From JGILLIS at tcd.ie  Sat Sep  1 14:01:47 2012
From: JGILLIS at tcd.ie (John Gillis)
Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2012 21:01:47 +0100
Subject: [TR] leaky H4
Message-ID: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB0345097A64FE@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>

Hello all  - Still smiling with TR2 driving, but eager to improve the little
things; The rear carb is leaving some fuel behind after a run, and on
inspection it is leaking out through the choke. I took out the jet and
bearings, I changed those little cork sealing washers and the larger cork
washer. Put it all back together and centered the jet and other bits, but it
started leaking straight away while sitting in the garage! Is there any pre
prep of the cork, soaking in oil etc. I am guessing the lower cork washer and
copper cupped washer is the exit point for the leak. HELP!
Regards
John

From wbeech at flash.net  Sat Sep  1 14:09:35 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2012 15:09:35 -0500
Subject: [TR] leaky H4
In-Reply-To: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB0345097A64FE@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>
References: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB0345097A64FE@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>
Message-ID: <961B4FB3-CBFE-477B-AFB1-C0C9AEC953E5@flash.net>

How old are your cork bits?  Soak in clean motor oil for 24hrs, and give
another try.

All the best,
Bill

Sent from mobile Bill

On Sep 1, 2012, at 3:01 PM, John Gillis <JGILLIS at tcd.ie> wrote:

> Hello all  - Still smiling with TR2 driving, but eager to improve the
little
> things; The rear carb is leaving some fuel behind after a run, and on
> inspection it is leaking out through the choke. I took out the jet and
> bearings, I changed those little cork sealing washers and the larger cork
> washer. Put it all back together and centered the jet and other bits, but
it
> started leaking straight away while sitting in the garage! Is there any pre
> prep of the cork, soaking in oil etc. I am guessing the lower cork washer
and
> copper cupped washer is the exit point for the leak. HELP!
> Regards
> John
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From greg at gelhar.com  Sat Sep  1 14:30:12 2012
From: greg at gelhar.com (Greg  Gelhar)
Date: Sat, 1 Sep 2012 15:30:12 -0500
Subject: [TR] leaky H4
References: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB0345097A64FE@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>
Message-ID: <153BABFD51F34009AEEB6AD4EDFC3CB1@triumph>

Inspect your jet assembly. I recently found a carburetor leaking fuel at the 
clevis at the bottom of the jet. There must not be any looseness where the 
jet tube and clevis join together. The cork gaskets should be immersed in 
light oil for a day before assembly.

Greg G.
Osseo, MN


Subject: [TR] leaky H4


> Hello all  - Still smiling with TR2 driving, but eager to improve the 
> little
> things; The rear carb is leaving some fuel behind after a run, and on
> inspection it is leaking out through the choke. I took out the jet and
> bearings, I changed those little cork sealing washers and the larger cork
> washer. Put it all back together and centered the jet and other bits, but 
> it
> started leaking straight away while sitting in the garage! Is there any 
> pre
> prep of the cork, soaking in oil etc. I am guessing the lower cork washer 
> and
> copper cupped washer is the exit point for the leak. HELP!
> Regards
> John

From JGILLIS at tcd.ie  Sun Sep  2 11:29:28 2012
From: JGILLIS at tcd.ie (John Gillis)
Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2012 18:29:28 +0100
Subject: [TR] Leaky H4 and U tube
Message-ID: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB0345097A64FF@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>

Thanks all for the advice, this combined with a guy called John Twist from
University Motors on U Tube did the job, soaked my cork gaskets and re
centered the jet, dry as a bone. Although I do think I will follow up on
Randal's advice and get myself neoprene replacements.
Regards
John
1954 TR2

From elliottr at rmi.net  Mon Sep  3 10:57:50 2012
From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott)
Date: Mon, 03 Sep 2012 11:57:50 -0500
Subject: [TR] Spitfire Seat Back
Message-ID: <5044E18E.8000900@rmi.net>

Hi All,

I was on my way to a car show in Kansas City Saturday and all of a 
sudden the seat back in my 80 Spitfire reclined way back.  The seat back 
catch just doesn't catch.

I took the seat out of the car and pulled the upholstery up far enough 
that I can see the seat catch mechanism, but I still can't tell for sure 
how it works (too much is hidden by the frame).  The frame is not broken.

Has anyone else experienced this?  I don't know if TR6s would use the 
same type of mechanism.

Any way to fix it without finding a replacement seat frame?

Thanks,
Roger Elliott
1980 Spitfire

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Mon Sep  3 16:22:35 2012
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2012 18:22:35 -0400
Subject: [TR] Rotating radial tires/tyres
Message-ID: <016401cd8a22$a16081b0$e4218510$@uprichard.net>

OK, so what is the combined wisdom of the lists when it comes to rotating
radials?  

Some claim once a radial is used on, say, the driver's side it cannot be
moved to the passenger - so "rotating" means front-to-rear and vice versa.
Others poo-poo this restriction and say "rotate away!"

What do Triumph owners say?  And let's not have the obvious answer, "
Radial?  What's a radial?"  !!

Andrew Uprichard

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Sep  3 17:08:23 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2012 16:08:23 -0700
Subject: [TR] Rotating radial tires/tyres
In-Reply-To: <016401cd8a22$a16081b0$e4218510$@uprichard.net>
References: <016401cd8a22$a16081b0$e4218510$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <046701cd8a29$04b845d0$0601a8c0@randall>

> OK, so what is the combined wisdom of the lists when it comes 
> to rotating radials?  

I rotate mine regularly.  In fact, I just got back from several thousand
rotations.

-- Randall  

From pethier at comcast.net  Mon Sep  3 17:39:07 2012
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2012 23:39:07 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Rotating radial tires/tyres
In-Reply-To: <016401cd8a22$a16081b0$e4218510$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <2002753029.1321577.1346715547943.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

In the early days of Radials, that was true, but not now, except for tires with unidirectional tread patterns.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier at comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://www.mnautox.com

----- Original Message -----
> From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard at uprichard.net>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net, 6pack at autox.team.net
> Sent: Monday, September 3, 2012 5:22:35 PM
> Subject: [TR] Rotating radial tires/tyres
> OK, so what is the combined wisdom of the lists when it comes to
> rotating
> radials?
> 
> Some claim once a radial is used on, say, the driver's side it cannot
> be
> moved to the passenger - so "rotating" means front-to-rear and vice
> versa.
> Others poo-poo this restriction and say "rotate away!"
> 
> What do Triumph owners say? And let's not have the obvious answer, "
> Radial? What's a radial?" !!
> 
> Andrew Uprichard
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net

From McGaheyRx at aol.com  Mon Sep  3 17:43:34 2012
From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2012 19:43:34 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Rotating radial tires/tyres
Message-ID: <304c.3f6033ae.3d769aa5@aol.com>

In a message dated 9/3/2012 7:31:29 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
TR3driver at ca.rr.com writes:

I rotate  mine regularly.  In fact, I just got back from several  thousand
rotations.



wow - don't know what size tires you have, but at 700 to 900 rotations  per 
mile, you didn't go very far on several thousand rotations, did  you?
 
Cheers,
Jack Mc

From wbeech at flash.net  Mon Sep  3 18:38:49 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2012 19:38:49 -0500
Subject: [TR] Rotating radial tires/tyres
In-Reply-To: <016401cd8a22$a16081b0$e4218510$@uprichard.net>
References: <016401cd8a22$a16081b0$e4218510$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <D1C7102CAAC245599068C5363C337EE7@bboffice>

I only rotate front-to-back-to-front, my Ford dealer rotates my
detroitmobile tires in the crossing pattern RF-to-LR; LR-to-LF; LF-to-RR;
RR-to RF

Never had a failure or odd wear pattern either way.  I think my
front-to-back method may be old school based on older radial recommendation.


Of course, if you are running a directional tread pattern you can only
rotate front-to-back, BTDT paid the price.

Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow"
M.Andretti


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard
Sent: Monday, September 03, 2012 5:23 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Rotating radial tires/tyres

OK, so what is the combined wisdom of the lists when it comes to rotating
radials?  

Some claim once a radial is used on, say, the driver's side it cannot be
moved to the passenger - so "rotating" means front-to-rear and vice versa.
Others poo-poo this restriction and say "rotate away!"

What do Triumph owners say?  And let's not have the obvious answer, "
Radial?  What's a radial?"  !!

Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Sep  3 19:33:55 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2012 18:33:55 -0700
Subject: [TR] Rotating radial tires/tyres
In-Reply-To: <304c.3f6033ae.3d769aa5@aol.com>
References: <304c.3f6033ae.3d769aa5@aol.com>
Message-ID: <04d101cd8a3d$597ffa90$0601a8c0@randall>

> wow - don't know what size tires you have, but at 700 to 900 
> rotations per mile, you didn't go very far on several 
> thousand rotations, did you?

Nope, just ran over to the store for some odds & ends.

-- Randall  

From dave at ranteer.com  Mon Sep  3 19:37:55 2012
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2012 20:37:55 -0500
Subject: [TR] Rotating radial tires/tyres
In-Reply-To: <D1C7102CAAC245599068C5363C337EE7@bboffice>
References: <016401cd8a22$a16081b0$e4218510$@uprichard.net>
	<D1C7102CAAC245599068C5363C337EE7@bboffice>
Message-ID: <6EAE05E6C933401BB7AAE6C45DC33CFA@Spitfire>

my daughter has a 350z - the front and rears are different sizes, so no 
rotation at all!!!! 

From dctr6 at optonline.net  Tue Sep  4 14:03:41 2012
From: dctr6 at optonline.net (Dennis Culligan)
Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2012 16:03:41 -0400
Subject: [TR] Rotating tyres
Message-ID: <003b01cd8ad8$617af6f0$2470e4d0$@net>

  While we're talking about tires. I recently noticed some wear on the
outside edge of the 

right front tire on my '76 TR6 so I decided to rotate as I usually do, front
to rear to front.  

However, upon further inspection, I could not help but notice that both
right side tires, front 

AND rear, were decidedly more worn across the whole tire (not just the edge)
than the left 

side tires. How exactly does this happen?  The right sides are nearly shot
while the lefts look 

fine.  Tires are Vredestein Sprint Classics and have about 25,000 miles on
them. Any ideas?

Dennis Culligan, Highland NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U      

From edwd at ti.com  Tue Sep  4 14:34:57 2012
From: edwd at ti.com (Fisher, Ed)
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2012 20:34:57 +0000
Subject: [TR] rotating tires
Message-ID: <67A276399E247245AC2050FC103C4E8A3ECD653C@DLEE08.ent.ti.com>

I usually rotate my non-directional radials front to back, same side.
However, last time I rotated the drive wheels straight back, and the non-drive
wheels across front to back.  Since this was on a front wheel drive car, RF
went to RR.  LF went to LR.  RR went to LF.  LR went to RF.  I saw it on a
tire website.  No difference noted in the last 3k miles or so.

Ed Fisher
Dallas, Tx

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Tue Sep  4 15:21:05 2012
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2012 16:21:05 -0500
Subject: [TR] Rotating tyres
In-Reply-To: <003b01cd8ad8$617af6f0$2470e4d0$@net>
References: <003b01cd8ad8$617af6f0$2470e4d0$@net>
Message-ID: <SNT123-W18164297CFE73073A2D776E1AA0@phx.gbl>

Too many two wheel turns?

Rich White Central, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF###L
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!



> Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2012 16:03:41 -0400
> From: dctr6 at optonline.net
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] Rotating tyres
>
> While we're talking about tires. I recently noticed some wear on the
> outside edge of the
>
> right front tire on my '76 TR6 so I decided to rotate as I usually do,
front
> to rear to front.
>
> However, upon further inspection, I could not help but notice that both
> right side tires, front
>
> AND rear, were decidedly more worn across the whole tire (not just the
edge)
> than the left
>
> side tires. How exactly does this happen? The right sides are nearly shot
> while the lefts look
>
> fine. Tires are Vredestein Sprint Classics and have about 25,000 miles on
> them. Any ideas?
>
> Dennis Culligan, Highland NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com

From spitlist at cox.net  Tue Sep  4 15:24:59 2012
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2012 14:24:59 -0700
Subject: [TR] Rotating tyres
In-Reply-To: <003b01cd8ad8$617af6f0$2470e4d0$@net>
References: <003b01cd8ad8$617af6f0$2470e4d0$@net>
Message-ID: <60678502F6D7473AB1545AF1DCD1EDAD@Vista>

Turn left occasionally!  :)

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dennis Culligan
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2012 1:04 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Rotating tyres

  While we're talking about tires. I recently noticed some wear on the
outside edge of the 

right front tire on my '76 TR6 so I decided to rotate as I usually do, front
to rear to front.  

However, upon further inspection, I could not help but notice that both
right side tires, front 

AND rear, were decidedly more worn across the whole tire (not just the edge)
than the left 

side tires. How exactly does this happen?  The right sides are nearly shot
while the lefts look 

fine.  Tires are Vredestein Sprint Classics and have about 25,000 miles on
them. Any ideas?

Dennis Culligan, Highland NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U      

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Sep  4 16:27:36 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (tr3driver at ca.rr.com)
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2012 18:27:36 -0400
Subject: [TR] Rotating tyres
In-Reply-To: <003b01cd8ad8$617af6f0$2470e4d0$@net>
Message-ID: <20120904222736.KGA72.233239.root@cdptpa-web19-z01>

---- Dennis Culligan <dctr6 at optonline.net> wrote: 

> However, upon further inspection, I could not help but notice that both
> right side tires, front  AND rear, were decidedly more worn across the whole tire (not just the edge)
> than the left side tires. How exactly does this happen?  

This points up one of the reasons I am resistant to shuffling tires around.  If you had let them be, you would know without doubt which corner had a problem.  Now all you know is that either the RF or the RR has a problem, maybe both of them.

The main point of rotating tires appears to be so the tire company can sell you 4 tires at a time, rather than just one or two.

--- Randall

From elliottr at rmi.net  Tue Sep  4 18:07:22 2012
From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott)
Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2012 19:07:22 -0500
Subject: [TR] charging sytem
Message-ID: <504697BA.4060001@rmi.net>

Hi All,

About a week ago I replaced my battery that was about 7 years old - I 
figured it had served long enough.  It was an inexpensive battery to 
start with.

I replaced it in part because my voltmeter was reading low and the tach 
and overdrive would quit working at times.  In the back of my mind I new 
it probably was more than the battery even though it happened mainly at 
lower speeds.

Well the voltmeter is still reading between 12 and 13 (both gauge and 
VOM).  So I put a new alternator on it.  Well, it is still reading about 
12 volts.

I did clean the battery terminals.

Any suggestions on what I should look at next?

Thanks
Roger Elliott
1980 Spitfire

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Tue Sep  4 18:53:31 2012
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2012 20:53:31 -0400
Subject: [TR] New lift followed me home
Message-ID: <CANhzkeOYHKynB+tejG1hrAx8AJtCErYrL2UCqJ6tWxg=s7KMgQ@mail.gmail.com>

A rusty vehicle lift followed me home today. Its a qp-6000 quick lift.  The
new tr6 seems to ride it just fine.

It picked up my truck just fine. It looks very rough and there is
rustoleum  in its future.

It fits the six just great and hits the frame fully. Now to see how it
works with the 4 and the 2.

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Tue Sep  4 19:18:07 2012
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2012 20:18:07 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] Rotating tyres
Message-ID: <6326555.1726703.1346807887194.JavaMail.root@vms170027>

Never rotated tires on any of my vehicles including my 72 TR6 for the reasons Randall cited below.

Craig


On 09/04/12, tr3driver at ca.rr.com wrote:

---- Dennis Culligan <dctr6 at optonline.net> wrote: 

> However, upon further inspection, I could not help but notice that both
> right side tires, front AND rear, were decidedly more worn across the whole tire (not just the edge)
> than the left side tires. How exactly does this happen? 

This points up one of the reasons I am resistant to shuffling tires around. If you had let them be, you would know without doubt which corner had a problem. Now all you know is that either the RF or the RR has a problem, maybe both of them.

The main point of rotating tires appears to be so the tire company can sell you 4 tires at a time, rather than just one or two.

--- Randall

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From elliottr at rmi.net  Tue Sep  4 19:25:09 2012
From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott)
Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2012 20:25:09 -0500
Subject: [TR] charging sytem
In-Reply-To: <504697BA.4060001@rmi.net>
References: <504697BA.4060001@rmi.net>
Message-ID: <5046A9F5.8020004@rmi.net>

New question:  is there a coating somewhere on the alternator that would 
prevent it from operating until it is worn off?

I just checked again and now with the brights on and the heater fan on 
high the gauge in the car is reading over 13 and a reading between the 
alternator and the battery is 14.2 at just above idle.

So I guess it is working.

Roger
> Well the voltmeter is still reading between 12 and 13 (both gauge and 
> VOM).  So I put a new alternator on it.  Well, it is still reading 
> about 12 volts.
>
> I did clean the battery terminals.
>
> Any suggestions on what I should look at next?
>
> Thanks
> Roger Elliott
> 1980 Spitfire

From aljlthomson at charter.net  Tue Sep  4 19:32:22 2012
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson)
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2012 21:32:22 -0400
Subject: [TR] charging sytem
In-Reply-To: <504697BA.4060001@rmi.net>
References: <504697BA.4060001@rmi.net>
Message-ID: <000601cd8b06$4c03e240$e40ba6c0$@charter.net>

Check to make sure that the body is well grounded. There is often a bonding
strap that connects the engine block to the body. Those straps often
disintegrate with age. Also, look for voltage drops along the insulated
circuit that feeds all of the accessories. With heater fan on, lights on,
and anything else that can be turned on, there should be no more than about
0.2 volts drop from the insulated battery post to each of the accessory
items.

Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Roger Elliott
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2012 8:07 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] charging sytem

Hi All,

About a week ago I replaced my battery that was about 7 years old - I
figured it had served long enough.  It was an inexpensive battery to start
with.

I replaced it in part because my voltmeter was reading low and the tach and
overdrive would quit working at times.  In the back of my mind I new it
probably was more than the battery even though it happened mainly at lower
speeds.

Well the voltmeter is still reading between 12 and 13 (both gauge and VOM).
So I put a new alternator on it.  Well, it is still reading about
12 volts.

I did clean the battery terminals.

Any suggestions on what I should look at next?

Thanks
Roger Elliott
1980 Spitfire

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From wbeech at flash.net  Tue Sep  4 22:42:43 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Tue, 4 Sep 2012 23:42:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] New lift followed me home
In-Reply-To: <CANhzkeOYHKynB+tejG1hrAx8AJtCErYrL2UCqJ6tWxg=s7KMgQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANhzkeOYHKynB+tejG1hrAx8AJtCErYrL2UCqJ6tWxg=s7KMgQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <9605E2C757774C799D43A93D25D961ED@bboffice>

Congratulations, if you see any more strays out there give a call and I will
help you round them up.
B 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Simo
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2012 7:54 PM
To: list Triumph
Subject: [TR] New lift followed me home

A rusty vehicle lift followed me home today. Its a qp-6000 quick lift.  The
new tr6 seems to ride it just fine.

It picked up my truck just fine. It looks very rough and there is rustoleum
in its future.

It fits the six just great and hits the frame fully. Now to see how it works
with the 4 and the 2.

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Sep  5 05:46:16 2012
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2012 07:46:16 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] New lift followed me home
Message-ID: <3b49b.4a469f17.3d789588@cs.com>

Cheese!  You're just living right.

One problem, though.  Three cars but only one lift.

Dave

In a message dated 9/4/2012 9:18:03 PM Central Daylight Time, 
ccsimonsen at gmail.com writes: 
> A rusty vehicle lift followed me home today. Its a qp-6000 quick lift.  
> The
> new tr6 seems to ride it just fine.
> 
> It picked up my truck just fine. It looks very rough and there is
> rustoleum  in its future.
> 
> It fits the six just great and hits the frame fully. Now to see how it
> works with the 4 and the 2.

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Sep  5 06:09:30 2012
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2012 08:09:30 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] charging sytem
Message-ID: <3bc30.343d536b.3d789afa@cs.com>

The big brown wire from the alternator plugs into the battery cable along 
with some other brown wires.  These other wires feed the electrical system.  
After 32 years these contacts can get a bit corroded and stop conducting 
electricity.  If the alternator wire stops making good contact your battery 
will not charge even if the alternator is good.  

Unplug and replug these wires to clean off the terminals.  Apply some 
dielectric grease to prevent further corrosion.  Easy stuff.

Dave

In a message dated 9/4/2012 9:21:56 PM Central Daylight Time, 
elliottr at rmi.net writes: 
> New question:  is there a coating somewhere on the alternator that would 
> prevent it from operating until it is worn off?
> 
> I just checked again and now with the brights on and the heater fan on 
> high the gauge in the car is reading over 13 and a reading between the 
> alternator and the battery is 14.2 at just above idle.
> 
> So I guess it is working.

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Wed Sep  5 06:32:59 2012
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2012 08:32:59 -0400
Subject: [TR] Rotating tyres
Message-ID: <003a01cd8b62$96918ef0$c3b4acd0$@uprichard.net>

Thanks to all who replied individually and to the list.  Always insightful !

Andrew

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of EdB
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2012 10:28 PM
To: Dennis Culligan; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Rotating tyres

Dennis:

 My own observations also show the right rear tire wears more, particularly
on a rear wheel drive car or truck.  I had a flat tire recently on my Toyota
truck RR tire, and was shocked to see the amount of tire wear in 31,000
miles.  It was obvious that the left rear tire was not worn nearly as much. 
I was thinking of buying a tire tread gauge so I could take measurements of
the tread on each of my tires.

The only explanation I have for this difference in wear is that the
rotational torque of the driveline puts more force on the right hand rear
tire.  When you accelerate hard, the first wheel to squeal or peel is the
right tire.  And I know that I often accelerate a little bit hard while
driving around in the city.

I cannot explain why your front right tire surface would wear more than the
left tire except you may do more left hand turns under power where the
vehicle weight shifts to the right tire.  The outside edge tire wear is
usually a symptom of hard cornering, which is at least half the fun of
driving a British sports car.

Ed Bratt
Regina, Saskatchewan

1976 TR6


----- Original Message -----
From: "Dennis Culligan" <dctr6 at optonline.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>; <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2012 2:03 PM
Subject: [6pack] Rotating tyres


>  While we're talking about tires. I recently noticed some wear on the
> outside edge of the
>
> right front tire on my '76 TR6 so I decided to rotate as I usually do, 
> front
> to rear to front.
>
> However, upon further inspection, I could not help but notice that both
> right side tires, front
>
> AND rear, were decidedly more worn across the whole tire (not just the 
> edge)
> than the left
>
> side tires. How exactly does this happen?  The right sides are nearly shot
> while the lefts look
>
> fine.  Tires are Vredestein Sprint Classics and have about 25,000 miles on
> them. Any ideas?
>
> Dennis Culligan, Highland NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/bratt at sasktel.net
>
>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2012.0.2197 / Virus Database: 2437/5249 - Release Date: 09/04/12

________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/auprichard at uprichard.net

From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com  Wed Sep  5 06:38:56 2012
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2012 05:38:56 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Tyre rotation
Message-ID: <1346848736.23315.YahooMailNeo@web39404.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi List!
-------
Message: 7
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2012 20:37:55 -0500
From: "Dave"
<dave at ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>, <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Rotating radial tires/tyres

my daughter has a 350z - the
front and rears are different sizes, so no 
rotation at all!!!! 
-------------
Dave, what do you do for carrying a spare tyre? Do you carry one small
(dough-nut) tyre, or two (One of each size? This was one of the biggest
reasons the I didn't peddle with two different size wheels on my bicycle,
because I had to carry at lease one of each size tyre & tube.
 
Back to the
main topic's thread about how (direction) to rotate tyres:
I go the
conventional way of rotating radial tyres (front to rear & vise versa). I
don't have directional tyres on the Garage Queen (TR4A), but on my other cars
I do (so I'm in that habit now & I don't see any reason to change it.). This
way, when I see tyre wear, I com-pair wheels to known that it's either the
front or the rear of that one side to correct when going into for wheel
alignment. I also rotate around 3,333 miles when I do the Oil & Filter change
& lube the entire car, along with other maintenance (waxing the under
carriage, etc.) at that mile marker.
 
Is that to often in rotating?

-Cosmo
Kramer

From dave at ranteer.com  Wed Sep  5 11:38:02 2012
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2012 12:38:02 -0500
Subject: [TR] Tyre rotation
In-Reply-To: <1346848736.23315.YahooMailNeo@web39404.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <1346848736.23315.YahooMailNeo@web39404.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <38DC8D91332E4AB5B1B4B76BAE4B3488@Spitfire>

she carries just one spare - the wheels are the same bolt pattern, so it 
doesn't matter.  and, btw, she had a flat recently and really tried to 
change it herself.  but she couldn't get the lugs off so she ended up 
calling me.  since then I have gotten her a wrench extender

-----Original Message----- 
From: Cosmo Kramer
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2012 7:38 AM
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Tyre rotation

Hi List!
-------
Message: 7
Date: Mon, 3 Sep 2012 20:37:55 -0500
From: "Dave"
<dave at ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>, <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Rotating radial tires/tyres

my daughter has a 350z - the
front and rears are different sizes, so no
rotation at all!!!!
-------------
Dave, what do you do for carrying a spare tyre? Do you carry one small
(dough-nut) tyre, or two (One of each size? This was one of the biggest
reasons the I didn't peddle with two different size wheels on my bicycle,
because I had to carry at lease one of each size tyre & tube.

Back to the 

From lee at automate-it.com  Wed Sep  5 14:14:12 2012
From: lee at automate-it.com (Lee Daniels)
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2012 15:14:12 -0500
Subject: [TR] Triumph service bulletins formerly at "little mac shop"?
In-Reply-To: <8CF24758AAFF7BD-FA4-193FD@webmail-d146.sysops.aol.com>
References: <mailman.17.1340992803.27699.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<8CF24758AAFF7BD-FA4-193FD@webmail-d146.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <eec42b09d33098c41940b2026610a81c.squirrel@www.automate-it.com>

Not too long ago someone was hosting a good selection of Triumph service
bulletins; the URL that I saved was:
  http://www.thelittlemacshop.com/trsite/bulletins.html
but that link is now dead.

In fact the site appears to be gone with the exception of
http://www.thelittlemacshop.com/ - but it's obviously nothing related. BUT
note at the bottom of the page the remnant of a link labelled "Triumph list
member area".

Anyone know if these are still available? Triumphs Only still has a nice
selection here:
  http://www.triumphsonly.com/pages/main/techinfo.html


Lee

From elliottr at rmi.net  Wed Sep  5 18:25:24 2012
From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott)
Date: Wed, 05 Sep 2012 19:25:24 -0500
Subject: [TR] charging sytem
In-Reply-To: <000601cd8b06$4c03e240$e40ba6c0$@charter.net>
References: <504697BA.4060001@rmi.net>
	<000601cd8b06$4c03e240$e40ba6c0$@charter.net>
Message-ID: <5047ED74.3070602@rmi.net>

Thanks everyone for the suggestions!

Roger Elliott
On 09/04/2012 08:32 PM, Alex & Janet Thomson wrote:
> Check to make sure that the body is well grounded. ...
>
> Alex Thomson
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> Subject: [TR] charging sytem
>
> Hi All,
>
>
> Any suggestions on what I should look at next?
>
> Thanks
> Roger Elliott
> 1980 Spitfire

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Wed Sep  5 19:12:40 2012
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2012 18:12:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] seat tracks
Message-ID: <1346893960.90962.YahooMailNeo@web120602.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Just put my new seat tracks in (tr-3) and tightened them down but sliding the
seat on was a chore.  I also find they don't slide back and forth very well at
all.  I'm slightly disappointed but think over time things will get better. 
Just wondering if others have had the same thing happen.  I've bolted the
tracks on the floor over the carpet.

thanks

gary n.

From alansalvy at gmail.com  Wed Sep  5 21:43:46 2012
From: alansalvy at gmail.com (alan salvatore)
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2012 23:43:46 -0400
Subject: [TR] seat tracks
In-Reply-To: <1346893960.90962.YahooMailNeo@web120602.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1346893960.90962.YahooMailNeo@web120602.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAAAEehTeLstDQH7gBfpWkmBhQe2JcQBW0MXgUX2O6cubFzpcsw@mail.gmail.com>

There should be a spacer between the frame and the carpet.

I've sprayed WD40 on the tracks to get them to slide.

Al

On Wed, Sep 5, 2012 at 9:12 PM, Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg at yahoo.com> wrote:

> Just put my new seat tracks in (tr-3) and tightened them down but sliding
> the
> seat on was a chore.  I also find they don't slide back and forth very
> well at
> all.  I'm slightly disappointed but think over time things will get better.
> Just wondering if others have had the same thing happen.  I've bolted the
> tracks on the floor over the carpet.
>
> thanks
>
> gary n.
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/alansalvy at gmail.com

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Sep  5 23:54:44 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2012 22:54:44 -0700
Subject: [TR] seat tracks
In-Reply-To: <CAAAEehTeLstDQH7gBfpWkmBhQe2JcQBW0MXgUX2O6cubFzpcsw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1346893960.90962.YahooMailNeo@web120602.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<CAAAEehTeLstDQH7gBfpWkmBhQe2JcQBW0MXgUX2O6cubFzpcsw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <074f01cd8bf4$1dbeb150$0601a8c0@randall>

> There should be a spacer between the frame and the carpet.

Do you have a reference or a part number for the spacer?  I've never seen
one.

-- Randall  

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Sep  5 23:57:29 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 5 Sep 2012 22:57:29 -0700
Subject: [TR] seat tracks
In-Reply-To: <1346893960.90962.YahooMailNeo@web120602.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1346893960.90962.YahooMailNeo@web120602.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <075301cd8bf4$7fd04890$0601a8c0@randall>

> Just put my new seat tracks in (tr-3) and tightened them down 
> but sliding the
> seat on was a chore.  I also find they don't slide back and 
> forth very well at
> all.  I'm slightly disappointed but think over time things 
> will get better. 
> Just wondering if others have had the same thing happen.  

Yup, that's been my experience with both old and new tracks.

One of the issues appears to be that the tracks don't wind up parallel, on
both the floor and the seat.  I haven't found a good solution, but I'm
tempted to make a dummy seat with holes, so the bolts into the floor could
be left loose until the dummy seat was installed to hold the tracks in the
proper location.

-- Randall  

From greg at gelhar.com  Thu Sep  6 00:51:14 2012
From: greg at gelhar.com (Greg  Gelhar)
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2012 01:51:14 -0500
Subject: [TR] seat tracks
References: <1346893960.90962.YahooMailNeo@web120602.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<CAAAEehTeLstDQH7gBfpWkmBhQe2JcQBW0MXgUX2O6cubFzpcsw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4E92916EC0584F3F97E92C062527EF38@triumph>

Al, do you know of any catalog reference for the spacers? The seat track 
design seems to lack the rigidity needed to hold any alignment.


Greg G.
Osseo, MN


----- Original Message ----- 
Subject: Re: [TR] seat tracks


> There should be a spacer between the frame and the carpet.
>
> I've sprayed WD40 on the tracks to get them to slide.
>
> Al
>
> On Wed, Sep 5, 2012 at 9:12 PM, Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg at yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> Just put my new seat tracks in (tr-3) and tightened them down but sliding
>> the
>> seat on was a chore.  I also find they don't slide back and forth very
>> well at
>> all.  I'm slightly disappointed but think over time things will get 
>> better.
>> Just wondering if others have had the same thing happen.  I've bolted the
>> tracks on the floor over the carpet.
>>
>> thanks
>>
>> gary n.

From alansalvy at gmail.com  Thu Sep  6 05:25:46 2012
From: alansalvy at gmail.com (alan salvatore)
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2012 07:25:46 -0400
Subject: [TR] seat tracks
In-Reply-To: <4E92916EC0584F3F97E92C062527EF38@triumph>
References: <1346893960.90962.YahooMailNeo@web120602.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<CAAAEehTeLstDQH7gBfpWkmBhQe2JcQBW0MXgUX2O6cubFzpcsw@mail.gmail.com>
	<4E92916EC0584F3F97E92C062527EF38@triumph>
Message-ID: <CAAAEehTah-CcQD5E8h4P==5hLNkyUwM6OawpkQzh=mGCuy2rUw@mail.gmail.com>

I don't have a tr3 catalog, but the TR6 TRF catalog lists it as WM67.

Spaces seat tracks from the floor.

$1.28 EACH

Al

On Thu, Sep 6, 2012 at 2:51 AM, Greg Gelhar <greg at gelhar.com> wrote:

> Al, do you know of any catalog reference for the spacers? The seat track
> design seems to lack the rigidity needed to hold any alignment.
>
>
> Greg G.
> Osseo, MN
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Re: [TR] seat tracks
>
>
>
> There should be a spacer between the frame and the carpet.
>>
>> I've sprayed WD40 on the tracks to get them to slide.
>>
>> Al
>>
>> On Wed, Sep 5, 2012 at 9:12 PM, Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg at yahoo.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> Just put my new seat tracks in (tr-3) and tightened them down but sliding
>>> the
>>> seat on was a chore.  I also find they don't slide back and forth very
>>> well at
>>> all.  I'm slightly disappointed but think over time things will get
>>> better.
>>> Just wondering if others have had the same thing happen.  I've bolted the
>>> tracks on the floor over the carpet.
>>>
>>> thanks
>>>
>>> gary n.

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Sep  6 05:59:17 2012
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2012 07:59:17 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] seat tracks
Message-ID: <34868.2934c81e.3d79ea15@cs.com>

I just put new seat tracks in my TR3 and they slide quite easily.  In fact 
they seem a little too loose and I've adjusted the seat mounting to tighten 
them up a bit.

Do the individual tracks slide OK when not attached to the seat?  It could 
be the seat is putting a twist load on the slide causing them to bind.  Or 
it could be they just need lub.

Dave

In a message dated 9/5/2012 9:58:34 PM Central Daylight Time, 
nafzigerg at yahoo.com writes: 
> Just put my new seat tracks in (tr-3) and tightened them down but sliding 
> the
> seat on was a chore.  I also find they don't slide back and forth very 
> well at
> all.  I'm slightly disappointed but think over time things will get 
> better. 
> Just wondering if others have had the same thing happen.  I've bolted the
> tracks on the floor over the carpet.

From tfansher at comcast.net  Thu Sep  6 13:23:54 2012
From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2012 19:23:54 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] seat tracks
In-Reply-To: <1346893960.90962.YahooMailNeo@web120602.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1985904584.1598378.1346959434567.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Gary, I've had some luck using nylon washers from Ace Hardware.B  I used the
size of fender washers to go between the rail and the carpet.B  I also stacked
them with more in the front and fewer in the rear to elevate the seat a
little. I think I used 3 or so in the front, two in the middle and one in the
rear- you could use more or less. I used nylon so they wouldn't rust on the
carpet.B  I had wanted a nylon "incline plane" the width of the rail but
raised in the front and lower in the back, but had no idea of where to obtain
such a beast....By raising the front of the seat some, it's a lot more
comfortable (at least for me). I've done this on both the 3's and the early
TR4....

good luck

Tom

60 TR3A

61 TR3A

62 TR4

73 Stag Mk II



----- Original Message -----


From: "Gary Nafziger" <nafzigerg at yahoo.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, September 5, 2012 9:12:40 PM
Subject: [TR] seat tracks

Just put my new seat tracks in (tr-3) and tightened them down but sliding the
seat on was a chore. B I also find they don't slide back and forth very well
at
all. B I'm slightly disappointed but think over time things will get better.
Just wondering if others have had the same thing happen. B I've bolted the
tracks on the floor over the carpet.

thanks

gary n.

From bkahler1 at gmail.com  Thu Sep  6 14:50:28 2012
From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2012 16:50:28 -0400
Subject: [TR] seat tracks
In-Reply-To: <074f01cd8bf4$1dbeb150$0601a8c0@randall>
References: <1346893960.90962.YahooMailNeo@web120602.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<CAAAEehTeLstDQH7gBfpWkmBhQe2JcQBW0MXgUX2O6cubFzpcsw@mail.gmail.com>
	<074f01cd8bf4$1dbeb150$0601a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <CADm3DLGSy0H_BK3fb84yXGyiCqigUmsqvhbHL4hq4Z6sAMvyhA@mail.gmail.com>

In the Standard Triumph TR4 factory spare parts catalog it is listed as
"Spacer, between seat slide and carpet".  Part # WM0817.

My 63 spitfire also had these spacers.

Brad


On Thu, Sep 6, 2012 at 1:54 AM, Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

> > There should be a spacer between the frame and the carpet.
>
> Do you have a reference or a part number for the spacer?  I've never seen
> one.
>
> -- Randall
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bkahler1 at gmail.com

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Thu Sep  6 16:43:11 2012
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2012 15:43:11 -0700
Subject: [TR] Triumph service bulletins formerly at "little mac  shop"?
In-Reply-To: <eec42b09d33098c41940b2026610a81c.squirrel@www.automate-it.com>
References: <mailman.17.1340992803.27699.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<8CF24758AAFF7BD-FA4-193FD@webmail-d146.sysops.aol.com>
	<eec42b09d33098c41940b2026610a81c.squirrel@www.automate-it.com>
Message-ID: <504926FF.2050108@gmail.com>

I have a number of Service bulletins in my TR web site.  1954 through 
1965 covering TR2 through 4A.

www.tr3a.info/Service_sheets.htm

TeriAnn

From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Thu Sep  6 21:09:01 2012
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2012 22:09:01 -0500
Subject: [TR] Silver-painted TR3A/B oil filler caps -- any details regarding
 shade?
Message-ID: <CAPK7CFCE-1LULLAmsBzOKJpgxQyZWxAhhG90TP2i2QKxHWth7A@mail.gmail.com>

The original oil filler cap on my TR3B was silver.  After twenty years in a
barn as the restoration got parked the remnants of silver (and some red
overspray from who knows what it its past life) are hard to see, let
alone match to something.

