From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca  Wed May  1 07:47:59 2019
From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (Art McEwen)
Date: Wed, 01 May 2019 09:47:59 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A  Nut behind the wheel
In-Reply-To: <7340fd1c157e2.5cc9a36f@cgocable.ca>
References: <7390ac0f10a5b.5cc9a2f2@cgocable.ca>
 <72d0922115b6f.5cc9a32e@cgocable.ca>
 <7340fd1c157e2.5cc9a36f@cgocable.ca>
Message-ID: <7320bba71098d.5cc96b4f@cgocable.ca>

In this case not the driver but literally the nut that holds the steering wheel on: Is there a lock washer mechanism that I (and the parts diagrams) are missing or is it just a given that every few months I have to loosen the trafficator housing and tap that nut tighter with a flat screwdriver and hammer?

Cheers,


Art
'60 TR3.
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From wbeech at flash.net  Wed May  1 08:05:30 2019
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net)
Date: Wed, 1 May 2019 09:05:30 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3A  Nut behind the wheel
In-Reply-To: <7320bba71098d.5cc96b4f@cgocable.ca>
References: <7390ac0f10a5b.5cc9a2f2@cgocable.ca>
 <72d0922115b6f.5cc9a32e@cgocable.ca> <7340fd1c157e2.5cc9a36f@cgocable.ca>
 <7320bba71098d.5cc96b4f@cgocable.ca>
Message-ID: <40CC857D-0D4B-4C02-8373-133260885491@flash.net>

Never had that problem with any TR3s past or present.  If you have enough thread I don?t see why a lock washer, split or star, would not work for you.   Or, if you can find a Stover nut of the correct threads.  

Bill B
TS30800L (No. 6)

Sent from my DynaTAC 8000X

On May 1, 2019, at 8:47 AM, Art McEwen <amcewen2 at cogeco.ca> wrote:

In this case not the driver but literally the nut that holds the steering wheel on:   Is there a lock washer mechanism that I (and the parts diagrams) are missing or is it just a given that every few months I have to loosen the trafficator housing and tap that nut tighter with a flat screwdriver and hammer?

Cheers,

Art
'60 TR3.
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net


From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed May  1 08:56:06 2019
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 1 May 2019 07:56:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A  Nut behind the wheel
In-Reply-To: <7320bba71098d.5cc96b4f@cgocable.ca>
References: <7390ac0f10a5b.5cc9a2f2@cgocable.ca>
 <72d0922115b6f.5cc9a32e@cgocable.ca> <7340fd1c157e2.5cc9a36f@cgocable.ca>
 <7320bba71098d.5cc96b4f@cgocable.ca>
Message-ID: <948E3BFBD9964624B195664CB595CE1D@RYPC>

I believe you're supposed to peen the nut lightly, to help lock it to the
threads.  This is mentioned in the TR4 manual.
Or a couple drops of purple Loctite should do nicely.

But I've never done either; perhaps because I tighten mine with a socket and
big ratchet.

-- Randall 
56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild
71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild 

>   Is there a lock washer mechanism 
> that I (and the parts diagrams) are missing or is it just a 
> given that every few months I have to loosen the trafficator 
> housing and tap that nut tighter with a flat screwdriver and hammer?


From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca  Wed May  1 09:04:21 2019
From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (Art McEwen)
Date: Wed, 01 May 2019 11:04:21 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A  Nut behind the wheel
In-Reply-To: <7320a72413c06.5cc9b542@cgocable.ca>
References: <7390ac0f10a5b.5cc9a2f2@cgocable.ca>
 <72d0922115b6f.5cc9a32e@cgocable.ca>
 <7340fd1c157e2.5cc9a36f@cgocable.ca>
 <7320bba71098d.5cc96b4f@cgocable.ca>
 <948E3BFBD9964624B195664CB595CE1D@RYPC>
 <73909f0514b06.5cc9b506@cgocable.ca>
 <7320a72413c06.5cc9b542@cgocable.ca>
Message-ID: <73b0d5dc154d1.5cc97d35@cgocable.ca>

Yeah loctite would work just as well as a lock washer. When I bite the bullet and decide I want to re-thread the wires down the steering tube (2nd worst job on the car) I'll add that. What torque do you use? 

On 05/01/19, Randall  <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
> I believe you're supposed to peen the nut lightly, to help lock it to the
> threads. This is mentioned in the TR4 manual.
> Or a couple drops of purple Loctite should do nicely.
> 
> But I've never done either; perhaps because I tighten mine with a socket and
> big ratchet.
> 
> -- Randall 
> 56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
> 71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild
> 71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild 
> 
> > Is there a lock washer mechanism 
> > that I (and the parts diagrams) are missing or is it just a 
> > given that every few months I have to loosen the trafficator 
> > housing and tap that nut tighter with a flat screwdriver and hammer?
> 
> 
> 
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From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed May  1 11:41:43 2019
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 1 May 2019 10:41:43 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A  Nut behind the wheel
In-Reply-To: <73b0d5dc154d1.5cc97d35@cgocable.ca>
References: <7390ac0f10a5b.5cc9a2f2@cgocable.ca>
 <72d0922115b6f.5cc9a32e@cgocable.ca> <7340fd1c157e2.5cc9a36f@cgocable.ca>
 <7320bba71098d.5cc96b4f@cgocable.ca> <948E3BFBD9964624B195664CB595CE1D@RYPC>
 <73909f0514b06.5cc9b506@cgocable.ca> <7320a72413c06.5cc9b542@cgocable.ca>
 <73b0d5dc154d1.5cc97d35@cgocable.ca>
Message-ID: <8BB9285FD4A2429C9BABC98954610ED2@RYPC>


> Yeah loctite would work just as well as a lock washer.   When 
> I bite the bullet and decide I want to re-thread the wires 
> down the steering tube (2nd worst job on the car) I'll add 
> that.   What torque do you use?   

About all I can get, just holding the wheel with my other hand.  Never tried
to measure it.

FWIW, I usually remove the tube with the wires still inside, unless there is
some reason I need them out of the tube.  Just pull the control head back
until the ends of the wires are at the end of the tube (leaving just enough
sticking out to grab later). Then remove the nut on the front of the
steering box, and the compression sleeve (aka olive) under it.  Wait for the
oil to drain (if any) then pull the control head, wires and tube out as an
assembly.

If I do have to change the wires, I generally pull them through the tube
first, then put the tube back in the column.  I fasten a length of steel
"handy" wire (aka baling wire) to the end of the electrical wires, poke it
through the tube, then clamp the far end in the bench vise.  Then pull the
tube with one hand, while guiding/stuffing the harness into it with the
other hand.

Another alternative might be the penetrating version (aka green) of Loctite.
It is applied with the nut already tightened, and wicks it's way into the
threads.
www.loctiteproducts.com/tds/T_LKR_GREEN_tds.pdf

- Randall



From anabil007 at comcast.net  Wed May  1 12:34:44 2019
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh)
Date: Wed, 1 May 2019 11:34:44 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A  Nut behind the wheel
In-Reply-To: <7320bba71098d.5cc96b4f@cgocable.ca>
References: <7390ac0f10a5b.5cc9a2f2@cgocable.ca>
 <72d0922115b6f.5cc9a32e@cgocable.ca> <7340fd1c157e2.5cc9a36f@cgocable.ca>
 <7320bba71098d.5cc96b4f@cgocable.ca>
Message-ID: <A313303F-77FE-42B6-90E3-7EA50A5C9508@comcast.net>

There is a wrench for that ? worth the price.

> On May 1, 2019, at 6:47 AM, Art McEwen <amcewen2 at cogeco.ca> wrote:
> 
> In this case not the driver but literally the nut that holds the steering wheel on:   Is there a lock washer mechanism that I (and the parts diagrams) are missing or is it just a given that every few months I have to loosen the trafficator housing and tap that nut tighter with a flat screwdriver and hammer?
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Art
> '60 TR3.
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **


From auprichard at uprichard.net  Wed May  1 13:30:02 2019
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Wed, 1 May 2019 15:30:02 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A  Nut behind the wheel
In-Reply-To: <A313303F-77FE-42B6-90E3-7EA50A5C9508@comcast.net>
References: <7390ac0f10a5b.5cc9a2f2@cgocable.ca>
 <72d0922115b6f.5cc9a32e@cgocable.ca> <7340fd1c157e2.5cc9a36f@cgocable.ca>
 <7320bba71098d.5cc96b4f@cgocable.ca>
 <A313303F-77FE-42B6-90E3-7EA50A5C9508@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <009001d50054$465e5da0$d31b18e0$@uprichard.net>

One and five-sixteenths if I remember correctly.  

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Pugh
Sent: Wednesday, May 1, 2019 2:35 PM
To: Art McEwen
Cc: TR3/6
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Nut behind the wheel

There is a wrench for that ? worth the price.

> On May 1, 2019, at 6:47 AM, Art McEwen <amcewen2 at cogeco.ca> wrote:
> 
> In this case not the driver but literally the nut that holds the steering wheel on:   Is there a lock washer mechanism that I (and the parts diagrams) are missing or is it just a given that every few months I have to loosen the trafficator housing and tap that nut tighter with a flat screwdriver and hammer?
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Art
> '60 TR3.
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net


From dave at ranteer.com  Thu May  2 17:40:44 2019
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Thu, 2 May 2019 18:40:44 -0500
Subject: [TR] tr250 wiring
Message-ID: <001401d50140$76874950$6395dbf0$@ranteer.com>

I have a tr4, which the previous owners heavily modified, including the
electrical system.  I'm starting to work through it, a little at a time.
Since it has an alternator (an early 60's GM unit), a digital voltage
regulator, and just "a few" other modifications, I'm using a tr250 wiring
diagram, which seems about right.

 

Since of course they paid no attention whatsoever to correct colors (and I'm
trying to), I was wondering if anyone knows how to tell on the alternator
which one is ind and which one is F (see attached diagram).  There is no
wire going to the alternator warning lamp.

 

There are two wires that go directly from the alternator to the regulator,
so I'm careful to match what was there.  I'd just like to know which is
which.  The order on the digital regulator does not match the diagram.

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From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Thu May  2 18:15:47 2019
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Thu, 2 May 2019 20:15:47 -0400
Subject: [TR] tr250 wiring
In-Reply-To: <001401d50140$76874950$6395dbf0$@ranteer.com>
References: <001401d50140$76874950$6395dbf0$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <CANhzkeMn3QtzzTRugbU4US_kPea84iqhwibQkktdTg5=v1-JUQ@mail.gmail.com>

I'd use the tr4 diagram.  The alternator should be pretty straightforward,
but seldom is (unless you bought the car from Randall).

I have the GM alternator on my Tr4. Output goes directly to the battery and
bypassed the amp meter as the system can't support the full out put.
Randall uses the amp meter with a shunt.

I update my wiring diagram with any updates as I go along. Alternator,
headlight relays, horn relays, usb charger, solid state ignition, etc.
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From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu May  2 18:29:03 2019
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 2 May 2019 17:29:03 -0700
Subject: [TR] tr250 wiring
In-Reply-To: <001401d50140$76874950$6395dbf0$@ranteer.com>
References: <001401d50140$76874950$6395dbf0$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <0BD7D4BE358F480BA182247C84EEFB47@RYPC>

The wire functions are probably not an exact match for the TR250 diagram; in
particular there may be no IND output at all from the alternator.

The information I'm looking at (which may or may not actually match your
alternator) says early Delco units used "F" and "R" terminals; with F being
control voltage to the rotor (which is grounded to the case), and "R" being
an AC voltage to operate the relay contained inside the external regulator
box.  If there is an IND output for the dash lamp, it will be a 4th terminal
on the regulator.

Since you are reworking things anyway, have you considered using a more
modern alternator?  Unlike Ford, GM almost immediately went to an internally
regulated alternator.

-- Randall 
56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild
71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild 
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From triumphstag at gmail.com  Fri May  3 00:22:29 2019
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Thu, 2 May 2019 23:22:29 -0700
Subject: [TR] is my coil on its way out on my Triumph
Message-ID: <CANLCLaGzv0Y7LFTLz7gOqYNhh3ZzrrMdPQ9mV6FtqU=92j2b5Q@mail.gmail.com>

While driving home today I noticed after about 20 mins of sitting in stop
and go traffic, the car seems to be sluggish like there is no go power
under acceleration. The temp. here is about 70 F today
After a two hour stop, I noticed the power is back and the car accelerated
well.

I have a luminition unit sitting next to the relay box inside the car. I
have a ballast. The coil is sitting attached to the manifold.
The coil in the car is a Unipart one and its resistance is about 2.1 ohm
when hot. I will check the resistance tmr. when cold.


I have 2 spare coils, one labeled LUCAS 15C6 and the other no name one made
in Japan. Both the coils show a resistance of about 2 ohms. ( multi meter
was checked against a good known resistor.)

As a test, I installed the Japanese coil and noticed the car starts and
then dies. I can only assume this coil should be used without a ballast.
The LUCAS coil is an old Stag coil. (date ?73 or something like this) It
seems to work OK with my setup. I plan to try this LUCAS coil and see if
the car drives better.

How critical is the resistance if I use my current setup? Should I even try
the old LUCAS coil with the 2 ohm resistance, or should I invest in a new
coil with the correct 1.5 ohm resistance?

Triumph Stag
Sujit

-- 
Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California

https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
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From dave1massey at cs.com  Fri May  3 05:39:23 2019
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2019 11:39:23 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] tr250 wiring
References: <2033482097.3760434.1556883563557.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <2033482097.3760434.1556883563557@mail.yahoo.com>

 Are you documenting your modifications for the benefit of the next guy who works on it (which may be you)?
I heavily modified my TR6 wiring but I carry a diagram in the glovebox.? It comes in handy when you get to be my age.


 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen at gmail.com>
To: dave <dave at ranteer.com>; list Triumph <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, May 2, 2019 7:16 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] tr250 wiring

I'd use the tr4 diagram.? The alternator should be pretty straightforward, but seldom is (unless you bought the car from Randall).

I have the GM alternator on my Tr4. Output goes directly to the battery and bypassed the amp meter as the system can't support the full out put.? Randall uses the amp meter with a shunt.
I update my wiring diagram with any updates as I?go along. Alternator, headlight relays, horn relays, usb charger, solid state ignition, etc.** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive


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From rrochlin at comcast.net  Fri May  3 11:51:43 2019
From: rrochlin at comcast.net (Rochlin Robert)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2019 13:51:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] Transmission 1st Gear Solution and a New Question
Message-ID: <CDAFE585-3A67-4F1E-B7AC-8E8907B8A16D@comcast.net>

	So I started to disassemble the car to remove the transmission.  When I got to the point that the transmission was exposed I decided to give the issue more thought before I proceeded any further. I spoke to the guy who had originally rebuilt the transmission who told me that he thought the problem was in the top cover gear selector mechanism and not in the transmission, and to take a look at that before I removed the transmission. I removed the top cover and compared it to the spare transmission top cover that I have.I found no difference and nothing wrong.  I did however notice that the transmission went into first more positively than when I had the unit together in the car.  My thought is that somehow I mis-installed the rubber boot and it impinged on the shifter when engaging first gear, pushing it back just enough to slip the transmission out of first gear intermittently.  I buttoned up the transmission and carefully installed the shifter boot and gator.  The transmission and overdrive are now shifting dependably and no longer slipping out of 1st gear. Since the driving season whistle blew on May 1,  I?m putting off doing any work on the clutch etc until the end of October. 
	Since one of the most disagreeable parts of getting to the transmission is wrestling the one piece transmission tunnel cover off without getting the oil and thrown grease coating the inside of the cover on the interior of the car my question is has anyone installed the two piece transmission tunnel from Moss and British Parts Northwest? If so, is it an improvement over the one pice cover and did the predrilled bolt holes in the cover line up correctly with the frame?
	Thanks to all for the good advice. I hope everyone is able to get their car out and running as we approach the good weather.
	Best,
	Bob
	?72 TR6
	

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Fri May  3 13:53:51 2019
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1)
Date: Fri, 03 May 2019 15:53:51 -0400
Subject: [TR] Lucas alternator , TR8
Message-ID: <wh417xcw67ulruj1sqpi1itx.1556913231636@email.android.com>


    
If the dash indicator light does not illuminate when the ignition is turned on and the system remains at 11.5 volts with the engine running,? isn't it time to repair or replace the alternator?? The lamp and its wiring to the alternator is good, by the way.Happy Connecting. Sent from my Sprint Samsung Galaxy S? 5
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From deruiterville at hotmail.com  Fri May  3 17:02:51 2019
From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2019 23:02:51 +0000
Subject: [TR] Lucas alternator , TR8
In-Reply-To: <wh417xcw67ulruj1sqpi1itx.1556913231636@email.android.com>
References: <wh417xcw67ulruj1sqpi1itx.1556913231636@email.android.com>
Message-ID: <CY4PR1601MB125522F791C61591E53F46BBB9350@CY4PR1601MB1255.namprd16.prod.outlook.com>

Sounds to me like its time to drive your 3A instead Ed!  But yes, I think if you only are getting 11.5 volts at the battery your alternator is dead.  I just replaced one of those alternators that look like a Lucas generator on my TR4 and it had the same symptoms - only got 500 miles out of it before the heat cooked it.

Randy
Fog#37

________________________________
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of fogbro1 <fogbro1 at comcast.net>
Sent: Friday, May 3, 2019 2:53 PM
To: Triumph List
Subject: [TR] Lucas alternator , TR8

If the dash indicator light does not illuminate when the ignition is turned on and the system remains at 11.5 volts with the engine running,  isn't it time to repair or replace the alternator?  The lamp and its wiring to the alternator is good, by the way.



Happy Connecting. Sent from my Sprint Samsung Galaxy S? 5
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From spamiam at comcast.net  Sat May  4 13:30:39 2019
From: spamiam at comcast.net (Anthony Rhodes)
Date: Sat, 4 May 2019 15:30:39 -0400
Subject: [TR] Lucas alternator
Message-ID: <1100211E-3ADE-4160-BD9F-3DAE42554288@comcast.net>

I think that those "stealth" alternators are over-rated both literally and figuratively.  

With their poor ventilation, I don't see how they can manage their rated output on a continuous basis.The saving grace for this, is that these "35 amp" alternators are being used and systems that generally will have a peak demand of no more than 20-21 amps.

I think a properly maintained stock generator is perfectly well suited to a stock set up in the TR 2-4A cars. 

If you have additional power-hungry ancillaries, then a real alternator that LOOKS like a real alternator will probably function better and live longer than the stealth units.

-Tony

Sent from my 1837 Babbage Analytical Engine

> 
> Date: Fri, 3 May 2019 23:02:51 +0000
> From: Randy and Valerie DeRuiter <deruiterville at hotmail.com>
> To: fogbro1 <fogbro1 at comcast.net>, Triumph List
>    <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] Lucas alternator , TR8d
> Message-ID:
>    <CY4PR1601MB125522F791C61591E53F46BBB9350 at CY4PR1601MB1255.namprd16.prod.outlook.com>
>    
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> Sounds to me like its time to drive your 3A instead Ed!  But yes, I think if you only are getting 11.5 volts at the battery your alternator is dead.  I just replaced one of those alternators that look like a Lucas generator on my TR4 and it had the same symptoms - only got 500 miles out of it before the heat cooked it.
> 
> Randy
> Fog#37
> 
> ________________________________
> 


From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Sat May  4 13:32:28 2019
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Sat, 4 May 2019 15:32:28 -0400
Subject: [TR] tr250 wiring
In-Reply-To: <2033482097.3760434.1556883563557@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <2033482097.3760434.1556883563557.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2033482097.3760434.1556883563557@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CANhzkeN6OUzK49xpdJCB25YhViKTr7=YAr9OLiLG3aYjGfs-SA@mail.gmail.com>

Yes, for the next caretaker. And also to show how my mods can be reversed
to go back to stock.

I had a small box of parts to make it original again, now it's a crate and
the trans isn't in it!

But, I also helps with my remembery!

So many mods, so little time.

Also, I make it a point to have at least one roadworthy TR at any
given time....

Sent from my TRASH-80

On Fri, May 3, 2019, 7:39 AM DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:

> Are you documenting your modifications for the benefit of the next guy who
> works on it (which may be you)?
>
> I heavily modified my TR6 wiring but I carry a diagram in the glovebox.
> It comes in handy when you get to be my age.
>
>
>
> Dave
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen at gmail.com>
> To: dave <dave at ranteer.com>; list Triumph <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thu, May 2, 2019 7:16 pm
> Subject: Re: [TR] tr250 wiring
>
> I'd use the tr4 diagram.  The alternator should be pretty straightforward,
> but seldom is (unless you bought the car from Randall).
>
> I have the GM alternator on my Tr4. Output goes directly to the battery
> and bypassed the amp meter as the system can't support the full out put.
> Randall uses the amp meter with a shunt.
>
> I update my wiring diagram with any updates as I go along. Alternator,
> headlight relays, horn relays, usb charger, solid state ignition, etc.
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
>
>
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From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat May  4 15:10:32 2019
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 4 May 2019 14:10:32 -0700
Subject: [TR] Lucas alternator
In-Reply-To: <1100211E-3ADE-4160-BD9F-3DAE42554288@comcast.net>
References: <1100211E-3ADE-4160-BD9F-3DAE42554288@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <708F0A8CA1B747E19DF839A9C6FEB417@RYPC>


> With their poor ventilation, I don't see how they can manage 
> their rated output on a continuous basis.The saving grace for 
> this, is that these "35 amp" alternators are being used and 
> systems that generally will have a peak demand of no more 
> than 20-21 amps.
> 
> I think a properly maintained stock generator is perfectly 
> well suited to a stock set up in the TR 2-4A cars. 

Been a few years back, but I actually measured continuous consumption with
"stock" sealed beam headlights, heater and wipers on a previous TR3A at
around 23 amps.  That did not include brake lights nor turn signals, nor
recharging the battery.  So "peak" is actually quite a bit higher.

Up to TS60,000, the stock generator was only rated at 19 amps, so the
battery would literally run down even while driving at speed, with only the
heater, wipers and headlights on.

Plus, it takes a fair amount of juice out of the battery to start.  Even
without the heater, there is very little excess capacity to recharge the
battery, so it only takes a few short trips (like commuting 5 miles each way
to work) before the battery is too run down to start the engine.

> If you have additional power-hungry ancillaries, then a real 
> alternator that LOOKS like a real alternator will probably 
> function better and live longer than the stealth units.

That I agree with.  This time around, I found a smallish Japanese alternator
that fits the space very well (thanks to Chris "Mad" Marx).  Might look
better at home with a coat of black paint, but not too bad as-is.  And
actually easier to change the belt than with the old generator!  (I also
made no permanent mods to the car, beyond rewiring a defective control box
from the junk bin.  I preserved the repairable original generator and
control box, just in case I ever get that crazy.)
https://i.imgur.com/X4GAP8v.jpg

None of which has anything to do with the OP's question :)

Ed, you might want to check the ground strap between the engine and battery;
but it sure sounds like a dead alternator to me.

-- Randall



From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Sat May  4 20:15:34 2019
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Sun, 5 May 2019 02:15:34 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR3 gearbox and starter motor
References: <567422165.258092.1557022534455.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <567422165.258092.1557022534455@mail.yahoo.com>

longish story that dont need to be told here.but.buddy chipped a tooth on first gear in TS16810 L.we amigos had 2 trans sitting doing nothing since converting to W58's.both working when parked.?so we are just going to throw in a trans from a post 60,000 car.going to put new oil seals in front and back.i know the starters changed at some point.the center to center dimensions of the holes in the bell housing to shaft are all equal.we are not changing flywheels or the high torque starter.before i bolt this back in, do you foresee any problems?
do i recall the pin that holds the throw out bearing fork to the shaft went into a hole in the early cars but just snugged up to a flat on the later cars??thanksFrank

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From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat May  4 23:15:35 2019
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 4 May 2019 22:15:35 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 gearbox and starter motor
In-Reply-To: <567422165.258092.1557022534455@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <567422165.258092.1557022534455.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <567422165.258092.1557022534455@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <F76E944AF9044150BD349B01EE08C455@RYPC>


> we are not changing flywheels or the high torque starter.
> before i bolt this back in, do you foresee any problems?

The early tunnel will rub on the larger starter bulge.  You'll want to do
some massaging of the sheet metal to avoid that.  Or I believe a later
tunnel would fit if you have one (but you'd lose the hole for the dipstick).

The later gearbox also won't have the dipstick, which I find to be a nice
feature.  You might want to consider using the early top cover to keep the
dipstick.  It should fit the later 3A gearbox with no changes.

> do i recall the pin that holds the throw out bearing fork to 
> the shaft went into a hole in the early cars but just snugged 
> up to a flat on the later cars?

I don't think so; but maybe I'm not clear on what you are asking.  The pin
is tapered, the taper fits tightly into a matching tapered hole in the shaft
on all TR2-TR6.  It doesn't touch the flat (if any); the only contact with
the fork is the threads.

While it's apart, I suggest adding a 1/4" bolt to reinforce that joint.
Assemble the fork to the shaft outside the gearbox (make sure you turn it
the right way), then drill a hole slightly smaller than 1/4" through both
fork and shaft.  Disassemble, install the fork and shaft into the gearbox as
usual, then tap the 1/4" bolt into the hole.  Put a nut on finger-tight,
then cut off the protruding end of the bolt so it doesn't foul on the
gearbox.  Add some Loctite and torque the nut.  See
https://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/s/Clutch-Shaft.pdf
For more info as well as alternate suggestions.

-- Randall


From forzion7 at gmail.com  Sun May  5 14:36:04 2019
From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Sun, 5 May 2019 16:36:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] Battery
Message-ID: <CAJ1eQwiGc7u=vmgHaEBtr0RBYdJsHuJ46QQkOYrVDZLKpQJwFA@mail.gmail.com>

Hey List ~

Anyone have anything they can tell me about Optima batteries?
They appear to be highly rated (and fairly expensive) . Maybe
they're worth the price?

Thanks,

Dave
'59 TR3A
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From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sun May  5 14:48:57 2019
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sun, 5 May 2019 16:48:57 -0400
Subject: [TR] Battery
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwiGc7u=vmgHaEBtr0RBYdJsHuJ46QQkOYrVDZLKpQJwFA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwiGc7u=vmgHaEBtr0RBYdJsHuJ46QQkOYrVDZLKpQJwFA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <a1f36459-d32f-fc6b-f711-e58fdee2d78c@adelphia.net>

Dave,

I picked up one last year. So far so good. But over 200$. i was using 
Exide orbital but Exide decided not to sell them anymore. My last Exide 
lasted over 10 years so I am hoping the Optima is as good. Time will tell.

Bob

On 5/5/19 4:36 PM, David Friedlander wrote:
> Hey List ~
>
> Anyone have anything they can tell me about Optima batteries?
> They appear to be highly rated (and fairly expensive) . Maybe
> they're worth the price?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dave
> '59 TR3A
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr at adelphia.net
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From ryel at mac.com  Sun May  5 14:55:01 2019
From: ryel at mac.com (Rye Livingston)
Date: Sun, 05 May 2019 20:55:01 GMT
Subject: [TR] Battery
Message-ID: <fa856313-e815-40a8-97cf-89f957ef205e@me.com>

I have an Optima in my Triumph, Kubota tractor, and a 6 volt Optima in my 63 Porsche 356, so yeah I like them. ?Big plus with an AGM is no battery acid that can leak and eat through the battery box. ?I wish I could remember who told, but it was a reliable source, that Optima isn't as good as it used to be, and mentioned another brand. ?I'm not 100% positive, but I think it was the?Interstate AGM battery that was recommended. ?I've got that brand in other cars along with my camper/trailer, so I'm a big fan of that brand too.

FYI - I did find that the red top Optima is a little bit smaller than a standard battery, so I had cut a few strips of wood to add behind the battery and on each side so I could fully snug the battery down in the box.

Rye
PH: 530-FIND-RYE

On May 5, 2019 at 1:36 PM, David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com> wrote:

Hey List ~

Anyone have anything they can tell me about Optima batteries??
They appear to be highly rated (and fairly expensive) . Maybe?
they're worth the price?

Thanks,

Dave
'59 TR3A
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive

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From ryel at mac.com  Sun May  5 15:00:56 2019
From: ryel at mac.com (Rye Livingston)
Date: Sun, 05 May 2019 21:00:56 GMT
Subject: [TR] Battery
Message-ID: <cf40b669-cea7-473c-95cf-be360ead8ebe@me.com>

Prices have gone up. ?

I went back and found my Amazon order for my red top Optima battery, and it was in 2016 for $147.50. ?I hit "buy it again", and now the same battery is $237.99.

Rye


On May 5, 2019 at 1:49 PM, Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net> wrote:

Dave,
I picked up one last year. So far so good. But over 200$. i was using Exide orbital but Exide decided not to sell them anymore. My last Exide lasted over 10 years so I am hoping the Optima is as good. Time will tell. 
Bob
On 5/5/19 4:36 PM, David Friedlander wrote:
Hey List ~

Anyone have anything they can tell me about Optima batteries??
They appear to be highly rated (and fairly expensive) . Maybe?
they're worth the price?

Thanks,

Dave
'59 TR3A


** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From forzion7 at gmail.com  Sun May  5 15:02:10 2019
From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Sun, 5 May 2019 17:02:10 -0400
Subject: [TR] Battery
In-Reply-To: <cf40b669-cea7-473c-95cf-be360ead8ebe@me.com>
References: <cf40b669-cea7-473c-95cf-be360ead8ebe@me.com>
Message-ID: <CAJ1eQwhY9bJsCmGyyx0YLxi0_LBrX0Kc5XUHtbuQsTxkrd_4vg@mail.gmail.com>

Yeah, not too many prices of things are going DOWN these days....

Dave


On Sun, May 5, 2019 at 5:01 PM Rye Livingston <ryel at mac.com> wrote:

> Prices have gone up.
>
> I went back and found my Amazon order for my red top Optima battery, and
> it was in 2016 for $147.50.  I hit "buy it again", and now the same battery
> is $237.99.
>
> Rye
>
>
> On May 5, 2019 at 1:49 PM, Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net> wrote:
>
> Dave,
>
> I picked up one last year. So far so good. But over 200$. i was using
> Exide orbital but Exide decided not to sell them anymore. My last Exide
> lasted over 10 years so I am hoping the Optima is as good. Time will tell.
>
> Bob
> On 5/5/19 4:36 PM, David Friedlander wrote:
>
> Hey List ~
>
> Anyone have anything they can tell me about Optima batteries?
> They appear to be highly rated (and fairly expensive) . Maybe
> they're worth the price?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dave
> '59 TR3A
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr at adelphia.net
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
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From loumetelko at aol.com  Sun May  5 15:54:05 2019
From: loumetelko at aol.com (loumetelko at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 5 May 2019 21:54:05 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Battery
References: <2055712200.537189.1557093245025.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <2055712200.537189.1557093245025@mail.yahoo.com>



Definitely worth the price.? ?The Optima in my TR2 has been there for now 12 years!? The key to long life with virtually any battery is to hook up a battery tender for the duration of the winter storage.
Lou MetelkoAuburn, Indiana54 TR2LD



Hey List ~
Anyone have anything they can tell me about Optima batteries?
They appear to be highly rated (and fairly expensive) . Maybe
they're worth the price?
Thanks,
Dave'59 TR3A
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From spamiam at comcast.net  Sun May  5 17:19:15 2019
From: spamiam at comcast.net (Anthony Rhodes)
Date: Sun, 5 May 2019 19:19:15 -0400
Subject: [TR] [NET] Battery
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwiGc7u=vmgHaEBtr0RBYdJsHuJ46QQkOYrVDZLKpQJwFA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwiGc7u=vmgHaEBtr0RBYdJsHuJ46QQkOYrVDZLKpQJwFA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <E4830F38-0314-45FA-9A7E-4B3CF452B699@comcast.net>

I have not used an optima battery.  I think a normal battery is fine for our cars.  

I get well over 5 years of life from my normal flooded batteries. I use Interstate brand (I am not sure if the brand actually makes much difference... I think the amount of lead in the plates is the important factor: heavier and thicker is longer lived?)

And I have been lead to understand that you need to be a little careful about charging current for the optima batteries. 

-Tony

Sent from my 1837 Babbage Analytical Engine

> On May 5, 2019, at 4:36 PM, David Friedlander via NET <net at newenglandtriumphs.org> wrote:
> 
> Hey List ~
> 
> Anyone have anything they can tell me about Optima batteries? 
> They appear to be highly rated (and fairly expensive) . Maybe 
> they're worth the price?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Dave
> '59 TR3A
> _______________________________________________
> NET mailing list
> NET at newenglandtriumphs.org
> http://newenglandtriumphs.org/mailman/listinfo/net_newenglandtriumphs.org
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From wbeech at flash.net  Sun May  5 19:11:39 2019
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net)
Date: Sun, 5 May 2019 20:11:39 -0500
Subject: [TR] [NET] Battery
In-Reply-To: <E4830F38-0314-45FA-9A7E-4B3CF452B699@comcast.net>
References: <CAJ1eQwiGc7u=vmgHaEBtr0RBYdJsHuJ46QQkOYrVDZLKpQJwFA@mail.gmail.com>
 <E4830F38-0314-45FA-9A7E-4B3CF452B699@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <086841B1-8874-45FE-88F7-5B5AF0962691@flash.net>

The nice thing about Optima and other AGM batteries is they are sealed, you can lay them down if the fitting requires it.  

I agree with Tony, for most of us with occasional usage and prudent float chargers a standard $100 battery works just fine.  


On May 5, 2019, at 6:19 PM, Anthony Rhodes <spamiam at comcast.net> wrote:

I have not used an optima battery.  I think a normal battery is fine for our cars.  

I get well over 5 years of life from my normal flooded batteries. I use Interstate brand (I am not sure if the brand actually makes much difference... I think the amount of lead in the plates is the important factor: heavier and thicker is longer lived?)

And I have been lead to understand that you need to be a little careful about charging current for the optima batteries. 

-Tony

Sent from my 1837 Babbage Analytical Engine

> On May 5, 2019, at 4:36 PM, David Friedlander via NET <net at newenglandtriumphs.org> wrote:
> 
> Hey List ~
> 
> Anyone have anything they can tell me about Optima batteries? 
> They appear to be highly rated (and fairly expensive) . Maybe 
> they're worth the price?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Dave
> '59 TR3A
> _______________________________________________
> NET mailing list
> NET at newenglandtriumphs.org
> http://newenglandtriumphs.org/mailman/listinfo/net_newenglandtriumphs.org

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From forzion7 at gmail.com  Sun May  5 19:30:03 2019
From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Sun, 5 May 2019 21:30:03 -0400
Subject: [TR] [NET] Battery
In-Reply-To: <086841B1-8874-45FE-88F7-5B5AF0962691@flash.net>
References: <CAJ1eQwiGc7u=vmgHaEBtr0RBYdJsHuJ46QQkOYrVDZLKpQJwFA@mail.gmail.com>
 <E4830F38-0314-45FA-9A7E-4B3CF452B699@comcast.net>
 <086841B1-8874-45FE-88F7-5B5AF0962691@flash.net>
Message-ID: <CAJ1eQwj=9LvW0hiCeMewaRuNRKUuNvWsLQDgGiXwvBF4f5xjoA@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks to all who t responded on my Optima question.... In simplified
terms, it seems like it comes down to either $100 for a 5-year battery or
$200 for a 10- year battery...

