From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Tue Jan 1 18:02:55 2013 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl-TR) Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2013 20:02:55 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Gear Shift Lever Message-ID: <000001cde884$e6ffe6f0$b4ffb4d0$@net> Having one of those - "I can't recall" moments. I am putting the gear shift lever back in the car. at the bottom end there is a small hole that appears to have something in it. I can't figure out what. I sort of recall a spring and ball but not sure. anyone been there? Any idea of a source? Thanks Carl 1961 TR3A - TS81802LO Tampa, Florida From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Tue Jan 1 18:20:40 2013 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl-TR) Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2013 20:20:40 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Gear Shift Lever In-Reply-To: <000001cde884$e6ffe6f0$b4ffb4d0$@net> References: <000001cde884$e6ffe6f0$b4ffb4d0$@net> Message-ID: <000501cde887$60f8f5d0$22eae170$@net> I went digging in my boxes. Found spring 37502 and plunger 112424. Now - all I need is to figure out how they go together. Anyone know? Thanks Carl 1961 TR3A - TS81802LO Tampa, Florida -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl-TR Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2013 8:03 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR3 Gear Shift Lever Having one of those - "I can't recall" moments. I am putting the gear shift lever back in the car. at the bottom end there is a small hole that appears to have something in it. I can't figure out what. I sort of recall a spring and ball but not sure. anyone been there? Any idea of a source? Thanks Carl 1961 TR3A - TS81802LO Tampa, Florida From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Tue Jan 1 18:42:37 2013 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2013 17:42:37 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Causes of fast idle TR3 Message-ID: <1357090957.8426.YahooMailNeo@web120005.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> happy new year to all B Since putting the TR3 back on the road I have suffered an idle speed that I canbt get below around 1300/1400 at best. Now that the season is over I decided to fix some things. When I put the car back on the road I did not rebuild some parts under the premises of bif it aint brokeb and i donbt spend cash I donbt have. B B Had my distributor rebuilt by Advanced. Fitted that today. B Decided to work the carbs myself. In the past when I sprayed a little starting fluid at the ends of the throttle shafts it would bog down the motor..Just a little. It did NOT increase engine speed. I am running the TR4 PCV valve setup. The round pancake type. All new diaphragm. While checking the disassembled carb body I found the old throttle shafts to be worn. About 0.010b undersize. But I found the existing bushings to be only 0.002 max out of round and no worse than the new bushings I had to replace them. So I did not replace the bushings. Max clearance now from new throttle shaft to old bushings are from .002 to .0035. I have access to a very big fully equipped machine shop with excellent facilities for measuring. Ibm confident in those numbers. Installed new butterfly valves with the Ground surfaces to mate against carb. B fitted the carbs today also. B Got the car together today and I have no improvement in reducing the idle speed. B If I put my foot under the gas pedal and pull it up, I can reduce idle speed by about 300. it was always like that. adding a spring strong enought to do that for me made the pedal horribly heavy. B Disengaged the PCV valve to see if there was an air leak. No. B Squirted starter fluif around the intake manifold. No change in idle speed. B I guess I did not spray the throttle shaft again! Duh! Will check that Saturday again. B Car runs, but not right just yet. I think I need to play with the timing some. No power at low revs, kicks into power at about 2000. I think that I just need to mess with ignition for now. Exhaust note has changed though. Sounds like a tractor now and I donbt have the 2500 howl. B Any thoughts on where to start looking for cause of idle speed will be appreciated and tried this coming Saturday B Thanks Frank From mark at bradakis.com Tue Jan 1 19:35:22 2013 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2013 19:35:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Gear Shift Lever In-Reply-To: <000501cde887$60f8f5d0$22eae170$@net> References: <000001cde884$e6ffe6f0$b4ffb4d0$@net> <000501cde887$60f8f5d0$22eae170$@net> Message-ID: <50E39CEA.80009@bradakis.com> As I recall the spring goes in the hole, the plunger on top, and then one fits the shift lever such that as you go to put it in position the plunger pops out and rolls under an immovable cabinet. mjb. From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Tue Jan 1 19:41:00 2013 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl-TR) Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2013 21:41:00 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Gear Shift Lever In-Reply-To: References: <000001cde884$e6ffe6f0$b4ffb4d0$@net> <000501cde887$60f8f5d0$22eae170$@net> Message-ID: <000901cde892$9a2d9440$ce88bcc0$@net> Which way does the spring/plunger face? or does it make a difference. Thanks Carl -----Original Message----- From: Foster, Stan (HP IT) [mailto:stan.foster at hp.com] Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2013 9:13 PM To: cfmtr3a at verizon.net Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 Gear Shift Lever Carl, the spring goes in the hole in the gear stick and the plunger goes in next. The idea is that the spring keeps the plunger engaged in the gate and stops the rattle. The easiest way to install this is to take a plastic wire tie and place it around the bottom of the gearstick so that it compresses the spring and holds the plunger in place in the hole. It takes a bit of finesse to get it all balanced. Then you place the gearstick into position and give it a sharp smack with your hand. The end will drop into the gate, the plunger and spring will remain where they should and you can lift away the wire tie. Stan -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl-TR Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2013 8:21 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Gear Shift Lever I went digging in my boxes. Found spring 37502 and plunger 112424. Now - all I need is to figure out how they go together. Anyone know? Thanks Carl 1961 TR3A - TS81802LO Tampa, Florida From sukatr3 at gmail.com Tue Jan 1 21:13:51 2013 From: sukatr3 at gmail.com (HANS DEFERRANTE) Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2013 20:13:51 -0800 Subject: [TR] Spit.1500 Trunk Light Switch Message-ID: <0F61DBD1-9721-4EAD-A82C-2CEF255D0BF6@gmail.com> Hi List, I am restoring a Spit 1500 and can't remember or figure out where and how the trunk light switch is located. Could someone help me out, preferably with a pic? Thanks Hans 61TR3A From stan.foster at hp.com Tue Jan 1 21:35:41 2013 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2013 04:35:41 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3 Gear Shift Lever In-Reply-To: <000901cde892$9a2d9440$ce88bcc0$@net> References: <000001cde884$e6ffe6f0$b4ffb4d0$@net> <000501cde887$60f8f5d0$22eae170$@net> <000901cde892$9a2d9440$ce88bcc0$@net> Message-ID: If you are sitting behind the gearbox facing the front of the car, the plunger/spring will be facing due left. The plastic wire tie stops the behavior that Mark is describing if you do it right. I find it easier to cinch up the wire tie first to not quite tight and then slide it over the plunger and the compressed spring. It may take a few tries but wire ties are cheap. Stan -----Original Message----- From: Carl-TR [mailto:cfmtr3a at verizon.net] Sent: Tuesday, January 1, 2013 9:41 PM To: Foster, Stan (HP IT); 'Mark J Bradakis' Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 Gear Shift Lever Which way does the spring/plunger face? or does it make a difference. Thanks Carl -----Original Message----- From: Foster, Stan (HP IT) [mailto:stan.foster at hp.com] Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2013 9:13 PM To: cfmtr3a at verizon.net Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 Gear Shift Lever Carl, the spring goes in the hole in the gear stick and the plunger goes in next. The idea is that the spring keeps the plunger engaged in the gate and stops the rattle. The easiest way to install this is to take a plastic wire tie and place it around the bottom of the gearstick so that it compresses the spring and holds the plunger in place in the hole. It takes a bit of finesse to get it all balanced. Then you place the gearstick into position and give it a sharp smack with your hand. The end will drop into the gate, the plunger and spring will remain where they should and you can lift away the wire tie. Stan -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl-TR Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2013 8:21 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Gear Shift Lever I went digging in my boxes. Found spring 37502 and plunger 112424. Now - all I need is to figure out how they go together. Anyone know? Thanks Carl 1961 TR3A - TS81802LO Tampa, Florida From wbeech at flash.net Tue Jan 1 21:50:25 2013 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2013 22:50:25 -0600 Subject: [TR] Causes of fast idle TR3 In-Reply-To: <1357090957.8426.YahooMailNeo@web120005.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1357090957.8426.YahooMailNeo@web120005.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <3B264D39B4C1444A95182CE1D91C672F@bboffice> Frank, Please post the successful result, I have the same problem. I can pull back on the accel pedal and reduce the engine speed by 500rpm. Springs are all good, tight and in the proper slots. I did notice that a friends 1962 Morgan, TR3 motor, has an additional return spring off a bracket mounted to the front exhaust mani-bolt. I can get a little bog when I spray started fluid at one of the newly re-bushed butterfly rods, but the is no play there. All the best, Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby" '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab) www.triumphowners.com/1566 '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" "If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow" M.Andretti -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Fisher Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2013 7:43 PM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] Causes of fast idle TR3 happy new year to all B Since putting the TR3 back on the road I have suffered an idle speed that I canbt get below around 1300/1400 at best. Now that the season is over I decided to fix some things. When I put the car back on the road I did not rebuild some parts under the premises of bif it aint brokeb and i donbt spend cash I donbt have. B B Had my distributor rebuilt by Advanced. Fitted that today. B Decided to work the carbs myself. In the past when I sprayed a little starting fluid at the ends of the throttle shafts it would bog down the motor..Just a little. It did NOT increase engine speed. I am running the TR4 PCV valve setup. The round pancake type. All new diaphragm. While checking the disassembled carb body I found the old throttle shafts to be worn. About 0.010b undersize. But I found the existing bushings to be only 0.002 max out of round and no worse than the new bushings I had to replace them. So I did not replace the bushings. Max clearance now from new throttle shaft to old bushings are from .002 to .0035. I have access to a very big fully equipped machine shop with excellent facilities for measuring. Ibm confident in those numbers. Installed new butterfly valves with the Ground surfaces to mate against carb. B fitted the carbs today also. B Got the car together today and I have no improvement in reducing the idle speed. B If I put my foot under the gas pedal and pull it up, I can reduce idle speed by about 300. it was always like that. adding a spring strong enought to do that for me made the pedal horribly heavy. B Disengaged the PCV valve to see if there was an air leak. No. B Squirted starter fluif around the intake manifold. No change in idle speed. B I guess I did not spray the throttle shaft again! Duh! Will check that Saturday again. B Car runs, but not right just yet. I think I need to play with the timing some. No power at low revs, kicks into power at about 2000. I think that I just need to mess with ignition for now. Exhaust note has changed though. Sounds like a tractor now and I donbt have the 2500 howl. B Any thoughts on where to start looking for cause of idle speed will be appreciated and tried this coming Saturday B Thanks Frank ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From robertrudolphi at yahoo.com Wed Jan 2 06:24:03 2013 From: robertrudolphi at yahoo.com (robert rudolphi) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2013 05:24:03 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] TR6 Differential oil fill plug In-Reply-To: <0F61DBD1-9721-4EAD-A82C-2CEF255D0BF6@gmail.com> References: <0F61DBD1-9721-4EAD-A82C-2CEF255D0BF6@gmail.com> Message-ID: <1357133043.2947.YahooMailNeo@web160403.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Hello All, I went to top off my differential (74 TR6) yesterday and noticed there is a square headed bolt that I don't seem to have a socket the right size to fit. No matter what I used it seems to begin to strip. I was wondering if anyone knew the correct size and name for the best socket to remove this bolt. Thanks in advance for any assistance. Robert Rudolphi 74 TR6 From dave1massey at cs.com Wed Jan 2 06:58:52 2013 From: dave1massey at cs.com (Dave Massey) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2013 08:58:52 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] TR6 Differential oil fill plug In-Reply-To: <1357133043.2947.YahooMailNeo@web160403.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> References: <0F61DBD1-9721-4EAD-A82C-2CEF255D0BF6@gmail.com> <1357133043.2947.YahooMailNeo@web160403.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8CFB7086E3C6746-16A8-66166@webmail-d045.sysops.aol.com> Roadster Factory (and maybe Moss, too) carry a special wrench just for that. This wrench, developed by Joe Alexander (on this list) with a square hole on one end for the square headed plugs on transmissions and differentials and a 1/4 inch square hole on the other end for brake bleeders. This should be standard equipment in any tool kit. I don't know if this is the case but if it IS a 3/8 square head you can put a 3/8 socket on backwards (you may have to file on the plug where it has been rounded off) and drive the socket with a hex key. Or you can get a coupler at the hardware store in any convenient size. Some folks routinely replace these with hex head variety or the hex socket type. Not a bad idea. I have a brass hex head plug on the TR6 transmission. Dave Massey -----Original Message----- From: robert rudolphi Hello All,I went to top off my differential (74 TR6) yesterday andnoticed there is a square headed bolt that I don't seem to have a socket theright size to fit. No matter what I used it seems to begin to strip. I waswondering if anyone knew the correct size and name for the best socket toremove this bolt.Thanks in advance for any assistance.Robert Rudolphi74TR6 From auprichard at uprichard.net Wed Jan 2 07:15:04 2013 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2013 09:15:04 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Gear Shift Lever In-Reply-To: References: <000001cde884$e6ffe6f0$b4ffb4d0$@net> <000501cde887$60f8f5d0$22eae170$@net> <000901cde892$9a2d9440$ce88bcc0$@net> Message-ID: <006801cde8f3$90c292a0$b247b7e0$@uprichard.net> Really? I just installed a shift lever 2 days ago, and there was a bolt going all the way through, so the spring and plunger had to be either facing forward or facing back. So I went to a parts car and checked there - facing back. One other interesting observation is that the plunger has a flat surface and a rounded one. Intuition would be that the rounded surface would point out from the lever, but in my 250 it wouldn't shift unless I had the flat surface facing out. In the TR3 it made no difference. Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Foster, Stan (HP IT) Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2013 11:36 PM To: cfmtr3a at verizon.net; 'Mark J Bradakis' Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Gear Shift Lever If you are sitting behind the gearbox facing the front of the car, the plunger/spring will be facing due left. The plastic wire tie stops the behavior that Mark is describing if you do it right. I find it easier to cinch up the wire tie first to not quite tight and then slide it over the plunger and the compressed spring. It may take a few tries but wire ties are cheap. Stan -----Original Message----- From: Carl-TR [mailto:cfmtr3a at verizon.net] Sent: Tuesday, January 1, 2013 9:41 PM To: Foster, Stan (HP IT); 'Mark J Bradakis' Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 Gear Shift Lever Which way does the spring/plunger face? or does it make a difference. Thanks Carl -----Original Message----- From: Foster, Stan (HP IT) [mailto:stan.foster at hp.com] Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2013 9:13 PM To: cfmtr3a at verizon.net Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 Gear Shift Lever Carl, the spring goes in the hole in the gear stick and the plunger goes in next. The idea is that the spring keeps the plunger engaged in the gate and stops the rattle. The easiest way to install this is to take a plastic wire tie and place it around the bottom of the gearstick so that it compresses the spring and holds the plunger in place in the hole. It takes a bit of finesse to get it all balanced. Then you place the gearstick into position and give it a sharp smack with your hand. The end will drop into the gate, the plunger and spring will remain where they should and you can lift away the wire tie. Stan -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl-TR Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2013 8:21 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Gear Shift Lever I went digging in my boxes. Found spring 37502 and plunger 112424. Now - all I need is to figure out how they go together. Anyone know? Thanks Carl 1961 TR3A - TS81802LO Tampa, Florida ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From stan.foster at hp.com Wed Jan 2 07:51:54 2013 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2013 14:51:54 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3 Gear Shift Lever In-Reply-To: <006801cde8f3$90c292a0$b247b7e0$@uprichard.net> References: <000001cde884$e6ffe6f0$b4ffb4d0$@net> <000501cde887$60f8f5d0$22eae170$@net> <000901cde892$9a2d9440$ce88bcc0$@net> <006801cde8f3$90c292a0$b247b7e0$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: Sorry, my mistake. Thanks Andrew for catching it. Stan -----Original Message----- From: Andrew Uprichard [mailto:auprichard at uprichard.net] Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2013 9:15 AM To: Foster, Stan (HP IT); cfmtr3a at verizon.net; 'Mark J Bradakis' Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 Gear Shift Lever Really? I just installed a shift lever 2 days ago, and there was a bolt going all the way through, so the spring and plunger had to be either facing forward or facing back. So I went to a parts car and checked there - facing back. One other interesting observation is that the plunger has a flat surface and a rounded one. Intuition would be that the rounded surface would point out from the lever, but in my 250 it wouldn't shift unless I had the flat surface facing out. In the TR3 it made no difference. Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Foster, Stan (HP IT) Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2013 11:36 PM To: cfmtr3a at verizon.net; 'Mark J Bradakis' Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Gear Shift Lever If you are sitting behind the gearbox facing the front of the car, the plunger/spring will be facing due left. The plastic wire tie stops the behavior that Mark is describing if you do it right. I find it easier to cinch up the wire tie first to not quite tight and then slide it over the plunger and the compressed spring. It may take a few tries but wire ties are cheap. Stan -----Original Message----- From: Carl-TR [mailto:cfmtr3a at verizon.net] Sent: Tuesday, January 1, 2013 9:41 PM To: Foster, Stan (HP IT); 'Mark J Bradakis' Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 Gear Shift Lever Which way does the spring/plunger face? or does it make a difference. Thanks Carl -----Original Message----- From: Foster, Stan (HP IT) [mailto:stan.foster at hp.com] Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2013 9:13 PM To: cfmtr3a at verizon.net Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 Gear Shift Lever Carl, the spring goes in the hole in the gear stick and the plunger goes in next. The idea is that the spring keeps the plunger engaged in the gate and stops the rattle. The easiest way to install this is to take a plastic wire tie and place it around the bottom of the gearstick so that it compresses the spring and holds the plunger in place in the hole. It takes a bit of finesse to get it all balanced. Then you place the gearstick into position and give it a sharp smack with your hand. The end will drop into the gate, the plunger and spring will remain where they should and you can lift away the wire tie. Stan -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl-TR Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2013 8:21 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Gear Shift Lever I went digging in my boxes. Found spring 37502 and plunger 112424. Now - all I need is to figure out how they go together. Anyone know? Thanks Carl 1961 TR3A - TS81802LO Tampa, Florida ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From McGaheyRx at aol.com Wed Jan 2 08:10:37 2013 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (Jack Mc) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2013 10:10:37 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 Differential oil fill plug In-Reply-To: <1357133043.2947.YahooMailNeo@web160403.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> References: <0F61DBD1-9721-4EAD-A82C-2CEF255D0BF6@gmail.com> <1357133043.2947.YahooMailNeo@web160403.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <93C20C90-89D6-452E-A9ED-B56B2FC7973B@aol.com> Robert, What you are looking for is an 8 point socket - works on square bolt heads with 4 of the 8 points - I've got a little set of 4 8-point sockets I got at either Harbor Fright or Northern Tool which contains the size you need for the differential and the size that fits the brake adjuster - I have Joe Alexander's tool that Dave Massey referenced and I prefer it for the brake adjuster, but if you have the 8 point socket for the diff plug and about a 2 foot extension, you can reach the diff plug with the right rear wheel off and apply a lot of torque to get a stubborn plug out. Of course the J.A. Tool is better for the gearbox fill plug - I'm glad I have both tools Cheers, Jack Mc Sent from my iPad On Jan 2, 2013, at 8:24 AM, robert rudolphi wrote: > Hello All, > > I went to top off my differential (74 TR6) yesterday and > noticed there is a square headed bolt that I don't seem to have a socket the > right size to fit. No matter what I used it seems to begin to strip. I was > wondering if anyone knew the correct size and name for the best socket to > remove this bolt. > > Thanks in advance for any assistance. > > Robert Rudolphi > 74 > TR6 > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mcgaheyrx at aol.com From tjwakeman at gmail.com Wed Jan 2 08:34:40 2013 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2013 08:34:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 Differential oil fill plug In-Reply-To: <93C20C90-89D6-452E-A9ED-B56B2FC7973B@aol.com> References: <0F61DBD1-9721-4EAD-A82C-2CEF255D0BF6@gmail.com> <1357133043.2947.YahooMailNeo@web160403.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> <93C20C90-89D6-452E-A9ED-B56B2FC7973B@aol.com> Message-ID: <50E45390.7030005@gmail.com> On 1/2/13 8:10 AM, Jack Mc wrote: > Robert, > > What you are looking for is an 8 point socket - works on square bolt heads > with 4 of the 8 points - I've got a little set of 4 8-point sockets I got at > either Harbor Fright or Northern Tool which contains the size you need for the > differential You mean I didn't have to chase down a Snap-On truck to get a very expensive 8 point socket to fit my square head drain plug? Oh well, I've always preferred snap-on tools whenever I could afford one and only needed one size. TeriAnn 1961 TR3A 1960 Land Rover Dormobile I don't need any other cars. They would just dilute my driving experience. From jholekamp at sbcglobal.net Wed Jan 2 08:44:26 2013 From: jholekamp at sbcglobal.net (Jay Holekamp) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2013 07:44:26 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] TR6 Differential oil fill plug Message-ID: <1357141466.25881.YahooMailRC@web184406.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> The square-head GBX fill & drain plugs and the differential fill plug (no drain plug unfortunately) on my '64 TR4 are easily turned with a 7/16" 8 point 3/8" drive socket; about $ 6.00 from McMaster Carr - 5544A54. 5544A54 5544A54 Jay '64 Triumph TR4 since '67 From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Wed Jan 2 08:50:53 2013 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2013 07:50:53 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Causes of fast idle TR3 In-Reply-To: <3B264D39B4C1444A95182CE1D91C672F@bboffice> References: <1357090957.8426.YahooMailNeo@web120005.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <3B264D39B4C1444A95182CE1D91C672F@bboffice> Message-ID: <1357141853.33271.YahooMailNeo@web120005.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Bill i will post loud and often. :-) but so far no suggestions at all. Frank From: Wbeech To: 'Frank Fisher' ; 'Triumphs' Sent: Tuesday, January 1, 2013 8:50 PM Subject: RE: [TR] Causes of fast idle TR3 Frank, Please post the successful result, I have the same problem. I can pull back on the accel pedal and reduce the engine speed by 500rpm. Springs are all good, tight and in the proper slots. I did notice that a friends 1962 Morgan, TR3 motor, has an additional return spring off a bracket mounted to the front exhaust mani-bolt. I can get a little bog when I spray started fluid at one of the newly re-bushed butterfly rods, but the is no play there. All the best, Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby" '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab) www.triumphowners.com/1566 '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" "If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow" M.Andretti -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Fisher Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2013 7:43 PM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] Causes of fast idle TR3 happy new year to all B Since putting the TR3 back on the road I have suffered an idle speed that I canbt get below around 1300/1400 at best. Now that the season is over I decided to fix some things. When I put the car back on the road I did not rebuild some parts under the premises of bif it aint brokeb and i donbt spend cash I donbt have. B B Had my distributor rebuilt by Advanced. Fitted that today. B Decided to work the carbs myself. In the past when I sprayed a little starting fluid at the ends of the throttle shafts it would bog down the motor..Just a little. It did NOT increase engine speed. I am running the TR4 PCV valve setup. The round pancake type. All new diaphragm. While checking the disassembled carb body I found the old throttle shafts to be worn. About 0.010b undersize. But I found the existing bushings to be only 0.002 max out of round and no worse than the new bushings I had to replace them. So I did not replace the bushings. Max clearance now from new throttle shaft to old bushings are from .002 to .0035. I have access to a very big fully equipped machine shop with excellent facilities for measuring. Ibm confident in those numbers. Installed new butterfly valves with the Ground surfaces to mate against carb. B fitted the carbs today also. B Got the car together today and I have no improvement in reducing the idle speed. B If I put my foot under the gas pedal and pull it up, I can reduce idle speed by about 300. it was always like that. adding a spring strong enought to do that for me made the pedal horribly heavy. B Disengaged the PCV valve to see if there was an air leak. No. B Squirted starter fluif around the intake manifold. No change in idle speed. B I guess I did not spray the throttle shaft again! Duh! Will check that Saturday again. B Car runs, but not right just yet. I think I need to play with the timing some. No power at low revs, kicks into power at about 2000. I think that I just need to mess with ignition for now. Exhaust note has changed though. Sounds like a tractor now and I donbt have the 2500 howl. B Any thoughts on where to start looking for cause of idle speed will be appreciated and tried this coming Saturday B Thanks Frank ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From sukatr3 at gmail.com Wed Jan 2 10:52:31 2013 From: sukatr3 at gmail.com (HANS DEFERRANTE) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2013 09:52:31 -0800 Subject: [TR] Spit.1500 Trunk Light Switch In-Reply-To: <25073082.1357144950168.JavaMail.root@mswamui-backed.atl.sa.earthlink.net> References: <25073082.1357144950168.JavaMail.root@mswamui-backed.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <6B4F8D49-A869-487B-817F-C028AC336815@gmail.com> Thanks Roger, I found it !. As soon as I read your email I remembered It. Do you by any chance have a post '75 California Spit . There are 2 mysterious wire connectors coming out of the wire harness near those relays/flashers on the firewall in the engine bay. Are they intended to connect to EGR test equipment of sorts? The wiring diagram shows some sort of plug connector that seemed to be missing when I bought it but the wire color code is different. Happy New Year! Hans On Jan 2, 2013, at 8:42 AM, Roger Elliott wrote: > Hi Hans, > > The switch is on the left hand side and activated by the trunk hinge. > > Let me know if you haven't gotten any pictures. I can take one and send it to you but it will tonight before I can get to it. > > Roger > > > -----Original Message----- >> From: HANS DEFERRANTE >> Sent: Jan 1, 2013 10:13 PM >> To: Triumph List >> Subject: [TR] Spit.1500 Trunk Light Switch >> >> Hi List, >> I am restoring a Spit 1500 and can't remember or figure out where and how the >> trunk light switch is located. Could someone help me out, preferably with a >> pic? >> Thanks >> Hans >> 61TR3A >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/elliottr at rmi.net From wbeech at flash.net Wed Jan 2 11:20:19 2013 From: wbeech at flash.net (WBEECH) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2013 12:20:19 -0600 Subject: [TR] Causes of fast idle TR3 In-Reply-To: <1357141853.33271.YahooMailNeo@web120005.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1357090957.8426.YahooMailNeo@web120005.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <3B264D39B4C1444A95182CE1D91C672F@bboffice> <1357141853.33271.YahooMailNeo@web120005.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <7B19217D-222E-4AF5-89C6-E02A742A4BB7@flash.net> I'm wondering if the butterfly alignment could be a little out of line. Thinking of pulling them off and loosen & re-tightening them. Bill Sent from mobile Bill On Jan 2, 2013, at 9:50 AM, Frank Fisher wrote: Bill i will post loud and often. :-) but so far no suggestions at all. Frank From: Wbeech To: 'Frank Fisher' ; 'Triumphs' Sent: Tuesday, January 1, 2013 8:50 PM Subject: RE: [TR] Causes of fast idle TR3 Frank, Please post the successful result, I have the same problem. I can pull back on the accel pedal and reduce the engine speed by 500rpm. Springs are all good, tight and in the proper slots. I did notice that a friends 1962 Morgan, TR3 motor, has an additional return spring off a bracket mounted to the front exhaust mani-bolt. I can get a little bog when I spray started fluid at one of the newly re-bushed butterfly rods, but the is no play there. All the best, Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby" '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab) www.triumphowners.com/1566 '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" "If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow" M.Andretti -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Fisher Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2013 7:43 PM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] Causes of fast idle TR3 happy new year to all B Since putting the TR3 back on the road I have suffered an idle speed that I canbt get below around 1300/1400 at best. Now that the season is over I decided to fix some things. When I put the car back on the road I did not rebuild some parts under the premises of bif it aint brokeb and i donbt spend cash I donbt have. B B Had my distributor rebuilt by Advanced. Fitted that today. B Decided to work the carbs myself. In the past when I sprayed a little starting fluid at the ends of the throttle shafts it would bog down the motor..Just a little. It did NOT increase engine speed. I am running the TR4 PCV valve setup. The round pancake type. All new diaphragm. While checking the disassembled carb body I found the old throttle shafts to be worn. About 0.010b undersize. But I found the existing bushings to be only 0.002 max out of round and no worse than the new bushings I had to replace them. So I did not replace the bushings. Max clearance now from new throttle shaft to old bushings are from .002 to .0035. I have access to a very big fully equipped machine shop with excellent facilities for measuring. Ibm confident in those numbers. Installed new butterfly valves with the Ground surfaces to mate against carb. B fitted the carbs today also. B Got the car together today and I have no improvement in reducing the idle speed. B If I put my foot under the gas pedal and pull it up, I can reduce idle speed by about 300. it was always like that. adding a spring strong enought to do that for me made the pedal horribly heavy. B Disengaged the PCV valve to see if there was an air leak. No. B Squirted starter fluif around the intake manifold. No change in idle speed. B I guess I did not spray the throttle shaft again! Duh! Will check that Saturday again. B Car runs, but not right just yet. I think I need to play with the timing some. No power at low revs, kicks into power at about 2000. I think that I just need to mess with ignition for now. Exhaust note has changed though. Sounds like a tractor now and I donbt have the 2500 howl. B Any thoughts on where to start looking for cause of idle speed will be appreciated and tried this coming Saturday B Thanks Frank ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From creig555 at live.com Wed Jan 2 12:13:02 2013 From: creig555 at live.com (Creig Houghtaling) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2013 13:13:02 -0600 Subject: [TR] Returning to the "Triumphs" list Message-ID: Hello Triumph list members, I have been away from this list for several years. I've been hanging out on the wedge list since that is what I have been playing with mostly. But I have come back to this list because I have a friend who is looking for a TR to restore. He has been checking every Craigslist and Ebay listing he can find within about 500 miles of St. Louis MO. He has found several cars, but hasn't found the one he wants yet. So I figured I could get him on this list and perhaps someone on this list might know of something he might be interested in. I think he likes the TR250 best, then the TR4. Then maybe the TR6 or TR3. He enjoyed restoring a TR3 many years ago. Now he has time & money, and the desire to do another car. This is my first posting since signing up this morning. If this is working, I'll get my friend to sign on as soon as he can so he can talk to everyone directly. Creig Houghtaling 314-401-7817 St. Louis Triumph Owners Association www.sltoa.org From bkahler1 at gmail.com Wed Jan 2 12:39:25 2013 From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2013 14:39:25 -0500 Subject: [TR] Miata seats and A.R.E seat track adapters - for sale Message-ID: Sorry to bomb the list but I know a lot of people have considered swapping to Miata seats in the TRs so I'm hoping someone might be interested. I have a nice brown leather set of seats from a 2000 Miata, modified Miata seat tracks and the A.R.E (Joe Alexander) seat track adapters for sale. Contact me off list if interested. Seats are located in Richmond Kentucky. Brad From don.hiscock at gmail.com Wed Jan 2 12:40:25 2013 From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2013 13:40:25 -0600 Subject: [TR] Returning to the "Triumphs" list In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Welcome back, Creig. I expect you'll soon be up to your ears in TRs... Maybe not so many TR250s, though. They're pretty hot and not getting any less popular these days. I still think about my very first car, a TR250, with fond memories. Don On 1/2/13, Creig Houghtaling wrote: > Hello Triumph list members, > I have been away from this list for several years. I've been hanging out > on > the wedge list since that is what I have been playing with mostly. But I > have > come back to this list because I have a friend who is looking for a TR to > restore. He has been checking every Craigslist and Ebay listing he can > find > within about 500 miles of St. Louis MO. He has found several cars, but > hasn't > found the one he wants yet. So I figured I could get him on this list and > perhaps someone on this list might know of something he might be interested > in. I think he likes the TR250 best, then the TR4. Then maybe the TR6 or > TR3. He enjoyed restoring a TR3 many years ago. Now he has time & money, > and > the desire to do another car. > This is my first posting since signing up this morning. If this is > working, > I'll get my friend to sign on as soon as he can so he can talk to everyone > directly. > Creig Houghtaling 314-401-7817 > St. Louis Triumph Owners Association > www.sltoa.org > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com From dave1massey at cs.com Wed Jan 2 13:32:01 2013 From: dave1massey at cs.com (Dave Massey) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2013 15:32:01 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] TR3 Windshield Frame Message-ID: <8CFB73F5A9A7F17-2204-7DB09@webmail-m018.sysops.aol.com> I have disassembled my TR3 windshile frame which included removing the Tenax fastners. I fou8nd that in addition to the two that were missing some more were epoxied in. I know there was a thread just the other week about this and the concensus was to use the through-the-frame fasteners and this is a viable solution but since I am about to take the parts to be chrome plated I have the opportunity to fix this in a way that I can avoid that since these may run afoul of the glass. Has anyone repaired these holes suitable for retapping. I think the frame is made of brass. If so then perhaps it is possible to build up a bead of solder and tap that. Remember that these will go to the plater so any subtle cosmetic damage can be repaired. Thanks in advance. Dave Massey From JGILLIS at tcd.ie Wed Jan 2 13:46:10 2013 From: JGILLIS at tcd.ie (John Gillis) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2013 20:46:10 +0000 Subject: [TR] Flat spot results Message-ID: Thanks to all on the advice, it appears (given several adjustments) that Randall hit the proverbial nail on the head yet again. The oil in the dashpot was well below the 1/2 inch above the central spindle. I am using the proprietary dashpot oil, so presuming the grade is correct. Regards John From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jan 1 19:45:31 2013 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2013 18:45:31 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3 Gear Shift Lever In-Reply-To: <000501cde887$60f8f5d0$22eae170$@net> Message-ID: <5B.34.16644.64F93E05@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> > I went digging in my boxes. Found spring 37502 and plunger 112424. > Now - all I need is to figure out how they go together. Spring goes in the hole, plunger goes on top of it. Smear the plunger with heavy grease, to hopefully hold it in place while you install the lever. -- Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jan 2 10:17:21 2013 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2013 09:17:21 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR6 Differential oil fill plug In-Reply-To: <93C20C90-89D6-452E-A9ED-B56B2FC7973B@aol.com> Message-ID: > What you are looking for is an 8 point socket - works on > square bolt heads with 4 of the 8 points - I've got a little > set of 4 8-point sockets I got at either Harbor Fright or > Northern Tool which contains the size you need for the > differential and the size that fits the brake adjuster You can also buy the individual sockets at Sears. I prefer a 1/2" drive for the diff plug, as they are sometimes extremely tight; and a 1/4" drive for the brake adjuster. I've also been known to replace the plugs with hardened hex socket plugs (from MMC), which seem less apt to strip and at least in some circumstances easier to access http://goo.gl/yg4ga MMC also has them in magnetic, which I like to use for drain plugs http://goo.gl/qS9pX -- Randall From yellowtr at adelphia.net Wed Jan 2 12:35:47 2013 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2013 14:35:47 -0500 Subject: [TR] Returning to the "Triumphs" list In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <50E48C13.30904@adelphia.net> Craig, Welcome back! The TR4s are getting hard to come by but there were a few on Ebay awhile back. I believe there is one in restore able shape on ebay right now in the southern tier of NY. Frequent Triumph ebay seller. If your friend cant find something nearby, expand the search. He can always do what I did when I got my 4. Fly to the location, rent a truck/trailer and drive it home. A lot more fun if you can talk a buddy to help out! And I did it in the middle of winter! Bob On 01/02/2013 02:13 PM, Creig Houghtaling wrote: > Hello Triumph list members, > I have been away from this list for several years. I've been hanging out on > the wedge list since that is what I have been playing with mostly. But I have > come back to this list because I have a friend who is looking for a TR to > restore. He has been checking every Craigslist and Ebay listing he can find > within about 500 miles of St. Louis MO. He has found several cars, but hasn't > found the one he wants yet. So I figured I could get him on this list and > perhaps someone on this list might know of something he might be interested > in. I think he likes the TR250 best, then the TR4. Then maybe the TR6 or > TR3. He enjoyed restoring a TR3 many years ago. Now he has time & money, and > the desire to do another car. > This is my first posting since signing up this morning. If this is working, > I'll get my friend to sign on as soon as he can so he can talk to everyone > directly. > Creig Houghtaling 314-401-7817 > St. Louis Triumph Owners Association > www.sltoa.org > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr at adelphia.net From tfansher at comcast.net Wed Jan 2 14:53:23 2013 From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2013 21:53:23 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Happy New Yeart In-Reply-To: <20945694.1056850.1357011288929.JavaMail.root@vznit170130> Message-ID: <633714613.2027862.1357163603327.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Carl, I don't think that "Yeart" is quite up there with "fluif", but it's ok. Happy New Yeart to you, too. Tom ;^) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Carl TR" To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, December 31, 2012 10:34:48 PM Subject: [TR] Happy New Yeart We are heading to bed as we have a 400 mile trip tomorrow to get back home. B B I would like to wish all of you a very happy and triumphant new year. B I know I am looking forward to 2013 and getting the '3 back on the road. B B Carl 1961 TR3A - TS81802LO Florida From wbeech at flash.net Wed Jan 2 15:01:07 2013 From: wbeech at flash.net (WBEECH) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2013 16:01:07 -0600 Subject: [TR] Happy New Yeart In-Reply-To: <633714613.2027862.1357163603327.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <633714613.2027862.1357163603327.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <68BBF021-3161-4ACB-A19F-B61D5136DAD5@flash.net> Maybe someone got a new yurt for Christmas ? Sent from mobile Bill On Jan 2, 2013, at 3:53 PM, tfansher at comcast.net wrote: Carl, I don't think that "Yeart" is quite up there with "fluif", but it's ok. Happy New Yeart to you, too. Tom ;^) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Carl TR" To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, December 31, 2012 10:34:48 PM Subject: [TR] Happy New Yeart We are heading to bed as we have a 400 mile trip tomorrow to get back home. B B I would like to wish all of you a very happy and triumphant new year. B I know I am looking forward to 2013 and getting the '3 back on the road. B B Carl 1961 TR3A - TS81802LO Florida ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From yellowtr at adelphia.net Wed Jan 2 12:38:49 2013 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2013 14:38:49 -0500 Subject: [TR] Causes of fast idle TR3 In-Reply-To: <7B19217D-222E-4AF5-89C6-E02A742A4BB7@flash.net> References: <1357090957.8426.YahooMailNeo@web120005.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <3B264D39B4C1444A95182CE1D91C672F@bboffice> <1357141853.33271.YahooMailNeo@web120005.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <7B19217D-222E-4AF5-89C6-E02A742A4BB7@flash.net> Message-ID: <50E48CC9.2050700@adelphia.net> Bill, That would be my first guess. Best way to do this is to just back off the adjustments, disconnect the linkage and re-tighten. Take the air filters off so you can insure the butterflies are parked. Recheck after tightening the linkage. Another reason, could be a vacuum leak. Bob On 01/02/2013 01:20 PM, WBEECH wrote: > I'm wondering if the butterfly alignment could be a little out of line. > Thinking of pulling them off and loosen & re-tightening them. > > Bill > > Sent from mobile Bill From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jan 2 14:36:34 2013 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2013 16:36:34 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Windshield Frame In-Reply-To: <8CFB73F5A9A7F17-2204-7DB09@webmail-m018.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <20130102213634.Z4UUG.151857.root@cdptpa-web19-z01> > Has anyone repaired these holes suitable for retapping. As it happens, I had a conversation with a local club member just yesterday about this. What he told me was to start with a 1/4-28 steel bolt, which you drill (preferably in a lathe so the hole is on-center) and tap for the Tenax stud. (10-32 I think, but please double check.) He claims the hex part of the stud will cover the end of the bolt, making the repair invisible once the stud is installed. I don't think Loctite would survive the chroming process, but you could probably stake the bolt in place and have them chrome right over it. Personally, I don't care about the "exposed" head. It is so nearly invisible that I had to look closely to find them on a car that used the "through the frame" fasteners originally. Since they were original equipment on some cars, it seems unlikely that even a concours judge would mark you down for that. But you would know better than I Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jan 1 19:41:34 2013 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2013 18:41:34 -0800 Subject: [TR] Causes of fast idle TR3 In-Reply-To: <1357090957.8426.YahooMailNeo@web120005.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: > Any thoughts on where to start looking for cause of idle > speed will be appreciated and tried this coming Saturday I assume you have already backed off the idle stop screws, and stuck a feeler gauge in the gap to be sure the stop lever isn't hitting the stop. I once found a burr in there that may or may not have been causing trouble. My next step would be to loosen the pinch bolt for the lever to the linkage on the front shaft. If the idle drops, you know the linkage is binding somewhere. Press down on the idle screws (which are still backed off so they don't touch) just to be sure. Might also be worth opening the throttle quickly (just grab the fast idle lever) and letting it slam shut. Block off the PCV again, and spray some starting fluid or WD40 around the blockage and where the fitting joins the manifold. As before, any change in rpm (either up or down) indicates that you've found a leak. Next step, loosen the linkage between the carbs, then listen at the intakes to see which carb is passing more air. Pull that carb off and start looking for how air is getting past the throttle plate. I don't mean to criticize, but I'm guessing you'll find that either the plate isn't centered as well as you thought; or got turned back to front somehow. When my shafts were worn so badly that the engine wouldn't idle; I could get the idle rpm down by blipping the throttle. The wear in the shaft (and carb bodies) was letting the front plate drag against the bore and bind if I closed it by gradually letting off the throttle. If that went on long enough, I suppose it is possible that the bore would be worn into an oval shape that the round throttle plate would no longer fit properly. One last thought; on my last go-round I discovered that the idle stop lever was installed too far away from the throttle plate, so there was a gap. That allowed the shaft to move forward slightly when the throttle was open, and then the plate would drag against the side of the bore as it closed. It eventually wore a step into the bore big enough to hang up on (even though it was hard to see the step with the naked eye). Inserting a shim next to the lever, recentering the plate with the lever pushed up against the body, and setting the return spring with the clip as close to the carb body as I could get it (so it supplied some end force on the shaft) made a big improvement. > Had my distributor rebuilt by Advanced. Fitted that today. Did you set the timing per his specifications? From comments others have made, I believe he uses a curve with less advance, so the initial timing should be somewhere around 12 BTDC instead of the factory 4 BTDC. Of course, that will make it even harder to get the idle rpm down. -- Randall From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk Wed Jan 2 16:20:31 2013 From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2013 23:20:31 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] BBC Drama tries to hoodwink - and fails Message-ID: <1357168831.13455.YahooMailNeo@web171901.mail.ir2.yahoo.com> Watched an excellent TV drama programme last night that had a great plot but was badly let down by the cars used. Sometimes (though not often) researchers really do screw things badly. Programme was a two part drama focussing on Allied and Russian Intelligence services in WW2 early years for part of the story line and the rest in the early 70's - with some scenes shot in "UK" and others in "USA." Okay, the scenery for a small Texas township just across the border from Mexico adequately conveyed the location but as the "story time" at that point was 1941, seeing a black and red Triumph Roadster in RHD and a 1946 Austin 14 camouflaged to look like something out of Detroit was hardly convincing. Plenty of time for a good look on several occasions, so no mistaken identities. Programme was called "Restless" for those who want a low budget production with the wrong cars at the wrong times - but a good thriller plot. Jonmac From dave1massey at cs.com Wed Jan 2 20:44:58 2013 From: dave1massey at cs.com (Dave Massey) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2013 22:44:58 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] TR3 Windshield Frame In-Reply-To: <20130102213634.Z4UUG.151857.root@cdptpa-web19-z01> References: <20130102213634.Z4UUG.151857.root@cdptpa-web19-z01> Message-ID: <8CFB77BD61F2A5F-B98-7A8E9@webmail-m129.sysops.aol.com> That's a clever solution. According to the Moss catalog these are 2BA thread but that's not a problem since I have a set of British taps. Now. Thanks. Dave Massey -----Original Message----- From: Randall To: triumphs ; Dave Massey Sent: Wed, Jan 2, 2013 3:36 pm Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Windshield Frame > Has anyone repaired these holes suitable for retapping. As it happens, I had a conversation with a local club member just yesterday about this. What he told me was to start with a 1/4-28 steel bolt, which you drill (preferably in a lathe so the hole is on-center) and tap for the Tenax stud. (10-32 I think, but please double check.) He claims the hex part of the stud will cover the end of the bolt, making the repair invisible once the stud is installed. I don't think Loctite would survive the chroming process, but you could probably stake the bolt in place and have them chrome right over it. Personally, I don't care about the "exposed" head. It is so nearly invisible that I had to look closely to find them on a car that used the "through the frame" fasteners originally. Since they were original equipment on some cars, it seems unlikely that even a concours judge would mark you down for that. But you would know better than I Randall From elliottr at rmi.net Thu Jan 3 05:22:13 2013 From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott) Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2013 06:22:13 -0600 Subject: [TR] Spit.1500 Trunk Light Switch In-Reply-To: <6B4F8D49-A869-487B-817F-C028AC336815@gmail.com> References: <25073082.1357144950168.JavaMail.root@mswamui-backed.atl.sa.earthlink.net> <6B4F8D49-A869-487B-817F-C028AC336815@gmail.com> Message-ID: <50E577F5.4030204@rmi.net> Hi Hans, I have an 80 Federal model. I think I have a couple of wires in that area that were never hooked up and a couple more that I have because of changes to the ignition. If you can send me a picture, I will see if I can figure out what they go to. Roger On 01/02/2013 11:52 AM, HANS DEFERRANTE wrote: > Thanks Roger, > I found it !. As soon as I read your email I remembered It. Do you by any chance have a post '75 California Spit . There are 2 mysterious wire connectors coming out of the wire harness near those relays/flashers on the firewall in the engine bay. Are they intended to connect to EGR test equipment of sorts? The wiring diagram shows some sort of plug connector that seemed to be missing when I bought it but the wire color code is different. > Happy New Year! > Hans From jdemuth at ties2.net Thu Jan 3 08:31:02 2013 From: jdemuth at ties2.net (Joe DeMuth) Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2013 09:31:02 -0600 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 6, Issue 4 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <56C9E48F-79F4-4544-8F59-B2F2D4140456@ties2.net> Pat, this popped up on TR user group today. On Jan 2, 2013, at 4:56 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > Message: 2 > Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2013 14:39:25 -0500 > From: Brad Kahler > To: Triumphs > Subject: [TR] Miata seats and A.R.E seat track adapters - for sale > Message-ID: > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Sorry to bomb the list but I know a lot of people have considered swapping > to Miata seats in the TRs so I'm hoping someone might be interested. > > I have a nice brown leather set of seats from a 2000 Miata, modified Miata > seat tracks and the A.R.E (Joe Alexander) seat track adapters for sale. > > Contact me off list if interested. Seats are located in Richmond Kentucky. > > Brad From tjwakeman at gmail.com Thu Jan 3 09:02:03 2013 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2013 09:02:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] Cars in movies & TV In-Reply-To: <1357168831.13455.YahooMailNeo@web171901.mail.ir2.yahoo.com> References: <1357168831.13455.YahooMailNeo@web171901.mail.ir2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <50E5AB7B.7040201@gmail.com> On 1/2/13 4:20 PM, John Macartney wrote: > Watched an excellent TV drama programme last night that had a great plot but > was badly let down by the cars used. Sometimes (though not often) researchers > really do screw things badly. That sort of thing spoils a movie or episode for me. There was an American TV series in the 1990's called JAG. In one episode one of the main characters "Harm" met his half brother for the first time in Chechnya during the**second Chechen war. There was a Russian army arms convoy driving Land Rover 101 trucks. That totally distracted me from the story line. I Never knew the Russian Army had Land Rovers in service. 101's seem to be a standard fill in whenever an American movie company needs Eastern European military cargo trucks. That's the one episode that really stands out in my memory. Just because of the Russian military Land Rovers. So am I the only one when watching the classic chase scene in the movie Bullet pays attention to all the cars parked along the streets of San Francisco just to see the then common, now uncommon cars parked along the streets? MGs, Triumphs big Healeys, all the VW bugs & 356 Porches. TeriAnn From dave at ranteer.com Thu Jan 3 09:34:03 2013 From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave) Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2013 10:34:03 -0600 Subject: [TR] Cars in movies & TV In-Reply-To: <50E5AB7B.7040201@gmail.com> References: <1357168831.13455.YahooMailNeo@web171901.mail.ir2.yahoo.com> <50E5AB7B.7040201@gmail.com> Message-ID: <622EEF8AF9A14213BAA0A8B4EC369FFC@Datsun> my family is amused because I'll see an ad with a scantily dressed model and I'll be staring at the car in the background trying to figure out what it is . . . -----Original Message----- From: TeriAnn J. Wakeman Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2013 10:02 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Cars in movies & TV So am I the only one when watching the classic chase scene in the movie Bullet pays attention to all the cars parked along the streets of San Francisco just to see the then common, now uncommon cars parked along the streets? MGs, Triumphs big Healeys, all the VW bugs & 356 Porches. From bkahler1 at gmail.com Thu Jan 3 09:58:55 2013 From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2013 11:58:55 -0500 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 6, Issue 4 In-Reply-To: <56C9E48F-79F4-4544-8F59-B2F2D4140456@ties2.net> References: <56C9E48F-79F4-4544-8F59-B2F2D4140456@ties2.net> Message-ID: Thanks for all the replies, seats and tracks have been sold to the first responder. Thanks, Brad On Thu, Jan 3, 2013 at 10:31 AM, Joe DeMuth wrote: > Pat, this popped up on TR user group today. > > > On Jan 2, 2013, at 4:56 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > > Message: 2 > > Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2013 14:39:25 -0500 > > From: Brad Kahler > > To: Triumphs > > Subject: [TR] Miata seats and A.R.E seat track adapters - for sale > > Message-ID: > > ZQ_Wwj52YirDtrwo7NKga6HQjfFOcVBA at mail.gmail.com> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > > > Sorry to bomb the list but I know a lot of people have considered > swapping > > to Miata seats in the TRs so I'm hoping someone might be interested. > > > > I have a nice brown leather set of seats from a 2000 Miata, modified > Miata > > seat tracks and the A.R.E (Joe Alexander) seat track adapters for sale. > > > > Contact me off list if interested. Seats are located in Richmond > Kentucky. > > > > Brad > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bkahler1 at gmail.com From bkahler1 at gmail.com Thu Jan 3 10:05:00 2013 From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2013 12:05:00 -0500 Subject: [TR] Miata seats and A.R.E seat track adapters - for sale In-Reply-To: <76731E459EB54F86A535CF4C35DD0320@BobDell> References: <76731E459EB54F86A535CF4C35DD0320@BobDell> Message-ID: Bob, I had the seats installed in a 63 TR4. There was no issue with the soft top frame and the seat to steering wheel clearance were not an issue. Not having seen any other Miata seats or how they fit I can't say whether the fit was to tight or the same. The 2000 Miata seat tracks are definitely different than the earlier years and required more modifications. The biggest issue was the width. The 2000 and I assume later tracks had an additional bracket on the side that I had to cut off using a cut-off wheel in a hand grinder. Not difficult at all. Once those were off the mods to the tracks as detailed on your website were pretty much spot on. Brad On Wed, Jan 2, 2013 at 8:16 PM, Bob <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote: > Brad......... I thought that once you got to the 2000 Miata seats, they > were too wide for TR6 installation without making some major mods to the > soft top frame where it mounts to the B pillar. If you got them to fit with > no mods, let me know so I can update my web site on the Miata seat > conversion. > > Bob > > > Bob Danielson > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.**org/ > > 1975 TR6 modified with: > -Throttle Body Injection > -Toyota 5 Speed > -Nissan Differential > -AAW Wire Harness > -CVJs... and more > > -----Original Message----- From: Brad Kahler > Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2013 2:39 PM > To: Triumphs > Subject: [TR] Miata seats and A.R.E seat track adapters - for sale > > Sorry to bomb the list but I know a lot of people have considered swapping > to Miata seats in the TRs so I'm hoping someone might be interested. > > I have a nice brown leather set of seats from a 2000 Miata, modified Miata > seat tracks and the A.R.E (Joe Alexander) seat track adapters for sale. > > Contact me off list if interested. Seats are located in Richmond Kentucky. > > Brad > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.**danielsonfamily.org From spitlist at cox.net Thu Jan 3 10:09:59 2013 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2013 10:09:59 -0700 Subject: [TR] Cars in movies & TV In-Reply-To: <622EEF8AF9A14213BAA0A8B4EC369FFC@Datsun> References: <1357168831.13455.YahooMailNeo@web171901.mail.ir2.yahoo.com><50E5AB7B.7040201@gmail.com> <622EEF8AF9A14213BAA0A8B4EC369FFC@Datsun> Message-ID: <3A7633EE08674BA1B36FE589AD3FC268@Vista> When I see the Bullitt chase scene, I always count the times the VW Bug appears in the shots. They obviously used the same vehicles in numerous parts of that continuous scene. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2013 9:34 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Cars in movies & TV my family is amused because I'll see an ad with a scantily dressed model and I'll be staring at the car in the background trying to figure out what it is . . . -----Original Message----- From: TeriAnn J. Wakeman Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2013 10:02 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Cars in movies & TV So am I the only one when watching the classic chase scene in the movie Bullet pays attention to all the cars parked along the streets of San Francisco just to see the then common, now uncommon cars parked along the streets? MGs, Triumphs big Healeys, all the VW bugs & 356 Porches. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Thu Jan 3 12:17:23 2013 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2013 11:17:23 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Cars in movies & TV Message-ID: <1357240643.20380.YahooMailNeo@web180901.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> I recently watched "Dirty Harry" and was enjoying the cars in the background. There is a red TR3 with top up about halfway through the movie. Bill in Tehachapi Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2013 09:02:03 -0700 From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Cars in movies & TV Message-ID: <50E5AB7B.7040201 at gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" On 1/2/13 4:20 PM, John Macartney wrote: > Watched an excellent TV drama programme last night that had a great plot but > was badly let down by the cars used. Sometimes (though not often) researchers > really do screw things badly. That sort of thing spoils a movie or episode for me. There was an American TV series in the 1990's called JAG. In one episode one of the main characters "Harm" met his half brother for the first time in Chechnya during the**second Chechen war. There was a Russian army arms convoy driving Land Rover 101 trucks. That totally distracted me from the story line. I Never knew the Russian Army had Land Rovers in service. 