my two top choices, far more
effective in my experience than the home brew "weasel pee" that some folks
are so fond of or the Liquid Wrench I used long ago.  It seemed to come out
a lot easier than the first one, possibly the soaking helped.  Anyway, can't
hurt.

When I started the pull on the first one, using the longest box end wrench I
had, I thought for sure the threads were going to strip.  It was close, but
the crack! was the pin starting to move.  It fought me all the way, but I
got both of them out without ruining the pins.  Both the nut and the
threaded rod were visibly worn after the first one, though, so I cut a new
piece to do the other side.

When the pin head hits the inside of the socket, of course, you remove the
nut, washer and socket, then add a suitable length of pipe between the
socket and frame.  I had to do that several times per side.  Don't recall
for sure, but ISTR I used 3/4" black iron water pipe for the spacers.
Again, it has to fit over the head of the pin and the little piece that
sticks out of the frame.

A generous coating of anti-seize will help next time (if there is a next
time).  As it happened, I had to remove the pins on the 3A some 20 years
later, and they just slid right out.  (I like the copper-based bronze
colored stuff; the others don't seem to work nearly as well for me.)

Sorry, not familiar with "the Go2 socket".

Oh yeah, one of those cheap angle grinders from Harbor Freight, plus an
abrasive cutoff blade, will make quick work of cutting the hardened threaded
rod.  No sense tearing up a hacksaw blade.  Be sure to wear eye protection
though.
<https://www.harborfreight.com/corded-4-12-in-43-amp-angle-grinder-69645.htm
l>
<https://www.harborfreight.com/pack-of-10-4-1-2-half-inch-cut-off-wheels-for
-metal-45430.html>

-- Randall 
56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild
71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild 

> IF I can find a 24 thread bolt or rod (of 2 inches) have a 
> nut at the top next to bolt head or if rod 2 nuts, add large 
> washers and some type of pipe (but it will most likely be 
> only 1 inch long).  Screw rod into the pin head.  Secure head 
> of bolt or rod and turn the nut to press washers and pipe 
> onto the frame with an internal diameter slightly larger than 
> the bolt head.  Keep tightening until pin comes out.


From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Oct 15 13:33:45 2019
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2019 12:33:45 -0700
Subject: [TR] 62 TR3 Leaf Spring replacement
In-Reply-To: <626D7F3BD95247CB9C38AC451A99D0D6@RYPC>
References: <1568490712.1288393.1571164385202.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1568490712.1288393.1571164385202@mail.yahoo.com>
 <626D7F3BD95247CB9C38AC451A99D0D6@RYPC>
Message-ID: <7624C0E838DF441FAD5B0F964E2A46C4@RYPC>


Drat, I keep forgetting.  Those links again
https://is.gd/xrUN4V
https://is.gd/CpU1uQ

> Oh yeah, one of those cheap angle grinders from Harbor 
> Freight, plus an abrasive cutoff blade, will make quick work 
> of cutting the hardened threaded rod.  No sense tearing up a 
> hacksaw blade.  Be sure to wear eye protection though.
> <https://www.harborfreight.com/corded-4-12-in-43-amp-angle-gri
nder-69645.htm
> l>
> <https://www.harborfreight.com/pack-of-10-4-1-2-half-inch-cut-
> off-wheels-for
> -metal-45430.html>
> 


From greg at gelhar.com  Mon Oct 14 07:47:17 2019
From: greg at gelhar.com (Greg Gelhar)
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2019 08:47:17 -0500
Subject: [TR] Subject: Re:  Pain job for 1972 TR6
In-Reply-To: <B5A86B33-A18B-451A-890B-7CBD26ECE603@flash.net>
References: <001301d58287$794860c0$6bd92240$@ukpips.org.uk>
 <B5A86B33-A18B-451A-890B-7CBD26ECE603@flash.net>
Message-ID: <007c01d58295$e89f0010$b9dd0030$@gelhar.com>

A few years back, I did the same search for Old English White. My painter found FORD Wimbledon White and the TR3 looked fantastic. I can?t recall any code numbers.

 

Greg G.

Osseo, MN

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of wbeech at flash.net
Sent: Monday, October 14, 2019 8:08 AM
To: john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk
Cc: Gene M <mclans at sbcglobal.net>; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Subject: Re: Pain job for 1972 TR6

 

John,

You come though splendidly, great reference for many other cars/trucks as well.  Did Triumph never have a colour Old English White?

Cheers,

Bill

Cactus Jack drinks coffee black......BWS





On Oct 14, 2019, at 7:04 AM, John Macartney <John.Macartney at ukpips.org.uk <mailto:John.Macartney at ukpips.org.uk> > wrote:

?

Following on from this earlier post, I?ve been digging around on the ?net and have come up with what ?appears to be? a helpful list. NFI but if I was stuck for a paint colour code, I think I?d trust these various codes.

 

http://mustangattitude.com/cgi-bin/colorcodedisplay.cgi?make=Triumph <http://mustangattitude.com/cgi-bin/colorcodedisplay.cgi?make=Triumph&con=k&page=1&rows=50> &con=k&page=1&rows=50 

 

You?ve got nine pages of Standard-Triumph colours going from 1953 to past the end of production and I feel that anything past 1982-ish is almost certainly for motorcycles of the same name. Hope this helps?

 

Jonmac

** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>  **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From dlhogye at comcast.net  Mon Oct 14 08:15:40 2019
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE)
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2019 07:15:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Subject: Re: Pain job for 1972 TR6
In-Reply-To: <572108388.1211862.1571060714188@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <BYAPR07MB5157BAC416D5B5E7C359F06CBD9A0@BYAPR07MB5157.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
 <001301d58287$794860c0$6bd92240$@ukpips.org.uk>
 <572108388.1211862.1571060714188@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <2047182722.67587.1571062540767@connect.xfinity.com>

Yes.  Thanks Jon.
I too have been wondering about a certain Triumph color.  Pearl White.  My '54 Long Door TR2 was originally Pearl White with blue interior and there is lots of white left in certain areas, but I don't see any pearl in it.  Can anyone comment on this Triumph color?  It just looks like a bright white to me.  
Thanks, Dave H.

> On October 14, 2019 at 6:45 AM TERRY SMITH <terryrs at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> 
>     Hmmmm.....  Fascinating.  Thanks Jonmac.  Leaves me with a question.  My '59 TR3A came to me (in shambles, but stll) in a dark blue.  As I took the pieces off, it seems that was the original color.  I don't see it here, so must it have been a repaint?
> 
> 
>     Terry
> 
>         > > On October 14, 2019 at 8:04 AM John Macartney <john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk> wrote:
> > 
> > 
> >         Following on from this earlier post, I?ve been digging around on the ?net and have come up with what ?appears to be? a helpful list. NFI but if I was stuck for a paint colour code, I think I?d trust these various codes.
> > 
> >          
> > 
> >         http://mustangattitude.com/cgi-bin/colorcodedisplay.cgi?make=Triumph&con=k&page=1&rows=50
> > 
> >          
> > 
> >         You?ve got nine pages of Standard-Triumph colours going from 1953 to past the end of production and I feel that anything past 1982-ish is almost certainly for motorcycles of the same name. Hope this helps?
> > 
> >          
> > 
> >         Jonmac
> > 
> >     > 
> 
>      
> 
>         > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> > 
> >         Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >         Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
> > 
> >         Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at comcast.net
> > 
> >     > 
> 
>      
> 
>     ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
> 
>     Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye at comcast.net
> 


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From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Mon Oct 14 08:25:03 2019
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay)
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2019 09:25:03 -0500
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Subject: Re:  Pain job for 1972 TR6
In-Reply-To: <001301d58287$794860c0$6bd92240$@ukpips.org.uk>
References: <BYAPR07MB5157BAC416D5B5E7C359F06CBD9A0@BYAPR07MB5157.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
 <001301d58287$794860c0$6bd92240$@ukpips.org.uk>
Message-ID: <CAOc+-dxZz+hqTzDWeiTfb=fBPSSfjKD6t3Evw2iEmbG7+PYvgg@mail.gmail.com>

Thank you. Great resource.

On Mon, Oct 14, 2019, 7:04 AM John Macartney via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> Following on from this earlier post, I?ve been digging around on the ?net
> and have come up with what ?appears to be? a helpful list. NFI but if I was
> stuck for a paint colour code, I think I?d trust these various codes.
>
>
>
>
> http://mustangattitude.com/cgi-bin/colorcodedisplay.cgi?make=Triumph&con=k&page=1&rows=50
>
>
>
> You?ve got nine pages of Standard-Triumph colours going from 1953 to past
> the end of production and I feel that anything past 1982-ish is almost
> certainly for motorcycles of the same name. Hope this helps?
>
>
>
> Jonmac
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/richardolindsay at gmail.com
>
>
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From tr3abobm77 at frontier.com  Wed Oct 16 08:08:36 2019
From: tr3abobm77 at frontier.com (Triumph)
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2019 10:08:36 -0400
Subject: [TR] Paint color discussion
Message-ID: <001b01d5842b$343a3df0$9caeb9d0$@frontier.com>

I found the paint color discussion interesting in that I painted my 59 TR3A Cotswold Blue in 2001. My local auto paint store had a 59 Triumph color code sheet in one of their books and they scanned it to mix up my paint. I saw a picture of a Jag XK150 on a magazine cover a while back and it said it was Cotswold Blue and it looked very close to my color. I attached 3 other XK150 pictures and they all show colors close to mine. I just Googled ?cotswold blue xk150? to find these. Actually, when I type ?cotswold blue tr3a? into Google, the first picture I see is my TR3A with the white top on it. While I think the blue in the car ad Randall posted is attractive, I am not sure where they are getting Cotswold Blue from that.

 

Bob Maassel

59 TR3A

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From wbeech at flash.net  Wed Oct 16 10:48:39 2019
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2019 11:48:39 -0500
Subject: [TR] Paint color discussion
In-Reply-To: <001b01d5842b$343a3df0$9caeb9d0$@frontier.com>
References: <001b01d5842b$343a3df0$9caeb9d0$@frontier.com>
Message-ID: <000801d58441$8fd836b0$af88a410$@flash.net>

Gee, all this time I thought my ?58 TR3A was Old English White.  If I understand the chart and this discussion correctly I suppose it is Pearl White, with Spa White being the brighter/whiter choice.  

Bill

 

From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Triumph
Sent: Wednesday, October 16, 2019 9:09 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Paint color discussion

 

I found the paint color discussion interesting in that I painted my 59 TR3A Cotswold Blue in 2001. My local auto paint store had a 59 Triumph color code sheet in one of their books and they scanned it to mix up my paint. I saw a picture of a Jag XK150 on a magazine cover a while back and it said it was Cotswold Blue and it looked very close to my color. I attached 3 other XK150 pictures and they all show colors close to mine. I just Googled ?cotswold blue xk150? to find these. Actually, when I type ?cotswold blue tr3a? into Google, the first picture I see is my TR3A with the white top on it. While I think the blue in the car ad Randall posted is attractive, I am not sure where they are getting Cotswold Blue from that.

 

Bob Maassel

59 TR3A

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From PeterAra at msn.com  Wed Oct 16 11:43:23 2019
From: PeterAra at msn.com (Peter Arakelian)
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2019 17:43:23 +0000
Subject: [TR] alternator, battery, or gremlin - update
Message-ID: <DM5PR06MB3564FAC21CD3DC27D238F115C1920@DM5PR06MB3564.namprd06.prod.outlook.com>

So I started the car this AM.  No problems, cranked fast and normal.  Ammeter showed to + a little ways, went down quickly to neutral.  Raised RPMs to about 1400 voltage across battery 14.06.
I am going to go with Gremlin.  Keeping my voltmeter in car, in case.
Thanks to all for advice.

Peter Arakelian - 1971 TR6
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From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Oct 16 15:02:38 2019
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2019 14:02:38 -0700
Subject: [TR] Paint color discussion
In-Reply-To: <001b01d5842b$343a3df0$9caeb9d0$@frontier.com>
References: <001b01d5842b$343a3df0$9caeb9d0$@frontier.com>
Message-ID: <24F12CAD19D34C47ABB2F3D37E6E82BB@RYPC>

I don't know either; but I think you'll agree that the examples you gave
don't match the color given on the website that Jonmac linked to either.
Which was my original point, I don';t think the color shown is correct.
 
Here's the scanned color chip I mentioned before:
https://www.vintagetriumphregister.org/maintain/paint-charts/acme2.jpg
 
I'll add that it seems more likely to me that Standard-Triumphs' "Cotswold
Blue" was not the same as Jaguar's "Cotswold Blue".  But again, I don't know
that.

-- Randall
56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild
71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild 

 


  _____  

From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Triumph
Sent: Wednesday, October 16, 2019 7:09 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Paint color discussion



I found the paint color discussion interesting in that I painted my 59 TR3A
Cotswold Blue in 2001. My local auto paint store had a 59 Triumph color code
sheet in one of their books and they scanned it to mix up my paint. I saw a
picture of a Jag XK150 on a magazine cover a while back and it said it was
Cotswold Blue and it looked very close to my color. I attached 3 other XK150
pictures and they all show colors close to mine. I just Googled "cotswold
blue xk150" to find these. Actually, when I type "cotswold blue tr3a" into
Google, the first picture I see is my TR3A with the white top on it. While I
think the blue in the car ad Randall posted is attractive, I am not sure
where they are getting Cotswold Blue from that.

 

Bob Maassel

59 TR3A

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From tr3abobm77 at frontier.com  Wed Oct 16 17:42:08 2019
From: tr3abobm77 at frontier.com (Triumph)
Date: Wed, 16 Oct 2019 19:42:08 -0400
Subject: [TR] Paint color discussion
In-Reply-To: <24F12CAD19D34C47ABB2F3D37E6E82BB@RYPC>
References: <001b01d5842b$343a3df0$9caeb9d0$@frontier.com>
 <24F12CAD19D34C47ABB2F3D37E6E82BB@RYPC>
Message-ID: <000001d5847b$534851f0$f9d8f5d0$@frontier.com>

The paint chip the store scanned for me years
ago, on a chart that said 59 Triumph, looks just
like the Cotswold Blue on the chart you linked
to. When I got the paint it did look lighter
than I thought it was going to be. But as I
mentioned it is very close to all the Jag
pictures I've seen since then so I chalked it up
to how the scanners interpret the colors. I have
seen one other Triumph that the owner said he
had painted Cotswold Blue and it was close to
mine also. I usually describe it as a smoky
medium blue. I have gotten a lot of compliments
over the years for the color choice so I guess
that's all that matters.

Bob Maassel

 

 

From: Triumphs
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Wednesday, October 16, 2019 5:03 PM
To: 'Triumph' <tr3abobm77 at frontier.com>;
triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Paint color discussion

 

I don't know either; but I think you'll agree
that the examples you gave don't match the color
given on the website that Jonmac linked to
either.  Which was my original point, I don';t
think the color shown is correct.

 

Here's the scanned color chip I mentioned
before:

 
<https://www.vintagetriumphregister.org/maintain
/paint-charts/acme2.jpg>
https://www.vintagetriumphregister.org/maintain/
paint-charts/acme2jpg

 

I'll add that it seems more likely to me that
Standard-Triumphs' "Cotswold Blue" was not the
same as Jaguar's "Cotswold Blue".  But again, I
don't know that.

-- Randall
56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild
71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild 

 

 

  _____  

From: Triumphs [
<mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net>
mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Triumph
Sent: Wednesday, October 16, 2019 7:09 AM
To:  <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>
triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Paint color discussion

I found the paint color discussion interesting
in that I painted my 59 TR3A Cotswold Blue in
2001. My local auto paint store had a 59 Triumph
color code sheet in one of their books and they
scanned it to mix up my paint. I saw a picture
of a Jag XK150 on a magazine cover a while back
and it said it was Cotswold Blue and it looked
very close to my color. I attached 3 other XK150
pictures and they all show colors close to mine.
I just Googled "cotswold blue xk150" to find
these. Actually, when I type "cotswold blue
tr3a" into Google, the first picture I see is my
TR3A with the white top on it. While I think the
blue in the car ad Randall posted is attractive,
I am not sure where they are getting Cotswold
Blue from that.

 

Bob Maassel

59 TR3A

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From anabil007 at comcast.net  Thu Oct 17 10:57:15 2019
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh)
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2019 09:57:15 -0700
Subject: [TR] Paint color discussion
In-Reply-To: <000801d58441$8fd836b0$af88a410$@flash.net>
References: <001b01d5842b$343a3df0$9caeb9d0$@frontier.com>
 <000801d58441$8fd836b0$af88a410$@flash.net>
Message-ID: <56D9E2C4-696F-4D89-B68F-FFFCDB6BF1F7@comcast.net>

The Main problem is California ? they won?t let you mix any paint with any thinner that is NOT Water!!
and I really need to mix a better paint ? anyone know where I might find a shop that will mix         

DAR Delstar PPG 72489 T

Thanks?

Bill Pugh
1970 TR6   aka (Rosey)

> On Oct 16, 2019, at 9:48 AM, wbeech <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:
> 
> Gee, all this time I thought my ?58 TR3A was Old English White.  If I understand the chart and this discussion correctly I suppose it is Pearl White, with Spa White being the brighter/whiter choice.  
> Bill
>  
> From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Triumph
> Sent: Wednesday, October 16, 2019 9:09 AM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] Paint color discussion
>  
> I found the paint color discussion interesting in that I painted my 59 TR3A Cotswold Blue in 2001. My local auto paint store had a 59 Triumph color code sheet in one of their books and they scanned it to mix up my paint. I saw a picture of a Jag XK150 on a magazine cover a while back and it said it was Cotswold Blue and it looked very close to my color. I attached 3 other XK150 pictures and they all show colors close to mine. I just Googled ?cotswold blue xk150? to find these. Actually, when I type ?cotswold blue tr3a? into Google, the first picture I see is my TR3A with the white top on it. While I think the blue in the car ad Randall posted is attractive, I am not sure where they are getting Cotswold Blue from that.
>  
> Bob Maassel
> 59 TR3A

Life is too short
to drive Boring Cars




From spitlist at cox.net  Thu Oct 17 12:04:27 2019
From: spitlist at cox.net (JOE CURRY)
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2019 14:04:27 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Paint color discussion
In-Reply-To: <56D9E2C4-696F-4D89-B68F-FFFCDB6BF1F7@comcast.net>
References: <001b01d5842b$343a3df0$9caeb9d0$@frontier.com>
 <000801d58441$8fd836b0$af88a410$@flash.net>
 <56D9E2C4-696F-4D89-B68F-FFFCDB6BF1F7@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <303520828.117555.1571335467739@myemail.cox.net>

Bring it to Arizona. We are still able to do olede type paints (that are not water).

