[TR] Question on Fuel pumps TR3-4

Doug Mathews mathews at uga.edu
Thu Feb 22 14:32:10 MST 2018


Thanks for all the input.

Given the age of the new ones I have (gosh knows how long ago I bought 
them). Woulld there be any markins on them that would tell me if they 
are AC or not. Says made in Canada. There is a stamping of "AC10") on them.

Just trying to figure out what I'm dealing with.

Thanks

Doug


On 2/22/2018 11:32 AM, Bill Babbitt wrote:
> This may be beating a dead horse, but....
> When you select the repo pump on the TRF site it says the original AC 
> pump is supplied.  Therefore, the repo in this case is not a repo at 
> all but the original AC pump.
> image2.png
> thanks,
> Bill
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Feb 22, 2018, at 8:27 AM, Andrew Uprichard 
> <auprichard at uprichard.net <mailto:auprichard at uprichard.net>> wrote:
>
>> I have restored a TR3 each year for the past 10 years or so and think 
>> I bought a Moss pump once.  I didn’t keep the car long enough to say 
>> if it lasted, but I have a lot of faith in Albert Runyan a tTRF when 
>> he says the quality is reflected in the price. Provided the lever is 
>> not worn, these pumps are easy to rebuild and the kit is not 
>> expensive, so this is the route I normally go.
>>
>> For the 2 cars I kept, I got a blanking plate and opted for a facet pump.
>>
>> Andrew Uprichard
>>
>> Jackson, Michigan
>>
>> *From:*Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf 
>> Of *Michael Burdick
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, February 21, 2018 10:01 PM
>> *To:* Triumph Mail List
>> *Subject:* Re: [TR] Question on Fuel pumps TR3-4
>>
>> The pump my dad had did not have a cast cam lever like those in your 
>> picture. If memory serves, it was several ~1/16” thick pieces layered 
>> together to make up the ~1/4” thick lever that was held in the body 
>> of the pump with a roll pin.  It did have a priming lever though.
>>
>> On Wed, Feb 21, 2018 at 7:03 PM Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com 
>> <mailto:don.hiscock at gmail.com>> wrote:
>>
>>     This exact thing can happen if the cam lever is inserted with the
>>     wrong end of the lever bearing on the cam lobe. Hard to imagine
>>     if the lever is inserted correctly.  Might be worth it to double
>>     check that the reinstalled pump has its lever the right way.  The
>>     long flat surface on the lever should bear against the cam.
>>
>>     Here's a worn lever on an original AC pump from being positioned
>>     wrong-side-against-the-cam.  Compare the tip wear to a standard
>>     lever, and see the bearing surface opposite that worn corner.
>>     Note:  I won't tell ya who did this, but they're suitably
>>     embarrassed (and it wasn't me) :)
>>
>>     https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-XQ7d3fM/0/f3e2e8a6/X3/i-XQ7d3fM-X3.jpg
>>
>>     On Wed, Feb 21, 2018 at 12:31 PM, Michael Burdick
>>     <burdickm at mindspring.com <mailto:burdickm at mindspring.com>> wrote:
>>
>>     My dad had a reproduction pump on his TR2 a few years ago, added
>>     after the engine was rebuilt under the assumption that newer is
>>     better.  One day not too many thousands of miles later, the car
>>     started, but would not stay running more than a few seconds.
>>     After some diagnosis, the pump was removed and the arm that rides
>>     on the camshaft was discovered to be worn down to the point where
>>     the lobe on the camshaft could no longer move the arm.  He dug
>>     the original pump out of a box in the basement, reinstalled it,
>>     and has been trouble free ever since (at least with respect to
>>     fuel pumps)*.  I'm not sure if Moss is selling that exact pump,
>>     but I think that the axiom "you get what you pay for" may be in
>>     play here.
>>
>>     Good luck with the sale,
>>
>>     Mike
>>
>>     * I don't want to think about where the metal missing from the
>>     pump arm ended up, but so far he hasn't had any issues...
>>
>>
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>
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