[TR] Starting a dry engine advice sought

[Rye Livingston]

I’m not 100% on this so others can chime in and correct me. 

My understanding is when the cam rolls by and lifts the tappet it will also rotate it a little bit so it doesn’t continue to strike the same spot over and over and over. Too much zinc, too slippery, doesn’t rotate the tappet, wears the cam lobe prematurely.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 9, 2018, at 1:17 PM, Paul Dorsey <dorpaul1 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Don’t we have flat tappet engines? Why do they need to rotate?
> 
>> On Sun, Sep 9, 2018 at 2:58 PM Rye Livingston <ryel at mac.com> wrote:
>> FYI - if a little zinc is good, a lot is NOT better. Things get too slippery and the tappets don’t rotate on the cam lobes. I learned this the hard way and the machine shop informed me of the error of too much zinc.
>> 
>> So either Valvoline, Brad Penn or Kendall that have ZDDP, or half a bottle of Red Line break-in oil per instructions, is the way to go.
>> 
>> Rye
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> On Sep 9, 2018, at 7:24 AM, Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
>> 
>> >> Five or 10 years ago I didn't think there was much of an  
>> >> zinc ingredient in  Valvoline racing oil. Have things Change D?
>> > 
>> > There was a brief period where they reduced it slightly; but Valvoline
>> > Racing has always had ZDDP in it.  It's not entirely clear to me that 900
>> > PPM is worse than 1100 PPM as long as you change oil frequently; more just
>> > lets you run the oil longer before it is depleted.  But the consumer
>> > reaction was apparently enough to convince them to put it back up.
>> > 
>> > -- Randall
>> > 
>> > ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> > 
>> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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