From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Fri Mar  1 16:06:07 2013
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2013 15:06:07 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Waking a Sleeping Car
Message-ID: <1362179167.29590.YahooMailNeo@web180906.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

     I woke up a TR3 that had been sitting in a field for 11 years. Raccoons
had had kittens in the passengers footwell (the hardtop was still on). Before
it arrived at the "ran when parked" spot, it had been side swiped on the 405
freeway in LA, ran off the road and rolled onto its side in the fireweed stuff
that grows on the side of the SoCal freeways.
     After I got the car home
and knowing nothing about Triumphs, I rebuilt the fuel pump, replaced the
plugs and wires, squirted oil in the cylinders,  changed the oil, fixed a
radiator leak, poured in some gas, got out a spare battery, hotwired it and it
fired up pretty quickly. It backfired a rats next out the exhaust which took
out the expansion chamber on the muffler. I took the car for a low speed test
drive. The tach and oil pressure gauges still worked. About 2 miles from my
house the car stopped when the rust in the gas tank plugged the lines. I
should have known better than to try that.
     I drove the car with that
engine, trans and brakes for almost 10 years before doing any serious
rebuilding. Tough little cars these are.

     21 years later the car still
runs great and is the best car that I have ever had.

    
http://www.flickr.com/photos/39699927 at N08/8518944877/in/photostream

    
-Bill in Tehachapi

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Fri Mar  1 16:50:54 2013
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Fri, 1 Mar 2013 15:50:54 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Waking a Sleeping CarP
In-Reply-To: <1362179167.29590.YahooMailNeo@web180906.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1362179167.29590.YahooMailNeo@web180906.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1362181854.50275.YahooMailNeo@web120002.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

she generally elbows me in the ribs.
but this morning it was just a sucker
punch.
at least she brought some tea.
i poured it down my throat to lube the
smoker cough.
but it didn't help with the backfiring.
a wash and wax and i was
ready for work.
made sure i topped up with one more quart of tea for the ride.
ran ok most of the day but at this age its always sluggish!
 
Frank

From mtgaines at presby.edu  Sat Mar  2 08:00:30 2013
From: mtgaines at presby.edu (Tim Gaines)
Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2013 10:00:30 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] Waking a sleeping car
In-Reply-To: <17274660.31.1362236359239.JavaMail.User@User-PC>
Message-ID: <22280480.33.1362236425513.JavaMail.User@User-PC>

After finishing the HVDA tranny conversion on my TR6 (loving it so far!) I now have to get back to the Spitfire differential rebuild I started 3 years ago, before retirement.  I may not pull that off by myself, but at some point I have to revive the poor engine that I have neglected most of that time (the guilt is terrible).  My question is, what do I do with the 7 or 8 gallons of gas in the tank?

Tim Gaines
Clinton, SC
1974 TR6
1980 Spitfire  


----- Original Message -----
From: terryrs at comcast.net
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2013 6:18:56 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Waking a sleeping car

<snip>

One, of course, is never run the old gas.  Even if it starts, it will varnish everything in sight to some degree.  While you're at it, stick a magnet in the gas tank to see if it collects a pod of rust.

From wbeech at flash.net  Sat Mar  2 08:34:15 2013
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2013 09:34:15 -0600
Subject: [TR] Waking a sleeping car
In-Reply-To: <22280480.33.1362236425513.JavaMail.User@User-PC>
Message-ID: <785439.5397.bm@smtp110.sbc.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

I had a similar problem when I took posession of a long-dormant TR3 last
year, BTW, new gas and it fired right up.  Didn't want to dump it and the
local recycle only take oil.

I mixed it some of the old fuel 50/50 in the lawnmower.  After determining
that would would work in a lawnmower, I poured the balance into a half-full
tank in the '68 Land Rover, low compression/low performance engine.  The LR
sure stunk for a couple of weeks and performance suffered about 15% but I
was able to use it up.

Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Even if you are on the right track, you'll get run over if you just sit
there"  Will Rodgers



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tim Gaines
Sent: Saturday, March 02, 2013 9:01 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Waking a sleeping car

After finishing the HVDA tranny conversion on my TR6 (loving it so far!) I
now have to get back to the Spitfire differential rebuild I started 3 years
ago, before retirement.  I may not pull that off by myself, but at some
point I have to revive the poor engine that I have neglected most of that
time (the guilt is terrible).  My question is, what do I do with the 7 or 8
gallons of gas in the tank?

Tim Gaines
Clinton, SC
1974 TR6
1980 Spitfire  


----- Original Message -----
From: terryrs at comcast.net
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2013 6:18:56 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Waking a sleeping car

<snip>

One, of course, is never run the old gas.  Even if it starts, it will
varnish everything in sight to some degree.  While you're at it, stick a
magnet in the gas tank to see if it collects a pod of rust.

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sat Mar  2 13:12:03 2013
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 2 Mar 2013 15:12:03 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] Waking a sleeping car
Message-ID: <2f0d5.f04dc2d.3e63b713@cs.com>

I had about 7 or 8 gallons of old, rusty gas in a TR7 I parted out.  I 
filtered the gas through coffee filter material and added it to the tank of my 
TR6 about half a gallon at a time just after a fillup.  I was loath to put it 
in my Oldsmobile for fear of clogging the injectors.  In the TR6 the worst 
that could happen is I would have to rebuild my carbs (which are due anyway 
since I haven't rebuilt them since 1996).  At any rate the TR6 was quite 
happy with it and it was put to good use.

I wound up with about a gallon of the nastiest, rust laden gas in the end 
and donated it to a friend for lighting his annual Halloween bon fire.

Dave

In a message dated 3/2/2013 9:25:06 AM Central Standard Time, 
mtgaines at presby.edu writes: 
> My question is, what do I do with the 7 or 8 gallons of gas in the tank?

From moira.secrest at verizon.net  Sun Mar  3 08:44:23 2013
From: moira.secrest at verizon.net (M. Secrest)
Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2013 10:44:23 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 Throwout Bearing
In-Reply-To: <mailman.19.1362250804.16577.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.19.1362250804.16577.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <5221DDD2-F05D-4DFC-B2D9-E9D5340F1440@verizon.net>

I found a nice deal on a LUK "Rep Set" clutch kit on eBay and got it for my 72
TR6.  Seems like a good kit.

Included is a throwout bearing, and I'm wondering if its good enough to put in
the car. It has this marking: RHP UK 14/W 2 1/16.

Do we have any knowledge of or good things to say about this bearing?  Thanks.

Martin Secrest
Arlington, VA
72 TR 6

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Sun Mar  3 09:18:52 2013
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh)
Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2013 08:18:52 -0800
Subject: [TR] A little off topic
Message-ID: <F5EA6A60-87A6-48AC-A979-89CADB6F85F6@comcast.net>

But b& During Triumphest/VTR at San Luis Obispo b& Someone came up a drink
called "Coventry", naturally it contained Gin, but what were the rest of the
ingredients that made it very drinkable ??

Thanks b& even the best Gin tastes awful alone ...

"Life is too short to drive boring cars"

Bill Pugh
1957 TR3 "Casper"p;
TS16765L
Wallace, CA
anabil007 at comcast.netp

From spitlist at cox.net  Sun Mar  3 09:54:41 2013
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2013 09:54:41 -0700
Subject: [TR] A little off topic
In-Reply-To: <F5EA6A60-87A6-48AC-A979-89CADB6F85F6@comcast.net>
References: <F5EA6A60-87A6-48AC-A979-89CADB6F85F6@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <9F05DB2F68234D2F94959F6FE3FC05EE@Vista>

Bill, we were all too drunk to remember!  :)

Joe


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Pugh
Sent: Sunday, March 03, 2013 9:19 AM
To: TR3/6
Subject: [TR] A little off topic

But b& During Triumphest/VTR at San Luis Obispo b& Someone came up a drink
called "Coventry", naturally it contained Gin, but what were the rest of the
ingredients that made it very drinkable ??

Thanks b& even the best Gin tastes awful alone ...

"Life is too short to drive boring cars"

Bill Pugh
1957 TR3 "Casper"p;
TS16765L
Wallace, CA
anabil007 at comcast.netp

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From suhringtr36 at comcast.net  Sun Mar  3 10:17:28 2013
From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (suhringtr36 at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2013 17:17:28 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR6 Door Lock removal
In-Reply-To: <560874002.76070.1362330944830.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1055708723.76129.1362331048653.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

I have been taking care of the "small" announces on my '70 TR6 that do not
inhibit my driving, but have remained on the to do list for some time.  One of
them is the "privacy" door lock on the driver's side door.  When I go to lock
the door, the cylindar partially comes out of the hole in the door, but the
door will lock. So, upon removing the door panel (back end at least) you can
see the lock slide outward on the side that does not have the collar leg that
is to secure the lock to the door.  All I can figure is that I have 2
passenger side locks since the passenger side also only has one collar leg,
but it is facing away frmo the door jam and therefore, with that on one side
and the lock fork on the other, the two hold the lock steady in the hole.  So,
I need to remove the lock from the door to see of I can fix this.  The problem
I am facing is how to push in the collar leg so I can push out the lock
cylindar through the hole.  I canot hold it in tight enough with my one finger
to allow it to slide and I canot for the life of me figure out what sort of
tool to use that would hold this in while allowing the lock to slide out. I
have tried a screw drive to press it in, but this did not work.  The manula
says use an appropriate tool, but I have no idea what this might be.  Anyone
BTDT that can help.  TIA

Scott Suhring
Mechanicsburg,PA
'70 TR6
'59 TR3A

From terryrs at comcast.net  Sun Mar  3 10:44:24 2013
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2013 17:44:24 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Dum
In-Reply-To: <F5EA6A60-87A6-48AC-A979-89CADB6F85F6@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1631792934.121831.1362332664878.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

I realize that I am isolated and alone in the I-can-be-such-a-dope category.

I've been daily driving my '59 TR3A for about 11 years now, since the ground up restoration of the racoon restroom it had become and remained for 25 years in a shed in Ossinee, NY.

All the time driving, when I got caught in a summer rain, water leaked all over my pants.  I thought,  "My, that's a lot of water, even by LBC standards!"  But you know, you give a nod to the Coventry god who is a quadruplet twin to Coyote, Loki, and Lucas.  "It's just the way it is,"  I said to myself.  "Must accept."

This year, getting the car ready for spring, I thought, let's look again at those drain tubes to the scuttle and the battery.  So I ordered them to replace them one way or another.  When I went to install the drain tube to the scuttle, I checked the old one out.  Seemed fine.  "Yep, I thought, that's just the way it is.  Stay wet but have fun."  

Then I traced the old scuttle tube to wherever it exited to cockpit through the bulkhead, so I'd get it right replacing it.

Uhm...it did not exit the cockpit.  Instead, it had been cut off to drain directly over my legs.  And I am the DPO on this one.  Dum dum dum.

Good news?  Installed properly, the drain tube may actually keep me somewhat relatively maybe partway dry this summer!

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A  TS 58667
New Hampshire

From levilevi at comcast.net  Sun Mar  3 10:48:23 2013
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud R)
Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2013 10:48:23 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 Door Lock removal
In-Reply-To: <1055708723.76129.1362331048653.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1055708723.76129.1362331048653.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <03456C94-1922-4678-BFD2-CD6A45735A58@comcast.net>

Sounds like a job for small needle nose vise grip pliers. I use them  
to pull dust caps off wheels also.

Or can you get a plastic wire tie on it to squeeze the collar leg  
while you push it out?


Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle
77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)








On Mar 3, 2013, at 10:17 AM, suhringtr36 at comcast.net wrote:

> I have been taking care of the "small" announces on my '70 TR6 that  
> do not
> inhibit my driving, but have remained on the to do list for some  
> time.  One of
> them is the "privacy" door lock on the driver's side door.  When I  
> go to lock
> the door, the cylindar partially comes out of the hole in the door,  
> but the
> door will lock. So, upon removing the door panel (back end at least)  
> you can
> see the lock slide outward on the side that does not have the collar  
> leg that
> is to secure the lock to the door.  All I can figure is that I have 2
> passenger side locks since the passenger side also only has one  
> collar leg,
> but it is facing away frmo the door jam and therefore, with that on  
> one side
> and the lock fork on the other, the two hold the lock steady in the  
> hole.  So,
> I need to remove the lock from the door to see of I can fix this.   
> The problem
> I am facing is how to push in the collar leg so I can push out the  
> lock
> cylindar through the hole.  I canot hold it in tight enough with my  
> one finger
> to allow it to slide and I canot for the life of me figure out what  
> sort of
> tool to use that would hold this in while allowing the lock to slide  
> out. I
> have tried a screw drive to press it in, but this did not work.  The  
> manula
> says use an appropriate tool, but I have no idea what this might  
> be.  Anyone
> BTDT that can help.  TIA
>
> Scott Suhring
> Mechanicsburg,PA
> '70 TR6
> '59 TR3A
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Sun Mar  3 14:10:07 2013
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (CFM-TR)
Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2013 16:10:07 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 steering collumn
Message-ID: <003301ce1853$7c107a90$74316fb0$@verizon.net>

Putting it back together - I forgot to make note of which end of the outer
tube was at the top/bottom.  One end has a pair of holes the other end has
an indented ring.    Thanks.

 

Carl

1961 TR3A - TS81802LO

http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 

Tampa, Florida

From wbeech at flash.net  Sun Mar  3 14:19:45 2013
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2013 15:19:45 -0600
Subject: [TR] Dum
In-Reply-To: <1631792934.121831.1362332664878.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <890208.16519.bm@smtp107.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Noooo..... None of us have ever done anything dum when rebuilding our LBC.
I once re-built my Hillman Minx engine and forgot the wristpin cir-clips. At
last I informed the buyer that they were missing when I sold it.

Bill

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of terryrs at comcast.net
Sent: Sunday, March 03, 2013 11:44 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Dum

I realize that I am isolated and alone in the I-can-be-such-a-dope category.

I've been daily driving my '59 TR3A for about 11 years now, since the ground
up restoration of the racoon restroom it had become and remained for 25
years in a shed in Ossinee, NY.

All the time driving, when I got caught in a summer rain, water leaked all
over my pants.  I thought,  "My, that's a lot of water, even by LBC
standards!"  But you know, you give a nod to the Coventry god who is a
quadruplet twin to Coyote, Loki, and Lucas.  "It's just the way it is,"  I
said to myself.  "Must accept."

This year, getting the car ready for spring, I thought, let's look again at
those drain tubes to the scuttle and the battery.  So I ordered them to
replace them one way or another.  When I went to install the drain tube to
the scuttle, I checked the old one out.  Seemed fine.  "Yep, I thought,
that's just the way it is.  Stay wet but have fun."  

Then I traced the old scuttle tube to wherever it exited to cockpit through
the bulkhead, so I'd get it right replacing it.

Uhm...it did not exit the cockpit.  Instead, it had been cut off to drain
directly over my legs.  And I am the DPO on this one.  Dum dum dum.

Good news?  Installed properly, the drain tube may actually keep me somewhat
relatively maybe partway dry this summer!

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A  TS 58667
New Hampshire

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Mar  3 14:39:19 2013
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2013 13:39:19 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3 steering collumn
In-Reply-To: <003301ce1853$7c107a90$74316fb0$@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <35.9B.06772.603C3315@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

Indented ring goes at the top, holds the felt bushing.  Pair of holes go at
the bottom, holds the steel/rubber/nylon bushing assembly.

-- Randall 

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Sun Mar  3 14:42:47 2013
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (CFM-TR)
Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2013 16:42:47 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 steering collumn
In-Reply-To: <35.9B.06772.603C3315@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
References: <003301ce1853$7c107a90$74316fb0$@verizon.net>
	<35.9B.06772.603C3315@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <005001ce1858$0c43c640$24cb52c0$@verizon.net>

Thanks Randall...   There is also a second metal bushing (solid - not split)
that is still on the inner tube.   Any guidance there?
C


-----Original Message-----
From: Randall [mailto:TR3driver at ca.rr.com] 
Sent: Sunday, March 03, 2013 4:39 PM
To: cfmtr3a at verizon.net; ''Triumphs''
Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 steering collumn

Indented ring goes at the top, holds the felt bushing.  Pair of holes go at
the bottom, holds the steel/rubber/nylon bushing assembly.

-- Randall 

From peterara at msn.com  Sun Mar  3 15:46:31 2013
From: peterara at msn.com (Peter Arakelian)
Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2013 14:46:31 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR6 Throwout Bearing
Message-ID: <COL122-DS1B3F70C24BFC85BAE9378C1F90@phx.gbl>

>I found a nice deal on a LUK "Rep Set" clutch kit on eBay and got it for my
72
>TR6  Seems like a good kit.

>Included is a throwout bearing, and I'm wondering if its good enough to put
in
>the car. It has this marking: RHP UK 14/W 2 1/16.

>Do we have any knowledge of or good things to say about this bearing?
Thanks


The RHP UK 14/W 2 1/16 is the best throwout bearing you can get.  It is OE.
Comes in all LUK sets for TR6.  The kits also come with a new pilot bearing.

Peter

From moira.secrest at verizon.net  Sun Mar  3 16:30:47 2013
From: moira.secrest at verizon.net (M. Secrest)
Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2013 18:30:47 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 Throwout Bearing
In-Reply-To: <COL122-DS1B3F70C24BFC85BAE9378C1F90@phx.gbl>
References: <COL122-DS1B3F70C24BFC85BAE9378C1F90@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <E00A5934-56F6-4BBF-8643-99BFA18C435B@verizon.net>

This is what I like to hear!  Thanks Peter.



On Mar 3, 2013, at 5:46 PM, "Peter Arakelian" <peterara at msn.com> wrote:

>
>
> >I found a nice deal on a LUK "Rep Set" clutch kit on eBay and got it for my
72
> >TR6  Seems like a good kit.
>
> >Included is a throwout bearing, and I'm wondering if its good enough to put
in
> >the car. It has this marking: RHP UK 14/W 2 1/16.
>
> >Do we have any knowledge of or good things to say about this bearing?
Thanks
>
>
> The RHP UK 14/W 2 1/16 is the best throwout bearing you can get.  It is OE.
> Comes in all LUK sets for TR6.  The kits also come with a new pilot
bearing.
>
> Peter

From moira.secrest at verizon.net  Sun Mar  3 16:42:02 2013
From: moira.secrest at verizon.net (M. Secrest)
Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2013 18:42:02 -0500
Subject: [TR] 72 TR6 Gearbox Crossmember/Mount
In-Reply-To: <COL122-DS1B3F70C24BFC85BAE9378C1F90@phx.gbl>
References: <COL122-DS1B3F70C24BFC85BAE9378C1F90@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <182B6039-036F-44C7-9120-87CF1BFDB063@verizon.net>

Now that we've solved my TOB question, I have at least one more pertaining to
the winter R&R of the gearbox on my 72 TR6.

This car has the earlier molded flexible center crossmember support. It looks
to me like the PO tried to refurbish it himself with some kind of injectable
rubber, but it was too badly knackered to really tell.

It seems this is a $70 part off the shelf, but is there another way to rehab
this part?  Once I cleaned up mine, the rubber is gone and I'm holding the two
separate pieces.

Martin Secrest
Arlington VA

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Sun Mar  3 17:26:59 2013
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (CFM-TR)
Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2013 19:26:59 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 steering column
Message-ID: <006201ce186e$fc6268a0$f52739e0$@verizon.net>

Here is the situation...  The connector for the split steering column is
'stuck'.   I tried everything I could think of to get it separated/removed
from the inner column. 

I could remove the outer tube; the rubber portion of the bushing assembly
and a split metal bushing as well as the two rubber O-Rings - all over the
steering wheel end of the column.  There is one solid metal bushing still on
the inner column - not being able to slide it over the steering wheel end.
(this was all done in about 2001)

The O-Rings as I understand it are placed so that they split the inner
column into thirds.   
I can get the rubber part of the bushing where it is supposed to go but
can't figure out the split and solid bushing.  Which one goes with the
rubber part at the bottom end?  and then, where does the other one go?  It
would seem that if I couldn't get the solid one off that the split one goes
on the top end but it would also be possible to compress and slide the split
one inside the other to the bottom end.  

Finally, the parts manual calls for two felt pieces at the top end but I can
only see how one would fit between the indent I mentioned and the top of the
column.

To say the least - today has been a frustrating day.
Although not part of the original plan, I will be ordering a replacement
bushing (maybe with urethane insert) to replace the rubber one that was NOS
but sitting in a drawer for 12 years and has cracked with all of the
twisting and turning today.  (Thoughts about urethane TRF#209423/u?)  

One other thought.  I am not there yet, but should the control head be
attached and wires fed through the stator tube before inserting into the
column - or after?
any guidance will be appreciated.

Carl
1961 TR3A - TS81802LO
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 
Tampa, Florida


-----Original Message-----
From: Randall [mailto:TR3driver at ca.rr.com]
Indented ring goes at the top, holds the felt bushing.  Pair of holes go at
the bottom, holds the steel/rubber/nylon bushing assembly.

-- Randall 

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Sun Mar  3 17:50:55 2013
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (CFM-TR)
Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2013 19:50:55 -0500
Subject: [TR] The day was not completely lost
Message-ID: <006301ce1872$54805d00$fd811700$@verizon.net>

Although today was mostly spent dealing with the steering column.   I
decided to look into a couple boxes that were sitting in the corner.  I
figured they were part of the project but had forgotten about them.  Mostly
it was used and not very useful bits, but buried in the bottom of one box
were a pair of Al-fin brake drums still in the original packaging.  date
stamped 12-02-66.  (I believe that would be feb 12 '66).   The receipt was
dated April 13, 1983 and they were purchased for $163.84 including
tax/shipping.     I had to install them immediately.  

 

images at: 

http://i1001.photobucket.com/albums/af136/cfmtr3a/Al-fin%20Brake%20Drum/_094
0s.jpg 

 

 

Carl

1961 TR3A - TS81802LO

http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 

Tampa, Florida

From wbeech at flash.net  Sun Mar  3 18:57:23 2013
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2013 19:57:23 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR3 steering column
In-Reply-To: <006201ce186e$fc6268a0$f52739e0$@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <883969.67465.bm@smtp109.sbc.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I have always made up the control head complete and the fed the wires & tube
through the steering column.  Just seemed like the easiet way for me. 

Don't foret the olive!

Bill 

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Even if you are on the right track, you'll get run over if you just sit
there"  Will Rodgers



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of CFM-TR
Sent: Sunday, March 03, 2013 6:27 PM
To: ''Triumphs''
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 steering column

Here is the situation...  The connector for the split steering column is
'stuck'.   I tried everything I could think of to get it separated/removed
from the inner column. 

I could remove the outer tube; the rubber portion of the bushing assembly
and a split metal bushing as well as the two rubber O-Rings - all over the
steering wheel end of the column.  There is one solid metal bushing still on
the inner column - not being able to slide it over the steering wheel end.
(this was all done in about 2001)

The O-Rings as I understand it are placed so that they split the inner
column into thirds.   
I can get the rubber part of the bushing where it is supposed to go but
can't figure out the split and solid bushing.  Which one goes with the
rubber part at the bottom end?  and then, where does the other one go?  It
would seem that if I couldn't get the solid one off that the split one goes
on the top end but it would also be possible to compress and slide the split
one inside the other to the bottom end.  

Finally, the parts manual calls for two felt pieces at the top end but I can
only see how one would fit between the indent I mentioned and the top of the
column.

To say the least - today has been a frustrating day.
Although not part of the original plan, I will be ordering a replacement
bushing (maybe with urethane insert) to replace the rubber one that was NOS
but sitting in a drawer for 12 years and has cracked with all of the
twisting and turning today.  (Thoughts about urethane TRF#209423/u?)  

One other thought.  I am not there yet, but should the control head be
attached and wires fed through the stator tube before inserting into the
column - or after?
any guidance will be appreciated.

Carl
1961 TR3A - TS81802LO
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/
Tampa, Florida


-----Original Message-----
From: Randall [mailto:TR3driver at ca.rr.com]
Indented ring goes at the top, holds the felt bushing.  Pair of holes go at
the bottom, holds the steel/rubber/nylon bushing assembly.

-- Randall 

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Mar  3 19:00:46 2013
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2013 18:00:46 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3 steering column
In-Reply-To: <006201ce186e$fc6268a0$f52739e0$@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <77.88.11869.C4004315@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> Here is the situation...  The connector for the split 
> steering column is
> 'stuck'.   I tried everything I could think of to get it 
> separated/removed
> from the inner column. 

You've removed the bolts entirely, of course.  Have you tried driving a
screwdriver blade into the slot (through where the bolt was) to spread the
collar a bit more?  Soaked in PBB?  Tapped (more or less gently) with a BFH
on the bolt 'ears'?

Maybe it's time to drop the apron and remove the steering box and column as
a unit (like those of us with earlier cars have to do).  I'd be reluctant to
pound very hard against the bearings, worm and peg inside the steering box.

> There is one solid metal bushing still on the inner 
> column - not being able to slide it over the steering wheel end.
> (this was all done in about 2001)

I'm afraid you lost me there.  Maybe it's just been too long, but I don't
recall any metal bushing except for the one inside the assembly at the
bottom (which was split at least on my car).  Unless maybe the later split
columns used a bushing inside the felt ring?  That area was quite a bit
larger as I recall, so using a sleeve there would probably reduce cost.  But
I don't remember any signs it would come apart there, and I can't seem to
find one at the moment to look at.

> The O-Rings as I understand it are placed so that they split the inner
> column into thirds.

Although not listed that way in the catalogs, it's my belief that those were
deleted for the split column.  At any rate, it doesn't seem like they could
do anything with the shaft supported so close to either side.  If you are
hitting bumps hard enough to bend those tubes enough to touch, then you've
got a lot worse problems than some rattling from the steering column!  I
didn't even find any inside TS13571L, so they may have been deleted much
earlier.

> Finally, the parts manual calls for two felt pieces at the 
> top end but I can only see how one would fit between the 
> indent I mentioned and the top of the column.

Me too.  The drawing only shows one, and the workshop manual refers to it as
singular, so I think that might be a misprint in the parts book.  The other
possibility is that the original felt was much smaller.  The replacement I
got was too thick anyway, I eventually machined a Delrin bushing instead.

> (Thoughts about urethane TRF#209423/u?

Can't see the advantage myself.  On a TR3A, those joints take no side force
at all (except from vibration) and the original nylon seemed to hold up just
fine.  I think the urethane version may be more appropriate for later cars
with flexible joints in the column (and even then Delrin seems like a better
choice to me).

> One other thought.  I am not there yet, but should the 
> control head be attached and wires fed through the stator 
> tube before inserting into the column - or after?

For sure get the column assembled and adjusted first.  Everything has to get
lined up "just so" to get it to turn freely.  (Probably best to complete
this phase with the Pitman arm disconnected so you can more easily feel any
drag.)

As far as feeding the wires through the stator tube though, I'd say it's
pretty much a wash. When I'm R&R'ing the same components, I like to leave
the wire in the tube just because it saves having to fish a pulling wire
through the tube and fasten it to the electrical wires.  But if you have to
do that anyway, the extra ease of fishing the wires with the tube off the
car just about balances the extra hassle of having to support the wires and
control head while installing the tube, IMO.

-- Randall 

From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Mar  3 21:21:17 2013
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 03 Mar 2013 21:21:17 -0700
Subject: [TR] The day was not completely lost
In-Reply-To: <006301ce1872$54805d00$fd811700$@verizon.net>
References: <006301ce1872$54805d00$fd811700$@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <5134213D.8050403@bradakis.com>

 >  images at: 
http://i1001.photobucket.com/albums/af136/cfmtr3a/Al-fin%20Brake%20Drum/_0940s.jpg


Nice!

mjb.

From mtgaines at presby.edu  Sun Mar  3 21:43:06 2013
From: mtgaines at presby.edu (Tim Gaines)
Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2013 23:43:06 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] Waking a sleeping car
In-Reply-To: <785439.5397.bm@smtp110.sbc.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20201007.36.1362372185044.JavaMail.User@User-PC>

I should have thought of the lawnmower for burning old gas.  I actually did that, on a much smaller scale, with a gallon can of gas that had been in my dad's trunk for a few years.  I guess over the course of the spring and summer, I should be able to use up 8 gallons in small doses.

Thanks,
Tim

----- Original Message -----
From: wbeech at flash.net
To: "Tim Gaines" <mtgaines at presby.edu>, triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Saturday, March 2, 2013 10:34:15 AM
Subject: RE: [TR] Waking a sleeping car


I had a similar problem when I took posession of a long-dormant TR3 last
year, BTW, new gas and it fired right up.  Didn't want to dump it and the
local recycle only take oil.

I mixed it some of the old fuel 50/50 in the lawnmower.

<snip>

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tim Gaines
Sent: Saturday, March 02, 2013 9:01 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Waking a sleeping car

After finishing the HVDA tranny conversion on my TR6 (loving it so far!) I
now have to get back to the Spitfire differential rebuild I started 3 years
ago, before retirement.  I may not pull that off by myself, but at some
point I have to revive the poor engine that I have neglected most of that
time (the guilt is terrible).  My question is, what do I do with the 7 or 8
gallons of gas in the tank?

Tim Gaines
Clinton, SC
1974 TR6
1980 Spitfire  


----- Original Message -----
From: terryrs at comcast.net
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2013 6:18:56 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Waking a sleeping car

<snip>

One, of course, is never run the old gas.  Even if it starts, it will
varnish everything in sight to some degree.  While you're at it, stick a
magnet in the gas tank to see if it collects a pod of rust.

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Sun Mar  3 22:20:45 2013
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Sun, 3 Mar 2013 21:20:45 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Why is the TR3 Hard Starting?
Message-ID: <1362374445.99713.YahooMailNeo@web180902.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

     My TR3 is hard starting in the winter. It is garage kept and the garage
has been in the 60's inside. After not driving for 3 weeks it cranks slower
than I would like and tries to start and dies. It eventually will start. It
starts easily for the rest of the day. Then next day it starts readily as
well.
     If I leave the car out on a cold day (30's) it is hard starting as
well.

     I am debating what gives. Maybe the battery is just weak and the
next day it is all charged up and cranks faster. Could it be something else
that I am missing?

     -Bill in Tehachapi

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Mon Mar  4 06:55:12 2013
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2013 08:55:12 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] Why is the TR3 Hard Starting?
Message-ID: <9d24.1f300a2a.3e6601c0@aol.com>

Bill,
 
Could be two things......weak battery and/or fuel evaporating naturally in  
the fuel bowls.  Over the winter I try to get my TR4 out for a run at least 
 once a month and mine cranks a little slower at first and it takes a few 
cranks  to get her fired up.  If I come back in a week, it's almost as though 
it  were yesterday...fires right up. 
 
Interestingly, a three week layover in the summer doesn't seem to bother  
the starting......my guess is that the summer humidity slows down fuel  
evaporation.
 
So, assuming the battery is being completely charged and is holding a  
charge, if it starts fine and runs fine after it's been running and turned off,  
I'd say that the cranky starting after a long layover is just the "nature 
of the  beast".
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA 
1962 TR4  CT2052L
 
 
 
In a message dated 3/4/2013 12:46:31 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
wsb1960tr3a at att.net writes:

After  not driving for 3 weeks it cranks slower
than I would like and tries to  start and dies. It eventually will  start.

From darrellw360 at mac.com  Mon Mar  4 07:28:56 2013
From: darrellw360 at mac.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2013 06:28:56 -0800
Subject: [TR] Why is the TR3 Hard Starting?
In-Reply-To: <9d24.1f300a2a.3e6601c0@aol.com>
References: <9d24.1f300a2a.3e6601c0@aol.com>
Message-ID: <C827DB81-4D1A-4F9E-8899-0F7C3E413929@mac.com>

A couple of things to try.  If you have a priming lever on your fuel pump, use
that to make sure your float bowls are full.  If you have battery charger,
make sure your battery is fully charged and see if that affects your starting.
If your battery is weak, causing slow cranking, it may also be causing a weak
spark.  If your choke isn't working well, that could create a too-lean mixture
(which would exacerbate a weak spark problem).

-Darrell

From wbeech at flash.net  Mon Mar  4 08:24:14 2013
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2013 09:24:14 -0600
Subject: [TR] Why is the TR3 Hard Starting?
In-Reply-To: <1362374445.99713.YahooMailNeo@web180902.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <555745.59692.bm@smtp109.sbc.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Bill,

This is a long shot but it actually happened to me a few years ago with the
early style starter on TS30766L.  Car was real hard to turnover on the
initial starting for the day, but after that it was fine.  I thought it was
a battery issue, discharging over the week, so I bought a new one.  Then had
the starter re-built and when that did not cure it I even added a separate
ground to the starter bolt as well as double-checking all the battery
connections.

Well, it was the steel-encased rubber collar (Moss:"Sleeve Assembly" p/n
549-580) that was beginning to fail and did not get replaced by the
re-builder.  Bought a new one from Moss, re-build shop replaced it at n/c,
Bob's your uncle and all has been right since then.

Yes, the fuel in the float does evaporate and so the first start after a
week or three of idleness take a few extra cranks with full choke to get
everything flowing.... but she always starts.

BTDT,
Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Even if you are on the right track, you'll get run over if you just sit
there"  Will Rodgers




-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer
Sent: Sunday, March 03, 2013 11:21 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] Why is the TR3 Hard Starting?

     My TR3 is hard starting in the winter. It is garage kept and the garage
has been in the 60's inside. After not driving for 3 weeks it cranks slower
than I would like and tries to start and dies. It eventually will start. It
starts easily for the rest of the day. Then next day it starts readily as
well.
     If I leave the car out on a cold day (30's) it is hard starting as
well.

     I am debating what gives. Maybe the battery is just weak and the next
day it is all charged up and cranks faster. Could it be something else that
I am missing?

     -Bill in Tehachapi

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From dave at ranteer.com  Mon Mar  4 09:05:22 2013
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2013 10:05:22 -0600
Subject: [TR] parts needed for a tr3 (small mouth)
Message-ID: <44820090913E4E59BB1E8AA489C60E00@Datsun>

I need the wood for the tr3 doors.

can anyone help me here?

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Mon Mar  4 09:24:22 2013
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2013 08:24:22 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Why is the TR3 Hard Starting?
In-Reply-To: <555745.59692.bm@smtp109.sbc.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <1362374445.99713.YahooMailNeo@web180902.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<555745.59692.bm@smtp109.sbc.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1362414262.86889.YahooMailNeo@web180906.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Great advice Bill,
     Great advice, but I have a post-6000 car without that
sleeve assembly part in the starter.
     I have an electric fuel pump and
wait for the bowls to fill up before cranking.
     Maybe it is time to
upgrade to a modern geared starter motor and/or a new battery.
 
     -Bill in
Tehachapi
 
 

________________________________
 From: "wbeech at flash.net"
<wbeech at flash.net>
To: 'William Brewer' <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>; 'Triumphs'
<triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Monday, March 4, 2013 7:24 AM
Subject: RE:
[TR] Why is the TR3 Hard Starting?
  
Bill,

This is a long shot but it
actually happened to me a few years ago with the
early style starter on
TS30766L.  Car was real hard to turnover on the
initial starting for the day,
but after that it was fine.  I thought it was
a battery issue, discharging
over the week, so I bought a new one.  Then had
the starter re-built and when
that did not cure it I even added a separate
ground to the starter bolt as
well as double-checking all the battery
connections.

Well, it was the
steel-encased rubber collar (Moss:"Sleeve Assembly" p/n
549-580) that was
beginning to fail and did not get replaced by the
re-builder.  Bought a new
one from Moss, re-build shop replaced it at n/c,
Bob's your uncle and all has
been right since then.

Yes, the fuel in the float does evaporate and so the
first start after a
week or three of idleness take a few extra cranks with
full choke to get
everything flowing.... but she always starts.

BTDT,
Bill
Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in
rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Even if you are on the right track, you'll get run over if you just sit
there"  Will Rodgers




-----Original Message-----
From:
triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of William Brewer
Sent: Sunday, March 03, 2013 11:21 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] Why is the TR3 Hard Starting?

     My TR3 is hard starting in
the winter. It is garage kept and the garage
has been in the 60's inside.
After not driving for 3 weeks it cranks slower
than I would like and tries to
start and dies. It eventually will start. It
starts easily for the rest of the
day. Then next day it starts readily as
well.
     If I leave the car out on a
cold day (30's) it is hard starting as
well.

     I am debating what gives.
Maybe the battery is just weak and the next
day it is all charged up and
cranks faster. Could it be something else that
I am missing?

     -Bill in
Tehachapi

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Mar  4 10:24:45 2013
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2013 09:24:45 -0800
Subject: [TR] Why is the TR3 Hard Starting?
In-Reply-To: <1362374445.99713.YahooMailNeo@web180902.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <A0.0F.06772.AD8D4315@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

>      My TR3 is hard starting in the winter. It is garage kept 
> and the garage has been in the 60's inside. After not driving 
> for 3 weeks it cranks slower than I would like and tries to 
> start and dies. It eventually will start. It starts easily 
> for the rest of the day. Then next day it starts readily as well.

Sounds to me like multiple (tho possibly related) problems.

Cold weather is a quadruple whammy: batteries lose a lot of performance when
they are cold, it's harder for the spark to jump the gap, fuel doesn't want
to vaporize, and the engine is harder to turn.  Cold weather basically
brings out the worst, so a lot of marginal problems only show up when the
engine is cold.

I would probably start by finding some place that can do a battery load test
and starter current test.  I know O'Reillys will do it for free, not sure
about NAPA or AutoZone (so call around first).  Even if they don't spot a
problem with it, might be worth pulling the starter for inspection.  I had
one where the drive end bushing was worn until the armature was rubbing on
the pole pieces, that didn't like to crank in cold weather but worked OK
when it was warm.

You can also try cranking for about 30 seconds with a coil wire off, and
then feeling the battery posts and other connections to the starter
(including the grounds and solenoid body).  If something is hot, you found a
bad connection.

Be sure the choke is lowering both jets by at least 1/4" and roughly the
same amount.  My TR likes lots of choke when the weather is cold (but back
off by about half as soon as the engine fires to avoid black smoke and
washing the cylinder walls).

I'm assuming you have reasonably thin oil, fresh plugs and so on.

-- Randall 

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Mon Mar  4 11:11:32 2013
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2013 13:11:32 -0500
Subject: [TR] Any one used spray on bedliner in their TR4 or TR6 trunk ?
Message-ID: <CANhzkeMRhBY46NaftjAq-LKTROvn9c-aB3hiv4rGDuB127mK2A@mail.gmail.com>

Was cleaning the trunk of the TR6 this weekend and was contemplating just
spraying the spare tire well with truck bed liner - and then thought - what
about the whole thing?

Any one used this stuff in their trunk?  If so, how did it work out?

From wbeech at flash.net  Mon Mar  4 11:22:59 2013
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2013 12:22:59 -0600
Subject: [TR] Any one used spray on bedliner in their TR4 or TR6 trunk ?
In-Reply-To: <CANhzkeMRhBY46NaftjAq-LKTROvn9c-aB3hiv4rGDuB127mK2A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <465691.29743.bm@smtp101.sbc.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

I did a DIY kit in my truck about 6 years back, holding up well.  Why not,
great idea.
B 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Simo
Sent: Monday, March 04, 2013 12:12 PM
To: list Triumph
Subject: [TR] Any one used spray on bedliner in their TR4 or TR6 trunk ?

Was cleaning the trunk of the TR6 this weekend and was contemplating just
spraying the spare tire well with truck bed liner - and then thought - what
about the whole thing?

