From ptegler at verizon.net  Sat Feb  2 06:50:38 2013
From: ptegler at verizon.net (ptegler)
Date: Sat, 02 Feb 2013 08:50:38 -0500
Subject: [TR] [MG-MGB] not MG but collector related
Message-ID: <51C793F3DA174FE3A7BFEE73104149E6@dragonlairii>

Anyone in the Baltimore area... Crazy Rays yard down Hawkins Point has three 
Corvairs all in one row. Two look totally restorable!
There were two Metropolitans even (*neither worth a second look other than 
the oddity of seeing them there.


Paul Tegler
ptegler at verizon.net
www.teglerizer.com 

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Sat Feb  2 13:07:07 2013
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2013 12:07:07 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TR3 advance curve
Message-ID: <1359835627.24315.YahooMailNeo@web120005.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

in section M on page 33 of the triumph service instruction manual it shows the
advance curve for the ignition.
im assuming this curve is measured with the
vacuum advance disconnected. no?
 
thanks
Frank

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Feb  2 18:04:50 2013
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2013 17:04:50 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3 advance curve
In-Reply-To: <1359835627.24315.YahooMailNeo@web120005.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <5A.60.25866.EA7BD015@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> in section M on page 33 of the triumph service instruction 
> manual it shows the advance curve for the ignition.
> im assuming this curve is measured with the vacuum advance 
> disconnected. no?

That's what I would think ... But the chart doesn't seem to match the
numbers given on page 19 either with or without the advance included.  Nor
do they match the numbers for the later 40480 distributor. So ???

-- Randall 

From triumphs at consolidated.net  Sat Feb  2 21:02:09 2013
From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Home Consolidated)
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2013 22:02:09 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR3 advance curve
In-Reply-To: <5A.60.25866.EA7BD015@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
References: <5A.60.25866.EA7BD015@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <C5D3B12C-83CA-4F89-8647-33AA20AC4D56@consolidated.net>

I remember looking at this four or five years ago, as I recall the various
Lucas numbers all had different advance curves. And different numbers were
used at different times.

Mallory sells their MGB distributor as a direct replacement for our Triumph
Lucas  #. I am guessing that any thing that can be made to fit can be curved
close to the original setting (or any other setting your particular engine
might need).

Ken Gano

Sent from my iPad

On Feb 2, 2013, at 7:04 PM, "Randall" <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

>> in section M on page 33 of the triumph service instruction
>> manual it shows the advance curve for the ignition.
>> im assuming this curve is measured with the vacuum advance
>> disconnected. no?
>
> That's what I would think ... But the chart doesn't seem to match the
> numbers given on page 19 either with or without the advance included.  Nor
> do they match the numbers for the later 40480 distributor. So ???
>
> -- Randall
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumphs at consolidated.net

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Sun Feb  3 07:38:08 2013
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2013 09:38:08 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 Seat frame common problems
Message-ID: <CANhzkePUWQMopRqfYRt6H_7MbmYzAnvVZ6C_hWdA6J0Vyhoh_Q@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Team,

I've looked on the web and in the archives - (Buckeye, RedRiver, 6-pack,
other various message boards). Other than wire brushing and blasting - are
there any other preventive measures I should take with the frames,  common
problems I can avoid later?

I've been doing some mechanical work on the 6 - I've welded up the diff
mounts front and rear; replaced the ujoints; and am waiting for my diff to
come back from my gearman (that and rear hubs are about the only thing on
this car I did not want to do myself).

So while waiting, I figured I'd tackle the interior - dashboard and
seats primarily.

I removed the seat cover from seat 1 - no rips or tears.  And dumped out a
pile of crumbly decayed foam all over my bench, floor and feet.  The frame
was covered in duct tape and a few pieces of foam here and there, so the
covers have come off once before or are replacement covers. I also made
11cents and think I found a half of something that resembles a hand rolled
cigarette... oh the tales our cars could tell.

My plan (for now)  is to replace the diaphragms  cut some hi
density foam for the seat and middle density for the backs and put the
covers back on.  I intend to keep the covers a bit loose to reduce the
chance of them splitting apart once the new foam applies pressure.  Fingers
crossed.

There are two knobs on the side of the seat.I hadn't figured out what they
do as neither one moves.  The chrome one is for reclining the seat - after
alot of PB blaster, this now works. I think the other pointy knob is for
sticking in your butt cheek as you enter the car.  That hurts!!!  i'm
hoping that some foam in the seats will reduce the pain.

So - back to the original question:  Other than wire brushing and blasting
- are there any other preventive measures I should take with the frames,
 common problems I can avoid later?

Thanks

From guy at genfiniti.com  Sun Feb  3 07:55:25 2013
From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins)
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2013 08:55:25 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR6 Seat frame common problems
In-Reply-To: <CANhzkePUWQMopRqfYRt6H_7MbmYzAnvVZ6C_hWdA6J0Vyhoh_Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANhzkePUWQMopRqfYRt6H_7MbmYzAnvVZ6C_hWdA6J0Vyhoh_Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6FB6C22C-86AB-4442-B2F5-D644C12B332E@genfiniti.com>

Yes.  Cover or round-off any sharp edges that will press against the covers.
I learned this the hard way when a sharp edge tore my brand-effing new
passenger's side seat cover.


On Feb 3, 2013, at 8:38 AM, Chris Simo wrote:

> Hi Team,
>
> I've looked on the web and in the archives - (Buckeye, RedRiver, 6-pack,
> other various message boards). Other than wire brushing and blasting - are
> there any other preventive measures I should take with the frames,  common
> problems I can avoid later?
>
> I've been doing some mechanical work on the 6 - I've welded up the diff
> mounts front and rear; replaced the ujoints; and am waiting for my diff to
> come back from my gearman (that and rear hubs are about the only thing on
> this car I did not want to do myself).
>
> So while waiting, I figured I'd tackle the interior - dashboard and
> seats primarily.
>
> I removed the seat cover from seat 1 - no rips or tears.  And dumped out a
> pile of crumbly decayed foam all over my bench, floor and feet.  The frame
> was covered in duct tape and a few pieces of foam here and there, so the
> covers have come off once before or are replacement covers. I also made
> 11cents and think I found a half of something that resembles a hand rolled
> cigarette... oh the tales our cars could tell.
>
> My plan (for now)  is to replace the diaphragms  cut some hi
> density foam for the seat and middle density for the backs and put the
> covers back on.  I intend to keep the covers a bit loose to reduce the
> chance of them splitting apart once the new foam applies pressure.  Fingers
> crossed.
>
> There are two knobs on the side of the seat.I hadn't figured out what they
> do as neither one moves.  The chrome one is for reclining the seat - after
> alot of PB blaster, this now works. I think the other pointy knob is for
> sticking in your butt cheek as you enter the car.  That hurts!!!  i'm
> hoping that some foam in the seats will reduce the pain.
>
> So - back to the original question:  Other than wire brushing and blasting
> - are there any other preventive measures I should take with the frames,
> common problems I can avoid later?
>
> Thanks
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/guy at genfiniti.com

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Sun Feb  3 08:32:16 2013
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2013 09:32:16 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR6 Seat frame common problems
In-Reply-To: <6FB6C22C-86AB-4442-B2F5-D644C12B332E@genfiniti.com>
References: <CANhzkePUWQMopRqfYRt6H_7MbmYzAnvVZ6C_hWdA6J0Vyhoh_Q@mail.gmail.com>
	<6FB6C22C-86AB-4442-B2F5-D644C12B332E@genfiniti.com>
Message-ID: <252FF32230E2418E80477FF7AE80EA4E@livingroompc>

I don't know if I have great words of wisdom as to how to preserve the seat 
frames, but I will say that I know they can rust, my TR250 frames were 
mostly crumbly red flakes on the bottom portions.  I spent quite a bit of 
time fabricating and welding and grinding up some fiddly little bits to 
repair it.

But this was on a car that had been stored indoors and outdoors and who 
knows where for many years, unless you live in a very corrosive environment, 
such as down by the ocean the things should last pretty long with a fresh 
coat of paint.  I like to use Rust Oleum rusty metal primer followed by the 
appropriate top coat color from them, and have painted many parts as well as 
rusty cast iron outdoor furniture with the stuff and it seems to hold 
corrosion at bay pretty well.

Or you could use epoxy primer, but that may be overkill.

Let us know how the foam replacement goes, I put a 1/2" thick foam piece in 
the seat base to bolster up the seats (which worked pretty well) and to try 
to control the  crumbling of the stuff that was in there, but mine still 
leave lots of little bits of foam rubber under the seats.

Greg Lemon 

From jagmog at hotmail.com  Sun Feb  3 08:43:58 2013
From: jagmog at hotmail.com (Jonas Payne)
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2013 07:43:58 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR6 Seat frame common problems - TR3
Message-ID: <BAY173-DS246B64425E5F3032D666AFC6020@phx.gbl>

On a somewhat related topic, a customer brought in his TR3 seat bottoms
yesterday, which had the spring and horsehair monstrosities replaced with
foam and a wire grill at the bottom.  

I'm kind of partial to the spring and horsehair setup in my TR3.  

Has anybody purchased the re-pop ones from TRF?  Are they any good, are they
worth looking into, or should we just stick with the foam?





Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting
702-882-6711

From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Sun Feb  3 09:06:51 2013
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2013 10:06:51 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR6 Seat frame common problems - TR3
In-Reply-To: <BAY173-DS246B64425E5F3032D666AFC6020@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY173-DS246B64425E5F3032D666AFC6020@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <CAPK7CFCXcvznVZM3EC5AKx4OmoKO3HTejEYvkRJhRhaUtsSHCg@mail.gmail.com>

I put the TRF horsehair/fabric kits (RFK258) on my TR3B last year and am
perfectly satisfied with the results.  So close to the originals one
can't tell the difference.

http://trf.zeni.net/webcatalog/specials8.6/7.php

Don

On 2/3/13, Jonas Payne <jagmog at hotmail.com> wrote:
> On a somewhat related topic, a customer brought in his TR3 seat bottoms
> yesterday, which had the spring and horsehair monstrosities replaced with
> foam and a wire grill at the bottom.
>
> I'm kind of partial to the spring and horsehair setup in my TR3.
>
> Has anybody purchased the re-pop ones from TRF?  Are they any good, are
> they
> worth looking into, or should we just stick with the foam?
>
>
>
>
>
> Jonas Payne
> PBR Consulting
> 702-882-6711
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Feb  3 11:40:26 2013
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2013 13:40:26 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] TR6 Seat frame common problems - TR3
Message-ID: <5dc.40263457.3e400919@cs.com>

The new springs from TRF are much better than the originals I had (which 
may have been much degraded from how they were when new, but I don't know)  
The new seat kits come with padding as an intermediary between the springs and 
the upholstery and seems to work well enough.  The new seats are more 
comfortable than the old seats but the old seats used to bottom out.  And I ain't 
all that heavy.

Dave

In a message dated 2/3/2013 9:53:17 AM Central Standard Time, 
jagmog at hotmail.com writes: 
> On a somewhat related topic, a customer brought in his TR3 seat bottoms
> yesterday, which had the spring and horsehair monstrosities replaced with
> foam and a wire grill at the bottom.  
> 
> I'm kind of partial to the spring and horsehair setup in my TR3.  
> 
> Has anybody purchased the re-pop ones from TRF?  Are they any good, are 
> they
> worth looking into, or should we just stick with the foam?

From rcateb at comcast.net  Sun Feb  3 18:26:20 2013
From: rcateb at comcast.net (Bob and Trish)
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2013 19:26:20 -0600
Subject: [TR] Storm Sandy Flood Vehicles
Message-ID: <71BD60C709AC47CFBB8273442B65970E@RCA>

We on the MG enthusiast pages have seen some MG's previously identified as
storm Sandy total loss flood damaged salvage showing up on ebay as a "clean"
recently restored resale with no notice of the flood damage or prior branded
salvage title. Titles have been "washed" thru New Hampshire.  So if you are in
the buying mode please be diligent if buying a vehicle out of the NE and
especially if it has recent NH title documentation.

From lgmtr6 at yahoo.com  Mon Feb  4 05:48:05 2013
From: lgmtr6 at yahoo.com (Triumph List)
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2013 07:48:05 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 Seat frame common problems
In-Reply-To: <CANhzkePUWQMopRqfYRt6H_7MbmYzAnvVZ6C_hWdA6J0Vyhoh_Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANhzkePUWQMopRqfYRt6H_7MbmYzAnvVZ6C_hWdA6J0Vyhoh_Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <EBDFE41A-AC3A-4BF8-9CE1-6A233786876E@yahoo.com>

Chris
I've done about 6 sets of TR6 seats and I can say that if the frames aren't
rusty you should be fine. Sand, prime, paint and lubricate the hinges. The
"butt cheek" sticker is to disengage the seat from the rear catch so you can
pull the seat forward and give access to the area behind the seats. You'll
have to fiddle with the adjustment to ensure the seat actually locks down to
the runners. As far as using old covers, I've done it and don't recommend it.
While they may seem in good condition, once you start using them the stitching
gives way and they usually fall apart. Now you end up doing it all over again.
I would recommend replacing them while you have them apart. The old saying of
"do it right or do it twice" has bitten my more than once and it's too big a
job to have to do twice. Also, Victoria British used to have a very nice
booklet on reupholstering TR6 seats which was part of the catalogue. You may
find it posted on line.
Larry Miceli

Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 3, 2013, at 9:38 AM, Chris Simo <ccsimonsen at gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi Team,
>
> I've looked on the web and in the archives - (Buckeye, RedRiver, 6-pack,
> other various message boards). Other than wire brushing and blasting - are
> there any other preventive measures I should take with the frames,  common
> problems I can avoid later?
>
> I've been doing some mechanical work on the 6 - I've welded up the diff
> mounts front and rear; replaced the ujoints; and am waiting for my diff to
> come back from my gearman (that and rear hubs are about the only thing on
> this car I did not want to do myself).
>
> So while waiting, I figured I'd tackle the interior - dashboard and
> seats primarily.
>
> I removed the seat cover from seat 1 - no rips or tears.  And dumped out a
> pile of crumbly decayed foam all over my bench, floor and feet.  The frame
> was covered in duct tape and a few pieces of foam here and there, so the
> covers have come off once before or are replacement covers. I also made
> 11cents and think I found a half of something that resembles a hand rolled
> cigarette... oh the tales our cars could tell.
>
> My plan (for now)  is to replace the diaphragms  cut some hi
> density foam for the seat and middle density for the backs and put the
> covers back on.  I intend to keep the covers a bit loose to reduce the
> chance of them splitting apart once the new foam applies pressure.  Fingers
> crossed.
>
> There are two knobs on the side of the seat.I hadn't figured out what they
> do as neither one moves.  The chrome one is for reclining the seat - after
> alot of PB blaster, this now works. I think the other pointy knob is for
> sticking in your butt cheek as you enter the car.  That hurts!!!  i'm
> hoping that some foam in the seats will reduce the pain.
>
> So - back to the original question:  Other than wire brushing and blasting
> - are there any other preventive measures I should take with the frames,
> common problems I can avoid later?
>
> Thanks
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/lgmtr6 at yahoo.com

From spook01 at comcast.net  Mon Feb  4 12:25:25 2013
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Mon, 04 Feb 2013 13:25:25 -0600
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Storm_Sandy_Flood_Vehicles?=
Message-ID: <mailman.57.1360006245.1934.triumphs@autox.team.net>

What's in an mg that can't take a splash of sea water?  ;-)

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Bob and Trish" <rcateb at comcast.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Storm Sandy Flood Vehicles
Date: Sun, Feb 3, 2013 19:26


We on the MG enthusiast pages have seen some MG's previously identified as
storm Sandy total loss flood damaged salvage showing up on ebay as a "clean"
recently restored resale with no notice of the flood damage or prior branded
salvage title. Titles have been "washed" thru New Hampshire.  So if you are in
the buying mode please be diligent if buying a vehicle out of the NE and
especially if it has recent NH title documentation.

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Mon Feb  4 13:17:42 2013
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2013 15:17:42 -0500
Subject: [TR] aluminum radiators
Message-ID: <019201ce0314$b0aa8ec0$11ffac40$@uprichard.net>

I see aluminum radiators being advertised on eBay for not much more than the
cost of recoring my old one.  Does anyone have experience with these
radiators?

Andrew Uprichard

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon Feb  4 13:45:42 2013
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob)
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2013 15:45:42 -0500
Subject: [TR] Storm Sandy Flood Vehicles
In-Reply-To: <20130204193446.75AC940432@autox.team.net>
References: <20130204193446.75AC940432@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <6E33F6CF82AF4F7F816A15E01570B333@BobDell>

It was also posted to The 6-Pack Forum as a buyer beware........ The guy was 
selling the MGB on eBay with a clear NH title (someone washing titles?) but 
the MG guys found the car had been bought at auction as flood damaged with a 
salvage only title. Same car right down to the VIN and mileage. I think they 
started questioning the eBay guy who then pulled the listing. Someone bought 
it at salvage for $975 and he put it on eBay for $5400. Here's the two 
links:

http://www.insurancedirectautos.com/StockDetail.asp?StockID=27123002&YardID=135&DSID=4

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MG-MGB-RED-1977-MG-MGB-ROADSTER-NICE-CAR-SORTED-WEBER-CARB-RUST-FREE-ORIG-COND-/271147038649?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item3f219f77b9

eBay link as a Tiny URL  http://tinyurl.com/ckbz4km

Bob


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/

1975 TR6 modified with:
-Throttle Body Injection
-Toyota 5 Speed
-Nissan Differential
-AAW Wire Harness
-CVJs... and more


-----Original Message----- 
From: spook01 at comcast.net
Sent: Monday, February 04, 2013 2:25 PM
To: Bob and Trish ; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Storm Sandy Flood Vehicles

What's in an mg that can't take a splash of sea water?  ;-)

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Bob and Trish" <rcateb at comcast.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Storm Sandy Flood Vehicles
Date: Sun, Feb 3, 2013 19:26


We on the MG enthusiast pages have seen some MG's previously identified as
storm Sandy total loss flood damaged salvage showing up on ebay as a "clean"
recently restored resale with no notice of the flood damage or prior branded
salvage title. Titles have been "washed" thru New Hampshire.  So if you are 
in
the buying mode please be diligent if buying a vehicle out of the NE and
especially if it has recent NH title documentation.

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From spook01 at comcast.net  Mon Feb  4 13:57:45 2013
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Mon, 04 Feb 2013 14:57:45 -0600
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Storm_Sandy_Flood_Vehicles?=
Message-ID: <mailman.58.1360011785.1934.triumphs@autox.team.net>

Yeah.  This happens everytime a 'cane comes ashore.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Bob" <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
To: "Bob and Trish" <rcateb at comcast.net>, <triumphs at autox.team.net>, <spook01 at comcast.net>
Subject: [TR] Storm Sandy Flood Vehicles
Date: Mon, Feb 4, 2013 14:45


It was also posted to The 6-Pack Forum as a buyer beware........ The guy was selling the MGB on eBay with a clear NH title (someone washing titles?) but the MG guys found the car had been bought at auction as flood damaged with a salvage only title. Same car right down to the VIN and mileage. I think they started questioning the eBay guy who then pulled the listing. Someone bought it at salvage for $975 and he put it on eBay for $5400. Here's the two links:

http://www.insurancedirectautos.com/StockDetail.asp?StockID=27123002&YardID=135&DSID=4

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MG-MGB-RED-1977-MG-MGB-ROADSTER-NICE-CAR-SORTED-WEBER-CARB-RUST-FREE-ORIG-COND-/271147038649?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item3f219f77b9

eBay link as a Tiny URL  http://tinyurl.com/ckbz4km

Bob


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/

1975 TR6 modified with:
-Throttle Body Injection
-Toyota 5 Speed
-Nissan Differential
-AAW Wire Harness
-CVJs... and more


-----Original Message----- From: spook01 at comcast.net
Sent: Monday, February 04, 2013 2:25 PM
To: Bob and Trish ; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Storm Sandy Flood Vehicles

What's in an mg that can't take a splash of sea water?  ;-)

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Bob and Trish" <rcateb at comcast.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Storm Sandy Flood Vehicles
Date: Sun, Feb 3, 2013 19:26


We on the MG enthusiast pages have seen some MG's previously identified as
storm Sandy total loss flood damaged salvage showing up on ebay as a "clean"
recently restored resale with no notice of the flood damage or prior branded
salvage title. Titles have been "washed" thru New Hampshire.  So if you are in
the buying mode please be diligent if buying a vehicle out of the NE and
especially if it has recent NH title documentation.

