[TR] Blown Gasket TR4 part III

[Lee&John Howard]

Man, I so don't want to do that. But I will.
I'll drop the pan and disconnect just the forward two pistons and push the
liners with pistons up through the block. Then replace the figure 8 gasket
and rebuild.
Does that sound OK?
John


On Thu, May 29, 2014 at 6:40 PM, Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com> wrote:

> Always use something to clamp the liners in place when the head is off
> before turning over the engine.  Once you break the lower seal on the
> liner, it's really best to pull the liner and clean up the figure 8 gasket
> surfaces and replace those gaskets.  I know that's not what you want to
> hear, but that can certainly leak prodigious amounts of water into the oil.
>
> I use 1/2" drive sockets stacked up on the head studs with enough washers
> I can put a head nut on to hold in place.
>
> Tony Drews
>
>
> At 03:24 PM 5/29/2014, Lee&John Howard wrote:
>
>> I got back to the car yesterday and found that liner #1 protruded far
>> beyond spec at .010. I assembled a few tubes and washers to simulate the
>> factory liner hold down tool and managed to press the liner down to .005,
>> just at spec.  So, this is what probably caused the blow-out, although I
>> wonder if simply turning the crank with the head off might have caused the
>> liner to lift.
>>
>> Whatever ( as the grandkids say ad nauseum) - I'm going with the too-high
>> liner as the cause, and will use a new and thicker gasket from British
>> Parts Northwest. Plus new studs - I'm springing for the ARP's.
>>
>> As for the exhaust manifold, I'm cutting off the headers ( behind the
>> collection point) and having its face trued up. Same with the manifold
>> face
>> on the head - flattened and new matched studs.  Standard heavy duty
>> gaskets
>> from Moss.
>>
>> Should be back on the road in a week! Yeah, right.
>>
>> Thanks again
>>
>> John Howard
>>
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