101's seem to be a standard fill in whenever an American movie company needs Eastern European military cargo trucks. That's the one episode that really stands out in my memory. Just because of the Russian military Land Rovers. So am I the only one when watching the classic chase scene in the movie Bullet pays attention to all the cars parked along the streets of San Francisco just to see the then common, now uncommon cars parked along the streets? MGs, Triumphs big Healeys, all the VW bugs & 356 Porches. TeriAnn From dctr6 at optonline.net Thu Jan 3 12:27:20 2013 From: dctr6 at optonline.net (Dennis Culligan) Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2013 14:27:20 -0500 Subject: [TR] Cars in movies & TV Message-ID: <000601cde9e8$59641c70$0c2c5550$@net> Joe Curry wrote: >When I see the Bullitt chase scene, I always count the times the VW Bug appears in the shots. They obviously used the >same vehicles in numerous parts of that continuous scene. They also filmed the chase from numerous angles and appeared to use ALL the film when they edited it together. Both cars pass that slow moving VW about 4 times on the same hill. Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U (appeared in "Comedians in Cars Getting Coffee" w/ Jerry Seinfeld) From tr3a58 at verizon.net Thu Jan 3 13:16:40 2013 From: tr3a58 at verizon.net (Dean Tetterton) Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2013 15:16:40 -0500 Subject: [TR] Cars in movies & TV In-Reply-To: <000601cde9e8$59641c70$0c2c5550$@net> References: <000601cde9e8$59641c70$0c2c5550$@net> Message-ID: <8BDE15ED-41F5-40ED-862D-6B7ED57969B1@verizon.net> On Jan 3, 2013, at 2:27 PM, Dennis Culligan wrote: > Joe Curry wrote: > >> When I see the Bullitt chase scene, I always count the times the VW Bug > appears in the shots. They obviously used the >same vehicles in numerous > parts of that continuous scene. > > > > They also filmed the chase from numerous angles and appeared to use ALL the > film when they edited it together. Both cars pass that slow moving VW about > 4 times on the same hill. > > > > Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U (appeared in "Comedians in > Cars Getting Coffee" w/ Jerry Seinfeld) > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3a58 at verizon.net From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Thu Jan 3 13:33:16 2013 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2013 12:33:16 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Cars in movies & TV In-Reply-To: <50E5AB7B.7040201@gmail.com> References: <1357168831.13455.YahooMailNeo@web171901.mail.ir2.yahoo.com> <50E5AB7B.7040201@gmail.com> Message-ID: <1357245196.28634.YahooMailNeo@web120001.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> nah im blessed with the same obsession. ever count the hubcaps that come off the dodge during the chase? Frank From: TeriAnn J. Wakeman To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, January 3, 2013 8:02 AM Subject: [TR] Cars in movies & TV On 1/2/13 4:20 PM, John Macartney wrote: > Watched an excellent TV drama programme last night that had a great plot but > was badly let down by the cars used. Sometimes (though not often) researchers > really do screw things badly. That sort of thing spoils a movie or episode for me. There was an American TV series in the 1990's called JAG. In one episode one of the main characters "Harm" met his half brother for the first time in Chechnya during the**second Chechen war. There was a Russian army arms convoy driving Land Rover 101 trucks. That totally distracted me from the story line. I Never knew the Russian Army had Land Rovers in service. 101's seem to be a standard fill in whenever an American movie company needs Eastern European military cargo trucks. That's the one episode that really stands out in my memory. Just because of the Russian military Land Rovers. So am I the only one when watching the classic chase scene in the movie Bullet pays attention to all the cars parked along the streets of San Francisco just to see the then common, now uncommon cars parked along the streets? MGs, Triumphs big Healeys, all the VW bugs & 356 Porches. TeriAnn ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From spitlist at cox.net Thu Jan 3 15:45:19 2013 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2013 15:45:19 -0700 Subject: [TR] Cars in movies & TV In-Reply-To: <000601cde9e8$59641c70$0c2c5550$@net> References: <000601cde9e8$59641c70$0c2c5550$@net> Message-ID: <6DC00844B5104B3289D4AD8DFA076F81@Vista> I watched an animated film by Steven Spielberg a couple of weeks ago entitled "The Adventures of Tintin". It was very entertaining and had excellent graphics for an animated film. Toward the very end of the picture was a great sequence that included either a TR2 or Small-mouth TR3. Some of you side screen guys can probably say for sure. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dennis Culligan Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2013 12:27 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Cars in movies & TV Joe Curry wrote: >When I see the Bullitt chase scene, I always count the times the VW Bug appears in the shots. They obviously used the >same vehicles in numerous parts of that continuous scene. They also filmed the chase from numerous angles and appeared to use ALL the film when they edited it together. Both cars pass that slow moving VW about 4 times on the same hill. Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U (appeared in "Comedians in Cars Getting Coffee" w/ Jerry Seinfeld) ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net From wbeech at flash.net Thu Jan 3 16:24:35 2013 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2013 17:24:35 -0600 Subject: [TR] Cars in movies & TV In-Reply-To: <6DC00844B5104B3289D4AD8DFA076F81@Vista> References: <000601cde9e8$59641c70$0c2c5550$@net> <6DC00844B5104B3289D4AD8DFA076F81@Vista> Message-ID: By the by, this has been posted before, there is a web site with all the interesting cars that show up in the movies. Take a look at your favorite here: http://www.imcdb.org/vehicles_make-Triumph.html Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby" '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab) www.triumphowners.com/1566 '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" "If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow" M.Andretti -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Curry Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2013 4:45 PM To: 'Dennis Culligan'; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Cars in movies & TV I watched an animated film by Steven Spielberg a couple of weeks ago entitled "The Adventures of Tintin". It was very entertaining and had excellent graphics for an animated film. Toward the very end of the picture was a great sequence that included either a TR2 or Small-mouth TR3. Some of you side screen guys can probably say for sure. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dennis Culligan Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2013 12:27 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Cars in movies & TV Joe Curry wrote: >When I see the Bullitt chase scene, I always count the times the VW Bug appears in the shots. They obviously used the >same vehicles in numerous parts of that continuous scene. They also filmed the chase from numerous angles and appeared to use ALL the film when they edited it together. Both cars pass that slow moving VW about 4 times on the same hill. Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U (appeared in "Comedians in Cars Getting Coffee" w/ Jerry Seinfeld) ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From spitlist at cox.net Thu Jan 3 16:30:55 2013 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2013 16:30:55 -0700 Subject: [TR] Cars in movies & TV In-Reply-To: References: <000601cde9e8$59641c70$0c2c5550$@net> <6DC00844B5104B3289D4AD8DFA076F81@Vista> Message-ID: <99A9976648DA46CB87861080548026D0@Vista> Thanks for that reference. Using it, I found the car I mentioned earlier: http://www.imcdb.org/vehicle_483886-Triumph-TR2-1955.html Joe -----Original Message----- From: Wbeech [mailto:wbeech at flash.net] Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2013 4:25 PM To: 'Joe Curry'; 'Dennis Culligan'; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [TR] Cars in movies & TV By the by, this has been posted before, there is a web site with all the interesting cars that show up in the movies. Take a look at your favorite here: http://www.imcdb.org/vehicles_make-Triumph.html Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby" '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab) www.triumphowners.com/1566 '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" "If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow" M.Andretti -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Curry Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2013 4:45 PM To: 'Dennis Culligan'; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Cars in movies & TV I watched an animated film by Steven Spielberg a couple of weeks ago entitled "The Adventures of Tintin". It was very entertaining and had excellent graphics for an animated film. Toward the very end of the picture was a great sequence that included either a TR2 or Small-mouth TR3. Some of you side screen guys can probably say for sure. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dennis Culligan Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2013 12:27 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Cars in movies & TV Joe Curry wrote: >When I see the Bullitt chase scene, I always count the times the VW Bug appears in the shots. They obviously used the >same vehicles in numerous parts of that continuous scene. They also filmed the chase from numerous angles and appeared to use ALL the film when they edited it together. Both cars pass that slow moving VW about 4 times on the same hill. Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U (appeared in "Comedians in Cars Getting Coffee" w/ Jerry Seinfeld) ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From trguy75 at gmail.com Thu Jan 3 17:35:56 2013 From: trguy75 at gmail.com (James Henningsen) Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2013 19:35:56 -0500 Subject: [TR] Part Request Message-ID: <004901cdea13$76b9d1e0$642d75a0$@gmail.com> Looking for a working original Triumph am radio (pos or neg polarity switch preferable) with the chrome look push buttons and handles. It is for an early 62 TR4. Please email me off list. Many thanks, Jim Henningsen Ocala FL 62 TR4 CT5212LO 75 TR6 Trguy75 at gmail.com From glemon at neb.rr.com Thu Jan 3 21:40:25 2013 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2013 22:40:25 -0600 Subject: [TR] Cars in movies & TV In-Reply-To: <50E5AB7B.7040201@gmail.com> References: <1357168831.13455.YahooMailNeo@web171901.mail.ir2.yahoo.com> <50E5AB7B.7040201@gmail.com> Message-ID: <72482BACEAC94A379A4FF1042C41C383@livingroompc> "So am I the only one when watching the classic chase scene in the movie Bullet pays attention to all the cars parked along the streets of San Francisco just to see the then common, now uncommon cars parked along the streets? MGs, Triumphs big Healeys, all the VW bugs & 356 Porches. TeriAnn" No, love to try to spot European cars in street scenes from American movies of the 50s - 70s, love to watch European movies of the same era and spot the rare and unusual cars. I do notice mistakes sometimes in modern movies but it is more of a sport or diversion than anything else. Mistakes don't ruin the flick for me, one thing that is prevalent, movies made today about about past eras, the cars are of course generally from the approximate right period, but they are all too nice, no rustbuckets or oil burners, of course they borrow cars from enthusiasts and such, mostly fully restored, I am sure it would be pretty hard to get a bunch of time warp original cars warts and all to fill a street scene. Greg Lemon From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Fri Jan 4 09:18:44 2013 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2013 08:18:44 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Part Request In-Reply-To: <004901cdea13$76b9d1e0$642d75a0$@gmail.com> References: <004901cdea13$76b9d1e0$642d75a0$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <1357316324.98771.YahooMailNeo@web120001.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> does it have to play only oldie's? From: James Henningsen To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, January 3, 2013 4:35 PM Subject: [TR] Part Request Looking for a working original Triumph am radio (pos or neg polarity switch preferable) with the chrome look push buttons and handles. It is for an early 62 TR4. Please email me off list. Many thanks, Jim Henningsen Ocala FL 62 TR4 CT5212LO 75 TR6 Trguy75 at gmail.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From l1j1s at aol.com Fri Jan 4 15:45:39 2013 From: l1j1s at aol.com (l1j1s at aol.com) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2013 17:45:39 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] TR-TR3-A part wanted Message-ID: <8CFB8E45A667939-1DD8-CC68@webmail-m063.sysops.aol.com> List,I am looking for my Tr3-a the bracket that goes on the bottom of the radiator that gets bolted to the front chassis frame.It is the 'L' shape bracket that measures maybe 18 inches long.If anyone has one that they can part with, then please contact me. Thanks, Larry Schwartz From trmarty at hotmail.com Fri Jan 4 17:38:56 2013 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2013 19:38:56 -0500 Subject: [TR] TRF Summer Party Message-ID: In case you are not on their email list, TRF has announced the dates for this years summer party. Aug. 1st, 2nd, 3rd. See you there. From mmarr at notwires.com Fri Jan 4 19:14:30 2013 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2013 20:14:30 -0600 Subject: [TR] Cars in movies & TV In-Reply-To: <50E5AB7B.7040201@gmail.com> References: <1357168831.13455.YahooMailNeo@web171901.mail.ir2.yahoo.com> <50E5AB7B.7040201@gmail.com> Message-ID: Nope, you are not the only one, TerriAnn. If you look carefully at that scene you will see that the same selection of cars are seen on parked on different streets during the chase. They must have moved them around between takes. I just saw "The Bank Job" which has an excellent selection of 60s vintage British cars. And it was a pretty good movie. Mike -------------------------------------------------- From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2013 10:02 AM To: Subject: [TR] Cars in movies & TV > On 1/2/13 4:20 PM, John Macartney wrote: >> Watched an excellent TV drama programme last night that had a great plot >> but >> was badly let down by the cars used. Sometimes (though not often) >> researchers >> really do screw things badly. > That sort of thing spoils a movie or episode for me. There was an > American TV series in the 1990's called JAG. In one episode one of the > main characters "Harm" met his half brother for the first time in > Chechnya during the**second Chechen war. There was a Russian army arms > convoy driving Land Rover 101 trucks. That totally distracted me from > the story line. I Never knew the Russian Army had Land Rovers in > service. 101's seem to be a standard fill in whenever an American movie > company needs Eastern European military cargo trucks. That's the one > episode that really stands out in my memory. Just because of the > Russian military Land Rovers. > > So am I the only one when watching the classic chase scene in the movie > Bullet pays attention to all the cars parked along the streets of San > Francisco just to see the then common, now uncommon cars parked along > the streets? MGs, Triumphs big Healeys, all the VW bugs & 356 Porches. > > TeriAnn > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mmarr at notwires.com From pethier at comcast.net Fri Jan 4 20:13:21 2013 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2013 03:13:21 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TRF Summer Party In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1062672707.615764.1357355601049.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Same time as the Lotus Owners Gathering in Corning NY. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier at comcast.net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica http://www.mnautox.com http://www.mntriumphs.org ----- Original Message ----- > From: "marty sukey" > To: "Triumph List" > Sent: Friday, January 4, 2013 6:38:56 PM > Subject: [TR] TRF Summer Party > In case you are not on their email list, TRF has announced the dates > for this > years summer party. Aug. 1st, 2nd, 3rd. > > See you there. > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jan 4 23:45:23 2013 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2013 22:45:23 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR-TR3-A part wanted In-Reply-To: <8CFB8E45A667939-1DD8-CC68@webmail-m063.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: > List,I am looking for my Tr3-a the bracket that goes on the > bottom of the radiator that gets bolted to the front chassis > frame. Larry, Are you talking about the guard for the lower tank, P/N 109487 ? I don't have one to offer, just not quite clear on what you are looking for. Maybe others aren't clear either. I don't think Ted reads the big list, so I'd try contacting him at tedtsimx at bright.net His web site says he has a TR3 that he is parting out. -- Randall From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk Sat Jan 5 04:12:44 2013 From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2013 11:12:44 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] Cars in movies & TV In-Reply-To: References: <1357168831.13455.YahooMailNeo@web171901.mail.ir2.yahoo.com> <50E5AB7B.7040201@gmail.com> Message-ID: <1357384364.65693.YahooMailNeo@web171902.mail.ir2.yahoo.com> When I worked at BMIHT some years ago, a film company rented some cars from the reserve collection for a TV production. Seems the cars were to be used driving along a distant street at right angles to the shoot. After the vehicles came home and were being cleaned up, we noticed they'd been repainted in an easy soluble water colour. Thing was, each car was painted in two different colours - one each side. As far as the cameras were concerned, this "doubled up" the cars going up and down the distant street. Jonmac ________________________________ From: Michael Marr To: TeriAnn J. Wakeman ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Saturday, 5 January 2013, 2:14 Subject: Re: [TR] Cars in movies & TV >Nope, you are not the only one, TerriAnn. If you look carefully at that scene you will see that the same selection of cars are seen on parked on different streets during the chase. They must have moved them around between takes. > >I just saw "The Bank Job" which has an excellent selection of 60s vintage British cars. And it was a pretty good movie. > >Mike > >-------------------------------------------------- >From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" >Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2013 10:02 AM >To: >Subject: [TR] Cars in movies & TV > >> On 1/2/13 4:20 PM, John Macartney wrote: >>> Watched an excellent TV drama programme last night that had a great plot but >>> was badly let down by the cars used. Sometimes (though not often) researchers >>> really do screw things badly. >> That sort of thing spoils a movie or episode for me. There was an >> American TV series in the 1990's called JAG. In one episode one of the >> main characters "Harm" met his half brother for the first time in >> Chechnya during the**second Chechen war. There was a Russian army arms >> convoy driving Land Rover 101 trucks. That totally distracted me from >> the story line. I Never knew the Russian Army had Land Rovers in >> service. 101's seem to be a standard fill in whenever an American movie >> company needs Eastern European military cargo trucks. That's the one >> episode that really stands out in my memory. Just because of the >> Russian military Land Rovers. >> >> So am I the only one when watching the classic chase scene in the movie >> Bullet pays attention to all the cars parked along the streets of San >> Francisco just to see the then common, now uncommon cars parked along >> the streets? MGs, Triumphs big Healeys, all the VW bugs & 356 Porches. >> >> TeriAnn >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mmarr at notwires.com > >** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk From will.daehler at gmail.com Sat Jan 5 10:11:50 2013 From: will.daehler at gmail.com (Will Daehler) Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2013 12:11:50 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 Badge Bar Message-ID: The new project begins. I just finished a serious upgrade to my Powder Blue TR4, by installing the worsted wool carpet kit that has been in the box since last spring. The job came out pretty well considering the special little challenges with grommets and snap rings. But now onto a more light hearted project: The badge bar. On eBay I won a TSOA badge and its successor, the VTR badge. Starting at Lowes, I bought a 24" chromium towel rod kit, and now just started playing with the hack saw. No pressure! From malcolm at ipatch.ca Sat Jan 5 10:15:49 2013 From: malcolm at ipatch.ca (Malcolm) Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2013 09:15:49 -0800 Subject: [TR] Storing sheet metal (fenders) Message-ID: Hi List, I've been lurking for a while now - some of you may remember me from the late '90s. Life has interrupted but I still have my TR4. I now also have the opportunity to buy a pair of rear fenders. However, they would have to be stored in my (unheated) workshop or the attic of our house, for a few months to a year, while I figure out how to get the TR4 into the workshop for a proper restoration. What do people recommend for treating the sheet metal for storage? Oil, grease, waxed paper, really big ziploc bags? Thanks in advance! -Malcolm '62 TR4 (CT10339L) From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Sat Jan 5 12:06:07 2013 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2013 11:06:07 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Storing sheet metal (fenders) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1357412767.29411.YahooMailNeo@web120005.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> provided they are not bare metal, just leave them alone. if bare metal have a body shop shoot a coat of epoxy primer on them. don't wrap them in poly bags. the moisture in the air will condense and evaporate many times and lead to rust problems. but even then it will not be severe rot. Frank ________________________________ From: Malcolm To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Saturday, January 5, 2013 9:15 AM Subject: [TR] Storing sheet metal (fenders) Hi List, I've been lurking for a while now - some of you may remember me from the late '90s. Life has interrupted but I still have my TR4. I now also have the opportunity to buy a pair of rear fenders. However, they would have to be stored in my (unheated) workshop or the attic of our house, for a few months to a year, while I figure out how to get the TR4 into the workshop for a proper restoration. What do people recommend for treating the sheet metal for storage? Oil, grease, waxed paper, really big ziploc bags? Thanks in advance! -Malcolm '62 TR4 (CT10339L) ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From gpr at key-men.com Sat Jan 5 12:22:57 2013 From: gpr at key-men.com (George Richardson) Date: Sat, 05 Jan 2013 14:22:57 -0500 Subject: [TR] Storing sheet metal (fenders) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <50E87D91.9000405@key-men.com> I've had a set of new fenders for my TR6 for more than 10 years now. I've had them outside for a year, inside for most of that time. Cover them so they stay dry and dust free, and you should have no problems unless they're bare metal. George Richardson Key Men - Keys for Classics www.key-men.com On 1/5/2013 12:15 PM, Malcolm wrote: > Hi List, > > I've been lurking for a while now - some of you may remember me from the > late '90s. Life has interrupted but I still have my TR4. > > I now also have the opportunity to buy a pair of rear fenders. However, > they would have to be stored in my (unheated) workshop or the attic of our > house, for a few months to a year, while I figure out how to get the TR4 > into the workshop for a proper restoration. > > What do people recommend for treating the sheet metal for storage? Oil, > grease, waxed paper, really big ziploc bags? > > Thanks in advance! > > -Malcolm > '62 TR4 (CT10339L) > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/gpr at key-men.com From jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com Sat Jan 5 13:13:22 2013 From: jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com (John Young) Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2013 12:13:22 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Storing sheet metal (fenders) In-Reply-To: <50E87D91.9000405@key-men.com> References: <50E87D91.9000405@key-men.com> Message-ID: <1357416802.78243.YahooMailNeo@web181104.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> I had that problem several years ago. I went to a body shop supply store and cought a spray can of primer. They said it would be OK for the type of paint I intended to use. You might see if they can provide you with some that will work for you, John Young NASS# 528 Indiana '78 Spitfire '66 Spitfire '59 TR3A (being repaired after 37 yrs ownership) ________________________________ From: George Richardson To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Saturday, January 5, 2013 2:22 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Storing sheet metal (fenders) I've had a set of new fenders for my TR6 for more than 10 years now. I've had them outside for a year, inside for most of that time. Cover them so they stay dry and dust free, and you should have no problems unless they're bare metal. George Richardson Key Men - Keys for Classics www.key-men.com On 1/5/2013 12:15 PM, Malcolm wrote: > Hi List, > > I've been lurking for a while now - some of you may remember me from the > late '90s. Life has interrupted but I still have my TR4. > > I now also have the opportunity to buy a pair of rear fenders. However, > they would have to be stored in my (unheated) workshop or the attic of our > house, for a few months to a year, while I figure out how to get the TR4 > into the workshop for a proper restoration. > > What do people recommend for treating the sheet metal for storage? Oil, > grease, waxed paper, really big ziploc bags? > > Thanks in advance! > > -Malcolm > '62 TR4 (CT10339L) > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/gpr at key-men.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com From spitlist at cox.net Sat Jan 5 14:10:51 2013 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2013 14:10:51 -0700 Subject: [TR] Storing sheet metal (fenders) In-Reply-To: <50E87D91.9000405@key-men.com> References: <50E87D91.9000405@key-men.com> Message-ID: <4A647429007845FB9CB4A0CD3D955A18@Vista> And if they are bare metal, priming with regular primer won't do much good. Use a good urethane primer which resists moisture. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of George Richardson Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2013 12:23 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Storing sheet metal (fenders) I've had a set of new fenders for my TR6 for more than 10 years now. I've had them outside for a year, inside for most of that time. Cover them so they stay dry and dust free, and you should have no problems unless they're bare metal. George Richardson Key Men - Keys for Classics www.key-men.com On 1/5/2013 12:15 PM, Malcolm wrote: > Hi List, > > I've been lurking for a while now - some of you may remember me from the > late '90s. Life has interrupted but I still have my TR4. > > I now also have the opportunity to buy a pair of rear fenders. However, > they would have to be stored in my (unheated) workshop or the attic of our > house, for a few months to a year, while I figure out how to get the TR4 > into the workshop for a proper restoration. > > What do people recommend for treating the sheet metal for storage? Oil, > grease, waxed paper, really big ziploc bags? > > Thanks in advance! > > -Malcolm > '62 TR4 (CT10339L) > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/gpr at key-men.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net From wbeech at flash.net Sat Jan 5 16:18:24 2013 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2013 17:18:24 -0600 Subject: [TR] Storing sheet metal (fenders) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <790899568D944ADA970128A767850F4C@bboffice> Go to your local automotive paint store and get a quart of 'Etch Primer", this will protect it until you are ready. Then you can sand it, prime it, paint it when you are ready. I like the Nason brand but there are others. Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby" '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab) www.triumphowners.com/1566 '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" "If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow" M.Andretti -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Malcolm Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2013 11:16 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Storing sheet metal (fenders) Hi List, I've been lurking for a while now - some of you may remember me from the late '90s. Life has interrupted but I still have my TR4. I now also have the opportunity to buy a pair of rear fenders. However, they would have to be stored in my (unheated) workshop or the attic of our house, for a few months to a year, while I figure out how to get the TR4 into the workshop for a proper restoration. What do people recommend for treating the sheet metal for storage? Oil, grease, waxed paper, really big ziploc bags? Thanks in advance! -Malcolm '62 TR4 (CT10339L) ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From dixie4.wales at virgin.net Sun Jan 6 03:56:15 2013 From: dixie4.wales at virgin.net (ADRIAN DIX-DYER) Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2013 10:56:15 +0000 Subject: [TR] Storing sheet metal (fenders) In-Reply-To: <790899568D944ADA970128A767850F4C@bboffice> References: <790899568D944ADA970128A767850F4C@bboffice> Message-ID: I bare metaled my front wings (fenders) by sandblasting 10 years ago. Then I sprayed them immediately with a high concentrate zinc primer the kind they use on ocean based oil rigs to stop rust. They have been stored in my unheated garage since, awaiting the day I finally get the car together, no detectable rust. I live in Wales UK which has a very damp climate winter and summer. Zinc primer works for me. Adrian TR4A CT64306 O Wales UK. On 5 January 2013 23:18, Wbeech wrote: > Go to your local automotive paint store and get a quart of 'Etch Primer", > this will protect it until you are ready. Then you can sand it, prime it, > paint it when you are ready. I like the Nason brand but there are others. > > Bill > > Bill Beecher > '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby" > '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab) > www.triumphowners.com/1566 > '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" > "If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow" > M.Andretti > > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Malcolm > Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2013 11:16 AM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] Storing sheet metal (fenders) > > Hi List, > > I've been lurking for a while now - some of you may remember me from the > late '90s. Life has interrupted but I still have my TR4. > > I now also have the opportunity to buy a pair of rear fenders. However, > they would have to be stored in my (unheated) workshop or the attic of our > house, for a few months to a year, while I figure out how to get the TR4 > into the workshop for a proper restoration. > > What do people recommend for treating the sheet metal for storage? Oil, > grease, waxed paper, really big ziploc bags? > > Thanks in advance! > > -Malcolm > '62 TR4 (CT10339L) > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dixie4.wales at virgin.net From auprichard at uprichard.net Sun Jan 6 05:12:00 2013 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2013 07:12:00 -0500 Subject: [TR] Storing sheet metal (fenders) In-Reply-To: References: <790899568D944ADA970128A767850F4C@bboffice> Message-ID: <000001cdec07$14e91c00$3ebb5400$@uprichard.net> Eastwood sells a product called "After Blast" which can be wiped on with a cloth. Lasts indefinitely. Quick scuff with a DA and you are ready to start bodywork and/or prime. Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of ADRIAN DIX-DYER Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2013 5:56 AM To: Wbeech Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Storing sheet metal (fenders) I bare metaled my front wings (fenders) by sandblasting 10 years ago. Then I sprayed them immediately with a high concentrate zinc primer the kind they use on ocean based oil rigs to stop rust. They have been stored in my unheated garage since, awaiting the day I finally get the car together, no detectable rust. I live in Wales UK which has a very damp climate winter and summer. Zinc primer works for me. Adrian TR4A CT64306 O Wales UK. On 5 January 2013 23:18, Wbeech wrote: > Go to your local automotive paint store and get a quart of 'Etch > Primer", this will protect it until you are ready. Then you can sand > it, prime it, paint it when you are ready. I like the Nason brand but there are others. > > Bill > > Bill Beecher > '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby" > '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab) > www.triumphowners.com/1566 > '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" > "If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow" > M.Andretti > > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Malcolm > Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2013 11:16 AM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] Storing sheet metal (fenders) > > Hi List, > > I've been lurking for a while now - some of you may remember me from > the late '90s. Life has interrupted but I still have my TR4. > > I now also have the opportunity to buy a pair of rear fenders. > However, they would have to be stored in my (unheated) workshop or the > attic of our house, for a few months to a year, while I figure out how > to get the TR4 into the workshop for a proper restoration. > > What do people recommend for treating the sheet metal for storage? > Oil, grease, waxed paper, really big ziploc bags? > > Thanks in advance! > > -Malcolm > '62 TR4 (CT10339L) > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dixie4.wales at virgin.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From auprichard at uprichard.net Sun Jan 6 05:13:06 2013 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2013 07:13:06 -0500 Subject: [TR] Storing sheet metal (fenders) In-Reply-To: References: <790899568D944ADA970128A767850F4C@bboffice> Message-ID: <000101cdec07$31988de0$94c9a9a0$@uprichard.net> Ten years ago? We'll put you down as a type B......................... :-) Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of ADRIAN DIX-DYER Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2013 5:56 AM To: Wbeech Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Storing sheet metal (fenders) I bare metaled my front wings (fenders) by sandblasting 10 years ago. Then I sprayed them immediately with a high concentrate zinc primer the kind they use on ocean based oil rigs to stop rust. They have been stored in my unheated garage since, awaiting the day I finally get the car together, no detectable rust. I live in Wales UK which has a very damp climate winter and summer. Zinc primer works for me. Adrian TR4A CT64306 O Wales UK. On 5 January 2013 23:18, Wbeech wrote: > Go to your local automotive paint store and get a quart of 'Etch > Primer", this will protect it until you are ready. Then you can sand > it, prime it, paint it when you are ready. I like the Nason brand but there are others. > > Bill > > Bill Beecher > '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby" > '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab) > www.triumphowners.com/1566 > '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" > "If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow" > M.Andretti > > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Malcolm > Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2013 11:16 AM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] Storing sheet metal (fenders) > > Hi List, > > I've been lurking for a while now - some of you may remember me from > the late '90s. Life has interrupted but I still have my TR4. > > I now also have the opportunity to buy a pair of rear fenders. > However, they would have to be stored in my (unheated) workshop or the > attic of our house, for a few months to a year, while I figure out how > to get the TR4 into the workshop for a proper restoration. > > What do people recommend for treating the sheet metal for storage? > Oil, grease, waxed paper, really big ziploc bags? > > Thanks in advance! > > -Malcolm > '62 TR4 (CT10339L) > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dixie4.wales at virgin.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From dave1massey at cs.com Sun Jan 6 08:24:22 2013 From: dave1massey at cs.com (Dave Massey) Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2013 10:24:22 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Storing sheet metal (fenders) In-Reply-To: <000101cdec07$31988de0$94c9a9a0$@uprichard.net> References: <790899568D944ADA970128A767850F4C@bboffice> <000101cdec07$31988de0$94c9a9a0$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <8CFBA3909ADF82F-1218-15310@webmail-m088.sysops.aol.com> Hah! That's nothing! In 1990 I bought a used engine to run in the TR6 whilst I rebuilt its original engine. That used engine is still in there. Some day I'll get a round tuit. Iechyd da ! Dave -----Original Message----- From: Andrew Uprichard Ten years ago? We'll put you down as a type B......................... :-) Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net I bare metaled my front wings (fenders) by sandblasting 10 years ago. Then I sprayed them immediately with a high concentrate zinc primer the kind they use on ocean based oil rigs to stop rust. They have been stored in my unheated garage since, awaiting the day I finally get the car together, no detectable rust. I live in Wales UK which has a very damp climate winter and summer. Zinc primer works for me. Adrian TR4A CT64306 O Wales UK. From keithstewart at execulink.com Sun Jan 6 09:19:35 2013 From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart) Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2013 11:19:35 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 Over Rider Support Tubes In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <89D95B62-00F4-4B60-A32A-E178C3108E7C@execulink.com> I have a 1962 TR4 (CT6716LO). I bought the car in 1966. It has bumper over rider support tubes. I just purchased another fully restored TR4 (originally from California). It does not have the support tubes. When I discussed this with the owners of the business where I purchased the car, they advised me that none of the TR4s that have ever passed through their hands have ever had the support tubes. Most of their cars have come from California. When I look at TR4 pictures on the various owner, club, and registry sites, the photos often do not reveal the presence or absence of the support tubes because either the over riders block the view or the colour/reflection in the area of the over rider make it unclear. Of those pictures where it is clear, the majority do not have the support tubes but many do. Do any of you original owners have information on whether these were included or if there was a cut off date for supplying them? Clearly they were intended as there are holes through the grille for them and a welded nut on the over rider for attachment but were they perhaps dropped to save a few dollars? Maybe John has a "factory anecdote" about them. TIA for your input Keith R. Stewart London, Ontario E-Mail: keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sun Jan 6 09:39:14 2013 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2013 11:39:14 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 Over Rider Support Tubes In-Reply-To: <89D95B62-00F4-4B60-A32A-E178C3108E7C@execulink.com> References: <89D95B62-00F4-4B60-A32A-E178C3108E7C@execulink.com> Message-ID: <50E9A8B2.8060609@adelphia.net> Keith, My matching numbers 63 came with the tubes when I picked it up over 8 years ago. Maybe some owners removed them? Not sure why. Maybe accident damage? You are correct about the welded nut. Why have the nut if it wasn't going to be used? I am not sure about the 4A, since their over-riders are different. Maybe that is what the dealer was referring to? I looked in the parts manual and the part numbers are: 611971 and 611970 Listed as Tube, front overider to front wheel arch. Bob On 01/06/2013 11:19 AM, Keith Stewart wrote: > I have a 1962 TR4 (CT6716LO). I bought the car in 1966. It has bumper over > rider support tubes. I just purchased another fully restored TR4 (originally > from California). It does not have the support tubes. > > When I discussed this with the owners of the business where I purchased the > car, they advised me that none of the TR4s that have ever passed through their > hands have ever had the support tubes. Most of their cars have come from > California. > > When I look at TR4 pictures on the various owner, club, and registry sites, > the photos often do not reveal the presence or absence of the support tubes > because either the over riders block the view or the colour/reflection in the > area of the over rider make it unclear. Of those pictures where it is clear, > the majority do not have the support tubes but many do. > > Do any of you original owners have information on whether these were included > or if there was a cut off date for supplying them? Clearly they were intended > as there are holes through the grille for them and a welded nut on the over > rider for attachment but were they perhaps dropped to save a few dollars? > Maybe John has a "factory anecdote" about them. TIA for your input > > > Keith R. Stewart > London, Ontario > E-Mail: keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Sun Jan 6 09:45:44 2013 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2013 09:45:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 Over Rider Support Tubes In-Reply-To: <89D95B62-00F4-4B60-A32A-E178C3108E7C@execulink.com> References: <89D95B62-00F4-4B60-A32A-E178C3108E7C@execulink.com> Message-ID: Keith -- My late '64 TR4 is quite original and has the supports. That car was despatched to California then on to Hawaii. Since they are black (not chrome as on the TR3) they may be hard to see in some B&W photos. I think it unlikely that any TR4s were produced intentionally omitting these. Geo On Sun, Jan 6, 2013 at 9:19 AM, Keith Stewart wrote: > I have a 1962 TR4 (CT6716LO). I bought the car in 1966. It has bumper over > rider support tubes. I just purchased another fully restored TR4 > (originally > from California). It does not have the support tubes. From keithstewart at execulink.com Sun Jan 6 10:02:34 2013 From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart) Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2013 12:02:34 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 Over Rider Support Tubes In-Reply-To: <50E9A8B2.8060609@adelphia.net> References: <89D95B62-00F4-4B60-A32A-E178C3108E7C@execulink.com> <50E9A8B2.8060609@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <5A9195AE-2661-4C31-9CC5-4240CB9A4A98@execulink.com> True, that anything other than minor front end damage would likely break or crumple the support tube. I have them on CT6716LO, I have seen them in the SPC, TRF and Moss both list them, and I have seen them in other pictures. So, I do not have much doubt they exist. My main questions are to see if there are original owners whose cars did not come with them or if there was a point at which they were discontinued - or even if was an item that was sometimes left off a new vehicle at the factory. Thanks for your feedback. Keith R. Stewart 75 Camden Road London, Ontario N5X 2K2 Home: (519) 660-1916 E-Mail: keithstewart at execulink.com On 2013-01-06, at 11:39 AM, Bob Labuz wrote: > Keith, > > My matching numbers 63 came with the tubes when I picked it up over 8 years ago. Maybe some owners removed them? Not sure why. Maybe accident damage? > > You are correct about the welded nut. Why have the nut if it wasn't going to be used? > I am not sure about the 4A, since their over-riders are different. Maybe that is what the dealer was referring to? > > I looked in the parts manual and the part numbers are: > > 611971 and 611970 Listed as Tube, front overider to front wheel arch. > > Bob > > On 01/06/2013 11:19 AM, Keith Stewart wrote: >> I have a 1962 TR4 (CT6716LO). I bought the car in 1966. It has bumper over >> rider support tubes. I just purchased another fully restored TR4 (originally >> from California). It does not have the support tubes. >> >> When I discussed this with the owners of the business where I purchased the >> car, they advised me that none of the TR4s that have ever passed through their >> hands have ever had the support tubes. Most of their cars have come from >> California. >> >> When I look at TR4 pictures on the various owner, club, and registry sites, >> the photos often do not reveal the presence or absence of the support tubes >> because either the over riders block the view or the colour/reflection in the >> area of the over rider make it unclear. Of those pictures where it is clear, >> the majority do not have the support tubes but many do. >> >> Do any of you original owners have information on whether these were included >> or if there was a cut off date for supplying them? Clearly they were intended >> as there are holes through the grille for them and a welded nut on the over >> rider for attachment but were they perhaps dropped to save a few dollars? >> Maybe John has a "factory anecdote" about them. TIA for your input >> >> >> Keith R. Stewart >> London, Ontario >> E-Mail: keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom From keithstewart at execulink.com Sun Jan 6 10:10:30 2013 From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart) Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2013 12:10:30 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 Over Rider Support Tubes In-Reply-To: References: <89D95B62-00F4-4B60-A32A-E178C3108E7C@execulink.com> Message-ID: So that is two others, besides myself with the support tubes. If I understand correctly, George says his are black (from the factory). What about Bob's? Mine are body colour (signal red) and I do not remember having them painted - but, it has been 46 1/2 years. :-) Maybe they were black and on the repaint many years ago perhaps they were removed and repainted. If they were all black - which makes sense for a part that is attached after the body was painted at the factory, what about the supports from the bracket on the inner wheel arch to the top of the valance? One might expect those to be black as well and mine are also body colour. Keith R. Stewart 75 Camden Road London, Ontario N5X 2K2 Home: (519) 660-1916 E-Mail: keithstewart at execulink.com On 2013-01-06, at 11:45 AM, Geo Hahn wrote: > Keith -- > > My late '64 TR4 is quite original and has the supports. That car was despatched to California then on to Hawaii. > > Since they are black (not chrome as on the TR3) they may be hard to see in some B&W photos. > > I think it unlikely that any TR4s were produced intentionally omitting these. > > Geo > > On Sun, Jan 6, 2013 at 9:19 AM, Keith Stewart wrote: > I have a 1962 TR4 (CT6716LO). I bought the car in 1966. It has bumper over > rider support tubes. I just purchased another fully restored TR4 (originally > from California). It does not have the support tubes. From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Sun Jan 6 10:19:30 2013 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2013 10:19:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 Over Rider Support Tubes In-Reply-To: References: <89D95B62-00F4-4B60-A32A-E178C3108E7C@execulink.com> Message-ID: On Sun, Jan 6, 2013 at 10:10 AM, Keith Stewart wrote: > ... what about the supports from the bracket on the inner wheel arch to > the top of the valance? One might expect those to be black as well and mine > are also body colour... > Those are body color on mine (including the bolt heads). The car has its original paint. Looks like those supports were bolted in place prior to the body being painted, then the front bolt was undone to fit the tab on the grille and rebolted. Geo From JGILLIS at tcd.ie Sun Jan 6 10:25:54 2013 From: JGILLIS at tcd.ie (John Gillis) Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2013 17:25:54 +0000 Subject: [TR] Hardtop drip channels Message-ID: Does anybody know a source of the two drip channels for the TR2/3 hardtop, either re manufacture or used. I had a very bad day yesterday when I decided the best way to remove the paint the DPO had applied to them was using an alkaline stripper solution as I was afraid of scratching the surface using mechanical methods. This etched DEEP into the aluminum rendering them useless. DAMM! Regards John John Gillis Senior Conservator From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sun Jan 6 11:35:54 2013 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2013 13:35:54 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 Over Rider Support Tubes In-Reply-To: References: <89D95B62-00F4-4B60-A32A-E178C3108E7C@execulink.com> Message-ID: <50E9C40A.7030208@adelphia.net> Keith, The ones that came with my 63 were painted silver. So I cleaned them up and repainted them silver. My 63 is SPA white. Bob On 01/06/2013 12:10 PM, Keith Stewart wrote: > So that is two others, besides myself with the support tubes. If I understand > correctly, George says his are black (from the factory). What about Bob's? > Mine are body colour (signal red) and I do not remember having them painted - > but, it has been 46 1/2 years. > :-) > Maybe they were black and on the repaint many years ago perhaps they were > removed and repainted. If they were all black - which makes sense for a part > that is attached after the body was painted at the factory, what about the > supports from the bracket on the inner wheel arch to the top of the valance? > One might expect those to be black as well and mine are also body colour. > > Keith R. Stewart > 75 Camden Road > London, Ontario > N5X 2K2 > Home: (519) 660-1916 > E-Mail: keithstewart at execulink.com > > > > > > On 2013-01-06, at 11:45 AM, Geo Hahn wrote: > >> Keith -- >> >> My late '64 TR4 is quite original and has the supports. That car was > despatched to California then on to Hawaii. >> Since they are black (not chrome as on the TR3) they may be hard to see in > some B&W photos. >> I think it unlikely that any TR4s were produced intentionally omitting > these. >> Geo >> >> On Sun, Jan 6, 2013 at 9:19 AM, Keith Stewart > wrote: >> I have a 1962 TR4 (CT6716LO). I bought the car in 1966. It has bumper over >> rider support tubes. I just purchased another fully restored TR4 > (originally >> from California). It does not have the support tubes. From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Sun Jan 6 12:43:07 2013 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2013 11:43:07 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Hardtop drip channels Message-ID: <1357501387.31274.YahooMailNeo@web180902.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Hi John, If you find a source, be sure to post it to the list. I have an original hardtop. My drip rails are still usable, but the corners of the drip rails seem to have dissolved due to some sort of cathodic reaction. I have considered trying to make a tool (mandrel) and re-manufacture them myself out of aluminum or stainless steel. Probably won't be happening anytime soon though. -Bill in Tehachapi Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2013 17:25:54 +0000 From: John Gillis To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" Subject: [TR] Hardtop drip channels Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Does anybody know a source of the two drip channels for the TR2/3 hardtop, either re manufacture or used. I had a very bad day yesterday when I decided the best way to remove the paint the DPO had applied to them was using an alkaline stripper solution as I was afraid of scratching the surface using mechanical methods. This etched DEEP into the aluminum rendering them useless. DAMM! Regards John John Gillis Senior Conservator From dixie4.wales at virgin.net Sun Jan 6 13:20:45 2013 From: dixie4.wales at virgin.net (ADRIAN DIX-DYER) Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2013 20:20:45 +0000 Subject: [TR] Storing sheet metal (fenders) In-Reply-To: <000101cdec07$31988de0$94c9a9a0$@uprichard.net> References: <790899568D944ADA970128A767850F4C@bboffice> <000101cdec07$31988de0$94c9a9a0$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: Type B.....mmm. Selling my business and cancer got in the way of the restoration started ten years ago. All systems go now. Adrian TR4A CT64306 O On 6 January 2013 12:13, Andrew Uprichard wrote: > Ten years ago? We'll put you down as a type B......................... > :-) > > Andrew Uprichard > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of ADRIAN DIX-DYER > Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2013 5:56 AM > To: Wbeech > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] Storing sheet metal (fenders) > > I bare metaled my front wings (fenders) by sandblasting 10 years ago. Then > I > sprayed them immediately with a high concentrate zinc primer the kind they > use on ocean based oil rigs to stop rust. > They have been stored in my unheated garage since, awaiting the day I > finally get the car together, no detectable rust. > I live in Wales UK which has a very damp climate winter and summer. > Zinc primer works for me. > Adrian TR4A CT64306 O > Wales UK. > > On 5 January 2013 23:18, Wbeech wrote: > > > Go to your local automotive paint store and get a quart of 'Etch > > Primer", this will protect it until you are ready. Then you can sand > > it, prime it, paint it when you are ready. I like the Nason brand but > there are others. > > > > Bill > > > > Bill Beecher > > '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby" > > '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab) > > www.triumphowners.com/1566 > > '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" > > "If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too > slow" > > M.Andretti > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Malcolm > > Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2013 11:16 AM > > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > > Subject: [TR] Storing sheet metal (fenders) > > > > Hi List, > > > > I've been lurking for a while now - some of you may remember me from > > the late '90s. Life has interrupted but I still have my TR4. > > > > I now also have the opportunity to buy a pair of rear fenders. > > However, they would have to be stored in my (unheated) workshop or the > > attic of our house, for a few months to a year, while I figure out how > > to get the TR4 into the workshop for a proper restoration. > > > > What do people recommend for treating the sheet metal for storage? > > Oil, grease, waxed paper, really big ziploc bags? > > > > Thanks in advance! > > > > -Malcolm > > '62 TR4 (CT10339L) > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dixie4.wales at virgin.net > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From cliff_hansen at earthlink.net Sun Jan 6 13:22:59 2013 From: cliff_hansen at earthlink.net (Cliff Hansen) Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2013 13:22:59 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 Over Rider Support Tubes In-Reply-To: <50E9C40A.7030208@adelphia.net> References: <89D95B62-00F4-4B60-A32A-E178C3108E7C@execulink.com> <50E9C40A.7030208@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <3EE8073F983B40A2AEFA0907A89A2A85@Shemp> I recently stripped the stay rods (wheel arch to valance) on my TR4A and found original body color. In these case of these two, they were not painted well - I sanded several paint drips from off the bottom edge. Its likely that they were painted on the car and with not much paint along the bottom except for the runs. Cliff -----Original Message----- From: Bob Labuz Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2013 11:35 AM To: Keith Stewart Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Over Rider Support Tubes Keith, The ones that came with my 63 were painted silver. So I cleaned them up and repainted them silver. My 63 is SPA white. Bob On 01/06/2013 12:10 PM, Keith Stewart wrote: > So that is two others, besides myself with the support tubes. If I > understand > correctly, George says his are black (from the factory). What about Bob's? > Mine are body colour (signal red) and I do not remember having them > painted - > but, it has been 46 1/2 years. > :-) > Maybe they were black and on the repaint many years ago perhaps they were > removed and repainted. If they were all black - which makes sense for a > part > that is attached after the body was painted at the factory, what about the > supports from the bracket on the inner wheel arch to the top of the > valance? > One might expect those to be black as well and mine are also body colour. > > Keith R. Stewart > 75 Camden Road > London, Ontario > N5X 2K2 > Home: (519) 660-1916 > E-Mail: keithstewart at execulink.com > > > > > > On 2013-01-06, at 11:45 AM, Geo Hahn wrote: > >> Keith -- >> >> My late '64 TR4 is quite original and has the supports. That car was > despatched to California then on to Hawaii. >> Since they are black (not chrome as on the TR3) they may be hard to see >> in > some B&W photos. >> I think it unlikely that any TR4s were produced intentionally omitting > these. >> Geo >> >> On Sun, Jan 6, 2013 at 9:19 AM, Keith Stewart >> > wrote: >> I have a 1962 TR4 (CT6716LO). I bought the car in 1966. It has bumper >> over >> rider support tubes. I just purchased another fully restored TR4 > (originally >> from California). It does not have the support tubes. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cliff_hansen at earthlink.net From jdemuth at ties2.net Sun Jan 6 14:28:50 2013 From: jdemuth at ties2.net (Joe DeMuth) Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2013 15:28:50 -0600 Subject: [TR] Mounting TR3A tub on frame Message-ID: <8AD03D38-9C9C-4ED5-8FB6-6BA463AE9F4A@ties2.net> From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk Sun Jan 6 15:51:17 2013 From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2013 22:51:17 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] TR4 Over Rider Support Tubes In-Reply-To: <3EE8073F983B40A2AEFA0907A89A2A85@Shemp> References: <89D95B62-00F4-4B60-A32A-E178C3108E7C@execulink.com> <50E9C40A.7030208@adelphia.net> <3EE8073F983B40A2AEFA0907A89A2A85@Shemp> Message-ID: <1357512677.74169.YahooMailNeo@web171904.mail.ir2.yahoo.com> Cliff Hansen wrote: Its likely that they were painted on the car and with not much paint along the bottom except for the runs. Hey, what do you expect for two thousand odd dollars on a Triumph? Surely not a proper job? Jonmac From spook01 at comcast.net Sun Jan 6 16:29:21 2013 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2013 17:29:21 -0600 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?TR4_Over_Rider_Support_Tubes?= Message-ID: I have a tra TR4 judging guidelines passed on to me by one of the authors/major contributors indicating those braces were chassis black. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "John Macartney" To: "Cliff Hansen" , "Bob" , <>>, "Keith Stewart" Cc: "triumphs at autox.team.net" Subject: [TR] TR4 Over Rider Support Tubes Date: Sun, Jan 6, 2013 16:51 Cliff Hansen wrote: Its likely that they were painted on the car and with not much paint along the bottom except for the runs. Hey, what do you expect for two thousand odd dollars on a Triumph? Surely not a proper job? Jonmac ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Sun Jan 6 16:34:58 2013 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2013 18:34:58 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 Over Rider Support Tubes In-Reply-To: <20130106233502.70C5242841@autox.team.net> References: <20130106233502.70C5242841@autox.team.net> Message-ID: That may be correct for a TR4 but for a 4A they are body color. Owned my 66 since 69. -----Original Message----- From: spook01 at comcast.net Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2013 6:29 PM Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Over Rider Support Tubes I have a tra TR4 judging guidelines passed on to me by one of the authors/major contributors indicating those braces were chassis black. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "John Macartney" To: "Cliff Hansen" , "Bob" , <>>, "Keith Stewart" Cc: "triumphs at autox.team.net" Subject: [TR] TR4 Over Rider Support Tubes Date: Sun, Jan 6, 2013 16:51 Cliff Hansen wrote: Its likely that they were painted on the car and with not much paint along the bottom except for the runs. Hey, what do you expect for two thousand odd dollars on a Triumph? Surely not a proper job? Jonmac ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jerryvv at roadrunner.com From andygraybeal at earthlink.net Sun Jan 6 17:56:24 2013 From: andygraybeal at earthlink.net (Andy Graybeal) Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2013 16:56:24 -0800 Subject: [TR] Electronic flasher Message-ID: Hi, all I just converted my TR4 signal and stoplights to LED bulbs purchased from Moss Motors. They work beautifully but when the turn signal stalk is in the off position, the flasher unit continues to click. The only light that is affected is the indicator light in the dash. I did not replace the front parking lights. Any suggestions? From pbrandsema at triad.rr.com Sun Jan 6 18:03:53 2013 From: pbrandsema at triad.rr.com (pbrandsema at triad.rr.com) Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2013 1:03:53 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR4 Bonnet Alignment Message-ID: <20130107010354.OHK4P.79650.root@hrndva-web04-z02> I've had my TR4 on the road now for about 10 years, and one of the things that I've always wanted to fix is the alignment of the bonnet. I will say that with a friends help, I was the last person to install it. I thought we had done the best job we could at the time, but ended up with large differences between the gaps between the sides. Also, I have gaps on each side at the front end. It almost seems as if the wings should bend to match the contour of the bonnet. I tried to made adjustments using the slotted holes in the hinges, but there isn't really any movement side to side. Would it help to enlarge the slotted holes? I'm looking for advice on how to properly adjust the inner wings which are welded to the tub. I already have the bonnet off the car, and am planning on removing the wings next. Should I just use the dimensional width of the bonnet, adding the appropriate amount of distance for the gaps? What's the best way to bend the mounting edge for the wings? Thanks Paul 61 TR4 From glemon at neb.rr.com Sun Jan 6 18:35:55 2013 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2013 19:35:55 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR4 Bonnet Alignment In-Reply-To: <20130107010354.OHK4P.79650.root@hrndva-web04-z02> References: <20130107010354.OHK4P.79650.root@hrndva-web04-z02> Message-ID: <6F6D2F2CAC2144BF865F02B57D875BC2@livingroompc> Paul, are you talking about how the last couple inches of the front end of the bonnet seem to kind of "curl in" in addition to the downward curve to follow the line of the wings? If so I had that feature on my old TR4A and current TR250. If you want to bend the wing in to follow the line that is beyond my skill set, as you have creases and compound curves involved. It might be easier to see if you can finesse the corners of the bonnet out a little. Greg Lemon -------------------------------------------------- From: Sent: Sunday, January 6, 2013 7:03 PM To: Subject: [TR] TR4 Bonnet Alignment > I've had my TR4 on the road now for about 10 years, and one of the things > that I've always wanted to fix is the alignment of the bonnet. I will say > that with a friends help, I was the last person to install it. I thought > we had done the best job we could at the time, but ended up with large > differences between the gaps between the sides. Also, I have gaps on each > side at the front end. It almost seems as if the wings should bend to > match the contour of the bonnet. I tried to made adjustments using the > slotted holes in the hinges, but there isn't really any movement side to > side. Would it help to enlarge the slotted holes? > > I'm looking for advice on how to properly adjust the inner wings which are > welded to the tub. I already have the bonnet off the car, and am planning > on removing the wings next. Should I just use the dimensional width of the > bonnet, adding the appropriate amount of distance for the gaps? What's > the best way to bend the mounting edge for the wings? > > Thanks > Paul > 61 TR4 > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/glemon at neb.rr.com From jdemuth at ties2.net Sun Jan 6 21:03:37 2013 From: jdemuth at ties2.net (Joe DeMuth) Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2013 22:03:37 -0600 Subject: [TR] Mounting tub on frame TR3A Message-ID: From jholekamp at sbcglobal.net Mon Jan 7 06:12:13 2013 From: jholekamp at sbcglobal.net (Jay Holekamp) Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2013 05:12:13 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] TR4 Over Rider Support Tubes Message-ID: <1357564333.65508.YahooMailRC@web184402.