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Mon Feb  4 14:48:42 2013
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2013 13:48:42 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] aluminum radiators
In-Reply-To: <019201ce0314$b0aa8ec0$11ffac40$@uprichard.net>
References: <019201ce0314$b0aa8ec0$11ffac40$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <1360014522.23354.YahooMailNeo@web120002.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Buddy Curt has had one on his TR3 for about 2/3 years now.
no problems
your
results may vary !!
Frank


________________________________
From: Andrew
Uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent:
Monday, February 4, 2013 12:17 PM
Subject: [TR] aluminum radiators

I see
aluminum radiators being advertised on eBay for not much more than the
cost of
recoring my old one.  Does anyone have experience with these
radiators?
Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From tr6.guy at verizon.net  Mon Feb  4 17:01:08 2013
From: tr6.guy at verizon.net (Gary Klein)
Date: Mon, 04 Feb 2013 19:01:08 -0500
Subject: [TR] Digest Attachments?  What's UP?
Message-ID: <010701ce0333$e69baae0$b3d300a0$@guy@verizon.net>

Anyone know why the Digest is now sending a cover email and the individual
messages as separate attachments?  This is the body of the message:

 

Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to

      triumphs at autox.team.net

 

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit

      http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to

      triumphs-request at autox.team.net

 

You can reach the person managing the list at

      triumphs-owner at autox.team.net

 

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than
"Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..."

 

It used to be one file.  This is very inconvenient.

 

Gary

From mark at bradakis.com  Mon Feb  4 17:24:11 2013
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Mon, 04 Feb 2013 17:24:11 -0700
Subject: [TR] Digest Attachments?  What's UP?
In-Reply-To: <010701ce0333$e69baae0$b3d300a0$@guy@verizon.net>
References: <010701ce0333$e69baae0$b3d300a0$@guy@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <5110512B.5030007@bradakis.com>

I didn't change anything, that I know of.  I'll take a look, though.

mjb.

From mark at bradakis.com  Mon Feb  4 23:17:48 2013
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Mon, 04 Feb 2013 23:17:48 -0700
Subject: [TR] Digest Attachments?  What's UP?
In-Reply-To: <010701ce0333$e69baae0$b3d300a0$@guy@verizon.net>
References: <010701ce0333$e69baae0$b3d300a0$@guy@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <5110A40C.4030500@bradakis.com>

Gary Klein wrote:
> Anyone know why the Digest is now sending a cover email and the individual
> messages as separate attachments?
Didn't find anything out of order, subscribed a test address to digest mode,
will see what happens.

mjb.

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Feb  5 05:56:23 2013
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2013 07:56:23 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] Digest Attachments?  What's UP?
Message-ID: <1cfae.64dc40bb.3e425b77@cs.com>

It could be his ISP.  CompuServe will send photos as attachments which were 
originally embedded in the text.

BTW "UP" is that part of Michigan west of Lake Michigan and north of 
Wisconsin.

Dave

In a message dated 2/5/2013 12:18:30 AM Central Standard Time, 
mark at bradakis.com writes: 
> Gary Klein wrote:
> >Anyone know why the Digest is now sending a cover email and the 
> individual
> >messages as separate attachments?
> Didn't find anything out of order, subscribed a test address to digest 
> mode,
> will see what happens.

From mmarr at notwires.com  Tue Feb  5 06:28:43 2013
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2013 07:28:43 -0600
Subject: [TR] Digest Attachments?  What's UP?
In-Reply-To: <1cfae.64dc40bb.3e425b77@cs.com>
References: <1cfae.64dc40bb.3e425b77@cs.com>
Message-ID: <020701ce03a4$b7d5b900$27812b00$@com>

Dave Massey said:

"BTW "UP" is that part of Michigan west of Lake Michigan and north of
Wisconsin."

The (da) UP is one of two homes of the Cornish Pasty in the US (the other is
Mineral Point, WI) and home to Da Yoopers:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kb9yhhflmvY

Mike (ex-cheesehead)

From greg at gelhar.com  Tue Feb  5 17:24:06 2013
From: greg at gelhar.com (greg at gelhar.com)
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2013 19:24:06 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR wheel bolt pattern
In-Reply-To: <020701ce03a4$b7d5b900$27812b00$@com>
References: <1cfae.64dc40bb.3e425b77@cs.com>
	<020701ce03a4$b7d5b900$27812b00$@com>
Message-ID: <597fa4903fa16692c0f9555cd71bca9c.squirrel@email.accountsupport.com>

I have lost the list of cars that the wheels share the Triumph 4 on 4 1/2
bolt pattern. Does anyone have that list handy? I remember 6 cylinder Ford
Mustang on that list.

From greg at gelhar.com  Tue Feb  5 17:35:03 2013
From: greg at gelhar.com (greg at gelhar.com)
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2013 19:35:03 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3A Battery hold down
In-Reply-To: <020701ce03a4$b7d5b900$27812b00$@com>
References: <1cfae.64dc40bb.3e425b77@cs.com>
	<020701ce03a4$b7d5b900$27812b00$@com>
Message-ID: <43fcb865f9289362371d39407e36e896.squirrel@email.accountsupport.com>

Does anyone have access to their TR3A? I need the length and hole spacing
of the bar used to hold down the battery. I wouldn't mind getting multiple
replies. I'll use the most common dimensions.

From dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Feb  5 17:51:17 2013
From: dave1massey at cs.com (Dave Massey)
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2013 19:51:17 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] TR wheel bolt pattern
In-Reply-To: <597fa4903fa16692c0f9555cd71bca9c.squirrel@email.accountsupport.com>
References: <1cfae.64dc40bb.3e425b77@cs.com>
	<020701ce03a4$b7d5b900$27812b00$@com>
	<597fa4903fa16692c0f9555cd71bca9c.squirrel@email.accountsupport.com>
Message-ID: <8CFD21B34E4415B-860-25ED1@webmail-m182.sysops.aol.com>

Does this look familiar?
Wheel bolt circles:
The TR's (all of 'em....(except TR7/8)) use the same bolt pattern (4 on
4-1/2)
as the following cars:
1989-85 CHEVROLET - Sprint
1996-92 EAGLE - Summit Wagon
1993-84 Summit
1994-89 FORD - Festiva
1996-89 GEO - Metro, Sprint
2000-92 HONDA - Prelude (15")
2000-90 Accord
1999-91 HYUNDAI - Elantra, Lantra
1999-90 Accent, Excel, Pony
1999-89 Sonata
1995-90 Scoupe
1989-81 MAZDA - 323, GLC
1987-85 626, MX-6
1998-92 MITSUBISHI - Expo, Expo LRV, Vista Wagon
1999-84 Galant
1993-84 Mirage
1991-80 Tredia
1999-93 NISSAN - Altima
1995-82 Stanza
1991-84 Maxima
1990-78 B310, Pulsar
1986-82 Sentra, Sunny
1999-84 PLYMOUTH - Colt Vista
1993-84 Colt
1985-79 Arrow, Champ
1999-89 SUZUKI - Swift
1991-83 SAAB - 900
1991-80 TOYOTA - Cressida
1985-80 Celica (14")
1982-79 Tercel(4WD)
        Acura - Legend '86-'89
        Buick - Special '61-'63
        Chevrolet
            Corvair all 4-bolt
            Chevy II  all 4-bolt
            Sprint '85-'87
            Nova ('61-'70)
        Datsun/Nissan - most models to '89
        Dodge Colt '79-'88
        Dodge Colt (early)
        Ford
            Mustang all '65-'68 4-bolt
            Falcon, Maverick, Granada all 4-bolt
        Mazda - 626, RX7 '83-'87  ????
        MGA, MGB, MGC
        Olds - F-85 '61-'63
        Plymouth - Arrow, Sapporo '79-'88
        SAAB all      ???
        SAAB - 900 to '87
        Toyota - most exc. MR2 and P.U. to '89






Dave Massey






-----Original Message-----
From: greg <greg at gelhar.com>
To: triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Feb 5, 2013 6:42 pm
Subject: [TR] TR wheel bolt pattern


I have lost the list of cars that the wheels share the Triumph 4 on 4 1/2
bolt pattern. Does anyone have that list handy? I remember 6 cylinder Ford
Mustang on that list.

From bobannand1 at eastlink.ca  Tue Feb  5 18:25:08 2013
From: bobannand1 at eastlink.ca (Bob Annand)
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2013 01:25:08 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR3A Battery hold down
In-Reply-To: <43fcb865f9289362371d39407e36e896.squirrel@email.accountsupport.com>
References: <1cfae.64dc40bb.3e425b77@cs.com>
	<020701ce03a4$b7d5b900$27812b00$@com>
	<43fcb865f9289362371d39407e36e896.squirrel@email.accountsupport.com>
Message-ID: <1255340347-1360113909-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-3138730-@b26.c20.bise6.blackberry>

14" long
13.5" centre of holes

Bob TS57799L

Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyi sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le riseau de Bell.

-----Original Message-----
From: greg at gelhar.com
Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 05 Feb 2013 19:35:03 
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR3A Battery hold down

Does anyone have access to their TR3A? I need the length and hole spacing
of the bar used to hold down the battery. I wouldn't mind getting multiple
replies. I'll use the most common dimensions.

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From jdemuth at ties2.net  Wed Feb  6 08:25:26 2013
From: jdemuth at ties2.net (Joe DeMuth)
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2013 09:25:26 -0600
Subject: [TR] Annoying seat belt buzzer
Message-ID: <386DA52F-C4A4-4D38-9F53-56F2489CDDB9@ties2.net>


From tedtsimx at bright.net  Wed Feb  6 09:38:21 2013
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Wed, 06 Feb 2013 11:38:21 -0500
Subject: [TR] Chicago British car swap meet
Message-ID: <511286FD.9050102@bright.net>

Hello List(s). The Chicago swap meet is just around the corner - Feb. 
24. This is a good event. If you haven't been to it, it is worth 
attending.  Details can be found at www.britishcarswap.info. If you are 
a first time attendee, go early. The show hours are supposedly until 3 
pm but you will not find anyone there much after 1. We will be in our 
usual spaces in building 2.  If you want me to bring anything, please 
let me know.  (free freight is good). Thanks, Ted

-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Wed Feb  6 09:40:05 2013
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2013 11:40:05 -0500
Subject: [TR] Annoying seat belt buzzer
In-Reply-To: <386DA52F-C4A4-4D38-9F53-56F2489CDDB9@ties2.net>
References: <386DA52F-C4A4-4D38-9F53-56F2489CDDB9@ties2.net>
Message-ID: <CANhzkeOFk9kJ1fn6vnwowmdEKZbXik5uvVnd7UbvJY6cQPoZEw@mail.gmail.com>

Almost as annoying as messages with no content.....
On Feb 6, 2013 10:30 AM, "Joe DeMuth" <jdemuth at ties2.net> wrote:

>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ccsimonsen at gmail.com

From jdemuth at ties2.net  Wed Feb  6 10:31:50 2013
From: jdemuth at ties2.net (Joe DeMuth)
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2013 11:31:50 -0600
Subject: [TR] Annoying buzzer, plain text this time
Message-ID: <407F96A4-694E-4DC2-9048-38A591E28A01@ties2.net>


From skip47 at gbis.com  Wed Feb  6 11:47:34 2013
From: skip47 at gbis.com (Skip Gurnee)
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2013 10:47:34 -0800
Subject: [TR] aluminum radiators
In-Reply-To: <019201ce0314$b0aa8ec0$11ffac40$@uprichard.net>
References: <019201ce0314$b0aa8ec0$11ffac40$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <C40A6D19FEF94337A8828E51A292FD2A@ownerPC>

Andrew Uprichard wrote-
"I see aluminum radiators being advertised on eBay for not much more than 
the
cost of recoring my old one.  Does anyone have experience with these
radiators?"

I bought an aluminum radiator (from Griffin Radiator in Piedmont SC) for the 
TVR.  It was expensive, and it works better than stock.  I'd say you'd take 
a big chance buying something advertised as aluminum for near the same price 
as a recore.  Aluminum, by the way, doesn't transfer heat as well as copper, 
so unless you go bigger/thicker, you save nothing but a little weight.

Skip Gurnee
64TR4
66TR4A
67 Lotus Cortina
70TVR

From jagmog at hotmail.com  Wed Feb  6 12:09:11 2013
From: jagmog at hotmail.com (Jonas Payne)
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2013 11:09:11 -0800
Subject: [TR] aluminum radiators
In-Reply-To: <C40A6D19FEF94337A8828E51A292FD2A@ownerPC>
References: <019201ce0314$b0aa8ec0$11ffac40$@uprichard.net>
	<C40A6D19FEF94337A8828E51A292FD2A@ownerPC>
Message-ID: <BAY173-DS78175E19C796FAD7F91DDC6070@phx.gbl>

Guy in our club just got one for his AH sprite - neat piece of work.  Can't
beat the price.

Jonas Payne
PBR Consulting
702-882-6711


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Skip Gurnee
Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2013 10:48 AM
To: Andrew Uprichard; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] aluminum radiators

Andrew Uprichard wrote-
"I see aluminum radiators being advertised on eBay for not much more than
the cost of recoring my old one.  Does anyone have experience with these
radiators?"

I bought an aluminum radiator (from Griffin Radiator in Piedmont SC) for the
TVR.  It was expensive, and it works better than stock.  I'd say you'd take
a big chance buying something advertised as aluminum for near the same price
as a recore.  Aluminum, by the way, doesn't transfer heat as well as copper,
so unless you go bigger/thicker, you save nothing but a little weight.

Skip Gurnee
64TR4
66TR4A
67 Lotus Cortina
70TVR

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From pethier at comcast.net  Wed Feb  6 12:10:50 2013
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2013 19:10:50 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Annoying buzzer, plain text this time
In-Reply-To: <407F96A4-694E-4DC2-9048-38A591E28A01@ties2.net>
Message-ID: <1607251373.316934.1360177850131.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

More like NO text this time...

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier at comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

----- Original Message -----
> From: "Joe DeMuth" <jdemuth at ties2.net>
> To: "Triumphs at autox.team.net" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, February 6, 2013 11:31:50 AM
> Subject: [TR] Annoying buzzer, plain text this time
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Wed Feb  6 12:39:43 2013
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Wed, 06 Feb 2013 12:39:43 -0700
Subject: [TR] Annoying seat belt buzzer
In-Reply-To: <386DA52F-C4A4-4D38-9F53-56F2489CDDB9@ties2.net>
References: <386DA52F-C4A4-4D38-9F53-56F2489CDDB9@ties2.net>
Message-ID: <5112B17F.202@gmail.com>

On 2/6/13 8:25 AM, Joe DeMuth wrote:

I wouldn't have anything to say about seat belt buzzers either. Never 
heard of them.

TeriAnn

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Wed Feb  6 12:46:37 2013
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Wed, 06 Feb 2013 12:46:37 -0700
Subject: [TR] aluminum radiators
In-Reply-To: <C40A6D19FEF94337A8828E51A292FD2A@ownerPC>
References: <019201ce0314$b0aa8ec0$11ffac40$@uprichard.net>
	<C40A6D19FEF94337A8828E51A292FD2A@ownerPC>
Message-ID: <5112B31D.80600@gmail.com>

On 2/6/13 11:47 AM, Skip Gurnee wrote:
>  Aluminum, by the way, doesn't transfer heat as well as copper, so 
> unless you go bigger/thicker, you save nothing but a little weight.
No but it does transfer heat better than brass.  Maybe one should be 
looking for a sliver radiator.

I got my aluminum radiator about 2-1/2 years ago off ebay and it does 
help my 3 stay cooler in hot weather.

TeriAnn

From rjwilson1250 at gmail.com  Wed Feb  6 13:33:58 2013
From: rjwilson1250 at gmail.com (Roger Wilson)
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2013 12:33:58 -0800
Subject: [TR] aluminum radiators
In-Reply-To: <5112B31D.80600@gmail.com>
References: <019201ce0314$b0aa8ec0$11ffac40$@uprichard.net>
	<C40A6D19FEF94337A8828E51A292FD2A@ownerPC> <5112B31D.80600@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <003c01ce04a9$4b79a310$e26ce930$@com>

Replace a radiator with a crank hole in my TR3 with an aluminum one w/o the
hole about 2 years ago. I think it stays cooler in the summer, especially in
traffic, probably more due to better flow w/o the crank hole.

Roger

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TeriAnn J. Wakeman
Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2013 11:47 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] aluminum radiators

On 2/6/13 11:47 AM, Skip Gurnee wrote:
>  Aluminum, by the way, doesn't transfer heat as well as copper, so 
> unless you go bigger/thicker, you save nothing but a little weight.
No but it does transfer heat better than brass.  Maybe one should be looking
for a sliver radiator.

I got my aluminum radiator about 2-1/2 years ago off ebay and it does help
my 3 stay cooler in hot weather.

TeriAnn

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Wed Feb  6 13:47:30 2013
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2013 15:47:30 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] aluminum radiators
Message-ID: <7a71.c8f0328.3e441b62@aol.com>

I'm changing the topic a bit here, but I had my original radiator re-cored  
with a thicker core and no crank hole, only because I fitted a 
gear-reduction  starter motor and thought the new starter would be reliable enough that 
I would  not need the hole in the radiator. 
 
I always kept the cooling system well-flushed and full of fresh coolant.  
The engine now runs much cooler, but I have also incorporated a high-output  
water pump from TRF, which is a brilliant product in my opinion. 
 
My understanding is that aluminium radiators not only cool better but last  
much longer. I am delighted with the cooling aspects of my re-cored  
non-aluminium radiator and I am hoping that, with the mileages and care that our  
vehicles are subjected to, an aluminium one may not be necessary.
 
Tim TR3A TS22930LO

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Wed Feb  6 14:58:25 2013
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2013 16:58:25 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] Apologies
Message-ID: <a13a.7c4996e3.3e442c01@aol.com>

It happens to the best of us. In fact, it happened to me about a year ago.  
You're definitely not the worst "offender" (wrong word, in my opinion). If  
you've changed your password, it's probably sorted.
 
 
Tim
 
In a message dated 06/02/2013 4:55:17 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk writes:

My  sincere apologies to everyone who received a virus / work / Trojan  
Horse
from me over the last 24 hours. I've no idea where it came from but  
looking at
a few posts, it seems I may not be the only offender?
For my  part, I've run my
virus checker through my whole system and changed my  email password. 
Hopefully
that will sort things out?
Apologies once  again.

Jonmac

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
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From lee at automate-it.com  Wed Feb  6 15:16:54 2013
From: lee at automate-it.com (Lee Daniels)
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2013 16:16:54 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR wheel bolt pattern
In-Reply-To: <8CFD21B34E4415B-860-25ED1@webmail-m182.sysops.aol.com>
References: <1cfae.64dc40bb.3e425b77@cs.com>
	<020701ce03a4$b7d5b900$27812b00$@com>
	<597fa4903fa16692c0f9555cd71bca9c.squirrel@email.accountsupport.com>
	<8CFD21B34E4415B-860-25ED1@webmail-m182.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <5d365a092b28258d594bb80248930cc9.squirrel@www.automate-it.com>

> I have lost the list of cars that the wheels share the Triumph 4 on 4 1/2
> bolt pattern. Does anyone have that list handy? I remember 6 cylinder Ford
> Mustang on that list.

I have a moderately comprehensive list here:
  http://www.automate-it.com/lee/WheelApplicationChart.pdf

sorted by # bolts and bolt circle. It covers approx. 1960 - 1990.

Lee

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Wed Feb  6 16:13:09 2013
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Wed, 06 Feb 2013 16:13:09 -0700
Subject: [TR] aluminum radiators
In-Reply-To: <7a71.c8f0328.3e441b62@aol.com>
References: <7a71.c8f0328.3e441b62@aol.com>
Message-ID: <5112E385.1090102@gmail.com>

On 2/6/13 1:47 PM, KingsCreekTrees at aol.com wrote:
> My understanding is that aluminium radiators not only cool better but last
> much longer. I am delighted with the cooling aspects of my re-cored
> non-aluminium radiator and I am hoping that, with the mileages and care that our
> vehicles are subjected to, an aluminium one may not be necessary.
>
It helps aluminum radiators if you install a sacrificial anode, make 
sure you have a very good ground strap between the engine and frame that 
has clean tight connections and use the correct antifreeze.

