From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Mon Apr 1 10:22:18 2013 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net) Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2013 12:22:18 -0400 Subject: [TR] GT6 overdrive shifter length? Message-ID: <380-22013411162218576@M2W125.mail2web.com> Years ago, when I made a shift lever to install on the overdrive conversion for my 70 GT6, I fashioned it after a standard length shift lever. Over the years I discovered that the overdrive lever is really slightly shorter in length than a standard lever. I have tried to find one, but they seem to be made of UN-obtainaium!! I am considering re-making the lever, but would like to get the proper length of the overdrive lever as fitted to the GT6. (yeah I know that the 70 should have a column lever operated OD, But I like the shift lever mounted one better) Anyway, does anyone have a GT6 with shift lever mounted switch, that could measure the lever (from the end of the bend to the knob where it is screwed on as fitted would be fine) I can add the length of the knob to get overall length. In other words, the straight section just after the bend, to where the knob is fitted, (or to the end of the actual lever if the know id not fitted) Thanks! -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web.com  What can On Demand Business Solutions do for you? http://link.mail2web.com/Business/SharePoint From thomasb at queensu.ca Mon Apr 1 12:37:23 2013 From: thomasb at queensu.ca (Brian Thomas) Date: Mon, 1 Apr 2013 18:37:23 +0000 Subject: [TR] 3 point belts in a TR4A Message-ID: Hi guys, When I restored the '67 TR4A in the mid 90's, I wanted to replace the clapped out lap belts with a 3 point setup. At that time not much was available, so I went to a wrecking yard and got a 3 point set out of a Toyota. I even got a good match to my light tan interior. However, these belts do not have inertia reels and consequently wind up closing in door frames, etc. I decided to go with a set of 3 point inertia reel belts offered by TRF for the TR6. Now the belts have arrived, I can't figure out where the inertia reel is supposed to mount. If you have reels with a stock TR6 setup, can you explain where these attach? My TR4A, which is very late (CTC78390L), has factory mounting positions on the floor (2 per side) and the top of the rear wheel wells, so the other attachment points are obvious. Thanks, Brian _______________________________________________________________________ Brian Thomas E-mail: ThomasB at QueensU.Ca Holliday Point Phone: 613-385-1947 Wolfe Island, Ontario Toys: 54 TR2, 56 TR3, 67 TR4A, 01 XKR, 75 John Deere 920 CANADA K0H 2Y0 From soknacki at soknacki.com Mon Apr 1 14:12:16 2013 From: soknacki at soknacki.com (David Soknacki) Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2013 16:12:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 lower outer rear valance panel Message-ID: Fm David Soknacki 74 TR6 CF22072U Hi list! 1. Does anyone know where I can get a TR6 *lower* outer rear valance panel? It's the section from the bumper downwards, as it curves back under the body. 2. In my search for a replacement, the parts suppliers I've checked offer the full outer valance panel. But I was hoping that someone has fabricated just the lower outer panel as a separate part since it is the section usually attacked by rust. 3. By the way, I asked about making the part just by itself, but because of its complex shape, I've been given a quote at about the same cost as a full outer panel. Thanks so much. From fishplate at charter.net Mon Apr 1 19:07:40 2013 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff) Date: Mon, 01 Apr 2013 21:07:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] 3 point belts in a TR4A In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <515A2F5C.7040108@charter.net> On 4/1/2013 2:37 PM, Brian Thomas wrote: > Hi guys, > > Now the belts have arrived, I can't figure out where the inertia reel is > supposed to mount. There's a mount on the inner fender just above the rear shelf. Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Tue Apr 2 01:58:24 2013 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Tue, 02 Apr 2013 03:58:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] panel lights on TR3 In-Reply-To: References: <006701ce2e42$8aff7600$a0fe6200$@verizon.net> Message-ID: <004801ce2f77$da5106c0$8ef31440$@verizon.net> I am now thoroughly flummoxed ... found two relatively new lamp holders and re-did all of the wiring - making sure solder and fittings were tight. Same thing happens. When 5 are in the panel or instruments - all is ok. Plug in the sixth and it flickers. Doesn't matter which location. To make sure I had a good ground I added a ground line from the center panel to both the speedo & tach. (the dash is powder coated). So - out they all came again. On the bench, I hooked up jumpers to all - the same thing happens. Also tried it bypassing the fuse holder. Re-checked all of the holders and none have any broken insulation; the bulbs sit squarely on the connections; Really getting frustrating.... I put them back in and will leave one tach lamp out for now. I need to keep up the forward progress. The other issue now is that the starter just whirs. I took it out sometime ago and got the bendix working but now it seems to be stuck again. Any suggestions so that I don't have to pull that *&^%(*)^ out again. Carl 1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ Tampa, FL -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl-TR Sent: Sunday, March 31, 2013 4:20 PM To: cfmtr3a at verizon.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] panel lights on TR3 It seems that if 5 are connected - all is ok. Plug in the sixth - regardless of location - they start flickering. Followed Michael's suggestion... found one that had a cracked separator between +/-. Without that one in the mix - all is ok. Of course, the spare has been re-used many times and the tines on the backside are completely useless. I'll go digging for another but at least I know the problem. Thanks Michael & Bill for the quick response. Carl -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl TR Sent: Sunday, March 31, 2013 3:04 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] panel lights on TR3 I am pulling my hair. (not out - I need all I have) Installed the 6 panel lamps on the '3 yesterday. Two circuits - one with 4 holders/bulbs for speedo/tach, the other with two holders/bulbs for center panel Bench tested all six at one time - all ok. Problem - one holder/lamp in the center panel pair - when installed causes everything to flicker. I unplug the offending holder/lamp and no flicker. I connect a ground and it is back. Switched out for an older holder/lamp - same thing. Switched the lamps around - same thing. Same location. Not sure it matters but It is the center panel lamp below the turn signal indicator. Any ideas. Carl 1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ Tampa, FL ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Apr 2 05:47:25 2013 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2013 07:47:25 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] 3 point belts in a TR4A Message-ID: <1091.25ea52d2.3e8c1f4d@cs.com> I bought the inertia reel belts from Moss and mounted them using the stock TR6 mounts. The inertia reel mounts on the wheel well just above the parcel shelf and there is a belt guide that mounts higher up directly above the reel. The feeds the belt over the shoulder. The other end of the loop bolts to a weld nut just below and behind the lower rear corner of the door opening. The other part of the belt set bolts to a weld nut in the driveshaft tunnel. I do believe the TR4 has different seatbelt provisions but I am not familiar with the TR4A but if you don't have the weld nuts you can drill holes and use nuts and oversized washers to prevent pull-through which is what I did for the guide loop on my TR6 since the 71 didn't come equipped with inertia reel belts, just the fixed length three point harness. If you can, study the mountings on a TR6 and try to approximate as closely as you can. I'm sure the factory spent quite a bit of time optimizing the seatbelt mountings so it would be wise to ride their coattails. Cheers Dave In a message dated 4/1/2013 1:39:06 PM Central Daylight Time, thomasb at queensu.ca writes: > Hi guys, > > When I restored the '67 TR4A in the mid 90's, I wanted to replace the > clapped > out lap belts with a 3 point setup. At that time not much was available, > so I > went to a wrecking yard and got a 3 point set out of a Toyota. I even got > a > good match to my light tan interior. However, these belts do not have > inertia > reels and consequently wind up closing in door frames, etc. > > I decided to go with a set of 3 point inertia reel belts offered by TRF > for > the TR6. > > Now the belts have arrived, I can't figure out where the inertia reel is > supposed to mount. If you have reels with a stock TR6 setup, can you > explain > where these attach? My TR4A, which is very late (CTC78390L), has factory > mounting positions on the floor (2 per side) and the top of the rear wheel > wells, so the other attachment points are obvious. From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Apr 2 06:12:39 2013 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2013 08:12:39 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] panel lights on TR3 Message-ID: <16ce.57e8dcaf.3e8c2537@cs.com> Boy, all the descriptions sound like there is a current limiting device in there (other than the fuse) but that is just crazy talk. But it sounds like something is overheating with sufficient current but if the current is reduced below the threshold all is well. Do they ALL flash in unison or just one or a few? Your starter problem may be one of the two following things. The TR3 Starters The bendix extends by riding out on some reverse acme threads. It counts on inertia to spin more slowly than the motor to do so. If there is insufficient lubrication (grease) the friction will be greater than the force resulting from the inertia and the bendix will not deploy properly. I had this issue on a 65 MGB and applying grease made it work like new again. The other problem is that your (and my) starter has a rubber coupler in the bendix. If the bond between the rubber and metal parts fails the motor will spin and the rubber/metal interface will slip and the engine will not turn. I have a starter on the shelf in the garage with this special feature. You may need a bendix. Does it spin as if totally unloaded for does it turn as loaded but still will not turn over the engine? Dave In a message dated 4/2/2013 3:08:20 AM Central Daylight Time, cfmtr3a at verizon.net writes: > I am now thoroughly flummoxed ... found two relatively new lamp holders > and > re-did all of the wiring - making sure solder and fittings were tight. > Same > thing happens. When 5 are in the panel or instruments - all is ok. Plug > in > the sixth and it flickers. Doesn't matter which location. To make sure > I > had a good ground I added a ground line from the center panel to both the > speedo &tach. (the dash is powder coated). So - out they all came > again. > On the bench, I hooked up jumpers to all - the same thing happens. Also > tried it bypassing the fuse holder. Re-checked all of the holders and > none > have any broken insulation; the bulbs sit squarely on the connections; > Really getting frustrating.... I put them back in and will leave one > tach > lamp out for now. I need to keep up the forward progress. > > The other issue now is that the starter just whirs. I took it out > sometime > ago and got the bendix working but now it seems to be stuck again. Any > suggestions so that I don't have to pull that *&^%(*)^ out again. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Apr 2 12:25:15 2013 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 2 Apr 2013 18:25:15 +0000 Subject: [TR] panel lights on TR3 In-Reply-To: <004801ce2f77$da5106c0$8ef31440$@verizon.net> Message-ID: <20130402182515.4TGZR.35591.root@cdptpa-web01-z01> ---- Carl TR wrote: > I am now thoroughly flummoxed ... found two relatively new lamp holders and > re-did all of the wiring - making sure solder and fittings were tight. Same > thing happens. When 5 are in the panel or instruments - all is ok. Plug in > the sixth and it flickers. Can you describe the "flicker" a bit more? It almost sounds like you have a mis-wire somewhere that is powering the dash lights through the turn signal flasher or something. > o make sure I > had a good ground I added a ground line from the center panel to both the > speedo & tach. FWIW, I believe there is supposed to be a ground wire there. Single black wire from the clamp on the instrument panel, to ring terminals on the mounting posts for both tach and speedo. > Re-checked all of the holders and none > have any broken insulation; the bulbs sit squarely on the connections; The "arm" that supports the bulb bends slightly when the holder is inserted into the hole. I've had problems several times with it deflecting enough so that the bulb no longer securely contacts the base contact when the holder is inserted in the hole. But that would affect only one lamp, so not likely to be your problem. > The other issue now is that the starter just whirs. I took it out sometime > ago and got the bendix working but now it seems to be stuck again. Any > suggestions so that I don't have to pull that *&^%(*)^ out again. Sometimes the starter doesn't get enough current to move the Bendix. A low battery (run down perhaps from all the light testing?), poor connection (don't forget the ground strap at the LH motor mount) or bad solenoid. I finally got disgusted with all the starter problems I was having, and upgraded to a gear-drive starter in 2001. (Got mine from TRF but lots of sources offer essentially the same unit.) Still works great. > 1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO With that commission number, your starter should not have the bonded rubber drive that Dave M. mentioned. If you have an early starter installed, that might be the problem. The early starter used a smaller pinion gear that will just barely engage with the later (smaller) ring gear. After just a little bit of wear, it slips. One of the things I did to make the starter easier to change was install a Heli-coil in the transmission flange for the upper starter bolt. Not having to mess with that nut makes the job a whole lot easier! I just ran the tap in through the engine flange (where it cut threads that won't hurt anything) and then turned the insert in until it was entirely in the gearbox flange. I'm not sure it would work every time (I run a TR6 gearbox with a thicker flange) but it sure worked a treat for me. Randall From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Apr 3 06:10:12 2013 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2013 08:10:12 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] panel lights on TR3 Message-ID: <3a24a.24061c23.3e8d7623@cs.com> In a message dated 4/2/2013 10:46:27 PM Central Daylight Time, cfmtr3a at verizon.net writes: > >>1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO > > > Randall=With that commission number, your starter should not have the > bonded rubber drive that Dave M. mentioned. If you have an early starter > installed, that might be the problem. The early starter used a smaller pinion > gear that will just barely engage with the later (smaller) ring gear. > After just a little bit of wear, it slips. > > Dave= The other problem is that your (and my) starter has a rubber coupler > in the bendix. > > > > I do not recall a rubber coupler. Without taking it out, is there a way > to tell if I have an early or later starter? Lucas Part number on the box > was 25550 (it was new in box b date stamped July 1968). My bad. I blinked twice this mooning and realized I misread your commission number. I saw the TS and then I saw the 18 and made the connection that your number was close to mine (TS18xxx) so you probably had the same style starter. Please disregard. Although readers with early models may take this to heart. > > > > > Randall=One of the things I did to make the starter easier to change was > install a Heli-coil in the transmission flange for the upper starter bolt. > Not having to mess with that nut makes the job a whole lot easier! I just > ran the tap in through the engine flange (where it cut threads that won't > hurt anything) and then turned the insert in until it was entirely in the > gearbox flange. I'm not sure it would work every time (I run a TR6 gearbox > with a thicker flange) but it sure worked a treat for me. > > Something to think about but maybe not now. > > > > Dave= Your starter problem may be one of the two following things. The > TR3 Starters The bendix extends by riding out on some reverse acme threads. > It counts on inertia to spin more slowly than the motor to do so. If there > is insufficient lubrication (grease) the friction will be greater than the > force resulting from the inertia and the bendix will not deploy properly. > I had this issue on a 65 MGB and applying grease made it work like new > again. > > > > Is it possible to apply grease without taking it out b or should I just > plan on taking on this task this Saturday. It might be obvious if I was > looking at the starter b but where? > > > > Dave= Does it spin as if totally unloaded for does it turn as loaded but > still will not turn over the engine? > > > > It just spins b appears to be no contact with the ring gear. Then I would hope it is a reluctant bendix. I don't see how you can apply grease to it without removing it. That's what I did on my MG many years ago. It might be a bad spot on the ring gear. Try pushing the car in gear to turn the engine a bit and see if that changes anything. Dave From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Apr 3 12:19:52 2013 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2013 18:19:52 +0000 Subject: [TR] panel lights on TR3 In-Reply-To: <002d01ce301d$c914c710$5b3e5530$@verizon.net> Message-ID: <20130403181952.LY87A.49788.root@cdptpa-web01-z01> > First - the problem occurs when the holders/bulbs are completely out of the > car connected to a 12v power source My next step would be to start probing while the "flicker" is happening on the bench. Does the current go up or down when the lights go out? If it goes down, there has to be an intermittent connection somewhere, like perhaps the power lead is broken internally. If it goes up, there must be a short in one of the holders. > I do not recall a rubber coupler. Without taking it out, is there a way to > tell if I have an early or later starter? Lucas Part number on the box was > 25550 (it was new in box - date stamped July 1968). 25550 is the later style starter. Has an exposed shaft some 6" long with a big coil spring at the end. That coil spring provides the cushion effect, in place of the bonded rubber drive used in the earlier starters. The earlier starters also have a cast iron shroud over the pinion gear. In this link, the upper LH starter image is the later type, the upper RH is the earlier type. http://goo.gl/OAVnc (the photos aren't scaled quite the same, the motor section is about the same diameter for both of them) > Is it possible to apply grease without taking it out - or should I just plan > on taking on this task this Saturday. Sounds like you'll be busy on Saturday. > It might be obvious if I was looking > at the starter - but where? Turn the pinion gear with your fingers. One direction it should force the shaft to turn, but the other direction should move the Bendix first. When the Bendix moves, the gear moves closer to the motor (assuming you have the later type starter). If it is at all sticky or the shaft turns easier than the Bendix, then you've got a problem. You can also test it on the bench using a battery and jumper cables to power it, but be certain the starter is securely anchored. It's probably best to use the starter cable from the car to make connection to the post, as otherwise the high current may damage the post. The Bendix should extend the instant you apply power to the starter (while it is trying to jump off the bench and land on your foot). It's also possible the drive has come apart completely, but hopefully that is unlikely. Happened to me during a 2000 mile drive many years ago, and by the time I got home the big spring had exited through the side of the bellhousing, causing a crack that ruined the entire gearbox housing. --- Randall From will.daehler at gmail.com Wed Apr 3 14:09:59 2013 From: will.daehler at gmail.com (Will Daehler) Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2013 16:09:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 Finally tooting my own HORN, Triumph days of MUTE are over. Message-ID: <025101ce30a7$39df99f0$ad9ecdd0$@gmail.com> Last fall I started trouble shooting my TR4 horn circuit to see why I wasn't getting anything more that brief inaudible chip. At that time I did post a request for help, and did get four excellent responses from this list. I investigated and tried all the suggestions, still to no avail. The more I measured voltage drops, resistances and currents, the more it seemed that the OEM circuit design itself was flawed. Just feeble. Pardon my criticism, Sir John Black. A relay was needed! So I lashed up some jumpers and was able to put in a trial relay without cutting any wires in the existing harness. On this first attempt, the horn personality changed. Now instead of one tiny peep, I got a whole series of rapid fire little peeps. Yes, the coil in the relay was chattering. I was close, but gave it some more thought for another month. I sketched up a better way to connect the relay so that there was more complete separation of the coil signal circuit and the contact power circuit. Then I worked on reducing it into the easiest possible implementation, meaning cutting no existing wires, just adding jumpers with the correct crimped connectors. It worked ! Absolutely amazingly loud ....HOOOOOOOT ! A picture right now would help, but here comes a thousand words instead. The OEM circuit has a P (purple wire) and a PB (purple wire with a black strip). At the site of the driver's side horn, I mounted the relay underneath the little sheet metal stand that the horn is mounted to. So its hidden from view. To the extra tab connector on the P side of the horn, I ran a jumper wire to one side of the relay coil. From the other side of the relay coil, I ran a wire through the firewall and underneath the dash. There I found the little three way connection point where the three PB wires meet. I unplugged the one going to the steering column, and connected it to this new wire coming feeding from the relay coil. So here we now had a signal path that when the horn pushbutton in the steering wheel was pushed, this completed the P circuit to ground. The load on the P circuit was the coil. (No blue Lucas smoke). That left how to hook up the power circuit, which was connecting the PB tab on the driver's side horn to the first side of the relay contact, and then another jumper from the other side of the relay contact to ground. When the coil is energized by the signal circuit, the contact closes, and the electricity rushes unimpeded through the horns across the contacts and straight to ground. Elegant. Faithfully submitted, Will Daehler From mark at bradakis.com Wed Apr 3 15:33:23 2013 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2013 15:33:23 -0600 Subject: [TR] The good, the bad, the ?? Message-ID: <515CA023.7020300@bradakis.com> So the annual fund drive is coming up, where I beg for folks to support Team.Net with monetary contributions [ http://www.team.net/donate.html - donate early, donate often ;-) ] But I want to make sure that folks feel they are getting something of value. What do you like about the current Team.Net setup? What would you like to see changed, added, reworked? Comments, complaints, feel free to pontificate. mjb. From mhooper at indiefilmnet.com Wed Apr 3 17:54:00 2013 From: mhooper at indiefilmnet.com (Mark Hooper) Date: Wed, 03 Apr 2013 19:54:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] Goodparts adjustable brackets - question In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <9f95479d.1ce30c6.4443fe90.ce@indiefilmnet.com> I've been considering the adjustable trailing arm brackets sold by Goodparts for my 72 TR6. They should allow me to get things lined up without crazy shimming. During the frame repairs I did about 20 years ago I replaced the rear and bottom sides of the trailing arm frame sections with lengths of 3" angle iron. (I seem to recall shouting at the sky "Rust that you son of a b...!") Anyway, the right side camber is a bit off on one side and the tire seems to be farther out than on the left. I'd thought I might have the body on the frame a bit off, but things seem OK. Thus, the adjustable brackets look like a good idea. Can anybody opine on their experiences with this mod? Do they stay in position? Solidly made etc? Mark Hooper 1972 TR6 From McGaheyRx at aol.com Wed Apr 3 19:40:38 2013 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (Jack Mc) Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2013 21:40:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] Goodparts adjustable brackets - question In-Reply-To: <9f95479d.1ce30c6.4443fe90.ce@indiefilmnet.com> References: <9f95479d.1ce30c6.4443fe90.ce@indiefilmnet.com> Message-ID: <047DBBD1-FBAD-4FD8-9619-51FE72E7D23D@aol.com> They are a great product - well made, absolutely will hold their position - but they are not a substitute for shims behind the brackets for toe adjustment - if you needed those before, you will still need them - the adjustable brackets allow for precise camber adjustment Cheers, Jack Mc Sent from my iPad On Apr 3, 2013, at 7:54 PM, Mark Hooper wrote: > I've been considering the adjustable trailing arm brackets sold by Goodparts > for my 72 TR6. They should allow me to get things lined up without crazy > shimming. During the frame repairs I did about 20 years ago I replaced the > rear and bottom sides of the trailing arm frame sections with lengths of 3" > angle iron. (I seem to recall shouting at the sky "Rust that you son of a > b...!") Anyway, the right side camber is a bit off on one side and the tire > seems to be farther out than on the left. I'd thought I might have the body on > the frame a bit off, but things seem OK. Thus, the adjustable brackets look > like a good idea. > > Can anybody opine on their experiences with this mod? Do they stay in > position? Solidly made etc? > > Mark Hooper > > 1972 TR6 > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mcgaheyrx at aol.com From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Apr 4 06:02:55 2013 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 08:02:55 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] The good, the bad, the ?? Message-ID: <5530c.12170df9.3e8ec5ef@cs.com> I like the consistency. As they say in my neck of the woods, "Don't change nothing." Dave In a message dated 4/3/2013 4:57:15 PM Central Daylight Time, mark at bradakis.com writes: > But I want to make sure that folks feel they are getting something of > value. > > What do you like about the current Team.Net setup? What would you like to > see changed, added, reworked? Comments, complaints, feel free to > pontificate. From thomasb at queensu.ca Thu Apr 4 06:27:39 2013 From: thomasb at queensu.ca (Brian Thomas) Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 12:27:39 +0000 Subject: [TR] 3 point belts in a TR4A In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks to all who responded to my query regarding where the inertia reel mounts. ... and special thanks to Dave who provided a couple of pictures. Cheers, Brian _______________________________________________________________________ Brian Thomas E-mail: ThomasB at QueensU.Ca Holliday Point Phone: 613-385-1947 Wolfe Island, Ontario Toys: 54 TR2, 56 TR3, 67 TR4A, 01 XKR, 75 John Deere 920 CANADA K0H 2Y0 From mmarr at notwires.com Thu Apr 4 07:32:27 2013 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 08:32:27 -0500 Subject: [TR] The good, the bad, the ?? In-Reply-To: <515CA023.7020300@bradakis.com> References: <515CA023.7020300@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <02cd01ce3138$d9dd9470$8d98bd50$@com> I would like to see more puppies and kittens. Mike > > So the annual fund drive is coming up, where I beg for folks to support > Team.Net with monetary contributions [ http://www.team.net/donate.html > - donate early, donate often ;-) ] > > But I want to make sure that folks feel they are getting something of > value. > > What do you like about the current Team.Net setup? What would you like > to see changed, added, reworked? Comments, complaints, feel free to > pontificate. > > mjb. From wbeech at flash.net Thu Apr 4 08:09:28 2013 From: wbeech at flash.net (WBEECH) Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 09:09:28 -0500 Subject: [TR] The good, the bad, the ?? In-Reply-To: <5530c.12170df9.3e8ec5ef@cs.com> References: <5530c.12170df9.3e8ec5ef@cs.com> Message-ID: <86963305-62FF-41E5-9784-538776C0399E@flash.net> The list's email format is perfect for me. My only problem is searching the archives, headers and emails don't alway match up. Sent from mobile Bill On Apr 4, 2013, at 7:02 AM, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: I like the consistency. As they say in my neck of the woods, "Don't change nothing." Dave In a message dated 4/3/2013 4:57:15 PM Central Daylight Time, mark at bradakis.com writes: > But I want to make sure that folks feel they are getting something of > value. > > What do you like about the current Team.Net setup? What would you like to > see changed, added, reworked? Comments, complaints, feel free to > pontificate. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From dave at ranteer.com Thu Apr 4 08:15:04 2013 From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave) Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 09:15:04 -0500 Subject: [TR] The good, the bad, the ?? In-Reply-To: <5530c.12170df9.3e8ec5ef@cs.com> References: <5530c.12170df9.3e8ec5ef@cs.com> Message-ID: <87528BFC8E2041D0999CD6917455926F@Datsun> if it ain't broke . . . . -----Original Message----- From: Dave1massey at cs.com Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2013 7:02 AM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] The good, the bad, the ?? I like the consistency. As they say in my neck of the woods, "Don't change nothing." Dave In a message dated 4/3/2013 4:57:15 PM Central Daylight Time, mark at bradakis.com writes: > But I want to make sure that folks feel they are getting something of > value. > > What do you like about the current Team.Net setup? What would you like to > see changed, added, reworked? Comments, complaints, feel free to > pontificate. From pethier at comcast.net Thu Apr 4 11:46:49 2013 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 17:46:49 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] The good, the bad, the ?? In-Reply-To: <5530c.12170df9.3e8ec5ef@cs.com> Message-ID: <2084071899.145699.1365097609597.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> If it is not broken, do not repair it. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier at comcast.net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica http://www.mnautox.com http://www.mntriumphs.org ----- Original Message ----- > From: Dave1massey at cs.com > To: Triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Thursday, April 4, 2013 7:02:55 AM > Subject: Re: [TR] The good, the bad, the ?? > I like the consistency. As they say in my neck of the woods, "Don't > change > nothing." > > Dave > > In a message dated 4/3/2013 4:57:15 PM Central Daylight Time, > mark at bradakis.com writes: > > But I want to make sure that folks feel they are getting something > > of > > value. > > > > What do you like about the current Team.Net setup? What would you > > like to > > see changed, added, reworked? Comments, complaints, feel free to > > pontificate. > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net From don.hiscock at gmail.com Thu Apr 4 14:16:36 2013 From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 16:16:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] The good, the bad, the ?? In-Reply-To: <2084071899.145699.1365097609597.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <5530c.12170df9.3e8ec5ef@cs.com> <2084071899.145699.1365097609597.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: "If it ain't broke..." So all you guys with gear reduction starters, with aluminum radiators, with thermostatically-controlled electric fans, with five-speed gearbox upgrades, with rear main seal replacements, with radial tires. You all replaced those because the originals were broken? None of those were upgrades because better technology was available? I doubt it. The list is useful. But it's antiquated and almost non-functional in a graphics- and photo-oriented world. I appreciate the dialog and the information -- best in the TR world. But the interface is antediluvian. A modern forum would be much better. Don 1962 TR3B TSF202L On Thu, Apr 4, 2013 at 1:46 PM, wrote: > If it is not broken, do not repair it. > > Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA > 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue > 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch > 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl > 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red > pethier at comcast.net > http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier > http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica > http://www.mnautox.com > http://www.mntriumphs.org > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: Dave1massey at cs.com > > To: Triumphs at autox.team.net > > Sent: Thursday, April 4, 2013 7:02:55 AM > > Subject: Re: [TR] The good, the bad, the ?? > > I like the consistency. As they say in my neck of the woods, "Don't > > change > > nothing." > > > > Dave > > > > In a message dated 4/3/2013 4:57:15 PM Central Daylight Time, > > mark at bradakis.com writes: > > > But I want to make sure that folks feel they are getting something > > > of > > > value. > > > > > > What do you like about the current Team.Net setup? What would you > > > like to > > > see changed, added, reworked? Comments, complaints, feel free to > > > pontificate. > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com From fishplate at charter.net Thu Apr 4 15:53:35 2013 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff) Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2013 17:53:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] The good, the bad, the ?? In-Reply-To: References: <5530c.12170df9.3e8ec5ef@cs.com> <2084071899.145699.1365097609597.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <515DF65F.2030806@charter.net> On 4/4/2013 4:16 PM, Don Hiscock wrote: > The list is useful. But it's antiquated and almost non-functional in a > graphics- and photo-oriented world. I appreciate the dialog and the > information -- best in the TR world. But the interface is antediluvian. A > modern forum would be much better. Yeah. Somebody should do something like this: http://www.team.net/forums/ That'd be better. From terryrs at comcast.net Thu Apr 4 16:22:04 2013 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 22:22:04 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] The good, the bad, the ?? In-Reply-To: <515CA023.7020300@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <913402646.538028.1365114124379.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> >What do you like about the current Team.Net setup? What would you like to >see changed, added, reworked? I'm thinking a recorded log-in with a sultry female voice that pouts out, "Good afternoon, Terry. You are a fine specimen of a man. Every blind woman in the Western World wants you." Terry Smith, '59 TR3A 58667 New Hampshire From dconnitt at fuse.net Thu Apr 4 18:02:16 2013 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 20:02:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] Thoughts on steel vs copper gas lines Message-ID: <4BE2C73AA93148628A8C53337BEB3181@DaveLaptop> List, I can't believe I am getting close to completion on my TR4A finally after 12 years but here I am! One of the things I need to do is run a gas line from the fuel pump to the carbs and the short piece from the fuel pump to the line going back to the tank (about a foot I guess). I am thinking I should use a steel line as it will be less likely to crack. On the other hand, I can remember on the old cars (1920's) that my dad and I restored back in the day (1960's) all the gas lines were copper. I know, they didn't have seat belts either but that's another story. Anyway, steel or copper? I know it will be harder to bend but I think it will be safer. Also, what dia. should I use for the steel vacuum line from the carb to the distributor? I am also considering installing a shut off valve between the pipe from the tank and the fuel pump, (maybe right on the pump) for the long winter nap so gas doesn't leak anywhere. Hoping to receive my wire harness soon, Dave Connitt From dave at ranteer.com Thu Apr 4 18:18:19 2013 From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave) Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 19:18:19 -0500 Subject: [TR] tr3b Message-ID: <4190671562ED41C6855A052E518A2C63@Datsun> hi. I just brought home a tr3b. guy really didnbt know what he had. no rust (really!), decent interior, trunk fine, hasnbt run since? but b bwas running when parkedb donbt you just love it? supposedly still positive ground, no side curtains, lousy paint. 2 questions - they claim itbs a 59? is that possible? TCF 1402 L and there is nothing behind the little dzus covers on the spare tire cover. how do I get it open? thanks! ps b will post pictures later tonight. From Loumetelko at aol.com Thu Apr 4 18:21:11 2013 From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com) Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 20:21:11 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] The good, the bad, the ?? Message-ID: <9f190.33e5a87e.3e8f72f7@aol.com> But the interface is antediluvian. A modern forum would be much better. I will be glad when the pseudo intellectuals leave so that we unwashed can continue enjoying Mark's labors just as they are. Lou Metelko Auburn, Indiana From thenicholls at verizon.net Thu Apr 4 19:06:46 2013 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2013 20:06:46 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] The good, the bad, the ?? Message-ID: <13315753.1041415.1365124006677.JavaMail.root@vms170019> Being able to not have to remember to change to plain text would be a plus, and uploading of pictures would be a double win. Craig 1972 Triumph TR6 Vienna, VA From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Thu Apr 4 19:15:34 2013 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 18:15:34 -0700 Subject: [TR] tr3b In-Reply-To: <4190671562ED41C6855A052E518A2C63@Datsun> References: <4190671562ED41C6855A052E518A2C63@Datsun> Message-ID: Dave - I don't think it can be a 59. You can't really see much when you lift the toilet seat cover on the spare tire lid -- try just sticking the Dzus tool deep in there and see if it engages something. Congrats on your find. Geo On Thu, Apr 4, 2013 at 5:18 PM, Dave wrote: > hi. I just brought home a tr3b. guy really didnb t know what he had. no > rust (really!), decent interior, trunk fine, hasnb t run since? but b > b was running when parkedb donb t you just love it? > > supposedly still positive ground, no side curtains, lousy paint. > > 2 questions - > > they claim itb s a 59? is that possible? TCF 1402 L > > and there is nothing behind the little dzus covers on the spare tire cover. > how do I get it open? From ptegler at verizon.net Thu Apr 4 19:27:09 2013 From: ptegler at verizon.net (ptegler) Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2013 21:27:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] Thoughts on steel vs copper gas lines References: <4BE2C73AA93148628A8C53337BEB3181@DaveLaptop> Message-ID: I'd stick with steel under a car these days. Copper dents way to easy. Hit a couple stones/road slag dent the pipe and it reduces fuel flow. I personally used coated brake lines as fuel lines. I just cut the ends off where I'm using a flex hose, and or screw connections to join stock ends when longer runs are needed. Paul Tegler ptegler at verizon.net www.teglerizer.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave Connitt" To: Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2013 8:02 PM Subject: [TR] Thoughts on steel vs copper gas lines > List, > I can't believe I am getting close to completion on my TR4A finally after > 12 > years but here I am! > One of the things I need to do is run a gas line from the fuel pump to the > carbs and the short piece from the fuel pump to the line going back to the > tank (about a foot I guess). I am thinking I should use a steel line as it > will be less likely to crack. On the other hand, I can remember on the old > cars (1920's) that my dad and I restored back in the day (1960's) all the > gas > lines were copper. I know, they didn't have seat belts either but that's > another story. > Anyway, steel or copper? I know it will be harder to bend but I think it > will > be safer. Also, what dia. should I use for the steel vacuum line from the > carb > to the distributor? > I am also considering installing a shut off valve between the pipe from > the > tank and the fuel pump, (maybe right on the pump) for the long winter nap > so > gas doesn't leak anywhere. > Hoping to receive my wire harness soon, > Dave Connitt > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net From spook01 at comcast.net Thu Apr 4 19:27:32 2013 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2013 20:27:32 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Thoughts_on_steel_vs_copper_gas_lines?= Message-ID: Dunno. The copper ones on my '32 mg and '29 morris are still in fine shape. Just checked the '39 MG TB : both copper fuel lines and the four central oiling lines are original and perfect. Hmmmm......Just dunno.... Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Dave Connitt" To: Subject: [TR] Thoughts on steel vs copper gas lines Date: Thu, Apr 4, 2013 19:02 List, I can't believe I am getting close to completion on my TR4A finally after 12 years but here I am! One of the things I need to do is run a gas line from the fuel pump to the carbs and the short piece from the fuel pump to the line going back to the tank (about a foot I guess). I am thinking I should use a steel line as it will be less likely to crack. On the other hand, I can remember on the old cars (1920's) that my dad and I restored back in the day (1960's) all the gas lines were copper. I know, they didn't have seat belts either but that's another story. Anyway, steel or copper? I know it will be harder to bend but I think it will be safer. Also, what dia. should I use for the steel vacuum line from the carb to the distributor? I am also considering installing a shut off valve between the pipe from the tank and the fuel pump, (maybe right on the pump) for the long winter nap so gas doesn't leak anywhere. Hoping to receive my wire harness soon, Dave Connitt ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From tony at tonydrews.com Thu Apr 4 19:36:13 2013 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2013 20:36:13 -0500 Subject: [TR] The good, the bad, the ?? In-Reply-To: <515DF65F.2030806@charter.net> References: <5530c.12170df9.3e8ec5ef@cs.com> <2084071899.145699.1365097609597.