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> The front (and rear) over-rider support bars on my very original '64 TR4 are black (car is Triumph Racing Green - no 25) and original. Built in Nov '64, dispatched to Germany where I bought it. The car has never had any collision damage. I doubt that a TR4 intentionally left the factory with out these support bars. brgds, Jay '64 Triumph TR4 since '67 From jdemuth at ties2.net Mon Jan 7 07:42:51 2013 From: jdemuth at ties2.net (Joe DeMuth) Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2013 08:42:51 -0600 Subject: [TR] Mounting TR3A Tub on Frame (Third Try-the message gets scrubbed) Message-ID: <035BA80F-624B-4B34-B551-5070BC53428D@ties2.net> I am in the process of securing the tub (newly painted) to the restored frame of a TR3A. In a trial fit I find that the stack of four rubber mounting pads on the outriggers that are recommended as a starting point for truing up the body leave the car floor pans well above the frame. My question is this, are the floor pans supposed to rest directly on the rubber strips atop the fram3, or is there supposed to be a gap. The former makes most sense to me, but in order to get that to happen, I think I would be down to 1 pad on at least one of the outriggers. Any From auprichard at uprichard.net Mon Jan 7 07:53:24 2013 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2013 09:53:24 -0500 Subject: [TR] Mounting TR3A Tub on Frame (Third Try-the message gets scrubbed) In-Reply-To: <035BA80F-624B-4B34-B551-5070BC53428D@ties2.net> References: <035BA80F-624B-4B34-B551-5070BC53428D@ties2.net> Message-ID: <001101cdece6$bf8eea60$3eacbf20$@uprichard.net> Joe: The tub is meant to rest on the PADS atop the outriggers, but in other areas (in the engine compartment, for example), there is a gap between the tub and the STRIPS. Regarding the pads on the outriggers, the number will be determined by how the gaps are when you install the doors and fenders - and so it involves a certain amount of trial and error in getting it just right. Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe DeMuth Sent: Monday, January 07, 2013 9:43 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Mounting TR3A Tub on Frame (Third Try-the message gets scrubbed) I am in the process of securing the tub (newly painted) to the restored frame of a TR3A. In a trial fit I find that the stack of four rubber mounting pads on the outriggers that are recommended as a starting point for truing up the body leave the car floor pans well above the frame. My question is this, are the floor pans supposed to rest directly on the rubber strips atop the fram3, or is there supposed to be a gap. The former makes most sense to me, but in order to get that to happen, I think I would be down to 1 pad on at least one of the outriggers. Any ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From elliottr at rmi.net Mon Jan 7 17:29:33 2013 From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott) Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2013 18:29:33 -0600 Subject: [TR] [Spits] Electronic Tach In-Reply-To: <1357553775.2934.YahooMailNeo@web171902.mail.ir2.yahoo.com> References: <50E9F737.2030806@rmi.net> <7019B85324FC492CA568857ACC2DF296@MainPC> <1357553775.2934.YahooMailNeo@web171902.mail.ir2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <50EB686D.2070202@rmi.net> Thanks Everyone! The consensus is that it is normal or at least not unusual, as I suspected. I haven't worried about it, because it always starts up rather soon. But I was curious if it was just mine. Thanks, Roger On 1/7/2013 4:16 AM, John Macartney wrote: > This condition is well-known on the eastern side of the pond and in > Standard-Triumph parlance of the day comes into the category of "an > i'erent (inherent) fault" I've encountered this condition on many > later Spitfires, including one that was under my care for some 18 > months. A firm knock on the instrument glass is all that's required to > make it work. One surely doesn't expect the rev counter to work well > for ever, does one? > Jonmac*From:* Grant Buss > ** > Hello > I have a '78 Spitfire and the tack has been the same way for as long > as I have had it (close to 20 years). > Now idea why. > Grant Buss From glemon at neb.rr.com Mon Jan 7 20:46:37 2013 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2013 21:46:37 -0600 Subject: [TR] [Spits] Electronic Tach In-Reply-To: <50EB686D.2070202@rmi.net> References: <50E9F737.2030806@rmi.net><7019B85324FC492CA568857ACC2DF296@MainPC><1357553775.2934.YahooMailNeo@web171902.mail.ir2.yahoo.com> <50EB686D.2070202@rmi.net> Message-ID: <03F14C3DC5E94570A8B77BB04D6185A3@livingroompc> I had a 79 MGB that did the exact same thing, needed a little tap to start, then always worked fine after that until the next start up, wouldn't be surprised if "rationalization" at BL had the same or similar parts in both cars at this time. Greg Lemon -------------------------------------------------- From: "Roger Elliott" Sent: Monday, January 7, 2013 6:29 PM To: "Spitfire list" ; "Triumph List" Subject: Re: [TR] [Spits] Electronic Tach > Thanks Everyone! > > The consensus is that it is normal or at least not unusual, as I > suspected. I haven't worried about it, because it always starts up > rather soon. But I was curious if it was just mine. > > Thanks, > Roger > > > On 1/7/2013 4:16 AM, John Macartney wrote: >> This condition is well-known on the eastern side of the pond and in >> Standard-Triumph parlance of the day comes into the category of "an >> i'erent (inherent) fault" I've encountered this condition on many >> later Spitfires, including one that was under my care for some 18 >> months. A firm knock on the instrument glass is all that's required to >> make it work. One surely doesn't expect the rev counter to work well >> for ever, does one? >> Jonmac*From:* Grant Buss >> ** >> Hello >> I have a '78 Spitfire and the tack has been the same way for as long >> as I have had it (close to 20 years). >> Now idea why. >> Grant Buss > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/glemon at neb.rr.com From darrellw360 at mac.com Mon Jan 7 20:55:31 2013 From: darrellw360 at mac.com (Darrell Walker) Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2013 19:55:31 -0800 Subject: [TR] [Spits] Electronic Tach In-Reply-To: <03F14C3DC5E94570A8B77BB04D6185A3@livingroompc> References: <50E9F737.2030806@rmi.net> <7019B85324FC492CA568857ACC2DF296@MainPC> <1357553775.2934.YahooMailNeo@web171902.mail.ir2.yahoo.com> <50EB686D.2070202@rmi.net> <03F14C3DC5E94570A8B77BB04D6185A3@livingroompc> Message-ID: I'm not sure if the tach is similar to the TR7/TR8, but if so, here is an explanation of the problem, and how to resolve it: http://www.team.net/TR8/tr8cca/wedgelab/other/tach/tach.htm However, I've cleaned mine a few times, and it is better for a week or so, then starts sticking again. -Darrell -- Darrell Walker 66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L 81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206 Vancouver, WA, USA From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Mon Jan 7 16:53:09 2013 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2013 18:53:09 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 Over Rider Support Tubes Message-ID: It may be that we are discussing different stay rods. For the TR4 I think the conversation is around the support rods that attach to the back of the over riders. My post referred to the stays that go from the top of the grill support to the wheel arch on either side. Wholly inside the engine compartment. I was answering that question only. Does a TR4 also have these same stay rods? JVV -----Original Message----- From: Jerry Van Vlack Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2013 6:34 PM To: spook01 at comcast.net Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Over Rider Support Tubes That may be correct for a TR4 but for a 4A they are body color. Owned my 66 since 69. -----Original Message----- From: spook01 at comcast.net Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2013 6:29 PM Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Over Rider Support Tubes I have a tra TR4 judging guidelines passed on to me by one of the authors/major contributors indicating those braces were chassis black. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "John Macartney" To: "Cliff Hansen" , "Bob" , <>>, "Keith Stewart" Cc: "triumphs at autox.team.net" Subject: [TR] TR4 Over Rider Support Tubes Date: Sun, Jan 6, 2013 16:51 Cliff Hansen wrote: Its likely that they were painted on the car and with not much paint along the bottom except for the runs. Hey, what do you expect for two thousand odd dollars on a Triumph? Surely not a proper job? Jonmac From keithstewart at execulink.com Tue Jan 8 09:31:33 2013 From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart) Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2013 11:31:33 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4A in Taylor Swift's Ex Vidwo In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <368AAA7D-761A-42F2-BFA2-4BC1A95AD0A2@execulink.com> The music may not be to your liking, but the red TR4A that is the start of the "Kiss You" video is pretty cool! http://www.thesun.co.uk/sol/homepage/showbiz/music/4732149/one-direction-topl ess-in-video-for-kiss-you.html Keith R. Stewart London, Ontario E-Mail: keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Tue Jan 8 11:31:15 2013 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2013 11:31:15 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 Over Rider Support Tubes In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On Mon, Jan 7, 2013 at 4:53 PM, Jerry Van Vlack wrote: > ...My post referred to the stays that go from the top of the grill support > to the wheel arch on either side. Wholly inside the engine compartment. I > was answering that question only. Does a TR4 also have these same stay rods > Yes, and the ones under the bonnet are body color on a TR4. So black for the ones to the bumper guards and body color for the ones from the inner wing to the top of the grille (on the TR4 at least). If you look at an original car you can get some idea of how it was assembled vis a vis the painting of parts. Geo From keithstewart at execulink.com Tue Jan 8 12:45:08 2013 From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart) Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2013 14:45:08 -0500 Subject: [TR] R4 Over Rider Support Tubes In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <30C7B7B4-6583-41C7-80B0-D370CC9C4B60@execulink.com> Thanks so much for all your input. It seems the consensus from those that were original owners, or those that were owners early enough in the life of the car that they know what was there from the factory, is that: * no one received a car that did not have the over rider support tubes (over rider to inner wheel arch) * the over rider support tubes were black (likely chassis black) * the stay rod supports (top of inner valance to inner wheel arch) were body colour Thanks for your feedback. You are a great resource. Keith R. Stewart London, Ontario E-Mail: keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom From yellowtr at adelphia.net Tue Jan 8 09:26:14 2013 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2013 11:26:14 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 Over Rider Support Tubes In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <50EC48A6.8090707@adelphia.net> Jerry, My 63 does. They are painted body color. Bob On 01/07/2013 06:53 PM, Jerry Van Vlack wrote: > It may be that we are discussing different stay rods. For the TR4 I > think the conversation is around the support rods that attach to the > back of the over riders. My post referred to the stays that go from > the top of the grill support to the wheel arch on either side. Wholly > inside the engine compartment. I was answering that question only. > Does a TR4 also have these same stay rods? > > JVV From agraham at execulink.com Tue Jan 8 18:52:49 2013 From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham) Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2013 20:52:49 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 seat rails. Message-ID: <50ECCD71.5000007@execulink.com> Hello List: Trying to sort out the miscellaneous pieces I have to cobble together the seat rails and adjusters for my '2. I'm assuming that the TR2 and 3. 3A seat rails are similar. Are the adjuster tracks "handed" - right or left? The parts that I have appear to fit only one way - on the right side of the seat pan. That would make the adjustment lever adjacent to the trans tunnel on the driver's seat and the passenger's seat has the lever next to the door. Both my seats have fixed backs and I think this is correct for the '2. Do I have the right adjuster tracks? Is the lever position correct? Thanks for any help with this one & Happy New Year to all. Angelo Graham From wbeech at flash.net Tue Jan 8 19:48:12 2013 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2013 20:48:12 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 seat rails. In-Reply-To: <50ECCD71.5000007@execulink.com> References: <50ECCD71.5000007@execulink.com> Message-ID: <2DF920EBF5314EFAA1D8F8493D723CF1@bboffice> Angelo, Yes they are handed. My adjusters are both at the outboard side under the seat on the TR3A. Moss catalog agrees with you in that both TR2 seats are 'fixed'. Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby" '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab) www.triumphowners.com/1566 '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" "If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow" M.Andretti -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Angelo Graham Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2013 7:53 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR2/3 seat rails. Hello List: Trying to sort out the miscellaneous pieces I have to cobble together the seat rails and adjusters for my '2. I'm assuming that the TR2 and 3. 3A seat rails are similar. Are the adjuster tracks "handed" - right or left? The parts that I have appear to fit only one way - on the right side of the seat pan. That would make the adjustment lever adjacent to the trans tunnel on the driver's seat and the passenger's seat has the lever next to the door. Both my seats have fixed backs and I think this is correct for the '2. Do I have the right adjuster tracks? Is the lever position correct? Thanks for any help with this one & Happy New Year to all. Angelo Graham ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From oldpine47 at frontiernet.net Wed Jan 9 09:53:32 2013 From: oldpine47 at frontiernet.net (oldpine47 at frontiernet.net) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2013 08:53:32 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] TR3A Stone Guards Message-ID: <1357750412.71641.YahooMailNeo@web164603.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> I received a set of stone guards from Big m and they do not look like the upper piece will fit over the fender. Has anyone else had this problem and is there a fix I am not aware of? Fred From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Wed Jan 9 10:05:52 2013 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2013 09:05:52 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] TR3A Stone Guards In-Reply-To: <1357750412.71641.YahooMailNeo@web164603.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <1357750412.71641.YahooMailNeo@web164603.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1357751152.7424.YahooMailNeo@web120006.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> i had to bend and file and hug and squeeze all 4 of mine to get a reasonable fit Frank From: "oldpine47 at frontiernet.net" To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" Sent: Wednesday, January 9, 2013 8:53 AM Subject: [TR] TR3A Stone Guards I received a set of stone guards from Big m and they do not look like the upper piece will fit over the fender. Has anyone else had this problem and is there a fix I am not aware of? Fred ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From wbeech at flash.net Wed Jan 9 10:34:15 2013 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2013 11:34:15 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3A Stone Guards In-Reply-To: <1357751152.7424.YahooMailNeo@web120006.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1357750412.71641.YahooMailNeo@web164603.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> <1357751152.7424.YahooMailNeo@web120006.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <85DE4AA81DDE4604AAA48C56F2882863@bboffice> Same experience here, mine came from TRF. It truly was a 'custom' fit. Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Fisher Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2013 11:06 AM To: oldpine47 at frontiernet.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Stone Guards i had to bend and file and hug and squeeze all 4 of mine to get a reasonable fit Frank From: "oldpine47 at frontiernet.net" To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" Sent: Wednesday, January 9, 2013 8:53 AM Subject: [TR] TR3A Stone Guards I received a set of stone guards from Big m and they do not look like the upper piece will fit over the fender. Has anyone else had this problem and is there a fix I am not aware of? Fred ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jan 9 12:26:14 2013 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2013 14:26:14 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A Stone Guards In-Reply-To: <85DE4AA81DDE4604AAA48C56F2882863@bboffice> Message-ID: <20130109192615.T83O9.184973.root@cdptpa-web19-z01> ---- Wbeech wrote: > Same experience here, mine came from TRF. It truly was a 'custom' fit. Ditto. My take is that they are supplied untrimmed, both to reduce costs and to allow custom fitting to your car. The metal is very soft and easy to shape, but there is a considerable amount of shaping required. Randall From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Wed Jan 9 18:34:04 2013 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2013 20:34:04 -0500 Subject: [TR] Roll bar padding source Message-ID: Looking for a high performing padding for the roll bar in my TR6 project. It's supposed to be for my wife - but I think it will likely go to my best buddy who's moving here from the UK this month. Would like to be economical - but want good stiff foam. Safety first. Any suggestions/sources? I've seen some foam at Jeggs and Summit and I'll go there if I don't get some better advice. Thanks in advance, Chris 54 TR2 63 TR4 69 TR6 (on life support - solid frame but really ugly) 73 TR6 (affectionately called "The Pig" due to all the DPO issues encountered thus far) 1/2 73 TR6 (back half - going soon) From john-marie at sbcglobal.net Wed Jan 9 19:20:29 2013 From: john-marie at sbcglobal.net (john-marie at sbcglobal.net) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2013 20:20:29 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR4A Message-ID: <3E682FE4-D4FD-41F3-99C7-DE8F448DA92A@sbcglobal.net> Hi all list members, My first post. I am about to begin a frame off restoration on a TR4A. Am looking for a restoration guide to help me along. I have found three doing an internet search. They are a little pricey, so I would like to invest in the best one. Any suggestions will be appreciated. TIA. John DeLuca From trglory at verizon.net Wed Jan 9 19:39:00 2013 From: trglory at verizon.net (Joseph Laurito) Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2013 21:39:00 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 windshield mounting Message-ID: <008701cdeedb$a60c12b0$f2243810$@net> I'm preparing the windshield prior to mounting and have a few questions for the group. The rubber seal that fits between the windshield frame and the scuttle is a fairly tight fit. Should it be glued to the frame and, if so, what adhesives are recommended. Is it a good idea to use some sort of caulking between the seal and the body of the car to insure water tightness? I see that the seal has a tendency to curl under the windshield frame. How do you keep it flat? My initial thoughts where to use a length of twine to pull it out while tightening the frame mounts, but that won't work if caulking is required. Thanks in advance. Joe From glemon at neb.rr.com Wed Jan 9 19:41:22 2013 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2013 20:41:22 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR4A In-Reply-To: <3E682FE4-D4FD-41F3-99C7-DE8F448DA92A@sbcglobal.net> References: <3E682FE4-D4FD-41F3-99C7-DE8F448DA92A@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <20145B2E004E4489BA1C56F43A9E8410@livingroompc> John, if you are doing a total restoration the cost of books shouldn't phase you too much, the Piggot originality guide is helpful, as is a Haynes Manual and a factory parts manual, if you don't want to buy a manual a Moss catalog is a decent substitute. If you search around on Ebay and don't mind a little grubby you can get a Haynes pretty cheap, a Moss catalog is free (google moss motors if you haven't discovered them yet) the Piggot book comes in several versions that cover the 4A, they were pretty pricey for a while, but I thought they come out with a new version and had become more reasonable, E-bay and Amazon are good sources for these and other books. Good Luck! Solid axle or IRS? Greg Lemon From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Wed Jan 9 19:43:15 2013 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2013 18:43:15 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] TR4A In-Reply-To: <3E682FE4-D4FD-41F3-99C7-DE8F448DA92A@sbcglobal.net> References: <3E682FE4-D4FD-41F3-99C7-DE8F448DA92A@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <1357785795.2404.YahooMailNeo@web120005.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> John id suggest you forget the books and instead take class's at your local community college. they usually will let you bring parts in and work on them. you will be the oldest guy in class and maybe even older than the teacher. but that just makes for more fun. Frank ________________________________ From: "john-marie at sbcglobal.net" To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" Sent: Wednesday, January 9, 2013 6:20 PM Subject: [TR] TR4A Hi all list members, My first post. I am about to begin a frame off restoration on a TR4A. Am looking for a restoration guide to help me along. I have found three doing an internet search. They are a little pricey, so I would like to invest in the best one. Any suggestions will be appreciated. TIA. John DeLuca ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From adcronin at mi.rr.com Wed Jan 9 19:56:32 2013 From: adcronin at mi.rr.com (Dan Cronin) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2013 21:56:32 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4A In-Reply-To: <3E682FE4-D4FD-41F3-99C7-DE8F448DA92A@sbcglobal.net> References: <3E682FE4-D4FD-41F3-99C7-DE8F448DA92A@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: I highly recommend "How to Restore Triumph TR4 & 4A " by Roger Williams with a forward by Bill Piggott. From the Enthusiast's Restoration Manuals by Veloce. 192 pages and a bit pricy, but certainly well worth the $$$ - around $60.00 US but available used for less. You will refer to this often during your restoration and lots if its your first one.... Dan Cronin adcronin at mi.rr.com On Jan 9, 2013, at 9:20 PM, john-marie at sbcglobal.net wrote: > Hi all list members, > > My first post. I am about to begin a frame off restoration on a TR4A. Am > looking for a restoration guide to help me along. I have found three doing an > internet search. They are a little pricey, so I would like to invest in the > best one. Any suggestions will be appreciated. TIA. > > John DeLuca > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/adcronin at mi.rr.com From ebuzzmiller at comcast.net Wed Jan 9 20:15:52 2013 From: ebuzzmiller at comcast.net (Eric Miller) Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2013 19:15:52 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR4A In-Reply-To: <3E682FE4-D4FD-41F3-99C7-DE8F448DA92A@sbcglobal.net> References: <3E682FE4-D4FD-41F3-99C7-DE8F448DA92A@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <50EE3268.7080805@comcast.net> When I did my 4A, I found that I used the Haynes manual initially, but ended up going to the Triumph "Repair Operation Manual" published by BL Cars Limited for specifics. It covers TR4 - TR6. It has plenty of assembly diagrams and all the dimension, torque, assembly, and fluif specs you could want. (It's my greasiest book). -Eric On 1/9/2013 6:20 PM, john-marie at sbcglobal.net wrote: > Hi all list members, > > My first post. I am about to begin a frame off restoration on a TR4A. Am > looking for a restoration guide to help me along. I have found three doing an > internet search. They are a little pricey, so I would like to invest in the > best one. Any suggestions will be appreciated. TIA. > > John DeLuca > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ebuzzmiller at comcast.net From jagmog at hotmail.com Wed Jan 9 20:36:59 2013 From: jagmog at hotmail.com (Jonas Payne) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2013 19:36:59 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR4A In-Reply-To: <50EE3268.7080805@comcast.net> References: <3E682FE4-D4FD-41F3-99C7-DE8F448DA92A@sbcglobal.net> <50EE3268.7080805@comcast.net> Message-ID: Eric, The internet and the people on it are your best manual............ I've done a 3 Morgans - there is no manual (Refer to TR and Jag Manuals respectively). Thank god for the now defunct "emog" I have 3 TR/Standard manuals (TR3, TR4, TR6) they were all I ever needed for TR's. (A couple TR3's, Morgans and a TR6). They are quite good, and thanks to autox.team.net. I have the Austin manual for the AH3000 - its all I ever needed for 2 AH3000 Restorations. Thank god for autox.team.net I have the Haynes manual for MGB's, it is terrible ("Reverse of Disassembly") - but MGB's are simple enough to start with. I have an official Jag shop manual for my XK-150 - beyond awful, indescribably bad, words can do no justice for how useless it is, my son's "Harry Potter spellbooks" are more useful............(part of the "momentary failure to proceed" literary school). Thank god for jaglovers.com. Get yourself the TR4 shop manual (available at moss, and one of the greasiest books in my shop) You'll find that most helpful thing out there beyond the manual is access to the internet and 100's of enthusiasts who have "been there, done that" and are eager to help. Jonas Payne PBR Consulting 702-882-6711 From guy at genfiniti.com Wed Jan 9 20:53:05 2013 From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2013 21:53:05 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR4A In-Reply-To: <3E682FE4-D4FD-41F3-99C7-DE8F448DA92A@sbcglobal.net> References: <3E682FE4-D4FD-41F3-99C7-DE8F448DA92A@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <7148DA62-19FD-405C-B2FA-1DC38DA70FE2@genfiniti.com> John, First, I admire your bravery and spirit. A frame-off restoration of any vintage car is a daunting task, and like marriage, is not to be entered into lightly. I completed a frame-off restoration of a 1965 TR4A from roughly 2004 - 2011. The car is now a pleasure to drive, and it even won first place for Concours Modified at the VTR South Central Region convention for 2012. I did not lay a hand on the car for roughly one year; all I did was study. I used the Roger Williams book as my primary guide, as well as priceless advice from the folks on this list. After a year of studying, I decided I could in fact be successful in taking on the project. So, I recommend you purchase the Williams book, get the electronic version of the Bentley manual, get the catalogs, and study the vehicle very thoroughly. If you still decide to move forward with the project, and the commitment (time, money and relationships) it entails, then turn a wrench. You may think money is a precious commodity now, but my experience says that time is far more precious. The last thing you want is a half-finsihed project that you are begging someone to take off your hands. Like Jesus said, no one wants a half-finished tower they cannot complete. Make sure you are counting the cost, and that you are committed to taking on those costs. While I was working on my TR4A, I managed to document a lot of my work at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph. I maintained this site as a diary of sorts, to help others along the way. I would be happy to follow your progress, and offer support and advice. But, like I eluded to before, the folks on this mailing list were my biggest helpers and cheerleaders. On Jan 9, 2013, at 8:20 PM, john-marie at sbcglobal.net wrote: > Hi all list members, > > My first post. I am about to begin a frame off restoration on a TR4A. Am > looking for a restoration guide to help me along. I have found three doing an > internet search. They are a little pricey, so I would like to invest in the > best one. Any suggestions will be appreciated. TIA. > > John DeLuca > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/guy at genfiniti.com Cheers, Guy D. Huggins 1965 Triumph TR4A CTC 63569LO Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph From wbeech at flash.net Wed Jan 9 21:32:32 2013 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2013 22:32:32 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR4A In-Reply-To: <7148DA62-19FD-405C-B2FA-1DC38DA70FE2@genfiniti.com> References: <3E682FE4-D4FD-41F3-99C7-DE8F448DA92A@sbcglobal.net> <7148DA62-19FD-405C-B2FA-1DC38DA70FE2@genfiniti.com> Message-ID: John, Where are you located? There is bound to be other TR enthusiasts nearby, a Triumph or British club. Not sure I can add to any of the advice already offered, I have the books, the Bentley CD and membership on this list, the Moss catalog is very helpful (the Moss UK catalog is better) and Dave at TRF is an extremely patient fountain of knowledge on all things Triumph. They got me through my first frame-off just six years ago, on my second now. But there is no replacement for a fellow owner to stop in and commiserate from time to time, or help you with a four-hand job, misery loves company as they say. Keep us up to date on how your doing, Bill Bill Beecher www.bcbco.org '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby" '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab) www.triumphowners.com/1566 '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" "If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow" M.Andretti ----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of G.D. Huggins Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2013 9:53 PM To: john-marie at sbcglobal.net Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A John, First, I admire your bravery and spirit. A frame-off restoration of any vintage car is a daunting task, and like marriage, is not to be entered into lightly. I completed a frame-off restoration of a 1965 TR4A from roughly 2004 - 2011. The car is now a pleasure to drive, and it even won first place for Concours Modified at the VTR South Central Region convention for 2012. I did not lay a hand on the car for roughly one year; all I did was study. I used the Roger Williams book as my primary guide, as well as priceless advice from the folks on this list. After a year of studying, I decided I could in fact be successful in taking on the project. So, I recommend you purchase the Williams book, get the electronic version of the Bentley manual, get the catalogs, and study the vehicle very thoroughly. If you still decide to move forward with the project, and the commitment (time, money and relationships) it entails, then turn a wrench. You may think money is a precious commodity now, but my experience says that time is far more precious. The last thing you want is a half-finsihed project that you are begging someone to take off your hands. Like Jesus said, no one wants a half-finished tower they cannot complete. Make sure you are counting the cost, and that you are committed to taking on those costs. While I was working on my TR4A, I managed to document a lot of my work at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph. I maintained this site as a diary of sorts, to help others along the way. I would be happy to follow your progress, and offer support and advice. But, like I eluded to before, the folks on this mailing list were my biggest helpers and cheerleaders. On Jan 9, 2013, at 8:20 PM, john-marie at sbcglobal.net wrote: > Hi all list members, > > My first post. I am about to begin a frame off restoration on a TR4A. > Am looking for a restoration guide to help me along. I have found > three doing an > internet search. They are a little pricey, so I would like to invest > in the > best one. Any suggestions will be appreciated. TIA. > > John DeLuca > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/guy at genfiniti.com Cheers, Guy D. Huggins 1965 Triumph TR4A CTC 63569LO Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From triosan at gmail.com Wed Jan 9 22:06:06 2013 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2013 21:06:06 -0800 Subject: [TR] Roll bar padding source In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Do you want padding to soften the roll bar when you lean on it, or do you want padding that would actually absorb a hit in an accident? The former is foam, the latter racing rollbar padding - see https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=ROLLPAD On Wed, Jan 9, 2013 at 5:34 PM, Chris Simo wrote: > Looking for a high performing padding for the roll bar in my TR6 project. > It's supposed to be for my wife - but I think it will likely go to my best > buddy who's moving here from the UK this month. > > Would like to be economical - but want good stiff foam. Safety first. > > Any suggestions/sources? I've seen some foam at Jeggs and Summit and I'll > go there if I don't get some better advice. > > Thanks in advance, Chris > > 54 TR2 > 63 TR4 > 69 TR6 (on life support - solid frame but really ugly) > 73 TR6 (affectionately called "The Pig" due to all the DPO issues > encountered thus far) > 1/2 73 TR6 (back half - going soon) > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triosan at gmail.com From gpr at key-men.com Thu Jan 10 02:45:21 2013 From: gpr at key-men.com (George Richardson) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2013 04:45:21 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 windshield mounting In-Reply-To: <008701cdeedb$a60c12b0$f2243810$@net> References: <008701cdeedb$a60c12b0$f2243810$@net> Message-ID: <50EE8DB1.4030301@key-men.com> I'm going to be doing this for my TR6 some time this year, and although I have no experience with it, I'm currently working on a Land Rover Discovery I bought cheap. The Discovery is like a greenhouse with the amount of glass it has and every one of these windows uses just a rubber seal. And around every seal it leaks and rusts. Use sealer. Land Rover owners recommend this stuff, whic hcan be used with the rubber gasket in place: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_flowable-silicone-windshield-and-glass-sealer-permatex_7160107-p?searchTerm=windshield+sealer George Richardson Key Men - Keys for Classics www.key-men.com On 1/9/2013 9:39 PM, Joseph Laurito wrote: > I'm preparing the windshield prior to mounting and have a few questions for > the group. The rubber seal that fits between the windshield frame and the > scuttle is a fairly tight fit. Should it be glued to the frame and, if so, > what adhesives are recommended. Is it a good idea to use some sort of > caulking between the seal and the body of the car to insure water tightness? > I see that the seal has a tendency to curl under the windshield frame. How > do you keep it flat? My initial thoughts where to use a length of twine to > pull it out while tightening the frame mounts, but that won't work if > caulking is required. > > Thanks in advance. > > Joe > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/gpr at key-men.com From lgmtr6 at yahoo.com Thu Jan 10 03:11:17 2013 From: lgmtr6 at yahoo.com (Triumph List) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2013 05:11:17 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 windshield mounting In-Reply-To: <50EE8DB1.4030301@key-men.com> References: <008701cdeedb$a60c12b0$f2243810$@net> <50EE8DB1.4030301@key-men.com> Message-ID: <2891B60C-358C-4989-88F1-46F25006A0B4@yahoo.com> I've done this job more times than I care to remember. It's an easy job but you really need two people. Use the silicone that George recommended or there is also a black silicone version that I usually use. Put the Gasket on the windshield first, put a small bead of silicone in the gap on the gasket, use slight pressure on the glass from the helper and pull the rope/twine around the gasket while pressed to the frame and you'll be amazed how quick it goes in. Don't let your helper press too hard or you'll be looking for another windshield. Same procedure for a Herald, Spitfire and Stag (done them all). Unfortunately, the new gaskets really don't last too long and get age cracks on the corners after 3-4 years, despite being garaged so buy a good quality gasket not the cheapest one. Larry Miceli Sent from my iPhone On Jan 10, 2013, at 4:45 AM, George Richardson wrote: > I'm going to be doing this for my TR6 some time this year, and although I have no experience with it, I'm currently working on a Land Rover Discovery I bought cheap. > > The Discovery is like a greenhouse with the amount of glass it has and every one of these windows uses just a rubber seal. > > And around every seal it leaks and rusts. Use sealer. > > Land Rover owners recommend this stuff, whic hcan be used with the rubber gasket in place: > > http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_flowable-s ilicone-windshield-and-glass-sealer-permatex_7160107-p?searchTerm=windshield+ sealer > > George Richardson > Key Men - Keys for Classics > www.key-men.com > > On 1/9/2013 9:39 PM, Joseph Laurito wrote: >> I'm preparing the windshield prior to mounting and have a few questions for >> the group. The rubber seal that fits between the windshield frame and the >> scuttle is a fairly tight fit. Should it be glued to the frame and, if so, >> what adhesives are recommended. Is it a good idea to use some sort of >> caulking between the seal and the body of the car to insure water tightness? >> I see that the seal has a tendency to curl under the windshield frame. How >> do you keep it flat? My initial thoughts where to use a length of twine to >> pull it out while tightening the frame mounts, but that won't work if >> caulking is required. >> >> Thanks in advance. >> >> Joe >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/gpr at key-men.com > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/lgmtr6 at yahoo.com From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Jan 10 05:46:56 2013 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2013 07:46:56 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] TR6 windshield mounting Message-ID: <7285.20dc04a7.3e201240@cs.com> I don't know about required but I recommend it. I fought leaks for years until I finally relented and put a bead of Dum Dum there. If I were to do it again I would use a gasket sealer or a weatherstrip adhesive an attach the seal to the bottom of the frame and then a bead of Dum Dum or maybe a bead of silicon between the seal and body. Gluing the seal to the frame may take care of the curling. Dave In a message dated 1/9/2013 8:41:00 PM Central Standard Time, trglory at verizon.net writes: > I'm preparing the windshield prior to mounting and have a few questions > for > the group. The rubber seal that fits between the windshield frame and the > scuttle is a fairly tight fit. Should it be glued to the frame and, if so, > what adhesives are recommended. Is it a good idea to use some sort of > caulking between the seal and the body of the car to insure water > tightness? > I see that the seal has a tendency to curl under the windshield frame. How > do you keep it flat? My initial thoughts where to use a length of twine to > pull it out while tightening the frame mounts, but that won't work if > caulking is required. From yellowtr at adelphia.net Thu Jan 10 06:05:33 2013 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2013 08:05:33 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 windshield mounting In-Reply-To: <008701cdeedb$a60c12b0$f2243810$@net> References: <008701cdeedb$a60c12b0$f2243810$@net> Message-ID: <50EEBC9D.7010902@adelphia.net> Joe, On both my 4 and 6 I did not use any silicone or other sealant. I have been in 2 really big downpours in my 4 and 1 in the 6 and there are no leaks whatsoever on either car in the windshield. Now, I have read the other replies that recommend using something, but for the life of me, I cant see how any water could get in through the seal, either from the body up or the windshield down. But as you can see by the previous replies, some owners have experienced leaks. Same thing with the glass seal. How could water get in through that tight seal unless the rubber was old and cracking? But I guess it couldnt hurt as long as the sealant did not affect the life of the rubber. Bob On 01/09/2013 09:39 PM, Joseph Laurito wrote: > I'm preparing the windshield prior to mounting and have a few questions for > the group. The rubber seal that fits between the windshield frame and the > scuttle is a fairly tight fit. Should it be glued to the frame and, if so, > what adhesives are recommended. Is it a good idea to use some sort of > caulking between the seal and the body of the car to insure water tightness? > I see that the seal has a tendency to curl under the windshield frame. How > do you keep it flat? My initial thoughts where to use a length of twine to > pull it out while tightening the frame mounts, but that won't work if > caulking is required. > > Thanks in advance. > > Joe From auprichard at uprichard.net Thu Jan 10 07:42:22 2013 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2013 09:42:22 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4A In-Reply-To: <3E682FE4-D4FD-41F3-99C7-DE8F448DA92A@sbcglobal.net> References: <3E682FE4-D4FD-41F3-99C7-DE8F448DA92A@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <001301cdef40$b5f80c50$21e824f0$@uprichard.net> John: good luck. My advice, crazy as it may sound, is go buy a TR4/4A parts car. Much as I love Moss motors and TRF, a restoration becomes very expensive of you go there for all the parts you need. I am on my fourth restoration and have an old TR3 I turn to each time I find a part missing, broken or beyond repair. And when I am finished, I'll probably get a good proportion of my money back on the parts car when I sell it off. Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of john-marie at sbcglobal.net Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2013 9:20 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR4A Hi all list members, My first post. I am about to begin a frame off restoration on a TR4A. Am looking for a restoration guide to help me along. I have found three doing an internet search. They are a little pricey, so I would like to invest in the best one. Any suggestions will be appreciated. TIA. John DeLuca ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Thu Jan 10 07:44:52 2013 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2013 07:44:52 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 windshield mounting In-Reply-To: <50EEBC9D.7010902@adelphia.net> References: <008701cdeedb$a60c12b0$f2243810$@net> <50EEBC9D.7010902@adelphia.net> Message-ID: Joe - I also used no sealant on the seal between the frame and body. I have driven in rain once in awhile over the past 10 years w/o any leak. I can almost see the possible need for sealant on the windscreen seal as not all glass seems to fit well -- but again, I used none there either w/o a problem. Geo From andygraybeal at earthlink.net Tue Jan 8 16:16:22 2013 From: andygraybeal at earthlink.net (Andy Graybeal) Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2013 15:16:22 -0800 Subject: [TR] Electronic flasher issue Message-ID: <2A5E3F2F-9BF0-4C70-9A5D-2137939BDF00@earthlink.net> Hi, all I recently purchased from Moss Motors and installed LED replacements for the original signal/tail lights. The lights work fine and are nice and bright, but the electronic flasher doesn't take a rest when the turn signal stalk is in the off position. It continues to click away but the only light affected is the indicator light on the dash. I can't figure out how to stop it. Anyone have that problem? Andy Graybeal From trglory at verizon.net Thu Jan 10 10:08:24 2013 From: trglory at verizon.net (Joseph Laurito) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2013 12:08:24 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 windshield mounting - part 2 Message-ID: <004d01cdef55$1a7c8840$4f7598c0$@net> Thanks for all the replies to my initial query on mounting the TR6 windshield to the body. Half used a compound between the rubber seal and the body, half did not. I looked at my old rubber seal that I removed and it did have the residue of a dum-dum-like material on the bottom of it. I also noticed that it did not curl under, but that's because it's old and hard whereas the new seal is soft and pliable. I'm guessing that the tendency to curl under is what makes for an effective seal. The problem is that if I use a caulking material, I can't use the rope trick to pull the curl out flat. PA is currently getting warm (high 40s) winds from the south, so I will be trying to beat the return of Old Man Winter. I will be gluing the seal to the windshield frame today, and want to mount the assembly to the body tomorrow. Any thoughts from those that did use a sealant? Am I anticipating a problem that doesn't really exist? I just don't want to end up scratching the paint with metal objects while trying to get the seal to lay flat. To be clear, I'm talking about the rubber seal that goes between the windshield frame and the body of the TR6. TR4s, TR250s and Spits should be similar. Thanks Joe From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Wed Jan 9 20:42:46 2013 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2013 19:42:46 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] tr4A....... Message-ID: <1357789366.99586.YahooMailNeo@web120602.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> I restored a tr-3 with the "how to restore tr-3" book and it was invaluable. I think the tr-4 book would be just as valuable to you. Read the whole book BEFORE starting a restoration as well as anything else you can read. Use several sources instead of just one. I also used internet searches for specific problems, a british car forum as well as this list. Internet help such as this list is priceless. I swear I would have given up on my project without the instant help available here. GOOD LUCK! gary n. From n197tr4 at cs.com Thu Jan 10 14:28:15 2013 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2013 16:28:15 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] TR3 STONE GUARDS Message-ID: <8CFBD90886867E8-1C34-4FE0@webmail-d065.sysops.aol.com> Randall and list: I read with interest about the stone guards. And their need to be reworked. At the present time, I understand there is only one source of these components. Does any one (Randall) have a set of cosmetically challenged stone guards sitting on the shelf that is OEM? I have been helping N.R.P. select panels for reproduction. This might be a candidate. Keith Niehaus is a talented welder/fabricator and is now shipping repair panels to Moss/TRF/VB. I would be willing to review with Keith to see if he is interested in tooling up for this set. And I have my TR3A available for him for reference and trial installation. What's in it for me? Keith is reworking our TR4 RACE CAR body while using it to develop repair panels. I am helping him with marketing and distribution, too. Joe Alexander A. R. E. 645 1st Street Jesup, Iowa 50648 319.464.4711 (cell) n197tr4 at cs.com From glemon at neb.rr.com Thu Jan 10 14:33:03 2013 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2013 15:33:03 -0600 Subject: [TR] tr4A....... In-Reply-To: <1357789366.99586.YahooMailNeo@web120602.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1357789366.99586.YahooMailNeo@web120602.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <19B523E7DC0E483AAE5A7747EA88EBED@GregPC> One of the best internet sources for my TR250 rebuild was the Buckeye Triumphs website, which has a great technical section covering many many rebuilds and installs on TRs, Vintage Triumph Register is pretty good too, I would bookmark both. Greg Lemon From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jan 10 16:25:30 2013 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2013 18:25:30 -0500 Subject: [TR] Electronic flasher issue In-Reply-To: <2A5E3F2F-9BF0-4C70-9A5D-2137939BDF00@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <20130110232530.DNIN6.191180.root@cdptpa-web19-z01> This is just a thought as I have not converted to LED tail lights. But I have noticed that some flashers do not work correctly with the dash lamp grounded, and do work properly if you instead connect the lamp to the green circuit (switched power). At any rate, this is an easy thing to try on a TR3 (not sure about later cars), as the lamp holder is not grounded through its mount. You can just remove the ground wire from the tie point on the back of the panel, and instead connect it to the hot terminal on the fuel gauge. HTH Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jan 10 16:54:04 2013 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2013 18:54:04 -0500 Subject: [TR] Electronic flasher issue In-Reply-To: <8C.42.12209.98E4FE05@cdptpa-mxlb.mail.rr.com> Message-ID: <20130110235404.CQ9U3.191341.root@cdptpa-web19-z01> ---- andygraybeal at earthlink.net wrote: > I apologize for this automatic reply to your email. > > To control spam, I now allow incoming messages only from senders I > have approved beforehand. > > If you would like to be added to my list of approved senders, please fill out the short request form Sorry, Andy, I don't play those games. If you want help with your Triumph questions, YOU need to deal with your silly anti-spam measures, not me. Randall From cliff_hansen at earthlink.net Thu Jan 10 17:10:43 2013 From: cliff_hansen at earthlink.net (Cliff Hansen) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2013 17:10:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 windshield mounting - part 2 In-Reply-To: <004d01cdef55$1a7c8840$4f7598c0$@net> References: <004d01cdef55$1a7c8840$4f7598c0$@net> Message-ID: <59A83D60DA1C4375B71366E292CF384D@Shemp> Joe, If you decide to use sealant between the frame and cowl, 3M auto glazing and bedding compound # 08509 was recommended to me for this application. Description:Non-hardening, pliable, water-resistant, medium- bodied sealer for sealing auto seams and between windshield rubber and car body. Can be used as a supplementary sealer for auto glass installation I intend to use this material, because without it I think I will get air or water leaking under the windshield frame. Cliff -----Original Message----- From: Joseph Laurito Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2013 10:08 AM To: Triumphs List Subject: [TR] TR6 windshield mounting - part 2 Thanks for all the replies to my initial query on mounting the TR6 windshield to the body. Half used a compound between the rubber seal and the body, half did not. I looked at my old rubber seal that I removed and it did have the residue of a dum-dum-like material on the bottom of it. I also noticed that it did not curl under, but that's because it's old and hard whereas the new seal is soft and pliable. I'm guessing that the tendency to curl under is what makes for an effective seal. The problem is that if I use a caulking material, I can't use the rope trick to pull the curl out flat. PA is currently getting warm (high 40s) winds from the south, so I will be trying to beat the return of Old Man Winter. I will be gluing the seal to the windshield frame today, and want to mount the assembly to the body tomorrow. Any thoughts from those that did use a sealant? Am I anticipating a problem that doesn't really exist? I just don't want to end up scratching the paint with metal objects while trying to get the seal to lay flat. To be clear, I'm talking about the rubber seal that goes between the windshield frame and the body of the TR6. TR4s, TR250s and Spits should be similar. Thanks Joe ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cliff_hansen at earthlink.net From auprichard at uprichard.net Fri Jan 11 15:40:34 2013 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2013 17:40:34 -0500 Subject: [TR] polarity question Message-ID: <001101cdf04c$ada73690$08f5a3b0$@uprichard.net> My understanding was it was a fairly simple exercise to convert positive ground to negative ground, namely wire everything the same (apart from the battery) and then touch the smaller generator terminal (green/yellow)to the positive pole of the battery a few times to re-polarize the generator. Did all this and still the battery is not charging. But if I bridge the green and yellow) to the positive pole of the battery, the generator will charge and the ignition light will go out. What I am missing here? Was there a step two I forgot? Andrew Uprichard From aljlthomson at charter.net Fri Jan 11 16:26:52 2013 From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex&Janet Thomson) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2013 18:26:52 -0500 Subject: [TR] polarity question In-Reply-To: <001101cdf04c$ada73690$08f5a3b0$@uprichard.net> References: <001101cdf04c$ada73690$08f5a3b0$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <003d01cdf053$23282e00$69788a00$@charter.net> A couple of thoughts - 1. The ignition coil will need to be reversed. 2. You may need a new regulator that is designed for the negative ground. I'm guessing that this project involves a generator. Alex Thomson -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard Sent: Friday, January 11, 2013 5:41 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] polarity question My understanding was it was a fairly simple exercise to convert positive ground to negative ground, namely wire everything the same (apart from the battery) and then touch the smaller generator terminal (green/yellow)to the positive pole of the battery a few times to re-polarize the generator. Did all this and still the battery is not charging. But if I bridge the green and yellow) to the positive pole of the battery, the generator will charge and the ignition light will go out. What I am missing here? Was there a step two I forgot? Andrew Uprichard ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jan 11 16:52:08 2013 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2013 18:52:08 -0500 Subject: [TR] polarity question In-Reply-To: <001101cdf04c$ada73690$08f5a3b0$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <20130111235208.2CR85.196562.root@cdptpa-web19-z01> ---- Andrew Uprichard wrote: > My understanding was it was a fairly simple exercise to convert positive > ground to negative ground, namely wire everything the same (apart from the > battery) and then touch the smaller generator terminal (green/yellow)to the > positive pole of the battery a few times to re-polarize the generator. That should work. It is best to swap the connections to the ignition coil and ammeter, but that won't have any effect on the charging system. Hate to say it, but I think you have some other failure that just happened to coincide with the change in battery polarity. There are some tests outlined at http://goo.gl/mQy6i that might help. BTW, be really careful about bridging the green/yellow to the battery while the engine is running. That drives the generator to full output, and it can put out enough current to damage itself. A few seconds will probably be OK, but don't try to drive that way. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jan 11 17:04:13 2013 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2013 19:04:13 -0500 Subject: [TR] polarity question In-Reply-To: <000101cdf055$e24a77f0$a6df67d0$@ameritech.net> Message-ID: <20130112000413.ZEEY6.196600.root@cdptpa-web19-z01> ---- Karl Vacek wrote: > Just lift one end and set it back down again, and it may > well read different by a couple of tenths of a degree or more. Sounds defective to me, my 3' bubble level is better than that. (0.2 degrees over 4 feet is more than 1/8") Take it back. Sorry, can't help with the smart level. Around here, even if it is dead nuts today, there'll likely be an earthquake next week and it won't be any more. I probably use the 8" torpedo level as much as the 3 footer, though. Randall From cliff_hansen at earthlink.net Wed Jan 9 19:52:13 2013 From: cliff_hansen at earthlink.net (Cliff Hansen) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2013 19:52:13 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4A In-Reply-To: <3E682FE4-D4FD-41F3-99C7-DE8F448DA92A@sbcglobal.net> References: <3E682FE4-D4FD-41F3-99C7-DE8F448DA92A@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: Welcome, and congratulations on the project. I'd get a copy of the factory parts catalog, if you can find one: http://trf.zeni.net/TR4-GB/223.php part number 514837. I'd also get Moss' catalog, which supplements the factory drawings with additional information and some additional pictures, but Moss uses a different part numbering scheme than did the factory, and many times it helps to know the factory numbers (e.g., to find out fastener sizes, for example.) I hardly ever pull out the Haynes or the original workshop manual I have. I probably would if I was working on the drivetrain, but I'm not. Cliff -----Original Message----- From: john-marie at sbcglobal.net Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2013 7:20 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR4A Hi all list members, My first post. I am about to begin a frame off restoration on a TR4A. Am looking for a restoration guide to help me along. I have found three doing an internet search. They are a little pricey, so I would like to invest in the best one. Any suggestions will be appreciated. TIA. John DeLuca ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cliff_hansen at earthlink.net From sevans8218 at aol.com Sat Jan 12 13:43:55 2013 From: sevans8218 at aol.com (Steven Evans) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2013 15:43:55 -0500 Subject: [TR] 1970 TR6 Muffler Message-ID: <02009DEB-A3E7-4874-A19B-918575F751C5@aol.com> Hello, Does anyone know who might sell the 1970 TR6 single pipe muffler (with the two tail pieces)? I can't find just the muffler alone without having to buy the entire pipe system along with it. Thanks. Steve From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Sun Jan 13 16:47:48 2013 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2013 15:47:48 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] another polarity ? Message-ID: <1358120868.38337.YahooMailNeo@web120605.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> I currently have a crane700 electronic ignition on my tr-3 with positive ground and am thinking of reversing polarity on it but am not sure how to deal with the coil wiring. Any suggestions? Some day...........month.......year.........also wanna go to alternator but that's for another time. thanks gary n. From l1j1s at aol.com Sun Jan 13 17:09:44 2013 From: l1j1s at aol.com (Lawrence Schwartz) Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2013 19:09:44 -0500 Subject: [TR] Fwd: another polarity ? References: <1358120868.38337.YahooMailNeo@web120605.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4C96329A-9183-4E54-ABF6-770A7BFE3751@aol.com> I do know with a Pertronix setup, one can buy it either positive ground or negative ground. So first check out the Crane setup and see if there is a switch to change the polarity before you attempt to change the polarity on the car. Larry Schwartz Sent from my iPhone Begin forwarded message: > From: Gary Nafziger > Date: January 13, 2013, 6:47:48 PM EST > To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" > Subject: [TR] another polarity ? > Reply-To: Gary Nafziger > > I currently have a crane700 electronic ignition on my tr-3 with positive > ground and am thinking of reversing polarity on it but am not sure how to deal > with the coil wiring. Any suggestions? > > Some > day...........month.......year.........also wanna go to alternator but that's > for another time. > > thanks > > gary n. > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/l1j1s at aol.com From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jan 13 17:20:01 2013 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2013 16:20:01 -0800 Subject: [TR] another polarity ? In-Reply-To: <1358120868.38337.YahooMailNeo@web120605.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: > I currently have a crane700 electronic ignition on my tr-3 > with positive ground and am thinking of reversing polarity on > it but am not sure how to deal with the coil wiring. Any > suggestions? Depends on which version of the XR700 you have. The early ones were polarity-specific; to switch polarity you had to replace the box. The later ones with the LED on the side of the module could be wired either way. Here are the instructions, if you are lucky enough to have the later version http://goo.gl/K3C2h Basically, the connections from the module to the coil and pickup remain the same, but the box has to get positive on the red wire and negative on the black wire. That means you will be removing the present ground connection from the red wire, grounding the black wire instead, and connecting the original power from the ignition switch (white wire from the harness) to the red wire. -- Randall From jtnichols at comcast.net Mon Jan 14 07:25:08 2013 From: jtnichols at comcast.net (John T Nichols) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 09:25:08 -0500 Subject: [TR] A bit much... Message-ID: <50F41544.4010504@comcast.net> http://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/dealer/triumph/tr6/1521807.html?refer=news Note the rear tires on this thing. John T. Nichols '58 TR3A TS32093LO '86 TVR 280i From triumphs at consolidated.net Mon Jan 14 07:26:12 2013 From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Home Consolidated) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 08:26:12 -0600 Subject: [TR] Chicago swap meet Message-ID: <875C00B5-B6F7-47FA-A1D1-B49B5920CC97@consolidated.net> Does anyone know the date this year? Ken Gano Sent from my iPad From pethier at comcast.net Mon Jan 14 07:43:04 2013 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 14:43:04 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] A bit much... In-Reply-To: <50F41544.4010504@comcast.net> Message-ID: <980458722.733680.1358174584195.