Now that I have been reminded, I have a used brass TR3 radiator sitting 
in the garage for the past 3 years that was re-cored with a thicker core 
that is not partially blocked by a starter hole. It has spent 5 or 6 
years on the car before it was removed and put in the garage.  As I 
remember it was in good dirty condition.  Anyway it is looking for a new 
home. If anyone is interested please contact me. It is located in 
Flagstaff just off of I-40.

Any proceeds to go to my side curtain rebuilding fund.

TeriAnn

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Feb  6 17:24:13 2013
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2013 19:24:13 -0500
Subject: [TR] Apologies
In-Reply-To: <1359573522.71349.YahooMailNeo@web171905.mail.ir2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20130207002413.9T4EJ.10686.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>

---- John Macartney <flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk> wrote: 
> For my part, I've run my
> virus checker through my whole system and changed my email password. Hopefully
> that will sort things out?

No apology necessary, John.  We know you didn't do it.

But this does seem to be happening with distressing frequency, only to those who use Yahoo and att.net.  If you want to be certain it's sorted, you might want to consider using another email provider.  I don't necessarily recommend Google mail, but out of dozens of these messages I've seen, not one has come from a Gmail account.

On the other hand, now that they are getting a worldwide reputation for letting hackers in, perhaps Yahoo will finally do something about their security.

Randall

From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Wed Feb  6 17:37:11 2013
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2013 19:37:11 -0500
Subject: [TR] Apologies
In-Reply-To: <20130207002413.9T4EJ.10686.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>
References: <1359573522.71349.YahooMailNeo@web171905.mail.ir2.yahoo.com>
	<20130207002413.9T4EJ.10686.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>
Message-ID: <CAPK7CFDSzmk_uxN1r2d_YyEhfRRDYL_G5oRgJCq1+ZHVf1LG9A@mail.gmail.com>

Good point.  I *will* recommend Gmail to anyone thinking about it.  I've
been a user since the start (when one had to be invited to open an account)
and it's a superb email service.

Don



On Wednesday, February 6, 2013, Randall wrote:

> ---- John Macartney <flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk <javascript:;>> wrote:
> > For my part, I've run my
> > virus checker through my whole system and changed my email password.
> Hopefully
> > that will sort things out?
>
> No apology necessary, John.  We know you didn't do it.
>
> But this does seem to be happening with distressing frequency, only to
> those who use Yahoo and att.net.  If you want to be certain it's sorted,
> you might want to consider using another email provider.  I don't
> necessarily recommend Google mail, but out of dozens of these messages I've
> seen, not one has come from a Gmail account.
>
> On the other hand, now that they are getting a worldwide reputation for
> letting hackers in, perhaps Yahoo will finally do something about their
> security.
>
> Randall
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net <javascript:;> **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Thu Feb  7 15:55:11 2013
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2013 17:55:11 -0500
Subject: [TR] Triumph Carburetors
Message-ID: <033801ce0586$30087420$90195c60$@uprichard.net>

I know the TR3s used the SU H 6 carb and the TR250 and 6 used Strombergs,
but what did the TR4 and 4A use?  I am thinking of building a
faster-than-my-other TR3A, and think I can get more out of SU HS 6s than I
can out of SU H 6s.  I have Webers on my TR250 and don't want to go there.
All that dyno stuff...

 

What does the list think of H6 vs HS6?

 

Andrew Uprichard

From wbeech at flash.net  Thu Feb  7 16:08:11 2013
From: wbeech at flash.net (WBEECH)
Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2013 17:08:11 -0600
Subject: [TR] Triumph Carburetors
In-Reply-To: <033801ce0586$30087420$90195c60$@uprichard.net>
References: <033801ce0586$30087420$90195c60$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <1C568F31-9C65-4A72-809C-ED8AC1474881@flash.net>

Andrew,
>From what I have seen on the list TR4-A ran the progression from H6 to HS6 to
Z175.  I have always run H6 carbs so can't advise on the best for max profit
nance.

Sent from mobile Bill

On Feb 7, 2013, at 4:55 PM, "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard at uprichard.net>
wrote:

I know the TR3s used the SU H 6 carb and the TR250 and 6 used Strombergs,
but what did the TR4 and 4A use?  I am thinking of building a
faster-than-my-other TR3A, and think I can get more out of SU HS 6s than I
can out of SU H 6s.  I have Webers on my TR250 and don't want to go there.
All that dyno stuff...



What does the list think of H6 vs HS6?



Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From darrellw360 at mac.com  Thu Feb  7 16:26:26 2013
From: darrellw360 at mac.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Thu, 07 Feb 2013 15:26:26 -0800
Subject: [TR] Triumph Carburetors
In-Reply-To: <033801ce0586$30087420$90195c60$@uprichard.net>
References: <033801ce0586$30087420$90195c60$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <D26F0F0B-BF1E-4710-8D5D-C8DA23F6413A@mac.com>

On Feb 7, 2013, at 2:55 PM, Andrew Uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net>
wrote:

> I know the TR3s used the SU H 6 carb and the TR250 and 6 used Strombergs,
> but what did the TR4 and 4A use?  I am thinking of building a
> faster-than-my-other TR3A, and think I can get more out of SU HS 6s than I
> can out of SU H 6s.  I have Webers on my TR250 and don't want to go there.
> All that dyno stuff

I think a single HD8 will give you the best performance, Moss has a nice
adapter kit:

http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=100964

:-)

-Darrell

--
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Thu Feb  7 16:51:42 2013
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2013 18:51:42 -0500
Subject: [TR] Triumph Carburetors
In-Reply-To: <D26F0F0B-BF1E-4710-8D5D-C8DA23F6413A@mac.com>
References: <033801ce0586$30087420$90195c60$@uprichard.net>
	<D26F0F0B-BF1E-4710-8D5D-C8DA23F6413A@mac.com>
Message-ID: <033d01ce058e$152f7650$3f8e62f0$@uprichard.net>

Ok - we're on the cost versus performance curve here:  otherwise known as
the college tuition versus TR restoration, or supercharger versus staying
happily married............

-----Original Message-----
From: Darrell Walker [mailto:darrellw360 at mac.com] 
Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2013 6:26 PM
To: Andrew Uprichard
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph Carburetors


On Feb 7, 2013, at 2:55 PM, Andrew Uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net>
wrote:

> I know the TR3s used the SU H 6 carb and the TR250 and 6 used 
> Strombergs, but what did the TR4 and 4A use?  I am thinking of 
> building a faster-than-my-other TR3A, and think I can get more out of 
> SU HS 6s than I can out of SU H 6s.  I have Webers on my TR250 and don't
want to go there.
> All that dyno stuff.

I think a single HD8 will give you the best performance, Moss has a nice
adapter kit:

http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=100964

:-)

-Darrell

--
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Feb  7 16:56:58 2013
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2013 18:56:58 -0500
Subject: [TR] Triumph Carburetors
In-Reply-To: <033801ce0586$30087420$90195c60$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <20130207235658.ZAAEU.15427.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>

---- Andrew Uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net> wrote: 
> I know the TR3s used the SU H 6 carb and the TR250 and 6 used Strombergs,
> but what did the TR4 and 4A use?

Early TR4 used H6, same as TR3.  Later TR4 through middle TR4A used non-emissions ZS carbs, then late TR4A used SU HS6 carbs.

The HS6 supposedly flow the best on a flow bench, but I understand the difference is almost unnoticeable on a dyno.  The carbs don't appear to be the limiting factor until significant other modifications are made.

If you really want low restriction, go to port injection and lose the venturi (which has to present some restriction to function) altogether.

>  I am thinking of building a
> faster-than-my-other TR3A, and think I can get more out of SU HS 6s than I
> can out of SU H 6s.  I have Webers on my TR250 and don't want to go there.
> All that dyno stuff...

Unfortunately, those significant other modifications I mentioned are going to have the same effect : the stock needles won't be appropriate any more.  You're still going to need to do some development to get the mixture right; although you might be able to do most or even all of it on the road with a wide band O2 meter or perhaps a 4 channel EGT meter.  I haven't tried it myself yet, but I understand that "laptop dyno" works pretty good as well if you have a road to try things out on without attracting the attention of the local gendarmes.

Or perhaps your cousin Daryl could help.

Randall

From lherault at bu.edu  Fri Feb  8 08:23:10 2013
From: lherault at bu.edu (Ron L'Herault)
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2013 10:23:10 -0500
Subject: [TR] off topic question about 1993 Oldsmobile Sierra cutlass
Message-ID: <001c01ce0610$346068e0$9d213aa0$@edu>

Listmates, 

My daughter is driving the above-referenced vehicle.  It has less than 80K
on it but is quite rusty underneath.  Not unsafe as far as mechanics can
tell.  She's been told that the fuel pump died and the shop wants close to
$800 to fix it.   I guess its inside the fuel tank.   Would it be possible
to add an electric fuel pump somewhere else and leave the dead one in the
tank?   Which pump?  Where should it go?   The old tank runs well and she
drives it around the Boston area so who wants a nice car in the nasty city?
She can't afford one and neither can I anyhow. 

Thanks,

Ron L

From jodyfkerr at gmail.com  Fri Feb  8 08:43:35 2013
From: jodyfkerr at gmail.com (Jody Kerr)
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2013 08:43:35 -0700
Subject: [TR] off topic question about 1993 Oldsmobile Sierra  cutlass
In-Reply-To: <001c01ce0610$346068e0$9d213aa0$@edu>
References: <001c01ce0610$346068e0$9d213aa0$@edu>
Message-ID: <CAO2WPFbQjNwoJkTr4XwOV5-36CYY5ypqVD11XWvbHmx36DbFnA@mail.gmail.com>

I don't think you can install an inline pump. The pump in that car is
for FI and it draws up. An external inline would require gravity feed
from a surge tank of some sort.

The cost here is primarily in labor. It's not necessarily a tough job,
just an annoying one. :)

On Fri, Feb 8, 2013 at 8:23 AM, Ron L'Herault <lherault at bu.edu> wrote:
> Listmates,
>
> My daughter is driving the above-referenced vehicle.  It has less than 80K
> on it but is quite rusty underneath.  Not unsafe as far as mechanics can
> tell.  She's been told that the fuel pump died and the shop wants close to
> $800 to fix it.   I guess its inside the fuel tank.   Would it be possible
> to add an electric fuel pump somewhere else and leave the dead one in the
> tank?   Which pump?  Where should it go?   The old tank runs well and she
> drives it around the Boston area so who wants a nice car in the nasty city?
> She can't afford one and neither can I anyhow.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ron L
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jodyfkerr at gmail.com



-- 
http://www.theymightberacing.com/

1953 Studebaker Champion            1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479)
1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291)   1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854)
1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's)         1981 Triumph TR8
1970 MG MGB                               1980 Triumph TR7
"Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn
from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent
disinclination to do so."
--Douglas Adams

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Feb  8 11:00:57 2013
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2013 13:00:57 -0500
Subject: [TR] off topic question about 1993 Oldsmobile Sierra  cutlass
In-Reply-To: <001c01ce0610$346068e0$9d213aa0$@edu>
Message-ID: <20130208180057.KRQAD.18735.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>

I'd try a different shop.  I had the pump done on my 95 Buick and the charge including the pump was under $500 just a couple of years ago.  In my case though, they discovered that the tank was bad as well.  Had to scour the country to find one, and it wound up being another $500 with shipping.

Might be worth a try installing an in-line pump.  The in-tank pump is probably the same as mine, and it is a centrifugal design, so I would think that an external pump would be able to suck enough fuel through it and the pick up screen.  Be sure to get a pump that will deliver at least 40 psi, though.  Install close to the tank and down as low as possible, to make it easier for it to suck enough fuel.

I don't recall offhand if my Buick has a return line or not.  If your daughter's Olds doesn't have one, you'll probably have to add one.  The reason they put the pumps inside the tank is to keep them cool, but an external pump is cooled by the fuel flowing through it.  With nearly no fuel flowing at idle, the pump may heat the fuel enough to cause vapor lock.

Randall

From carlsereda at aol.com  Fri Feb  8 12:45:56 2013
From: carlsereda at aol.com (Carl Sereda)
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2013 14:45:56 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] non-TR fuel pump
Message-ID: <8CFD44C0BC0A68C-1630-14282@webmail-m141.sysops.aol.com>

Ron,
Only as a point of reference, 3 years ago I bought an aftermarket in-tank fuel
pump for $95 and brought it to a neighborhood car repair shop and they charged
$190 to install it - and the gas tank is buried under trunk area on my '88
TBird here in CA.
$285 total cost.

Good luck,
Carl
'63 TR4 since '74 (with original primer-levered fuel pump!)


My daughter is driving the above-referenced vehicle.  It has less than 80K
on it but is quite rusty underneath.  Not unsafe as far as mechanics can
tell.  She's been told that the fuel pump died and the shop wants close to
$800 to fix it.

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Sat Feb  9 11:34:50 2013
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2013 18:34:50 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR6 seat
Message-ID: <1181178781.1042360.1360434890267.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Anyone have a nice pair of TR6 seat tracks/mounting brackets they'd part with? Please contact me off list. 



Thanks, 



Ed Woods 

From spook01 at comcast.net  Sat Feb  9 15:48:28 2013
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Sat, 09 Feb 2013 16:48:28 -0600
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Tr4_starter?=
Message-ID: <mailman.61.1360450452.1934.triumphs@autox.team.net>

Hi all,
I got a reduction starter for a early TR4 when the old starter began to head south again...figured it was lighter and quieter.
It's pretty loud, and when the engine lights there's a pretty pronounced sound as the bendix disengages.
I had thought it was a case of an old ring gear, but the reduction engages from the front.
I also wondered if the starter gear was shimmed improperly causing it to not fully engage.

Any ideas?

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net
To: "triumph list" <triumphs at autox.team.net>, "Friends of" <Triumph	<fot at autox.team.net>, <>>
Subject: [TR] TR6 seat
Date: Sat, Feb 9, 2013 12:34


Anyone have a nice pair of TR6 seat tracks/mounting brackets they'd part with? Please contact me off list. 



Thanks, 



Ed Woods 

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net

From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk  Fri Feb  8 04:26:29 2013
From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2013 11:26:29 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] Calling Allan Reich - British Columbia Triumphs
Message-ID: <1360322789.30705.YahooMailNeo@web171902.mail.ir2.yahoo.com>

Sorry to 'bomb' list but if Allan Reich reads this, could he please contact
me? I've replied to an email he sent me but its bounced back and I used the
address from which he wrote to me.

Jonmac

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Sun Feb 10 08:32:05 2013
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2013 10:32:05 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 steering rack - steers and tracks nicely - but steering
 shaft can move in/out 1/4 inch
Message-ID: <CANhzkeN6aGTN46_htk7TcuWk1b60L3_zV1Rck+YAo0zb5vFcYA@mail.gmail.com>

Had the 63 TR4 out yesterday for a club Chilli run.   Was chilly for sure.
 Top down for the first half of the ride.  Got cloudy and went for comfort
for the second half.

Even at 70 mph the car tracked and rode nicely.

In getting the car ready, I decided to look a little more at the problem
with my horn button -  It kept falling out.   I fiddled with the
springs/keeper and snapped it in place. Done!  Not Done!

I sat in the seat and made Vroom Vroom noises and was steering back and
forth and the horn button came out again.  I hadn't noticed but when I
pull/push on the steering wheel it moves away from the dash 1/4 inch or
slightly more -- That movement is enough to push the horn button out.

So - Steering wheel is tightly attached.  the shaft is moving in and out of
the steering gearbox.   I guess the thrust washers are gone.  But the pics
in the book don't look like they are that thick.

Has anyone had a similar situation that they were able to effect
satisfactory repairs?  Or am I in the market for a rebuilt rack?  The lack
of a horn is enough safety reason to repair now vs later.

Thanks

Chris

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Sun Feb 10 10:33:34 2013
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2013 17:33:34 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR6 seat tracks
Message-ID: <748683528.1068245.1360517614393.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

List,

B 

Found 'em , thanks to these lists. Thanks for all the responses.

B 

Also found that new ones are available from TRF (and perhaps others) for
around $80 each.

B 

Ed Woods

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Sun Feb 10 17:05:43 2013
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2013 18:05:43 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] TR3A OD switch question
Message-ID: <1986857.1419869.1360541143613.JavaMail.root@vznit170132>

Finally getting around to putting in the OD switch. I must have 20-25 pictures with the switch visible but none that show whether the 'script' faces the driver or the outside.  Did the normal search of the internet and found images of both and references to both (as well as the question of whether it is up off or on.  
 
The toggle location is on the opposite half of the switch which means that if the script is facing inward, the toggle is on the outer half.
Is it just a matter of personal taste?
 
Thanks

Carl
1961 TR3A - TS81802LO
mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a
Tampa, Florida

From greg at gelhar.com  Sun Feb 10 19:21:27 2013
From: greg at gelhar.com (greg at gelhar.com)
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2013 21:21:27 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3A OD switch question
In-Reply-To: <1986857.1419869.1360541143613.JavaMail.root@vznit170132>
References: <1986857.1419869.1360541143613.JavaMail.root@vznit170132>
Message-ID: <6947fe46536c3c45d9379fbfd00e3ca9.squirrel@email.accountsupport.com>

It would make sense to me that the driver be able to read the script. The
switch has three teminals inside and can be wired for "ON" in the down
position for either mounting, but the dash has a "D" shaped hole with a
flat on the bottom that might make the decision for you.

Greg G.
Osseo, MN



> Finally getting around to putting in the OD switch. I must have 20-25
> pictures with the switch visible but none that show whether the 'script'
> faces the driver or the outside.  Did the normal search of the internet
> and found images of both and references to both (as well as the question
> of whether it is up off or on.
>
> The toggle location is on the opposite half of the switch which means that
> if the script is facing inward, the toggle is on the outer half.
> Is it just a matter of personal taste?
>
> Thanks
>
> Carl
> 1961 TR3A - TS81802LO
> mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a
> Tampa, Florida
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/greg at gelhar.com

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Feb 10 21:19:57 2013
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2013 20:19:57 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3A OD switch question
In-Reply-To: <1986857.1419869.1360541143613.JavaMail.root@vznit170132>
Message-ID: <2E.14.22260.76178115@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

IMO there is enough confusion over this topic that no one can say with
certainty what is "correct".  So might as well suit yourself.

Just to illustrate the confusion, Piggott clearly shows a switch installed
in a RHD car, with the lettering on the right and hence the toggle on the
inboard side.  The caption mentions that the switch is in the "correct
position", but doesn't comment about orientation.  However, the photo on
page 8 of "Practical Hints" shows the toggle on the outboard side! (on a RHD
car of course).

Personally, I prefer the toggle on the inboard side as it puts the lever
just slightly closer to my fingers; so I don't have to move my hand as far
to flip the switch while driving.

I think there is no question that down was on, originally.  But TS39781LO
had it reversed when it came to me, so I kept that arrangement.

Even though the original hole in the dash is D-shaped, you can achieve all 4
configurations by removing the 3 screws from the body of the switch and
assembling appropriately.  The mounting shaft will engage with the case in
either orientation, and the wires can be moved to get "on" in either
position.

-- Randall 

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Mon Feb 11 06:33:20 2013
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl-TR)
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2013 08:33:20 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3A OD switch question
In-Reply-To: <2E.14.22260.76178115@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
References: <1986857.1419869.1360541143613.JavaMail.root@vznit170132>
	<2E.14.22260.76178115@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <025801ce085c$5c175710$14460530$@verizon.net>

My panel hole is round so it can be mounted sideways if wanted....  (not).

I 'played' with how it felt last night.  I decided that it felt more natural
for the switch to be on the inboard half which means the lettering is facing
out.    I haven't completed the wiring connections but based on Randall's
comments below it can flip either way.   Up=on is normal convention in the
states so I will go that route - no need confusing this old brain any more
than it already is....  


