[TR] pinion flange torque

[Geo Hahn]

When I did mine I marked (and photographed) the starting position of the
nut and then counted the turns to remove.  This enabled me to get it back
to the same position upon reassembly.  Seemed like a good double-check to
the torque spec.

This assumes all you are doing is replacing the seal.

Geo


On Sun, May 4, 2014 at 8:50 AM, Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

> > Just seems so extreme. I can't see from the drawings, but
> > does't the flange torque against the front pinon bearing?
>
> Not against the bearing itself, but against the inner race of the bearing.
>  There is a fairly large amount of force on that shaft &
> bearings, and it is essential that the gear on the end of the shaft be
> held accurately in position relative to the ring gear it
> drives.  So there is a precision spacer (and those shims I mentioned
> before) that fit between the inner races of both bearings on
> the shaft.  When you reef down on the nut, it clamps the entire stack of
> flange, input bearing inner race, shims, spacer and the
> pinion bearing inner race against the pinion gear.  In this case, there is
> some force applied to the bearings (the preload I
> mentioned before), but that force is set by the thickness of the shims.
>  However, if the shims were installed a little thicker, you
> could actually have some clearance in the bearings even with the 100 ftlb
> torque.
>
> BTW, the range of torque is so you can pull to the bottom value, then
> tighten some more as necessary to line up the holes in the nut
> & shaft.  Don't forget there are two holes in the shaft, so it can't take
> more than 1/12 turn to line them up.  In the very rare
> case where the holes don't line up within the torque range, you may need
> to sand or file a bit off the back of the nut and try
> again.
>
> Randall
>
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