From spamiam at comcast.net  Mon Oct  1 05:28:09 2012
From: spamiam at comcast.net (Anthony Rhodes)
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2012 07:28:09 -0400
Subject: [TR] C40 generators
In-Reply-To: <mailman.9.1349028002.31666.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.9.1349028002.31666.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <325699CC-88D4-411A-BF66-E447F741A656@comcast.net>

Apparently the generator and voltage regulator for the TR2-4A evolved over
tone. Initially they were rated for 19 ps, then later rated for 22A. Are there
any model numbers to distinguish which generator is which?  And which
regulator is which?

Internally how we're they different?  I once thought that there was no change
in the generator, it was just pushed a little harder by the regulator. But I
have not clearly identified a difference between older and newer regulators
relay windings.  Recently a friend noted a possible difference between
generator armature windings. One had 5 turns of a pair of wires for each
commutator terminal while another had 6 turns. Could 5 turns be for 22A and
6turns for 19A?

I have 2 spare generators both are stamped Lucas and C40-1. One seems to be
dated 1965 and the other 1976.

-Tony

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 30, 2012, at 2:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

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> Today's Topics:
>
>   1. Re: Troubleshooting HS6 Carb Issue (hdrider570 at att.net)
>   2. Re: Tarbaby Triumph, sort of (Dave1massey at cs.com)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2012 11:44:51 -0700
> From: "hdrider570 at att.net" <hdrider570 at att.net>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] Troubleshooting HS6 Carb Issue
> Message-ID: <506741A3.8020206 at att.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> I had a similar problem with a TR4.  It was one of the float valves
> sticking closed.  The easy cure is to tap the top of the float
> chamber with the handle end of a screw driver.
>
> Near as I can figure it was cause by minute partials of rust mixing with
> the lead substitute gumming up the valves
> if they dried out from sitting.  The problem eventually cured itself
> just through driving a lot.  I expect it finally flushed all the
> partials out.
>
> If this is your problem my guess is that removing the top of the carb
> shakes it up enough to free the needle valve.
>
> Edward Hamer
> Petaluma CA
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2012 08:16:02 -0400 (EDT)
> From: Dave1massey at cs.com
> To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] Tarbaby Triumph, sort of
> Message-ID: <4daf.32873b9.3d999202 at cs.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> The best of both worlds.  You get to work on it and someone else pays for
> it!
>
> Dave
>
> In a message dated 9/28/2012 6:40:34 PM Central Daylight Time,
> mark at bradakis.com writes:
>> Sure enough, I head down there and there sits that TR7 that sat outside
>> that Tunex
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Triumphs mailing list
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 5, Issue 394
> ****************************************

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Oct  1 07:59:23 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2012 06:59:23 -0700
Subject: [TR] C40 generators
In-Reply-To: <325699CC-88D4-411A-BF66-E447F741A656@comcast.net>
References: <mailman.9.1349028002.31666.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<325699CC-88D4-411A-BF66-E447F741A656@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <095501cd9fdc$f6594740$0601a8c0@randall>

The 19 amp generator was model C39PV/2, part 22258x.  The main housing is
slightly smaller diameter than the later C40 but the mounting points are the
same (making them interchangeable as complete units even though the parts
are different).  ISTR that at least some of the C40s had a step in the
housing but I could be mistaken on that point.  I don't know if it would
apply to all Lucas units, but at least for the Triumph application, the C39
had screw terminals while the C40 had 'Lucar' quick connects.  I don't know
if they were electrically different or not, it may have been just that the
larger armature cooled better.  The C39 will easily put out 22 amps (or
more), but will eventually overheat at that current.

Very early control boxes were RB106/1, but early RB106/2 were also for the
19 amp generator, part number 37182x.  My documentation shows part number
37283x and 37290x for the 22 amp version (which again had Lucar instead of
screw terminals).  Again I'm not certain if there was any electrical
difference, but the "open circuit voltage" specification went up by 0.4
volts.  I grabbed one of each out of the parts bin and they definitely have
the same number of current turns on the regulator relay, but there might be
a change in the number of voltage turns (which are inside a plastic sleeve
and hard to see).

-- Randall  

From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Mon Oct  1 08:11:06 2012
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (jerryvv at roadrunner.com)
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2012 10:11:06 -0400
Subject: [TR] 10Si alternator application
In-Reply-To: <094b01cd9f91$f8535ea0$0601a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <20121001141106.96SQU.283362.root@hrndva-web19-z02>

I seem to recall mine is a 1980 Camaro and the clock position is around 5 O'clock installed.

I have a new question for the group. There is a small Alternator that puts out around 40 amps, does anyone know that application? I'd rather not have the single wire style but if that's all that is available then OK.

JVV

---- Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote: 
> Hi Folks,
> 
> I'm trying to help someone that wants to do the venerable GM 10Si alternator
> conversion on a TR4.  He would like to know a specific GM application for
> the donor alternator (to get the right terminal orientation, etc).
> 
> Anyone know offhand?
> 
> -- Randall 
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jerryvv at roadrunner.com

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Mon Oct  1 08:24:49 2012
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Mon, 01 Oct 2012 07:24:49 -0700
Subject: [TR] 10Si alternator application
In-Reply-To: <094b01cd9f91$f8535ea0$0601a8c0@randall>
References: <094b01cd9f91$f8535ea0$0601a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <5069A7B1.7080306@gmail.com>

On 9/30/12 10:02 PM, Randall wrote:
> Hi Folks,
>
> I'm trying to help someone that wants to do the venerable GM 10Si alternator
> conversion on a TR4.  He would like to know a specific GM application for
> the donor alternator (to get the right terminal orientation, etc).
>
> Anyone know offhand?
>
I have a web page covering the alternator which gives some applications.

http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/Delco_Alternators.html

  Land Rovers like 3 O'clock rotations so most of my applications are 
for that orientation, but I have a couple at 9 O'clock.

TeriAnn

From spamiam at comcast.net  Mon Oct  1 08:36:00 2012
From: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2012 14:36:00 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] C40 generators
In-Reply-To: <095501cd9fdc$f6594740$0601a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <1513298378.2572694.1349102160138.JavaMail.root@sz0135a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Randall,



Thanks for the GREAT info.B  I had not known that the C39 was the "19 amp"
version.B  I had noticed the step down in the case diameter in the C40, and I
presume it was to be used in some retrofit situations for the C39, and needed
the clearance.



It makes sense that the came compensated regulator unit could be used for 19
amps or 22 amps just by increasing the regulated voltage (and therefore
current) b y a little.B  This results in more overcharging by day, but less
discharging by night.



I have a few donor RB106 units.B  Some are pretty old (1950's) and I will see
if I can compare to newer ones If I have any on the voltage alone B vs
voltage+ current action.



I am not thrilled at all by the overcharging that occurs by day when using
"maintenance-free" batteries!!!B  I am not a fan of the entire "compensated"
design.



-Tony



----- Original Message -----


From: "Randall" <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: "Anthony Rhodes" <spamiam at comcast.net>, triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, October 1, 2012 9:59:23 AM
Subject: RE: [TR] C40 generators

The 19 amp generator was model C39PV/2, part 22258x. B The main housing is
slightly smaller diameter than the later C40 but the mounting points are the
same (making them interchangeable as complete units even though the parts
are different). B ISTR that at least some of the C40s had a step in the
housing but I could be mistaken on that point. B I don't know if it would
apply to all Lucas units, but at least for the Triumph application, the C39
had screw terminals while the C40 had 'Lucar' quick connects. B I don't know
if they were electrically different or not, it may have been just that the
larger armature cooled better. B The C39 will easily put out 22 amps (or
more), but will eventually overheat at that current.

Very early control boxes were RB106/1, but early RB106/2 were also for the
19 amp generator, part number 37182x. B My documentation shows part number
37283x and 37290x for the 22 amp version (which again had Lucar instead of
screw terminals). B Again I'm not certain if there was any electrical
difference, but the "open circuit voltage" specification went up by 0.4
volts. B I grabbed one of each out of the parts bin and they definitely have
the same number of current turns on the regulator relay, but there might be
a change in the number of voltage turns (which are inside a plastic sleeve
and hard to see).

-- Randall B 

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Oct  1 09:31:56 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2012 08:31:56 -0700
Subject: [TR] 10Si alternator application
In-Reply-To: <20121001141106.96SQU.283362.root@hrndva-web19-z02>
References: <094b01cd9f91$f8535ea0$0601a8c0@randall>
	<20121001141106.96SQU.283362.root@hrndva-web19-z02>
Message-ID: <098401cd9fe9$e4617140$0601a8c0@randall>

Thanks, Jerry, I'll pass that along.

> There is a small 
> Alternator that puts out around 40 amps, does anyone know 
> that application?

Chris "Mad" Marx told me that his came from an 89 Suzuki Swift.
Unfortunately my FLAPS didn't have that one in stock, and I don't know the
application for the unit they sold me.  It is not a single wire design,
there are 3 control tabs as well as the main output.  I haven't researched
yet what they are, but I'm guessing that one is for the dash light, one is
battery sense (which you could just wire to the output if you want, I will
wire it to the starter solenoid), and the third needs to get power from the
ignition circuit.  That seems to be what most of the Japanese alternators
use.

-- Randall  

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Suzuki Swift alternator on TR4 - MadMarx.jpg]

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Oct  1 09:56:04 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2012 08:56:04 -0700
Subject: [TR] 10Si alternator application
In-Reply-To: <5069A7B1.7080306@gmail.com>
References: <094b01cd9f91$f8535ea0$0601a8c0@randall>
	<5069A7B1.7080306@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <098901cd9fed$4368ce60$0601a8c0@randall>

>   Land Rovers like 3 O'clock rotations so most of my applications are 
> for that orientation, but I have a couple at 9 O'clock.

Thanks, TeriAnn.  Wouldn't 3 o'clock also be the most appropriate for a
TR3/4 ?  Seems like that would position the wires the farthest away from the
exhaust manifold.

-- Randall  

From hdrider570 at att.net  Mon Oct  1 12:24:00 2012
From: hdrider570 at att.net (Q)
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2012 11:24:00 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] 10Si alternator application
Message-ID: <1349115840.77458.YahooMailClassic@web184303.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Just as a note it is very simple to change the "Clocking" of most alternators.  It is just a matter of removing the long bolts that hold the two halves of body together, separating slightly, and turning the bodies to the desired position.

This is a very common procedure for American made cars.

Edward Hamer
Petaluma CA

From jmaneke at centurytel.net  Mon Oct  1 15:08:39 2012
From: jmaneke at centurytel.net (John  Maneke)
Date: Mon, 01 Oct 2012 17:08:39 -0400
Subject: [TR] 10Si alternator application
Message-ID: <20121001170839.9vx3q6yn6i0o088s@webmail2.centurytel.net>

Any GM 10si alternator will work. The clocking of the alternator can be 
changed simply by undoing the four bolts that hold the two halves 
together and rotating the rear to whatever position that you need. Be 
it 12, 3, 6 or 9 o'clock. This made the alternator extremely cheap for 
GM to use as it covered all there cars during it's use. For more info 
go to this site. 
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/delcoremy.shtml
John Maneke

Quoting Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>:
> Hi Folks,
>
> I'm trying to help someone that wants to do the venerable GM 10Si alternator
> conversion on a TR4.  He would like to know a specific GM application for
> the donor alternator (to get the right terminal orientation, etc). 
>
> Anyone know offhand?
>
> -- Randall
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jmaneke at centurytel.net

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Mon Oct  1 16:03:34 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2012 15:03:34 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] 10Si alternator application
In-Reply-To: <094b01cd9f91$f8535ea0$0601a8c0@randall>
References: <094b01cd9f91$f8535ea0$0601a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <1349129014.67997.YahooMailNeo@web120003.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Randall
thought id share my experiences of fitting the GM alternator on
two-TR3's.
 
my first experience was with buddy Paul's car. he had bought a
"kit" off Ebay.
it simply bolted on to the standard triumph generator bracket
and adjusting bracket. the problem we later found with this approach was that
there was no support for the rear of the alternator. consequently when we
tensioned the belt we pulled the alternator out of plane. the belt then rubbed
against the side of the pulley and we suffered premature wear and loss of the
belt at the most inopportune time.
Paul's conversion came with a machined
front pulley for the wide belt.
building a bracket to support the rear of the
alternator is a little tricky but certainly not out of your realm. you will
see the mounting hole on the back is not in line with the front. your new rear
bracket must have a slotted adjustment hole.
 
when i put an alternator in my
TR3 i used the pulley off the standard generator. machined it to fit and built
a special nut.
but in doing so i pushed the pulley forward of the rest of the
pulleys by about 3/16". so i was forced to grind off some of the aluminum
mounting tab of the alternator.
again i build a slotted support for the back
of the alternator.
 
Frank
 

From: Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>
To:
triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2012 10:02 PM
Subject:
[TR] 10Si alternator application

Hi Folks,

I'm trying to help someone that
wants to do the venerable GM 10Si alternator
conversion on a TR4.  He would
like to know a specific GM application for
the donor alternator (to get the
right terminal orientation, etc).

Anyone know offhand?

-- Randall 

**
triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Mon Oct  1 16:15:43 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2012 15:15:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] 10Si alternator application
In-Reply-To: <1349129014.67997.YahooMailNeo@web120003.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <094b01cd9f91$f8535ea0$0601a8c0@randall>
	<1349129014.67997.YahooMailNeo@web120003.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1349129743.11036.YahooMailNeo@web120004.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

thinking about it i did not have a slotted bracket. old man memory here.
i
made a part of the new bracket fit tight against the alternator so it would
not rotate.
the bracket then fit the back of the standard block bracket. but
its a PIA to get the nut and bolt back there and as i recall i could not get a
nice long one piece bolt to fit.
if i need to i can stick my camera down there
and shoot some pics for you.
Frank

From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>
To: Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>; Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Sent:
Monday, October 1, 2012 3:03 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] 10Si alternator application
Randall
thought id share my experiences of fitting the GM alternator on
two-TR3's.

my first experience was with buddy Paul's car. he had bought a
"kit" off Ebay.
it simply bolted on to the standard triumph generator bracket
and adjusting bracket. the problem we later found with this approach was that
there was no support for the rear of the alternator. consequently when we
tensioned the belt we pulled the alternator out of plane. the belt then rubbed
against the side of the pulley and we suffered premature wear and loss of the
belt at the most inopportune time.
Paul's conversion came with a machined
front pulley for the wide belt.
building a bracket to support the rear of the
alternator is a little tricky but certainly not out of your realm. you will
see the mounting hole on the back is not in line with the front. your new rear
bracket must have a slotted adjustment hole.

when i put an alternator in my
TR3 i used the pulley off the standard generator. machined it to fit and built
a special nut.
but in doing so i pushed the pulley forward of the rest of the
pulleys by about 3/16". so i was forced to grind off some of the aluminum
mounting tab of the alternator.
again i build a slotted support for the back
of the alternator.

Frank


From: Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>
To:
triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2012 10:02 PM
Subject:
[TR] 10Si alternator application

Hi Folks,

I'm trying to help someone that
wants to do the venerable GM 10Si alternator
conversion on a TR4.  He would
like to know a specific GM application for
the donor alternator (to get the
right terminal orientation, etc).

Anyone know offhand?

-- Randall 

**
triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com

**
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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Oct  1 16:22:40 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2012 18:22:40 -0400
Subject: [TR] 10Si alternator application
In-Reply-To: <20121001170839.9vx3q6yn6i0o088s@webmail2.centurytel.net>
Message-ID: <20121001222240.I5IZY.107280.root@cdptpa-web19-z01>

> Any GM 10si alternator will work. The clocking of the alternator can be 
> changed simply by undoing the four bolts that hold the two halves 

Thanks, John.  I am aware of that, however some people are intimidated by the thought of disassembling a freshly rebuilt alternator (possibly voiding the warranty) before finding out if it works.  Others may be intimidated just by the thought of disassembling the unit and potentially having parts fall out, brushes spring out of their holder, etc.  Since this step can be avoided by simply knowing what words to say at the parts store, it seems like a reasonable question to ask.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Oct  1 16:27:32 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2012 18:27:32 -0400
Subject: [TR] 10Si alternator application
Message-ID: <20121001222732.8RI2X.107309.root@cdptpa-web19-z01>

> Any GM 10si alternator will work. The clocking of the alternator can be 
> changed simply by undoing the four bolts that hold the two halves 

Thanks, John.  I am aware of that, however some people are intimidated by the thought of disassembling a freshly rebuilt alternator (possibly voiding the warranty) before finding out if it works.  Others may be intimidated just by the thought of disassembling the unit and potentially having parts fall out, brushes spring out of their holder, etc.  Since this step can be avoided by simply knowing what words to say at the parts store, it seems like a reasonable question to ask.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Oct  1 16:31:10 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2012 18:31:10 -0400
Subject: [TR] 10Si alternator application
Message-ID: <20121001223110.N0HWC.107338.root@cdptpa-web19-z01>

> Any GM 10si alternator will work. The clocking of the alternator can be 
> changed simply by undoing the four bolts that hold the two halves 

Thanks, John.  I am aware of that, however some people are intimidated by the thought of disassembling a freshly rebuilt alternator (possibly voiding the warranty) before finding out if it works.  Others may be intimidated just by the thought of disassembling the unit and potentially having parts fall out, brushes spring out of their holder, etc.  Since this step can be avoided by simply knowing what words to say at the parts store, it seems like a reasonable question to ask.

Randall

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Mon Oct  1 18:45:37 2012
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2012 20:45:37 -0400
Subject: [TR] Rocker Arm
Message-ID: <BLU168-W32CB22096CB391CA7E3A80BA860@phx.gbl>

Many years ago I had a set of TR6 rockers rebuilt. I was thinking the place
was called ROCKER ARM EXCHANGE" but I must be wrong because I cannot find
anything under that name. Any suggestions?

Thanks,

From blambert at socal.rr.com  Mon Oct  1 18:46:59 2012
From: blambert at socal.rr.com (D&B Lambert)
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2012 17:46:59 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A Overheating
In-Reply-To: <20121001223110.N0HWC.107338.root@cdptpa-web19-z01>
References: <20121001223110.N0HWC.107338.root@cdptpa-web19-z01>
Message-ID: <3E706126DE914397A3B43CD2EEBBBBCB@Lambert1>

All,
Just to got home from Triumphest.  Had a great time.  Now for the question:
For the first time in 12 years my TR3A overheated on a couple of the grades
going south out of Las Vegas.  I finally had to stop in Hesperia for an hour
to let things cool down.  Yes, it was hot, and I was pushing pretty hard,
but it's never been a problem before.  I'm imagining that the radiator must
be getting crudded up.  It's an original radiator, still with the crank
hole, and was rodded about 10 years ago.   I'm thinking it's finally time to
replace it.  My choices are: 1) getting the original re-rodded, 2) having a
local radiator shop install a modern core, or 3) buying a new aluminum
radiator from one of the big three.  Keeping the crank hole is not important
for me; the only use I have had for it was to use the crank when adjusting
the valves (for that it's pretty handy).  I have no experience, but have
been told by more than one person that the repro's from the usual suspects
are not, um, exactly great.  Is that true?
I know we've already had the copper vs aluminum debate (once or twice), so
I'm not trying to start that discussion here - I'm looking for "been there,
done that" stories.  I need some help making up my mind which way to go.
Thanks, Dennis

From mark at bradakis.com  Mon Oct  1 19:14:05 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Mon, 01 Oct 2012 19:14:05 -0600
Subject: [TR] Rocker Arm
In-Reply-To: <BLU168-W32CB22096CB391CA7E3A80BA860@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU168-W32CB22096CB391CA7E3A80BA860@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <506A3FDD.3080406@bradakis.com>

Did you check the Monster list at http://www.dimebank.com/monster for a 
listing?

mjb.

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Mon Oct  1 19:11:51 2012
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2012 20:11:51 -0500
Subject: [TR] Rocker Arm
In-Reply-To: <BLU168-W32CB22096CB391CA7E3A80BA860@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU168-W32CB22096CB391CA7E3A80BA860@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <EF41BEDEC8F648CB99D5323145DE0FBB@GregPC>

Rocker Arm Specialists? who I think now have morphed into rockerarms.com ot 
something like that?

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Mon Oct  1 20:52:53 2012
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2012 22:52:53 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3A Overheating
Message-ID: <865a.3eb37fbd.3d9bb105@aol.com>

Hi Dennis; I had exactly the same problem and decided to sort everything in 
 one fell swoop. 
 
I had the radiator recored with a thicker core and no starter handle hole.  
I only did this because I had fitted a gear-reduction starter, which is far 
more  reliable than the bomb starter I had before. I then added the 
upgraded water  pump from The Roadster Factory which, in my opinion, is a fabulous 
piece of kit.  I also added the TR6 cooling fan conversion, as I didn't want 
an electric fan  (but beware it requires a TR6 fan from an era of TR6 where 
the fan is  slightly different and no longer available. I found a used one 
from a used  British car specialist in PA. The car now runs beautifully 
cool, even in hot 30+  degree celsius temperatures. If you have any other 
questions, let me know.
 
Tim
 
 
 
In a message dated 01/10/2012 8:50:45 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
blambert at socal.rr.com writes:

All,
Just to got home from Triumphest.  Had a great  time.  Now for the question:
For the first time in 12 years my TR3A  overheated on a couple of the grades
going south out of Las Vegas.  I  finally had to stop in Hesperia for an 
hour
to let things cool down.   Yes, it was hot, and I was pushing pretty hard,
but it's never been a  problem before.  I'm imagining that the radiator must
be getting  crudded up.  It's an original radiator, still with the crank
hole, and  was rodded about 10 years ago.   I'm thinking it's finally time  
to
replace it.  My choices are: 1) getting the original re-rodded, 2)  having a
local radiator shop install a modern core, or 3) buying a new  aluminum
radiator from one of the big three.  Keeping the crank hole  is not 
important
for me; the only use I have had for it was to use the  crank when adjusting
the valves (for that it's pretty handy).  I have  no experience, but have
been told by more than one person that the repro's  from the usual suspects
are not, um, exactly great.  Is that  true?
I know we've already had the copper vs aluminum debate (once or  twice), so
I'm not trying to start that discussion here - I'm looking for  "been there,
done that" stories.  I need some help making up my mind  which way to go.
Thanks, Dennis

** triumphs at autox.team.net  **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Oct  1 21:07:10 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2012 23:07:10 -0400
Subject: [TR] Rocker Arm
In-Reply-To: <BLU168-W32CB22096CB391CA7E3A80BA860@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <20121002030711.34AHU.109021.root@cdptpa-web19-z01>

Any chance you are thinking of:

Rocker Arm Specialist
19841 Hirsch Court
Anderson, CA 96007
Tel (530) 378-1075
(800)747-2767
fax (530) 378-1177
mailto:rocker at c-zone.net
http://www.rockerarms.com/index.htm

It has been a few years now, but I was very pleased with the work they did on my TR3A rocker shaft.  The cost was modest as well, roughly the same I would have paid for just the parts.  All new adjusters, locknuts, springs, bushings and the shaft itself.  The rockers I'm not certain about, they certainly looked new.  Only the pedestals, end caps and locking screw were clearly the original parts.  (They had been nicely cleaned up, but not remachined or anything.)

I've lost track of how many miles I've got on that rocker shaft; the only issue I have ever had is that the roll pin they used on the rear cap started to work it's way out (which I discovered when I moved it from the wrecked 3A to the current TR3).  I replaced it with a stock solid pin and all seems to be well.

Randall

From aribertn at gmail.com  Mon Oct  1 21:33:14 2012
From: aribertn at gmail.com (aribert neumann)
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2012 23:33:14 -0400
Subject: [TR] Nippondenso mini alternator (coffee can, racing, etc alt)
Message-ID: <CAGkVM29wigSwvkh5tKGGOsjDNfdE2afBFywR9+ia9Uaimmj66g@mail.gmail.com>

Following up on the thread below - the Suzuki Swift alternator.  A number
of racing catalogs list a small light weight alt for big $$.  I bought an
e-bay  one (didn't know it was Chinese until I received it).  Earlier this
Summer I happened upon the Sideways Forums (
http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php/forum/1-technical-discussion-boards/
),found the Small Triumph archived folder and started reading the posts and
found several articles referring to the mini Denso alt and recognised the
alt as looking like the one I bought off e-Bay.  I suspect that this is the
small Nippondenso alternator.

>From my reading, the smallest of the alt came with Japanese mini cars at
about 40 amp.  Same alt, but only 25 amp, found on Kubota tractors.  Some
links:
http://crazyspitfire.blogspot.com/2006/05/22-kilo-saving-alternator-joys.html
http://westfield-world.com/daihatsu_alternator.html (has wiring diagram)

I was at a pick & pull type of salvage yard and found an 85 Honda Civic
with what I thought was the mini alt.  Once I had it removed, it was the
same pattern but a size bigger.

BTW, every so often the discussion comes up about dismantling frt brake
calipers (and how the caliper bolts are sacred - don't undo them).  Some of
our Triumph brethren on the other side of the pond are splitting the
calipers to put spacers between in order to run vented rotors.




---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: "Randall" <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: <jerryvv at roadrunner.com>, <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Cc:
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2012 08:31:56 -0700
Subject: Re: [TR] 10Si alternator application
Thanks, Jerry, I'll pass that along.

> There is a small
> Alternator that puts out around 40 amps, does anyone know
> that application?

Chris "Mad" Marx told me that his came from an 89 Suzuki Swift.
Unfortunately my FLAPS didn't have that one in stock, and I don't know the
application for the unit they sold me.  It is not a single wire design,
there are 3 control tabs as well as the main output.  I haven't researched
yet what they are, but I'm guessing that one is for the dash light, one is
battery sense (which you could just wire to the output if you want, I will
wire it to the starter solenoid), and the third needs to get power from the
ignition circuit.  That seems to be what most of the Japanese alternators
use.

-- Randall

From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com  Mon Oct  1 23:26:21 2012
From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly)
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2012 22:26:21 -0700
Subject: [TR] Uff Da at Triumphest 2012
Message-ID: <00c501cda05e$754f1760$5fed4620$@rr.com>

Wow, what a week. Last Tuesday, while loading my TR4A on the trailer
preparing for TRFest, I separated the muffler system. Sounded cool, but
don't think the cops would like it, and was fixable. I'll wait until
Flagstaff since it was 7 PM and I had other packing to do.

 

Around 9 PM my wife Pattie and I are watching TV and says she smells gas.
The tie down straps pinched a fuel line that dumped a half a tank of gas on
the ground. Yikes. Ten pounds of kitty litter was our savior.  Wednesday
morning I was at O'Reillys when they opened getting 5/16" fuel line.

 

So, finally got to Flagstaff and the muffler and fuel line are fixed. I was
tinkering with my car when  Jerry Fisher, who's 80, walked up and said the
motor blew on his 2000 and it's still in Blythe. The symptoms are clanking
noises, oil everywhere and a lot of black smoke.

 

Blythe? OMG. If you don't know where Blythe is, think of the gates to hell
(GTH), only worse. So, Jerry deservedly got the Uff Da award at Triumphest.
Anyway, I told Jerry we could pick his car up on the way home, put it on the
trailer and I'd drive my car back to San Diego. OK, we had a plan. We left
Flagstaff Sunday morning after another great Triumphest. I love the pine
trees.

 

Along the way Jerry started to get groin pains. I'm blaming the Starbucks we
stopped at just outside of Flagstaff. Anyway, the further we went the more
pain Jerry was in. 

 

Got to the GTH, and was off-loading my car when it bottomed out and
separated the muffler again. Damn.   Now we have two broken cars. Anyway, we
got Jerry's car loaded on the trailer. It was 106 deg outside. I think I
lost 10 pounds. Said "screw it" and we went to get lunch, somewhere with air
conditioning.  I didn't want to get outside and fix the muffler again so I
started to look for a place to fix it.  Roberto's Taco's and Tires was as
close as I could come to an open garage on Sunday in GTH, so I decided to
fix it myself and lose another 10 pounds. Jerry's groin pains were getting
worse.

 

Now, Pattie is driving the truck and trailer with the 2000 on it, Jerry and
his wife Betty are inside, while I'm ahead running the TR in 106 deg heat
through Desert Center, 104 through Indio and 103 through Palm Desert. Hey,
it's getting cooler. But, the water bottles are too hot to drink. My TR
starts losing oil and the pressure starts dropping. 60, 50, 40. Crap.  Stop
at a rest stop outside of Palm Springs. Oil's coming out of the dip stick in
volumes. What a mess. Pattie tells me to wrap a shop towel around the dip
stick, jamb it in, and I obey. Added two quarts  of oil and pressed on.
Jerry's pain's worse and has to knell on the floorboards because he can't
sit.

 

We originally planned to drop off the 2000 at the mechanics that evening.
About 25 miles north of San Diego Pattie calls me and says we have a change
of plans. We're headed to Grossmont Hospital instead. Go faster. We get
there. Try finding a parking spot for a truck and trailer, and a TR dumping
oil. Good luck.

 

It's now 9 PM and  Jerry's granddaughter arrives, so Pattie and I leave
knowing they're in good hands.  I nurse my TR into our driveway as Pattie
eases the truck/trailer/2000 in front of our house. 10 PM, 14 hours from
when we started. Surprisingly, I felt good.

 

I just talked to Jerry this evening and he's OK. Something was blocked. Damn
that Starbucks! Betty's relieved. Jerry's car is still on the trailer. We'll
take it to the mechanic tomorrow. Mine will get worked on this weekend.

 

But, we're all home and alive, and that's what counts. The TR's are another
story. Uff Da.

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Oct  2 06:05:40 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2012 05:05:40 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A Overheating
In-Reply-To: <3E706126DE914397A3B43CD2EEBBBBCB@Lambert1>
References: <20121001223110.N0HWC.107338.root@cdptpa-web19-z01>
	<3E706126DE914397A3B43CD2EEBBBBCB@Lambert1>
Message-ID: <0a5d01cda096$3e02ec90$0601a8c0@randall>

FWIW, I went the recore route and I'm very pleased with the result.  Didn't
make it to TRfest this year, as I still haven't got the rear axle rebuilt
yet (and I don't trust the one I'm running for long trips); but I have gone
out in the desert with it several times.  110F ambient and the gauge never
went higher than the '5' in '185' (which is where my fan comes on) except
once when I came to a stop light after running 70+ mph for some time it
crept a bit higher before the light turned green.

I did have the radiator shop make several improvements:

No crank hole (which they said would increase cooling by about 10% since the
crank hole actually blocks off the tubes completely).

Installed a modern filler neck (so I can buy caps in various pressures at
FLAPS).  ISTR I've got a 10 psi "Lev-R-Vent" cap on there, but maybe it's 7
psi.  I don't really need the increased pressure now, but I like having the
lever so haven't bothered to change it.

Added reinforcement around the extension tank, and inlet fitting.  I've had
the joint to the extension crack several times in the past so I wanted to
stop that.  And after several failures of the reproduction upper hoses, I'm
running the heavy duty Gates upper hose, which had me worried about cracking
the upper fitting.  The reinforcement was simply a length of small copper
tubing, shaped and soldered to both the upper tank and the
extension/fitting, but so far it seems to work well.  The shop I use works
on a lot of old cars and they say this technique has always worked for them.
Painted black, it is nearly invisible on the car.  There is a photo of the
extension reinforcement at
http://goo.gl/Tnj9q but I forgot to take a photo of the inlet.

They also soldered on some brackets to hold the Hayden electric fan.

I've kind of lost track, but ISTR the core was about $300 installed this
time, plus tax and another $30 or so for the "improvements".  This is the
radiator (well, tanks and frame at least) that was in TS39781LO when it came
to me in 1984 and might have been original to it.  With the new core, and no
longer any need to run stop-leak all the time, I'm confident it will be good
for another 20 years at least.  If I can remember to keep the coolant
changed, anyway.

Still the standard water pump, bypass not blocked at all and an ordinary
"unsleeved" 185F thermostat.  I did add a TR4 style recovery bottle when I
had the apron off last, tucked in between the radiator and inner fender.
That way I don't have to wonder if I'm losing coolant, the radiator stays
full to the top all the time instead of the extension being only half full
or less.

-- Randall  

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Tue Oct  2 07:02:46 2012
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2012 06:02:46 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A Overheating
In-Reply-To: <3E706126DE914397A3B43CD2EEBBBBCB@Lambert1>
References: <20121001223110.N0HWC.107338.root@cdptpa-web19-z01>
	<3E706126DE914397A3B43CD2EEBBBBCB@Lambert1>
Message-ID: <506AE5F6.4090502@gmail.com>

On 10/1/12 5:46 PM, D&B Lambert wrote:
> All,
> Just to got home from Triumphest.  Had a great time.  Now for the question:
> For the first time in 12 years my TR3A overheated on a couple of the grades
> going south out of Las Vegas.

I suggest that the first thing you should do is flush the coolant 
passages of your engine and and either have the radiator recored  or 
rodded.  A recore without the crank hole will provide better cooling.  
It could well be just a sediment build up in the block water passages.  
It could be that your stock cooling system just has a sediment build up 
and will do the job after a good "scrubbing". None of those fan, water 
pump or radiator suggestions will help if there is sediment in the block 
& head water passages.

I'm assuming that you have your cardboard air dam in place around the 
radiator.

TeriAnn

Who thanks the Triumphest host club for bringing Triumphest almost to my 
door step in Flagstaff.  Had a wonderful time.

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Tue Oct  2 07:05:58 2012
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2012 06:05:58 -0700
Subject: [TR] Rocker Arm
In-Reply-To: <BLU168-W32CB22096CB391CA7E3A80BA860@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU168-W32CB22096CB391CA7E3A80BA860@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <506AE6B6.7000102@gmail.com>

On 10/1/12 5:45 PM, marty sukey wrote:
> Many years ago I had a set of TR6 rockers rebuilt. I was thinking the place
> was called ROCKER ARM EXCHANGE" but I must be wrong because I cannot find
> anything under that name. Any suggestions?
Most any automotive machine shop can radius rocker arm ends and ream out 
new rocker arm bushings.  I just bought new bushings and a new rocker 
shaft and took them over to my local automotive machine shop.

TeriAnn

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Tue Oct  2 09:21:25 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2012 08:21:25 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3A Overheating
In-Reply-To: <0a5d01cda096$3e02ec90$0601a8c0@randall>
References: <20121001223110.N0HWC.107338.root@cdptpa-web19-z01>
	<3E706126DE914397A3B43CD2EEBBBBCB@Lambert1>
	<0a5d01cda096$3e02ec90$0601a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <1349191285.16786.YahooMailNeo@web120003.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Dennis
if you do decide to have the radiator worked on, you are welcome to one
of my old ones.
that way you can continue to enjoy driving the TR while the
radiator guy misses yet another promised finish date.
Frank

From: Randall
<TR3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: 'D&B Lambert' <blambert at socal.rr.com>; 'Triumph
list' <Triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Tuesday, October 2, 2012 5:05 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Overheating

FWIW, I went the recore route and I'm very
pleased with the result.  Didn't
make it to TRfest this year, as I still
haven't got the rear axle rebuilt
yet (and I don't trust the one I'm running
for long trips); but I have gone
out in the desert with it several times. 
110F ambient and the gauge never
went higher than the '5' in '185' (which is
where my fan comes on) except
once when I came to a stop light after running
70+ mph for some time it
crept a bit higher before the light turned green.

I
did have the radiator shop make several improvements:

No crank hole (which
they said would increase cooling by about 10% since the
crank hole actually
blocks off the tubes completely).

Installed a modern filler neck (so I can
buy caps in various pressures at
FLAPS).  ISTR I've got a 10 psi "Lev-R-Vent"
cap on there, but maybe it's 7
psi.  I don't really need the increased
pressure now, but I like having the
lever so haven't bothered to change it.
Added reinforcement around the extension tank, and inlet fitting.  I've had
the joint to the extension crack several times in the past so I wanted to
stop
that.  And after several failures of the reproduction upper hoses, I'm
running
the heavy duty Gates upper hose, which had me worried about cracking
the upper
fitting.  The reinforcement was simply a length of small copper
tubing, shaped
and soldered to both the upper tank and the
extension/fitting, but so far it
seems to work well.  The shop I use works
on a lot of old cars and they say
this technique has always worked for them.
Painted black, it is nearly
invisible on the car.  There is a photo of the
extension reinforcement at
http://goo.gl/Tnj9q but I forgot to take a photo of the inlet.

They also
soldered on some brackets to hold the Hayden electric fan.

I've kind of lost
track, but ISTR the core was about $300 installed this
time, plus tax and
another $30 or so for the "improvements".  This is the
radiator (well, tanks
and frame at least) that was in TS39781LO when it came
to me in 1984 and might
have been original to it.  With the new core, and no
longer any need to run
stop-leak all the time, I'm confident it will be good
for another 20 years at
least.  If I can remember to keep the coolant
changed, anyway.

Still the
standard water pump, bypass not blocked at all and an ordinary
"unsleeved"
185F thermostat.  I did add a TR4 style recovery bottle when I
had the apron
off last, tucked in between the radiator and inner fender.
That way I don't
have to wonder if I'm losing coolant, the radiator stays
full to the top all
the time instead of the extension being only half full
or less.

-- Randall 
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Tue Oct  2 09:52:40 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2012 08:52:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Nippondenso mini alternator (coffee can, racing, etc  alt)
In-Reply-To: <CAGkVM29wigSwvkh5tKGGOsjDNfdE2afBFywR9+ia9Uaimmj66g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAGkVM29wigSwvkh5tKGGOsjDNfdE2afBFywR9+ia9Uaimmj66g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1349193160.58203.YahooMailNeo@web120001.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

 Some of
our Triumph brethren on the other side of the pond are splitting the
calipers to put spacers between in order to run vented rotors.
 
what a neat
idea. do you happen to know what the source of the rotors are? Toyota again?
 
i have never had a problem splitting the rotors. it aint rocket science. and i
like the idea of vented rotors.
 
Frank

From: aribert neumann
<aribertn at gmail.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Monday, October 1,
2012 8:33 PM
Subject: [TR] Nippondenso mini alternator (coffee can, racing,
etc alt)

Following up on the thread below - the Suzuki Swift alternator.  A
number
of racing catalogs list a small light weight alt for big $$.  I bought
an
e-bay  one (didn't know it was Chinese until I received it).  Earlier this
Summer I happened upon the Sideways Forums (
http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php/forum/1-technical-discuss
ion-boards/
),found the Small Triumph archived folder and started reading the
posts and
found several articles referring to the mini Denso alt and
recognised the
alt as looking like the one I bought off e-Bay.  I suspect that
this is the
small Nippondenso alternator.

>From my reading, the smallest of
the alt came with Japanese mini cars at
about 40 amp.  Same alt, but only 25
amp, found on Kubota tractors.  Some
links:
http://crazyspitfire.blogspot.com/2006/05/22-kilo-saving-alternator-joys.html
http://westfield-world.com/daihatsu_alternator.html (has wiring diagram)

I
was at a pick & pull type of salvage yard and found an 85 Honda Civic
with
what I thought was the mini alt.  Once I had it removed, it was the
same
pattern but a size bigger.

BTW, every so often the discussion comes up about
dismantling frt brake
calipers (and how the caliper bolts are sacred - don't
undo them).  Some of
our Triumph brethren on the other side of the pond are
splitting the
calipers to put spacers between in order to run vented rotors.
---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: "Randall" <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: <jerryvv at roadrunner.com>, <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Cc:
Date: Mon, 1 Oct
2012 08:31:56 -0700
Subject: Re: [TR] 10Si alternator application
Thanks,
Jerry, I'll pass that along.

> There is a small
> Alternator that puts out
around 40 amps, does anyone know
> that application?

Chris "Mad" Marx told me
that his came from an 89 Suzuki Swift.
Unfortunately my FLAPS didn't have that
one in stock, and I don't know the
application for the unit they sold me.  It
is not a single wire design,
there are 3 control tabs as well as the main
output.  I haven't researched
yet what they are, but I'm guessing that one is
for the dash light, one is
battery sense (which you could just wire to the
output if you want, I will
wire it to the starter solenoid), and the third
needs to get power from the
ignition circuit.  That seems to be what most of
the Japanese alternators
use.

-- Randall

** triumphs at autox.team.net **
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Tue Oct  2 10:47:58 2012
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2012 12:47:58 -0400
Subject: [TR] who is going to waynesboro va this weekend for the car show?
Message-ID: <CANhzkePPgUcGUhMp28Crvs29emERXcJCH0tXaLneYcRQ5KDQPQ@mail.gmail.com>

Shenandoah Valley British Car Club has a great show.  I used to attend
every year when I lived closer.

We are venturing out on a 4 hour trip in the TR2 on Friday to go again.
Between now and then I should install a new top, get the hood latch
adjusted, and put the apron back on.

I had it out on a run to the store on Sunday and it started right up and
ran great.

Anyone on the list going too?  Beautiful roads and the shenandoah parkway
is nearby as well.

http://svbcc.net/CarShow2012/carshowintro12.html

Chris
1954 TR2
1963 TR4
1969 TR6
1973 TR6 (on my last nerve!)

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Tue Oct  2 17:25:55 2012
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2012 16:25:55 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A Overheating
In-Reply-To: <3E706126DE914397A3B43CD2EEBBBBCB@Lambert1>
References: <20121001223110.N0HWC.107338.root@cdptpa-web19-z01>
	<3E706126DE914397A3B43CD2EEBBBBCB@Lambert1>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bGYnBOB+Exe+g=KNat+U2D_GrQ4Urk+hROfk5iQoZ0kXg@mail.gmail.com>

On Mon, Oct 1, 2012 at 5:46 PM, D&B Lambert <blambert at socal.rr.com> wrote:

> ... I'm looking for "been there, done that" stories.  I need some help
> making up my mind which way to go.
>


I  went with a new core with crank hole for my TR3A radiator.  The old one
was fine but looked awful beat-up (even had a swollen bottom tank from a
long-ago freeze).