Thanks 
Carl
1961 TR3A - TS81802LO
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 
"Sitting in the car - steering wheel in hand - getting so close I can taste
it."
Tampa, Florida



-----Original Message-----
From: Randall [mailto:TR3driver at ca.rr.com] 
Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2013 11:20 PM
To: 'Carl TR'; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] TR3A OD switch question

IMO there is enough confusion over this topic that no one can say with
certainty what is "correct".  So might as well suit yourself.

Just to illustrate the confusion, Piggott clearly shows a switch installed
in a RHD car, with the lettering on the right and hence the toggle on the
inboard side.  The caption mentions that the switch is in the "correct
position", but doesn't comment about orientation.  However, the photo on
page 8 of "Practical Hints" shows the toggle on the outboard side! (on a RHD
car of course).

Personally, I prefer the toggle on the inboard side as it puts the lever
just slightly closer to my fingers; so I don't have to move my hand as far
to flip the switch while driving.

I think there is no question that down was on, originally.  But TS39781LO
had it reversed when it came to me, so I kept that arrangement.

Even though the original hole in the dash is D-shaped, you can achieve all 4
configurations by removing the 3 screws from the body of the switch and
assembling appropriately.  The mounting shaft will engage with the case in
either orientation, and the wires can be moved to get "on" in either
position.

-- Randall 

From allenhess at mgcarclub.com  Mon Feb 11 16:11:26 2013
From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess)
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2013 18:11:26 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 steering rack - steers and tracks nicely - but
 steering shaft can move in/out 1/4 inch
In-Reply-To: <mailman.14.1360522804.19268.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.14.1360522804.19268.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <6D00562B-4082-4894-8659-2557DA2FADDC@mgcarclub.com>

I don't think it is the thrust washers or the rack. There are four  
splined joints between the wheel and the rack (two for each rubber u- 
joint). This is what I found, also on a '63. For whatever reason,  
these splines wear and try as you might, you cannot tighten the bolt  
to clamp the shaft. It will be "good enough" because the bolt passes  
through a groove in the shaft and the joints won't come apart, but it  
will be just loose enough to push and pull the steering wheel about a  
1/4 inch. I got another joint from a friend that was a little bit  
better. I don't know what is available new.

Allen

On Feb 10, 2013, at 2:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

>  I hadn't noticed but when I
> pull/push on the steering wheel it moves away from the dash 1/4 inch  
> or
> slightly more -- That movement is enough to push the horn button out.
>
> So - Steering wheel is tightly attached.  the shaft is moving in and  
> out of
> the steering gearbox.   I guess the thrust washers are gone.  But  
> the pics
> in the book don't look like they are that thick.
>
> Has anyone had a similar situation that they were able to effect
> satisfactory repairs?  Or am I in the market for a rebuilt rack?   
> The lack
> of a horn is enough safety reason to repair now vs later.

From mark at bradakis.com  Mon Feb 11 18:57:20 2013
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2013 18:57:20 -0700
Subject: [TR] Team.Net notes
Message-ID: <5119A180.5050709@bradakis.com>

One thing I have done to counteract the recent flurry of hijacked email 
addresses
sending bad stuff through the the list is change the list settings for 
number of
allowed recipients.  Most of them include at least half a dozen or so 
addresses,
maybe more, in each message as they go through the victim's address list.

I've lowered the limit to 3.  While this will stop a fair amount of the 
bad stuff
from getting sent to the lists, it will also delay some legitimate messages.
If folks send off nested replies with many recipients their mail will be 
held,
waiting for me to approve it and send it on.  I'll work on being more 
diligent
about going through the pending admin requests [ 7,438 at the moment ]
to separate the wheat from the chaff.

And an advance notice - the annual fund drive will be coming up in a 
month or so,
I will try and get all the forum and FTP issues resolved before asking 
for contributions.
Never ending chores - I think I'll ask the man in charge for a raise!

mjb.

From mark at bradakis.com  Mon Feb 11 19:05:51 2013
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2013 19:05:51 -0700
Subject: [TR] Another note: digests
Message-ID: <5119A37F.5080909@bradakis.com>

I've had a couple of test addresses subscribed to this list, digest 
mode, for a while.

No evidence of problems.  No dropped issues, formatting the same as it has
always been.  So as far as I can tell there have been no changes on this 
end.

mjb.

From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk  Mon Feb 11 07:03:34 2013
From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2013 14:03:34 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] TR3A OD switch question
In-Reply-To: <025801ce085c$5c175710$14460530$@verizon.net>
References: <1986857.1419869.1360541143613.JavaMail.root@vznit170132>
	<2E.14.22260.76178115@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
	<025801ce085c$5c175710$14460530$@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <1360591414.81550.YahooMailNeo@web171905.mail.ir2.yahoo.com>

Sometimes the most obscure of queries can be answered with absolute clarity.
Referring to right and left hand steer sidescreen TR's the overdrive switch
always had the lettering on the 'road' side of the switch. Additionally, the
switch was always moved up to engage (as in changing 'up' a gear). The switch
also was moved 'up' to engage overdrive on Vanguard, Ensign, and Standard 10
models.
It was only with the introduction of 2000 saloon, TR4 and
Herald/Vitesse, that the overdrive stalk was steering nacelle mounted and the
switched engagement was 'down' to engage o/d. This obviously continued to
later variants whether the o/d switch moved to the gear lever.

Jonmac
 
     
________________________________

From: Carl-TR <cfmtr3a at verizon.net>
To:
'Randall' <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>; triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Monday, 11
February 2013, 13:33
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A OD switch question


>My panel
hole is round so it can be mounted sideways if wanted....  (not).
>
>I
'played' with how it felt last night.  I decided that it felt more natural
>for the switch to be on the inboard half which means the lettering is facing
>out.    I haven't completed the wiring connections but based on Randall's
>comments below it can flip either way.   Up=on is normal convention in the
>states so I will go that route - no need confusing this old brain any more
>than it already is....  
>
>
>Thanks 
>Carl
>1961 TR3A - TS81802LO
>http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 
>"Sitting in the car - steering wheel in
hand - getting so close I can taste
>it."
>Tampa, Florida
>
>
>
>-----Original
Message-----
>From: Randall [mailto:TR3driver at ca.rr.com] 
>Sent: Sunday,
February 10, 2013 11:20 PM
>To: 'Carl TR'; triumphs at autox.team.net
>Subject:
RE: [TR] TR3A OD switch question
>
>IMO there is enough confusion over this
topic that no one can say with
>certainty what is "correct".  So might as well
suit yourself.
>
>Just to illustrate the confusion, Piggott clearly shows a
switch installed
>in a RHD car, with the lettering on the right and hence the
toggle on the
>inboard side.  The caption mentions that the switch is in the
"correct
>position", but doesn't comment about orientation.  However, the
photo on
>page 8 of "Practical Hints" shows the toggle on the outboard side!
(on a RHD
>car of course).
>
>Personally, I prefer the toggle on the inboard
side as it puts the lever
>just slightly closer to my fingers; so I don't have
to move my hand as far
>to flip the switch while driving.
>
>I think there is
no question that down was on, originally.  But TS39781LO
>had it reversed when
it came to me, so I kept that arrangement.
>
>Even though the original hole in
the dash is D-shaped, you can achieve all 4
>configurations by removing the 3
screws from the body of the switch and
>assembling appropriately.  The
mounting shaft will engage with the case in
>either orientation, and the wires
can be moved to get "on" in either
>position.
>
>-- Randall 
>
>**
triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Mon Feb  4 18:19:55 2013
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2013 17:19:55 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] wire wheels fit
Message-ID: <1360027195.18012.YahooMailNeo@web120606.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

wondering if there is a way to measure "play" in used wire wheel adaptors when
attached to new wire wheels?  I have some used adaptors and would like to use
them on new wheels but am aware of the danger of doing this.  I'm just
wondering if a person could mount them and then test the "play" and if that
would be a valid test?

Has anyone "been there done that"?

gary n.

From wbeech at flash.net  Mon Feb 11 20:36:40 2013
From: wbeech at flash.net (WBEECH)
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2013 21:36:40 -0600
Subject: [TR] wire wheels fit
In-Reply-To: <1360027195.18012.YahooMailNeo@web120606.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1360027195.18012.YahooMailNeo@web120606.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <DF922100-F6F8-49AA-850E-2AD4B394AC32@flash.net>

No play at all.  If an adaptor is used to the point where the splines are worn
down and allow play, I would toss them on the scrap pile.  Not aware of any
process to rebuild one.

Sent from mobile Bill

On Feb 4, 2013, at 7:19 PM, Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg at yahoo.com> wrote:

wondering if there is a way to measure "play" in used wire wheel adaptors
when
attached to new wire wheels?  I have some used adaptors and would like to use
them on new wheels but am aware of the danger of doing this.  I'm just
wondering if a person could mount them and then test the "play" and if that
would be a valid test?

Has anyone "been there done that"?

gary n.

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From pethier at comcast.net  Mon Feb 11 20:48:31 2013
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2013 03:48:31 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] wire wheels fit
In-Reply-To: <1360027195.18012.YahooMailNeo@web120606.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <992095644.403394.1360640911226.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

If you buy new wheels, buy new splines.  You will save money in the long run.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier at comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

----- Original Message -----
> From: "Gary Nafziger" <nafzigerg at yahoo.com>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Monday, February 4, 2013 7:19:55 PM
> Subject: [TR] wire wheels fit
> wondering if there is a way to measure "play" in used wire wheel
> adaptors when
> attached to new wire wheels? I have some used adaptors and would like
> to use
> them on new wheels but am aware of the danger of doing this. I'm just
> wondering if a person could mount them and then test the "play" and if
> that
> would be a valid test?
> 
> Has anyone "been there done that"?
> 
> gary n.
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Mon Feb 11 21:54:25 2013
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2013 21:54:25 -0700
Subject: [TR] wire wheels fit
In-Reply-To: <1360027195.18012.YahooMailNeo@web120606.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1360027195.18012.YahooMailNeo@web120606.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <5119CB01.4070807@gmail.com>

On 2/4/13 6:19 PM, Gary Nafziger wrote:
> wondering if there is a way to measure "play" in used wire wheel adaptors when
> attached to new wire wheels?  I have some used adaptors and would like to use
> them on new wheels but am aware of the danger of doing this.  I'm just
> wondering if a person could mount them and then test the "play" and if that
> would be a valid test?
>
> Has anyone "been there done that"?
>
First there should be absolutely no play.

Second, the condition of a hub spline can be checked visually.  The 
individual splines on a like new hub do not come to a point. There is a 
flat area at the top. If the splines come to a sharp point they are 
badly worn.  It the point is tilted a little to one side they are 
desperately worn. Compare the part of the spline that the wheel does not 
ride against with the part that engages the wheel and look for wear.

TeriAnn

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Feb 11 22:40:31 2013
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2013 21:40:31 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3A OD switch question
In-Reply-To: <1360591414.81550.YahooMailNeo@web171905.mail.ir2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <38.D0.26261.7C5D9115@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> Referring to right and left hand steer sidescreen TR's the 
> overdrive switch always had the lettering on the 'road' side 
> of the switch.

I'm sure you're right; but how do you explain the photograph in Practical
Hints?

-- Randall 

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Feb 11 23:01:32 2013
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2013 22:01:32 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR4 steering rack - steers and tracks nicely - but
 steering shaft can move in/out 1/4 inch
In-Reply-To: <6D00562B-4082-4894-8659-2557DA2FADDC@mgcarclub.com>
Message-ID: <DE.03.25887.4BAD9115@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> For whatever reason,  
> these splines wear and try as you might, you cannot tighten the bolt  
> to clamp the shaft.

Hmm.  Time to steal a trick from "Zen and the Art of Motorcycle
Maintenance"?

-- Randall 

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Tue Feb 12 04:23:10 2013
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2013 06:23:10 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 steering rack - steers and tracks nicely - but
 steering shaft can move in/out 1/4 inch
In-Reply-To: <6D00562B-4082-4894-8659-2557DA2FADDC@mgcarclub.com>
References: <mailman.14.1360522804.19268.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<6D00562B-4082-4894-8659-2557DA2FADDC@mgcarclub.com>
Message-ID: <CANhzkeNmXbaJKOdCFxdza0N2i9v6TUkOjg8rs-V4YOZaXdfvXQ@mail.gmail.com>

I just rechecked.  The shaft is definitely moving in and out of the the
steering rack.  The joints are solid.

Thanks for the response, just the same - someone in the future with a
similar problem will find your answer in the archives.

All the best,  Chris

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Feb 12 06:26:26 2013
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2013 08:26:26 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] Team.Net notes
Message-ID: <299ff.1f4c2d66.3e4b9d02@cs.com>

Or... we could delete all other recipients leaving the list as the sole 
recipient, as I do.  A habit I picked up from when the listserve was not smart 
enough to delete duplicates.

Just my opinion.

Dave Massey

In a message dated 2/11/2013 7:58:01 PM Central Standard Time, 
mark at bradakis.com writes: 
> One thing I have done to counteract the recent flurry of hijacked email 
> addresses
> sending bad stuff through the the list is change the list settings for 
> number of
> allowed recipients.  Most of them include at least half a dozen or so 
> addresses,
> maybe more, in each message as they go through the victim's address list.
> 
> I've lowered the limit to 3.  While this will stop a fair amount of the 
> bad stuff
> from getting sent to the lists, it will also delay some legitimate 
> messages.
> If folks send off nested replies with many recipients their mail will be 
> held,
<snip>

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Tue Feb 12 08:53:39 2013
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2013 10:53:39 -0500
Subject: [TR] VTR.Org down?
Message-ID: <CANhzkeOsUswD3o2w-rakMG4hAjgW-ZfxvY7csKejwwVRJc3uBQ@mail.gmail.com>

Is anyone else having an issue accessing www.vtr.org?

My club site is hosted by VTR and it's down as well.

Thanks

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue Feb 12 09:12:23 2013
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob)
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2013 11:12:23 -0500
Subject: [TR] VTR.Org down?
In-Reply-To: <CANhzkeOsUswD3o2w-rakMG4hAjgW-ZfxvY7csKejwwVRJc3uBQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANhzkeOsUswD3o2w-rakMG4hAjgW-ZfxvY7csKejwwVRJc3uBQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <776CC8A34CED4159B7E8B49F027E958F@BobDell>

Can't get to it either.......

-----Original Message----- 
From: Chris Simo
Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2013 10:53 AM
To: list Triumph
Subject: [TR] VTR.Org down?

Is anyone else having an issue accessing www.vtr.org?

My club site is hosted by VTR and it's down as well.

Thanks

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From zoboherald at aol.com  Tue Feb 12 09:14:43 2013
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace)
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2013 11:14:43 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] VTR.Org down?
In-Reply-To: <CANhzkeOsUswD3o2w-rakMG4hAjgW-ZfxvY7csKejwwVRJc3uBQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANhzkeOsUswD3o2w-rakMG4hAjgW-ZfxvY7csKejwwVRJc3uBQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8CFD75333C7D613-C64-3DF5@webmail-d160.sysops.aol.com>

 Not working for me at the moment, either (said moment being 11:15 a.m., EST,
Tuesday 2/12/13).



--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us




-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen at gmail.com>
To: list Triumph <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Feb 12, 2013 11:00 am
Subject: [TR] VTR.Org down?


Is anyone else having an issue accessing www.vtr.org?mphs/zoboherald at aol.com

From lee at automate-it.com  Tue Feb 12 10:28:36 2013
From: lee at automate-it.com (Lee Daniels)
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2013 11:28:36 -0600
Subject: [TR] VTR.Org down?
In-Reply-To: <CANhzkeOsUswD3o2w-rakMG4hAjgW-ZfxvY7csKejwwVRJc3uBQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANhzkeOsUswD3o2w-rakMG4hAjgW-ZfxvY7csKejwwVRJc3uBQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <f5b794a20b4f404e6f5d00f3044a19a6.squirrel@www.automate-it.com>

Well it's not completely dead, the server does respond to a ping:
------------------------------------------------------------
Pinging vtr.org [69.174.114.172] with 32 bytes of data:
Reply from 69.174.114.172: bytes=32 time=37ms TTL=54
Reply from 69.174.114.172: bytes=32 time=36ms TTL=54
Reply from 69.174.114.172: bytes=32 time=37ms TTL=54
Reply from 69.174.114.172: bytes=32 time=37ms TTL=54

Ping statistics for 69.174.114.172:
    Packets: Sent = 4, Received = 4, Lost = 0 (0% loss),
Approximate round trip times in milli-seconds:
    Minimum = 36ms, Maximum = 37ms, Average = 36ms
------------------------------------------------------------

Also, the domain name is paid up through Sep. 24, 2014. May be just a hiccup
in the http server on that machine. More info below:

Domain ID:D2520-LROR
Domain Name:VTR.ORG
Created On:25-Sep-1995 04:00:00 UTC
Last Updated On:16-Aug-2012 14:28:12 UTC
Expiration Date:24-Sep-2014 04:00:00 UTC
Sponsoring Registrar:GoDaddy.com, LLC (R91-LROR)
Registrant ID:CR37341030
Registrant Name:bob bownes
Registrant Organization:web9
Registrant Street1:8 ribbon candy lane
Registrant City:troy
Registrant State/Province:New York
Registrant Postal Code:12182
Registrant Country:US
Registrant Phone:+1.5182378573
Registrant Email:bownes at web9.com
Admin ID:CR37341032
Admin Name:bob bownes
Admin Organization:Seiri
Admin Street1:8 ribbon candy lane
Admin City:troy
Admin State/Province:New York
Admin Postal Code:12182
Admin Country:US
Admin Phone:+1.5182378611
Admin Email:bb261 at web9.com
Tech ID:CR37341031
Tech Name:Domain Registrar
Tech Organization:Register.Com
Tech Street1:575 8th Avenue
Tech Street2:11th Floor
Tech City:New York
Tech State/Province:New York
Tech Postal Code:10018
Tech Country:US
Tech Phone:+1.9027492701
Tech FAX:+1.9027495429
Tech FAX Ext.:
Tech Email:domain-registrar at register.com
Name Server:NS1.HALKOSPHERE.COM
Name Server:NS2.HALKOSPHERE.COM




> Is anyone else having an issue accessing www.vtr.org?
>
> My club site is hosted by VTR and it's down as well.
>
> Thanks

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Tue Feb 12 10:42:48 2013
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2013 11:42:48 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] Team.Net notes
Message-ID: <10551502.779363.1360690968297.JavaMail.root@vznit170136>

I agree.  Respond to the sender [ONLY] or to the list.   Preferably to the list unless it is off-topic.

 
 
Carl
1961 TR3A - TS81802LO
mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a
Tampa, Florida


On 02/12/13, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote:

Or... we could delete all other recipients leaving the list as the sole 
recipient, as I do. A habit I picked up from when the listserve was not smart 
enough to delete duplicates.

Just my opinion.

Dave Massey

From triumphstag at gmail.com  Tue Feb 12 14:03:17 2013
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2013 13:03:17 -0800
Subject: [TR] Wiper motor issues
Message-ID: <CANLCLaF7krU1K8UVnBHzYNMOKNhnWzeRnKC9an5Yi5YE8hudiQ@mail.gmail.com>

I have attempted to repair a wiper motor switch/ stalk  for a Mk2 Fed.
stag. The wiper motor appears to fit other Triumphs.

The only speed working is 2.
When switched off, the wipers do not park.


>From doing a quick Google search, to get two speeds, the windings are
tapped at different points in the motor, if this is the case; does anyone
know which color wire from the stalk drives speed one and which color wire
drives speed two?

Sujit

From tr3a58 at verizon.net  Tue Feb 12 14:42:29 2013
From: tr3a58 at verizon.net (Dean Tetterton)
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2013 16:42:29 -0500
Subject: [TR] Wiper motor issues
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaF7krU1K8UVnBHzYNMOKNhnWzeRnKC9an5Yi5YE8hudiQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaF7krU1K8UVnBHzYNMOKNhnWzeRnKC9an5Yi5YE8hudiQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <67A987FA-C63D-4525-86AB-8219096E78B2@verizon.net>

I just went thru this on a Stag. The wipers park with speed 1 so if that isn't
working,
no parking. In my case the plug that goes into the motor has a green wire in
the
lower left corner as you look at the plug. This should have 12 volts. on the
other side where the wires attach
to go to the motor, the wire was broken. You have to take out the 2 screws
that hold the parking
switch to the motor and turn it over to see it. The wires had hard insulation
on them and break
very easily at the connection. Be very careful when moving the parking switch.
They break
easily and none are available.

