[TR] TR3A Questions

[James Henningsen]

Randall:
You are always amazing.  It’s like getting g feedback from a Triumph service technician. 
Thank you.  
Jim

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 9, 2019, at 10:27 PM, Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
> 
> 
>> 1.  What are the disadvantages of NOT putting a thermostat in 
>> the engine in Florida?
> 
> For one thing, it makes it really tough to get the mixture adjusted
> properly.  Running too rich wastes fuel and may lead to more rapid engine
> wear.
> 
>> I found out that the prev owner did 
>> not put one in.  So I installed a new bellows type and it 
>> raises my normal operating temp from just under 185 at idle 
>> to about 200+.  I verified it is working in pot of hot water. 
>> Opens at 180.
> 
> Original type bellows thermostat should start to open around 160, not 180.
> (70C, 158F per workshop manual)  They open slow, full open isn't until 197F
> (again per the manual)
> 
>> Could also be the temp gauge but haven't 
>> verified.  
> 
> Sounds like the most likely culprit to me.  FWIW, while it doesn't get quite
> as hot here as FL, I run an ordinary wax pellet type thermostat, and have no
> overheating problems at all, even with outside temps over 110F.  (Somewhere
> around 115F, the driver overheats.)  I do have a few other improvements,
> though, including electric fan, no crank hole in the recored original
> radiator, and a coolant recovery bottle.
> 
>> My brakes drag a 
>> little and it isn't the rear drum adjust.  I had heard that 
>> the valve assembly can cause that outcome when faulty.
> 
> Actually, I believe it causes them to drag lightly even when it is working
> correctly.  I always found it annoying that the car wouldn't roll freely
> after I took my foot off the pedal.
> 
>> I also heard it is ok to remove it and just attach the brake 
>> line to the 5 way connector.  Any thoughts on doing this?
> 
> You'll probably need to replace the line, the stock line isn't long enough
> to reach the extra 2" or so.  I've also heard rumors that some 5-way
> connectors were not machined to accept a brake line from above (mine have
> been, but I've only owned earlier cars).  What I did instead was to remove
> the internals from the valve, and put the housing back in place.
> https://i.imgur.com/ISB0yMy.jpg
> 
> The downside of removing or disabling the valve (which is more accurately a
> residual pressure valve, not a simple restriction) is that you may get a low
> brake pedal after "spirited" driving.  It can be rather disconcerting if you
> are not expecting it!
> 
> But, at least in my experience, it doesn't go all the way to the floor. I
> can always get brakes by just pushing the pedal down farther.  And it comes
> up right away.  I've gotten into the habit of kind of testing the brakes
> after taking a hard curve, just to bring it back up.
> 
> A better solution is probably to fit the uprated spindles and spacers.
> Originally developed by "uncle jack" (IIRC), they are now available from
> TRF.
> http://trf.zeni.net/TR6-TR250GB/191.php
> 
> I've got a set on the shelf, just haven't found that particular round tuit
> yet.
> 
> -- Randall
>