[TR] wheel studs - TR3

Andrew Uprichard auprichard at uprichard.net
Tue May 26 06:50:58 MDT 2015


That was the original thought - to add to the thread :-)

Thanks for the detailed advice.

Andrew

-----Original Message-----
From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dixie4
Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2015 5:01 AM
To: Randall; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] wheel studs - TR3

This not intended as mail to Randal just adding to the thread.

If you need longer studs and they are not available from the suppliers then
you will have to make some your self.

In the first instance do some research regarding thread size and grade of
steel. Secondly, buy sufficient steel bar of the correct diameter and, if
you do not have one already a cheap die stock and a top quality die. Believe
me a cheap quality die and you will have an almighty f***  up!.
The only tool extras would be the use of a pillar drill with a good machine
vice with vertical slots in the jaws, a square and a bench vice.
The wheel or wire wheel adapter when fitted to the car should be mounted on
a thread free part of the stud.
So this means 32 thread starts hence the square, pillar drill and vices to
ensure squareness. The pillar drill you also use for putting an angle  say
45 deg on the ends of each stud to help the start of the thread. A file is
handy for this with the stud mounted in a  rotating chuck.
It is pretty obvious that the vices and square are for accurate vertical
mounting of the steel. But my tip of the day is when mounting the die in
it's holder mount it the wrong way around so that back side of the die
without the taper is to the outside facing up using the die holder upside
down.
The drill chuck should have the jaws withdrawn. With the drill unplugged use
the face side of the chuck, adding a very slight amount of pressure to
square up the die, a squirt of engine oil and start the thread. A two or
three turns on each end of each stud should do it and finish them at the
bench to the required lengths with the die stock and die set up in it's
conventional position. Don't forget that a good die stock has three screws
the first cut is with the centre one wound in tight by hand and the outer
two wound in just enough to hold the die. The second cut vice versa or to
your own preference.
Next is to fit to the front hubs, sadly removed from the car for peening
purposes. In my view some Loctite would be a good idea on the hub threads at
the same time. At the rear, the same, with the driveshaft's removed of
course, quite easy with fully floating hubs.
Some of the above may be like telling your father how to make children but
worth mentioning.
I have done this many times in the past when fitting alternative wheels to
my rally cars and it has always proved successful.
You also have the satisfaction that you have done it for yourself and not
taken the easy option of buying off the shelf.

I hope it helps the original Lister and anyone else contemplating this
process.

Adrian 1966 TR4A CT64306 O
Wales UK.


----- Original Message -----
From: "Randall" <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2015 5:20 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] wheel studs - TR3


>> Not the same. TR3 studs thread into the flange from the front
>> and are peened at the back to hold them in place.
>> At least that is what I recall, haven't worked on one for a while.
>
> Your memory is good.  Also applies to TR4.
>
> It used to be that you could buy aftermarket studs that were threaded all 
> the way, and thread them in from the back; but I couldn't
> find any the last time I looked.
>
> And when I tried to install knurled studs in a TR3A hub many decades ago, 
> the hub was so hard that it just sheared the knurl off the
> studs and left them loose.  Might have worked better if I had tapered the 
> hole, but I was 1000 miles from home and lucky to even
> come up with a drill & bit.
>
> -- Randall
>
>
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