From mark at bradakis.com  Wed May  1 21:22:31 2013
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 01 May 2013 21:22:31 -0600
Subject: [TR] Well, shucks.
Message-ID: <5181DBF7.9050809@bradakis.com>

Too bad my credit score is in the toilet since I lost my job at the U.

I was sitting here in my office before dinner and Karen comes down to
give me a message.  Some fellow stopped by and told her about a car
that may be coming up for sale.  Not just any car, the guy was the one
who purchased The White Car from me some time ago.  He's trimming
down his collection, wondered if I wanted to buy it back.

I would *LOVE* to do so!

He was on his bicycle, already late for dinner so he just gave the message
to Karen and rode off.  I'll be in touch with him soon to get more details.

mjb.

ps:  See a pic of it at
http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=12&p=15#p15

From davidt at opentext.com  Wed May  1 21:30:52 2013
From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton)
Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 03:30:52 +0000
Subject: [TR] size matters :-)
Message-ID: <BB85810C03ABE146834E31BD2120C86E72E90B22@otwlxg21.opentext.net>

Evening boys & girls :)

I am about to gain a 12x30ft storage unit .  The question is, can I fit a '74
Spitfire and a '59 TR3a in there.  I am thinking if I can it will be tight but
I would like the collective intelligence

Thanks as always
David
Cars I wanna drive :)

From mark at bradakis.com  Wed May  1 21:42:58 2013
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 01 May 2013 21:42:58 -0600
Subject: [TR] size matters :-)
In-Reply-To: <BB85810C03ABE146834E31BD2120C86E72E90B22@otwlxg21.opentext.net>
References: <BB85810C03ABE146834E31BD2120C86E72E90B22@otwlxg21.opentext.net>
Message-ID: <5181E0C2.6060608@bradakis.com>

David Templeton wrote:
> Evening boys & girls :)
>
> I am about to gain a 12x30ft storage unit .  The question is, can I fit a '74
> Spitfire and a '59 TR3a in there.
No problem.  The cars aren't very  wide, I've had them side by side in a 
10' wide
unit.

mjb.

From davidt at opentext.com  Wed May  1 21:53:57 2013
From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton)
Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 03:53:57 +0000
Subject: [TR] size matters :-)
In-Reply-To: <5181E0C2.6060608@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <BB85810C03ABE146834E31BD2120C86E72E90B70@otwlxg21.opentext.net>

Woohoo!!!! :-). Happy camper in Southern Ontario

David


Sent from my blackberry at 20 thumbs a minute.

----- Original Message -----
From: Mark J Bradakis [mailto:mark at bradakis.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 01, 2013 11:42 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] size matters :-)

David Templeton wrote:
> Evening boys & girls :)
>
> I am about to gain a 12x30ft storage unit .  The question is, can I fit a
'74
> Spitfire and a '59 TR3a in there.
No problem.  The cars aren't very  wide, I've had them side by side in a
10' wide
unit.

mjb.

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From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Wed May  1 22:02:21 2013
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 00:02:21 -0400
Subject: [TR] size matters :-)
In-Reply-To: <5181E0C2.6060608@bradakis.com>
References: <BB85810C03ABE146834E31BD2120C86E72E90B22@otwlxg21.opentext.net>
	<5181E0C2.6060608@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <CANhzkeMgeCeSJ3a=_5JUoiEajamzQtLiNQX=w-z94cRAqLgryg@mail.gmail.com>

+1 to what Mark said. I had a 10x20 portable garage with a tr6, a tr4 and
1/2 of another tr6.  and room for 2 engines, 12 wheels, an electric
wheelchair, a hard top for the 4, and who knows what else found it's way in
there.


On Wed, May 1, 2013 at 11:42 PM, Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com> wrote:

> David Templeton wrote:
>
>> Evening boys & girls :)
>>
>> I am about to gain a 12x30ft storage unit .  The question is, can I fit a
>> '74
>> Spitfire and a '59 TR3a in there.
>>
> No problem.  The cars aren't very  wide, I've had them side by side in a
> 10' wide
> unit.
>
> mjb.
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> options/triumphs/ccsimonsen@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ccsimonsen at gmail.com>

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu May  2 15:42:40 2013
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 2 May 2013 21:42:40 +0000
Subject: [TR] size matters :-)
In-Reply-To: <5181E0C2.6060608@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <20130502214240.WNDLB.1272.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>

> > I am about to gain a 12x30ft storage unit .  The question is, can I fit a '74
> > Spitfire and a '59 TR3a in there.

> No problem.  The cars aren't very  wide, I've had them side by side in a 
> 10' wide unit.

They'll also fit nose-to-tail in 30'.  You could have two of each!

Randall

From davidt at opentext.com  Thu May  2 21:08:21 2013
From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2013 03:08:21 +0000
Subject: [TR] size matters :-)
In-Reply-To: <20130502214240.WNDLB.1272.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>
References: <5181E0C2.6060608@bradakis.com>
	<20130502214240.WNDLB.1272.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>
Message-ID: <BB85810C03ABE146834E31BD2120C86E72EA1017@otwlxg20.opentext.net>

I told swmbo and got a head shake :-)

David

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Thursday, May 02, 2013 5:43 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] size matters :-)

> > I am about to gain a 12x30ft storage unit .  The question is, can I
> > fit a '74 Spitfire and a '59 TR3a in there.

> No problem.  The cars aren't very  wide, I've had them side by side in
> a 10' wide unit.

They'll also fit nose-to-tail in 30'.  You could have two of each!

Randall

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From rbtr3a at cox.net  Fri May  3 08:01:06 2013
From: rbtr3a at cox.net (Ronnie Babbitt)
Date: Fri, 03 May 2013 10:01:06 -0400
Subject: [TR] Test
Message-ID: <1axymdvq0ec4sgq164xgctb6.1367589666788@email.android.com>

Test

From wbeech at flash.net  Fri May  3 08:11:35 2013
From: wbeech at flash.net (WBEECH)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2013 09:11:35 -0500
Subject: [TR] Test
In-Reply-To: <1axymdvq0ec4sgq164xgctb6.1367589666788@email.android.com>
References: <1axymdvq0ec4sgq164xgctb6.1367589666788@email.android.com>
Message-ID: <1E4AEDF1-3028-4384-9D1D-C4585111B177@flash.net>

Got it here.

Sent from my iPhone

On May 3, 2013, at 9:01 AM, Ronnie Babbitt <rbtr3a at cox.net> wrote:

> Test
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Fri May  3 08:58:21 2013
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2013 07:58:21 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Test
In-Reply-To: <1axymdvq0ec4sgq164xgctb6.1367589666788@email.android.com>
References: <1axymdvq0ec4sgq164xgctb6.1367589666788@email.android.com>
Message-ID: <1367593101.32140.YahooMailNeo@web120003.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

42


From: Ronnie Babbitt <rbtr3a at cox.net>
To: triumphs2 TRlist <triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Friday, May 3, 2013 7:01 AM
Subject: [TR] Test


Test

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From aljlthomson at charter.net  Fri May  3 09:14:29 2013
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex&Janet Thomson)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2013 11:14:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] Test
In-Reply-To: <1axymdvq0ec4sgq164xgctb6.1367589666788@email.android.com>
References: <1axymdvq0ec4sgq164xgctb6.1367589666788@email.android.com>
Message-ID: <001b01ce4810$e85479d0$b8fd6d70$@charter.net>

Got it.

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ronnie Babbitt
Sent: Friday, May 03, 2013 10:01 AM
To: triumphs2 TRlist
Subject: [TR] Test

Test

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From tr250driver at aol.com  Fri May  3 11:01:44 2013
From: tr250driver at aol.com (Darrell Floyd)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2013 13:01:44 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Test
In-Reply-To: <1axymdvq0ec4sgq164xgctb6.1367589666788@email.android.com>
References: <1axymdvq0ec4sgq164xgctb6.1367589666788@email.android.com>
Message-ID: <8D0163705A73A80-1DFC-2EFE1@Webmail-d103.sysops.aol.com>

10-4 Good Buddy



-----Original Message-----
From: Ronnie Babbitt <rbtr3a at cox.net>
To: triumphs2 TRlist <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, May 3, 2013 10:09 am
Subject: [TR] Test


Test
** triumphs at autox.team.net **
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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orums: http://www.team.net/forums
nsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr250driver at aol.com

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Fri May  3 12:37:32 2013
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Fri, 03 May 2013 13:37:32 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] Test
Message-ID: <1315005.276677.1367606253003.JavaMail.root@vms170015>

Ronnie - you passed as you correctly spelled Test - twice.....
 
Haven't seen your name on the list for awhile.  Hope this means you are back....
 
C

Carl
1961 TR3A - TS81802LO
mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a
Tampa, Florida


-----Original Message-----
From: Ronnie Babbitt <rbtr3a at cox.net>
To: triumphs2 TRlist <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, May 3, 2013 10:09 am
Subject: [TR] Test


Test

From bkahler1 at gmail.com  Fri May  3 12:47:17 2013
From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2013 14:47:17 -0400
Subject: [TR] gauges- wiggling and bouncing
Message-ID: <CADm3DLFmk1-Rk0b8=mQxn=rJKSJ=7vxJNG1JF4tQErqTM1yuMg@mail.gmail.com>

Two of the gauges on my 63 TR4 are acting up.

The first is the oil pressure gauge which is the mechanical type.  The
readings seem to be accurate but the needle quivers or vibrates like crazy.
 It seems to do it at all pressures.  I don't know that I've ever seen a
mechanical oil pressure gauge do this.  Any thoughts?

The second problem is the speedometer.  The needle fluctuates about 1 to 4
mph while driving. I'm certain it's the speedometer cable.  The cable is
brand new and is a two piece cable with a speed sensor inline for the
cruise control.  I didn't lubricate the cable before installation assuming
since it was new it shouldn't need anything.  When I say new, I had it
custom made by a speedometer shop in Denver.  A short 8" section from the
transmission to the speed sensor and then a longer one from the sensor to
the gauge.  There are no sharp bends in the cable and  to the best of my
knowledge it follows the same routing as the original.

The cable is providing to much speed variation for the cruise control to
work properly.

Assuming it needs lubricating, what's the best lubricant for the
speedometer cable?

Thanks,

Brad
1963 TR4

From bkahler1 at gmail.com  Fri May  3 15:21:44 2013
From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (=?utf-8?B?YmthaGxlcjFAZ21haWwuY29t?=)
Date: Fri, 03 May 2013 17:21:44 -0400
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?gauges-_wiggling_and_bouncing?=
Message-ID: <51842a6b.8aff3a0a.7f90.ffffc648@mx.google.com>

Figured out part of the speedometer/cruise control issue.  I had a clamp on the cable about six inches from sender on the Speedo side.  Apparently I had it to tight.  With the speedometer cable disconnected from speed sender the cruise works great.  With everything connected again the needle moves about +- 1 mph and the cruise control doesn't seem to mph.

I am going to pull the speedometer and check it out as the insides seem to be moving around a bit.

Now to figure out the oil pressure gauge.

Brad
Sent from my HTC Inspireb" 4G on AT&T

----- Reply message -----
From: "Brad Kahler" <bkahler1 at gmail.com>
To: "Triumphs" <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: gauges- wiggling and bouncing
Date: Fri, May 3, 2013 2:47 pm
Two of the gauges on my 63 TR4 are acting up.
The first is the oil pressure gauge which is the mechanical type. B The readings seem to be accurate but the needle quivers or vibrates like crazy. B It seems to do it at all pressures. B I don't know that I've ever seen a mechanical oil pressure gauge do this. B Any thoughts?

The second problem is the speedometer. B The needleB fluctuates about 1 to 4 mph while driving. I'm certain it's the speedometer cable. B The cable is brand new and is a two piece cable with a speed sensor inline for the cruise control. B I didn't lubricate the cable before installation assuming since it was new it shouldn't need anything. B When I say new, I had it custom made by a speedometer shop in Denver. B A short 8" section from the transmission to the speed sensor and then a longer one from the sensor to the gauge. B There are no sharp bends in the cable and B to the best of my knowledge it follows the same routing as the original.

The cable is providing to much speed variation for the cruise control to work properly.
Assuming it needs lubricating, what's the best lubricant for the speedometer cable?

Thanks,
Brad1963 TR4

From wbeech at flash.net  Fri May  3 16:27:46 2013
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2013 17:27:46 -0500
Subject: [TR] gauges- wiggling and bouncing
In-Reply-To: <51842a6b.8aff3a0a.7f90.ffffc648@mx.google.com>
References: <51842a6b.8aff3a0a.7f90.ffffc648@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <D70D47B5F7D54DB490465C99E131AC94@bboffice>

Sure sounds like the oil pressue guage has something loose inside.  But,
before I would pull it out for repairs I would first remove the pressue
adjusting ball & Spring from the filter unit and make sure it is all clean.
After re-installing it, adjust the pressure up and down to see how affects
the actions of the guage.

But, probably it's the guage.

Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Even if you are on the right track, you'll get run over if you just sit
there"  Will Rodgers



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of bkahler1 at gmail.com
Sent: Friday, May 03, 2013 4:22 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] gauges- wiggling and bouncing

Figured out part of the speedometer/cruise control issue.  I had a clamp on
the cable about six inches from sender on the Speedo side.  Apparently I had
it to tight.  With the speedometer cable disconnected from speed sender the
cruise works great.  With everything connected again the needle moves about
+- 1 mph and the cruise control doesn't seem to mph.

I am going to pull the speedometer and check it out as the insides seem to
be moving around a bit.

Now to figure out the oil pressure gauge.

Brad
Sent from my HTC Inspireb" 4G on AT&T

----- Reply message -----
From: "Brad Kahler" <bkahler1 at gmail.com>
To: "Triumphs" <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: gauges- wiggling and bouncing
Date: Fri, May 3, 2013 2:47 pm
Two of the gauges on my 63 TR4 are acting up.
The first is the oil pressure gauge which is the mechanical type. B The
readings seem to be accurate but the needle quivers or vibrates like crazy.
B It seems to do it at all pressures. B I don't know that I've ever seen a
mechanical oil pressure gauge do this. B Any thoughts?

The second problem is the speedometer. B The needleB fluctuates about 1 to 4
mph while driving. I'm certain it's the speedometer cable. B The cable is
brand new and is a two piece cable with a speed sensor inline for the cruise
control. B I didn't lubricate the cable before installation assuming since
it was new it shouldn't need anything. B When I say new, I had it custom
made by a speedometer shop in Denver. B A short 8" section from the
transmission to the speed sensor and then a longer one from the sensor to
the gauge. B There are no sharp bends in the cable and B to the best of my
knowledge it follows the same routing as the original.

The cable is providing to much speed variation for the cruise control to
work properly.
Assuming it needs lubricating, what's the best lubricant for the speedometer
cable?

Thanks,
Brad1963 TR4

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri May  3 17:28:53 2013
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2013 23:28:53 +0000
Subject: [TR] gauges- wiggling and bouncing
In-Reply-To: <CADm3DLFmk1-Rk0b8=mQxn=rJKSJ=7vxJNG1JF4tQErqTM1yuMg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20130503232853.BKZUR.9305.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>

---- Brad Kahler <bkahler1 at gmail.com> wrote: 
> The first is the oil pressure gauge which is the mechanical type.  The
> readings seem to be accurate but the needle quivers or vibrates like crazy.

I sincerely hope this is not the problem : I've seen that with an engine that had spun a bearing.

> The second problem is the speedometer.  The needle fluctuates about 1 to 4
> mph while driving. I'm certain it's the speedometer cable.  The cable is
> brand new 

FWIW, my problem was caused by the odo & trip meter mechanisms binding, which put a periodic load on the cable, causing the new cable to wind up and unwind.  But it was bouncing a whole lot more than 1-4 mph.

Randall

From bkahler1 at gmail.com  Fri May  3 18:55:45 2013
From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2013 20:55:45 -0400
Subject: [TR] gauges- wiggling and bouncing
In-Reply-To: <D70D47B5F7D54DB490465C99E131AC94@bboffice>
References: <51842a6b.8aff3a0a.7f90.ffffc648@mx.google.com>
	<D70D47B5F7D54DB490465C99E131AC94@bboffice>
Message-ID: <CADm3DLEUj023aF=_T4habfY7m+QsHkHxZ1KWTvVdU_1qndrzow@mail.gmail.com>

Bill,

I hadn't thought about the oil pressure relief spring.  In this case it
would be easier for me to swap gauges which I do have a spare!

I'll probably swap this weekend to see what happens.

Thanks!

Brad


On Fri, May 3, 2013 at 6:27 PM, <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:

> Sure sounds like the oil pressue guage has something loose inside.  But,
> before I would pull it out for repairs I would first remove the pressue
> adjusting ball & Spring from the filter unit and make sure it is all clean.
> After re-installing it, adjust the pressure up and down to see how affects
> the actions of the guage.
>
> But, probably it's the guage.
>
> Bill
>
> Bill Beecher
> '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
> '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
> www.triumphowners.com/1566
> '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
> "Even if you are on the right track, you'll get run over if you just sit
> there"  Will Rodgers
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of bkahler1 at gmail.com
> Sent: Friday, May 03, 2013 4:22 PM
> To: Triumphs
> Subject: Re: [TR] gauges- wiggling and bouncing
>
> Figured out part of the speedometer/cruise control issue.  I had a clamp on
> the cable about six inches from sender on the Speedo side.  Apparently I
> had
> it to tight.  With the speedometer cable disconnected from speed sender the
> cruise works great.  With everything connected again the needle moves about
> +- 1 mph and the cruise control doesn't seem to mph.
>
> I am going to pull the speedometer and check it out as the insides seem to
> be moving around a bit.
>
> Now to figure out the oil pressure gauge.
>
> Brad
> Sent from my HTC Inspireb " 4G on AT&T
>
> ----- Reply message -----
> From: "Brad Kahler" <bkahler1 at gmail.com>
> To: "Triumphs" <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: gauges- wiggling and bouncing
> Date: Fri, May 3, 2013 2:47 pm
> Two of the gauges on my 63 TR4 are acting up.
> The first is the oil pressure gauge which is the mechanical type. B The
> readings seem to be accurate but the needle quivers or vibrates like crazy.
> B It seems to do it at all pressures. B I don't know that I've ever seen a
> mechanical oil pressure gauge do this. B Any thoughts?
>
> The second problem is the speedometer. B The needleB fluctuates about 1 to
> 4
> mph while driving. I'm certain it's the speedometer cable. B The cable is
> brand new and is a two piece cable with a speed sensor inline for the
> cruise
> control. B I didn't lubricate the cable before installation assuming since
> it was new it shouldn't need anything. B When I say new, I had it custom
> made by a speedometer shop in Denver. B A short 8" section from the
> transmission to the speed sensor and then a longer one from the sensor to
> the gauge. B There are no sharp bends in the cable and B to the best of my
> knowledge it follows the same routing as the original.
>
> The cable is providing to much speed variation for the cruise control to
> work properly.
> Assuming it needs lubricating, what's the best lubricant for the
> speedometer
> cable?
>
> Thanks,
> Brad1963 TR4
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From bkahler1 at gmail.com  Fri May  3 18:58:44 2013
From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2013 20:58:44 -0400
Subject: [TR] gauges- wiggling and bouncing
In-Reply-To: <20130503232853.BKZUR.9305.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>
References: <CADm3DLFmk1-Rk0b8=mQxn=rJKSJ=7vxJNG1JF4tQErqTM1yuMg@mail.gmail.com>
	<20130503232853.BKZUR.9305.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>
Message-ID: <CADm3DLGrXLAB6bFM5gRwn1xC=2wgMuN0d-U6RWW=VirbMhUjBQ@mail.gmail.com>

I certainly hope a spun bearing is not the problem either!

It's a new engine, probably no more than 1500 miles on it so far.  Runs
great with no noises (yet).  Not to say the rest of the car doesn't make
any noise as it a real rattle trap.

I'm beginning to think the speedometer needle problem now resides inside
the head of the speedometer.  Since I removed the clamp the cruise control
is working pretty much perfect.

I guess the same time I pull the oil pressure gauge I'll pull the
speedometer and check it out.

Thanks for the feedback.

Brad



On Fri, May 3, 2013 at 7:28 PM, Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

> ---- Brad Kahler <bkahler1 at gmail.com> wrote:
> > The first is the oil pressure gauge which is the mechanical type.  The
> > readings seem to be accurate but the needle quivers or vibrates like
> crazy.
>
> I sincerely hope this is not the problem : I've seen that with an engine
> that had spun a bearing.
>
> > The second problem is the speedometer.  The needle fluctuates about 1 to
> 4
> > mph while driving. I'm certain it's the speedometer cable.  The cable is
> > brand new
>
> FWIW, my problem was caused by the odo & trip meter mechanisms binding,
> which put a periodic load on the cable, causing the new cable to wind up
> and unwind.  But it was bouncing a whole lot more than 1-4 mph.
>
> Randall
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bkahler1 at gmail.com

From tr3abobm77 at frontier.com  Fri May  3 19:54:43 2013
From: tr3abobm77 at frontier.com (Bob Maassel)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2013 21:54:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] gauges- wiggling and bouncing
In-Reply-To: <CADm3DLGrXLAB6bFM5gRwn1xC=2wgMuN0d-U6RWW=VirbMhUjBQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CADm3DLFmk1-Rk0b8=mQxn=rJKSJ=7vxJNG1JF4tQErqTM1yuMg@mail.gmail.com><20130503232853.BKZUR.9305.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>
	<CADm3DLGrXLAB6bFM5gRwn1xC=2wgMuN0d-U6RWW=VirbMhUjBQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C6E7A96A99FF4B93B9AB8D7FD81B761C@bobmaassel3>

You might check to see if the line between the engine and the gauge is full 
of oil or not. If you have even the slightest leak near the gauge the air 
will get displaced with oil and then the gauge will follow the pulses from 
the pump. It is the air compressing that dampens the movement.

Bob Maassel
59 TR3A TS39869L
tr3abobm77 at frontier.com

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Brad Kahler" <bkahler1 at gmail.com>
Sent: Friday, May 03, 2013 8:58 PM
To: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
Cc: "Triumphs" <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] gauges- wiggling and bouncing

> I certainly hope a spun bearing is not the problem either!
>
> It's a new engine, probably no more than 1500 miles on it so far.  Runs
> great with no noises (yet).  Not to say the rest of the car doesn't make
> any noise as it a real rattle trap.
>
> I'm beginning to think the speedometer needle problem now resides inside
> the head of the speedometer.  Since I removed the clamp the cruise control
> is working pretty much perfect.
>
> I guess the same time I pull the oil pressure gauge I'll pull the
> speedometer and check it out.
>
> Thanks for the feedback.
>
> Brad
>
>
>
> On Fri, May 3, 2013 at 7:28 PM, Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
>
>> ---- Brad Kahler <bkahler1 at gmail.com> wrote:
>> > The first is the oil pressure gauge which is the mechanical type.  The
>> > readings seem to be accurate but the needle quivers or vibrates like
>> crazy.
>>
>> I sincerely hope this is not the problem : I've seen that with an engine
>> that had spun a bearing.
>>
>> > The second problem is the speedometer.  The needle fluctuates about 1 
>> > to
>> 4
>> > mph while driving. I'm certain it's the speedometer cable.  The cable 
>> > is
>> > brand new
>>
>> FWIW, my problem was caused by the odo & trip meter mechanisms binding,
>> which put a periodic load on the cable, causing the new cable to wind up
>> and unwind.  But it was bouncing a whole lot more than 1-4 mph.
>>
>> Randall
>>
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bkahler1 at gmail.com
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3abobm77 at frontier.com
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2013.0.3272 / Virus Database: 3162/6295 - Release Date: 05/03/13

From bkahler1 at gmail.com  Fri May  3 20:01:21 2013
From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2013 22:01:21 -0400
Subject: [TR] gauges- wiggling and bouncing
In-Reply-To: <C6E7A96A99FF4B93B9AB8D7FD81B761C@bobmaassel3>
References: <CADm3DLFmk1-Rk0b8=mQxn=rJKSJ=7vxJNG1JF4tQErqTM1yuMg@mail.gmail.com>
	<20130503232853.BKZUR.9305.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>
	<CADm3DLGrXLAB6bFM5gRwn1xC=2wgMuN0d-U6RWW=VirbMhUjBQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<C6E7A96A99FF4B93B9AB8D7FD81B761C@bobmaassel3>
Message-ID: <CADm3DLEByC+pTdDqPo8H_CR6T8gno7rHMS==rUitB=ymW=dYWg@mail.gmail.com>

Bob, that interesting and makes sense.

If there is a leak it's not an obvious one.  I wonder if there is a
procedure for bleeding the air out of the line without making a mess in the
cockpit.

Thanks,

Brad


On Fri, May 3, 2013 at 9:54 PM, Bob Maassel <tr3abobm77 at frontier.com> wrote:

> You might check to see if the line between the engine and the gauge is
> full of oil or not. If you have even the slightest leak near the gauge the
> air will get displaced with oil and then the gauge will follow the pulses
> from the pump. It is the air compressing that dampens the movement.
>
> Bob Maassel
> 59 TR3A TS39869L
> tr3abobm77 at frontier.com
>
> ------------------------------**--------------------
> From: "Brad Kahler" <bkahler1 at gmail.com>
> Sent: Friday, May 03, 2013 8:58 PM
> To: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
> Cc: "Triumphs" <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] gauges- wiggling and bouncing
>
>  I certainly hope a spun bearing is not the problem either!
>>
>> It's a new engine, probably no more than 1500 miles on it so far.  Runs
>> great with no noises (yet).  Not to say the rest of the car doesn't make
>> any noise as it a real rattle trap.
>>
>> I'm beginning to think the speedometer needle problem now resides inside
>> the head of the speedometer.  Since I removed the clamp the cruise control
>> is working pretty much perfect.
>>
>> I guess the same time I pull the oil pressure gauge I'll pull the
>> speedometer and check it out.
>>
>> Thanks for the feedback.
>>
>> Brad
>>
>>
>>
>> On Fri, May 3, 2013 at 7:28 PM, Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
>>
>>  ---- Brad Kahler <bkahler1 at gmail.com> wrote:
>>> > The first is the oil pressure gauge which is the mechanical type.  The
>>> > readings seem to be accurate but the needle quivers or vibrates like
>>> crazy.
>>>
>>> I sincerely hope this is not the problem : I've seen that with an engine
>>> that had spun a bearing.
>>>
>>> > The second problem is the speedometer.  The needle fluctuates about 1
>>> > to
>>> 4
>>> > mph while driving. I'm certain it's the speedometer cable.  The cable
>>> > is
>>> > brand new
>>>
>>> FWIW, my problem was caused by the odo & trip meter mechanisms binding,
>>> which put a periodic load on the cable, causing the new cable to wind up
>>> and unwind.  But it was bouncing a whole lot more than 1-4 mph.
>>>
>>> Randall
>>>
>>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/**options/triumphs/bkahler1@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bkahler1 at gmail.com>
>>>
>>
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
>> options/triumphs/tr3abobm77@**frontier.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3abobm77 at frontier.com>
>>
>>
>> -----
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> Version: 2013.0.3272 / Virus Database: 3162/6295 - Release Date: 05/03/13

From dave at ranteer.com  Fri May  3 21:14:59 2013
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2013 22:14:59 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3B disk brake
In-Reply-To: <CADm3DLEByC+pTdDqPo8H_CR6T8gno7rHMS==rUitB=ymW=dYWg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CADm3DLFmk1-Rk0b8=mQxn=rJKSJ=7vxJNG1JF4tQErqTM1yuMg@mail.gmail.com><20130503232853.BKZUR.9305.root@cdptpa-web01-z01><CADm3DLGrXLAB6bFM5gRwn1xC=2wgMuN0d-U6RWW=VirbMhUjBQ@mail.gmail.com><C6E7A96A99FF4B93B9AB8D7FD81B761C@bobmaassel3>
	<CADm3DLEByC+pTdDqPo8H_CR6T8gno7rHMS==rUitB=ymW=dYWg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <92F51EE0D8104EEA841F08BA3BD15BDF@Datsun>

car sat for some years.  when I pulled it onto the trailer, the front left 
was locked up.  when the winch pulled it up the trailer, it released it so 
that it turned, and then rolled off the trailer into my garage.

bled the brakes, pumped it and it locked.  brake pedal was rock hard; no 
movement.

replaced the front left hose which obviously means lots of brake fluid 
leaked out (yes, I had a tray and caught it), and I hit the disc brake with 
a mallet and it loosened it enough so that I could spin the wheel 
(grudgingly).

I have not rebled or refilled yet; I am also going to replace the front 
right hose.

my question - looks like probably the disc brake is the problem; can I take 
it off, lubricate it or something?  is there anything I can do short of 
replacing it?  or is that my best option?

thanks!

From malcolm at ipatch.ca  Fri May  3 21:57:10 2013
From: malcolm at ipatch.ca (Malcolm)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2013 20:57:10 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3B disk brake
In-Reply-To: <92F51EE0D8104EEA841F08BA3BD15BDF@Datsun>
References: <CADm3DLFmk1-Rk0b8=mQxn=rJKSJ=7vxJNG1JF4tQErqTM1yuMg@mail.gmail.com>
	<20130503232853.BKZUR.9305.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>
	<CADm3DLGrXLAB6bFM5gRwn1xC=2wgMuN0d-U6RWW=VirbMhUjBQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<C6E7A96A99FF4B93B9AB8D7FD81B761C@bobmaassel3>
	<CADm3DLEByC+pTdDqPo8H_CR6T8gno7rHMS==rUitB=ymW=dYWg@mail.gmail.com>
	<92F51EE0D8104EEA841F08BA3BD15BDF@Datsun>
Message-ID: <CAGjWObXddvE8fVG2Ex1PYPUyzzrVNpkZFZ5cnavm_7M2VweaEg@mail.gmail.com>

Dave, take off the caliper, and rebuild it.  (new rubbers, new pistons).
 You don't need to separate the halves, although I'm sure there are plenty
of reasons to do / not do that in the archives.

The rubber seals around the pistons are what stops the brake from locking
on.  There should be nominal drag when they are OK, but not enough to lock
the wheel.


On Fri, May 3, 2013 at 8:14 PM, Dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:

> car sat for some years.  when I pulled it onto the trailer, the front left
> was locked up.  when the winch pulled it up the trailer, it released it so
> that it turned, and then rolled off the trailer into my garage.
>
> bled the brakes, pumped it and it locked.  brake pedal was rock hard; no
> movement.
>
> replaced the front left hose which obviously means lots of brake fluid
> leaked out (yes, I had a tray and caught it), and I hit the disc brake with
> a mallet and it loosened it enough so that I could spin the wheel
> (grudgingly).
>
> I have not rebled or refilled yet; I am also going to replace the front
> right hose.
>
> my question - looks like probably the disc brake is the problem; can I
> take it off, lubricate it or something?  is there anything I can do short
> of replacing it?  or is that my best option?
>
> thanks!
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/triumphs/malcolm@**ipatch.ca<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/malcolm at ipatch.ca>

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri May  3 23:02:30 2013
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 3 May 2013 22:02:30 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3B disk brake
In-Reply-To: <92F51EE0D8104EEA841F08BA3BD15BDF@Datsun>
Message-ID: <5C.9F.16585.F5694815@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> my question - looks like probably the disc brake is the 
> problem; can I take it off, lubricate it or something?  is 
> there anything I can do short of replacing it?  or is that my 
> best option?

The calipers can usually be rebuilt a lot cheaper than replacing them, even
if you need to replace the pistons.  If it isn't leaking, you might try
pushing the pistons back into the caliper body and then pumping the pedal to
move them out again.  Sometimes that will free them up.  But frequently,
doing that will also make it start leaking, so perhaps a rebuild is the best
course.

Don't forget the 3rd soft line, at the rear axle.  If the front hoses are in
bad shape, chances are that it's ready to be replaced as well.

-- Randall 

From trguy75 at gmail.com  Sat May  4 06:02:52 2013
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Sat, 4 May 2013 08:02:52 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 Oil Filter
Message-ID: <004801ce48bf$4f03de10$ed0b9a30$@gmail.com>

Anyone have a list of oil filters that fit the TR4 spin on oil filter
adapter.

Thanks,

Jim Henningsen

Ocala FL

62 TR4

From dave1massey at cs.com  Sat May  4 07:04:36 2013
From: dave1massey at cs.com (Dave Massey)
Date: Sat, 4 May 2013 09:04:36 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3B disk brake
In-Reply-To: <92F51EE0D8104EEA841F08BA3BD15BDF@Datsun>
References: <CADm3DLFmk1-Rk0b8=mQxn=rJKSJ=7vxJNG1JF4tQErqTM1yuMg@mail.gmail.com><20130503232853.BKZUR.9305.root@cdptpa-web01-z01><CADm3DLGrXLAB6bFM5gRwn1xC=2wgMuN0d-U6RWW=VirbMhUjBQ@mail.gmail.com><C6E7A96A99FF4B93B9AB8D7FD81B761C@bobmaassel3>
	<CADm3DLEByC+pTdDqPo8H_CR6T8gno7rHMS==rUitB=ymW=dYWg@mail.gmail.com>
	<92F51EE0D8104EEA841F08BA3BD15BDF@Datsun>
Message-ID: <8D016DF0FCBF351-1FCC-C1A@webmail-m278.sysops.aol.com>

You may be due for a caliper rebuild.  If the dust seals fail and moisture
gets into the piston area rust can build up causing the piston to fail to
retract.  If this is the case a rebuild kit and new pistons will fix things up
just fine.





Dave Massey






-----Original Message-----
From: Dave <dave at ranteer.com>
To: triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, May 3, 2013 10:25 pm
Subject: [TR] TR3B disk brake


car sat for some years.  when I pulled it onto the trailer, the front left
was locked up.  when the winch pulled it up the trailer, it released it so
that it turned, and then rolled off the trailer into my garage.

bled the brakes, pumped it and it locked.  brake pedal was rock hard; no
movement.

replaced the front left hose which obviously means lots of brake fluid
leaked out (yes, I had a tray and caught it), and I hit the disc brake with
a mallet and it loosened it enough so that I could spin the wheel
(grudgingly).

I have not rebled or refilled yet; I am also going to replace the front
right hose.

my question - looks like probably the disc brake is the problem; can I take
it off, lubricate it or something?  is there anything I can do short of
replacing it?  or is that my best option?

thanks!

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com

From tfansher at comcast.net  Sat May  4 07:06:09 2013
From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 4 May 2013 09:06:09 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 Oil Filter
In-Reply-To: <004801ce48bf$4f03de10$ed0b9a30$@gmail.com>
References: <004801ce48bf$4f03de10$ed0b9a30$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CFD9776C61D44D428ED5265BFDF7D975@OwnerPC>

Jim, I'm sure there's a list somewhere in the archives, but I use a Fram 
3600.  You can cross reference from there. Have a good Saturday - tomorrow 
should be beautiful here in Central Florida.
Tom

-----Original Message----- 
From: James Henningsen
Sent: Saturday, May 04, 2013 8:02 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR4 Oil Filter

Anyone have a list of oil filters that fit the TR4 spin on oil filter
adapter.

Thanks,

Jim Henningsen

Ocala FL

62 TR4

From tfansher at comcast.net  Sat May  4 07:09:33 2013
From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 4 May 2013 09:09:33 -0400
Subject: [TR] oil filters for TR3 & 4
Message-ID: <888E16678117473B8960F69C634003DA@OwnerPC>

From: tfansher at comcast.net
Sent: Thursday, August 19, 2010 12:01 PM
To: Thomas Fansher
Subject: oil filters for TR3 & 4
Actually, I found these in my barchivesb
Tom
Fram   PH3600
NAPA Gold 1516
Mobil 1  M1209
Purolator PL20195

From dave at ranteer.com  Sat May  4 07:48:40 2013
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Sat, 4 May 2013 08:48:40 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 Oil Filter
In-Reply-To: <004801ce48bf$4f03de10$ed0b9a30$@gmail.com>
References: <004801ce48bf$4f03de10$ed0b9a30$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <48DE1DD51A1D4D2F89220AA76E5D1052@Datsun>

http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr6/filters/


-----Original Message----- 
From: James Henningsen 
Sent: Saturday, May 04, 2013 7:02 AM 
To: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Subject: [TR] TR4 Oil Filter 

Anyone have a list of oil filters that fit the TR4 spin on oil filter
adapter.

Thanks,

Jim Henningsen

Ocala FL

62 TR4

From dave at ranteer.com  Sat May  4 08:07:25 2013
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Sat, 4 May 2013 09:07:25 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 Oil Filter
In-Reply-To: <48DE1DD51A1D4D2F89220AA76E5D1052@Datsun>
References: <004801ce48bf$4f03de10$ed0b9a30$@gmail.com>
	<48DE1DD51A1D4D2F89220AA76E5D1052@Datsun>
Message-ID: <6A2CBF2F3EFC47BCA61CC1B31DB6C21C@Datsun>

these should fit all TR's and I believe spitfire spin on oil filter adapter

-----Original Message----- 
From: Dave 
Sent: Saturday, May 04, 2013 8:48 AM 
To: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Oil Filter 

http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr6/filters/


-----Original Message----- 
From: James Henningsen 
Sent: Saturday, May 04, 2013 7:02 AM 
To: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Subject: [TR] TR4 Oil Filter 

Anyone have a list of oil filters that fit the TR4 spin on oil filter
adapter.

Thanks,

Jim Henningsen

Ocala FL

62 TR4

From agraham at execulink.com  Sat May  4 12:43:36 2013
From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham)
Date: Sat, 04 May 2013 14:43:36 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 - stator tube leaking.
Message-ID: <518556D8.3010203@execulink.com>

Hello List:
Dealing with some of the "finishing touches" on my long standing TR2 
project and struggling with a leaking stator tube nut/ferrule at the end 
of the steering box. Have tried a new nut and brass ferrule after 
stripping my original nut. Still no luck. Don't want to overtighten the 
new nut. Have checked the tube for irregularities, but seems OK.
Is this one of the slow leaks you have to learn to live with?? Can 
always keep topping up the steering box. Concerned about keeping the top 
bearing in oil as I understand that this bearing often dries out.
Any hints with this one??
Thanks in advance.
Angelo Graham

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Sat May  4 13:10:09 2013
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Sat, 4 May 2013 14:10:09 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 - stator tube leaking.
In-Reply-To: <518556D8.3010203@execulink.com>
References: <518556D8.3010203@execulink.com>
Message-ID: <D2EC375B28784232BCCCCCAE66B5A987@livingroompc>

Angelo, you want this stuff, I think Moss might sell it too, but this is the 
first thing that came up on a google search, it is a very thick oil which 
doesn't like to leak, I went through the same thing in my Austin Healey box 
(similar set-up) and the penrite almost entirely eliminated the leak, not 
quite entirely but awful close.

http://www.holden.co.uk/displayproduct.asp?pCode=015.947

Greg Lemon 

From trguy75 at gmail.com  Sat May  4 15:18:29 2013
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Sat, 4 May 2013 17:18:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 Oil Filter
In-Reply-To: <6A2CBF2F3EFC47BCA61CC1B31DB6C21C@Datsun>
References: <004801ce48bf$4f03de10$ed0b9a30$@gmail.com>
	<48DE1DD51A1D4D2F89220AA76E5D1052@Datsun>
	<6A2CBF2F3EFC47BCA61CC1B31DB6C21C@Datsun>
Message-ID: <007201ce490c$ed9b82b0$c8d28810$@gmail.com>

Thanks:
Wasn't sure if they were different than TR6 spin on.
Jim Henningsen

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave
Sent: Saturday, May 04, 2013 10:07 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Oil Filter

these should fit all TR's and I believe spitfire spin on oil filter adapter

-----Original Message-----
From: Dave
Sent: Saturday, May 04, 2013 8:48 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Oil Filter 

http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr6/filters/


-----Original Message-----
From: James Henningsen
Sent: Saturday, May 04, 2013 7:02 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR4 Oil Filter 

Anyone have a list of oil filters that fit the TR4 spin on oil filter
adapter.

Thanks,

Jim Henningsen

Ocala FL

62 TR4

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Sat May  4 19:44:55 2013
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Sat, 4 May 2013 18:44:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] ??
In-Reply-To: <518556D8.3010203@execulink.com>
References: <518556D8.3010203@execulink.com>
Message-ID: <1367718295.58410.YahooMailNeo@web120006.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

where is Paul Dorsey these days?
 
frank

From spamiam at comcast.net  Sat May  4 20:06:59 2013
From: spamiam at comcast.net (Anthony Rhodes)
Date: Sat, 4 May 2013 22:06:59 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tr4a miata seats
Message-ID: <1B435B7D-5E9A-45D8-9316-4C9766BF789E@comcast.net>

I just installed miata seats (1997) in my  1867 TR4a. They fit well with the
Patton adapters. Very very comfortable. Great upper back support.  Seated
height is the same as my original seats  When I install the headrest speakers
they will be even better!

-Tony

From bkahler1 at gmail.com  Sat May  4 20:23:36 2013
From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (=?utf-8?B?YmthaGxlcjFAZ21haWwuY29t?=)
Date: Sat, 04 May 2013 22:23:36 -0400
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Tr4a_miata_seats?=
Message-ID: <5185c2aa.c59fec0a.5abb.ffffc03b@mx.google.com>

Tony, I think you own the oldest known TR4A on record :)

Sent from my HTC Inspireb" 4G on AT&T

----- Reply message -----
From: "Anthony Rhodes" <spamiam at comcast.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Tr4a miata seats
Date: Sat, May 4, 2013 10:06 pm


I just installed miata seats (1997) in my  1867 TR4a. They fit well with the
Patton adapters. Very very comfortable. Great upper back support.  Seated
height is the same as my original seats  When I install the headrest speakers
they will be even better!

-Tony

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From spook01 at comcast.net  Sat May  4 20:54:44 2013
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Sat, 04 May 2013 21:54:44 -0500
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Tr4a_miata_seats?=
Message-ID: <mailman.7.1367722609.1861.triumphs@autox.team.net>

Hmmm.  An early post unpleasantness model.  Does it have the optional bison carrier?

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Anthony Rhodes" <spamiam at comcast.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Tr4a miata seats
Date: Sat, May 4, 2013 21:06


I just installed miata seats (1997) in my  1867 TR4a. They fit well with the
Patton adapters. Very very comfortable. Great upper back support.  Seated
height is the same as my original seats  When I install the headrest speakers
they will be even better!

-Tony

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From spamiam at comcast.net  Sat May  4 21:07:41 2013
From: spamiam at comcast.net (Anthony Rhodes)
Date: Sat, 4 May 2013 23:07:41 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tr4a miata seats
Message-ID: <C51F0C7E-AE17-420F-BE72-6F22B5784589@comcast.net>

No just the cow catcher. I mo longer need to use coal to fire the steam
engine.  I updated it with Stanley parts!

-Tony

Sent from my iPhone

On May 4, 2013, at 10:54 PM, "spook01 at comcast.net" <spook01 at comcast.net>
wrote:

> Hmmm.  An early post unpleasantness model.  Does it have the optional bison
carrier?
>
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone
>
> ----- Reply message -----
> From: "Anthony Rhodes" <spamiam at comcast.net>
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [TR] Tr4a miata seats
> Date: Sat, May 4, 2013 21:06
>
>
> I just installed miata seats (1997) in my  1867 TR4a. They fit well with
the
> Patton adapters. Very very comfortable. Great upper back support.  Seated
> height is the same as my original seats  When I install the headrest
speakers
> they will be even better!
>
> -Tony
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net

From spook01 at comcast.net  Sun May  5 10:18:02 2013
From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01 at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 5 May 2013 16:18:02 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Tr4a miata seats
In-Reply-To: <C51F0C7E-AE17-420F-BE72-6F22B5784589@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <630348285.1719738.1367770682607.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

;-)


"Life's tough....It's even tougher if you're stupid."
-John Wayne

----- Original Message -----
From: "Anthony Rhodes" <spamiam at comcast.net>
To: spook01 at comcast.net
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Saturday, May 4, 2013 10:07:41 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Tr4a miata seats

No just the cow catcher. I mo longer need to use coal to fire the steam
engine. B I updated it with Stanley parts!

-Tony

Sent from my iPhone

On May 4, 2013, at 10:54 PM, "spook01 at comcast.net" <spook01 at comcast.net>
wrote:

> Hmmm. B An early post unpleasantness model. B Does it have the optional
bison carrier?
>
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone
>
> ----- Reply message -----
> From: "Anthony Rhodes" <spamiam at comcast.net>
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [TR] Tr4a miata seats
> Date: Sat, May 4, 2013 21:06
>
>
> I just installed miata seats (1997) in my B 1867 TR4a. They fit well with
the
> Patton adapters. Very very comfortable. Great upper back support. B Seated
> height is the same as my original seats B When I install the headrest
speakers
> they will be even better!
>
> -Tony
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net

From bkahler1 at gmail.com  Sun May  5 18:54:59 2013
From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Sun, 5 May 2013 20:54:59 -0400
Subject: [TR] EGR valve?
Message-ID: <CADm3DLHJgQvNA5kgybJZgzOVh21e8Y_u0HBUSLuLB1xLtvAvQA@mail.gmail.com>

Not sure I'd want to buy from this seller.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TRIUMPH-1964-TR4-2134-EGR-VALVE-AND-ELBOW-/1908330133
20?<http://www.ebay.com/itm/TRIUMPH-1964-TR4-2134-EGR-VALVE-AND-ELBOW-/190833
013320?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ATriumph%7CModel%3AT
R4&hash=item2c6e88b248&vxp=mtr>

From lherault at bu.edu  Sun May  5 19:40:13 2013
From: lherault at bu.edu (Ron L'Herault)
Date: Sun, 5 May 2013 21:40:13 -0400
Subject: [TR] '73 TR6 wheel hub cover
Message-ID: <003b01ce49fa$a7b82d40$f72887c0$@edu>

Might anyone have an original center cover, gray with red TR-6 center that
they would be willing to part with?  I have one creacked one that I'd like
to replace.

Thanks,

Ron L in North Attleboro, MA.

From spamiam at comcast.net  Mon May  6 07:10:17 2013
From: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 13:10:17 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Tr4a miata seats
In-Reply-To: <228FD551A1764CEFBF72B7CFB64E254C@DaveLaptop>
Message-ID: <1193396762.1736095.1367845817967.JavaMail.root@sz0135a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

I fitted the 1997 Miata seats into my 1967 (not 1867) TR4A over the weekend,



The Patton adapters worked well, though one of the rear passenger side feet on
the tracks seems to have been modified compared to the tracks that were used
for the design of the adapters. A little modification of the track made the
adapter fit properly.



The seating position is excellent. Seated height is no higher than the
original seats and with the seat back in a comfortable position, the view
through the windshield is actually somewhat below that with the original
seats. It is very nice to have upper back support. It is MUCH more
comfortable.





It is noticeable that the seats are firmer than the originals. With the crude
TR4A suspension, it becomes apparent that the rubber diaphragm and the softer
foams of the original seat served to absorb some of the suspension harshness.
On very rough pavement there are occasionally significant jolts transmitted by
the seat that seemed a little less apparent with the original seats. However,
I think that is a very worthwhile trade-off for the overall comfort of the
high back.B  All in all I can strongly recommend the Miata seat conversion!



Now to get the headrest beaker systems installed.

From bill_beecher at flash.net  Mon May  6 08:55:08 2013
From: bill_beecher at flash.net (bill_beecher at flash.net)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 09:55:08 -0500
Subject: [TR] Changing from DOT 3 to DOT 5 Fluif
Message-ID: <4181884CA97D4F7A96D42D63ADD46145@bboffice>

Getting ready to help a friend move to DOT5 brake fluid and the question
arose as how to best flush the system and cylinders.  I have always started
with an empty system on a re-build and have never addressed a changeover.
 
He was told to flush alcohol throught the system afer draining the DOT3 to
help rid any dampness in the system, but I wondered if it will damage any of
the rubber bits.
 
Also, I don't see how we can get 100% of the DOT3 out, there is bound to be
some residue, will there be a serious compatibility issue with a slight mix
of the different types?
 
BTW, Happy Birthday to TS30766L on Cinco de Mayo... Ole!
 
 
Many thanks,
Bill
 
Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
 <http://www.triumphowners.com/1566> www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Even if you are on the right track, you'll get run over if you just sit
there"  Will Rodgers

From kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Mon May  6 09:51:28 2013
From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 08:51:28 -0700
Subject: [TR] Changing from DOT 3 to DOT 5 Fluif
In-Reply-To: <4181884CA97D4F7A96D42D63ADD46145@bboffice>
References: <4181884CA97D4F7A96D42D63ADD46145@bboffice>
Message-ID: <000001ce4a71$926697c0$b733c740$@net>

I switched to DOT 5 on an existing system, no new parts. It was at a tune n
tech (professional garage with good equipment) so we pumped out the old and
pumped in the new. Did remove the reservoir (TR3A) because there was so much
gunk in it that we wanted to get out. Otherwise, no flushing and many years
later and I haven't touched it again.
Bob

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of bill_beecher at flash.net
Sent: Monday, May 06, 2013 7:55 AM
To: 'Triumphs'
Subject: [TR] Changing from DOT 3 to DOT 5 Fluif

Getting ready to help a friend move to DOT5 brake fluid and the question
arose as how to best flush the system and cylinders.  I have always started
with an empty system on a re-build and have never addressed a changeover.
 
He was told to flush alcohol throught the system afer draining the DOT3 to
help rid any dampness in the system, but I wondered if it will damage any of
the rubber bits.
 
Also, I don't see how we can get 100% of the DOT3 out, there is bound to be
some residue, will there be a serious compatibility issue with a slight mix
of the different types?

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon May  6 11:02:40 2013
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 13:02:40 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Tr4a miata seats
Message-ID: <c6fb8.17a3aae7.3eb93c30@cs.com>

In a message dated 5/6/2013 8:12:29 AM Central Daylight Time, 
spamiam at comcast.net writes: 
> It is noticeable that the seats are firmer than the originals. With the 
> crude
> TR4A suspension, it becomes apparent that the rubber diaphragm and the 
> softer
> foams of the original seat served to absorb some of the suspension 
> harshness.
> On very rough pavement there are occasionally significant jolts 
> transmitted by
> the seat that seemed a little less apparent with the original seats. 
> However,
> I think that is a very worthwhile trade-off for the overall comfort of the
> high back.B  All in all I can strongly recommend the Miata seat 
> conversion!
> 
> 
> 
> Now to get the headrest beaker systems installed.
> 

The beaker system for formulating those analgesic concoctions for counter 
those headaches from the firm seats and stiff suspension, no doubt.

;-)

Dave

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon May  6 11:42:51 2013
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 13:42:51 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Changing from DOT 3 to DOT 5 Fluif
Message-ID: <c8369.3fecedf0.3eb9459b@cs.com>

This is a good time to rebuild the calipers and wheel cylinders.  You can 
blow the lines out with compressed air. That would clean those out, but I 
don't see any way to empty the calipers of DOT 3 without dismounting them.  
Even turning them upside down may not suffice.

Dave

In a message dated 5/6/2013 9:59:41 AM Central Daylight Time, 
bill_beecher at flash.net writes: 
> Also, I don't see how we can get 100% of the DOT3 out, there is bound to 
> be
> some residue, will there be a serious compatibility issue with a slight 
> mix
> of the different types?

From deruiterville at hotmail.com  Mon May  6 11:59:30 2013
From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 12:59:30 -0500
Subject: [TR] Changing from DOT 3 to DOT 5 Fluif
In-Reply-To: <4181884CA97D4F7A96D42D63ADD46145@bboffice>
References: <4181884CA97D4F7A96D42D63ADD46145@bboffice>
Message-ID: <BAY150-W2548C7905174C755266C00B9B90@phx.gbl>

I changed from Dot 3 to Dot 5 about a year ago on a pretty fresh brake system.
I flushed the Dot 3 out with copious amounts of alcohol, then blew out the
alcohol and ran air for a while to dry things out.  Dot 5 went into an empty
system.  It was a very clean system to begin with, and I've seen no ill
effects on seals.


> >
> Also, I don't see how we can get 100% of the DOT3 out, there is bound to be
> some residue, will there be a serious compatibility issue with a slight mix
> of the different types?

From spitlist at cox.net  Mon May  6 12:35:56 2013
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 11:35:56 -0700
Subject: [TR] Changing from DOT 3 to DOT 5 Fluif
In-Reply-To: <c8369.3fecedf0.3eb9459b@cs.com>
References: <c8369.3fecedf0.3eb9459b@cs.com>
Message-ID: <6DD7613152644A40A235588E7115F14A@Vista>

When I changed to Dot 5 many years ago, I drained all the previous fluid and
blew the lines out as best I could with compressed air.  Then I filled the
system with DT 5 and bled until solid brake pressure was achieved.  The DOT
5 forces all remaining DOT3 stuff out of the system.  I only had one problem
and that was a leaking left front caliper.  So I removed and rebuilt only
that piece and after 12 years it has been perfect.

And it's spelled "fluid"!  Trust me, I know!  :)

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave1massey at cs.com
Sent: Monday, May 06, 2013 10:43 AM
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Changing from DOT 3 to DOT 5 Fluif

This is a good time to rebuild the calipers and wheel cylinders.  You can 
blow the lines out with compressed air. That would clean those out, but I 
don't see any way to empty the calipers of DOT 3 without dismounting them.  
Even turning them upside down may not suffice.

Dave

In a message dated 5/6/2013 9:59:41 AM Central Daylight Time, 
bill_beecher at flash.net writes: 
> Also, I don't see how we can get 100% of the DOT3 out, there is bound to 
> be
> some residue, will there be a serious compatibility issue with a slight 
> mix
> of the different types?

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon May  6 12:55:32 2013
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 18:55:32 +0000
Subject: [TR] Changing from DOT 3 to DOT 5 Fluif
In-Reply-To: <4181884CA97D4F7A96D42D63ADD46145@bboffice>
Message-ID: <20130506185532.QK9CS.37570.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>

---- bill_beecher at flash.net wrote: 
> He was told to flush alcohol throught the system afer draining the DOT3 to
> help rid any dampness in the system, but I wondered if it will damage any of
> the rubber bits.

Methanol is supposed to be safe for the rubber bits.  Denatured is a bit of a guess, as they won't tell you what they put in to make it poisonous.

> Also, I don't see how we can get 100% of the DOT3 out, there is bound to be
> some residue, will there be a serious compatibility issue with a slight mix
> of the different types?

No serious compatibility issue.  They won't actually mix, the DOT 3 stays separate from the DOT 5.  If you take cylinders apart later, you may find a pocket of black goo in the very bottom of the cylinder, but it doesn't seem to hurt anything.

Randall

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Mon May  6 16:54:25 2013
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 15:54:25 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3A/TR6 Rattling Trans
Message-ID: <1367880865.52282.YahooMailNeo@web180902.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

     I have a TR6 transmission with A-type overdrive in my TR3A. I probably
have 80,000 miles on it. It has been rattling under load for a couple of years
now. When I change the oil yearly it comes our clear with no swarf on the
plug, so I haven't worried too much.
     The rattling seems to be getting
louder now and causes me concern. At what point do I pull the trans and
rebuild it? Is it worrisome enough to pull it now that the driving season is
here or can I wait until next winter and take it on as a winter project? What
can happen if I keep driving it? Are the trans as rugged as the little tractor
engines? They seem to limp on forever.
     Also, I read in Bob Schaller's
excellent book "More BS About Triumphs" that I should replace the needle
bearings with bronze bushings. Has anyone else done this? Any comments?
    