My cap pre-restoration
http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Q75msdV/0/XL/i-Q75msdV-XL.jpg

As this gets repainted and put it back in service I'd like to shoot it
silver rather than the more common (and easier to match!) black.  I
happen to have a rattle can here of Eastwood Detail Silver used to
restore an old wire wheel as a spare.  This color was suggested by
Allen Hendrix to match the new MWS wires now on the car and it's a
pretty good match on the wheels, especially after shooting a clearcoat
on it.  There are surely a few other silver filler caps out there from
this period -- on TRs or other Standard Triumph products like Heralds,
IIRC.  If anyone on the list has an original silver oil filler cap,
I'd appreciate any comments about how close the oil filler silver is
to wheel silver or another reference.

The restored wheel up close to see the finish with Eastwood Detail Silver
http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-MrMTKBd/0/XL/i-MrMTKBd-XL.jpg

Restored 48 spoke against new 60 spoke
http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-trK5XHx/0/XL/i-trK5XHx-XL.jpg

Thanks in advance,

Don
1962 TR3B TSF202L

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Sep  6 22:01:32 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 6 Sep 2012 21:01:32 -0700
Subject: [TR] seat tracks
In-Reply-To: <CADm3DLGSy0H_BK3fb84yXGyiCqigUmsqvhbHL4hq4Z6sAMvyhA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1346893960.90962.YahooMailNeo@web120602.mail.ne1.yahoo.com><CAAAEehTeLstDQH7gBfpWkmBhQe2JcQBW0MXgUX2O6cubFzpcsw@mail.gmail.com><074f01cd8bf4$1dbeb150$0601a8c0@randall>
	<CADm3DLGSy0H_BK3fb84yXGyiCqigUmsqvhbHL4hq4Z6sAMvyhA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <089401cd8cad$77bedb80$0601a8c0@randall>

> In the Standard Triumph TR4 factory spare parts catalog it is 
> listed as "Spacer, between seat slide and carpet".  Part # WM0817.

Yes, but there is no such listing in the TR3 factory spare parts catalogue;
and it's seat slides are completely different than the later cars.

-- Randall  

From aljlthomson at charter.net  Fri Sep  7 03:28:42 2012
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson)
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2012 05:28:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] Car Show
Message-ID: <000601cd8cdb$2c0b58c0$84220a40$@charter.net>

Reminder to folks in Southern New England - the Connecticut Triumph Register
will be hosting their 32nd annual Gathering of British Motorcars this
Sunday, September 9th. Details are at our Website. www.CTRiumph.com Thanks.

 

Alex Thomson

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Fri Sep  7 03:51:53 2012
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2012 02:51:53 -0700
Subject: [TR] Silver-painted TR3A/B oil filler caps -- any details
 regarding shade?
In-Reply-To: <CAPK7CFCE-1LULLAmsBzOKJpgxQyZWxAhhG90TP2i2QKxHWth7A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPK7CFCE-1LULLAmsBzOKJpgxQyZWxAhhG90TP2i2QKxHWth7A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <5049C3B9.9050608@gmail.com>

On 9/6/12 8:09 PM, Don Hiscock wrote:
> The original oil filler cap on my TR3B was silver.  After twenty years in a
> barn as the restoration got parked the remnants of silver (and some red
> overspray from who knows what it its past life) are hard to see, let
> alone match to something.
My guess would be silver hammerite.  It was commonly used throughout the 
British car industry where they wanted a tough oil and rust resistant 
finish.

TeriAnn
> My cap pre-restoration
> http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Q75msdV/0/XL/i-Q75msdV-XL.jpg

From alansalvy at gmail.com  Fri Sep  7 05:27:54 2012
From: alansalvy at gmail.com (alan salvatore)
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2012 07:27:54 -0400
Subject: [TR] seat tracks
In-Reply-To: <089401cd8cad$77bedb80$0601a8c0@randall>
References: <1346893960.90962.YahooMailNeo@web120602.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<CAAAEehTeLstDQH7gBfpWkmBhQe2JcQBW0MXgUX2O6cubFzpcsw@mail.gmail.com>
	<074f01cd8bf4$1dbeb150$0601a8c0@randall>
	<CADm3DLGSy0H_BK3fb84yXGyiCqigUmsqvhbHL4hq4Z6sAMvyhA@mail.gmail.com>
	<089401cd8cad$77bedb80$0601a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <CAAAEehQs2U8C71-cY6-1gNodV_h=7uj2C8ifN2Pith7h1kHtow@mail.gmail.com>

Probably just means Triumph hadn't thought of the spacer at that time.

As they were always adding improvements.

And a plastic spacer would have been a better idea than the metal one
since it wouldn't rust.

Al



On Fri, Sep 7, 2012 at 12:01 AM, Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

> > In the Standard Triumph TR4 factory spare parts catalog it is
> > listed as "Spacer, between seat slide and carpet".  Part # WM0817.
>
> Yes, but there is no such listing in the TR3 factory spare parts catalogue;
> and it's seat slides are completely different than the later cars.
>
> -- Randall
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/alansalvy at gmail.com

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Fri Sep  7 07:36:10 2012
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2012 06:36:10 -0700
Subject: [TR] Silver-painted TR3A/B oil filler caps -- any details
 regarding shade?
In-Reply-To: <CAPK7CFCE-1LULLAmsBzOKJpgxQyZWxAhhG90TP2i2QKxHWth7A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPK7CFCE-1LULLAmsBzOKJpgxQyZWxAhhG90TP2i2QKxHWth7A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bGRyK8OFnhp1m+Y46XC1eGJcYPeGUhemWt4PbsYgrNLxg@mail.gmail.com>

Is Hammerite generally available (e.g. Ace, Home Depot)?

Also -- does someone know the approximate change point from 'plain' to
'dimpled' caps?

Geo

On Thu, Sep 6, 2012 at 8:09 PM, Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com> wrote:

> The original oil filler cap on my TR3B was silver...

From darrellw360 at mac.com  Fri Sep  7 08:38:17 2012
From: darrellw360 at mac.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2012 07:38:17 -0700
Subject: [TR] Silver-painted TR3A/B oil filler caps -- any details
 regarding shade?
In-Reply-To: <CANzE1bGRyK8OFnhp1m+Y46XC1eGJcYPeGUhemWt4PbsYgrNLxg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPK7CFCE-1LULLAmsBzOKJpgxQyZWxAhhG90TP2i2QKxHWth7A@mail.gmail.com>
	<CANzE1bGRyK8OFnhp1m+Y46XC1eGJcYPeGUhemWt4PbsYgrNLxg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <26E1C9FE-254A-40FD-9E5E-2A5A085E2ED9@mac.com>

On Sep 7, 2012, at 6:36 AM, Geo Hahn wrote:

> Is Hammerite generally available (e.g. Ace, Home Depot)?

Rustoleum has hammered-finished paints now.

-Darrell

-- 
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Fri Sep  7 10:01:23 2012
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2012 09:01:23 -0700
Subject: [TR] Silver-painted TR3A/B oil filler caps -- any details
 regarding shade?
In-Reply-To: <CAPK7CFCgSsi4i0bjX+4H5Vr_eVkVat9FtWZQuBykAcrAR4_pMA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPK7CFCE-1LULLAmsBzOKJpgxQyZWxAhhG90TP2i2QKxHWth7A@mail.gmail.com>
	<5049C3B9.9050608@gmail.com>
	<CAPK7CFCgSsi4i0bjX+4H5Vr_eVkVat9FtWZQuBykAcrAR4_pMA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <504A1A53.6050502@gmail.com>

On 9/7/12 7:33 AM, Don Hiscock wrote:
> Thanks, TeriAnn --

OK, I just looked the cap up in the TRA concourse judging guide to be sure.

"The early and late caps are similar in appearance. Both are domed with 
mesh breather filters in the bottom. The
early cap has a flat top profile; the late cap profile has 3 thumb 
grips, and a round, domed, profile. Early caps are
black. Late caps are found painted black or hammer-tone (specific color 
unknown) gray.

Decal.

A decal is fitted to the oil filler cap tops. Two basic styles of decals 
are used. The early decal is divided in
a pattern of concentric circles. Later a pie pattern decal was used. The 
following variations are known:
TR2/3 -- Large concentric circle decal, black with white markings.
TR3A -- Large pie-pattern decal, black with white markings.
TR3A -- Little concentric circle decal, black with white markings fits 
caps with thumb-holes.
TR3A/3B -- Little pie-pattern decal fits the caps with thumb-holes.
TR3B -- Little pie-pattern decal, Red with white markings (only observed 
on some TR3Bs with
hammertone caps)."


There is a hammerite gray which is a darker gray.  Hammerite silver is 
more of a gray silver.  Check with the remaining paint bits on your 
cap.  It it looks at all like a silvery gray go with the hammerite 
silver.  If you guess wrong you can always buy another can & respray.

I get my Hammerite paint from my local ACE hardware.  One had it in 
stock on the shelf, the other didn't stock it but made a special order 
for me.

TeriAnn

From guy at genfiniti.com  Fri Sep  7 11:45:14 2012
From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins)
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2012 12:45:14 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Radiator Draincock Thread Size Question
Message-ID: <A52B0FF4-B3FE-42FF-A0B4-2F18DC912146@genfiniti.com>

All,

Would anyone happen to know what the thread size is for the draincock on a
stock TR4A radiator?
I don't want to have to pull it out to measure.  I suspect its 1/4" NPT.



Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph

From wbeech at flash.net  Fri Sep  7 18:37:51 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2012 19:37:51 -0500
Subject: [TR] Rostyle Wheels
Message-ID: <B9D841E65B564597B8580AEDF5A186DB@bboffice>

ISTR a lot of traffic on the list a number of months back about Rostyle
wheels.  I mostly ignored it not looking to replace the new wires on the
TR3.
 
Now, a friend with a 1980 MGB has indicated he is thinking of replacing his
factory Rostyles with some new chrome wires.  So I thought of the list and
herewith are a couple of questions:
 
1. Will 14" MBG wheels fit on some TR models?
2. Is there really someone out there looking to acquire a nice set of
originals, he bought this car new.
 
If there is a deal to be brokered, I am happy to be in the middle as a
non-profit participant.
 
NFI,
Bill

From mark at bradakis.com  Fri Sep  7 18:42:39 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2012 18:42:39 -0600
Subject: [TR] Rostyle Wheels
In-Reply-To: <B9D841E65B564597B8580AEDF5A186DB@bboffice>
References: <B9D841E65B564597B8580AEDF5A186DB@bboffice>
Message-ID: <504A947F.7080609@bradakis.com>

 > 1. Will 14" MBG [sic]  wheels fit on some TR models?

There are brake clearance issues.

mjb.

From greg at gelhar.com  Fri Sep  7 19:10:34 2012
From: greg at gelhar.com (Greg  Gelhar)
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2012 20:10:34 -0500
Subject: [TR] Heritage Certificate
References: <B9D841E65B564597B8580AEDF5A186DB@bboffice>
	<504A947F.7080609@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <20B006A574CE41679FA427CB2626BAA2@triumph>

Can I get a Heritage Certificate for a TR3B if I only have an engine number? 
I am wanting to know the commission number. The car was titled by the engine 
number. How many states did that?

Greg G.
Osseo, MN

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Fri Sep  7 19:26:32 2012
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2012 18:26:32 -0700
Subject: [TR] Heritage Certificate
In-Reply-To: <20B006A574CE41679FA427CB2626BAA2@triumph>
References: <B9D841E65B564597B8580AEDF5A186DB@bboffice>
	<504A947F.7080609@bradakis.com>
	<20B006A574CE41679FA427CB2626BAA2@triumph>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bE1pE4EYgKa6BmW+2Vyt_i7gOaqKM10nPeU4NdDVXN0pw@mail.gmail.com>

As I recall, yes -- but it costs a bit extra.

Geo

On Fri, Sep 7, 2012 at 6:10 PM, Greg Gelhar <greg at gelhar.com> wrote:

> Can I get a Heritage Certificate for a TR3B if I only have an engine
> number? I am wanting to know the commission number. The car was titled by
> the engine number. How many states did that?
>
> Greg G.
> Osseo, MN
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com>

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Fri Sep  7 19:27:07 2012
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2012 20:27:07 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] Heritage Certificate
Message-ID: <5758569.2003737.1347067627772.JavaMail.root@vms170027>

I would contact them and provide all the information you have, and let them tell you if they can validate it before you pay for the certificate.


Craig
1972 Triumph TR6


On 09/07/12, Greg Gelhar<greg at gelhar.com> wrote:

Can I get a Heritage Certificate for a TR3B if I only have an engine number? 
I am wanting to know the commission number. The car was titled by the engine 
number. How many states did that?

Greg G.
Osseo, MN

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net

From McGaheyRx at aol.com  Fri Sep  7 20:20:22 2012
From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2012 22:20:22 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Triumph repair operation time guide - aka flat rate manual
Message-ID: <2a1ed.4e50c485.3d7c0566@aol.com>

This question is, I think, in the same vein with those about the service  
bulletins.
 
I recently snagged a  "1977 TR7  Repair Operation Times"  booklet - an 
original British Leyland publication intended to serve as a flat  rate time 
guide for dealer service departments - interesting - IMHO  anyway
 
Does anybody have these for other models? TR6? GT6? TR8?
are they posted online anywhere?
 
Cheers,
Jack Mc  

From mdporter at dfn.com  Fri Sep  7 20:52:04 2012
From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter)
Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2012 20:52:04 -0600
Subject: [TR] Triumph repair operation time guide - aka flat rate manual
In-Reply-To: <2a1ed.4e50c485.3d7c0566@aol.com>
References: <2a1ed.4e50c485.3d7c0566@aol.com>
Message-ID: <504AB2D4.1060308@dfn.com>

On 9/7/2012 8:20 PM, McGaheyRx at aol.com wrote:
> This question is, I think, in the same vein with those about the service
> bulletins.
>   
> I recently snagged a  "1977 TR7  Repair Operation Times"  booklet - an
> original British Leyland publication intended to serve as a flat  rate time
> guide for dealer service departments - interesting - IMHO  anyway
>   
>

Quite apart from collector value, the dealer flat-rate guides are always 
interesting to read, in part because of the outrageousness of them, but 
also to glean where the big problems were--most times were on the short 
side, but the big design bugaboos were always kept really short, because 
they knew warranty reserves were going to be depleted by them, anyway.

Still, if one was working in a dealership, there was not much hilarity 
in them.  I recall well a new Corolla that the owner had asked for an 
extra key, we cut him one, and it fit, but not perfectly--either the key 
code on the car was wrong, or there was an imperceptible burr on it, but 
the key wedged in the "start" position, and the fellow took off and 
drove about fifty miles.  This of course turned the starter into an 
unregulated generator, and it fried the starting harness (0.3 hours to 
replace by the book) which took about fifteen minutes, and a part of the 
instrument harness, which had to be replaced as a unit.  Book time for 
that was 3.0 hours.  The entire dash and its support structure had to be 
disassembled to remove the old harness and route the new one (about 
thirty major pieces).  I think it actually took me ten hours, and about 
halfway through it, the shop manager was about ready to have me 
committed because I started yelling at the top of my lungs, every time I 
hit a snag, "I wanna meet the little Japanese guy that can do this in 
three hours!"

Still and all, better than the poor GM guys across the street at the 
time, who were having so much trouble with poor design with regard to 
disassembly/assembly issues that they were averaging about 12 flat-rate 
hours a week, even though their yard was full of cars waiting for repairs.


Cheers.

-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Sep  7 21:58:57 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2012 20:58:57 -0700
Subject: [TR] Triumph repair operation time guide - aka flat rate manual
In-Reply-To: <2a1ed.4e50c485.3d7c0566@aol.com>
References: <2a1ed.4e50c485.3d7c0566@aol.com>
Message-ID: <09a201cd8d76$46357be0$0601a8c0@randall>

> Does anybody have these for other models? TR6? GT6? TR8?
> are they posted online anywhere?

I have them for Stag
http://tinyurl.com/98tq3sz

and TR3
http://tinyurl.com/9t5jm32

-- Randall  

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Sep  7 22:01:45 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2012 21:01:45 -0700
Subject: [TR] Heritage Certificate
In-Reply-To: <20B006A574CE41679FA427CB2626BAA2@triumph>
References: <B9D841E65B564597B8580AEDF5A186DB@bboffice><504A947F.7080609@bradakis.com>
	<20B006A574CE41679FA427CB2626BAA2@triumph>
Message-ID: <09a301cd8d76$a9d79e30$0601a8c0@randall>

> The car was 
> titled by the engine 
> number. How many states did that?

I believe it was somewhat hit and miss.  Anyway, my 56 TR3 was originally
registered in CA by the engine number.  I had it changed to the commission
number when I got it transferred to my name.

-- Randall  

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Sep  7 22:03:58 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2012 21:03:58 -0700
Subject: [TR] Rostyle Wheels
In-Reply-To: <B9D841E65B564597B8580AEDF5A186DB@bboffice>
References: <B9D841E65B564597B8580AEDF5A186DB@bboffice>
Message-ID: <09a401cd8d76$f9332b70$0601a8c0@randall>

> 1. Will 14" MBG wheels fit on some TR models?

I believe they will fit on Stags and maybe some of the 2000/2.5 models that
came originally with 14" wheels.

But I'm not interested.

-- Randall  

From levilevi at comcast.net  Fri Sep  7 22:05:12 2012
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2012 22:05:12 -0600
Subject: [TR] Rotating tyres
In-Reply-To: <003b01cd8ad8$617af6f0$2470e4d0$@net>
References: <003b01cd8ad8$617af6f0$2470e4d0$@net>
Message-ID: <E573E30D-2867-42F4-B59B-3AEEF09735F1@comcast.net>

Dennis,

If you run your hand back and forth on the surface of the tire you  
should be able to feel which direction the rubber is wearing. It will  
feel different as you go back and forth over the tread width. One way  
will have an "edge" on the tread pattern and one way should be smooth.  
Having that information you may be able to figure out how the tires  
are tracking down the road (or not tracking) and why they are wearing  
the way they are. Much like cupped tires indicate bad shocks, wear  
towards the inside/outside can indicate wheel alignment issues and  
also what direction the tires are really pointing in as you roll down  
the road.

Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net





On Sep 4, 2012, at 2:03 PM, Dennis Culligan wrote:

>  While we're talking about tires. I recently noticed some wear on the
> outside edge of the
>
> right front tire on my '76 TR6 so I decided to rotate as I usually  
> do, front
> to rear to front.
>
> However, upon further inspection, I could not help but notice that  
> both
> right side tires, front
>
> AND rear, were decidedly more worn across the whole tire (not just  
> the edge)
> than the left
>
> side tires. How exactly does this happen?  The right sides are  
> nearly shot
> while the lefts look
>
> fine.  Tires are Vredestein Sprint Classics and have about 25,000  
> miles on
> them. Any ideas?
>
> Dennis Culligan, Highland NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Fri Sep  7 22:20:40 2012
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2012 23:20:40 -0500
Subject: [TR] Heritage Certificate
In-Reply-To: <09a301cd8d76$a9d79e30$0601a8c0@randall>
References: <B9D841E65B564597B8580AEDF5A186DB@bboffice><504A947F.7080609@bradakis.com><20B006A574CE41679FA427CB2626BAA2@triumph>
	<09a301cd8d76$a9d79e30$0601a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <0777D9FD7ABB46CBBC4F9914E27CE595@GregPC>

The car was titled by the engine number. How many states did that?

I believe all states titled cars by VIN number or car number, but in the 
actual titling process (I assume) they grabbed the first number they could 
find off the car or made a best guess as to which was the car or VIN number. 
My old Austin Healey 100 was titled in the body number, which was much 
easier to find on the back of the firewall than the VIN plate riveted to the 
frame below the engine.

Greg Lemon
68 Triumph TR250

From gpr at key-men.com  Sat Sep  8 04:49:46 2012
From: gpr at key-men.com (George Richardson)
Date: Sat, 08 Sep 2012 06:49:46 -0400
Subject: [TR] Heritage Certificate
In-Reply-To: <0777D9FD7ABB46CBBC4F9914E27CE595@GregPC>
References: <B9D841E65B564597B8580AEDF5A186DB@bboffice>
	<504A947F.7080609@bradakis.com>
	<20B006A574CE41679FA427CB2626BAA2@triumph>
	<09a301cd8d76$a9d79e30$0601a8c0@randall>
	<0777D9FD7ABB46CBBC4F9914E27CE595@GregPC>
Message-ID: <504B22CA.2040601@key-men.com>

My 57 TR3 is titled by the engine number. Good thing it's still 
original. :-)

George Richardson
Key Men - Keys for Classics
www.key-men.com

On 9/8/2012 12:20 AM, Greg Lemon wrote:
> The car was titled by the engine number. How many states did that?
>
> I believe all states titled cars by VIN number or car number, but in 
> the actual titling process (I assume) they grabbed the first number 
> they could find off the car or made a best guess as to which was the 
> car or VIN number. My old Austin Healey 100 was titled in the body 
> number, which was much easier to find on the back of the firewall than 
> the VIN plate riveted to the frame below the engine.
>
> Greg Lemon
> 68 Triumph TR250
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/gpr at key-men.com

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Sat Sep  8 05:18:13 2012
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Sat, 08 Sep 2012 04:18:13 -0700
Subject: [TR] Heritage Certificate
In-Reply-To: <504B22CA.2040601@key-men.com>
References: <B9D841E65B564597B8580AEDF5A186DB@bboffice>
	<504A947F.7080609@bradakis.com>
	<20B006A574CE41679FA427CB2626BAA2@triumph>
	<09a301cd8d76$a9d79e30$0601a8c0@randall>
	<0777D9FD7ABB46CBBC4F9914E27CE595@GregPC>
	<504B22CA.2040601@key-men.com>
Message-ID: <504B2975.90602@gmail.com>

On 9/8/12 3:49 AM, George Richardson wrote:
> My 57 TR3 is titled by the engine number. Good thing it's still 
> original. :-)
>
Once upon a time, there was a person who owned a Triumph wrecking yard 
who decided to have his employees build up a nice TR3 from parts in the 
yard.  This was a project to fill in otherwise employee idle time.  The 
car got built up, sent off to a body shop, painted black and when it 
came back they put a new interior kit in it (Red if I remember this 
fable correctly).  The owner built the car out of assorted TR3 parts to 
sell and wanted to present it as an original car that was freshly 
restored. He decided that the engine & car should have matching numbers 
to show originality.  So he bought a new commission plate and stamped it 
with the engine number.  Until now it was the only car I know of that 
had a commission number that ended in an 'E'.   ( TSXXXXXE)  When the 
car was finished, it was entered into the Palo Alto British Car show and 
won a people's choice award then was sold for a princely sum.  Hopefully 
the newly born TR3 lived happily ever since.

From wbeech at flash.net  Sat Sep  8 07:33:40 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2012 08:33:40 -0500
Subject: [TR] Heritage Certificate
In-Reply-To: <504B2975.90602@gmail.com>
References: <B9D841E65B564597B8580AEDF5A186DB@bboffice><504A947F.7080609@bradakis.com><20B006A574CE41679FA427CB2626BAA2@triumph><09a301cd8d76$a9d79e30$0601a8c0@randall><0777D9FD7ABB46CBBC4F9914E27CE595@GregPC><504B22CA.2040601@key-men.com>
	<504B2975.90602@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <00ECB598B6064A12A14E3332B10C56C6@bboffice>

Don't know about the "E" but ISTR a TR3 on eBay some years back that boasted
'matching numbers'.  I just figured some guy put a new VIN plate on and
matched up to the engine to show originality and try increase the value of
his car. 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TeriAnn J. Wakeman
Sent: Saturday, September 08, 2012 6:18 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Heritage Certificate

On 9/8/12 3:49 AM, George Richardson wrote:
> My 57 TR3 is titled by the engine number. Good thing it's still 
> original. :-)
>
Once upon a time, there was a person who owned a Triumph wrecking yard who
decided to have his employees build up a nice TR3 from parts in the yard.
This was a project to fill in otherwise employee idle time.  The car got
built up, sent off to a body shop, painted black and when it came back they
put a new interior kit in it (Red if I remember this fable correctly).  The
owner built the car out of assorted TR3 parts to sell and wanted to present
it as an original car that was freshly restored. He decided that the engine
& car should have matching numbers to show originality.  So he bought a new
commission plate and stamped it with the engine number.  Until now it was
the only car I know of that 
had a commission number that ended in an 'E'.   ( TSXXXXXE)  When the 
car was finished, it was entered into the Palo Alto British Car show and won
a people's choice award then was sold for a princely sum.  Hopefully the
newly born TR3 lived happily ever since.

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From JGILLIS at tcd.ie  Sat Sep  8 09:32:16 2012
From: JGILLIS at tcd.ie (John Gillis)
Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2012 16:32:16 +0100
Subject: [TR] Triumph Repair Time Guide
Message-ID: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB03450BD8C2FE@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>

 have one for the TR2


John Gillis
Senior Conservator

From cliff_hansen at earthlink.net  Sat Sep  8 10:05:39 2012
From: cliff_hansen at earthlink.net (Cliff Hansen)
Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2012 10:05:39 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR4A - wiring harness grommet
Message-ID: <5C790DBDD9034DD5ADC8D2A20E22430C@Shemp>

Guess Ibm not getting that wiring harness in today.

This is a dumb issue, but, wondering if anyone else dealt with it.  TRF sells
part #RG3 for the large grommet on the RHS of the firewall through which the
wiring harness passes.  This grommet is for a 1 7/8b hole and is the same
part number for TR6.  The hole in my car is 1 3/8b.  TRF doesnbt list any
other part.  Moss only lists a 1 1/2b grommet for the TR4A and nothing for
the TR6.

Does anyone know either 1) the correct TRF part #; or 2) if the Moss part fits
a 4A?

Thanks much,

Cliff

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sat Sep  8 12:06:25 2012
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2012 11:06:25 -0700
Subject: [TR] Triumph repair operation time guide - aka flat rate manual
In-Reply-To: <09a201cd8d76$46357be0$0601a8c0@randall>
References: <2a1ed.4e50c485.3d7c0566@aol.com>
	<09a201cd8d76$46357be0$0601a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bFygV2xXBSRHeKR69xXXg8V374MvM+vxaknkvLgg1kgdg@mail.gmail.com>

Just click on the Stag link for the TR3 and on the TR3 link for the Stag.

Geo

On Fri, Sep 7, 2012 at 8:58 PM, Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

> > Does anybody have these for other models? TR6? GT6? TR8?
> > are they posted online anywhere?
>
> I have them for Stag
> http://tinyurl.com/98tq3sz
>
> and TR3
> http://tinyurl.com/9t5jm32
>
> -- Randall

From dixie4.wales at virgin.net  Sat Sep  8 12:20:51 2012
From: dixie4.wales at virgin.net (ADRIAN DIX-DYER)
Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2012 19:20:51 +0100
Subject: [TR] TR4A - wiring harness grommet
In-Reply-To: <5C790DBDD9034DD5ADC8D2A20E22430C@Shemp>
References: <5C790DBDD9034DD5ADC8D2A20E22430C@Shemp>
Message-ID: <CAJbHsd8QiwLRWbJaKi_2YttcQrYk4PpSseY2CeaVHRO-Yxj=2Q@mail.gmail.com>

Two quick solutions I can think of:
1, Make the hole in the bulkhead larger or
2, Make the grommet smaller by cutting and re glue with Superglue.
It is very dependent on the circumference of the wiring loom that you have
to hand.

Adrian TR4A CT64306 O
Wales UK.

On 8 September 2012 17:05, Cliff Hansen <cliff_hansen at earthlink.net> wrote:

> Guess Ib m not getting that wiring harness in today.
>
> This is a dumb issue, but, wondering if anyone else dealt with it.  TRF
> sells
> part #RG3 for the large grommet on the RHS of the firewall through which
> the
> wiring harness passes.  This grommet is for a 1 7/8b  hole and is the same
> part number for TR6.  The hole in my car is 1 3/8b .  TRF doesnb t list any
> other part.  Moss only lists a 1 1/2b  grommet for the TR4A and nothing for
> the TR6.
>
> Does anyone know either 1) the correct TRF part #; or 2) if the Moss part
> fits
> a 4A?
>
> Thanks much,
>
> Cliff
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dixie4.wales at virgin.net

From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Sat Sep  8 13:24:04 2012
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2012 14:24:04 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A - wiring harness grommet
In-Reply-To: <5C790DBDD9034DD5ADC8D2A20E22430C@Shemp>
References: <5C790DBDD9034DD5ADC8D2A20E22430C@Shemp>
Message-ID: <CAPK7CFBkhae20rjGoCg3zdKASA7GpdX69nY-LnMD3FkE2+A2hw@mail.gmail.com>

Dunno the answer to either of your specific questions, but there are
lotsa sources for grommets of all sizes if you decide you need
something not available from your normal suppliers.

This one, for example:
http://www.britishwiring.com/Grommets-s/32.htm?searching=Y&sort=5&cat=32&show=100&page=1

Don
Saint Louis
1962 TR3B TSF202L

On 9/8/12, Cliff Hansen <cliff_hansen at earthlink.net> wrote:
> Guess Ib m not getting that wiring harness in today.
>
> This is a dumb issue, but, wondering if anyone else dealt with it.  TRF
> sells
> part #RG3 for the large grommet on the RHS of the firewall through which
> the
> wiring harness passes.  This grommet is for a 1 7/8b  hole and is the same
> part number for TR6.  The hole in my car is 1 3/8b .  TRF doesnb t list any
> other part.  Moss only lists a 1 1/2b  grommet for the TR4A and nothing for
> the TR6.
>
> Does anyone know either 1) the correct TRF part #; or 2) if the Moss part
> fits
> a 4A?
>
> Thanks much,
>
> Cliff
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com

From peterara at msn.com  Sat Sep  8 13:42:01 2012
From: peterara at msn.com (Peter Arakelian)
Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2012 12:42:01 -0700
Subject: [TR] tr6 engine mounts
Message-ID: <COL122-DS102D6327D2B37C4E34A7C3C1AE0@phx.gbl>

OK, I need to replace mine.  Engine is supported by a floor jack and 2x4.
Any tips?  Looks like getting out is easy enough, what about aligning when
putting back in?
Please answer off-list, too.  I'm  working on it...

Thanks..
Peter 71 TR6

From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca  Sat Sep  8 15:01:24 2012
From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (Art McEwen)
Date: Sat, 08 Sep 2012 17:01:24 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A rear spring "fulcrum" bolt
Message-ID: <504BB224.1050300@cogeco.ca>

Is there really nothing but rust holding that odd triangular shaped head 
of that bolt against the frame?  That front bolt is all that's holding 
the spring to the car now and I'm about to start applying lethal force, 
just wanted to check first....

Thanks,

Art
TS64989LO

From wbeech at flash.net  Sat Sep  8 15:33:02 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2012 16:33:02 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3A rear spring "fulcrum" bolt
In-Reply-To: <504BB224.1050300@cogeco.ca>
References: <504BB224.1050300@cogeco.ca>
Message-ID: <CDD29BD2ADE94971ACA64992BB2073CD@bboffice>

Yup, that's pretty much it.  Have not heard of any failures or availability
of upgraded hardnesses for that piece.  Moss & TRF think it is worth about
$20, so it must be good!

If everything is clean and tight, it is mostly 'shear' stress that it must
endure.

Bill

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Art McEwen
Sent: Saturday, September 08, 2012 4:01 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3A rear spring "fulcrum" bolt

Is there really nothing but rust holding that odd triangular shaped head of
that bolt against the frame?  That front bolt is all that's holding the
spring to the car now and I'm about to start applying lethal force, just
wanted to check first....

Thanks,

Art
TS64989LO

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From bill_beecher at flash.net  Sat Sep  8 16:33:05 2012
From: bill_beecher at flash.net (bill_beecher at flash.net)
Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2012 17:33:05 -0500
Subject: [TR] CA & PA reps at VTR?
Message-ID: <F4FC7F61A4824C619446F990099F9FA0@bboffice>

Copied this from the BCF today, surely there will be more than one
representative from the golden & keystone states?  

BTW, if anyone is travelling down Texas Hwy 36 to VTR, I would like to join
you in Abilene.

Bill
	 
  
"I was at breakfast the other morning with some TTR members and found only
one person from California has registered for the VTR convention in
Galveston this fall. And no body from Pennsylvania. I know I will be there,
as will Randy but I wonder who else? Anyone waiting until the last minute to
register?

It's going to be a wonderful event and I hope to see some of you-all there.
http://www.kingswayrc.com/txtr/VTR2012/index.html
<http://www.kingswayrc.com/txtr/VTR2012/index.html

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sat Sep  8 16:42:59 2012
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2012 18:42:59 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3A rear spring "fulcrum" bolt
Message-ID: <16f27.44d35b93.3d7d23f2@cs.com>

At one point in time there was a small metal tab weled to the frame to 
prevent the bolt from turning.  It is/was up against the flat part of the bolt 
head.  My car still had one of them.

Dave

In a message dated 9/8/2012 4:02:18 PM Central Daylight Time, 
amcewen2 at cogeco.ca writes: 
> Is there really nothing but rust holding that odd triangular shaped head 
> of that bolt against the frame?  That front bolt is all that's holding 
> the spring to the car now and I'm about to start applying lethal force, 
> just wanted to check first....

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Sat Sep  8 16:49:51 2012
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2012 18:49:51 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A rear spring "fulcrum" bolt
In-Reply-To: <504BB224.1050300@cogeco.ca>
References: <504BB224.1050300@cogeco.ca>
Message-ID: <003001cd8e14$4356bb20$ca043160$@uprichard.net>

Nothing but rust perhaps, but that's the most dreaded bolt on the
TR3..........

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Art McEwen
Sent: Saturday, September 08, 2012 5:01 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3A rear spring "fulcrum" bolt

Is there really nothing but rust holding that odd triangular shaped head of
that bolt against the frame?  That front bolt is all that's holding the
spring to the car now and I'm about to start applying lethal force, just
wanted to check first....

Thanks,

Art
TS64989LO

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Sat Sep  8 16:56:04 2012
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Sat, 08 Sep 2012 18:56:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] Heritage Certificate
In-Reply-To: <mailman.17.1347127204.2743.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.17.1347127204.2743.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAJL2xS8Qce5OmzH6VzgCDbfCgAAAEAAAAGlK5wKauatJkoKJaMlV1AIBAAAAAA==@optonline.net>

When someone states "matching numbers" it means the chassis, engine and body
numbers are the same ones the car had when it left the factory.
These numbers would be found on the Heritage Certificate. 


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2012 08:33:40 -0500
From: "Wbeech" <wbeech at flash.net>
To: "'TeriAnn J. Wakeman'" <tjwakeman at gmail.com>,
	<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Heritage Certificate
Message-ID: <00ECB598B6064A12A14E3332B10C56C6 at bboffice>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Don't know about the "E" but ISTR a TR3 on eBay some years back that boasted
'matching numbers'.  I just figured some guy put a new VIN plate on and
matched up to the engine to show originality and try increase the value of
his car. 

From dave at ranteer.com  Sat Sep  8 18:15:12 2012
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2012 19:15:12 -0500
Subject: [TR] Heritage Certificate
In-Reply-To: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAJL2xS8Qce5OmzH6VzgCDbfCgAAAEAAAAGlK5wKauatJkoKJaMlV1AIBAAAAAA==@optonline.net>
References: <mailman.17.1347127204.2743.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAJL2xS8Qce5OmzH6VzgCDbfCgAAAEAAAAGlK5wKauatJkoKJaMlV1AIBAAAAAA==@optonline.net>
Message-ID: <0461E83299C14FFB9FE51AD9BD3FB199@Spitfire>

on American cars, the numbers actually match (are the same).  I believe 
that's what TeriAnn was suggesting someone had done to a british car

-----Original Message----- 
From: Bob
Sent: Saturday, September 08, 2012 5:56 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Heritage Certificate

When someone states "matching numbers" it means the chassis, engine and body
numbers are the same ones the car had when it left the factory.
These numbers would be found on the Heritage Certificate.

From dave at ranteer.com  Sat Sep  8 18:17:26 2012
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2012 19:17:26 -0500
Subject: [TR] CA & PA reps at VTR?
In-Reply-To: <F4FC7F61A4824C619446F990099F9FA0@bboffice>
References: <F4FC7F61A4824C619446F990099F9FA0@bboffice>
Message-ID: <4C03C48F820148D0995938A8CE0FFDEC@Spitfire>

Dallas is about 5 hours from Galveston.  it may or may not be a convenient 
way station, but if anyone needs a bed and a garage (or a meal), you can 
stop here.

contact me off list

dave northrup
dallas, tx

-----Original Message----- 
From: bill_beecher at flash.net
Sent: Saturday, September 08, 2012 5:33 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] CA & PA reps at VTR?

Copied this from the BCF today, surely there will be more than one
representative from the golden & keystone states?

BTW, if anyone is travelling down Texas Hwy 36 to VTR, I would like to join
you in Abilene.

Bill

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Sep  8 18:26:01 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2012 17:26:01 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A rear spring "fulcrum" bolt
In-Reply-To: <504BB224.1050300@cogeco.ca>
References: <504BB224.1050300@cogeco.ca>
Message-ID: <0a6201cd8e21$b177b610$0601a8c0@randall>

Worth noting, perhaps, that the head of the pin is tapped for a puller.  I
used a bottoming tap to clean out the tapped hole, then some hardened
threaded rod, nuts & 'setup' washers from MMC plus sockets and a bit of pipe
to form a makeshift puller.

Worked for me, on two different cars now.  I also soaked the area in PB
Blaster for several weeks, and beat on things from time to time to help the
PBB penetrate.