Replacing the core cost about as much as the 'new' alternatives but I like
to keep it as original when I can.  Stays cool even in 100 degree climbs &
drives (stock H2O pump, tropical fan).

Sorry to miss Triumphest -- just got home from the Santa Fe Concorso,
another fine event.  Seems this year everyone picked the same weekend for
their car gatherings as I had four events in AZ & NM I had to choose from.

Geo

From fishplate at charter.net  Tue Oct  2 21:39:30 2012
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff)
Date: Tue, 02 Oct 2012 23:39:30 -0400
Subject: [TR] Clutch shaft questions
In-Reply-To: <5068B413.80308@charter.net>
References: <5068B413.80308@charter.net>
Message-ID: <506BB372.1050806@charter.net>

On 9/30/2012 5:05 PM, I wrote:
> Some time back, I read (in several places) about using a TR4 clutch
> shaft in a TR6 to gain the advantage of greasable bushings.  Sounded
> like a good idea...

After that post, I received an almost instant reply from a fellow named 
Bill, who suggested a bolt to attach the pushrod to the side of the 
lever.  It sounded crazy in it's simplicity...so crazy, it just might work!

Here's a page with a simple illustration of the problem, and the 
solution.  So far, it looks like it's going to work just fine.

http://fishplate.org/vehicles/triumph/tips/clutch_lever/

Thanks, Bill!

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

From levilevi at comcast.net  Wed Oct  3 09:49:59 2012
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2012 09:49:59 -0600
Subject: [TR] A type overdrive  solenoid problem?
Message-ID: <1D81B5EC-09E6-48FF-BFF0-180C47E8D060@comcast.net>

The OD on my TR6 stopped working so I did the trouble shooting process  
in Dan Master's electrical manual and found I have voltage all through  
the circuit all the way to the bullet that connects the (yellow with  
purple stripe) wire to the solenoid. The voltage can be switched on  
and off with the OD selector switch on the column so everything works  
up to the point where it connects to the solenoid. But the solenoid  
doesn't engage.

So the solenoid is bad right? What has me stumped is that the solenoid  
will operate if I hook it directly to an extra battery that I have.  
Why would it work with 12 volts directly but not 12 volts through the  
circuit? I even swapped out another solenoid from another A type OD  
and that one does exactly the same thing. Works with a direct hookup  
to a battery but not with the circuit. I checked to see if the  
solenoid is grounded and it has continuity according to my meter.

With the solenoid hooked to the system when I engage the OD switch the  
voltage goes as far as the bullet but doesn't register at the  
solenoid. It's as if the solenoid "clogs" the flow of the voltage.

What could be causing the solenoids to work with a direct battery  
(voltage measured at 12.11) but not with the circuit (voltage measured  
at 12.75)?

I'm stumped. How can both solenoids work in one situation and not the  
other?

Thanks
Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)

From greg at gelhar.com  Wed Oct  3 11:37:06 2012
From: greg at gelhar.com (Greg  Gelhar)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2012 12:37:06 -0500
Subject: [TR] A type overdrive  solenoid problem?
References: <1D81B5EC-09E6-48FF-BFF0-180C47E8D060@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <8B2F5CF2CE4D4808B62BF5BB150418A1@triumph>

Bud, can you measure the voltage at the solenoid connection with the 
solenoid in the circuit? It is possible to measure the correct voltage at 
the disconnected wire because the meter does not load the circuit down. If, 
with the solenoid in the circuit, you do not see the correct voltage, then 
there is a high resistance connection somewhere to the solenoid.


Greg G.
Osseo,MN


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bud Rolofson" <levilevi at comcast.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2012 10:49 AM
Subject: [TR] A type overdrive solenoid problem?


> The OD on my TR6 stopped working so I did the trouble shooting process
> in Dan Master's electrical manual and found I have voltage all through
> the circuit all the way to the bullet that connects the (yellow with
> purple stripe) wire to the solenoid. The voltage can be switched on
> and off with the OD selector switch on the column so everything works
> up to the point where it connects to the solenoid. But the solenoid
> doesn't engage.
>
> So the solenoid is bad right? What has me stumped is that the solenoid
> will operate if I hook it directly to an extra battery that I have.
> Why would it work with 12 volts directly but not 12 volts through the
> circuit? I even swapped out another solenoid from another A type OD
> and that one does exactly the same thing. Works with a direct hookup
> to a battery but not with the circuit. I checked to see if the
> solenoid is grounded and it has continuity according to my meter.
>
> With the solenoid hooked to the system when I engage the OD switch the
> voltage goes as far as the bullet but doesn't register at the
> solenoid. It's as if the solenoid "clogs" the flow of the voltage.
>
> What could be causing the solenoids to work with a direct battery
> (voltage measured at 12.11) but not with the circuit (voltage measured
> at 12.75)?
>
> I'm stumped. How can both solenoids work in one situation and not the
> other?
>
> Thanks
> Bud Rolofson

From levilevi at comcast.net  Wed Oct  3 12:19:10 2012
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2012 12:19:10 -0600
Subject: [TR] A type overdrive  solenoid problem?
In-Reply-To: <8B2F5CF2CE4D4808B62BF5BB150418A1@triumph>
References: <1D81B5EC-09E6-48FF-BFF0-180C47E8D060@comcast.net>
	<8B2F5CF2CE4D4808B62BF5BB150418A1@triumph>
Message-ID: <FF9EE60B-48DD-49F5-ABD0-8728C4D58DE5@comcast.net>

I did check the voltage at the yellow purple wire directly on the  
solenoid (you have to remove the plastic cap to get to that wire) and  
that's when it "clogs up".  The voltage reads in the hundredths of  
voltages instead of 12.75. I guess I could have two bad solenoids but  
the fact that they work with a direct hookup to a battery that has  
less voltage than the one in the car is a puzzle. I'm thinking there  
is a grounding issue. I guess the grounding could be affected over  
time by corrosion or dirt but I can't seem to find where that problem  
is if it's that.

Thanks
Bud

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)







On Oct 3, 2012, at 11:37 AM, Greg Gelhar wrote:

> Bud, can you measure the voltage at the solenoid connection with the  
> solenoid in the circuit? It is possible to measure the correct  
> voltage at the disconnected wire because the meter does not load the  
> circuit down. If, with the solenoid in the circuit, you do not see  
> the correct voltage, then there is a high resistance connection  
> somewhere to the solenoid.
>
>
> Greg G.
> Osseo,MN
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bud Rolofson" <levilevi at comcast.net 
> >
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2012 10:49 AM
> Subject: [TR] A type overdrive solenoid problem?
>
>
>> The OD on my TR6 stopped working so I did the trouble shooting  
>> process
>> in Dan Master's electrical manual and found I have voltage all  
>> through
>> the circuit all the way to the bullet that connects the (yellow with
>> purple stripe) wire to the solenoid. The voltage can be switched on
>> and off with the OD selector switch on the column so everything works
>> up to the point where it connects to the solenoid. But the solenoid
>> doesn't engage.
>>
>> So the solenoid is bad right? What has me stumped is that the  
>> solenoid
>> will operate if I hook it directly to an extra battery that I have.
>> Why would it work with 12 volts directly but not 12 volts through the
>> circuit? I even swapped out another solenoid from another A type OD
>> and that one does exactly the same thing. Works with a direct hookup
>> to a battery but not with the circuit. I checked to see if the
>> solenoid is grounded and it has continuity according to my meter.
>>
>> With the solenoid hooked to the system when I engage the OD switch  
>> the
>> voltage goes as far as the bullet but doesn't register at the
>> solenoid. It's as if the solenoid "clogs" the flow of the voltage.
>>
>> What could be causing the solenoids to work with a direct battery
>> (voltage measured at 12.11) but not with the circuit (voltage  
>> measured
>> at 12.75)?
>>
>> I'm stumped. How can both solenoids work in one situation and not the
>> other?
>>
>> Thanks
>> Bud Rolofson

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Wed Oct  3 13:09:12 2012
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2012 12:09:12 -0700
Subject: [TR] A type overdrive solenoid problem?
In-Reply-To: <1D81B5EC-09E6-48FF-BFF0-180C47E8D060@comcast.net>
References: <1D81B5EC-09E6-48FF-BFF0-180C47E8D060@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bFd3zgyc4Yn-Tn2bAZ0gi8sdTRm4b8xiQmRK8cko8aAew@mail.gmail.com>

I assume you have the gearbox in a gear that permits solenoid operation
(3rd or 4th)?

Geo

On Wed, Oct 3, 2012 at 8:49 AM, Bud Rolofson <levilevi at comcast.net> wrote:

> What could be causing the solenoids to work with a direct battery
> (voltage measured at 12.11) but not with the circuit (voltage measured
> at 12.75)?
>
> I'm stumped. How can both solenoids work in one situation and not the
> other?

From levilevi at comcast.net  Wed Oct  3 13:14:33 2012
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2012 13:14:33 -0600
Subject: [TR] A type overdrive solenoid problem?
In-Reply-To: <CANzE1bFd3zgyc4Yn-Tn2bAZ0gi8sdTRm4b8xiQmRK8cko8aAew@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1D81B5EC-09E6-48FF-BFF0-180C47E8D060@comcast.net>
	<CANzE1bFd3zgyc4Yn-Tn2bAZ0gi8sdTRm4b8xiQmRK8cko8aAew@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <A93029E8-02D0-40E8-B253-70041C7A89F6@comcast.net>

Yes, ignition on, shifter in 4th gear, OD selector switch on.

Thanks
Bud

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)







On Oct 3, 2012, at 1:09 PM, Geo Hahn wrote:

> I assume you have the gearbox in a gear that permits solenoid  
> operation (3rd or 4th)?
>
> Geo
>
> On Wed, Oct 3, 2012 at 8:49 AM, Bud Rolofson <levilevi at comcast.net>  
> wrote:
> What could be causing the solenoids to work with a direct battery
> (voltage measured at 12.11) but not with the circuit (voltage measured
> at 12.75)?
>
> I'm stumped. How can both solenoids work in one situation and not the
> other?

From tr3a58 at verizon.net  Wed Oct  3 14:46:22 2012
From: tr3a58 at verizon.net (Dean Tetterton)
Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2012 16:46:22 -0400
Subject: [TR] A type overdrive  solenoid problem?
In-Reply-To: <FF9EE60B-48DD-49F5-ABD0-8728C4D58DE5@comcast.net>
References: <1D81B5EC-09E6-48FF-BFF0-180C47E8D060@comcast.net>
	<8B2F5CF2CE4D4808B62BF5BB150418A1@triumph>
	<FF9EE60B-48DD-49F5-ABD0-8728C4D58DE5@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <6717F4FE-32BF-4D93-B3B7-10A150E8B54B@verizon.net>

There are points on the top of the solenoid. They should be closed to
pull in and open when the plunger is all the way up.
Are the points clean? and are they working. There are two windings
in the solenoid, one strong to pull it in and a weaker one to hold it
in.

Dean


On Oct 3, 2012, at 2:19 PM, Bud Rolofson wrote:

> I did check the voltage at the yellow purple wire directly on the
> solenoid (you have to remove the plastic cap to get to that wire) and
> that's when it "clogs up".  The voltage reads in the hundredths of
> voltages instead of 12.75. I guess I could have two bad solenoids but
> the fact that they work with a direct hookup to a battery that has
> less voltage than the one in the car is a puzzle. I'm thinking there
> is a grounding issue. I guess the grounding could be affected over
> time by corrosion or dirt but I can't seem to find where that problem
> is if it's that.
>
> Thanks
> Bud
>
> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
> 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
> 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
> Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Oct 3, 2012, at 11:37 AM, Greg Gelhar wrote:
>
>> Bud, can you measure the voltage at the solenoid connection with the
>> solenoid in the circuit? It is possible to measure the correct
>> voltage at the disconnected wire because the meter does not load the
>> circuit down. If, with the solenoid in the circuit, you do not see
>> the correct voltage, then there is a high resistance connection
>> somewhere to the solenoid.
>>
>>
>> Greg G.
>> Osseo,MN
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bud Rolofson" <levilevi at comcast.net
>>>
>> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2012 10:49 AM
>> Subject: [TR] A type overdrive solenoid problem?
>>
>>
>>> The OD on my TR6 stopped working so I did the trouble shooting
>>> process
>>> in Dan Master's electrical manual and found I have voltage all
>>> through
>>> the circuit all the way to the bullet that connects the (yellow with
>>> purple stripe) wire to the solenoid. The voltage can be switched on
>>> and off with the OD selector switch on the column so everything works
>>> up to the point where it connects to the solenoid. But the solenoid
>>> doesn't engage.
>>>
>>> So the solenoid is bad right? What has me stumped is that the
>>> solenoid
>>> will operate if I hook it directly to an extra battery that I have.
>>> Why would it work with 12 volts directly but not 12 volts through the
>>> circuit? I even swapped out another solenoid from another A type OD
>>> and that one does exactly the same thing. Works with a direct hookup
>>> to a battery but not with the circuit. I checked to see if the
>>> solenoid is grounded and it has continuity according to my meter.
>>>
>>> With the solenoid hooked to the system when I engage the OD switch
>>> the
>>> voltage goes as far as the bullet but doesn't register at the
>>> solenoid. It's as if the solenoid "clogs" the flow of the voltage.
>>>
>>> What could be causing the solenoids to work with a direct battery
>>> (voltage measured at 12.11) but not with the circuit (voltage
>>> measured
>>> at 12.75)?
>>>
>>> I'm stumped. How can both solenoids work in one situation and not the
>>> other?
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>> Bud Rolofson
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3a58 at verizon.net

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Oct  3 15:18:00 2012
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2012 17:18:00 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] A type overdrive  solenoid problem?
Message-ID: <13bd.a08afd3.3d9e0587@cs.com>

The solenoids are fine.  The problem is in the wiring.  It may be a bad 
relay but probably not.  Unplug all the connections between the battery and the 
solenoid and replug them (do this one at a time to avoid confusion).  This 
will clean off any corrosion that may be inhibiting current flow.  Also, if 
you have a fuse in the circuit make sure that is good and the fuse holder, 
too.

Dave

In a message dated 10/3/2012 3:00:01 PM Central Daylight Time, 
levilevi at comcast.net writes: 
> I did check the voltage at the yellow purple wire directly on the  
> solenoid (you have to remove the plastic cap to get to that wire) and  
> that's when it "clogs up".  The voltage reads in the hundredths of  
> voltages instead of 12.75. I guess I could have two bad solenoids but  
> the fact that they work with a direct hookup to a battery that has  
> less voltage than the one in the car is a puzzle. I'm thinking there  
> is a grounding issue. I guess the grounding could be affected over  
> time by corrosion or dirt but I can't seem to find where that problem  
> is if it's that.

From tr3abobm77 at frontier.com  Wed Oct  3 15:26:56 2012
From: tr3abobm77 at frontier.com (tr3abobm77 at frontier.com)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2012 14:26:56 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] A type overdrive solenoid problem?
In-Reply-To: <A93029E8-02D0-40E8-B253-70041C7A89F6@comcast.net>
References: <1D81B5EC-09E6-48FF-BFF0-180C47E8D060@comcast.net>
	<CANzE1bFd3zgyc4Yn-Tn2bAZ0gi8sdTRm4b8xiQmRK8cko8aAew@mail.gmail.com>
	<A93029E8-02D0-40E8-B253-70041C7A89F6@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1349299616.29446.YahooMailNeo@web121003.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

If wired normally, the gearbox switches only operate a relay which in turn
operates the solenoid. Do you hear the relay operate when you turn the switch
on and off? You could also try 2nd gear.
 
Bob Maassel
59 TR3A
To:
Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com> 
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Wednesday,
October 3, 2012 3:14 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] A type overdrive solenoid problem?
Yes, ignition on, shifter in 4th gear, OD selector switch on.

Thanks
Bud
71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
66TR4A CTC57529 (The
Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly
Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)







On Oct 3, 2012,
at 1:09 PM, Geo Hahn wrote:

> I assume you have the gearbox in a gear that
permits solenoid  
> operation (3rd or 4th)?
>
> Geo
>
> On Wed, Oct 3, 2012
at 8:49 AM, Bud Rolofson <levilevi at comcast.net>  
> wrote:
> What could be
causing the solenoids to work with a direct battery
> (voltage measured at
12.11) but not with the circuit (voltage measured
> at 12.75)?
>
> I'm
stumped. How can both solenoids work in one situation and not the
> other?

**
triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3abobm77 at frontier.com

From pryner at verizon.net  Wed Oct  3 17:46:40 2012
From: pryner at verizon.net (Peter Ryner)
Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2012 19:46:40 -0400
Subject: [TR] Feelings about  paint types
In-Reply-To: <6717F4FE-32BF-4D93-B3B7-10A150E8B54B@verizon.net>
References: <1D81B5EC-09E6-48FF-BFF0-180C47E8D060@comcast.net>
	<8B2F5CF2CE4D4808B62BF5BB150418A1@triumph>
	<FF9EE60B-48DD-49F5-ABD0-8728C4D58DE5@comcast.net>
	<6717F4FE-32BF-4D93-B3B7-10A150E8B54B@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <CA7FD8EFC9C5484498BBD7DF7EE670E6@PetePC>

All,
My '56 TR-3 is in need of a respray.  It was last done in 1991 with RM 
Diamond paint system.  Although not original type paint, I was very pleased 
with the looks of the finished product.  I took the car to a shop last week 
and they recommended a base coat clear coat system.  Said it would look much 
better and will hold up better.  I have mixed feelings about a new paint 
system on a 56 year old car.  I've kept most everything original but it will 
never be a concours car.  Any experience or views on the subject?  I haven't 
seen a TR with a new clear coat system on it.
TIA
Pete 

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Wed Oct  3 19:35:33 2012
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2012 20:35:33 -0500
Subject: [TR] Feelings about  paint types
In-Reply-To: <CA7FD8EFC9C5484498BBD7DF7EE670E6@PetePC>
References: <1D81B5EC-09E6-48FF-BFF0-180C47E8D060@comcast.net><8B2F5CF2CE4D4808B62BF5BB150418A1@triumph><FF9EE60B-48DD-49F5-ABD0-8728C4D58DE5@comcast.net><6717F4FE-32BF-4D93-B3B7-10A150E8B54B@verizon.net>
	<CA7FD8EFC9C5484498BBD7DF7EE670E6@PetePC>
Message-ID: <2AE44CFC5C65464181A9AC4E36D265B6@GregPC>

You will get all sorts of opinions on this, I personally think a single 
stage looks more original, and that a base coat clear coat looks a little 
too shiny wet.  It is certainly more of an eye catcher on the show circuit.

I know most of the modern shops swear by it, I am just a very amateur 
painter/restorer, but I also look at the basecoat/clearcoat as more 
steps/more opportunities for something to go wrong in the paint process.

But it is very much a personal choice/preferance.

Greg Lemon 

From wbeech at flash.net  Wed Oct  3 20:08:07 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2012 21:08:07 -0500
Subject: [TR] Feelings about  paint types
In-Reply-To: <CA7FD8EFC9C5484498BBD7DF7EE670E6@PetePC>
References: <1D81B5EC-09E6-48FF-BFF0-180C47E8D060@comcast.net>
	<8B2F5CF2CE4D4808B62BF5BB150418A1@triumph>
	<FF9EE60B-48DD-49F5-ABD0-8728C4D58DE5@comcast.net>
	<6717F4FE-32BF-4D93-B3B7-10A150E8B54B@verizon.net>
	<CA7FD8EFC9C5484498BBD7DF7EE670E6@PetePC>
Message-ID: <8FEB2095-1E9A-4526-81A1-5A599623DFFA@flash.net>

I have BC-CC on my black TR3, four years old, looks great.  It is shinier than
the original paint but holds up nicely and is easy to shine up for a parade or
show.
Bill

Sent from mobile Bill

On Oct 3, 2012, at 6:46 PM, "Peter Ryner" <pryner at verizon.net> wrote:

All,
My '56 TR-3 is in need of a respray.  It was last done in 1991 with RM Diamond
paint system.  Although not original type paint, I was very pleased with the
looks of the finished product.  I took the car to a shop last week and they
recommended a base coat clear coat system.  Said it would look much better and
will hold up better.  I have mixed feelings about a new paint system on a 56
year old car.  I've kept most everything original but it will never be a
concours car.  Any experience or views on the subject?  I haven't seen a TR
with a new clear coat system on it.
TIA
Pete
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com  Thu Oct  4 07:13:37 2012
From: jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com (John Young)
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2012 06:13:37 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Feelings about  paint types
In-Reply-To: <CA7FD8EFC9C5484498BBD7DF7EE670E6@PetePC>
References: <1D81B5EC-09E6-48FF-BFF0-180C47E8D060@comcast.net>
	<8B2F5CF2CE4D4808B62BF5BB150418A1@triumph>
	<FF9EE60B-48DD-49F5-ABD0-8728C4D58DE5@comcast.net>
	<6717F4FE-32BF-4D93-B3B7-10A150E8B54B@verizon.net>
	<CA7FD8EFC9C5484498BBD7DF7EE670E6@PetePC>
Message-ID: <1349356417.8944.YahooMailNeo@web181106.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

I think that such a shiny finish is quite out of place on a car that old. A
good polyurathane would look much better In my eyes.
Just my personal opinion.
John Young NASS# 528
Indiana
'78 Spitfire
'66 Spitfire
________________________________
 From: Peter Ryner <pryner at verizon.net>
To:
triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Wednesday, October 3, 2012 7:46 PM
Subject:
[TR] Feelings about  paint types
  
All,
My '56 TR-3 is in need of a respray. 
It was last done in 1991 with RM Diamond paint system.  Although not original
type paint, I was very pleased with the looks of the finished product.  I took
the car to a shop last week and they recommended a base coat clear coat
system.  Said it would look much better and will hold up better.  I have mixed
feelings about a new paint system on a 56 year old car.  I've kept most
everything original but it will never be a concours car.  Any experience or
views on the subject?  I haven't seen a TR with a new clear coat system on it.
TIA
Pete 
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Thu Oct  4 10:22:00 2012
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2012 09:22:00 -0700
Subject: [TR] Feelings about paint types
In-Reply-To: <CA7FD8EFC9C5484498BBD7DF7EE670E6@PetePC>
References: <1D81B5EC-09E6-48FF-BFF0-180C47E8D060@comcast.net>
	<8B2F5CF2CE4D4808B62BF5BB150418A1@triumph>
	<FF9EE60B-48DD-49F5-ABD0-8728C4D58DE5@comcast.net>
	<6717F4FE-32BF-4D93-B3B7-10A150E8B54B@verizon.net>
	<CA7FD8EFC9C5484498BBD7DF7EE670E6@PetePC>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bHVQEjox-5qKsZ101de8jcbuj3GF4sq8Js9b8kfUwyySQ@mail.gmail.com>

I suspect the shops like base/clear coat because it is less labor for them
to get a great result.  I have the clear coat on my TR3A and it did indeed
look very shiny when done (12 years ago) but I think it shows it age more
that a traditional paint.  I drive a lot and don't care about car shows
(but like the car to look nice) and find the assorted nicks & scuffs are
harder to deal with in the clear coat -- also getting some cracks around
the holes for badges, hinges, etc.
By way of contrast, my TR4 has it's original paint and nicks & scratches
are easy to fix.

Probably depends on how you plan to use the car, what your objectives are
and how long you intend to keep it.

Geo

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Thu Oct  4 15:35:51 2012
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2012 17:35:51 -0400
Subject: [TR] Fort Wayne, Indiana
Message-ID: <000001cda278$3ab1d2c0$b0157840$@uprichard.net>

If there is anyone on either list who lives in Fort Wayne or knows the city
particularly well, can they contact me off-list?  Thanks!

Andrew Uprichard

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Thu Oct  4 16:47:25 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2012 15:47:25 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] tr3 tr4 handbrake
Message-ID: <1349390845.88090.YahooMailNeo@web120003.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

was the TR4 handbrake the same as the TR3?
 IE chrome tube fly off?
thanks
Frank

From dconnitt at fuse.net  Thu Oct  4 17:13:18 2012
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2012 19:13:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] Feelings about  paint types
In-Reply-To: <CA7FD8EFC9C5484498BBD7DF7EE670E6@PetePC>
References: <1D81B5EC-09E6-48FF-BFF0-180C47E8D060@comcast.net><8B2F5CF2CE4D4808B62BF5BB150418A1@triumph><FF9EE60B-48DD-49F5-ABD0-8728C4D58DE5@comcast.net><6717F4FE-32BF-4D93-B3B7-10A150E8B54B@verizon.net>
	<CA7FD8EFC9C5484498BBD7DF7EE670E6@PetePC>
Message-ID: <12B5B032FACF41478D1B7F7B40D9CBFB@DaveLaptop>

Hi Peter,
I recently finished up painting my TR4A IRS using RM Diamont base coat and 
Limco LC1000 clear coat. I couldn't be happier with the results. I am not 
looking for a "authentic" finish so shiny is good.
The clear coat allows you to color sand and buff the final paint to be 
mirror smooth. If your into that, Base/Clear is the way to go. The single 
stage paints are more for the guy looking for a original finish tends to be 
not as smooth. I agree with one of the other guys who said most painters 
will push to go Base/Clear as that is what they use in the collision repair 
business. The single stage enamels will be much cheaper material wise.
I painted mine myself and so I saved some money on labor but it was still 
about $800.00 or so just in material.

'67 TR4A IRS
http://home.fuse.net/davest4a

From aribertn at gmail.com  Thu Oct  4 18:38:07 2012
From: aribertn at gmail.com (aribert neumann)
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2012 20:38:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] split calipers, vented rotors,
 was: Nippondenso mini alternator  (coffee can, racing, etc)
Message-ID: <CAGkVM294MmMneF8qEEzTtSOvGBnVC7k=Auvs+gV4BRfhbJNoLw@mail.gmail.com>

Frank, others:

> You would need to search the Sideways Forums.  I read thru the small
> Triumph (Spit/GT6/Vitesse (I think)) archive where it appears the most
> common vented rotor was from a Capri.  I **presume** this to be a Ford
> Capri - a later derivative of the L-M Capri that was imported to the US in
> the '70's,  Those forums have a number of participants that are involved in
> vehicle modification.  There might be people involved with vented rotors
> using modified stock calipers on the big Triumphs, I just was not looking
> for that infomation.
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>
> To: aribert neumann <aribertn at gmail.com>, "triumphs at autox.team.net" <
> triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Cc:
> Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2012 08:52:40 -0700 (PDT)
> Subject: Re: [TR] Nippondenso mini alternator (coffee can, racing, etc alt)
>  Some of our Triumph brethren on the other side of the pond are splitting
> the
> calipers to put spacers between in order to run vented rotors.
>
> what a neat
> idea. do you happen to know what the source of the rotors are? Toyota
> again?
>
> i have never had a problem splitting the rotors. it aint rocket science.
> and i
> like the idea of vented rotors.
>
> Frank
>
> From: aribert neumann
> <aribertn at gmail.com>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Monday, October 1,
> 2012 8:33 PM
> ....Earlier this
> Summer I happened upon the Sideways Forums <http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php/forum/1-technical-discuss
> ion-boards/>



>
> http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php/forum/1-technical-discussion-boards/<http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php/forum/1-technical-discuss
> ion-boards/>
> ,found the Small Triumph archived folder and started reading some of the
> posts.....

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Thu Oct  4 19:10:39 2012
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2012 18:10:39 -0700
Subject: [TR] tr3 tr4 handbrake
In-Reply-To: <1349390845.88090.YahooMailNeo@web120003.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1349390845.88090.YahooMailNeo@web120003.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bGMKsODcVyGwRXh0iHCthqzSsM15rpcpnXOm8Q7-m+cUw@mail.gmail.com>

Mine (TR3A & TR4) appear to be identical (though I have never taken them
apart to observe any mechanical differences).

Geo

On Thu, Oct 4, 2012 at 3:47 PM, Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com> wrote:

> was the TR4 handbrake the same as the TR3?
>  IE chrome tube fly off?
> thanks
> Frank
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com

From fishplate at charter.net  Thu Oct  4 19:27:01 2012
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff)
Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2012 21:27:01 -0400
Subject: [TR] A type overdrive  solenoid problem?
In-Reply-To: <1D81B5EC-09E6-48FF-BFF0-180C47E8D060@comcast.net>
References: <1D81B5EC-09E6-48FF-BFF0-180C47E8D060@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <506E3765.1070109@charter.net>

On 10/3/2012 11:49 AM, Bud Rolofson wrote:
> So the solenoid is bad right? What has me stumped is that the solenoid
> will operate if I hook it directly to an extra battery that I have.
> Why would it work with 12 volts directly but not 12 volts through the
> circuit?

Will the solenoid wire light up a stoplight bulb?

From tom628 at verizon.net  Thu Oct  4 20:48:59 2012
From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note)
Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2012 22:48:59 -0400
Subject: [TR] tr3 tr4 handbrake
References: <1349390845.88090.YahooMailNeo@web120003.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <9488AF9C28B847C98CBE179BB00EBB07@Toms>

Frank, the handbrake on my '64 was fly-off, and chrome.

Tom

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Frank Fisher" <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>
To: "Triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2012 6:47 PM
Subject: [TR] tr3 tr4 handbrake


> was the TR4 handbrake the same as the TR3?
> IE chrome tube fly off?
> thanks
> Frank
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tom628 at verizon.net 

From wbeech at flash.net  Thu Oct  4 21:31:22 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2012 22:31:22 -0500
Subject: [TR] Feelings about  paint types
In-Reply-To: <12B5B032FACF41478D1B7F7B40D9CBFB@DaveLaptop>
References: <1D81B5EC-09E6-48FF-BFF0-180C47E8D060@comcast.net><8B2F5CF2CE4D4808B62BF5BB150418A1@triumph><FF9EE60B-48DD-49F5-ABD0-8728C4D58DE5@comcast.net><6717F4FE-32BF-4D93-B3B7-10A150E8B54B@verizon.net><CA7FD8EFC9C5484498BBD7DF7EE670E6@PetePC>
	<12B5B032FACF41478D1B7F7B40D9CBFB@DaveLaptop>
Message-ID: <E9F97E0BA5AD46098F2E4F78F016EC2C@bboffice>

Got to thinking during this thread.  Can you go the basecoat/clearcoat route
and use a less glossy clearcoat to more closely mimic the original
single-stage paints?

Just thinking out loud,
Bill 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Connitt
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2012 6:13 PM
To: Peter Ryner; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Feelings about paint types

Hi Peter,
I recently finished up painting my TR4A IRS using RM Diamont base coat and
Limco LC1000 clear coat. I couldn't be happier with the results. I am not
looking for a "authentic" finish so shiny is good.
The clear coat allows you to color sand and buff the final paint to be
mirror smooth. If your into that, Base/Clear is the way to go. The single
stage paints are more for the guy looking for a original finish tends to be
not as smooth. I agree with one of the other guys who said most painters
will push to go Base/Clear as that is what they use in the collision repair
business. The single stage enamels will be much cheaper material wise.
I painted mine myself and so I saved some money on labor but it was still
about $800.00 or so just in material.

'67 TR4A IRS
http://home.fuse.net/davest4a

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Thu Oct  4 22:08:42 2012
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl-TR)
Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2012 00:08:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] Electric Fan wiring
Message-ID: <000001cda2af$1b9b9510$52d2bf30$@verizon.net>

I am adding a pusher fan on my TR3 and wanting to confirm my wiring 'plan'.
 
See:
http://i1001.photobucket.com/albums/af136/cfmtr3a/Information%20Items/Electr
icFanCircuit.jpg 
 
Do I have it right?
 
Thanks
Carl
1961 TR3A TS81802LO

From alansalvy at gmail.com  Fri Oct  5 03:25:11 2012
From: alansalvy at gmail.com (alan salvatore)
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2012 05:25:11 -0400
Subject: [TR] Feelings about paint types
In-Reply-To: <CA7FD8EFC9C5484498BBD7DF7EE670E6@PetePC>
References: <1D81B5EC-09E6-48FF-BFF0-180C47E8D060@comcast.net>
	<8B2F5CF2CE4D4808B62BF5BB150418A1@triumph>
	<FF9EE60B-48DD-49F5-ABD0-8728C4D58DE5@comcast.net>
	<6717F4FE-32BF-4D93-B3B7-10A150E8B54B@verizon.net>
	<CA7FD8EFC9C5484498BBD7DF7EE670E6@PetePC>
Message-ID: <CAAAEehSCqT4Lu2GuEjJDBUq3E8phSjoRcZ__eaQ=KnweR1bdRA@mail.gmail.com>

I've painted a couple of TR's and I prefer the single stage and then I use
a cocktail of clear in the final coat.

The single stage can still be color sanded if you want a super smooth
finish.

The single stage also more closely duplicates the original enamel in that
when you polish it, in that the color comes off on your rag.  A clear coat
has no color of course.
All the new paints are going to give a much brighter finish than the enamel.

I  also don't like the way the clearcoat has a tendency to flake off with
age.

Al


On Wed, Oct 3, 2012 at 7:46 PM, Peter Ryner <pryner at verizon.net> wrote:

> All,
> My '56 TR-3 is in need of a respray.  It was last done in 1991 with RM
> Diamond paint system.  Although not original type paint, I was very pleased
> with the looks of the finished product.  I took the car to a shop last week
> and they recommended a base coat clear coat system.  Said it would look
> much better and will hold up better.  I have mixed feelings about a new
> paint system on a 56 year old car.  I've kept most everything original but
> it will never be a concours car.  Any experience or views on the subject?
>  I haven't seen a TR with a new clear coat system on it.
> TIA
> Pete
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/triumphs/alansalvy@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/alansalvy at gmail.com>

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Oct  5 06:10:30 2012
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2012 08:10:30 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Electric Fan wiring
Message-ID: <3d91.e09149b.3da02836@cs.com>

OK, I was confused there for a while.  The ring terminals with the crosses 
looked to be positive electrical connections.  Maybe they are and if this is 
a positive ground vehicle it should work just fine.  But on second thought 
these look like they might be Philips head screws and as every concours 
judge will tell you Philips head screws are incorrect for a TR3.  Seriously, if 
these are connections to chassis everything is correct with the exception of 
the ground connection for the fan which is not shown.  But let's assume you 
know better than to leave this detail unattended.

Note: this configuration will run the fan even with the key off so be 
careful not to leave the car unattended in the ON mode.  Your battery will thank 
you for that.

Dave

In a message dated 10/5/2012 12:32:42 AM Central Daylight Time, 
cfmtr3a at verizon.net writes: 
> I am adding a pusher fan on my TR3 and wanting to confirm my wiring 
> 'plan'.
> 
> See:
> http://i1001.photobucket.com/albums/af136/cfmtr3a/Information%20Items/Elect
> r
> icFanCircuit.jpg 
> 
> Do I have it right?

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Oct  5 06:10:30 2012
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2012 08:10:30 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Electric Fan wiring
Message-ID: <3d91.e09149b.3da02836@cs.com>

OK, I was confused there for a while.  The ring terminals with the crosses 
looked to be positive electrical connections.  Maybe they are and if this is 
a positive ground vehicle it should work just fine.  But on second thought 
these look like they might be Philips head screws and as every concours 
judge will tell you Philips head screws are incorrect for a TR3.  Seriously, if 
these are connections to chassis everything is correct with the exception of 
the ground connection for the fan which is not shown.  But let's assume you 
know better than to leave this detail unattended.

Note: this configuration will run the fan even with the key off so be 
careful not to leave the car unattended in the ON mode.  Your battery will thank 
you for that.

Dave

In a message dated 10/5/2012 12:32:42 AM Central Daylight Time, 
cfmtr3a at verizon.net writes: 
> I am adding a pusher fan on my TR3 and wanting to confirm my wiring 
> 'plan'.
> 
> See:
> http://i1001.photobucket.com/albums/af136/cfmtr3a/Information%20Items/Elect
> r
> icFanCircuit.jpg 
> 
> Do I have it right?

From dave at ranteer.com  Fri Oct  5 07:12:46 2012
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2012 08:12:46 -0500
Subject: [TR] Feelings about  paint types
In-Reply-To: <E9F97E0BA5AD46098F2E4F78F016EC2C@bboffice>
References: <1D81B5EC-09E6-48FF-BFF0-180C47E8D060@comcast.net><8B2F5CF2CE4D4808B62BF5BB150418A1@triumph><FF9EE60B-48DD-49F5-ABD0-8728C4D58DE5@comcast.net><6717F4FE-32BF-4D93-B3B7-10A150E8B54B@verizon.net><CA7FD8EFC9C5484498BBD7DF7EE670E6@PetePC><12B5B032FACF41478D1B7F7B40D9CBFB@DaveLaptop>
	<E9F97E0BA5AD46098F2E4F78F016EC2C@bboffice>
Message-ID: <A5980ED615524C7C81E758D6DBAE76D2@Spitfire>

I think you can do different things with clearcoat.  on my 6, which is 
supposed to have a flat black tail, my painter used clearcoat and (don't ask 
me how) gave it a flat instead of gloss finish.  I think its absolutely 
perfect in mimicing the flat black, yet gives me a surface I can clean and 
polish.

-----Original Message----- 
From: Wbeech
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2012 10:31 PM
To: 'Dave Connitt' ; 'Peter Ryner' ; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Feelings about paint types

Got to thinking during this thread.  Can you go the basecoat/clearcoat route
and use a less glossy clearcoat to more closely mimic the original
single-stage paints?

Just thinking out loud,
Bill 

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Fri Oct  5 08:00:11 2012
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2012 07:00:11 -0700
Subject: [TR] Feelings about paint types
In-Reply-To: <E9F97E0BA5AD46098F2E4F78F016EC2C@bboffice>
References: <1D81B5EC-09E6-48FF-BFF0-180C47E8D060@comcast.net>
	<8B2F5CF2CE4D4808B62BF5BB150418A1@triumph>
	<FF9EE60B-48DD-49F5-ABD0-8728C4D58DE5@comcast.net>
	<6717F4FE-32BF-4D93-B3B7-10A150E8B54B@verizon.net>
	<CA7FD8EFC9C5484498BBD7DF7EE670E6@PetePC>
	<12B5B032FACF41478D1B7F7B40D9CBFB@DaveLaptop>
	<E9F97E0BA5AD46098F2E4F78F016EC2C@bboffice>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bGYeEdBHB5irjSxaDfEUfTWLWocgE+gujR5xYkScCZrRA@mail.gmail.com>

At best, that would seem to give you the look of original paint with the
disadvantages of clear coat (easily scratched, might fog or peel, harder to
touch-up)..

Geo

On Thu, Oct 4, 2012 at 8:31 PM, Wbeech <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:

> Got to thinking during this thread.  Can you go the basecoat/clearcoat
> route
> and use a less glossy clearcoat to more closely mimic the original
> single-stage paints?

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Fri Oct  5 08:46:22 2012
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2012 07:46:22 -0700
Subject: [TR] Feelings about  paint types
In-Reply-To: <A5980ED615524C7C81E758D6DBAE76D2@Spitfire>
References: <1D81B5EC-09E6-48FF-BFF0-180C47E8D060@comcast.net><8B2F5CF2CE4D4808B62BF5BB150418A1@triumph><FF9EE60B-48DD-49F5-ABD0-8728C4D58DE5@comcast.net><6717F4FE-32BF-4D93-B3B7-10A150E8B54B@verizon.net><CA7FD8EFC9C5484498BBD7DF7EE670E6@PetePC><12B5B032FACF41478D1B7F7B40D9CBFB@DaveLaptop>
	<E9F97E0BA5AD46098F2E4F78F016EC2C@bboffice>
	<A5980ED615524C7C81E758D6DBAE76D2@Spitfire>
Message-ID: <506EF2BE.4050200@gmail.com>

And there is the way the clear coat looks after a few years when it 
becomes cloudy and is flaking off.  I see those way too often in parking 
lots.  How does one repair or polish up a cloudy flaking clear top 
coat?  I don't think you could hit it with some rubbing compound and 
follow it up with polish like you can with a one step paint.

TeriAnn

From ptegler at verizon.net  Fri Oct  5 08:58:50 2012
From: ptegler at verizon.net (ptegler at verizon.net)
Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2012 09:58:50 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] Feelings about paint types
Message-ID: <8502536.1873523.1349449130883.JavaMail.root@vznit170134>

 clear flake off is a prep issue...and/or waiting too long before applying (base set to much)
In matched paint systems, there is zero reason for the clear to separate from the color base.

 Paul Tegler 
ptegler at verizon.net 
www.teglerizer.com

On 10/05/12, alan salvatore wrote:

I've painted a couple of TR's and I prefer the single stage and then I use
a cocktail of clear in the final coat.

The single stage can still be color sanded if you want a super smooth
finish.

The single stage also more closely duplicates the original enamel in that
when you polish it, in that the color comes off on your rag. A clear coat
has no color of course.
All the new paints are going to give a much brighter finish than the enamel.

I also don't like the way the clearcoat has a tendency to flake off with
age.