Dave

On Sun, May 5, 2019, 9:11 PM Wbeech at flash.net <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:

> The nice thing about Optima and other AGM batteries is they are sealed,
> you can lay them down if the fitting requires it.
>
> I agree with Tony, for most of us with occasional usage and prudent float
> chargers a standard $100 battery works just fine.
>
>
> On May 5, 2019, at 6:19 PM, Anthony Rhodes <spamiam at comcast.net> wrote:
>
> I have not used an optima battery.  I think a normal battery is fine for
> our cars.
>
> I get well over 5 years of life from my normal flooded batteries. I use
> Interstate brand (I am not sure if the brand actually makes much
> difference... I think the amount of lead in the plates is the important
> factor: heavier and thicker is longer lived?)
>
> And I have been lead to understand that you need to be a little careful
> about charging current for the optima batteries.
>
> -Tony
>
> Sent from my 1837 Babbage Analytical Engine
>
> On May 5, 2019, at 4:36 PM, David Friedlander via NET <
> net at newenglandtriumphs.org> wrote:
>
> Hey List ~
>
> Anyone have anything they can tell me about Optima batteries?
> They appear to be highly rated (and fairly expensive) . Maybe
> they're worth the price?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dave
> '59 TR3A
>
> _______________________________________________
> NET mailing list
> NET at newenglandtriumphs.org
> http://newenglandtriumphs.org/mailman/listinfo/net_newenglandtriumphs.org
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From dave at ranteer.com  Sun May  5 19:56:11 2019
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Sun, 5 May 2019 20:56:11 -0500
Subject: [TR] [NET] Battery
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwj=9LvW0hiCeMewaRuNRKUuNvWsLQDgGiXwvBF4f5xjoA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwiGc7u=vmgHaEBtr0RBYdJsHuJ46QQkOYrVDZLKpQJwFA@mail.gmail.com>
 <E4830F38-0314-45FA-9A7E-4B3CF452B699@comcast.net>
 <086841B1-8874-45FE-88F7-5B5AF0962691@flash.net>
 <CAJ1eQwj=9LvW0hiCeMewaRuNRKUuNvWsLQDgGiXwvBF4f5xjoA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <003901d503ae$e1cf7500$a56e5f00$@ranteer.com>

Here?s a slight twist ? after lifting those darn heavy batteries in and out of LBC?s for years, I got tired of straining my back, reaching into the middle of the car.

 

I now buy a battery for a 89 Miata.  Much smaller and lighter and available pretty much anywhere.  I have experienced NO issues or problems, and have them in several cars for numerous years.  I also buy a Lucas sticker for them . . . 

 

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of David Friedlander
Sent: Sunday, May 5, 2019 8:30 PM
To: wbeech at flash.net
Cc: TR3 Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>; New England Triumphs <net at newenglandtriumphs.org>; Anthony Rhodes <spamiam at comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] [NET] Battery

 

Thanks to all who t responded on my Optima question.... In simplified terms, it seems like it comes down to either $100 for a 5-year battery or $200 for a 10- year battery...

 

Dave

 

On Sun, May 5, 2019, 9:11 PM Wbeech at flash.net <mailto:Wbeech at flash.net>  <wbeech at flash.net <mailto:wbeech at flash.net> > wrote:

The nice thing about Optima and other AGM batteries is they are sealed, you can lay them down if the fitting requires it.  

 

I agree with Tony, for most of us with occasional usage and prudent float chargers a standard $100 battery works just fine.  

 

 

On May 5, 2019, at 6:19 PM, Anthony Rhodes <spamiam at comcast.net <mailto:spamiam at comcast.net> > wrote:

I have not used an optima battery.  I think a normal battery is fine for our cars.  

 

I get well over 5 years of life from my normal flooded batteries. I use Interstate brand (I am not sure if the brand actually makes much difference... I think the amount of lead in the plates is the important factor: heavier and thicker is longer lived?)

 

And I have been lead to understand that you need to be a little careful about charging current for the optima batteries. 

 

-Tony


Sent from my 1837 Babbage Analytical Engine


On May 5, 2019, at 4:36 PM, David Friedlander via NET <net at newenglandtriumphs.org <mailto:net at newenglandtriumphs.org> > wrote:

Hey List ~

 

Anyone have anything they can tell me about Optima batteries? 

They appear to be highly rated (and fairly expensive) . Maybe 

they're worth the price?

 

Thanks,

 

Dave

'59 TR3A

_______________________________________________
NET mailing list
NET at newenglandtriumphs.org <mailto:NET at newenglandtriumphs.org> 
http://newenglandtriumphs.org/mailman/listinfo/net_newenglandtriumphs.org

** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>  **

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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From trhouse at columbus.rr.com  Sun May  5 23:06:05 2019
From: trhouse at columbus.rr.com (Tom Householder)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2019 01:06:05 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR2 build dates
Message-ID: <0F192220-C6F2-46E4-A76B-621438FA02D8@columbus.rr.com>

TS 5433 O, TR2 ENGINE TS 5723E

Looking for a build date of a TR2 with an Engine Number around TS 5999 E

Tom
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From wbeech at flash.net  Mon May  6 00:22:44 2019
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2019 01:22:44 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR2 build dates
In-Reply-To: <0F192220-C6F2-46E4-A76B-621438FA02D8@columbus.rr.com>
References: <0F192220-C6F2-46E4-A76B-621438FA02D8@columbus.rr.com>
Message-ID: <5C9AA808-1F26-416B-8D20-47A7810C267C@flash.net>

Around spring if 1955. 

Bill

Sent from my DynaTAC 8000X

On May 6, 2019, at 12:06 AM, Tom Householder <trhouse at columbus.rr.com> wrote:

TS 5433 O, TR2 ENGINE TS 5723E

Looking for a build date of a TR2 with an Engine Number around TS 5999 E

Tom
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive

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From gandcanderson at comcast.net  Mon May  6 07:46:31 2019
From: gandcanderson at comcast.net (GLENN ANDERSON)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2019 08:46:31 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] TR2 build dates
In-Reply-To: <5C9AA808-1F26-416B-8D20-47A7810C267C@flash.net>
References: <0F192220-C6F2-46E4-A76B-621438FA02D8@columbus.rr.com>
 <5C9AA808-1F26-416B-8D20-47A7810C267C@flash.net>
Message-ID: <1084415121.35697.1557150391717@connect.xfinity.com>

Tom,

I agree with what Bill said. I have a 1955 TR2 #TS6661 which has a build date of early June. So your car being about 1200 cars ahead of mine would put the build date most likely in the spring of 1955.

Glenn


> On May 6, 2019 at 1:22 AM "Wbeech at flash.net" <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:
> 
>     Around spring if 1955. 
> 
>     Bill
> 
>     Sent from my DynaTAC 8000X
> 
>     On May 6, 2019, at 12:06 AM, Tom Householder < trhouse at columbus.rr.com mailto:trhouse at columbus.rr.com > wrote:
> 
>     TS 5433 O, TR2 ENGINE TS 5723E
> 
>     Looking for a build date of a TR2 with an Engine Number around TS 5999 E
> 
>     Tom
>     ** triumphs at autox.team.net mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
>     Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net
> 
 

> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
> 
>     Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/gandcanderson at comcast.net
> 
 
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From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Mon May  6 11:26:08 2019
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2019 10:26:08 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR2 build dates
In-Reply-To: <0F192220-C6F2-46E4-A76B-621438FA02D8@columbus.rr.com>
References: <0F192220-C6F2-46E4-A76B-621438FA02D8@columbus.rr.com>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bGT-wSi28j5hkLw62g1d9U_+eHXrQFsxY5w-U5LOPPiVg@mail.gmail.com>

On Sun, May 5, 2019 at 10:06 PM Tom Householder <trhouse at columbus.rr.com>
wrote:

> TS 5433 O, TR2 ENGINE TS 5723E
>

Is this the 'Harrahs' TR2?

Geo
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From terryrs at comcast.net  Tue May  7 13:58:16 2019
From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2019 15:58:16 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Love Hate
Message-ID: <807882909.94056.1557259097283@connect.xfinity.com>

Yesterday took a 45 minute drive to coach my grandson's 1st and 2nd grade baseball team.  From the start, the TR3 had engine flutters, which would clear up intermittently, then return.  Sometimes it had plenty of power, other times it stumbled.  


Sounds electrical, but I'd just replaced the carbs with rebuilt ones.  Maybe the float bowl was overloading and flooding?  Maybe the electric fuel pump had changed values and pushed too much fuel pressure?  Maybe an electrical short somwhere?  Maybe a fuel filter needed changing?  Endless possibilities.


Popped the hood today, checked the wires I'd touched over the winter.  Seemed solid.  Removed the air filters, then went to test the piston travel, when I noticed the cap to the venturi had come completely loose.  No oil dampening whatsoever.  Always went just finger tight on those, but will now use a wrench to lightly snug them down.  Just test drove it, smooth as silk, though I'll cautiously not proclaim a cure until the next trip to Rookie League tomorrow.  


I hate it when that happens.  But I love it when the solution is so simple and quick.  


BTW:  nearly into Concord, a Statie came flying up behind me, lights flashing.  I pulled to the shoulder, let him by.  Good little boy.  Got to the ball field, came back to the car for something, and saw the flat tire in the back.  Three quarter inch piece of wood piercing the rubber.  Tire ruined.  


Never never never use the shoulder of the road!


Terry Smith, '59 TR3A  TS 58667

New Hampshire
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From dlhogye at comcast.net  Wed May  8 07:59:22 2019
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE)
Date: Wed, 8 May 2019 06:59:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR2 build dates
In-Reply-To: <CANzE1bGT-wSi28j5hkLw62g1d9U_+eHXrQFsxY5w-U5LOPPiVg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <0F192220-C6F2-46E4-A76B-621438FA02D8@columbus.rr.com>
 <CANzE1bGT-wSi28j5hkLw62g1d9U_+eHXrQFsxY5w-U5LOPPiVg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <372771265.972.1557323963165@connect.xfinity.com>

Hello All,

I saw these build date inquiries and thought I'd chime in.

I have a longdoor TR2 built in June 14 of '54.  TS2172LO, engine TS2313E.  

Dave H.

> On May 6, 2019 at 10:26 AM Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
>     On Sun, May 5, 2019 at 10:06 PM Tom Householder < trhouse at columbus.rr.com mailto:trhouse at columbus.rr.com > wrote:
> 
>         > >         TS 5433 O, TR2 ENGINE TS 5723E
> > 
> >     > 
>     Is this the 'Harrahs' TR2?
> 
>     Geo 
>     ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
> 
>     Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye at comcast.net
> 
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From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca  Tue May 14 13:25:23 2019
From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (Art McEwen)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2019 15:25:23 -0400
Subject: [TR] Is the worm mightier than the peg?
In-Reply-To: <73e088fb68928.5cdb1613@cgocable.ca>
References: <7330d4556e5b3.5cdb155e@cgocable.ca>
 <726080e369c94.5cdb159b@cgocable.ca>
 <7310ad9668f98.5cdb15d7@cgocable.ca>
 <73e088fb68928.5cdb1613@cgocable.ca>
Message-ID: <73e0836d6e6c1.5cdadde3@cgocable.ca>

I've told myself I'm going to eliminate the play from my steering box this season. I've already got a new rockershaft with peg, I'm hoping/wishing based on the parts price that the peg is the part that wears (along with the bushing) and that the worm cam is made of harder stuff?

Is that what others have found?


Thanks


TR3A
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From stan at redtr6.com  Tue May 14 13:51:36 2019
From: stan at redtr6.com (Stan Foster)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2019 19:51:36 +0000
Subject: [TR] Is the worm mightier than the peg?
In-Reply-To: <73e0836d6e6c1.5cdadde3@cgocable.ca>
References: <7330d4556e5b3.5cdb155e@cgocable.ca>
 <726080e369c94.5cdb159b@cgocable.ca> <7310ad9668f98.5cdb15d7@cgocable.ca>
 <73e088fb68928.5cdb1613@cgocable.ca> <73e0836d6e6c1.5cdadde3@cgocable.ca>
Message-ID: <BN8PR05MB66924FF79A67FF61C18DA00AFE080@BN8PR05MB6692.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>

I believe that yes, the peg is the bit that wears the fastest and can be rotated to allow a non-worn surface to engage with the worm gear.

Stan

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Art McEwen
Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2019 3:25 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Is the worm mightier than the peg?

I've told myself I'm going to eliminate the play from my steering box this season.   I've already got a new rockershaft with peg,  I'm hoping/wishing based on the parts price that the peg is the part that wears (along with the bushing) and that the worm cam is made of harder stuff?

Is that what others have found?

Thanks

TR3A
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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue May 14 14:11:53 2019
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2019 13:11:53 -0700
Subject: [TR] Is the worm mightier than the peg?
In-Reply-To: <73e0836d6e6c1.5cdadde3@cgocable.ca>
References: <7330d4556e5b3.5cdb155e@cgocable.ca>
 <726080e369c94.5cdb159b@cgocable.ca> <7310ad9668f98.5cdb15d7@cgocable.ca>
 <73e088fb68928.5cdb1613@cgocable.ca> <73e0836d6e6c1.5cdadde3@cgocable.ca>
Message-ID: <314A7BA3-DAED-4789-920B-24C3926FF749@ca.rr.com>

The peg no doubt wears quicker, but the worm still wears.
The one in my TR3A was worn in the center until there were two tight spots, one on each side (and it was still loose in the middle) even with a new peg.
-- Randall

On 14 May 2019 12:25:23 GMT-07:00, Art McEwen <amcewen2 at cogeco.ca> wrote:
>I've told myself I'm going to eliminate the play from my steering box
>this season. I've already got a new rockershaft with peg, I'm
>hoping/wishing based on the parts price that the peg is the part that
>wears (along with the bushing) and that the worm cam is made of harder
>stuff?
>
>Is that what others have found?
>
>
>Thanks
>
>
>TR3A
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From terryrs at comcast.net  Tue May 14 18:12:11 2019
From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2019 20:12:11 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Is the worm mightier than the peg?
In-Reply-To: <314A7BA3-DAED-4789-920B-24C3926FF749@ca.rr.com>
References: <7330d4556e5b3.5cdb155e@cgocable.ca>
 <726080e369c94.5cdb159b@cgocable.ca> <7310ad9668f98.5cdb15d7@cgocable.ca>
 <73e088fb68928.5cdb1613@cgocable.ca> <73e0836d6e6c1.5cdadde3@cgocable.ca>
 <314A7BA3-DAED-4789-920B-24C3926FF749@ca.rr.com>
Message-ID: <572364660.87553.1557879135147@connect.xfinity.com>

For what it's worth, I rebuilt the box a few years back.  Only real complicated part seemed to be getting the worm on the steering rod.  Machine shop did that.  


Terry

> On May 14, 2019 at 4:11 PM Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
> 
>     The peg no doubt wears quicker, but the worm still wears.
>     The one in my TR3A was worn in the center until there were two tight spots, one on each side (and it was still loose in the middle) even with a new peg.
>     -- Randall
> 
>     On 14 May 2019 12:25:23 GMT-07:00, Art McEwen <amcewen2 at cogeco.ca> wrote:
> 
>         > > I've told myself I'm going to eliminate the play from my steering box this season.   I've already got a new rockershaft with peg,  I'm hoping/wishing based on the parts price that the peg is the part that wears (along with the bushing) and that the worm cam is made of harder stuff?
> > 
> >         Is that what others have found?
> > 
> >         Thanks
> > 
> >         TR3A
> > 
> >     > 


 

> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
> 
>     Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at comcast.net
> 


 
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From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Tue May 14 19:07:40 2019
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (nafzigerg at yahoo.com)
Date: Wed, 15 May 2019 01:07:40 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] HORN BUTTON
References: <1337003877.807811.1557882460394.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1337003877.807811.1557882460394@mail.yahoo.com>

Sir,I have not been receiving messaged from this list and would like to keep getting them.
Also, I have problems with my horn button.? I don't seem to have a way to keep the button back in the center of the wheel.? Does the button have to be pressed inside the rubber that surrounds it.? I know there are clips to hold it in but I don't see how these will help.
gary n.
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From stan at redtr6.com  Tue May 14 19:27:21 2019
From: stan at redtr6.com (Stan Foster)
Date: Wed, 15 May 2019 01:27:21 +0000
Subject: [TR] HORN BUTTON
In-Reply-To: <1337003877.807811.1557882460394@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1337003877.807811.1557882460394.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1337003877.807811.1557882460394@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BN8PR05MB66926812B92CCFED0D2EBC51FE090@BN8PR05MB6692.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>

I assume this is for the TR6 ?. My 1974 TR6 horn push has a single sprung bar about 1 inch long on the side of the horn push assembly that retains it inside the hub of the steering wheel. I have to depress the bar slightly to get the horn into the hub. The wide rubber ring is just a trim piece.

Stan

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of nafzigerg at yahoo.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2019 9:08 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] HORN BUTTON

Sir,
I have not been receiving messaged from this list and would like to keep getting them.

Also, I have problems with my horn button.  I don't seem to have a way to keep the button back in the center of the wheel.  Does the button have to be pressed inside the rubber that surrounds it.  I know there are clips to hold it in but I don't see how these will help.

gary n.
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From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca  Tue May 14 20:11:33 2019
From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (Art McEwen)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2019 22:11:33 -0400
Subject: [TR] Is the worm mightier than the peg?
In-Reply-To: <314A7BA3-DAED-4789-920B-24C3926FF749@ca.rr.com>
Message-ID: <805f5ec8-da2c-4317-ae0a-be41eddd47fb@email.android.com>

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From terryrs at comcast.net  Wed May 15 19:41:10 2019
From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH)
Date: Wed, 15 May 2019 21:41:10 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Pertronix Failure?
In-Reply-To: <314A7BA3-DAED-4789-920B-24C3926FF749@ca.rr.com>
References: <7330d4556e5b3.5cdb155e@cgocable.ca>
 <726080e369c94.5cdb159b@cgocable.ca> <7310ad9668f98.5cdb15d7@cgocable.ca>
 <73e088fb68928.5cdb1613@cgocable.ca> <73e0836d6e6c1.5cdadde3@cgocable.ca>
 <314A7BA3-DAED-4789-920B-24C3926FF749@ca.rr.com>
Message-ID: <743141029.83335.1557970870557@connect.xfinity.com>

Okay, so I was wrong.  I thought the intermittent engine miss on the TR3 had to do with a dislodged damper on the forward carb.  Test drive said no, engine still stumbled, cleared, stumbled again.  Changed fuel filters out because they were due anyway.  Problem persisted.  Checked the floats movements, all fine.  Problem persisted.  Finally just swapped the carbs entirely with spares that I knew worked, problem persisted.  So...not fuel.  If it were valves, it wouldn't be intermittent, unless a valve were sticking, right?  


Next up assumption is it's electrical.  Swapped the distributor, wires and rotor with spares I knew worked.  Problem persisted.  Checked for potential electrical shorts.  Nothing obvious.  Yeesh!


I run a Pertronix.  Went online and read about Pertronix troubleshooting.  Piece I read mentioned that the trigger magnet that spins on the rotor can come loose and affect the timing.  I checked this and LO!  The trigger magnet is indeed loose.  I seem to remember when I put it on some eight or nine years ago, that it went on tight.  But it now wiggles about an eighth of an inch back and forth, maybe a bit more.  


So question.  Do I remember correctly, it's supposed to be tight?  And second, what would cause it to come loose over time?


I know it could still be a sticking valve, but this first.  Thanks, everyone for patience with this long message.


Terry Smith, '59 TR3A

New Hampshire
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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed May 15 20:45:05 2019
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 15 May 2019 19:45:05 -0700
Subject: [TR] Pertronix Failure?
In-Reply-To: <743141029.83335.1557970870557@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <7330d4556e5b3.5cdb155e@cgocable.ca>
 <726080e369c94.5cdb159b@cgocable.ca> <7310ad9668f98.5cdb15d7@cgocable.ca>
 <73e088fb68928.5cdb1613@cgocable.ca> <73e0836d6e6c1.5cdadde3@cgocable.ca>
 <314A7BA3-DAED-4789-920B-24C3926FF749@ca.rr.com>
 <743141029.83335.1557970870557@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <607E0414-0C93-440B-8E0A-DAAC81886783@ca.rr.com>

Well, maybe. Is it loose on the point can? Or does the point cam just turn back and forth a bit?
Or does the whole mess move side to side?

It normal for the point cam to be able to turn slightly. But there should be no side to side play; and the plastic piece should be tight on the point cam.

Side play is usually a sign of wear in the shaft bushing. If the plastic piece is loose, its probably just time, heat and vibration vs cheap plastic.
-- Randall

On 15 May 2019 18:41:10 GMT-07:00, TERRY SMITH <terryrs at comcast.net> wrote:
>Okay, so I was wrong.  I thought the intermittent engine miss on the
>TR3 had to do with a dislodged damper on the forward carb.  Test drive
>said no, engine still stumbled, cleared, stumbled again.  Changed fuel
>filters out because they were due anyway.  Problem persisted.  Checked
>the floats movements, all fine.  Problem persisted.  Finally just
>swapped the carbs entirely with spares that I knew worked, problem
>persisted.  So...not fuel.  If it were valves, it wouldn't be
>intermittent, unless a valve were sticking, right?  
>
>
>Next up assumption is it's electrical.  Swapped the distributor, wires
>and rotor with spares I knew worked.  Problem persisted.  Checked for
>potential electrical shorts.  Nothing obvious.  Yeesh!
>
>
>I run a Pertronix.  Went online and read about Pertronix
>troubleshooting.  Piece I read mentioned that the trigger magnet that
>spins on the rotor can come loose and affect the timing.  I checked
>this and LO!  The trigger magnet is indeed loose.  I seem to remember
>when I put it on some eight or nine years ago, that it went on tight. 
>But it now wiggles about an eighth of an inch back and forth, maybe a
>bit more.  
>
>
>So question.  Do I remember correctly, it's supposed to be tight?  And
>second, what would cause it to come loose over time?
>
>
>I know it could still be a sticking valve, but this first.  Thanks,
>everyone for patience with this long message.
>
>
>Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
>
>New Hampshire
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From kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Wed May 15 20:54:12 2019
From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer)
Date: Wed, 15 May 2019 19:54:12 -0700
Subject: [TR] Pertronix Failure?
In-Reply-To: <607E0414-0C93-440B-8E0A-DAAC81886783@ca.rr.com>
References: <7330d4556e5b3.5cdb155e@cgocable.ca>
 <726080e369c94.5cdb159b@cgocable.ca> <7310ad9668f98.5cdb15d7@cgocable.ca>
 <73e088fb68928.5cdb1613@cgocable.ca> <73e0836d6e6c1.5cdadde3@cgocable.ca>
 <314A7BA3-DAED-4789-920B-24C3926FF749@ca.rr.com>
 <743141029.83335.1557970870557@connect.xfinity.com>
 <607E0414-0C93-440B-8E0A-DAAC81886783@ca.rr.com>
Message-ID: <00b501d50b92$a4b7fe30$ee27fa90$@net>

I?ve had 2 of them fail with the magnets in the collar getting all askew. Doesn?t run well like that.

 

Bob

 

From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2019 7:45 PM
To: TERRY SMITH; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Pertronix Failure?

 

Well, maybe. Is it loose on the point can? Or does the point cam just turn back and forth a bit?
Or does the whole mess move side to side?

It normal for the point cam to be able to turn slightly. But there should be no side to side play; and the plastic piece should be tight on the point cam.

Side play is usually a sign of wear in the shaft bushing. If the plastic piece is loose, its probably just time, heat and vibration vs cheap plastic.
-- Randall

On 15 May 2019 18:41:10 GMT-07:00, TERRY SMITH <terryrs at comcast.net> wrote:

Okay, so I was wrong.  I thought the intermittent engine miss on the TR3 had to do with a dislodged damper on the forward carb.  Test drive said no, engine still stumbled, cleared, stumbled again.  Changed fuel filters out because they were due anyway.  Problem persisted.  Checked the floats movements, all fine.  Problem persisted.  Finally just swapped the carbs entirely with spares that I knew worked, problem persisted.  So...not fuel.  If it were valves, it wouldn't be intermittent, unless a valve were sticking, right?  

 

Next up assumption is it's electrical.  Swapped the distributor, wires and rotor with spares I knew worked.  Problem persisted.  Checked for potential electrical shorts.  Nothing obvious.  Yeesh!

 

I run a Pertronix.  Went online and read about Pertronix troubleshooting.  Piece I read mentioned that the trigger magnet that spins on the rotor can come loose and affect the timing.  I checked this and LO!  The trigger magnet is indeed loose.  I seem to remember when I put it on some eight or nine years ago, that it went on tight.  But it now wiggles about an eighth of an inch back and forth, maybe a bit more.  

 

So question.  Do I remember correctly, it's supposed to be tight?  And second, what would cause it to come loose over time?

 

I know it could still be a sticking valve, but this first.  Thanks, everyone for patience with this long message.

 

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A

New Hampshire

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From terryrs at comcast.net  Wed May 15 20:56:58 2019
From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH)
Date: Wed, 15 May 2019 22:56:58 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Pertronix Failure?
In-Reply-To: <607E0414-0C93-440B-8E0A-DAAC81886783@ca.rr.com>
References: <7330d4556e5b3.5cdb155e@cgocable.ca>
 <726080e369c94.5cdb159b@cgocable.ca> <7310ad9668f98.5cdb15d7@cgocable.ca>
 <73e088fb68928.5cdb1613@cgocable.ca> <73e0836d6e6c1.5cdadde3@cgocable.ca>
 <314A7BA3-DAED-4789-920B-24C3926FF749@ca.rr.com>
 <743141029.83335.1557970870557@connect.xfinity.com>
 <607E0414-0C93-440B-8E0A-DAAC81886783@ca.rr.com>
Message-ID: <1346635184.85031.1557975418749@connect.xfinity.com>

Yep, Randall.  The plastic piece that rides on the distributor cam plays side to side.  I suspect that you're right, the heat and vibration wore the plastic.


> On May 15, 2019 at 10:45 PM Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
> 
>     Well, maybe. Is it loose on the point can? Or does the point cam just turn back and forth a bit?
>     Or does the whole mess move side to side?
> 
>     It normal for the point cam to be able to turn slightly. But there should be no side to side play; and the plastic piece should be tight on the point cam.
> 
>     Side play is usually a sign of wear in the shaft bushing. If the plastic piece is loose, its probably just time, heat and vibration vs cheap plastic.
>     -- Randall
> 
>     On 15 May 2019 18:41:10 GMT-07:00, TERRY SMITH <terryrs at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
>         > > 
> >         Okay, so I was wrong.  I thought the intermittent engine miss on the TR3 had to do with a dislodged damper on the forward carb.  Test drive said no, engine still stumbled, cleared, stumbled again.  Changed fuel filters out because they were due anyway.  Problem persisted.  Checked the floats movements, all fine.  Problem persisted.  Finally just swapped the carbs entirely with spares that I knew worked, problem persisted.  So...not fuel.  If it were valves, it wouldn't be intermittent, unless a valve were sticking, right?  
> > 
> > 
> >         Next up assumption is it's electrical.  Swapped the distributor, wires and rotor with spares I knew worked.  Problem persisted.  Checked for potential electrical shorts.  Nothing obvious.  Yeesh!
> > 
> > 
> >         I run a Pertronix.  Went online and read about Pertronix troubleshooting.  Piece I read mentioned that the trigger magnet that spins on the rotor can come loose and affect the timing.  I checked this and LO!  The trigger magnet is indeed loose.  I seem to remember when I put it on some eight or nine years ago, that it went on tight.  But it now wiggles about an eighth of an inch back and forth, maybe a bit more.  
> > 
> > 
> >         So question.  Do I remember correctly, it's supposed to be tight?  And second, what would cause it to come loose over time?
> > 
> > 
> >         I know it could still be a sticking valve, but this first.  Thanks, everyone for patience with this long message.
> > 
> > 
> >         Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
> > 
> >         New Hampshire
> > 
> >     > 


 

> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
> 
>     Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at comcast.net
> 


 
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From terryrs at comcast.net  Wed May 15 20:57:55 2019
From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH)
Date: Wed, 15 May 2019 22:57:55 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Pertronix Failure?
In-Reply-To: <00b501d50b92$a4b7fe30$ee27fa90$@net>
References: <7330d4556e5b3.5cdb155e@cgocable.ca>
 <726080e369c94.5cdb159b@cgocable.ca> <7310ad9668f98.5cdb15d7@cgocable.ca>
 <73e088fb68928.5cdb1613@cgocable.ca> <73e0836d6e6c1.5cdadde3@cgocable.ca>
 <314A7BA3-DAED-4789-920B-24C3926FF749@ca.rr.com>
 <743141029.83335.1557970870557@connect.xfinity.com>
 <607E0414-0C93-440B-8E0A-DAAC81886783@ca.rr.com>
 <00b501d50b92$a4b7fe30$ee27fa90$@net>
Message-ID: <77144944.85047.1557975478073@connect.xfinity.com>

Thanks, Bob.  That's my read as well.  I'll report if the replacement I've ordered from BP North doesn't fix it.

> On May 15, 2019 at 10:54 PM Kinderlehrer <kinderlehrer at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> 
>     I?ve had 2 of them fail with the magnets in the collar getting all askew. Doesn?t run well like that.
> 
>      
> 
>     Bob
> 
>      
> 
>     From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall
>     Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2019 7:45 PM
>     To: TERRY SMITH; triumphs at autox.team.net
>     Subject: Re: [TR] Pertronix Failure?
> 
>      
> 
>     Well, maybe. Is it loose on the point can? Or does the point cam just turn back and forth a bit?
>     Or does the whole mess move side to side?
> 
>     It normal for the point cam to be able to turn slightly. But there should be no side to side play; and the plastic piece should be tight on the point cam.
> 
>     Side play is usually a sign of wear in the shaft bushing. If the plastic piece is loose, its probably just time, heat and vibration vs cheap plastic.
>     -- Randall
> 
>     On 15 May 2019 18:41:10 GMT-07:00, TERRY SMITH <terryrs at comcast.net mailto:terryrs at comcast.net > wrote:
> 
>     Okay, so I was wrong.  I thought the intermittent engine miss on the TR3 had to do with a dislodged damper on the forward carb.  Test drive said no, engine still stumbled, cleared, stumbled again.  Changed fuel filters out because they were due anyway.  Problem persisted.  Checked the floats movements, all fine.  Problem persisted.  Finally just swapped the carbs entirely with spares that I knew worked, problem persisted.  So...not fuel.  If it were valves, it wouldn't be intermittent, unless a valve were sticking, right?  
> 
>      
> 
>     Next up assumption is it's electrical.  Swapped the distributor, wires and rotor with spares I knew worked.  Problem persisted.  Checked for potential electrical shorts.  Nothing obvious.  Yeesh!
> 
>      
> 
>     I run a Pertronix.  Went online and read about Pertronix troubleshooting.  Piece I read mentioned that the trigger magnet that spins on the rotor can come loose and affect the timing.  I checked this and LO!  The trigger magnet is indeed loose.  I seem to remember when I put it on some eight or nine years ago, that it went on tight.  But it now wiggles about an eighth of an inch back and forth, maybe a bit more.  
> 
>      
> 
>     So question.  Do I remember correctly, it's supposed to be tight?  And second, what would cause it to come loose over time?
> 
>      
> 
>     I know it could still be a sticking valve, but this first.  Thanks, everyone for patience with this long message.
> 
>      
> 
>     Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
> 
>     New Hampshire
> 


 
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From dlhogye at comcast.net  Wed May 15 21:55:26 2019
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE)
Date: Wed, 15 May 2019 20:55:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Pertronix Failure?
In-Reply-To: <77144944.85047.1557975478073@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <7330d4556e5b3.5cdb155e@cgocable.ca>
 <726080e369c94.5cdb159b@cgocable.ca> <7310ad9668f98.5cdb15d7@cgocable.ca>
 <73e088fb68928.5cdb1613@cgocable.ca> <73e0836d6e6c1.5cdadde3@cgocable.ca>
 <314A7BA3-DAED-4789-920B-24C3926FF749@ca.rr.com>
 <743141029.83335.1557970870557@connect.xfinity.com>
 <607E0414-0C93-440B-8E0A-DAAC81886783@ca.rr.com>
 <00b501d50b92$a4b7fe30$ee27fa90$@net>
 <77144944.85047.1557975478073@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <385311628.61548.1557978926956@connect.xfinity.com>

I always refer distributor issues to Jeff at Advanced Distributors.  He knows distributors for British cars like no one else.  His work and rebuilds are perfect.  Either points or Pertronix.

I don't have direct contact info handy, but Advanced Distributors is easy to find.  

Thanks for sharing what you have found.  I'll check mine asap.  I've been wanting to send Jeff a couple distributors to have a couple spares, one points and one Pertronix.  I also have 2 other cars that will need fresh distributors eventually.  

Dave H.

> On May 15, 2019 at 7:57 PM TERRY SMITH <terryrs at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> 
>     Thanks, Bob.  That's my read as well.  I'll report if the replacement I've ordered from BP North doesn't fix it.
> 
>         > > On May 15, 2019 at 10:54 PM Kinderlehrer <kinderlehrer at comcast.net> wrote:
> > 
> > 
> >         I?ve had 2 of them fail with the magnets in the collar getting all askew. Doesn?t run well like that.
> > 
> >          
> > 
> >         Bob
> > 
> >          
> > 
> >         From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall
> >         Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2019 7:45 PM
> >         To: TERRY SMITH; triumphs at autox.team.net
> >         Subject: Re: [TR] Pertronix Failure?
> > 
> >          
> > 
> >         Well, maybe. Is it loose on the point can? Or does the point cam just turn back and forth a bit?
> >         Or does the whole mess move side to side?
> > 
> >         It normal for the point cam to be able to turn slightly. But there should be no side to side play; and the plastic piece should be tight on the point cam.
> > 
> >         Side play is usually a sign of wear in the shaft bushing. If the plastic piece is loose, its probably just time, heat and vibration vs cheap plastic.
> >         -- Randall
> > 
> >         On 15 May 2019 18:41:10 GMT-07:00, TERRY SMITH <terryrs at comcast.net mailto:terryrs at comcast.net > wrote:
> > 
> >         Okay, so I was wrong.  I thought the intermittent engine miss on the TR3 had to do with a dislodged damper on the forward carb.  Test drive said no, engine still stumbled, cleared, stumbled again.  Changed fuel filters out because they were due anyway.  Problem persisted.  Checked the floats movements, all fine.  Problem persisted.  Finally just swapped the carbs entirely with spares that I knew worked, problem persisted.  So...not fuel.  If it were valves, it wouldn't be intermittent, unless a valve were sticking, right?  
> > 
> >          
> > 
> >         Next up assumption is it's electrical.  Swapped the distributor, wires and rotor with spares I knew worked.  Problem persisted.  Checked for potential electrical shorts.  Nothing obvious.  Yeesh!
> > 
> >          
> > 
> >         I run a Pertronix.  Went online and read about Pertronix troubleshooting.  Piece I read mentioned that the trigger magnet that spins on the rotor can come loose and affect the timing.  I checked this and LO!  The trigger magnet is indeed loose.  I seem to remember when I put it on some eight or nine years ago, that it went on tight.  But it now wiggles about an eighth of an inch back and forth, maybe a bit more.  
> > 
> >          
> > 
> >         So question.  Do I remember correctly, it's supposed to be tight?  And second, what would cause it to come loose over time?
> > 
> >          
> > 
> >         I know it could still be a sticking valve, but this first.  Thanks, everyone for patience with this long message.
> > 
> >          
> > 
> >         Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
> > 
> >         New Hampshire
> > 
> >     > 
> 
>      
> 


 

> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
> 
>     Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye at comcast.net
> 


 
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From terryrs at comcast.net  Thu May 16 07:16:50 2019
From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH)
Date: Thu, 16 May 2019 09:16:50 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Pertronix Failure?
In-Reply-To: <385311628.61548.1557978926956@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <7330d4556e5b3.5cdb155e@cgocable.ca>
 <726080e369c94.5cdb159b@cgocable.ca> <7310ad9668f98.5cdb15d7@cgocable.ca>
 <73e088fb68928.5cdb1613@cgocable.ca> <73e0836d6e6c1.5cdadde3@cgocable.ca>
 <314A7BA3-DAED-4789-920B-24C3926FF749@ca.rr.com>
 <743141029.83335.1557970870557@connect.xfinity.com>
 <607E0414-0C93-440B-8E0A-DAAC81886783@ca.rr.com>
 <00b501d50b92$a4b7fe30$ee27fa90$@net>
 <77144944.85047.1557975478073@connect.xfinity.com>
 <385311628.61548.1557978926956@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <1438901372.90648.1558012610385@connect.xfinity.com>

Hi, Dave.  Yes, he did the rebuild on the 25D dizzy I'm running now.  It's a points distributor with a Pertronix modification, so luckily don't have to deal with the entire distributor.  And agree, he does good work.  