-- Randall  

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Sep  8 18:28:14 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2012 17:28:14 -0700
Subject: [TR] Triumph repair operation time guide - aka flat rate manual
In-Reply-To: <CANzE1bFygV2xXBSRHeKR69xXXg8V374MvM+vxaknkvLgg1kgdg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <2a1ed.4e50c485.3d7c0566@aol.com><09a201cd8d76$46357be0$0601a8c0@randall>
	<CANzE1bFygV2xXBSRHeKR69xXXg8V374MvM+vxaknkvLgg1kgdg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <0a6301cd8e22$004de6b0$0601a8c0@randall>

> Just click on the Stag link for the TR3 and on the TR3 link 
> for the Stag.

D'oh !!

Ok, I'll try again:

Stag: http://tinyurl.com/9t5jm32

TR3: http://tinyurl.com/98tq3sz

-- Randall  

From dave at ranteer.com  Sat Sep  8 18:46:31 2012
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2012 19:46:31 -0500
Subject: [TR] somewhat off topic - bicycles and garages and triumphs
In-Reply-To: <09a201cd8d76$46357be0$0601a8c0@randall>
References: <2a1ed.4e50c485.3d7c0566@aol.com>
	<09a201cd8d76$46357be0$0601a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <E7B2F655652848B6A48C67913E0ADF83@Spitfire>

I know that some of you have unlimited garage space (I'm jealous) and some 
do not.

I fall into the latter category.

I'm thinking about mounting the bicycles on either the wall or the ceiling

any recommendations or warnings?

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Sep  8 19:45:44 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2012 18:45:44 -0700
Subject: [TR] somewhat off topic - bicycles and garages and triumphs
In-Reply-To: <E7B2F655652848B6A48C67913E0ADF83@Spitfire>
References: <2a1ed.4e50c485.3d7c0566@aol.com><09a201cd8d76$46357be0$0601a8c0@randall>
	<E7B2F655652848B6A48C67913E0ADF83@Spitfire>
Message-ID: <0a6a01cd8e2c$d451faa0$0601a8c0@randall>

> I'm thinking about mounting the bicycles on either the wall 
> or the ceiling

Mine are stored with those vinyl-coated hooks from Home Depot, screwed into
the overhead joists over in a corner.

Only problem is the Stag on jackstands in front of them, which kind of
blocks the access.

-- Randall  

From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Sat Sep  8 20:58:08 2012
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2012 21:58:08 -0500
Subject: [TR] somewhat off topic - bicycles and garages and triumphs
In-Reply-To: <E7B2F655652848B6A48C67913E0ADF83@Spitfire>
References: <2a1ed.4e50c485.3d7c0566@aol.com>
	<09a201cd8d76$46357be0$0601a8c0@randall>
	<E7B2F655652848B6A48C67913E0ADF83@Spitfire>
Message-ID: <CAPK7CFDBKccbSNJAG4rmNtoE5WOt6h9bdABD7NQt1sYP9B_4Hg@mail.gmail.com>

I've been very happy with the type of rack that mounts to a vertical
wall, holds either front or rear tire, and lets the bike hang like
it's "riding" the wall. I have three in my basement side-by-side with
the bikes alternating up-down-up.  This lets them hang closer together
than any other way I've found.

I got mine at REI.  They're available from lots of vendors.  Highly recommended.

Don
1962 TR3B TSF202L

On 9/8/12, Dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:
> I know that some of you have unlimited garage space (I'm jealous) and some
> do not.
>
> I fall into the latter category.
>
> I'm thinking about mounting the bicycles on either the wall or the ceiling
>
> any recommendations or warnings?
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sun Sep  9 09:40:45 2012
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2012 08:40:45 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A rear spring "fulcrum" bolt
In-Reply-To: <0a6201cd8e21$b177b610$0601a8c0@randall>
References: <504BB224.1050300@cogeco.ca>
	<0a6201cd8e21$b177b610$0601a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bGB3YLBLOJJo-R=m7QKp6JZbcsc3T=gCS7hE1h5ifLkoA@mail.gmail.com>

On Sat, Sep 8, 2012 at 5:26 PM, Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

> Worth noting, perhaps, that the head of the pin is tapped for a puller...
>


I'm (sometimes) a 'plan-ahead' guy -- I  cleaned that head out with a tap
and have been soaking the area with PBlaster every time I'm under there for
the past year or so.  Will continue until such time as I need to remove it.

The 'long-game' approach worked on the cap tube/tstat housing which came
undone easily after years of soaking.

I wonder what else I should be doing this to.

Geo

From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca  Sun Sep  9 09:57:08 2012
From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (Art McEwen)
Date: Sun, 09 Sep 2012 11:57:08 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A rear spring "fulcrum" bolt
In-Reply-To: <0a6201cd8e21$b177b610$0601a8c0@randall>
References: <504BB224.1050300@cogeco.ca>
	<0a6201cd8e21$b177b610$0601a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <504CBC54.4050802@cogeco.ca>

Thanks all,  I'm chasing a banging noise in the rear and I thought maybe 
the front silent block was perished and allowing the spring to move 
around on the bolt but it's not that bad so I'm just bolting everything 
back up.  I think what I'll do over the winter is construct a vice to 
apply inward pressure to the bolt and maybe tighten it every couple of 
weeks to see if that removes it.    I think the noise is the result of 
the shocks sliding on their mounting bracket holes which have become 
more slots then holes.

On 9/8/2012 8:26 PM, Randall wrote:
> Worth noting, perhaps, that the head of the pin is tapped for a puller.  I
> used a bottoming tap to clean out the tapped hole, then some hardened
> threaded rod, nuts & 'setup' washers from MMC plus sockets and a bit of pipe
> to form a makeshift puller.
>
> Worked for me, on two different cars now.  I also soaked the area in PB
> Blaster for several weeks, and beat on things from time to time to help the
> PBB penetrate.
>
> -- Randall

From JGILLIS at tcd.ie  Sun Sep  9 15:06:09 2012
From: JGILLIS at tcd.ie (John Gillis)
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2012 22:06:09 +0100
Subject: [TR] H4 carb back!
Message-ID: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB03450BD8C300@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>

After fixing my leaking jet, on the oracle advice! I put my colo(u)r tune on
this weekend, I discovered back carb running rich, no problem, wind up the
adjusting nut, problem- with the nut fully wound up, the mixture is just about
right, but the jet is still not near flush with the top. I know it should be
possible to adjust right up to a flush position, of course this would be a
very weak mixture. But is there a reason why the jet will not reach the top
position. This is the carb I replaced the cork seals on and I am wondering if
I could have put something in the wrong place.
Regards
John
1954 TR2

From wbeech at flash.net  Sun Sep  9 15:44:05 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2012 16:44:05 -0500
Subject: [TR] H4 carb back!
In-Reply-To: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB03450BD8C300@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>
References: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB03450BD8C300@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>
Message-ID: <4C850E01C211408E96D2D89F77C921CE@bboffice>

Have you re-centered your jets?  You should be able to hear a definitive
'clunk' after you raise and release the slide.

Is the jet pushed up all the way into the jet barrel?  Sometimes when you
wind up the adjusting nut, the jet does not follow.

Could there be a disparity in the thickness of your large cork washer, the
one behind the 13/16" hex.  If you substituted a thicker neoprene/viton
o-ring this could hold the jet back.

Just some thoughts, I'm sure after a short respite you will take another
look at it and it will be apparent, not too many things that could cause
this.

Of course, If it is producing the proper mixture and not leaking, leave it
alone and enjoy the drive.

Bill


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Gillis
Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2012 4:06 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] H4 carb back!

After fixing my leaking jet, on the oracle advice! I put my colo(u)r tune on
this weekend, I discovered back carb running rich, no problem, wind up the
adjusting nut, problem- with the nut fully wound up, the mixture is just
about right, but the jet is still not near flush with the top. I know it
should be possible to adjust right up to a flush position, of course this
would be a very weak mixture. But is there a reason why the jet will not
reach the top position. This is the carb I replaced the cork seals on and I
am wondering if I could have put something in the wrong place.
Regards
John
1954 TR2

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From elliottr at rmi.net  Sun Sep  9 18:53:59 2012
From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott)
Date: Sun, 09 Sep 2012 19:53:59 -0500
Subject: [TR] H4 carb back!
In-Reply-To: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB03450BD8C300@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>
References: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB03450BD8C300@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>
Message-ID: <504D3A27.9090500@rmi.net>

I have heard that some of the kits for HS4 carbs come with washers that 
are too thick.  So there is no way to make the jets come up flush.   
Maybe the same thing is true with H4

Roger Elliott

On 09/09/2012 04:06 PM, John Gillis wrote:
> After fixing my leaking jet, on the oracle advice! I put my colo(u)r tune on
> this weekend, I discovered back carb running rich, no problem, wind up the
> adjusting nut, problem- with the nut fully wound up, the mixture is just about
> right, but the jet is still not near flush with the top. I know it should be
> possible to adjust right up to a flush position, of course this would be a
> very weak mixture. But is there a reason why the jet will not reach the top
> position. This is the carb I replaced the cork seals on and I am wondering if
> I could have put something in the wrong place.
> Regards
> John
> 1954 TR2

From guy at genfiniti.com  Sun Sep  9 20:25:11 2012
From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins)
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2012 21:25:11 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A - OD not engaging.  Not enough fluid?
Message-ID: <C5A27A58-5E9E-4D59-B720-3A83DE30D628@genfiniti.com>

All,

I just changed the fluids for the first time on the TR4A.
Took my first drive this evening.  When I went to engage the A-Type OD, it did
not.
The solenoid is working like a champ..

Is it possible that I did not put enough fluid in the gearbox, even though it
was starting to run out the filling hole?
Having never replaced the fluid in the gearbox before, I'm not sure what else
to think.

Does it just take some time after a fluid replacement for the OD to build up
enough pressure on the initial use?

Thanks in advance.



Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sun Sep  9 20:38:46 2012
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2012 19:38:46 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4A - OD not engaging. Not enough fluid?
In-Reply-To: <C5A27A58-5E9E-4D59-B720-3A83DE30D628@genfiniti.com>
References: <C5A27A58-5E9E-4D59-B720-3A83DE30D628@genfiniti.com>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bH4A2qpHZ7x-m5mQiqs1A0T=wdv-9wbPqX0opUwQED-CQ@mail.gmail.com>

On Sun, Sep 9, 2012 at 7:25 PM, G.D. Huggins <guy at genfiniti.com> wrote:

> Is it possible that I did not put enough fluid in the gearbox, even though
> it
> was starting to run out the filling hole?
>
>
>
You usually can't fill both the gearbox and the OD all in one go.  You
either have to wait awhile and add more or run things a bit and add more.

I think you'll find that it will now accept more oil.

Geo

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Sun Sep  9 21:32:56 2012
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2012 22:32:56 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A - OD not engaging. Not enough fluid?
In-Reply-To: <CANzE1bH4A2qpHZ7x-m5mQiqs1A0T=wdv-9wbPqX0opUwQED-CQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <C5A27A58-5E9E-4D59-B720-3A83DE30D628@genfiniti.com>
	<CANzE1bH4A2qpHZ7x-m5mQiqs1A0T=wdv-9wbPqX0opUwQED-CQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <12FBEA0B16F54FD0A9BBDFAA9449014E@GregPC>

Agree with Geo, an old BMC mechanic and buddy of mine suggested jacking the 
front end of the car way up before adding the recommended amount of oil into 
the gearbox, letting gravity help to pursuade the fluid back into the O/D.

Greg Lemon

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Geo Hahn" <ahwahneetr at gmail.com>
To: "G.D. Huggins" <guy at genfiniti.com>; "Triumphs" <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2012 9:38 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A - OD not engaging. Not enough fluid?


> On Sun, Sep 9, 2012 at 7:25 PM, G.D. Huggins <guy at genfiniti.com> wrote:
>
>> Is it possible that I did not put enough fluid in the gearbox, even 
>> though
>> it
>> was starting to run out the filling hole?
>>
>>
>>
> You usually can't fill both the gearbox and the OD all in one go.  You
> either have to wait awhile and add more or run things a bit and add more.
>
> I think you'll find that it will now accept more oil.
>
> Geo
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/glemon at neb.rr.com

From dave at ranteer.com  Sun Sep  9 21:41:06 2012
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Sun, 9 Sep 2012 22:41:06 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A - OD not engaging. Not enough fluid?
In-Reply-To: <12FBEA0B16F54FD0A9BBDFAA9449014E@GregPC>
References: <C5A27A58-5E9E-4D59-B720-3A83DE30D628@genfiniti.com><CANzE1bH4A2qpHZ7x-m5mQiqs1A0T=wdv-9wbPqX0opUwQED-CQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<12FBEA0B16F54FD0A9BBDFAA9449014E@GregPC>
Message-ID: <2F2B69E4B2A04601AE0F96F288160157@Spitfire>

I was also told to do that.

-----Original Message----- 
From: Greg Lemon
Sent: Sunday, September 09, 2012 10:32 PM
To: Geo Hahn ; G.D. Huggins ; Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A - OD not engaging. Not enough fluid?

Agree with Geo, an old BMC mechanic and buddy of mine suggested jacking the
front end of the car way up before adding the recommended amount of oil into
the gearbox, letting gravity help to pursuade the fluid back into the O/D.

Greg Lemon 

From jr468 at hotmail.com  Mon Sep 10 07:38:14 2012
From: jr468 at hotmail.com (John Reed)
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2012 09:38:14 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A rear spring "fulcrum" bolt -- rear shock mount
Message-ID: <BLU152-W12DC875A7051D3C5EAA056EDAC0@phx.gbl>

I had a similar banging noise on my TR3 caused by a loose rear shock that I
couldn't tighten sufficiently.  ISTR it was difficult to get a wrench or
socket on the fastener on the outboard shock side.  I replaced the hex head
bolts with socket head bolts -- the kind that take a hex key or allen wrench
in the head.  I put the bolt in with the socket head on the outboard side and
a nyloc nut on the inboard side of the bracket.  This allowed me to get a good
grip on the bolt so I could torque it down enough to keep it tight.  I did
that around 14 years ago and haven't had a problem with it since.

> Thanks all,  I'm chasing a banging noise in the rear ...
> ...I think the noise is the result of
> the shocks sliding on their mounting bracket holes which have become
> more slots then holes.

From mmarr at notwires.com  Mon Sep 10 07:43:54 2012
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2012 08:43:54 -0500
Subject: [TR] somewhat off topic - bicycles and garages and triumphs
In-Reply-To: <0a6a01cd8e2c$d451faa0$0601a8c0@randall>
References: <2a1ed.4e50c485.3d7c0566@aol.com><09a201cd8d76$46357be0$0601a8c0@randall><E7B2F655652848B6A48C67913E0ADF83@Spitfire>
	<0a6a01cd8e2c$d451faa0$0601a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <1B09D6D02CE3443CB6211918D8BFA63A@PhiSchLSpare101>

I am a sailor and. therefore, like to complicate such matters :).  I use a 
system of blocks (pulleys to the landlubber) to lift the bicycles up to the 
ceiling.  Remember to use the largest practical diameter wheel in the blocks 
that you select, because frictional forces will then be reduced.  Ideally, 
the tackle you design will be chock-a-block (ie the lower block will be 
tight against the upper block) before the handlebars hit the ceiling.  Yes, 
this is indeed the derivation of the term chock-a-block, meaning packed in 
tightly.  And, further off topic, my Dad, who was a product of the Royal 
Navy, used to complain about being "chocker" when he was fed-up - same 
derivation.  I love the English language!

Capt. Mike (Master, Gt Lakes & Inland Waters, 100 Gross Tons)

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Randall" <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 08, 2012 8:45 PM
To: "'Dave'" <dave at ranteer.com>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] somewhat off topic - bicycles and garages and triumphs

>> I'm thinking about mounting the bicycles on either the wall
>> or the ceiling
>
> Mine are stored with those vinyl-coated hooks from Home Depot, screwed 
> into
> the overhead joists over in a corner.
>
> Only problem is the Stag on jackstands in front of them, which kind of
> blocks the access.
>
> -- Randall
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mmarr at notwires.com 

From agraham at execulink.com  Mon Sep 10 09:23:15 2012
From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham)
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2012 11:23:15 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 windshield frame.
Message-ID: <504E05E3.9030906@execulink.com>

Hello List:
Trying to get a better fit on the body to windshield frame seal, took 
the shield off to install a new seal. Turns out a couple of the screws 
securing the bottom frame to the top and sides are stripped. Also found 
a hole - can't tell if it is threaded -  in the center of the bottom 
rail. The bottom rail is loose, not hugging the glass completely.
Is there supposed to be a screw in the center of the bottom rail? Trying 
to deal with the stripped screws in the corner. Is the frame plated 
brass or steel? To get the bottom rail closer to the glass, what about 
having the glass sealed to the frame with some sort of sealer or tape 
and clamped until it sets and grips the glass?
Thanks for any help with this one.
Angelo Graham

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Mon Sep 10 09:48:16 2012
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2012 11:48:16 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 windshield frame.
In-Reply-To: <504E05E3.9030906@execulink.com>
References: <504E05E3.9030906@execulink.com>
Message-ID: <009401cd8f6b$b2c85b00$18591100$@uprichard.net>

Angelo:

No screw at the bottom,  The threads are in a small "L"-shaped piece which
receives screws from the bottom and the sides.  This piece almost invariable
rots out.  The bigger problem is when the  screws snap off and have to be
drilled out.

There is a tape which goes around the glass:  in my experience it works well
to glue the tape to the glass, trim the excess and then use plenty of soap
and hot water to slide the glass into the frame and tighten the screws.

The windshield is plated brass.

Andrew Uprichard.
Just finished a windscreen/shield on a small mouth

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Angelo Graham
Sent: Monday, September 10, 2012 11:23 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 windshield frame.

Hello List:
Trying to get a better fit on the body to windshield frame seal, took the
shield off to install a new seal. Turns out a couple of the screws securing
the bottom frame to the top and sides are stripped. Also found a hole -
can't tell if it is threaded -  in the center of the bottom rail. The bottom
rail is loose, not hugging the glass completely.
Is there supposed to be a screw in the center of the bottom rail? Trying to
deal with the stripped screws in the corner. Is the frame plated brass or
steel? To get the bottom rail closer to the glass, what about having the
glass sealed to the frame with some sort of sealer or tape and clamped until
it sets and grips the glass?
Thanks for any help with this one.
Angelo Graham

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net

From guy at genfiniti.com  Mon Sep 10 11:03:25 2012
From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins)
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2012 12:03:25 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Overdrive Update
Message-ID: <10E38B5C-EF80-4584-8541-6A916083323E@genfiniti.com>

All,

Quick update to yesterday's OD post..

I raised the front of the car, switched-on the OD solenoid, and filled the
gearbox to capacity.
I then took it on a test drive and the OD kicks-in just fine now.

So, once again this rookie learns something new from you old pros.

Thanks to all who responded.



Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph

From lherault at bu.edu  Mon Sep 10 14:10:19 2012
From: lherault at bu.edu (Ron L'Herault)
Date: Mon, 10 Sep 2012 16:10:19 -0400
Subject: [TR] banging from rear of TR3 B
Message-ID: <008d01cd8f90$4d5ac7b0$e8105710$@bu.edu>

I had a '58 3 that banged going over a sharp bump.    At the time the car's
rear bumperetts were missing.   Once I found a couple and bolted them on
(one bolt was quite long - and I had to improvise spacers wit copper pipe)
the banging disappeared.  I guess that long bolt also held the rear corner
of the body onto the frame.

Ron L

From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com  Tue Sep 11 05:49:00 2012
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2012 04:49:00 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] somewhat off topic - bicycles and garages and triumphs
In-Reply-To: <1347363912.56630.YahooMailNeo@web39401.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <1347282408.40291.YahooMailNeo@web39401.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<1347363912.56630.YahooMailNeo@web39401.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1347364140.64821.YahooMailNeo@web39403.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi List! 
Sorry to bome the list, but I can't send this to Dave. So being that
it was on the TR List I'm going to hope that he reads this.
-Cosmo Kramer
>________________________________
> From: Cosmo Kramer <tr4a2712 at yahoo.com>
>To: "ve at ranteer.com" <ve at ranteer.com> 
>Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2012
7:45 AM
>Subject: Re: somewhat off topic - bicycles and garages and triumphs
>
>Hi Dave!
>This bounched back for some reason. So I'm sending it again. 
>-Cosmo Kramer
>
>
>>________________________________
>>From: Cosmo Kramer
<tr4a2712 at yahoo.com>
>>To: "ve at ranteer.com" <ve at ranteer.com> 
>>Sent: Monday,
September 10, 2012 9:06 AM
>>Subject: somewhat off topic - bicycles and
garages and triumphs
>>----------
>> 
>>Date: Sat, 8 Sep 2012 19:46:31 -0500
>>From: "Dave" <dave at ranteer.com>
>>To: "Randall" <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>,
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
>>Subject: [TR] somewhat off topic - bicycles and
garages and triumphs
>>
>>
>>I know that some of you have unlimited garage
space (I'm jealous) and some 
>>do not.
>>
>>I fall into the latter category.
>>
>>I'm thinking about mounting the bicycles on either the wall or the
ceiling
>>
>>any recommendations or warnings?
>>--------------------------    
>>Hi Dave!
>>Now you're talking my field of business.
>> 
>>SUGGESTION:
>>1-
Hang bikes on one large hook (looks like a long letter "J" with a screw
threads on one end & the rest is coated to protect the bike). this way takes
up less horizontal space.
>>2- Install the hooks (if more than one bike to be
hung) the distance apart that = the with of the widest Handle Bar.
>>3 ALWAYS
hang bike by the rear wheel (because of the drop outs will hold the bike if
the rear nuts or Quick Release happen to loosen up some how (I can't think
how, but then there is 'Murphy's law'.
>>4. Get a Christmas tree disposable
bag (Used to engulf the living tree when wanting to through it out to the
garbage so needles won't fall on the house floor when dragging it out).   Now
clean the bike up ( Lube, tuned-up, As if you're ready to ride it.).  Now,
roll the bike into the bag (back end in first with the width of the bag in the
vertical position), all the way to the end.
>>Pick up the bike & hang it by
the rear wheel (If you're careful, you won't have the hook poke through the
bag). Now roll up the open end of the bag a little, then fold the ends inside
a little & finish rolling up the bag until it reaches the front wheel. Now
take a spring clothes pin & install on the roll to stop it from unrolling.
>> 
>>Now if a thief looks in through the window, all they'll see is a large bag
hanging & Not a bike (I believe in the saying, " Out of sight, out of mind."
>>Also, Your bike is ready to ride in "NEW" condition. Another suggestion: let
some air out of the tubes to avoid 'High pressure leaks, but enough to keep
the tyres 'seated' on the rims, with the tyre looking as if it was up to FULL
pressure. The bike should be able to sit on the floor with little deform in
tyres without any wt. on the bike (Lower about 25-30 PSI). 
>>-Cosmo Kramer

From dctr6 at optonline.net  Tue Sep 11 19:05:41 2012
From: dctr6 at optonline.net (Dennis Culligan)
Date: Tue, 11 Sep 2012 21:05:41 -0400
Subject: [TR]  TR6 on Jerry Seinfeld's new show
Message-ID: <002001cd9082$bae01bd0$30a05370$@net>

FYI - This week's episode of Jerry Seinfeld's web-based show "Comedians in
Cars Getting Coffee" features my Tahiti Blue 1976 TR6.  The show can be seen
any time after 9 PM on Thursday, September 13th at
www.comediansincarsgettingcoffee.com or at www.crackle.com or a couple of
other sites. 

NFI (well, they did pay me to use my car.).  

Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Thu Sep 13 06:16:20 2012
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2012 08:16:20 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 on Jerry Seinfeld's new show
Message-ID: <56181.6af3a32c.3d832894@aol.com>

congrats Dennis......
 
 
In a message dated 9/11/2012 9:13:44 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
dctr6 at optonline.net writes:

FYI -  This week's episode of Jerry Seinfeld's web-based show "Comedians in
Cars  Getting Coffee" features my Tahiti Blue 1976 TR6.  The show can be  
seen
any time after 9 PM on Thursday, September 13th  at
www.comediansincarsgettingcoffee.com or at www.crackle.com or a couple  of
other sites. 

NFI (well, they did pay me to use my car.).   

Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U

**  triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From trmarty at hotmail.com  Sat Sep 15 12:54:29 2012
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2012 14:54:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] Conv. Top Window Zipper
Message-ID: <BLU168-W3F97CE154033C41ED651DBA970@phx.gbl>

The zipper in the window has decided to become unzipped for about 1/2 inch
about halfway across the window in the TR8. I tried gently trying to pull the
zipper thingy back through that area to see if I could get it to join back up
as I unzipped the window (hopefully that makes sense). No luck. Any
suggestions?

Thanks,

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Sat Sep 15 13:16:22 2012
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2012 15:16:22 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 exhaust bracket
Message-ID: <001901cd9376$988290d0$c987b270$@uprichard.net>

List:

 

Does anyone know where I can source the 2 rubber mounts for the exhaust
bracket that straddles the center of the frame?  This bracket effectively
braces the exhaust and has rubber mounts on either end.  I can't find any.
Thanks!

Andrew Uprichard

From deruiterville at hotmail.com  Sat Sep 15 13:39:01 2012
From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter)
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2012 14:39:01 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 exhaust bracket
In-Reply-To: <001901cd9376$988290d0$c987b270$@uprichard.net>
References: <001901cd9376$988290d0$c987b270$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <BAY150-W3581E906BBA188CF323F21B9970@phx.gbl>

Andrew-

Part was originally 42243, superceded as GEX7329 - same as grommet for a TR4A
radiator stay.  Roadster factory shows it in their database, Moss has it as
part number 680-640.

Regards
Randy

> From: auprichard at uprichard.net
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2012 15:16:22 -0400
> Subject: [TR] TR3 exhaust bracket
>
> List:
>
>
>
> Does anyone know where I can source the 2 rubber mounts for the exhaust
> bracket that straddles the center of the frame?  This bracket effectively
> braces the exhaust and has rubber mounts on either end.  I can't find any.
> Thanks!
>
> Andrew Uprichard
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/deruiterville at hotmail.com

From wbeech at flash.net  Sat Sep 15 13:45:19 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2012 14:45:19 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 exhaust bracket
In-Reply-To: <001901cd9376$988290d0$c987b270$@uprichard.net>
References: <001901cd9376$988290d0$c987b270$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <C0E1A9512F614D7BAAA8B0912BB1D5DD@bboffice>

Looks like p/n 42243, $2.92 at TRF.  They also sell the complete bracket if
yours is suspect.
NFI,
Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow"
M.Andretti



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard
Sent: Saturday, September 15, 2012 2:16 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3 exhaust bracket

List:

 

Does anyone know where I can source the 2 rubber mounts for the exhaust
bracket that straddles the center of the frame?  This bracket effectively
braces the exhaust and has rubber mounts on either end.  I can't find any.
Thanks!

Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From terryrs at comcast.net  Sat Sep 15 15:50:40 2012
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2012 21:50:40 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Door Seals
In-Reply-To: <001901cd9376$988290d0$c987b270$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <2028418737.103560.1347745840922.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Dear me.

I've received my rubber door seals and clips, including a length of seal covered with red material to match my interior.

I do not, however, have a clue how to install.

Anyone have an idea where an instructional video or solid prose instructions might be had?

Thank you all.

Terry Smith, 1959 TR3A
New Hampshire

From terryrs at comcast.net  Sat Sep 15 15:55:56 2012
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2012 21:55:56 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR3A Steering Box Rebuild
In-Reply-To: <2028418737.103560.1347745840922.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1683941530.103652.1347746156218.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

By the way, I do hate to put this in writing, yes, indeed, but...ah, well, you see...uhm...Randall was right.

The steering on my '59 TR3A had been sloppy, and for years I'd compensated by compromising between stiffness and play.

Randall mentioned that when he did a rebuild of his box, he was amazed at the difference and said "I should have done it sooner."

Steering is now much easier and yet no slop in the wheel at all.  Moss carries the worm gear for the end of the steering shaft.  It's splined and peened over, but an easy installation by my machine shop, or for those of you better than I at that kind of thing.  Moss also carries the peg, which was another machine shop installation.  Would have waited til winter, but I wound up with the apron off for something else, so took an extra week to get this monkey off my back.

Terry Smith, '59 TR3a
New Hampshire

From terryrs at comcast.net  Sat Sep 15 15:59:24 2012
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2012 21:59:24 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Rattle
In-Reply-To: <2028418737.103560.1347745840922.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1902654822.103703.1347746364331.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

One last thing.  I'd lived with this annoyance for the past 10 years, since I'd restored the car...a rattle from the front that I just couldn't locate.  

Recently I started the engine with the hood up and noticed the vibration on the bonnet duzies.  I'd thought that cranking down on them to close the bonnet would have dampered any rattle, but apparently not the case.  I put a rubber o-ring under the washer beneath the duzie and the rattle has disappeared.  The car is actually now purring quietly down the road.

I didn't think it was possible.  Probably shouldn't be and I'm tempting the Triumph gods....

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

From terryrs at comcast.net  Sat Sep 15 16:02:32 2012
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2012 22:02:32 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] One last question
In-Reply-To: <2028418737.103560.1347745840922.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1974722767.103766.1347746552673.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

So, I've been noticing that lately the TR3A is overheating.  No, not massively, but over a distance of 20 miles, it'll bump over 195 or 200.  It does have a new water pump and a good fan belt.  Timing is dead on.  Performance couldn't be better.

What sorts of symptons can a defective thermostat give?

Thank you all yet again.

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

From wbeech at flash.net  Sat Sep 15 16:27:24 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2012 17:27:24 -0500
Subject: [TR] One last question
In-Reply-To: <1974722767.103766.1347746552673.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <2028418737.103560.1347745840922.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<1974722767.103766.1347746552673.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BDD964CD6BBB46DD856D1F629406E6AE@bboffice>

Symptom of a defective thermostat is.... Drum roll... Overheating.  Good
thing is that they are cheap and easy to replace.  IF everything else
appears to be right, it is good place to start.
Bill

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of terryrs at comcast.net
Sent: Saturday, September 15, 2012 5:03 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] One last question

So, I've been noticing that lately the TR3A is overheating.  No, not
massively, but over a distance of 20 miles, it'll bump over 195 or 200.  It
does have a new water pump and a good fan belt.  Timing is dead on.
Performance couldn't be better.

What sorts of symptons can a defective thermostat give?

Thank you all yet again.

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From wbeech at flash.net  Sat Sep 15 16:36:53 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2012 17:36:53 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 Door Seals
In-Reply-To: <2028418737.103560.1347745840922.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <001901cd9376$988290d0$c987b270$@uprichard.net>
	<2028418737.103560.1347745840922.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <E05C50CD62164CBAAD0F17E627AC5BBA@bboffice>

The fuzzy seal goes up the side of the "A" pillar and "B" pillar.  On the
"B" you have that stuff that looks like someone rolled up a brown paper bag
real tight and stuck it into that slotted gap, tack your fuzzy strip to that
and then the interior panel will cover it.  On the "A" pillar I just glued
it on that edge then when it got covered with the panel I made sure I caught
it with three screws, top, bottom & center.

The clips go into those holes along the bottom of the door and along the
bottom of the front scuttle, where it meets the door, then it wraps up under
the front dash rail capping, about three inches.  You clip the clip onto the
rubber then push/pull it through the hole.  I did mine while the door panel
was off and used a pair of 90 degree needle-nosed pliers to grab it and pull
it on through the hole and lock into place.

Picture available upon request.


Hope this helps,
Bill



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of terryrs at comcast.net
Sent: Saturday, September 15, 2012 4:51 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3 Door Seals

Dear me.

I've received my rubber door seals and clips, including a length of seal
covered with red material to match my interior.

I do not, however, have a clue how to install.

Anyone have an idea where an instructional video or solid prose instructions
might be had?

Thank you all.

Terry Smith, 1959 TR3A
New Hampshire

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sat Sep 15 16:38:27 2012
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2012 18:38:27 -0400
Subject: [TR] One last question
In-Reply-To: <1974722767.103766.1347746552673.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1974722767.103766.1347746552673.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <50550363.4070800@adelphia.net>

Terry,

The best thing I ever did for my 3s was to install air deflectors on the 
sides of the apron to channel all air entering from behind the grill 
directly to the radiator. I think TRF sells a cardboard replica but I 
just made my own out of some thick plastic I had around. I just cut 
accordingly and screwed them to the apron sides with machine screws. I 
never have overheating unless stuck in bumper to bumper traffic when the 
outside temp. is > than 85 or so. When driving down the road temp never 
gets much above 180 even on hot days.

Now if you already have installed deflectors and you suspect your 
thermostat, it is easy to check by removing it and checking it out on 
top of the stove in a pan of water. Bring up the water to the 
temperature of the thermostat and you should see the thermostat start to 
open as the temperature approaches the rating of the thermostat. If it 
doesn't completely open at the rated temperature, time for a new 
thermostat.

Bob



On 09/15/2012 06:02 PM, terryrs at comcast.net wrote:
> So, I've been noticing that lately the TR3A is overheating.  No, not massively, but over a distance of 20 miles, it'll bump over 195 or 200.  It does have a new water pump and a good fan belt.  Timing is dead on.  Performance couldn't be better.
>
> What sorts of symptons can a defective thermostat give?
>
> Thank you all yet again.
>
> Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
> New Hampshire
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr at adelphia.net

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Sat Sep 15 16:43:24 2012
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2012 22:43:24 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] One last question
In-Reply-To: <BDD964CD6BBB46DD856D1F629406E6AE@bboffice>
Message-ID: <1107665330.2007198.1347749004423.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

List,



For aB good place to start troubleshooting overheating issues:


Go to Moss Motors web site.
Click on TR2-4A
Click on cooling system
Click on radiators
"For TR2-4A cooling system information click 'here'."

Ed Woods

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Sat Sep 15 18:25:07 2012
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2012 17:25:07 -0700
Subject: [TR] One last question
In-Reply-To: <BDD964CD6BBB46DD856D1F629406E6AE@bboffice>
References: <2028418737.103560.1347745840922.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<1974722767.103766.1347746552673.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<BDD964CD6BBB46DD856D1F629406E6AE@bboffice>
Message-ID: <50551C63.8080804@gmail.com>

On 9/15/12 3:27 PM, Wbeech wrote:
> Symptom of a defective thermostat is.... Drum roll... Overheating.  Good
> thing is that they are cheap and easy to replace.  IF everything else
> appears to be right, it is good place to start.
> Bill
>
And here I didn't even know that anyone made correct thermostats for the 
TR engine.  I've been hording a collection of new Smiths bellows 
thermostats for nothing I guess.

TeriAnn

Counting down to Triumphest 2012.

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Sat Sep 15 19:06:27 2012
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2012 21:06:27 -0400
Subject: [TR] One last question
In-Reply-To: <50551C63.8080804@gmail.com>
References: <2028418737.103560.1347745840922.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<1974722767.103766.1347746552673.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<BDD964CD6BBB46DD856D1F629406E6AE@bboffice>
	<50551C63.8080804@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANhzkeO0Ay47yQ9cTHqTbd_3LoB08b0xhJe7uqBwdc8qtw07gw@mail.gmail.com>

I just use chevy small block thermostats nowadays.
On Sep 15, 2012 8:29 PM, "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman at gmail.com> wrote:

> On 9/15/12 3:27 PM, Wbeech wrote:
>
>> Symptom of a defective thermostat is.... Drum roll... Overheating.  Good
>> thing is that they are cheap and easy to replace.  IF everything else
>> appears to be right, it is good place to start.
>> Bill
>>
>>  And here I didn't even know that anyone made correct thermostats for the
> TR engine.  I've been hording a collection of new Smiths bellows
> thermostats for nothing I guess.
>
> TeriAnn
>
> Counting down to Triumphest 2012.
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/triumphs/ccsimonsen@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ccsimonsen at gmail.com>

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Sat Sep 15 19:33:16 2012
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2012 21:33:16 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tr6 pertronix misswire
In-Reply-To: <CANhzkeOcDbV-n12M2LWP4_7ev_kq90x8DzKi0K-sDdptD_3ybg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANhzkeOcDbV-n12M2LWP4_7ev_kq90x8DzKi0K-sDdptD_3ybg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANhzkeN6UuX7kimAY0gdocajnnp6g40Gf1gDioNco2Eup1+XeQ@mail.gmail.com>

Finally digging into the TR6 that I recently purchased.

Horrible experience with Just Tires took 3 hours to get tires and i had an
appointment!   On the way home it had issues. It died about 2 miles from
the tire place.

It would barely run. And basically runs for 30 seconds and then dies.
Probably a fuel problem if I've learned anything on this list. . It's a
1973 and has a ballast resistor and pertronix was connected to the coil
verses 12 volts. That might explain why it died when i turned the
headlights on.

I went back to points and still died after 15 sec. Turns out the fuel
regulator is intermittent.

Much better now.  Also replaced 4 ft of melted red wire in the trunk. Found
green-red wire melted, too. Things are finally working!

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Sep 15 23:35:04 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2012 22:35:04 -0700
Subject: [TR] One last question
In-Reply-To: <CANhzkeO0Ay47yQ9cTHqTbd_3LoB08b0xhJe7uqBwdc8qtw07gw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <2028418737.103560.1347745840922.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net><1974722767.103766.1347746552673.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net><BDD964CD6BBB46DD856D1F629406E6AE@bboffice><50551C63.8080804@gmail.com>
	<CANhzkeO0Ay47yQ9cTHqTbd_3LoB08b0xhJe7uqBwdc8qtw07gw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <007801cd93cd$06f5c040$0601a8c0@randall>

> I just use chevy small block thermostats nowadays.

Ditto.  Even the factory gave up on those aneroid monstrosities.

-- Randall  

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Sep 15 23:48:23 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2012 22:48:23 -0700
Subject: [TR] One last question
In-Reply-To: <1974722767.103766.1347746552673.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <2028418737.103560.1347745840922.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<1974722767.103766.1347746552673.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <007901cd93ce$e3148010$0601a8c0@randall>

> What sorts of symptons can a defective thermostat give?