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Ho-hum. Very pedestrian compared to the one in our club. :-) This TR6 looks slower but more steetable than the one here in Minnesota. The one here has a lot more horsies, but the wheelbase has been lengthened to help it stay straight on the strip. http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/213592914/in/set-72157594234621685/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/213592914/in/set-72157594234621685/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/213631114/in/set-72157594234621685/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/213636465/in/set-72157594234621685/ Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier at comcast.net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica http://www.mnautox.com http://www.mntriumphs.org ----- Original Message ----- > From: "John T Nichols" > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Monday, January 14, 2013 8:25:08 AM > Subject: [TR] A bit much... > http://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/dealer/triumph/tr6/1521807.html?refer=news > > Note the rear tires on this thing. > > John T. Nichols > '58 TR3A TS32093LO > '86 TVR 280i From bberger720 at sbcglobal.net Mon Jan 14 08:25:32 2013 From: bberger720 at sbcglobal.net (Berger Bob) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 09:25:32 -0600 Subject: [TR] Chicago swap meet In-Reply-To: <875C00B5-B6F7-47FA-A1D1-B49B5920CC97@consolidated.net> References: <875C00B5-B6F7-47FA-A1D1-B49B5920CC97@consolidated.net> Message-ID: Our club newsletter has the date as Feb 24th. Here is the web page http://swapmeet.chicagolandmgclub.com Bob Berger 78 Spitfire St. Louis, MO NASS #627 On Jan 14, 2013, at 8:26 AM, Home Consolidated wrote: > Does anyone know the date this year? > > Ken Gano From keithstewart at execulink.com Mon Jan 14 10:04:41 2013 From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 12:04:41 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 Dash Bracket (Radio) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <11ECD207-A785-450E-B84F-E383919727A9@execulink.com> Another question for you TR4 Original Owners out there. I acquired my 1962 TR4 (CT6716LO) tin 1966 with 17000 miles. It had a Triumph radio installed. The steel bracket that housed the radio (between the bottom of the dash and the top of the support that straddles the gearbox cover) was covered with a vinyl, grained similar to the grain on the dash padding. Moss has this bracket in flat steel and suggests you can finish it to as needed. http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=48303 On the other hand, British Wiring has the same shaped bracket, finished in a black powder coated wrinkle finish "as original" http://www.britishwiring.com/TR4-Radio-Bracket-p/tr4rb.htm For you original owners out there, was your bracket wrinkle finish or vinyl covered? (Also, did yours have a Triumph radio or not? - in case that makes a difference) As always, thanks so much for your feedback. Keith R. Stewart London, Ontario E-Mail: keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Mon Jan 14 10:12:31 2013 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 09:12:31 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Best Year Spitfire? Message-ID: <1358183551.12211.YahooMailNeo@web180905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> I drive TR's and am not very familiar with Spitfires. I have a friend at work looking for a good restored Spitfire. Are any years better than others? Did they rework the rear suspension at some point to get rid of wheel tuck & hop? Any engines better than others? Does anyone have a good Spitfire on the West coast that they would like to see go to a good home? TIA, -Bill in Tehachapi From jodyfkerr at gmail.com Mon Jan 14 10:36:57 2013 From: jodyfkerr at gmail.com (Jody Kerr) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 10:36:57 -0700 Subject: [TR] Best Year Spitfire? In-Reply-To: <1358183551.12211.YahooMailNeo@web180905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1358183551.12211.YahooMailNeo@web180905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: In my opinion the Mark III was the best of the line. It retained much of the early charm of the Spitfire looks, had the best engine, and if you can find one with the optional overdrive, a complete joy to drive. We've presently got a pair of '78 Spitfire 1500's and I'd exchange mine for an earlier one in a heartbeat. Jody On Mon, Jan 14, 2013 at 10:12 AM, William Brewer wrote: > I drive TR's and am not very familiar with Spitfires. I have a friend at > work looking for a good restored Spitfire. Are any years better than others? > Did they rework the rear suspension at some point to get rid of wheel tuck & > hop? Any engines better than others? Does anyone have a good Spitfire on the > West coast that they would like to see go to a good home? > TIA, > > > -Bill in Tehachapi > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jodyfkerr at gmail.com -- http://www.theymightberacing.com/ 1953 Studebaker Champion 1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854) 1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's) 1981 Triumph TR8 1970 MG MGB 1980 Triumph TR7 "Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so." --Douglas Adams From wquincy at cox.net Mon Jan 14 11:28:57 2013 From: wquincy at cox.net (William C. Quincy) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 12:28:57 -0600 Subject: [TR] Instrument Rebuilding Message-ID: Greetings Listers, I'd appreciate some opinions from the list on who is currently "the guys" to do instrument rebuild / calibration. Currently I've identified that my Tac, Speedo and Temp. gauges are all liars. P.S. the temp gauge is from a early TR4 so it's electric. Bill Quincy 1960 TR3A From sukatr3 at gmail.com Mon Jan 14 11:42:22 2013 From: sukatr3 at gmail.com (HANS DEFERRANTE) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 10:42:22 -0800 Subject: [TR] Spit 1500 trip reset button Message-ID: <5AA021D7-1FB2-4A6A-9A35-D351B48007FC@gmail.com> I am restoring a '76 Spit and am at a loss where the trip reset button mounts. It was just hanging under the dashboard. A pic would be most helpful. Thanks Hans '61TR3A '76 Spit From Michael.Mack at redcross.org Mon Jan 14 11:50:22 2013 From: Michael.Mack at redcross.org (Mack, Michael (Rochester)) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 18:50:22 +0000 Subject: [TR] Spit 1500 trip reset button In-Reply-To: <5AA021D7-1FB2-4A6A-9A35-D351B48007FC@gmail.com> References: <5AA021D7-1FB2-4A6A-9A35-D351B48007FC@gmail.com> Message-ID: <6A6C6BB6A374144385E5E3CF3864B54524507BAF@BY2PRD0410MB377.namprd04.prod.outlook.com> Just to the right of the steering column. There will be a hole in the metal that strengthens the black padded trim under the wood dash. Use the length of the reset cable to find the hole. It will be at the point of the length of the cables limit. Mike Mack 79 Spitfire 80 TR8 76 TR7 73 Stag -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of HANS DEFERRANTE Sent: Monday, January 14, 2013 1:42 PM To: Triumph List Subject: [TR] Spit 1500 trip reset button I am restoring a '76 Spit and am at a loss where the trip reset button mounts. It was just hanging under the dashboard. A pic would be most helpful. Thanks Hans '61TR3A '76 Spit ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/michael.mack at redcross.org From jholekamp at sbcglobal.net Mon Jan 14 11:58:43 2013 From: jholekamp at sbcglobal.net (Jay Holekamp) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 10:58:43 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Chicago Swap Meet Message-ID: <1358189923.60954.YahooMailRC@web184405.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> The date is 24 Feb 13 see http://www.britishcarswap.info/ brgds, Jay From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Jan 14 12:00:04 2013 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 14:00:04 -0500 Subject: [TR] Instrument Rebuilding In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <956B9BFA49884F6C94CAFC49DA9D34E1@BobDell> "All" of the 6-Pack guys have moved to Morris at West Valley instruments over the past few years. Outstanding work, good price and accurate turnaround times. http://westvalleyinstruments.com/ but call and ask for Morris. Bob Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/ 1975 TR6 modified with: -Throttle Body Injection -Toyota 5 Speed -Nissan Differential -AAW Wire Harness -CVJs... and more -----Original Message----- From: William C. Quincy Sent: Monday, January 14, 2013 1:28 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Instrument Rebuilding Greetings Listers, I'd appreciate some opinions from the list on who is currently "the guys" to do instrument rebuild / calibration. Currently I've identified that my Tac, Speedo and Temp. gauges are all liars. P.S. the temp gauge is from a early TR4 so it's electric. Bill Quincy 1960 TR3A ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From jholekamp at sbcglobal.net Mon Jan 14 12:06:26 2013 From: jholekamp at sbcglobal.net (Jay Holekamp) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 11:06:26 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] TR] TR4 Dash Bracket (Radio) Message-ID: <1358190386.3336.YahooMailRC@web184404.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> The dash connecting plate "radio bracket" in my '64 TR4, [CT38895LO] owned since '67, is and always has been vinyl covered with no radio. brgds, Jay From TR250Driver at aol.com Mon Jan 14 13:45:20 2013 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 15:45:20 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Instrument Rebuilding Message-ID: <3de93.765bb37c.3e25c85f@aol.com> Bill, I used _http://www.nisonger.com/_ (http://www.nisonger.com/) for my TR3B's oil pressure gauge. They did a nice job. I am about to give them my TR6's Speedometer. Regards, Darrell In a message dated 1/14/2013 1:29:21 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, wquincy at cox.net writes: Greetings Listers, I'd appreciate some opinions from the list on who is currently "the guys" to do instrument rebuild / calibration. Currently I've identified that my Tac, Speedo and Temp. gauges are all liars. P.S. the temp gauge is from a early TR4 so it's electric. Bill Quincy 1960 TR3A ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr250driver at aol.com From carlsereda at aol.com Mon Jan 14 13:59:40 2013 From: carlsereda at aol.com (Carl Sereda) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 15:59:40 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 6, Issue 19 Message-ID: <8CFC0B134996F9D-6F0-23499@webmail-d082.sysops.aol.com> Hi Keith, I have the 3 factory versions of TR4 radio plates; 1962, 1963, 1964. Some were black wrinkle paint, some vinyl covered, with or without a radio. Your's sounds right, just the way you found it. I'll be using the 1964 version as it has bigger radio face hole and slots for knobs versus the round holes, giving best option for vintage or newer radios. I have a picture of the brackets if interested. Regards, Carl '63 TR4 since '74 Another question for you TR4 Original Owners out there. I acquired my 1962 TR4 (CT6716LO) tin 1966 with 17000 miles. It had a Triumph radio installed. The steel bracket that housed the radio (between the bottom of the dash and the top of the support that straddles the gearbox cover) was covered with a vinyl, grained similar to the grain on the dash padding. Moss has this bracket in flat steel and suggests you can finish it to as needed. http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=48303 On the other hand, British Wiring has the same shaped bracket, finished in a black powder coated wrinkle finish "as original" http://www.britishwiring.com/TR4-Radio-Bracket-p/tr4rb.htm For you original owners out there, was your bracket wrinkle finish or vinyl covered? (Also, did yours have a Triumph radio or not? - in case that makes a difference) As always, thanks so much for your feedback From auprichard at uprichard.net Mon Jan 14 13:59:46 2013 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 15:59:46 -0500 Subject: [TR] charging issue Message-ID: <012601cdf29a$16893ab0$439bb010$@uprichard.net> I had posted a question about a charging issue in my newly-restored TR3. I thought I had made an error in converting from positive to negative ground, but it was Randall who suggested I look elsewhere. I had excluded the regulator, as I had tried TWO others without success, but today I tried a FOURTH and all is well. So Randall was right (again)..... Does this guy ever tire of all his successes ??? One final question: I now have three regulators which aren't working: Are they worth fixing/re-calibrating, and if so, who would do it? Andrew Uprichard From auprichard at uprichard.net Mon Jan 14 14:01:20 2013 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 16:01:20 -0500 Subject: [TR] Instrument Rebuilding In-Reply-To: <3de93.765bb37c.3e25c85f@aol.com> References: <3de93.765bb37c.3e25c85f@aol.com> Message-ID: <012701cdf29a$51ef1200$f5cd3600$@uprichard.net> I have used several groups, but Nisonger is at the top of my list. Andrew -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TR250Driver at aol.com Sent: Monday, January 14, 2013 3:45 PM To: wquincy at cox.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Instrument Rebuilding Bill, I used _http://www.nisonger.com/_ (http://www.nisonger.com/) for my TR3B's oil pressure gauge. They did a nice job. I am about to give them my TR6's Speedometer. Regards, Darrell In a message dated 1/14/2013 1:29:21 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, wquincy at cox.net writes: Greetings Listers, I'd appreciate some opinions from the list on who is currently "the guys" to do instrument rebuild / calibration. Currently I've identified that my Tac, Speedo and Temp. gauges are all liars. P.S. the temp gauge is from a early TR4 so it's electric. Bill Quincy 1960 TR3A ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr250driver at aol.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From fogbro1 at comcast.net Mon Jan 14 14:42:53 2013 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 21:42:53 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] charging issue In-Reply-To: <012601cdf29a$16893ab0$439bb010$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <513240486.2678545.1358199773635.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> 9 times out of 10, the points are dirty. It's probably not the correct material to use, but I've run a piece of 320 wet or dry between the points with great success. Ed ----- Original Message ----- From: "Andrew Uprichard" To: "Randall" , triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, January 14, 2013 3:59:46 PM Subject: [TR] charging issue I had posted a question about a charging issue in my newly-restored TR3. B I thought I had made an error in converting from positive to negative ground, but it was Randall who suggested I look elsewhere. I had excluded the regulator, as I had tried TWO others without success, but today I tried a FOURTH and all is well. B So Randall was right (again)..... Does this guy ever tire of all his successes ??? One final question: B I now have three regulators which aren't working: B Are they worth fixing/re-calibrating, and if so, who would do it? Andrew Uprichard ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fogbro1 at comcast.net From allenhess at mgcarclub.com Mon Jan 14 14:49:53 2013 From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 16:49:53 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 Dash Bracket (Radio) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5307488A-3EAF-43CA-92F8-1611AB4BA88F@mgcarclub.com> Mine is a '62 with black wrinkle paint and a Triumph radio. On Jan 14, 2013, at 1:54 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > Another question for you TR4 Original Owners out there. I acquired > my 1962 TR4 > (CT6716LO) tin 1966 with 17000 miles. It had a Triumph radio > installed. The > steel bracket that housed the radio (between the bottom of the dash > and the > top of the support that straddles the gearbox cover) was covered > with a vinyl, > grained similar to the grain on the dash padding. Moss has this > bracket in > flat steel and suggests you can finish it to as needed. > http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=48303 > > On the other hand, British Wiring has the same shaped bracket, > finished in a > black powder coated wrinkle finish "as original" > http://www.britishwiring.com/TR4-Radio-Bracket-p/tr4rb.htm > > For you original owners out there, was your bracket wrinkle finish > or vinyl > covered? (Also, did yours have a Triumph radio or not? - in case > that makes a > difference) From pbrandsema at triad.rr.com Mon Jan 14 14:49:48 2013 From: pbrandsema at triad.rr.com (pbrandsema at triad.rr.com) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 16:49:48 -0500 Subject: [TR] Convertible Top Materials Message-ID: <20130114214948.A2IM7.46409.root@hrndva-web04-z01> I'm considering buying a new top for my TR4. I've given up on the one I have, which came with the car. I've tried to stretch it, using all the know suggestions (leave it in the sun, heater in car, wallpaper steamer), but as soon as it contracts, the snaps start to rip away! At one point, I think this was a very good quality top, maybe the canvas and not the vinyl. Anyway back to the new top. Been looking at the ususal sites, and though I would like to go top shelf, my budget just won't support it. So it's going to be vinyl. Question - whats the difference between Bison and Everflex vinyl? I found one site (premiumcovertibletops.com) selling tops for $269, which are the Bison Vinyl. The Everflex are more expensive, but it does appear on the VB online site, that the they're selling the Everflex for $329. Has anyone every purchased one of these tops from VB? Is the Bison Vinyl going to hold up? I would note that my first preference is top down, so maybe not as much wear and tear? If anyone knows of other good sources (quality at a good price), other than the big 3 (Moss, TRF, VB), please let me know. Thanks, Paul 61 TR4 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jan 14 15:20:24 2013 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 17:20:24 -0500 Subject: [TR] Instrument Rebuilding In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20130114222024.WMSRJ.207399.root@cdptpa-web19-z01> ---- "William C. Quincy" wrote: > P.S. the temp gauge is from a early TR4 so it's electric. Don't forget, that means it needs the voltage stabilizer in the circuit. Without the stabilizer it will read way high even after being "repaired". I did my own, so no feedback on the best service to use. Recalibrating the speedo was a fun and educational project, I'll have to write it up some day. Basically I rigged my soldering gun as a demagnetizer (using a bolt and some wire) to weaken the flying magnet inside the speedo. That worked a little too well, so then I had to remagnetize it using a horseshoe electromagnet that I quickly made from a muffler clamp, some insulated wire, and a couple of big capacitors. Then the second time I was a little more careful with the soldering gun degausser, and got it just right. (According to the electronic tach I got from Harbor Freight, which may not be the best reference.) http://www.harborfreight.com/digital-contact-tachometer-66400.html Randall From hdrider570 at att.net Mon Jan 14 16:15:42 2013 From: hdrider570 at att.net (Q) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 15:15:42 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] TR4 Dash Bracket (Radio) Message-ID: <1358205342.64038.YahooMailClassic@web184303.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> I had a fairly early TR4 CY13,*** LO which I bought from the original owner years ago (1973 I think). It had a Triumph AM radio mounted in a metal bracket with black "wrinkle" paint on it. Edward Hamer Petaluma CA From wbeech at flash.net Mon Jan 14 16:30:46 2013 From: wbeech at flash.net (WBEECH) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 17:30:46 -0600 Subject: [TR] Convertible Top Materials In-Reply-To: <20130114214948.A2IM7.46409.root@hrndva-web04-z01> References: <20130114214948.A2IM7.46409.root@hrndva-web04-z01> Message-ID: <419D42BD-F756-44F9-A1D9-8F5F76A190FD@flash.net> Jeff Zorn, at LBCarCo, has a UK source that helped me with an Everflex tonneau cover at a reasonable cost, you might check with him. Sent from mobile Bill On Jan 14, 2013, at 3:49 PM, wrote: I'm considering buying a new top for my TR4. I've given up on the one I have, which came with the car. I've tried to stretch it, using all the know suggestions (leave it in the sun, heater in car, wallpaper steamer), but as soon as it contracts, the snaps start to rip away! At one point, I think this was a very good quality top, maybe the canvas and not the vinyl. Anyway back to the new top. Been looking at the ususal sites, and though I would like to go top shelf, my budget just won't support it. So it's going to be vinyl. Question - whats the difference between Bison and Everflex vinyl? I found one site (premiumcovertibletops.com) selling tops for $269, which are the Bison Vinyl. The Everflex are more expensive, but it does appear on the VB online site, that the they're selling the Everflex for $329. Has anyone every purchased one of these tops from VB? Is the Bison Vinyl going to hold up? I would note that my first preference is top down, so maybe not as much wear and tear? If anyone knows of other good sources (quality at a good price), other than the big 3 (Moss, TRF, VB), please let me know. Thanks, Paul 61 TR4 ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From spitlist at cox.net Mon Jan 14 16:57:04 2013 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 16:57:04 -0700 Subject: [TR] Best Year Spitfire? In-Reply-To: <1358183551.12211.YahooMailNeo@web180905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1358183551.12211.YahooMailNeo@web180905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Bill, That is a very personal question. The answer depends entirely on who you ask. Personally I like the round tail ones and mostly the Mk1 and Mk2 when the front bumper is lower. The Mk3 however has a superior engine. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer Sent: Monday, January 14, 2013 10:13 AM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] Best Year Spitfire? I drive TR's and am not very familiar with Spitfires. I have a friend at work looking for a good restored Spitfire. Are any years better than others? Did they rework the rear suspension at some point to get rid of wheel tuck & hop? Any engines better than others? Does anyone have a good Spitfire on the West coast that they would like to see go to a good home? TIA, -Bill in Tehachapi ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net From spitlist at cox.net Mon Jan 14 16:58:03 2013 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 16:58:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] Best Year Spitfire? In-Reply-To: <1358183551.12211.YahooMailNeo@web180905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1358183551.12211.YahooMailNeo@web180905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <67E42F3A6A6E464F8D0932FF66FFBFE6@Vista> Oh, I forgot. Just add a camber compensator and that will eliminate the wheel tuck issues. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer Sent: Monday, January 14, 2013 10:13 AM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] Best Year Spitfire? I drive TR's and am not very familiar with Spitfires. I have a friend at work looking for a good restored Spitfire. Are any years better than others? Did they rework the rear suspension at some point to get rid of wheel tuck & hop? Any engines better than others? Does anyone have a good Spitfire on the West coast that they would like to see go to a good home? TIA, -Bill in Tehachapi ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net From n197tr4 at cs.com Mon Jan 14 17:55:59 2013 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 19:55:59 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] DASH BRACKETS (RADIO) Message-ID: <8CFC0D237E6D814-84C-14331@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com> Carl Sereda fails to mention that he is responsible for the replicated generic panel offered by Moss. Based on dimensions and information supplied by Carl and another enthusiast, we decided to make 50, and it didnt make any difference if it lost money. We did it because we could and we were being encouraged to do so.. The basic dimensions and angles are precisely the same as OEM. We sold the initial 50 and have had several runs since then. Joe Alexander A. R. E. 645 1st Street Jesup, Iowa 50648 319.464.4711 (cell) n197tr4 at cs.com From leejohn7 at gmail.com Mon Jan 14 18:02:27 2013 From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 17:02:27 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR] TR4 Dash Bracket (Radio) In-Reply-To: <1358190386.3336.YahooMailRC@web184404.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> References: <1358190386.3336.YahooMailRC@web184404.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: My one-owner 64-5 TR4 has a radio bracket finished in wrinkle black, but not the original radio. Cheers, John Howard On Mon, Jan 14, 2013 at 11:06 AM, Jay Holekamp wrote: > The dash connecting plate "radio bracket" in my '64 TR4, [CT38895LO] owned > since > '67, is and always has been vinyl covered with no radio. > > > brgds, Jay > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/leejohn7 at gmail.com From jagmog at hotmail.com Mon Jan 14 08:41:35 2013 From: jagmog at hotmail.com (Jonas Payne) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 07:41:35 -0800 Subject: [TR] Chicago swap meet In-Reply-To: References: <875C00B5-B6F7-47FA-A1D1-B49B5920CC97@consolidated.net> Message-ID: Not at all, thanks, Jonas Payne PBR Consulting 702-882-6711 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Berger Bob Sent: Monday, January 14, 2013 7:26 AM To: Listserv Triumph Subject: Re: [TR] Chicago swap meet Our club newsletter has the date as Feb 24th. Here is the web page http://swapmeet.chicagolandmgclub.com Bob Berger 78 Spitfire St. Louis, MO NASS #627 On Jan 14, 2013, at 8:26 AM, Home Consolidated wrote: > Does anyone know the date this year? > > Ken Gano ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jagmog at hotmail.com From auprichard at uprichard.net Mon Jan 14 18:53:57 2013 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 20:53:57 -0500 Subject: [TR] charging issue In-Reply-To: <513240486.2678545.1358199773635.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <012601cdf29a$16893ab0$439bb010$@uprichard.net> <513240486.2678545.1358199773635.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <013b01cdf2c3$2f4f67d0$8dee3770$@uprichard.net> Thanks! I heard somewhere about a guy (possibly in New Hampshire) who refurbishes these regulators with solid-state hardware. Anyone know more about this? Andrew From: fogbro1 at comcast.net [mailto:fogbro1 at comcast.net] Sent: Monday, January 14, 2013 4:43 PM To: Andrew Uprichard Cc: Randall; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] charging issue 9 times out of 10, the points are dirty. It's probably not the correct material to use, but I've run a piece of 320 wet or dry between the points with great success. Ed _____ From: "Andrew Uprichard" To: "Randall" , triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, January 14, 2013 3:59:46 PM Subject: [TR] charging issue I had posted a question about a charging issue in my newly-restored TR3. I thought I had made an error in converting from positive to negative ground, but it was Randall who suggested I look elsewhere. I had excluded the regulator, as I had tried TWO others without success, but today I tried a FOURTH and all is well. So Randall was right (again)..... Does this guy ever tire of all his successes ??? One final question: I now have three regulators which aren't working: Are they worth fixing/re-calibrating, and if so, who would do it? Andrew Uprichard ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fogbro1 at comcast.net From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Mon Jan 14 20:13:19 2013 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (suhringtr36 at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2013 03:13:19 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Testing OD Solenoid In-Reply-To: <364830567.2521857.1358219311321.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1329721138.2522042.1358219599445.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> After replacing the throwout beraring on my '59 TR3A, I thought I would take advantage of the transmission being exposed and trouble shoot why my OD was not working. My question to the list is with the ignition turned on but the engine off, I can throw the OD switch and hear the solenoid click on and off, but I see no movement of the plunger. When testing it this way, should I see any movement or is this all internal and therefore ou would only hear the engagement? On another note, those on the list from PA, I just got my vintage plate registered for my TR3A. Yes, PA finally woke up and now allows you to register a vintage PA plate. It must be the same year as your car and the plate cannot show up in anyone else's name. Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3A From glemon at neb.rr.com Mon Jan 14 21:25:12 2013 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (glemon at neb.rr.com) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 22:25:12 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR] TR4 Dash Bracket (Radio) In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20130115042512.8MSPA.120403.root@hrndva-web16-z01> I have only seen them with a black wrinkle finish. Learn something new everyday. Think i still have a decent original somewhere. Will sell quite reasonably if a Lister needs one. Greg Lemon From glemon at neb.rr.com Mon Jan 14 21:26:04 2013 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (glemon at neb.rr.com) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2013 4:26:04 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR] TR4 Dash Bracket (Radio) Message-ID: <20130115042604.MD4RL.120406.root@hrndva-web16-z01> I have only seen them with a black wrinkle finish. Learn something new everyday. Think i still have a decent original somewhere. Will sell quite reasonably if a Lister needs one. Greg Lemon From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jan 14 21:44:39 2013 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 20:44:39 -0800 Subject: [TR] charging issue In-Reply-To: <013b01cdf2c3$2f4f67d0$8dee3770$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <6F.EF.25866.4BED4F05@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> > Thanks! I heard somewhere about a guy (possibly in New > Hampshire) who refurbishes these regulators with solid-state > hardware. Anyone know more about this? I believe that would be Wilton Auto Electric, in Wilton, NH. http://www.wiltonae.com/products/index.aspx No personal experience, but I've heard from several happy customers. Randall From levilevi at comcast.net Mon Jan 14 21:55:57 2013 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud R) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 21:55:57 -0700 Subject: [TR] Testing OD Solenoid In-Reply-To: <1329721138.2522042.1358219599445.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1329721138.2522042.1358219599445.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <0FE40F08-E964-4D4F-9D9E-3C470B3DE6C5@comcast.net> I had a recent experience with the same symptoms on my OD. Usually it means the solenoid is bad, but NOT always. I switched solenoids (I had a spare from another OD handy) and it did the same thing, clicked but didn't move the plunger. Turns out the OD relay was bad. It had enough voltage to make the solenoid click but didn't send enough current to the solenoid to pull the plunger up. Put in a new relay and all was good. Strange behavior and it wasn't mentioned in Dan Master's book. Had me going until someone on the list explained that it's current that provides the umph to move the plunger not the voltage which only makes the solenoid do a click and not a pull. There's two circuits in the solenoid one to pull the plunger and one to hold it so if it doesn't get pulled no OD. Apparently OD relays can burn the points and reduce the current to the solenoid. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) On Jan 14, 2013, at 8:13 PM, suhringtr36 at comcast.net wrote: > After replacing the throwout beraring on my '59 TR3A, I thought I > would take advantage of the transmission being exposed and trouble > shoot why my OD was not working. My question to the list is with > the ignition turned on but the engine off, I can throw the OD switch > and hear the solenoid click on and off, but I see no movement of the > plunger. When testing it this way, should I see any movement or is > this all internal and therefore ou would only hear the engagement? > > On another note, those on the list from PA, I just got my vintage > plate registered for my TR3A. Yes, PA finally woke up and now > allows you to register a vintage PA plate. It must be the same year > as your car and the plate cannot show up in anyone else's name. > > Scott Suhring > Mechanicsburg, PA > '70 TR6 > '59 TR3A > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jan 15 00:56:36 2013 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2013 23:56:36 -0800 Subject: [TR] Testing OD Solenoid In-Reply-To: <1329721138.2522042.1358219599445.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: > My > question to the list is with the ignition turned on but the > engine off, I can throw the OD switch and hear the solenoid > click on and off, but I see no movement of the plunger. When > testing it this way, should I see any movement or is this all > internal and therefore ou would only hear the engagement? Normally, you should be able to see the plunger pull up into the solenoid. However with no pressure in the OD (or if the adjustment has slipped), the plunger may have not fallen back down. If it is already up, you might not see it move. Move it to be sure it is down and try again. And as Bud already pointed out, check the voltage right at the solenoid with the solenoid still connected. The solenoid draws a big wad of current when it moves, so any little resistance in the circuit (like a dodgy connection or a bad relay) will keep it from getting the current it needs. -- Randall From Chip19474 at aol.com Tue Jan 15 07:59:08 2013 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2013 09:59:08 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Best Year Spitfire? Message-ID: <389.2e0b0fa0.3e26c8bc@aol.com> Bill, IMHO.....I prefer the last of the "roundtail" Spit's - the 1970 Mark 3.....the front bumper was raised enough to be a little more effective yet the soft styling was still maintained. The engine was still strong enough to have a lot of fun with (pre USA emissions stuff)..... Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1962 TR4 CT2052L In a message dated 1/14/2013 12:12:48 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, wsb1960tr3a at att.net writes: I drive TR's and am not very familiar with Spitfires. I have a friend at work looking for a good restored Spitfire. Are any years better than others? Did they rework the rear suspension at some point to get rid of wheel tuck & hop? Any engines better than others? Does anyone have a good Spitfire on the West coast that they would like to see go to a good home? TIA, -Bill in Tehachapi ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/chip19474 at aol.com From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk Tue Jan 15 08:29:48 2013 From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2013 15:29:48 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] Best Year Spitfire? In-Reply-To: <389.2e0b0fa0.3e26c8bc@aol.com> References: <389.2e0b0fa0.3e26c8bc@aol.com> Message-ID: <1358263788.97362.YahooMailNeo@web171901.mail.ir2.yahoo.com> If I was looking for a Spitfire and having driven all variants down the years as new and used cars, It's a one horse race in favour of the Mk 3 with the 1296cc small bearing engine, with no early emission control trash and an overdrive. That ticks all the boxes! The Mk IV with the 1300 engine wasn't nearly as much fun and I found the 1500 to be a big disappointment except for the fact that it held the road better. Let's face it, rear-end breakaway up to the days of the 'swing spring' was always a prominent Spitfire feature and it all adds up to the enjoyment of driving one. There's only one better alternative in the rear end drama department and that's either a Mk 1 GT6 or a Mk 1 2 litre Vitesse without the GT6 lower wishbone set up. Best laxatives known to man on a wet road with bias ply tyres as many of them had ex factory! Jonmac From dave at ranteer.com Tue Jan 15 11:44:29 2013 From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2013 12:44:29 -0600 Subject: [TR] charging issue In-Reply-To: <6F.EF.25866.4BED4F05@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> References: <6F.EF.25866.4BED4F05@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> Message-ID: <94C04313B6D34927A55543EDFB7D5223@Datsun> I believe wilton also takes the old analog devices and puts in a digital interior. unless you open them you can't tell the difference. I have heard may people extol their praises -----Original Message----- From: Randall Sent: Monday, January 14, 2013 10:44 PM Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] charging issue > Thanks! I heard somewhere about a guy (possibly in New > Hampshire) who refurbishes these regulators with solid-state > hardware. Anyone know more about this? I believe that would be Wilton Auto Electric, in Wilton, NH. http://www.wiltonae.com/products/index.aspx No personal experience, but I've heard from several happy customers. From carlsereda at aol.com Tue Jan 15 13:37:55 2013 From: carlsereda at aol.com (Carl Sereda) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2013 15:37:55 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] TR4 radio brackets & overrider struts In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CFC17754BDA4E6-61C-2EFBD@Webmail-d112.sysops.aol.com> Thanks for the shout-out Joe, The other guy, who input measurements into CAD plotter for manufacturing drawings was Kurtis Jones.. wow, back in 2005.. Ps; I also made detailed drawings of the two TR4 front bumper overrider 'struts' which would be easy enough to replicate with 5/8" steel tubing - and all TR4s should have them! Regards, Carl (Sereda) '63 TR4 since '74 Carl Sereda fails to mention that he is responsible for the replicated generic panel offered by Moss. Based on dimensions and information supplied by Carl and another enthusiast, we decided to make 50, and it didnt make any difference if it lost money. We did it because we could and we were being encouraged to do so.. The basic dimensions and angles are precisely the same as OEM. We sold the initial 50 and have had several runs since then. Joe Alexander A. R. E. 645 1st Street Jesup, Iowa 50648 319.464.4711 (cell) n197tr4 at cs.com From keithstewart at execulink.com Tue Jan 15 18:07:37 2013 From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2013 20:07:37 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR Radio/Console Bracket Responses In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8515177B-0185-4943-8E19-8A93EB6AB57E@execulink.com> A summary of what listers had to say. The SPC says there were two different brackets with a change at 8379CT/8380CT. One lister says there were three different brackets (62, 63, 64) and he has all three. The third one being similar to the second but with different cut-outs for the knobs. Some of those were vinyl and some were wrinkle finish. One lister says the TRA judging guideline claims they were black wrinkle finish. Two listers indicate they have disassembled numerous TR4s and they were all black wrinkle finish. Specific examples from listers were: Black Wrinkle Finish 2 64/65 1 64 1 63/64 2 62 Black Vinyl (glued vinyl material, not vinyl covered foam as in TR4As) 1 62 1 (unknown year or commission #) 1 64 My conclusions: both vinyl and wrinkle finish were used. I think perhaps the vinyl was used early and the wrinkle finish later but am surprised at the two 62s with wrinkle finish and the one 64 with vinyl. Thanks to all those original owners who replied. Keith R. Stewart 75 Camden Road London, Ontario N5X 2K2 Home: (519) 660-1916 E-Mail: keithstewart at execulink.com From pethier at comcast.net Tue Jan 15 22:04:54 2013 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2013 05:04:54 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] charging issue In-Reply-To: <94C04313B6D34927A55543EDFB7D5223@Datsun> Message-ID: <1159767607.765487.1358312694634.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> APT did the tach on my Europa. Rock-solid. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier at comcast.net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica http://www.mnautox.com http://www.mntriumphs.org ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Dave" > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2013 12:44:29 PM > Subject: Re: [TR] charging issue > I believe wilton also takes the old analog devices and puts in a > digital > interior. unless you open them you can't tell the difference. I have > heard > may people extol their praises > > -----Original Message----- > From: Randall > Sent: Monday, January 14, 2013 10:44 PM > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] charging issue > > > Thanks! I heard somewhere about a guy (possibly in New > > Hampshire) who refurbishes these regulators with solid-state > > hardware. Anyone know more about this? > > I believe that would be Wilton Auto Electric, in Wilton, NH. > http://www.wiltonae.com/products/index.aspx > > No personal experience, but I've heard from several happy customers. > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net From malcolm at ipatch.ca Tue Jan 15 23:49:55 2013 From: malcolm at ipatch.ca (Malcolm) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2013 22:49:55 -0800 Subject: [TR] Carb rebuild / reaming Message-ID: Hi List, Finally got the TR4 started, so it could do the 500 foot drive from street parking to get it inside the shop. Now the work begins! Can anyone recommend a place to have my carbs rebuilt and rebushed? I have SU H6 AUC768 and they are missing a few original parts (like the AUC768 tag!) that I would like to replace. The shafts are leaking and I'd rather send them off than fiddle with them myself. Thanks! -Malcolm From emanteno at comcast.net Wed Jan 16 04:46:19 2013 From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2013 05:46:19 -0600 Subject: [TR] Carb rebuild / reaming In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On Wed, Jan 16, 2013 at 12:49 AM, Malcolm wrote: > Hi List, > > Finally got the TR4 started, so it could do the 500 foot drive from street > parking to get it inside the shop. Now the work begins! > > Can anyone recommend a place to have my carbs rebuilt and rebushed? I have > SU H6 AUC768 and they are missing a few original parts (like the AUC768 > tag!) that I would like to replace. The shafts are leaking and I'd rather > send them off than fiddle with them myself. > joecurtoinc.com NFI Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From thenicholls at verizon.net Wed Jan 16 05:18:54 2013 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2013 06:18:54 -0600 (CST) Subject: [TR] Carb rebuild / reaming Message-ID: <16485419.347480.1358338735001.JavaMail.root@vznit170132> Paltech tech - www.paltech1.com Jeff does great work. Craig 72 tr6 On 01/16/13, Irv Korey wrote: On Wed, Jan 16, 2013 at 12:49 AM, Malcolm wrote: > Hi List, > > Finally got the TR4 started, so it could do the 500 foot drive from street > parking to get it inside the shop. Now the work begins! > > Can anyone recommend a place to have my carbs rebuilt and rebushed? I have > SU H6 AUC768 and they are missing a few original parts (like the AUC768 > tag!) that I would like to replace. The shafts are leaking and I'd rather > send them off than fiddle with them myself. > joecurtoinc.com NFI Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net From guy at genfiniti.com Wed Jan 16 06:53:16 2013 From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2013 07:53:16 -0600 Subject: [TR] Carb rebuild / reaming In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <07BF8861-B1E3-45D2-8746-42F5DDB938B9@genfiniti.com> I sent my HS6's to Paltech. Very happy with his work. On Jan 16, 2013, at 12:49 AM, Malcolm wrote: > Hi List, > > Finally got the TR4 started, so it could do the 500 foot drive from street > parking to get it inside the shop. Now the work begins! > > Can anyone recommend a place to have my carbs rebuilt and rebushed? I have > SU H6 AUC768 and they are missing a few original parts (like the AUC768 > tag!) that I would like to replace. The shafts are leaking and I'd rather > send them off than fiddle with them myself. > > Thanks! > > -Malcolm > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/guy at genfiniti.com From spook01 at comcast.net Wed Jan 16 08:53:18 2013 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2013 09:53:18 -0600 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Carb_rebuild_/_reaming?= Message-ID: Joe Curto. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Irv Korey" To: "Malcolm" Cc: Subject: [TR] Carb rebuild / reaming Date: Wed, Jan 16, 2013 05:46 On Wed, Jan 16, 2013 at 12:49 AM, Malcolm wrote: > Hi List, > > Finally got the TR4 started, so it could do the 500 foot drive from street > parking to get it inside the shop. Now the work begins! > > Can anyone recommend a place to have my carbs rebuilt and rebushed? I have > SU H6 AUC768 and they are missing a few original parts (like the AUC768 > tag!) that I would like to replace. The shafts are leaking and I'd rather > send them off than fiddle with them myself. > joecurtoinc.com NFI Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From wbeech at flash.net Wed Jan 16 09:27:39 2013 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2013 10:27:39 -0600 Subject: [TR] Carb rebuild / reaming In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <08B06CF929934BDE96DCCEEE8BB5C1C3@bboffice> I would recommend Joe C as well, NFI. BTW, AUC768 is an older SU that was not used after the 1958 TR3. The main tell is the fuel connections on the float bowls. Do you have a 'banjo' connector for your fuel line attachment (2-way on the front and 1-way on the rear)? OR, are the connections made directly into the lid of the bowl? Depending on your commission number, the correct carb for your car might be an HS6. Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby" '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab) www.triumphowners.com/1566 '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" "If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow" M.Andretti -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Malcolm Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2013 12:50 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Carb rebuild / reaming Hi List, Finally got the TR4 started, so it could do the 500 foot drive from street parking to get it inside the shop. Now the work begins! Can anyone recommend a place to have my carbs rebuilt and rebushed? I have SU H6 AUC768 and they are missing a few original parts (like the AUC768 tag!) that I would like to replace. The shafts are leaking and I'd rather send them off than fiddle with them myself. Thanks! -Malcolm ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Wed Jan 16 09:28:58 2013 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2013 08:28:58 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Carb rebuild / reaming In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1358353738.51704.YahooMailNeo@web120004.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Malcolm i have just worked on this 2 weeks ago myself. what i found with my carbs was the existing bushings where only ever so slightly out of tolerance. like 0.0015 to 0.002. i found my shafts however where as much as 0.015 under size at the bushing. i simply replaced the shafts and have my idle down to where it will stall if i wind the screws all the way out. your results may vary. Frank From: Malcolm To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2013 10:49 PM Subject: [TR] Carb rebuild / reaming Hi List, Finally got the TR4 started, so it could do the 500 foot drive from street parking to get it inside the shop. Now the work begins! Can anyone recommend a place to have my carbs rebuilt and rebushed? I have SU H6 AUC768 and they are missing a few original parts (like the AUC768 tag!) that I would like to replace. The shafts are leaking and I'd rather send them off than fiddle with them myself. Thanks! -Malcolm ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From Chip19474 at aol.com Wed Jan 16 11:00:42 2013 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2013 13:00:42 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Carb rebuild / reaming Message-ID: <759e4.2c3d29a7.3e2844ca@aol.com> Joe Curto! In a message dated 1/16/2013 1:50:34 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, malcolm at ipatch.ca writes: Hi List, Finally got the TR4 started, so it could do the 500 foot drive from street parking to get it inside the shop. Now the work begins! Can anyone recommend a place to have my carbs rebuilt and rebushed? I have SU H6 AUC768 and they are missing a few original parts (like the AUC768 tag!) that I would like to replace. The shafts are leaking and I'd rather send them off than fiddle with them myself. Thanks! -Malcolm ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/chip19474 at aol.com From dave at ranteer.com Wed Jan 16 12:09:13 2013 From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2013 13:09:13 -0600 Subject: [TR] Carb rebuild / reaming In-Reply-To: <07BF8861-B1E3-45D2-8746-42F5DDB938B9@genfiniti.com> References: <07BF8861-B1E3-45D2-8746-42F5DDB938B9@genfiniti.com> Message-ID: <92F0DD0C326E4BE0872E6CC1F6D2308C@Datsun> paltech will have your carbs looking like jewelry. I have had two sets done there. -----Original Message----- From: G.D. Huggins Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2013 7:53 AM To: Malcolm Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Carb rebuild / reaming I sent my HS6's to Paltech. Very happy with his work. On Jan 16, 2013, at 12:49 AM, Malcolm wrote: > Hi List, > > Finally got the TR4 started, so it could do the 500 foot drive from street > parking to get it inside the shop. Now the work begins! > > Can anyone recommend a place to have my carbs rebuilt and rebushed? I > have > SU H6 AUC768 and they are missing a few original parts (like the AUC768 > tag!) that I would like to replace. The shafts are leaking and I'd rather > send them off than fiddle with them myself. > > Thanks! > > -Malcolm From auprichard at uprichard.net Wed Jan 16 14:49:45 2013 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2013 16:49:45 -0500 Subject: [TR] Non-synchro gearbox Message-ID: <018f01cdf433$69572280$3c056780$@uprichard.net> My previous TR3s both had all-synchro gearboxes. The small-mouth, obviously, does not. I am putting a replacement tunnel in the car and am realizing I may have to cut a hole for the dipstick, since I don't see a level plug on the side, as the previous gearboxes had. Any alternative to an ugly big hole in the tunnel? Andrew Uprichard From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jan 16 15:04:53 2013 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2013 17:04:53 -0500 Subject: [TR] Non-synchro gearbox In-Reply-To: <018f01cdf433$69572280$3c056780$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <20130116220453.RKA9M.3787.root@cdptpa-web19-z01> ---- Andrew Uprichard wrote: > I am putting a replacement tunnel in the car and am realizing I may have to > cut a hole for the dipstick, since I don't see a level plug on the side, as > the previous gearboxes had. Any alternative to an ugly big hole in the > tunnel? 1) Cut a nice, clean hole rather than an ugly one 2) Install a later gearbox (the 3 synchro boxes after TS50,000 had a plug on the side). 3) Add a plug in the side. #1 would actually be my choice, as I really like having the dipstick. In fact, the TR6 gearbox in my TR3 has a dipstick installed. Randall From yellowtr at adelphia.net Wed Jan 16 15:18:10 2013 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2013 17:18:10 -0500 Subject: [TR] Non-synchro gearbox In-Reply-To: <018f01cdf433$69572280$3c056780$@uprichard.net> References: <018f01cdf433$69572280$3c056780$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <50F72722.4080203@adelphia.net> Andrew, The tunnel and transmission I am using on my 58 are from a 57 SM and I really like the dipstick as opposed to the side fill on my 4 and 6. The snaps on the carpet make it easy to access to check/ and fill. I believe TRF provides the rubber grommet. I sort of wish all Triumphs retained this setup. I had some old original carpet with a snapped flap for the dipstick. But the current carpet sets seem to have left it out. Also, the hole is smaller than the one used to access the grease zerk behind the shifter. Bob On 01/16/2013 04:49 PM, Andrew Uprichard wrote: > My previous TR3s both had all-synchro gearboxes. The small-mouth, > obviously, does not. > > > > I am putting a replacement tunnel in the car and am realizing I may have to > cut a hole for the dipstick, since I don't see a level plug on the side, as > the previous gearboxes had. Any alternative to an ugly big hole in the > tunnel? > > Andrew Uprichard From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Wed Jan 16 15:23:30 2013 From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2013 17:23:30 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Non-synchro gearbox Message-ID: <35d7f.2a1c979c.3e288262@aol.com> I agree; I like the dipstick. The hole is small (small enough for me ("big fingers") to struggle a bit to get the dipstick out..., not ugly or a problem, covered by the tunnel carpet and dead easy to check before going out on a run. No need to get under the car. Tim TS22930LO In a message dated 16/01/2013 5:07:16 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: ---- Andrew Uprichard wrote: > I am putting a replacement tunnel in the car and am realizing I may have to > cut a hole for the dipstick, since I don't see a level plug on the side, as > the previous gearboxes had. Any alternative to an ugly big hole in the > tunnel? 1) Cut a nice, clean hole rather than an ugly one 2) Install a later gearbox (the 3 synchro boxes after TS50,000 had a plug on the side). 3) Add a plug in the side. #1 would actually be my choice, as I really like having the dipstick. In fact, the TR6 gearbox in my TR3 has a dipstick installed. Randall ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/kingscreektrees at aol.com From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk Wed Jan 16 15:56:54 2013 From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2013 22:56:54 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] Non-synchro gearbox In-Reply-To: <50F72722.4080203@adelphia.net> References: <018f01cdf433$69572280$3c056780$@uprichard.net> <50F72722.4080203@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <1358377014.84879.YahooMailNeo@web171901.mail.ir2.yahoo.com> Bob Labuz wrote: I also sort of wish Triumphs retained many other features that were abandoned on purely cost grounds - like: being able to drain rear axles instead of assuring the customer "the oil was good for life." Removing flitch panels in critical places that accelerated rust Fitting smaller radiators Fitting inadequate sized front brakes on FWD saloons, then fitting a booster to improve braking Using inferior quality alloys on the Slant 4 and Stag engines - until reliability issues forced the upgrade as specified by Engineering the list is a long one. I wish I could remember some of the rest of it :) Jonmac From wbeech at flash.net Wed Jan 16 16:49:40 2013 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2013 17:49:40 -0600 Subject: [TR] Non-synchro gearbox In-Reply-To: <018f01cdf433$69572280$3c056780$@uprichard.net> References: <018f01cdf433$69572280$3c056780$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <7AD7EED7231F403188717711294946E8@bboffice> Cut the 2.25" hole and order a grommet for it, Moss 680-840/TRF 605602, on my '58 the u-joint inspection and dip stick holes are the same. You'll be glad you did, sure makes life easier. Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby" '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab) www.triumphowners.com/1566 '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" "If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow" M.Andretti -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2013 3:50 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Non-synchro gearbox My previous TR3s both had all-synchro gearboxes. The small-mouth, obviously, does not. I am putting a replacement tunnel in the car and am realizing I may have to cut a hole for the dipstick, since I don't see a level plug on the side, as the previous gearboxes had. Any alternative to an ugly big hole in the tunnel? Andrew Uprichard ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jan 16 17:50:57 2013 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2013 0:50:57 +0000 Subject: [TR] Non-synchro gearbox In-Reply-To: <50F72722.4080203@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <20130117005057.VGB24.4536.root@cdptpa-web19-z01> ---- Bob Labuz wrote: > Also, the hole is smaller than the one used to access the grease zerk > behind the shifter. Are you sure? I haven't checked recently, but I thought they were the same size. Both Moss & TRF list the same plug for both of them. Randall From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Wed Jan 16 18:03:53 2013 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2013 20:03:53 -0500 Subject: [TR] Koni Shock Dilema Message-ID: <380-2201314171353695@M2W110.mail2web.com> I was making a CV_Joint conversion on my GT6+ rear ended Spitfire, to replace the TR6 axle setup I have in there now, when I noticed that the rear shocks are different. (funny that I never noticed before...) These have been on the car for probably 25 years or more, and I was painting them to spruce them up a bit, but I digress. What I noticed was that the upper welded cover on the drivers side was shorter (you can see about an inch of shaft when fully extended). The other side when fully extended has no visible shaft at all I.E. the cover completely covers the lower tube (which seems better in that nothing could fly up and damage the shaft or seals). They are both Konis, and the travel fully extended is the same (haven't checked the fully compressed condition). They were purchased new as a set, front and rear,(from one of the big three) Any ideas...I don't think that the one one the drivers side could be a spitfire, since I believe that the travel is not the same and I would think that they would be shorter but I don't have anything to check it with - fully extended they measure 13 and 13/16ths the lower tube is 7 inches on all the shocks, the upper tube on the long one is around 5 inches while the tube on the "short "one is 4 inches Both of the ones on my 70 GT6+ are like the long one... -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web.com  Enhanced email for the mobile individual based on Microsoft. Exchange - http://link.mail2web.com/Personal/EnhancedEmail From yellowtr at adelphia.net Thu Jan 17 05:34:03 2013 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2013 07:34:03 -0500 Subject: [TR] Non-synchro gearbox In-Reply-To: <20130117005057.VGB24.4536.root@cdptpa-web19-z01> References: <20130117005057.VGB24.4536.root@cdptpa-web19-z01> Message-ID: <50F7EFBB.30700@adelphia.net> Randall, I always thought it was, maybe because it was under the battery and I could not see it directly. I guess this spring when I get the 3 out and check the oil etc. I will take a look. ANyway, I am happy to have the dipstick and access. Bob On 01/16/2013 07:50 PM, Randall wrote: > ---- Bob Labuz wrote: > >> Also, the hole is smaller than the one used to access the grease zerk >> behind the shifter. > Are you sure? I haven't checked recently, but I thought they were the same size. Both Moss & TRF list the same plug for both of them. > > Randall From auprichard at uprichard.net Thu Jan 17 12:46:32 2013 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2013 14:46:32 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 glove box Message-ID: <01db01cdf4eb$5abb03f0$10310bd0$@uprichard.net> Am I right in thinking the glove box is held in place at the bottom with two bolts and at the rear by a bracket which attaches to the right hand dash support? And nothing else? And if anyone has a spare said bracket, please contact me off-line. Thanks! Andrew Uprichard From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Thu Jan 17 12:55:16 2013 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2013 11:55:16 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] TR3 glove box In-Reply-To: <01db01cdf4eb$5abb03f0$10310bd0$@uprichard.net> References: <01db01cdf4eb$5abb03f0$10310bd0$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <1358452516.28577.YahooMailNeo@web120003.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> as i recall there are a couple of screws at the top also. self tapers into quick clips. the bracket at the back on my TR3 was an old fashioned angle clip. Frank From: Andrew Uprichard To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2013 11:46 AM Subject: [TR] TR3 glove box Am I right in thinking the glove box is held in place at the bottom with two bolts and at the rear by a bracket which attaches to the right hand dash support? And nothing else? And if anyone has a spare said bracket, please contact me off-line. Thanks! Andrew Uprichard ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From auprichard at uprichard.net Thu Jan 17 12:59:54 2013 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2013 14:59:54 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 glove box In-Reply-To: <1358452516.28577.YahooMailNeo@web120003.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <01db01cdf4eb$5abb03f0$10310bd0$@uprichard.net> <1358452516.28577.YahooMailNeo@web120003.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <01e601cdf4ed$38ad9960$aa08cc20$@uprichard.net> Ah - I wondered what those broken-off things were.... Thanks! From: Frank Fisher [mailto:yellowtr3 at yahoo.com] Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2013 2:55 PM To: Andrew Uprichard; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 glove box as i recall there are a couple of screws at the top also. self tapers into quick clips. the bracket at the back on my TR3 was an old fashioned angle clip. Frank From: Andrew Uprichard To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2013 11:46 AM Subject: [TR] TR3 glove box Am I right in thinking the glove box is held in place at the bottom with two bolts and at the rear by a bracket which attaches to the right hand dash support? And nothing else? And if anyone has a spare said bracket, please contact me off-line. Thanks! Andrew Uprichard ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From agraham at execulink.com Thu Jan 17 14:25:33 2013 From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2013 16:25:33 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 hood hinges Message-ID: <50F86C4D.6070803@execulink.com> Hello List: Re-installing my newly painted hood hinges on the '2 and I didn't remember to mark the hinges right or left. They appear to slightly "toe in" or "toe out" with respect to the longer hood part of the hinge. What is the correct orientation to avoid having the hinge bind and break when installed? I would like to bolt up the hood part of the hinge to make installation easier. Does the hood part of the hinge orient "toe out" with respect to the cowl mount or is it the other way 'round? Make sense? Thanks for any help with this one. Angelo Graham From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Jan 17 14:37:11 2013 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2013 16:37:11 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] TR2/3 hood hinges Message-ID: <3b67e.74223712.3e29c907@cs.com> The hinge pins must be lined up or else they will bind when you open the bonnet. You can trial mount them to the bonnet and swing them and see if they stay in the same plane or if they diverge. If they diverge swap sides. Dave In a message dated 1/17/2013 3:34:04 PM Central Standard Time, agraham at execulink.com writes: > Hello List: > Re-installing my newly painted hood hinges on the '2 and I didn't > remember to mark the hinges right or left. They appear to slightly "toe > in" or "toe out" with respect to the longer hood part of the hinge. What > is the correct orientation to avoid having the hinge bind and break when > installed? > I would like to bolt up the hood part of the hinge to make installation > easier. > Does the hood part of the hinge orient "toe out" with respect to the > cowl mount or is it the other way 'round? Make sense? > Thanks for any help with this one. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jan 17 16:29:44 2013 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2013 18:29:44 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 hood hinges In-Reply-To: <50F86C4D.6070803@execulink.com> Message-ID: <20130117232944.7UTW8.9195.root@cdptpa-web19-z01> ---- Angelo Graham wrote: > Does the hood part of the hinge orient "toe out" with respect to the > cowl mount or is it the other way 'round? Make sense? The entire hinge should fit straight and parallel. If you look at the sides of the hinge, the distance from the mounting surface to the hinge pin is larger on one side. That side goes nearest the wing. Leave the nuts just slightly more than finger tight while you try them the first time, so you can move things around to fit. After rather more broken hinges that I care to recall, I also prefer to remove the studs and run a bottoming tap into the threads; then use Loctite when inserting the studs. Some of the new hinges aren't tapped all the way to the bottom, which leaves the joint weak. I've also gotten several sets where the stud was too long and had to be trimmed to length. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jan 17 16:39:53 2013 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2013 18:39:53 -0500 Subject: [TR] Carb rebuild / reaming In-Reply-To: <08B06CF929934BDE96DCCEEE8BB5C1C3@bboffice> Message-ID: <20130117233953.KX3XH.9236.root@cdptpa-web19-z01> ---- Wbeech wrote: > Depending on your commission number, the correct carb for your car might be > an HS6. I believe the HS6 was only used on TR4A, not TR4. Even early TR4A used ZS carbs. Randall From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Thu Jan 17 16:43:52 2013 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2013 15:43:52 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] TR2/3 hood hinges In-Reply-To: <20130117232944.7UTW8.9195.root@cdptpa-web19-z01> References: <50F86C4D.6070803@execulink.com> <20130117232944.7UTW8.9195.root@cdptpa-web19-z01> Message-ID: <1358466232.23397.YahooMailNeo@web120001.