> On May 15, 2019 at 11:55 PM DAVE HOGYE <dlhogye at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> 
>     I always refer distributor issues to Jeff at Advanced Distributors.  He knows distributors for British cars like no one else.  His work and rebuilds are perfect.  Either points or Pertronix.
> 
>     I don't have direct contact info handy, but Advanced Distributors is easy to find.  
> 
>     Thanks for sharing what you have found.  I'll check mine asap.  I've been wanting to send Jeff a couple distributors to have a couple spares, one points and one Pertronix.  I also have 2 other cars that will need fresh distributors eventually.  
> 
>     Dave H.
> 
>         > > On May 15, 2019 at 7:57 PM TERRY SMITH <terryrs at comcast.net> wrote:
> > 
> > 
> >         Thanks, Bob.  That's my read as well.  I'll report if the replacement I've ordered from BP North doesn't fix it.
> > 
> >             > > > On May 15, 2019 at 10:54 PM Kinderlehrer <kinderlehrer at comcast.net> wrote:
> > > 
> > > 
> > >             I?ve had 2 of them fail with the magnets in the collar getting all askew. Doesn?t run well like that.
> > > 
> > >              
> > > 
> > >             Bob
> > > 
> > >              
> > > 
> > >             From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall
> > >             Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2019 7:45 PM
> > >             To: TERRY SMITH; triumphs at autox.team.net
> > >             Subject: Re: [TR] Pertronix Failure?
> > > 
> > >              
> > > 
> > >             Well, maybe. Is it loose on the point can? Or does the point cam just turn back and forth a bit?
> > >             Or does the whole mess move side to side?
> > > 
> > >             It normal for the point cam to be able to turn slightly. But there should be no side to side play; and the plastic piece should be tight on the point cam.
> > > 
> > >             Side play is usually a sign of wear in the shaft bushing. If the plastic piece is loose, its probably just time, heat and vibration vs cheap plastic.
> > >             -- Randall
> > > 
> > >             On 15 May 2019 18:41:10 GMT-07:00, TERRY SMITH <terryrs at comcast.net mailto:terryrs at comcast.net > wrote:
> > > 
> > >             Okay, so I was wrong.  I thought the intermittent engine miss on the TR3 had to do with a dislodged damper on the forward carb.  Test drive said no, engine still stumbled, cleared, stumbled again.  Changed fuel filters out because they were due anyway.  Problem persisted.  Checked the floats movements, all fine.  Problem persisted.  Finally just swapped the carbs entirely with spares that I knew worked, problem persisted.  So...not fuel.  If it were valves, it wouldn't be intermittent, unless a valve were sticking, right?  
> > > 
> > >              
> > > 
> > >             Next up assumption is it's electrical.  Swapped the distributor, wires and rotor with spares I knew worked.  Problem persisted.  Checked for potential electrical shorts.  Nothing obvious.  Yeesh!
> > > 
> > >              
> > > 
> > >             I run a Pertronix.  Went online and read about Pertronix troubleshooting.  Piece I read mentioned that the trigger magnet that spins on the rotor can come loose and affect the timing.  I checked this and LO!  The trigger magnet is indeed loose.  I seem to remember when I put it on some eight or nine years ago, that it went on tight.  But it now wiggles about an eighth of an inch back and forth, maybe a bit more.  
> > > 
> > >              
> > > 
> > >             So question.  Do I remember correctly, it's supposed to be tight?  And second, what would cause it to come loose over time?
> > > 
> > >              
> > > 
> > >             I know it could still be a sticking valve, but this first.  Thanks, everyone for patience with this long message.
> > > 
> > >              
> > > 
> > >             Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
> > > 
> > >             New Hampshire
> > > 
> > >         > > 
> > 
> >          
> > 
> >     > 
> 
>      
> 
>         > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> > 
> >         Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >         Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
> > 
> >         Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye at comcast.net
> > 
> >     > 
> 
>      
> 


 
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From mark at bradakis.com  Fri May 17 19:11:25 2019
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Fri, 17 May 2019 19:11:25 -0600
Subject: [TR] Triumph Stag available
Message-ID: <2de4c7f6-d262-c4ad-66d1-3100d5174ab6@bradakis.com>

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/516761518860370/

I wonder what sort of shape the travel trailer might be in?

mjb.



From dave at ranteer.com  Sat May 18 10:34:40 2019
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Sat, 18 May 2019 11:34:40 -0500
Subject: [TR] clutch issue
Message-ID: <003501d50d97$975376f0$c5fa64d0$@ranteer.com>

This is an mga, but I think the concept is the same.

 

Car sat for 3 years and now the clutch doesn't work.

 

Could be clutch replacement but someone suggested that maybe the clutch and
pressure plate have rusted together?  is there a way, short of pulling it,
to separate them?

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From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sat May 18 11:02:09 2019
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sat, 18 May 2019 10:02:09 -0700
Subject: [TR] clutch issue
In-Reply-To: <003501d50d97$975376f0$c5fa64d0$@ranteer.com>
References: <003501d50d97$975376f0$c5fa64d0$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bG2r5RqmkkcQV4F2oczKnjLMfi=VrW9nW3jwb9_KZtiCg@mail.gmail.com>

Pretty common issue after a long sit.  There are a couple of ways to
introduce some 'shock & awe' to break it loose.  The simplest may be to put
the gearbox in gear, depress the clutch pedal and (with some open driveway
in front of you) hit the starter.

If that fails to do it the progress to more drastic solutions.

On Sat, May 18, 2019 at 9:34 AM dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:

> This is an mga, but I think the concept is the same.
>
>
>
> Car sat for 3 years and now the clutch doesn?t work.
>
>
>
> Could be clutch replacement but someone suggested that maybe the clutch
> and pressure plate have rusted together?  is there a way, short of pulling
> it, to separate them?
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
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From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat May 18 12:17:53 2019
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 18 May 2019 11:17:53 -0700
Subject: [TR] clutch issue
In-Reply-To: <003501d50d97$975376f0$c5fa64d0$@ranteer.com>
References: <003501d50d97$975376f0$c5fa64d0$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <832C3EAE38A44E8CAB2FC87869E1ED2F@RYPC>

Make sure it's not a hydraulic issue first.  According to Barney Gaylord,
MGA should get at least 1/2" motion at the slave (just like a TR)
https://mgaguru.com/mgtech/clutch/ct_101.htm

Conventional brake fluid gets old and corrosive, even just sitting in the
car without being driven.  So it's quite possible to suffer a hydraulic
failure while the car is parked.

Then my suggestion is to just drive it a bit, while holding the clutch pedal
down.  Start the engine and warm it up a bit in neutral, then shut it off
and shift to the appropriate gear.  Start it in gear, back out of the
driveway or whatever, shut the engine off to stop.  Put in 1st and start it
again; drive around the block if need be.

Last time it happened to me, I didn't even get out of the driveway before it
broke loose; worked fine after that.

-- Randall 
56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild
71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild 

> 
> Car sat for 3 years and now the clutch doesn't work.
> 
>  
> 
> Could be clutch replacement but someone suggested that maybe 
> the clutch and pressure plate have rusted together?  is there 
> a way, short of pulling it, to separate them?
> 
> 


From fmags at cox.net  Sat May 18 13:00:28 2019
From: fmags at cox.net (Frank Magnusson)
Date: Sat, 18 May 2019 14:00:28 -0500
Subject: [TR] Triump Stag available
Message-ID: <AD110735-AF34-402D-B6F9-7D01DCFBDF23@cox.net>

Wow!  Looking at the picture, thats an excellent price.  Body looks in very good shape.

Sent from my iPad

From bk13 at earthlink.net  Sat May 18 13:02:20 2019
From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp)
Date: Sat, 18 May 2019 12:02:20 -0700
Subject: [TR] Triump Stag available
In-Reply-To: <AD110735-AF34-402D-B6F9-7D01DCFBDF23@cox.net>
References: <AD110735-AF34-402D-B6F9-7D01DCFBDF23@cox.net>
Message-ID: <753c1722-f685-184b-5ade-d667d0693b4a@earthlink.net>

The ad is pictures of old photographs.? No clue as to what it actually 
looks like now.

On 5/18/2019 12:00 PM, Frank Magnusson wrote:
> Wow!  Looking at the picture, thats an excellent price.  Body looks in very good shape.
>
> Sent from my iPad
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bk13 at earthlink.net
>


From fmags at cox.net  Sat May 18 13:11:05 2019
From: fmags at cox.net (Frank Magnusson)
Date: Sat, 18 May 2019 14:11:05 -0500
Subject: [TR] clutch issue
Message-ID: <DE966727-B7C2-427D-85E7-6597C27672A3@cox.net>

Not sure what they mean by the clutch doesn't work.  Is the pedal dead (master or slave obviously needs rebuilt), or is the pedal nice and firm but no response from the clutch?   If the later, I've had this happen a few times on a GT6.  What I've done is to start it in 2nd gear with open driveway / road in front of you (!) as Geo said.  Then pump the clutch pedal while also pumping the gas pedal.  That shock loading has broken it loose several times.  Once I had to go up a steep hill doing the same thing and let it slowly decelerate until it literally started bucking and it broke loose.  You can do the same thing by slowly coming to a stop with the pedal depressed and let the engine die; it will usualy start bucking and that shock usually does the trick.  

Frank



From wbeech at flash.net  Sat May 18 13:40:40 2019
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net)
Date: Sat, 18 May 2019 14:40:40 -0500
Subject: [TR] Triump Stag available
In-Reply-To: <753c1722-f685-184b-5ade-d667d0693b4a@earthlink.net>
References: <AD110735-AF34-402D-B6F9-7D01DCFBDF23@cox.net>
 <753c1722-f685-184b-5ade-d667d0693b4a@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <03103390-7121-4A36-9FDC-F4B4CF3031DE@flash.net>

Here?s a report from a member of the British Motor Club of Utah who paid a visit to this car yesterday.  
 
?Here's the update on the Stag, it's a rusty wreck. The trailer is made out of plywood and has not moved for 13 years. Somebody installed a glass window in the roof which is since broken because the wood is so rotted so every time it rains it's been filling up with water and then the water stays in there and rots out the Stag. There's glass all over the Stag the mice of eat at the the interior, and the hood is frozen shut. The tires are flat so you can't see if it has the original engine or not. It would be tough to buy this car. You have to need some pretty bad parts.?



Bill B
 
 


Sent from my DynaTAC 8000X

On May 18, 2019, at 2:02 PM, Brian Kemp <bk13 at earthlink.net> wrote:

The ad is pictures of old photographs.  No clue as to what it actually looks like now.

> On 5/18/2019 12:00 PM, Frank Magnusson wrote:
> Wow!  Looking at the picture, thats an excellent price.  Body looks in very good shape.
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bk13 at earthlink.net
> 

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From ryel at mac.com  Sat May 18 17:40:52 2019
From: ryel at mac.com (Rye Livingston)
Date: Sat, 18 May 2019 23:40:52 GMT
Subject: [TR] Triump Stag available
Message-ID: <29c20276-8930-459b-9913-ee90971671b0@me.com>

After that update of the condition of the car and the trailer, now I'm curious.?

I went back through old email and didn't see a link or photos to this Stag. ?Is this on craigslist or something? ?Can someone send the link or what ever I must missed about this car for sale.

Thanks,

Rye

On May 18, 2019 at 12:42 PM, "Wbeech at flash.net" <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:

Here?s a report from a member of the British Motor Club of Utah who paid a visit to this car yesterday. 

?Here's the update on the Stag, it's a rusty wreck. The trailer is made out of plywood and has not moved for 13 years. Somebody installed a glass window in the roof which is since broken because the wood is so rotted so every time it rains it's been filling up with water and then the water stays in there and rots out the Stag. There's glass all over the Stag the mice of eat at the the interior, and the hood is frozen shut. The tires are flat so you can't see if it has the original engine or not. It would be tough to buy this car. You have to need some pretty bad parts.?



Bill B




Sent from my DynaTAC 8000X

On May 18, 2019, at 2:02 PM, Brian Kemp <bk13 at earthlink.net> wrote:

The ad is pictures of old photographs. No clue as to what it actually looks like now.

On 5/18/2019 12:00 PM, Frank Magnusson wrote:
Wow! Looking at the picture, thats an excellent price. Body looks in very good shape.

Sent from my iPad
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive

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From wbeech at flash.net  Sat May 18 17:47:29 2019
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net)
Date: Sat, 18 May 2019 18:47:29 -0500
Subject: [TR] Triump Stag available
In-Reply-To: <29c20276-8930-459b-9913-ee90971671b0@me.com>
References: <29c20276-8930-459b-9913-ee90971671b0@me.com>
Message-ID: <05A40A3C-17CC-451F-9B5A-86CC361616A4@flash.net>

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/516761518860370/

Sent from my DynaTAC 8000X

On May 18, 2019, at 6:40 PM, Rye Livingston <ryel at mac.com> wrote:

After that update of the condition of the car and the trailer, now I'm curious. 

I went back through old email and didn't see a link or photos to this Stag.  Is this on craigslist or something?  Can someone send the link or what ever I must missed about this car for sale.

Thanks,

Rye

> On May 18, 2019 at 12:42 PM, "Wbeech at flash.net" <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:
> 

> Here?s a report from a member of the British Motor Club of Utah who paid a visit to this car yesterday. 
> 
> ?Here's the update on the Stag, it's a rusty wreck. The trailer is made out of plywood and has not moved for 13 years. Somebody installed a glass window in the roof which is since broken because the wood is so rotted so every time it rains it's been filling up with water and then the water stays in there and rots out the Stag. There's glass all over the Stag the mice of eat at the the interior, and the hood is frozen shut. The tires are flat so you can't see if it has the original engine or not. It would be tough to buy this car. You have to need some pretty bad parts.?
> 
> 
> 
> Bill B
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my DynaTAC 8000X
> 
> On May 18, 2019, at 2:02 PM, Brian Kemp <bk13 at earthlink.net> wrote:
> 
> The ad is pictures of old photographs. No clue as to what it actually looks like now.
> 
>> On 5/18/2019 12:00 PM, Frank Magnusson wrote:
>> Wow! Looking at the picture, thats an excellent price. Body looks in very good shape.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bk13 at earthlink.net
>> 
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
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> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
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From ryel at mac.com  Sat May 18 18:17:04 2019
From: ryel at mac.com (Rye Livingston)
Date: Sun, 19 May 2019 00:17:04 GMT
Subject: [TR] Triump Stag available
Message-ID: <3b867a67-c7f9-4860-bdc7-00e04eea0f9e@me.com>

Thank you, and wow, that is misleading from what the photos look like, and the update of the current condition of the car. ?Looks like someone bought it.

Rye




On May 18, 2019 at 4:49 PM, "Wbeech at flash.net" <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/516761518860370/

Sent from my DynaTAC 8000X

On May 18, 2019, at 6:40 PM, Rye Livingston <ryel at mac.com> wrote:

After that update of the condition of the car and the trailer, now I'm curious.?

I went back through old email and didn't see a link or photos to this Stag. ?Is this on craigslist or something? ?Can someone send the link or what ever I must missed about this car for sale.

Thanks,

Rye

On May 18, 2019 at 12:42 PM, "Wbeech at flash.net" <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:

Here?s a report from a member of the British Motor Club of Utah who paid a visit to this car yesterday. 

?Here's the update on the Stag, it's a rusty wreck. The trailer is made out of plywood and has not moved for 13 years. Somebody installed a glass window in the roof which is since broken because the wood is so rotted so every time it rains it's been filling up with water and then the water stays in there and rots out the Stag. There's glass all over the Stag the mice of eat at the the interior, and the hood is frozen shut. The tires are flat so you can't see if it has the original engine or not. It would be tough to buy this car. You have to need some pretty bad parts.?



Bill B




Sent from my DynaTAC 8000X

On May 18, 2019, at 2:02 PM, Brian Kemp <bk13 at earthlink.net> wrote:

The ad is pictures of old photographs. No clue as to what it actually looks like now.

On 5/18/2019 12:00 PM, Frank Magnusson wrote:
Wow! Looking at the picture, thats an excellent price. Body looks in very good shape.

Sent from my iPad
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive

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From aljlthomson at charter.net  Sun May 19 05:58:55 2019
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson)
Date: Sun, 19 May 2019 07:58:55 -0400
Subject: [TR] clutch issue
In-Reply-To: <003501d50d97$975376f0$c5fa64d0$@ranteer.com>
References: <003501d50d97$975376f0$c5fa64d0$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <000901d50e3a$3c6fa760$b54ef620$@charter.net>

I have found that if the disk is actually rusted to the pressure plate, it
may be very difficult to make it release by the shock method. A three year
lay-up is a considerable amount of time - especially if mice have gotten in
there and made a mess. I have had better luck on some trucks and tractors by
removing the sheet metal flywheel cover underneath the bell housing and
freeing up the offending disk with a screwdriver or thin chisel while
someone has the clutch pedal pressed down. No inspection plate? I once used
a hole saw to make a 1.5" hole in the bottom of the clutch housing on a Ford
801 tractor that was equipped with a full frame loader. It was a major
chance I was taking between estimating the location of the flywheel/clutch
disk interface, not hitting any internal hydraulic lines, and not finding
that the tractor was equipped with a recessed -surface flywheel. It worked!
A lot easier than splitting the tractor. A '54 Chevy 6400 truck had the
sheet metal cover that I mentioned earlier and that was the real easy one.
In both cases, I tried the usual tricks of backing up against a tree, shock
shifting, etc. No luck with those attempts.

 

But, as other responders have mentioned, make sure that the clutch release
mechanism is working first. Sort of like rebuilding an engine to cure the
no-start situation just to find the fuel tank was dry.

 

Alex Thomson

 

From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of dave
Sent: Saturday, May 18, 2019 12:35 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] clutch issue

 

This is an mga, but I think the concept is the same.

 

Car sat for 3 years and now the clutch doesn't work.

 

Could be clutch replacement but someone suggested that maybe the clutch and
pressure plate have rusted together?  is there a way, short of pulling it,
to separate them?

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From grglmn at gmail.com  Sun May 19 08:50:23 2019
From: grglmn at gmail.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Sun, 19 May 2019 09:50:23 -0500
Subject: [TR] clutch issue
In-Reply-To: <000901d50e3a$3c6fa760$b54ef620$@charter.net>
References: <003501d50d97$975376f0$c5fa64d0$@ranteer.com>
 <000901d50e3a$3c6fa760$b54ef620$@charter.net>
Message-ID: <CAFtw3abSEs4jFyiOrRi8iyy_f+P40UU5zOr4Mh-8WBcNVb=9gg@mail.gmail.com>

I went through many years of never having this problems, but recently have
have several instances.  The one that is suggest as fool proof is starting
the car in gear if you can and running around on off throttle quickly until
it pops.  I never tried it for variety of reasons.  If you had a big open
parking lot you could use, guess it would be ok.

My BMW 2002 I bought with a stuck clutch didn't respond to anything and I
ended up pulling the tranny.  By the time I had muscled it out to drop it
the clutch disk just dropped out.

My TR250 has done it a couple times now after winter storage, and has been
pretty easy to pop.

Greg Lemon


On Sun, May 19, 2019, 6:59 AM Alex & Janet Thomson <aljlthomson at charter.net>
wrote:

> I have found that if the disk is actually rusted to the pressure plate, it
> may be very difficult to make it release by the shock method. A three year
> lay-up is a considerable amount of time ? especially if mice have gotten in
> there and made a mess. I have had better luck on some trucks and tractors
> by removing the sheet metal flywheel cover underneath the bell housing and
> freeing up the offending disk with a screwdriver or thin chisel while
> someone has the clutch pedal pressed down. No inspection plate? I once used
> a hole saw to make a 1.5? hole in the bottom of the clutch housing on a
> Ford 801 tractor that was equipped with a full frame loader. It was a major
> chance I was taking between estimating the location of the flywheel/clutch
> disk interface, not hitting any internal hydraulic lines, and not finding
> that the tractor was equipped with a recessed ?surface flywheel. It worked!
> A lot easier than splitting the tractor. A ?54 Chevy 6400 truck had the
> sheet metal cover that I mentioned earlier and that was the real easy one.
> In both cases, I tried the usual tricks of backing up against a tree, shock
> shifting, etc. No luck with those attempts.
>
>
>
> But, as other responders have mentioned, make sure that the clutch release
> mechanism is working first. Sort of like rebuilding an engine to cure the
> no-start situation just to find the fuel tank was dry.
>
>
>
> Alex Thomson
>
>
>
> *From:* Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *
> dave
> *Sent:* Saturday, May 18, 2019 12:35 PM
> *To:* triumphs at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* [TR] clutch issue
>
>
>
> This is an mga, but I think the concept is the same.
>
>
>
> Car sat for 3 years and now the clutch doesn?t work.
>
>
>
> Could be clutch replacement but someone suggested that maybe the clutch
> and pressure plate have rusted together?  is there a way, short of pulling
> it, to separate them?
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/grglmn at gmail.com
>
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From davidt at opentext.com  Sun May 19 18:00:31 2019
From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton)
Date: Mon, 20 May 2019 00:00:31 +0000
Subject: [TR] [EXTERNAL] - Re:  Hi-torq starter
In-Reply-To: <4F95E0A00E93401595B92537D175710D@RYPC>
References: <00c501d4f770$fd849770$f88dc650$@uprichard.net>
 <A1356327-D314-49F7-B0BC-799813A6A5BB@comcast.net>
 <4F95E0A00E93401595B92537D175710D@RYPC>
Message-ID: <YTXPR0101MB217457BCD82F103DA672EEF6B6060@YTXPR0101MB2174.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>

So I just installed a high torque starter from Ted at TS Import.  The easiest way to check ( since it changed around 50K it seems, this line up with your knowledge Randall? ).  Remove the starter and look for the mounting bolt for the ring.  I got lucky and one of the bolts was right there ?.  Otherwise need to turn the motor.



I can say I am so convinced about this purchase, spins the motor 4x faster and cranks forever.  Something you need when trying to first start ?



David


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From davidt at opentext.com  Sun May 19 18:04:14 2019
From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton)
Date: Mon, 20 May 2019 00:04:14 +0000
Subject: [TR] SHE RUNS AND RUNS
Message-ID: <YTXPR0101MB2174CC91D69249CF446148B7B6060@YTXPR0101MB2174.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>

After 16yrs she went for her first shakedown run!!!!!



https://youtu.be/0a4AEENefqw



Being Canadian, I have to say sorry, but had to share ?



David Templeton

TR3a ? On the road again?.

Spitsix -  waiting for a new gearbox, and a body swap







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From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun May 19 18:07:19 2019
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 19 May 2019 17:07:19 -0700
Subject: [TR] [EXTERNAL] - Re:  Hi-torq starter
In-Reply-To: <YTXPR0101MB217457BCD82F103DA672EEF6B6060@YTXPR0101MB2174.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
References: <00c501d4f770$fd849770$f88dc650$@uprichard.net>
 <A1356327-D314-49F7-B0BC-799813A6A5BB@comcast.net>
 <4F95E0A00E93401595B92537D175710D@RYPC>
 <YTXPR0101MB217457BCD82F103DA672EEF6B6060@YTXPR0101MB2174.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
Message-ID: <AFC55B5179354D0AAEE59E15AD050BDD@RYPC>

Right.  Starter, flywheel, ring gear and gearbox housing all changed at (supposedly) TS50001.

-- Randall 
56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild
71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On 
> Behalf Of David Templeton
> Sent: Sunday, May 19, 2019 5:01 PM
> To: Randall; 'Tom Fansher'; 'Andrew Uprichard'
> Cc: Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] [EXTERNAL] - Re: Hi-torq starter
> 
> So I just installed a high torque starter from Ted at TS 
> Import.  The easiest way to check ( since it changed around 
> 50K it seems, this line up with your knowledge Randall? ).  
> Remove the starter and look for the mounting bolt for the 
> ring.  I got lucky and one of the bolts was right there ?.  
> Otherwise need to turn the motor.  
> 
>  
> 
> I can say I am so convinced about this purchase, spins the 
> motor 4x faster and cranks forever.  Something you need when 
> trying to first start ?
> 
>  
> 
> David 
> 
>  
> 
> 


From dave1massey at cs.com  Mon May 20 05:42:31 2019
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Mon, 20 May 2019 11:42:31 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] SHE RUNS AND RUNS
References: <1232909288.2524513.1558352551978.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1232909288.2524513.1558352551978@mail.yahoo.com>

 Great feeling, isn't.? Congratulations.

https://youtu.be/0a4AEENefqw
 
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: David Templeton <davidt at opentext.com>
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, May 19, 2019 7:09 pm
Subject: [TR] SHE RUNS AND RUNS

 &lt;!-- #yiv1081601642 _filtered #yiv1081601642 {font-family:"Cambria Math"; panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv1081601642 {font-family:Calibri; panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;} #yiv1081601642 #yiv1081601642 p.yiv1081601642MsoNormal, #yiv1081601642 li.yiv1081601642MsoNormal, #yiv1081601642 div.yiv1081601642MsoNormal {margin:0in; margin-bottom:.0001pt; font-size:11.0pt; font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;} #yiv1081601642 a:link, #yiv1081601642 span.yiv1081601642MsoHyperlink { color:#0563C1; text-decoration:underline;} #yiv1081601642 a:visited, #yiv1081601642 span.yiv1081601642MsoHyperlinkFollowed { color:#954F72; text-decoration:underline;} #yiv1081601642 p.yiv1081601642MsoPlainText, #yiv1081601642 li.yiv1081601642MsoPlainText, #yiv1081601642 div.yiv1081601642MsoPlainText { margin:0in; margin-bottom:.0001pt; font-size:11.0pt; font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;} #yiv1081601642 span.yiv1081601642EmailStyle17 { font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif; color:windowtext;} #yiv1081601642 span.yiv1081601642PlainTextChar { font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;} #yiv1081601642 .yiv1081601642MsoChpDefault { font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;} _filtered #yiv1081601642 { margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in;} #yiv1081601642 div.yiv1081601642WordSection1 {} --&gt;After 16yrs she went for her first shakedown run!!!!!  ? https://youtu.be/0a4AEENefqw  ? Being Canadian, I have to say sorry, but had to share ?  ? David Templeton TR3a ? On the road again?. Spitsix -? waiting for a new gearbox, and a body swap  ?  ?  ?  ? ** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Mon May 20 10:07:13 2019
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Mon, 20 May 2019 16:07:13 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] SHE RUNS AND RUNS
In-Reply-To: <YTXPR0101MB2174CC91D69249CF446148B7B6060@YTXPR0101MB2174.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
References: <YTXPR0101MB2174CC91D69249CF446148B7B6060@YTXPR0101MB2174.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
Message-ID: <1017229636.1804933.1558368433147@mail.yahoo.com>

 we Canadians always like to apologize. until we put on the skates and get hold of a stick.
next year is the year of the jets
frank


    On Sunday, May 19, 2019, 5:09:10 PM PDT, David Templeton <davidt at opentext.com> wrote:  
 
  
After 16yrs she went for her first shakedown run!!!!!
 
 ?
 
https://youtu.be/0a4AEENefqw
 
 ?
 
Being Canadian, I have to say sorry, but had to share ?
 
 ?
 
David Templeton
 
TR3a ? On the road again?.
 
Spitsix -? waiting for a new gearbox, and a body swap
 
 ?
 
 ?
 
 ?
 
 ?
 ** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com
  
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From davidt at opentext.com  Mon May 20 18:45:13 2019
From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2019 00:45:13 +0000
Subject: [TR] For those interested
Message-ID: <YTXPR0101MB2174629BF5EEF7ACA6D16AEBB6070@YTXPR0101MB2174.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>

Shakedown run #4 ( 17 miles in total so far ) dash cam with sound.

Much louder and cleaner sound in the car, at least to my ears :-) Top speed 105kph, gauge says 73mph :-P

https://youtu.be/EFQBm_8M5yc

Working some issues out but isn't that what a shakedown drive is for

David
Tr3a -  running wild!!
Spitsix - looking for gears in all the wrong places

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From terryrs at comcast.net  Mon May 20 18:54:04 2019
From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH)
Date: Mon, 20 May 2019 20:54:04 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] For those interested
In-Reply-To: <YTXPR0101MB2174629BF5EEF7ACA6D16AEBB6070@YTXPR0101MB2174.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
References: <YTXPR0101MB2174629BF5EEF7ACA6D16AEBB6070@YTXPR0101MB2174.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
Message-ID: <677219803.42199.1558400045588@connect.xfinity.com>

Thank you, Dave.  That video is incredible.  I remember when I was restoring mine, looking at videos like yours gave me courage to keep going.


Nice!


Terry

> On May 20, 2019 at 8:45 PM David Templeton <davidt at opentext.com> wrote:
> 
> 
>     Shakedown run #4 ( 17 miles in total so far ) dash cam with sound.
> 
>      
> 
>     Much louder and cleaner sound in the car, at least to my ears :-) Top speed 105kph, gauge says 73mph :-P
> 
>      
> 
>     https://youtu.be/EFQBm_8M5yc
> 
>      
> 
>     Working some issues out but isn?t that what a shakedown drive is for
> 
>      
> 
>     David
> 
>     Tr3a -  running wild!!
> 
>     Spitsix ? looking for gears in all the wrong places
> 
>      
> 


 

> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
> 
>     Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at comcast.net
> 


 
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From davidt at opentext.com  Mon May 20 19:18:31 2019
From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2019 01:18:31 +0000
Subject: [TR] [EXTERNAL] - Re:  For those interested
In-Reply-To: <677219803.42199.1558400045588@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <YTXPR0101MB2174629BF5EEF7ACA6D16AEBB6070@YTXPR0101MB2174.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
 <677219803.42199.1558400045588@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <YTXPR0101MB2174D5DDB0E2043BB1A077B2B6070@YTXPR0101MB2174.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>

Terry

If it can inspire and keep people going then I have done my duty to this hobby

For those who want to see the stuff along the way?.

https://www.facebook.com/davidt50/media_set?set=a.10154286660266960


David


From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of TERRY SMITH
Sent: Monday, May 20, 2019 8:54 PM
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [EXTERNAL] - Re: [TR] For those interested


Thank you, Dave.  That video is incredible.  I remember when I was restoring mine, looking at videos like yours gave me courage to keep going.



Nice!



Terry
On May 20, 2019 at 8:45 PM David Templeton <davidt at opentext.com<mailto:davidt at opentext.com>> wrote:

Shakedown run #4 ( 17 miles in total so far ) dash cam with sound.



Much louder and cleaner sound in the car, at least to my ears :-) Top speed 105kph, gauge says 73mph :-P



https://youtu.be/EFQBm_8M5yc



Working some issues out but isn?t that what a shakedown drive is for



David

Tr3a -  running wild!!

Spitsix ? looking for gears in all the wrong places




** triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at comcast.net


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From stan at redtr6.com  Mon May 20 19:32:42 2019
From: stan at redtr6.com (Stan Foster)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2019 01:32:42 +0000
Subject: [TR] For those interested
In-Reply-To: <YTXPR0101MB2174629BF5EEF7ACA6D16AEBB6070@YTXPR0101MB2174.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
References: <YTXPR0101MB2174629BF5EEF7ACA6D16AEBB6070@YTXPR0101MB2174.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
Message-ID: <BN8PR05MB66921D0A97C96E41900F494EFE070@BN8PR05MB6692.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>

Congrats David. The TR3 is a different driving experience even from its close cousins like the TR4 and TR6 but it has a suprising amount of oomph for a 60 year old.

Stan
________________________________
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of David Templeton <davidt at opentext.com>
Sent: Monday, May 20, 2019 8:45:13 PM
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] For those interested

Shakedown run #4 ( 17 miles in total so far ) dash cam with sound.

Much louder and cleaner sound in the car, at least to my ears :-) Top speed 105kph, gauge says 73mph :-P

https://youtu.be/EFQBm_8M5yc

Working some issues out but isn?t that what a shakedown drive is for

David
Tr3a -  running wild!!
Spitsix ? looking for gears in all the wrong places

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From davidt at opentext.com  Mon May 20 20:05:52 2019
From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2019 02:05:52 +0000
Subject: [TR] For those interested
In-Reply-To: <BN8PR05MB66921D0A97C96E41900F494EFE070@BN8PR05MB6692.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
References: <YTXPR0101MB2174629BF5EEF7ACA6D16AEBB6070@YTXPR0101MB2174.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
 <BN8PR05MB66921D0A97C96E41900F494EFE070@BN8PR05MB6692.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <YTXPR0101MB217430B420314493ED8F72E9B6070@YTXPR0101MB2174.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>

No kidding it is different ?  the models you mention but also my spitfire.

Learning to drive on this car ?  first gear no synchro and straight cut?.

Not as tight turning radius

Just talking today with someone about here and he mentioned how low to the ground she is.  I said it really is a street legal go-kart ?



From: Stan Foster <stan at redtr6.com>
Sent: Monday, May 20, 2019 9:33 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net; David Templeton <davidt at opentext.com>
Subject: [EXTERNAL] - Re: For those interested

Congrats David. The TR3 is a different driving experience even from its close cousins like the TR4 and TR6 but it has a suprising amount of oomph for a 60 year old.
Stan
________________________________
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net>> on behalf of David Templeton <davidt at opentext.com<mailto:davidt at opentext.com>>
Sent: Monday, May 20, 2019 8:45:13 PM
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] For those interested

Shakedown run #4 ( 17 miles in total so far ) dash cam with sound.

Much louder and cleaner sound in the car, at least to my ears :-) Top speed 105kph, gauge says 73mph :-P

https://youtu.be/EFQBm_8M5yc

Working some issues out but isn?t that what a shakedown drive is for

David
Tr3a -  running wild!!
Spitsix ? looking for gears in all the wrong places

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From triumphstag at gmail.com  Tue May 21 00:03:19 2019
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Mon, 20 May 2019 23:03:19 -0700
Subject: [TR] Differences between a bolt - hexagon head and a setscrew -
 hexagon head
Message-ID: <CANLCLaGjsFaYnobXiW2XXuohkVrJeA38Yp6DMDXKyyErMKyR-w@mail.gmail.com>

I can't figure out what the difference  is between  a bolt - hexagon head
and a setscrew hexagon head as mentioned in the Standard Hardware Catalog.
Here's my theory.  A bolt  - hexagon head has an integrated washer built
into the head. and the part no. starts with HB where as a setscrew -
hexagon head does not have the integral washer. (HU)

My Stag parts book shows three fasteners holding on the water pump cover.

1 is a bolt (HU) no washer needed nor shown, the other two are setscrews
(HU) 2 washers needed and are shown.



Can someone enlighten me?

Regards, Sujit

-- 
Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California

https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
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From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue May 21 01:01:47 2019
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2019 00:01:47 -0700
Subject: [TR] Differences between a bolt - hexagon head and a setscrew -
 hexagon head
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaGjsFaYnobXiW2XXuohkVrJeA38Yp6DMDXKyyErMKyR-w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaGjsFaYnobXiW2XXuohkVrJeA38Yp6DMDXKyyErMKyR-w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <A326B33E82F44C2296E95E9AC6FFCB67@RYPC>

> My Stag parts book shows three fasteners holding on the water 
> pump cover.
> 
> 1 is a bolt (HU) no washer needed nor shown, the other two 
> are setscrews (HU) 2 washers needed and are shown.

I believe the distinction is that a "setscrew" has no unthreaded shank
portion, while a "bolt" does.

Then what I would call a "set screw" (a short screw with no head, so it can
go entirely within a threaded hole), the British call a "grub screw".