Fairly easy test, without disassembling anything: Raise the hood, start the
engine from cold.  Let it idle until the temp gauge gets near where the
Tstat should open.  Feel the radiator upper tank and core, it should still
be noticeably colder than the thermostat housing.  (Be careful when you feel
the Tstat housing, it's hot while the radiator isn't.)  Continue to let it
idle until the upper tank suddenly gets quite hot, same as the Tstat
housing.  If the temp gauge reading is reasonably close to the Tstat rating,
then it is probably working fine.

Although not a 100% test, I've never seen a bad thermostat that would pass
it.

If the temperature creeps up over 20 miles, I tend to doubt that it is the
thermostat.  If the tstat is stuck closed, it will overheat much quicker
than that.

FWIW, I've had that exact symptom twice now.  Both times, after checking
everything else, it turned out to be a bad radiator.  Now with the new
radiator core and the electric fan, I never see 200F even in 100+ ambient
stop and go traffic.

-- Randall  

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Sun Sep 16 07:44:06 2012
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 06:44:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] One last question
In-Reply-To: <007801cd93cd$06f5c040$0601a8c0@randall>
References: <2028418737.103560.1347745840922.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net><1974722767.103766.1347746552673.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net><BDD964CD6BBB46DD856D1F629406E6AE@bboffice><50551C63.8080804@gmail.com>
	<CANhzkeO0Ay47yQ9cTHqTbd_3LoB08b0xhJe7uqBwdc8qtw07gw@mail.gmail.com>
	<007801cd93cd$06f5c040$0601a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <5055D7A6.1090205@gmail.com>

On 9/15/12 10:35 PM, Randall wrote:
>> I just use chevy small block thermostats nowadays.
> Ditto.  Even the factory gave up on those aneroid monstrosities.
>
> -- Randall
>
Are you trying to tell me that the factory stopped putting sleeved 
thermostats in the TR2-4A engine before the TR4A was discontinued???

The TR engine has 2 water paths. One to provide coolant to the head 
while the thermostat is closed and the engine is below operating 
temperature.  This path bypasses the radiator.  The other path is for an 
engine at operating temperature which channels virtually all the coolant 
through the radiator.  That sleeve on the thermostat acts as a valve 
switching between the 2 coolant pathways.

A thermostat without the sleeve leaves both pathways open when the 
engine is at operating temperature allowing coolant to take the path of 
least resistance and bypass the radiator.  What good is the radiator if 
a significant part of the coolant gets circulated through the engine 
without visiting the radiator?

And if you block off the bypass, coolant does not get circulated through 
the head during warm up causing localized boiling and thermal stress 
that often results in a cracked head.

It is my current understanding that Smiths sold new sleeved thermostats 
as replacements for at least 10-15 years after the TR3-4A engine was 
discontinued.

The Land Rover four cylinder engine used a sleeve thermostat as well 
until some time in the mid 1970s.  At that time the LR engineers 
redesigned the thermostat housing to reduce the opening for the bypass 
restricting the radiator bypass flow.  This forced almost all the 
coolant through the radiator when the thermostat is open but allows a 
small flow through the head while the thermostat is closed.

Are the sleeved thermostats " aneroid monstrosities" because you do not 
have one?  over the past 25+ years I've found that they work just fine 
and provide a long service life.

TeriAnn

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sun Sep 16 09:03:09 2012
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 08:03:09 -0700
Subject: [TR] One last question
In-Reply-To: <5055D7A6.1090205@gmail.com>
References: <2028418737.103560.1347745840922.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<1974722767.103766.1347746552673.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<BDD964CD6BBB46DD856D1F629406E6AE@bboffice>
	<50551C63.8080804@gmail.com>
	<CANhzkeO0Ay47yQ9cTHqTbd_3LoB08b0xhJe7uqBwdc8qtw07gw@mail.gmail.com>
	<007801cd93cd$06f5c040$0601a8c0@randall> <5055D7A6.1090205@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bGdR6ZLSL9nj=DD_mSet8mj8iA9Ep1baZ4iV0_=aXE34g@mail.gmail.com>

On Sun, Sep 16, 2012 at 6:44 AM, TeriAnn J. Wakeman <tjwakeman at gmail.com>wrote:

> Are you trying to tell me that the factory stopped putting sleeved
>> thermostats in the TR2-4A engine before the TR4A was discontinued???
>
>


That is my understanding.  I have seen TR4A thermostat housings with a
restriction in place to limit the bypass flow to accomodate a non-sleeved
thermostat.  I believe what I saw was original to the car in question (even
have photos here somewhere) but perhaps a TR4A owner knows for sure.

Geo

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sun Sep 16 09:07:19 2012
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 08:07:19 -0700
Subject: [TR] One last question
In-Reply-To: <CANzE1bGdR6ZLSL9nj=DD_mSet8mj8iA9Ep1baZ4iV0_=aXE34g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <2028418737.103560.1347745840922.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<1974722767.103766.1347746552673.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<BDD964CD6BBB46DD856D1F629406E6AE@bboffice>
	<50551C63.8080804@gmail.com>
	<CANhzkeO0Ay47yQ9cTHqTbd_3LoB08b0xhJe7uqBwdc8qtw07gw@mail.gmail.com>
	<007801cd93cd$06f5c040$0601a8c0@randall> <5055D7A6.1090205@gmail.com>
	<CANzE1bGdR6ZLSL9nj=DD_mSet8mj8iA9Ep1baZ4iV0_=aXE34g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bFjmY=JJUQ7quXH_GeEthbHa1CB3LqWtCvh0NkBcFKnOQ@mail.gmail.com>

Photos of a TR4A thermostat housing with what I think is a smaller,
restricting outlet...

TR4A Thermostat and
housing<https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&pid=gmail&attid=0.1&thid=139ad43b6
db8f3e4&mt=application/pdf&url=https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/?ui%3D2%26ik%
3D5b74da4199%26view%3Datt%26th%3D139ad43b6db8f3e4%26attid%3D0.1%26disp%3Dsafe
%26zw&sig=AHIEtbS9jJq18QjwZ9oW4Hzn6B_J5mA3PQ>


On Sun, Sep 16, 2012 at 8:03 AM, Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com> wrote:

> On Sun, Sep 16, 2012 at 6:44 AM, TeriAnn J. Wakeman
<tjwakeman at gmail.com>wrote:
>
>>  Are you trying to tell me that the factory stopped putting sleeved
>>> thermostats in the TR2-4A engine before the TR4A was discontinued???
>>
>>
>
> That is my understanding.  I have seen TR4A thermostat housings with a
> restriction in place to limit the bypass flow to accomodate a non-sleeved
> thermostat.  I believe what I saw was original to the car in question (even
> have photos here somewhere) but perhaps a TR4A owner knows for sure.
>
> Geo

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Sun Sep 16 09:20:32 2012
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 11:20:32 -0400
Subject: [TR] One last question
In-Reply-To: <CANzE1bGdR6ZLSL9nj=DD_mSet8mj8iA9Ep1baZ4iV0_=aXE34g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <2028418737.103560.1347745840922.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<1974722767.103766.1347746552673.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<BDD964CD6BBB46DD856D1F629406E6AE@bboffice>
	<50551C63.8080804@gmail.com>
	<CANhzkeO0Ay47yQ9cTHqTbd_3LoB08b0xhJe7uqBwdc8qtw07gw@mail.gmail.com>
	<007801cd93cd$06f5c040$0601a8c0@randall> <5055D7A6.1090205@gmail.com>
	<CANzE1bGdR6ZLSL9nj=DD_mSet8mj8iA9Ep1baZ4iV0_=aXE34g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANhzkePrvC7sobYqiX5E2poH61d=cUaVjyYVKSPy+KWt=ja6Zw@mail.gmail.com>

I put a restrictor in the bypass hose - on My TR4 it's an old 1/4 drive
drive socket that fit iinsde the hose just perfectly. On the TR2 it's a
Delrin spacer drilled with 1/4 inch hole.

I put the last of my smiths thermostats in the TR2 during the rebirth last
winter - it was still new in the box - but it over heated and I found it
was full of water when I removed it. I had a chevy thermostat and stuck it
in and we are doing well.   Well....-I ran it without the front apron on in
100 degree weather - it got a bit north of 200 degrees but did not boil
over.  Apron back in place - much better.

As an aside - Without the apron on I can see it was very easy for air to
flow around the radiator vs through it.  -  My new to me TR6 was the same
way - The radiator duct was missing and it was getting hot - it works much
better with a duct in place.

From spook01 at comcast.net  Sun Sep 16 10:59:06 2012
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 11:59:06 -0500
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?One_last_question?=
Message-ID: <mailman.12.1347814573.3155.triumphs@autox.team.net>

Sounds like the competition flow restrictor sold through dealers.  Used instead of a thermostat.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Geo Hahn" <ahwahneetr at gmail.com>
To: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman at gmail.com>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] One last question
Date: Sun, Sep 16, 2012 10:03


On Sun, Sep 16, 2012 at 6:44 AM, TeriAnn J. Wakeman <tjwakeman at gmail.com>wrote:

> Are you trying to tell me that the factory stopped putting sleeved
>> thermostats in the TR2-4A engine before the TR4A was discontinued???
>
>


That is my understanding.  I have seen TR4A thermostat housings with a
restriction in place to limit the bypass flow to accomodate a non-sleeved
thermostat.  I believe what I saw was original to the car in question (even
have photos here somewhere) but perhaps a TR4A owner knows for sure.

Geo

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net

From spitfire at freebacon.net  Sun Sep 16 11:08:48 2012
From: spitfire at freebacon.net (Mike Welch)
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 11:08:48 -0600
Subject: [TR] One last question
In-Reply-To: <007901cd93ce$e3148010$0601a8c0@randall>
References: <2028418737.103560.1347745840922.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net><1974722767.103766.1347746552673.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<007901cd93ce$e3148010$0601a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <9CD698052F2E4920A152BF249F97289C@Spike>

I use an infrared thermometer, if the temp gauge says 200 and the IR 
thermometer says 180, I tend to believe the IR.
Last time I did this, was fighting red-lining temp gauge for a month, 
everything tested OK, replaced radiator, hoses, gauge, voltage regulator, 
flushed everything, no joy.  It was only after using the IR thermometer that 
I figured out it was the temp sending unit.

Mike Welch
'62 MkI, 2 '69 MkIII, '79 1500
Colorado Springs, CO, USA

-----Original Message----- 
From: Randall
Sent: Saturday, September 15, 2012 11:48 PM
To: terryrs at comcast.net ; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] One last question

> What sorts of symptons can a defective thermostat give?

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sun Sep 16 11:09:06 2012
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 10:09:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] One last question
In-Reply-To: <CAPK7CFDeRuZ58pr3LSCc7QpR2HaBRuG_csGpReJHjCoyGc0m5A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <2028418737.103560.1347745840922.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<1974722767.103766.1347746552673.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<BDD964CD6BBB46DD856D1F629406E6AE@bboffice>
	<50551C63.8080804@gmail.com>
	<CANhzkeO0Ay47yQ9cTHqTbd_3LoB08b0xhJe7uqBwdc8qtw07gw@mail.gmail.com>
	<007801cd93cd$06f5c040$0601a8c0@randall> <5055D7A6.1090205@gmail.com>
	<CANzE1bGdR6ZLSL9nj=DD_mSet8mj8iA9Ep1baZ4iV0_=aXE34g@mail.gmail.com>
	<CANzE1bFjmY=JJUQ7quXH_GeEthbHa1CB3LqWtCvh0NkBcFKnOQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<CAPK7CFDeRuZ58pr3LSCc7QpR2HaBRuG_csGpReJHjCoyGc0m5A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bFiZA53E0OdPq=NbrvkeQXzAgVWrYWBfYSLUkG5dSGgdg@mail.gmail.com>

On Sun, Sep 16, 2012 at 8:38 AM, Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com> wrote:

> Could you repost the link?  No worky....
>

Sorry, maybe only I can see that Google image (because it was an attachment
sent to me).  Here's a different place:

TR4A Tstat & Housing<http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/TR4/TR4ATstat.png>


Geo

From McGaheyRx at aol.com  Sun Sep 16 11:18:07 2012
From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 13:18:07 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] One last question
Message-ID: <3cac.46d9f120.3d8763cf@aol.com>

If you have a known good IR thermometer, that will work, but I have had 2  
IR thermometers disagree by more than that. I don't trust the cheap ones  
anymore.
 
Cheers,
Jack Mc
 
 
 
 
In a message dated 9/16/2012 1:11:21 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
spitfire at freebacon.net writes:

I use an  infrared thermometer, if the temp gauge says 200 and the IR 
thermometer  says 180, I tend to believe the  IR.

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Sep 16 11:31:58 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 10:31:58 -0700
Subject: [TR] One last question
In-Reply-To: <5055D7A6.1090205@gmail.com>
References: <2028418737.103560.1347745840922.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net><1974722767.103766.1347746552673.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net><BDD964CD6BBB46DD856D1F629406E6AE@bboffice><50551C63.8080804@gmail.com><CANhzkeO0Ay47yQ9cTHqTbd_3LoB08b0xhJe7uqBwdc8qtw07gw@mail.gmail.com><007801cd93cd$06f5c040$0601a8c0@randall>
	<5055D7A6.1090205@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <00c201cd9431$2cd61b70$0601a8c0@randall>

> Are you trying to tell me that the factory stopped putting sleeved 
> thermostats in the TR2-4A engine before the TR4A was discontinued???

Yes, I am.  And the later, non-sleeved thermostat was listed as a factory
supercession for the earlier sleeved thermostat.  They even changed the
illustration for the TR4A parts manual (although IIRC the thermostat change
came before that).

> What good is the radiator if 
> a significant part of the coolant gets circulated through the engine 
> without visiting the radiator?

How do you know it is "significant"?

All it takes is "enough" through the radiator.  Once the radiator tubes are
the same temperature as the water, then forcing more water through does not
help and may actually reduce cooling.

I have experimented several times now, on 3 different TR3/As with various
stages of cooling problems, and found absolutely no improvement in cooling
from blocking the bypass either partially or totally.  Many American cars
leave the bypass open all the time, as do the TR6, early Stags and, I
believe, early TR7 as well.  I don't know about the TR8 offhand, but being a
GM design I'll bet it leaves the bypass open as well.

Also worth noting that the TR4-4A thermostat housing has a smaller opening
for the bypass, providing more restriction.  But my experiments were done
with a TR3 housing.

I do have several NOS Smiths aneroid tstats on the shelf, as well as a TR4A
thermostat housing with the smaller passage.  Never seen the need to
install, so there they sit.  My bypass is open, and I have no cooling
problems even in 100F+ ambient, prolonged stop and go traffic.  (Not too
many weeks ago, it took me some 1.5 hours to drive 20 miles in rush hour and
the friend I was meeting told me that his dash thermometer said it was
110F.)  The cooling system will take the heat much better than the driver
can !

Granted, my cooling system is no longer exactly stock; I installed the
electric fan while fighting with overheating problems (which were later
discovered to caused by a bad radiator), and I added a recovery bottle from
a TR4 just because I was tired of worrying about whether I was losing
coolant or not.  The 10 psi cap was also added while fighting with the bad
radiator.  But the bypass did not seem to be the limiting factor then, and
it still doesn't now.

PS, I also didn't see any difference with 3 different designs of water pump.
There are some comparison photos at
http://goo.gl/5Ockf
I'm currently running a 4-vane aftermarket pump similar to the one shown in
the photos.  (The one shown started to leak about a year after those photos
were taken.)

-- Randall  

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Sep 16 11:35:19 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 10:35:19 -0700
Subject: [TR] One last question
In-Reply-To: <3cac.46d9f120.3d8763cf@aol.com>
References: <3cac.46d9f120.3d8763cf@aol.com>
Message-ID: <00cf01cd9431$a4ebd640$0601a8c0@randall>

> If you have a known good IR thermometer, that will work, but 
> I have had 2  
> IR thermometers disagree by more than that. I don't trust the 
> cheap ones  
> anymore.

All IR thermometers are inherently inaccurate, if you don't know the
emissivity of the surface you point them at.  (To get an accurate reading,
it has to be compensated for emissivity.)  And weathered aluminum has an
unusually wide range of emissivity.  I can see 20F or more change in
reading, just by moving the spot by 1/4" or so; which I do not believe is
the unit's fault.

-- Randall  

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Sep 16 11:39:35 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 10:39:35 -0700
Subject: [TR] One last question
In-Reply-To: <CANzE1bFiZA53E0OdPq=NbrvkeQXzAgVWrYWBfYSLUkG5dSGgdg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <2028418737.103560.1347745840922.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net><1974722767.103766.1347746552673.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net><BDD964CD6BBB46DD856D1F629406E6AE@bboffice><50551C63.8080804@gmail.com><CANhzkeO0Ay47yQ9cTHqTbd_3LoB08b0xhJe7uqBwdc8qtw07gw@mail.gmail.com><007801cd93cd$06f5c040$0601a8c0@randall>
	<5055D7A6.1090205@gmail.com><CANzE1bGdR6ZLSL9nj=DD_mSet8mj8iA9Ep1baZ4iV0_=aXE34g@mail.gmail.com><CANzE1bFjmY=JJUQ7quXH_GeEthbHa1CB3LqWtCvh0NkBcFKnOQ@mail.gmail.com><CAPK7CFDeRuZ58pr3LSCc7QpR2HaBRuG_csGpReJHjCoyGc0m5A@mail.gmail.com>
	<CANzE1bFiZA53E0OdPq=NbrvkeQXzAgVWrYWBfYSLUkG5dSGgdg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <00d001cd9432$3d3d36f0$0601a8c0@randall>

Here is another comparison:
http://goo.gl/EPkvm

-- Randall  

From spook01 at comcast.net  Sun Sep 16 11:49:19 2012
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 12:49:19 -0500
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?One_last_question?=
Message-ID: <mailman.13.1347817585.3155.triumphs@autox.team.net>

I use a low tech cookie thermometer.  Reads dead on, costs four dollars.
IR. You guys.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Mike Welch" <spitfire at freebacon.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] One last question
Date: Sun, Sep 16, 2012 12:08


I use an infrared thermometer, if the temp gauge says 200 and the IR thermometer says 180, I tend to believe the IR.
Last time I did this, was fighting red-lining temp gauge for a month, everything tested OK, replaced radiator, hoses, gauge, voltage regulator, flushed everything, no joy.  It was only after using the IR thermometer that I figured out it was the temp sending unit.

Mike Welch
'62 MkI, 2 '69 MkIII, '79 1500
Colorado Springs, CO, USA

-----Original Message----- From: Randall
Sent: Saturday, September 15, 2012 11:48 PM
To: terryrs at comcast.net ; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] One last question

> What sorts of symptons can a defective thermostat give?

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net

From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Sun Sep 16 12:01:48 2012
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 13:01:48 -0500
Subject: [TR] One last question
In-Reply-To: <00d001cd9432$3d3d36f0$0601a8c0@randall>
References: <2028418737.103560.1347745840922.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<1974722767.103766.1347746552673.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<BDD964CD6BBB46DD856D1F629406E6AE@bboffice>
	<50551C63.8080804@gmail.com>
	<CANhzkeO0Ay47yQ9cTHqTbd_3LoB08b0xhJe7uqBwdc8qtw07gw@mail.gmail.com>
	<007801cd93cd$06f5c040$0601a8c0@randall> <5055D7A6.1090205@gmail.com>
	<CANzE1bGdR6ZLSL9nj=DD_mSet8mj8iA9Ep1baZ4iV0_=aXE34g@mail.gmail.com>
	<CANzE1bFjmY=JJUQ7quXH_GeEthbHa1CB3LqWtCvh0NkBcFKnOQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<CAPK7CFDeRuZ58pr3LSCc7QpR2HaBRuG_csGpReJHjCoyGc0m5A@mail.gmail.com>
	<CANzE1bFiZA53E0OdPq=NbrvkeQXzAgVWrYWBfYSLUkG5dSGgdg@mail.gmail.com>
	<00d001cd9432$3d3d36f0$0601a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <CAPK7CFA_OHR0a5+74FLBx3db4TyENMV+viCQU1VaDkd2SLBRDg@mail.gmail.com>

My TR3B had a "different" approach to bypass hose restriction when I
got it in 1981 -- a hose clamp on the outside of the bypass hose
squeezing it down from outside in.  Seemed to work at the time, but
probably not the best approach...

Here's what it looked like before I took it all apart a couple of years ago.
http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-k5Gb3rT/0/XL/i-k5Gb3rT-XL.jpg

Don


On 9/16/12, Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
> Here is another comparison:
> http://goo.gl/EPkvm
>
> -- Randall

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Sep 16 12:14:31 2012
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 14:14:31 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] One last question
Message-ID: <e28f.763df908.3d877106@cs.com>

Your car looked a little better than that yesterday.

A bunch, actually.

Dave

In a message dated 9/16/2012 1:01:57 PM Central Daylight Time, 
don.hiscock at gmail.com writes: 
> Here's what it looked like before I took it all apart a couple of years 
> ago.
> http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-k5Gb3rT/0/XL/i-k5Gb3rT-XL.jpg

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Sun Sep 16 12:37:11 2012
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 11:37:11 -0700
Subject: [TR] One last question
In-Reply-To: <00d001cd9432$3d3d36f0$0601a8c0@randall>
References: <2028418737.103560.1347745840922.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net><1974722767.103766.1347746552673.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net><BDD964CD6BBB46DD856D1F629406E6AE@bboffice><50551C63.8080804@gmail.com><CANhzkeO0Ay47yQ9cTHqTbd_3LoB08b0xhJe7uqBwdc8qtw07gw@mail.gmail.com><007801cd93cd$06f5c040$0601a8c0@randall>
	<5055D7A6.1090205@gmail.com><CANzE1bGdR6ZLSL9nj=DD_mSet8mj8iA9Ep1baZ4iV0_=aXE34g@mail.gmail.com><CANzE1bFjmY=JJUQ7quXH_GeEthbHa1CB3LqWtCvh0NkBcFKnOQ@mail.gmail.com><CAPK7CFDeRuZ58pr3LSCc7QpR2HaBRuG_csGpReJHjCoyGc0m5A@mail.gmail.com>
	<CANzE1bFiZA53E0OdPq=NbrvkeQXzAgVWrYWBfYSLUkG5dSGgdg@mail.gmail.com>
	<00d001cd9432$3d3d36f0$0601a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <50561C57.3010404@gmail.com>

Thanks folks and keep the discussion going.  I had hoped that my 
contribution would get replies going over various ways to get around the 
lack of a skirted thermostat. Since I have spares I never looked into 
alternatives.  It looks like the factory solved it with the TR4A's or 
whenever they phased in the parts with restrictions.

So what else have people done?  Should we expand the discussion to 
include ways to get more cool coolant to the #4 cylinder?

TeriAnn

On 9/16/12 10:39 AM, Randall wrote:
> Here is another comparison:
> http://goo.gl/EPkvm

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sun Sep 16 13:09:09 2012
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 12:09:09 -0700
Subject: [TR] One last question
In-Reply-To: <50561C57.3010404@gmail.com>
References: <2028418737.103560.1347745840922.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<1974722767.103766.1347746552673.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<BDD964CD6BBB46DD856D1F629406E6AE@bboffice>
	<50551C63.8080804@gmail.com>
	<CANhzkeO0Ay47yQ9cTHqTbd_3LoB08b0xhJe7uqBwdc8qtw07gw@mail.gmail.com>
	<007801cd93cd$06f5c040$0601a8c0@randall> <5055D7A6.1090205@gmail.com>
	<CANzE1bGdR6ZLSL9nj=DD_mSet8mj8iA9Ep1baZ4iV0_=aXE34g@mail.gmail.com>
	<CANzE1bFjmY=JJUQ7quXH_GeEthbHa1CB3LqWtCvh0NkBcFKnOQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<CAPK7CFDeRuZ58pr3LSCc7QpR2HaBRuG_csGpReJHjCoyGc0m5A@mail.gmail.com>
	<CANzE1bFiZA53E0OdPq=NbrvkeQXzAgVWrYWBfYSLUkG5dSGgdg@mail.gmail.com>
	<00d001cd9432$3d3d36f0$0601a8c0@randall> <50561C57.3010404@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bFxcuZZKh1yNW9g7x+ZiTZQDztVw==3noFayZcDpd1tiQ@mail.gmail.com>

On Sun, Sep 16, 2012 at 11:37 AM, TeriAnn J. Wakeman <tjwakeman at gmail.com>wrote:

> So what else have people done?  Should we expand the discussion to include
> ways to get more cool coolant to the #4 cylinder?



I semi-blocked the bypass with a 3/4" copper cap w/ a 3/16" hole -- no idea
if it helps (have no problem with cooling) but doesn't seem to hurt in
about 30 years of use.

Blocked Bypass <http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/bypasshose.JPG>

As for #4 -- last time I had the head off I rigged up a length of small
diameter brass tubing to my ShopVac and performed TR liposuction on the
coolant jacket, especially around number 4 where it sucked out what looked
for all the world like sand.

Like many of you, I've done so many things thru the years to improve
cooling I am unsure which help and which are just good luck charms.  The
net result cools well though (has to in Tucson) so I leave them all in
place.

Geo

From fishplate at charter.net  Sun Sep 16 13:45:33 2012
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff)
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 15:45:33 -0400
Subject: [TR] One last question
In-Reply-To: <9CD698052F2E4920A152BF249F97289C@Spike>
References: <2028418737.103560.1347745840922.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net><1974722767.103766.1347746552673.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<007901cd93ce$e3148010$0601a8c0@randall>
	<9CD698052F2E4920A152BF249F97289C@Spike>
Message-ID: <50562C5D.5090308@charter.net>

On 9/16/2012 1:08 PM, Mike Welch wrote:
> I use an infrared thermometer, if the temp gauge says 200 and the IR 
> thermometer says 180, I tend to believe the IR.
> Last time I did this, was fighting red-lining temp gauge for a month, 
> everything tested OK, replaced radiator, hoses, gauge, voltage 
> regulator, flushed everything, no joy.  It was only after using the IR 
> thermometer that I figured out it was the temp sending unit.

You can also stick a thermometer in the cold radiator (when the cap is 
not remotely mounted) and get a good idea by watching it as it warms up....

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Sun Sep 16 14:42:06 2012
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 13:42:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Morgan Quadrant Gauge
Message-ID: <1347828126.70845.YahooMailNeo@web180904.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

     I am helping a friend with his Morgan. I was looking in the book
"Original Morgan". It states "The quadrant gauge has three instruments...". I
guess it makes sense.

     -Bill in Tehachapi

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Sun Sep 16 14:43:10 2012
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 16:43:10 -0400
Subject: [TR] Sleeved thermostat
In-Reply-To: <mailman.12.1347818402.10082.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.12.1347818402.10082.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAJL2xS8Qce5OmzH6VzgCDbfCgAAAEAAAAFYnKz9Q9SpHjJfMWdf5dyABAAAAAA==@optonline.net>

Sleeved thermostat available at Moss. (NFI)
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=47023
Bob

From terryrs at comcast.net  Sun Sep 16 15:18:17 2012
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 21:18:17 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] One last question NOW Restrictor flow
In-Reply-To: <CANhzkePrvC7sobYqiX5E2poH61d=cUaVjyYVKSPy+KWt=ja6Zw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1399273703.125658.1347830297758.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Some years ago on the List, advice was to put a 3/4th inch copper plumbing pipe end cap in the hose with a 3/8ths hole in the center.  Can't say whether it works or not, since I never did a control study.  But I can say that it doesn't "not" work.  

----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Simo" <ccsimonsen at gmail.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 11:20:32 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] One last question

I put a restrictor in the bypass hose - on My TR4 it's an old 1/4 drive
drive socket that fit iinsde the hose just perfectly. On the TR2 it's a
Delrin spacer drilled with 1/4 inch hole.

I put the last of my smiths thermostats in the TR2 during the rebirth last
winter - it was still new in the box - but it over heated and I found it
was full of water when I removed it. I had a chevy thermostat and stuck it
in and we are doing well.   Well....-I ran it without the front apron on in
100 degree weather - it got a bit north of 200 degrees but did not boil
over.  Apron back in place - much better.

As an aside - Without the apron on I can see it was very easy for air to
flow around the radiator vs through it.  -  My new to me TR6 was the same
way - The radiator duct was missing and it was getting hot - it works much
better with a duct in place.

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/terryrs at comcast.net

From agraham at execulink.com  Sun Sep 16 16:33:18 2012
From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham)
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 18:33:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 oil pressure question
Message-ID: <505653AE.1010600@execulink.com>

Hello List:
Concerned about the oil pressure in my 'fresh' engine in the '2. Right 
on idle, seems to hold at around 40 - 50 lbs. on a cold engine. When hot 
and revved, climbs only slightly. I changed the filter head to the later 
Purolator full flow type. I suspect that the pressure on the filter head 
needs to be adjusted. Do you do the adjustments with a cold engine or 
after warm-up? Do you adjust for idle pressure or higher revs and higher 
pressure?
Not sure about the accuracy of the actual gauge. No reason to suspect it 
and it is the original gauge. Any easy way to check the gauge? Find 
another one and compare??
Also, should the spring and ball bearing in the filter head under the 
bolt be replaced to start with a fresh spring and ball?
Thanks for any insights.
Angelo Graham

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Sun Sep 16 17:35:51 2012
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 16:35:51 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 for sale - Around $2500-$3000
Message-ID: <50566257.6050409@gmail.com>

I was recently approached by a guy who decided to put his 1957 TR3 up 
for sale.

He has had it for a number of years & decided to rebuild it.  According 
to him the engine & rest of the drive train is done and I think he said 
the suspension was done.  Anyway he went through a divorce, kept the car 
but lost the garage.  The car has been sitting outside under a tarp for 
a couple of years.  Since he can't find a garage for it he has decided 
to sell it.

The body needs cleaning up and painting and it needs an interior.  He 
has a bunch of new parts for the car.

The car is located a couple miles South of Flagstaff off # 17.

For details, call Jerry at 928-607-5018

TeriAnn

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Sep 16 21:29:04 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 20:29:04 -0700
Subject: [TR] Morgan Quadrant Gauge
In-Reply-To: <1347828126.70845.YahooMailNeo@web180904.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1347828126.70845.YahooMailNeo@web180904.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <014901cd9484$96ce5170$0601a8c0@randall>

>      I am helping a friend with his Morgan. I was looking in the book
> "Original Morgan". It states "The quadrant gauge has three 
> instruments..."

So, what's in the 4th quadrant?  Turn indicator?

-- Randall  

From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Sep 16 22:30:50 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 22:30:50 -0600
Subject: [TR] Morgan Quadrant Gauge
In-Reply-To: <014901cd9484$96ce5170$0601a8c0@randall>
References: <1347828126.70845.YahooMailNeo@web180904.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<014901cd9484$96ce5170$0601a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <5056A77A.10702@bradakis.com>

Oddly enough I was just watching an episode of the old TV show "Rockford 
Files"
The beautiful young woman drove out of the country club parking lot in a 
Morgan.
There wasn't a clear shot of the dash.

mjb.

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Sun Sep 16 22:47:58 2012
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2012 21:47:58 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Morgan Quadrant Gauge
In-Reply-To: <014901cd9484$96ce5170$0601a8c0@randall>
References: <1347828126.70845.YahooMailNeo@web180904.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<014901cd9484$96ce5170$0601a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <1347857278.51498.YahooMailNeo@web180902.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

     There are only 3 gauges in the Morgan quadrant gauge. At one point they
must have had four. No turn indicators for 1952.

     -Bill in Tehachapi
________________________________
 From: Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>
To:
'William Brewer' <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>; 'Triumphs' <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 8:29 PM
Subject: RE: [TR] Morgan Quadrant
Gauge
 
>      I am helping a friend with his Morgan. I was looking in the
book
> "Original Morgan". It states "The quadrant gauge has three 
>
instruments..."

So, what's in the 4th quadrant?  Turn indicator?

--
Randall 

From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk  Mon Sep 17 05:31:47 2012
From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 12:31:47 +0100 (BST)
Subject: [TR] Morgan Quadrant Gauge
In-Reply-To: <014901cd9484$96ce5170$0601a8c0@randall>
References: <1347828126.70845.YahooMailNeo@web180904.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<014901cd9484$96ce5170$0601a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <1347881507.29880.YahooMailNeo@web29402.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

I hear from friends who work at Morgan which is very close to my home, that
there's been a lot of work over the years by R&D on the development of a
'comfortometer.' Maybe that's what they plan for the fourth quadrant?
 
Jonmac
________________________________
 From: Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>
To:
'William Brewer' <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>; 'Triumphs' <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, 17 September 2012, 4:29
Subject: Re: [TR] Morgan Quadrant Gauge
>>      I am helping a friend with his Morgan. I was looking in the book
>>
"Original Morgan". It states "The quadrant gauge has three 
>> instruments..."
>
>So, what's in the 4th quadrant?  Turn indicator?
>
>-- Randall  
>
>**
triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Sep 17 05:46:55 2012
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 07:46:55 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Morgan Quadrant Gauge
Message-ID: <1a05.2ae718b2.3d8867af@cs.com>

What a coincidence.  There were two Morgan's at the St. Louis All British 
Car Show, a Roadster and a Drophead Coupe.  I didn't think to look at the 
dash.

The TR3 was there with no interior but a hood (bonnet) that actually closes 
now.

Dave

In a message dated 9/16/2012 11:28:35 PM Central Daylight Time, 
mark at bradakis.com writes: 
> Oddly enough I was just watching an episode of the old TV show "Rockford 
> Files"
> The beautiful young woman drove out of the country club parking lot in a 
> Morgan.
> There wasn't a clear shot of the dash.

From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Mon Sep 17 05:54:08 2012
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 07:54:08 -0400
Subject: [TR] Morgan Quadrant Gauge
In-Reply-To: <1a05.2ae718b2.3d8867af@cs.com>
References: <1a05.2ae718b2.3d8867af@cs.com>
Message-ID: <CAPK7CFCYx21DmA_t5FsphECV=_-9JGpd-7d_Q2CoQBw3nDg0HQ@mail.gmail.com>

Dave, ask as ye shall receive...  Here's a dash shot of that 1963 Morgan +4
Drophead Coupi at the 2012 St Louis All British Car Show.  What I'd call a
quadrant gauge has four very respectable indicators on it.
http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/i-4JmxZKW/0/XL/i-4JmxZKW-XL.jpg

Don

On Mon, Sep 17, 2012 at 7:46 AM, <Dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:

> What a coincidence.  There were two Morgan's at the St. Louis All British
> Car Show, a Roadster and a Drophead Coupe.  I didn't think to look at the
> dash.
>
> The TR3 was there with no interior but a hood (bonnet) that actually closes
> now.
>
> Dave
>
> In a message dated 9/16/2012 11:28:35 PM Central Daylight Time,
> mark at bradakis.com writes:
> > Oddly enough I was just watching an episode of the old TV show "Rockford
> > Files"
> > The beautiful young woman drove out of the country club parking lot in a
> > Morgan.
> > There wasn't a clear shot of the dash.
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Sep 17 06:07:55 2012
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 08:07:55 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Morgan Quadrant Gauge
Message-ID: <2001.2a4b8194.3d886c9b@cs.com>

That reminds me of the "Wonderful Control."  The "Wonderful Control" was 
written into a product spec as a control to allow the user to adjust the level 
of "Wonderfulness" to his liking.  I'm not sure how it works but I think it 
uses something called the "Placebo Effect."

Dave

In a message dated 9/17/2012 6:31:57 AM Central Daylight Time, 
flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk writes: 
> I hear from friends who work at Morgan which is very close to my home, 
> that
> there's been a lot of work over the years by R&D on the development of a
> 'comfortometer.' Maybe that's what they plan for the fourth quadrant?

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Sep 17 06:11:04 2012
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 08:11:04 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Morgan Quadrant Gauge
Message-ID: <2106.27a3abfd.3d886d57@cs.com>

Ah, yes.  The Drophead.  Wonderful woodwork.  Who's forehead is that in the
mirror?

Dave

In a message dated 9/17/2012 6:54:30 AM Central Daylight Time,
don.hiscock at gmail.com writes:
> Dave, ask as ye shall receive...  Here's a dash shot of that 1963 Morgan
> +4 Drophead Coupi at the 2012 St Louis All British Car Show.  What I'd call
> a quadrant gauge has four very respectable indicators on it.
> http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/i-4JmxZKW/0/XL/i-4JmxZKW-XL.jpg

From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Mon Sep 17 06:50:10 2012
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 08:50:10 -0400
Subject: [TR] Morgan Quadrant Gauge
In-Reply-To: <2106.27a3abfd.3d886d57@cs.com>
References: <2106.27a3abfd.3d886d57@cs.com>
Message-ID: <CAPK7CFC-bLn-eQnnLeMcTuJxdimNXLSXXF5F5cuvimf8wCegsg@mail.gmail.com>

Dunno who got caught in the mirror on the Moggie shot -- not me for sure.
It was busy enough at the St Louis show to have a tough time snapping cars
without people in the frame.

Don

On Monday, September 17, 2012, wrote:

> Ah, yes.  The Drophead.  Wonderful woodwork.  Who's forehead is that in the
> mirror?
>
> Dave
>
> In a message dated 9/17/2012 6:54:30 AM Central Daylight Time,
> don.hiscock at gmail.com <javascript:;> writes:
> > Dave, ask as ye shall receive...  Here's a dash shot of that 1963 Morgan
> > +4 Drophead Coupi at the 2012 St Louis All British Car Show.  What I'd
> call
> > a quadrant gauge has four very respectable indicators on it.
> > http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/i-4JmxZKW/0/XL/i-4JmxZKW-XL.jpg
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net <javascript:;> **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com

From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk  Mon Sep 17 07:19:07 2012
From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 14:19:07 +0100 (BST)
Subject: [TR] Morgan Quadrant Gauge
In-Reply-To: <CAPK7CFC-bLn-eQnnLeMcTuJxdimNXLSXXF5F5cuvimf8wCegsg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <2106.27a3abfd.3d886d57@cs.com>
	<CAPK7CFC-bLn-eQnnLeMcTuJxdimNXLSXXF5F5cuvimf8wCegsg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1347887947.90014.YahooMailNeo@web29403.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

"Oh, are you taking a photograph?"
"No, you stupid idiot. I'm standing here,
camera in hand to record The Second Coming."
 