Any one used this stuff in their trunk?  If so, how did it work out?

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From jmcoh at comcast.net  Mon Mar  4 11:48:53 2013
From: jmcoh at comcast.net (John Cohen)
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2013 13:48:53 -0500
Subject: [TR] Any one used spray on bedliner in their TR4 or TR6 trunk ?
In-Reply-To: <CANhzkeMRhBY46NaftjAq-LKTROvn9c-aB3hiv4rGDuB127mK2A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANhzkeMRhBY46NaftjAq-LKTROvn9c-aB3hiv4rGDuB127mK2A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <005f01ce1908$eb91d980$c2b58c80$@net>

Chris,
Yes, I  used the spray on bed liner material for the boot and the floor
pans.  It is in body color, looks fantastic and is bulletproof.  I have had
it on since 2004, have had no problems and would recommend it highly. 

John Cohen
http://www.triumphowners.com/701 



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Simo
Sent: Monday, March 04, 2013 1:12 PM
To: list Triumph
Subject: [TR] Any one used spray on bedliner in their TR4 or TR6 trunk ?

Was cleaning the trunk of the TR6 this weekend and was contemplating just
spraying the spare tire well with truck bed liner - and then thought - what
about the whole thing?

Any one used this stuff in their trunk?  If so, how did it work out?

From pethier at comcast.net  Mon Mar  4 11:59:22 2013
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2013 18:59:22 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Any one used spray on bedliner in their TR4 or TR6 trunk ?
In-Reply-To: <CANhzkeMRhBY46NaftjAq-LKTROvn9c-aB3hiv4rGDuB127mK2A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1319961878.42489.1362423562271.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Then of course there is the Spitfire guy who painted the entire OUTside of the car with bed liner...

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier at comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

----- Original Message -----
> From: "Chris Simo" <ccsimonsen at gmail.com>
> To: "list Triumph" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, March 4, 2013 12:11:32 PM
> Subject: [TR] Any one used spray on bedliner in their TR4 or TR6 trunk ?
> Was cleaning the trunk of the TR6 this weekend and was contemplating
> just
> spraying the spare tire well with truck bed liner - and then thought -
> what
> about the whole thing?

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Mon Mar  4 13:19:01 2013
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2013 15:19:01 -0500
Subject: [TR] Any one used spray on bedliner in their TR4 or TR6 trunk ?
In-Reply-To: <1319961878.42489.1362423562271.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <CANhzkeMRhBY46NaftjAq-LKTROvn9c-aB3hiv4rGDuB127mK2A@mail.gmail.com>,
	<1319961878.42489.1362423562271.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BLU168-W1093F08949CD209E91DBDCDBAFA0@phx.gbl>

Now, I kind of like that idea in my own sick and demented way.  Now that's the
kind of car I would enter in a car show just to stir the pot.  :)

Marty


> Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2013 18:59:22 +0000
> From: pethier at comcast.net
> To: ccsimonsen at gmail.com
> CC: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] Any one used spray on bedliner in their TR4 or TR6 trunk
?
>
> Then of course there is the Spitfire guy who painted the entire OUTside of
the car with bed liner...

From sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com  Mon Mar  4 14:21:27 2013
From: sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com (Steve Thornton)
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2013 15:21:27 -0600
Subject: [TR] Shameless plug and thanks!
Message-ID: <894814762C6AC84896B8CC3C72CDD2BB01950FAE@SOTSERVER.stevethorntonlaw.local>

Hello list-





After almost 3 decades of TR ownership, I find myself in a position of
downsizing, which includes vehicles. While I have enjoyed many great
TR's, I am down to one- a TR250. I listed it today on Ebay.

I have owned a TR2, a TR3B, a TR4, two TR250's and a TR6. Two of them
have won national concours awards, which I cherish. I have also owned
assorted Jaguars and of course, the obligatory MGB many years ago. Heck,
I even owned a Fiat 850 in high school!

However, I have made many friends through this list and cannot thank
Mark enough for his contribution to our hobby. His influence cannot be
mentioned enough. It is hard to part with my last TR without thinking of
Fred Thomas. What a guy and he is missed by many, including me. Without
this forum his knowledge would not have been spread nearly as wide, or
far.

I will miss seeing many of you and I may perhaps return someday to LBC
ownership, who knows.

Until then,....







Steven O. Thornton

1011 Lehman Avenue

Suite 102

Bowling Green, KY   42103



270-779-9871

From terryrs at comcast.net  Mon Mar  4 15:48:15 2013
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2013 22:48:15 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Why is the TR3 Hard Starting?
In-Reply-To: <1362374445.99713.YahooMailNeo@web180902.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <122244453.177879.1362437295986.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>    My TR3 is hard starting in the winter. It is garage kept and the garage
>has been in the 60's inside. After not driving for 3 weeks it cranks slower
>than I would like and tries to start and dies. It eventually will start. It
>starts easily for the rest of the day.     

Mine had been sitting since December, also in a garage.  Was so hard to start, I had to check spark and fuel to make sure it was getting any.  It was, and eventually kicked over.  Even then, it wouldn't reve right away, not til it warmed up. 

I was figuring that it's all because the engine only has about 2,000 miles on it and is tight.

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A  TS 58667
New Hampshire

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Mon Mar  4 16:08:54 2013
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2013 18:08:54 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] Why is the TR3 Hard Starting?
Message-ID: <14501.5cf60242.3e668386@aol.com>

I've found that priming the fuel pump, before the first start each day,  
helps a lot. Just open the bonnet, reach down to the fuel pump on the driver's 
 side (LHD). Below the fuel pump is a lever that you lift in rapid 
succession and  this pumps fuel through to the carburettors. Then, when you press 
the starter  button, the car bursts into life almost immediately.
 
Of course, this assumes that everything else is as it should be, in terms  
of ignition, carburetion, etc.
 
Tim
 
 
 
In a message dated 04/03/2013 5:49:09 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
terryrs at comcast.net writes:

>    My TR3 is hard starting in the winter. It is  garage kept and the 
garage
>has been in the 60's inside. After not  driving for 3 weeks it cranks 
slower
>than I would like and tries to  start and dies. It eventually will start. 
It
>starts easily for the rest  of the day.     

Mine had been sitting since December,  also in a garage.  Was so hard to 
start, I had to check spark and fuel to  make sure it was getting any.  It 
was, and eventually kicked over.   Even then, it wouldn't reve right away, not 
til it warmed up. 

I was  figuring that it's all because the engine only has about 2,000 miles 
on it and  is tight.

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A  TS 58667
New  Hampshire

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From terryrs at comcast.net  Mon Mar  4 17:31:39 2013
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2013 00:31:39 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Why is the TR3 Hard Starting?
In-Reply-To: <122244453.177879.1362437295986.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1444586173.182194.1362443499158.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>>    My TR3 is hard starting in the winter. It is garage kept and the garage
>>has been in the 60's inside. After not driving for 3 weeks it cranks slower
>>than I would like and tries to start and dies. It eventually will start. It
>>starts easily for the rest of the day.     

>Mine had been sitting since December, also in a garage.  Was so hard to start, I had to check spark and fuel to make sure it was getting any.  It was, and >eventually kicked over.  Even then, it wouldn't reve right away, not til it warmed up. 

>I was figuring that it's all because the engine only has about 2,000 miles on it and is tight.


I should have added, I have an electric fuel pump and I wait for pressure to fill the resevoirs.  And I run a gear reduction starter.  Temp in the garage is barely 42 degrees so I'm liking the concept of fuel that is so cold it doesn't want to vaporize.  Especially sounds good when I got a stronger idle as the engine (and gas line) warmed up.  

Terry

From trglory at verizon.net  Mon Mar  4 18:29:42 2013
From: trglory at verizon.net (Joseph Laurito)
Date: Mon, 04 Mar 2013 20:29:42 -0500
Subject: [TR] Why is the TR3 Hard Starting?
In-Reply-To: <122244453.177879.1362437295986.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1362374445.99713.YahooMailNeo@web180902.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<122244453.177879.1362437295986.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <004d01ce1940$e9dc8df0$bd95a9d0$@net>

I'm thinking it might have a lot to do with the gasoline we pumped into it
which was crap when it was fresh. Now that it sat over the winter it doesn't
have enough energy left to run a kerosene stove. I looked in the glass bowl
filter and the liquid is bright amber. That color is great for bourbon but
not so great for gasoline.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of terryrs at comcast.net
Sent: Monday, March 04, 2013 5:48 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] Why is the TR3 Hard Starting?

>    My TR3 is hard starting in the winter. It is garage kept and the 
>garage has been in the 60's inside. After not driving for 3 weeks it 
>cranks slower than I would like and tries to start and dies. It eventually
will start. It
>starts easily for the rest of the day.     

Mine had been sitting since December, also in a garage.  Was so hard to
start, I had to check spark and fuel to make sure it was getting any.  It
was, and eventually kicked over.  Even then, it wouldn't reve right away,
not til it warmed up. 

I was figuring that it's all because the engine only has about 2,000 miles
on it and is tight.

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A  TS 58667
New Hampshire

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Mon Mar  4 22:56:30 2013
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2013 00:56:30 -0500
Subject: [TR] 1933 Triumph Gloria ad from UK dealer (photos after link)
Message-ID: <CAPK7CFAQnk+aZ+6CNjiPDfvsSJpyB0N1zOLg7B0Jpydotj4SNg@mail.gmail.com>

One doesn't see many pre-war Triumphs at all (especially here in the US),
and few as fully restored as this one.  Great pictures for those who aren't
familiar with our marque's early models.  For sale in the UK at $75,000
(#50,000).

http://www.nutleysports.co.uk/TriumphGloriaSpeedSix-Red.htm

From spitlist at cox.net  Mon Mar  4 23:16:21 2013
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2013 23:16:21 -0700
Subject: [TR] 1933 Triumph Gloria ad from UK dealer (photos after link)
In-Reply-To: <CAPK7CFAQnk+aZ+6CNjiPDfvsSJpyB0N1zOLg7B0Jpydotj4SNg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPK7CFAQnk+aZ+6CNjiPDfvsSJpyB0N1zOLg7B0Jpydotj4SNg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C5DC594E0638498FA7B865AFDFE41453@Vista>

What a sweet ride.  I only wish I had 50,000 quid to grab it and ship to
Arizona.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Don Hiscock
Sent: Monday, March 04, 2013 10:57 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] 1933 Triumph Gloria ad from UK dealer (photos after link)

One doesn't see many pre-war Triumphs at all (especially here in the US),
and few as fully restored as this one.  Great pictures for those who aren't
familiar with our marque's early models.  For sale in the UK at $75,000
(#50,000).

http://www.nutleysports.co.uk/TriumphGloriaSpeedSix-Red.htm

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From wbeech at flash.net  Tue Mar  5 10:33:46 2013
From: wbeech at flash.net (WBEECH)
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2013 11:33:46 -0600
Subject: [TR] Crank handle mounting
Message-ID: <EA1679CC-0ADF-44CF-930B-40FBB0C01383@flash.net>

At VTR I saw a TR3 with the crank handle mounted to the fuel tank cover panel
in the boot. The owner said it was  the correct TR mounting location, however
it was the only one I saw in a sea of beautifully restored TRs.  I liked the
location and it displayed very nice, don't where the clips came from.

What is the collective wisdom on these location and its originality?

Many thanks
Bill

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Tue Mar  5 14:12:40 2013
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2013 13:12:40 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Crank handle mounting
In-Reply-To: <EA1679CC-0ADF-44CF-930B-40FBB0C01383@flash.net>
References: <EA1679CC-0ADF-44CF-930B-40FBB0C01383@flash.net>
Message-ID: <1362517960.39851.YahooMailNeo@web120001.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

i believe it was stowed in the spare tire compartment.
ill check the book
tonight for you if you don't get a more definitive answer.
Frank

From: WBEECH
<wbeech at flash.net>
To: "<triumphs at autox.team.net>" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 5, 2013 9:33 AM
Subject: [TR] Crank handle mounting

At
VTR I saw a TR3 with the crank handle mounted to the fuel tank cover panel
in
the boot. The owner said it was  the correct TR mounting location, however
it
was the only one I saw in a sea of beautifully restored TRs.  I liked the
location and it displayed very nice, don't where the clips came from.

What is
the collective wisdom on these location and its originality?

Many thanks
Bill
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Mar  5 18:46:52 2013
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2013 1:46:52 +0000
Subject: [TR] Crank handle mounting
In-Reply-To: <EA1679CC-0ADF-44CF-930B-40FBB0C01383@flash.net>
Message-ID: <20130306014652.W5QOR.23597.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>

---- WBEECH <wbeech at flash.net> wrote: 
> At VTR I saw a TR3 with the crank handle mounted to the fuel tank cover panel
> in the boot. The owner said it was  the correct TR mounting location, however
> it was the only one I saw in a sea of beautifully restored TRs.  I liked the
> location and it displayed very nice, don't where the clips came from.
> 
> What is the collective wisdom on these location and its originality?

I don't believe that is the original location.  There are photos in both the 2nd and 6th editions of "Practical Hints" showing the crank handle stored in the spare tire well, along with the jack and wheel 'brace'.  

Any hardware store will sell clips that will work, but of course they won't look "period correct".  I would also worry about the long-term effect of the weight of the handle hanging on the particle board panel.

-- Randall

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Tue Mar  5 20:18:18 2013
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Tue, 5 Mar 2013 21:18:18 -0600
Subject: [TR] 6 cylinder Engine Upgrades
Message-ID: <3E01AB44950349499AEBB0AFF0342A21@livingroompc>

There is a nice article on the VTR website by some guy named Mark Bradakis
(!?!) http://www.vtr.org/maintain/engine-mods-TR6.shtml
About 6 cylinder engine upgrades, it seems to indicate that more detailed
articles are to follow, but I can't find them on the VTR site, anybody have a
clue as to whether these articles are available somewhere, looked like
potentially good stuff.

Greg Lemon
TR250

From mark at bradakis.com  Wed Mar  6 12:34:58 2013
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2013 12:34:58 -0700
Subject: [TR] 6 cylinder Engine Upgrades
In-Reply-To: <3E01AB44950349499AEBB0AFF0342A21@livingroompc>
References: <3E01AB44950349499AEBB0AFF0342A21@livingroompc>
Message-ID: <51379A62.7020706@bradakis.com>

Greg Lemon wrote:
> There is a nice article on the VTR website by some guy named Mark Bradakis
> (!?!) http://www.vtr.org/maintain/engine-mods-TR6.shtml
> About 6 cylinder engine upgrades, it seems to indicate that more detailed
> articles are to follow, but I can't find them on the VTR site, anybody have a
> clue as to whether these articles are available somewhere, looked like
> potentially good stuff.
>
I never did get around to doing any more, sorry.

mjb.

From mark at bradakis.com  Wed Mar  6 13:09:19 2013
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2013 13:09:19 -0700
Subject: [TR] Network outage
Message-ID: <5137A26F.1000505@bradakis.com>

Had a network outage last night.  I took advantage of the downtime to do 
a bit
of work on the server, got the forums [ link below ] working once again.

mjb.

From jwalker at mainet.com  Wed Mar  6 13:09:14 2013
From: jwalker at mainet.com (John Walker)
Date: Wed, 06 Mar 2013 15:09:14 -0500
Subject: [TR] Crank handle mounting (Frank Fisher)
Message-ID: <51375C1A020000EF000107C7@smtp.mainet.com>

When I bought my first car, a new '59 TR-3A, in 1959, the crank handle was
stowed in the spare tire compartment.

JW
The Recalcitrant TR-3B TSF68368 TSF

From wbeech at flash.net  Wed Mar  6 13:18:18 2013
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2013 14:18:18 -0600
Subject: [TR] Crank handle mounting (Frank Fisher)
In-Reply-To: <51375C1A020000EF000107C7@smtp.mainet.com>
References: <51375C1A020000EF000107C7@smtp.mainet.com>
Message-ID: <E6602AD2B55A40C3A6A2B8530E7ECBE9@bboffice>

All,
thanks for the input, everyone who responded agreed that the crank handle
belongs in the spare tire compartment.
Regards,
Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Even if you are on the right track, you'll get run over if you just sit
there"  Will Rodgers

 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Walker
Sent: Wednesday, March 06, 2013 2:09 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Crank handle mounting (Frank Fisher)

When I bought my first car, a new '59 TR-3A, in 1959, the crank handle was
stowed in the spare tire compartment.

JW
The Recalcitrant TR-3B TSF68368 TSF

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Wed Mar  6 16:18:58 2013
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2013 16:18:58 -0700
Subject: [TR] Crank handle mounting (Frank Fisher)
In-Reply-To: <E6602AD2B55A40C3A6A2B8530E7ECBE9@bboffice>
References: <51375C1A020000EF000107C7@smtp.mainet.com>
	<E6602AD2B55A40C3A6A2B8530E7ECBE9@bboffice>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bGjiuas6eugAF0MqAGdPkbfPgV8eNvT3MLgWDOJFkbZNw@mail.gmail.com>

On Wed, Mar 6, 2013 at 1:18 PM, <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:

> ...everyone who responded agreed that the crank handle
> belongs in the spare tire compartment.
>


That may be where it belongs but I find it much handier to keep it in the
boot (on the floor) as I usually give a few cranking demos to car shows.
Years ago most kids had never seen this done -- nowadays it seems no one
remembers starting cranks.

I do put a rubber crutch tip over the end when storing as it is a bit
sharpish and keep a pair of Harbor Freight 'roping gloves' for using the
crank.

Geo

From larrygriffin.nc at gmail.com  Wed Mar  6 17:41:18 2013
From: larrygriffin.nc at gmail.com (Larry Griffin)
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2013 19:41:18 -0500
Subject: [TR] Science of the "Oil Issue" Part 1
Message-ID: <CAONC1_5ZvO86obz-R6RjC+9QF3TeFHtK3KWqYR00R8Y-rU_sCQ@mail.gmail.com>

The e-mail below was posted to the North Carolina MG Car Club list by
Max Fulton, of the Flying Circus English Cars in Durham, NC. To me, it
seemed to have some new information on the subject related to the
level of ZDDP to detergents in the oil. Max gave me permission to post
it to 6-Pack and the Triumph list. I am posting in 2 parts due to size
limitations.

NFI in Flying Circus. :-)

Thanks,
Larry Griffin
71 TR6

Max Fulton to ncmgcc
Hey All:

I attended the BMTA (British Motor Trade Association) conference this
weekend. There was an excellent presentation, done by Lake Speed Jr of
"Driven", a Joe Gibbs Racing subsidiary. He is a Tribologist-- "the
study and application of the principles of friction, lubrication and
wear."

He explained the concerns with oil and flat tappet camshafts (which
they use in NASCAR as well.) From what I've learned elsewhere, his
elaboration of the facts and data made a lot of sense and I found
nothing to disagree with.

For your edification, I'd like to share the highlights.

a) It's the phosphorous in the Oil (NOT the Zinc) that forms the
barrier to abrasion on the surface of the lifters and camshaft.
However, the phosphorous is carried in ZDDP-- Zinc
dialkyldithiophosphate--and thus why it's sometimes just abbreviated
as "zinc".

b) the amount of detergent in the oil prevents the further deposit of
the phosphorous. So, while an oil might claim a certain quantity of
ZDDP (say, 1200 ppm), IF the amount of detergent is greater than this
number, this is a worse oil for our engines than one, say, with a
lesser amount of ZDDP yet an equal amount of detergents. (And more
ZDDP than detergents, esp. with some hi anti-friction additives, is
best). Non-detergent oil, esp. for Break-In, is required. (This lays
down the all important first layer of phosphorous, a polar molecule
which requires heat to activate.) Racing oils have high ZDDP, high
anti-wear additives, and low detergents. (The oil is NOT expected to
be in the car very long!)

b-2) Corollary: Any HIGH-MILEAGE oils will have high detergents! Just
like there is no need for high-mileage tires in your old classic car,
a high-mileage oil is the exact opposite of what you want!

c) Boron and Molybdenum are the anti-friction additives. Moly, though,
is the best and most expensive, but is also magnetic (boron is not)
Therefore, using a magnetic pickup (drain plug or magnet on oil
filter?) to trap metal particles is only rendering your oil less
effective!

d) The FINISH on your cam and lifters is also very important! The
rougher the finish, the deeper the phosphorous film required, and thus
the more phosphorous needed in the oil.

**** This explains the raging debate on this issue: One guy claimed to
have wiped out a camshaft in only 900 miles using oil <x>, and another
guy claimed that oil was fine, the first guy must have done something
wrong, blah blahb& and it turned into a pissing contest. IF one allows
for the first cam to have a rougher finish, then the oil would not
have sufficed for that camshaft but may have been passable for the
other guys, etc. ****

e) Zinc Additives. (This is what we've been doing at FC). These are
actually hit and miss. Depending on the detergents in the oil used,
you STILL might not be adding enough zinc to make a difference. (Mr.
Speed showed one unnamed oil that was 3 times the amount of
detergents, and in a 20w-50 blend no less!) Also, the
detergents/dispersants might view the "external" zinc as a foreign
object and actually work to remove it! It is best, then, to use an oil
that was blended with the appropriate amount of ZDDP to begin with!

f) Diesel oils have a high level of ZDDP, but often more of detergents
(as it's a filthier combustion process). Recently Rotella changed it's
formulation, so it's now suspectb&

From larrygriffin.nc at gmail.com  Wed Mar  6 17:44:52 2013
From: larrygriffin.nc at gmail.com (Larry Griffin)
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2013 19:44:52 -0500
Subject: [TR] Science of the "Oil Issue" Part 2
Message-ID: <CAONC1_6DOaAuJULTrWyiFg_zimrmZOj_bkPNzTURTFUj8WEJww@mail.gmail.com>

The e-mail below was posted to the North Carolina MG Car Club list by
Max Fulton, of the Flying Circus English Cars in Durham, NC. To me, it
seemed to have some new information on the subject related to the
level of ZDDP to detergents in the oil. Max gave me permission to post
it to 6-Pack and the Triumph list. I am posting in 2 parts due to size
limitations.

NFI in Flying Circus. :-)

Thanks,
Larry Griffin
71 TR6


Part 2 by Max Fulton:

THE NET RESULT: Commercial oils will not suffice. They are made for
modern cars and a larger market, and subject to change. Just like you
wouldn't go into AutoPalace to get a part for your LBC, you pretty
much can't go there for your Oil now, either.

Mobil 1 used to be an oil of preference, esp. for Racing. It built up
a reputationb& then changed it's formulation for the masses. At the
moment, Valvoline VR1 is considered a "decent" oil, but the worry is
the same-- it is sold commercially, and they may change their
formulation at any time without telling in what way and by how much.
(The B-Stingers got caught out on this: we used Kendall GT1 initially,
(and Mr. Speed even used this as his example for an "excellent" old
formulae 20w-50!) Well, they got bought out, changed the formulation
without notice-- and we wiped out a camshaft!)

A "classic" oil will be formulated for old classic (flat tappet) cars.
It will NOT change it's formulation, because this IS what it is for!

There are many of these types of oils out there, but two that I know
of are Brad Penn and Joe Gibbs Racing.

As for Camshafts: Currently the only guy I know of who is selling the
highest quality camshafts (and he's having a hard time getting these
made to his specification!) is Kai Radicke at Wishbone Classics. REM:
the better the finish on the cam and lifters, the less phosphorous
required in the oil to maintain a protective film. I'm not saying
other cams do not have as good a finish-- we don't have the ability to
test them and it isn't information our suppliers have to give us. I do
know, however (as I asked Mr. Speed this directly), that Kai's cams
have the same finish on them as they use at Joe Gibbs Racing for their
NASCAR cams.  (2Ra-- often cams are found to be more like 6 - 8Ra
(coarser).)

Addendum to Camshafts: STAY AWAY from hardest lifters! Moss and others
(APT) are now boasting lifters with Rockwell ratings of 64+. This
means it's quite possible they will be HARDER than the camshaft you
run them on! Well, this is no good. The lifter, where necessary (read:
oil failures), is still supposed to be the "wear item". The OE lifters
(part # 2A13, bucket style, made by AE) had a hardness of around
54-56. These are fine.

Given what we know, the finish on the two mating surfaces is likely
more important than their actual hardness. NASCAR's lifters, for
instance, running on that super-smooth camshaft, are only a Rockwell
of 50b&.

Modern technology is leaving us behind. Support those who are trying to help
us.

From terryrs at comcast.net  Wed Mar  6 18:14:58 2013
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2013 01:14:58 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Stuck choke
In-Reply-To: <CAONC1_5ZvO86obz-R6RjC+9QF3TeFHtK3KWqYR00R8Y-rU_sCQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1177946154.280956.1362618898979.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

When we were talking about hard starting, I was advised to check my choke to see how much the jet was dropping.

It wasn't.  

It's stuck.  How do you free them?  Force them down and then apply 20 wt, litheum or some other kind of lubricant?

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

From wbeech at flash.net  Wed Mar  6 19:38:32 2013
From: wbeech at flash.net (WBEECH)
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2013 20:38:32 -0600
Subject: [TR] Stuck choke
In-Reply-To: <1177946154.280956.1362618898979.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1177946154.280956.1362618898979.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <7C664AD4-4C42-44D1-B31A-D8169D29F016@flash.net>

Take them out and shine them with some "0000" steel wool. A little light oil
will help them to go back in smoothly.

BTW, don't forget to re-center the jets as you re-assemble everything.

Sent from mobile Bill

On Mar 6, 2013, at 7:14 PM, terryrs at comcast.net wrote:

When we were talking about hard starting, I was advised to check my choke to
see how much the jet was dropping.

It wasn't.

It's stuck.  How do you free them?  Force them down and then apply 20 wt,
litheum or some other kind of lubricant?

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Thu Mar  7 08:56:43 2013
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob)
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2013 10:56:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 Custom Aluminum Fuel Tank ~15 gallons
Message-ID: <63D5A36DE5404F65B7CEF4054D8ECDD9@BobDell>

One of this year's winter projects was to design an aluminum fuel tank that 
would fit "any" TR6 and give additional capacity. Dan Masters gave me his 18 
gallon design but that required modifying the trunk to get the tank to fit. 
Another fellow designed a tank specific to his car with swirl pots and a 
custom external pump....... I modified that design to make it more generic 
to fit, hopefully, every TR6. I just updated my site 
(http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/AluminumTank.htm) with the installation of 
the first tank produced and can say that it fit up perfectly.  You can see 
everything from the building of a mock up to the final installation. Using 
math......and the internal tank dimensions, the capacity should be about 15 
gallons. I used Boyd Welding to make the tank as custom aluminum gas tanks 
are the only thing they make ranging from 1 quart to 5000 gallons.

Keep in mind that a stock sized aluminum tank form Moss is $620 and $700 
from TRF.

I have no financial interest in the sale of tanks by Boyd Welding but he was 
kind enough to agree to special pricing until March 18th.

The following are his words from an email sent to me:

As for pricing it will be $425.00 for non efi and $ 725.00 for EFI tanks 
including the Aeromotive Stealth 340.

Reference part #bs

#14020 Standard NON EFI = $ 425.00
#14021 EFI with Stealth 340= $ 725.00

Because I am considering this a group buy the pricing will only be good 
until Monday March 18th. After that the pricing will be normal prices which 
will be $ 475.00 and $775.00. The EFI tanks are only available with our 
Stealth 340 pump because of the custom cutout and flange required. An option 
for the provision without the pump will not be available. Each customer will 
need to install their own stock sending unit we will supply the 6 bolt 
flange.

We will be collecting 100.00 deposits on every order and will not start 
fabrication until after March 18th so that we can begin production. I am 
figuring 2-4 weeks to begin shipping after the Group Buy ordering window has 
expired.

Boyd Welding can be contacted at 877-270-3576 

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Mar  7 09:16:36 2013
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2013 08:16:36 -0800
Subject: [TR] Science of the "Oil Issue" Part 1
In-Reply-To: <CAONC1_5ZvO86obz-R6RjC+9QF3TeFHtK3KWqYR00R8Y-rU_sCQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <23.E3.11869.B5DB8315@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> a) It's the phosphorous in the Oil (NOT the Zinc) that forms 
> the barrier to abrasion on the surface of the lifters and camshaft.
> However, the phosphorous is carried in ZDDP-- Zinc 
> dialkyldithiophosphate--and thus why it's sometimes just 
> abbreviated as "zinc".

Sorry, but that's just silly.  Phosphorus by itself is a dangerous highly
reactive mineral that will literally burn when exposed to air.  ZDDP is a
complex organic compound with specific characteristics quite different than
either zinc or phosphorous.  Or carbon, or hydrogen, or oxygen, or sulfur;
all of which are also important parts of ZDDP.  So the important bit is the
concentration of ZDDP, not either zinc or phosphorous by itself. 

> c) Boron and Molybdenum are the anti-friction additives. 

Wrong again.  Those elements are part of the anti-friction additives, just
like zinc is part of ZDDP.  But it is the chemical that is important, not
which atoms it is made of.  Pure molybdenum would only increase friction.
The actual additive is again a complex organic molecule that includes
molybdenum or boron as one of it's elements.

Think about it, next time you sprinkle some salt on your food.  Salt is made
of chlorine and sodium, both highly toxic and dangerous elements.  But in
combination they are totally different (essential to life and so on).

> Moly, though, is the best and most expensive, but is also 
> magnetic (boron is not) Therefore, using a magnetic pickup 
> (drain plug or magnet on oil
> filter?) to trap metal particles is only rendering your oil 
> less effective!

Silly again.  Yes, metallic molybdenum is slightly magnetic.  So is sodium.
But neither salt nor the molybdenum compounds used as oil additives are
magnetic.  The familiar "dry moly" (aka molybdenum disulphide) is actually
slightly diamagnetic (meaning it gets repelled by a magnetic field).

Magnetic drain plugs are standard equipment on practically all expensive and
high-reliability engines; aircraft will typically even have a sensor that
lights a big red light when the plug gets too much magnetic crud on it.

Finally, keep in mind that this article was written by an employee of Joe
Gibbs.  You could hardly expect him to tell you that his employer sold an
inferior product ...

-- Randall 

From bkahler1 at gmail.com  Thu Mar  7 10:31:47 2013
From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2013 12:31:47 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 Custom Aluminum Fuel Tank ~15 gallons
In-Reply-To: <63D5A36DE5404F65B7CEF4054D8ECDD9@BobDell>
References: <63D5A36DE5404F65B7CEF4054D8ECDD9@BobDell>
Message-ID: <CADm3DLFNmYRpCw=+BrsQzsMHsU54=Zqq1N9ttAf_7A7htV79MQ@mail.gmail.com>

Bob, I didn't see a reference to shipping costs.  That means either
shipping is free or else it will be handled at the time of final payment.
 Considering what shipping costs are now days prospective buyers might want
to take this into consideration.

Another question that I have is will this fit a TR4?  Off the top of my
head I can't think of any reason it wouldn't fit but confirmation ahead of
time would be great.

Thanks!

Brad


On Thu, Mar 7, 2013 at 10:56 AM, Bob <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote:

> One of this year's winter projects was to design an aluminum fuel tank
> that would fit "any" TR6 and give additional capacity. Dan Masters gave me
> his 18 gallon design but that required modifying the trunk to get the tank
> to fit. Another fellow designed a tank specific to his car with swirl pots
> and a custom external pump....... I modified that design to make it more
> generic to fit, hopefully, every TR6. I just updated my site (
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.**org/AluminumTank.htm<http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/AluminumTank.htm>)
> with the installation of the first tank produced and can say that it fit up
> perfectly.  You can see everything from the building of a mock up to the
> final installation. Using math......and the internal tank dimensions, the
> capacity should be about 15 gallons. I used Boyd Welding to make the tank
> as custom aluminum gas tanks are the only thing they make ranging from 1
> quart to 5000 gallons.
>
> Keep in mind that a stock sized aluminum tank form Moss is $620 and $700
> from TRF.
>
> I have no financial interest in the sale of tanks by Boyd Welding but he
> was kind enough to agree to special pricing until March 18th.
>
> The following are his words from an email sent to me:
>
> As for pricing it will be $425.00 for non efi and $ 725.00 for EFI tanks
> including the Aeromotive Stealth 340.
>
> Reference part #b s
>
> #14020 Standard NON EFI = $ 425.00
> #14021 EFI with Stealth 340= $ 725.00
>
> Because I am considering this a group buy the pricing will only be good
> until Monday March 18th. After that the pricing will be normal prices which
> will be $ 475.00 and $775.00. The EFI tanks are only available with our
> Stealth 340 pump because of the custom cutout and flange required. An
> option for the provision without the pump will not be available. Each
> customer will need to install their own stock sending unit we will supply
> the 6 bolt flange.
>
> We will be collecting 100.00 deposits on every order and will not start
> fabrication until after March 18th so that we can begin production. I am
> figuring 2-4 weeks to begin shipping after the Group Buy ordering window
> has expired.
>
> Boyd Welding can be contacted at 877-270-3576
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/triumphs/bkahler1@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bkahler1 at gmail.com>

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Thu Mar  7 11:13:31 2013
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob)
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2013 13:13:31 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 Custom Aluminum Fuel Tank ~15 gallons
In-Reply-To: <CADm3DLFNmYRpCw=+BrsQzsMHsU54=Zqq1N9ttAf_7A7htV79MQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <63D5A36DE5404F65B7CEF4054D8ECDD9@BobDell>
	<CADm3DLFNmYRpCw=+BrsQzsMHsU54=Zqq1N9ttAf_7A7htV79MQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <AFA1F045466A4377A304962077A97477@BobDell>

Hi Brad,
Shipping costs would be dependent on where you live. Boyd Welding is in Ocala
Fl and the box weighed 28 lbs whiles measuring 36x16x16 so you could estimate
the shipping cost. But youbre saving so much over Moss/TRF that youbve
covered the shipping and more!

>From what Ibve been told it should fit a TR4 but I have no way of testing
that unless someone local with a TR4 wants to borrow my mock up tank to test
fit. So if any TR4 owners in CT are willing, Ibll loan them the mock up
tank.

Bob

Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/

1975 TR6 modified with:
-Throttle Body Injection
-Toyota 5 Speed
-Nissan Differential
-AAW Wire Harness
-CVJs... and more


From: Brad Kahler
Sent: Thursday, March 07, 2013 12:31 PM
To: Bob
Cc: Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Custom Aluminum Fuel Tank ~15 gallons

Bob, I didn't see a reference to shipping costs.  That means either shipping
is free or else it will be handled at the time of final payment.  Considering
what shipping costs are now days prospective buyers might want to take this
into consideration.

Another question that I have is will this fit a TR4?  Off the top of my head I
can't think of any reason it wouldn't fit but confirmation ahead of time would
be great.

Thanks!

Brad



On Thu, Mar 7, 2013 at 10:56 AM, Bob <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote:

  One of this year's winter projects was to design an aluminum fuel tank that
would fit "any" TR6 and give additional capacity. Dan Masters gave me his 18
gallon design but that required modifying the trunk to get the tank to fit.
Another fellow designed a tank specific to his car with swirl pots and a
custom external pump....... I modified that design to make it more generic to
fit, hopefully, every TR6. I just updated my site
(http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/AluminumTank.htm) with the installation of the
first tank produced and can say that it fit up perfectly.  You can see
everything from the building of a mock up to the final installation. Using
math......and the internal tank dimensions, the capacity should be about 15
gallons. I used Boyd Welding to make the tank as custom aluminum gas tanks are
the only thing they make ranging from 1 quart to 5000 gallons.

  Keep in mind that a stock sized aluminum tank form Moss is $620 and $700
from TRF.

  I have no financial interest in the sale of tanks by Boyd Welding but he was
kind enough to agree to special pricing until March 18th.

  The following are his words from an email sent to me:

  As for pricing it will be $425.00 for non efi and $ 725.00 for EFI tanks
including the Aeromotive Stealth 340.

  Reference part #b s

  #14020 Standard NON EFI = $ 425.00
  #14021 EFI with Stealth 340= $ 725.00

  Because I am considering this a group buy the pricing will only be good
until Monday March 18th. After that the pricing will be normal prices which
will be $ 475.00 and $775.00. The EFI tanks are only available with our
Stealth 340 pump because of the custom cutout and flange required. An option
for the provision without the pump will not be available. Each customer will
need to install their own stock sending unit we will supply the 6 bolt
flange.

  We will be collecting 100.00 deposits on every order and will not start
fabrication until after March 18th so that we can begin production. I am
figuring 2-4 weeks to begin shipping after the Group Buy ordering window has
expired.

  Boyd Welding can be contacted at 877-270-3576
  ** triumphs at autox.team.net **

  Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
  Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
  Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
  Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bkahler1 at gmail.com

From larrygriffin.nc at gmail.com  Thu Mar  7 13:08:28 2013
From: larrygriffin.nc at gmail.com (Larry Griffin)
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2013 15:08:28 -0500
Subject: [TR] Science of the "Oil Issue" Part 1
In-Reply-To: <23.E3.11869.B5DB8315@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
References: <CAONC1_5ZvO86obz-R6RjC+9QF3TeFHtK3KWqYR00R8Y-rU_sCQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<23.E3.11869.B5DB8315@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <CAONC1_7fhOMUbfamgrJpnWEOtW9OdZ_rQpTsQXngKjKpOZvfuw@mail.gmail.com>

Randall,

Thank you for correcting the errors in the e-mail that I forwarded. I
suppose I was too trusting in passing on the information, and
certainly should not have retained that subject line based upon your
comments. :-(

Hope my posts do not lead anyone astray. I was most interested in the
idea of the possible interaction of the ZDDP and detergent levels. But
I guess that doesn't make much sense either, does it?

Thanks,
Larry


On Thu, Mar 7, 2013 at 11:16 AM, Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
>> a) It's the phosphorous in the Oil (NOT the Zinc) that forms
>> the barrier to abrasion on the surface of the lifters and camshaft.
>> However, the phosphorous is carried in ZDDP-- Zinc
>> dialkyldithiophosphate--and thus why it's sometimes just
>> abbreviated as "zinc".
>
> Sorry, but that's just silly.  Phosphorus by itself is a dangerous highly
> reactive mineral that will literally burn when exposed to air.  ZDDP is a
> complex organic compound with specific characteristics quite different than
> either zinc or phosphorous.  Or carbon, or hydrogen, or oxygen, or sulfur;
> all of which are also important parts of ZDDP.  So the important bit is the
> concentration of ZDDP, not either zinc or phosphorous by itself.
>
>> c) Boron and Molybdenum are the anti-friction additives.
>
> Wrong again.  Those elements are part of the anti-friction additives, just
> like zinc is part of ZDDP.  But it is the chemical that is important, not
> which atoms it is made of.  Pure molybdenum would only increase friction.
> The actual additive is again a complex organic molecule that includes
> molybdenum or boron as one of it's elements.
>
> Think about it, next time you sprinkle some salt on your food.  Salt is made
> of chlorine and sodium, both highly toxic and dangerous elements.  But in
> combination they are totally different (essential to life and so on).
>
>> Moly, though, is the best and most expensive, but is also
>> magnetic (boron is not) Therefore, using a magnetic pickup
>> (drain plug or magnet on oil
>> filter?) to trap metal particles is only rendering your oil
>> less effective!
>
> Silly again.  Yes, metallic molybdenum is slightly magnetic.  So is sodium.
> But neither salt nor the molybdenum compounds used as oil additives are
> magnetic.  The familiar "dry moly" (aka molybdenum disulphide) is actually
> slightly diamagnetic (meaning it gets repelled by a magnetic field).
>
> Magnetic drain plugs are standard equipment on practically all expensive and
> high-reliability engines; aircraft will typically even have a sensor that
> lights a big red light when the plug gets too much magnetic crud on it.
>
> Finally, keep in mind that this article was written by an employee of Joe
> Gibbs.  You could hardly expect him to tell you that his employer sold an
> inferior product ...
>
> -- Randall
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/larrygriffin.nc at gmail.com

From eoot at citlink.net  Thu Mar  7 13:43:23 2013
From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot)
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2013 15:43:23 -0500
Subject: [TR] When to rebuild
Message-ID: <004701ce1b74$69fba9a0$3df2fce0$@citlink.net>

Curious about the opinions of the list on this.  Question is in regard to
TR3, but I suppose is applicable to any LBC.  When, if ever. Is a rear main
oil leak significant enough to warrant a rebuild.  I don't know for positive
but I do not believe this motor has been rebuilt in the last 15 years (or
so).  However, the car runs strong, does not burn oil, has great oil
pressure and compression, and would seem to have no other reason to rebuild
other than the leak.  I have not tried to measure the amount of oil that
leaks out after good run, but we are not talking drips.  I would call it
more of small puddle.  At one time I thought that it may have been the oil
pan, but I have had that off 3 times and have re-installed per all the
direction from the list, so I don't believe that is a factor.  I do believe
there is a leak from the front sealing block , but doesn't appear to be the
major culprit. Seems a shame to rebuild a perfectly good running motor.
But????