Good luck

Dean T.


On Feb 12, 2013, at 4:03 PM, Sujit Roy wrote:

> I have attempted to repair a wiper motor switch/ stalk  for a Mk2 Fed.
> stag. The wiper motor appears to fit other Triumphs.
>
> The only speed working is 2.
> When switched off, the wipers do not park.
>
>
> From doing a quick Google search, to get two speeds, the windings are
> tapped at different points in the motor, if this is the case; does anyone
> know which color wire from the stalk drives speed one and which color wire
> drives speed two?
>
> Sujit
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3a58 at verizon.net

From triumphstag at gmail.com  Tue Feb 12 16:26:39 2013
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2013 15:26:39 -0800
Subject: [TR] wire wheels fit
In-Reply-To: <5119CB01.4070807@gmail.com>
References: <1360027195.18012.YahooMailNeo@web120606.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<5119CB01.4070807@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANLCLaG7AwJDA5UUGiUg3hRpvqc8AzOusCa4LMQu8Zzu+JjfRA@mail.gmail.com>

I went through a similar exercise with my '71 Stag. In addition to the 4
wires + spare I have a handful of spare hubs and wheels they all show some
play, but I minimized them by swapping hubs and wheel combinations.

As much as I like my Stag with wire wheels, when they really show signs of
major wear, I'll for for something after market/ way cheaper.


Sujit



On Mon, Feb 11, 2013 at 8:54 PM, TeriAnn J. Wakeman <tjwakeman at gmail.com>wrote:

> On 2/4/13 6:19 PM, Gary Nafziger wrote:
>
>> wondering if there is a way to measure "play" in used wire wheel adaptors
>> when
>> attached to new wire wheels?  I have some used adaptors and would like to
>> use
>> them on new wheels but am aware of the danger of doing this.  I'm just
>> wondering if a person could mount them and then test the "play" and if
>> that
>> would be a valid test?
>>
>> Has anyone "been there done that"?
>>
>>  First there should be absolutely no play.
>
> Second, the condition of a hub spline can be checked visually.  The
> individual splines on a like new hub do not come to a point. There is a
> flat area at the top. If the splines come to a sharp point they are badly
> worn.  It the point is tilted a little to one side they are desperately
> worn. Compare the part of the spline that the wheel does not ride against
> with the part that engages the wheel and look for wear.
>
> TeriAnn
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/triumphs/triumphstag@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumphstag at gmail.com>
>



-- 
Sujit Roy, Realtor
Cupertino, CA
(408) 839-8359

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Feb 12 22:05:51 2013
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2013 21:05:51 -0800
Subject: [TR] Wiper motor issues
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaF7krU1K8UVnBHzYNMOKNhnWzeRnKC9an5Yi5YE8hudiQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <47.9A.22260.42F1B115@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> From doing a quick Google search, to get two speeds, the 
> windings are tapped at different points in the motor, if this 
> is the case; does anyone know which color wire from the stalk 
> drives speed one and which color wire drives speed two?

There were different designs used at different times.  I believe the Stag
uses a third brush rather than a tap on the field windings.  This should be
fairly close I think (except for the wiper delay module on Mk II Stag)
http://www.vtr.org/maintain/wiper-problem.shtml

-- Randall 

From darrellw360 at mac.com  Thu Feb 14 07:46:35 2013
From: darrellw360 at mac.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2013 06:46:35 -0800
Subject: [TR] Lucas smoke replacement kit
Message-ID: <77905A62-79ED-43FF-8755-395ACEDB459B@mac.com>

For your amusement today:

http://www3.telus.net/bc_triumph_registry/smoke.htm

-Darrell

-- 
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA

From ptegler at verizon.net  Tue Feb 12 14:27:06 2013
From: ptegler at verizon.net (ptegler)
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2013 16:27:06 -0500
Subject: [TR] VTR.Org down?
References: <CANhzkeOsUswD3o2w-rakMG4hAjgW-ZfxvY7csKejwwVRJc3uBQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<776CC8A34CED4159B7E8B49F027E958F@BobDell>
Message-ID: <9ECE5F04C4384B4BBE772C27652A6341@dragonlairii>

4:30 pm here in MD...site works just fine.

Paul Tegler
ptegler at verizon.net
www.teglerizer.com
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob" <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
To: "Chris Simo" <ccsimonsen at gmail.com>; "list Triumph" 
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2013 11:12 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] VTR.Org down?


> Can't get to it either.......
>
> -----Original Message----- 
> From: Chris Simo
> Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2013 10:53 AM
> To: list Triumph
> Subject: [TR] VTR.Org down?
>
> Is anyone else having an issue accessing www.vtr.org?
>
> My club site is hosted by VTR and it's down as well.
>
> Thanks
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net 

From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk  Thu Feb 14 08:01:58 2013
From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2013 15:01:58 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] Lucas smoke replacement kit
In-Reply-To: <77905A62-79ED-43FF-8755-395ACEDB459B@mac.com>
References: <77905A62-79ED-43FF-8755-395ACEDB459B@mac.com>
Message-ID: <1360854118.41770.YahooMailNeo@web171904.mail.ir2.yahoo.com>

Darrell's information release couldn't have come at a worse time - for me. I'm
just on the verge of launching my much-improved and thoroughly field tested
British Leyland External Engine Oil-Spray system.
 
Oh well, back to the
drawing board to see what additional features can be incorporated at little or
zero cost. Shouldn't grumble too much I suppose, as my patented choke lock
system (now in polished mahogany with a tooled Moroccan presentation case) is
certainly helping to bolster dwindling pension income :)

Jonmac
 
________________________________

From: Darrell Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com>
To: "triumphs at autox.team.net List" <triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Thursday,
14 February 2013, 14:46
Subject: [TR] Lucas smoke replacement kit


>For your
amusement today:
>
>http://www3.telus.net/bc_triumph_registry/smoke.htm
>
>-Darrell
>
>-- 
>Darrell Walker
>66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
>81 TR8
SATPZ458XBA406206
>Vancouver, WA, USA
>
>** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk

From trglory at verizon.net  Tue Feb 12 14:11:00 2013
From: trglory at verizon.net (Joseph Laurito)
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2013 16:11:00 -0500
Subject: [TR] VTR.Org down?
In-Reply-To: <f5b794a20b4f404e6f5d00f3044a19a6.squirrel@www.automate-it.com>
References: <CANhzkeOsUswD3o2w-rakMG4hAjgW-ZfxvY7csKejwwVRJc3uBQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<f5b794a20b4f404e6f5d00f3044a19a6.squirrel@www.automate-it.com>
Message-ID: <002301ce0965$767159d0$63540d70$@net>

Hi Lee;

I just got done talking to Inmotion Systems and it is back on like now.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Lee Daniels
Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2013 12:29 PM
To: Chris Simo
Cc: list Triumph
Subject: Re: [TR] VTR.Org down?

Well it's not completely dead, the server does respond to a ping:
------------------------------------------------------------
Pinging vtr.org [69.174.114.172] with 32 bytes of data:
Reply from 69.174.114.172: bytes=32 time=37ms TTL=54 Reply from
69.174.114.172: bytes=32 time=36ms TTL=54 Reply from 69.174.114.172:
bytes=32 time=37ms TTL=54 Reply from 69.174.114.172: bytes=32 time=37ms
TTL=54

Ping statistics for 69.174.114.172:
    Packets: Sent = 4, Received = 4, Lost = 0 (0% loss), Approximate round
trip times in milli-seconds:
    Minimum = 36ms, Maximum = 37ms, Average = 36ms
------------------------------------------------------------

Also, the domain name is paid up through Sep. 24, 2014. May be just a hiccup
in the http server on that machine. More info below:

Domain ID:D2520-LROR
Domain Name:VTR.ORG
Created On:25-Sep-1995 04:00:00 UTC
Last Updated On:16-Aug-2012 14:28:12 UTC Expiration Date:24-Sep-2014
04:00:00 UTC Sponsoring Registrar:GoDaddy.com, LLC (R91-LROR) Registrant
ID:CR37341030 Registrant Name:bob bownes Registrant Organization:web9
Registrant Street1:8 ribbon candy lane Registrant City:troy Registrant
State/Province:New York Registrant Postal Code:12182 Registrant Country:US
Registrant Phone:+1.5182378573 Registrant Email:bownes at web9.com Admin
ID:CR37341032 Admin Name:bob bownes Admin Organization:Seiri Admin Street1:8
ribbon candy lane Admin City:troy Admin State/Province:New York Admin Postal
Code:12182 Admin Country:US Admin Phone:+1.5182378611 Admin
Email:bb261 at web9.com Tech ID:CR37341031 Tech Name:Domain Registrar Tech
Organization:Register.Com Tech Street1:575 8th Avenue Tech Street2:11th
Floor Tech City:New York Tech State/Province:New York Tech Postal Code:10018
Tech Country:US Tech Phone:+1.9027492701 Tech FAX:+1.9027495429 Tech FAX
Ext.:
Tech Email:domain-registrar at register.com
Name Server:NS1.HALKOSPHERE.COM
Name Server:NS2.HALKOSPHERE.COM




> Is anyone else having an issue accessing www.vtr.org?
>
> My club site is hosted by VTR and it's down as well.
>
> Thanks

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trglory at verizon.net

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Feb 14 13:36:35 2013
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2013 15:36:35 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] Lucas smoke replacement kit
Message-ID: <1011e.6d35f91.3e4ea4d1@cs.com>

How about the random function ignition lockout?

In a message dated 2/14/2013 2:15:32 PM Central Standard Time, 
flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk writes: 
> Darrell's information release couldn't have come at a worse time - for 
> me. I'm
> just on the verge of launching my much-improved and thoroughly field 
> tested
> British Leyland External Engine Oil-Spray system.
> 
> Oh well, back to the
> drawing board to see what additional features can be incorporated at 
> little or
> zero cost. 

From jeremiah at curryclan.net  Thu Feb 14 14:23:08 2013
From: jeremiah at curryclan.net (Jeremiah@curryclan.net)
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2013 14:23:08 -0700
Subject: [TR] Team.Net notes
In-Reply-To: <10551502.779363.1360690968297.JavaMail.root@vznit170136>
References: <10551502.779363.1360690968297.JavaMail.root@vznit170136>
Message-ID: <CB2990A599D64225A47A06BD23AB96A1@Officedesktop>

One reason to reply to the list and the person you are specifically talking 
to is because some of the email clients flag emails where the person is 
specifically in the to list.

-----Original Message----- 
From: Carl TR
Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2013 10:42 AM
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Team.Net notes

I agree.  Respond to the sender [ONLY] or to the list.   Preferably to the 
list unless it is off-topic.



Carl
1961 TR3A - TS81802LO
mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a
Tampa, Florida


On 02/12/13, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote:

Or... we could delete all other recipients leaving the list as the sole
recipient, as I do. A habit I picked up from when the listserve was not 
smart
enough to delete duplicates.

Just my opinion.

Dave Massey

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jeremiah at curryclan.net 

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Thu Feb 14 16:44:49 2013
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2013 18:44:49 -0500
Subject: [TR] Lucas smoke replacement kit
In-Reply-To: <1360854118.41770.YahooMailNeo@web171904.mail.ir2.yahoo.com>
References: <77905A62-79ED-43FF-8755-395ACEDB459B@mac.com>
	<1360854118.41770.YahooMailNeo@web171904.mail.ir2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CANhzkeMtaPw-mTWjS46yW1Ni=1c2-=67fQy675y90wpXMXM5Ng@mail.gmail.com>

The original external oil spray system  is what kept my TR2 pretty much
rust free for all these years.  I can't wait to see the improved version!

On Thu, Feb 14, 2013 at 10:01 AM, John Macartney <
flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk> wrote:

> Darrell's information release couldn't have come at a worse time - for me.
> I'm
> just on the verge of launching my much-improved and thoroughly field tested
> British Leyland External Engine Oil-Spray system.
>
> Oh well, back to the
> drawing board to see what additional features can be incorporated at
> little or
> zero cost. Shouldn't grumble too much I suppose, as my patented choke lock
> system (now in polished mahogany with a tooled Moroccan presentation case)
> is
> certainly helping to bolster dwindling pension income :)
>
> Jonmac
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: Darrell Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com>
> To: "triumphs at autox.team.net List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday,
> 14 February 2013, 14:46
> Subject: [TR] Lucas smoke replacement kit
>
>
> >For your
> amusement today:
> >
> >http://www3.telus.net/bc_triumph_registry/smoke.htm
> >
> >-Darrell
> >
> >--
> >Darrell Walker
> >66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
> >81 TR8
> SATPZ458XBA406206
> >Vancouver, WA, USA
> >
> >** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> >
> >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >Unsubscribe/Manage:
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ccsimonsen at gmail.com

From dave at ranteer.com  Fri Feb 15 10:08:19 2013
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave at ranteer.com)
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2013 10:08:19 -0700
Subject: [TR] tr4 doors
Message-ID: <20130215100819.eacca00412c4e976446146f9b5e47255.5463ad5a6d.wbe@email06.secureserver.net>


From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Fri Feb 15 10:49:17 2013
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2013 09:49:17 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] tr4 doors
In-Reply-To: <20130215100819.eacca00412c4e976446146f9b5e47255.5463ad5a6d.wbe@email06.secureserver.net>
References: <20130215100819.eacca00412c4e976446146f9b5e47255.5463ad5a6d.wbe@email06.secureserver.net>
Message-ID: <1360950557.49913.YahooMailNeo@web120003.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

i believe they had 2


From: "dave at ranteer.com" <dave at ranteer.com>
To: "triumphs at autox.team.net List" <triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Friday, February 15, 2013 9:08 AM
Subject: [TR] tr4 doors



** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Fri Feb 15 11:27:54 2013
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2013 11:27:54 -0700
Subject: [TR] tr4 doors
In-Reply-To: <1360950557.49913.YahooMailNeo@web120003.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <20130215100819.eacca00412c4e976446146f9b5e47255.5463ad5a6d.wbe@email06.secureserver.net>
	<1360950557.49913.YahooMailNeo@web120003.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bFPZBBmfSyXJKsBYyGidfejYHX4U0vcfVoqsREDRRNoiw@mail.gmail.com>

I like both -- including listening to the Doors while driving the TR4.

On Fri, Feb 15, 2013 at 10:49 AM, Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com> wrote:

> i believe they had 2

From triumphstag at gmail.com  Fri Feb 15 12:04:39 2013
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2013 11:04:39 -0800
Subject: [TR] heli coiling aluminum cylinder head.
Message-ID: <CANLCLaEJSAR27e2UnRgyu_NPEtF2sjtWSwRiHpwmzYBv9LQbvA@mail.gmail.com>

Im planning to heli coil the threads on my inlet manifold on my Stag. To
make sure the drill is perpendicular to the surface of the head, I plan to
have someone make me a 1 inch thick block and drill a perpendicular hole in
it. I plan to use this as a guide.


My issue is how to I make sure the Recoil brand of tap I have goes in
perpendicular to the hole in the cylinder head?  Im not sure what a Heli
coil tap looks, like but the recoil brand does not have a long taper.

Should I make another 1 inch block with a hole, tap that first, and then
butt the 1 inch block up against the cylinder head and then tap the threads
in the head through the 1 inch block block? Is this part over kill?
Sujit

--
Sujit Roy, Realtor
Cupertino, CA
(408) 839-8359

From greg at gelhar.com  Fri Feb 15 13:11:45 2013
From: greg at gelhar.com (greg at gelhar.com)
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2013 15:11:45 -0500
Subject: [TR] heli coiling aluminum cylinder head.
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaEJSAR27e2UnRgyu_NPEtF2sjtWSwRiHpwmzYBv9LQbvA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaEJSAR27e2UnRgyu_NPEtF2sjtWSwRiHpwmzYBv9LQbvA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <28047b51339f3c69331ad599cefe4f0b.squirrel@email.accountsupport.com>

Why don't you simply drill two holes in your guide block? One to match the
drill size and one to match the tap diameter.

Greg G.
Osseo, MN




> Im planning to heli coil the threads on my inlet manifold on my Stag. To
> make sure the drill is perpendicular to the surface of the head, I plan to
> have someone make me a 1 inch thick block and drill a perpendicular hole
> in
> it. I plan to use this as a guide.
>
>
> My issue is how to I make sure the Recoil brand of tap I have goes in
> perpendicular to the hole in the cylinder head?  Im not sure what a Heli
> coil tap looks, like but the recoil brand does not have a long taper.
>
> Should I make another 1 inch block with a hole, tap that first, and then
> butt the 1 inch block up against the cylinder head and then tap the
> threads
> in the head through the 1 inch block block? Is this part over kill?
> Sujit
>
> --
> Sujit Roy, Realtor
> Cupertino, CA
> (408) 839-8359

From dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Feb 15 16:18:31 2013
From: dave1massey at cs.com (Dave Massey)
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2013 18:18:31 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] heli coiling aluminum cylinder head.
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaEJSAR27e2UnRgyu_NPEtF2sjtWSwRiHpwmzYBv9LQbvA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaEJSAR27e2UnRgyu_NPEtF2sjtWSwRiHpwmzYBv9LQbvA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8CFD9E9E7707CB9-16A8-1BE5D@webmail-d056.sysops.aol.com>

Same thing.  Have a hole that is sized just big enough for the tap.

BTW, a piece of square tubing works just as wall and is much cheaper.  I've
got one for 1/4 and for 10-32.  Any drill press with the table squared up will
do a fine job.





Dave Massey






-----Original Message-----
From: Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com>
To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Feb 15, 2013 1:07 pm
Subject: [TR] heli coiling aluminum cylinder head.


Im planning to heli coil the threads on my inlet manifold on my Stag. To
make sure the drill is perpendicular to the surface of the head, I plan to
have someone make me a 1 inch thick block and drill a perpendicular hole in
it. I plan to use this as a guide.


My issue is how to I make sure the Recoil brand of tap I have goes in
perpendicular to the hole in the cylinder head?  Im not sure what a Heli
coil tap looks, like but the recoil brand does not have a long taper.

Should I make another 1 inch block with a hole, tap that first, and then
butt the 1 inch block up against the cylinder head and then tap the threads
in the head through the 1 inch block block? Is this part over kill?
Sujit

--
Sujit Roy, Realtor
Cupertino, CA
(408) 839-8359

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Feb 15 16:23:56 2013
From: dave1massey at cs.com (Dave Massey)
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2013 18:23:56 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] heli coiling aluminum cylinder head.
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaEJSAR27e2UnRgyu_NPEtF2sjtWSwRiHpwmzYBv9LQbvA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaEJSAR27e2UnRgyu_NPEtF2sjtWSwRiHpwmzYBv9LQbvA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8CFD9EAA92E379D-16A8-1C18E@webmail-d056.sysops.aol.com>

 Sorry, sent too soon.

Yes, that is overkill. Jjust make a hole that is sized just larger than the
tap.  I have a block that I have used for years  with a hole sized to the
following taps: 4-40, 6-32, 8-32, 10-32.  I just recently make a similar block
using 1X1 square steel tubing for the helicoil job I just did.

BTW, using these blocks sure reduces tap breakage.







Dave Massey






-----Original Message-----
From: Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com>Should I make another 1 inch block with
a hole, tap that first, and thenbutt the 1 inch block up against the cylinder
head and then tap the threadsin the head through the 1 inch block block? Is
this part over kill?Sujit--

From pethier at comcast.net  Fri Feb 15 22:19:17 2013
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2013 05:19:17 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] tr4 doors
In-Reply-To: <CANzE1bFPZBBmfSyXJKsBYyGidfejYHX4U0vcfVoqsREDRRNoiw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <818136751.472662.1360991957318.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

----- Original Message -----
> From: "Geo Hahn" <ahwahneetr at gmail.com>
> To: "Triumphs" <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, February 15, 2013 12:27:54 PM
> Subject: Re: [TR] tr4 doors
> I like both -- including listening to the Doors while driving the TR4.