Al


On Wed, Oct 3, 2012 at 7:46 PM, Peter Ryner <pryner at verizon.net> wrote:

> All,
> My '56 TR-3 is in need of a respray. It was last done in 1991 with RM
> Diamond paint system. Although not original type paint, I was very pleased
> with the looks of the finished product. I took the car to a shop last week
> and they recommended a base coat clear coat system. Said it would look
> much better and will hold up better. I have mixed feelings about a new
> paint system on a 56 year old car. I've kept most everything original but
> it will never be a concours car. Any experience or views on the subject?
> I haven't seen a TR with a new clear coat system on it.
> TIA
> Pete
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
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From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com  Fri Oct  5 09:59:19 2012
From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (Brian Induni)
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2012 08:59:19 -0700
Subject: [TR] Feelings about paint types
Message-ID: <001e01cda312$61841f80$248c5e80$@roadrunner.com>

I have to say, after painting cars for over 35 years, I think today's paints
are the absolute best. I painted my TR4A in single stage (no clear coat) and
it came out flat, smooth and beautiful. It looked like the original paint
finish. I've also done cars in 2 stage (base/clear) and they look great too
- more "deep" than single stage for sure, but my taste if more for
originality and I don't think the clear coat looks original. I love to see a
car with paint that looks like a deep pool of color, BUT that isn't how it
looked when new.

Both single and 2 stage paint jobs can be (and should be) wet sanded with
1200 grit and polished to mirror finish. At least that's how I do it. The
difference is the single stage doesn't look as "deep". Personal preference.

Brian

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Fri Oct  5 12:06:58 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2012 11:06:58 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Feelings about paint types
In-Reply-To: <8502536.1873523.1349449130883.JavaMail.root@vznit170134>
References: <8502536.1873523.1349449130883.JavaMail.root@vznit170134>
Message-ID: <1349460418.9874.YahooMailNeo@web120001.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

right


From: "ptegler at verizon.net" <ptegler at verizon.net>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Friday, October 5, 2012 7:58 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Feelings about paint types

clear flake off is a prep issue...and/or waiting too long before applying (base set to much)
In matched paint systems, there is zero reason for the clear to separate from the color base.

Paul Tegler 
ptegler at verizon.net 
http://www.teglerizer.com/

On 10/05/12, alan salvatore wrote:

I've painted a couple of TR's and I prefer the single stage and then I use
a cocktail of clear in the final coat.

The single stage can still be color sanded if you want a super smooth
finish.

The single stage also more closely duplicates the original enamel in that
when you polish it, in that the color comes off on your rag. A clear coat
has no color of course.
All the new paints are going to give a much brighter finish than the enamel.

I also don't like the way the clearcoat has a tendency to flake off with
age.

Al


On Wed, Oct 3, 2012 at 7:46 PM, Peter Ryner <pryner at verizon.net> wrote:

> All,
> My '56 TR-3 is in need of a respray. It was last done in 1991 with RM
> Diamond paint system. Although not original type paint, I was very pleased
> with the looks of the finished product. I took the car to a shop last week
> and they recommended a base coat clear coat system. Said it would look
> much better and will hold up better. I have mixed feelings about a new
> paint system on a 56 year old car. I've kept most everything original but
> it will never be a concours car. Any experience or views on the subject?
> I haven't seen a TR with a new clear coat system on it.
> TIA
> Pete
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Fri Oct  5 13:56:56 2012
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl-TR)
Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2012 15:56:56 -0400
Subject: [TR] Electric Fan wiring
In-Reply-To: <3d91.e09149b.3da02836@cs.com>
References: <3d91.e09149b.3da02836@cs.com>
Message-ID: <000901cda333$93dbaf40$bb930dc0$@verizon.net>

LOL - they are the ground connection.   No 'wire' means through body of
lamp, etc.   and yes - I did omit the ground on the fan by mistake.
I had thought about getting power after the ignition switch but that would
mean a lot of extra wire up behind the dash.   Hence the warning lamp.

Thanks
C
.

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave1massey at cs.com
Sent: Friday, October 05, 2012 8:11 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Electric Fan wiring

OK, I was confused there for a while.  The ring terminals with the crosses
looked to be positive electrical connections.  Maybe they are and if this is
a positive ground vehicle it should work just fine.  But on second thought
these look like they might be Philips head screws and as every concours
judge will tell you Philips head screws are incorrect for a TR3.  Seriously,
if these are connections to chassis everything is correct with the exception
of the ground connection for the fan which is not shown.  But let's assume
you know better than to leave this detail unattended.

Note: this configuration will run the fan even with the key off so be
careful not to leave the car unattended in the ON mode.  Your battery will
thank you for that.

Dave

In a message dated 10/5/2012 12:32:42 AM Central Daylight Time,
cfmtr3a at verizon.net writes: 
> I am adding a pusher fan on my TR3 and wanting to confirm my wiring 
> 'plan'.
> 
> See:
> http://i1001.photobucket.com/albums/af136/cfmtr3a/Information%20Items/
> Elect
> r
> icFanCircuit.jpg
> 
> Do I have it right?

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Oct  5 15:08:04 2012
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2012 17:08:04 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Electric Fan wiring
Message-ID: <7a46d.3942bbf7.3da0a634@cs.com>

Nice graphics!

Dave

In a message dated 10/5/2012 2:58:06 PM Central Daylight Time, 
cfmtr3a at verizon.net writes: 
> LOL - they are the ground connection.   No 'wire' means through body of
> lamp, etc.   and yes - I did omit the ground on the fan by mistake.
> I had thought about getting power after the ignition switch but that would
> mean a lot of extra wire up behind the dash.   Hence the warning lamp.

From mark at bradakis.com  Fri Oct  5 19:57:55 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Fri,  5 Oct 2012 19:57:55 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [TR] List availability
Message-ID: <20121006015755.6E7422E065@bradakis.com>

The trusty old Cisco DSL modem that has served Team.Net well for
many years is failing.  I'm working on replacing it with a brand
new Actiontec unit.  It is not going well.  There are some issues
with the new modem that need to be resolved.

So over the next day or so Team.Net may be off the air for a few
minutes, hopefully no more than half an hour at a time as I apply
the digital equivalent of a BFH to the hardware.

I appreciate your patience.

mjb.

From zoboherald at aol.com  Fri Oct  5 20:27:02 2012
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace)
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2012 22:27:02 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Feelings about paint types
In-Reply-To: <1349460418.9874.YahooMailNeo@web120001.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <8502536.1873523.1349449130883.JavaMail.root@vznit170134>
	<1349460418.9874.YahooMailNeo@web120001.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8CF7181346BBA09-2138-6313@webmail-d005.sysops.aol.com>

Paul Tegler wrote: clear flake off is a prep issue...and/orwaiting too long
before applying (base set to much) In matched paint systems,there is zero
reason for the clear to separate from
the color base.

=======
>From what I've seen over the years, flaking clear coat is mostly a matter of a
car that hasn't been out of the elements since sometime late in the 2nd
Clinton administration and likely has never seen a can of wax, either. I can't
imagine most Triumph owners spending several thousand on any sort of repaint
and then leaving the car outside forever after! ;)


--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er,
TriumphHerald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage
TriumphRegister: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph
HeraldDatabase: http://triumph-herald.us

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Fri Oct  5 21:23:33 2012
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2012 23:23:33 -0400
Subject: [TR] How hot is too hot?
Message-ID: <CANhzkeMg3k0JakwY6Pqqn3sPxwzHR7Cq5kUPCRaKbZFaQ7_S0g@mail.gmail.com>

We made it to the Shenandoah Car Club British car show today. Not as
smoothly as I'd like but we made it.

Temperature ran in the 195 to 200 range the entire way. But that's not how
it ran 3 days ago.

This spring, I took the radiator to the shop and he said it was great. I'm
beginning to think maybe my radiator guy is not so good.

I'm not sure the distributors behaving correctly, though. I set the timing
static and then I adusted from there. I think maybe my vacuum advance could
be intermittent could that cause overheating?

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Fri Oct  5 21:44:23 2012
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2012 20:44:23 -0700
Subject: [TR] Feelings about paint types
In-Reply-To: <8502536.1873523.1349449130883.JavaMail.root@vznit170134>
References: <8502536.1873523.1349449130883.JavaMail.root@vznit170134>
Message-ID: <506FA917.5020404@gmail.com>

On 10/5/12 7:58 AM, ptegler at verizon.net wrote:
>   clear flake off is a prep issue...and/or waiting too long before applying (base set to much)
> In matched paint systems, there is zero reason for the clear to separate from the color base.
>
Then why do I see it is so many factory paint jobs?  Are the car 
manufacturers screwing up their paint jobs?

TeriAnn

From mdporter at dfn.com  Fri Oct  5 23:32:01 2012
From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter)
Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2012 23:32:01 -0600
Subject: [TR] Feelings about paint types
In-Reply-To: <506FA917.5020404@gmail.com>
References: <8502536.1873523.1349449130883.JavaMail.root@vznit170134>
	<506FA917.5020404@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <506FC251.5000609@dfn.com>

On 10/5/2012 9:44 PM, TeriAnn J. Wakeman wrote:
> On 10/5/12 7:58 AM, ptegler at verizon.net wrote:
>>   clear flake off is a prep issue...and/or waiting too long before 
>> applying (base set to much)
>> In matched paint systems, there is zero reason for the clear to 
>> separate from the color base.
>>
> Then why do I see it is so many factory paint jobs?  Are the car 
> manufacturers screwing up their paint jobs?
>

Here in the southwest, it's very common to see clear-coat problems, and 
on factory paint.  The clear coat doesn't so much separate and flake as 
turn to powder, which suggests that the problem is the result of 
deterioration due to UV.


Cheers.

-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Oct  6 06:47:58 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2012 05:47:58 -0700
Subject: [TR] How hot is too hot?
In-Reply-To: <CANhzkeMg3k0JakwY6Pqqn3sPxwzHR7Cq5kUPCRaKbZFaQ7_S0g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANhzkeMg3k0JakwY6Pqqn3sPxwzHR7Cq5kUPCRaKbZFaQ7_S0g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <0e2401cda3c0$d053bed0$0601a8c0@randall>

> This spring, I took the radiator to the shop and he said it 
> was great. I'm
> beginning to think maybe my radiator guy is not so good.

FWIW I had the exact same problem.  I've dealt with this shop for many
years, and rarely had a complaint, but they sure got me this time.  They
twice pronounced the radiator "fine".  On the third round, I insisted that
they "rod out" the tubes and they discovered that the insides were coated
with "mud" to the extent that they could just barely force the rods through.
Afterwards it leaked in so many places that I opted for a new core instead.
All of my cooling problems promptly vanished.

The strangest part is that this was the radiator from my wrecked TR3A, which
had already been recored about 10 years ago and was working just fine before
the wreck.  There was absolutely no physical damage to it, but apparently
just sitting idle for a few years had allowed the coating to build up inside
the tubes; and all my efforts at backflushing, chemical cleaning and so on
had failed to dislodge it.

>  I think maybe my vacuum 
> advance could
> be intermittent could that cause overheating?

In theory, yes.  But a TR3 doesn't run a lot of vacuum advance, and at least
in my experience a bum advance module doesn't seem to show up on the temp
gauge.  I've always caught it because the midrange throttle response seems a
bit sluggish.

-- Randall  

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sat Oct  6 08:09:45 2012
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2012 10:09:45 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] How hot is too hot?
Message-ID: <1341a.47b829ff.3da195a9@cs.com>

First and foremost, can you trust your temperture gauge?  Have you checked 
it against a known standard?  If you can borrow a thermocouple gauge place 
the thermocouple on the thermostat housing and see if it reads differntly.

Second, what is the opening temperature of the thermostat?  If the temp 
stays consistantly in the 195 - 200 range and the gauge is accurate I have 
suspect the thermostat.  Real cooling issues will come a go based on driving 
conditions and ambient temperature.

Dave

In a message dated 10/6/2012 12:10:21 AM Central Daylight Time, 
ccsimonsen at gmail.com writes: 
> We made it to the Shenandoah Car Club British car show today. Not as
> smoothly as I'd like but we made it.
> 
> Temperature ran in the 195 to 200 range the entire way. But that's not how
> it ran 3 days ago.
> 
> This spring, I took the radiator to the shop and he said it was great. I'm
> beginning to think maybe my radiator guy is not so good.
> 
> I'm not sure the distributors behaving correctly, though. I set the timing
> static and then I adusted from there. I think maybe my vacuum advance 
> could
> be intermittent could that cause overheating?

From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Sat Oct  6 08:15:18 2012
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2012 10:15:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] How hot is too hot?
In-Reply-To: <0e2401cda3c0$d053bed0$0601a8c0@randall>
References: <CANhzkeMg3k0JakwY6Pqqn3sPxwzHR7Cq5kUPCRaKbZFaQ7_S0g@mail.gmail.com>
	<0e2401cda3c0$d053bed0$0601a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <68BDCDDB7579493E8688D98690E11AD9@UserTHINK>

Another thing that can get overlooked is the deterioration of the bond 
between the fins and the tubes themselves. Without a good bond there the 
heat transfer can not happen efficiently.
It's hard to diagnose as well. But a new core will fix that problem nicely.
JVV

-----Original Message----- 
From: Randall
Sent: Saturday, October 06, 2012 8:47 AM
To: 'Chris Simo' ; 'list Triumph'
Subject: Re: [TR] How hot is too hot?

> This spring, I took the radiator to the shop and he said it
> was great. I'm
> beginning to think maybe my radiator guy is not so good.

FWIW I had the exact same problem.  I've dealt with this shop for many
years, and rarely had a complaint, but they sure got me this time.  They
twice pronounced the radiator "fine".  On the third round, I insisted that
they "rod out" the tubes and they discovered that the insides were coated
with "mud" to the extent that they could just barely force the rods through.
Afterwards it leaked in so many places that I opted for a new core instead.
All of my cooling problems promptly vanished.

The strangest part is that this was the radiator from my wrecked TR3A, which
had already been recored about 10 years ago and was working just fine before
the wreck.  There was absolutely no physical damage to it, but apparently
just sitting idle for a few years had allowed the coating to build up inside
the tubes; and all my efforts at backflushing, chemical cleaning and so on
had failed to dislodge it.

>  I think maybe my vacuum
> advance could
> be intermittent could that cause overheating?

In theory, yes.  But a TR3 doesn't run a lot of vacuum advance, and at least
in my experience a bum advance module doesn't seem to show up on the temp
gauge.  I've always caught it because the midrange throttle response seems a
bit sluggish.

-- Randall

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From wbeech at flash.net  Sat Oct  6 08:30:25 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2012 09:30:25 -0500
Subject: [TR] How hot is too hot?
In-Reply-To: <CANhzkeMg3k0JakwY6Pqqn3sPxwzHR7Cq5kUPCRaKbZFaQ7_S0g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANhzkeMg3k0JakwY6Pqqn3sPxwzHR7Cq5kUPCRaKbZFaQ7_S0g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <A3FAD1FF7A5440A7AAB1E5D3DADD6153@bboffice>

If you vacuum advance is leaking air that can lean out your mixture and
cause a hotter engine.  Pull a spark plug and check the color.

Did your radiator guy actually check the flow of the radiator or just
pressurize it and confirm that it does not leak?

My thoughts,
Bill


Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow"
M.Andretti


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Simo
Sent: Friday, October 05, 2012 10:24 PM
To: list Triumph
Subject: [TR] How hot is too hot?

We made it to the Shenandoah Car Club British car show today. Not as
smoothly as I'd like but we made it.

Temperature ran in the 195 to 200 range the entire way. But that's not how
it ran 3 days ago.

This spring, I took the radiator to the shop and he said it was great. I'm
beginning to think maybe my radiator guy is not so good.

I'm not sure the distributors behaving correctly, though. I set the timing
static and then I adusted from there. I think maybe my vacuum advance could
be intermittent could that cause overheating?

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From trmarty at hotmail.com  Sat Oct  6 08:38:19 2012
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2012 10:38:19 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 total ignition advance
Message-ID: <BLU168-W2EF298A7EF8CA1AFC7645BA8A0@phx.gbl>

A buddy is bringing his stock 74 TR6 over tomorrow to play with ignition
timing. What total advance are you folks running on your stock TR6's?

Thanks,

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sat Oct  6 10:43:03 2012
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Sat, 06 Oct 2012 12:43:03 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 total ignition advance
In-Reply-To: <BLU168-W2EF298A7EF8CA1AFC7645BA8A0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU168-W2EF298A7EF8CA1AFC7645BA8A0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <50705F97.2050900@adelphia.net>

Marty,

The conventional wisdom is to use a vacuum gauge and set the timing at 
idle. Refer to the 6 pack forum for info on how many inches of mercury 
vacuum is best for the stock engine.

6 pack members state: With fresh points/plugs/cap/rotor/wires, and it 
pulls over 18in. of vacuum at idle with an indicated 14 deg. of advance 
(damper checked against piston TDC with a dial indicator).

During the winter, I will be getting a good gauge in order to work on my 
72 6. I have set it using the static timing method and then making small 
adjustments using the micro adjustment on the distro. But I think I 
still dont have optimum power. I compare the 72 to the performance on my 
TR3 and TR4 and I feel both the 3 and 4 have more power. The 72 runs 
fine, sounds fine but just doesnt have the pull of the 3 or 4, 
especially on hills in 4th gear.

Bob

On 10/06/2012 10:38 AM, marty sukey wrote:
> A buddy is bringing his stock 74 TR6 over tomorrow to play with ignition
> timing. What total advance are you folks running on your stock TR6's?
>
> Thanks,
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From dconnitt at fuse.net  Sat Oct  6 12:55:36 2012
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2012 14:55:36 -0400
Subject: [TR] Feelings about paint types
In-Reply-To: <506FA917.5020404@gmail.com>
References: <8502536.1873523.1349449130883.JavaMail.root@vznit170134>
	<506FA917.5020404@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6C70D3B055024AA291092441DB9EFA77@DaveLaptop>

TeriAnn,
I think what you are referring to is from a few years ago when the car 
makers were experimenting with water based paint systems. Chrysler and GM 
had huge issues with clear coat deterioation. My neighbor 2 doors up has a 
Dodge mini-van (about 15 years old) that is real bad.
I don't think you see it too much anymore but is sure is ugly..
Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A
Finally painted!
Saving for a wire harness
http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a

From JGILLIS at tcd.ie  Sat Oct  6 15:33:35 2012
From: JGILLIS at tcd.ie (John Gillis)
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2012 22:33:35 +0100
Subject: [TR] turn signals?
Message-ID: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB034518625219@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>

can I throw an odd one out to the oracle; I noticed when I had my side lights
on, I could not really see the flasher flashing, it is a double filament bulb,
but is hardly noticeable over the side light itself.
cheers
John
1954 TR2

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Sat Oct  6 17:42:46 2012
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2012 18:42:46 -0500
Subject: [TR] turn signals?
In-Reply-To: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB034518625219@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>
References: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB034518625219@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>
Message-ID: <6EA0319FAAE548B092EFB34AD88C7E34@GregPC>

I think that can happen if you have the wiring reversed on the lights, i.e. 
turn signal is going to side light filament and vice versa.
Anyway its an easy check.

Greg Lemon

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sat Oct  6 17:58:31 2012
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2012 16:58:31 -0700
Subject: [TR] turn signals?
In-Reply-To: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB034518625219@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>
References: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB034518625219@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bFKbvHeZBHg50foordZmMVgKuk+bhy8K1f4SjvXD8Nq6Q@mail.gmail.com>

John --

My guess would be that you have the wires switched.  There are two
filaments in the bulb -- one has low wattage (5?) for the illuminated light
such as a tail light -- the other is bright (21W?) for the flasher or brake
lights.

The bulb only mounts one way but if the wires are connected incorrectly you
will get the result you describe.

Geo

On Sat, Oct 6, 2012 at 2:33 PM, John Gillis <JGILLIS at tcd.ie> wrote:

> can I throw an odd one out to the oracle; I noticed when I had my side
> lights
> on, I could not really see the flasher flashing, it is a double filament
> bulb,
> but is hardly noticeable over the side light itself.
> cheers
> John

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Oct  6 18:10:13 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2012 17:10:13 -0700
Subject: [TR] turn signals?
In-Reply-To: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB034518625219@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>
References: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB034518625219@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>
Message-ID: <0ea401cda420$1ffdd510$0601a8c0@randall>

> I noticed when I 
> had my side lights
> on, I could not really see the flasher flashing, it is a 
> double filament bulb,
> but is hardly noticeable over the side light itself.

That is a sign that the fixture is wired wrong.  Swap the two hot wires, so
the bright filament is for turn signals and the dim filament for side light
(aka parking light in the US).

-- Randall  

From zoboherald at aol.com  Sat Oct  6 18:29:20 2012
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace)
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2012 20:29:20 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] turn signals?
In-Reply-To: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB034518625219@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>
References: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB034518625219@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>
Message-ID: <8CF7239EDAA7DF7-2138-EEE8@webmail-d005.sysops.aol.com>

I suspect that the wiring is reversed, so you're seeing the brighter filament
as the side lamp and the dimmer filament as the flasher.


--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us




-----Original Message-----
From: John Gillis <JGILLIS at tcd.ie>


can I throw an odd one out to the oracle; I noticed when I had my side lights
on, I could not really see the flasher flashing, it is a double filament
bulb,
but is hardly noticeable over the side light itself.iumphs/zoboherald at aol.com

From fishplate at charter.net  Sat Oct  6 18:55:43 2012
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff)
Date: Sat, 06 Oct 2012 20:55:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] Clutch movement
Message-ID: <5070D30F.70106@charter.net>

Got my clutch problems sorted out, now everything is new except the 
upper pipe...No air left when I bleed, etc.

So I'm curious:  How much should the pushrod move when I press the 
pedal?  The car changes gear OK, but I feel that I'm right on the edge 
of it not working....and it doesnt' look like it moves much more than a 
half-inch or so.

From peterara at msn.com  Sat Oct  6 19:11:32 2012
From: peterara at msn.com (Peter Arakelian)
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2012 18:11:32 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 total ignition advance
Message-ID: <COL122-DS179E0B3BA431391E19D3B9C1890@phx.gbl>

I have a 1971 TR6, with everything connected I am running 6 degrees BTDC.
I have run as much as 10 BTDC, but while it snaps at acceleration, it is
harder to start.

The seat of the pants method is best.
Factory says advance until no ping when accelerating at full throttle in high
gear from 30 mph to 50 mph.  I would add that after that go out on the freeway
and at about 60-65 give it full throttle.  If it pings, back off a little.

Peter

From pryner at verizon.net  Sat Oct  6 19:29:42 2012
From: pryner at verizon.net (Pete Ryner)
Date: Sat, 06 Oct 2012 21:29:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] turn signals?
In-Reply-To: <0ea401cda420$1ffdd510$0601a8c0@randall>
References: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB034518625219@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>
	<0ea401cda420$1ffdd510$0601a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <2022133BE3C74224A9EDCFE753BDE9C8@HomePC>

If not wired backwards it is certainly a bad ground.
Pete

-----Original Message----- 
From: Randall
Sent: Saturday, October 06, 2012 8:10 PM
To: 'John Gillis' ; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] turn signals?

> I noticed when I
> had my side lights
> on, I could not really see the flasher flashing, it is a
> double filament bulb,
> but is hardly noticeable over the side light itself.

That is a sign that the fixture is wired wrong.  Swap the two hot wires, so
the bright filament is for turn signals and the dim filament for side light
(aka parking light in the US).

-- Randall

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pryner at verizon.net 

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Sat Oct  6 21:18:12 2012
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Sat, 6 Oct 2012 23:18:12 -0400
Subject: [TR] Great day at Shenandoah British car show
Message-ID: <CANhzkeOZcS0t02pC5RZr_4oZB5e1CtzqtVj8-LsGBU+51_QJ5A@mail.gmail.com>

Took the tr2 to to the Shenandoah car club show in Waynesboro, VA
It was great.  Wonderful weather and beautiful cars. Great group of folks.
Thanks!

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Sun Oct  7 06:52:18 2012
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2012 05:52:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] control head issues
Message-ID: <1349614338.82699.YahooMailNeo@web120605.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Sorry to bring this up again since I remember there was a thread some time
back about it which I ignored.  My control head wants to turn with the
steering wheel (one way worse than the other) and I'm wondering what the
solution was or is.  Is it the 3 grub bolts that contact the metal plate?
thanks

gary n.

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Sun Oct  7 07:00:52 2012
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Sun, 07 Oct 2012 06:00:52 -0700
Subject: [TR] turn signals?
In-Reply-To: <2022133BE3C74224A9EDCFE753BDE9C8@HomePC>
References: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB034518625219@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>
	<0ea401cda420$1ffdd510$0601a8c0@randall>
	<2022133BE3C74224A9EDCFE753BDE9C8@HomePC>
Message-ID: <50717D04.9010902@gmail.com>

On 10/6/12 6:29 PM, Pete Ryner wrote:
> If not wired backwards it is certainly a bad ground.
> Pete
Not certainly.  Could also be a corroded contact at the bulb/socket 
interface or a corroded bullet connector.

There are very few certainties in life beyond death and taxes. I find it 
interesting that in the US when you die you are still expected to pay 
taxes on any income made that year prior to the moment of your death.  I 
wonder if there are tax preparation people who are also mediums.  And 
can the person who died deduct the price of their funeral from their taxes?

TeriAnn

From fishplate at charter.net  Sun Oct  7 08:02:28 2012
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff)
Date: Sun, 07 Oct 2012 10:02:28 -0400
Subject: [TR] turn signals?
In-Reply-To: <CANzE1bFKbvHeZBHg50foordZmMVgKuk+bhy8K1f4SjvXD8Nq6Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB034518625219@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>
	<CANzE1bFKbvHeZBHg50foordZmMVgKuk+bhy8K1f4SjvXD8Nq6Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <50718B74.4090003@charter.net>

On 10/6/2012 7:58 PM, Geo Hahn wrote:
> The bulb only mounts one way

It's only supposed to mount one way, but I've seen plenty of folks who 
managed to put it in backwards.  Especially easy on an old socket.  I 
recommend that you check the bulb first before you switch the wires.

--Jeff

From JGILLIS at tcd.ie  Sun Oct  7 10:01:44 2012
From: JGILLIS at tcd.ie (John Gillis)
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2012 17:01:44 +0100
Subject: [TR] turn signals?
Message-ID: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB03451862521D@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>

The collective wisdom is on the button, switched wiring and all is well
thank ye
John

From cameronjoyce at sympatico.ca  Sun Oct  7 11:17:57 2012
From: cameronjoyce at sympatico.ca (Cameron Joyce)
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2012 13:17:57 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 Paint, Body & Chrome
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP34217E41E6667F96A74615B2890@phx.gbl>

List,

Engine is out of the TR3A being refreshed at R&B in Oakville, so now looking
for recommendations for an LBC paint and body shop in southern Ontario.
Fred at BAS recommended Rob Rhodes at H&R Restoration for the body work, but
noted that he is swamped so might take longer than I'd like.  

Also looking for somewhere to get bits replated - Cambridge Custom Chrome is
close by - does anyone have experience with them? 

Happy Thanksgiving Northern friends! 

Cameron Joyce

From greg at gelhar.com  Sun Oct  7 12:18:45 2012
From: greg at gelhar.com (greg at gelhar.com)
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2012 14:18:45 -0400
Subject: [TR] control head issues
In-Reply-To: <1349614338.82699.YahooMailNeo@web120605.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1349614338.82699.YahooMailNeo@web120605.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <f410e045e3026f1cbb4466fc2bbdd53e.squirrel@email.accountsupport.com>

Gary, the control head is held from turning by the stator tube that
engages the extension of the control head going all the way to the
steering box where it is clamped by a compresion fitting. Watch the stator
tube that sticks out about an inch from the steering box and has the
control wires exiting. If it turns with the steering wheel, the
compression fitting is loose. If it remains stationary, the tube may be
broken.
The three grub screws clamp the rotating part of the control head to the
steering wheel to cancel at the straight ahead position.

Greg G.
Osseo, MN


> Sorry to bring this up again since I remember there was a thread some time
> back about it which I ignored.  My control head wants to turn with the
> steering wheel (one way worse than the other) and I'm wondering what the
> solution was or is.  Is it the 3 grub bolts that contact the metal plate?
> thanks
>
> gary n.
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/greg at gelhar.com

From levilevi at comcast.net  Sun Oct  7 13:54:38 2012
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2012 13:54:38 -0600
Subject: [TR] Update: A type overdrive solenoid problem? On to Galveston for
 VTR.
In-Reply-To: <DAFD965B-D76D-4FA8-9177-E71627B87457@comcast.net>
References: <1D81B5EC-09E6-48FF-BFF0-180C47E8D060@comcast.net>
	<8B2F5CF2CE4D4808B62BF5BB150418A1@triumph>
	<FF9EE60B-48DD-49F5-ABD0-8728C4D58DE5@comcast.net>
	<6717F4FE-32BF-4D93-B3B7-10A150E8B54B@verizon.net>
	<DAFD965B-D76D-4FA8-9177-E71627B87457@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <D972CA7C-5CB3-4732-9633-048E16DBBD2B@comcast.net>

List,

Got the relay on and the OD works as it should. As always I learned a  
lot from list contributors. Thanks to all.

Now that I have that issue licked hopefully, It's on to Galveston for  
VTR.

Thanks
Bud

>
> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
> 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
> 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
> Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)

From wbeech at flash.net  Sun Oct  7 14:01:41 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2012 15:01:41 -0500
Subject: [TR] control head issues
In-Reply-To: <1349614338.82699.YahooMailNeo@web120605.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1349614338.82699.YahooMailNeo@web120605.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <740672DFCBDD46479451D02300C73F67@bboffice>

For me, it's the nut & olive at the end of the stator tube that keep the
head from turning.
Bill

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary Nafziger
Sent: Sunday, October 07, 2012 7:52 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] control head issues

Sorry to bring this up again since I remember there was a thread some time
back about it which I ignored.  My control head wants to turn with the
steering wheel (one way worse than the other) and I'm wondering what the
solution was or is.  Is it the 3 grub bolts that contact the metal plate?
thanks

gary n.

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From dave at ranteer.com  Sun Oct  7 15:55:35 2012
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2012 16:55:35 -0500
Subject: [TR] Feelings about paint types
In-Reply-To: <6C70D3B055024AA291092441DB9EFA77@DaveLaptop>
References: <8502536.1873523.1349449130883.JavaMail.root@vznit170134><506FA917.5020404@gmail.com>
	<6C70D3B055024AA291092441DB9EFA77@DaveLaptop>
Message-ID: <230FB850D7494D29A570CE88778C6715@Spitfire>

I think chrysler did, too.  I had one of those cars where the clearcoat 
peeled off.

-----Original Message----- 
From: Dave Connitt
Sent: Saturday, October 06, 2012 1:55 PM
To: TeriAnn J. Wakeman ; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Feelings about paint types

TeriAnn,
I think what you are referring to is from a few years ago when the car
makers were experimenting with water based paint systems. Chrysler and GM
had huge issues with clear coat deterioation. My neighbor 2 doors up has a
Dodge mini-van (about 15 years old) that is real bad.
I don't think you see it too much anymore but is sure is ugly..
Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A
Finally painted!
Saving for a wire harness
http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a 

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Oct  7 16:32:30 2012
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2012 18:32:30 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Clutch movement
Message-ID: <53b19.278916dd.3da35cfd@cs.com>

What car?  The TR6 is notorious for clutch engagement.  Changing clutch 
cross shaft lever holes can help.  A larger diameter master cylinder or a 
smaller slave cylinder diameter can also help.

Dave

In a message dated 10/6/2012 9:15:46 PM Central Daylight Time, 
fishplate at charter.net writes: 
> Got my clutch problems sorted out, now everything is new except the 
> upper pipe...No air left when I bleed, etc.
> 
> So I'm curious:  How much should the pushrod move when I press the 
> pedal?  The car changes gear OK, but I feel that I'm right on the edge 
> of it not working....and it doesnt' look like it moves much more than a 
> half-inch or so.

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Mon Oct  8 06:01:49 2012
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Mon, 08 Oct 2012 08:01:49 -0400
Subject: [TR] Clutch movement
In-Reply-To: <53b19.278916dd.3da35cfd@cs.com>
References: <53b19.278916dd.3da35cfd@cs.com>
Message-ID: <5072C0AD.9020705@adelphia.net>

Dave,

I have to agree. I just switched rides from my 72 6 to my 63 4 and the 
first time out last Friday, I thought my clutch on the 4 was too soft. 
But I checked it out on a short drive around the block and everything 
was fine. Fluid level was fine and so was the operation. It was just I 
was used to the much harder pedal on the 6. Now on the 3, it is even 
better. I know the 3 and 4 have the same pressure plate and slave but I 
think the MC must be a bigger diameter than on the 3. I have to say, the 
clutch operation on the 3 is the best of the 3 Triumphs I own.

All engage at the same spot, just that all 3 require different amounts 
of force from my foot!

Bob

On 10/07/2012 06:32 PM, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote:
> What car?  The TR6 is notorious for clutch engagement.  Changing clutch
> cross shaft lever holes can help.  A larger diameter master cylinder or a
> smaller slave cylinder diameter can also help.
>
> Dave
>
> In a message dated 10/6/2012 9:15:46 PM Central Daylight Time,
> fishplate at charter.net writes:
>> Got my clutch problems sorted out, now everything is new except the
>> upper pipe...No air left when I bleed, etc.
>>
>> So I'm curious:  How much should the pushrod move when I press the
>> pedal?  The car changes gear OK, but I feel that I'm right on the edge
>> of it not working....and it doesnt' look like it moves much more than a
>> half-inch or so.
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr at adelphia.net

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Oct  8 06:34:19 2012
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2012 08:34:19 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Update: A type overdrive solenoid problem? On to Galveston
 for VTR.
Message-ID: <221c0.6360b23d.3da4224b@cs.com>

So, what was the problem?

Dave (Dying to know)

In a message dated 10/7/2012 5:38:46 PM Central Daylight Time, 
levilevi at comcast.net writes: 
> Got the relay on and the OD works as it should. As always I learned a  
> lot from list contributors. Thanks to all.

From triumphstag at gmail.com  Mon Oct  8 08:42:14 2012
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2012 07:42:14 -0700
Subject: [TR] Bondo substitute. What are fellow Triumph owners using to fill
 small rusty spots?
Message-ID: <CANLCLaHevbPmUa7GhnU97LAyDFTL7bqA25SYfs0kNBb68DMOOA@mail.gmail.com>

Regards, Roy

-- 
Sujit Roy, Realtor
Cupertino, CA
(408) 839-8359

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Mon Oct  8 08:55:41 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2012 07:55:41 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Bondo substitute. What are fellow Triumph owners using to
 fill small rusty spots?
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaHevbPmUa7GhnU97LAyDFTL7bqA25SYfs0kNBb68DMOOA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaHevbPmUa7GhnU97LAyDFTL7bqA25SYfs0kNBb68DMOOA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1349708141.70665.YahooMailNeo@web120005.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

just for fun, i did some lead work when i was restoring my TR3.
i would not
suggest it for whole project use. its really tough to do.
remember you must
get rid of the rust, unless its just a surface scrape then you can use one of
the better rust converters. but i prefer grinding it out till its all gone.
Frank 

From: Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com>
To: Triumphs
<triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Monday, October 8, 2012 7:42 AM
Subject: [TR]
Bondo substitute. What are fellow Triumph owners using to fill small rusty
spots?

Regards, Roy

-- 
Sujit Roy, Realtor
Cupertino, CA
(408) 839-8359

**
triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From fishplate at charter.net  Mon Oct  8 09:23:18 2012
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff)
Date: Mon, 08 Oct 2012 11:23:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] Clutch movement
In-Reply-To: <53b19.278916dd.3da35cfd@cs.com>
References: <53b19.278916dd.3da35cfd@cs.com>
Message-ID: <5072EFE6.5050106@charter.net>

On 10/7/2012 6:32 PM, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote:
> What car?

Sorry, I left that out:  75 TR6

> The TR6 is notorious for clutch engagement.

Yeah, that's what makes me think this is normal.  I just wanted a data 
point to compare it.  Given a stock setup with new components, the 
pushrod should move a certain amount...

> Changing clutch
> cross shaft lever holes can help.  A larger diameter master cylinder or a
> smaller slave cylinder diameter can also help.

So far, I'm not sure there's a problem.  Drove 10 miles or so, and only 
missed one downshift.  Could have been me, I suppose.  The car shifts 
fine, otherwise.  It's just that, with the trans tunnel off, I can see 
that the lever doesn't move a whole lot.

Of course, when you think about it, the brakes really don't move a whole 
lot either, and they manage to get the job done.  So maybe I'm thinking 
too much.  That's happened before...

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

>
> Dave
>
> In a message dated 10/6/2012 9:15:46 PM Central Daylight Time,
> fishplate at charter.net writes:
>> Got my clutch problems sorted out, now everything is new except the
>> upper pipe...No air left when I bleed, etc.
>>
>> So I'm curious:  How much should the pushrod move when I press the
>> pedal?  The car changes gear OK, but I feel that I'm right on the edge
>> of it not working....and it doesnt' look like it moves much more than a
>> half-inch or so.
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fishplate at charter.net

From levilevi at comcast.net  Mon Oct  8 09:35:09 2012
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2012 09:35:09 -0600
Subject: [TR] Update: A type overdrive solenoid problem? On to Galveston
 for VTR.
In-Reply-To: <221c0.6360b23d.3da4224b@cs.com>
References: <221c0.6360b23d.3da4224b@cs.com>
Message-ID: <62CCFF3A-5D05-4BE8-AA39-D1D5782EF896@comcast.net>

The relay was bad.


Bud

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)







On Oct 8, 2012, at 6:34 AM, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote:

> So, what was the problem?
>
> Dave (Dying to know)
>
> In a message dated 10/7/2012 5:38:46 PM Central Daylight Time,
> levilevi at comcast.net writes:
>> Got the relay on and the OD works as it should. As always I learned a
>> lot from list contributors. Thanks to all.
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Oct  8 11:07:16 2012
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2012 13:07:16 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Clutch movement
Message-ID: <28b04.58ccf124.3da46244@cs.com>

I noticed the same thing but I have never measured it so I can't tell you 
what is "normal."  I'm not sure any of us can tell what is "normal."

Dave

In a message dated 10/8/2012 10:24:25 AM Central Daylight Time, 
fishplate at charter.net writes: 
> So far, I'm not sure there's a problem.  Drove 10 miles or so, and only 
> missed one downshift.  Could have been me, I suppose.  The car shifts 
> fine, otherwise.  It's just that, with the trans tunnel off, I can see 
> that the lever doesn't move a whole lot.

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Oct  8 11:08:54 2012
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2012 13:08:54 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Update: A type overdrive solenoid problem? On to Galveston
 for VTR.
Message-ID: <28bcc.25492400.3da462a6@cs.com>

I'll be darned.  I guess the contacts burned up.

Thanks for the update.  Enjoy VTR.

Dave

In a message dated 10/8/2012 10:35:15 AM Central Daylight Time, 
levilevi at comcast.net writes: 
> The relay was bad.

From dwoerpel at wi.net  Mon Oct  8 11:59:25 2012
From: dwoerpel at wi.net (dwoerpel)
Date: Mon, 08 Oct 2012 12:59:25 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR7 help
Message-ID: <5073147D.9090604@wi.net>

Hi,

I've been lurking a bit and now a friend needs some help with a TR7.   
The front suspension top mounts for the strut towers and gone and we're 
looking for replacement panels.  Anyone have a source. The usual 
suspects have nothing.  VB tantalizes with a picture but apparently not 
available.  Any assistance is welcome.
TIA,
Dave W.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Oct  8 14:30:30 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2012 16:30:30 -0400
Subject: [TR] Update: A type overdrive solenoid problem? On to Galveston
 for VTR.
In-Reply-To: <28bcc.25492400.3da462a6@cs.com>
Message-ID: <20121008203030.5TOWL.147830.root@cdptpa-web19-z01>

---- Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: 
> I'll be darned.  I guess the contacts burned up.

FWIW I had that problem several times, until I added a diode snubber.  My theory is that the original relay had oversize and/or precious metal contacts, to deal with the arcing caused by kickback from the solenoid; but the replacements I tried did not.  At any rate, I had two reproduction relays and a Bosch general purpose relay all quit working reliably within less than a year of daily driving.  After adding the diode, even the "cheap chinese" general purpose relay is still working fine many years later.

http://tinyurl.com/2dcppeo

--- Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Oct  8 14:33:33 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2012 16:33:33 -0400
Subject: [TR] Clutch movement
In-Reply-To: <5072EFE6.5050106@charter.net>
Message-ID: <20121008203333.RY0F9.147851.root@cdptpa-web19-z01>

---- Jeff <fishplate at charter.net> wrote: 
> It's just that, with the trans tunnel off, I can see 
> that the lever doesn't move a whole lot.

ISTR that one of the Buckeye articles gives the "normal" movement as about 5/8" at the clevis pin.

The only time I measured it on my TR3A, that was about right.  (My problem proved to be a broken taper pin.)

Randall

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Mon Oct  8 14:58:17 2012
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2012 16:58:17 -0400
Subject: [TR] Bondo substitute. What are fellow Triumph owners using to
 fill small rusty spots?
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaHevbPmUa7GhnU97LAyDFTL7bqA25SYfs0kNBb68DMOOA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaHevbPmUa7GhnU97LAyDFTL7bqA25SYfs0kNBb68DMOOA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <004201cda597$a5a12aa0$f0e37fe0$@uprichard.net>

Depends what you mean by rusty spots:  if they are holes, they should
ideally be welded, fiberglass as an alternative.  If you are just talking
about the dimpling you get with age, bondo is fine.