Joe

> On October 17, 2019 at 12:57 PM William Pugh <anabil007 at comcast.net mailto:anabil007 at comcast.net > wrote:
> 
> 
>     The Main problem is California ? they won?t let you mix any paint with any thinner that is NOT Water!!
>     and I really need to mix a better paint ? anyone know where I might find a shop that will mix
> 
>     DAR Delstar PPG 72489 T
> 
>     Thanks?
> 
>     Bill Pugh
>     1970 TR6 aka (Rosey)
> 
>         > > On Oct 16, 2019, at 9:48 AM, wbeech <wbeech at flash.net mailto:wbeech at flash.net > wrote:
> > 
> >         Gee, all this time I thought my ?58 TR3A was Old English White. If I understand the chart and this discussion correctly I suppose it is Pearl White, with Spa White being the brighter/whiter choice.
> >         Bill
> > 
> >         From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net ] On Behalf Of Triumph
> >         Sent: Wednesday, October 16, 2019 9:09 AM
> >         To: triumphs at autox.team.net mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net
> >         Subject: [TR] Paint color discussion
> > 
> >         I found the paint color discussion interesting in that I painted my 59 TR3A Cotswold Blue in 2001. My local auto paint store had a 59 Triumph color code sheet in one of their books and they scanned it to mix up my paint. I saw a picture of a Jag XK150 on a magazine cover a while back and it said it was Cotswold Blue and it looked very close to my color. I attached 3 other XK150 pictures and they all show colors close to mine. I just Googled ?cotswold blue xk150? to find these. Actually, when I type ?cotswold blue tr3a? into Google, the first picture I see is my TR3A with the white top on it. While I think the blue in the car ad Randall posted is attractive, I am not sure where they are getting Cotswold Blue from that.
> > 
> >         Bob Maassel
> >         59 TR3A
> > 
> >     >     Life is too short
>     to drive Boring Cars
> 
> 
> 
>     ** triumphs at autox.team.net mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
> 
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From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Thu Oct 17 13:49:24 2019
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2019 19:49:24 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Paint color discussion
In-Reply-To: <56D9E2C4-696F-4D89-B68F-FFFCDB6BF1F7@comcast.net>
References: <001b01d5842b$343a3df0$9caeb9d0$@frontier.com>
 <000801d58441$8fd836b0$af88a410$@flash.net>
 <56D9E2C4-696F-4D89-B68F-FFFCDB6BF1F7@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1587231340.22686.1571341764812@mail.yahoo.com>

 Billi think you can still buy single stage that is not water based in california. no?i used single stage on my TR
frank
    On Thursday, October 17, 2019, 10:54:19 AM PDT, William Pugh <anabil007 at comcast.net> wrote:  
 
 The Main problem is California ? they won?t let you mix any paint with any thinner that is NOT Water!!
and I really need to mix a better paint ? anyone know where I might find a shop that will mix? ? ? ? 

DAR Delstar PPG 72489 T

Thanks?

Bill Pugh
1970 TR6? aka (Rosey)

> On Oct 16, 2019, at 9:48 AM, wbeech <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:
> 
> Gee, all this time I thought my ?58 TR3A was Old English White.? If I understand the chart and this discussion correctly I suppose it is Pearl White, with Spa White being the brighter/whiter choice.? 
> Bill
>? 
> From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Triumph
> Sent: Wednesday, October 16, 2019 9:09 AM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] Paint color discussion
>? 
> I found the paint color discussion interesting in that I painted my 59 TR3A Cotswold Blue in 2001. My local auto paint store had a 59 Triumph color code sheet in one of their books and they scanned it to mix up my paint. I saw a picture of a Jag XK150 on a magazine cover a while back and it said it was Cotswold Blue and it looked very close to my color. I attached 3 other XK150 pictures and they all show colors close to mine. I just Googled ?cotswold blue xk150? to find these. Actually, when I type ?cotswold blue tr3a? into Google, the first picture I see is my TR3A with the white top on it. While I think the blue in the car ad Randall posted is attractive, I am not sure where they are getting Cotswold Blue from that.
>? 
> Bob Maassel
> 59 TR3A

Life is too short
to drive Boring Cars



** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From triumphstag at gmail.com  Thu Oct 17 16:21:08 2019
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2019 15:21:08 -0700
Subject: [TR] any TR7 folks put on a clyinder head using ARP bolt kit?
Message-ID: <CANLCLaHTgRnJARZq2+c5rEyBfpWfBW8Fi2UiDCJoq_Ti_T7Tnw@mail.gmail.com>

I'm installing a head on a Stag using an ARP cylinder head kit for a
TR7.Someone on the Stag list mentioned if using the provided lube, that the
clamping load should be reduced by about 15% from what the Stags ROM says.
The Stag ROM says to install studs and bolts dry and to clamp everything
down to about 55 lbs / inch Anyone agree with this?

Also, they mentioned since the clamping load is different because the studs
go in at an angle to the head and not perpendicular, The bolts should be
torqued down less than mentioned in the ROM.

Any thoughts

Sujit

-- 
Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California

https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
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From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Oct 17 17:19:54 2019
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2019 16:19:54 -0700
Subject: [TR] any TR7 folks put on a clyinder head using ARP bolt kit?
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaHTgRnJARZq2+c5rEyBfpWfBW8Fi2UiDCJoq_Ti_T7Tnw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaHTgRnJARZq2+c5rEyBfpWfBW8Fi2UiDCJoq_Ti_T7Tnw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <D417DE6A2AD54259946D3AC6766981B5@RYPC>

My approach would be to find out what ARP recommends for the TR7, and copy
that.  While I haven't bought any, I've seen that kit, and it appears to me
that ARP did some engineering (in the form of adding reduced diameter
sections to improve elasticity) to better track the changes in head
thickness (vs stud/bolt length) over temperature.

Although TR7 heads aren't identical, they are close enough that the clamping
problem should be exactly the same.

-- Randall 
56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild
71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On 
> Behalf Of Sujit Roy
> Sent: Thursday, October 17, 2019 3:21 PM
> To: Triumphs
> Subject: [TR] any TR7 folks put on a clyinder head using ARP bolt kit?
> 
> I'm installing a head on a Stag using an ARP cylinder head 
> kit for a TR7.Someone on the Stag list mentioned if using the 
> provided lube, that the clamping load should be reduced by 
> about 15% from what the Stags ROM says. The Stag ROM says to 
> install studs and bolts dry and to clamp everything down to 
> about 55 lbs / inch Anyone agree with this?
> 
> Also, they mentioned since the clamping load is different 
> because the studs go in at an angle to the head and not 
> perpendicular, The bolts should be torqued down less than 
> mentioned in the ROM.
> 
> Any thoughts
> 
> Sujit


From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Oct 17 17:48:07 2019
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2019 16:48:07 -0700
Subject: [TR] [Fot] TR-2/3 Starter Question
In-Reply-To: <845293547.4207049.1571333364064@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <845293547.4207049.1571333364064.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <845293547.4207049.1571333364064@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <6BBE36F4F9E740E49B408DD35FA5AB18@RYPC>

It has been awhile, but I've had those early starters apart many times.

In the attached diagram, you pull away the collar, A, then pry the retaining
ring B out of it's groove.  Then you have to work retaining ring C out of
the pinion barrel D.  With it removed, the pinion & barrel should just slide
off, exposing the Bendix drive inside. 

I've not asked recently, but my FLAPS used to be able to send those old
starters out to be rebuilt.  Quoted turnaround was 1 week, but I never tried
it.  Wouldn't let me talk to the rebuilder directly, though.

Frankly, I got disgusted and installed a gear-drive starter instead.  After
10 years of near-daily usage, it did need new bearings and the brushes were
about half gone, but I still think it's better.  For one thing, it doesn't
have the "bonded rubber" drive that seems to fail quite often trying to
crank a high compression engine.

BFE used to sell a "fail safe" replacement for the rubber drive, but I think
I got the last one many years ago and Ken said he wasn't having any more
made.  The current proprietor of BFE probably doesn't know anything about
them.

-- Randall 
56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild
71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of 
> Jack Wheeler via Fot
> Sent: Thursday, October 17, 2019 10:29 AM
> To: FOT List
> Subject: [Fot] TR-2/3 Starter Question
> 
> Does anyone have any experience with rebuilding the early 
> starters, as used on TR-2's and TR-3's, up to about chassis 
> number 50,000 (the "long" starters)?  i took my starter to a 
> local electrical shop a couple of months ago and he is stuck. 
>  He can't figure out how to remove the pinion (with gear) 
> from the shaft.  Is there a secret to getting the pinion off?
> 
> Or, does anyone know of any place that rebuilds these early 
> starters, who may be able to help me with this question?  Or, 
> I could send the starter to them.
> 
> 
> Thanks for any help you can give me.
> 
> Jack Wheeler
> 
> 
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From wbeech at flash.net  Thu Oct 17 19:23:38 2019
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net)
Date: Thu, 17 Oct 2019 20:23:38 -0500
Subject: [TR] [Fot] TR-2/3 Starter Question
In-Reply-To: <6BBE36F4F9E740E49B408DD35FA5AB18@RYPC>
References: <6BBE36F4F9E740E49B408DD35FA5AB18@RYPC>
Message-ID: <5896D436-B12E-410E-B506-E7095DBB12EB@flash.net>

Randall,
Isn?t the part he needs called a ?sleeve assembly? and in the Moss catalogue 549-580 at $30?   It has been several years but I recall buying this when I rebuilt the starter for TS30766L.   Served me well after that, stock motor rebuild. 
Bill



Cactus Jack drinks coffee black......BWS

> On Oct 17, 2019, at 7:21 PM, Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
> 

?It has been awhile, but I've had those early starters apart many times.

In the attached diagram, you pull away the collar, A, then pry the retaining
ring B out of it's groove.  Then you have to work retaining ring C out of
the pinion barrel D.  With it removed, the pinion & barrel should just slide
off, exposing the Bendix drive inside. 

I've not asked recently, but my FLAPS used to be able to send those old
starters out to be rebuilt.  Quoted turnaround was 1 week, but I never tried
it.  Wouldn't let me talk to the rebuilder directly, though.

Frankly, I got disgusted and installed a gear-drive starter instead.  After
10 years of near-daily usage, it did need new bearings and the brushes were
about half gone, but I still think it's better.  For one thing, it doesn't
have the "bonded rubber" drive that seems to fail quite often trying to
crank a high compression engine.

BFE used to sell a "fail safe" replacement for the rubber drive, but I think
I got the last one many years ago and Ken said he wasn't having any more
made.  The current proprietor of BFE probably doesn't know anything about
them.

-- Randall 
56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild
71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of 
> Jack Wheeler via Fot
> Sent: Thursday, October 17, 2019 10:29 AM
> To: FOT List
> Subject: [Fot] TR-2/3 Starter Question
> 
> Does anyone have any experience with rebuilding the early 
> starters, as used on TR-2's and TR-3's, up to about chassis 
> number 50,000 (the "long" starters)?  i took my starter to a 
> local electrical shop a couple of months ago and he is stuck. 
> He can't figure out how to remove the pinion (with gear) 
> from the shaft.  Is there a secret to getting the pinion off?
> 
> Or, does anyone know of any place that rebuilds these early 
> starters, who may be able to help me with this question?  Or, 
> I could send the starter to them.
> 
> 
> Thanks for any help you can give me.
> 
> Jack Wheeler
> 
> 
<M17 Fig 20 starter drive.jpg>
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From HDRider570 at att.net  Fri Oct 18 13:23:29 2019
From: HDRider570 at att.net (Q)
Date: Fri, 18 Oct 2019 12:23:29 -0700
Subject: [TR] any TR7 folks put on a clyinder head using ARP bolt kit
Message-ID: <0eb873e5-d3b1-64df-d170-c5505c164c9b@att.net>

When I did my Stag I used the recommended TR7 torque which if I recall 
correctly is 85 Footpounds with the supplied lube. Used the supplied 
washers as they are special for the champher under the heads of the bolts.

Edward Hamer

Petaluma CA


From dlhogye at comcast.net  Fri Oct 18 16:11:18 2019
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE)
Date: Fri, 18 Oct 2019 15:11:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3 racing at Sonoma video
Message-ID: <1766513176.118120.1571436678739@connect.xfinity.com>

Hello Triumph gang,
I would like to share a recent video of my TR3 racing at Sonoma.  I qualified 5th of 36 and started the race 4th after a competitor didn't make it to the starting grid.  If you'd be interested, please enjoy.
I ran the Rolex race at Laguna this past August for the fourth year in a row and plan on posting a video of that race soon.  I had my best finish, 12th of 39 racing hard and keeping a '57 Corvette behind me to the finish.  
Dave H.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hjOuAssByf4&t=6s
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From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Fri Oct 18 18:26:28 2019
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Sat, 19 Oct 2019 00:26:28 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR3 racing at Sonoma video
In-Reply-To: <1766513176.118120.1571436678739@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <1766513176.118120.1571436678739@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <283545334.2491731.1571444788168@mail.yahoo.com>

 Davegreat video.i have spectated many times at sonoma and always wanted to take a lap. but so far?its my favorite trace to spectate from.i was willing you all the way on the last lap to take the alfa.was great to see the track in anger from the drivers view.im sure i have seen dave race the TR2 at sonoma many times. he runs rear disk brakes? yes? super nice guy.?thanks for sharing. maybe ill run into you some day.
frank


    On Friday, October 18, 2019, 03:36:35 PM PDT, DAVE HOGYE <dlhogye at comcast.net> wrote:  
 
    Hello Triumph gang,   I would like to share a recent video of my TR3 racing at Sonoma.? I qualified 5th of 36 and started the race 4th after a competitor didn't make it to the starting grid.? If you'd be interested, please enjoy.   I ran the Rolex race at Laguna this past August for the fourth year in a row and plan on posting a video of that race soon.? I had my best finish, 12th of 39 racing hard and keeping a '57 Corvette behind me to the finish.??   Dave H.   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hjOuAssByf4&t=6s  ** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From dlhogye at comcast.net  Sat Oct 19 09:11:08 2019
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE)
Date: Sat, 19 Oct 2019 08:11:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3 racing at Sonoma video
In-Reply-To: <283545334.2491731.1571444788168@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1766513176.118120.1571436678739@connect.xfinity.com>
 <283545334.2491731.1571444788168@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1857239205.121808.1571497868139@connect.xfinity.com>

Hi Frank,
Thanks for watching and writing.  To bad we didn't meet at Sonoma.  That weekend being the Charity Challenge, invites people to make a donation to Speedway Children Charities, and get a ride in a car of their choice.  It would have been a great time to get on track as a passenger.  Minimum donation of $75 get three laps.  Drivers will go as fast as you like.  I didn't sign up this year, wanting to save the car, engine and tires.    
I very much enjoy racing at Sonoma.  It's a great track.  
Dave and his TR2 were an early inspiration to me when I was building my car and now we are good friends.  Yes, his car has disk brakes all around as per the factory LeMan cars.  We always share paddock space and Jim Alder with his XK120 is usually with us too.  Jim has been racing his Jag for 37 years and is well know for being the only guy that "always" drives his car to the track from his home in Reno.  I think he said 145 races now.  Greg Powell with his very fast Morgan and a new Spitfire driver also joined us in the paddock.  It was a really nice group and we had a great time throughout the weekend.  Dave's wife Laura provided excellent gourmet style meals for us all both Saturday and Sunday.  
Looking forward to next season,
Dave H.


> On October 18, 2019 at 5:26 PM Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com> wrote:
> 
>      
>     Dave
>     great video.
>     i have spectated many times at sonoma and always wanted to take a lap. but so far  [Emoji]
>     its my favorite trace to spectate from.
>     i was willing you all the way on the last lap to take the alfa.
>     was great to see the track in anger from the drivers view.
>     im sure i have seen dave race the TR2 at sonoma many times. he runs rear disk brakes? yes? super nice guy.
>      thanks for sharing. maybe ill run into you some day.
> 
>     frank
> 
> 
> 
>     On Friday, October 18, 2019, 03:36:35 PM PDT, DAVE HOGYE <dlhogye at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> 
>     Hello Triumph gang,
>     I would like to share a recent video of my TR3 racing at Sonoma.  I qualified 5th of 36 and started the race 4th after a competitor didn't make it to the starting grid.  If you'd be interested, please enjoy.
>     I ran the Rolex race at Laguna this past August for the fourth year in a row and plan on posting a video of that race soon.  I had my best finish, 12th of 39 racing hard and keeping a '57 Corvette behind me to the finish.  
>     Dave H.
>     https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hjOuAssByf4&t=6s
>     ** triumphs at autox.team.net mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
> 
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> 


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From actionsl at att.net  Sat Oct 19 15:15:06 2019
From: actionsl at att.net (Carl Carlson)
Date: Sat, 19 Oct 2019 14:15:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 12, Issue 237
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3.1571508002.4761.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.3.1571508002.4761.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <4B6A1858-5C28-425C-AC3C-4626BC24663F@att.net>

Hi Dave.  Does your car have a stock steering box?