TIA,

     Bill in Tehachapi

From dconnitt at fuse.net  Mon May  6 17:30:23 2013
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 19:30:23 -0400
Subject: [TR] Changing from DOT 3 to DOT 5 Fluif
In-Reply-To: <c8369.3fecedf0.3eb9459b@cs.com>
References: <c8369.3fecedf0.3eb9459b@cs.com>
Message-ID: <591B4665160E483EA04B3318AB736255@DaveLaptop>

Just wanted to pass on that when I recieved my clutch master cylinder from The
Roadster Factory, the box had a label that said "Use of synthetic hydralic
fluid will void warranty". I was fully planning on using DOT5 fluid until I
read the box. Later that week I called TRF to find out what the deal was and
the guy told me that they had a lot of warranty returns for brake parts using
synthetic fluid and the manufacturer started placing a warning label on the
master cylinders.. I am about a month away from getting to bleeding the brakes
and clutch and still haven't decided which way I will go.
Just sayin..
Dave Connitt

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon May  6 17:33:45 2013
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 23:33:45 +0000
Subject: [TR] Changing from DOT 3 to DOT 5 Fluif
In-Reply-To: <591B4665160E483EA04B3318AB736255@DaveLaptop>
Message-ID: <20130506233345.GDDVF.38985.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>

---- Dave Connitt <dconnitt at fuse.net> wrote: 
> Just wanted to pass on that when I recieved my clutch master cylinder from The
> Roadster Factory, the box had a label that said "Use of synthetic hydralic
> fluid will void warranty". 

That's odd.  "No DOT 5" warnings are common; but DOT 5 is not the same as "synthetic".  

In fact, all DOT brake fluid is "synthetic" (not refined directly from petroleum) and it is quite common to see the "synthetic" name applied to DOT 3 & 4 brake fluid.  For example:
http://goo.gl/vwNQU

Randall

From dconnitt at fuse.net  Mon May  6 18:12:09 2013
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 20:12:09 -0400
Subject: [TR] Changing from DOT 3 to DOT 5 Fluif
In-Reply-To: <20130506233345.GDDVF.38985.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>
References: <20130506233345.GDDVF.38985.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>
Message-ID: <32C42BBA3A23458683724891A79237FB@DaveLaptop>

I have not rememberd correctly. I will contact The Roadster Factory again to 
clarify this because I would really like to not use DOT3..
Stand by..
Dave Connitt

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>; "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt at fuse.net>
Sent: Monday, May 06, 2013 7:33 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Changing from DOT 3 to DOT 5 Fluif


>
> ---- Dave Connitt <dconnitt at fuse.net> wrote:
>> Just wanted to pass on that when I recieved my clutch master cylinder 
>> from The
>> Roadster Factory, the box had a label that said "Use of synthetic 
>> hydralic
>> fluid will void warranty".
>
> That's odd.  "No DOT 5" warnings are common; but DOT 5 is not the same as 
> "synthetic".
>
> In fact, all DOT brake fluid is "synthetic" (not refined directly from 
> petroleum) and it is quite common to see the "synthetic" name applied to 
> DOT 3 & 4 brake fluid.  For example:
> http://goo.gl/vwNQU
>
> Randall 

From rjones at wfeca.net  Mon May  6 18:13:58 2013
From: rjones at wfeca.net (Robert Jones)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 19:13:58 -0500
Subject: [TR] Changing from DOT 3 to DOT 5 Fluif
In-Reply-To: <591B4665160E483EA04B3318AB736255@DaveLaptop>
References: <c8369.3fecedf0.3eb9459b@cs.com>
	<591B4665160E483EA04B3318AB736255@DaveLaptop>
Message-ID: <89D76C50-ADAA-4945-AC53-6C8146A9FC2D@wfeca.net>

Dave

Are you thinking of going to silicone brake fluid?  It is very popular,
especially where a car isn't driven a lot.  However, the old english
manufacturers still warn against using it due to how it 'effects" the rubber
parts.  I have used it for years without a problem.  If you try to use it in
your clutch cylinders, from my experience you will find it very hard to bleed
and get the air out.

Bob
On May 6, 2013, at 6:30 PM, Dave Connitt wrote:

> Just wanted to pass on that when I recieved my clutch master cylinder from
The
> Roadster Factory, the box had a label that said "Use of synthetic hydralic
> fluid will void warranty". I was fully planning on using DOT5 fluid until I
> read the box. Later that week I called TRF to find out what the deal was
and
> the guy told me that they had a lot of warranty returns for brake parts
using
> synthetic fluid and the manufacturer started placing a warning label on the
> master cylinders.. I am about a month away from getting to bleeding the
brakes
> and clutch and still haven't decided which way I will go.
> Just sayin..
> Dave Connitt
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rjones at wfeca.net

From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Mon May  6 19:20:43 2013
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 21:20:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] Changing from DOT 3 to DOT 5 Fluif
In-Reply-To: <89D76C50-ADAA-4945-AC53-6C8146A9FC2D@wfeca.net>
References: <c8369.3fecedf0.3eb9459b@cs.com><591B4665160E483EA04B3318AB736255@DaveLaptop>
	<89D76C50-ADAA-4945-AC53-6C8146A9FC2D@wfeca.net>
Message-ID: <4798E234A9704131A738EFEDDB392DA6@UserTHINK>

Not true in my experience.

-----Original Message----- 
From: Robert Jones
Sent: Monday, May 06, 2013 8:13 PM
To: Dave Connitt
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Changing from DOT 3 to DOT 5 Fluif

Dave

Are you thinking of going to silicone brake fluid?  It is very popular,
especially where a car isn't driven a lot.  However, the old english
manufacturers still warn against using it due to how it 'effects" the rubber
parts.  I have used it for years without a problem.  If you try to use it in
your clutch cylinders, from my experience you will find it very hard to 
bleed
and get the air out.

Bob
On May 6, 2013, at 6:30 PM, Dave Connitt wrote:

> Just wanted to pass on that when I recieved my clutch master cylinder from
The
> Roadster Factory, the box had a label that said "Use of synthetic hydralic
> fluid will void warranty". I was fully planning on using DOT5 fluid until 
> I
> read the box. Later that week I called TRF to find out what the deal was
and
> the guy told me that they had a lot of warranty returns for brake parts
using
> synthetic fluid and the manufacturer started placing a warning label on 
> the
> master cylinders.. I am about a month away from getting to bleeding the
brakes
> and clutch and still haven't decided which way I will go.
> Just sayin..
> Dave Connitt
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rjones at wfeca.net

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jerryvv at roadrunner.com 

From dave at ranteer.com  Mon May  6 19:38:37 2013
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 20:38:37 -0500
Subject: [TR] Changing from DOT 3 to DOT 5 Fluif
In-Reply-To: <591B4665160E483EA04B3318AB736255@DaveLaptop>
References: <c8369.3fecedf0.3eb9459b@cs.com>
	<591B4665160E483EA04B3318AB736255@DaveLaptop>
Message-ID: <F96B5DDF49C644D2B7AC263EC398740A@Datsun>

I had a conversation with a moss employee about this very topic.  they do 
this because they want to prevent the common moron, the soon to be dpo, from 
just adding dot 5 to their system without cleansing it first.  there is, 
according to him, no reason not to use dot 5 in these if proper procedures 
are followed.

I will add my experience has been no issues in numerous vehicles using dot 5 
over at least a decade of use.

-----Original Message----- 
From: Dave Connitt
Sent: Monday, May 06, 2013 6:30 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Changing from DOT 3 to DOT 5 Fluif

Just wanted to pass on that when I recieved my clutch master cylinder from 
The
Roadster Factory, the box had a label that said "Use of synthetic hydralic
fluid will void warranty". I was fully planning on using DOT5 fluid until I
read the box. Later that week I called TRF to find out what the deal was and
the guy told me that they had a lot of warranty returns for brake parts 
using
synthetic fluid and the manufacturer started placing a warning label on the
master cylinders.. I am about a month away from getting to bleeding the 
brakes
and clutch and still haven't decided which way I will go.
Just sayin..
Dave Connitt 

From dave at ranteer.com  Mon May  6 19:30:52 2013
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 20:30:52 -0500
Subject: [TR] Changing from DOT 3 to DOT 5 Fluif
In-Reply-To: <4798E234A9704131A738EFEDDB392DA6@UserTHINK>
References: <c8369.3fecedf0.3eb9459b@cs.com><591B4665160E483EA04B3318AB736255@DaveLaptop><89D76C50-ADAA-4945-AC53-6C8146A9FC2D@wfeca.net>
	<4798E234A9704131A738EFEDDB392DA6@UserTHINK>
Message-ID: <04A97B922A394B5DACB159FA3D59643C@Datsun>

nor in mine.   in several cars.   be careful how  you pour it in - I like to 
use a long funnel with its bottom below surface level.  be careful not to 
create bubbles as you add it and you will be fine.

-----Original Message----- 
From: Jerry Van Vlack
Sent: Monday, May 06, 2013 8:20 PM
To: Dave Connitt
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Changing from DOT 3 to DOT 5 Fluif

Not true in my experience.

-----Original Message----- 
From: Robert Jones
Sent: Monday, May 06, 2013 8:13 PM
To: Dave Connitt
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Changing from DOT 3 to DOT 5 Fluif

Dave

Are you thinking of going to silicone brake fluid?  It is very popular,
especially where a car isn't driven a lot.  However, the old english
manufacturers still warn against using it due to how it 'effects" the rubber
parts.  I have used it for years without a problem.  If you try to use it in
your clutch cylinders, from my experience you will find it very hard to
bleed
and get the air out. 

From dave at ranteer.com  Mon May  6 19:45:06 2013
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 20:45:06 -0500
Subject: [TR] death rattle???
Message-ID: <98F2B93CAF214508B82CEFB2730AD264@Datsun>

I know, I may be hopelessly naive here.

I picked up a tr3b about a month ago and just tonight finally got it to
catch.

a most horrible sound.  it was that sound like your starter makes when you try
to start the car and its already running.

it only made that noise when the car started to catch, or in this case did
catch and ran for a few seconds on the diet of starter fluid sprayed down its
throat.  gas line is disconnected.  and clogged.  and fuel pump probably
shot.

Ibm guessing bearings?

Ibm going to ask this question mostly because I simply donbt know.  the
starter is brand new, right out of the box.  old starter was decimated
according to the repair guy.

I know the solenoid tells the starter when to engage.  does it also tell the
starter when to disengage?  is it possible the solenoid, which is that thing
with the button that sits up on the firewall, is not telling the starter to
disengage, and that is the cause of the horrible noise?  should I replace it?

just wanted to ask.

From mmarr at notwires.com  Mon May  6 20:02:46 2013
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 21:02:46 -0500
Subject: [TR] death rattle???
In-Reply-To: <98F2B93CAF214508B82CEFB2730AD264@Datsun>
References: <98F2B93CAF214508B82CEFB2730AD264@Datsun>
Message-ID: <049501ce4ac6$f8706aa0$e9513fe0$@com>

What does "decimated" mean, in regards to the starter?  I would definitely
take a look at the ring gear on the flywheel.  You may have some worn or
broken teeth.

Also, the solenoid just starts the starter motor turning.  It will turn as
long as you hold the key in the "start" position.  As soon as you release
the key, the starter will stop turning and the pinion will kick out of
engagement with the ring gear.  If the pinion assembly is worn, (Item 58 on
page 83 of the Spring/Summer 2012 Moss Catalog) the pinion could stick in
engagement with the ring gear, giving the "start"-ling noise that you
describe.

>
> Ibm going to ask this question mostly because I simply donbt know.
> the starter is brand new, right out of the box.  old starter was
> decimated according to the repair guy.
>
 Mike

From spamiam at comcast.net  Tue May  7 04:33:46 2013
From: spamiam at comcast.net (Anthony Rhodes)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 06:33:46 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tr4a miata seats
In-Reply-To: <000001ce4acb$fa96dad0$efc49070$@rr.com>
References: <228FD551A1764CEFBF72B7CFB64E254C@DaveLaptop>
	<1193396762.1736095.1367845817967.JavaMail.root@sz0135a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<000001ce4acb$fa96dad0$efc49070$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <43A537DE-9499-4E5C-A438-099356EBA704@comcast.net>

The Patton adapters allow for the rear of the seats to be slid inward. They
pivot around the inner front mounting point.

The seats just barely clear the top frame on the drivers side. There is room
for another 1/2" of inward travel at the rear of both seats. And the fronts
seem about right.

Two of the mounts are quite hard to tighten for the 7/16" bolt to the floor
because the bolt head is close to surrounding metal and a little covered by
the miata track above

As my carpet compresses, I may be able to gain a little more inward travel at
the rear. Also a thin aluminum plate shim under the two outer adapters on the
drivers side would tilt the top inward a bit. A 1/8" shim would probably do
it

The adapters were easy to use. My seats are 1997's and it would appear that
there was a change in the track design on one rail on each side  There was a
stop added to the rear of one track. This made them add a strengthening roll
to the edge of the metal. I did not cut off the stops, but I did  have to
grind down the roll so the adapter would sit properly on the rail. Not a
problem. It took a couple of minutes for each side.


-Tony

Sent from my iPhone

On May 6, 2013, at 10:38 PM, "John & Pat Donnelly" <pdonnel1 at san.rr.com>
wrote:

> I bought Uncle Jack's original Miata conversion kit many years ago, but the
> seats hit the B-post when pushing the seat back and limit travel. I
continue
> to use my homemade aluminum plate conversion.
> Does the Patton adapters have this problem?

From peterara at msn.com  Tue May  7 05:49:54 2013
From: peterara at msn.com (Peter Arakelian)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 04:49:54 -0700
Subject: [TR] Changing from DOT 3 to DOT 5 Fluif
Message-ID: <COL127-DS24B5987C0CFA193824A8AAC1BA0@phx.gbl>

>"the box had a label that said "Use of synthetic hydralic
fluid will void warranty".

The labels I usually see call out voiding if silicone brake fluid is used.
I spoke with TRW (current owner of Girling brand) tech engineer about a
warning label they put on about silicone brake fluid.  They put this on
because cylinders are made to original spec and have not been tested for use
with silicone brake fluid.  Therefore use of silicone brake fluid voids the
warranty.
As has been said, all brake fluid is synthetic - Castrol LMA has always been
synthetic, yet it the standard brake fluid.

Peter Arakelian - '71 TR6, Daily Driver

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue May  7 05:56:05 2013
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 07:56:05 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Changing from DOT 3 to DOT 5 Fluif
Message-ID: <c6851.eaf667e.3eba45d5@cs.com>

If we're looking for testimonials, I switched the TR6 to DOT5 in 1996 and 
other than the occasional need to rebleed I have had no issues. But that was 
freshly rebuilt/renewed system.  I recommend it highly for fresh systems.  
But keep in mind that if you just change fluid on an old, about to fail 
system it will still be old and about to fail.

My philosophy is that brakes are no place for short cuts.  Make sure they 
are working properly.

Dave

In a message dated 5/6/2013 8:46:04 PM Central Daylight Time, 
dave at ranteer.com writes: 
> I will add my experience has been no issues in numerous vehicles using 
> dot 5 
> over at least a decade of use.

From tr6.guy at verizon.net  Tue May  7 06:32:43 2013
From: tr6.guy at verizon.net (Gary Klein)
Date: Tue, 07 May 2013 08:32:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] Changing from DOT 3 to DOT 5 Fluif
Message-ID: <010601ce4b1e$f9104c20$eb30e460$@guy@verizon.net>

Dave,

I'd read about a trick to fill the reservoirs that greatly reduces bubbles
and I've used it when servicing my TR6 with success.  Take a big
screwdriver and place the tip in the MC reservoir and let it rest on the
bottom.  Then place the DOT 5 brake fluid bottle's opening against the
screwdriver and very gently tip the bottle and so the fluid makes contact
and let it run slowly down the screwdriver.  No bubbles.  Just do it
slowly.

Gary
'80 TR8 w/ A/C
'75 TR6
Severn, MD
Digest


> -----Original Message----- 
> 
> Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 20:30:52 -0500
> From: "Dave" <dave at ranteer.com>
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] Changing from DOT 3 to DOT 5 Fluif
>
> nor in mine.   in several cars.   be careful how  you pour it in - I like
to 
> use a long funnel with its bottom below surface level.  be careful not to

> create bubbles as you add it and you will be fine.

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue May  7 06:35:47 2013
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 08:35:47 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tr4a miata seats
In-Reply-To: <43A537DE-9499-4E5C-A438-099356EBA704@comcast.net>
References: <228FD551A1764CEFBF72B7CFB64E254C@DaveLaptop><1193396762.1736095.1367845817967.JavaMail.root@sz0135a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net><000001ce4acb$fa96dad0$efc49070$@rr.com>
	<43A537DE-9499-4E5C-A438-099356EBA704@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <960C3F50E6FD415D93C0A10657BDA2E7@BobDell>

I made my own adapters, had a set of the ARE adapters and then nagged Rick 
Patton for two years to come up with a creative, easy to use set of 
brackets. If you go through here 
(http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/PattonMiataBrackets.htm) you'll see the 
whole development process.

The Miata seats are wide but with these brackets, they will slide past the B 
pillars.............rubbing against them the whole way. It's not a bracket 
issue but a seat width issue.

Tony mentions a seat rail change to his '97 seats that added a stop on one 
of the tracks. My seats are from a '93 and also have that stop and I didn't 
have to do any grinding to get the rail to clear the stop. I guess it 
depends on how your seats were treated during it's Miata life. I also spent 
a lot of time in the Miata.net Forum getting specs on the various year seats 
and was told that the surfboard style seat rails stayed the same from the 
beginning to 1997 and were totally interchangeable over those years.

It takes some time to get the brackets & seats all lined up and installed 
but once done, you can remove or install the seats with four bolts in about 
5 minutes each. It's so easy that I take the seats out the vacuum under 
them!

Bob


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/

1975 TR6 modified with:
-Throttle Body Injection
-Toyota 5 Speed
-Nissan Differential
-AAW Wire Harness
-CVJs... and more


-----Original Message----- 
From: Anthony Rhodes
Sent: Tuesday, May 07, 2013 6:33 AM
To: John & Pat Donnelly
Cc: Triumphs List
Subject: Re: [TR] Tr4a miata seats

The Patton adapters allow for the rear of the seats to be slid inward. They
pivot around the inner front mounting point.

The seats just barely clear the top frame on the drivers side. There is room
for another 1/2" of inward travel at the rear of both seats. And the fronts
seem about right.

Two of the mounts are quite hard to tighten for the 7/16" bolt to the floor
because the bolt head is close to surrounding metal and a little covered by
the miata track above

As my carpet compresses, I may be able to gain a little more inward travel 
at
the rear. Also a thin aluminum plate shim under the two outer adapters on 
the
drivers side would tilt the top inward a bit. A 1/8" shim would probably do
it

The adapters were easy to use. My seats are 1997's and it would appear that
there was a change in the track design on one rail on each side  There was a
stop added to the rear of one track. This made them add a strengthening roll
to the edge of the metal. I did not cut off the stops, but I did  have to
grind down the roll so the adapter would sit properly on the rail. Not a
problem. It took a couple of minutes for each side.

From tr6.guy at verizon.net  Tue May  7 07:41:56 2013
From: tr6.guy at verizon.net (Gary Klein)
Date: Tue, 07 May 2013 09:41:56 -0400
Subject: [TR] Changing from DOT 3 to DOT 5 Fluif
Message-ID: <011901ce4b28$a482e5a0$ed88b0e0$@guy@verizon.net>

I should have added that when bleeding the system, avoid pumping the pedal
too vigorously!  Just do all the normal bleeding steps gently and slowly.
Doing so will create very few bubbles.

Gary
'80 TR8 w/ A/C
'75 TR6
Severn, MD
Digest

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gary Klein [mailto:tr6.guy at verizon.net] 
> Sent: Tuesday, May 7, 2013 8:33 AM
> To: 'triumphs at autox.team.net'
> Cc: 'dave at ranteer.com'
> Subject: Re: [TR] Changing from DOT 3 to DOT 5 Fluif
>
> Dave,
>
> I'd read about a trick to fill the reservoirs that greatly reduces
bubbles and I've used
> it when servicing my TR6 with > > > success.  Take a big screwdriver and
place the 
> tip in the MC reservoir and let it rest on the bottom.  Then place the
DOT 5 brake 
> fluid bottle's opening against the screwdriver and very gently tip the
bottle and so the
> fluid makes contact and let it run slowly down the screwdriver.  No
bubbles.  Just d
> do it slowly.
>
> Gary
> '80 TR8 w/ A/C
> '75 TR6
> Severn, MD
> Digest

From tr6.guy at verizon.net  Tue May  7 07:43:25 2013
From: tr6.guy at verizon.net (Gary Klein)
Date: Tue, 07 May 2013 09:43:25 -0400
Subject: [TR] Changing from DOT 3 to DOT 5 Fluif
In-Reply-To: <E976838419FF4C42A7BDF33350BA33FF@bboffice>
References: <010601ce4b1e$f9104c20$eb30e460$@guy@verizon.net>
	<E976838419FF4C42A7BDF33350BA33FF@bboffice>
Message-ID: <011a01ce4b28$d958e5e0$8c0ab1a0$@guy@verizon.net>

Come to think of it, with the hours spent in bars during my youth, I should
have figured it out myself.

Gary

-----Original Message-----
From: wbeech at flash.net [mailto:wbeech at flash.net] 
Sent: Tuesday, May 7, 2013 9:31 AM
To: 'Gary Klein'; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] Changing from DOT 3 to DOT 5 Fluif

Hmmm.... Sounds like an old bartenders trick.


Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Even if you are on the right track, you'll get run over if you just sit
there"  Will Rodgers

 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary Klein
Sent: Tuesday, May 07, 2013 7:33 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Changing from DOT 3 to DOT 5 Fluif

Dave,

I'd read about a trick to fill the reservoirs that greatly reduces bubbles
and I've used it when servicing my TR6 with success.  Take a big
screwdriver and place the tip in the MC reservoir and let it rest on the
bottom.  Then place the DOT 5 brake fluid bottle's opening against the
screwdriver and very gently tip the bottle and so the fluid makes contact
and let it run slowly down the screwdriver.  No bubbles.  Just do it
slowly.

Gary
'80 TR8 w/ A/C
'75 TR6
Severn, MD
Digest


> -----Original Message-----
> 
> Date: Mon, 6 May 2013 20:30:52 -0500
> From: "Dave" <dave at ranteer.com>
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] Changing from DOT 3 to DOT 5 Fluif
>
> nor in mine.   in several cars.   be careful how  you pour it in - I like
to 
> use a long funnel with its bottom below surface level.  be careful not 
> to

> create bubbles as you add it and you will be fine.

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From pethier at comcast.net  Tue May  7 08:23:50 2013
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 14:23:50 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Changing from DOT 3 to DOT 5 Fluif
In-Reply-To: <c6851.eaf667e.3eba45d5@cs.com>
Message-ID: <1827390646.718133.1367936630240.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

----- Original Message -----
> From: Dave1massey at cs.com
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Tuesday, May 7, 2013 6:56:05 AM
> Subject: Re: [TR] Changing from DOT 3 to DOT 5 Fluif
> If we're looking for testimonials, I switched the TR6 to DOT5 in 1996
> and
> other than the occasional need to rebleed I have had no issues. But
> that was
> freshly rebuilt/renewed system. I recommend it highly for fresh
> systems.
> But keep in mind that if you just change fluid on an old, about to
> fail
> system it will still be old and about to fail.
> 
> My philosophy is that brakes are no place for short cuts. Make sure
> they
> are working properly.
> 
> Dave

Don't forget to mark the MC reservoir.  When I found out that uncle jack had been given the silicone when the system was rebuilt, I reached for my labelmaker.

No trouble with the silicone so far.  I tried to go silicone in an MG Midget autocross car, and things did not go well.  I could never get the tiny bubbles out.  But that car did not have the proper full rebuilt you should do with a silicone conversion.

All my other cars run Castrol GT/LMA and whatever the dealer just put in the Lotus.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier at comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Tue May  7 09:07:36 2013
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 08:07:36 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Changing from DOT 3 to DOT 5 Fluif
In-Reply-To: <04A97B922A394B5DACB159FA3D59643C@Datsun>
References: <c8369.3fecedf0.3eb9459b@cs.com><591B4665160E483EA04B3318AB736255@DaveLaptop><89D76C50-ADAA-4945-AC53-6C8146A9FC2D@wfeca.net>
	<4798E234A9704131A738EFEDDB392DA6@UserTHINK>
	<04A97B922A394B5DACB159FA3D59643C@Datsun>
Message-ID: <1367939256.92704.YahooMailNeo@web120006.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

i use DOT5 in my TR3 and have done for about 4 years now.
the only thing i
find problematic is my hydraulic brake switch.
they only last 6 to 9 months.
i
have tried them from roadster factory and moss with the same short lived life.
i can only assume its the DOT5 that eats the rubber, but i have no proof of
that.
and i will continue to use DOT5.
 
Frank 

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Tue May  7 09:19:11 2013
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 08:19:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] rear oil seal TR3
Message-ID: <1367939951.21680.YahooMailNeo@web120005.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

would love to hear testimony from those who have used the "new" rear oil seal for the TR3 motors.
the one that does not require the crank be machined.
Frank

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Tue May  7 09:21:01 2013
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Tue, 07 May 2013 08:21:01 -0700
Subject: [TR] Changing from DOT 3 to DOT 5 Fluif
In-Reply-To: <1367939256.92704.YahooMailNeo@web120006.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <c8369.3fecedf0.3eb9459b@cs.com><591B4665160E483EA04B3318AB736255@DaveLaptop><89D76C50-ADAA-4945-AC53-6C8146A9FC2D@wfeca.net>
	<4798E234A9704131A738EFEDDB392DA6@UserTHINK>
	<04A97B922A394B5DACB159FA3D59643C@Datsun>
	<1367939256.92704.YahooMailNeo@web120006.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <51891BDD.4000104@gmail.com>

On 5/7/13 8:07 AM, Frank Fisher wrote:
> i use DOT5 in my TR3 and have done for about 4 years now.
> the only thing i
> find problematic is my hydraulic brake switch.
> they only last 6 to 9 months.
> i
> have tried them from roadster factory and moss with the same short lived life.
> i can only assume its the DOT5 that eats the rubber, but i have no proof of
> that.
>
The brake light switch failure rate is way too high.  I loose one as 
often as you do and have been using DOT5 for about 25 years now (Gee 
that long??).  I replaced one just yesterday.   I keep a spare and a 
7/8th wrench in the boot.

I always thought it failed from the heat as my brake light switch is 
mounted about 2 inches from the exhaust down pipe.  Next time the engine 
comes out I intend to relocate the brake light switch towards the front 
of the engine bay away from the exhaust system.

TeriAnn

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue May  7 09:30:58 2013
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 11:30:58 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Changing from DOT 3 to DOT 5 Fluif
Message-ID: <c5819.50ddcce1.3eba7832@cs.com>

Bubbles will dissipate so long as you don't pump them into the system.  The 
trick is if you dump some fluid into the reservoir and get bubbles, walk 
away.  Comeback a day later and finish up.  

That's hard to do on race day, however.

Dave

In a message dated 5/7/2013 9:23:51 AM Central Daylight Time, 
pethier at comcast.net writes: 
> No trouble with the silicone so far.  I tried to go silicone in an MG 
> Midget autocross car, and things did not go well.  I could never get the tiny 
> bubbles out.  But that car did not have the proper full rebuilt you should 
> do with a silicone conversion.

From spook01 at comcast.net  Tue May  7 09:33:54 2013
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Tue, 07 May 2013 10:33:54 -0500
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?rear_oil_seal_TR3?=
Message-ID: <mailman.9.1367940972.1861.triumphs@autox.team.net>

Me, too.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Frank Fisher" <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] rear oil seal TR3
Date: Tue, May 7, 2013 10:19


would love to hear testimony from those who have used the "new" rear oil seal for the TR3 motors.
the one that does not require the crank be machined.
Frank

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue May  7 09:35:00 2013
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 11:35:00 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Changing from DOT 3 to DOT 5 Fluif
Message-ID: <c5a19.55861277.3eba7924@cs.com>

One trick (done by my DPO) is to mount a pedal actuated switch from an MGB 
in place of the stop bolt on the pedal box.  Buy some green and green/purple 
wire to match the colors when you wire it up.

Dave

In a message dated 5/7/2013 10:07:44 AM Central Daylight Time, 
yellowtr3 at yahoo.com writes: 
> i use DOT5 in my TR3 and have done for about 4 years now.
> the only thing i
> find problematic is my hydraulic brake switch.
> they only last 6 to 9 months.
> i
> have tried them from roadster factory and moss with the same short lived 
> life.
> i can only assume its the DOT5 that eats the rubber, but i have no proof 
> of
> that.
> and i will continue to use DOT5.

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Tue May  7 09:41:12 2013
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Tue, 07 May 2013 11:41:12 -0400
Subject: [TR] Changing from DOT 3 to DOT 5 Fluif
In-Reply-To: <51891BDD.4000104@gmail.com>
References: <c8369.3fecedf0.3eb9459b@cs.com><591B4665160E483EA04B3318AB736255@DaveLaptop><89D76C50-ADAA-4945-AC53-6C8146A9FC2D@wfeca.net>
	<4798E234A9704131A738EFEDDB392DA6@UserTHINK>
	<04A97B922A394B5DACB159FA3D59643C@Datsun>
	<1367939256.92704.YahooMailNeo@web120006.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<51891BDD.4000104@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <51892098.2090909@adelphia.net>

All,

I use DOT 3 in the 3 and DOT 5 in the 4 and they both have their 
original brake light switches. I have had the 3 for over 30 years and 
the 4 is in its 6th season with the DOT 5.

Maybe it is the replacement switches that are the problem?

Bob

On 05/07/2013 11:21 AM, TeriAnn J. Wakeman wrote:
> On 5/7/13 8:07 AM, Frank Fisher wrote:
>> i use DOT5 in my TR3 and have done for about 4 years now.
>> the only thing i
>> find problematic is my hydraulic brake switch.
>> they only last 6 to 9 months.
>> i
>> have tried them from roadster factory and moss with the same short 
>> lived life.
>> i can only assume its the DOT5 that eats the rubber, but i have no 
>> proof of
>> that.
>>
> The brake light switch failure rate is way too high.  I loose one as 
> often as you do and have been using DOT5 for about 25 years now (Gee 
> that long??).  I replaced one just yesterday.   I keep a spare and a 
> 7/8th wrench in the boot.
>
> I always thought it failed from the heat as my brake light switch is 
> mounted about 2 inches from the exhaust down pipe.  Next time the 
> engine comes out I intend to relocate the brake light switch towards 
> the front of the engine bay away from the exhaust system.
>
> TeriAnn
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr at adelphia.net

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Tue May  7 09:58:42 2013
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl-TR)
Date: Tue, 07 May 2013 11:58:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] Changing from DOT 3 to DOT 5 Fluif
In-Reply-To: <c5a19.55861277.3eba7924@cs.com>
References: <c5a19.55861277.3eba7924@cs.com>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPoKQPTb8BxDhdc+Y5YHXJqigQAAEAAAAM0EojT+h4pCtvt90/Q4/TIBAAAAAA==@verizon.net>

The problem with that is you have to completely depress the pedal for the
lights to activate.   

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave1massey at cs.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 07, 2013 11:35 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Changing from DOT 3 to DOT 5 Fluif

One trick (done by my DPO) is to mount a pedal actuated switch from an MGB
in place of the stop bolt on the pedal box.  Buy some green and green/purple
wire to match the colors when you wire it up.

Dave

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Tue May  7 10:00:59 2013
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 16:00:59 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] 'O' ring material
Message-ID: <1232637164.550550.1367942459158.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

List, 



What is the recommended for 'O' rings exposed to fuels with ethanol content? 



Thanks, 



Ed Woods 

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Tue May  7 10:08:45 2013
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 09:08:45 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] street cam for TR3
Message-ID: <1367942925.76986.YahooMailNeo@web120002.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

love to hear testament on a good street cam for the TR3
who gave you good info on timing and setup as well as performance
thanks
Frank

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Tue May  7 10:10:23 2013
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 09:10:23 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Changing from DOT 3 to DOT 5 Fluif
In-Reply-To: <51892098.2090909@adelphia.net>
References: <c8369.3fecedf0.3eb9459b@cs.com><591B4665160E483EA04B3318AB736255@DaveLaptop><89D76C50-ADAA-4945-AC53-6C8146A9FC2D@wfeca.net>
	<4798E234A9704131A738EFEDDB392DA6@UserTHINK>
	<04A97B922A394B5DACB159FA3D59643C@Datsun>
	<1367939256.92704.YahooMailNeo@web120006.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<51891BDD.4000104@gmail.com> <51892098.2090909@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <1367943023.74765.YahooMailNeo@web120002.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

yes maybe
i recall the original lasted the longest. but it was 50 years old so
i cant blame anything buy maybe time for that failure!
 
 

From: Bob Labuz
<yellowtr at adelphia.net>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Tuesday, May 7,
2013 8:41 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Changing from DOT 3 to DOT 5 Fluif


All,

I
use DOT 3 in the 3 and DOT 5 in the 4 and they both have their 
original brake
light switches. I have had the 3 for over 30 years and 
the 4 is in its 6th
season with the DOT 5.

Maybe it is the replacement switches that are the
problem?

Bob

On 05/07/2013 11:21 AM, TeriAnn J. Wakeman wrote:
> On 5/7/13
8:07 AM, Frank Fisher wrote:
>> i use DOT5 in my TR3 and have done for about 4
years now.
>> the only thing i
>> find problematic is my hydraulic brake
switch.
>> they only last 6 to 9 months.
>> i
>> have tried them from roadster
factory and moss with the same short 
>> lived life.
>> i can only assume its
the DOT5 that eats the rubber, but i have no 
>> proof of
>> that.
>>
> The
brake light switch failure rate is way too high.  I loose one as 
> often as
you do and have been using DOT5 for about 25 years now (Gee 
> that long??). 
I replaced one just yesterday.  I keep a spare and a 
> 7/8th wrench in the
boot.
>
> I always thought it failed from the heat as my brake light switch is
> mounted about 2 inches from the exhaust down pipe.  Next time the 
> engine
comes out I intend to relocate the brake light switch towards 
> the front of
the engine bay away from the exhaust system.
>
> TeriAnn
>
> **
triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr at adelphia.net

**
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From spook01 at comcast.net  Tue May  7 10:11:00 2013
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Tue, 07 May 2013 11:11:00 -0500
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Changing_from_DOT_3_to_DOT_5_Fluif?=
Message-ID: <mailman.10.1367943199.1861.triumphs@autox.team.net>

It's the switch.  The inferior switches from the East fail.  The US ones don't.
Also, used or old vacuum brake boosters with organic rubber have failed.
Not a problem with tr's, but just FYI.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Bob Labuz" <yellowtr at adelphia.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Changing from DOT 3 to DOT 5 Fluif
Date: Tue, May 7, 2013 10:41


All,

I use DOT 3 in the 3 and DOT 5 in the 4 and they both have their original brake light switches. I have had the 3 for over 30 years and the 4 is in its 6th season with the DOT 5.

Maybe it is the replacement switches that are the problem?

Bob

On 05/07/2013 11:21 AM, TeriAnn J. Wakeman wrote:
> On 5/7/13 8:07 AM, Frank Fisher wrote:
>> i use DOT5 in my TR3 and have done for about 4 years now.
>> the only thing i
>> find problematic is my hydraulic brake switch.
>> they only last 6 to 9 months.
>> i
>> have tried them from roadster factory and moss with the same short >> lived life.
>> i can only assume its the DOT5 that eats the rubber, but i have no >> proof of
>> that.
>>
> The brake light switch failure rate is way too high.  I loose one as > often as you do and have been using DOT5 for about 25 years now (Gee > that long??).  I replaced one just yesterday.   I keep a spare and a > 7/8th wrench in the boot.
>
> I always thought it failed from the heat as my brake light switch is > mounted about 2 inches from the exhaust down pipe.  Next time the > engine comes out I intend to relocate the brake light switch towards > the front of the engine bay away from the exhaust system.
>
> TeriAnn
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr at adelphia.net

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From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Tue May  7 10:12:32 2013
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl-TR)
Date: Tue, 07 May 2013 12:12:32 -0400
Subject: [TR] temp send unit
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPoKQPTb8BxDhdc+Y5YHXJrCgAAAEAAAACAhgMpQUKtKrLMbHNNHX/sBAAAAAA==@verizon.net>

Does anyone know the thread size of the temp send unit in a TR3?   I need to
plug the hole or I'll have a mess when I start the engine again this
weekend.

Thanks

C

 

 

Carl

1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO

 <http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/> http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 

Still being restored - but 2013 looks like the year..

Tampa, FL

From tr3abobm77 at frontier.com  Tue May  7 10:23:51 2013
From: tr3abobm77 at frontier.com (tr3abobm77 at frontier.com)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 09:23:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] rear oil seal TR3
In-Reply-To: <1367939951.21680.YahooMailNeo@web120005.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1367939951.21680.YahooMailNeo@web120005.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1367943831.54664.YahooMailNeo@web142606.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

I did mine two years ago. I bought the seal from Joe Alexander as soon as I found out he was selling the Marx seal. I probably have close to 1000 miles on it now and I am not getting oil spots on the floor any more. Since I have a lathe I machined my old scroll seal halves myself to accept the new seal. I don't know if my engine is unique but I find the centering tools totally usless as once you snug down the bearing cap the seal can't move in any direction anyway so it is basically self centering. I had to grind the ends of the flywheel bolts slightly to make sure they didn't hit the seal. So far I am satisfied and since it is totally reversible I am out only the cost of the seal if it fails.

Bob Maassel
tr3abobm77 at frontier.com
1959 TR3A
 

________________________________
 From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" <triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Tuesday, May 7, 2013 11:19 AM
Subject: [TR] rear oil seal TR3
  

would love to hear testimony from those who have used the "new" rear oil seal for the TR3 motors.
the one that does not require the crank be machined.
Frank

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Tue May  7 10:58:04 2013
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 09:58:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] rear oil seal TR3
In-Reply-To: <1367943831.54664.YahooMailNeo@web142606.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1367939951.21680.YahooMailNeo@web120005.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<1367943831.54664.YahooMailNeo@web142606.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1367945884.39317.YahooMailNeo@web120002.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Bob
so the seal is not a kit?
i do have some accesses to a machine shop, but
there is work to be done and therefore its not a "bolt on kit" ????
 
Frank
From: "tr3abobm77 at frontier.com" <tr3abobm77 at frontier.com>
To: Frank Fisher
<yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>; "triumphs at autox.team.net" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 7, 2013 9:23 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] rear oil seal TR3



I
did mine two years ago. I bought the seal from Joe Alexander as soon as I
found out he was selling the Marx seal. I probably have close to 1000 miles on
it now and I am not getting oil spots on the floor any more. Since I have a
lathe I machined my old scroll seal halves myself to accept the new seal. I
don't know if my engine is unique but I find the centering tools totally
usless as once you snug down the bearing cap the seal can't move in any
direction anyway so it is basically self centering. I had to grind the ends of
the flywheel bolts slightly to make sure they didn't hit the seal. So far I am
satisfied and since it is totally reversible I am out only the cost of the
seal if it fails.
Bob Maassel
tr3abobm77 at frontier.com
1959 TR3A

From: Frank
Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs at autox.team.net"
<triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Tuesday, May 7, 2013 11:19 AM
Subject: [TR]
rear oil seal TR3


would love to hear testimony from those who have used the
"new" rear oil seal for the TR3 motors.
the one that does not require the
crank be machined.
Frank

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From wbeech at flash.net  Tue May  7 11:16:32 2013
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 12:16:32 -0500
Subject: [TR] Changing from DOT 3 to DOT 5 Fluif
In-Reply-To: <51891BDD.4000104@gmail.com>
References: <c8369.3fecedf0.3eb9459b@cs.com><591B4665160E483EA04B3318AB736255@DaveLaptop><89D76C50-ADAA-4945-AC53-6C8146A9FC2D@wfeca.net><4798E234A9704131A738EFEDDB392DA6@UserTHINK><04A97B922A394B5DACB159FA3D59643C@Datsun><1367939256.92704.YahooMailNeo@web120006.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<51891BDD.4000104@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <505242C0B6794FA79172DF9D8B12F260@bboffice>

I have had DOT5 in TS30766 from day one in Sept 2008 and never a problem
with the brake light switch.  I think it is the one that came with the car
when I got it, pre-resto, in 2006.

Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Even if you are on the right track, you'll get run over if you just sit
there"  Will Rodgers

 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TeriAnn J. Wakeman
Sent: Tuesday, May 07, 2013 10:21 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Changing from DOT 3 to DOT 5 Fluif

On 5/7/13 8:07 AM, Frank Fisher wrote:
> i use DOT5 in my TR3 and have done for about 4 years now.
> the only thing i
> find problematic is my hydraulic brake switch.
> they only last 6 to 9 months.
> i
> have tried them from roadster factory and moss with the same short lived
life.
> i can only assume its the DOT5 that eats the rubber, but i have no 
> proof of that.
>
The brake light switch failure rate is way too high.  I loose one as often
as you do and have been using DOT5 for about 25 years now (Gee 
that long??).  I replaced one just yesterday.   I keep a spare and a 
7/8th wrench in the boot.

I always thought it failed from the heat as my brake light switch is mounted
about 2 inches from the exhaust down pipe.  Next time the engine comes out I
intend to relocate the brake light switch towards the front of the engine
bay away from the exhaust system.

TeriAnn

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From tr6.guy at verizon.net  Tue May  7 11:28:57 2013
From: tr6.guy at verizon.net (Gary Klein)
Date: Tue, 07 May 2013 13:28:57 -0400
Subject: [TR] 'O' ring material
Message-ID: <012e01ce4b48$5b151580$113f4080$@guy@verizon.net>

Ed,

 

Use O-rings made of Viton.  You can buy small quantities from Marco Rubber.

 

Gary

'80 TR8 w/ A/C

'75 TR6

Severn, MD

Digest

 

----------------------------

> Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 16:00:59 +0000 (UTC)

> From: fogbro1 at comcast.net

> To: triumph list <triumphs at autox.team.net>

> Subject: [TR] 'O' ring material

>              

> List, 

> 

> What is the recommended for 'O' rings exposed to fuels with ethanol
content? 

> 

> Thanks, 

> 

> Ed Woods 

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue May  7 11:55:42 2013
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 13:55:42 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Changing from DOT 3 to DOT 5 Fluif
Message-ID: <2cbf2.a9efb8.3eba9a1d@cs.com>

Not at all.  The switch activates as soon as the pedal moves off the stop.  
Just like anything with a dual braking circuit.

Dave

In a message dated 5/7/2013 10:58:56 AM Central Daylight Time, 
cfmtr3a at verizon.net writes: 
> The problem with that is you have to completely depress the pedal for the
> lights to activate.   
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave1massey at cs.com
> Sent: Tuesday, May 07, 2013 11:35 AM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] Changing from DOT 3 to DOT 5 Fluif
> 
> One trick (done by my DPO) is to mount a pedal actuated switch from an MGB
> in place of the stop bolt on the pedal box.  Buy some green and 
> green/purple
> wire to match the colors when you wire it up.

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Tue May  7 12:04:23 2013
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 11:04:23 -0700
Subject: [TR] 'O' ring material
In-Reply-To: <1232637164.550550.1367942459158.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1232637164.550550.1367942459158.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bFJaMgdmkttW2kAOHHau582JdhukYZqyrq9vP5q33_9vA@mail.gmail.com>

I have been using O-rings made of  Buna-nitrile (Buna-N) from Ace Hardware
in my (ZS) carbs and they have not leaked or otherwise failed.

Just my experience, should not be taken as Gospel.

Geo


On Tue, May 7, 2013 at 9:00 AM, <fogbro1 at comcast.net> wrote:

> What is the recommended for 'O' rings exposed to fuels with ethanol
> content?

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue May  7 12:18:11 2013
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 14:18:11 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] 'O' ring material
Message-ID: <2d643.19fde30c.3eba9f63@cs.com>

According to McMaster Carr:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#about-o-ring-materials/=mnd19n

Viton is Excellent for gasoline but poor for alcohol so with more and more 
ethanol being added to the fuel this may not be a good choice.  Neoprene is 
only fair with gasoline but good with alcohol.  Polyurethane is good with 
both but rates poor for compression set.  It looks like flurosilicone is the 
best choice.  If you can find any.

Dave

In a message dated 5/7/2013 11:01:25 AM Central Daylight Time, 
fogbro1 at comcast.net writes: 
> What is the recommended for 'O' rings exposed to fuels with ethanol 
> content? 

From tr3a.60 at gmail.com  Tue May  7 13:35:28 2013
From: tr3a.60 at gmail.com (John Wise)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 15:35:28 -0400
Subject: [TR] Changing from DOT 3 to DOT 5 Fluif
In-Reply-To: <505242C0B6794FA79172DF9D8B12F260@bboffice>
References: <c8369.3fecedf0.3eb9459b@cs.com><591B4665160E483EA04B3318AB736255@DaveLaptop><89D76C50-ADAA-4945-AC53-6C8146A9FC2D@wfeca.net><4798E234A9704131A738EFEDDB392DA6@UserTHINK><04A97B922A394B5DACB159FA3D59643C@Datsun><1367939256.92704.YahooMailNeo@web120006.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<51891BDD.4000104@gmail.com>
	<505242C0B6794FA79172DF9D8B12F260@bboffice>
Message-ID: <5E413586-1543-4A2E-B33D-3E2550BDF197@gmail.com>

I also have had DOT5 in my 60 TR3A since 2006 with no problems of any kind. 

On  7 May, 2013, at 1:16 PM, <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:

> I have had DOT5 in TS30766 from day one in Sept 2008 and never a problem
> with the brake light switch.  I think it is the one that came with the car
> when I got it, pre-resto, in 2006.

John 

John Wise
Ormond Beach, FL

1960 TR3A
http://wisegroupllc.org/_/TR3A.html

1977 Porsche 911S ('86 3.2 engine)
http://wisegroupllc.org/_/Porsche.html

From elliottr at rmi.net  Tue May  7 13:39:20 2013
From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 14:39:20 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Subject: [TR] Changing from DOT 3 to DOT 5 Fluif
Message-ID: <6923802.1367955561438.JavaMail.root@elwamui-royal.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Speaking of marking them - silicone brake fluid used to come with label to mark the reservoir.  Are those labels available anywhere anymore?  Or is the best option a marker?

Roger Elliott


When I found out that uncle jack had been given the silicone when the system was rebuilt, I reached for my labelmaker.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue May  7 15:02:31 2013
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 21:02:31 +0000
Subject: [TR] Changing from DOT 3 to DOT 5 Fluif
In-Reply-To: <1367943023.74765.YahooMailNeo@web120002.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20130507210231.MDU10.849.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>

---- Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com> wrote: 
> yes maybe
> i recall the original lasted the longest. but it was 50 years old so
> i cant blame anything buy maybe time for that failure!

FWIW, I had much the same experience.  The original switch on my TR3A lasted for several years after switching to DOT 5 (long enough that I did not associate it's failure with the DOT 5).  Several replacements from different sources (including a switch from a Ford pickup truck sourced through FLAPS) all failed within a year.  I thought at the time that the failures might be related to the higher power bulbs I use for taillights.  I finally solved the problem on the 3A by mounting a mechanical switch on the pedal box, which was still working fine when the car got wrecked about 5 years later.

Likewise, the original switch in the current TR3 was still working fine when it came to me; and failed within a few months after converting to DOT 5.  I wanted something a bit more stealthy this time, so I made a bracket to mount the switch inside the cabin, against the pedal arm.
http://goo.gl/LbhNv

Not the neatest of jobs, but it is practically invisible unless you crawl under the dash and has worked great since 2009.

BTW, the hydraulic switches all failed somewhat gradually.  There was a period where they would only make contact with very firm pressure on the pedal.

Randall

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Tue May  7 15:16:11 2013
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 14:16:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Changing from DOT 3 to DOT 5 Fluif
In-Reply-To: <20130507210231.MDU10.849.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>
References: <1367943023.74765.YahooMailNeo@web120002.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<20130507210231.MDU10.849.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>
Message-ID: <1367961371.5806.YahooMailNeo@web120001.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

i saw your last switch where you had it at the pedal box under the hood. that
was slick too.
 
"BTW, the hydraulic switches all failed somewhat gradually.
There was a period where they would only make contact with very firm pressure
on the pedal."  exactly my experience too.
 
i have now found that with the
help of a buddy, i can change the switch out in about 2 mins.
make switch
loose by minimal turn with a wrench.
buddy in car puts just a tad of pressure
on the pedal and calls out.
unscrew switch and screw in new switch by hand
while a tiny bit of DOT5 leaks out.
add a smidge of DOT5 in the MC to
replenish
no need to re-bleed, pedal never gets more than 1/2 way down.
break
out the scotch...job done.
 
 

From: Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To:
"triumphs at autox.team.net" <triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Tuesday, May 7,
2013 2:02 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Changing from DOT 3 to DOT 5 Fluif


---- Frank
Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com> wrote: 
> yes maybe
> i recall the original
lasted the longest. but it was 50 years old so
> i cant blame anything buy
maybe time for that failure!

FWIW, I had much the same experience.  The
original switch on my TR3A lasted for several years after switching to DOT 5
(long enough that I did not associate it's failure with the DOT 5).  Several
replacements from different sources (including a switch from a Ford pickup
truck sourced through FLAPS) all failed within a year.  I thought at the time
that the failures might be related to the higher power bulbs I use for
taillights.  I finally solved the problem on the 3A by mounting a mechanical
switch on the pedal box, which was still working fine when the car got wrecked
about 5 years later.

Likewise, the original switch in the current TR3 was
still working fine when it came to me; and failed within a few months after
converting to DOT 5.  I wanted something a bit more stealthy this time, so I
made a bracket to mount the switch inside the cabin, against the pedal arm.
http://goo.gl/LbhNv

Not the neatest of jobs, but it is practically invisible
unless you crawl under the dash and has worked great since 2009.

BTW, the
hydraulic switches all failed somewhat gradually.  There was a period where
they would only make contact with very firm pressure on the pedal.

Randall
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Tue May  7 15:27:43 2013
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 14:27:43 -0700
Subject: [TR] Changing from DOT 3 to DOT 5 Fluif
In-Reply-To: <20130507210231.MDU10.849.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>
References: <1367943023.74765.YahooMailNeo@web120002.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<20130507210231.MDU10.849.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bG8EunzUJtgSpp_OR=bHqZMpBeZGRmQKhRt9uC1isad_A@mail.gmail.com>

Looking into the BCF archives I see I posted a couple of years ago when it
was postulated that DOT5 was causing premature failure of the TR3A brake
light switches...


*> That's what they seem to be saying. I'll be in the test group on this
one as I have DOT5*
*> and the switch sold by Moss -- Intermotor brand p/n 51620, made in
England.

> Switch installed 9/9/2009, 87,853 miles. Now at 92,997. So far, so good. *

**
That switch is still functioning at 98,000 miles.  Still have to say 'so
far so good' -- hope I haven't jinxed it.

Geo


On Tue, May 7, 2013 at 2:02 PM, Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

> FWIW, I had much the same experience.  The original switch on my TR3A
> lasted for several years after switching to DOT 5 (long enough that I did
> not associate it's failure with the DOT 5).  Several replacements from
> different sources (including a switch from a Ford pickup truck sourced
> through FLAPS) all failed within a year.  I thought at the time that the
> failures might be related to the higher power bulbs I use for taillights.
>  I finally solved the problem on the 3A by mounting a mechanical switch on
> the pedal box, which was still working fine when the car got wrecked about
> 5 years later.
>
> Likewise, the original switch in the current TR3 was still working fine
> when it came to me; and failed within a few months after converting to DOT
> 5...

From tr3abobm77 at frontier.com  Tue May  7 16:05:18 2013
From: tr3abobm77 at frontier.com (tr3abobm77 at frontier.com)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 15:05:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] rear oil seal TR3
In-Reply-To: <1367945884.39317.YahooMailNeo@web120002.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1367939951.21680.YahooMailNeo@web120005.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<1367943831.54664.YahooMailNeo@web142606.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<1367945884.39317.YahooMailNeo@web120002.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1367964318.93808.YahooMailNeo@web142606.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Alexander Racing Enterprises 
http://the-vintage-racer.com//index.php
Click on
engine componants - second page middle.
No picture but from the price and
mention of a core charge you send in your old aluminum seal 
and get a
machined one in return along with the new Viton seal.
So it would be a kit in
that respect. 
When I dealt with Joe I just bought the seal and the centering
tool and did everything else myself.
 
Bob Maassel
tr3abobm77 at frontier.com
1959 TR3A
 

________________________________
 From: Frank Fisher
<yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>
To: "tr3abobm77 at frontier.com" <tr3abobm77 at frontier.com>;
"triumphs at autox.team.net" <triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Tuesday, May 7,
2013 12:58 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] rear oil seal TR3
  


Bob 
so the seal is not
a kit? 
i do have some accesses to a machine shop, but there is work to be
done and therefore its not a "bolt on kit" ???? 
  
Frank
________________________________
From: "tr3abobm77 at frontier.com"
<tr3abobm77 at frontier.com>
To: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>;
"triumphs at autox.team.net" <triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Tuesday, May 7,
2013 9:23 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] rear oil seal TR3
 


I did mine two years ago.
I bought the seal from Joe Alexander as soon as I found out he was selling the
Marx seal. I probably have close to 1000 miles on it now and I am not getting
oil spots on the floor any more. Since I have a lathe I machined my old scroll
seal halves myself to accept the new seal. I don't know if my engine is unique
but I find the centering tools totally usless as once you snug down the
bearing cap the seal can't move in any direction anyway so it is basically
self centering. I had to grind the ends of the flywheel bolts slightly to make
sure they didn't hit the seal. So far I am satisfied and since it is totally
reversible I am out only the cost of the seal if it fails. 
Bob Maassel
tr3abobm77 at frontier.com 
1959 TR3A
 

________________________________
From:
Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs at autox.team.net"
<triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Tuesday, May 7, 2013 11:19 AM
Subject: [TR]
rear oil seal TR3
 

would love to hear testimony from those who have used the
"new" rear oil seal for the TR3 motors.
the one that does not require the
crank be machined.
Frank

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3abobm77 at frontier.com

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue May  7 16:09:15 2013
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 22:09:15 +0000
Subject: [TR] Changing from DOT 3 to DOT 5 Fluif
In-Reply-To: <1367961371.5806.YahooMailNeo@web120001.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20130507220915.U1AM2.1219.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>

---- Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com> wrote: 
> i saw your last switch where you had it at the pedal box under the hood. that
> was slick too.

FWIW, here's a photo of that setup (taken after the car was wrecked and set out in the rain for a few years)
http://goo.gl/nDBE9

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue May  7 16:24:38 2013
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 22:24:38 +0000
Subject: [TR] rear oil seal TR3
In-Reply-To: <1367964318.93808.YahooMailNeo@web142606.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20130507222438.EA13E.1282.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>

---- "tr3abobm77 at frontier.com" <tr3abobm77 at frontier.com> wrote: 
> Alexander Racing Enterprises 
> http://the-vintage-racer.com//index.php
> Click on
> engine componants - second page middle.
> No picture but from the price and
> mention of a core charge you send in your old aluminum seal 
> and get a
> machined one in return along with the new Viton seal.