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Sujit Roy
Sent: Monday, October 08, 2012 10:42 AM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] Bondo substitute. What are fellow Triumph owners using to fill
small rusty spots?

Regards, Roy

-- 
Sujit Roy, Realtor
Cupertino, CA
(408) 839-8359

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Mon Oct  8 15:05:34 2012
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2012 14:05:34 -0700
Subject: [TR] Update: A type overdrive solenoid problem? On to Galveston
 for VTR.
In-Reply-To: <20121008203030.5TOWL.147830.root@cdptpa-web19-z01>
References: <28bcc.25492400.3da462a6@cs.com>
	<20121008203030.5TOWL.147830.root@cdptpa-web19-z01>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bHzDqoPBaiJbQ0N+wp=pOz1cJQYcY5SKpEkbMkYPdOYjw@mail.gmail.com>

On Mon, Oct 8, 2012 at 1:30 PM, Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

> ---- Dave1massey at cs.com wrote:
> > I'll be darned.  I guess the contacts burned up.
>
> ...I added a diode snubber...
>


Me too.  I added it thusly (positive ground shown, diode polarity would be
the other way on negative ground):

http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/OD%20Diode.JPG

The diode I used (though it certainly didn't have to be this one):

http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/TR4/ODDiode-2.jpg

There is an extra male terminal on the original style relay, else a
2-into-1 as seen in Randall's pic will suit.

Geo

From dconnitt at fuse.net  Mon Oct  8 17:49:13 2012
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2012 19:49:13 -0400
Subject: [TR] Bondo substitute. What are fellow Triumph owners using to
 fill small rusty spots?
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaHevbPmUa7GhnU97LAyDFTL7bqA25SYfs0kNBb68DMOOA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaHevbPmUa7GhnU97LAyDFTL7bqA25SYfs0kNBb68DMOOA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2F6191186D224F1996BA04E29B5FDDF3@DaveLaptop>

U had real good results ( after practicing..) using a hammer and dolly and a 
shrinking disc I bought off of Ebay. No filler at all.
Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A IRS
http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Oct  8 17:52:01 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2012 19:52:01 -0400
Subject: [TR] Bondo substitute. What are fellow Triumph owners using to
 fill small rusty spots?
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaHevbPmUa7GhnU97LAyDFTL7bqA25SYfs0kNBb68DMOOA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20121008235201.73JF6.149047.root@cdptpa-web19-z01>

I'm curious, what's wrong with Bondo?

As far as I know, used according to directions, it works very well.  The problems arise mostly when people try to glop it on too thick or fill large holes.  Ideally it should not be more than 1/8" thick.

Of course you have to get _all_ the rust out first or it will just come back.

--- Randall

From dconnitt at fuse.net  Mon Oct  8 18:15:29 2012
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2012 20:15:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] Bondo substitute. What are fellow Triumph owners using to
 fill small rusty spots?
Message-ID: <565671349C58479D8917986DD4601166@DaveLaptop>

List,
My mistake,
I only read what I wanted to see.. The shrinking disc is used to remove dents.
not rust..
Dave Connitt

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Oct  8 19:01:29 2012
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2012 21:01:29 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Update: A type overdrive solenoid problem? On to Galveston
 for VTR.
Message-ID: <28578.46ad1094.3da4d168@cs.com>

Don't forget to swap the diode around if you change polarities.

Dave

In a message dated 10/8/2012 3:30:30 PM Central Daylight Time, 
tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: 
> FWIW I had that problem several times, until I added a diode snubber.  My 
> theory is that the original relay had oversize and/or precious metal 
> contacts, to deal with the arcing caused by kickback from the solenoid; but the 
> replacements I tried did not.  At any rate, I had two reproduction relays 
> and a Bosch general purpose relay all quit working reliably within less than 
> a year of daily driving.  After adding the diode, even the "cheap chinese" 
> general purpose relay is still working fine many years later.
> 
> http://tinyurl.com/2dcppeo

From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Mon Oct  8 20:50:12 2012
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Mon, 8 Oct 2012 22:50:12 -0400
Subject: [TR] BBC 4 - Timeshift - The Golden Age Of British Sports Cars
Message-ID: <CAPK7CFCPsFpPGiWjz7toCDRPzzOJozZHTzRUcc3-5a_CWAWDaw@mail.gmail.com>

Cross-posted from the TR Register Forum.
http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?showtopic=37497

Well worth viewing.  The BBC iPlayer programs are only available for
viewing in the UK.  Some video is on YouTube for now giving an idea of the
progam -- see post 7 in the thread above for embedded links for the whole
program broken into smaller bits.  But look quick... no telling how long it
will be active.

Part 1: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zYV1ceBBtJw&feature=player_embedded
Part 2: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jGDNk4nVjdM&feature=player_embedded
Part 3: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qZWl6XHwCQo&feature=player_embedded

Don
1962 TR3B TSF202L

From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Tue Oct  9 08:13:43 2012
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2012 10:13:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] BBC 4 - Timeshift - The Golden Age Of British Sports Cars
In-Reply-To: <CAPK7CFCPsFpPGiWjz7toCDRPzzOJozZHTzRUcc3-5a_CWAWDaw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPK7CFCPsFpPGiWjz7toCDRPzzOJozZHTzRUcc3-5a_CWAWDaw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPK7CFBcjppg49o4EGJVfGE20xPEP=foyA9vbBLCtkwpbEWEPQ@mail.gmail.com>

And here's the last part:
Part 4: http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=cY44nAJLb34

On Mon, Oct 8, 2012 at 10:50 PM, Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com> wrote:

> Cross-posted from the TR Register Forum.
> http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?showtopic=37497
>
> Well worth viewing.  The BBC iPlayer programs are only available for
> viewing in the UK.  Some video is on YouTube for now giving an idea of the
> progam -- see post 7 in the thread above for embedded links for the whole
> program broken into smaller bits.  But look quick... no telling how long it
> will be active.
>
> Part 1: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zYV1ceBBtJw&feature=player_embedded
> Part 2: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jGDNk4nVjdM&feature=player_embedded
> Part 3: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qZWl6XHwCQo&feature=player_embedded
>
> Don
> 1962 TR3B TSF202L

From allenhess at mgcarclub.com  Tue Oct  9 13:58:34 2012
From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess)
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2012 15:58:34 -0400
Subject: [TR]  89mm pistons & liners
In-Reply-To: <mailman.24.1349805604.21437.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.24.1349805604.21437.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <B74377EC-1E15-457E-9225-1B2436C18731@mgcarclub.com>

Has anyone used the 89mm piston and liner set? (available from Moss  
and BPNW) It would be for a "street" engine and the improved piston  
design and made in the UK is what interests me more than the  
additional 2mm. It's cheaper now than a year or two ago, but still  
around 2x the standard 87mm set of unknown origin. (anyone know where  
these are coming from these days?)

Any other opinions on engine parts appreciated.

Allen
TR4
Bethlehem, PA

From blambert at socal.rr.com  Tue Oct  9 15:22:06 2012
From: blambert at socal.rr.com (D&B Lambert)
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2012 14:22:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A Overheating - Outcome
In-Reply-To: <865a.3eb37fbd.3d9bb105@aol.com>
References: <865a.3eb37fbd.3d9bb105@aol.com>
Message-ID: <443B1B7212FA4AFD83651D20D9CC0964@Lambert1>

Thank you to all who responded to my TR3A overheating question of a couple
of weeks ago.  FWIW, here is what happened.

After calling around a bit, I took my radiator down to a local shop.  The
guy took some time explaining to me about the different types of cores,
cooling tube arrangements, etc.  He suggested that we just "boil out" the
rad and see if/how much flow improved.  He didn't recommend "rodding"
because he felt that it would just stress the tubes and possibly cause leaks
with a radiator this old.  The cost for boiling out was $60 vs $480 for a
new "high efficiency" re-core.  I chose the cheaper route.  I'll see if I
get any cooling improvement when it's back in the car and running in the
heat, and at prolonged idle.  If not, it's a re-core before next year's
heat.  The "boil-out" did result in noticeably improved flow, so I'm
cautiously optimistic.  We'll see.

Thanks again, Dennis

 

I'm imagining that the radiator must be getting crudded up.  It's an
original radiator, still with the crank hole, and was rodded about 10 years
ago.   I'm thinking it's finally time to
replace it.  My choices are: 1) getting the original re-rodded, 2) having a
local radiator shop install a modern core, or 3) buying a new aluminum
radiator from one of the big three.  Keeping the crank hole is not important
for me; the only use I have had for it was to use the crank when adjusting
the valves (for that it's pretty handy).  

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Oct  9 16:41:08 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2012 18:41:08 -0400
Subject: [TR] 89mm pistons & liners
In-Reply-To: <B74377EC-1E15-457E-9225-1B2436C18731@mgcarclub.com>
Message-ID: <20121009224108.7RO97.154462.root@cdptpa-web19-z01>

---- Allen Hess <allenhess at mgcarclub.com> wrote: 
> Has anyone used the 89mm piston and liner set? (available from Moss  
> and BPNW) It would be for a "street" engine and the improved piston  
> design and made in the UK

I haven't installed mine yet, but it sounds like maybe you have a different set than I do.  Do Moss & BPNW really claim they are made in the UK?

I got mine from BFE (who didn't recommend them for street use) and AFAIK all the components were made right here in the USA.  Deves piston rings, Venolia pistons, and custom liners by LA Sleeve.  I don't recall if Ken said where the gaskets came from, but I wouldn't be surprised if they were made by GasketWorks.  These are all very well respected companies, practically legendary in the high performance engine parts business.

Randall

From rjones at wfeca.net  Tue Oct  9 16:54:05 2012
From: rjones at wfeca.net (Robert Jones)
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2012 17:54:05 -0500
Subject: [TR] A/C
In-Reply-To: <20121009224108.7RO97.154462.root@cdptpa-web19-z01>
References: <20121009224108.7RO97.154462.root@cdptpa-web19-z01>
Message-ID: <63617F9F-C508-4AF1-998E-DF0C15544FE4@wfeca.net>

Hi All

Need some advice on A/C.  Took my TR8  to a shop for replacement of
Compressor, Dryer and Expansion Valve.  A/C was cooling but compressor was
making noise.  The shop mechanic (?) installed the  compressor and dryer but
while trying to install the new expansion valve twisted the nut connecting the
condenser off and bent the copper tubing.  Needless to say I brought home a
wounded car.
This was in March.  The car has been stored since in the closed garage.  i
undertook to fix it last week.  Expansion valve very hard to get to,
especially trying to repair connection.  Found the mechanic had left the
condenser line open.  I have purchased a line repair connection and trimmed
the twisted line and now I am  ready to install a new expansion valve.I am now
looking at flushing the system, evac the lines and filling with freon.  I have
a new dryer also as the previous new one was left open.  Question:  Should the
expansion valve be installed before flushing?  Is flushing worth it?  If so,
any recommended solvent?  Wouldn't the new dryer be installed after flushing
and before evac and filling with freon?

Thanks for the help.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Oct  9 17:02:46 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2012 19:02:46 -0400
Subject: [TR] 89mm pistons & liners
In-Reply-To: <20121009184250.26277ovp3zi9asyi@webmail.ldpart.co.uk>
Message-ID: <20121009230246.8Z11S.154580.root@cdptpa-web19-z01>

---- Allen Hess <allenhess at mgcarclub.com> wrote: 
> Has anyone used the 89mm piston and liner set? (available from Moss  
> and BPNW) It would be for a "street" engine and the improved piston  
> design and made in the UK

I haven't installed mine yet, but it sounds like maybe you have a different set than I do.  Do Moss & BPNW really claim they are made in the UK?

I got mine from BFE (who didn't recommend them for street use) and AFAIK all the components were made right here in the USA.  Deves piston rings, Venolia pistons, and custom liners by LA Sleeve.  I don't recall if Ken said where the gaskets came from, but I wouldn't be surprised if they were made by GasketWorks.  These are all very well respected companies, practically legendary in the high performance engine parts business.

Randall

From lgmtr6 at yahoo.com  Tue Oct  9 18:23:02 2012
From: lgmtr6 at yahoo.com (Triumph List)
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2012 20:23:02 -0400
Subject: [TR] BBC 4 - Timeshift - The Golden Age Of British Sports Cars
In-Reply-To: <CAPK7CFBcjppg49o4EGJVfGE20xPEP=foyA9vbBLCtkwpbEWEPQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPK7CFCPsFpPGiWjz7toCDRPzzOJozZHTzRUcc3-5a_CWAWDaw@mail.gmail.com>
	<CAPK7CFBcjppg49o4EGJVfGE20xPEP=foyA9vbBLCtkwpbEWEPQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8A7F7F67-F6C4-408A-BCE3-E12C3A060602@yahoo.com>

Fantastic! By the way, part 4 is also on You Tube and comes up if you search
"Golden Age of British Sports Cars."
Larry Miceli
58 TR3
73 Triumph Stag
74 TR6
71 XKE OTS
87 XJ6 VDP

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 9, 2012, at 10:13 AM, Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com> wrote:

> And here's the last part:
> Part 4: http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=cY44nAJLb34
>
> On Mon, Oct 8, 2012 at 10:50 PM, Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Cross-posted from the TR Register Forum.
>> http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?showtopic=37497
>>
>> Well worth viewing.  The BBC iPlayer programs are only available for
>> viewing in the UK.  Some video is on YouTube for now giving an idea of the
>> progam -- see post 7 in the thread above for embedded links for the whole
>> program broken into smaller bits.  But look quick... no telling how long
it
>> will be active.
>>
>> Part 1: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zYV1ceBBtJw&feature=player_embedded
>> Part 2: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jGDNk4nVjdM&feature=player_embedded
>> Part 3: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qZWl6XHwCQo&feature=player_embedded
>>
>> Don
>> 1962 TR3B TSF202L
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/lgmtr6 at yahoo.com

From allenhess at mgcarclub.com  Tue Oct  9 18:27:11 2012
From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess)
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2012 20:27:11 -0400
Subject: [TR] 89mm pistons & liners
In-Reply-To: <20121009230246.8Z11S.154580.root@cdptpa-web19-z01>
References: <20121009230246.8Z11S.154580.root@cdptpa-web19-z01>
Message-ID: <CC4A49FE-63DD-4FCA-9247-31597ACE4FF3@mgcarclub.com>

I haven't purchased any yet. The BPNW page has a Powertune logo with  
the British flag, though I can't find them on the web.
http://www.bpnorthwest.com/index.php/triumph/tr2-tr3-tr4-tr4a/piston-and-liner-kit-89mm.html
Moss doesn't say where they are made but the description and image of  
the piston is very much the same.

I didn't know BFE also made a set until Marty Sukey mentioned it.

Do you plan to use yours for the street?

Allen

On Oct 9, 2012, at 7:02 PM, Randall wrote:

>
> ---- Allen Hess <allenhess at mgcarclub.com> wrote:
>> Has anyone used the 89mm piston and liner set? (available from Moss
>> and BPNW) It would be for a "street" engine and the improved piston
>> design and made in the UK
>
> I haven't installed mine yet, but it sounds like maybe you have a  
> different set than I do.  Do Moss & BPNW really claim they are made  
> in the UK?
>
> I got mine from BFE (who didn't recommend them for street use) and  
> AFAIK all the components were made right here in the USA.  Deves  
> piston rings, Venolia pistons, and custom liners by LA Sleeve.  I  
> don't recall if Ken said where the gaskets came from, but I wouldn't  
> be surprised if they were made by GasketWorks.  These are all very  
> well respected companies, practically legendary in the high  
> performance engine parts business.
>
> Randall

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Tue Oct  9 18:54:20 2012
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2012 20:54:20 -0400
Subject: [TR] 89mm pistons & liners
In-Reply-To: <CC4A49FE-63DD-4FCA-9247-31597ACE4FF3@mgcarclub.com>
References: <20121009230246.8Z11S.154580.root@cdptpa-web19-z01>
	<CC4A49FE-63DD-4FCA-9247-31597ACE4FF3@mgcarclub.com>
Message-ID: <CANhzkeOSRx65+=Mq4MG87OtK97fzFQp9zB_SCxs26xmSujk3Vg@mail.gmail.com>

I bought county line liners and pistons. Was surprised that the pistons
were a lot heavier than the worn out hepolites.

I did a careful job to balance them and they were quite close.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Oct  9 19:01:08 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2012 21:01:08 -0400
Subject: [TR] A/C
In-Reply-To: <63617F9F-C508-4AF1-998E-DF0C15544FE4@wfeca.net>
Message-ID: <20121010010109.ZFGNF.155233.root@cdptpa-web19-z01>

---- Robert Jones <rjones at wfeca.net> wrote: 
> Question:  Should the
> expansion valve be installed before flushing?  Is flushing worth it?  If so,
> any recommended solvent?  Wouldn't the new dryer be installed after flushing
> and before evac and filling with freon?

No need for flushing, IMO.  That's for when you've had a compressor failure that dumped garbage in the system, or have too much oil or something.

If you do flush, don't flush through either the receiver/dryer or the expansion valve.  Disconnect the evaporator and condenser and flush them independently.  And unless you flush with refrigerant, be darn sure to get all of the solvent back out.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Oct  9 19:01:24 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2012 21:01:24 -0400
Subject: [TR] A/C
Message-ID: <20121010010124.Z6S4X.155235.root@cdptpa-web19-z01>

---- Robert Jones <rjones at wfeca.net> wrote: 
> Question:  Should the
> expansion valve be installed before flushing?  Is flushing worth it?  If so,
> any recommended solvent?  Wouldn't the new dryer be installed after flushing
> and before evac and filling with freon?

No need for flushing, IMO.  That's for when you've had a compressor failure that dumped garbage in the system, or have too much oil or something.

If you do flush, don't flush through either the receiver/dryer or the expansion valve.  Disconnect the evaporator and condenser and flush them independently.  And unless you flush with refrigerant, be darn sure to get all of the solvent back out.

Randall

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Wed Oct 10 17:16:28 2012
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2012 16:16:28 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] tr-3 grill
Message-ID: <1349910988.444.YahooMailNeo@web120604.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Started installing a new grill and found the fit to be a challenge.  I think
I'll need to do some bending and tweaking.............maybe more than I wanted
or feel confident about.  It seems to be a little larger than expected and
also will need to have a little more of a "bow" bent into it.  I I think it
will also need numerous fittings in and out, and with the protruding "nibs"
around the attachment holes I'm not wanting to scratch paint although I know
it probably won't show when installed.
Just wondering whether others have run
into this and what they've done.  Does one bend the grill around the edges to
make it slide in better or do some more major bending to fit?  


thanks

gary
n.

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Wed Oct 10 18:10:49 2012
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2012 17:10:49 -0700
Subject: [TR] tr-3 grill
In-Reply-To: <1349910988.444.YahooMailNeo@web120604.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1349910988.444.YahooMailNeo@web120604.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <50760E89.5090107@gmail.com>

On 10/10/12 4:16 PM, Gary Nafziger wrote:
> Started installing a new grill and found the fit to be a challenge.  I think
> I'll need to do some bending and tweaking.............maybe more than I wanted
> or feel confident about.  It seems to be a little larger than expected and
> also will need to have a little more of a "bow" bent into it.
That usually means that someone with a bit of weight rested their 
posterior in the middle of the front valance.  Probably more than once 
and bent the upper lip of the valance down a little.  Your car's mouth 
is very likely not quite open as high as it was from the factory.  It 
seems a common problem that does not seem to be the fault of the grille.

Sorry but I'm not sure of the best way to recover from that if the front 
valance is painted.

TeriAnn

From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Wed Oct 10 20:04:15 2012
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2012 21:04:15 -0500
Subject: [TR] tr-3 grill
In-Reply-To: <1349910988.444.YahooMailNeo@web120604.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1349910988.444.YahooMailNeo@web120604.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAPK7CFDkr-z_S+KRZaY0HqtqHd=tsxg0oDJB1FBHQoQnGqLjXA@mail.gmail.com>

Here's a guy who opened up the grille mouth on his TR3A using a bottle
jack.  Seemed to work pretty well...

http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?s=12265f0fcaebe481d6620f9b7690fdb7&showtopic=37429

See post #11.

Don
1962 TR3B TSF202L


On 10/10/12, Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg at yahoo.com> wrote:
> Started installing a new grill and found the fit to be a challenge.  I
> think
> I'll need to do some bending and tweaking.............maybe more than I
> wanted
> or feel confident about.  It seems to be a little larger than expected and
> also will need to have a little more of a "bow" bent into it.  I I think it
> will also need numerous fittings in and out, and with the protruding "nibs"
> around the attachment holes I'm not wanting to scratch paint although I
> know
> it probably won't show when installed.
> Just wondering whether others have run
> into this and what they've done.  Does one bend the grill around the edges
> to
> make it slide in better or do some more major bending to fit?
>
>
> thanks
>
> gary
> n.
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Wed Oct 10 20:06:11 2012
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2012 22:06:11 -0400
Subject: [TR] tr-3 grill
In-Reply-To: <1349910988.444.YahooMailNeo@web120604.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1349910988.444.YahooMailNeo@web120604.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CANhzkeMf7Bz-mwtyt25Jnca+P2GWK_ODKwx=iU74j0auyb_1tw@mail.gmail.com>

One of my triumph buddies wanted to get a rough tr3 so he could ramble
around in a rat rod - so to speak.he has a sweet tr250 that lives in a
plastic bubble in his garare. He wanted something he did not have to worry
about. He paid too much on ebay and it was not as represented - the front
of the frame was Swiss cheese.

We started disasemmlbing it and the grill was warped and bent and did not
fit well at all.

Immedatiaely we stopped and tried to reassemble - no way

So we put the front apron on the car and it was really tweaked.   A few
hours later - with some force and 2x4's and more force - we finally got the
apron to fit without a huge amount of pressure.  There was some sorting out
to do.

More than a few minutes with the hammer and dolly and it was fitting well.

The grill fit a ton better - but not perfiect. We'll work on that some more
later - but until then - he has a driver!

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Oct 10 23:21:25 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2012 22:21:25 -0700
Subject: [TR] tr-3 grill
In-Reply-To: <1349910988.444.YahooMailNeo@web120604.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1349910988.444.YahooMailNeo@web120604.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <13a901cda770$42e21160$0601a8c0@randall>

> It seems to be a little larger than 
> expected and
> also will need to have a little more of a "bow" bent into it. 

I had that problem with my TR3A (which I assume is what you are talking
about).  My fault, really, as I didn't give the body shop any measurements
for the grille opening after some kind person backed into me in a parking
lot and didn't even leave a note.

But the grille was fairly soft, easy to bend by hand, and IMO didn't look
too bad with a significant curve bent into it.

Here's a shot where you can kind of see the curve:
http://tinyurl.com/9mvtdnm

After bending the center enough to fit into the opening, I used some love
taps with a body hammer to work the rolled edge back down against the body.

-- Randall  

From jdabars at att.net  Thu Oct 11 01:49:52 2012
From: jdabars at att.net (Janis Dabars)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2012 00:49:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] #1/4  British Sports Cars--the golden years
Message-ID: <1349941792.53900.YahooMailClassic@web185004.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

--- On Wed, 10/10/12, Janis Dabars <jdabars at att.net> wrote:


From: Janis Dabars <jdabars at att.net>
Subject: British Sports Cars----The golden age 1








klick on blue printing             15 minutes
 
www.youtube.com/watch?v=zYV1ceBBtJw

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Thu Oct 11 10:08:39 2012
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2012 11:08:39 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] tr-3 grill
Message-ID: <6939283.2305501.1349971719298.JavaMail.root@vznit170176>

Gary & List.
see: www.photobucket.com/TR3A-Grill-Opening 

I still have the top edge form sitting in the garage if anyone wants to use it - 
 

On 10/10/12, Gary Nafziger wrote:

Started installing a new grill and found the fit to be a challenge. I think
I'll need to do some bending and tweaking.............maybe more than I wanted
or feel confident about. It seems to be a little larger than expected and
also will need to have a little more of a "bow" bent into it. I I think it
will also need numerous fittings in and out, and with the protruding "nibs"
around the attachment holes I'm not wanting to scratch paint although I know
it probably won't show when installed.
Just wondering whether others have run
into this and what they've done. Does one bend the grill around the edges to
make it slide in better or do some more major bending to fit? 


thanks

gary
n.

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Thu Oct 11 10:41:05 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2012 09:41:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] driving rally
Message-ID: <1349973665.19113.YahooMailNeo@web120006.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

thinking of organizing a driving rally like they do at t-fest for a small local group.
would any one have an old instruction sheet i could take a look at to use as a format for my route?
thanks
Frank

From jhassall at blacksburg.net  Thu Oct 11 18:51:19 2012
From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2012 20:51:19 -0400
Subject: [TR] 89mm pistons & liners
In-Reply-To: <B74377EC-1E15-457E-9225-1B2436C18731@mgcarclub.com>
References: <mailman.24.1349805604.21437.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<B74377EC-1E15-457E-9225-1B2436C18731@mgcarclub.com>
Message-ID: <50776987.2020009@blacksburg.net>

On 10/9/2012 3:58 PM, Allen Hess wrote:
> Has anyone used the 89mm piston and liner set? (available from Moss 
> and BPNW) It would be for a "street" engine and the improved piston 
> design and made in the UK is what interests me more than the 
> additional 2mm. It's cheaper now than a year or two ago, but still 
> around 2x the standard 87mm set of unknown origin. (anyone know where 
> these are coming from these days?)
>
> Any other opinions on engine parts appreciated.
>
> Allen
> TR4
> Bethlehem, PA
I bought a set from BPNW 2 years ago.  The package had a Union Jack on 
it.  One wrist pin clip was missing, which took forever to be replaced 
by BPNW.  They didn't include ring setting dimensions, and, 
interestingly, the rings were a mixed set.  The compression rings were 
Deves units, but not the oil ring.  The pistons were feather-light and 
very easy to balance dead nuts.  One thing that I ****hated**** about 
the pistons was the lack of quality control on the compression 
distance.  Since I'm A.R. to a fault, I had to face 3 of them, so they 
are all now 0.019 below the deck.  That's a HUGE loss of cylinder 
volume.  I was NOT happy.

That said, in two years they may have fixed those issues.

hth

jim

-- 
Jim Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
99% finished, 90% to go

From keithstewart at execulink.com  Thu Oct 11 20:59:55 2012
From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2012 22:59:55 -0400
Subject: [TR] driving rally
In-Reply-To: <mailman.19.1349978403.11941.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.19.1349978403.11941.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <33D1B1B7-3024-4F7E-A8CF-1ADC3514CEC9@execulink.com>

On Thu, 11 Oct 2012, at 9:41 AM, Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com> wrote:

>
> thinking of organizing a driving rally like they do at t-fest for a small
local group.
> would any one have an old instruction sheet i could take a look at to use as
a format for my route?
> thanks
> Frank
Not really a rally and I have not seen what is used at Triumphfest, but I
created one of the tours for the 6 Pack TRials and I have sent you the Word
version. If this is what you have in mind, you can just change the
instructions and distances.


Keith R. Stewart
London, Ontario
E-Mail: keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom

From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Fri Oct 12 09:40:01 2012
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 11:40:01 -0400
Subject: [TR] RIP Annie Soisbault (TR3 rallying star in 1950s)
Message-ID: <CAPK7CFAvWUg-X7vvgZyLqWeTh7fhpW+HEobAp+_yXGfAjOyUOw@mail.gmail.com>

An important part of Triumph racing history has left us.
http://www.classicandsportscar.com/news/obituaries/motor-sport-world-mourns-female-pioneer?utm

Don
1962 Triumph TR3B TSF202L

From peterara at msn.com  Sat Oct 13 15:02:02 2012
From: peterara at msn.com (Peter Arakelian)
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2012 14:02:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] Overheating with unique solution
Message-ID: <COL122-DS8E3E15C150B3884C34DD7C1730@phx.gbl>

As those of you who travelled with me to and from Triumphest and some who were
there know, I had an issue with overheating.  The solution was unique, but to
appreciate it let me give you some background.
My car, 1971 TR6, has never overheated.  I have had it to Lake Havasu,
Laughlin, Barstow, Palmdale, other places where it was well over 100 degrees.
In stop and go it may go up some, but as soon as we move temp comes right
down.  Because of this, I did not check the overflow bottle as much as I
should - may be every few months.  For the last year or two, every time I
checked it, it was empty,  The radiator was full, but the bottle was empty.  I
would half fill and go on.
In the weeks prior to Triumphest, the water pump bearing started making some
noise, so I replaced it.  At the same time I replaced the top hose, it was a
little swollen, replaced the thermostat, which I checked and it did open at
temperature, and checked the radiator cap.  The seal at the base of the cap,
where it actually closes off the radiator core, had some pieces broken off the
edge - it looked like a mouse had been chewing on it.  I replaced it.  I
filled the system and the water bottle and drove off.  After the next several
trips, the bottle was always empty.  At first I figured it was the system
filling, but after a few times I realized I was losing water somehow.  No
leaks. No overheating.
I decided to make the trip anyway.  We went from southern CA via Barstow to
overnight in Laughlin.  No problems.  I checked they water in HOT Barstow,
none in the bottle, half filled it.  When we got to Laughlin, about 4PM, I
left the group to run an errand.  When I stopped water was boiling out of the
overflow bottle.  When I restarted to go back to the hotel, the temperature
came right down.  When I got gas I put more water in the bottle, and the next
day we went to Flagstaff.  No problems until the return trip stop in Barstow.
It was boiling out the bottle again, but no overheating on the gauge.
When we got back I took it to a radiator shop we use.  He flushed the system
and checked the radiator flow.  All was excellent.  So I was thinking it must
be the head gasket, even though I was not blowing white smoke.  Then I spoke
with our resident mechanic.  He told me to check the radiator cap.  I told him
I had just replaced it.
Now here it comes:  He explained that the radiator cap is a two direction
valve.  One opens at the rated pressure, the other is on the underside,
radiator core side, of that to let the water back in from the bottle.  He said
check under that.  Sure enough I checked and there were some pieces of hard
rubber - like had broken off the main seal.  Remember my chewed up seal on the
old cap?  Cleaned them out, washed-out my overflow bottle, pulled the overflow
tube off the base of the bottle, and so far no more water loss!  Figure water
was just blowing out the partially opened secondary valve causing all my
problems.

Peter

From jtnichols at comcast.net  Sun Oct 14 09:08:01 2012
From: jtnichols at comcast.net (John T Nichols)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2012 11:08:01 -0400
Subject: [TR] Dubai TR3B
Message-ID: <507AD551.9020200@comcast.net>

On the Triumph Experience site there is an ad for a 1962 TR3B located in 
Dubai with an asking price of $111,000. It looks nice in the photos but 
not that nice.

John T Nichols
'58 TR3A TS32093LO
'86TVR 280i

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Sun Oct 14 09:23:00 2012
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (trmarty at hotmail.com)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2012 11:23:00 -0400
Subject: [TR] Jag alt.
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP2717C901365A18BD8A70622BA720@phx.gbl>

I know this is non triumph but... we are on a weekend car rally and a buddies 65 xke jag alternator took a dump. Made it to the hotel. Anybody have a reference to a substitute alternator we might be able to buy at a FLAPS?

Marty


Sent via DroidX2 on Verizon Wirelessb"

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sun Oct 14 09:27:07 2012
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2012 08:27:07 -0700
Subject: [TR] Dubai TR3B
In-Reply-To: <507AD551.9020200@comcast.net>
References: <507AD551.9020200@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bGL4K_=q5k9wXAt4yEzy1V7WZoN4Bs8WEZ0MHhFs2MchQ@mail.gmail.com>

Isn't this the same country where an Astin Martin owner flew his car to the
UK for an oil change & service?

Geo

On Sun, Oct 14, 2012 at 8:08 AM, John T Nichols <jtnichols at comcast.net>wrote:

> On the Triumph Experience site there is an ad for a 1962 TR3B located in
> Dubai with an asking price of $111,000. It looks nice in the photos but not
> that nice.

From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk  Sun Oct 14 09:38:11 2012
From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2012 16:38:11 +0100 (BST)
Subject: [TR] Dubai TR3B
In-Reply-To: <507AD551.9020200@comcast.net>
References: <507AD551.9020200@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1350229091.34830.YahooMailNeo@web29405.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

Having visited Dubai on many occasions, I'd speculate its probably the only
one left there - and let's face it, gold plated Rolls Royces and Bugatti
Veyrons are more their sort of transport which may explain the price?
 
In any
case, anyone wanting to drive an open car of any make in those temperatures
(at any time of the year) would need to have their heads examined. With the
average standard of Arab driving, I'd feel happier (and safer) in an armour
plated Humvee

Jonmac


http://standard-triumph-books.co.uk
>________________________________
> From: John T Nichols
<jtnichols at comcast.net>
>To: triumphs at autox.team.net 
>Sent: Sunday, 14
October 2012, 16:08
>Subject: [TR] Dubai TR3B
>  
>On the Triumph Experience
site there is an ad for a 1962 TR3B located in Dubai with an asking price of
$111,000. It looks nice in the photos but not that nice.
>
>John T Nichols
>'58 TR3A TS32093LO
>'86TVR 280i
>
>** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
>Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk

From triumphstag at gmail.com  Sun Oct 14 10:06:40 2012
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2012 09:06:40 -0700
Subject: [TR] wet and dry
Message-ID: <CANLCLaGKUSK7bU-Zx_tX9d7PFOqwFn7sK+4sJ1UVAnrJdjE+Ew@mail.gmail.com>

A stag I'm working on was poorly resprayed from red to blue. My hunch is
the guy who did it didn't prep very well. I'd like to rub it down and
expose the red , but not cut into the red. What grade/number of wet and dry
should I use?

Sujit

-- 
Sujit Roy, Realtor
Cupertino, CA
(408) 839-8359

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Oct 14 11:26:38 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2012 10:26:38 -0700
Subject: [TR] Jag alt.
In-Reply-To: <BLU0-SMTP2717C901365A18BD8A70622BA720@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU0-SMTP2717C901365A18BD8A70622BA720@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <166001cdaa31$11d84d00$0601a8c0@randall>

> I know this is non triumph but... we are on a weekend car 
> rally and a buddies 65 xke jag alternator took a dump. Made 
> it to the hotel. Anybody have a reference to a substitute 
> alternator we might be able to buy at a FLAPS?

Best I can make out, a 65 XKE would use a Lucas 11AC externally regulated,
same as my early Stags.

Sorry, I don't know of anything available from FLAPS that would be a simple
parking-lot replacement.  They are pretty simple though, tomorrow your
friend could probably find a local "auto electric" shop that could fix it.

In the meantime, see if maybe there is someone else on the rally that would
swap batteries with you periodically.

-- Randall  

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Oct 14 15:12:26 2012
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2012 17:12:26 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Jag alt.
Message-ID: <41ec.5638e141.3dac84ba@cs.com>

I'll bet the old Saturn alternator swap used on TR7's and 8's will work but 
you will have to get the right pulley and swap pulleys.

But it might be cheaper to just buy another battery and drive.  I drove all 
the way back from Summer Party (10+ hours) on a battery.  Just don't drive 
at night.  Lights will kill a battery in an hour or two.

Dave

In a message dated 10/14/2012 10:22:52 AM Central Daylight Time, 
trmarty at hotmail.com writes: 
> I know this is non triumph but... we are on a weekend car rally and a 
> buddies 65 xke jag alternator took a dump. Made it to the hotel. Anybody have 
> a reference to a substitute alternator we might be able to buy at a FLAPS?

From jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com  Sun Oct 14 15:57:10 2012
From: jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com (John Young)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2012 14:57:10 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Jag alt.
In-Reply-To: <41ec.5638e141.3dac84ba@cs.com>
References: <41ec.5638e141.3dac84ba@cs.com>
Message-ID: <1350251830.1270.YahooMailNeo@web181102.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Earlier this year, I lost the alternator out of my '78 spit at a british car
festival, bought a cheap charger, charged the battery and drove home that way.
Still enough charge to start several times.


John Young NASS# 528
Indiana
'78
Spitfire
'66 Spitfire
'59 TR3A (being repaired after 37 yrs ownership)
________________________________
 From: "Dave1massey at cs.com"
<Dave1massey at cs.com>
To: trmarty at hotmail.com; triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent:
Sunday, October 14, 2012 5:12 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Jag alt.
  
I'll bet the
old Saturn alternator swap used on TR7's and 8's will work but 
you will have
to get the right pulley and swap pulleys.

But it might be cheaper to just buy
another battery and drive.  I drove all 
the way back from Summer Party (10+
hours) on a battery.  Just don't drive 
at night.  Lights will kill a battery
in an hour or two.

Dave

In a message dated 10/14/2012 10:22:52 AM Central
Daylight Time, 
trmarty at hotmail.com writes: 
> I know this is non triumph
but... we are on a weekend car rally and a 
> buddies 65 xke jag alternator
took a dump. Made it to the hotel. Anybody have 
> a reference to a substitute
alternator we might be able to buy at a FLAPS?

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From spook01 at comcast.net  Sun Oct 14 17:20:46 2012
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2012 18:20:46 -0500
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Jag_alt=2E?=
Message-ID: <mailman.6.1350256655.32719.triumphs@autox.team.net>

Most of the single wire alternators will work fine.  You should be able to bolt it up using spacers.
Don't forget to change it for the next JAG show...they won't accept one that isn't trailing smoke!  ;-)

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: Dave1massey at cs.com
To: <trmarty at hotmail.com>, <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Jag alt.
Date: Sun, Oct 14, 2012 16:12


I'll bet the old Saturn alternator swap used on TR7's and 8's will work but 
you will have to get the right pulley and swap pulleys.

But it might be cheaper to just buy another battery and drive.  I drove all 
the way back from Summer Party (10+ hours) on a battery.  Just don't drive 
at night.  Lights will kill a battery in an hour or two.

Dave

In a message dated 10/14/2012 10:22:52 AM Central Daylight Time, 
trmarty at hotmail.com writes: 
> I know this is non triumph but... we are on a weekend car rally and a 
> buddies 65 xke jag alternator took a dump. Made it to the hotel. Anybody have 
> a reference to a substitute alternator we might be able to buy at a FLAPS?

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From auprichard at uprichard.net  Sun Oct 14 17:52:51 2012
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2012 19:52:51 -0400
Subject: [TR] wet and dry
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaGKUSK7bU-Zx_tX9d7PFOqwFn7sK+4sJ1UVAnrJdjE+Ew@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaGKUSK7bU-Zx_tX9d7PFOqwFn7sK+4sJ1UVAnrJdjE+Ew@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <005201cdaa67$07298f50$157cadf0$@uprichard.net>

Is this even possible - and why would you want to do it? The red underneath
will never be good enough for a nice finish.

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Sujit Roy
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2012 12:07 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] wet and dry

A stag I'm working on was poorly resprayed from red to blue. My hunch is the
guy who did it didn't prep very well. I'd like to rub it down and expose the
red , but not cut into the red. What grade/number of wet and dry should I
use?

Sujit

--
Sujit Roy, Realtor
Cupertino, CA
(408) 839-8359

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From aljlthomson at charter.net  Sun Oct 14 18:19:34 2012
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2012 20:19:34 -0400
Subject: [TR] wet and dry
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaGKUSK7bU-Zx_tX9d7PFOqwFn7sK+4sJ1UVAnrJdjE+Ew@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaGKUSK7bU-Zx_tX9d7PFOqwFn7sK+4sJ1UVAnrJdjE+Ew@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000001cdaa6a$c1303630$4390a290$@charter.net>

My Gosh - That could be a good Halloween car. Scratch it and it bleeds red!

Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Sujit Roy
Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2012 12:07 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] wet and dry

A stag I'm working on was poorly resprayed from red to blue. My hunch is the
guy who did it didn't prep very well. I'd like to rub it down and expose the
red , but not cut into the red. What grade/number of wet and dry should I
use?

Sujit

--
Sujit Roy, Realtor
Cupertino, CA
(408) 839-8359

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From glemon at neb.rr.com  Sun Oct 14 18:19:58 2012
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2012 19:19:58 -0500
Subject: [TR] wet and dry
In-Reply-To: <005201cdaa67$07298f50$157cadf0$@uprichard.net>
References: <CANLCLaGKUSK7bU-Zx_tX9d7PFOqwFn7sK+4sJ1UVAnrJdjE+Ew@mail.gmail.com>
	<005201cdaa67$07298f50$157cadf0$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <F7DDFAAC3E4F414FBD873600E84C7670@GregPC>

I would echo Andrew's comment, if it was possible it would represent 100s 
(?) of hours of painstaking work, you would need to work very slowly and 
carefully to not damage the underfinish or work through to the metal in high 
spos or ridges, that is assuming they simply painted over the old finish 
with minimal of work.  Many times a car is painted for a reason, I have 
painted over old paint, but never without a lot of sanding, filling small 
dents, door dings, what not.  An interesting idea, but would be pretty 
tricky to carry off with any kind of success.

Greg Lemon

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Sun Oct 14 18:22:45 2012
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2012 17:22:45 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] speedo cable
Message-ID: <1350260565.73921.YahooMailNeo@web120606.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Received a new speedo cable and remember some talk a while back of the need to
"fix" the tip (tr-3) as it was manufactured too long.  Does anyone remember
the specifics/measurements for this job?
thanks

gary n.