That's what I heard at a recent
UK show. Immediately wrote it in my little black book of insults for future
reference.
 
Jonmac
________________________________
 From: Don Hiscock
<don.hiscock at gmail.com>
To: "Dave1massey at cs.com" <Dave1massey at cs.com> 
Cc:
"triumphs at autox.team.net" <triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Monday, 17
September 2012, 13:50
Subject: Re: [TR] Morgan Quadrant Gauge


>Dunno who got
caught in the mirror on the Moggie shot -- not me for sure.
>It was busy
enough at the St Louis show to have a tough time snapping cars
>without people
in the frame.
>
>Don
>
>On Monday, September 17, 2012, wrote:
>
>> Ah, yes. 
The Drophead.  Wonderful woodwork.  Who's forehead is that in the
>> mirror?
>>
>> Dave
>>
>> In a message dated 9/17/2012 6:54:30 AM Central Daylight
Time,
>> don.hiscock at gmail.com <javascript:;> writes:
>> > Dave, ask as ye
shall receive...  Here's a dash shot of that 1963 Morgan
>> > +4 Drophead
Coupi at the 2012 St Louis All British Car Show.  What I'd
>> call
>> > a
quadrant gauge has four very respectable indicators on it.
>> >
http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/i-4JmxZKW/0/XL/i-4JmxZKW-XL.jpg
>>
>> **
triumphs at autox.team.net <javascript:;> **
>>
>> Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com
>
>**
triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk

From wbeech at flash.net  Mon Sep 17 08:02:57 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 09:02:57 -0500
Subject: [TR] One last question NOW Restrictor flow
In-Reply-To: <1399273703.125658.1347830297758.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <CANhzkePrvC7sobYqiX5E2poH61d=cUaVjyYVKSPy+KWt=ja6Zw@mail.gmail.com>
	<1399273703.125658.1347830297758.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <07FC6A0A08674C21BE08CBCA991F751E@bboffice>

Reading with interest all this about restricting the bypass hose.  What was
the purpose of this bypass and why didn't it work?
Bill 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of terryrs at comcast.net
Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 4:18 PM
To: Chris Simo
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] One last question NOW Restrictor flow

Some years ago on the List, advice was to put a 3/4th inch copper plumbing
pipe end cap in the hose with a 3/8ths hole in the center.  Can't say
whether it works or not, since I never did a control study.  But I can say
that it doesn't "not" work.  

----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Simo" <ccsimonsen at gmail.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 11:20:32 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] One last question

I put a restrictor in the bypass hose - on My TR4 it's an old 1/4 drive
drive socket that fit iinsde the hose just perfectly. On the TR2 it's a
Delrin spacer drilled with 1/4 inch hole.

I put the last of my smiths thermostats in the TR2 during the rebirth last
winter - it was still new in the box - but it over heated and I found it was
full of water when I removed it. I had a chevy thermostat and stuck it
in and we are doing well.   Well....-I ran it without the front apron on in
100 degree weather - it got a bit north of 200 degrees but did not boil
over.  Apron back in place - much better.

As an aside - Without the apron on I can see it was very easy for air to
flow around the radiator vs through it.  -  My new to me TR6 was the same
way - The radiator duct was missing and it was getting hot - it works much
better with a duct in place.

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From JPayne at ThorCon.net  Mon Sep 17 08:11:00 2012
From: JPayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 14:11:00 +0000
Subject: [TR] Morgan Quadrant Gauge
In-Reply-To: <014901cd9484$96ce5170$0601a8c0@randall>
References: <1347828126.70845.YahooMailNeo@web180904.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<014901cd9484$96ce5170$0601a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <5891B364A7C3594B9466304B59E65B1C45C4DE57@ex1mbx01.onthenetoffice.com>

Oil pres, water temp, fuel level and Amperage


Jonas Payne
PBR
Cell:   (702) 358-5084


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 8:29 PM
To: 'William Brewer'; 'Triumphs'
Subject: Re: [TR] Morgan Quadrant Gauge

>      I am helping a friend with his Morgan. I was looking in the book
> "Original Morgan". It states "The quadrant gauge has three
> instruments..."

So, what's in the 4th quadrant?  Turn indicator?

-- Randall

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From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Mon Sep 17 09:12:52 2012
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 08:12:52 -0700
Subject: [TR] One last question NOW Restrictor flow
In-Reply-To: <07FC6A0A08674C21BE08CBCA991F751E@bboffice>
References: <CANhzkePrvC7sobYqiX5E2poH61d=cUaVjyYVKSPy+KWt=ja6Zw@mail.gmail.com>
	<1399273703.125658.1347830297758.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<07FC6A0A08674C21BE08CBCA991F751E@bboffice>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bGgEnyxKLVx14LZi4tFyOrBP81WGQQmzf4TX7k6y32C0Q@mail.gmail.com>

On Mon, Sep 17, 2012 at 7:02 AM, Wbeech <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:

> Reading with interest all this about restricting the bypass hose.  What was
> the purpose of this bypass and why didn't it work?
>

The bypass works just fine.  The idea (as I understand it) was to help the
engine warm-up quickly coolant was circulated through the head via that
bypass hose rather than simply sitting there waiting for the thermstat to
open.  Apart from the benefits to the engine of warming up sooner, it also
delivered cabin heat sooner if the heater valve was open.

When the original style thermostat at last opened the skirt in its design
would slip in front of the opening in the tstat housing that fed the hose,
effectively blocking that flow (no longer needed).

When using a 'modern' thermostat (no such skirt) some choose to partially
block that hose so it does not continue to allow some coolant to bypass the
radiator... the feeling being that returning hot coolant directly to the
head rather than sending (almost) all coolant thru the radiator would
reduce cooling overall.

Clearly there is not total agreement on whether this is necessary or even
wise.

Geo

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Sep 17 10:50:05 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 09:50:05 -0700
Subject: [TR] One last question NOW Restrictor flow
In-Reply-To: <07FC6A0A08674C21BE08CBCA991F751E@bboffice>
References: <CANhzkePrvC7sobYqiX5E2poH61d=cUaVjyYVKSPy+KWt=ja6Zw@mail.gmail.com><1399273703.125658.1347830297758.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<07FC6A0A08674C21BE08CBCA991F751E@bboffice>
Message-ID: <01c101cd94f4$7daa0d40$0601a8c0@randall>

> Reading with interest all this about restricting the bypass 
> hose.  What was
> the purpose of this bypass and why didn't it work?

Just to amplify a bit on what Geo already said, the bypass is quite
important and I do not recommend that anyone run with it totally blocked;
unless you make other provisions for allowing coolant to move through the
cylinder head while the thermostat is closed.  

Cast iron is surprisingly brittle and does not like sudden temperature
changes.  With the thermostat closed and the bypass blocked, the part of the
head near the combustion chamber and valves will get heated to nearly
boiling before the water at the thermostat gets hot enough for the tstat to
open.  Then when it starts to open, it gets the extremely hot water from the
head and snaps full open, allowing the essentially room temperature water in
the bottom of the radiator to be forced into the block and head, suddenly
cooling the head.  The result can be a cracked head.

While experimenting with blocking the bypass (so I could assess the
difference in cooling), I also drilled a hole through the thermostat so it
could not fully block the flow, thereby avoiding the above scenario.  The
result is slower warm up, but that is not a significant issue where I live
(and I don't even have a heater).

-- Randall  

From grandfatherjim at gmail.com  Mon Sep 17 12:46:17 2012
From: grandfatherjim at gmail.com (Jim Wallace)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 14:46:17 -0400
Subject: [TR] Turn signal/emerg flashers
Message-ID: <CAA43NTv13pq9aALoRgS1LbdWh-oRNq5R7_YzY_LL3GP_OCMngA@mail.gmail.com>

I am wiring my 3a with a Dan Masters kit, and have included switches for
the electric radiator fan and emergency flashers.
Is it possible to use the same turn signal indicator on the dash for the
emergency flasher indicator? i.e. can I connect the two "P" terminals of
the flashers together? I don't know what goes on inside those things.
See schematic here: www.advanceautowire.com/tr2od.pdf

Thanks,
Jim

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Sep 17 14:43:31 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 13:43:31 -0700
Subject: [TR] Turn signal/emerg flashers
In-Reply-To: <CAA43NTv13pq9aALoRgS1LbdWh-oRNq5R7_YzY_LL3GP_OCMngA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAA43NTv13pq9aALoRgS1LbdWh-oRNq5R7_YzY_LL3GP_OCMngA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <022901cd9515$19d0f970$0601a8c0@randall>

> Is it possible to use the same turn signal indicator on the 
> dash for the
> emergency flasher indicator? i.e. can I connect the two "P" 
> terminals of
> the flashers together?

An interesting question.  I have not tried it, but I don't see any reason it
shouldn't work well enough.  At least with the flashers I have examined, "P"
is open circuit unless the flasher is in the middle of a flash.  In other
words, inside is a double throw relay with the turn signals connected to the
normally closed contact and the dash lamp connected to the normally open
contact.  When the relay pulls in, it breaks the circuit to the turn signals
and completes the circuit to the dash lamp.

The only potential oddity is that you might be able to find a condition
where constant power gets fed back into the ignition circuit; by doing
something like turning on the hazard flashers while the turn signals are
running.  And even then I think the effect would be momentary, the turn
flasher will stop flashing when it's load is removed (by the hazard switch).

But I would be tempted (as long as you're rewiring everything anyway), to
use a pair of diodes instead.  That way you could use 2-terminal flashers.
The diodes would need to connect from the two outputs of the hazard switch
(GR & GW) to the dash lamp; with the diode polarity to suit your battery
polarity so each diode will only pass current when the GR/GW wire is hot.

Not all 3-terminal flashers work the way I outlined above, but they won't
work properly anyway.

-- Randall  

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Mon Sep 17 16:02:17 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 15:02:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] lift the dot fastner tr3
In-Reply-To: <022901cd9515$19d0f970$0601a8c0@randall>
References: <CAA43NTv13pq9aALoRgS1LbdWh-oRNq5R7_YzY_LL3GP_OCMngA@mail.gmail.com>
	<022901cd9515$19d0f970$0601a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <1347919337.28478.YahooMailNeo@web120006.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

looking at the moss catalogs it would appear that i require multiple different lift the dot fasteners for use on the tonneau of TS 41366?
really?
thanks
Frank

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Mon Sep 17 16:23:02 2012
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 15:23:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] lift the dot fastner tr3
In-Reply-To: <1347919337.28478.YahooMailNeo@web120006.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <CAA43NTv13pq9aALoRgS1LbdWh-oRNq5R7_YzY_LL3GP_OCMngA@mail.gmail.com>
	<022901cd9515$19d0f970$0601a8c0@randall>
	<1347919337.28478.YahooMailNeo@web120006.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bEwiGThPxGmoCu-PY+RzQcKLBvj3bwrQbqT666+NOKbzQ@mail.gmail.com>

On mine they are all the same female fastener -- the pegs however are
needed in both machine thread (with nut) and sheet metal screw.

Geo

On Mon, Sep 17, 2012 at 3:02 PM, Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com> wrote:

> looking at the moss catalogs it would appear that i require multiple
> different lift the dot fasteners for use on the tonneau of TS 41366?
> really?
> thanks
> Frank
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Mon Sep 17 16:32:41 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 15:32:41 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] lift the dot fastner tr3
In-Reply-To: <CANzE1bEwiGThPxGmoCu-PY+RzQcKLBvj3bwrQbqT666+NOKbzQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAA43NTv13pq9aALoRgS1LbdWh-oRNq5R7_YzY_LL3GP_OCMngA@mail.gmail.com>
	<022901cd9515$19d0f970$0601a8c0@randall>
	<1347919337.28478.YahooMailNeo@web120006.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<CANzE1bEwiGThPxGmoCu-PY+RzQcKLBvj3bwrQbqT666+NOKbzQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1347921161.33588.YahooMailNeo@web120005.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

 
i have all the studs in place.
but i just had a doh! moment.
moss shows the
clips with different key numbers. if one follows and pays attention one finds
they all have the same part number.
thanks 


From: Geo Hahn
<ahwahneetr at gmail.com>
To: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com> 
Cc:
"triumphs at autox.team.net" <triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Monday, September
17, 2012 3:23 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] lift the dot fastner tr3


On mine they are
all the same female fastener -- the pegs however are needed in both machine
thread (with nut) and sheet metal screw.

Geo


On Mon, Sep 17, 2012 at 3:02
PM, Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com> wrote:

looking at the moss catalogs it
would appear that i require multiple different lift the dot fasteners for use
on the tonneau of TS 41366?
>really?
>thanks
>Frank
>
>**
triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From fishplate at charter.net  Mon Sep 17 18:55:20 2012
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff)
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 20:55:20 -0400
Subject: [TR] Transmission Fastener Esoterica
Message-ID: <5057C678.2040107@charter.net>

List,

I'm finally able to put my transmission back in the car (1975 TR-6) 
after several months of resealing and too hot to drive it anyway. There 
are two 1/2" bolts that fasten the transmission end housing to the 
mounting bracket.  The RH bolt, which is 1/4" longer than the LH, also 
holds the "steady bracket" for the gearshift extension, and has a spacer 
on it.  This bolt also calls for a jam nut instead of a regular bolt.

When I took all this apart, I don't recall seeing a spacer, and it's not 
in my bolt bag.  This had been out at least once or twice before, so it 
may have got lost.  I can't find any dimensions for the spacer.

So, two questions:

1.  How thick should it be?  It's easy for me to make one, if I know 
what size.

2.  How important is it, anyway?  There must be some clearance issues, 
since the jam nut is in there too, but I don't want to wait until it's 
back in the car to find out I need to fiddle and fettle to make it fit 
right.

TIA,
Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Tue Sep 18 16:06:10 2012
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2012 15:06:10 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] oil leak
Message-ID: <1348005970.19696.YahooMailNeo@web120601.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Recently overhauled tr-3 engine I'm just breaking in has an oil leak which
just keeps dripping even while sitting still and I think it's simply the oil
pan drain plug.  (always a drip on it with puddle on the floor).  I've always
had problems with this plug really sealing on the tr-6 as well as the tr-3. 
If I had a choice of oil leaks I'll gladly take this problem LOL but it's a
mess.  I'm wondering if anyone has had this problem or has a solution besides
just wrapping with ton's of tape........?
thanks!

gary n.

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Tue Sep 18 16:18:40 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2012 15:18:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] oil leak
In-Reply-To: <1348005970.19696.YahooMailNeo@web120601.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1348005970.19696.YahooMailNeo@web120601.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1348006720.38750.YahooMailNeo@web120005.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Hylomar.
works on everything
Frank

From: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg at yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" <triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Tuesday,
September 18, 2012 3:06 PM
Subject: [TR] oil leak

Recently overhauled tr-3
engine I'm just breaking in has an oil leak which
just keeps dripping even
while sitting still and I think it's simply the oil
pan drain plug.  (always a
drip on it with puddle on the floor).  I've always
had problems with this plug
really sealing on the tr-6 as well as the tr-3. 
If I had a choice of oil
leaks I'll gladly take this problem LOL but it's a
mess.  I'm wondering if
anyone has had this problem or has a solution besides
just wrapping with ton's
of tape........?
thanks!

gary n.

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Tue Sep 18 16:29:27 2012
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2012 17:29:27 -0500
Subject: [TR] oil leak
In-Reply-To: <1348005970.19696.YahooMailNeo@web120601.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1348005970.19696.YahooMailNeo@web120601.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAPK7CFCZOg8GZXsT5HT++dWC_iP_2H-AXLME0MsjtK-1v=4qQA@mail.gmail.com>

Fumoto oil valve?  Don't have one on my TR3B, but I've used these for
years on other vehicles.  They work great.

http://www.fumotousa.com/

Don

On 9/18/12, Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg at yahoo.com> wrote:
> Recently overhauled tr-3 engine I'm just breaking in has an oil leak which
> just keeps dripping even while sitting still and I think it's simply the
> oil
> pan drain plug.  (always a drip on it with puddle on the floor).  I've
> always
> had problems with this plug really sealing on the tr-6 as well as the tr-3.
>
> If I had a choice of oil leaks I'll gladly take this problem LOL but it's a
> mess.  I'm wondering if anyone has had this problem or has a solution
> besides
> just wrapping with ton's of tape........?
> thanks!
>
> gary n.
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Sep 18 16:56:51 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (tr3driver at ca.rr.com)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2012 18:56:51 -0400
Subject: [TR] oil leak
In-Reply-To: <1348005970.19696.YahooMailNeo@web120601.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20120918225651.FL0XN.34427.root@cdptpa-web19-z01>

---- Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg at yahoo.com> wrote: 
> Recently overhauled tr-3 engine I'm just breaking in has an oil leak which
> just keeps dripping even while sitting still and I think it's simply the oil
> pan drain plug.  (always a drip on it with puddle on the floor).  I've always
> had problems with this plug really sealing on the tr-6 as well as the tr-3. 

First thing is to be sure it is really the plug.  Since it is the lowest point, almost any leak higher up will eventually drip from the plug.  Last time I went chasing in that area, it was the fuel pump that was leaking oil, and the gasket formed a small pocket inside so it kept leaking for several days after the engine was shut off.

If it is the plug, then I suggest:

1) Get a suitable pipe tap and chase the threads.  Since they are tapered, it is OK to cut just a little bit deeper (say 1/4 turn) to clean up any damage to the thread surface.
2) Get a hardened hex socket plug rather than the standard square head plug (plus of course a suitable hex wrench to turn it).  I like to use magnetic drain plugs, McMaster-Carr has them in both varieties.
3) Use teflon or PTFE "pipe dope" rather than tape.  Should be readily available at your local hardware or big box store.

All this is assuming you have the later oil pan with the NPT drain plug.  TR2/3 up to TS18901E used a straight-thread plug and a fiber washer.  If you have one of those, then use a fine flat file to carefully dress the sealing surface, plus a new washer (WF524  $.50 @ TRF) and Hylomar.  Inspect the plug as well, sometimes the sealing surface gets distorted.  TRF has the plug listed as V7535.

From suhringtr36 at comcast.net  Tue Sep 18 19:45:04 2012
From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (suhringtr36 at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2012 01:45:04 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR3A Spare Tire
Message-ID: <1444236313.201092.1348019104922.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Does anyone have recommendations for a spare tire that will fit into the spare tire trunk of a TR3A?  I know we can find old 155s and replace with a new tube, but I recall years back a discussion on possible modern donut spares that would fit a TR3A as well as the trunk.  Thanks.

Scott Suhring
70 TR5
59 TR3A

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Tue Sep 18 19:49:48 2012
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2012 21:49:48 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3A Spare Tire
Message-ID: <4d2b.36f71eb7.3d8a7ebc@aol.com>

I use a space-saver tyre on my wire spare wheel. It's an early TR3A, which  
I think had a smaller spare wheel compartment (not sure on that one, 
though). I  had a 165 on the wheel before. The previous owner managed to get it in 
there,  but once I'd finally managed to remove it for a different job, I 
couldn't get it  back in again, so switched to the space saver, as recommended 
on this list, I  think.
 
Hope that helps.
 
Tim (TS22930LO)
 
 
 
In a message dated 18/09/2012 9:45:51 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
suhringtr36 at comcast.net writes:

Does  anyone have recommendations for a spare tire that will fit into the 
spare tire  trunk of a TR3A?  I know we can find old 155s and replace with a 
new  tube, but I recall years back a discussion on possible modern donut 
spares  that would fit a TR3A as well as the trunk.  Thanks.

Scott  Suhring
70 TR5
59 TR3A

** triumphs at autox.team.net  **

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From glemon at neb.rr.com  Tue Sep 18 20:17:43 2012
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (glemon at neb.rr.com)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2012 2:17:43 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR3A Spare Tire
In-Reply-To: <4d2b.36f71eb7.3d8a7ebc@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20120919021743.JBGHC.183926.root@hrndva-web09-z02>

I believe an older Saab space saver has the right bolt pattern but not sure what years maybe late 80s early nineties.

Greg Lemon

---- KingsCreekTrees at aol.com wrote: 
> I use a space-saver tyre on my wire spare wheel. It's an early TR3A, which  
> I think had a smaller spare wheel compartment (not sure on that one, 
> though). I  had a 165 on the wheel before. The previous owner managed to get it in 
> there,  but once I'd finally managed to remove it for a different job, I 
> couldn't get it  back in again, so switched to the space saver, as recommended 
> on this list, I  think.
>  
> Hope that helps.
>  
> Tim (TS22930LO)
>  
>  
>  
> In a message dated 18/09/2012 9:45:51 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
> suhringtr36 at comcast.net writes:
> 
> Does  anyone have recommendations for a spare tire that will fit into the 
> spare tire  trunk of a TR3A?  I know we can find old 155s and replace with a 
> new  tube, but I recall years back a discussion on possible modern donut 
> spares  that would fit a TR3A as well as the trunk.  Thanks.
> 
> Scott  Suhring
> 70 TR5
> 59 TR3A
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net  **
> 
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From cliff_hansen at earthlink.net  Tue Sep 18 20:47:04 2012
From: cliff_hansen at earthlink.net (Cliff Hansen)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2012 20:47:04 -0600
Subject: [TR] Transmission Fastener Esoterica
In-Reply-To: <5057C678.2040107@charter.net>
References: <5057C678.2040107@charter.net>
Message-ID: <EEC2A14DDA5944CD98E150FF2F403875@Shemp>

Jeff,

That's the same part as is used on the TR4 and TR4A.  The spacer fits 
between the bottom of the steady bracket (nice term for it) and the top of 
the gearbox extension.  The only purpose I can see is to take up the space 
between the steady bracket and the gearbox.  I have that greasy bit 
somewhere in the garage, which I can find and measure, but I think you would 
be just fine using washer(s) of appropriate thickness.

Have no idea about the jam nut.  There's plenty of space there on the TR4, 
relatively speaking.

Cliff


-----Original Message----- 
From: Jeff
Sent: Monday, September 17, 2012 6:55 PM
To: *Triumphs List
Subject: [TR] Transmission Fastener Esoterica

List,

I'm finally able to put my transmission back in the car (1975 TR-6)
after several months of resealing and too hot to drive it anyway. There
are two 1/2" bolts that fasten the transmission end housing to the
mounting bracket.  The RH bolt, which is 1/4" longer than the LH, also
holds the "steady bracket" for the gearshift extension, and has a spacer
on it.  This bolt also calls for a jam nut instead of a regular bolt.

When I took all this apart, I don't recall seeing a spacer, and it's not
in my bolt bag.  This had been out at least once or twice before, so it
may have got lost.  I can't find any dimensions for the spacer.

So, two questions:

1.  How thick should it be?  It's easy for me to make one, if I know
what size.

2.  How important is it, anyway?  There must be some clearance issues,
since the jam nut is in there too, but I don't want to wait until it's
back in the car to find out I need to fiddle and fettle to make it fit
right.

TIA,
Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Sep 18 21:10:05 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2012 20:10:05 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A Spare Tire
In-Reply-To: <1444236313.201092.1348019104922.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1444236313.201092.1348019104922.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <046a01cd9614$44cf48c0$0601a8c0@randall>

> Does anyone have recommendations for a spare tire that will 
> fit into the spare tire trunk of a TR3A?

I found a "compact spare" at the local junkyard that fit on a stock TR3
wheel and fits easily inside my early spare tire compartment.  (The
compartment did get larger at TS6000.)  Not sure what car it was from,
possibly an 80's Nissan Maxima.  The wheel had the right bolt pattern, but
would not clear the brake calipers on my TR so I moved the tire to a TR3
wheel.  Tire size is marked as "T135/70D15".  Looks like the 2012 Honda
Civic Hybrid uses the same tire.  Also 95-98 Acura TL and 87 Mazda RX7.

Only problem, there is enough room left over in the compartment for the
spare to slide around.  I keep a spare blanket stuffed in beside it to
prevent the sliding; which also makes a handy knee protector while changing
tires or performing other roadside service.

It's my understanding that the temporary spares do not suffer from the "old
age" problem of ordinary car tires.  Of course they are also not recommended
for high speed or prolonged use.  That said, I drove about 2 hours at 70+
mph on mine, with no ill effects.

There's a photo at http://goo.gl/DPpp6  Kind of grungy since the tire had
just been forcibly removed from my wrecked TR3A.

-- Randall  

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Tue Sep 18 22:35:06 2012
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2012 21:35:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A Spare Tire
In-Reply-To: <1444236313.201092.1348019104922.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1444236313.201092.1348019104922.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <50594B7A.1090503@gmail.com>

On 9/18/12 6:45 PM, suhringtr36 at comcast.net wrote:
> Does anyone have recommendations for a spare tire that will fit into the spare tire trunk of a TR3A?  I know we can find old 155s and replace with a new tube, but I recall years back a discussion on possible modern donut spares that would fit a TR3A as well as the trunk.  Thanks.
I have a 165/15 on a 48 spoke wheel as a spare. Tight but it fits in my 
post TS60000 3A.  I can not get a 60 spoke wheel to fit.

TeriAnn

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Wed Sep 19 11:46:03 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2012 10:46:03 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] lift the dot fastner tr3
In-Reply-To: <1347921161.33588.YahooMailNeo@web120005.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <CAA43NTv13pq9aALoRgS1LbdWh-oRNq5R7_YzY_LL3GP_OCMngA@mail.gmail.com>
	<022901cd9515$19d0f970$0601a8c0@randall>
	<1347919337.28478.YahooMailNeo@web120006.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<CANzE1bEwiGThPxGmoCu-PY+RzQcKLBvj3bwrQbqT666+NOKbzQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<1347921161.33588.YahooMailNeo@web120005.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1348076763.72570.YahooMailNeo@web120004.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

on to the next question.
having never owned a tonneau i have no experience of taking one off or putting one on.
so how have you guys oriented your fasteners?
did you start at the windshield zipper location and have the "lift the dot" stamping facing toward the passenger. work you way around the tonneau in the same way. make the passenger side the mirror image?
im sure one or two have said "i wished id put that on the other way around"
thanks
Frank
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>
Cc: "triumphs at autox.team.net" <triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Monday, September 17, 2012 3:32 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] lift the dot fastner tr3


i have all the studs in place.
but i just had a doh! moment.
moss shows the
clips with different key numbers. if one follows and pays attention one finds
they all have the same part number.
thanks 

On Mon, Sep 17, 2012 at 3:02
PM, Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com> wrote:

looking at the moss catalogs it
would appear that i require multiple different lift the dot fasteners for use
on the tonneau of TS 41366?
>really?
>thanks
>Frank

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Wed Sep 19 12:07:11 2012
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2012 11:07:11 -0700
Subject: [TR] lift the dot fastner tr3
In-Reply-To: <1348076763.72570.YahooMailNeo@web120004.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <CAA43NTv13pq9aALoRgS1LbdWh-oRNq5R7_YzY_LL3GP_OCMngA@mail.gmail.com>
	<022901cd9515$19d0f970$0601a8c0@randall>
	<1347919337.28478.YahooMailNeo@web120006.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<CANzE1bEwiGThPxGmoCu-PY+RzQcKLBvj3bwrQbqT666+NOKbzQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<1347921161.33588.YahooMailNeo@web120005.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<1348076763.72570.YahooMailNeo@web120004.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bGpGEV0nsOPmoLmHj_XH=W6CVAJ0s2xruvmspmMjVysJw@mail.gmail.com>

Frank -

I have always installed with the 'dots' outward -- easier to lift &
unfasten that way.

One exception is if your tonneau has that slit to aid in tucking the
tonneau behind the seat.

That goes something like
this<http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/Tonneau-A.JPG> and
then this <http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/Tonneau-B.JPG>

Geo.
On Wed, Sep 19, 2012 at 10:46 AM, Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com> wrote:

> on to the next question.
> having never owned a tonneau i have no experience of taking one off or
> putting one on.

From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com  Wed Sep 19 12:45:01 2012
From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (Brian Induni)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2012 11:45:01 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4A oil pan
Message-ID: <004101cd9696$e0674ee0$a135eca0$@roadrunner.com>

Hello list,

I have a left over oil pan from a TR4A I did a few years ago - free plus
shipping to anyone who wants it. It looks like it was the recipient of
engine bits raining on it (possible thrown rod?) and the splash guard was
re-welded in place. No holes in the pan and would make a fine sump for a
race car, or if yours is rusted, etc.

Drop me an email at Binduni at gmail.com and let me know. Otherwise, it's going
to the recycle bin. Had it on Triumph Experience but no interest
http://www.triumphexperience.com/phorum/read.php?5,841402,841402#msg-841402
Gasket is gone, but you'll see the pan.

Brian

From agraham at execulink.com  Wed Sep 19 16:00:46 2012
From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2012 18:00:46 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR2 - Tenax fasteners
Message-ID: <505A408E.5060600@execulink.com>

Hello List:
A question about the Tenax fasteners on my '2 project. Moving to the 
more 'fun' stuff and finishing up the interior. Wondering about the 
Tenax pegs. In my disassembly I neglected to separate the longer & 
shorter Tenax pegs. Talking about the wood screw type - 1/2" & 3/4" in 
length.
Do the shorter 1/2" pegs screw into the scuttle capping and the longer 
3/4" screw into the door capping? I'm sure the same application of 
lengths applies to the '3s with the Lift-a-dot pegs. Not sure it matters 
a whole lot, but the factory in their wisdom did supply two lengths and 
trying to figure out what goes where.
Thanks for any help with this one.
Angelo Graham

From keithstewart at execulink.com  Wed Sep 19 16:18:35 2012
From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2012 18:18:35 -0400
Subject: [TR] lift the dot fastner tr3
In-Reply-To: <mailman.11.1348077603.9841.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.11.1348077603.9841.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <4985BC81-9DD7-4153-80D9-0BFB0763CFA6@execulink.com>

On Wed, 19 Sep 2012, at 10:46 AM, Frank Fishert wrote:

>
> on to the next question.
> having never owned a tonneau i have no experience of taking one off or
putting one on.
> so how have you guys oriented your fasteners?
> did you start at the windshield zipper location and have the "lift the dot"
stamping facing toward the passenger. work you way around the tonneau in the
same way. make the passenger side the mirror image?
> im sure one or two have said "i wished id put that on the other way around"
The original tonneau that came with my 62 TR4 had the "dots" across the dash
oriented so that the dots were to the outside of the car (i.e. driver side is
opposite to passenger side). The "dots" down the sides have the dots facing
forward. The "dots" across the rear are similar to those on the dash in that
the dots face toward the outside of the car (again the driver side is opposite
to the passenger side. The idea here is that typically you remove the tonneau
by unsnapping from the front corner toward the centre of the dash, work your
way toward the back and then across the back. Repeat on the other side. Many
top and tonneau installers often have the dot pointing toward the outside of
the material - not because it is a better way to do it, but because the tool
they use only allows the holes to be punched in that direction (the
scissor/pliers type of punch as opposed to the hammer and punch type). I would
think that with the TR3 it would be easier if the dots pointed downward on the
doors so that you can lift vertically to remove them.


Keith R. Stewart
London, Ontario
E-Mail: keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom

From trguy75 at gmail.com  Wed Sep 19 16:59:25 2012
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2012 18:59:25 -0400
Subject: [TR] Part Need
Message-ID: <005401cd96ba$6ba03f80$42e0be80$@gmail.com>

If anyone has an original lucas back up light assembly for the TR4
available, please contact me off list.  Looking to add one on my car.

Thanks,

Jim Henningsen

62 TR4

75 TR6

Ocala FL

From leejohn7 at gmail.com  Wed Sep 19 17:27:57 2012
From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2012 16:27:57 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4, Fuel pump,and Flagstaff
Message-ID: <CAJaD1DNFJYF=6thsG9166FjqvzzRs8ngc0z8q86C3a71qk+bTw@mail.gmail.com>

Hello list

Here we are at 10,000 feet in Leadville, CO, enroute to Triumphest.
Coincidental with changing the jets on the Webers and retuning for the
altitude, the mechanical pump quit. The pin holding the lever in place
backed out, and worse, the lever fell into the crankcase! This happened
while driving to find tools to remove the pump ( I took the "opportunity"
to install an electric pump) , so no immediate damage to anything.
My question: is there a risk in driving with the lever in the oil pan? I
presume it fell to the bottom and is now safely held down in the oil. There
is a baffle in the pan, but I don't remember if it is forward or rear. If
at the rear, could it be a problem as the lever may be lying that much
closer to the crank? Is there something I'm not considering?

Re Flagstaff, can someone there recommend a shop willing to put the car on
the lift, drop the pan, fish out the lever, and reinstall? So I ( and my
wife) can drive stress free in the events?

Many thanks for your help

John Howard

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Wed Sep 19 17:51:29 2012
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2012 16:51:29 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4, Fuel pump,and Flagstaff
In-Reply-To: <CAJaD1DNFJYF=6thsG9166FjqvzzRs8ngc0z8q86C3a71qk+bTw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJaD1DNFJYF=6thsG9166FjqvzzRs8ngc0z8q86C3a71qk+bTw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bGZkHjzwVA05QMg-2nteiMi4EvVX1aq_LUYDumrKaP61g@mail.gmail.com>

On Wed, Sep 19, 2012 at 4:27 PM, Lee&John Howard <leejohn7 at gmail.com> wrote:

> ...the lever fell into the crankcase!... I
> presume it fell to the bottom and is now safely held down in the oil. There
> is a baffle in the pan, but I don't remember if it is forward or rear. If
> at the rear, could it be a problem as the lever may be lying that much
> closer to the crank?
>


>From that recent generous offer of a free oil pan, this link shows what
you're dealing with:

http://www.triumphexperience.com/phorum/read.php?5,841402,841402#msg-841402

Given the size of the lever and recalling how closely the pickup screen
fits thru that opening, I'd be concerned that the lever is laying on top of
the splash guard.

I'd be inclined to drop the pan and get it out.

Geo

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Wed Sep 19 17:54:43 2012
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2012 16:54:43 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4, Fuel pump,and Flagstaff
In-Reply-To: <CAJaD1DNFJYF=6thsG9166FjqvzzRs8ngc0z8q86C3a71qk+bTw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJaD1DNFJYF=6thsG9166FjqvzzRs8ngc0z8q86C3a71qk+bTw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <505A5B43.5070507@gmail.com>

On 9/19/12 4:27 PM, Lee&John Howard wrote:
> Re Flagstaff, can someone there recommend a shop willing to put the car on
> the lift, drop the pan, fish out the lever, and reinstall? So I ( and my
> wife) can drive stress free in the events?
I haven't tried them, but Brock Murphy at European Motor Company says he 
can work on Triumphs
928-214-7113
europeanmotorco at gmail.com

I've had some Land Rover work done at Seven Day auto Service 
(928-774-0808). I've found them to be good and quick.  There is nothing 
special about dropping an oil pan.

Or if you don't mind laying on your back on a cement floor, I have a 
floor jack, jack stands and tools.  But I do not have a spare pan gasket.

If you want you can have gaskets, oil filter or any other parts you 
think you need express mailed to my address.  Then if you plan to have 
the work done at a shop you can drop by and pick the parts up on your 
way to the shop.

TeriAnn
In Flagstaff, AZ.

From cliff_hansen at earthlink.net  Wed Sep 19 19:43:04 2012
From: cliff_hansen at earthlink.net (Cliff Hansen)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2012 19:43:04 -0600
Subject: [TR] Where does the solenoid mount on a TR4A?
Message-ID: <FD74AE42DBF7481FAC57FDA6A0717E1E@Shemp>

Ibm staring at the firewall, solenoid in hand, and Gandalfbs line from a
scene in Moria comes to mind bI have no memory of this place.b

Anyone able to take a quick look and let me know where the starter solenoid
mounts?  Ibm guessing just above the passthrough for the heater hoses, but
somehow that doesnbt look right.

Many thanks,

Cliff

From cliff_hansen at earthlink.net  Wed Sep 19 19:46:49 2012
From: cliff_hansen at earthlink.net (Cliff Hansen)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2012 19:46:49 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR4A - wiring harness grommet
In-Reply-To: <5C790DBDD9034DD5ADC8D2A20E22430C@Shemp>
References: <5C790DBDD9034DD5ADC8D2A20E22430C@Shemp>
Message-ID: <8DD400AD830646489F661C97A8EEFC31@Shemp>

So, the easiest solution to my problem turned out to be to order the correct 
part.

For my 4A, at least, the grommet for the firewall for the main wiring 
harness is TRF part RG1, not RG3 as listed.  Thanks to Bill Beecher for 
suggesting the grommet listed for the TR3 (RG1) which fits perfectly.

Cliff



-----Original Message----- 
From: Cliff Hansen
Sent: Saturday, September 08, 2012 10:05 AM
To: list Triumph
Subject: [TR] TR4A - wiring harness grommet

Guess I'm not getting that wiring harness in today.

This is a dumb issue, but, wondering if anyone else dealt with it.  TRF 
sells
part #RG3 for the large grommet on the RHS of the firewall through which the
wiring harness passes.  This grommet is for a 1 7/8" hole and is the same
part number for TR6.  The hole in my car is 1 3/8".  TRF doesn't list any
other part.  Moss only lists a 1 1/2" grommet for the TR4A and nothing for
the TR6.

Does anyone know either 1) the correct TRF part #; or 2) if the Moss part 
fits
a 4A?

Thanks much,

Cliff

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From darrellw360 at mac.com  Wed Sep 19 19:47:06 2012
From: darrellw360 at mac.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2012 18:47:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] Where does the solenoid mount on a TR4A?
In-Reply-To: <FD74AE42DBF7481FAC57FDA6A0717E1E@Shemp>
References: <FD74AE42DBF7481FAC57FDA6A0717E1E@Shemp>
Message-ID: <00626F7F-2DCC-4FE7-8B8F-AD47180A2742@mac.com>

Hi Cliff,

I believe the correct location is on the bracket that the battery hold down attaches to.