Joe doesn't do that any more; too much hassle with the cores (and people who didn't have a core available).  Instead, he now has a shipment of new alloy seal housings.  So it is a fully bolt-on kit, except that they recommend some light polishing of the crank surface where the seal rides.  You can also get the same kit through TRF (who gets them from Joe).

Here's a photo of the new kit
http://goo.gl/gfv2R

and a copy of the older installation instructions (ignore the section on how to modify the old housing)
http://goo.gl/bqIF3

Randall

From mhooper at indiefilmnet.com  Tue May  7 16:39:00 2013
From: mhooper at indiefilmnet.com (Mark Hooper)
Date: Tue, 07 May 2013 18:39:00 -0400
Subject: [TR] Lightweight TR6 question
In-Reply-To: <20130507220915.U1AM2.1219.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>
Message-ID: <c40c3974.1ce4b73.4e155589.4230@indiefilmnet.com>

Several years ago Canley Classics had some space on their web site dedicated
to their development of an aluminium alloy cylinder head for the TR6. The
project looked pretty far advanced. However, it seems to have completely
disappeared from the site and any discussion ended in about 2006.

Is anybody out there doing anything in this area?

I do remember seeing a NZ or Australian amateur project where they had
developed and cast an alloy engine block for a healey. It reduced the 600 lb
weight of the iron block to about 200 lbs. quite impressive.

Of course, it's all moot; the huge cost of the parts would be out of reach
this year, but I'm just interested to see what results were obtained.

Mark Hooper
1972 TR6

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Tue May  7 16:40:52 2013
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 18:40:52 -0400
Subject: [TR] rear oil seal TR3
In-Reply-To: <20130507222438.EA13E.1282.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>
References: <1367964318.93808.YahooMailNeo@web142606.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<20130507222438.EA13E.1282.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>
Message-ID: <CANhzkePmJZwvN7PemNd8_soQD2yB3N4x=44AnyYgn8KYOSXUuA@mail.gmail.com>

I'm happy with it. Very little oil on the floor.  Pretty much a fifty cent
piece puddle after a drive.  Some is from the breather for sure.  I need to
put it on the lift and check oil pan bolts. Im pretty sure it aint the seal.

From kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Tue May  7 18:33:30 2013
From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer)
Date: Tue, 7 May 2013 17:33:30 -0700
Subject: [TR] 3 point Seat belts for a TR3A
Message-ID: <002c01ce4b83$aa308ab0$fe91a010$@net>

I have 2 incentives to replace the lap belts with shoulder belts and I was
wondering if anyone has used these from Moss:

http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=32241 

 

If so, where and how did you anchor them? Is there another option?
Retractable would be nice, is it possible in a TR3A? I have the earlier
sheet metal design with the sloped rear shelf if that makes any difference.

 

Reason 1: My 5 year old car guy grandson (can identify almost every make of
car by its logo) is coming from Phila. to visit and he wants to ride in the
Triumph. Calif. Law says he has to ride in a booster seat, but the only
purpose of a booster seat is raise the shoulder to where the belt is more
useful than harmful. Without the shoulder belt, it would be safer for him to
sit directly on the seat with the lap belt.  I can just see myself trying to
explain that to the nice policeman. 

Reason 2: My wife gets very tired on back road tours from trying to stay in
her seat on turns, maybe the shoulder belt will keep her from sliding so
much, or at least give her something else to hang on to?

 

I have an interior panel kit from TRF still in the box. If I'm going to
install these belts, I'd like to do it before I tackle the installation of
the kit.

 

Thanks for any input,

Bob 

From jeremiah at curryclan.net  Wed May  8 09:25:39 2013
From: jeremiah at curryclan.net (Jeremiah Curry)
Date: Wed, 8 May 2013 09:25:39 -0600
Subject: [TR] mechanic/machine shop in St. George Utah or possibly Las Vegas
 Area
Message-ID: <0BAB496DF94C416B95E56DBB2B63C61B@TVroompc>

Howdy all,

I am looking for recommendations on a shop to look at the engine on my 57 TR3.
I live in St. George Utah (right on the Arizona border off of I15) and might
be able to get the car to Las Vegas about 125 miles away.

I blew the head gasket and the car overheated when I drove it the 300 miles
from Salt Lake City to St. George.  I replaced the head gasket and it now
runs, but there is major blow by, a knocking sound and low oil pressure once
warm, leading me to believe I have some major bottom end issues.  While I have
done most of the work on the car myself I donbt feel brave or qualified
enough to tear into the bottom end.

I had the Head and carbs professionally done and the car has 87mm pistons.

thanks,
Jeremiah

From deruiterville at hotmail.com  Wed May  8 10:08:19 2013
From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter)
Date: Wed, 8 May 2013 11:08:19 -0500
Subject: [TR] rear oil seal TR3
In-Reply-To: <1367939951.21680.YahooMailNeo@web120005.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1367939951.21680.YahooMailNeo@web120005.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BAY150-W171072A9BCDD68D51D0ACAB9BB0@phx.gbl>

I've rebuilt two engines with the seal and am very pleased.  Minimal drips at
this point, seal is doing well after about 3000 miles on the first engine.
Both my kits came from Joe Alexander using original scrolls, but I suspect the
new setup is just as good an no need for dealing with cores.  Of course if you
do want to do the machine work yourself I suggest contacting Joe to see if
seals are sold separately.  Instructions for machining the original scroll
housing are available.

>
> would love to hear testimony from those who have used the "new" rear oil
seal for the TR3 motors.
> the one that does not require the crank be machined.
> Frank

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Wed May  8 17:07:40 2013
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Wed, 8 May 2013 19:07:40 -0400
Subject: [TR] Viton seal kit
Message-ID: <1896D79F-BC44-4D58-82AA-CE540C8F46B2@cs.com>

Sent from my iPa

I am traveling at the moment.  I will contact everyone who asks about this
kit,shortly.

Some stuff has changed from the website, but everything is available right
now.

Thanks

From elliottr at rmi.net  Wed May  8 17:24:02 2013
From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott)
Date: Wed, 08 May 2013 18:24:02 -0500
Subject: [TR] Changing from DOT 3 to DOT 5 Fluif
In-Reply-To: <COL127-DS24B5987C0CFA193824A8AAC1BA0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL127-DS24B5987C0CFA193824A8AAC1BA0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <518ADE92.5090501@rmi.net>

These 2 paragraphs are from DOT's '571.116 Standard No. 116; Motor 
vehicle brake fluids.

*Brake fluid* means a liquid designed for use in a motor vehicle 
hydraulic brake system in which it will contact elastomeric components 
made of styrene and butadiene rubber (SBR), ethylene and propylene 
rubber (EPR), polychloroprene (CR) brake hose inner tube stock or 
natural rubber (NR).


*A silicone base brake fluid* (SBBF) is a brake fluid which consists of 
not less than 70 percent by weight of a diorgano polysiloxane.

Seems to indicate that silicone brake fluid has to be designed to work 
with the same seals that other brake fluifs work with.  (DOT obviously 
doesn't know the proper spelling).

Roger Elliott

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed May  8 21:31:25 2013
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 8 May 2013 20:31:25 -0700
Subject: [TR] Changing from DOT 3 to DOT 5 Fluif
In-Reply-To: <518ADE92.5090501@rmi.net>
Message-ID: <D9.8F.11869.A881B815@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> Seems to indicate that silicone brake fluid has to be 
> designed to work 
> with the same seals that other brake fluifs work with. 

True, but as usual it's more complicated than that.  For example, the term
"SBR" refers to a whole range of compounds (much like the term "steel")
which can have different characteristics.  But the DOT acceptance test only
uses one particular blend (which also contains other substances like carbon,
zinc oxide and sulfur); while brake components aren't necessarily the same
blend.  Especially aftermarket seals made outside the reach of the US DOT.

Original Girling seals were actually natural rubber (with additives) and not
compatible with some common DOT-approved fluifs then either.

-- Randall 

From dave at ranteer.com  Wed May  8 21:53:01 2013
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Wed, 8 May 2013 22:53:01 -0500
Subject: [TR] tr3b starter conclusion
Message-ID: <FC1F6A90671241B49E4B32B0A0EC5BFF@Datsun>

seemed like a stumper.  since I have a 63 tr4, I swapped the starter out of it
and installed it in the tr3b.  purrs like a kitten.

so even though I had a freshly rebuilt starter, it clearly was a problem.

and Ibm getting really good at removing and installing starters!

I also had a problem with the starter in the tr6, so this week I have:

removed and reinstalled a starter in the tr6

removed a starter from a tr4

installed, removed, and installed a starter in the tr3b.

I guess a starter needs to go back in the tr4 . . . .

From malcolm at ipatch.ca  Thu May  9 10:27:20 2013
From: malcolm at ipatch.ca (Malcolm)
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 09:27:20 -0700
Subject: [TR] tr3b starter conclusion
In-Reply-To: <FC1F6A90671241B49E4B32B0A0EC5BFF@Datsun>
References: <FC1F6A90671241B49E4B32B0A0EC5BFF@Datsun>
Message-ID: <CAGjWObXp4516CJ_a2Mgd3bR0B8kXjAOM8AGW+r7M8Np40Pkrvw@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Dave,

If you feel like swapping some more, compare the pinions on the two
starters (TR3B vs TR4).  I had an '85 Bronco II with an engine of
mysterious origin.  The starter went, so I replaced it with one appropriate
for the original engine.  It was not.  After grinding my way through four
starters (thanks, Canadian Tire warranty!) and trying all manner of
band-aid solutions, I finally swapped out the starter pinion for one with
more teeth.  After that, the starter never missed a beat, or a tooth.

Regards,
-Malcolm


On Wed, May 8, 2013 at 8:53 PM, Dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:

> seemed like a stumper.  since I have a 63 tr4, I swapped the starter out
> of it
> and installed it in the tr3b.  purrs like a kitten.
>
> so even though I had a freshly rebuilt starter, it clearly was a problem.
>
> and Ib m getting really good at removing and installing starters!
>
> I also had a problem with the starter in the tr6, so this week I have:
>
> removed and reinstalled a starter in the tr6
>
> removed a starter from a tr4
>
> installed, removed, and installed a starter in the tr3b.
>
> I guess a starter needs to go back in the tr4 . . . .
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/malcolm at ipatch.ca

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Thu May  9 12:33:09 2013
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh)
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 11:33:09 -0700
Subject: [TR] Small Mouth Brake Caliper
Message-ID: <5A4C24DA-547E-423B-B85F-FEBA5876FC73@comcast.net>

>From what I can see none of the Big Three have new calipers for the 1957 TR3.
Anyone know of one for sale anywhere?

Thanksb&

BTW  Have a friend who bought the wrong pressure plate  Do you know anyone
rebuilding a TR2,3 or early TR4 that may need a pressure plate?
I think he would sell it cheap b&


"Life is too short to drive boring cars"

Bill Pugh
1957 TR3 "Casper"p;
TS16765L
Wallace, CA
anabil007 at comcast.netp

From bill_beecher at flash.net  Thu May  9 12:42:46 2013
From: bill_beecher at flash.net (Bill_Beecher)
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 13:42:46 -0500
Subject: [TR] Fwd: Triumph TR4 $500
References: <10D8EC98-D3C3-48BE-A9FE-6B841F2AF903@flash.net>
Message-ID: <41091651-B601-4F2F-A35E-3388801019D1@flash.net>

Saw this on CL, I have the added the phone and a   YouTube video if anyone is
interested.

Car is on the edge of being a parts-only, with a small block Ford V8
conversion.

NFI,
Bill

Sent from my iPhone

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lVToOVsb_r4&feature=youtube_gdata_player
>
>
> http://littlerock.craigslist.org/cto/3792118355.html
>
tel:(501) 366-8838
> Sent from my iPhone

From bberger720 at sbcglobal.net  Thu May  9 13:41:03 2013
From: bberger720 at sbcglobal.net (Berger Bob)
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 14:41:03 -0500
Subject: [TR] Triumph TR4 $500
In-Reply-To: <41091651-B601-4F2F-A35E-3388801019D1@flash.net>
References: <10D8EC98-D3C3-48BE-A9FE-6B841F2AF903@flash.net>
	<41091651-B601-4F2F-A35E-3388801019D1@flash.net>
Message-ID: <B28583F1-5B00-4874-AA0D-D8B6CA4B76A6@sbcglobal.net>

All it needs is a good wash and wax.

Bob Berger
78 Spitfire
St. Louis, MO
NASS #627


On May 9, 2013, at 1:42 PM, Bill_Beecher wrote:

> Saw this on CL, I have the added the phone and a   YouTube video if anyone
is
> interested.
>
> Car is on the edge of being a parts-only, with a small block Ford V8
> conversion.
>
> NFI,
> Bill
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lVToOVsb_r4&feature=youtube_gdata_player
>>
>>
>> http://littlerock.craigslist.org/cto/3792118355.html
>>
> tel:(501) 366-8838
>> Sent from my iPhone

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Thu May  9 14:25:31 2013
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 13:25:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Triumph TR4 $500
In-Reply-To: <B28583F1-5B00-4874-AA0D-D8B6CA4B76A6@sbcglobal.net>
References: <10D8EC98-D3C3-48BE-A9FE-6B841F2AF903@flash.net>
	<41091651-B601-4F2F-A35E-3388801019D1@flash.net>
	<B28583F1-5B00-4874-AA0D-D8B6CA4B76A6@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <1368131131.15432.YahooMailNeo@web120006.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

it will polish out


From: Berger Bob <bberger720 at sbcglobal.net>
To: Listserv
Triumph <triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Thursday, May 9, 2013 12:41 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph TR4 $500


All it needs is a good wash and wax.

Bob
Berger
78 Spitfire
St. Louis, MO
NASS #627


On May 9, 2013, at 1:42 PM,
Bill_Beecher wrote:

> Saw this on CL, I have the added the phone and a 
YouTube video if anyone
is
> interested.
>
> Car is on the edge of being a
parts-only, with a small block Ford V8
> conversion.
>
> NFI,
> Bill
>
> Sent
from my iPhone
>
>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lVToOVsb_r4&feature=youtube_gdata_player
>>
>>
>> http://littlerock.craigslist.org/cto/3792118355.html
>>
> tel:(501)
366-8838
>> Sent from my iPhone

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com

From levilevi at comcast.net  Thu May  9 14:52:19 2013
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud R)
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 14:52:19 -0600
Subject: [TR] Fwd: Triumph TR4 $500
In-Reply-To: <41091651-B601-4F2F-A35E-3388801019D1@flash.net>
References: <10D8EC98-D3C3-48BE-A9FE-6B841F2AF903@flash.net>
	<41091651-B601-4F2F-A35E-3388801019D1@flash.net>
Message-ID: <A354E717-F4BF-48F9-80E8-D82DCB3631F8@comcast.net>

Bill,

Do you have the craigslist link? Looks like it has Colorado plates and  
since I'm in CO I'm real curious. Especially curious where in CO they  
have that many Oak tree leaves to fill up the engine bay.

Thanks
Bud

Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle
77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)









On May 9, 2013, at 12:42 PM, Bill_Beecher wrote:

> Saw this on CL, I have the added the phone and a   YouTube video if  
> anyone is
> interested.
>
> Car is on the edge of being a parts-only, with a small block Ford V8
> conversion.
>
> NFI,
> Bill
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lVToOVsb_r4&feature=youtube_gdata_player
>>
>>
>> http://littlerock.craigslist.org/cto/3792118355.html
>>
> tel:(501) 366-8838
>> Sent from my iPhone
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Thu May  9 14:57:18 2013
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 16:57:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] Small Mouth Brake Caliper
In-Reply-To: <5A4C24DA-547E-423B-B85F-FEBA5876FC73@comcast.net>
References: <5A4C24DA-547E-423B-B85F-FEBA5876FC73@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <00bb01ce4cf7$ccb57440$66205cc0$@uprichard.net>

The early cars have an external pipe from one side to the other.  But can
the later calipers not be used on the earlier cars?

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Pugh
Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2013 2:33 PM
To: TR3/6
Subject: [TR] Small Mouth Brake Caliper

>From what I can see none of the Big Three have new calipers for the 1957
TR3.
Anyone know of one for sale anywhere?

Thanksb&

BTW  Have a friend who bought the wrong pressure plate  Do you know anyone
rebuilding a TR2,3 or early TR4 that may need a pressure plate?
I think he would sell it cheap b&


"Life is too short to drive boring cars"

Bill Pugh
1957 TR3 "Casper"p;
TS16765L
Wallace, CA
anabil007 at comcast.netp

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net

From bberger720 at sbcglobal.net  Thu May  9 15:06:03 2013
From: bberger720 at sbcglobal.net (Berger Bob)
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 16:06:03 -0500
Subject: [TR] Triumph TR4 $500
In-Reply-To: <A354E717-F4BF-48F9-80E8-D82DCB3631F8@comcast.net>
References: <10D8EC98-D3C3-48BE-A9FE-6B841F2AF903@flash.net>
	<41091651-B601-4F2F-A35E-3388801019D1@flash.net>
	<A354E717-F4BF-48F9-80E8-D82DCB3631F8@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <7D655091-8E2F-4961-AD6E-C26D7EFBFF93@sbcglobal.net>

Here is the link. It was right below the YouTube link. 
 
On May 9, 2013, at 3:52 PM, Bud R wrote:

>>> 
>>> http://littlerock.craigslist.org/cto/3792118355.html
> 

Bob Berger
78 Spitfire
St. Louis, MO
NASS #627

From bill_beecher at flash.net  Thu May  9 16:51:39 2013
From: bill_beecher at flash.net (bill_beecher at flash.net)
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 17:51:39 -0500
Subject: [TR] Fwd: Triumph TR4 $500
In-Reply-To: <A354E717-F4BF-48F9-80E8-D82DCB3631F8@comcast.net>
References: <10D8EC98-D3C3-48BE-A9FE-6B841F2AF903@flash.net>
	<41091651-B601-4F2F-A35E-3388801019D1@flash.net>
	<A354E717-F4BF-48F9-80E8-D82DCB3631F8@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <0076B083A6D74E6BAA65F0971B51B80A@bboffice>

It did come from Colorado, is now in Little Rock, AR.  Plenty of oak trees
and humidity.  She says daddy bought it new. 

http://littlerock.craigslist.org/cto/3792118355.html
 
 
Bill



  _____  

From: Bud R [mailto:levilevi at comcast.net] 
Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2013 3:52 PM
To: Bill_Beecher; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Fwd: Triumph TR4 $500


Bill, 

Do you have the craigslist link? Looks like it has Colorado plates and since
I'm in CO I'm real curious. Especially curious where in CO they have that
many Oak tree leaves to fill up the engine bay.

Thanks 
Bud 

Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle 
77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)









On May 9, 2013, at 12:42 PM, Bill_Beecher wrote:


Saw this on CL, I have the added the phone and a   YouTube video if anyone
is
interested.

Car is on the edge of being a parts-only, with a small block Ford V8
conversion.

NFI,
Bill

Sent from my iPhone

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lVToOVsb_r4
<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lVToOVsb_r4&feature=youtube_gdata_player>
&feature=youtube_gdata_player



 


tel:(501) 366-8838


Sent from my iPhone



** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net

From lee at automate-it.com  Thu May  9 17:14:17 2013
From: lee at automate-it.com (Lee Daniels)
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 18:14:17 -0500
Subject: [TR] Rough TR250 near Houston - Craigslist, $2000
Message-ID: <ede1f055f5cb7916414e8538d596e969.squirrel@www.automate-it.com>

In case anyone's interested:
just came across this craigslist entry for a '68 TR250
  http://houston.craigslist.org/cto/3742748508.html
appears to be in Bacliff - between Houston and Galveston.
Too bad the ad gives NO information about this car.
Lee

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Thu May  9 17:52:59 2013
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 18:52:59 -0500
Subject: [TR] Rough TR250 near Houston - Craigslist, $2000
In-Reply-To: <ede1f055f5cb7916414e8538d596e969.squirrel@www.automate-it.com>
References: <ede1f055f5cb7916414e8538d596e969.squirrel@www.automate-it.com>
Message-ID: <7A14497464704C70BEB807C650EBFA2D@livingroompc>

If it is not all rotted out underneath doesn't look to bad for the money?  I 
paid more for mine and I think it looked worse when I got it, but then again 
maybe I am not the most astute buyer........  Greg Lemon

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu May  9 17:58:59 2013
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 23:58:59 +0000
Subject: [TR] Small Mouth Brake Caliper
In-Reply-To: <00bb01ce4cf7$ccb57440$66205cc0$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <20130509235859.V9A8O.10921.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>

---- Andrew Uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net> wrote: 
> The early cars have an external pipe from one side to the other.  But can
> the later calipers not be used on the earlier cars?

The slightly later ones will fit without modification (unless you are a restoration purist).  But AFAIK they aren't available new either and some of the small parts are different (pad retaining plates & springs).

Starting shortly after the beginning of TR4 production (including some TR3B) the calipers changed again, and those later calipers can only be used if you also use the mounting bracket and brake rotor from a later car.

But rebuildable cores for the early calipers should be easy to come by, as are new pistons and seals.  TRF offers a rebuilding service if you don't care to do them yourself.

If you can't find any cores, email me off-list.

Randall

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Thu May  9 23:46:16 2013
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl-TR)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 01:46:16 -0400
Subject: [TR] WANTED: TR3 Switch Bezels
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPoKQPTb8BxDhdc+Y5YHXJqigQAAEAAAAFmqr0/Mj3RMse3lJTmRyw4BAAAAAA==@verizon.net>

Does anyone know of a source for the original type switch bezels for a TR3.
3/8" ID.  I need 2 maybe 3 for an auxiliary panel I am making. 
See:
http://i1001.photobucket.com/albums/af136/cfmtr3a/Information%20Items/switch
-bezel.jpg 

Thanks
Carl
1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 
Still being restored - but 2013 looks like the year..
Tampa, FL

From greg at gelhar.com  Fri May 10 06:23:20 2013
From: greg at gelhar.com (greg at gelhar.com)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 08:23:20 -0400
Subject: [TR] WANTED: TR3 Switch Bezels
In-Reply-To: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPoKQPTb8BxDhdc+Y5YHXJqigQAAEAAAAFmqr0/Mj3RMse3lJT
	mRyw4BAAAAAA==@verizon.net>
References: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPoKQPTb8BxDhdc+Y5YHXJqigQAAEAAAAFmqr0/Mj3RMse3lJTmRyw4BAAAAAA==@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <f47737b936d6e9e70e10677c0753776f.squirrel@email.accountsupport.com>

I too, went looking for these. I did not find a source here in the USA and
ended up at 
https://www.angloparts.com/en/search/find?utf8=%E2%9C%93&selection=keyword&searchtext=switch+nut&catalogue=0&searchmode=all

Part numbers 161.352, 161.353, 161.354, 161.355

The panel and wiper use 3/8-24 thread size. The headlights use 7/16-24,
starter is 9/16-32, the heater is 9/16-28, the ignition is 3/4-32.Greg G.
Osseo, MN

> Does anyone know of a source for the original type switch bezels for a
> TR3.
> 3/8" ID.  I need 2 maybe 3 for an auxiliary panel I am making.
> Thanks
> Carl

From dave at ranteer.com  Thu May  9 21:28:35 2013
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Thu, 9 May 2013 22:28:35 -0500
Subject: [TR] it runs again
Message-ID: <829444747DF34FB5BE346C10CE894D47@Datsun>

TCF 1402 L ran again tonight after I donbt know how many years.  we think it
was restored years ago (donbt really know) then left in a storage unit.  btw
they really skimped on the paint job (sigh)

after changing the oil, a new starter, unsticking the back float,  cleaning
out the gas line and putting some petrol in the tank, it ran with some help
from some starter fluid to get it going.

it leaks quite a bit from the bottom of the sediment bowl at the fuel pump so
obviously I need to get that taken care of.  likely just a gasket?  if I
unscrew the little wingnut at the bottom, it will (fall out and break) come
out easily enough?  and the gasket goes around the top?

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Fri May 10 10:53:15 2013
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 12:53:15 -0400
Subject: [TR] it runs again
In-Reply-To: <829444747DF34FB5BE346C10CE894D47@Datsun>
References: <829444747DF34FB5BE346C10CE894D47@Datsun>
Message-ID: <518D25FB.2000008@adelphia.net>

Dave.

When you unscrew the wing nut at the bottom of the sediment bowl, do 
hold on to the glass. Yes it will drop and break. But it is quite thick 
and if you had a mat underneath I am sure it would be ok.

There is originally a cork gasket between the bowl, a screen and the 
pump body. That may be dry and cracked. There are rubber replacements 
that work much better. Not rubber but something rubber like.

Always good to make progress on a project.

Bob



On 05/09/2013 11:28 PM, Dave wrote:
> TCF 1402 L ran again tonight after I donbt know how many years.  we think it
> was restored years ago (donbt really know) then left in a storage unit.  btw
> they really skimped on the paint job (sigh)
>
> after changing the oil, a new starter, unsticking the back float,  cleaning
> out the gas line and putting some petrol in the tank, it ran with some help
> from some starter fluid to get it going.
>
> it leaks quite a bit from the bottom of the sediment bowl at the fuel pump so
> obviously I need to get that taken care of.  likely just a gasket?  if I
> unscrew the little wingnut at the bottom, it will (fall out and break) come
> out easily enough?  and the gasket goes around the top?

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Fri May 10 11:05:43 2013
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 10:05:43 -0700
Subject: [TR] it runs again
In-Reply-To: <829444747DF34FB5BE346C10CE894D47@Datsun>
References: <829444747DF34FB5BE346C10CE894D47@Datsun>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bEn7Zdk-zZv7nd4VqNXwvC78y+mv04wvRpZ3tCNF63j1A@mail.gmail.com>

On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 8:28 PM, Dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:

> ... it leaks quite a bit from the bottom of the sediment bowl at the fuel
> pump so
> obviously I need to get that taken care of.  likely just a gasket?


Hopefully a new gasket will stop the leak but sometimes a PO has tightened
that bale a bit too enthusiastically and caused the portion of the casting
that is the top of the bowl to bow a bit making it hard to get a good
seal.  The pump is a sort of pot metal and bends rather easily, but when I
have encountered such a bow I have been able to rebend the top back into
nearly flat condition.

Geo

From McGaheyRx at aol.com  Fri May 10 12:17:06 2013
From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 14:17:06 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 ground wire..
Message-ID: <1175fe.73441fbd.3ebe93a2@aol.com>

...the one that comes out of the wiring harness in 2 strands and attaches  
via ring terminal to the bolt on top of the steering rack - what purpose 
does  this serve? 
I am installing a NEW steering rack which has no provision for attaching  
any wire to it and it is not immediately obvious to me whether i need to 
attach  that wire to some other  ground point - or ground the rack at some other 
 point - or both?
 
Thanks,
Jack Mc

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri May 10 12:21:52 2013
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 18:21:52 +0000
Subject: [TR] it runs again
In-Reply-To: <829444747DF34FB5BE346C10CE894D47@Datsun>
Message-ID: <20130510182152.EXPTT.1962.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>

---- Dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote: 

> it leaks quite a bit from the bottom of the sediment bowl at the fuel pump so
> obviously I need to get that taken care of.  likely just a gasket?  if I
> unscrew the little wingnut at the bottom, it will (fall out and break) come
> out easily enough?  and the gasket goes around the top?

If it is that old, and leaking that badly; my suggestion would be to go ahead and remove the pump to "rebuild" it with new seals and a new diaphragm.  The original diaphragms will not stand up for long when exposed to modern E10 fuel.  With it off the engine, it will be much easier to check the surface that the sediment bowl seals against; as well as understand better how that bail works.

The rebuild kit from TRF includes a nice soft synthetic rubber seal for the sediment bowl, that will both resist E10 and work much better than the original cork, IMO.  The cost of the kit is significantly more than other sources, but I feel the quality is worth the price.
http://goo.gl/tlnZG

Get a 1/4" drive swivel socket in the right size (I forget offhand whether it's 7/16" or 1/2"). Sears has them.  It will make the R&R of the pump MUCH easier.  Justin Wagner had a photo on his web site but I don't have the link handy.  So here is a shot of it installing carbs:
http://goo.gl/z8KgE

You might also want to replace the soft fuel lines.  They aren't likely to be original, but still might not be resistant to E10.  It's frustrating when they fail, because frequently the first indication is the front carb overflowing.

Randall

From dave at ranteer.com  Fri May 10 12:23:00 2013
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 13:23:00 -0500
Subject: [TR] oil
In-Reply-To: <CANzE1bEn7Zdk-zZv7nd4VqNXwvC78y+mv04wvRpZ3tCNF63j1A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <829444747DF34FB5BE346C10CE894D47@Datsun>
	<CANzE1bEn7Zdk-zZv7nd4VqNXwvC78y+mv04wvRpZ3tCNF63j1A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <14FB523560F3434387382E53225F1485@Datsun>

Ibm not wanting to start a debate on oil, oil weights,  zddp, or dinosaur
juice vs synthetic.

Ibm merely imparting what I discovered today.

I use valvoline 20w50 full synthetic racing oil in my cars.  it has zddp.

it is available from amazon by the case (of 6), for less than my local flaps,
and free shipping because its over $25 per case.  you do pay sales tax

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Fri May 10 12:29:31 2013
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 14:29:31 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 ground wire..
In-Reply-To: <1175fe.73441fbd.3ebe93a2@aol.com>
References: <1175fe.73441fbd.3ebe93a2@aol.com>
Message-ID: <518D3C8B.8030204@adelphia.net>

Jack,

There should be a bolt on the top of the rack where the steering column 
enters the main rack (pinion). This is used to ground the rack for the 
horn circuit.

If there is no bolt on top of the rack, you must figure out some way to 
ground the rack to the frame otherwise your horn is sure to give you 
problems.

I believe this bolt is also used as an access point to pump grease into 
the pinion by removing the bolt and replacing it with a jerk.

At least that is what I have used it for.

  Same applies on TR4, 4A, and 250.

Bob

On 05/10/2013 02:17 PM, McGaheyRx at aol.com wrote:
> ...the one that comes out of the wiring harness in 2 strands and attaches
> via ring terminal to the bolt on top of the steering rack - what purpose
> does  this serve?
> I am installing a NEW steering rack which has no provision for attaching
> any wire to it and it is not immediately obvious to me whether i need to
> attach  that wire to some other  ground point - or ground the rack at some other
>   point - or both?
>   
> Thanks,
> Jack Mc

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Fri May 10 12:42:16 2013
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 13:42:16 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] it runs again
Message-ID: <23808198.30688.1368211336374.JavaMail.root@vms170035>

 I sent the whole thing off to TRF from my 72 TR6 and for $90, came back looking brand new.


Got the soft lines from Moss, easy to replace.


Craig
 
 
On 05/10/13, Randall<tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
 
---- Dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote: 

> it leaks quite a bit from the bottom of the sediment bowl at the fuel pump so
> obviously I need to get that taken care of. likely just a gasket? if I
> unscrew the little wingnut at the bottom, it will (fall out and break) come
> out easily enough? and the gasket goes around the top?

If it is that old, and leaking that badly; my suggestion would be to go ahead and remove the pump to "rebuild" it with new seals and a new diaphragm. The original diaphragms will not stand up for long when exposed to modern E10 fuel. With it off the engine, it will be much easier to check the surface that the sediment bowl seals against; as well as understand better how that bail works.

The rebuild kit from TRF includes a nice soft synthetic rubber seal for the sediment bowl, that will both resist E10 and work much better than the original cork, IMO. The cost of the kit is significantly more than other sources, but I feel the quality is worth the price.
http://goo.gl/tlnZG

Get a 1/4" drive swivel socket in the right size (I forget offhand whether it's 7/16" or 1/2"). Sears has them. It will make the R&R of the pump MUCH easier. Justin Wagner had a photo on his web site but I don't have the link handy. So here is a shot of it installing carbs:
http://goo.gl/z8KgE

You might also want to replace the soft fuel lines. They aren't likely to be original, but still might not be resistant to E10. It's frustrating when they fail, because frequently the first indication is the front carb overflowing.

Randall

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From McGaheyRx at aol.com  Fri May 10 12:49:19 2013
From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 14:49:19 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 ground wire..
Message-ID: <118633.125fe6e3.3ebe9b2f@aol.com>

In a message dated 5/10/2013 2:29:26 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
yellowtr at adelphia.net writes:

There  should be a bolt on the top of the rack where the steering column 
enters  the main rack (pinion). This is used to ground the rack for the 
horn  circuit.
 
 
 
 
I know there should be a bolt there - problem is  there isn't - looks like 
a recessed torx bit plug is there instead. I've already  determined this 
isn't interchangeable with the bolt or cap on an original  rack. 
 
but its useful to know i need to find another way to ground the rack - or  
the column
 
Thanks,
Jack Mc

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Fri May 10 13:14:14 2013
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 15:14:14 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 ground wire..
In-Reply-To: <1175fe.73441fbd.3ebe93a2@aol.com>
References: <1175fe.73441fbd.3ebe93a2@aol.com>
Message-ID: <57A2B8876C3645C589E7AEF951332AAC@BobDell>

Isn't that the ground wire for the horn?

Bob


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/

1975 TR6 modified with:
-Throttle Body Injection
-Toyota 5 Speed
-Nissan Differential
-AAW Wire Harness
-CVJs... and more

-----Original Message----- 
From: McGaheyRx at aol.com
Sent: Friday, May 10, 2013 2:17 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR6 ground wire..

...the one that comes out of the wiring harness in 2 strands and attaches
via ring terminal to the bolt on top of the steering rack - what purpose
does  this serve?
I am installing a NEW steering rack which has no provision for attaching
any wire to it and it is not immediately obvious to me whether i need to
attach  that wire to some other  ground point - or ground the rack at some 
other
point - or both?

Thanks,
Jack Mc

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Fri May 10 14:32:35 2013
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 16:32:35 -0400
Subject: [TR] WANTED: TR3 Switch Bezels
In-Reply-To: <f47737b936d6e9e70e10677c0753776f.squirrel@email.accountsupport.com>
References: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPoKQPTb8BxDhdc+Y5YHXJqigQAAEAAAAFmqr0/Mj3RMse3lJTmRyw4BAAAAAA==@verizon.net>
	<f47737b936d6e9e70e10677c0753776f.squirrel@email.accountsupport.com>
Message-ID: <004001ce4dbd$81ec5570$85c50050$@verizon.net>

Thanks Greg & Don - I was aware of the later non-beveled bezels.   I was
hoping that someone knew of a source for the beveled type.  I'll keep
looking. (or if someone else has some they don't need....  )

Carl
1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 
Tampa, FL


-----Original Message-----
From: greg at gelhar.com [mailto:greg at gelhar.com] 
Sent: Friday, May 10, 2013 8:23 AM
To: cfmtr3a at verizon.net
Cc: TR List
Subject: Re: [TR] WANTED: TR3 Switch Bezels

I too, went looking for these. I did not find a source here in the USA and
ended up at
https://www.angloparts.com/en/search/find?utf8=%E2%9C%93&selection=keyword&s
earchtext=switch+nut&catalogue=0&searchmode=all

Part numbers 161.352, 161.353, 161.354, 161.355

The panel and wiper use 3/8-24 thread size. The headlights use 7/16-24,
starter is 9/16-32, the heater is 9/16-28, the ignition is 3/4-32.Greg G.
Osseo, MN

> Does anyone know of a source for the original type switch bezels for a 
> TR3.
> 3/8" ID.  I need 2 maybe 3 for an auxiliary panel I am making.
> Thanks
> Carl

From bberger720 at sbcglobal.net  Fri May 10 15:01:14 2013
From: bberger720 at sbcglobal.net (Berger Bob)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 16:01:14 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 ground wire..
In-Reply-To: <118633.125fe6e3.3ebe9b2f@aol.com>
References: <118633.125fe6e3.3ebe9b2f@aol.com>
Message-ID: <0DF6B67F-BE0D-4772-8431-9F09D7CA0ACA@sbcglobal.net>

You could replace the torx bit plug with a bolt. Take the plug to your
hardware store.

Bob Berger
JE Novack Const.

On May 10, 2013, at 1:49 PM, McGaheyRx at aol.com wrote:

>
> I know there should be a bolt there - problem is  there isn't - looks like
> a recessed torx bit plug is there instead.
>
> Thanks,
> Jack Mc

From keithstewart at execulink.com  Fri May 10 15:13:46 2013
From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart)
Date: Fri, 10 May 2013 17:13:46 -0400
Subject: [TR] it runs again
In-Reply-To: <mailman.20.1368208803.7235.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.20.1368208803.7235.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8B73585B-E630-40EA-892B-3F456BBAFB40@execulink.com>

On 2013-05-10, at 2:00 PM, Dave wrote:

>
> it leaks quite a bit from the bottom of the sediment bowl at the fuel pump
so
> obviously I need to get that taken care of.  likely just a gasket?  if I
> unscrew the little wingnut at the bottom, it will (fall out and break) come
> out easily enough?  and the gasket goes around the top?

Others have suggested answers to your actual diagnosis, but don't forget that
ANY leak at the fuel pump will drip down and present itself as a leak at the
sediment bowl because it is the lowest point. Make sure the inlet from the
tank and the outlet to the carb are not the culprits. These are both
compression fittings (5/16" into the fuel pump and <" out to the carbs) and
there have been issues with misfitting "olives" where the tube nut bottoms out
in the pump fitting before there is sufficient compression of the olive to
make a seal. If that is the case and you cannot get a proper replacement,
there is a "fix" that has been floating around for years. If you need a copy
of that fix, email me and I will send it along.

Keith Stewart
keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom

From tom628 at verizon.net  Fri May 10 22:36:51 2013
From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note)
Date: Sat, 11 May 2013 00:36:51 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 ground wire..
References: <118633.125fe6e3.3ebe9b2f@aol.com>
	<0DF6B67F-BE0D-4772-8431-9F09D7CA0ACA@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <6B88E437C13F40E9B0E202791D968B48@Toms>

I just replaced my rack also. There is no provision (that I can see) for the 
horn ground wire. The plug at the pinion is a large (~3/4"?)  recessed 
female hex nut, and no way to attach a ground wire. I recall that someone 
else had drilled a very small hole in the area for a ground wire.

I was annoyed initially, until I tried the horns and they work fine w/o the 
ground wire (so far?).

Tom

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Berger Bob" <bberger720 at sbcglobal.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 10, 2013 5:01 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 ground wire..


> You could replace the torx bit plug with a bolt. Take the plug to your
> hardware store.
>
> Bob Berger
> JE Novack Const.
>
> On May 10, 2013, at 1:49 PM, McGaheyRx at aol.com wrote:
>
>>
>> I know there should be a bolt there - problem is  there isn't - looks 
>> like
>> a recessed torx bit plug is there instead.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Jack Mc
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tom628 at verizon.net 

From dconnitt at fuse.net  Sat May 11 14:24:34 2013
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Sat, 11 May 2013 16:24:34 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A Windshield WIper Switch
Message-ID: <8238DDB197BD42A197FAD750A2C74395@DaveLaptop>

List,
While installing my new wire harness, I found out my windshield wiper switch
isn't working. Does anyone have a good spare they would be willing to sell me?
Thanks,
Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A IRS
http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a

From dave1massey at cs.com  Sat May 11 16:40:57 2013
From: dave1massey at cs.com (Dave Massey)
Date: Sat, 11 May 2013 18:40:57 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 ground wire..
In-Reply-To: <1175fe.73441fbd.3ebe93a2@aol.com>
References: <1175fe.73441fbd.3ebe93a2@aol.com>
Message-ID: <8D01CAFBD1B8593-E24-8A87@webmail-vm019.sysops.aol.com>

That provides the ground for the horn button.  Since the rack is mounted in
rubber there is no reliable ground for the steering and the horn may not
work.




Dave Massey






-----Original Message-----
From: McGaheyRx <McGaheyRx at aol.com>


...the one that comes out of the wiring harness in 2 strands and attaches
via ring terminal to the bolt on top of the steering rack - what purpose
does  this serve?
I am installing a NEW steering rack which has no provision for attaching
any wire to it and it is not immediately obvious to me whether i need to
attach  that wire to some other  ground point - or ground the rack at some
other

 point - or both?

Thanks,
Jack Mc

From tom628 at verizon.net  Sat May 11 23:35:10 2013
From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note)
Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 01:35:10 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 ground wire..
References: <1175fe.73441fbd.3ebe93a2@aol.com>
	<8D01CAFBD1B8593-E24-8A87@webmail-vm019.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <22EEA59032F04720AFFA684128C563AE@Toms>

Ahhh... that explains why mine works :  I installed the quick ratio rack 
with the alloy mounts which apparently provide an adequate ground.

Tom


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dave Massey" <dave1massey at cs.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 11, 2013 6:40 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 ground wire..


> That provides the ground for the horn button.  Since the rack is mounted 
> in
> rubber there is no reliable ground for the steering and the horn may not
> work.
>
>
>
>
> Dave Massey
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: McGaheyRx <McGaheyRx at aol.com>
>
>
> ...the one that comes out of the wiring harness in 2 strands and attaches
> via ring terminal to the bolt on top of the steering rack - what purpose
> does  this serve?
> I am installing a NEW steering rack which has no provision for attaching
> any wire to it and it is not immediately obvious to me whether i need to
> attach  that wire to some other  ground point - or ground the rack at some
> other
>
> point - or both?
>
> Thanks,
> Jack Mc
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tom628 at verizon.net 

From dave1massey at cs.com  Sun May 12 05:32:49 2013
From: dave1massey at cs.com (Dave Massey)
Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 07:32:49 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 ground wire..
In-Reply-To: <22EEA59032F04720AFFA684128C563AE@Toms>
References: <1175fe.73441fbd.3ebe93a2@aol.com>
	<8D01CAFBD1B8593-E24-8A87@webmail-vm019.sysops.aol.com>
	<22EEA59032F04720AFFA684128C563AE@Toms>
Message-ID: <8D01D1B90C13E65-FBC-A8E6@webmail-vd004.sysops.aol.com>

There's an alternate method of grounding the rack! And one Jack would like,
I'll bet.




Dave Massey






-----Original Message-----
From: Tom Note <tom628 at verizon.net>
To: Dave Massey <dave1massey at cs.com>; triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, May 12, 2013 12:35 am
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 ground wire..


Ahhh... that explains why mine works :  I installed the quick ratio rack
with the alloy mounts which apparently provide an adequate ground.

Tom


----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Massey" <dave1massey at cs.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 11, 2013 6:40 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 ground wire..


> That provides the ground for the horn button.  Since the rack is mounted
> in
> rubber there is no reliable ground for the steering and the horn may not
> work.
>
>
>
>
> Dave Massey
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: McGaheyRx <McGaheyRx at aol.com>
>
>
> ...the one that comes out of the wiring harness in 2 strands and attaches
> via ring terminal to the bolt on top of the steering rack - what purpose
> does  this serve?
> I am installing a NEW steering rack which has no provision for attaching
> any wire to it and it is not immediately obvious to me whether i need to
> attach  that wire to some other  ground point - or ground the rack at some
> other
>
> point - or both?
>
> Thanks,
> Jack Mc
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tom628 at verizon.net

From tr4boy at surewest.net  Sun May 12 13:05:42 2013
From: tr4boy at surewest.net (Greg)
Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 12:05:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] Timing chain on its way out?
Message-ID: <AD75D9EB-87C2-481C-8022-CD11A1156D0D@surewest.net>

Listers,

I changed the oil in the 64 TR-4 yesterday and this little gem was stuck to
the magnetic drain plug.  Looks to me like my timing chain is coming apart,
but wanted to see if anybody else sees it differently.

If it is the timing chain, any tips and tricks or other thing to do while I've
got the cover off?

thanks,
Greg

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/JPG which had a name of IMG_0048.jpeg]

From McGaheyRx at aol.com  Sun May 12 13:10:50 2013
From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (Jack McGahey)
Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 15:10:50 -0400
Subject: [TR] Timing chain on its way out?
In-Reply-To: <AD75D9EB-87C2-481C-8022-CD11A1156D0D@surewest.net>
References: <AD75D9EB-87C2-481C-8022-CD11A1156D0D@surewest.net>
Message-ID: <CD8EA643-301E-4440-A1C7-85B4FF6758CB@aol.com>

Greg

Attachments do not come thru to the list  - can you describe the "little gem"
?

Sent from my iPhone

On May 12, 2013, at 3:05 PM, Greg <tr4boy at surewest.net> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> I changed the oil in the 64 TR-4 yesterday and this little gem was stuck to
> the magnetic drain plug.  Looks to me like my timing chain is coming apart,
> but wanted to see if anybody else sees it differently.
>
> If it is the timing chain, any tips and tricks or other thing to do while
I've
> got the cover off?
>
> thanks,
> Greg
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/JPG which had a name of
IMG_0048.jpeg]
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mcgaheyrx at aol.com

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sun May 12 13:36:51 2013
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 15:36:51 -0400
Subject: [TR] Timing chain on its way out?
In-Reply-To: <AD75D9EB-87C2-481C-8022-CD11A1156D0D@surewest.net>
References: <AD75D9EB-87C2-481C-8022-CD11A1156D0D@surewest.net>
Message-ID: <518FEF53.4050602@adelphia.net>

Greg,

Can you post the photo on the Triumph Forum?

If you have to pull the cover, replace the seal, and tensioner in 
addition to the chain.

Bob

On 05/12/2013 03:05 PM, Greg wrote:
> Listers,
>
> I changed the oil in the 64 TR-4 yesterday and this little gem was stuck to
> the magnetic drain plug.  Looks to me like my timing chain is coming apart,
> but wanted to see if anybody else sees it differently.
>
> If it is the timing chain, any tips and tricks or other thing to do while I've
> got the cover off?
>
> thanks,
> Greg

From tr4boy at surewest.net  Sun May 12 14:15:16 2013
From: tr4boy at surewest.net (Greg Schuett)
Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 13:15:16 -0700
Subject: [TR] Timing chain on its way out?
In-Reply-To: <CD8EA643-301E-4440-A1C7-85B4FF6758CB@aol.com>
References: <AD75D9EB-87C2-481C-8022-CD11A1156D0D@surewest.net>
	<CD8EA643-301E-4440-A1C7-85B4FF6758CB@aol.com>
Message-ID: <E54F5D0E-71F6-4AD5-A0DA-600A083AF794@surewest.net>

Jack

Ill resend again but it looks like a side plate off a chain link. About 3/4
inch long. Has two holes and the ends are rounded

On May 12, 2013, at 12:10 PM, Jack McGahey <McGaheyRx at aol.com> wrote:

> Greg
>
> Attachments do not come thru to the list  - can you describe the "little
gem" ?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On May 12, 2013, at 3:05 PM, Greg <tr4boy at surewest.net> wrote:
>
>> Listers,
>>
>> I changed the oil in the 64 TR-4 yesterday and this little gem was stuck
to
>> the magnetic drain plug.  Looks to me like my timing chain is coming
apart,
>> but wanted to see if anybody else sees it differently.
>>
>> If it is the timing chain, any tips and tricks or other thing to do while
I've
>> got the cover off?
>>
>> thanks,
>> Greg
>>
>> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/JPG which had a name of
IMG_0048.jpeg]
>>
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mcgaheyrx at aol.com

From tr4boy at surewest.net  Sun May 12 14:15:40 2013
From: tr4boy at surewest.net (Greg Schuett)
Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 13:15:40 -0700
Subject: [TR] Timing chain on its way out?
In-Reply-To: <518FEF53.4050602@adelphia.net>
References: <AD75D9EB-87C2-481C-8022-CD11A1156D0D@surewest.net>
	<518FEF53.4050602@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <C1D72962-E862-470D-9246-08D99609848E@surewest.net>

Will do. Thanks for the tips!

On May 12, 2013, at 12:36 PM, Bob Labuz <yellowtr at adelphia.net> wrote:

> Greg,
>
> Can you post the photo on the Triumph Forum?
>
> If you have to pull the cover, replace the seal, and tensioner in addition
to the chain.
>
> Bob
>
> On 05/12/2013 03:05 PM, Greg wrote:
>> Listers,
>>
>> I changed the oil in the 64 TR-4 yesterday and this little gem was stuck
to
>> the magnetic drain plug.  Looks to me like my timing chain is coming
apart,
>> but wanted to see if anybody else sees it differently.
>>
>> If it is the timing chain, any tips and tricks or other thing to do while
I've
>> got the cover off?
>>
>> thanks,
>> Greg

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Sun May 12 15:53:05 2013
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 17:53:05 -0400
Subject: [TR] it runs again
In-Reply-To: <23808198.30688.1368211336374.JavaMail.root@vms170035>
References: <23808198.30688.1368211336374.JavaMail.root@vms170035>
Message-ID: <CANhzkeO-1GEGDGUof0cvH3fkgZaLVRjbFmugtUfz1p+qkyDZpA@mail.gmail.com>

Yes! Be careful of the float bowl.

Those original shot glasses are getting hard to find.

From tr4boy at surewest.net  Sun May 12 21:45:56 2013
From: tr4boy at surewest.net (Greg Schuett)
Date: Sun, 12 May 2013 20:45:56 -0700
Subject: [TR] Timing chain on its way out?
In-Reply-To: <518FEF53.4050602@adelphia.net>
References: <AD75D9EB-87C2-481C-8022-CD11A1156D0D@surewest.net>
	<518FEF53.4050602@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <98A9507A-E35F-4AA9-AAA5-1501DD9843F5@surewest.net>

Bob

Just posted.  Thanks for the tips!

On May 12, 2013, at 12:36 PM, Bob Labuz <yellowtr at adelphia.net> wrote:

> Greg,
>
> Can you post the photo on the Triumph Forum?
>
> If you have to pull the cover, replace the seal, and tensioner in addition
to the chain.
>
> Bob
>
> On 05/12/2013 03:05 PM, Greg wrote:
>> Listers,
>>
>> I changed the oil in the 64 TR-4 yesterday and this little gem was stuck
to
>> the magnetic drain plug.  Looks to me like my timing chain is coming
apart,
>> but wanted to see if anybody else sees it differently.
>>
>> If it is the timing chain, any tips and tricks or other thing to do while
I've
>> got the cover off?
>>
>> thanks,
>> Greg

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Mon May 13 06:36:48 2013
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 08:36:48 -0400
Subject: [TR] Timing chain on its way out?
In-Reply-To: <98A9507A-E35F-4AA9-AAA5-1501DD9843F5@surewest.net>
References: <AD75D9EB-87C2-481C-8022-CD11A1156D0D@surewest.net>
	<518FEF53.4050602@adelphia.net>
	<98A9507A-E35F-4AA9-AAA5-1501DD9843F5@surewest.net>
Message-ID: <5190DE60.1020903@adelphia.net>

Greg,

Just logged into the forum. I see your post but the image does not show 
up, only the name: little gem.tiff. I tried both Firefox and Chrome. No 
image appears.

A note that the forum's website is very slow. Took about 5 minutes just 
to log in. The image link on Chrome shows what looks like a image icon 
with a dash through it - almost like is broken.

I have used the forum many times and have had no problem viewing images.

Bob

On 05/12/2013 11:45 PM, Greg Schuett wrote:
> Bob
>
> Just posted.  Thanks for the tips!
>
> On May 12, 2013, at 12:36 PM, Bob Labuz <yellowtr at adelphia.net> wrote:
>
>> Greg,
>>
>> Can you post the photo on the Triumph Forum?
>>
>> If you have to pull the cover, replace the seal, and tensioner in addition to the chain.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>> On 05/12/2013 03:05 PM, Greg wrote:
>>> Listers,
>>>
>>> I changed the oil in the 64 TR-4 yesterday and this little gem was stuck to
>>> the magnetic drain plug.  Looks to me like my timing chain is coming apart,
>>> but wanted to see if anybody else sees it differently.
>>>
>>> If it is the timing chain, any tips and tricks or other thing to do while I've
>>> got the cover off?
>>>
>>> thanks,
>>> Greg

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Mon May 13 06:41:49 2013
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 08:41:49 -0400
Subject: [TR] Timing chain on its way out?
In-Reply-To: <98A9507A-E35F-4AA9-AAA5-1501DD9843F5@surewest.net>
References: <AD75D9EB-87C2-481C-8022-CD11A1156D0D@surewest.net>
	<518FEF53.4050602@adelphia.net>
	<98A9507A-E35F-4AA9-AAA5-1501DD9843F5@surewest.net>
Message-ID: <5190DF8D.4050804@adelphia.net>

Greg,

I stand corrected. I right clicked on the image icon and I somehow got 
the photo to appear!

Yes that is a link from the chain for sure. I know of no other engine 
part or assembly it could be.

Since this in a 4, it should be minimal work to get the cover off.

WHen you do, inspect the old chain to insure no other parts are missing. 
Account for every part of the chain. You might have to drop the pan.

Bob

On 05/12/2013 11:45 PM, Greg Schuett wrote:
> Bob
>
> Just posted.  Thanks for the tips!
>
> On May 12, 2013, at 12:36 PM, Bob Labuz <yellowtr at adelphia.net> wrote:
>
>> Greg,
>>
>> Can you post the photo on the Triumph Forum?
>>
>> If you have to pull the cover, replace the seal, and tensioner in addition to the chain.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>> On 05/12/2013 03:05 PM, Greg wrote:
>>> Listers,
>>>
>>> I changed the oil in the 64 TR-4 yesterday and this little gem was stuck to
>>> the magnetic drain plug.  Looks to me like my timing chain is coming apart,
>>> but wanted to see if anybody else sees it differently.
>>>
>>> If it is the timing chain, any tips and tricks or other thing to do while I've
>>> got the cover off?
>>>
>>> thanks,
>>> Greg

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Mon May 13 07:57:53 2013
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 13:57:53 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] 'J' type from TR6
Message-ID: <1656766940.10220.1368453473668.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

List,



Has anyone tried to remove and replace a 'J' type overdrive w/o removing the
entire transmission from the car?B 



Ed Woods

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon May 13 09:14:46 2013
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 11:14:46 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] 'J' type from TR6
Message-ID: <8e6b3.6ca37054.3ec25d65@cs.com>

I have not but I think it is just about impossible* since there is not 
enough clearance behind the transmission to slide the OD unit off of the main 
shaft.  Reinstalling would be an exercise in frustration as well.  Keeping the 
splines on the sun gear and the sprag clutch aligned is tough enough when 
you do it right.

BTW, doing it right means securing the OD vertically with the output flange 
down and sliding the transmission and main shaft into the OD.  Trying to do 
it the other way will result in the clutch carrier dropping causing the 
afore mentioned splines which you just spent several minutes aligning to fall 
out of alignment.

Dave

*I said just about impossible because if I said it was impossible someone 
would cut out the driveshaft tunnel and handbrake mount just to prove me 
wrong.  There are ways to do just about anything but sometimes it is just easier 
to pull the transmission.

In a message dated 5/13/2013 8:58:52 AM Central Daylight Time, 
fogbro1 at comcast.net writes: 
> Has anyone tried to remove and replace a 'J' type overdrive w/o removing 
> the
> entire transmission from the car?B 

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Mon May 13 09:18:46 2013
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 08:18:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] 'J' type from TR6
In-Reply-To: <1656766940.10220.1368453473668.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1656766940.10220.1368453473668.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1368458326.67785.YahooMailNeo@web120003.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

yes
as i recall:
we took out the transmission mount cross member.
pushed the
transmission all the way up.
pulled the 1/2 drive shaft forward until it
disconnected and then pushed it back and out of the way.
we then pulled the
"J" all the way back till it disconnected.
it was way way tight.
 
but it was
a lot quicker and easier the second time we did it a week later !!!!!!!!!
 