The Stag water pump SPC page I'm looking at calls for (3) of WP0008 "washer,
plain" on the water pump.  I'm fairly confident the 3rd one goes under
HB0811 even though there is only one drawing of it (under HU0806).  There
are quite a few different editions of the Stag SPC, and I've found lots of
errors in all of them.  (Oddly enough, the later ones seem to be even worse
than the earlier ones.)  So I'm guessing you're looking at a different
version, and the qty (2) for WP0008 is a misprint.  Or not; but I don't know
of any reason the two short ones would need a flat washer and not the longer
one.  (HB0811 is 1-3/8", while HU0806 is only 3/4".)

-- Randall 
56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild
71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild 
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From mmarr at albiontechnical.com  Tue May 21 05:20:22 2019
From: mmarr at albiontechnical.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2019 11:20:22 +0000
Subject: [TR] Differences between a bolt - hexagon head and a setscrew -
 hexagon head
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaGjsFaYnobXiW2XXuohkVrJeA38Yp6DMDXKyyErMKyR-w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaGjsFaYnobXiW2XXuohkVrJeA38Yp6DMDXKyyErMKyR-w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <B1BF6174-47E8-459B-B3F9-06EA408B58EA@albiontechnical.com>

The shank of a screw is threaded all the way to the head of the screw.  The shank of a bolt is only threaded part way - the balance of the bolt is unthreaded.

Michael Marr

Mobile:  630-202-0065

Sent from my iPad

On May 21, 2019, at 01:04, Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com<mailto:triumphstag at gmail.com>> wrote:

I can't figure out what the difference  is between  a bolt - hexagon head and a setscrew hexagon head as mentioned in the Standard Hardware Catalog.
Here's my theory.  A bolt  - hexagon head has an integrated washer built into the head. and the part no. starts with HB where as a setscrew - hexagon head does not have the integral washer. (HU)

My Stag parts book shows three fasteners holding on the water pump cover.

1 is a bolt (HU) no washer needed nor shown, the other two are setscrews (HU) 2 washers needed and are shown.



Can someone enlighten me?

Regards, Sujit

--
Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California

https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/

** triumphs at autox.team.net<mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From triumphstag at gmail.com  Tue May 21 10:07:12 2019
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2019 09:07:12 -0700
Subject: [TR] Differences between a bolt - hexagon head and a setscrew -
 hexagon head
In-Reply-To: <B1BF6174-47E8-459B-B3F9-06EA408B58EA@albiontechnical.com>
References: <CANLCLaGjsFaYnobXiW2XXuohkVrJeA38Yp6DMDXKyyErMKyR-w@mail.gmail.com>
 <B1BF6174-47E8-459B-B3F9-06EA408B58EA@albiontechnical.com>
Message-ID: <CANLCLaFoMXXzUKAUPPkmiL3FU1u3dUOvon-v4_3bpRg7uYNp_g@mail.gmail.com>

Thx. Randall, You corrected me with the part no. My parts book for sure
shows WP08 as (2)

By the way,  i have noticed what in the USA is called a hex cap screw. "A *hex
head cap screw* is a six-sided bolt with a trimmed *hex head* and a washer
face on the bearing surface" Most of my screws and bolts for the Triumph
have this washer face. Do I really need an additional washer or is the
washer needed to spread the load?

Sujit

On Tue, May 21, 2019 at 4:20 AM Michael Marr <mmarr at albiontechnical.com>
wrote:

> The shank of a screw is threaded all the way to the head of the screw.
> The shank of a bolt is only threaded part way - the balance of the bolt is
> unthreaded.
>
> Michael Marr
>
> Mobile:  630-202-0065
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On May 21, 2019, at 01:04, Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I can't figure out what the difference  is between  a bolt - hexagon head
> and a setscrew hexagon head as mentioned in the Standard Hardware Catalog.
> Here's my theory.  A bolt  - hexagon head has an integrated washer built
> into the head. and the part no. starts with HB where as a setscrew -
> hexagon head does not have the integral washer. (HU)
>
> My Stag parts book shows three fasteners holding on the water pump cover.
>
> 1 is a bolt (HU) no washer needed nor shown, the other two are setscrews
> (HU) 2 washers needed and are shown.
>
>
>
> Can someone enlighten me?
>
> Regards, Sujit
>
> --
> Sujit Roy
> Cupertino, California
>
> https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mmarr at albiontechnical.com
>
>

-- 
Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California

https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
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From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue May 21 11:48:48 2019
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2019 10:48:48 -0700
Subject: [TR] Differences between a bolt - hexagon head and a setscrew -
 hexagon head
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaFoMXXzUKAUPPkmiL3FU1u3dUOvon-v4_3bpRg7uYNp_g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaGjsFaYnobXiW2XXuohkVrJeA38Yp6DMDXKyyErMKyR-w@mail.gmail.com>
 <B1BF6174-47E8-459B-B3F9-06EA408B58EA@albiontechnical.com>
 <CANLCLaFoMXXzUKAUPPkmiL3FU1u3dUOvon-v4_3bpRg7uYNp_g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <A0C3E8FCADB9410593664B035972ED19@RYPC>


> By the way,  i have noticed what in the USA is called a hex 
> cap screw. "A hex head cap screw is a six-sided bolt with a 
> trimmed hex head and a washer face on the bearing surface" 

The terminology is not always used consistently even within the US.  The
term "cap screw" is sometimes used only as the opposite of "set screw",
indicating that it does have a head that is larger than the threads.
Another definition is that a "cap screw" threads into some other part (like
a manifold or cylinder head) rather than a "bolt" going into a nut.

> Most of my screws and bolts for the Triumph  have this washer 
> face. Do I really need an additional washer or is the washer 
> needed to spread the load?

Depends on the application; but in general if the manufacturer specified a
flat washer, then I would use one.  I've found several places where adding a
flat washer helped significantly; can't remember ever thinking that leaving
one out would help in any way.  For steel fasteners against aluminum
castings (like the Stag water pump), they also help keep the bolt head from
tearing up the casting.

Fastener technology is one of those things that looks simple at first, but
the more you look into it, the more complicated it gets.

-- Randall



From kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Sat May 25 12:52:36 2019
From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer)
Date: Sat, 25 May 2019 11:52:36 -0700
Subject: [TR] Where is the TR4 frame number located
In-Reply-To: <677219803.42199.1558400045588@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <YTXPR0101MB2174629BF5EEF7ACA6D16AEBB6070@YTXPR0101MB2174.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
 <677219803.42199.1558400045588@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <001a01d5132b$07007690$150163b0$@net>

A friend recently acquired a Devon bodied TR4, well, basically, practically the only thing that is left of the TR4 is the frame. He?s thinking of getting it titled, but has no number to go on and can?t seem to find the frame number. Does anyone know exactly where it is located?

 

Thanks,

Bob

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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat May 25 13:04:37 2019
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 25 May 2019 12:04:37 -0700
Subject: [TR] Where is the TR4 frame number located
In-Reply-To: <001a01d5132b$07007690$150163b0$@net>
References: <YTXPR0101MB2174629BF5EEF7ACA6D16AEBB6070@YTXPR0101MB2174.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
 <677219803.42199.1558400045588@connect.xfinity.com>
 <001a01d5132b$07007690$150163b0$@net>
Message-ID: <E2401BFB-6DC3-4703-8366-18E510DD182E@ca.rr.com>

There isn't one AFAIK. There might be a tag on top of the front cross member (under the engine) but if its there, its just a series number or something like that. There is nothing to identify a particular frame.

Depends on the state, but most of them have a process for assigning a new vin number to a car assembled from parts. The local DMV may not know much about it, but its there. And usually pretty easy, if you know how.
-- Randall

On 25 May 2019 11:52:36 GMT-07:00, Kinderlehrer <kinderlehrer at comcast.net> wrote:
>A friend recently acquired a Devon bodied TR4, well, basically,
>practically the only thing that is left of the TR4 is the frame. He?s
>thinking of getting it titled, but has no number to go on and can?t
>seem to find the frame number. Does anyone know exactly where it is
>located?
>
> 
>
>Thanks,
>
>Bob
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From kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Sat May 25 14:00:38 2019
From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer)
Date: Sat, 25 May 2019 13:00:38 -0700
Subject: [TR] Where is the TR4 frame number located
In-Reply-To: <E2401BFB-6DC3-4703-8366-18E510DD182E@ca.rr.com>
References: <YTXPR0101MB2174629BF5EEF7ACA6D16AEBB6070@YTXPR0101MB2174.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
 <677219803.42199.1558400045588@connect.xfinity.com>
 <001a01d5132b$07007690$150163b0$@net>
 <E2401BFB-6DC3-4703-8366-18E510DD182E@ca.rr.com>
Message-ID: <003101d51334$86a7aae0$93f700a0$@net>

Thanks Randall. Going down the kit car route is a possibility. It appears as though it requires a smog certificate, not sure how that would work with a Rover engine of who knows what vintage. All he has is a bill of sale, just thinking a frame number might be enough to get a TR4 title. There are some specialists that can work wonders with very little.

Bob

 

From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2019 12:05 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Where is the TR4 frame number located

 

There isn't one AFAIK. There might be a tag on top of the front cross member (under the engine) but if its there, its just a series number or something like that. There is nothing to identify a particular frame.

Depends on the state, but most of them have a process for assigning a new vin number to a car assembled from parts. The local DMV may not know much about it, but its there. And usually pretty easy, if you know how.
-- Randall

On 25 May 2019 11:52:36 GMT-07:00, Kinderlehrer <kinderlehrer at comcast.net> wrote:

A friend recently acquired a Devon bodied TR4, well, basically, practically the only thing that is left of the TR4 is the frame. He?s thinking of getting it titled, but has no number to go on and can?t seem to find the frame number. Does anyone know exactly where it is located?

 

Thanks,

Bob

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From John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk  Sat May 25 15:07:23 2019
From: John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Sat, 25 May 2019 22:07:23 +0100
Subject: [TR] Where is the TR4 frame number located
In-Reply-To: <003101d51334$86a7aae0$93f700a0$@net>
References: <YTXPR0101MB2174629BF5EEF7ACA6D16AEBB6070@YTXPR0101MB2174.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
 <677219803.42199.1558400045588@connect.xfinity.com>
 <001a01d5132b$07007690$150163b0$@net>
 <E2401BFB-6DC3-4703-8366-18E510DD182E@ca.rr.com>
 <003101d51334$86a7aae0$93f700a0$@net>
Message-ID: <DF2E7741-00A0-4F96-9958-F9FE7F4E7F91@Ukpips.org.uk>

Bob, I don?t remember us ever recording or using frame ref numbers. In fact, don?t think frames were ever numbered from a production standpoint. Nearest you?ll get is/was the body number but the commission number was the most important of all.

Jonmac

Remember, it?s rarely a good idea to squat, unless you?ve already removed your spurs!

> On 25 May 2019, at 21:00, Kinderlehrer <kinderlehrer at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> Thanks Randall. Going down the kit car route is a possibility. It appears as though it requires a smog certificate, not sure how that would work with a Rover engine of who knows what vintage. All he has is a bill of sale, just thinking a frame number might be enough to get a TR4 title. There are some specialists that can work wonders with very little.
> Bob
>  
> From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall
> Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2019 12:05 PM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] Where is the TR4 frame number located
>  
> There isn't one AFAIK. There might be a tag on top of the front cross member (under the engine) but if its there, its just a series number or something like that. There is nothing to identify a particular frame.
> 
> Depends on the state, but most of them have a process for assigning a new vin number to a car assembled from parts. The local DMV may not know much about it, but its there. And usually pretty easy, if you know how.
> -- Randall
> 
> On 25 May 2019 11:52:36 GMT-07:00, Kinderlehrer <kinderlehrer at comcast.net> wrote:
> A friend recently acquired a Devon bodied TR4, well, basically, practically the only thing that is left of the TR4 is the frame. He?s thinking of getting it titled, but has no number to go on and can?t seem to find the frame number. Does anyone know exactly where it is located?
>  
> Thanks,
> Bob
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk
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From kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Sat May 25 16:12:33 2019
From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer)
Date: Sat, 25 May 2019 15:12:33 -0700
Subject: [TR] Where is the TR4 frame number located
In-Reply-To: <DF2E7741-00A0-4F96-9958-F9FE7F4E7F91@Ukpips.org.uk>
References: <YTXPR0101MB2174629BF5EEF7ACA6D16AEBB6070@YTXPR0101MB2174.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>	<677219803.42199.1558400045588@connect.xfinity.com>	<001a01d5132b$07007690$150163b0$@net>	<E2401BFB-6DC3-4703-8366-18E510DD182E@ca.rr.com>	<003101d51334$86a7aae0$93f700a0$@net>
 <DF2E7741-00A0-4F96-9958-F9FE7F4E7F91@Ukpips.org.uk>
Message-ID: <006701d51346$f43992f0$dcacb8d0$@net>

Thanks John, I was told there was a number on my TR3 (don?t remember ever seeing it) and I?m pretty sure that there is a number stamped on my TR2000 Roadster frame (I think I saw that). Just thought here would be one on the TR4. 

This from the Roadster group, my car doesn?t look this good from underneath.

Bob

 

https://09294824985658313231.googlegroups.com/attach/62a40777e025fc7e/image002.png?part=0.1&view=1&vt=ANaJVrFXtVyOykHdMkaAS3orjMkyYfVHshEINoWxJ-mhzzN519-SCOGtquJZvqjMtErXQWOKuaMW7ED4RB1bdmj81cBGqJx2VUXuH-7Eez5ZGvbNWve6jCM

 

 

 

From: John Macartney [mailto:John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk] 
Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2019 2:07 PM
To: Kinderlehrer
Cc: Randall; triumphs at autox.team.net; Jim Kermode
Subject: Re: [TR] Where is the TR4 frame number located

 

Bob, I don?t remember us ever recording or using frame ref numbers. In fact, don?t think frames were ever numbered from a production standpoint. Nearest you?ll get is/was the body number but the commission number was the most important of all.

 

Jonmac

Remember, it?s rarely a good idea to squat, unless you?ve already removed your spurs!


On 25 May 2019, at 21:00, Kinderlehrer <kinderlehrer at comcast.net> wrote:

Thanks Randall. Going down the kit car route is a possibility. It appears as though it requires a smog certificate, not sure how that would work with a Rover engine of who knows what vintage. All he has is a bill of sale, just thinking a frame number might be enough to get a TR4 title. There are some specialists that can work wonders with very little.

Bob

 

From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2019 12:05 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Where is the TR4 frame number located

 

There isn't one AFAIK. There might be a tag on top of the front cross member (under the engine) but if its there, its just a series number or something like that. There is nothing to identify a particular frame.

Depends on the state, but most of them have a process for assigning a new vin number to a car assembled from parts. The local DMV may not know much about it, but its there. And usually pretty easy, if you know how.
-- Randall

On 25 May 2019 11:52:36 GMT-07:00, Kinderlehrer <kinderlehrer at comcast.net> wrote:

A friend recently acquired a Devon bodied TR4, well, basically, practically the only thing that is left of the TR4 is the frame. He?s thinking of getting it titled, but has no number to go on and can?t seem to find the frame number. Does anyone know exactly where it is located?

 

Thanks,

Bob

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk

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From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat May 25 17:16:54 2019
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 25 May 2019 16:16:54 -0700
Subject: [TR] Where is the TR4 frame number located
In-Reply-To: <003101d51334$86a7aae0$93f700a0$@net>
References: <YTXPR0101MB2174629BF5EEF7ACA6D16AEBB6070@YTXPR0101MB2174.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
 <677219803.42199.1558400045588@connect.xfinity.com>
 <001a01d5132b$07007690$150163b0$@net>
 <E2401BFB-6DC3-4703-8366-18E510DD182E@ca.rr.com>
 <003101d51334$86a7aae0$93f700a0$@net>
Message-ID: <AA96B20B9E4D430E89B0886A95E58749@RYPC>

Again, it probably depends on the state.  But at least CA and IN have a
process for old cars assembled from old parts, no smog ticket required.

A friend of mine owns a Caterham 7.  I forget just when it was assembled
(just a few years ago), but it's titled as a 1957 Lotus 7.  BTW, it's up for
sale if anyone is interested.  Friend decided it wasn't practical for him to
drive to work; and he wasn't interested in keeping two cars.
https://www.hillbankusa.com/vehicles/449/1957-caterham-seven-zetec
I'd buy it myself if I had a place to keep it (and $60K I didn't need).

I've been through the California state process with both my current TR3, and
one of the Stags.  The TR3 had an apparently valid commission number tag, so
they let me keep it even though I had no title.  The Stag's tag on the
B-post was pretty clearly tampered with (and the second one on the A-post
missing), so they assigned me a new number.  But still no smog ticket
required.

Getting a smog ticket is actually no big deal, as long as you get a suitable
model year assigned.  The model year is what determines both what equipment
is required, and what the limits are for the tailpipe.  Back in 1982, CA
required a smog check for every car changing hands; I've still got the
report where my 59 TR3A passed with flying colors.

-- Randall 

> Thanks Randall. Going down the kit car route is a 
> possibility. It appears as though it requires a smog 
> certificate, 


From kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Sat May 25 19:17:10 2019
From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer)
Date: Sat, 25 May 2019 18:17:10 -0700
Subject: [TR] Where is the TR4 frame number located
In-Reply-To: <AA96B20B9E4D430E89B0886A95E58749@RYPC>
References: <YTXPR0101MB2174629BF5EEF7ACA6D16AEBB6070@YTXPR0101MB2174.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
 <677219803.42199.1558400045588@connect.xfinity.com>
 <001a01d5132b$07007690$150163b0$@net>
 <E2401BFB-6DC3-4703-8366-18E510DD182E@ca.rr.com>
 <003101d51334$86a7aae0$93f700a0$@net> <AA96B20B9E4D430E89B0886A95E58749@RYPC>
Message-ID: <008301d51360$bee8e5a0$3cbab0e0$@net>

Thanks Randall. The car is in California. I did look up the process and
although it does look straight forward enough, it does say smog certificate
required so I guess the issue is determining the year of manufacture. New
commission plates are available from TRF, so fill in the blank and you're
good to go, I guess.

Sorry, no room for another vehicle, don't even have room for the ones I
have. I do like the Lotus 7, though.

Bob

-----Original Message-----
From: Randall [mailto:TR3driver at ca.rr.com] 
Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2019 4:17 PM
To: 'Kinderlehrer'; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] Where is the TR4 frame number located

Again, it probably depends on the state.  But at least CA and IN have a
process for old cars assembled from old parts, no smog ticket required.

A friend of mine owns a Caterham 7.  I forget just when it was assembled
(just a few years ago), but it's titled as a 1957 Lotus 7.  BTW, it's up for
sale if anyone is interested.  Friend decided it wasn't practical for him to
drive to work; and he wasn't interested in keeping two cars.
https://www.hillbankusa.com/vehicles/449/1957-caterham-seven-zetec
I'd buy it myself if I had a place to keep it (and $60K I didn't need).

I've been through the California state process with both my current TR3, and
one of the Stags.  The TR3 had an apparently valid commission number tag, so
they let me keep it even though I had no title.  The Stag's tag on the
B-post was pretty clearly tampered with (and the second one on the A-post
missing), so they assigned me a new number.  But still no smog ticket
required.

Getting a smog ticket is actually no big deal, as long as you get a suitable
model year assigned.  The model year is what determines both what equipment
is required, and what the limits are for the tailpipe.  Back in 1982, CA
required a smog check for every car changing hands; I've still got the
report where my 59 TR3A passed with flying colors.

-- Randall 

> Thanks Randall. Going down the kit car route is a possibility. It 
> appears as though it requires a smog certificate,



From kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Sat May 25 19:18:59 2019
From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer)
Date: Sat, 25 May 2019 18:18:59 -0700
Subject: [TR] Where is the TR4 frame number located
In-Reply-To: <C9D16FB7-1814-4953-AB44-91756CACB737@flash.net>
References: <YTXPR0101MB2174629BF5EEF7ACA6D16AEBB6070@YTXPR0101MB2174.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
 <677219803.42199.1558400045588@connect.xfinity.com>
 <001a01d5132b$07007690$150163b0$@net>
 <E2401BFB-6DC3-4703-8366-18E510DD182E@ca.rr.com>
 <003101d51334$86a7aae0$93f700a0$@net>
 <DF2E7741-00A0-4F96-9958-F9FE7F4E7F91@Ukpips.org.uk>
 <006701d51346$f43992f0$dcacb8d0$@net>
 <C9D16FB7-1814-4953-AB44-91756CACB737@flash.net>
Message-ID: <008701d51360$ffc55bd0$ff501370$@net>

Thanks Bill, there is a woman here (SF Bay Area) who does do a good job of getting titles for ghost cars.

 

Bob

 

From: Wbeech at flash.net [mailto:wbeech at flash.net] 
Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2019 4:33 PM
To: Kinderlehrer
Cc: John Macartney; triumphs at autox.team.net; Randall; Jim Kermode
Subject: Re: [TR] Where is the TR4 frame number located

 

Bob,

Title possibilities will depend on your state.  If a chassis number is required, they can assign one.  Texas used the motor number for cars older than 1955, except Fords.  

You can save s lot of grief and tail-chasing by calling an auto title service, pay a reasonable fee($250 for me) and let them guide you. 

 

BTDT,

Bill

 

On May 25, 2019, at 5:12 PM, Kinderlehrer <kinderlehrer at comcast.net> wrote:

Thanks John, I was told there was a number on my TR3 (don?t remember ever seeing it) and I?m pretty sure that there is a number stamped on my TR2000 Roadster frame (I think I saw that). Just thought here would be one on the TR4. 

This from the Roadster group, my car doesn?t look this good from underneath.

Bob

 

<image001.jpg>

 

 

 

From: John Macartney [mailto:John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk] 
Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2019 2:07 PM
To: Kinderlehrer
Cc: Randall; triumphs at autox.team.net; Jim Kermode
Subject: Re: [TR] Where is the TR4 frame number located

 

Bob, I don?t remember us ever recording or using frame ref numbers. In fact, don?t think frames were ever numbered from a production standpoint. Nearest you?ll get is/was the body number but the commission number was the most important of all.

 

Jonmac

Remember, it?s rarely a good idea to squat, unless you?ve already removed your spurs!


On 25 May 2019, at 21:00, Kinderlehrer <kinderlehrer at comcast.net> wrote:

Thanks Randall. Going down the kit car route is a possibility. It appears as though it requires a smog certificate, not sure how that would work with a Rover engine of who knows what vintage. All he has is a bill of sale, just thinking a frame number might be enough to get a TR4 title. There are some specialists that can work wonders with very little.

Bob

 

From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2019 12:05 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Where is the TR4 frame number located

 

There isn't one AFAIK. There might be a tag on top of the front cross member (under the engine) but if its there, its just a series number or something like that. There is nothing to identify a particular frame.

Depends on the state, but most of them have a process for assigning a new vin number to a car assembled from parts. The local DMV may not know much about it, but its there. And usually pretty easy, if you know how.
-- Randall

On 25 May 2019 11:52:36 GMT-07:00, Kinderlehrer <kinderlehrer at comcast.net> wrote:

A friend recently acquired a Devon bodied TR4, well, basically, practically the only thing that is left of the TR4 is the frame. He?s thinking of getting it titled, but has no number to go on and can?t seem to find the frame number. Does anyone know exactly where it is located?

 

Thanks,

Bob

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From wbeech at flash.net  Sat May 25 17:07:57 2019
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net)
Date: Sat, 25 May 2019 18:07:57 -0500
Subject: [TR] Where is the TR4 frame number located
In-Reply-To: <006701d51346$f43992f0$dcacb8d0$@net>
References: <YTXPR0101MB2174629BF5EEF7ACA6D16AEBB6070@YTXPR0101MB2174.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
 <677219803.42199.1558400045588@connect.xfinity.com>
 <001a01d5132b$07007690$150163b0$@net>
 <E2401BFB-6DC3-4703-8366-18E510DD182E@ca.rr.com>
 <003101d51334$86a7aae0$93f700a0$@net>
 <DF2E7741-00A0-4F96-9958-F9FE7F4E7F91@Ukpips.org.uk>
 <006701d51346$f43992f0$dcacb8d0$@net>
Message-ID: <56CFF1AC-89D8-445A-BB1F-4EC4B8D9EB39@flash.net>

Bob,
Of TR3 frames that I have known, the only number I have found is a plate on the top of the front cross member.   As John said, not a production serial number, maybe a date or assembly team?  IIRC the number on my ?58 was ?Z28?, didn?t go any faster though.  

Bill

On May 25, 2019, at 5:12 PM, Kinderlehrer <kinderlehrer at comcast.net> wrote:

Thanks John, I was told there was a number on my TR3 (don?t remember ever seeing it) and I?m pretty sure that there is a number stamped on my TR2000 Roadster frame (I think I saw that). Just thought here would be one on the TR4.
This from the Roadster group, my car doesn?t look this good from underneath.
Bob
 
<image001.jpg>
 
 
 
From: John Macartney [mailto:John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk] 
Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2019 2:07 PM
To: Kinderlehrer
Cc: Randall; triumphs at autox.team.net; Jim Kermode
Subject: Re: [TR] Where is the TR4 frame number located
 
Bob, I don?t remember us ever recording or using frame ref numbers. In fact, don?t think frames were ever numbered from a production standpoint. Nearest you?ll get is/was the body number but the commission number was the most important of all.
 
Jonmac

Remember, it?s rarely a good idea to squat, unless you?ve already removed your spurs!

On 25 May 2019, at 21:00, Kinderlehrer <kinderlehrer at comcast.net> wrote:

Thanks Randall. Going down the kit car route is a possibility. It appears as though it requires a smog certificate, not sure how that would work with a Rover engine of who knows what vintage. All he has is a bill of sale, just thinking a frame number might be enough to get a TR4 title. There are some specialists that can work wonders with very little.
Bob
 
From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2019 12:05 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Where is the TR4 frame number located
 
There isn't one AFAIK. There might be a tag on top of the front cross member (under the engine) but if its there, its just a series number or something like that. There is nothing to identify a particular frame.

Depends on the state, but most of them have a process for assigning a new vin number to a car assembled from parts. The local DMV may not know much about it, but its there. And usually pretty easy, if you know how.
-- Randall

On 25 May 2019 11:52:36 GMT-07:00, Kinderlehrer <kinderlehrer at comcast.net> wrote:
A friend recently acquired a Devon bodied TR4, well, basically, practically the only thing that is left of the TR4 is the frame. He?s thinking of getting it titled, but has no number to go on and can?t seem to find the frame number. Does anyone know exactly where it is located?
 
Thanks,
Bob
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive

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From wbeech at flash.net  Sat May 25 17:33:21 2019
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net)
Date: Sat, 25 May 2019 18:33:21 -0500
Subject: [TR] Where is the TR4 frame number located
In-Reply-To: <006701d51346$f43992f0$dcacb8d0$@net>
References: <YTXPR0101MB2174629BF5EEF7ACA6D16AEBB6070@YTXPR0101MB2174.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
 <677219803.42199.1558400045588@connect.xfinity.com>
 <001a01d5132b$07007690$150163b0$@net>
 <E2401BFB-6DC3-4703-8366-18E510DD182E@ca.rr.com>
 <003101d51334$86a7aae0$93f700a0$@net>
 <DF2E7741-00A0-4F96-9958-F9FE7F4E7F91@Ukpips.org.uk>
 <006701d51346$f43992f0$dcacb8d0$@net>
Message-ID: <C9D16FB7-1814-4953-AB44-91756CACB737@flash.net>

Bob,
Title possibilities will depend on your state.  If a chassis number is required, they can assign one.  Texas used the motor number for cars older than 1955, except Fords.  
You can save s lot of grief and tail-chasing by calling an auto title service, pay a reasonable fee($250 for me) and let them guide you. 

BTDT,
Bill

On May 25, 2019, at 5:12 PM, Kinderlehrer <kinderlehrer at comcast.net> wrote:

Thanks John, I was told there was a number on my TR3 (don?t remember ever seeing it) and I?m pretty sure that there is a number stamped on my TR2000 Roadster frame (I think I saw that). Just thought here would be one on the TR4.
This from the Roadster group, my car doesn?t look this good from underneath.
Bob
 
<image001.jpg>
 
 
 
From: John Macartney [mailto:John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk] 
Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2019 2:07 PM
To: Kinderlehrer
Cc: Randall; triumphs at autox.team.net; Jim Kermode
Subject: Re: [TR] Where is the TR4 frame number located
 
Bob, I don?t remember us ever recording or using frame ref numbers. In fact, don?t think frames were ever numbered from a production standpoint. Nearest you?ll get is/was the body number but the commission number was the most important of all.
 
Jonmac

Remember, it?s rarely a good idea to squat, unless you?ve already removed your spurs!

On 25 May 2019, at 21:00, Kinderlehrer <kinderlehrer at comcast.net> wrote:

Thanks Randall. Going down the kit car route is a possibility. It appears as though it requires a smog certificate, not sure how that would work with a Rover engine of who knows what vintage. All he has is a bill of sale, just thinking a frame number might be enough to get a TR4 title. There are some specialists that can work wonders with very little.
Bob
 
From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2019 12:05 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Where is the TR4 frame number located
 
There isn't one AFAIK. There might be a tag on top of the front cross member (under the engine) but if its there, its just a series number or something like that. There is nothing to identify a particular frame.

Depends on the state, but most of them have a process for assigning a new vin number to a car assembled from parts. The local DMV may not know much about it, but its there. And usually pretty easy, if you know how.
-- Randall

On 25 May 2019 11:52:36 GMT-07:00, Kinderlehrer <kinderlehrer at comcast.net> wrote:
A friend recently acquired a Devon bodied TR4, well, basically, practically the only thing that is left of the TR4 is the frame. He?s thinking of getting it titled, but has no number to go on and can?t seem to find the frame number. Does anyone know exactly where it is located?
 
Thanks,
Bob
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Sat May 25 19:10:03 2019
From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer)
Date: Sat, 25 May 2019 18:10:03 -0700
Subject: [TR] Where is the TR4 frame number located
In-Reply-To: <56CFF1AC-89D8-445A-BB1F-4EC4B8D9EB39@flash.net>
References: <YTXPR0101MB2174629BF5EEF7ACA6D16AEBB6070@YTXPR0101MB2174.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
 <677219803.42199.1558400045588@connect.xfinity.com>
 <001a01d5132b$07007690$150163b0$@net>
 <E2401BFB-6DC3-4703-8366-18E510DD182E@ca.rr.com>
 <003101d51334$86a7aae0$93f700a0$@net>
 <DF2E7741-00A0-4F96-9958-F9FE7F4E7F91@Ukpips.org.uk>
 <006701d51346$f43992f0$dcacb8d0$@net>
 <56CFF1AC-89D8-445A-BB1F-4EC4B8D9EB39@flash.net>
Message-ID: <007e01d5135f$c06e4290$414ac7b0$@net>

Thanks Bill, That must be the number I was told about on the TR3. I guess the number would be meaningless if it couldn?t be proven to unique.

 

Bob

 

From: Wbeech at flash.net [mailto:wbeech at flash.net] 
Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2019 4:08 PM
To: Kinderlehrer
Cc: John Macartney; triumphs at autox.team.net; Randall; Jim Kermode
Subject: Re: [TR] Where is the TR4 frame number located

 

Bob,

Of TR3 frames that I have known, the only number I have found is a plate on the top of the front cross member.   As John said, not a production serial number, maybe a date or assembly team?  IIRC the number on my ?58 was ?Z28?, didn?t go any faster though.  

 

Bill


On May 25, 2019, at 5:12 PM, Kinderlehrer <kinderlehrer at comcast.net> wrote:

Thanks John, I was told there was a number on my TR3 (don?t remember ever seeing it) and I?m pretty sure that there is a number stamped on my TR2000 Roadster frame (I think I saw that). Just thought here would be one on the TR4. 

This from the Roadster group, my car doesn?t look this good from underneath.

Bob

 

<image001.jpg>

 

 

 

From: John Macartney [mailto:John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk] 
Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2019 2:07 PM
To: Kinderlehrer
Cc: Randall; triumphs at autox.team.net; Jim Kermode
Subject: Re: [TR] Where is the TR4 frame number located

 

Bob, I don?t remember us ever recording or using frame ref numbers. In fact, don?t think frames were ever numbered from a production standpoint. Nearest you?ll get is/was the body number but the commission number was the most important of all.

 

Jonmac

Remember, it?s rarely a good idea to squat, unless you?ve already removed your spurs!


On 25 May 2019, at 21:00, Kinderlehrer <kinderlehrer at comcast.net> wrote:

Thanks Randall. Going down the kit car route is a possibility. It appears as though it requires a smog certificate, not sure how that would work with a Rover engine of who knows what vintage. All he has is a bill of sale, just thinking a frame number might be enough to get a TR4 title. There are some specialists that can work wonders with very little.

Bob

 

From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2019 12:05 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Where is the TR4 frame number located

 

There isn't one AFAIK. There might be a tag on top of the front cross member (under the engine) but if its there, its just a series number or something like that. There is nothing to identify a particular frame.

Depends on the state, but most of them have a process for assigning a new vin number to a car assembled from parts. The local DMV may not know much about it, but its there. And usually pretty easy, if you know how.
-- Randall

On 25 May 2019 11:52:36 GMT-07:00, Kinderlehrer <kinderlehrer at comcast.net> wrote:

A friend recently acquired a Devon bodied TR4, well, basically, practically the only thing that is left of the TR4 is the frame. He?s thinking of getting it titled, but has no number to go on and can?t seem to find the frame number. Does anyone know exactly where it is located?

 

Thanks,

Bob

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk  Sun May 26 03:37:41 2019
From: John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Sun, 26 May 2019 10:37:41 +0100
Subject: [TR] Where is the TR4 frame number located
In-Reply-To: <56CFF1AC-89D8-445A-BB1F-4EC4B8D9EB39@flash.net>
References: <YTXPR0101MB2174629BF5EEF7ACA6D16AEBB6070@YTXPR0101MB2174.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
 <677219803.42199.1558400045588@connect.xfinity.com>
 <001a01d5132b$07007690$150163b0$@net>
 <E2401BFB-6DC3-4703-8366-18E510DD182E@ca.rr.com>
 <003101d51334$86a7aae0$93f700a0$@net>
 <DF2E7741-00A0-4F96-9958-F9FE7F4E7F91@Ukpips.org.uk>
 <006701d51346$f43992f0$dcacb8d0$@net>
 <56CFF1AC-89D8-445A-BB1F-4EC4B8D9EB39@flash.net>
Message-ID: <4D1397CF-AAE5-43BB-AFD3-0320AE8CCC23@Ukpips.org.uk>

IIRC, all chassis were made by a firm called Sankey. Highly likely they?d have a build number for their own purposes but I never remember seeing that type of number or descriptor on the vehicle build sheet aka ?the tally?.

Jonmac

Remember, it?s rarely a good idea to squat, unless you?ve already removed your spurs!