-Darrell

On Sep 19, 2012, at 6:43 PM, Cliff Hansen wrote:

> Ibm staring at the firewall, solenoid in hand, and Gandalfbs line from a
> scene in Moria comes to mind bI have no memory of this place.b
> 
> Anyone able to take a quick look and let me know where the starter solenoid
> mounts?  Ibm guessing just above the passthrough for the heater hoses, but
> somehow that doesnbt look right.
> 
> Many thanks,
> 
> Cliff
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From agraham at execulink.com  Wed Sep 19 20:07:57 2012
From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2012 22:07:57 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 glove box mounting
Message-ID: <505A7A7D.5090705@execulink.com>

Hello List:
Can anyone help with the glove box mounting - especially the rear "L" 
shaped bracket? Again, not sure where this bracket fastens to the under 
dash. I assume the threaded bolt portion extends into the glove box and 
is fastened by a nut and washer (10-32?). Wondering about the end of the 
bracket - with a speed nut on it and where this fastens to the under 
dash area.
Thanks for any help.
Angelo Graham

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Wed Sep 19 21:33:31 2012
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2012 20:33:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Morgan Quadrant Gauge
Message-ID: <1348112011.39904.YahooMailNeo@web180902.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

     This Ebay listing for a Morgan has a jpeg of the Morgan quadrant gauge
with three instruments...

    
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1960-Morgan-4-Roadster-NO-RESERVE-/30078096641
0?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item4607f1520a

     Bill in Tehachapi

From wbeech at flash.net  Thu Sep 20 00:05:46 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2012 01:05:46 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR2 - Tenax/Lift the dot pegs
In-Reply-To: <505A408E.5060600@execulink.com>
References: <505A408E.5060600@execulink.com>
Message-ID: <84353B255B3B426AB1F9F82496949071@bboffice>

The 3/4" screw goes across the dash as you are going through the capping as
well as the scuttle, whereas on the door use the 1/2" because you are only
going through the metal directly into the wood rail. 

Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow"
M.Andretti




-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Angelo Graham
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2012 5:01 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR2 - Tenax fasteners

Hello List:
A question about the Tenax fasteners on my '2 project. Moving to the more
'fun' stuff and finishing up the interior. Wondering about the Tenax pegs.
In my disassembly I neglected to separate the longer & shorter Tenax pegs.
Talking about the wood screw type - 1/2" & 3/4" in length.
Do the shorter 1/2" pegs screw into the scuttle capping and the longer 3/4"
screw into the door capping? I'm sure the same application of lengths
applies to the '3s with the Lift-a-dot pegs. Not sure it matters a whole
lot, but the factory in their wisdom did supply two lengths and trying to
figure out what goes where.
Thanks for any help with this one.
Angelo Graham

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From Dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Sep 20 05:32:26 2012
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2012 07:32:26 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 glove box mounting
Message-ID: <2f193.65f97719.3d8c58c9@cs.com>

I used that press-stud to mount the bracket to the dash support.  There is 
a small hole in the box for the screw that attaches the box to the bracket.  
A U-style clip on nut eliminates the need of trying to feed a nut on the 
blind side of the box.

Dave

In a message dated 9/19/2012 9:07:59 PM Central Daylight Time, 
agraham at execulink.com writes: 
> Hello List:
> Can anyone help with the glove box mounting - especially the rear "L" 
> shaped bracket? Again, not sure where this bracket fastens to the under 
> dash. I assume the threaded bolt portion extends into the glove box and 
> is fastened by a nut and washer (10-32?). Wondering about the end of the 
> bracket - with a speed nut on it and where this fastens to the under 
> dash area.
> Thanks for any help.

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Sep 20 05:44:43 2012
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2012 07:44:43 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Morgan Quadrant Gauge
Message-ID: <2f4f0.7bf3e2c5.3d8c5baa@cs.com>

Well, that's obvious, it got a fuel gauge, an oil pressure gauge, an 
ammeter and a fuel gauge.  That's four.

I guess they couldn't call it a Trident gauge without running into problems 
with Maserati.

Dave

In a message dated 9/19/2012 10:33:40 PM Central Daylight Time, 
wsb1960tr3a at att.net writes: 
>      This Ebay listing for a Morgan has a jpeg of the Morgan quadrant 
> gauge
> with three instruments...
> 
>     
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1960-Morgan-4-Roadster-NO-RESERVE-/300780966
> 41
> 0?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item4607f1520a

From JPayne at ThorCon.net  Thu Sep 20 08:36:06 2012
From: JPayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne)
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2012 14:36:06 +0000
Subject: [TR] Morgan Quadrant Gauge
In-Reply-To: <1348112011.39904.YahooMailNeo@web180902.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1348112011.39904.YahooMailNeo@web180902.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <5891B364A7C3594B9466304B59E65B1C45D06D4E@ex1mbx01.onthenetoffice.com>

Morgan "Quadrant" Gauges have 4 instruments.  Oil Pressure, Fuel Level, Water
Temp and Amperage.  These Gauges were installed in  the TR powered "+4"
sportscars.  Of which I own 2, a 1960 Roadster and a 1961 Drop head Coupe.

The gauge shown in the dash of the ebay car is not a "Quadrant" gauge, and the
car is not a "+4".  Rather it is a ford powered "4-4" which was and is to this
day,  the "Entry level" Morgan sports car.

Following is a link to the catalog for "Morgan Spares" in NY for the +4
instrument panel.  Also following is a link to the 4-4 instrument panel.


http://www.morgan-spares.com/images/parts_book_graphics/combined/dashpanel_19
56-60_gs.jpg

http://www.morgan-spares.com/images/parts_book_graphics/4_4graphics/dash.gif

Jonas Payne
PBR
Cell:   (702) 358-5084

From leejohn7 at gmail.com  Thu Sep 20 09:22:33 2012
From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard)
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2012 08:22:33 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4, Fuel pump,and Flagstaff
In-Reply-To: <CANzE1bGZkHjzwVA05QMg-2nteiMi4EvVX1aq_LUYDumrKaP61g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJaD1DNFJYF=6thsG9166FjqvzzRs8ngc0z8q86C3a71qk+bTw@mail.gmail.com>
	<CANzE1bGZkHjzwVA05QMg-2nteiMi4EvVX1aq_LUYDumrKaP61g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAJaD1DN11ej6KJomLBO6NyQ6P7tcbZLgsZyaysrAiaU5-56YCg@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks, George, for the picture. I didn't remember where the splash guard
ran.. Yep, Gotta drop the pan.
John


On Wed, Sep 19, 2012 at 4:51 PM, Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com> wrote:

> On Wed, Sep 19, 2012 at 4:27 PM, Lee&John Howard <leejohn7 at gmail.com>wrote:
>
>> ...the lever fell into the crankcase!... I
>>
>> presume it fell to the bottom and is now safely held down in the oil.
>> There
>> is a baffle in the pan, but I don't remember if it is forward or rear. If
>> at the rear, could it be a problem as the lever may be lying that much
>> closer to the crank?
>>
>>
>
> From that recent generous offer of a free oil pan, this link shows what
> you're dealing with:
>
> http://www.triumphexperience.com/phorum/read.php?5,841402,841402#msg-841402
>
> Given the size of the lever and recalling how closely the pickup screen
> fits thru that opening, I'd be concerned that the lever is laying on top of
> the splash guard.
>
> I'd be inclined to drop the pan and get it out.
>
> Geo

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Thu Sep 20 09:35:29 2012
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2012 08:35:29 -0700
Subject: [TR] Triumphest 2012 weather
Message-ID: <505B37C1.5010401@gmail.com>

I just looked at the weather prediction for the end of the month and 
thought I'd pass it on for people planning to be at Triumphest. Pretty 
much all this month the weather has been highs in the mid to high70's 
with lows in the mid 40's but there appears to be some cooler fall 
weather coming in for Triumphest.

Friday, Sept 28 prediction is currently clear with a high of 68 degrees 
and a low of 36 degrees.  Saturday, the 29th prediction is clear with a 
high of 63 degrees and a low of 39 degrees.

So mornings will be chilly and for those of you from hot climates the 
afternoon might be chilly to you as well.  So be sure to pack 
accordingly.  Current cheap gas is a tad over $3.70/gal for regular.  
Best places for cheap gas is SAMs club, Safeway and Frys food stores gas 
stations and the Mavrick gas station if you are coming into town from 
the West and take the route 66 exit from I40 into Flagstaff. If you are 
coming in from the West there is a gas station about 10 miles East of 
the CA border on I40 where you can save a lot of $$ over the needles 
stations.

And if you have extra time built in to your trip don't forget you are 
only about a half hour away from Wupatki National Monument and about 75 
miles from Grand Canyon South Rim and about 3-1/2 hours from Monument 
Valley.

TeriAnn

From leejohn7 at gmail.com  Thu Sep 20 09:41:08 2012
From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard)
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2012 08:41:08 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4, Fuel pump,and Flagstaff
In-Reply-To: <505A5B43.5070507@gmail.com>
References: <CAJaD1DNFJYF=6thsG9166FjqvzzRs8ngc0z8q86C3a71qk+bTw@mail.gmail.com>
	<505A5B43.5070507@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAJaD1DPR5Pk5Jn5X0AwD5KgZg1AnW30g-V9L1FRNN5vdK9Nqcg@mail.gmail.com>

TeriAnn - Thank you for that information. I've talked to Seven Day Auto -
the guy once had a Healy - so understands the problem. He figures way under
an hour, which is what it would take even me.  I'll have Moss ship a gasket
directly, and have an appointment there on Monday.
See you in Flagstaff!
John

On Wed, Sep 19, 2012 at 4:54 PM, TeriAnn J. Wakeman <tjwakeman at gmail.com>wrote:

> On 9/19/12 4:27 PM, Lee&John Howard wrote:
>
>> Re Flagstaff, can someone there recommend a shop willing to put the car on
>> the lift, drop the pan, fish out the lever, and reinstall? So I ( and my
>> wife) can drive stress free in the events?
>>
> I haven't tried them, but Brock Murphy at European Motor Company says he
> can work on Triumphs
> 928-214-7113
> europeanmotorco at gmail.com
>
> I've had some Land Rover work done at Seven Day auto Service (928-774-0808).
> I've found them to be good and quick.  There is nothing special about
> dropping an oil pan.
>
> Or if you don't mind laying on your back on a cement floor, I have a floor
> jack, jack stands and tools.  But I do not have a spare pan gasket.
>
> If you want you can have gaskets, oil filter or any other parts you think
> you need express mailed to my address.  Then if you plan to have the work
> done at a shop you can drop by and pick the parts up on your way to the
> shop.
>
> TeriAnn
> In Flagstaff, AZ.
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/triumphs/leejohn7@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/leejohn7 at gmail.com>

From dctr6 at optonline.net  Thu Sep 20 09:55:36 2012
From: dctr6 at optonline.net (Dennis Culligan)
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2012 11:55:36 -0400
Subject: [TR]  TR4, Fuel pump,and Flagstaff
Message-ID: <000601cd9748$605c3eb0$2114bc10$@net>

"Lee&John Howard" wrote:

>snip

> the lever fell into the crankcase! 

 

I don't know if the oil pans on the TR4 and TR6 are at all alike but when
the fuel pump lever broke off and dropped into the pan on my TR6 at the VTR
event in Rockford, IL (MANY years ago), while preparing to put the car up on
ramps and drop the pan, someone (I think it was one R. John Lye) suggested
getting a magnet on a stick and poking around through the drain hole.  We
did that and the lever came right out! No pan drop, no new gasket, no
problem. YMMV.

Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U  

From leejohn7 at gmail.com  Thu Sep 20 10:03:39 2012
From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard)
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2012 09:03:39 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4, Fuel pump,and Flagstaff
In-Reply-To: <000601cd9748$605c3eb0$2114bc10$@net>
References: <000601cd9748$605c3eb0$2114bc10$@net>
Message-ID: <CAJaD1DPoNr_+3zD8zMufCkXWZW6jVvevH9=Nw12VtvnsKFVdOQ@mail.gmail.com>

Actually, I've tried that with no luck. I imagine the lever moved around as
I drove along a rough road to get the tools.
Thanks for the tip
John

On Thu, Sep 20, 2012 at 8:55 AM, Dennis Culligan <dctr6 at optonline.net>wrote:

> "Lee&John Howard" wrote:****
>
> >snip****
>
> > the lever fell into the crankcase! ****
>
> ** **
>
> I dont know if the oil pans on the TR4 and TR6 are at all alike but when
> the fuel pump lever broke off and dropped into the pan on my TR6 at the VTR
> event in Rockford, IL (MANY years ago), while preparing to put the car up
> on ramps and drop the pan, someone (I think it was one R. John Lye)
> suggested getting a magnet on a stick and poking around through the drain
> hole.  We did that and the lever came right out! No pan drop, no new
> gasket, no problem. YMMV.****
>
> Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U  ****
>
>  ****

From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net  Thu Sep 20 17:55:11 2012
From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net)
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2012 16:55:11 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
Subject: [TR] The British Fall Classic - Oct 21st, 2012 in Morgan Hill, CA.
Message-ID: <26121993.1348185312024.JavaMail.root@mswamui-chipeau.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

/local/mailman/lynxXXXX2GtRan: Permission denied

From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net  Thu Sep 20 18:07:35 2012
From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net)
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2012 17:07:35 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
Subject: [TR] San Diego British Car Day Sunday, 10/7/12
Message-ID: <15651761.1348186055175.JavaMail.root@mswamui-chipeau.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

/local/mailman/lynxXXXXLQMHqB: Permission denied

From pryner at verizon.net  Fri Sep 21 08:19:43 2012
From: pryner at verizon.net (Peter Ryner)
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2012 10:19:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] Triumph repair operation time guide - aka flat rate manual
In-Reply-To: <2a1ed.4e50c485.3d7c0566@aol.com>
References: <2a1ed.4e50c485.3d7c0566@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BA617ED2C19845B09161EC51231842A5@PetePC>

I remember an email that contained a link to the TR schedule of repair 
operation times.  I thought I saved the link, but now can't find it.  My 
printer was down so I didn't get a chance to print it.  Can someone please 
repost the link?
TIA
Pete
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <McGaheyRx at aol.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 07, 2012 10:20 PM
Subject: [TR] Triumph repair operation time guide - aka flat rate manual


> This question is, I think, in the same vein with those about the service
> bulletins.
>
> I recently snagged a  "1977 TR7  Repair Operation Times"  booklet - an
> original British Leyland publication intended to serve as a flat  rate 
> time
> guide for dealer service departments - interesting - IMHO  anyway
>
> Does anybody have these for other models? TR6? GT6? TR8?
> are they posted online anywhere?
>
> Cheers,
> Jack Mc
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pryner at verizon.net 

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Fri Sep 21 08:40:55 2012
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2012 07:40:55 -0700
Subject: [TR] Triumph repair operation time guide - aka flat rate manual
In-Reply-To: <BA617ED2C19845B09161EC51231842A5@PetePC>
References: <2a1ed.4e50c485.3d7c0566@aol.com>
	<BA617ED2C19845B09161EC51231842A5@PetePC>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bG7k-=rN6_EU=UqSt1P+z21VgMBxwvVBeMx69FxPcDeng@mail.gmail.com>

Here from my folder entitled 'The Best of Randall':

Stag: http://tinyurl.com/9t5jm32

TR3: http://tinyurl.com/98tq3sz


Seriously, I really have such a folder.

Geo


On Fri, Sep 21, 2012 at 7:19 AM, Peter Ryner <pryner at verizon.net> wrote:

> I remember an email that contained a link to the TR schedule of repair
> operation times.  I thought I saved the link, but now can't find it.  My
> printer was down so I didn't get a chance to print it.  Can someone please
> repost the link?
> TIA
> Pete

From pryner at verizon.net  Fri Sep 21 09:02:24 2012
From: pryner at verizon.net (Peter Ryner)
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2012 11:02:24 -0400
Subject: [TR] Triumph repair operation time guide - aka flat rate manual
In-Reply-To: <CANzE1bG7k-=rN6_EU=UqSt1P+z21VgMBxwvVBeMx69FxPcDeng@mail.gmail.com>
References: <2a1ed.4e50c485.3d7c0566@aol.com>
	<BA617ED2C19845B09161EC51231842A5@PetePC>
	<CANzE1bG7k-=rN6_EU=UqSt1P+z21VgMBxwvVBeMx69FxPcDeng@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <34AD487372454E799A18DF8D009408D4@PetePC>

Thanks Geo and Bill.  Got it!!
Pete
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Geo Hahn
  To: Peter Ryner
  Cc: Triumphs
  Sent: Friday, September 21, 2012 10:40 AM
  Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph repair operation time guide - aka flat rate
manual


  Here from my folder entitled 'The Best of Randall':


  Stag: http://tinyurl.com/9t5jm32

  TR3: http://tinyurl.com/98tq3sz


  Seriously, I really have such a folder.

  Geo



  On Fri, Sep 21, 2012 at 7:19 AM, Peter Ryner <pryner at verizon.net> wrote:

    I remember an email that contained a link to the TR schedule of repair
operation times.  I thought I saved the link, but now can't find it.  My
printer was down so I didn't get a chance to print it.  Can someone please
repost the link?
    TIA
    Pete

From alansalvy at gmail.com  Fri Sep 21 16:02:24 2012
From: alansalvy at gmail.com (alan salvatore)
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2012 18:02:24 -0400
Subject: [TR] Triumph repair operation time guide - aka flat rate manual
In-Reply-To: <BA617ED2C19845B09161EC51231842A5@PetePC>
References: <2a1ed.4e50c485.3d7c0566@aol.com>
	<BA617ED2C19845B09161EC51231842A5@PetePC>
Message-ID: <CAAAEehRfZiZDeGpM7vWkT-1h=nixvr-m6rvNvjt6P+R8eVOg=Q@mail.gmail.com>

The Roadster Factory sells the booklet for the TR6.

Al





On Fri, Sep 21, 2012 at 10:19 AM, Peter Ryner <pryner at verizon.net> wrote:

> I remember an email that contained a link to the TR schedule of repair
> operation times.  I thought I saved the link, but now can't find it.  My
> printer was down so I didn't get a chance to print it.  Can someone please
> repost the link?
> TIA
> Pete
> ----- Original Message ----- From: <McGaheyRx at aol.com>
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, September 07, 2012 10:20 PM
> Subject: [TR] Triumph repair operation time guide - aka flat rate manual
>
>
> This question is, I think, in the same vein with those about the service
>> bulletins.
>>
>> I recently snagged a  "1977 TR7  Repair Operation Times"  booklet - an
>> original British Leyland publication intended to serve as a flat  rate
>> time
>> guide for dealer service departments - interesting - IMHO  anyway
>>
>> Does anybody have these for other models? TR6? GT6? TR8?
>> are they posted online anywhere?
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Jack Mc
>>
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
>> options/triumphs/pryner@**verizon.net<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pryner at verizon.net>
>>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/triumphs/alansalvy@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/alansalvy at gmail.com>

From McGaheyRx at aol.com  Fri Sep 21 19:30:15 2012
From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (Jack Mc)
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2012 21:30:15 -0400
Subject: [TR] Triumph repair operation time guide - aka flat rate manual
In-Reply-To: <CAAAEehRfZiZDeGpM7vWkT-1h=nixvr-m6rvNvjt6P+R8eVOg=Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <2a1ed.4e50c485.3d7c0566@aol.com>
	<BA617ED2C19845B09161EC51231842A5@PetePC>
	<CAAAEehRfZiZDeGpM7vWkT-1h=nixvr-m6rvNvjt6P+R8eVOg=Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <F720CFAD-DD5C-45CE-B9C4-A60B07C32342@aol.com>

I can't find it on the TRF web site - do you know how they have it listed?

Cheers
Jack Mc

Sent from my iPad

On Sep 21, 2012, at 6:02 PM, alan salvatore <alansalvy at gmail.com> wrote:

> The Roadster Factory sells the booklet for the TR6.
>
> Al
>
>
>
>
>
> On Fri, Sep 21, 2012 at 10:19 AM, Peter Ryner <pryner at verizon.net> wrote:
>
>> I remember an email that contained a link to the TR schedule of repair
>> operation times.  I thought I saved the link, but now can't find it.  My
>> printer was down so I didn't get a chance to print it.  Can someone please
>> repost the link?
>> TIA
>> Pete
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: <McGaheyRx at aol.com>
>> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Friday, September 07, 2012 10:20 PM
>> Subject: [TR] Triumph repair operation time guide - aka flat rate manual
>>
>>
>> This question is, I think, in the same vein with those about the service
>>> bulletins.
>>>
>>> I recently snagged a  "1977 TR7  Repair Operation Times"  booklet - an
>>> original British Leyland publication intended to serve as a flat  rate
>>> time
>>> guide for dealer service departments - interesting - IMHO  anyway
>>>
>>> Does anybody have these for other models? TR6? GT6? TR8?
>>> are they posted online anywhere?
>>>
>>> Cheers,
>>> Jack Mc
>>>
>>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>>
>>> Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
>>>
options/triumphs/pryner@**verizon.net<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/t
riumphs/pryner at verizon.net>
>>>
>>
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
>>
options/triumphs/alansalvy@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/
triumphs/alansalvy at gmail.com>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mcgaheyrx at aol.com

From alansalvy at gmail.com  Fri Sep 21 19:46:52 2012
From: alansalvy at gmail.com (alan salvatore)
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2012 21:46:52 -0400
Subject: [TR] Triumph repair operation time guide - aka flat rate manual
In-Reply-To: <F720CFAD-DD5C-45CE-B9C4-A60B07C32342@aol.com>
References: <2a1ed.4e50c485.3d7c0566@aol.com>
	<BA617ED2C19845B09161EC51231842A5@PetePC>
	<CAAAEehRfZiZDeGpM7vWkT-1h=nixvr-m6rvNvjt6P+R8eVOg=Q@mail.gmail.com>
	<F720CFAD-DD5C-45CE-B9C4-A60B07C32342@aol.com>
Message-ID: <CAAAEehSnRGbg8bY4pvtk0Z351rDp_aNVx-80Rkq6XgdZ_e+JrQ@mail.gmail.com>

Its listed in TR6 Assembly Manual, Volume 1, page one. ( Blue Catalog)

TRF

HAC52E           TR6 REPAIR OPERATION TIMES    $3.52

Cheers,

Al
 AA17
*HAC52E* <javascript:
popcart('https://secure.zeni.net/trf/add_confirm.php?new=HAC52E',740,210,'HAC52E','1')>
*TR6 Repair Operation Times.*
28 pages, self-cover.
A/R
Published by British Leyland, 1976.  Covers the
times allotted to dealer mechanics for completing

 AA17
*HAC52E* <javascript:
popcart('https://secure.zeni.net/trf/add_confirm.php?new=HAC52E',740,210,'HAC52E','1')>
*TR6 Repair Operation Times.*
28 pages, self-cover.
A/R
Published by British Leyland, 1976.  Covers the
times allotted to dealer mechanics for completing

On Fri, Sep 21, 2012 at 9:30 PM, Jack Mc <McGaheyRx at aol.com> wrote:

> I can't find it on the TRF web site - do you know how they have it listed?
>
> Cheers
> Jack Mc
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Sep 21, 2012, at 6:02 PM, alan salvatore <alansalvy at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > The Roadster Factory sells the booklet for the TR6.
> >
> > Al
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > On Fri, Sep 21, 2012 at 10:19 AM, Peter Ryner <pryner at verizon.net>
> wrote:
> >
> >> I remember an email that contained a link to the TR schedule of repair
> >> operation times.  I thought I saved the link, but now can't find it.  My
> >> printer was down so I didn't get a chance to print it.  Can someone
> please
> >> repost the link?
> >> TIA
> >> Pete
> >> ----- Original Message ----- From: <McGaheyRx at aol.com>
> >> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> >> Sent: Friday, September 07, 2012 10:20 PM
> >> Subject: [TR] Triumph repair operation time guide - aka flat rate manual
> >>
> >>
> >> This question is, I think, in the same vein with those about the service
> >>> bulletins.
> >>>
> >>> I recently snagged a  "1977 TR7  Repair Operation Times"  booklet - an
> >>> original British Leyland publication intended to serve as a flat  rate
> >>> time
> >>> guide for dealer service departments - interesting - IMHO  anyway
> >>>
> >>> Does anybody have these for other models? TR6? GT6? TR8?
> >>> are they posted online anywhere?
> >>>
> >>> Cheers,
> >>> Jack Mc
> >>>
> >>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> >>>
> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<
> http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> >>> options/triumphs/pryner@**verizon.net<
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pryner at verizon.net>
> >>>
> >>
> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> >>
> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<
> http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> >> options/triumphs/alansalvy@**gmail.com<
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/alansalvy at gmail.com>
> >
> > ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mcgaheyrx at aol.com

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Sat Sep 22 09:25:49 2012
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2012 08:25:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Best Anti-Rust Coolant
Message-ID: <1348327549.79204.YahooMailNeo@web180905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

     I need to add/change the coolant in my  TR3. I remember years ago I used
something that I bought at a Toyota dealer ISTR. It may have been called
"No-Rosian" or something like that. What are the best coolants to use in a TR
to minimize rust build-up in the block? I don't want to use Prestone or
Autozone cheapie if there is something good out there.
     TIA,

     Bill in
Tehachapi   

From darrellw360 at mac.com  Sat Sep 22 09:48:56 2012
From: darrellw360 at mac.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2012 08:48:56 -0700
Subject: [TR] Best Anti-Rust Coolant
In-Reply-To: <1348327549.79204.YahooMailNeo@web180905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1348327549.79204.YahooMailNeo@web180905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8F03BDBC-5707-4FF4-BEA4-67256012D0EE@mac.com>

Hi Bill,

Fred Thomas was an advocate of No-Rosion:

http://www.no-rosion.com

I've used it in my TR4A for several years, and it seems to be doing the job.

-Darrell

-- 
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA

From spitlist at cox.net  Sat Sep 22 11:42:45 2012
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2012 10:42:45 -0700
Subject: [TR] VTR autocross results archives
Message-ID: <35C3C53452604854BF0D4327F5CCF02A@Vista>

Does anyone know if there is an archive of the results of VTR autocrosses
through the years?  I am particularly interested in the 2001 held in
Breckinridge, CO.

 

Thanks,

Joe

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Sep 22 11:53:15 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2012 10:53:15 -0700
Subject: [TR] Best Anti-Rust Coolant
In-Reply-To: <8F03BDBC-5707-4FF4-BEA4-67256012D0EE@mac.com>
References: <1348327549.79204.YahooMailNeo@web180905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<8F03BDBC-5707-4FF4-BEA4-67256012D0EE@mac.com>
Message-ID: <005a01cd98eb$24729d00$0601a8c0@randall>

> Fred Thomas was an advocate of No-Rosion:
> 
> http://www.no-rosion.com
> 
> I've used it in my TR4A for several years, and it seems to be 
> doing the job.

It does seem to work, if you follow their maintenance schedule.  Personally,
I prefer Zerex G-05 or Prestone "Extended Life" that you only have to mess
with every 5 years instead of every year.

Hopefully, I've finally built a cooling system in my TR that will go that
long without attention.

-- Randall  

From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Sat Sep 22 12:14:00 2012
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2012 14:14:00 -0400
Subject: [TR] Best Anti-Rust Coolant
In-Reply-To: <005a01cd98eb$24729d00$0601a8c0@randall>
References: <1348327549.79204.YahooMailNeo@web180905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<8F03BDBC-5707-4FF4-BEA4-67256012D0EE@mac.com>
	<005a01cd98eb$24729d00$0601a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <CAPK7CFCtr-Ykc1f8tZ00QwPBaJB=rCTHZkRA1+RhhR7Yanv9ZQ@mail.gmail.com>

My mechanics for my 2001 Tacoma and 2008 RX350 swear by the Toyota red
coolant for Toyotas -- they think it lasts longer, protects parts better,
and don't use the standard brands they'll use anywhere else in a Toyota.  A
voice of experience -- the guys at Len's Automotive here in STL are the
best I've ever had work on a car.

The September 2012 issue of TR Action has a full page ad for Evans
waterless engine coolants.
in the UK link from the ad: http://wwwe.evanscoolants.co.uk/products.html
and the US--based home office here:
http://www.evanscooling.com/about-us/company-background/

The FAQ on the site is quite informative, eh?

Q. What is Evans Waterless Coolant made of?

A. Evans Waterless Coolants are patented synthetic non-toxic liquids
blended with a non-aqueous proprietary inhibitor package.

Jay Leno talks about it here:
http://www.jaylenosgarage.com/extras/car-care/waterless-engine-coolant/index.
shtml

The 0 psi boiling point is 3750 F (1900 C).  They're promoted as "lifetime"
cooling system fluids.

I guess I'm kind of out of touch these days -- I don't know this company's
products.  Advanced racing cars (like F1) don't use water in their cooling
systems as far as I know.  And a chemist, this makes perfect sense.  Water
is an incredibly aggressive solvent -- because we're water-based we don't
really think about it -- even though it does have good heat-carrying
capacity.  Not at all surprising that non-aqueous fluid heat transfer
agents would be available.

Anyone have any experience?

Don
1962 TR3B TSF202L



On Sat, Sep 22, 2012 at 1:53 PM, Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

> > Fred Thomas was an advocate of No-Rosion:
> >
> > http://www.no-rosion.com
> >
> > I've used it in my TR4A for several years, and it seems to be
> > doing the job.
>
> It does seem to work, if you follow their maintenance schedule.
>  Personally,
> I prefer Zerex G-05 or Prestone "Extended Life" that you only have to mess
> with every 5 years instead of every year.
>
> Hopefully, I've finally built a cooling system in my TR that will go that
> long without attention.
>
> -- Randall
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com

From spook01 at comcast.net  Sat Sep 22 13:01:13 2012
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2012 14:01:13 -0500
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Best_Anti-Rust_Coolant?=
Message-ID: <mailman.16.1348340595.3155.triumphs@autox.team.net>

I've used the Evans.  It works well, but use the thinner "racing" coolant.  The thicker type works well, but runs ten degrees warmer for some reason.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Don Hiscock" <don.hiscock at gmail.com>
To: "Randall" <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>
Cc: "Triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Best Anti-Rust Coolant
Date: Sat, Sep 22, 2012 13:14


My mechanics for my 2001 Tacoma and 2008 RX350 swear by the Toyota red
coolant for Toyotas -- they think it lasts longer, protects parts better,
and don't use the standard brands they'll use anywhere else in a Toyota.  A
voice of experience -- the guys at Len's Automotive here in STL are the
best I've ever had work on a car.

The September 2012 issue of TR Action has a full page ad for Evans
waterless engine coolants.
in the UK link from the ad: http://wwwe.evanscoolants.co.uk/products.html
and the US--based home office here:
http://www.evanscooling.com/about-us/company-background/

The FAQ on the site is quite informative, eh?

Q. What is Evans Waterless Coolant made of?

A. Evans Waterless Coolants are patented synthetic non-toxic liquids
blended with a non-aqueous proprietary inhibitor package.

Jay Leno talks about it here:
http://www.jaylenosgarage.com/extras/car-care/waterless-engine-coolant/index.
shtml

The 0 psi boiling point is 3750 F (1900 C).  They're promoted as "lifetime"
cooling system fluids.

I guess I'm kind of out of touch these days -- I don't know this company's
products.  Advanced racing cars (like F1) don't use water in their cooling
systems as far as I know.  And a chemist, this makes perfect sense.  Water
is an incredibly aggressive solvent -- because we're water-based we don't
really think about it -- even though it does have good heat-carrying
capacity.  Not at all surprising that non-aqueous fluid heat transfer
agents would be available.

Anyone have any experience?

Don
1962 TR3B TSF202L



On Sat, Sep 22, 2012 at 1:53 PM, Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

> > Fred Thomas was an advocate of No-Rosion:
> >
> > http://www.no-rosion.com
> >
> > I've used it in my TR4A for several years, and it seems to be
> > doing the job.
>
> It does seem to work, if you follow their maintenance schedule.
>  Personally,
> I prefer Zerex G-05 or Prestone "Extended Life" that you only have to mess
> with every 5 years instead of every year.
>
> Hopefully, I've finally built a cooling system in my TR that will go that
> long without attention.
>
> -- Randall
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Sep 22 13:13:54 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2012 12:13:54 -0700
Subject: [TR] Best Anti-Rust Coolant
In-Reply-To: <CAPK7CFCtr-Ykc1f8tZ00QwPBaJB=rCTHZkRA1+RhhR7Yanv9ZQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1348327549.79204.YahooMailNeo@web180905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<8F03BDBC-5707-4FF4-BEA4-67256012D0EE@mac.com>
	<005a01cd98eb$24729d00$0601a8c0@randall>
	<CAPK7CFCtr-Ykc1f8tZ00QwPBaJB=rCTHZkRA1+RhhR7Yanv9ZQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <006701cd98f6$68e00120$0601a8c0@randall>

> Q. What is Evans Waterless Coolant made of?
> 
> A. Evans Waterless Coolants are patented synthetic non-toxic 
> liquids blended with a non-aqueous proprietary inhibitor package.

ISTR that, if you poke around on their site a bit, there are instructions on
how to upgrade your cooling system to work with their coolant.  Higher
viscosity means less flow (all other things being equal), and lower heat
capacity means less heat transfer for a given flow.  The higher boiling
point may compensate for that in most cases, but who wants to run around
with the temperature gauge on the peg?

My only experiment with waterless coolant was many years ago, with a TR that
had persistent overheating problems.  Running pure ethylene glycol (Evans is
supposedly a ethylene/propylene mix), the engine did not boil over (and the
temp gauge was already ruined).  But the experiment ended in disaster when
the true reason for the persistent overheating became apparent.  The out of
control EGT caused an exhaust valve stem to burn through, and the valve head
wound up in the crankcase along with most of the liner.

I also believe that running too high a proportion of EG was a contributing
factor to my Stag overheating and blowing a head gasket on the way home from
VTR 2005.

-- Randall  

From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Sat Sep 22 13:54:50 2012
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2012 15:54:50 -0400
Subject: [TR] Best Anti-Rust Coolant
In-Reply-To: <006701cd98f6$68e00120$0601a8c0@randall>
References: <1348327549.79204.YahooMailNeo@web180905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<8F03BDBC-5707-4FF4-BEA4-67256012D0EE@mac.com>
	<005a01cd98eb$24729d00$0601a8c0@randall>
	<CAPK7CFCtr-Ykc1f8tZ00QwPBaJB=rCTHZkRA1+RhhR7Yanv9ZQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<006701cd98f6$68e00120$0601a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <CAPK7CFBUmS=R-Y1h3r70Y9fOSyyPgRY=_P1AUkEx_bKUngAc1A@mail.gmail.com>

"The 0 psi boiling point is 3750 F (1900 C)."... Sorry for the confusion in
the [ALT + 0176] degrees symbol not mapping over to the simple text of
team.net.  It should read 375-degrees F and 190-degrees C, of course.

The heat capacity of water is about 4.2 J/cubic cm-K-degree.  Propylene
glycol is about 2.5, ethylene glycol about 2.4.  Densities are less than 5%
different, so on a volumetric basis water can carry over 60% greater heat.
 This is why we normally don't run 100% antifreeze in our systems, and
probably one of the reasons our old TRs were originally instructed to run
with "clean rain water" unless it was frosty.  More antifreeze isn't better.

So what's really different from the waterless coolants and running 100%
regular antifreeze?  Propylene vs ethylene glycol?  That doesn't seem like
much...

Don



On Sat, Sep 22, 2012 at 3:13 PM, Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

> > Q. What is Evans Waterless Coolant made of?
> >
> > A. Evans Waterless Coolants are patented synthetic non-toxic
> > liquids blended with a non-aqueous proprietary inhibitor package.
>
> ISTR that, if you poke around on their site a bit, there are instructions
> on
> how to upgrade your cooling system to work with their coolant.  Higher
> viscosity means less flow (all other things being equal), and lower heat
> capacity means less heat transfer for a given flow.  The higher boiling
> point may compensate for that in most cases, but who wants to run around
> with the temperature gauge on the peg?
>
> My only experiment with waterless coolant was many years ago, with a TR
> that
> had persistent overheating problems.  Running pure ethylene glycol (Evans
> is
> supposedly a ethylene/propylene mix), the engine did not boil over (and the
> temp gauge was already ruined).  But the experiment ended in disaster when
> the true reason for the persistent overheating became apparent.  The out of
> control EGT caused an exhaust valve stem to burn through, and the valve
> head
> wound up in the crankcase along with most of the liner.
>
> I also believe that running too high a proportion of EG was a contributing
> factor to my Stag overheating and blowing a head gasket on the way home
> from
> VTR 2005.
>
> -- Randall
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Sat Sep 22 14:52:07 2012
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2012 13:52:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Web Searching
Message-ID: <1348347127.61804.YahooMailNeo@web180903.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

     Last year I was using a website called jaxed.com to search all craiglists
simultaneously looking for various things, ususally related to TR's, Morgans
and Lotus Elan +2's and Elises. Craigslist sued Jaxed and got them to not use
craigslist in their searches. I quit using them. Dang! It worked good. I've
tried other services including searchtempest, allofcraigs and statewidelist.
None of them work very well compared to Jaxed. Does anyone else have a good
way to search Craigslist for car stuff?
     The jaxed website explains their
lawsuit:

    http://www.jaxed.com/cgi-bin/home.cgi

     Jaxed was a good
website. If you wanted to bring up most anything it showed you that only.
Clear and simple.

     Bill in Tehachapi

From terryrs at comcast.net  Sat Sep 22 15:11:12 2012
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2012 21:11:12 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Best Anti-Rust Coolant
In-Reply-To: <CAPK7CFBUmS=R-Y1h3r70Y9fOSyyPgRY=_P1AUkEx_bKUngAc1A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <115235021.404026.1348348272613.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Seems to be a lot of conversation here about alternative coolants.  I don't know.  I've used Prestone 50/50 for years, stripped down engines with a hundred thousand miles on them, and have seen no sign of corrosion.  Not sure but that this is all really much ado about nothing.