 
Frank

From: "fogbro1 at comcast.net" <fogbro1 at comcast.net>
To: triumph list
<triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 6:57 AM
Subject: [TR]
'J' type from TR6


List,



Has anyone tried to remove and replace a 'J' type
overdrive w/o removing the
entire transmission from the car?B 



Ed Woods

**
triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From dave at ranteer.com  Mon May 13 13:31:43 2013
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 14:31:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] positive to negative ground
Message-ID: <8AFFE48F62CA41E1A667DCB7CD768865@Datsun>

here is an article from vtr http://www.vtr.org/maintain/negative-ground.shtml
on changing from positive to negative ground on a tr4.  obviously, a late tr3b
would be identical.

anyone have anything to add/comment?

thanks!

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Mon May 13 13:53:04 2013
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 12:53:04 -0700
Subject: [TR] positive to negative ground
In-Reply-To: <8AFFE48F62CA41E1A667DCB7CD768865@Datsun>
References: <8AFFE48F62CA41E1A667DCB7CD768865@Datsun>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bFdCwqKTVu5hpkO=O82U37ioUnK8wsfNoWvMKnPOT5LWw@mail.gmail.com>

If you are using Pertronix that unit will have to swapped for a negative
ground version.

Geo


On Mon, May 13, 2013 at 12:31 PM, Dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:

> here is an article from vtr
> http://www.vtr.org/maintain/negative-ground.shtml
> on changing from positive to negative ground on a tr4.  obviously, a late
> tr3b
> would be identical.
>
> anyone have anything to add/comment?

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon May 13 15:25:02 2013
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 21:25:02 +0000
Subject: [TR] positive to negative ground
In-Reply-To: <CANzE1bFdCwqKTVu5hpkO=O82U37ioUnK8wsfNoWvMKnPOT5LWw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20130513212502.YDH3C.12346.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>

---- Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com> wrote: 
> If you are using Pertronix that unit will have to swapped for a negative
> ground version.

Ditto most other electronic ignition conversions.  The only exception that I know of is the more recent Crane XR700 (with the LED on the box), which can just be rewired for negative.

Also if you happen to have an early original coil, the terminals may be marked "CB" and "SW" instead of "+" and "-".  "CB" is positive.

A slightly easier method of polarizing the generator is to just disconnect the wire from the 'F' terminal on the control box (battery installed, ignition off) and brush the disconnected wire against the 'A' terminal.  You'll get some small sparks, but nothing major.  Then reconnect the wire to the 'F' terminal and go on.

But the procedure in the VTR article will work fine.

Randall

From dave at ranteer.com  Mon May 13 16:49:41 2013
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 17:49:41 -0500
Subject: [TR] fan belt
Message-ID: <AD3E8CEECD47493FA85EBE481EAE5289@Datsun>

late tr3b/early tr4 b anyone have a flaps part number for the fan belt?

thanks!

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon May 13 19:11:52 2013
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 13 May 2013 18:11:52 -0700
Subject: [TR] fan belt
In-Reply-To: <AD3E8CEECD47493FA85EBE481EAE5289@Datsun>
Message-ID: <E0.F7.22955.A4F81915@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> late tr3b/early tr4 b anyone have a flaps part number for
> the fan belt?

Not likely to be on the shelf, but maybe: Gates TR28386

-- Randall

From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Tue May 14 11:46:10 2013
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 13:46:10 -0400
Subject: [TR] 3M Paint Defender Spray Film DIY Kit -- Any Experience?
Message-ID: <CAPK7CFAU5b_0wTk9Kv6SatCaQX8jONuG9d5NVnr1=3-K29M2+w@mail.gmail.com>

The 3M Paint Defender Spray Film kit looks pretty interesting.  And having
a good sized stone chip the TR3B's apron during the first five miles of
driving it after painting, it might be good insurance.

Anybody here have any experience with the stuff?

http://youtu.be/fi3hJYmtKR4

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Tue May 14 12:27:42 2013
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 11:27:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] 3M Paint Defender Spray Film DIY Kit -- Any  Experience?
In-Reply-To: <CAPK7CFAU5b_0wTk9Kv6SatCaQX8jONuG9d5NVnr1=3-K29M2+w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPK7CFAU5b_0wTk9Kv6SatCaQX8jONuG9d5NVnr1=3-K29M2+w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bE_MbcSWZXPD=cAhcQ5WVh-UjHbrcRworDDmD4id=5_Bg@mail.gmail.com>

Interesting -- and here's a video on how to remove the stuff:

https://mail.google.com/mail/u/1/?shva=1#inbox/13ea4281e7ab76c3

Geo


On Tue, May 14, 2013 at 10:46 AM, Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com> wrote:

> The 3M Paint Defender Spray Film kit looks pretty interesting.  And having
> a good sized stone chip the TR3B's apron during the first five miles of
> driving it after painting, it might be good insurance.
>
> Anybody here have any experience with the stuff?
>
> http://youtu.be/fi3hJYmtKR4
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com

From wbabbitt at sbcglobal.net  Tue May 14 13:35:19 2013
From: wbabbitt at sbcglobal.net (Bill Babbitt)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 15:35:19 -0400
Subject: [TR] 3M Paint Defender Spray Film DIY Kit -- Any  Experience?
In-Reply-To: <CAPK7CFAU5b_0wTk9Kv6SatCaQX8jONuG9d5NVnr1=3-K29M2+w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPK7CFAU5b_0wTk9Kv6SatCaQX8jONuG9d5NVnr1=3-K29M2+w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7B3DC826-FEED-42F4-8AAE-291FAB75B3AD@sbcglobal.net>

Don,
I used it for the entire underside of the body tub and inside the wheel wells
when it did the frame off restoration of my TR3a.
Haven't had a single paint chip.  Couldn't be more pleased.

Bill Babbitt
TR3a
Gales Ferry, CT

Sent from my iPhone

On May 14, 2013, at 1:46 PM, Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com> wrote:

> The 3M Paint Defender Spray Film kit looks pretty interesting.  And having
> a good sized stone chip the TR3B's apron during the first five miles of
> driving it after painting, it might be good insurance.
>
> Anybody here have any experience with the stuff?
>
> http://youtu.be/fi3hJYmtKR4
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbabbitt at sbcglobal.net

From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Tue May 14 14:34:47 2013
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 16:34:47 -0400
Subject: [TR] 3M Paint Defender Spray Film DIY Kit -- Any  Experience?
In-Reply-To: <7B3DC826-FEED-42F4-8AAE-291FAB75B3AD@sbcglobal.net>
References: <CAPK7CFAU5b_0wTk9Kv6SatCaQX8jONuG9d5NVnr1=3-K29M2+w@mail.gmail.com>
	<7B3DC826-FEED-42F4-8AAE-291FAB75B3AD@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <CAPK7CFBWZ3XPrdsD=wt2KbZuMS+LZ3m03jamGUv5syfUXvB6Aw@mail.gmail.com>

Bill, are you sure you're referring to the clear protection film -- as in
that used on the leading edge of the hood on top of the paint?

The application you're talking about sounds more like where 3M paintable
rubberized undercoating or spray shutz ("protection") is used.
http://3mcollision.com/products/sound-deadening/3m-paintable-undercoating-08882.html
http://3mcollision.com/products/coatings/3m-no-cleanup-high-coverage-body-schutz-coating-08964.html

Which are indeed good products.





On Tue, May 14, 2013 at 3:35 PM, Bill Babbitt <wbabbitt at sbcglobal.net>wrote:

> Don,
> I used it for the entire underside of the body tub and inside the wheel
> wells when it did the frame off restoration of my TR3a.
> Haven't had a single paint chip.  Couldn't be more pleased.
>
> Bill Babbitt
> TR3a
> Gales Ferry, CT
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On May 14, 2013, at 1:46 PM, Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > The 3M Paint Defender Spray Film kit looks pretty interesting.  And
> having
> > a good sized stone chip the TR3B's apron during the first five miles of
> > driving it after painting, it might be good insurance.
> >
> > Anybody here have any experience with the stuff?
> >
> > http://youtu.be/fi3hJYmtKR4
> >
> > ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbabbitt at sbcglobal.net

From wbeech at flash.net  Tue May 14 15:00:10 2013
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 16:00:10 -0500
Subject: [TR] fan belt
In-Reply-To: <AD3E8CEECD47493FA85EBE481EAE5289@Datsun>
References: <AD3E8CEECD47493FA85EBE481EAE5289@Datsun>
Message-ID: <E194F953F6F04534AF48074210BD69D7@bboffice>

I have a spare that is from TRF, but US made by Dayco.  P/N 24380GL

Bill

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 5:50 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] fan belt

late tr3b/early tr4 b anyone have a flaps part number for the fan belt?

thanks!

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Tue May 14 16:11:17 2013
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 15:11:17 -0700
Subject: [TR] 3M Paint Defender Spray Film DIY Kit -- Any  Experience?
In-Reply-To: <CANzE1bE_MbcSWZXPD=cAhcQ5WVh-UjHbrcRworDDmD4id=5_Bg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPK7CFAU5b_0wTk9Kv6SatCaQX8jONuG9d5NVnr1=3-K29M2+w@mail.gmail.com>
	<CANzE1bE_MbcSWZXPD=cAhcQ5WVh-UjHbrcRworDDmD4id=5_Bg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bEjUXL1uRzUd9xh=Qn6oMvUXROzaPQxxSo-wJs3LyhsTQ@mail.gmail.com>

Oops bad link in my prior message -- hopefully here is the one showing how
easily you can remove Paint Defender (and noting that it lasts at least
one year)...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=fi3hJYmtKR4

On Tue, May 14, 2013 at 11:27 AM, Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com> wrote:

> Interesting -- and here's a video on how to remove the stuff:

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Tue May 14 16:15:00 2013
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 15:15:00 -0700
Subject: [TR] 3M Paint Defender Spray Film DIY Kit -- Any  Experience?
In-Reply-To: <CANzE1bEjUXL1uRzUd9xh=Qn6oMvUXROzaPQxxSo-wJs3LyhsTQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPK7CFAU5b_0wTk9Kv6SatCaQX8jONuG9d5NVnr1=3-K29M2+w@mail.gmail.com>
	<CANzE1bE_MbcSWZXPD=cAhcQ5WVh-UjHbrcRworDDmD4id=5_Bg@mail.gmail.com>
	<CANzE1bEjUXL1uRzUd9xh=Qn6oMvUXROzaPQxxSo-wJs3LyhsTQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bHv3N=fZbHjZBng4WvaZM3jtHa7qBoBHUVr5xCkkzS8EQ@mail.gmail.com>

Oh brother, my final attempt to link the "Defender Removal" video --

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JkT12MvuuRA&feature=endscreen&NR=1


On Tue, May 14, 2013 at 3:11 PM, Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com> wrote:

> Oops bad link in my prior message -- hopefully here is the one showing how
> easily you can remove Paint Defender (and noting that it lasts at least
> one year)...
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=fi3hJYmtKR4
>
> On Tue, May 14, 2013 at 11:27 AM, Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Interesting -- and here's a video on how to remove the stuff:

From pryner at verizon.net  Tue May 14 17:04:49 2013
From: pryner at verizon.net (Pete Ryner)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 19:04:49 -0400
Subject: [TR] 3M Paint Defender Spray Film DIY Kit -- Any   Experience?
In-Reply-To: <CANzE1bHv3N=fZbHjZBng4WvaZM3jtHa7qBoBHUVr5xCkkzS8EQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPK7CFAU5b_0wTk9Kv6SatCaQX8jONuG9d5NVnr1=3-K29M2+w@mail.gmail.com>
	<CANzE1bE_MbcSWZXPD=cAhcQ5WVh-UjHbrcRworDDmD4id=5_Bg@mail.gmail.com>
	<CANzE1bEjUXL1uRzUd9xh=Qn6oMvUXROzaPQxxSo-wJs3LyhsTQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<CANzE1bHv3N=fZbHjZBng4WvaZM3jtHa7qBoBHUVr5xCkkzS8EQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <0F4E5BDDF93847E8BB5CC20AA5EC5AD1@HomePC>

This stuff looks interesting.  While doing some internet searching I found a 
guy selling what appears to be this product on ebay.  He is asking about 5 
times the cost on Amazon.  The one difference is that he states DO NOT USE 
ON WHITE PAINT.  Is there a restriction with the 3M?
TIA
Pete

-----Original Message----- 
From: Geo Hahn
Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2013 6:15 PM
Cc: Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] 3M Paint Defender Spray Film DIY Kit -- Any Experience?

Oh brother, my final attempt to link the "Defender Removal" video --

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JkT12MvuuRA&feature=endscreen&NR=1


On Tue, May 14, 2013 at 3:11 PM, Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com> wrote:

> Oops bad link in my prior message -- hopefully here is the one showing how
> easily you can remove Paint Defender (and noting that it lasts at least
> one year)...
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=fi3hJYmtKR4
>
> On Tue, May 14, 2013 at 11:27 AM, Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Interesting -- and here's a video on how to remove the stuff:

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From wbeech at flash.net  Tue May 14 17:26:55 2013
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 18:26:55 -0500
Subject: [TR] 1958 TR3A at GullWing Motors
Message-ID: <DBEE66F6607943F89CA6E8C26617C7C5@bboffice>

I used to think these folks understood cars and values...... This is a
$4500. car?  Maybe they missed a decimal place?
 
http://www.gullwingmotorcars.com/1958-triumph-tr3-convertible-c-952.htm?sear
chtype=bymm
<http://www.gullwingmotorcars.com/1958-triumph-tr3-convertible-c-952.htm?sea
rchtype=bymm&make=TRIUMPH&model=ALL&bodytype=ALL>
&make=TRIUMPH&model=ALL&bodytype=ALL&
 
 
Absolutely NFI,
BB

From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Tue May 14 17:38:16 2013
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 19:38:16 -0400
Subject: [TR] 1958 TR3A at GullWing Motors
In-Reply-To: <DBEE66F6607943F89CA6E8C26617C7C5@bboffice>
References: <DBEE66F6607943F89CA6E8C26617C7C5@bboffice>
Message-ID: <9FBDE17C00DA4027886DA0715A5B3629@UserTHINK>

Must be a rare prototype!


-----Original Message----- 
From: wbeech at flash.net
Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2013 7:26 PM
To: 'Listserv Triumph'
Subject: [TR] 1958 TR3A at GullWing Motors

I used to think these folks understood cars and values...... This is a
$4500. car?  Maybe they missed a decimal place?

http://www.gullwingmotorcars.com/1958-triumph-tr3-convertible-c-952.htm?sear
chtype=bymm
<http://www.gullwingmotorcars.com/1958-triumph-tr3-convertible-c-952.htm?sea
rchtype=bymm&make=TRIUMPH&model=ALL&bodytype=ALL>
&make=TRIUMPH&model=ALL&bodytype=ALL&


Absolutely NFI,
BB

From wbabbitt at sbcglobal.net  Tue May 14 17:39:32 2013
From: wbabbitt at sbcglobal.net (Bill Babbitt)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 19:39:32 -0400
Subject: [TR] 3M Paint Defender Spray Film DIY Kit -- Any   Experience?
In-Reply-To: <CAPK7CFBWZ3XPrdsD=wt2KbZuMS+LZ3m03jamGUv5syfUXvB6Aw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPK7CFAU5b_0wTk9Kv6SatCaQX8jONuG9d5NVnr1=3-K29M2+w@mail.gmail.com>
	<7B3DC826-FEED-42F4-8AAE-291FAB75B3AD@sbcglobal.net>
	<CAPK7CFBWZ3XPrdsD=wt2KbZuMS+LZ3m03jamGUv5syfUXvB6Aw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <E619D9D7-CEAB-4661-86CB-FB40871D447D@sbcglobal.net>

Nope,
What I used was a clear rubberized spray on coating that I sprayed on on top
of the fresh yellow paint.


Sent from my iPhone

On May 14, 2013, at 4:34 PM, Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com> wrote:

> Bill, are you sure you're referring to the clear protection film -- as in
> that used on the leading edge of the hood on top of the paint?
>
> The application you're talking about sounds more like where 3M paintable
> rubberized undercoating or spray shutz ("protection") is used.
>
http://3mcollision.com/products/sound-deadening/3m-paintable-undercoating-088
82.html
>
http://3mcollision.com/products/coatings/3m-no-cleanup-high-coverage-body-sch
utz-coating-08964.html
>
> Which are indeed good products.
>
>
>
>
>
> On Tue, May 14, 2013 at 3:35 PM, Bill Babbitt
<wbabbitt at sbcglobal.net>wrote:
>
>> Don,
>> I used it for the entire underside of the body tub and inside the wheel
>> wells when it did the frame off restoration of my TR3a.
>> Haven't had a single paint chip.  Couldn't be more pleased.
>>
>> Bill Babbitt
>> TR3a
>> Gales Ferry, CT
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On May 14, 2013, at 1:46 PM, Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> The 3M Paint Defender Spray Film kit looks pretty interesting.  And
>> having
>>> a good sized stone chip the TR3B's apron during the first five miles of
>>> driving it after painting, it might be good insurance.
>>>
>>> Anybody here have any experience with the stuff?
>>>
>>> http://youtu.be/fi3hJYmtKR4
>>>
>>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbabbitt at sbcglobal.net
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbabbitt at sbcglobal.net

From dconnitt at fuse.net  Tue May 14 17:45:14 2013
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 19:45:14 -0400
Subject: [TR] 1958 TR3A at GullWing Motors
In-Reply-To: <DBEE66F6607943F89CA6E8C26617C7C5@bboffice>
References: <DBEE66F6607943F89CA6E8C26617C7C5@bboffice>
Message-ID: <ACB6D2509ED3472CBF12577C4F1F7301@DaveLaptop>

I am impressed with the clever use of steel shelving struts to rebuilt the 
chassis.
I guess if you wait long enough you will see just about anything.
Dave Connitt


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <wbeech at flash.net>
To: "'Listserv Triumph'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2013 7:26 PM
Subject: [TR] 1958 TR3A at GullWing Motors


>I used to think these folks understood cars and values...... This is a
> $4500. car?  Maybe they missed a decimal place?
>
> http://www.gullwingmotorcars.com/1958-triumph-tr3-convertible-c-952.htm?sear
> chtype=bymm
> <http://www.gullwingmotorcars.com/1958-triumph-tr3-convertible-c-952.htm?sea
> rchtype=bymm&make=TRIUMPH&model=ALL&bodytype=ALL>
> &make=TRIUMPH&model=ALL&bodytype=ALL&
>
>
> Absolutely NFI,
> BB
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dconnitt at fuse.net 

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Tue May 14 17:49:27 2013
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 18:49:27 -0500
Subject: [TR] Joyride
Message-ID: <E1622A5D16634C80839AB0B2B018AC44@livingroompc>

Don't usually do this, but here is a link to our local club newsletter, this
article brought a big smile to my face, and I thought it might to others too,
so I thought I would share it.

http://flatwater.org/news/may13.pdf

Turn to page 3, "Take a Kid for a Ride"

Regards, Greg Lemon

From spook01 at comcast.net  Tue May 14 18:11:35 2013
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 19:11:35 -0500
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?1958_TR3A_at_GullWing_Motors?=
Message-ID: <mailman.18.1368576869.1861.triumphs@autox.team.net>

Looks like the $4500.00 car was in a fire.....

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: wbeech at flash.net
To: "'Listserv Triumph'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] 1958 TR3A at GullWing Motors
Date: Tue, May 14, 2013 18:26


I used to think these folks understood cars and values...... This is a
$4500. car?  Maybe they missed a decimal place?
 
http://www.gullwingmotorcars.com/1958-triumph-tr3-convertible-c-952.htm?sear
chtype=bymm
<http://www.gullwingmotorcars.com/1958-triumph-tr3-convertible-c-952.htm?sea
rchtype=bymm&make=TRIUMPH&model=ALL&bodytype=ALL>
&make=TRIUMPH&model=ALL&bodytype=ALL&
 
 
Absolutely NFI,
BB

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net

From wbeech at flash.net  Tue May 14 18:26:38 2013
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 19:26:38 -0500
Subject: [TR] 1958 TR3A at GullWing Motors
In-Reply-To: <201305150011.r4F0BcSp022155@nlpi164.prodigy.net>
References: <201305150011.r4F0BcSp022155@nlpi164.prodigy.net>
Message-ID: <8F2C4A10B3D74BD08747752517381440@bboffice>

Yeah, and they put it out by throwing in a lake for a few years.

  _____  

From: spook01 at comcast.net [mailto:spook01 at comcast.net] 
Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2013 7:12 PM
To: wbeech at flash.net; 'Listserv Triumph'
Subject: Re: [TR] 1958 TR3A at GullWing Motors


Looks like the $4500.00 car was in a fire.....

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: wbeech at flash.net
To: "'Listserv Triumph'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] 1958 TR3A at GullWing Motors
Date: Tue, May 14, 2013 18:26


I used to think these folks understood cars and values...... This is a
$4500. car?  Maybe they missed a decimal place?

http://www.gullwingmotorcars.com/1958-triumph-tr3-convertible-c-952.htm?sear
chtype=bymm
<http://www.gullwingmotorcars.com/1958-triumph-tr3-convertible-c-952.htm?sea
rchtype=bymm&make=TRIUMPH&model=ALL&bodytype=ALL>
&make=TRIUMPH&model=ALL&bodytype=ALL&


Absolutely NFI,
BB

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net

From l1j1s at aol.com  Tue May 14 20:09:34 2013
From: l1j1s at aol.com (Lawrence Schwartz)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 22:09:34 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tr3- Gullwing
Message-ID: <797C49D8-BE25-4F79-842D-D64146713376@aol.com>

List, I don't live to far from Gullwing Motors. I will stop by to do a visual
inspection. Larry Schwartx

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Tue May 14 20:27:22 2013
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 22:27:22 -0400
Subject: [TR] Joyride
In-Reply-To: <E1622A5D16634C80839AB0B2B018AC44@livingroompc>
References: <E1622A5D16634C80839AB0B2B018AC44@livingroompc>
Message-ID: <007201ce5113$bba11e50$32e35af0$@verizon.net>

Thank you.
With your permission I will link to our club website...


Carl
1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 
Tampa, FL

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Greg Lemon
Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2013 7:49 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Joyride

Don't usually do this, but here is a link to our local club newsletter, this
article brought a big smile to my face, and I thought it might to others
too, so I thought I would share it.

http://flatwater.org/news/may13.pdf

Turn to page 3, "Take a Kid for a Ride"

Regards, Greg Lemon

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net

From dlhogye at comcast.net  Tue May 14 20:49:10 2013
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye)
Date: Wed, 15 May 2013 02:49:10 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Tr3- Gullwing
In-Reply-To: <797C49D8-BE25-4F79-842D-D64146713376@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1720826885.1921919.1368586150428.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Really? 
I think we can see all that we need to see. Wow, what a joke. It would be worth 450 if the apron was still usable, that's looks questionable. Ok, so go look at it to see if the apron is any good. 
I love cars and always have, but this is part of what's wrong with the automobile business. This guy should give it away to the first interested party. I'd bet that's how he got it. $450 might be reasonable. 


Dave H. 

----- Original Message -----
From: "Lawrence Schwartz" <l1j1s at aol.com> 
To: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2013 7:09:34 PM 
Subject: [TR] Tr3- Gullwing 

List, I don't live to far from Gullwing Motors. I will stop by to do a visual 
inspection. Larry Schwartx 

** triumphs at autox.team.net ** 

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye at comcast.net 

From mdporter at dfn.com  Tue May 14 21:00:56 2013
From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 21:00:56 -0600
Subject: [TR] 1958 TR3A at GullWing Motors
In-Reply-To: <DBEE66F6607943F89CA6E8C26617C7C5@bboffice>
References: <DBEE66F6607943F89CA6E8C26617C7C5@bboffice>
Message-ID: <5192FA68.6030607@dfn.com>

On 5/14/2013 5:26 PM, wbeech at flash.net wrote:
> I used to think these folks understood cars and values...... This is a
> $4500. car?  Maybe they missed a decimal place?
>   
>

Oh.my.goodness.  If one were to buy (if they were still available) all 
new parts necessary to make up a complete car, it would probably cost 
less than it would take to put this car right.  Now, I can see taking 
this on as a challenge, if one had nothing else to do and had a lot of 
spare cash, but, geez, the least they could do would be to give a guy a 
couple of hundred bucks to help with the towing, instead of trying to 
charge cash money for this, uh, umm, uh (nope, car isn't quite right, is 
it?), umm, _approximation_ of an automobile.


Cheers.

-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....

From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Tue May 14 21:34:51 2013
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Tue, 14 May 2013 22:34:51 -0500
Subject: [TR] 1958 TR3A at GullWing Motors
In-Reply-To: <DBEE66F6607943F89CA6E8C26617C7C5@bboffice>
References: <DBEE66F6607943F89CA6E8C26617C7C5@bboffice>
Message-ID: <CAPK7CFCmbXJXs9FOP1iNv_tq0WH7OTJ3=QPZKWSd=9-96+dbVQ@mail.gmail.com>

Reminds me of a story a friend of mine, a vintage fountain pen dealer,
told me about a conversation early in his career.

He was selling perfectly good, and reasonably collectible, Parker "51"
fountain pens for something like $125.  Some of the old guard dealers
came to him to let him know his prices were too low -- that they were
all selling those pens for something like $250.

Bob laughed at them.  He said "you're ASKING $250 for them.  I'm
SELLING them at $125."  The guys went back to their tables muttering,
stuck to their guns, and continued to bring the same pens to every
show.  And Bob has financed his retirement with his ability to know
what something's worth.

To those folks holding out hope that something will be worth a given
value just because they REALLY want it to be... good luck to them.
They should plan on keeping whatever it is a very long time.


On 5/14/13, wbeech at flash.net <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:
> I used to think these folks understood cars and values...... This is a
> $4500. car?  Maybe they missed a decimal place?
>
> http://www.gullwingmotorcars.com/1958-triumph-tr3-convertible-c-952.htm?sear
> chtype=bymm
> <http://www.gullwingmotorcars.com/1958-triumph-tr3-convertible-c-952.htm?sea
> rchtype=bymm&make=TRIUMPH&model=ALL&bodytype=ALL>
> &make=TRIUMPH&model=ALL&bodytype=ALL&
>
>
> Absolutely NFI,
> BB
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com

From carlsereda at aol.com  Wed May 15 01:43:51 2013
From: carlsereda at aol.com (Carl Sereda)
Date: Wed, 15 May 2013 03:43:51 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] DIXON CA British Car/Swap Meet, May 19th
Message-ID: <8D01F5713F9C427-EE8-24D3D@webmail-m209.sysops.aol.com>

Hi listers;


The United British Sports Car Club of Sacramento


is conducting its 2013 Annual All British Motor Vehicle Show and Swap Meet


this Sunday May 19th 2013.


This is one of my favorite events as it has an extensive Swap Meet and
pleasant environment for cars


It's returned to the preferred DIXON Fairgrounds, Dixon CA  (last few years at
Yolo Fairgrounds CA)


Hope to see many of you there! See link below for more information.


Carl


'63 TR4 since '74



http://www.ubscc.org/CarShow.htm

From zoboherald at aol.com  Wed May 15 08:12:31 2013
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace)
Date: Wed, 15 May 2013 10:12:31 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] 1958 TR3A at GullWing Motors
In-Reply-To: <5192FA68.6030607@dfn.com>
References: <DBEE66F6607943F89CA6E8C26617C7C5@bboffice>
	<5192FA68.6030607@dfn.com>
Message-ID: <8D01F8D5F577504-2024-202BB@webmail-d220.sysops.aol.com>

 Michael Porter mused:


Oh.my.goodness.  If one were to buy (if they were still available) all
new parts necessary to make up a complete car, it would probably cost
less than it would take to put this car right.

 I don't think anyone is still casting wet-liner blocks or gearbox cases, and
I suspect that new rear axle housings also are not readily available. But one
can get complete, new bodies out of England, chassis from RAT-CO...and just
about everything else from the usual suspects. Given the asking price on some
current "show" cars, I think Michael's assessment is spot-on!

Several years ago, I was surprised and pleased to have been offered $1500 for
one of my TR3As. It needed pretty much EVERYTHING, but it was "showroom"
compared to the "Gullwing" car. The other 3A I had wasn't quite as good, and I
got $700 for that (including a hardtop that needed a lot of work but was
straight and fairly solid).



--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us

From pethier at comcast.net  Wed May 15 08:34:47 2013
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 15 May 2013 14:34:47 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] 1958 TR3A at GullWing Motors
In-Reply-To: <8D01F8D5F577504-2024-202BB@webmail-d220.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <1750464812.864020.1368628487580.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

About Gullwing, see 
http://bringatrailer.com/2013/05/14/v8-powered-1965-jaguar-xke-coupe

But for a real fright pig, see
http://bringatrailer.com/2013/05/10/matching-numbers-nightmare-1969-chevrolet-camaro-rsss-396-convertible/

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier at comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

----- Original Message -----
> From: "Andrew S. Mace" <zoboherald at aol.com>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 9:12:31 AM
> Subject: Re: [TR] 1958 TR3A at GullWing Motors
> Michael Porter mused:
> 
> 
> Oh.my.goodness. If one were to buy (if they were still available) all
> new parts necessary to make up a complete car, it would probably cost
> less than it would take to put this car right.
> 
> I don't think anyone is still casting wet-liner blocks or gearbox
> cases, and
> I suspect that new rear axle housings also are not readily available.
> But one
> can get complete, new bodies out of England, chassis from RAT-CO...and
> just
> about everything else from the usual suspects. Given the asking price
> on some
> current "show" cars, I think Michael's assessment is spot-on!
> 
> Several years ago, I was surprised and pleased to have been offered
> $1500 for
> one of my TR3As. It needed pretty much EVERYTHING, but it was
> "showroom"
> compared to the "Gullwing" car. The other 3A I had wasn't quite as
> good, and I
> got $700 for that (including a hardtop that needed a lot of work but
> was
> straight and fairly solid).
> 
> 
> 
> --Andy Mace
> 
> *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
> *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er,
> Triumph
> Herald engine with wings.
> -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)
> 
> Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
> Register: http://www.vtr.org
> 
> Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph
> Herald
> Database: http://triumph-herald.us
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net

From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com  Wed May 15 13:08:39 2013
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Wed, 15 May 2013 12:08:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Rough running engine
Message-ID: <1368644919.85058.YahooMailNeo@web160101.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Hi List!
How important is proper backpressure on the TRIUMPH engine running?  
Not on the body of a person.
 
My car is running rough, & I've all ready
replaced the Battery (over 10Yr. old), & the coil with another that helped the
car run better It's not new & I don't know how good it is because I was told
that there is NO WAY it can be bench tested. Is this a true statement?

-Cosmo
Kramer

From darrellw360 at mac.com  Wed May 15 13:20:35 2013
From: darrellw360 at mac.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Wed, 15 May 2013 19:20:35 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] Rough running engine
In-Reply-To: <1368644919.85058.YahooMailNeo@web160101.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <ce4c1e35-e533-47a7-bf5b-2c54d44802a0@me.com>

Hi Cosmo,

Only anecdotal evidence, but long ago I had only a header on my
car (had pulled the engine to rebuild, and the front muffler was shot so I
just cut it out).  It ran like crap to the muffler shop to get something else
welded in, much better after that.  So on some level, more back pressure (or
just pipe) that the header is needed.

-Darrell

From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com  Wed May 15 13:49:32 2013
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Wed, 15 May 2013 12:49:32 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Rough runnig engine #2
Message-ID: <1368647372.75257.YahooMailNeo@web160105.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Hi List!
What are the signs of needing to change points & condensor?

-Cosmo Kramer

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Wed May 15 13:56:55 2013
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Wed, 15 May 2013 12:56:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Rough runnig engine #2
In-Reply-To: <1368647372.75257.YahooMailNeo@web160105.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1368647372.75257.YahooMailNeo@web160105.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1368647815.19328.YahooMailNeo@web120006.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

having to walk !!!!!


From: Cosmo Kramer <tr4a2712 at yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" <triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 12:49 PM
Subject: [TR] Rough runnig engine #2


Hi List!
What are the signs of needing to change points & condensor?

-Cosmo Kramer

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Wed May 15 14:08:38 2013
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Wed, 15 May 2013 16:08:38 -0400
Subject: [TR] Rough running engine
In-Reply-To: <1368644919.85058.YahooMailNeo@web160101.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1368644919.85058.YahooMailNeo@web160101.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <5193EB46.3000109@adelphia.net>

Cosmo,

Use an ohm meter to check the coil. I cant remember the exact # of ohms 
but someone will post it I am sure.

On a stock 4A should be the same as a 3, 4 or up to 72 TR6.

Bob

On 05/15/2013 03:08 PM, Cosmo Kramer wrote:
> Hi List!
> How important is proper backpressure on the TRIUMPH engine running?
> Not on the body of a person.
>   
> My car is running rough, & I've all ready
> replaced the Battery (over 10Yr. old), & the coil with another that helped the
> car run better It's not new & I don't know how good it is because I was told
> that there is NO WAY it can be bench tested. Is this a true statement?
>
> -Cosmo
> Kramer

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Wed May 15 14:10:09 2013
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Wed, 15 May 2013 16:10:09 -0400
Subject: [TR] Rough runnig engine #2
In-Reply-To: <1368647372.75257.YahooMailNeo@web160105.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1368647372.75257.YahooMailNeo@web160105.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <5193EBA1.3010204@adelphia.net>

Cosmo,

If you have a new set, it is the best sign if you suspect something is 
wrong. Only way to find out sometime is to start replacing with new or 
trusted parts.

Bob

On 05/15/2013 03:49 PM, Cosmo Kramer wrote:
> Hi List!
> What are the signs of needing to change points & condensor?
>
> -Cosmo Kramer

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Wed May 15 14:41:58 2013
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Wed, 15 May 2013 13:41:58 -0700
Subject: [TR] Rough runnig engine #2
In-Reply-To: <5193EBA1.3010204@adelphia.net>
References: <1368647372.75257.YahooMailNeo@web160105.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<5193EBA1.3010204@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <5193F316.3040207@gmail.com>

When a condenser is going out the engine will start the odd miss which 
will become more frequent then to the point where it is missing enough 
that the vehicle will hardly idle.

If points short or open up (I've never seen this on a vehicle with 
functioning points)  the engine will immediately die.

If points slip the engine will have less power and stumble all over 
itself whenever you try to apply power.  It might start & idle OK but 
the engine stumbles if you try to apply power. Currently available 
points are nowhere as good as they used to be.  Check for pitting & 
buildup on the point surfaces. Resurface with a jewelers flat file if 
needed. Reset the point gap.  Most of the time the point gap has 
slipped.  Frozen mechanical advance or bad vacuum advance can act like 
slipped points so be sure to check them as well.

While you have the cap off be sure to look for carbon tracking on the 
inside of the cap and for deep pitting. Make sure the centre contact is 
making contact with the rotor.  Sometimes the rotor can be sanded at the 
contact areas to get off carbon buildup.

TeriAnn
>
> On 05/15/2013 03:49 PM, Cosmo Kramer wrote:
>> Hi List!
>> What are the signs of needing to change points & condensor?
>>
>> -Cosmo Kramer

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Wed May 15 15:02:42 2013
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Wed, 15 May 2013 14:02:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] Rough running engine
In-Reply-To: <1368644919.85058.YahooMailNeo@web160101.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1368644919.85058.YahooMailNeo@web160101.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <5193F7F2.6040508@gmail.com>

On 5/15/13 12:08 PM, Cosmo Kramer wrote:
> My car is running rough, & I've all ready
> replaced the Battery (over 10Yr. old), & the coil with another that helped the
> car run better It's not new & I don't know how good it is because I was told
> that there is NO WAY it can be bench tested. Is this a true statement?
>
Malarkey!

There are automotive volt meters that measure the output of a coil. You 
place a connector between the coil centre and the coil centre wire and 
connect the meter's ground connection to ground.  Fire up the engine and 
it will tell you the voltage generated by your coil. Mind you worn 
points, incorrectly adjusted points a tired condenser and bade centre 
spark plug wire can cause a low voltage output at the coil.

Assuming your battery is fully charged you can get a rough idea with a 
simple spark test between the centre wire and ground (engine off, 
ignition on).

TeriAnn

From dave at ranteer.com  Wed May 15 15:37:30 2013
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Wed, 15 May 2013 16:37:30 -0500
Subject: [TR] Rough runnig engine #2
In-Reply-To: <5193F316.3040207@gmail.com>
References: <1368647372.75257.YahooMailNeo@web160105.mail.bf1.yahoo.com><5193EBA1.3010204@adelphia.net>
	<5193F316.3040207@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <353779A0B4A4413A93F0B253313B4B20@Datsun>

here are numerous links on how to test a coil from youtube

http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=test+ignition+coil&oq=test+ignition&gs_l=youtube.3.0.0l6j0i5l3.1673.5590.0.7288.15.14.1.0.0.0.135.1278.10j4.14.0...0.0...1ac.1.11.youtube.Dsxu_v-lwdM

I know that mossmotors has a good one - you might search on that within 
youtube 

From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk  Wed May 15 16:07:32 2013
From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Wed, 15 May 2013 23:07:32 +0100 (BST)
Subject: [TR] Rough runnig engine #2
In-Reply-To: <353779A0B4A4413A93F0B253313B4B20@Datsun>
References: <1368647372.75257.YahooMailNeo@web160105.mail.bf1.yahoo.com><5193EBA1.3010204@adelphia.net>
	<5193F316.3040207@gmail.com> <353779A0B4A4413A93F0B253313B4B20@Datsun>
Message-ID: <1368655652.87925.YahooMailNeo@web171906.mail.ir2.yahoo.com>

If its still rough after checking coil, points and condenser - or 'not quite
as rough' check the distributor cap for hairline cracks. I've replaced three
or four down the years when misfires and lack of power suggested duff points
or condensers. Those were OK but the dizzy caps weren't.
 
Jonmac
>________________________________
> From: Dave <dave at ranteer.com>
>To: Triumph
List <triumphs at autox.team.net> 
>Sent: Wednesday, 15 May 2013, 22:37
>Subject:
Re: [TR] Rough runnig engine #2
>  
>
>here are numerous links on how to test
a coil from youtube
>
>http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=test+ignition+coil&oq=test+ignit
ion&gs_l=youtube.3.0.0l6j0i5l3.1673.5590.0.7288.15.14.1.0.0.0.135.1278.10j4.1
4.0...0.0...1ac.1.11.youtube.Dsxu_v-lwdM
>
>I know that mossmotors has a good
one - you might search on that within 
>youtube 
>
>** triumphs at autox.team.net
**
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed May 15 16:20:06 2013
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 15 May 2013 22:20:06 +0000
Subject: [TR] Rough running engine
In-Reply-To: <5193EB46.3000109@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <20130515222006.LD6VC.46971.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>

---- Bob Labuz <yellowtr at adelphia.net> wrote: 
> Cosmo,
> 
> Use an ohm meter to check the coil. I cant remember the exact # of ohms 
> but someone will post it I am sure.
> 
> On a stock 4A should be the same as a 3, 4 or up to 72 TR6.

Between the two side terminals = 3 ohms.  Center (spark) terminal to either side terminal can vary, anything within roughly 8Kohm to 15Kohm is probably OK.
Any terminal to case should show open circuit (infinite ohms).

Not an exhaustive test, but should catch at least 80% or so of coil failures.

Randall

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Wed May 15 18:31:01 2013
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Wed, 15 May 2013 17:31:01 -0700
Subject: [TR] Big Blow By -- TR3A
Message-ID: <CANzE1bEGVPDdaew5YjG4hrR9U==_rVLmnYRx_jwOecea2cXC6g@mail.gmail.com>

My TR3A engine is blowing lots of smelly but only slightly visible fumes
out of the breather tube.  Enough that is was clearly noticeable to those
unfortunate enough to be following me when I got on it.  My interpretation
was a massive amount of blow-by from one or more cylinders.

A compression check yielded:

1 - 135#
2 - 140#
3 - 135#
4 - 85#

Adding oil into #4 did not raise compression at all so I thought it
unlikely to be the rings.

A leak down test on #4 sent copious amounts of air out the breather tube.

Took the head off this morning -- no hole in #4 piston and the gasket shows
no noticeable (to my eye) signs of failing around #4 cylinder.

Anyway, head gasket failures I have had have always been either coolant
into the cylinder or combustion products into the coolant -- the rim of the
cylinder is a (relatively) long way from the oil galleys.

I will note that the projection of the liners above the deck is very slight
so I do plan to use 'Randall's Fire Ring' 26awg copper wire enhancement on
the next gasket.

Now my choices -- put an 'improved' head gasket back on, torque the head
down and do another leak-down test or...

Open up the bottom end and push #4 piston out to see what the rings look
like.

Would a broken ring produce the problem & numbers I am seeing?

Is there something else I am completely missing?

Thanks for any advice, guesses or sympathy.

Geo

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed May 15 19:23:15 2013
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 15 May 2013 18:23:15 -0700
Subject: [TR] Big Blow By -- TR3A
In-Reply-To: <CANzE1bEGVPDdaew5YjG4hrR9U==_rVLmnYRx_jwOecea2cXC6g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <50.F9.16585.FF434915@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

Definitely pull #4 piston.  Sounds like a broken ring, or maybe broken
piston to me.

Can't be the head gasket, or there would be coolant involved.

Don't forget to clamp the liners, as you'll most likely have to turn the
crank to get #4 apart.

-- Randall 

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Wed May 15 19:53:51 2013
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Wed, 15 May 2013 21:53:51 -0400
Subject: [TR] Big Blow By -- TR3A
In-Reply-To: <50.F9.16585.FF434915@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
References: <CANzE1bEGVPDdaew5YjG4hrR9U==_rVLmnYRx_jwOecea2cXC6g@mail.gmail.com>
	<50.F9.16585.FF434915@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <CANhzkeOa2=qELzfekqo8ZXKYEE8rddJw_LtUb2q+fGWEUthhNw@mail.gmail.com>

+1 for Randall.  I've got a blow by problem i need to address as well.

At stop signs i have good smoke coming out ....

From wbeech at flash.net  Wed May 15 22:27:51 2013
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Wed, 15 May 2013 23:27:51 -0500
Subject: [TR] Big Blow By -- TR3A
In-Reply-To: <CANzE1bEGVPDdaew5YjG4hrR9U==_rVLmnYRx_jwOecea2cXC6g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANzE1bEGVPDdaew5YjG4hrR9U==_rVLmnYRx_jwOecea2cXC6g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <A7D44F6C67C54598BFC93C9C540F79E0@bboffice>

I should think you will see traces of failue if it is indeed the head
gasket.  Have you given the head and the #4 valves a good check and test?
Stand the head on edge with the ports facing up and pour some gas into them
and look for a leak.  Maganaflux the head, could be a crack that you can't
see when it is cold.

If you broke a ring, I should look for signs of scoring in the bore.  You
didn't mention if this is something that came on quickly or over time.  A
burned piston will usually leave debris on the plug electrode.  You might
even pour an inch of gas into the cylinder and see how fast it seeps
through, don't forget to change the oil.

This is a perfect example as to why everyone should have a spare TR in the
garage, enjoy your TR4 this weekend.

All the best,
Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Even if you are on the right track, you'll get run over if you just sit
there"  Will Rodgers



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Geo Hahn
Sent: Wednesday, May 15, 2013 7:31 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] Big Blow By -- TR3A

My TR3A engine is blowing lots of smelly but only slightly visible fumes out
of the breather tube.  Enough that is was clearly noticeable to those
unfortunate enough to be following me when I got on it.  My interpretation
was a massive amount of blow-by from one or more cylinders.

A compression check yielded:

1 - 135#
2 - 140#
3 - 135#
4 - 85#

Adding oil into #4 did not raise compression at all so I thought it unlikely
to be the rings.

A leak down test on #4 sent copious amounts of air out the breather tube.

Took the head off this morning -- no hole in #4 piston and the gasket shows
no noticeable (to my eye) signs of failing around #4 cylinder.

Anyway, head gasket failures I have had have always been either coolant into
the cylinder or combustion products into the coolant -- the rim of the
cylinder is a (relatively) long way from the oil galleys.

I will note that the projection of the liners above the deck is very slight
so I do plan to use 'Randall's Fire Ring' 26awg copper wire enhancement on
the next gasket.

Now my choices -- put an 'improved' head gasket back on, torque the head
down and do another leak-down test or...

Open up the bottom end and push #4 piston out to see what the rings look
like.

Would a broken ring produce the problem & numbers I am seeing?

Is there something else I am completely missing?

Thanks for any advice, guesses or sympathy.

Geo

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From bkahler1 at gmail.com  Thu May 16 03:39:45 2013
From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Thu, 16 May 2013 05:39:45 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR clutch MC pushrod
Message-ID: <CADm3DLEKy0OZafmCJ5CGbg2O1MUJjs0FQUEOJ_9zGBtSEYcW7g@mail.gmail.com>

My 63 TR4 was converted by the previous owner from having the TR4/4A
style of brake and clutch system to the TR250/6 system.  Not
necessarily the prettiest job but functional.

My problem is the clutch pedal is closer to the drivers seat than the
brake pedal by almost 1-1/4" at the bottom of the pedal.  This
situation makes It's rather annoying to push the pedal in.

My best guess is when the conversion was done the TR4/4A clutch MC
push rod was used instead of a TR250/6 MC push rod.

Anyone know for certain that the length of the push rods is different
between the TR4/4A and the TR250/6 models?  A 1/4" to 1/2" difference
where the push rod connects with the pedal would make a big difference
where the foot touches the pedal.

The only useful dimension I can come up with is on my car the center
of the pin (in the clutch pedal) is about 2-3/4" from the face of the
MC when the pedal is in the at rest position.  Oh yeah, the other
thing is the part numbers for the push rods between the two models is
different.

Thanks,

Brad

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Thu May 16 09:23:36 2013
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Thu, 16 May 2013 08:23:36 -0700
Subject: [TR] Big Blow By -- TR3A
In-Reply-To: <A7D44F6C67C54598BFC93C9C540F79E0@bboffice>
References: <CANzE1bEGVPDdaew5YjG4hrR9U==_rVLmnYRx_jwOecea2cXC6g@mail.gmail.com>
	<A7D44F6C67C54598BFC93C9C540F79E0@bboffice>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bFhtgVBmF5n6YC22VR8+GmCZ68EAMEOfZMesN6TAmht9Q@mail.gmail.com>

Wellsir, this isn't so pretty --

http://tinyurl.com/auxpb6d

The very good news is that the cylinder wall appears undamaged -- a very
slight scuff that I can see but cannot feel.

Seems I have only recovered about 1/4 of the missing ring -- makes me
wonder where the rest went.  I have not done a thorough exam of the oil
though I do use a strong magnetic drain plug that had no pieces on it.  It
could have also launched itself somewhere as I was under the car when I
popped the piston out.  Of course this problem could pre-date the prior oil
change (can't recall when I started using the magnetic plug).

The engine ran so well (even with this problem) that I am inclined to
address the immediate issue in the most direct way -- I assume that would
be a used 83mm piston -- rather than pursuing new parts that come is sets
of 4.

BTW -- when I say 'ran so well' I mean revved easily and cruised happily at
70-75 mph.  I no doubt had some power loss with the compression drop but
nothing I couldn't overcome with my right foot.

As always -- advice & education are what I'm looking for.

Geo


-----Original Message-----

Subject: [TR] Big Blow By -- TR3A

My TR3A engine is blowing lots of smelly but only slightly visible fumes out
> of the breather tube.

From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Thu May 16 10:08:20 2013
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Thu, 16 May 2013 12:08:20 -0400
Subject: [TR] First TR5 up for sale in UK
Message-ID: <CAPK7CFAPCDG8sFo9Y6ZofSLjroyjBV+9Q9c=fXV79czOxd58AQ@mail.gmail.com>

Any takers?  Only 50,000 GBP (about 75K USD).

http://www.classicandsportscar.com/news/general-classic-car-news/historic-triumph-tr5-is-up-for-sale-in-cheshire

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu May 16 12:22:10 2013
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 16 May 2013 18:22:10 +0000
Subject: [TR] Big Blow By -- TR3A
In-Reply-To: <CANzE1bFhtgVBmF5n6YC22VR8+GmCZ68EAMEOfZMesN6TAmht9Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20130516182210.1T2KL.51241.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>

---- Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com> wrote: 
> Seems I have only recovered about 1/4 of the missing ring -- makes me
> wonder where the rest went. 

Those pieces on top of the magnet look very thin.  I'm not sure what would do that, but evidently something tore the ring up pretty good.  Perhaps the other pieces got through the gap into the combustion chamber and out the exhaust valve?

> The engine ran so well (even with this problem) that I am inclined to
> address the immediate issue in the most direct way -- I assume that would
> be a used 83mm piston -- rather than pursuing new parts that come is sets
> of 4.

Seems reasonable to me.  I drove a lot of years with a pretty badly damaged cylinder wall, and as you say it ran well enough.  Oil consumption was surprisingly minimal, too.  I think my current TR3 engine blows more oil than that old 3A engine did.

If I find time this weekend, I'll see if there are any usable 83mm pistons that I haven't thrown out yet.  Don't think I saved any rings, but a set of rings is only $40-50.

Randall

From pethier at comcast.net  Thu May 16 12:31:59 2013
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 16 May 2013 18:31:59 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] First TR5 up for sale in UK
In-Reply-To: <CAPK7CFAPCDG8sFo9Y6ZofSLjroyjBV+9Q9c=fXV79czOxd58AQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <877621581.889465.1368729119371.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

"In need of total restoration"

I'll pass, thanks.  I don't need to upside-down on another car, and this time with no tax write-off.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier at comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

----- Original Message -----
> From: "Don Hiscock" <don.hiscock at gmail.com>
> To: "Triumphs" <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, May 16, 2013 11:08:20 AM
> Subject: [TR] First TR5 up for sale in UK
> Any takers? Only 50,000 GBP (about 75K USD).
> 
> http://www.classicandsportscar.com/news/general-classic-car-news/historic-triumph-tr5-is-up-for-sale-in-cheshire
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Thu May 16 17:24:12 2013
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 16 May 2013 23:24:12 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Carlisle
Message-ID: <1257970731.127165.1368746652823.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

The Western Pennsylvania Triumph Association will be at Import Carlisle this
weekend in spaces C66, C67 and C68. Stop by forB a brew.



Ed Woods

From mark at bradakis.com  Thu May 16 17:28:37 2013
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Thu, 16 May 2013 17:28:37 -0600
Subject: [TR] Carlisle
In-Reply-To: <1257970731.127165.1368746652823.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1257970731.127165.1368746652823.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <51956BA5.3020106@bradakis.com>

fogbro1 at comcast.net wrote:
> The Western Pennsylvania Triumph Association will be at Import Carlisle this
> weekend in spaces C66, C67 and C68. Stop by for a brew.
>
>
>
I'd love to, but ...

mjb.

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Fri May 17 11:05:50 2013
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Fri, 17 May 2013 10:05:50 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Recore vs Rodding Out TR3 Radiators
Message-ID: <1368810350.2975.YahooMailNeo@web180903.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

     So I have the radiator out of the TR3A. The radiator shop (The Radiator
Depot - Lancaster, CA) is charging me $89 to rod it out and resolder all of
the joints that show signs or corrosion (radiator extension, bottom radiator
fitting and drain plug boss). I thought that that is a fair price. They wanted
$380 to re-core the radiator with a new core. I beat about 12 years and 80,000
out of this radiator. I have always used distilled water with my coolant and
think that that helped.
     Man, it is a pain to change the radiator on a
TR3. My mind wanders and rambles whenever I get to doing the radiator. I am
surprised that Ken Richardson allowed it to be so difficult to change out. It
seems like in the flat horizontal bottom part of the nose piece that there
would have been a removable panel to unbolt to allow the radiator to slide out
the bottom front. ISTR a photo of a TR3 in France where the whole front end
was modified to make it flip up forward to provide access to the whole front
end and suspension.

     How many times can a radiator be rodded out? I have
a spare radiator and was thinking that if you can only rod them out once then
next time (80,000 miles from now...) I would already have the replacement
radiator re-cored  and could swap them out on the fly. If it can be rodded out
a second time then I would hold off on that one.
     With aluminum
replacement radiators, do they keep corrosion down? Are they a worthwhile
upgrade to save trouble down the road? I was thinking if an aluminum radiator
doesn't corrode as fast as the copper one then it may be worthwhile. Of course
the radiator can plug with corrosion from the block & head as well.
     ISTR
someone said that they use a secret FT radiator blend of 1 bottle No-Rosion, 1
bottle water wetter, 1 gallon Prestone and the rest in distilled water. Any
thoughts on that?
     I ordered all new cooling system hoses, connecting tube
& thermostats from Moss. I was surprised that they didn't have the top
radiator hose for either the TR3 or TR4 in stock. WTH you guys? It's summer
and getting hot. Thank goodness that I kept a spare in the trunk. If you are
going to redo your cooling system then you may want to stock up ahead of time.
     I am always trying to keep the connecting pipe from rotting out. When I
found the car 22 years ago the steel pipe was completely rotted. Then I used a
brass pipe from a sink drain, but wasn't happy with it because it didn't have
the right bend. Last time I was in there I used a new Moss one and painted it
on the outside with Rustoleum. Inside the pipe was reasonably clear, but where
the radiator hoses covered the pipe it is rusty and very pitted. Does anyone
make a stainless one? Is there something that can be done to the mild steel
one to make it last?
     TIA,

     Bill in Tehachapi

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Fri May 17 12:45:52 2013
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Fri, 17 May 2013 11:45:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Fw:  Recore vs Rodding Out TR3 Radiators
In-Reply-To: <1368816151.90453.YahooMailNeo@web180905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1368810350.2975.YahooMailNeo@web180903.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<D0.93.11869.A2476915@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
	<1368816151.90453.YahooMailNeo@web180905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1368816352.50538.YahooMailNeo@web180902.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Thanks Randall,

     Do you have a hose part number for the Gates hose?
    
Just got a call from the radiator shop. Radiator was 75% plugged (yeah, I
know) and after rodding out it leaked like a sieve. Having it re-cored with a
HE core now.
     Last time I had the engine apart (how come TR3 owners always
have the "last time") the #4 cylinder was completely blocked off by rust and
fouling plugs. I wonder it I should pull the head and check that out again?
I'll put an IR thermometer on it next time it runs.
     The radiator shop
recommends a cleanable inline rust & sediment filter. I doubt one would fit
between the thermostat housing and radiator. Has anyone tried this?

    
-Bill in
 Tehachapi



________________________________
 From: Randall
<TR3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: 'William Brewer' <wsb1960tr3a at att.net> 
Sent:
Friday, May 17, 2013 11:17 AM
Subject: RE: [TR] Recore vs Rodding Out TR3
Radiators
 

> ISTR a photo of a TR3 in 
> France where the whole front end
was modified to make it flip 
> up forward to provide access to the whole
front end and suspension.

There was one like that at TRfest a few years back,
too.

>  I was 
> thinking if an aluminum radiator doesn't corrode as fast as
> the copper one then it may be worthwhile. Of course the 
> radiator can plug
with corrosion from the block & head as well.

At least in theory, none of
them should corrode, if you use the proper
coolant and change it often
enough.  But without the corrosion inhibitors,
the aluminum will corrode
faster.  It's thicker to begin with, though, so
perhaps the result is about
the same.

>      How many times can a radiator be rodded out?