> On 26 May 2019, at 00:07, Wbeech at flash.net <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:
> 
> Bob,
> Of TR3 frames that I have known, the only number I have found is a plate on the top of the front cross member.   As John said, not a production serial number, maybe a date or assembly team?  IIRC the number on my ?58 was ?Z28?, didn?t go any faster though.  
> 
> Bill
> 
> On May 25, 2019, at 5:12 PM, Kinderlehrer <kinderlehrer at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> Thanks John, I was told there was a number on my TR3 (don?t remember ever seeing it) and I?m pretty sure that there is a number stamped on my TR2000 Roadster frame (I think I saw that). Just thought here would be one on the TR4.
> This from the Roadster group, my car doesn?t look this good from underneath.
> Bob
>  
> <image001.jpg>
>  
>  
>  
> From: John Macartney [mailto:John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk] 
> Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2019 2:07 PM
> To: Kinderlehrer
> Cc: Randall; triumphs at autox.team.net; Jim Kermode
> Subject: Re: [TR] Where is the TR4 frame number located
>  
> Bob, I don?t remember us ever recording or using frame ref numbers. In fact, don?t think frames were ever numbered from a production standpoint. Nearest you?ll get is/was the body number but the commission number was the most important of all.
>  
> Jonmac
> 
> Remember, it?s rarely a good idea to squat, unless you?ve already removed your spurs!
> 
> On 25 May 2019, at 21:00, Kinderlehrer <kinderlehrer at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> Thanks Randall. Going down the kit car route is a possibility. It appears as though it requires a smog certificate, not sure how that would work with a Rover engine of who knows what vintage. All he has is a bill of sale, just thinking a frame number might be enough to get a TR4 title. There are some specialists that can work wonders with very little.
> Bob
>  
> From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall
> Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2019 12:05 PM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] Where is the TR4 frame number located
>  
> There isn't one AFAIK. There might be a tag on top of the front cross member (under the engine) but if its there, its just a series number or something like that. There is nothing to identify a particular frame.
> 
> Depends on the state, but most of them have a process for assigning a new vin number to a car assembled from parts. The local DMV may not know much about it, but its there. And usually pretty easy, if you know how.
> -- Randall
> 
> On 25 May 2019 11:52:36 GMT-07:00, Kinderlehrer <kinderlehrer at comcast.net> wrote:
> A friend recently acquired a Devon bodied TR4, well, basically, practically the only thing that is left of the TR4 is the frame. He?s thinking of getting it titled, but has no number to go on and can?t seem to find the frame number. Does anyone know exactly where it is located?
>  
> Thanks,
> Bob
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net
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From kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Sun May 26 14:20:08 2019
From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer)
Date: Sun, 26 May 2019 13:20:08 -0700
Subject: [TR] Where is the TR4 frame number located
In-Reply-To: <4D1397CF-AAE5-43BB-AFD3-0320AE8CCC23@Ukpips.org.uk>
References: <YTXPR0101MB2174629BF5EEF7ACA6D16AEBB6070@YTXPR0101MB2174.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>	<677219803.42199.1558400045588@connect.xfinity.com>	<001a01d5132b$07007690$150163b0$@net>	<E2401BFB-6DC3-4703-8366-18E510DD182E@ca.rr.com>	<003101d51334$86a7aae0$93f700a0$@net>	<DF2E7741-00A0-4F96-9958-F9FE7F4E7F91@Ukpips.org.uk>	<006701d51346$f43992f0$dcacb8d0$@net>	<56CFF1AC-89D8-445A-BB1F-4EC4B8D9EB39@flash.net>
 <4D1397CF-AAE5-43BB-AFD3-0320AE8CCC23@Ukpips.org.uk>
Message-ID: <001d01d51400$6aa177a0$3fe466e0$@net>

Thanks, that explains a lot.

 

Bob

 

 

From: John Macartney [mailto:John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk] 
Sent: Sunday, May 26, 2019 2:38 AM
To: Wbeech at flash.net
Cc: Kinderlehrer; triumphs at autox.team.net; Randall; Jim Kermode
Subject: Re: [TR] Where is the TR4 frame number located

 

IIRC, all chassis were made by a firm called Sankey. Highly likely they?d have a build number for their own purposes but I never remember seeing that type of number or descriptor on the vehicle build sheet aka ?the tally?.

 

Jonmac

Remember, it?s rarely a good idea to squat, unless you?ve already removed your spurs!


On 26 May 2019, at 00:07, Wbeech at flash.net <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:

Bob,

Of TR3 frames that I have known, the only number I have found is a plate on the top of the front cross member.   As John said, not a production serial number, maybe a date or assembly team?  IIRC the number on my ?58 was ?Z28?, didn?t go any faster though.  

 

Bill


On May 25, 2019, at 5:12 PM, Kinderlehrer <kinderlehrer at comcast.net> wrote:

Thanks John, I was told there was a number on my TR3 (don?t remember ever seeing it) and I?m pretty sure that there is a number stamped on my TR2000 Roadster frame (I think I saw that). Just thought here would be one on the TR4. 

This from the Roadster group, my car doesn?t look this good from underneath.

Bob

 

<image001.jpg>

 

 

 

From: John Macartney [mailto:John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk] 
Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2019 2:07 PM
To: Kinderlehrer
Cc: Randall; triumphs at autox.team.net; Jim Kermode
Subject: Re: [TR] Where is the TR4 frame number located

 

Bob, I don?t remember us ever recording or using frame ref numbers. In fact, don?t think frames were ever numbered from a production standpoint. Nearest you?ll get is/was the body number but the commission number was the most important of all.

 

Jonmac

Remember, it?s rarely a good idea to squat, unless you?ve already removed your spurs!


On 25 May 2019, at 21:00, Kinderlehrer <kinderlehrer at comcast.net> wrote:

Thanks Randall. Going down the kit car route is a possibility. It appears as though it requires a smog certificate, not sure how that would work with a Rover engine of who knows what vintage. All he has is a bill of sale, just thinking a frame number might be enough to get a TR4 title. There are some specialists that can work wonders with very little.

Bob

 

From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2019 12:05 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Where is the TR4 frame number located

 

There isn't one AFAIK. There might be a tag on top of the front cross member (under the engine) but if its there, its just a series number or something like that. There is nothing to identify a particular frame.

Depends on the state, but most of them have a process for assigning a new vin number to a car assembled from parts. The local DMV may not know much about it, but its there. And usually pretty easy, if you know how.
-- Randall

On 25 May 2019 11:52:36 GMT-07:00, Kinderlehrer <kinderlehrer at comcast.net> wrote:

A friend recently acquired a Devon bodied TR4, well, basically, practically the only thing that is left of the TR4 is the frame. He?s thinking of getting it titled, but has no number to go on and can?t seem to find the frame number. Does anyone know exactly where it is located?

 

Thanks,

Bob

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From davidt at opentext.com  Sun May 26 17:06:06 2019
From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton)
Date: Sun, 26 May 2019 23:06:06 +0000
Subject: [TR] Finally some progress
Message-ID: <YTXPR0101MB21745135E7B2C3095C41C9F4B61C0@YTXPR0101MB2174.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>


For the longest time, it really seems like decades, oh hold on 15yrs ( really long story, a long boring story ).  I have been searching for a replacement gearbox for the spitsix.  Namely the gearset and main case.  Well, a number of weeks ago I picked up a MKIV-non-OD gearbox.  Pristine shape.  Yesterday, got ahold of a MKII GT6 ( KC series ) and today got another MKII GT6, again KC series.

Looking at all these parts etc and now I have a bazzilion questions, first the points I know


  1.  I know the input shaft is matched to the depth of the bell house and has less but thicker splines.  All good
  2.  I know that the input/first gear of the GT6 box is a different ratio than a spitfire.  I can scream a GT6 in first for a while ( younger year stunt, but still sounded cool )
  3.  The input gear has a different number of teeth than the MKIV
  4.  The mainshaft for the OD is different, I need to get one of those still to attach my OD unit.

Nowwwww, for the questions

  1.  The GT6 box is considered "weak", I know the needle bearings on the laygear are generally crap and that Quantum will put bushings in ( we will come to that )
  2.  What is the mechainical difference of the MKII ( KC ) and the MKIII ( KF ), is there any in reality that make a difference?
  3.  The laygears look exactyl the same between the MKIV and the MKII, are they really the same?
  4.  With the stated diffference of the input and first gear, what are the differences in the spit MKIV and gt6 MKII/III?  Again visually they look the same
  5.  In the end, what can I mix and match? does it matter? Is it OMG don't do this?
  6.  Can the bushings on the laygear, can anyone with a machine shop do this?  I john at Quantum still doing this?
  7.  Has anyone replaced the needle bearings with roller bearings?  Or not strong enough?

I need to be educated by the masters of this list.

Thanks
David Templeton

'59 tr3a - damn she is fast and wonderful to be driving again.  In shakedown mode.
'74 spitsix - there is a light forming at the end of the tunnel, a light where the engine and rear diff may talk to each other again



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From ptegler at verizon.net  Sun May 26 18:53:01 2019
From: ptegler at verizon.net (Paul Tegler)
Date: Sun, 26 May 2019 20:53:01 -0400
Subject: [TR] Finally some progress
In-Reply-To: <YTXPR0101MB21745135E7B2C3095C41C9F4B61C0@YTXPR0101MB2174.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
References: <YTXPR0101MB21745135E7B2C3095C41C9F4B61C0@YTXPR0101MB2174.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
Message-ID: <2e8e2842-552c-a820-edcc-f7e79b5bd5d1@verizon.net>

I've been pulling 136HP though FIS6's (might be down around 125 now)? 
GT6 MKIII box for nearly 12 years now.
Long distance road trips to, and laps on, then driving home from Road 
Atlanta, Watkins Glen, Mid Ohio and Lime Rock ....have never had a 
single issue with that tranny.
It's not a week box.... it's the way the driver dumps the clutch, 
attempts to power shift, or shocks the gears shifting the O/D under 
heavy load? that will kill those boxes,,,and
having been rebuilt with the improper (too much) clearance between gears 
usually resulting in the third gear circlip jumping it's groove from too 
much side load, letting the whole box go to sh__.

note:? spec'ed use... slip the clutch with a D-type o/d when 
shifting...not needed on the j-type, but neither is supposed to be 
shifted in or out under load.

The GT6 has a larger (than the Spit box) tip on the main shaft that 
rides in the end of the input shaft.? I rebuilt a tranny for a friend 
that had that tip sheared off the end of the main shaft!
The half rings and collar were destroyed, Shifting was super hard but he 
still drove it for awhile. That's how it was when he bought the car.

BUT.... after examining the break, you could see is was a stress riser 
at one of the cogs on the shaft... it had been slowly cracking for quite 
some time before it sheared . You could see 1/3 was totally different 
metal texture...the other 2/3rd was the crystalline structure you'd 
expect from a crack vs the slow 'rip' of the first 1/3rd of the break. 
So actually...it was a defective or mis-machined shaft,

I've never seen a box (have rebuilt at least 12 now Spits and Gt6) with 
damaged needle bearings...although I've seen massive wear on the shaft. 
Simply stated...they were run with the improper volume of oil, plain and 
simple.? Years back there was a massive issue with the supply chain, as 
replacement needle bearings were slightly oversized causing all kinds of 
problems.
Mike Ross (out in Ohio) did a great write-up on them years back.

Early and late boxes had different diameter synchros. At least the Spits 
did, so assume too the GT6 boxes? (have never personally rebuilt a 
MKI/II GT6 box)? I'm fairly certain the gear ratios never changed. The 
other variance is a 17 or 22 tooth reverse gear configuration. 
early/late..can't remember off-hand which is which

And believe it or not.... you CAN mount a J-type o/d to a three rail GT6 
box. main shafts are avail...usually cheaper than the more common d-type 
shaft.

ptegler

ymmv ...only yacking from personal experience?? :-)

ptegler

On 5/26/2019 7:06 PM, David Templeton wrote:
>
> For the longest time, it really seems like decades, oh hold on 15yrs ( 
> really long story, a long boring story ).? I have been searching for a 
> replacement gearbox for the spitsix.? Namely the gearset and main 
> case.? Well, a number of weeks ago I picked up a MKIV-non-OD gearbox. 
> Pristine shape.? Yesterday, got ahold of a MKII GT6 ( KC series ) and 
> today got another MKII GT6, again KC series.
>
> Looking at all these parts etc and now I have a bazzilion questions, 
> first the points I know
>
>  1. I know the input shaft is matched to the depth of the bell house
>     and has less but thicker splines.? All good
>  2. I know that the input/first gear of the GT6 box is a different
>     ratio than a spitfire.? I can scream a GT6 in first for a while (
>     younger year stunt, but still sounded cool )
>  3. The input gear has a different number of teeth than the MKIV
>  4. The mainshaft for the OD is different, I need to get one of those
>     still to attach my OD unit.
>
> Nowwwww, for the questions
>
>  1. The GT6 box is considered ?weak?, I know the needle bearings on
>     the laygear are generally crap and that Quantum will put bushings
>     in ( we will come to that )
>  2. What is the mechainical difference of the MKII ( KC ) and the
>     MKIII ( KF ), is there any in reality that make a difference?
>  3. The laygears look exactyl the same between the MKIV and the MKII,
>     are they really the same?
>  4. With the stated diffference of the input and first gear, what are
>     the differences in the spit MKIV and gt6 MKII/III?? Again visually
>     they look the same
>  5. In the end, what can I mix and match? does it matter? Is it OMG
>     don?t do this?
>  6. Can the bushings on the laygear, can anyone with a machine shop do
>     this?? I john at Quantum still doing this?
>  7. Has anyone replaced the needle bearings with roller bearings?? Or
>     not strong enough?
>
> I need to be educated by the masters of this list.
>
> Thanks
>
> David Templeton
>
> ?59 tr3a ? damn she is fast and wonderful to be driving again.? In 
> shakedown mode.
>
> ?74 spitsix ? there is a light forming at the end of the tunnel, a 
> light where the engine and rear diff may talk to each other again
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net

-- 
Paul Tegler
ptegler at verizon.net  www.teglerizer.com

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From davidt at opentext.com  Sun May 26 20:23:48 2019
From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2019 02:23:48 +0000
Subject: [TR] [EXTERNAL] - Re:  Finally some progress
In-Reply-To: <2e8e2842-552c-a820-edcc-f7e79b5bd5d1@verizon.net>
References: <YTXPR0101MB21745135E7B2C3095C41C9F4B61C0@YTXPR0101MB2174.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
 <2e8e2842-552c-a820-edcc-f7e79b5bd5d1@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <YTXPR0101MB217466C822928A42BFD2D02DB61D0@YTXPR0101MB2174.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>

I've never seen a box (have rebuilt at least 12 now Spits and Gt6) with damaged needle bearings...although I've seen massive wear on the shaft. Simply stated...they were run with the improper volume of oil, plain and simple.? Years back there was a massive issue with the supply chain, as replacement needle bearings were slightly oversized causing all kinds of problems.
Mike Ross (out in Ohio) did a great write-up on them years back.
Yeap, that is what happened to mine.  It was 2003 ?  thus leading to the second rebuild and the loosing of the box.

I've been pulling 136HP though FIS6's (might be down around 125 now)? GT6 MKIII box for nearly 12 years now.
Long distance road trips to, and laps on, then driving home from Road Atlanta, Watkins Glen, Mid Ohio and Lime Rock ....have never had a single issue with that tranny.

When it was running I never had issues either, barring the needle bearings ?  That is why I find it interesting in such comments.


And believe it or not.... you CAN mount a J-type o/d to a three rail GT6 box. main shafts are avail...usually cheaper than the more common d-type shaft.

I do have the OD unit
[No photo description available.]
There is supposedly a good place out of the UK to get OD-mainshafts????  Other vendors?

I am thinking this refresh kit unless others have a suggestion https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-RG1183

Ok, well your mileage has been exceptional so I would consider your experience worth following ?

Next steps?


David



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From ptegler at verizon.net  Mon May 27 00:12:41 2019
From: ptegler at verizon.net (Paul Tegler)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2019 02:12:41 -0400
Subject: [TR] [EXTERNAL] - Re:  Finally some progress
In-Reply-To: <YTXPR0101MB217466C822928A42BFD2D02DB61D0@YTXPR0101MB2174.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
References: <YTXPR0101MB21745135E7B2C3095C41C9F4B61C0@YTXPR0101MB2174.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
 <2e8e2842-552c-a820-edcc-f7e79b5bd5d1@verizon.net>
 <YTXPR0101MB217466C822928A42BFD2D02DB61D0@YTXPR0101MB2174.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
Message-ID: <efdc5013-0c59-efb0-b026-c65abe66dd8c@verizon.net>

Nigel (spitbits.com in California?) still carries them 
https://www.spitbits.com/store/Main-Shaft-C271.aspx 
<https://www.spitbits.com/store/Main-Shaft-C271.aspx>bottom of the page

ptegler


On 5/26/2019 10:23 PM, David Templeton wrote:
>
> */I've never seen a box (have rebuilt at least 12 now Spits and Gt6) 
> with damaged needle bearings...although I've seen massive wear on the 
> shaft. Simply stated...they were run with the improper volume of oil, 
> plain and simple.? Years back there was a massive issue with the 
> supply chain, as replacement needle bearings were slightly oversized 
> causing all kinds of problems.
> Mike Ross (out in Ohio) did a great write-up on them years back./*
>
> Yeap, that is what happened to mine.?? It was 2003 ?????? thus leading to 
> the second rebuild and the loosing of the box.
>
> */I've been pulling 136HP though FIS6's (might be down around 125 
> now)? GT6 MKIII box for nearly 12 years now.
> Long distance road trips to, and laps on, then driving home from Road 
> Atlanta, Watkins Glen, Mid Ohio and Lime Rock ....have never had a 
> single issue with that tranny./**//*
>
> When it was running I never had issues either, barring the needle 
> bearings ?????? That is why I find it interesting in such comments.
>
> */And believe it or not.... you CAN mount a J-type o/d to a three rail 
> GT6 box. main shafts are avail...usually cheaper than the more common 
> d-type shaft./*
>
> I do have the OD unit
>
> No photo description available.
>
> There is supposedly a good place out of the UK to get 
> OD-mainshafts?????? Other vendors?
>
> I am thinking this refresh kit unless others have a suggestion 
> https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-RG1183
>
> Ok, well your mileage has been exceptional so I would consider your 
> experience worth following ????
>
> Next steps?
>
> David
>
-- 
Paul Tegler
ptegler at verizon.net  www.teglerizer.com

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From erkanhassan at yahoo.com  Mon May 27 13:09:03 2019
From: erkanhassan at yahoo.com (Erkan Hassan)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2019 15:09:03 -0400
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 12, Issue 112
In-Reply-To: <mailman.14.1558980003.11414.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.14.1558980003.11414.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <952C51D2-5ADC-4579-BF1D-B05162770716@yahoo.com>

GOAL: to be driving on Memorial Day...FAIL!

Last July 4, removed 62, Tr3 b apron...replaced radiator, water pump, timing chain. And a few side pieces ( new fender mirrors and hood brackets).
Flushed engine several times...went from 57 year old mud to clear.
As long as apart, wire wheeled rust areas, rust stabilizer and primer.
Tune up w new plugs, points, etc.

Put it all together this weekend with goal for driving before Memorial Day over.
Cleaned all the wheels from winter storage

Only thing left was oil change. Then wax her.
Pull car out of garage and low and behold...NO BRAKES

Reservoir completely dry....AAARRGGGGGHHHHH.

Will have to fill and see if a winter critter ate thru a line.  If not, then I have no idea where the brake fluid went to.  But as usual, as long as empty, might as well replace the 57 year old rusted reservoir.

Failed today
Erkan

Sent from my iPad

> On May 27, 2019, at 2:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:
> 
> Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to
>    triumphs at autox.team.net
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>    http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>    triumphs-request at autox.team.net
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>    triumphs-owner at autox.team.net
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. Re: Where is the TR4 frame number located (Kinderlehrer)
>   2. Finally some progress (David Templeton)
>   3. Re: Finally some progress (Paul Tegler)
>   4. Re: [EXTERNAL] - Re:  Finally some progress (David Templeton)
>   5. Re: [EXTERNAL] - Re:  Finally some progress (Paul Tegler)
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Sun, 26 May 2019 13:20:08 -0700
> From: "Kinderlehrer" <kinderlehrer at comcast.net>
> To: "'John Macartney'" <John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk>
> Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>,    "'Jim Kermode'" <jrkermode at gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [TR] Where is the TR4 frame number located
> Message-ID: <001d01d51400$6aa177a0$3fe466e0$@net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Thanks, that explains a lot.
> 
> 
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From: John Macartney [mailto:John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk] 
> Sent: Sunday, May 26, 2019 2:38 AM
> To: Wbeech at flash.net
> Cc: Kinderlehrer; triumphs at autox.team.net; Randall; Jim Kermode
> Subject: Re: [TR] Where is the TR4 frame number located
> 
> 
> 
> IIRC, all chassis were made by a firm called Sankey. Highly likely they?d have a build number for their own purposes but I never remember seeing that type of number or descriptor on the vehicle build sheet aka ?the tally?.
> 
> 
> 
> Jonmac
> 
> Remember, it?s rarely a good idea to squat, unless you?ve already removed your spurs!
> 
> 
> On 26 May 2019, at 00:07, Wbeech at flash.net <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Of TR3 frames that I have known, the only number I have found is a plate on the top of the front cross member.   As John said, not a production serial number, maybe a date or assembly team?  IIRC the number on my ?58 was ?Z28?, didn?t go any faster though.  
> 
> 
> 
> Bill
> 
> 
> On May 25, 2019, at 5:12 PM, Kinderlehrer <kinderlehrer at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> Thanks John, I was told there was a number on my TR3 (don?t remember ever seeing it) and I?m pretty sure that there is a number stamped on my TR2000 Roadster frame (I think I saw that). Just thought here would be one on the TR4. 
> 
> This from the Roadster group, my car doesn?t look this good from underneath.
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> 
> <image001.jpg>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From: John Macartney [mailto:John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk] 
> Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2019 2:07 PM
> To: Kinderlehrer
> Cc: Randall; triumphs at autox.team.net; Jim Kermode
> Subject: Re: [TR] Where is the TR4 frame number located
> 
> 
> 
> Bob, I don?t remember us ever recording or using frame ref numbers. In fact, don?t think frames were ever numbered from a production standpoint. Nearest you?ll get is/was the body number but the commission number was the most important of all.
> 
> 
> 
> Jonmac
> 
> Remember, it?s rarely a good idea to squat, unless you?ve already removed your spurs!
> 
> 
> On 25 May 2019, at 21:00, Kinderlehrer <kinderlehrer at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> Thanks Randall. Going down the kit car route is a possibility. It appears as though it requires a smog certificate, not sure how that would work with a Rover engine of who knows what vintage. All he has is a bill of sale, just thinking a frame number might be enough to get a TR4 title. There are some specialists that can work wonders with very little.
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> 
> From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall
> Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2019 12:05 PM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] Where is the TR4 frame number located
> 
> 
> 
> There isn't one AFAIK. There might be a tag on top of the front cross member (under the engine) but if its there, its just a series number or something like that. There is nothing to identify a particular frame.
> 
> Depends on the state, but most of them have a process for assigning a new vin number to a car assembled from parts. The local DMV may not know much about it, but its there. And usually pretty easy, if you know how.
> -- Randall
> 
> On 25 May 2019 11:52:36 GMT-07:00, Kinderlehrer <kinderlehrer at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> A friend recently acquired a Devon bodied TR4, well, basically, practically the only thing that is left of the TR4 is the frame. He?s thinking of getting it titled, but has no number to go on and can?t seem to find the frame number. Does anyone know exactly where it is located?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Bob
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net
> 
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Sun, 26 May 2019 23:06:06 +0000
> From: David Templeton <davidt at opentext.com>
> To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [TR] Finally some progress
> Message-ID:
>    <YTXPR0101MB21745135E7B2C3095C41C9F4B61C0 at YTXPR0101MB2174.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
>    
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> 
> For the longest time, it really seems like decades, oh hold on 15yrs ( really long story, a long boring story ).  I have been searching for a replacement gearbox for the spitsix.  Namely the gearset and main case.  Well, a number of weeks ago I picked up a MKIV-non-OD gearbox.  Pristine shape.  Yesterday, got ahold of a MKII GT6 ( KC series ) and today got another MKII GT6, again KC series.
> 
> Looking at all these parts etc and now I have a bazzilion questions, first the points I know
> 
> 
>  1.  I know the input shaft is matched to the depth of the bell house and has less but thicker splines.  All good
>  2.  I know that the input/first gear of the GT6 box is a different ratio than a spitfire.  I can scream a GT6 in first for a while ( younger year stunt, but still sounded cool )
>  3.  The input gear has a different number of teeth than the MKIV
>  4.  The mainshaft for the OD is different, I need to get one of those still to attach my OD unit.
> 
> Nowwwww, for the questions
> 
>  1.  The GT6 box is considered "weak", I know the needle bearings on the laygear are generally crap and that Quantum will put bushings in ( we will come to that )
>  2.  What is the mechainical difference of the MKII ( KC ) and the MKIII ( KF ), is there any in reality that make a difference?
>  3.  The laygears look exactyl the same between the MKIV and the MKII, are they really the same?
>  4.  With the stated diffference of the input and first gear, what are the differences in the spit MKIV and gt6 MKII/III?  Again visually they look the same
>  5.  In the end, what can I mix and match? does it matter? Is it OMG don't do this?
>  6.  Can the bushings on the laygear, can anyone with a machine shop do this?  I john at Quantum still doing this?
>  7.  Has anyone replaced the needle bearings with roller bearings?  Or not strong enough?
> 
> I need to be educated by the masters of this list.
> 
> Thanks
> David Templeton
> 
> '59 tr3a - damn she is fast and wonderful to be driving again.  In shakedown mode.
> '74 spitsix - there is a light forming at the end of the tunnel, a light where the engine and rear diff may talk to each other again
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 3
> Date: Sun, 26 May 2019 20:53:01 -0400
> From: Paul Tegler <ptegler at verizon.net>
> To: David Templeton <davidt at opentext.com>, "triumphs at autox.team.net"
>    <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] Finally some progress
> Message-ID: <2e8e2842-552c-a820-edcc-f7e79b5bd5d1 at verizon.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"; Format="flowed"
> 
> I've been pulling 136HP though FIS6's (might be down around 125 now)? 
> GT6 MKIII box for nearly 12 years now.
> Long distance road trips to, and laps on, then driving home from Road 
> Atlanta, Watkins Glen, Mid Ohio and Lime Rock ....have never had a 
> single issue with that tranny.
> It's not a week box.... it's the way the driver dumps the clutch, 
> attempts to power shift, or shocks the gears shifting the O/D under 
> heavy load? that will kill those boxes,,,and
> having been rebuilt with the improper (too much) clearance between gears 
> usually resulting in the third gear circlip jumping it's groove from too 
> much side load, letting the whole box go to sh__.
> 
> note:? spec'ed use... slip the clutch with a D-type o/d when 
> shifting...not needed on the j-type, but neither is supposed to be 
> shifted in or out under load.
> 
> The GT6 has a larger (than the Spit box) tip on the main shaft that 
> rides in the end of the input shaft.? I rebuilt a tranny for a friend 
> that had that tip sheared off the end of the main shaft!
> The half rings and collar were destroyed, Shifting was super hard but he 
> still drove it for awhile. That's how it was when he bought the car.
> 
> BUT.... after examining the break, you could see is was a stress riser 
> at one of the cogs on the shaft... it had been slowly cracking for quite 
> some time before it sheared . You could see 1/3 was totally different 
> metal texture...the other 2/3rd was the crystalline structure you'd 
> expect from a crack vs the slow 'rip' of the first 1/3rd of the break. 
> So actually...it was a defective or mis-machined shaft,
> 
> I've never seen a box (have rebuilt at least 12 now Spits and Gt6) with 
> damaged needle bearings...although I've seen massive wear on the shaft. 
> Simply stated...they were run with the improper volume of oil, plain and 
> simple.? Years back there was a massive issue with the supply chain, as 
> replacement needle bearings were slightly oversized causing all kinds of 
> problems.
> Mike Ross (out in Ohio) did a great write-up on them years back.
> 
> Early and late boxes had different diameter synchros. At least the Spits 
> did, so assume too the GT6 boxes? (have never personally rebuilt a 
> MKI/II GT6 box)? I'm fairly certain the gear ratios never changed. The 
> other variance is a 17 or 22 tooth reverse gear configuration. 
> early/late..can't remember off-hand which is which
> 
> And believe it or not.... you CAN mount a J-type o/d to a three rail GT6 
> box. main shafts are avail...usually cheaper than the more common d-type 
> shaft.
> 
> ptegler
> 
> ymmv ...only yacking from personal experience?? :-)
> 
> ptegler
> 
>> On 5/26/2019 7:06 PM, David Templeton wrote:
>> 
>> For the longest time, it really seems like decades, oh hold on 15yrs ( 
>> really long story, a long boring story ).? I have been searching for a 
>> replacement gearbox for the spitsix.? Namely the gearset and main 
>> case.? Well, a number of weeks ago I picked up a MKIV-non-OD gearbox. 
>> Pristine shape.? Yesterday, got ahold of a MKII GT6 ( KC series ) and 
>> today got another MKII GT6, again KC series.
>> 
>> Looking at all these parts etc and now I have a bazzilion questions, 
>> first the points I know
>> 
>> 1. I know the input shaft is matched to the depth of the bell house
>>    and has less but thicker splines.? All good
>> 2. I know that the input/first gear of the GT6 box is a different
>>    ratio than a spitfire.? I can scream a GT6 in first for a while (
>>    younger year stunt, but still sounded cool )
>> 3. The input gear has a different number of teeth than the MKIV
>> 4. The mainshaft for the OD is different, I need to get one of those
>>    still to attach my OD unit.
>> 
>> Nowwwww, for the questions
>> 
>> 1. The GT6 box is considered ?weak?, I know the needle bearings on
>>    the laygear are generally crap and that Quantum will put bushings
>>    in ( we will come to that )
>> 2. What is the mechainical difference of the MKII ( KC ) and the
>>    MKIII ( KF ), is there any in reality that make a difference?
>> 3. The laygears look exactyl the same between the MKIV and the MKII,
>>    are they really the same?
>> 4. With the stated diffference of the input and first gear, what are
>>    the differences in the spit MKIV and gt6 MKII/III?? Again visually
>>    they look the same
>> 5. In the end, what can I mix and match? does it matter? Is it OMG
>>    don?t do this?
>> 6. Can the bushings on the laygear, can anyone with a machine shop do
>>    this?? I john at Quantum still doing this?
>> 7. Has anyone replaced the needle bearings with roller bearings?? Or
>>    not strong enough?
>> 
>> I need to be educated by the masters of this list.
>> 
>> Thanks
>> 
>> David Templeton
>> 
>> ?59 tr3a ? damn she is fast and wonderful to be driving again.? In 
>> shakedown mode.
>> 
>> ?74 spitsix ? there is a light forming at the end of the tunnel, a 
>> light where the engine and rear diff may talk to each other again
>> 
>> 
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net
> 
> -- 
> Paul Tegler
> ptegler at verizon.net  www.teglerizer.com
> 
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 4
> Date: Mon, 27 May 2019 02:23:48 +0000
> From: David Templeton <davidt at opentext.com>
> To: "ptegler at verizon.net" <ptegler at verizon.net>,
>    "triumphs at autox.team.net" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] [EXTERNAL] - Re:  Finally some progress
> Message-ID:
>    <YTXPR0101MB217466C822928A42BFD2D02DB61D0 at YTXPR0101MB2174.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
>    
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> I've never seen a box (have rebuilt at least 12 now Spits and Gt6) with damaged needle bearings...although I've seen massive wear on the shaft. Simply stated...they were run with the improper volume of oil, plain and simple.? Years back there was a massive issue with the supply chain, as replacement needle bearings were slightly oversized causing all kinds of problems.
> Mike Ross (out in Ohio) did a great write-up on them years back.
> Yeap, that is what happened to mine.  It was 2003 ?  thus leading to the second rebuild and the loosing of the box.
> 
> I've been pulling 136HP though FIS6's (might be down around 125 now)? GT6 MKIII box for nearly 12 years now.
> Long distance road trips to, and laps on, then driving home from Road Atlanta, Watkins Glen, Mid Ohio and Lime Rock ....have never had a single issue with that tranny.
> 
> When it was running I never had issues either, barring the needle bearings ?  That is why I find it interesting in such comments.
> 
> 
> And believe it or not.... you CAN mount a J-type o/d to a three rail GT6 box. main shafts are avail...usually cheaper than the more common d-type shaft.
> 
> I do have the OD unit
> [No photo description available.]
> There is supposedly a good place out of the UK to get OD-mainshafts????  Other vendors?
> 
> I am thinking this refresh kit unless others have a suggestion https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-RG1183
> 
> Ok, well your mileage has been exceptional so I would consider your experience worth following ?
> 
> Next steps?
> 
> 
> David
> 
> 
> 
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> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 5
> Date: Mon, 27 May 2019 02:12:41 -0400
> From: Paul Tegler <ptegler at verizon.net>
> To: David Templeton <davidt at opentext.com>, "triumphs at autox.team.net"
>    <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] [EXTERNAL] - Re:  Finally some progress
> Message-ID: <efdc5013-0c59-efb0-b026-c65abe66dd8c at verizon.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"
> 
> Nigel (spitbits.com in California?) still carries them 
> https://www.spitbits.com/store/Main-Shaft-C271.aspx 
> <https://www.spitbits.com/store/Main-Shaft-C271.aspx>bottom of the page
> 
> ptegler
> 
> 
>> On 5/26/2019 10:23 PM, David Templeton wrote:
>> 
>> */I've never seen a box (have rebuilt at least 12 now Spits and Gt6) 
>> with damaged needle bearings...although I've seen massive wear on the 
>> shaft. Simply stated...they were run with the improper volume of oil, 
>> plain and simple.? Years back there was a massive issue with the 
>> supply chain, as replacement needle bearings were slightly oversized 
>> causing all kinds of problems.
>> Mike Ross (out in Ohio) did a great write-up on them years back./*
>> 
>> Yeap, that is what happened to mine.?? It was 2003 ?????? thus leading to 
>> the second rebuild and the loosing of the box.
>> 
>> */I've been pulling 136HP though FIS6's (might be down around 125 
>> now)? GT6 MKIII box for nearly 12 years now.
>> Long distance road trips to, and laps on, then driving home from Road 
>> Atlanta, Watkins Glen, Mid Ohio and Lime Rock ....have never had a 
>> single issue with that tranny./**//*
>> 
>> When it was running I never had issues either, barring the needle 
>> bearings ?????? That is why I find it interesting in such comments.
>> 
>> */And believe it or not.... you CAN mount a J-type o/d to a three rail 
>> GT6 box. main shafts are avail...usually cheaper than the more common 
>> d-type shaft./*
>> 
>> I do have the OD unit
>> 
>> No photo description available.
>> 
>> There is supposedly a good place out of the UK to get 
>> OD-mainshafts?????? Other vendors?
>> 
>> I am thinking this refresh kit unless others have a suggestion 
>> https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-RG1183
>> 
>> Ok, well your mileage has been exceptional so I would consider your 
>> experience worth following ????
>> 
>> Next steps?
>> 
>> David
>> 
> -- 
> Paul Tegler
> ptegler at verizon.net  www.teglerizer.com
> 
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Subject: Digest Footer
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Triumphs mailing list
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 12, Issue 112
> *****************************************


From dave at mdmackay.ca  Mon May 27 14:17:09 2019
From: dave at mdmackay.ca (Dave MacKay)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2019 16:17:09 -0400
Subject: [TR] Sparkplugs for TR3A
Message-ID: <7cf457446e5ee7443e524c4db8e1b066@mail.gmail.com>

 Sparkplugs for TR3A

Hello:

I?ve been running Champion L87Yc plugs in my 1960 TR3A, gapped to
0.025?. Although
they?ve been fine, I?ve always been concerned about the amount of soot on
them at the end of each driving season. Thinking the soot might be dur to
too rich a mixture, I rebuilt my carbs but didn?t notice any change in the
amount of soot. It was suggested that I might want to try a hotter plug
since that might burn away more of the soot. According to Champion, the
next hotter plug to the L87YC would be the L92YC.

What concerns ought I be aware of in running a hotter plug?  Has anyone of
the list had experience with L92YC plugs?

I researched other plugs that list members are using and found that several
have had good success with NGK BP6HS. According to NGK those plugs have
been discontinued and the recommended replacement is the BPR6HS (same plug
but with a resisitor). I thought I might try a set before moving to a
hotter plug.

I?d welcome any comments.

Dave MacKay

1960 TR3A s/n 68639L

Near Toronto, Canada
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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon May 27 14:59:26 2019
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2019 13:59:26 -0700
Subject: [TR] Sparkplugs for TR3A
In-Reply-To: <7cf457446e5ee7443e524c4db8e1b066@mail.gmail.com>
References: <7cf457446e5ee7443e524c4db8e1b066@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4224FAE0-4D4C-46BE-9F7E-8DDC337F248E@ca.rr.com>

IMO soot on the plugs always means you are running too rich, at least part of the time. Since idle mixture is fully adjustable, I would first check it by the book (lift the piston test), then if that still puts soot on the plugs, try going leaner a half flat at a time.