People are strange.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier at comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Fri Feb 15 23:09:56 2013
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2013 23:09:56 -0700
Subject: [TR] tr4 doors
In-Reply-To: <818136751.472662.1360991957318.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <818136751.472662.1360991957318.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <511F22B4.7030905@gmail.com>

On 2/15/13 10:19 PM, pethier at comcast.net wrote:
> People are strange. 
> Phil Ethier
...  when your a stranger
Faces look ugly when you're alone
Women seem wicked when you're unwanted
Streets are uneven when you're down

When you're strange
Faces come out of the rain
When you're strange
No one remembers your name
When you're strange

What is strange is trying to drive a car 50+ years newer than anything 
you have that doesn't even have a clutch, has a knob instead of a shift 
lever and doesn't have wing mirrors.

TeriAnn

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sat Feb 16 07:43:55 2013
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2013 07:43:55 -0700
Subject: [TR] tr4 doors
In-Reply-To: <511F22B4.7030905@gmail.com>
References: <818136751.472662.1360991957318.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<511F22B4.7030905@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bGL3isqyq2ZmdQPe_kQEm+UQi7=M89v-sDZ7350TkvW+g@mail.gmail.com>

At least push-button starters have made a comeback.


On Fri, Feb 15, 2013 at 11:09 PM, TeriAnn J. Wakeman <tjwakeman at gmail.com>wrote:

> What is strange is trying to drive a car 50+ years newer than anything
> you have that doesn't even have a clutch, has a knob instead of a shift
> lever and doesn't have wing mirrors.

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Sat Feb 16 08:16:12 2013
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2013 08:16:12 -0700
Subject: [TR] tr4 doors
In-Reply-To: <CANzE1bGL3isqyq2ZmdQPe_kQEm+UQi7=M89v-sDZ7350TkvW+g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <818136751.472662.1360991957318.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<511F22B4.7030905@gmail.com>
	<CANzE1bGL3isqyq2ZmdQPe_kQEm+UQi7=M89v-sDZ7350TkvW+g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <511FA2BC.1080308@gmail.com>

On 2/16/13 7:43 AM, Geo Hahn wrote:
> At least push-button starters have made a comeback.
Which makes things easier for car thieves.  Used to be they would have 
no idea how to start my cars since both have starter buttons. But yes 
I'm glad to see that the auto designers have come to their senses about 
something.

TeriAnn

From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Sat Feb 16 08:21:14 2013
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2013 09:21:14 -0600
Subject: [TR] tr4 doors
In-Reply-To: <511FA2BC.1080308@gmail.com>
References: <818136751.472662.1360991957318.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<511F22B4.7030905@gmail.com>
	<CANzE1bGL3isqyq2ZmdQPe_kQEm+UQi7=M89v-sDZ7350TkvW+g@mail.gmail.com>
	<511FA2BC.1080308@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPK7CFAZ5FpHBy1H3Hgp2ikLrOLXytr09p9fPYZ7akcbux6qhA@mail.gmail.com>

Yeah, but won't that obscure and unrecognized "third pedal" on the
floorboards keep today's theives from driving away pretty well?

Don

On 2/16/13, TeriAnn J. Wakeman <tjwakeman at gmail.com> wrote:
> On 2/16/13 7:43 AM, Geo Hahn wrote:
>> At least push-button starters have made a comeback.
> Which makes things easier for car thieves.  Used to be they would have
> no idea how to start my cars since both have starter buttons. But yes
> I'm glad to see that the auto designers have come to their senses about
> something.
>
> TeriAnn
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sat Feb 16 08:26:33 2013
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2013 08:26:33 -0700
Subject: [TR] tr4 doors
In-Reply-To: <CAPK7CFAZ5FpHBy1H3Hgp2ikLrOLXytr09p9fPYZ7akcbux6qhA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <818136751.472662.1360991957318.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<511F22B4.7030905@gmail.com>
	<CANzE1bGL3isqyq2ZmdQPe_kQEm+UQi7=M89v-sDZ7350TkvW+g@mail.gmail.com>
	<511FA2BC.1080308@gmail.com>
	<CAPK7CFAZ5FpHBy1H3Hgp2ikLrOLXytr09p9fPYZ7akcbux6qhA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bGC3zu-i9tUj+_=HMa97-w0YuvX-4PFw5TD2-1bAOJcwA@mail.gmail.com>

A local club member had his Sptifre car-jacked at gun point in a parking
lot.  The Spit owner got well away, phoned the police and watched as the
car-jacker tried to find reverse.  He was still trying to find it when the
cops showed up.  That guy is now a guest of the State of Arizona for a few
years.

On Sat, Feb 16, 2013 at 8:21 AM, Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com> wrote:

> Yeah, but won't that obscure and unrecognized "third pedal" on the
> floorboards keep today's theives from driving away pretty well?
>
> Don

From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com  Sat Feb 16 09:33:12 2013
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2013 08:33:12 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TR4 doors
Message-ID: <1361032392.51037.YahooMailNeo@web160106.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2013 09:49:17 -0800 (PST)
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 doors

i believe they had 2
--------------
Hi List!
Well it all depends on how you look at it. Yes, there are two, BUT there is supposedly be only ONE left & ONE right door. :>)

-Cosmo Kramer

From pethier at comcast.net  Sat Feb 16 13:37:29 2013
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2013 20:37:29 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] tr4 doors
In-Reply-To: <511F22B4.7030905@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <860902704.478038.1361047049861.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Unneeded message.  I already had the earworm.  

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier at comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

----- Original Message -----
> From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman at gmail.com>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2013 12:09:56 AM
> Subject: Re: [TR] tr4 doors
> On 2/15/13 10:19 PM, pethier at comcast.net wrote:
> > People are strange.
> > Phil Ethier
> ... when your a stranger
> Faces look ugly when you're alone
> Women seem wicked when you're unwanted
> Streets are uneven when you're down
> 
> When you're strange
> Faces come out of the rain
> When you're strange
> No one remembers your name
> When you're strange
> 
> What is strange is trying to drive a car 50+ years newer than anything
> you have that doesn't even have a clutch, has a knob instead of a
> shift
> lever and doesn't have wing mirrors.
> 
> TeriAnn

From wbeech at flash.net  Sat Feb 16 17:27:39 2013
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2013 18:27:39 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR4 Trans Gears Source
Message-ID: <442456B0CCFC4FCE8B78660388ED65F8@bboffice>

Just got to the transmission on the latest project, TR3B w/TSF transmission,
only to find a series of nicks in the input shaft gear.  While the gear
itself looks sound with no teeth missing it appears that possibly a foreign
object got in and caused these random nicks.  Also a few  smaller blemishes
on the opposing constant mesh gear.
 
Looking at the Moss book and see that these are N/A, don't have a Stanpart
number to search at TRF or anywhere else.  Is there a source for these
gears?
 
Many thanks,
Bill
 
 
Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566 <http://www.triumphowners.com/1566> 
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow"
M.Andretti

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Feb 16 18:53:31 2013
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2013 17:53:31 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR4 Trans Gears Source
In-Reply-To: <442456B0CCFC4FCE8B78660388ED65F8@bboffice>
Message-ID: <CA.CF.25866.71830215@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

You can download the TR4 SPC at
http://goo.gl/RtLeq

Input shaft doesn't seem to be available, TRF has the mating gear (105626)
listed for $250.

Might make more sense to look for a used box to rob parts from.  Or I think
I've got an input shaft that would be usable, but you'd have to have a
machine shop modify it to use the later center bearing (the bearing surface
inside is damaged).

-- Randall 

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Sun Feb 17 06:59:55 2013
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2013 08:59:55 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 Trans Gears Source
In-Reply-To: <CA.CF.25866.71830215@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
References: <442456B0CCFC4FCE8B78660388ED65F8@bboffice>
	<CA.CF.25866.71830215@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <CANhzkeN4F-G8UHmKqkpnZH+TqN9GB2nzLpAu-iE0Dx=ZexrR4g@mail.gmail.com>

I'd look for a used gearbox, swap out the layshaft and run it for a while.

I was the grateful recipient of a free TR4 gearbox from a fellow list
member who was moving to California.  I replaced the layshaft (quick, easy
job. it had light grooving in it so I'm glad I did it)  and it's gone about
3500 miles in the TR2 since.  Plenty of noises to sort out, but none from
the transmission!!!.  Thanks again!

Good luck

Chris

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Sun Feb 17 07:02:22 2013
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2013 09:02:22 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 Trans Gears Source
In-Reply-To: <CANhzkeN4F-G8UHmKqkpnZH+TqN9GB2nzLpAu-iE0Dx=ZexrR4g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <442456B0CCFC4FCE8B78660388ED65F8@bboffice>
	<CA.CF.25866.71830215@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
	<CANhzkeN4F-G8UHmKqkpnZH+TqN9GB2nzLpAu-iE0Dx=ZexrR4g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANhzkeNXp-4uR9wnWOSOUTyFZEChD8UzLvCc0D7ufUFq-7tt1Q@mail.gmail.com>

Of course - your results may vary.  The transmission I received was in very
good condition and was replaced because of an upgrade to the HVDA 5 speed
setup, not because of wear.

On Sun, Feb 17, 2013 at 8:59 AM, Chris Simo <ccsimonsen at gmail.com> wrote:

> I'd look for a used gearbox, swap out the layshaft and run it for a while.
>
> I was the grateful recipient of a free TR4 gearbox from a fellow list
> member who was moving to California.  I replaced the layshaft (quick, easy
> job. it had light grooving in it so I'm glad I did it)  and it's gone about
> 3500 miles in the TR2 since.  Plenty of noises to sort out, but none from
> the transmission!!!.  Thanks again!
>
> Good luck
>
> Chris

From adcronin at mi.rr.com  Mon Feb 18 14:47:07 2013
From: adcronin at mi.rr.com (Dan Cronin)
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2013 16:47:07 -0500
Subject: [TR] Replacing Sills & A-B Posts in TR2,3
Message-ID: <4017D907-08A9-463B-A955-6CAD39F6C434@mi.rr.com>

Listers
I am pretty much totally rebuilding a 55 TR2 and am puzzled by a couple of
things:
The A posts seem to be at 90 degrees to the sill while the B post seems to be
tilted in the direction of the A post very slightly.  When I measure the steel
box outs of the inner door at B post side it too seems to be tilted between
1/4 and 3/8 of an inch in the direction of the A post.....and not at 90
degrees.  Those of you who have been there and done that, what has been you
experience?  It seem like they should both be at 90, but.......both inner door
frames exhibit this slight incline towards the A post.
Dan Cronin
adcronin at mi.rr.com

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Mon Feb 18 14:59:01 2013
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2013 16:59:01 -0500
Subject: [TR] Replacing Sills & A-B Posts in TR2,3
In-Reply-To: <4017D907-08A9-463B-A955-6CAD39F6C434@mi.rr.com>
References: <4017D907-08A9-463B-A955-6CAD39F6C434@mi.rr.com>
Message-ID: <001201ce0e23$29e26470$7da72d50$@uprichard.net>

Dan - go carefully as you run the risk of losing all your landmarks if not
careful.  One suggestion is to brace the A and B posts and then replace one
at a time using the brace to ensure the new ones assume the same position.
I would also suggest you rivet the posts and then check everything fits with
good lines - front fender, door, dogleg - before taking your welder out.

Final point:  B posts differ depending on the manufacturer so panel fitting
becomes the guiding principle when deciding position.

Andrew Uprichard
P.S. I have a set of made-up TR2/3 braces you can borrow if they'd help.

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dan Cronin
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2013 4:47 PM
To: Triumph List
Subject: [TR] Replacing Sills & A-B Posts in TR2,3

Listers
I am pretty much totally rebuilding a 55 TR2 and am puzzled by a couple of
things:
The A posts seem to be at 90 degrees to the sill while the B post seems to
be tilted in the direction of the A post very slightly.  When I measure the
steel box outs of the inner door at B post side it too seems to be tilted
between
1/4 and 3/8 of an inch in the direction of the A post.....and not at 90
degrees.  Those of you who have been there and done that, what has been you
experience?  It seem like they should both be at 90, but.......both inner
door frames exhibit this slight incline towards the A post.
Dan Cronin
adcronin at mi.rr.com

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net

From l1j1s at aol.com  Mon Feb 18 15:59:53 2013
From: l1j1s at aol.com (l1j1s at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2013 17:59:53 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] Tr-Tr3 engine vent pipe
Message-ID: <8CFDC42CBBE6D01-1484-DD5B@Webmail-d115.sysops.aol.com>

List, with reference to the Tr-3 engine vent pipe i have a question. Yes we
all know the benefits of the engine vent tube( it lubricates the engine bay
and the chassis), but if one wants to keep the engine bay and chassic clean
can one incorpoorate a oil catch can for the engine vent pipe? Are there any
drawbacks to this added on item?  Larry Schwartz

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Mon Feb 18 16:23:14 2013
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2013 15:23:14 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Tr-Tr3 engine vent pipe
In-Reply-To: <8CFDC42CBBE6D01-1484-DD5B@Webmail-d115.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CFDC42CBBE6D01-1484-DD5B@Webmail-d115.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <1361229794.57594.YahooMailNeo@web120003.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Larry
that's exactly what all the race drivers have to do. compulsory.
i have
seen many ways of routing it into a catch bottle/can/fancy container.
Frank
From: "l1j1s at aol.com" <l1j1s at aol.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent:
Monday, February 18, 2013 2:59 PM
Subject: [TR] Tr-Tr3 engine vent pipe

List,
with reference to the Tr-3 engine vent pipe i have a question. Yes we
all know
the benefits of the engine vent tube( it lubricates the engine bay
and the
chassis), but if one wants to keep the engine bay and chassic clean
can one
incorpoorate a oil catch can for the engine vent pipe? Are there any
drawbacks
to this added on item?  Larry Schwartz

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com

From dave at ranteer.com  Mon Feb 18 16:28:05 2013
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2013 17:28:05 -0600
Subject: [TR] Tr-Tr3 engine vent pipe
In-Reply-To: <1361229794.57594.YahooMailNeo@web120003.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <8CFDC42CBBE6D01-1484-DD5B@Webmail-d115.sysops.aol.com>
	<1361229794.57594.YahooMailNeo@web120003.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <A042F3AA9A9F4EE09BEE2EABF57735C8@Datsun>

wouldn't a filter accomplish the same objective?  maybe some kind of hose 
clamped on thing?

-----Original Message----- 
From: Frank Fisher
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2013 5:23 PM
To: l1j1s at aol.com ; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Tr-Tr3 engine vent pipe

Larry
that's exactly what all the race drivers have to do. compulsory.
i have
seen many ways of routing it into a catch bottle/can/fancy container.
Frank
From: "l1j1s at aol.com" <l1j1s at aol.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent:
Monday, February 18, 2013 2:59 PM
Subject: [TR] Tr-Tr3 engine vent pipe

List,
with reference to the Tr-3 engine vent pipe i have a question. Yes we
all know
the benefits of the engine vent tube( it lubricates the engine bay
and the
chassis), but if one wants to keep the engine bay and chassic clean
can one
incorpoorate a oil catch can for the engine vent pipe? Are there any
drawbacks
to this added on item?  Larry Schwartz

** triumphs at autox.team.net ** 

From dlhogye at comcast.net  Mon Feb 18 17:02:22 2013
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye)
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2013 00:02:22 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Tr-Tr3 engine vent pipe
In-Reply-To: <A042F3AA9A9F4EE09BEE2EABF57735C8@Datsun>
Message-ID: <188321991.1198690.1361232142232.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Larry, 
Very funny description of the vent tube benefits. The stock tube will still supply oil to unwanted areas even if you run it to a catch can. The trick is to seal it well at the block connection. This is very difficult to do with the stock tube. It has a split in it and only a slip fit for Pete's sake. I made an steel fitting with an O-ring seal and welded it to a modified vent tube, then ran it straight up to a catch can. I can't imagine oil ever finding it's way to the can. Unless of course a serious motor problem arises or the car is upside down. 
Good luck, 
Dave H. 

----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave" <dave at ranteer.com> 
To: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2013 3:28:05 PM 
Subject: Re: [TR] Tr-Tr3 engine vent pipe 

wouldn't a filter accomplish the same objective? maybe some kind of hose 
clamped on thing? 

-----Original Message----- 
From: Frank Fisher 
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2013 5:23 PM 
To: l1j1s at aol.com ; triumphs at autox.team.net 
Subject: Re: [TR] Tr-Tr3 engine vent pipe 

Larry 
that's exactly what all the race drivers have to do. compulsory. 
i have 
seen many ways of routing it into a catch bottle/can/fancy container. 
Frank 
From: "l1j1s at aol.com" <l1j1s at aol.com> 
To: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: 
Monday, February 18, 2013 2:59 PM 
Subject: [TR] Tr-Tr3 engine vent pipe 

List, 
with reference to the Tr-3 engine vent pipe i have a question. Yes we 
all know 
the benefits of the engine vent tube( it lubricates the engine bay 
and the 
chassis), but if one wants to keep the engine bay and chassic clean 
can one 
incorpoorate a oil catch can for the engine vent pipe? Are there any 
drawbacks 
to this added on item? Larry Schwartz 

** triumphs at autox.team.net ** 

** triumphs at autox.team.net ** 

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From fishplate at charter.net  Mon Feb 18 19:13:15 2013
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff)
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2013 21:13:15 -0500
Subject: [TR] Tr-Tr3 engine vent pipe
In-Reply-To: <188321991.1198690.1361232142232.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <188321991.1198690.1361232142232.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <5122DFBB.2040704@charter.net>

On 2/18/2013 7:02 PM, davehogye wrote:

> I can't imagine oil ever finding it's way to the can. Unless of course a serious motor problem arises or the car is upside down.

In which case you can easily oil the bottom of the car yourself, instead 
of using the complicated draft tube system...

From JGILLIS at tcd.ie  Tue Feb 19 02:26:00 2013
From: JGILLIS at tcd.ie (John Gillis)
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2013 09:26:00 +0000
Subject: [TR] Demister hose
Message-ID: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB0352D845B179@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>

TR2 demister hose, is there an alternative to the paper and wire affair that
unravels under the dashboard, and refuses to go back onto the vent or feed
without crumpling up! I'm all for originality, but I bet the original stuff
was of better quality than this.
Regards
John

From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Tue Feb 19 06:18:03 2013
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2013 08:18:03 -0500
Subject: [TR] Interesting TR3 Mistral special in Belgium show
Message-ID: <CAPK7CFBwaqaNjvGhurKZmTpCW+7fVba6ab3yCXq0rcJG1hFvaw@mail.gmail.com>

Neat looking car:
http://www.classicandsportscar.com/news/classic-car-events/one-off-triumph-special-steals-the-show-in-belgium

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Tue Feb 19 06:26:47 2013
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2013 06:26:47 -0700
Subject: [TR] Interesting TR3 Mistral special in Belgium show
In-Reply-To: <CAPK7CFBwaqaNjvGhurKZmTpCW+7fVba6ab3yCXq0rcJG1hFvaw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPK7CFBwaqaNjvGhurKZmTpCW+7fVba6ab3yCXq0rcJG1hFvaw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <51237D97.70400@gmail.com>

On 2/19/13 6:18 AM, Don Hiscock wrote:
> Neat looking car:
> http://www.classicandsportscar.com/news/classic-car-events/one-off-triumph-special-steals-the-show-in-belgium
>
>
I have long lusted for a Devin bodied TR3 but the Mistral bodied TR3 is 
really nice as well.  I wonder why no one has cleand it up and given it 
a new coat of paint?

TeriAnn

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue Feb 19 06:31:58 2013
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob)
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2013 08:31:58 -0500
Subject: [TR] Demister hose
In-Reply-To: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB0352D845B179@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>
References: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB0352D845B179@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>
Message-ID: <FD98A0A7DB1C402FA52FF76BF55F04AF@BobDell>

McMaster carries a wide variety of flexible duct hose......... I got the 
Tear Resistant for Dust http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/119/238/=ljnnig 
for my TR6. Much better quality than the old stuff.


