[TR] TR4 Won't Start

[TERRY SMITH]

Hi, Keith.  My first guess is a sticking needle in the float valve which could be caused by slight corrosion.  JonMac suggests a light sanding of the fins.  Whhile you're in there might as well double check the setting for the float lever despite it not likely to have changed.  You can use a 5/16ths wood dowel.


Terry

> On June 12, 2019 at 9:45 PM Keith Richard Stewart <keithstewart at bell.net> wrote:
> 
> 
>     When I took the TR4 (1962) out of winter storage, it started on the second turn of the key. I drove home fine, no problems. I cleaned up the car for a show last weekend. When I went to start, it was hard starting, did catch and ran rough for a few seconds before stalling. The starter is a hi-torque starter and had lots of “oomph”. The rough running was like it was on two cylinders or less. After several more attempts to get it started, including some starting fluid spray, I put the battery charger on to make sure the battery was charged fully. I attempted a start with the charger on the “start” setting with no luck. While looking over the engine compartment for a loose wire or bad connection, I noticed substantial oil leak around the filter adapter. The location was such that it appeared the seeping was between the oil filter head and the adapter.
> 
>      
> 
>     Although not associated with the non-start issue, I figured I would take care of the oil leak, thinking it was the seal between the adapter and the filter head. I drained the oil, removed the filter, installed a new filter and filled with oil. It did seem there was a bit of fuel odor from the oil. I did install a new fuel pump two years ago so I will check that later. The fuel pump was one of TRF’s “Made in Italy” pumps. The additional start attempts since then have not produced any oil seeping out.
> 
>      
> 
>     Back to the start problem.  The carbs are SU HS6, as on the TR4A. I removed the fuel line at the float bowl and gas pumped out during an attempted start. The ignition is a Pertronix. When I removed the rotor, it looked OK, but I had a spare in a tune up kit and a separate, red rotor, so I tried both with no luck. To make sure the battery was getting at least 10v to the Pertronix, I put in a new battery that I had. No luck. I removed plug #1, grounded it on the thermostat housing bolt and tried a start. I had a spark right away and almost immediately the car started up. Ran roughly – there were only three cylinders getting spark.
> 
>      
> 
>     I shut off the engine, replaced the spark plug, and tried to start. No luck. Very baffling. I also had spark on #2, #3, and #4. With #2 removed, car starts, Ditto with #3 and #4 removed. Once the plug is back in, the car will not start. Voltage at rest is 12.75v (have not charged it again after several start attempts over the past few days) and drops to 11v during starter engagement.
> 
>      
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>     I had a new coil on hand so I tried it as well. No luck. Connections from the coil to ignition switch and coil to Pertronix are clean and secure.
> 
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>     All plug leads and the distributor lead are clean and secure. Battery connections are clean and secure. Battery putting out 12-14v. Connections at the starter solenoid and the starter are clean and secure.
> 
>      
> 
>     I think that is everything I have tried to date. Any suggestions are most welcome.
> 
>      
> 
>      
> 
>     Keith Stewart
> 
>     keithstewart at bell.net
> 
>      
> 


 

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