From dmericas at austin.rr.com  Sat Sep 22 15:43:27 2012
From: dmericas at austin.rr.com (dmericas at austin.rr.com)
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2012 21:43:27 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR4 parts needed
Message-ID: <20120922214327.YEC5L.226739.root@hrndva-web02-z01>

Thanks to some incredible stupidity, I need two parts for my TR4 that appear to be unobtainable through the regular channels.  I'm hoping the list can help me connect with a source.

1) Frame bracket that protects the bottom of the radiator.  This bolts between the forward ends of the two main frame rails.

2) Yellow 7-blade fan (or a fan that has the same bolt pattern and will fit this application).  I know I can convert to an electric, but I'm happy with a plastic mechanical fan if I can find one.

Contact me directly at dmericas at austin.rr.com if you have either of these and would be interested in selling them.

Thanks.

Dean Mericas
1965 TR4
Austin, TX

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Sep 22 19:28:09 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2012 18:28:09 -0700
Subject: [TR] Web Searching
In-Reply-To: <1348347127.61804.YahooMailNeo@web180903.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1348347127.61804.YahooMailNeo@web180903.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <00e901cd992a$b0cccb60$0601a8c0@randall>

> Does anyone 
> else have a good
> way to search Craigslist for car stuff?

Bit of a pain to set up, but I use Google Reader.  It will aggregate from
any RSS source, including Craigslist and eBay.

Basically, you set up the search you want for each Craigslist site, then
copy the RSS link into Google Reader.

-- Randall  

From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com  Sat Sep 22 19:47:35 2012
From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly)
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2012 18:47:35 -0700
Subject: [TR] Best Anti-Rust Coolant
In-Reply-To: <CAPK7CFBUmS=R-Y1h3r70Y9fOSyyPgRY=_P1AUkEx_bKUngAc1A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1348327549.79204.YahooMailNeo@web180905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<8F03BDBC-5707-4FF4-BEA4-67256012D0EE@mac.com>
	<005a01cd98eb$24729d00$0601a8c0@randall>
	<CAPK7CFCtr-Ykc1f8tZ00QwPBaJB=rCTHZkRA1+RhhR7Yanv9ZQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<006701cd98f6$68e00120$0601a8c0@randall>
	<CAPK7CFBUmS=R-Y1h3r70Y9fOSyyPgRY=_P1AUkEx_bKUngAc1A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000301cd992d$67e48520$37ad8f60$@rr.com>

Just so I understand this correctly, having coolent in the water allows the
water in the cooling system to run more efficiently. So if I have proper
50/50 mix then when the gauge shows an increased temp the car is really
being stressed.

I run straight water with no problems.

Johnnie
'67 tr4a

> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-
> 
> "The 0 psi boiling point is 3750 F (1900 C)."... Sorry for the
> confusion in
> the [ALT + 0176] degrees symbol not mapping over to the simple text of
> team.net.  It should read 375-degrees F and 190-degrees C, of course.
> 
> The heat capacity of water is about 4.2 J/cubic cm-K-degree.  Propylene
> glycol is about 2.5, ethylene glycol about 2.4.  Densities are less
> than 5%
> different, so on a volumetric basis water can carry over 60% greater
> heat.
>  This is why we normally don't run 100% antifreeze in our systems, and
> probably one of the reasons our old TRs were originally instructed to
> run
> with "clean rain water" unless it was frosty.  More antifreeze isn't
> better.
> 
> So what's really different from the waterless coolants and running 100%
> regular antifreeze?  Propylene vs ethylene glycol?  That doesn't seem
> like
> much...
> 
> Don

From dave at ranteer.com  Sat Sep 22 19:56:20 2012
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2012 20:56:20 -0500
Subject: [TR] Best Anti-Rust Coolant
In-Reply-To: <000301cd992d$67e48520$37ad8f60$@rr.com>
References: <1348327549.79204.YahooMailNeo@web180905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com><8F03BDBC-5707-4FF4-BEA4-67256012D0EE@mac.com><005a01cd98eb$24729d00$0601a8c0@randall><CAPK7CFCtr-Ykc1f8tZ00QwPBaJB=rCTHZkRA1+RhhR7Yanv9ZQ@mail.gmail.com><006701cd98f6$68e00120$0601a8c0@randall><CAPK7CFBUmS=R-Y1h3r70Y9fOSyyPgRY=_P1AUkEx_bKUngAc1A@mail.gmail.com>
	<000301cd992d$67e48520$37ad8f60$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <30BA2E21765643B2B44D960AF1E065FF@Spitfire>

>From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

An antifreeze is a chemical additive which lowers the freezing point of a 
water-based liquid. An antifreeze mixture is used to achieve freezing-point 
depression for cold environments and also achieves boiling-point elevation 
("anti-boil") to allow higher coolant temperature. Freezing and boiling 
points are colligative properties of a solution, which depend on the 
concentration of the dissolved substance.

Because water has good properties as a coolant, antifreeze is used in 
internal combustion engines and other heat transfer applications, such as 
HVAC chillers and solar water heaters. The purpose of antifreeze is to 
prevent a rigid enclosure from undergoing catastrophic deformation due to 
expansion when water turns to ice. Commercially, either the additive or the 
mixture may be referred to as antifreeze. Careful selection of an antifreeze 
can enable a wide temperature range in which the mixture remains in the 
liquid phase, which is critical to efficient heat transfer and the proper 
functioning of heat exchangers.

from what I understand, 50/50 is not the ideal mixture.  more like 2/3 water 
1/3 antifreeze is better.

is there a chemist on the list who can explain what effect, if any, 
antifreeze has on the boiling point?

-----Original Message----- 
From: John & Pat Donnelly
Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2012 8:47 PM
To: 'Triumphs'
Subject: Re: [TR] Best Anti-Rust Coolant

Just so I understand this correctly, having coolent in the water allows the
water in the cooling system to run more efficiently. So if I have proper
50/50 mix then when the gauge shows an increased temp the car is really
being stressed.

I run straight water with no problems.

Johnnie
'67 tr4a 

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Sep 22 20:10:52 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2012 19:10:52 -0700
Subject: [TR] Best Anti-Rust Coolant
In-Reply-To: <30BA2E21765643B2B44D960AF1E065FF@Spitfire>
References: <1348327549.79204.YahooMailNeo@web180905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com><8F03BDBC-5707-4FF4-BEA4-67256012D0EE@mac.com><005a01cd98eb$24729d00$0601a8c0@randall><CAPK7CFCtr-Ykc1f8tZ00QwPBaJB=rCTHZkRA1+RhhR7Yanv9ZQ@mail.gmail.com><006701cd98f6$68e00120$0601a8c0@randall><CAPK7CFBUmS=R-Y1h3r70Y9fOSyyPgRY=_P1AUkEx_bKUngAc1A@mail.gmail.com><000301cd992d$67e48520$37ad8f60$@rr.com>
	<30BA2E21765643B2B44D960AF1E065FF@Spitfire>
Message-ID: <00f001cd9930$a891a690$0601a8c0@randall>

> is there a chemist on the list who can explain what effect, if any, 
> antifreeze has on the boiling point?

I'm not a chemist, but adding antifreeze does raise the boiling point.  For
commonly used concentrations, it's only by 10 or 15 degrees F, but it does
raise it some.  There is a chart at
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethylene_glycol

Whether that is enough to compensate for its otherwise poor effect on
cooling, I don't know.  In my limited tests though, it would seem not.

-- Randall  

From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Sat Sep 22 20:43:15 2012
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Sat, 22 Sep 2012 21:43:15 -0500
Subject: [TR] Best Anti-Rust Coolant
In-Reply-To: <00f001cd9930$a891a690$0601a8c0@randall>
References: <1348327549.79204.YahooMailNeo@web180905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<8F03BDBC-5707-4FF4-BEA4-67256012D0EE@mac.com>
	<005a01cd98eb$24729d00$0601a8c0@randall>
	<CAPK7CFCtr-Ykc1f8tZ00QwPBaJB=rCTHZkRA1+RhhR7Yanv9ZQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<006701cd98f6$68e00120$0601a8c0@randall>
	<CAPK7CFBUmS=R-Y1h3r70Y9fOSyyPgRY=_P1AUkEx_bKUngAc1A@mail.gmail.com>
	<000301cd992d$67e48520$37ad8f60$@rr.com>
	<30BA2E21765643B2B44D960AF1E065FF@Spitfire>
	<00f001cd9930$a891a690$0601a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <CAPK7CFBzZJDRXXwNpPZR3mZqAi0oAiUBw4aUs2=8wc7bdkmz8A@mail.gmail.com>

Mixing some other sort of molecule with water raises its boiling point
and depresses its freezing point.  Part of a set of properties called
"colligative properties" of materials.

Antifreeze has a real function -- irrespective of the heat capacity
advantages of water (and it makes an excellent heat transfer fluid),
ya got that pesky freezing point to deal with.  The ratio of ethylene
glycol (or other material -- nuthin' magic about glycol) to water
determines the freezing point depression.  Plenty of websites show
freezing point as a function of blend ratio -- your jug of ethylene
glycol should as well.  Adding more ethylene glycol than needed for
the temperatures expected reduces heat capacity of the fluid
unnessarily and wastes ethylene glycol.

Anti-boilover properties come along for the ride, but if you're adding
something to raise the boiling point of water in a TR you have bigger
issues.

Don

PS:  My mom smiled for years at the memory of my dad checking a
boiling over radiator before I was born by holding a match in the dark
to the filler neck.  Whoosh!  The alcohol vapors of the pre-ethylene
glycol antifreeze flashed and burned off his eyebrows.



- Show quoted text -

On 9/22/12, Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
>> is there a chemist on the list who can explain what effect, if any,
>> antifreeze has on the boiling point?
>
> I'm not a chemist, but adding antifreeze does raise the boiling point.  For
> commonly used concentrations, it's only by 10 or 15 degrees F, but it does
> raise it some.  There is a chart at
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethylene_glycol
>
> Whether that is enough to compensate for its otherwise poor effect on
> cooling, I don't know.  In my limited tests though, it would seem not.
>
> -- Randall
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com

From pethier at comcast.net  Sun Sep 23 05:35:12 2012
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2012 11:35:12 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] [VTR] VTR autocross results archives
In-Reply-To: <1348370184.72063.YahooMailNeo@web122304.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1742839741.339615.1348400112283.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier at comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://www.mnautox.com

----- Original Message -----
> From: "Scott T." <sdtilton at yahoo.com>
> To: "Joe Curry" <spitlist at cox.net>, triumphs at autox.team.net, vtr at autox.team.net
> Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2012 10:16:24 PM
> Subject: Re: [VTR] VTR autocross results archives
> I know who won the class that included modified TR6's at Breckenridge.
> 
> :-)

2001 or 2011?


> ________________________________
> From: Joe Curry <spitlist at cox.net>
> To:
> triumphs at autox.team.net; vtr at autox.team.net
> Sent: Saturday, September 22,
> 2012 1:42 PM
> Subject: [VTR] VTR autocross results archives
> 
> Does anyone know
> if there is an archive of the results of VTR autocrosses
> through the years? I
> am particularly interested in the 2001 held in
> Breckinridge, CO.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> Joe
> _______________________________________________
> 
> This list supported in
> part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> Vtr at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/vtr/sdtilton at yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> Vtr at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/vtr/pethier at comcast.net

From trguy75 at gmail.com  Sun Sep 23 06:38:27 2012
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2012 08:38:27 -0400
Subject: [TR] Web Searching
In-Reply-To: <00e901cd992a$b0cccb60$0601a8c0@randall>
References: <1348347127.61804.YahooMailNeo@web180903.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<00e901cd992a$b0cccb60$0601a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <00a801cd9988$554946c0$ffdbd440$@gmail.com>

I like www.adhuntr.com to search for triumph stuff across the country on
craigslist.  You can also use www.craigslist.thingweb.com. Happy hunting! I
have found some great stuff this way.

Jim Henningsen
Ocala FL
62 TR4
75 TR6



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2012 9:28 PM
To: 'William Brewer'; 'Triumphs'
Subject: Re: [TR] Web Searching

> Does anyone
> else have a good
> way to search Craigslist for car stuff?

Bit of a pain to set up, but I use Google Reader.  It will aggregate from
any RSS source, including Craigslist and eBay.

Basically, you set up the search you want for each Craigslist site, then
copy the RSS link into Google Reader.

-- Randall  

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Sep 23 12:17:08 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2012 12:17:08 -0600
Subject: [TR] [VTR] VTR autocross results archives
In-Reply-To: <1742839741.339615.1348400112283.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1742839741.339615.1348400112283.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <505F5224.50101@bradakis.com>

Some things I remember about the 2001 event:

Pugs had the best time for quite a while, in a stock Spitfire on skinny 
street tires.
We ended up using a small, dirty lot instead of the big lot at the high 
school down
the road, shucks.

It was my first event with the 8" rims on Killer.  The wheels stuck out 
about two
inches further than the wheels I had been running, and I wasn't used to 
them yet.
I clipped lots of cones due to that extra width.

I let Tom Blanchard, the fellow running the event, take Killer out on 
course.  About
the time I remember that I hadn't turned on the fuel pump he sputtered 
to a stop in
the middle of the course.  Oops.

mjb.

From dmericas at austin.rr.com  Sun Sep 23 16:32:53 2012
From: dmericas at austin.rr.com (dmericas at austin.rr.com)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2012 17:32:53 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 parts needed
Message-ID: <20120923223253.S67UN.231290.root@hrndva-web02-z01>

Thanks to all who responded to my plea.  I got both parts in short order.  This group is awesome.

Much appreciated.

Dean
1965 TR4
Austin, TX

From keithstewart at execulink.com  Sun Sep 23 16:52:56 2012
From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2012 18:52:56 -0400
Subject: [TR] VTR autocross results archives
In-Reply-To: <505F5224.50101@bradakis.com>
References: <1742839741.339615.1348400112283.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<505F5224.50101@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <A705D5D5-00E0-4B18-8E88-22876B7AB98A@execulink.com>

On 2012-09-23, at 2:17 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote:
>
> I let Tom Blanchard, the fellow running the event, take Killer out on
course.  About
> the time I remember that I hadn't turned on the fuel pump he sputtered to a
stop in
> the middle of the course.  Oops.
>
> mjb.

 Geez, how can we ever trust you again :-)

Keith R. Stewart
75 Camden Road
London, Ontario
N5X 2K2
Home: (519) 660-1916
E-Mail: keithstewart at execulink.com

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Sun Sep 23 19:22:17 2012
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2012 21:22:17 -0400
Subject: [TR] steering wheel
Message-ID: <004401cd99f3$0b433930$21c9ab90$@uprichard.net>

List:

 

I am trying to restore a small-mouth on a budget - it's going to be
interesting to see what a nice frame-off is going to end up costing. No
fast-road car this time - just a standard TR3 with overdrive.   I am doing
everything but chroming, upholstery, machining and final paint.  Oh - and I
got Nisonger to restore the gauges.

 

But I digress:  the steering wheel 's bakelite is cracked.  Anyone have any
suggestions as to who could restore this for me?

 

Really appreciate any help.

 

Andrew Uprichard

1962 TR3B - few upgrades

1968 TR250- fast road

1957 small-mouth.  Getting there

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Sun Sep 23 20:51:08 2012
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2012 19:51:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] steering wheel
Message-ID: <1348455068.11401.YahooMailNeo@web120605.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

On my tr-3 cracked steering wheel, I simply washed it up good with solvent and
then used a stick of epoxy to fill in the cracks.  This required several
applications until I got the cracks filled "proud" of the surface so I could
sand them down even with the surface.  Keep filling and sanding untill the
surface is completely smooth.  Then several good coats of paint did it.  I'm
very happy with the result.

gary n.

From wbeech at flash.net  Sun Sep 23 21:38:32 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2012 22:38:32 -0500
Subject: [TR] steering wheel
In-Reply-To: <1348455068.11401.YahooMailNeo@web120605.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1348455068.11401.YahooMailNeo@web120605.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <5D702C1D18E64D68BD7DAC8F5F77126E@bboffice>

What type of paint did you use?  I was thinking of JB Weld to fill the
cracks in my wheel. 
Bill

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary Nafziger
Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2012 9:51 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] steering wheel

On my tr-3 cracked steering wheel, I simply washed it up good with solvent
and then used a stick of epoxy to fill in the cracks.  This required several
applications until I got the cracks filled "proud" of the surface so I could
sand them down even with the surface.  Keep filling and sanding untill the
surface is completely smooth.  Then several good coats of paint did it.  I'm
very happy with the result.

gary n.

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Sun Sep 23 22:36:43 2012
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Sun, 23 Sep 2012 23:36:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] Web Searching
In-Reply-To: <00a801cd9988$554946c0$ffdbd440$@gmail.com>
References: <1348347127.61804.YahooMailNeo@web180903.mail.ne1.yahoo.com><00e901cd992a$b0cccb60$0601a8c0@randall>
	<00a801cd9988$554946c0$ffdbd440$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <5627FCDF090B4339A713752DE3ECD0DF@GregPC>

Jaxed was great, it got sued or threatened with a suit from Craigslist, who 
as I understand it is owned by E-bay (known to some as "evilbay"), ebay saw 
the jaxed site as direct competition for E-bay, or at least that is the 
logical conjecture.

Will have to check out the alternatives mentioned.

Greg Lemon

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "James Henningsen" <trguy75 at gmail.com>
To: "'Randall'" <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>; "'William Brewer'" 
<wsb1960tr3a at att.net>; "'Triumphs'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2012 7:38 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Web Searching


>I like www.adhuntr.com to search for triumph stuff across the country on
> craigslist.  You can also use www.craigslist.thingweb.com. Happy hunting! 
> I
> have found some great stuff this way.
>
> Jim Henningsen
> Ocala FL
> 62 TR4
> 75 TR6
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall
> Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2012 9:28 PM
> To: 'William Brewer'; 'Triumphs'
> Subject: Re: [TR] Web Searching
>
>> Does anyone
>> else have a good
>> way to search Craigslist for car stuff?
>
> Bit of a pain to set up, but I use Google Reader.  It will aggregate from
> any RSS source, including Craigslist and eBay.
>
> Basically, you set up the search you want for each Craigslist site, then
> copy the RSS link into Google Reader.
>
> -- Randall
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trguy75 at gmail.com
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/glemon at neb.rr.com

From gpr at key-men.com  Mon Sep 24 04:14:24 2012
From: gpr at key-men.com (George Richardson)
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2012 06:14:24 -0400
Subject: [TR] steering wheel
In-Reply-To: <004401cd99f3$0b433930$21c9ab90$@uprichard.net>
References: <004401cd99f3$0b433930$21c9ab90$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <50603280.6000306@key-men.com>

Eastwood sells a steering wheel restoration kit:

http://www.eastwood.com/complete-steering-wheel-restoration-kit-26003.html

I used this myself on the adjustable steering wheel of my '57 TR3. It 
was great. It comes with instructions, epoxy, paint prep, and adhesion 
promoter. All you'll need is black paint.

George Richardson
Key Men - Keys for Classics
www.key-men.com

On 9/23/2012 9:22 PM, Andrew Uprichard wrote:
> List:
>
>   
>
> I am trying to restore a small-mouth on a budget - it's going to be
> interesting to see what a nice frame-off is going to end up costing. No
> fast-road car this time - just a standard TR3 with overdrive.   I am doing
> everything but chroming, upholstery, machining and final paint.  Oh - and I
> got Nisonger to restore the gauges.
>
>   
>
> But I digress:  the steering wheel 's bakelite is cracked.  Anyone have any
> suggestions as to who could restore this for me?
>
>   
>
> Really appreciate any help.
>
>   
>
> Andrew Uprichard
>
> 1962 TR3B - few upgrades
>
> 1968 TR250- fast road
>
> 1957 small-mouth.  Getting there
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/gpr at key-men.com

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Mon Sep 24 06:53:13 2012
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2012 08:53:13 -0400
Subject: [TR] steering wheel
In-Reply-To: <50603280.6000306@key-men.com>
References: <004401cd99f3$0b433930$21c9ab90$@uprichard.net>
	<50603280.6000306@key-men.com>
Message-ID: <005a01cd9a53$8fb74c50$af25e4f0$@uprichard.net>

Thank you to all who replied.  I actually have a couple of wheels, so I
think I'll take a shot at one myself and if I screw up, I'll take one of you
up on your (several) recommendations for the other.

Andrew.

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of George Richardson
Sent: Monday, September 24, 2012 6:14 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] steering wheel

Eastwood sells a steering wheel restoration kit:

http://www.eastwood.com/complete-steering-wheel-restoration-kit-26003.html

I used this myself on the adjustable steering wheel of my '57 TR3. It was
great. It comes with instructions, epoxy, paint prep, and adhesion promoter.
All you'll need is black paint.

George Richardson
Key Men - Keys for Classics
www.key-men.com

On 9/23/2012 9:22 PM, Andrew Uprichard wrote:
> List:
>
>   
>
> I am trying to restore a small-mouth on a budget - it's going to be 
> interesting to see what a nice frame-off is going to end up costing. No
> fast-road car this time - just a standard TR3 with overdrive.   I am doing
> everything but chroming, upholstery, machining and final paint.  Oh - 
> and I got Nisonger to restore the gauges.
>
>   
>
> But I digress:  the steering wheel 's bakelite is cracked.  Anyone 
> have any suggestions as to who could restore this for me?
>
>   
>
> Really appreciate any help.
>
>   
>
> Andrew Uprichard
>
> 1962 TR3B - few upgrades
>
> 1968 TR250- fast road
>
> 1957 small-mouth.  Getting there
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/gpr at key-men.com

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Mon Sep 24 07:17:32 2012
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2012 09:17:32 -0400
Subject: [TR] steering wheel
In-Reply-To: <005a01cd9a53$8fb74c50$af25e4f0$@uprichard.net>
References: <004401cd99f3$0b433930$21c9ab90$@uprichard.net>
	<50603280.6000306@key-men.com>
	<005a01cd9a53$8fb74c50$af25e4f0$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <CAPK7CFB9ohwWeEuk1aYxCGxjB_KNEWUv54He4O3fubA=duitOQ@mail.gmail.com>

Eastwood also offers a POR-15 steering wheel kit (on sale for $72, good for
several wheels they say).  This kit seems to be disappearing from the
POR-15 website, so maybe being discontinued  POR-15 products I've used in
the past have worked exactly as advertised.

http://www.eastwood.com/por-15-steering-wheel-repair-kit.html?srccode=ga220010&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=zzproduct_ads&adtype=pla&kw=&gclid=COz52MqizrICFcxcMgodlDIAPg


Don
1962 TR3B TSF202L


On Mon, Sep 24, 2012 at 8:53 AM, Andrew Uprichard
<auprichard at uprichard.net>wrote:

> Thank you to all who replied.  I actually have a couple of wheels, so I
> think I'll take a shot at one myself and if I screw up, I'll take one of
> you
> up on your (several) recommendations for the other.
>
> Andrew.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of George Richardson
> Sent: Monday, September 24, 2012 6:14 AM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] steering wheel
>
> Eastwood sells a steering wheel restoration kit:
>
> http://www.eastwood.com/complete-steering-wheel-restoration-kit-26003.html
>
> I used this myself on the adjustable steering wheel of my '57 TR3. It was
> great. It comes with instructions, epoxy, paint prep, and adhesion
> promoter.
> All you'll need is black paint.
>
> George Richardson
> Key Men - Keys for Classics
> www.key-men.com
>
> On 9/23/2012 9:22 PM, Andrew Uprichard wrote:
> > List:
> >
> >
> >
> > I am trying to restore a small-mouth on a budget - it's going to be
> > interesting to see what a nice frame-off is going to end up costing. No
> > fast-road car this time - just a standard TR3 with overdrive.   I am
> doing
> > everything but chroming, upholstery, machining and final paint.  Oh -
> > and I got Nisonger to restore the gauges.
> >
> >
> >
> > But I digress:  the steering wheel 's bakelite is cracked.  Anyone
> > have any suggestions as to who could restore this for me?
> >
> >
> >
> > Really appreciate any help.
> >
> >
> >
> > Andrew Uprichard
> >
> > 1962 TR3B - few upgrades
> >
> > 1968 TR250- fast road
> >
> > 1957 small-mouth.  Getting there
> >
> > ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/gpr at key-men.com
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com

From jdabars at att.net  Mon Sep 24 12:26:19 2012
From: jdabars at att.net (Janis Dabars)
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2012 11:26:19 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Fw: cracked steering wheel
Message-ID: <1348511179.9713.YahooMailRC@web185006.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

----- Forwarded Message ----
From: Janis Dabars <jdabars at att.net>
To:
auprichard at uprichard.net
Sent: Mon, September 24, 2012 2:24:55 PM
Subject:
cracked steering wheel


Lives in North Carolina  A TR fanatic
Does fantastic
job---just a hobyist.
allanharper at morrisbb.com 

Caii him (best)   Allan
Harper  828-890-8492

John Dabars
Indianapolis, IN

From allenhess at mgcarclub.com  Mon Sep 24 12:49:50 2012
From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess)
Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2012 14:49:50 -0400
Subject: [TR] steering wheel
In-Reply-To: <mailman.18.1348509604.26494.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.18.1348509604.26494.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8CA1232A-BD79-4255-A3AB-FA967BDE0586@mgcarclub.com>

On my TR4 I opened up the cracks a little and used Bondo. Then primer  
and paint spray cans (Duplicolor, etc.)

On Sep 24, 2012, at 2:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> On my tr-3 cracked steering wheel, I simply washed it up good with  
> solvent and
> then used a stick of epoxy to fill in the cracks.  This required  
> several
> applications until I got the cracks filled "proud" of the surface so  
> I could
> sand them down even with the surface.  Keep filling and sanding  
> untill the
> surface is completely smooth.  Then several good coats of paint did  
> it.  I'm
> very happy with the result.
>
> gary n.

From cliff_hansen at earthlink.net  Tue Sep 25 21:05:39 2012
From: cliff_hansen at earthlink.net (Cliff Hansen)
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2012 21:05:39 -0600
Subject: [TR] Speedisleeve part no. for TR4A-6 pinion flange?
Message-ID: <C44B0BE3F0D145FAB68BFD82740A407B@Shemp>

Does anyone have the current part numbers for a Speedisleeve and seal for a
TR4A pinion?  Chicago Rawhide is now SKF and the CR part number I have
(#99149) doesnbt come up in the SKF catalog.

Thanks,

Cliff

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Sep 25 21:25:50 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2012 20:25:50 -0700
Subject: [TR] Speedisleeve part no. for TR4A-6 pinion flange?
In-Reply-To: <C44B0BE3F0D145FAB68BFD82740A407B@Shemp>
References: <C44B0BE3F0D145FAB68BFD82740A407B@Shemp>
Message-ID: <048e01cd9b96$a0bdded0$0601a8c0@randall>

> TR4A pinion?  Chicago Rawhide is now SKF and the CR part number I have
> (#99149) doesnbt come up in the SKF catalog.

It seems to be in the one they have posted on their web site:
http://goo.gl/AUgh8

-- Randall

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of UNTITLED.JPG]

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Sep 26 06:17:09 2012
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2012 08:17:09 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Spitfire part needed
Message-ID: <1bbb7.5cec1bd9.3d944c45@cs.com>

Forwarded from the Wedge list.  Please respond to 
classic25 at yadtel.net

********************************
I have a friend that needs a exhaust manifold for a 1978 1500cc spitfire.
I'm not on the Triumph mail list so I would appreciate it if someone who is
on the list would post it and let me know if it has been posted.

Thanks,
Joe Worsley

From dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Sep 26 06:34:51 2012
From: dave1massey at cs.com (Dave Massey)
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2012 08:34:51 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Fwd: Spitfire part needed
In-Reply-To: <1bbb7.5cec1bd9.3d944c45@cs.com>
References: <1bbb7.5cec1bd9.3d944c45@cs.com>
Message-ID: <8CF69FA7555B2ED-1F2C-3A61A@Webmail-d114.sysops.aol.com>

 Well, that didn't work.  Let's try this address:

joe.worsley at gmail.com,



Dave Massey






-----Original Message-----
From: Dave1massey <Dave1massey at cs.com>
To: triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>; triumphs <triumphs at sltoa.org>
Cc: classic25 <classic25 at yadtel.net>
Sent: Wed, Sep 26, 2012 7:17 am
Subject: Spitfire part needed


Forwarded from the Wedge list.  Please respond to
classic25 at yadtel.net

********************************
I have a friend that needs a exhaust manifold for a 1978 1500cc spitfire.
I'm not on the Triumph mail list so I would appreciate it if someone who is
on the list would post it and let me know if it has been posted.

Thanks,
Joe Worsley

From cliff_hansen at earthlink.net  Wed Sep 26 06:45:49 2012
From: cliff_hansen at earthlink.net (Cliff Hansen)
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2012 06:45:49 -0600
Subject: [TR] Speedisleeve part no. for TR4A-6 pinion flange?
In-Reply-To: <048e01cd9b96$a0bdded0$0601a8c0@randall>
References: <C44B0BE3F0D145FAB68BFD82740A407B@Shemp>
	<048e01cd9b96$a0bdded0$0601a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <729304FA67E84131A7559CE872B5DCDF@Shemp>

Thanks, Randall.  That part number comes up when searching their catalog but 
not when searching their website - user error again :)

Cliff


-----Original Message----- 
From: Randall
Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2012 9:25 PM
To: 'Cliff Hansen' ; 'list Triumph'
Subject: RE: [TR] Speedisleeve part no. for TR4A-6 pinion flange?

> TR4A pinion?  Chicago Rawhide is now SKF and the CR part number I have
> (#99149) doesnbt come up in the SKF catalog.

It seems to be in the one they have posted on their web site:
http://goo.gl/AUgh8

-- Randall 

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Wed Sep 26 07:31:39 2012
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2012 06:31:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Hope Springs Comments
Message-ID: <1348666299.94837.YahooMailNeo@web180902.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

     I took my wife to dinner and a movie last night. We saw "Hope Springs".
The movie draws middle aged couples because of the plot about an older married
couple in marriage counseling. I parked my TR3 directly in front of the
theater just because. Anyway, my wife was late (as always) and there was a
steady stream of mid-50's & 60's guys looking at my car and asking questions
while their wives rolled their eyes. Every one of them had a TR or MG story
about their youth. One guy gave me a card and asked if he can buy my car if I
ever sell it (sorry Charlie, no way). I love driving an old TR.

     Bill in
Tehachapi

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Wed Sep 26 08:19:12 2012
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2012 07:19:12 -0700
Subject: [TR] Hope Springs Comments
In-Reply-To: <1348666299.94837.YahooMailNeo@web180902.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1348666299.94837.YahooMailNeo@web180902.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <50630EE0.5080100@gmail.com>

On 9/26/12 6:31 AM, William Brewer wrote:
>       Every one of them had a TR or MG story
> about their youth. One guy gave me a card and asked if he can buy my car if I
> ever sell it (sorry Charlie, no way). I love driving an old TR.
>
>   
I few weeks ago my red TR3A was at the Flagstaff Route 66 car show. It 
was parked next to a red 1957 Corvette.  After checking out the other 
cars in the show I mostly hung out by my car as did the owner of the 
'Vette.  Both of us occasionally let enthusiastic folks sit behind the 
wheel so they could get their picture taken. What was interesting was 
what people said.

My TR3 was the source of many people's past.  Stories of high school and 
college days. Of the fun and good times had by previous British sports 
car owners, many of which sold their cars when a first child arrived.  
My car was the stuff of remembered good times.  Though I expect some 
memories were a bit shinier and burned brighter than the actual 
realities. It was also the stuff of longing for a simpler and maybe 
happier past as many people said they would like to get another one.

The Corvette was the stuff of unrealized dreams.  Of something bright 
shiny and powerful they lusted for in high school and college but could 
never afford in the days before family and "responsibilities" took their 
tolls on their lusts and dreams. Whereas many people told stories of 
past involvements with TRs almost no one mentioned a past involvement 
with the 'Vette.  Just always wanting one and it being out of their reach.

Most car show visitors just walked past most of the cars on display.  
Maybe stopping to look in the engine bay and interior before moving on 
the next of 400 and something cars lining the streets of down town 
Flagstaff.  But when they got to our pair of two seater sports cars a 
constant stream of people had to stop and relate stories of dreams and 
past experiences.  Both cars were symbols of people's past, their car 
lusts and dreams.

We noticed that the bigger corvette was of more interest to teenagers 
old enough to drive and the much smaller TR3 attracted the most pre 
teens.  I think largely because it was so different than most of the 
cars at the show and it was closer to their size.  it seemed easier for 
them to relate to a much smaller car.  There were a lot of pictures 
taken of pre teens sitting behind the wheel of my TR3 with one hand on 
the steering wheel and an elbow resting on the door.

Noticeably more pictures were taken of people standing in front of the 
TR than in front of the Vette.  We both concluded that my car was the 
stuff of memories though probably mostly idealized memories and 
fantasies .  His 57 Corvette was mostly the stuff of unreached fantasy.  
Of dreams unobtained.

When the show was over I think both of us went home in the glow of 
knowing that our realities were the stuff of so many other people's 
dreams.  Oil spots and all.

TeriAnn

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Wed Sep 26 13:27:18 2012
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2012 14:27:18 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] Hope Springs Comments
Message-ID: <4950567.1111009.1348687638698.JavaMail.root@vznit170176>

Well said.  Thank you.
Carl
 


On 09/26/12, TeriAnn J. Wakeman wrote:

On 9/26/12 6:31 AM, William Brewer wrote:
> Every one of them had a TR or MG story
> about their youth. One guy gave me a card and asked if he can buy my car if I
> ever sell it (sorry Charlie, no way). I love driving an old TR.
>
> 
I few weeks ago my red TR3A was at the Flagstaff Route 66 car show. It 
was parked next to a red 1957 Corvette. After checking out the other 
cars in the show I mostly hung out by my car as did the owner of the 
'Vette. Both of us occasionally let enthusiastic folks sit behind the 
wheel so they could get their picture taken. What was interesting was 
what people said.

My TR3 was the source of many people's past. Stories of high school and 
college days. Of the fun and good times had by previous British sports 
car owners, many of which sold their cars when a first child arrived. 
My car was the stuff of remembered good times. Though I expect some 
memories were a bit shinier and burned brighter than the actual 
realities. It was also the stuff of longing for a simpler and maybe 
happier past as many people said they would like to get another one.

The Corvette was the stuff of unrealized dreams. Of something bright 
shiny and powerful they lusted for in high school and college but could 
never afford in the days before family and "responsibilities" took their 
tolls on their lusts and dreams. Whereas many people told stories of 
past involvements with TRs almost no one mentioned a past involvement 
with the 'Vette. Just always wanting one and it being out of their reach.

Most car show visitors just walked past most of the cars on display. 
Maybe stopping to look in the engine bay and interior before moving on 
the next of 400 and something cars lining the streets of down town 
Flagstaff. But when they got to our pair of two seater sports cars a 
constant stream of people had to stop and relate stories of dreams and 
past experiences. Both cars were symbols of people's past, their car 
lusts and dreams.

We noticed that the bigger corvette was of more interest to teenagers 
old enough to drive and the much smaller TR3 attracted the most pre 
teens. I think largely because it was so different than most of the 
cars at the show and it was closer to their size. it seemed easier for 
them to relate to a much smaller car. There were a lot of pictures 
taken of pre teens sitting behind the wheel of my TR3 with one hand on 
the steering wheel and an elbow resting on the door.

Noticeably more pictures were taken of people standing in front of the 
TR than in front of the Vette. We both concluded that my car was the 
stuff of memories though probably mostly idealized memories and 
fantasies . His 57 Corvette was mostly the stuff of unreached fantasy. 
Of dreams unobtained.

When the show was over I think both of us went home in the glow of 
knowing that our realities were the stuff of so many other people's 
dreams. Oil spots and all.

TeriAnn

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Wed Sep 26 14:23:17 2012
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2012 16:23:17 -0400
Subject: [TR] Routing of Speedo Cable on LHS non-OD TR3A/B?
Message-ID: <CAPK7CFD37OD-tXWaOYT=m2r+=U6SnPsOrFh9Eyf5bfygtLuCXw@mail.gmail.com>

A new speedo cable will be installed in my TR3B in a week or two as the
original gave up the ghost about a week after the car's return to the road
(a nasty kink exiting the gearbox).  As I look at old photos of my car
pre-restoration and reference photos of other unrestored TR3A/Bs the exact
cable routing isn't clear.  The TRA Judging Standards
and  Restoration Guidelines is confused too, apparently, treating some of
the details with ??? in the text on page UH-23 of the May 2004 revision.

Triumph usually did what they did for a reason, typically cost control or
maximum reliability.

Whaddya all think?
1.  Does the speedometer cable go between the inner fender and steering
column or between engine and steering column?
2.  One or two clips on the chassis? (the Triumph Spare Parts Catalog 4th
Edition specifies two, one to chassis, one to cruciform, with different
part numbers for each)
3.  Any P-clips on the dash?  (Parts catalog specifies a clip + screw for
non OD and even two on RHS version.  A screw clip on LHS non-OD mystifies
me, and it's not clear which side of the firewall they're referring to for
this "dash" clip.)

TIA,

Don

From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Wed Sep 26 15:18:37 2012
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2012 17:18:37 -0400
Subject: [TR] Routing of Speedo Cable on LHS non-OD TR3A/B?
In-Reply-To: <CAPK7CFD37OD-tXWaOYT=m2r+=U6SnPsOrFh9Eyf5bfygtLuCXw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPK7CFD37OD-tXWaOYT=m2r+=U6SnPsOrFh9Eyf5bfygtLuCXw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPK7CFD=mvYqqm=EbLapHbz63B8e1TnfVNM93yg84Jo8uEcb1A@mail.gmail.com>

Consensus  coming in through pm is that LHS non-OD speedo cable is routed
between steering column and inner fender, as illustrated on page 13 of
blue-covered "Practical Hints" TR3 manual.