From greg at gelhar.com  Sun Oct 14 19:38:14 2012
From: greg at gelhar.com (greg at gelhar.com)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2012 21:38:14 -0400
Subject: [TR] speedo cable
In-Reply-To: <1350260565.73921.YahooMailNeo@web120606.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1350260565.73921.YahooMailNeo@web120606.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <89869e90edf8c91952931732c27052ca.squirrel@email.accountsupport.com>

This is the same information
http://www.xks.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/Speedometer-Cable-Length.pdf

Greg G.
Osseo, MN


> Received a new speedo cable and remember some talk a while back of the
> need to
> "fix" the tip (tr-3) as it was manufactured too long.  Does anyone
> remember
> the specifics/measurements for this job?
> thanks
>
> gary n.

From lherault at bu.edu  Sun Oct 14 19:49:23 2012
From: lherault at bu.edu (Ron L'Herault)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2012 21:49:23 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 on TV
Message-ID: <006c01cdaa77$4d7cb120$e8761360$@edu>

Was watching Perry Mason on ME TV and spotted a light colored TR-3.  It
supposedly belonged to a 16 yr old female student at an all girls school.
Never saw it driven in the show though.

Ron L

From wbeech at flash.net  Sun Oct 14 20:01:45 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2012 21:01:45 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 on TV
In-Reply-To: <006c01cdaa77$4d7cb120$e8761360$@edu>
References: <006c01cdaa77$4d7cb120$e8761360$@edu>
Message-ID: <818591ED-B931-4F25-838E-FB333E053547@flash.net>

Yep, there is another Perry Mason with Werner Klemperer (Commandant Klink)
driving.

Sent from mobile Bill

On Oct 14, 2012, at 8:49 PM, "Ron L'Herault" <lherault at bu.edu> wrote:

Was watching Perry Mason on ME TV and spotted a light colored TR-3.  It
supposedly belonged to a 16 yr old female student at an all girls school.
Never saw it driven in the show though.

Ron L

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sun Oct 14 20:05:30 2012
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2012 19:05:30 -0700
Subject: [TR] speedo cable
In-Reply-To: <1350260565.73921.YahooMailNeo@web120606.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1350260565.73921.YahooMailNeo@web120606.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bGnyRyEsU5+3hh_95-jOT+HO6vR8v+564K4eB8SUkHvew@mail.gmail.com>

As an alternative to shortening, I added a suitable washer to mine to back
off the cable a bit.

Geo

On Sun, Oct 14, 2012 at 5:22 PM, Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg at yahoo.com> wrote:

> Received a new speedo cable and remember some talk a while back of the
> need to
> "fix" the tip (tr-3) as it was manufactured too long.  Does anyone remember
> the specifics/measurements for this job?
> thanks
>
> gary n.

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sun Oct 14 20:09:44 2012
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2012 19:09:44 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 on TV
In-Reply-To: <818591ED-B931-4F25-838E-FB333E053547@flash.net>
References: <006c01cdaa77$4d7cb120$e8761360$@edu>
	<818591ED-B931-4F25-838E-FB333E053547@flash.net>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bHgYtd+UMf+296UwfMqQEgqvQ0oZz7aocJzQqu+bB1dAA@mail.gmail.com>

There are also a couple of TR4 episodes.  Here's some crude stills from the
two appearances mentioned:

http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/Perry.JPG

http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/tr-klink3.JPG

Geo

On Sun, Oct 14, 2012 at 7:01 PM, Wbeech <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:

> Yep, there is another Perry Mason with Werner Klemperer (Commandant Klink)
> driving.
>
> On Oct 14, 2012, at 8:49 PM, "Ron L'Herault" <lherault at bu.edu> wrote:
>
> Was watching Perry Mason on ME TV and spotted a light colored TR-3.  It
> supposedly belonged to a 16 yr old female student at an all girls school.
> Never saw it driven in the show though.

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Oct 15 04:47:21 2012
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 06:47:21 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3 on TV
Message-ID: <3ce2.3bf8e366.3dad43b8@cs.com>

That's a pre-13000 model with the single brake light.

Dave (borderline anorak)

In a message dated 10/14/2012 9:09:56 PM Central Daylight Time, 
ahwahneetr at gmail.com writes: 
> http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/tr-klink3.JPG

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Mon Oct 15 08:21:45 2012
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 07:21:45 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 on TV
In-Reply-To: <CANzE1bHgYtd+UMf+296UwfMqQEgqvQ0oZz7aocJzQqu+bB1dAA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <006c01cdaa77$4d7cb120$e8761360$@edu>
	<818591ED-B931-4F25-838E-FB333E053547@flash.net>
	<CANzE1bHgYtd+UMf+296UwfMqQEgqvQ0oZz7aocJzQqu+bB1dAA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <507C1BF9.6070601@gmail.com>

Don't forget that the original 21 Jump Street series had a TR3A that was 
a regular.  Scenes of the outside of the building often showed it out 
front.  The car belonged to the female lead in real life and she used 
her personal car when she had to drive someplace during the show.

And never forget that Ducky drives a RHD Morgan plus 4.

TeriAnn

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Mon Oct 15 08:24:03 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 10:24:03 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] REPAIR PANELS FOR TR4 FRONT FENDER/LOWER AVAILABLE
In-Reply-To: <8CF784285000B45-1798-43603@webmail-d043.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CF784285000B45-1798-43603@webmail-d043.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CF78F7DC2CCB30-1318-11D2@webmail-d170.sysops.aol.com>

 If you have a want or need:

 List,




Keith Niehaus developed the tooling to produce subjectrepair panels.The first
production run is complete.Keith is a master craftsman in manufacturing
engineering and carrestoration....he did Uncle Jack's "OLD BLUE".

Also under development is the repair panels for the TR6.NOTE: If anyone is
going to be at the VTR Convention,  Keith plans to display themthere.

There are a few pieces available right now.


Contact:  n197tr4 at cs.com

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Mon Oct 15 11:01:36 2012
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl-TR)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 13:01:36 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A Electric Fan wiring
Message-ID: <002c01cdaaf6$bcf37140$36da53c0$@verizon.net>

See image of final installation at 
http://i1001.photobucket.com/albums/af136/cfmtr3a/Information%20Items/Electr
icFanCircuit.png 

You may need to cut/paste link into your browser if team.net splits it into
two lines.
I changed the wire colors from previous version and added an alternative
switch configuration.

Carl
1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Oct 15 11:12:56 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 10:12:56 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 on TV
In-Reply-To: <3ce2.3bf8e366.3dad43b8@cs.com>
References: <3ce2.3bf8e366.3dad43b8@cs.com>
Message-ID: <176a01cdaaf8$5274f3a0$0601a8c0@randall>

> That's a pre-13000 model with the single brake light.
> 
> Dave (borderline anorak)

Actually, I believe the change point for the single brake light was 15601 in
the US.  Meaning my TR3 is only about 30 from the end.

Randall (just borderline)
56 TR3  TS13571L daily driver
71 Stag LE1473L awaiting engine rebuild
71 Stag LE2013LBW awaiting (manual) gearbox rebuild 

From GUY at GENFINITI.COM  Mon Oct 15 12:37:16 2012
From: GUY at GENFINITI.COM (G.D. Huggins)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 13:37:16 -0500
Subject: [TR] Window outer seal issue
Message-ID: <04BF9147-FE9A-464B-8D0C-4B37B06ADE71@GENFINITI.COM>

All,

I recently replaced the outer seal on my driver's side door.  (Hate those
damned clips!)
When I roll the window down, the glass "pulls" the seal down along with it,
folding the seal over making it very difficult to continue.

Unlike the seal I had before, these seals from Moss have no "fuzz", which
allows the glass to glide nicely.

Any advice other than to replace the seal with one that has fuzz?



Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Mon Oct 15 13:10:09 2012
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 12:10:09 -0700
Subject: [TR] Window outer seal issue
In-Reply-To: <04BF9147-FE9A-464B-8D0C-4B37B06ADE71@GENFINITI.COM>
References: <04BF9147-FE9A-464B-8D0C-4B37B06ADE71@GENFINITI.COM>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bHyC_7yCGxZ-hi6v0emYje+buquRpBq4xzD9p0sdnfHcA@mail.gmail.com>

Perhaps the 4A is different but I don't think the TR4 had any fuzz on the
outer seal, just plain rubber that presses and curves up a bit against the
glass.

Geo

On Mon, Oct 15, 2012 at 11:37 AM, G.D. Huggins <GUY at genfiniti.com> wrote:

> Unlike the seal I had before, these seals from Moss have no "fuzz", which
> allows the glass to glide nicely.
>
> Any advice other than to replace the seal with one that has fuzz?

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Mon Oct 15 13:16:16 2012
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 12:16:16 -0700
Subject: [TR] Lying Fuel Gauge
Message-ID: <A211EFEA-937D-4F4F-924A-8A16757D6E5B@comcast.net>

Why can't these "simple" machines, just be "simple" to fix?

	1957 TR3, the fuel gauge is lying on me b& claims to be FULL, but the engine
said "EMPTY" !  If the float had sunk it should say empty b& right?

If you remove the hot (green) wire the gauge should read empty??   Still reads
full.  Correct voltage to the green wire.  So b& must be a faulty sensor ??

Innocent minds would like to know before we start ordering parts.


Thanks for your time b&



"Life is too short to drive boring cars"

Bill Pugh
1957 TR3 "Casper"p;
TS16765L
Wallace, CA
anabil007 at comcast.net

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Mon Oct 15 13:19:36 2012
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl-TR)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 15:19:36 -0400
Subject: [TR] Window outer seal issue
In-Reply-To: <CANzE1bHyC_7yCGxZ-hi6v0emYje+buquRpBq4xzD9p0sdnfHcA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <04BF9147-FE9A-464B-8D0C-4B37B06ADE71@GENFINITI.COM>
	<CANzE1bHyC_7yCGxZ-hi6v0emYje+buquRpBq4xzD9p0sdnfHcA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <004001cdab0a$0442ed10$0cc8c730$@verizon.net>

Could the seal be installed upside down or inside out?  The curve (as George
says) should be pointed away from the glass and out from the channel.


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Geo Hahn
Sent: Monday, October 15, 2012 3:10 PM
To: G.D. Huggins
Cc: Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] Window outer seal issue

Perhaps the 4A is different but I don't think the TR4 had any fuzz on the
outer seal, just plain rubber that presses and curves up a bit against the
glass.

Geo

On Mon, Oct 15, 2012 at 11:37 AM, G.D. Huggins <GUY at genfiniti.com> wrote:

> Unlike the seal I had before, these seals from Moss have no "fuzz", 
> which allows the glass to glide nicely.
>
> Any advice other than to replace the seal with one that has fuzz?

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From tr3a.60 at gmail.com  Mon Oct 15 13:30:23 2012
From: tr3a.60 at gmail.com (John Wise)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 15:30:23 -0400
Subject: [TR] Lying Fuel Gauge
In-Reply-To: <A211EFEA-937D-4F4F-924A-8A16757D6E5B@comcast.net>
References: <A211EFEA-937D-4F4F-924A-8A16757D6E5B@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <DE6A7826-509A-4C8E-8DC1-5FA43ABC6B1E@gmail.com>

My dowel-pin dip-stick fuel gauge works fine, 3very time I use it!  :-)

John

On  15 Oct, 2012, at 3:16 PM, William Pugh <anabil007 at comcast.net> wrote:

> Why can't these "simple" machines, just be "simple" to fix?
>
> 	1957 TR3, the fuel gauge is lying on me b& claims to be FULL, but the
engine
> said "EMPTY" !  If the float had sunk it should say empty b& right?
>
> If you remove the hot (green) wire the gauge should read empty??   Still
reads
> full.  Correct voltage to the green wire.  So b& must be a faulty sensor ??
>
> Innocent minds would like to know before we start ordering parts.
>
>
> Thanks for your time b&
>
>
>
> "Life is too short to drive boring cars"
>
> Bill Pugh
> 1957 TR3 "Casper"p;
> TS16765L
> Wallace, CA
> anabil007 at comcast.net
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3a.60 at gmail.com

John Wise
Ormond Beach, FL

1960 TR3A
http://wisegroupllc.org/_/TR3A.html

1977 Porsche 911S ('86 3.2 engine)
http://wisegroupllc.org/_/Porsche.html

From triumphstag at gmail.com  Mon Oct 15 13:34:29 2012
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 12:34:29 -0700
Subject: [TR] wet and dry
In-Reply-To: <005201cdaa67$07298f50$157cadf0$@uprichard.net>
References: <CANLCLaGKUSK7bU-Zx_tX9d7PFOqwFn7sK+4sJ1UVAnrJdjE+Ew@mail.gmail.com>
	<005201cdaa67$07298f50$157cadf0$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <CANLCLaGqkv3+XhM0eZZ-7YZpJKrRg8zT=yfT4UEr18kuV8jPkg@mail.gmail.com>

My objective is to repaint cheaply in red primer for now until I can afford
a professional paint job. (probably many years down the road)  I have to
rub it down anyway so I'd like to remove the blue and expose the red and
save on the coats I'd have to do.

Hence  the question
Sujit



On Sun, Oct 14, 2012 at 4:52 PM, Andrew Uprichard
<auprichard at uprichard.net>wrote:

> Is this even possible - and why would you want to do it? The red underneath
> will never be good enough for a nice finish.
>
> Andrew Uprichard
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Sujit Roy
> Sent: Sunday, October 14, 2012 12:07 PM
> To: Triumphs
> Subject: [TR] wet and dry
>
> A stag I'm working on was poorly resprayed from red to blue. My hunch is
> the
> guy who did it didn't prep very well. I'd like to rub it down and expose
> the
> red , but not cut into the red. What grade/number of wet and dry should I
> use?
>
> Sujit
>
> --
> Sujit Roy, Realtor
> Cupertino, CA
> (408) 839-8359
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net
>
>


-- 
Sujit Roy, Realtor
Cupertino, CA
(408) 839-8359

From wbeech at flash.net  Mon Oct 15 14:16:54 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 15:16:54 -0500
Subject: [TR] Lying Fuel Gauge
In-Reply-To: <DE6A7826-509A-4C8E-8DC1-5FA43ABC6B1E@gmail.com>
References: <A211EFEA-937D-4F4F-924A-8A16757D6E5B@comcast.net>
	<DE6A7826-509A-4C8E-8DC1-5FA43ABC6B1E@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <E36B3EEA55694F92B5A4A949EFE21960@bboffice>

Bill,
Check the ground at the gauge before you go any further, also you did not
mention the ground wire at the tank, it needs to be there too.  Typically,
the gauge is self-grounded through the instrument plate but I found running
a ground wire from the thumb screw to the grounding post to be more stable.


Before you buy parts, remove the gauge and float then test it on the bench
to be sure.

My gauge read 3/4 when full and the second it hits "E", you best plan on
pushing it to the station.

Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow"
M.Andretti



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Wise
Sent: Monday, October 15, 2012 2:30 PM
To: William Pugh
Cc: TR3/6
Subject: Re: [TR] Lying Fuel Gauge

My dowel-pin dip-stick fuel gauge works fine, 3very time I use it!  :-)

John

On  15 Oct, 2012, at 3:16 PM, William Pugh <anabil007 at comcast.net> wrote:

> Why can't these "simple" machines, just be "simple" to fix?
>
> 	1957 TR3, the fuel gauge is lying on me b& claims to be FULL, but
the
engine
> said "EMPTY" !  If the float had sunk it should say empty b& right?
>
> If you remove the hot (green) wire the gauge should read empty??   Still
reads
> full.  Correct voltage to the green wire.  So b& must be a faulty sensor
??
>
> Innocent minds would like to know before we start ordering parts.
>
>
> Thanks for your time b&
>
>
>
> "Life is too short to drive boring cars"
>
> Bill Pugh
> 1957 TR3 "Casper"p;
> TS16765L
> Wallace, CA
> anabil007 at comcast.net
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3a.60 at gmail.com

John Wise
Ormond Beach, FL

1960 TR3A
http://wisegroupllc.org/_/TR3A.html

1977 Porsche 911S ('86 3.2 engine)
http://wisegroupllc.org/_/Porsche.html

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Mon Oct 15 15:21:32 2012
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 14:21:32 -0700
Subject: [TR] Lying Fuel Gauge
In-Reply-To: <E36B3EEA55694F92B5A4A949EFE21960@bboffice>
References: <A211EFEA-937D-4F4F-924A-8A16757D6E5B@comcast.net>
	<DE6A7826-509A-4C8E-8DC1-5FA43ABC6B1E@gmail.com>
	<E36B3EEA55694F92B5A4A949EFE21960@bboffice>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bGQKY6P7p1jNWhQCTRHvdjLXGJ6j8aocevgM6Y0WHN_yg@mail.gmail.com>

If you haven't seen it, this site on the (very similar) MGA fuel gauge is
quite thorough...

Fuel Gauge Tech <http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/fg_01.htm>

Geo

From mark at bradakis.com  Mon Oct 15 15:24:45 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 15:24:45 -0600
Subject: [TR] Fwd: TR3A
In-Reply-To: <1350319009.40076.YahooMailRC@web80808.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <1350319009.40076.YahooMailRC@web80808.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <507C7F1D.5080005@bradakis.com>

This was sent to me, I assumed it was meant for the list.

mjb.


-------- Original Message --------
Subject: 	TR3A
Date: 	Mon, 15 Oct 2012 09:36:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: 	Thomas Geoghan <stgeoghan at yahoo.com>
To: 	



I ordered and purchased the TR3A new while stationed with the USAF in England.
It followed me through 24 years of military service and still does. It has come
to need repairs that I am no longer able to accomplish and need assistance.
Items needed are mostly because of being garaged for the last ten years; i.e.
brakes, OD, clutch, transmission; wheels etc. Please inform of possible
restoration possibilities. The vehicle is located in Michigan.
Thanks much.
Tom Geoghan

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Mon Oct 15 15:43:56 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 14:43:56 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3 on TV
In-Reply-To: <CANzE1bHgYtd+UMf+296UwfMqQEgqvQ0oZz7aocJzQqu+bB1dAA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <006c01cdaa77$4d7cb120$e8761360$@edu>
	<818591ED-B931-4F25-838E-FB333E053547@flash.net>
	<CANzE1bHgYtd+UMf+296UwfMqQEgqvQ0oZz7aocJzQqu+bB1dAA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1350337436.39613.YahooMailNeo@web120004.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

or check out this monster list of where your car has shown up on the tv/movie
 
http://www.imcdb.org/
 
Frank

From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com>
To:
Wbeech <wbeech at flash.net> 
Cc: "<Triumphs at autox.team.net>"
<Triumphs at autox.team.net>; Ron L'Herault <lherault at bu.edu> 
Sent: Sunday,
October 14, 2012 7:09 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 on TV

There are also a couple
of TR4 episodes.  Here's some crude stills from the
two appearances mentioned:
http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/Perry.JPG
http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/tr-klink3.JPG

Geo

On Sun, Oct 14,
2012 at 7:01 PM, Wbeech <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:

> Yep, there is another
Perry Mason with Werner Klemperer (Commandant Klink)
> driving.
>
> On Oct 14,
2012, at 8:49 PM, "Ron L'Herault" <lherault at bu.edu> wrote:
>
> Was watching
Perry Mason on ME TV and spotted a light colored TR-3.  It
> supposedly
belonged to a 16 yr old female student at an all girls school.
> Never saw it
driven in the show though.

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Mon Oct 15 16:46:46 2012
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 15:46:46 -0700
Subject: [TR] wet and dry
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaGqkv3+XhM0eZZ-7YZpJKrRg8zT=yfT4UEr18kuV8jPkg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaGKUSK7bU-Zx_tX9d7PFOqwFn7sK+4sJ1UVAnrJdjE+Ew@mail.gmail.com>
	<005201cdaa67$07298f50$157cadf0$@uprichard.net>
	<CANLCLaGqkv3+XhM0eZZ-7YZpJKrRg8zT=yfT4UEr18kuV8jPkg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <507C9256.9060805@gmail.com>

On 10/15/12 12:34 PM, Sujit Roy wrote:
> My objective is to repaint cheaply in red primer for now until I can afford
> a professional paint job. (probably many years down the road)
Will Robinson warning, warning warning.  Most primers are porous to 
moisture. Can look good on the surface while starting rust underneath.

TeriAnn

From levilevi at comcast.net  Mon Oct 15 17:14:46 2012
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 17:14:46 -0600
Subject: [TR] Window outer seal issue
In-Reply-To: <04BF9147-FE9A-464B-8D0C-4B37B06ADE71@GENFINITI.COM>
References: <04BF9147-FE9A-464B-8D0C-4B37B06ADE71@GENFINITI.COM>
Message-ID: <D9D79236-4869-4811-B5A7-1102EE2BC485@comcast.net>

Try a little dish washing soap (Dawn, etc.) on the seal a few times  
and wash the window with it too. It really makes things slick and  
it'll wash away after your window and the seal become friends.


Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)







On Oct 15, 2012, at 12:37 PM, G.D. Huggins wrote:

> All,
>
> I recently replaced the outer seal on my driver's side door.  (Hate  
> those
> damned clips!)
> When I roll the window down, the glass "pulls" the seal down along  
> with it,
> folding the seal over making it very difficult to continue.
>
> Unlike the seal I had before, these seals from Moss have no "fuzz",  
> which
> allows the glass to glide nicely.
>
> Any advice other than to replace the seal with one that has fuzz?
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Guy D. Huggins
> 1965 Triumph TR4A
> CTC 63569LO
>
> Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Oct 15 19:53:48 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 21:53:48 -0400
Subject: [TR] Lying Fuel Gauge
In-Reply-To: <A211EFEA-937D-4F4F-924A-8A16757D6E5B@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20121016015348.A1OTM.25284.root@cdptpa-web19-z01>

---- William Pugh <anabil007 at comcast.net> wrote: 

> If you remove the hot (green) wire the gauge should read empty??   Still reads
> full.  Correct voltage to the green wire.  So b& must be a faulty sensor ??

That is not correct for a TR3.  The TR2-3/A/B fuel gauge works backwards to the later gauges, open circuit (high sender resistance) is full on the early gauges.  If you short the sender wire to ground, the gauge should go to empty.

The other thing to watch for is the ground to the gauge housing.  Again the TR4-6 gauges do not care, but the TR2-3 gauges require a secure ground for proper operation.  Without a ground, the gauge may go to either peg, empty or full.  Although the factory apparently relied on the ground through the mounting bracket, I advocate adding a ground wire from the mounting stud (under the knurled nut, preferably with a star-type lockwasher) over to the ground tie point on the back of the instrument panel.

Same discussion applies to the sender in the top of the fuel tank.  I have added a ground wire from the ground stud on the sender down to one of the bolts that clamps the tank to the body.

Gauges and senders do fail, but check the simple things first.

PS, I haven't read the entire thread, so my apologies if this was already covered.

Randall

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Mon Oct 15 20:41:27 2012
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2012 19:41:27 -0700
Subject: [TR] REPAIR PANELS FOR TR4 FRONT FENDER/LOWER AVAILABLE
In-Reply-To: <8CF78F7DC2CCB30-1318-11D2@webmail-d170.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CF784285000B45-1798-43603@webmail-d043.sysops.aol.com>
	<8CF78F7DC2CCB30-1318-11D2@webmail-d170.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bGcFLidAEVvXgdxJCOVNLFQzDfrL4XY5KQvrOYbR0RV6g@mail.gmail.com>

Apparently can be seen on ebay...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/61-68-Triumph-TR4-TR4A-TR250-LH-Fender-Repair-Panel-New-/120997498314?hash=item1c2c034dca&item=120997498314&pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr

Nice.


On Mon, Oct 15, 2012 at 7:24 AM, Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com> wrote:

>  If you have a want or need:
>
>  List,
>
> Keith Niehaus developed the tooling to produce subjectrepair panels.The
> first
> production run is complete...

From stgeoghan at yahoo.com  Tue Oct 16 07:34:31 2012
From: stgeoghan at yahoo.com (Thomas Geoghan)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2012 06:34:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3A
Message-ID: <1350394471.26154.YahooMailRC@web80807.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I ordered and purchased the TR3A new while stationed with the USAF in England. 
It followed me through 24 years of military service and still does. It has come 
to need repairs that I am no longer able to accomplish and need assistance. 
Items needed are mostly because of being garaged for the last ten years; i.e. 
brakes, OD, clutch, transmission; wheels etc. Please inform of possible 
restoration possibilities. The vehicle is located in Michigan.
Thanks much.
Tom Geoghan

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Tue Oct 16 08:10:47 2012
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2012 07:10:47 -0700
Subject: [TR] Interesting experience
Message-ID: <507D6AE7.1060202@gmail.com>

I had an interesting experience yesterday in the grocery store parking 
lot.  A family was standing around looking at my TR3 when I came out of 
the grocery store. Of course as I approached I asked if there were any 
questions about the car I could answer.

As it turns out the 14 year old daughter has her heart set on having a 
TR3 when she gets older. According to her parents and older brother she 
has been researching cars for a couple of years looking for a cute 
roadster/convertible that wassimple enough for her to learn to work on.  
She is hoping to find a tired driver that she could restore herself.  So 
of course the family had a lot of questions and I let her sit inside one 
for the very first time so she could get a feel for the interior. She 
got her picture taken behind the wheeland I think became even more 
determined to become a future TR3 owner.

Unfortunately they suddenly decided that they needed tobe off before 
frozen food thawed and I did not get their contact informationbefore 
they drove off.  But it was nice to see that I wasn't the only girl 
smitten by a TR3 and was willing to take restoring one on.

TeriAnn

From wbeech at flash.net  Tue Oct 16 08:27:43 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2012 09:27:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] Interesting experience
In-Reply-To: <507D6AE7.1060202@gmail.com>
References: <507D6AE7.1060202@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <F4E52DD1FFA24B65ADC638D9429B2646@bboffice>

"Train up a child in the way that she should go, and when she is grown she
will not depart from it..." (or something like that from the book of
Proverbs).  I always try to let the kids sit in the car, under supervision
of course, it is so unlike anything they would normally experience.

Well done TeriAnn, now we just need to find her a project.

Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow"
M.Andretti


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TeriAnn J. Wakeman
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2012 9:11 AM
To: Triumph List
Subject: [TR] Interesting experience

I had an interesting experience yesterday in the grocery store parking lot.
A family was standing around looking at my TR3 when I came out of the
grocery store. Of course as I approached I asked if there were any questions
about the car I could answer.

As it turns out the 14 year old daughter has her heart set on having a
TR3 when she gets older. According to her parents and older brother she has
been researching cars for a couple of years looking for a cute
roadster/convertible that wassimple enough for her to learn to work on.  
She is hoping to find a tired driver that she could restore herself.  So of
course the family had a lot of questions and I let her sit inside one for
the very first time so she could get a feel for the interior. She got her
picture taken behind the wheeland I think became even more determined to
become a future TR3 owner.

Unfortunately they suddenly decided that they needed tobe off before frozen
food thawed and I did not get their contact informationbefore they drove
off.  But it was nice to see that I wasn't the only girl smitten by a TR3
and was willing to take restoring one on.

TeriAnn

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From lee at automate-it.com  Tue Oct 16 08:45:35 2012
From: lee at automate-it.com (Lee Daniels)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2012 09:45:35 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3A
In-Reply-To: <1350394471.26154.YahooMailRC@web80807.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <1350394471.26154.YahooMailRC@web80807.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <89fcbb8b289dc06d46ce902ca99d4784.squirrel@www.automate-it.com>

Tom -

What a great story - and congratulations on being the *original* owner of a
great classic. I'm not sure what you're implying here - I don't think you want
to sell the car, right? So it seems you either need help with some of the
work, or do you just want to pay a professional to get things fixed up?

You don't say where you are in Michigan, but a good start might be to get in
contact with the Detroit Triumph club - see
 http://www.detroittriumph.org/

You can also search for local/regional shops that specialize in restoration
work. A quick search for "british car restoration in michigan" turned up a
number of hits for me. This one in particular might be helpful:
  http://www.classicjunkyard.com/restorers/MI.html

Are you near Vestaburg, MI? A place called Lee's Car Care came up - one of the
reviews said "Lee did a restoration on my 1960 Triumph TR3A (British sports
car). He did a great job and his price was very reasonable."
Lee's Car Care
(989) 268-5160
2999 N Crystal Rd
Vestaburg, MI 48891

I hope this helps...

Lee (in Texas, but with a computer that speaks Michiganese...)



> I ordered and purchased the TR3A new while stationed with the USAF in England.
> It followed me through 24 years of military service and still does. It has
> come
> to need repairs that I am no longer able to accomplish and need assistance.
> Items needed are mostly because of being garaged for the last ten years; i.e.
> brakes, OD, clutch, transmission; wheels etc. Please inform of possible
> restoration possibilities. The vehicle is located in Michigan.
> Thanks much.
> Tom Geoghan

From mark at bradakis.com  Tue Oct 16 14:02:30 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2012 14:02:30 -0600
Subject: [TR] Interesting experience
In-Reply-To: <507D6AE7.1060202@gmail.com>
References: <507D6AE7.1060202@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <507DBD56.5060706@bradakis.com>

Back when I had running race cars I'd take one to the club's annual show.
Part of the registration packet were nice placards for info, and they 
included
Please don't touch in bold letters.  I'd toss that sign, had my own that 
said

Go ahead - climb in, waggle the wheel and make vroom vroom noises!

There are quite a few pictures around taken of kids of all ages doing
just that.  Oh, I would disconnect the battery so that flipping switches
and pushing buttons would do nothing.

mjb.

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Tue Oct 16 14:50:07 2012
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2012 16:50:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] Interesting experience
In-Reply-To: <507DBD56.5060706@bradakis.com>
References: <507D6AE7.1060202@gmail.com>,<507DBD56.5060706@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <BLU168-W107180E1367694534E13ACEBA700@phx.gbl>

A few years ago I took the race spitfire to the TRF Summer Party. They had the
car show downtown that year and there was my beater spitfire parked amongst
the beauties.  A woman with some youngsters was walking the line of cars, she
was a local and it looked like they were not rich. The one young man, maybe
4th grade ish had stopped and was giving the spitfire a once over. I walked
over and asked if he wanted to sit in it. By the look on his face that was the
last thing he expected to hear. Really, go ahead I told him as I opened the
door. He looked back at mom and she gave him the ok and in the drivers seat he
went. He looked like he just saw santa clause! I'm pretty sure he dreamed
about being a race car driver that night and it made my day also.

Marty


> Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2012 14:02:30 -0600
> From: mark at bradakis.com
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] Interesting experience
>
> Back when I had running race cars I'd take one to the club's annual show.
> Part of the registration packet were nice placards for info, and they
> included
> Please don't touch in bold letters. I'd toss that sign, had my own that
> said
>
> Go ahead - climb in, waggle the wheel and make vroom vroom noises!
>
> There are quite a few pictures around taken of kids of all ages doing
> just that. Oh, I would disconnect the battery so that flipping switches
> and pushing buttons would do nothing.
>
> mjb.

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Tue Oct 16 15:19:57 2012
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2012 14:19:57 -0700
Subject: [TR] Interesting experience
In-Reply-To: <507DBD56.5060706@bradakis.com>
References: <507D6AE7.1060202@gmail.com> <507DBD56.5060706@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bE4y0qz+c4LuH2O0X9ZFy7ZPKPhowivdX5Fd31n9VCBVg@mail.gmail.com>

On Tue, Oct 16, 2012 at 1:02 PM, Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com> wrote:

> Go ahead - climb in, waggle the wheel and make vroom vroom noises!
>


I usually tell them that the horn's been giving me trouble.. could
they test it?

TR Kids<http://s1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/TR%20Kids/?albumview=slideshow>

Geo

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Tue Oct 16 15:33:54 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2012 14:33:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Interesting experience
In-Reply-To: <BLU168-W107180E1367694534E13ACEBA700@phx.gbl>
References: <507D6AE7.1060202@gmail.com>,<507DBD56.5060706@bradakis.com>
	<BLU168-W107180E1367694534E13ACEBA700@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <1350423234.33486.YahooMailNeo@web120004.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

BFF and fellow Lister, who i will allow to identify himself, found that if you
let the high school homecoming girls (all 5 of them) sit in your TR3. at a hot
rod show.
you will indeed win their favorite car trophy.
 
but he also lets
every little kid who wants to,  sit in his very nice award winning TR3.
Frank
From: marty sukey <trmarty at hotmail.com>
To: mark at bradakis.com;
"triumphs at autox.team.net" <triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Tuesday, October
16, 2012 1:50 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Interesting experience

A few years ago I
took the race spitfire to the TRF Summer Party. They had the
car show downtown
that year and there was my beater spitfire parked amongst
the beauties.  A
woman with some youngsters was walking the line of cars, she
was a local and
it looked like they were not rich. The one young man, maybe
4th grade ish had
stopped and was giving the spitfire a once over. I walked
over and asked if he
wanted to sit in it. By the look on his face that was the
last thing he
expected to hear. Really, go ahead I told him as I opened the
door. He looked
back at mom and she gave him the ok and in the drivers seat he
went. He looked
like he just saw santa clause! I'm pretty sure he dreamed
about being a race
car driver that night and it made my day also.

Marty


> Date: Tue, 16 Oct
2012 14:02:30 -0600
> From: mark at bradakis.com
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
>
Subject: Re: [TR] Interesting experience
>
> Back when I had running race cars
I'd take one to the club's annual show.
> Part of the registration packet were
nice placards for info, and they
> included
> Please don't touch in bold
letters. I'd toss that sign, had my own that
> said
>
> Go ahead - climb in,
waggle the wheel and make vroom vroom noises!
>
> There are quite a few
pictures around taken of kids of all ages doing
> just that. Oh, I would
disconnect the battery so that flipping switches
> and pushing buttons would
do nothing.
>
> mjb.

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Tue Oct 16 18:38:18 2012
From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer)
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2012 17:38:18 -0700
Subject: [TR] looking for a TR4/4a/250 right front fender
Message-ID: <009801cdabff$b456ccd0$1d046670$@net>

Some friends in the Triumph Travelers Sports Car Club are planning to
champion a TR4 in the 24 Hours of Lemons racing circuit. They found a car in
a field somewhere but the right front fender is rather badly twisted in the
front. They are looking for a replacement in almost any condition as long as
the front corner is salvageable.  

 

Race rules prevent them from spending any more than $500 net on the car, so
price needs to be low. They can however trade parts if there is something
you might need. As shipping is also an issue, somewhere in the vicinity of
San Francisco would be ideal. If you can help out, let me know off list. 

 

Thanks,

Bob

From dave at ranteer.com  Wed Oct 17 05:24:13 2012
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2012 06:24:13 -0500
Subject: [TR] advice needed
Message-ID: <616688CA74FD4347AA591017BEEBFE39@Spitfire>

car is a 75 spitfire, but the spit list isnbt nearly as helpful, plus the
technology is similar, so indulge me please

when I got the car the fuel pump was not working; bought a cheapie off of ebay
and car ran fine for months.  no issues.

car ran fine a few weeks ago; I donbt run this car every day, but I do try
to drive it every other week or so.  its probably been a month since I ran
it.

car would not start

shots of starter fluid caused it to crank up then die, so clearly itbs a
fuel delivery problem

there is a fuel filter in the rear (trunk) and one in the engine compartment
in front of the standard fuel pump.

added an electric fuel pump in the engine compartment with no luck.  I canbt
remember if it was before or after the fuel filter, but it was before the
mechanical fuel pump.

bypassed the fuel filter and mechanical pump with the electric and car ran.

added the fuel filter to the mix; realized I had it in backwards in that fuel
was coming out of the connection, turned it around, and the car ran.

removed the electric fuel pump, put the system back together, and it ran.
drove the car for about 15 minutes and it ran just fine.

is it possible I had the fuel filter in backwards and it ran for a few months
then finally stopped?

is it possible that since this is a suction system, not a gravity flow like a
tr that since I had not driven the car in a month that the mechanical pump did
not have the oomph to pull the gas and didnbt work until I had bprimedb
the system?

now Ibm concerned about driving that car; Ibm afraid its going to just
die.  I guess I should keep that electric pump in the car.  should I replace
the fuel filter?  fuel pump?  the car? (just kidding)

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Oct 17 05:59:19 2012
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2012 07:59:19 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] advice needed
Message-ID: <39915.1fbefcc5.3daff797@cs.com>

It's not uncommon for the float valves in the carburetors to stick closed.  
Give them a wrap with the plastic handle of a screwdriver and see if that 
helps.  If you do this with the electric fuel pump running you will hear a 
slight change in the pitch and you will probably hear the fuel flowing into 
the carb float bowl.

Dave

In a message dated 10/17/2012 6:24:29 AM Central Daylight Time, 
dave at ranteer.com writes: 
> car is a 75 spitfire, but the spit list isnbt nearly as helpful, plus 
> the
> technology is similar, so indulge me please
> 
> when I got the car the fuel pump was not working; bought a cheapie off of 
> ebay
> and car ran fine for months.  no issues.
> 
> car ran fine a few weeks ago; I donbt run this car every day, but I do 
> try
> to drive it every other week or so.  its probably been a month since I ran
> it.
> 
> car would not start
> 
> shots of starter fluid caused it to crank up then die, so clearly itbs a
> fuel delivery problem

From ghaynestr4 at aol.com  Wed Oct 17 08:03:38 2012
From: ghaynestr4 at aol.com (George Haynes)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2012 10:03:38 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Brake & Clutch Pedal Bushings
Message-ID: <8CF7A87570516CA-ED8-87E7@webmail-d137.sysops.aol.com>

While investigating a friend's (1970) TR6 heavy clutch pedal operation, we
found quite a bit of side play in the pedal pivots.  After removing the pedal
box from the car and disassembling, we found no bushings in the brake and
clutch pedal pivots.  No trace of busings ever being there, either.
Moss shows bushings (330-285) at each end of the pivot tubes, apparently for
all TR6's.  Has anyone else found these bushings missing?  Do other cars
exhibit the sloppy pedal symptoms?  We're baffled but will install the
bushings to improve pedal operation.
George

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Wed Oct 17 08:17:48 2012
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2012 10:17:48 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR4 Amber Tail Light Lenses
Message-ID: <511aa.2a8f46c2.3db0180c@aol.com>

List,
 
I'd like to replace my red tail light signal lenses on my  TR4 with the UK 
amber lenses......does anyone know of a source for two amber  lenses?  I've 
tried the UK and USA Ebay sites and the major suppliers - no  luck.....I 
guess I'm looking for the right person who has a pair of these  stashed in 
their attic somewhere:)
 
Thanks,
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA 
1962 TR4  CT2052L

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Wed Oct 17 08:35:44 2012
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2012 10:35:44 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 Amber Tail Light Lenses
In-Reply-To: <511aa.2a8f46c2.3db0180c@aol.com>
References: <511aa.2a8f46c2.3db0180c@aol.com>
Message-ID: <507EC240.7040909@adelphia.net>

Chip,

These lenses were also standard on the TR250. So if you need to, try 
expanding your search. I was able to secure a set years ago when I 
restored my 63. I also added amber lenses to replace the clear glass 
lenses on the front grill. All lenses were found on Ebay US. I do have 
one spare lens for the rear but the reflector pattern is different than 
the ones installed so it is sitting on the shelf. It is a NOS Lucas by 
the way.


Bob

On 10/17/2012 10:17 AM, Chip19474 at aol.com wrote:
> List,
>   
> I'd like to replace my red tail light signal lenses on my  TR4 with the UK
> amber lenses......does anyone know of a source for two amber  lenses?  I've
> tried the UK and USA Ebay sites and the major suppliers - no  luck.....I
> guess I'm looking for the right person who has a pair of these  stashed in
> their attic somewhere:)
>   
> Thanks,
>   
> Chip Krout
> Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
> Skippack, PA
> 1962 TR4  CT2052L
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr at adelphia.net

From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk  Wed Oct 17 09:37:10 2012
From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2012 16:37:10 +0100 (BST)
Subject: [TR] TR4 Amber Tail Light Lenses
In-Reply-To: <511aa.2a8f46c2.3db0180c@aol.com>
References: <511aa.2a8f46c2.3db0180c@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1350488230.89925.YahooMailNeo@web29403.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

Rimmers have stock of the amber lens p/n 516040 at GBP 12.29 sales tax free
price. Roughly equals US$19 each - plus p&p. If you want to be 'up-market'
this same lamp unit and lens appeared on Aston Martins up to the DB5 and there
are still plenty of those around. However, an Aston parts supplier probably
charges squillions times the price :)

Jonmac
http://standard-triumph-books.co.uk


>________________________________
>
From: "Chip19474 at aol.com" <Chip19474 at aol.com>
>To: triumphs at autox.team.net
>Sent: Wednesday, 17 October 2012, 15:17
>Subject: [TR] TR4 Amber Tail Light
Lenses
>  
>List,
>
>I'd like to replace my red tail light signal lenses on
my  TR4 with the UK 
>amber lenses......does anyone know of a source for two
amber  lenses?  I've 
>tried the UK and USA Ebay sites and the major suppliers
- no  luck.....I 
>guess I'm looking for the right person who has a pair of
these  stashed in 
>their attic somewhere:)
>
>Thanks,
>
>Chip Krout
>Delaware
Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
>Skippack, PA 
>1962 TR4  CT2052L
>
>**
triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk

From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk  Wed Oct 17 09:52:06 2012
From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2012 16:52:06 +0100 (BST)
Subject: [TR] TR4 Amber Tail Light Lenses
In-Reply-To: <507EC240.7040909@adelphia.net>
References: <511aa.2a8f46c2.3db0180c@aol.com> <507EC240.7040909@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <1350489126.54993.YahooMailNeo@web29406.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

Re my post about these lenses from Rimmers. I note they charge about four
pounds more ($6) for the North American all red lens ! NFI as I have no
association with any parts organisation. They've all done "very nicely thank
you" out of me in days gone by :)

Jonmac
http://standard-triumph-books.co.uk


>________________________________
>
From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr at adelphia.net>
>To: Chip19474 at aol.com 
>Cc:
triumphs at autox.team.net 
>Sent: Wednesday, 17 October 2012, 15:35
>Subject:
Re: [TR] TR4 Amber Tail Light Lenses
>  
>Chip,
>
>These lenses were also
standard on the TR250. So if you need to, try expanding your search. I was
able to secure a set years ago when I restored my 63. I also added amber
lenses to replace the clear glass lenses on the front grill. All lenses were
found on Ebay US. I do have one spare lens for the rear but the reflector
pattern is different than the ones installed so it is sitting on the shelf. It
is a NOS Lucas by the way.
>
>
>Bob
>
>On 10/17/2012 10:17 AM,
Chip19474 at aol.com wrote:
>> List,
>>   I'd like to replace my red tail light
signal lenses on my  TR4 with the UK
>> amber lenses......does anyone know of
a source for two amber  lenses?  I've
>> tried the UK and USA Ebay sites and
the major suppliers - no  luck.....I
>> guess I'm looking for the right person
who has a pair of these  stashed in
>> their attic somewhere:)
>>   Thanks,
>>   Chip Krout
>> Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
>> Skippack, PA
>> 1962 TR4 
CT2052L
>> 
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>> Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr at adelphia.net
>
>**
triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk

From Ron.Landis at kentcountymi.gov  Wed Oct 17 10:17:56 2012
From: Ron.Landis at kentcountymi.gov (Landis,Ronald)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2012 16:17:56 +0000
Subject: [TR] Interesting experience
Message-ID: <D4088CDE56B2F246870EA0D47E517AA8138F89CB@BL2PRD0811MB423.namprd08.prod.outlook.com>

A few weeks ago I left my TR250 parked while we walked around downtown.  As I
was approaching the car from the rear I noticed there was a blonde in my car,
I did not leave her there.  I stood next to the car and she looked up and said
"Tell me this isn't your car"  I said it was and she was embarrassed, however
her boyfriend, who was taking a face book picture, just wanted to see the
engine.  It was fun.