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <515DF65F.2030806@charter.net> Message-ID: I would only use a forum type of site if it would send me e-mails of all new posts and let me reply to the post via e-mail (without having to log into the forum and especially without needing to enter a Captcha to finish a post - one of the forums in my work life works that way and consequently isn't used as much as another forum I'm in which allows e-mail replies). Personally I like the list exactly the way it is. The inability to send attachments is easily dealt with and I'm sure prevents a bunch of people from getting viruses and such. Tony Drews From pethier at comcast.net Thu Apr 4 20:27:14 2013 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2013 02:27:14 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] The good, the bad, the ?? In-Reply-To: <20130405020556.085ED4461B@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <808950033.154225.1365128834031.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> What he said. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier at comcast.net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica http://www.mnautox.com http://www.mntriumphs.org ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Tony Drews" > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Thursday, April 4, 2013 8:36:13 PM > Subject: Re: [TR] The good, the bad, the ?? > I would only use a forum type of site if it would send me e-mails of > all new posts and let me reply to the post via e-mail (without having > to log into the forum and especially without needing to enter a > Captcha to finish a post - one of the forums in my work life works > that way and consequently isn't used as much as another forum I'm in > which allows e-mail replies). > > Personally I like the list exactly the way it is. The inability to > send attachments is easily dealt with and I'm sure prevents a bunch > of people from getting viruses and such. > > Tony Drews > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net From mmarr at notwires.com Thu Apr 4 20:37:44 2013 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 21:37:44 -0500 Subject: [TR] The good, the bad, the ?? In-Reply-To: <20130405020556.92142445AE@autox.team.net> References: <5530c.12170df9.3e8ec5ef@cs.com> <2084071899.145699.1365097609597.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <515DF65F.2030806@charter.net> <20130405020556.92142445AE@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <006a01ce31a6$8dbd5210$a937f630$@com> I was being facetious, of course, when I demanded kittens and puppies. I like it just the way it is. We can always go to Facebook for all the bells, whistles, kittens, puppies and political discourse. Mike > > I would only use a forum type of site if it would send me e-mails of > all new posts and let me reply to the post via e-mail (without having > to log into the forum and especially without needing to enter a Captcha > to finish a post - one of the forums in my work life works that way and > consequently isn't used as much as another forum I'm in which allows e- > mail replies). > > Personally I like the list exactly the way it is. The inability to > send attachments is easily dealt with and I'm sure prevents a bunch of > people from getting viruses and such. > > Tony Drews From zoboherald at aol.com Thu Apr 4 20:41:29 2013 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace) Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 22:41:29 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] tr3b In-Reply-To: <4190671562ED41C6855A052E518A2C63@Datsun> References: <4190671562ED41C6855A052E518A2C63@Datsun> Message-ID: <8CFFFBE35A7137B-2054-10217@webmail-m296.sysops.aol.com> Seeing as all the TSF and TCF cars were built between March and October 1962, a 1959 build date just doesn't seem possible! :) --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us -----Original Message----- From: Dave To: triumphs Sent: Thu, Apr 4, 2013 8:45 pm Subject: [TR] tr3b hi. I just brought home a tr3b....they claim itbs a 59? is that possible? TCF 1402 L From kinderlehrer at comcast.net Thu Apr 4 20:52:47 2013 From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer) Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 19:52:47 -0700 Subject: [TR] tr3b In-Reply-To: <4190671562ED41C6855A052E518A2C63@Datsun> References: <4190671562ED41C6855A052E518A2C63@Datsun> Message-ID: <000001ce31a8$a7c89410$f759bc30$@net> Congrats on your new find. If I were doing it over, I would put a shut off valve at the bottom of the tank. That would allow working on any part of the system without draining the tank. Bob -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2013 5:18 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] tr3b hi. I just brought home a tr3b. guy really didnbt know what he had. no rust (really!), decent interior, trunk fine, hasnbt run since? but b bwas running when parkedb donbt you just love it? supposedly still positive ground, no side curtains, lousy paint. 2 questions - they claim itbs a 59? is that possible? TCF 1402 L and there is nothing behind the little dzus covers on the spare tire cover. how do I get it open? thanks! ps b will post pictures later tonight. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/kinderlehrer at comcast.net From kinderlehrer at comcast.net Thu Apr 4 21:00:09 2013 From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer) Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 20:00:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] The good, the bad, the ?? In-Reply-To: References: <5530c.12170df9.3e8ec5ef@cs.com> <2084071899.145699.1365097609597.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <000101ce31a9$af674da0$0e35e8e0$@net> Nope, pretty much all were because something broke. Don't have much experience with forums, aren't they basically "pull" technology - you have to go there and see what's new? I like this list because it's a "push" technology, if something is new it comes and tells me. Embedded photos/graphics would be nice, but including a link to a photo sharing site is easy enough and keeps the size of the messages small. JMHO, Bob -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Don Hiscock Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2013 1:17 PM To: Triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] The good, the bad, the ?? "If it ain't broke..." So all you guys with gear reduction starters, with aluminum radiators, with thermostatically-controlled electric fans, with five-speed gearbox upgrades, with rear main seal replacements, with radial tires. You all replaced those because the originals were broken? None of those were upgrades because better technology was available? I doubt it. The list is useful. But it's antiquated and almost non-functional in a graphics- and photo-oriented world. I appreciate the dialog and the information -- best in the TR world. But the interface is antediluvian. A modern forum would be much better. Don 1962 TR3B TSF202L On Thu, Apr 4, 2013 at 1:46 PM, wrote: > If it is not broken, do not repair it. > > Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA > 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue > 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch > 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl > 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red > pethier at comcast.net > http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier > http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica > http://www.mnautox.com > http://www.mntriumphs.org > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: Dave1massey at cs.com > > To: Triumphs at autox.team.net > > Sent: Thursday, April 4, 2013 7:02:55 AM > > Subject: Re: [TR] The good, the bad, the ?? > > I like the consistency. As they say in my neck of the woods, "Don't > > change nothing." > > > > Dave > > > > In a message dated 4/3/2013 4:57:15 PM Central Daylight Time, > > mark at bradakis.com writes: > > > But I want to make sure that folks feel they are getting something > > > of value. > > > > > > What do you like about the current Team.Net setup? What would you > > > like to see changed, added, reworked? Comments, complaints, feel > > > free to pontificate. > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/kinderlehrer at comcast.net From rjwilson1250 at gmail.com Thu Apr 4 21:23:26 2013 From: rjwilson1250 at gmail.com (Roger Wilson) Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 20:23:26 -0700 Subject: [TR] tr3b In-Reply-To: <4190671562ED41C6855A052E518A2C63@Datsun> References: <4190671562ED41C6855A052E518A2C63@Datsun> Message-ID: <000901ce31ac$f114a100$d33de300$@com> >From my information TCF 1402 L would be a 1962, manufactured after May when they started installing the 2138cc engine and all-synchro box Roger '60 TR3 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2013 5:18 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] tr3b hi. I just brought home a tr3b. guy really didnbt know what he had. no rust (really!), decent interior, trunk fine, hasnbt run since? but b bwas running when parkedb donbt you just love it? supposedly still positive ground, no side curtains, lousy paint. 2 questions - they claim itbs a 59? is that possible? TCF 1402 L and there is nothing behind the little dzus covers on the spare tire cover. how do I get it open? thanks! ps b will post pictures later tonight. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rjwilson1250 at gmail.com From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Thu Apr 4 21:40:05 2013 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2013 23:40:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] The good, the bad, the ?? In-Reply-To: <000101ce31a9$af674da0$0e35e8e0$@net> References: <5530c.12170df9.3e8ec5ef@cs.com> <2084071899.145699.1365097609597.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <000101ce31a9$af674da0$0e35e8e0$@net> Message-ID: <005701ce31af$433a5fe0$c9af1fa0$@verizon.net> I agree on both points. I belong to several forums for a variety of topics. It is just too time consuming to go out and find nothing of interest or value. The m-list is simple (like the TR) and easy to view, reply, delete. Carl 1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ Tampa, FL -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kinderlehrer Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2013 11:00 PM To: 'Don Hiscock'; 'Triumphs' Subject: Re: [TR] The good, the bad, the ?? Nope, pretty much all were because something broke. Don't have much experience with forums, aren't they basically "pull" technology - you have to go there and see what's new? I like this list because it's a "push" technology, if something is new it comes and tells me. Embedded photos/graphics would be nice, but including a link to a photo sharing site is easy enough and keeps the size of the messages small. JMHO, Bob -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Don Hiscock Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2013 1:17 PM To: Triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] The good, the bad, the ?? "If it ain't broke..." So all you guys with gear reduction starters, with aluminum radiators, with thermostatically-controlled electric fans, with five-speed gearbox upgrades, with rear main seal replacements, with radial tires. You all replaced those because the originals were broken? None of those were upgrades because better technology was available? I doubt it. The list is useful. But it's antiquated and almost non-functional in a graphics- and photo-oriented world. I appreciate the dialog and the information -- best in the TR world. But the interface is antediluvian. A modern forum would be much better. Don 1962 TR3B TSF202L On Thu, Apr 4, 2013 at 1:46 PM, wrote: > If it is not broken, do not repair it. > > Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA > 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue > 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch > 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl > 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red > pethier at comcast.net > http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier > http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica > http://www.mnautox.com > http://www.mntriumphs.org > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: Dave1massey at cs.com > > To: Triumphs at autox.team.net > > Sent: Thursday, April 4, 2013 7:02:55 AM > > Subject: Re: [TR] The good, the bad, the ?? > > I like the consistency. As they say in my neck of the woods, "Don't > > change nothing." > > > > Dave > > > > In a message dated 4/3/2013 4:57:15 PM Central Daylight Time, > > mark at bradakis.com writes: > > > But I want to make sure that folks feel they are getting something > > > of value. > > > > > > What do you like about the current Team.Net setup? What would you > > > like to see changed, added, reworked? Comments, complaints, feel > > > free to pontificate. > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/kinderlehrer at comcast.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net From team.net at Daveola.com Thu Apr 4 22:35:06 2013 From: team.net at Daveola.com (David Ljung Madison) Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2013 21:35:06 -0700 Subject: [TR] The good, the bad, the ?? (Don Hiscock) In-Reply-To: <515DF65F.2030806@charter.net> References: <515DF65F.2030806@charter.net> Message-ID: > Yeah. Somebody should do something like this: > http://www.team.net/forums/ That is fantastic. I really love what Mark has done, but it's time to move to a forum where one can post photos and follow threads easily, I'm glad Mark has implemented this on team.net, but we need to move the entire mailing list population over to the forums for this to work. And we can satisfy the old school folks who want a digest if Mark was able to install something like: http://phpbbservices.com/digests_wp/ Dave ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- Dave Ljung Madison http://GetDave.com/ 415.341.5555 ----- You can have my UNIX when you pry it from my cold, dead fingers ------- From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Apr 5 00:41:31 2013 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2013 23:41:31 -0700 Subject: [TR] The good, the bad, the ?? In-Reply-To: <000101ce31a9$af674da0$0e35e8e0$@net> Message-ID: <79.50.11869.4127E515@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> > Don't > have much experience with forums, aren't they basically > "pull" technology - you have to go there and see what's new? All of the forums that I visit offer some sort of "push" option. Most you can configure to deliver an email with the contents of either the first post in a new thread, or each post in the thread. Some also offer 'digest' mode. The Stag forum even has an email list more-or-less integrated with it. It used to work quite well, but then one admin got tired of it and somehow it was never quite the same under the new admin. Which is one of the things I really like about Mark's lists; they always work the same. Don't have to keep re-learning where the knobs are and what they do. Kind of like the old Chrysler "push button" transmissions, which were great transmissions (for their day) but if you learned to drive with one and then got in a car with a regular PRNDL, you could be left wondering how to push the 'Drive' button. Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Apr 5 01:07:21 2013 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2013 00:07:21 -0700 Subject: [TR] Thoughts on steel vs copper gas lines In-Reply-To: <4BE2C73AA93148628A8C53337BEB3181@DaveLaptop> Message-ID: <5E.70.06772.2287E515@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> > One of the things I need to do is run a gas line from the > fuel pump to the carbs and the short piece from the fuel pump > to the line going back to the tank (about a foot I guess). I > am thinking I should use a steel line as it will be less Steel was original, and what I would be inclined to stick with. One problem with "copper" is that nothing is really made with pure copper. And what alloy you get is important to things like resistance to work hardening (which can lead to cracks) and so on. > Also, what dia. should I use for > the steel vacuum line from the carb to the distributor? The size isn't critical, just whatever works easily with your connections. IIRC the original line on a 4A was about 3/16" od and had push-on fittings. I did use copper there (alloy 122 I think) because I couldn't easily source steel line in the right size for my TR3A (with 1/8" compression fittings) at the time. Now I believe the usual suspects carry it. > I am also considering installing a shut off valve between the > pipe from the tank and the fuel pump, (maybe right on the > pump) for the long winter nap so gas doesn't leak anywhere. That was standard equipment on the early cars, but the valve was mounted to the frame and had a hard connection to the line to the tank (so you could turn the valve off to replace the soft line to the pump). Seems like a great idea to me; not sure if they discontinued it to reduce costs or because the valve they used was more prone to leak than anything else Randall From dave1massey at cs.com Fri Apr 5 06:22:19 2013 From: dave1massey at cs.com (Dave Massey) Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2013 08:22:19 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] The good, the bad, the ?? In-Reply-To: References: <5530c.12170df9.3e8ec5ef@cs.com> <2084071899.145699.1365097609597.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <8D0000F5A290505-16C0-10C28@webmail-d153.sysops.aol.com> My TR3 is still all as it was. That is the whole point of a car that old. If I wanted something more modern I would get a TR6 and install an electric fuel pump, and electric fan, electronic ignition and a gear reduction starter. Actually, I've done all that. The point is there is room in my garage for both and there is room on the internet for both forums and this list. Dave Massey -----Original Message----- From: Don Hiscock "If it ain't broke..." So all you guys with gear reduction starters, with aluminum radiators, with thermostatically-controlled electric fans, with five-speed gearbox upgrades, with rear main seal replacements, with radial tires. You all replaced those because the originals were broken? None of those were upgrades because better technology was available? From l1j1s at aol.com Fri Apr 5 07:40:56 2013 From: l1j1s at aol.com (Lawrence Schwartz) Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2013 09:40:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] : Tr3-b Message-ID: <3DCA957B-4CE0-40F8-8895-A00BC175AC48@aol.com> Hello , my is a 1962 Tr3-b . Comm # is TCF1222LO. Car is very nice and is equipped with a judson supercharger. Car will be for sale in a few weeks. Larry Schwartz. l1j1s at aol.com From aljlthomson at charter.net Fri Apr 5 08:02:46 2013 From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex&Janet Thomson) Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2013 10:02:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] The good, the bad, the ?? In-Reply-To: <515CA023.7020300@bradakis.com> References: <515CA023.7020300@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <002001ce3206$404e50f0$c0eaf2d0$@charter.net> I like the current format. When I need help or suggestions, they show up within a day or less from when I post to the list. Also, I can very quickly decide if other subject areas are something for me to follow or not. It's simple, quick and to the point. Thanks to Mark for his time in running the show. Alex Thomson -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis Sent: Wednesday, April 03, 2013 5:33 PM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] The good, the bad, the ?? So the annual fund drive is coming up, where I beg for folks to support Team.Net with monetary contributions [ http://www.team.net/donate.html - donate early, donate often ;-) ] But I want to make sure that folks feel they are getting something of value. What do you like about the current Team.Net setup? What would you like to see changed, added, reworked? Comments, complaints, feel free to pontificate. mjb. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net From jeremiah at curryclan.net Fri Apr 5 09:14:14 2013 From: jeremiah at curryclan.net (Jeremiah Curry) Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2013 09:14:14 -0600 Subject: [TR] The good, the bad, the ?? Message-ID: <0LngZT-1UpER62fjb-00hnEf@mrelay.perfora.net> I prefer the list format when asking a question and the forum format when searching for something. -----Original Message----- From: "Alex&Janet Thomson" Sent: b4/b5/b2013 8:30 AM To: "'Mark J Bradakis'" ; "'Triumphs'" Subject: Re: [TR] The good, the bad, the ?? I like the current format. When I need help or suggestions, they show up within a day or less from when I post to the list. Also, I can very quickly decide if other subject areas are something for me to follow or not. It's simple, quick and to the point. Thanks to Mark for his time in running the show. Alex Thomson -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis Sent: Wednesday, April 03, 2013 5:33 PM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] The good, the bad, the ?? So the annual fund drive is coming up, where I beg for folks to support Team.Net with monetary contributions [ http://www.team.net/donate.html - donate early, donate often ;-) ] But I want to make sure that folks feel they are getting something of value. What do you like about the current Team.Net setup? What would you like to see changed, added, reworked? Comments, complaints, feel free to pontificate. mjb. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jeremiah at curryclan.net From trmarty at hotmail.com Fri Apr 5 09:44:03 2013 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2013 11:44:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] The good, the bad, the ?? In-Reply-To: References: <515DF65F.2030806@charter.net>, Message-ID: My opinion. List good, forum bad. Our local british car club has had a list going for years. Not gobs of activity but pretty much weekly postings. We tried switching over to a forum last year. The silence on the forum was defining. After a few months we switched back to the list and activity came back. Hard to teach an old dog new tricks I guess. Marty From mhooper at indiefilmnet.com Fri Apr 5 10:17:00 2013 From: mhooper at indiefilmnet.com (Mark Hooper) Date: Fri, 05 Apr 2013 12:17:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] The good, the bad, the ?? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: I understand that experience Marty. I like to see the conversation going on, even if I have nothing to contribute or request at the moment. It's a bit of a virtual club, formed by people with a real common interest. And the occasional off-topics are fun to watch and sometimes participate in. In a forum, I jump in to find some data and then get out. Not a community, just a reference. Mark -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of marty sukey Sent: April-05-13 11:44 AM To: Triumph List Subject: Re: [TR] The good, the bad, the ?? My opinion. List good, forum bad. Our local british car club has had a list going for years. Not gobs of activity but pretty much weekly postings. We tried switching over to a forum last year. The silence on the forum was defining. After a few months we switched back to the list and activity came back. Hard to teach an old dog new tricks I guess. Marty From arakelianp at mossmotors.com Fri Apr 5 10:15:23 2013 From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Pete Arakelian) Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2013 09:15:23 -0700 Subject: [TR] The good, the bad, the ?? Message-ID: <4D4FABA15328FC42B1AA0DEE4673548C0188B8E969C1@DR-EX-04.datacenter.dataresolution.net> I too like the current streaming style of this list. No need to go to a forum, pick a topic, find a thread, etc. Here it all runs along like a stream of consciousness. Plus I learn about things I had not thought of, and have used things I have followed without needing only to use them later. Peter From rpeglow at optonline.net Fri Apr 5 10:25:20 2013 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Fri, 05 Apr 2013 12:25:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] The good, the bad, the ?? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: "If it ain't broke..." Gear Reduction Starter - YES. First - When I acquired my TR6 I had know idea how many "starts" were left on the almost 40 year old starter. Second - Gear Reduction starter sure works well in sub-freezing weather. The original starter is safely stored. Regards, Bob From tr3a.60 at gmail.com Fri Apr 5 10:44:49 2013 From: tr3a.60 at gmail.com (John Wise) Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2013 12:44:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] The good, the bad, the ?? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On 5 Apr, 2013, at 12:17 PM, Mark Hooper wrote: > I understand that experience Marty. I like to see the conversation going on, > even if I have nothing to contribute or request at the moment. It's a bit of a > virtual club, formed by people with a real common interest. And the occasional > off-topics are fun to watch and sometimes participate in. In a forum, I jump > in to find some data and then get out. Not a community, just a reference. I come at this from a strange perspective: a university professor. To me that are two different products from this list: 1) I have problem X, can someone tell me how to fix it, and 2) wow, I never thought about X that way. To me they are both of valuable, but for the most part, I probably learn something weekly from the "I never thought about X that way" and that sometimes helps me avoid a potential problem before it happens. JAW John Wise Ormond Beach, FL 1960 TR3A http://wisegroupllc.org/_/TR3A.html 1977 Porsche 911S ('86 3.2 engine) http://wisegroupllc.org/_/Porsche.html From dctr6 at optonline.net Fri Apr 5 12:35:00 2013 From: dctr6 at optonline.net (Dennis Culligan) Date: Fri, 05 Apr 2013 14:35:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] Windshield from Moss Message-ID: <001b01ce322c$47e6f030$d7b4d090$@net> Folks - I bought a windshield from Moss Motors back in January 2013. It's for my TR6 but it says it also fits TR4, Spits, GT6s, etc. Well, it doesn't fit a TR6. The glass was cut unevenly and the passenger side is too tall. Moss is sending a replacement & it is hoped that it will fit. Just a word of caution. Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U From yellowtr at adelphia.net Fri Apr 5 13:35:27 2013 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Fri, 05 Apr 2013 15:35:27 -0400 Subject: [TR] Windshield from Moss In-Reply-To: <001b01ce322c$47e6f030$d7b4d090$@net> References: <001b01ce322c$47e6f030$d7b4d090$@net> Message-ID: <515F277F.302@adelphia.net> Dennis, To late for you but I got ws glass for both my 4 and 6 from TRF and the fit was perfect. If the 2nd glass is no better you may want to ask for a refund and get your glass from TRF. Bob On 04/05/2013 02:35 PM, Dennis Culligan wrote: > Folks - > > I bought a windshield from Moss Motors back in January 2013. It's for my > TR6 > > but it says it also fits TR4, Spits, GT6s, etc. Well, it doesn't fit a TR6. > The glass was > > cut unevenly and the passenger side is too tall. Moss is sending a > replacement & > > it is hoped that it will fit. Just a word of caution. > > Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Fri Apr 5 18:22:49 2013 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Fri, 05 Apr 2013 19:22:49 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 Starter Message-ID: <19360428.381549.1365207769928.JavaMail.root@vznit170190> I pulled the started this evening - not as difficult as I thought it would be. (pulled carbs and came up through the top rather than below) it is dated July 65 not 68 - not that it matters. On the bench - the starter turns like a champ but there is no movement of the bendix (and no 'launching'). Is it supposed to pull back into the ring or push out. The gear is extended from the starter body my starter: http://s1001.photobucket.com/user/cfmtr3a/media/Information%20Items/Lucas25550BStarter.jpg.html image from web with bendix partially back toward body. http://s1001.photobucket.com/user/cfmtr3a/media/Lucas25550BStarterBendix.jpg.html I tried to move it but nothing... but I am not sure which way and how to turn it. Is that the issue. it is stuck 'out'? Suggestions? Thanks Carl 1961 TR3A - TS81802LO mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a Tampa, Florida On 04/04/13, Randall wrote: > I do not recall a rubber coupler. Without taking it out, is there a way to > tell if I have an early or later starter? Lucas Part number on the box was > 25550 (it was new in box - date stamped July 1968). 25550 is the later style starter. Has an exposed shaft some 6" long with a big coil spring at the end. That coil spring provides the cushion effect, in place of the bonded rubber drive used in the earlier starters. The earlier starters also have a cast iron shroud over the pinion gear. In this link, the upper LH starter image is the later type, the upper RH is the earlier type. http://goo.gl/OAVnc (the photos aren't scaled quite the same, the motor section is about the same diameter for both of them) > Is it possible to apply grease without taking it out - or should I just plan > on taking on this task this Saturday. Sounds like you'll be busy on Saturday. > It might be obvious if I was looking > at the starter - but where? Turn the pinion gear with your fingers. One direction it should force the shaft to turn, but the other direction should move the Bendix first. When the Bendix moves, the gear moves closer to the motor (assuming you have the later type starter). If it is at all sticky or the shaft turns easier than the Bendix, then you've got a problem. You can also test it on the bench using a battery and jumper cables to power it, but be certain the starter is securely anchored. It's probably best to use the starter cable from the car to make connection to the post, as otherwise the high current may damage the post. The Bendix should extend the instant you apply power to the starter (while it is trying to jump off the bench and land on your foot). It's also possible the drive has come apart completely, but hopefully that is unlikely. Happened to me during a 2000 mile drive many years ago, and by the time I got home the big spring had exited through the side of the bellhousing, causing a crack that ruined the entire gearbox housing. --- Randall From glemon at neb.rr.com Fri Apr 5 16:38:21 2013 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2013 17:38:21 -0500 Subject: [TR] The good, the bad, the ?? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I sent this once, but don't think it went through (my mistake, nothing wrong with the list) Mark has stuck with the basic concept and just kept making it work better (Unlike some software service providers who seem to think they need to reinvent the wheel every 18 months, and make us relearn how to do the things we want to do and could do fine on the old system) , I remember when there was a significant and somewhat unrpedictable lag in posts to the list In the past sometimes I would see responses to my question before I saw my question on the list, but it works pretty quickly and consistently now. For those that want forum style they are out there to use, as pointed out Mark has created on, there is the British Car Forum, and others marque specific, and many of my fellow listers use them too, I too like the the "push" technology of the list, the daily "conversation" with my list buddies, who I feel I know and respect, even though I have never met most of them face to face, and I guess I feel it is somewhat appropriate that we soldier along with (ahem) old fashioned e-mail while we soldier along with our old tech but oh so charming LBCs. If you need to send a pic you can do a link, or send a pic direct to the person who needs it, I am fairly new to the triumph list, but have been on the Healey list for quite a while, the lists are a great resource. Greg Lemon TR250 From dixie4.wales at virgin.net Fri Apr 5 15:02:35 2013 From: dixie4.wales at virgin.net (Dixie4) Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2013 22:02:35 +0100 Subject: [TR] The good, the bad, the ?? In-Reply-To: <20130405020605.0062A4461C@autox.team.net> References: <5530c.12170df9.3e8ec5ef@cs.com><2084071899.145699.1365097609597.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net><515DF65F.2030806@charter.net> <20130405020605.0062A4461C@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <4B8A4101B0A1424A90E5F95240D1CD5F@AdrianPC> My sentiments exactly. Adrian !966 TR4A CT64306 O Wales UK. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" To: Sent: Friday, April 05, 2013 2:36 AM Subject: Re: [TR] The good, the bad, the ?? >I would only use a forum type of site if it would send me e-mails of all >new posts and let me reply to the post via e-mail (without having to log >into the forum and especially without needing to enter a Captcha to finish >a post - one of the forums in my work life works that way and consequently >isn't used as much as another forum I'm in which allows e-mail replies). > > Personally I like the list exactly the way it is. The inability to send > attachments is easily dealt with and I'm sure prevents a bunch of people > from getting viruses and such. > > Tony Drews > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dixie4.wales at virgin.net > > > ----- > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 2013.0.3272 / Virus Database: 3162/6226 - Release Date: 04/05/13 From tony at tonydrews.com Sat Apr 6 09:16:01 2013 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sat, 06 Apr 2013 10:16:01 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Starter In-Reply-To: <19360428.381549.1365207769928.JavaMail.root@vznit170190> References: <19360428.381549.1365207769928.JavaMail.root@vznit170190> Message-ID: It appears to be in the proper position. With the shaft sticking out the right side of the motor (as you have it in the picture), if you try to move the top of the gear toward you (anti-clockwise if you're looking at the motor with the shaft extended toward yourself)), the gear should move down the shaft toward the starter motor before it turns the shaft. You should be able to push the gear toward the motor and have it slide down the shaft while turning a bit pretty easily. Tony D At 07:22 PM 4/5/2013, Carl TR wrote: >I pulled the started this evening - not as difficult as I thought it >would be. (pulled carbs and came up through the top rather than below) >it is dated July 65 not 68 - not that it matters. > >On the bench - the starter turns like a champ but there is no >movement of the bendix (and no 'launching'). Is it supposed to pull >back into the ring or push out. The gear is extended from the starter body > >my starter: >http://s1001.photobucket.com/user/cfmtr3a/media/Information%20Items/Lucas25550BStarter.jpg.html > >image from web with bendix partially back toward body. >http://s1001.photobucket.com/user/cfmtr3a/media/Lucas25550BStarterBendix.jpg.html > >I tried to move it but nothing... but I am not sure which way and >how to turn it. >Is that the issue. it is stuck 'out'? Suggestions? > >Thanks > >Carl >1961 TR3A - TS81802LO >mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a >Tampa, Florida > > >On 04/04/13, Randall >wrote: > > > I do not recall a rubber coupler. Without taking it out, is there a way to > > tell if I have an early or later starter? Lucas Part number on the box was > > 25550 (it was new in box - date stamped July 1968). > >25550 is the later style starter. Has an exposed shaft some 6" long >with a big coil spring at the end. That coil spring provides the >cushion effect, in place of the bonded rubber drive used in the >earlier starters. The earlier starters also have a cast iron shroud >over the pinion gear. In this link, the upper LH starter image is >the later type, the upper RH is the earlier type. >http://goo.gl/OAVnc >(the photos aren't scaled quite the same, the motor section is about >the same diameter for both of them) > > > Is it possible to apply grease without taking it out - or should > I just plan > > on taking on this task this Saturday. > >Sounds like you'll be busy on Saturday. > > > It might be obvious if I was looking > > at the starter - but where? > >Turn the pinion gear with your fingers. One direction it should >force the shaft to turn, but the other direction should move the >Bendix first. When the Bendix moves, the gear moves closer to the >motor (assuming you have the later type starter). If it is at all >sticky or the shaft turns easier than the Bendix, then you've got a problem. > >You can also test it on the bench using a battery and jumper cables >to power it, but be certain the starter is securely anchored. It's >probably best to use the starter cable from the car to make >connection to the post, as otherwise the high current may damage the >post. The Bendix should extend the instant you apply power to the >starter (while it is trying to jump off the bench and land on your foot). > >It's also possible the drive has come apart completely, but >hopefully that is unlikely. Happened to me during a 2000 mile drive >many years ago, and by the time I got home the big spring had exited >through the side of the bellhousing, causing a crack that ruined the >entire gearbox housing. > >--- Randall > >** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com From dave at ranteer.com Sat Apr 6 13:50:07 2013 From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave) Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2013 14:50:07 -0500 Subject: [TR] tr3b In-Reply-To: <000901ce31ac$f114a100$d33de300$@com> References: <4190671562ED41C6855A052E518A2C63@Datsun> <000901ce31ac$f114a100$d33de300$@com> Message-ID: <54A7DF523F3C40FA8EE78594C02375C1@Datsun> now it makes sense. the vin tag http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr3b/DSCN7198.JPG clearly says 59! funny. for those of you who want to see it, http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr3b/ no sidecurtains. oh, well. From wbeech at flash.net Sat Apr 6 14:28:11 2013 From: wbeech at flash.net (WBEECH) Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2013 15:28:11 -0500 Subject: [TR] tr3b In-Reply-To: <54A7DF523F3C40FA8EE78594C02375C1@Datsun> References: <4190671562ED41C6855A052E518A2C63@Datsun> <000901ce31ac$f114a100$d33de300$@com> <54A7DF523F3C40FA8EE78594C02375C1@Datsun> Message-ID: <7ADA8126-B9CA-4005-B3B1-9272A1C18E5D@flash.net> Dave , How did you manage to get 1959 plates for a 1962 car? Looks like a fun project. Sent from mobile Bill On Apr 6, 2013, at 2:50 PM, "Dave" wrote: now it makes sense. the vin tag http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr3b/DSCN7198.JPG clearly says 59! funny. for those of you who want to see it, http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr3b/ no sidecurtains. oh, well. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From wbeech at flash.net Sat Apr 6 14:33:16 2013 From: wbeech at flash.net (WBEECH) Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2013 15:33:16 -0500 Subject: [TR] tr3b In-Reply-To: <54A7DF523F3C40FA8EE78594C02375C1@Datsun> References: <4190671562ED41C6855A052E518A2C63@Datsun> <000901ce31ac$f114a100$d33de300$@com> <54A7DF523F3C40FA8EE78594C02375C1@Datsun> Message-ID: <208564A8-709A-4825-8AD4-E6CE6A49CEA1@flash.net> That car is a dead ringer for Tarbaby when I brought him home six years ago. Looks like you have a good base for a fine restoration. Bill Sent from mobile Bill On Apr 6, 2013, at 2:50 PM, "Dave" wrote: now it makes sense. the vin tag http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr3b/DSCN7198.JPG clearly says 59! funny. for those of you who want to see it, http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr3b/ no sidecurtains. oh, well. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From terryrs at comcast.net Sat Apr 6 15:25:45 2013 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2013 21:25:45 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] tr3b In-Reply-To: <54A7DF523F3C40FA8EE78594C02375C1@Datsun> Message-ID: <484766113.600108.1365283545418.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> You do have an appreciably better car to start from than the usual, it seems. Question to the list: Weren't the original engines painted black with, I forget, some kind of number 3 or something painted in a different color underneath? Anyway, does the color of the engine paint suggest it's been rebuilt at one point? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire...Where I drove twice to work and back, and on the way home Friday, the top was down! From dave at ranteer.com Sat Apr 6 16:15:36 2013 From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave) Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2013 18:15:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] tr3b In-Reply-To: <7ADA8126-B9CA-4005-B3B1-9272A1C18E5D@flash.net> References: <4190671562ED41C6855A052E518A2C63@Datsun> <000901ce31ac$f114a100$d33de300$@com> <54A7DF523F3C40FA8EE78594C02375C1@Datsun> <7ADA8126-B9CA-4005-B3B1-9272A1C18E5D@flash.net> Message-ID: <846BADE0DC414CDCA91F150A7E697879@Datsun> they believed it was a 59, so they got 59 plates. and this all happened years ago. -----Original Message----- From: WBEECH Sent: Saturday, April 06, 2013 4:28 PM To: Dave Cc: Subject: Re: [TR] tr3b Dave , How did you manage to get 1959 plates for a 1962 car? Looks like a fun project. From dave at ranteer.com Sat Apr 6 16:16:43 2013 From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave) Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2013 18:16:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] tr3b In-Reply-To: <484766113.600108.1365283545418.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <484766113.600108.1365283545418.