 

Thanks

Ed

From edwd at ti.com  Thu Mar  7 13:50:00 2013
From: edwd at ti.com (Fisher, Ed)
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2013 20:50:00 +0000
Subject: [TR] oil science and break-in question
Message-ID: <67A276399E247245AC2050FC103C4E8A3ED6C119@DLEE20.ent.ti.com>

I have a question, and I will lob it out there for any and all to answer.
Once I have broken in my flat tappet cam with the proper break-in oil, can my
film of lubricity then be washed away if I use modern oils after that?

Thanks,

Ed Fisher
Dallas, Tx

From darrellw360 at mac.com  Thu Mar  7 14:04:31 2013
From: darrellw360 at mac.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2013 13:04:31 -0800
Subject: [TR] When to rebuild
In-Reply-To: <004701ce1b74$69fba9a0$3df2fce0$@citlink.net>
References: <004701ce1b74$69fba9a0$3df2fce0$@citlink.net>
Message-ID: <5217A263-0BDA-4B70-AE26-EB7BE2C14DBA@mac.com>

Hi Ed,

My opinion, when it annoys you enough to pull the engine.  Or if it was
leaking bad enough to cause other problems, or causing your oil level to drop
between checksl to potentially damage the engine.

Other than that, it really shouldn't be a problem, so you need to make the
decision about living with it.

-Darrell

On Mar 7, 2013, at 12:43 PM, Ed Oot <eoot at citlink.net> wrote:

> Curious about the opinions of the list on this.  Question is in regard to
> TR3, but I suppose is applicable to any LBC.  When, if ever. Is a rear main
> oil leak significant enough to warrant a rebuild.  I don't know for
positive
> but I do not believe this motor has been rebuilt in the last 15 years (or
> so).  However, the car runs strong, does not burn oil, has great oil
> pressure and compression, and would seem to have no other reason to rebuild
> other than the leak.  I have not tried to measure the amount of oil that
> leaks out after good run, but we are not talking drips.  I would call it
> more of small puddle.  At one time I thought that it may have been the oil
> pan, but I have had that off 3 times and have re-installed per all the
> direction from the list, so I don't believe that is a factor.  I do believe
> there is a leak from the front sealing block , but doesn't appear to be the
> major culprit. Seems a shame to rebuild a perfectly good running motor.
> But????
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Ed
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/darrellw360 at mac.com

From terryrs at comcast.net  Thu Mar  7 16:10:13 2013
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2013 23:10:13 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] When to rebuild
In-Reply-To: <004701ce1b74$69fba9a0$3df2fce0$@citlink.net>
Message-ID: <408095090.322594.1362697813575.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>When, if ever. Is a rear main
>oil leak significant enough to warrant a rebuild.  

I've rebuilt mine twice because I had to.  Each time, I've not managed to control the oil from leaking, despite going to the new real oil seals.  

Then again, I insist on using Mobil 1 15-50 synthetic, and I expect Mobil builds into the DNA of that oil the intrinsic nature to seek my garage floor.  

Not sure what you're running, but syn may exacerbate the problem....

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A  TS 58667
New Hampshire

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Mar  7 17:10:52 2013
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2013 0:10:52 +0000
Subject: [TR] When to rebuild
In-Reply-To: <408095090.322594.1362697813575.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20130308001052.G6Z61.34616.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>

> Not sure what you're running, but syn may exacerbate the problem....

As a side comment, oil consumption on my "hauler" (old Buick station wagon, Chevy 350 motor) went up sharply when I tried Mobil 1 in it.  (Someone gave me a case of it, so I had to try it.)  But when I went back to Valvoline full synthetic, the oil consumption went back down.  Valvoline SynPower also reduced consumption in my previous hauler with a Chevy 2.8 V6.

It's not "synthetic" that is the problem IMO, it is "Mobil 1".

Alas, SynPower has never reduced consumption in my Triumphs.  But it hasn't increased it either.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Mar  7 17:19:34 2013
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2013 0:19:34 +0000
Subject: [TR] oil science and break-in question
In-Reply-To: <67A276399E247245AC2050FC103C4E8A3ED6C119@DLEE20.ent.ti.com>
Message-ID: <20130308001934.THK49.34666.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>

---- "Fisher wrote: 
> I have a question, and I will lob it out there for any and all to answer.
> Once I have broken in my flat tappet cam with the proper break-in oil, can my
> film of lubricity then be washed away if I use modern oils after that?

Assuming you mean the microscopic film from ZDDP, then I believe the answer is yes.  As I understand it, when the film of regular oil breaks down and allows metal-to-metal contact, the film left by the ZDDP acts as a dry lubricant but eventually gets rubbed away and then grows back if there is enough ZDDP in the oil so it can be rubbed away next time.

Whether that ever happens in a stock TR motor is a different question.  I remain unconvinced, especially since I covered several hundred thousand miles with "low zinc" oil in a TR3 motor.  Unfortunately, that engine already had significant cam wear when it came to me (as shown by measured lift being low), so tearing it down wouldn't prove much of anything.

- Randall

From hdrider570 at att.net  Thu Mar  7 17:22:42 2013
From: hdrider570 at att.net (Q)
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2013 16:22:42 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TR6 Custom Aluminum Fuel Tank ~15 gallons
Message-ID: <1362702162.70539.YahooMailClassic@web184302.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

I can tell you that a stock TR6 tank fits into a TR4 with no problems.  The only difference I could see between the two was that the TR4 tank has a banjo type vent outlet on the top right corner.  The TR6 has nothing there if if remember correctly.

Edward Hamer
Petaluma CA

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Mar  7 17:26:05 2013
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2013 0:26:05 +0000
Subject: [TR] When to rebuild
In-Reply-To: <004701ce1b74$69fba9a0$3df2fce0$@citlink.net>
Message-ID: <20130308002605.H8NOA.34697.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>

---- Ed Oot <eoot at citlink.net> wrote: 
> Curious about the opinions of the list on this.  Question is in regard to
> TR3, but I suppose is applicable to any LBC.  When, if ever. Is a rear main
> oil leak significant enough to warrant a rebuild.  

My approach is to match the costs of dealing with the leak, against the cost of fixing it.  That includes not just the oil and the cleanup, but the hassle of adding more periodically and the embarrassment of a car that "Marks it's spot" like a poorly trained dog.

At some point, maybe the leak would bug me enough to tear the motor down, but it hasn't happened yet.  Most of my current oil spot seems to be under the road draft tube though, the original rear main seal seems to be holding better than the one my previous TR3A did.

- Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Mar  7 17:35:50 2013
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2013 0:35:50 +0000
Subject: [TR] Science of the "Oil Issue" Part 1
In-Reply-To: <CAONC1_7fhOMUbfamgrJpnWEOtW9OdZ_rQpTsQXngKjKpOZvfuw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20130308003551.4USQ5.34744.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>

---- Larry Griffin <larrygriffin.nc at gmail.com> wrote: 

> Hope my posts do not lead anyone astray. I was most interested in the
> idea of the possible interaction of the ZDDP and detergent levels. But
> I guess that doesn't make much sense either, does it?

Actually, I believe that part does make sense.  Perhaps not exactly in those terms, but there is no doubt that various additives can interfere with each other's operation.  The literature is full of "This seemed to work by itself but didn't work when we combined it with that." stories.  The oil manufacturers put a lot of work into finding just the right amount of each additive, it is an engineering specialty all unto itself.  

And as I think has been pointed out before, even too much ZDDP can lead to problems.  That is why I think it makes far more sense to buy an oil already formulated to whatever your specifications are, than try to "improve" any old oil by dumping your own additives into it.

Randall

From jeremiah at curryclan.net  Thu Mar  7 21:25:22 2013
From: jeremiah at curryclan.net (Jeremiah Curry)
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2013 21:25:22 -0700
Subject: [TR] When to rebuild
Message-ID: <0Lllto-1Un9gu3rqi-00Zoef@mrelay.perfora.net>

I have never had a consumption problem with mobile 1 on turbocharged Audis or
my mr2 turbo...but thy probably have much tighter tolerances than American
engines.  No offence intended by that comment, just my understanding

-----Original Message-----
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
Sent: b3/b7/b2013 5:11 PM
Cc: "Triumphs at autox.team.net" <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] When to rebuild

> Not sure what you're running, but syn may exacerbate the problem....

As a side comment, oil consumption on my "hauler" (old Buick station wagon,
Chevy 350 motor) went up sharply when I tried Mobil 1 in it.  (Someone gave me
a case of it, so I had to try it.)  But when I went back to Valvoline full
synthetic, the oil consumption went back down.  Valvoline SynPower also
reduced consumption in my previous hauler with a Chevy 2.8 V6.

It's not "synthetic" that is the problem IMO, it is "Mobil 1".

Alas, SynPower has never reduced consumption in my Triumphs.  But it hasn't
increased it either.

Randall

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jeremiah at curryclan.net

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Mar  7 22:56:57 2013
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2013 21:56:57 -0800
Subject: [TR] When to rebuild
In-Reply-To: <0Lllto-1Un9gu3rqi-00Zoef@mrelay.perfora.net>
Message-ID: <9B.43.25887.F9D79315@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> I have never had a consumption problem with mobile 1 on 
> turbocharged Audis or my mr2 turbo...but thy probably have 
> much tighter tolerances than American engines.  No offence 
> intended by that comment, just my understanding

None taken.  I'm also guessing that your cars haven't covered 1/4 million
miles each <g>  But I suspect it has more to do with the effects of the
additives on old seals than engine tolerances.

-- Randall 

From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Fri Mar  8 01:29:54 2013
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2013 08:29:54 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] 3/8/2013 9:29:52 AM
Message-ID: <1362731394.70059.YahooMailNeo@web171402.mail.ir2.yahoo.com>

http://www.reformasostenible.com/cybabv/ydhvd/jmoshxpprlfoc/who/lap  



 John
Macartney 


3/8/2013 9:29:52 AM

From bkahler1 at gmail.com  Thu Mar  7 12:26:22 2013
From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2013 14:26:22 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 Custom Aluminum Fuel Tank ~15 gallons
In-Reply-To: <AFA1F045466A4377A304962077A97477@BobDell>
References: <63D5A36DE5404F65B7CEF4054D8ECDD9@BobDell>
	<CADm3DLFNmYRpCw=+BrsQzsMHsU54=Zqq1N9ttAf_7A7htV79MQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<AFA1F045466A4377A304962077A97477@BobDell>
Message-ID: <CADm3DLEXA2b7=KwE2_32DiaZb_HCjc9_fOmixz_kMkB-zUy=kQ@mail.gmail.com>

Bob,

Using the dimensions you provided and 28 lbs (UPS used dimensional weight
of 56 lbs) and an insured value of $500 the cost of shipping for me would
be about $41.   So what it amounts to is if I pre-order (early bird
special!) then I save shipping costs.  Otherwise for me it would run about
$525 after March 18th.

I'm not really in need of a tank but having 5 extra gallons sure would be
nice so I'm seriously thinking about this :)  Where I live in Kentucky once
you get out in the mountains and the backwoods, finding a gas station can
be problematic.

I don't imagine it would be likely that someone local to you in Connecticut
will be able to test fit before March 18th.  I need to see if I have a TR6
tank sitting on the shelf.

Thanks!

Brad



On Thu, Mar 7, 2013 at 1:13 PM, Bob <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote:

>   Hi Brad,
> Shipping costs would be dependent on where you live. Boyd Welding is in
> Ocala Fl and the box weighed 28 lbs whiles measuring 36x16x16 so you could
> estimate the shipping cost. But youre saving so much over Moss/TRF that
> youve covered the shipping and more!
>
> From what Ive been told it should fit a TR4 but I have no way of testing
> that unless someone local with a TR4 wants to borrow my mock up tank to
> test fit. So if any TR4 owners in CT are willing, Ill loan them the mock
> up tank.
>
> Bob
>
> Bob Danielson
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/
>
> 1975 TR6 modified with:
> -Throttle Body Injection
> -Toyota 5 Speed
> -Nissan Differential
> -AAW Wire Harness
> -CVJs... and more
>
>  *From:* Brad Kahler <bkahler1 at gmail.com>
> *Sent:* Thursday, March 07, 2013 12:31 PM
> *To:* Bob <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
> *Cc:* Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [TR] TR6 Custom Aluminum Fuel Tank ~15 gallons
>
>  Bob, I didn't see a reference to shipping costs.  That means either
> shipping is free or else it will be handled at the time of final payment.
> Considering what shipping costs are now days prospective buyers might want
> to take this into consideration.
>
> Another question that I have is will this fit a TR4?  Off the top of my
> head I can't think of any reason it wouldn't fit but confirmation ahead of
> time would be great.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Brad
>
>
> On Thu, Mar 7, 2013 at 10:56 AM, Bob <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>wrote:
>
>> One of this year's winter projects was to design an aluminum fuel tank
>> that would fit "any" TR6 and give additional capacity. Dan Masters gave me
>> his 18 gallon design but that required modifying the trunk to get the tank
>> to fit. Another fellow designed a tank specific to his car with swirl pots
>> and a custom external pump....... I modified that design to make it more
>> generic to fit, hopefully, every TR6. I just updated my site (
>>
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.**org/AluminumTank.htm<http://tr6.danielsonfamily.
org/AluminumTank.htm>)
>> with the installation of the first tank produced and can say that it fit
up
>> perfectly.  You can see everything from the building of a mock up to the
>> final installation. Using math......and the internal tank dimensions, the
>> capacity should be about 15 gallons. I used Boyd Welding to make the tank
>> as custom aluminum gas tanks are the only thing they make ranging from 1
>> quart to 5000 gallons.
>>
>> Keep in mind that a stock sized aluminum tank form Moss is $620 and $700
>> from TRF.
>>
>> I have no financial interest in the sale of tanks by Boyd Welding but he
>> was kind enough to agree to special pricing until March 18th.
>>
>> The following are his words from an email sent to me:
>>
>> As for pricing it will be $425.00 for non efi and $ 725.00 for EFI tanks
>> including the Aeromotive Stealth 340.
>>
>> Reference part #b s
>>
>> #14020 Standard NON EFI = $ 425.00
>> #14021 EFI with Stealth 340= $ 725.00
>>
>> Because I am considering this a group buy the pricing will only be good
>> until Monday March 18th. After that the pricing will be normal prices
which
>> will be $ 475.00 and $775.00. The EFI tanks are only available with our
>> Stealth 340 pump because of the custom cutout and flange required. An
>> option for the provision without the pump will not be available. Each
>> customer will need to install their own stock sending unit we will supply
>> the 6 bolt flange.
>>
>> We will be collecting 100.00 deposits on every order and will not start
>> fabrication until after March 18th so that we can begin production. I am
>> figuring 2-4 weeks to begin shipping after the Group Buy ordering window
>> has expired.
>>
>> Boyd Welding can be contacted at 877-270-3576
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
>>
options/triumphs/bkahler1@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/t
riumphs/bkahler1 at gmail.com>

From bkahler1 at gmail.com  Thu Mar  7 12:27:08 2013
From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2013 14:27:08 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 Custom Aluminum Fuel Tank ~15 gallons
In-Reply-To: <AFA1F045466A4377A304962077A97477@BobDell>
References: <63D5A36DE5404F65B7CEF4054D8ECDD9@BobDell>
	<CADm3DLFNmYRpCw=+BrsQzsMHsU54=Zqq1N9ttAf_7A7htV79MQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<AFA1F045466A4377A304962077A97477@BobDell>
Message-ID: <CADm3DLEm4HUJK3A1N38sfgkN0cSL-bJ90K+JBqsArrJzKTSs_w@mail.gmail.com>

Forgot to ask, do you have photos of your mock up that I could compare to
the tanks that I do have?

Thanks!

Brad


On Thu, Mar 7, 2013 at 1:13 PM, Bob <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote:

>   Hi Brad,
> Shipping costs would be dependent on where you live. Boyd Welding is in
> Ocala Fl and the box weighed 28 lbs whiles measuring 36x16x16 so you could
> estimate the shipping cost. But youre saving so much over Moss/TRF that
> youve covered the shipping and more!
>
> From what Ive been told it should fit a TR4 but I have no way of testing
> that unless someone local with a TR4 wants to borrow my mock up tank to
> test fit. So if any TR4 owners in CT are willing, Ill loan them the mock
> up tank.
>
> Bob
>
> Bob Danielson
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/
>
> 1975 TR6 modified with:
> -Throttle Body Injection
> -Toyota 5 Speed
> -Nissan Differential
> -AAW Wire Harness
> -CVJs... and more
>
>  *From:* Brad Kahler <bkahler1 at gmail.com>
> *Sent:* Thursday, March 07, 2013 12:31 PM
> *To:* Bob <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
> *Cc:* Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [TR] TR6 Custom Aluminum Fuel Tank ~15 gallons
>
>  Bob, I didn't see a reference to shipping costs.  That means either
> shipping is free or else it will be handled at the time of final payment.
> Considering what shipping costs are now days prospective buyers might want
> to take this into consideration.
>
> Another question that I have is will this fit a TR4?  Off the top of my
> head I can't think of any reason it wouldn't fit but confirmation ahead of
> time would be great.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Brad
>
>
> On Thu, Mar 7, 2013 at 10:56 AM, Bob <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>wrote:
>
>> One of this year's winter projects was to design an aluminum fuel tank
>> that would fit "any" TR6 and give additional capacity. Dan Masters gave me
>> his 18 gallon design but that required modifying the trunk to get the tank
>> to fit. Another fellow designed a tank specific to his car with swirl pots
>> and a custom external pump....... I modified that design to make it more
>> generic to fit, hopefully, every TR6. I just updated my site (
>>
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.**org/AluminumTank.htm<http://tr6.danielsonfamily.
org/AluminumTank.htm>)
>> with the installation of the first tank produced and can say that it fit
up
>> perfectly.  You can see everything from the building of a mock up to the
>> final installation. Using math......and the internal tank dimensions, the
>> capacity should be about 15 gallons. I used Boyd Welding to make the tank
>> as custom aluminum gas tanks are the only thing they make ranging from 1
>> quart to 5000 gallons.
>>
>> Keep in mind that a stock sized aluminum tank form Moss is $620 and $700
>> from TRF.
>>
>> I have no financial interest in the sale of tanks by Boyd Welding but he
>> was kind enough to agree to special pricing until March 18th.
>>
>> The following are his words from an email sent to me:
>>
>> As for pricing it will be $425.00 for non efi and $ 725.00 for EFI tanks
>> including the Aeromotive Stealth 340.
>>
>> Reference part #b s
>>
>> #14020 Standard NON EFI = $ 425.00
>> #14021 EFI with Stealth 340= $ 725.00
>>
>> Because I am considering this a group buy the pricing will only be good
>> until Monday March 18th. After that the pricing will be normal prices
which
>> will be $ 475.00 and $775.00. The EFI tanks are only available with our
>> Stealth 340 pump because of the custom cutout and flange required. An
>> option for the provision without the pump will not be available. Each
>> customer will need to install their own stock sending unit we will supply
>> the 6 bolt flange.
>>
>> We will be collecting 100.00 deposits on every order and will not start
>> fabrication until after March 18th so that we can begin production. I am
>> figuring 2-4 weeks to begin shipping after the Group Buy ordering window
>> has expired.
>>
>> Boyd Welding can be contacted at 877-270-3576
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
>>
options/triumphs/bkahler1@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/t
riumphs/bkahler1 at gmail.com>

From emanteno at comcast.net  Wed Mar  6 12:55:13 2013
From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey)
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2013 13:55:13 -0600
Subject: [TR] 6 cylinder Engine Upgrades
In-Reply-To: <3E01AB44950349499AEBB0AFF0342A21@livingroompc>
References: <3E01AB44950349499AEBB0AFF0342A21@livingroompc>
Message-ID: <CAFWFMyitp_Vd68ScfHNzsJkarSCPnW5Y=FaVXf40AN6mKSTOTA@mail.gmail.com>

On Tue, Mar 5, 2013 at 9:18 PM, Greg Lemon <glemon at neb.rr.com> wrote:

> There is a nice article on the VTR website by some guy named Mark Bradakis
> (!?!) http://www.vtr.org/maintain/engine-mods-TR6.shtml
> About 6 cylinder engine upgrades, it seems to indicate that more detailed
> articles are to follow, but I can't find them on the VTR site, anybody
> have a
> clue as to whether these articles are available somewhere, looked like
> potentially good stuff.
>

If you are a member of 6-Pack, there have been a number of engine upgrade
articles in the Magazine over the years. Many of the older magazines have
been scanned
and are available in the Members Only section of the 6-Pack website.

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Mon Mar  4 21:21:09 2013
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2013 22:21:09 -0600
Subject: [TR] Shameless plug and thanks!
In-Reply-To: <894814762C6AC84896B8CC3C72CDD2BB01950FAE@SOTSERVER.stevethorntonlaw.local>
References: <894814762C6AC84896B8CC3C72CDD2BB01950FAE@SOTSERVER.stevethorntonlaw.local>
Message-ID: <D4FEF330D5B54EF58E06F8C97916AD8F@livingroompc>

Steve sorry to hear of the sale of the TR250, I took a look on e-bay, very 
nice car, and well presented.  I know its not easy, made the hard decision 
to sell my Healey 100 about 6 years ago, but did end up getting a TR250 to 
restore a couple years later.

Since it looks like you have had a couple of TR250s I do have a question 
about the Ratco frame, assuming you have driven a TR250 with both stock and 
the Ratco frame, is there is discernable difference? is the Ratco equipped 
car a little more rigid?

Have thought about doing the upgrade, I know the best time would have been 
before the restoration, but never too late.

Thanks, Greg Lemon
TR250

--------------------------------------------------

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Wed Mar  6 17:49:10 2013
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Wed, 6 Mar 2013 18:49:10 -0600
Subject: [TR] 6 cylinder Engine Upgrades
In-Reply-To: <51379A62.7020706@bradakis.com>
References: <3E01AB44950349499AEBB0AFF0342A21@livingroompc>
	<51379A62.7020706@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <8DE782C3C6CC4AB49E46224BC3F36F10@livingroompc>

Thanks Mark, I was poking around all over the place looking at specs on head 
modifications and headers and maybe even cams, your "project" looked pretty 
ambitious, there is almost too much stuff out there on the TR 6 cylinder, 
lots of choice and in some case somewhat conflicting information.

regards, Greg Lemon
TR250

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Mark J Bradakis" <mark at bradakis.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 6, 2013 1:34 PM
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>; <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] 6 cylinder Engine Upgrades

> Greg Lemon wrote:
>> There is a nice article on the VTR website by some guy named Mark 
>> Bradakis
>> (!?!) http://www.vtr.org/maintain/engine-mods-TR6.shtml
>> About 6 cylinder engine upgrades, it seems to indicate that more detailed
>> articles are to follow, but I can't find them on the VTR site, anybody 
>> have a
>> clue as to whether these articles are available somewhere, looked like
>> potentially good stuff.
>>
> I never did get around to doing any more, sorry.
>
> mjb.
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/glemon at neb.rr.com

From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk  Thu Mar  7 10:11:32 2013
From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2013 17:11:32 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] Science of the "Oil Issue" Part 2
References: <CAONC1_6DOaAuJULTrWyiFg_zimrmZOj_bkPNzTURTFUj8WEJww@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1362676292.38716.YahooMailNeo@web171905.mail.ir2.yahoo.com>

I can't comment on the technical aspects of Larry Griffin's copied treatise
because I'm not a chemist and I don't claim to know much about modern
lubricants. I just feel sorry for you guys who appear to be finding themselves
"stuffed" with whatever the oil companies feel you ought to buy. Here in the
UK we haven't had anything of the ZDDP issues although companies such as
Castrol and Duckhams are still blending oils which they claim are suitable and
designed for engines of "our period." That said - and with absolutely NFI,
especially as I don't own a 'classic' any more, many of my friends here are
using an oil called "Golden Film" which is made in the UK by a firm called
Morris Lubricants. These people go back to the 1860's and much of their
business is blending base stock for many 'out of date' types of machinery -
e.g steam engines, old trucks, you name it. A quick search of the 'net reveals
they have a US importer whose details appear below.
 Someone might want to give Classic or May a call?
FWIW Morris's main website
is at www.morrislubricants.co.uk/

Jonmac
Classic Oil Supply
3023 W.Marshall
Street, Richmond, Virginia, 23230, USA
Tel: (804) 261-4140
classicoilsupply at aol.com Mike May's Auto Shed
8369 North Gills Pier Road,
Northport, Michigan, 49670, USA
Tel: 231-386-5049 or 231-386-7213
mkmay at alldial.net, website:
 steamcylinderoil.com

John
http://standard-triumph-books.co.uk


>________________________________
>
From: Larry Griffin <larrygriffin.nc at gmail.com>
>To: 6pack at autox.team.net
>Cc: Triumphs at autox.team.net 
>Sent: Thursday, 7 March 2013, 0:44
>Subject:
[TR] Science of the "Oil Issue" Part 2
>  
>The e-mail below was posted to the
North Carolina MG Car Club list by
>Max Fulton, of the Flying Circus English
Cars in Durham, NC. To me, it
>seemed to have some new information on the
subject related to the
>level of ZDDP to detergents in the oil. Max gave me
permission to post
>it to 6-Pack and the Triumph list. I am posting in 2 parts
due to size
>limitations.
>
>NFI in Flying Circus. :-)
>
>Thanks,
>Larry
Griffin
>71 TR6
>
>
>Part 2 by Max Fulton:
>
>THE NET RESULT: Commercial oils
will
 not suffice. They are made for
>modern cars and a larger market, and
subject to change. Just like you
>wouldn't go into AutoPalace to get a part
for your LBC, you pretty
>much can't go there for your Oil now, either.
>
>Mobil 1 used to be an oil of preference, esp. for Racing. It built up
>a
reputationb& then changed it's formulation for the masses. At the
>moment,
Valvoline VR1 is considered a "decent" oil, but the worry is
>the same-- it is
sold commercially, and they may change their
>formulation at any time without
telling in what way and by how much.
>(The B-Stingers got caught out on this:
we used Kendall GT1 initially,
>(and Mr. Speed even used this as his example
for an "excellent" old
>formulae 20w-50!) Well, they got bought out, changed
the formulation
>without notice-- and we wiped out a camshaft!)
>
>A "classic"
oil will be formulated for old classic (flat tappet) cars.
>It will NOT change
it's
 formulation, because this IS what it is for!
>
>There are many of these
types of oils out there, but two that I know
>of are Brad Penn and Joe Gibbs
Racing.
>
>As for Camshafts: Currently the only guy I know of who is selling
the
>highest quality camshafts (and he's having a hard time getting these
>made to his specification!) is Kai Radicke at Wishbone Classics. REM:
>the
better the finish on the cam and lifters, the less phosphorous
>required in
the oil to maintain a protective film. I'm not saying
>other cams do not have
as good a finish-- we don't have the ability to
>test them and it isn't
information our suppliers have to give us. I do
>know, however (as I asked Mr.
Speed this directly), that Kai's cams
>have the same finish on them as they
use at Joe Gibbs Racing for their
>NASCAR cams.  (2Ra-- often cams are found
to be more like 6 - 8Ra
>(coarser).)
>
>Addendum to Camshafts: STAY AWAY from
hardest lifters!
 Moss and others
>(APT) are now boasting lifters with
Rockwell ratings of 64+. This
>means it's quite possible they will be HARDER
than the camshaft you
>run them on! Well, this is no good. The lifter, where
necessary (read:
>oil failures), is still supposed to be the "wear item". The
OE lifters
>(part # 2A13, bucket style, made by AE) had a hardness of around
>54-56. These are fine.
>
>Given what we know, the finish on the two mating
surfaces is likely
>more important than their actual hardness. NASCAR's
lifters, for
>instance, running on that super-smooth camshaft, are only a
Rockwell
>of 50b&.
>
>Modern technology is leaving us behind. Support those
who are trying to help
>us.
>
>** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
>Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From sothornton at aol.com  Mon Mar  4 11:32:14 2013
From: sothornton at aol.com (Steve Thornton)
Date: Mon, 4 Mar 2013 13:32:14 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] Shameless plug and thanks
Message-ID: <8CFE71DB9A1967E-17F8-B78C7@webmail-d140.sysops.aol.com>

Hello list-



After almost 3 decades of TR ownership, I find myself in a position of
downsizing, which includes vehicles. While I have enjoyed many great TR's, I
am down to one- a TR250. I listed it today on Ebay.

I have owned a TR2, a TR3B, a TR4, two TR250's and a TR6. Two of them have won
national concours awards, which I cherish. I have also owned assorted Jaguars
and of course, the obligatory MGB many years ago. Heck, I even owned a Fiat
850 in high school!

However, I have made many friends through this list and cannot thank Mark
enough for his contribution to our hobby. His influence cannot be mentioned
enough. It is hard to part with my last TR without thinking of Fred Thomas.
What a guy and he is missed by many, including me. Without this forum his
knowledge would not have been spread nearly as wide, or far.

I will miss seeing many of you and I may perhaps return someday to LBC
ownership, who knows.

Until then,....


Steven O. Thornton
1011 Lehman Avenue
Suite 102
Bowling Green, KY   42103


270-781-6630

From tony at tonydrews.com  Thu Mar  7 21:20:05 2013
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2013 22:20:05 -0600
Subject: [TR] oil science and break-in question
In-Reply-To: <20130308001934.THK49.34666.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>
References: <67A276399E247245AC2050FC103C4E8A3ED6C119@DLEE20.ent.ti.com>
	<20130308001934.THK49.34666.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>
Message-ID: <mailman.0.1362733943.7389.triumphs@autox.team.net>

I'd tend to continue to use oils with a higher ZDDP level than the 
run of the mill oil.  There are some varieties that aren't terribly 
expensive.  Valvoline makes a few (like the VR-1 line), I think 
Castrol has seen the light on one or two of its oils too.

Part of the equation is how much force is being placed on the tappet 
- having heavy valve springs and a high lift cam certainly can 
increase the forces and make the engine more sensitive to this, but 
the forces placed on the tappet are kind of one of those black art 
things.  A low lift cam with improper ramps can cause all sorts of 
interesting / bad forces.

Just using high ZDDP for break-in doesn't protect the cam and tappets 
for life.  But the break-in period (especially the first 20 minutes 
after the rebuild) are very key to getting the cam and tappets happy 
with each other.

Tony Drews

At 06:19 PM 3/7/2013, Randall wrote:
>---- "Fisher wrote:
> > I have a question, and I will lob it out there for any and all to answer.
> > Once I have broken in my flat tappet cam with the proper break-in 
> oil, can my
> > film of lubricity then be washed away if I use modern oils after that?
>
>Assuming you mean the microscopic film from ZDDP, then I believe the 
>answer is yes.  As I understand it, when the film of regular oil 
>breaks down and allows metal-to-metal contact, the film left by the 
>ZDDP acts as a dry lubricant but eventually gets rubbed away and 
>then grows back if there is enough ZDDP in the oil so it can be 
>rubbed away next time.
>
>Whether that ever happens in a stock TR motor is a different 
>question.  I remain unconvinced, especially since I covered several 
>hundred thousand miles with "low zinc" oil in a TR3 
>motor.  Unfortunately, that engine already had significant cam wear 
>when it came to me (as shown by measured lift being low), so tearing 
>it down wouldn't prove much of anything.
>
>- Randall
>
>** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com

From edwd at ti.com  Fri Mar  8 05:30:43 2013
From: edwd at ti.com (Fisher, Ed)
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2013 12:30:43 +0000
Subject: [TR] oil.  To zddp or not to zddp, that is the question
Message-ID: <67A276399E247245AC2050FC103C4E8A3ED6C5EA@DLEE20.ent.ti.com>

Thanks to one and all for the replies to my question.  I appreciate the time
taken.  The consensus seems to be that sticking with an oil that has, at least
some ZDDP, even after the break-in period is a smart thing to do-and can't
hurt.

Ed
Dallas, Tx

From jeremiah at curryclan.net  Fri Mar  8 07:49:55 2013
From: jeremiah at curryclan.net (Jeremiah@curryclan.net)
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2013 07:49:55 -0700
Subject: [TR] When to rebuild
In-Reply-To: <9B.43.25887.F9D79315@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
References: <9B.43.25887.F9D79315@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <4F95F6E13EDD49299B3785453C89A6F6@Officedesktop>

true.  But my 1991 Audi 200 20v did have 200,000 on it when I sold it.  The 
MR2 has 230,000 on it, but he previous owner ran too much boost so I replace 
the long block 15,000 miles ago with one that only had 30,000 miles on it.

I believe the Audi always had Mobile 1 synthetic, at least from the previous 
owner and me, I have heard sometimes the change from dino oil to synthetic 
can cause issues.

-----Original Message----- 
From: Randall
Sent: Thursday, March 7, 2013 10:56 PM
Cc: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] When to rebuild

> I have never had a consumption problem with mobile 1 on
> turbocharged Audis or my mr2 turbo...but thy probably have
> much tighter tolerances than American engines.  No offence
> intended by that comment, just my understanding

None taken.  I'm also guessing that your cars haven't covered 1/4 million
miles each <g>  But I suspect it has more to do with the effects of the
additives on old seals than engine tolerances.

-- Randall

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From dconnitt at fuse.net  Fri Mar  8 11:37:10 2013
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2013 13:37:10 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 Custom Aluminum Fuel Tank ~15 gallons
In-Reply-To: <CADm3DLEXA2b7=KwE2_32DiaZb_HCjc9_fOmixz_kMkB-zUy=kQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <63D5A36DE5404F65B7CEF4054D8ECDD9@BobDell><CADm3DLFNmYRpCw=+BrsQzsMHsU54=Zqq1N9ttAf_7A7htV79MQ@mail.gmail.com><AFA1F045466A4377A304962077A97477@BobDell>
	<CADm3DLEXA2b7=KwE2_32DiaZb_HCjc9_fOmixz_kMkB-zUy=kQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <922E736AEC90433D8D888719FB38146D@DaveLaptop>

Just curious but why the interest in a aluminum gas tank? I think my TR4A is 
supposed to hold 14 gallons. At this point unfortunately, I have not had the 
pleasure of driving the thing anywhere much less to a gas station but would 
aluminum be as safe as steel? I assume that the material thickness would 
have to be quite a bit more for aluminum vs. steel. We have a really good 
materials guy at work.. I think I will ask him and report back.
Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A IRS  (waiting on my Advance Auto-Wire harness!)

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Fri Mar  8 12:07:15 2013
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob)
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2013 14:07:15 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 Custom Aluminum Fuel Tank ~15 gallons
In-Reply-To: <922E736AEC90433D8D888719FB38146D@DaveLaptop>
References: <63D5A36DE5404F65B7CEF4054D8ECDD9@BobDell><CADm3DLFNmYRpCw=+BrsQzsMHsU54=Zqq1N9ttAf_7A7htV79MQ@mail.gmail.com><AFA1F045466A4377A304962077A97477@BobDell><CADm3DLEXA2b7=KwE2_32DiaZb_HCjc9_fOmixz_kMkB-zUy=kQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<922E736AEC90433D8D888719FB38146D@DaveLaptop>
Message-ID: <572A0BEC73704F47BECAC58CE33D880E@BobDell>

Aluminum doesn't rust........ and my tank is only 11.4 gallons if you top it 
off............which I don't so I wanted larger capacity for the trips I 
take and the way I use my car...... The 6-Pack guys wanted a tank with dual 
outlets to prevent fuel starvation and the guys with TBI/FI wanted a fuel 
return line that extends into the tank. Moss/TRF sell stock aluminum tanks 
for $620-$700 while this tank is $425 until 3/18 and then will go to $475! 
The company producing my tank does nothing but custom aluminum tanks for 
Military, Marine, Aircraft and Racing. Very specialized... highest quality 
materials, machining and welders...... over 10,000 custom tanks a year. With 
due respect to your materials guy, they employ a full time engineer who's 
involved in the final design and manufacturing process for their tanks.

Bob


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/

1975 TR6 modified with:
-Throttle Body Injection
-Toyota 5 Speed
-Nissan Differential
-AAW Wire Harness
-CVJs... and more


-----Original Message----- 
From: Dave Connitt
Sent: Friday, March 08, 2013 1:37 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Custom Aluminum Fuel Tank ~15 gallons

Just curious but why the interest in a aluminum gas tank? I think my TR4A is
supposed to hold 14 gallons. At this point unfortunately, I have not had the
pleasure of driving the thing anywhere much less to a gas station but would
aluminum be as safe as steel? I assume that the material thickness would
have to be quite a bit more for aluminum vs. steel. We have a really good
materials guy at work.. I think I will ask him and report back.
Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A IRS  (waiting on my Advance Auto-Wire harness!)

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Fri Mar  8 12:10:36 2013
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2013 11:10:36 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TR6 Custom Aluminum Fuel Tank ~15 gallons
In-Reply-To: <922E736AEC90433D8D888719FB38146D@DaveLaptop>
References: <63D5A36DE5404F65B7CEF4054D8ECDD9@BobDell><CADm3DLFNmYRpCw=+BrsQzsMHsU54=Zqq1N9ttAf_7A7htV79MQ@mail.gmail.com><AFA1F045466A4377A304962077A97477@BobDell>
	<CADm3DLEXA2b7=KwE2_32DiaZb_HCjc9_fOmixz_kMkB-zUy=kQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<922E736AEC90433D8D888719FB38146D@DaveLaptop>
Message-ID: <1362769836.10246.YahooMailNeo@web120006.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

dave
there is often some water in the gas you pump and you will get some from
condensation forming in the gas tank when left overnight in cold weather.
my
steel tank rusted because of that.
aluminum wont rust. it will oxidize a
little but wont develop a hole as fast as steel will. i suspect both materials
will outlive most of us old f**rts. so you building for the next generation of
owner.
the gage of aluminum wont be that big of a deal. unless its Chinese
beer can can thick! the gas tank is not pressurized and is only subject to
weight of the gas contained within. i build all kinds of things from aluminum
at my place of employment.
Frank
TR3
NFI or desire in this TR6 tank
 
 
 
From: Dave Connitt <dconnitt at fuse.net>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent:
Friday, March 8, 2013 10:37 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Custom Aluminum Fuel Tank
~15 gallons

Just curious but why the interest in a aluminum gas tank? I think
my TR4A is supposed to hold 14 gallons. At this point unfortunately, I have
not had the pleasure of driving the thing anywhere much less to a gas station
but would aluminum be as safe as steel? I assume that the material thickness
would have to be quite a bit more for aluminum vs. steel. We have a really
good materials guy at work.. I think I will ask him and report back.
Dave
Connitt
'67 TR4A IRS  (waiting on my Advance Auto-Wire harness!)

