[TR] TYR3 Overdrive maintenance

Wbeech@flash.net wbeech at flash.net
Mon May 2 08:57:54 MDT 2016


I have a couple of those, 6-8" I believe, might try that before the pipe wrench.  Thx

Sent from my VIC-64

On May 2, 2016, at 8:10 AM, Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com> wrote:

Perhaps not the common tool it once was but the old 'Monkey Wrench' is what I use for that nut:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monkey_wrench

The on e I have is labeled 'Ford' - probably out of an old Model A tool kit.  File image:



Geo

> On Sun, May 1, 2016 at 7:08 PM, Wbeech at flash.net <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:
> I don't have a notched plug, so I shouldn't need that scary socket.   I tried a 32mm socket, too big, and a 30mm socket, too small.  So I'll see if I can find goldilocks somewhere tomorrow.   Hate put a pipe wrench on it, last option.
> 
> Bill
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my VIC-64
> 
> On Apr 30, 2016, at 10:18 AM, Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> > 1. Have learned that the transmission and O/D use the same
> > oil reservoir so is the Red Line MT90 that I really love for
> > the trans is OK in the O/D unit?
> 
> MT-90 works fine for me.  I even contacted Redline tech support and that's what they recommended.
> 
> > 2. I have drained the trans from the normal plug, do I drain
> > the O/D from that big brass plug?
> 
> Yes.  There is a screen inside, and perhaps some magnets, that should be cleaned as well.  On earlier units, you remove a small
> screw with a flat washer and spacer, to get the screen out.  On later units it just pulls out (or falls out from it's own weight if
> things are pretty clean).
> 
> > 3. If #2 is yes, Do I have to be careful of anything that may
> > come out, i.e. springs or seals, when I remove the plug?
> 
> There's a big fiber washer that seals the plug.  Not usually a problem, but check that it is not damaged before you reuse it.  I had
> one split and cause a leak that was hard to find.  Wouldn't hurt to have a spare on hand (P/N 500641).
> 
> Main thing to be careful of, IMO, is the plug itself.  Brass is fairly soft, and it's easy to distort the plug, especially if you
> have the later one with the notches and try to use a drift in one notch to turn it.  Here's a photo of the two tools I've made to
> turn the later type:
> http://s258.photobucket.com/user/TR3driver/media/Tools/DSCF0007_lighter.jpg.html
> 
> The one in the background is just a heavy iron bar (sold at Home Depot as a stake for concrete forms) that was drilled and tapped
> for a couple of bolts, then the bolts were filed to suit the plug notches.  It worked OK, but a bit hard to get positioned on the
> car.
> 
> The big socket with notches milled into it to form the teeth worked better, but I wish I had made it shorter so it would have less
> of a tendency to twist.  I forget the size offhand, but the socket was on eBay, used to adjust wheel bearing nuts on a truck axle.
> 
> For the earlier type, I just found a heavy (impact) 6 point socket to fit, and filed down the end so it grabbed as much of the hex
> as possible.  Seems like maybe it was a 35mm socket (sold for CV joints on FWD cars), but I'm not certain of the size offhand.
> 
> -- Randall
> 
> 
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