[TR] TR3A Leaf Spring front pin/bolt

Michael Marr mmarr at albiontechnical.com
Tue Sep 29 15:14:11 MDT 2015


It has been a while since I changed a TR3a spring, but I believe that you will find that the tube in which the pin fits is what is welded to the frame. The pin has a head that is the same diameter as the OD of the tube, so at first glance it looks like the pin is welded, whereas, in fact, it is just the tube that is welded. That's my recollection, at least.


Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 29, 2015, at 14:58, Art McEwen <amcewen2 at cogeco.ca<mailto:amcewen2 at cogeco.ca>> wrote:

What happens if somebody has welded the old pin in place?


On Sep 18, 2015, at 12:17 PM, Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com<mailto:TR3driver at ca.rr.com>> wrote:

My method:

Hardened all-thread, hardened nuts, extra thick hardened flat washers (aka setup washers) all from MMC. (ISTR the thread is 5/16 NF,
but double-check that)

Soak the pin in PBB (or your choice of penetrating oil) for several weeks beforehand.

Use a bottoming tap to clean out the threads in the head.

Find a suitable socket that will just fit over the head of the pin (and the little tab on the frame).  Cut a piece of all-thread
about 4" long, and use double nuts to lightly torque it into the head of the pin.  Remove the nuts, lube the threads with the best
lube you've got, then use the setup washer and one nut to pull the pin out as far as the socket will allow.  Took a bunch of torque
(I used an extra-long box end wrench and grabbed the car to pull against) but the pin moved before anything broke.  Add a suitable
spacer and pull some more.  Lather, rinse, repeat until the pin falls out.  I replaced the nut & all-thread once or twice, as they
were looking worn.

Or; take the body off and commence pounding with a BFH.  I've always succeeded with the first method but I'm not certain it's
actually easier than taking the body off <g>

If you grease the pin up good with copper-based anti-seize before reinstallation, it will pop right out next time.

-- Randall


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