[TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 8, Issue 224

[Dave]

Remember, the horns draw a LOT of current.  Just because your meter shows continuity when pushed doesn't mean the resistance is low enough to work the horns.  Measure voltage on the N/B when the horn pushed is actuated.  Also, do the horns work if you jump the N/B wire direct to a good ground instead of through the horn push?  Most cars - even those with fairly simple, basic wiring like the TR6 -  use a relay to work the horns.  You may need on here.

 

 

Dave Massey


 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Keith Stewart <keithstewart at bell.net>
To: triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Aug 28, 2015 2:33 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 8, Issue 224


 
  
   
On Aug 28, 2015, at 2:00 PM, Keith Stewartt wrote:   
   
   
    I have power at the N/G bullets and connectors. When the N/G wires are attached to the horn connectors, I get power at the N/B wires. When the horn button is pressed, all wired up this way, I very low “hmph” or “bump” is heard. If I remove a N/B from a horn and touch it to ground, the horn sounds as it should. If I remove the other N/B and touch it to ground, again the horn sounds as it should. I am guessing the horn button ground is not doing its job. Now, to trace where that ground connection is located. Does that logic make sense?   
  
 
… and if the horn is button is pushed, I have continuity to ground. The N/B from the horn button shows no power (as it should). I disconnected the N/B on the R side and connected the N/B from the horn button straight to the L side. Left side now blows as normal. It would seem that the ground provided by the N/B is not getting across to the R side. I guess one horn is better than no horns :-) 
 
  
   
    
     
Keith Stewart    
    
     keithstewart at bell.net    
    
     
    
   
   
  
  
   
  
 





 
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