Carl

> On Oct 19, 2019, at 11:00 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:
> 
> Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to
>    triumphs at autox.team.net
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>    http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>    triumphs-request at autox.team.net
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>    triumphs-owner at autox.team.net
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. any TR7 folks put on a clyinder head using ARP bolt kit (Q)
>   2. TR3 racing at Sonoma video (DAVE HOGYE)
>   3. Re: TR3 racing at Sonoma video (Frank Fisher)
>   4. Re: TR3 racing at Sonoma video (DAVE HOGYE)
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Fri, 18 Oct 2019 12:23:29 -0700
> From: Q <HDRider570 at att.net>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] any TR7 folks put on a clyinder head using ARP bolt kit
> Message-ID: <0eb873e5-d3b1-64df-d170-c5505c164c9b at att.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
> 
> When I did my Stag I used the recommended TR7 torque which if I recall 
> correctly is 85 Footpounds with the supplied lube. Used the supplied 
> washers as they are special for the champher under the heads of the bolts.
> 
> Edward Hamer
> 
> Petaluma CA
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Fri, 18 Oct 2019 15:11:18 -0700 (PDT)
> From: DAVE HOGYE <dlhogye at comcast.net>
> To: TR list <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [TR] TR3 racing at Sonoma video
> Message-ID: <1766513176.118120.1571436678739 at connect.xfinity.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Hello Triumph gang,
> I would like to share a recent video of my TR3 racing at Sonoma.  I qualified 5th of 36 and started the race 4th after a competitor didn't make it to the starting grid.  If you'd be interested, please enjoy.
> I ran the Rolex race at Laguna this past August for the fourth year in a row and plan on posting a video of that race soon.  I had my best finish, 12th of 39 racing hard and keeping a '57 Corvette behind me to the finish.  
> Dave H.
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hjOuAssByf4&t=6s
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 3
> Date: Sat, 19 Oct 2019 00:26:28 +0000 (UTC)
> From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>
> To: TR list <triumphs at autox.team.net>, DAVE HOGYE
>    <dlhogye at comcast.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 racing at Sonoma video
> Message-ID: <283545334.2491731.1571444788168 at mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Davegreat video.i have spectated many times at sonoma and always wanted to take a lap. but so far?its my favorite trace to spectate from.i was willing you all the way on the last lap to take the alfa.was great to see the track in anger from the drivers view.im sure i have seen dave race the TR2 at sonoma many times. he runs rear disk brakes? yes? super nice guy.?thanks for sharing. maybe ill run into you some day.
> frank
> 
> 
>    On Friday, October 18, 2019, 03:36:35 PM PDT, DAVE HOGYE <dlhogye at comcast.net> wrote:  
> 
>    Hello Triumph gang,   I would like to share a recent video of my TR3 racing at Sonoma.? I qualified 5th of 36 and started the race 4th after a competitor didn't make it to the starting grid.? If you'd be interested, please enjoy.   I ran the Rolex race at Laguna this past August for the fourth year in a row and plan on posting a video of that race soon.? I had my best finish, 12th of 39 racing hard and keeping a '57 Corvette behind me to the finish.??   Dave H.   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hjOuAssByf4&t=6s  ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com
> 
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 4
> Date: Sat, 19 Oct 2019 08:11:08 -0700 (PDT)
> From: DAVE HOGYE <dlhogye at comcast.net>
> To: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>, TR list
>    <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 racing at Sonoma video
> Message-ID: <1857239205.121808.1571497868139 at connect.xfinity.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Hi Frank,
> Thanks for watching and writing.  To bad we didn't meet at Sonoma.  That weekend being the Charity Challenge, invites people to make a donation to Speedway Children Charities, and get a ride in a car of their choice.  It would have been a great time to get on track as a passenger.  Minimum donation of $75 get three laps.  Drivers will go as fast as you like.  I didn't sign up this year, wanting to save the car, engine and tires.    
> I very much enjoy racing at Sonoma.  It's a great track.  
> Dave and his TR2 were an early inspiration to me when I was building my car and now we are good friends.  Yes, his car has disk brakes all around as per the factory LeMan cars.  We always share paddock space and Jim Alder with his XK120 is usually with us too.  Jim has been racing his Jag for 37 years and is well know for being the only guy that "always" drives his car to the track from his home in Reno.  I think he said 145 races now.  Greg Powell with his very fast Morgan and a new Spitfire driver also joined us in the paddock.  It was a really nice group and we had a great time throughout the weekend.  Dave's wife Laura provided excellent gourmet style meals for us all both Saturday and Sunday.  
> Looking forward to next season,
> Dave H.
> 
> 
>> On October 18, 2019 at 5:26 PM Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>>    Dave
>>    great video.
>>    i have spectated many times at sonoma and always wanted to take a lap. but so far  [Emoji]
>>    its my favorite trace to spectate from.
>>    i was willing you all the way on the last lap to take the alfa.
>>    was great to see the track in anger from the drivers view.
>>    im sure i have seen dave race the TR2 at sonoma many times. he runs rear disk brakes? yes? super nice guy.
>>     thanks for sharing. maybe ill run into you some day.
>> 
>>    frank
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>    On Friday, October 18, 2019, 03:36:35 PM PDT, DAVE HOGYE <dlhogye at comcast.net> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>>    Hello Triumph gang,
>>    I would like to share a recent video of my TR3 racing at Sonoma.  I qualified 5th of 36 and started the race 4th after a competitor didn't make it to the starting grid.  If you'd be interested, please enjoy.
>>    I ran the Rolex race at Laguna this past August for the fourth year in a row and plan on posting a video of that race soon.  I had my best finish, 12th of 39 racing hard and keeping a '57 Corvette behind me to the finish.  
>>    Dave H.
>>    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hjOuAssByf4&t=6s
>>    ** triumphs at autox.team.net mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>>    Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>    Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
>>    Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com
>> 
> 
> 
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Subject: Digest Footer
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Triumphs mailing list
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 12, Issue 237
> *****************************************


From dlhogye at comcast.net  Sat Oct 19 17:55:47 2019
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE)
Date: Sat, 19 Oct 2019 16:55:47 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 12, Issue 237
In-Reply-To: <4B6A1858-5C28-425C-AC3C-4626BC24663F@att.net>
References: <mailman.3.1571508002.4761.triumphs@autox.team.net>
 <4B6A1858-5C28-425C-AC3C-4626BC24663F@att.net>
Message-ID: <2052081380.126165.1571529347693@connect.xfinity.com>

Yes,  my TR3 has a stock steering box that I rebuilt.
Dave H.
> On October 19, 2019 at 2:15 PM Carl Carlson <actionsl at att.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi Dave.  Does your car have a stock steering box?
> 
> Carl
> 
> > On Oct 19, 2019, at 11:00 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:
> > 
> > Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to
> >    triumphs at autox.team.net
> > 
> > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> >    http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> >    triumphs-request at autox.team.net
> > 
> > You can reach the person managing the list at
> >    triumphs-owner at autox.team.net
> > 
> > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> > than "Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..."
> > 
> > 
> > Today's Topics:
> > 
> >   1. any TR7 folks put on a clyinder head using ARP bolt kit (Q)
> >   2. TR3 racing at Sonoma video (DAVE HOGYE)
> >   3. Re: TR3 racing at Sonoma video (Frank Fisher)
> >   4. Re: TR3 racing at Sonoma video (DAVE HOGYE)
> > 
> > 
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> > 
> > Message: 1
> > Date: Fri, 18 Oct 2019 12:23:29 -0700
> > From: Q <HDRider570 at att.net>
> > To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> > Subject: [TR] any TR7 folks put on a clyinder head using ARP bolt kit
> > Message-ID: <0eb873e5-d3b1-64df-d170-c5505c164c9b at att.net>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
> > 
> > When I did my Stag I used the recommended TR7 torque which if I recall 
> > correctly is 85 Footpounds with the supplied lube. Used the supplied 
> > washers as they are special for the champher under the heads of the bolts.
> > 
> > Edward Hamer
> > 
> > Petaluma CA
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > ------------------------------
> > 
> > Message: 2
> > Date: Fri, 18 Oct 2019 15:11:18 -0700 (PDT)
> > From: DAVE HOGYE <dlhogye at comcast.net>
> > To: TR list <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> > Subject: [TR] TR3 racing at Sonoma video
> > Message-ID: <1766513176.118120.1571436678739 at connect.xfinity.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> > 
> > Hello Triumph gang,
> > I would like to share a recent video of my TR3 racing at Sonoma.  I qualified 5th of 36 and started the race 4th after a competitor didn't make it to the starting grid.  If you'd be interested, please enjoy.
> > I ran the Rolex race at Laguna this past August for the fourth year in a row and plan on posting a video of that race soon.  I had my best finish, 12th of 39 racing hard and keeping a '57 Corvette behind me to the finish.  
> > Dave H.
> > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hjOuAssByf4&t=6s
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/triumphs/attachments/20191018/adaf028d/attachment-0001.htm>
> > 
> > ------------------------------
> > 
> > Message: 3
> > Date: Sat, 19 Oct 2019 00:26:28 +0000 (UTC)
> > From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>
> > To: TR list <triumphs at autox.team.net>, DAVE HOGYE
> >    <dlhogye at comcast.net>
> > Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 racing at Sonoma video
> > Message-ID: <283545334.2491731.1571444788168 at mail.yahoo.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> > 
> > Davegreat video.i have spectated many times at sonoma and always wanted to take a lap. but so far?its my favorite trace to spectate from.i was willing you all the way on the last lap to take the alfa.was great to see the track in anger from the drivers view.im sure i have seen dave race the TR2 at sonoma many times. he runs rear disk brakes? yes? super nice guy.?thanks for sharing. maybe ill run into you some day.
> > frank
> > 
> > 
> >    On Friday, October 18, 2019, 03:36:35 PM PDT, DAVE HOGYE <dlhogye at comcast.net> wrote:  
> > 
> >    Hello Triumph gang,   I would like to share a recent video of my TR3 racing at Sonoma.? I qualified 5th of 36 and started the race 4th after a competitor didn't make it to the starting grid.? If you'd be interested, please enjoy.   I ran the Rolex race at Laguna this past August for the fourth year in a row and plan on posting a video of that race soon.? I had my best finish, 12th of 39 racing hard and keeping a '57 Corvette behind me to the finish.??   Dave H.   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hjOuAssByf4&t=6s  ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> > 
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> > 
> > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com
> > 
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/triumphs/attachments/20191019/8d1ea7db/attachment-0001.htm>
> > 
> > ------------------------------
> > 
> > Message: 4
> > Date: Sat, 19 Oct 2019 08:11:08 -0700 (PDT)
> > From: DAVE HOGYE <dlhogye at comcast.net>
> > To: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>, TR list
> >    <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> > Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 racing at Sonoma video
> > Message-ID: <1857239205.121808.1571497868139 at connect.xfinity.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> > 
> > Hi Frank,
> > Thanks for watching and writing.  To bad we didn't meet at Sonoma.  That weekend being the Charity Challenge, invites people to make a donation to Speedway Children Charities, and get a ride in a car of their choice.  It would have been a great time to get on track as a passenger.  Minimum donation of $75 get three laps.  Drivers will go as fast as you like.  I didn't sign up this year, wanting to save the car, engine and tires.    
> > I very much enjoy racing at Sonoma.  It's a great track.  
> > Dave and his TR2 were an early inspiration to me when I was building my car and now we are good friends.  Yes, his car has disk brakes all around as per the factory LeMan cars.  We always share paddock space and Jim Alder with his XK120 is usually with us too.  Jim has been racing his Jag for 37 years and is well know for being the only guy that "always" drives his car to the track from his home in Reno.  I think he said 145 races now.  Greg Powell with his very fast Morgan and a new Spitfire driver also joined us in the paddock.  It was a really nice group and we had a great time throughout the weekend.  Dave's wife Laura provided excellent gourmet style meals for us all both Saturday and Sunday.  
> > Looking forward to next season,
> > Dave H.
> > 
> > 
> >> On October 18, 2019 at 5:26 PM Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com> wrote:
> >> 
> >> 
> >>    Dave
> >>    great video.
> >>    i have spectated many times at sonoma and always wanted to take a lap. but so far  [Emoji]
> >>    its my favorite trace to spectate from.
> >>    i was willing you all the way on the last lap to take the alfa.
> >>    was great to see the track in anger from the drivers view.
> >>    im sure i have seen dave race the TR2 at sonoma many times. he runs rear disk brakes? yes? super nice guy.
> >>     thanks for sharing. maybe ill run into you some day.
> >> 
> >>    frank
> >> 
> >> 
> >> 
> >>    On Friday, October 18, 2019, 03:36:35 PM PDT, DAVE HOGYE <dlhogye at comcast.net> wrote:
> >> 
> >> 
> >>    Hello Triumph gang,
> >>    I would like to share a recent video of my TR3 racing at Sonoma.  I qualified 5th of 36 and started the race 4th after a competitor didn't make it to the starting grid.  If you'd be interested, please enjoy.
> >>    I ran the Rolex race at Laguna this past August for the fourth year in a row and plan on posting a video of that race soon.  I had my best finish, 12th of 39 racing hard and keeping a '57 Corvette behind me to the finish.  
> >>    Dave H.
> >>    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hjOuAssByf4&t=6s
> >>    ** triumphs at autox.team.net mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net **
> >> 
> >>    Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >>    Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
> >> 
> >>    Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com
> >> 
> > 
> > 
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/triumphs/attachments/20191019/5351957b/attachment-0001.htm>
> > 
> > ------------------------------
> > 
> > Subject: Digest Footer
> > 
> > _______________________________________________
> > 
> > Triumphs mailing list
> > Triumphs at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> > 
> > 
> > ------------------------------
> > 
> > End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 12, Issue 237
> > *****************************************
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye at comcast.net

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Sun Oct 20 12:01:31 2019
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh)
Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2019 11:01:31 -0700
Subject: [TR] Temp Gauge failing?
Message-ID: <C9466917-690A-4C50-ACB0-AC4F632D7B1D@comcast.net>

Just put in new thermostat ? hard job ? but all went well, temp gauge worked perfectly ? until yesterday ? went for short drive (20 miles) temp seemed too low around 120 F, had nice lunch, Then on the way home temp gauge never moved off the mark.

This is a Smith double gauge, oil pressure  & temp.   1957 TR3  I checked the capillary tube, dry as a bone.

What would the next check that I should take?

Thanks to all
Bill Pugh
po box 83
Wallace, CA 95254
209-210-8019	mobile




Life is too short
to drive Boring Cars




From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Sun Oct 20 12:23:40 2019
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (CFM-TR)
Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2019 14:23:40 -0400
Subject: [TR] Temp Gauge failing?
In-Reply-To: <C9466917-690A-4C50-ACB0-AC4F632D7B1D@comcast.net>
References: <C9466917-690A-4C50-ACB0-AC4F632D7B1D@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <e0f2e1ef-7ab1-44a6-806e-8a7f89d2927e@verizon.net>

do you have a thermal sensor gauge? something to determine temp of stat housing?? or a gauge you can put in coolant after you open rad cap (carefully)?? to see if temp gauge reading correct.

assuming not.? I'm stumped.

?Get BlueMail for Android ?

On Oct 20, 2019, 2:01 PM, at 2:01 PM, William Pugh <anabil007 at comcast.net> wrote:
>Just put in new thermostat ? hard job ? but all went well, temp gauge
>worked perfectly ? until yesterday ? went for short drive (20 miles)
>temp seemed too low around 120 F, had nice lunch, Then on the way home
>temp gauge never moved off the mark.
>
>This is a Smith double gauge, oil pressure  & temp.   1957 TR3  I
>checked the capillary tube, dry as a bone.
>
>What would the next check that I should take?
>
>Thanks to all
>Bill Pugh
>po box 83
>Wallace, CA 95254
>209-210-8019	mobile
>
>
>
>
>Life is too short
>to drive Boring Cars
>
>
>
>** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs 
>http://www.team.net/archive
>
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net
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From auprichard at uprichard.net  Sun Oct 20 14:01:12 2019
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2019 16:01:12 -0400
Subject: [TR] Temp Gauge failing?
In-Reply-To: <C9466917-690A-4C50-ACB0-AC4F632D7B1D@comcast.net>
References: <C9466917-690A-4C50-ACB0-AC4F632D7B1D@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <006201d58781$205cc7e0$611657a0$@uprichard.net>

I think the thermostat is a red herring - I cannot see a situation where you go for a drive and the engine temp doesn't go up.  But (as already suggested), go buy one of those sensors and see what the thermostat housing temp is when the gauge is reading zero.  Then replace the gauge :-)

Andrew Uprichard
Jackson, Mi

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Pugh
Sent: Sunday, October 20, 2019 2:02 PM
To: TR3/6
Subject: [TR] Temp Gauge failing?

Just put in new thermostat ? hard job ? but all went well, temp gauge worked perfectly ? until yesterday ? went for short drive (20 miles) temp seemed too low around 120 F, had nice lunch, Then on the way home temp gauge never moved off the mark.

This is a Smith double gauge, oil pressure  & temp.   1957 TR3  I checked the capillary tube, dry as a bone.

What would the next check that I should take?

Thanks to all
Bill Pugh
po box 83
Wallace, CA 95254
209-210-8019	mobile




Life is too short
to drive Boring Cars



** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net


From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Oct 20 16:33:39 2019
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2019 15:33:39 -0700
Subject: [TR] Temp Gauge failing?
In-Reply-To: <006201d58781$205cc7e0$611657a0$@uprichard.net>
References: <C9466917-690A-4C50-ACB0-AC4F632D7B1D@comcast.net>
 <006201d58781$205cc7e0$611657a0$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <422ADC62B34B4D5BB47FF8037242D49D@RYPC>

I'm with Andrew.  My guess is that the act of changing the thermostat caused
a tiny crack in the capillary tube, which has been slowly letting ether gas
escape.  Yesterday there was enough ether left inside to push the gauge to
120F (even though the coolant was probably much hotter), today there isn't
enough to move it at all.

Getting your gauge rebuilt may be marginally cheaper than a new one, but
still not cheap.