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <6995E27F031C456C8C7ACFBE5B8068D8@Datsun> thanks, I think, for pointing that out. that car has obviously been restored. and, most unfortunately, they painted the engine red. perhaps they thought it was roses . . . -----Original Message----- From: terryrs at comcast.net Sent: Saturday, April 06, 2013 5:25 PM To: Dave Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] tr3b You do have an appreciably better car to start from than the usual, it seems. Question to the list: Weren't the original engines painted black with, I forget, some kind of number 3 or something painted in a different color underneath? Anyway, does the color of the engine paint suggest it's been rebuilt at one point? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire...Where I drove twice to work and back, and on the way home Friday, the top was down! From zoboherald at aol.com Sat Apr 6 17:28:58 2013 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace) Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2013 19:28:58 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] tr3b In-Reply-To: <6995E27F031C456C8C7ACFBE5B8068D8@Datsun> References: <484766113.600108.1365283545418.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <6995E27F031C456C8C7ACFBE5B8068D8@Datsun> Message-ID: <8D00135A5937A95-17E4-1BD96@Webmail-m122.sysops.aol.com> I knew of one pretty original TR3B out of Long Island whose long-time owner swore the red engine was as originally delivered. I've heard other instances of this as well, so who knows? As for the "1959" on the commission number plate, I think that simply indicated the year that that particular Corporation was formed (possibly having something to do with the end of the agreement to build Ferguson tractors or something like that? I know I've seen references buried somewhere in one of the Triumph history books). Nice looking 3B regardless! --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us -----Original Message----- From: Dave thanks, I think, for pointing that out. that car has obviously been restored. and, most unfortunately, they painted the engine red. perhaps they thought it was roses . . . From peterara at msn.com Sat Apr 6 19:24:43 2013 From: peterara at msn.com (Peter Arakelian) Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2013 18:24:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] windshiedl from Moss Message-ID: Sorry, but I have to... I have had two windshields from off the shelf put into my TR6. One last summer. Fit was perfect. Installed by glass shop in about 20 minutes. I'm not saying things don't get screwed up, but... Does or did the windshield have a manufacturer's part number label on it? Peter Arakelian - '71 TR6, Daily Driver From dconnitt at fuse.net Sat Apr 6 20:56:03 2013 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2013 22:56:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] location of radiator overflow bottle in TR4A Message-ID: List, Can anyone tel me where the radiator overflow bottle bolts on for a TR4A? It's been many years since I removed it and for the life of me, I can't remember where this goes. I have tried to match up the bracket and the closest place I can see is either on the passenger front side radiator mount but the angle of the bracket is off a bit. Thanks, Dave Connitt '67 TR4A IRS http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a Just got a set of Miata seats! From guy at genfiniti.com Sat Apr 6 21:13:41 2013 From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins) Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2013 22:13:41 -0500 Subject: [TR] location of radiator overflow bottle in TR4A In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <40AF1371-714E-4BCF-8FE9-0832A6FAE2CB@genfiniti.com> Dave, The bracket mounts under the right-side foot of the radiator. On Apr 6, 2013, at 9:56 PM, Dave Connitt wrote: > List, > Can anyone tel me where the radiator overflow bottle bolts on for a TR4A? > It's been many years since I removed it and for the life of me, I can't > remember where this goes. I have tried to match up the bracket and the closest > place I can see is either on the passenger front side radiator mount but the > angle of the bracket is off a bit. > Thanks, > Dave Connitt > '67 TR4A IRS > http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a > > Just got a set of Miata seats! > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/guy at genfiniti.com From dconnitt at fuse.net Sun Apr 7 06:49:42 2013 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2013 08:49:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] location of radiator overflow bottle in TR4A In-Reply-To: References: <40AF1371-714E-4BCF-8FE9-0832A6FAE2CB@genfiniti.com> Message-ID: <77A8E76E01934931B082915A5553D0A6@DaveLaptop> Thanks Adrian, I was telling Guy yesturday that I didn't think of "under" the radiator on that bracket.. My oldest grand daughter was about 3 when I bought the car, now she is 15-1/2 and wanting to know when I will have it done :).. Today I hope to finish installing the transmission tunnel. (Wish that was done). Dave Connitt '67 TR4A Cincinnati, Ohio USA ----- Original Message ----- From: ADRIAN DIX-DYER To: G.D. Huggins Cc: Dave Connitt ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, April 07, 2013 6:40 AM Subject: Re: [TR] location of radiator overflow bottle in TR4A Yes Guy is quite right the bracket mounts on the drivers side of the radiator in UK passenger side in US. Adrian TR4A CT64396 O Wales UK. On 7 April 2013 04:13, G.D. Huggins wrote: Dave, The bracket mounts under the right-side foot of the radiator. On Apr 6, 2013, at 9:56 PM, Dave Connitt wrote: > List, > Can anyone tel me where the radiator overflow bottle bolts on for a TR4A? > It's been many years since I removed it and for the life of me, I can't > remember where this goes. I have tried to match up the bracket and the closest > place I can see is either on the passenger front side radiator mount but the > angle of the bracket is off a bit. > Thanks, > Dave Connitt > '67 TR4A IRS > http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a > > Just got a set of Miata seats! > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/guy at genfiniti.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dixie4.wales at virgin.net From dconnitt at fuse.net Sun Apr 7 07:40:40 2013 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2013 09:40:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] Routing path for Speedo cable on TR4A Message-ID: <27E422DF4B774A51A441DF20CCE1D2BA@DaveLaptop> List, I have another routing question. Last night when I was getting things ready to mount the transmission tunnel, I noticed the speedometer drive fitting on the transmission and thought it would be smart to run that cable before I installed the transmission tunnel. Can anyone help me with that? I am thinking it comes up the inside of the tunnel and then double backs into one of the holes in the firewall. Also, looking at the firewall, driver side from the engine compartment I have three holes that are about 3/4-1 inch in diameter. I think the windshield wiper wires go in the right hand one, tach cable in the center one and the speedometer cable in the left? Is that correct? Thanks, Dave Connitt '67 TR4A IRS http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a From dconnitt at fuse.net Sun Apr 7 08:19:31 2013 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2013 10:19:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] Routing path for Speedo cable on TR4A In-Reply-To: References: <27E422DF4B774A51A441DF20CCE1D2BA@DaveLaptop> Message-ID: <753701BF862649FBA3800116E5091553@DaveLaptop> Thanks George.. George Hahn brought up a good point.. I don't have a overdrive. Dave Connitt ----- Original Message ----- From: Geo Hahn To: Dave Connitt Sent: Sunday, April 07, 2013 10:02 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Routing path for Speedo cable on TR4A Dave - You probably want to mention if you have an overdrive gearbox and if you do, whether or not you are using an angle drive (short cable) or no angle drive (long cable). Geo On Sun, Apr 7, 2013 at 6:40 AM, Dave Connitt wrote: List, I have another routing question. Last night when I was getting things ready to mount the transmission tunnel, I noticed the speedometer drive fitting on the transmission and thought it would be smart to run that cable before I installed the transmission tunnel. Can anyone help me with that? I am thinking it comes up the inside of the tunnel and then double backs into one of the holes in the firewall. Also, looking at the firewall, driver side from the engine compartment I have three holes that are about 3/4-1 inch in diameter. I think the windshield wiper wires go in the right hand one, tach cable in the center one and the speedometer cable in the left? Is that correct? Thanks, Dave Connitt '67 TR4A IRS http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sun Apr 7 11:19:44 2013 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sun, 07 Apr 2013 13:19:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] tr3b In-Reply-To: <484766113.600108.1365283545418.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <54A7DF523F3C40FA8EE78594C02375C1@Datsun> <484766113.600108.1365283545418.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <002101ce33b4$1935f720$4ba1e560$@verizon.net> Not from a 3B but a very late 3A... Markings as original: http://s1001.photobucket.com/user/cfmtr3a/media/TS81802LO/00-EngineMarkings. jpg.html I masked off the lettering when I painted the engine and then repainted them trying somewhat successfully to match the brush strokes. http://s1001.photobucket.com/user/cfmtr3a/media/TS81802LO/05-EngineRe-marked .jpg.html I have seen one other '3 engine painted red. According to the owner it had a different numbering code that indicated it was factory rebuilt. I can't remember for sure what was different about the engine number. Carl 1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ Tampa, FL -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of terryrs at comcast.net Sent: Saturday, April 06, 2013 5:26 PM To: Dave Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] tr3b You do have an appreciably better car to start from than the usual, it seems. Question to the list: Weren't the original engines painted black with, I forget, some kind of number 3 or something painted in a different color underneath? Anyway, does the color of the engine paint suggest it's been rebuilt at one point? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire...Where I drove twice to work and back, and on the way home Friday, the top was down! ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sun Apr 7 11:35:04 2013 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sun, 07 Apr 2013 13:35:04 -0400 Subject: [TR] Routing path for Speedo cable on TR4A References: <27E422DF4B774A51A441DF20CCE1D2BA@DaveLaptop> <753701BF862649FBA3800116E5091553@DaveLaptop> Message-ID: <002801ce33b6$3dcafa20$b960ee60$@verizon.net> Duh = tr4a not tr3... but I believe they are very similar. Tach & temp gauge low - speedo up near brake cylinders. C -----Original Message----- From: Carl TR [mailto:cfmtr3a at verizon.net] Sent: Sunday, April 07, 2013 1:33 PM To: 'Dave Connitt'; 'triumphs at autox.team.net'; 'Geo Hahn' Subject: RE: [TR] Routing path for Speedo cable on TR4A Offering kudos to one of our own.... TeriAnn Wakeman has a diagram of the bulkhead(firewall) holes http://www.tr3a.info/Bulkhead.htm (You have been quiet TeriAnn... out taking photos of the beautiful mountains?) Carl 1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ Tampa, FL -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Connitt Sent: Sunday, April 07, 2013 10:20 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; Geo Hahn Subject: Re: [TR] Routing path for Speedo cable on TR4A Thanks George.. George Hahn brought up a good point.. I don't have a overdrive. Dave Connitt ----- Original Message ----- From: Geo Hahn To: Dave Connitt Sent: Sunday, April 07, 2013 10:02 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Routing path for Speedo cable on TR4A Dave - You probably want to mention if you have an overdrive gearbox and if you do, whether or not you are using an angle drive (short cable) or no angle drive (long cable). Geo On Sun, Apr 7, 2013 at 6:40 AM, Dave Connitt wrote: List, I have another routing question. Last night when I was getting things ready to mount the transmission tunnel, I noticed the speedometer drive fitting on the transmission and thought it would be smart to run that cable before I installed the transmission tunnel. Can anyone help me with that? I am thinking it comes up the inside of the tunnel and then double backs into one of the holes in the firewall. Also, looking at the firewall, driver side from the engine compartment I have three holes that are about 3/4-1 inch in diameter. I think the windshield wiper wires go in the right hand one, tach cable in the center one and the speedometer cable in the left? Is that correct? Thanks, Dave Connitt '67 TR4A IRS http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net From dctr6 at optonline.net Sun Apr 7 12:16:50 2013 From: dctr6 at optonline.net (Dennis Culligan) Date: Sun, 07 Apr 2013 14:16:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] Windshield from Moss Message-ID: <000001ce33bc$13153bf0$393fb3d0$@net> "Peter Arakelian" wrote: >snip >Does or did the windshield have a manufacturer's part number label on it? Peter - I don't know - I delivered the windshield in the box to the Restoration shop. They started to install it and then noted that it would not fit. They took pictures of the old windshield laid over the new one to send to Moss and the difference was obvious. Moss even said they did NOT want it back - they are sending another. Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U From thenicholls at verizon.net Sun Apr 7 12:23:55 2013 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Sun, 07 Apr 2013 13:23:55 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Windshield from Moss Message-ID: <9063905.842655.1365359035429.JavaMail.root@vms170015> If it make you feel any better, I purchased an original XXX from NOS liquidators for installation in my 1972 TR6, it was broken in the process of the install and had to buy one from Moss. If it was me, I would buy from TRF. Craig 1972 Triumph TR6 Vienna, VA On 04/07/13, Dennis Culligan wrote: "Peter Arakelian" wrote: >snip >Does or did the windshield have a manufacturer's part number label on it? Peter - I don't know - I delivered the windshield in the box to the Restoration shop. They started to install it and then noted that it would not fit. They took pictures of the old windshield laid over the new one to send to Moss and the difference was obvious. Moss even said they did NOT want it back - they are sending another. Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.n From davgil at aol.com Sun Apr 7 12:58:02 2013 From: davgil at aol.com (davgil at aol.com) Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2013 14:58:02 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] List structure Message-ID: <8D001D8F6AE8F83-AA8-2215F@webmail-m139.sysops.aol.com> I am a digest member who has been a list lurker and very occasional poster for approximately 15 years. I can say that I would not change the format. I read the list posts for the same reason that I occasionally stroll through home centers. I like to find solutions to problems that I don't yet have. Forums just don't give that same broad view of Triumph ownership. Just my $.02. David Gill 1976 TR6 From coefront at shaw.ca Sun Apr 7 19:49:00 2013 From: coefront at shaw.ca (Mike Coe) Date: Sun, 7 Apr 2013 19:49:00 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR4A Message-ID: <5FB14126708B43A19EAEC650E12141D9@OwnerHP> For sale. 1967 TR4A. British Racing Green. Pirellibs. AM/FM, New Battery. World Hub Caps. 13,444 miles. All receipts. located in Calgary. This is a really nice model that just requires tlc $16,000 OBO. Mike. 403-281-0363. coefront at shaw.ca From mark at bradakis.com Sun Apr 7 20:16:36 2013 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sun, 07 Apr 2013 20:16:36 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR4A In-Reply-To: <5FB14126708B43A19EAEC650E12141D9@OwnerHP> References: <5FB14126708B43A19EAEC650E12141D9@OwnerHP> Message-ID: <51622884.60904@bradakis.com> One of these days I'd like to get another 4A, IRS or not. But first I need to get rid of several projects I already have on hand. mjb. From allenhess at mgcarclub.com Mon Apr 8 07:29:10 2013 From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess) Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2013 09:29:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] The good, the bad, the ?? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: These are the reasons that I prefer the list too. There's a wealth of information, answers to problems that I have not had yet, that comes to me with little time or effort on my part. A quick scan of the digest, and I save useful info to a simple database for future use. Allen On Apr 5, 2013, at 2:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > I too like the current streaming style of this list. No need to go > to a > forum, pick a topic, find a thread, etc. Here it all runs along > like a stream > of consciousness. Plus I learn about things I had not thought of, > and have > used things I have followed without needing only to use them later. > Peter > I come at this from a strange perspective: a university professor. > To me that > are two different products from this list: 1) I have problem X, can > someone > tell me how to fix it, and 2) wow, I never thought about X that way. > > To me they are both of valuable, but for the most part, I probably > learn > something weekly from the "I never thought about X that way" and that > sometimes helps me avoid a potential problem before it happens. > > JAW > > John Wise From auprichard at uprichard.net Mon Apr 8 08:11:21 2013 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2013 10:11:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 negative camber vertical links Message-ID: <002901ce3462$f3b2e530$db18af90$@uprichard.net> List: When I rebuilt my first TR3, I installed negative camber vertical links, available from Moss at the time. The car handled beautifully and I had hoped to do the same with the next candidate. Unfortunately I cannot find any. Does anyone know where I can get a pair? Andrew Uprichard From auprichard at uprichard.net Mon Apr 8 08:33:29 2013 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2013 10:33:29 -0400 Subject: [TR] H6 or HS6? Message-ID: <005501ce3466$0ab27860$20176920$@uprichard.net> I should know this, but does the stamp AUG878F imply H6 or HS6? Thanks! Andrew Uprichard From wbeech at flash.net Mon Apr 8 08:59:29 2013 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2013 09:59:29 -0500 Subject: [TR] H6 or HS6? In-Reply-To: <005501ce3466$0ab27860$20176920$@uprichard.net> References: <005501ce3466$0ab27860$20176920$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: That would be the H6, Front Carb, the style used on late TR3A-B & Early TR4 cars. Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby" '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab) www.triumphowners.com/1566 '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" "Even if you are on the right track, you'll get run over if you just sit there" Will Rodgers -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard Sent: Monday, April 08, 2013 9:33 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] H6 or HS6? I should know this, but does the stamp AUG878F imply H6 or HS6? Thanks! Andrew Uprichard ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From wbeech at flash.net Mon Apr 8 09:32:57 2013 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2013 10:32:57 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 negative camber vertical links In-Reply-To: <002901ce3462$f3b2e530$db18af90$@uprichard.net> References: <002901ce3462$f3b2e530$db18af90$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: ISTR that using the vertical link from an early TR4 achived this. Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard Sent: Monday, April 08, 2013 9:11 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR3 negative camber vertical links List: When I rebuilt my first TR3, I installed negative camber vertical links, available from Moss at the time. The car handled beautifully and I had hoped to do the same with the next candidate. Unfortunately I cannot find any. Does anyone know where I can get a pair? Andrew Uprichard ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Mon Apr 8 09:52:21 2013 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2013 08:52:21 -0700 Subject: [TR] H6 or HS6? In-Reply-To: <005501ce3466$0ab27860$20176920$@uprichard.net> References: <005501ce3466$0ab27860$20176920$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: On Mon, Apr 8, 2013 at 7:33 AM, Andrew Uprichard wrote: > I should know this, but does the stamp AUG878F imply H6 or HS6? And I think that should be AU*C*. Geo From deruiterville at hotmail.com Mon Apr 8 12:16:09 2013 From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter) Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2013 13:16:09 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 negative camber vertical links In-Reply-To: <002901ce3462$f3b2e530$db18af90$@uprichard.net> References: <002901ce3462$f3b2e530$db18af90$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: Andrew- Moss Europe still shows the negative camber links available, pn TT3003. Regards Randy >> > When I rebuilt my first TR3, I installed negative camber vertical links, > available from Moss at the time. The car handled beautifully and I had > hoped to do the same with the next candidate. Unfortunately I cannot find > any. Does anyone know where I can get a pair? From davis.heglund at honeywell.com Mon Apr 8 12:19:26 2013 From: davis.heglund at honeywell.com (Heglund, Davis (ETS-Elec)) Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2013 18:19:26 +0000 Subject: [TR] The Good, the Bad... Message-ID: <59FAAE141E8C66478A1B8D025DA0E0151CFBB367@de08ex3004.global.ds.honeywell.com> This may not be a democracy, but, I vote to leave the list as is. Never had any issues opening up links to files I was interested in. I like being able to scan the subject list for interesting topics, then continuing on to the text, or deleting as desired. I don't post very often, but since I donated (a little) to Mark's Guiness fund, felt I could cast a vote with a clear conscience. Dave Heglund '69 GT6 (somewhere in my garage) From Loumetelko at aol.com Mon Apr 8 12:33:45 2013 From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com) Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2013 14:33:45 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] H6 or HS6? Message-ID: <9d28d.37f3b414.3e946789@aol.com> I should know this, but does the stamp AUG878F imply H6 or HS6? Thanks! Andrew Uprichard Visually there is much difference between the H6 and the HS6. The H6 was used on all of the side screen cars as well the early versions of the TR4. Later 4s and early 4As had the Stromberg CD-175. With the introduction of the 4A came the longer and slightly curved intake. When Triumph wanted to fit the H6 (at approximately CT or CTC62000) on the 4A, they found that the longer intake resulted in the air cleaner banging against the right inner fender. All that said the visual difference is the length of the distance between the butterfly and the air cleaner. The HS6 was only used on the later 4As with, I guess the S standing for "short" throat. Lou Metelko Auburn, Indiana From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Mon Apr 8 14:58:36 2013 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2013 13:58:36 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Subject: The good, the bad, the ?? Message-ID: <1365454716.18263.YahooMailNeo@web160104.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Hi List! Well I thought that i was reading the latest TR Digest, but then I just receive #118. I see that this topic is not on that one. So somehow I didn't get #117 & I checked the Spam folder. I have no idea how that happened. Anyways, I know it's late to put this in, but I do agree with the list vs form style. I, like Peter, do feel that the threads FLOW. I'm glad you pointed that out, because that explains why I don't check out the 'British Form'. There isn't that 'Family' touch of togetherness. I do agree that's wise for mark NOT to change the format. Keep it as it is. I find it much more enjoyable to read this style, because you can look & Do NOT have to participate. -Cosmo Kramer From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Mon Apr 8 15:16:14 2013 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2013 14:16:14 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Subject: Routing path for Speedo cable on TR4A Message-ID: <1365455774.98931.YahooMailNeo@web160106.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Hi List! Well, as I remember it, the OD tranny has the cable go down the bulkhead to cross over the tranny, down along the right side of the tranny & Into the angle drive. The No OD goes down the bulkhead 7 along the left side of the tranny, then crosses UNDER the tranny (in front of the tranny mount) & into the tranny (NO Angle Drive). If I'm wrong, I'm sorry, & I know this list well enough that they will feel FREE to E-mail me to tell me the "Right Way"! -Cosmo Kramer From wbeech at flash.net Mon Apr 8 16:07:01 2013 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2013 17:07:01 -0500 Subject: [TR] 60's icon passes Message-ID: <541CAA9EFC8949F0ADAE43768F22AA8F@bboffice> Along with our iconic LBCs of the 50s & 60s were the countless "Beach....." movies with Frankie & Annette. Just read that she passed away today. Never saw her in a TR, but who cares. BB From yellowtr at adelphia.net Mon Apr 8 16:27:28 2013 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Mon, 08 Apr 2013 18:27:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] 60's icon passes In-Reply-To: <541CAA9EFC8949F0ADAE43768F22AA8F@bboffice> References: <541CAA9EFC8949F0ADAE43768F22AA8F@bboffice> Message-ID: <51634450.8020709@adelphia.net> Yeah, And believe it or not she was born in Utica, NY, about 3 miles from my home when I was growing up. I dont think she stayed in CNY long though. Bob On 04/08/2013 06:07 PM, wbeech at flash.net wrote: > Along with our iconic LBCs of the 50s & 60s were the countless "Beach....." > movies with Frankie & Annette. Just read that she passed away today. > > Never saw her in a TR, but who cares. > > BB From rjones at wfeca.net Mon Apr 8 20:30:34 2013 From: rjones at wfeca.net (Robert Jones) Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2013 21:30:34 -0500 Subject: [TR] Thermostats Message-ID: <71B38EAA-887B-4BC9-BD26-C2AFD3146263@wfeca.net> HI I have two bellows type thermostats, one that opens at 160 degrees f and one that opens at 179 degrees. Any suggestions as to which one I use. The car is in Florida and has a TR3 engine with alloy radiator. Thanks From dave at ranteer.com Mon Apr 8 21:06:26 2013 From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave) Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2013 22:06:26 -0500 Subject: [TR] cockpit covers Message-ID: hi. I remember at some point someone was selling a cockpit cover that completely covered the windshield, top, and sidecurtains. does anyone have a link to this site? From dixie4.wales at virgin.net Tue Apr 9 04:35:51 2013 From: dixie4.wales at virgin.net (Dixie4) Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2013 11:35:51 +0100 Subject: [TR] Thermostats In-Reply-To: <71B38EAA-887B-4BC9-BD26-C2AFD3146263@wfeca.net> References: <71B38EAA-887B-4BC9-BD26-C2AFD3146263@wfeca.net> Message-ID: <0D429316948A4B6CAF719E9B79ACCF84@AdrianPC> As I recall the recommended temp range for most cars of 50/60s era and later would be 180 so 179 would seem right. Sometimes a different temp would be recommended for winter and summer same as oil viscosity. Not exactly sure of the temp recommendation for the TR3. The lower rated of the two you have is the type that would probably be originally fitted to diesel engine cars and trucks where the requirement is for the stat to open earlier owing to the extra heat generated by much higher compression pressures. Also it is a possible short term fix if a petrol powered car overheats easily. The right opening temp improves running efficiency and economy. Ideally the TR engine requires a skirted thermostat to restrict the flow though the bypass. On a final personal note engine rebuilds are expensive and bellows type thermostats were and are notorious for failure so I would not like to risk it. Junk the bellows type as it must have been manufactured 40+ years ago and fit a 'Waxstat' type with a suitably modded skirt. Many ideas of how to do this have been discussed on the 'List' over the years. Adrian TR4A CT64306 O Wales UK ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert Jones" To: Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2013 3:30 AM Subject: [TR] Thermostats > HI > > I have two bellows type thermostats, one that opens at 160 degrees f and > one > that opens at 179 degrees. Any suggestions as to which one I use. The > car is > in Florida and has a TR3 engine with alloy radiator. > > Thanks > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dixie4.wales at virgin.net > > > ----- > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 2013.0.3272 / Virus Database: 3162/6231 - Release Date: 04/07/13 From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Apr 9 06:50:48 2013 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2013 08:50:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] cockpit covers In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Moss is were I got mine http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29544&SortOrder=10 www.TR6.Danielsonfamily.org 1975 Mimosa TR6 with: Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff CVJs And more.... -----Original Message----- From: Dave Sent: Monday, April 08, 2013 11:06 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] cockpit covers hi. I remember at some point someone was selling a cockpit cover that completely covered the windshield, top, and sidecurtains. does anyone have a link to this site? ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From tjwakeman at gmail.com Tue Apr 9 06:55:08 2013 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Tue, 09 Apr 2013 05:55:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] Thermostats In-Reply-To: <0D429316948A4B6CAF719E9B79ACCF84@AdrianPC> References: <71B38EAA-887B-4BC9-BD26-C2AFD3146263@wfeca.net> <0D429316948A4B6CAF719E9B79ACCF84@AdrianPC> Message-ID: <51640FAC.4010908@gmail.com> On 4/9/13 3:35 AM, Dixie4 wrote: > On a final personal note engine rebuilds are expensive and bellows > type thermostats were and are notorious for failure so I would not > like to risk it. Junk the bellows type as it must have been > manufactured 40+ years ago Really? I had not heard of that nor experienced it. Both my cars came with bellows type thermostats. I have had the Land Rover for 35 years as of last March and the TR3 since 1986 and have yet to experience a thermostat failure. I hope metal parts do not go bad sitting on a shelf in a protected environment as I have a lot of NLA spares for my cars sitting on shelves, including at least 5 new Smiths thermostats. TeriAnn From eoot at citlink.net Tue Apr 9 06:59:45 2013 From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot) Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2013 08:59:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] 60's icon passes In-Reply-To: <51634450.8020709@adelphia.net> References: <541CAA9EFC8949F0ADAE43768F22AA8F@bboffice> <51634450.8020709@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <008401ce3522$1c706050$555120f0$@citlink.net> Having grown up near Utica I also felt that connection, along with having a heck of a crush on her when watching the MM Club. It' sad to see the video of what MS did to her, but she never lost her inner beauty. Ed -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Labuz Sent: Monday, April 08, 2013 6:27 PM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] 60's icon passes Yeah, And believe it or not she was born in Utica, NY, about 3 miles from my home when I was growing up. I dont think she stayed in CNY long though. Bob On 04/08/2013 06:07 PM, wbeech at flash.net wrote: > Along with our iconic LBCs of the 50s & 60s were the countless "Beach....." > movies with Frankie & Annette. Just read that she passed away today. > > Never saw her in a TR, but who cares. > > BB ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/eoot at citlink.net From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Apr 9 08:38:10 2013 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2013 07:38:10 -0700 Subject: [TR] Thermostats In-Reply-To: <71B38EAA-887B-4BC9-BD26-C2AFD3146263@wfeca.net> Message-ID: <33.7D.11869.1D724615@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> > I have two bellows type thermostats, one that opens at 160 > degrees f and one that opens at 179 degrees. Any suggestions > as to which one I use. The car is in Florida and has a TR3 > engine with alloy radiator. If I was going to use a bellows thermostat in FL, I would definitely go with the 160F (as original). The bellows move relatively slow (compared to the later wax capsule type), so they won't be fully open until a substantially higher temperature. According to the Bentley, the early bellows-type thermostat started to open at 70C (158F) and wasn't fully open until 92C (197F). -- Randall From dave at ranteer.com Tue Apr 9 09:04:47 2013 From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave) Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2013 10:04:47 -0500 Subject: [TR] car cover Message-ID: any recommendations for an inside only tr3 car cover? just like to keep it protected a little in the garage From dixie4.wales at virgin.net Tue Apr 9 10:30:23 2013 From: dixie4.wales at virgin.net (Dixie4) Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2013 17:30:23 +0100 Subject: [TR] Thermostats In-Reply-To: <51640FAC.4010908@gmail.com> References: <71B38EAA-887B-4BC9-BD26-C2AFD3146263@wfeca.net><0D429316948A4B6CAF719E9B79ACCF84@AdrianPC> <51640FAC.4010908@gmail.com> Message-ID: <9CEAA2838A664C719292BACACE175CD7@AdrianPC> I did say it was on a personal note as I have never had much luck with the bellows variety, almost every car I bought in my younger days had a faulty one. It does make you think why there was an almost universal change to wax type thermostats in the sixties. Could be cheaper to manufacture or just new improved. I do not know the answer. Randall has pointed out that the bellows type open slower so this may be a factor to take into account. As an aside I do not remember seeing a production skirted wax type thermostat. I am sure someone will tell me if I am mistaken. Adrian ----- Original Message ----- From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" To: Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2013 1:55 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Thermostats > On 4/9/13 3:35 AM, Dixie4 wrote: >> On a final personal note engine rebuilds are expensive and bellows type >> thermostats were and are notorious for failure so I would not like to >> risk it. Junk the bellows type as it must have been manufactured 40+ >> years ago > Really? I had not heard of that nor experienced it. Both my cars came > with bellows type thermostats. I have had the Land Rover for 35 years as > of last March and the TR3 since 1986 and have yet to experience a > thermostat failure. > > I hope metal parts do not go bad sitting on a shelf in a protected > environment as I have a lot of NLA spares for my cars sitting on shelves, > including at least 5 new Smiths thermostats. > > TeriAnn > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dixie4.wales at virgin.net > > > ----- > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 2013.0.3272 / Virus Database: 3162/6233 - Release Date: 04/08/13 From wbeech at flash.net Tue Apr 9 12:41:57 2013 From: wbeech at flash.net (WBEECH) Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2013 13:41:57 -0500 Subject: [TR] Empty trailer Message-ID: <5534076A-45EA-4E4F-9BD0-3F304863DB25@flash.net> I know this is a long shot but is anyone coming through San Antonio with an empty trailer headed toward Fort Worth? Thx, Bill From bkahler1 at gmail.com Tue Apr 9 13:30:09 2013 From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2013 15:30:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] cockpit covers In-Reply-To: <6E7AE38417834F80988CEB4E0243967A@DellLaptop> References: <6E7AE38417834F80988CEB4E0243967A@DellLaptop> Message-ID: Oh well, would have been nice if it was water proof. Tonneaus are pretty good for rain but something similar to what Moss sells that is water proof would be the cat's meow :) Brad On Tue, Apr 9, 2013 at 2:00 PM, Bob Danielson <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org > wrote: > Brad... they are not waterproof....more like water resistant..... water > will pool on them but eventually it will soak through. > > Bob > > www.TR6.Danielsonfamily.org > 1975 Mimosa TR6 with: > Throttle Body Injection > Toyota 5 Speed > Nissan Diff > CVJs > And more.... > > *From:* Brad Kahler > *Sent:* Tuesday, April 09, 2013 12:49 PM > *To:* Bob Danielson <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> > *Cc:* Dave ; Triumphs > *Subject:* Re: [TR] cockpit covers > > Bob, > > Are these covers water proof? In other words will they work in the place > of a tonneau cover when it comes to rain/moisture? > > There was no mention of moisture in their description. > > Brad > > > > On Tue, Apr 9, 2013 at 8:50 AM, Bob Danielson < > 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote: > >> Moss is were I got mine >> >> http://www.mossmotors.com/**Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?** >> PlateIndexID=29544&SortOrder=**10 >> >> >> www.TR6.Danielsonfamily.org >> 1975 Mimosa TR6 with: >> Throttle Body Injection >> Toyota 5 Speed >> Nissan Diff >> CVJs >> And more.... >> >> -----Original Message----- From: Dave >> Sent: Monday, April 08, 2013 11:06 PM >> To: triumphs at autox.team.net >> Subject: [TR] cockpit covers >> >> hi. I remember at some point someone was selling a cockpit cover that >> completely covered the windshield, top, and sidecurtains. >> >> does anyone have a link to this site? >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** >> options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.**danielsonfamily.org >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** >> options/triumphs/bkahler1@**gmail.com From dctr6 at optonline.net Tue Apr 9 14:38:37 2013 From: dctr6 at optonline.net (Dennis Culligan) Date: Tue, 09 Apr 2013 16:38:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] FW: Windshield from Moss - Follow up Message-ID: <000301ce3562$36855d20$a3901760$@net> I wrote: > I bought a windshield from Moss Motors back in January 2013. It's for my TR6 >but it says it also fits TR4, Spits, GT6s, etc. Well, it doesn't fit a TR6. The glass was >cut unevenly and the passenger side is too tall. Moss is sending a replacement & >it is hoped that it will fit. Just a word of caution. The new windshield arrived and it fits just fine. No idea how the other one got cut wrong. Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U PS. Someone asked if it's a Triplex - no, it's not. From carlsereda at aol.com Tue Apr 9 14:52:09 2013 From: carlsereda at aol.com (Carl Sereda) Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2013 16:52:09 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] modern skirted 'stats In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8D0037B3C548D03-D60-31053@webmail-d190.sysops.aol.com> Hi Adrian, Yes, the benefit of older Triumphs having something in common with older Jaguars - someone with Jags in mind had bright idea of taking the very well made all brass Robert Shaw pellet thermostats and having tooling developed to stamp and turn, a heavy brass sleeve and then have sleeve soldered onto the stock Robert Shaw thermostats. The sleeve action is opposite direction, but ends up blocking by-pass just like the original bellows sleeved SMITHS thermostat does inside my TR4 housing. I did a side-by-side stove-top test with this new fangled one and an original SMITHS bellows/sleaved thermostat - effectively the same result. I bought mine from http://www.xks.com in the US for $35 about 15 years ago.. Then Moss picked them up about 5-10 years ago and sold them for about $45 I recall.. hmm.. now I see they're listing one in recent catalogue (not sure if same or a bellows type one) for $109.95! Regards, Carl '63 TR4 since '74 I did say it was on a personal note as I have never had much luck with the bellows variety, almost every car I bought in my younger days had a faulty one. It does make you think why there was an almost universal change to wax type thermostats in the sixties. Could be cheaper to manufacture or just new improved. I do not know the answer. Randall has pointed out that the bellows type open slower so this may be a factor to take into account. As an aside I do not remember seeing a production skirted wax type thermostat. I am sure someone will tell me if I am mistaken. Adrian From wbeech at flash.net Tue Apr 9 15:01:27 2013 From: wbeech at flash.net (WBEECH) Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2013 16:01:27 -0500 Subject: [TR] VTR2012 DVD Message-ID: At VTR last year there was a guy taking pictures and he also did the video show at the banquet. He said he was sending copies of all the pictures to whomever wanted them, I left my info for mailing but no DVD. Does anyone know who this was and how I may contact him? So many great cars and I did not take near enough pictures. Thanks, Bill. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Apr 9 15:04:02 2013 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2013 21:04:02 +0000 Subject: [TR] Thermostats In-Reply-To: <9CEAA2838A664C719292BACACE175CD7@AdrianPC> Message-ID: <20130409210402.N68CH.7813.root@cdptpa-web01-z01> ---- Dixie4 wrote: > It does make you think why there was an almost universal change to wax > type thermostats in the sixties. Could be cheaper to manufacture or just new > improved. I do not know the answer. Maybe not "the" answer, but I know of several reasons. One of the biggest, IMO, is that when the bellows type does fail, they fail closed. Instant overheat! The wax type used to be known as "failsafe" because they generally fail open. (Not always, I have had them fail closed or partially open, but usually open.) Another is that the bellows (and hence the thermostat setpoint) is affected by coolant pressure while the wax type is relatively unaffected. Higher coolant pressure tends to hold them closed, not a Good Thing. And of course, the wax type is at least somewhat cheaper to make as well. Randall From pethier at comcast.net Tue Apr 9 16:42:38 2013 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 9 Apr 2013 22:42:38 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Empty trailer In-Reply-To: <5534076A-45EA-4E4F-9BD0-3F304863DB25@flash.net> Message-ID: <1957731902.229489.1365547358070.