**
triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From arakelianp at mossmotors.com  Fri Mar  8 14:24:09 2013
From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Pete Arakelian)
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2013 13:24:09 -0800
Subject: [TR] Morning commute
Message-ID: <4D4FABA15328FC42B1AA0DEE4673548C0188B8E9684E@DR-EX-04.datacenter.dataresolution.net>

I know I've talked about my commute before, and my apologies and sympathy for
those of you in horrible weather, but this morning was fantastic!
If you have Google earth, check Gaviota in California.  My commute brings me
from Buellton to Goleta along the coast, Highway101.  We just had an inch of
rain overnight and this morning it was clearing out.  Those of you who are top
down enthusiasts will appreciate the experience of riding after a storm.  The
clouds shelving out from the hills toward the ocean, the sun just coming up
lighting the undersides red, the sky clear as a bell with a clear view of the
offshore islands 26 miles away.  Last small sliver of the moon above.
Temperature 460.  Signs of spring are coming to southern California - the
mustard plants are yellow and everywhere, the next sign will be the blooming
of the ice plants, everything is green this time of year.
It was fantastic!

Peter

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Fri Mar  8 14:33:08 2013
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob)
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2013 16:33:08 -0500
Subject: [TR] Morning commute
In-Reply-To: <4D4FABA15328FC42B1AA0DEE4673548C0188B8E9684E@DR-EX-04.datacenter.dataresolution.net>
References: <4D4FABA15328FC42B1AA0DEE4673548C0188B8E9684E@DR-EX-04.datacenter.dataresolution.net>
Message-ID: <F2615E14BD524544BC44594DB8CB78A8@BobDell>

Grrrrrrrrr..... we got 8" of white today! Though the top on the 6 is 
down............well actually it's off the car and in the sunroom.


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/

1975 TR6 modified with:
-Throttle Body Injection
-Toyota 5 Speed
-Nissan Differential
-AAW Wire Harness
-CVJs... and more

-----Original Message----- 
From: Pete Arakelian
Sent: Friday, March 08, 2013 4:24 PM
To: 'triumphs at autox.team.net'
Subject: [TR] Morning commute

I know I've talked about my commute before, and my apologies and sympathy 
for
those of you in horrible weather, but this morning was fantastic!
If you have Google earth, check Gaviota in California.  My commute brings me
from Buellton to Goleta along the coast, Highway101.  We just had an inch of
rain overnight and this morning it was clearing out.  Those of you who are 
top
down enthusiasts will appreciate the experience of riding after a storm. 
The
clouds shelving out from the hills toward the ocean, the sun just coming up
lighting the undersides red, the sky clear as a bell with a clear view of 
the
offshore islands 26 miles away.  Last small sliver of the moon above.
Temperature 460.  Signs of spring are coming to southern California - the
mustard plants are yellow and everywhere, the next sign will be the blooming
of the ice plants, everything is green this time of year.
It was fantastic!

Peter

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Fri Mar  8 14:35:43 2013
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2013 13:35:43 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Morning commute
In-Reply-To: <4D4FABA15328FC42B1AA0DEE4673548C0188B8E9684E@DR-EX-04.datacenter.dataresolution.net>
References: <4D4FABA15328FC42B1AA0DEE4673548C0188B8E9684E@DR-EX-04.datacenter.dataresolution.net>
Message-ID: <1362778543.70334.YahooMailNeo@web120002.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Peter
i too share your love of southern California and the beauty of it.
daylight saving time just a day away, my daffodils are up and spring is here.
i have no top for the TR3 so its all top down driving.
what a wonderful place
we live.
on the way to work i tried to catch some fog. i mist
but i had stayed
up all night to see where the sun set. then it dawned on me.
 
Sorry
Frank
From: Pete Arakelian <arakelianp at mossmotors.com>
To:
"'triumphs at autox.team.net'" <triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Friday, March 8,
2013 1:24 PM
Subject: [TR] Morning commute

I know I've talked about my
commute before, and my apologies and sympathy for
those of you in horrible
weather, but this morning was fantastic!
If you have Google earth, check
Gaviota in California.  My commute brings me
from Buellton to Goleta along the
coast, Highway101.  We just had an inch of
rain overnight and this morning it
was clearing out.  Those of you who are top
down enthusiasts will appreciate
the experience of riding after a storm.  The
clouds shelving out from the
hills toward the ocean, the sun just coming up
lighting the undersides red,
the sky clear as a bell with a clear view of the
offshore islands 26 miles
away.  Last small sliver of the moon above.
Temperature 460.  Signs of spring
are coming to southern California - the
mustard plants are yellow and
everywhere, the next sign will be the blooming
of the ice plants, everything
is green this time of year.
It was fantastic!

Peter

**
triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Fri Mar  8 14:58:22 2013
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Fri, 08 Mar 2013 14:58:22 -0700
Subject: [TR] Morning commute
In-Reply-To: <1362778543.70334.YahooMailNeo@web120002.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <4D4FABA15328FC42B1AA0DEE4673548C0188B8E9684E@DR-EX-04.datacenter.dataresolution.net>
	<1362778543.70334.YahooMailNeo@web120002.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <513A5EFE.8010104@gmail.com>

On 3/8/13 2:35 PM, Frank Fisher wrote:
> Peter
> i too share your love of southern California and the beauty of it.
> daylight saving time just a day away, my daffodils are up and spring is here.
>
Humm ...

The rain you had in Southern California is now about 6 inches of snow 
here in Flagstaff and getting deeper.  The pine trees are covered in 
snow looking picture postcard scenic.  We are expecting anywhere from 12 
to 16 inches by the time the storm passes.  Just before the storm I 
could see tulip spears just starting to emerge from the sunniest part of 
the yard.  It had warmed up to the low fifties and I took my TR3 out for 
a drive.  Oh well.  When you are in the high country snow happens during 
the winter.

Daylight savings time.  That's when Arizona moves from the rocky 
mountain time zone into the Pacific time zone and the rest of you change 
your clocks.  I prefer the way Arizona and Hawaii deals with time.  None 
of this funny jumping forward and back.

TeriAnn

From mark at bradakis.com  Fri Mar  8 18:06:05 2013
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Fri, 08 Mar 2013 18:06:05 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 seat pans?
Message-ID: <513A8AFD.6070302@bradakis.com>

http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=142


mjb.

From dave at ranteer.com  Sat Mar  9 11:14:06 2013
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2013 12:14:06 -0600
Subject: [TR] tr3 heater
Message-ID: <C98D188ADF1E4C1DAB0689978671FBAD@Datsun>

the heater in a 57 tr3 smallmouth b Ibm about to renovate one that I
picked up.

the top is just a plate b thatbs gloss black?

the bottom b with the little doors b its all crinkle black?

From wbeech at flash.net  Sat Mar  9 11:33:02 2013
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2013 12:33:02 -0600
Subject: [TR] tr3 heater
In-Reply-To: <C98D188ADF1E4C1DAB0689978671FBAD@Datsun>
References: <C98D188ADF1E4C1DAB0689978671FBAD@Datsun>
Message-ID: <9C527CC12A9D408880C4AF74B29F039A@bboffice>

You are correct, per the TRA guide:
1. Motor, blades, mountings and top plate are gloss black
2. Core is semi-gloss
3. Bottom plate is wrinkle black with white knobs.

Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Even if you are on the right track, you'll get run over if you just sit
there"  Will Rodgers



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave
Sent: Saturday, March 09, 2013 12:14 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] tr3 heater

the heater in a 57 tr3 smallmouth b Ibm about to renovate one that I
picked up.

the top is just a plate b thatbs gloss black?

the bottom b with the little doors b its all crinkle black?

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From dave1massey at cs.com  Sat Mar  9 06:13:59 2013
From: dave1massey at cs.com (Dave Massey)
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2013 08:13:59 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] When to rebuild
In-Reply-To: <408095090.322594.1362697813575.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <408095090.322594.1362697813575.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <8CFEADF18564245-948-20033@webmail-m151.sysops.aol.com>

Have you checked the surface of the crankshaft where the seal rides?  Odds are
it has been worn by the old seal.  You can't expect the new seal to seal up
against a rough surface.  And, it seems, the folks who turn crankshafts often
neglect to dress that surface.

I replaced the seals in my TR6 diff but the pinion seal continued to leak
anyway.  After a couple of years (and a failed U-joint) I dropped the diff and
took the opportunity to install a Speedi-sleeve on the pinion flange.  This
provided a fresh, smooth surface for the seal.  Lo and behold the leak
stopped!

The moral of the story is there are two parts to the sealing issue, the seal
and the surface the seal contacts.  Both are important.






Dave Massey






-----Original Message-----
From: terryrs <terryrs at comcast.net>
To: Ed Oot <eoot at citlink.net>
Cc: Triumphs <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, Mar 7, 2013 5:10 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] When to rebuild


>When, if ever. Is a rear main
>oil leak significant enough to warrant a rebuild.

I've rebuilt mine twice because I had to.  Each time, I've not managed to
control the oil from leaking, despite going to the new real oil seals.

Then again, I insist on using Mobil 1 15-50 synthetic, and I expect Mobil
builds
into the DNA of that oil the intrinsic nature to seek my garage floor.

Not sure what you're running, but syn may exacerbate the problem....

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A  TS 58667
New Hampshire

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Mar  9 17:07:16 2013
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 9 Mar 2013 16:07:16 -0800
Subject: [TR] When to rebuild
In-Reply-To: <8CFEADF18564245-948-20033@webmail-m151.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <06.C7.06772.7AECB315@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> The moral of the story is there are two parts to the sealing 
> issue, the seal
> and the surface the seal contacts.  Both are important.

Except of course for the original TR2-4A rear main seal; which was a
non-contact design.  Lots of folks dislike it, but at the time the engine
was developed, it was actually an improvement over the "conventional" rear
main seal (which was basically cotton rope back then).

-- Randall 

From dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Mar 10 06:15:54 2013
From: dave1massey at cs.com (Dave Massey)
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2013 08:15:54 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] When to rebuild
In-Reply-To: <06.C7.06772.7AECB315@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
References: <06.C7.06772.7AECB315@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <8CFEBA02547A6AC-19EC-2FAA3@webmail-d223.sysops.aol.com>

 Ah, yes.  We tend to forget the history of engine development.  In the early
days there was the total loss oiling systems.  Then the concept of reusing the
oil was introduced.  This led to oil filtering (bypass filtering).  Then full
flow filtering.  Oil sealing improved in incremental steps in the same manner.
As did our expectations.  The change to leaving drops instead of puddles was
considered a great improvement.  Now we complain about a light oil film on the
exterior of the engine.

But my comments were relevant to lip seals as found in TR6 and other SC
derived engines.




Dave Massey






-----Original Message-----
From: Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>


> The moral of the story is there are two parts to the sealing
> issue, the seal
> and the surface the seal contacts.  Both are important.

Except of course for the original TR2-4A rear main seal; which was a
non-contact design.  Lots of folks dislike it, but at the time the engine
was developed, it was actually an improvement over the "conventional" rear
main seal (which was basically cotton rope back then).

-- Randall

From moira.secrest at verizon.net  Sun Mar 10 14:19:10 2013
From: moira.secrest at verizon.net (M. Secrest)
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2013 16:19:10 -0400
Subject: [TR] 72 TR6 Overdrive Mounting Bracket
In-Reply-To: <mailman.20.1362938403.31667.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.20.1362938403.31667.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <EBB1B4F3-625C-4182-A730-4BD64DE3C244@verizon.net>

The rearward most mounting bracket for 72 TR6 gearbox with overdrive: there is
a rectangular, flexing bracket with studs that attaches to the frame
crossmember.  The transmission bolts to this bracket with one heavy bolt and
nut, and another identical bolt and a captured nut in a vaguely L shaped
bracket.

Which side of the overdrive does this L bracket/nut go on, and what is its
purpose and orientation?  Guessing the right side but not sure, and it's not
clear from the manual or my photos.

Thanks ...

Sent by my butler

On Mar 10, 2013, at 2:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> This message cannot be displayed because of the way it is formatted. Ask the
sender to send it again using a different format or email program. text/plain

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Sun Mar 10 15:10:58 2013
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2013 17:10:58 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Tax Stamp
Message-ID: <4fa6.b6ff399.3e6e50e2@aol.com>

Hello List,
 
Does anyone know where I can get a replica Tax Stamp for the windscreen of  
my TR4?
 
I had one on my TR6 but I can't recall for certain where I got it;  it  was 
a very nicely done replica.
 
The top is officially down for the summer so I'm 99% sure that we'll get a  
major snowstorm next week but at least I have a couple of near 60 degree 
days to  be out and about:)
 
Cheers,
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA 
1962 TR4  CT2052L

From moira.secrest at verizon.net  Sun Mar 10 15:26:04 2013
From: moira.secrest at verizon.net (M. Secrest)
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2013 17:26:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 Gearbox/OD Mounting Bracket
In-Reply-To: <mailman.20.1362938403.31667.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.20.1362938403.31667.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8602893C-800D-4A38-A012-95C7FDE215A8@verizon.net>

Not sure this made it out the first time, so let me try again.


The rearward most mounting bracket for 72 TR6 gearbox with overdrive: there is
a rectangular, flexing bracket with studs that attaches to the frame
crossmember.  The transmission bolts to this bracket with one heavy bolt and
nut, and another identical bolt and a captured nut in a vaguely L shaped
bracket.

Which side of the overdrive does this L bracket/nut go on, and what is its
purpose and orientation?  Guessing the right side but not sure, and it's not
clear from the manual or my photos.

Thanks ...

Martin Secrest
72 TR6

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Mar 10 16:22:13 2013
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2013 14:22:13 -0800
Subject: [TR] When to rebuild
In-Reply-To: <8CFEBA02547A6AC-19EC-2FAA3@webmail-d223.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <6E.39.06772.5970D315@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> Ah, yes.  We tend to forget the history of engine 
> development.  In the early days there was the total loss 
> oiling systems.  Then the concept of reusing the oil was 
> introduced.  This led to oil filtering (bypass filtering). 

You left out the amusing part : Some car makers claimed that filtering the
oil was unnecessary!

My first car (a 62 Chevy) had the optional, bypass oil filter canister
mounted on a bracket, with external lines to an oil gallery and the side of
the crankcase.  Oddly enough, Triumph had already been using full-flow
filters for 6 or 7 years (and my Chevy also had the rope rear main seal),
showing again that they were actually innovative cars for their time.

Shame they couldn't keep it up.

-- Randall 

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Sun Mar 10 16:52:18 2013
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2013 18:52:18 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL....COMBINATION SCROLL AND VITON
 SEAL
Message-ID: <8CFEBF90D42CA74-EE8-37B66@webmail-m130.sysops.aol.com>

Noting recent discussion on this subject:

In August of 2013, the VTR magazine had an extensive article on the
installation of the Chris Marx design for this seal.

A discussion on this seal also appeared in Kas Kastner's latest book, KAS
KASTNER'S TRIUMPHS.

Kas' book also contains an entire chapter on avoiding oil leaks in the 'wet
sleeve' engines. Worth the price of the book, itself.

There are presently two sources in North America for the "MADMARX" brand SEAL
KIT. If anyone is interested, I can provide this information off list. It is
now a frequently used replacement seal and does not require any machining of
the crankshaft.

Regards,

Joe Alexander
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Mar 10 16:54:21 2013
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2013 14:54:21 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR6 Gearbox/OD Mounting Bracket
In-Reply-To: <8602893C-800D-4A38-A012-95C7FDE215A8@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <A2.5B.04559.C1F0D315@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> The rearward most mounting bracket for 72 TR6 gearbox with 
> overdrive: there is a rectangular, flexing bracket with studs 
> that attaches to the frame crossmember.  The transmission 
> bolts to this bracket with one heavy bolt and nut, and 
> another identical bolt and a captured nut in a vaguely L 
> shaped bracket.

The one with the captive nut goes on the RH side, under the flange of your
"rectangular, flexing bracket" which I believe most people call a rear motor
mount.  It supports the exhaust system (each pipe should have a flange that
bolts to the bracket).  

Check out section 12.45.08 of your workshop manual, and the diagram at
http://trf.zeni.net/TR6bluebook/72.php

Although not original, I like to put flat washers between the bolt heads and
the aluminum casting.

-- Randall 

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Mar 10 16:59:54 2013
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2013 14:59:54 -0800
Subject: [TR] CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL....COMBINATION SCROLL AND VITON
 SEAL
In-Reply-To: <8CFEBF90D42CA74-EE8-37B66@webmail-m130.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <14.E2.11869.A601D315@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> There are presently two sources in North America for the 
> "MADMARX" brand SEAL KIT. If anyone is interested, I can 
> provide this information off list. It is now a frequently 
> used replacement seal and does not require any machining of 
> the crankshaft.

It is also a "belt and suspenders" design, that keeps the original scroll
seal functional while adding another lip seal on the outboard side of it.

I will definitely be installing one, next time I have the crankshaft out.
Thanks, Joe, for bringing this design to the US!

-- Randall 

From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Mar 10 17:36:05 2013
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2013 17:36:05 -0600
Subject: [TR] Fwd: [Healeys] off topic car for sale
In-Reply-To: <759EDA9681744536B9FD3FB7E34CD589@oscar>
References: <759EDA9681744536B9FD3FB7E34CD589@oscar>
Message-ID: <513D18E5.2060809@bradakis.com>

I wouldn't mind having a GT6 again someday.  I'd have to lose a few pounds
to make it easier to get in and out, though.

mjb.


-------- Original Message --------
Subject: 	[Healeys] off topic car for sale
Date: 	Sun, 10 Mar 2013 09:40:09 -0600
From: 	David Porter <frogeye at porterscustom.com>
To: 	<healeys at autox.team.net>



1973 Triumph GT6  Needs a fair amount of work. Been sitting with the engine
out for 8 years for a clutch replacement. Body is straight and looks
undamaged, except the roof has been scratched down to bare metal and will
require painting.

The owner needs ~$1000.00 to take it home. Engine turns freely and "was
running". Non O/D. No pictures available. I can put you in touch if
interested. NFI. Would make a nice race car??

Dave

  

frogeye at porterscustom.com

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Sun Mar 10 21:41:12 2013
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2013 22:41:12 -0500
Subject: [TR] When to rebuild
In-Reply-To: <6E.39.06772.5970D315@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
References: <6E.39.06772.5970D315@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <B6B53947F6EA47938A7A6028E8EBE3BC@livingroompc>

"showing again that they were actually innovative cars for their time.
 Shame they couldn't keep it up.

 -- Randall"

The Brits were on top of the world in the early 50s, offering advanced cars 
with advanced specification and performance, the XK120, TR2, and AH100 being 
prime examples.  One contemporary road test (may have been Hot Rod or Road 
and Track) said the TR2 had better acceleration than any stock American car. 
This quickly changed as the new generation of v-8s were being developed and 
fit to American cars.    The TR soldiered on with around 100 hp and weight a 
little over two tons in its various iterations through the introduction of 
the TR5 for the 1968 model year, which alas wasn't offered in the States due 
to well, I guess we don't need to start that topic again, but about this 
time the Germans, Italians and later the Japanese were using technology and 
innovation (aluminum heads and blocks, overhead cams, fuel injection) to 
keep cars performing and even increasing performance even with the tighter 
standards that strangled the British cars coming over here, killing off the 
AH and strangling the Triumphs and especially the MGs.  Story most of us 
have heard before.

But at one time you are very right Randall, the brits were really leaders in 
technology and innovation,  culminating in my opinion with the E-type and 
the Mini in the late fifties to very early sixties, two very advanced cars 
for their day by any standards, and still standard production cars available 
at very competitive prices with comparable or many times more pedestrian 
offerings from other countries.

Kind of a long rambling post, I kind of like studying and analyzing this 
stuff.

Greg Lemon

From mdporter at dfn.com  Sun Mar 10 21:55:33 2013
From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter)
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2013 21:55:33 -0600
Subject: [TR] When to rebuild
In-Reply-To: <B6B53947F6EA47938A7A6028E8EBE3BC@livingroompc>
References: <6E.39.06772.5970D315@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
	<B6B53947F6EA47938A7A6028E8EBE3BC@livingroompc>
Message-ID: <513D55B5.6080705@dfn.com>

On 3/10/2013 9:41 PM, Greg Lemon wrote:
> This quickly changed as the new generation of v-8s were being 
> developed and fit to American cars.    The TR soldiered on with around 
> 100 hp and weight a little over two tons in its various iterations

Two tons? I didn't know the TR came stock with 1800 lbs of concrete 
blocks in the trunk....


Cheers.

-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Sun Mar 10 21:59:47 2013
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2013 22:59:47 -0500
Subject: [TR] When to rebuild
In-Reply-To: <513D55B5.6080705@dfn.com>
References: <6E.39.06772.5970D315@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
	<B6B53947F6EA47938A7A6028E8EBE3BC@livingroompc>
	<513D55B5.6080705@dfn.com>
Message-ID: <3CE0614C40D74C9FB5B83427B81C7DA6@livingroompc>

You are of course correct, meant one ton, must have been thinking of TWO 
thousand pounds, Greg

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Michael Porter" <mdporter at dfn.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2013 10:55 PM
To: "Greg Lemon" <glemon at neb.rr.com>
Cc: <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] When to rebuild

> On 3/10/2013 9:41 PM, Greg Lemon wrote:
>> This quickly changed as the new generation of v-8s were being developed 
>> and fit to American cars.    The TR soldiered on with around 100 hp and 
>> weight a little over two tons in its various iterations
>
> Two tons? I didn't know the TR came stock with 1800 lbs of concrete blocks 
> in the trunk....
>
>
> Cheers.
>
> -- 
>
>
> Michael Porter
> Roswell, NM
>
>
> Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking 
> distance....

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Mar 11 05:14:28 2013
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2013 07:14:28 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] When to rebuild
Message-ID: <bee0.4d8f8ed5.3e6f1693@cs.com>

How long did Volkswagen go without a filter?  The old beetles had only a 
screen (similar to that in the Laycock overdrives).

Dave

In a message dated 3/10/2013 5:22:35 PM Central Daylight Time, 
TR3driver at ca.rr.com writes: 
> You left out the amusing part : Some car makers claimed that filtering 
> the
> oil was unnecessary!

From pethier at comcast.net  Mon Mar 11 07:38:32 2013
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2013 13:38:32 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] When to rebuild
In-Reply-To: <bee0.4d8f8ed5.3e6f1693@cs.com>
Message-ID: <1744578782.148951.1363009112246.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

----- Original Message -----
> From: Dave1massey at cs.com

> How long did Volkswagen go without a filter? The old beetles had only
> a
> screen (similar to that in the Laycock overdrives).

Around 1970, I knew a raceworker from Minneapolis.  Phil Dean.  Phil had a beetle.  I was over there while he changed the oil.  Cleaned the screen with gasoline.

Isn't that dangerous?

"I don't smoke.  I don't know anybody know smokes.  I make it a point not to know anybody who smokes."

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier at comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

From aljlthomson at charter.net  Mon Mar 11 07:49:03 2013
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex&Janet Thomson)
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2013 09:49:03 -0400
Subject: [TR] When to rebuild
In-Reply-To: <6E.39.06772.5970D315@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
References: <8CFEBA02547A6AC-19EC-2FAA3@webmail-d223.sysops.aol.com>
	<6E.39.06772.5970D315@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <001201ce1e5f$30f1ea50$92d5bef0$@charter.net>

I wonder if some industries were ahead of others when it came to engineering
and providing long-term value and reliability. When the John Deere model A
and B row crop tractors were introduced in 1934 and '35 respectively, both
were equipped with pressure lube systems with an easily adjustable relief
valve and a full-flow filter. The early filters were of a cleanable, metal
edge design made by Purolator. Later in the decade, paper elements were the
standard issue and an update kit allowed you to convert an older machine to
the newer style paper elements. That update kit is still available from
Deere, but for $220. The paper element, AR26350, lists for about $6.50 and
was used on tractors up through the very early seventies. Nearly 40 years
without a change of part numbers - that made it easy on the farm that
stocked filters for their tractors! 

Positive crankcase ventilation was also part of those 1930's machines. A
tube carried crankcase blow-by to the air cleaner inlet Later, in 1947, a
roller pump driven by the fan shaft was added to increase the efficiency of
the PCV system. It's always fascinating looking at old machine design. If
any of you have a "Popular Mechanics" or similar magazine from the 30's,
40's or even 50's, take a look at the number of ads for replacement piston
rings, bearings and valves. You will see references such as "at your next
regular valve grind" or "at the next bearing roll-in." What a difference
from today.

Thanks for the chance to reminisce.

Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2013 6:22 PM
Cc: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] When to rebuild

> Ah, yes.  We tend to forget the history of engine development.  In the 
> early days there was the total loss oiling systems.  Then the concept 
> of reusing the oil was introduced.  This led to oil filtering (bypass 
> filtering).

You left out the amusing part : Some car makers claimed that filtering the
oil was unnecessary!

My first car (a 62 Chevy) had the optional, bypass oil filter canister
mounted on a bracket, with external lines to an oil gallery and the side of
the crankcase.  Oddly enough, Triumph had already been using full-flow
filters for 6 or 7 years (and my Chevy also had the rope rear main seal),
showing again that they were actually innovative cars for their time.

Shame they couldn't keep it up.

-- Randall 

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Mon Mar 11 07:55:21 2013
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2013 09:55:21 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Tax Discs (formerly Tax Stamp)
Message-ID: <a8e7.1a671f8.3e6f3c49@aol.com>

List,
 
Thanks to all who replied to my search for a tax disc.  I originally  
called it a tax stamp which got no hits on google so I should have suspected  
that I was calling it incorrectly!
 
Anyway....FYI - here's the website I selected to order my tax disc:   
_www.britishtaxdiscs.co.uk_ (http://www.britishtaxdiscs.co.uk) 
 
The company's name is Earlswood Vintage & Classic
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA 
1962 TR4  CT2052L

From rjones at wfeca.net  Mon Mar 11 08:21:58 2013
From: rjones at wfeca.net (Robert Jones)
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2013 09:21:58 -0500
Subject: [TR] Tax Discs (formerly Tax Stamp)
In-Reply-To: <a8e7.1a671f8.3e6f3c49@aol.com>
References: <a8e7.1a671f8.3e6f3c49@aol.com>
Message-ID: <FEFA5156-C12A-4E1E-8CB1-A1DCFFD50325@wfeca.net>

Chip:

I got mine from Greg Powell.  Nicely done, multiple copies, and great price.

greg at poplargreg.com

Bob
On Mar 11, 2013, at 8:55 AM, Chip19474 at aol.com wrote:

> List,
>
> Thanks to all who replied to my search for a tax disc.  I originally
> called it a tax stamp which got no hits on google so I should have suspected
> that I was calling it incorrectly!
>
> Anyway....FYI - here's the website I selected to order my tax disc:
> _www.britishtaxdiscs.co.uk_ (http://www.britishtaxdiscs.co.uk)
>
> The company's name is Earlswood Vintage & Classic
>
> Chip Krout
> Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
> Skippack, PA
> 1962 TR4  CT2052L
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rjones at wfeca.net

From grandfatherjim at gmail.com  Mon Mar 11 08:44:11 2013
From: grandfatherjim at gmail.com (Jim Wallace)
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2013 10:44:11 -0400
Subject: [TR] Rear oil seal
Message-ID: <CAA43NTvQ+ckWhKvoeBkawAj0KpA7CiCXKRbYnz4kbYmXs_RfOw@mail.gmail.com>

I have rebuilt 3 Ferguson tractors, 1950-1952 models, which were
manufactured by the Standard Motor Company. I believe this motor was an
adaptation of the engine from the Standard Vanguard but my memory could be
off on that.
Anyway, the crank is the same as on the TR2/3, except - it has the more
"modern" contact-type, rear oil seal. I wonder why, when they further
adapted it for the TR, they went to a scroll?
They built a lot more of those tractors than they ever did the 4 cylinder
TRs (about 570,000) so it's not like they didn't have experience.
The tractor does top out at about 1,800 rpm; maybe that's a factor. The
tractor factor?
Jim
=========
From: "Randall" <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>

Subject: Re: [TR] When to rebuild

> The moral of the story is there are two parts to the sealing
> issue, the seal
> and the surface the seal contacts.  Both are important.

Except of course for the original TR2-4A rear main seal; which was a
non-contact design.  Lots of folks dislike it, but at the time the engine
was developed, it was actually an improvement over the "conventional" rear
main seal (which was basically cotton rope back then).

-- Randall

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Mon Mar 11 08:55:56 2013
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2013 07:55:56 -0700
Subject: [TR] When to rebuild
In-Reply-To: <001201ce1e5f$30f1ea50$92d5bef0$@charter.net>
References: <8CFEBA02547A6AC-19EC-2FAA3@webmail-d223.sysops.aol.com>
	<6E.39.06772.5970D315@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
	<001201ce1e5f$30f1ea50$92d5bef0$@charter.net>
Message-ID: <513DF07C.5030709@gmail.com>

On 3/11/13 6:49 AM, Alex&Janet Thomson wrote:
> I wonder if some industries were ahead of others when it came to engineering
> and providing long-term value and reliability.
You folks are missing a critical parameter.

British sports cars were the most fun to drive at and under the speed 
limit and are still amongst the best in that category.  One can have 
loads of fun in a stock bugeye Sprite or Spit and not exceed the speed 
limit. Get into a Carrara with its big tyres and advance computer aided 
suspension and you need to top 100 MPH before you begin to approach the 
fun you can have in a TR at less than half that speed.

The tyres may be skinny, power outclassed by new low end econo boxes and 
the suspension may be archaic but British sports cars are driver's cars. 
Cars that can give you a taste of classic European Millie Migila, The 
Monte Carlo rally  and racing the streets of the 17 mile drive in Carmel.

They can also provide a taste of classic motoring with a wool car 
blanket and a wicker lunch basket tied to the luggage rack over the boot.

These cars are not obsolete. No, they are for the few people who have 
not forgotten how to have fun driving at under 100 MPH and who want to 
engage in motoring and the world they are traveling through.  There is 
no texting while driving a classic British sports car.  You are driving 
and paying attention to everything around you.  Engaging in life.

No, not obsolete at all

TeriAnn

From wbeech at flash.net  Mon Mar 11 09:37:02 2013
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2013 10:37:02 -0500
Subject: [TR] When to rebuild
In-Reply-To: <513DF07C.5030709@gmail.com>
References: <8CFEBA02547A6AC-19EC-2FAA3@webmail-d223.sysops.aol.com><6E.39.06772.5970D315@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com><001201ce1e5f$30f1ea50$92d5bef0$@charter.net>
	<513DF07C.5030709@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <E13FDC7C9D4F4D63B8CCAF0408858992@bboffice>

Amen! 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TeriAnn J. Wakeman
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2013 9:56 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] When to rebuild

On 3/11/13 6:49 AM, Alex&Janet Thomson wrote:
> I wonder if some industries were ahead of others when it came to 
> engineering and providing long-term value and reliability.
You folks are missing a critical parameter.

British sports cars were the most fun to drive at and under the speed limit
and are still amongst the best in that category.  One can have loads of fun
in a stock bugeye Sprite or Spit and not exceed the speed limit. Get into a
Carrara with its big tyres and advance computer aided suspension and you
need to top 100 MPH before you begin to approach the fun you can have in a
TR at less than half that speed.

The tyres may be skinny, power outclassed by new low end econo boxes and the
suspension may be archaic but British sports cars are driver's cars. 
Cars that can give you a taste of classic European Millie Migila, The Monte
Carlo rally  and racing the streets of the 17 mile drive in Carmel.

They can also provide a taste of classic motoring with a wool car blanket
and a wicker lunch basket tied to the luggage rack over the boot.

These cars are not obsolete. No, they are for the few people who have not
forgotten how to have fun driving at under 100 MPH and who want to engage in
motoring and the world they are traveling through.  There is no texting
while driving a classic British sports car.  You are driving and paying
attention to everything around you.  Engaging in life.

No, not obsolete at all

TeriAnn

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com  Mon Mar 11 09:52:29 2013
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2013 08:52:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 Custom Aluminum Fuel Tank ~15 gallons
Message-ID: <1363017149.86982.YahooMailNeo@web160106.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Hi list!
Just catching up on my backlog readings & have a question to ask the TR4 & TR4A owners about this statement that Ed made.
I own a '67 TR4A & it does NOT have any opening in the upper right hand courner or ANY WHERE, other than to place the rubber coupling onto the filler cap. In fact, my spare tank that I pulled out of a TR4 (I think or may have been a TR4A) dosen't have any other, too. 
Did TRIUMPH do this to some tanks & not others?
----------
Ed wrote:
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2013 16:22:42 -0800 (PST)
From: Q <hdrider570 at att.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Custom Aluminum Fuel Tank ~15 gallons

I can tell you that a stock TR6 tank fits into a TR4 with no problems.  The only difference I could see between the two was that the TR4 tank has a banjo type vent outlet on the top right corner.  The TR6 has nothing there if if remember correctly.
Edward Hamer
Petaluma CA
------------

-Cosmo Kramer

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Mon Mar 11 10:39:10 2013
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2013 09:39:10 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 carb neadles
Message-ID: <1363019950.10264.YahooMailNeo@web120006.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

kept my buddy company this week as he attempted to rebuild his zenith carbs
from his 73 TR6.
 
first frustration is buying a "rebuild kit" that contains
only 1/2 the parts you need to rebuild! got new jets but no new needle. what
the heck?
 
couple questions:
 
first how do you get that jet out?
 
second.
how do you get the needle out?
and the needle was wobbly. you could push it
sideways a little. is that normal? yes we had the little grub screw screwed in
and the little brass collar turned so the slot lined up with the grub screw..
 
also we could pull the needle down and it would pop back in like its on a
spring. is that normal?
 
thanks
Frank

From McGaheyRx at aol.com  Mon Mar 11 10:58:19 2013
From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2013 12:58:19 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 carb neadles
Message-ID: <7c20.4d01c1b0.3e6f672a@aol.com>

In a message dated 3/11/2013 12:40:40 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
yellowtr3 at yahoo.com writes:

first  frustration is buying a "rebuild kit" that contains
only 1/2 the parts you  need to rebuild! got new jets but no new needle. 
what
the  heck?
 
 
I have never seen a ZS rebuild kit that came with jets  or needles - it 
would be unusual to need needles, and even more unusual to  need jets. the jets 
on a 73 have to be pressed out.
 
 


second.
how do you get the needle out?
and the needle was  wobbly. you could push it
sideways a little. is that normal? 
 
yes, that is normal. to get the needle out, first you  will need to screw 
the adjusting screw all the way out of the needle  carrier (from above with a 
ZS adjustment tool) - then remove that grub screw and  pull the needle out.
   
 
 
 

..

also we could pull the needle down and it would pop back  in like its on a
spring. is that normal?



yes, that is normal
 
Cheers,
Jack Mc

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Mar 11 11:10:31 2013
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2013 13:10:31 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] When to rebuild
Message-ID: <479c.24edf6f6.3e6f6a06@cs.com>

I dunno, isn't the carb full of the stuff?

Dave

In a message dated 3/11/2013 8:38:33 AM Central Daylight Time, 
pethier at comcast.net writes: 
> >How long did Volkswagen go without a filter? The old beetles had only
> >a
> >screen (similar to that in the Laycock overdrives).
> 
> Around 1970, I knew a raceworker from Minneapolis.  Phil Dean.  Phil had a 
> beetle.  I was over there while he changed the oil.  Cleaned the screen 
> with gasoline.
> 
> Isn't that dangerous?

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Mon Mar 11 11:10:46 2013
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2013 10:10:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 carb neadles
In-Reply-To: <7c20.4d01c1b0.3e6f672a@aol.com>
References: <7c20.4d01c1b0.3e6f672a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1363021846.51280.YahooMailNeo@web120006.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

thank you Jack.
i can confirm that his kit did contain a set of jets. but did
not contain a needle.
 
so basically a rebuild kid is a new diaphragm, screws
and gaskets? just being a ass here on this comment :-)
 
 thanks
Frank

From:
"McGaheyRx at aol.com" <McGaheyRx at aol.com>
To: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com;
triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2013 9:58 AM
Subject: Re:
[TR] TR6 carb neadles





In a message dated 3/11/2013 12:40:40 P.M. Eastern
Daylight Time, yellowtr3 at yahoo.com writes:
first frustration is buying a
"rebuild kit" that contains
>only 1/2 the parts you need to rebuild! got new
jets but no new needle. what
>the heck?


I have never seen a ZS rebuild kit
that came with jets or needles - it would be unusual to need needles, and even
more unusual to need jets. the jets on a 73 have to be pressed out.
 
>second.
>how do you get the needle out?
>and the needle was wobbly. you could
push it
>sideways a little. is that normal? 

yes, that is normal. to get the
needle out, first you will need to screw the adjusting screw all the way out
of the needle carrier (from above with a ZS adjustment tool) - then remove
that grub screw and pull the needle out.
   



..
>
>also we could pull the
needle down and it would pop back in like its on a
>spring. is that normal?
>
yes, that is normal
 
Cheers,
Jack Mc

> 

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Mar 11 11:34:10 2013
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2013 13:34:10 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 carb neadles
Message-ID: <54a5.fcb0bd4.3e6f6f91@cs.com>

The rebuild kits are generic but the needles are specific to the model, 
market and year of the car so other than including all possible needle 
selections the only option is to supply none.  (Makes for a less expensive kit)  

Yes, the needle is spring loaded.  This eliminates the need to center the 
jet (which you can't do on a ZS carb anyway).  To remove you remove the grub 
screw on the side of the piston and then back off the adjustment and the 
needle assembly will withdraw from the bottom of the piston.

The jets themselves are pressed in.  I've never changed one so I don't know 
the best way to go about this.  Pressing one in means you have to set the 
proper depth so be sure to measure the depth before you remove the old one.

Dave (I've got a couple of kits coming in the mail myself)

In a message dated 3/11/2013 11:40:43 AM Central Daylight Time, 
yellowtr3 at yahoo.com writes: 
> first frustration is buying a "rebuild kit" that contains
> only 1/2 the parts you need to rebuild! got new jets but no new needle. 
> what
> the heck?
> 
> couple questions:
> 
> first how do you get that jet out?
> 
> second.
> how do you get the needle out?
> and the needle was wobbly. you could push it
> sideways a little. is that normal? yes we had the little grub screw 
> screwed in
> and the little brass collar turned so the slot lined up with the grub 
> screw..
> 
> also we could pull the needle down and it would pop back in like its on a
> spring. is that normal?

From dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Mar 11 12:42:12 2013
From: dave1massey at cs.com (Dave Massey)
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2013 14:42:12 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Rear oil seal
In-Reply-To: <CAA43NTvQ+ckWhKvoeBkawAj0KpA7CiCXKRbYnz4kbYmXs_RfOw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAA43NTvQ+ckWhKvoeBkawAj0KpA7CiCXKRbYnz4kbYmXs_RfOw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8CFEC9F46FD4DCD-EBC-45F6C@webmail-m284.sysops.aol.com>

 As you say, the Ferguson engine was an adaption of the the Vanguard engine.
Ferguson may have specified a lip seal change on the old rope seal which was
already in production for the Triumph line.  The question is why didn't they
incorporate the change into the motor car line?  Inertia, probably.