There doesn't
seem to be a fixed limit, it depends on how much corrosion is
present.  The
factory radiator in my
 previous TR3A was rodded out several
times
successfully and still not leaking when I had it recored.

>      I ordered
all new cooling system hoses, connecting tube 
> & thermostats from Moss. I
was surprised that they didn't 
> have the top radiator hose for either the
TR3 or TR4 in 
> stock.

This is just a guess, mind you, but I suspect they
have recognized that
there is a problem with the last batch of reproduction
upper hoses (with the
nice cloth covering).  At least the last several that
I've gotten from TRF
have all failed much sooner than I think they should
have.  I finally
switched to the Gates hose, which doesn't have the cloth but
appears to be
much stronger.  So far, it has outlasted the last 3 hoses from
TRF put
together and still looks fine.  So I'm guessing they are in the
process of
qualifying a new hose manufacturer and/or waiting for the
 new
batch to be
made.

> Is there something that can be done to the 
> mild steel
one to make it last?

Keep the coolant up to date.

-- Randall

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri May 17 13:14:52 2013
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 17 May 2013 12:14:52 -0700
Subject: [TR] Fw:  Recore vs Rodding Out TR3 Radiators
In-Reply-To: <1368816352.50538.YahooMailNeo@web180902.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <40.69.02984.5A186915@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

>      Do you have a hose part number for the Gates hose?

Gates 23511
 http://goo.gl/hOZTT

Apparently the same thing is available as AC Delco 31401
http://goo.gl/RxRtk

> I wonder it I should 
> pull the head and check that out again?

If the block drain flows freely, then it's probably OK.  It's at the very
bottom of the water jacket, next to #4.

I'd probably leave it be as long as the drain can be opened up with some
prodding.

Used to be, you could buy a strong chemical flush that came in 2 parts.
There was a neutralizer to use after the flush, to stop the chemical action.
I couldn't find any, last time I went looking; but there are some recipes on
the Inet that might work.  IIRC the flush is oxalic acid (sometimes
available as "wood bleach" or "deck bleach") and the neutralizer is baking
soda or maybe washing soda.  The acid comes as a dry powder that must be
mixed with water before adding to your cooling system.

Oxalic acid is fairly potent stuff.  Be sure to keep it off your paint and
wear appropriate protection when handling it.  Have a hose handy for instant
flushing if it gets some place it shouldn't be.

-- Randall 

From tr6.guy at verizon.net  Fri May 17 17:22:36 2013
From: tr6.guy at verizon.net (Gary Klein)
Date: Fri, 17 May 2013 19:22:36 -0400
Subject: [TR] Carlisle
Message-ID: <009b01ce5355$6b170780$41451680$@guy@verizon.net>

Ed,

 

Wish I'd seen your note before I left this morning.  I drove up to Carlisle
for the day today, first time I've attended in nearly 10 years.  Boy, what
a let down!  Very, very few vendors anymore and even the kit car group was
very thin.

 

Oh well, killed off by EBay, I guess.

 

 

Gary

 

---------------------

> Date: Thu, 16 May 2013 23:24:12 +0000 (UTC)

> From: fogbro1 at comcast.net

> To: triumph list <triumphs at autox.team.net>

> Subject: [TR] Carlisle

> Message-ID:

>
<1257970731.127165.1368746652823.JavaMail.root at sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.
comcast.net>

>          

> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

> The Western Pennsylvania Triumph Association will be at Import Carlisle
this weekend in spaces C66, C67 and C68. Stop by forB a brew.

> 

> 

> 

> Ed Woods

From paulwillou at socal.rr.com  Sat May 18 12:52:57 2013
From: paulwillou at socal.rr.com (Paul Willoughby)
Date: Sat, 18 May 2013 11:52:57 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3/TR4 block drain valve?
References: <40.69.02984.5A186915@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <4F6A1464798D4BFBB55BC5E58F5B2EA6@paulal73q2sjay>

How sturdy are the block drain valves?  The one on my TR4 is clogged.  I've 
been hesitant to remove it, fearing that it would crumble into pieces and 
screw up the threads.  Too many bad adventures with home plumbing have left 
me gun shy.

Paulw
64 TR4
56 TR3

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: "'William Brewer'" <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>; "'Triumphs'" <>
Sent: Friday, May 17, 2013 12:14 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Fw: Recore vs Rodding Out TR3 Radiators


>      Do you have a hose part number for the Gates hose?

Gates 23511
 http://goo.gl/hOZTT

Apparently the same thing is available as AC Delco 31401
http://goo.gl/RxRtk

> I wonder it I should
> pull the head and check that out again?

If the block drain flows freely, then it's probably OK.  It's at the very
bottom of the water jacket, next to #4.

I'd probably leave it be as long as the drain can be opened up with some
prodding.

Used to be, you could buy a strong chemical flush that came in 2 parts.
There was a neutralizer to use after the flush, to stop the chemical action.
I couldn't find any, last time I went looking; but there are some recipes on
the Inet that might work.  IIRC the flush is oxalic acid (sometimes
available as "wood bleach" or "deck bleach") and the neutralizer is baking
soda or maybe washing soda.  The acid comes as a dry powder that must be
mixed with water before adding to your cooling system.

Oxalic acid is fairly potent stuff.  Be sure to keep it off your paint and
wear appropriate protection when handling it.  Have a hose handy for instant
flushing if it gets some place it shouldn't be.

-- Randall

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sat May 18 15:11:06 2013
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sat, 18 May 2013 14:11:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3/TR4 block drain valve?
In-Reply-To: <4F6A1464798D4BFBB55BC5E58F5B2EA6@paulal73q2sjay>
References: <40.69.02984.5A186915@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
	<4F6A1464798D4BFBB55BC5E58F5B2EA6@paulal73q2sjay>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bHqJH78S-YUb_ErS=2E6124C8DJjvBwKew6N7VKOpBUyQ@mail.gmail.com>

On Sat, May 18, 2013 at 11:52 AM, Paul Willoughby
<paulwillou at socal.rr.com>wrote:

> How sturdy are the block drain valves?  The one on my TR4 is clogged.  I've
> been hesitant to remove it...



Paul,

On my TRs the valve does not have to be removed to unclog it.  It points
straight out and once opened a probe can be inserted straight into the
valve and on into the cavity in the block (once things are clear).

I'd start with a bamboo skewer and if that doesn't get through then a stout
wire.  As a last resort some use a drill.

OTOH, some Brit cars (e.g. Jaguars) use a drain that curves down like a
little faucet -- cuter perhaps but likely requires removal to clear.

Geo

From allenhess at mgcarclub.com  Sun May 19 18:19:58 2013
From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess)
Date: Sun, 19 May 2013 20:19:58 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3/TR4 block drain valve?
In-Reply-To: <mailman.18.1368986403.16502.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.18.1368986403.16502.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <F6A1E02B-4E98-4DE3-99E0-8A6FFB665AD8@mgcarclub.com>

The block drain valve is the same as the radiator drain valve (or  
should be) and you can get a much better look at that one. I recall it  
being substantial enough that it should come out without much trouble  
but the usual "proceed with caution" applies. I think it is more  
likely that the drain lever will be stuck. It is a taper held in the  
body with a spring, washer and cotter pin. You may be able to tap it  
from underneath and free it. Removing the valve from the block  
provides a larger hole for the crud to come out and you can bend a  
stiff wire (coat hanger) to loosen the crud towards the rear of #4  
cylinder. As usual, been there, done that.

Allen
On May 19, 2013, at 2:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> How sturdy are the block drain valves?  The one on my TR4 is  
> clogged.  I've
> been hesitant to remove it, fearing that it would crumble into  
> pieces and
> screw up the threads.  Too many bad adventures with home plumbing  
> have left
> me gun shy.

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun May 19 18:53:58 2013
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 19 May 2013 17:53:58 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3/TR4 block drain valve?
In-Reply-To: <F6A1E02B-4E98-4DE3-99E0-8A6FFB665AD8@mgcarclub.com>
Message-ID: <CF.96.22955.B1479915@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> The block drain valve is the same as the radiator drain valve 
> (or should be) and you can get a much better look at that 
> one.

Although identical otherwise, I believe they had different threads and
should not be interchanged.

My radiator shop more or less insists on replacing the radiator valve, so it
may not be as original.

-- Randall 

From dlhogye at comcast.net  Sun May 19 19:42:46 2013
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye)
Date: Mon, 20 May 2013 01:42:46 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR3/TR4 block drain valve?
In-Reply-To: <F6A1E02B-4E98-4DE3-99E0-8A6FFB665AD8@mgcarclub.com>
Message-ID: <1842412030.2073534.1369014166694.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

The drain valve is pretty sturdy and it should have a fiber washer between it and the block. So it should come loose with a quick "surprise" twist of a wrench. 


Dave H. 

----- Original Message -----
From: "Allen Hess" <allenhess at mgcarclub.com> 
To: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Sunday, May 19, 2013 5:19:58 PM 
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3/TR4 block drain valve? 

The block drain valve is the same as the radiator drain valve (or 
should be) and you can get a much better look at that one. I recall it 
being substantial enough that it should come out without much trouble 
but the usual "proceed with caution" applies. I think it is more 
likely that the drain lever will be stuck. It is a taper held in the 
body with a spring, washer and cotter pin. You may be able to tap it 
from underneath and free it. Removing the valve from the block 
provides a larger hole for the crud to come out and you can bend a 
stiff wire (coat hanger) to loosen the crud towards the rear of #4 
cylinder. As usual, been there, done that. 

Allen 
On May 19, 2013, at 2:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: 

> How sturdy are the block drain valves? The one on my TR4 is 
> clogged. I've 
> been hesitant to remove it, fearing that it would crumble into 
> pieces and 
> screw up the threads. Too many bad adventures with home plumbing 
> have left 
> me gun shy. 

** triumphs at autox.team.net ** 

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye at comcast.net 

From dlhogye at comcast.net  Sun May 19 20:09:12 2013
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye)
Date: Mon, 20 May 2013 02:09:12 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR3/TR4 block drain valve?
In-Reply-To: <1842412030.2073534.1369014166694.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <901788196.2074142.1369015752930.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Oh, and it's brass, or should be, so it shouldn't be frozen with corrosion. 

----- Original Message -----
From: "davehogye" <dlhogye at comcast.net> 
To: "Allen Hess" <allenhess at mgcarclub.com> 
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Sunday, May 19, 2013 6:42:46 PM 
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3/TR4 block drain valve? 

The drain valve is pretty sturdy and it should have a fiber washer between it and the block. So it should come loose with a quick "surprise" twist of a wrench. 


Dave H. 

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Allen Hess" <allenhess at mgcarclub.com> 
To: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Sunday, May 19, 2013 5:19:58 PM 
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3/TR4 block drain valve? 

The block drain valve is the same as the radiator drain valve (or 
should be) and you can get a much better look at that one. I recall it 
being substantial enough that it should come out without much trouble 
but the usual "proceed with caution" applies. I think it is more 
likely that the drain lever will be stuck. It is a taper held in the 
body with a spring, washer and cotter pin. You may be able to tap it 
from underneath and free it. Removing the valve from the block 
provides a larger hole for the crud to come out and you can bend a 
stiff wire (coat hanger) to loosen the crud towards the rear of #4 
cylinder. As usual, been there, done that. 

Allen 
On May 19, 2013, at 2:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: 

> How sturdy are the block drain valves? The one on my TR4 is 
> clogged. I've 
> been hesitant to remove it, fearing that it would crumble into 
> pieces and 
> screw up the threads. Too many bad adventures with home plumbing 
> have left 
> me gun shy. 

** triumphs at autox.team.net ** 

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye at comcast.net 

** triumphs at autox.team.net ** 

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye at comcast.net 

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Mon May 20 19:57:38 2013
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 01:57:38 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Ian Priestly
Message-ID: <325376569.270581.1369101458134.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

List,



Anyone have any experience with the overdrive offerings of Ian Priestly (New
Zealand) B they'd like to share, good or bad?



Ed Woods

From tr4boy at surewest.net  Mon May 20 21:01:58 2013
From: tr4boy at surewest.net (Greg)
Date: Mon, 20 May 2013 20:01:58 -0700
Subject: [TR] timing chain prep
Message-ID: <8EFBB214-E7B8-4F0F-8342-48F4BF10CAF9@surewest.net>

List,

Do I recall correctly that you're supposed to soak a new timing chain in oil
before installing it?  if not, do I use assembly lube on the chain/new gears
when I install them?

thanks,
Greg

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Mon May 20 21:13:09 2013
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Mon, 20 May 2013 22:13:09 -0500
Subject: [TR] Ian Priestly
In-Reply-To: <325376569.270581.1369101458134.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <325376569.270581.1369101458134.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <78F9A89EAAE342F2A163F8D90C5DFE71@livingroompc>

I bought a rebuilt Overdrive for my TR250 from New Zealand several years 
ago, I can't say for sure if it was Ian Priestly, but I think it was.

He asked what car/transmission I had, and supplied the correct mainshaft, 
which I believe had to be machined to match the older transmission part with 
the newer J type O/D.  The overdrive was all polished and new and lovely 
looking and has been working fine in my car for several years now.  The only 
issue I had was the gearing was wrong for the speedo drive, but all in all 
given it was a bit of a leap of faith buying the thing from halfway around 
the world, I am happy with the deal, and love having the O/D on the car.

Greg Lemon

From tr4boy at surewest.net  Mon May 20 21:32:53 2013
From: tr4boy at surewest.net (Greg)
Date: Mon, 20 May 2013 20:32:53 -0700
Subject: [TR] timing chain prep
In-Reply-To: <519AE85F.6090004@dfn.com>
References: <8EFBB214-E7B8-4F0F-8342-48F4BF10CAF9@surewest.net>
	<519AE85F.6090004@dfn.com>
Message-ID: <16392BFD-A703-4BCD-8879-7983AEE3D14A@surewest.net>

Thanks, Michael.  I like the belt and suspenders approach!

g

On May 20, 2013, at 8:22 PM, Michael Porter wrote:

> On 5/20/2013 9:01 PM, Greg wrote:
>> List,
>>
>> Do I recall correctly that you're supposed to soak a new timing chain in
oil
>> before installing it?  if not, do I use assembly lube on the chain/new
gears
>> when I install them?
>>
>>
>
> More lubrication, rather than less, is never wrong.  All roller chains
depend upon splash, and it does take a little time for engine oil to work its
way into the spaces between the pins and the rollers.
>
> Do both! :)
>
>
> Cheers.
>
> --
>
>
> Michael Porter
> Roswell, NM
>
>
> Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking
distance....

From tr3a.60 at gmail.com  Tue May 21 08:43:14 2013
From: tr3a.60 at gmail.com (John Wise)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 10:43:14 -0400
Subject: [TR] pulley belt 1960 TR3A
Message-ID: <54792183-EF2B-45AF-888C-23AD0A617BE8@gmail.com>

I managed to lose the water pump/alternator belt on my 60 TR3A this morning
(installed 5 years ago).

When I go down to my friendly neighborhood auto parts store, what size should
I purchase??

Thanks

John

John Wise
Ormond Beach, FL

1960 TR3A
http://wisegroupllc.org/_/TR3A.html

1977 Porsche 911S ('86 3.2 engine)
http://wisegroupllc.org/_/Porsche.html

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue May 21 09:21:00 2013
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 08:21:00 -0700
Subject: [TR] pulley belt 1960 TR3A
In-Reply-To: <54792183-EF2B-45AF-888C-23AD0A617BE8@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <98.22.02984.CD09B915@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> I managed to lose the water pump/alternator belt on my 60 
> TR3A this morning (installed 5 years ago).
> 
> When I go down to my friendly neighborhood auto parts store, 
> what size should I purchase??

What belt did you use for the alternator conversion?  When I had an
alternator on my TR3A, I had to run a slightly longer belt than stock due to
the larger alternator.

A Gates TR28386 will fit the stock generator setup; but the odds of finding
one on the shelf at a generic store aren't very good.  I'd call around
first.  I found one NAPA store about 30 miles away that had one on the shelf
about 10 years ago, but it was really dusty and they said they wouldn't
stock it any more.

Now I just mail order through Rockauto.com, and keep a spare belt wrapped in
a Ziploc bag (along with a set of radiator hoses) in the spare tire.

-- Randall 

From areich at telus.net  Tue May 21 15:26:48 2013
From: areich at telus.net (Allan Reich)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 14:26:48 -0700
Subject: [TR] Ian Priestley
Message-ID: <519BE698.6020504@telus.net>

Yes, I ordered a J-Type overdrive unit for my 1975 TR6. He shipped it 
quickly, and it was installed by a club member who has dealt with him 
extensively. We had a question about a piece transferred from the old 
shaft to the new one, and he was back to us via email within an hour. 
All worked. He also provided a shifter from a Triumph 2000, with the 
switch in the top. It has been working well for over a year.
Allan Reich
Vancouver, Canada
1975 TR6 - CF30255U (+O)

From dave at ranteer.com  Tue May 21 19:31:01 2013
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 20:31:01 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR sidescreen book
Message-ID: <22E3F47CE1214211924A04970CBA0229@Datsun>

I am looking for the bill piggott book on sidescreen cars; I see two
versions.

this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Triumph-TR2-3-and-3A-in-Detail-by-Bill-Piggott-Hardba
ck-2008-/281110238595?pt=Non_Fiction&hash=item417379d583  with the red TR on
the front,

and this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Triumph-TR2-3-3A-in-Detail-Bill-Piggott-Automotive-Ne
w-/190835832533?pt=US_Nonfiction_Book&hash=item2c6eb3b6d5

they have the same isbnbs and appear to be identical in every way.  anyone
know why/whatbs the difference?

thanks

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue May 21 20:42:18 2013
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 19:42:18 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR sidescreen book
In-Reply-To: <22E3F47CE1214211924A04970CBA0229@Datsun>
Message-ID: <C8.03.02984.9803C915@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> I am looking for the bill piggott book on sidescreen cars; I see two
> versions.

I'm not absolutely certain, but it appears that the one with the black car
might have been a second printing.  I have one, and it doesn't say anything
about 2nd printing; but the print date is given as 2008, while at least one
reference with the red car gives the print date in 2007.  I'm guessing the
books are identical except for the dust cover.

However, Bill has written a lot of books about these cars.  If you are
looking the _THE_ Bill Piggott book, you want either 
http://goo.gl/6OMSi
Or
http://goo.gl/lau4J

In spite of the name, the "In Detail" book is primarily a history, while the
"Original TR" series covers much more detail about the cars themselves.
Since they are out of print, the prices unfortunately reflect their
popularity.

-- Randall 

From bill_beecher at flash.net  Tue May 21 20:48:38 2013
From: bill_beecher at flash.net (Bill_Beecher)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 21:48:38 -0500
Subject: [TR] Tr3 brake/clutch res cap
Message-ID: <21A0B806-51F0-4307-9314-4CF5F84F9539@flash.net>

Anyone have a source for a replacement cap for the reservoir can?  My can is
good but it looks like King Kong removed it with vise grips.

Bill B

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Tue May 21 21:09:28 2013
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 20:09:28 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] pulley belt 1960 TR3A
Message-ID: <1369192168.70554.YahooMailNeo@web180905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

     I just checked my car and my alternator kit came with a Gates TR24379
belt. I bought a replacement off of Amazon for $14.92 and about $6 shipping.
     Bill Brewer
     Tehachapi, CA


From: John Wise <tr3a.60 at gmail.com>
To:
Triumph Mail List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] pulley belt 1960
TR3A
Message-ID: <54792183-EF2B-45AF-888C-23AD0A617BE8 at gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

I managed to lose the water
pump/alternator belt on my 60 TR3A this morning
(installed 5 years ago).

When
I go down to my friendly neighborhood auto parts store, what size should
I
purchase??

Thanks

John

John Wise
Ormond Beach, FL

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Tue May 21 22:47:04 2013
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Tue, 21 May 2013 21:47:04 -0700
Subject: [TR] pulley belt 1960 TR3A
In-Reply-To: <1369192168.70554.YahooMailNeo@web180905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1369192168.70554.YahooMailNeo@web180905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bHYxmHVENb+2X=0ycdQ9wvPLZS0=BEyZ8RghMPzFo8waQ@mail.gmail.com>

On Tue, May 21, 2013 at 8:09 PM, William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a at att.net> wrote:

>      I just checked my car and my alternator kit came with a Gates TR24379
> belt. I bought a replacement off of Amazon for $14.92 and about $6
> shipping.
>

That is what I'm using (on a generator) but note that it is 3/4" wide
whereas the belt mentioned by Randall is 7/8".

I have always been able to get  TR24379 (I like that number) at NAPA or
O'Rielly's though in the latter case I think I had to phone and picked it
up later in the day.

Geo

From trguy75 at gmail.com  Wed May 22 18:40:13 2013
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 20:40:13 -0400
Subject: [TR] Waterless Coolant
Message-ID: <002a01ce574e$174f9480$45eebd80$@gmail.com>

I saw this stuff used on a UK Whealer Dealers car show where they fixed up a
TR6.  Supposed to last forever, eliminate corrosion, and reduce overheating
issues if you flush out all water per instructions.   Anyone used this stuff
on a TR?  There is a product from Evans on Amazon.  Just curious before
venturing down this path.  Sounds very interesting.

Jim Henningsen

62 TR4

75 TR6

Ocala, FL

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Wed May 22 18:55:49 2013
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 20:55:49 -0400
Subject: [TR] Convex Mirrors
Message-ID: <BLU168-W1176B64143B5C161795BBAABAAA0@phx.gbl>

I have two of the 4-1/2 bullet style rear view mirrors that I want to have the
flat mirrors replaced with convex mirrors. I am not a fan of the stick-ons I
have found. It has been mentioned to me that a glass/mirror shop can do this.
I have went to those in my area and they say no go. Anybody actually had this
done?

Thanks,

From darrellw360 at mac.com  Wed May 22 19:54:00 2013
From: darrellw360 at mac.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 18:54:00 -0700
Subject: [TR] Waterless Coolant
In-Reply-To: <002a01ce574e$174f9480$45eebd80$@gmail.com>
References: <002a01ce574e$174f9480$45eebd80$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <D178475A-6721-4A75-8353-6CEFCC3E6082@mac.com>

On May 22, 2013, at 5:40 PM, James Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com> wrote:

> reduce overheating issues

I don't believe they actually say this (and I wouldn't believe it if they
did).  What they do say, and is believable, is that it won't boil over (since
the boiling point is 170 C/388 F).  You would probably have other issues
before your coolant got that hot.

Now given that steam isn't a great coolant, I suppose it might help above the
temp that your traditional could would boil.

-Darrell

From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com  Wed May 22 20:21:46 2013
From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 19:21:46 -0700
Subject: [TR] Bad Engine Oil Leak
Message-ID: <000c01ce575c$46bc5b00$d4351100$@rr.com>

Listers,

I've been battling a bad engine oil leak on a TR4A for some time. The
undercarriage gets wet from the engine to the differential. After running
for 1/2 hr the back of the engine leaves a puddle of, maybe about 1/4 cup
worth, besides the half dozen others spots that occur underneath.  The oil
is now coming out of mostly the rear seal after plugging everything else.  I
had to remove the dipstick and plug the opening with felt because that would
push oil out. The distributor pedestal bubbles out little bits where the
tach cable attaches. The valve cover cap has oil coming out of the relief
hole. A few years ago it was small stuff. Now it's embarrassing. I believe
it's internal pressure doing it. 

The PVC valve is new (as was it's predecessor). The valve cover doesn't
leak. No leaks from the front engine mounting plate or the sump.

I've had the engine out 3X and .

1. Changed the rear seal to the Marx seal. 1st time I tore it by the
flywheel bolts, 2nd time verified it's intact  as evidenced through the 3rd
timed pulled.

2. Changed the piston rings. They're Deves, with openings rotated on thirds.

3. Redone the epoxy for the rear cam plug. Checked it on the third time
pulled. Perfect.

4. Checked all the rear oil galleys and they are clear, including those
going through the rear crank bearing housing.

So I decided this afternoon to do the compression and leak down tests. 

Compression as follows on a hot engine dry/wet (2 squirts)

1= 175/185  2 = 175/185  3 = 175/185  4 = 165/185

My  leak down test consistent of using a Harbor Fright leak down tester,
again on a hot engine. I used a stethoscope to check for sounds.

Every cylinder was consistent in % of leakage. The only difference was that
#1 had more air was leaking through the valve cover cap, but the % was
similar to the others. 

Checked the carb openings, they sounded consistent. Checked the dip stick.
Sounded consistent. No leaks in the radiator.

Maybe it's the HF Tester? The head has not had any work done to it in 15
years, I'm feeling it could it be the culprit? How do I tell?

 

Thanks!

Johnnie

From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com  Wed May 22 21:02:56 2013
From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 20:02:56 -0700
Subject: [TR] Bad Engine Oil Leak
In-Reply-To: <CAFWFMyhNcck7x_OHPf-CVjMdB1yNjMBOd9YhjnvX2aEHW03nrQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <000c01ce575c$46bc5b00$d4351100$@rr.com>
	<CAFWFMyhNcck7x_OHPf-CVjMdB1yNjMBOd9YhjnvX2aEHW03nrQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000301ce5762$0708ecc0$151ac640$@rr.com>

Hi Irv,

Something's wrong here, and I don't believe that venting to a catch tank is
the proper thing to do. The real issue in my mind is, what's changed? and
how do I validate it? 

My first thought was that the PVC value wasn't working properly, but I got a
new diaphragm from Moss, and then a whole new PCV value, and neither was it.

The leak has been progressively getting worse. I'm now thinking the valve
guides are leaking.

 

Johnnie

'67 TR4A

 

 

 

 

Your crankcase is pressurized and doesn't have enough venting to relieve the
pressure. As a result, the pressure is pushing out the oil.
On my TR4, I had a vent line from the rocker cover as well as a large (1")
vent hose coming from where the mechanical fuel pump was.
Ran both of those to my catch tank, and that did the trick.

HTH,

Irv Korey




On Wed, May 22, 2013 at 9:21 PM, John & Pat Donnelly <pdonnel1 at san.rr.com>
wrote:

Listers,

I've been battling a bad engine oil leak on a TR4A for some time. The
undercarriage gets wet from the engine to the differential. After running
for 1/2 hr the back of the engine leaves a puddle of, maybe about 1/4 cup
worth, besides the half dozen others spots that occur underneath.  The oil
is now coming out of mostly the rear seal after plugging everything else.  I
had to remove the dipstick and plug the opening with felt because that would
push oil out. The distributor pedestal bubbles out little bits where the
tach cable attaches. The valve cover cap has oil coming out of the relief
hole. A few years ago it was small stuff. Now it's embarrassing. I believe
it's internal pressure doing it.

The PVC valve is new (as was it's predecessor). The valve cover doesn't
leak. No leaks from the front engine mounting plate or the sump.

I've had the engine out 3X and .

1. Changed the rear seal to the Marx seal. 1st time I tore it by the
flywheel bolts, 2nd time verified it's intact  as evidenced through the 3rd
timed pulled.

2. Changed the piston rings. They're Deves, with openings rotated on thirds.

3. Redone the epoxy for the rear cam plug. Checked it on the third time
pulled. Perfect.

4. Checked all the rear oil galleys and they are clear, including those
going through the rear crank bearing housing.

So I decided this afternoon to do the compression and leak down tests.

Compression as follows on a hot engine dry/wet (2 squirts)

1= 175/185  2 = 175/185  3 = 175/185  4 = 165/185

My  leak down test consistent of using a Harbor Fright leak down tester,
again on a hot engine. I used a stethoscope to check for sounds.

Every cylinder was consistent in % of leakage. The only difference was that
#1 had more air was leaking through the valve cover cap, but the % was
similar to the others.

Checked the carb openings, they sounded consistent. Checked the dip stick.
Sounded consistent. No leaks in the radiator.

Maybe it's the HF Tester? The head has not had any work done to it in 15
years, I'm feeling it could it be the culprit? How do I tell?



Thanks!

Johnnie

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Wed May 22 21:39:05 2013
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 20:39:05 -0700
Subject: [TR] Bad Engine Oil Leak
In-Reply-To: <000301ce5762$0708ecc0$151ac640$@rr.com>
References: <000c01ce575c$46bc5b00$d4351100$@rr.com>
	<CAFWFMyhNcck7x_OHPf-CVjMdB1yNjMBOd9YhjnvX2aEHW03nrQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<000301ce5762$0708ecc0$151ac640$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bFOqkvsZvubLgGox8eO9A1uB0kbne5XWFECRBkSitmcrg@mail.gmail.com>

On Wed, May 22, 2013 at 8:02 PM, John & Pat Donnelly <pdonnel1 at san.rr.com>wrote:

> Something's wrong here, and I don't believe that venting to a catch tank is
> the proper thing to do. The real issue in my mind is, what's changed? and
> how do I validate it?
>


My TR4 wasn't quite that bad but was oozing oil from every possible pore.
In the end I added a TR3 crankcase breather to relieve the pressure and
that greatly reduced leakage.

The crankcase ventilation provision on a TR4 is (I think) even more
constricted than the PVC on a 4A so the breather seem a prudent relief for
what was (IMO) an inadequate design.

As for the 'why' of your problem -- are you sure the rings got seated?
I'll ask (cause I do not really know) would rings that hadn't seated
reliably show up as low compression?

Geo

From dave at ranteer.com  Wed May 22 21:45:39 2013
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 22:45:39 -0500
Subject: [TR] valve cover cap
Message-ID: <F391A20ED5E548DA8EE9AA0BD2BD55C4@Datsun>

my valve cover cap (late tr3b) has nothing in it!  received it this way.  have
just got the car running, so I figure I should fill it with something.  steel
wool?  coarse?

thanks!

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Wed May 22 21:50:12 2013
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 20:50:12 -0700
Subject: [TR] valve cover cap
In-Reply-To: <F391A20ED5E548DA8EE9AA0BD2BD55C4@Datsun>
References: <F391A20ED5E548DA8EE9AA0BD2BD55C4@Datsun>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bGTA02HJJiUnH8zGo+fjxvHR58t+Ak0Hw4ji2Qidma+=g@mail.gmail.com>

Could be tough to stuff anything in through those little holes -- I wonder
how someone got the insides out?

I'd be inclined to go with coarse bronze wool if anything but sourcing a
decent used one might be a simpler solution.

Geo


On Wed, May 22, 2013 at 8:45 PM, Dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:

> my valve cover cap (late tr3b) has nothing in it!  received it this way.
>  have
> just got the car running, so I figure I should fill it with something.
>  steel
> wool?  coarse?
>
> thanks!
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Thu May 23 06:17:22 2013
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 08:17:22 -0400
Subject: [TR] Convex Mirrors
In-Reply-To: <BLU168-W1176B64143B5C161795BBAABAAA0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU168-W1176B64143B5C161795BBAABAAA0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <CANhzkeO48nDmQjWtThJPzy9cPYVfbU=m5ceuxTShyZWKNi0BvQ@mail.gmail.com>

I might try something like this - if you can find convex mirrors the right
size (we wouldn't be having this conversation)  or larger - you could mask
the center and take the mirrors to a stained glass shop (or class)  and see
if they will grind down the edge of the mirrors to fit.

Chris

On Wed, May 22, 2013 at 8:55 PM, marty sukey <trmarty at hotmail.com> wrote:

> I have two of the 4-1/2 bullet style rear view mirrors that I want to have
> the
> flat mirrors replaced with convex mirrors. I am not a fan of the stick-ons
> I
> have found. It has been mentioned to me that a glass/mirror shop can do
> this.
> I have went to those in my area and they say no go. Anybody actually had
> this
> done?
>
> Thanks,

From bkahler1 at gmail.com  Thu May 23 06:48:36 2013
From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 08:48:36 -0400
Subject: [TR] Aluminum battery retaining bar
Message-ID: <CADm3DLG3TtbJL7O2fJ6SrFnG8XRbEM1FRiJz7d7gb=rCPoGnjw@mail.gmail.com>

Over the years I've seen Triumphs with nice aluminum battery retaining
bars.  I've been searching for a while now and can't seem to find a source
for one.

Anyone know where I can find one that will fit a TR4?

Thanks,

Brad

From emanteno at comcast.net  Thu May 23 06:57:00 2013
From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 07:57:00 -0500
Subject: [TR] Aluminum battery retaining bar
In-Reply-To: <CADm3DLG3TtbJL7O2fJ6SrFnG8XRbEM1FRiJz7d7gb=rCPoGnjw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CADm3DLG3TtbJL7O2fJ6SrFnG8XRbEM1FRiJz7d7gb=rCPoGnjw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFWFMygnu_VVxZSHiBJHKoOO4C=v7uheRsKoeqViFUtmtk==CQ@mail.gmail.com>

On Thu, May 23, 2013 at 7:48 AM, Brad Kahler <bkahler1 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Over the years I've seen Triumphs with nice aluminum battery retaining
> bars.  I've been searching for a while now and can't seem to find a source
> for one.
>
> Anyone know where I can find one that will fit a TR4?
>

Herman van den Akker makes those.

http://www.hvdaconversions.com/accessories.html

From bkahler1 at gmail.com  Thu May 23 06:58:28 2013
From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 08:58:28 -0400
Subject: [TR] Aluminum battery retaining bar
In-Reply-To: <CAFWFMygnu_VVxZSHiBJHKoOO4C=v7uheRsKoeqViFUtmtk==CQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CADm3DLG3TtbJL7O2fJ6SrFnG8XRbEM1FRiJz7d7gb=rCPoGnjw@mail.gmail.com>
	<CAFWFMygnu_VVxZSHiBJHKoOO4C=v7uheRsKoeqViFUtmtk==CQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CADm3DLErkvX=A6PSbBF0=0KacZv4SxMTRke7TH=VkLfc2e2sGQ@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks Irv.



On Thu, May 23, 2013 at 8:57 AM, Irv Korey <emanteno at comcast.net> wrote:

>
>
> On Thu, May 23, 2013 at 7:48 AM, Brad Kahler <bkahler1 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Over the years I've seen Triumphs with nice aluminum battery retaining
>> bars.  I've been searching for a while now and can't seem to find a source
>> for one.
>>
>> Anyone know where I can find one that will fit a TR4?
>>
>
> Herman van den Akker makes those.
>
> http://www.hvdaconversions.com/accessories.html

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Thu May 23 07:47:02 2013
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 09:47:02 -0400
Subject: [TR] Aluminum battery retaining bar
In-Reply-To: <CADm3DLErkvX=A6PSbBF0=0KacZv4SxMTRke7TH=VkLfc2e2sGQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CADm3DLG3TtbJL7O2fJ6SrFnG8XRbEM1FRiJz7d7gb=rCPoGnjw@mail.gmail.com>
	<CAFWFMygnu_VVxZSHiBJHKoOO4C=v7uheRsKoeqViFUtmtk==CQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<CADm3DLErkvX=A6PSbBF0=0KacZv4SxMTRke7TH=VkLfc2e2sGQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANhzkePNnix66Ygj6jwsSUddSVc5_c6ZhDs_zv0KJCARH8wc+A@mail.gmail.com>

I have one of the HVDA battery bars - it's very nice looking and goes well
with my aluminum valve cover.

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Thu May 23 08:49:53 2013
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 07:49:53 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Aluminum battery retaining bar
In-Reply-To: <CADm3DLG3TtbJL7O2fJ6SrFnG8XRbEM1FRiJz7d7gb=rCPoGnjw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CADm3DLG3TtbJL7O2fJ6SrFnG8XRbEM1FRiJz7d7gb=rCPoGnjw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1369320593.16571.YahooMailNeo@web120006.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Herman Van den Akker
 
http://www.hvdaconversions.com/products.html
 
 
him of
Toyota conversion kits
 
Frank

From: Brad Kahler <bkahler1 at gmail.com>
To:
Triumphs <Triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 5:48 AM
Subject: [TR] Aluminum battery retaining bar


Over the years I've seen
Triumphs with nice aluminum battery retaining
bars.  I've been searching for a
while now and can't seem to find a source
for one.

Anyone know where I can
find one that will fit a TR4?

Thanks,

Brad

** triumphs at autox.team.net **
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com

From dave at ranteer.com  Thu May 23 08:55:47 2013
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 09:55:47 -0500
Subject: [TR] valve cover cap
In-Reply-To: <CANzE1bGTA02HJJiUnH8zGo+fjxvHR58t+Ak0Hw4ji2Qidma+=g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <F391A20ED5E548DA8EE9AA0BD2BD55C4@Datsun>
	<CANzE1bGTA02HJJiUnH8zGo+fjxvHR58t+Ak0Hw4ji2Qidma+=g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <274B9789675843D0A2B1723DFD79B987@Datsun>

I now realize he drilled a hole in it!  sheez.  what a dpo!

From: Geo Hahn
Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 10:50 PM
To: Dave
Cc: Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] valve cover cap

Could be tough to stuff anything in through those little holes -- I wonder how
someone got the insides out?

I'd be inclined to go with coarse bronze wool if anything but sourcing a
decent used one might be a simpler solution.

Geo



On Wed, May 22, 2013 at 8:45 PM, Dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:

  my valve cover cap (late tr3b) has nothing in it!  received it this way.
have
  just got the car running, so I figure I should fill it with something.
steel
  wool?  coarse?

From wbeech at flash.net  Thu May 23 09:06:19 2013
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 10:06:19 -0500
Subject: [TR] valve cover cap
In-Reply-To: <F391A20ED5E548DA8EE9AA0BD2BD55C4@Datsun>
References: <F391A20ED5E548DA8EE9AA0BD2BD55C4@Datsun>
Message-ID: <A5B69AC9E729418D8EF1D894407A6E28@bboffice>

<.... received it this way.>

Just checked my TCF2549L and the oil cap has the material up in it just like
the new one I bought for my '58.  Of course, no way of telling when these
were replaced by POs.  Personally, before I started shoving any mettalic
mesh material that may in time break down and get into the motor I would
spring for a new one, or there is a fairly nice looking used one on eBay
currently at $20(NFI).

Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Even if you are on the right track, you'll get run over if you just sit
there"  Will Rodgers



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave
Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 2013 10:46 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] valve cover cap

my valve cover cap (late tr3b) has nothing in it!  received it this way.
have just got the car running, so I figure I should fill it with something.
steel wool?  coarse?

thanks!

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From spamiam at comcast.net  Thu May 23 11:21:00 2013
From: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 17:21:00 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 6, Issue 176
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3342.1369320807.1864.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <1875361600.2449655.1369329660952.JavaMail.root@sz0135a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Johnnie,



I don't think it has anything to do with the head. Leaky valve guides and
valve problems would cause pressure noted the outside of the engine, not to
the inside. Intake valve guides which leak would suck in some oil from the top
of the head and cause smoke up the exhaust, but would not pressurize the
crankcase.



Your description of the problem would appear to be excessive pressure in the
crankcase. This would be caused by in adequate PCV ventilation, or excessive
blow-by of the pistons overcoming the capability of normal PCV ventilation. I
cannot come up with any other mechanism that would pressurize the crankcase .



I do not know how to be sure about piston blow-by, especially if it is
occurring on all pistons equally. Others here would be able to answer this
question better than I. If the problem isB effective PCV ventilation then the
most expedient solution is to revert back to the earlier road draft tube
ventilation design. To protect the environment you might use a catch tank but
another solution is to use a longer vertical length on the road draft tube so
that less oil remains suspended in the air as it exits the road draft tube.



On a Spitfire engine that had unbelievable blow-by, I could feel pulses of air
exiting the oil filler hole when the cap was removed. Do you notice anything
similar?



-Tony





----- Original Message -----


Message: 5
Date: Wed, 22 May 2013 20:02:56 -0700
From: "John & Pat Donnelly" < pdonnel1 at san.rr.com >
To: "'Irv Korey'" < emanteno at comcast.net >, < triumphs at autox.team.net >
Subject: Re: [TR] Bad Engine Oil Leak
Message-ID: <000301ce5762$0708ecc0$151ac640$@rr.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Hi Irv,

Something's wrong here, and I don't believe that venting to a catch tank is
the proper thing to do. The real issue in my mind is, what's changed? and
how do I validate it?

My first thought was that the PVC value wasn't working properly, but I got a
new diaphragm from Moss, and then a whole new PCV value, and neither was it.

The leak has been progressively getting worse. I'm now thinking the valve
guides are leaking.

B 

Johnnie

'67 TR4A

From jdemuth at ties2.net  Thu May 23 16:35:34 2013
From: jdemuth at ties2.net (Joe DeMuth)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 17:35:34 -0500
Subject: [TR] Oil pressure in my TR6
Message-ID: <AC177CF7-C98F-4BBC-A8CA-2BBBBA56BA78@ties2.net>

Help. Just bought a '73 TR6 after selling the TR3 I owned for thirty years.
Everything looked good about this car, but I soon became concerned with the
oil pressure reading. At idle, running 20-50 oil, all heated up, the pressure
dropped to what looked like about 10 lbs or less on the gauge. At highway
speed it read about 40. I dropped the pan and used Plastigauge to check
clearance in the mains. I checked the back three and all where in the 2
thousandth range, which I assume is good, can't find a spec for that. All
bearings had oil. I didn't do the front one because I didn't have a new timing
chain gasket, but assumed three are good the other is probably OK. I checked
one rod bearing and it was well within spec. The rocker train appears to be
lubed its full lenght. Pulled the oil pump and found it to be just over the
high end of the various specs. Put in a new one, checking clearances before
installation. Pulled the oil relief valve and found that the previous owner
had replaced the standard spring with the slightly longer one sold by Moss.

I put it all back together. Now I have about 6o lbs at highway speed, but only
about 12 at idle. I checked the gauge by hooking up an after market gauge in
the oil pressure warning sender hole. The gauges read about the same across
the whole range of rpm

So, can I get by with this? Do I need to look further, if so, where?

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Thu May 23 17:00:19 2013
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 19:00:19 -0400
Subject: [TR] Oil pressure in my TR6
In-Reply-To: <AC177CF7-C98F-4BBC-A8CA-2BBBBA56BA78@ties2.net>
References: <AC177CF7-C98F-4BBC-A8CA-2BBBBA56BA78@ties2.net>
Message-ID: <519E9F83.40902@adelphia.net>

Joe,

Make sure you check the thrust washer clearance. It is a known week link 
for the 6 engine.

If it is not in spec, replace with upgraded washers.

What oil/weight are you using? Make sure you use a ZDDP oil such as Brad 
Penn.

I use 20/50 BP racing oil in all 3 of my TRs. All run about 75 to 80 PSI 
at highway speeds and about 35 to 40 at idle depending on how hot it is 
outside.


Bob

On 05/23/2013 06:35 PM, Joe DeMuth wrote:
> Help. Just bought a '73 TR6 after selling the TR3 I owned for thirty years.
> Everything looked good about this car, but I soon became concerned with the
> oil pressure reading. At idle, running 20-50 oil, all heated up, the pressure
> dropped to what looked like about 10 lbs or less on the gauge. At highway
> speed it read about 40. I dropped the pan and used Plastigauge to check
> clearance in the mains. I checked the back three and all where in the 2
> thousandth range, which I assume is good, can't find a spec for that. All
> bearings had oil. I didn't do the front one because I didn't have a new timing
> chain gasket, but assumed three are good the other is probably OK. I checked
> one rod bearing and it was well within spec. The rocker train appears to be
> lubed its full lenght. Pulled the oil pump and found it to be just over the
> high end of the various specs. Put in a new one, checking clearances before
> installation. Pulled the oil relief valve and found that the previous owner
> had replaced the standard spring with the slightly longer one sold by Moss.
>
> I put it all back together. Now I have about 6o lbs at highway speed, but only
> about 12 at idle. I checked the gauge by hooking up an after market gauge in
> the oil pressure warning sender hole. The gauges read about the same across
> the whole range of rpm
>
> So, can I get by with this? Do I need to look further, if so, where?

From elliottr at rmi.net  Thu May 23 17:55:46 2013
From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 18:55:46 -0500
Subject: [TR] Emissions Control Valve
Message-ID: <519EAC82.1090607@rmi.net>

Hi,

Is there a test to make sure the emission control valve is working 
correctly?    What does it do if it isn't?

I have an 1980 Spitfire, but with dual SUs.  So the ECV is like ones 
from earlier cars that can be disassembled with the rubber diaphragm, 
metal plate and spring.

Thanks,
Roger Elliott

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Thu May 23 18:28:04 2013
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 17:28:04 -0700
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 6, Issue 176
In-Reply-To: <1875361600.2449655.1369329660952.JavaMail.root@sz0135a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <mailman.3342.1369320807.1864.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<1875361600.2449655.1369329660952.JavaMail.root@sz0135a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bEK7PqzNq0=VWWRwGsgmiAOczhXbqjHkz0eZHzrdp+yBg@mail.gmail.com>

On Thu, May 23, 2013 at 10:21 AM, <spamiam at comcast.net> wrote:

> To protect the environment you might use a catch tank but
> another solution is to use a longer vertical length on the road draft tube
> so
> that less oil remains suspended in the air as it exits the road draft tube.



Adding the road draft sounds good but I would be wary of changing its
design by making it, in effect, longer.

I recall hearing a tale of a junior engineer modifying the road draft tube
on one of the factory cars (I think he was trying to clear some sort of
undershield that had been installed).  At speed the longer tube neatly
sucked the oil out of the crankcase.

The engine, presumably, was toast.  The engineer, presumably, found a job
selling shoes at Harrods.

Geo

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Thu May 23 19:14:48 2013
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 18:14:48 -0700
Subject: [TR] Hydraulic Reservoir Cap
Message-ID: <CCD58E3B-F2B5-4942-B4AA-9710B5870CA4@comcast.net>

Some one on the list needed an TR3/3A  Reservoir Cap b& I have one, just send
me the address.  No Charge


"Life is too short to drive boring cars"

Bill Pugh
1957 TR3 "Casper"p;
TS16765L
Wallace, CA
anabil007 at comcast.netp

From spamiam at comcast.net  Thu May 23 19:39:39 2013
From: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 21:39:39 -0400
Subject: [TR] crank case ventilation
In-Reply-To: <CANzE1bEK7PqzNq0=VWWRwGsgmiAOczhXbqjHkz0eZHzrdp+yBg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <mailman.3342.1369320807.1864.triumphs@autox.team.net><1875361600.2449655.1369329660952.JavaMail.root@sz0135a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<CANzE1bEK7PqzNq0=VWWRwGsgmiAOczhXbqjHkz0eZHzrdp+yBg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <FC21DCB9C9474285987EF2665EFDFFCE@I7Quad>

Hmmm, it would be hard to suck all the oil out because the road draft tube
does not go into the oil sump.  I sullose that if it were made with no upward
travel before turning 180 degrees to go downward, then it would be easier for
oil to spill out on a hard right hand turn.

I was not clear, I recommended a longer UPWARD  travel before the hairpin
turn.  That should make it less likely to have oil spill out., but a normal
road draft tube would be quite adequate too!

-Tony

From: Geo Hahn
Sent: Thursday, May 23, 2013 8:28 PM
To: spamiam at comcast.net
Cc: Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 6, Issue 176

On Thu, May 23, 2013 at 10:21 AM, <spamiam at comcast.net> wrote:

  To protect the environment you might use a catch tank but
  another solution is to use a longer vertical length on the road draft tube
so
  that less oil remains suspended in the air as it exits the road draft tube.


Adding the road draft sounds good but I would be wary of changing its design
by making it, in effect, longer.

I recall hearing a tale of a junior engineer modifying the road draft tube on
one of the factory cars (I think he was trying to clear some sort of
undershield that had been installed).  At speed the longer tube neatly sucked
the oil out of the crankcase.

The engine, presumably, was toast.  The engineer, presumably, found a job
selling shoes at Harrods.

Geo

From dave1massey at cs.com  Thu May 23 20:37:11 2013
From: dave1massey at cs.com (Dave Massey)
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 22:37:11 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Oil pressure in my TR6
In-Reply-To: <AC177CF7-C98F-4BBC-A8CA-2BBBBA56BA78@ties2.net>
References: <AC177CF7-C98F-4BBC-A8CA-2BBBBA56BA78@ties2.net>
Message-ID: <8D0263EBA3860A7-2170-E6B8@webmail-d166.sysops.aol.com>

 That sounds a little low but no terminally so.  You may have excess
clearances in the oil pump and a fresh pump may improve things significantly.
Camshaft clearances also help determine oil pressure but that is a bit more
work to address.

Keep in mind that the TR6 does typically run lower pressure than the old
TRactor motor typically does so don't expect to see those pressures on an
engine with a lot of miles.

And if that kind of oil pressure scares you stay away from a TR8.  Those
things run in the single digits at warm idle.



Dave Massey






-----Original Message-----
From: Joe DeMuth <jdemuth at ties2.net>


Help. Just bought a '73 TR6 after selling the TR3 I owned for thirty years.
Everything looked good about this car, but I soon became concerned with the
oil pressure reading. At idle, running 20-50 oil, all heated up, the pressure
dropped to what looked like about 10 lbs or less on the gauge. At highway
speed it read about 40. I dropped the pan and used Plastigauge to check
clearance in the mains. I checked the back three and all where in the 2
thousandth range, which I assume is good, can't find a spec for that. All
bearings had oil. I didn't do the front one because I didn't have a new
timing
chain gasket, but assumed three are good the other is probably OK. I checked
one rod bearing and it was well within spec. The rocker train appears to be
lubed its full lenght. Pulled the oil pump and found it to be just over the
high end of the various specs. Put in a new one, checking clearances before
installation. Pulled the oil relief valve and found that the previous owner
had replaced the standard spring with the slightly longer one sold by Moss.

I put it all back together. Now I have about 6o lbs at highway speed, but
only
about 12 at idle. I checked the gauge by hooking up an after market gauge in
the oil pressure warning sender hole. The gauges read about the same across
the whole range of rpm

So, can I get by with this? Do I need to look further, if so, where?

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Fri May 24 06:29:53 2013
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (glemon at neb.rr.com)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 12:29:53 +0000
Subject: [TR] Oil pressure in my TR6
In-Reply-To: <8D0263EBA3860A7-2170-E6B8@webmail-d166.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <20130524122953.8NRUQ.123586.root@hrndva-web22-z02>

I agree with what Dave said. While the numbers are lower than you will see for a fresh motor, or even a well worn one in good nick, I have driven many motors many miles with similar numbers and nothing has blown up.  There is an old adage about 10 psi per 1000 rpm being adequate.  In addition to a new oil pump a new rocker shaft and or new rod bearing can bolster up the pressure short of a pull the engine rebuild.

Greg Lemon

---- Dave Massey <dave1massey at cs.com> wrote: 
>  That sounds a little low but no terminally so.  You may have excess
> clearances in the oil pump and a fresh pump may improve things significantly.
> Camshaft clearances also help determine oil pressure but that is a bit more
> work to address.
> 
> Keep in mind that the TR6 does typically run lower pressure than the old
> TRactor motor typically does so don't expect to see those pressures on an
> engine with a lot of miles.
> 
> And if that kind of oil pressure scares you stay away from a TR8.  Those
> things run in the single digits at warm idle.
> 
> 
> 
> Dave Massey
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Joe DeMuth <jdemuth at ties2.net>
> 
> 
> Help. Just bought a '73 TR6 after selling the TR3 I owned for thirty years.
> Everything looked good about this car, but I soon became concerned with the
> oil pressure reading. At idle, running 20-50 oil, all heated up, the pressure
> dropped to what looked like about 10 lbs or less on the gauge. At highway
> speed it read about 40. I dropped the pan and used Plastigauge to check
> clearance in the mains. I checked the back three and all where in the 2
> thousandth range, which I assume is good, can't find a spec for that. All
> bearings had oil. I didn't do the front one because I didn't have a new
> timing
> chain gasket, but assumed three are good the other is probably OK. I checked
> one rod bearing and it was well within spec. The rocker train appears to be
> lubed its full lenght. Pulled the oil pump and found it to be just over the
> high end of the various specs. Put in a new one, checking clearances before
> installation. Pulled the oil relief valve and found that the previous owner
> had replaced the standard spring with the slightly longer one sold by Moss.
> 
> I put it all back together. Now I have about 6o lbs at highway speed, but
> only
> about 12 at idle. I checked the gauge by hooking up an after market gauge in
> the oil pressure warning sender hole. The gauges read about the same across
> the whole range of rpm
> 
> So, can I get by with this? Do I need to look further, if so, where?
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/glemon at neb.rr.com

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Fri May 24 06:31:39 2013
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (glemon at neb.rr.com)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 7:31:39 -0500
Subject: [TR] Oil pressure in my TR6
Message-ID: <20130524123140.5J7UW.123592.root@hrndva-web22-z02>

I agree with what Dave said. While the numbers are lower than you will see for a fresh motor, or even a well worn one in good nick, I have driven many motors many miles with similar numbers and nothing has blown up.  There is an old adage about 10 psi per 1000 rpm being adequate.  In addition to a new oil pump a new rocker shaft and or new rod bearing can bolster up the pressure short of a pull the engine rebuild.

Greg Lemon

---- Dave Massey <dave1massey at cs.com> wrote: 
>  That sounds a little low but no terminally so.  You may have excess
> clearances in the oil pump and a fresh pump may improve things significantly.
> Camshaft clearances also help determine oil pressure but that is a bit more
> work to address.
> 
> Keep in mind that the TR6 does typically run lower pressure than the old
> TRactor motor typically does so don't expect to see those pressures on an
> engine with a lot of miles.
> 
> And if that kind of oil pressure scares you stay away from a TR8.  Those
> things run in the single digits at warm idle.
> 
> 
> 
> Dave Massey
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Joe DeMuth <jdemuth at ties2.net>
> 
> 
> Help. Just bought a '73 TR6 after selling the TR3 I owned for thirty years.
> Everything looked good about this car, but I soon became concerned with the
> oil pressure reading. At idle, running 20-50 oil, all heated up, the pressure
> dropped to what looked like about 10 lbs or less on the gauge. At highway
> speed it read about 40. I dropped the pan and used Plastigauge to check
> clearance in the mains. I checked the back three and all where in the 2
> thousandth range, which I assume is good, can't find a spec for that. All
> bearings had oil. I didn't do the front one because I didn't have a new
> timing
> chain gasket, but assumed three are good the other is probably OK. I checked
> one rod bearing and it was well within spec. The rocker train appears to be
> lubed its full lenght. Pulled the oil pump and found it to be just over the
> high end of the various specs. Put in a new one, checking clearances before
> installation. Pulled the oil relief valve and found that the previous owner
> had replaced the standard spring with the slightly longer one sold by Moss.
> 
> I put it all back together. Now I have about 6o lbs at highway speed, but
> only
> about 12 at idle. I checked the gauge by hooking up an after market gauge in
> the oil pressure warning sender hole. The gauges read about the same across
> the whole range of rpm
> 
> So, can I get by with this? Do I need to look further, if so, where?
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/glemon at neb.rr.com

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Fri May 24 10:12:51 2013
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 09:12:51 -0700
Subject: [TR] HELP !!!!
Message-ID: <48C2BEAF-E993-4069-AA1A-EDAEFAF52A78@comcast.net>

Is there a published sequence on how to replace the hydraulic lines from the
reservoir to the master cylinders?  The brake one is easy, but the clutch one
reminds me of those "bent nail" puzzles b& I am very frustrated.

