[TR] Fuel

[ED]

I live in South Florida and have been using 100 octane Low Lead Aviation fuel in my TR6, the fuel is readily available and is generally used in Airboats.  I have also used Rec-90 non ethanol as a 50/50 blend with the Aviation fuel.  To say the car likes the gas is an understatement, I have had no problem with pre or post ignition, or over heating.  A nice gray exhaust color on the tail pipes.


________________________________
From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com>
Sent: Friday, July 28, 2017 9:47 AM
To: Triumphs
Cc: Bob Leaver
Subject: Re: [TR] Fuel

I find I can use regular in my TR4 if it is Shell or Chevron - but gas from the cheap places (like Costco) has to be the premium selection or I get pinging.

I never had a no-lead issue until I did a steady 80 mph drive from CA to AZ - I think that was what pushed it over the edge as upon getting home I was unable to adjust one of the exhaust valves, just too much recession.

After that I got hardened seats installed.  But, IMO, no harm in waiting until the problem arises before taking that step (unless you have the head off for other reasons).

Geo

On Thu, Jul 27, 2017 at 6:57 AM, Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com<mailto:tr3driver at ca.rr.com>> wrote:
As Jonmac said, the rating methods are different. If your engine is stock, the 87 should do fine. If you do find that it pings under some circumstances, back off the timing a bit.

My suggestion on the lead additive is to wait and see if you have a problem. Set the valves, drive 1000 miles or so and check them again. If the exhausts have closed up, you may need the additive. But in most cases, it is not needed.

FWIW, BMIHT did a test some years back that showed most lead additives are useless. Redline was the only brand that they found worked, and is also available in the US. I bought a case on Amazon. It certainly helped a lot (I had severe recession on my TR3), but you have to be religious about getting it in every single tanks. I missed a few, which I think is why my exhaust valves quit sealing. Swapped in a different head, and it has no problem at all.

The red wires should be for taillights, the fuse is hot only when the headlight switch is on. Green should be for everything controlled by the ignition, like turn signals, heater and so on. These cars don't have very many fuses, a lot of things share fuses and others are simply unprotected.
-- Randall

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