Note that it's also easy to get soot on the plugs when starting from cold, which may take some time to burn off, even running under load. Also, you should be looking at the insulator near the gap, as the metal shell may never get hot enough to burn the soot off.

Problems with float level (leaky float) or a leaky float valve can also cause sooty plugs.

My point of view, hotter plugs are only a workaround for things like excess oil consumption.
-- Randall

On 27 May 2019 13:17:09 GMT-07:00, Dave MacKay <dave at mdmackay.ca> wrote:
> Sparkplugs for TR3A
>
>Hello:
>
>I?ve been running Champion L87Yc plugs in my 1960 TR3A, gapped to
>0.025?. Although
>they?ve been fine, I?ve always been concerned about the amount of soot
>on
>them at the end of each driving season. Thinking the soot might be dur
>to
>too rich a mixture, I rebuilt my carbs but didn?t notice any change in
>the
>amount of soot. It was suggested that I might want to try a hotter plug
>since that might burn away more of the soot. According to Champion, the
>next hotter plug to the L87YC would be the L92YC.
>
>What concerns ought I be aware of in running a hotter plug?  Has anyone
>of
>the list had experience with L92YC plugs?
>
>I researched other plugs that list members are using and found that
>several
>have had good success with NGK BP6HS. According to NGK those plugs have
>been discontinued and the recommended replacement is the BPR6HS (same
>plug
>but with a resisitor). I thought I might try a set before moving to a
>hotter plug.
>
>I?d welcome any comments.
>
>Dave MacKay
>
>1960 TR3A s/n 68639L
>
>Near Toronto, Canada
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From mhooper at indiefilmnet.com  Mon May 27 21:38:09 2019
From: mhooper at indiefilmnet.com (Mark Hooper)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2019 23:38:09 -0400
Subject: [TR] Speedometer drive in J-type OD
In-Reply-To: <1911933643.2013000.1555699296032@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <D331504E-A088-4282-A8E0-EF21338B5811@gmail.com>
 <1911933643.2013000.1555699296032@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <WC20190528033809.060008@indiefilmnet.com>

Hello oh List:


My 72 TR6's speedometer has stopped working completely. It was jumping more 
and more wildly and now is completely dead. Since the cable seems to turn 
freely in the casing I'm pretty certain the drive gear down below has just 
lost too many teeth to engage. Memory tells me the drive is plastic. I have 
a J-type OD in my car. I ordered it built up by the Laycock de Normanville 
descendants who work (I am told) with the original tooling. I had it done 
with the Volvo gearing (1.25). Three questions:


1 - Can I pull the gear out without having to remove the OD ? It looks like 
it's removable.


2 - Will I end up with a flood of transmission oil all over the place. i.e. 
should I drain it first?


3 - How do I count/measure to know which replacement gear to buy?


Thanks in advance for any helpful advice out there.


Mark Hooper
1972 TR6
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From dave1massey at cs.com  Tue May 28 05:33:57 2019
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2019 11:33:57 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Speedometer drive in J-type OD
References: <1170416926.5611080.1559043237028.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1170416926.5611080.1559043237028@mail.yahoo.com>

 Hello, Mark.? Long time, no hear from.? My answers are yes, no, I don't know.

Yes you can pull the gear without removing the OD.? There is a small bolt that holds the cable attachment piece.? Once that is removed you can withdraw the piece and the gear.
No, you will not get a flood of oil, this is all above the "water line."
I don't know which gear you need? off hand but I believe that 72 was before the conversion to the "1000 turns-per-mile" standard found on the later models which means they all got the same gear and the speedometers were calibrated to suit.? You can verify that by looking at the the speedometer face near the bottom and you will find a number something like "1120" or "1000."? This will tell you which gear you need.? For what it's worth, The Roadster Factory lists part number 147965 for models up to CF1 and UKC5933 for models CF1 and later.
On the other hand, it is possible that the end of the speedo cable itself is at fault.? It may have rounded off or broke and your gear may be OK after all.? Or, since you have overdrive, you have a right-angle drive and that might be at fault.? That part is 120694.
Let us know what you find.
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Hooper <mhooper at indiefilmnet.com>
To: triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, May 27, 2019 10:38 pm
Subject: [TR] Speedometer drive in J-type OD

Hello oh List:?My 72 TR6's speedometer has stopped working completely. It was jumping more and more wildly and now is completely dead.?Since the cable seems to turn freely in the casing I'm pretty certain the drive gear down below has just lost too many teeth to engage. Memory tells me the drive is plastic. I have a J-type OD in my car. I ordered it built up by the Laycock de Normanville descendants who work (I am told) with the original tooling. I had it done with the Volvo gearing (1.25). Three?questions:?1 - Can I pull the gear out without having to remove the OD ? It looks like it's removable.?2 - Will I end up with a flood of transmission oil all over the place. i.e. should I drain it first??3 - How do I count/measure to know which replacement gear to buy??Thanks in advance for any helpful advice out there.?Mark Hooper1972 TR6
?
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com
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From triumphstag at gmail.com  Tue May 28 08:03:49 2019
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2019 07:03:49 -0700
Subject: [TR] Speedometer drive in J-type OD
In-Reply-To: <WC20190528033809.060008@indiefilmnet.com>
References: <D331504E-A088-4282-A8E0-EF21338B5811@gmail.com>
 <1911933643.2013000.1555699296032@mail.yahoo.com>
 <WC20190528033809.060008@indiefilmnet.com>
Message-ID: <CANLCLaE7mo_xwrzAYqaEYbCWt9dYfw+Z6_6kx=0WVe-FLp_yZw@mail.gmail.com>

I have a j type on the stag and no brackets are in the way. U can get to
it. Oil will come out not sure how much. Change two o rings while u have it
out. Google the no. Of teeth for the 6. I have a j type for a dolomite
sprint and had to swap out the gear. .

 The no. Of teeth were different as well as the length

Just fty. At the end of the OD is a stamped. On the Stag and sprint are 6
start. This is the no. Of threads on the big gear in the OD.

Sujit



On Mon, May 27, 2019, 8:38 PM Mark Hooper <mhooper at indiefilmnet.com> wrote:

> Hello oh List:
>
> My 72 TR6's speedometer has stopped working completely. It was jumping
> more and more wildly and now is completely dead. Since the cable seems to
> turn freely in the casing I'm pretty certain the drive gear down below has
> just lost too many teeth to engage. Memory tells me the drive is plastic. I
> have a J-type OD in my car. I ordered it built up by the Laycock de
> Normanville descendants who work (I am told) with the original tooling. I
> had it done with the Volvo gearing (1.25). Three questions:
>
> 1 - Can I pull the gear out without having to remove the OD ? It looks
> like it's removable.
>
> 2 - Will I end up with a flood of transmission oil all over the place.
> i.e. should I drain it first?
>
> 3 - How do I count/measure to know which replacement gear to buy?
>
> Thanks in advance for any helpful advice out there.
>
> Mark Hooper
> 1972 TR6
>
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumphstag at gmail.com
>
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From triumphstag at gmail.com  Tue May 28 08:04:46 2019
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2019 07:04:46 -0700
Subject: [TR] Speedometer drive in J-type OD
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaE7mo_xwrzAYqaEYbCWt9dYfw+Z6_6kx=0WVe-FLp_yZw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <D331504E-A088-4282-A8E0-EF21338B5811@gmail.com>
 <1911933643.2013000.1555699296032@mail.yahoo.com>
 <WC20190528033809.060008@indiefilmnet.com>
 <CANLCLaE7mo_xwrzAYqaEYbCWt9dYfw+Z6_6kx=0WVe-FLp_yZw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANLCLaHfYDHQMcZaL+Oz4Ric43Gd7QFd2w+PheA6WU3W9f9jJw@mail.gmail.com>

Another source in UK. Overdrive Spares.

On Tue, May 28, 2019, 7:03 AM Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com> wrote:

> I have a j type on the stag and no brackets are in the way. U can get to
> it. Oil will come out not sure how much. Change two o rings while u have it
> out. Google the no. Of teeth for the 6. I have a j type for a dolomite
> sprint and had to swap out the gear. .
>
>  The no. Of teeth were different as well as the length
>
> Just fty. At the end of the OD is a stamped. On the Stag and sprint are 6
> start. This is the no. Of threads on the big gear in the OD.
>
> Sujit
>
>
>
> On Mon, May 27, 2019, 8:38 PM Mark Hooper <mhooper at indiefilmnet.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Hello oh List:
>>
>> My 72 TR6's speedometer has stopped working completely. It was jumping
>> more and more wildly and now is completely dead. Since the cable seems to
>> turn freely in the casing I'm pretty certain the drive gear down below has
>> just lost too many teeth to engage. Memory tells me the drive is plastic. I
>> have a J-type OD in my car. I ordered it built up by the Laycock de
>> Normanville descendants who work (I am told) with the original tooling. I
>> had it done with the Volvo gearing (1.25). Three questions:
>>
>> 1 - Can I pull the gear out without having to remove the OD ? It looks
>> like it's removable.
>>
>> 2 - Will I end up with a flood of transmission oil all over the place.
>> i.e. should I drain it first?
>>
>> 3 - How do I count/measure to know which replacement gear to buy?
>>
>> Thanks in advance for any helpful advice out there.
>>
>> Mark Hooper
>> 1972 TR6
>>
>>
>>
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumphstag at gmail.com
>>
>
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From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue May 28 11:22:10 2019
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2019 10:22:10 -0700
Subject: [TR] Speedometer drive in J-type OD
In-Reply-To: <WC20190528033809.060008@indiefilmnet.com>
References: <D331504E-A088-4282-A8E0-EF21338B5811@gmail.com>
 <1911933643.2013000.1555699296032@mail.yahoo.com>
 <WC20190528033809.060008@indiefilmnet.com>
Message-ID: <1290DC17A32C47D58B6CB357ABCB8780@RYPC>

I would definitely check the angle drive first.  A well-known weak spot.

Also check that your speedo head turns freely.  If the bushing gets dry, it
can drag and get hot, which makes it drag harder, which makes it get hotter
... Until the angle drive breaks.  Then the bushing cools off and most of
the drag goes away.

-- Randall

> My 72 TR6's speedometer has stopped working completely. It 
> was jumping more and more wildly and now is completely dead. 
> Since the cable seems to turn freely in the casing I'm pretty 
> certain the drive gear down below has just lost too many 
> teeth to engage. 


From terryrs at comcast.net  Tue May 28 13:29:17 2019
From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2019 15:29:17 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Speedometer drive in J-type OD
In-Reply-To: <1290DC17A32C47D58B6CB357ABCB8780@RYPC>
References: <D331504E-A088-4282-A8E0-EF21338B5811@gmail.com>
 <1911933643.2013000.1555699296032@mail.yahoo.com>
 <WC20190528033809.060008@indiefilmnet.com>
 <1290DC17A32C47D58B6CB357ABCB8780@RYPC>
Message-ID: <383130335.158764.1559071757956@connect.xfinity.com>

This week my tach stopped working.  Began the dismantling process to check the cable, only to find out the cable had come undone from the tach.

Occasionally it's simple.  But that's not where I would normally put my money!

Terry


> On May 28, 2019 at 1:22 PM Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> I would definitely check the angle drive first.  A well-known weak spot.
> 
> Also check that your speedo head turns freely.  If the bushing gets dry, it
> can drag and get hot, which makes it drag harder, which makes it get hotter
> ... Until the angle drive breaks.  Then the bushing cools off and most of
> the drag goes away.
> 
> -- Randall
> 
> > My 72 TR6's speedometer has stopped working completely. It 
> > was jumping more and more wildly and now is completely dead. 
> > Since the cable seems to turn freely in the casing I'm pretty 
> > certain the drive gear down below has just lost too many 
> > teeth to engage. 
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at comcast.net

From trguy75 at gmail.com  Wed May 29 15:14:13 2019
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2019 17:14:13 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tr8 air conditioning
Message-ID: <765C507C-32A2-4A9C-AC29-DD6259DB7F68@gmail.com>

Anyone know source for stock AC parts for low mileage 81 tr8.  Delco R4 compressor.  Want to update to modern r134 but want stock appearance.
Thanks,
Jim Henningsen
Ocala FL


Sent from my iPad

From terryrs at comcast.net  Wed May 29 19:36:44 2019
From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2019 21:36:44 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Electrical Gremlin
In-Reply-To: <765C507C-32A2-4A9C-AC29-DD6259DB7F68@gmail.com>
References: <765C507C-32A2-4A9C-AC29-DD6259DB7F68@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <976614161.167610.1559180205648@connect.xfinity.com>

Alas, I have been a good boy...relatively speaking, of course.  Yet nonetheless the Prince of Darkness, St. Lucas, has descended to wreak havoc.

TR3 engine starts and runs, then flutters and, now, dies.  I've been through the fuel system completely, short of a magnet in the fuel tank, which I might try.  Completely disassembled the carbs again today.  Jets centered, float bowls have no gas in them, float valves perfectly adjusted, and the puff test shows they stop flow as they should.  Mixture and idle is right.  Not to mention I tried a complete swap out of these carbs (rebuilt by Quantum Mechanics some years back).  

I've tracked wiring through the system.  I thought a partial open (broken wires) at the lighting switch where it feeds the ignition switch would fix it.  Didn't.  Replaced the 60 year old ignition switch. Didn't fix it.  Double checked the fuse holder for solid and clean connections.  Not the issue.  When it does run, the voltmeter (not ammeter) shows just the 12 volts from the battery, and not a charge.  White wire from the fuse to the coil tests no short to ground, and bypassing it with another connecting wire doesn't cure the problem either.  

So question.  When one has done the Pertronix modification (I replaced that too), the generator control is wired differently.  I've checked connections there and they're good.  But is there any break-down inside that could cause a power disruption to the ignition system.  

Second question, I can't really tell from the wiring diagram whether the generator or the starter could be stealing power from the ignition system.

I'll be back at it tomorrow, but any thoughts?

Best,
Terry Smith, '59 TR3A  TS 58667
New Hampshire

From terryrs at comcast.net  Wed May 29 19:41:18 2019
From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2019 21:41:18 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Electrical Gremlin
In-Reply-To: <976614161.167610.1559180205648@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <765C507C-32A2-4A9C-AC29-DD6259DB7F68@gmail.com>
 <976614161.167610.1559180205648@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <2064370357.167650.1559180478551@connect.xfinity.com>

Oh, and replaced the fuel pump and all fuel filters.  


> On May 29, 2019 at 9:36 PM TERRY SMITH <terryrs at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> Alas, I have been a good boy...relatively speaking, of course.  Yet nonetheless the Prince of Darkness, St. Lucas, has descended to wreak havoc.
> 
> TR3 engine starts and runs, then flutters and, now, dies.  I've been through the fuel system completely, short of a magnet in the fuel tank, which I might try.  Completely disassembled the carbs again today.  Jets centered, float bowls have no gas in them, float valves perfectly adjusted, and the puff test shows they stop flow as they should.  Mixture and idle is right.  Not to mention I tried a complete swap out of these carbs (rebuilt by Quantum Mechanics some years back).  
> 
> I've tracked wiring through the system.  I thought a partial open (broken wires) at the lighting switch where it feeds the ignition switch would fix it.  Didn't.  Replaced the 60 year old ignition switch. Didn't fix it.  Double checked the fuse holder for solid and clean connections.  Not the issue.  When it does run, the voltmeter (not ammeter) shows just the 12 volts from the battery, and not a charge.  White wire from the fuse to the coil tests no short to ground, and bypassing it with another connecting wire doesn't cure the problem either.  
> 
> So question.  When one has done the Pertronix modification (I replaced that too), the generator control is wired differently.  I've checked connections there and they're good.  But is there any break-down inside that could cause a power disruption to the ignition system.  
> 
> Second question, I can't really tell from the wiring diagram whether the generator or the starter could be stealing power from the ignition system.
> 
> I'll be back at it tomorrow, but any thoughts?
> 
> Best,
> Terry Smith, '59 TR3A  TS 58667
> New Hampshire
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at comcast.net

From pbaize at satx.rr.com  Wed May 29 19:54:31 2019
From: pbaize at satx.rr.com (Patrick Baize)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2019 20:54:31 -0500
Subject: [TR] Electrical Gremlin
In-Reply-To: <976614161.167610.1559180205648@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <765C507C-32A2-4A9C-AC29-DD6259DB7F68@gmail.com>
 <976614161.167610.1559180205648@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <3b8610cc-4636-42c1-7c88-0fbf001c09d0@satx.rr.com>

I have that gremlin also, Stag will run, and just quit. tried to find 
it, can't.? I had the original ignition, new coils, points. Pertronix 
and optical type(don't remember brand)? But a day later, will start 
right up.?? I just wonder, does a Mk1 Stag and TR3 use the same style 
RPM gauge. The type where the coil wire goes THRU the RPM gauge?? 
Because if you undo the plug to the gauge, the car wont start. I wonder 
if the gauge is failing?

Thnx

Patrick

71 Stag


5/29/2019 8:36 PM, TERRY SMITH wrote:

> Alas, I have been a good boy...relatively speaking, of course.  Yet nonetheless the Prince of Darkness, St. Lucas, has descended to wreak havoc.
>
> TR3 engine starts and runs, then flutters and, now, dies.  I've been through the fuel system completely, short of a magnet in the fuel tank, which I might try.  Completely disassembled the carbs again today.  Jets centered, float bowls have no gas in them, float valves perfectly adjusted, and the puff test shows they stop flow as they should.  Mixture and idle is right.  Not to mention I tried a complete swap out of these carbs (rebuilt by Quantum Mechanics some years back).
>
> I've tracked wiring through the system.  I thought a partial open (broken wires) at the lighting switch where it feeds the ignition switch would fix it.  Didn't.  Replaced the 60 year old ignition switch. Didn't fix it.  Double checked the fuse holder for solid and clean connections.  Not the issue.  When it does run, the voltmeter (not ammeter) shows just the 12 volts from the battery, and not a charge.  White wire from the fuse to the coil tests no short to ground, and bypassing it with another connecting wire doesn't cure the problem either.
>
> So question.  When one has done the Pertronix modification (I replaced that too), the generator control is wired differently.  I've checked connections there and they're good.  But is there any break-down inside that could cause a power disruption to the ignition system.
>
> Second question, I can't really tell from the wiring diagram whether the generator or the starter could be stealing power from the ignition system.
>
> I'll be back at it tomorrow, but any thoughts?
>
> Best,
> Terry Smith, '59 TR3A  TS 58667
> New Hampshire
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pbaize at satx.rr.com
>

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus


From terryrs at comcast.net  Wed May 29 20:02:55 2019
From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2019 22:02:55 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Electrical Gremlin
In-Reply-To: <3b8610cc-4636-42c1-7c88-0fbf001c09d0@satx.rr.com>
References: <765C507C-32A2-4A9C-AC29-DD6259DB7F68@gmail.com>
 <976614161.167610.1559180205648@connect.xfinity.com>
 <3b8610cc-4636-42c1-7c88-0fbf001c09d0@satx.rr.com>
Message-ID: <1215994724.167826.1559181776177@connect.xfinity.com>

Hi, Patrick.  On a '3, the tachometer is run by a cable coming off the distributor, so not electrical.


> On May 29, 2019 at 9:54 PM Patrick Baize <pbaize at satx.rr.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> I have that gremlin also, Stag will run, and just quit. tried to find 
> it, can't.? I had the original ignition, new coils, points. Pertronix 
> and optical type(don't remember brand)? But a day later, will start 
> right up.?? I just wonder, does a Mk1 Stag and TR3 use the same style 
> RPM gauge. The type where the coil wire goes THRU the RPM gauge?? 
> Because if you undo the plug to the gauge, the car wont start. I wonder 
> if the gauge is failing?
> 
> Thnx
> 
> Patrick
> 
> 71 Stag
> 
> 
> 5/29/2019 8:36 PM, TERRY SMITH wrote:
> 
> > Alas, I have been a good boy...relatively speaking, of course.  Yet nonetheless the Prince of Darkness, St. Lucas, has descended to wreak havoc.
> >
> > TR3 engine starts and runs, then flutters and, now, dies.  I've been through the fuel system completely, short of a magnet in the fuel tank, which I might try.  Completely disassembled the carbs again today.  Jets centered, float bowls have no gas in them, float valves perfectly adjusted, and the puff test shows they stop flow as they should.  Mixture and idle is right.  Not to mention I tried a complete swap out of these carbs (rebuilt by Quantum Mechanics some years back).
> >
> > I've tracked wiring through the system.  I thought a partial open (broken wires) at the lighting switch where it feeds the ignition switch would fix it.  Didn't.  Replaced the 60 year old ignition switch. Didn't fix it.  Double checked the fuse holder for solid and clean connections.  Not the issue.  When it does run, the voltmeter (not ammeter) shows just the 12 volts from the battery, and not a charge.  White wire from the fuse to the coil tests no short to ground, and bypassing it with another connecting wire doesn't cure the problem either.
> >
> > So question.  When one has done the Pertronix modification (I replaced that too), the generator control is wired differently.  I've checked connections there and they're good.  But is there any break-down inside that could cause a power disruption to the ignition system.
> >
> > Second question, I can't really tell from the wiring diagram whether the generator or the starter could be stealing power from the ignition system.
> >
> > I'll be back at it tomorrow, but any thoughts?
> >
> > Best,
> > Terry Smith, '59 TR3A  TS 58667
> > New Hampshire
> > ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pbaize at satx.rr.com
> >
> 
> ---
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at comcast.net

From kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Wed May 29 20:41:40 2019
From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2019 19:41:40 -0700
Subject: [TR] Electrical Gremlin
In-Reply-To: <2064370357.167650.1559180478551@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <765C507C-32A2-4A9C-AC29-DD6259DB7F68@gmail.com>
 <976614161.167610.1559180205648@connect.xfinity.com>
 <2064370357.167650.1559180478551@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <007701d51691$3655a870$a300f950$@net>

Hi Terry,
Try a very easy test, open the fuel filler cap and try again. If that
doesn't tell you something, disconnect the fuel line at the carbs and see if
you get a good strong flow from the fuel pump. I once had a tank that was
some clogged at the outlet only a small amount of gas could get by, not
enough to keep the car running.
Just some thoughts,
Bob

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TERRY
SMITH
Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2019 6:41 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Electrical Gremlin

Oh, and replaced the fuel pump and all fuel filters.  


> On May 29, 2019 at 9:36 PM TERRY SMITH <terryrs at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> Alas, I have been a good boy...relatively speaking, of course.  Yet
nonetheless the Prince of Darkness, St. Lucas, has descended to wreak havoc.
> 
> TR3 engine starts and runs, then flutters and, now, dies.  I've been
through the fuel system completely, short of a magnet in the fuel tank,
which I might try.  Completely disassembled the carbs again today.  Jets
centered, float bowls have no gas in them, float valves perfectly adjusted,
and the puff test shows they stop flow as they should.  Mixture and idle is
right.  Not to mention I tried a complete swap out of these carbs (rebuilt
by Quantum Mechanics some years back).  
> 
> I've tracked wiring through the system.  I thought a partial open (broken
wires) at the lighting switch where it feeds the ignition switch would fix
it.  Didn't.  Replaced the 60 year old ignition switch. Didn't fix it.
Double checked the fuse holder for solid and clean connections.  Not the
issue.  When it does run, the voltmeter (not ammeter) shows just the 12
volts from the battery, and not a charge.  White wire from the fuse to the
coil tests no short to ground, and bypassing it with another connecting wire
doesn't cure the problem either.  
> 
> So question.  When one has done the Pertronix modification (I replaced
that too), the generator control is wired differently.  I've checked
connections there and they're good.  But is there any break-down inside that
could cause a power disruption to the ignition system.  
> 
> Second question, I can't really tell from the wiring diagram whether the
generator or the starter could be stealing power from the ignition system.
> 
> I'll be back at it tomorrow, but any thoughts?
> 
> Best,
> Terry Smith, '59 TR3A  TS 58667
> New Hampshire
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at comcast.net
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/kinderlehrer at comcast.net


From dave at mdmackay.ca  Wed May 29 21:29:53 2019
From: dave at mdmackay.ca (Dave MacKay)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2019 23:29:53 -0400
Subject: [TR] Troubleshooting TR3A fuel gauge
Message-ID: <9caba7dc27955d4c0578025ab5adf13c@mail.gmail.com>

 Troubleshooting TR3A fuel gauge

Hello:

I?ve been troubleshooting the fuel gauge on my TR3A because it has not been
providing an accurate indication (or even a reasonable approximation) of
the fuel level in my tank.

I referred to a number of documents and old posts about how to troubleshoot
and calibrate the fuel gauge and sending unit (e.g.,
*https://www.triumphexp.com/forum/tr2-and-tr3-forum.6/faulty-fuel-gauge-57-tr-3.1244960/*
<https://www.triumphexp.com/forum/tr2-and-tr3-forum.6/faulty-fuel-gauge-57-tr-3.1244960/>
and *http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/fg_01.htm*
<http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/fg_01.htm>).

I started by looping a clothes hanger around the float in the tank and
reading how many ohms I saw at different levels. What I found was that the
reading fluctuated --- it didn?t stay the same even when I held the float
at one level. I then checked to ensure that the grounds were good (they
were). Before concluding that the sending unit was flakey, I thought I?d better
ensure that I was getting good power to the unit.

That?s where things got weird.

-       I read 7.6V between the sending unit and ground.

-       I read 7.65V between the T terminal of the fuel gauge (which
connects to the fuel tank sending unit) and ground. However, this reading
was erratic; the value would change to, say 4V.

-       I read 10.6V at the B terminal of the fuel gauge

-       I read 10.9V at the A4 terminal of the fuse box.

-       I read 11.9V at the A2 terminal of the fuse box.

-       I read 12.5v between the terminals of the battery.

I?m a bit baffled. I expected that I?d see about 12V at all points. Even if
the fuel gauge was bad, I would have expected to see the same voltage at
the battery, A2, A4, and the B terminal of the gauge. As it is, I?m seeing
a drop of about 2V among them.

What might be causing the voltage drops that I?m seeing? Could it be as
simple as a broken fuel gauge? If so, how could I test that?

Moss lists the fuel gauge as NLA. Does anyone know of another source?

BTW, when I switched my generator for an alternator years ago, I eliminated
the control box (regulator).

Thanks in advance.

Dave MacKay

TR3A s/n 68639L

near Toronto, Canada
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From wbeech at flash.net  Wed May 29 22:10:33 2019
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2019 23:10:33 -0500
Subject: [TR] Troubleshooting TR3A fuel gauge
In-Reply-To: <9caba7dc27955d4c0578025ab5adf13c@mail.gmail.com>
References: <9caba7dc27955d4c0578025ab5adf13c@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <5E924805-84E3-4CBF-AD01-4840AF1895EE@flash.net>

Barney at Mgaguru.com is a good guy that knows his stuff.   Ohms should roughly go from 10-90(Barney says 0-70) with the clothes hanger and all wires disconnected.  

Check all your related connections, the sender and the gauge need to be grounded.  

I would expect 12v at the hot post of the gauge.  If your not getting it try a direct jumper and test the system.   New gauges are NLA but you can either find them on eBay or other parts sites, or send your gauge AND sender to one of the several reputable instrument rebuilders. 

Bill B
TS30800L

Sent from my DynaTAC 8000X

On May 29, 2019, at 10:29 PM, Dave MacKay <dave at mdmackay.ca> wrote:

Hello:

I?ve been troubleshooting the fuel gauge on my TR3A because it has not been providing an accurate indication (or even a reasonable approximation) of the fuel level in my tank.

I referred to a number of documents and old posts about how to troubleshoot and calibrate the fuel gauge and sending unit (e.g., https://www.triumphexp.com/forum/tr2-and-tr3-forum.6/faulty-fuel-gauge-57-tr-3.1244960/ and http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/fg_01.htm).

I started by looping a clothes hanger around the float in the tank and reading how many ohms I saw at different levels. What I found was that the reading fluctuated --- it didn?t stay the same even when I held the float at one level. I then checked to ensure that the grounds were good (they were). Before concluding that the sending unit was flakey, I thought I?d better ensure that I was getting good power to the unit.

That?s where things got weird.

-       I read 7.6V between the sending unit and ground.

-       I read 7.65V between the T terminal of the fuel gauge (which connects to the fuel tank sending unit) and ground. However, this reading was erratic; the value would change to, say 4V.

-       I read 10.6V at the B terminal of the fuel gauge

-       I read 10.9V at the A4 terminal of the fuse box.

-       I read 11.9V at the A2 terminal of the fuse box.

-       I read 12.5v between the terminals of the battery.

I?m a bit baffled. I expected that I?d see about 12V at all points. Even if the fuel gauge was bad, I would have expected to see the same voltage at the battery, A2, A4, and the B terminal of the gauge. As it is, I?m seeing a drop of about 2V among them.

What might be causing the voltage drops that I?m seeing? Could it be as simple as a broken fuel gauge? If so, how could I test that?

Moss lists the fuel gauge as NLA. Does anyone know of another source?

BTW, when I switched my generator for an alternator years ago, I eliminated the control box (regulator). 

Thanks in advance.

Dave MacKay

TR3A s/n 68639L

near Toronto, Canada


** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive

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From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed May 29 23:36:47 2019
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2019 22:36:47 -0700
Subject: [TR] Troubleshooting TR3A fuel gauge
In-Reply-To: <9caba7dc27955d4c0578025ab5adf13c@mail.gmail.com>
References: <9caba7dc27955d4c0578025ab5adf13c@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <45169D326FA442D893E46EA557139B64@RYPC>


> 
> -       I read 10.6V at the B terminal of the fuel gauge
> 
> -       I read 10.9V at the A4 terminal of the fuse box.
> 
> -       I read 11.9V at the A2 terminal of the fuse box.
> 
> -       I read 12.5v between the terminals of the battery.
> 
> I'm a bit baffled. I expected that I'd see about 12V at all 
> points. Even if the fuel gauge was bad, I would have expected 
> to see the same voltage at the battery, A2, A4, and the B 
> terminal of the gauge. As it is, I'm seeing a drop of about 
> 2V among them.
> 
> What might be causing the voltage drops that I'm seeing? 
> Could it be as simple as a broken fuel gauge? If so, how 
> could I test that?

You've got multiple bad connections, in the sense they present some
resistance.  Not at all unusual on these old cars.

The variation is most likely the sender jumping around, but could also be an
intermittent connection somewhere.

I would start walking along the circuit, going point to point along the
conductor instead of each point to ground.  Maybe start with the battery hot
post to the terminal for the brown wire at the starter solenoid.  Then that
terminal to A1 on the fuse block (which should be a direct run of fairly
heavy brown wire).  Etc, etc.  Each time you find a voltage drop,
disassemble, clean and inspect the joint.  

If the drop is happening in the wire, consider replacing the wire.

But my guess is that you have a post-60K TR3A with the Lucar connectors, and
you'll find that all the drops are happening at the Lucar connectors.  They
were never designed to last this long!  Generally though, cleaning the male
tab, smearing a little bit of your favorite preservative on it (silicone
grease or even Vaseline), and pinching the female connection a bit before
reinstalling it; will make a noticeable improvement.  If not, the next step
is to replace the female connector.  Preferably (IMO) with a quality
non-insulated terminal, both crimped and soldered to the wire, then
insulated with two pieces of heat shrink tubing.  I put a short slide show
up at https://imgur.com/a/yETAubD

-- Randall


From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed May 29 23:53:46 2019
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2019 22:53:46 -0700
Subject: [TR] Electrical Gremlin
In-Reply-To: <976614161.167610.1559180205648@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <765C507C-32A2-4A9C-AC29-DD6259DB7F68@gmail.com>
 <976614161.167610.1559180205648@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <223F1A056BA74633A9DEA2FFEDFF752B@RYPC>


> Jets centered, float 
> bowls have no gas in them,

A typo?  Float bowls should have gas in them, engine won't run without gas.
If the bowls are running dry, you've got a fuel delivery problem.

> So question.  When one has done the Pertronix modification (I 
> replaced that too), the generator control is wired 
> differently.

Not that I know of.  I installed a Pertronix, had it running for months,
eventually removed it, no changes at all to generator control.  The
Pertronix needs exactly 3 connections on a TR3A, ground through the point
plate (which can be a problem), power from the hot side of the coil, and the
output to the ground side of the coil.

> Second question, I can't really tell from the wiring diagram 
> whether the generator or the starter could be stealing power 
> from the ignition system.
> 
> I'll be back at it tomorrow, but any thoughts?

Instead of replacing everything in sight, try doing some tests.  Temporarily
connect a 12v test light from the coil hot terminal (which should also feed
the Pertronix) to a good ground on the engine.  Start the engine, watch the
light.  It may dim a bit while cranking, but should stay full brightness
once the starter is no longer engaged.  If it dims when the engine dies,
you've proven an electrical problem; which you can now go looking for in a
similar manner.

If the light stays full brightness, though, either the Pertronix is flaking
out, or the problem lies elsewhere.  I would look next at the ground wire
for the point plate, as they flex in service and sometimes break inside the
insulation.

-- Randall


From grglmn at gmail.com  Thu May 30 00:29:48 2019
From: grglmn at gmail.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2019 08:29:48 +0200
Subject: [TR] Electrical Gremlin
In-Reply-To: <223F1A056BA74633A9DEA2FFEDFF752B@RYPC>
References: <765C507C-32A2-4A9C-AC29-DD6259DB7F68@gmail.com>
 <976614161.167610.1559180205648@connect.xfinity.com>
 <223F1A056BA74633A9DEA2FFEDFF752B@RYPC>
Message-ID: <CAFtw3aYBp3e0DwgPbhEr7pEPcndE=+P6bq1Q2qm7hE-Q7mOrYA@mail.gmail.com>

To focus on what Randall said "float bowls have no fuel in them" Car won't
run without it, do you have a clogged line?  I have had this happen on
several cars, fuel flows when you turn the car on, whatever is restricting
(usually chunks or tiny flakes of rust) is drawn to they line intake on the
tank or other point of restriction and fuel stops, sometimes runs for a few
minutes, sometimes ten or 15.  You stop for long enough it will start again
and repeat the cycle.

Just a thought.

