[TR] A Type OD

[David Massey]

It is also possible that there was still some air in the system and it took a few cycles to purge it out.

Good work and enjoy.

 

 

Dave Massey


 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: TERRY SMITH <terryrs at comcast.net>
To: Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>; triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, Apr 21, 2018 9:52 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] A Type OD



Hello, everyone.  Just finished testing the Overdrive on the TR3.  Made a couple mistakes--not bad--that others may benefit from.



First, topped off the OD oil level, started the car with it on blocks, shifted into second, and flipped the OD switch.  Solenoid actuated nicely, and dropped quickly down when I flipped the switch off.  So far, so good.


However, the OD did not appear to engage.  Tried this several times.  Nothing.  Disconnected the solenoid from the actuating lever, and ran the test manually engaging the actuating lever.  Nothing.  Pulled the valve/ball/spring assembly.  All checked good.  Reinstalled.  Tried it again manually.  Still nothing.



Came in the house utterly defeated.  At this point it could only be not having enough pressure to run the OD.  I was coming to grips with yanking the tranny and traveling to Connecticut to get it fixed.  



Then a thought.  I'd tried second gear.  Would 3rd or 4th be any different?  Couldn't see why, but nothing to lose, so I did a test in those gears, again manually moving the actuating lever.



It worked but slowly.  Hunh!.  I noticed the speedometer leap from about 19 mph to 26 or thereabouts.  Didn't really pay attention to exactly how much because the difference was pronounced enough to show engagement and that's all I cared about.  Dropped the lever back and it popped out of OD just like it should.  As I kept testing, the thing started reacting immediately in and out on demand.  Used the drill bit to determine if the recommended setting worked, and it did.  Shut everything down, adjusted the solenoid to the actuating lever at the drill bit setting, started it up and tested it with the electrical system.  Everything worked perfectly.  



But it had before. Once getting me all the way to Boscawen (1/2 hour) before kicking out of OD and not working.  So I left the car running with OD engaged in 4th for 40 minutes, flipping the switch on and off a couple of times, and lo...it's fixed.  



So first mistake:  It seems that the OD needs the oil to warm up a bit or time perhaps for the oil I added to get to the OD.  

Second mistake:  Testing in second gear.  The speedometer difference in OD to out-of-OD is relatively small and easy to miss when you're fiddling with the actuating lever and trying to avoid getting a sleeve caught in the spinning driveshaft.  3rd and 4th gears, very pronounced.  



I think Dave Massey was right, that the isolation switch (likely in 3rd or 4th, since I never use 2nd) was right at the marginal level where heating up caused it to switch off.  



Will now be finishing winter maintenance, and the real test will be running under a load.  Shouldn't make a difference, right?



Thank you everyone for your responses and suggestions,

Terry





On April 21, 2018 at 11:03 AM Randall wrote:

Next, the OD would work for about 20 minutes, then drop out. A few times
I could actually feel it chatter as it rapidly kicked in and out before
dropping out altogether. That made me think it was likely electrical. I
swapped out the solenoid, relay and the OD switch. No improvement as
intermittency remained.

Connect an (incandescent) test light from the output of the relay to ground.
If you can see the light dim or flash when the OD acts up, you know the
problem is electrical (and with the relay or the circuits leading to it).

If the light remains steady, then the problem has to be farther downstream.
Could still be electrical (solenoid or the wire to it), but possibly also
hydraulic/mechanical.
But here's the thing: when I've tested with all the circuits connected--
that is, the relay and switch, the snap isn't pronounced, but the solenoid
does kick in as it should.

That does seem suspicious. Having pressure in the OD does muffle it
somewhat, though.
I did this per the book, using the 3/16 drill bit, which assumes that
operating oil pressure is sufficient then.

It also assumes there is no wear in the cam & spindle, which is not always
the case. See the Buckeye Triumphs articles for an alternate method of
checking how far the valve ball actually moves. FWIW, I believe the motion
of the ball should be a minimum of 1/32" (.030"). I doubt that adjustment
is your problem, but it's a good check to make at least once, IMO. Once
you've established that the cam & spindle are not worn, you can go back to
using the 2/16" rod.
2) When I test the OD on blocks, do I need to increase engine speed beyond
idle to get a proper test.

It may take slightly longer to build pressure in the first place, but the OD
should work normally once the pressure comes up.
3) If the thing still tests sketchy, where can I get an oil pressure gauge
that will screw into the operating valve so I can really know what's going
on?

I believe Jay Holekamp still sells them http://www.geocities.ws/jholekamp/

Or it's not too hard to build your own, starting with a replacement plug
(506117 @ TRF). Drill the end, braze a length of tubing into it, make a
(liquid filled) pressure gauge to the tube.
4) Do I remember correctly that after turning off the OD with the car
stationary, it takes longer than when it's actually on the road?

Should be pretty much the same. Maybe just slightly longer because the oil
will be cool and thicker; which in turn depends on what oil you are using.

-- Randall
 

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