Two nights later a very well dressed man and woman pulled up next to me and
said "nice ride".  I said thanks.  As they drove away I saw that his car was a
2012 Maserati.

Its fun to drive a TR

Ron

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Wed Oct 17 10:40:51 2012
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2012 09:40:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Draft Excluder & Rear View Mirrors
Message-ID: <1350492051.63669.YahooMailNeo@web180902.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

     I like the draft excluder on the driver's door in one of the last pics.
There is an amazing array of of side mounted rear view mirrors in the pics.
One has it on the aero screens. Another is mounted under the upper dash cap.
One is mounted to the side of the upper windshield stanchion (i would like to
know where the mirror came from). Another has it on the plexiglass draft
excluder. Triumph guys are inventive.

     I mounted my rear view mirror on
one of the windshield stanchion mounting bolts. I've never seen it done like
yours.

     Bill in Tehachapi



Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2012 14:19:57 -0700
From:
Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com>
To: Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com>
Cc:
Triumph List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Interesting
experience
Message-ID:
   
<CANzE1bE4y0qz+c4LuH2O0X9ZFy7ZPKPhowivdX5Fd31n9VCBVg at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

On Tue, Oct 16, 2012 at 1:02 PM,
Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com> wrote:

> Go ahead - climb in, waggle the
wheel and make vroom vroom noises!
>


I usually tell them that the horn's
been giving me trouble.. could
they test it?

TR
Kids<http://s1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/TR%20Kids/?albumvie
w=slideshow>

Geo

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Oct 17 10:54:01 2012
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2012 12:54:01 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR4 Amber Tail Light Lenses
Message-ID: <56594.95fccdd.3db03ca8@cs.com>

Yes, but then you could say:
"Those taillight lenses are from a Martin, Aston Martin."

Dave

In a message dated 10/17/2012 10:37:20 AM Central Daylight Time, 
flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk writes: 
> Rimmers have stock of the amber lens p/n 516040 at GBP 12.29 sales tax 
> free
> price. Roughly equals US$19 each - plus p&p. If you want to be 'up-market'
> this same lamp unit and lens appeared on Aston Martins up to the DB5 and 
> there
> are still plenty of those around. However, an Aston parts supplier 
> probably
> charges squillions times the price :)

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Wed Oct 17 11:03:02 2012
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2012 10:03:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] Draft Excluder & Rear View Mirrors
In-Reply-To: <1350492051.63669.YahooMailNeo@web180902.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1350492051.63669.YahooMailNeo@web180902.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bFMjdFfuE5xeYPpgeSDZ-D=7Waha=-9OCYQJwT-+OcgZw@mail.gmail.com>

On Wed, Oct 17, 2012 at 9:40 AM, William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a at att.net> wrote:

> ... One [mirror] is mounted to the side of the upper windshield stanchion
> (i would like to know where the mirror came from)...
>


Moss has them, though they no longer list them as a Triumph part.

Quarterlight Mirror<http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/products/PDF/165-175.pdf>

p/n 165-175<http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/SearchResults.aspx?SearchText=165-175&WebCatalogID=0>

Geo

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Wed Oct 17 11:04:05 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2012 10:04:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Interesting experience
In-Reply-To: <D4088CDE56B2F246870EA0D47E517AA8138F89CB@BL2PRD0811MB423.namprd08.prod.outlook.com>
References: <D4088CDE56B2F246870EA0D47E517AA8138F89CB@BL2PRD0811MB423.namprd08.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <1350493445.84610.YahooMailNeo@web120002.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

you are far more forgiving than me Ron.
id find that blond presumptuous and
out of line, and would have told her so.
my friends and i like to visit
Temecula's wineries in our cars. the crowd always wants to look at and
discuss the cars. all TR3's.
i have found it best to watch out for the drunks
and allow them to sit in the car with me present. not knowing how to open a
the door on the TR3's i have caught them attempting to step over the door to
gain entry mainly for photo op's.
best be supervised than left alone.
i also
hate them wanting to lie on the bonnet, no matter how pretty they are.
Frank
From: "Landis,Ronald" <Ron.Landis at kentcountymi.gov>
To:
"triumphs at autox.team.net" <triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Wednesday, October
17, 2012 9:17 AM
Subject: [TR] Interesting experience

A few weeks ago I left
my TR250 parked while we walked around downtown.  As I
was approaching the car
from the rear I noticed there was a blonde in my car,
I did not leave her
there.  I stood next to the car and she looked up and said
"Tell me this isn't
your car"  I said it was and she was embarrassed, however
her boyfriend, who
was taking a face book picture, just wanted to see the
engine.  It was fun.
Two nights later a very well dressed man and woman pulled up next to me and
said "nice ride".  I said thanks.  As they drove away I saw that his car was a
2012 Maserati.

Its fun to drive a TR

Ron

** triumphs at autox.team.net **
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Wed Oct 17 11:06:37 2012
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2012 10:06:37 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 Amber Tail Light Lenses
In-Reply-To: <56594.95fccdd.3db03ca8@cs.com>
References: <56594.95fccdd.3db03ca8@cs.com>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bE2gGNU=YM745Rw1i2DjakjQ23dE84Cd98XD7bL07VZXg@mail.gmail.com>

On Wed, Oct 17, 2012 at 9:54 AM, <Dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:

> Yes, but then you could say:
> "Those taillight lenses are from a Martin, Aston Martin."
>


I like that.  I should tell people my TR3 heater rheostat is from 'Royce,
Rolls Royce'.

The rheostat was new in box for 10 bucks as it was only listed as a R/R
part.  I don't think Rolls owners spend much time trolling for parts on
ebay.

Geo

From arakelianp at mossmotors.com  Wed Oct 17 10:57:39 2012
From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Pete Arakelian)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2012 09:57:39 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 Amber Tail Light Lenses
Message-ID: <4D4FABA15328FC42B1AA0DEE4673548C86FD65087C@DR-EX-04.datacenter.dataresolution.net>

I don't like to get commercial on this, but Moss does carry this lens under
part number 560-295 for $16.95 each.

Just an F.Y.I...

Peter

From pethier at comcast.net  Wed Oct 17 11:30:37 2012
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2012 17:30:37 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Interesting experience
In-Reply-To: <CANzE1bE4y0qz+c4LuH2O0X9ZFy7ZPKPhowivdX5Fd31n9VCBVg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <419079488.404884.1350495037859.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

What a colletion of cute-kid shots!

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier at comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

----- Original Message -----
> From: "Geo Hahn" <ahwahneetr at gmail.com>
> To: "Mark J Bradakis" <mark at bradakis.com>
> Cc: "Triumph List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2012 4:19:57 PM
> Subject: Re: [TR] Interesting experience
> On Tue, Oct 16, 2012 at 1:02 PM, Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com>
> wrote:
> 
> > Go ahead - climb in, waggle the wheel and make vroom vroom noises!
> >
> 
> 
> I usually tell them that the horn's been giving me trouble.. could
> they test it?
> 
> TR
> Kids<http://s1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/TR%20Kids/?albumview=slideshow>
> 
> Geo
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net

From pethier at comcast.net  Wed Oct 17 11:33:07 2012
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2012 17:33:07 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Interesting experience
In-Reply-To: <507DBD56.5060706@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <799201993.405008.1350495187195.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

There is one guy who brings his early-30s Ford roadster to the Back To The Fifties Weekend (nice little 12,000-car show in Saint Paul) with the sign "Touch this car.  Stand on the running boards."  Makes my day every time.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier at comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mark J Bradakis" <mark at bradakis.com>
> To: "Triumph List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2012 3:02:30 PM
> Subject: Re: [TR] Interesting experience
> Back when I had running race cars I'd take one to the club's annual
> show.
> Part of the registration packet were nice placards for info, and they
> included
> Please don't touch in bold letters. I'd toss that sign, had my own
> that
> said
> 
> Go ahead - climb in, waggle the wheel and make vroom vroom noises!
> 
> There are quite a few pictures around taken of kids of all ages doing
> just that. Oh, I would disconnect the battery so that flipping
> switches
> and pushing buttons would do nothing.
> 
> mjb.
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net

From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com  Wed Oct 17 12:48:51 2012
From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (Brian Induni)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2012 11:48:51 -0700
Subject: [TR] Interesting experience
Message-ID: <003c01cdac98$0d2afd20$2780f760$@roadrunner.com>

TeriAnn, do you think you could/would ever be able to find the girl again?
If you ran in to the family at the local grocery store, I bet it wouldn't be
too difficult to make contact. The reason I ask is; if this 14 year old had
THAT much interest as admitted to by her family, I suggest we as a group
could find, purchase, and deliver a TR3 project to her. We all need to start
taking action to help keep this dying hobby alive and show the younger
generation how important collaboration and group resources are. There must
be at least 100 of us on this list - if we each chipped in $100, I bet $10k
would find a great project AND get it delivered to her AND provide some
getting start cash for parts, tools, etc. Call me crazy in these tough
times, but I'd forgo getting the new windscreen for my MGB to chip in the
cash. How about it? 

Here's a great candidate
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1961-Triumph-TR-Project-/230864568925?pt=US_C
ars_Trucks&hash=item35c099c25d

I coach the local High School FIRST Robotics team, and I can attest to the
great things kids can do and dreams you can inspire with just a little
generosity and guidance.

Brian

------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2012 07:10:47 -0700
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman at gmail.com>
To: Triumph List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Interesting experience
Message-ID: <507D6AE7.1060202 at gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

I had an interesting experience yesterday in the grocery store parking 
lot.  A family was standing around looking at my TR3 when I came out of 
the grocery store. Of course as I approached I asked if there were any 
questions about the car I could answer.

As it turns out the 14 year old daughter has her heart set on having a 
TR3 when she gets older. According to her parents and older brother she 
has been researching cars for a couple of years looking for a cute 
roadster/convertible that wassimple enough for her to learn to work on.  
She is hoping to find a tired driver that she could restore herself.  So 
of course the family had a lot of questions and I let her sit inside one 
for the very first time so she could get a feel for the interior. She 
got her picture taken behind the wheeland I think became even more 
determined to become a future TR3 owner.

Unfortunately they suddenly decided that they needed tobe off before 
frozen food thawed and I did not get their contact informationbefore 
they drove off.  But it was nice to see that I wasn't the only girl 
smitten by a TR3 and was willing to take restoring one on.

TeriAnn

From mark at bradakis.com  Wed Oct 17 13:13:49 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2012 13:13:49 -0600
Subject: [TR] Interesting experience
In-Reply-To: <003c01cdac98$0d2afd20$2780f760$@roadrunner.com>
References: <003c01cdac98$0d2afd20$2780f760$@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <507F036D.8090104@bradakis.com>

Brian Induni wrote:
> TeriAnn, do you think you could/would ever be able to find the girl again?
> If you ran in to the family at the local grocery store, I bet it wouldn't be
> too difficult to make contact. The reason I ask is; if this 14 year old had
> THAT much interest as admitted to by her family, I suggest we as a group
> could find, purchase, and deliver a TR3 project to her.
That would be cool!

Oddly enough just a minute before I read this a $100 contribution was sent
via Paypal to donations at autox.team.net.  I don't know exactly who it was 
that
sent it or what list he is on.  Just a coincidence, I guess.

mjb.

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Wed Oct 17 13:36:04 2012
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2012 15:36:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] Interesting experience
In-Reply-To: <003c01cdac98$0d2afd20$2780f760$@roadrunner.com>
References: <003c01cdac98$0d2afd20$2780f760$@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAAAokWe7nBZPoA+vt51ClezCgAAAEAAAANnRa6t6wg5BtKsy0zRXdTABAAAAAA==@verizon.net>

Unless dad is into doing a lot of work - I think there are better candidates
out there.  And not necessarily on eBay.  
Jm2cw
C


1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 
Still being restored - but 2012 looks like the year..


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brian Induni
Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2012 2:49 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Interesting experience

TeriAnn, do you think you could/would ever be able to find the girl again?
If you ran in to the family at the local grocery store, I bet it wouldn't be
too difficult to make contact. The reason I ask is; if this 14 year old had
THAT much interest as admitted to by her family, I suggest we as a group
could find, purchase, and deliver a TR3 project to her. We all need to start
taking action to help keep this dying hobby alive and show the younger
generation how important collaboration and group resources are. There must
be at least 100 of us on this list - if we each chipped in $100, I bet $10k
would find a great project AND get it delivered to her AND provide some
getting start cash for parts, tools, etc. Call me crazy in these tough
times, but I'd forgo getting the new windscreen for my MGB to chip in the
cash. How about it? 

Here's a great candidate
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1961-Triumph-TR-Project-/230864568925?pt=US_C
ars_Trucks&hash=item35c099c25d

I coach the local High School FIRST Robotics team, and I can attest to the
great things kids can do and dreams you can inspire with just a little
generosity and guidance.

Brian

------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2012 07:10:47 -0700
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman at gmail.com>
To: Triumph List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Interesting experience
Message-ID: <507D6AE7.1060202 at gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

I had an interesting experience yesterday in the grocery store parking lot.
A family was standing around looking at my TR3 when I came out of the
grocery store. Of course as I approached I asked if there were any questions
about the car I could answer.

As it turns out the 14 year old daughter has her heart set on having a
TR3 when she gets older. According to her parents and older brother she has
been researching cars for a couple of years looking for a cute
roadster/convertible that wassimple enough for her to learn to work on.  
She is hoping to find a tired driver that she could restore herself.  So of
course the family had a lot of questions and I let her sit inside one for
the very first time so she could get a feel for the interior. She got her
picture taken behind the wheeland I think became even more determined to
become a future TR3 owner.

Unfortunately they suddenly decided that they needed tobe off before frozen
food thawed and I did not get their contact informationbefore they drove
off.  But it was nice to see that I wasn't the only girl smitten by a TR3
and was willing to take restoring one on.

TeriAnn

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net

From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk  Wed Oct 17 14:47:13 2012
From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2012 21:47:13 +0100 (BST)
Subject: [TR] Interesting experience
In-Reply-To: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAAAokWe7nBZPoA+vt51ClezCgAAAEAAAANnRa6t6wg5BtKsy0zRXdTABAAAAAA==@verizon.net>
References: <003c01cdac98$0d2afd20$2780f760$@roadrunner.com>
	<!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAAAokWe7nBZPoA+vt51ClezCgAAAEAAAANnRa6t6wg5BtKsy0zRXdTABAAAAAA==@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <1350506833.39247.YahooMailNeo@web29405.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

I recently watched a film on UK TV about a young lady, fresh out of high
school at 16 with few qualifications to her name. She'd got a love affair with
Bug Eye Sprites (yes, I know its the wrong list) but what she did was
a_mazing. 
She aspired to run her own Hairdressing Salon and this meant two
days a week at school learning about hair and make-up etc etc and four working
as a trainee. She saved her pennies and bought a real basket case of a 1960
Sprite. Dad said that if she was that determined he'd help her if she asked
him - but she didn't. 
So she went to night school to learn how to cut steel
sheet and weld. Then she did a course in mechanics, followed by another course
in painting and she read every book she could find in the local library about
car restoration and the mysteries of Lucas. Bless her, five years later she'd
finished that Sprite. It was drop dead gorgeous (though she was prettier) and
on its first outing to a classic car show, she won Car of the Day.
As a result
of all that determination, she then won sponsorship from an Enterprise Forum
and opened her own Salon and, apart from still using her Sprite, now has two
more Salons on the go. Pretty good going for someone under 25 who made up her
mind she was going to do it all herself and especially someone who isn't
afraid of hard work!

Jonmac   
________________________________

From tr3a58 at verizon.net  Wed Oct 17 15:38:35 2012
From: tr3a58 at verizon.net (Dean Tetterton)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2012 16:38:35 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] Brake & Clutch Pedal Bushings
Message-ID: <23455491.250653.1350509915417.JavaMail.root@vznit170136>

This is common to most pedal assy. They are soft
bushings and disappear quickly. Does make the pedals work
better. 
 
Dean
 


On 10/17/12, George Haynes wrote:

While investigating a friend's (1970) TR6 heavy clutch pedal operation, we
found quite a bit of side play in the pedal pivots. After removing the pedal
box from the car and disassembling, we found no bushings in the brake and
clutch pedal pivots. No trace of busings ever being there, either.
Moss shows bushings (330-285) at each end of the pivot tubes, apparently for
all TR6's. Has anyone else found these bushings missing? Do other cars
exhibit the sloppy pedal symptoms? We're baffled but will install the
bushings to improve pedal operation.
George

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3a58 at verizon.net

From fishplate at charter.net  Wed Oct 17 15:40:16 2012
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2012 17:40:16 -0400
Subject: [TR] advice needed
In-Reply-To: <616688CA74FD4347AA591017BEEBFE39@Spitfire>
References: <616688CA74FD4347AA591017BEEBFE39@Spitfire>
Message-ID: <507F25C0.3020200@charter.net>

On 10/17/2012 7:24 AM, Dave wrote:
> is it possible I had the fuel filter in backwards and it ran for a few months
> then finally stopped?

Are you saying you took the filter that was in there for several months 
and turned it around, and you're now running the fuel through it the 
other way?

That's not a good idea.

I suppose it could have been clogged - when you swapped it round you 
cleared the clog by washing it downstream to your carburetters.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

From guy at genfiniti.com  Wed Oct 17 15:58:14 2012
From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2012 16:58:14 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Boot Top Snaps
Message-ID: <83511B44-A7EB-43C3-B293-F929C0F22B9D@genfiniti.com>

All,

I just got a brand new boot top for the TR4A.
Installing the lift-the-dot females (7) and snaps(6) along the back edge was a
breeze, and the car looks good with its new clothes.

However, I still need to add the snaps to the interior, for the boot top to
secure to.
It looks as if I need a snap on each B-post, as well as two snaps on the
extreme ends of the rear deck (at the top of the vertical wall coming from the
floor boards).

Does anyone have any guidance or photos of how the boot top snaps into the
interior?

As always, I appreciate all help, and am loving driving the car after eight
years of restoration work.



Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Wed Oct 17 19:07:58 2012
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2012 20:07:58 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 Amber Tail Light Lenses
In-Reply-To: <56594.95fccdd.3db03ca8@cs.com>
References: <56594.95fccdd.3db03ca8@cs.com>
Message-ID: <SNT123-W2613132B3AB1BEC5B7A55BE1760@phx.gbl>

The name is Bond, James   oh never mind...

Rich White Central, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF###L
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!



> From: Dave1massey at cs.com
> Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2012 12:54:01 -0400
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Amber Tail Light Lenses
>
> Yes, but then you could say:
> "Those taillight lenses are from a Martin, Aston Martin."
>
> Dave
>
> In a message dated 10/17/2012 10:37:20 AM Central Daylight Time,
> flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk writes:
> > Rimmers have stock of the amber lens p/n 516040 at GBP 12.29 sales tax
> > free
> > price. Roughly equals US$19 each - plus p&p. If you want to be
'up-market'
> > this same lamp unit and lens appeared on Aston Martins up to the DB5 and
> > there
> > are still plenty of those around. However, an Aston parts supplier
> > probably
> > charges squillions times the price :)
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Wed Oct 17 21:32:20 2012
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2012 22:32:20 -0500
Subject: [TR] Interesting experience
In-Reply-To: <799201993.405008.1350495187195.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <799201993.405008.1350495187195.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4C2CF0F01ED645389D9180BA9111B009@GregPC>

I have a co-worker who is active in the club for a certain fiberglass 
bodied, v-8 engined american sports car that will remain nameless.  I have 
gone to some if his club's shows, I swear not only do many of them have 
their own, personally made "do not touch"  signs but some have such inviting 
additions as "owner has been known to eat small children" and other such 
inviting things.  I find this discussion and the examples cited very 
refreshing.

Greg Lemon 

From mark at bradakis.com  Wed Oct 17 21:39:17 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2012 21:39:17 -0600
Subject: [TR] Interesting experience
In-Reply-To: <4C2CF0F01ED645389D9180BA9111B009@GregPC>
References: <799201993.405008.1350495187195.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<4C2CF0F01ED645389D9180BA9111B009@GregPC>
Message-ID: <507F79E5.10401@bradakis.com>

Greg Lemon wrote:
> I have a co-worker who is active in the club for a certain fiberglass 
> bodied, v-8 engined american sports car

Bricklin?

mjb.

From pethier at comcast.net  Wed Oct 17 22:02:51 2012
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2012 04:02:51 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Interesting experience
In-Reply-To: <1350506833.39247.YahooMailNeo@web29405.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <705067069.430908.1350532971063.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

A number of bygone British phrases come to mind, but I am cautioned by Lotusphile Mike Causer that I sound like Bertie Wooster.

Oh, what the hell...

Jolly good show!

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier at comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Macartney" <flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2012 3:47:13 PM
> Subject: Re: [TR] Interesting experience
> I recently watched a film on UK TV about a young lady, fresh out of
> high
> school at 16 with few qualifications to her name. She'd got a love
> affair with
> Bug Eye Sprites (yes, I know its the wrong list) but what she did was
> a_mazing.
> She aspired to run her own Hairdressing Salon and this meant two
> days a week at school learning about hair and make-up etc etc and four
> working
> as a trainee. She saved her pennies and bought a real basket case of a
> 1960
> Sprite. Dad said that if she was that determined he'd help her if she
> asked
> him - but she didn't.
> So she went to night school to learn how to cut steel
> sheet and weld. Then she did a course in mechanics, followed by
> another course
> in painting and she read every book she could find in the local
> library about
> car restoration and the mysteries of Lucas. Bless her, five years
> later she'd
> finished that Sprite. It was drop dead gorgeous (though she was
> prettier) and
> on its first outing to a classic car show, she won Car of the Day.
> As a result
> of all that determination, she then won sponsorship from an Enterprise
> Forum
> and opened her own Salon and, apart from still using her Sprite, now
> has two
> more Salons on the go. Pretty good going for someone under 25 who made
> up her
> mind she was going to do it all herself and especially someone who
> isn't
> afraid of hard work!
> 
> Jonmac
> ________________________________
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Oct 18 05:27:03 2012
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2012 07:27:03 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR4 Amber Tail Light Lenses
Message-ID: <3d3eb.26b53e0.3db14187@cs.com>

Some years ago there was a comedian on TV talking about James Bond.  He 
thought that would be a good pickup line but the gal responded "Lost, Get 
Lost."

Dave

In a message dated 10/17/2012 8:07:59 PM Central Daylight Time, 
rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com writes: 
> The name is Bond, James   oh never mind...

From wbeech at flash.net  Thu Oct 18 08:01:18 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2012 09:01:18 -0500
Subject: [TR] On This Day in History
Message-ID: <18465106878F4EBF87782A7C5415AA88@bboffice>

TR3B - TCF2549L was produced.  Happy Birthday Aunt "B"!
 
BMIHT Cert says she shipped on Oct 31st, I often wonder if this was the
final shipping date for all TR3Bs.
 
Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566 <http://www.triumphowners.com/1566> 
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow"
M.Andretti

From wbeech at flash.net  Thu Oct 18 08:12:01 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2012 09:12:01 -0500
Subject: [TR] VTR 2012 Travel Kit
Message-ID: <F0B1C59CFA754FEBBB3F07358BC90844@bboffice>

Rounding up things for the drive to Galveston, hoping I don't need them, and
wondering if I have missed anything.

Points
Plugs
Condenser
Gallon of coolant
Quart of oil, maybe two.
AC Fuel pump(considering buying an electric pump and returning it if I don't
use it)
Check the spare, 40lbs

I'm sure I have missed some things, what are the lists recommendations?

Also, anybody coming through NW Texas on a route that will take you through
Abilene?  Contact me off-line and maybe we can have an LBC convoy.

I've got my Team.Net badge on the car, looking forward to putting a face
with some of the great people on this list.

All the best,
Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow"
M.Andretti

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Thu Oct 18 08:34:01 2012
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2012 07:34:01 -0700
Subject: [TR] VTR 2012 Travel Kit
In-Reply-To: <F0B1C59CFA754FEBBB3F07358BC90844@bboffice>
References: <F0B1C59CFA754FEBBB3F07358BC90844@bboffice>
Message-ID: <50801359.707@gmail.com>

On 10/18/12 7:12 AM, Wbeech wrote:
> Rounding up things for the drive to Galveston, hoping I don't need them, and
> wondering if I have missed anything.
>
> Points
> Plugs
> Condenser
Cap & rotor.
> Gallon of coolant
> Quart of oil, maybe two.
> AC Fuel pump(considering buying an electric pump and returning it if I don't
> use it)
A fuel pump rebuild kit takes up less space

On long trips I also carry a spare fan belt and a spare set of hoses.

Walk yourself through the replacement of every part you carry a spare 
for and make sure you take the tools needed for each swap. The right 
screwdriver and a feeler gauge would come in handy if you need to 
replace the points.

A roadside assistance card with long distance towing doesn't hurt. A 
couple years ago on a 1000 mile plus each way trip I lost an alternator 
in the TR.  The electric fan took the battery down fairly quickly & the 
free towing got me into a shop that could rebuild the alternator and get 
me going again.

Have a good trip & VTR.

I'm trying to remember what a team.net badge looks like.  All I 
currently have on mine is the FOT badge and as near as I can tell it was 
the only one at Triumphest.

TeriAnn

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Thu Oct 18 08:43:50 2012
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2012 10:43:50 -0400
Subject: [TR] VTR 2012 Travel Kit
In-Reply-To: <F0B1C59CFA754FEBBB3F07358BC90844@bboffice>
References: <F0B1C59CFA754FEBBB3F07358BC90844@bboffice>
Message-ID: <508015A6.9050309@adelphia.net>

Bill,

Be sure to bring a fresh fan belt and the wrenches to change. Also 
screwdrivers etc. to change points.  Since I have electric fuel pumps on 
all my TRs, I have a spare wired and ready to go. And who would be 
without a roll of duct tape? Can help in a pinch with hoses to get you 
to the next FLAPS. The bag goes with the car regardless of the length of 
the trip.

Bob

On 10/18/2012 10:12 AM, Wbeech wrote:
> Rounding up things for the drive to Galveston, hoping I don't need them, and
> wondering if I have missed anything.
>
> Points
> Plugs
> Condenser
> Gallon of coolant
> Quart of oil, maybe two.
> AC Fuel pump(considering buying an electric pump and returning it if I don't
> use it)
> Check the spare, 40lbs
>
> I'm sure I have missed some things, what are the lists recommendations?
>
> Also, anybody coming through NW Texas on a route that will take you through
> Abilene?  Contact me off-line and maybe we can have an LBC convoy.
>
> I've got my Team.Net badge on the car, looking forward to putting a face
> with some of the great people on this list.
>
> All the best,
> Bill
>
> Bill Beecher
> '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
> '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
> www.triumphowners.com/1566
> '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
> "If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow"
> M.Andretti
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr at adelphia.net

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Oct 18 08:56:21 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2012 07:56:21 -0700
Subject: [TR] VTR 2012 Travel Kit
In-Reply-To: <F0B1C59CFA754FEBBB3F07358BC90844@bboffice>
References: <F0B1C59CFA754FEBBB3F07358BC90844@bboffice>
Message-ID: <017f01cdad40$bca38e40$0601a8c0@randall>

Rotor, belt, hoses, duct tape, AAA card, cell phone, charger.  Enough tools
to install the parts you are carrying.
DMM, clip leads.

> AC Fuel pump(considering buying an electric pump and 
> returning it if I don't
> use it)

Why not just pick up a cheap one & keep it?  Changing the stock pump on the
side of the road isn't something I want to tackle.  I scored a Facet-clone
on flea-bay for under $30 (or new ones are under $50 @ Aircraft Spruce) and
keep it stashed in the center of the spare tire along with some tubing.
Make sure you get the right pressure though, our carbs take a lot less than
your average American carb does.

-- Randall  

From aljlthomson at charter.net  Thu Oct 18 09:15:18 2012
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson)
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2012 11:15:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] VTR 2012 Travel Kit
In-Reply-To: <F0B1C59CFA754FEBBB3F07358BC90844@bboffice>
References: <F0B1C59CFA754FEBBB3F07358BC90844@bboffice>
Message-ID: <005201cdad43$62179860$2646c920$@charter.net>

Some baling wire or other soft steel wire is handy for exhaust system
ties-ups, broken generator brackets, etc. Also, why would you return the
electric fuel pump just because it wasn't used on this particular trip?

Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Wbeech
Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2012 10:12 AM
To: 'Triumph List'
Subject: [TR] VTR 2012 Travel Kit

Rounding up things for the drive to Galveston, hoping I don't need them, and
wondering if I have missed anything.

Points
Plugs
Condenser
Gallon of coolant
Quart of oil, maybe two.
AC Fuel pump(considering buying an electric pump and returning it if I don't
use it) Check the spare, 40lbs

I'm sure I have missed some things, what are the lists recommendations?

Also, anybody coming through NW Texas on a route that will take you through
Abilene?  Contact me off-line and maybe we can have an LBC convoy.

I've got my Team.Net badge on the car, looking forward to putting a face
with some of the great people on this list.

All the best,
Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow"
M.Andretti

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From cofrog at q.com  Thu Oct 18 09:35:20 2012
From: cofrog at q.com (cofrog at q.com)
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2012 11:35:20 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Fuel Pump Wiring
In-Reply-To: <182630232.93041.1350574442094.JavaMail.root@md04.quartz.synacor.com>
Message-ID: <846188980.93096.1350574520857.JavaMail.root@md04.quartz.synacor.com>

Listers, 


Going to install Facet fuel pump. Any downside of using the coil hot connector for a fused power pickup? 


Thanks, 


Dan 

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Oct 18 09:40:05 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2012 08:40:05 -0700
Subject: [TR] Fuel Pump Wiring
In-Reply-To: <846188980.93096.1350574520857.JavaMail.root@md04.quartz.synacor.com>
References: <182630232.93041.1350574442094.JavaMail.root@md04.quartz.synacor.com>
	<846188980.93096.1350574520857.JavaMail.root@md04.quartz.synacor.com>
Message-ID: <018901cdad46$d93222f0$0601a8c0@randall>

> Going to install Facet fuel pump. Any downside of using the 
> coil hot connector for a fused power pickup?

Which car?

One downside might be that it's not fused ...

-- Randall  

From darrellw360 at mac.com  Thu Oct 18 10:12:07 2012
From: darrellw360 at mac.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2012 16:12:07 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] Fuel Pump Wiring
In-Reply-To: <846188980.93096.1350574520857.JavaMail.root@md04.quartz.synacor.com>
Message-ID: <487c58d7-d0da-c99b-b41e-d9ca45a27ad6@me.com>

Rather than power the pump from that connection, you might consider using it to control a relay that provides the operating power to the pump.

On Oct 18, 2012, at 08:35 AM, cofrog at q.com wrote:

Listers, 


Going to install Facet fuel pump. Any downside of using the coil hot connector for a fused power pickup? 


Thanks, 


Dan 

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From auprichard at uprichard.net  Thu Oct 18 11:00:52 2012
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2012 13:00:52 -0400
Subject: [TR] Stupid, stupid
Message-ID: <006b01cdad52$23ac4b70$6b04e250$@uprichard.net>

I am in the middle of a small-mouth restoration and recently had the
stanchions and windscreen frame re-chromed.  Went to install the nine small
tenax fasteners and realized that a previous owner had drilled out two of
the holes.  My fault entirely - I should of course have checked before
paying  all that money for the chroming.  I guess I could go for a larger
tenax and then match the soft-top - otherwise I am at a loss to think what
to do.  Any suggestions out there?

Andrew Uprichard
TR collection getting out of hand - just bought two more candidates......

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Thu Oct 18 11:11:36 2012
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl-TR)
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2012 13:11:36 -0400
Subject: [TR] Stupid, stupid
In-Reply-To: <006b01cdad52$23ac4b70$6b04e250$@uprichard.net>
References: <006b01cdad52$23ac4b70$6b04e250$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <002001cdad53$a1d6c470$e5844d50$@verizon.net>

Could you use some sort of 'super glue' or 'jb weld' in the hole - the
fastener would be installed for the duration - but that may be ok.

Carl


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard
Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2012 1:01 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Stupid, stupid

I am in the middle of a small-mouth restoration and recently had the
stanchions and windscreen frame re-chromed.  Went to install the nine small
tenax fasteners and realized that a previous owner had drilled out two of
the holes.  My fault entirely - I should of course have checked before
paying  all that money for the chroming.  I guess I could go for a larger
tenax and then match the soft-top - otherwise I am at a loss to think what
to do.  Any suggestions out there?

Andrew Uprichard
TR collection getting out of hand - just bought two more candidates......

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net

From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk  Thu Oct 18 11:12:08 2012
From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2012 18:12:08 +0100 (BST)
Subject: [TR] On This Day in History
In-Reply-To: <18465106878F4EBF87782A7C5415AA88@bboffice>
References: <18465106878F4EBF87782A7C5415AA88@bboffice>
Message-ID: <1350580328.94629.YahooMailNeo@web29404.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

The date(s) would have depended on:
 
The port of discharge - New York,
Baltimore, Jacksonville, Houston, San Francisco or Portland
The draw-down date
on the Letter of Credit and whether that L/C had been extended or not, and
The
shipping line / vessel availability and the date when space was booked.
 
By
no means an exact science with many variables - and ultimately a potential
victim of industrial relations on all fronts. I well recall cars stuck in the
UK for anything up to two years after build date because the L/C had expired,
then there were strikes on both sides of the pond and frozen destination
ports.
 
Jonmac
________________________________
 From: Wbeech
<wbeech at flash.net>
To: 'Triumph List' <triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Sent:
Thursday, 18 October 2012, 15:01
Subject: [TR] On This Day in History


>TR3B
- TCF2549L was produced.  Happy Birthday Aunt "B"!
>
>BMIHT Cert says she
shipped on Oct 31st, I often wonder if this was the
>final shipping date for
all TR3Bs.
>
>Bill Beecher
>'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
>'62 TR3B TCF/2549L "
Aunt B" (in rehab)
>www.triumphowners.com/1566
<http://www.triumphowners.com/1566> 
>'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The
Beast"
>"If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too
slow"
>M.Andretti
>
>** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
>Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Thu Oct 18 11:20:09 2012
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2012 13:20:09 -0400
Subject: [TR] Stupid, stupid
In-Reply-To: <006b01cdad52$23ac4b70$6b04e250$@uprichard.net>
References: <006b01cdad52$23ac4b70$6b04e250$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <50803A49.7030406@adelphia.net>

Andrew,

I had the outside driver side hole get stripped so I just glued in the 
male with JB weld. 4 years later it is holding fast.

Bob
On 10/18/2012 01:00 PM, Andrew Uprichard wrote:
> I am in the middle of a small-mouth restoration and recently had the
> stanchions and windscreen frame re-chromed.  Went to install the nine small
> tenax fasteners and realized that a previous owner had drilled out two of
> the holes.  My fault entirely - I should of course have checked before
> paying  all that money for the chroming.  I guess I could go for a larger
> tenax and then match the soft-top - otherwise I am at a loss to think what
> to do.  Any suggestions out there?
>
> Andrew Uprichard
> TR collection getting out of hand - just bought two more candidates......
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr at adelphia.net

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Thu Oct 18 11:22:28 2012
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2012 13:22:28 -0400
Subject: [TR] Fuel Pump Wiring
In-Reply-To: <846188980.93096.1350574520857.JavaMail.root@md04.quartz.synacor.com>
References: <846188980.93096.1350574520857.JavaMail.root@md04.quartz.synacor.com>
Message-ID: <50803AD4.8000702@adelphia.net>

Dan,

I did that same thing on all 3 of my Triumphs. I added an in-line fuse 
about 6 inches from the connection to the coil.
Some on the list have mentioned that a shut-off switch should be mounted 
to cut the juice to the pump in case of accident. I guess this is a good 
safety idea.

Bob

On 10/18/2012 11:35 AM, cofrog at q.com wrote:
> Listers,
>
>
> Going to install Facet fuel pump. Any downside of using the coil hot connector for a fused power pickup?
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Dan

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Oct 18 14:23:31 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2012 16:23:31 -0400
Subject: [TR] Stupid, stupid
In-Reply-To: <006b01cdad52$23ac4b70$6b04e250$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <20121018202331.JK0FK.63660.root@cdptpa-web19-z01>

---- Andrew Uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net> wrote: 
> I am in the middle of a small-mouth restoration and recently had the
> stanchions and windscreen frame re-chromed.  Went to install the nine small
> tenax fasteners and realized that a previous owner had drilled out two of
> the holes. 

There is a special Tenax stud that was originally used only on aluminum frames.  It doesn't thread into the frame at all, instead it passes all the way through and has a slotted flathead "nut" that comes in from the other side.  Only noticeable if you look for it, and not objectionable then, IMO.  I haven't tried it yet, but I am planning to use one of them to 'repair' a stripped hole in my original windshield frame.

TRF had the studs reproduced.  I don't recall the PN offhand, but it's in the SPC.  When you go to drill the frame, use a fine stone to remove the rake at the tip of the drill (basically dull it a bit) so it doesn't dig into the soft brass under the chrome.  It might be wise to use a Dremel and a small abrasive burr to cut through the chrome layer, to avoid the possibility of peeling it off around the hole.

I will also be using a stop collar on the drill bit, to limit depth and hopefully keep it from hitting the glass, but I assume you won't have that problem.

Randall

From terryrs at comcast.net  Thu Oct 18 15:15:10 2012
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2012 21:15:10 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Fuel Pump Wiring
In-Reply-To: <846188980.93096.1350574520857.JavaMail.root@md04.quartz.synacor.com>
Message-ID: <931733431.453195.1350594910085.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Good time to install an under-the-dash shut off switch as a secondary anti-theft device.  The primary device?  --Don't park in a bad neighborhood....???

>  Going to install Facet fuel pump. Any downside of using the coil hot connector for a fused power pickup? 

From terryrs at comcast.net  Thu Oct 18 15:20:48 2012
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2012 21:20:48 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Stupid, stupid
In-Reply-To: <20121018202331.JK0FK.63660.root@cdptpa-web19-z01>
Message-ID: <624687454.453394.1350595248162.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

I did this repair on one of mine.  My screw in "nut" was countersunk, so I just sight drilled a bevel with a bigger drill bit...very carefully.  The chrome screw "nut" blends in exactly as Randall says.  Do be careful of the glass, but I didn't have a problem.

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A  TS 58667
New Hampshire

>There is a special Tenax stud that was originally used only on aluminum frames.  It doesn't thread into the frame at all, instead it passes all the way through and > has a slotted flathead "nut" that comes in from the other side.  Only noticeable if you look for it, and not objectionable then, IMO.  I haven't tried it yet, but >I am planning to use one of them to 'repair' a stripped hole in my original windshield frame.

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Thu Oct 18 15:45:01 2012
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2012 14:45:01 -0700
Subject: [TR] Joe Curry please contact me off list
Message-ID: <5080785D.2040508@gmail.com>

Joe,

Please contact me off list.

Thanks

TeriAnn

tjwakeman at gmail.com

From kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Thu Oct 18 16:04:25 2012
From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer)
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2012 22:04:25 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Stupid, stupid
In-Reply-To: <006b01cdad52$23ac4b70$6b04e250$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <424678591.577019.1350597865017.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

When faced with this problem, I used a nut insert - installs like a pop rivet.
B Available at Harbor Freight

http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/hand-riveters/45-piece-threaded-inser
t-riveter-kit-1210.html B 


I know some people don't like this approach because there is some risk I
suppose of the expansion of the insert hitting the glass, but it worked well
for me.