Dave Massey






-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Wallace <grandfatherjim at gmail.com>


I have rebuilt 3 Ferguson tractors, 1950-1952 models, which were
manufactured by the Standard Motor Company. I believe this motor was an
adaptation of the engine from the Standard Vanguard but my memory could be
off on that.
Anyway, the crank is the same as on the TR2/3, except - it has the more
"modern" contact-type, rear oil seal. I wonder why, when they further
adapted it for the TR, they went to a scroll?
They built a lot more of those tractors than they ever did the 4 cylinder
TRs (about 570,000) so it's not like they didn't have experience.
The tractor does top out at about 1,800 rpm; maybe that's a factor. The
tractor factor?
Jim
=========
From: "Randall" <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>

Subject: Re: [TR] When to rebuild

> The moral of the story is there are two parts to the sealing
> issue, the seal
> and the surface the seal contacts.  Both are important.

Except of course for the original TR2-4A rear main seal; which was a
non-contact design.  Lots of folks dislike it, but at the time the engine
was developed, it was actually an improvement over the "conventional" rear
main seal (which was basically cotton rope back then).

-- Randall

From keithstewart at execulink.com  Mon Mar 11 12:43:38 2013
From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart)
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2013 14:43:38 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 Custom Aluminum Fuel Tank ~15 gallons
In-Reply-To: <mailman.516.1363023309.7392.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.516.1363023309.7392.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <CB26F8F2-EDA5-4812-BBA4-3D87D983AC52@execulink.com>

On 2013-03-11, at 08:52:29 -0700 (PDT), Cosmo Kramer wrote:
>
> I own a '67 TR4A & it does NOT have any opening in the upper right hand
courner or ANY WHERE, other than to place the rubber coupling onto the filler
cap. In fact, my spare tank that I pulled out of a TR4 (I think or may have
been a TR4A) dosen't have any other, too.
> Did TRIUMPH do this to some tanks & not others?
>
I am the second owner of my 67 TR4A. I purchased it from the original owner
with 33 000 miles on it and no accident damage any where so I doubt this tank
was ever replaced. The only openings on the top of the tank are:
the filler neck that couples to the gas cap on the top side of the body
the sending unit for the gas gauge.
Keith Stewart

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Mar 11 12:45:00 2013
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2013 18:45:00 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR6 carb neadles
In-Reply-To: <1363019950.10264.YahooMailNeo@web120006.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20130311184500.VUU9V.50758.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>

> got new jets but no new needle. what 
> the heck? 

That's so you can substitute the B1E needles that supposedly work better with E10 (according to Joe Curto).

> first how do you get that jet out?

This will sound somewhat heretical, but what about just leaving the jet alone?  Unlike the earlier fixed needle carbs, the jets rarely wear on the later carbs with the spring-loaded needles.

As noted, it is pressed into place.  Some simple mandrels are called for, you probably don't want to put pressure on the entire carb body.  And there is no positive location for position (even though the position is somewhat critical), so be sure to measure the old position and duplicate it.

> how do you get the needle out?

Read the excellent series of articles on how to rebuild ZS carbs at
http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/technical.htm

> and the needle was wobbly. you could push it
> sideways a little. is that normal? yes we had the little grub screw screwed in
> and the little brass collar turned so the slot lined up with the grub screw..
>  
> also we could pull the needle down and it would pop back in like its on a
> spring. is that normal?

Yes, and yes.  Obviously you don't want to pull too hard as the spring is what locates the needle in normal operation.

--- Randall

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Mon Mar 11 12:51:21 2013
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2013 11:51:21 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 Custom Aluminum Fuel Tank ~15 gallons
In-Reply-To: <CB26F8F2-EDA5-4812-BBA4-3D87D983AC52@execulink.com>
References: <mailman.516.1363023309.7392.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<CB26F8F2-EDA5-4812-BBA4-3D87D983AC52@execulink.com>
Message-ID: <513E27A9.8060104@gmail.com>

On 3/11/13 11:43 AM, Keith Stewart wrote:
> I am the second owner of my 67 TR4A. I purchased it from the original owner
> with 33 000 miles on it and no accident damage any where so I doubt this tank
> was ever replaced. The only openings on the top of the tank are:
> the filler neck that couples to the gas cap on the top side of the body
>
Hmm. My original TR3A fuel tank has a filler opening, a sender unit 
opening, a fuel outlet opening and a threaded opening for a breather 
tube.  I gather that the breather tube was eliminated as an early anti 
SMOG step.

None of which has any real meaning to TR6 tanks.

TeriAnn

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon Mar 11 13:58:28 2013
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob)
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2013 15:58:28 -0400
Subject: [TR] 6-Pack Mail List Still Exist?
Message-ID: <02B6FEDC1BDF435AA8F293E7B1FDF309@BobDell>

At one point I thought I there was a 6-Pack Mail List that I was subscribed 
to but I can't find any place on team.net to see if it still exists. Is it 
still around and how do you sign up for it?

Thanks

Bob


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/

1975 TR6 modified with:
-Throttle Body Injection
-Toyota 5 Speed
-Nissan Differential
-AAW Wire Harness
-CVJs... and more 

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Mon Mar 11 14:05:20 2013
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2013 16:05:20 -0400
Subject: [TR] 6-Pack Mail List Still Exist?
In-Reply-To: <02B6FEDC1BDF435AA8F293E7B1FDF309@BobDell>
References: <02B6FEDC1BDF435AA8F293E7B1FDF309@BobDell>
Message-ID: <513E3900.3030501@adelphia.net>

Bob,

I was also on that list but got bounced off over a year ago. Never did 
find out why.

I am guessing that the list was dropped due to limited traffic.

Bob

On 03/11/2013 03:58 PM, Bob wrote:
> At one point I thought I there was a 6-Pack Mail List that I was 
> subscribed to but I can't find any place on team.net to see if it 
> still exists. Is it still around and how do you sign up for it?
>
> Thanks
>
> Bob
>
>
> Bob Danielson
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/
>
> 1975 TR6 modified with:
> -Throttle Body Injection
> -Toyota 5 Speed
> -Nissan Differential
> -AAW Wire Harness

From larrygriffin.nc at gmail.com  Mon Mar 11 14:29:55 2013
From: larrygriffin.nc at gmail.com (Larry Griffin)
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2013 16:29:55 -0400
Subject: [TR] 6-Pack Mail List Still Exist?
In-Reply-To: <02B6FEDC1BDF435AA8F293E7B1FDF309@BobDell>
References: <02B6FEDC1BDF435AA8F293E7B1FDF309@BobDell>
Message-ID: <CAONC1_5jMBn6tzJ=Aqx60RfCFf3kJshq+MSamsakDBOdQ_fo3A@mail.gmail.com>

Bob,

It is still active. There were several postings on Friday. I believe
you can sign up at this link:
http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack


Thanks,
Larry Griffin
71TR6



On Mon, Mar 11, 2013 at 3:58 PM, Bob <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote:
> At one point I thought I there was a 6-Pack Mail List that I was subscribed
> to but I can't find any place on team.net to see if it still exists. Is it
> still around and how do you sign up for it?
>
> Thanks
>
> Bob
>
>
> Bob Danielson
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/
>
> 1975 TR6 modified with:
> -Throttle Body Injection
> -Toyota 5 Speed
> -Nissan Differential
> -AAW Wire Harness
> -CVJs... and more
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/larrygriffin.nc at gmail.com

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Mar 11 14:54:19 2013
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2013 20:54:19 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR6 Custom Aluminum Fuel Tank ~15 gallons
In-Reply-To: <513E27A9.8060104@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20130311205420.LBZSB.51568.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>

---- "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman at gmail.com> wrote: 
> I gather that the breather tube was eliminated as an early anti 
> SMOG step.

Look like it was deleted at CT19971, roughly Jan 1963.  

But I think it was just because they decided the separate vent tube was overkill (and has a tendency to dump fuel on the road).  The "emissions" tanks would have had a separate fitting(s), to allow the fumes to be routed to the carbon canister and intake manifold.

My vent line has been blocked off for years.  Other than not leaving a stripe of fuel when I turn left with a full tank, it seems to work fine.  But I also have a fuel cap with a small vent hole through the inner plate.

Randall

From hdrider570 at att.net  Mon Mar 11 16:16:49 2013
From: hdrider570 at att.net (Q)
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2013 15:16:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 Custom Aluminum Fuel Tank ~15 gallons
Message-ID: <1363040209.10293.YahooMailClassic@web184306.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

As far as I know they stopped putting the vent connection sometime around the start of TR4A production.  They just use a vented gas cap instead.  A good thing really as the tank mounted vent always spills fuel in a tight left turn when full.

Edward Hamer
Petaluma CA

From cliff_hansen at earthlink.net  Mon Mar 11 17:24:41 2013
From: cliff_hansen at earthlink.net (Cliff Hansen)
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2013 17:24:41 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR6 Custom Aluminum Fuel Tank ~15 gallons
In-Reply-To: <1363040209.10293.YahooMailClassic@web184306.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1363040209.10293.YahooMailClassic@web184306.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1D6EBDAE4E474C56971CC82556C05798@Shemp>

There's no vent on the top of my TR4A gas tank.  Cap is vented.  This is a 
'66 production year car.

Cliff


-----Original Message----- 
From: Q
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2013 4:16 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR6 Custom Aluminum Fuel Tank ~15 gallons

As far as I know they stopped putting the vent connection sometime around 
the start of TR4A production.  They just use a vented gas cap instead.  A 
good thing really as the tank mounted vent always spills fuel in a tight 
left turn when full.

Edward Hamer
Petaluma CA

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From mark at bradakis.com  Mon Mar 11 23:27:39 2013
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2013 23:27:39 -0600
Subject: [TR] 6-Pack Mail List Still Exist?
In-Reply-To: <513E3900.3030501@adelphia.net>
References: <02B6FEDC1BDF435AA8F293E7B1FDF309@BobDell>
	<513E3900.3030501@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <513EBCCB.3020501@bradakis.com>

A list of lists:

            2000-register - Triumph 2000 discussion
                    6pack - 6pack TR6 discussions
                  Alpines - Sunbeam Alpine Discussion
                 Amphicar - Amphicar Enthusiasts list
             Aston-martin - Aston Martin vehicle discussion
               Autojumble - Automotive related buy and sell
                    autox - Autocross discussion
                 Ba-autox - [no description available]
                     Bmcu - British Motor Club of Utah
                 Bmw-Mini - Discussions about the new BMW Mini
                 Bricklin - Bricklin automobile discussion
             British-cars - British car discussions
     British-cars-pre-war - Pre WWII British automobile discussion
           Buick-rover-v8 - Discussion applications for the Buick-Rover V8
                     Cahc - Cascade Austin Healey Club
              Chapman-era - British Sports cars inspired by Colin Chapman
         Curved-dash-olds - Curved Dash Oldsmobiles, 1900 - 1905
         Datsun-roadsters - Datsun Roadster discussion
                     DMVR - DMVR
             Formula-ford - Discussion of SCCA Formula Fords of various 
types
         Glen-scca-racing - SCCA Glen region road racing list
                goldcoast - Gold Coast British Car Club
                      Gta - Georgia Triumph Association
                  Healeys - Austin Healey Discussion
                   Italia - Triumph Italia discussion
                  Jagnuts - JAGNUTS Regina
               Land-speed - Land Speed racing
               Lotus-cars - Lotus cars, past, present, future
                  LSUFSAE - Mailing list for LSU's FSAE Team
              LSUminibaja - [no description available]
                  Mailman - [no description available]
                   Marcos - Marcos sports car discussion
                   Mg-mmm - Discussion about MG Triple M vehicles
                     Mg-t - MG T series vehicle discussion
                   Mgb-v8 - V8 powered MG discussion
                      Mgs - MG Sports Car discussion
                    Miata - Mazda Miata discussion
              Migcruisers - [no description available]
                Mini-list - Mini discussion
                  Morgans - Morgan Automobiles Discussion
                   Morris - Morris automobile discussion
                    NOBBC - North Bay British Car Club
                Oletrucks - Chevy/GM trucks from  1941 - 59
                Shop-talk - Random workshop related discussion
                 Shotimes - Ford SHO Product discussion list
              Single-malt - Scotch appreciation
                Spitfires - Triumph Spitfire Discussion
                Spridgets - Sprite and Midget discussions
            superchargers - Supercharger discussion
              Team-thicko - irreverent VIntage Racing stuff
                The-local - Random chatter for team.net folks
                   Tigers - Sunbeam Tigers
                 Triumphs - Triumph Sports car discussion
                      Tvr - TVR Sports car discussion
             Vintage-race - Various Vintage Racing issues and chatter
                     Vtow - Vintage Triumphs of Wisconsin
                      Vtr - Discussion for Vintage Triumph Register folks
               Wichitapca - Whicita PCA group
                     WMJR - Wasatch Mountain Jaguar Register
[

From Catpusher at aol.com  Tue Mar 12 20:38:58 2013
From: Catpusher at aol.com (Catpusher at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2013 22:38:58 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Subject: Re:  TR6 carb neadles
Message-ID: <48a9.67214b13.3e7140c2@aol.com>

In my experience, the jets do wear with the spring loaded needles.   Volvo 
even made a tool to move the jet in the body; it replaced the plug below  
the jet and screwed into the threads in the main body.  It would  push the jet 
up in a controlled manor, but the location needs to be exact, and  be 
measured by the proper exhaust mixture.  Even a  new adjustable needle often has 
too little range to deal with jet wear  alone.
Much lost time and spilled fuel over adjusting an early carb, let  alone 
most SUs.
 
TR Regards
Hardy
 
 
In a message dated 3/12/2013 11:01:45 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
triumphs-request at autox.team.net writes:

From:  Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: Triumphs  <triumphs at autox.team.net>, Frank Fisher
<yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 carb  neadles
Message-ID:  <20130311184500.VUU9V.50758.root at cdptpa-web01-z01>
Content-Type:  text/plain; charset=utf-8

> got new jets but no new needle. what  
> the heck? 

That's so you can substitute the B1E needles that  supposedly work better 
with E10 (according to Joe Curto).

> first  how do you get that jet out?

This will sound somewhat heretical, but  what about just leaving the jet 
alone?  Unlike the earlier fixed needle  carbs, the jets rarely wear on the 
later carbs with the spring-loaded  needles.

As noted, it is pressed into place.  Some simple mandrels  are called for, 
you probably don't want to put pressure on the entire carb  body.  And there 
is no positive location for position (even though the  position is somewhat 
critical), so be sure to measure the old position and  duplicate it.

> how do you get the needle out?

Read the  excellent series of articles on how to rebuild ZS carbs  at
http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/technical.htm

> and  the needle was wobbly. you could push it
> sideways a little. is that  normal? yes we had the little grub screw 
screwed in
> and the little  brass collar turned so the slot lined up with the grub 
screw..
>   
> also we could pull the needle down and it would pop back in like its  on a
> spring. is that normal?

Yes, and yes.  Obviously you  don't want to pull too hard as the spring is 
what locates the needle in normal  operation.

---  Randall

From mark at bradakis.com  Tue Mar 12 23:09:52 2013
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark Bradakis)
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2013 23:09:52 -0600
Subject: [TR] Forums
Message-ID: <m3y5drrilb.fsf@bradakis.com>

I have fixed the problem with new registrations for the forums [ link
below ] so those who are not already registered can sign up.

mjb.

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Wed Mar 13 11:19:17 2013
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2013 10:19:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Explain This Overheating
Message-ID: <1363195157.47538.YahooMailNeo@web180904.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

     So I've begun driving the TR3 to work again. It has been in the 80's
during the day in Mojave. It is pretty brisk at 0600 at the mile high
elevation that I live at.
     The temperature gauge in the TR3 has lost the
ether and is getting sent in to be rebuilt asap.
     So yesterday I am
driving home. The TR runs like a freight train. I coasted down about 1/2 mile
and downhill and stopped outside my garage. While the garage door is opening
the car overheats and steam comes out.
     I topped off the coolant. Later
that evening I let my daughter drive the TR with me in the car with her. We
are tooling around the hills at low speeds, under 35 mph. We coast down about
a mile of downhill and stop at a stop sign. I begin smelling hot coolant
again. It is like it is taunting me.
     My radiator was rebuilt about 12
years ago without a crank hole.
     I have blocked off the water pump bypass
with a brass plug with a 1/8" hole drilled in it to prevent vacuum lock.
    
I have an electric fan (puller, not pusher) that comes on at about 190.
    
Tonight I am going to use a Prestone radiator flush and refill with fresh
coolant and distilled water 50/50 mix.
     With the coolant out I am going to
pour water in the top to see how fast it sloshes out the bottom hose hole to
see if the radiator appears blocked..

     I only use distilled water and
coolant in my radiator.
     Last year I put on a new Moss radiator cap and a
new 185 thermostat and put on all new hoses.
     My question is, why does it
overheat after a long downhill? I could see it overheating after a long
uphill.
     Gotta get the temp gauge fixed. I meant to do it when the cold
weather arrived.

      -Bill in Tehachapi

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Wed Mar 13 11:22:48 2013
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2013 10:22:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Temperature Gauges
Message-ID: <1363195368.59393.YahooMailNeo@web180903.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

     I am getting ready to send out my temperature gauge back to West Valley
Instrument, who rebuilt it in the mid 90's. Is there a better gauge out there
to install in a TR3A? I was thinking that maybe there is a gauge with an
electric sending unit that still looks like the TR3 gauge or something. I
would rather not put a VDO or Stewart Warner gauge in my TR. I'll probably end
up just having the original rebuilt again.

     TIA,

     -Bill in Tehachapi

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Mar 13 11:48:25 2013
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2013 13:48:25 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Explain This Overheating
Message-ID: <1e9d3.2e8f403.3e7215e9@cs.com>

Check your radiator cap.  I had an overheating problem in one of my cars 
but only at altitude (6,000 ft and higher).  The cap was not holding pressure 
and I would get boil over even when the car was just at normal operating 
temperatures.  

A new cap solved the problem.

Dave

In a message dated 3/13/2013 12:19:28 PM Central Daylight Time, 
wsb1960tr3a at att.net writes: 
>      So I've begun driving the TR3 to work again. It has been in the 80's
> during the day in Mojave. It is pretty brisk at 0600 at the mile high
> elevation that I live at.
>      The temperature gauge in the TR3 has lost the
> ether and is getting sent in to be rebuilt asap.
>      So yesterday I am
> driving home. The TR runs like a freight train. I coasted down about 1/2 
> mile
> and downhill and stopped outside my garage. While the garage door is 
> opening
> the car overheats and steam comes out.
>      I topped off the coolant. Later
> that evening I let my daughter drive the TR with me in the car with her. 
> We
> are tooling around the hills at low speeds, under 35 mph. We coast down 
> about
> a mile of downhill and stop at a stop sign. I begin smelling hot coolant
> again. It is like it is taunting me.
>      My radiator was rebuilt about 12
> years ago without a crank hole.
>      I have blocked off the water pump bypass
> with a brass plug with a 1/8" hole drilled in it to prevent vacuum lock.
>     
> I have an electric fan (puller, not pusher) that comes on at about 190.
>     
> Tonight I am going to use a Prestone radiator flush and refill with fresh
> coolant and distilled water 50/50 mix.
>      With the coolant out I am going to
> pour water in the top to see how fast it sloshes out the bottom hose hole 
> to
> see if the radiator appears blocked..
> 
>      I only use distilled water and
> coolant in my radiator.
>      Last year I put on a new Moss radiator cap and a
> new 185 thermostat and put on all new hoses.
>      My question is, why does it
> overheat after a long downhill? I could see it overheating after a long
> uphill.
>      Gotta get the temp gauge fixed. I meant to do it when the cold
> weather arrived.

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Wed Mar 13 11:52:07 2013
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2013 10:52:07 -0700
Subject: [TR] Explain This Overheating
In-Reply-To: <1363195157.47538.YahooMailNeo@web180904.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1363195157.47538.YahooMailNeo@web180904.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <5140BCC7.3020606@gmail.com>

My question is, why does it overheat after a long downhill? I could see 
it overheating after a long uphill.

The first thing I would do is check the ignition timing

The second thing would be a compression check to look for a blown head 
gasket

The third thing you be to check idle fuel pressure just in case your 
pressure might be low causing the engine to run lean

TeriAnn

From kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Wed Mar 13 12:05:10 2013
From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer)
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2013 11:05:10 -0700
Subject: [TR] Explain This Overheating
In-Reply-To: <1363195157.47538.YahooMailNeo@web180904.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1363195157.47538.YahooMailNeo@web180904.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000001ce2015$4d9426c0$e8bc7440$@net>

Hi Bill, 
Don't know the state of your engine, but one thing that made a big
difference in my car was removing the petcock at the rear of the engine,
cleaning out all the scale inside the block that I could, and then flushing
the block. I also don't run more than 20% antifreeze as I've heard from this
list that it really isn't very good at cooling.

Since you have a puller electric fan, you don't have a mechanical fan which
means that you are pretty dependent on that electric fan, so the question
is, are you sure it is coming on like it's supposed to? 

Sorry, don't know why it is overheating on the downhill run. I suppose it
has to do with what the RPM's are and how hard the engine is working to slow
you down.

Bob


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer
Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2013 10:19 AM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] Explain This Overheating

     So I've begun driving the TR3 to work again. It has been in the 80's
during the day in Mojave. It is pretty brisk at 0600 at the mile high
elevation that I live at.
     The temperature gauge in the TR3 has lost the ether and is getting sent
in to be rebuilt asap.
     So yesterday I am
driving home. The TR runs like a freight train. I coasted down about 1/2
mile and downhill and stopped outside my garage. While the garage door is
opening the car overheats and steam comes out.
     I topped off the coolant. Later
that evening I let my daughter drive the TR with me in the car with her. We
are tooling around the hills at low speeds, under 35 mph. We coast down
about a mile of downhill and stop at a stop sign. I begin smelling hot
coolant again. It is like it is taunting me.
     My radiator was rebuilt about 12
years ago without a crank hole.
     I have blocked off the water pump bypass with a brass plug with a 1/8"
hole drilled in it to prevent vacuum lock.
    
I have an electric fan (puller, not pusher) that comes on at about 190.
    
Tonight I am going to use a Prestone radiator flush and refill with fresh
coolant and distilled water 50/50 mix.
     With the coolant out I am going to
pour water in the top to see how fast it sloshes out the bottom hose hole to
see if the radiator appears blocked..

     I only use distilled water and
coolant in my radiator.
     Last year I put on a new Moss radiator cap and a new 185 thermostat and
put on all new hoses.
     My question is, why does it
overheat after a long downhill? I could see it overheating after a long
uphill.
     Gotta get the temp gauge fixed. I meant to do it when the cold weather
arrived.

      -Bill in Tehachapi

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Wed Mar 13 12:15:51 2013
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh)
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2013 11:15:51 -0700
Subject: [TR] Explain This Overheating
In-Reply-To: <1e9d3.2e8f403.3e7215e9@cs.com>
References: <1e9d3.2e8f403.3e7215e9@cs.com>
Message-ID: <3CC9E1C8-6726-4EB0-B26B-7B33C6C50660@comcast.net>

On a segment of Wheeler Dealers they worked on a TR6, used a Waterless
Coolant. Evans NPG+C, said it would never boil, and last forever, I found it
on Amazon, but it is VERY EXPENSIVE.	I wonder if anyone else has used it.

On Mar 13, 2013, at 10:48 AM, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote:

> Check your radiator cap.  I had an overheating problem in one of my cars
> but only at altitude (6,000 ft and higher).  The cap was not holding
pressure
> and I would get boil over even when the car was just at normal operating
> temperatures.
>
> A new cap solved the problem.
>
> Dave
>
> In a message dated 3/13/2013 12:19:28 PM Central Daylight Time,
> wsb1960tr3a at att.net writes:
>>     So I've begun driving the TR3 to work again. It has been in the 80's
>> during the day in Mojave. It is pretty brisk at 0600 at the mile high
>> elevation that I live at.
>>     The temperature gauge in the TR3 has lost the
>> ether and is getting sent in to be rebuilt asap.
>>     So yesterday I am
>> driving home. The TR runs like a freight train. I coasted down about 1/2
>> mile
>> and downhill and stopped outside my garage. While the garage door is
>> opening
>> the car overheats and steam comes out.
>>     I topped off the coolant. Later
>> that evening I let my daughter drive the TR with me in the car with her.
>> We
>> are tooling around the hills at low speeds, under 35 mph. We coast down
>> about
>> a mile of downhill and stop at a stop sign. I begin smelling hot coolant
>> again. It is like it is taunting me.
>>     My radiator was rebuilt about 12
>> years ago without a crank hole.
>>     I have blocked off the water pump bypass
>> with a brass plug with a 1/8" hole drilled in it to prevent vacuum lock.
>>
>> I have an electric fan (puller, not pusher) that comes on at about 190.
>>
>> Tonight I am going to use a Prestone radiator flush and refill with fresh
>> coolant and distilled water 50/50 mix.
>>     With the coolant out I am going to
>> pour water in the top to see how fast it sloshes out the bottom hose hole
>> to
>> see if the radiator appears blocked..
>>
>>     I only use distilled water and
>> coolant in my radiator.
>>     Last year I put on a new Moss radiator cap and a
>> new 185 thermostat and put on all new hoses.
>>     My question is, why does it
>> overheat after a long downhill? I could see it overheating after a long
>> uphill.
>>     Gotta get the temp gauge fixed. I meant to do it when the cold
>> weather arrived.

"Life is too short to drive boring cars"

Bill Pugh
1957 TR3 "Casper"p;
TS16765L
Wallace, CA
anabil007 at comcast.netp

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Wed Mar 13 12:25:30 2013
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2013 14:25:30 -0400
Subject: [TR] Explain This Overheating
In-Reply-To: <000001ce2015$4d9426c0$e8bc7440$@net>
References: <1363195157.47538.YahooMailNeo@web180904.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<000001ce2015$4d9426c0$e8bc7440$@net>
Message-ID: <5140C49A.5060503@adelphia.net>

Bill,

Sounds like altitude and pressure is a problem here. Or, your block 
could be filled with gunk.

Try the block flush method suggested a few replies ago. Cant hurt.

On all my 3 TRs, they tend to cool when driving down long hills. But I 
may get up to 1K feet AS at the most. But most of the time, the temp 
just stays in the middle. I use the stock water pump, and mechanical fans.

Last summer in 95 degree heat and high humidity while driving slow in 
city traffic, the TR4 did go above the middle mark, but as soon as I got 
to the open road it cooled right down. I am guessing a electrical fan 
would have helped there.

I also use 50/50 blend with distilled H20.

I have heard that water wetter helps. I tried it but didnt make the temp 
go down as far as I could tell.

I am interested in knowing what the problem is, so keep us updated.

Good luck,

Bob

From arakelianp at mossmotors.com  Wed Mar 13 12:32:00 2013
From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Pete Arakelian)
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2013 11:32:00 -0700
Subject: [TR] Explain This Overheating
Message-ID: <4D4FABA15328FC42B1AA0DEE4673548C0188B8E9687A@DR-EX-04.datacenter.dataresolution.net>

Also check the return valve on the bottom of the radiator cap.
I had a problem where the TR6 would not overheat, but would blow out coolant.
On suggestion from our tech mechanic I checked the return valve on the bottom
of the radiator cap.  There was a little crap stuck there that kept it open.
This meant I basically had an open system.  To be clear, the cap has two
functions.  There is the large seal that closes off the radiator until
pressure is reached to push against the spring and open it.  But there is also
a small valve in the center of that large seal that opens toward the radiator.
That's how coolant or air is drawn back into the radiator.  If it is held open
by some crap stuck there, the system will be open and you will blow steam.

Peter

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Wed Mar 13 14:44:34 2013
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2013 16:44:34 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Stuck SU needle
Message-ID: <337a3.f1d2804.3e723f31@aol.com>

Hi everyone;
 
Does any one have any tips to get the needle out of the piston on an SU? I  
have removed the needle securing screw, but the needle won't move.
 
Thanks;
 
Tim (TR3A TS22930LO)

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Mar 13 14:58:47 2013
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2013 20:58:47 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR3 Temperature Gauges
In-Reply-To: <1363195368.59393.YahooMailNeo@web180903.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20130313205847.JCWEP.63545.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>

---- William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a at att.net> wrote: 
> Is there a better gauge out there
> to install in a TR3A? I was thinking that maybe there is a gauge with an
> electric sending unit that still looks like the TR3 gauge or something. 

The early (to CT11307, mid-1962) TR4 gauge is electric, but otherwise looks very nearly identical to the TR3 gauge.  The style, needle, pivot, glass and bezel are all identical, the only visual difference is that one of the numbers on the face is different.  I'd have to go look, but ISTR the TR4 gauge reads to 250F while the TR3 gauge ends at 230F, or something like that.  The sender fits the same hole.

The downsides are that you'll need to add a voltage stabilizer and a wire to the sender.  The gauge doesn't work with the ignition off (obviously) and is kind of slow to respond to changes.  I do kind of miss being able to look at the gauge to judge how warm the engine is after stopping somewhere.

But the big upside is that the gauge can no longer be damaged by overheating, and should last forever without having to be periodically rebuilt.  Overall, I'm quite happy with mine.  It also appears to be very accurate; and can be calibrated if necessary without having to disassemble the gauge.  (Although adjusting the calibration is a lot easier if you make the little tool for the job.)

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Mar 13 15:14:53 2013
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2013 21:14:53 +0000
Subject: [TR] Explain This Overheating
In-Reply-To: <1363195157.47538.YahooMailNeo@web180904.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20130313211453.4XJ3K.63622.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>

This may be too obvious for words, but JIC:
Are you leaving room in the radiator for water expansion?  If you are filling completely full, then it will always expel some water until the level falls.  I find that, even with the extension only half full, it will still sometimes expel some more right after shutting down.

FWIW, I also had a radiator recored in 1999, with no crank hole and a puller fan.  Worked great, right up until that car got wrecked in 2005.  But when I moved that setup to my current TR3 in 2010, I started having problems again.  The radiator shop had pronounced it "fine" twice, but when I finally insisted that they rod it out, they discovered that all of the tubes had a layer of "mud" on the inside, which was obviously interfering with heat transfer.  None of the tubes were totally blocked, and water flow appeared to be sufficient, but it just wouldn't cool the engine.  Another recore once again definitely solved the problem.

--- Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Mar 13 15:23:30 2013
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2013 21:23:30 +0000
Subject: [TR] Stuck SU needle
In-Reply-To: <337a3.f1d2804.3e723f31@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20130313212330.B9C62.63653.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>

> Does any one have any tips to get the needle out of the piston on an SU? I  
> have removed the needle securing screw, but the needle won't move.

At some point, the needle becomes disposable and you can just grab it with vise-grips.

- Randall

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Mar 13 15:55:58 2013
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2013 17:55:58 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Explain This Overheating
Message-ID: <4164f.26072280.3e724fed@cs.com>

There was discussion about this on the Wedge list and there were a couple 
of folks interested and somehow justified the cost.  But I don't know if 
anyone has tried it yet.

Dave

In a message dated 3/13/2013 1:15:53 PM Central Daylight Time, 
anabil007 at comcast.net writes: 
> On a segment of Wheeler Dealers they worked on a TR6, used a Waterless 
> Coolant. Evans NPG+C, said it would never boil, and last forever, I found it 
> on Amazon, but it is VERY EXPENSIVE. I wonder if anyone else has used it.

From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Wed Mar 13 16:06:16 2013
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2013 18:06:16 -0400
Subject: [TR] Explain This Overheating
In-Reply-To: <4164f.26072280.3e724fed@cs.com>
References: <4164f.26072280.3e724fed@cs.com>
Message-ID: <CAPK7CFAfX5E_f0fm0FgAsLmU-oeWPjZBnEHek4JJjdV+yemtDQ@mail.gmail.com>

We talked about waterless coolants here a few months ago as well, if my
memory isn't completely gone. We talked at length about how boiling point
is *not* heat capacity, and although the glycol-based waterless coolants
have high boiling point they have something like only 60% of the heat
capacity of water.  We talked that if wanting to ensure the coolant's
boiling point was well above that of pure water there were probably other
issues with that ought to be taken care of first with an old Triumph.

There's a lot of buzz now, most of it generated by Evans, but the basic
heat transfer principles don't have me convinced.  It seems to me that
these waterless coolants are kind of a fad.  The pendulum swings.  I'm
running a lot higher water level in my coolant mix than I've used in years
past because planning for -20 F and below here in St. Louis isn't that
important (most of our winters) and giving my TR3B every chance to dump
heat into the coolant is more important to me.

Don
1962 TR3B TSF202L



On Wed, Mar 13, 2013 at 5:55 PM, <Dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:

> There was discussion about this on the Wedge list and there were a couple
> of folks interested and somehow justified the cost.  But I don't know if
> anyone has tried it yet.
>
> Dave
>
> In a message dated 3/13/2013 1:15:53 PM Central Daylight Time,
> anabil007 at comcast.net writes:
> > On a segment of Wheeler Dealers they worked on a TR6, used a Waterless
> > Coolant. Evans NPG+C, said it would never boil, and last forever, I
> found it
> > on Amazon, but it is VERY EXPENSIVE. I wonder if anyone else has used it.
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com

From dave at ranteer.com  Wed Mar 13 16:04:53 2013
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2013 17:04:53 -0500
Subject: [TR] Explain This Overheating
In-Reply-To: <4164f.26072280.3e724fed@cs.com>
References: <4164f.26072280.3e724fed@cs.com>
Message-ID: <BE831E37F6AB4AF5A5A36E7210F5F8CE@Datsun>

that's last forever, until a hose or ?? goes, and all that $$$ is on the 
pavement.  I just don't see it

-----Original Message----- 
From: Dave1massey at cs.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2013 4:55 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Explain This Overheating

There was discussion about this on the Wedge list and there were a couple
of folks interested and somehow justified the cost.  But I don't know if
anyone has tried it yet.

Dave

In a message dated 3/13/2013 1:15:53 PM Central Daylight Time,
anabil007 at comcast.net writes:
> On a segment of Wheeler Dealers they worked on a TR6, used a Waterless
> Coolant. Evans NPG+C, said it would never boil, and last forever, I found 
> it
> on Amazon, but it is VERY EXPENSIVE. I wonder if anyone else has used it. 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Mar 13 16:59:40 2013
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2013 22:59:40 +0000
Subject: [TR] Explain This Overheating
In-Reply-To: <4164f.26072280.3e724fed@cs.com>
Message-ID: <20130313225940.WFL06.64112.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>

---- Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: 
> There was discussion about this on the Wedge list and there were a couple 
> of folks interested and somehow justified the cost.  But I don't know if 
> anyone has tried it yet.

FWIW, I tried something similar many years ago.  Not the same blend as the Evans coolant (which is supposedly a mix of ethylene and propylene glycol), but rather straight ethylene glycol.  As predicted, the engine ran much hotter than usual, so hot in fact that it broke the temperature gauge, but did not boil over.  Seemed like an end to its perpetual overheating problems and it ran really well otherwise.

Until about a year later, when most of #2 cylinder went out the exhaust pipe!  Dad said it looked like a "cloud of engine parts chasing him down the highway".  The high heat (and I later learned lean mixture) had apparently allowed an exhaust valve stem to erode until it broke, letting the valve head loose in the cylinder.  (Poor materials may have played a role as well.)  The valve head broke the piston into bits, then the flailing rod pounded its way through the liner.  The rod didn't break, but wound up bent by 20 or 30 degrees.  The largest piece of piston I found was no bigger than a dime.

For some odd reason, I'm not tempted to repeat the experiment.

Randall

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Mar 13 17:05:13 2013
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2013 19:05:13 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Explain This Overheating
Message-ID: <6287a.4d53fad1.3e726029@cs.com>

That's the way I see it.  And even if you replace all you hoses, how do you 
know that that one, special molded heater hose is not defective.

I've found that TR's have perfectly adequate cooling systems (not great but 
adequate) and if you have overheating problems it is because something is 
amiss.  Fix it.

Just my opinion.

Dave

In a message dated 3/13/2013 5:34:49 PM Central Daylight Time, 
dave at ranteer.com writes: 
> that's last forever, until a hose or ?? goes, and all that $$$ is on the 
> pavement.  I just don't see it

From pryner at verizon.net  Wed Mar 13 18:01:54 2013
From: pryner at verizon.net (Pete Ryner)
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2013 20:01:54 -0400
Subject: [TR] Stuck SU needle
In-Reply-To: <20130313212330.B9C62.63653.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>
References: <20130313212330.B9C62.63653.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>
Message-ID: <6E7942E022184379A8ADC3663B3A7282@HomePC>

Try soaking in mystery oil or similar.  If it still doesn't budge, Randall 
has a good point.  Just be careful to get all of the needle out and don't 
damage the piston.
Pete

-----Original Message----- 
From: Randall
Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2013 5:23 PM
To: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com ; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Stuck SU needle

> Does any one have any tips to get the needle out of the piston on an SU? I
> have removed the needle securing screw, but the needle won't move.

At some point, the needle becomes disposable and you can just grab it with 
vise-grips.

- Randall

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Mar 13 18:24:05 2013
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2013 17:24:05 -0700
Subject: [TR] Explain This Overheating
In-Reply-To: <6287a.4d53fad1.3e726029@cs.com>
Message-ID: <20130314002405.CM4Q4.64997.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>

> I've found that TR's have perfectly adequate cooling systems (not great but 
> adequate) and if you have overheating problems it is because something is 
> amiss.  Fix it.

I tend to agree, but I am curious: Does anyone with a totally stock cooling system on their TR3 not have trouble with the temperature creeping up on a hot day stuck in stop-and-go traffic?

I initially installed the stock fan and radiator on TS13571L (except the radiator had no crank hole, so I'm assuming the previous owner had it recored).  It worked great under most conditions, but coming home from TRfest 2009 I found a big traffic jam where we averaged under 20 mph for roughly 40 miles.  (Yes, that's over 2 hours stuck in traffic.)  The gauge kept slowly creeping up, until I started shutting the engine off every chance I could, to keep the heat down.  That was when I determined to go back to the electric fan I had used on the previous TR3A.

Even the factory started supplying the almost legendary "tropical" fan to overcome this problem, so I have to think it is 'normal'.  Later TRs of course had much more aggressive fans (and a popular fix for the TR3 is to fit a TR6 fan).

Randall

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Wed Mar 13 18:42:54 2013
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh)
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2013 17:42:54 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 cooling
Message-ID: <7A4CA7AD-7479-4031-BC47-CFBD15B3DEF6@comcast.net>

I solved the TR3 problem by simply adding a overflow / return bottle.  My
"formula" came from FRED  one gallon Prestone, one bottle Redline water
wetter, one bottle NoRoison, jack up front until radiator cap higher than
head, add purified water, run engine till all bubbles gone. Fill up until
water is only up to 1/2 of the long neck. Puller fan, with secondary manual
switch, never goes over 190F



Bill Pugh
Wallace, CA

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Wed Mar 13 19:20:59 2013
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2013 18:20:59 -0700
Subject: [TR] Explain This Overheating
In-Reply-To: <20130314002405.CM4Q4.64997.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>
References: <6287a.4d53fad1.3e726029@cs.com>
	<20130314002405.CM4Q4.64997.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bFpkAQp4eS0M4MMZf8JA5GHWhioybi2SS-pbd-xEgz2kA@mail.gmail.com>

On Wed, Mar 13, 2013 at 5:24 PM, Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

> ... I am curious: Does anyone with a totally stock cooling system on their
> TR3 not have trouble with the temperature creeping up on a hot day stuck in
> stop-and-go traffic?