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/

1975 TR6 modified with:
-Throttle Body Injection
-Toyota 5 Speed
-Nissan Differential
-AAW Wire Harness
-CVJs... and more

-----Original Message----- 
From: John Gillis
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2013 4:26 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Demister hose

TR2 demister hose, is there an alternative to the paper and wire affair that
unravels under the dashboard, and refuses to go back onto the vent or feed
without crumpling up! I'm all for originality, but I bet the original stuff
was of better quality than this.
Regards
John

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From mathews at uga.edu  Tue Feb 19 06:34:25 2013
From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews)
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2013 08:34:25 -0500
Subject: [TR] Interesting TR3 Mistral special in Belgium show
In-Reply-To: <51237D97.70400@gmail.com>
References: <CAPK7CFBwaqaNjvGhurKZmTpCW+7fVba6ab3yCXq0rcJG1hFvaw@mail.gmail.com>
	<51237D97.70400@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <51237F61.7030105@uga.edu>

Not certain where I heard this, but I've heard that in a lot of older 
card still original that leaving them with their accumulated patina 
maintains their value more. Obviously non-drivers though.

Doug
On 2/19/2013 8:26 AM, TeriAnn J. Wakeman wrote:
> I have long lusted for a Devin bodied TR3 but the Mistral bodied TR3 is
> really nice as well.  I wonder why no one has cleand it up and given it
> a new coat of paint?

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Tue Feb 19 09:08:30 2013
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2013 08:08:30 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Demister hose
In-Reply-To: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB0352D845B179@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>
References: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB0352D845B179@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>
Message-ID: <1361290110.97683.YahooMailNeo@web120003.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

yes
lots of alternatives
http://www.mcmaster.com/#duct-hose/=ljpoef
 
Frank
From: John Gillis <JGILLIS at tcd.ie>
To: "triumphs at autox.team.net"
<triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2013 1:26 AM
Subject:
[TR] Demister hose

TR2 demister hose, is there an alternative to the paper
and wire affair that
unravels under the dashboard, and refuses to go back onto
the vent or feed
without crumpling up! I'm all for originality, but I bet the
original stuff
was of better quality than this.
Regards
John

**
triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com  Tue Feb 19 10:24:25 2013
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2013 09:24:25 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Tr-Tr3 engine vent pipe
Message-ID: <1361294665.59234.YahooMailNeo@web160106.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Hi Dan!
Yes, it can be done & I have it set up in my TR4A, NOW! as it was
mentioned in my last digest, racers do this, but in a different way that I've
done. (I'm NOT racing.)
 
I have a tube run UP the engine to am Empty 1 qt.
paint reducer can. (this has a funnel top which the tube runs into when upside
down. On the bottom of the can (which is really the top because the 1 qt.
container is 'up-side down'.), is a brazed on pipe that hold an oil filler air
filter cap. Everything is clamped so any excess oil can run BACK INTO the
engine & ONLY the fumes can vent out if need to. 

-Cosmo Kramer

From trglory at verizon.net  Tue Feb 19 12:34:06 2013
From: trglory at verizon.net (Joseph Laurito)
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2013 14:34:06 -0500
Subject: [TR] Demister hose
In-Reply-To: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB0352D845B179@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>
References: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB0352D845B179@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>
Message-ID: <005301ce0ed8$1596c410$40c44c30$@net>

TRF sells a wire wound polyurethane duct which is quite nice.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Gillis
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2013 4:26 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Demister hose

TR2 demister hose, is there an alternative to the paper and wire affair that
unravels under the dashboard, and refuses to go back onto the vent or feed
without crumpling up! I'm all for originality, but I bet the original stuff
was of better quality than this.
Regards
John

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trglory at verizon.net

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Tue Feb 19 19:44:34 2013
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2013 21:44:34 -0500
Subject: [TR] Demister hose
In-Reply-To: <005301ce0ed8$1596c410$40c44c30$@net>
References: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB0352D845B179@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>
	<005301ce0ed8$1596c410$40c44c30$@net>
Message-ID: <CANhzkeOaxxPuUUqoBs+NbNo4xr-GYw=bSkkTdzi84KyE=sPfFQ@mail.gmail.com>

I do like mcmaster carr. Just placed an order today. Bunch of hardware,
rubber bumpers for the tr6 seats and a knob for locking down the spare.

From ashleys at farmside.co.nz  Thu Feb 21 00:51:53 2013
From: ashleys at farmside.co.nz (ashleys)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2013 20:51:53 +1300
Subject: [TR] Replacing TR2 gearbox with TR6 gearbox
Message-ID: <218AA4A9549C4ED4BCC1C07D61B65F8F@AshleysPC>

Hi!,What does one look for changing long door TR2 gearbox with the later 1970
TR6 overdrive gearbox.Ie clutch/driveshaft.Any thoughts would be welcomed.
Thanks,
Ashley

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Feb 21 02:06:08 2013
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2013 01:06:08 -0800
Subject: [TR] Replacing TR2 gearbox with TR6 gearbox
In-Reply-To: <218AA4A9549C4ED4BCC1C07D61B65F8F@AshleysPC>
Message-ID: <89.FF.25887.373E5215@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> Hi!,What does one look for changing long door TR2 gearbox 
> with the later 1970
> TR6 overdrive gearbox.Ie clutch/driveshaft.

Keep your old clutch setup, it will work with the TR6 box.  You may need to
do something creative with the clutch slave cylinder mounting, as the TR6
box is thicker in that area.  On my TR3/A I just made up a shorter pushrod
to account for the difference (but it has the Girling slave instead of
Lockheed so your solution may be different).

I installed the TR2/3 brass bushings to carry the clutch operating shaft,
and added zerks so they could be greased.  Not necessary, but should reduce
wear in that area.

The driveshaft will bolt right up, the sliding spline has enough range to
cover the slight increase in overall length.  Be sure to replace the Nyloc
nuts.  I prefer to use all-metal lock nuts (aka Stover nuts) as I've found
that even new Nylocs will back off sometimes.  Note that the bolts are
specials but available from the usual suspects.

Slot the holes in the rear crossmember, to allow for the extra length (about
3/8" or one bolt width).  I also had to fold down the lip at the back so it
wouldn't rub on the mount.

You'll probably need longer studs and bolts on the back of the engine.  The
studs can't be too long though, or the output flange will hit the tunnel
when trying to R&R the gearbox with the engine still in the car.

Although not necessary, I swapped the TR6 shift linkage components into an
early top cover, so I could keep the dipstick.  If you do keep the TR6 top
cover, you'll probably want to install the TR2 shift lever, which may
require drilling out the holes on the sides.  The TR6 lever will work, but
is longer (and curved) and just looks odd to me.

Of course you'll need the OD wiring if you don't already have it, but that's
covered in the manual.  I added an in-line fuse in the hot wire to the
relay, so the fuse will open if the solenoid gets stuck in some manner and
the cutout contacts don't open.  Hopefully that will save the solenoid from
overheating and letting out the smoke.  Of course that means the OD will
drop out, potentially over-revving the engine, but I figure that will happen
anyway when the solenoid burns up and my engine doesn't seem to mind brief
excursions to 6k rpm.  I used an 8 amp "slow blow" fuse just because I've
got a bunch of them, but an ordinary 10 amp (or even 5 amp) fuse should do
fine.

The original relay lasted a long time; but replacements seemed to fail
quickly until I added a snubber diode from the load terminal to ground.  Not
being a stickler for originality (obviously), I just used an ordinary
Bosch/Tyco type automotive relay from the local parts store.

It's probably worth doing a pressure test on the OD, and replacing the
isolator switches before installing it in the car.  I put in an iffy switch
for 2nd gear and I'm regretting it now as it stopped working the other day.


-- Randall 

From Loumetelko at aol.com  Thu Feb 21 15:04:31 2013
From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2013 17:04:31 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] Replacing TR2 gearbox with TR6 gearbox
Message-ID: <475b1.693347af.3e57f3ef@aol.com>

Hi!,What  does one look for changing long door TR2 gearbox with the later 
1970
TR6  overdrive gearbox.Ie clutch/driveshaft.Any thoughts would be  welcomed.
 


Ashley:
Let me get this straight - You have a TR2 Long  Door and you want to use a 
TR6 transmission.  Why would you purposely  ruin the rarest of the rare?  
Sounds like someone just gave you a free  TR6 transmission with overdrive.
 
Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Thu Feb 21 15:36:15 2013
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2013 17:36:15 -0500
Subject: [TR] Replacing TR2 gearbox with TR6 gearbox
In-Reply-To: <475b1.693347af.3e57f3ef@aol.com>
References: <475b1.693347af.3e57f3ef@aol.com>
Message-ID: <CANhzkeNErLPCF1XYnnpjsdqR5CHQME6weGmYZfpUWuEg_B-sBw@mail.gmail.com>

I have a longdoor TR2 - The original transmission is not an overdrive and
was, well overdue for a rebuild. I put a TR4 transmission in the car for
now and  I'm looking for an old overdrive I can rebuild and I'll put that
in there next.

I've saved the original transmission for the future caretaker of this car.
 I've kept all the original bits and boxed them carefully for the future
owner. I recommend you do the same.

The TR4 transmission was still a bit of work to fit.  Slotted the
transmission mount and also loosened up the motor mounts and pulled the
engine as far forward as any slop would allow. It's just a bit longer than
the TR2 but fit and all covers bolt down nicely.  Clutch slave cylinder
bolted up just fine .  I seem to recall the TR4 transmission flange is
thicker than the TR2 so it may be a similar exercise to fit the tr6
transmission. No issues with driveshaft.  If unsure - I'd go ahead and
replace the universal joints while you have it out.

Since you have an early TR2 - you'll have the push pull overdrive switch
that fits into the dash  vs the toggle switch version.  I'd connect that to
an external relay and control the overdrive wiring that way.

I still want an overdrive,  I feel so bad when I take the TR2 on the
highway and the RPMs are over 4000 to get to 70mph.  It must have a low
gear in the diff.

Until then, we'll motor on and stay off the big roads as much as possible.

From alansalvy at gmail.com  Thu Feb 21 18:42:33 2013
From: alansalvy at gmail.com (alan salvatore)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2013 20:42:33 -0500
Subject: [TR] car haulers
Message-ID: <CAAAEehTo2bJ=-o-pHkvY3Ev+sibMm_YjxAzSF-x+ieL2KGK1pw@mail.gmail.com>

I've sold my long time friend and the buyer asked me if I know of any
shippers.

I'm not familar to many;  I've used uship.com, but I think he might want a
regular carrier.

TR6 from SC to Houston, Tx.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Al

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Thu Feb 21 18:50:04 2013
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2013 01:50:04 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Replacing TR2 gearbox with TR6 gearbox
In-Reply-To: <475b1.693347af.3e57f3ef@aol.com>
Message-ID: <2062727866.1582197.1361497804325.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Lou, 



Would you be happy if the TR2 gearbox was converted to o/d? One could remove the o/d from the TR6 'box and install it on the original TR2's. Just need a mainshaft. 



Ed 

From pethier at comcast.net  Thu Feb 21 21:37:02 2013
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2013 04:37:02 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] car haulers
In-Reply-To: <CAAAEehTo2bJ=-o-pHkvY3Ev+sibMm_YjxAzSF-x+ieL2KGK1pw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1371857968.563448.1361507822248.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I like Passport.  Actually founded by a guy named Pass.

I've shipped a few cars with them.

Do NOT go through a broker.  You wind up with Bubba and his girlfriend Darlene.  I have seen this happen.  Always deal with the company that owns the trucks.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier at comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

----- Original Message -----
> From: "alan salvatore" <alansalvy at gmail.com>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2013 7:42:33 PM
> Subject: [TR] car haulers
> I've sold my long time friend and the buyer asked me if I know of any
> shippers.
> 
> I'm not familar to many; I've used uship.com, but I think he might
> want a
> regular carrier.
> 
> TR6 from SC to Houston, Tx.
> 
> Any suggestions?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Al
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Feb 21 21:40:31 2013
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2013 20:40:31 -0800
Subject: [TR] Replacing TR2 gearbox with TR6 gearbox
In-Reply-To: <2062727866.1582197.1361497804325.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <9E.2F.25866.0B6F6215@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> Would you be happy if the TR2 gearbox was converted to o/d? 
> One could remove the o/d from the TR6 'box and install it on 
> the original TR2's. Just need a mainshaft. 

"Just" he says, like changing the mainshaft is as easy as changing a tire!
<G>

And some light modifications to the adapter plate IIRC.  The difference
wasn't much, but ISTR that unless you remove some metal, the TR6 plate won't
sit properly on the back of the 3-synchro gearbox.

-- Randall 

From gpr at key-men.com  Fri Feb 22 02:33:15 2013
From: gpr at key-men.com (George Richardson)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2013 04:33:15 -0500
Subject: [TR] car haulers
In-Reply-To: <1371857968.563448.1361507822248.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1371857968.563448.1361507822248.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <51273B5B.8000103@key-men.com>

I can second this, I dealt with a company in Florida that took my 
payment and scheduled the pickup and delivery, but nodoby showed. Then 
we began a dance  that ended with the truck (Land Rover Discovery) being 
picked up while no-one was around, and delivered to my driveway at 
midnight while I was asleep by two Russin guys who barely spoke english. 
If it hadn't been for the fact that I managed to the get the supposedly 
non-operting truck started, I think they would have just dopped it 
blocking my driveway and left.

Plus, they wanted additional expenses "for their trouble".

George Richardson
Key Men - Keys for Classics
www.key-men.com

On 2/21/2013 11:37 PM, pethier at comcast.net wrote:
> I like Passport.  Actually founded by a guy named Pass.
>
> I've shipped a few cars with them.
>
> Do NOT go through a broker.  You wind up with Bubba and his girlfriend Darlene.  I have seen this happen.  Always deal with the company that owns the trucks.
>
> Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
> 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
> 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
> 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
> 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
> pethier at comcast.net
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
> http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
> http://www.mnautox.com
> http://www.mntriumphs.org
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "alan salvatore" <alansalvy at gmail.com>
>> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
>> Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2013 7:42:33 PM
>> Subject: [TR] car haulers
>> I've sold my long time friend and the buyer asked me if I know of any
>> shippers.
>>
>> I'm not familar to many; I've used uship.com, but I think he might
>> want a
>> regular carrier.
>>
>> TR6 from SC to Houston, Tx.
>>
>> Any suggestions?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Al
>>
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Fri Feb 22 07:13:07 2013
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2013 07:13:07 -0700
Subject: [TR] car haulers
In-Reply-To: <CAAAEehTo2bJ=-o-pHkvY3Ev+sibMm_YjxAzSF-x+ieL2KGK1pw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAAAEehTo2bJ=-o-pHkvY3Ev+sibMm_YjxAzSF-x+ieL2KGK1pw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bGcf72es1R_7Ar07L1phGgN8VKC6UUbcj11rqvjx4gHsQ@mail.gmail.com>

Certainly a service we often need but rife with risks and incompetence.

The big names (Passport & Intercity) are pretty sound choices for enclosed
transport but may also be the priciest.

I recently shipped a car using a sole-proprietor set-up, a couple of
brothers with an enclosed 30' trailer.  They picked up the car in Oregon on
a Saturday afternoon and were at my place (Tucson) first thing Monday
morning.  They could have been there Sunday evening but I didn't want to
unload in the dark.  My car (and some boxes of parts) was the only thing in
the trailer.

I liked working with just one family, no driver/crew changes,
no unloading & reloading en route and no '68 Camaro leaking oil on my new
car.

The outfit is Double D Transport based in San Jose.  The contact is Bruce
Daniel (though his brother Myles & Myles' adult son Christopher did the
delivery).  They are federally licensed and insured (I ran the numbers
through the govt system).

Bruce's number is 408-340-0864.  Some info here:
http://www.uship.com/profile/doubledtrans1/

There are probably many competent, honest independents doing this sort of
work but they can be hard to find.

Geo




On Thu, Feb 21, 2013 at 6:42 PM, alan salvatore <alansalvy at gmail.com> wrote:

> I've sold my long time friend and the buyer asked me if I know of any
> shippers.

From wbeech at flash.net  Fri Feb 22 07:57:40 2013
From: wbeech at flash.net (WBEECH)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2013 08:57:40 -0600
Subject: [TR] car haulers
In-Reply-To: <51273B5B.8000103@key-men.com>
References: <1371857968.563448.1361507822248.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<51273B5B.8000103@key-men.com>
Message-ID: <41E02B14-797C-4A6B-8847-735CED3BF625@flash.net>

Whether you use a broker or owner-operator, get recommendations.  I have done
both with excellent service and no problems.

Most recently a broker arranged for eBay-purchased Land Rover, he did a great
job bringing it from SoCal to Texas in two days with great communication all
the way.

Sent from mobile Bill

On Feb 22, 2013, at 3:33 AM, George Richardson <gpr at key-men.com> wrote:

I can second this, I dealt with a company in Florida that took my payment and
scheduled the pickup and delivery, but nodoby showed. Then we began a dance
that ended with the truck (Land Rover Discovery) being picked up while no-one
was around, and delivered to my driveway at midnight while I was asleep by two
Russin guys who barely spoke english. If it hadn't been for the fact that I
managed to the get the supposedly non-operting truck started, I think they
would have just dopped it blocking my driveway and left.

Plus, they wanted additional expenses "for their trouble".

George Richardson
Key Men - Keys for Classics
www.key-men.com

On 2/21/2013 11:37 PM, pethier at comcast.net wrote:
> I like Passport.  Actually founded by a guy named Pass.
>
> I've shipped a few cars with them.
>
> Do NOT go through a broker.  You wind up with Bubba and his girlfriend
Darlene.  I have seen this happen.  Always deal with the company that owns the
trucks.
>
> Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
> 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
> 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
> 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
> 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
> pethier at comcast.net
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
> http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
> http://www.mnautox.com
> http://www.mntriumphs.org
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "alan salvatore" <alansalvy at gmail.com>
>> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
>> Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2013 7:42:33 PM
>> Subject: [TR] car haulers
>> I've sold my long time friend and the buyer asked me if I know of any
>> shippers.
>>
>> I'm not familar to many; I've used uship.com, but I think he might
>> want a
>> regular carrier.
>>
>> TR6 from SC to Houston, Tx.
>>
>> Any suggestions?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Al
>>
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/gpr at key-men.com

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From tr250driver at gmail.com  Sat Feb 23 08:14:41 2013
From: tr250driver at gmail.com (darrell floyd)
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2013 10:14:41 -0500
Subject: [TR] Judson Supercharger wanted
Message-ID: <CABrPJU9K5n8EMV+jmk4RaPtC40MNASujTCETO6Krsr3X0z+1sg@mail.gmail.com>

Hi,
I am searching for a Judson for my 63 TR4. Ideally, I it would be a
complete, ready to bolt on unit.  If anyone can help I would ready
appreciate it. Please e-mail me off List.
Thanks,
Darrell

From levilevi at comcast.net  Sat Feb 23 10:00:02 2013
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud R)
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2013 10:00:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] car haulers
In-Reply-To: <CAAAEehTo2bJ=-o-pHkvY3Ev+sibMm_YjxAzSF-x+ieL2KGK1pw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAAAEehTo2bJ=-o-pHkvY3Ev+sibMm_YjxAzSF-x+ieL2KGK1pw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CFE9576C-6ED4-4730-83F6-93402CC8262B@comcast.net>

Lamb Transports hauled a car for me recently from New Jersey to  
Denver. I wanted lift service (car is low to the ground) and covered  
transport. I went through a broker which was OK but the hauling and  
delivery was well done so I'd contact them directly if I needed that  
service again.

http://www.lambautotransports.com/


Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle
77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)








On Feb 21, 2013, at 6:42 PM, alan salvatore wrote:

> I've sold my long time friend and the buyer asked me if I know of any
> shippers.
>
> I'm not familar to many;  I've used uship.com, but I think he might  
> want a
> regular carrier.
>
> TR6 from SC to Houston, Tx.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Al
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Sun Feb 24 09:30:12 2013
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2013 11:30:12 -0500
Subject: [TR] door pull needed
Message-ID: <020d01ce12ac$397ab120$ac701360$@uprichard.net>

List:

 

I am completing the restoration of a small-mouth TR3 and all I need now are
the cable door pulls which I can't seem to find anywhere.  Does anyone on
the list have a pair ?