-- Randall 
56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild
71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild 

>   But (as already suggested), go buy one of 
> those sensors and see what the thermostat housing temp is 
> when the gauge is reading zero.  Then replace the gauge :-)
> 


From anabil007 at comcast.net  Sun Oct 20 19:29:30 2019
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh)
Date: Sun, 20 Oct 2019 18:29:30 -0700
Subject: [TR] Temp Gauge failing?
In-Reply-To: <422ADC62B34B4D5BB47FF8037242D49D@RYPC>
References: <C9466917-690A-4C50-ACB0-AC4F632D7B1D@comcast.net>
 <006201d58781$205cc7e0$611657a0$@uprichard.net>
 <422ADC62B34B4D5BB47FF8037242D49D@RYPC>
Message-ID: <670CEE99-87DF-4E79-A5E4-58610B521638@comcast.net>

Bingo!!  Exactly the reason ?. new Smiths gauge now on the way ?



> On Oct 20, 2019, at 3:33 PM, Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
> 
> I'm with Andrew.  My guess is that the act of changing the thermostat caused
> a tiny crack in the capillary tube, which has been slowly letting ether gas
> escape.  Yesterday there was enough ether left inside to push the gauge to
> 120F (even though the coolant was probably much hotter), today there isn't
> enough to move it at all.
> 
> Getting your gauge rebuilt may be marginally cheaper than a new one, but
> still not cheap.
> 
> -- Randall 
> 56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
> 71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild
> 71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild 
> 
>>  But (as already suggested), go buy one of 
>> those sensors and see what the thermostat housing temp is 
>> when the gauge is reading zero.  Then replace the gauge :-)
>> 
> 

Life is too short
to drive Boring Cars




From wbeech at flash.net  Mon Oct 21 07:28:38 2019
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net)
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2019 08:28:38 -0500
Subject: [TR] OEM Smiths Heater Rheostat On eBay
Message-ID: <2BE2AF54-4347-4EAF-ABE4-92944DEA9878@flash.net>

This popped up today, looks to be in good shape.  $140 at Moss.  

I don?t need one, but you might. 

NFI,
Bill

Look at this on eBay
OEM Smiths Heater Rheostat MG Triumph Austin Healey Jaguar XK120 Morgan Morris



Cactus Jack drinks coffee black......BWS
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From triumphstag at gmail.com  Mon Oct 21 12:42:02 2019
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2019 11:42:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] What is the correct way to measure fuel pressure
Message-ID: <CANLCLaH4A6nHXGsYcfBV202=ck0vg76thtXfhait6JLGuG5hzA@mail.gmail.com>

I borrowed a Harbor Freight fuel pressure gauge from a fellow Triumph
owner. I disconnected the supply to the ZS carbs and connected the pressure
gauge directly to the feed.
The gauge read less than 1 PSIG. I have a Stag and it is using an SU
electric fuel pump.The stag pump should be around 3 psi.
Am I measuring the pump correctly? Should I Tee in the gauge inline with
the carbs instead?

Sujit



-- 
Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California

https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
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From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com  Mon Oct 21 12:45:35 2019
From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad)
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2019 18:45:35 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] What is the correct way to measure fuel pressure
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaH4A6nHXGsYcfBV202=ck0vg76thtXfhait6JLGuG5hzA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaH4A6nHXGsYcfBV202=ck0vg76thtXfhait6JLGuG5hzA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2087019927.6098048.1571683535164@mail.yahoo.com>

 Was the pump running?
    On Monday, October 21, 2019, 01:42:47 PM CDT, Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com> wrote:  
 
 I borrowed a Harbor Freight fuel?pressure gauge from a fellow Triumph owner. I disconnected the supply to the ZS carbs and connected the pressure gauge directly to the feed.The gauge read less than 1 PSIG. I have a Stag and it is using an SU electric fuel?pump.The stag pump should?be around 3 psi.?Am I measuring the pump correctly? Should I Tee in the gauge inline with the carbs instead?
Sujit



-- 
Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California
https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com
  
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From triumphstag at gmail.com  Mon Oct 21 12:46:51 2019
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2019 11:46:51 -0700
Subject: [TR] What is the correct way to measure fuel pressure
In-Reply-To: <2087019927.6098048.1571683535164@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <CANLCLaH4A6nHXGsYcfBV202=ck0vg76thtXfhait6JLGuG5hzA@mail.gmail.com>
 <2087019927.6098048.1571683535164@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CANLCLaE5G-f+vZMA2XqCbBf9REX_KNQhP8Y23+AhiMJtsbBkpA@mail.gmail.com>

Yes, it was.

On Mon, Oct 21, 2019 at 11:45 AM Chad <triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com> wrote:

> Was the pump running?
>
> On Monday, October 21, 2019, 01:42:47 PM CDT, Sujit Roy <
> triumphstag at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> I borrowed a Harbor Freight fuel pressure gauge from a fellow Triumph
> owner. I disconnected the supply to the ZS carbs and connected the pressure
> gauge directly to the feed.
> The gauge read less than 1 PSIG. I have a Stag and it is using an SU
> electric fuel pump.The stag pump should be around 3 psi.
> Am I measuring the pump correctly? Should I Tee in the gauge inline with
> the carbs instead?
>
> Sujit
>
>
>
> --
> Sujit Roy
> Cupertino, California
>
> https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com
>


-- 
Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California

https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
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From triumphstag at gmail.com  Mon Oct 21 12:48:10 2019
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2019 11:48:10 -0700
Subject: [TR] What is the correct way to measure fuel pressure
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaE5G-f+vZMA2XqCbBf9REX_KNQhP8Y23+AhiMJtsbBkpA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaH4A6nHXGsYcfBV202=ck0vg76thtXfhait6JLGuG5hzA@mail.gmail.com>
 <2087019927.6098048.1571683535164@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CANLCLaE5G-f+vZMA2XqCbBf9REX_KNQhP8Y23+AhiMJtsbBkpA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANLCLaH30ND9gS_Nf-x22MLUc9a=yPH+AOS_cz4FKJW4ZFN3Cg@mail.gmail.com>

I could hear the pump ticking then it stopped. That's when I read the gauge.
Sujit

On Mon, Oct 21, 2019 at 11:46 AM Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com> wrote:

> Yes, it was.
>
> On Mon, Oct 21, 2019 at 11:45 AM Chad <triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> Was the pump running?
>>
>> On Monday, October 21, 2019, 01:42:47 PM CDT, Sujit Roy <
>> triumphstag at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> I borrowed a Harbor Freight fuel pressure gauge from a fellow Triumph
>> owner. I disconnected the supply to the ZS carbs and connected the pressure
>> gauge directly to the feed.
>> The gauge read less than 1 PSIG. I have a Stag and it is using an SU
>> electric fuel pump.The stag pump should be around 3 psi.
>> Am I measuring the pump correctly? Should I Tee in the gauge inline with
>> the carbs instead?
>>
>> Sujit
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Sujit Roy
>> Cupertino, California
>>
>> https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
>>
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com
>>
>
>
> --
> Sujit Roy
> Cupertino, California
>
> https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
>
>

-- 
Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California

https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
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From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Oct 21 15:12:04 2019
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2019 14:12:04 -0700
Subject: [TR] What is the correct way to measure fuel pressure
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaH4A6nHXGsYcfBV202=ck0vg76thtXfhait6JLGuG5hzA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaH4A6nHXGsYcfBV202=ck0vg76thtXfhait6JLGuG5hzA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2E75E051C17D4893B10A381E3652D5BE@RYPC>

Don't forget to account for the difference in height between the pump and
carbs.  The spec in my book is 2.7 psi measured at the pump; and if I've
done my math right, each 3.75" rise will reduce that by 0.1 psi.  So
assuming the carbs are about 2' above the fuel pump, you should see closer
to 2 psi at the carb inlets.

But I don't trust measuring tools from HF, especially used ones.  Check it
with another gauge; or if you don't have one, build a simple manometer.  A
6' length of pipe or tubing could make a simple "go/no-go" gauge; hold it
vertically and if the pump can push fuel out the top, you've got enough fuel
pressure.  Or for temporary use, some cheap vinyl tubing from Home Depot
tied to a piece of wood will let you read the height.  Vinyl isn't rated for
fuel of course, but should do for a quick test.  (Don't use it for anything
else afterwards, though.)  37.4" should equal 1 psi of gasoline (using
numbers I got from Google).

Not at all relevant, but the book also calls the pump "high pressure", which
I find amusing.

-- Randall 
56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild
71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild 

> I borrowed a Harbor Freight fuel pressure gauge from a fellow 
> Triumph owner. I disconnected the supply to the ZS carbs and 
> connected the pressure gauge directly to the feed.
> The gauge read less than 1 PSIG. I have a Stag and it is 
> using an SU electric fuel pump.The stag pump should be around 3 psi. 
> Am I measuring the pump correctly? Should I Tee in the gauge 
> inline with the carbs instead?


From jmitch at snet.net  Mon Oct 21 17:01:19 2019
From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell)
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2019 19:01:19 -0400
Subject: [TR] Mark I Federal charcoal canisters
Message-ID: <d13a9748-b9be-2d64-83f7-ae96b85e9e86@snet.net>

Can anyone send me a picture of a Mark I federal stag with the 2 
charcoal canisters.?? My car is a 72 and supposedly should have had the 2 
canisters, but I only can find an attachment point for one.


From mdporter at dfn.com  Mon Oct 21 21:22:40 2019
From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter)
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2019 21:22:40 -0600
Subject: [TR] What is the correct way to measure fuel pressure
In-Reply-To: <2E75E051C17D4893B10A381E3652D5BE@RYPC>
References: <CANLCLaH4A6nHXGsYcfBV202=ck0vg76thtXfhait6JLGuG5hzA@mail.gmail.com>
 <2E75E051C17D4893B10A381E3652D5BE@RYPC>
Message-ID: <4552b246-f8b1-3ea2-18db-ae9f06b4c113@dfn.com>

On 10/21/2019 3:12 PM, Randall wrote:
> Don't forget to account for the difference in height between the pump and
> carbs.  The spec in my book is 2.7 psi measured at the pump; and if I've
> done my math right, each 3.75" rise will reduce that by 0.1 psi.  So
> assuming the carbs are about 2' above the fuel pump, you should see closer
> to 2 psi at the carb inlets.

Umm, this might confuse a couple of principles.? Yes, lifting a column 
of liquid by atmospheric pressure limits the column to 34 feet (of 
water, or the equivalent), and the figures above reflect that for the 
lower density of gasoline.? But, the fuel system is not pumping against 
atmosphere.? It's a closed system (at least when the float valve is 
closed), and with the gauge directly connected to the fuel line, it's 
definitely a closed system from pump outlet to gauge.? And, by 
definition, the gauge reads PSIG, i.e., pressure above atmospheric, 
regardless of ambient air pressure.

In a closed system, pressure equalizes at all points in the system, so, 
2.7 psi at the pump would be 2.7 psi at the gauge.

That said, taking the measurement might be time-dependent due to the 
construction of the pump.? It may build to the correct pressure and then 
quickly leak down past the pump inlet check valve.? Dunno about the 
construction of this pump.? But, leaving the ignition in the "on" 
position while taking the reading and keeping it on to determine if the 
pump is building to rated pressure, then shutting off and leaking down 
would be advisable. If peak pressure never gets above 1 psig, then the 
pump's defective and needs replacement or rebuilding.

>
> But I don't trust measuring tools from HF, especially used ones.  Check it
> with another gauge; or if you don't have one, build a simple manometer.  A
> 6' length of pipe or tubing could make a simple "go/no-go" gauge; hold it
> vertically and if the pump can push fuel out the top, you've got enough fuel
> pressure.  Or for temporary use, some cheap vinyl tubing from Home Depot
> tied to a piece of wood will let you read the height.  Vinyl isn't rated for
> fuel of course, but should do for a quick test.  (Don't use it for anything
> else afterwards, though.)  37.4" should equal 1 psi of gasoline (using
> numbers I got from Google).

I generally agree with the comment about measuring tools from HF, 
especially if one does not know the percent error at full travel. And, 
if one doesn't know the extra energy required to move the needle off 
zero (overcome inertia), it gets more complicated, especially for 
measurements on the low end of the scale.

As for the manometer, yes, a handy way to verify pressure, and in that 
case, because the tube is open to atmosphere, all the above comments 
about height of the column apply.

>
> Not at all relevant, but the book also calls the pump "high pressure", which
> I find amusing.

As compared to gravity feed, perhaps?? :)


Cheers.


-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....



From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Oct 21 22:02:15 2019
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2019 21:02:15 -0700
Subject: [TR] What is the correct way to measure fuel pressure
In-Reply-To: <4552b246-f8b1-3ea2-18db-ae9f06b4c113@dfn.com>
References: <CANLCLaH4A6nHXGsYcfBV202=ck0vg76thtXfhait6JLGuG5hzA@mail.gmail.com>
 <2E75E051C17D4893B10A381E3652D5BE@RYPC>
 <4552b246-f8b1-3ea2-18db-ae9f06b4c113@dfn.com>
Message-ID: <704EE09E9A4E4074BEB301067361C5FA@RYPC>


> Umm, this might confuse a couple of principles.? Yes, lifting 
> a column of liquid by atmospheric pressure limits the column 
> to 34 feet (of water, or the equivalent), and the figures 
> above reflect that for the lower density of gasoline.? But, 
> the fuel system is not pumping against atmosphere.? It's a 
> closed system (at least when the float valve is closed), and 
> with the gauge directly connected to the fuel line, it's 
> definitely a closed system from pump outlet to gauge.? And, 
> by definition, the gauge reads PSIG, i.e., pressure above 
> atmospheric, regardless of ambient air pressure.

True, but regardless of whether there is atmosphere on top, the pressure
goes down as you get higher along a column.  In effect, the weight of the
fuel (or whatever) inside the column is sitting on top of the pressure at
the bottom, so pressure goes down as you go up.

> In a closed system, pressure equalizes at all points in the 
> system, so,
> 2.7 psi at the pump would be 2.7 psi at the gauge.

I disagree.  If, for example, you set up the system I suggested with a 6'
length of pipe, 2 psi at the bottom and no fuel coming out the top; then you
plug the top with a pressure gauge, the pressure does not magically increase
just because there is a plug there.  The gauge still reads 0 psig.

Normally, this effect is too small to notice, because we work with much
higher pressure in hydraulic systems.  3 or 4 psi in a system that works at
hundreds of psi (like a clutch) doesn't make enough difference to notice.

-- Randall


From coefront at shaw.ca  Tue Oct 22 06:43:57 2019
From: coefront at shaw.ca (Michael Coe)
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2019 06:43:57 -0600
Subject: [TR] Fwd: Triumphs Digest, Vol 12, Issue 231
References: <3428E000-4FEB-4DE8-A563-E3E6268C12C2@shaw.ca>
Message-ID: <58D9C65B-3D6F-45F2-B489-956997A152E6@shaw.ca>



Please advertise my TR8 for sale.
Thanks

1982 TR8 Triumph. Always well maintained by a local sports car garage. Mileage?96161 Km (approximately 71,000 miles}. Owned since June 22nd, 2006. Not driven much over the past few years; during which time I was wafling on selling.5 speed transmission. 220 Km speedometer. Two year old battery. EFI. 15 inch Mag wheels. 6 CD player. AM/FM radio/one CD. Alternator. Up graded speakers. Electric radio antenna. Roll bar. Wind deflector. Half tonneau cover. Quaife limited slip differential. Dash cover {when car parked}. Weather cockpit cover. Trunk rack with third brake light. Stainless steel dual exhaust. Interior trunk light. 15? alloy wheels. 185/55/R15 tires. K&N filter. Upgraded larger front disc brakes. Carpet mats. Electric radiator fan. Aluminum radiator. Oil cooler. K & N filter. Triple air horns with dash control for full blast or a tune. Updated driving lights. Headers. Cross engine brace. Battery disconnect switch. Some LED bulbs. Two sets of keys. TR8 key fob. Insured for $20,000.00. But consider reasonable offers. This is a ?neat? TR8.
Mike Coe.  Calgary.  Alberta. 403-281-0363

Cheers
Mike - Calgary. Alberta

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From keithstewart at bell.net  Tue Oct 22 08:44:19 2019
From: keithstewart at bell.net (Keith Stewart)
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2019 10:44:19 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A Body to Frame Attachment
Message-ID: <040f01d588e7$3086a110$9193e330$@bell.net>

The TR4A body is attached to the frame using two rectangular plates. When
disassembled, my notes show these plates:



But I did not note where or what orientation these plates had. I believe the
originals were painted black. I am hoping someone kept better notes than I
did and can help out with the location and orientation. Thanks in advance
for any info and photos.

 

Keith Stewart

keithstewart at bell.net

 

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From momulle at yahoo.com  Tue Oct 22 15:47:42 2019
From: momulle at yahoo.com (michael muller)
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2019 21:47:42 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] What is the correct way to measure fuel pressure
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1571767202.8188.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.5.1571767202.8188.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <1933833499.3630761.1571780862750@mail.yahoo.com>

Bernoulli's equation, for irrotational flow (i.e. incompressible and non-turbulent), states:
P/rho + 1/2*v^2 + g*z = constant
The higher a fluid goes (bigger z), the pressure (P) must decrease.? So physically lifting a pressure probe decreases the pressure at the probe.? In many (most) cases this is not too significant, i.e. at high pressures or for light fluids (P/rho is much larger than g*z).? But for heavy fluids (e.g. gasoline) at low pressures (2-3 psig), it can make a difference.? Obviously Sujit is looking for a big difference in pressure - 0 psi vs. 2.7, in his original post, so holding the probe a few inches higher or lower does not explain his issue - it is more likely the probe is defective.??
But the basic idea of holding a tube 6' above the fuel line is a valid and simple way to test.
------------------------------

Message: 8
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2019 21:02:15 -0700
From: "Randall" <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: "'Michael Porter'" <mdporter at dfn.com>, "'Sujit Roy'"
??? <triumphstag at gmail.com>, "'Triumphs'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] What is the correct way to measure fuel pressure
Message-ID: <704EE09E9A4E4074BEB301067361C5FA at RYPC>
Content-Type: text/plain;??? charset="iso-8859-1"


> Umm, this might confuse a couple of principles.? Yes, lifting 
> a column of liquid by atmospheric pressure limits the column 
> to 34 feet (of water, or the equivalent), and the figures 
> above reflect that for the lower density of gasoline.? But, 
> the fuel system is not pumping against atmosphere.? It's a 
> closed system (at least when the float valve is closed), and 
> with the gauge directly connected to the fuel line, it's 
> definitely a closed system from pump outlet to gauge.? And, 
> by definition, the gauge reads PSIG, i.e., pressure above 
> atmospheric, regardless of ambient air pressure.