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> and they strip out the threads really easy From: Randall To: triumphs at autox.team.net; Angelo Graham Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2013 3:29 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 hood hinges ---- Angelo Graham wrote: > Does the hood part of the hinge orient "toe out" with respect to the > cowl mount or is it the other way 'round? Make sense? The entire hinge should fit straight and parallel. If you look at the sides of the hinge, the distance from the mounting surface to the hinge pin is larger on one side. That side goes nearest the wing. Leave the nuts just slightly more than finger tight while you try them the first time, so you can move things around to fit. After rather more broken hinges that I care to recall, I also prefer to remove the studs and run a bottoming tap into the threads; then use Loctite when inserting the studs. Some of the new hinges aren't tapped all the way to the bottom, which leaves the joint weak. I've also gotten several sets where the stud was too long and had to be trimmed to length. Randall ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Thu Jan 17 17:03:42 2013 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2013 19:03:42 -0500 Subject: [TR] Carb rebuild / reaming In-Reply-To: <20130117233953.KX3XH.9236.root@cdptpa-web19-z01> References: <20130117233953.KX3XH.9236.root@cdptpa-web19-z01> Message-ID: <5E702C52F2294BF7AE655FCDEBC64C76@UserTHINK> I agree, SU's on TR4's were H6's while SU's on 4A's were HS6. My May built 66 TR4A has HS6 SU's. JVV -----Original Message----- From: Randall Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2013 6:39 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Carb rebuild / reaming ---- Wbeech wrote: > Depending on your commission number, the correct carb for your car might > be > an HS6. I believe the HS6 was only used on TR4A, not TR4. Even early TR4A used ZS carbs. Randall From auprichard at uprichard.net Thu Jan 17 20:00:05 2013 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2013 22:00:05 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 hood hinges In-Reply-To: <20130117232944.7UTW8.9195.root@cdptpa-web19-z01> References: <50F86C4D.6070803@execulink.com> <20130117232944.7UTW8.9195.root@cdptpa-web19-z01> Message-ID: <021b01cdf527$ebcca740$c365f5c0$@uprichard.net> Particularly the trunk/boot hinges: one of the studs will interfere with the trunk rubber if not cut back. Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2013 6:30 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; Angelo Graham Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 hood hinges ---- Angelo Graham wrote: > Does the hood part of the hinge orient "toe out" with respect to the > cowl mount or is it the other way 'round? Make sense? The entire hinge should fit straight and parallel. If you look at the sides of the hinge, the distance from the mounting surface to the hinge pin is larger on one side. That side goes nearest the wing. Leave the nuts just slightly more than finger tight while you try them the first time, so you can move things around to fit. After rather more broken hinges that I care to recall, I also prefer to remove the studs and run a bottoming tap into the threads; then use Loctite when inserting the studs. Some of the new hinges aren't tapped all the way to the bottom, which leaves the joint weak. I've also gotten several sets where the stud was too long and had to be trimmed to length. Randall ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Thu Jan 17 20:51:37 2013 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2013 22:51:37 -0500 Subject: [TR] All this talk about Carbs -- TR2 engine rebuild time - how big can I go with the HS4's Message-ID: The TR2 has been alot of fun. Wiring is straight, paint is good, We drove over 2500 miles this summer. But.... More smoke blows out of the valve cover and engine vent than out the exhaust.... It's time to rebuild or at least re-ring this winter. I've never been into the motor past a valve job.. so rebuild is more likely. If I have to do a major rebuild - do you think the HS4's adequately support 86mm pistons and liners? Car runs great as is -- but a little more cubic inches never hurts..... From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jan 17 21:18:47 2013 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2013 20:18:47 -0800 Subject: [TR] All this talk about Carbs -- TR2 engine rebuild time - how big can I go with the HS4's In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1A.C7.01431.E1DC8F05@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> > If I have to do a major rebuild - do you think the HS4's > adequately support > 86mm pistons and liners? Car runs great as is -- but a > little more cubic > inches never hurts..... Should work out just fine, IMO. The smaller carbs may cost you a bit of power at the extreme top of the rpm range, but it won't be any worse than it is now IMO. And the extra displacement should give you some extra mid-range torque, which is more useful on the street anyway. Randall From auprichard at uprichard.net Fri Jan 18 06:57:40 2013 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2013 08:57:40 -0500 Subject: [TR] All this talk about Carbs -- TR2 engine rebuild time - how big can I go with the HS4's In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <022a01cdf583$c8956fd0$59c04f70$@uprichard.net> Why stop at 86mm? -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Simo Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2013 10:52 PM To: list Triumph Subject: [TR] All this talk about Carbs -- TR2 engine rebuild time - how big can I go with the HS4's The TR2 has been alot of fun. Wiring is straight, paint is good, We drove over 2500 miles this summer. But.... More smoke blows out of the valve cover and engine vent than out the exhaust.... It's time to rebuild or at least re-ring this winter. I've never been into the motor past a valve job.. so rebuild is more likely. If I have to do a major rebuild - do you think the HS4's adequately support 86mm pistons and liners? Car runs great as is -- but a little more cubic inches never hurts..... ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Fri Jan 18 12:16:23 2013 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2013 11:16:23 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Bill's Shelves Message-ID: <1358536583.59442.YahooMailNeo@web180905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> I just finished a thing like a giant chest of drawers. Home Depot has "Sterite" clear plastic boxes with colored snap on lids for sale for $6.88 for a pack of 6. Each drawer is 8" wide by 6" high by 12" deep. I bought 48 of them and modified a free bookcase I got to hold them all on the shelves. The bookcase is 3 feet wide by 6 feet high. A 3 X 5 card fits in the front of the box to label what is inside. There is also room for about 8 more boxes on the top (double stacked). So, I have a giant chest of drawers for all of my little parts and obscure tools for about $50. I am getting organized for 2013! I've wanted something like for decades. If anyone is interested in a photo, email me and I'll send you a photo. I don't know how to post a photo to the list. -Bill in Tehachapi From pethier at comcast.net Fri Jan 18 12:27:41 2013 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2013 19:27:41 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Bill's Shelves In-Reply-To: <1358536583.59442.YahooMailNeo@web180905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <169610644.38632.1358537261927.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> flickr.com is free and easy Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier at comcast.net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica http://www.mnautox.com http://www.mntriumphs.org ----- Original Message ----- > From: "William Brewer" > To: "Triumphs" > Sent: Friday, January 18, 2013 1:16:23 PM > Subject: [TR] Bill's Shelves > I just finished a thing like a giant chest of drawers. Home Depot has > "Sterite" clear plastic boxes with colored snap on lids for sale for > $6.88 for > a pack of 6. Each drawer is 8" wide by 6" high by 12" deep. I bought > 48 of > them and modified a free bookcase I got to hold them all on the > shelves. The > bookcase is 3 feet wide by 6 feet high. A 3 X 5 card fits in the front > of the > box to label what is inside. There is also room for about 8 more boxes > on the > top (double stacked). > So, I have a giant chest of drawers for all of my > little parts and obscure tools for about $50. > I am getting organized for > 2013! I've wanted something like for decades. > > If anyone is interested in > a photo, email me and I'll send you a photo. I don't know how to post > a photo > to the list. > > -Bill in Tehachapi > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Fri Jan 18 12:42:46 2013 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2013 11:42:46 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Bill's Shelves In-Reply-To: <1358536583.59442.YahooMailNeo@web180905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1358536583.59442.YahooMailNeo@web180905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1358538166.41920.YahooMailNeo@web120002.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> i suppose you'll be buying cars with wind up windows next? Frank From: William Brewer To: Triumphs Sent: Friday, January 18, 2013 11:16 AM Subject: [TR] Bill's Shelves I just finished a thing like a giant chest of drawers. Home Depot has "Sterite" clear plastic boxes with colored snap on lids for sale for $6.88 for a pack of 6. Each drawer is 8" wide by 6" high by 12" deep. I bought 48 of them and modified a free bookcase I got to hold them all on the shelves. The bookcase is 3 feet wide by 6 feet high. A 3 X 5 card fits in the front of the box to label what is inside. There is also room for about 8 more boxes on the top (double stacked). So, I have a giant chest of drawers for all of my little parts and obscure tools for about $50. I am getting organized for 2013! I've wanted something like for decades. If anyone is interested in a photo, email me and I'll send you a photo. I don't know how to post a photo to the list. -Bill in Tehachapi ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From mark at bradakis.com Fri Jan 18 13:02:47 2013 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2013 13:02:47 -0700 Subject: [TR] Bill's Shelves In-Reply-To: <1358536583.59442.YahooMailNeo@web180905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1358536583.59442.YahooMailNeo@web180905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <50F9AA67.3020107@bradakis.com> William Brewer wrote: > If anyone is interested in > a photo, email me and I'll send you a photo. I don't know how to post a photo > to the list. > > That reminds me - I really need to get the forums back on the air. A good indoor project for a cold weekend. mjb. From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Fri Jan 18 17:44:06 2013 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2013 16:44:06 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Bill's Shelves Message-ID: <1358556246.53981.YahooMailNeo@web180906.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Here is a link to the shelves that I made. http://www.flickr.com/photos/39699927 at N08/ -Bill in Tehachapi From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Fri Jan 18 20:12:53 2013 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2013 19:12:53 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] side curtain build Message-ID: <1358565173.98112.YahooMailNeo@web120602.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> I'm rebuilding my tr-3 side curtains and things are going well. However I'm having a problem fitting the forward solid window. It's very thin plexiglass and the only information I've been able to find simply says the front plexi window is sewn in with the vinyl trim. Does a person drill small holes through the plexiglass to pull the thread through? Is the thread then looped around the forward vertical frame to pull it tight? The forward vertical frame piece is also very thin and I'm wondering how to glue vinyl to that as well as attach the plexiglass. Just wondering is anyone has re-built they're side screens themselves and how they handled this. thanks gary n. From gpr at key-men.com Sat Jan 19 04:33:31 2013 From: gpr at key-men.com (George Richardson) Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2013 06:33:31 -0500 Subject: [TR] side curtain build In-Reply-To: <1358565173.98112.YahooMailNeo@web120602.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1358565173.98112.YahooMailNeo@web120602.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <50FA848B.709@key-men.com> I used a big old Singer industrial sewing machine on the plastic and it just punched through. However, I did do some touchup on the ends by using a sewing awl and heating the needle so that it melted through the plastic. George Richardson Key Men - Keys for Classics www.key-men.com On 1/18/2013 10:12 PM, Gary Nafziger wrote: > I'm rebuilding my tr-3 side curtains and things are going well. However I'm > having a problem fitting the forward solid window. It's very thin plexiglass > and the only information I've been able to find simply says the front plexi > window is sewn in with the vinyl trim. > Does a person drill small holes through > the plexiglass to pull the thread through? Is the thread then looped around > the forward vertical frame to pull it tight? The forward vertical frame piece > is also very thin and I'm wondering how to glue vinyl to that as well as > attach the plexiglass. > > > Just wondering is anyone has re-built they're side > screens themselves and how they handled this. > > thanks > > gary n. > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/gpr at key-men.com From kinderlehrer at comcast.net Sat Jan 19 12:22:43 2013 From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer) Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2013 11:22:43 -0800 Subject: [TR] side curtain build In-Reply-To: <50FA848B.709@key-men.com> References: <1358565173.98112.YahooMailNeo@web120602.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <50FA848B.709@key-men.com> Message-ID: <002601cdf67a$5b277d10$11767730$@net> My approach was bit different - I used the router attachment on my Dremel to cut a slot in the plastic, leaving sufficient material at the top and bottom. I then used a sewing awl to sew through the side curtain material together through and for the length of the slot. Worked for me. Bob -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of George Richardson Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2013 3:34 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] side curtain build I used a big old Singer industrial sewing machine on the plastic and it just punched through. However, I did do some touchup on the ends by using a sewing awl and heating the needle so that it melted through the plastic. George Richardson Key Men - Keys for Classics www.key-men.com On 1/18/2013 10:12 PM, Gary Nafziger wrote: > I'm rebuilding my tr-3 side curtains and things are going well. > However I'm having a problem fitting the forward solid window. It's > very thin plexiglass and the only information I've been able to find > simply says the front plexi window is sewn in with the vinyl trim. > Does a person drill small holes through the plexiglass to pull the > thread through? Is the thread then looped around the forward vertical > frame to pull it tight? The forward vertical frame piece is also very > thin and I'm wondering how to glue vinyl to that as well as attach the > plexiglass. > > > Just wondering is anyone has re-built they're side screens themselves > and how they handled this. > > thanks > > gary n. From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Jan 20 16:21:11 2013 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob) Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2013 18:21:11 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 vs TR6 Gas Tank Message-ID: I've been working with Boyd Welding (http://www.boydwelding.com/) on a 14 - 15-ish gallon aluminum fuel tank for the TR6 and got to wondering if it would also fit the TR4. The stock tanks look the same but the TR4 tank is listed as unavailable. Does anyone know? BTW.... the aluminum tank price will be $475 which is quite a bit cheaper than the stock steel replacement tank. I trying to negotiate a one time group purchase so if you're interested email me at75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From wbeech at flash.net Sun Jan 20 16:43:25 2013 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2013 17:43:25 -0600 Subject: [TR] Attaching aTR3A bow cover. In-Reply-To: References: <18C7F3F1F1004BA0AEE0312C76D9BB55@bboffice> Message-ID: Geo, Trying to install my TRF hoodstick cover and don't seem to be able to get it right. I believe I got the two inside pegs correct based on the LTD snaps that were already installed. But, while I put the inner pegs as high as I could without interference from the body, they still seem too low and conflict with the rear panel when re-installed. I remembered you had posted some pictures, but these links seem to no longer be working. Do you have new links? Much appreciated, Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby" '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab) www.triumphowners.com/1566 '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" "If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow" M.Andretti -----Original Message----- From: Geo Hahn [mailto:ahwahneetr at gmail.com] Sent: Sunday, December 05, 2010 12:58 PM To: wbeech at flash.net Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Attaching aTR3A bow cover. On 12/4/10, wbeech at flash.net wrote: >> the 'hidden' peg is in an odd spot but works and fits fine. > > ...can you pictorially share this location? Here is where the inny peg is on mine: http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/TR3%20Stick%20Cover%201.JPG To use it the female LTD is installed upside down & inside out: http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/TR3%20Stick%20Cover%202.JPG I almost never undo that fastener since when I use the tonneau I just undo the rest of the stick cover and let it hang down back there. I do use a combination of towels & foam to take up some of the slack in the fitted cover: http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/TR3%20Stick%20Cover%203.JPG Stick cover in place: http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/TR3%20Stick%20Cover%204.JPG Geo From sothornton at aol.com Sun Jan 20 16:46:19 2013 From: sothornton at aol.com (Steve Thornton) Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2013 18:46:19 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Surrey top help needed Message-ID: <8CFC57F7A5CBB97-1C2C-1BECE@webmail-m045.sysops.aol.com> Hello List- I purchased a surrey top for my TR250 this weekend, after a long search for one. It came with the back section and a steel mid section. My questions are- 1. What is the best way to store them when not in use? 2. Do you have to take the convertible top and frame off to install the surrey top? 3. Does anyone have a set of surrey top installation instructions? 4. Does anyone know of a source for the soft top midsection and the frame that goes with it? Many thanks in advance. Steven O. Thornton Attorney at Law 1011 Lehman Avenue Suite 102 Bowling Green, KY 42103 270-781-6630 From skip47 at gbis.com Sun Jan 20 17:04:08 2013 From: skip47 at gbis.com (Skip Gurnee) Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2013 16:04:08 -0800 Subject: [TR] Penetrating oils Message-ID: Ibve been using Kroil for years; NOW they tell me! BEST PENETRATING OILS .... "Machinist's Workshop" recently published information on various penetrating oils. The magazine reports they tested these products for "break out torque" on rusted nuts and bolts. A subjective test was made of popular penetrating oils, with the unit of merit being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" bolt. Average torque load to loosen nut: No Oil used ........................ 516 foot pounds WD-40 ..................... ........ 238 foot pounds PB Blaster ......................... 214 foot pounds Liquid Wrench ....................127 foot pounds Kano Kroil ......................... 106 foot pounds ATF/Acetone mix.................. 53 foot pounds The ATF/Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50/50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch, and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that Liquid Wrench is almost as good as Kroil for 20% of the price. ATF/Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF and lacquer thinner in a 50/50 mix. ATF = Any type of Automatic Transmission Fluid From trguy75 at gmail.com Sun Jan 20 17:14:04 2013 From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen) Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2013 19:14:04 -0500 Subject: [TR] Surrey top help needed In-Reply-To: <8CFC57F7A5CBB97-1C2C-1BECE@webmail-m045.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CFC57F7A5CBB97-1C2C-1BECE@webmail-m045.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <6AF48D2C-7E6F-4B01-A351-C30A3A64FBB5@gmail.com> Congrats. The soft top and frame middle section is available from The Roadster Factory. I plan on installing without the convertible top and I believe they were meant to be installed that way. Other experts may know better. If you are storing the center section, keep someplace very safe and out of traffic. Very easy to damage. Jim Henningsen Ocala, fl 62 TR4 75 Tr6 with new cherry bomb glass pack. Love it! Sent from my iPad On Jan 20, 2013, at 6:46 PM, Steve Thornton wrote: > Hello List- > > > > I purchased a surrey top for my TR250 this weekend, after a long search for > one. It came with the back section and a steel mid section. > > My questions are- > > 1. What is the best way to store them when not in use? > > 2. Do you have to take the convertible top and frame off to install the surrey > top? > > 3. Does anyone have a set of surrey top installation instructions? > > 4. Does anyone know of a source for the soft top midsection and the frame that > goes with it? > > > Many thanks in advance. > > > > > Steven O. Thornton > Attorney at Law > 1011 Lehman Avenue > Suite 102 > Bowling Green, KY 42103 > > > 270-781-6630 > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trguy75 at gmail.com From jodyfkerr at gmail.com Sun Jan 20 17:50:42 2013 From: jodyfkerr at gmail.com (Jody Kerr) Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2013 17:50:42 -0700 Subject: [TR] Penetrating oils In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: We call it Weasel Pee! Please note, if you do make some, put it in a glass container. It will eat anything else. It also separates when sitting, so you'll need to shake it each time you want to use it. Jody On Sun, Jan 20, 2013 at 5:04 PM, Skip Gurnee wrote: > Ib ve been using Kroil for years; NOW they tell me! > > BEST PENETRATING OILS .... > > "Machinist's Workshop" recently published information on various penetrating > oils. The magazine reports they tested these products for "break out torque" > on rusted nuts and bolts. > > A subjective test was made of popular penetrating oils, with the unit of merit > being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" > bolt. > > Average torque load to loosen nut: > > > No Oil used ........................ 516 foot pounds > WD-40 ..................... ........ 238 foot pounds > PB Blaster ......................... 214 foot pounds > Liquid Wrench ....................127 foot pounds > Kano Kroil ......................... 106 foot pounds > ATF/Acetone mix.................. 53 foot pounds > > The ATF/Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50/50 automatic transmission fluid > and acetone. Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any commercial > product in this one particular test. > > Our local machinist group mixed up a batch, and we all now use it with equally > good results. > > Note also that Liquid Wrench is almost as good as Kroil for 20% of the price. > ATF/Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF and lacquer thinner in a > 50/50 mix. > > ATF = Any type of Automatic Transmission Fluid > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jodyfkerr at gmail.com -- http://www.theymightberacing.com/ 1953 Studebaker Champion 1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854) 1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's) 1981 Triumph TR8 1970 MG MGB 1980 Triumph TR7 "Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so." --Douglas Adams From pethier at comcast.net Sun Jan 20 18:35:29 2013 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 01:35:29 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Penetrating oils In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <2081710259.60492.1358732129866.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Jody Kerr" > To: "Skip Gurnee" > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2013 6:50:42 PM > Subject: Re: [TR] Penetrating oils > We call it Weasel Pee! > > Please note, if you do make some, put it in a glass container. It will > eat anything else. Just what I want to use around painted areas of a car. Pass. > It also separates when sitting, so you'll need to > shake it each time you want to use it. > > Jody > > On Sun, Jan 20, 2013 at 5:04 PM, Skip Gurnee wrote: > > Ib ve been using Kroil for years; NOW they tell me! > > > > BEST PENETRATING OILS .... From jodyfkerr at gmail.com Sun Jan 20 18:45:15 2013 From: jodyfkerr at gmail.com (Jody Kerr) Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2013 18:45:15 -0700 Subject: [TR] Penetrating oils In-Reply-To: <2081710259.60492.1358732129866.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <2081710259.60492.1358732129866.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: I generally tend to use it most when tearing down. :) On Sun, Jan 20, 2013 at 6:35 PM, wrote: > > > ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "Jody Kerr" >> To: "Skip Gurnee" >> Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net >> Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2013 6:50:42 PM >> Subject: Re: [TR] Penetrating oils >> We call it Weasel Pee! >> >> Please note, if you do make some, put it in a glass container. It will >> eat anything else. > > Just what I want to use around painted areas of a car. Pass. > > > >> It also separates when sitting, so you'll need to >> shake it each time you want to use it. >> >> Jody >> >> On Sun, Jan 20, 2013 at 5:04 PM, Skip Gurnee wrote: >> > Ib ve been using Kroil for years; NOW they tell me! >> > >> > BEST PENETRATING OILS .... > -- http://www.theymightberacing.com/ 1953 Studebaker Champion 1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854) 1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's) 1981 Triumph TR8 1970 MG MGB 1980 Triumph TR7 "Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so." --Douglas Adams From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Sun Jan 20 19:47:13 2013 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2013 18:47:13 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] thots on side curtains Message-ID: <1358736433.83146.YahooMailNeo@web120604.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> While working with my side curtains I've been impressed by how sloppy the worn ones fit as well as how hard it is to get a good tight fit on re-built ones. It made me wonder about how many brand new tr-3's were daily drivers back then throughout the whole year including winter especially in the midwest. I can't imagine a tr-3 even all buttoned up sitting outside during a midwest winter. Rain mostly comes straight down but blowing snow could sift through the smallest opening and cover the whole inside; then melt. Imagine 3 day white out blizzards with 25-30 mile winds! Anyone have these type of experiences? LOL gary n. From dave at ranteer.com Sun Jan 20 19:50:22 2013 From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave) Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2013 20:50:22 -0600 Subject: [TR] thots on side curtains In-Reply-To: <1358736433.83146.YahooMailNeo@web120604.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1358736433.83146.YahooMailNeo@web120604.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <39E86FA55F0C46F2AAC76BCD23719D79@Datsun> my brother had a tr3; his only car, when he was stationed at some base in massachusetts. we lived in philadelphia. I remember him heading back to the base one winter evening, full winter clothing including ski gloves, inside the car. -----Original Message----- From: Gary Nafziger Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2013 8:47 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] thots on side curtains While working with my side curtains I've been impressed by how sloppy the worn ones fit as well as how hard it is to get a good tight fit on re-built ones. It made me wonder about how many brand new tr-3's were daily drivers back then throughout the whole year including winter especially in the midwest. I can't imagine a tr-3 even all buttoned up sitting outside during a midwest winter. Rain mostly comes straight down but blowing snow could sift through the smallest opening and cover the whole inside; then melt. Imagine 3 day white out blizzards with 25-30 mile winds! Anyone have these type of experiences? LOL From creig555 at live.com Sun Jan 20 20:33:40 2013 From: creig555 at live.com (Creig Houghtaling) Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2013 21:33:40 -0600 Subject: [TR] Leaking proportioning valve on my TR7 Message-ID: I have a TR7 that I have been working on resurrecting. As soon as I get one thing fixed, something else pops up. There is a long story about everything I have been through. But the short story is my current problem is brake fluid leaking from the proportioning valve. I wiped everything off and had my daughter push the brake. Fluid drips formed at the cap end closest to the outer fender. What is the repair for this? Can new proportioning valves be bought? Is there a repair kit? I have parts from several other cars I have parted out. Do I just swap one in and see what happens? Or do different 7's have different proportions? Creig Houghtaling 314-401-7817 Local member of St. Louis Triumph Owners Association From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jan 20 21:20:03 2013 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2013 20:20:03 -0800 Subject: [TR] thots on side curtains In-Reply-To: <1358736433.83146.YahooMailNeo@web120604.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <51.DB.26261.3F1CCF05@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> > Anyone have these type of experiences? Yup. Been there, done that. I also worked second shift at the time. You've never lived until you've tried to push-start a TR3, by yourself, in a parking lot covered with ice! That was when I decided that an alternator was an absolute must-have. (But I did get it started and drove it home.) My boss at the time drove an Opel GT and bragged to me more than once that anything my TR could do, his Opel could do better. So one night when snow was predicted, I invited him back to my place for a beer after work. As predicted, we had about 3" of fresh snow on the ground, and being after midnite the snow plows had not been around yet. Of course I deliberately took the route that led up a steep hill and the TR walked right up it ... Don never did make it to my place and he never said another word about how great his Opel was! -- Randall From wbeech at flash.net Sun Jan 20 21:45:20 2013 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2013 22:45:20 -0600 Subject: [TR] thots on side curtains In-Reply-To: <1358736433.83146.YahooMailNeo@web120604.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1358736433.83146.YahooMailNeo@web120604.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: The PO of my TR3B owned it for over 20 years in New England and it was his daily driver. He told stories of driving to his job at IBM, strict dress code, in a blue suit and tie and how long it took to clean up after he arrived. I had one as a primary driver for a year in Virginia, rainy inside and out, demisters were a joke. Forget the wipers. Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary Nafziger Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2013 8:47 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] thots on side curtains While working with my side curtains I've been impressed by how sloppy the worn ones fit as well as how hard it is to get a good tight fit on re-built ones. It made me wonder about how many brand new tr-3's were daily drivers back then throughout the whole year including winter especially in the midwest. I can't imagine a tr-3 even all buttoned up sitting outside during a midwest winter. Rain mostly comes straight down but blowing snow could sift through the smallest opening and cover the whole inside; then melt. Imagine 3 day white out blizzards with 25-30 mile winds! Anyone have these type of experiences? LOL gary n. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jan 20 22:01:06 2013 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2013 21:01:06 -0800 Subject: [TR] Penetrating oils In-Reply-To: Message-ID: > "Machinist's Workshop" recently published information on > various penetrating oils. That was actually a long time ago, unless they republished the article. > Ibve been using Kroil for years; NOW they tell me! Results may vary. I've tried "weasel pee" several times, and it does not work as well as either Kroil or PB Blaster for me. But I don't use it on "scientifically rusted" bolts; nor do I particularly care how much torque it takes to turn the bolt as long as I can remove it without twisting it off. There is still a baby food jar of it sitting on the shelf, but I reach for PBB first. Oh, one other thing, neither Kroil nor PBB seem to do very much at first. You have to let them soak to penetrate, the longer the better. In severe cases (like the long pins that locate the rear springs to the frame on a TR3), I'll let it soak for weeks (with occasional BFH taps to help the penetration). Since the weasel pee separates in a matter of minutes, I can't imagine that soaking helps much with it. PS, if anyone knows the actual issue of MW, would you pass it along to me? -- Randall From don.hiscock at gmail.com Sun Jan 20 22:24:26 2013 From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 07:24:26 +0200 Subject: [TR] Penetrating oils In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: X2 on PB Blaster. The stuff works the best of all the things I've tried over the years. For the toughest jobs repeated applications and soak times over a month can help, as Randall notes. A can lasts a couple of years in my garage -- good value, and no point in scrimping on home-brew. Don On 1/21/13, Randall wrote: >> "Machinist's Workshop" recently published information on >> various penetrating oils. > > That was actually a long time ago, unless they republished the article. > >> Ib ve been using Kroil for years; NOW they tell me! > > Results may vary. I've tried "weasel pee" several times, and it does not > work as well as either Kroil or PB Blaster for me. But I don't use it on > "scientifically rusted" bolts; nor do I particularly care how much torque > it > takes to turn the bolt as long as I can remove it without twisting it off. > There is still a baby food jar of it sitting on the shelf, but I reach for > PBB first. > > Oh, one other thing, neither Kroil nor PBB seem to do very much at first. > You have to let them soak to penetrate, the longer the better. In severe > cases (like the long pins that locate the rear springs to the frame on a > TR3), I'll let it soak for weeks (with occasional BFH taps to help the > penetration). Since the weasel pee separates in a matter of minutes, I > can't imagine that soaking helps much with it. > > PS, if anyone knows the actual issue of MW, would you pass it along to me? > > -- Randall > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Mon Jan 21 07:01:58 2013 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 06:01:58 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] British Car Suspenders Message-ID: <1358776918.64557.YahooMailNeo@web180905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> I've reached that point in life where I need suspenders to keep my pants from sagging. I wear flannel lined pants in the winters and it is too much for a belt to handle. I've been wearing some extra-corny red suspenders with farm animals on them (from Germany), but wanted something less dorky, if there is such a thing as less dorky than suspenders. I found some with fish on them and others that looked like big tape measures with tools. Even skull & crossbones. I finally bought a set of suspenders with British cars on them and everyone seems to like them and think that they fit me. If you search for "car suspenders" on Ebay they should come up. Only $9.95 and made in USA. http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Men-s-Womans-Antique-Car-Suspenders-Made-in-USA-/23 0868600316?pt=US_Men_s_Accessories&hash=item35c0d745fc Bill in Tehachapi From jdemuth at ties2.net Mon Jan 21 07:42:54 2013 From: jdemuth at ties2.net (Joe DeMuth) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 08:42:54 -0600 Subject: [TR] Winter Driving Message-ID: <9136AE95-A7E9-4389-8AAF-664CB27EC402@ties2.net> From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk Mon Jan 21 08:28:56 2013 From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 15:28:56 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] British Car Suspenders In-Reply-To: <1358776918.64557.YahooMailNeo@web180905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1358776918.64557.YahooMailNeo@web180905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1358782136.10036.YahooMailNeo@web171902.mail.ir2.yahoo.com> Delight!!! I'm not the only one who has made the conversion. My trousers have been staying up this way for the last year and I've got a variety in extra wide in all sorts of different colours. Not too keen on the 'shark's teeth' waistband clamp variety as there have been a few occasions when one has come adrift under tension and I've either had a smack in the face or a clout round the back of the head for my trouble. Might even wear them with shorts next year and I'm not in the slightest bit worried about "what people think." I'm comfortable and that's all that matters. Jonmac ________________________________ From: William Brewer To: Triumphs Sent: Monday, 21 January 2013, 14:01 Subject: [TR] British Car Suspenders > I've reached that point in life where I need suspenders to keep my pants >from sagging. I wear flannel lined pants in the winters and it is too much for >a belt to handle. I've been wearing some extra-corny red suspenders with farm >animals on them (from Germany), but wanted something less dorky, if there is >such a thing as less dorky than suspenders. I found some with fish on them and >others that looked like big tape measures with tools. Even skull & crossbones. >I finally bought a set of suspenders with British cars on them and everyone >seems to like them and think that they fit me. If you search for "car >suspenders" on Ebay they should come up. Only $9.95 and made in USA. > > > >http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Men-s-Womans-Antique-Car-Suspenders-Made-in-USA-/23 >0868600316?pt=US_Men_s_Accessories&hash=item35c0d745fc > > Bill in Tehachapi > >** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk From pethier at comcast.net Mon Jan 21 08:33:37 2013 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 15:33:37 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] British Car Suspenders In-Reply-To: <1358776918.64557.YahooMailNeo@web180905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1709124542.65191.1358782417943.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> If they have British cars on them, you have to call them "braces". Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier at comcast.net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica http://www.mnautox.com http://www.mntriumphs.org ----- Original Message ----- > From: "William Brewer" > To: "Triumphs" > Sent: Monday, January 21, 2013 8:01:58 AM > Subject: [TR] British Car Suspenders > I've reached that point in life where I need suspenders to keep my > pants > from sagging. I wear flannel lined pants in the winters and it is too > much for > a belt to handle. I've been wearing some extra-corny red suspenders > with farm > animals on them (from Germany), but wanted something less dorky, if > there is > such a thing as less dorky than suspenders. I found some with fish on > them and > others that looked like big tape measures with tools. Even skull & > crossbones. > I finally bought a set of suspenders with British cars on them and > everyone > seems to like them and think that they fit me. If you search for "car > suspenders" on Ebay they should come up. Only $9.95 and made in USA. > > > > http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Men-s-Womans-Antique-Car-Suspenders-Made-in-USA-/23 > 0868600316?pt=US_Men_s_Accessories&hash=item35c0d745fc > > Bill in Tehachapi From pethier at comcast.net Mon Jan 21 08:35:24 2013 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 15:35:24 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Winter Driving In-Reply-To: <9136AE95-A7E9-4389-8AAF-664CB27EC402@ties2.net> Message-ID: <346413690.65193.1358782524311.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Winter driving indeed, Joe. It looks like a complete white-out. :-) Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier at comcast.net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica http://www.mnautox.com http://www.mntriumphs.org ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Joe DeMuth" > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Monday, January 21, 2013 8:42:54 AM > Subject: [TR] Winter Driving > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** From auprichard at uprichard.net Mon Jan 21 08:55:02 2013 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 10:55:02 -0500 Subject: [TR] Surrey top help needed In-Reply-To: <8CFC57F7A5CBB97-1C2C-1BECE@webmail-m045.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CFC57F7A5CBB97-1C2C-1BECE@webmail-m045.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <02de01cdf7ef$b0298d50$107ca7f0$@uprichard.net> Not an expert, but see below for what I know. Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Steve Thornton Sent: Sunday, January 20, 2013 6:46 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Cc: bill.davis at wku.edu Subject: [TR] Surrey top help needed Hello List- I purchased a surrey top for my TR250 this weekend, after a long search for one. It came with the back section and a steel mid section. My questions are- 1. What is the best way to store them when not in use? The back section isn't really designed for on and off, since it requires removing the interior panels to access the securing bolts and the door gap trim is continuous across the top itself. Can't speak for the mid-section since mine is soft. 2. Do you have to take the convertible top and frame off to install the surrey top? Yes - and you will have much more shoulder room. 3. Does anyone have a set of surrey top installation instructions? Not that complicated. I have pics is you want to contact me off-line 4. Does anyone know of a source for the soft top midsection and the frame that goes with it? I got mine from Racetorations (disclaimer - my cousin is the owner) Many thanks in advance. Steven O. Thornton Attorney at Law 1011 Lehman Avenue Suite 102 Bowling Green, KY 42103 270-781-6630 ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Mon Jan 21 08:57:14 2013 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 07:57:14 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] British Car Suspenders In-Reply-To: <1358776918.64557.YahooMailNeo@web180905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1358776918.64557.YahooMailNeo@web180905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1358783834.30614.YahooMailNeo@web120006.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> you need a pair like red green wears. of course you could go for the "Florida" look with no suspenders Frank From: William Brewer To: Triumphs Sent: Monday, January 21, 2013 6:01 AM Subject: [TR] British Car Suspenders I've reached that point in life where I need suspenders to keep my pants from sagging. I wear flannel lined pants in the winters and it is too much for a belt to handle. I've been wearing some extra-corny red suspenders with farm animals on them (from Germany), but wanted something less dorky, if there is such a thing as less dorky than suspenders. I found some with fish on them and others that looked like big tape measures with tools. Even skull & crossbones. I finally bought a set of suspenders with British cars on them and everyone seems to like them and think that they fit me. If you search for "car suspenders" on Ebay they should come up. Only $9.95 and made in USA. http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Men-s-Womans-Antique-Car-Suspenders-Made-in-USA-/23 0868600316?pt=US_Men_s_Accessories&hash=item35c0d745fc Bill in Tehachapi ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From zoboherald at aol.com Mon Jan 21 09:14:24 2013 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 11:14:24 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Penetrating oils In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CFC60982A2DC9B-22B0-1D9F8@webmail-d003.sysops.aol.com> I liked using the Kroil products, but lack of local availability turned me off, whereas I can get PB Blaster anywhere, including the nearest Walmart. PBB works very well for me; if it doesn't, next step is a propane torch, then the Sawz-All (or other implement of power cutting ability)! --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us -----Original Message----- From: Don Hiscock X2 on PB Blaster.... From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Jan 21 09:15:23 2013 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 11:15:23 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] British Car Suspenders Message-ID: <211eb.1cdd1fd2.3e2ec39b@cs.com> I have not yet made the conversion to suspenders to hold up my troosers but I do use a pair to keep my kilt in position when I am wearing my doublet. The doublet positions the kilt belt too high and it tends to work the kilt down to where it reaches below the knees and that is just not proper. The sporan is no help at all. Dave In a message dated 1/21/2013 9:29:05 AM Central Standard Time, flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk writes: > Delight!!! I'm not the only one who has made the conversion. My trousers > have > been staying up this way for the last year and I've got a variety in extra > wide in all sorts of different colours. Not too keen on the 'shark's > teeth' > waistband clamp variety as there have been a few occasions when one has > come > adrift under tension and I've either had a smack in the face or a clout > round > the back of the head for my trouble. > Might even wear them with shorts next > year and I'm not in the slightest bit worried about "what people think." > I'm > comfortable and that's all that matters. From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Jan 21 09:19:04 2013 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 11:19:04 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] British Car Suspenders Message-ID: <213eb.74f5e47a.3e2ec478@cs.com> What? Duct Tape suspenders? In a message dated 1/21/2013 9:57:22 AM Central Standard Time, yellowtr3 at yahoo.com writes: > you need a pair like red green wears. > of course you could go for the "Florida" > look with no suspenders From wbeech at flash.net Mon Jan 21 09:31:23 2013 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 10:31:23 -0600 Subject: [TR] side curtain build In-Reply-To: <002601cdf67a$5b277d10$11767730$@net> References: <1358565173.98112.YahooMailNeo@web120602.mail.ne1.yahoo.com><50FA848B.709@key-men.com> <002601cdf67a$5b277d10$11767730$@net> Message-ID: <887DD1414D0645588D8CB3FE7DD1402D@bboffice> Speaking of side curtains, here is an auction for some aftermarket side screens on eBay. I have a set of these that came with my car, but never figured out just how to properly install them, or if they are worth installing at all. Has anyone had any experience with these? http://www.ebay.com/itm/360489318490?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984. m1423.l2649 Thanks, Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kinderlehrer Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2013 1:23 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] side curtain build My approach was bit different - I used the router attachment on my Dremel to cut a slot in the plastic, leaving sufficient material at the top and bottom. I then used a sewing awl to sew through the side curtain material together through and for the length of the slot. Worked for me. Bob -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of George Richardson Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2013 3:34 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] side curtain build I used a big old Singer industrial sewing machine on the plastic and it just punched through. However, I did do some touchup on the ends by using a sewing awl and heating the needle so that it melted through the plastic. George Richardson Key Men - Keys for Classics www.key-men.com On 1/18/2013 10:12 PM, Gary Nafziger wrote: > I'm rebuilding my tr-3 side curtains and things are going well. > However I'm having a problem fitting the forward solid window. It's > very thin plexiglass and the only information I've been able to find > simply says the front plexi window is sewn in with the vinyl trim. > Does a person drill small holes through the plexiglass to pull the > thread through? Is the thread then looped around the forward vertical > frame to pull it tight? The forward vertical frame piece is also very > thin and I'm wondering how to glue vinyl to that as well as attach the > plexiglass. > > > Just wondering is anyone has re-built they're side screens themselves > and how they handled this. > > thanks > > gary n. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Mon Jan 21 09:34:21 2013 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 08:34:21 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] British Car Suspenders In-Reply-To: <213eb.74f5e47a.3e2ec478@cs.com> References: <213eb.74f5e47a.3e2ec478@cs.com> Message-ID: <1358786061.56218.YahooMailNeo@web120005.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> you say that like there is something wrong !! From: "Dave1massey at cs.com" To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, January 21, 2013 8:19 AM Subject: Re: [TR] British Car Suspenders What? Duct Tape suspenders? In a message dated 1/21/2013 9:57:22 AM Central Standard Time, yellowtr3 at yahoo.com writes: > you need a pair like red green wears. > of course you could go for the "Florida" > look with no suspenders ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Mon Jan 21 09:36:26 2013 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 08:36:26 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] British Car Suspenders In-Reply-To: <211eb.1cdd1fd2.3e2ec39b@cs.com> References: <211eb.1cdd1fd2.3e2ec39b@cs.com> Message-ID: <1358786186.11294.YahooMailNeo@web120001.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Dave i did not know what a kilt was until i goggled it. is it like a man dress? :-) Frank....an Englishman disguised as an American From: "Dave1massey at cs.com" To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, January 21, 2013 8:15 AM Subject: Re: [TR] British Car Suspenders I have not yet made the conversion to suspenders to hold up my troosers but I do use a pair to keep my kilt in position when I am wearing my doublet. The doublet positions the kilt belt too high and it tends to work the kilt down to where it reaches below the knees and that is just not proper. The sporan is no help at all. Dave In a message dated 1/21/2013 9:29:05 AM Central Standard Time, flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk writes: > Delight!!! I'm not the only one who has made the conversion. My trousers > have > been staying up this way for the last year and I've got a variety in extra > wide in all sorts of different colours. Not too keen on the 'shark's > teeth' > waistband clamp variety as there have been a few occasions when one has > come > adrift under tension and I've either had a smack in the face or a clout > round > the back of the head for my trouble. > Might even wear them with shorts next > year and I'm not in the slightest bit worried about "what people think." > I'm > comfortable and that's all that matters. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From jdemuth at ties2.net Mon Jan 21 09:59:59 2013 From: jdemuth at ties2.net (Joe DeMuth) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 10:59:59 -0600 Subject: [TR] Fwd: Winter Driving References: <9136AE95-A7E9-4389-8AAF-664CB27EC402@ties2.net> Message-ID: > I bought my first TR3 the year I graduated from college. I drove it all winter long, commuting to my job but also driving home for the holidays from Minneapolis to southwestern Minnesota. > While at home, the temp nose-dived to twenty below. There was a New Year's Eve party that I was committed to attending and of course, the TR was frozen solid. A charcoal fire in a garbage > can lid for four hours thawed it out enough to turn over, and I made the party on time. Even had time to stop in New Ulm and pick up a college buddy and several bottles of wine for the party. > But that was the last winter I had the car. In the spring the choice was keep the car or marry the gal that hosted the party, I couldn't afford both, so I went with, and still have the party host. From stan.foster at hp.com Mon Jan 21 09:59:09 2013 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 16:59:09 +0000 Subject: [TR] British Car Suspenders In-Reply-To: <1709124542.65191.1358782417943.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <1358776918.64557.YahooMailNeo@web180905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <1709124542.65191.1358782417943.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: That would be bracers. Women wear suspenders. Stan -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of pethier at comcast.net Sent: Monday, January 21, 2013 10:34 AM To: William Brewer Cc: Triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] British Car Suspenders If they have British cars on them, you have to call them "braces". Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier at comcast.net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica http://www.mnautox.com http://www.mntriumphs.org ----- Original Message ----- > From: "William Brewer" > To: "Triumphs" > Sent: Monday, January 21, 2013 8:01:58 AM > Subject: [TR] British Car Suspenders > I've reached that point in life where I need suspenders to keep my > pants from sagging. I wear flannel lined pants in the winters and it > is too much for a belt to handle. I've been wearing some extra-corny > red suspenders with farm animals on them (from Germany), but wanted > something less dorky, if there is such a thing as less dorky than > suspenders. I found some with fish on them and others that looked like > big tape measures with tools. Even skull & crossbones. > I finally bought a set of suspenders with British cars on them and > everyone seems to like them and think that they fit me. If you search > for "car suspenders" on Ebay they should come up. Only $9.95 and made > in USA. > > > > http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Men-s-Womans-Antique-Car-Suspenders-Made-in- > USA-/23 0868600316?pt=US_Men_s_Accessories&hash=item35c0d745fc > > Bill in Tehachapi ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/stan.foster at hp.com From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Jan 21 10:20:42 2013 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 12:20:42 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] British Car Suspenders Message-ID: <6572.632a6bac.3e2ed2e9@cs.com> Are there any other kind? ;-) In a message dated 1/21/2013 10:34:23 AM Central Standard Time, yellowtr3 at yahoo.com writes: > you say that like there is something wrong !! > > > > > From: "Dave1massey at cs.com" > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Monday, January 21, 2013 8:19 AM > Subject: Re: [TR] British Car Suspenders > > > What? Duct Tape suspenders? > > In a message dated 1/21/2013 9:57:22 AM Central Standard Time, > yellowtr3 at yahoo.com writes: > >you need a pair like red green wears. > >of course you could go for the "Florida" > >look with no suspenders From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Jan 21 10:29:10 2013 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 12:29:10 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] British Car Suspenders Message-ID: <6b04.7a49d911.3e2ed4e6@cs.com> It is called a "Kilt" because many have been "Kilt" for calling it a dress. ;-) In a message dated 1/21/2013 10:36:27 AM Central Standard Time, yellowtr3 at yahoo.com writes: > Dave > i did not know what a kilt was until i goggled it. > is it like a man dress? > > :-) > > Frank....an Englishman disguised as an American From dctr6 at optonline.net Mon Jan 21 11:16:30 2013 From: dctr6 at optonline.net (Dennis Culligan) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 13:16:30 -0500 Subject: [TR] British Car Suspenders (would they hold up a British car?) Message-ID: <000601cdf803$70135d40$503a17c0$@net> William Brewer wrote: > I've reached that point in life where I need suspenders to keep my pants from sagging. One of the original members of our 20 year old car club (The Brits of the Hudson) has been wearing Union Jack suspenders for as long as I've known him. Available on Amazon for $11.95 (NFI). Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U From blambert at socal.rr.com Mon Jan 21 11:29:41 2013 From: blambert at socal.rr.com (D&B Lambert) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 10:29:41 -0800 Subject: [TR] British Car Suspenders In-Reply-To: <1358786061.56218.YahooMailNeo@web120005.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <213eb.74f5e47a.3e2ec478@cs.com> <1358786061.56218.YahooMailNeo@web120005.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Just for a different looking pair of suspenders, those who receive The Vintage Triumph (VTR) magazine can see a pair of Triumph suspenders in the Triumphest display photo in the upper right corner on page 25 of the August/September 2012 issue. These were worn by one of our club members for many years until he donated them "for display purposes only". Dunno where he got them, but I do know it was many years ago. Dennis From pryner at verizon.net Mon Jan 21 11:48:56 2013 From: pryner at verizon.net (Peter Ryner) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 13:48:56 -0500 Subject: [TR] thots on side curtains In-Reply-To: <39E86FA55F0C46F2AAC76BCD23719D79@Datsun> References: <1358736433.83146.YahooMailNeo@web120604.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <39E86FA55F0C46F2AAC76BCD23719D79@Datsun> Message-ID: <709E5C058DD44489962ABDDB78E22B69@PetePC> We had our TR3 in Minot ND while stationed there. Had a very small block heater that allowed me two engine turnovers as long as the clutch was in. If it didn't start on the two turns, it wasn't going to start until afternoon. Just like you describe, the snow comes in the car, settles on the seat, and thaws when you sit on it. After the third day of winter the seat becomes a block of ice. Although we only lived about 10 minutes from work, I always had a wet seat by the time I got there. Carried a towel in the car to sit on. Kept me dry and worked like a champ. Also used the car for varmit hunting in the winter. Had to wear full outdoor gear when going down the highway. The "heater" kept the windshield clear once it got going and after you scraped the inside and outside glass first. Lots of great stories from that car - always an adventure when we drove it. Still have a TR although the one in Minot made it to Guam, but became too rusted to return home. The cross country trip to California is another story, but I made it without a breakdown. Pete > While working with my side curtains I've been impressed by how sloppy the > worn > ones fit as well as how hard it is to get a good tight fit on re-built > ones. > It made me wonder about how many brand new tr-3's were daily drivers back > then > throughout the whole year including winter especially in the midwest. > I can't > imagine a tr-3 even all buttoned up sitting outside during a midwest > winter. > Rain mostly comes straight down but blowing snow could sift through the > smallest opening and cover the whole inside; then melt. Imagine 3 day > white > out blizzards with 25-30 mile winds! > Anyone have these type of experiences? > LOL From n197tr4 at cs.com Mon Jan 21 12:04:08 2013 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 14:04:08 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] KASTNER CUP 2013 ROAD AMERICA SEPTEMBER Message-ID: <8CFC62137C51D89-204C-1EA1B@webmail-d127.sysops.aol.com> Dave Massey....you have given me an idea with your comments on the kilts. I know that several clubs are planning to attend the Kastner Cup. Could you be induced to bring your bagpipes? It could be a hoot at THE GATHERING ON THE GREEN. Have your agent contact my people. Thanks! Joe Alexander A. R. E. 645 1st Street Jesup, Iowa 50648 319.464.4711 (cell) n197tr4 at cs.com From trglory at verizon.net Mon Jan 21 13:38:41 2013 From: trglory at verizon.net (Joseph Laurito) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 15:38:41 -0500 Subject: [TR] side curtain build In-Reply-To: <887DD1414D0645588D8CB3FE7DD1402D@bboffice> References: <1358565173.98112.YahooMailNeo@web120602.mail.ne1.yahoo.com><50FA848B.709@key-men.com> <002601cdf67a$5b277d10$11767730$@net> <887DD1414D0645588D8CB3FE7DD1402D@bboffice> Message-ID: <005501cdf817$4cbcf2c0$e636d840$@net> Yeah, I have a set of those on my car. They work great. The soft lower part slides into a channel at the bottom of the aluminum frame. You need to put lift-a-dot fasteners along to bottom of that lower part so you can snap them to the outside of the door. Bought them in 1970 and used them ever since then. When I finished the restoration last year, I mounted a set of "real" ones that I bought for a king's ransom ..... didn't fit worth a darn, weren't even close (one was too high and too far forward, the other was too low and too far back). I drug these old ones out, cleaned them up, did a little adjusting and they work like a charm. Although these work fine, I would like to get the "real" ones to fit for esthetic purposes so if anyone can give me some hints on how to do the adjusting without stripping them down to bare frames it would be greatly appreciated. In the meantime I'll keep the softsiders in the trunk wherever I go. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Wbeech Sent: Monday, January 21, 2013 11:31 AM To: kinderlehrer at comcast.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] side curtain build Speaking of side curtains, here is an auction for some aftermarket side screens on eBay. I have a set of these that came with my car, but never figured out just how to properly install them, or if they are worth installing at all. Has anyone had any experience with these? http://www.ebay.com/itm/360489318490?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984. m1423.l2649 Thanks, Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kinderlehrer Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2013 1:23 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] side curtain build My approach was bit different - I used the router attachment on my Dremel to cut a slot in the plastic, leaving sufficient material at the top and bottom. I then used a sewing awl to sew through the side curtain material together through and for the length of the slot. Worked for me. Bob -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of George Richardson Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2013 3:34 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] side curtain build I used a big old Singer industrial sewing machine on the plastic and it just punched through. However, I did do some touchup on the ends by using a sewing awl and heating the needle so that it melted through the plastic. George Richardson Key Men - Keys for Classics www.key-men.com On 1/18/2013 10:12 PM, Gary Nafziger wrote: > I'm rebuilding my tr-3 side curtains and things are going well. > However I'm having a problem fitting the forward solid window. It's > very thin plexiglass and the only information I've been able to find > simply says the front plexi window is sewn in with the vinyl trim. > Does a person drill small holes through the plexiglass to pull the > thread through? Is the thread then looped around the forward vertical > frame to pull it tight? The forward vertical frame piece is also very > thin and I'm wondering how to glue vinyl to that as well as attach the > plexiglass. > > > Just wondering is anyone has re-built they're side screens themselves > and how they handled this. > > thanks > > gary n. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trglory at verizon.net From Loumetelko at aol.com Mon Jan 21 14:10:16 2013 From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 16:10:16 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] thots on side curtains Message-ID: <310ce.5143fee2.3e2f08b8@aol.com> While working with my side curtains I've been impressed by how sloppy the worn ones fit as well as how hard it is to get a good tight fit on re-built ones. No matter if we are talking about drafty side curtains or leaking bodily fluids or cold natured starting or total lack of safety features just remember that in the 50s these cars were state of the art and therein lies the charm! During my wife's first ride in my freshly restored 54 TR2 we were inadvertently caught in a downpour and she started screaming "turn on the wipers". Those of you familiar with the one speed versions know the value of Rain-X over the wipers! She was stunned when I handed her a towel to wipe the inside of the windscreen! We both emerged with wet lower pant legs. Now some 35,000 miles later (she has been along for about 30 of those) we follow a road just to see where it ends. Lou Metelko Auburn, Indiana From agraham at execulink.com Mon Jan 21 14:43:51 2013 From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 16:43:51 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 Badge fastening Message-ID: <50FDB697.6070506@execulink.com> Hello List: Wondering what techniques listers have used to fasten the badges (& letters) to the front clip and rear deck (TR2). I have used the pegs on the backside of the badge and the "spring clips", but never really satisfied with the fit. Also worried about how easy it would be to simply lift the badge off the body. Anyone use anything else? Almost tempted to use epoxy and worry about the consequences later. Thanks for any insights. Angelo Graham From trmarty at hotmail.com Mon Jan 21 14:43:57 2013 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 16:43:57 -0500 Subject: [TR] British Car Suspenders In-Reply-To: <1358786186.11294.YahooMailNeo@web120001.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <211eb.1cdd1fd2.3e2ec39b@cs.com>, <1358786186.11294.YahooMailNeo@web120001.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Now darn it, who is going to clean up the coffee off my computer screen ! I don't care what Dave says, that's funny right there! :) :) :) Sorry Dave, Marty > Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 08:36:26 -0800 > From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com > To: Dave1massey at cs.com; triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] British Car Suspenders > > Dave > i did not know what a kilt was until i goggled it. > is it like a man > dress? > > :-) > > Frank....an Englishman disguised as an American From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Jan 21 14:57:13 2013 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 16:57:13 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] British Car Suspenders Message-ID: <139d9.45fd15a.3e2f13b9@cs.com> Now you sound like my wife. In a message dated 1/21/2013 3:43:57 PM Central Standard Time, trmarty at hotmail.com writes: > I don't care what Dave says, that's funny right there! :) :) :) From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Mon Jan 21 15:20:17 2013 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 14:20:17 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] British Car Suspenders In-Reply-To: <139d9.45fd15a.3e2f13b9@cs.com> References: <139d9.45fd15a.3e2f13b9@cs.com> Message-ID: <1358806817.77335.YahooMailNeo@web120002.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> sounding like the wife and looking like a monty python wife.....not the same !!! From: "Dave1massey at cs.com" To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, January 21, 2013 1:57 PM Subject: Re: [TR] British Car Suspenders Now you sound like my wife. In a message dated 1/21/2013 3:43:57 PM Central Standard Time, trmarty at hotmail.com writes: > I don't care what Dave says, that's funny right there! :) :) :) ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From auprichard at uprichard.net Mon Jan 21 15:24:07 2013 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 17:24:07 -0500 Subject: [TR] side curtain build In-Reply-To: <887DD1414D0645588D8CB3FE7DD1402D@bboffice> References: <1358565173.98112.YahooMailNeo@web120602.mail.ne1.yahoo.com><50FA848B.709@key-men.com> <002601cdf67a$5b277d10$11767730$@net> <887DD1414D0645588D8CB3FE7DD1402D@bboffice> Message-ID: <032401cdf826$0849c370$18dd4a50$@uprichard.net> Bill: these are AMCO sidescreens - came out for a limited time and are quite valuable (I see the set sold for $400 on eBay). My car had the problem of the weight of "traditional" sidescreens causing the door to sag so it was difficult to close from inside. I found a pair of AMCO sidescreens and refurbished them. There is an individual on this distribution who was going to do it for me, but after 5 years I ended up doing it myself (no hard feelings). They were easy to install and I love them. If you don't want yours, I'll buy 'em! Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Wbeech Sent: Monday, January 21, 2013 11:31 AM To: kinderlehrer at comcast.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] side curtain build Speaking of side curtains, here is an auction for some aftermarket side screens on eBay. I have a set of these that came with my car, but never figured out just how to properly install them, or if they are worth installing at all. Has anyone had any experience with these? http://www.ebay.com/itm/360489318490?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984. m1423.l2649 Thanks, Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kinderlehrer Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2013 1:23 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] side curtain build My approach was bit different - I used the router attachment on my Dremel to cut a slot in the plastic, leaving sufficient material at the top and bottom. I then used a sewing awl to sew through the side curtain material together through and for the length of the slot. Worked for me. Bob -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of George Richardson Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2013 3:34 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] side curtain build I used a big old Singer industrial sewing machine on the plastic and it just punched through. However, I did do some touchup on the ends by using a sewing awl and heating the needle so that it melted through the plastic. George Richardson Key Men - Keys for Classics www.key-men.com On 1/18/2013 10:12 PM, Gary Nafziger wrote: > I'm rebuilding my tr-3 side curtains and things are going well. > However I'm having a problem fitting the forward solid window. It's > very thin plexiglass and the only information I've been able to find > simply says the front plexi window is sewn in with the vinyl trim. > Does a person drill small holes through the plexiglass to pull the > thread through? Is the thread then looped around the forward vertical > frame to pull it tight? The forward vertical frame piece is also very > thin and I'm wondering how to glue vinyl to that as well as attach the > plexiglass. > > > Just wondering is anyone has re-built they're side screens themselves > and how they handled this. > > thanks > > gary n. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From auprichard at uprichard.net Mon Jan 21 15:29:51 2013 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 17:29:51 -0500 Subject: [TR] thots on side curtains In-Reply-To: <310ce.5143fee2.3e2f08b8@aol.com> References: <310ce.5143fee2.3e2f08b8@aol.com> Message-ID: <032501cdf826$d851fd30$88f5f790$@uprichard.net> Following a road to see where it goes is known as a "stooge". We have used the term in our family for years and with time have accepted certain conditions: a stooge does not allow maps nor GPS devices, it is best done in a TR, and when someone drives past you and says, "she's a beauty", you need to reply "I know, and we 've been married for 20 years!" Guaranteed to secure another 20 ! Oh, and by the way, it appears the word "stooge" originated in WW2 with the RAF, where a stooge was where a plane took off with no particular destination in mind, other than to go looking for trouble. In my father's case, it was patrolling the English channel looking for German boats. Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Loumetelko at aol.com Sent: Monday, January 21, 2013 4:10 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] thots on side curtains While working with my side curtains I've been impressed by how sloppy the worn ones fit as well as how hard it is to get a good tight fit on re-built ones. No matter if we are talking about drafty side curtains or leaking bodily fluids or cold natured starting or total lack of safety features just remember that in the 50s these cars were state of the art and therein lies the charm! During my wife's first ride in my freshly restored 54 TR2 we were inadvertently caught in a downpour and she started screaming "turn on the wipers". Those of you familiar with the one speed versions know the value of Rain-X over the wipers! She was stunned when I handed her a towel to wipe the inside of the windscreen! We both emerged with wet lower pant legs. Now some 35,000 miles later (she has been along for about 30 of those) we follow a road just to see where it ends. Lou Metelko Auburn, Indiana ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From auprichard at uprichard.net Mon Jan 21 15:33:38 2013 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 17:33:38 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 Badge fastening In-Reply-To: <50FDB697.6070506@execulink.com> References: <50FDB697.6070506@execulink.com> Message-ID: <032601cdf827$5c7a3be0$156eb3a0$@uprichard.net> I used spring clips but the rattling drove me crazy. Epoxy did the job for me. Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Angelo Graham Sent: Monday, January 21, 2013 4:44 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR2/3 Badge fastening Hello List: Wondering what techniques listers have used to fasten the badges (& letters) to the front clip and rear deck (TR2). I have used the pegs on the backside of the badge and the "spring clips", but never really satisfied with the fit. Also worried about how easy it would be to simply lift the badge off the body. Anyone use anything else? Almost tempted to use epoxy and worry about the consequences later. Thanks for any insights. Angelo Graham ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk Mon Jan 21 15:47:38 2013 From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 22:47:38 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] TR2/3 Badge fastening In-Reply-To: <50FDB697.6070506@execulink.com> References: <50FDB697.6070506@execulink.com> Message-ID: <1358808458.29150.YahooMailNeo@web171905.mail.ir2.yahoo.com> As the badge is the same shape as the Standard-Triumph 'shell' that appeared on Triumph Tens, I've used a craft knife + nail scissors to cut a piece of flat rubber about 1/16th" thick to the outline of the badge. I've then sandwiched it between panel and the back of the badge. If you then press on the spring clips, the rubber removes sloppiness and the badge snugs down sufficiently tightly to prevent water getting under the rubber. Didn't rattle, didn't get stolen. Worked for me Jonmac >________________________________ > From: Angelo Graham >To: triumphs at autox.team.net >Sent: Monday, 21 January 2013, 21:43 >Subject: [TR] TR2/3 Badge fastening > >Hello List: >Wondering what techniques listers have used to fasten the badges (& letters) to the front clip and rear deck (TR2). I have used the pegs on the backside of the badge and the "spring clips", but never really satisfied with the fit. Also worried about how easy it would be to simply lift the badge off the body. >Anyone use anything else? Almost tempted to use epoxy and worry about the consequences later. >Thanks for any insights. >Angelo Graham > >** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Mon Jan 21 16:04:04 2013 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 15:04:04 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] winter driving/side curtains Message-ID: <1358809444.70036.YahooMailNeo@web120605.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> AAhhhh I loved reading about experiences with triumph winter driving. Isn't it something how experiences of discomfort or problem situations end up being those that we remember and talk about for years! We never tell stories about trips in comfortable dry cars with good heat and wipers.lol thanks for the memories. gary n. From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Mon Jan 21 16:17:27 2013 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 16:17:27 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 Badge fastening In-Reply-To: <50FDB697.6070506@execulink.com> References: <50FDB697.6070506@execulink.com> Message-ID: I secured mine using short pieces of rubber tubing - the sort with a tiny I.D. and a thick wall, may be called vacuum hose. Most of the letters can be held with one length of tubing (about an inch long) bent into a U and fit over both pegs. Some letters/locations worked better with a pair of 1/4" lengths over the pegs. The advantage of this method is that the letters can be quicly removed for polishing and waxing the area. The front badges are affixed in the usual manner (would be hard to get to to undo and anyway are easier to wax around). Have never had one come loose yet. Geo On Mon, Jan 21, 2013 at 2:43 PM, Angelo Graham wrote: > Hello List: > Wondering what techniques listers have used to fasten the badges (& > letters) to the front clip and rear deck (TR2). From wbeech at flash.net Mon Jan 21 16:30:33 2013 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 17:30:33 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 Badge fastening In-Reply-To: <032601cdf827$5c7a3be0$156eb3a0$@uprichard.net> References: <50FDB697.6070506@execulink.com> <032601cdf827$5c7a3be0$156eb3a0$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <8C64262620234F13B348994CBC8803A3@bboffice> I had the same issue of the movement, worried about the paint, but used a dab of clear silicone on the back of each post. Now they are all secure and would be fairly easy to remove is needed. Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby" '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab) www.triumphowners.com/1566 '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" "If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow" M.Andretti -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard Sent: Monday, January 21, 2013 4:34 PM To: 'Angelo Graham'; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 Badge fastening I used spring clips but the rattling drove me crazy. Epoxy did the job for me. Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Angelo Graham Sent: Monday, January 21, 2013 4:44 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR2/3 Badge fastening Hello List: Wondering what techniques listers have used to fasten the badges (& letters) to the front clip and rear deck (TR2). I have used the pegs on the backside of the badge and the "spring clips", but never really satisfied with the fit. Also worried about how easy it would be to simply lift the badge off the body. Anyone use anything else? Almost tempted to use epoxy and worry about the consequences later. Thanks for any insights. Angelo Graham ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jan 21 17:05:44 2013 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 16:05:44 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 Badge fastening In-Reply-To: <50FDB697.6070506@execulink.com> Message-ID: > Wondering what techniques listers have used to fasten the badges (& > letters) to the front clip and rear deck (TR2). I believe a TR2 should have only the badge, no letters. Late TR3s did sometimes have the Triumph script in the rear, but mine doesn't. > Anyone use anything else? I'm not quite sure where they came from, but I used spring nuts that have a hex formed into them, so they can be tightened with a nut driver. Similar to these http://goo.gl/LCKNb To use what appear to be the factory type flat spring nuts, I think you should support the badge in some fashion and then use a round hollow tool (perhaps a very small socket) to tap the spring nut down and lock it in place. That should provide some spring action to hold the badge securely against the nose. The fingers of the spring nut should dig into the post, so that it won't come apart unless something breaks. To disassemble, cut the spring nut with a Dremel cutoff blade. -- Randall From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Mon Jan 21 18:18:52 2013 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 20:18:52 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 Badge fastening In-Reply-To: References: <50FDB697.6070506@execulink.com> Message-ID: My tr2 had the Triumph badge on the back. Though not original for it, I intended to keep it until i realized it was off center by about an inch. I've had people ask me if i dechromed it... On Jan 21, 2013 7:06 PM, "Randall" wrote: > > Wondering what techniques listers have used to fasten the badges (& > > letters) to the front clip and rear deck (TR2). > > I believe a TR2 should have only the badge, no letters. Late TR3s did > sometimes have the Triumph script in the rear, but mine doesn't. > > > Anyone use anything else? > > I'm not quite sure where they came from, but I used spring nuts that have a > hex formed into them, so they can be tightened with a nut driver. Similar > to these > http://goo.gl/LCKNb > > To use what appear to be the factory type flat spring nuts, I think you > should support the badge in some fashion and then use a round hollow tool > (perhaps a very small socket) to tap the spring nut down and lock it in > place. That should provide some spring action to hold the badge securely > against the nose. The fingers of the spring nut should dig into the post, > so that it won't come apart unless something breaks. To disassemble, cut > the spring nut with a Dremel cutoff blade. > > -- Randall > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ccsimonsen at gmail.com From dave1massey at cs.com Mon Jan 21 18:31:36 2013 From: dave1massey at cs.com (Dave Massey) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 20:31:36 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] British Car Suspenders In-Reply-To: <1358806817.77335.YahooMailNeo@web120002.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <139d9.45fd15a.3e2f13b9@cs.com> <1358806817.77335.YahooMailNeo@web120002.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8CFC6575A2F0E99-2078-24546@webmail-d146.sysops.aol.com> And now, the Larch. Dave Massey -----Original Message----- From: Frank Fisher To: Dave1massey ; triumphs Sent: Mon, Jan 21, 2013 4:20 pm Subject: Re: [TR] British Car Suspenders sounding like the wife and looking like a monty python wife.....not the same !!! From: "Dave1massey at cs.com" To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, January 21, 2013 1:57 PM Subject: Re: [TR] British Car Suspenders Now you sound like my wife. In a message dated 1/21/2013 3:43:57 PM Central Standard Time, trmarty at hotmail.com writes: > I don't care what Dave says, that's funny right there! :) :) :) From john-marie at sbcglobal.net Mon Jan 21 19:14:39 2013 From: john-marie at sbcglobal.net (john-marie at sbcglobal.net) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 20:14:39 -0600 Subject: [TR] winter driving/side curtains In-Reply-To: <1358809444.70036.YahooMailNeo@web120605.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1358809444.70036.YahooMailNeo@web120605.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <3219845E-ABE1-441D-8D1D-330A95EC474A@sbcglobal.net> Not all stories about side curtain TRs happen in winter or rain. Many years ago, I was driving my TR3 to a new assignment at Davis Monthan Air Force Base in Tucson. I stopped overnight in El Paso. It was springtime...windy. The next morning, the inside of the car was covered with sand. Sand every where! And I thought I buttoned it up pretty good. John Sent from my iPad On Jan 21, 2013, at 5:04 PM, Gary Nafziger wrote: > AAhhhh I loved reading about experiences with triumph winter driving. Isn't > it something how experiences of discomfort or problem situations end up being > those that we remember and talk about for years! We never tell stories about > trips in comfortable dry cars with good heat and wipers.lol > thanks for the > memories. > > gary n. > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john-marie at sbcglobal.net From pfullam at nycap.rr.com Mon Jan 21 21:15:52 2013 From: pfullam at nycap.rr.com (Peter) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 23:15:52 -0500 Subject: [TR] Winter driving Message-ID: <001201cdf857$2afd02c0$80f70840$@rr.com> In its first years, my TR4 sat outside all the time, including some -20 degree winter nights. After a couple of unsuccessful attempts at a really cold start, I thought it might be better if the engine could spin faster. So I pulled two of the spark plugs, and it started on two cylinders. It was pretty lumpy, but it ran. I gave it about 30 seconds, then put in the third plug and ran it another 30 seconds. I put in the fourth plug and was good to go, without grinding the battery flat. The last time I had to do that was in 1966. On mounting hood badges, I discovered that the pins on my TR4 badge are the about the same diameter as a 4-40 machine screw, so I ran a 4-40 die down the pins and mounted the badge with two nuts and washers. Rigid, vibration free and removable. Pete Fullamm From dlhogye at comcast.net Mon Jan 21 21:35:09 2013 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye) Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2013 04:35:09 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Winter driving In-Reply-To: <001201cdf857$2afd02c0$80f70840$@rr.com> Message-ID: <1307766528.169032.1358829309553.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> That's terrific! That's a really clever solution to the problem. The reason you haven't had to try that again might be related to global warming, or perhaps you got yourself one of those fancy plug-in dip sticks. Hey, I've been wanting to communicate with this group for some time and Mark Bradakis just got me dialed in. Thanks Mark, Dave Hogye Santa Cruz ----- Original Message ----- From: "Peter" To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, January 21, 2013 8:15:52 PM Subject: [TR] Winter driving In its first years, my TR4 sat outside all the time, including some -20 degree winter nights. After a couple of unsuccessful attempts at a really cold start, I thought it might be better if the engine could spin faster. So I pulled two of the spark plugs, and it started on two cylinders. It was pretty lumpy, but it ran. I gave it about 30 seconds, then put in the third plug and ran it another 30 seconds. I put in the fourth plug and was good to go, without grinding the battery flat. The last time I had to do that was in 1966. On mounting hood badges, I discovered that the pins on my TR4 badge are the about the same diameter as a 4-40 machine screw, so I ran a 4-40 die down the pins and mounted the badge with two nuts and washers. Rigid, vibration free and removable. Pete Fullamm ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye at comcast.net From glemon at neb.rr.com Mon Jan 21 19:55:52 2013 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2013 20:55:52 -0600 Subject: [TR] winter driving/side curtains In-Reply-To: <3219845E-ABE1-441D-8D1D-330A95EC474A@sbcglobal.net> References: <1358809444.70036.YahooMailNeo@web120605.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <3219845E-ABE1-441D-8D1D-330A95EC474A@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: Although my early days of driving were in a mid-sixties Sprite with roll up windows, the weather did not probably get in as bad as it did in a TR3, but I remember mornings with a good dusting of snow on the seats. I also remember the marginal batteries and starters, when it got really cold you did have to go out and start it every couple of hours or it might be a lost cause. The more fun aspects were the snow being the great equalizer, I remember one snow night pulling up beside a new red Porsche 911 in my old red Sprite. The light turned green and we both slid around trying to get some traction and accelerate as best we could, he beat me to the next light, but I made it a good race. Later when I was out of college and had a real job I had a TR4A that I still used as a daily driver, amazing what being able to afford a fresh battery, rebuilding the carbs, and having everything else in good order will do, that car would start on one or two tries, even after being out all night in sub-zero (Fahrenheit) temps. Greg Lemon 68 TR250 -------------------------------------------------- From levilevi at comcast.net Tue Jan 22 17:02:59 2013 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud R) Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2013 17:02:59 -0700 Subject: [TR] Winter driving In-Reply-To: <1307766528.169032.1358829309553.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <1307766528.169032.1358829309553.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: When my wife and I first started dating here in Colorado we used to take my first TR6 skiing. We'd unzip the back window put the 2 sets of skis in and down into the passenger footwell. Ski boots in the boot and we were off. It was a decent car in the snow surprisingly to me. We skied this way for a couple years. One advantage was you could wear all your ski gear going up the mountain and coming back since the heater was NOT going to make you too hot, especially coming back. Changing clothes was not needed. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) On Jan 21, 2013, at 9:35 PM, davehogye wrote: > That's terrific! That's a really clever solution to the problem. > The reason you haven't had to try that again might be related to > global warming, or perhaps you got yourself one of those fancy plug- > in dip sticks. > Hey, I've been wanting to communicate with this group for some time > and Mark Bradakis just got me dialed in. > Thanks Mark, > Dave Hogye > Santa Cruz > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Peter" > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Monday, January 21, 2013 8:15:52 PM > Subject: [TR] Winter driving > > In its first years, my TR4 sat outside all the time, including some > -20 > degree winter nights. After a couple of unsuccessful attempts at a > really > cold start, I thought it might be better if the engine could spin > faster. > So I pulled two of the spark plugs, and it started on two cylinders. > It was > pretty lumpy, but it ran. I gave it about 30 seconds, then put in > the third > plug and ran it another 30 seconds. I put in the fourth plug and was > good to > go, without grinding the battery flat. The last time I had to do > that was in > 1966. > > > > On mounting hood badges, I discovered that the pins on my TR4 badge > are the > about the same diameter as a 4-40 machine screw, so I ran a 4-40 die > down > the pins and mounted the badge with two nuts and washers. Rigid, > vibration > free and removable. > > > > Pete Fullamm > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye at comcast.net > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net From jagmog at hotmail.com Tue Jan 22 18:26:20 2013 From: jagmog at hotmail.com (Jonas Payne) Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2013 17:26:20 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3 Gear Ratios Message-ID: Anybody out there know what the gear ratios for a TR3 were? Considering a T5 swap (over the Toyota) and want to insure that the performance is close (or improved). Also - anybody want to weigh in on a rack and pinion conversion? The kits seem a bit overpriced, and I'm pretty handy, so I'm curious as to what others have done. Just sold my big healey and want to make my TR3 into a more comfortable touring car. Jonas Payne PBR Consulting 702-882-6711 From wbeech at flash.net Tue Jan 22 19:18:35 2013 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2013 20:18:35 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 Gear Ratios In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7C1EA479013B4FB6B799DD2A70E90840@bboffice> Here what the Bentley's manual has: RATIOS Gearbox Overall Top w/OD 0.82 3.03 Fourth 1.00 3.70 Third 1.325 4.90 Second 2.00 7.40 First 3.38 12.50 Reverse 4.28 15.80 I suspect that the 'Overall' number is dictated by the diff ratio, either 3.7 or 4.1 W/OD installed Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jonas Payne Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2013 7:26 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR3 Gear Ratios Anybody out there know what the gear ratios for a TR3 were? Considering a T5 swap (over the Toyota) and want to insure that the performance is close (or improved). Also - anybody want to weigh in on a rack and pinion conversion? The kits seem a bit overpriced, and I'm pretty handy, so I'm curious as to what others have done. Just sold my big healey and want to make my TR3 into a more comfortable touring car. Jonas Payne PBR Consulting 702-882-6711 ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From fogbro1 at comcast.net Tue Jan 22 19:37:24 2013 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2013 02:37:24 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3 Rack and Pinion In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <467225109.257554.1358908644049.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> List, B Anyone that contemplates the change to rack and pinion on his TR3 should find one that's been converted and take it for a test drive first. Doing so proved to me that I'd never want it in my car. It steers like a '57 Plymouth Belvedere : no road feel at all. Just my opinion. Yours may vary. B Ed Woods ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jonas Payne" < jagmog @ hotmail .com> To: triumphs@ autox .team.net Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2013 8:26:20 PM Subject: [TR] TR3 Gear Ratios Anybody out there know what the gear ratios for a TR3 were? Considering a T5 swap (over the Toyota) and want to insure that the performance is close (or improved). Also - anybody want to weigh in on a rack and pinion conversion? B The kits seem a bit overpriced, and I'm pretty handy, so I'm curious as to what others have done. Just sold my big healey and want to make my TR3 into a more comfortable touring car. Jonas Payne PBR Consulting 702-882-6711 ** triumphs@ autox .team.net ** Donate: http:// www .team.net/donate.html Archive: http:// www .team.net/archive Forums: http:// www .team.net/forums Unsubscribe /Manage: http:// autox .team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fogbro1 at comcast.net From jagmog at hotmail.com Tue Jan 22 20:12:00 2013 From: jagmog at hotmail.com (Jonas Payne) Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2013 19:12:00 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3 Rack and Pinion In-Reply-To: <467225109.257554.1358908644049.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <467225109.257554.1358908644049.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Wowb&b&b&food for thought MGbs and TR4bs have them and donbt fail to feel too sporty, My XK 150 on the other hand is another animal altogether, but certainly better than the contemporary American Iron. Morgans use the same burman box that TRbs do and there is really no comparison between the two. Frankly, the Morgan feels more precise than the TR on any but the roughest surfaces. Healey uses a wormgear too, but there is no comparison between that and a TR either, Healey goes (went) down the road with great feel and response. The TR is like Mr. Toads Wild Ride. Feels more like a MGTC than competition for an MGA . Would rather push the TR than drive an MG, but admittedly, the steering is crude. Jonas Payne PBR Consulting 702-882-6711 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net [mailto:fogbro1 at comcast.net] Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2013 6:37 PM To: Jonas Payne Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: TR3 Rack and Pinion List, Anyone that contemplates the change to rack and pinion on his TR3 should find one that's been converted and take it for a test drive first. Doing so proved to me that I'd never want it in my car. It steers like a '57 Plymouth Belvedere: no road feel at all. Just my opinion. Yours may vary. Ed Woods _____ From: "Jonas Payne" To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2013 8:26:20 PM Subject: [TR] TR3 Gear Ratios Anybody out there know what the gear ratios for a TR3 were? Considering a T5 swap (over the Toyota) and want to insure that the performance is close (or improved). Also - anybody want to weigh in on a rack and pinion conversion? The kits seem a bit overpriced, and I'm pretty handy, so I'm curious as to what others have done. Just sold my big healey and want to make my TR3 into a more comfortable touring car. Jonas Payne PBR Consulting 702-882-6711 ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fogbro1 at comcast.net From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jan 22 20:41:40 2013 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2013 19:41:40 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3 Gear Ratios In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <12.8D.25887.0FB5FF05@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> > Anybody out there know what the gear ratios for a TR3 were? >From Practical Hints 4th ed: 1st 3.38 2nd 2.00 2nd OD 1.64 3rd 1.325 3rd OD 1.09 4th 1.00 4th OD 0.82 > Considering a T5 swap (over the Toyota) and want to insure > that the performance is close (or improved). My opinion, the stock 1st gear is too low for good performance. I prefer the later 3.14 ratio (which is what I have in my TR3). > Also - anybody want to weigh in on a rack and pinion > conversion? The kits seem a bit overpriced, and I'm pretty > handy, so I'm curious as to what others have done. Bob Schaller sketched a home-brew conversion in "More BS about TRs". Personally, I don't see the point. The stock steering can be made to work quite well and the conversions lose at least part of the function of the control head (which seems like part of the charm of the car, to me). But then, I would never trade my overdrive for a mere 5 speed either! > Just sold my big healey and want to make my TR3 into a more > comfortable touring car. I drive mine practically every day, put over 200,000 miles on the previous TR3A (before it got wrecked). IMO the best improvements for a touring car would be wider wheels (so you can use modern tires that both grip and ride better) and putting UHMW (or Teflon) between the rear spring leaves. Add an electric fan (for stop and go traffic) and you have a car that you can drive anywhere. One of my plans for after I retire is to drive what remains of Route 66 from LA to Chicago in my Tr3. Then maybe US 60 on the way back. Although it has no trouble at all running at 70-80 mph on the Interstate, I find the ride much more enjoyable at 60 with frequent stops. Randall From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Tue Jan 22 22:31:01 2013 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2013 21:31:01 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] TR3 Gear Ratios In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1358919061.97444.YahooMailNeo@web120004.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Jonas made my own T5 conversion and never regretted. works great, best upgrade i did Frank ________________________________ From: Jonas Payne To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2013 5:26 PM Subject: [TR] TR3 Gear Ratios Anybody out there know what the gear ratios for a TR3 were? Considering a T5 swap (over the Toyota) and want to insure that the performance is close (or improved). Also - anybody want to weigh in on a rack and pinion conversion? The kits seem a bit overpriced, and I'm pretty handy, so I'm curious as to what others have done. Just sold my big healey and want to make my TR3 into a more comfortable touring car. Jonas Payne PBR Consulting 702-882-6711 ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From aljlthomson at charter.net Wed Jan 23 04:49:57 2013 From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex&Janet Thomson) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2013 06:49:57 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Gear Ratios In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000001cdf95f$c4957170$4dc05450$@charter.net> My brother installed the rack & pinion kit on a TR3A and the difference was unimaginable. With the kit, you could actually steer the car, effort was half of what it was and you could keep it straight on the road without exercising your wrists all the time. Of course, the original steering gear could have been well wiped out and a new sector, worm and bushings could have solved the problems. The only issue that I noticed was that the new tie rod ends seemed to be at an extreme downward angle to meet the steering arms. Also, the regular fan has to be ditched for an electric fan in order to free up sufficient room for the rack. I can't remember who sold the kit but the end result was that the car was much more pleasant to drive. Alex Thomson -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jonas Payne Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2013 8:26 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR3 Gear Ratios Anybody out there know what the gear ratios for a TR3 were? Considering a T5 swap (over the Toyota) and want to insure that the performance is close (or improved). Also - anybody want to weigh in on a rack and pinion conversion? The kits seem a bit overpriced, and I'm pretty handy, so I'm curious as to what others have done. Just sold my big healey and want to make my TR3 into a more comfortable touring car. Jonas Payne PBR Consulting 702-882-6711 ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net From auprichard at uprichard.net Wed Jan 23 06:36:49 2013 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2013 08:36:49 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Rack and Pinion In-Reply-To: <467225109.257554.1358908644049.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <467225109.257554.1358908644049.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <000901cdf96e$b42d7850$1c8868f0$@uprichard.net> I seem to remember a conversation on this page a couple of years ago: what are the best things you can do to a TR3? As I remember it, they were (a) overdrive, and (b) rack and pinion. I have both - one car with and one without. I'd recommend the conversion. I installed a bolt-on model which was easy to work with. Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of fogbro1 at comcast.net Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2013 9:37 PM To: Jonas Payne Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR3 Rack and Pinion List, B Anyone that contemplates the change to rack and pinion on his TR3 should find one that's been converted and take it for a test drive first. Doing so proved to me that I'd never want it in my car. It steers like a '57 Plymouth Belvedere : no road feel at all. Just my opinion. Yours may vary. B Ed Woods ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jonas Payne" < jagmog @ hotmail .com> To: triumphs@ autox .team.net Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2013 8:26:20 PM Subject: [TR] TR3 Gear Ratios Anybody out there know what the gear ratios for a TR3 were? Considering a T5 swap (over the Toyota) and want to insure that the performance is close (or improved). Also - anybody want to weigh in on a rack and pinion conversion? B The kits seem a bit overpriced, and I'm pretty handy, so I'm curious as to what others have done. Just sold my big healey and want to make my TR3 into a more comfortable touring car. Jonas Payne PBR Consulting 702-882-6711 ** triumphs@ autox .team.net ** Donate: http:// www .team.net/donate.html Archive: http:// www .team.net/archive Forums: http:// www .team.net/forums Unsubscribe /Manage: http:// autox .team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fogbro1 at comcast.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From tr3a.60 at gmail.com Wed Jan 23 07:29:08 2013 From: tr3a.60 at gmail.com (John Wise) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2013 09:29:08 -0500 Subject: [TR] winter driving/side curtains In-Reply-To: <3219845E-ABE1-441D-8D1D-330A95EC474A@sbcglobal.net> References: <1358809444.70036.YahooMailNeo@web120605.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <3219845E-ABE1-441D-8D1D-330A95EC474A@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <97DCFF20-7954-4DCD-9F61-84BDCB000650@gmail.com> I did my graduate work at Univ of Pittsburgh and at the time I had a 58 MGA. The first year I drove an over an hour each way (we were living with my in-laws to save money) driving up and down the Western Penn hills to to & from the University. I never got stuck (I had been a USAF pilot & used a lot of energy management skills). But I did carry "single loop" plastic chains just in case. I made a few mods to my side curtains to hold them relatively tight to the windscreen at speed. In addition I always wore my USAF Survival parka and heavy gloves during the winter. The "heater" kind of kept my toes from from frostbite inside my USAF jump-boots and heavy socks. The last three years we lived in Pittsburgh and my major challenge was getting up the rather steep hill to our home on snowy nights. The streets were brick and worn rather smooth from decades of use. Energy management was tough because I have to a 90 degree turn on the steep hill - so I employed the single loop chains many nights and continued to wear my survival parka. :-) Ah, those are the days. :-) John John Wise Ormond Beach, FL 1960 TR3A http://wisegroupllc.org/_/TR3A.html 1977 Porsche 911S ('86 3.2 engine) http://wisegroupllc.org/_/Porsche.html From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Wed Jan 23 12:39:44 2013 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2013 11:39:44 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Your own T5 Conversion Message-ID: <1358969984.12099.YahooMailNeo@web180905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> So Frank, How does someone who isn't HVDA make his own T5 conversion? Sounds pretty daunting to me. Can you fill us in? About 10 years ago I wrote up how to weld in TR3 floors with the body on frame. It still exists in cyberspace. Maybe you can do the same with you T5 conversion. Here is a link to my floor replacement write-up. http://obswww.unige.ch/~wildif/cars/docs/TR3_Floor_replacement.pdf My TR6 OD trans in my TR3 rattles when accelerating or going up hills. I think that when I change it out I'll go to a 5-speed. -Bill in Tehachapi From: Frank Fisher To: Jonas Payne , "triumphs at autox.team.net" Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Gear Ratios Message-ID: <1358919061.97444.YahooMailNeo at web120004.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Jonas made my own T5 conversion and never regretted. works great, best upgrade i did Frank From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Wed Jan 23 14:06:07 2013 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2013 13:06:07 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Your own T5 Conversion In-Reply-To: <1358969984.12099.YahooMailNeo@web180905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1358969984.12099.YahooMailNeo@web180905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1358975167.98428.YahooMailNeo@web120006.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Hey BillFor the last 15 years I have been running a manufacturing facility that I had equipped with CNC machining centers. Being an engineer Ibm always up for a challenge. B The biggest challenge was the bell housing. B My first thought with the Toyota trans was to take a big block of aluminum and machine the heck out of it till I had a nice bell housing. Thatbs what I really wanted to do. But I had some trouble finding a block of aluminum that size and at a reasonable cost. B Next I contemplated cutting and welding the triumph to a Toyota and then making a casting. I was going to get help from a little specialty company here in los angeles called something like Barrios. That too was getting expensive. B Then my brother in law in Australia found a guy who makes conversions for all kinds of cars and transmissions. So I reluctantly sucked it up and bought one. Well 2. One for me and one for my BBF. It wasnbt how I wanted to do it, but $$ rule. B I did machine: custom pilot bushing custom bracket to take the triumph standard slave cylinder. Custom slave cylinder push bar. little machining on the bell housing to use the standard Toyota thrust bearing fork. Machine flywheel to accept Toyota pressure plate and clutch plate. Modify the prop shaft so its triumph one end and Toyota the other. B And hence I had kinda made my own kit. B Ibm willing to help friends who want to try their hand at it; I still have the cad drawings of the parts. Photographs also. This list I consider friends for all the help I get here. B But I donbt want to post on the web as an alternate to Hermanbs kit. Herman is a fellow club member and does this as a source of income. So I do not want to cut him out of his investment. Hebs a fine fellow too. B I like the 5 speed. Itbs easy to shift into and rarely has problems. You can hardly tell itbs not standard as I used the TR3 slave cylinder. And if the 5 speed dies they are replaceable at about 250.00 a time. B your not a million miles from me and one of these days we need to find a 1/2 point and share some refreshment, and show off my trans. B Frank From: William Brewer To: Triumphs Cc: "yellowtr3 at yahoo.com" Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2013 11:39 AM Subject: Your own T5 Conversion So Frank, B B B B How does someone who isn't HVDA make his own T5 conversion? Sounds pretty daunting to me. Can you fill us in? B B B B About 10 years ago I wrote up how to weld in TR3 floors with the body on frame. It still exists in cyberspace. Maybe you can do the same with you T5 conversion. B B B B Here is a link to my floor replacement write-up. B B B http://obswww.unige.ch/~wildif/cars/docs/TR3_Floor_replacement.pdf B B B B My TR6 OD trans in my TR3 rattles when accelerating or going up hills. I think that when I change it out I'll go to a 5-speed. B B B B -Bill in Tehachapi From: Frank Fisher To: Jonas Payne , "triumphs at autox.team.net" B B B Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Gear Ratios Message-ID: B B B <1358919061.97444.YahooMailNeo at web120004.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Jonas made my own T5 conversion and never regretted. works great, best upgrade i did Frank From triosan at gmail.com Wed Jan 23 14:54:17 2013 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2013 13:54:17 -0800 Subject: [TR] Your own T5 Conversion In-Reply-To: <1358975167.98428.YahooMailNeo@web120006.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1358969984.12099.YahooMailNeo@web180905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <1358975167.98428.YahooMailNeo@web120006.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: There is a guy who sells a T5 to Triumph ki hee in the US: http://www.dupontmachining.com/ I considered doing but could not get the ratios I wanted for racing. On Wed, Jan 23, 2013 at 1:06 PM, Frank Fisher wrote: > Hey BillFor the last 15 years I have been running a manufacturing facility > that I had equipped with CNC machining centers. > Being an engineer Ib m always > up for a challenge. > B > The biggest challenge was the bell housing. > B > My first > thought with the Toyota trans was to take a big block of aluminum and > machine > the heck out of it till I had a nice bell housing. > Thatb s what I really > wanted to do. > But I had some trouble finding a block of aluminum that size and > at a reasonable cost. > B > Next I contemplated cutting and welding the triumph > to a Toyota and then making a casting. I was going to get help from a > little > specialty company here in los angeles called something like Barrios. > That too > was getting expensive. > B > Then my brother in law in Australia found a guy who > makes conversions for all kinds of cars and transmissions. So I reluctantly > sucked it up and bought one. Well 2. One for me and one for my BBF. > It > wasnb t how I wanted to do it, but $$ rule. > B > I did machine: > custom pilot > bushing > custom bracket to take the triumph standard slave cylinder. > Custom > slave cylinder push bar. > little machining on the bell housing to use the > standard Toyota thrust bearing fork. > Machine flywheel to accept Toyota > pressure plate and clutch plate. > Modify the prop shaft so its triumph one end > and Toyota the other. > B > And hence I had kinda made my own kit. > B > Ib m > willing to help friends who want to try their hand at it; I still have the > cad > drawings of the parts. > Photographs also. > This list I consider friends for all > the help I get here. > B > But I donb t want to post on the web as an alternate > to Hermanb s kit. Herman is a fellow club member and does this as a source > of > income. So I do not want to cut him out of his investment. Heb s a fine > fellow too. > B > I like the 5 speed. Itb s easy to shift into and rarely has > problems. You can hardly tell itb s not standard as I used the TR3 slave > cylinder. > And if the 5 speed dies they are replaceable at about 250.00 a time. > B > your not a million miles from me and one of these days we need to find a > 1/2 point and share some refreshment, and show off my trans. > B > Frank > > From: > William Brewer > To: Triumphs > Cc: "yellowtr3 at yahoo.com" > Sent: Wednesday, January 23, > 2013 11:39 AM > Subject: Your own T5 Conversion > > > So Frank, > B B B B How does > someone who isn't HVDA make his own T5 conversion? Sounds pretty daunting > to > me. Can you fill us in? > B B B B About 10 years ago I wrote up how to weld in > TR3 floors with the body on frame. It still exists in cyberspace. Maybe you > can do the same with you T5 conversion. > B B B B Here is a link to my floor > replacement write-up. > > > B B B > http://obswww.unige.ch/~wildif/cars/docs/TR3_Floor_replacement.pdf > > B B B B > My TR6 OD trans in my TR3 rattles when accelerating or going up hills. I > think > that when I change it out I'll go to a 5-speed. > > B B B B -Bill in Tehachapi > From: Frank Fisher > To: Jonas Payne , > "triumphs at autox.team.net" > B B B > Subject: Re: [TR] > TR3 Gear Ratios > Message-ID: > B B B > <1358919061.97444.YahooMailNeo at web120004.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> > Content-Type: > text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Jonas > made my own T5 conversion and never > regretted. > works great, best upgrade > i did > Frank > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triosan at gmail.com From mhooper at indiefilmnet.com Wed Jan 23 15:17:00 2013 From: mhooper at indiefilmnet.com (Mark Hooper) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2013 17:17:00 -0500 Subject: [TR] Your own T5 Conversion In-Reply-To: <1358975167.98428.YahooMailNeo@web120006.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <66709180.1cdf9b7.ba72568c.a99@indiefilmnet.com> Hi Frank: We're getting to the point where a 3D printer could produce the bell housing. The original printers were using a flow of sintered metals, but I think they are mostly plastics now and not suitable. It will be interesting to see what comes up in the next years. I read of a guy planning to print sections of a large house. That said, I think the existing 3D printers could easily produce the shape for making a casting mould. Mark 1972 TR6 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Fisher Sent: January-23-13 4:06 PM To: William Brewer; Triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] Your own T5 Conversion Hey BillFor the last 15 years I have been running a manufacturing facility that I had equipped with CNC machining centers. Being an engineer Ibm always up for a challenge. B The biggest challenge was the bell housing. B My first thought with the Toyota trans was to take a big block of aluminum and machine the heck out of it till I had a nice bell housing. Thatbs what I really wanted to do. But I had some trouble finding a block of aluminum that size and at a reasonable cost. B Next I contemplated cutting and welding the triumph to a Toyota and then making a casting. I was going to get help from a little specialty company here in los angeles called something like Barrios. That too was getting expensive. From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Wed Jan 23 15:57:58 2013 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2013 14:57:58 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Your own T5 Conversion In-Reply-To: <66709180.1cdf9b7.ba72568c.a99@indiefilmnet.com> References: <1358975167.98428.YahooMailNeo@web120006.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <66709180.1cdf9b7.ba72568c.a99@indiefilmnet.com> Message-ID: <1358981878.22523.YahooMailNeo@web120003.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> wow i have seen the old 3d modelers where they built the model in layers of some kind of epoxy that cured when exposed to laser light. they where pretty crude and very fragile. only seen video of the latest stuff. do you have access to one? i may still have the layout for my original model that i was going to machine out of the "lump" like any technology though im sure its big $$. my Aussie bell housing was just less than 500.00 3 or 4 years ago. Frank From: Mark Hooper To: 'Frank Fisher' ; 'William Brewer' ; 'Triumphs' Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2013 2:17 PM Subject: RE: [TR] Your own T5 Conversion Hi Frank: We're getting to the point where a 3D printer could produce the bell housing. The original printers were using a flow of sintered metals, but I think they are mostly plastics now and not suitable. It will be interesting to see what comes up in the next years. I read of a guy planning to print sections of a large house. That said, I think the existing 3D printers could easily produce the shape for making a casting mould. Mark 1972 TR6 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Fisher Sent: January-23-13 4:06 PM To: William Brewer; Triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] Your own T5 Conversion Hey BillFor the last 15 years I have been running a manufacturing facility that I had equipped with CNC machining centers. Being an engineer Ibm always up for a challenge. B The biggest challenge was the bell housing. B My first thought with the Toyota trans was to take a big block of aluminum and machine the heck out of it till I had a nice bell housing. Thatbs what I really wanted to do. But I had some trouble finding a block of aluminum that size and at a reasonable cost. B Next I contemplated cutting and welding the triumph to a Toyota and then making a casting. I was going to get help from a little specialty company here in los angeles called something like Barrios. That too was getting expensive. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jan 23 17:50:33 2013 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2013 19:50:33 -0500 Subject: [TR] Your own T5 Conversion In-Reply-To: <66709180.1cdf9b7.ba72568c.a99@indiefilmnet.com> Message-ID: <20130124005033.Q3XHC.36878.root@cdptpa-web01-z01> > We're getting to the point where a 3D printer could produce the bell housing. We're already there. I read an article just the other day about a printer that could easily handle a bellhousing in several kinds of metal: http://www.designnews.com/author.asp?section_id=1392&doc_id=256731&dfpPParams=ind_183,industry_auto,bid_27,aid_256731&dfpLayout=blog "Potential materials include high-grade steel alloys, tool steels, aluminum or titanium alloys, nickel-based superalloys, and cobalt-chromium alloys." All it takes is money at the moment. But I expect the prices to continue dropping dramatically as the printers gain acceptance. Some home units are already below $1500 (though they don't handle metal or anything as big as a bellhousing). And the 'toner' is still expensive too, from what I hear. Of course, I'm still not crazy about trying to convert a TR3 into a MR2; I'd rather be making repair parts for A-types --- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jan 23 17:56:42 2013 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2013 19:56:42 -0500 Subject: [TR] Your own T5 Conversion Message-ID: <20130124005642.J8VX9.36905.root@cdptpa-web01-z01> > We're getting to the point where a 3D printer could produce the bell housing. We're already there. I read an article just the other day about a printer that could easily handle a bellhousing in several kinds of metal: http://www.designnews.com/author.asp?section_id=1392&doc_id=256731&dfpPParams=ind_183,industry_auto,bid_27,aid_256731&dfpLayout=blog "Potential materials include high-grade steel alloys, tool steels, aluminum or titanium alloys, nickel-based superalloys, and cobalt-chromium alloys." All it takes is money at the moment. But I expect the prices to continue dropping dramatically as the printers gain acceptance. Some home units are already below $1500 (though they don't handle metal or anything as big as a bellhousing). And the 'toner' is still expensive too, from what I hear. Of course, I'm still not crazy about trying to convert a TR3 into a MR2; I'd rather be making repair parts for A-types --- Randall From mdporter at dfn.com Wed Jan 23 18:46:39 2013 From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2013 18:46:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] Your own T5 Conversion In-Reply-To: <20130124005033.Q3XHC.36878.root@cdptpa-web01-z01> References: <20130124005033.Q3XHC.36878.root@cdptpa-web01-z01> Message-ID: <5100927F.8040907@dfn.com> On 1/23/2013 5:50 PM, Randall wrote: >> We're getting to the point where a 3D printer could produce the bell housing. > We're already there. I read an article just the other day about a printer that could easily handle a bellhousing in several kinds of metal: > http://www.designnews.com/author.asp?section_id=1392&doc_id=256731&dfpPParams=ind_183,industry_auto,bid_27,aid_256731&dfpLayout=blog > "Potential materials include high-grade steel alloys, tool steels, aluminum or titanium alloys, nickel-based superalloys, and cobalt-chromium alloys." > > All it takes is money at the moment. But I expect the prices to continue dropping dramatically as the printers gain acceptance. Some home units are already below $1500 (though they don't handle metal or anything as big as a bellhousing). And the 'toner' is still expensive too, from what I hear. > > Would be a fun toy to have in the shop (although I suspect the purchase price would equal a fleet of Maybachs). But, geez, using a laser "in the kilowatt range...?" With a kilowatt CO2 laser, you could cut a bridge in half.... Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From jagmog at hotmail.com Wed Jan 23 18:54:46 2013 From: jagmog at hotmail.com (Jonas Payne) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2013 17:54:46 -0800 Subject: [TR] Your own T5 Conversion In-Reply-To: <5100927F.8040907@dfn.com> References: <20130124005033.Q3XHC.36878.root@cdptpa-web01-z01> <5100927F.8040907@dfn.com> Message-ID: I invested in a 3 in one lathe/milling machine about 2 years ago - to date, I have corrected 1 brake drum and modified an TR O.D. adapter plate. I haven't the slightest idea of how to really use the thing. There is a reason that there used to be schools, programs and unions to teach people things. Apprentice programs take years, and on the job training takes years more. A quality machine is a door stop - the knowledge, skill and time to use it represent the real cost/value. I have looked at some plasma cutting tables recently - wonderful machines, but unfortunately the user interface isn't dumbed down enough for me to be comfortable with it. Jonas Payne PBR Consulting 702-882-6711 From ptegler at verizon.net Wed Jan 23 19:16:10 2013 From: ptegler at verizon.net (ptegler) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2013 21:16:10 -0500 Subject: [TR] Your own T5 Conversion References: <20130124005033.Q3XHC.36878.root@cdptpa-web01-z01> Message-ID: <285CA809C71B46608A38E6B3CE4F1714@dragonlairii> Anyone playing in the CNC field, (personal or professional) knows the 3D printer world relatively well these days. Even me..., just finished adding steppers to my own mill/lathe for full CNC....now just completed building a dedicated touch screen controller with custom keypad to drive it all (electronics design engineer by profession) The 3D printers best suited to such a project (bell housing) are now being purchased by small companies to replace foundry work. They deposit cintered metal where needed in the layer, and sand around where not. Then a high powered laser fuses the layer. The system repeats until the whole unit is built up. Cl;ear away the sand and you have a part in hand. Right now the biggest industry concern,,, yes... people can print a hand gun! It's been done, and fired. Some guy on youtube even fires an AR-15 where he made the main carrier on a 3D printer. Anything made from plastics, nylon, poly, etc can be made on a 3D printer. Now, even metals of all types. metal examples http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=88BPmL8cGAo kind of plasma cutting in reverse...metal deposition http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iLndYWw5_y8 Zcorp ..wild all in one pieces http://www.zcorp.com/documents/259_650Video.wvx oh..car related...Even Jay Leno has his own 3D printer. He uses it to proto parts ...makes blanks for sand cast molds to make parts he needs not avail anywhere else. nfi...just dreaming what can be done....sooner than you think. :-) Paul Tegler ptegler at verizon.net www.teglerizer.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "'Triumphs'" Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2013 7:50 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Your own T5 Conversion >> We're getting to the point where a 3D printer could produce the bell >> housing. > > We're already there. I read an article just the other day about a printer > that could easily handle a bellhousing in several kinds of metal: > http://www.designnews.com/author.asp?section_id=1392&doc_id=256731&dfpPParams=ind_183,industry_auto,bid_27,aid_256731&dfpLayout=blog > "Potential materials include high-grade steel alloys, tool steels, > aluminum or titanium alloys, nickel-based superalloys, and cobalt-chromium > alloys." > > All it takes is money at the moment. But I expect the prices to continue > dropping dramatically as the printers gain acceptance. Some home units > are already below $1500 (though they don't handle metal or anything as big > as a bellhousing). And the 'toner' is still expensive too, from what I > hear. > > Of course, I'm still not crazy about trying to convert a TR3 into a MR2; > I'd rather be making repair parts for A-types > > --- Randall > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net From kinderlehrer at comcast.net Wed Jan 23 20:22:35 2013 From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2013 19:22:35 -0800 Subject: [TR] Your own T5 Conversion In-Reply-To: References: <20130124005033.Q3XHC.36878.root@cdptpa-web01-z01> <5100927F.8040907@dfn.com> Message-ID: <002301cdf9e2$0e808040$2b8180c0$@net> All depends on where you live. If there is a Tech Shop near you, check it out: http://www.techshop.ws/ I have a friend that teaches at several of them and he is encouraging me to join, which I probably will as soon as I start my next major project. Yes, they have 3D printers as well as machining tools and they are pretty good at staying up with technology, or so I'm told. Bob -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jonas Payne Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2013 5:55 PM To: 'Michael Porter'; 'Randall' Cc: 'Triumphs' Subject: Re: [TR] Your own T5 Conversion I invested in a 3 in one lathe/milling machine about 2 years ago - to date, I have corrected 1 brake drum and modified an TR O.D. adapter plate. I haven't the slightest idea of how to really use the thing. There is a reason that there used to be schools, programs and unions to teach people things. Apprentice programs take years, and on the job training takes years more. A quality machine is a door stop - the knowledge, skill and time to use it represent the real cost/value. I have looked at some plasma cutting tables recently - wonderful machines, but unfortunately the user interface isn't dumbed down enough for me to be comfortable with it. Jonas Payne PBR Consulting 702-882-6711 ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/kinderlehrer at comcast.net From glemon at neb.rr.com Wed Jan 23 21:28:44 2013 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2013 22:28:44 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 Gear Ratios In-Reply-To: <000001cdf95f$c4957170$4dc05450$@charter.net> References: <000001cdf95f$c4957170$4dc05450$@charter.net> Message-ID: <0E79CBCEEA4744BEA8947C6AE27D898A@livingroompc> My brother installed a R & P conversion to his TR3A as well, he did not use a kit, but a TR7 rack (which is apparently narrower than a TR4 rack and fits better) and some fabricated bolt on attachment brackets a club member made up. I think the biggest issue is figuring out the steering wheel and turn signal arrange, since you don't have the stator tube and control head type arrengement easily mated to to rack, you have to have some u joints in the mix I believe. All statements qualified because I didn't do the work myself so specifics are a little fuzzy. Greg Lemon -------------------------------------------------- From: "Alex&Janet Thomson" Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2013 5:49 AM To: "'Jonas Payne'" ; Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Gear Ratios > My brother installed the rack & pinion kit on a TR3A and the difference > was > unimaginable. With the kit, you could actually steer the car, effort was > half of what it was and you could keep it straight on the road without > exercising your wrists all the time. Of course, the original steering gear > could have been well wiped out and a new sector, worm and bushings could > have solved the problems. The only issue that I noticed was that the new > tie > rod ends seemed to be at an extreme downward angle to meet the steering > arms. Also, the regular fan has to be ditched for an electric fan in order > to free up sufficient room for the rack. I can't remember who sold the kit > but the end result was that the car was much more pleasant to drive. > > Alex Thomson > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jonas Payne > Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2013 8:26 PM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] TR3 Gear Ratios > > Anybody out there know what the gear ratios for a TR3 were? > > Considering a T5 swap (over the Toyota) and want to insure that the > performance is close (or improved). > > Also - anybody want to weigh in on a rack and pinion conversion? The kits > seem a bit overpriced, and I'm pretty handy, so I'm curious as to what > others have done. > > Just sold my big healey and want to make my TR3 into a more comfortable > touring car. > > Jonas Payne > PBR Consulting > 702-882-6711 > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/glemon at neb.rr.com From mhooper at indiefilmnet.com Thu Jan 24 08:58:00 2013 From: mhooper at indiefilmnet.com (Mark Hooper) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2013 10:58:00 -0500 Subject: [TR] Your own T5 Conversion In-Reply-To: <1358981878.22523.YahooMailNeo@web120003.