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> What are you up to? Sorry, not scheduled to be in the Lone Star State in the near future. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier at comcast.net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica http://www.mnautox.com http://www.mntriumphs.org ----- Original Message ----- > From: "WBEECH" > To: "" > Sent: Tuesday, April 9, 2013 1:41:57 PM > Subject: [TR] Empty trailer > I know this is a long shot but is anyone coming through San Antonio > with an > empty trailer headed toward Fort Worth? > > Thx, > Bill > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net From arakelianp at mossmotors.com Wed Apr 10 12:38:28 2013 From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Pete Arakelian) Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2013 11:38:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] modern skirted 'stats Message-ID: <4D4FABA15328FC42B1AA0DEE4673548C0188B8E96A07@DR-EX-04.datacenter.dataresolution.net> Just F.Y.I... The Moss $109.95 is a true reproduction of the original. The sleeve is not "soldered" at the base of the stat. It is as illustrated and as original, spaced away from the bottom of the stat and is a true bellows type. And yes, you must preserve the lower pressure system or the bellows will collapse. Moss does offer the fail-safe type that always locks open when overheated. Peter From glemon at neb.rr.com Wed Apr 10 18:00:30 2013 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (glemon at neb.rr.com) Date: Wed, 10 Apr 2013 19:00:30 -0500 Subject: [TR] modern skirted 'stats In-Reply-To: <4D4FABA15328FC42B1AA0DEE4673548C0188B8E96A07@DR-EX-04.datacenter.dataresolution.net> Message-ID: <20130411000030.2B72F.31776.root@hrndva-web16-z01> Great discussion on thermostats. I have the original one (I think) in my tr250 and I put it back in after I tested it and it seemed to work fine. Still not planning onswapping it out, but will put a spare in the trunk. Greg Lemon ---- Pete Arakelian wrote: > Just F.Y.I... > The Moss $109.95 is a true reproduction of the original. The sleeve is not > "soldered" at the base of the stat. It is as illustrated and as original, > spaced away from the bottom of the stat and is a true bellows type. And yes, > you must preserve the lower pressure system or the bellows will collapse. > Moss does offer the fail-safe type that always locks open when overheated. > Peter > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/glemon at neb.rr.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Apr 10 19:30:34 2013 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2013 1:30:34 +0000 Subject: [TR] modern skirted 'stats In-Reply-To: <20130411000030.2B72F.31776.root@hrndva-web16-z01> Message-ID: <20130411013034.6C3P0.16573.root@cdptpa-web01-z01> ---- glemon at neb.rr.com wrote: > Still not planning onswapping it out, but will put a spare in the trunk. Your TR250 would have had a wax pellet type (no sleeve) as original anyway. Hardly worth carrying a spare, when you can pick up one that will work just fine at practically any car parts place (Autozone, O'Reillys, etc). And actually, the engine will run plenty well enough to get you home even without a thermostat. Heater won't work very good, though :) From mark at bradakis.com Thu Apr 11 00:31:37 2013 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2013 00:31:37 -0600 Subject: [TR] 22 and counting Message-ID: <516658C9.7090509@bradakis.com> A number of you already tossed into the hat based on my message about what you'd like to see, or not see. Thanks, you're off the hook. Here's what I'm sending to the other popular lists: April 11th, 1991 - Team.Net becomes an official domain. For a few years before that, though, the basic foundation was getting built up. It has been a long ride from those days until now. We are still here. And we can continue on for who knows how many more years? If you'd like to help Team.Net continue, consider putting a few dollars towards keeping it on the air: http://www.team.net/donations.html mjb. From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Apr 11 05:51:02 2013 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2013 07:51:02 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Skirted thermostats Message-ID: <13d913.4c0047f3.3e97fda6@cs.com> All this talk about skirted thermostats is just silly. A real man uses a KILTED thermostat! Dave From spook01 at comcast.net Thu Apr 11 06:41:15 2013 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2013 07:41:15 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Skirted_thermostats?= Message-ID: Let the wind blow high, let the wind blow low, down the street in my kilt I'll go, all the lassies say hello. Donald where's your trousers? Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: Dave1massey at cs.com To: Subject: [TR] Skirted thermostats Date: Thu, Apr 11, 2013 06:51 All this talk about skirted thermostats is just silly. A real man uses a KILTED thermostat! Dave ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Thu Apr 11 09:05:13 2013 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2013 08:05:13 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 Speedometer Calibration Graph Message-ID: <1365692713.60557.YahooMailNeo@web180904.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Is there an online pdf for the calibration for a TR3A speedometer with overdrive? I would like to do a check of rpm's verses speed indication. TIA, Bill in Tehachapi From m.d.mackay at sympatico.ca Thu Apr 11 15:22:40 2013 From: m.d.mackay at sympatico.ca (Mo and Dave MacKay) Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2013 17:22:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Speedometer Calibration Graph Message-ID: Bob Danielson has an excellent write-up on his web site: http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/SpeedometerCalibration.htm I created a little spreadsheet that calculates the speed at any rpm in a particular gear when I was contemplating installing the HVDA conversion in my TR3A. I'd be happy to send it to anyone on the list who might find it helpful. After installing the HVDA transmission, I found myself routinely speeding so that I figured I'd better re-calibrate my speedometer. I sent my speedometer to Margaret Lawrence at Mo-Ma in New Mexico. She charged US$150 to recalibrate the speedo and had it back to me in about 2 weeks. I'm happy with the work that Mo-Ma did. In order to calibrate the speedo, Mo-Ma needed to know how many revolutions the speedo cable makes in a mile. My speedo was set for 1184 revs per mile. To determine what the revs are now, I measured out 59 9= (1/100 of a mile) on the road in front of my house. I marked the wheel and pushed the car over that distance to see how many revs the cable made. I repeated that 4 or 5 times. I came up with 10 complete turns and a partial turn of about 215 degrees, which works out to 10.5972 speedometer cable turns over the 52 9= distance. Consequently, I asked Mo-Ma to calibrate my speedo for 1060 revs. Regards, Dave MacKay 1960 Triumph TR3A s/n 68639L near Toronto, Canada >Message: 7 >Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2013 08:05:13 -0700 (PDT) >From: William Brewer >To: Triumphs >Subject: [TR] TR3 Speedometer Calibration Graph >Message-ID: <1365692713.60557.YahooMailNeo at web180904.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Is there an online pdf for the calibration for a TR3A speedometer with >overdrive? I would like to do a check of rpm's verses speed indication. > >TIA, > > Bill in Tehachapi [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/vnd] From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Thu Apr 11 16:22:52 2013 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2013 15:22:52 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Speedometer Calibration Graph In-Reply-To: <1365692713.60557.YahooMailNeo@web180904.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1365692713.60557.YahooMailNeo@web180904.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Bill Try here & page down to last item... Rhodes TR Site Procedure is the same OD or non-OD as the speedo is reading the output shaft and doesn't care what is going on prior to that. As I recall your Practical Hints manual has a chart of mph per 1000 RPM in each gear, standard & OD. Geo On Thu, Apr 11, 2013 at 8:05 AM, William Brewer wrote: > Is there an online pdf for the calibration for a TR3A speedometer with > overdrive? I would like to do a check of rpm's verses speed indication. > > TIA, > > Bill in Tehachapi > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Thu Apr 11 17:02:28 2013 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2013 19:02:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Speedometer Calibration Graph In-Reply-To: References: <1365692713.60557.YahooMailNeo@web180904.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Istr a rpm at 10mph. My car has done well by doubling the rpm in 4th gear. If 4.10 you're on your own.... Gotta get the speedometer fixed some day... On Apr 11, 2013 6:26 PM, "Geo Hahn" wrote: > Bill > > Try here & page down to last item... > > Rhodes TR Site > > Procedure is the same OD or non-OD as the speedo is reading the output > shaft and doesn't care what is going on prior to that. > > As I recall your Practical Hints manual has a chart of mph per 1000 RPM in > each gear, standard & OD. > > Geo > > > > On Thu, Apr 11, 2013 at 8:05 AM, William Brewer > wrote: > > > Is there an online pdf for the calibration for a TR3A speedometer > with > > overdrive? I would like to do a check of rpm's verses speed indication. > > > > TIA, > > > > Bill in Tehachapi > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ccsimonsen at gmail.com From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Apr 12 06:08:26 2013 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2013 08:08:26 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Skirted thermostats Message-ID: <12348c.47aa89df.3e995339@cs.com> Scotsman clad in kilt left the bar one evening fair And one could tell by the way he walked that he drunk more than his share He fumbled round until he cold no longer keep his feet Then he stumbled off into the grass to sleep beside the street. http://www.lyrster.com/come-back/ring-ding-dittle-little-eye-de-o/www.thebar ds.net/music/lyrics/The_Scotsman.shtml In a message dated 4/12/2013 4:05:28 AM Central Daylight Time, mmarr at mail1.notwires.com writes: > Ah just got doon fra' the Isles o' Skye, Ah'm no' very big an' ah'm awfu' > shy, an' the lassies say, when I go by, "Donald, where's yer troosers?" From aribertn at gmail.com Fri Apr 12 06:20:28 2013 From: aribertn at gmail.com (aribert neumann) Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2013 08:20:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] Metric threads on GT6 / TR-6 motor mounts - anyone else notice this lately - long posting Message-ID: Greeting all: Anyone recently bought Triumph motor mounts where the threaded stud was metric instead of inch? Recently I purchased new motor mounts for my Spit bodied GT6 from a US supplier specializing in the small Triumphs . Last night I took the time to install the first of them. The new mounts came w/ nuts on the studs - this was a bit unusual so I checked the threads - M10x1.25 (fine thread) instead of 3/8-24. Leads me to think these are Chi-com or similar parts (along with the "rubber" that had flashed onto the mounting surface that I had to cut off to make the part fit properly). If the supplier has no issues with making a fastener substitution, what other substitution are they willing to make? If the vendor is willing to supply one inferior part - how many others that they sell might be inferior? Anyone else replaced motor mounts recently in a GT6 or TR6 (not sure what else shares this part)? The Spit 1500 appears to have a similar mount but with a single stud instead of dual 3/8-24 studs - not sure what the earlier Spit motor mounts looked like. If so did the part include new nuts? Did you check if the threads were metric? I realize that service parts such as these are made in small runs - I suspect that the worldwide demand for TR-6 / GT6 motor mounts may not exceed a few hundred pcs per year. Maybe we are down to one willing supplier and it is a take it or leave it situation - I am just trying to see if there are other options before I contact the vendor. Motor mounts are pretty straightforward and hard to screw up but I also bought new front spindles from the same vendor that I will not get around to installing for several months and I am a bit concerned about a poorly machined part or a bad material substitution by some 3rd world supplier. Spindles are a bit more mission critical than a motor mount. From spook01 at comcast.net Fri Apr 12 06:34:54 2013 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2013 07:34:54 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Skirted_thermostats?= Message-ID: Two young girls came by and one said to the other, "Nell, I want to know what these Scots wear under their kilts"! Her friend was enthusiastic, too, and so they pulled up the lads kilt. After admiring the length and breadth, one girl playfully tied a hair ribbon around the member, and the girls laughed about it on the way home. In the morning, the young scotsman awoke and with a sore head went to relieve himself. As he stood behind a bush he was startled to find the ribbon! "Lad, I don't know where ye've been, but you've won first prize!" Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: Dave1massey at cs.com To: Subject: [TR] Skirted thermostats Date: Fri, Apr 12, 2013 07:08 Scotsman clad in kilt left the bar one evening fair And one could tell by the way he walked that he drunk more than his share He fumbled round until he cold no longer keep his feet Then he stumbled off into the grass to sleep beside the street. http://www.lyrster.com/come-back/ring-ding-dittle-little-eye-de-o/www.thebar ds.net/music/lyrics/The_Scotsman.shtml In a message dated 4/12/2013 4:05:28 AM Central Daylight Time, mmarr at mail1.notwires.com writes: > Ah just got doon fra' the Isles o' Skye, Ah'm no' very big an' ah'm awfu' > shy, an' the lassies say, when I go by, "Donald, where's yer troosers?" ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From auprichard at uprichard.net Fri Apr 12 13:09:06 2013 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2013 15:09:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] engine stands Message-ID: <00b001ce37b1$353ef2e0$9fbcd8a0$@uprichard.net> I am thinking of getting an engine stand. I see Harbor Freight has a couple of 1000lb stands. Questions: is 1000 Ok for a TR3 engine and (overdrive) gearbox combination and does anyone have experience with the Harbor Freight ones? Andrew Uprichard From jagmog at hotmail.com Fri Apr 12 13:22:33 2013 From: jagmog at hotmail.com (Jonas Payne) Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2013 12:22:33 -0700 Subject: [TR] engine stands In-Reply-To: <00b001ce37b1$353ef2e0$9fbcd8a0$@uprichard.net> References: <00b001ce37b1$353ef2e0$9fbcd8a0$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: Just used one of the HF ones for my AH3000 (longer and heavier than the TR4) but would not attempt with the trans and OD attached. It's a fine piece of kit, but the lever arm with an trans and OD anchor hanging off the end may be a bit much. Jonas Payne PBR Consulting 702-882-6711 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard Sent: Friday, April 12, 2013 12:09 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] engine stands I am thinking of getting an engine stand. I see Harbor Freight has a couple of 1000lb stands. Questions: is 1000 Ok for a TR3 engine and (overdrive) gearbox combination and does anyone have experience with the Harbor Freight ones? Andrew Uprichard ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jagmog at hotmail.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Apr 12 13:23:05 2013 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2013 19:23:05 +0000 Subject: [TR] engine stands In-Reply-To: <00b001ce37b1$353ef2e0$9fbcd8a0$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <20130412192305.6LCX6.29597.root@cdptpa-web01-z01> ---- Andrew Uprichard wrote: > I am thinking of getting an engine stand. I see Harbor Freight has a couple > of 1000lb stands. Questions: is 1000 Ok for a TR3 engine and (overdrive) > gearbox combination and does anyone have experience with the Harbor Freight > ones? What HF calls an "engine stand" is not intended for hanging an engine plus gearbox on. The engine mounts to it via the rear flange. I have the discontinued 750 lb engine stand from HF, it works well enough for me. http://goo.gl/kEQVs The main difference is that it only has 3 wheels and is correspondingly less stable (which can be a concern if you are trying to move it over a rough floor with an engine on). It's had a TR4 engine block hanging on it for probably 20 years now and is still holding fine. IIRC I had to source some suitable bolts, though. The ones that came with it were not long enough. Randall From yellowtr at adelphia.net Fri Apr 12 13:26:22 2013 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2013 15:26:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] engine stands In-Reply-To: <00b001ce37b1$353ef2e0$9fbcd8a0$@uprichard.net> References: <00b001ce37b1$353ef2e0$9fbcd8a0$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <51685FDE.5020404@adelphia.net> Andrew, I used the 1K stand for both my TR4 and TR6 engines. Didnt have the transmissions mounted. They worked really good. Rotate etc. I also loaned it to a friend who used it for a 200CC Ford Mustang 6 CYL with no problems. When it came time to mount the transmission, I just hooked the engine up to my chain-fall and then lowered the engine on a pallet where I assembled the clutch and transmission prior to installation into the engine. If you have your transmission mounted to the engine, how will you attach the stand to the engine? The attachment points are on the rear of the engine with flywheel off. 4 long bolts hold the engine to the stand. Bob On 04/12/2013 03:09 PM, Andrew Uprichard wrote: > I am thinking of getting an engine stand. I see Harbor Freight has a couple > of 1000lb stands. Questions: is 1000 Ok for a TR3 engine and (overdrive) > gearbox combination and does anyone have experience with the Harbor Freight > ones? > > Andrew Uprichard From auprichard at uprichard.net Fri Apr 12 13:32:03 2013 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2013 15:32:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] engine stands In-Reply-To: <51685FDE.5020404@adelphia.net> References: <00b001ce37b1$353ef2e0$9fbcd8a0$@uprichard.net> <51685FDE.5020404@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <00bf01ce37b4$6a585d60$3f091820$@uprichard.net> Thanks, Bob - I wasn't thinking. It happens frequently these days............. Rather like the time I was thinking of getting a tonneau cover for my TR3 and was then reminded it had a roll bar....... Andrew -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Labuz Sent: Friday, April 12, 2013 3:26 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] engine stands Andrew, I used the 1K stand for both my TR4 and TR6 engines. Didnt have the transmissions mounted. They worked really good. Rotate etc. I also loaned it to a friend who used it for a 200CC Ford Mustang 6 CYL with no problems. When it came time to mount the transmission, I just hooked the engine up to my chain-fall and then lowered the engine on a pallet where I assembled the clutch and transmission prior to installation into the engine. If you have your transmission mounted to the engine, how will you attach the stand to the engine? The attachment points are on the rear of the engine with flywheel off. 4 long bolts hold the engine to the stand. Bob On 04/12/2013 03:09 PM, Andrew Uprichard wrote: > I am thinking of getting an engine stand. I see Harbor Freight has a > couple of 1000lb stands. Questions: is 1000 Ok for a TR3 engine and > (overdrive) gearbox combination and does anyone have experience with > the Harbor Freight ones? > > Andrew Uprichard ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From tr6nut at verizon.net Fri Apr 12 13:40:35 2013 From: tr6nut at verizon.net (Hugh Barber) Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2013 15:40:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] Metric threads on GT6 / TR-6 motor mounts - anyone else notice this lately - long posting In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <51686333.8010407@verizon.net> I know that the TR8 motor mounts look exactly like TR6/GT6 mounts and are occasionally sold as "heavy-duty" TR6 motor mounts. The TR8 mounts have metric threads. Perhaps they have consolidated production in the PRC and only make one mount for the TR6/GT6/TR8? Hugh Barber Stafford, VA On 4/12/2013 8:20 AM, aribert neumann wrote: > Greeting all: > > Anyone recently bought Triumph motor mounts where the threaded stud was > metric instead of inch? From darrellw360 at mac.com Fri Apr 12 13:40:13 2013 From: darrellw360 at mac.com (Darrell Walker) Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2013 19:40:13 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] engine stands In-Reply-To: <00bf01ce37b4$6a585d60$3f091820$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: On Apr 12, 2013, at 12:32 PM, Andrew Uprichard wrote: Rather like the time I was thinking of getting a tonneau cover for my TR3 and was then reminded it had a roll bar....... I had both a tonnueau and roll bar on my TR4a for a long time. Just had cutouts made to go around the roll bar. Maybe not quite so easy on a TR3, since it wouldn't be so flat. -Darrell From yellowtr at adelphia.net Fri Apr 12 13:42:15 2013 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2013 15:42:15 -0400 Subject: [TR] engine stands In-Reply-To: <00bf01ce37b4$6a585d60$3f091820$@uprichard.net> References: <00b001ce37b1$353ef2e0$9fbcd8a0$@uprichard.net> <51685FDE.5020404@adelphia.net> <00bf01ce37b4$6a585d60$3f091820$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <51686397.4000208@adelphia.net> Andrew, Ok, and by the way, that was a 200 CI Ford engine not CC. Doubt a 200 CC engine would be much good in a 65 Mustang! Bob On 04/12/2013 03:32 PM, Andrew Uprichard wrote: > Thanks, Bob - I wasn't thinking. It happens frequently these > days............. > > Rather like the time I was thinking of getting a tonneau cover for my TR3 > and was then reminded it had a roll bar....... > > Andrew > > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Labuz > Sent: Friday, April 12, 2013 3:26 PM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] engine stands > > Andrew, > > I used the 1K stand for both my TR4 and TR6 engines. Didnt have the > transmissions mounted. They worked really good. Rotate etc. I also loaned it > to a friend who used it for a 200CC Ford Mustang 6 CYL with no problems. > > When it came time to mount the transmission, I just hooked the engine up to > my chain-fall and then lowered the engine on a pallet where I assembled the > clutch and transmission prior to installation into the engine. > > If you have your transmission mounted to the engine, how will you attach the > stand to the engine? > > The attachment points are on the rear of the engine with flywheel off. 4 > long bolts hold the engine to the stand. > > Bob > > On 04/12/2013 03:09 PM, Andrew Uprichard wrote: >> I am thinking of getting an engine stand. I see Harbor Freight has a >> couple of 1000lb stands. Questions: is 1000 Ok for a TR3 engine and >> (overdrive) gearbox combination and does anyone have experience with >> the Harbor Freight ones? >> >> Andrew Uprichard From greg at gelhar.com Fri Apr 12 14:03:57 2013 From: greg at gelhar.com (greg at gelhar.com) Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2013 16:03:57 -0400 Subject: [TR] engine stands In-Reply-To: <00b001ce37b1$353ef2e0$9fbcd8a0$@uprichard.net> References: <00b001ce37b1$353ef2e0$9fbcd8a0$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <1e7ae5e9d44f19fea662387b2f53720e.squirrel@email.accountsupport.com> I don't like the stability of a three wheeled stand. You would like a four wheel stand better if you intend to move it under load. Greg G. Osseo, MN > I am thinking of getting an engine stand. I see Harbor Freight has a > couple > of 1000lb stands. Questions: is 1000 Ok for a TR3 engine and (overdrive) > gearbox combination and does anyone have experience with the Harbor > Freight > ones? > > Andrew Uprichard > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/greg at gelhar.com From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Fri Apr 12 14:17:20 2013 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2013 16:17:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] engine stands In-Reply-To: <1e7ae5e9d44f19fea662387b2f53720e.squirrel@email.accountsupport.com> References: <00b001ce37b1$353ef2e0$9fbcd8a0$@uprichard.net> <1e7ae5e9d44f19fea662387b2f53720e.squirrel@email.accountsupport.com> Message-ID: I tried one of those hydraulic lift tables from Harbor Frieght on my last rebuild of the TR4. I really liked it. I set up the TR6 motor with a steel plate on the side and mounted it sideways on the motor stand - that is working out really nicely as well. I can send pics of the motor mounted sideways on the stand if you email me directly. Chris From trguy75 at gmail.com Fri Apr 12 15:36:08 2013 From: trguy75 at gmail.com (James Henningsen) Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2013 17:36:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR Auction in NC - Check It Out Message-ID: <004201ce37c5$bfe16db0$3fa44910$@gmail.com> Save these cars! http://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/3735257268.html Jim Henningsen Ocala, FL From McGaheyRx at aol.com Fri Apr 12 15:58:23 2013 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2013 17:58:23 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] TR Auction in NC - Check It Out Message-ID: <133508.7767d341.3e99dd7f@aol.com> This collection is very near me - and has been known to local club members for at least 3 years - of course the best cars sold a while back. I made the decision earlier in the week to go to this auction instead of an autocross tomorrow - I saw it as a chance to score dirt cheap parts cars - since the auction has now been splashed across the internet (on the eTCOC list as well as here) I regret even thinking about missing an autocross. If ANY of you are going to this auction and bidding on any of these Triumphs, PLEASE LET ME KNOW NOW - nothing will be cheap enough for me if several of us are there bidding against each other - and its not to late for me to go Autocross instead. Thanks, Jack Mc In a message dated 4/12/2013 5:36:09 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, trguy75 at gmail.com writes: Save these cars! http://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/3735257268.html Jim Henningsen Ocala, FL ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mcgaheyrx at aol.com From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Fri Apr 12 16:44:15 2013 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2013 17:44:15 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] engine stands Message-ID: <7244584.1166299.1365806655870.JavaMail.root@vms170033> If you have a sturdy work bench. you may want to move to the top for clutch/tranny installation. no need to bend over, etc as well as much less 'lifting' even with a hoist. see: http://s1001.photobucket.com/user/cfmtr3a/media/TS81802LO/07-Tran1.jpg.html I did end up putting down on the floor as there was a delay in getting it into the frame. but if all had been as I wanted, it would have been straight to the frame from the workbench (it is on rollers) Carl 1961 TR3A - TS81802LO mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a Tampa, Florida On 04/12/13, Bob Labuz wrote: When it came time to mount the transmission, I just hooked the engine up to my chain-fall and then lowered the engine on a pallet where I assembled the clutch and transmission prior to installation into the engine. From trguy75 at gmail.com Fri Apr 12 18:21:25 2013 From: trguy75 at gmail.com (James Henningsen) Date: Fri, 12 Apr 2013 20:21:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR Auction in NC - Check It Out In-Reply-To: <133508.7767d341.3e99dd7f@aol.com> References: <133508.7767d341.3e99dd7f@aol.com> Message-ID: <007f01ce37dc$d6d68980$84839c80$@gmail.com> Jack: Didn't mean to spoil the auction for you. Just wanted to make sure they don't end up in a scrap yard. Jim From: McGaheyRx at aol.com [mailto:McGaheyRx at aol.com] Sent: Friday, April 12, 2013 5:58 PM To: trguy75 at gmail.com; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR Auction in NC - Check It Out This collection is very near me - and has been known to local club members for at least 3 years - of course the best cars sold a while back. I made the decision earlier in the week to go to this auction instead of an autocross tomorrow - I saw it as a chance to score dirt cheap parts cars - since the auction has now been splashed across the internet (on the eTCOC list as well as here) I regret even thinking about missing an autocross. If ANY of you are going to this auction and bidding on any of these Triumphs, PLEASE LET ME KNOW NOW - nothing will be cheap enough for me if several of us are there bidding against each other - and its not to late for me to go Autocross instead. Thanks, Jack Mc In a message dated 4/12/2013 5:36:09 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, trguy75 at gmail.com writes: Save these cars! http://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/3735257268.html Jim Henningsen Ocala, FL ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mcgaheyrx at aol.com From McGaheyRx at aol.com Sat Apr 13 19:03:42 2013 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (Jack Mc) Date: Sat, 13 Apr 2013 21:03:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR Auction in NC - Check It Out In-Reply-To: <007f01ce37dc$d6d68980$84839c80$@gmail.com> References: <133508.7767d341.3e99dd7f@aol.com> <007f01ce37dc$d6d68980$84839c80$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <33DE44A1-A3A7-49B1-AF7C-0C5482DCD45D@aol.com> Jim - Apparently you needn't worry about any TRs ending up in a scrap yard in these parts - all the TR250s and the TR4 went for what I thought was too much money - the grey TR6 wreck in the woods went for over $500 - I bought the white TR6 for a decent price and every Triumph and Triumph part on the property went home with a Triumph enthusiast. It was actually a fun day - probably because there were entirely too many people there that I knew. ;-) Cheers, Jack Mc Sent from my iPad On Apr 12, 2013, at 8:21 PM, "James Henningsen" wrote: > Jack: > Didnbt mean to spoil the auction for you. Just wanted to make sure they donbt end up in a scrap yard. > Jim > > From: McGaheyRx at aol.com [mailto:McGaheyRx at aol.com] > Sent: Friday, April 12, 2013 5:58 PM > To: trguy75 at gmail.com; triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] TR Auction in NC - Check It Out > > This collection is very near me - and has been known to local club members for at least 3 years - of course the best cars sold a while back. > > I made the decision earlier in the week to go to this auction instead of an autocross tomorrow - I saw it as a chance to score dirt cheap parts cars - since the auction has now been splashed across the internet (on the eTCOC list as well as here) I regret even thinking about missing an autocross. > If ANY of you are going to this auction and bidding on any of these Triumphs, PLEASE LET ME KNOW NOW - nothing will be cheap enough for me if several of us are there bidding against each other - and its not to late for me to go Autocross instead. > > Thanks, > Jack Mc > > > > > In a message dated 4/12/2013 5:36:09 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, trguy75 at gmail.com writes: > Save these cars! > > > > http://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/3735257268.html > > > > Jim Henningsen > > Ocala, FL > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mcgaheyrx at aol.com From dctr6 at optonline.net Mon Apr 15 10:02:47 2013 From: dctr6 at optonline.net (Dennis Culligan) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2013 12:02:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Accelerator shaft bushings Message-ID: <000601ce39f2$ac8c0750$05a415f0$@net> After having my accelerator stick (why does it always stick ON and not OFF?), it appears I may need to replace the accelerator shaft bushings on my TR6 (all other parts of the carb linkages are new and/or not sticking or hanging up) . I have looked at both the MOSS catalog (part # 676-000 along with the Supplemental Info and Instructions) and the TRF website (parts # 138490 (nylon) and 138490/U (urethane)). I also have a copy of the article "Fabricating East-to-Install Accelerator Shaft Bearings" from the Buckeye Triumphs site. I have a pretty good idea how difficult these bearings/bushings will be to install especially since the engine is in the car and it's not coming out. My questions are: Can I presume that at almost 3x the price of the nylon bushing, the TRF urethane bushing will last 3x as long? Will the Urethane bushing be even more difficult to install? If I know a machinist that can fabricate the parts, is brass the best way to go? Any other bright ideas? I do NOT want to have to do this again. Thanks for your insight and any help you can provide. Dennis Culligan. Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U (with a new windshield ("I can see clearly now.")) From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Mon Apr 15 12:27:20 2013 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2013 11:27:20 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 performance In-Reply-To: <597083107.61823.1364582070490.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1366050440.47795.YahooMailClassic@web120006.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> drove my friends TR6 the other day and gave it a bit of stick. lots of fun. loved the car. but i did not feel it was any great improvement over my TR3. the one thing i did find a little funy was the way the back end moved around. when driving realativly staright if i drove over say a crack in the road the back would kind of jump to one side..just a little. no big deal. is that kind of normal in an IRS? Frank From yellowtr at adelphia.net Mon Apr 15 12:29:01 2013 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2013 14:29:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Accelerator shaft bushings In-Reply-To: <000601ce39f2$ac8c0750$05a415f0$@net> References: <000601ce39f2$ac8c0750$05a415f0$@net> Message-ID: <516C46ED.8030906@adelphia.net> Dennis, I used the bushing replacement kit provided by Art Lipp. Hist email is lipp04 at yahoo.com. Not sure how hard to do with engine in place. Bob On 04/15/2013 12:02 PM, Dennis Culligan wrote: > After having my accelerator stick (why does it always stick ON and not > OFF?), it appears I may need to replace the accelerator shaft bushings on my > TR6 (all other parts of the carb linkages are new and/or not sticking or > hanging up) . I have looked at both the MOSS catalog (part # 676-000 along > with the Supplemental Info and Instructions) and the TRF website (parts # > 138490 (nylon) and 138490/U (urethane)). I also have a copy of the article > "Fabricating East-to-Install Accelerator Shaft Bearings" from the Buckeye > Triumphs site. I have a pretty good idea how difficult these > bearings/bushings will be to install especially since the engine is in the > car and it's not coming out. My questions are: Can I presume that at almost > 3x the price of the nylon bushing, the TRF urethane bushing will last 3x as > long? Will the Urethane bushing be even more difficult to install? If I > know a machinist that can fabricate the parts, is brass the best way to go? > Any other bright ideas? I do NOT want to have to do this again. Thanks for > your insight and any help you can provide. > > Dennis Culligan. Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U (with a new windshield ("I > can see clearly now.")) From yellowtr at adelphia.net Mon Apr 15 12:55:28 2013 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2013 14:55:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 performance In-Reply-To: <1366050440.47795.YahooMailClassic@web120006.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1366050440.47795.YahooMailClassic@web120006.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <516C4D20.4010509@adelphia.net> Frank, I have to agree on the performance. Both my 3 and 4 seem to have a bit more between 2 and 3k than the 6. The 6 doesnt seem to get it on until about 3200 or so. The 3 is an 87MM engine. Both the 4 and 6 are stock. I use the same gas (premium without alcohol). All have Bell exhaust systems, SU carbs, stock ignition. As far as the hop in the 6, I have never noticed it. Did your 6 have a stock rear suspension? It does squat a bit on hard acceleration. As far as light rear ends, my 63 4 seems to be the lightest. Bob On 04/15/2013 02:27 PM, Frank Fisher wrote: > drove my friends TR6 the other day and gave it a bit of stick. > lots of fun. loved the car. > but i did not feel it was any great improvement over my TR3. > the one thing i did find a little funy was the way the back end moved around. > when driving realativly staright if i drove over say a crack in the road the > back would kind of jump to one side..just a little. no big deal. is that kind > of normal in an IRS? > > Frank From dave1massey at cs.com Mon Apr 15 13:05:26 2013 From: dave1massey at cs.com (Dave Massey) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2013 15:05:26 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 performance In-Reply-To: <1366050440.47795.YahooMailClassic@web120006.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1366050440.47795.YahooMailClassic@web120006.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8D00823527DA703-B04-5B102@webmail-vd004.sysops.aol.com> There are a lot of little things that can cause this behaviour. Worn trailing arm bushings are one. a sticky spline shaft can also cause the car to behave like this. Soft shocks, especially where one shock absorber is softer than the one on the other side will also do this. Alignment is also critical on an IRS vehicle. On the TR3 or any solid axle car the two tires will be pointing in the same direction no matter what. Not so with the TR6. And since the camber changes with wheel movement any inconsistencies will present themselves if the suspension is exercised. But when it is set up properly the TR6 should behave quite predictably. I've done all that and my car has no tendency to sidestep on bumps. But I have poly bushings, telescopic shock conversion, uprated springs and, most importantly, a four wheel alignment. A related aside, when I first got my car it had a terrible tendency to want to sidestep on bumps. When I did a major overhaul I found that a PO had installed a RH trunnion and vertical link on the left side. Collision repair since there was a RH trunion and vertical on the right side as well. Once I sorted that out the car rode much better. The four wheel alignment was also a noticeable improvement. But do everything else before you get the alignment since changing bushings will throw the alignment out. Dave Massey -----Original Message----- From: Frank Fisher drove my friends TR6 the other day and gave it a bit of stick. lots of fun. loved the car. but i did not feel it was any great improvement over my TR3. the one thing i did find a little funy was the way the back end moved around. when driving realativly staright if i drove over say a crack in the road the back would kind of jump to one side..just a little. no big deal. is that kind of normal in an IRS? Frank From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Apr 15 13:21:47 2013 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2013 15:21:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Accelerator shaft bushings In-Reply-To: <516C46ED.8030906@adelphia.net> References: <000601ce39f2$ac8c0750$05a415f0$@net> <516C46ED.8030906@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <15AD305246B8465E9507EA16C3A26C32@DellLaptop> +1 on Art's kit...... especially seeing as I'm the guy who got him to make the first one! It's probably the easiest to do with the engine in place. The bushings are made from Delrin which basically lasts forever and the design insures nothing will every fall apart. You can see how it's installed here: http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/AcceleratorShaft.htm Another cause of a sticky throttle is the carb linkage so here's how I clean and lube it: http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/ControlRod.htm Bob www.TR6.Danielsonfamily.org 1975 Mimosa TR6 with: Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff CVJs And more.... -----Original Message----- From: Bob Labuz Sent: Monday, April 15, 2013 2:29 PM To: Dennis Culligan Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Accelerator shaft bushings Dennis, I used the bushing replacement kit provided by Art Lipp. Hist email is lipp04 at yahoo.com. Not sure how hard to do with engine in place. Bob On 04/15/2013 12:02 PM, Dennis Culligan wrote: > After having my accelerator stick (why does it always stick ON and not > OFF?), it appears I may need to replace the accelerator shaft bushings on > my > TR6 (all other parts of the carb linkages are new and/or not sticking or > hanging up) . I have looked at both the MOSS catalog (part # 676-000 > along > with the Supplemental Info and Instructions) and the TRF website (parts # > 138490 (nylon) and 138490/U (urethane)). I also have a copy of the > article > "Fabricating East-to-Install Accelerator Shaft Bearings" from the Buckeye > Triumphs site. I have a pretty good idea how difficult these > bearings/bushings will be to install especially since the engine is in the > car and it's not coming out. My questions are: Can I presume that at > almost > 3x the price of the nylon bushing, the TRF urethane bushing will last 3x > as > long? Will the Urethane bushing be even more difficult to install? If I > know a machinist that can fabricate the parts, is brass the best way to > go? > Any other bright ideas? I do NOT want to have to do this again. Thanks > for > your insight and any help you can provide. > > Dennis Culligan. Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U (with a new windshield > ("I > can see clearly now.")) ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From keithstewart at execulink.com Mon Apr 15 13:09:54 2013 From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2013 15:09:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Accelerator shaft bushings In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5AC54DA3-9227-4ED8-8715-4B1B35EFB462@execulink.com> On Mon, 15 Apr 2013, at 12:02 PM, Dennis Culligan wrote: > If I know a machinist that can fabricate the parts, is brass the best way to go? > Any other bright ideas? I do NOT want to have to do this again. You might try Art Lipp. He makes a bushing kit for the accelerator shaft. His email address is: lipp04 at yahoo.com Keith Stewart keithstewart at execulink.com From McGaheyRx at aol.com Mon Apr 15 13:31:51 2013 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2013 15:31:51 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 performance Message-ID: <16c59b.d7cb9fe.3e9dafa7@aol.com> In a message dated 4/15/2013 2:39:42 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, yellowtr3 at yahoo.com writes: the one thing i did find a little funy was the way the back end moved around. when driving realativly staright if i drove over say a crack in the road the back would kind of jump to one side..just a little. no big deal. is that kind of normal in an IRS? NO - NOT NORMAL AT ALL i think others have already posted a few of the many things that could cause that At this stage in the life of these cars, I think its utterly invalid to draw any conclusions about the differences between 2 models based on a comparison of only a few, or even several, examples of each. Handling, and certainly power and torque, will vary widely between different cars within the same model as a result of differences between the state of maintenance, tune, and upgrades on each car. This seems to obvious to post, but there it is anyway. Cheers, Jack Mc From dctr6 at optonline.net Mon Apr 15 13:43:02 2013 From: dctr6 at optonline.net (Dennis Culligan) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2013 15:43:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] Thanks all (was FW: TR6 Accelerator shaft bushings) Message-ID: <000901ce3a11$71c42ca0$554c85e0$@net> OK, OK, I've gotten numerous responses and they are all saying the same thing - Art Lipp's Delrin accelerator shaft bushings. I've written a check and it will be in the mail tomorrow. Thanks list (and thanks to Mark Bradakis for making all this possible). Dennis Culligan, Highland NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U (soon to have Delrin bushings). From: Dennis Culligan [mailto:dctr6 at optonline.net] Sent: Monday, April 15, 2013 12:03 PM To: '6pack at autox.team.net'; 'triumphs at autox.team.net' Subject: TR6 Accelerator shaft bushings After having my accelerator stick (why does it always stick ON and not OFF?), it appears I may need to replace the accelerator shaft bushings on my TR6 (all other parts of the carb linkages are new and/or not sticking or hanging up) . I have looked at both the MOSS catalog (part # 676-000 along with the Supplemental Info and Instructions) and the TRF website (parts # 138490 (nylon) and 138490/U (urethane)). I also have a copy of the article "Fabricating East-to-Install Accelerator Shaft Bearings" from the Buckeye Triumphs site. I have a pretty good idea how difficult these bearings/bushings will be to install especially since the engine is in the car and it's not coming out. My questions are: Can I presume that at almost 3x the price of the nylon bushing, the TRF urethane bushing will last 3x as long? Will the Urethane bushing be even more difficult to install? If I know a machinist that can fabricate the parts, is brass the best way to go? Any other bright ideas? I do NOT want to have to do this again. Thanks for your insight and any help you can provide. Dennis Culligan. Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U (with a new windshield ("I can see clearly now.")) From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Mon Apr 15 13:54:46 2013 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2013 12:54:46 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 performance In-Reply-To: <516C4D20.4010509@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <1366055686.84640.YahooMailClassic@web120002.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> the rear suspension is stock. --- On Mon, 4/15/13, Bob Labuz wrote: From: Bob Labuz Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 performance To: "Frank Fisher" Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Date: Monday, April 15, 2013, 6:55 PM Frank, I have to agree on the performance. Both my 3 and 4 seem to have a bit more between 2 and 3k than the 6. The 6 doesnt seem to get it on until about 3200 or so. The 3 is an 87MM engine. Both the 4 and 6 are stock. I use the same gas (premium without alcohol). All have Bell exhaust systems, SU carbs, stock ignition. As far as the hop in the 6, I have never noticed it. Did your 6 have a stock rear suspension? It does squat a bit on hard acceleration. As far as light rear ends, my 63 4 seems to be the lightest. Bob On 04/15/2013 02:27 PM, Frank Fisher wrote: > drove my friends TR6 the other day and gave it a bit of stick. > lots of fun. loved the car. > but i did not feel it was any great improvement over my TR3. > the one thing i did find a little funy was the way the back end moved around. > when driving realativly staright if i drove over say a crack in the road the > back would kind of jump to one side..just a little. no big deal. is that kind > of normal in an IRS? > Frank From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Mon Apr 15 13:58:05 2013 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2013 12:58:05 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 performance In-Reply-To: <8D00823527DA703-B04-5B102@webmail-vd004.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <1366055885.29705.YahooMailClassic@web120004.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> ill pass the suggestion on. thanks Dave --- On Mon, 4/15/13, Dave Massey wrote: From: Dave Massey Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 performance To: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com, triumphs at autox.team.net Date: Monday, April 15, 2013, 7:05 PM There are a lot of little things that can cause this behaviour. Worn trailing arm bushings are one. a sticky spline shaft can also cause the car to behave like this. Soft shocks, especially where one shock absorber is softer than the one on the other side will also do this. Alignment is also critical on an IRS vehicle. On the TR3 or any solid axle car the two tires will be pointing in the same direction no matter what. Not so with the TR6. And since the camber changes with wheel movement any inconsistencies will present themselves if the suspension is exercised. But when it is set up properly the TR6 should behave quite predictably. I've done all that and my car has no tendency to sidestep on bumps. But I have poly bushings, telescopic shock conversion, uprated springs and, most importantly, a four wheel alignment. A related aside, when I first got my car it had a terrible tendency to want to sidestep on bumps. When I did a major overhaul I found that a PO had installed a RH trunnion and vertical link on the left side. Collision repair since there was a RH trunion and vertical on the right side as well. Once I sorted that out the car rode much better. The four wheel alignment was also a noticeable improvement. But do everything else before you get the alignment since changing bushings will throw the alignment out. Dave Massey -----Original Message----- From: Frank Fisher drove my friends TR6 the other day and gave it a bit of stick. lots of fun. loved the car. but i did not feel it was any great improvement over my TR3. the one thing i did find a little funy was the way the back end moved around. when driving realativly staright if i drove over say a crack in the road the back would kind of jump to one side..just a little. no big deal. is that kind of normal in an IRS? Frank From levilevi at comcast.net Mon Apr 15 14:10:09 2013 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud R) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2013 14:10:09 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR6 performance In-Reply-To: <1366050440.47795.YahooMailClassic@web120006.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1366050440.47795.YahooMailClassic@web120006.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: If the handling has gotten to the point that it needs work maybe the engine tuning has been neglected and is also needing work. Bud Rolofson Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) On Apr 15, 2013, at 12:27 PM, Frank Fisher wrote: > drove my friends TR6 the other day and gave it a bit of stick. > lots of fun. loved the car. > but i did not feel it was any great improvement over my TR3. > the one thing i did find a little funy was the way the back end > moved around. > when driving realativly staright if i drove over say a crack in the > road the > back would kind of jump to one side..just a little. no big deal. is > that kind > of normal in an IRS? > > Frank > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Mon Apr 15 14:52:59 2013 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2013 13:52:59 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 performance In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1366059179.10534.YahooMailClassic@web120005.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> nah! the motor is good. we have been working on the car for some time now. the carbs where rebuilt not a month ago. compression is good. all electricals new or checked. overdrive working real well. --- On Mon, 4/15/13, Bud R wrote: From: Bud R Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 performance To: "Frank Fisher" Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Date: Monday, April 15, 2013, 8:10 PM If the handling has gotten to the point that it needs work maybe the engine tuning has been neglected and is also needing work. Bud Rolofson Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) On Apr 15, 2013, at 12:27 PM, Frank Fisher wrote: drove my friends TR6 the other day and gave it a bit of stick. lots of fun. loved the car. but i did not feel it was any great improvement over my TR3. the one thing i did find a little funy was the way the back end moved around. when driving realativly staright if i drove over say a crack in the road the back would kind of jump to one side..just a little. no big deal. is that kind of normal in an IRS? Frank ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net From glemon at neb.rr.com Mon Apr 15 19:20:33 2013 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (glemon at neb.rr.com) Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2013 1:20:33 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR6 Accelerator shaft bushings In-Reply-To: <5AC54DA3-9227-4ED8-8715-4B1B35EFB462@execulink.com> Message-ID: <20130416012033.JWJGD.55299.root@hrndva-web16-z01> Good to know there is a commercially available product that works for the bushings. I tried the ones from the Roadster Factory and no combination of warming it to make it soft lubrication force and finally some trimming could get them in. I am by no means the best mechanic but am pretty dogged and persistent. I gave up and spent much less time fabricating a couple washers welded to some steel tube. Has worked fine for a couple years. Greg Lemon From auprichard at uprichard.net Mon Apr 15 20:23:42 2013 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2013 22:23:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Accelerator shaft bushings In-Reply-To: <20130416012033.JWJGD.55299.root@hrndva-web16-z01> References: <5AC54DA3-9227-4ED8-8715-4B1B35EFB462@execulink.com> <20130416012033.JWJGD.55299.root@hrndva-web16-z01> Message-ID: <000601ce3a49$6b633350$422999f0$@uprichard.net> Reminds me of the three little rubber pieces which support the wiper motor on the TR3. Not sure that I've ever managed to put them in without slicing them first. Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of glemon at neb.rr.com Sent: Monday, April 15, 2013 9:21 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Accelerator shaft bushings Good to know there is a commercially available product that works for the bushings. I tried the ones from the Roadster Factory and no combination of warming it to make it soft lubrication force and finally some trimming could get them in. I am by no means the best mechanic but am pretty dogged and persistent. I gave up and spent much less time fabricating a couple washers welded to some steel tube. Has worked fine for a couple years. Greg Lemon ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From wbeech at flash.net Tue Apr 16 08:23:16 2013 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2013 09:23:16 -0500 Subject: [TR] Electric Fuel Pump Placement? Message-ID: Have decided that I am going to use an electric FP on the TR3B that is currently under construction. Right now, I have engine in frame and have successfully had a couple of test starts using just the fuel in the float bowls. Next step is get the fuel lines installed back to where the tank will someday be located. To that end, I was wondering that the collective wisdom is on the location of an electric FP? 1. Engine compartment seem logical to me although just south of the tank seems good too, if a bit out of the way. 2. Frame or Body mounting? 3. Firewall or inner fender? 4. Mount in former mechanical FP location? 5. Anyone able to hide the electric FP and route the line through the old mechanical FP for authenticity? 6. Any other tips on usage or connections? Any advice or cautions from you who have BTDT are greatly appreciated. Thanks, Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby" '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab) www.triumphowners.com/1566 '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" "Even if you are on the right track, you'll get run over if you just sit there" Will Rodgers From yellowtr at adelphia.net Tue Apr 16 08:38:32 2013 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2013 10:38:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] Electric Fuel Pump Placement? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <516D6268.5060503@adelphia.net> Bill, This was discussed a few years back and the majority feel the electric pump is best mounted as close to the gas tank outlet as possible. So I mounted my pump on the 3 sort of in the outside lower back of the spare tire compartment on the drivers side. I made a 2 wire harness that runs down the drivers compartment and out one of the rubber plugs beside the gas tank. I used Lucar connections on the pump wiring covered with that exterior wire harness plastic available at any FLAPS on the harness as it exits the body. I replaced the fuel pump with one of those blanking plates made by one of the members here and then on top of that, I made a steel plate for a fuel regulator. Inline filter before the pump and before the regulator. Output of regulator to the standard fuel line (minus the fuel pump fitting). Power comes from the coil. Some members have left the fuel pump in, but since it was always a PITA always leaking etc., I decided to replace with a blank and regulator. Others have installed some sort of cut off switch between power and the pump to turn off power in case of an accident. I went with the FACET pump on my 3,4 and 6 and they work great. Bob On 04/16/2013 10:23 AM, wbeech at flash.net wrote: > Have decided that I am going to use an electric FP on the TR3B that is > currently under construction. Right now, I have engine in frame and have > successfully had a couple of test starts using just the fuel in the float > bowls. Next step is get the fuel lines installed back to where the ta > will someday be located. > > To that end, I was wondering that the collective wisdom is on the location > of an electric FP? > 1. Engine compartment seem logical to me although just south of the tank > seems good too, if a bit out of the way. > 2. Frame or Body mounting? > 3. Firewall or inner fender? > 4. Mount in former mechanical FP location? > 5. Anyone able to hide the electric FP and route the line through the old > mechanical FP for authenticity? > 6. Any other tips on usage or connections? > > Any advice or cautions from you who have BTDT are greatly appreciated. > > Thanks, > Bill From spitlist at cox.net Tue Apr 16 09:19:19 2013 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2013 08:19:19 -0700 Subject: [TR] Electric Fuel Pump Placement? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <9213DD6D6ADC489F844CC183A5E07A86@Vista> Whatever you do, be sure to shock mount the pump to keep the vibration from being amplified by the body or frame where it is mounted. They are loud enough without helping it along. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of wbeech at flash.net Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2013 7:23 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Electric Fuel Pump Placement? Have decided that I am going to use an electric FP on the TR3B that is currently under construction. Right now, I have engine in frame and have successfully had a couple of test starts using just the fuel in the float bowls. Next step is get the fuel lines installed back to where the tank will someday be located. To that end, I was wondering that the collective wisdom is on the location of an electric FP? 1. Engine compartment seem logical to me although just south of the tank seems good too, if a bit out of the way. 2. Frame or Body mounting? 3. Firewall or inner fender? 4. Mount in former mechanical FP location? 5. Anyone able to hide the electric FP and route the line through the old mechanical FP for authenticity? 6. Any other tips on usage or connections? Any advice or cautions from you who have BTDT are greatly appreciated. Thanks, Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby" '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab) www.triumphowners.com/1566 '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" "Even if you are on the right track, you'll get run over if you just sit there" Will Rodgers ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Apr 16 09:52:22 2013 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2013 08:52:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] Electric Fuel Pump Placement? In-Reply-To: <9213DD6D6ADC489F844CC183A5E07A86@Vista> Message-ID: > Whatever you do, be sure to shock mount the pump to keep the > vibration from being amplified by the body or frame where it > is mounted. They are loud enough without helping it along. Ditto ! I actually used a double shock mount, with rubber between the pump and a new mounting plate, plus rubber between the plate and the original mounting location (on a Stag). And I could still hear the pump from the driver's seat. -- Randall From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Tue Apr 16 12:10:36 2013 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2013 14:10:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] Electric Fuel Pump Placement? In-Reply-To: References: <9213DD6D6ADC489F844CC183A5E07A86@Vista> Message-ID: I used the facet fuel pump and mounted it via rubber shock mounts to the fuel pump blanking plate on the side of the engine - The hole spacing matched the pump mount spacing almost exactly. I bought some MG exhaust system mounts (with rubber isolators) as I figured they would hold up to the heat from the engine. I'm happy with it and the location made it pretty easy to plumb and wire up. I went to the junkyard and got a few ford taurus inerita switches (left side of the trunk under the cardboard). Since these were originally located inside the car - I bought some TR3 starter solenoid button rubber covers and used that to cover the top of the inertial switch to keep rain and crud out.. i also painted some of the black rubber electrical insulation stuff along the seams for extra protection. So far no issues. On Tue, Apr 16, 2013 at 11:52 AM, Randall wrote: > > Whatever you do, be sure to shock mount the pump to keep the > > vibration from being amplified by the body or frame where it > > is mounted. They are loud enough without helping it along. > > Ditto ! I actually used a double shock mount, with rubber between the pump > and a new mounting plate, plus rubber between the plate and the original > mounting location (on a Stag). And I could still hear the pump from the > driver's seat. > > -- Randall > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ccsimonsen at gmail.com From dctr6 at optonline.net Tue Apr 16 13:31:11 2013 From: dctr6 at optonline.net (Dennis Culligan) Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2013 15:31:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 performance Message-ID: <001201ce3ad8$f38bb790$daa326b0$@net> On Apr 15, 2013, at 12:27 PM, Frank Fisher wrote: >drove my friends TR6 the other day and gave it a bit of stick. >snip >The one thing i did find a little funy was the way the back end moved around. >when driving realativly staright if i drove over say a crack in the road the >back would kind of jump to one side..just a little. no big deal. is that kind >of normal in an IRS? Frank - I have a late 1976 TR6 that I've owned for 24 years. The phenomenon you are experiencing is what I've always called the "TR6 twitch". It seems to happen when the rear end "unloads" after hitting a bump or after a weight shift (like after you've gone around a curve and are straightening the wheel). My car is in very good kit, as they say, and has a tube shock conversion and a rear sway bar. I have no idea what causes this and have gotten quite used to it over the years. I just had some alignment work done and had adjustable trailing arm mounts installed - these should not make a difference but we'll see what happens. Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY/ 1976 TR6 CF57948U From amfoto1 at aol.com Tue Apr 16 14:12:26 2013 From: amfoto1 at aol.com (Alan Myers) Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2013 16:12:26 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Electric Fuel Pump Placement? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8D008F5D94165DE-E24-65E92@webmail-m299.sysops.aol.com> Hi Bill, It's on a TR4 but should be able to do the same on TR3B, if you wish... I mounted a Facet on the inboard side of the LH rear shock bracket. Photo here: http://www.triumphowners.com/collection.cgi?task=PHOTO&photocategoryID=800&se ctionID=111032 (2nd image). Previously I've had electric pumps mounted on body panels and they ARE noisy, even with proper rubber mounting! Putting it on the frame (rubber mounted, too) isolates it a bit better. It's also pretty well hidden behind the shock bracket, plus tucked up where it's pretty unlikely to get hit by anything thrown up from the road. This location is also below the tank, which will give the best results. I rigged it so two hoses from the tank feed a large Fram HPG-1 filter, which in turn feeds the pump. I used stainless braided lines throughout, eliminating all the plain rubber fuel hoses and piping. But you could just as easily keep those original if you prefer. I just blanked off the stock pump location, but I've seen people modify the original to keep it in place, used the Facet to "push" fuel through the original pump. I don't know how they did that. Hopefully someone else can advise. You might want to add a hidden switch to the power circuit.... It's a cheap form of theft protection. You also may need a pressure regulator, depending upon the pressure from the Facet and the carb setup you use. Watch out for the exhaust when locating the pump and filter, and routing the hoses. Just as a precaution, on my car I've wrapped the exhaust pipe nearest the filter and pump, with header wrap. It's a stainless exhaust sys, so I can get away with that. Might not be a good idea to wrap a mild steel exhaust pipe. Cheers! Alan Myers amfoto1 at aol.com San Jose, Calif. TR4 CT17602L http://www.triumphowners.com/640 Triumphest 2009 http://www.flickr.com/photos/amfoto1/collections/72157626673107235/ -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-request To: triumphs Sent: Tue, Apr 16, 2013 11:01 am Subject: Triumphs Digest, Vol 6, Issue 130 ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2013 09:23:16 -0500 From: To: Subject: [TR] Electric Fuel Pump Placement? Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Have decided that I am going to use an electric FP on the TR3B that iscurrently under construction. Right now, I have engine in frame and havesuccessfully had a couple of test starts using just the fuel in the floatbowls. Next step is get the fuel lines installed back to where the tankwill someday be located. To that end, I was wondering that the collective wisdom is on the locationof an electric FP? 1. Engine compartment seem logical to me although just south of the tankseems good too, if a bit out of the way. 2. Frame or Body mounting? 3. Firewall or inner fender? 4. Mount in former mechanical FP location? 5. Anyone able to hide the electric FP and route the line through the oldmechanical FP for authenticity? 6. Any other tips on usage or connections? Any advice or cautions from you who have BTDT are greatly appreciated. Thanks,Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby" '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab) www.triumphowners.com/1566 '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" "Even if you are on the right track, you'll get run over if you just sitthere" Will Rodgers ------------------------------ From jeffn at msystech.com Tue Apr 16 14:55:42 2013 From: jeffn at msystech.com (jeffn at msystech.com) Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2013 20:55:42 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR6: Justin Wagner valve cover Message-ID: I have been looking around to purchase Justin's valve cover for my TR6. It seems like the only place to buy one is some place in England. Does anyone know if it can be purchased directly from Justin, or maybe some other place locally in USA? Thanks, Jeff N. From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Apr 16 15:30:38 2013 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2013 17:30:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6: Justin Wagner valve cover In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I don't think Justin is making the gaskets any more. Bob www.TR6.Danielsonfamily.org 1975 Mimosa TR6 with: Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff CVJs And more.... -----Original Message----- From: jeffn at msystech.com Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2013 4:55 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR6: Justin Wagner valve cover I have been looking around to purchase Justin's valve cover for my TR6. It seems like the only place to buy one is some place in England. Does anyone know if it can be purchased directly from Justin, or maybe some other place locally in USA? Thanks, Jeff N. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From ptegler at verizon.net Tue Apr 16 16:12:19 2013 From: ptegler at verizon.net (ptegler) Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2013 18:12:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6: Justin Wagner valve cover References: Message-ID: <78C5892F91E14A7D903D4DD3119E7145@dragonlairii> I have Justin's gaskets on a couple of my 6's but I haven't seen his tuff around for over a year now. Recently I stumbled upon another source making silicone gaskets for our LBC's (where he started) and now makes them for several other marquees He's a Triumph guy at heart.... some of you might know him...Steve Downing?.... with the supercharged GT6? gasketinnovations.com I just put one on my TR7 and the fit and finish is perfect. nfi jasc Paul Tegler ptegler at verizon.net www.teglerizer.com ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2013 4:55 PM Subject: [TR] TR6: Justin Wagner valve cover >I have been looking around to purchase Justin's valve cover for my TR6. It >seems like the only place to buy one > is some place in England. Does anyone know if it can be purchased directly > from Justin, or maybe some other place locally in USA? > > > Thanks, > Jeff N. > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net From yellowtr at adelphia.net Tue Apr 16 16:46:25 2013 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2013 18:46:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6: Justin Wagner valve cover In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <516DD4C1.9020308@adelphia.net> Jeff, Justin posted on the 6-pack forum some time last year that his current day job is taking up all his time and will not be making the gaskets anytime soon. It is too bad because the gaskets are top quality. He also mentioned the facility where they were manufactured either moved or closed. I guess I am a lucky one as I have them on my 3, 4 and 6. Bob > I have been looking around to purchase Justin's valve cover for my TR6. It seems like the only place to buy one > is some place in England. Does anyone know if it can be purchased directly from Justin, or maybe some other place locally in USA? > > > Thanks, > Jeff N. From dave at ranteer.com Tue Apr 16 20:08:57 2013 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave at ranteer.com) Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2013 19:08:57 -0700 Subject: [TR] Paint overspray Message-ID: <20130416190857.eacca00412c4e976446146f9b5e47255.ceff8ef326.mailapi@mailapi06.secureserver.net> I'm looking at a car with really nice paint, except! there seems to be some very light overspray on it in a couple places. Like it was in a shop where someone was using a rattle can in the same room, and most of the car was covered. You can even see a distinct line where there was something covering the car. Run your hand over the car, and it goes from smooth where it was covered to rough in the overspray. Has anyone successfully removed what i'll call a dusting of paint successfully? And of course how. The paint otherwise, including these areas, is very nice. Thanks! From glemon at neb.rr.com Tue Apr 16 21:22:20 2013 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2013 22:22:20 -0500 Subject: [TR] Paint overspray In-Reply-To: <20130416190857.eacca00412c4e976446146f9b5e47255.ceff8ef326.mailapi@mailapi06.secureserver.net> References: <20130416190857.eacca00412c4e976446146f9b5e47255.ceff8ef326.mailapi@mailapi06.secureserver.net> Message-ID: <6156750BF8F340EEA717219A6635662C@livingroompc> Here are is an answer, but with some "ifs" and assumptions, if the car was painted with a urethane enamel, and if the overspray is indeed from a simple rattle can enamel or lacquer the overspray should polish of with some light polishing compound pretty easily, as the stuff you are polishing off is much softer than the base coat on the car. If the car looks good I assume the overspray is the same color? or maybe a clearcoat? Even if the overspray is urethane enamel as well it should polish off pretty easily (will take some time and elbow grease but should not be difficult). Anyway, unless it is something nasty hard like por13 or an epoxy primer it should not be a big deal to polish the overspray off, however, without knowing exactly what you are polishing it is hard to say for absolutely sure. Greg Lemon From alansalvy at gmail.com Tue Apr 16 18:07:30 2013 From: alansalvy at gmail.com (alan salvatore) Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2013 20:07:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 performance In-Reply-To: <001201ce3ad8$f38bb790$daa326b0$@net> References: <001201ce3ad8$f38bb790$daa326b0$@net> Message-ID: Sounds like trailing arm bushings are going or gone. That allows the trailing arm to torque to one side under acceleration when shifting giving you the " twitch". I've even had fairly new urethane bushing elongate within a couple of years, I went back to uprated rubber bushings from TRF. Al On Tue, Apr 16, 2013 at 3:31 PM, Dennis Culligan wrote: > On Apr 15, 2013, at 12:27 PM, Frank Fisher wrote: > > >drove my friends TR6 the other day and gave it a bit of stick. > > >snip > > >The one thing i did find a little funy was the way the back end moved > around. > > >when driving realativly staright if i drove over say a crack in the road > the > > >back would kind of jump to one side..just a little. no big deal. is that > kind > > >of normal in an IRS? > > > > Frank - > > I have a late 1976 TR6 that I've owned for 24 years. The phenomenon you > are experiencing is what I've always called the "TR6 twitch". It seems to > happen when the rear end "unloads" after hitting a bump or after a weight > shift (like after you've gone around a curve and are straightening the > wheel). My car is in very good kit, as they say, and has a tube shock > conversion and a rear sway bar. I have no idea what causes this and have > gotten quite used to it over the years. I just had some alignment work done > and had adjustable trailing arm mounts installed - these should not make a > difference but we'll see what happens. > > Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY/ 1976 TR6 CF57948U > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/alansalvy at gmail.com From don.hiscock at gmail.com Tue Apr 16 22:49:01 2013 From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2013 23:49:01 -0500 Subject: [TR] Hazard Fraught tools Message-ID: This is just funny. http://www.kmstools.com/pages/competitor-79 From mark at bradakis.com Tue Apr 16 23:24:07 2013 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2013 23:24:07 -0600 Subject: [TR] Hazard Fraught tools In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <516E31F7.5030205@bradakis.com> I always get a chuckle out of that. Actually something I might dig out is the tool descriptions that Peter Egan wrote up years ago. mjb. From fogbro1 at comcast.net Mon Apr 15 21:46:37 2013 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2013 03:46:37 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR6 Accelerator shaft bushings In-Reply-To: <000601ce3a49$6b633350$422999f0$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <1732848310.1071397.1366083997048.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Contact Art Lipp, lipp04 at yahoo.com for a bushing system that's easy to install and works! NFI and all that, Ed Woods ----- Original Message ----- From: "Andrew Uprichard" To: glemon at neb.rr.com, triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, April 15, 2013 10:23:42 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Accelerator shaft bushings Reminds me of the three little rubber pieces which support the wiper motor on the TR3. B Not sure that I've ever managed to put them in without slicing them first. Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of glemon at neb.rr.com Sent: Monday, April 15, 2013 9:21 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Accelerator shaft bushings Good to know there is a commercially available product that works for the bushings. B I tried the ones from the Roadster Factory and no combination of warming it to make it soft lubrication force and finally some trimming could get them in. B I am by no means the best mechanic but am pretty dogged and persistent. I gave up and spent much less time fabricating a couple washers welded to some steel tube. B Has worked fine for a couple years. B Greg Lemon ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fogbro1 at comcast.net From dlhogye at comcast.net Tue Apr 16 13:19:29 2013 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (davehogye) Date: Tue, 16 Apr 2013 19:19:29 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Electric Fuel Pump Placement? In-Reply-To: <9213DD6D6ADC489F844CC183A5E07A86@Vista> Message-ID: <1425911515.930173.1366139969836.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> I have a Holley fuel pump in my TR3 vintage race car and the thing buzzes and vibrates obnoxiously loud. Even with standoff rubber isolation mounts. I know that the Carter pumps are loud too. I'm going to switch to a Facet cylindrical type pump as soon possible. I've been told that they are very quiet. Dave H. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Curry" To: wbeech at flash.net, triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2013 8:19:19 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Electric Fuel Pump Placement? Whatever you do, be sure to shock mount the pump to keep the vibration from being amplified by the body or frame where it is mounted. They are loud enough without helping it along. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of wbeech at flash.net Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2013 7:23 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Electric Fuel Pump Placement? Have decided that I am going to use an electric FP on the TR3B that is currently under construction. Right now, I have engine in frame and have successfully had a couple of test starts using just the fuel in the float bowls. Next step is get the fuel lines installed back to where the tank will someday be located. To that end, I was wondering that the collective wisdom is on the location of an electric FP? 1. Engine compartment seem logical to me although just south of the tank seems good too, if a bit out of the way. 2. Frame or Body mounting? 3. Firewall or inner fender? 4. Mount in former mechanical FP location? 5. Anyone able to hide the electric FP and route the line through the old mechanical FP for authenticity? 6. Any other tips on usage or connections? Any advice or cautions from you who have BTDT are greatly appreciated. Thanks, Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby" '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab) www.triumphowners.com/1566 '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" "Even if you are on the right track, you'll get run over if you just sit there" Will Rodgers ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlhogye at comcast.net From lendrake at shaw.ca Mon Apr 8 14:53:23 2013 From: lendrake at shaw.ca (Len Drake) Date: Mon, 8 Apr 2013 13:53:23 -0700 Subject: [TR] British Car Upholstery Sale Message-ID: <4A4EC5A7CC9640058F1E8C5BE66E220D@British> Hi Folks - Moss' annual Upholstery Sale started last week and runs through to May 3rd. This is the sale that many of you have been waiting for. Drakes British Motors will be honoring the sale prices offered by Moss to our Canadian customers. To come up with our Canadian price we do the currency conversion (2% this week) then add 6% to the US sale prices which helps to cover freight, brokerage and taxes to get the product into our hands. I'm not aware of any other Canadian supplier that even honors the Moss Motors sale, I think they must like the price reductions so they can put some more coin in their pockets. This sale covers seat kits, carpet sets, panel kits, tops, tonneaus, boot covers, some steering wheels, shift knobs and side curtains, so if the timing is right for you, we have some incredible savings to pass on to you. As most of you probably realize, we adjust our prices every Monday morning to bring them into line with any currency changes. This means that you will continually get your best prices on all your British parts requirements from Drakes. If you would like a quote on any upholstery item, just send us an email and we will get back to you immediately. You can get all of the sale prices at www.mossmotors.com We suggest that you order early, as many of these items will sell out quickly, and later orders may end up backordered. Here are just a few samples of the sale pricing: #244-315 MGB Carpet Set US Reg. Price is $ 234.95. Your cost $ 213.80 Cdn. #641-120 MGB 1962-67 seat kit US Reg. Price is $344.95. Your cost $302.35 Cdn. #639-380 TR4A-TR6 carpet set US Reg. Price is $289.95. Your cost $266.75 Cdn. #489-070 14" wood steering wheel US Reg. Price is $289.95. Your cost $235.40 Cdn. #642-640 73-76 TR6 Black Seat Kit US Reg. Price is $ 584.95. Your cost $ 537.80 Cdn. #640-120 TR6 black Vinyl Top US Reg. Price is $ 369.95. Your cost $ 303.45 Cdn. #246-270 MGA Panel Kit Blk/White US Reg. Price is $ 314.95. Your cost $ 272.15 Cdn. #242-655 MGB 71-80 Vinyl Top US Reg. Price is $309.95. Your cost $285.10 Cdn. We really appreciate the support of our customers from across Canada, and will continually strive to earn your business. Cheers, Len & Scott Drake Drakes British Motors Inc. WWW.DRAKESBRITISHMOTORS.COM phone 250-763-0883 fax 250-861-8051 From greg at gelhar.com Wed Apr 17 01:37:53 2013 From: greg at gelhar.com (greg at gelhar.com) Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2013 03:37:53 -0400 Subject: [TR] Paint overspray In-Reply-To: <20130416190857.eacca00412c4e976446146f9b5e47255.ceff8ef326.mailapi@mailap i06.secureserver.net> References: <20130416190857.eacca00412c4e976446146f9b5e47255.ceff8ef326.mailapi@mailapi06.secureserver.net> Message-ID: <4eba6d432b3b8e0c1f3de6231d13297a.squirrel@email.accountsupport.com> In my garage/ shop, I am the cause for getting paint overspray on my TR6. I have found that using one of the clay bar products easily removes the overspray leaving the car glass smooth each time. Greg G. Osseo, MN > I'm looking at a car with really nice paint, except! there seems to be > some > very light overspray on it in a couple places. Like it was in a shop > where > someone was using a rattle can in the same room, and most of the car was > covered. You can even see a distinct line where there was something > covering > the car. Run your hand over the car, and it goes from smooth where it was > covered to rough in the overspray. > > Has anyone successfully removed what i'll call a dusting of paint > successfully? And of course how. The paint otherwise, including these > areas, > is very nice. > > Thanks! From edwd at ti.com Wed Apr 17 06:23:47 2013 From: edwd at ti.com (Fisher, Ed) Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2013 12:23:47 +0000 Subject: [TR] overspray Message-ID: <67A276399E247245AC2050FC103C4E8A3ED8A365@DLEE12.ent.ti.com> Dave: There are two ways that I have successfully removed overspray. One is to apply a product called Acryliclean, found at body shop supply stores. It is specifically made to remove greases, contaminants, and oversprays. It is virtually effortless. A coat of wax will be required where the product was wiped onto the surface(s). The other method is to use a clay bar, wiped gently onto the surface(s) using copious amounts of water to allow the clay to glide. You can usually find these at decent auto parts stores or online for sure. If the clay sticks you are either pressing too hard or you do not have enough water as a lubricant. The clay will pick up the overspray. Periodic kneading may be required depending on how large an area is affected, and a coat of wax afterwards is recommended. I use clay bars about once every 6 months to remove contaminants from tree sap, bird droppings, acid rain, etc. before polishing sequences to obtain show shines on the collectables. I believe that you will find both methods far easier than you could have imagined. All the best, Ed Fisher Dallas, Tx From fogbro1 at comcast.net Wed Apr 17 07:35:04 2013 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2013 13:35:04 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Electric Fuel Pump Placement? In-Reply-To: <1425911515.930173.1366139969836.JavaMail.root@sz0047a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1601909768.1129262.1366205704946.