True, but regardless of whether there is atmosphere on top, the pressure
goes down as you get higher along a column.? In effect, the weight of the
fuel (or whatever) inside the column is sitting on top of the pressure at
the bottom, so pressure goes down as you go up.

> In a closed system, pressure equalizes at all points in the 
> system, so,
> 2.7 psi at the pump would be 2.7 psi at the gauge.

I disagree.? If, for example, you set up the system I suggested with a 6'
length of pipe, 2 psi at the bottom and no fuel coming out the top; then you
plug the top with a pressure gauge, the pressure does not magically increase
just because there is a plug there.? The gauge still reads 0 psig.

Normally, this effect is too small to notice, because we work with much
higher pressure in hydraulic systems.? 3 or 4 psi in a system that works at
hundreds of psi (like a clutch) doesn't make enough difference to notice.

-- Randall

  
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From cliff_hansen at outlook.com  Tue Oct 22 16:05:38 2019
From: cliff_hansen at outlook.com (Cliff Hansen)
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2019 22:05:38 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR4A Body to Frame Attachment
In-Reply-To: <040f01d588e7$3086a110$9193e330$@bell.net>
References: <040f01d588e7$3086a110$9193e330$@bell.net>
Message-ID: <CY4PR22MB0440F6AB46A43E07537B12E3FA680@CY4PR22MB0440.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>

I don?t recognize that plate, and I?m sure a similar plate is not sold with the body mounting kits. Maybe it was a reinforcement for the trunk floor where the spare tire hold down goes through?

Cliff


Get Outlook for iOS<https://aka.ms/o0ukef>
________________________________
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Keith Stewart <keithstewart at bell.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 22, 2019 8:44:19 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR4A Body to Frame Attachment


The TR4A body is attached to the frame using two rectangular plates. When disassembled, my notes show these plates:

[cid:image003.jpg at 01D588C5.A85930D0]

But I did not note where or what orientation these plates had. I believe the originals were painted black. I am hoping someone kept better notes than I did and can help out with the location and orientation. Thanks in advance for any info and photos.



Keith Stewart

keithstewart at bell.net


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From keithstewart at bell.net  Tue Oct 22 17:12:34 2019
From: keithstewart at bell.net (Keith Stewart)
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2019 19:12:34 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A Body to Frame Attachment
In-Reply-To: <CY4PR22MB0440F6AB46A43E07537B12E3FA680@CY4PR22MB0440.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
References: <040f01d588e7$3086a110$9193e330$@bell.net>
 <CY4PR22MB0440F6AB46A43E07537B12E3FA680@CY4PR22MB0440.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <00ca01d5892e$3085be70$91913b50$@bell.net>

Thanks Cliff but, no, not the trunk reinforcement. I have that and the
plates for it are a different shape. These are not provided with most body
mounting kits sold by TRF and Moss, but Rimmers have it as 619585.



There are two, one each floor panel.

 

Moss UK also list it as 619585 and they include it in their kit. When I
checked the Moss UK site, it looks as if it goes just in front of the
cruciform section. If someone has a photo of it installed, that would be
great.

 

Keith

From: Cliff Hansen <cliff_hansen at outlook.com> 
Sent: October 22, 2019 6:06 PM
To: Keith Stewart <keithstewart at bell.net>; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A Body to Frame Attachment

 

I don't recognize that plate, and I'm sure a similar plate is not sold with
the body mounting kits. Maybe it was a reinforcement for the trunk floor
where the spare tire hold down goes through?

 

Cliff

 

 

Get Outlook for iOS <https://aka.ms/o0ukef> 

  _____  

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
<mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> > on behalf of Keith Stewart
<keithstewart at bell.net <mailto:keithstewart at bell.net> >
Sent: Tuesday, October 22, 2019 8:44:19 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>
<triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> >
Subject: [TR] TR4A Body to Frame Attachment 

 

The TR4A body is attached to the frame using two rectangular plates. When
disassembled, my notes show these plates:



But I did not note where or what orientation these plates had. I believe the
originals were painted black. I am hoping someone kept better notes than I
did and can help out with the location and orientation. Thanks in advance
for any info and photos.

 

Keith Stewart

keithstewart at bell.net <mailto:keithstewart at bell.net> 

 

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From fmags at cox.net  Tue Oct 22 18:13:39 2019
From: fmags at cox.net (Frank Magnusson)
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2019 19:13:39 -0500
Subject: [TR] Mark I Federal charcoal cannisters
Message-ID: <D76A1ED4-A611-4AD7-8729-987C6EF66615@cox.net>



<Message: 6
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2019 19:01:19 -0400
From: John Mitchell <jmitch at snet.net>
To: 'Triumphs' <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Mark I Federal charcoal canisters
Message-ID: <d13a9748-b9be-2d64-83f7-ae96b85e9e86 at snet.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed

Can anyone send me a picture of a Mark I federal stag with the 2 
charcoal canisters.?? My car is a 72 and supposedly should have had the 2 
canisters, but I only can find an attachment point for one.>

Hi John, mine is also a 72 Federal Mk I and has a single charcoal cannister mount on the R shock tower.  I'd be happy to send a pic if it would be of any use.

I thought the difference in cannisters was 2 or 3 port from Mk I to Mk II not 1 or 2 cannisters but IDK.  Mine is a 2 port.

Frank

Sent from my iPad
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From jmitch at snet.net  Tue Oct 22 18:46:07 2019
From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell)
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2019 20:46:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] Mark I Federal charcoal cannisters
In-Reply-To: <D76A1ED4-A611-4AD7-8729-987C6EF66615@cox.net>
References: <D76A1ED4-A611-4AD7-8729-987C6EF66615@cox.net>
Message-ID: <bef762fe-8d04-2f00-05f3-4f0aeaaf73ed@snet.net>

I was just reading in Stag News that from LE11276 until LE 20000 they 
hat 2 identical canisters.?? This is according to Tony Fox. The story 
discusses the differences in Federal Stags.

On 10/22/2019 8:13 PM, Frank Magnusson wrote:
>
>
> <Message: 6
> Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2019 19:01:19 -0400
> From: John Mitchell <jmitch at snet.net <mailto:jmitch at snet.net>>
> To: 'Triumphs' <triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>>
> Subject: [TR] Mark I Federal charcoal canisters
> Message-ID: <d13a9748-b9be-2d64-83f7-ae96b85e9e86 at snet.net 
> <mailto:d13a9748-b9be-2d64-83f7-ae96b85e9e86 at snet.net>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
>
> Can anyone send me a picture of a Mark I federal stag with the 2
> charcoal canisters.?? My car is a 72 and supposedly should have had the 2
> canisters, but I only can find an attachment point for one.>
>
> Hi John, mine is also a 72 Federal Mk I and has a single charcoal 
> cannister mount on the R shock tower. ??I'd be happy to send a pic if 
> it would be of any use.
>
> I thought the difference in cannisters was 2 or 3 port from Mk I to Mk 
> II not 1 or 2 cannisters but IDK. ??Mine is a 2 port.
>
> Frank
>
> Sent from my iPad
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From fmags at cox.net  Tue Oct 22 18:52:54 2019
From: fmags at cox.net (Frank Magnusson)
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2019 19:52:54 -0500
Subject: [TR] Mark I Federal charcoal cannisters
In-Reply-To: <bef762fe-8d04-2f00-05f3-4f0aeaaf73ed@snet.net>
References: <D76A1ED4-A611-4AD7-8729-987C6EF66615@cox.net>
 <bef762fe-8d04-2f00-05f3-4f0aeaaf73ed@snet.net>
Message-ID: <C5DEDC83-2E8A-43D7-8E54-29BAC1982411@cox.net>

Hmm.  Mine is in that range and only has the one.  Where is the second cannister suppossed to be located?

Sent from my iPad

> On Oct 22, 2019, at 7:46 PM, John Mitchell <jmitch at snet.net> wrote:
> 
> I was just reading in Stag News that from LE11276 until LE 20000 they hat 2 identical canisters.?? This is according to Tony Fox.?? The story discusses the differences in Federal Stags.
>> On 10/22/2019 8:13 PM, Frank Magnusson wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> <Message: 6
>> Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2019 19:01:19 -0400
>> From: John Mitchell <jmitch at snet.net>
>> To: 'Triumphs' <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>> Subject: [TR] Mark I Federal charcoal canisters
>> Message-ID: <d13a9748-b9be-2d64-83f7-ae96b85e9e86 at snet.net>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
>> 
>> Can anyone send me a picture of a Mark I federal stag with the 2??
>> charcoal canisters.?? My car is a 72 and supposedly should have had the 2??
>> canisters, but I only can find an attachment point for one.>
>> 
>> Hi John, mine is also a 72 Federal Mk I and has a single charcoal cannister mount on the R shock tower. ??I'd be happy to send a pic if it would be of any use.
>> 
>> I thought the difference in cannisters was 2 or 3 port from Mk I to Mk II not 1 or 2 cannisters but IDK. ??Mine is a 2 port.
>> 
>> Frank
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
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From grglmn at gmail.com  Tue Oct 22 18:52:53 2019
From: grglmn at gmail.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2019 19:52:53 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A Body to Frame Attachment
In-Reply-To: <00ca01d5892e$3085be70$91913b50$@bell.net>
References: <040f01d588e7$3086a110$9193e330$@bell.net>
 <CY4PR22MB0440F6AB46A43E07537B12E3FA680@CY4PR22MB0440.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
 <00ca01d5892e$3085be70$91913b50$@bell.net>
Message-ID: <CAFtw3abaUz_UYmwj6=Fz=TYvNSrKdm8stS6SceSB_Q0e76PeVA@mail.gmail.com>

Seatbelt mount reinforcement?? Just a guess.

Greg Lemon
TR250
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From cliff_hansen at outlook.com  Tue Oct 22 19:04:51 2019
From: cliff_hansen at outlook.com (Cliff Hansen)
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2019 01:04:51 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR4A Body to Frame Attachment
In-Reply-To: <CAFtw3abaUz_UYmwj6=Fz=TYvNSrKdm8stS6SceSB_Q0e76PeVA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <040f01d588e7$3086a110$9193e330$@bell.net>
 <CY4PR22MB0440F6AB46A43E07537B12E3FA680@CY4PR22MB0440.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
 <00ca01d5892e$3085be70$91913b50$@bell.net>,
 <CAFtw3abaUz_UYmwj6=Fz=TYvNSrKdm8stS6SceSB_Q0e76PeVA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CY4PR22MB044085173172984E8B502692FA6B0@CY4PR22MB0440.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>


http://trf.zeni.net/TR6greenbook/40.php?s_wt=1920&s_ht=1080#FA24   It?s a ?reinforcing plate? for a TR6, not too surprised that you found them on a TR4A.

Rimmer?s sells it for that mounting point:

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID200679  part number 68

Cliff


Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

________________________________
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Greg Lemon <grglmn at gmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 22, 2019 6:52:53 PM
To: Keith Stewart <keithstewart at bell.net>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A Body to Frame Attachment

Seatbelt mount reinforcement?? Just a guess.

Greg Lemon
TR250
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From keithstewart at bell.net  Tue Oct 22 19:05:14 2019
From: keithstewart at bell.net (Keith Stewart)
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2019 21:05:14 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A Body to Frame Attachment
In-Reply-To: <CAFtw3abaUz_UYmwj6=Fz=TYvNSrKdm8stS6SceSB_Q0e76PeVA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <040f01d588e7$3086a110$9193e330$@bell.net>
 <CY4PR22MB0440F6AB46A43E07537B12E3FA680@CY4PR22MB0440.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
 <00ca01d5892e$3085be70$91913b50$@bell.net>
 <CAFtw3abaUz_UYmwj6=Fz=TYvNSrKdm8stS6SceSB_Q0e76PeVA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <00fd01d5893d$ed95b740$c8c125c0$@bell.net>

Thanks Greg, but that?s not it. I have the seatbelts and the circular plates that provide the reinforcement.

 

Keith

 

From: Greg Lemon <grglmn at gmail.com> 
Sent: October 22, 2019 8:53 PM
To: Keith Stewart <keithstewart at bell.net>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A Body to Frame Attachment

 

Seatbelt mount reinforcement?? Just a guess.

 

Greg Lemon

TR250

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From jmitch at snet.net  Tue Oct 22 19:16:51 2019
From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell)
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2019 21:16:51 -0400
Subject: [TR] Mark I Federal charcoal cannisters
In-Reply-To: <C5DEDC83-2E8A-43D7-8E54-29BAC1982411@cox.net>
References: <D76A1ED4-A611-4AD7-8729-987C6EF66615@cox.net>
 <bef762fe-8d04-2f00-05f3-4f0aeaaf73ed@snet.net>
 <C5DEDC83-2E8A-43D7-8E54-29BAC1982411@cox.net>
Message-ID: <308ea066-0dec-dbbe-cc8b-ddca2c2a95ca@snet.net>

I don't know.?? My car had no charcoal canister at all.?? I do see a place 
on the right shock tower where the bracket should attach. I picked up 
all the parts from Michael Coffey and he thought there were 2 canisters 
also.

On 10/22/2019 8:52 PM, Frank Magnusson wrote:
> Hmm. ??Mine is in that range and only has the one. ??Where is the second 
> cannister suppossed to be located?
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Oct 22, 2019, at 7:46 PM, John Mitchell <jmitch at snet.net 
> <mailto:jmitch at snet.net>> wrote:
>
>> I was just reading in Stag News that from LE11276 until LE 20000 they 
>> hat 2 identical canisters.?? This is according to Tony Fox.?? The 
>> story discusses the differences in Federal Stags.
>>
>> On 10/22/2019 8:13 PM, Frank Magnusson wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> <Message: 6
>>> Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2019 19:01:19 -0400
>>> From: John Mitchell <jmitch at snet.net <mailto:jmitch at snet.net>>
>>> To: 'Triumphs' <triumphs at autox.team.net 
>>> <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>>
>>> Subject: [TR] Mark I Federal charcoal canisters
>>> Message-ID: <d13a9748-b9be-2d64-83f7-ae96b85e9e86 at snet.net 
>>> <mailto:d13a9748-b9be-2d64-83f7-ae96b85e9e86 at snet.net>>
>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
>>>
>>> Can anyone send me a picture of a Mark I federal stag with the 2??
>>> charcoal canisters.?? My car is a 72 and supposedly should have had 
>>> the 2??
>>> canisters, but I only can find an attachment point for one.>
>>>
>>> Hi John, mine is also a 72 Federal Mk I and has a single charcoal 
>>> cannister mount on the R shock tower. ??I'd be happy to send a pic 
>>> if it would be of any use.
>>>
>>> I thought the difference in cannisters was 2 or 3 port from Mk I to 
>>> Mk II not 1 or 2 cannisters but IDK. ??Mine is a 2 port.
>>>
>>> Frank
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPad
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From keithstewart at bell.net  Tue Oct 22 19:22:10 2019
From: keithstewart at bell.net (Keith Stewart)
Date: Tue, 22 Oct 2019 21:22:10 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A Body to Frame Attachment
In-Reply-To: <CY4PR22MB044085173172984E8B502692FA6B0@CY4PR22MB0440.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
References: <040f01d588e7$3086a110$9193e330$@bell.net>
 <CY4PR22MB0440F6AB46A43E07537B12E3FA680@CY4PR22MB0440.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
 <00ca01d5892e$3085be70$91913b50$@bell.net>,
 <CAFtw3abaUz_UYmwj6=Fz=TYvNSrKdm8stS6SceSB_Q0e76PeVA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY4PR22MB044085173172984E8B502692FA6B0@CY4PR22MB0440.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <012201d58940$4b6c7910$e2456b30$@bell.net>

The Greenbook FA24 shows as square in the drawing and the ones I have are
definitely rectangular as shown in the photos I attached. The Rimmer's part
#68 is the second photo I attached when I pointed out that it is not
included in the mounting kits at TRF or Moss but is included at Rimmers (out
of stock) and Moss UK (available). I can make a guess as far as orientation
but a photo sure would be helpful.

 

Keith

 

From: Cliff Hansen <cliff_hansen at outlook.com> 
Sent: October 22, 2019 9:05 PM
To: Greg Lemon <grglmn at gmail.com>; Keith Stewart <keithstewart at bell.net>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: [TR] TR4A Body to Frame Attachment

 

 

http://trf.zeni.net/TR6greenbook/40.php?s_wt=1920
<http://trf.zeni.net/TR6greenbook/40.php?s_wt=1920&s_ht=1080#FA24>
&s_ht=1080#FA24   It's a "reinforcing plate" for a TR6, not too surprised
that you found them on a TR4A. 

 

Rimmer's sells it for that mounting point: 

 

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID200679  part number 68

 

Cliff

 

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From cliff_hansen at outlook.com  Tue Oct 22 19:29:24 2019
From: cliff_hansen at outlook.com (Cliff Hansen)
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2019 01:29:24 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR4A Body to Frame Attachment
In-Reply-To: <012201d58940$4b6c7910$e2456b30$@bell.net>
References: <040f01d588e7$3086a110$9193e330$@bell.net>
 <CY4PR22MB0440F6AB46A43E07537B12E3FA680@CY4PR22MB0440.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
 <00ca01d5892e$3085be70$91913b50$@bell.net>,
 <CAFtw3abaUz_UYmwj6=Fz=TYvNSrKdm8stS6SceSB_Q0e76PeVA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY4PR22MB044085173172984E8B502692FA6B0@CY4PR22MB0440.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>,
 <012201d58940$4b6c7910$e2456b30$@bell.net>
Message-ID: <CY4PR22MB04404BD4C09D1D7A0311E609FA6B0@CY4PR22MB0440.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>

The part number is associated with that item in the TR6 catalog, that?s all the data I have. Never seen that part of a TR6 personally.


Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

________________________________
From: Keith Stewart <keithstewart at bell.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 22, 2019 7:22:10 PM
To: 'Cliff Hansen' <cliff_hansen at outlook.com>; 'Greg Lemon' <grglmn at gmail.com>
Cc: 'Triumphs' <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: [TR] TR4A Body to Frame Attachment


The Greenbook FA24 shows as square in the drawing and the ones I have are definitely rectangular as shown in the photos I attached. The Rimmer?s part #68 is the second photo I attached when I pointed out that it is not included in the mounting kits at TRF or Moss but is included at Rimmers (out of stock) and Moss UK (available). I can make a guess as far as orientation but a photo sure would be helpful.



Keith



From: Cliff Hansen <cliff_hansen at outlook.com>
Sent: October 22, 2019 9:05 PM
To: Greg Lemon <grglmn at gmail.com>; Keith Stewart <keithstewart at bell.net>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: [TR] TR4A Body to Frame Attachment





http://trf.zeni.net/TR6greenbook/40.php?s_wt=1920&s_ht=1080#FA24   It?s a ?reinforcing plate? for a TR6, not too surprised that you found them on a TR4A.



Rimmer?s sells it for that mounting point:



https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID200679  part number 68



Cliff


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From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Wed Oct 23 06:59:59 2019
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P)
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2019 06:59:59 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR4A Body to Frame Attachment
In-Reply-To: <CY4PR22MB0440F6AB46A43E07537B12E3FA680@CY4PR22MB0440.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
References: <040f01d588e7$3086a110$9193e330$@bell.net>
 <CY4PR22MB0440F6AB46A43E07537B12E3FA680@CY4PR22MB0440.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <cdcaeb06-5464-dd80-2334-81594aaf452f@porterscustom.com>

As I wrote 2 days ago... this is the location...

Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/

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From triumphstag at gmail.com  Wed Oct 23 12:07:27 2019
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2019 11:07:27 -0700
Subject: [TR] Mark I Federal charcoal cannisters
In-Reply-To: <308ea066-0dec-dbbe-cc8b-ddca2c2a95ca@snet.net>
References: <D76A1ED4-A611-4AD7-8729-987C6EF66615@cox.net>
 <bef762fe-8d04-2f00-05f3-4f0aeaaf73ed@snet.net>
 <C5DEDC83-2E8A-43D7-8E54-29BAC1982411@cox.net>
 <308ea066-0dec-dbbe-cc8b-ddca2c2a95ca@snet.net>
Message-ID: <CANLCLaEtf9GP7Y3FE61pz72Go-tmTHA-Km7mD29Aa_SdrHVQaQ@mail.gmail.com>

I do recall seeing in the ROM or parts book or somewhere else an
illustration of a Stag with two canisters. The canisters were placed on
each strut tower.

Sujit

On Tue, Oct 22, 2019 at 6:17 PM John Mitchell <jmitch at snet.net> wrote:

> I don't know.?? My car had no charcoal canister at all.?? I do see a place
> on the right shock tower where the bracket should attach.?? I picked up all
> the parts from Michael Coffey and he thought there were 2 canisters also.
> On 10/22/2019 8:52 PM, Frank Magnusson wrote:
>
> Hmm. ??Mine is in that range and only has the one. ??Where is the second
> cannister suppossed to be located?
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Oct 22, 2019, at 7:46 PM, John Mitchell <jmitch at snet.net> wrote:
>
> I was just reading in Stag News that from LE11276 until LE 20000 they hat
> 2 identical canisters.?? This is according to Tony Fox.?? The story
> discusses the differences in Federal Stags.
> On 10/22/2019 8:13 PM, Frank Magnusson wrote:
>
>
>
> <Message: 6
> Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2019 19:01:19 -0400
> From: John Mitchell <jmitch at snet.net>
> To: 'Triumphs' <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [TR] Mark I Federal charcoal canisters
> Message-ID: <d13a9748-b9be-2d64-83f7-ae96b85e9e86 at snet.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
>
> Can anyone send me a picture of a Mark I federal stag with the 2??
> charcoal canisters.?? My car is a 72 and supposedly should have had the 2??
> canisters, but I only can find an attachment point for one.>
>
> Hi John, mine is also a 72 Federal Mk I and has a single charcoal
> cannister mount on the R shock tower. ??I'd be happy to send a pic if it
> would be of any use.
>
> I thought the difference in cannisters was 2 or 3 port from Mk I to Mk II
> not 1 or 2 cannisters but IDK. ??Mine is a 2 port.
>
> Frank
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumphstag at gmail.com
>


-- 
Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California

https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
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From jmitch at snet.net  Wed Oct 23 16:44:07 2019
From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell)
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2019 18:44:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] Mark I Federal charcoal cannisters
In-Reply-To: <CAOp9YTLSDhm6w0hnKXJ48G3=dOkW3ZUT1EE=jBLBmywFyJ6y7w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <D76A1ED4-A611-4AD7-8729-987C6EF66615@cox.net>
 <bef762fe-8d04-2f00-05f3-4f0aeaaf73ed@snet.net>
 <C5DEDC83-2E8A-43D7-8E54-29BAC1982411@cox.net>
 <308ea066-0dec-dbbe-cc8b-ddca2c2a95ca@snet.net>
 <CANLCLaEtf9GP7Y3FE61pz72Go-tmTHA-Km7mD29Aa_SdrHVQaQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAOp9YTLSDhm6w0hnKXJ48G3=dOkW3ZUT1EE=jBLBmywFyJ6y7w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <fa281039-6f0f-dfc9-8f2e-8e3a1009d05f@snet.net>

Thanks Mike,?? that's exactly what I was looking for.?? I see the thicker 
vacuum lines connect to the Carbs.?? Where does the other line on the 
drivers side connect to?

On 10/23/2019 5:16 PM, Michael Burdick wrote:
> Here are a couple of pictures from LE13145U. I think it is pretty much 
> unmolested and original as I bought it from the second owner about 20 
> years ago and he bought it in 1979. It has the two canister setup and 
> you can see that they are minutes on each wheel well. Hope this helps.
>
> Best regards,
> Mike
>
>
> On Wed, Oct 23, 2019 at 2:07 PM Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com 
> <mailto:triumphstag at gmail.com>> wrote:
>
>     I do recall seeing??in the ROM or parts book or somewhere else an
>     illustration of a Stag with two canisters. The canisters were
>     placed on each strut tower.
>
>     Sujit
>
>     On Tue, Oct 22, 2019 at 6:17 PM John Mitchell <jmitch at snet.net
>     <mailto:jmitch at snet.net>> wrote:
>
>         I don't know.?? My car had no charcoal canister at all.?? I do
>         see a place on the right shock tower where the bracket should
>         attach.?? I picked up all the parts from Michael Coffey and he
>         thought there were 2 canisters also.
>
>         On 10/22/2019 8:52 PM, Frank Magnusson wrote:
>>         Hmm. ??Mine is in that range and only has the one. ??Where is
>>         the second cannister suppossed to be located?
>>
>>         Sent from my iPad
>>
>>         On Oct 22, 2019, at 7:46 PM, John Mitchell <jmitch at snet.net
>>         <mailto:jmitch at snet.net>> wrote:
>>
>>>         I was just reading in Stag News that from LE11276 until LE
>>>         20000 they hat 2 identical canisters.?? This is according to
>>>         Tony Fox.?? The story discusses the differences in Federal
>>>         Stags.
>>>
>>>         On 10/22/2019 8:13 PM, Frank Magnusson wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>         <Message: 6
>>>>         Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2019 19:01:19 -0400
>>>>         From: John Mitchell <jmitch at snet.net <mailto:jmitch at snet.net>>
>>>>         To: 'Triumphs' <triumphs at autox.team.net
>>>>         <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>>
>>>>         Subject: [TR] Mark I Federal charcoal canisters
>>>>         Message-ID: <d13a9748-b9be-2d64-83f7-ae96b85e9e86 at snet.net
>>>>         <mailto:d13a9748-b9be-2d64-83f7-ae96b85e9e86 at snet.net>>
>>>>         Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
>>>>
>>>>         Can anyone send me a picture of a Mark I federal stag with
>>>>         the 2??
>>>>         charcoal canisters.?? My car is a 72 and supposedly should
>>>>         have had the 2??
>>>>         canisters, but I only can find an attachment point for one.>
>>>>
>>>>         Hi John, mine is also a 72 Federal Mk I and has a single
>>>>         charcoal cannister mount on the R shock tower. ??I'd be
>>>>         happy to send a pic if it would be of any use.
>>>>
>>>>         I thought the difference in cannisters was 2 or 3 port from
>>>>         Mk I to Mk II not 1 or 2 cannisters but IDK. ??Mine is a 2
>>>>         port.
>>>>
>>>>         Frank
>>>>
>>>>         Sent from my iPad
>         ** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **
>
>         Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>         Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
>         http://www.team.net/archive
>
>         Unsubscribe/Manage:
>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumphstag at gmail.com
>
>
>
>
>     -- 
>     Sujit Roy
>     Cupertino, California
>
>     https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
>
>     ** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **
>
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
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>
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From jmitch at snet.net  Wed Oct 23 16:58:48 2019
From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell)
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2019 18:58:48 -0400
Subject: [TR] Mark I Federal charcoal cannisters
In-Reply-To: <CAOp9YTLSDhm6w0hnKXJ48G3=dOkW3ZUT1EE=jBLBmywFyJ6y7w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <D76A1ED4-A611-4AD7-8729-987C6EF66615@cox.net>
 <bef762fe-8d04-2f00-05f3-4f0aeaaf73ed@snet.net>
 <C5DEDC83-2E8A-43D7-8E54-29BAC1982411@cox.net>
 <308ea066-0dec-dbbe-cc8b-ddca2c2a95ca@snet.net>
 <CANLCLaEtf9GP7Y3FE61pz72Go-tmTHA-Km7mD29Aa_SdrHVQaQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAOp9YTLSDhm6w0hnKXJ48G3=dOkW3ZUT1EE=jBLBmywFyJ6y7w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4f3ae1c2-7349-de55-d654-7cc88160b2bb@snet.net>

I just went and checked my car and found the holes for the bracket on 
the driver's side shock tower.?? It's so much easier when you know where 
to look.?? Thanks again.

On 10/23/2019 5:16 PM, Michael Burdick wrote:
> Here are a couple of pictures from LE13145U. I think it is pretty much 
> unmolested and original as I bought it from the second owner about 20 
> years ago and he bought it in 1979. It has the two canister setup and 
> you can see that they are minutes on each wheel well. Hope this helps.
>
> Best regards,
> Mike
>
>
> On Wed, Oct 23, 2019 at 2:07 PM Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com 
> <mailto:triumphstag at gmail.com>> wrote:
>
>     I do recall seeing??in the ROM or parts book or somewhere else an
>     illustration of a Stag with two canisters. The canisters were
>     placed on each strut tower.
>
>     Sujit
>
>     On Tue, Oct 22, 2019 at 6:17 PM John Mitchell <jmitch at snet.net
>     <mailto:jmitch at snet.net>> wrote:
>
>         I don't know.?? My car had no charcoal canister at all.?? I do
>         see a place on the right shock tower where the bracket should
>         attach.?? I picked up all the parts from Michael Coffey and he
>         thought there were 2 canisters also.
>
>         On 10/22/2019 8:52 PM, Frank Magnusson wrote:
>>         Hmm. ??Mine is in that range and only has the one. ??Where is
>>         the second cannister suppossed to be located?
>>
>>         Sent from my iPad
>>
>>         On Oct 22, 2019, at 7:46 PM, John Mitchell <jmitch at snet.net
>>         <mailto:jmitch at snet.net>> wrote:
>>
>>>         I was just reading in Stag News that from LE11276 until LE
>>>         20000 they hat 2 identical canisters.?? This is according to
>>>         Tony Fox.?? The story discusses the differences in Federal
>>>         Stags.
>>>
>>>         On 10/22/2019 8:13 PM, Frank Magnusson wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>         <Message: 6
>>>>         Date: Mon, 21 Oct 2019 19:01:19 -0400
>>>>         From: John Mitchell <jmitch at snet.net <mailto:jmitch at snet.net>>
>>>>         To: 'Triumphs' <triumphs at autox.team.net
>>>>         <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>>
>>>>         Subject: [TR] Mark I Federal charcoal canisters
>>>>         Message-ID: <d13a9748-b9be-2d64-83f7-ae96b85e9e86 at snet.net
>>>>         <mailto:d13a9748-b9be-2d64-83f7-ae96b85e9e86 at snet.net>>
>>>>         Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
>>>>
>>>>         Can anyone send me a picture of a Mark I federal stag with
>>>>         the 2??
>>>>         charcoal canisters.?? My car is a 72 and supposedly should
>>>>         have had the 2??
>>>>         canisters, but I only can find an attachment point for one.>
>>>>
>>>>         Hi John, mine is also a 72 Federal Mk I and has a single
>>>>         charcoal cannister mount on the R shock tower. ??I'd be
>>>>         happy to send a pic if it would be of any use.
>>>>
>>>>         I thought the difference in cannisters was 2 or 3 port from
>>>>         Mk I to Mk II not 1 or 2 cannisters but IDK. ??Mine is a 2
>>>>         port.
>>>>
>>>>         Frank
>>>>
>>>>         Sent from my iPad
>         ** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **
>
>         Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>         Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
>         http://www.team.net/archive
>
>         Unsubscribe/Manage:
>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumphstag at gmail.com
>
>
>
>
>     -- 
>     Sujit Roy
>     Cupertino, California
>
>     https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
>
>     ** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **
>
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
>     http://www.team.net/archive
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/burdickm at mindspring.com
>
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From keithstewart at bell.net  Thu Oct 24 06:58:27 2019
From: keithstewart at bell.net (Keith Stewart)
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2019 08:58:27 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A Body to Frame Attachment
In-Reply-To: <cdcaeb06-5464-dd80-2334-81594aaf452f@porterscustom.com>
References: <040f01d588e7$3086a110$9193e330$@bell.net>
 <CY4PR22MB0440F6AB46A43E07537B12E3FA680@CY4PR22MB0440.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
 <cdcaeb06-5464-dd80-2334-81594aaf452f@porterscustom.com>
Message-ID: <031701d58a6a$ba8e44b0$2faace10$@bell.net>

Thanks again David. With that bit of guidance, I can see the indent in the
sound proofing pad where the plate once sat. Much appreciated.

Keith

-----Original Message-----
From: David P <frogeye at porterscustom.com> 
Sent: October 23, 2019 9:00 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net; Keith Stewart <keithstewart at bell.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A Body to Frame Attachment

As I wrote 2 days ago... this is the location...

Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My
World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/



From trguy75 at gmail.com  Fri Oct 25 14:24:16 2019
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen)
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2019 16:24:16 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR8 Part Needs - Trying to Find Source
Message-ID: <013901d58b72$2d84ace0$888e06a0$@gmail.com>

Didn't think it would be so hard to find some consumable parts for an 81
TR8.  Anyone have recommendations for hoses, belts, brake hoses oil filters
etc.  
Thanks,
Jim Henningsen
Ocala FL
61 TR3A
62 TR4
75 TR6
82 Jeep CJ8
81 TR8 (maybe?) 


From billyb62 at gmail.com  Fri Oct 25 14:31:39 2019
From: billyb62 at gmail.com (Bill Hall)
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2019 16:31:39 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR8 Part Needs - Trying to Find Source
In-Reply-To: <013901d58b72$2d84ace0$888e06a0$@gmail.com>
References: <013901d58b72$2d84ace0$888e06a0$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAKQUVBKw+r+SQrYNAwRm1q2LnSq3PVAv5_z0vv1KbzM-7m9hCA@mail.gmail.com>

Have you tried The Roadster Factory?

Http://Trf.zeni.net/featureT78

On Fri, Oct 25, 2019 at 4:26 PM Jim Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Didn't think it would be so hard to find some consumable parts for an 81
> TR8.  Anyone have recommendations for hoses, belts, brake hoses oil filters
> etc.
> Thanks,
> Jim Henningsen
> Ocala FL
> 61 TR3A
> 62 TR4
> 75 TR6
> 82 Jeep CJ8
> 81 TR8 (maybe?)
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/billyb62 at gmail.com
>
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From trguy75 at gmail.com  Fri Oct 25 14:33:39 2019
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen)
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2019 16:33:39 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR8 Part Needs - Trying to Find Source
In-Reply-To: <CAKQUVBKw+r+SQrYNAwRm1q2LnSq3PVAv5_z0vv1KbzM-7m9hCA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <013901d58b72$2d84ace0$888e06a0$@gmail.com>
 <CAKQUVBKw+r+SQrYNAwRm1q2LnSq3PVAv5_z0vv1KbzM-7m9hCA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <015301d58b73$7c79bab0$756d3010$@gmail.com>

Yes.  TRF and Vicky Brit have back orders with unknown delivery dates.  Calling Moss next.  Left message with Woody too.  There has to be some wedge owners out there with the Gates part numbers for belts and hoses.  Might be easier to order that route.  

Thanks,

Jim

 

From: Bill Hall <billyb62 at gmail.com> 
Sent: Friday, October 25, 2019 4:32 PM
To: Jim Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR8 Part Needs - Trying to Find Source

 

Have you tried The Roadster Factory?

 

Http://Trf.zeni.net/featureT78

 

On Fri, Oct 25, 2019 at 4:26 PM Jim Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com <mailto:trguy75 at gmail.com> > wrote:

Didn't think it would be so hard to find some consumable parts for an 81
TR8.  Anyone have recommendations for hoses, belts, brake hoses oil filters
etc.  
Thanks,
Jim Henningsen
Ocala FL
61 TR3A
62 TR4
75 TR6
82 Jeep CJ8
81 TR8 (maybe?) 

** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>  **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/billyb62 at gmail.com

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From forzion7 at gmail.com  Fri Oct 25 14:41:55 2019
From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2019 16:41:55 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR8 Part Needs - Trying to Find Source
In-Reply-To: <013901d58b72$2d84ace0$888e06a0$@gmail.com>
References: <013901d58b72$2d84ace0$888e06a0$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAJ1eQwgESJq-_o3LCXeD+CqC0=3=CkvNPxi7Bsaiq-BUbAB+cQ@mail.gmail.com>

Jim;

British Part Northwest has been a pretty reliable source for
me, from time-to-time....

https://www.bpnorthwest.com/triumph/tr7-tr8.html?p=2

Dave

On Fri, Oct 25, 2019 at 4:26 PM Jim Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Didn't think it would be so hard to find some consumable parts for an 81
> TR8.  Anyone have recommendations for hoses, belts, brake hoses oil filters
> etc.
> Thanks,
> Jim Henningsen
> Ocala FL
> 61 TR3A
> 62 TR4
> 75 TR6
> 82 Jeep CJ8
> 81 TR8 (maybe?)
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7 at gmail.com
>
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From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com  Fri Oct 25 15:10:41 2019
From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad)
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2019 21:10:41 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR8 Part Needs - Trying to Find Source
In-Reply-To: <013901d58b72$2d84ace0$888e06a0$@gmail.com>
References: <013901d58b72$2d84ace0$888e06a0$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <366883545.1203881.1572037841251@mail.yahoo.com>

 Rockauto.com has all the things you mentioned in stock......name brands and good prices.


    On Friday, October 25, 2019, 03:26:56 PM CDT, Jim Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com> wrote:  
 
 Didn't think it would be so hard to find some consumable parts for an 81
TR8.? Anyone have recommendations for hoses, belts, brake hoses oil filters
etc.? 
Thanks,
Jim Henningsen
Ocala FL
61 TR3A
62 TR4
75 TR6
82 Jeep CJ8
81 TR8 (maybe?) 

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com
  
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From fmags at cox.net  Sat Oct 26 12:12:57 2019
From: fmags at cox.net (Frank Magnusson)
Date: Sat, 26 Oct 2019 13:12:57 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR8 Parts Needs - Trying to find source
Message-ID: <9D9C3F27-3C16-45CC-A38B-86DD73BAF9FE@cox.net>


Rimmer Bros.  Shipping is not all that bad and you'll have your parts in about a week.

<Didn't think it would be so hard to find some consumable parts for an 81
TR8.  Anyone have recommendations for hoses, belts, brake hoses oil filters
etc.  
Thanks,
Jim Henningsen
Ocala FL>



From lherault at verizon.net  Sat Oct 26 12:24:04 2019
From: lherault at verizon.net (Ron L'Herault)
Date: Sat, 26 Oct 2019 14:24:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 12, Issue 243
In-Reply-To: <mailman.13.1572112803.25606.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.13.1572112803.25606.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <001d01d58c2a$8cab9db0$a602d910$@net>

I recently learned of the existence of this place in Taunton, MA
https://www.thewedgeshop.com/

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
triumphs-request at autox.team.net

   2. Re: TR8 Part Needs - Trying to Find Source (Bill Hall)
   

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Fri, 25 Oct 2019 16:24:16 -0400
From: "Jim Henningsen" <trguy75 at gmail.com>
To: "'Triumphs'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR8 Part Needs - Trying to Find Source
Message-ID: <013901d58b72$2d84ace0$888e06a0$@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="us-ascii"

Didn't think it would be so hard to find some consumable parts for an 81
TR8.  Anyone have recommendations for hoses, belts, brake hoses oil filters
etc.  
Thanks,
Jim Henningsen
Ocala FL
61 TR3A
62 TR4
75 TR6
82 Jeep CJ8
81 TR8 (maybe?) 





From HDRider570 at att.net  Sat Oct 26 14:32:12 2019
From: HDRider570 at att.net (Q)
Date: Sat, 26 Oct 2019 13:32:12 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR8 Parts
Message-ID: <bcf8769e-8a50-e29c-3b71-f60c5a8c95ca@att.net>

NAPA Part numbers

AC Belt 259305
PS Belt 259341
Water Pump Belt 257470
Air Pump Belt 257360
Front Brake Hose 381225
Rear Brake Hose 381257


Edward Hamer
Petaluma CA

From actionsl at att.net  Sat Oct 26 15:02:17 2019
From: actionsl at att.net (Carl Carlson)
Date: Sat, 26 Oct 2019 14:02:17 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4A body
Message-ID: <DB28B577-2DD5-400D-B56C-EB013263F0C6@att.net>

I have 2 TR4A bodies for sale. Petty good shape if yours is not. 60 miles from Los Angeles. 661 675 7202

Carl

From actionsl at att.net  Sat Oct 26 15:02:17 2019
From: actionsl at att.net (Carl Carlson)
Date: Sat, 26 Oct 2019 14:02:17 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4A body
Message-ID: <DB28B577-2DD5-400D-B56C-EB013263F0C6@att.net>

I have 2 TR4A bodies for sale. Petty good shape if yours is not. 60 miles from Los Angeles. 661 675 7202

Carl

From dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Oct 27 07:36:02 2019
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 2019 13:36:02 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR8 Part Needs - Trying to Find Source
In-Reply-To: <013901d58b72$2d84ace0$888e06a0$@gmail.com>
References: <013901d58b72$2d84ace0$888e06a0$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <22771965.1021187.1572183362690@mail.yahoo.com>

 You should consider joining Triumph Wedge Owners Association.
https://www.triumphwedgeowners.org/club-benefits.html
A great repository of knowledge regarding TR7's and TR8's.
They have a parts cross reference for a great number of parts for our cars.
http://wedgelist.triumphwedgeowners.org/crossref/
Also, there is a list that specializes in wedge topics and you can find out about them at:
http://www.team.net/TR8/Mailing-List.html
There is a vibrant, active community of wedge owners and plenty of support is readily available.
Enjoy your car.
(BTW was that Bob Jone's car?)
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com>
To: 'Triumphs' <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Oct 25, 2019 3:26 pm
Subject: [TR] TR8 Part Needs - Trying to Find Source

Didn't think it would be so hard to find some consumable parts for an 81
TR8.? Anyone have recommendations for hoses, belts, brake hoses oil filters
etc.? 
Thanks,
Jim Henningsen
Ocala FL
61 TR3A
62 TR4
75 TR6
82 Jeep CJ8
81 TR8 (maybe?) 

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com
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From terryrs at comcast.net  Sun Oct 27 20:00:17 2019
From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH)
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 2019 22:00:17 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR radio?
Message-ID: <2000271536.55146.1572228018355@connect.xfinity.com>

This Craigslist post offers a TR3 radio.  FYI.  Think it's legit???

https://boston.craigslist.org/sob/pts/d/plymouth-late-50s-car-parts/7004533116.html
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From terryrs at comcast.net  Sun Oct 27 20:06:17 2019
From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH)
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 2019 22:06:17 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Start up
Message-ID: <1032410623.55185.1572228377976@connect.xfinity.com>

So my TR3 has been abruptly starting up with no choke.  But after driving, I'd had to push throttle completely down  to get it to restart, like after spending a few minutes shopping for replacement workboots or food.  
I figgered, hmmm...., easy start up in the cold with no choke, it must be running a bit rich already.  Checked the carbs and found the forward carb would tend to increase a bit when I lifted the piston a bit.  Adjusted the nut (upwards) to lean it out until that didn't seem an issue.  Ran the engine.  Shut it off.  Waited.  Re-started without the throttle easily.
'Scuse me.  THAT seems too freakin' easy!  Could it be????

Terry Smith, '59 Tr3A
New Hampshire, where I have maybe 4 more weeks of driving (albeit with winter coat).
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From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Sun Oct 27 20:06:58 2019
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 2019 19:06:58 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR radio?
In-Reply-To: <2000271536.55146.1572228018355@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <2000271536.55146.1572228018355@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <4ce91a12-b6f1-80da-3f1a-7a99d5d704d3@gmail.com>

On 10/27/19 7:00 PM, TERRY SMITH wrote:
> This Craigslist post offers a TR3 radio.? FYI.? Think it's legit???
>
> https://boston.craigslist.org/sob/pts/d/plymouth-late-50s-car-parts/7004533116.html
It is a later radio from a newer Triumph.


http://www.tr3a.info/radiomobile.htm


TeriAnn

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From terryrs at comcast.net  Sun Oct 27 20:10:03 2019
From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH)
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 2019 22:10:03 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] And then there's this....
Message-ID: <252043971.55245.1572228603296@connect.xfinity.com>

https://worcester.craigslist.org/cto/d/charlton-1958-triumph-tr3/6991904666.html

I'm wondering.  What's the price that's worth it for a complete restoration.  Body looks (relatively) rust free, though can't see the frame itself.  Thoughts?

Terry Smith, '59 Tr3A
New Hampshire where rust is the breath of life...the last breath of life....!
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From terryrs at comcast.net  Sun Oct 27 20:18:57 2019
From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH)
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 2019 22:18:57 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Floor Jack
Message-ID: <2022393976.55320.1572229137153@connect.xfinity.com>

I have gone to Home Gods with my wife more times than I can actually sleep through.  But today, she came with me to Harbor Freight in Manchester, NH.  She's amazing.  She was more interested in that than I was in HG.  So now, we call HF the Home Goods for Guys.  
Thing is, my floor jack died.  I did fix it by bleeding the hydraulics, but it was an excuse to realize it never fit under the cross member or differential of my TR3A.  Found a Pittsburgh low-profile jack (that I haven't tried yet, but measurements are positive).  So excited!
I've previously had to use a scrapped Toyota's scissor jack to hand-screw up enough to accommodate a floor jack, then re-jack with a floor jack.  Reverse the procedure to get the car back onto the floor.  Oh, I cannot wait!

So question.  HB Pittsburgh floor jacks seem "okay" for the price.  Thoughts?

Terry Smith, '59 Tr3A
New Hampshire, where the color is gone, the leaves have dropped, it's raining, and the end is near.
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From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Sun Oct 27 20:21:33 2019
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 2019 19:21:33 -0700
Subject: [TR] And then there's this....
In-Reply-To: <252043971.55245.1572228603296@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <252043971.55245.1572228603296@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <68f7ada0-9402-2413-9213-d9aa46dff9ae@gmail.com>

On 10/27/19 7:10 PM, TERRY SMITH wrote:
> https://worcester.craigslist.org/cto/d/charlton-1958-triumph-tr3/6991904666.html 
>
>
> I'm wondering.? What's the price that's worth it for a complete 
> restoration.? Body looks (relatively) rust free, though can't see the 
> frame itself. Thoughts?

Maybe worth half that price if there isn't a lot of rust. That car has 
been run into the dirt and put away wet. The body work & paint alone 
would be about $10K+. It needs a completely new interior and probably a 
complete rebuild of the engine. Unless rebuilding a car is your favorite 
past time hobby, You can purchase a really nice example for less than 
the asking price + restoration costs.


TeriAnn

-- 

Book - The Essential Guide to Overland Travel in the United States and 
Canada <http://overlandtravel.us>
2 years to write and 38 years of travel and camping to learn what to write

*Because the world beckons and life waits for no one*

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From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Sun Oct 27 20:35:11 2019
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 2019 19:35:11 -0700
Subject: [TR] Floor Jack
In-Reply-To: <2022393976.55320.1572229137153@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <2022393976.55320.1572229137153@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <3fae6383-074e-16a7-7ac8-6f0145abbe3c@gmail.com>

On 10/27/19 7:18 PM, TERRY SMITH wrote:
> I have gone to Home Gods with my wife more times than I can actually 
> sleep through.? But today, she came with me to Harbor Freight in 
> Manchester, NH. She's amazing.? She was more interested in that than I 
> was in HG.? So now, we call HF the Home Goods for Guys.
> Thing is, my floor jack died.? I did fix it by bleeding the 
> hydraulics, but it was an excuse to realize it never fit under the 
> cross member or differential of my TR3A.? Found a Pittsburgh 
> low-profile jack (that I haven't tried yet, but measurements are 
> positive).? So excited!
> I've previously had to use a scrapped Toyota's scissor jack to 
> hand-screw up enough to accommodate a floor jack, then re-jack with a 
> floor jack. Reverse the procedure to get the car back onto the floor.? 
> Oh, I cannot wait!
>
> So question.? HB Pittsburgh floor jacks seem "okay" for the price.? 
> Thoughts?

I have their aluminum one. Works fine under both the TR3 and the heavier 
Series Land Rover.

TeriAnn

-- 

Book - The Essential Guide to Overland Travel in the United States and 
Canada <http://overlandtravel.us>
2 years to write and 38 years of travel and camping to learn what to write

*Because the world beckons and life waits for no one*

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From grglmn at gmail.com  Sun Oct 27 20:57:24 2019
From: grglmn at gmail.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 2019 21:57:24 -0500
Subject: [TR] Floor Jack
In-Reply-To: <2022393976.55320.1572229137153@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <2022393976.55320.1572229137153@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <CAFtw3aa5rDmcf-Dpe3=x2t1Hrwmu-rixvvFsof+0o9BnUhjNgg@mail.gmail.com>

I have on of the aluminum ones too, nice and low for "our" cars.  Been
working fine for 10 years or so.  Only thing, the hydraulic release is like
an on off switch unless you really finesse it, don't know if they are all
like that.

Greg Lemon
TR250

On Sun, Oct 27, 2019, 9:19 PM TERRY SMITH <terryrs at comcast.net> wrote:

> I have gone to Home Gods with my wife more times than I can actually sleep
> through.  But today, she came with me to Harbor Freight in Manchester, NH.
> She's amazing.  She was more interested in that than I was in HG.  So now,
> we call HF the Home Goods for Guys.
> Thing is, my floor jack died.  I did fix it by bleeding the hydraulics,
> but it was an excuse to realize it never fit under the cross member or
> differential of my TR3A.  Found a Pittsburgh low-profile jack (that I
> haven't tried yet, but measurements are positive).  So excited!
> I've previously had to use a scrapped Toyota's scissor jack to hand-screw
> up enough to accommodate a floor jack, then re-jack with a floor jack.
> Reverse the procedure to get the car back onto the floor.  Oh, I cannot
> wait!
>
> So question.  HB Pittsburgh floor jacks seem "okay" for the price.
> Thoughts?
>
> Terry Smith, '59 Tr3A
> New Hampshire, where the color is gone, the leaves have dropped, it's
> raining, and the end is near.
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/grglmn at gmail.com
>
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From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Sun Oct 27 21:25:02 2019
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 2019 20:25:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] Floor Jack
In-Reply-To: <CAFtw3aa5rDmcf-Dpe3=x2t1Hrwmu-rixvvFsof+0o9BnUhjNgg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <2022393976.55320.1572229137153@connect.xfinity.com>
 <CAFtw3aa5rDmcf-Dpe3=x2t1Hrwmu-rixvvFsof+0o9BnUhjNgg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <037219f7-d465-ff20-facb-814eec3aa0cc@gmail.com>

On 10/27/19 7:57 PM, Greg Lemon wrote:
> I have on of the aluminum ones too, nice and low for "our" cars.?? 
> Been working fine for 10 years or so.?? Only thing, the hydraulic 
> release is like an on off switch unless you really finesse it, don't 
> know if they are all like that.
Mine is gentle on the shocks when lowering the vehicle. You just got the 
jack rabbit model ;-)
>
> Greg Lemon
> TR250
>
> On Sun, Oct 27, 2019, 9:19 PM TERRY SMITH <terryrs at comcast.net 
> <mailto:terryrs at comcast.net>> wrote:
>
>     I have gone to Home Gods with my wife more times than I can
>     actually sleep through.?? But today, she came with me to Harbor
>     Freight in Manchester, NH.?? She's amazing.? She was more
>     interested in that than I was in HG.?? So now, we call HF the Home
>     Goods for Guys.???
>     Thing is, my floor jack died.?? I did fix it by bleeding the
>     hydraulics, but it was an excuse to realize it never fit under the
>     cross member or differential of my TR3A.? Found a Pittsburgh
>     low-profile jack (that I haven't tried yet, but measurements are
>     positive).?? So excited!
>     I've previously had to use a scrapped Toyota's scissor jack to
>     hand-screw up enough to accommodate a floor jack, then re-jack
>     with a floor jack.?? Reverse the procedure to get the car back
>     onto the floor.?? Oh, I cannot wait!
>
>     So question.?? HB Pittsburgh floor jacks seem "okay" for the
>     price.?? Thoughts?
>
>     Terry Smith, '59 Tr3A
>     New Hampshire, where the color is gone, the leaves have dropped,
>     it's raining, and the end is near.
>     ** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **
>
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs?
>     http://www.team.net/archive
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/grglmn at gmail.com
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tjwakeman at gmail.com


-- 

Book - The Essential Guide to Overland Travel in the United States and 
Canada <http://overlandtravel.us>
2 years to write and 38 years of travel and camping to learn what to write

*Because the world beckons and life waits for no one*

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From wbeech at flash.net  Sun Oct 27 22:37:32 2019
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net)
Date: Sun, 27 Oct 2019 23:37:32 -0500
Subject: [TR] Floor Jack
In-Reply-To: <2022393976.55320.1572229137153@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <2022393976.55320.1572229137153@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <49929B19-AFD4-4519-95AB-FCD7007FA20B@flash.net>

Terry,
Are you talking about the little blue aluminum jack?  I have three of them, perfect fit under the TR3.   You can catch the on sale for about $60. 
Bill

Cactus Jack drinks coffee black......BWS

> On Oct 27, 2019, at 9:19 PM, TERRY SMITH <terryrs at comcast.net> wrote:
> 

?
I have gone to Home Gods with my wife more times than I can actually sleep through.  But today, she came with me to Harbor Freight in Manchester, NH.  She's amazing.  She was more interested in that than I was in HG.  So now, we call HF the Home Goods for Guys.  
Thing is, my floor jack died.  I did fix it by bleeding the hydraulics, but it was an excuse to realize it never fit under the cross member or differential of my TR3A.  Found a Pittsburgh low-profile jack (that I haven't tried yet, but measurements are positive).  So excited!
I've previously had to use a scrapped Toyota's scissor jack to hand-screw up enough to accommodate a floor jack, then re-jack with a floor jack.  Reverse the procedure to get the car back onto the floor.  Oh, I cannot wait!