Bob


----- Original Message -----


From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard at uprichard.net>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2012 10:00:52 AM
Subject: [TR] Stupid, stupid

I am in the middle of a small-mouth restoration and recently had the
stanchions and windscreen frame re-chromed. B Went to install the nine small
tenax fasteners and realized that a previous owner had drilled out two of
the holes. B My fault entirely - I should of course have checked before
paying B all that money for the chroming. B I guess I could go for a larger
tenax and then match the soft-top - otherwise I am at a loss to think what
to do. B Any suggestions out there?

Andrew Uprichard
TR collection getting out of hand - just bought two more candidates......

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From pfischer at rmi.net  Thu Oct 18 16:32:31 2012
From: pfischer at rmi.net (Pat Fischer)
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2012 17:32:31 -0500
Subject: [TR] VTR 2012 Travel Kit
In-Reply-To: <F0B1C59CFA754FEBBB3F07358BC90844@bboffice>
References: <F0B1C59CFA754FEBBB3F07358BC90844@bboffice>
Message-ID: <5080837F.4060405@rmi.net>

I wouldn't waste space on antifreeze unless you're prone to overheating 
problems. That's a lot of weight and space - and availability is darn 
near universal - any Quick Trip. IMO.
Check the potency of the antifreeze and your hoses/clamps before leaving.

Duct tape.

Pat

On 10/18/2012 9:12 AM, Wbeech wrote:
> Rounding up things for the drive to Galveston, hoping I don't need them, and
> wondering if I have missed anything.
>
> Points
> Plugs
> Condenser
> Gallon of coolant
> Quart of oil, maybe two.
> AC Fuel pump(considering buying an electric pump and returning it if I don't
> use it)
> Check the spare, 40lbs
>
> I'm sure I have missed some things, what are the lists recommendations?
>
> Also, anybody coming through NW Texas on a route that will take you through
> Abilene?  Contact me off-line and maybe we can have an LBC convoy.
>
> I've got my Team.Net badge on the car, looking forward to putting a face
> with some of the great people on this list.
>
> All the best,
> Bill
>
> Bill Beecher
> '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
> '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
> www.triumphowners.com/1566
> '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
> "If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow"
> M.Andretti
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pfischer at rmi.net

From dave at ranteer.com  Thu Oct 18 16:38:52 2012
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2012 17:38:52 -0500
Subject: [TR] VTR 2012 Travel Kit
In-Reply-To: <5080837F.4060405@rmi.net>
References: <F0B1C59CFA754FEBBB3F07358BC90844@bboffice>
	<5080837F.4060405@rmi.net>
Message-ID: <4DA44C67EB7740C8A27EF7E61446BABF@Spitfire>

but a gallon of water can be a big life saver, and can get you to the 
quicktrip in relative safety.  I always carry a gallon jug of water.

-----Original Message----- 
From: Pat Fischer
Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2012 5:32 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] VTR 2012 Travel Kit

I wouldn't waste space on antifreeze unless you're prone to overheating
problems. That's a lot of weight and space - and availability is darn
near universal - any Quick Trip. IMO.
Check the potency of the antifreeze and your hoses/clamps before leaving.

Duct tape.

Pat

From pfischer at rmi.net  Thu Oct 18 16:46:03 2012
From: pfischer at rmi.net (Pat Fischer)
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2012 17:46:03 -0500
Subject: [TR] VTR 2012 Travel Kit
In-Reply-To: <4DA44C67EB7740C8A27EF7E61446BABF@Spitfire>
References: <F0B1C59CFA754FEBBB3F07358BC90844@bboffice>
	<5080837F.4060405@rmi.net> <4DA44C67EB7740C8A27EF7E61446BABF@Spitfire>
Message-ID: <508086AB.9050006@rmi.net>

Different experiences, I guess. 40 years of Brit motoring and I've never 
needed water. Well, except for myself!

Cheers.
Pat

On 10/18/2012 5:38 PM, Dave wrote:
> but a gallon of water can be a big life saver, and can get you to the 
> quicktrip in relative safety.  I always carry a gallon jug of water.
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Pat Fischer
> Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2012 5:32 PM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] VTR 2012 Travel Kit
>
> I wouldn't waste space on antifreeze unless you're prone to overheating
> problems. That's a lot of weight and space - and availability is darn
> near universal - any Quick Trip. IMO.
> Check the potency of the antifreeze and your hoses/clamps before leaving.
>
> Duct tape.
>
> Pat
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pfischer at rmi.net

From akgraves at cox.net  Thu Oct 18 17:37:25 2012
From: akgraves at cox.net (Art & Karen Graves)
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2012 18:37:25 -0500
Subject: [TR] VTR 2012 Travel Kit
Message-ID: <001601cdad89$8776ff60$9664fe20$@net>

Bill,
You may want to contact the Red River Triumph Club
(http://www.redrivertriumphclub.org/) or Central Oklahoma Vintage Triumph
Register (http://www.okctriumphs.org/).  They both have large contingents
going to Galveston and you may want to convoy with them.  I live in Tulsa
but will travel on Saturday to Lawton then Wichita Falls then to Dripping
Springs via US281/US290, where I will meet up with the Hill Country Triumph
Club.
 
I have a mail list decal on my windscreen as well  dont see many of them.
 Looking forward to meeting you there!

Art Graves
Tulsa, OK
1976 Triumph TR6

From gpr at key-men.com  Thu Oct 18 19:45:17 2012
From: gpr at key-men.com (George Richardson)
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2012 21:45:17 -0400
Subject: [TR] Stupid, stupid
In-Reply-To: <006b01cdad52$23ac4b70$6b04e250$@uprichard.net>
References: <006b01cdad52$23ac4b70$6b04e250$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <5080B0AD.9040207@key-men.com>

One of my windscreen frames has holes drilled all the way through in two 
spots to all allow a hollow shaft insert with a slotted head to go 
through to the other side where the baby tenax threads in.

George Richardson
Key Men - Keys for Classics
www.key-men.com

On 10/18/2012 1:00 PM, Andrew Uprichard wrote:
> I am in the middle of a small-mouth restoration and recently had the
> stanchions and windscreen frame re-chromed.  Went to install the nine small
> tenax fasteners and realized that a previous owner had drilled out two of
> the holes.  My fault entirely - I should of course have checked before
> paying  all that money for the chroming.  I guess I could go for a larger
> tenax and then match the soft-top - otherwise I am at a loss to think what
> to do.  Any suggestions out there?
>
> Andrew Uprichard
> TR collection getting out of hand - just bought two more candidates......
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/gpr at key-men.com

From dave at ranteer.com  Thu Oct 18 20:18:55 2012
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2012 21:18:55 -0500
Subject: [TR] VTR 2012 Travel Kit
In-Reply-To: <508086AB.9050006@rmi.net>
References: <F0B1C59CFA754FEBBB3F07358BC90844@bboffice><5080837F.4060405@rmi.net>
	<4DA44C67EB7740C8A27EF7E61446BABF@Spitfire> <508086AB.9050006@rmi.net>
Message-ID: <5FA93C6FC69F4EFC86CC13FE43740D41@Spitfire>

I did twice, and didn't have it.  this very nice young couple stopped off 
and asked if they could help.  they brought me water.  another time I didn't 
have it I happened to be near a creek . . .

of course, I've never needed it since, except for the time when the mga I 
was traveling with did.  I had it then.

-----Original Message----- 
From: Pat Fischer
Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2012 5:46 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] VTR 2012 Travel Kit

Different experiences, I guess. 40 years of Brit motoring and I've never
needed water. Well, except for myself!

Cheers.
Pat

On 10/18/2012 5:38 PM, Dave wrote:
> but a gallon of water can be a big life saver, and can get you to the 
> quicktrip in relative safety.  I always carry a gallon jug of water.
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Pat Fischer
> Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2012 5:32 PM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] VTR 2012 Travel Kit
>
> I wouldn't waste space on antifreeze unless you're prone to overheating
> problems. That's a lot of weight and space - and availability is darn
> near universal - any Quick Trip. IMO.
> Check the potency of the antifreeze and your hoses/clamps before leaving.
>
> Duct tape.

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Fri Oct 19 08:42:56 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2012 07:42:56 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] VTR 2012 Travel Kit
In-Reply-To: <F0B1C59CFA754FEBBB3F07358BC90844@bboffice>
References: <F0B1C59CFA754FEBBB3F07358BC90844@bboffice>
Message-ID: <1350657776.42955.YahooMailNeo@web120001.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

in the immortal words of Click and Clack
another TR3 parts car to tow behind
:-)
Frank


From: Wbeech <wbeech at flash.net>
To: 'Triumph List'
<triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2012 7:12 AM
Subject:
[TR] VTR 2012 Travel Kit

Rounding up things for the drive to Galveston,
hoping I don't need them, and
wondering if I have missed anything.

Points
Plugs
Condenser
Gallon of coolant
Quart of oil, maybe two.
AC Fuel
pump(considering buying an electric pump and returning it if I don't
use it)
Check the spare, 40lbs

I'm sure I have missed some things, what are the lists
recommendations?

Also, anybody coming through NW Texas on a route that will
take you through
Abilene?  Contact me off-line and maybe we can have an LBC
convoy.

I've got my Team.Net badge on the car, looking forward to putting a
face
with some of the great people on this list.

All the best,
Bill

Bill
Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"If you
think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow"
M.Andretti
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Fri Oct 19 08:43:35 2012
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2012 10:43:35 -0400
Subject: [TR] Minilite wheels from UK -- production issues
Message-ID: <CAPK7CFAhyYEuLv2VtVP4dmnZCKHOBxNdL2OvpiRAnmRxuTjrDg@mail.gmail.com>

Cross-posting from the TR-Register forum.  KN Wheels, the company that
manufactures Minilite wheels for the owner of the brand and tooling, has
gone into bankruptcy and Minilite is starting the search for a new maker.
 If you're looking for some of those wheels, look quick...

http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?showtopic=37666

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Fri Oct 19 08:47:26 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2012 07:47:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Stupid, stupid
In-Reply-To: <006b01cdad52$23ac4b70$6b04e250$@uprichard.net>
References: <006b01cdad52$23ac4b70$6b04e250$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <1350658046.42573.YahooMailNeo@web120001.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

a small stainless steel washer under every one would give a uniform look and
fix the 2 that are now under size.
Frank

From: Andrew Uprichard
<auprichard at uprichard.net>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Thursday,
October 18, 2012 10:00 AM
Subject: [TR] Stupid, stupid

I am in the middle of
a small-mouth restoration and recently had the
stanchions and windscreen frame
re-chromed.  Went to install the nine small
tenax fasteners and realized that
a previous owner had drilled out two of
the holes.  My fault entirely - I
should of course have checked before
paying  all that money for the chroming. 
I guess I could go for a larger
tenax and then match the soft-top - otherwise
I am at a loss to think what
to do.  Any suggestions out there?

Andrew
Uprichard
TR collection getting out of hand - just bought two more
candidates......

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From areich at telus.net  Fri Oct 19 10:31:23 2012
From: areich at telus.net (Allan Reich)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2012 09:31:23 -0700
Subject: [TR] VTR 2012 Travel Kit
Message-ID: <5081805B.9050802@telus.net>

Four important things I would add are:
     - roll of baling wire
     - roll of electrical wire (14 awg)
     - small can of misc bolts and nuts
     - assortment of "zap" straps (the new baling wire)

Allan Reich
1975 TR6 - CF30255U (+O)

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Fri Oct 19 10:53:30 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2012 09:53:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] VTR 2012 Travel Kit
In-Reply-To: <5081805B.9050802@telus.net>
References: <5081805B.9050802@telus.net>
Message-ID: <1350665610.61116.YahooMailNeo@web120001.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

cheep white coverall
gloves
that stuff that you can clean your hands with and
wipe off on a rag.
Frank

From: Allan Reich <areich at telus.net>
To:
wbeech at flash.net; triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Friday, October 19, 2012 9:31
AM
Subject: Re: [TR] VTR 2012 Travel Kit

Four important things I would add
are:
    - roll of baling wire
    - roll of electrical wire (14 awg)
    -
small can of misc bolts and nuts
    - assortment of "zap" straps (the new
baling wire)

Allan Reich
1975 TR6 - CF30255U (+O)

** triumphs at autox.team.net
**

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Archive:
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From auprichard at uprichard.net  Fri Oct 19 11:18:10 2012
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2012 13:18:10 -0400
Subject: [TR] Stupid, stupid
In-Reply-To: <20121018202331.JK0FK.63660.root@cdptpa-web19-z01>
References: <006b01cdad52$23ac4b70$6b04e250$@uprichard.net>
	<20121018202331.JK0FK.63660.root@cdptpa-web19-z01>
Message-ID: <00ca01cdae1d$b85e6110$291b2330$@uprichard.net>

Thanks as always to Randall.  Solves my problem for the one hole not obscured
by the windscreen glass.  The other hole, unfortunately, is.  Before I go with
the JB weld option, is there any way of drilling through glass without
cracking it?  The pop-rivet nut insert isn't going to work as the glass is too
close to the frame.

Before you ask, the glass can't be removed from the frame.  It's a long
story.....

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: Randall [mailto:tr3driver at ca.rr.com]
Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2012 4:24 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net; Andrew Uprichard
Subject: Re: [TR] Stupid, stupid


---- Andrew Uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net> wrote:
> I am in the middle of a small-mouth restoration and recently had the
> stanchions and windscreen frame re-chromed.  Went to install the nine
> small tenax fasteners and realized that a previous owner had drilled
> out two of the holes.

There is a special Tenax stud that was originally used only on aluminum
frames.  It doesn't thread into the frame at all, instead it passes all the
way through and has a slotted flathead "nut" that comes in from the other
side.  Only noticeable if you look for it, and not objectionable then, IMO.  I
haven't tried it yet, but I am planning to use one of them to 'repair' a
stripped hole in my original windshield frame.

TRF had the studs reproduced.  I don't recall the PN offhand, but it's in the
SPC.  When you go to drill the frame, use a fine stone to remove the rake at
the tip of the drill (basically dull it a bit) so it doesn't dig into the soft
brass under the chrome.  It might be wise to use a Dremel and a small abrasive
burr to cut through the chrome layer, to avoid the possibility of peeling it
off around the hole.

I will also be using a stop collar on the drill bit, to limit depth and
hopefully keep it from hitting the glass, but I assume you won't have that
problem.

Randall

From levilevi at comcast.net  Fri Oct 19 11:41:43 2012
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2012 11:41:43 -0600
Subject: [TR] Stupid, stupid
In-Reply-To: <00ca01cdae1d$b85e6110$291b2330$@uprichard.net>
References: <006b01cdad52$23ac4b70$6b04e250$@uprichard.net>
	<20121018202331.JK0FK.63660.root@cdptpa-web19-z01>
	<00ca01cdae1d$b85e6110$291b2330$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <95632196-CAAE-44F2-8D1E-9EB24D3E22E1@comcast.net>

You could try a diamond encrusted bit. They are very pricey and no  
guarantees on not breaking the glass but that's the only way I've seen.


Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)







On Oct 19, 2012, at 11:18 AM, Andrew Uprichard wrote:

>  is there any way of drilling through glass without
> cracking it?

From wbeech at flash.net  Fri Oct 19 11:44:31 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2012 12:44:31 -0500
Subject: [TR] Stupid, stupid
In-Reply-To: <00ca01cdae1d$b85e6110$291b2330$@uprichard.net>
References: <006b01cdad52$23ac4b70$6b04e250$@uprichard.net>
	<20121018202331.JK0FK.63660.root@cdptpa-web19-z01>
	<00ca01cdae1d$b85e6110$291b2330$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <FA9A7A1E-950F-4D24-BDD9-D7414C2838D2@flash.net>

No, do not try to drill the glass.

It will solve you problem in that you will have to remove the frame to replace
the windshield.

Bill

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 19, 2012, at 12:18 PM, "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard at uprichard.net>
wrote:

Thanks as always to Randall.  Solves my problem for the one hole not obscured
by the windscreen glass.  The other hole, unfortunately, is.  Before I go
with
the JB weld option, is there any way of drilling through glass without
cracking it?  The pop-rivet nut insert isn't going to work as the glass is
too
close to the frame.

Before you ask, the glass can't be removed from the frame.  It's a long
story.....

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: Randall [mailto:tr3driver at ca.rr.com]
Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2012 4:24 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net; Andrew Uprichard
Subject: Re: [TR] Stupid, stupid


---- Andrew Uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net> wrote:
> I am in the middle of a small-mouth restoration and recently had the
> stanchions and windscreen frame re-chromed.  Went to install the nine
> small tenax fasteners and realized that a previous owner had drilled
> out two of the holes.

There is a special Tenax stud that was originally used only on aluminum
frames.  It doesn't thread into the frame at all, instead it passes all the
way through and has a slotted flathead "nut" that comes in from the other
side.  Only noticeable if you look for it, and not objectionable then, IMO.
I
haven't tried it yet, but I am planning to use one of them to 'repair' a
stripped hole in my original windshield frame.

TRF had the studs reproduced.  I don't recall the PN offhand, but it's in the
SPC.  When you go to drill the frame, use a fine stone to remove the rake at
the tip of the drill (basically dull it a bit) so it doesn't dig into the
soft
brass under the chrome.  It might be wise to use a Dremel and a small
abrasive
burr to cut through the chrome layer, to avoid the possibility of peeling it
off around the hole.

I will also be using a stop collar on the drill bit, to limit depth and
hopefully keep it from hitting the glass, but I assume you won't have that
problem.

Randall

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Oct 19 13:10:11 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2012 15:10:11 -0400
Subject: [TR] Stupid, stupid
In-Reply-To: <00ca01cdae1d$b85e6110$291b2330$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <20121019191011.8H7CK.70088.root@cdptpa-web19-z01>

---- Andrew Uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net> wrote: 
> Thanks as always to Randall.  Solves my problem for the one hole not obscured
> by the windscreen glass.  The other hole, unfortunately, is.  Before I go with
> the JB weld option, is there any way of drilling through glass without
> cracking it?  

Yes, with care and patience.  Get one of those cheap miniature diamond burr sets from HF and grind away the glass.  Don't try to hurry it, you don't want the glass to get too hot (which can break it).  You can also spray a bit of water to help keep it cool.  If your Dremel has a speed adjustment, slow it down somewhat (again to reduce heat buildup).

But note that the "through hole" studs have a necked-down section, to help them clear the edge of the glass.  If the edge is only partially obscuring the hole, you might not have to grind.

Randall

From pethier at comcast.net  Fri Oct 19 13:44:07 2012
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2012 19:44:07 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] VTR 2012 Travel Kit
In-Reply-To: <1350665610.61116.YahooMailNeo@web120001.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1787758609.498202.1350675847000.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Best is the old man's took kit:

A aa card and a cell phone.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier at comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

From rzempel at gmail.com  Fri Oct 19 15:12:10 2012
From: rzempel at gmail.com (Randall Zempel)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2012 14:12:10 -0700
Subject: [TR] Stupid, stupid
Message-ID: <CAJqHAiY0zuaE4p9eDrLehwsz+ymNW9BywEx01a5=cwRBT8FLew@mail.gmail.com>

Andrew, can you tap the hole one size up and put in a thread insert?

Randall Z

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Fri Oct 19 15:40:14 2012
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2012 17:40:14 -0400
Subject: [TR] Stupid, stupid
In-Reply-To: <CAJqHAiY0zuaE4p9eDrLehwsz+ymNW9BywEx01a5=cwRBT8FLew@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJqHAiY0zuaE4p9eDrLehwsz+ymNW9BywEx01a5=cwRBT8FLew@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <00eb01cdae42$53f656e0$fbe304a0$@uprichard.net>

No - the glass prevents an insert.  But I did order 2 of the bolt-through
tenax, per the other Randall, and we'll see if I can manipulate them around
the glass.

Andrew

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Zempel
Sent: Friday, October 19, 2012 5:12 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Stupid, stupid

Andrew, can you tap the hole one size up and put in a thread insert?

Randall Z

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From rzempel at gmail.com  Fri Oct 19 16:27:25 2012
From: rzempel at gmail.com (Randall Zempel)
Date: Fri, 19 Oct 2012 15:27:25 -0700
Subject: [TR] Stupid, stupid
In-Reply-To: <CAJqHAiZyV-k81Pq1Xio0bZRpFaALV050BuCkYj6OZKNOcT+JvA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJqHAiY0zuaE4p9eDrLehwsz+ymNW9BywEx01a5=cwRBT8FLew@mail.gmail.com>
	<00eb01cdae42$53f656e0$fbe304a0$@uprichard.net>
	<CAJqHAiZyV-k81Pq1Xio0bZRpFaALV050BuCkYj6OZKNOcT+JvA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAJqHAiaF+srhyWRw6PAkLdyVjzGRcxJKv1azSGF00k2ju7qV6g@mail.gmail.com>

How much depth of metal do you have to work with?  The original depth of a
tenax fastener, right?  Perhaps a "custom" insert could be made to work.
It shouldn't have to be a real one...it could be just a short piece of
threaded metal with a threaded hole in the middle for the tenax.  Drill and
tap a small bolt down the center, cut it to the length of the tenax
threads, screw it onto the tenax body, use a bottoming tap to cut new
threads in the windshield frame, then screw the modified tenax into the
frame.

I'd be very, very cautious with the glass.  You're likely to end up with a
crack running from that point well into the windscreen.

Randall Z

From moira.secrest at verizon.net  Sat Oct 20 07:56:16 2012
From: moira.secrest at verizon.net (M. Secrest)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 09:56:16 -0400
Subject: [TR] '72 TR6 O/D and Clutch
Message-ID: <374B8CCD-B05D-41A4-A997-ACF97BF99548@verizon.net>

This winter's project is to r/r my overdrive, at which time I'd like to
replace the clutch. Can I do this w/o actually lifting the gearbox out of the
car, just sliding it back?

Martin Secrest
72 TR6
Arlington, VA

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sat Oct 20 08:36:17 2012
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 10:36:17 -0400
Subject: [TR] '72 TR6 O/D and Clutch
In-Reply-To: <374B8CCD-B05D-41A4-A997-ACF97BF99548@verizon.net>
References: <374B8CCD-B05D-41A4-A997-ACF97BF99548@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <5082B6E1.7080009@adelphia.net>

Martin,

In order to remove the pressure plate and disc, the transmission must 
travel past the front of the pressure plate. Since it is already 
disconnected from the engine (through the disc) you my as well just pull 
it out all the way. Remember the disc must be aligned correctly using a 
jig or a spare input shaft so re-assembling the transmission will go 
smoothly.
The more room the better.

In my younger days, I could do this myself but the last time I did it I 
had an assistant.

Bob

On 10/20/2012 09:56 AM, M. Secrest wrote:
> This winter's project is to r/r my overdrive, at which time I'd like to
> replace the clutch. Can I do this w/o actually lifting the gearbox out of the
> car, just sliding it back?
>
> Martin Secrest
> 72 TR6
> Arlington, VA
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From mark at bradakis.com  Sat Oct 20 10:20:54 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 10:20:54 -0600
Subject: [TR] '72 TR6 O/D and Clutch
In-Reply-To: <374B8CCD-B05D-41A4-A997-ACF97BF99548@verizon.net>
References: <374B8CCD-B05D-41A4-A997-ACF97BF99548@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <5082CF66.1060203@bradakis.com>

The whole job will be a LOT easier, especially getting the overdrive 
back on the tranny
if you pull it out.

mjb.

From moira.secrest at verizon.net  Sat Oct 20 15:49:02 2012
From: moira.secrest at verizon.net (M. Secrest)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 17:49:02 -0400
Subject: [TR] '72 TR6 O/D and Clutch
In-Reply-To: <374B8CCD-B05D-41A4-A997-ACF97BF99548@verizon.net>
References: <374B8CCD-B05D-41A4-A997-ACF97BF99548@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <0FA6404E-6212-4D7D-A744-2215B70CC697@verizon.net>

Thanks for the help everyone. The gearbox is coming out, with friend's help
(though he doesn't know it yet).

Sent by my butler

On Oct 20, 2012, at 9:56 AM, "M. Secrest" <moira.secrest at verizon.net> wrote:

> This winter's project is to r/r my overdrive, at which time I'd like to
replace the clutch. Can I do this w/o actually lifting the gearbox out of the
car, just sliding it back?
>
> Martin Secrest
> 72 TR6
> Arlington, VA
>
> Sent by my butler

From northwestnick at gmail.com  Sat Oct 20 16:21:19 2012
From: northwestnick at gmail.com (Nick Wolf)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 15:21:19 -0700
Subject: [TR] Trade or sell TR4 for Herald convertible
Message-ID: <CAMZbddVTZsk2Jb+K9zyBAJf0KQd_YjYPfGW9v3gtM-11wqUivA@mail.gmail.com>

Hi listers
  I've got a growing family, which is why I haven't posted here in a long
time.  It's also why I've decided to sell my TR4 and go looking for a
Herald convertible.  Michelotti styling with 4 seats!
  My car is an early '62 TR4, signal red with black leather interior and
overdrive. It's an older restoration in good shape, with just a few quirks
to sort out.
  Is there anyone out there with a really nice Herald who might be
interested in a part trade?  Please contact me off list.
  Details and photos are here:
http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/3353232526.html

  Thanks!
-Nick
1962 TR4
Seattle, WA

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sat Oct 20 16:38:18 2012
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 18:38:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] Trade or sell TR4 for Herald convertible
In-Reply-To: <CAMZbddVTZsk2Jb+K9zyBAJf0KQd_YjYPfGW9v3gtM-11wqUivA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAMZbddVTZsk2Jb+K9zyBAJf0KQd_YjYPfGW9v3gtM-11wqUivA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <508327DA.1020203@adelphia.net>

Nick,

Dont do it! The TR4s are becoming very rare by the day. And I took a 
quick look at yours and it is a beauty!

I am lucky to have a 3, 4 and a 6 and I have to say the 4 is the one 
that gets the oooh ahhhs at car hops and shows. One does not see them 
come up too often on Ebay and Craigslist. At least in my area. I have 
had my 4 for  6 seasons since restoration and I have seen 2 others in my 
travels.

Get a Herald fix ur upper and put the 4 in storage for now. I see 
Heralds on Ebay from time to time for very low $.

Bob

On 10/20/2012 06:21 PM, Nick Wolf wrote:
> Hi listers
>    I've got a growing family, which is why I haven't posted here in a long
> time.  It's also why I've decided to sell my TR4 and go looking for a
> Herald convertible.  Michelotti styling with 4 seats!
>    My car is an early '62 TR4, signal red with black leather interior and
> overdrive. It's an older restoration in good shape, with just a few quirks
> to sort out.
>    Is there anyone out there with a really nice Herald who might be
> interested in a part trade?  Please contact me off list.
>    Details and photos are here:
> http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/3353232526.html
>
>    Thanks!
> -Nick
> 1962 TR4
> Seattle, WA
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr at adelphia.net

From cliff_hansen at earthlink.net  Sat Oct 20 17:10:28 2012
From: cliff_hansen at earthlink.net (Cliff Hansen)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 17:10:28 -0600
Subject: [TR] Splash plates for TR4A
Message-ID: <1F38D6BEEBE94288BD99B6118AABFD1D@Shemp>

Anyone try to fit TRFbs splash plates (behind front wheels, between inner
and outer fenders)?  They sell the same part for the 4A through 6.  If these
are the correct parts for the 4A, they will take some significant rebending to
follow the angles on the inner fender.  Wondering if somehow I got a bad pair
or if there are better choices out there.

Thanks,

Cliff

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sat Oct 20 18:32:26 2012
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 20:32:26 -0400
Subject: [TR] Splash plates for TR4A
In-Reply-To: <1F38D6BEEBE94288BD99B6118AABFD1D@Shemp>
References: <1F38D6BEEBE94288BD99B6118AABFD1D@Shemp>
Message-ID: <5083429A.50408@adelphia.net>

Cliff,

As far as I can tell they are the same. I had a stock NOS set for my TR4 
and they fit perfect as you would expect. On my 6, I had just 1 side and 
I actually fabricated the other by reversing the pattern with the one 
that I did have.

Since I had stock parts, I am guessing that the reproductions are not up 
to spec.

If it was me, I would return them and hope for a set to appear on Ebay. 
Believe it or not they do show up from time to time.

If your old ones are useable to make a pattern, they are not that hard 
to fabricate out of fresh sheet metal.

Bob

On 10/20/2012 07:10 PM, Cliff Hansen wrote:
> Anyone try to fit TRFbs splash plates (behind front wheels, between inner
> and outer fenders)?  They sell the same part for the 4A through 6.  If these
> are the correct parts for the 4A, they will take some significant rebending to
> follow the angles on the inner fender.  Wondering if somehow I got a bad pair
> or if there are better choices out there.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Cliff

From mark at bradakis.com  Sat Oct 20 19:09:00 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 19:09:00 -0600
Subject: [TR] Sweet!
Message-ID: <50834B2C.3070708@bradakis.com>

I finally took the time to sit down and focus on the Team.Net archiving 
problem.
It seems to be working once again.  Click on the archive link and check 
it out.
There are still some problems, like the "prev" and "next" buttons, but 
the basic
functionality is there, the archives are getting updated every hour.

And feel free to click on the links for the Google ads, I could use a 
few pennies
and nickles for a celebratory beverage.  Maybe an Epic Spiral Jetty IPA 
or a some
of their Imperial Red...


mjb.

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Sat Oct 20 19:49:18 2012
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 20:49:18 -0500
Subject: [TR] Splash plates for TR4A
In-Reply-To: <5083429A.50408@adelphia.net>
References: <1F38D6BEEBE94288BD99B6118AABFD1D@Shemp>
	<5083429A.50408@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <2CC05182FC6C4DDE80658A8B7B6AF942@GregPC>

I agree with Bob, I would return them, they are very easy to fabricate and 
even easier to repair if you have acess to a welder, usually only the bottom 
part is rusted.

Greg

From wbeech at flash.net  Sat Oct 20 22:16:58 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 23:16:58 -0500
Subject: [TR] Sweet!
In-Reply-To: <50834B2C.3070708@bradakis.com>
References: <50834B2C.3070708@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <84B28769A53B43ED8C4D55B79D8115F0@bboffice>

Sweet indeed!  And, they are fast.

Not sure about your ads, I either just bought a Dodge Dart or a GMC Denali,
HD 1-ton dually!

Thanks Mark,
Bill 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis
Sent: Saturday, October 20, 2012 8:09 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] Sweet!

I finally took the time to sit down and focus on the Team.Net archiving
problem.
It seems to be working once again.  Click on the archive link and check it
out.
There are still some problems, like the "prev" and "next" buttons, but the
basic functionality is there, the archives are getting updated every hour.

And feel free to click on the links for the Google ads, I could use a few
pennies and nickles for a celebratory beverage.  Maybe an Epic Spiral Jetty
IPA or a some of their Imperial Red...


mjb.

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From northwestnick at gmail.com  Sun Oct 21 16:20:01 2012
From: northwestnick at gmail.com (Nick Wolf)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2012 15:20:01 -0700
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 5, Issue 423
In-Reply-To: <mailman.13.1350842402.4145.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.13.1350842402.4145.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <CAMZbddVvFov4eCiyrQuYtgLAXGJGtPJJsOf_PG7jcSY0zeKYfA@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks, Bob... And I know, I know: It makes absolutely no sense to sell a
good TR4.
But our single-car garage and tight budget unfortunately have other plans.
I'm quite certain that there will be another TR4 in our future, but not for
a few years.
  Cheers!
-Nick

Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2012 18:38:18 -0400
> From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr at adelphia.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] Trade or sell TR4 for Herald convertible
>
> Nick,
>
> Dont do it! The TR4s are becoming very rare by the day. And I took a
> quick look at yours and it is a beauty!
>
> I am lucky to have a 3, 4 and a 6 and I have to say the 4 is the one
> that gets the oooh ahhhs at car hops and shows. One does not see them
> come up too often on Ebay and Craigslist. At least in my area. I have
> had my 4 for  6 seasons since restoration and I have seen 2 others in my
> travels.
>
> Get a Herald fix ur upper and put the 4 in storage for now. I see
> Heralds on Ebay from time to time for very low $.
>
> Bob

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sun Oct 21 18:21:30 2012
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2012 17:21:30 -0700
Subject: [TR] Draft Excluder & Rear View Mirrors
In-Reply-To: <CANzE1bFMjdFfuE5xeYPpgeSDZ-D=7Waha=-9OCYQJwT-+OcgZw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1350492051.63669.YahooMailNeo@web180902.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<CANzE1bFMjdFfuE5xeYPpgeSDZ-D=7Waha=-9OCYQJwT-+OcgZw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bFcMo7EDq+8u8wVHu9Lq=h0DC96r3OdPWmYgh05pmnZcQ@mail.gmail.com>

No financial interest (or experience with the product or seller) but came
across this on ebay while looking for something else and thought they could
be a useful option:

Clip On
Mirrors<http://www.ebay.com/itm/Clip-Side-Mirrors-MG-Triumph-Porsche-Austin-M
orris-/270763273713?_trksid=p5713.m2061&_trkparms=aid%3D333005%26algo%3DRIC.F
IT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D25%26meid%3D2907725435346991752%26pid%3D100041%26prg%3D10
10%26rk%3D5%26sd%3D160899818255%26>

Geo


On Wed, Oct 17, 2012 at 10:03 AM, Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com> wrote:

> On Wed, Oct 17, 2012 at 9:40 AM, William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>wrote:
>
>> ... One [mirror] is mounted to the side of the upper windshield stanchion
>> (i would like to know where the mirror came from)...
>>
>
>
> Moss has them, though they no longer list them as a Triumph part.
>
> Quarterlight
Mirror<http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/products/PDF/165-175.pdf>
>
> p/n
165-175<http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/SearchResults.aspx?SearchText=165-175&
WebCatalogID=0>
>
> Geo

From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Mon Oct 22 07:40:15 2012
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 16:40:15 +0300
Subject: [TR] Club Triumph track day at Goodwood
Message-ID: <CAPK7CFCcgM8kSK1efiwfNgYF+F+aNoW11CyqJD9r3pEGHK3pSw@mail.gmail.com>

One and a half hours of running at Goodwood in my TR for a couple hundred
bucks?  You bet I'm jealous of some of the options across the water!

http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?showtopic=37696#entry285882

Don
1962 TR3B TSF202L

From tr3a.60 at gmail.com  Mon Oct 22 12:10:35 2012
From: tr3a.60 at gmail.com (John Wise)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 14:10:35 -0400
Subject: [TR] Non TR question
Message-ID: <3E44E5F2-D217-424D-B887-5C8DBC5AC400@gmail.com>

My daughter is thinking about an E-type Jag (hopefully she will let her dad
drive it once in a while).

I told her my biggest concern would be the "classic" british wiring problems.
I was wondering if any one knows of Dan Masters like modern wiring redo for
the e-Type??  The one I put in my TR-3A has made it as reliable as my wife's
Honda.

Thanks

John


John Wise
Ormond Beach, FL

1960 TR3A
http://wisegroupllc.org/_/TR3A.html

1977 Porsche 911S ('86 3.2 engine)
http://wisegroupllc.org/_/Porsche.html

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Oct 22 12:20:11 2012
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 14:20:11 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Club Triumph track day at Goodwood
Message-ID: <6239d.2b983615.3db6e85a@cs.com>

About the best we can do over here is an autocross.  Slower speeds but 
still a hoot.  And no real noise limit.

Dave

In a message dated 10/22/2012 8:40:25 AM Central Daylight Time, 
don.hiscock at gmail.com writes: 
> One and a half hours of running at Goodwood in my TR for a couple hundred
> bucks?  You bet I'm jealous of some of the options across the water!
> 
> http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?showtopic=37696#entry285882

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Mon Oct 22 12:29:47 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 11:29:47 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Non TR question
In-Reply-To: <3E44E5F2-D217-424D-B887-5C8DBC5AC400@gmail.com>
References: <3E44E5F2-D217-424D-B887-5C8DBC5AC400@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1350930587.95590.YahooMailNeo@web120004.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

personally i have no problems with the original wiring of LBC's.
put in a new
harness from British wire.
be sure the bullet connectors are good and that
ground wires are properly grounded.
if you want added peace of mind shrink
tape over the bullet connectors
use the electric grease because of where you
are.
 
that the old lucas electric was bad was more myth than fact. it was
about non maintenance.


From: John Wise <tr3a.60 at gmail.com>
To: car
discussion Sports Triumph <Triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Monday, October 22,
2012 11:10 AM
Subject: [TR] Non TR question

My daughter is thinking about an
E-type Jag (hopefully she will let her dad
drive it once in a while).

I told
her my biggest concern would be the "classic" british wiring problems.
I was
wondering if any one knows of Dan Masters like modern wiring redo for
the
e-Type??  The one I put in my TR-3A has made it as reliable as my wife's
Honda.

Thanks

John


John Wise
Ormond Beach, FL

1960 TR3A
http://wisegroupllc.org/_/TR3A.html

1977 Porsche 911S ('86 3.2 engine)
http://wisegroupllc.org/_/Porsche.html

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From wbeech at flash.net  Mon Oct 22 13:00:29 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 14:00:29 -0500
Subject: [TR] Non TR question
In-Reply-To: <1350930587.95590.YahooMailNeo@web120004.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <3E44E5F2-D217-424D-B887-5C8DBC5AC400@gmail.com>
	<1350930587.95590.YahooMailNeo@web120004.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <0684B1913E0140119DF9C3A525FF8523@bboffice>

I agree with Frank, I am running an Auto Spark harness (also sold by BW)
with no problems four years in.  Have a friend with a 1970 E-Type, probably
stock or original harness, no problems reported from him over ten years.

Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow"
M.Andretti
 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Fisher
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2012 1:30 PM
To: John Wise; car discussion Sports Triumph
Subject: Re: [TR] Non TR question

personally i have no problems with the original wiring of LBC's.
put in a new
harness from British wire.
be sure the bullet connectors are good and that ground wires are properly
grounded.
if you want added peace of mind shrink
tape over the bullet connectors
use the electric grease because of where you are.
 
that the old lucas electric was bad was more myth than fact. it was about
non maintenance.


From: John Wise <tr3a.60 at gmail.com>
To: car
discussion Sports Triumph <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 22,
2012 11:10 AM
Subject: [TR] Non TR question

My daughter is thinking about an
E-type Jag (hopefully she will let her dad drive it once in a while).

I told
her my biggest concern would be the "classic" british wiring problems.
I was
wondering if any one knows of Dan Masters like modern wiring redo for the
e-Type??  The one I put in my TR-3A has made it as reliable as my wife's
Honda.

Thanks

John


John Wise
Ormond Beach, FL

1960 TR3A
http://wisegroupllc.org/_/TR3A.html

1977 Porsche 911S ('86 3.2 engine)
http://wisegroupllc.org/_/Porsche.html

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
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From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Mon Oct 22 13:27:49 2012
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 12:27:49 -0700
Subject: [TR] Non TR question
In-Reply-To: <3E44E5F2-D217-424D-B887-5C8DBC5AC400@gmail.com>
References: <3E44E5F2-D217-424D-B887-5C8DBC5AC400@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bHax+8aX-7OwYuKvXYAypKwgrzY4m5XOc0BthUwHcB22Q@mail.gmail.com>

I, too, would favor a stock harness.  Considering that this may be a
$70,000 to $100,000 car, I would think it's value might be diminished by an
non-original wiring loom.

IMO, there are a lot of mods where a tired original is replaced by a new
upgrade and the upgrade gets a lot of credit for the resulting improvement
when, in fact, simply rebuilding or replacing with 'as original' would have
also yielded similar improvement.

Geo

On Mon, Oct 22, 2012 at 11:10 AM, John Wise <tr3a.60 at gmail.com> wrote:

> My daughter is thinking about an E-type Jag (hopefully she will let her dad
> drive it once in a while).
>
> I told her my biggest concern would be the "classic" british wiring
> problems.
> I was wondering if any one knows of Dan Masters like modern wiring redo for
> the e-Type??

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Mon Oct 22 14:22:30 2012
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 16:22:30 -0400
Subject: [TR] Stupid, stupid
In-Reply-To: <20121019191011.8H7CK.70088.root@cdptpa-web19-z01>
References: <00ca01cdae1d$b85e6110$291b2330$@uprichard.net>
	<20121019191011.8H7CK.70088.root@cdptpa-web19-z01>
Message-ID: <006901cdb092$f6c06490$e4412db0$@uprichard.net>

The through studs worked like a dream.  Very sweaty as I made my way through
the glass, but one would be hard pressed to distinguish the "through-hole"
studs from the original fasteners.  Randall comes through again.

And to stop him having to reply, I'll do it for him.

"Aw shucks - just tryin' to help.........."

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: Randall [mailto:tr3driver at ca.rr.com]
Sent: Friday, October 19, 2012 3:10 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net; Andrew Uprichard
Subject: Re: [TR] Stupid, stupid


---- Andrew Uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net> wrote:
> Thanks as always to Randall.  Solves my problem for the one hole not
> obscured by the windscreen glass.  The other hole, unfortunately, is.
> Before I go with the JB weld option, is there any way of drilling
> through glass without cracking it?

Yes, with care and patience.  Get one of those cheap miniature diamond burr
sets from HF and grind away the glass.  Don't try to hurry it, you don't want
the glass to get too hot (which can break it).  You can also spray a bit of
water to help keep it cool.  If your Dremel has a speed adjustment, slow it
down somewhat (again to reduce heat buildup).

