[TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 11, Issue 176

Erkan Hassan erkanhassan at yahoo.com
Sun Jul 22 12:38:14 MDT 2018


Dismantle victory!

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So now

1. Does this look like it is lined up for TDC?  The scribe marked line up, the the punch mark appears in the camshaft project hole, but the punch on the camshaft seems out of place

2.  Does this look like 56 year old materials? Does the chain, sprocket, tensioner (all or some) need to be replaced??

Your advice is appreciated once I am at this point
Erkan
Sent from my iPad

> On Jul 20, 2018, at 2:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:
> 
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> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. Re: Stag accelerator cable attachment to the pedal.
>      (StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org)
>   2. Electric Fans: Something Different (George Haynes)
>   3. brake light switch (Bob Labuz)
>   4. Tr-Tr3-A (Lawrence Schwartz)
>   5. Re: brake light switch (Andrew Uprichard)
>   6. Re: [EXTERNAL] -  brake light switch (David Templeton)
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2018 14:17:05 -0600
> From: <StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org>
> To: "'Thomas Fansher'" <tfansher at comcast.net>, "'Andrew Uprichard'"
>    <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] Stag accelerator cable attachment to the pedal.
> Message-ID:
>    <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAOZERzOiCItOi8Nw123laD8ijAAAEAAAAPT7VHCUe3FJjQRsSxalIkMBAAAAAA==@freelanceconsulting.net>
>    
> Content-Type: text/plain;    charset="utf-8"
> 
> Tom,
> 
> The Throttle cable on the Stag is a lead ball on the pedal end of the cable, held in place with a slotted spring clip that wraps around the throttle pedal shaft.  
> Cheers!
> 
> Glenn Merrell  
> +1 (303) 817-8559 mobile
> aka StagByTriumph Garage (now on FaceBook)
> Remember, ?the BEST trophies are: Miles on the Odometer; Stone chips in the paint; and DEAD BUGS on the windscreen ? with the occasional smell of manure!?
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Thomas Fansher
> Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2018 6:26 AM
> To: Andrew Uprichard
> Subject: [TR] Stag accelerator cable attachment to the pedal.
> 
> I had the intake manifold gasket slip down and resulted on a major water leak.  So pulled the cars, and intake and replaced the gasket with the thickest one available from James Paddock.  In reattaching the throttle cable to the carbs, all went well until I tried the pedal and nothing happened at the carb end.  I?m assuming that the cable slipped off the pedal, but I can?t see the top of the pedal nor feel the cable or attachment.  The heater seems to be in the way....
> Any helpful ideas on how to proceed - I?m thinking a much smaller person with much better eyes and smaller hands ;>).   Actually, I was thinking about pulling the heater and a/c to have the right hand blower motor replaced - need more air flow through the unit.  
> As always, thanks in advance for your help
> Tom
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
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> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2018 20:16:38 -0400
> From: George Haynes <ghaynestr4 at aol.com>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] Electric Fans: Something Different
> Message-ID: <164b50baa4d-c94-15dd5 at webjas-vaa013.srv.aolmail.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Group, 
> 
> 
> Many years ago, when the machine shop was balancing my TR4A engine, the tech asked if I really needed the fan extension hub on the crankshaft.  Seems he would have to remove metal from the crankshaft to compensate if the extension hub was retained.  He asked if there was room for an electric puller fan if we took the hub and fan blade off.
> 
> 
> Sure, there's lots of room behind the radiator when the fan and hub are removed!  So no metal was removed from the crankshaft.
> 
> 
> The largest fan I could fit was 16" in diameter and draws just over 10 amps.  One cannot go small here, because now this is my engine's only cooling device.  Just in traffic, of course.  I replaced the dash lamp dimmer rheostat (just connected all the wires together, because the dash lights were never too bright) and installed a heater fan switch in its place,  The switch even has a little fan blade on the knob. This switch probably should operate a relay to operate the electric fan, but it's been working so far.
> 
> 
> Having already had trouble keeping the battery charged with the wimpy stock generator, I also installed a GM Delco 63-amp alternator.  OK, some fiddling was necessary to mount it, but it works great.  Probably been in the car 20+ years now.  And it's nice to know that all the FLAPS and Chevy dealers have this alternator on their shelves if I need one somewhere.
> 
> 