Mine seems to handle stop & go w/o overheating or even getting worrisomely
high on the gauge.  That is with a crank hole but it is a nearly new core
and a tropical fan.   I used to have an electric 'helper' fan but ditched
it when I added the tropical fan as that seemed enough help.

That said -- have not tried 40 miles in 2 hours -- not a situation that is
likely to arise in little Tucson.  I do often drive from 100+ on the valley
floor to 9000' in 24 miles or so -- but I can keep moving which makes all
the difference.

Geo

From spook01 at comcast.net  Wed Mar 13 19:52:18 2013
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2013 20:52:18 -0500
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Explain_This_Overheating?=
Message-ID: <mailman.4.1363226017.7389.triumphs@autox.team.net>

I have used it extensively.  Follow the directions, and forget boilovers forever.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: Dave1massey at cs.com
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Explain This Overheating
Date: Wed, Mar 13, 2013 16:55


There was discussion about this on the Wedge list and there were a couple 
of folks interested and somehow justified the cost.  But I don't know if 
anyone has tried it yet.

Dave

In a message dated 3/13/2013 1:15:53 PM Central Daylight Time, 
anabil007 at comcast.net writes: 
> On a segment of Wheeler Dealers they worked on a TR6, used a Waterless 
> Coolant. Evans NPG+C, said it would never boil, and last forever, I found it 
> on Amazon, but it is VERY EXPENSIVE. I wonder if anyone else has used it.

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From mark at bradakis.com  Thu Mar 14 20:49:35 2013
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2013 20:49:35 -0600
Subject: [TR] Fwd: [Mgs] Weber 42 DCOE for sale
In-Reply-To: <64C5D094AD3549B38B49AD1A3038917F@HomePC>
References: <64C5D094AD3549B38B49AD1A3038917F@HomePC>
Message-ID: <51428C3F.40409@bradakis.com>

I know it is only one, but 42s are the carbs of choice for the TR2-4, 
maybe someone would
be interested in this.

mjb.



-------- Original Message --------
Subject: 	[Mgs] Weber 42 DCOE for sale
Date: 	Thu, 14 Mar 2013 21:19:22 -0500
From: 	Larry Daniels <ladaniels at sbcglobal.net>
To: 	MG List <mgs at autox.team.net>, <MG-MGB at yahoogroups.com>



I have a brand new Weber 42 DCOE sidedraft carb for sale. My plans have
changed and I no longer have the car I was going to put it on.

Asking $275 OBO.

Larry Daniels
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
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From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Fri Mar 15 22:58:55 2013
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2013 21:58:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3 fuel line olive
Message-ID: <1363409935.49453.YahooMailNeo@web120004.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

 
am I right in recalling the fuel line olive at the fuel pump is different
from the American plumbing fixture?
thanks
frank

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Mar 16 00:03:10 2013
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2013 23:03:10 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 fuel line olive
In-Reply-To: <1363409935.49453.YahooMailNeo@web120004.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <0D.76.04559.71B04415@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> am I right in recalling the fuel line olive at the fuel pump 
> is different from the American plumbing fixture?

Yes.

Here is one solution
http://goo.gl/7JKpN

What I did was to machine a new nut, with longer threads and a blank section
at the tip so it would reach into the pump casting enough to compress a
standard olive, kind of like this:
http://goo.gl/ky2if

-- Randall 

From dave1massey at cs.com  Sat Mar 16 07:15:03 2013
From: dave1massey at cs.com (Dave Massey)
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2013 09:15:03 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3 fuel line olive
In-Reply-To: <0D.76.04559.71B04415@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
References: <0D.76.04559.71B04415@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <8CFF05F677BC17B-1E3C-A9FD@webmail-m232.sysops.aol.com>

 The posting does not say what that dimension should be.  Is that number
handy?

Dave

-----Original Message-----
From: Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>



Here is one solution
http://goo.gl/7JKpN

From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com  Sat Mar 16 08:32:34 2013
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2013 07:32:34 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Over heating
Message-ID: <1363444354.89764.YahooMailNeo@web160104.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Hi List!
In digest 6:94 Randall wrote:
I initially installed the stock fan and
radiator on TS13571L (except the radiator had no crank hole, so I'm assuming
the previous owner had it recorded).  It worked great under most conditions,
but coming home from TRfest 2009 I found a big traffic jam where we averaged
under 20 mph for roughly 40 miles.  (Yes, that's over 2 hours stuck in
traffic.)  The gauge kept slowly creeping up, until I started shutting the
engine off every chance I could, to keep the heat down.  That was when I
determined to go back to the electric fan I had used on the previous TR3A.
----------------------------
I was told that shutting the engine off  & then
starting it up to move, to keep the heat down would INCREASE the chance of
over heating because starting the engine causes more heat. Now I don't
understand why, but that's what I was told (not saying that I believe that).
 
Can any explain WHY this might happen?
-Cosmo Kramer

From wbeech at flash.net  Sat Mar 16 08:41:15 2013
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2013 09:41:15 -0500
Subject: [TR] Over heating
In-Reply-To: <1363444354.89764.YahooMailNeo@web160104.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1363444354.89764.YahooMailNeo@web160104.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <E81615817A44476ABA68F6E4FDA5EB72@bboffice>

Starting the engine does not cause the overheating, stopping it does.  When
you shut an engine down the heat it still there but the coolant flow is
halted.  Ergo, the heat will continue to build until it can naturally
dissapate.  I have not been in any heavy traffic with my stock TR3 but
parades have that same effect, so I will just depress the clutch and rev the
motor a little 1500-2000rpm when I can to increase the coolant flow.

Bill

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Cosmo Kramer
Sent: Saturday, March 16, 2013 9:33 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Over heating

Hi List!
In digest 6:94 Randall wrote:
I initially installed the stock fan and
radiator on TS13571L (except the radiator had no crank hole, so I'm assuming
the previous owner had it recorded).  It worked great under most conditions,
but coming home from TRfest 2009 I found a big traffic jam where we averaged
under 20 mph for roughly 40 miles.  (Yes, that's over 2 hours stuck in
traffic.)  The gauge kept slowly creeping up, until I started shutting the
engine off every chance I could, to keep the heat down.  That was when I
determined to go back to the electric fan I had used on the previous TR3A.
----------------------------
I was told that shutting the engine off  & then starting it up to move, to
keep the heat down would INCREASE the chance of over heating because
starting the engine causes more heat. Now I don't understand why, but that's
what I was told (not saying that I believe that).
 
Can any explain WHY this might happen?
-Cosmo Kramer

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Sat Mar 16 09:07:49 2013
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2013 11:07:49 -0400
Subject: [TR] Over heating
In-Reply-To: <1363444354.89764.YahooMailNeo@web160104.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1363444354.89764.YahooMailNeo@web160104.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4797E916846A495ABB22116087DC07CA@UserTHINK>

You may have misunderstood the comment. When you turn the engine off there 
is no flow of coolant but no heat being generated either. The heat generated 
when running will build for a while and then start to cool down naturally if 
engine is off long enough. By starting and stopping engine in heavy traffic 
you are generating less heat overall and the flow of cooler coolant from the 
radiator will bring the engine temp down pretty quickly. So shutting the 
engine off and starting does not generate more heat and cause overheating. 
If you have an electric fan and can run it during engine shutdown that will 
cool the water in the radiator and allow even quicker cool down when you 
start the engine again.
JVV

-----Original Message----- 
From: Cosmo Kramer
Sent: Saturday, March 16, 2013 10:32 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Over heating

Hi List!
In digest 6:94 Randall wrote:
I initially installed the stock fan and
radiator on TS13571L (except the radiator had no crank hole, so I'm assuming
the previous owner had it recorded).  It worked great under most conditions,
but coming home from TRfest 2009 I found a big traffic jam where we averaged
under 20 mph for roughly 40 miles.  (Yes, that's over 2 hours stuck in
traffic.)  The gauge kept slowly creeping up, until I started shutting the
engine off every chance I could, to keep the heat down.  That was when I
determined to go back to the electric fan I had used on the previous TR3A.
----------------------------
I was told that shutting the engine off  & then
starting it up to move, to keep the heat down would INCREASE the chance of
over heating because starting the engine causes more heat. Now I don't
understand why, but that's what I was told (not saying that I believe that).

Can any explain WHY this might happen?
-Cosmo Kramer

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Mar 16 10:18:10 2013
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2013 09:18:10 -0700
Subject: [TR] Over heating
In-Reply-To: <1363444354.89764.YahooMailNeo@web160104.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <0F.92.06772.A3B94415@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> I was told that shutting the engine off  & then starting it 
> up to move, to keep the heat down would INCREASE the chance 
> of over heating because starting the engine causes more heat. 
> Now I don't understand why, but that's what I was told (not 
> saying that I believe that).

Stopping the engine after it has been working hard (for example driving at
normal freeway speeds) can cause the coolant temperature to rise.  The metal
of the engine is hotter than the coolant, and once the engine is shut off,
the heat doesn't get moved to the radiator.  So the coolant temperature goes
up as heat moves from the metal into the coolant.

Starting does not generate any extra heat, except of course that the engine
generates some heat whenever it is running.

But in my case, the engine was not working hard at all.  I use very little
throttle even when traffic starts to move.  So "heat soak" (as the above
effect is called) was not an issue.  And the brief periods with the engine
not running reduced the overall amount of heat produced.  I was able to not
only stop the slow rise of the temperature gauge, but get it to come back
down some.  Revving the engine up as Bill suggested did not seem to help at
all (probably has something to do with the extra heat generated by revving
the engine up).

Your mileage may vary and all that.  But I've used my technique many times
over the years and it does work.  I even once drove a few months in Indiana
summer (with a previous TR3A) with no radiator fan at all; just by turning
the engine off every time I knew I was going to stop (coming up to a stop
sign or seeing the light turn yellow).

Now with the electric fan, it's simply not an issue.  The needle goes to 185
and stays there, even in heavy traffic.  Coming home from work last night
was just a smallish traffic jam, but I'd guess it took 30 minutes to cover 9
miles and the gauge never even reached the '5' in '185'.

-- Randall 

From greg at gelhar.com  Sat Mar 16 11:42:27 2013
From: greg at gelhar.com (greg at gelhar.com)
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2013 13:42:27 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 fuel line olive
In-Reply-To: <8CFF05F677BC17B-1E3C-A9FD@webmail-m232.sysops.aol.com>
References: <0D.76.04559.71B04415@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
	<8CFF05F677BC17B-1E3C-A9FD@webmail-m232.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <c7f5284434102d376d5190f5e809b8e5.squirrel@email.accountsupport.com>

> ---->  The posting does not say what that dimension should be.  Is that
number handy? -----


The ferrule is the same size as one for 5/16 tubing, but it has a 1/4 inch
hole for the fuel line tubing. The tubing nut is also the same thread size
as a 5/16 tubing nut.


Greg G.
Osseo, MN

From dconnitt at fuse.net  Sat Mar 16 12:21:21 2013
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2013 14:21:21 -0400
Subject: [TR] restoring/cleaning the plastic radiator overflow bottle
Message-ID: <F88CDDC8CAFC46F78E3E2A98B7FB1C68@DaveLaptop>

List,
Does anyone have any suggestions on cleaning/restoring my radiator overflow
bottle? I might also add that I have the original windshield washer fluid
bottle and would really like to use that too. The radiator overflow bottle
looks like it has the usual rust and coolant residue inside it so I was kind
of leaning towards trying CLR or something like that..
I already zinc plated the two original mounting brackets, now the original
bottles REALLY look crappy...
Thanks in advance,
Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A IRS
http://home.fuse..net/davestr4a

From zoboherald at aol.com  Sat Mar 16 12:31:46 2013
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace)
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2013 14:31:46 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] restoring/cleaning the plastic radiator overflow  bottle
In-Reply-To: <F88CDDC8CAFC46F78E3E2A98B7FB1C68@DaveLaptop>
References: <F88CDDC8CAFC46F78E3E2A98B7FB1C68@DaveLaptop>
Message-ID: <8CFF08BA6663621-B1C-BE99@Webmail-d124.sysops.aol.com>

 Automatic dishwashing detergents often help brighten those up quite a bit;
same with master cylinder reservoirs. Probably best not to run them through
the diswasher along with the good dinnerware, though.... ;)



--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us




-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Connitt <dconnitt at fuse.net>
To: triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, Mar 16, 2013 2:21 pm
Subject: [TR] restoring/cleaning the plastic radiator overflow bottle


List,
Does anyone have any suggestions on cleaning/restoring my radiator overflow
bottle? I might also add that I have the original windshield washer fluid
bottle and would really like to use that too. The radiator overflow bottle
looks like it has the usual rust and coolant residue inside it so I was kind
of leaning towards trying CLR or something like that..
I already zinc plated the two original mounting brackets, now the original
bottles REALLY look crappy...
Thanks in advance,
Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A IRS
http://home.fuse..net/davestr4a

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/zoboherald at aol.com

From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Sat Mar 16 12:43:37 2013
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2013 13:43:37 -0500
Subject: [TR] restoring/cleaning the plastic radiator overflow  bottle
In-Reply-To: <F88CDDC8CAFC46F78E3E2A98B7FB1C68@DaveLaptop>
References: <F88CDDC8CAFC46F78E3E2A98B7FB1C68@DaveLaptop>
Message-ID: <CAPK7CFB_C+A+Vpo+xiTUNxU25zKFnJMkfKCHP5JcPse3KDCk3A@mail.gmail.com>

One of the strongest cleaners I know is "SuperClean", a liquid
degreaser that comes in a purple bottle in any auto parts store and
some big-box stores.  Polyphosphate based detergent, IIRC.

The stuff is strong.  It's a very good degreaser. Good for
reblackening oxidized hard rubber.  Hard on some materials and
finishes so use with caution.  It does the best of any material I've
found on old plastics.  It's what I'd try.

Did I say it's strong?  Remember to tet it in any unknown finish,
including some platings. Can be used diluted, too.

I'm experimenting with Evapo-Rust rust remover right now.  This stuff
is kind of interesting. super on ferrous metals.  Dunno about stains
on plastic, but might be worth checking.

Don
1962 TR3B TSF202L


On 3/16/13, Dave Connitt <dconnitt at fuse.net> wrote:
> List,
> Does anyone have any suggestions on cleaning/restoring my radiator overflow
> bottle? I might also add that I have the original windshield washer fluid
> bottle and would really like to use that too. The radiator overflow bottle
> looks like it has the usual rust and coolant residue inside it so I was
> kind
> of leaning towards trying CLR or something like that..
> I already zinc plated the two original mounting brackets, now the original
> bottles REALLY look crappy...
> Thanks in advance,
> Dave Connitt
> '67 TR4A IRS
> http://home.fuse..net/davestr4a
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sat Mar 16 12:45:54 2013
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2013 11:45:54 -0700
Subject: [TR] restoring/cleaning the plastic radiator overflow  bottle
In-Reply-To: <F88CDDC8CAFC46F78E3E2A98B7FB1C68@DaveLaptop>
References: <F88CDDC8CAFC46F78E3E2A98B7FB1C68@DaveLaptop>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bGjkNmsv8yvzXpJrjBxgoMtA_+B+hyEh4btP2+CkKzp4g@mail.gmail.com>

I have used Soft Scrub with some success on such bottles -- though some of
the staining may be really in the plastic rather than on the surface and
that you may have to live with or replace

Geo

On Sat, Mar 16, 2013 at 11:21 AM, Dave Connitt <dconnitt at fuse.net> wrote:

> List,
> Does anyone have any suggestions on cleaning/restoring my radiator overflow
> bottle?

From dixie4.wales at virgin.net  Sat Mar 16 14:41:29 2013
From: dixie4.wales at virgin.net (Dixie4)
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2013 20:41:29 -0000
Subject: [TR] restoring/cleaning the plastic radiator overflow  bottle
In-Reply-To: <F88CDDC8CAFC46F78E3E2A98B7FB1C68@DaveLaptop>
References: <F88CDDC8CAFC46F78E3E2A98B7FB1C68@DaveLaptop>
Message-ID: <A23FBC7420D84AD6AC2CC1155213C445@AdrianPC>

Dave,

It may sound too simple but a complete submersion in cheapo household bleach 
for 48 hours worked for me. After treatment I noticed that the rad expansion 
bottle was slightly yellowed on the outside. A very light sanding on the 
outside with fine wet/dry paper worked perfectly. Bright white is for repro 
bottles only, the original ones were always an off white slightly creamy 
colour.
Oh! and by the way pour the bleach back in the bottle and use down the 
toilet in the normal way.
That is real recycling.
Regards,
Adrian
1966 TR4A CT64306 O
Wales UK
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt at fuse.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 16, 2013 6:21 PM
Subject: [TR] restoring/cleaning the plastic radiator overflow bottle


> List,
> Does anyone have any suggestions on cleaning/restoring my radiator 
> overflow
> bottle? I might also add that I have the original windshield washer fluid
> bottle and would really like to use that too. The radiator overflow bottle
> looks like it has the usual rust and coolant residue inside it so I was 
> kind
> of leaning towards trying CLR or something like that..
> I already zinc plated the two original mounting brackets, now the original
> bottles REALLY look crappy...
> Thanks in advance,
> Dave Connitt
> '67 TR4A IRS
> http://home.fuse..net/davestr4a
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dixie4.wales at virgin.net
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 2641/6180 - Release Date: 03/15/13

From mhooper at indiefilmnet.com  Sat Mar 16 18:00:00 2013
From: mhooper at indiefilmnet.com (Mark Hooper)
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2013 20:00:00 -0400
Subject: [TR] Distributor question
In-Reply-To: <513DF07C.5030709@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6f4ca18e.1ce22a2.6729efb9.2b9d@indiefilmnet.com>

A long time back I fitted my 1972 TR6 with a Crane Cams XR700 opto-electronic
ignition. It made starting much easier and being a gadget-guy I liked the
principle of the thing. No complaints.

My car has had a rather irregular idle forever. It's got a slightly warmed
cam, triple Strombergs and a Falcon SS exhaust fed by a 6:1 header. I replaced
the distributor's vacuum retard and that brought down the idle speed a great
deal, but it is still lopey/rough. I recall that the reason I put in the CC
ignition was to help with the idle, but it didn't.

Despite all sorts of valve adjustment, professional carb rebuilding etc, the
uneven idle persists. It was this way before the carbs and roller rockers were
put in. Nothing seems to affect it. The car drives very well and has very good
power through the rev range.

The question: I had thought that removing the points would have made any
looseness in the distributor shaft irrelevant. Was I wrong? Would having the
distributor re-bushed affect things, even if there are no longer any points
pushing on the shaft? I tire of hearing other's smoothly idling machines while
I have to rev the engine before jumping out to rapidly close the garage door
and then diving back in to goose the gas lest she quit.

Mark Hooper
1972 TR6 (should be called Old Lumpy, to my everlasting shame)

From dixie4.wales at virgin.net  Sat Mar 16 18:36:45 2013
From: dixie4.wales at virgin.net (Dixie4)
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2013 00:36:45 -0000
Subject: [TR] Distributor question
In-Reply-To: <6f4ca18e.1ce22a2.6729efb9.2b9d@indiefilmnet.com>
References: <6f4ca18e.1ce22a2.6729efb9.2b9d@indiefilmnet.com>
Message-ID: <A7484C523481466BB6DDE96B3471B406@AdrianPC>

I do believe that the rough idle has nothing to do with your distributor. 
>From what you describe I would be thinking air leak somewhere on the 
induction side. I would spray light oil around all the joints, flanges and 
inlet manifold with the engine running if the engine suddenly runs smooth 
there is your leak. Be careful if you opt for a WD40 spray or similar it is 
highly inflammable.

Adrian
1966 TR4A CT64306 O
Wales UK
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark Hooper" <mhooper at indiefilmnet.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 17, 2013 12:00 AM
Subject: [TR] Distributor question


>A long time back I fitted my 1972 TR6 with a Crane Cams XR700 
>opto-electronic
> ignition. It made starting much easier and being a gadget-guy I liked the
> principle of the thing. No complaints.
>
> My car has had a rather irregular idle forever. It's got a slightly warmed
> cam, triple Strombergs and a Falcon SS exhaust fed by a 6:1 header. I 
> replaced
> the distributor's vacuum retard and that brought down the idle speed a 
> great
> deal, but it is still lopey/rough. I recall that the reason I put in the 
> CC
> ignition was to help with the idle, but it didn't.
>
> Despite all sorts of valve adjustment, professional carb rebuilding etc, 
> the
> uneven idle persists. It was this way before the carbs and roller rockers 
> were
> put in. Nothing seems to affect it. The car drives very well and has very 
> good
> power through the rev range.
>
> The question: I had thought that removing the points would have made any
> looseness in the distributor shaft irrelevant. Was I wrong? Would having 
> the
> distributor re-bushed affect things, even if there are no longer any 
> points
> pushing on the shaft? I tire of hearing other's smoothly idling machines 
> while
> I have to rev the engine before jumping out to rapidly close the garage 
> door
> and then diving back in to goose the gas lest she quit.
>
> Mark Hooper
> 1972 TR6 (should be called Old Lumpy, to my everlasting shame)
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dixie4.wales at virgin.net
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 2641/6180 - Release Date: 03/15/13

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Mar 16 20:25:40 2013
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2013 19:25:40 -0700
Subject: [TR] Distributor question
In-Reply-To: <6f4ca18e.1ce22a2.6729efb9.2b9d@indiefilmnet.com>
Message-ID: <62.4A.25887.C9925415@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

As a friend of mine says, one test is worth a thousand theories.  Hook up a
timing light and watch what the timing does when the idle is rough.  If it
puts on a light show, you've got distributor problems.  If not, you need to
look elsewhere.

Next place to look would be carb synchronization.  The rubber hose trick is
good enough, just use a chunk of hose to listen to the hiss at each carb
intake.  If they all sound the same, the carbs are synchronized.

Adrian's suggestion of a vacuum leak is good, too.

When you've exhausted all other possibilities, I'd start being suspicious of
that "warmed over" cam.  It's not unheard-of for aftermarket parts to be
defective, and one lobe slightly out of place (or a bent camshaft) can
certainly affect idle quality.  Get a dial indicator and a degree wheel,
check that all the valves open and close when they should.

Although the Crane will compensate to a large extent for slop in the shaft,
it can't do anything for wear/damage to the centrifugal advance mechanism.

-- Randall 

From dave at ranteer.com  Sat Mar 16 20:53:05 2013
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2013 21:53:05 -0500
Subject: [TR] don't feel bad if your car won't start
Message-ID: <9056FADBEC684F0380B297AAF93E9E56@Datsun>

the 12 hours of sebring is running right now.

I quote from the news:

After running at or near the front of the GT field for the first nine hours,
the chances for a victory by the No. 91 SRT Motorsports SRT Viper GTS-R took a
significant blow when the car failed to start following a Ryan Dalziel pit
stop. The team lost eight minutes as a result.

From dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Mar 17 07:08:05 2013
From: dave1massey at cs.com (Dave Massey)
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2013 09:08:05 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Distributor question
In-Reply-To: <A7484C523481466BB6DDE96B3471B406@AdrianPC>
References: <6f4ca18e.1ce22a2.6729efb9.2b9d@indiefilmnet.com>
	<A7484C523481466BB6DDE96B3471B406@AdrianPC>
Message-ID: <8CFF12798DDE165-163C-155B1@webmail-m218.sysops.aol.com>

 Any aerosol oil will be flammable.  Not just because the oil will burn but
also because the propellant is a Propane/isobutane mix.  Even aerosol
insecticides, which are mostly water based, carry the flammability warning.

Be sure to use in a well ventilated area to allow the flammable gases to
dissipate.




Dave Massey






-----Original Message-----
From: Dixie4 <dixie4.wales at virgin.net>


I do believe that the rough idle has nothing to do with your distributor.
>From what you describe I would be thinking air leak somewhere on the
induction side. I would spray light oil around all the joints, flanges and
inlet manifold with the engine running if the engine suddenly runs smooth
there is your leak. Be careful if you opt for a WD40 spray or similar it is
highly inflammable.

Adrian

From dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Mar 17 07:43:09 2013
From: dave1massey at cs.com (Dave Massey)
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2013 09:43:09 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Distributor question
In-Reply-To: <6f4ca18e.1ce22a2.6729efb9.2b9d@indiefilmnet.com>
References: <6f4ca18e.1ce22a2.6729efb9.2b9d@indiefilmnet.com>
Message-ID: <8CFF12C7EFEDEC1-163C-158CF@webmail-m218.sysops.aol.com>

 Mark, when you say lumpy what is the period of the oscillations?  It could be
just the nature of the camshaft.  Large amounts of overlap can cause idle
hunting.

However, I solved a limpy idle with new hoses to the charcoal canister showing
that a vacuum leak can lurk anywhere.




Dave Massey






-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Hooper <mhooper at indiefilmnet.com>


A long time back I fitted my 1972 TR6 with a Crane Cams XR700 opto-electronic
ignition. It made starting much easier and being a gadget-guy I liked the
principle of the thing. No complaints.

My car has had a rather irregular idle forever. It's got a slightly warmed
cam, triple Strombergs and a Falcon SS exhaust fed by a 6:1 header. I
replaced
the distributor's vacuum retard and that brought down the idle speed a great
deal, but it is still lopey/rough. I recall that the reason I put in the CC
ignition was to help with the idle, but it didn't.

Despite all sorts of valve adjustment, professional carb rebuilding etc, the
uneven idle persists. It was this way before the carbs and roller rockers
were
put in. Nothing seems to affect it. The car drives very well and has very
good
power through the rev range.

The question: I had thought that removing the points would have made any
looseness in the distributor shaft irrelevant. Was I wrong? Would having the
distributor re-bushed affect things, even if there are no longer any points
pushing on the shaft? I tire of hearing other's smoothly idling machines
while
I have to rev the engine before jumping out to rapidly close the garage door
and then diving back in to goose the gas lest she quit.

Mark Hooper
1972 TR6 (should be called Old Lumpy, to my everlasting shame)

From terryrs at comcast.net  Sun Mar 17 07:49:21 2013
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2013 13:49:21 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Starter Problem
In-Reply-To: <8CFF12798DDE165-163C-155B1@webmail-m218.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <605511103.686081.1363528161458.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

When I did the restoration 10 years ago, I swapped out for a gear reduction starter.

Toward the end of last driving season, I frequently tried to start the car, but the starter would spin without engaging the flywheel.

This week, seems worse.

Since I just rebuilt the engine, I know there are no broken teeth on the flywheel. I expect it's the solenoid.  

Question...is there any experience with the solenoids on these after market gear reduction starters failing?

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A  TS 58667
New Hampshire

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Sun Mar 17 08:19:50 2013
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2013 10:19:50 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Starter Problem
Message-ID: <3c95c.7eff9d55.3e772b06@aol.com>

I have never had any solenoid issues with mine. But, I did have a problem  
with not getting the right engagement gear on the starter. I have an earlier 
TR3  than you, which had a bomb-type starter. However, apparently it had 
been fitted  with a later-type ring gear in error (maybe the earlier ring-gear 
wasn't  available at the time). So, I had to switch to a later type 
engagement gear on  the starter, despite having an earlier car, and that solved the 
problem. 
 
It's an unlikely cause, I know, but you may wish to consider compatibility  
between the ring gear and the starter's engagement gear.
 
Tim
 
 
 
In a message dated 17/03/2013 9:49:48 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
terryrs at comcast.net writes:

When I  did the restoration 10 years ago, I swapped out for a gear 
reduction  starter.

Toward the end of last driving season, I frequently tried to  start the 
car, but the starter would spin without engaging the  flywheel.

This week, seems worse.

Since I just rebuilt the  engine, I know there are no broken teeth on the 
flywheel. I expect it's the  solenoid.  

Question...is there any experience with the solenoids  on these after 
market gear reduction starters failing?

Terry Smith, '59  TR3A  TS 58667
New Hampshire

** triumphs at autox.team.net  **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:  
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/kingscreektrees at aol.com

From dave at ranteer.com  Sun Mar 17 09:35:49 2013
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2013 10:35:49 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 Starter Problem
In-Reply-To: <605511103.686081.1363528161458.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <605511103.686081.1363528161458.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1F9A5136E3BE4D5A994E8502BEAAC9A2@Datsun>

likely it is the location of the starter gear.  we had to use a spacer on my 
tr6 to get it right.  took a couple of tries to get the right width of 
spacer.  if the starter spins, then its probably not the solenoid.  someone 
correct/confirm me here, but if the solenoid is bad, you'll just get a 
click.

-----Original Message----- 
From: terryrs at comcast.net
Sent: Sunday, March 17, 2013 8:49 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3 Starter Problem

When I did the restoration 10 years ago, I swapped out for a gear reduction 
starter.

Toward the end of last driving season, I frequently tried to start the car, 
but the starter would spin without engaging the flywheel.

This week, seems worse.

Since I just rebuilt the engine, I know there are no broken teeth on the 
flywheel. I expect it's the solenoid.

Question...is there any experience with the solenoids on these after market 
gear reduction starters failing?

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A  TS 58667
New Hampshire 

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Mar 17 11:47:14 2013
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2013 10:47:14 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Starter Problem
In-Reply-To: <605511103.686081.1363528161458.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <5B.2E.04559.89106415@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> When I did the restoration 10 years ago, I swapped out for a 
> gear reduction starter.

Are you sure you got the right starter for the flywheel you have?  Your
description sounds exactly like what happens if you mate a starter designed
for the early flywheel to a later flywheel.  It works at first, but only the
very tips of the gear teeth are touching.  Soon the teeth wear down and it
starts to slip.

When this happened to a local club member (TR2 motor had a later flywheel,
go figure), he was able to get the starter vendor to supply the pinion for
the later flywheel.  Apparently it's an easy swap.

It's not impossible that the linkage to move the pinion gear is at fault,
but unlikely IMO.  The solenoid has to move before power is applied to the
motor, so if the motor is turning, the solenoid did its job.

-- Randall 

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Mar 17 11:51:29 2013
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2013 10:51:29 -0700
Subject: [TR] Distributor question
In-Reply-To: <8CFF12798DDE165-163C-155B1@webmail-m218.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <5A.C7.25887.79206415@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

>  Any aerosol oil will be flammable.

One of those "separated by a common language" things.  I'm sure Adrian meant
it will burn (hence the warning to be careful).

Personally I prefer to use "carb cleaner" as it leaves less of a mess.  It
will also burn easily, though.  But just keep your face away, generally if
it does catch fire the fire will go out quickly with a minimum of damage.

-- Randall 

From dconnitt at fuse.net  Sun Mar 17 12:10:28 2013
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2013 14:10:28 -0400
Subject: [TR] Zinc Plating  long parts with Caswell zinc plating kit..
Message-ID: <58899C05EE7F4AB8B2A172E627CC8991@DaveLaptop>

List,
I just wanted to pass along an little nugget regarding zinc plating. Last
summer I bought a zinc plating kit from Caswell Plating. I wanted to re-plate
all the small linkages while restoring my SU carbs. That turned out pretty
well so I started doing other things, working my way up to larger and larger
pieces such as the hood latch.
I was eyeing that telescoping trunk stay rod but it was too long, almost 2
feet when extended.  Well, I was walking thru the local hardware store totally
looking for something else when I noticed a giant plastic roller tray. The
thing is just a bit over 2 feet wide..  I bought it and when I got home, I
found that if I tilted it up at about 45 degrees, I ended up with a "tank" 2
feet long, about 4 inches wide and about 3 inches deep. Perfect!!
I used the original tank to heat the plating solution, then poured it into the
tray. I layed the two zinc anodes down along the edge of the tank and it
worked great.  Now I need to go thru my other parts  to see if there is
anything else I can plate.
I updated my website with pictures of the tank as I was plating one of the
steering column pieces.
http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a

go to Final Finishes, then click on zinc plating.

Just had to share that.

Also, shameless plug.. Since my autopainting career is over, I am intersted in
selling my air supplied respirator if anyone is interested. There is a picture
of it in the Tools section.

Zinc plating is actually very easy to do with the Caswell kit and not that
expensive. If you already have a way to clean the parts, even a bench type
wire wheel, you can do this and the results are quite good..

Still waiting on my Advance Auto-Wire harness (2 weeks to go .. I hope)

Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A IRS

From dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Mar 17 16:13:21 2013
From: dave1massey at cs.com (Dave Massey)
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2013 18:13:21 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Distributor question
In-Reply-To: <5A.C7.25887.79206415@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
References: <5A.C7.25887.79206415@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <8CFF173C544CEBA-16E4-1C95F@webmail-m213.sysops.aol.com>

An unlit propane torch leaves even less residue and since there is no liquid
any flames will extinguish as soon as you pull away.  The torch may still be
lit but that's what it's designed to do.





Dave






-----Original Message-----
From: Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>

>  Any aerosol oil will be flammable.One of those "separated by a common
language" things.  I'm sure Adrian meantit will burn (hence the warning to be
careful).Personally I prefer to use "carb cleaner" as it leaves less of a
mess.  Itwill also burn easily, though.  But just keep your face away,
generally ifit does catch fire the fire will go out quickly with a minimum of
damage.-- Randall **

From ptegler at verizon.net  Sun Mar 17 22:11:05 2013
From: ptegler at verizon.net (ptegler)
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2013 00:11:05 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 Starter Problem
References: <605511103.686081.1363528161458.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <F22CF68FD012443FB0B3399F9B9A5D32@dragonlairii>

depending on your old/new starters..... the gears hit the ring gear from 
opposite sides.
The teeth don't have the taper on them so engagement can be hit and miss.
btdt....
solenoid is fine..... but with no engagement the gear spins...up against, 
rather than engaged with, the ring gear

Paul Tegler
ptegler at verizon.net
www.teglerizer.com
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <terryrs at comcast.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 17, 2013 9:49 AM
Subject: [TR] TR3 Starter Problem


> When I did the restoration 10 years ago, I swapped out for a gear 
> reduction starter.
>
> Toward the end of last driving season, I frequently tried to start the 
> car, but the starter would spin without engaging the flywheel.
>
> This week, seems worse.
>
> Since I just rebuilt the engine, I know there are no broken teeth on the 
> flywheel. I expect it's the solenoid.
>
> Question...is there any experience with the solenoids on these after 
> market gear reduction starters failing?
>
> Terry Smith, '59 TR3A  TS 58667
> New Hampshire
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net 

From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com  Mon Mar 18 11:02:56 2013
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2013 10:02:56 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] restoring/cleaning the plastic radiator overflow bottle
Message-ID: <1363626176.87757.YahooMailNeo@web160106.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Hi List!
Check the archives, because this topic was discussed about 1 -> 1 1/2
yr. ago. I may have saved it but I can't get to the computor that the info.
was stored on. The person that brought up this topic the first time, even gave
an address (link) to go to to order the stuff he used.
 
Sorry that I can't
give you more info. to go on.

-Cosmo Kramer

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Mon Mar 18 20:54:23 2013
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (auprichard at uprichard.net)
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2013 19:54:23 -0700
Subject: [TR] restoring/cleaning the plastic radiator overflow  bottle
Message-ID: <20130318195423.cc417d1143af569a8ff505da34dda84d.b0e313343c.wbe@email09.secureserver.net>


From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Mon Mar 18 22:02:55 2013
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 2013 21:02:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] WTB Early TR4 Temp Gauge
Message-ID: <1363665775.85315.YahooMailNeo@web180901.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

     I am looking for an early TR4 curved glass electric temperature gauge.
Does anyone have one that they would sell?
     

    
http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Triumph-TR4-TR3-Original-Jaeger-Water-Temp-Gauge-Teste
d-VGC-/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/z/~ZUAAMXQySpRIauI/$%28KGrHqRHJFcFEQD6Sri%28BRI,uIFS
KQ~~60_35.JPG

     If no one has one, does anyone have any recommendations on
where to look for one? There aren't any on Ebay at the moment.
     TIA,

    
Bill in Tehachapi

From trdoctor at aol.com  Sun Mar 17 17:23:51 2013
From: trdoctor at aol.com (Sam)
Date: Sun, 17 Mar 2013 18:23:51 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR8 Power Steering
Message-ID: <D8362682-3A27-41AD-9324-DEB244182BB0@aol.com>

Greetings!
My buddy and I are trying to change out a power steering pump on a 1980 TR8
and are having fits.  We don't have a comprehensive manual and we are flying
blind.  Has anyone out there successively accomplished this?  It looks to me
like the pulley needs to be removed first, but, there isn't enough room to get
anything in there to do it.  Does the radiator need to be removed?  Any help
would be appreciated.
TIA for any information or where to look for a GOOD manual.
Sam

From jmwagner at greenheart.com  Tue Mar 19 23:22:12 2013
From: jmwagner at greenheart.com (J. Wagner)
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2013 22:22:12 -0700
Subject: [TR] 1966 Triumph TR-4A IRS - Barn Find : )
Message-ID: <1FB4929F-2062-4425-8B7B-F366DBA39FD3@greenheart.com>

If this car could talk!


http://orlando.craigslist.org/cto/3632097940.html

From mark at bradakis.com  Tue Mar 19 23:34:40 2013
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Tue, 19 Mar 2013 23:34:40 -0600
Subject: [TR] 1966 Triumph TR-4A IRS - Barn Find : )
In-Reply-To: <1FB4929F-2062-4425-8B7B-F366DBA39FD3@greenheart.com>
References: <1FB4929F-2062-4425-8B7B-F366DBA39FD3@greenheart.com>
Message-ID: <51494A70.9070702@bradakis.com>

J. Wagner wrote:
> If this car could talk!
>
>
> http://orlando.craigslist.org/cto/3632097940.html
>

Would love to have another 4A.  And my 250 back.  But for now I'll just 
work on
getting my clapped out squaretail Spit back together and on the road.

mjb.

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Wed Mar 20 05:53:40 2013
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2013 07:53:40 -0400
Subject: [TR] 1966 Triumph TR-4A IRS - Barn Find : )
In-Reply-To: <1FB4929F-2062-4425-8B7B-F366DBA39FD3@greenheart.com>
References: <1FB4929F-2062-4425-8B7B-F366DBA39FD3@greenheart.com>
Message-ID: <5149A344.9060704@adelphia.net>

The car would say: Why did you let me rust out!

This car would be a challenge. If the rust visible in the floors and 
boot are as bad as it looks, the frame is toast. Looks to me a parts car 
only, but at 1800 could be a good buy if the OD is in good condition.

Bob

On 03/20/2013 01:22 AM, J. Wagner wrote:
> If this car could talk!

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Wed Mar 20 06:28:28 2013
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2013 08:28:28 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] 1966 Triumph TR-4A IRS - Barn Find : )
Message-ID: <49e6d.2b32d585.3e7b056b@aol.com>

Great find......not sure how much it would cost to bring to a level to sell 
 for $20,000+ but for a "labor of love", it's a pretty cool find!
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA 
1962 TR4  CT2052L
 
 
In a message dated 3/20/2013 1:28:20 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
jmwagner at greenheart.com writes:

If this  car could  talk!


http://orlando.craigslist.org/cto/3632097940.html

**  triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:  
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/chip19474 at aol.com

From dave at ranteer.com  Wed Mar 20 07:56:12 2013
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2013 08:56:12 -0500
Subject: [TR] 1966 Triumph TR-4A IRS - Barn Find : )
In-Reply-To: <1FB4929F-2062-4425-8B7B-F366DBA39FD3@greenheart.com>
References: <1FB4929F-2062-4425-8B7B-F366DBA39FD3@greenheart.com>
Message-ID: <FECEAF1B2A434D26BD2DBF12757009A0@Datsun>

"restored you could sell for $20,000"

I wonder how much you would lose . . . . .