Thanks for you time


"Life is too short to drive boring cars"

Bill Pugh
1957 TR3 "Casper"p;
TS16765L
Wallace, CA
anabil007 at comcast.netp

From wbeech at flash.net  Fri May 24 10:21:48 2013
From: wbeech at flash.net (WBEECH)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 11:21:48 -0500
Subject: [TR] HELP !!!!
In-Reply-To: <48C2BEAF-E993-4069-AA1A-EDAEFAF52A78@comcast.net>
References: <48C2BEAF-E993-4069-AA1A-EDAEFAF52A78@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <2F0953B9-DD63-4A04-8D6C-D12B21101C34@flash.net>

Don't know if anything is published but I put the lines on the MC first then
attach them to the can.  It's just easier to wiggle that can around than
trying to align the pipes to the threads of the MC.

Bill B

Sent from my iPhone

On May 24, 2013, at 11:12 AM, William Pugh <anabil007 at comcast.net> wrote:

> Is there a published sequence on how to replace the hydraulic lines from
the
> reservoir to the master cylinders?  The brake one is easy, but the clutch
one
> reminds me of those "bent nail" puzzles b& I am very frustrated.
>
> Thanks for you time
>
>
> "Life is too short to drive boring cars"
>
> Bill Pugh
> 1957 TR3 "Casper"p;
> TS16765L
> Wallace, CA
> anabil007 at comcast.netp
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Fri May 24 10:28:08 2013
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 09:28:08 -0700
Subject: [TR] HELP !!!!
In-Reply-To: <48C2BEAF-E993-4069-AA1A-EDAEFAF52A78@comcast.net>
References: <48C2BEAF-E993-4069-AA1A-EDAEFAF52A78@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bGybHzZUaOvhUwjjnFXooGD7uRgJifWYW03q00CCC63_g@mail.gmail.com>

Bill --

Here's a couple of photos to eye while you're waiting for the puzzle
solution:


http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/TR3/GirlingReservoir.jpg

http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/TR3/Girling_zpsa2c1c6f8.jpg


I cannot guarantee that is correct, just that it works.

Geo


On Fri, May 24, 2013 at 9:12 AM, William Pugh <anabil007 at comcast.net> wrote:

> Is there a published sequence on how to replace the hydraulic lines from
> the
> reservoir to the master cylinders?  The brake one is easy, but the clutch
> one
> reminds me of those "bent nail" puzzles b& I am very frustrated.
>
> Thanks for you time
>
>
> "Life is too short to drive boring cars"
>
> Bill Pugh
> 1957 TR3 "Casper"p  ;
> TS16765L
> Wallace, CA
> anabil007 at comcast.netp
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com

From cak at dimebank.com  Fri May 24 10:51:14 2013
From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 09:51:14 -0700
Subject: [TR] Oil pressure in my TR6
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3461.1369413111.1864.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.3461.1369413111.1864.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <519F9A82.8080108@dimebank.com>

Those pressures seem totally reasonable; my target is usually 10PSI/1000rpm. 
Too high an oil pressure is just robbing power from the engine.

One thing you didn't look at, and is not an uncommon problem, is a worn rocker 
shaft; check the underside for wear. You can lose a lot of oil pressure there.

From lherault at bu.edu  Fri May 24 10:55:18 2013
From: lherault at bu.edu (Ron L'Herault)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 12:55:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] low oil pressure
Message-ID: <011d01ce589f$786f2f80$694d8e80$@bu.edu>

I have a '73 TR6, bought after my '71 was wrecked.  That car had 95K on the
engine (and on the clutch, which was starting to slip).  It's oil pressure
was pretty low at idle but never a problem for the engine.  It was that guy
pulling out in front of me and then stopping that did it in.    My '73 has
had a farmer's refresh done to it and still has somewhat low oil pressure
but I'm not concerned.    I still wish I had my 1958  TR-3 though.  Sigh

Ronald L'Herault

Lab Supervisor, Biomaterials Division
B.U. School of Dental Medicine
801 Albany Street S203
Roxbury, MA 02119




-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
triumphs-request at autox.team.net


Message: 1
Date: Thu, 23 May 2013 17:35:34 -0500
From: Joe DeMuth <jdemuth at ties2.net>

Help. Just bought a '73 TR6 after selling the TR3 I owned for thirty years.

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Fri May 24 12:06:32 2013
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 11:06:32 -0700
Subject: [TR] AHA!
References: <2F0953B9-DD63-4A04-8D6C-D12B21101C34@flash.net>
Message-ID: <954BDD81-5CA2-4B8A-97CC-2C3358896E25@comcast.net>

This AHA moment brought to you courtesy of Triumphs Only.  There is an access
plate behind the master cylinders, four sheet metal screws and the back is
open so you can get to everything,  Job Done !

Begin forwarded message:

> From: WBEECH <wbeech at flash.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] HELP !!!!
> Date: May 24, 2013 9:21:48 AM PDT
> To: William Pugh <anabil007 at comcast.net>
> Cc: TR3/6 <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>
> Don't know if anything is published but I put the lines on the MC first then
attach them to the can.  It's just easier to wiggle that can around than
trying to align the pipes to the threads of the MC.
>
> Bill B
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On May 24, 2013, at 11:12 AM, William Pugh <anabil007 at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> Is there a published sequence on how to replace the hydraulic lines from
the
>> reservoir to the master cylinders?  The brake one is easy, but the clutch
one
>> reminds me of those "bent nail" puzzles b& I am very frustrated.
>>

"Life is too short to drive boring cars"

Bill Pugh
1957 TR3 "Casper"p;
TS16765L
Wallace, CA
anabil007 at comcast.netp

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Fri May 24 12:43:22 2013
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 11:43:22 -0700
Subject: [TR] AHA!
In-Reply-To: <954BDD81-5CA2-4B8A-97CC-2C3358896E25@comcast.net>
References: <2F0953B9-DD63-4A04-8D6C-D12B21101C34@flash.net>
	<954BDD81-5CA2-4B8A-97CC-2C3358896E25@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <519FB4CA.1020200@gmail.com>

On 5/24/13 11:06 AM, William Pugh wrote:
> This AHA moment brought to you courtesy of Triumphs Only.  There is an access
> plate behind the master cylinders, four sheet metal screws and the back is
> open so you can get to everything,  Job Done !
Does Triumphs Only still exist?  I thought it went out of business years 
ago when it was put up for sale.

TeriAnn

Who just assumed that everyone with a TR2-3B knew about the access plate.

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Fri May 24 12:50:01 2013
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 14:50:01 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 stanchions and plates
Message-ID: <005d01ce58af$866e74f0$934b5ed0$@uprichard.net>

List:

 

How are you expected to hold the stanchion plates in place for the later
(non-dzus) windshields?  The dzus plates have three holes for securing
screws to the body, but the later ones have just two for the large bolts
which go through the stanchions.  Any help appreciated.  Thanks!

Andrew Uprichard

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri May 24 13:00:44 2013
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 19:00:44 +0000
Subject: [TR] AHA!
In-Reply-To: <519FB4CA.1020200@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20130524190044.XMQA8.8108.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>

> Does Triumphs Only still exist?  

Yup.  Seems no one was willing to meet his price, and he wasn't willing to sell for less.  Reminds me of a Tony Hillerman character.

Randall

From wbeech at flash.net  Fri May 24 13:16:37 2013
From: wbeech at flash.net (WBEECH)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 14:16:37 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 stanchions and plates
In-Reply-To: <005d01ce58af$866e74f0$934b5ed0$@uprichard.net>
References: <005d01ce58af$866e74f0$934b5ed0$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <A5BC2B6A-8754-45ED-A5B8-92E681BF8A68@flash.net>

I don't have any plates for TCF2549, stanchions bolt directly to the body.  I
imagine this was the brainchild of some Coventry cost-cutter.

Bill


Sent from my iPhone

On May 24, 2013, at 1:50 PM, "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard at uprichard.net>
wrote:

> List:
>
>
>
> How are you expected to hold the stanchion plates in place for the later
> (non-dzus) windshields?  The dzus plates have three holes for securing
> screws to the body, but the later ones have just two for the large bolts
> which go through the stanchions.  Any help appreciated.  Thanks!
>
> Andrew Uprichard
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Fri May 24 13:28:12 2013
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 12:28:12 -0700
Subject: [TR] Double Celebration
Message-ID: <CANzE1bHQ9bn57inMgCMh_0gnytgd7aRpN88ty31ZC0Erw2hbPQ@mail.gmail.com>

Just a reminder that tomorrow is the start of British Car
Week<http://www.britishcarweek.org/>
.

It is also Towel Day <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Towel_Day>.

Our local club celebrates the former with a 'Phantom Car Show' -- 2 hours,
lots of British cars, in a vacant parking lot in mid-town Tucson.

I will celebrate the latter by knowing where my towel is -- where it always
is, alongside the driver's seat of the TR.

Geo

From dave at ranteer.com  Fri May 24 13:55:14 2013
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 14:55:14 -0500
Subject: [TR] another dpo moment
In-Reply-To: <519FB4CA.1020200@gmail.com>
References: <2F0953B9-DD63-4A04-8D6C-D12B21101C34@flash.net><954BDD81-5CA2-4B8A-97CC-2C3358896E25@comcast.net>
	<519FB4CA.1020200@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <A7194E693DF043B8A30EB7322264D93F@Datsun>

does anyone have an access plate that goes behind the master cylinder?

it was apparently removed in my car so that - are you ready - the dpo could 
run a windshield washer fluid tube through that hole

so I have a big hole with a small tube . . . 

From pethier at comcast.net  Fri May 24 14:39:32 2013
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 20:39:32 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Double Celebration
In-Reply-To: <CANzE1bHQ9bn57inMgCMh_0gnytgd7aRpN88ty31ZC0Erw2hbPQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1151077792.1026832.1369427972816.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

> I will celebrate the latter by knowing where my towel is -- where it
> always
> is, alongside the driver's seat of the TR.

Sam ting.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier at comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Fri May 24 16:00:48 2013
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 15:00:48 -0700
Subject: [TR] another dpo moment
In-Reply-To: <A7194E693DF043B8A30EB7322264D93F@Datsun>
References: <2F0953B9-DD63-4A04-8D6C-D12B21101C34@flash.net><954BDD81-5CA2-4B8A-97CC-2C3358896E25@comcast.net>
	<519FB4CA.1020200@gmail.com> <A7194E693DF043B8A30EB7322264D93F@Datsun>
Message-ID: <519FE310.2090003@gmail.com>

On 5/24/13 12:55 PM, Dave wrote:
> does anyone have an access plate that goes behind the master cylinder?
It is a flat sheet metal rectangle with a hole drilled at each corner.  
Put a sheet of paper over the flat section around the hole.  Outline the 
flat section with something that writes. Mark where each of the four 
holes are and you have your template for making a plate.  Aluminum 
works.  ALMOST FORGOT TO MENTION, PUT THE PAPER ON THE INSIDE SURFACE 
AND NOT THE ENGINE BAY SIDE.


>
> it was apparently removed in my car so that - are you ready - the dpo 
> could run a windshield washer fluid tube through that hole
http://www.tr3a.info/Bulkhead.htm

Tube goes through hole # 3.  It is routed along the bulkhead just in 
front of the battery.

From jagmog at hotmail.com  Fri May 24 18:43:15 2013
From: jagmog at hotmail.com (Jonas Payne)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 17:43:15 -0700
Subject: [TR] Front Camber Adjustment - TR3
Message-ID: <BAY173-DS15D8428E9067CB304D2258C6940@phx.gbl>

After a long layup, I finally got my TR3 on the road again and noticed that
the passenger side wheel has about 1/2" of positive camber - which is about
3/4" the wrong way.

I don't see any adjustment to make.  Any ideas what happened?

We did have the transmission out several times during the layup - is it
possible that the engine may have bent the suspension tower at some point if
was unsupported at the rear?

No rust to speak of (at all) so I don't think its anything like that, and
all of the suspension bushings are new.

I got no movement on the wheel with the front end jacked up.

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting
702-882-6711

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Fri May 24 20:25:09 2013
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 22:25:09 -0400
Subject: [TR] Front Camber Adjustment - TR3
In-Reply-To: <BAY173-DS15D8428E9067CB304D2258C6940@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY173-DS15D8428E9067CB304D2258C6940@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <007801ce58ef$157043b0$4050cb10$@uprichard.net>

There is no adjustment for camber.  Did you replace the ball joints?  Some
aftermarket ball joints have the hole for the pin in the wrong position:  if
you do not tighten the whole way, you will end up with camber.  Apart from
this, you either had a major accident without knowing or the car has always
been like this.  I cannot see the suspension tower moving without some
serious trauma - and the cross member would probably reflect that.

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jonas Payne
Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 8:43 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Front Camber Adjustment - TR3

After a long layup, I finally got my TR3 on the road again and noticed that
the passenger side wheel has about 1/2" of positive camber - which is about
3/4" the wrong way.

I don't see any adjustment to make.  Any ideas what happened?

We did have the transmission out several times during the layup - is it
possible that the engine may have bent the suspension tower at some point if
was unsupported at the rear?

No rust to speak of (at all) so I don't think its anything like that, and
all of the suspension bushings are new.

I got no movement on the wheel with the front end jacked up.

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting
702-882-6711

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri May 24 22:33:58 2013
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 21:33:58 -0700
Subject: [TR] Front Camber Adjustment - TR3
In-Reply-To: <BAY173-DS15D8428E9067CB304D2258C6940@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <D2.39.11869.E2F30A15@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> After a long layup, I finally got my TR3 on the road again 
> and noticed that the passenger side wheel has about 1/2" of 
> positive camber - which is about 3/4" the wrong way.

Er, no, TR3s are designed with positive camber.  The spec is 2 degrees
(positive) "static laden", which is just about 1/2" measured across the
width of the wheel.

Sounds like your real problem is lack of camber on the driver's side.  Next
step might be to inspect the brace between the spring towers, as without the
brace the towers can definitely sag towards the center of the car,
decreasing the camber.  

In fact, it's an old racer's trick to make up a brace that is a little bit
shorter than stock, in order to get more negative camber while running in a
class that doesn't allow changes to suspension geometry.

Also look carefully at the upper A-arms, as they frequently crack and break
near the ball joint.

-- Randall 

From jagmog at hotmail.com  Sat May 25 07:55:44 2013
From: jagmog at hotmail.com (Jonas Payne)
Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 06:55:44 -0700
Subject: [TR] Front Camber Adjustment - TR3
In-Reply-To: <D2.39.11869.E2F30A15@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
References: <D2.39.11869.E2F30A15@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <BAY402-EAS76776B51D84F81FBC408C1C6940@phx.gbl>

I have my cambers messed up (again) camber is negative on pass side positive
on drivers

Sent from my iPhone

On May 24, 2013, at 9:33 PM, "Randall" <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

>> After a long layup, I finally got my TR3 on the road again
>> and noticed that the passenger side wheel has about 1/2" of
>> positive camber - which is about 3/4" the wrong way.
>
> Er, no, TR3s are designed with positive camber.  The spec is 2 degrees
> (positive) "static laden", which is just about 1/2" measured across the
> width of the wheel.
>
> Sounds like your real problem is lack of camber on the driver's side.  Next
> step might be to inspect the brace between the spring towers, as without
the
> brace the towers can definitely sag towards the center of the car,
> decreasing the camber.
>
> In fact, it's an old racer's trick to make up a brace that is a little bit
> shorter than stock, in order to get more negative camber while running in a
> class that doesn't allow changes to suspension geometry.
>
> Also look carefully at the upper A-arms, as they frequently crack and break
> near the ball joint.
>
> -- Randall

From mark at bradakis.com  Sat May 25 14:00:41 2013
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 14:00:41 -0600
Subject: [TR] A bit behind...
Message-ID: <51A11869.7070603@bradakis.com>

Finally getting around to sending out some Thank You notes to folks who 
donated
during the Team.Net spring fund drive.  Only about a month and a half 
behind.
I guess it is a good way to spend Decoration Day weekend.

mjb.

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Fri May 24 14:15:41 2013
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Fri, 24 May 2013 16:15:41 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 stanchions and plates
In-Reply-To: <29153353.710421.1369423963190.JavaMail.root@vznit170182>
References: <29153353.710421.1369423963190.JavaMail.root@vznit170182>
Message-ID: <006b01ce58bb$78bb1be0$6a3153a0$@uprichard.net>

The thought of attaching that set-up over new paint sounds scary.  At least
with the dzus type, you were able to slide the stanchions over the plates....

Thanks for the feedback!

-----Original Message-----
From: Carl TR [mailto:cfmtr3a at verizon.net]
Sent: Friday, May 24, 2013 3:33 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Cc: wbeech at flash.net; auprichard at uprichard.net
Subject: Re: Re: [TR] TR3 stanchions and plates

TS81802 came with plates that were between the stanchions and body.  similar
to the Dzus ones but without the cut-out for the springythingamajig.  There
was one extra in the parts bin - can't remember if it is left or right side.
They do have only the two holes.

Carl
1961 TR3A - TS81802LO
mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a
Tampa, Florida


On 05/24/13, WBEECH wrote:

I don't have any plates for TCF2549, stanchions bolt directly to the body. I
imagine this was the brainchild of some Coventry cost-cutter.

Bill


Sent from my iPhone

On May 24, 2013, at 1:50 PM, "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard at uprichard.net>
wrote:

> List:
>
>
>
> How are you expected to hold the stanchion plates in place for the
> later
> (non-dzus) windshields? The dzus plates have three holes for securing
> screws to the body, but the later ones have just two for the large
> bolts which go through the stanchions. Any help appreciated. Thanks!
>
> Andrew Uprichard

From dave at ranteer.com  Sat May 25 22:19:26 2013
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 23:19:26 -0500
Subject: [TR] fuel pump
In-Reply-To: <519FE310.2090003@gmail.com>
References: <2F0953B9-DD63-4A04-8D6C-D12B21101C34@flash.net><954BDD81-5CA2-4B8A-97CC-2C3358896E25@comcast.net><519FB4CA.1020200@gmail.com>
	<A7194E693DF043B8A30EB7322264D93F@Datsun> <519FE310.2090003@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <411620F734BF468E954E15A3F53DC8D2@Datsun>

hi, all.

tomorrow I'm planning to install a new fuel pump in a late tr3b.

I see it has a lever sticking out.  do I need to be sure this gets 
in/under/??  something or can I just bolt the thing up and let it take care 
of itself?

thanks!

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Sat May 25 22:39:58 2013
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Sat, 25 May 2013 23:39:58 -0500
Subject: [TR] fuel pump
In-Reply-To: <411620F734BF468E954E15A3F53DC8D2@Datsun>
References: <2F0953B9-DD63-4A04-8D6C-D12B21101C34@flash.net><954BDD81-5CA2-4B8A-97CC-2C3358896E25@comcast.net><519FB4CA.1020200@gmail.com><A7194E693DF043B8A30EB7322264D93F@Datsun>
	<519FE310.2090003@gmail.com> <411620F734BF468E954E15A3F53DC8D2@Datsun>
Message-ID: <727E12D98CE24D76A3579F677355DF04@livingroompc>

I assume you are talking about the lever that goes into block, not the 
external hand priming lever, anyhow, this lever is driven off of a lobe on 
the cam.  I am not sure if there is a special trick to installing it, I do 
know one time I must have caught the edge of the cam putting it on, and it 
bent the lever and the pump didn't work until I figured it out, bent it back 
and reinstalled it.  So make sure you keep it paralell to the mounting 
surface on the block, or close to it as you snug it down.

Greg Lemon

From jdemuth at ties2.net  Sun May 26 10:02:55 2013
From: jdemuth at ties2.net (Joe DeMuth)
Date: Sun, 26 May 2013 11:02:55 -0500
Subject: [TR] Oil Pressure in My TR6
Message-ID: <B76B78D3-2FC8-418E-8548-8427E8A4CB41@ties2.net>

Thanks all for the responses. When I wrote the original message I forgot to
mention that I had checked the thrust washers. I did look at the rocker shaft
and it appears to have been replaced by a previous owner with the bushed set
of rockers and a new shaft that Moss sells. The new oil pump from British
Northwest has given me about 10 lbs more pressure over the rpm range. Also the
screw sealing the rocker shaft oil galley was loose. I may have been loosing
some pressure there.

From creig555 at live.com  Sun May 26 17:36:01 2013
From: creig555 at live.com (Creig Houghtaling)
Date: Sun, 26 May 2013 18:36:01 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 brake problem
Message-ID: <BLU168-DS43CCC4408A70CCFA8E5D91EC950@phx.gbl>

I'm trying to help my friend with his TR6 brakes and I've managed to make
things worse.  After working on his brakes, I now have no front brakes.  New
brake booster.  Rebuilt his master cylinder.  Rebuilt both front calipers.
New rear wheel cylinders.  New flex lines all 4 wheels.  We bled the front
and the back, so there was fluid moving in the lines then.  Went to drive
the car and only back brakes.  No front.  Pulled one front wheel and pried
the pads away from the disk.  The pistons on both sides moved easily, so I
think the calipers are OK.  Stepped on the brake pedal to reset the pads on
the disk.  Looked at the pads and there was still air between the pads and
disk.  It appears there is no fluid flowing to either front wheel.

Did I do something wrong on the MC rebuild that would allow it to work OK
for a time and then fail?  One friend suggested that the PDWA could be
stopping the flow.  Maybe some crud lodged somewhere?

I guess what I should do is have my friend hold the brake, then loosen pipe
fittings to see if they bleed.  If I disconnect the pipe from the MC and no
fluid comes out, that means my MC rebuild failed.

Has anybody else had anything similar to this?

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Sun May 26 17:55:53 2013
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Sun, 26 May 2013 16:55:53 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] oil pan plug
Message-ID: <1369612553.60097.YahooMailNeo@web120606.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Newly overhauled tr-3.  Wrapped the oil pan plug with teflon tape and
tightened up to what felt solid.  It's been leading while just sitting over
winter.  Have a dinner plate size oil puddle at least.  I purchased the Moss
ball valve type spigot to install so I won't need to bother the threads in the
future.  I'd like to get a good tight seal on the valve.  Looking for
suggestions on what to use for a good oil blocking seal.  Just wrap with
thicker and thicker teflon tape?  Is there a plumbers putty/caulk that might
work.  If so does plumbers stuff work ok with the engine heat?
Just wondering
gary n.

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sun May 26 18:22:18 2013
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 26 May 2013 17:22:18 -0700
Subject: [TR] oil pan plug
In-Reply-To: <1369612553.60097.YahooMailNeo@web120606.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1369612553.60097.YahooMailNeo@web120606.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bHwMeedfyXyKma4v4=bWP6m5qusuSRvsM0YLvqC2=DO0A@mail.gmail.com>

Gary --

That's a taper thread so it should seal well with nothing added though some
Teflon tape can help a bit and possibly make it a bit easier to remove.
But...

Are you sure that the plug is the culprit?  Where that plug is situated is
a low point so drips/leaks elsewhere will finally appear as a drop on that
plug.

Is you dinner sized puddle a true puddle of wet oil on a solid surface or
is it the oil mark on a piece of cardboard or other absorbent material you
have under there?  A little oil can go a long way and a drip on cardboard
or such will spread overtime to leave a large stain even if the quantity of
oil is small.

Geo


On Sun, May 26, 2013 at 4:55 PM, Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg at yahoo.com> wrote:

> Newly overhauled tr-3.  Wrapped the oil pan plug with teflon tape and
> tightened up to what felt solid.  It's been leading while just sitting over
> winter.  Have a dinner plate size oil puddle at least.  I purchased the
> Moss
> ball valve type spigot to install so I won't need to bother the threads in
> the
> future.  I'd like to get a good tight seal on the valve.  Looking for
> suggestions on what to use for a good oil blocking seal.  Just wrap with
> thicker and thicker teflon tape?  Is there a plumbers putty/caulk that
> might
> work.  If so does plumbers stuff work ok with the engine heat?
> Just wondering
> gary n.
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com

From dave1massey at cs.com  Sun May 26 18:27:03 2013
From: dave1massey at cs.com (Dave Massey)
Date: Sun, 26 May 2013 20:27:03 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 brake problem
In-Reply-To: <BLU168-DS43CCC4408A70CCFA8E5D91EC950@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU168-DS43CCC4408A70CCFA8E5D91EC950@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <8D028880AB245E8-21B8-20057@webmail-m277.sysops.aol.com>

Sounds like there might be a problem with the tipping valve.  If the tipping
valve won't close properly you will never build pressure in the front
circuit.






Dave Massey






-----Original Message-----
From: Creig Houghtaling <creig555 at live.com>
To: triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, May 26, 2013 6:44 pm
Subject: [TR] TR6 brake problem


I'm trying to help my friend with his TR6 brakes and I've managed to make
things worse.  After working on his brakes, I now have no front brakes.  New
brake booster.  Rebuilt his master cylinder.  Rebuilt both front calipers.
New rear wheel cylinders.  New flex lines all 4 wheels.  We bled the front
and the back, so there was fluid moving in the lines then.  Went to drive
the car and only back brakes.  No front.  Pulled one front wheel and pried
the pads away from the disk.  The pistons on both sides moved easily, so I
think the calipers are OK.  Stepped on the brake pedal to reset the pads on
the disk.  Looked at the pads and there was still air between the pads and
disk.  It appears there is no fluid flowing to either front wheel.

Did I do something wrong on the MC rebuild that would allow it to work OK
for a time and then fail?  One friend suggested that the PDWA could be
stopping the flow.  Maybe some crud lodged somewhere?

I guess what I should do is have my friend hold the brake, then loosen pipe
fittings to see if they bleed.  If I disconnect the pipe from the MC and no
fluid comes out, that means my MC rebuild failed.

Has anybody else had anything similar to this?

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From wbeech at flash.net  Sun May 26 18:31:12 2013
From: wbeech at flash.net (WBEECH)
Date: Sun, 26 May 2013 19:31:12 -0500
Subject: [TR] oil pan plug
In-Reply-To: <1369612553.60097.YahooMailNeo@web120606.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1369612553.60097.YahooMailNeo@web120606.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <D7F4DCB9-D10B-4A87-8F55-CD4E75827676@flash.net>

Go to you local FLAPS and buy and oversize oil plug, should not need Teflon
tape.  Be sure to get a new copper washer with it too.

Bill

Sent from my iPhone

On May 26, 2013, at 6:55 PM, Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg at yahoo.com> wrote:

> Newly overhauled tr-3.  Wrapped the oil pan plug with teflon tape and
> tightened up to what felt solid.  It's been leading while just sitting over
> winter.  Have a dinner plate size oil puddle at least.  I purchased the
Moss
> ball valve type spigot to install so I won't need to bother the threads in
the
> future.  I'd like to get a good tight seal on the valve.  Looking for
> suggestions on what to use for a good oil blocking seal.  Just wrap with
> thicker and thicker teflon tape?  Is there a plumbers putty/caulk that
might
> work.  If so does plumbers stuff work ok with the engine heat?
> Just wondering
> gary n.
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From dave1massey at cs.com  Sun May 26 18:33:36 2013
From: dave1massey at cs.com (Dave Massey)
Date: Sun, 26 May 2013 20:33:36 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] oil pan plug
In-Reply-To: <1369612553.60097.YahooMailNeo@web120606.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1369612553.60097.YahooMailNeo@web120606.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8D02888F60778A5-21B8-20099@webmail-m277.sysops.aol.com>

There are many who will advise against using teflon tape on an application
where the threads that shed off can block oil passages.  You can find, at most
any hardware store, a teflon paste pipe dope.  This past has the teflon you
want but the particle size is small enough to pass through any critical area.

But you should be able to tighten the plug up enough to stop the leak.  Take a
closer look and see if the weld is cracked.  The leak may be from somewhere
else in which case no treatment on the plug will stop the leak.






Dave Massey






-----Original Message-----
From: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg at yahoo.com>
To: triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, May 26, 2013 6:59 pm
Subject: [TR] oil pan plug


Newly overhauled tr-3.  Wrapped the oil pan plug with teflon tape and
tightened up to what felt solid.  It's been leading while just sitting over
winter.  Have a dinner plate size oil puddle at least.  I purchased the Moss
ball valve type spigot to install so I won't need to bother the threads in
the
future.  I'd like to get a good tight seal on the valve.  Looking for
suggestions on what to use for a good oil blocking seal.  Just wrap with
thicker and thicker teflon tape?  Is there a plumbers putty/caulk that might
work.  If so does plumbers stuff work ok with the engine heat?
Just wondering
gary n.

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From tony at tonydrews.com  Sun May 26 19:41:59 2013
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sun, 26 May 2013 20:41:59 -0500
Subject: [TR] oil pan plug
In-Reply-To: <8D02888F60778A5-21B8-20099@webmail-m277.sysops.aol.com>
References: <1369612553.60097.YahooMailNeo@web120606.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<8D02888F60778A5-21B8-20099@webmail-m277.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.29.1369619152.1861.triumphs@autox.team.net>

I second the "don't use teflon tape" message.  The pipe sealant stuff 
that Dave mentions is the way to go.  No teflon tape anywhere on my 
race TR-4, pieces come off inside the pipe / engine.

On other thought - a totally drip-free Triumph may be bad karma.  :)

Cheers, Tony Drews

At 07:33 PM 5/26/2013, Dave Massey wrote:
>There are many who will advise against using teflon tape on an application
>where the threads that shed off can block oil passages.  You can find, at most
>any hardware store, a teflon paste pipe dope.  This past has the teflon you
>want but the particle size is small enough to pass through any critical area.
>
>But you should be able to tighten the plug up enough to stop the leak.  Take a
>closer look and see if the weld is cracked.  The leak may be from somewhere
>else in which case no treatment on the plug will stop the leak.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Dave Massey
>
>
>
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg at yahoo.com>
>To: triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>Sent: Sun, May 26, 2013 6:59 pm
>Subject: [TR] oil pan plug
>
>
>Newly overhauled tr-3.  Wrapped the oil pan plug with teflon tape and
>tightened up to what felt solid.  It's been leading while just sitting over
>winter.  Have a dinner plate size oil puddle at least.  I purchased the Moss
>ball valve type spigot to install so I won't need to bother the threads in
>the
>future.  I'd like to get a good tight seal on the valve.  Looking for
>suggestions on what to use for a good oil blocking seal.  Just wrap with
>thicker and thicker teflon tape?  Is there a plumbers putty/caulk that might
>work.  If so does plumbers stuff work ok with the engine heat?
>Just wondering
>gary n.
>
>** triumphs at autox.team.net **

From aljlthomson at charter.net  Sun May 26 19:42:53 2013
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex&Janet Thomson)
Date: Sun, 26 May 2013 21:42:53 -0400
Subject: [TR] oil pan plug
In-Reply-To: <1369612553.60097.YahooMailNeo@web120606.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1369612553.60097.YahooMailNeo@web120606.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <002201ce5a7b$8171f710$8455e530$@charter.net>

If it is a pipe thread type of plug, use a thread sealant called RectorSeal.
It is used for LP, Natural Gas and various types of petroleum joints. It is
gasoline and oil resistant and will stay somewhat pliable. Also, buy a new
plug. Those threads do wear every time you remove and reinstall.  Make sure
to check that the threaded area of the oil pan is not cracked or breaking
away from the pan itself.

 If the plug is a straight thread style, it probably has a flange that
requires a gasket. Some engines use copper or aluminum gaskets. Toyota used
to use a fiber gasket - that worked fine as well.

Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary Nafziger
Sent: Sunday, May 26, 2013 7:56 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] oil pan plug

Newly overhauled tr-3.  Wrapped the oil pan plug with teflon tape and
tightened up to what felt solid.  It's been leading while just sitting over
winter.  Have a dinner plate size oil puddle at least.  I purchased the Moss
ball valve type spigot to install so I won't need to bother the threads in
the future.  I'd like to get a good tight seal on the valve.  Looking for
suggestions on what to use for a good oil blocking seal.  Just wrap with
thicker and thicker teflon tape?  Is there a plumbers putty/caulk that might
work.  If so does plumbers stuff work ok with the engine heat?
Just wondering
gary n.

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun May 26 19:51:34 2013
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 26 May 2013 18:51:34 -0700
Subject: [TR] oil pan plug
In-Reply-To: <1369612553.60097.YahooMailNeo@web120606.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <86.B6.02984.A1CB2A15@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> Newly overhauled tr-3. 

Early car with straight threads on the plug, or later with tapered?  Makes a
difference ...
Moss gives the change point as TS18901E, but of course someone may have
changed the pan at some point.  And everyone knows "They are all the same"
<g>

IF it is the tapered variety, and it is leaking like that, some careful
examination is in order as there may be a crack somewhere.  I'd also want to
use a tap to clean up the threads.  Ordinary plumbers "PTFE pipe paste" is
what I prefer to help tapered threads seal.  You might want to consider a
magnetic plug instead of the drain valve.

If you have the straight threads, I suspect the fiber washer is missing or
broken.  It should seal with no help, but a little Hylomar wouldn't hurt
anything.

If all else fails, your FLAPS should have a "repair" plug that will work.  I
ran with one of the expanding rubber plugs for many years, and other than
being a bit harder to remove for oil changes, it worked out fine.

-- Randall 

From dave at ranteer.com  Sun May 26 21:31:33 2013
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Sun, 26 May 2013 22:31:33 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 brake problem
In-Reply-To: <8D028880AB245E8-21B8-20057@webmail-m277.sysops.aol.com>
References: <BLU168-DS43CCC4408A70CCFA8E5D91EC950@phx.gbl>
	<8D028880AB245E8-21B8-20057@webmail-m277.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <95497B3FAE054EA5AA341866317FF97D@Datsun>

pdwa could well be the culprit!   I have fought them on several cars


-----Original Message-----
From: Creig Houghtaling <creig555 at live.com>
To: triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, May 26, 2013 6:44 pm
Subject: [TR] TR6 brake problem


I'm trying to help my friend with his TR6 brakes and I've managed to make
things worse.  After working on his brakes, I now have no front brakes.  New
brake booster.  Rebuilt his master cylinder.  Rebuilt both front calipers.
New rear wheel cylinders.  New flex lines all 4 wheels.  We bled the front
and the back, so there was fluid moving in the lines then.  Went to drive
the car and only back brakes.  No front.  Pulled one front wheel and pried
the pads away from the disk.  The pistons on both sides moved easily, so I
think the calipers are OK.  Stepped on the brake pedal to reset the pads on
the disk.  Looked at the pads and there was still air between the pads and
disk.  It appears there is no fluid flowing to either front wheel.

Did I do something wrong on the MC rebuild that would allow it to work OK
for a time and then fail?  One friend suggested that the PDWA could be
stopping the flow.  Maybe some crud lodged somewhere?

I guess what I should do is have my friend hold the brake, then loosen pipe
fittings to see if they bleed.  If I disconnect the pipe from the MC and no
fluid comes out, that means my MC rebuild failed.

Has anybody else had anything similar to this? 

From dave at ranteer.com  Sun May 26 21:53:44 2013
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Sun, 26 May 2013 22:53:44 -0500
Subject: [TR] fule pump trials and tribulations
In-Reply-To: <8D02888F60778A5-21B8-20099@webmail-m277.sysops.aol.com>
References: <1369612553.60097.YahooMailNeo@web120606.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<8D02888F60778A5-21B8-20099@webmail-m277.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <B77AE14DA1E04920A8F8F2B7EB6C14E2@Datsun>

you may have seen some of my earlier posts about a fuel pump leaking, and 
replacing it.  here is a synapsis of my journey.

late tr3b, had sat for at least a few years; not sure really.  car was in 
pretty good shape and had been restored at one time.  we think it was 
restored and then stored in a storage unit.  something happened; the owner 
quit paying storage and the car was abandoned.  it eventually ended up in my 
hands.

I pumped out as much old gas from the tank as I could, but there was still 
some left.  After cleaning out the fuel lines the whole way, I managed to 
get it to run just on starter fluid.  I had disconnected the fuel line to 
the carbs because I didn't want any of that crap to flow into the carbs.

getting it to run in short bursts, I saw gas flow from the fuel pump out of 
the open fuel line, so I figured the fuel pump did in fact work which I had 
not expected.  So I put some new gas and a couple bottles of carb cleaner in 
the gas tank, started it up, and let it run for a few minutes.

one of my cautions is that I will run a "new" engine for just a few minutes 
and then shut it off, and look around for leaking fluids.  the first time I 
started up an engine that had actually just been sitting for many months I 
did not realize the water plug had been removed.  warped the aluminum head 
because I did not notice the puddle under it.

well done this time as well - the fuel pump was leaking quite a bit. 
fortunately, due to a previous misadventure I had a new in box fuel pump.

as so often happens, a long weekend and busy time at work intervened so it 
was a few weeks before I was able to replace the fuel pump.  The car would 
not run; would not pump gas.  I figured bad pump, made a new cork gasket for 
the old pump (at the sediment bowl), and put it back in.  I'm getting good 
at replacing fuel pumps, btw.  still would not run.

a good time to have dinner and think about things.  and get a good nights 
sleep.  next day I put in my electric fuel pump - this has never let me 
down; I always keep it around; it always works for me when other pumps fail.

no gas and no run.

time to start checking the lines.  I'm getting gas from the tank, but 
nothing out the business end.  disconnect lines one at a time and the pump 
does indeed work.  no gas in the front carb fuel bowl.  check the carb and 
the little thingee that moves up and down and lets gas in is stuck. 
remember the old gas?  whoops.  fix that and put gas in the fuel bowl. 
check the second carb - same thing.  hook things back up and it runs.

remove the electric fuel pump and reconnect the old one with the new gasket. 
car runs just fine.

so I guess I still have a spare.  and recommendations on how to clean the 
"new" one that was only in there for a few minutes?

hope you enjoyed reading this saga.

the blog continues at www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr3b

From tr3a.60 at gmail.com  Mon May 27 05:30:44 2013
From: tr3a.60 at gmail.com (John Wise)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 07:30:44 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A alternator belt again
Message-ID: <0236F748-A281-49F1-B60D-546D2C068AE7@gmail.com>

I could not get the belt suggested by my last inquiry at my friendly local
auto parts store.  So I ordered the best belt offered by Moss (Flennor
20x0900LI) to replace the failed belt on my alternator equipped 1960 TR3A.  It
does not come close in length, even when prying it as suggested in their
instructions.    It was probably intended for the much narrower generator.   I
forgot that difference in width would limit the amount it could be adjusted.
Duh

Does anyone have any other suggestions for a pulley belt that will fit a TR3A
with an alternator?

Thanks

John

John Wise
Ormond Beach, FL

1960 TR3A
http://wisegroupllc.org/_/TR3A.html

1977 Porsche 911S ('86 3.2 engine)
http://wisegroupllc.org/_/Porsche.html

From JGILLIS at tcd.ie  Mon May 27 06:22:59 2013
From: JGILLIS at tcd.ie (John Gillis)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 13:22:59 +0100
Subject: [TR] Anti rattle
Message-ID: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB036A20E17FD9@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>

TR2:       After many miles of trying to trace an annoying rattle under the
dashboard, it would appear to be the steering shaft inside the column, (why
couldn't it be something simple like a loose cable!) I fitted new anti rattle
bushes during the rebuild but clearly not doing their job, I pulled the horn
up and can't see the felt bush at the top of the column, did I omit this? I
can't remember. How big a task is removing/fitting the anti-rattle bits with
the column in place?
Regards
john

From rgt2 at sbcglobal.net  Mon May 27 07:45:46 2013
From: rgt2 at sbcglobal.net (rod Trunnell)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 06:45:46 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A alternator belt again
In-Reply-To: <0236F748-A281-49F1-B60D-546D2C068AE7@gmail.com>
References: <0236F748-A281-49F1-B60D-546D2C068AE7@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <F81245AC-5842-4D1E-B1C7-0183CB1C5C64@sbcglobal.net>

I have an alternator with the narrow pulley conversion and the belt supplied
would not fit.
I ended up with a belt from NAPA, PART NUMBER 25-7385.
This cross references to a Dayco 15385 or a Gates 7385.
The belt is 13/32" wide and 39 1/8" long.

Rod


On May 27, 2013, at 4:30 AM, John Wise <tr3a.60 at gmail.com> wrote:

> I could not get the belt suggested by my last inquiry at my friendly local
> auto parts store.  So I ordered the best belt offered by Moss (Flennor
> 20x0900LI) to replace the failed belt on my alternator equipped 1960 TR3A.
It
> does not come close in length, even when prying it as suggested in their
> instructions.    It was probably intended for the much narrower generator.
I
> forgot that difference in width would limit the amount it could be
adjusted.
> Duh
>
> Does anyone have any other suggestions for a pulley belt that will fit a
TR3A
> with an alternator?
>
> Thanks
>
> John
>
> John Wise
> Ormond Beach, FL
>
> 1960 TR3A
> http://wisegroupllc.org/_/TR3A.html
>
> 1977 Porsche 911S ('86 3.2 engine)
> http://wisegroupllc.org/_/Porsche.html
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rgt2 at sbcglobal.net

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon May 27 09:09:13 2013
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 08:09:13 -0700
Subject: [TR] Anti rattle
In-Reply-To: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB036A20E17FD9@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>
Message-ID: <81.D1.22955.D0773A15@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> After many miles of trying to trace an annoying rattle under the
> dashboard, it would appear to be the steering shaft inside the column

Are you sure it's the shaft against the column, and not the stator tube
against the shaft?  The shaft & column are pretty stiff, IMO it would take a
lot of vibration to get them to touch; but the stator tube is much more
flexible.

> How big a task is removing/fitting 
> the anti-rattle bits with the column in place?

Hmm, interesting question.  Doing it "right" means removing the steering
shaft, which only comes out through the steering box, which means you'll
have to remove the front apron and jack the front of the car way up (so the
shaft doesn't hit the floor before it clears the column).  But I suspect
that with some determination, you could find a thin tube that would fit into
the space between the shaft & column and allow the rubber rings to be pushed
down from the steering wheel end.  You'd have to remove the wheel & the felt
bushing of course.  I'm not sure if the rings would stretch over the thicker
section that rides against the felt; you might have to slit them .
 
But I would definitely try replacing the felt first, as I think that will
likely solve your problem.  While it's apart, you can double-check that the
anti-rattle springs for the stator tube are present and accounted for.

As a side comment, the felt I got from TRF was too thick and resulted in
binding.  I probably should have tried to source some thinner felt, but
instead I turned up a Delrin bushing to fit.

-- Randall 

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon May 27 09:40:40 2013
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 08:40:40 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A alternator belt again
In-Reply-To: <0236F748-A281-49F1-B60D-546D2C068AE7@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <0E.A8.16585.C6E73A15@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> Does anyone have any other suggestions for a pulley belt that 
> will fit a TR3A with an alternator?

Pull a string around the pulleys, and mark the length.  Take the string to a
local, independent auto parts store (not one of the big chains) and explain.
They'll let you try several belts until you find one that fits.  The string
will, of course, be shorter than the belt you need (because the string lays
in the bottom of the vee while the belt has to ride against the sides) but
only by an inch or so.

-- Randall 

From tony at tonydrews.com  Mon May 27 09:59:14 2013
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 10:59:14 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3A alternator belt again
In-Reply-To: <0E.A8.16585.C6E73A15@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
References: <0236F748-A281-49F1-B60D-546D2C068AE7@gmail.com>
	<0E.A8.16585.C6E73A15@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.30.1369670588.1861.triumphs@autox.team.net>

Don't know if this helps, but I went through the same kind of thing 
due to replacement of the Crank Pulley / Harmonic Dampener on my race 
TR-4.  We have a local farm supply store called Farm & Fleet which 
has a large selection of pick it yourself belts.  In my case, the 
belt is narrow so is more readily available than the original wide 
ones would be.  I bought groups of 3, tried them on my car, went back 
and returned them and bought another group of 3 until I found the 
right size.  If you have a place like this in your area, it's a 
thought.  Using Randall's string method would help get you in the 
right ballpark to start with either using the "choose it yourself" 
method or the mom and pop FLAPS store (and that's who we should be 
supporting anyway) will eventually get you there.

Cheers, Tony Drews

At 10:40 AM 5/27/2013, Randall wrote:
> > Does anyone have any other suggestions for a pulley belt that
> > will fit a TR3A with an alternator?
>
>Pull a string around the pulleys, and mark the length.  Take the string to a
>local, independent auto parts store (not one of the big chains) and explain.
>They'll let you try several belts until you find one that fits.  The string
>will, of course, be shorter than the belt you need (because the string lays
>in the bottom of the vee while the belt has to ride against the sides) but
>only by an inch or so.
>
>-- Randall

From jody007 at aol.com  Mon May 27 12:07:55 2013
From: jody007 at aol.com (Jody007)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 14:07:55 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 Brake Problem.
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3667.1369627999.1864.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.3667.1369627999.1864.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8D0291C3EC7447C-2204-25DAC@webmail-m243.sysops.aol.com>

  Center it, lock it in place by putting a BB in and then screw in a blot to
hold the BB in place.



One friend suggested that the PDWA could be
stopping the flow.

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon May 27 13:13:54 2013
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 12:13:54 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 brake problem
In-Reply-To: <95497B3FAE054EA5AA341866317FF97D@Datsun>
Message-ID: <2F.FB.16585.660B3A15@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> pdwa could well be the culprit!   I have fought them on several cars

That shouldn't be possible (which is not the same as impossible).  The PDWA
is not supposed to ever shut off the flow of fluid, only operate the big red
light on the dash.  The ends of the piston are tapered, so fluid can flow
around them even with the piston against one of the stops.

Randall

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Mon May 27 14:42:56 2013
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 16:42:56 -0400
Subject: [TR] leaf springs
Message-ID: <00ee01ce5b1a$c5daa100$518fe300$@uprichard.net>

What is the collective wisdom on re-using leaf springs ?  I am restoring a
TR3 which I acquired disassembled with springs which look like they were
cleaned and repainted.  I have heard everything from "always replace" to
"stand on them and if they don't hit the ground, you're OK" !

Andrew Uprichard

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Mon May 27 15:13:37 2013
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 17:13:37 -0400
Subject: [TR] leaf springs
In-Reply-To: <00ee01ce5b1a$c5daa100$518fe300$@uprichard.net>
References: <00ee01ce5b1a$c5daa100$518fe300$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <51A3CC81.2020607@adelphia.net>

Andrew,

I am using the original 58 springs on my 58 and the original 63 springs 
on the 63. Cars ride fine for the miles and type of driving I do. I 
always thought that was as long as there are no cracks etc. they should 
be fine.

Maybe a bit of grease between the leaves before assembly.

Bob

On 05/27/2013 04:42 PM, Andrew Uprichard wrote:
> What is the collective wisdom on re-using leaf springs ?  I am restoring a
> TR3 which I acquired disassembled with springs which look like they were
> cleaned and repainted.  I have heard everything from "always replace" to
> "stand on them and if they don't hit the ground, you're OK" !
>
> Andrew Uprichard

From trguy75 at gmail.com  Mon May 27 17:55:05 2013
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 19:55:05 -0400
Subject: [TR] Fender Attachment TR4
Message-ID: <000001ce5b35$9d632d80$d8298880$@gmail.com>

I am slowly getting my TR4 restoration project back together.  The factory
repair manual mentions using a sealant when installing the wings.  Has
anyone done that, if so, what did you use and what technique did you use.
The manual mentions applying to seam after wing installed from underneath.  

Thanks,

Jim Henningsen

62 TR4 CT5212LO

75 TR6

Ocala, FL

From darrellw360 at mac.com  Mon May 27 18:00:39 2013
From: darrellw360 at mac.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 17:00:39 -0700
Subject: [TR] Fender Attachment TR4
In-Reply-To: <000001ce5b35$9d632d80$d8298880$@gmail.com>
References: <000001ce5b35$9d632d80$d8298880$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <D95F8C84-C573-47B4-BA3A-AD300F0F861E@mac.com>

On May 27, 2013, at 4:55 PM, James Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com> wrote:

> I am slowly getting my TR4 restoration project back together.  The factory
> repair manual mentions using a sealant when installing the wings.  Has
> anyone done that, if so, what did you use and what technique did you use.
> The manual mentions applying to seam after wing installed from underneath.


When I did my car, I chose not to use anything.  My reasoning was that sealer
would just create a place to trap moisture.

I do get some (dirty) water forced up around the trim strip, but it isn't a
big deal, and I rarely drive it in the rain, anyway.

If you do use something, there is a 3M product that comes in strips similar to
modeling clay.  That would be what I would use, if I used anything.  It
remains pliable, so you can get the wings back off easily if you need to.  I
used it to help seal the transmission cover, for instance.

-Darrell

--
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA

From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com  Mon May 27 18:18:41 2013
From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 17:18:41 -0700
Subject: [TR] Bad Engine Oil Leak
In-Reply-To: <000301ce5762$0708ecc0$151ac640$@rr.com>
References: <000c01ce575c$46bc5b00$d4351100$@rr.com>
	<CAFWFMyhNcck7x_OHPf-CVjMdB1yNjMBOd9YhjnvX2aEHW03nrQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<000301ce5762$0708ecc0$151ac640$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <000301ce5b38$e88f3a80$b9adaf80$@rr.com>

All PVC valves are not equal. Got a generic one from O'Reily's. The one I
got was a really good one-way valve. Blow one way it flows, the other way is
blocks.
The factory one is sporadic at best. It opens quickly and closes just as
quick.
So I installed the generic. So far no leaks, but I have to put it under load
to see what it does.

Johnnie

> 
> Hi Irv,
> 
> Something's wrong here, and I don't believe that venting to a catch
> tank is
> the proper thing to do. The real issue in my mind is, what's changed?
> and
> how do I validate it?
> 
> My first thought was that the PVC value wasn't working properly, but I
> got a
> new diaphragm from Moss, and then a whole new PCV value, and neither
> was it.
> 
> The leak has been progressively getting worse. I'm now thinking the
> valve
> guides are leaking.
> 
> 
> 
> Johnnie
> 
> '67 TR4A
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your crankcase is pressurized and doesn't have enough venting to
> relieve the
> pressure. As a result, the pressure is pushing out the oil.
> On my TR4, I had a vent line from the rocker cover as well as a large
> (1")
> vent hose coming from where the mechanical fuel pump was.
> Ran both of those to my catch tank, and that did the trick.
> 
> HTH,
> 
> Irv Korey
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Wed, May 22, 2013 at 9:21 PM, John & Pat Donnelly
> <pdonnel1 at san.rr.com>
> wrote:
> 
> Listers,
> 
> I've been battling a bad engine oil leak on a TR4A for some time. The
> undercarriage gets wet from the engine to the differential. After
> running
> for 1/2 hr the back of the engine leaves a puddle of, maybe about 1/4
> cup
> worth, besides the half dozen others spots that occur underneath.  The
> oil
> is now coming out of mostly the rear seal after plugging everything
> else.  I
> had to remove the dipstick and plug the opening with felt because that
> would
> push oil out. The distributor pedestal bubbles out little bits where
> the
> tach cable attaches. The valve cover cap has oil coming out of the
> relief
> hole. A few years ago it was small stuff. Now it's embarrassing. I
> believe
> it's internal pressure doing it.
> 
> The PVC valve is new (as was it's predecessor). The valve cover doesn't
> leak. No leaks from the front engine mounting plate or the sump.
> 
> I've had the engine out 3X and .
> 
> 1. Changed the rear seal to the Marx seal. 1st time I tore it by the
> flywheel bolts, 2nd time verified it's intact  as evidenced through the
> 3rd
> timed pulled.
> 
> 2. Changed the piston rings. They're Deves, with openings rotated on
> thirds.
> 
> 3. Redone the epoxy for the rear cam plug. Checked it on the third time
> pulled. Perfect.
> 
> 4. Checked all the rear oil galleys and they are clear, including those
> going through the rear crank bearing housing.
> 
> So I decided this afternoon to do the compression and leak down tests.
> 
> Compression as follows on a hot engine dry/wet (2 squirts)
> 
> 1= 175/185  2 = 175/185  3 = 175/185  4 = 165/185
> 
> My  leak down test consistent of using a Harbor Fright leak down
> tester,
> again on a hot engine. I used a stethoscope to check for sounds.
> 
> Every cylinder was consistent in % of leakage. The only difference was
> that
> #1 had more air was leaking through the valve cover cap, but the % was
> similar to the others.
> 
> Checked the carb openings, they sounded consistent. Checked the dip
> stick.
> Sounded consistent. No leaks in the radiator.
> 
> Maybe it's the HF Tester? The head has not had any work done to it in
> 15
> years, I'm feeling it could it be the culprit? How do I tell?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Johnnie

From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com  Mon May 27 18:24:27 2013
From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (triumph74tr6)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 19:24:27 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 brake problem
Message-ID: <d52nmik6vyu8m5p1xp85hnjh.1369700537415@email.android.com>

It sure will if you get overzealous when bleeding. B That is exactly what it does.....closes off a perceived bad circuit. B 

Chad in TulsaRandall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:> pdwa could well be the culprit!B B  I have fought them on several cars

That shouldn't be possible (which is not the same as impossible).B  The PDWA
is not supposed to ever shut off the flow of fluid, only operate the big red
light on the dash.B  The ends of the piston are tapered, so fluid can flow
around them even with the piston against one of the stops.

Randall

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Mon May 27 18:41:08 2013
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 19:41:08 -0500
Subject: [TR] leaf springs
In-Reply-To: <51A3CC81.2020607@adelphia.net>
References: <00ee01ce5b1a$c5daa100$518fe300$@uprichard.net>
	<51A3CC81.2020607@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <489308DA34A24797A9B3702C1D58A133@livingroompc>

I agree with Bob, if they appear to be in good shape, and, if together when 
you bought it, the car was sitting level, I wouldn't replace them, in fact, 
although I am not sure about TR Springs, I know some replacement leaf 
springs for British cars have had issues, sometime arched to give too high 
of a ride height, sometimes tending to start off OK or too high then sagging 
with use, or worse yet sagging on one side only, usually driver's side, if 
it ain't broke......

Greg Lemon (currently driving a TR250 with coils springs, but many leaf 
sprung cars in the past).


--------------------------------------------------
From: "Bob Labuz" <yellowtr at adelphia.net>
Sent: Monday, May 27, 2013 4:13 PM
To: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard at uprichard.net>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] leaf springs

> Andrew,
>
> I am using the original 58 springs on my 58 and the original 63 springs on 
> the 63. Cars ride fine for the miles and type of driving I do. I always 
> thought that was as long as there are no cracks etc. they should be fine.
>
> Maybe a bit of grease between the leaves before assembly.
>
> Bob
>
> On 05/27/2013 04:42 PM, Andrew Uprichard wrote:
>> What is the collective wisdom on re-using leaf springs ?  I am restoring 
>> a
>> TR3 which I acquired disassembled with springs which look like they were
>> cleaned and repainted.  I have heard everything from "always replace" to
>> "stand on them and if they don't hit the ground, you're OK" !
>>
>> Andrew Uprichard
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/glemon at neb.rr.com 

From fishplate at charter.net  Mon May 27 18:54:34 2013
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 20:54:34 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 brake problem
In-Reply-To: <d52nmik6vyu8m5p1xp85hnjh.1369700537415@email.android.com>
References: <d52nmik6vyu8m5p1xp85hnjh.1369700537415@email.android.com>
Message-ID: <51A4004A.6000106@charter.net>

On 5/27/2013 8:24 PM, triumph74tr6 wrote:
> That is exactly what it does.....closes off a perceived bad circuit.

Pretty sure that's wrong.

See http://www.vtr.org/maintain/pdwa.shtml - the piston is a constant 
diameter.  How would it shut off flow, without some careful positioning 
of the o-ring, which shouldn't easily seal a round hole in the side of 
the bore anyway.