Greg Lemon
TR250

On Thu, May 30, 2019, 7:58 AM Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

>
> > Jets centered, float
> > bowls have no gas in them,
>
> A typo?  Float bowls should have gas in them, engine won't run without gas.
> If the bowls are running dry, you've got a fuel delivery problem.
>
> > So question.  When one has done the Pertronix modification (I
> > replaced that too), the generator control is wired
> > differently.
>
> Not that I know of.  I installed a Pertronix, had it running for months,
> eventually removed it, no changes at all to generator control.  The
> Pertronix needs exactly 3 connections on a TR3A, ground through the point
> plate (which can be a problem), power from the hot side of the coil, and
> the
> output to the ground side of the coil.
>
> > Second question, I can't really tell from the wiring diagram
> > whether the generator or the starter could be stealing power
> > from the ignition system.
> >
> > I'll be back at it tomorrow, but any thoughts?
>
> Instead of replacing everything in sight, try doing some tests.
> Temporarily
> connect a 12v test light from the coil hot terminal (which should also feed
> the Pertronix) to a good ground on the engine.  Start the engine, watch the
> light.  It may dim a bit while cranking, but should stay full brightness
> once the starter is no longer engaged.  If it dims when the engine dies,
> you've proven an electrical problem; which you can now go looking for in a
> similar manner.
>
> If the light stays full brightness, though, either the Pertronix is flaking
> out, or the problem lies elsewhere.  I would look next at the ground wire
> for the point plate, as they flex in service and sometimes break inside the
> insulation.
>
> -- Randall
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
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>
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From dconnitt at fuse.net  Thu May 30 01:22:21 2019
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2019 03:22:21 -0400
Subject: [TR] Troubleshooting TR3A fuel gauge
In-Reply-To: <5E924805-84E3-4CBF-AD01-4840AF1895EE@flash.net>
References: <9caba7dc27955d4c0578025ab5adf13c@mail.gmail.com>
 <5E924805-84E3-4CBF-AD01-4840AF1895EE@flash.net>
Message-ID: <375EACD0-EA00-4DA5-A408-3F9D25871C09@fuse.net>

Hi Dave,
Doesn?t the TR3 have a voltage regulator for the fuel and temperature gauges like the TR4 and TR4A? 
Dave Connitt 

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 30, 2019, at 12:10 AM, Wbeech at flash.net <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:
> 
> Barney at Mgaguru.com is a good guy that knows his stuff.   Ohms should roughly go from 10-90(Barney says 0-70) with the clothes hanger and all wires disconnected.  
> 
> Check all your related connections, the sender and the gauge need to be grounded.  
> 
> I would expect 12v at the hot post of the gauge.  If your not getting it try a direct jumper and test the system.   New gauges are NLA but you can either find them on eBay or other parts sites, or send your gauge AND sender to one of the several reputable instrument rebuilders. 
> 
> Bill B
> TS30800L
> 
> Sent from my DynaTAC 8000X
> 
> On May 29, 2019, at 10:29 PM, Dave MacKay <dave at mdmackay.ca> wrote:
> 
> Hello:
> 
> I?ve been troubleshooting the fuel gauge on my TR3A because it has not been providing an accurate indication (or even a reasonable approximation) of the fuel level in my tank.
> 
> I referred to a number of documents and old posts about how to troubleshoot and calibrate the fuel gauge and sending unit (e.g., https://www.triumphexp.com/forum/tr2-and-tr3-forum.6/faulty-fuel-gauge-57-tr-3.1244960/ and http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/fg_01.htm).
> 
> I started by looping a clothes hanger around the float in the tank and reading how many ohms I saw at different levels. What I found was that the reading fluctuated --- it didn?t stay the same even when I held the float at one level. I then checked to ensure that the grounds were good (they were). Before concluding that the sending unit was flakey, I thought I?d better ensure that I was getting good power to the unit.
> 
> That?s where things got weird.
> 
> -       I read 7.6V between the sending unit and ground.
> 
> -       I read 7.65V between the T terminal of the fuel gauge (which connects to the fuel tank sending unit) and ground. However, this reading was erratic; the value would change to, say 4V.
> 
> -       I read 10.6V at the B terminal of the fuel gauge
> 
> -       I read 10.9V at the A4 terminal of the fuse box.
> 
> -       I read 11.9V at the A2 terminal of the fuse box.
> 
> -       I read 12.5v between the terminals of the battery.
> 
> I?m a bit baffled. I expected that I?d see about 12V at all points. Even if the fuel gauge was bad, I would have expected to see the same voltage at the battery, A2, A4, and the B terminal of the gauge. As it is, I?m seeing a drop of about 2V among them.
> 
> What might be causing the voltage drops that I?m seeing? Could it be as simple as a broken fuel gauge? If so, how could I test that?
> 
> Moss lists the fuel gauge as NLA. Does anyone know of another source?
> 
> BTW, when I switched my generator for an alternator years ago, I eliminated the control box (regulator).
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> Dave MacKay
> 
> TR3A s/n 68639L
> 
> near Toronto, Canada
> 
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dconnitt at fuse.net
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From dave at mdmackay.ca  Thu May 30 01:41:11 2019
From: dave at mdmackay.ca (Dave MacKay)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2019 03:41:11 -0400
Subject: [TR] Troubleshooting TR3A fuel gauge
In-Reply-To: <375EACD0-EA00-4DA5-A408-3F9D25871C09@fuse.net>
References: <9caba7dc27955d4c0578025ab5adf13c@mail.gmail.com>
 <5E924805-84E3-4CBF-AD01-4840AF1895EE@flash.net>
 <375EACD0-EA00-4DA5-A408-3F9D25871C09@fuse.net>
Message-ID: <9a4a00ee66d69a3a3ffe9fce75a35c03@mail.gmail.com>

Troubleshooting TR3A fuel gauge

On 30 May, Dave Connitt <dconnitt at fuse.net> wrote:

>Hi Dave,

>Doesn?t the TR3 have a voltage regulator for the fuel and temperature
gauges like the TR4 and TR4A?

>Dave Connitt



The TR3A came with a generators that required a control box (voltage
regulator). The regulator can be eliminated if the car is modified to use
an alternator. I got rid of my regulator when I installed the alternator.



When present, the control box only served the ammeter directly. The
ammeter, in turn, is connected to the unswitched side of the fuse box. The
fuel gauge is connected to the switched side of the fuse box..



Thanks,



Dave MacKay

TR3A s/n 68639L

Near Toronto, Canada
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From dave at mdmackay.ca  Thu May 30 01:44:43 2019
From: dave at mdmackay.ca (Dave MacKay)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2019 03:44:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] Troubleshooting TR3A fuel gauge
In-Reply-To: <45169D326FA442D893E46EA557139B64@RYPC>
References: <9caba7dc27955d4c0578025ab5adf13c@mail.gmail.com>
 <45169D326FA442D893E46EA557139B64@RYPC>
Message-ID: <3c7adb156b86225de273049cde412ac5@mail.gmail.com>

On 30 May, Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
>>
>> -       I read 10.6V at the B terminal of the fuel gauge
>>
>> -       I read 10.9V at the A4 terminal of the fuse box.
>>
>> -       I read 11.9V at the A2 terminal of the fuse box.
>>
>> -       I read 12.5v between the terminals of the battery.
>>
>> I'm a bit baffled. I expected that I'd see about 12V at all points.
>> Even if the fuel gauge was bad, I would have expected to see the same
>> voltage at the battery, A2, A4, and the B terminal of the gauge. As it
>> is, I'm seeing a drop of about 2V among them.
>>
>> What might be causing the voltage drops that I'm seeing?
>> Could it be as simple as a broken fuel gauge? If so, how could I test
>> that?
>
>You've got multiple bad connections, in the sense they present some
resistance.  Not at all unusual on these old cars.
>
>The variation is most likely the sender jumping around, but could also be
an intermittent connection somewhere.
>
>I would start walking along the circuit, going point to point along the
conductor instead of each point to ground.  Maybe start with the battery
hot post to the terminal for the brown wire at the starter solenoid.  Then
that terminal to A1 on the fuse block >(which should be a direct run of
fairly heavy brown wire).  Etc, etc.  Each time you find a voltage drop,
disassemble, clean and inspect the joint.
>
>If the drop is happening in the wire, consider replacing the wire.
>
>But my guess is that you have a post-60K TR3A with the Lucar connectors,
and you'll find that all the drops are happening at the Lucar connectors.
They were never designed to last this long!  Generally though, cleaning
the male tab, smearing a little bit of >your favorite preservative on it
(silicone grease or even Vaseline), and pinching the female connection a
bit before reinstalling it; will make a noticeable improvement.  If not,
the next step is to replace the female connector.  Preferably (IMO) with a
quality >non-insulated terminal, both crimped and soldered to the wire,
then insulated with two pieces of heat shrink tubing.  I put a short slide
show up at https://imgur.com/a/yETAubD
>
>-- Randall

Thank-you for your reply.

You are correct in that my car is post 60000 and has Lucar connectors.
I've changed a couple of the connectors in chasing down the fuel gauge
issue. I also changed the fuse box. The wire did look like the first image
in your slide show.

I'm not clear on what you mean about "going point to point along the
conductor instead of each point to ground". I can do a continuity check or
test for resistance between two points on a wire, but I can only measure
voltage at a point to ground. Sorry if I'm a bit dense in comprehending
your meaning.

Is there a point at which the voltage is too low for the fuel gauge
circuit to work? I'm more familiar with digital circuitry where there is a
clearly defined range for 1 and for 0. As long as one is inside the range
all is well.

Thanks,

Dave MacKay
TR3A s/n 68639L
Near Toronto, Canada

From dave at mdmackay.ca  Thu May 30 01:49:15 2019
From: dave at mdmackay.ca (Dave MacKay)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2019 03:49:15 -0400
Subject: [TR] Troubleshooting TR3A fuel gauge
In-Reply-To: <13ED4332-F55A-41C9-9180-C4BDFFF6DA8A@flash.net>
References: <9caba7dc27955d4c0578025ab5adf13c@mail.gmail.com>
 <5E924805-84E3-4CBF-AD01-4840AF1895EE@flash.net>
 <CACHy70sTqrxg+FtrJoghYSQcqCTj1fDbf+zvaKJAZn-HVG+dtQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <13ED4332-F55A-41C9-9180-C4BDFFF6DA8A@flash.net>
Message-ID: <74d29152f60ce52f9d21845a3d965ec9@mail.gmail.com>

On 30 May, Bill Beech <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:

>Dave,

>Be sure the gauge body is grounded.  Check resistance at the sender with
wires off, with wires connected you should see the gauge moving.

>Good luck,

>Bill

>

>Sent from my DynaTAC 8000X

>

>On May 29, 2019, at 11:38 PM, Dave MacKay <mailto:dave at mdmackay.ca> wrote:

>Thanks Bill.

>

>I should've thought of connecting 12v directly to the B post of the gauge.
I'll try that to see if it makes a difference. I'll also try putting 12v to
the T post of the gauge (the side going to the sender unit) to see if I get
a steady resistance (ohms).

>

>I'm happy for your help.

>

>Thank-you,

>

>Dave

>

>On Thu, May 30, 2019, 12:10 AM mailto:Wbeech at flash.net, <mailto:
wbeech at flash.net> wrote:

>Barney at http://Mgaguru.com is a good guy that knows his stuff.   Ohms
should roughly go from 10-90(Barney says 0-70) with the clothes hanger and
all wires disconnected.

>

>Check all your related connections, the sender and the gauge need to be
grounded

>

>I would expect 12v at the hot post of the gauge.  If your not getting it
try a direct jumper and test the system.   New gauges are NLA but you can
either find them on eBay or other parts sites, or send your gauge AND
sender to one of the several reputable >instrument rebuilders.

>

>Bill B

>TS30800L

>Sent from my DynaTAC 8000X

>

>On May 29, 2019, at 10:29 PM, Dave MacKay <mailto:dave at mdmackay.ca> wrote:

>Hello:

>I?ve been troubleshooting the fuel gauge on my TR3A because it has not
been providing an accurate indication (or even a reasonable approximation)
of the fuel level in my tank.

>I referred to a number of documents and old posts about how to
troubleshoot and calibrate the fuel gauge and sending unit (e.g.,
https://www.triumphexp.com/forum/tr2-and-tr3-forum.6/faulty-fuel-gauge-57-tr-3.1244960/
and >http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/fg_01htm).

>I started by looping a clothes hanger around the float in the tank and
reading how many ohms I saw at different levels. What I found was that the
reading fluctuated --- it didn?t stay the same even when I held the float
at one level. I then checked to ensure >that the grounds were good (they
were). Before concluding that the sending unit was flakey, I thought I?d
better ensure that I was getting good power to the unit.

>That?s where things got weird.

>-       I read 7.6V between the sending unit and ground.

>-       I read 7.65V between the T terminal of the fuel gauge (which
connects to the fuel tank sending unit) and ground. However, this reading
was erratic; the value would change to, say 4V.

>-       I read 10.6V at the B terminal of the fuel gauge

>-       I read 10.9V at the A4 terminal of the fuse box.

>-       I read 11.9V at the A2 terminal of the fuse box.

>-       I read 12.5v between the terminals of the battery.

>I?m a bit baffled. I expected that I?d see about 12V at all points. Even
if the fuel gauge was bad, I would have expected to see the same voltage at
the battery, A2, A4, and the B terminal of the gauge. As it is, I?m seeing
a drop of about 2V among them.

>What might be causing the voltage drops that I?m seeing? Could it be as
simple as a broken fuel gauge? If so, how could I test that?

>Moss lists the fuel gauge as NLA. Does anyone know of another source?

>BTW, when I switched my generator for an alternator years ago, I
eliminated the control box (regulator).

>Thanks in advance.

>Dave MacKay

>TR3A s/n 68639L

>near Toronto, Canada



Thanks Bill.



The gauge is grounded via the holder with the knurled nut. It reads good. I
hooked up a separate ground wire but it didn?t make a difference so that I
felt confident the ground was good.



When you said to check resistance at the sender with wires off, did you
mean power off (e.g., battery disconnected) or to physically disconnect
both wires? I had thought that as long as the power was off I could just
hook up my multimeter and measure the resistance as I moved the float.



Dave
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From dave1massey at cs.com  Thu May 30 05:35:13 2019
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2019 11:35:13 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Troubleshooting TR3A fuel gauge
References: <88040791.6659675.1559216113950.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <88040791.6659675.1559216113950@mail.yahoo.com>

 No, the TR3 gauges are quite different from the TR4-6 style gauges.? The TR3 gauge has a compensating coil to stabilize the reading over varying supply voltages.? Since the TR3 has a mechanical temperature gauge the fuel gauge is the only gauge that needs this feature.? The TR4 introduced the electrical temperature gauge and the voltage stabilizer style was adopted, probably for cost purposes since there are now two gauges that require voltage compensation.
I've calibrated (or attempted to) my TR3 fuel gauge and it is quite the fiddly process.? Probably another reason for the change.

An interesting note: the TR7 and TR8 reverted to the self-compensating gauges which include the compensating coils.
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Connitt <dconnitt at fuse.net>
To: Wbeech at flash.net <wbeech at flash.net>
Cc: triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>; Dave MacKay <dave at mdmackay.ca>
Sent: Thu, May 30, 2019 2:22 am
Subject: Re: [TR] Troubleshooting TR3A fuel gauge

Hi Dave,Doesn?t the TR3 have a voltage regulator for the fuel and temperature gauges like the TR4 and TR4A??Dave Connitt?


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From dave1massey at cs.com  Thu May 30 05:39:58 2019
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2019 11:39:58 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Tr8 air conditioning
In-Reply-To: <765C507C-32A2-4A9C-AC29-DD6259DB7F68@gmail.com>
References: <765C507C-32A2-4A9C-AC29-DD6259DB7F68@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <699988369.5858832.1559216398304@mail.yahoo.com>

 That is a very common compressor used on GM cars in the late 70's and early 80's.? But the replacements are a bit different since the port for the superheat switch has been repurposed to a high pressure cutout switch so, don't use the time-delay fuse.? 
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com>
To: triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, May 29, 2019 4:14 pm
Subject: [TR] Tr8 air conditioning

Anyone know source for stock AC parts for low mileage 81 tr8.? Delco R4 compressor.? Want to update to modern r134 but want stock appearance.
Thanks,
Jim Henningsen
Ocala FL



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From fishplate at gmail.com  Thu May 30 06:59:04 2019
From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2019 08:59:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] Troubleshooting TR3A fuel gauge
In-Reply-To: <9a4a00ee66d69a3a3ffe9fce75a35c03@mail.gmail.com>
References: <9caba7dc27955d4c0578025ab5adf13c@mail.gmail.com>
 <5E924805-84E3-4CBF-AD01-4840AF1895EE@flash.net>
 <375EACD0-EA00-4DA5-A408-3F9D25871C09@fuse.net>
 <9a4a00ee66d69a3a3ffe9fce75a35c03@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAO8Q7COGVNf9tFd5pH3TkJBe2tiM-H3A7SWDB3mRsx24aqki0A@mail.gmail.com>

On Thu, May 30, 2019 at 3:41 AM Dave MacKay <dave at mdmackay.ca> wrote:
>
> >Doesn?t the TR3 have a voltage regulator for the fuel and temperature gauges like the TR4 and TR4A?
>
> The TR3A came with a generators that required a control box (voltage regulator). The regulator can be eliminated if the car is modified to use an alternator. I got rid of my regulator when I installed the alternator.

I believe he was talking about the regulator that provides 10V to the
fuel gauge and the temperature gauge.  It's on all the newer cars; I
don't know about TR3 though.  Looking at
http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr24a.pdf , it appears that regulator
came in with the TR4.

From trguy75 at gmail.com  Thu May 30 08:06:52 2019
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2019 10:06:52 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tr8 air conditioning
In-Reply-To: <699988369.5858832.1559216398304@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <765C507C-32A2-4A9C-AC29-DD6259DB7F68@gmail.com>
 <699988369.5858832.1559216398304@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <9701DACF-53D8-460B-9F8E-1D12260FD03D@gmail.com>

Dave,
Thanks. That?s Greek to me as I have never worked on AC before.  Was hoping there would be a specific part cross reference on Delco r4 unit that would be a bolt in.
Jim

Sent from my iPad

> On May 30, 2019, at 7:39 AM, DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:
> 
> That is a very common compressor used on GM cars in the late 70's and early 80's.  But the replacements are a bit different since the port for the superheat switch has been repurposed to a high pressure cutout switch so, don't use the time-delay fuse.  
> 
> Dave 
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jim Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com>
> To: triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wed, May 29, 2019 4:14 pm
> Subject: [TR] Tr8 air conditioning
> 
> Anyone know source for stock AC parts for low mileage 81 tr8.  Delco R4 compressor.  Want to update to modern r134 but want stock appearance.
> Thanks,
> Jim Henningsen
> Ocala FL
> 
> 
> 
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From terryrs at comcast.net  Thu May 30 08:45:21 2019
From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2019 10:45:21 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Electrical Gremlin
In-Reply-To: <CAFtw3aYBp3e0DwgPbhEr7pEPcndE=+P6bq1Q2qm7hE-Q7mOrYA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <765C507C-32A2-4A9C-AC29-DD6259DB7F68@gmail.com>
 <976614161.167610.1559180205648@connect.xfinity.com>
 <223F1A056BA74633A9DEA2FFEDFF752B@RYPC>
 <CAFtw3aYBp3e0DwgPbhEr7pEPcndE=+P6bq1Q2qm7hE-Q7mOrYA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2116162740.172177.1559227522299@connect.xfinity.com>

Sorry, everyone.  I meant to say the floats themselves have no fuel, meaning no pinholes causing flooding.  

> On May 30, 2019 at 2:29 AM Greg Lemon <grglmn at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
>     To focus on what Randall said "float bowls have no fuel in them" Car won't run without it, do you have a clogged line?  I have had this happen on several cars, fuel flows when you turn the car on, whatever is restricting (usually chunks or tiny flakes of rust) is drawn to they line intake on the tank or other point of restriction and fuel stops, sometimes runs for a few minutes, sometimes ten or 15.  You stop for long enough it will start again and repeat the cycle.
> 
>     Just a thought.
> 
>     Greg Lemon
>     TR250
> 
>     On Thu, May 30, 2019, 7:58 AM Randall < TR3driver at ca.rr.com mailto:TR3driver at ca.rr.com > wrote:
> 
>         > >         > Jets centered, float
> >         > bowls have no gas in them,
> > 
> >         A typo?  Float bowls should have gas in them, engine won't run without gas.
> >         If the bowls are running dry, you've got a fuel delivery problem.
> > 
> >         > So question.  When one has done the Pertronix modification (I
> >         > replaced that too), the generator control is wired
> >         > differently.
> > 
> >         Not that I know of.  I installed a Pertronix, had it running for months,
> >         eventually removed it, no changes at all to generator control.  The
> >         Pertronix needs exactly 3 connections on a TR3A, ground through the point
> >         plate (which can be a problem), power from the hot side of the coil, and the
> >         output to the ground side of the coil.
> > 
> >         > Second question, I can't really tell from the wiring diagram
> >         > whether the generator or the starter could be stealing power
> >         > from the ignition system.
> >         >
> >         > I'll be back at it tomorrow, but any thoughts?
> > 
> >         Instead of replacing everything in sight, try doing some tests.  Temporarily
> >         connect a 12v test light from the coil hot terminal (which should also feed
> >         the Pertronix) to a good ground on the engine.  Start the engine, watch the
> >         light.  It may dim a bit while cranking, but should stay full brightness
> >         once the starter is no longer engaged.  If it dims when the engine dies,
> >         you've proven an electrical problem; which you can now go looking for in a
> >         similar manner.
> > 
> >         If the light stays full brightness, though, either the Pertronix is flaking
> >         out, or the problem lies elsewhere.  I would look next at the ground wire
> >         for the point plate, as they flex in service and sometimes break inside the
> >         insulation.
> > 
> >         -- Randall
> > 
> >         ** triumphs at autox.team.net mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net **
> > 
> >         Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >         Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive
> > 
> >         Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/grglmn at gmail.com
> > 
> >     >     ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
> 
>     Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at comcast.net
> 
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From terryrs at comcast.net  Thu May 30 08:56:35 2019
From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2019 10:56:35 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Electrical Gremlin
In-Reply-To: <223F1A056BA74633A9DEA2FFEDFF752B@RYPC>
References: <765C507C-32A2-4A9C-AC29-DD6259DB7F68@gmail.com>
 <976614161.167610.1559180205648@connect.xfinity.com>
 <223F1A056BA74633A9DEA2FFEDFF752B@RYPC>
Message-ID: <2032699305.172559.1559228196020@connect.xfinity.com>

Thanks, Randall.  You are, of course, right on about doing tests.  Trouble is, this has been an intermittent problem that can test fine at one moment or another and I never know which state it's in at the moment!

Good news (:-p) is, now it starts and stalls right away.  After a moment, it starts again.  Sounds like fuel starvation so checked fuel lines and for any obstruction in the tank (none there).  On the other hand, intermittently, when I turn the ignition switch on, I get nothing.  Other times, I get power but the starter just makes a clunk sound.  Other times, it fires right up.  Sounds like an electrical problem.  

Gadfrey!!!!!

> On May 30, 2019 at 1:53 AM Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> > Jets centered, float 
> > bowls have no gas in them,
> 
> A typo?  Float bowls should have gas in them, engine won't run without gas.
> If the bowls are running dry, you've got a fuel delivery problem.
> 
> > So question.  When one has done the Pertronix modification (I 
> > replaced that too), the generator control is wired 
> > differently.
> 
> Not that I know of.  I installed a Pertronix, had it running for months,
> eventually removed it, no changes at all to generator control.  The
> Pertronix needs exactly 3 connections on a TR3A, ground through the point
> plate (which can be a problem), power from the hot side of the coil, and the
> output to the ground side of the coil.
> 
> > Second question, I can't really tell from the wiring diagram 
> > whether the generator or the starter could be stealing power 
> > from the ignition system.
> > 
> > I'll be back at it tomorrow, but any thoughts?
> 
> Instead of replacing everything in sight, try doing some tests.  Temporarily
> connect a 12v test light from the coil hot terminal (which should also feed
> the Pertronix) to a good ground on the engine.  Start the engine, watch the
> light.  It may dim a bit while cranking, but should stay full brightness
> once the starter is no longer engaged.  If it dims when the engine dies,
> you've proven an electrical problem; which you can now go looking for in a
> similar manner.
> 
> If the light stays full brightness, though, either the Pertronix is flaking
> out, or the problem lies elsewhere.  I would look next at the ground wire
> for the point plate, as they flex in service and sometimes break inside the
> insulation.
> 
> -- Randall
>

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu May 30 09:38:44 2019
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2019 08:38:44 -0700
Subject: [TR] Electrical Gremlin
In-Reply-To: <2032699305.172559.1559228196020@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <765C507C-32A2-4A9C-AC29-DD6259DB7F68@gmail.com>
 <976614161.167610.1559180205648@connect.xfinity.com>
 <223F1A056BA74633A9DEA2FFEDFF752B@RYPC>
 <2032699305.172559.1559228196020@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <F337E2A88334473B8D66355AB146FE6F@RYPC>

So, don't assume it's a single problem.  Focus on one symptom and run it to
ground as far as you can.  Then if something else stops you (like a no-crank
condition), go chase that.

One tactic I've found useful is to connect your meter or test light using a
long cord, so you can bring the meter out where you can see it from the
driver's seat.  Years ago, I went as far as making up a test harness from
about 20' of lamp cord, with alligator clips on one end and pin jacks (to
accept the meter leads) on the other end.  At one point, I drove several
weeks with it connected to the OD relay and the meter on the seat beside me,
so I could turn it on and check relay function any time it acted up. (Turned
out the relay itself was intermittent.)

When the starter just makes a clunk, check how much power is getting to the
starter motor.  If it's getting juice but won't crank the engine, chances
are the motor itself has a problem.  Use the rubber button on the starter
solenoid, as that bypasses all of the wiring harness, dash switches, etc.
Check that the engine can be turned (eg put the gearbox in 4th and push the
car forward enough to see the fan move).  The two most common problems here,
in my experience, are bad connections at the battery posts, and a bad
connection where the battery ground strap joins the body.  Also make sure
the ground strap at the LH motor mount is in place and has good,
metal-to-metal contact at both ends.  (Paint doesn't conduct worth a darn.)

While I dislike throwing parts at problems; those funky "helmet" battery
cables look troublesome to me.  If you have those, you might consider
temporarily replacing the battery cables with ones that have more modern
clamps molded onto them.  Once everything else is sorted, you can go back to
the helmets if you want, with a high confidence that if the problems come
back, the helmets are the problem.  

With the clamps, use a wire brush to clean both the posts and the clamps
just before you put them together.  Just like copper wire, you want the
surfaces bright and shiny when you join them together.  I use a battery
terminal spray like
https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05046-Battery-Terminal-Protector/dp/B000CIPUNC
But again, silicone grease or Vaseline will work better than nothing.

-- Randall 
56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild
71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild 


From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu May 30 09:49:52 2019
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2019 08:49:52 -0700
Subject: [TR] Troubleshooting TR3A fuel gauge
In-Reply-To: <3c7adb156b86225de273049cde412ac5@mail.gmail.com>
References: <9caba7dc27955d4c0578025ab5adf13c@mail.gmail.com>
 <45169D326FA442D893E46EA557139B64@RYPC>
 <3c7adb156b86225de273049cde412ac5@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <0FE483ED97B5459085043FB55F4DA6AB@RYPC>

> I'm not clear on what you mean about "going point to point 
> along the conductor instead of each point to ground".

If the voltage from point A to ground is 10 volts, and the voltage from
point B to ground is 12 volts; then if you connect your voltmeter from point
A to point B, you should read 2 volts.  Makes it easier to see small
differences; as well as removing any uncertainty about the battery voltage
(or voltage drop at some other point) changing between measurements.

I'm sure there is some minimum voltage for the fuel gauge, but I don't know
what it is.  I'm guessing it's well below 10 volts, though.

The thing is, though, each one of those bad connections is going to generate
heat; which accelerates the degradation of the connection.  

The Pertronix also doesn't like low voltage, it won't work at all if it
doesn't get at least 8 volts or so.  Since the starter motor will still turn
the engine (slowly) on less than 8 volts, this leads to an interesting
situation where the Pertronix flat doesn't work, only when you are trying to
start the engine.  That's the main reason I threw mine back in the box.

-- Randall 
56 TR3 TS13571L once and future daily driver
71 Stag LE1473 - awaiting engine rebuild
71-2-3 Stag - awaiting gearbox rebuild 


From dave1massey at cs.com  Thu May 30 10:34:59 2019
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2019 16:34:59 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Tr8 air conditioning
In-Reply-To: <9701DACF-53D8-460B-9F8E-1D12260FD03D@gmail.com>
References: <765C507C-32A2-4A9C-AC29-DD6259DB7F68@gmail.com>
 <699988369.5858832.1559216398304@mail.yahoo.com>
 <9701DACF-53D8-460B-9F8E-1D12260FD03D@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <534932848.6786608.1559234099521@mail.yahoo.com>

 Are you a member of the Triumph Wedge Owners Association?? They have a hand cross reference for all sorts of things
http://wedgelist.triumphwedgeowners.org/crossref/They have an Autozone part number listed, 57225
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com>
To: DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com>
Cc: triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, May 30, 2019 9:06 am
Subject: Re: [TR] Tr8 air conditioning

Dave,Thanks. That?s Greek to me as I have never worked on AC before. ?Was hoping there would be a specific part cross reference on Delco r4 unit that would be a bolt in.Jim

Sent from my iPad
On May 30, 2019, at 7:39 AM, DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:


 That is a very common compressor used on GM cars in the late 70's and early 80's.? But the replacements are a bit different since the port for the superheat switch has been repurposed to a high pressure cutout switch so, don't use the time-delay fuse.? 
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com>
To: triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, May 29, 2019 4:14 pm
Subject: [TR] Tr8 air conditioning

Anyone know source for stock AC parts for low mileage 81 tr8.? Delco R4 compressor.? Want to update to modern r134 but want stock appearance.
Thanks,
Jim Henningsen
Ocala FL




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From triumphstag at gmail.com  Thu May 30 11:16:38 2019
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2019 10:16:38 -0700
Subject: [TR] anyone got a coupon code for gasket innovations they want to
 share?
Message-ID: <CANLCLaFM7QezCPb9qdSp3_JHMbykxYe8UE1k7B5e4WEdZKkWyg@mail.gmail.com>

Sujit

-- 
Sujit Roy
Cupertino, California

https://triumphstagblog.wordpress.com/
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From keithstewart at bell.net  Thu May 30 13:37:36 2019
From: keithstewart at bell.net (Keith Richard Stewart)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2019 15:37:36 -0400
Subject: [TR] Electrical Gremlin
In-Reply-To: <976614161.167610.1559180205648@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <765C507C-32A2-4A9C-AC29-DD6259DB7F68@gmail.com>
 <976614161.167610.1559180205648@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <035301d5171f$22ba7e10$682f7a30$@bell.net>

TERRY SMITH wrote on May 29, 2019 9:37 PM
++++++++++

TR3 engine starts and runs, then flutters and, now, dies.  I've been through the fuel system completely, short of a magnet in the fuel tank, which I might try.  Completely disassembled the carbs again today.  Jets centered, float bowls have no gas in them, float valves perfectly adjusted, and the puff test shows they stop flow as they should.  Mixture and idle is right.  Not to mention I tried a complete swap out of these carbs (rebuilt by Quantum Mechanics some years back).  

I've tracked wiring through the system.  I thought a partial open (broken wires) at the lighting switch where it feeds the ignition switch would fix it.  Didn't.  Replaced the 60 year old ignition switch. Didn't fix it.  Double checked the fuse holder for solid and clean connections.  Not the issue.  When it does run, the voltmeter (not ammeter) shows just the 12 volts from the battery, and not a charge.  White wire from the fuse to the coil tests no short to ground, and bypassing it with another connecting wire doesn't cure the problem either.  
++++++++++
Symptoms seem similar to a problem we had in my wife's TR6. Do you have a spare coil to swap in? That was her problem. Previous owner had an engine rebuild and the rebuilder put back in a 40+ year old coil. Replacement coil and tight connections were an easy fix.


Keith Stewart
keithstewart at bell.net




From terryrs at comcast.net  Thu May 30 16:54:44 2019
From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2019 18:54:44 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Electrical Gremlin
In-Reply-To: <035301d5171f$22ba7e10$682f7a30$@bell.net>
References: <765C507C-32A2-4A9C-AC29-DD6259DB7F68@gmail.com>
 <976614161.167610.1559180205648@connect.xfinity.com>
 <035301d5171f$22ba7e10$682f7a30$@bell.net>
Message-ID: <394050354.188040.1559256885328@connect.xfinity.com>

Good suggestion, Keith.  Thanks.  Yep, did try that.  And Voltage to the coil checks at 12.3 volts.  

At this point, after the engine sits for about ten or so minutes, it'll start and rev quickly, then completely stall.  

I've run the new electric fuel pump for a time into a 5 gallon jug and got good pressure throughout, so concerns about an intermittent weak connection there are reduced.  And I can't see any circuit on that side of the fuse box that could drain all power from it.  I did check all the things Randall mentioned already, even swapped out the battery for another I had (marine for my dump trailer).  I did a complete tune-up...needed one anyway...with new plugs, wires, dizzy cap and rotor.  Tomorrow am going back to square one to check the Pertronix, swapping it back to points.  As some have experienced, I may have gotten a bad set when I replaced it.  I just can't figure what could allow it to start, rev, then die immediately other than, as Randall mentioned, Pertronix likes high voltage and something is robbing it once the engine starts firing. That's why I wonder if the starter or the generator control box might be the culprit.  (BTW, the control box is indeed wired for a generator; I forgot that some time ago I'd switched back to one from the alternator conversion I ran for a time.) 

Staying positive, I sense copious beer in my future once this thing finally fires up and runs!

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A  TS 58667
New Hampshire


> On May 30, 2019 at 3:37 PM Keith Richard Stewart <keithstewart at bell.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> TERRY SMITH wrote on May 29, 2019 9:37 PM
> ++++++++++
> 
> TR3 engine starts and runs, then flutters and, now, dies.  I've been through the fuel system completely, short of a magnet in the fuel tank, which I might try.  Completely disassembled the carbs again today.  Jets centered, float bowls have no gas in them, float valves perfectly adjusted, and the puff test shows they stop flow as they should.  Mixture and idle is right.  Not to mention I tried a complete swap out of these carbs (rebuilt by Quantum Mechanics some years back).  
> 
> I've tracked wiring through the system.  I thought a partial open (broken wires) at the lighting switch where it feeds the ignition switch would fix it.  Didn't.  Replaced the 60 year old ignition switch. Didn't fix it.  Double checked the fuse holder for solid and clean connections.  Not the issue.  When it does run, the voltmeter (not ammeter) shows just the 12 volts from the battery, and not a charge.  White wire from the fuse to the coil tests no short to ground, and bypassing it with another connecting wire doesn't cure the problem either.  
> ++++++++++
> Symptoms seem similar to a problem we had in my wife's TR6. Do you have a spare coil to swap in? That was her problem. Previous owner had an engine rebuild and the rebuilder put back in a 40+ year old coil. Replacement coil and tight connections were an easy fix.
> 
> 
> Keith Stewart
> keithstewart at bell.net
> 
> 
>

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Thu May 30 19:04:08 2019
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2019 21:04:08 -0400
Subject: [TR] Troubleshooting TR3A fuel gauge
In-Reply-To: <0FE483ED97B5459085043FB55F4DA6AB@RYPC>
References: <9caba7dc27955d4c0578025ab5adf13c@mail.gmail.com>
 <45169D326FA442D893E46EA557139B64@RYPC>
 <3c7adb156b86225de273049cde412ac5@mail.gmail.com>
 <0FE483ED97B5459085043FB55F4DA6AB@RYPC>
Message-ID: <CANhzkeNdLHSWQS1Kf2qXBRUkRVg-YPcNHfs5TiyKePf2pRJ2bQ@mail.gmail.com>

I still use a stick... One day I'll get around to sorting it out. :)
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From dave1massey at cs.com  Thu May 30 19:43:18 2019
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Fri, 31 May 2019 01:43:18 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Troubleshooting TR3A fuel gauge
In-Reply-To: <CANhzkeNdLHSWQS1Kf2qXBRUkRVg-YPcNHfs5TiyKePf2pRJ2bQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <9caba7dc27955d4c0578025ab5adf13c@mail.gmail.com>
 <45169D326FA442D893E46EA557139B64@RYPC>
 <3c7adb156b86225de273049cde412ac5@mail.gmail.com>
 <0FE483ED97B5459085043FB55F4DA6AB@RYPC>
 <CANhzkeNdLHSWQS1Kf2qXBRUkRVg-YPcNHfs5TiyKePf2pRJ2bQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <674640112.7017158.1559266998124@mail.yahoo.com>

 And a gallon can in the trunk?
 
Dave 

 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen at gmail.com>
To: list Triumph <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, May 30, 2019 8:04 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] Troubleshooting TR3A fuel gauge

I still use a stick... One day I'll get around to sorting it out. :)** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Fri May 31 11:58:47 2019
From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer)
Date: Fri, 31 May 2019 10:58:47 -0700
Subject: [TR] Nexen tires for a TR3A
In-Reply-To: <0FE483ED97B5459085043FB55F4DA6AB@RYPC>
References: <9caba7dc27955d4c0578025ab5adf13c@mail.gmail.com>
 <45169D326FA442D893E46EA557139B64@RYPC>
 <3c7adb156b86225de273049cde412ac5@mail.gmail.com>
 <0FE483ED97B5459085043FB55F4DA6AB@RYPC>
Message-ID: <005e01d517da$7f59f950$7e0debf0$@net>

Anyone have any experience with the Nexen tire (SB802)? There are very few
tire stores around here that can still mount a tire on a wire wheel and the
only tire they seem to be able to get in a 165/80-15 is the Nexen. If I go
with a wider tire, will I have a problem with rubbing and will the steering
be even harder? 