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> All, I've had the same type of fuel pump on various TR3's and TR4's for over 50 years. Never had a failure, and, if I did, it's mounted right on the side of the engine in plain view and can be reached with a 1/4" drive socket, not from underneath the car, close to the gas tank, where I can't reach it, and can only look at it while waiting for the recovery vehicle . It's very quiet and does not vibrate; at least I cannot hear it above the normal engine and exhaust noises. It requires no wiring or fuses: has no wiring connections that can corrode, get oil soaked, catch fire, B or fall off. It has a glass bowl in which to view the presence or absence of fuel; a built-in filter; and a priming lever. If properly installed, it doesn't leak. It does not present an additional fire hazard, requiring an inertia switch B in case of an accident, because itB ceases to pump fuel B when the engine stops. It was made by AC of England. Well, at least this series of email exchanges didn't call it an "upgrade"! Ed Woods From spitlist at cox.net Wed Apr 17 07:53:40 2013 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2013 06:53:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] overspray In-Reply-To: <67A276399E247245AC2050FC103C4E8A3ED8A365@DLEE12.ent.ti.com> References: <67A276399E247245AC2050FC103C4E8A3ED8A365@DLEE12.ent.ti.com> Message-ID: <4CC6710CE454444CAD74D0B4E971E1E8@Vista> I have been using PPG acryliclean for many years and I can safely say that it will not remove paint. Think about it, the product's main purpose is to remove grease, tar and other foreign matter prior to applying paint. If it would remove paint, then it would not be good for final preparation prior to applying more coats. But if the overspray is some sort of undercoating, it probably will be good for that since most undercoating is made from some form of asphalt. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Fisher, Ed Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2013 5:24 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] overspray Dave: There are two ways that I have successfully removed overspray. One is to apply a product called Acryliclean, found at body shop supply stores. It is specifically made to remove greases, contaminants, and oversprays. It is virtually effortless. A coat of wax will be required where the product was wiped onto the surface(s). The other method is to use a clay bar, wiped gently onto the surface(s) using copious amounts of water to allow the clay to glide. You can usually find these at decent auto parts stores or online for sure. If the clay sticks you are either pressing too hard or you do not have enough water as a lubricant. The clay will pick up the overspray. Periodic kneading may be required depending on how large an area is affected, and a coat of wax afterwards is recommended. I use clay bars about once every 6 months to remove contaminants from tree sap, bird droppings, acid rain, etc. before polishing sequences to obtain show shines on the collectables. I believe that you will find both methods far easier than you could have imagined. All the best, Ed Fisher Dallas, Tx ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net From allenhess at mgcarclub.com Wed Apr 17 07:58:30 2013 From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess) Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2013 09:58:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] Paint overspray In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <89D5E33B-CD9A-4A34-8907-6FC98EFE4B58@mgcarclub.com> Try a clay bar. One time I parked in a restaurant parking lot for a club event. When we came out a guy nearby was spraying his house, wind blowing in my direction. The clay bar worked really well but I never got it all removed from the top. Allen On Apr 17, 2013, at 2:32 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > I'm looking at a car with really nice paint, except! there seems to > be some > very light overspray on it in a couple places. Like it was in a > shop where > someone was using a rattle can in the same room, and most of the car > was > covered. You can even see a distinct line where there was something > covering > the car. Run your hand over the car, and it goes from smooth where > it was > covered to rough in the overspray. > > Has anyone successfully removed what i'll call a dusting of paint > successfully? And of course how. The paint otherwise, including > these areas, > is very nice. From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Apr 17 09:45:14 2013 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2013 08:45:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] Electric Fuel Pump Placement? In-Reply-To: <1601909768.1129262.1366205704946.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <46.1F.02984.883CE615@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> > It has a glass bowl in which to view the > presence or absence of fuel; a built-in filter; You forgot to mention that the filter can be cleaned and reused indefinitely, instead of needing to be replaced every year or two. My luck hasn't been quite as good (or as long) as Ed's; but in almost 40 years of driving a series of more-or-less decrepit TRs, I don't recall ever once having a trip interrupted by a fuel pump problem. Only a small leak now and again, like when I found that the original diaphragms don't stand up to MTBE (and ethanol). By way of contrast, I had only owned my Stag for a year or so, when the electric fuel pump abruptly quit and would have stranded me if I didn't have a spare along. I also have fond memories of riding with a buddy in his MGA, and thumping the electric fuel pump (through the convenient access panel behind the seats) to keep us going down the road. Randall From will.daehler at gmail.com Wed Apr 17 09:46:35 2013 From: will.daehler at gmail.com (Will Daehler) Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2013 11:46:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] HVDA conversion Day 3 Message-ID: <002a01ce3b82$bf0b0200$3d210600$@gmail.com> I am stuck, in unfamiliar territory. I have a TR4, and am using a bent fingered TR6 pressure plate with lightened flywheel of very uncertain pedigree. Shouldn't there be some dowel pins on the flywheel which would serve to perfectly center the pressure plate? I am dry fitting them together, I have six holes in the pressure plate lining up perfectly with the tapped holes in the flywheel. but pressure plate holes are oversized clearance holes. None of the extra smaller diameter holes in the pressure plate line up with any of the extra existing holes in this flywheel. Please advise, should I have a machinist balance and drill me some holes for dowel pins? Or is this plastic clutch alignment tool supposed to work a miracle? Will Daehler 63 TR4 From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Apr 17 10:14:56 2013 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2013 09:14:56 -0700 Subject: [TR] HVDA conversion Day 3 In-Reply-To: <002a01ce3b82$bf0b0200$3d210600$@gmail.com> Message-ID: There should definitely be two precision dowels to locate the pressure plate to the flywheel. Given the uncertainties of using aluminum flywheels anyway, I might be tempted to just replace it, rather than trying to have the machining corrected. Who knows what other flaws are hiding inside? The plastic tool is only for aligning the friction plate to the flywheel (and don't work so well for that either). -- Randall From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed Apr 17 11:55:13 2013 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2013 13:55:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] HVDA conversion Day 3 In-Reply-To: <002a01ce3b82$bf0b0200$3d210600$@gmail.com> References: <002a01ce3b82$bf0b0200$3d210600$@gmail.com> Message-ID: Here's my whole write up on the HVDA installation. You'll even see a link about the "locating" dowels. http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/5Speed.htm Bob www.TR6.Danielsonfamily.org 1975 Mimosa TR6 with: Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff CVJs And more.... -----Original Message----- From: Will Daehler Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2013 11:46 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] HVDA conversion Day 3 I am stuck, in unfamiliar territory. I have a TR4, and am using a bent fingered TR6 pressure plate with lightened flywheel of very uncertain pedigree. Shouldn't there be some dowel pins on the flywheel which would serve to perfectly center the pressure plate? I am dry fitting them together, I have six holes in the pressure plate lining up perfectly with the tapped holes in the flywheel. but pressure plate holes are oversized clearance holes. None of the extra smaller diameter holes in the pressure plate line up with any of the extra existing holes in this flywheel. Please advise, should I have a machinist balance and drill me some holes for dowel pins? Or is this plastic clutch alignment tool supposed to work a miracle? Will Daehler 63 TR4 ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Wed Apr 17 12:05:21 2013 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2013 11:05:21 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Electric Fuel Pump Placement? Message-ID: <1366221921.77224.YahooMailNeo@web180904.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> I have tried various fuel pump locations on my TR3A. I routinely drive my car hard in 100+ degrees in the summer, often while climbing a 4,000 foot grade. Several times I thought the car was vapor locking. I had my electric fuel pump on the left inner fender. I decided to move it lower and mounted it down on the frame below the firewall. It was hard to see and get at and whenever I changed the oil it got all over it. It also got coated with flung oil and road grime. I didn't like it in the trunk either. I ended up mounting it on the underside of the trunk floor upside down. If I want to check it out, I do it with the wheel off when topping off the lever shock. It seems to stay clean and cool and gravity prevents vapor lock. I used to have a NAPA parts fuel pump that ran really smooth and quiet. I accidentally broke the wires off it at the housing, which is the only time the TR didn't make it home on its own power. That was when I had it mounted on the frame at the firewall. I replaced the NAPA pump with a Facet pump and that thing periodically hammers like a jack hammer and I hate it. It also vibrates a lot even with rubber mounts. Next time I am in there I am going to put in a NAPA pump again. Good luck and drive safe. Bill in Tehachapi From: To: Subject: [TR] Electric Fuel Pump Placement? Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Have decided that I am going to use an electric FP on the TR3B that is currently under construction. Right now, I have engine in frame and have successfully had a couple of test starts using just the fuel in the float bowls. Next step is get the fuel lines installed back to where the tank will someday be located. To that end, I was wondering that the collective wisdom is on the location of an electric FP? 1. Engine compartment seem logical to me although just south of the tank seems good too, if a bit out of the way. 2. Frame or Body mounting? 3. Firewall or inner fender? 4. Mount in former mechanical FP location? 5. Anyone able to hide the electric FP and route the line through the old mechanical FP for authenticity? 6. Any other tips on usage or connections? Any advice or cautions from you who have BTDT are greatly appreciated. Thanks, Bill From cak at dimebank.com Wed Apr 17 14:11:44 2013 From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev) Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2013 13:11:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] Electric Fuel Pump Placement? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <516F0200.3000109@dimebank.com> My long-suffering TR4A came to me with a replacement mechanical fuel pump and a pretty bodged engine-compartment plumbing setup. One of the first tasks I undertook was to recreate the hard lines per the manual (I couldn't find a source for the pre-made parts). Then I got to discover what many other TR4A owners had learned: the factory setup leads to vapor lock and hard starting when hot, because the fuel line is in the primary heat soak area above and behind the radiator. And then I experience the classic fuel pump failure, where the cross-shaft comes out and lets the actuating arm drop into the sump. That was way too much fun. Lucky for me, no damage was done. The Competition Prep manual suggested mounting the electric fuel pump in the driver's side rear wheel well, which I did: I put a cylindrical Facet pump on the vertical panel that rises up from the floor to the rear bench, using the rubber mounts. I used as much of the original on-frame plumbing as possible; I installed a toggle switch under the steering column as a kill switch and an in-line fuse. I think that locating the pump near the fuel tank is a good idea, because these pumps really do push better than they pull. I had some experience with these pumps from my GT6+, and I decided that I wanted a filter and regulator. I was also flirting with Italian cars at that time, and they tended to have electric pumps in the rear with a FISPA filter/regulator in the engine compartment. So I mounted one of those on a blanking plate where the original mechanical pump was! I also took this opportunity to run the fuel line to the carbs behind the engine, away from the radiator. This part of the car, at least, has not given me any trouble since :-) chris From tr3a.60 at gmail.com Wed Apr 17 14:42:41 2013 From: tr3a.60 at gmail.com (John Wise) Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2013 16:42:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] Electric Fuel Pump Placement? In-Reply-To: <516F0200.3000109@dimebank.com> References: <516F0200.3000109@dimebank.com> Message-ID: FWIW, in the LBCs that I have owned that had electric fuel pumps (i.e., MGA, MGB, & a Midget), they were all mounted in the rear near the gas tank. I never had a problem with any of them and I owned them all many years. John > I think that locating the pump near the fuel tank is a good idea, because these pumps really do push better than they pull. I had some experience with these pumps from my GT6+, and I decided that I wanted a filter and regulator. I was also flirting with Italian cars at that time, and they tended to have electric pumps in the rear with a FISPA filter/regulator in the engine compartment. So I mounted one of those on a blanking plate where the original mechanical pump was! John Wise Ormond Beach, FL 1960 TR3A http://wisegroupllc.org/_/TR3A.html 1977 Porsche 911S ('86 3.2 engine) http://wisegroupllc.org/_/Porsche.html From aljlthomson at charter.net Wed Apr 17 15:58:39 2013 From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex&Janet Thomson) Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2013 17:58:39 -0400 Subject: [TR] FW: [CTR] 72 Sitfire windshield In-Reply-To: <1365730935.86143.YahooMailRC@web181402.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1365730935.86143.YahooMailRC@web181402.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000001ce3bb6$b7b28620$27179260$@charter.net> From: CTRIUMPH at yahoogroups.com [mailto:CTRIUMPH at yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of WILLIAM KAPLITA Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2013 9:42 PM To: CTRIUMPH at yahoogroups.com Subject: [CTR] 72 Sitfire windshield Is anyone interested in a 1972 Trumph Spitfire winshield frame with bit of the base bellow the fram? BIll __._,_.___ Reply via web post Reply to sender Reply to group Start a New Topic Messages in this topic (1) Recent Activity: Visit Your Group For latest CTR info visit the CTR WEBPAGE click here: http://www.CTRIUMPH.com Shortcut to CTR eGroup Home Page click here: http://www.yahoogroups.com/community/CTRIUMPH To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: CTRIUMPH-unsubscribe at yahoogroups.com Continue the Legend........... Yahoo! Groups Switch to: Text-Only, Daily Digest . Unsubscribe . Terms of Use . Send us Feedback . __,_._,___ From aljlthomson at charter.net Wed Apr 17 18:36:16 2013 From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex&Janet Thomson) Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2013 20:36:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] FW: [CTR] 72 Sitfire windshield In-Reply-To: <1365730935.86143.YahooMailRC@web181402.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1365730935.86143.YahooMailRC@web181402.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <001201ce3bcc$bc8c1fb0$35a45f10$@charter.net> Listers - I am not exactly sure what Bill Kaplita has for sale here. Please reply directly to him at jkaplita at snet.net Thanks. Alex Thomson Connecticut Triumph Register From: CTRIUMPH at yahoogroups.com [mailto:CTRIUMPH at yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of WILLIAM KAPLITA Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2013 9:42 PM To: CTRIUMPH at yahoogroups.com Subject: [CTR] 72 Sitfire windshield Is anyone interested in a 1972 Trumph Spitfire winshield frame with bit of the base bellow the fram? BIll __._,_.___ Reply via web post Reply to sender Reply to group Start a New Topic Messages in this topic (1) Recent Activity: Visit Your Group For latest CTR info visit the CTR WEBPAGE click here: http://www.CTRIUMPH.com Shortcut to CTR eGroup Home Page click here: http://www.yahoogroups.com/community/CTRIUMPH To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: CTRIUMPH-unsubscribe at yahoogroups.com Continue the Legend........... Yahoo! Groups Switch to: Text-Only, Daily Digest . Unsubscribe . Terms of Use . Send us Feedback . __,_._,___ From fishplate at charter.net Thu Apr 18 19:39:30 2013 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff) Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2013 21:39:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Accelerator shaft bushings In-Reply-To: <20130416012033.JWJGD.55299.root@hrndva-web16-z01> References: <20130416012033.JWJGD.55299.root@hrndva-web16-z01> Message-ID: <5170A052.2090603@charter.net> On 4/15/2013 9:20 PM, glemon at neb.rr.com wrote: > I tried the ones from the Roadster Factory and no combination of warming it to make it soft lubrication force and finally some trimming could get them in. I am by no means the best mechanic but am pretty dogged and persistent. I got mine in. Perhaps you needed to hire a sailor to do some swearing for you? Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. From mark at bradakis.com Thu Apr 18 19:48:17 2013 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2013 19:48:17 -0600 Subject: [TR] Stupid Yahoo Message-ID: <5170A261.1090404@bradakis.com> Yahoo is clueless: Apr 17 12:00:42 autox postfix/qmgr[1917]: 561C142EF0: to=, relay=none, delay=267409, delays=267409/0.16/0/0, dsn=4.7.0, status=deferred (delivery temporarily suspended: host mta6.am0.yahoodns.net[74.6.136.244] refused to talk to me: 421 4.7.0 [TS01] Messages from 166.70.156.34 temporarily deferred due to user complaints - 4.16.55.1; seehttp://postmaster.yahoo.com/421-ts01.html) So if you are a yahoo subscriber you are no longer getting Team.Net mail. mjb. From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Apr 18 21:36:38 2013 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2013 20:36:38 -0700 Subject: [TR] Stupid Yahoo In-Reply-To: <5170A261.1090404@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <15.74.02984.0CBB0715@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> > Messages from 166.70.156.34 temporarily > deferred due to user complaints - Mebbe it's not Yahoo ... Randall From mark at bradakis.com Thu Apr 18 22:54:45 2013 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2013 22:54:45 -0600 Subject: [TR] Stupid Yahoo In-Reply-To: <15.74.02984.0CBB0715@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> References: <15.74.02984.0CBB0715@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> Message-ID: <5170CE15.4040802@bradakis.com> Randall wrote: >> Messages from 166.70.156.34 temporarily >> deferred due to user complaints - > Mebbe it's not Yahoo ... > > Well since Yahoo seems to have no facility whatsoever for me to find out why it is happening and what I can do to stop it or just contact a real person, I'll keep claiming Yahoo is stupid. mjb. From dconnitt at fuse.net Fri Apr 19 11:49:10 2013 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2013 13:49:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] Question about installing a backup light switch in a TR4A Message-ID: List, Is there some way of installing a backup switch in my TR4A transmission without drilling and tapping holes or whatever..? I keep forgetting to ask this. I saw that Moss sells the switch but I have no Idea where it goes. Thanks, Dave Connitt From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Fri Apr 19 12:01:24 2013 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2013 14:01:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] Stupid Yahoo In-Reply-To: <5170CE15.4040802@bradakis.com> References: <15.74.02984.0CBB0715@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> <5170CE15.4040802@bradakis.com> Message-ID: Wonder if its another case of reporting spam by accident vs deleting.... On Apr 19, 2013 12:52 AM, "Mark J Bradakis" wrote: > Randall wrote: > >> Messages from 166.70.156.34 temporarily >>> deferred due to user complaints - >>> >> Mebbe it's not Yahoo ... >> >> >> > Well since Yahoo seems to have no facility whatsoever for me to find out > why it is > happening and what I can do to stop it or just contact a real person, I'll > keep > claiming Yahoo is stupid. > > mjb. > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > options/triumphs/ccsimonsen@**gmail.com From yellowtr at adelphia.net Fri Apr 19 13:01:15 2013 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2013 15:01:15 -0400 Subject: [TR] Question about installing a backup light switch in a TR4A In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5171947B.4090802@adelphia.net> Dave, You might want to see if you can source a TR6 transmission or just the shifter portion. It has the switches you need. I see 6 transmissions for sale on Eban and CL all the time for 50 to 75 bucks. Bob On 04/19/2013 01:49 PM, Dave Connitt wrote: > List, > Is there some way of installing a backup switch in my TR4A transmission > without drilling and tapping holes or whatever..? > I keep forgetting to ask this. I saw that Moss sells the switch but I have no > Idea where it goes. > Thanks, > Dave Connitt From glemon at neb.rr.com Fri Apr 19 22:25:44 2013 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Fri, 19 Apr 2013 23:25:44 -0500 Subject: [TR] Question about installing a backup light switch in a TR4A In-Reply-To: <5171947B.4090802@adelphia.net> References: <5171947B.4090802@adelphia.net> Message-ID: The switches are not too hard to install, just make sure you get the drill bit centered with a punch when you start, then you need to tap it for the right size threads, I think I got a set of three of the right size taps on e-bay when I did the overdrive switch on mine (same idea, different location) so if you decide to go this route let me know, I have two and maybe three of these taps I will never use again. If you choose not to go this route you could do something like I had on my BGT way back when a simple on/off switch under the dash to turn on the back up lights, if you are doing it to be seen you probably the manual switch isn't the way to go (you'll forget to use it half the time), if you are doing it to see better when you back up (long dark driveway or whatever) which was the purpose on my BGT, it works pretty well, cause if you can't see when backing up the light bulb goes off in your head and you turn it on. Course I often people would honk and flick their headlights at me, doh, forgot to turn the back up light off. Greg Lemon From jagmog at hotmail.com Sat Apr 20 08:02:32 2013 From: jagmog at hotmail.com (Jonas Payne) Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2013 07:02:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] Help - I Need a Vehicle Inspection in Garden Grove CA Message-ID: My dad bid on and won a 1969 Jag E type in Garden Grove CA last night. We need to do a vehicle inspection Today/Tomorrow AM. I can drive out or fly out from Las Vegas to do it, but would prefer not to. Is there anybody on the list who lives nearby that would be interested/qualified to do an inspection? We'd be happy to compensate. Please call me if interested. Jonas Payne PBR Consulting 702-882-6711 From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sat Apr 20 13:23:28 2013 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2013 14:23:28 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] speedo/tachometer repair Message-ID: <12547736.1552520.1366485808993.JavaMail.root@vznit170128> What is the current recommendations for gauge repair. I tried emailing Mo-Ma but it bounced. Thanks C Carl 1961 TR3A - TS81802LO mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a Tampa, Florida From auprichard at uprichard.net Sat Apr 20 17:49:31 2013 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2013 19:49:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] speedo/tachometer repair In-Reply-To: <12547736.1552520.1366485808993.JavaMail.root@vznit170128> References: <12547736.1552520.1366485808993.JavaMail.root@vznit170128> Message-ID: <00b101ce3e21$b56151e0$2023f5a0$@uprichard.net> On my fifth restoration and always used Nisonger in NY. Never been disappointed. Andrew -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl TR Sent: Saturday, April 20, 2013 3:23 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] speedo/tachometer repair What is the current recommendations for gauge repair. I tried emailing Mo-Ma but it bounced. Thanks C Carl 1961 TR3A - TS81802LO mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a Tampa, Florida ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From auprichard at uprichard.net Sat Apr 20 17:52:50 2013 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2013 19:52:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] Gas tak breather Message-ID: <00b201ce3e22$2b7c4e20$8274ea60$@uprichard.net> List: Just got around to stripping the latest restoration project and have a question. This TR3 has an attractive aluminum gas tank, but the breather tube is broken where it attached to the tank itself - the banjo bolt was lying loose and there is a hole atop the tank. If the gas cap has a hole in it, how important is it to have the breather tube? Andrew Uprichard From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Apr 20 18:10:08 2013 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2013 20:10:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] speedo/tachometer repair In-Reply-To: <12547736.1552520.1366485808993.JavaMail.root@vznit170128> References: <12547736.1552520.1366485808993.JavaMail.root@vznit170128> Message-ID: <7ECD6ACFFAA14689B2C78CD33F6D72CE@DellLaptop> The 6-Pack gang have mostly moved to Morris at West Valley (http://westvalleyinstruments.com/) for great work, fair prices and fast turn around time. Bob www.TR6.Danielsonfamily.org 1975 Mimosa TR6 with: Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff CVJs And more.... -----Original Message----- From: Carl TR Sent: Saturday, April 20, 2013 3:23 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] speedo/tachometer repair What is the current recommendations for gauge repair. I tried emailing Mo-Ma but it bounced. Thanks C Carl 1961 TR3A - TS81802LO mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a Tampa, Florida ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From wbeech at flash.net Sat Apr 20 18:06:33 2013 From: wbeech at flash.net (WBEECH) Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2013 19:06:33 -0500 Subject: [TR] Gas tak breather In-Reply-To: <00b201ce3e22$2b7c4e20$8274ea60$@uprichard.net> References: <00b201ce3e22$2b7c4e20$8274ea60$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <48ED7995-AE5A-41CB-BD81-B138A70ACA1A@flash.net> Your gas cap has a hole in it? Must not be stock. If it is vented, the breather pipe should be unnecessary. Sent from my iPhone On Apr 20, 2013, at 6:52 PM, "Andrew Uprichard" wrote: > List: > > Just got around to stripping the latest restoration project and have a > question. > > This TR3 has an attractive aluminum gas tank, but the breather tube is > broken where it attached to the tank itself - the banjo bolt was lying loose > and there is a hole atop the tank. If the gas cap has a hole in it, how > important is it to have the breather tube? > > Andrew Uprichard > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From greg at gelhar.com Sat Apr 20 19:39:41 2013 From: greg at gelhar.com (greg at gelhar.com) Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2013 21:39:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] Gas tak breather In-Reply-To: <00b201ce3e22$2b7c4e20$8274ea60$@uprichard.net> References: <00b201ce3e22$2b7c4e20$8274ea60$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: If the gas cap is vented, the original vent is not needed. The old vent hole should be sealed to eliminate fumes and smell inside the cockpit. Greg G. Osseo, MN > List: > > Just got around to stripping the latest restoration project and have a > question. > > This TR3 has an attractive aluminum gas tank, but the breather tube is > broken where it attached to the tank itself - the banjo bolt was lying > loose > and there is a hole atop the tank. If the gas cap has a hole in it, how > important is it to have the breather tube? > > Andrew Uprichard From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Apr 21 06:25:26 2013 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2013 05:25:26 -0700 Subject: [TR] Gas tak breather In-Reply-To: <48ED7995-AE5A-41CB-BD81-B138A70ACA1A@flash.net> Message-ID: <08.FB.04559.BAAD3715@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> > Your gas cap has a hole in it? Must not be stock. Every TR3 cap that I have had, had a hole that appeared to be original. Including the one kindly sent to me by a lister after the original got stolen on my previous TR3A. Not through the chrome part, obviously, but the inner plate that actually covers the opening to the tank. http://goo.gl/y5uCn And I've been blocking off the tank vent since about 1975, when I noticed that it dumped raw fuel onto the road when turning left with a full tank. No apparent ill effects, even running at full throttle for extended periods of time. Randall From fogbro1 at comcast.net Sun Apr 21 10:46:41 2013 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2013 16:46:41 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Gas tak breather In-Reply-To: <08.FB.04559.BAAD3715@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> Message-ID: <796872111.1283077.1366562801830.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> ----- Original Message ----- Randall, There you go again, confusing us all with facts again! Ed > Your gas cap has a hole in it? B Must not B be stock. B Every TR3 cap that I have had, had a hole that appeared to be original. Including the one kindly sent to me by a lister after the original got stolen on my previous TR3A. B Not through the chrome part, obviously, but the inner plate that actually covers the opening to the tank. http://goo.gl/y5uCn And I've been blocking off the tank vent since about 1975, when I noticed that it dumped raw fuel onto the road when turning left with a full tank. No apparent ill effects, even running at full throttle for extended periods of time. Randall From dave at ranteer.com Sun Apr 21 11:34:52 2013 From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave) Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2013 12:34:52 -0500 Subject: [TR] starter motor? Message-ID: <1F07FDF8CEED45919B40BB189BFD7F6C@Datsun> I have 3 batteries, and they are ALL heavy!!!!! one came with this car, acquired a few weeks ago, dated 11/11. after charging, my multi meter said it had 12? volts? donbt remember exactly. second battery is one Ibve had for a few years, but worked in another car a couple months ago. charged it all night. third battery is out of my honda. die hard, probably a couple years old, no issues that I can ever remember. the first one turned the engine over, no plugs, as if the battery was very weak. the second turned the engine over, plugs in, as if the battery was very weak. third one turned the engine over, plugs in, as if the battery was very weak. after hoisting so many batteries in and out, I am very weak. Ibm thinking itbs a starter motor? should get it tested/rebuilt? could it just be a bad ground? I should get down there and clean all the contacts? most lights work as does the horn. ammeter looks like it works. no history of the car. was told it ran when parked (didnbt they all???), was told it had been in storage many years; car was restored at some point, is rust free as far as I can tell, but very dirty just from sitting. TR3B From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Sun Apr 21 11:51:51 2013 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2013 13:51:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] starter motor? In-Reply-To: <1F07FDF8CEED45919B40BB189BFD7F6C@Datsun> References: <1F07FDF8CEED45919B40BB189BFD7F6C@Datsun> Message-ID: sounds to me like one of the brushes in your starter may not be making contact. I just helped a friend clean and refurb his starter (TR3). Cleaned the commutator and replaced the brushes. Starts like a champ now. On Sun, Apr 21, 2013 at 1:34 PM, Dave wrote: > I have 3 batteries, and they are ALL heavy!!!!! > > one came with this car, acquired a few weeks ago, dated 11/11. after > charging, my multi meter said it had 12? volts? donb t remember exactly. > > second battery is one Ib ve had for a few years, but worked in another car > a > couple months ago. charged it all night. > > third battery is out of my honda. die hard, probably a couple years old, > no > issues that I can ever remember. > > the first one turned the engine over, no plugs, as if the battery was very > weak. > > the second turned the engine over, plugs in, as if the battery was very > weak. > > third one turned the engine over, plugs in, as if the battery was very > weak. > > after hoisting so many batteries in and out, I am very weak. > > Ib m thinking itb s a starter motor? should get it tested/rebuilt? could > it just be a bad ground? I should get down there and clean all the > contacts? > most lights work as does the horn. ammeter looks like it works. > > no history of the car. was told it ran when parked (didnb t they all???), > was told it had been in storage many years; car was restored at some > point, is > rust free as far as I can tell, but very dirty just from sitting. TR3B > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ccsimonsen at gmail.com From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Sun Apr 21 11:55:46 2013 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2013 10:55:46 -0700 Subject: [TR] starter motor? In-Reply-To: <1F07FDF8CEED45919B40BB189BFD7F6C@Datsun> References: <1F07FDF8CEED45919B40BB189BFD7F6C@Datsun> Message-ID: You might measure the voltage of the battery as it is cranking the engine -- that can tell you a bit more about it's condition. 12V after charging is a bit low and, in any case, doesn't say much. The auto parts places can load test your battery. I wouldn't start taking things apart until I was sure the battery was sound. Geo On Sun, Apr 21, 2013 at 10:34 AM, Dave wrote: > I have 3 batteries, and they are ALL heavy!!!!! > > one came with this car, acquired a few weeks ago, dated 11/11. after > charging, my multi meter said it had 12? volts? donb t remember exactly. > > second battery is one Ib ve had for a few years, but worked in another car > a > couple months ago. charged it all night. > > third battery is out of my honda. die hard, probably a couple years old, > no > issues that I can ever remember. > > the first one turned the engine over, no plugs, as if the battery was very > weak. > > the second turned the engine over, plugs in, as if the battery was very > weak. > > third one turned the engine over, plugs in, as if the battery was very > weak. > > after hoisting so many batteries in and out, I am very weak. > > Ib m thinking itb s a starter motor? should get it tested/rebuilt? could > it just be a bad ground? I should get down there and clean all the > contacts? > most lights work as does the horn. ammeter looks like it works. > > no history of the car. was told it ran when parked (didnb t they all???), > was told it had been in storage many years; car was restored at some > point, is > rust free as far as I can tell, but very dirty just from sitting. TR3B > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com From wbeech at flash.net Sun Apr 21 13:53:55 2013 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2013 14:53:55 -0500 Subject: [TR] starter motor? In-Reply-To: References: <1F07FDF8CEED45919B40BB189BFD7F6C@Datsun> Message-ID: <9AFED428A9A2432D9183542414B1DEA2@bboffice> Are you trying to start it with jumper cables from the battery to the car? I had fresh 1 year old battery, but running good heavy duty jumpers from the battery on the bench to back of the starter and to the engine block as a ground yielded results much like yours. Moved the battery over to the car with good cables securely bolted in place and it starts like a champ. One of many possibilities, Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby" '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab) www.triumphowners.com/1566 '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" "Even if you are on the right track, you'll get run over if you just sit there" Will Rodgers -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Geo Hahn Sent: Sunday, April 21, 2013 12:56 PM To: Dave Cc: Triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] starter motor? You might measure the voltage of the battery as it is cranking the engine -- that can tell you a bit more about it's condition. 12V after charging is a bit low and, in any case, doesn't say much. The auto parts places can load test your battery. I wouldn't start taking things apart until I was sure the battery was sound. Geo On Sun, Apr 21, 2013 at 10:34 AM, Dave wrote: > I have 3 batteries, and they are ALL heavy!!!!! > > one came with this car, acquired a few weeks ago, dated 11/11. after > charging, my multi meter said it had 12? volts? donb t remember exactly. > > second battery is one Ib ve had for a few years, but worked in another > car a couple months ago. charged it all night. > > third battery is out of my honda. die hard, probably a couple years > old, no issues that I can ever remember. > > the first one turned the engine over, no plugs, as if the battery was > very weak. > > the second turned the engine over, plugs in, as if the battery was > very weak. > > third one turned the engine over, plugs in, as if the battery was very > weak. > > after hoisting so many batteries in and out, I am very weak. > > Ib m thinking itb s a starter motor? should get it tested/rebuilt? > could it just be a bad ground? I should get down there and clean all > the contacts? > most lights work as does the horn. ammeter looks like it works. > > no history of the car. was told it ran when parked (didnb t they > all???), was told it had been in storage many years; car was restored > at some point, is rust free as far as I can tell, but very dirty just > from sitting. TR3B > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From WCA09 at aol.com Sun Apr 21 14:41:06 2013 From: WCA09 at aol.com (WCA09 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2013 16:41:06 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Gas tak breather Message-ID: Randall et al, Just checked what I believe to be an original gas cap on my '61 TR3A. The cap is out and disassembled for rechroming. There is no vent hole on the inner plate nor anywhere else that I can find. Just an FYI ... there are apparently a number of versions out there. Bill >> Your gas cap has a hole in it? Must not be stock. > Every TR3 cap that I have had, had a hole that appeared to be original. > Including the one kindly sent to me by a lister after the original got > stolen on my previous TR3A. Not through the chrome part, obviously, but the > inner plate that actually covers the opening to the tank. > http://goo.gl/y5uCn > And I've been blocking off the tank vent since about 1975, when I noticed > that it dumped raw fuel onto the road when turning left with a full tank. > No apparent ill effects, even running at full throttle for extended periods > of time. > Randall From dave at ranteer.com Sun Apr 21 15:25:32 2013 From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave) Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2013 16:25:32 -0500 Subject: [TR] starter motor? In-Reply-To: <9AFED428A9A2432D9183542414B1DEA2@bboffice> References: <1F07FDF8CEED45919B40BB189BFD7F6C@Datsun> <9AFED428A9A2432D9183542414B1DEA2@bboffice> Message-ID: no. each of the three batteries were in the car. -----Original Message----- From: wbeech at flash.net Sent: Sunday, April 21, 2013 2:53 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] starter motor? Are you trying to start it with jumper cables from the battery to the car? I had fresh 1 year old battery, but running good heavy duty jumpers from the battery on the bench to back of the starter and to the engine block as a ground yielded results much like yours. Moved the battery over to the car with good cables securely bolted in place and it starts like a champ. One of many possibilities, Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby" '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab) www.triumphowners.com/1566 '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" "Even if you are on the right track, you'll get run over if you just sit there" Will Rodgers From dave at ranteer.com Sun Apr 21 15:31:43 2013 From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave) Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2013 16:31:43 -0500 Subject: [TR] starter motor? In-Reply-To: References: <1F07FDF8CEED45919B40BB189BFD7F6C@Datsun> Message-ID: (of course) youtube has a video on rebuilding/refreshing your starter http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9EHQJDhxZc0 I wonder sometimes if I could learn brain surgery on youtube . . . -----Original Message----- From: Chris Simo Sent: Sunday, April 21, 2013 12:51 PM To: list Triumph Subject: Re: [TR] starter motor? sounds to me like one of the brushes in your starter may not be making contact. I just helped a friend clean and refurb his starter (TR3). Cleaned the commutator and replaced the brushes. Starts like a champ now. From dave at ranteer.com Sun Apr 21 22:13:50 2013 From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave) Date: Sun, 21 Apr 2013 23:13:50 -0500 Subject: [TR] remove starter motor tr3b Message-ID: <38A7BEF13610438F86BDDC6E8B6A6C5E@Datsun> now that its unbolted and loose - it looks like it has to come up? which means I have to disconnect the linkage between the carbs, and the gas line? choke? From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Mon Apr 22 07:04:26 2013 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 06:04:26 -0700 Subject: [TR] remove starter motor tr3b In-Reply-To: <38A7BEF13610438F86BDDC6E8B6A6C5E@Datsun> References: <38A7BEF13610438F86BDDC6E8B6A6C5E@Datsun> Message-ID: I usually undo the front connection of that (choke) rod that connects the jets and let it drop down. That also frees the choke cable. Connecting fuel line and air cleaners also off as I recall. Probably a bad habit but I just grab hold of the big cable and lift it out tail first by that. Geo On Sun, Apr 21, 2013 at 9:13 PM, Dave wrote: > now that its unbolted and loose - it looks like it has to come up? which > means I have to disconnect the linkage between the carbs, and the gas line? > choke? > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com From spook01 at comcast.net Mon Apr 22 08:14:27 2013 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 09:14:27 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?remove_starter_motor_tr3b?