-----Original Message----- 
From: J. Wagner 
Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2013 12:22 AM 
To: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Subject: [TR] 1966 Triumph TR-4A IRS - Barn Find : ) 

If this car could talk!


http://orlando.craigslist.org/cto/3632097940.html

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Wed Mar 20 09:31:58 2013
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2013 11:31:58 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Two Keys For Free!
Message-ID: <8f6b.65590361.3e7b306e@aol.com>

List,
 
I was digging through some stuff and came upon two keys on a small ring  
with the number FS 923 on each key.
 
They don't fit any locks on my TR4 nor do I think they were for the TR6 or  
Spitifre I owned recently so I don't have a clue what they fit or where 
they  came from.  They look very new so maybe I got them from a "mystery bag"  
door prize???
 
Anyway, if anyone wants them, please let me know and I'll mail them to  you.
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA 
1962 TR4  CT2052L

From trguy75 at gmail.com  Wed Mar 20 11:17:36 2013
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen)
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2013 13:17:36 -0400
Subject: [TR] Transmission Woes
In-Reply-To: <8f6b.65590361.3e7b306e@aol.com>
References: <8f6b.65590361.3e7b306e@aol.com>
Message-ID: <CD4109C2-A15B-4D47-9789-015C852BC6F4@gmail.com>

List:
I have a jtype od transmission that was rebuilt about 8 years ago.  Started
having third gear grinding issues on hard acceleration and deceleration  (auto
cross and spirited driving) so had new German made brass synchros installed
about 2 years ago. Got rid of Taiwanese synchros installed during original
rebuild as we thought that was the issue. The new German synchros didn't solve
the problem.  The tranny shifts fine at lower rpms, but when I goose it and
want powershifts it grinds slightly going into third (from second and fourth)
and a little on the hard down shifts in second.  Hard shifts are revving up to
5500 rpms.  The clutch was rebuilt about 10 years ago with a Borg and beck,
and guest throw out bearing.  Clutch looked fine when we inspected on latest
synchro change.

Any ideas what this could be?

Thanks,
Jim Henningsen
Ocala, FL
75 TR6
62 TR4

Sent from my iPad

On Mar 20, 2013, at 11:31 AM, Chip19474 at aol.com wrote:

> List,
>
> I was digging through some stuff and came upon two keys on a small ring
> with the number FS 923 on each key.
>
> They don't fit any locks on my TR4 nor do I think they were for the TR6 or
> Spitifre I owned recently so I don't have a clue what they fit or where
> they  came from.  They look very new so maybe I got them from a "mystery
bag"
> door prize???
>
> Anyway, if anyone wants them, please let me know and I'll mail them to
you.
>
> Chip Krout
> Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
> Skippack, PA
> 1962 TR4  CT2052L
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trguy75 at gmail.com

From trguy75 at gmail.com  Wed Mar 20 11:19:19 2013
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen)
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2013 13:19:19 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR8 Wheel and Tire Upgrade
Message-ID: <BDFAC7A8-DFCE-44BB-8190-A60C0D96A0A4@gmail.com>

Friend of mine has a stock 15k mile orig TR8 and wants to install 15 inch
wheels and rims.  What is the best tire profile (width and height) for that
size on the 8
Thanks,
Jim Henningsen
Ocala, FL

From dave at ranteer.com  Wed Mar 20 11:38:11 2013
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2013 12:38:11 -0500
Subject: [TR] Transmission Woes
In-Reply-To: <CD4109C2-A15B-4D47-9789-015C852BC6F4@gmail.com>
References: <8f6b.65590361.3e7b306e@aol.com>
	<CD4109C2-A15B-4D47-9789-015C852BC6F4@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <53811AC13DF74A2FBF0B0D83F948219A@Datsun>

since I saw this post I thought I would contribute a similar tale of woe.

I had my od tranny rebuilt, and then rebuilt twice more under warranty 
because sometimes it shifts smoothly up or down, and sometimes it grinds. 
this guy has done numerous boxes, but they couldn't resolve the issue.

I haven't noticed whether it matters if I am "powering" into the shifts.

-----Original Message----- 
From: Jim Henningsen
Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2013 12:17 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Transmission Woes

List:
I have a jtype od transmission that was rebuilt about 8 years ago.  Started
having third gear grinding issues on hard acceleration and deceleration 
(auto
cross and spirited driving) so had new German made brass synchros installed
about 2 years ago. Got rid of Taiwanese synchros installed during original
rebuild as we thought that was the issue. The new German synchros didn't 
solve
the problem.  The tranny shifts fine at lower rpms, but when I goose it and
want powershifts it grinds slightly going into third (from second and 
fourth)
and a little on the hard down shifts in second.  Hard shifts are revving up 
to
5500 rpms.  The clutch was rebuilt about 10 years ago with a Borg and beck,
and guest throw out bearing.  Clutch looked fine when we inspected on latest
synchro change.

Any ideas what this could be?

Thanks,
Jim Henningsen
Ocala, FL
75 TR6
62 TR4 

From wbeech at flash.net  Wed Mar 20 12:17:07 2013
From: wbeech at flash.net (WBEECH)
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2013 13:17:07 -0500
Subject: [TR] Transmission Woes
In-Reply-To: <53811AC13DF74A2FBF0B0D83F948219A@Datsun>
References: <8f6b.65590361.3e7b306e@aol.com>
	<CD4109C2-A15B-4D47-9789-015C852BC6F4@gmail.com>
	<53811AC13DF74A2FBF0B0D83F948219A@Datsun>
Message-ID: <91C6CF83-2B4D-4D2F-9549-FEA0A9215774@flash.net>

Add me to the list, same issues on my '58 TR3a.  New syncros, same problem.

Sent from mobile Bill

On Mar 20, 2013, at 12:38 PM, "Dave" <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:

since I saw this post I thought I would contribute a similar tale of woe.

I had my od tranny rebuilt, and then rebuilt twice more under warranty because
sometimes it shifts smoothly up or down, and sometimes it grinds. this guy has
done numerous boxes, but they couldn't resolve the issue.

I haven't noticed whether it matters if I am "powering" into the shifts.

-----Original Message----- From: Jim Henningsen
Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2013 12:17 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Transmission Woes

List:
I have a jtype od transmission that was rebuilt about 8 years ago.  Started
having third gear grinding issues on hard acceleration and deceleration (auto
cross and spirited driving) so had new German made brass synchros installed
about 2 years ago. Got rid of Taiwanese synchros installed during original
rebuild as we thought that was the issue. The new German synchros didn't
solve
the problem.  The tranny shifts fine at lower rpms, but when I goose it and
want powershifts it grinds slightly going into third (from second and fourth)
and a little on the hard down shifts in second.  Hard shifts are revving up
to
5500 rpms.  The clutch was rebuilt about 10 years ago with a Borg and beck,
and guest throw out bearing.  Clutch looked fine when we inspected on latest
synchro change.

Any ideas what this could be?

Thanks,
Jim Henningsen
Ocala, FL
75 TR6
62 TR4
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From McGaheyRx at aol.com  Wed Mar 20 12:55:38 2013
From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (Jack Mc)
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2013 14:55:38 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR8 Wheel and Tire Upgrade
In-Reply-To: <BDFAC7A8-DFCE-44BB-8190-A60C0D96A0A4@gmail.com>
References: <BDFAC7A8-DFCE-44BB-8190-A60C0D96A0A4@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <E9A05A82-1DFE-4365-AE68-547D4509D1AB@aol.com>

205/50 15s are great, but MAY rub depending on ride height of the car and
weight the car is carrying, as well as the specific tire used. Had one set
that never rubbed at all. with another set, i had a right rear rub in one TR8
that varied in severity depending on the weight of the passenger - same set
had a front rub on another TR8 that had a lower ride height.

Have a set of 195/50 15s now that has had no issues on any of our TR8s.

Cheers,
Jack Mc

Sent from my iPad

On Mar 20, 2013, at 1:19 PM, Jim Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Friend of mine has a stock 15k mile orig TR8 and wants to install 15 inch
> wheels and rims.  What is the best tire profile (width and height) for that
> size on the 8
> Thanks,
> Jim Henningsen
> Ocala, FL
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mcgaheyrx at aol.com

From hdrider570 at att.net  Wed Mar 20 13:23:33 2013
From: hdrider570 at att.net (hdrider570 at att.net)
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2013 12:23:33 -0700
Subject: [TR] Transmission Woes (Dave)
Message-ID: <514A0CB5.7000802@att.net>

The problem is that you are expecting your transmission to act like a 
M22 "Rock-crusher" transmission.  It is not that nor was it ever 
designed to be.  It's a 40's design with added first gear syncro's.

The best thing to do is use modern synthetic oil like Redline MTL and 
treat it with a bit of respect.  Learn to double declutch and remember 
that everyone that you are competing against is using the same 
technology so it is an even playing field.

If that does not suit your fancy then get a Tr7/8 with a 5 speed or 
modify your car with Herman's conversion set up.

Edward Hamer
Petaluma CA

From dave at ranteer.com  Wed Mar 20 14:16:01 2013
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2013 15:16:01 -0500
Subject: [TR] Transmission Woes (Dave)
In-Reply-To: <514A0CB5.7000802@att.net>
References: <514A0CB5.7000802@att.net>
Message-ID: <DE97A7C6F96341989936F4F71191D343@Datsun>

with all due respect, the tranny that came in the car behaved just fine.

the problem is in this replacement od tranny.  and it has nothing to do with 
the od.  oil is redline.

I have driven and owned numerous british cars.  so, no, its not that my 
expectations are wrong.  I am not abusing the thing,
just expecting to act like a normal british transmission.  mine does not.

there is a problem.

-----Original Message----- 
From: hdrider570 at att.net
Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2013 2:23 PM
To: Triumphs at Autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Transmission Woes (Dave)

The problem is that you are expecting your transmission to act like a
M22 "Rock-crusher" transmission.  It is not that nor was it ever
designed to be.  It's a 40's design with added first gear syncro's.

The best thing to do is use modern synthetic oil like Redline MTL and
treat it with a bit of respect.  Learn to double declutch and remember
that everyone that you are competing against is using the same
technology so it is an even playing field.

If that does not suit your fancy then get a Tr7/8 with a 5 speed or
modify your car with Herman's conversion set up.

Edward Hamer
Petaluma CA

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Mar 20 14:45:09 2013
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2013 20:45:09 +0000
Subject: [TR] Transmission Woes
In-Reply-To: <CD4109C2-A15B-4D47-9789-015C852BC6F4@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20130320204509.VORTL.97415.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>

---- Jim Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com> wrote: 
> List:
> I have a jtype od transmission that was rebuilt about 8 years ago.  Started
> having third gear grinding issues on hard acceleration and deceleration  (auto
> cross and spirited driving) so had new German made brass synchros installed
> about 2 years ago. Got rid of Taiwanese synchros installed during original
> rebuild as we thought that was the issue. The new German synchros didn't solve
> the problem.  

My first thought would be the clutch or pilot bearing dragging.  Do you have the proper "dowel bolts" to precisely locate the gearbox to the engine plate?  How are the thrust washers?  How far off the floor does the clutch start to engage?

Next I'd be looking at things like the detent force in the shift hubs, excess play in the thrust washers/bushings, and wear on the gears.  There's a lot more to shifting than just synchro rings; and not everyone checks those things when doing a rebuild.  Note that even new bushings are frequently too short and/or the wrong diameter.  Last time I did a gearbox, I bought two of each and still wound up having to reuse the old ones.  Had to have Herman make some spacers, too.

How much clearance was there between the face of the new synchro rings and the dog teeth, with the synchro seated on the cone?  IIRC it should be at least .050".

Last, although not too likely I think, be sure your shift rings match your dog teeth.  There was a subtle change in production, and mixing parts can cause problems.  I know someone who spent years trying to figure out why a freshly rebuilt box would jump out of gear, and that was eventually discovered to be the problem.
http://goo.gl/FjDq3

Randall

From bill_beecher at flash.net  Wed Mar 20 17:01:02 2013
From: bill_beecher at flash.net (Bill_Beecher)
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2013 18:01:02 -0500
Subject: [TR] Tr3 rad hose
Message-ID: <D73DB420-D5D2-4806-A099-CBC01DE953CF@flash.net>

Just opened my complete hose & clamp set for the TR3B only to find two lower
sections of the 2-pc lower radiator connection and no upper hose.  Has anyone
found suitable substitutes at local FLAPS locations.  Don't want to go the
flex route if I don't have to.

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Wed Mar 20 17:23:44 2013
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2013 16:23:44 -0700
Subject: [TR] Tr3 rad hose
In-Reply-To: <D73DB420-D5D2-4806-A099-CBC01DE953CF@flash.net>
References: <D73DB420-D5D2-4806-A099-CBC01DE953CF@flash.net>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bFy4h3cS+uQNZNaLEowLjw1NnJd_QjnHO0ne7WYGXoVxQ@mail.gmail.com>

My recolleciton is that on a TR3 (3A/3B) the two hoses are identical.  It's
on the TR4 that the lower hose is different.

Geo

On Wed, Mar 20, 2013 at 4:01 PM, Bill_Beecher <bill_beecher at flash.net>wrote:

> Just opened my complete hose & clamp set for the TR3B only to find two
> lower
> sections of the 2-pc lower radiator connection and no upper hose...

From dave at ranteer.com  Thu Mar 21 14:49:04 2013
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2013 15:49:04 -0500
Subject: [TR] completely off topic
Message-ID: <8715FEC98AE44F5AB8A3101E33330EE4@Datsun>

hi.

this came out of my dadbs workshop.  hebs no longer alive, so I canbt
ask him.

anyone know what this stuff is?  whatbs it for?

http://www.ranteer.com/misc/

thanks!

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Mar 21 15:05:33 2013
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2013 17:05:33 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] completely off topic
Message-ID: <311.622d4537.3e7cd01d@cs.com>

I dunno.  Not much comes up on a google search.  But McMaster Carr carries 
Aluminum Oxide abrasives and they say these are good for grinding and 
polishing high tensile materials such as carbon steel.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#aluminum-oxide-powders/=lz91pt

Looks like blasting media.

Dave

In a message dated 3/21/2013 3:52:22 PM Central Daylight Time, 
dave at ranteer.com writes: 
> hi.
> 
> this came out of my dadbs workshop.  hebs no longer alive, so I canbt
> ask him.
> 
> anyone know what this stuff is?  whatbs it for?
> 
> http://www.ranteer.com/misc/

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Thu Mar 21 15:18:36 2013
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2013 17:18:36 -0400
Subject: [TR] Lift-a-dot studs
Message-ID: <001d01ce2679$a8bdc370$fa394a50$@uprichard.net>

List:

I am just completing the restoration of a small-mouth TR3 and when I fitted
the soft-top, I could no longer get  2 lift-a-dot studs to reach the
threads.  They are the two studs which go through a cover piece and then the
webbing for the soft-top frame.

My questions are:  do they make a stud with a longer thread and does anyone
have two they would sell me?

Andrew Uprichard

From FPrecht at frostburg.edu  Thu Mar 21 15:24:25 2013
From: FPrecht at frostburg.edu (Francis Precht)
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2013 21:24:25 +0000
Subject: [TR] completely off topic
In-Reply-To: <8715FEC98AE44F5AB8A3101E33330EE4@Datsun>
References: <8715FEC98AE44F5AB8A3101E33330EE4@Datsun>
Message-ID: <1E19542D5605AC488BEFC4FFEA008A4A1225BBF1@BLUPRD0712MB625.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>

from "Creative Chemistry'"   pg 251

"Before the introduction of the artificial abrasives fine grinding was mostly
done by emery, which is an impure form of aluminum oxide found in nature.  A
purer form is made from the mineral bauxite by driving off its combined water.
Bauxite is the ore from which is made the pure aluminum oxide used in the
electric furnace for the production of metallic aluminum.  Formerly we
imported a large part of our bauxite from France, but when the war shut off
this source we developed our domestic fields in Arkansas, Alabama and Georgia,
and these are now producing half a million tons a year.  Bauxite simply fused
in the electric furnace makes a better abrasive than the natural emery or
corundum, and it is sold for this purpose under the name of aloxite,
alundum, exolon, lionite or coralox.  When the fused bauxite is worked
up with a bonding material into crucibles or muffles and baked in a kiln it
forms the alundum refractory ware.  Since alundum is porous and not attacked
by acids it is used for filtering hot and corrosive liquids that would eat up
filter-paper.  Carborundum or crystolon is also made up into refractory ware
for high temperature work.  When the fused mass of the carborundum furnace is
broken up there is found surrounding the carborundum core a similar substance
though not quite so hard and infusible, known as carborundum sand or
siloxicon.  This is mixed with fireclay and used for furnace linings."

found in project gutenberg    from
http://www.bookrags.com/ebooks/17149/137.html    or
http://books.google.com/books?id=aw4NAAAAYAAJ&pg=PA251&lpg=PA251&dq=lionite+e
lectric+furnace+abrasive&source=bl&ots=q_XUgJVNQ0&sig=nNKWfd3Phm0P0bgj7Axp0SV
dgOg&hl=en&sa=X&ei=I3hLUdjPH6-l4AOFo4GoDw&ved=0CFoQ6AEwAw#v=onepage&q=lionite
%20electric%20furnace%20abrasive&f=false

hope this helps

bud precht
frostburg, maryland

'65 tr4a

From lee at automate-it.com  Thu Mar 21 15:24:47 2013
From: lee at automate-it.com (Lee Daniels)
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2013 16:24:47 -0500
Subject: [TR] completely off topic
In-Reply-To: <8715FEC98AE44F5AB8A3101E33330EE4@Datsun>
References: <8715FEC98AE44F5AB8A3101E33330EE4@Datsun>
Message-ID: <fab3a3ff57563f724f8947c2225a6efb.squirrel@www.automate-it.com>

Well, according to the label, it's 100-grit Aluminum Oxide, from General
Abrasive. (Sorry, slap me now.) The name "Lionblast" implies that it might be
suitable for sandblasting - Aluminum oxide (Al2O3) is really hard and can be
reused after blasting. The mineral form is called corundum - also sold as a
grinding agent. It's interesting that pure Al2O3 is colorless, but the
finely-ground corundum that I used in a previous life was always a black
powder - probably due to inclusions of other minerals in the crystal lattice.

And the name "Lionite" did pop up on a search. See:
  http://www.granitecitytoolvt.com/sandblastabrasivelionitepf.htm

> anyone know what this stuff is?  whatb's it for?
>
> http://www.ranteer.com/misc/

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Thu Mar 21 15:28:38 2013
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2013 17:28:38 -0400
Subject: [TR] completely off topic
In-Reply-To: <311.622d4537.3e7cd01d@cs.com>
References: <311.622d4537.3e7cd01d@cs.com>
Message-ID: <CANhzkeML6hBA7Gw4bvGnb7AtcT1FxWMg2Ph0zLYbVnvha5Fm9A@mail.gmail.com>

My bet is abrasive for cleaning spark plugs
On Mar 21, 2013 5:11 PM, <Dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:

> I dunno.  Not much comes up on a google search.  But McMaster Carr carries
> Aluminum Oxide abrasives and they say these are good for grinding and
> polishing high tensile materials such as carbon steel.
>
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#aluminum-oxide-powders/=lz91pt
>
> Looks like blasting media.
>
> Dave
>
> In a message dated 3/21/2013 3:52:22 PM Central Daylight Time,
> dave at ranteer.com writes:
> > hi.
> >
> > this came out of my dadb s workshop.  heb s no longer alive, so I canb t
> > ask him.
> >
> > anyone know what this stuff is?  whatb s it for?
> >
> > http://www.ranteer.com/misc/
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ccsimonsen at gmail.com

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Mar 21 16:23:26 2013
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2013 22:23:26 +0000
Subject: [TR] completely off topic
In-Reply-To: <311.622d4537.3e7cd01d@cs.com>
Message-ID: <20130321222326.3PS47.103490.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>

---- Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: 
> I dunno.  Not much comes up on a google search. 

I must have Google really well trained or something.  The second match I got pointed to a brochure for the stuff:
http://goo.gl/EibKL
"For abrasive blasting, wet or dry, of Metal, Glass, Ceramics, Wood, Rubber, Plastic, Stone and other materials"

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Mar 21 16:31:48 2013
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2013 22:31:48 +0000
Subject: [TR] Lift-a-dot studs
In-Reply-To: <001d01ce2679$a8bdc370$fa394a50$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <20130321223149.G7AUE.103550.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>

---- Andrew Uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net> wrote: 

> My questions are:  do they make a stud with a longer thread and does anyone
> have two they would sell me?

Yes, TRF sells them under part number 552670.  On sale at the moment, so I'm reasonably confident they have them in stock (or will soon).

On a side note, many of the old studs I have seem to have a darker, yellower finish than chrome; more like nickel or maybe German silver.  Anyone know what the originals were plated with?

Randall

From dave at ranteer.com  Thu Mar 21 17:00:26 2013
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2013 18:00:26 -0500
Subject: [TR] completely off topic
In-Reply-To: <20130321222326.3PS47.103490.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>
References: <20130321222326.3PS47.103490.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>
Message-ID: <8422204AC0E74483B951BA6257269626@Datsun>

thanks to all!  it is an extremely fine powder.  the question I don't get to 
ask is what he was doing with it?  he wasn't that mechanical, although he 
did a lot of home repairs like wiring and very rough carpentry.

he would have been 95 last week.

-----Original Message----- 
From: Randall
Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2013 5:23 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net ; Dave1massey at cs.com
Subject: Re: [TR] completely off topic

---- Dave1massey at cs.com wrote:
> I dunno.  Not much comes up on a google search.

I must have Google really well trained or something.  The second match I got 
pointed to a brochure for the stuff:
http://goo.gl/EibKL
"For abrasive blasting, wet or dry, of Metal, Glass, Ceramics, Wood, Rubber, 
Plastic, Stone and other materials"

Randall 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Mar 21 17:41:40 2013
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2013 23:41:40 +0000
Subject: [TR] completely off topic
In-Reply-To: <8422204AC0E74483B951BA6257269626@Datsun>
Message-ID: <20130321234141.YKTDB.103857.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>

---- Dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote: 
> thanks to all!  it is an extremely fine powder.  the question I don't get to 
> ask is what he was doing with it?  

I like the theory that it was for spark plug cleaning.  "Back when", anyone with a lawnmower or chainsaw might have one of those little hand-held cleaners.  And the abrasive was pretty fine, since it wasn't supposed to damage the ceramic or metal.

Couldn't find a photo of the one I was thinking of, but here's an interesting relic on ebay:
http://goo.gl/hqqTV

Randall

From dixie4.wales at virgin.net  Thu Mar 21 18:53:01 2013
From: dixie4.wales at virgin.net (Dixie4)
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2013 00:53:01 -0000
Subject: [TR] Roll over Spit/Rotisserie for a TR4A
Message-ID: <E8B1AC65277A448C829855FC498840C1@AdrianPC>

A good few years ago I stripped my TR4A solid axle type car down to a rolling
shell and started a bare metal restoration. As many must know, business and
other outside factors get in the way of a restoration so work ground to a halt
back in 2003.
Now ten years have passed and with my business sold I have to start up the
restoration once again.
Of course I am now ten years older and a sufferer of myeloma. My mobility is
not as good as it should be. So, I thought to myself, I have to devise
something to make the restoration easier. That is when I thought of a
spit/rotisserie.

Has anyone on the list ever devised a roll over spit/rotisserie that can swing
a stripped out TR through 360 degrees?

If they have, do they have assembly plans to share? Even a pencil sketch and
approx sizes would do.

On the Internet I can find ready made ones for sale for other British cars.
Honestly they look very flimsy and are only for mono body shells without a
separate chassis. I am sure the centre of gravity would be entirely different
and the TR much heavier. However, buying one ready made would take out the fun
and lighten my pocket somewhat, which is even less fun. I am fully committed
to designing and making one from scratch. As it will be used only once it must
be as cost effective as possible by using recycled steel box section and round
tube.

Even if no one on the list has actually constructed one I would like to hear
any views and opinions on the idea and any suggestions as to what features
should be included.

Adrian
1966 TR4A CT64306 O
Wales UK

From wbeech at flash.net  Thu Mar 21 19:51:12 2013
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2013 20:51:12 -0500
Subject: [TR] Roll over Spit/Rotisserie for a TR4A
In-Reply-To: <E8B1AC65277A448C829855FC498840C1@AdrianPC>
References: <E8B1AC65277A448C829855FC498840C1@AdrianPC>
Message-ID: <13986D01E1524486AB56AC67FC0AD64D@bboffice>

Adrian,

Don't know how involved you want to get or if you are or have acess to a
good welder but here is one that will do the job nicely: 
http://www.autobody101.com/rotisserie_plans.pdf

Or this one:
http://www.mts.net/~hpokrant/Restoration_Tips/1-Rotisserie/Rotisserie.htm

OR, for less money they are relatively easily made using two engine stands.
A TR4 body should be light enough not to over-tax them. IF you Google Engine
Stand Rotisserie you should get a good variety of designs.

Hope this works for you,
Bill



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dixie4
Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2013 7:53 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Roll over Spit/Rotisserie for a TR4A

A good few years ago I stripped my TR4A solid axle type car down to a
rolling shell and started a bare metal restoration. As many must know,
business and other outside factors get in the way of a restoration so work
ground to a halt back in 2003.
Now ten years have passed and with my business sold I have to start up the
restoration once again.
Of course I am now ten years older and a sufferer of myeloma. My mobility is
not as good as it should be. So, I thought to myself, I have to devise
something to make the restoration easier. That is when I thought of a
spit/rotisserie.

Has anyone on the list ever devised a roll over spit/rotisserie that can
swing a stripped out TR through 360 degrees?

If they have, do they have assembly plans to share? Even a pencil sketch and
approx sizes would do.

On the Internet I can find ready made ones for sale for other British cars.
Honestly they look very flimsy and are only for mono body shells without a
separate chassis. I am sure the centre of gravity would be entirely
different and the TR much heavier. However, buying one ready made would take
out the fun and lighten my pocket somewhat, which is even less fun. I am
fully committed to designing and making one from scratch. As it will be used
only once it must be as cost effective as possible by using recycled steel
box section and round tube.

Even if no one on the list has actually constructed one I would like to hear
any views and opinions on the idea and any suggestions as to what features
should be included.

Adrian
1966 TR4A CT64306 O
Wales UK

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From bill_beecher at flash.net  Thu Mar 21 20:01:27 2013
From: bill_beecher at flash.net (bill_beecher at flash.net)
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2013 21:01:27 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 water Pump
Message-ID: <71A9A5DA8EAD499599B35394CB323A2D@bboffice>

Does anyone sell a re-build kit for the original TR3 water pumps?  Bearings,
shaft & vanes are all excellent, i just need the rubber bits.
 
I see Moss & TRF have the pump for about $80,  TRF lists a kit but no cost
given.  
 
Thanks,
Bill
 
Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
 <http://www.triumphowners.com/1566> www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Even if you are on the right track, you'll get run over if you just sit
there"  Will Rodgers

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Thu Mar 21 20:18:29 2013
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2013 22:18:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] Roll over Spit/Rotisserie for a TR4A
In-Reply-To: <E8B1AC65277A448C829855FC498840C1@AdrianPC>
References: <E8B1AC65277A448C829855FC498840C1@AdrianPC>
Message-ID: <006501ce26a3$8eefd490$accf7db0$@uprichard.net>

Last year I bought some panels from Joe Richards in Ohio.  He had a
rotisserie he had used on TS1 and was looking to sell it.  Don't know if it
would work for a TR4 or if it even still available, but you may want to ask
him.

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dixie4
Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2013 8:53 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Roll over Spit/Rotisserie for a TR4A

A good few years ago I stripped my TR4A solid axle type car down to a
rolling shell and started a bare metal restoration. As many must know,
business and other outside factors get in the way of a restoration so work
ground to a halt back in 2003.
Now ten years have passed and with my business sold I have to start up the
restoration once again.
Of course I am now ten years older and a sufferer of myeloma. My mobility is
not as good as it should be. So, I thought to myself, I have to devise
something to make the restoration easier. That is when I thought of a
spit/rotisserie.

Has anyone on the list ever devised a roll over spit/rotisserie that can
swing a stripped out TR through 360 degrees?

If they have, do they have assembly plans to share? Even a pencil sketch and
approx sizes would do.

On the Internet I can find ready made ones for sale for other British cars.
Honestly they look very flimsy and are only for mono body shells without a
separate chassis. I am sure the centre of gravity would be entirely
different and the TR much heavier. However, buying one ready made would take
out the fun and lighten my pocket somewhat, which is even less fun. I am
fully committed to designing and making one from scratch. As it will be used
only once it must be as cost effective as possible by using recycled steel
box section and round tube.

Even if no one on the list has actually constructed one I would like to hear
any views and opinions on the idea and any suggestions as to what features
should be included.

Adrian
1966 TR4A CT64306 O
Wales UK

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Mar 22 01:37:51 2013
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2013 00:37:51 -0700
Subject: [TR] completely off topic
In-Reply-To: <4C2B371263974A96A7B21321A3E93652@AdrianPC>
Message-ID: <BB.85.06772.74A0C415@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> The 
> grit size used was more of granulated sugar size sort of 
> 40/60 grit size at a guess.

Does seem to be a lot of variation in recommended grit.  Most of the sites I
found selling "spark plug" media don't specify the grit, but the few I found
ranged from 80 grit
http://goo.gl/hp0K3
All the way to 600
http://goo.gl/Dtd2N

Obviously doesn't prove anything, but 100 grit clearly falls in the range.
Randall

From dixie4.wales at virgin.net  Fri Mar 22 02:49:58 2013
From: dixie4.wales at virgin.net (Dixie4)
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2013 08:49:58 -0000
Subject: [TR] Roll over Spit/Rotisserie for a TR4A
In-Reply-To: <006501ce26a3$8eefd490$accf7db0$@uprichard.net>
References: <E8B1AC65277A448C829855FC498840C1@AdrianPC>
	<006501ce26a3$8eefd490$accf7db0$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <601E570FCEFC40C0AD1D1CFA4D8C8176@AdrianPC>

Andrew many thanks for your reply. A great suggestion and if I was Stateside 
it would certainly be worth following up. Being in UK though is a little too 
far from Ohio.
Thanks again for taking the trouble to reply.

Adrian
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard at uprichard.net>
To: "'Dixie4'" <dixie4.wales at virgin.net>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, March 22, 2013 2:18 AM
Subject: RE: [TR] Roll over Spit/Rotisserie for a TR4A


> Last year I bought some panels from Joe Richards in Ohio.  He had a
> rotisserie he had used on TS1 and was looking to sell it.  Don't know if 
> it
> would work for a TR4 or if it even still available, but you may want to 
> ask
> him.
>
> Andrew Uprichard
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dixie4
> Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2013 8:53 PM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] Roll over Spit/Rotisserie for a TR4A
>
> A good few years ago I stripped my TR4A solid axle type car down to a
> rolling shell and started a bare metal restoration. As many must know,
> business and other outside factors get in the way of a restoration so work
> ground to a halt back in 2003.
> Now ten years have passed and with my business sold I have to start up the
> restoration once again.
> Of course I am now ten years older and a sufferer of myeloma. My mobility 
> is
> not as good as it should be. So, I thought to myself, I have to devise
> something to make the restoration easier. That is when I thought of a
> spit/rotisserie.
>
> Has anyone on the list ever devised a roll over spit/rotisserie that can
> swing a stripped out TR through 360 degrees?
>
> If they have, do they have assembly plans to share? Even a pencil sketch 
> and
> approx sizes would do.
>
> On the Internet I can find ready made ones for sale for other British 
> cars.
> Honestly they look very flimsy and are only for mono body shells without a
> separate chassis. I am sure the centre of gravity would be entirely
> different and the TR much heavier. However, buying one ready made would 
> take
> out the fun and lighten my pocket somewhat, which is even less fun. I am
> fully committed to designing and making one from scratch. As it will be 
> used
> only once it must be as cost effective as possible by using recycled steel
> box section and round tube.
>
> Even if no one on the list has actually constructed one I would like to 
> hear
> any views and opinions on the idea and any suggestions as to what features
> should be included.
>
> Adrian
> 1966 TR4A CT64306 O
> Wales UK
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net
>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 2641/6180 - Release Date: 03/15/13

From gpr at key-men.com  Fri Mar 22 03:16:42 2013
From: gpr at key-men.com (George Richardson)
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2013 05:16:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] Justin Wagner
Message-ID: <514C217A.2020101@key-men.com>

Anyone know what up with Justin Wagner?

Last summer I tried emailing him about a gasket for my TR3 and got no 
response.

Now I see that his web site is down.

I'd still like to get a gasket for the TR3 and one for the TR6.

-- 
George Richardson
Key Men - Keys for Classics
www.key-men.com

From gpr at key-men.com  Fri Mar 22 03:19:31 2013
From: gpr at key-men.com (George Richardson)
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2013 05:19:31 -0400
Subject: [TR] Lift-a-dot studs
In-Reply-To: <20130321223149.G7AUE.103550.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>
References: <20130321223149.G7AUE.103550.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>
Message-ID: <514C2223.3090502@key-men.com>

I've replated them with nickle and it merges with the original plating, 
so I'm guessing nickle is correct.

George Richardson
Key Men - Keys for Classics
www.key-men.com

On 3/21/2013 6:31 PM, Randall wrote:
> ---- Andrew Uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net> wrote:
>
>> My questions are:  do they make a stud with a longer thread and does anyone
>> have two they would sell me?
> Yes, TRF sells them under part number 552670.  On sale at the moment, so I'm reasonably confident they have them in stock (or will soon).
>
> On a side note, many of the old studs I have seem to have a darker, yellower finish than chrome; more like nickel or maybe German silver.  Anyone know what the originals were plated with?
>
> Randall
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/gpr at key-men.com

From dixie4.wales at virgin.net  Fri Mar 22 04:34:24 2013
From: dixie4.wales at virgin.net (Dixie4)
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2013 10:34:24 -0000
Subject: [TR] Roll over spit /rotissorie for TR4A
Message-ID: <C92259222C224D60AE018C7FD86B8FDC@AdrianPC>

Well guys The List to the rescue yet again. It still amazes me the wealth of
knowledge on The List and of course the old saying many heads are better than
one when trawling the internet.

I have been working on this idea  of a spit for a couple of weeks and had not
really got anywhere into seeing how others tackled the construction and
design.
Now in one email I have numerous options, plans and even cutting lists! WOW!!!
Thanks, thanks, and even more thanks to all who responded.
Bill Beech has posted a couple of links which are invaluable and both could
outline a basis for my own version. The first I find over engineered but
superb if it was for multiple use in a business environment. The second seems
more to the idea I was formulating and with a few personal tweaks could be a
winner.
Dave H has proposed the idea of two engine stands. It is so simple and
brilliant, if I was Stateside. In the US you have/had those huge cast iron V8
engines and that is the kind of loading they are designed for. The equivalent
stands available here in UK are positively flimsy and would not take anywhere
near the weight. But I am looking to see if someone markets one in UK for
heavier engines such as in the Jaguar V12 for instance or even small truck
engines. With this kind of set up using two engine stands most of the
construction would be already done by a a worker in China who works for a
handful of rice a day. Meaning it would probably be more cost effective than
making a couple of the basic stands myself, not a sleight against the
Chinese.

Once I have figured the basic construction of the main units, mounting to the
chassis is the next issue. The front is simple with beefed up replicas of the
standard chassis to front panel brackets. Then bolted to a cross beam taking
into account the curve of the front panel. So far so good pretty straight
forward I am thinking. The mounting at the rear of the car has got me stumped
at the moment. As I said before I have no intention of separating the body and
chassis and I have only the original holes and mountings to work with and it
surprises me to realize how little holds the back bumper on the car. Maybe I
should think out of the box and consider picking up on the spring mounts (car
is live axle not IRS)

Any ideas Guys?

Adrian 1966 TR4A CT64306 O
Wales UK.

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Fri Mar 22 05:27:05 2013
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2013 07:27:05 -0400
Subject: [TR] Justin Wagner
In-Reply-To: <514C217A.2020101@key-men.com>
References: <514C217A.2020101@key-men.com>
Message-ID: <514C4009.4030903@adelphia.net>

George,

I saw a post on the 6 pack forum a few months ago from Justin and he 
says he is currently not in the gasket business due to day job 
requirements. He is not sure when or if his gasket business will resume.

I guess I am lucky, I have his gaskets on all my 3 Triumphs.

Bob

On 03/22/2013 05:16 AM, George Richardson wrote:
> Anyone know what up with Justin Wagner?
>
> Last summer I tried emailing him about a gasket for my TR3 and got no 
> response.
>
> Now I see that his web site is down.
>
> I'd still like to get a gasket for the TR3 and one for the TR6.

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Mar 22 06:08:17 2013
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2013 08:08:17 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] completely off topic
Message-ID: <2331f.6d9a062c.3e7da3b0@cs.com>

Cool.  I guess I need to be more specific with the search terms.

Dave

In a message dated 3/21/2013 5:23:27 PM Central Daylight Time, 
tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: 
> I must have Google really well trained or something.  The second match I 
> got pointed to a brochure for the stuff:
> http://goo.gl/EibKL
> "For abrasive blasting, wet or dry, of Metal, Glass, Ceramics, Wood, 
> Rubber, Plastic, Stone and other materials"

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Mar 22 06:33:00 2013
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2013 08:33:00 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Roll over spit /rotissorie for TR4A
Message-ID: <23a2c.3eab4dc9.3e7da97c@cs.com>

Adrian, I would take a close look at the rear bumper mounts.  I'm thinking 
a 2x3 box beam with a couple short pieces to space the beam out from the 
rear metalwork and a handful of long bolts.

That's how it would work on a TR6, anyway.  Your TR4 may be different, 
however, but the bumper mounts would be plenty robust for this task.

Dave

In a message dated 3/22/2013 5:32:54 AM Central Daylight Time, 
dixie4.wales at virgin.net writes: 
> Once I have figured the basic construction of the main units, mounting to 
> the
> chassis is the next issue. The front is simple with beefed up replicas of 
> the
> standard chassis to front panel brackets. Then bolted to a cross beam 
> taking
> into account the curve of the front panel. So far so good pretty straight
> forward I am thinking. The mounting at the rear of the car has got me 
> stumped
> at the moment. As I said before I have no intention of separating the body 
> and
> chassis and I have only the original holes and mountings to work with and 
> it
> surprises me to realize how little holds the back bumper on the car. Maybe 
> I
> should think out of the box and consider picking up on the spring mounts 
> (car
> is live axle not IRS)

From tr3a58 at verizon.net  Fri Mar 22 07:06:50 2013
From: tr3a58 at verizon.net (Dean Tetterton)
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2013 09:06:50 -0400
Subject: [TR] Transmission Woes
In-Reply-To: <CD4109C2-A15B-4D47-9789-015C852BC6F4@gmail.com>
References: <8f6b.65590361.3e7b306e@aol.com>
	<CD4109C2-A15B-4D47-9789-015C852BC6F4@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DF374291-AA2E-466E-9DDF-DD980F801AB9@verizon.net>

I found a nice article on the VTR web site that puts a good light on
the TR Synchro problems. Written by Bill Kelly.
http://www.vtr.org/maintain/synchromesh.shtml

Pay close attention to paragraph 3. The tension of the spring loaded
balls determines how much pressure is applied to the brass rings and
then to the gear. Weak springs and not enough pressure to match the
speed of the gears. The higher the RPM when shifting and the more
work they need to do. The springs are cheap and easy to replace while
doing the tranny.