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <9e3d18b6.1cdfa4b.be3dc5b6.389e@indiefilmnet.com> Hi Frank: Sadly, no access to such fun toys anymore. I am now in digital media, so I've got auto-stereoscopic 3D flat screens that can show you your bell housing floating in the air, but it's "look, don't touch"... As others have noted, printing a real part is still a pretty expensive sounding procedure. Cheers, Mark From: Frank Fisher [mailto:yellowtr3 at yahoo.com] Sent: January-23-13 5:58 PM To: mhooper at indiefilmnet.com; 'William Brewer'; 'Triumphs' Subject: Re: [TR] Your own T5 Conversion wow i have seen the old 3d modelers where they built the model in layers of some kind of epoxy that cured when exposed to laser light. they where pretty crude and very fragile. only seen video of the latest stuff. do you have access to one? i may still have the layout for my original model that i was going to machine out of the "lump" like any technology though im sure its big $$. my Aussie bell housing was just less than 500.00 3 or 4 years ago. Frank From: Mark Hooper To: 'Frank Fisher' ; 'William Brewer' ; 'Triumphs' Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2013 2:17 PM Subject: RE: [TR] Your own T5 Conversion Hi Frank: We're getting to the point where a 3D printer could produce the bell housing. The original printers were using a flow of sintered metals, but I think they are mostly plastics now and not suitable. It will be interesting to see what comes up in the next years. I read of a guy planning to print sections of a large house. That said, I think the existing 3D printers could easily produce the shape for making a casting mould. Mark 1972 TR6 From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Thu Jan 24 09:52:51 2013 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2013 08:52:51 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Your own T5 Conversion In-Reply-To: <9e3d18b6.1cdfa4b.be3dc5b6.389e@indiefilmnet.com> References: <1358981878.22523.YahooMailNeo@web120003.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <9e3d18b6.1cdfa4b.be3dc5b6.389e@indiefilmnet.com> Message-ID: <1359046371.66121.YahooMailNeo@web120001.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> i too have limited access to the CNC machines now. sad face! i did have my bell housing drawn in 3D cad and could add texture and color. i then had a conversion software that turned my cad drawings into G code. but again its all gone! it will be expensive for some time, but its encouraging that replacement or modified parts will become more readily available. but remember that miserable old engineer that sat in the corner growling at you when new technologies where introduced at work? seems im becoming him!!! i could still buy an Australian bell housing for around 500.00 ... humbug From: Mark Hooper To: 'Frank Fisher' ; 'William Brewer' ; 'Triumphs' Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2013 7:58 AM Subject: RE: [TR] Your own T5 Conversion Hi Frank: Sadly, no access to such fun toys anymore. I am now in digital media, so I've got auto-stereoscopic 3D flat screens that can show you your bell housing floating in the air, but it's "look, don't touch"... As others have noted, printing a real part is still a pretty expensive sounding procedure. Cheers, Mark From:Frank Fisher [mailto:yellowtr3 at yahoo.com] Sent: January-23-13 5:58 PM To: mhooper at indiefilmnet.com ; 'William Brewer'; 'Triumphs' Subject: Re: [TR] Your own T5 Conversion wowi have seen the old 3d modelers where they built the model in layers of some kind of epoxy that cured when exposed to laser light.they where pretty crude and very fragile.only seen video of the latest stuff.do you have access to one?i may still have the layout for my original model that i was going to machine out of the "lump"like any technology though im sure its big $$.my Aussie bell housing was just less than 500.00 3 or 4 years ago. Frank From:Mark Hooper < mhooper at indiefilmnet.com > To: 'Frank Fisher' ; 'William Brewer' ; 'Triumphs' < triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2013 2:17 PM Subject: RE: [TR] Your own T5 Conversion Hi Frank: We're getting to the point where a 3D printer could produce the bell housing. The original printers were using a flow of sintered metals, but I think they are mostly plastics now and not suitable. It will be interesting to see what comes up in the next years. I read of a guy planning to print sections of a large house. That said, I think the existing 3D printers could easily produce the shape for making a casting mould. Mark 1972 TR6 From auprichard at uprichard.net Sun Jan 27 14:21:49 2013 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 16:21:49 -0500 Subject: [TR] no news? Message-ID: <00eb01cdfcd4$54f6f730$fee4e590$@uprichard.net> It has been several days since I saw a posting on the list: - Everyone's triumph is purring sweetly - I have been de-listed - No-one is posting Any help would be great. Thanks ! Andrew Uprichard From l1j1s at aol.com Sun Jan 27 14:36:00 2013 From: l1j1s at aol.com (Lawrence Schwartz) Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 16:36:00 -0500 Subject: [TR] Tr-No news is great news Message-ID: <8D5C79AA-38CF-4F98-9F05-999691A387C1@aol.com> Larry Schwartz Sent from my iPhone From mark at bradakis.com Sun Jan 27 14:59:07 2013 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 14:59:07 -0700 Subject: [TR] no news? In-Reply-To: <00eb01cdfcd4$54f6f730$fee4e590$@uprichard.net> References: <00eb01cdfcd4$54f6f730$fee4e590$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <5105A32B.1000807@bradakis.com> The Healey list has been active today. Maybe you need to buy another car ;-) mjb. From wbeech at flash.net Sun Jan 27 14:58:12 2013 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 15:58:12 -0600 Subject: [TR] no news? In-Reply-To: <00eb01cdfcd4$54f6f730$fee4e590$@uprichard.net> References: <00eb01cdfcd4$54f6f730$fee4e590$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: Big car show this weekend, record number of British entrants (19) cars & motorcycles. I am sure I will break something next week. All the best, Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard Sent: Sunday, January 27, 2013 3:22 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] no news? It has been several days since I saw a posting on the list: - Everyone's triumph is purring sweetly - I have been de-listed - No-one is posting Any help would be great. Thanks ! Andrew Uprichard ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Sun Jan 27 16:03:24 2013 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 18:03:24 -0500 Subject: [TR] no news? In-Reply-To: References: <00eb01cdfcd4$54f6f730$fee4e590$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: Ive been heads down working on the 6 and watching Daytona On Jan 27, 2013 4:59 PM, "Wbeech" wrote: > Big car show this weekend, record number of British entrants (19) cars & > motorcycles. > > I am sure I will break something next week. > > All the best, > Bill > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard > Sent: Sunday, January 27, 2013 3:22 PM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] no news? > > It has been several days since I saw a posting on the list: > > - Everyone's triumph is purring sweetly > > - I have been de-listed > > - No-one is posting > > > > Any help would be great. Thanks ! > > Andrew Uprichard > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ccsimonsen at gmail.com From dave at ranteer.com Sun Jan 27 16:44:39 2013 From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave) Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 17:44:39 -0600 Subject: [TR] no news? In-Reply-To: <5105A32B.1000807@bradakis.com> References: <00eb01cdfcd4$54f6f730$fee4e590$@uprichard.net> <5105A32B.1000807@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <838F93E5635F4AD6B6ADF36A1CB6AFE8@Datsun> and get into even more trouble with the wife . . . -----Original Message----- From: Mark J Bradakis Sent: Sunday, January 27, 2013 3:59 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] no news? The Healey list has been active today. Maybe you need to buy another car ;-) From glemon at neb.rr.com Sun Jan 27 17:29:31 2013 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 18:29:31 -0600 Subject: [TR] no news? In-Reply-To: <838F93E5635F4AD6B6ADF36A1CB6AFE8@Datsun> References: <00eb01cdfcd4$54f6f730$fee4e590$@uprichard.net><5105A32B.1000807@bradakis.com> <838F93E5635F4AD6B6ADF36A1CB6AFE8@Datsun> Message-ID: <6E5A443BF39342FF96E0F0AC79CCA10F@livingroompc> Basecoat/learcoat v. Single Stage ZDDP Is all Gas the Same? Silicone Brake Fluid Pertronix v. Points Are no Lead Heads Needed? Overdrive v. 5 Speed Wh didn't we get fuel injection over here? Grose Jets! :) :) :) That should stir somebody up... Anon From mark at bradakis.com Sun Jan 27 18:40:20 2013 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 18:40:20 -0700 Subject: [TR] no news? In-Reply-To: <6E5A443BF39342FF96E0F0AC79CCA10F@livingroompc> References: <00eb01cdfcd4$54f6f730$fee4e590$@uprichard.net><5105A32B.1000807@bradakis.com> <838F93E5635F4AD6B6ADF36A1CB6AFE8@Datsun> <6E5A443BF39342FF96E0F0AC79CCA10F@livingroompc> Message-ID: <5105D704.9030904@bradakis.com> Greg Lemon wrote: > Basecoat/Clearcoat v. Single Stage Oddly enough that traffic on the Healey list I mentioned? Some of it was on this topic. mjb. From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jan 27 20:41:04 2013 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2013 19:41:04 -0800 Subject: [TR] no news? In-Reply-To: <6E5A443BF39342FF96E0F0AC79CCA10F@livingroompc> Message-ID: <46.13.01431.F43F5015@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> > That should stir somebody up... You left out how to lubricate trunnions! Or grunions, which is what my spell checker wants to call them :) -- Randall From yellowtr at adelphia.net Mon Jan 28 06:53:01 2013 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 08:53:01 -0500 Subject: [TR] Tucson Message-ID: <510682BD.3060506@adelphia.net> Hi, To all the listers in Tucson, I will be there from 1 Feb - 16 Feb for the rock and mineral shows. We will be located at "The Rock Show" on Ajo Way. The show runs from 9:30 - 5:30 every day and I would sure like to see a Triumph after the show and have a beer with a fellow lister. We will be staying in our Coleman camper near "The Barn". Would be nice to sit and talk Triumphs after all day talking rocks and minerals! If you need directions/contact info please email me off list. Really looking forward to getting out of NYS and our sub-zero weather for a few weeks! Bob From Chip19474 at aol.com Mon Jan 28 07:46:59 2013 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 09:46:59 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Winter Warning From Standard Triumph:) Message-ID: <298ed.7af1bf2e.3e37e963@aol.com> Suddenly (after 50 degree days last weekend), we bounced back into sub freezing winter with ice, snow, etc so I decided to pull out some old workshop manuals and assorted other Triumph reading and came across this very appropriate winter warning.... "The heater blower is only to augment the airflow through the car in difficult conditions. Do not use it unnecessarily, especially at speed when it is not required. Remember that in winter conditions with the lights on and other accessories in use, the current load will be considerable. In cold weather.....if there is too great a load.....the generator may fail to keep the battery fully charged" Wow.....you gotta love it! Imagine Chevrolet or Ford advising their customers in 1962 not to run the heater fan, headlights and windshield wipers at the same time in winter or risk a dead battery..... Despite the "warning", I did manage to keep my TR3's battery alive enough to keep going back in the 60's during commutes to college in winter with radio, lights, and fan motor on at full voltage.....I guess I would have been more concerned if I paid attention to the AMP gauge but I then I was distracted by the snow coming into the cockpit between the top of the windscreen and the top:) Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1962 TR4 CT2052L From lgmtr6 at yahoo.com Mon Jan 28 07:59:59 2013 From: lgmtr6 at yahoo.com (Triumph List) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 09:59:59 -0500 Subject: [TR] Winter Warning From Standard Triumph:) In-Reply-To: <298ed.7af1bf2e.3e37e963@aol.com> References: <298ed.7af1bf2e.3e37e963@aol.com> Message-ID: <99A358FA-3E15-493B-8899-B42F387FFA46@yahoo.com> Reminds me of the story of when Sir William Lyons visited the Jaguar dealer in New York during a very bad winter storm. The sales rep asked why Jaguar couldn't build a heater sufficient to keep the interior warm. Lyons reply was why is it that Americans cant learn to dress appropriately for the weather! Larry Miceli 58 TR3 73 Stag 74 TR6 Sent from my iPhone On Jan 28, 2013, at 9:46 AM, Chip19474 at aol.com wrote: > Suddenly (after 50 degree days last weekend), we bounced back into sub > freezing winter with ice, snow, etc so I decided to pull out some old workshop > manuals and assorted other Triumph reading and came across this very > appropriate winter warning.... > > "The heater blower is only to augment the airflow through the car in > difficult conditions. Do not use it unnecessarily, especially at speed when it > is not required. Remember that in winter conditions with the lights on and > other accessories in use, the current load will be considerable. In cold > weather.....if there is too great a load.....the generator may fail to keep > the battery fully charged" > > Wow.....you gotta love it! Imagine Chevrolet or Ford advising their > customers in 1962 not to run the heater fan, headlights and windshield wipers at > the same time in winter or risk a dead battery..... > > Despite the "warning", I did manage to keep my TR3's battery alive enough > to keep going back in the 60's during commutes to college in winter with > radio, lights, and fan motor on at full voltage.....I guess I would have been > more concerned if I paid attention to the AMP gauge but I then I was > distracted by the snow coming into the cockpit between the top of the windscreen > and the top:) > > Chip Krout > Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. > Skippack, PA > 1962 TR4 CT2052L > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/lgmtr6 at yahoo.com From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Mon Jan 28 08:12:58 2013 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 08:12:58 -0700 Subject: [TR] Winter Warning From Standard Triumph:) In-Reply-To: <298ed.7af1bf2e.3e37e963@aol.com> References: <298ed.7af1bf2e.3e37e963@aol.com> Message-ID: >From the TRA Philosophy Statement: *...We believe that the person inside an automobile who is cold in the winter and hot in the summer--just like the weather outside--is a more healthy person, who will no doubt live longer than those who drive along in a controlled, unnatural environment.* Geo On Mon, Jan 28, 2013 at 7:46 AM, wrote: > ...Wow.....you gotta love it! Imagine Chevrolet or Ford advising their > customers in 1962 not to run the heater fan, headlights and windshield > wipers at > the same time in winter or risk a dead battery..... From tjwakeman at gmail.com Mon Jan 28 08:18:28 2013 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 08:18:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] Winter Warning From Standard Triumph:) In-Reply-To: <298ed.7af1bf2e.3e37e963@aol.com> References: <298ed.7af1bf2e.3e37e963@aol.com> Message-ID: <510696C4.6070405@gmail.com> On 1/28/13 7:46 AM, Chip19474 at aol.com wrote: > > "The heater blower is only to augment the airflow through the car in > difficult conditions. Do not use it unnecessarily, especially at speed when it > is not required. Remember that in winter conditions with the lights on and > other accessories in use, the current load will be considerable. In cold > weather.....if there is too great a load.....the generator may fail to keep > the battery fully charged" > It wasn't just Triumphs. It appears that the British car industry wanted to discourage driving under adverse conditions. I actually had that happen to me when I was moving from Seattle to the Monterey bay area in an old Land Rover. I was driving the coastal route during a major rain storm. Two speed heater on high speed, wipers wiping, headlights on all day while driving. When I went to start the Land Rover the next morning there was not enough juice to turn over the engine. Neither my Land Rover nor my TR3 has a generator any more so I can use more than two electrical circuits at a time. TeriAnn From mmarr at notwires.com Mon Jan 28 08:38:52 2013 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 09:38:52 -0600 Subject: [TR] Winter Warning From Standard Triumph:) In-Reply-To: <510696C4.6070405@gmail.com> References: <298ed.7af1bf2e.3e37e963@aol.com> <510696C4.6070405@gmail.com> Message-ID: <003f01cdfd6d$93239e20$b96ada60$@com> Heaters were optional extras on many English cars in the 50s and even into the 60s. I had at least two Morris Minors that had no heaters and I am pretty sure my 1960 Ford Popular didn't have one, either. My 66 Imp had one, and it was the height of luxury! MIke -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TeriAnn J. Wakeman Sent: Monday, January 28, 2013 9:18 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Winter Warning From Standard Triumph:) On 1/28/13 7:46 AM, Chip19474 at aol.com wrote: > > "The heater blower is only to augment the airflow through the car in > difficult conditions. Do not use it unnecessarily, especially at > speed when it is not required. Remember that in winter conditions > with the lights on and other accessories in use, the current load > will be considerable. In cold weather.....if there is too great a > load.....the generator may fail to keep the battery fully charged" > It wasn't just Triumphs. It appears that the British car industry wanted to discourage driving under adverse conditions. I actually had that happen to me when I was moving from Seattle to the Monterey bay area in an old Land Rover. I was driving the coastal route during a major rain storm. Two speed heater on high speed, wipers wiping, headlights on all day while driving. When I went to start the Land Rover the next morning there was not enough juice to turn over the engine. Neither my Land Rover nor my TR3 has a generator any more so I can use more than two electrical circuits at a time. TeriAnn ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mmarr at notwires.com From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jan 28 08:44:05 2013 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 07:44:05 -0800 Subject: [TR] Winter Warning From Standard Triumph:) In-Reply-To: <298ed.7af1bf2e.3e37e963@aol.com> Message-ID: <6F.45.25866.3CC96015@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> > "The heater blower is only to augment the airflow through the > car in difficult conditions. Do not use it unnecessarily, Do you mind sharing where that tidbit was? ISTR a note in one of the Triumph manuals that said to use a battery charger after a "winter run", but I can't seem to find that now either. -- Randall From zoboherald at aol.com Mon Jan 28 09:08:08 2013 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 11:08:08 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Winter Warning From Standard Triumph:) In-Reply-To: <6F.45.25866.3CC96015@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> References: <6F.45.25866.3CC96015@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> Message-ID: <8CFCB88CC14B806-1CE4-311F6@webmail-m128.sysops.aol.com> Randall, you beat me to this question! I don't recall seeing it in any Herald or Spitfire literature, which undoubtedly explains why, all these years, I've been able to run heater, lights, wipers and such with no complaints from any part of the charging system, all the while blissfully ignorant of the repercussions! :D --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us -----Original Message----- From: Randall Do you mind sharing where that tidbit was? ISTR a note in one of theTriumph manuals that said to use a battery charger after a "winter run", butI can't seem to find that now either.-- Randall From lherault at bu.edu Mon Jan 28 09:13:34 2013 From: lherault at bu.edu (Ron L'Herault) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 11:13:34 -0500 Subject: [TR] No News Message-ID: <021a01cdfd72$6c406130$44c12390$@bu.edu> No News, or What Killed the Dog is a great comedy routine from the turn of the last century. One should be able to search it on YouTube if you are interested. Ron L From dctr6 at optonline.net Mon Jan 28 09:46:26 2013 From: dctr6 at optonline.net (dennis culligan) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 11:46:26 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Anything "British" happening in/near Indianapolis? Message-ID: <13d111c.133500.13c820d7ace.Webtop.13@optonline.net> List - Looks like I will be here in Indianapolis for at least a week or two. I know it's winter but is there anything LBC-related happening within an hour or two of Indy? Thanks. Dennis Culligan, not in Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U From n197tr4 at cs.com Mon Jan 28 10:08:43 2013 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 12:08:43 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] [6pack] Anything "British" happening in/near Indianapolis? In-Reply-To: <13d111c.133500.13c820d7ace.Webtop.13@optonline.net> References: <13d111c.133500.13c820d7ace.Webtop.13@optonline.net> Message-ID: <8CFCB9142B107E1-160C-320DB@webmail-d021.sysops.aol.com> Dennis, If you were in Iowa, we'd keep you busy. Joe Alexander A. R. E. 645 1st Street Jesup, Iowa 50648 319.464.4711 (cell) n197tr4 at cs.com -----Original Message----- From: dennis culligan To: triumphs ; 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Mon, Jan 28, 2013 10:53 am Subject: [6pack] Anything "British" happening in/near Indianapolis? List - Looks like I will be here in Indianapolis for at least a week or two. I know it's winter but is there anything LBC-related happening within an hour or two of Indy? Thanks. Dennis Culligan, not in Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/n197tr4 at cs.com From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jan 28 10:13:24 2013 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 09:13:24 -0800 Subject: [TR] Winter Warning From Standard Triumph:) In-Reply-To: <8CFCB88CC14B806-1CE4-311F6@webmail-m128.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <90.A7.01431.3B1B6015@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> > which undoubtedly > explains why, all these years, I've been able to run heater, > lights, wipers and such with no complaints from any part of > the charging system, all the while blissfully ignorant of the > repercussions! :D No doubt. I wasn't quite so lucky; used to have a dead battery at least twice a week because the generator just couldn't keep up with a short commute at night in cold rainy (or snowy) weather. At first I tried turning up the control box, but that burned out generators; then I took some measurements and discovered that the total load (on that TR3A) was well over 20 amps (not counting brake lights) while the stock generator was only rated at 19 amps. But part of the problem may have been that I wasn't using "Prince of Darkness" bulbs (the specs in the manual are remarkably low compared to US-spec bulbs) and had rewound the heater motor in search of a bit more heat output. -- Randall From jdinnis at gmail.com Mon Jan 28 10:39:51 2013 From: jdinnis at gmail.com (John Innis) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 11:39:51 -0600 Subject: [TR] Winter Warning From Standard Triumph:) In-Reply-To: <298ed.7af1bf2e.3e37e963@aol.com> References: <298ed.7af1bf2e.3e37e963@aol.com> Message-ID: I can't remember which car it was, but one of the British roadsters from the 60's had an available "cold weather equipment" package. One of the items in that package was a blanket. On Mon, Jan 28, 2013 at 8:46 AM, wrote: > Suddenly (after 50 degree days last weekend), we bounced back into sub > freezing winter with ice, snow, etc so I decided to pull out some old workshop > manuals and assorted other Triumph reading and came across this very > appropriate winter warning.... > > "The heater blower is only to augment the airflow through the car in > difficult conditions. Do not use it unnecessarily, especially at speed when it > is not required. Remember that in winter conditions with the lights on and > other accessories in use, the current load will be considerable. In cold > weather.....if there is too great a load.....the generator may fail to keep > the battery fully charged" > > Wow.....you gotta love it! Imagine Chevrolet or Ford advising their > customers in 1962 not to run the heater fan, headlights and windshield wipers at > the same time in winter or risk a dead battery..... > > Despite the "warning", I did manage to keep my TR3's battery alive enough > to keep going back in the 60's during commutes to college in winter with > radio, lights, and fan motor on at full voltage.....I guess I would have been > more concerned if I paid attention to the AMP gauge but I then I was > distracted by the snow coming into the cockpit between the top of the windscreen > and the top:) > > Chip Krout > Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. > Skippack, PA > 1962 TR4 CT2052L > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jdinnis at gmail.com -- ================================= = Never offend people with style when you = = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown = ================================= From Chip19474 at aol.com Mon Jan 28 13:17:36 2013 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 15:17:36 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Winter Warning From Standard Triumph:) Message-ID: <17683.509e331a.3e3836e0@aol.com> ha, ha, ha.....I used to carry a blanket or two but mostly to keep my girlfriends warm.....ahhhh - those were the days:) In a message dated 1/28/2013 12:39:52 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, jdinnis at gmail.com writes: I can't remember which car it was, but one of the British roadsters from the 60's had an available "cold weather equipment" package. One of the items in that package was a blanket. On Mon, Jan 28, 2013 at 8:46 AM, wrote: > Suddenly (after 50 degree days last weekend), we bounced back into sub > freezing winter with ice, snow, etc so I decided to pull out some old workshop > manuals and assorted other Triumph reading and came across this very > appropriate winter warning.... > > "The heater blower is only to augment the airflow through the car in > difficult conditions. Do not use it unnecessarily, especially at speed when it > is not required. Remember that in winter conditions with the lights on and > other accessories in use, the current load will be considerable. In cold > weather.....if there is too great a load.....the generator may fail to keep > the battery fully charged" > > Wow.....you gotta love it! Imagine Chevrolet or Ford advising their > customers in 1962 not to run the heater fan, headlights and windshield wipers at > the same time in winter or risk a dead battery..... > > Despite the "warning", I did manage to keep my TR3's battery alive enough > to keep going back in the 60's during commutes to college in winter with > radio, lights, and fan motor on at full voltage.....I guess I would have been > more concerned if I paid attention to the AMP gauge but I then I was > distracted by the snow coming into the cockpit between the top of the windscreen > and the top:) > > Chip Krout > Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. > Skippack, PA > 1962 TR4 CT2052L > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jdinnis at gmail.com -- ================================= = Never offend people with style when you = = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown = ================================= From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Mon Jan 28 13:39:47 2013 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 15:39:47 -0500 Subject: [TR] Rear GT6+ steel brake line needed Message-ID: <380-220131128203947579@M2W119.mail2web.com> I'm looking for the steel brake lines, specifically for the GT6+ (for those who need numbers, 309710 and 11), that run from the rear flex hose to the slave cylinder. For those of you in the know,they are bent like a pretzel to clear the upright, Rotoflex etc. As many of the parts specific to the GT6+ are made of unobtainium, as these appear to be, I was wondering if possibly the TR6 rear lines could be used. If the length is right I could bend them to suit my application. What I need is a line that is 13 and 1/2 inches long (measured straight), with a long male 3/8 flare fitting at one end, to mate with the slave cylinder, and a 3/8ths female flare nut, to mate with the flex hose at the other. It appears that the TR6 uses something similar at the rear but I do not have on hand any to measure it. I "could" probably flare my own, but I would rather have them already done as bending the line would be relatively easy - and I hate to order one just to find out it won't work - Anybody have a TR6 rear one the bench, or in their spare parts box that they could measure? Barry - -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web.com  Enhanced email for the mobile individual based on Microsoft. Exchange - http://link.mail2web.com/Personal/EnhancedEmail From ptegler at verizon.net Mon Jan 28 14:44:14 2013 From: ptegler at verizon.net (ptegler) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 16:44:14 -0500 Subject: [TR] Rear GT6+ steel brake line needed References: <380-220131128203947579@M2W119.mail2web.com> Message-ID: ...you also need a bubble flare at the cyl end and an inverted flare at the flex hose connection. yep..had to make my own for the same reason (NLA) My issues were two fold though. On my roto setup I stayed with the rear Spit style connections so had to custom bend the cyl hard pipes to come around the back side, rather than just down and forward. I welded a tab to the backplate to support the interconnect as stock and the flex lines run up like stock Spit lines. Paul Tegler ptegler at verizon.net www.teglerizer.com ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Cc: Sent: Monday, January 28, 2013 3:39 PM Subject: [TR] Rear GT6+ steel brake line needed > I'm looking for the steel brake lines, specifically for the GT6+ (for > those > who need numbers, 309710 and 11), that run from the rear flex hose to the > slave cylinder. For those of you in the know,they are bent like a pretzel > to clear the upright, Rotoflex etc. > As many of the parts specific to the GT6+ are made of unobtainium, as > these > appear to be, I was wondering if possibly the TR6 rear lines could be > used. > If the length is right I could bend them to suit my application. > What I need is a line that is 13 and 1/2 inches long (measured straight), > with a long male 3/8 flare fitting at one end, to mate with the slave > cylinder, and a 3/8ths female flare nut, to mate with the flex hose at the > other. > It appears that the TR6 uses something similar at the rear but I do not > have on hand any to measure it. > I "could" probably flare my own, but I would rather have them already done > as bending the line would be relatively easy - and I hate to order one > just > to find out it won't work - > Anybody have a TR6 rear one the bench, or in their spare parts box that > they could measure? > > Barry - > > -------------------------------------------------------------------- > mail2web.com  Enhanced email for the mobile individual based on > Microsoft. > Exchange - http://link.mail2web.com/Personal/EnhancedEmail > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Mon Jan 28 15:15:30 2013 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 15:15:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Anything "British" happening in/near Indianapolis? In-Reply-To: <8CFCB9142B107E1-160C-320DB@webmail-d021.sysops.aol.com> References: <13d111c.133500.13c820d7ace.Webtop.13@optonline.net> <8CFCB9142B107E1-160C-320DB@webmail-d021.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: This is an opportunity to remind all to please let me know if they plan to be in the Tucson area as there are many LBCs things afoot this time of year. For example, in reply to Bob L's recent message about a Tucson visit next month there were 5 British car events during the 16 days he will be in town. Warmer than Iowa too. Geo On Mon, Jan 28, 2013 at 10:08 AM, Joe Alexander wrote: > Dennis, If you were in Iowa, we'd keep you busy. > > Joe Alexander > A. R. E. > 645 1st Street > Jesup, Iowa 50648 > 319.464.4711 (cell) > n197tr4 at cs.com > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: dennis culligan > To: triumphs ; 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> > Sent: Mon, Jan 28, 2013 10:53 am > Subject: [6pack] Anything "British" happening in/near Indianapolis? > > > List - > Looks like I will be here in Indianapolis for at least a week or two. > I know it's > winter but is there anything LBC-related happening within an hour or two > of Indy? > Thanks. > Dennis Culligan, not in Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/n197tr4 at cs.com > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com From ols at bcdef.net Mon Jan 28 15:28:18 2013 From: ols at bcdef.net (Alexander Delis) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 17:28:18 -0500 Subject: [TR] Rear GT6+ steel brake line needed In-Reply-To: <380-220131128203947579@M2W119.mail2web.com> References: <380-220131128203947579@M2W119.mail2web.com> Message-ID: Have you tried SpitBits? It LOOKS like they have what you are looking for. Very nice people and very knowledgeable (NFA) Alex On Jan 28, 2013, at 3:39 pm, v6spitfireguy at cox.net wrote: > I'm looking for the steel brake lines, specifically for the GT6+ (for those > who need numbers, 309710 and 11), that run from the rear flex hose to the > slave cylinder. For those of you in the know,they are bent like a pretzel > to clear the upright, Rotoflex etc. > As many of the parts specific to the GT6+ are made of unobtainium, as these > appear to be, I was wondering if possibly the TR6 rear lines could be used. > If the length is right I could bend them to suit my application. > What I need is a line that is 13 and 1/2 inches long (measured straight), > with a long male 3/8 flare fitting at one end, to mate with the slave > cylinder, and a 3/8ths female flare nut, to mate with the flex hose at the > other. > It appears that the TR6 uses something similar at the rear but I do not > have on hand any to measure it. > I "could" probably flare my own, but I would rather have them already done > as bending the line would be relatively easy - and I hate to order one just > to find out it won't work - > Anybody have a TR6 rear one the bench, or in their spare parts box that > they could measure? > > Barry - > > -------------------------------------------------------------------- > mail2web.com  Enhanced email for the mobile individual based on Microsoft. > Exchange - http://link.mail2web.com/Personal/EnhancedEmail > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ols at bcdef.net 1958 TR3 TS33884LO 1968 GT6 KC10303 From wbeech at flash.net Mon Jan 28 16:25:51 2013 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 17:25:51 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3B timing chain slack Message-ID: <8FAD578946A54F5FB9B2ABF19A6E7F22@bboffice> What is an acceptable amount of slack in the TR3B (TCF) timing chain? With all the slack on the tensioner side I can measure 25mm of play. Is this OK? Thanks, Bill; From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Mon Jan 28 16:35:18 2013 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 15:35:18 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] TR3B timing chain slack In-Reply-To: <8FAD578946A54F5FB9B2ABF19A6E7F22@bboffice> References: <8FAD578946A54F5FB9B2ABF19A6E7F22@bboffice> Message-ID: <1359416118.31914.YahooMailNeo@web120001.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> how are you measuring the slack? there is a spring at the side that tensions it, but not until you put the timing cover on. Frank From: Wbeech To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, January 28, 2013 3:25 PM Subject: [TR] TR3B timing chain slack What is an acceptable amount of slack in the TR3B (TCF) timing chain? With all the slack on the tensioner side I can measure 25mm of play. Is this OK? Thanks, Bill; ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From wbeech at flash.net Mon Jan 28 16:55:20 2013 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 17:55:20 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3B timing chain slack In-Reply-To: <1359416118.31914.YahooMailNeo@web120001.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <8FAD578946A54F5FB9B2ABF19A6E7F22@bboffice> <1359416118.31914.YahooMailNeo@web120001.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <796FDE036D23417A995D8BC2D91A91AB@bboffice> Measuring horizontally at the center bolt with the tensioner removed. There is very little side play, I don't know about any rattle noise as I have never driven this engine although it seems very sound. In side of the cover is sludge/crud free. Bill _____ From: Frank Fisher [mailto:yellowtr3 at yahoo.com] Sent: Monday, January 28, 2013 5:35 PM To: Wbeech; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3B timing chain slack how are you measuring the slack? there is a spring at the side that tensions it, but not until you put the timing cover on. Frank From: Wbeech To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, January 28, 2013 3:25 PM Subject: [TR] TR3B timing chain slack What is an acceptable amount of slack in the TR3B (TCF) timing chain? With all the slack on the tensioner side I can measure 25mm of play. Is this OK? Thanks, Bill; ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From glemon at neb.rr.com Mon Jan 28 17:07:28 2013 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 18:07:28 -0600 Subject: [TR] Rear GT6+ steel brake line needed In-Reply-To: References: <380-220131128203947579@M2W119.mail2web.com> Message-ID: <0FB74FFD9E2B46CD9AAA8CD7475D8DF7@livingroompc> I used a local "clutch and brake" shop to make a couple lines for my car, if you have something like that or a shop that specializes in hydraulics, and ideally owned and or run by old timers who were around when LBCs were a little more current, they should be able to do the appropriate flares if you have the hardware, they may have the hardware too. If you need specific hardware these guys can probably help, as well as maybe the usual suspects. http://store.fedhillusa.com/britishgirlingbrakelinenutsandfittings.aspx Greg Lemon From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Mon Jan 28 17:20:48 2013 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 17:20:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3B timing chain slack In-Reply-To: <8FAD578946A54F5FB9B2ABF19A6E7F22@bboffice> References: <8FAD578946A54F5FB9B2ABF19A6E7F22@bboffice> Message-ID: Bill - I know this is in the manual somewhere -- but couldn't find it just now. But my notes from the last time I did this say "per manual, slack of < 0.4" is acceptable". What's a mm? Geo On Mon, Jan 28, 2013 at 4:25 PM, Wbeech wrote: > What is an acceptable amount of slack in the TR3B (TCF) timing chain? With > all the slack on the tensioner side I can measure 25mm of play. Is this > OK? > Thanks, > Bill; From wbeech at flash.net Mon Jan 28 17:38:34 2013 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 18:38:34 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3B timing chain slack In-Reply-To: References: <8FAD578946A54F5FB9B2ABF19A6E7F22@bboffice> Message-ID: <96F5CBABDD5242CDBC4F756A63A54595@bboffice> mm+Millimeter, about 1 inch, so more than double your noted amount. Guess I'll buy a new chain. TRF lists three different qualities of timing chains: 1. AE brand $19.95 2. Replica $9.95 3. Renold $48.93 Or, Moss just lists one at $9.95 Just for the weekend driver, does anyone have any expereince with these? Thnaks, Bill _____ From: Geo Hahn [mailto:ahwahneetr at gmail.com] Sent: Monday, January 28, 2013 6:21 PM To: Wbeech Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3B timing chain slack Bill - I know this is in the manual somewhere -- but couldn't find it just now. But my notes from the last time I did this say "per manual, slack of < 0.4" is acceptable". What's a mm? Geo On Mon, Jan 28, 2013 at 4:25 PM, Wbeech wrote: What is an acceptable amount of slack in the TR3B (TCF) timing chain? With all the slack on the tensioner side I can measure 25mm of play. Is this OK? Thanks, Bill; From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Mon Jan 28 17:41:28 2013 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 17:41:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3B timing chain slack In-Reply-To: <96F5CBABDD5242CDBC4F756A63A54595@bboffice> References: <8FAD578946A54F5FB9B2ABF19A6E7F22@bboffice> <96F5CBABDD5242CDBC4F756A63A54595@bboffice> Message-ID: Bill - Yeah, I really knew what mm meant -- I was just shocked (shocked, I say) to see that unit of measure used on a TR3 post. I agree that an inch sounds like too much slack. What you might also think about is whether excessive wear on the sprockets is part of the equation. Geo On Mon, Jan 28, 2013 at 5:38 PM, Wbeech wrote: > ** > mm+Millimeter, about 1 inch, so more than double your noted amount. Guess > I'll buy a new chain. From agraham at execulink.com Mon Jan 28 17:53:02 2013 From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 19:53:02 -0500 Subject: [TR] Battery trickle charger Message-ID: <51071D6E.30002@execulink.com> Hello List: My "el cheapo" 750 mA battery charger just bit the dust. Second one in a few years to fail. Purchased them from our local/national auto supply store (Canadian Tire). Just wondering if there is a more reliable alternative available in the 750 mA range to keep the battery alive through the winter storage period. This winter I have left the battery in the car with the trickle charger connected. Maybe I should remove it and take it inside? Thanks for any leads or brand names. Angelo Graham From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Mon Jan 28 17:57:53 2013 From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 19:57:53 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] TR3B timing chain slack Message-ID: <1a6a9.227262e2.3e387891@aol.com> The timing chain on my early TR3A began rattling very noisily. When I replaced it, I went with the Renold brand. I can't say if it's better than the others, though reports suggested it was far superior. Although I have driven the car over a summer since, I don't think that's really enough time to say whether or not it's performance is superior to the others. Tim In a message dated 28/01/2013 7:48:08 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, wbeech at flash.net writes: mm+Millimeter, about 1 inch, so more than double your noted amount. Guess I'll buy a new chain. TRF lists three different qualities of timing chains: 1. AE brand $19.95 2. Replica $9.95 3. Renold $48.93 Or, Moss just lists one at $9.95 Just for the weekend driver, does anyone have any expereince with these? Thnaks, Bill _____ From: Geo Hahn [mailto:ahwahneetr at gmail.com] Sent: Monday, January 28, 2013 6:21 PM To: Wbeech Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3B timing chain slack Bill - I know this is in the manual somewhere -- but couldn't find it just now. But my notes from the last time I did this say "per manual, slack of < 0.4" is acceptable". What's a mm? Geo On Mon, Jan 28, 2013 at 4:25 PM, Wbeech wrote: What is an acceptable amount of slack in the TR3B (TCF) timing chain? With all the slack on the tensioner side I can measure 25mm of play. Is this OK? Thanks, Bill; ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/kingscreektrees at aol.com From aljlthomson at charter.net Mon Jan 28 18:14:36 2013 From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex&Janet Thomson) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 20:14:36 -0500 Subject: [TR] Battery trickle charger In-Reply-To: <51071D6E.30002@execulink.com> References: <51071D6E.30002@execulink.com> Message-ID: <003801cdfdbe$00fb86b0$02f29410$@charter.net> I have several chargers, including a fairly new Sears 10 amp automatic and a NAPA 3 amp unit that is at least twenty five years old (It still has the Balkamp name). I try to do a charger rotation, placing the charger on a vehicle for about a day or so. With 2 Triumphs and about 8 farm tractors that don't get any use during the winter, this method seems to work for me. I think I would be a little leery of keeping a maintenance charger hooked up continuously to a battery plus I don't plan on buying 10 small chargers. Now, I do know that upper end stand-by generators are usually equipped with a float charger that stays connected all of the time. Of course, those are not 29.99 units, either. Rotating the charger(s) around a bunch of vehicles also provides an opportunity for a once per month check of everything, as well. "Battery Tender" is one big name in maintenance chargers and MacNeil Automotive Products has one as well. http://batterytender.com/ http://www.weathertech.com/ Alex Thomson -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Angelo Graham Sent: Monday, January 28, 2013 7:53 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Battery trickle charger Hello List: My "el cheapo" 750 mA battery charger just bit the dust. Second one in a few years to fail. Purchased them from our local/national auto supply store (Canadian Tire). Just wondering if there is a more reliable alternative available in the 750 mA range to keep the battery alive through the winter storage period. This winter I have left the battery in the car with the trickle charger connected. Maybe I should remove it and take it inside? Thanks for any leads or brand names. Angelo Graham ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Mon Jan 28 18:48:29 2013 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 20:48:29 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3B timing chain slack In-Reply-To: <1a6a9.227262e2.3e387891@aol.com> References: <1a6a9.227262e2.3e387891@aol.com> Message-ID: I've heard chains and gears wear together. With an inch of slack, I'd make sure the gear teeth have enough depth left to do their job. The gears on my tr2 were shallow and quite sharp. I bit the bullet and replaced the set. From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Mon Jan 28 18:52:29 2013 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 18:52:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] Battery trickle charger In-Reply-To: <51071D6E.30002@execulink.com> References: <51071D6E.30002@execulink.com> Message-ID: Coincidentally this topic just came up on another list and someone whose opinion I value spoke highly of this unit: Battery Tender Haven't used it myself (live where we drive all year) but looks good. Geo On Mon, Jan 28, 2013 at 5:53 PM, Angelo Graham wrote: > Hello List: > My "el cheapo" 750 mA battery charger just bit the dust. Second one in a > few years to fail. Purchased them from our local/national auto supply store > (Canadian Tire). > Just wondering if there is a more reliable alternative available in the > 750 mA range to keep the battery alive through the winter storage period. > This winter I have left the battery in the car with the trickle charger > connected. Maybe I should remove it and take it inside? > Thanks for any leads or brand names. > Angelo Graham From pethier at comcast.net Mon Jan 28 18:55:04 2013 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 01:55:04 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Battery trickle charger In-Reply-To: <003801cdfdbe$00fb86b0$02f29410$@charter.net> Message-ID: <235460355.180210.1359424504228.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> I got Schumacher brand 1.5 amp "float" tenders at Walmart. Less than 20 bucks. Keep one on the Stag all the time. No trouble. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier at comcast.net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica http://www.mnautox.com http://www.mntriumphs.org From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Mon Jan 28 18:57:04 2013 From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 20:57:04 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] TR3B timing chain slack Message-ID: <19db6.169cb38b.3e388670@aol.com> Sorry, I forgot to mention that I did renew all sprockets, tensioners, bolts, etc. when I renewed the timing chain. Incidentally, I have never heard a timing chain get as loud as mine did in a very short period of time. Not even have I heard them that loud on Stags.... I've not heard of this being a common problem on TR's, but while you're in there anyway, best to renew the lot. Tim In a message dated 28/01/2013 8:50:22 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, ccsimonsen at gmail.com writes: I've heard chains and gears wear together. With an inch of slack, I'd make sure the gear teeth have enough depth left to do their job. The gears on my tr2 were shallow and quite sharp. I bit the bullet and replaced the set. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/kingscreektrees at aol.com From smithw1 at optonline.net Mon Jan 28 19:13:18 2013 From: smithw1 at optonline.net (WILLIAM SMITH) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 21:13:18 -0500 Subject: [TR] Winter Warning From Standard Triumph:) Message-ID: <001001cdfdc6$34539fe0$9cfadfa0$@optonline.net> In a similar encounter with Jaguar executives, my neighbor, who worked at Jaguar headquarters at the time it was owned by Ford, told me that a Ford exec asked a Jag exec why Jags were not made to be more reliable. The Jag exec responded that it was because Jag owners liked to work on their cars. Bill Smith '72 TR6 (original owner) '80 TR7 DHC (2nd owner) _____________________________________ Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 09:59:59 -0500 From: Triumph List To: "Chip19474 at aol.com" Cc: "triumphs at autox.team.net" Subject: Re: [TR] Winter Warning From Standard Triumph:) Message-ID: <99A358FA-3E15-493B-8899-B42F387FFA46 at yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Reminds me of the story of when Sir William Lyons visited the Jaguar dealer in New York during a very bad winter storm. The sales rep asked why Jaguar couldn't build a heater sufficient to keep the interior warm. Lyons reply was why is it that Americans cant learn to dress appropriately for the weather! Larry Miceli 58 TR3 73 Stag 74 TR6 Sent from my iPhone ) From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Mon Jan 28 19:27:57 2013 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 18:27:57 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] TR3B timing chain slack Message-ID: <1359426477.65839.YahooMailNeo@web180901.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> When I pulled my TR3 engine apart, I found that the timing chain tensioner was gone completely and that the timing chain had a removable link that was missing in one side (towards the block). The pin on the chain link for the removable link had been rubbing against the front plate and had cut about a.01" groove in it. I lined the broken removable link up with the oil spillway and flicked it with my finger and the link fell out and the timing chain fell off of the engine. I had thrashed that engine without mercy and it had stayed together. I found the removable link in the oil pan. Lord knows how long it had been there, maybe decades... Those little tractor engines are pretty tough. I wouldn't be too concerned with slack as long as you got the chain from somewhere respectable and put the tensioner back in when the cover goes on. -Bill in Tehachapi Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 17:25:51 -0600 From: "Wbeech" To: Subject: [TR] TR3B timing chain slack Message-ID: <8FAD578946A54F5FB9B2ABF19A6E7F22 at bboffice> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" What is an acceptable amount of slack in the TR3B (TCF) timing chain? With all the slack on the tensioner side I can measure 25mm of play. Is this OK? Thanks, Bill; From wbeech at flash.net Mon Jan 28 19:41:13 2013 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 20:41:13 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3B timing chain slack In-Reply-To: References: <1a6a9.227262e2.3e387891@aol.com> Message-ID: <07DF77015AE44E9F8B3BD3DB4EF5230F@bboffice> Good thought, I tried to lift the chain off the sprocket and it moved less than 1/8"(that would be about 3.175mm, Geo) so I think the sprocket is OK, but I will take a closer look at it tomorrow. Thx to all, Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby" '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab) www.triumphowners.com/1566 '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" "If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow" M.Andretti -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Simo Sent: Monday, January 28, 2013 7:48 PM To: list Triumph Subject: Re: [TR] TR3B timing chain slack I've heard chains and gears wear together. With an inch of slack, I'd make sure the gear teeth have enough depth left to do their job. The gears on my tr2 were shallow and quite sharp. I bit the bullet and replaced the set. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From wbeech at flash.net Mon Jan 28 19:42:49 2013 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 20:42:49 -0600 Subject: [TR] Battery trickle charger In-Reply-To: <235460355.180210.1359424504228.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <003801cdfdbe$00fb86b0$02f29410$@charter.net> <235460355.180210.1359424504228.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: I have one from Harbor Freight, about 7 years old now, never a problem. Probably paid $10 for it. Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of pethier at comcast.net Sent: Monday, January 28, 2013 7:55 PM To: Alex&Janet Thomson Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Battery trickle charger I got Schumacher brand 1.5 amp "float" tenders at Walmart. Less than 20 bucks. Keep one on the Stag all the time. No trouble. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier at comcast.net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica http://www.mnautox.com http://www.mntriumphs.org ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From dbh at hamengr.com Mon Jan 28 21:25:21 2013 From: dbh at hamengr.com (David B. Hammond) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 20:25:21 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR engine block In-Reply-To: <07DF77015AE44E9F8B3BD3DB4EF5230F@bboffice> References: <1a6a9.227262e2.3e387891@aol.com> <07DF77015AE44E9F8B3BD3DB4EF5230F@bboffice> Message-ID: <005001cdfdd8$a6c84b40$f458e1c0$@com> Just pulled the head only to discover a broken stud midway on pass side. Broke about 1" below top of block. Amy ideas on getting it out? David From tony at tonydrews.com Mon Jan 28 21:50:58 2013 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 22:50:58 -0600 Subject: [TR] Battery trickle charger In-Reply-To: References: <51071D6E.30002@execulink.com> Message-ID: I have one for my race car. Love it! I use it on street stuff occasionally too. Tony Drews At 07:52 PM 1/28/2013, Geo Hahn wrote: >Coincidentally this topic just came up on another list and someone whose >opinion I value spoke highly of this unit: > >Battery >Tender > >Haven't used it myself (live where we drive all year) but looks good. > >Geo > > >On Mon, Jan 28, 2013 at 5:53 PM, Angelo Graham wrote: > > > Hello List: > > My "el cheapo" 750 mA battery charger just bit the dust. Second one in a > > few years to fail. Purchased them from our local/national auto supply store > > (Canadian Tire). > > Just wondering if there is a more reliable alternative available in the > > 750 mA range to keep the battery alive through the winter storage period. > > This winter I have left the battery in the car with the trickle charger > > connected. Maybe I should remove it and take it inside? > > Thanks for any leads or brand names. > > Angelo Graham > >** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com From wbeech at flash.net Mon Jan 28 22:43:36 2013 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 23:43:36 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR engine block In-Reply-To: <005001cdfdd8$a6c84b40$f458e1c0$@com> References: <1a6a9.227262e2.3e387891@aol.com><07DF77015AE44E9F8B3BD3DB4EF5230F@bboffice> <005001cdfdd8$a6c84b40$f458e1c0$@com> Message-ID: I am sure someone will have a more exotic solution, but I would drill it an use an easy-out. Typically, studs are not supposed to be torqued very tightly. Good luck, Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David B. Hammond Sent: Monday, January 28, 2013 10:25 PM To: 'list Triumph' Subject: [TR] TR engine block Just pulled the head only to discover a broken stud midway on pass side. Broke about 1" below top of block. Amy ideas on getting it out? David ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jan 28 22:48:13 2013 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 21:48:13 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR engine block In-Reply-To: <005001cdfdd8$a6c84b40$f458e1c0$@com> Message-ID: <33.0A.01431.B9267015@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> > Just pulled the head only to discover a broken stud midway on > pass side. > Broke about 1" below top of block. Amy ideas on getting it out? I'd probably start by center-punching and drilling with a left handed drill bit. With any luck, the bit will grab and back it out. If not, you've got a hole to try your favorite screw extractor. If that fails, next step might be to try to weld a hollow bolt to the end of the stud (although I'm not sure how practical that is down that deep of a hole). Last resort, I've got an article on how to build an EDM machine -- Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jan 28 22:58:06 2013 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2013 21:58:06 -0800 Subject: [TR] Battery trickle charger In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <7F.FB.25887.CE467015@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> > I have one from Harbor Freight, about 7 years old now, never > a problem. > Probably paid $10 for it. And they're frequently on sale for even less. But don't hook them up to a battery that is deeply discharged or has a shorted cell. I burned up 3 of them that way. The only current limit seems to be the winding resistance in the transformer. When I tried replacing it with a stouter transformer, the plastic box with the regulator melted before the regulator burned up. This one is more money, but should be more rugged and probably even better for your battery: http://goo.gl/hNXpI -- Randall From levilevi at comcast.net Tue Jan 29 01:14:23 2013 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud R) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 01:14:23 -0700 Subject: [TR] Battery trickle charger In-Reply-To: <7F.FB.25887.CE467015@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> References: <7F.FB.25887.CE467015@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> Message-ID: <19346946-9A11-46D8-BDF0-291EAA5CC779@comcast.net> I replaced a 12 volt battery in my RV (for towing the Spitfire race car) with two six volt batteries (to get more amp hours/storage) wired in series to get 12 volts. Question is do I charge it with a 6 volt or 12 volt charger? Maybe 12 if I hook the charger to where the pos and neg cables attach. Thanks Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) On Jan 28, 2013, at 10:58 PM, Randall wrote: >> I have one from Harbor Freight, about 7 years old now, never >> a problem. >> Probably paid $10 for it. > > And they're frequently on sale for even less. But don't hook them > up to a > battery that is deeply discharged or has a shorted cell. I burned > up 3 of > them that way. The only current limit seems to be the winding > resistance in > the transformer. When I tried replacing it with a stouter > transformer, the > plastic box with the regulator melted before the regulator burned up. > > This one is more money, but should be more rugged and probably even > better > for your battery: > http://goo.gl/hNXpI > > -- Randall > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net From jdabars at att.net Tue Jan 29 02:07:55 2013 From: jdabars at att.net (Janis Dabars) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 01:07:55 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] hi Message-ID: <1359450475.15263.androidMobile@web185006.