= Message-ID: First, remove the left rear wheel.... Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Dave" To: Subject: [TR] remove starter motor tr3b Date: Sun, Apr 21, 2013 23:13 now that its unbolted and loose - it looks like it has to come up? which means I have to disconnect the linkage between the carbs, and the gas line? choke? ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From wbeech at flash.net Mon Apr 22 08:17:20 2013 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 09:17:20 -0500 Subject: [TR] remove starter motor tr3b In-Reply-To: <38A7BEF13610438F86BDDC6E8B6A6C5E@Datsun> References: <38A7BEF13610438F86BDDC6E8B6A6C5E@Datsun> Message-ID: I just remove the nuts that hold the carbs, put a towel on top of the motor, and roll the carbs up there without disconnecting the choke cable or any linkage other the the lead arm. Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby" '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab) www.triumphowners.com/1566 '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" "Even if you are on the right track, you'll get run over if you just sit there" Will Rodgers -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Sent: Sunday, April 21, 2013 11:14 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] remove starter motor tr3b now that its unbolted and loose - it looks like it has to come up? which means I have to disconnect the linkage between the carbs, and the gas line? choke? ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From bill_beecher at flash.net Mon Apr 22 10:19:23 2013 From: bill_beecher at flash.net (bill_beecher at flash.net) Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 11:19:23 -0500 Subject: [TR] Anyone in North Houston that can look at a car? (Non-TR) Message-ID: Sorry to bomb the list as this is a non-TR project. My daughter is looking at a Mazda on CraigsList that looks like a good car at a fair price but we are 6 hours away. Is there anyone close to Gulf Bond Rd off I-45 that could take a quick drive and assess the car? I would be more than happy to comnpensate for time and expense. Many Thanks, Bill Beecher 435-503-2258 From spamiam at comcast.net Mon Apr 22 10:33:29 2013 From: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 16:33:29 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Moss "Classic Seat" for the TR6 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1208124873.1181233.1366648409073.JavaMail.root@sz0135a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> I have a TR4a with the stock seats.B I find the lack of upper back support tiring on drives longer than 45 minutes.B I see that Moss-Europe has "Classic Seats" with a headrest which fit the TR4a-TR6 range.B They have "regular" and "high back", and the difference looks to be maybe 2" in back height by counting the pleats on the back. Moss USA has a "Classic Seat" listed for the TR6 which is looks to be the same as the Moss-Europe "classic seat", not the "high back" version.B Has anyone installed these seats?B I f you are 6" to 6"-1 and are over 200 lb, how do you find the fit regarding kidney support and height? The cost of the high back seats, shipped from England looks like it will be about $1550 including shipping.B Do es anyone have a guess about the import duty that will be charged?B I assume it will be another $200 or so (price of the s eats is #777).B If these Moss-USA seats are the High back version, then I would definitely get them from here.B I find that some seats on new cars hit my shoulder blades in just the wrong place and are quite uncomfortable, so I probably need to have the "high back" version. It would be nice to have the opportunity to sit in these sats before I buy, but I bet there are few and far between. -Tony From johnhenard at hotmail.com Mon Apr 22 10:33:31 2013 From: johnhenard at hotmail.com (John Henard) Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 12:33:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] Coolant Sediment Removal Message-ID: Morning Lists, Anyone have recommendations for removal of scale/sediments for small piping, intake manifold, t-stat housing etc. when they are off the car? Vinegar soak is the most common treatment I have read. Suggestions? I have had the radiator boiled by a rad shop but had other parts off while doing some repairs. It is for a '71 Spit that did not have regular flushes (yes - shame on me). Thanks for the help, --John Henard From spamiam at comcast.net Mon Apr 22 13:31:30 2013 From: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 19:31:30 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Moss "Classic Seat" for the TR6 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <23844766.1191532.1366659090433.JavaMail.root@sz0135a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Dave, I had considered Miata seats. They do seem to require a different/custom mounting frame and extra holes in the floor pan. I have not seen any seats that are in good shape and have the right color (black, preferably white piping). But this is a good suggestion if I can find the right seats. -Tony ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave" To: spamiam at comcast.net Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 12:51:26 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Moss "Classic Seat" for the TR6 why donbt you put in miata seats? many tr6 people have done this. I believe the early miata (1990?) had speakers in them as well. -----Original Message----- From: spamiam at comcast.net Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 11:33 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Moss "Classic Seat" for the TR6 I have a TR4a with the stock seats.B I find the lack of upper back support tiring on drives longer than 45 minutes.B I see that Moss-Europe has "Classic Seats" with a headrest which fit the TR4a-TR6 range.B They have "regular" and "high back", and the difference looks to be maybe 2" in back height by counting the pleats on the back. Moss USA has a "Classic Seat" listed for the TR6 which is looks to be the same as the Moss-Europe "classic seat", not the "high back" version.B Has anyone installed these seats?B I f you are 6" to 6"-1 and are over 200 lb, how do you find the fit regarding kidney support and height? The cost of the high back seats, shipped from England looks like it will be about $1550 including shipping.B Do es anyone have a guess about the import duty that will be charged?B I assume it will be another $200 or so (price of the s eats is #777).B If these Moss-USA seats are the High back version, then I would definitely get them from here.B I find that some seats on new cars hit my shoulder blades in just the wrong place and are quite uncomfortable, so I probably need to have the "high back" version. It would be nice to have the opportunity to sit in these sats before I buy, but I bet there are few and far between. From darrellw360 at mac.com Mon Apr 22 14:01:26 2013 From: darrellw360 at mac.com (Darrell Walker) Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 13:01:26 -0700 Subject: [TR] Moss "Classic Seat" for the TR6 In-Reply-To: <23844766.1191532.1366659090433.JavaMail.root@sz0135a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <23844766.1191532.1366659090433.JavaMail.root@sz0135a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <78D13026-0CA2-4601-9E98-A279BFFD6856@mac.com> On Apr 22, 2013, at 12:31 PM, spamiam at comcast.net wrote: > Dave, I had considered Miata seats. They do seem to require a different/custom > mounting frame and extra holes in the floor pan. I have not seen any seats > that are in good shape and have the right color (black, preferably white > piping). But this is a good suggestion if I can find the right seats. There are at least two different adapter brackets out there, that won't require you to drill holes in the TR4A. Check out Mr. Mikes for new covers: http://mrmikes.com/miatahome.htm They are pretty easy to install, and you can get black with white piping made. A few of pages regarding installation in a TR6: http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/MiataSeats1.htm http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/PattonMiataBrackets.htm http://www.74tr6.com/miataseats.htm -Darrell -- Darrell Walker 66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L 81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206 Vancouver, WA, USA From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca Mon Apr 22 16:21:34 2013 From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (Art McEwen) Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 18:21:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Starter Solenoid buzzing Message-ID: <5175B7EE.3000509@cogeco.ca> It buzzed a couple of times when I started it up for the season yesterday but it did start. Today all I get is buzzing. I'm assuming there's nothing I can do to fix it (tried hitting it with a ratchet handle already so don't suggest that)? Will an ordinary modern starter solenoid do until my replacement comes? I have a modern Trombetta 12V 3-post solenoid lying around the house, I'm assuming I could only damage it and not anything else if I tried it.... Thanks, Art From morganthedog at twcny.rr.com Mon Apr 22 16:47:17 2013 From: morganthedog at twcny.rr.com (morgan) Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 18:47:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 oil pressure line leak 74 Message-ID: <3A43B0BB7F28401397F5B18B0C1B0304@user43e68274ae> The hard plastic oil gauge line leaks near the engine connection. I wanted to remove the last 2 inches and put the barb fitting back in. No way it will fit. Heat made it too soft too fast. What is the secret? Thanks Jim Fuller Syracuse,NY From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Apr 22 16:59:23 2013 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 22:59:23 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3A Starter Solenoid buzzing In-Reply-To: <5175B7EE.3000509@cogeco.ca> Message-ID: <20130422225923.69EGY.84385.root@cdptpa-web01-z01> ---- Art McEwen wrote: > I'm assuming there's nothing I can do to fix it (tried hitting it with a > ratchet handle already so don't suggest that)? You might want to check that the battery connections are clean and tight; and that the battery itself is in good shape. It's been awhile since I was inside a TR3 solenoid, but I don't recall it having the "buzzer" (aka pull-in coil) that many more modern solenoids have. Your Trombetta solenoid will probably work OK, if it is intended for automotive applications. The cables might not fit though, I believe most of them use 5/16" studs while the original TR3 solenoid was 1/4". Randall From glemon at neb.rr.com Mon Apr 22 17:07:30 2013 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 18:07:30 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 oil pressure line leak 74 In-Reply-To: <3A43B0BB7F28401397F5B18B0C1B0304@user43e68274ae> References: <3A43B0BB7F28401397F5B18B0C1B0304@user43e68274ae> Message-ID: <113B58AB30864601843CF052865F9942@GregPC> Jim, I did the same thing with mine, I did use heat, after some trial and error and getting it soft but not too soft I got it on there and it has held up fine for a couple of years now and readings as high as 80 lbs of pressure at start up. That being said it is on my list of things to replace, wouldn't want it to pop off and loose oil and pressure. Greg Lemon From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Apr 22 17:09:52 2013 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 23:09:52 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR6 oil pressure line leak 74 In-Reply-To: <3A43B0BB7F28401397F5B18B0C1B0304@user43e68274ae> Message-ID: <20130422230952.6LGLL.84679.root@cdptpa-web01-z01> ---- morgan wrote: > The hard plastic oil gauge line leaks near the engine connection. I wanted to > remove the last 2 inches and put the barb fitting back in. No way it will fit. > Heat made it too soft too fast. What is the secret? Try this: take a block of wood and drill a hole the same diameter as your plastic line. Cut the block in half through the center of the hole. Lay the line into the resulting groove with the end protruding just slightly from one side, then clamp the blocks back together (so they grip the line tightly). Ream the end of the line a bit, for a slight taper. Now drive the fitting in with a hammer and another block of wood. Or, you might consider just replacing the fitting with a "vibration-resistant" compression fitting from MMC (if the block threads match): http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/119/177 That's what I used when adding an oil pressure gauge to the Stag. Randall From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca Mon Apr 22 17:28:32 2013 From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (Art McEwen) Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 19:28:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Starter Solenoid buzzing In-Reply-To: <20130422225923.69EGY.84385.root@cdptpa-web01-z01> References: <20130422225923.69EGY.84385.root@cdptpa-web01-z01> Message-ID: <5175C7A0.8000003@cogeco.ca> On 4/22/2013 6:59 PM, Randall wrote: > ---- Art McEwen wrote: >> I'm assuming there's nothing I can do to fix it (tried hitting it with a >> ratchet handle already so don't suggest that)? > You might want to check that the battery connections are clean and tight; and that the battery itself is in good shape. It's been awhile since I was inside a TR3 solenoid, but I don't recall it having the "buzzer" (aka pull-in coil) that many more modern solenoids have. Cleaned the terminals and replaced a crack battery connector (new last year) and it fired right up. That's when I found the fuel leak ;) > > Your Trombetta solenoid will probably work OK, if it is intended for automotive applications. The cables might not fit though, I believe most of them use 5/16" studs while the original TR3 solenoid was 1/4". Yeah the posts do look bigger but the leads look a bit bigger then the OEM ones so I might have been able to make it fit. I'll throw it in the boot for now Thanks all. From spamiam at comcast.net Mon Apr 22 17:29:56 2013 From: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 23:29:56 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Moss "Classic Seat" for the TR6 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1546002338.1202478.1366673396546.JavaMail.root@sz0135a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Bob, I will have to pick your brain in the future. BTW, I _love_ your website! I will be getting the Goodparts CV joint half shafts this year, and I will be using your article in depth. I will check out your miata seat info. One issue, is I really don't want to sit much higher. I already have to duck my head to see a traffic light when the top is up andmI am first in line . -Tony ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Danielson" <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> To: "Darrell Walker" , spamiam at comcast.net Cc: "Triumphs List" Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 5:04:12 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Moss "Classic Seat" for the TR6 Not so on the Miata brackets with regard to drilling holes in the floor. Order the brackets made by Rick Patton (http://www.pattonmachine.com/Miata-Brackets.htm) and once the brackets are mounted to the floor and properly aligned, you can install/remove the seats in 5 minutes. Everything bolts up to the stock TR6 mounting holes. I was in Florida last week and stopped by to visit Mr. Mike of Miata seat cover fame. He and I frequently work together on my custom interior panel kits and his seat covers. I love my Miata seats! Bob www.TR6.Danielsonfamily.org 1975 Mimosa TR6 with: Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff CVJs And more.... -----Original Message----- From: Darrell Walker Sent: Monday, April 22, 2013 4:01 PM To: spamiam at comcast.net Cc: Triumphs List Subject: Re: [TR] Moss "Classic Seat" for the TR6 On Apr 22, 2013, at 12:31 PM, spamiam at comcast.net wrote: > Dave, I had considered Miata seats. They do seem to require a different/custom > mounting frame and extra holes in the floor pan. I have not seen any seats > that are in good shape and have the right color (black, preferably white > piping). But this is a good suggestion if I can find the right seats. There are at least two different adapter brackets out there, that won't require you to drill holes in the TR4A. Check out Mr. Mikes for new covers: http://mrmikes.com/miatahome.htm They are pretty easy to install, and you can get black with white piping made. A few of pages regarding installation in a TR6: http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/MiataSeats1.htm http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/PattonMiataBrackets.htm http://www.74tr6.com/miataseats.htm -Darrell -- Darrell Walker 66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L 81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206 Vancouver, WA, USA ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From thenicholls at verizon.net Mon Apr 22 19:14:24 2013 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 20:14:24 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 oil pressure line leak 74 Message-ID: <15645195.70795.1366679664904.JavaMail.root@vznit170132> Jim, If it was me, I would not try and repair it. I had a catastrophic failure of that plastic line at the gauge and oil poured into the car, through my radio, and onto my $600 carpet from TRF. Based on my sad tale, TSI imports made a stainless steel replacement. TSI-TR250 , 3991 , TR250/TR6 Oil pressure gauge line. They are located on the web: http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com/ . I tried to get a free one but that did not work out. :) Craig 72 Triumph TR6 On 04/22/13, morgan wrote: The hard plastic oil gauge line leaks near the engine connection. I wanted to remove the last 2 inches and put the barb fitting back in. No way it will fit. Heat made it too soft too fast. What is the secret? Thanks Jim Fuller Syracuse,NY ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net From yellowtr at adelphia.net Tue Apr 23 06:09:51 2013 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 08:09:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 oil pressure line leak 74 In-Reply-To: <3A43B0BB7F28401397F5B18B0C1B0304@user43e68274ae> References: <3A43B0BB7F28401397F5B18B0C1B0304@user43e68274ae> Message-ID: <51767A0F.2080908@adelphia.net> Jim, Forget repair, get the SS line from Ted at TSI as others have suggested. Bob On 04/22/2013 06:47 PM, morgan wrote: > The hard plastic oil gauge line leaks near the engine connection. I wanted to > remove the last 2 inches and put the barb fitting back in. No way it will fit. > Heat made it too soft too fast. What is the secret? > Thanks > > Jim Fuller > Syracuse,NY From emanteno at comcast.net Tue Apr 23 07:01:29 2013 From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey) Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 08:01:29 -0500 Subject: [TR] Paging Original Owners of TR250's and TR6's Message-ID: Good morning, If you are the original owner of your TR250 or TR6, please contact me *OFF LIST*. I am working on a project for the 6-Pack magazine. THANK YOU, Irv Korey original owner CF22767U Highland Park, IL From johnhenard at hotmail.com Tue Apr 23 08:33:37 2013 From: johnhenard at hotmail.com (John Henard) Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 10:33:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] Coolant Sediment Removal In-Reply-To: <0MLO00G0EQRZDO12@vms173013.mailsrvcs.net> References: <0MLO00G0EQRZDO12@vms173013.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: Pete,Thank you for the suggestion. I am going to start by cleaning with Costco's version of simple green and then try vinegar. Depending on the effectiveness I will probably try CLR for the final step. Thanks again. --John Henard To: johnhenard at hotmail.com; triumphs at autox.team.net From: pryner at verizon.net CC: spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Coolant Sediment Removal Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 21:57:34 -0400 I just used simple green on my dodge truck eve valve and cooler. Two to one mix (water to cleaner) let sit overnight and it came out like New. Never used it before, am pleasantly surprised. Pete Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE Smartphone ----- Reply message ----- From: "John Henard" To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" Cc: "spitfires at autox.team.net" Subject: [TR] Coolant Sediment Removal Date: Mon, Apr 22, 2013 12:33 pm Morning Lists, Anyone have recommendations for removal of scale/sediments for small piping, intake manifold, t-stat housing etc. when they are off the car? Vinegar soak is the most common treatment I have read. Suggestions? I have had the radiator boiled by a rad shop but had other parts off while doing some repairs. It is for a '71 Spit that did not have regular flushes (yes - shame on me). Thanks for the help, --John Henard ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pryner at verizon.net From mhooper at indiefilmnet.com Tue Apr 23 11:21:00 2013 From: mhooper at indiefilmnet.com (Mark Hooper) Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 13:21:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 oil pressure line leak 74 In-Reply-To: <15645195.70795.1366679664904.JavaMail.root@vznit170132> Message-ID: I too had a disastrous fail of the line on an old engine. Stuck in hot summer traffic jam idling with low pressure, did not notice that the gauge had stopped reading as all the engine oil drained on the road through the broken end of the pipe. When the traffic cleared, I took off down the highway. Completely seized the camshaft about 1 km later. Stuck on side of highway for several hours in 95 degree sun. End of engine, end of date, end of girlfriend. I really really hate that tube. My solution was to convert to an electric oil pressure gauge. First a cheapy unit from Canadian Tire and then a nice Smiths part from gaugeguys a few years later when slightly lessened poverty permitted. Mark 1972 TR6 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of thenicholls at verizon.net Sent: April-22-13 9:14 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 oil pressure line leak 74 Jim, If it was me, I would not try and repair it. I had a catastrophic failure of that plastic line at the gauge and oil poured into the car, through my radio, and onto my $600 carpet from TRF. Based on my sad tale, TSI imports made a stainless steel replacement. TSI-TR250 , 3991 , TR250/TR6 Oil pressure gauge line. They are located on the web: http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com/ . I tried to get a free one but that did not work out. :) Craig 72 Triumph TR6 On 04/22/13, morgan wrote: The hard plastic oil gauge line leaks near the engine connection. I wanted to remove the last 2 inches and put the barb fitting back in. No way it will fit. Heat made it too soft too fast. What is the secret? Thanks Jim Fuller Syracuse,NY From trguy75 at gmail.com Tue Apr 23 15:08:01 2013 From: trguy75 at gmail.com (James Henningsen) Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 17:08:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] Spa White Paint Code Message-ID: <002d01ce4066$a4f53be0$eedfb3a0$@gmail.com> Does anyone have a modern paint code for the early 60s spa white dashes on a TR4? I had asked before and someone sent me PPG 8335. My painter can't find this code. Is Spa White the creamy white? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Jim Henningsen 1963 TR4 CT5212LO 75 TR6 Ocala FL From thenicholls at verizon.net Tue Apr 23 15:08:01 2013 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 16:08:01 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 oil pressure line leak 74 Message-ID: <15055409.114824.1366751281425.JavaMail.root@vznit170128> I was really thinking you were better off until I heard you lost an engine. I got off easy.....Craig On 04/23/13, Mark Hooper wrote: I too had a disastrous fail of the line on an old engine. Stuck in hot summer traffic jam idling with low pressure, did not notice that the gauge had stopped reading as all the engine oil drained on the road through the broken end of the pipe. When the traffic cleared, I took off down the highway. Completely seized the camshaft about 1 km later. Stuck on side of highway for several hours in 95 degree sun. End of engine, end of date, end of girlfriend. I really really hate that tube. My solution was to convert to an electric oil pressure gauge. First a cheapy unit from Canadian Tire and then a nice Smiths part from gaugeguys a few years later when slightly lessened poverty permitted. Mark 1972 TR6 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of thenicholls at verizon.net Sent: April-22-13 9:14 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 oil pressure line leak 74 Jim, If it was me, I would not try and repair it. I had a catastrophic failure of that plastic line at the gauge and oil poured into the car, through my radio, and onto my $600 carpet from TRF. Based on my sad tale, TSI imports made a stainless steel replacement. TSI-TR250 , 3991 , TR250/TR6 Oil pressure gauge line. They are located on the web: http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com/ . I tried to get a free one but that did not work out. :) Craig 72 Triumph TR6 On 04/22/13, morgan wrote: The hard plastic oil gauge line leaks near the engine connection. I wanted to remove the last 2 inches and put the barb fitting back in. No way it will fit. Heat made it too soft too fast. What is the secret? Thanks Jim Fuller Syracuse,NY From mark at bradakis.com Tue Apr 23 15:12:13 2013 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 15:12:13 -0600 Subject: [TR] Yahoo, etc. Message-ID: <5176F92D.4030107@bradakis.com> I believe the yahoo, btinternet, sbcglobal issue is resolved. I'll keep a close eye on list mail to check. mjb. From yellowtr at adelphia.net Tue Apr 23 15:13:40 2013 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 17:13:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] Spa White Paint Code In-Reply-To: <002d01ce4066$a4f53be0$eedfb3a0$@gmail.com> References: <002d01ce4066$a4f53be0$eedfb3a0$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <5176F984.6090308@adelphia.net> Jim, I have the PPG formula for Spa White in DCC I think. (If I can find it) My local PPG supplier was able to re-create the formula from the code I supplied. I used it on the car (63 TR4) as well. Let me know if you would like the mix formula and I will go and see if I can find the paperwork. I can also supply you with a few photos to give you an idea of what it looks like on my 4. Bob On 04/23/2013 05:08 PM, James Henningsen wrote: > Does anyone have a modern paint code for the early 60s spa white dashes on a > TR4? I had asked before and someone sent me PPG 8335. My painter can't > find this code. Is Spa White the creamy white? Any help would be greatly > appreciated. > > Thanks, > > Jim Henningsen > > 1963 TR4 CT5212LO > > 75 TR6 > > Ocala FL From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Tue Apr 23 15:15:55 2013 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 14:15:55 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 oil pressure line leak 74 In-Reply-To: <15055409.114824.1366751281425.JavaMail.root@vznit170128> References: <15055409.114824.1366751281425.JavaMail.root@vznit170128> Message-ID: <1366751755.19948.YahooMailNeo@web120002.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> why not replace it with the steel line from the TR3? I'm guessing that they are the same fittings Frank whoooo hooo back getting mail From: "thenicholls at verizon.net" To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2013 2:08 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 oil pressure line leak 74 I was really thinking you were better off until I heard you lost an engine. I got off easy.....Craig On 04/23/13, Mark Hooper wrote: I too had a disastrous fail of the line on an old engine. Stuck in hot summer traffic jam idling with low pressure, did not notice that the gauge had stopped reading as all the engine oil drained on the road through the broken end of the pipe. When the traffic cleared, I took off down the highway. Completely seized the camshaft about 1 km later. Stuck on side of highway for several hours in 95 degree sun. End of engine, end of date, end of girlfriend. I really really hate that tube. My solution was to convert to an electric oil pressure gauge. First a cheapy unit from Canadian Tire and then a nice Smiths part from gaugeguys a few years later when slightly lessened poverty permitted. Mark 1972 TR6 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of thenicholls at verizon.net Sent: April-22-13 9:14 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 oil pressure line leak 74 Jim, If it was me, I would not try and repair it. I had a catastrophic failure of that plastic line at the gauge and oil poured into the car, through my radio, and onto my $600 carpet from TRF. Based on my sad tale, TSI imports made a stainless steel replacement. TSI-TR250 , 3991 , TR250/TR6 Oil pressure gauge line. They are located on the web: http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com/. I tried to get a free one but that did not work out. :) Craig 72 Triumph TR6 On 04/22/13, morgan wrote: The hard plastic oil gauge line leaks near the engine connection. I wanted to remove the last 2 inches and put the barb fitting back in. No way it will fit. Heat made it too soft too fast. What is the secret? Thanks Jim Fuller Syracuse,NY ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Tue Apr 23 15:16:32 2013 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 14:16:32 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Yahoo, etc. In-Reply-To: <5176F92D.4030107@bradakis.com> References: <5176F92D.4030107@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <1366751792.3640.YahooMailNeo@web120004.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> im yahoo'ing thanks Mark From: Mark J Bradakis To: Triumphs Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2013 2:12 PM Subject: [TR] Yahoo, etc. I believe the yahoo, btinternet, sbcglobal issue is resolved. I'll keep a close eye on list mail to check. mjb. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From terryrs at comcast.net Tue Apr 23 15:18:50 2013 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 21:18:50 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Uncool Coolant Confusion In-Reply-To: <15055409.114824.1366751281425.JavaMail.root@vznit170128> Message-ID: <1649227787.1224761.1366751930294.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> I confess, I'm not getting the nuance here. I rebuilt the engine on my TR3A 10 years ago and it always ran cool using the yellow multi-bladed upgrade fan and stock radiator. I've rebuilt it again using new rings but the same Mahle pistons and same honed liners. Did put in a new radiator from either Moss or TRF. Runs spectacular with so far about 5,000 miles on it. But... On mild days the engine touches 190 to 200 instead of 160-180 it runs on cool days. Block was boiled and cleaned. New radiator. Proven pistons and liners. Only change I made was to bring the crankshaft thrust bearings within tolerances by going oversize. I'll break down and install an electric fan if this doesn't clear up this summer. Thoughts? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A TS 58667 New Hampshire From trguy75 at gmail.com Tue Apr 23 15:20:51 2013 From: trguy75 at gmail.com (James Henningsen) Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 17:20:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] Spa White Paint Code In-Reply-To: <5176F984.6090308@adelphia.net> References: <002d01ce4066$a4f53be0$eedfb3a0$@gmail.com> <5176F984.6090308@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <003d01ce4068$6fe52df0$4faf89d0$@gmail.com> That would be great. He said the local ppg supply house couldn't find code in their database. jim -----Original Message----- From: Bob Labuz [mailto:yellowtr at adelphia.net] Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2013 5:14 PM To: James Henningsen Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Spa White Paint Code Jim, I have the PPG formula for Spa White in DCC I think. (If I can find it) My local PPG supplier was able to re-create the formula from the code I supplied. I used it on the car (63 TR4) as well. Let me know if you would like the mix formula and I will go and see if I can find the paperwork. I can also supply you with a few photos to give you an idea of what it looks like on my 4. Bob On 04/23/2013 05:08 PM, James Henningsen wrote: > Does anyone have a modern paint code for the early 60s spa white > dashes on a TR4? I had asked before and someone sent me PPG 8335. My > painter can't find this code. Is Spa White the creamy white? Any help > would be greatly appreciated. > > Thanks, > > Jim Henningsen > > 1963 TR4 CT5212LO > > 75 TR6 > > Ocala FL From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Apr 23 15:59:00 2013 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 21:59:00 +0000 Subject: [TR] Uncool Coolant Confusion In-Reply-To: <1649227787.1224761.1366751930294.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <20130423215900.YT0BQ.94439.root@cdptpa-web01-z01> ---- terryrs at comcast.net wrote: > Block was boiled and cleaned. New radiator. Proven pistons and liners. Only change I made was to bring the crankshaft thrust bearings within tolerances by going oversize. > I'll break down and install an electric fan if this doesn't clear up this summer. > Thoughts? You didn't mention thermostat, nor checking that the temp gauge was still accurate. Replace the water pump? Grille? Air deflector? Distributor? Re-tune the carbs? Could the exhaust have gotten partially clogged while you were working? (eg mouse crawled into the pipe) IMO if it is getting hot at speed, then an electric fan is not likely to help. You're going to have to find the problem and fix it. FWIW, I've had really persistent overheating problems 3 times now (with three different TR3/A). First time, I'm pretty sure it was worn carb jets or it might have been the carb modifications (done by a previous owner). Both second and third times, it proved to be a radiator that "couldn't possibly be bad", but was. Sorry, that doesn't help much. Randall From dave at ranteer.com Tue Apr 23 15:56:26 2013 From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave) Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 16:56:26 -0500 Subject: [TR] Spa White Paint Code In-Reply-To: <003d01ce4068$6fe52df0$4faf89d0$@gmail.com> References: <002d01ce4066$a4f53be0$eedfb3a0$@gmail.com><5176F984.6090308@adelphia.net> <003d01ce4068$6fe52df0$4faf89d0$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <9FEB080D929840C4A8908BCCCABD2479@Datsun> I would like that code, too. thank you -----Original Message----- From: James Henningsen Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2013 4:20 PM To: 'Bob Labuz' Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Spa White Paint Code That would be great. He said the local ppg supply house couldn't find code in their database. jim -----Original Message----- From: Bob Labuz [mailto:yellowtr at adelphia.net] Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2013 5:14 PM To: James Henningsen Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Spa White Paint Code Jim, I have the PPG formula for Spa White in DCC I think. (If I can find it) My local PPG supplier was able to re-create the formula from the code I supplied. I used it on the car (63 TR4) as well. Let me know if you would like the mix formula and I will go and see if I can find the paperwork. I can also supply you with a few photos to give you an idea of what it looks like on my 4. Bob On 04/23/2013 05:08 PM, James Henningsen wrote: > Does anyone have a modern paint code for the early 60s spa white > dashes on a TR4? I had asked before and someone sent me PPG 8335. My > painter can't find this code. Is Spa White the creamy white? Any help > would be greatly appreciated. > > Thanks, > > Jim Henningsen > > 1963 TR4 CT5212LO > > 75 TR6 > > Ocala FL From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Apr 23 16:10:02 2013 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 22:10:02 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3A Starter Solenoid buzzing In-Reply-To: <21516293.1224018.1366750709409.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <20130423221002.BERBP.94480.root@cdptpa-web01-z01> ---- terryrs at comcast.net wrote: > I'm sure it means the starter is going bad anyway, but seems that there is some connection between very cold (30's) temps and the starter kicking in. > > ...Or is he off base with this? Certainly possible. But my experience (back when I lived where it got cold) was that the engine would frequently fire once (kicking the starter drive out) and then fail to start. I would have to back off the starter button, wait for it to stop spinning, then try again. My buddy's MGA did the same thing. It happened much less often in warm weather (but still occasionally). Not a sign of a failing starter as far as I could see. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Apr 23 16:18:22 2013 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 22:18:22 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR6 oil pressure line leak 74 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20130423221822.TECG1.94507.root@cdptpa-web01-z01> ---- Mark Hooper wrote: > I too had a disastrous fail of the line on an old engine. Stuck in hot summer > traffic jam idling with low pressure, did not notice that the gauge had > stopped reading as all the engine oil drained on the road through the broken Just a thought, if that kind of thing worries you: It should be fairly easy to wire an oil pressure switch so it kills the engine if you lose oil pressure. There even exist oil pressure gauges with this function built into them (though probably not to match the other gauges). Guess I've been lucky though. I've lost oil pressure several times and always noticed before any serious damage was done. I try to make it a habit to scan the gauges frequently, but the change in engine noise has alerted me first, every time. Usually it just means I need to add oil :) Randall From spook01 at comcast.net Tue Apr 23 16:38:32 2013 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 17:38:32 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Uncool_Coolant_Confusion?= Message-ID: 200 is a good temp for the additives in the oil. But such a big change from previous is worrisome. Aluminum or copper radiator? Water pump working (fan belt slip)? Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: terryrs at comcast.net To: Subject: [TR] Uncool Coolant Confusion Date: Tue, Apr 23, 2013 16:18 I confess, I'm not getting the nuance here. I rebuilt the engine on my TR3A 10 years ago and it always ran cool using the yellow multi-bladed upgrade fan and stock radiator. I've rebuilt it again using new rings but the same Mahle pistons and same honed liners. Did put in a new radiator from either Moss or TRF. Runs spectacular with so far about 5,000 miles on it. But... On mild days the engine touches 190 to 200 instead of 160-180 it runs on cool days. Block was boiled and cleaned. New radiator. Proven pistons and liners. Only change I made was to bring the crankshaft thrust bearings within tolerances by going oversize. I'll break down and install an electric fan if this doesn't clear up this summer. Thoughts? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A TS 58667 New Hampshire ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From trglory at verizon.net Tue Apr 23 19:40:39 2013 From: trglory at verizon.net (Joseph Laurito) Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 21:40:39 -0400 Subject: [TR] Uncool Coolant Confusion In-Reply-To: <1649227787.1224761.1366751930294.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <15055409.114824.1366751281425.JavaMail.root@vznit170128> <1649227787.1224761.1366751930294.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <005e01ce408c$ba708b20$2f51a160$@net> Terry; Before you start spending money, double check your timing, then check your carbs to make sure you don't have the mixture set too lean. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of terryrs at comcast.net Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2013 5:19 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Uncool Coolant Confusion I confess, I'm not getting the nuance here. I rebuilt the engine on my TR3A 10 years ago and it always ran cool using the yellow multi-bladed upgrade fan and stock radiator. I've rebuilt it again using new rings but the same Mahle pistons and same honed liners. Did put in a new radiator from either Moss or TRF. Runs spectacular with so far about 5,000 miles on it. But... On mild days the engine touches 190 to 200 instead of 160-180 it runs on cool days. Block was boiled and cleaned. New radiator. Proven pistons and liners. Only change I made was to bring the crankshaft thrust bearings within tolerances by going oversize. I'll break down and install an electric fan if this doesn't clear up this summer. Thoughts? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A TS 58667 New Hampshire ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trglory at verizon.net From rivers2hills at yahoo.com Tue Apr 23 21:51:20 2013 From: rivers2hills at yahoo.com (John Summers) Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 20:51:20 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] noises Message-ID: <1366775480.69899.YahooMailClassic@web161204.