Some look different:  http://www.74tr6.com/pdwa.htm  But I still don't 
think it's made well enough to seal against brake pressure.

I've had my PDWA illuminate many a time on my old Spitfire, and I never 
had any diminution of brakes.  Doesn't seem safe to cut off half your 
brakes for a small leak...

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Mon May 27 19:48:12 2013
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl-TR)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 21:48:12 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 Headlamp "Pull my hair out'  Issues
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPoKQPTb8BxDhdc+Y5YHXJrCgAAAEAAAAAYo6t2wtBhAl+y3RdJenP0BAAAAAA==@verizon.net>

The project is moving along..  ran into a 'stumper' this afternoon.

 

See
http://s1001.photobucket.com/user/cfmtr3a/media/TR3AwiringCM_16LampCircuitSM
ALL.png.html  (email if problems viewing it)

 

I have all wired as in the link - but nothing happens when I flip the
switch.

Checked the fuses - ok

Checked juice from the switch - ok

Checked the live wire going into the fuse block - ok

 

But no lights.  

 

Wires feed into standard H/L pigtail.  

Grounded at Horn Tower connection.   Just in case - put a jumper from ground
lead directly to battery - no difference.

 

Anything wrong with my schematic?    

 

Next step is to disconnect at relays and bypass - but I can't believe that
both relays are bad.

 

Any insight is appreciated..

 

 

Carl

1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO

 <http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/> http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 

Still being restored - but 2013 looks like the year..

Tampa, FL

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Mon May 27 20:15:50 2013
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 19:15:50 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Headlamp "Pull my hair out' Issues
In-Reply-To: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPoKQPTb8BxDhdc+Y5YHXJrCgAAAEAAAAAYo6t2wtBhAl+y3RdJenP0BAAAAAA==@verizon.net>
References: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPoKQPTb8BxDhdc+Y5YHXJrCgAAAEAAAAAYo6t2wtBhAl+y3RdJenP0BAAAAAA==@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bGE68xLAjcKXUWtGY0Yh+i97areRGVEDpYbM5-0YE6-Bw@mail.gmail.com>

Carl -

I got to P-Bucket but it said the image had been deleted or moved.

Geo


On Mon, May 27, 2013 at 6:48 PM, Carl-TR <cfmtr3a at verizon.net> wrote:

> The project is moving along..  ran into a 'stumper' this afternoon.
>
>
>
> See
>
> http://s1001.photobucket.com/user/cfmtr3a/media/TR3AwiringCM_16LampCircuitSM
> ALL.png.html  (email if problems viewing it)
>
>
>
> I have all wired as in the link - but nothing happens when I flip the
> switch.
>
> Checked the fuses - ok
>
> Checked juice from the switch - ok
>
> Checked the live wire going into the fuse block - ok
>
>
>
> But no lights.
>
>
>
> Wires feed into standard H/L pigtail.
>
> Grounded at Horn Tower connection.   Just in case - put a jumper from
> ground
> lead directly to battery - no difference.
>
>
>
> Anything wrong with my schematic?
>
>
>
> Next step is to disconnect at relays and bypass - but I can't believe that
> both relays are bad.
>
>
>
> Any insight is appreciated..
>
>
>
>
>
> Carl
>
> 1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO
>
>  <http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/> http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/
>
> Still being restored - but 2013 looks like the year..
>
> Tampa, FL
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Mon May 27 20:33:06 2013
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 22:33:06 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 Headlamp "Pull my hair out' Issues
In-Reply-To: <CANzE1bGE68xLAjcKXUWtGY0Yh+i97areRGVEDpYbM5-0YE6-Bw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPoKQPTb8BxDhdc+Y5YHXJrCgAAAEAAAAAYo6t2wtBhAl+y3RdJenP0BAAAAAA==@verizon.net>
	<CANzE1bGE68xLAjcKXUWtGY0Yh+i97areRGVEDpYbM5-0YE6-Bw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <002b01ce5b4b$afb45930$0f1d0b90$@verizon.net>

Sorry - you may need to cut/paste - I haven't figured out how to shorten the
name.

C

 

Carl

1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO

http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 

Tampa, FL

 

From: Geo Hahn [mailto:ahwahneetr at gmail.com] 
Sent: Monday, May 27, 2013 10:16 PM
To: Carl TR
Cc: TR List
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Headlamp "Pull my hair out' Issues

 

Carl -

 

I got to P-Bucket but it said the image had been deleted or moved.

 

Geo

 

On Mon, May 27, 2013 at 6:48 PM, Carl-TR <cfmtr3a at verizon.net> wrote:

The project is moving along..  ran into a 'stumper' this afternoon.



See
http://s1001.photobucket.com/user/cfmtr3a/media/TR3AwiringCM_16LampCircuitSM
ALL.png.html  (email if problems viewing it)



I have all wired as in the link - but nothing happens when I flip the
switch.

Checked the fuses - ok

Checked juice from the switch - ok

Checked the live wire going into the fuse block - ok



But no lights.



Wires feed into standard H/L pigtail.

Grounded at Horn Tower connection.   Just in case - put a jumper from ground
lead directly to battery - no difference.



Anything wrong with my schematic?



Next step is to disconnect at relays and bypass - but I can't believe that
both relays are bad.



Any insight is appreciated..





Carl

1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO

 <http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/> http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/

Still being restored - but 2013 looks like the year..

Tampa, FL

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Mon May 27 20:37:32 2013
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 22:37:32 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 Headlamp "Pull my hair out'  Issues
In-Reply-To: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPoKQPTb8BxDhdc+Y5YHXJrCgAAAEAAAAAYo6t2wtBhAl+y3RdJenP0BAAAAAA==@verizon.net>
References: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPoKQPTb8BxDhdc+Y5YHXJrCgAAAEAAAAAYo6t2wtBhAl+y3RdJenP0BAAAAAA==@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <003001ce5b4c$4e356f90$eaa04eb0$@verizon.net>

Might be as simple as editing the link in the email...   duh!

 

Lamp_Circuit
<http://s1001.photobucket.com/user/cfmtr3a/media/TR3AwiringCM_16LampCircuitS
MALL.png.html>  

 

Of course, I am not sure if autox will accept HTML.

 

 

 

Carl

1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO

http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 

Tampa, FL

 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl-TR
Sent: Monday, May 27, 2013 9:48 PM
To: TR List 
Subject: [TR] TR3 Headlamp "Pull my hair out' Issues

 

The project is moving along..  ran into a 'stumper' this afternoon.

 

 

See

 
<http://s1001.photobucket.com/user/cfmtr3a/media/TR3AwiringCM_16LampCircuitS
M>
http://s1001.photobucket.com/user/cfmtr3a/media/TR3AwiringCM_16LampCircuitSM

ALL.png.html  (email if problems viewing it)

 

 

I have all wired as in the link - but nothing happens when I flip the
switch.

 

Checked the fuses - ok

 

Checked juice from the switch - ok

 

Checked the live wire going into the fuse block - ok

 

 

But no lights.  

 

 

Wires feed into standard H/L pigtail.  

 

Grounded at Horn Tower connection.   Just in case - put a jumper from ground

lead directly to battery - no difference.

 

 

Anything wrong with my schematic?    

 

 

Next step is to disconnect at relays and bypass - but I can't believe that
both relays are bad.

 

 

Any insight is appreciated..

 

 

 

Carl

 

1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO

 

< <http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/> http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/>
<http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/> http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 

 

Still being restored - but 2013 looks like the year..

 

Tampa, FL

From greg at gelhar.com  Mon May 27 20:41:46 2013
From: greg at gelhar.com (greg at gelhar.com)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 22:41:46 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 Headlamp "Pull my hair out'  Issues
In-Reply-To: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPoKQPTb8BxDhdc+Y5YHXJrCgAAAEAAAAAYo6t2wtBhAl+y3Rd
	JenP0BAAAAAA==@verizon.net>
References: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPoKQPTb8BxDhdc+Y5YHXJrCgAAAEAAAAAYo6t2wtBhAl+y3RdJenP0BAAAAAA==@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <007a4bb4d228f85da75679fbb2d728a7.squirrel@email.accountsupport.com>

Take a look at the schematics posted here.
http://www.advanceautowire.com/schematics.htm
The diagram on Ohoto Bucket was too confusing.

Greg G.
Osseo, MN


> The project is moving along..  ran into a 'stumper' this afternoon.
>
>
>
> See
> http://s1001.photobucket.com/user/cfmtr3a/media/TR3AwiringCM_16LampCircuitSM
> ALL.png.html  (email if problems viewing it)
>
>
>
> I have all wired as in the link - but nothing happens when I flip the
> switch.
>
> Checked the fuses - ok
>
> Checked juice from the switch - ok
>
> Checked the live wire going into the fuse block - ok
>
>
>
> But no lights.
>
>
>
> Wires feed into standard H/L pigtail.
>
> Grounded at Horn Tower connection.   Just in case - put a jumper from
> ground
> lead directly to battery - no difference.
>
>
>
> Anything wrong with my schematic?
>
>
>
> Next step is to disconnect at relays and bypass - but I can't believe that
> both relays are bad.
>
>
>
> Any insight is appreciated..
>
>
>
>
>
> Carl
>
> 1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO
>
>  <http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/> http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/
>
> Still being restored - but 2013 looks like the year..
>
> Tampa, FL
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
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From creig555 at live.com  Mon May 27 20:45:54 2013
From: creig555 at live.com (Creig Houghtaling)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 21:45:54 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 brake problem
In-Reply-To: <51A4004A.6000106@charter.net>
References: <d52nmik6vyu8m5p1xp85hnjh.1369700537415@email.android.com>
	<51A4004A.6000106@charter.net>
Message-ID: <BLU168-DS26104FEE08A90EC6918986EC970@phx.gbl>

I checked the fluid flow today.  Moving from the MC down to the driver side
front wheel, had pressure/flow before the PDWA. Had pressure/flow after the
PDWA.  Had pressure/flow just before the brake flex line.  Had no
pressure/flow just past the brand new stainless braided flex line.  I took
the braided flex line off and the fluid from the brake reservoir flowed into
my catch container.  Wiped the flex hose fittings as well as I could and
blew air through the line.  Now I have a mystery.  If air goes through,
brake fluid should pass through.

Now I am defining pressure/flow at each of the above mentioned points as
this:  My friend steps on the brake pedal.  I loosen the connection till I
see fluid bleed out, and then I retighten.  That is what I got all the way
down to the connection into the flex line.  The connection of the flex line
to the short pipe to the caliper did not bleed.  I then took the female
threaded pipe connector completely loose from the flex line.  My friend
pushed on the brakes and no fluid flow.  My only guess at this point is the
orifice on the flex line is so tiny that it managed to shut down against the
brake fluid pressure.  Perhaps some foreign object got lodged.  Removing the
line and blowing air (perhaps in the opposite direction) cleared the
obstruction.  Maybe...

Stay tuned.  Tomorrow I will get the old flex lines and put one back on the
driver side.  Then I'll check to see if I have caliper on the left and not
the right.  Might try a few other things too.  Will let you know.


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jeff
Sent: Monday, May 27, 2013 7:55 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 brake problem

On 5/27/2013 8:24 PM, triumph74tr6 wrote:
> That is exactly what it does.....closes off a perceived bad circuit.

Pretty sure that's wrong.

See http://www.vtr.org/maintain/pdwa.shtml - the piston is a constant
diameter.  How would it shut off flow, without some careful positioning of
the o-ring, which shouldn't easily seal a round hole in the side of the bore
anyway.

Some look different:  http://www.74tr6.com/pdwa.htm  But I still don't think
it's made well enough to seal against brake pressure.

I've had my PDWA illuminate many a time on my old Spitfire, and I never had
any diminution of brakes.  Doesn't seem safe to cut off half your brakes for
a small leak...

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon May 27 20:58:35 2013
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 19:58:35 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 brake problem
In-Reply-To: <51A4004A.6000106@charter.net>
Message-ID: <85.F6.02984.F4D14A15@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

PDWA = Pressure Differential Warning Actuator.  What it does is actuate the
warning (big red light on dash) when there is a pressure differential.  It's
not a valve at all, does not control flow at all.  The seals are only to
keep fluid from leaking out through the switch.

Take a look at http://goo.gl/fYlAz
You can see how both ends are turned down, so fluid can flow freely past
even when the piston is against the side of the housing.

-- Randall 

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Mon May 27 21:38:04 2013
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 20:38:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] leaf springs
Message-ID: <1369712284.15363.YahooMailNeo@web180906.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Hi Andrew,
     I disagree with the guys that say to re-use your leaf springs.
     One day about 9 years ago I was driving home in my 1960 TR3A. I was
pulling away smartly from a stop sign when I thought I heard gun shots. Here
is hicksville it would be guys shooting at doves as opposed to a drive by
shooting. Anyway, after what sounded like 5 or six loud bangs my left rear
corner of my car feel down to about 1" off the ground. All of the leaves in
the spring had broken one on top of the other in the same place. If I had been
doing my usual Jabbeke Highway re-enactments it could have been fatal. I
should post a photo of it. I still have the broken leaf spring.
     Most TR
leaf springs didn't get their recommended yearly oiling. Even now I bet most
of us still don't lube our springs like we should. Chances are that your 50
year old springs are already abused and waiting for a good time to give out. I
recommend that anyone restoring a TR3 change out the springs. It is not that
expensive or time consuming, especially if the body is off. I would also put
in an A.R.E. solid bronze bushing kit for the rear of the spring. I think that
he calls it the "Axel locating kit" or something like that.
     My car is
quite a bit more solid feeling after installing new springs.
     Good luck.
Remember if you ask three different guys you'll get 5 opinions. Be safe.
     -Bill in Tehachapi


From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard at uprichard.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] leaf springs
Message-ID:
<00ee01ce5b1a$c5daa100$518fe300$@uprichard.net>
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="us-ascii"

What is the collective wisdom on re-using leaf springs ? 
I am restoring a
TR3 which I acquired disassembled with springs which look
like they were
cleaned and repainted.  I have heard everything from "always
replace" to
"stand on them and if they don't hit the ground, you're OK" !
Andrew Uprichard

From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com  Mon May 27 21:47:04 2013
From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 20:47:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 brake problem
In-Reply-To: <85.F6.02984.F4D14A15@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
References: <51A4004A.6000106@charter.net>
	<85.F6.02984.F4D14A15@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <1369712824.42801.YahooMailNeo@web120704.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Yep.....you're right.  I'm exhausted and wrong.  :-)
 
Chad in Tulsa.
________________________________
 From: Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>
To:
triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Monday, May 27, 2013 9:58 PM
Subject: Re: [TR]
TR6 brake problem
  

PDWA = Pressure Differential Warning Actuator.  What it
does is actuate the
warning (big red light on dash) when there is a pressure
differential.  It's
not a valve at all, does not control flow at all.  The
seals are only to
keep fluid from leaking out through the switch.

Take a look
at http://goo.gl/fYlAz
You can see how both ends are turned down, so fluid can
flow freely past
even when the piston is against the side of the housing.

--
Randall 

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From pethier at comcast.net  Mon May 27 21:48:08 2013
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 03:48:08 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] leaf springs
In-Reply-To: <00ee01ce5b1a$c5daa100$518fe300$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <1952160036.1057121.1369712887996.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

After having one break on my Midget, I'd probably replace if I was doing a restoration.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier at comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

----- Original Message -----
> From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard at uprichard.net>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Monday, May 27, 2013 3:42:56 PM
> Subject: [TR] leaf springs
> What is the collective wisdom on re-using leaf springs ? I am
> restoring a
> TR3 which I acquired disassembled with springs which look like they
> were
> cleaned and repainted. I have heard everything from "always replace"
> to
> "stand on them and if they don't hit the ground, you're OK" !
> 
> Andrew Uprichard
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net

From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com  Mon May 27 23:21:19 2013
From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (Brian Induni)
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 22:21:19 -0700
Subject: [TR] Fender Attachment TR4
Message-ID: <009b01ce5b63$2fd82f30$8f888d90$@roadrunner.com>

Hi Jim,

When I put the wings back on my TR4A, I used Butyl Rubber between the mating
surfaces. Sticky stuff (don't get it on your hands!), but pretty handy to
hold the chrome fender bead in place as you get the fender lined up. The
butyl rubber comes in a tube that pops in a caulking gun, and a little bit
goes a long way. It stays soft and flexible. I've done it this way on a lot
of other restorations I've done over the years and I will continue to do it.

Brian

------------------------------

Message: 5
Date: Mon, 27 May 2013 19:55:05 -0400
From: "James Henningsen" <trguy75 at gmail.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Fender Attachment TR4
Message-ID: <000001ce5b35$9d632d80$d8298880$@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

I am slowly getting my TR4 restoration project back together.  The factory
repair manual mentions using a sealant when installing the wings.  Has
anyone done that, if so, what did you use and what technique did you use.
The manual mentions applying to seam after wing installed from underneath.  

Thanks,

Jim Henningsen

62 TR4 CT5212LO

75 TR6

Ocala, FL


------------------------------

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue May 28 05:48:15 2013
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 07:48:15 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Fender Attachment TR4
Message-ID: <de90.4d2cc5cb.3ed5f37f@cs.com>

I used a bead of rope calk in the seam.  In other words apply the calk to 
the surface that will contact the inner wing before installation so that the 
calk will fill the gap excluding water.  As you know, this is a three layer 
metal sandwich that will wick up water and rust in spite of your efforts to 
seal it off after the fact.  Your best defense is 1) a good coat of paint on 
all the surfaces (the factory only had primer on those surfaces) and B) a 
sealant to exclude water.  

I did both and 17 years later I have no evidence of rust in those areas.

Dave

In a message dated 5/27/2013 6:55:00 PM Central Daylight Time, 
trguy75 at gmail.com writes: 
> I am slowly getting my TR4 restoration project back together.  The 
> factory
> repair manual mentions using a sealant when installing the wings.  Has
> anyone done that, if so, what did you use and what technique did you use.
> The manual mentions applying to seam after wing installed from underneath. 

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue May 28 05:58:15 2013
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 07:58:15 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 brake problem
Message-ID: <e35b.6d611b61.3ed5f5d7@cs.com>

And if the O-ring did pass the opening that would create a path from the 
fluid circuits to the switch (which will not seal against the pressure -  or 
at all).

PDWA is an acronym for Pressure Differential Warning Actuator.  If it did 
more than just light the light the acronym would be different.

Great links.

Dave

In a message dated 5/27/2013 7:56:06 PM Central Daylight Time, 
fishplate at charter.net writes: 
> See http://www.vtr.org/maintain/pdwa.shtml - the piston is a constant 
> diameter.  How would it shut off flow, without some careful positioning 
> of the o-ring, which shouldn't easily seal a round hole in the side of 
> the bore anyway.

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue May 28 06:45:21 2013
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 08:45:21 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Headlamp "Pull my hair out'  Issues
Message-ID: <f01e.7a00c4e6.3ed600e1@cs.com>

The wiring diagram looks right.

A couple of quick questions: Can you hear the relays activate/deactivate 
when you operate the switch?  If the relays are not working make sure you have 
12 volts across the windings of the relays.  (Just in case you didn't 
figure this out the little circles with the + signs are ground connections.  It 
took me a few seconds to figure that out)  Also make sure the relays are 
wired up correctly.  If you swapped the winding and contact connections either 
nothing will happen or you will pop fuses.  Also make sure the headlights 
themselves are grounded.

Does the high beam indicator on the dash work?

If you have a volt meter measure the light blue and/or purple wires where 
they connect to the relays.  Put the other meter lead to ground.  Do you get 
12 volts there?

Lastly (or maybe firstly), make sure the dipper switch is functional.  
Nothing will work it that is shot.

Dave

In a message dated 5/27/2013 8:48:36 PM Central Daylight Time, 
cfmtr3a at verizon.net writes: 
> 
> The project is moving along..  ran into a 'stumper' this afternoon.
> 
> 
> 
> See
> http://s1001.photobucket.com/user/cfmtr3a/media/TR3AwiringCM_16LampCircuitS
> M
> ALL.png.html  (email if problems viewing it)
> 
> 
> 
> I have all wired as in the link - but nothing happens when I flip the
> switch.
> 
> Checked the fuses - ok
> 
> Checked juice from the switch - ok
> 
> Checked the live wire going into the fuse block - ok
> 
> 
> 
> But no lights.  
> 
> 
> 
> Wires feed into standard H/L pigtail.  
> 
> Grounded at Horn Tower connection.   Just in case - put a jumper from 
> ground
> lead directly to battery - no difference.
> 
> 
> 
> Anything wrong with my schematic?    
> 
> 
> 
> Next step is to disconnect at relays and bypass - but I can't believe that
> both relays are bad.
> 
> 
> 
> Any insight is appreciated..

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Tue May 28 07:27:26 2013
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 08:27:26 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Headlamp "Pull my hair out'  Issues - Thank you.
Message-ID: <16922265.535894.1369747646981.JavaMail.root@vznit170190>

Thanks to Dave, Randall, Greg, & George for the responses.  I will spend some time checking the various suggestions over the next few days.   I noticed on the schematic from Advanced Auto that the fuses are after the relays - I assume to protect the relays from shorting out.    Is there an advantage to that since I'll be 'up there' anyway and wouldn't be a major issue in switching.
 
Thanks again.


Carl
1961 TR3A - TS81802LO
mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a
Tampa, Florida


On 05/27/13, Carl-TR wrote:

The project is moving along.. ran into a 'stumper' this afternoon.



See
http://s1001.photobucket.com/user/cfmtr3a/media/TR3AwiringCM_16LampCircuitSM
ALL.png.html (email if problems viewing it)



I have all wired as in the link - but nothing happens when I flip the
switch.

Checked the fuses - ok

Checked juice from the switch - ok

Checked the live wire going into the fuse block - ok



But no lights. 



Wires feed into standard H/L pigtail. 

Grounded at Horn Tower connection. Just in case - put a jumper from ground
lead directly to battery - no difference.



Anything wrong with my schematic? 



Next step is to disconnect at relays and bypass - but I can't believe that
both relays are bad.



Any insight is appreciated..





Carl

1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO

<http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/> http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 

Still being restored - but 2013 looks like the year..

Tampa, FL

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From trguy75 at gmail.com  Tue May 28 09:03:22 2013
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 11:03:22 -0400
Subject: [TR] Fender Attachment TR4
In-Reply-To: <de90.4d2cc5cb.3ed5f37f@cs.com>
References: <de90.4d2cc5cb.3ed5f37f@cs.com>
Message-ID: <8897BADD-C353-4201-A367-D42B876CB4C9@gmail.com>

Great and thanks. Jim

Sent from my iPad

On May 28, 2013, at 7:48 AM, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote:

> I used a bead of rope calk in the seam.  In other words apply the calk to
> the surface that will contact the inner wing before installation so that the
> calk will fill the gap excluding water.  As you know, this is a three layer
> metal sandwich that will wick up water and rust in spite of your efforts to
> seal it off after the fact.  Your best defense is 1) a good coat of paint on
> all the surfaces (the factory only had primer on those surfaces) and B) a
> sealant to exclude water.
>
> I did both and 17 years later I have no evidence of rust in those areas.
>
> Dave
>
> In a message dated 5/27/2013 6:55:00 PM Central Daylight Time,
> trguy75 at gmail.com writes:
>> I am slowly getting my TR4 restoration project back together.  The
>> factory
>> repair manual mentions using a sealant when installing the wings.  Has
>> anyone done that, if so, what did you use and what technique did you use.
>> The manual mentions applying to seam after wing installed from underneath.
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trguy75 at gmail.com

From hdrider570 at att.net  Tue May 28 09:56:48 2013
From: hdrider570 at att.net (Q)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 08:56:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] crank case ventilation
Message-ID: <1369756608.47814.YahooMailClassic@web184303.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

The oil being sucked out happen to Richardson at Jacobe (sp).  He had told them not to run the end of the vent tube through the under-shield but the Engineers insisted.  By the end of the high speed runs the negative pressure at the tube end had sucked most of the vaporised oil out.  

Richardson did not want to open the hood to fill with oil in front of the press but was told to give the reporters rides.  He managed to do that without ruining the engine by carefully driving the car spiritedly.

Edward Hamer
Petaluma CA

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Tue May 28 11:47:12 2013
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 13:47:12 -0400
Subject: [TR] Fender Attachment TR4
In-Reply-To: <8897BADD-C353-4201-A367-D42B876CB4C9@gmail.com>
References: <de90.4d2cc5cb.3ed5f37f@cs.com>
	<8897BADD-C353-4201-A367-D42B876CB4C9@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANhzkeNOL+c2bDT48UdTrYEA1pVUOniMOmfv+Diwz9SmpwLiHA@mail.gmail.com>

Does anyone make trim that has stainless tabs vs steel?

My TR4 tabs have started to rust and leave streaks down the inside of the
door jambs.

Too long ago to remember if I used any sealant....   I did use some seam
sealer to close up some gaps in the engine compartment.....

Chris

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue May 28 11:53:23 2013
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 17:53:23 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR3 Headlamp "Pull my hair out'  Issues - Thank you.
In-Reply-To: <16922265.535894.1369747646981.JavaMail.root@vznit170190>
Message-ID: <20130528175323.V5B7S.19914.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>

---- Carl TR <cfmtr3a at verizon.net> wrote: 
> I noticed on the schematic from Advanced Auto that the fuses are after the relays - I assume to protect the relays from shorting out.
>    Is there an advantage to that since I'll be 'up there' anyway and wouldn't be a major issue in switching.

Opinions will vary (I believe Dan's original setup didn't fuse the headlight wiring at all).  Mine is that the fuses (or better yet circuit breakers) are best placed as close as possible to the power source; meaning your setup is fine in that respect.

Randall

From carlsereda at aol.com  Tue May 28 13:43:50 2013
From: carlsereda at aol.com (Carl Sereda)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 15:43:50 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] rear leaf springs
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3807.1369745358.1864.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.3807.1369745358.1864.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8D029F2CF5BD811-F34-29E4C@webmail-vd012.sysops.aol.com>

Just my experience.. noticed broken 'main leaf' on my TR4 rear driver-side
spring when looking for a funny noise around 1984...
Removed both passenger and driver side rear springs and brought to a local
company called "US Spring" (in Calif.) that still repairs
a lot of passenger and truck springs each year.

They simply disassembled the one with broken leaf and crafted a new leaf and
then reassembled. When I jump up and down on the uninstalled springs, the
driver one is a little stiffer .. which is how factory made them in later TR
production (maybe starting around TR3A).
The rebuilt spring looked great to me and I was able to put about 5 years
driving on it before removing them for my ground up restoration.
I will be installing them again, although I may do the 'teflon sheets between
leaves' trick, which I've heard enhances flexing.
Good luck,
Carl
'63 TR4 since '74




What is the collective wisdom on re-using leaf springs ?
I am restoring a
TR3 which I acquired disassembled with springs which look
like they were
cleaned and repainted.  I have heard everything from "always
replace" to
"stand on them and if they don't hit the ground, you're OK" !
Andrew Uprichard

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Tue May 28 21:16:52 2013
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Tue, 28 May 2013 20:16:52 -0700
Subject: [TR] rear leaf springs
In-Reply-To: <8D029F2CF5BD811-F34-29E4C@webmail-vd012.sysops.aol.com>
References: <mailman.3807.1369745358.1864.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<8D029F2CF5BD811-F34-29E4C@webmail-vd012.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <51A57324.6070001@gmail.com>

On 5/28/13 12:43 PM, Carl Sereda wrote:
> I will be installing them again, although I may do the 'teflon sheets between
> leaves' trick, which I've heard enhances flexing.
>
For a couple minutes yes.

To minimize the friction between the individual leaves. I like UHMW 
(ultra-high molecular weight) Polyethylene plastic.

This plastic provides a low friction surface, similar to Teflon tape, 
but with a much higher abrasion and puncture resistance. It was designed 
specifically for commercial use on chutes, packaging lines, slides, and 
anywhere high pressure metal to metal sliding contact occurs. It also 
provides sound dampening, eliminating squeaks and rattles caused by 
adjacent parts movement. The plastic's temperature range is -40 to +225 
degrees F.

You disassemble the spring pack and stick the tape to the top side of 
each individual leaf, except for the top leaf of course. This tape 
virtually eliminates the friction between adjacent leaves in the leaf 
pack and dramatically increases the spring's ability to react to bumps 
in the road.

TeriAnn

From ashleys at farmside.co.nz  Wed May 29 02:45:08 2013
From: ashleys at farmside.co.nz (ashleys)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 20:45:08 +1200
Subject: [TR] TR6 Valve Stem Seals.
Message-ID: <E9223A413B8E42B1A65BB33A23F8BA90@AshleysPC>

Hi! I need to fit AEK113 oil seals to my TR6 Head. Can this be done with the
head still fitted on block by compressed air to hold up valve for removal of
cap and collets.
I am sure with roller rockers with the wide arm oil is flooding the top of the
collar and getting passed the collets.
If the air not suitable what other trick one can do.

Thanks
ashley

From ptegler at verizon.net  Wed May 29 04:18:04 2013
From: ptegler at verizon.net (ptegler)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 06:18:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 Valve Stem Seals.
References: <E9223A413B8E42B1A65BB33A23F8BA90@AshleysPC>
Message-ID: <0255FD7AA57F4B7691408B3C0EBC86ED@dragonlairii>

In the past, personally I've used about 5-8 ft of 1/4" nylon rope, fed down 
into the sparkplug hole, rotate the engine the compress the rope up against 
the valves to hold them in place.

The issue though is the type of valve spring compressor you need to use to 
remove the collets. I built my own long lever tool that bolted to the rocker 
stud as a leverage point compress the valve allowing the collets cap and 
spring to be removed.

There are off-the-shelf spring compressor avail that look and work a bit 
like steering wheel puller or large C-clamp.... two fingers that hook the 
spring, and as you tighten the large screw, two fingers that push the cap 
down.  GEM is one manufacture of that type..... source to purchase?...you'll 
have to dig around the internet,,,, can't remember off hand here.



Paul Tegler
ptegler at verizon.net
www.teglerizer.com
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "ashleys" <ashleys at farmside.co.nz>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2013 4:45 AM
Subject: [TR] TR6 Valve Stem Seals.


> Hi! I need to fit AEK113 oil seals to my TR6 Head. Can this be done with 
> the
> head still fitted on block by compressed air to hold up valve for removal 
> of
> cap and collets.
> I am sure with roller rockers with the wide arm oil is flooding the top of 
> the
> collar and getting passed the collets.
> If the air not suitable what other trick one can do.
>
> Thanks
> ashley
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net 

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Wed May 29 04:39:01 2013
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 06:39:01 -0400
Subject: [TR] Radiator warranty on EBAY - anyone got their email address?
Message-ID: <CANhzkeOcWK66XO8+MEPCnmPXNJztqFMi5ybauDmRFE-C2rUKEw@mail.gmail.com>

I'm trying to put together a group buy on TR2/TR3 long neck aluminum
radiators from a company called RadiatorWarranty on Ebay.

Does anyone have their direct email address?

Chris

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed May 29 06:39:28 2013
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 08:39:28 -0400
Subject: [TR] Radiator warranty on EBAY - anyone got their email address?
In-Reply-To: <CANhzkeOcWK66XO8+MEPCnmPXNJztqFMi5ybauDmRFE-C2rUKEw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANhzkeOcWK66XO8+MEPCnmPXNJztqFMi5ybauDmRFE-C2rUKEw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <16CE7D44D20B4DB1A2BFABEAF55B4864@BobDell>

Just go to any of their eBay listings and toward the bottom is an "Ask 
Seller" link. Open up the response box and select the topic Other and ask 
them your question and request an email address. That's how I've done it in 
the past.

Bob


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/

1975 TR6 modified with:
-Throttle Body Injection
-Toyota 5 Speed
-Nissan Differential
-AAW Wire Harness
-CVJs... and more

-----Original Message----- 
From: Chris Simo
Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2013 6:39 AM
To: list Triumph
Subject: [TR] Radiator warranty on EBAY - anyone got their email address?

I'm trying to put together a group buy on TR2/TR3 long neck aluminum
radiators from a company called RadiatorWarranty on Ebay.

Does anyone have their direct email address?

Chris

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From dconnitt at fuse.net  Wed May 29 09:18:42 2013
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 11:18:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 Valve Stem Seals.
In-Reply-To: <E9223A413B8E42B1A65BB33A23F8BA90@AshleysPC>
References: <E9223A413B8E42B1A65BB33A23F8BA90@AshleysPC>
Message-ID: <44282F64EA53452698C991078815226C@DaveLaptop>

Ashley,
The answer is yes..
That is if you can find one of the little gizmos that screws into the spark 
plug hole with an air chuck on the other end. You also need a air 
compressor. I have used one in the past.. many, many years ago. As I 
remember, it worked pretty well. You might be able to make one using an old 
spark plug and a air hose fitting but that would take a welder or brazing 
outfit. See how the tools keep piling up?
Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A IRS
Almost running after 13 years
http://home.fuse.net/davest4A


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "ashleys" <ashleys at farmside.co.nz>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2013 4:45 AM
Subject: [TR] TR6 Valve Stem Seals.


> Hi! I need to fit AEK113 oil seals to my TR6 Head. Can this be done with 
> the
> head still fitted on block by compressed air to hold up valve for removal 
> of
> cap and collets.
> I am sure with roller rockers with the wide arm oil is flooding the top of 
> the
> collar and getting passed the collets.
> If the air not suitable what other trick one can do.
>
> Thanks
> ashley
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dconnitt at fuse.net 

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Wed May 29 09:43:23 2013
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 08:43:23 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3A alternator belt again
In-Reply-To: <0236F748-A281-49F1-B60D-546D2C068AE7@gmail.com>
References: <0236F748-A281-49F1-B60D-546D2C068AE7@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1369842203.46754.YahooMailNeo@web120005.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

John
i have same problem.
i have to take out one of the bolts that hold my
alternator to the block and then slip the belt over the pulley.
then i get to
push the alternator back and re attach the bolt. requires some use of old
Saxon words and scotch
 
Frank

From: John Wise <tr3a.60 at gmail.com>
To: car
discussion Sports Triumph <triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Monday, May 27,
2013 4:30 AM
Subject: [TR] TR3A alternator belt again


I could not get the
belt suggested by my last inquiry at my friendly local
auto parts store.  So I
ordered the best belt offered by Moss (Flennor
20x0900LI) to replace the
failed belt on my alternator equipped 1960 TR3A.  It
does not come close in
length, even when prying it as suggested in their
instructions.    It was
probably intended for the much narrower generator.  I
forgot that difference
in width would limit the amount it could be adjusted.
Duh

Does anyone have
any other suggestions for a pulley belt that will fit a TR3A
with an
alternator?

Thanks

John

John Wise
Ormond Beach, FL

1960 TR3A
http://wisegroupllc.org/_/TR3A.html

1977 Porsche 911S ('86 3.2 engine)
http://wisegroupllc.org/_/Porsche.html

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From mhooper at indiefilmnet.com  Wed May 29 09:50:00 2013
From: mhooper at indiefilmnet.com (Mark Hooper)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 11:50:00 -0400
Subject: [TR] rear leaf springs
In-Reply-To: <51A57324.6070001@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2fc76dc3.1ce5c84.4e073d1.4823@indiefilmnet.com>

I've never understood how leaf springs don't just build up a dust layer
between the leaves and then sand (abrade) themselves down to wafers in no
time. Always thought they must need a boot to avoid the problem, but having
seen many large dump trucks with huge leaf springs that spend their days in
dirt and dust, I guess it isn't so.

Mark
1972 TR6


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of TeriAnn J. Wakeman
Sent: May-28-13 11:17 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] rear leaf springs

On 5/28/13 12:43 PM, Carl Sereda wrote:
> I will be installing them again, although I may do the 'teflon sheets
between
> leaves' trick, which I've heard enhances flexing.
>
For a couple minutes yes.

To minimize the friction between the individual leaves. I like UHMW
(ultra-high molecular weight) Polyethylene plastic.

This plastic provides a low friction surface, similar to Teflon tape,
but with a much higher abrasion and puncture resistance. It was designed
specifically for commercial use on chutes, packaging lines, slides, and
anywhere high pressure metal to metal sliding contact occurs. It also
provides sound dampening, eliminating squeaks and rattles caused by
adjacent parts movement. The plastic's temperature range is -40 to +225
degrees F.

You disassemble the spring pack and stick the tape to the top side of
each individual leaf, except for the top leaf of course. This tape
virtually eliminates the friction between adjacent leaves in the leaf
pack and dramatically increases the spring's ability to react to bumps
in the road.

TeriAnn

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Wed May 29 10:39:59 2013
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 12:39:59 -0400
Subject: [TR] Radiator warranty on EBAY - anyone got their email address?
In-Reply-To: <16CE7D44D20B4DB1A2BFABEAF55B4864@BobDell>
References: <CANhzkeOcWK66XO8+MEPCnmPXNJztqFMi5ybauDmRFE-C2rUKEw@mail.gmail.com>
	<16CE7D44D20B4DB1A2BFABEAF55B4864@BobDell>
Message-ID: <CANhzkePmBhCgrjgiFZPPw7HDZReKSmCQrZMduDCD9KwGGEwpYg@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks Bob,  But I'm trying to contact outside EBAY channels.   EBAY frowns
on people using ebay to work deals outside of ebay - it seems to affect
their revenue....

They don't allow email addresses in the contact seller messages.

From wbeech at flash.net  Wed May 29 10:57:52 2013
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 11:57:52 -0500
Subject: [TR] Radiator warranty on EBAY - anyone got their email address?
In-Reply-To: <CANhzkePmBhCgrjgiFZPPw7HDZReKSmCQrZMduDCD9KwGGEwpYg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANhzkeOcWK66XO8+MEPCnmPXNJztqFMi5ybauDmRFE-C2rUKEw@mail.gmail.com><16CE7D44D20B4DB1A2BFABEAF55B4864@BobDell>
	<CANhzkePmBhCgrjgiFZPPw7HDZReKSmCQrZMduDCD9KwGGEwpYg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <A0BBA11FB9604FD3AE6830D70B62749A@bboffice>

How about a phone number or web address?
Bill
Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Keep Calm and Carry On

 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Simo
Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2013 11:40 AM
To: list Triumph
Subject: Re: [TR] Radiator warranty on EBAY - anyone got their email
address?

Thanks Bob,  But I'm trying to contact outside EBAY channels.   EBAY frowns
on people using ebay to work deals outside of ebay - it seems to affect
their revenue....

They don't allow email addresses in the contact seller messages.

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Wed May 29 11:05:44 2013
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 13:05:44 -0400
Subject: [TR] Radiator warranty on EBAY - anyone got their email address?
In-Reply-To: <A0BBA11FB9604FD3AE6830D70B62749A@bboffice>
References: <CANhzkeOcWK66XO8+MEPCnmPXNJztqFMi5ybauDmRFE-C2rUKEw@mail.gmail.com>
	<16CE7D44D20B4DB1A2BFABEAF55B4864@BobDell>
	<CANhzkePmBhCgrjgiFZPPw7HDZReKSmCQrZMduDCD9KwGGEwpYg@mail.gmail.com>
	<A0BBA11FB9604FD3AE6830D70B62749A@bboffice>
Message-ID: <CANhzkeOLhUjbhxgK4+1kQU+BOhi4dXzuB6WOsGyv2PcXGJ2bdw@mail.gmail.com>

> I will have to try that.

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Wed May 29 11:11:05 2013
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 13:11:05 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A alternator belt again
In-Reply-To: <1369842203.46754.YahooMailNeo@web120005.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <0236F748-A281-49F1-B60D-546D2C068AE7@gmail.com>
	<1369842203.46754.YahooMailNeo@web120005.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CANhzkeNd_We0m9ACW5=kRjqjZyEZd-L9pA2uYyVUqDGS5Vf_dg@mail.gmail.com>

Me too -- I would take the water pump pully off until I used that locktite
product to close up the tolerance between the pulley and the shaft.

Now it's pull the bolt on the bottom of the alternator slip the belt on and
reverse the dissassembly process.  Usually no scotch or other lubricant
required.

Make sure you line up the alternator with those other pully's really well.

Those pressed metal pulley's on the crank develop stress cracks and fly
apart. I had one go - and dug out all my spares and after media blasting
all of them had cracks. Finally found one on my spare motor that was crack
free.

Chris

From dlhogye at comcast.net  Wed May 29 11:35:48 2013
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 17:35:48 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] rear leaf springs
In-Reply-To: <51A57324.6070001@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1743938702.2383226.1369848948709.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Hello Teriann and others, 
The tape idea seams like a good plan, but I think you might be creating a possible squish problem with a relatively soft material between the leafs. I would think that the tape can collapse a bit under the axle and between the U-bolts. This might be evident if the U-bolts can be further tightened later on. I've read that even a thick coat of paint between the leafs can cause problems and should be avoided. Google leaf spring rebuilding. I disassemble the springs on my TR3, cleaned them, repainted the leafs separately with a light coat of paint then scuffed them with a Scotch Brite pad where they contact each other, applied a little bit of high pressure grease between the leafs and reassemble them. I also dressed the sharp edge at the end of each leaf with a sanding disc to limit the gouging that occurs. That's my 2 cents. I think they are working beautifully. I also installed the ARE axle locating kit, this is a great product. 


Dave H. 

----- Original Message -----
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman at gmail.com> 
To: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2013 8:16:52 PM 
Subject: Re: [TR] rear leaf springs 

On 5/28/13 12:43 PM, Carl Sereda wrote: 
> I will be installing them again, although I may do the 'teflon sheets between 
> leaves' trick, which I've heard enhances flexing. 
> 
For a couple minutes yes. 

To minimize the friction between the individual leaves. I like UHMW 
(ultra-high molecular weight) Polyethylene plastic. 

This plastic provides a low friction surface, similar to Teflon tape, 
but with a much higher abrasion and puncture resistance. It was designed 
specifically for commercial use on chutes, packaging lines, slides, and 
anywhere high pressure metal to metal sliding contact occurs. It also 
provides sound dampening, eliminating squeaks and rattles caused by 
adjacent parts movement. The plastic's temperature range is -40 to +225 
degrees F. 

You disassemble the spring pack and stick the tape to the top side of 
each individual leaf, except for the top leaf of course. This tape 
virtually eliminates the friction between adjacent leaves in the leaf 
pack and dramatically increases the spring's ability to react to bumps 
in the road. 

TeriAnn 

** triumphs at autox.team.net ** 

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye at comcast.net 

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed May 29 11:45:56 2013
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 13:45:56 -0400
Subject: [TR] Radiator warranty on EBAY - anyone got their email address?
In-Reply-To: <CANhzkePmBhCgrjgiFZPPw7HDZReKSmCQrZMduDCD9KwGGEwpYg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANhzkeOcWK66XO8+MEPCnmPXNJztqFMi5ybauDmRFE-C2rUKEw@mail.gmail.com><16CE7D44D20B4DB1A2BFABEAF55B4864@BobDell>
	<CANhzkePmBhCgrjgiFZPPw7HDZReKSmCQrZMduDCD9KwGGEwpYg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C6C70505FEB14640A3169012C503A79B@BobDell>

I know that but the seller is usually more than willing to contact you if 
you give them your email address.

BTW.... I did a group buy on a custom 14 gallon aluminum gas tank that I 
designed. I found a company in Florida that does nothing but custom aluminum 
tanks for cars, planes and boats. On a $475 tank, the sale price was $425 
and 15 guys bought one. Rather than me handling any money we set it up that 
anyone who ordered directly from the shop in a 10 day buying period got that 
price. They had to put down a $100 deposit with the balance due on shipping. 
It's far more economical for the shop to do a 15 tank production run that 
than to do 1 or 2 at a time.

You don't want to get in the middle of handling the money!

Bob


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/

1975 TR6 modified with:
-Throttle Body Injection
-Toyota 5 Speed
-Nissan Differential
-AAW Wire Harness
-CVJs... and more

-----Original Message----- 
From: Chris Simo
Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2013 12:39 PM
To: list Triumph
Subject: Re: [TR] Radiator warranty on EBAY - anyone got their email 
address?

Thanks Bob,  But I'm trying to contact outside EBAY channels.   EBAY frowns
on people using ebay to work deals outside of ebay - it seems to affect
their revenue....

They don't allow email addresses in the contact seller messages.

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Wed May 29 12:30:53 2013
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 11:30:53 -0700
Subject: [TR] rear leaf springs
In-Reply-To: <1743938702.2383226.1369848948709.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1743938702.2383226.1369848948709.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <51A6495D.40505@gmail.com>

On 5/29/13 10:35 AM, davehogye wrote:
> Hello Teriann and others,
> The tape idea seams like a good plan, but I think you might be 
> creating a possible squish problem with a relatively soft material 
> between the leafs.  I would think that the tape can collapse a bit 
> under the axle and between the U-bolts.
I have had sheets of UHMW plastic between the spring leaves under my 
long wheelbase Land Rover for over almost 15 years now and they are 
still there and my ride is softer than it would be with new springs.

TeriAnn
>
> To minimize the friction between the individual leaves. I like UHMW
> (ultra-high molecular weight) Polyethylene plastic.
>
> This plastic provides a low friction surface, similar to Teflon tape,
> but with a much higher abrasion and puncture resistance. It was designed
> specifically for commercial use on chutes, packaging lines, slides, and
> anywhere high pressure metal to metal sliding contact occurs. It also
> provides sound dampening, eliminating squeaks and rattles caused by
> adjacent parts movement. The plastic's temperature range is -40 to +225
> degrees F.
>
...

From areich at telus.net  Wed May 29 13:06:56 2013
From: areich at telus.net (Allan Reich)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 12:06:56 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 - Front Axle Upgrade kits
Message-ID: <51A651D0.1030100@telus.net>

Greetings:
My TR6 has the Front Axle Upgrade Kit , available from a number of 
suppliers, installed by previous owner. These are the kits that include 
an extension that fits over the axle between the inner and outer 
bearings to consolidate the axles and the bearings (an example is Moss 
661-293).
I discovered this after I blew a front bearing and took everything apart.
I replaced both side's  front bearing sets (inner, outer, including 
races) but had trouble on each.
I found set-up instructions on the web.
When doing the fit without the seals, the passenger side was loose 
without any shims, so I just removed the stiffners and set up as normal 
bearings.
When doing the driver side, it set up well with two shims without the 
seal. When I put the tire rotates but with lots of effort.
I have a few questions:
     1. Who makes these kits and can I contact them with questions?
     2. Can I machine down the loose extender to make it tighter and 
where would I find shims?
     3. Will the driver side loosen up over time and act normally?
Allan Reich
1975 TR6 CF30255U (+O)
Vancouver, Canada

From emanteno at comcast.net  Wed May 29 13:45:27 2013
From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 14:45:27 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 - Front Axle Upgrade kits
In-Reply-To: <51A651D0.1030100@telus.net>
References: <51A651D0.1030100@telus.net>
Message-ID: <CAFWFMyhC+d0dqdLQCdziNqoTN6S+hE7gPXVWoEgCXkC6SSyWGA@mail.gmail.com>

Contact Tony Drews at tony at tonydrews.com.

His father Jack designed this kit, and Tony can provide you with the
directions as well as replacement shims if you want/need them. When
properly set up, this kit eliminates brake pad knockback, which is a common
TR issue after hard cornering. Your wheel that is hard to turn is not set
up properly and you'll end up toasting another bearing.

NFI.

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U (with the front axle spacer kit)
Highland Park, IL

On Wed, May 29, 2013 at 2:06 PM, Allan Reich <areich at telus.net> wrote:

> Greetings:
> My TR6 has the Front Axle Upgrade Kit , available from a number of
> suppliers, installed by previous owner. These are the kits that include an
> extension that fits over the axle between the inner and outer bearings to
> consolidate the axles and the bearings (an example is Moss 661-293).
> I discovered this after I blew a front bearing and took everything apart.
> I replaced both side's  front bearing sets (inner, outer, including races)
> but had trouble on each.
> I found set-up instructions on the web.
> When doing the fit without the seals, the passenger side was loose without
> any shims, so I just removed the stiffners and set up as normal bearings.
> When doing the driver side, it set up well with two shims without the
> seal. When I put the tire rotates but with lots of effort.
> I have a few questions:
>     1. Who makes these kits and can I contact them with questions?
>     2. Can I machine down the loose extender to make it tighter and where
> would I find shims?
>     3. Will the driver side loosen up over time and act normally?
> Allan Reich
> 1975 TR6 CF30255U (+O)
> Vancouver, Canada
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From wbeech at flash.net  Wed May 29 14:01:24 2013
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 15:01:24 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 Sway bar
Message-ID: <F7C150DE320F4CCA820D5BA2AA73B954@bboffice>

As I now have the TR3B to the "Chassis Complete" stage and am waiting on the
body shop I am thinking of other things I can do.  I have determined that an
anti-sway bar might be a good upgrade at reasonable cost, but I have never
shopped for nor installed one before.
 
What is the List consensus on sway bars?  Front vs Rear, should I do both?
Who are the Good/Better/Best equipment providers?  I don't go racing but am
a fairly spirited country roads driver.
 
Many thanks,
Bill
 
Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
 <http://www.triumphowners.com/1566> www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Keep Calm and Carry On

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Wed May 29 14:05:04 2013
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 13:05:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3 head gasket
Message-ID: <1369857904.70418.YahooMailNeo@web120001.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

its been a while since i rebuilt my motor.
is there a different head gasket
for the 87mm liners than for the 83mm???
 
thanks
Frank

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed May 29 14:29:23 2013
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 13:29:23 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 - Front Axle Upgrade kits
In-Reply-To: <51A651D0.1030100@telus.net>
Message-ID: <BC.B3.11869.12566A15@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

>      2. Can I machine down the loose extender to make it 
> tighter and where would I find shims?

Yes it can be machined.  In fact, you can probably do it yourself, with a
flat surface and a sheet of fine sandpaper.  Any industrial supply house
should have shims, though you'll need to find the appropriate sizes
yourself.  Note that it's better to have thicker shims if possible; the
.003" and smaller can sometimes tear in service.

>      3. Will the driver side loosen up over time and act normally?

Loosen up, yes.  But failure won't be far behind.  Either remove the spacer
or add the shims before you try to drive the car.

Randall

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed May 29 14:31:56 2013
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 16:31:56 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 - Front Axle Upgrade kits
In-Reply-To: <51A651D0.1030100@telus.net>
References: <51A651D0.1030100@telus.net>
Message-ID: <6CC8D51A4B764C838E26B46BA57076CF@BobDell>

As Irv pointed out that kit was designed, made and sold by Jack & Tony Drews 
as part of their racing effort. Contact Tony for the latest instructions as 
they don't install and "adjust" like stock bearings. I've got a whole write 
up with pictures on my site (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/StubAxle.htm) 
along with the instructions that Jack gave me at the time..........I'll 
always remember emailing Jack about buying the kit and getting an UPS email 
tracking number before I even had a chance to send him a check.... the days 
before PayPal.

Bob

Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/

1975 TR6 modified with:
-Throttle Body Injection
-Toyota 5 Speed
-Nissan Differential
-AAW Wire Harness
-CVJs... and more


-----Original Message----- 
From: Allan Reich
Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2013 3:06 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR6 - Front Axle Upgrade kits

Greetings:
My TR6 has the Front Axle Upgrade Kit , available from a number of
suppliers, installed by previous owner. These are the kits that include
an extension that fits over the axle between the inner and outer
bearings to consolidate the axles and the bearings (an example is Moss
661-293).
I discovered this after I blew a front bearing and took everything apart.
I replaced both side's  front bearing sets (inner, outer, including
races) but had trouble on each.
I found set-up instructions on the web.
When doing the fit without the seals, the passenger side was loose
without any shims, so I just removed the stiffners and set up as normal
bearings.
When doing the driver side, it set up well with two shims without the
seal. When I put the tire rotates but with lots of effort.
I have a few questions:
     1. Who makes these kits and can I contact them with questions?
     2. Can I machine down the loose extender to make it tighter and
where would I find shims?
     3. Will the driver side loosen up over time and act normally?
Allan Reich
1975 TR6 CF30255U (+O)
Vancouver, Canada

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed May 29 14:37:04 2013
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 13:37:04 -0700
Subject: [TR] rear leaf springs
In-Reply-To: <1743938702.2383226.1369848948709.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <13.59.16585.DE666A15@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> The tape idea seams like a good plan, but I think you might 
> be creating a possible squish problem with a relatively soft 
> material between the leafs.

That's the reason for using UHMW rather than Teflon.

-- Randall 

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed May 29 14:44:46 2013
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 13:44:46 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 Valve Stem Seals.
In-Reply-To: <44282F64EA53452698C991078815226C@DaveLaptop>
Message-ID: <58.EF.02984.CB866A15@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> That is if you can find one of the little gizmos that screws 
> into the spark plug hole with an air chuck on the other end.

I don't know if they are all that way, but my screw-in type compression
gauge ("Sunpro" brand I think) has a regular 1/8" NPT fitting at the gauge.
So I can just unscrew the gauge and screw in an air line fitting (with a
suitable adapter from Home Depot).  Remove the Schrader valve core at the
tip, and go to work.

-- Randall 

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Wed May 29 15:04:54 2013
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 14:04:54 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 head gasket
In-Reply-To: <1369857904.70418.YahooMailNeo@web120001.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1369857904.70418.YahooMailNeo@web120001.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bEOZqRqrRvAmJF-4zd=17vw42Sh7WWUm5GGztdKFanfpA@mail.gmail.com>

I believe an 87mm is what is supplied to fit 83-87mm cylinder heads.  Seems
to be no problem using an 87mm gasket on an 83mm engine.

Geo


On Wed, May 29, 2013 at 1:05 PM, Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com> wrote:

> its been a while since i rebuilt my motor.
> is there a different head gasket
> for the 87mm liners than for the 83mm???
>
> thanks
> Frank
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Wed May 29 15:12:07 2013
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 14:12:07 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 Valve Stem Seals.
In-Reply-To: <58.EF.02984.CB866A15@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
References: <44282F64EA53452698C991078815226C@DaveLaptop>
	<58.EF.02984.CB866A15@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bGjLm0wX3wGRFg6FQ4fH_YBG2XUmtzJBvLnBR21vaKRYw@mail.gmail.com>

On Wed, May 29, 2013 at 1:44 PM, Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

> > That is if you can find one of the little gizmos that screws
> > into the spark plug hole with an air chuck on the other end.
>
> ...my screw-in type compression
> gauge ("Sunpro" brand I think) has a regular 1/8" NPT fitting at the gauge.
> So I can just unscrew the gauge and screw in an air line fitting (with a
> suitable adapter from Home Depot).  Remove the Schrader valve core at the
> tip, and go to work.



Same set-up also makes a crude but effective leak down test (if you're more
interested in listening for the leakage than pursuing actual numbers).

Geo

From dlhogye at comcast.net  Wed May 29 16:03:11 2013
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 22:03:11 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] rear leaf springs
In-Reply-To: <51A6495D.40505@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1393857020.2395567.1369864991547.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Thanks for the clarification regarding the plastic material. It sounds like a good idea. 

Dave 

----- Original Message -----
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman at gmail.com> 
To: "davehogye" <dlhogye at comcast.net> 
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2013 11:30:53 AM 
Subject: Re: [TR] rear leaf springs 


On 5/29/13 10:35 AM, davehogye wrote: 



Hello Teriann and others, 
The tape idea seams like a good plan, but I think you might be creating a possible squish problem with a relatively soft material between the leafs. I would think that the tape can collapse a bit under the axle and between the U-bolts. 