No word on where a p-clip might fit, though...

Thanks, guys.

Don

On Wed, Sep 26, 2012 at 4:23 PM, Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com> wrote:

> A new speedo cable will be installed in my TR3B in a week or two as the
> original gave up the ghost about a week after the car's return to the road
> (a nasty kink exiting the gearbox).  As I look at old photos of my car
> pre-restoration and reference photos of other unrestored TR3A/Bs the exact
> cable routing isn't clear.  The TRA Judging Standards
> and  Restoration Guidelines is confused too, apparently, treating some of
> the details with ??? in the text on page UH-23 of the May 2004 revision.
>
> Triumph usually did what they did for a reason, typically cost control or
> maximum reliability.
>
> Whaddya all think?
> 1.  Does the speedometer cable go between the inner fender and steering
> column or between engine and steering column?
> 2.  One or two clips on the chassis? (the Triumph Spare Parts Catalog 4th
> Edition specifies two, one to chassis, one to cruciform, with different
> part numbers for each)
> 3.  Any P-clips on the dash?  (Parts catalog specifies a clip + screw for
> non OD and even two on RHS version.  A screw clip on LHS non-OD mystifies
> me, and it's not clear which side of the firewall they're referring to for
> this "dash" clip.)
>
> TIA,
>
> Don

From davewillner at pa.net  Wed Sep 26 15:40:31 2012
From: davewillner at pa.net (davewillner)
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2012 17:40:31 -0400
Subject: [TR] Routing of Speedo Cable on LHS non-OD TR3A/B?
References: <CAPK7CFD37OD-tXWaOYT=m2r+=U6SnPsOrFh9Eyf5bfygtLuCXw@mail.gmail.com>
	<CAPK7CFD=mvYqqm=EbLapHbz63B8e1TnfVNM93yg84Jo8uEcb1A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <FD2C164008034E1F869C18FC4388F8C4@greenwaymedical.com>

I have no P clamps on either cable....I have seen clips on early 3s under a 
slotted screw (at the 1 o'clock position) that helps hold the steering 
grommet in place from turning with the column (in addition to the spring 
clamp), that might be for the speedo cable? Although I don't believe my post 
60,000 car ever had a clip there.

Dave Willner
Stroudsburg PA
59 TR3A
70 MGB
70 BSA 441 VS

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Don Hiscock" <don.hiscock at gmail.com>
To: "Triumphs" <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2012 5:18 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Routing of Speedo Cable on LHS non-OD TR3A/B?


> Consensus  coming in through pm is that LHS non-OD speedo cable is routed
> between steering column and inner fender, as illustrated on page 13 of
> blue-covered "Practical Hints" TR3 manual.
>
> No word on where a p-clip might fit, though...
>
> Thanks, guys.
>
> Don
>
> On Wed, Sep 26, 2012 at 4:23 PM, Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com> 
> wrote:
>
>> A new speedo cable will be installed in my TR3B in a week or two as the
>> original gave up the ghost about a week after the car's return to the 
>> road
>> (a nasty kink exiting the gearbox).  As I look at old photos of my car
>> pre-restoration and reference photos of other unrestored TR3A/Bs the 
>> exact
>> cable routing isn't clear.  The TRA Judging Standards
>> and  Restoration Guidelines is confused too, apparently, treating some of
>> the details with ??? in the text on page UH-23 of the May 2004 revision.
>>
>> Triumph usually did what they did for a reason, typically cost control or
>> maximum reliability.
>>
>> Whaddya all think?
>> 1.  Does the speedometer cable go between the inner fender and steering
>> column or between engine and steering column?
>> 2.  One or two clips on the chassis? (the Triumph Spare Parts Catalog 4th
>> Edition specifies two, one to chassis, one to cruciform, with different
>> part numbers for each)
>> 3.  Any P-clips on the dash?  (Parts catalog specifies a clip + screw for
>> non OD and even two on RHS version.  A screw clip on LHS non-OD mystifies
>> me, and it's not clear which side of the firewall they're referring to 
>> for
>> this "dash" clip.)
>>
>> TIA,
>>
>> Don
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/davewillner at pa.net

From fishplate at charter.net  Wed Sep 26 16:18:56 2012
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff)
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2012 18:18:56 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 Gearbox Cover
Message-ID: <50637F50.80704@charter.net>

Another question regarding TR6 fastener esoterica...

TR6 gearbox cover - I'm replacing my cardboard mess with a plastic one.  
There is a short metal "bridge" that attaches to the cover to make the 
seal under the bulging part of the cover.  You can see the bulge in this 
photo from Rimmer: http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-713569PL -- it's 
on the side, right under the gear lever hole.

My bridge piece has one hole to align with the cover hold-down bolt, and 
two holes in the vertical bit to attach to the cover.  On the old cover, 
it looks for all the world like it had one screw and one rivet.  There's 
only one spire nut on the piece...and what looks like an old broken 
rivet in the cover.  If I took the screw out, I don't remember.

Does this sound right?  I suppose it doesn't really matter, but I'm 
curious - if it uses one screw and one rivet, does that mean my car was 
assembled after a pub lunch?

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Wed Sep 26 16:28:39 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2012 15:28:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 Gearbox Cover
In-Reply-To: <50637F50.80704@charter.net>
References: <50637F50.80704@charter.net>
Message-ID: <1348698519.6227.YahooMailNeo@web120003.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

could your "rivet" be the remnants of the carpet hold down snap?
frank

From:
Jeff <fishplate at charter.net>
To: *Triumphs List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2012 3:18 PM
Subject: [TR] TR6 Gearbox Cover
Another question regarding TR6 fastener esoterica...

TR6 gearbox cover - I'm
replacing my cardboard mess with a plastic one.  There is a short metal
"bridge" that attaches to the cover to make the seal under the bulging part of
the cover.  You can see the bulge in this photo from Rimmer:
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-713569PL -- it's on the side, right under
the gear lever hole.

My bridge piece has one hole to align with the cover
hold-down bolt, and two holes in the vertical bit to attach to the cover.  On
the old cover, it looks for all the world like it had one screw and one
rivet.  There's only one spire nut on the piece...and what looks like an old
broken rivet in the cover.  If I took the screw out, I don't remember.

Does
this sound right?  I suppose it doesn't really matter, but I'm curious - if it
uses one screw and one rivet, does that mean my car was assembled after a pub
lunch?

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

** triumphs at autox.team.net **
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From fishplate at charter.net  Wed Sep 26 16:54:34 2012
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff)
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2012 18:54:34 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 Gearbox Cover
In-Reply-To: <1348698519.6227.YahooMailNeo@web120003.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <50637F50.80704@charter.net>
	<1348698519.6227.YahooMailNeo@web120003.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <506387AA.8030606@charter.net>

On 9/26/2012 6:28 PM, Frank Fisher wrote:
> could your "rivet" be the remnantsof the carpet hold down snap?

The rivet matches up with the hole in the bridge/bracket.  I don't think 
there's a snap there, but I could be wrong.  Doesn't look like one, 
though...



> TR6 gearbox cover - I'm replacing my cardboard mess with a plastic 
> one.  There is a short metal "bridge" that attaches to the cover to 
> make the seal under the bulging part of the cover.  You can see the 
> bulge in this photo from Rimmer: 
> http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-713569PL -- it's on the side, 
> right under the gear lever hole.
>
> My bridge piece has one hole to align with the cover hold-down bolt, 
> and two holes in the vertical bit to attach to the cover.  On the old 
> cover, it looks for all the world like it had one screw and one 
> rivet.  There's only one spire nut on the piece...and what looks like 
> an old broken rivet in the cover.  If I took the screw out, I don't 
> remember.
>
> Does this sound right?  I suppose it doesn't really matter, but I'm 
> curious - if it uses one screw and one rivet, does that mean my car 
> was assembled after a pub lunch?
>
> Jeff Scarbrough
> Corrosion Acres, Ga.
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net> **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Wed Sep 26 18:27:32 2012
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2012 17:27:32 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] control head "roller" ?
Message-ID: <1348705652.37322.YahooMailNeo@web120601.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Took apart the control head (tr-3)...........re-assembled............... and
now can't make the lever stay ON when moved to the right or left.  (when moved
to right or left it flies back to center).
 Should there be a "roller" or
spring loaded "ball" on the lower end of the turn signal lever?  I notice
there is a square hole in the bottom of the lever which holds a spring and I
also have a square shaped piece of brass that slides inside the square hole
and over the spring.  The tip of this square shaped brass piece has a cross
cut depression which looks as it should hold something.................
I
might have lost?

thanks

gary n.

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Sep 26 20:16:02 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2012 19:16:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] Hope Springs Comments
In-Reply-To: <50630EE0.5080100@gmail.com>
References: <1348666299.94837.YahooMailNeo@web180902.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<50630EE0.5080100@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <058f01cd9c56$0b205040$0601a8c0@randall>

> When the show was over I think both of us went home in the glow of 
> knowing that our realities were the stuff of so many other people's 
> dreams.  Oil spots and all.

You do have a way with words, TeriAnn.  Thank you.

-- Randall  

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Wed Sep 26 20:54:11 2012
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2012 19:54:11 -0700
Subject: [TR] A triumph desert starts a short fall bloom
Message-ID: <5063BFD3.6020903@gmail.com>

This afternoon I pulled my TR3 out of the garage and made a run to the 
East side Home depot to pick up more bonemeal for some tulips I'm 
planting. Little America, the scene of the ever so imminent 2012 
Triumphest is all of maybe 2 blocks from my freeway entrance on the way 
home to Western Flagstaff. So I decided to take a slight detour, call it 
pre gathering excitement.  Sitting at the back of the Little America 
parking lot was a trio of TR6's.  As near as I have been able to 
determine that tripled the number of Triumphs in Flagstaff. There is my 
3A plus a guy just South of Flagstaff proper who owns a blue TR6 and a 
Black 3A.  That's the entire Flagstaff TR resident population.

Soon, very soon there will be a brief bloom of Triumphs in a Triumph 
desert.  I am so looking forward to not being alone on the streets in a 
TR. It was hard moving from the Monterey bay area with its British 
sports cars & nearby British car field meets to a town on Route 66 that 
loves old American iron but has a dearth of classic British cars. 
Monterey car week used to be one of the major highlights of my year.

Flagstaff has a lot to offer but British sports cars is not part of the 
scene.  So this weekend I will bask in the company of Triumphs during 
this all too short fall Triumph bloom.

To those of you coming to Triumphest - Welcome.

TeriAnn
Look for a red TR3A with hard top and FOT grille badge.

TeriAnn

From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com  Thu Sep 27 04:19:26 2012
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2012 03:19:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
Message-ID: <1348741166.35293.YahooMailNeo@web39402.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi list!
I sent E-mails to 2 different people That didn't reply. I believe
that many of my E-mails that I send out go to the 'spam' folder instead of the
in box so that's why I'm making this post:
===========
1- From: Cosmo Kramer
<tr4a2712 at yahoo.com>
To: "dmericas at austin.rr.com" <dmericas at austin.rr.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2012 7:45 AM
Subject: Yellow Engine Fan
   
Hi
Don!
I have one, but I'm on the Digest List so you may have received a reply
already.  
If you want (& you haven't received a reply, yet), E-mail me & I'll
go look for it up in my loft? 
-Cosmo Kramer
-------------------------------    
2- From: Cosmo Kramer <tr4a2712 at yahoo.com>
To: ""Joe Curry"" <spitlist at cox.net> 
Sent: Sunday, September 23, 2012 7:28 AM
Subject: Glob Decal- PLEASE Reply
  
Hi Joe!
I know you sell an 11" decal of
the TRIUMPH Shield, but I was wondering if you had a "TRIUMPH" Globe large
decal?  
If not, then do you have an image of this that you could E-mail me,
in an attachment, that would give GOOD Detail Quality if blown up to a 24"
diameter?
-Cosmo Kramer
===========    
Would these two people, or anyone else
that might be of help to me, please reply. TIA, & I'm sorry to bother the
list.
-Cosmo Kramer

-Cosmo Kramer

From agraham at execulink.com  Thu Sep 27 08:49:30 2012
From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham)
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2012 10:49:30 -0400
Subject: [TR] Heat insulation material - installation
Message-ID: <5064677A.6050000@execulink.com>

Hello List:
Just picked up some of the foil backed heat insulation to finish off the 
interior of my '2 project. The material is felt backed by a shiny 
aluminum foil. First and obvious question is which side goes "down". I 
have seen many cars with the insulation installed both ways, the foil 
side up - away from the heat source and others with the felt side toward 
the heat source. Having the foil side up makes for easier carpet 
installation as it is easier to glue on this surface.
Any thoughts or experiences on this one?
What about the floor pans? Should they be covered as well? Intend to 
cover the inside of the firewall, the trans tunnel. Any other areas that 
need attention? The '2 tends to have a bit hotter cockpit, as it does 
not have a scuttle vent.
Thanks for any help.
Angelo Graham

From greg at gelhar.com  Thu Sep 27 11:32:06 2012
From: greg at gelhar.com (greg at gelhar.com)
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2012 13:32:06 -0400
Subject: [TR] control head "roller" ?
In-Reply-To: <1348705652.37322.YahooMailNeo@web120601.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1348705652.37322.YahooMailNeo@web120601.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <d8788be2bf29dbe85fcf63ca8d0577fe.squirrel@email.accountsupport.com>

Gary, yes there is a spring behind, and a roller in front of the square
brass piece. Let me know if you don't find the roller, I know I have some
parts in a box around here.

Greg G.
Osseo, MN



> Took apart the control head (tr-3)...........re-assembled...............
> and
> now can't make the lever stay ON when moved to the right or left.  (when
> moved
> to right or left it flies back to center).
>  Should there be a "roller" or
> spring loaded "ball" on the lower end of the turn signal lever?  I notice
> there is a square hole in the bottom of the lever which holds a spring and
> I
> also have a square shaped piece of brass that slides inside the square
> hole
> and over the spring.  The tip of this square shaped brass piece has a
> cross
> cut depression which looks as it should hold something.................
> I
> might have lost?
>
> thanks
>
> gary n.
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/greg at gelhar.com

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Thu Sep 27 12:50:38 2012
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2012 11:50:38 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] control head "roller" and electrics
Message-ID: <1348771838.7635.YahooMailNeo@web120602.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Thanks to all who responded to the control head "roller" quest.  Daydreaming
before falling to sleep last night I remembered cleaning out the control head
with solvent and a toothbrush........dumping the remains into a coffee can. 
Today revisited the folgers can........dumped it and combed through the muck
found the little "roller".  OMG.........smaller than a Pea.  One of those
miracle days!

But still having trouble getting lights to work...........nada
on tail or headlights.  (59 tr-3)   Have re-checked all the dash switch
connections and they seem in order but a strange thing happens.  I can turn on
the ignition switch and hit the starter and it turns starter as well as turns
on the ignition warning light.  After several times of switching on and
off.............everything goes dead.  no ignition warning light and no
starter response................... although the starter does turn from the
solenoid on the firewall.  

Motor will start and run...........but have no
response with any of the other accessories such as head lights.....tail
lights........wipers ect.  Am wondering about control box.  Have to admit
complete idiocy in the electrical area.LOL

gary n.

From greg at gelhar.com  Thu Sep 27 13:16:11 2012
From: greg at gelhar.com (greg at gelhar.com)
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2012 15:16:11 -0400
Subject: [TR] control head "roller" and electrics
In-Reply-To: <1348771838.7635.YahooMailNeo@web120602.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1348771838.7635.YahooMailNeo@web120602.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <18d322b631087bc2f7421ca8b6687d7f.squirrel@email.accountsupport.com>

> Thanks to all who responded to the control head "roller" quest.
> Daydreaming
> before falling to sleep last night I remembered cleaning out the control
> head
> with solvent and a toothbrush........dumping the remains into a coffee
> can.
> Today revisited the folgers can........dumped it and combed through the
> muck
> found the little "roller".  OMG.........smaller than a Pea.  One of those
> miracle days!

I know. I went to look for one in my spare parts and had trouble not
loosing it on the floor.
>
> But still having trouble getting lights to work...........nada
> on tail or headlights.  (59 tr-3)   Have re-checked all the dash switch
> connections and they seem in order but a strange thing happens.  I can
> turn on
> the ignition switch and hit the starter and it turns starter as well as
> turns
> on the ignition warning light.

That sounds normal as the generator has not yet begun to produce power.

 After several times of switching on and
> off.............everything goes dead.  no ignition warning light and no
> starter response................... although the starter does turn from
> the
> solenoid on the firewall.
>

The power source for the lighting goes through the ammeter. I have seen
where the ammeters fail and produce the symptoms you are experiencing.

> Motor will start and run...........but have no
> response with any of the other accessories such as head lights.....tail
> lights........wipers ect.  Am wondering about control box.  Have to admit
> complete idiocy in the electrical area.LOL
>
> gary n.
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/greg at gelhar.com

From triumphstag at gmail.com  Thu Sep 27 14:55:23 2012
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2012 13:55:23 -0700
Subject: [TR] 95% complete TR7 in picknpull on monterey road in san jose
Message-ID: <CANLCLaGDQJM8hVf+5YHugjqRgfVgmKFu_8Lrny_uBUeBwd_Lng@mail.gmail.com>

The head is in the trunk and looks like it was redone. There was no
noticeable bore wear

There looks like there is a diff rebuild kit in the trunk too.
along with a 25(A)CR alternator.

It's quite complete with AC the sanden commpressor was there as well.

California car no rust what so ever.

I took the expansion bottle from it. Interesting, the ones I've seen on
other TR7 were metal, but this one looked like the Stags- plastic, with an
extra reseroir attached to it via  a pipe.


Sad really.
Sujit

-- 
Sujit Roy, Realtor
Cupertino, CA
(408) 839-8359

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Sep 27 15:42:04 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (tr3driver at ca.rr.com)
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2012 17:42:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] control head "roller" and electrics
In-Reply-To: <1348771838.7635.YahooMailNeo@web120602.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20120927214205.GYRMK.2058.root@cdptpa-web19-z01>

Sounds like multiple poor connections to me, and possibly some mis-wiring as well.

> I can turn on
> the ignition switch and hit the starter and it turns starter as well as turns
> on the ignition warning light.

The warning light should come on immediately after turning on the key, not wait until you hit the starter button.  That's an easy one to work on, so I would probably solve that first.  (The problem(s) you find may affect the other issues.)  When the key is first turned on, one side of the light gets 12v from the ignition (white wire from ignition switch), while the other side is grounded through the generator (yellow wire from terminal D on the control box).  Get out your test light or DMM and see which of those voltages is wrong.

>  After several times of switching on and
> off.............everything goes dead.  no ignition warning light and no
> starter response................... although the starter does turn from the
> solenoid on the firewall.  

Bad connection somewhere, obviously.  Get to that state, then start probing along the circuit to the ignition switch.  I would probably start at the two brown wires on the fuse block (which should both have 12v on them).  Then the brown/white at terminal A on the control box, and brown/blue at terminal A1.  If the NU wire has 12v but still no joy at the dash, then move under the dash and check out the two NU wires on the headlight switch.

>  Am wondering about control box. 

Although it may have problems as well, it should not affect any of the problems above.

--- Randall

From gpr at key-men.com  Thu Sep 27 16:03:03 2012
From: gpr at key-men.com (George Richardson)
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2012 18:03:03 -0400
Subject: [TR] Heat insulation material - installation
In-Reply-To: <5064677A.6050000@execulink.com>
References: <5064677A.6050000@execulink.com>
Message-ID: <5064CD17.4060103@key-men.com>

Putting the foil towards the heat source prevents the felt from getting 
toasty.

George Richardson
Key Men - Keys for Classics
www.key-men.com

On 9/27/2012 10:49 AM, Angelo Graham wrote:
> Hello List:
> Just picked up some of the foil backed heat insulation to finish off 
> the interior of my '2 project. The material is felt backed by a shiny 
> aluminum foil. First and obvious question is which side goes "down". I 
> have seen many cars with the insulation installed both ways, the foil 
> side up - away from the heat source and others with the felt side 
> toward the heat source. Having the foil side up makes for easier 
> carpet installation as it is easier to glue on this surface.
> Any thoughts or experiences on this one?
> What about the floor pans? Should they be covered as well? Intend to 
> cover the inside of the firewall, the trans tunnel. Any other areas 
> that need attention? The '2 tends to have a bit hotter cockpit, as it 
> does not have a scuttle vent.
> Thanks for any help.
> Angelo Graham
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/gpr at key-men.com

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Thu Sep 27 20:36:46 2012
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2012 22:36:46 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tr6 update
In-Reply-To: <CANhzkeNa5NTa8H8X4UL2Ghja+gTe02aLaspRYk2TqrGbHYjRuw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANhzkeNa5NTa8H8X4UL2Ghja+gTe02aLaspRYk2TqrGbHYjRuw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANhzkeO=GzEPHxFaCdDhkDWTCLM-A6rEtNmTp0NDkwWX38k0kQ@mail.gmail.com>

With the new job and everything, I have not posted in a while.

So... i bought an awesome tr6 for a good price, but it's not so awesome....

I've removed a good 15 ft of wire from the harness (melted wire).

The pertronix was wired wrong. 6v ballast not understood. Not sure if
damaged- replaced with points.

Weber carburetors looked awesome.

Timing totally off. Corrected but runs like crap. but it runs.

Huge clunk from the rear end when i shift into first. Jacked it up. Diff
seems to have over 30 degrees of rotational play.

Sooo.....

Found the carbs would not balance.  Engine just hunted around for an idle
point.  Pulled the filters and inserted the airflow meter. Balanced and no
joy.

Blocked off the front carb and engine dies. Blocked off rear carb and idle
increases.  Wierd. Intake leak? Hmm

More tweaking. Then realization.

Bending over and looking into the rear carb... omg. There musta been some
hot fire there.  The entire internals were once a hot molten mess. Total
meltdown. Buyers remorse setting in. And i lost a deep well 9/16ths
somewhere in the engine area (and it's not mine!)

Ditched the Webers for zeniths.  I rebuilt the ones from my buddy. Wow!
Pulled the fuel line off the carb and it squirted.  Crap.  Another
problem.  The gastank vent is clogged.  Now i understand. We were suffering
from fuel starvation. Need to work in the vent.

Today is good. Carbs rebuilt w/new shaft seals. Believe it or not, it
started in the first click. Only got better.

More to go, but feel i'm turning a corner.

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Sep 28 02:47:36 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2012 01:47:36 -0700
Subject: [TR] Heat insulation material - installation
In-Reply-To: <5064677A.6050000@execulink.com>
References: <5064677A.6050000@execulink.com>
Message-ID: <06a501cd9d55$e8ea42a0$0601a8c0@randall>

Putting it on the floor pans will definitely help with heat.  

However, mine isn't glued down, so I can pull it out when the carpet gets
wet.

I'm not convinced that it makes any difference at all, but mine is felt side
down on the theory that the foil on top will help trap air inside the felt,
which might possibly increase the R-value by some miniscule amount.

> The '2 tends to have a bit hotter cockpit, as it does 
> not have a scuttle vent.

Does anyone feel like the scuttle vent actually does anything?  I've never
been able to tell the difference.

-- Randall  

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Sep 28 04:55:31 2012
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2012 06:55:31 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Heat insulation material - installation
Message-ID: <69d8.706eb0cf.3d96dc23@cs.com>

When was the last time you drove with the top up and the side curtains 
installed?

Seriously, even with the top up and the side curtains in the scuttle vent 
will introduce fresh air that will dilute the not so fresh air that leaks in 
from underneath through the various leak points in the fire wall, 
floorboards and transmission tunnel.

As far as keeping you cool, forget it.

Dave

In a message dated 9/28/2012 3:47:00 AM Central Daylight Time, 
TR3driver at ca.rr.com writes: 
> Does anyone feel like the scuttle vent actually does anything?  I've 
> never
> been able to tell the difference.

From levilevi at comcast.net  Fri Sep 28 10:22:23 2012
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2012 10:22:23 -0600
Subject: [TR] Heat insulation material - installation
In-Reply-To: <06a501cd9d55$e8ea42a0$0601a8c0@randall>
References: <5064677A.6050000@execulink.com>
	<06a501cd9d55$e8ea42a0$0601a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <95ED1A9D-8BD7-458D-A0AF-B8CAC888F1DD@comcast.net>

When I've done long trips on hot summer days I've found the scuttle  
vent provides a lot of hot air so I shut it off. The design is such on  
a TR6 that it collects heat from the hot firewall and shoots it right  
into the cockpit. Not what you want when it's 104 degrees like trips  
to VTR99 in Portland Maine, and VTR2000 in Portland Oregon.


Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)


On Sep 28, 2012, at 2:47 AM, Randall wrote:

> Does anyone feel like the scuttle vent actually does anything?  I've  
> never
> been able to tell the difference.

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Fri Sep 28 16:34:49 2012
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2012 15:34:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] "roller" electrics thanks
Message-ID: <1348871689.4008.YahooMailNeo@web120602.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Found the roller and all parts together and accounted for!  


Electrics
problems is also on the way to a cure!  Most frustrating part was intermittent
failure of juice to lights and dash.  Had good power at firewall starter
solenoid.  (tr-3).  HOWEVER at the solenoid I was checking the power mostly at
the nut and tip of the solenoid threaded connection. 


Closer to the solenoid
body on the same threaded connector is another nut holding on the slide-on
terminals.  Accidently touching back in that area found no juice while there
was juice on the outer nut and threaded portion.  Took the solenoid off and
completely stripped off all the nuts and connectors...........scoured off 53
years of grime and crap.  The inner nut was so corroded and rusty it took a
file and heavy sandpaper to clean up to shiny.  All back together and I have
good strong juice all the time.  Sometimes I get it!

Seem to still have some
problems with lights but on jumping around switch find the lights work. 
Decided to order all new switches and think maybe 90 percent of problems will
be solved.  


Thanks for all the help on electrics and control head!!!

gary
n.

From mark at bradakis.com  Fri Sep 28 17:43:11 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2012 17:43:11 -0600
Subject: [TR] Tarbaby Triumph, sort of
Message-ID: <5066360F.1090701@bradakis.com>

As some of you know I was a delivery driver for a local parts warehouse 
for a couple
of years.  One shop I visited on a daily basis had this red TR7 parked 
out front.  It had
been there a while the first time I stopped by, and was there for about 
a year and a
half.  Thankfully the place got rid of it, I was *so* *close* to hauling 
it home myself.

And some of you know that this summer I was working at my friend's 
repair shop.
He didn't really have enough work coming in to make it worth his while 
to keep me
around, so we parted ways a while back.  I go get my phone to give him a 
call, as
the S10 needs emissions inspection.  Lo and behold there's a message 
from him -
he has a TR7 that needs some work.

Sure enough, I head down there and there sits that TR7 that sat outside 
that Tunex
for a couple of years.  And boy, does it need work!  I did manage to get 
it so it would
sort of run and be driveable, will do some fine tuning once it gets back 
from the
exhaust place.  Unmuffled motors inside a building can be annoying.

mjb.

From bjzwissler at gmail.com  Fri Sep 28 20:02:46 2012
From: bjzwissler at gmail.com (Benjamin Zwissler)
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2012 22:02:46 -0400
Subject: [TR] Troubleshooting HS6 Carb Issue
Message-ID: <CAMHq6Zz7JggVueaUv6NBMjAuEB6aPH+5P_xMJygWbgVKq=HUWA@mail.gmail.com>

I've got a new (to me at least) problem and I'm wondering if anyone has
experienced it.  After sitting over last winter my TR4A with HS6 carbs was
running badly.  It was stored with Sta-Bil in the gas, but after some
troubleshooting I determined it was running lean and what fixed it was
shooting some carb cleaner down the jet tube from the carb throat.  I
didn't think much of it after a winter of storage, but now for the third
time this season I've had to do the same thing after not driving the car
for 10-14 days.  I generally drive the car pretty regularly, putting 1-2000
miles on it this year,but I was travelling for a week and then we've had
rain (southern Indiana).  There's about 5000 miles on the car since
finishing restoration.  Everything is stock, including the float valves (no
Grose jets).  I do use lead substitute in the fuel (no hardened valve seats
installed and, yes, I regret that).  The fuel tank was cleaned and sealed
during the restoration and there's a fuel filter on the pump outlet side.
 I pulled the top off the float bowls while troubleshooting and found
nothing unusual.

I can now pull the top off the carb, remove the dashpot and shoot carb
cleaner down the jet in less than 5 minutes, but I'd like to avoid this.
 I've never experienced this before, and I don't know whether to blame it
on reformulated gas or what.  Each time after shooting the carb cleaner its
back to running perfectly.  I'm planning to disassemble the carbs and check
things out over the winter, but I'm wondering if if anyone's experienced
this before.  I'm hoping to find some explanation.

Thanks, Ben Zwissler
Columbus, IN
bjzwissler at gmail.com

From wbeech at flash.net  Fri Sep 28 21:13:30 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2012 22:13:30 -0500
Subject: [TR] Troubleshooting HS6 Carb Issue
In-Reply-To: <CAMHq6Zz7JggVueaUv6NBMjAuEB6aPH+5P_xMJygWbgVKq=HUWA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAMHq6Zz7JggVueaUv6NBMjAuEB6aPH+5P_xMJygWbgVKq=HUWA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <024AAE9A9C1B4020A400B960F40F916A@bboffice>

Ben,

Please define "running badly". 

Is missing?  Real sluggish? Will rev through the RPM range?  Have you
drained and re-filled the gas tank with fresh fuel?  Have you lifted and
released the piston/slide to be sure it is travelling all the way up and
down, with an audible 'clunk' when it hits bottom?  Once you start and run,
how long until is goes back to 'running badly'?

Inquiring minds need to know,
All the best,
Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow"
M.Andretti


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Benjamin Zwissler
Sent: Friday, September 28, 2012 9:03 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Troubleshooting HS6 Carb Issue

I've got a new (to me at least) problem and I'm wondering if anyone has
experienced it.  After sitting over last winter my TR4A with HS6 carbs was
running badly.  It was stored with Sta-Bil in the gas, but after some
troubleshooting I determined it was running lean and what fixed it was
shooting some carb cleaner down the jet tube from the carb throat.  I didn't
think much of it after a winter of storage, but now for the third time this
season I've had to do the same thing after not driving the car for 10-14
days.  I generally drive the car pretty regularly, putting 1-2000 miles on
it this year,but I was travelling for a week and then we've had rain
(southern Indiana).  There's about 5000 miles on the car since finishing
restoration.  Everything is stock, including the float valves (no Grose
jets).  I do use lead substitute in the fuel (no hardened valve seats
installed and, yes, I regret that).  The fuel tank was cleaned and sealed
during the restoration and there's a fuel filter on the pump outlet side.
 I pulled the top off the float bowls while troubleshooting and found
nothing unusual.

I can now pull the top off the carb, remove the dashpot and shoot carb
cleaner down the jet in less than 5 minutes, but I'd like to avoid this.
 I've never experienced this before, and I don't know whether to blame it on
reformulated gas or what.  Each time after shooting the carb cleaner its
back to running perfectly.  I'm planning to disassemble the carbs and check
things out over the winter, but I'm wondering if if anyone's experienced
this before.  I'm hoping to find some explanation.

Thanks, Ben Zwissler
Columbus, IN
bjzwissler at gmail.com

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From bjzwissler at gmail.com  Sat Sep 29 08:06:05 2012
From: bjzwissler at gmail.com (Benjamin Zwissler)
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2012 10:06:05 -0400
Subject: [TR] Troubleshooting HS6 Carb Issue
In-Reply-To: <024AAE9A9C1B4020A400B960F40F916A@bboffice>
References: <CAMHq6Zz7JggVueaUv6NBMjAuEB6aPH+5P_xMJygWbgVKq=HUWA@mail.gmail.com>
	<024AAE9A9C1B4020A400B960F40F916A@bboffice>
Message-ID: <CAMHq6ZwR51gVQ2DUKR8D5xk7=btWj4Mi1ru_1zefCjcpjWtDRQ@mail.gmail.com>

Symptoms are:  Low power, missing, backfiring if you try to accelerate too
hard.  Won't drive at any speed without symptoms, will idle OK.
 Troubleshot ignition and fuel system the first time it happened until carb
cleaner through jet solved it.  Since then each time it occurs the carb
cleaner in the jet solves it immediately.  Scenario is:  Works fine, leave
it sit for a week or ten days, immediately has the problem on starting.
After it happened following sitting over the winter its happened twice when
left for shorter time in summer.  Had a "mild" case a 3rd time, but that
cleared itself with a little driving.  Had the problem on several different
tanks of fuel - each occurrence is separated by several hundred miles of
travel.  Carb pistons travel freely. Good spark and timing is OK.

Ben.....

On Fri, Sep 28, 2012 at 11:13 PM, Wbeech <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:

> Ben,
>
> Please define "running badly".
>
> Is missing?  Real sluggish? Will rev through the RPM range?  Have you
> drained and re-filled the gas tank with fresh fuel?  Have you lifted and
> released the piston/slide to be sure it is travelling all the way up and
> down, with an audible 'clunk' when it hits bottom?  Once you start and run,
> how long until is goes back to 'running badly'?
>
> Inquiring minds need to know,
> All the best,
> Bill
>
> Bill Beecher
> '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
> '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B"
> www.triumphowners.com/1566
> '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
> "If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow"
> M.Andretti
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Benjamin Zwissler
> Sent: Friday, September 28, 2012 9:03 PM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] Troubleshooting HS6 Carb Issue
>
> I've got a new (to me at least) problem and I'm wondering if anyone has
> experienced it.  After sitting over last winter my TR4A with HS6 carbs was
> running badly.  It was stored with Sta-Bil in the gas, but after some
> troubleshooting I determined it was running lean and what fixed it was
> shooting some carb cleaner down the jet tube from the carb throat.  I
> didn't
> think much of it after a winter of storage, but now for the third time this
> season I've had to do the same thing after not driving the car for 10-14
> days.  I generally drive the car pretty regularly, putting 1-2000 miles on
> it this year,but I was travelling for a week and then we've had rain
> (southern Indiana).  There's about 5000 miles on the car since finishing
> restoration.  Everything is stock, including the float valves (no Grose
> jets).  I do use lead substitute in the fuel (no hardened valve seats
> installed and, yes, I regret that).  The fuel tank was cleaned and sealed
> during the restoration and there's a fuel filter on the pump outlet side.
>  I pulled the top off the float bowls while troubleshooting and found
> nothing unusual.
>
> I can now pull the top off the carb, remove the dashpot and shoot carb
> cleaner down the jet in less than 5 minutes, but I'd like to avoid this.
>  I've never experienced this before, and I don't know whether to blame it
> on
> reformulated gas or what.  Each time after shooting the carb cleaner its
> back to running perfectly.  I'm planning to disassemble the carbs and check
> things out over the winter, but I'm wondering if if anyone's experienced
> this before.  I'm hoping to find some explanation.
>
> Thanks, Ben Zwissler
> Columbus, IN
> bjzwissler at gmail.com
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From hdrider570 at att.net  Sat Sep 29 12:44:51 2012
From: hdrider570 at att.net (hdrider570 at att.net)
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2012 11:44:51 -0700
Subject: [TR] Troubleshooting HS6 Carb Issue
Message-ID: <506741A3.8020206@att.net>

I had a similar problem with a TR4.  It was one of the float valves 
sticking closed.  The easy cure is to tap the top of the float
chamber with the handle end of a screw driver.

Near as I can figure it was cause by minute partials of rust mixing with 
the lead substitute gumming up the valves
if they dried out from sitting.  The problem eventually cured itself 
just through driving a lot.  I expect it finally flushed all the 
partials out.

If this is your problem my guess is that removing the top of the carb 
shakes it up enough to free the needle valve.

Edward Hamer
Petaluma CA

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Sep 30 06:16:02 2012
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2012 08:16:02 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Tarbaby Triumph, sort of
Message-ID: <4daf.32873b9.3d999202@cs.com>

The best of both worlds.  You get to work on it and someone else pays for 
it!

Dave

In a message dated 9/28/2012 6:40:34 PM Central Daylight Time, 
mark at bradakis.com writes: 
> Sure enough, I head down there and there sits that TR7 that sat outside 
> that Tunex

From fishplate at charter.net  Sun Sep 30 15:05:23 2012
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff)
Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2012 17:05:23 -0400
Subject: [TR] Clutch shaft questions
Message-ID: <5068B413.80308@charter.net>

Some time back, I read (in several places) about using a TR3 clutch 
shaft in a TR6 to gain the advantage of greasable bushings.  Sounded 
like a good idea...  Here's the page from Buckeye Triumphs about the 
swap: 
http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/clutch/ClutchShaft/ClutchShaft.htm

"The earlier shaft can be used without the locating bolt in the TR250 
and TR6 to provide a means to grease the bushes."

So, I changed the shaft.  And then I put the transmission in the car.  
So far, so good.  But, when I went to hook up the slave cylinder, the 
push rod would not align.  It's offset by the width of the yoke.  It 
fits perfectly if it's pinned to the side of the lever instead of over it.

Anybody done this switch, that can advise me where I went wrong?  (Other 
than believing something I read on teh Interwebs, anyway)

I still have the old shaft, and it's in good shape.  Barring any other 
advice, I'll slip the transmission back and replace the new shaft with 
the old one.  *sigh*  I'd rather be driving...

Also, while reading up on this, I discovered there's supposed to be a 
spring on the shaft?  Important?  Magic?  Will any simple spring do?

TIA,
Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Sep 30 23:02:34 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2012 22:02:34 -0700
Subject: [TR] 10Si alternator application
Message-ID: <094b01cd9f91$f8535ea0$0601a8c0@randall>

Hi Folks,

I'm trying to help someone that wants to do the venerable GM 10Si alternator
conversion on a TR4.  He would like to know a specific GM application for
the donor alternator (to get the right terminal orientation, etc).

Anyone know offhand?

-- Randall