Dean Tetterton

On Mar 20, 2013, at 1:17 PM, Jim Henningsen wrote:

> List:
> I have a jtype od transmission that was rebuilt about 8 years ago.  Started
> having third gear grinding issues on hard acceleration and deceleration
(auto
> cross and spirited driving) so had new German made brass synchros installed
> about 2 years ago. Got rid of Taiwanese synchros installed during original
> rebuild as we thought that was the issue. The new German synchros didn't
solve
> the problem.  The tranny shifts fine at lower rpms, but when I goose it and
> want powershifts it grinds slightly going into third (from second and
fourth)
> and a little on the hard down shifts in second.  Hard shifts are revving up
to
> 5500 rpms.  The clutch was rebuilt about 10 years ago with a Borg and beck,
> and guest throw out bearing.  Clutch looked fine when we inspected on
latest
> synchro change.
>
> Any ideas what this could be?
>
> Thanks,
> Jim Henningsen
> Ocala, FL
> 75 TR6
> 62 TR4
>
> Sent from my iPad

From trguy75 at gmail.com  Fri Mar 22 07:30:55 2013
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen)
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2013 09:30:55 -0400
Subject: [TR] Transmission Woes
In-Reply-To: <DF374291-AA2E-466E-9DDF-DD980F801AB9@verizon.net>
References: <8f6b.65590361.3e7b306e@aol.com>
	<CD4109C2-A15B-4D47-9789-015C852BC6F4@gmail.com>
	<DF374291-AA2E-466E-9DDF-DD980F801AB9@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <3A064367-D177-43D7-BD8B-726833D2D35E@gmail.com>

Dean and all,
Thanks for the replies on my tranny woes. Looks like another pull the box out
and have it checked.  Think I will wait until the summer Florida heat.  Too
much good driving weather right now.
All the best,
Jim Henningsen
Ocala, FL

Sent from my iPad

On Mar 22, 2013, at 9:06 AM, Dean Tetterton <tr3a58 at verizon.net> wrote:

> I found a nice article on the VTR web site that puts a good light on
> the TR Synchro problems. Written by Bill Kelly.
> http://www.vtr.org/maintain/synchromesh.shtml
>
> Pay close attention to paragraph 3. The tension of the spring loaded
> balls determines how much pressure is applied to the brass rings and
> then to the gear. Weak springs and not enough pressure to match the
> speed of the gears. The higher the RPM when shifting and the more
> work they need to do. The springs are cheap and easy to replace while
> doing the tranny.
>
> Dean Tetterton
>
> On Mar 20, 2013, at 1:17 PM, Jim Henningsen wrote:
>
>> List:
>> I have a jtype od transmission that was rebuilt about 8 years ago.
Started
>> having third gear grinding issues on hard acceleration and deceleration
(auto
>> cross and spirited driving) so had new German made brass synchros
installed
>> about 2 years ago. Got rid of Taiwanese synchros installed during original
>> rebuild as we thought that was the issue. The new German synchros didn't
solve
>> the problem.  The tranny shifts fine at lower rpms, but when I goose it
and
>> want powershifts it grinds slightly going into third (from second and
fourth)
>> and a little on the hard down shifts in second.  Hard shifts are revving up
to
>> 5500 rpms.  The clutch was rebuilt about 10 years ago with a Borg and
beck,
>> and guest throw out bearing.  Clutch looked fine when we inspected on
latest
>> synchro change.
>>
>> Any ideas what this could be?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Jim Henningsen
>> Ocala, FL
>> 75 TR6
>> 62 TR4
>>
>> Sent from my iPad

From arakelianp at mossmotors.com  Fri Mar 22 08:28:36 2013
From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Pete Arakelian)
Date: Fri, 22 Mar 2013 07:28:36 -0700
Subject: [TR] Morning commute
Message-ID: <4D4FABA15328FC42B1AA0DEE4673548C0188B8E968FB@DR-EX-04.datacenter.dataresolution.net>

Southbound 101, Gaviota coast, dawn, strong offshore wind...
Yeah, I LOVE having an open sports car!
Peter Arakelian, 1971 TR6

From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Sun Mar 24 17:58:46 2013
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2013 19:58:46 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A Torque values needed
Message-ID: <532A490D1E3E4989A15293EA1F463E6B@UserTHINK>

I cannot find any information in my TR4A manuals for the bolt torque values
for 2 locations. Probably the same as for a TR6 but I donbt have that
manual.

1. The lower A Arm to A Arm Brackets that attach to the frame.

2. The A-Arm through bolt to trunnion location. Or does this get assembled
like the older TR 3 and 4 system by tightening to 5 ft. pounds and then
backing off a few flats and inserting the cotter pin?

Thanks,

JVV

From darrellw360 at mac.com  Sun Mar 24 20:36:15 2013
From: darrellw360 at mac.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Sun, 24 Mar 2013 19:36:15 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4A Torque values needed
In-Reply-To: <532A490D1E3E4989A15293EA1F463E6B@UserTHINK>
References: <532A490D1E3E4989A15293EA1F463E6B@UserTHINK>
Message-ID: <E7255DF1-98E0-4DA0-811D-61DF2C3C86BB@mac.com>

Hi Jerry,

I dug this out of my archives:

> Thanks to Rich Rock for sending:
>
>>
>> Torque specs from the Bentley TR250 and TR6 manual:
>>
>> Lower wishbone mounting bracket to frame   20-25 lb/ft
>> Lower wishbone to mounting bracket............38-46 lb/ft
>> Lower wishbone to vertical link.....................50-65 lb/ft
>>
>
> Which brings up another question.  I assume "Lower wishbone to vertical
> link" means the bolt through the trunnion.  I've always used the TR4
> instructions (5 lbs then back off a flat), since the Bently/Factory manual
> is pretty much mute on the whole 4A front suspension.  50-65 is a big
> difference, might explain why I wear trunnions out.  Can anyone with a
250/6
> manual tell me if this area should be lubricated at all during assembly?
Or
> is anyone willing to scan and post (or send me, and I can put it up) the
> relevant sections of the 250/6 manual for the front suspension?
>
> Thanks,
> Darrell


--
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Wed Mar 27 15:03:26 2013
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2013 17:03:26 -0400
Subject: [TR] Wheel bearing grease packer
Message-ID: <00a101ce2b2e$879b1260$96d13720$@uprichard.net>

Does anyone out there have experience of, or recommendations for, a wheel
bearing grease packer?  Or do you all do it by hand?

 

No rude answers, please !

Andrew Uprichard

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Wed Mar 27 15:10:48 2013
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2013 14:10:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Wheel bearing grease packer
In-Reply-To: <00a101ce2b2e$879b1260$96d13720$@uprichard.net>
References: <00a101ce2b2e$879b1260$96d13720$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <1364418648.96670.YahooMailNeo@web120001.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

only ever done it by hand. 
surgical gloves a must
 
Frank

From: Andrew
Uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent:
Wednesday, March 27, 2013 2:03 PM
Subject: [TR] Wheel bearing grease packer
Does anyone out there have experience of, or recommendations for, a wheel
bearing grease packer?  Or do you all do it by hand?



No rude answers,
please !

Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From dixie4.wales at virgin.net  Wed Mar 27 15:12:36 2013
From: dixie4.wales at virgin.net (ADRIAN DIX-DYER)
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2013 21:12:36 +0000
Subject: [TR] Wheel bearing grease packer
In-Reply-To: <00a101ce2b2e$879b1260$96d13720$@uprichard.net>
References: <00a101ce2b2e$879b1260$96d13720$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <CAJbHsd-ugjTT0XfsJvCRZRGVPC_KL6ftMq+keJMU4tKP1bmnxg@mail.gmail.com>

All done by hand or fingers really. Don't over fill the grease as you will
be dirtying those nice wheels. Ask me how I know!!!
Adrian
1966 TR4A CT64306 O
Wales UK

A

On 27 March 2013 21:03, Andrew Uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net> wrote:

> Does anyone out there have experience of, or recommendations for, a wheel
> bearing grease packer?  Or do you all do it by hand?
>
>
>
> No rude answers, please !
>
> Andrew Uprichard
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dixie4.wales at virgin.net

From mark at bradakis.com  Wed Mar 27 15:17:21 2013
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2013 15:17:21 -0600
Subject: [TR] Wheel bearing grease packer
In-Reply-To: <00a101ce2b2e$879b1260$96d13720$@uprichard.net>
References: <00a101ce2b2e$879b1260$96d13720$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <515361E1.5080707@bradakis.com>

I put grease and bearing into a plastic bag and massage away.

mjb.

From wbeech at flash.net  Wed Mar 27 15:17:49 2013
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2013 16:17:49 -0500
Subject: [TR] Wheel bearing grease packer
In-Reply-To: <00a101ce2b2e$879b1260$96d13720$@uprichard.net>
References: <00a101ce2b2e$879b1260$96d13720$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <CC6B10D8A81A4720A1F0E48163BEBFA9@bboffice>

Always by hand.

If you have wires, spread some clear silicone over the spoke ends to keep
excess bearing grease from seeping out onto your spokes.

Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Even if you are on the right track, you'll get run over if you just sit
there"  Will Rodgers



 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard
Sent: Wednesday, March 27, 2013 4:03 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Wheel bearing grease packer

Does anyone out there have experience of, or recommendations for, a wheel
bearing grease packer?  Or do you all do it by hand?

 

No rude answers, please !

Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Wed Mar 27 15:19:51 2013
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2013 14:19:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Wheel bearing grease packer
In-Reply-To: <515361E1.5080707@bradakis.com>
References: <00a101ce2b2e$879b1260$96d13720$@uprichard.net>
	<515361E1.5080707@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <1364419191.8048.YahooMailNeo@web120001.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

and massage away........OH Mark, maybe i should have you come by my house!!!

From: Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Wednesday, March 27, 2013 2:17 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Wheel bearing grease packer

I put grease and bearing into a plastic bag and massage away.

mjb.

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From aljlthomson at charter.net  Wed Mar 27 16:27:46 2013
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex&Janet Thomson)
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2013 18:27:46 -0400
Subject: [TR] Wheel bearing grease packer
In-Reply-To: <00a101ce2b2e$879b1260$96d13720$@uprichard.net>
References: <00a101ce2b2e$879b1260$96d13720$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <000c01ce2b3a$4ed284c0$ec778e40$@charter.net>

I do have a bearing packer - it looks like two flying saucers, one bigger
than the other. It also has been in the cabinet, unused for 5 years, even
though we re-did all of the wheel bearings on at least 4 hay wagons last
year. Of course, I was also trying to teach a new student employee how to
pack bearings by hand. One of the biggest challenges in a multi-use shop is
to keep lubrication tools clean and free of any contaminants. I sometimes
worry that a bearing packer can get contaminated by a blast of gritty wind.
Another issue is that unless you can buy the same type of grease from year
to year, you may end up mixing different types of greases in the packer
unless it is fully cleaned each time it is used. With the availability of
inexpensive latex shop gloves, I find that packing bearings by hand is
really not an issue as far as contact with grease goes. That's something you
think about as time advances. It would be interesting to see what factories
use for bearing packing.

Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard
Sent: Wednesday, March 27, 2013 5:03 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Wheel bearing grease packer

Does anyone out there have experience of, or recommendations for, a wheel
bearing grease packer?  Or do you all do it by hand?

 

No rude answers, please !

Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Wed Mar 27 17:11:19 2013
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2013 16:11:19 -0700
Subject: [TR] Wheel bearing grease packer
In-Reply-To: <000c01ce2b3a$4ed284c0$ec778e40$@charter.net>
References: <00a101ce2b2e$879b1260$96d13720$@uprichard.net>
	<000c01ce2b3a$4ed284c0$ec778e40$@charter.net>
Message-ID: <51537C97.2010800@gmail.com>

On 3/27/13 3:27 PM, Alex&Janet Thomson wrote:
> I do have a bearing packer - it looks like two flying saucers, one bigger
> than the other.
I have one like that too
>   It also has been in the cabinet, unused for 5 years,
I think mine is closer to 10+ years.

Every time I went to use it I had to clean grunge off of it from the 
film left behind last time I used it.  And when I finished using the 
tool I seemed to get just as greasy using it as I did packing the 
bearings by hand and it takes about 3 times longer with the cleaning and 
setting it up & tare down of the assembly.

Ummm Ignore that.  It is a really fine precision tool that no one should 
be without.  I have one slightly used and a slightly pre greased that I 
would reluctantly let go for say $25 plus shipping.

TeriAnn

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Mar 27 18:04:50 2013
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2013 0:04:50 +0000
Subject: [TR] Wheel bearing grease packer
In-Reply-To: <00a101ce2b2e$879b1260$96d13720$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <20130328000450.10V7A.130596.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>

---- Andrew Uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net> wrote: 
> Does anyone out there have experience of, or recommendations for, a wheel
> bearing grease packer?  Or do you all do it by hand?
> 
> No rude answers, please !

So ... you didn't want to know what I thought of it?
<g>

FWIW, I am becoming increasingly fond of wearing nitrile gloves from HF.  They're only a couple of cents apiece, and now come in several different thicknesses.  For packing bearings, I just don a pair of the thinnest (and cheapest) ones, then pack the bearing the old fashioned way by smearing grease across my left palm and scraping it off with the edge of the roller cage.  When you're all done, and the bearing is in place, just peel off the gloves and drop them in the car.

I still don't wear them for everything, but they work great for packing bearings.

Randall

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed Mar 27 18:17:47 2013
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob)
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2013 20:17:47 -0400
Subject: [TR] Wheel bearing grease packer
In-Reply-To: <00a101ce2b2e$879b1260$96d13720$@uprichard.net>
References: <00a101ce2b2e$879b1260$96d13720$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <121C5CA7AABC45B8B121065D139603FA@BobDell>

Last year I went searching for a good video on packing wheel bearings...... 
and I found this one. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PQYiA53vcxA 
........... great for both the humor factor and the technique....... though 
I do recommend real clean hands or latex/nitrile gloves........ pay 
attention to the "banter" with the camera lady.


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/

1975 TR6 modified with:
-Throttle Body Injection
-Toyota 5 Speed
-Nissan Differential
-AAW Wire Harness
-CVJs... and more

-----Original Message----- 
From: Andrew Uprichard
Sent: Wednesday, March 27, 2013 5:03 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Wheel bearing grease packer

Does anyone out there have experience of, or recommendations for, a wheel
bearing grease packer?  Or do you all do it by hand?



No rude answers, please !

Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From fishplate at charter.net  Wed Mar 27 19:35:03 2013
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff)
Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2013 21:35:03 -0400
Subject: [TR] Wheel bearing grease packer
In-Reply-To: <20130328000450.10V7A.130596.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>
References: <20130328000450.10V7A.130596.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>
Message-ID: <51539E47.7090802@charter.net>

On 3/27/2013 8:04 PM, Randall wrote:
> I just don a pair of the thinnest (and cheapest) ones, then pack the bearing the old fashioned way by smearing grease across my left palm and scraping it off with the edge of the roller cage.  When you're all done, and the bearing is in place, just peel off the gloves and drop them in the car.


That doesn't sound too good for the upholstery...

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Mar 27 20:03:51 2013
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2013 2:03:51 +0000
Subject: [TR] Wheel bearing grease packer
In-Reply-To: <51539E47.7090802@charter.net>
Message-ID: <20130328020351.2MMLH.131145.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>

---- Jeff <fishplate at charter.net> wrote: 
> 
> That doesn't sound too good for the upholstery...

Yup, meant to type can, not car.

Wonder if that's why my computer crashed just then?  I wasn't even sure the email had gotten out first.

Randall

From dconnitt at fuse.net  Fri Mar 29 07:04:54 2013
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2013 09:04:54 -0400
Subject: [TR] Installing a electric radiator fan in a TR4A
Message-ID: <98F809446BA646558936EC3EF96A5E38@DaveLaptop>

Happy Easter everyone,
I woke up at 5:00 AM this morning like it was a work day.. Been up to no good
since then looking at what I still need for my TR4A. According to my list, I
need a electric fan for the radiator and have settled on a Hayden 12 inch
unit. Turns out I can get one at my local Reily Autoparts with the controller.
I am going to pick that up today so I have it for when I start installing my
wire harness (supposed to ship the end of next week from Advanced Auto-Wire).
I was just wondering if there is a preference as to mounting the fan as a
pusher or puller?
Thanks,
Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A IRS
http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Fri Mar 29 07:20:30 2013
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob)
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2013 09:20:30 -0400
Subject: [TR] Installing a electric radiator fan in a TR4A
In-Reply-To: <98F809446BA646558936EC3EF96A5E38@DaveLaptop>
References: <98F809446BA646558936EC3EF96A5E38@DaveLaptop>
Message-ID: <806C4FA68FB54E7996898F4F2A1B6018@BobDell>

The TR6 guys install Patton's Fan Eliminator Kit 
(http://pattonmachine.com/Fan-Eliminator-Kit.htm) and then install the 
electric fan as a puller. Does the TR4 have the same clearance issue as the 
TR6 with the brace that crosses between the radiator and the engine front? 
We're limited to the 16 inch "slim line" fans because of it.

Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/

1975 TR6 modified with:
-Throttle Body Injection
-Toyota 5 Speed
-Nissan Differential
-AAW Wire Harness
-CVJs... and more

-----Original Message----- 
From: Dave Connitt
Sent: Friday, March 29, 2013 9:04 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Installing a electric radiator fan in a TR4A

Happy Easter everyone,
I woke up at 5:00 AM this morning like it was a work day.. Been up to no 
good
since then looking at what I still need for my TR4A. According to my list, I
need a electric fan for the radiator and have settled on a Hayden 12 inch
unit. Turns out I can get one at my local Reily Autoparts with the 
controller.
I am going to pick that up today so I have it for when I start installing my
wire harness (supposed to ship the end of next week from Advanced 
Auto-Wire).
I was just wondering if there is a preference as to mounting the fan as a
pusher or puller?
Thanks,
Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A IRS
http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Mar 29 09:35:32 2013
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2013 08:35:32 -0700
Subject: [TR] Installing a electric radiator fan in a TR4A
In-Reply-To: <98F809446BA646558936EC3EF96A5E38@DaveLaptop>
Message-ID: <2C.F6.04559.DB4B5515@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> I was just wondering if there is a preference as to mounting 
> the fan as a pusher or puller?

My preference is as a puller.  The fan really only covers the cooling
requirements near idle, it doesn't move nearly enough air to cool the engine
at higher power.  Having the fan in front of the radiator seems to interfere
to some extent with natural air flow at higher speeds.  For example, when
the original fan on my Stag failed, I tried a temporary electric as a
pusher, which made the engine more prone to overheat at freeway speeds (with
or without the fan running).

I run a 12" Hayden as a puller on my TR3 and it works very well.  I made my
own fan eliminator from a cast iron pipe cap, but several vendors sell them
ready made.

Randall

From pethier at comcast.net  Fri Mar 29 11:07:56 2013
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2013 17:07:56 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Installing a electric radiator fan in a TR4A
In-Reply-To: <2C.F6.04559.DB4B5515@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <957468791.60236.1364576876673.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Absolutely NOT my experience with the TR4 and the Stag.  Each worked just fine with an electric pusher and the stock mechanical fan.

The Stag has a thermostatic pusher. Seamless operation.

The TR4 had a pusher with a 30-amp switch under the dash.  I only needed it when the car was stuck in traffic or "cruising" with the street-rod crowd.  In those situations, it quickly brought the temp down.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier at comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

----- Original Message -----
> From: "Randall" <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Friday, March 29, 2013 10:35:32 AM
> Subject: Re: [TR] Installing a electric radiator fan in a TR4A
> > I was just wondering if there is a preference as to mounting
> > the fan as a pusher or puller?
> 
> My preference is as a puller. The fan really only covers the cooling
> requirements near idle, it doesn't move nearly enough air to cool the
> engine
> at higher power. Having the fan in front of the radiator seems to
> interfere
> to some extent with natural air flow at higher speeds. For example,
> when
> the original fan on my Stag failed, I tried a temporary electric as a
> pusher, which made the engine more prone to overheat at freeway speeds
> (with
> or without the fan running).
> 
> I run a 12" Hayden as a puller on my TR3 and it works very well. I
> made my
> own fan eliminator from a cast iron pipe cap, but several vendors sell
> them
> ready made.
> 
> Randall
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Mar 29 11:44:08 2013
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2013 10:44:08 -0700
Subject: [TR] Installing a electric radiator fan in a TR4A
In-Reply-To: <957468791.60236.1364576876673.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <93.AB.04559.1E2D5515@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> Absolutely NOT my experience with the TR4 and the Stag.  Each 
> worked just fine with an electric pusher and the stock mechanical fan.

Practically anything will work, with enough overkill.  I was talking about
_without_ the stock mechanical fan, and a Hayden 12" that only draws 8 amps,
not 30.

On the Stag, as soon as I could replace the mechanical fan (early Stag fans
& fan drives are NLA), I removed the electric one.  The TR3 works great with
just the electric, so I'm keeping it that way for now.

My point was not that mounting in front could not work; only that I feel the
puller configuration is more efficient.  The difference is not huge, maybe
only 15-20% but it is real.

-- Randall 

From pethier at comcast.net  Fri Mar 29 12:34:30 2013
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2013 18:34:30 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Installing a electric radiator fan in a TR4A
In-Reply-To: <93.AB.04559.1E2D5515@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <597083107.61823.1364582070490.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

> I was talking
> about
> _without_ the stock mechanical fan, and a Hayden 12" that only draws 8
> amps,
> not 30.

I never said the fan drew 30 amps.  30-amp switches are not expensive, and overkill in a switch ain't bad.  I didn't use a relay, just a wire from battery through inline fuse, through switch and on to fan.
 
> My point was not that mounting in front could not work;

I think the OP is looking for something that works.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier at comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

From ghaynestr4 at aol.com  Fri Mar 29 13:04:50 2013
From: ghaynestr4 at aol.com (George Haynes)
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2013 15:04:50 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Electric Fan on TR4A
In-Reply-To: <mailman.13.1364580003.18614.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.13.1364580003.18614.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8CFFAC76BA3A23A-17F8-309F5@webmail-m213.sysops.aol.com>

Dave,


I installed a puller on my TR4A radiator when the shop balancing the
crankshaft said they would have to remove crank metal to compensate for the
fan extension and blade (even the plastic one). With the mechanical fan
removed, there was lots of room for the JCW 16" fan I bought.


I drive the car a lot.  After a few years with this configuration, using the
fan only in traffic, I became concerned about the fan failing, stranding me
with no cooling fan at all.  So I carried a spare JCW 16" fan everywhere.
When I upgraded to an aluminum radiator, I installed the spare fan as a
pusher, so there are now two fans.  I use one and have only to reconnect the
wires to the other if primary fan fails.  Takes thirty seconds.  Built-in belt
and suspenders.  On the road, neither fan is required.


I removed the TR4A dash light rheostat (tied the wires together 'cause they're
never bright enough) and installed a stock heater fan switch, complete with
little fan symbol on it.  It looks sorta correct, but no one notices.  After
some "training", I just turn on the fan reflexively when in traffic.


Good luck with it!
George Haynes

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Mar 29 13:17:15 2013
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2013 12:17:15 -0700
Subject: [TR] Installing a electric radiator fan in a TR4A
In-Reply-To: <597083107.61823.1364582070490.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <21.FE.06772.3B8E5515@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> I think the OP is looking for something that works.

Perhaps so, but he asked which was preferred.  I prefer more efficient and
not having to run two fans because neither one works very well.

Randall

From dave at ranteer.com  Fri Mar 29 13:18:51 2013
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2013 14:18:51 -0500
Subject: [TR] Electric Fan on TR4A
In-Reply-To: <8CFFAC76BA3A23A-17F8-309F5@webmail-m213.sysops.aol.com>
References: <mailman.13.1364580003.18614.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<8CFFAC76BA3A23A-17F8-309F5@webmail-m213.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <DD4FA12ECA7B43198A5DC7D838C67684@Datsun>

most people say a puller works better.    

From dconnitt at fuse.net  Fri Mar 29 17:54:59 2013
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2013 19:54:59 -0400
Subject: [TR] Electric fan for TR4A IRS
Message-ID: <E40B859649C44532AA09E58831E309F1@DaveLaptop>

List,
Many thanks to all that responded. I spent the day doing errands and just got
back in. I think I might just take the radiator with me to the local FLAPS who
happens to have a selection of different sized fans and pick the biggest one
that will fit. From what some of you have said, the 16 inch will fit. I did
measure my radiator and it is just a bit wider than 16 inches.
Again, thanks to everyone and have a great Easter weekend.
Dave Connitt

From dconnitt at fuse.net  Fri Mar 29 18:50:01 2013
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2013 20:50:01 -0400
Subject: [TR] Carelli carpet sets on Ebay and other interior pieces for
 Triumphs
Message-ID: <D2EB1574AA8645CBB8851B571948202F@DaveLaptop>

List,
One more thing..
Has anyone on the list purchased a carpet set from Cover-zone/Carelli? They
look decent and are around $165.00. But, it's just a picture. They claim to be
a UK company, not that that is anything special but just a interesting note.
Also, does anyone have any suggestions on door panels and other upholstery
items such as the wheel covers and the piece that runs around the back of the
interior? Moss sells a kit but they want $700.00, ouch..
Just wanted to see what else, if anything is out there.
Thanks again,
Dave Connitt

From alansalvy at gmail.com  Fri Mar 29 19:52:01 2013
From: alansalvy at gmail.com (alan salvatore)
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2013 21:52:01 -0400
Subject: [TR] Carelli carpet sets on Ebay and other interior pieces for
 Triumphs
In-Reply-To: <D2EB1574AA8645CBB8851B571948202F@DaveLaptop>
References: <D2EB1574AA8645CBB8851B571948202F@DaveLaptop>
Message-ID: <CAAAEehRq-0aRr2OLYzwRJUYuJ=bj=0RbQMGHxKrWNxxy0098aQ@mail.gmail.com>

Its an OK carpet for the money.

Depends on your budget.

I put one in a car.  Its a very stiff carpet because of the jute backing.
I used a rubber hammer to massage it into shape.
The emergency brake cover is flimsy.
I didn't care for the rubber mat being place on the passenger side.

TRF carpet is more but its better quality.and like the factory carpet.
TRF carpet has a rubber backing and lays over the rockers and tranny cover
for a better fit.

Al

.

On Fri, Mar 29, 2013 at 8:50 PM, Dave Connitt <dconnitt at fuse.net> wrote:

> List,
> One more thing..
> Has anyone on the list purchased a carpet set from Cover-zone/Carelli? They
> look decent and are around $165.00. But, it's just a picture. They claim
> to be
> a UK company, not that that is anything special but just a interesting
> note.
> Also, does anyone have any suggestions on door panels and other upholstery
> items such as the wheel covers and the piece that runs around the back of
> the
> interior? Moss sells a kit but they want $700.00, ouch..
> Just wanted to see what else, if anything is out there.
> Thanks again,
> Dave Connitt
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/alansalvy at gmail.com

From dconnitt at fuse.net  Fri Mar 29 20:21:15 2013
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2013 22:21:15 -0400
Subject: [TR] Carelli carpet sets on Ebay and other interior pieces for
 Triumphs
Message-ID: <F6A22B6D9E33462198C380F5339A29C9@DaveLaptop>

List,
Again, thanks for all the replies. I believe I will stick with the Moss and
TRF products. I am working on getting my TR4A as close to done this summer as
possible. OK, I really meant I am working on getting my TR4A to a running
condition. I don't think we can ever say we are "done".. Well, I might tell
Colleen that but we all know better.
Thanks again,
Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A IRS
http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a

From levilevi at comcast.net  Fri Mar 29 21:08:33 2013
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud R)
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 2013 21:08:33 -0600
Subject: [TR] Electric fan for TR4A IRS
In-Reply-To: <E40B859649C44532AA09E58831E309F1@DaveLaptop>
References: <E40B859649C44532AA09E58831E309F1@DaveLaptop>
Message-ID: <B84CBD6C-B714-4CE0-BC7C-123E9DBE93B7@comcast.net>

I use a Permacool 16 inch fan on my TR6 as a puller. The fan fits  
tight on the backside of the radiator without anything to hold it in  
place other than the side pieces of the radiator. I did put some of  
the rubber dampers between the electric fan and the radiator but  
otherwise just popped it into place (ok I did pull gently on the side  
pieces just a bit) and it's been that way for many cross country  
trips, a few autocrosses, and numerous potholes since without moving a  
bit. With the crossmember about 1/16 inch from the back of the fan it  
couldn't go anywhere if it tried. I don't carry a spare electric fan  
on long distance trips but I do sit the spare I have out where my wife  
could find it and overnight to me if needed. I have the fan set on a  
thermostat and also a manual switch that I put in the ashtray (it does  
still close). The light is there too glued to the lid and positioned  
so that the ashtray lid won't close with the manual switch on (that  
way I don't turn it on and mindlessly walk off).

Bud Rolofson

Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle
77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)









On Mar 29, 2013, at 5:54 PM, Dave Connitt wrote:

> I did
> measure my radiator and it is just a bit wider than 16 inches.

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sat Mar 30 12:23:54 2013
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob)
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2013 14:23:54 -0400
Subject: [TR] Carelli carpet sets on Ebay and other interior pieces for
 Triumphs
In-Reply-To: <D2EB1574AA8645CBB8851B571948202F@DaveLaptop>
References: <D2EB1574AA8645CBB8851B571948202F@DaveLaptop>
Message-ID: <1A4261EAC66C487188A143BE59631F2B@BobDell>

I know a guy :-) who does custom interiors for TR6....... they also happen 
to fit the TR4........ you can see his work and prices here

http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/PanelBootSales1.htm#Completed_Kits

The downside is there's very few stock colors of vinyl by the yard available 
to purchase.......... well TRF and VB do sell it at $70/yd which is 
outrageous when you consider that most vinyl falls in to the $20-$35/yd 
range.

Bob


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/

1975 TR6 modified with:
-Throttle Body Injection
-Toyota 5 Speed
-Nissan Differential
-AAW Wire Harness
-CVJs... and more



-----Original Message----- 
From: Dave Connitt
Sent: Friday, March 29, 2013 8:50 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Carelli carpet sets on Ebay and other interior pieces for 
Triumphs

List,
One more thing..
Has anyone on the list purchased a carpet set from Cover-zone/Carelli? They
look decent and are around $165.00. But, it's just a picture. They claim to 
be
a UK company, not that that is anything special but just a interesting note.
Also, does anyone have any suggestions on door panels and other upholstery
items such as the wheel covers and the piece that runs around the back of 
the
interior? Moss sells a kit but they want $700.00, ouch..
Just wanted to see what else, if anything is out there.
Thanks again,
Dave Connitt

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From tony at tonydrews.com  Sat Mar 30 15:26:07 2013
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2013 16:26:07 -0500
Subject: [TR] Carelli carpet sets on Ebay and other interior pieces for
 Triumphs
In-Reply-To: <D2EB1574AA8645CBB8851B571948202F@DaveLaptop>
References: <D2EB1574AA8645CBB8851B571948202F@DaveLaptop>
Message-ID: <mailman.11.1364678918.7389.triumphs@autox.team.net>

FYI - Moss has a carpet, upholstery and top sale going on according 
to the flyer I got in the mail today.

Tony Drews

At 07:50 PM 3/29/2013, Dave Connitt wrote:
>List,
>One more thing..
>Has anyone on the list purchased a carpet set from Cover-zone/Carelli? They
>look decent and are around $165.00. But, it's just a picture. They claim to be
>a UK company, not that that is anything special but just a interesting note.
>Also, does anyone have any suggestions on door panels and other upholstery
>items such as the wheel covers and the piece that runs around the back of the
>interior? Moss sells a kit but they want $700.00, ouch..
>Just wanted to see what else, if anything is out there.
>Thanks again,
>Dave Connitt

From dconnitt at fuse.net  Sat Mar 30 20:08:11 2013
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2013 22:08:11 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A IRS Electric Radiator Fan
Message-ID: <1C0916506C1E48509A65F7E5FFE9F13E@DaveLaptop>

List,
I ran my radiator up to a local O'Reily Auto Parts store looking match up a
cooling fan and found that the Hayden 16 inch fan fit like it was made for it.
The fan motor is about 3/4" from the front cross member so it fits in the car
pretty well. I posted a link to some pictures of it on my website in the
Progress section.. I have a idea on how to interface a thermostatic switch
between the fan and the relay. RevingtonTR sells a stainless steel down pipe
(P/N 130039SST) with a bung welded in for a screw in thermostat so it is
actually sampling the water temperature directly. They offer 3 different
temperature ranges so I need to email them about that. At least I have a fan
now.
Thanks again to all that commented on my question about the fan.
Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A IRS
http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a

From bill_beecher at flash.net  Sat Mar 30 21:09:57 2013
From: bill_beecher at flash.net (bill_beecher at flash.net)
Date: Sat, 30 Mar 2013 22:09:57 -0500
Subject: [TR] Memory Lane
Message-ID: <740AFC365F374D668AEA19A152C6D91E@bboffice>

Just unpacking some old china today.  If you have a time machine I can get
you new 1966 Spit Fire(sp) for only $2199.00 during "Triumph Value Days"! 
 
If your an old ad collector email me off-line an I will send you a scan from
the April 27, 1966 Abilene Reporter-News.
 
Have a great weekend!
 
Bill
 
Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566 <http://www.triumphowners.com/1566> 
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Even if you are on the right track, you'll get run over if you just sit
there"  Will Rodgers

From tfansher at comcast.net  Sun Mar 31 07:38:03 2013
From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2013 09:38:03 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A IRS Electric Radiator Fan
In-Reply-To: <1C0916506C1E48509A65F7E5FFE9F13E@DaveLaptop>
References: <1C0916506C1E48509A65F7E5FFE9F13E@DaveLaptop>
Message-ID: <5D166EB6E81A46D59FEF26E318BD1124@OwnerPC>

Dave, I have the thermostat switch in the pipe.  JEGS also sells the 
thermostats.  I did have to add a male electric connector to the pipe (along 
side the bung) for a ground wire.
After doing that it works great. I started out with a 185 degree thermostat 
in the bung, and the water at the gauge was too warm for my taste, so I got 
a 165 or 176 and it works much better.  Sorry I can't remember which one. 
I'll send you a picture of the set up.  It's on my TR3A with a puller fan. 
Hope this helps
Tom
60 TR3A
61 TR3A
62 TR4
73 Stag Mk II

-----Original Message----- 
From: Dave Connitt
Sent: Saturday, March 30, 2013 10:08 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR4A IRS Electric Radiator Fan

List,
I ran my radiator up to a local O'Reily Auto Parts store looking match up a
cooling fan and found that the Hayden 16 inch fan fit like it was made for 
it.
The fan motor is about 3/4" from the front cross member so it fits in the 
car
pretty well. I posted a link to some pictures of it on my website in the
Progress section.. I have a idea on how to interface a thermostatic switch
between the fan and the relay. RevingtonTR sells a stainless steel down pipe
(P/N 130039SST) with a bung welded in for a screw in thermostat so it is
actually sampling the water temperature directly. They offer 3 different
temperature ranges so I need to email them about that. At least I have a fan
now.
Thanks again to all that commented on my question about the fan.
Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A IRS
http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Sun Mar 31 13:04:16 2013
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2013 15:04:16 -0400
Subject: [TR] panel lights on TR3
Message-ID: <006701ce2e42$8aff7600$a0fe6200$@verizon.net>

I am pulling my hair.  (not out - I need all I have)

 

Installed the 6 panel lamps on the '3 yesterday.  

Two circuits -  one with 4 holders/bulbs for speedo/tach, the other with two
holders/bulbs for center panel

Bench tested all six at one time - all ok.

 

Problem - one holder/lamp in the center panel pair - when installed causes
everything to flicker.  I unplug the offending holder/lamp and no flicker.
I connect a ground and it is back.

 

Switched out for an older holder/lamp - same thing.

Switched the lamps around - same thing. Same location.

 

Not sure it matters but It is the center panel lamp below the turn signal
indicator.

 

Any ideas.

 

Carl

1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO

 <http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/> http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 

Tampa, FL

From wbeech at flash.net  Sun Mar 31 13:52:11 2013
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2013 14:52:11 -0500
Subject: [TR] panel lights on TR3
In-Reply-To: <006701ce2e42$8aff7600$a0fe6200$@verizon.net>
References: <006701ce2e42$8aff7600$a0fe6200$@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <C9F3373C0C964E70A032C42506FE5642@bboffice>

Has to be a short or weak connnection in the holder.  Have you tried one of
the new holders in that position?
Bill 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl TR
Sent: Sunday, March 31, 2013 2:04 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] panel lights on TR3

I am pulling my hair.  (not out - I need all I have)

 

Installed the 6 panel lamps on the '3 yesterday.  

Two circuits -  one with 4 holders/bulbs for speedo/tach, the other with two
holders/bulbs for center panel

Bench tested all six at one time - all ok.

 

Problem - one holder/lamp in the center panel pair - when installed causes
everything to flicker.  I unplug the offending holder/lamp and no flicker.
I connect a ground and it is back.

 

Switched out for an older holder/lamp - same thing.

Switched the lamps around - same thing. Same location.

 

Not sure it matters but It is the center panel lamp below the turn signal
indicator.

 

Any ideas.

 

Carl

1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO

 <http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/> http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 

Tampa, FL

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Sun Mar 31 14:19:51 2013
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl-TR)
Date: Sun, 31 Mar 2013 16:19:51 -0400
Subject: [TR] panel lights on TR3
In-Reply-To: <006701ce2e42$8aff7600$a0fe6200$@verizon.net>
References: <006701ce2e42$8aff7600$a0fe6200$@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPoKQPTb8BxDhdc+Y5YHXJqigQAAEAAAAJdZJHGb5V9Fs5KtvnAga0MBAAAAAA==@verizon.net>

It seems that if 5 are connected - all is ok.  Plug in the sixth -
regardless of location - they start flickering. 
Followed Michael's suggestion...  found one that had a cracked separator
between +/-.   Without that one in the mix - all is ok.  
Of course, the spare has been re-used many times and the tines on the
backside are completely useless.  I'll go digging for another but at least I
know the problem.

Thanks Michael & Bill for the quick response.

Carl


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl TR
Sent: Sunday, March 31, 2013 3:04 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] panel lights on TR3

I am pulling my hair.  (not out - I need all I have)

 

Installed the 6 panel lamps on the '3 yesterday.  

Two circuits -  one with 4 holders/bulbs for speedo/tach, the other with two
holders/bulbs for center panel

Bench tested all six at one time - all ok.

 

Problem - one holder/lamp in the center panel pair - when installed causes
everything to flicker.  I unplug the offending holder/lamp and no flicker.
I connect a ground and it is back.

 

Switched out for an older holder/lamp - same thing.

Switched the lamps around - same thing. Same location.

 

Not sure it matters but It is the center panel lamp below the turn signal
indicator.

 

Any ideas.

 

Carl

1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO

 <http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/> http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 

Tampa, FL

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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