I have had sheets of UHMW plastic between the spring leaves under my long wheelbase Land Rover for over almost 15 years now and they are still there and my ride is softer than it would be with new springs. 

TeriAnn 

<blockquote>



To minimize the friction between the individual leaves. I like UHMW 
(ultra-high molecular weight) Polyethylene plastic. 

This plastic provides a low friction surface, similar to Teflon tape, 
but with a much higher abrasion and puncture resistance. It was designed 
specifically for commercial use on chutes, packaging lines, slides, and 
anywhere high pressure metal to metal sliding contact occurs. It also 
provides sound dampening, eliminating squeaks and rattles caused by 
adjacent parts movement. The plastic's temperature range is -40 to +225 
degrees F. 


</blockquote>
... 

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Wed May 29 16:19:24 2013
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 15:19:24 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Sway bar
In-Reply-To: <F7C150DE320F4CCA820D5BA2AA73B954@bboffice>
References: <F7C150DE320F4CCA820D5BA2AA73B954@bboffice>
Message-ID: <51A67EEC.1070702@gmail.com>

On 5/29/13 1:01 PM, wbeech at flash.net wrote:
> What is the List consensus on sway bars?  Front vs Rear, should I do both?
> Who are the Good/Better/Best equipment providers?  I don't go racing but am
> a fairly spirited country roads driver.
>
Bill, front sway bars make a huge difference in cornering.  My 3 has a 
front sway bar, factory competition spec front springs & SPAX shocks 
adjusted to the firm side.

Most people agree that for a 3 you want to have a tight front end and a 
loose rear end to help keep both rear wheels on the ground. Rear sway 
bars seem to give you good cornering up to an unpredictable point where 
the rear end goes off on its own direction.  I'm not positive but I 
think the point is when a rear tyre gets lifted enough to loose 
traction.  For predictable handling on high speed curves you don't want 
a rear sway bar.

For years the go to person for front sway bars has been Ted.

http://tsimportedautomotive.com/index.html


TeriAnn

From dlhogye at comcast.net  Wed May 29 16:29:00 2013
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 22:29:00 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Sway bar
In-Reply-To: <F7C150DE320F4CCA820D5BA2AA73B954@bboffice>
Message-ID: <1813156782.2396651.1369866540266.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Definitely add a front anti-sway bar only. 5/8" minimum. I have a 7/8" on my TR3 and it works great. The springs and shocks will affect the ride comfort, not the bar. I think Addco can supply a bar if you don't find one through the main British suppliers. I think TR3 bars are harder to come by than the TR4. TR4 will work but it's wider to fit the wider TR4 frame. If you can find one for the TR3 specifically, that would be the one to get. Addco will make one for you to your specs for a very reasonable price. There are a couple companies from the UK that might make one to fit just the TR3, but the price with shipping can be an issue. 


Dave H. 

----- Original Message -----
From: wbeech at flash.net 
To: "list Triumph" <triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2013 1:01:24 PM 
Subject: [TR] TR3 Sway bar 

As I now have the TR3B to the "Chassis Complete" stage and am waiting on the 
body shop I am thinking of other things I can do. I have determined that an 
anti-sway bar might be a good upgrade at reasonable cost, but I have never 
shopped for nor installed one before. 

What is the List consensus on sway bars? Front vs Rear, should I do both? 
Who are the Good/Better/Best equipment providers? I don't go racing but am 
a fairly spirited country roads driver. 

Many thanks, 
Bill 

Bill Beecher 
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby" 
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab) 
<http://www.triumphowners.com/1566> www.triumphowners.com/1566 
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" 
"Keep Calm and Carry On 

** triumphs at autox.team.net ** 

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye at comcast.net 

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Wed May 29 16:59:28 2013
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 22:59:28 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR6 alternator mounting
Message-ID: <1804806034.606935.1369868368468.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

List, 



Late TR6's with the air pump have the alternator mounting bracket on top and the adjusting link on the bottom. How does one utilize the Bosch alternator for this arrangement? Is there an alternative alternator? Or can the bracket on the Bosch unit be rotated? Or must one find a mounting bracket from and earlier TR6, one w/o the air pump? 



TIA, 



Ed Woods 

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Wed May 29 17:31:06 2013
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 23:31:06 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Alternator mounting
Message-ID: <1647861367.607975.1369870266900.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

List, 



I don't believe I understand the problem. Here's the message I received regarding the alternator mounting. Can anyone shed any light on it? Can't the alternator just be rotated 180 degrees to fit the late cars? What am I missing here? 



"Think I found the problem. Look at the pix below. My adjustment bracket is under the alternator where all the pictures show the bracket on top. Assuming mtg is same for all TR6 models at least the holes in the motor for the lower bracket think I can order a bracket from a 74 as shown in these pix and install it so the alternator will bolt up? If so I need to get it done quick since we need a working alternator for the car. Unless you have something in your inventory. Let me know 
Thx" 




TIA, 



Ed Woods 

From agraham at execulink.com  Wed May 29 17:51:23 2013
From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 19:51:23 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 emerg. brake boot
Message-ID: <51A6947B.4050501@execulink.com>

Hello List:
Puzzling over some of the trim issues with my '2 project. Does the 
emerg. brake handle boot and mounting flanges get screwed directly to 
the floor pan, then the carpet fitted over them? Same for the flange on 
the trans tunnel - under the carpet directly to the side of the tunnel? 
Looks as though the flanges use something like a #6 sheet metal screw? 
What about the trans tunnel fastening - bolts or sheet metal screws?
Does the speedo cable routing present a problem (o/d box)??
Thanks for any help with this one - thought the trim and carpets would 
be a breeze; guess what....
Thanks,
Angelo Graham

From aljlthomson at charter.net  Wed May 29 18:31:41 2013
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex&Janet Thomson)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 20:31:41 -0400
Subject: [TR] Alternator mounting
In-Reply-To: <1647861367.607975.1369870266900.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1647861367.607975.1369870266900.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <006601ce5ccd$0e318320$2a948960$@charter.net>

It would make more sense if the pictures came through.
Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of fogbro1 at comcast.net
Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2013 7:31 PM
To: triumph list
Subject: [TR] Alternator mounting

List, 



I don't believe I understand the problem. Here's the message I received
regarding the alternator mounting. Can anyone shed any light on it? Can't
the alternator just be rotated 180 degrees to fit the late cars? What am I
missing here? 



"Think I found the problem. Look at the pix below. My adjustment bracket is
under the alternator where all the pictures show the bracket on top.
Assuming mtg is same for all TR6 models at least the holes in the motor for
the lower bracket think I can order a bracket from a 74 as shown in these
pix and install it so the alternator will bolt up? If so I need to get it
done quick since we need a working alternator for the car. Unless you have
something in your inventory. Let me know Thx" 




TIA, 



Ed Woods 

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From dlhogye at comcast.net  Wed May 29 19:41:30 2013
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 01:41:30 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Sway bar
In-Reply-To: <1813156782.2396651.1369866540266.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <173125342.2403114.1369878090133.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

The problem with putting a TR4-TR6 bar on a TR3 is the tires could rub on the bar. TR3 bars have 2 bends each side or one close to the frame. Also, some TR3 bars with one bend, attach to the middle of the lower A-arm. The 2 bend bars reach further out on the A-arm for better leverage and effect. 


Dave 

----- Original Message -----
From: "davehogye" <dlhogye at comcast.net> 
To: wbeech at flash.net 
Cc: "list Triumph" <triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2013 3:29:00 PM 
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Sway bar 

Definitely add a front anti-sway bar only. 5/8" minimum. I have a 7/8" on my TR3 and it works great. The springs and shocks will affect the ride comfort, not the bar. I think Addco can supply a bar if you don't find one through the main British suppliers. I think TR3 bars are harder to come by than the TR4. TR4 will work but it's wider to fit the wider TR4 frame. If you can find one for the TR3 specifically, that would be the one to get. Addco will make one for you to your specs for a very reasonable price. There are a couple companies from the UK that might make one to fit just the TR3, but the price with shipping can be an issue. 


Dave H. 

----- Original Message ----- 
From: wbeech at flash.net 
To: "list Triumph" <triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2013 1:01:24 PM 
Subject: [TR] TR3 Sway bar 

As I now have the TR3B to the "Chassis Complete" stage and am waiting on the 
body shop I am thinking of other things I can do. I have determined that an 
anti-sway bar might be a good upgrade at reasonable cost, but I have never 
shopped for nor installed one before. 

What is the List consensus on sway bars? Front vs Rear, should I do both? 
Who are the Good/Better/Best equipment providers? I don't go racing but am 
a fairly spirited country roads driver. 

Many thanks, 
Bill 

Bill Beecher 
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby" 
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab) 
<http://www.triumphowners.com/1566> www.triumphowners.com/1566 
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" 
"Keep Calm and Carry On 

** triumphs at autox.team.net ** 

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 
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From wbeech at flash.net  Wed May 29 19:48:10 2013
From: wbeech at flash.net (WBEECH)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 20:48:10 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 emerg. brake boot
In-Reply-To: <51A6947B.4050501@execulink.com>
References: <51A6947B.4050501@execulink.com>
Message-ID: <CCDED830-4E23-401B-B7AE-FDC61E0F2553@flash.net>

Speaking from 3A experience, yes the flanges screw directly into the floor pan
and trans tunnel (no OD experience to share).

Carpet was much more fun than I thought.  Best advice is to pre-fit everything
(twice) before you glue anything.

Enjoy,
Bill

Sent from my iPhone

On May 29, 2013, at 6:51 PM, Angelo Graham <agraham at execulink.com> wrote:

> Hello List:
> Puzzling over some of the trim issues with my '2 project. Does the emerg.
brake handle boot and mounting flanges get screwed directly to the floor pan,
then the carpet fitted over them? Same for the flange on the trans tunnel -
under the carpet directly to the side of the tunnel? Looks as though the
flanges use something like a #6 sheet metal screw? What about the trans tunnel
fastening - bolts or sheet metal screws?
> Does the speedo cable routing present a problem (o/d box)??
> Thanks for any help with this one - thought the trim and carpets would be a
breeze; guess what....
> Thanks,
> Angelo Graham
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From mark at bradakis.com  Wed May 29 20:31:46 2013
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 29 May 2013 20:31:46 -0600
Subject: [TR] Alternator mounting
In-Reply-To: <006601ce5ccd$0e318320$2a948960$@charter.net>
References: <1647861367.607975.1369870266900.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<006601ce5ccd$0e318320$2a948960$@charter.net>
Message-ID: <51A6BA12.9040405@bradakis.com>

Alex&Janet Thomson wrote:
> It would make more sense if the pictures came through.
>

Yes, the email lists do not do pictures, unlike http://www.team.net/forums

mjb.

From pethier at comcast.net  Wed May 29 21:48:45 2013
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 03:48:45 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Sway bar
In-Reply-To: <F7C150DE320F4CCA820D5BA2AA73B954@bboffice>
Message-ID: <204103904.1100771.1369885725011.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Front bar on a TR4 or TR3,

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier at comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

----- Original Message -----
> From: wbeech at flash.net
> To: "list Triumph" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2013 3:01:24 PM
> Subject: [TR] TR3 Sway bar
> As I now have the TR3B to the "Chassis Complete" stage and am waiting
> on the
> body shop I am thinking of other things I can do. I have determined
> that an
> anti-sway bar might be a good upgrade at reasonable cost, but I have
> never
> shopped for nor installed one before.
> 
> What is the List consensus on sway bars? Front vs Rear, should I do
> both?
> Who are the Good/Better/Best equipment providers? I don't go racing
> but am
> a fairly spirited country roads driver.
> 
> Many thanks,
> Bill
> 
> Bill Beecher
> '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
> '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
> <http://www.triumphowners.com/1566> www.triumphowners.com/1566
> '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
> "Keep Calm and Carry On

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Thu May 30 06:11:02 2013
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 08:11:02 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 emerg. brake boot
Message-ID: <57f23.24568c8d.3ed89bd5@cs.com>

The flanges and seals are attached to the floorboard and tunnel, as 
mentioned.  The floor and tunnel holes are oversized and you will need a part 
called a J-clip.  This is a steel clip with a hole with the size and pitch that 
will engage the #6 screw and allow some float for alignment purposes.

J-clips come in many varieties so get clips specifically for #6 screws.  
You may find them locally or you can probably get them from the usual Brit Car 
supplier.

Dave

In a message dated 5/29/2013 7:18:41 PM Central Daylight Time, 
agraham at execulink.com writes: 
> Hello List:
> Puzzling over some of the trim issues with my '2 project. Does the 
> emerg. brake handle boot and mounting flanges get screwed directly to 
> the floor pan, then the carpet fitted over them? Same for the flange on 
> the trans tunnel - under the carpet directly to the side of the tunnel? 
> Looks as though the flanges use something like a #6 sheet metal screw? 
> What about the trans tunnel fastening - bolts or sheet metal screws?
> Does the speedo cable routing present a problem (o/d box)??
> Thanks for any help with this one - thought the trim and carpets would 
> be a breeze; guess what....

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Thu May 30 06:32:55 2013
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 08:32:55 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 emerg. brake boot
In-Reply-To: <51A6947B.4050501@execulink.com>
References: <51A6947B.4050501@execulink.com>
Message-ID: <009901ce5d31$d134c440$739e4cc0$@uprichard.net>

I think all your questions have been answered.  The O/D cable isn't a
problem once you realize (a) these cables are longer  than standard, and (b)
the routing includes going through the back of the hole in the passenger
floor which takes the handbrake.

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Angelo Graham
Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2013 7:51 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 emerg. brake boot

Hello List:
Puzzling over some of the trim issues with my '2 project. Does the emerg.
brake handle boot and mounting flanges get screwed directly to the floor
pan, then the carpet fitted over them? Same for the flange on the trans
tunnel - under the carpet directly to the side of the tunnel? 
Looks as though the flanges use something like a #6 sheet metal screw? 
What about the trans tunnel fastening - bolts or sheet metal screws?
Does the speedo cable routing present a problem (o/d box)??
Thanks for any help with this one - thought the trim and carpets would be a
breeze; guess what....
Thanks,
Angelo Graham

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From emorat1 at hotmail.com  Thu May 30 06:51:58 2013
From: emorat1 at hotmail.com (ED Morat)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 08:51:58 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR-6 overhaul/repair shop
Message-ID: <SNT140-W651C09FA6112AA07F0A3FFE910@phx.gbl>

All,



I live in sunny South Florida (Miami) and I'm having a problem finding a local
repair/overhaul shop.  My 73 TR-6 needs complete hydraulic re-build, plus fuel
lines and tank cleaning and many small items to make the car road worthy.
It's been sittin in my garage under cover for several years and I promised my
Wife I would get it back on the road.  Any help from the group would be
appreciated.



Regards,



Ed Morat

1973 TR-6

From eoot at citlink.net  Thu May 30 08:08:36 2013
From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 10:08:36 -0400
Subject: [TR] Monza exhaust on a TR3
Message-ID: <004f01ce5d3f$2dc12ac0$89438040$@citlink.net>

Would appreciate any input on this exhaust system.  Although it is a
subjective question, is the system annoyingly loud,  a little loud, or OK?
If riding several hours at 3K rpm do your ears buzz at the end of the day?
How about ease of installation?

 

Thanks

Ed

From alansalvy at gmail.com  Thu May 30 08:59:23 2013
From: alansalvy at gmail.com (alan salvatore)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 10:59:23 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR-6 overhaul/repair shop
In-Reply-To: <SNT140-W651C09FA6112AA07F0A3FFE910@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT140-W651C09FA6112AA07F0A3FFE910@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <CAAAEehSGwKQmMpEc-H3vQ8XxrT8dGT2+WW7KqBdL51JNvZ+iUQ@mail.gmail.com>

I'd recommend Dean Houston's British Sports Car Works.

British Sports Car Works
1023 S. E. Holbrook Court
Port St. Lucie, Florida 34952 USA

Phone: 772-398-7007

Al


On Thu, May 30, 2013 at 8:51 AM, ED Morat <emorat1 at hotmail.com> wrote:

> All,
>
>
>
> I live in sunny South Florida (Miami) and I'm having a problem finding a
> local
> repair/overhaul shop.  My 73 TR-6 needs complete hydraulic re-build, plus
> fuel
> lines and tank cleaning and many small items to make the car road worthy.
> It's been sittin in my garage under cover for several years and I promised
> my
> Wife I would get it back on the road.  Any help from the group would be
> appreciated.
>
>
>
> Regards,
>
>
>
> Ed Morat
>
> 1973 TR-6
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/alansalvy at gmail.com

From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Thu May 30 10:16:13 2013
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 12:16:13 -0400
Subject: [TR] Ideas for mounting fire extinguisher?
Message-ID: <CAPK7CFDmKXM0eZOG2MxmUUKzPiOvMNDX_O35qpVPGisEE8Y8QQ@mail.gmail.com>

The fire extinguisher in my TR3B (and the ones in my Tacoma and my RX350,
too, for that matter) are stored on the floor.  Not a great solution,
although they does move around enough for the powder not to get packed
(smile).

I'm imagining a bracket that would hold the extinguisher bottle across the
front of the passenger's seat squab, possibly mounted to the machine screws
holding the seat rails in place.  Something like this one:
http://i918.photobucket.com/albums/ad21/duffinator1/Duffy%20Boss/IMG_0553.jpg,
as discussed here: http://bossmustangsonline.com/index.php?topic=1364.0

Probably a number of y'all doing this now.  Any images to share about how
the bracket was fabricated?

Thx,

Don

From mhooper at indiefilmnet.com  Thu May 30 10:42:00 2013
From: mhooper at indiefilmnet.com (Mark Hooper)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 12:42:00 -0400
Subject: [TR] A Triumph, but not the LBC type
In-Reply-To: <004f01ce5d3f$2dc12ac0$89438040$@citlink.net>
Message-ID: <a866b7a9.1ce5d54.a36b060.26e9@indiefilmnet.com>

Another fine Victor Meldrew moment yesterday.

I've been re-fitting a 1970s motorboat I haven't used in years. It's got a
Ford 351 V-8 attached by a most unlikely set of mechanical and electrical
linkages to a nice soft aluminium propeller. Not the most felicitous
arrangement, although it is quite common. With the angular momentum of that
big crankshaft behind it, I can break the prop on rocks, sand, ropes, edges of
docks, underwater weeds, passing fish, in fact just about anything the boat
comes near. It's most efficient, and at $200 a prop for repairs, quite
expensive to operate. I'm going to have to investigate a harder prop, or a
softer lakebed. But I digress...

Anyway, the motor hasn't turned in about 5 years, so I conceived a cunning
plan to spray a little WD-40 in each cylinder, just to be sure that the rings
wouldn't scrape too much when I turned the crankshaft to align things. I
unscrewed all 8 spark plugs and took my spray can with its attached little
tube and applied it to the closest cylinder. Unfortunately, instead of the
expected "pssshhh" sound of spraying, I heard a sort of "Pffpppt!" as the
little tube popped off the can and vanished into the dark depths of the
cylinder. The cylinder that happened to have a piston at bottom, leaving
plenty of room for a 5" tube to disappear completely.

Also leaving me with little to cry/shout/scream but Victor Meldrew's famous "I
don't believe it!", followed by other words and phrases designed to
communicate more fully the depths of my feelings about not believing it.

I gave serious thought to leaving the tube in there to hopefully burn off, but
visions of valves gummed shut with burning plastic brought me to my senses. A
bit of careful crankshaft rotation brought the offending article into partial
view and gave hope. Finally, after practically braiding my fingers together
holding an LED flashlight, garbage bag tie and needle nose pliers while
delicately rotating the engine with a socket and foot setup, I succeeded in
extracting the thing. Great relief. If I hadn't already had the exhaust
manifolds off and the engine on the shop floor instead of mounted in the
bottom of the boat, I should never have succeeded without enormous effort.

So, the moral of the story is; don't put anything near an open spark plug hole
that is narrower than the hole and conceivably shorter than its associated
cylinder is deep. There is a mysterious attractive force that you will learn
of to your dismay.

Mark Hooper
1972 TR6

From mmarr at notwires.com  Thu May 30 11:23:34 2013
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 12:23:34 -0500
Subject: [TR] Ideas for mounting fire extinguisher?
In-Reply-To: <CAPK7CFDmKXM0eZOG2MxmUUKzPiOvMNDX_O35qpVPGisEE8Y8QQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPK7CFDmKXM0eZOG2MxmUUKzPiOvMNDX_O35qpVPGisEE8Y8QQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <02db01ce5d5a$6a2f2f00$3e8d8d00$@com>

> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-
> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Don Hiscock
> Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2013 11:16 AM
> To: Triumphs
> Subject: [TR] Ideas for mounting fire extinguisher?
> 
Mine is mounted in the trunk on the rear slope of the inner wheel well.
Fits quite nicely, is readily available, and is out of the way.
[Michael Marr] 
Mike

From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Thu May 30 11:34:41 2013
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 13:34:41 -0400
Subject: [TR] Ideas for mounting fire extinguisher?
In-Reply-To: <02db01ce5d5a$6a2f2f00$3e8d8d00$@com>
References: <CAPK7CFDmKXM0eZOG2MxmUUKzPiOvMNDX_O35qpVPGisEE8Y8QQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<02db01ce5d5a$6a2f2f00$3e8d8d00$@com>
Message-ID: <CAPK7CFDeSAWaJr5W9RRn9CCuZHx9Pe4SgRCGPiyH1=PqOTP-7Q@mail.gmail.com>

An important part of my thinking is that when one wants a fire
extinguisher, one wants it NOW.

The one in my Tacoma got used a couple of weeks ago when my neighbors put
some ashes from their patio fire pit into the garden alongside their house.
The ashes were hot enough to ignite the mulch and leaf litter and only a
few moments went by before I heard them scream and the flames were higher
than the roofline of the single-story garage.  Grabbed my little 2.5 lb dry
powder extinguisher and at a dead run headed over.  The little thing was
enough to knock the flames down enough where I could kick and stomp the
remaining fire down until the fire department arrived and soaked
everything.

It's a reminder that sooner is better than later getting after a fire.  My
goal is to have an extinguisher within reach of me in the driver's seat.

On Thu, May 30, 2013 at 1:23 PM, Michael Marr <mmarr at notwires.com> wrote:

>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-
> > bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Don Hiscock
> > Sent: Thursday, May 30, 2013 11:16 AM
> > To: Triumphs
> > Subject: [TR] Ideas for mounting fire extinguisher?
> >
> Mine is mounted in the trunk on the rear slope of the inner wheel well.
> Fits quite nicely, is readily available, and is out of the way.
> [Michael Marr]
> Mike

From jdabars at att.net  Thu May 30 13:18:31 2013
From: jdabars at att.net (Janis Dabars)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 12:18:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Fire extinguisher in the trunk.
Message-ID: <1369941511.48111.YahooMailClassic@web185004.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Yes, it is so convenient to mount the extinguisher in the trunk
BUT DO NOT DO IT.  It should be in the cabin in easy reach.
When needed or your Triumph is in flames, God forbid, you
want to grab and use it, not run around and fiddle with the trunk lid(which
may be locked) or you been rearended and
trunk area is in flames.  An extinguisher should be required
in any Triumph, also in the ones being judged in concours or what ever. 
Please install one NOW.

From mmarr at notwires.com  Thu May 30 13:46:11 2013
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 14:46:11 -0500
Subject: [TR] Fire extinguisher in the trunk.
In-Reply-To: <1369941511.48111.YahooMailClassic@web185004.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <1369941511.48111.YahooMailClassic@web185004.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <02fa01ce5d6e$56463330$02d29990$@com>

> Subject: [TR] Fire extinguisher in the trunk.
> 
> Yes, it is so convenient to mount the extinguisher in the trunk BUT DO
> NOT DO IT.  It should be in the cabin in easy reach.
> When needed or your Triumph is in flames, God forbid, you want to grab
> and use it, not run around and fiddle with the trunk lid(which may be
> locked) or you been rearended and trunk area is in flames.  An
> extinguisher should be required in any Triumph, also in the ones being
> judged in concours or what ever.
> Please install one NOW.
> 
[Michael Marr] Thanks all the same, but I will leave it in my unlocked
trunk, for the same reason that I don't have a roll cage and I don't have
seatbelts.  If, perchance, the car randomly bursts into flames one day and I
am not able to put out the fire, I will say "Yep, shoulda put the fire
extinguisher in the cockpit" and then walk to the pub for a quiet pint while
I contemplate what to do with the insurance money.

Mike

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Thu May 30 14:50:37 2013
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 16:50:37 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tr3 Brake servo installation
Message-ID: <CANhzkeN=YW1xTVQv2GcGeWOf4mJfw6cVa_3YORoFctJCWtm91g@mail.gmail.com>

Does anyone have any pictures of TR 3 brake servo installations I saw one
picture in how to restore or tr2 to tr 3s.  It look like it was on the
inside of the drivers fender well.

Thanks Chris

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Thu May 30 14:54:08 2013
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Thu, 30 May 2013 16:54:08 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tr3 Brake servo installation
In-Reply-To: <CANhzkeN=YW1xTVQv2GcGeWOf4mJfw6cVa_3YORoFctJCWtm91g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANhzkeN=YW1xTVQv2GcGeWOf4mJfw6cVa_3YORoFctJCWtm91g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANhzkeNdX9vRQTUVWu=JU9zDLH7TcTw-75zdM90DvNCzi-aXUA@mail.gmail.com>

Sorry I should clarify remote brake servo

From dave at ranteer.com  Fri May 31 10:51:45 2013
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 11:51:45 -0500
Subject: [TR] ultimate dpo continued
Message-ID: <2BAEEDF3F34948469C7193D307E89BDF@Datsun>

this is one of the best!

front brakes would grab, but not release.  tried new hoses, but that didnbt
help.  thought they looked odd.

finally figured out b the hoses were connected where the bleed valve should
be, and visa versa.

From bill_beecher at flash.net  Fri May 31 11:44:08 2013
From: bill_beecher at flash.net (Bill_Beecher)
Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 12:44:08 -0500
Subject: [TR] Tr sighting
Message-ID: <BE0552A8-671C-4D69-8AE4-B9C6364D5518@flash.net>

Sitting here watching "its a mad mad mad mad world"... again. So many great
cars, and comedians, including a grey TR3 in the final chase scene.

I read somewhere that Parnelli Jones and AJ Foyt did the stunt driving in the
cabs.  And no CGI!

Bill

From wbeech at flash.net  Fri May 31 11:46:11 2013
From: wbeech at flash.net (WBEECH)
Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 12:46:11 -0500
Subject: [TR] ultimate dpo continued
In-Reply-To: <2BAEEDF3F34948469C7193D307E89BDF@Datsun>
References: <2BAEEDF3F34948469C7193D307E89BDF@Datsun>
Message-ID: <81848914-6922-476A-96D5-28C91FEC62B2@flash.net>

Good catch, drive safely.

Sent from my iPhone

On May 31, 2013, at 11:51 AM, "Dave" <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:

> this is one of the best!
>
> front brakes would grab, but not release.  tried new hoses, but that
didnbt
> help.  thought they looked odd.
>
> finally figured out b the hoses were connected where the bleed valve
should
> be, and visa versa.
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From dave at ranteer.com  Fri May 31 14:29:46 2013
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave at ranteer.com)
Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 13:29:46 -0700
Subject: [TR] Tr3 temp gage
Message-ID: <20130531132946.eacca00412c4e976446146f9b5e47255.c6a8a1310e.mailapi@mailapi06.secureserver.net>

Late tr3.  Have not had the car long.  Finally running and driving today.
Looks like all the gages except tach and temp are finally working.   Tach
screams; its probably bad.  Temp gage is lifeless.   Other than confirming its
lack of response by puting the sensor in hot water, is there anything else I
can do?  I guess I have to send the gage and tube out?  Any other options?

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Fri May 31 14:36:51 2013
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 13:36:51 -0700
Subject: [TR] Tr3 temp gage
In-Reply-To: <CANzE1bERsoZ5d5gfN5JX7+vDzTRuW+yubz5A_-crCuPZ39-mhg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20130531132946.eacca00412c4e976446146f9b5e47255.c6a8a1310e.mailapi@mailapi06.secureserver.net>
	<CANzE1bERsoZ5d5gfN5JX7+vDzTRuW+yubz5A_-crCuPZ39-mhg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bGnPP7RHniik5=5rBhTnMwKX=5xrrwg_jGtJDB8nZNd1g@mail.gmail.com>

Here is a site with some useful info:


Smiths/Jaeger Speedometer Repair
Manual<http://home.comcast.net/~rhodes/PDF/speedo.pdf>



The tach is much the same inside as the speedo only simpler (no odo's) and
easier to repair.  At the very least you can decide if you want tackle it
yourself.



The temp gauge also has DIY instructions on the web but that is a bit
trickier -- bordering on a lab experiment from second semester chemistry.



I have fixed speedos & tachs -- haven't (yet) had to delve into the temp
gauge fix.



Geo


On Fri, May 31, 2013 at 1:29 PM, <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:

> Late tr3.  Have not had the car long.  Finally running and driving today.
> Looks like all the gages except tach and temp are finally working.   Tach
> screams; its probably bad.  Temp gage is lifeless.   Other than confirming
> its
> lack of response by puting the sensor in hot water, is there anything else
> I
> can do?  I guess I have to send the gage and tube out?  Any other options?
>
Reply
Forward
Click here to Reply or Forward


On Fri, May 31, 2013 at 1:36 PM, Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com> wrote:

> Here is a site with some useful info:
>
>
> Smiths/Jaeger Speedometer Repair Manual<http://home.comcast.net/~rhodes/PDF/speedo.pdf>
>
>
>
> The tach is much the same inside as the speedo only simpler (no odo's) and
> easier to repair.  At the very least you can decide if you want tackle it
> yourself.
>
>
>
> The temp gauge also has DIY instructions on the web but that is a bit
> trickier -- bordering on a lab experiment from second semester chemistry.
>
>
>
> I have fixed speedos & tachs -- haven't (yet) had to delve into the temp
> gauge fix.
>
>
>
> Geo
>
>
> On Fri, May 31, 2013 at 1:29 PM, <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:
>
>> Late tr3.  Have not had the car long.  Finally running and driving today.
>> Looks like all the gages except tach and temp are finally working.   Tach
>> screams; its probably bad.  Temp gage is lifeless.   Other than
>> confirming its
>> lack of response by puting the sensor in hot water, is there anything
>> else I
>> can do?  I guess I have to send the gage and tube out?  Any other options?
>>
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com

From asg123 at centurylink.net  Fri May 31 15:07:32 2013
From: asg123 at centurylink.net (ARNOLD )
Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 17:07:32 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Fire extinguisher location
Message-ID: <691172759.21837078.1370034452151.JavaMail.root@centurylink.net>

I had a fire in my 1965 TR4A 18 years ago. Grabbed the extinguisher from behind passenger 
seat popped the hood and put it out. Reconnected the gasoline line at the strombergs and finished driving home. 
Still without collision or comprehensive insurance. Arnold, of course all the standard disclaimers apply. 

-- 

. 
Excess on occasion is exhilarating. It prevents moderation from acquiring the deadening effect of a habit. 

W. Somerset Maugham (1874-1965) 

From trguy75 at gmail.com  Fri May 31 15:34:17 2013
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 17:34:17 -0400
Subject: [TR] Engine Install
Message-ID: <003501ce5e46$9bea5370$d3befa50$@gmail.com>

The TR4 factory repair manual states to attach the engine and tranny
together outside of the car and then install into the car as a single unit.
I have always seen it done engine first, block the rear of the motor to
battery tray and jack underneath and then attach tranny from inside the car.
What do you all recommend is the best way to go when all is out of the car.
The car is stripped and beginning the process of putting everything back
together.  I have an engine hoist balance so I can adjust to create proper
45 degree angle.  Just curious and thanks for everyone's patience as my
questions mount while the car goes back together.

Jim Henningsen

62 TR4

75 TR6

Ocala, FL  

From wbeech at flash.net  Fri May 31 15:44:29 2013
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 16:44:29 -0500
Subject: [TR] Engine Install
In-Reply-To: <003501ce5e46$9bea5370$d3befa50$@gmail.com>
References: <003501ce5e46$9bea5370$d3befa50$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6D8E0A65B07C4599A1DAFEB2E9441539@bboffice>

<...The TR4 factory repair manual states to attach the engine and tranny
together outside of the car and then install into the car as a single
unit....>

Jim,

While I have never installed an engine w/o the tranny I have pulled and
installed the tranny a couple of times from inside the car and I have pulled
and installed the engine/tranny combo a couple of times as well.  Much
easier to get the engine/tranny together and buttoned up  before you install
it.  Sounds like you have the right tools for the job, I would also
recommend that you get the car up on blocks/stands to give you maximum
clearance under the car as the tranny comes down at angle and the engine
needs room in front for it to come to level.

Hope this helps,
Bill

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of James Henningsen
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2013 4:34 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Engine Install

The TR4 factory repair manual states to attach the engine and tranny
together outside of the car and then install into the car as a single unit.
I have always seen it done engine first, block the rear of the motor to
battery tray and jack underneath and then attach tranny from inside the car.
What do you all recommend is the best way to go when all is out of the car.
The car is stripped and beginning the process of putting everything back
together.  I have an engine hoist balance so I can adjust to create proper
45 degree angle.  Just curious and thanks for everyone's patience as my
questions mount while the car goes back together.

Jim Henningsen

62 TR4

75 TR6

Ocala, FL  

From mark at bradakis.com  Fri May 31 15:51:08 2013
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 15:51:08 -0600
Subject: [TR] Engine Install
In-Reply-To: <003501ce5e46$9bea5370$d3befa50$@gmail.com>
References: <003501ce5e46$9bea5370$d3befa50$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <51A91B4C.9010503@bradakis.com>

I prefer installing them as a unit.

mjb.

From spook01 at comcast.net  Fri May 31 15:57:39 2013
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 16:57:39 -0500
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Fire_extinguisher_location?=
Message-ID: <mailman.32.1370037718.1861.triumphs@autox.team.net>

I usually mount mine next to the hot exhaust manifold.  That way, it explodes early, alleviating any need, desire, or ability to put out any fire anytime for any reason.
I drive completely uninsured, naked, without seatbelts.  I eat nothing but junkfood and smoke 25 packs of unfiltered Camels a day.
I also drive through east LA hurling racial epithets at random gang members.
With my gas gauge on empty.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "ARNOLD " <asg123 at centurylink.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Fire extinguisher location
Date: Fri, May 31, 2013 4:07 pm


I had a fire in my 1965 TR4A 18 years ago. Grabbed the extinguisher from behind passenger 
seat popped the hood and put it out. Reconnected the gasoline line at the strombergs and finished driving home. 
Still without collision or comprehensive insurance. Arnold, of course all the standard disclaimers apply. 

-- 

.. 
Excess on occasion is exhilarating. It prevents moderation from acquiring the deadening effect of a habit. 

W. Somerset Maugham (1874-1965) 

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From greg at gelhar.com  Fri May 31 15:59:13 2013
From: greg at gelhar.com (greg at gelhar.com)
Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 17:59:13 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tr3 temp gage
In-Reply-To: <20130531132946.eacca00412c4e976446146f9b5e47255.c6a8a1310e.mailapi@mailap
	i06.secureserver.net>
References: <20130531132946.eacca00412c4e976446146f9b5e47255.c6a8a1310e.mailapi@mailapi06.secureserver.net>
Message-ID: <bad17f575de96bb7e4aafdb3d7a80319.squirrel@email.accountsupport.com>

Dave, I have seen temp gauges that went to full hot have the internal
linkage separate from the bourdon tube. You would need to remove the gauge
far enough to get the chrome ring, glass, and face of to see if this is
the problem.
If so, it can be put back in place.

Greg G.
Osseo, MN



> Late tr3.  Have not had the car long.  Finally running and driving today.
> Looks like all the gages except tach and temp are finally working.   Tach
> screams; its probably bad.  Temp gage is lifeless.   Other than confirming
> its
> lack of response by puting the sensor in hot water, is there anything else
> I
> can do?  I guess I have to send the gage and tube out?  Any other options?

From spook01 at comcast.net  Fri May 31 16:04:02 2013
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 17:04:02 -0500
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Engine_Install?=
Message-ID: <mailman.33.1370038098.1861.triumphs@autox.team.net>

Jim,
I've done it both ways.  It seems to take longer with the engine and tranny separated.
If you have a pristine new paint job, it seems a bit easier to juggle two bits instead of one really big one without scratching anything.
But anything is possible with a little cardboard!

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "James Henningsen" <trguy75 at gmail.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Engine Install
Date: Fri, May 31, 2013 4:34 pm


The TR4 factory repair manual states to attach the engine and tranny
together outside of the car and then install into the car as a single unit.
I have always seen it done engine first, block the rear of the motor to
battery tray and jack underneath and then attach tranny from inside the car.
What do you all recommend is the best way to go when all is out of the car.
The car is stripped and beginning the process of putting everything back
together.  I have an engine hoist balance so I can adjust to create proper
45 degree angle.  Just curious and thanks for everyone's patience as my
questions mount while the car goes back together.

Jim Henningsen

62 TR4

75 TR6

Ocala, FL  

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From aljlthomson at charter.net  Fri May 31 16:14:32 2013
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex&Janet Thomson)
Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 18:14:32 -0400
Subject: [TR] Engine Install
In-Reply-To: <003501ce5e46$9bea5370$d3befa50$@gmail.com>
References: <003501ce5e46$9bea5370$d3befa50$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000601ce5e4c$3a1a9870$ae4fc950$@charter.net>

Jim - I installed an engine/transmission combination into our TR6 using a
tractor loader as the hoist. I'm not saying I would recommend it to others,
but that's what we had at the time. Definitely a little hairy when
attempting to achieve the proper angle, etc., but it worked for us. I think
I would prefer working with the transmission mounting block rather than
guiding the input shaft to the pilot bushing, etc. Also, you have a lot more
leverage when grabbing onto the transmission tail as opposed to the rear of
the engine block. Good luck.

Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of James Henningsen
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2013 5:34 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Engine Install

The TR4 factory repair manual states to attach the engine and tranny
together outside of the car and then install into the car as a single unit.
I have always seen it done engine first, block the rear of the motor to
battery tray and jack underneath and then attach tranny from inside the car.
What do you all recommend is the best way to go when all is out of the car.
The car is stripped and beginning the process of putting everything back
together.  I have an engine hoist balance so I can adjust to create proper
45 degree angle.  Just curious and thanks for everyone's patience as my
questions mount while the car goes back together.

Jim Henningsen

62 TR4

75 TR6

Ocala, FL  

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From trguy75 at gmail.com  Fri May 31 17:54:08 2013
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 19:54:08 -0400
Subject: [TR] Engine Install
In-Reply-To: <000601ce5e4c$3a1a9870$ae4fc950$@charter.net>
References: <003501ce5e46$9bea5370$d3befa50$@gmail.com>
	<000601ce5e4c$3a1a9870$ae4fc950$@charter.net>
Message-ID: <006901ce5e5a$24dd17e0$6e9747a0$@gmail.com>

Thanks for the responses.  If installing as a combined unit did you need to
take the top cover off the tranny as the manual explains? I assume for
clearance.
Jim Henningsen
62 TR4
75 TR6
Ocala, FL

-----Original Message-----
From: Alex&Janet Thomson [mailto:aljlthomson at charter.net] 
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2013 6:15 PM
To: 'James Henningsen'; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] Engine Install

Jim - I installed an engine/transmission combination into our TR6 using a
tractor loader as the hoist. I'm not saying I would recommend it to others,
but that's what we had at the time. Definitely a little hairy when
attempting to achieve the proper angle, etc., but it worked for us. I think
I would prefer working with the transmission mounting block rather than
guiding the input shaft to the pilot bushing, etc. Also, you have a lot more
leverage when grabbing onto the transmission tail as opposed to the rear of
the engine block. Good luck.

Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of James Henningsen
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2013 5:34 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Engine Install

The TR4 factory repair manual states to attach the engine and tranny
together outside of the car and then install into the car as a single unit.
I have always seen it done engine first, block the rear of the motor to
battery tray and jack underneath and then attach tranny from inside the car.
What do you all recommend is the best way to go when all is out of the car.
The car is stripped and beginning the process of putting everything back
together.  I have an engine hoist balance so I can adjust to create proper
45 degree angle.  Just curious and thanks for everyone's patience as my
questions mount while the car goes back together.

Jim Henningsen

62 TR4

75 TR6

Ocala, FL  

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From darrellw360 at mac.com  Fri May 31 17:55:41 2013
From: darrellw360 at mac.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 16:55:41 -0700
Subject: [TR] Engine Install
In-Reply-To: <006901ce5e5a$24dd17e0$6e9747a0$@gmail.com>
References: <003501ce5e46$9bea5370$d3befa50$@gmail.com>
	<000601ce5e4c$3a1a9870$ae4fc950$@charter.net>
	<006901ce5e5a$24dd17e0$6e9747a0$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4C447DAF-8AB5-4E68-BDD4-9259141A2BFB@mac.com>

On May 31, 2013, at 4:54 PM, James Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com> wrote:

> If installing as a combined unit did you need to
> take the top cover off the tranny as the manual explains? I assume for
> clearance.

I never have, though I see how it might help.  Just get one of those devices
that lets you tilt the engine, and it isn't hard to get the tail low enough.

From wbeech at flash.net  Fri May 31 17:58:23 2013
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 18:58:23 -0500
Subject: [TR] Engine Install
In-Reply-To: <006901ce5e5a$24dd17e0$6e9747a0$@gmail.com>
References: <003501ce5e46$9bea5370$d3befa50$@gmail.com><000601ce5e4c$3a1a9870$ae4fc950$@charter.net>
	<006901ce5e5a$24dd17e0$6e9747a0$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <068BF7B24C994114A0D587339C420F94@bboffice>

I didn't on the TR3, just the shifter.  Clearance gets close when you hit
the point of straightening out the unit for final touchdown, this is why I
try to raise the car 5"-10" on blocks(please be sure they are sound).

Bill

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of James Henningsen
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2013 6:54 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Engine Install

Thanks for the responses.  If installing as a combined unit did you need to
take the top cover off the tranny as the manual explains? I assume for
clearance.
Jim Henningsen
62 TR4
75 TR6
Ocala, FL

-----Original Message-----
From: Alex&Janet Thomson [mailto:aljlthomson at charter.net]
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2013 6:15 PM
To: 'James Henningsen'; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] Engine Install

Jim - I installed an engine/transmission combination into our TR6 using a
tractor loader as the hoist. I'm not saying I would recommend it to others,
but that's what we had at the time. Definitely a little hairy when
attempting to achieve the proper angle, etc., but it worked for us. I think
I would prefer working with the transmission mounting block rather than
guiding the input shaft to the pilot bushing, etc. Also, you have a lot more
leverage when grabbing onto the transmission tail as opposed to the rear of
the engine block. Good luck.

Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of James Henningsen
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2013 5:34 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Engine Install

The TR4 factory repair manual states to attach the engine and tranny
together outside of the car and then install into the car as a single unit.
I have always seen it done engine first, block the rear of the motor to
battery tray and jack underneath and then attach tranny from inside the car.
What do you all recommend is the best way to go when all is out of the car.
The car is stripped and beginning the process of putting everything back
together.  I have an engine hoist balance so I can adjust to create proper
45 degree angle.  Just curious and thanks for everyone's patience as my
questions mount while the car goes back together.

Jim Henningsen

62 TR4

75 TR6

Ocala, FL  

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From trguy75 at gmail.com  Fri May 31 18:16:17 2013
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 20:16:17 -0400
Subject: [TR] Engine Install
In-Reply-To: <068BF7B24C994114A0D587339C420F94@bboffice>
References: <003501ce5e46$9bea5370$d3befa50$@gmail.com><000601ce5e4c$3a1a9870$ae4fc950$@charter.net>
	<006901ce5e5a$24dd17e0$6e9747a0$@gmail.com>
	<068BF7B24C994114A0D587339C420F94@bboffice>
Message-ID: <007401ce5e5d$3d4318e0$b7c94aa0$@gmail.com>

Thanks for the responses. You all are the best
Jim

-----Original Message-----
From: wbeech at flash.net [mailto:wbeech at flash.net] 
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2013 7:58 PM
To: 'James Henningsen'; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] Engine Install

I didn't on the TR3, just the shifter.  Clearance gets close when you hit
the point of straightening out the unit for final touchdown, this is why I
try to raise the car 5"-10" on blocks(please be sure they are sound).

Bill

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of James Henningsen
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2013 6:54 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Engine Install

Thanks for the responses.  If installing as a combined unit did you need to
take the top cover off the tranny as the manual explains? I assume for
clearance.
Jim Henningsen
62 TR4
75 TR6
Ocala, FL

-----Original Message-----
From: Alex&Janet Thomson [mailto:aljlthomson at charter.net]
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2013 6:15 PM
To: 'James Henningsen'; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] Engine Install

Jim - I installed an engine/transmission combination into our TR6 using a
tractor loader as the hoist. I'm not saying I would recommend it to others,
but that's what we had at the time. Definitely a little hairy when
attempting to achieve the proper angle, etc., but it worked for us. I think
I would prefer working with the transmission mounting block rather than
guiding the input shaft to the pilot bushing, etc. Also, you have a lot more
leverage when grabbing onto the transmission tail as opposed to the rear of
the engine block. Good luck.

Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of James Henningsen
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2013 5:34 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Engine Install

The TR4 factory repair manual states to attach the engine and tranny
together outside of the car and then install into the car as a single unit.
I have always seen it done engine first, block the rear of the motor to
battery tray and jack underneath and then attach tranny from inside the car.
What do you all recommend is the best way to go when all is out of the car.
The car is stripped and beginning the process of putting everything back
together.  I have an engine hoist balance so I can adjust to create proper
45 degree angle.  Just curious and thanks for everyone's patience as my
questions mount while the car goes back together.

Jim Henningsen

62 TR4

75 TR6

Ocala, FL  

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Fri May 31 18:31:59 2013
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2013 00:31:59 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Of New Zealand Overdrives and Bosch Alternators
Message-ID: <1048503243.695496.1370046719115.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

List, 



I sent the following to some local Triumph owners, but thought it might be of interest to other TR owners. The 'J' type overdrive in question was purchased on Ebay from a seller with great feedback. The alternator is frequently recommended as a "bolt in" unit for TR6's. It probably is for cars built before January 1975. 



Ed Woods 


"All, 



Some of you have heard of the trials and tribulations Bill , Bruce and I have been enduring over the past few weeks, trying to get an overdrive, purchased on Ebay from a guy in New Zealand, operable. After practially dismantling it in place a number of times and still never seeing any hydraulic pressure, we finally gave up and removed the entire transmission last week, separated the 'J' type overdrive, and sent it to my mentor, John Esposito, for diagnosis and testing. The problem turned out to be caused by the remains of a rubber 'O' ring blocking a port within the solenoid housing. It also had an incorrect non-return valve and the wrong internal speedo gear. We'd already determined that the external speedo gear and its clamping mechanism were incorrect, costing around $100 to fix. The o/d had been taken from a Triumph sedan; "2500" I think. The seller's claim was that this unit had been "rebuilt and tested" and was suitable for a TR6. Sure it was. 



So, John got it all back together and tested on Saturday and shipped it to me onTuesday. It arrived Thursday. Not bad: a one week turn around, including a holiday weekend. Bill and I stuck it back on the gearbox and reinstalled the thing today. Unfortunately, we lost the copper washer for the solenoid, so were unable to road test it. We are getting better at removing and replacing a 'J' type overdrive in a late TR6, however. Prayer and a pair of forceps help a bunch on the 4 rear mount bracket bolts. 



We also found that the Bosch alternator is not a "drop in" on TR6's built after January 1975, the ones with an air pump. Are we the first to discover this? There's no mention of it on the internet, not that we could find anyway. Ended up replacing the '76 air pump/alternator combo bracket with one from a TR250 which was still no easy task, since the bearer plate is also different on later cars. We found all this out as we went along. Biggest clue to the later alternator installation, other than the air pump, is that the adjusting link is beneath the alternator. 



So we await a new adjusting link and a copper washer, but the hard work, we hope, is done. Maybe next week we can get the car to Larry Learn for its new interior.... 





Ed" 

From wbeech at flash.net  Fri May 31 18:37:36 2013
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 19:37:36 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 Timing advance
Message-ID: <56ACA93E50E04FB4816F1B1FC807BF1B@bboffice>

Going through and cleaning/adjusting points with a new condenser, went the
the VTR site to inquire about the dwell angle and came across a post that
said "Most of us are finding that the timing is set a lot further
forward(than 4 degrees BTDC).  Like about 12 to 14 degrees". 
I have always run about 4-6 degrees BTDC, but never as much as was
suggested.  No qualifiers were given with regards to any performance mods or
electronic ignition. 
 
So, the question would be, where are you setting the idle timing on your
TR2-4?  Does this much advance make sense?  Sound dangerous to me.

Thanks,
BillBill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Keep Calm and Carry On

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Fri May 31 19:29:31 2013
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 18:29:31 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Timing advance
In-Reply-To: <56ACA93E50E04FB4816F1B1FC807BF1B@bboffice>
References: <56ACA93E50E04FB4816F1B1FC807BF1B@bboffice>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bHmHBpyza5xm73VgjeSuyon5OdpuMQuhu424YbUTtJU9w@mail.gmail.com>

On Fri, May 31, 2013 at 5:37 PM, <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:

> ..."Most of us are finding that the timing is set a lot further
> forward(than 4 degrees BTDC).  Like about 12 to 14 degrees"...
>
> So, the question would be, where are you setting the idle timing on your
> TR2-4?  Does this much advance make sense?



Not to me.   I set static by the book then adjust as needed to eliminate
pinging/knocking.  At most that is a couple of degrees.

After I'm done I put a timing light on it to see where the timing is at
high RPM when the advance is all-in... just to assure myself that this is a
reasonable number.  I do that because pinging would be hard to hear at high
RPM so best to be sure it isn't too advanced.

Of course 3s & 4s have different advance curves -- but if the 120-140 is a
static setting I would think the results would not be good.

OTOH -- if they are setting the timing at idle using a timing light that is
a very different matter as centrifugal advance comes on pretty early,
starting before typical idle speed.

http://tinyurl.com/kwkf4hk

Geo

From wbeech at flash.net  Fri May 31 21:38:55 2013
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 22:38:55 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 Timing advance
In-Reply-To: <CANzE1bHmHBpyza5xm73VgjeSuyon5OdpuMQuhu424YbUTtJU9w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <56ACA93E50E04FB4816F1B1FC807BF1B@bboffice>
	<CANzE1bHmHBpyza5xm73VgjeSuyon5OdpuMQuhu424YbUTtJU9w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DBA6553A0BFE4FDF855E821CD3B8B1EA@bboffice>

My timing is full-stop retarded at 500 RPM where I check it with the light
at 5 degrees BTDC.  I don't have any pinging issues and run mid-grade
petrol.

I have been trying all areas as I have had a hesitation that has been
driving me nuts for the past year.  Even after 30 minutes of driving, it
will want to stall off a stop sign or light.   Thinking back to some
previous posts from the list, Terriann comented with the possiblilty that
the condensor & points could be an issue.  I have periodically cleaned and
set the points but never replaced the condensor since I have had the car.
Bottom line:  Pulled the points and gave them a good cleaning with a
sharping stone and replaced the condensor.  Tarbaby is now running like a
champ off every stop, I can't believe I have overlooked the condensor for so
long.

I love this list!!

Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
 <http://www.triumphowners.com/1566> www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
Keep Calm and Carry On


  _____

From: Geo Hahn [mailto:ahwahneetr at gmail.com]
Sent: Friday, May 31, 2013 8:30 PM
To: Wbeech at flash.net
Cc: Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Timing advance


On Fri, May 31, 2013 at 5:37 PM, <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:


..."Most of us are finding that the timing is set a lot further
forward(than 4 degrees BTDC).  Like about 12 to 14 degrees"...

So, the question would be, where are you setting the idle timing on your
TR2-4?  Does this much advance make sense?



Not to me.   I set static by the book then adjust as needed to eliminate
pinging/knocking.  At most that is a couple of degrees.

After I'm done I put a timing light on it to see where the timing is at high
RPM when the advance is all-in... just to assure myself that this is a
reasonable number.  I do that because pinging would be hard to hear at high
RPM so best to be sure it isn't too advanced.

Of course 3s & 4s have different advance curves -- but if the 120-140 is a
static setting I would think the results would not be good.

OTOH -- if they are setting the timing at idle using a timing light that is
a very different matter as centrifugal advance comes on pretty early,
starting before typical idle speed.

http://tinyurl.com/kwkf4hk

Geo

From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com  Fri May 31 22:41:12 2013
From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly)
Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 21:41:12 -0700
Subject: [TR] Bad Engine Oil Leak
Message-ID: <003501ce5e82$3e95fee0$bbc1fca0$@rr.com>

Here's a follow up to my findings. If you recall I had a bad oil leak on my
TR4A because of internal pressure.

What I found is that all PVC valves are not equal. I got a generic one from
O'Reily's. You know the one that "rattles"? Suck from the vacuum side and it
flows. Blow from the input side it doesn't.

The factory one is sporadic at best. It opens quickly and closes even
quicker. I have two of them and they both act the same. 

So I installed the generic and have driven it to work the last couple of
days. 15 miles each way. Not one drop of oil has leaked. Not one. I'm in
shock.

While I haven't played with it yet I believe that the factory version has
too strong a spring not allowing the vacuum to open the valve as needed to
relieve the pressure. Not sure if this is a lot issue or by design.

Anyway, I'm a happy camper with a LBC that doesn't leave it's mark.

Johnnie

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Fri May 31 23:35:04 2013
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Fri, 31 May 2013 22:35:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Tr3 temp gage
Message-ID: <1370064904.48399.YahooMailNeo@web180902.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Hi Dave,
     I just went through this myself. I was getting ready to send my
temp gauge in to West Valley Instruments. It was $150 to rebuild the gauge or
$200 if it needed a complete new bordon tube. I have already had the gauge
rebuilt twice before during the last 15 years. I found that the early TR4
gauge looked identical to the TR3 gauge, but used an electric gauge so I
bought one of them for $150 and spent about another $30 on parts to install
it. It was a risk buying a used gauge, but it all worked out. With no bordon
tube it should last much longer, hopefully several more decades.
     Wayne
Bier at Triumphs Only (I know, I know - lots of bad reviews from the list)
charges something like $150 for the used/no guarantee early TR4 gauge + your
TR3 gauge in exchange. No exchange gauge? Then no deal. He will also sell you
a rebuilt gauge for something like $250 + your old gauge in exchange.
     The
TR4 gauge requires a voltage stabilizer and sending unit. Moss has both. TR4
wiring diagrams are on the web.
     I kept my old TR3 gauge as a spare.
   
 There is also a guy selling "clone" TR3 temp gauges on Ebay for like $75.
They look almost identical except where it is supposed to say "Jaeger" it say
"British Made". These look okay to me as well.
     I like my TR4 route.

   
 Bill in Tehachapi

From: dave at ranteer.com
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Tr3 temp gage
Message-ID:
   
<20130531132946.eacca00412c4e976446146f9b5e47255.c6a8a1310e.mailapi at mailapi06
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Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

Late tr3. 
Have not had the car long.  Finally running and driving today.
Looks like all
the gages except tach and temp are finally working.  Tach
screams; its
probably bad.  Temp gage is lifeless.  Other than confirming its
lack of
response by puting the sensor in hot water, is there anything else I
can do? 
I guess I have to send the gage and tube out?  Any other options?