> Then I became concerned with what to do if the electric fan quits.  I drive my car a lot, and didn't want to be on the side of the road in East Nowhere with no way to cool the engine.  Decided a second fan could be installed - in front of the radiator.  BTW, a new aluminum radiator went in about then, too.  And one of Richard Good's lovely stainless ducts.  Now, if  one fan quits, I simply plug in the spare, and I'm off again.  All that business about fans blocking the air is nonsense!
> 
> 
> When the battery finally failed after 14 years, I gave no thought to the alternator contributing to long battery life. Then someone mentioned it here and, Voila!  it makes sense.  The powerful alternator helped keep the battery healthy for 14 years!
> 
> 
> And, while I'm on the subject of  reliability and roadside repairs, there is an electric fuel pump in the trunk. If the mechanical pump fails, I do a little plumbing to bypass the failed pump (to avoid the possibility of a sump full of gasoline) and keep driving with the electric pump.
> 
> 
> 
> Needless to say, this car has been modified for reliability - and it works!  Replacing the stock TR4A seats with Miata seats has make this car a delight to drive long distances to go along with its reliability.  
> 
> 
> George
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> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 3
> Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2018 09:27:05 -0400
> From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr at adelphia.net>
> To: Triumphs List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [TR] brake light switch
> Message-ID: <54dd6966-4a01-3bc8-4cb9-77718793aa19 at adelphia.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
> 
> Hello,
> 
> Looks like my brake light switch is toast.
> 
> Would like to know if it is possible to convert to the later TR4/4A 
> switch off the MC by making a bracket to hold the switch.
> 
> I dont want to get into the hydraulics unless I have to.
> 
> Car is a 63 TR4.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 4
> Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2018 12:03:52 -0400
> From: Lawrence Schwartz <l1j1s at aol.com>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] Tr-Tr3-A
> Message-ID: <A9D4DDA6-3322-4D1E-A046-AAA4732C5462 at aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain;    charset=us-ascii
> 
> 
> List, I noticed a very nice and interesting Tr3-A for sale on  the New York craigslist . Larry
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 5
> Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2018 12:14:20 -0400
> From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard at uprichard.net>
> To: "'Bob Labuz'" <yellowtr at adelphia.net>, "'Triumphs List'"
>    <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] brake light switch
> Message-ID: <000001d42044$b903dc90$2b0b95b0$@net>
> Content-Type: text/plain;    charset="us-ascii"
> 
> I would have thought you could simply swap the old one out with a new one
> without "getting into the hydraulics"  Given the switch has a head of fluid
> above it, I don't see any air getting into the system.
> 
> Andrew Uprichard
> Jackson, Michigan
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
> Labuz
> Sent: Friday, July 20, 2018 9:27 AM
> To: Triumphs List
> Subject: [TR] brake light switch
> 
> Hello,
> 
> Looks like my brake light switch is toast.
> 
> Would like to know if it is possible to convert to the later TR4/4A 
> switch off the MC by making a bracket to hold the switch.
> 
> I dont want to get into the hydraulics unless I have to.
> 
> Car is a 63 TR4.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 6
> Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2018 17:28:38 +0000
> From: David Templeton <davidt at opentext.com>
> To: Bob Labuz <yellowtr at adelphia.net>, Triumphs List
>    <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] [EXTERNAL] -  brake light switch
> Message-ID:
>    <BL0PR1501MB198654D4C9539B76BD116722B6510 at BL0PR1501MB1986.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
>    
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Bob, on my '3a I wired in a brake switch off the pedal in parallel to the hydraulic one. Made a small bracket that bolted right up and a chevy brake NC brake switch.  Comes on just after touching the brakes since it has about an inch of threads to allow adjustment 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Labuz
> Sent: Friday, July 20, 2018 9:27 AM
> To: Triumphs List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [EXTERNAL] - [TR] brake light switch
> 
> Hello,
> 
> Looks like my brake light switch is toast.
> 
> Would like to know if it is possible to convert to the later TR4/4A switch off the MC by making a bracket to hold the switch.
> 
> I dont want to get into the hydraulics unless I have to.
> 
> Car is a 63 TR4.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
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> End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 11, Issue 176
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