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> I think my left front brake is worn out. Is it a big deal to fix?Behind the left side of my rollbar I'm getting some very pronounced squeaking. Any ideas on these? '74 TR6 From mark at bradakis.com Tue Apr 23 22:01:12 2013 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 22:01:12 -0600 Subject: [TR] noises In-Reply-To: <1366775480.69899.YahooMailClassic@web161204.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> References: <1366775480.69899.YahooMailClassic@web161204.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <51775908.30706@bradakis.com> John Summers wrote: > I think my left front brake is worn out. Is it a big deal to fix? If it just worn pads, no problem. If the worn pads have chewed up the rotor, more complicated. mjb. From ashleys at farmside.co.nz Tue Apr 23 22:40:24 2013 From: ashleys at farmside.co.nz (ashleys) Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2013 16:40:24 +1200 Subject: [TR] TR3B For Sale. Message-ID: <474E2AC9343144A8A19FD7E45872641A@AshleysPC> Hi! Check out www. trademe.co.nz 586272211, TR3B for sale. Also overdrive gear box - 286179254 A From wbeech at flash.net Tue Apr 23 22:54:57 2013 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 23:54:57 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3B For Sale. In-Reply-To: <474E2AC9343144A8A19FD7E45872641A@AshleysPC> References: <474E2AC9343144A8A19FD7E45872641A@AshleysPC> Message-ID: <0F38DF1C81A54D43B7118492EC5D53CA@bboffice> What is the exchange rate NZ to US dollar? -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of ashleys Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2013 11:40 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR3B For Sale. Hi! Check out www. trademe.co.nz 586272211, TR3B for sale. Also overdrive gear box - 286179254 A ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From bkahler1 at gmail.com Wed Apr 24 05:05:27 2013 From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2013 07:05:27 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR7 for sale in Kentucky Message-ID: http://lexington.craigslist.org/cto/3761612982.html In case one of you might be looking for a TR7 project. Brad From perryfly at gmail.com Thu Apr 25 14:00:01 2013 From: perryfly at gmail.com (Perry Hammock) Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2013 16:00:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A....7" versus 5 1/2" driving lights Message-ID: for a number of reasons, including covering up some very minor body damage, i am going to install driving lights on my 1960 tr3A. I have a set of NOS Lucas driving and fog lights in the smaller 5 1/2 inch size. I have wiring and relays already installed, thanks to advice from Randall some time back. Luckily the lights werent on the car when the doofus in teh jacked up pickup basked into my car ( but ever so slightly) it would be a bit more cosmetically helpful to use 7" lights. Birthday is here, so the 7" lights would make a good present ;-) Car is a ten footer, driven often and fast. Do not want to start shipwrights disease project because the whole body would need to be redone. Just want to drive, not get into body work at this time. Will save the insurance check for the total resoration when I find a perfect body. Any comments about which looks/fits/works better? thanks! Perry HAmmock 60 tr3a From spamiam at comcast.net Fri Apr 26 16:49:19 2013 From: spamiam at comcast.net (Anthony Rhodes) Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2013 18:49:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A....7" versus 5 1/2" driving lights In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Perry, Well, the 7" looks a little large to me, but it is a matter of your personal preference I came very close to mounting a pair of 7" hella driving lights. As I was sitting working on shaping bracket templates., I started working out my energy budget. I have a stock 22A generator. I concluded that with all the stock equipment running, I could not sustain the extra power demand of two 100 watt driving lights! I think that this is why they mounted one driving light and one fog light. And they were less than 55 watts each, and only one would be on at a time. An extra 40 watts is sustainable, but not 200, IMHO. So I switched out my original Lucas headlights, and installed some H4's. I measured the originals to draw about only 40 watts and they were pretty dim. I figure the pair of new 55/60W headlights max out my generator and they are quite bright. No need for driving lights. But for decoration, some Lucas flamethrower driving lights would look perfect! -Tony > Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2013 16:00:01 -0400 > From: Perry Hammock > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] TR3A....7" versus 5 1/2" driving lights > Message-ID: > > for a number of reasons, including covering up some very minor body damage, > i am going to install > driving lights on my 1960 tr3A. I have a set of NOS Lucas driving and fog > lights in the smaller 5 1/2 inch size. > I have wiring and relays already installed, thanks to advice from Randall > some time back. > Luckily the lights werent on the car when the doofus in teh jacked up > pickup basked into my car ( but ever so slightly) > it would be a bit more cosmetically helpful to use 7" lights. Birthday is > here, so the 7" lights would make a good present ;-) > > Car is a ten footer, driven often and fast. Do not want to start > shipwrights disease project because the whole body would need to be redone. > Just want to drive, not get into body work at this time. Will save the > insurance check for the total resoration when I find a perfect body. > > Any comments about which looks/fits/works better? > > thanks! > > Perry HAmmock From mark at bradakis.com Sat Apr 27 01:40:51 2013 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2013 01:40:51 -0600 Subject: [TR] No ideas yet? Message-ID: <517B8103.6050703@bradakis.com> Somewhat surprised no responses to this: http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=150 mjb. From glemon at neb.rr.com Sat Apr 27 01:54:49 2013 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2013 02:54:49 -0500 Subject: [TR] No ideas yet? In-Reply-To: <517B8103.6050703@bradakis.com> References: <517B8103.6050703@bradakis.com> Message-ID: I am semi-awake, my mind is bouncing around a little bit, how about a pull thing to raise the dickey or rumble seat of a post war Triumph 2000? That is what we call a WAG Greg Lemon ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark J Bradakis" To: "Triumphs" Sent: Saturday, April 27, 2013 2:40 AM Subject: [TR] No ideas yet? > Somewhat surprised no responses to this: > > http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=150 > > > mjb. > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/glemon at neb.rr.com From carlsereda at aol.com Sat Apr 27 12:49:51 2013 From: carlsereda at aol.com (Carl Sereda) Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2013 14:49:51 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] TR4 support vehicle troubles In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8D0118F2235A2CD-15D4-26BF5@webmail-m261.sysops.aol.com> Hi all, Hoping someone can help direct me to a user's group as my support vehicle (an '88 Ford TBird) has failed aircon/heat 'blower' operation. A year ago I replaced a failed TO-3 transistor located on the finned aluminum arm, inside the air ducting, with the only TO-3 transistor Radio Shack sells - it worked for 1 year! Without the fan operating again I have no ventilation, aircon, or heating action. The original TO-3 transistor (Motorola SJ5783) or equivalent, can not be found on internet after at least 4 hours of searching and several calls and queries ('maybe' I can order 200 of them!) so my next step is looking for a TBird user's group to see what others might have done, or better yet, an equivalent transistor. Any leads or better ideas out there? Hot Summer is coming! Regards, Carl '63 TR4 since '74 From levilevi at comcast.net Sat Apr 27 13:42:23 2013 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud R) Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2013 13:42:23 -0600 Subject: [TR] Old TR6-TR4 top? Message-ID: <534D372B-AF01-4865-B27C-4B7216643CCE@comcast.net> Anyone replace their convertible top and have the old one they'd like to get rid of? I'd like an old 4A white one ideally or a big piece of one since I have an old white top I'm working from. Black or tan would work if I can get two of them. I'm making a cover to go over the MK IV when towing it and will hopefully snap a couple pieces together to make a full cover from the front cowling to the rear deck with snaps on the car and maybe some "tags" at both ends that would be held by the closed boot lid and bonnet. Thanks Bud Rolofson Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Apr 27 18:00:34 2013 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2013 17:00:34 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 support vehicle troubles In-Reply-To: <8D0118F2235A2CD-15D4-26BF5@webmail-m261.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <7A.C2.02984.9966C715@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> > A > year ago I replaced a failed TO-3 transistor located on the > finned aluminum arm, inside the air ducting, with the only > TO-3 transistor Radio Shack sells - it worked for 1 year! I found two TO-3 on their web site ... What was the part number of the RS "almost" replacement? The SJ series were OEM numbers; generally used to keep people from doing what you're trying to do. Sorry, no help on the Tbird group. -- Randall From dconnitt at fuse.net Sat Apr 27 20:27:24 2013 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2013 22:27:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] Question on gear reduction starter wiring Message-ID: <662B88486A40447A8D829A1295D92116@DaveLaptop> List, I have a gear reduction starter that I had bought several years ago from TSI automotive and am just now wireing it up. I would have written Ted with this question but I am hoping I can get an answer yet this weekend. Does anyone know if these starters need a external starter solenoid or is the small one wire connector controlling a internal starter solenoid? I don't know if I can run a battery cable directly to this starter or if I need a starter relay? Thanks, Dave Connitt From darrellw360 at mac.com Sat Apr 27 20:48:22 2013 From: darrellw360 at mac.com (Darrell Walker) Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2013 19:48:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] Question on gear reduction starter wiring In-Reply-To: <662B88486A40447A8D829A1295D92116@DaveLaptop> References: <662B88486A40447A8D829A1295D92116@DaveLaptop> Message-ID: <57DED8E7-610C-4754-B6E0-4867904F1C28@mac.com> I believe they all have an internal solenoid. Here are some wiring options: http://britishstarters.com/Wiring_Diagram.html -Darrell -- Darrell Walker 66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L 81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206 Vancouver, WA, USA From dconnitt at fuse.net Sat Apr 27 21:00:11 2013 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2013 23:00:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] Question on gear reduction starter wiring In-Reply-To: <57DED8E7-610C-4754-B6E0-4867904F1C28@mac.com> References: <662B88486A40447A8D829A1295D92116@DaveLaptop> <57DED8E7-610C-4754-B6E0-4867904F1C28@mac.com> Message-ID: <1F0E4394C06749C783ADDEA084C1CF8E@DaveLaptop> Thanks Darrell! Dave Connitt ----- Original Message ----- From: "Darrell Walker" To: "Dave Connitt" Cc: Sent: Saturday, April 27, 2013 10:48 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Question on gear reduction starter wiring > > I believe they all have an internal solenoid. > > Here are some wiring options: > > http://britishstarters.com/Wiring_Diagram.html > > -Darrell > > -- > Darrell Walker > 66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L > 81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206 > Vancouver, WA, USA From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Apr 27 22:33:01 2013 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2013 21:33:01 -0700 Subject: [TR] Question on gear reduction starter wiring In-Reply-To: <57DED8E7-610C-4754-B6E0-4867904F1C28@mac.com> Message-ID: <7D.D0.16585.376AC715@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> > I believe they all have an internal solenoid. > > Here are some wiring options: > > http://britishstarters.com/Wiring_Diagram.html FWIW, I went a different route than either diagram shows. The solenoid inside the starter draws a good deal of current, roughly 6 times as much as the original, and I wasn't confident of the original switch's ability to handle the extra current (and extra kick-back) on a regular basis. I also wanted to keep the original solenoid functional (the button on the back comes in really handy from time to time); but it had lost part of it's smoke when the original starter failed. So, I used the original solenoid to switch power only to the new solenoid. I moved all of the original wires from the top stud to the bottom stud (making the wire to the starter hot all the time), and ran a new wire from the top stud to the solenoid stud on the new starter. Best of both worlds, IMO. That was in 2000, and both the switch & the solenoid are still working great (they got moved from the wrecked TR3A to my current TR3 along with the starter). -- Randall From terryrs at comcast.net Sun Apr 28 07:52:40 2013 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2013 13:52:40 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Overheating Question In-Reply-To: <7D.D0.16585.376AC715@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> Message-ID: <4455092.58232.1367157160651.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Investigating my overheating in the TR3A, I found loss of coolant in the radiator. I checked the oil in the sump, but no white curdling suggesting water in the oil. Pulling the valve cover, though, shows lots of water. Sounds like a head gasket, but wouldn't the water be in the sump too? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From alansalvy at gmail.com Sun Apr 28 09:21:00 2013 From: alansalvy at gmail.com (alan salvatore) Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2013 11:21:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] Sticking throttle TR6 Strombergs Message-ID: I have a problem with the throttle sticking open on the front carb with the car running. I recently rebuilt these carbs and the throttle shows no indication of sticking when the car is not running. I took the carb off the car and the butterfly does not stick, as I thought it might have been out of position. I even sanded the insulator in case it was interfering. Put it back on the car, but did not hook up the linkage, movement is good. Start the car without hooking up the linkage, move the throttle and it hangs up. I am going to pull it off again and take a look at the throttle shaft. Any ideas? Thanks, Al From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Sun Apr 28 10:26:19 2013 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2013 12:26:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] Sticking throttle TR6 Strombergs In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Throttle shaft or bushings worn? Maybe engine vacuum is pulling it into a bind. Does it close on its own when you shut down the engine? On Apr 28, 2013 11:24 AM, "alan salvatore" wrote: > I have a problem with the throttle sticking open on the front carb with the > car running. > > I recently rebuilt these carbs and the throttle shows no indication of > sticking when the car is not running. > I took the carb off the car and the butterfly does not stick, as I thought > it might have been out of position. > > I even sanded the insulator in case it was interfering. > > Put it back on the car, but did not hook up the linkage, movement is good. > Start the car without hooking up the linkage, move the throttle and it > hangs up. > > I am going to pull it off again and take a look at the throttle shaft. > > Any ideas? > > Thanks, > Al > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ccsimonsen at gmail.com From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Sun Apr 28 10:32:42 2013 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2013 12:32:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] Overheating Question In-Reply-To: <4455092.58232.1367157160651.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <7D.D0.16585.376AC715@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> <4455092.58232.1367157160651.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Before you pull the head, remember a rarely driven car or a car driven on only short trips will likely have moisture and condensation in the valve cover. Ive pulled a few valve covers and found some to alot of yellow gunk in there. I make sure i get a good long drive in at least once a month. Helps my sanity, too. Chris On Apr 28, 2013 9:53 AM, wrote: > Investigating my overheating in the TR3A, I found loss of coolant in the > radiator. I checked the oil in the sump, but no white curdling suggesting > water in the oil. Pulling the valve cover, though, shows lots of water. > > Sounds like a head gasket, but wouldn't the water be in the sump too? > > Terry Smith, '59 TR3A > New Hampshire > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ccsimonsen at gmail.com From pryner at verizon.net Sun Apr 28 11:51:02 2013 From: pryner at verizon.net (Pete Ryner) Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2013 13:51:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] Overheating Question In-Reply-To: <4455092.58232.1367157160651.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <4455092.58232.1367157160651.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <4C4ACD7026474CE8887A93BE110F22C9@HomePC> If the car sits for a while the oil and water will separate and it won't look white. Check the level of the oil. If it is higher than normal there is water in the sump. Pete -----Original Message----- From: terryrs at comcast.net Sent: Sunday, April 28, 2013 9:52 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Overheating Question Investigating my overheating in the TR3A, I found loss of coolant in the radiator. I checked the oil in the sump, but no white curdling suggesting water in the oil. Pulling the valve cover, though, shows lots of water. Sounds like a head gasket, but wouldn't the water be in the sump too? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pryner at verizon.net From carlsereda at aol.com Sun Apr 28 13:04:54 2013 From: carlsereda at aol.com (Carl Sereda) Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2013 15:04:54 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Thanks for supporting my Support vehicle In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8D0125A662C73A0-15D4-2A8B8@webmail-m261.sysops.aol.com> Thanks Michael and Randall, My latest TR4 support vehicle ('88 TBird since '98) has good ventilation, cooling and heating again. Now I can get back to working on my first car bThanks for your support! Regards, Carl '63 TR4 since '74 From auprichard at uprichard.net Sun Apr 28 14:29:12 2013 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2013 16:29:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] Overheating Question In-Reply-To: <4455092.58232.1367157160651.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <7D.D0.16585.376AC715@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com> <4455092.58232.1367157160651.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <012401ce444f$0cd565a0$268030e0$@uprichard.net> If there is lots of water when you pull the valve cover, there is likely to be lots in the sump, too. But before you pull the head, check the aluminum plug in the head: I once had a similar problem after an engine rebuild and it turned out the plug had disintegrated and was leaking (and I hadn't replaced it). It's a much quicker and cheaper fix than just about all of the others causes. Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of terryrs at comcast.net Sent: Sunday, April 28, 2013 9:53 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Overheating Question Investigating my overheating in the TR3A, I found loss of coolant in the radiator. I checked the oil in the sump, but no white curdling suggesting water in the oil. Pulling the valve cover, though, shows lots of water. Sounds like a head gasket, but wouldn't the water be in the sump too? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From auprichard at uprichard.net Sun Apr 28 14:41:28 2013 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2013 16:41:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 frame Message-ID: <012501ce4450$c333fe00$499bfa00$@uprichard.net> Sorry to bomb the list, but if anyone knows of a good TR3 frame (no significant rust, no damage, no botched repairs), please contact me off-line. The closer to Michigan, the better. I bought two cars last year in the hope of restoring one nice example, but both frames were shot. Have a few offers from around the country, but wanted to exhaust possibilities before committing. Thanks! Andrew Uprichard From elliottr at rmi.net Sun Apr 28 15:26:29 2013 From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott) Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2013 16:26:29 -0500 Subject: [TR] TRF TR 250 Steering column bushing kit Message-ID: <517D9405.9010502@rmi.net> Hi, I am putting the TRF steering column bushing kit into my wife's TR 250 and have come across a couple of questions, I am hoping someone can help me with. The kit has 3 pieces of felt. 2 are about the same length 1 with holes 1 without. I know where those go. There is another shorter thicker piece that I did not see as I was taking the steering column apart. Can anyone tell me where that shorter one goes? Maybe it isn't used on the TR250. The second question has to do with the turn signals. The cam on the column to turn off the signals isn't centered. I thought I would be able to loosen the clamp above the silent block to rotate the column to bring that cam back to where it is supposed to be. But the column has a flat spot that the pinch bolt goes through. So that won't work. From the manual, it looks like all of the pinch bolts have an interference fit with the steering column. So, do I have to adjust the steering somewhere else to get that cam centered? Thanks, Roger Elliott 68 TR 250 From tom628 at verizon.net Sun Apr 28 16:41:27 2013 From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note) Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2013 18:41:27 -0400 Subject: [TR] Sticking throttle TR6 Strombergs References: Message-ID: <3F4C6911FAFF468D8DA5ACA294BA429B@Toms> Alan, if you un-link the 2 carbs can you manually close the sticking carb while the engine is running? If so, does it close easily, or feel like it's scraping the throat ? Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "alan salvatore" To: Sent: Sunday, April 28, 2013 11:21 AM Subject: [TR] Sticking throttle TR6 Strombergs >I have a problem with the throttle sticking open on the front carb with the > car running. > > I recently rebuilt these carbs and the throttle shows no indication of > sticking when the car is not running. > I took the carb off the car and the butterfly does not stick, as I thought > it might have been out of position. > > I even sanded the insulator in case it was interfering. > > Put it back on the car, but did not hook up the linkage, movement is good. > Start the car without hooking up the linkage, move the throttle and it > hangs up. > > I am going to pull it off again and take a look at the throttle shaft. > > Any ideas? > > Thanks, > Al > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tom628 at verizon.net From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Sat Apr 27 22:32:44 2013 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2013 21:32:44 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Oddball TR3 Hard Top Part Message-ID: <1367123564.88159.YahooMailNeo@web180901.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Looking through a box of unused TR3 parts I found this bracket that I bought from TRF. No idea where it goes. I tried looking up the part number on TRF's site and couldn't find anything like it. I've got mislabeled parts in the past from both Moss and TRF. Maybe this if for something else. Supposedly it goes to the TR3 hardtop. http://www.flickr.com/photos/39699927 at N08/8687107753/in/photostream http://www.flickr.com/photos/39699927 at N08/8687110161/in/photostream Anyone know what this is and where it's used? TIA, Bill in Tehachapi From tjwakeman at gmail.com Sun Apr 28 22:23:28 2013 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2013 21:23:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] Oddball TR3 Hard Top Part In-Reply-To: <1367123564.88159.YahooMailNeo@web180901.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1367123564.88159.YahooMailNeo@web180901.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <517DF5C0.6030908@gmail.com> On 4/27/13 9:32 PM, William Brewer wrote: > Looking through a box of unused TR3 parts I found this bracket that I > bought from TRF. No idea where it goes. I tried looking up the part number on > TRF's site and couldn't find anything like it. I've got mislabeled parts in > the past from both Moss and TRF. Maybe this if for something else. Nothing like that in my hard top or top to body fixings TeriAnn From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Mon Apr 29 00:22:15 2013 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2013 02:22:15 -0400 Subject: [TR] LED Dash Lamps in TR3 Message-ID: <000001ce44a1$e4e724e0$aeb56ea0$@verizon.net> Thanks to Jim at Litezupp.com  I have switched the extremely weak dash lamps in my TR3 to LEDs. See photos at http://s1001.photobucket.com/user/cfmtr3a/slideshow/Dash%20Lamps (10 picture slideshow) The first image is the dash taken in time exposure for 6 seconds. If you look real close you can see the Tach. The next few images show how I had to modify the center panel location to accommodate the deeper LED lamps (about = longer). The tach & speedo are direct fit. The next to the last shows the Tach with LED installed and the rest invisible. Finally, the finished job. NOTE: I broke one of the lamps (they are very fragile  Jim is working on that) in the Tach (it was one of the center panel lamps, but I moved it to the tach for ease of replacement. Also, the plastic lamp window on the fuel gauge (upper right) is very dirty. Ill need to clean it up before I say the job is completely done. They are so much brighter, that I will probably create a dash panel bottom to contain the reflection into the floor board area  Although, if I had a radio, it would provide light to it. I believe these lamps are the first positive ground dash lamps available for the early british cars. Kudos to Jim and LiteZupp for this mod to the LEDs. Carl 1961 Triumph TR3A  TS81802LO http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ Tampa, FL From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Mon Apr 29 00:31:00 2013 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2013 02:31:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] Oddball TR3 Hard Top Part In-Reply-To: <1367123564.88159.YahooMailNeo@web180901.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1367123564.88159.YahooMailNeo@web180901.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000501ce44a3$1dcdaee0$59690ca0$@verizon.net> HT1 is the kit that contains all of the hardware that fits a hardtop on a TR3. This piece does not look like any in my package that I purchased about 3 years ago. It does look familiar but I cannot place it. Carl 1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ Tampa, FL -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer Sent: Sunday, April 28, 2013 12:33 AM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] Oddball TR3 Hard Top Part Looking through a box of unused TR3 parts I found this bracket that I bought from TRF. No idea where it goes. I tried looking up the part number on TRF's site and couldn't find anything like it. I've got mislabeled parts in the past from both Moss and TRF. Maybe this if for something else. Supposedly it goes to the TR3 hardtop. http://www.flickr.com/photos/39699927 at N08/8687107753/in/photostream http://www.flickr.com/photos/39699927 at N08/8687110161/in/photostream Anyone know what this is and where it's used? TIA, Bill in Tehachapi ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net From tr6driver at yahoo.com Mon Apr 29 08:01:43 2013 From: tr6driver at yahoo.com (Jamie Palmer) Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2013 07:01:43 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] 2000 Sedan for sale in San Diego Message-ID: <1367244103.19100.YahooMailNeo@web121602.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> NFI, just like to see someone save it... http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/cto/3754033750.html From zoboherald at aol.com Mon Apr 29 09:02:48 2013 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace) Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2013 11:02:48 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] 2000 Sedan for sale in San Diego In-Reply-To: <1367244103.19100.YahooMailNeo@web121602.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1367244103.19100.YahooMailNeo@web121602.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8D01301BF523514-858-1E44@webmail-d220.sysops.aol.com> Da*n, that's a steal. Too bad I'm on the wrong coast, or I'd have it in a "New York minute"! :) --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us -----Original Message----- From: Jamie Palmer To: Triumph List Sent: Mon, Apr 29, 2013 10:02 am Subject: [TR] 2000 Sedan for sale in San Diego NFI, just like to see someone save it... http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/cto/3754033750.html From pfischer at rmi.net Mon Apr 29 09:38:35 2013 From: pfischer at rmi.net (Pat Fischer) Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2013 10:38:35 -0500 Subject: [TR] noises In-Reply-To: <51775908.30706@bradakis.com> References: <1366775480.69899.YahooMailClassic@web161204.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> <51775908.30706@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <517E93FB.5060901@rmi.net> And, please, check all brake pads if the left front is worn. At the very least, both front brakes. You want them to ALL work as a team. Pat On 4/23/2013 11:01 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote: > John Summers wrote: >> I think my left front brake is worn out. Is it a big deal to fix? > If it just worn pads, no problem. If the worn pads have chewed up the > rotor, > more complicated. > > mjb. > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pfischer at rmi.net From mark at bradakis.com Mon Apr 29 12:49:52 2013 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2013 12:49:52 -0600 Subject: [TR] 2000 Sedan for sale in San Diego In-Reply-To: <1367244103.19100.YahooMailNeo@web121602.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1367244103.19100.YahooMailNeo@web121602.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <517EC0D0.90100@bradakis.com> Almost close enough... mjb. From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Mon Apr 29 14:18:51 2013 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2013 13:18:51 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] 2000 Sedan for sale in San Diego In-Reply-To: <517EC0D0.90100@bradakis.com> References: <1367244103.19100.YahooMailNeo@web121602.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <517EC0D0.90100@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <1367266731.82487.YahooMailNeo@web120004.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> i could take a cursory look if some one is really wanting it. its about an hour drive for me, so please don't send me if your not that interested. i have plenty of honey-do's right now. Frank Temecula CA From: Mark J Bradakis To: Triumph List Sent: Monday, April 29, 2013 11:49 AM Subject: Re: [TR] 2000 Sedan for sale in San Diego Almost close enough... mjb. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Apr 29 14:41:02 2013 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2013 16:41:02 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Block color Message-ID: <12471.6dc52f4.3eb034dd@cs.com> A few weeks back there was some discussion about non-black engine blocks from the factory. The consensus was that some were, indeed, delivered in a color other than black. However, I forgot what color. Can someone remind me? Thanks and sorry for the bandwidth. Dave From wbeech at flash.net Mon Apr 29 15:32:59 2013 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2013 16:32:59 -0500 Subject: [TR] Block color In-Reply-To: <12471.6dc52f4.3eb034dd@cs.com> References: <12471.6dc52f4.3eb034dd@cs.com> Message-ID: <4E5B5CBF02204845AFAA88700CFBF70A@bboffice> There were coments that engines sent back for re-building were painted red. If the number on your engine is the correct one for your car I should think that it should be black. BTW, the VTR Judging Guide states engine block and head should be black. Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby" '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab) www.triumphowners.com/1566 '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" "Even if you are on the right track, you'll get run over if you just sit there" Will Rodgers -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave1massey at cs.com Sent: Monday, April 29, 2013 3:41 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Block color A few weeks back there was some discussion about non-black engine blocks from the factory. The consensus was that some were, indeed, delivered in a color other than black. However, I forgot what color. Can someone remind me? Thanks and sorry for the bandwidth. Dave ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Mon Apr 29 16:12:10 2013 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2013 18:12:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] 2000 Sedan for sale in San Diego In-Reply-To: <1367266731.82487.YahooMailNeo@web120004.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1367244103.19100.YahooMailNeo@web121602.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <517EC0D0.90100@bradakis.com> <1367266731.82487.YahooMailNeo@web120004.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I can't have another triumph in the fold until I can find one that gets 37 miles to the gallon....... From mhooper at indiefilmnet.com Mon Apr 29 16:57:00 2013 From: mhooper at indiefilmnet.com (Mark Hooper) Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2013 18:57:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] 2000 Sedan for sale in San Diego In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Triumph Bonneville?... Mark 1972 TR6 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Simo Sent: April-29-13 6:12 PM To: list Triumph Subject: Re: [TR] 2000 Sedan for sale in San Diego I can't have another triumph in the fold until I can find one that gets 37 miles to the gallon....... From dave1massey at cs.com Mon Apr 29 20:46:07 2013 From: dave1massey at cs.com (Dave Massey) Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2013 22:46:07 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Block color In-Reply-To: <4E5B5CBF02204845AFAA88700CFBF70A@bboffice> References: <12471.6dc52f4.3eb034dd@cs.com> <4E5B5CBF02204845AFAA88700CFBF70A@bboffice> Message-ID: <8D01363FFA960D8-AB8-63C7@Webmail-m107.sysops.aol.com> Good point. But Appendix 1 (Modified Touring Class) states that the engine may be from any model car in the series. One could interpret this as being a rebuild (AKA red) engine. ;-) Thanks Dave Massey -----Original Message----- From: wbeech There were coments that engines sent back for re-building were painted red. If the number on your engine is the correct one for your car I should think that it should be black. BTW, the VTR Judging Guide states engine block and head should be black. Bill Bill Beecher From spook01 at comcast.net Tue Apr 30 02:20:21 2013 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2013 03:20:21 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Block_color?= Message-ID: Maybe. You can spend time arguing with the guys with clipboards. Two hours everytime you show your car sounds like a waste of time. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Dave Massey" To: Subject: [TR] Block color Date: Mon, Apr 29, 2013 21:46 Good point. But Appendix 1 (Modified Touring Class) states that the engine may be from any model car in the series. One could interpret this as being a rebuild (AKA red) engine. ;-) Thanks Dave Massey -----Original Message----- From: wbeech There were coments that engines sent back for re-building were painted red. If the number on your engine is the correct one for your car I should think that it should be black. BTW, the VTR Judging Guide states engine block and head should be black. Bill Bill Beecher ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Apr 30 05:58:31 2013 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2013 07:58:31 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Block color Message-ID: <1f083.56d55a52.3eb10be7@cs.com> Well, it's all for fun. If it ain't fun, don't do it. Dave In a message dated 4/30/2013 3:20:24 AM Central Daylight Time, spook01 at comcast.net writes: > Maybe. You can spend time arguing with the guys with clipboards. Two > hours everytime you show your car sounds like a waste of time. From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk Tue Apr 30 11:54:46 2013 From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2013 18:54:46 +0100 (BST) Subject: [TR] Block color In-Reply-To: <12471.6dc52f4.3eb034dd@cs.com> References: <12471.6dc52f4.3eb034dd@cs.com> Message-ID: <1367344486.45120.YahooMailNeo@web171904.mail.ir2.yahoo.com> Hi, Dave I can't comment on block colours post 1972 for any car out of Standard-Triumph but from 1946 until that date, they were (mainly) black. Exceptions were on the small 4 cylinder which for a while were painted in gold. This was the famous Gold Star engine that appeared in about 1957 on the Standard Eight and Ten saloons. Gold continued for a while on the valve covers of the same engine until the company was eventually able to get out from under the paint contract it had signed with Pinchin and Johnson for later models of the Ferguson tractor which was sold in Grey with a gold engine block and skidded unit. The company was obliged to run with the contract for some years after the tractor business was sold to Massey Harris. All that to one side, factory reconditioned engines that were offered to the UK and European dealer network and done by Beans Industries (a group company) were painted a 'yucky' blue that wasn't too dis-similar from Ford Blue. I greatly doubt any of this engines ever got to your side of the pond as their release was entirely dependent on good usable core units being available to rebuild. AFAIK, Stag and Slant 4 engines were all black with silver valve/cam covers. Jonmac From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Apr 30 12:34:48 2013 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2013 14:34:48 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Block color Message-ID: <2ad4c.4e41b2ca.3eb168c8@cs.com> Thanks for the authoritative response. I will archive it properly. Cheers. Dave In a message dated 4/30/2013 12:54:47 PM Central Daylight Time, flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk writes: > I can't comment on block colours post 1972 for any car out of > Standard-Triumph but from 1946 until that date, they were (mainly) black. Exceptions > were on the small 4 cylinder which for a while were painted in gold. This > was the famous Gold Star engine that appeared in about 1957 on the Standard > Eight and Ten saloons. Gold continued for a while on the valve covers of the > same engine until the company was eventually able to get out from under > the paint contract it had signed with Pinchin and Johnson for later models of > the Ferguson tractor which was sold in Grey with a gold engine block and > skidded unit. The company was obliged to run with the contract for some > years after the tractor business was sold to Massey Harris. All that to one > side, factory reconditioned engines that were offered to the UK and European > dealer network and done by Beans Industries (a group company) were painted a > 'yucky' blue that wasn't too dis-similar from Ford Blue. I greatly doubt > any of this engines ever got to your side of the pond as their release was > entirely dependent on good usable core units being available to rebuild. > AFAIK, Stag and Slant 4 engines were all black with silver valve/cam covers. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Apr 30 13:21:21 2013 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2013 19:21:21 +0000 Subject: [TR] Block color In-Reply-To: <1367344486.45120.YahooMailNeo@web171904.mail.ir2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20130430192121.068S1.136547.root@cdptpa-web01-z01> ---- John Macartney wrote: > All that to one side, > factory reconditioned engines that were offered to the UK and European dealer > network and done by Beans Industries (a group company) were painted a 'yucky' > blue that wasn't too dis-similar from Ford Blue. That's interesting. TS13571L came to me with the head and block painted a yucky blue. Similar to Ford blue, but not quite the same (more towards light gray than the Ford color). I figured it was from the previous owner, but maybe ... Randall From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com Tue Apr 30 14:19:28 2013 From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (Brian Induni) Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2013 13:19:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] 2000 Sedan for sale in San Diego Message-ID: <003c01ce45e0$04a50ec0$0def2c40$@roadrunner.com> I actually stumbled across this car when I visited the dealership that has it. I went in looking at all the other great cars they have, and the sales person (can't recall his name) asked if I like Triumphs. "Of course!" was my answer. He took me to look at this car, and I was not very impressed. First off, it's a Triumph 2000, a 4 door sedan family car. On top of that, the floors were rusted through, along with a few spots on the top of the bonnet. The interior is shot too. He said that he just got the car running, but I didn't witness it. It did look complete though, so if you were to take on a restoration of this sort, you'd have a pretty good basis to start with from a parts standpoint. But parts is about what I thought it was worth, IMHO. Brian