Thanks,
Bob


From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Fri May 31 12:35:24 2019
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (CFM-TR)
Date: Fri, 31 May 2019 14:35:24 -0400
Subject: [TR] Nexen tires for a TR3A
In-Reply-To: <005e01d517da$7f59f950$7e0debf0$@net>
References: <9caba7dc27955d4c0578025ab5adf13c@mail.gmail.com>
 <45169D326FA442D893E46EA557139B64@RYPC>
 <3c7adb156b86225de273049cde412ac5@mail.gmail.com>
 <0FE483ED97B5459085043FB55F4DA6AB@RYPC> <005e01d517da$7f59f950$7e0debf0$@net>
Message-ID: <038801d517df$9d960c60$d8c22520$@verizon.net>

Have the Nexen's; replaced 10 year old Dunlops (because of sidewall
cracking) about 3 years ago.  Very similar tread design.  Don't run many
miles so can't tell you about longevity.  Minimal lead to balance tires.  In
fact, one didn't require any.  I don't know if I believe it but the old guy
that did the balancing said that many times it is the wheel (either wire or
steel or even mag repro's) that cause the balancing problems.  Many times
you can move the tire on the wheel 1/8 or 1/4 turn at a time and eliminate
the issue.

Carl 
1960 Triumph TR3
TS81802LO
Tampa, FL



-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Kinderlehrer
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2019 1:59 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Nexen tires for a TR3A

Anyone have any experience with the Nexen tire (SB802)? There are very few
tire stores around here that can still mount a tire on a wire wheel and the
only tire they seem to be able to get in a 165/80-15 is the Nexen. If I go
with a wider tire, will I have a problem with rubbing and will the steering
be even harder? 

Thanks,
Bob

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net


From wbeech at flash.net  Fri May 31 12:56:51 2019
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net)
Date: Fri, 31 May 2019 13:56:51 -0500
Subject: [TR] Nexen tires for a TR3A
In-Reply-To: <005e01d517da$7f59f950$7e0debf0$@net>
References: <9caba7dc27955d4c0578025ab5adf13c@mail.gmail.com>
 <45169D326FA442D893E46EA557139B64@RYPC>
 <3c7adb156b86225de273049cde412ac5@mail.gmail.com>
 <0FE483ED97B5459085043FB55F4DA6AB@RYPC> <005e01d517da$7f59f950$7e0debf0$@net>
Message-ID: <9BE1F86A-A821-4EAC-84A8-BF620BCBA115@flash.net>

I have Vredesteins on the TR3, excellent handling.  Also, Firestone has this size too, Coker may have this in their Michelin X tire, I know they have 155 but not sure about 165.  

As for rubbing with wider tires, someone else needs to comment, I have run 165 width on 6? minilites with great results, more rubber on the ground and no rubbing.  

Just my thoughts,
Bill B
TS30800L

Sent from my DynaTAC 8000X

On May 31, 2019, at 12:58 PM, Kinderlehrer <kinderlehrer at comcast.net> wrote:

Anyone have any experience with the Nexen tire (SB802)? There are very few
tire stores around here that can still mount a tire on a wire wheel and the
only tire they seem to be able to get in a 165/80-15 is the Nexen. If I go
with a wider tire, will I have a problem with rubbing and will the steering
be even harder? 

Thanks,
Bob

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net


From Randall.Reihing at utoledo.edu  Fri May 31 13:46:57 2019
From: Randall.Reihing at utoledo.edu (Reihing, Randall S.)
Date: Fri, 31 May 2019 19:46:57 +0000
Subject: [TR] Nexen tires for a TR3A
In-Reply-To: <9BE1F86A-A821-4EAC-84A8-BF620BCBA115@flash.net>
References: <9caba7dc27955d4c0578025ab5adf13c@mail.gmail.com>
 <45169D326FA442D893E46EA557139B64@RYPC>
 <3c7adb156b86225de273049cde412ac5@mail.gmail.com>
 <0FE483ED97B5459085043FB55F4DA6AB@RYPC>
 <005e01d517da$7f59f950$7e0debf0$@net>,
 <9BE1F86A-A821-4EAC-84A8-BF620BCBA115@flash.net>
Message-ID: <DM6PR01MB500347EA365952D376E2787EEC190@DM6PR01MB5003.prod.exchangelabs.com>


When recently buying a set of four Michelin Defender's for my truck, owned since new and never wrecked or damaged, etc., there was a balancing issue with the new Michelin Defender's. The usual weights were not achieving the vibration free use the prior, worn down but smooth driving BFG tires had demonstrated.


Tireman of Maumee, Ohio (zero affiliation on my part except as a customer), where I buy tires, the salesman said the wheel may be the culprit for my vibration complaint on the brand new Michelin Defender's that had just been installed and had been balanced but were vibrating enough at normal expressway speed limits of 55-65 mph, I could feel it in the steering wheel and it was really annoying.


I returned in less than 8 miles. The Tireman salesman said Tireman had a balancing option referred to as "Force Balancing" wherein they don't use the usual weight's. For "Force Balancing" they use a different machine and move the tire around the rim a very small amount several times until they find the perfect balancing location of tire to wheel. This worked for me and an hour later the truck is now as vibration free and smooth driving as it was when new.


Randall Reihing

1959 TR3A


________________________________
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Wbeech at flash.net <wbeech at flash.net>
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2019 2:56:51 PM
To: Kinderlehrer
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Nexen tires for a TR3A

I have Vredesteins on the TR3, excellent handling.  Also, Firestone has this size too, Coker may have this in their Michelin X tire, I know they have 155 but not sure about 165.

As for rubbing with wider tires, someone else needs to comment, I have run 165 width on 6? minilites with great results, more rubber on the ground and no rubbing.

Just my thoughts,
Bill B
TS30800L

Sent from my DynaTAC 8000X

On May 31, 2019, at 12:58 PM, Kinderlehrer <kinderlehrer at comcast.net> wrote:

Anyone have any experience with the Nexen tire (SB802)? There are very few
tire stores around here that can still mount a tire on a wire wheel and the
only tire they seem to be able to get in a 165/80-15 is the Nexen. If I go
with a wider tire, will I have a problem with rubbing and will the steering
be even harder?

Thanks,
Bob

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwIGaQ&c=heEcP2AsrLOv4XP8e7I9NA&r=M9Vli1OgG7_7RAFFVpeXHiQAUCpprOLL1VRvWP3OJtI&m=sIbPP47VYWmrf6ajCDUoEZFz9LwJzTVI-Trn6i6s1ZE&s=rRlI4myb_ZZ9d6o38g20B7GOhWdrL0qKDPSeZ_p5KG8&e=
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From terryrs at comcast.net  Fri May 31 14:15:49 2019
From: terryrs at comcast.net (TERRY SMITH)
Date: Fri, 31 May 2019 16:15:49 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Vacuum Leak
In-Reply-To: <DM6PR01MB500347EA365952D376E2787EEC190@DM6PR01MB5003.prod.exchangelabs.com>
References: <9caba7dc27955d4c0578025ab5adf13c@mail.gmail.com>
 <45169D326FA442D893E46EA557139B64@RYPC>
 <3c7adb156b86225de273049cde412ac5@mail.gmail.com>
 <0FE483ED97B5459085043FB55F4DA6AB@RYPC>
 <005e01d517da$7f59f950$7e0debf0$@net>,
 <9BE1F86A-A821-4EAC-84A8-BF620BCBA115@flash.net>
 <DM6PR01MB500347EA365952D376E2787EEC190@DM6PR01MB5003.prod.exchangelabs.com>
Message-ID: <1803963313.393364.1559333749969@connect.xfinity.com>

Randall was right.  I did have multiple problems.  Closer inspection of the ground in the distributor plate showed it was connected and tested fine with an ohms check, but in truth was hanging on by just a few threads.  Fabricated another and now spark is exceptional out of the wire.  Don't ask me how I know that but if you'd like a recommendation of the type screwdriver to test the wire to ground, I can tell you which kind NOT to use.  


So...the 3 has spark to the plugs and has fuel to the carbs.  Engine cranks but won't catch.  Rechecked float specs and they're good.  Reset richness to 12 flat start-up specs.  So good.  Ran a timing light to see if it had jumped time, tested good.  


I'm now suspecting a severe enough vacuum leak to keep the gas from being sucked into the chambers.  Checked valve lash, no issues.  Compression test shows 90 plus in all cylinders.  I can't see the intake manifold gasket on the bottom, but that's where it would be...if it is.  


Question:  with the carbs off and using the solenoid to crank the engine, how much should one feel suction against ones hand at the ports of the intake manifold?  I'm barely feeling any if at all.  Certainly not enough to draw gas in.  


Thanks, everyone, for your patience!


Terry Smith, '59 TR3A  TS 58667

New Hampshire
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From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Fri May 31 14:20:37 2019
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Fri, 31 May 2019 16:20:37 -0400
Subject: [TR] Nexen tires for a TR3A
In-Reply-To: <DM6PR01MB500347EA365952D376E2787EEC190@DM6PR01MB5003.prod.exchangelabs.com>
References: <9caba7dc27955d4c0578025ab5adf13c@mail.gmail.com>
 <45169D326FA442D893E46EA557139B64@RYPC>
 <3c7adb156b86225de273049cde412ac5@mail.gmail.com>
 <0FE483ED97B5459085043FB55F4DA6AB@RYPC> <005e01d517da$7f59f950$7e0debf0$@net>,
 <9BE1F86A-A821-4EAC-84A8-BF620BCBA115@flash.net>
 <DM6PR01MB500347EA365952D376E2787EEC190@DM6PR01MB5003.prod.exchangelabs.com>
Message-ID: <CD362232858B49599B58EE935EB711B4@VlackTK121647>

Moral of the story is don?t buy Michelin tires. Actually just my personal opinion, I?ve had them on new cars and could not wait until I could replace them. I think they are overrated. 

From: Reihing, Randall S. 
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2019 3:46 PM
To: Wbeech at flash.net ; Kinderlehrer 
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Subject: Re: [TR] Nexen tires for a TR3A



When recently buying a set of four Michelin Defender's for my truck, owned since new and never wrecked or damaged, etc., there was a balancing issue with the new Michelin Defender's. The usual weights were not achieving the vibration free use the prior, worn down but smooth driving BFG tires had demonstrated. 



Tireman of Maumee, Ohio (zero affiliation on my part except as a customer), where I buy tires, the salesman said the wheel may be the culprit for my vibration complaint on the brand new Michelin Defender's that had just been installed and had been balanced but were vibrating enough at normal expressway speed limits of 55-65 mph, I could feel it in the steering wheel and it was really annoying. 



I returned in less than 8 miles. The Tireman salesman said Tireman had a balancing option referred to as "Force Balancing" wherein they don't use the usual weight's. For "Force Balancing" they use a different machine and move the tire around the rim a very small amount several times until they find the perfect balancing location of tire to wheel. This worked for me and an hour later the truck is now as vibration free and smooth driving as it was when new. 



Randall Reihing

1959 TR3A




--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Wbeech at flash.net <wbeech at flash.net>
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2019 2:56:51 PM
To: Kinderlehrer
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Nexen tires for a TR3A 

I have Vredesteins on the TR3, excellent handling.  Also, Firestone has this size too, Coker may have this in their Michelin X tire, I know they have 155 but not sure about 165.  

As for rubbing with wider tires, someone else needs to comment, I have run 165 width on 6? minilites with great results, more rubber on the ground and no rubbing.  

Just my thoughts,
Bill B
TS30800L

Sent from my DynaTAC 8000X

On May 31, 2019, at 12:58 PM, Kinderlehrer <kinderlehrer at comcast.net> wrote:

Anyone have any experience with the Nexen tire (SB802)? There are very few
tire stores around here that can still mount a tire on a wire wheel and the
only tire they seem to be able to get in a 165/80-15 is the Nexen. If I go
with a wider tire, will I have a problem with rubbing and will the steering
be even harder? 

Thanks,
Bob

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwIGaQ&c=heEcP2AsrLOv4XP8e7I9NA&r=M9Vli1OgG7_7RAFFVpeXHiQAUCpprOLL1VRvWP3OJtI&m=sIbPP47VYWmrf6ajCDUoEZFz9LwJzTVI-Trn6i6s1ZE&s=rRlI4myb_ZZ9d6o38g20B7GOhWdrL0qKDPSeZ_p5KG8&e= 
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From kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Fri May 31 14:22:22 2019
From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer)
Date: Fri, 31 May 2019 13:22:22 -0700
Subject: [TR] Nexen tires for a TR3A
In-Reply-To: <9BE1F86A-A821-4EAC-84A8-BF620BCBA115@flash.net>
References: <9caba7dc27955d4c0578025ab5adf13c@mail.gmail.com>
 <45169D326FA442D893E46EA557139B64@RYPC>
 <3c7adb156b86225de273049cde412ac5@mail.gmail.com>
 <0FE483ED97B5459085043FB55F4DA6AB@RYPC> <005e01d517da$7f59f950$7e0debf0$@net>
 <9BE1F86A-A821-4EAC-84A8-BF620BCBA115@flash.net>
Message-ID: <007301d517ee$8e0c1730$aa244590$@net>

Thanks. I was offered other brands, like American Tire and BF Goodrich, but at more than twice the price. These are $80/tire, which is really inexpensive - if it's a decent tire. I've seen the Vredesteins on Coker for $120, but I  prefer to buy the tires from the installer.

Bob 

-----Original Message-----
From: Wbeech at flash.net [mailto:wbeech at flash.net] 
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2019 11:57 AM
To: Kinderlehrer
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Nexen tires for a TR3A

I have Vredesteins on the TR3, excellent handling.  Also, Firestone has this size too, Coker may have this in their Michelin X tire, I know they have 155 but not sure about 165.  

As for rubbing with wider tires, someone else needs to comment, I have run 165 width on 6? minilites with great results, more rubber on the ground and no rubbing.  

Just my thoughts,
Bill B
TS30800L

Sent from my DynaTAC 8000X

On May 31, 2019, at 12:58 PM, Kinderlehrer <kinderlehrer at comcast.net> wrote:

Anyone have any experience with the Nexen tire (SB802)? There are very few tire stores around here that can still mount a tire on a wire wheel and the only tire they seem to be able to get in a 165/80-15 is the Nexen. If I go with a wider tire, will I have a problem with rubbing and will the steering be even harder? 

Thanks,
Bob

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive

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From kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Fri May 31 14:30:15 2019
From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer)
Date: Fri, 31 May 2019 13:30:15 -0700
Subject: [TR] Nexen tires for a TR3A
In-Reply-To: <CD362232858B49599B58EE935EB711B4@VlackTK121647>
References: <9caba7dc27955d4c0578025ab5adf13c@mail.gmail.com>
 <45169D326FA442D893E46EA557139B64@RYPC>
 <3c7adb156b86225de273049cde412ac5@mail.gmail.com>
 <0FE483ED97B5459085043FB55F4DA6AB@RYPC> <005e01d517da$7f59f950$7e0debf0$@net>,
 <9BE1F86A-A821-4EAC-84A8-BF620BCBA115@flash.net>
 <DM6PR01MB500347EA365952D376E2787EEC190@DM6PR01MB5003.prod.exchangelabs.com>
 <CD362232858B49599B58EE935EB711B4@VlackTK121647>
Message-ID: <008001d517ef$a86806b0$f9381410$@net>

I think you can have those problems with any brand. I replaced the tires on
my daily driver and they couldn't get the vibration out, tried to tell me I
was the wheels and I should go back to Toyota, they had a good laugh. Made
them replace the tires, BF Goodrich if I remember correctly, and the problem
went away.  

Bob

 

From: Jerry Van Vlack [mailto:jerryvv at roadrunner.com] 
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2019 1:21 PM
To: Reihing, Randall S.; Wbeech at flash.net; Kinderlehrer
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Nexen tires for a TR3A

 

Moral of the story is don't buy Michelin tires. Actually just my personal
opinion, I've had them on new cars and could not wait until I could replace
them. I think they are overrated. 

 

From: Reihing, Randall S. 

Sent: Friday, May 31, 2019 3:46 PM

To: Wbeech at flash.net ; Kinderlehrer 

Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net 

Subject: Re: [TR] Nexen tires for a TR3A

 

 

When recently buying a set of four Michelin Defender's for my truck, owned
since new and never wrecked or damaged, etc., there was a balancing issue
with the new Michelin Defender's. The usual weights were not achieving the
vibration free use the prior, worn down but smooth driving BFG tires had
demonstrated. 

 

Tireman of Maumee, Ohio (zero affiliation on my part except as a customer),
where I buy tires, the salesman said the wheel may be the culprit for my
vibration complaint on the brand new Michelin Defender's that had just been
installed and had been balanced but were vibrating enough at normal
expressway speed limits of 55-65 mph, I could feel it in the steering wheel
and it was really annoying. 

 

I returned in less than 8 miles. The Tireman salesman said Tireman had a
balancing option referred to as "Force Balancing" wherein they don't use the
usual weight's. For "Force Balancing" they use a different machine and move
the tire around the rim a very small amount several times until they find
the perfect balancing location of tire to wheel. This worked for me and an
hour later the truck is now as vibration free and smooth driving as it was
when new. 

 

Randall Reihing

1959 TR3A

 

  _____  

From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of
Wbeech at flash.net <wbeech at flash.net>
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2019 2:56:51 PM
To: Kinderlehrer
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Nexen tires for a TR3A 

 

I have Vredesteins on the TR3, excellent handling.  Also, Firestone has this
size too, Coker may have this in their Michelin X tire, I know they have 155
but not sure about 165.  

As for rubbing with wider tires, someone else needs to comment, I have run
165 width on 6" minilites with great results, more rubber on the ground and
no rubbing.  

Just my thoughts,
Bill B
TS30800L

Sent from my DynaTAC 8000X

On May 31, 2019, at 12:58 PM, Kinderlehrer <kinderlehrer at comcast.net> wrote:

Anyone have any experience with the Nexen tire (SB802)? There are very few
tire stores around here that can still mount a tire on a wire wheel and the
only tire they seem to be able to get in a 165/80-15 is the Nexen. If I go
with a wider tire, will I have a problem with rubbing and will the steering
be even harder? 

Thanks,
Bob

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate:
https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html
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From wbeech at flash.net  Fri May 31 15:36:25 2019
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Fri, 31 May 2019 16:36:25 -0500
Subject: [TR] Vacuum Leak
In-Reply-To: <1803963313.393364.1559333749969@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <9caba7dc27955d4c0578025ab5adf13c@mail.gmail.com>
 <45169D326FA442D893E46EA557139B64@RYPC>
 <3c7adb156b86225de273049cde412ac5@mail.gmail.com>
 <0FE483ED97B5459085043FB55F4DA6AB@RYPC> <005e01d517da$7f59f950$7e0debf0$@net>,
 <9BE1F86A-A821-4EAC-84A8-BF620BCBA115@flash.net>
 <DM6PR01MB500347EA365952D376E2787EEC190@DM6PR01MB5003.prod.exchangelabs.com>
 <1803963313.393364.1559333749969@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <001401d517f8$e6c7a6f0$b456f4d0$@flash.net>

Terry,

You should definitely feel the suck, remember the manifold is cross-connected so you would have to cover both openings at the same time.   Have you tried shooting a little starting fluid into the carbs to see if it will try to start that way?  I know this sounds dumb, but is the rotor on and seated correctly?(BTDT)

Keep chasing you will find it.

 

All the best,

Bill

 

From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TERRY SMITH
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2019 3:16 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Vacuum Leak

 

Randall was right.  I did have multiple problems.  Closer inspection of the ground in the distributor plate showed it was connected and tested fine with an ohms check, but in truth was hanging on by just a few threads.  Fabricated another and now spark is exceptional out of the wire.  Don't ask me how I know that but if you'd like a recommendation of the type screwdriver to test the wire to ground, I can tell you which kind NOT to use.  

 

So...the 3 has spark to the plugs and has fuel to the carbs.  Engine cranks but won't catch.  Rechecked float specs and they're good.  Reset richness to 12 flat start-up specs.  So good.  Ran a timing light to see if it had jumped time, tested good.  

 

I'm now suspecting a severe enough vacuum leak to keep the gas from being sucked into the chambers.  Checked valve lash, no issues.  Compression test shows 90 plus in all cylinders.  I can't see the intake manifold gasket on the bottom, but that's where it would be...if it is.  

 

Question:  with the carbs off and using the solenoid to crank the engine, how much should one feel suction against ones hand at the ports of the intake manifold?  I'm barely feeling any if at all.  Certainly not enough to draw gas in.  

 

Thanks, everyone, for your patience!

 

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A  TS 58667

New Hampshire

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From wbeech at flash.net  Fri May 31 15:36:25 2019
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Fri, 31 May 2019 16:36:25 -0500
Subject: [TR] Nexen tires for a TR3A
In-Reply-To: <007301d517ee$8e0c1730$aa244590$@net>
References: <9caba7dc27955d4c0578025ab5adf13c@mail.gmail.com>
 <45169D326FA442D893E46EA557139B64@RYPC>
 <3c7adb156b86225de273049cde412ac5@mail.gmail.com>
 <0FE483ED97B5459085043FB55F4DA6AB@RYPC> <005e01d517da$7f59f950$7e0debf0$@net>
 <9BE1F86A-A821-4EAC-84A8-BF620BCBA115@flash.net>
 <007301d517ee$8e0c1730$aa244590$@net>
Message-ID: <001901d517f8$e6fac4e0$b4f04ea0$@flash.net>

FWIW, I'm running Nexen tires on my F-150 pickup, they are just fine.
Bill

-----Original Message-----
From: Kinderlehrer [mailto:kinderlehrer at comcast.net] 
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2019 3:22 PM
To: 'Wbeech at flash.net' <wbeech at flash.net>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] Nexen tires for a TR3A

Thanks. I was offered other brands, like American Tire and BF Goodrich, but at more than twice the price. These are $80/tire, which is really inexpensive - if it's a decent tire. I've seen the Vredesteins on Coker for $120, but I  prefer to buy the tires from the installer.

Bob 

-----Original Message-----
From: Wbeech at flash.net [mailto:wbeech at flash.net] 
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2019 11:57 AM
To: Kinderlehrer
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Nexen tires for a TR3A

I have Vredesteins on the TR3, excellent handling.  Also, Firestone has this size too, Coker may have this in their Michelin X tire, I know they have 155 but not sure about 165.  

As for rubbing with wider tires, someone else needs to comment, I have run 165 width on 6? minilites with great results, more rubber on the ground and no rubbing.  

Just my thoughts,
Bill B
TS30800L

Sent from my DynaTAC 8000X

On May 31, 2019, at 12:58 PM, Kinderlehrer <kinderlehrer at comcast.net> wrote:

Anyone have any experience with the Nexen tire (SB802)? There are very few tire stores around here that can still mount a tire on a wire wheel and the only tire they seem to be able to get in a 165/80-15 is the Nexen. If I go with a wider tire, will I have a problem with rubbing and will the steering be even harder? 

Thanks,
Bob

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From mark at bradakis.com  Fri May 31 15:37:25 2019
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Fri, 31 May 2019 15:37:25 -0600
Subject: [TR] More on tires. And time. And entropy. And inertia.
Message-ID: <6018e823-5669-bf23-6018-8c24a66ada78@bradakis.com>

The thread on TR3 tires got me thinking.? A fire was lit under my lazy 
ass, and I am motivated to get back on the track, and the road.? Sitting 
in the garage is a squaretail Spit that was a driver many years ago.? 
Needed clutch work, which actually got done.? What didn't get done is 
bolting the gearbox back in, etc. So part of the new plan involves 
getting it back together and running again.? The ultimate goal is to get 
the Killer Spitfire back on track and have me drive it in a Kastner Cup 
race.? More on that later.? Well, more on that as time goes along I plan 
to share my progress and shamelessly seek encouragement and support from 
whomever.? The website http://teamfatracing.com should chronicle my 
progress, but at the moment it is a snapshot of The Fat Chance Garage 
page from 15 or so years ago.

Anyway, what are some currently available, decent tires in 185/60-13?

mjb.


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From Randall.Reihing at utoledo.edu  Fri May 31 15:37:46 2019
From: Randall.Reihing at utoledo.edu (Reihing, Randall S.)
Date: Fri, 31 May 2019 21:37:46 +0000
Subject: [TR] Nexen tires for a TR3A
In-Reply-To: <CD362232858B49599B58EE935EB711B4@VlackTK121647>
References: <9caba7dc27955d4c0578025ab5adf13c@mail.gmail.com>
 <45169D326FA442D893E46EA557139B64@RYPC>
 <3c7adb156b86225de273049cde412ac5@mail.gmail.com>
 <0FE483ED97B5459085043FB55F4DA6AB@RYPC>
 <005e01d517da$7f59f950$7e0debf0$@net>,
 <9BE1F86A-A821-4EAC-84A8-BF620BCBA115@flash.net>
 <DM6PR01MB500347EA365952D376E2787EEC190@DM6PR01MB5003.prod.exchangelabs.com>,
 <CD362232858B49599B58EE935EB711B4@VlackTK121647>
Message-ID: <DM6PR01MB500372D0B1CDB6B84B1A371FEC190@DM6PR01MB5003.prod.exchangelabs.com>

I don't disagree. I thought it was interesting how moving the tire around the rim, as opposed to those clamp on lead weights, resolved the vibration issue perfectly.


Sincerely,

Randall Reihing

1959 TR3A


________________________________
From: Jerry Van Vlack <jerryvv at roadrunner.com>
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2019 4:20:37 PM
To: Reihing, Randall S.; Wbeech at flash.net; Kinderlehrer
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Nexen tires for a TR3A

Moral of the story is don?t buy Michelin tires. Actually just my personal opinion, I?ve had them on new cars and could not wait until I could replace them. I think they are overrated.

From: Reihing, Randall S.
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2019 3:46 PM
To: Wbeech at flash.net ; Kinderlehrer
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Nexen tires for a TR3A




When recently buying a set of four Michelin Defender's for my truck, owned since new and never wrecked or damaged, etc., there was a balancing issue with the new Michelin Defender's. The usual weights were not achieving the vibration free use the prior, worn down but smooth driving BFG tires had demonstrated.



Tireman of Maumee, Ohio (zero affiliation on my part except as a customer), where I buy tires, the salesman said the wheel may be the culprit for my vibration complaint on the brand new Michelin Defender's that had just been installed and had been balanced but were vibrating enough at normal expressway speed limits of 55-65 mph, I could feel it in the steering wheel and it was really annoying.



I returned in less than 8 miles. The Tireman salesman said Tireman had a balancing option referred to as "Force Balancing" wherein they don't use the usual weight's. For "Force Balancing" they use a different machine and move the tire around the rim a very small amount several times until they find the perfect balancing location of tire to wheel. This worked for me and an hour later the truck is now as vibration free and smooth driving as it was when new.



Randall Reihing

1959 TR3A



________________________________
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Wbeech at flash.net <wbeech at flash.net>
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2019 2:56:51 PM
To: Kinderlehrer
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Nexen tires for a TR3A

I have Vredesteins on the TR3, excellent handling.  Also, Firestone has this size too, Coker may have this in their Michelin X tire, I know they have 155 but not sure about 165.

As for rubbing with wider tires, someone else needs to comment, I have run 165 width on 6? minilites with great results, more rubber on the ground and no rubbing.

Just my thoughts,
Bill B
TS30800L

Sent from my DynaTAC 8000X

On May 31, 2019, at 12:58 PM, Kinderlehrer <kinderlehrer at comcast.net> wrote:

Anyone have any experience with the Nexen tire (SB802)? There are very few
tire stores around here that can still mount a tire on a wire wheel and the
only tire they seem to be able to get in a 165/80-15 is the Nexen. If I go
with a wider tire, will I have a problem with rubbing and will the steering
be even harder?

Thanks,
Bob

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri May 31 15:36:44 2019
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 31 May 2019 14:36:44 -0700
Subject: [TR] Vacuum Leak
In-Reply-To: <1803963313.393364.1559333749969@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <9caba7dc27955d4c0578025ab5adf13c@mail.gmail.com>
 <45169D326FA442D893E46EA557139B64@RYPC>
 <3c7adb156b86225de273049cde412ac5@mail.gmail.com>
 <0FE483ED97B5459085043FB55F4DA6AB@RYPC> <005e01d517da$7f59f950$7e0debf0$@net>,
 <9BE1F86A-A821-4EAC-84A8-BF620BCBA115@flash.net>
 <DM6PR01MB500347EA365952D376E2787EEC190@DM6PR01MB5003.prod.exchangelabs.com>
 <1803963313.393364.1559333749969@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <12B2E4DE5B0A43A288B5CD1F7941BB7E@RYPC>


> Question:  with the carbs off and using the solenoid to crank 
> the engine, how much should one feel suction against ones 
> hand at the ports of the intake manifold?  I'm barely feeling 
> any if at all.  Certainly not enough to draw gas in.  

With only one hand, almost nothing would be normal.  There is a balance tube
in the manifold, so you would have to block both openings at the same time.
If you only block one, it just draws from the other.

One trick that works well with recalcitrant engines is to squirt a dollop of
carb cleaner (eg Gumout) into each carb throat just before cranking the
engine.  Gumout is actually more flammable than "starting fluid" these days
(they don't sell real ether any more no matter what it says on the can).

If it starts and dies, then you're not getting fuel to the cylinders for
some reason.  Blocked jets, not enough choke, or whatever.  Lift the float
bowl caps off and check actual fuel level in the bowl; it's not un-heard of
for the float valves to stick closed (especially with the fuel we get here
in CA, which seems to dry to an extremely hard white substance instead of
the old brown gummy varnish).

If it won't fire at all, you're either not getting ignition, or it's at the
wrong time.  Clean or change the plugs, test for spark right at a plug
connector, double check that the valves are closed and the piston is near
the top when #1 tries to fire.  Note that it's possible to have fire at the
coil and not at the plugs (bad rotor).  It's also possible to have a spark
that will jump the gap with the plug out of the engine, but won't make it
under compression.  I've had a bad condenser do that to me several times
now, but a bad coil wire (or coil) can do it too.

It's easy for even new plugs to get fouled enough to not fire under
compression.  Just being wet with fuel (or oil) can do it.  Another trick
that sometimes works is to remove each plug in turn and hold it gently with
pliers while you heat the business end with a propane torch.  Keep heating
until there is no more yellow in the flame, or if you never see yellow, the
side electrode glows red.  Reinstall the plug and do the next one.  Don't
forget it's hot!

-- Randall


From aljlthomson at charter.net  Fri May 31 16:10:22 2019
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson)
Date: Fri, 31 May 2019 18:10:22 -0400
Subject: [TR] More on tires. And time. And entropy. And inertia.
In-Reply-To: <6018e823-5669-bf23-6018-8c24a66ada78@bradakis.com>
References: <6018e823-5669-bf23-6018-8c24a66ada78@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <006701d517fd$a4832300$ed896900$@charter.net>


At least there seems to be a clear path to the ice box!

Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2019 5:37 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] More on tires. And time. And entropy. And inertia.

The thread on TR3 tires got me thinking.  A fire was lit under my lazy ass, and I am motivated to get back on the track, and the road.  Sitting in the garage is a squaretail Spit that was a driver many years ago. Needed clutch work, which actually got done.  What didn't get done is bolting the gearbox back in, etc. So part of the new plan involves getting it back together and running again.  The ultimate goal is to get the Killer Spitfire back on track and have me drive it in a Kastner Cup race.  More on that later.  Well, more on that as time goes along I plan to share my progress and shamelessly seek encouragement and support from whomever.  The website http://teamfatracing.com should chronicle my progress, but at the moment it is a snapshot of The Fat Chance Garage page from 15 or so years ago.

Anyway, what are some currently available, decent tires in 185/60-13?

mjb.




From bk13 at earthlink.net  Fri May 31 17:36:17 2019
From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp)
Date: Fri, 31 May 2019 16:36:17 -0700
Subject: [TR] Nexen tires for a TR3A
In-Reply-To: <CD362232858B49599B58EE935EB711B4@VlackTK121647>
References: <9caba7dc27955d4c0578025ab5adf13c@mail.gmail.com>
 <45169D326FA442D893E46EA557139B64@RYPC>
 <3c7adb156b86225de273049cde412ac5@mail.gmail.com>
 <0FE483ED97B5459085043FB55F4DA6AB@RYPC> <005e01d517da$7f59f950$7e0debf0$@net>
 <9BE1F86A-A821-4EAC-84A8-BF620BCBA115@flash.net>
 <DM6PR01MB500347EA365952D376E2787EEC190@DM6PR01MB5003.prod.exchangelabs.com>
 <CD362232858B49599B58EE935EB711B4@VlackTK121647>
Message-ID: <3fa893d6-d694-6bd9-35e6-1dfa0b222186@earthlink.net>

I've installed Michelin tires on four different cars and been very 
happy.? I would not judge a brand based on the OEM version of the 
tires.? The manufactures care more about a comfortable ride and things 
that help mpg for their overall fleet economy ratings, so even tires 
with the same name can be different between the OEM and retail models.

Brian

On 5/31/2019 1:20 PM, Jerry Van Vlack wrote:
> Moral of the story is don?t buy Michelin tires. Actually just my 
> personal opinion, I?ve had them on new cars and could not wait until I 
> could replace them. I think they are overrated.
> *From:* Reihing, Randall S.
> *Sent:* Friday, May 31, 2019 3:46 PM
> *To:* Wbeech at flash.net ; Kinderlehrer
> *Cc:* triumphs at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [TR] Nexen tires for a TR3A
>
> When recently buying a set of four Michelin Defender's for my truck, 
> owned since new and never wrecked or damaged, etc., there was a 
> balancing issue with the new Michelin Defender's. The usual weights 
> were not achieving the vibration free use the prior, worn down but 
> smooth driving BFG tires had demonstrated.
>
> Tireman of Maumee, Ohio (zero affiliation on my part except as a 
> customer), where I buy tires,the salesman said the wheel may be the 
> culprit for my vibration complaint on the brand new Michelin 
> Defender's that had just been installed and had been balanced but were 
> vibrating enough at normal expressway speed limits of 55-65 mph, I 
> could feel it in the steering wheel and it was really annoying.
>
> I returned in less than 8 miles. The Tireman salesman said Tireman had 
> a balancing option referred to as "Force Balancing" wherein they don't 
> use the usual weight's. For "Force Balancing" they use a different 
> machine and move the tire around the rim a very small amount several 
> times until they find the perfect balancing location of tire to wheel. 
> This worked for me and an hour later the truck is now as vibration 
> free and smooth driving as it was when new.
>
> Randall Reihing
>
> 1959 TR3A
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of 
> Wbeech at flash.net <wbeech at flash.net>
> *Sent:* Friday, May 31, 2019 2:56:51 PM
> *To:* Kinderlehrer
> *Cc:* triumphs at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [TR] Nexen tires for a TR3A
> I have Vredesteins on the TR3, excellent handling.? Also, Firestone 
> has this size too, Coker may have this in their Michelin X tire, I 
> know they have 155 but not sure about 165.
>
> As for rubbing with wider tires, someone else needs to comment, I have 
> run 165 width on 6? minilites with great results, more rubber on the 
> ground and no rubbing.
>
> Just my thoughts,
> Bill B
> TS30800L
>
> Sent from my DynaTAC 8000X
>
> On May 31, 2019, at 12:58 PM, Kinderlehrer <kinderlehrer at comcast.net> 
> wrote:
>
> Anyone have any experience with the Nexen tire (SB802)? There are very few
> tire stores around here that can still mount a tire on a wire wheel 
> and the
> only tire they seem to be able to get in a 165/80-15 is the Nexen. If I go
> with a wider tire, will I have a problem with rubbing and will the 
> steering
> be even harder?
>
> Thanks,
> Bob
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
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