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> almost cannot believe it..what do you think http://bit.ly/YA9CmU Janis From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk Tue Jan 29 02:46:02 2013 From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 09:46:02 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] Battery trickle charger In-Reply-To: <51071D6E.30002@execulink.com> References: <51071D6E.30002@execulink.com> Message-ID: <1359452762.43406.YahooMailNeo@web171901.mail.ir2.yahoo.com> Angelo Graham wrote: This winter I have left the battery in the car with the trickle charger connected. Maybe I should remove it and take it inside? I hesitate to broadcast the great misfortunes of others but I think there may be some listers who know of Duncan and Sheila Wood from Red River Triumph in Texas? Stories change in the telling but its my understanding that just before Christmas, Duncan left the battery in his 1935 Gloria on a trickle charge in his garage and in his absence the charger shorted out and delivered full mains power to the battery. The tragic result was their house was effectively burned to the ground, while their truly gorgeous Gloria, Stag and a recently acquired Dolomite became scrap metal. Historically, I've used a mains trickle charger keeping my trailer home leisure battery (a deep cycle 120amp) in tip top order over the winter and done it in my workroom that's attached to the house. Two years ago, it failed and I bought a portable solar panel we now keep in the trailer home when we locate it in places where there is no mains hook-up. It more than keeps up with discharges from lighting, radio/CD and water pumps and while it cost rather more than a mains charger, it really keeps the battery recharged during the day and we can fully 'indulge ourselves' in electrical services while away from mains sources. So battery and solar panel come home in the close season and over to our 'home on wheels' when the weather is better. Jonmac From jodyfkerr at gmail.com Tue Jan 29 03:12:45 2013 From: jodyfkerr at gmail.com (Jody Kerr) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 03:12:45 -0700 Subject: [TR] Battery trickle charger In-Reply-To: <1359452762.43406.YahooMailNeo@web171901.mail.ir2.yahoo.com> References: <51071D6E.30002@execulink.com> <1359452762.43406.YahooMailNeo@web171901.mail.ir2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I ha a pair of the Battery Tender brand of chargers. I use one to keep the charge on my Mum's Spitfire and another to keep our golf cart in Mexico charged. They've always worked brilliantly. It has even dealt with the somewhat questionable electricity delivery in Mexico which spikes as often as it fails. Jody -- http://www.theymightberacing.com/ 1953 Studebaker Champion 1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854) 1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's) 1981 Triumph TR8 1970 MG MGB 1980 Triumph TR7 "Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so." --Douglas Adams From aljlthomson at charter.net Tue Jan 29 04:02:27 2013 From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex&Janet Thomson) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 06:02:27 -0500 Subject: [TR] Battery trickle charger In-Reply-To: <19346946-9A11-46D8-BDF0-291EAA5CC779@comcast.net> References: <7F.FB.25887.CE467015@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> <19346946-9A11-46D8-BDF0-291EAA5CC779@comcast.net> Message-ID: <000e01cdfe10$2043ab90$60cb02b0$@charter.net> When using two sixes in series, it's extremely important to have identically sized batteries so they charge evenly from the regular vehicle charging system. When using a plug in charger, you can use the 6V setting and do each one individually or set it to 12V and charge them as a single unit ( which is what your alternator is doing anyways). Since every battery is made of groups of 2V cells, you are really charging 6 cells in series on a single battery, 12V system. When charging the batteries individually, you should monitor battery voltage or specific gravity (if you can open the cells) so as to balance the degree of charge in each battery. I have had better luck with using a pair of 12V batteries in parallel for added amperage capability on tractors. In fact, I converted two of my row-crop Deeres to this type of a setup from the original factory two-sixes-in-series system. They seem to last longer and big 6V batteries get pretty expensive. A group 4 6V is about $160 from a Deere dealer while group 31 12V (950 CCA) is about 100 bucks from a truck shop. But, that's getting away from your question. Charging your batteries individually at 6V and using a voltmeter for the first time will probably show you if the batteries are balanced. If they are, after that you could use the 12V setting and charge them as a single unit. I assume the vehicle is negative ground. In that case, black, negative charger cable to the chassis and red, positive cable to the starter insulated circuit. The zero degree weather in Connecticut last week was a good test of starter systems. But not as severe as places like upper New York state or places like that! Alex Thomson -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bud R Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2013 3:14 AM To: Randall Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Battery trickle charger I replaced a 12 volt battery in my RV (for towing the Spitfire race car) with two six volt batteries (to get more amp hours/storage) wired in series to get 12 volts. Question is do I charge it with a 6 volt or 12 volt charger? Maybe 12 if I hook the charger to where the pos and neg cables attach. Thanks Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) On Jan 28, 2013, at 10:58 PM, Randall wrote: >> I have one from Harbor Freight, about 7 years old now, never a >> problem. >> Probably paid $10 for it. > > And they're frequently on sale for even less. But don't hook them up > to a battery that is deeply discharged or has a shorted cell. I > burned up 3 of them that way. The only current limit seems to be the > winding resistance in the transformer. When I tried replacing it with > a stouter transformer, the plastic box with the regulator melted > before the regulator burned up. > > This one is more money, but should be more rugged and probably even > better for your battery: > http://goo.gl/hNXpI > > -- Randall > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Jan 29 06:10:59 2013 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 08:10:59 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Winter Warning From Standard Triumph:) Message-ID: <4440.6d9076b1.3e392463@cs.com> Back in those days the batteries were much more tolerant of deeper discharges. But since then there has been a CCA arms race where battery manufacturers tout huge numbers for Cold Cranking Amps such as 650 CCA and consumers have responded positively. Nevermind that that is about 200 or 300% more than what is required. (More, actually since the spec is for a 10 second cranking period and any modern car that doesn't start after two seconds isn't going to start.) To get all those CCA's the battery manufacturers have to make more plate area and to keep the battery from getting much heavier (and more expensive) they have resorted to making the plates thinner. Thinner plates means a smaller amount of discharge can leave holes in the plates (reducing plate area) which do not readily grow back upon recharge. But, no problem. All cars nowadays have high capacity alternators which can supply all the cars electrical requirements under all conditions (provided the engine is running). The upshot is that given the recent trend in battery design fitting an alternator to a TR that is driven frequently or daily is not so much a luxury as it is a necessary accommodation of modern battery technology. Or you can get a deep discharge marine battery. Or the Optima YellowTop(R)* battery. (*NFI) Dave In a message dated 1/28/2013 8:49:52 AM Central Standard Time, Chip19474 at aol.com writes: > "The heater blower is only to augment the airflow through the car in > difficult conditions. Do not use it unnecessarily, especially at speed > when it > is not required. Remember that in winter conditions with the lights on > and > other accessories in use, the current load will be considerable. In cold > > weather.....if there is too great a load.....the generator may fail to > keep > the battery fully charged" From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Tue Jan 29 06:28:19 2013 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 06:28:19 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR engine block In-Reply-To: <005001cdfdd8$a6c84b40$f458e1c0$@com> References: <1a6a9.227262e2.3e387891@aol.com> <07DF77015AE44E9F8B3BD3DB4EF5230F@bboffice> <005001cdfdd8$a6c84b40$f458e1c0$@com> Message-ID: On Mon, Jan 28, 2013 at 9:25 PM, David B. Hammond wrote: > Just pulled the head only to discover a broken stud midway on pass side. > If you haven't already, I would be soaking that guy with PBlaster. Hopefully it is not in there real tight. I once had one break off but when I reinserted the jagged broken piece it was able to engage its mate and by pressing down I was able to thread it out. I don't expect to get that lucky twice in one lifetime. Geo From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jan 29 07:21:15 2013 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 06:21:15 -0800 Subject: [TR] Battery trickle charger In-Reply-To: <19346946-9A11-46D8-BDF0-291EAA5CC779@comcast.net> Message-ID: > I replaced a 12 volt battery in my RV (for towing the > Spitfire race car) with two six volt batteries (to get more > amp hours/storage) wired in series to get 12 volts. Question > is do I charge it with a 6 volt or 12 volt charger? Maybe 12 > if I hook the charger to where the pos and neg cables attach. My choice would be to leave them connected in series and use a smart 12v charger. Lots less hassle than trying to charge each one individually and equally; or reconnecting in parallel (so you can charge both at once at 6v). There may be some advantage to using two 6v chargers (which would allow leaving the batteries connected in series), but not enough to worry about IMO. As a side note, my old Winnebago had an AC charger built into the motorhome, such that it would charge the 'camping' batteries when the coach was plugged in. But it was a 'dumb' charger and I blamed it for shortening the battery life. Likely the newer ones are better, but if you leave it plugged in for long periods of time, you might want to look into that. And if your RV already has a smart charger, maybe just use that. -- Randall From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Jan 29 07:45:35 2013 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 09:45:35 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Battery trickle charger Message-ID: <6c6a.2ca7cb93.3e393a8e@cs.com> Presuming that the two batteries are evenly loaded, and that means you don't have any 6 volt loads that will deplete the charge on one battery faster then on the other, you will be just fine with a 12 volt charger. Just connect the positive lead to where the car's wiring hooks up and the negative to chassis. The only connection to the other two terminals is the jumper cable between them. Sure it would be better to have two six volt chargers but where do you get those? They are available but for much more $$$. In a perfect world you would use 6 chargers, one for each cell - provided you had access to the terminals. But that is way over the top. Dave In a message dated 1/29/2013 2:14:37 AM Central Standard Time, levilevi at comcast.net writes: > I replaced a 12 volt battery in my RV (for towing the Spitfire race > car) with two six volt batteries (to get more amp hours/storage) wired > in series to get 12 volts. Question is do I charge it with a 6 volt > or 12 volt charger? Maybe 12 if I hook the charger to where the pos > and neg cables attach. From moira.secrest at verizon.net Tue Jan 29 07:52:22 2013 From: moira.secrest at verizon.net (moira.secrest at verizon.net) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 08:52:22 -0600 (CST) Subject: [TR] TR6 Flywheel, Clutch Q's Message-ID: <22342034.21324.1359471142654.JavaMail.root@vznit170132> From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Jan 29 08:06:01 2013 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 10:06:01 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Battery trickle charger Message-ID: <77ed.6fb92415.3e393f59@cs.com> Actually, saying it is extremely important is a bit of hyperbole, especially in a cranking application where the level of discharge is not very deep. More important if you will be discharging deeply as in a wheel chair, electric vehicle situation or a situation where you are powering accessories when the engine is not running. Since this is an RV the last might be the case. (Of course, if that is the case I suggest two 12 volt batteries with an isolator so that only one battery is used to power the devices saving the other to start the engine regardless. I also recommend a deep discharge model for the battery powering the accessories and a cranking battery for starting.) What IS important is to load the batteries equally. That means NO! 6V loads that draw off only one battery. I agree that two 12 volt batteries would probably be a better option. MGB's were originally equipped with two six volt batteries but many owners have converted to two 12 volt batteries in parallel. Or just one 12 volt battery. Lead acid batteries are pretty robust and tolerate the occasional overcharge without too much detriment so a one time charge upon initial installation where the two batteries are not charged to an equal state will be fine provided one isn't completely dead. Dave In a message dated 1/29/2013 5:02:36 AM Central Standard Time, aljlthomson at charter.net writes: > When using two sixes in series, it's extremely important to have > identically > sized batteries so they charge evenly from the regular vehicle charging > system. When using a plug in charger, you can use the 6V setting and do > each > one individually or set it to 12V and charge them as a single unit ( which > is what your alternator is doing anyways). Since every battery is made of > groups of 2V cells, you are really charging 6 cells in series on a single > battery, 12V system. When charging the batteries individually, you should > monitor battery voltage or specific gravity (if you can open the cells) so > as to balance the degree of charge in each battery. > > I have had better luck with using a pair of 12V batteries in parallel for > added amperage capability on tractors. In fact, I converted two of my > row-crop Deeres to this type of a setup from the original factory > two-sixes-in-series system. They seem to last longer and big 6V batteries > get pretty expensive. A group 4 6V is about $160 from a Deere dealer while > group 31 12V (950 CCA) is about 100 bucks from a truck shop. But, that's > getting away from your question. > > Charging your batteries individually at 6V and using a voltmeter for the > first time will probably show you if the batteries are balanced. If they > are, after that you could use the 12V setting and charge them as a single > unit. I assume the vehicle is negative ground. In that case, black, > negative charger cable to the chassis and red, positive cable to the > starter > insulated circuit. From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jan 29 08:27:41 2013 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 07:27:41 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3B timing chain slack In-Reply-To: <8FAD578946A54F5FB9B2ABF19A6E7F22@bboffice> Message-ID: <20.BB.01431.A6AE7015@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> > What is an acceptable amount of slack in the TR3B (TCF) > timing chain? With all the slack on the tensioner side I can > measure 25mm of play. Is this OK? Seems high to me, but that's not the way I was taught to judge timing chain condition. Remove the chain from the sprockets and try to flex it sideways in your fingers. If it will flex more than 1/4" or so, replace it. If it is badly worn, then you should replace the sprockets as well. -- Randall From wbeech at flash.net Tue Jan 29 09:06:07 2013 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 10:06:07 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR engine block In-Reply-To: References: <1a6a9.227262e2.3e387891@aol.com><07DF77015AE44E9F8B3BD3DB4EF5230F@bboffice><005001cdfdd8$a6c84b40$f458e1c0$@com> Message-ID: Or, given the latest study from The List, 50/50 solution of acetone & ATF. B -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Geo Hahn Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2013 7:28 AM To: David B. Hammond Cc: list Triumph Subject: Re: [TR] TR engine block On Mon, Jan 28, 2013 at 9:25 PM, David B. Hammond wrote: > Just pulled the head only to discover a broken stud midway on pass side. > If you haven't already, I would be soaking that guy with PBlaster. Hopefully it is not in there real tight. I once had one break off but when I reinserted the jagged broken piece it was able to engage its mate and by pressing down I was able to thread it out. I don't expect to get that lucky twice in one lifetime. Geo ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From dlhogye at comcast.net Tue Jan 29 09:11:28 2013 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 16:11:28 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3B timing chain slack In-Reply-To: <20.BB.01431.A6AE7015@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> Message-ID: <760070585.463262.1359475888625.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> I think that your standard timing chain from our main British suppliers are around $15 and an improved quality chain is around $45. Either choice is a no-brainer if you are that far into a motor. Just replace the thing, don't even look at the old one. Dave H. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "Wbeech" , triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2013 7:27:41 AM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3B timing chain slack > What is an acceptable amount of slack in the TR3B (TCF) > timing chain? With all the slack on the tensioner side I can > measure 25mm of play. Is this OK? Seems high to me, but that's not the way I was taught to judge timing chain condition. Remove the chain from the sprockets and try to flex it sideways in your fingers. If it will flex more than 1/4" or so, replace it. If it is badly worn, then you should replace the sprockets as well. -- Randall ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye at comcast.net From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Tue Jan 29 09:31:08 2013 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 08:31:08 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Winter Warning From Standard Triumph Message-ID: <1359477068.27485.YahooMailNeo@web160106.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Hi List! Well I'm sorry that I haven't been keeping up on my back-log of Digest Readings, but I'm back to having to go (peddle) to the library (10miles each way. I do agree with that British gent. that made the statement about why Americans can't dress right for the weather. After all I was out peddling my bicycle in 12^F weather going into ah 20+ MPH head wind. YES! It was cold & tough peddling, but I really enjoyed it when I had the wind at my back. Avg. speed going into the wind= 10MPH, but with the wind at my back, It jumped to 16MPH. NO heater, just heavy layered clothing & non-stop peddling to generate body heat. I'm really looking forward to tomorrow, because it's suppose to get up to 60^F, but rain. Well, like the Rolling Stones said, "You can't always get what you want, but if you try REAL hard, You'll get what you need!" Keep working on your TRIUMPHS so you can get out & DRIVE! Now, back to my readings. -Cosmo Kramer From dirtbeard at pacbell.net Tue Jan 29 10:06:47 2013 From: dirtbeard at pacbell.net (old dirtbeard) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 09:06:47 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Battery trickle charge In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1359479207.32844.YahooMailRC@web184702.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> I now have two single units and a double unit Pulse Tech chargers. After using these for a year, I gave away my other chargers. These aren't the cheapest, but they replace trickle chargers, regular chargers, they de-sulfate, can restore dead/weak batteries, won't over-charge, blah, blah, blah... http://www.amazon.com/XC100-P-Battery-Maintenance-Charger-Desulfator/dp/B000O707IO I use them on my motorcycles, cars, trucks, etc. As we speak, I have four vehicles "trickle charging/de-sulfating. The original factory Delco "green eye" battery in my '03 GMC lasted 9.5 years with occasional "trickle charging" from one of these units. The claim is that most batteries die an early death from the plates being covered with sulfate crystals. These charger "pulse" the batteries while they charge and even when they are not charging to reduce the size of the crystals. I believe in the technology here and in the chargers, and endorse them 100%. best, doug ____________________ '72 BSA B50SS '74 Triumph TR6 '01 HD XHL 883 '03 GMC Cargo Van '07 Aprilia SXV 550 From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Tue Jan 29 10:34:02 2013 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 09:34:02 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Digest hi Message-ID: <1359480842.38864.androidMobile@web160104.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> have a look at this http://bit.ly/UzRm9v Cosmo From don.hiscock at gmail.com Tue Jan 29 10:39:30 2013 From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 11:39:30 -0600 Subject: [TR] Winter Warning From Standard Triumph In-Reply-To: <1359477068.27485.YahooMailNeo@web160106.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> References: <1359477068.27485.YahooMailNeo@web160106.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Good for you, Cosmo! A few falls on black ice have left me gunshy and I rarely go out on the bike below freezing these days. I was in central Finland a weekend ago where the temperature was -28C (-18F). There were a number of folks out riding their bikes commuting, including kids and old folks. The Finns are tough people... And they make good studded tires. Maybe I should bring home a couple of souvenirs sometime. This image was taken of an older gentleman around town a day or later when the temperature was -10C (+14F). They plow, and grit, but don't salt in most of Finland. http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/i-HhxFf8b/0/XL/i-HhxFf8b-XL.jpg I was about five hours easy driving from the Arctic Circle. I thought about finding a car to borrow and hitting the road. Next time... Don On Tue, Jan 29, 2013 at 11:31 AM, Cosmo Kramer wrote: > > Hi List! > Well I'm sorry that I haven't been keeping up on my back-log of > Digest Readings, but I'm back to having to go (peddle) to the library (10miles > each way. I do agree with that British gent. that made the statement about why > Americans can't dress right for the weather. After all I was out peddling my > bicycle in 12^F weather going into ah 20+ MPH head wind. YES! It was cold & > tough peddling, but I really enjoyed it when I had the wind at my back. Avg. > speed going into the wind= 10MPH, but with the wind at my back, It jumped to > 16MPH. NO heater, just heavy layered clothing & non-stop peddling to generate > body heat. I'm really looking forward to tomorrow, because it's suppose to get > up to 60^F, but rain. Well, like the Rolling Stones said, "You can't always > get what you want, but if you try REAL hard, You'll get what you need!" > > Keep > working on your TRIUMPHS so you can get out & DRIVE! > Now, back to my readings. > -Cosmo Kramer > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jan 29 10:45:00 2013 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 09:45:00 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR engine block In-Reply-To: Message-ID: > Or, given the latest study from The List, 50/50 solution of > acetone & ATF. Not latest or from the list, just what someone else wrote up for a magazine about 5 years ago. And the acetone/ATF mixture (aka "weasel pee") will separate in a matter of hours, making it useless for extended soaking. The "scientific" study didn't even look at whether it made the difference between getting something apart and destroying it; only how easy it was to turn a bolt that would have turned anyway. My interest runs more towards turning something that would twist off otherwise. -- Randall From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Tue Jan 29 11:07:36 2013 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 11:07:36 -0700 Subject: [TR] Digest hi In-Reply-To: <1359480842.38864.androidMobile@web160104.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> References: <1359480842.38864.androidMobile@web160104.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I assume everyone knows better than to click on links that are offered in this fashion. We've had two such posts just today so I thought I'd remind folks to use caution. They may actually be legitimate but it pays to be wary as email accounts are often hacked/hijacked. Geo PS (I messed with the link below so it won't work at all). On Tue, Jan 29, 2013 at 10:34 AM, Cosmo Kramer wrote: > have a look at this http://bit.ly****/UzRm9v > > Cosmo From dctr6 at optonline.net Tue Jan 29 12:01:56 2013 From: dctr6 at optonline.net (dennis culligan) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 14:01:56 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Battery Tenders Message-ID: <3141c3db.116b08.13c87afe1e3.Webtop.12@optonline.net> A few years ago I attended a tour of Jim Taylor's car collection in upstate NY. Every car in the collection (100+) was registered, insured and ready to run thanks to dozens and dozens of Battery Tenders lining the floor between the rows of cars. A very impressive collection, by the way - lots of British cars (Aston Martins, Healeys, a few Triumhs and MGs) along with every other type of car you can imagine including a "barn find" Cobra that was actually built into somebody's house! Dennis Culligan / 1976 TR6 CF57948U From anncarletta at yahoo.com Tue Jan 29 12:22:53 2013 From: anncarletta at yahoo.com (Ann Carletta) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 11:22:53 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] bad link In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1359487373.95145.YahooMailClassic@web163503.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> I, unfortunately, clicked on it and it hijacked my e-mail addresses, who all got some spam e-mail from "me". On another note, we actually have a non-freezing day in NJ, so I intend on starting the car later (TR3A). I took her for a spin on a day like this about 2 weeks ago-top off, of course. Ann Message: 3 Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 11:07:36 -0700 From: Geo Hahn To: Cosmo Kramer Cc: Digest Subject: Re: [TR] Digest hi Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I assume everyone knows better than to click on links that are offered in this fashion. We've had two such posts just today so I thought I'd remind folks to use caution. They may actually be legitimate but it pays to be wary as email accounts are often hacked/hijacked. Geo PS (I messed with the link below so it won't work at all). On Tue, Jan 29, 2013 at 10:34 AM, Cosmo Kramer wrote: > have a look at this http://bit.ly****/UzRm9v > > Cosmo ------------------------------ _______________________________________________ Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 6, Issue 42 *************************************** From roadwarriordave at hotmail.com Tue Jan 29 12:25:10 2013 From: roadwarriordave at hotmail.com (Dave Murphy) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 14:25:10 -0500 Subject: [TR] Battery trickle charger In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I bought a couple of Battery Tenders last year and liked them so much, that I bought 3 more. I used to use a regular 2 amp charger and a 6 amp charger to try to charge all my seasonal vehicle batteries a few times throughout the winter, but as I didn't check out the battery voltage after charging or use a hygrometer (perhaps more difficult with a "sealed" battery) it was hit and miss as to exactly how long I needed to charge the batteries and when I needed to charge them. And at best my batteries rarely lasted more than 3 seasons. I like 4 things about the Battery Tender. My First Like is the 2 lights - Flashing Red for a bad connection/open circuit; Red for a low battery; Red and Green for almost charged; and Green for fully charged and charger shuts off and then just measures voltage to determine if it should come back on. My Second Like is the permanent spark-free wire connection to the battery using the ring terminals which connect to the bolts through the terminal ends on the car's standard battery cable ends, and then the umbical cord from the ring terminals can be fed permanemtly through the car's grille ending in a weatherproof capped quick disconnect - no worrying about alligator clips jumping off when you shut the hood. My Third Like is you can leave the Battery Tender connected forever without worrying about over charging or running up huge dollars on your electric bill. My Fourth Like is the integral fuse that I imagine might help prevent a fire. If, by using a hastle-free $50 Battery Tender, I can get 6 years out a $100 battery instead of 2, it's saved me $200, a 4:1 ROI ! If I get 8 years, I'll save $300! Multiplied by number of seasonal vehicles. -David Murphy Dearborn Michigan '76 TR6 '66 AH3000 '03 BMW MCS '73 Norton Commando 850 Roadster 1 big old Yank ragtop From allegrorover at mac.com Tue Jan 29 12:35:26 2013 From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 14:35:26 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 front end bacing Message-ID: <49B6820F-61C5-453D-8303-E22948FBD57E@mac.com> List, Does anyone have any photos or video on where and how the front end lower facing is attached to a TR4A???? I am told that this is a weak point in the front suspension and I would like to take care of the issue while I have the motor out. Thanks Tony Cascio 58 TR3A TS27093L 65 TR4A on a TR4 frame CTC64651LO allegrorover at mac.com www.triumphowners.com/1489 From allegrorover at mac.com Tue Jan 29 12:36:48 2013 From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 14:36:48 -0500 Subject: [TR] oops sorry Message-ID: I meant bracing instead of facing......can't type or is it read well.... Tony cascio From guy at genfiniti.com Tue Jan 29 12:41:26 2013 From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 13:41:26 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR4 front end bacing In-Reply-To: <49B6820F-61C5-453D-8303-E22948FBD57E@mac.com> References: <49B6820F-61C5-453D-8303-E22948FBD57E@mac.com> Message-ID: <66F348FA-C15F-4AC7-BA77-833BF7723F5E@genfiniti.com> A couple of questions.. 1. Which chassis? Standard or IRS? 2. Can you elaborate on "front end lower facing"? On Jan 29, 2013, at 1:35 PM, Anthony Cascio wrote: > List, > Does anyone have any photos or video on where and how the front end lower facing is attached to a TR4A???? > I am told that this is a weak point in the front suspension and I would like to take care of the issue while I have the motor out. > Thanks > > > > Tony Cascio > 58 TR3A > TS27093L > 65 TR4A on a TR4 frame > CTC64651LO > allegrorover at mac.com > www.triumphowners.com/1489 > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/guy at genfiniti.com From allegrorover at mac.com Tue Jan 29 12:49:34 2013 From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 14:49:34 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 front end bacing In-Reply-To: <66F348FA-C15F-4AC7-BA77-833BF7723F5E@genfiniti.com> References: <49B6820F-61C5-453D-8303-E22948FBD57E@mac.com> <66F348FA-C15F-4AC7-BA77-833BF7723F5E@genfiniti.com> Message-ID: <4F03B079-C806-4B57-B7D5-EE52651BE634@mac.com> Sorry, it's a TR4A on a solid axle frame. And I believe it's the bracing setup for the lower A arms where they attach to the frame. Evidently they were not welded as good as they could have and the single bolt where the new kits have a two bolt set up. I just wondered if anyone had done this already and if there were any photos available before I attempt this upgrade. Thanks Tony Cascio From darrellw360 at mac.com Tue Jan 29 13:04:30 2013 From: darrellw360 at mac.com (Darrell Walker) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 20:04:30 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] TR4 front end bacing In-Reply-To: <4F03B079-C806-4B57-B7D5-EE52651BE634@mac.com> Message-ID: Hi Tony, There are actually three weak spots there: 1. The brackets that are welded to the frame can tear off. As built, they are mostly welded to the back wall of the frame. This has happened to me. 2. The single-bolt brackets can break. This has also happened to me. 3. The single-bolt brackets can pull through the frame bracket. On #1, there is a gusset kit that can (should!) be installed. I got mine from TRF, though you could fabricate your own gussets. On #2, use the TR6 brackets with two bolts. On #3, fab up an extra backing plate to reinforce the bracket welded to the frame. -Darrell On Jan 29, 2013, at 11:49 AM, Anthony Cascio wrote: Sorry, it's a TR4A on a solid axle frame. And I believe it's the bracing setup for the lower A arms where they attach to the frame. Evidently they were not welded as good as they could have and the single bolt where the new kits have a two bolt set up. I just wondered if anyone had done this already and if there were any photos available before I attempt this upgrade. Thanks Tony Cascio ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: darrellw360 at mac.com'>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/darrellw3 60 at mac.com From guy at genfiniti.com Tue Jan 29 14:13:42 2013 From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 15:13:42 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR4 front end bacing In-Reply-To: <4F03B079-C806-4B57-B7D5-EE52651BE634@mac.com> References: <49B6820F-61C5-453D-8303-E22948FBD57E@mac.com> <66F348FA-C15F-4AC7-BA77-833BF7723F5E@genfiniti.com> <4F03B079-C806-4B57-B7D5-EE52651BE634@mac.com> Message-ID: <53141200-8215-4A2A-B1CE-8CECCB943089@genfiniti.com> Anthony, I get it now. I did this on my 4A. It was a matter of welding some strengthening gussets to the chassis mounts, and using the two-bolt brackets from a TR6. I have descriptions and photos on my web site at: http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph/restoration/chassisRenew.asp http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph/restoration/frontSuspensionRenew.asp Hope it helps. Best of luck. On Jan 29, 2013, at 1:49 PM, Anthony Cascio wrote: > Sorry, it's a TR4A on a solid axle frame. And I believe it's the bracing setup for the lower A arms where they attach to the frame. > Evidently they were not welded as good as they could have and the single bolt where the new kits have a two bolt set up. > I just wondered if anyone had done this already and if there were any photos available before I attempt this upgrade. > Thanks > Tony Cascio From tjwakeman at gmail.com Tue Jan 29 15:26:01 2013 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 15:26:01 -0700 Subject: [TR] bad link In-Reply-To: <1359487373.95145.YahooMailClassic@web163503.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <1359487373.95145.YahooMailClassic@web163503.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <51084C79.6090904@gmail.com> On 1/29/13 12:22 PM, Ann Carletta wrote: > I, unfortunately, clicked on it and it hijacked my e-mail addresses, who all > got some spam e-mail from "me". I *never* open a link that comes in an email without text or one that only has a sentence or two of generic text not obviously from a real list member or person I know. I'm sure I miss some interesting videos but it seems to me that someone could at least add text saying what the link is for if it is legit. > > On another note, we actually have a non-freezing day in NJ, so I intend on > starting the car later (TR3A). I took her for a spin on a day like this about > 2 weeks ago-top off, of course. I too started my TR3 today. I let it idle in the garage while I shoveled snow off the driveway and walkways. Thought the TR would enjoy getting the juices flowing and the battery charged. Looks like a high of 30 degrees F today. TeriAnn The word burrr comes to mind. From don.hiscock at gmail.com Tue Jan 29 15:48:18 2013 From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 16:48:18 -0600 Subject: [TR] bad link In-Reply-To: <51084C79.6090904@gmail.com> References: <1359487373.95145.YahooMailClassic@web163503.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> <51084C79.6090904@gmail.com> Message-ID: 70+ F in Saint Louis yesterday and today. Good days to get the TR3B out and the oil hot. Of course, now the storms and tornado watches are looming -- there's a price to be paid here for those temperatures in January. Don On 1/29/13, TeriAnn J. Wakeman wrote: > On 1/29/13 12:22 PM, Ann Carletta wrote: >> I, unfortunately, clicked on it and it hijacked my e-mail addresses, who >> all >> got some spam e-mail from "me". > I *never* open a link that comes in an email without text or one that > only has a sentence or two of generic text not obviously from a real > list member or person I know. I'm sure I miss some interesting videos > but it seems to me that someone could at least add text saying what the > link is for if it is legit. >> >> On another note, we actually have a non-freezing day in NJ, so I intend >> on >> starting the car later (TR3A). I took her for a spin on a day like this >> about >> 2 weeks ago-top off, of course. > I too started my TR3 today. I let it idle in the garage while I shoveled > snow off the driveway and walkways. Thought the TR would enjoy getting > the juices flowing and the battery charged. Looks like a high of 30 > degrees F today. > > TeriAnn > > The word burrr comes to mind. > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Tue Jan 29 17:23:15 2013 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 16:23:15 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] hi Triumphs Message-ID: <1359505395.20858.androidMobile@web180905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> hey have a look http://bit.ly/XHQWe7 William From glemon at neb.rr.com Tue Jan 29 19:01:47 2013 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2013 20:01:47 -0600 Subject: [TR] Battery trickle charger In-Reply-To: <1359452762.43406.YahooMailNeo@web171901.mail.ir2.yahoo.com> References: <51071D6E.30002@execulink.com> <1359452762.43406.YahooMailNeo@web171901.mail.ir2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <9701EB899F8641BDAE1ABE5004B956EF@livingroompc> Although I am fortunate that my car is next to the house in the local garage, and I only have one to maintain, I generally don't worry about charging the battery in the winter, and just start it about once a month when we get a decent day, if no snow on the ground even take it for a drive. Charges the battery back up, and gets the circulating and covering the internal parts they are supposed to cover, and hopefully evaporates out any condensation in the motor. I realize not every one has that luxury, so a charger of some kind is needed, but works well for me. Greg Lemon 68 TR250 From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk Tue Jan 29 23:22:26 2013 From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 06:22:26 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] hi Triumph Message-ID: <1359526946.98684.androidMobile@web171906.mail.ir2.yahoo.com> check out this page http://bit.ly/14qhJlz John From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Wed Jan 30 04:00:16 2013 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 03:00:16 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Damn Links Message-ID: <1359543616.32477.YahooMailNeo@web180904.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Sorry about the bad link sent out from me yesterday. I got hacked. Sorry. I got the same email from a friend I had just sent a photo to and this email popped back, apparently from him. I thought that he had sent me something in return, so I clicked on it. How does one clear this up? I plan to run Malware Bytes and SpyBot Search & Destroy, just to make sure. -Bill Brewer From ptegler at verizon.net Wed Jan 30 04:13:40 2013 From: ptegler at verizon.net (ptegler) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 06:13:40 -0500 Subject: [TR] Damn Links References: <1359543616.32477.YahooMailNeo@web180904.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Windows box? just do a restore point from a few days ago Personally after using half a dozen different anti-virus and etc packages over the years...I've settled with Bit Defender.Cleanest, works well, stops most stuff cold. Paul Tegler ptegler at verizon.net www.teglerizer.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "William Brewer" To: "Triumphs" Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2013 6:00 AM Subject: [TR] Damn Links > Sorry about the bad link sent out from me yesterday. > I got hacked. > Sorry. I got the same email from a friend I had just sent a photo to and > this > email popped back, apparently from him. I thought that he had > sent me > something in return, so I clicked on it. > How does one clear this up? I > plan to run Malware Bytes and SpyBot Search & Destroy, just to make sure. > -Bill Brewer > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net From jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com Wed Jan 30 06:52:38 2013 From: jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com (John Young) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 05:52:38 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] hi Message-ID: <1359553958.20217.androidMobile@web181106.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> check this page out http://bit.ly/1297cMO John From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Wed Jan 30 08:01:14 2013 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 07:01:14 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] hi Message-ID: <1359558074.68753.androidMobile@web120602.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> hey have a look http://bit.ly/XRLc28 Gary From 63trumpster at bellsouth.net Wed Jan 30 08:16:23 2013 From: 63trumpster at bellsouth.net (Jeff Lee) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 07:16:23 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] penetrating oil Message-ID: <1359558983.19510.YahooMailClassic@web181704.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> A friend turned me on to a can of Fluid Film about 4 months ago. This stuff is great!! It was developed for the navy many years ago. I have not found a stuck corroded rusty nut it could not free yet. It bubbles and leaves behind rust preventative. Has a bit of a funky smell, but don't they all? It's made of wool oil. http://www.fluidfilmsalesusa.com/about/ It can be purchased from Grainger: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/FLUID-FILM-LubricantCorrosion-Inhibitor-10N7 83?gclid=CNa5hbaukLUCFQVgMgodXW4AFg&cm_mmc=PPC:GooglePLA-_-Fleet%20and%20Vehi cle%20Maintenance-_-Automotive%20Chemicals-_-10N783&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=10 N783&ef_id=jQ1Pvjkur28AAFBB:20130130150949:s NFI The "List" rocks! thanks guys Jeff Lee 63 TR4 22144 Easley, SC From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed Jan 30 08:26:26 2013 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 10:26:26 -0500 Subject: [TR] More Bad Links Message-ID: <467F7108C07049E59A1E029CCF0941DF@BobDell> I'm getting hit with a ton of these "bad links" from a wide variety of Mail List user email names....... did the list get hacked and email addresses grabbed? Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/ 1975 TR6 modified with: -Throttle Body Injection -Toyota 5 Speed -Nissan Differential -AAW Wire Harness -CVJs... and more From 63trumpster at bellsouth.net Wed Jan 30 08:40:17 2013 From: 63trumpster at bellsouth.net (Jeff Lee) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 07:40:17 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] More Bad Links In-Reply-To: <467F7108C07049E59A1E029CCF0941DF@BobDell> Message-ID: <1359560417.50944.YahooMailClassic@web181705.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> >>>"Hi"<<< seems to be the word to look out for. --- On Wed, 1/30/13, Bob <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote: From: Bob <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> Subject: [TR] More Bad Links To: triumphs at autox.team.net Date: Wednesday, January 30, 2013, 10:26 AM I'm getting hit with a ton of these "bad links" from a wide variety of Mail List user email names....... did the list get hacked and email addresses grabbed? Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/ 1975 TR6 modified with: -Throttle Body Injection -Toyota 5 Speed -Nissan Differential -AAW Wire Harness -CVJs... and more ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/63trumpster at bellsouth.net From tjwakeman at gmail.com Wed Jan 30 08:46:32 2013 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 08:46:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] More Bad Links In-Reply-To: <467F7108C07049E59A1E029CCF0941DF@BobDell> References: <467F7108C07049E59A1E029CCF0941DF@BobDell> Message-ID: <51094058.6060600@gmail.com> On 1/30/13 8:26 AM, Bob wrote: > I'm getting hit with a ton of these "bad links" from a wide variety > of Mail List user email names....... did the list get hacked and email > addresses grabbed? I don't think the list got hacked. I think that the virus went viral and the individuals on the list who are sending out the viral link are all hacked. That's why I never open a link unless it is accompanied by convincing non generic text explaining what the link is to. And even then I will not if it seems remotely suspicious. TeriAnn From wbeech at flash.net Wed Jan 30 08:52:09 2013 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 09:52:09 -0600 Subject: [TR] More Bad Links In-Reply-To: <1359560417.50944.YahooMailClassic@web181705.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <467F7108C07049E59A1E029CCF0941DF@BobDell> <1359560417.50944.YahooMailClassic@web181705.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4D5EDFD6479F4B768EFAF7C36FC2C237@bboffice> I have been real careful with my internet usage, BUT if any gets one of these from me, please let me know. If you will change your password it will fix it, for this time. Thanks, Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby" '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab) www.triumphowners.com/1566 '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" "If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow" M.Andretti -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jeff Lee Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2013 9:40 AM To: list Subject: Re: [TR] More Bad Links >>>"Hi"<<< seems to be the word to look out for. --- On Wed, 1/30/13, Bob <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote: From: Bob <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> Subject: [TR] More Bad Links To: triumphs at autox.team.net Date: Wednesday, January 30, 2013, 10:26 AM I'm getting hit with a ton of these "bad links" from a wide variety of Mail List user email names....... did the list get hacked and email addresses grabbed? Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/ 1975 TR6 modified with: -Throttle Body Injection -Toyota 5 Speed -Nissan Differential -AAW Wire Harness -CVJs... and more ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/63trumpster at bellsouth.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Wed Jan 30 09:45:10 2013 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 08:45:10 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] More Bad Links In-Reply-To: <51094058.6060600@gmail.com> References: <467F7108C07049E59A1E029CCF0941DF@BobDell> <51094058.6060600@gmail.com> Message-ID: <1359564310.36117.YahooMailNeo@web120002.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> i don't understand how just opening mail can download a virus to my computer. i do understand clicking the link in the initial email has caused some of you to be hacked. as i have been in the past. maybe those of you more savy than me can explain in very simple terms how just opening mail can get me hacked. From: TeriAnn J. Wakeman To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2013 7:46 AM Subject: Re: [TR] More Bad Links On 1/30/13 8:26 AM, Bob wrote: > I'm getting hit with a ton of these "bad links" from a wide variety of Mail List user email names....... did the list get hacked and email addresses grabbed? I don't think the list got hacked. I think that the virus went viral and the individuals on the list who are sending out the viral link are all hacked. That's why I never open a link unless it is accompanied by convincing non generic text explaining what the link is to. And even then I will not if it seems remotely suspicious. TeriAnn ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Wed Jan 30 09:48:29 2013 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 08:48:29 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Subject: TR4 front end bacing Message-ID: <1359564509.48779.YahooMailNeo@web160104.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Hi list! 1st- I want to apologize to anyone you received an E-mail from me with an attachment that i did NOT state what was in it. I've been hacked & don't open up anything. 2nd- On bracing the front suspension. I haven't had a chance to do it, yet, but I've purchased the 4 lower F suspension frame rail mounting brackets from a TR6 (which has two studs to mount to the frame vs stud that's found on the TR4/A's). The TR6's makes better sense to me, because IF (hopefully not) the one stud should brake on the TR4/A's set-up, then you have BIG problems when driving {weather it's on local street speeds or on highway speeds}. But the TR6 set-up would 'Hopefully' give you a chance to be able to pull off the road SAFELY! Also, I think if you check with tony at RADCO Frames, he'll tell you to gusset up the frame. Well, it's back to peddling home in 60+^F weather, rain & headwinds of 25+MPH. Stay warm & keep working on your TRIUMPHs! -Cosmo Kramer From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Wed Jan 30 11:28:31 2013 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 11:28:31 -0700 Subject: [TR] penetrating oil In-Reply-To: <1359558983.19510.YahooMailClassic@web181704.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1359558983.19510.YahooMailClassic@web181704.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: On Wed, Jan 30, 2013 at 8:16 AM, Jeff Lee <63trumpster at bellsouth.net> wrote: > A friend turned me on to a can of Fluid Film about 4 months ago. This > stuff > is great!! I, too, have been using Fluid Film. I still use PBlaster for penetrating oil but the FF seems to be a good choice for rust proofing as it is easy to spray in cavities, creeps well and unlike most spray oils seems never to evaporate. Also makes cast metal parts look nice if you're detailing (e.g. master cylinders). I found it at a local tractor supply store (which is itself hard to find in Tucson AZ). I think its main ingredient is Lanolin. Geo From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Wed Jan 30 11:32:57 2013 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 12:32:57 -0600 (CST) Subject: [TR] Bad Links Message-ID: <24503599.127025.1359570777274.JavaMail.root@vznit170128> For what it's worth - I use verizon.net email. None of the infecting items made it to my inbox. One of the few benefits to this service. It doesn't block a lot of junk mail but anything with an attachment or active link is scanned (I do receive images, links, etc so it doesn't block everything) Carl 1961 TR3A - TS81802LO mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a Tampa, Florida From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed Jan 30 11:56:33 2013 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 13:56:33 -0500 Subject: [TR] Bad Links In-Reply-To: <24503599.127025.1359570777274.JavaMail.root@vznit170128> References: <24503599.127025.1359570777274.JavaMail.root@vznit170128> Message-ID: I use a product called Mail Washer Pro which doesn't download anything to my PC but lets me look at the email on the mail server......... then I can decide to download it or not. If I choose not to download it, Mail Washer removes it from the mail server. Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/ 1975 TR6 modified with: -Throttle Body Injection -Toyota 5 Speed -Nissan Differential -AAW Wire Harness -CVJs... and more -----Original Message----- From: Carl TR Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2013 1:32 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Bad Links For what it's worth - I use verizon.net email. None of the infecting items made it to my inbox. One of the few benefits to this service. It doesn't block a lot of junk mail but anything with an attachment or active link is scanned (I do receive images, links, etc so it doesn't block everything) Carl 1961 TR3A - TS81802LO mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a Tampa, Florida ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jan 30 12:36:07 2013 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 11:36:07 -0800 Subject: [TR] More Bad Links In-Reply-To: <1359564310.36117.YahooMailNeo@web120002.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <78.5B.25866.22679015@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> > i don't understand how just opening mail can download a virus > to my computer. In theory, it shouldn't be able to. But HTML and Java are basically limited programming languages, so opening your email is allowing an unknown program to run on your computer. They aren't supposed to allow anything that could install a virus; but there are always bugs. And there are an amazing number of very bright people out there with apparently nothing better to do than find those bugs and a way to exploit them. Another problem is that HTML (& Java) can pull in graphics from other sources (often just a single pixel that goes unnoticed). That lets a spammer know that there is a human reading your email address; which makes the address more valuable to other spammers. Then there is the accident factor. Some folks (me for example) are so clumsy that sometimes we click where we didn't mean to. -- Randall From moira.secrest at verizon.net Wed Jan 30 12:40:34 2013 From: moira.secrest at verizon.net (M. Secrest) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 14:40:34 -0500 Subject: [TR] '72 TR6 Clutch, Flywheel In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Winter project underway. New clutch, for one thing. Is the TRF Magic Clutch the only best possibility still? Not interested in doing the clutch twice, but it is a pricey kit. Also, are there supposed to be locking tabs on the flywheel bolt heads? There were none on disassembly. Martin Secrest From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jan 30 12:45:03 2013 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 11:45:03 -0800 Subject: [TR] More Bad Links In-Reply-To: <467F7108C07049E59A1E029CCF0941DF@BobDell> Message-ID: > I'm getting hit with a ton of these "bad links" from a wide > variety of Mail List user email names....... did the list get > hacked and email addresses grabbed? I don't think so. And I also don't think others on the list got infected (this time). Instead, I believe the hackers are breaking into email accounts and then using them to send their spam to every address in the contact list. All of the recent messages have been from just 2 or 3 ISPs (whom I believe are not as careful about user account security as they might be). But that's just a SWAG. -- Randall From pethier at comcast.net Wed Jan 30 12:52:09 2013 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 19:52:09 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] penetrating oil In-Reply-To: <1359558983.19510.YahooMailClassic@web181704.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1030394885.208052.1359575529035.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> I buy Fluid Film at the local John Deere dealer. I use it every fall all over the chassis of the Suburban. Seems that GM can find good paint for the body but not for the frame. Right next to a perfect underbody is a frame with no paint on it at all. I have never tried Fluid Film for bolt-and-nut removal. PB Blaster has worked fine for me. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier at comcast.net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica http://www.mnautox.com http://www.mntriumphs.org ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Jeff Lee" <63trumpster at bellsouth.net> > To: "list" > Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2013 9:16:23 AM > Subject: Re: [TR] penetrating oil > A friend turned me on to a can of Fluid Film about 4 months ago. This > stuff > is great!! It was developed for the navy many years ago. I have not > found a > stuck corroded rusty nut it could not free yet. It bubbles and leaves > behind > rust preventative. Has a bit of a funky smell, but don't they all? > It's made > of wool oil. > > http://www.fluidfilmsalesusa.com/about/ > > It can be purchased from Grainger: > > http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/FLUID-FILM-LubricantCorrosion-Inhibitor-10N7 > 83?gclid=CNa5hbaukLUCFQVgMgodXW4AFg&cm_mmc=PPC:GooglePLA-_-Fleet%20and%20Vehi > cle%20Maintenance-_-Automotive%20Chemicals-_-10N783&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=10 > N783&ef_id=jQ1Pvjkur28AAFBB:20130130150949:s > > NFI > The "List" rocks! thanks guys > Jeff Lee > 63 TR4 22144 > Easley, SC > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net From pethier at comcast.net Wed Jan 30 12:53:58 2013 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 19:53:58 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] More Bad Links In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1260862444.208116.1359575638835.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> First on the list: Don't put anything in the address book of a Microsoft mail program! Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier at comcast.net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica http://www.mnautox.com http://www.mntriumphs.org ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Randall" > To: "Bob" <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>, triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2013 1:45:03 PM > Subject: Re: [TR] More Bad Links > > I'm getting hit with a ton of these "bad links" from a wide > > variety of Mail List user email names....... did the list get > > hacked and email addresses grabbed? > > I don't think so. And I also don't think others on the list got > infected > (this time). Instead, I believe the hackers are breaking into email > accounts and then using them to send their spam to every address in > the > contact list. All of the recent messages have been from just 2 or 3 > ISPs > (whom I believe are not as careful about user account security as they > might > be). > > But that's just a SWAG. > > -- Randall > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net From 63trumpster at bellsouth.net Wed Jan 30 16:04:15 2013 From: 63trumpster at bellsouth.net (Jeff Lee) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 15:04:15 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] list hey Message-ID: <1359587055.7027.androidMobile@web181705.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> check this page out http://msn.nbcnews.com-im7.net/finance/ Jeff From mark at bradakis.com Wed Jan 30 16:37:44 2013 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 16:37:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] Drat. Message-ID: <5109AEC8.5080100@bradakis.com> I really need to get some filters set up to keep that crap from hijacked emails getting through. My apologies for not doing it sooner. mjb. From thenicholls at verizon.net Wed Jan 30 16:46:00 2013 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 17:46:00 -0600 (CST) Subject: [TR] '72 TR6 Clutch, Flywheel Message-ID: <19453276.199089.1359589560097.JavaMail.root@vznit170116> Martin, Really curious on this myself, I have a 72 TR6 and have been looking at the Magic Clutch with the uprated Koyo bearing. We shall see the wisdom of the list. Craig On 01/30/13, M. Secrest wrote: Winter project underway. New clutch, for one thing. Is the TRF Magic Clutch the only best possibility still? Not interested in doing the clutch twice, but it is a pricey kit. Also, are there supposed to be locking tabs on the flywheel bolt heads? There were none on disassembly. Martin Secrest ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Wed Jan 30 16:52:06 2013 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 15:52:06 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Drat. In-Reply-To: <5109AEC8.5080100@bradakis.com> References: <5109AEC8.5080100@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <1359589926.63250.YahooMailNeo@web120001.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> oh Mark its not your fault your the good guy in all this its us dumb *&% clicking the link :-) From: Mark J Bradakis To: Triumphs ; mgs ; Spitfires at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2013 3:37 PM Subject: [TR] Drat. I really need to get some filters set up to keep that crap from hijacked emails getting through. My apologies for not doing it sooner. mjb. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com Wed Jan 30 18:12:17 2013 From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (triumph74tr6) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 19:12:17 -0600 Subject: [TR] '72 TR6 Clutch, Flywheel Message-ID: I've had that parts combo in my '76 for 10 years....love it....no issues. Chad in Tulsathenicholls at verizon.net wrote:Martin, Really curious on this myself, I have a 72 TR6 and have been looking at the Magic Clutch with the uprated Koyo bearing. We shall see the wisdom of the list. Craig On 01/30/13, M. Secrest wrote: Winter project underway. New clutch, for one thing. Is the TRF Magic Clutch the only best possibility still? Not interested in doing the clutch twice, but it is a pricey kit. Also, are there supposed to be locking tabs on the flywheel bolt heads? There were none on disassembly. Martin Secrest ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com From mark at bradakis.com Wed Jan 30 18:58:38 2013 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 18:58:38 -0700 Subject: [TR] '72 TR6 Clutch, Flywheel In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5109CFCE.3080907@bradakis.com> I have to relate a story about the TRF clutch kit. Actually this may be in the archives, I wrote about it at the time it happened, as I recall. So I'm working at Bailey's and this one particular TR6 needed some clutch work. I convinced the owner that the TRF Magic Kit was the way to go, he agreed, we got the parts. I installed them, buttoned everything up and started the car. The shop was filled with this hideous screeching. Shut it off, back on the lift, checking the hydraulics, pushrods and such. Nothing obvious, fire it up, again the screeching. We did what we could from outside the bellhousing, nothing made a difference. Bit the bullet and pulled out the gearbox once again. Close inspection showed the pressure plate fingers were NOT running against the face of the throwout bearing, but the edge of the bearing carrier. On the phone with TRF straight away, and probably a message or two to this list. Turns out that the pressure plate they sent us was not the correct one. But they had no idea, because it had been boxed wrong wherever it had been made. So TRF was not to blame, but they took the responsibility. Sent us the proper part overnight at their expense. I checked, double checked and checked again that it was the proper part. Installed it, got it all back together, worked great. Now the folks at TRF, being the car people they are, know what it takes to install a new clutch. They weren't willing to just cover all the extra labor costs involved in installing the wrong part. What they did do was give the owner of the car a nice credit towards parts. I convinced him that he should spend it on the bits to get the gearbox rebuilt, as there were some issues with it I noticed before. Anyway, the clutch and tranny are still going strong. TRF showed great character in handling the situation. Yes, the owner did end up paying us a bit more than he should have, I worked a modest number of hours without charge, Bailey's lost a bit in labor charges, but it seemed like a very reasonable end to the entire affair. Way to go TRF! mjb. From ebuzzmiller at comcast.net Wed Jan 30 22:30:41 2013 From: ebuzzmiller at comcast.net (Eric Miller) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 21:30:41 -0800 Subject: [TR] '72 TR6 Clutch, Flywheel In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <510A0181.8080409@comcast.net> When I did my 4A ten years ago I went with the Sachs pressure plate (which I believe comes from the Saab 900) and the Koyo bearing. I recall both being much less expensive than the magic clutch and so far so good on my car (although I've only put maybe 5,000 miles on it in ten years...) Here's some more info http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/clutch/ReliableClutch/ReliableClutch.htm -Eric Miller '65 4A On 1/30/2013 11:40 AM, M. Secrest wrote: > Winter project underway. New clutch, for one thing. Is the TRF Magic Clutch > the only best possibility still? Not interested in doing the clutch twice, > but it is a pricey kit. > > Also, are there supposed to be locking tabs on the flywheel bolt heads? There > were none on disassembly. > > Martin Secrest > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ebuzzmiller at comcast.net From jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com Thu Jan 31 12:35:10 2013 From: jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com (John Young) Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2013 11:35:10 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] hi Message-ID: <1359660910.77503.androidMobile@web181105.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> check this page out http://bit.ly/WUiHC9 John From dave at ranteer.com Thu Jan 31 14:07:46 2013 From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave) Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2013 15:07:46 -0600 Subject: [TR] completely off topic Message-ID: <6F04479377A14B218FBED910EC39AB09@Datsun> I have an umbrella stand. umbrella blew over, stand base broke. its concrete. its one long jagged break. anyone know of a good way to glue/patch/put it back together? thanks and sorry for the totally off topic post From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Thu Jan 31 18:33:17 2013 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2013 17:33:17 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] hi Message-ID: <1359682397.83483.androidMobile@web120604.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> hey have a look http://bit.ly/12cgZSr Gary From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Thu Jan 31 18:33:24 2013 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2013 17:33:24 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] hi Message-ID: <1359682404.53217.androidMobile@web120606.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> hey have a look http://bit.ly/12cgZSr Gary From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk Wed Jan 30 12:18:42 2013 From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 19:18:42 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] Apologies Message-ID: <1359573522.71349.YahooMailNeo@web171905.mail.ir2.yahoo.com> My sincere apologies to everyone who received a virus / work / Trojan Horse from me over the last 24 hours. I've no idea where it came from but looking at a few posts, it seems I may not be the only offender? For my part, I've run my virus checker through my whole system and changed my email password. Hopefully that will sort things out? Apologies once again. Jonmac