So question.  HB Pittsburgh floor jacks seem "okay" for the price.  Thoughts?

Terry Smith, '59 Tr3A
New Hampshire, where the color is gone, the leaves have dropped, it's raining, and the end is near.
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net
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From fishplate at gmail.com  Mon Oct 28 06:13:17 2019
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 2019 08:13:17 -0400
Subject: [TR] Floor Jack
In-Reply-To: <2022393976.55320.1572229137153@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <2022393976.55320.1572229137153@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <CAO8Q7COqr0oNTcLZAH8oQrtz_XDqeO+icy1M2Jtczq1RsSoGmQ@mail.gmail.com>

On Sun, Oct 27, 2019 at 10:19 PM TERRY SMITH <terryrs at comcast.net> wrote:

>
> So question.  HB Pittsburgh floor jacks seem "okay" for the price.
> Thoughts?
>
>
Another vote for the aluminum "racing" jack.  I've had mine for years, and
it does the job.  It's so nice, somebody stole the one I bought for work
within six months of getting it.  Wherever it is, I bet it still works
great.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.
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From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Mon Oct 28 08:02:58 2019
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 2019 07:02:58 -0700
Subject: [TR] Floor Jack
In-Reply-To: <49929B19-AFD4-4519-95AB-FCD7007FA20B@flash.net>
References: <2022393976.55320.1572229137153@connect.xfinity.com>
 <49929B19-AFD4-4519-95AB-FCD7007FA20B@flash.net>
Message-ID: <0e3819d8-dbe1-19c8-7ae0-186dc24fa6d9@gmail.com>

On 10/27/19 9:37 PM, Wbeech at flash.net wrote:
> Terry,
> Are you talking about the little blue aluminum jack? ?I have three of 
> them, perfect fit under the TR3. ? You can catch the on sale for about 
> $60.
> Bill
>
Yes, the blue one. But I wouldn't call it little, but I guess size is 
what you are used to. Though I think the blue aluminum jacks come in a 
couple sizes.
> Cactus Jack drinks coffee black......BWS
TeriAnn drinks PG Tips tea, slightly sweet with milk....MMMMM
>
>> On Oct 27, 2019, at 9:19 PM, TERRY SMITH <terryrs at comcast.net> wrote:
>>
> ???
> I have gone to Home Gods with my wife more times than I can actually 
> sleep through.? But today, she came with me to Harbor Freight in 
> Manchester, NH.? She's amazing.? She was more interested in that than 
> I was in HG.? So now, we call HF the Home Goods for Guys.
> Thing is, my floor jack died.? I did fix it by bleeding the 
> hydraulics, but it was an excuse to realize it never fit under the 
> cross member or differential of my TR3A.? Found a Pittsburgh 
> low-profile jack (that I haven't tried yet, but measurements are 
> positive).? So excited!
> I've previously had to use a scrapped Toyota's scissor jack to 
> hand-screw up enough to accommodate a floor jack, then re-jack with a 
> floor jack.? Reverse the procedure to get the car back onto the 
> floor.? Oh, I cannot wait!
>
> So question.? HB Pittsburgh floor jacks seem "okay" for the price.? 
> Thoughts?
>
> Terry Smith, '59 Tr3A
> New Hampshire, where the color is gone, the leaves have dropped, it's 
> raining, and the end is near.
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs 
> ?http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tjwakeman at gmail.com


-- 

Book - The Essential Guide to Overland Travel in the United States and 
Canada <http://overlandtravel.us>
2 years to write and 38 years of travel and camping to learn what to write

*Because the world beckons and life waits for no one*

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From terryrs at comcast.net  Mon Oct 28 08:18:36 2019
From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH)
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 2019 10:18:36 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Floor Jack
In-Reply-To: <49929B19-AFD4-4519-95AB-FCD7007FA20B@flash.net>
References: <2022393976.55320.1572229137153@connect.xfinity.com>
 <49929B19-AFD4-4519-95AB-FCD7007FA20B@flash.net>
Message-ID: <854409943.280462.1572272317045@connect.xfinity.com>

I did wind up with the red Pittsburgh 3 ton low profile.  Overkill, I'm sure, but I need something a bit beefy for other projects around the homestead.  Heavy but rolls around easily and does slip cleanly underneath the TR's frame.  Oh boy!  No more dual jacking!

> On October 28, 2019 at 12:37 AM "Wbeech at flash.net" <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:
> 
>     Terry,
>     Are you talking about the little blue aluminum jack?  I have three of them, perfect fit under the TR3.   You can catch the on sale for about $60. 
>     Bill
> 
>     Cactus Jack drinks coffee black......BWS
> 
> 
>         > > On Oct 27, 2019, at 9:19 PM, TERRY SMITH <terryrs at comcast.net> wrote:
> > 
> > 
> >     >     I have gone to Home Gods with my wife more times than I can actually sleep through.  But today, she came with me to Harbor Freight in Manchester, NH.  She's amazing.  She was more interested in that than I was in HG.  So now, we call HF the Home Goods for Guys.  
>     Thing is, my floor jack died.  I did fix it by bleeding the hydraulics, but it was an excuse to realize it never fit under the cross member or differential of my TR3A.  Found a Pittsburgh low-profile jack (that I haven't tried yet, but measurements are positive).  So excited!
>     I've previously had to use a scrapped Toyota's scissor jack to hand-screw up enough to accommodate a floor jack, then re-jack with a floor jack.  Reverse the procedure to get the car back onto the floor.  Oh, I cannot wait!
> 
>     So question.  HB Pittsburgh floor jacks seem "okay" for the price.  Thoughts?
> 
>     Terry Smith, '59 Tr3A
>     New Hampshire, where the color is gone, the leaves have dropped, it's raining, and the end is near.
>     ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
>     Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net
> 


 

> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
> 
>     Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at comcast.net
> 


 
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From levilevi at comcast.net  Mon Oct 28 10:55:37 2019
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud)
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 2019 10:55:37 -0600
Subject: [TR] Start up
In-Reply-To: <1032410623.55185.1572228377976@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <1032410623.55185.1572228377976@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <25E5306F-D024-4F4A-BCED-2797AD9DDE06@comcast.net>

Usually when a Triumph starts without being choked it means the float bowl needles are sticking a bit open. Dump the contents of your float bowls into a white bowl to see if there's any small particles that might be causing the needles to stick.
I dump my ZS float bowls annually, and always before a long road trip, and I have two different gas filters, but stuff always shows up in spite of coating the gas tank.
Bud

Sent from my Commodore 64

> On Oct 27, 2019, at 8:06 PM, TERRY SMITH <terryrs at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> So my TR3 has been abruptly starting up with no choke.  But after driving, I'd had to push throttle completely down  to get it to restart, like after spending a few minutes shopping for replacement workboots or food.  
> I figgered, hmmm...., easy start up in the cold with no choke, it must be running a bit rich already.  Checked the carbs and found the forward carb would tend to increase a bit when I lifted the piston a bit.  Adjusted the nut (upwards) to lean it out until that didn't seem an issue.  Ran the engine.  Shut it off.  Waited.  Re-started without the throttle easily.
> 'Scuse me.  THAT seems too freakin' easy!  Could it be????
> 
> Terry Smith, '59 Tr3A
> New Hampshire, where I have maybe 4 more weeks of driving (albeit with winter coat).
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net
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From HDRider570 at att.net  Mon Oct 28 16:11:00 2019
From: HDRider570 at att.net (Q)
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 2019 15:11:00 -0700
Subject: [TR] Floor Jack
Message-ID: <ff4b5882-f4b9-6829-8eb5-e2f5c4e6a337@att.net>

I have several different HF Jacks.  I have had the small aluminum jack 
for about 12 years and a couple of 2 ton steel ones for a more than 20 
years.  No problems to date.  My only issue is the small aluminum jack's 
lift is about 1" short of placing a TR's front wheels on my steel ramps.

The small aluminum one is great when you are under the car working on 
things.  Right now it is holding the back of the motor of my TR4 up 
while I have the transmission out.  It is so much easier to move it 
around than the larger steel ones.  It's a lot easier to put in a trunk 
when the wife gets a flat as well.

Edward Hamer
Petaluma CA

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Mon Oct 28 20:46:29 2019
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 2019 22:46:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] Floor Jack
In-Reply-To: <ff4b5882-f4b9-6829-8eb5-e2f5c4e6a337@att.net>
References: <ff4b5882-f4b9-6829-8eb5-e2f5c4e6a337@att.net>
Message-ID: <CANhzkeOLYJvACuT9iHVsDFgqgPzasPnN6KQNxnDcXHtT-06A4Q@mail.gmail.com>

I have the low profile steel one. Very happy. The orange one I had blew a
seal, but was a work horse for many years
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From stucohen at aol.com  Mon Oct 28 20:47:32 2019
From: stucohen at aol.com (Stuart Cohen)
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 2019 13:47:32 +1100
Subject: [TR] Newton Commercial
References: <E49BD840-CECD-4142-872D-0A35B4DB7E22.ref@aol.com>
Message-ID: <E49BD840-CECD-4142-872D-0A35B4DB7E22@aol.com>

Has anyone had any experience with sending their seats over to the UK to be recovered and restored by Newton Commercial? Any ideas about the cheapest way to send to Spitfire seats there and back?

From rrochlin at comcast.net  Tue Oct 29 06:43:02 2019
From: rrochlin at comcast.net (Rochlin Robert)
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 2019 08:43:02 -0400
Subject: [TR] Floor Jack
In-Reply-To: <CANhzkeOLYJvACuT9iHVsDFgqgPzasPnN6KQNxnDcXHtT-06A4Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <ff4b5882-f4b9-6829-8eb5-e2f5c4e6a337@att.net>
 <CANhzkeOLYJvACuT9iHVsDFgqgPzasPnN6KQNxnDcXHtT-06A4Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <3D013565-2646-4988-BB67-8BB82C193852@comcast.net>

	I?ve had a 3 ton HF aluminum jack for about 2 years. It really is much easier than my steel jacks to muscle around and, on sale, it was really reasonable.  It seems that the chief criticism for all of the HF jacks in the rating is that the seals fail, sometimes almost immediately, and there are no rebuild kits or replacement seals available.  My guess is that if the seals seat correctly when new the HF jacks are pretty reliable.
	Best,
	Bob

> On Oct 28, 2019, at 10:46 PM, Chris Simo <ccsimonsen at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> I have the low profile steel one. Very happy. The orange one I had blew a seal, but was a work horse for many years
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rrochlin at comcast.net


From dave at ranteer.com  Tue Oct 29 06:58:27 2019
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 2019 07:58:27 -0500
Subject: [TR] Newton Commercial
In-Reply-To: <E49BD840-CECD-4142-872D-0A35B4DB7E22@aol.com>
References: <E49BD840-CECD-4142-872D-0A35B4DB7E22.ref@aol.com>
 <E49BD840-CECD-4142-872D-0A35B4DB7E22@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000001d58e58$8f180540$ad480fc0$@ranteer.com>

I just have to ask - with so many highly qualified companies here in the US
why would you do that?  I can recommend 2 that I have dealt with here in
Dallas if you don't have any local companies.  And the 6 Pack event in St.
Louis toured an excellent company there.  

I am pretty sure that if you ask for qualified companies you will get more
choices than you can handle just from this list

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Stuart Cohen
Sent: Monday, October 28, 2019 9:48 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Newton Commercial

Has anyone had any experience with sending their seats over to the UK to be
recovered and restored by Newton Commercial? Any ideas about the cheapest
way to send to Spitfire seats there and back?
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave at ranteer.com


From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com  Tue Oct 29 07:48:40 2019
From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad)
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 2019 13:48:40 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Newton Commercial
In-Reply-To: <000001d58e58$8f180540$ad480fc0$@ranteer.com>
References: <E49BD840-CECD-4142-872D-0A35B4DB7E22.ref@aol.com>
 <E49BD840-CECD-4142-872D-0A35B4DB7E22@aol.com>
 <000001d58e58$8f180540$ad480fc0$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <1457836310.2869784.1572356920902@mail.yahoo.com>

 I agree.? There is nothing "magical" about Newton Commercial other than they make the best kits.? Any competent upholstery shop here in the US can install them and have them looking great!
Where are you located?
Chad in Tulsa
    On Tuesday, October 29, 2019, 08:01:10 AM CDT, dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:  
 
 I just have to ask - with so many highly qualified companies here in the US
why would you do that?? I can recommend 2 that I have dealt with here in
Dallas if you don't have any local companies.? And the 6 Pack event in St.
Louis toured an excellent company there.? 

I am pretty sure that if you ask for qualified companies you will get more
choices than you can handle just from this list

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Stuart Cohen
Sent: Monday, October 28, 2019 9:48 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Newton Commercial

Has anyone had any experience with sending their seats over to the UK to be
recovered and restored by Newton Commercial? Any ideas about the cheapest
way to send to Spitfire seats there and back?
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave at ranteer.com

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From terryrs at comcast.net  Tue Oct 29 13:51:23 2019
From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH)
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 2019 15:51:23 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Front Sway Bar
Message-ID: <1641165888.100838.1572378683991@connect.xfinity.com>

Hope this doesn't violate rules here.  Finally came to the conclusion that the front sway bar I bought a decade ago but never installed, is never going to get installed.  I put it on E-Bay for $70 starting bid if anyone's interested.  

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire
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From dave at ranteer.com  Tue Oct 29 17:46:02 2019
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 2019 18:46:02 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 and TR6 heater hoses
Message-ID: <001601d58eb3$06a22f00$13e68d00$@ranteer.com>

Anyone found a good source for these or do I need to order from moss

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From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com  Tue Oct 29 18:15:36 2019
From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad)
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2019 00:15:36 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR4 and TR6 heater hoses
In-Reply-To: <001601d58eb3$06a22f00$13e68d00$@ranteer.com>
References: <001601d58eb3$06a22f00$13e68d00$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <1636414519.3291621.1572394536431@mail.yahoo.com>

 Which hoses are you talking about?


    On Tuesday, October 29, 2019, 06:46:12 PM CDT, dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:  
 
 
Anyone found a good source for these or do I need to order from moss
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From forzion7 at gmail.com  Tue Oct 29 18:18:39 2019
From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 2019 20:18:39 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 and TR6 heater hoses
In-Reply-To: <001601d58eb3$06a22f00$13e68d00$@ranteer.com>
References: <001601d58eb3$06a22f00$13e68d00$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <CAJ1eQwiZFfVT9LmWbYNkzu+BBgXochmXA=fHNYGyG1ENSH5xSw@mail.gmail.com>

Unless you're sticking to originality,  your local FLAPS should have heater
hose...

Dave

On Tue, Oct 29, 2019, 7:46 PM dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:

> Anyone found a good source for these or do I need to order from moss
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
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>
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From bk13 at earthlink.net  Tue Oct 29 21:45:03 2019
From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp)
Date: Tue, 29 Oct 2019 20:45:03 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 and TR6 heater hoses
In-Reply-To: <001601d58eb3$06a22f00$13e68d00$@ranteer.com>
References: <001601d58eb3$06a22f00$13e68d00$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <68a462be-b606-07a2-8b8d-38cbe37570a7@earthlink.net>

In addition to Moss, TRF is a source.? They have nice kits of everything 
in one bag.? See
http://trf.zeni.net/TR6-TR250GB/140.php
 ?for a sample.? You can also go a few pages earlier and get the 
original style green hoses if you are so inclined.

Brian

On 10/29/2019 4:46 PM, dave wrote:
>
> Anyone found a good source for these or do I need to order from moss
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
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From ryel at mac.com  Wed Oct 30 13:04:52 2019
From: ryel at mac.com (Rye Livingston)
Date: Wed, 30 Oct 2019 19:04:52 -0000
Subject: [TR] Floor Jack
Message-ID: <8f2d0d77-5647-4290-b78a-9ca2b7ae5fcb@me.com>

This topic may be winding down, but I'm gonna chime in with my recommendation. ?Both my brother and I have the blue, aluminum, 80th anniversary OTC 2 ton Racing floor jack. ?Not sure?about the racing aspect, other than it is very light and easy to move around.

The main reason I want to highly recommend this jack is their support. ?I'd had it for a couple of ears and the hydraulic part failed. ?I emailed them about it, and they emailed back asking if I wanted to send the jack in, or they could send me the new hydraulic part. ?Just like that! ?Obviously I work on cars so I should be able to swap it out or I better turn in my "man card". No questions asked, no charge for anything, new part arrived. ?I swapped it out, and recycled the old one. ?My brother has had his jack longer than me, he's had no issues, so I think this was a one off thing.

To me a company can really show it's "metal" when they encounter of a problem. ?They came through with flying colors.

Rye
1960 TR3A

On October 29, 2019 at 5:43 AM, Rochlin Robert <rrochlin at comcast.net> wrote:

? ? ? ?I?ve had a 3 ton HF aluminum jack for about 2 years. It really is much easier than my steel jacks to muscle around and, on sale, it was really reasonable. It seems that the chief criticism for all of the HF jacks in the rating is that the seals fail, sometimes almost immediately, and there are no rebuild kits or replacement seals available. My guess is that if the seals seat correctly when new the HF jacks are pretty reliable.
? ? ? ?Best,
? ? ?Bob

On Oct 28, 2019, at 10:46 PM, Chris Simo <ccsimonsen at gmail.com> wrote:

I have the low profile steel one. Very happy. The orange one I had blew a seal, but was a work horse for many years
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive

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