 

Andrew Uprichard

From gpr at key-men.com  Sun Feb 24 12:11:04 2013
From: gpr at key-men.com (George Richardson)
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2013 14:11:04 -0500
Subject: [TR] door pull needed
In-Reply-To: <020d01ce12ac$397ab120$ac701360$@uprichard.net>
References: <020d01ce12ac$397ab120$ac701360$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <512A65C8.5030900@key-men.com>

Macy's Garage has these:

http://www.macysgarage.com/myweb6/Parts/other_tr2_3_parts.htm#TR2/3%20Door%20Latch%20Pull%20Straps

George Richardson
Key Men - Keys for Classics
www.key-men.com

On 2/24/2013 11:30 AM, Andrew Uprichard wrote:
> List:
>
>   
>
> I am completing the restoration of a small-mouth TR3 and all I need now are
> the cable door pulls which I can't seem to find anywhere.  Does anyone on
> the list have a pair ?
>
>   
>
> Andrew Uprichard
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/gpr at key-men.com

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Sun Feb 24 12:35:12 2013
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2013 14:35:12 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] Door Pulls   and more
In-Reply-To: <mailman.9.1361732403.31579.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.9.1361732403.31579.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8CFE0DD31F29EF2-F10-6B29A@webmail-d093.sysops.aol.com>

Andrew,

I got mine a long time ago from TRF.

It also occurs to me that they could easily be made up with cable and black
tubing.

BTW, Andrew, we have Detroit folks coming into the Kastner Cup at Road America
in September. AND I am looking for a TR250 to show at the Gathering on the
Green.

There is a selection committee and, if true to past years, the selected owner
gets two weekend passes.

Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-request <triumphs-request at autox.team.net>
To: triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Feb 24, 2013 12:54 pm
Subject: Triumphs Digest, Vol 6, Issue 71


Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to
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When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..."


Today's Topics:

   1. door pull needed (Andrew Uprichard)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2013 11:30:12 -0500
From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard at uprichard.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] door pull needed
Message-ID: <020d01ce12ac$397ab120$ac701360$@uprichard.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

List:



I am completing the restoration of a small-mouth TR3 and all I need now are
the cable door pulls which I can't seem to find anywhere.  Does anyone on
the list have a pair ?



Andrew Uprichard


------------------------------

_______________________________________________

Triumphs mailing list
Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 6, Issue 71
***************************************

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Feb 24 12:56:02 2013
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2013 11:56:02 -0800
Subject: [TR] Door Pulls   and more
In-Reply-To: <8CFE0DD31F29EF2-F10-6B29A@webmail-d093.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <FC.AA.00734.1507A215@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> I got mine a long time ago from TRF.
> 
> It also occurs to me that they could easily be made up with 
> cable and black tubing.

The early cars (TR2-TR3 up to TS22013) used a different pull, which
consisted of a leather core covered with finished vinyl (or maybe the outer
was leather too) in interior color.  Since they hang on the outside of the
door panel, using the later 'cable' pulls would look funny IMO.

I don't know of a source of the early pulls already made up, but I believe
Mark Macy sells the finisher on the end and it shouldn't be too hard to
fabricate the rest.  If you do find a source, please let me know as I need
them too.

-- Randall 

From terryrs at comcast.net  Sun Feb 24 14:19:07 2013
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2013 21:19:07 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR3A Air Filters
In-Reply-To: <512A65C8.5030900@key-men.com>
Message-ID: <2023990556.1470771.1361740747063.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Nearly March.  Spent part of the day using my John Deere 210C loader to out our our driveway that's three football fiels long.  Spent the other part of the day changing engine and tranny oil on the 3.  

Wanted to change the air cleaners.  Have run paper for the past several years, but forgot how to source them.  Ones I have are oval instead of round, so don't really fit too well (get in the way of the gasline).

What paper filters can I get that fit the standard SU's?  (Nope, don't want the K&N's.)

Thanks, everyone!

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A  TS 58667
New Hampshire

From gpr at key-men.com  Sun Feb 24 17:03:02 2013
From: gpr at key-men.com (George Richardson)
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2013 19:03:02 -0500
Subject: [TR] Door Pulls   and more
In-Reply-To: <FC.AA.00734.1507A215@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
References: <FC.AA.00734.1507A215@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <512AAA36.4090000@key-men.com>

Macy's sell the entire kit. You just need to cover it with matching fabric.

George Richardson
Key Men - Keys for Classics
www.key-men.com

On 2/24/2013 2:56 PM, Randall wrote:
>> I got mine a long time ago from TRF.
>>
>> It also occurs to me that they could easily be made up with
>> cable and black tubing.
> The early cars (TR2-TR3 up to TS22013) used a different pull, which
> consisted of a leather core covered with finished vinyl (or maybe the outer
> was leather too) in interior color.  Since they hang on the outside of the
> door panel, using the later 'cable' pulls would look funny IMO.
>
> I don't know of a source of the early pulls already made up, but I believe
> Mark Macy sells the finisher on the end and it shouldn't be too hard to
> fabricate the rest.  If you do find a source, please let me know as I need
> them too.
>
> -- Randall
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/gpr at key-men.com

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Sun Feb 24 17:03:27 2013
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2013 17:03:27 -0700
Subject: [TR] door pull needed
In-Reply-To: <020d01ce12ac$397ab120$ac701360$@uprichard.net>
References: <020d01ce12ac$397ab120$ac701360$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <512AAA4F.3090501@gmail.com>

On 2/24/13 9:30 AM, Andrew Uprichard wrote:
>   
> I am completing the restoration of a small-mouth TR3 and all I need now are
> the cable door pulls which I can't seem to find anywhere.  Does anyone on
> the list have a pair ?
>
>
I used bicycle brake cables. Cut them to size and installed them. They 
work just fine.

TeriAnn

From alansalvy at gmail.com  Sun Feb 24 18:44:53 2013
From: alansalvy at gmail.com (alan salvatore)
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2013 20:44:53 -0500
Subject: [TR] car haulers
In-Reply-To: <CAAAEehTo2bJ=-o-pHkvY3Ev+sibMm_YjxAzSF-x+ieL2KGK1pw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAAAEehTo2bJ=-o-pHkvY3Ev+sibMm_YjxAzSF-x+ieL2KGK1pw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAAAEehQa-a=Qfm3kjJPe_dc7e-YHgr-ZE-h12ZQH3_TPAGyZbA@mail.gmail.com>

 I am looking for the evaporative loss coupling which connects the plastic
tubing from the gas tank to the carbon canister. It was used on 72-76 TR6's.

I can make up the hoses, but I really need the restrictor ; Moss # 379-260.

www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=32758

Mine must have fallen off the car on the transporter from the body shop.
If you have one, PM me with a price.

Thanks,

Al

From alansalvy at gmail.com  Sun Feb 24 18:46:47 2013
From: alansalvy at gmail.com (alan salvatore)
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2013 20:46:47 -0500
Subject: [TR] Evaporative loss coupling
Message-ID: <CAAAEehR_kjztL4LSv6AZBNgk6i+km9VtAxi0N_TOqW=SpgpLcg@mail.gmail.com>

 I am looking for the evaporative loss coupling which connects the plastic
tubing from the gas tank to the carbon canister. It was used on 72-76
TR6's.  The hole thing is about 6 inches long.

I can make up the hoses, but I really need the restrictor ; Moss # 379-260.

www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=32758

Mine must have fallen off the car on the transporter from the body shop.
If you have one, PM me with a price.

Thanks,

Al

From smithw1 at optonline.net  Sun Feb 24 19:52:20 2013
From: smithw1 at optonline.net (WILLIAM SMITH)
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2013 21:52:20 -0500
Subject: [TR] Wedge Tires & Rims For Sale
Message-ID: <001001ce1303$2187a350$6496e9f0$@optonline.net>

Someone who contacted our local club got rid of his TR8 and wants to sell
tires and rims that didn't go with the car.  I went to see them, but passed
on them - they all had been sitting outside and I was looking for some that
were pristine and ready to go on the car.  The items for sale are:

 

-          4 stock style alloy rims

-          4 new (stickers still on tread) Hoosier 205/60zr13 tires

-          4 Goodyear Eagle ST 205/60R13 tires (date code in 2008 and very
good tread - looks to be hardly used)

 

They are located in Caldwell, NJ and the contact is:

 

Greg Cowell

508-436-0374

cowellgreg at gmail.com

 

NFI

 

Bill

 

Bill Smith

1980 TR7 DHC

1972 TR6

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Sun Feb 24 20:37:08 2013
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2013 22:37:08 -0500
Subject: [TR] door pull needed
In-Reply-To: <512AAA4F.3090501@gmail.com>
References: <020d01ce12ac$397ab120$ac701360$@uprichard.net>
	<512AAA4F.3090501@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000a01ce1309$64607700$2d216500$@uprichard.net>

Sorry if I wasn't clear, but this is for a small-mouth TR3, not a 3A.
Bicycle cables don't work here.

Andrew

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TeriAnn J. Wakeman
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2013 7:03 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] door pull needed

On 2/24/13 9:30 AM, Andrew Uprichard wrote:
>   
> I am completing the restoration of a small-mouth TR3 and all I need 
> now are the cable door pulls which I can't seem to find anywhere.  
> Does anyone on the list have a pair ?
>
>
I used bicycle brake cables. Cut them to size and installed them. They work
just fine.

TeriAnn

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From dave at ranteer.com  Sun Feb 24 21:58:50 2013
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2013 22:58:50 -0600
Subject: [TR] webers
Message-ID: <E8E3692D49D9474999D5C4326B8DC6A1@Datsun>

hi, all.

my mechanic recently sold me, very cheap!  a weber downdraft to replace the
anemic single zs carb on our 75 sptifire.

herebs a picture of it:   www.ranteer.com/misc

it seems to us that at full throttle the butterflies should be open, not
closed.  when you pull on what we think is the accererator, it close the
butterflies, not opens them.

what am I missing?

thanks!

From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Feb 24 22:06:32 2013
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2013 22:06:32 -0700
Subject: [TR] webers
In-Reply-To: <E8E3692D49D9474999D5C4326B8DC6A1@Datsun>
References: <E8E3692D49D9474999D5C4326B8DC6A1@Datsun>
Message-ID: <512AF158.2020304@bradakis.com>

Those plates at the top are the chokes, not the throttle plates you are 
thinking of.


mjb.

From blambert at socal.rr.com  Sun Feb 24 23:20:40 2013
From: blambert at socal.rr.com (D&B Lambert)
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2013 22:20:40 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR6 Door Skin Installation
Message-ID: <D764A22B10024A01B7532E52E4D3547D@Lambert1>

After removing the paint from the drivers door on my 71 TR6 restoration
project I find that door has sustained accident damage some time in it's
past and was apparently repaired by the cheapest, fastest method: plenty of
filler.  No rust on the door, just lots and lots of bondo - about 3/8 of an
inch in places.  Can anyone comment on the difficulty of installing a new
door skin?  The door frame seems to be fine.  I could try to tap out the
dents and shrink the panel back into shape, but my body working skills are
somewhat mediocre. Any been-there-done-that experience in installing new
door skins that anybody can relate?  Door skins are not cheap, but I'm not
wanting to simply re-stuff the door with bondo like some DPO was.

As always, thanks.

Dennis

Orange, CA

From mathews at uga.edu  Mon Feb 25 05:41:58 2013
From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews)
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2013 07:41:58 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 Door Skin Installation
In-Reply-To: <D764A22B10024A01B7532E52E4D3547D@Lambert1>
References: <D764A22B10024A01B7532E52E4D3547D@Lambert1>
Message-ID: <512B5C16.4000706@uga.edu>

Door skins are not that hard to do really, especially after the first 
one. Usually removing the old skns can be more difficult.  If you are 
not going to have the door painted at the time the skins go on  and wilt 
repaint the whole car once the body work has been done, it might not be 
too expensive to take your doors and new skins to a body shop and let 
them do it. If they are the ones that might do the repaint, you should 
get a pretty good deal. A good body guys should be able to re-skin the 
door in a morning easy.

Doug
On 2/25/2013 1:20 AM, D&B Lambert wrote:
> After removing the paint from the drivers door on my 71 TR6 restoration
> project I find that door has sustained accident damage some time in it's
> past and was apparently repaired by the cheapest, fastest method: plenty of
> filler.  No rust on the door, just lots and lots of bondo - about 3/8 of an
> inch in places.  Can anyone comment on the difficulty of installing a new
> door skin?  The door frame seems to be fine.  I could try to tap out the
> dents and shrink the panel back into shape, but my body working skills are
> somewhat mediocre. Any been-there-done-that experience in installing new
> door skins that anybody can relate?  Door skins are not cheap, but I'm not
> wanting to simply re-stuff the door with bondo like some DPO was.

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Tue Feb 26 19:53:12 2013
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2013 21:53:12 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 Seat frame common problems
In-Reply-To: <CANhzkeML3Zg1zfsyCdnANbn1nno4PgspFHvoJQMCREwRmyw1mw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANhzkePUWQMopRqfYRt6H_7MbmYzAnvVZ6C_hWdA6J0Vyhoh_Q@mail.gmail.com>
	<EBDFE41A-AC3A-4BF8-9CE1-6A233786876E@yahoo.com>
	<CANhzkeML3Zg1zfsyCdnANbn1nno4PgspFHvoJQMCREwRmyw1mw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANhzkeOKQJJzckqCD09H6Y-1E7Y=P_fUzRXO6hYDvVb4Yf7ZMg@mail.gmail.com>

The seats are done. I had to reweld two nuts and  weld a frame member.

I paid 45 dollars for foam. I cut it with an electric carving knife. They
are back together and looking good, not great. Based on input from the
list, I left some slack in the foam and in the covering. The sit very good.
Lets hope they last a while.

From ron.landis at kentcountymi.gov  Wed Feb 27 12:28:21 2013
From: ron.landis at kentcountymi.gov (Landis,Ronald)
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2013 19:28:21 +0000
Subject: [TR] Waking a sleeping car
Message-ID: <D4088CDE56B2F246870EA0D47E517AA83758989D@BY2PRD0810MB367.namprd08.prod.outlook.com>

List

A short time ago someone posted a link for a check list to wake a sleeping
car.  I think it came from an MG page, but it had a detailed check list of
what to do to prepare a car that has not been run in years to start etc.  I
printed out and misplaced it.

Whoever posted the link I would appreciate you resending to me off list.

thanks

Ron

From dlhogye at comcast.net  Wed Feb 27 21:26:54 2013
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye)
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2013 04:26:54 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Waking a sleeping car
In-Reply-To: <D4088CDE56B2F246870EA0D47E517AA83758989D@BY2PRD0810MB367.namprd08.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <221148838.1548990.1362025614230.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I recently started a car that had been in storage for at least 12 years. Relatively dry storage in my garage/shop in Santa Cruz, Ca. A 1963 Ford Galaxie 390XL that I bought as my first car in 1979. It didn't start immediately, probably a good thing. I had drained the gas when I parked it, or periodically siphoned it for use in the garden tractor, and ran the carb dry. I put some fresh gas in the tank and primed the carb before cranking it over. Cranked it for a bit, but no fire. Fiddled with the points with the key in the on position. No spark at first followed by good spark. I replaced the cap and it fired right up, just like it had the last time I ran it. It's been running great since then. 
So I'd say put some fresh gas in it disconnect the coil wire, make sure that oil has circulated though the motor, reconnect the coil wire then give it a go. If it doesn't start, check for spark and fuel. 
Good luck, 
Dave H. 

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ronald Landis" <ron.landis at kentcountymi.gov> 
To: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2013 11:28:21 AM 
Subject: [TR] Waking a sleeping car 

List 

A short time ago someone posted a link for a check list to wake a sleeping 
car. I think it came from an MG page, but it had a detailed check list of 
what to do to prepare a car that has not been run in years to start etc. I 
printed out and misplaced it. 

Whoever posted the link I would appreciate you resending to me off list. 

thanks 

Ron 

** triumphs at autox.team.net ** 

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye at comcast.net 

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Thu Feb 28 07:54:43 2013
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2013 07:54:43 -0700
Subject: [TR] Waking a sleeping car
In-Reply-To: <221148838.1548990.1362025614230.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <D4088CDE56B2F246870EA0D47E517AA83758989D@BY2PRD0810MB367.namprd08.prod.outlook.com>
	<221148838.1548990.1362025614230.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bFeQd94joHyLrZUb_iv3FcdaDt=dqLnN67uB1XC-B5ACg@mail.gmail.com>

On Wed, Feb 27, 2013 at 9:26 PM, davehogye <dlhogye at comcast.net> wrote:

> ...So I'd say put some fresh gas in it disconnect the coil wire, make sure
> that oil has circulated though the motor, reconnect the coil wire then give
> it a go....

 At a minimum I'd take the valve cover off and rotate the engine twice to
assure no valves are sticking (old modern fuel sets up like glue).  I'd
also pour fresh oil over the valves & rockers.

Our club does these 'resurrections' from time to time, the record being an
MGA that had sat idle for 31 years...
 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y0cLnCdetxg

We take a few short cuts (e.g do not bother with coolant, feed gas directly
from a can of fresh, etc) but we know the engine is coming out for a
rebuild.  In any case, have a fire extinguisher handy.

Geo

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Feb 28 11:59:05 2013
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2013 18:59:05 +0000
Subject: [TR] Waking a sleeping car
In-Reply-To: <CANzE1bFeQd94joHyLrZUb_iv3FcdaDt=dqLnN67uB1XC-B5ACg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20130228185905.7W66J.112353.root@cdptpa-web01-z01>

---- Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com> wrote: 

>  At a minimum I'd take the valve cover off and rotate the engine twice to
> assure no valves are sticking (old modern fuel sets up like glue).  

When I woke my current "barn find" TR3 from its 33 year nap, I also pulled the rocker cover and shot some oil over the rockers but proceeded to try to start the engine.  Since this is a non-interference engine, a stuck valve would just result in one cylinder not running, no real damage.  And my main interest in leaving off the cover was to make sure the rockers were getting oiled through the shaft.  It did, and there were no bad noises, so I buttoned it back up and drove to TRfest 2009 that way.  Since then, all it has had is new rod bearings (oil pressure got kind of low) and a new head gasket.

A previous TR3 (literally found in a corn field) had apparently had the rear cam bearing installed wrong, so the rockers never got oil through the shaft!  I don't think the previous owner drove it much after the so-called "rebuild", but I drove it at least 3000 miles that way.  Strangely enough, the wear in the rockers and valve guides was extraordinarily bad ...

- Randall

From levilevi at comcast.net  Thu Feb 28 15:40:01 2013
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud R)
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2013 15:40:01 -0700
Subject: [TR] Carroll Shelby Slotted Alloy Wheels
Message-ID: <838383C9-EB91-47A7-A84B-AD0DEE675513@comcast.net>

Thought there might be someone in this group interested in these wheels.

http://denver.craigslist.org/pts/3648642834.html

You get to look here before wading through all the duplicate ads on  
eBay.

Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle
77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)

From terryrs at comcast.net  Thu Feb 28 16:18:56 2013
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2013 23:18:56 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Waking a sleeping car
In-Reply-To: <221148838.1548990.1362025614230.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <2097339949.36240.1362093536104.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>A short time ago someone posted a link for a check list to wake a sleeping 
>car. I think it came from an MG page, but it had a detailed check list of 
>what to do to prepare a car that has not been run in years to start etc. I 
>printed out and misplaced it. 

Well, a number of things come to mind.  

One, of course, is never run the old gas.  Even if it starts, it will varnish everything in sight to some degree.  While you're at it, stick a magnet in the gas tank to see if it collects a pod of rust.

Two, change the oil.  After all that time sitting, oil can get pretty moisture-laden and sludgy.  You'll want the best lubrication possible on initial fire.  Make that ANY fire.  It wouldn't hurt to put a little oil in the top of the cylinders to get immediate lubrication on fire.  While you're at it, check the spark plugs for rust or old fouling.  If anal, pull the head cover and pour oil over the rocker.  If you're going to drive the car, change the oil in the transmission and differential also.  If you have grease points, chip away the rocks that your old grease became, and re-lube all nipples.  Don't forget the drive shaft.  

Three, check the air cleaners.  Clean or replace.  Mice have a habit of roosting in them.  You can chase your tail wondering why the engine doesn't run right, otherwise. 

Four, check the throttle linkage to make sure it hasn't stuck itself over time.  Don't want to race the engine at 9 grand on fire.

Five, do not...do not...do not...trust your brakes.  Anything other than silicone brake fluid absorbs moisture and rots brake lines from the inside out.  You might not even know you had a brake problem until you're stretching your hand out to shake hands with St. Peter.

Six, have a home brew.  Have two.  Softens the blows that are to come.  

Your experience may vary...etc...etc...etc.