But note that the "through hole" studs have a necked-down section, to help
them clear the edge of the glass.  If the edge is only partially obscuring the
hole, you might not have to grind.

Randall

From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com  Mon Oct 22 19:19:13 2012
From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly)
Date: Mon, 22 Oct 2012 18:19:13 -0700
Subject: [TR] Club Triumph track day at Goodwood
In-Reply-To: <6239d.2b983615.3db6e85a@cs.com>
References: <6239d.2b983615.3db6e85a@cs.com>
Message-ID: <002f01cdb0bc$6a504c80$3ef0e580$@rr.com>

Next year's VTR/Triumphest's autocross was said to be held at Sonoma Raceway
(ex-inferion, ex-Sear's Point).  Hmmm, for a reasonable fee that would fun
to take 10 or 15 laps. Any of the organizers listening?
Johnnie


> About the best we can do over here is an autocross.  Slower speeds but
> still a hoot.  And no real noise limit.
> 
> Dave
> 
> In a message dated 10/22/2012 8:40:25 AM Central Daylight Time,
> don.hiscock at gmail.com writes:
> > One and a half hours of running at Goodwood in my TR for a couple
> hundred
> > bucks?  You bet I'm jealous of some of the options across the water!

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Tue Oct 23 07:31:31 2012
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2012 09:31:31 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Early TR4 Steering Rack Question
Message-ID: <77a5.1a4d1499.3db7f633@aol.com>

List,
 
I have some old-age induced play in my steering rack (it's definitely in  
the rack and not at the inner rod cups).  Finding a new or  rebuilt early TR4 
steering rack is getting to be a challenge.  Since  they're seem to be a 
lot of later TR4 racks for sale, I'm wondering if there's  anyway to fit the 
later rack to the earlier TR4 frame mounts.  
 
I know that the mountings are different between the later TR4/TR6 racks and 
 the early racks but has anyone been able to actually mount a later rack to 
and  earlier TR4 frame?
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA 
1962 TR4  CT2052L

From dconnitt at fuse.net  Tue Oct 23 08:11:19 2012
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2012 10:11:19 -0400
Subject: [TR] Splash plates for TR4A
In-Reply-To: <1F38D6BEEBE94288BD99B6118AABFD1D@Shemp>
References: <1F38D6BEEBE94288BD99B6118AABFD1D@Shemp>
Message-ID: <2DEFB04397224C789215B956EAD5D1C5@DaveLaptop>

Hi Cliff,
Thanks for the warning. I was considering buying a set of those splash 
plates myself. Sounds like you are getting closer to finishing your car.
I am at the wiring harness decision stage myself.. I would prefer to go with 
the Advanced Autowire harness but the last time I checked, it was $520.00. I 
may go that way anyway..
Regards,
Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A IRS
http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Tue Oct 23 09:35:06 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2012 08:35:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3 cup holder
Message-ID: <1351006506.36036.YahooMailNeo@web120002.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

some time ago i asked the question of what you guys where using for a cup holder in your TR3.
some one told me they where using a nice slim dual holder form a VW Jetta. and you sent me a picture of it installed.
i finally won one on ebay.
could that nice person contact me to discuss how you mounted it under your glove box?
thanks
Frank

From wbeech at flash.net  Tue Oct 23 09:53:43 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2012 10:53:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 cup holder
In-Reply-To: <1351006506.36036.YahooMailNeo@web120002.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1351006506.36036.YahooMailNeo@web120002.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <14A78D65ECAC46E684C11DCB6A5A5403@bboffice>

If they do make contact, I would like to see a picture of it as well.
Thx,
Bill 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Fisher
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2012 10:35 AM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] TR3 cup holder

some time ago i asked the question of what you guys where using for a cup
holder in your TR3.
some one told me they where using a nice slim dual holder form a VW Jetta.
and you sent me a picture of it installed.
i finally won one on ebay.
could that nice person contact me to discuss how you mounted it under your
glove box?
thanks
Frank

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From allenhess at mgcarclub.com  Tue Oct 23 12:46:29 2012
From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2012 14:46:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] Early TR4 Steering Rack Question
In-Reply-To: <mailman.10.1351015202.6789.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.10.1351015202.6789.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <2B71ADDA-003A-4C13-9513-5B8CB7E048FE@mgcarclub.com>

Is the play mostly when driving straight? My pinion was worn in the  
straight position, rack was OK. Replaced the pinion and fine for the  
last 12 years. The later racks may not have the locating pins used for  
the solid mounts, but I don't know.

Allen
CT13678L

> I have some old-age induced play in my steering rack (it's  
> definitely in
> the rack and not at the inner rod cups).  Finding a new or  rebuilt  
> early TR4
> steering rack is getting to be a challenge.  Since  they're seem to  
> be a
> lot of later TR4 racks for sale, I'm wondering if there's  anyway to  
> fit the
> later rack to the earlier TR4 frame mounts.
>
> I know that the mountings are different between the later TR4/TR6  
> racks and
> the early racks but has anyone been able to actually mount a later  
> rack to
> and  earlier TR4 frame?
>
> Chip Krout
> Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
> Skippack, PA
> 1962 TR4  CT2052L

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Tue Oct 23 14:36:39 2012
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2012 16:36:39 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Early TR4 Steering Rack Question
Message-ID: <1ab3.67cbb050.3db859d7@aol.com>

The play is noticeable when the wheels are off the ground and I turn the  
steering wheel side-to-side or when the wheels are off the ground and I grab 
a  wheel and move it left or right.  The play (subtle, muffled click) is  
coming from the rack & pinion area.  
 
If these are rebuildable, where does one buy a rebuild kit?
 
Another thing I wondered about....years ago I owned a 1966 Chevy  Corvair.  
As the steering box got "sloppy", I was able to tighten the lash  at the 
box with an adjustment screw/bolt......of course that wasn't rack &  pinion 
but does the TR rack have an adjustment capability to tighten lash?
 
chip
 
 
In a message dated 10/23/2012 2:55:32 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
allenhess at mgcarclub.com writes:

Is the  play mostly when driving straight? 

From aljlthomson at charter.net  Tue Oct 23 15:16:44 2012
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2012 17:16:44 -0400
Subject: [TR] Early TR4 Steering Rack Question
In-Reply-To: <1ab3.67cbb050.3db859d7@aol.com>
References: <1ab3.67cbb050.3db859d7@aol.com>
Message-ID: <006201cdb163$b3ebdbf0$1bc393d0$@charter.net>

Chip - Worm and sector steering boxes often have some play built into the
system when the gears are at sharp steering angles. This way, since most of
the wear occurs at straight angles, the lash adjustment won't cause binding
when you steer into corners but can reduce backlash where you don't want it
which is in the straight ahead position. If you over-adjust the lash screw,
you will find the steering is much better when driving straight ahead but
corners will terrify you when the steering wheel won't self-center. That
means the sector or worm shaft is worn. Hopefully that makes sense. So much
for that type of steering box. 

Looking at the Big Brown Book for TR-6 repair, I see a shim pack that can
adjust for end play of the pinion and there is also a steering rack damper
that helps to snub side-to-side play of the rack. In this case, side-to side
movement is perpendicular to the rack, not parallel. That is also adjusted
with shim packs. Not sure how similar a TR-4 is. I'm sure more knowledgeable
folks will reply.

Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chip19474 at aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2012 4:37 PM
To: allenhess at mgcarclub.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Early TR4 Steering Rack Question

The play is noticeable when the wheels are off the ground and I turn the
steering wheel side-to-side or when the wheels are off the ground and I grab
a  wheel and move it left or right.  The play (subtle, muffled click) is
coming from the rack & pinion area.  
 
If these are rebuildable, where does one buy a rebuild kit?
 
Another thing I wondered about....years ago I owned a 1966 Chevy  Corvair.  
As the steering box got "sloppy", I was able to tighten the lash  at the box
with an adjustment screw/bolt......of course that wasn't rack &  pinion but
does the TR rack have an adjustment capability to tighten lash?
 
chip
 
 
In a message dated 10/23/2012 2:55:32 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
allenhess at mgcarclub.com writes:

Is the  play mostly when driving straight? 

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From allenhess at mgcarclub.com  Tue Oct 23 17:38:45 2012
From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2012 19:38:45 -0400
Subject: [TR] Early TR4 Steering Rack Question
In-Reply-To: <1ab3.67cbb050.3db859d7@aol.com>
References: <1ab3.67cbb050.3db859d7@aol.com>
Message-ID: <C238BCE8-5D03-44F9-868D-9282789C4E5C@mgcarclub.com>

Moss has most of the parts. I think I got mine from TRF years ago. All  
the info and specs are in the Bentley Manual. Aside from the pinion  
there is a bushing for the pinion shaft and shims to adjust pinion  
mesh to the rack. There is also a ball joint on each end of the rack  
(inside the boot) which uses shims to adjust the play. One other thing  
about maintenance; there is a threaded plug in the cap which shims the  
pinion. That plug is supposed to be removed and a grease fitting  
installed to grease the rack, then take the fitting out and reinstall  
the plug.

Allen
On Oct 23, 2012, at 4:36 PM, Chip19474 at aol.com wrote:

> The play is noticeable when the wheels are off the ground and I turn  
> the steering wheel side-to-side or when the wheels are off the  
> ground and I grab a wheel and move it left or right.  The play  
> (subtle, muffled click) is coming from the rack & pinion area.
>
> If these are rebuildable, where does one buy a rebuild kit?
>
> Another thing I wondered about....years ago I owned a 1966 Chevy  
> Corvair.  As the steering box got "sloppy", I was able to tighten  
> the lash at the box with an adjustment screw/bolt......of course  
> that wasn't rack & pinion but does the TR rack have an adjustment  
> capability to tighten lash?
>
> chip
>
> In a message dated 10/23/2012 2:55:32 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, allenhess at mgcarclub.com 
>  writes:
> Is the play mostly when driving straight?

From kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Tue Oct 23 18:13:37 2012
From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2012 17:13:37 -0700
Subject: [TR] Club Triumph track day at Goodwood
In-Reply-To: <002f01cdb0bc$6a504c80$3ef0e580$@rr.com>
References: <6239d.2b983615.3db6e85a@cs.com>
	<002f01cdb0bc$6a504c80$3ef0e580$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <003401cdb17c$6a26a130$3e73e390$@net>

Johnnie,
What would you consider a reasonable fee?

Bob

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John & Pat Donnelly
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2012 6:19 PM
To: Dave1massey at cs.com; Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Club Triumph track day at Goodwood

Next year's VTR/Triumphest's autocross was said to be held at Sonoma Raceway
(ex-inferion, ex-Sear's Point).  Hmmm, for a reasonable fee that would fun
to take 10 or 15 laps. Any of the organizers listening?
Johnnie


> About the best we can do over here is an autocross.  Slower speeds but 
> still a hoot.  And no real noise limit.
> 
> Dave
> 
> In a message dated 10/22/2012 8:40:25 AM Central Daylight Time, 
> don.hiscock at gmail.com writes:
> > One and a half hours of running at Goodwood in my TR for a couple
> hundred
> > bucks?  You bet I'm jealous of some of the options across the water!

From Catpusher at aol.com  Tue Oct 23 19:38:21 2012
From: Catpusher at aol.com (Catpusher at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2012 21:38:21 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Re Non TR question
Message-ID: <44896.3acfe476.3db8a08c@aol.com>

I am the second owner of a 67 E Type that I have put well over 200,000  
miles on; many of them towing my
56 TR3 race car to SCCA National events.  66 and 67 were great years  for E 
Types; and Jaguar clearly must have paid Lucas more money for the  
electrical items than other makes, and the quality shows.
 
TR Regards,       Hardy
 
Wise <tr3a.60 at gmail.com>
To: car discussion Sports Triumph  <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Non TR  question

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Tue Oct 23 19:48:35 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2012 18:48:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Club Triumph track day at Goodwood
In-Reply-To: <003401cdb17c$6a26a130$3e73e390$@net>
References: <6239d.2b983615.3db6e85a@cs.com>
	<002f01cdb0bc$6a504c80$3ef0e580$@rr.com>
	<003401cdb17c$6a26a130$3e73e390$@net>
Message-ID: <1351043315.41768.YahooMailNeo@web120001.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

i suspect the insurance would be the biggest cost..
but as i think infineon is
the best track in the world, id pay  lot to take laps in my TR.
i keep wanting
to take the open wheel class.
 



________________________________
From:
Kinderlehrer <kinderlehrer at comcast.net>
To: 'John & Pat Donnelly'
<pdonnel1 at san.rr.com>; Dave1massey at cs.com; Triumphs at autox.team.net 
Cc: Cregg
Cowan (Cregg Cowan) <cregg.cowan at sri.com>; Richard & Karyn Gibbon
<krgibbon at volcano.net> 
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2012 5:13 PM
Subject: Re:
[TR] Club Triumph track day at Goodwood

Johnnie,
What would you consider a
reasonable fee?

Bob

-----Original Message-----
From:
triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of John & Pat Donnelly
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2012 6:19 PM
To:
Dave1massey at cs.com; Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Club Triumph
track day at Goodwood

Next year's VTR/Triumphest's autocross was said to be
held at Sonoma Raceway
(ex-inferion, ex-Sear's Point).  Hmmm, for a reasonable
fee that would fun
to take 10 or 15 laps. Any of the organizers listening?
Johnnie


> About the best we can do over here is an autocross.  Slower speeds
but 
> still a hoot.  And no real noise limit.
> 
> Dave
> 
> In a message
dated 10/22/2012 8:40:25 AM Central Daylight Time, 
> don.hiscock at gmail.com
writes:
> > One and a half hours of running at Goodwood in my TR for a couple
> hundred
> > bucks?  You bet I'm jealous of some of the options across the
water!

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From cregg.cowan at sri.com  Tue Oct 23 20:12:17 2012
From: cregg.cowan at sri.com (Cregg Cowan)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2012 19:12:17 -0700
Subject: [TR] Club Triumph track day at Goodwood --> VTR/Triumphest 2013
 AutoX at Sonoma Raceway
In-Reply-To: <1351043315.41768.YahooMailNeo@web120001.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <6239d.2b983615.3db6e85a@cs.com>
	<002f01cdb0bc$6a504c80$3ef0e580$@rr.com>
	<003401cdb17c$6a26a130$3e73e390$@net>
	<1351043315.41768.YahooMailNeo@web120001.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <50874E81.8080207@sri.com>

We are planning to have the autoX at Sonoma/Infineon/Sears Point, but it 
will almost certainly be in the paddock parking area.
The track has told us that we can have a lunch-time track drive, 
depending on who has rented the track that day (Thursday Oct 3).  
Certainly if someone has paid for the track and is not taking a lunch 
break, then we won't get the track drive.  In any event, they won't be 
high speed laps.

Let me know if you have more questions...

Cregg Cowan
TTSCC 2012 Activity Coordinator
TTSCC 2013 Triumphest/VTR Co-Chair

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Tue Oct 23 20:32:50 2012
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2012 19:32:50 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] control head backplate
Message-ID: <1351045970.24817.YahooMailNeo@web120602.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Am needing to open up the control head again and have a question about the
backplate.  The backplate tube slides over the stator tube as I see it.  I'm
also thinking it has to fit tightly enough to hold the control head solid
while turning.  Is this simply a friction fit?  Or is there something inside
the backplate tube that slides into the slot in the stator tube?
thanks

gary
n.

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Oct 23 23:51:33 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2012 22:51:33 -0700
Subject: [TR] control head backplate
In-Reply-To: <1351045970.24817.YahooMailNeo@web120602.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1351045970.24817.YahooMailNeo@web120602.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <00b501cdb1ab$9fae80f0$0601a8c0@randall>

>  Or is there 
> something inside
> the backplate tube that slides into the slot in the stator tube?

Should be 3 places where the outer tube is punched inward, to form
projections that engage the slot.  Otherwise, the fit between the two tubes
is fairly loose.  On adjustable steering wheels the outer tube slides when
you adjust the wheel position.

-- Randall  

From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Wed Oct 24 04:11:47 2012
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 06:11:47 -0400
Subject: [TR] DE Craigslist TR3A at decent price
Message-ID: <CAPK7CFADqZ_w+41BtqrOd3XKTtQ3t0796i4Pm8fTXiLPV1KZig@mail.gmail.com>

No affiliation, but I do kinda like that Union Jack motif on the center
instrument panel...

http://delaware.craigslist.org/cto/3225073561.html

Don
1962 TR3B TSF202L

From oldpine47 at frontiernet.net  Wed Oct 24 09:17:20 2012
From: oldpine47 at frontiernet.net (Fred Light)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 11:17:20 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A seat springs
Message-ID: <1370153D4DE24096850B16BF8BAEC1DB@Oldpine47HP>

Anyone know where I can get two seat springs for my TR3 other than the big
three suppliers.  I am looking for used, but restorable springs
TIA
Fred
TS57038 is mine

From trguy75 at gmail.com  Wed Oct 24 16:41:46 2012
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 18:41:46 -0400
Subject: [TR] Paint Color - Dash
Message-ID: <02b801cdb238$c08e5b00$41ab1100$@gmail.com>

Can someone tell me the correct white color for an early 1962 TR4 dash?  I
can't find the documentation for spa white, old English white, or whatever
white.  Looking for the correct white for concours.  Many thanks!

Jim Henningsen

62 TR4 - fresh out of the paint booth

75 TR6

Ocala, FL

From zoboherald at aol.com  Thu Oct 25 08:27:17 2012
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 10:27:17 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Paint Color - Dash
In-Reply-To: <02b801cdb238$c08e5b00$41ab1100$@gmail.com>
References: <02b801cdb238$c08e5b00$41ab1100$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8CF80D3F7F69A8F-18C0-3018C@Webmail-m123.sysops.aol.com>

It should be Triumph's Spa White. See

http://www.vtr.org/maintain/paint-charts/martin-senour-colors.jpg

for the old Martin-Senour code.



--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us




-----Original Message-----
From: James Henningsen <trguy75 at gmail.com>
To: triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Oct 24, 2012 8:24 pm
Subject: [TR] Paint Color - Dash


Can someone tell me the correct white color for an early 1962 TR4 dash?  I
can't find the documentation for spa white, old English white, or whatever
white.  Looking for the correct white for concours.  Many thanks!

Jim Henningsen

62 TR4 - fresh out of the paint booth

75 TR6

Ocala, FL

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From jdemuth at ties2.net  Thu Oct 25 08:46:32 2012
From: jdemuth at ties2.net (Joe DeMuth)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 09:46:32 -0500
Subject: [TR] Seat springs
Message-ID: <FF475A44-213C-43E5-8EE5-801A401687B4@ties2.net>

I am also looking for a pair of used springs for a TR3A. Maybe  
somebody has a warehouse of them. I need a set that still have a  
little life in them. Otherwise I will resort to foam. 

From perryfly at gmail.com  Thu Oct 25 13:40:53 2012
From: perryfly at gmail.com (=?utf-8?B?cGVycnlmbHlAZ21haWwuY29t?=)
Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2012 15:40:53 -0400
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Body_shop_close_to_Indianapolis?=
Message-ID: <508995c6.c9b4320a.40e5.fffffb25@mx.google.com>

After 15 years guess it was time 
Big jacked up pickup backed into the tr3
Sad 
Not too bad.  Still drivable.
Will need apron and paint match which will be no easy task 
I am in indy.  My go to guy won't do it 
Tucker madawick passed away in Bloomington and shop closed 
Need a good shop anywhere close to central Indiana 
This is an insurance claim so doesn't have to be cheap 
Appreciate any leads 

Perry Hammock
61 tr3a 
Apple green 

Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4GLTE smartphone

From mtgaines at presby.edu  Thu Oct 25 22:23:10 2012
From: mtgaines at presby.edu (Tim Gaines)
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2012 00:23:10 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] roll bars
In-Reply-To: <32510849.68.1351223661733.JavaMail.User@User-PC>
Message-ID: <30013321.86.1351225386159.JavaMail.User@User-PC>

I've decided that I have been pushing my luck driving my TR6 without a roll
bar.  From what I have read on archived forums, there really is very little
added safety from roll bars that aren't bolted or welded to the frame.  One of
my Miata friends tells me that his Hard Dog bar is just that, but Hard Dog
doesn't make one for the TR6, and I'm not finding any other one that I can
afford.  I like the "looks" of the Boss Frog bar; it looks pretty sturdy with
a single loop spanning both seats with bracing that provides four mounting
feet and two additional diagonal braces.  It looks just like the one Moss
sells.  Trouble is, the feet simply bolt through the floor panel to heavy-duty
back plates with no frame mounting.  I'm wondering if the back plates under
the main (front) feet, which are pretty close to a frame member, could
actually be connected to the frame by welding them to flanges.  I had a local
welding shop fabricate and weld support flanges for my differential mount
early on, and it doesn't seem that these back plates would be all that
different a job.  Maybe I could even work out a template for new back plates
that actually have a flange that could be welded to the frame.  So, my
question is, has anyone actually done something like this, or is it a hair
brained idea?  I'm also worried that mounting just the front two feet rather
than all four this way may not give enough strength.  What do you think?

Tim Gaines
Clinton, SC
1974 TR6
1980 Spitfire

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Fri Oct 26 05:58:26 2012
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob)
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2012 07:58:26 -0400
Subject: [TR] roll bars
In-Reply-To: <30013321.86.1351225386159.JavaMail.User@User-PC>
References: <30013321.86.1351225386159.JavaMail.User@User-PC>
Message-ID: <D14406F7661845F99653759F23B142FE@BobDell>

Francois came up with this double hoop roll bar 
(https://sites.google.com/site/faucherf/rollbar) that he sells the plans for 
in pdf & cad format. This is a decorative bar but you may be able to adapt 
it to a functional bar by re-using the dimensions.

Bob


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/

1975 TR6 modified with:
-Throttle Body Injection
-Toyota 5 Speed
-Nissan Differential
-AAW Wire Harness
-CVJs... and more

-----Original Message----- 
From: Tim Gaines
Sent: Friday, October 26, 2012 12:23 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] roll bars

I've decided that I have been pushing my luck driving my TR6 without a roll
bar.  From what I have read on archived forums, there really is very little
added safety from roll bars that aren't bolted or welded to the frame.  One 
of
my Miata friends tells me that his Hard Dog bar is just that, but Hard Dog
doesn't make one for the TR6, and I'm not finding any other one that I can
afford.  I like the "looks" of the Boss Frog bar; it looks pretty sturdy 
with
a single loop spanning both seats with bracing that provides four mounting
feet and two additional diagonal braces.  It looks just like the one Moss
sells.  Trouble is, the feet simply bolt through the floor panel to 
heavy-duty
back plates with no frame mounting.  I'm wondering if the back plates under
the main (front) feet, which are pretty close to a frame member, could
actually be connected to the frame by welding them to flanges.  I had a 
local
welding shop fabricate and weld support flanges for my differential mount
early on, and it doesn't seem that these back plates would be all that
different a job.  Maybe I could even work out a template for new back plates
that actually have a flange that could be welded to the frame.  So, my
question is, has anyone actually done something like this, or is it a hair
brained idea?  I'm also worried that mounting just the front two feet rather
than all four this way may not give enough strength.  What do you think?

Tim Gaines
Clinton, SC
1974 TR6
1980 Spitfire

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Fri Oct 26 06:01:36 2012
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2012 08:01:36 -0400
Subject: [TR] roll bars
In-Reply-To: <30013321.86.1351225386159.JavaMail.User@User-PC>
References: <30013321.86.1351225386159.JavaMail.User@User-PC>
Message-ID: <508A7BA0.8090205@adelphia.net>

Tim,

I have no opinion on roll bars, but I have heard it mentioned on this 
list and forums that classic insurance companies will not insure a car 
with a roll bar.

Again, I have no experience with roll bars so this may be BS.

But, it wouldn't hurt to check with your insurance underwriter first.

Bob

On 10/26/2012 12:23 AM, Tim Gaines wrote:
> I've decided that I have been pushing my luck driving my TR6 without a roll
> bar.  From what I have read on archived forums, there really is very little
> added safety from roll bars that aren't bolted or welded to the frame.  One of
> my Miata friends tells me that his Hard Dog bar is just that, but Hard Dog
> doesn't make one for the TR6, and I'm not finding any other one that I can
> afford.  I like the "looks" of the Boss Frog bar; it looks pretty sturdy with
> a single loop spanning both seats with bracing that provides four mounting
> feet and two additional diagonal braces.  It looks just like the one Moss
> sells.  Trouble is, the feet simply bolt through the floor panel to heavy-duty
> back plates with no frame mounting.  I'm wondering if the back plates under
> the main (front) feet, which are pretty close to a frame member, could
> actually be connected to the frame by welding them to flanges.  I had a local
> welding shop fabricate and weld support flanges for my differential mount
> early on, and it doesn't seem that these back plates would be all that
> different a job.  Maybe I could even work out a template for new back plates
> that actually have a flange that could be welded to the frame.  So, my
> question is, has anyone actually done something like this, or is it a hair
> brained idea?  I'm also worried that mounting just the front two feet rather
> than all four this way may not give enough strength.  What do you think?
>
> Tim Gaines
> Clinton, SC
> 1974 TR6
> 1980 Spitfire

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Fri Oct 26 06:30:03 2012
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2012 08:30:03 -0400
Subject: [TR] roll bars
In-Reply-To: <508A7BA0.8090205@adelphia.net>
References: <30013321.86.1351225386159.JavaMail.User@User-PC>
	<508A7BA0.8090205@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <00ef01cdb375$a0400c70$e0c02550$@uprichard.net>

Both my TRs (a TR3 and a TR250) have roll bars and the insurance (American
Collectors) was unaffected

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Labuz
Sent: Friday, October 26, 2012 8:02 AM
To: Tim Gaines
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] roll bars

Tim,

I have no opinion on roll bars, but I have heard it mentioned on this list
and forums that classic insurance companies will not insure a car with a
roll bar.

Again, I have no experience with roll bars so this may be BS.

But, it wouldn't hurt to check with your insurance underwriter first.

Bob

On 10/26/2012 12:23 AM, Tim Gaines wrote:
> I've decided that I have been pushing my luck driving my TR6 without a 
> roll bar.  From what I have read on archived forums, there really is 
> very little added safety from roll bars that aren't bolted or welded 
> to the frame.  One of my Miata friends tells me that his Hard Dog bar 
> is just that, but Hard Dog doesn't make one for the TR6, and I'm not 
> finding any other one that I can afford.  I like the "looks" of the 
> Boss Frog bar; it looks pretty sturdy with a single loop spanning both 
> seats with bracing that provides four mounting feet and two additional 
> diagonal braces.  It looks just like the one Moss sells.  Trouble is, 
> the feet simply bolt through the floor panel to heavy-duty back plates 
> with no frame mounting.  I'm wondering if the back plates under the 
> main (front) feet, which are pretty close to a frame member, could 
> actually be connected to the frame by welding them to flanges.  I had 
> a local welding shop fabricate and weld support flanges for my 
> differential mount early on, and it doesn't seem that these back 
> plates would be all that different a job.  Maybe I could even work out 
> a template for new back plates that actually have a flange that could 
> be welded to the frame.  So, my question is, has anyone actually done 
> something like this, or is it a hair brained idea?  I'm also worried that
mounting just the front two feet rather than all four this way may not give
enough strength.  What do you think?
>
> Tim Gaines
> Clinton, SC
> 1974 TR6
> 1980 Spitfire

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From pethier at comcast.net  Fri Oct 26 07:40:50 2012
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2012 13:40:50 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] roll bars
In-Reply-To: <30013321.86.1351225386159.JavaMail.User@User-PC>
Message-ID: <336337928.752152.1351258850974.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

> I've decided that I have been pushing my luck driving my TR6 without a
> roll
> bar. From what I have read on archived forums, there really is very
> little
> added safety from roll bars that aren't bolted or welded to the frame.

Nonsense.  If your TR6 body is unrusted original or properly-repaired with welded steel, you are fine.

> One of
> my Miata friends tells me that his Hard Dog bar is just that,

A Miata does not *have* a frame, and neither do all the Spridgets and MGBs with roll bars.  I seem to remember that your Spitfire does not have a frame at the locations where roll bars go.  The Miata body is generally about as strong as a TR6 in this context.

> I'm wondering if the back plates
> under
> the main (front) feet, which are pretty close to a frame member, could
> actually be connected to the frame by welding them to flanges. 

Sure, but now you have the street disadvantage of a race car: no padding between frame and body.  More vibration and noise.

> I had a
> local
> welding shop fabricate and weld support flanges for my differential
> mount
> early on, and it doesn't seem that these back plates would be all that
> different a job. Maybe I could even work out a template for new back
> plates
> that actually have a flange that could be welded to the frame. So, my
> question is, has anyone actually done something like this, or is it a
> hair
> brained idea? I'm also worried that mounting just the front two feet
> rather
> than all four this way may not give enough strength. What do you
> think?

It's not a hare-brained idea, but it is way not necessary.  As I said, if your body is in good shape, a body-mounted roll bar with proper backplates is just as safe as your Miata buddy's. 


Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier at comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Fri Oct 26 10:43:37 2012
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2012 12:43:37 -0400
Subject: [TR] roll bars
In-Reply-To: <30013321.86.1351225386159.JavaMail.User@User-PC>
References: <32510849.68.1351223661733.JavaMail.User@User-PC>,
	<30013321.86.1351225386159.JavaMail.User@User-PC>
Message-ID: <BLU168-W918F4465E5619560BE7A3FBA7E0@phx.gbl>

Depends on how far you want to go I guess.  I purchased a roll bar kit from
Jegs and installed it in my 6 a few years ago.  Two of the mounts go through
the parcel shelf and are welded to the frame. Two more protrude backward
through the rear panel in front of the gas tank and then through the floor of
the trunk and are welded to the frame there.  Gas tank has been replace with a
fuel cell in the trunk.  I had a pretend roll bar in place for years, after my
wife had the car up on two wheels at an autocross I decided to put in a more
robust unit.

Marty

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Fri Oct 26 11:01:10 2012
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2012 13:01:10 -0400
Subject: [TR] roll bars
In-Reply-To: <336337928.752152.1351258850974.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <30013321.86.1351225386159.JavaMail.User@User-PC>
	<336337928.752152.1351258850974.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <00fc01cdb39b$81040700$830c1500$@uprichard.net>

I got a roll bar for my TR250 from Racetorations in the UK.  I was worried
that, unlike my TR3, this one was not bolted to the frame.  Then my cousin
(who owns Racetorations) sent me a picture of a TR6 which had rolled in an
accident.  Roll bar saved the driver's life.  So I agree with Phil.

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of pethier at comcast.net
Sent: Friday, October 26, 2012 9:41 AM
To: Tim Gaines
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] roll bars

> I've decided that I have been pushing my luck driving my TR6 without a 
> roll bar. From what I have read on archived forums, there really is 
> very little added safety from roll bars that aren't bolted or welded 
> to the frame.

Nonsense.  If your TR6 body is unrusted original or properly-repaired with
welded steel, you are fine.

> One of
> my Miata friends tells me that his Hard Dog bar is just that,

A Miata does not *have* a frame, and neither do all the Spridgets and MGBs
with roll bars.  I seem to remember that your Spitfire does not have a frame
at the locations where roll bars go.  The Miata body is generally about as
strong as a TR6 in this context.

> I'm wondering if the back plates
> under
> the main (front) feet, which are pretty close to a frame member, could 
> actually be connected to the frame by welding them to flanges.

Sure, but now you have the street disadvantage of a race car: no padding
between frame and body.  More vibration and noise.

> I had a
> local
> welding shop fabricate and weld support flanges for my differential 
> mount early on, and it doesn't seem that these back plates would be 
> all that different a job. Maybe I could even work out a template for 
> new back plates that actually have a flange that could be welded to 
> the frame. So, my question is, has anyone actually done something like 
> this, or is it a hair brained idea? I'm also worried that mounting 
> just the front two feet rather than all four this way may not give 
> enough strength. What do you think?

It's not a hare-brained idea, but it is way not necessary.  As I said, if
your body is in good shape, a body-mounted roll bar with proper backplates
is just as safe as your Miata buddy's. 


Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier at comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From pethier at comcast.net  Fri Oct 26 11:58:32 2012
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2012 17:58:32 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] roll bars
In-Reply-To: <BLU168-W918F4465E5619560BE7A3FBA7E0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <1946524524.764841.1351274312914.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

----- Original Message -----
> From: "marty sukey" <trmarty at hotmail.com>
> To: mtgaines at presby.edu, triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Friday, October 26, 2012 11:43:37 AM
> Subject: Re: [TR] roll bars
> Depends on how far you want to go I guess. I purchased a roll bar kit
> from
> Jegs and installed it in my 6 a few years ago. Two of the mounts go
> through
> the parcel shelf and are welded to the frame. Two more protrude
> backward
> through the rear panel in front of the gas tank and then through the
> floor of
> the trunk and are welded to the frame there. 

That will get you a nice increase in frame rigidity, always a nice thing in competition cars with serious spring rates.  Can't believe it does much for safety in street or autocross.  A roll bar is either adequate or not.  Overkill does not add value.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier at comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Fri Oct 26 12:28:45 2012
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2012 14:28:45 -0400
Subject: [TR] roll bars
In-Reply-To: <1946524524.764841.1351274312914.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <BLU168-W918F4465E5619560BE7A3FBA7E0@phx.gbl>,
	<1946524524.764841.1351274312914.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BLU168-W120EE58968EA92773187A09BA7E0@phx.gbl>

Same could be said for a fancy paint job I guess.  Added value for me and
that's what counts from my end :)

Marty


> That will get you a nice increase in frame rigidity, always a nice thing in
competition cars with serious spring rates. Can't believe it does much for
safety in street or autocross. A roll bar is either adequate or not. Overkill
does not add value.

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Fri Oct 26 13:32:07 2012
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2012 12:32:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] headlights dimmer
Message-ID: <1351279927.94193.YahooMailNeo@web120601.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

I've installed the tripod 700 headlights (tr-3) with two relays per headlight,
one each for high and low beams.  This includes a red wire power line from
starter solenoid on firewall.  Today I tried the dimmer switch for the first
time with no change.  All I have is brights and the lights go out completely
when I hit the dimmer.
I'm checking into the switch but also wonder about the
red power wire and whether that needs to go through the dimmer switch?  Or is
this comparable to the front turn signal lights in that I need to reverse the
wires to the headlights?  

Electrical neophyte dufus here. LOL

gary n.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Oct 26 16:47:28 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2012 18:47:28 -0400
Subject: [TR] headlights dimmer
In-Reply-To: <1351279927.94193.YahooMailNeo@web120601.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20121026224728.VURPO.108924.root@cdptpa-web19-z01>

Kind of hard to say with that description.  It is possible to wire the bulbs wrong, but usually in that case you get a dim yellow glow rather than nothing at all.

I would start by verifying the voltages at the low beam relays with the low beams enabled.  You should find 12v across the relay coil terminals (85 and 86 if you used a modern style relay) (UR to black wires if you kept the original wiring colors).  And 12v from the relay output (the wire to the headlight) to ground.

-- Randall

---- Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg at yahoo.com> wrote: 
> I've installed the tripod 700 headlights (tr-3) with two relays per headlight,
> one each for high and low beams.  This includes a red wire power line from
> starter solenoid on firewall.  Today I tried the dimmer switch for the first
> time with no change.  All I have is brights and the lights go out completely
> when I hit the dimmer.
> I'm checking into the switch but also wonder about the
> red power wire and whether that needs to go through the dimmer switch?  Or is
> this comparable to the front turn signal lights in that I need to reverse the
> wires to the headlights?  

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Fri Oct 26 17:16:01 2012
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2012 16:16:01 -0700
Subject: [TR] headlights dimmer
In-Reply-To: <1351279927.94193.YahooMailNeo@web120601.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1351279927.94193.YahooMailNeo@web120601.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bEOH1b57FCVJuuLHTUxF3VXKzufZA_QCJgiEMhtMw+7Og@mail.gmail.com>

You may have lost a ground.  I experimented with a poor ground and found
the low beams could 'find' a ground via the high beam indicator light on
the speedo.

Do you really have brights but no low beams or are you seeing the indicator
light up when the lights are on and assuming that it is the high beams
you're seeing?

IOW, when I had a bad ground I could get low beams & the indicator light
but switching to high beams got me nothing,

Geo

On Fri, Oct 26, 2012 at 12:32 PM, Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg at yahoo.com> wrote:

> Today I tried the dimmer switch for the first
> time with no change.  All I have is brights and the lights go out
> completely
> when I hit the dimmer...

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Oct 26 20:17:44 2012
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2012 22:17:44 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] headlights dimmer
Message-ID: <29202.2e783342.3dbc9e48@cs.com>

I wouldn't be surprised if you are running both filaments when they are on. 
 How are the relay coils wired up?  The relay coil for the high (main) beam 
should be powered off of the Blue/White wire and the relay coil for the low 
(dip)beam should be powered off of the Blue/Red wire.  If both relays are 
wired to the same blue/something wire then they are both energizing at the 
same time instead of alternately.

Dave

In a message dated 10/26/2012 2:32:15 PM Central Daylight Time, 
nafzigerg at yahoo.com writes: 
> I've installed the tripod 700 headlights (tr-3) with two relays per 
> headlight,
> one each for high and low beams.  This includes a red wire power line from
> starter solenoid on firewall.  Today I tried the dimmer switch for the 
> first
> time with no change.  All I have is brights and the lights go out 
> completely
> when I hit the dimmer.
> I'm checking into the switch but also wonder about the
> red power wire and whether that needs to go through the dimmer switch?  Or 
> is
> this comparable to the front turn signal lights in that I need to reverse 
> the
> wires to the headlights?  

From dixie4.wales at virgin.net  Sat Oct 27 04:46:45 2012
From: dixie4.wales at virgin.net (Dixie4)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2012 11:46:45 +0100
Subject: [TR] headlights dimmer
In-Reply-To: <29202.2e783342.3dbc9e48@cs.com>
References: <29202.2e783342.3dbc9e48@cs.com>
Message-ID: <06B3DC3A98144F86B29019838E1DB5D1@AdrianPC>

Have I missed something here on this thread.

My question is why would someone want to fit a headlamp dimmer?
Is it not the purpose of headlamps to be as bright as possible to see where 
you are going?
Or is it some local regulation in towns maybe.
Someone enlighten me or am I just being dim (excuse the double pun).

Adrian TR4A CT 64306 O
Wales UK.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Dave1massey at cs.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2012 3:17 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] headlights dimmer


>I wouldn't be surprised if you are running both filaments when they are on.
> How are the relay coils wired up?  The relay coil for the high (main) beam
> should be powered off of the Blue/White wire and the relay coil for the 
> low
> (dip)beam should be powered off of the Blue/Red wire.  If both relays are
> wired to the same blue/something wire then they are both energizing at the
> same time instead of alternately.
>
> Dave
>
> In a message dated 10/26/2012 2:32:15 PM Central Daylight Time,
> nafzigerg at yahoo.com writes:
>> I've installed the tripod 700 headlights (tr-3) with two relays per
>> headlight,
>> one each for high and low beams.  This includes a red wire power line 
>> from
>> starter solenoid on firewall.  Today I tried the dimmer switch for the
>> first
>> time with no change.  All I have is brights and the lights go out
>> completely
>> when I hit the dimmer.
>> I'm checking into the switch but also wonder about the
>> red power wire and whether that needs to go through the dimmer switch? 
>> Or
>> is
>> this comparable to the front turn signal lights in that I need to reverse
>> the
>> wires to the headlights?
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dixie4.wales at virgin.net
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2013.0.2742 / Virus Database: 2617/5855 - Release Date: 10/26/12

From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Sat Oct 27 04:49:33 2012
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2012 12:49:33 +0200
Subject: [TR] headlights dimmer
In-Reply-To: <06B3DC3A98144F86B29019838E1DB5D1@AdrianPC>
References: <29202.2e783342.3dbc9e48@cs.com>
	<06B3DC3A98144F86B29019838E1DB5D1@AdrianPC>
Message-ID: <CAPK7CFDD9ECVCoY=m3T6xkgdZHMFqaYmsEEHz-Kr+w1C_5PHng@mail.gmail.com>

The original post refers to main beam and dipped beam, to use UK vernacular.

On 10/27/12, Dixie4 <dixie4.wales at virgin.net> wrote:
> Have I missed something here on this thread.
>
> My question is why would someone want to fit a headlamp dimmer?
> Is it not the purpose of headlamps to be as bright as possible to see where
>
> you are going?
> Or is it some local regulation in towns maybe.
> Someone enlighten me or am I just being dim (excuse the double pun).
>
> Adrian TR4A CT 64306 O
> Wales UK.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Dave1massey at cs.com>
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2012 3:17 AM
> Subject: Re: [TR] headlights dimmer
>
>
>>I wouldn't be surprised if you are running both filaments when they are
>> on.
>> How are the relay coils wired up?  The relay coil for the high (main)
>> beam
>> should be powered off of the Blue/White wire and the relay coil for the
>> low
>> (dip)beam should be powered off of the Blue/Red wire.  If both relays are
>> wired to the same blue/something wire then they are both energizing at
>> the
>> same time instead of alternately.
>>
>> Dave
>>
>> In a message dated 10/26/2012 2:32:15 PM Central Daylight Time,
>> nafzigerg at yahoo.com writes:
>>> I've installed the tripod 700 headlights (tr-3) with two relays per
>>> headlight,
>>> one each for high and low beams.  This includes a red wire power line
>>> from
>>> starter solenoid on firewall.  Today I tried the dimmer switch for the
>>> first
>>> time with no change.  All I have is brights and the lights go out
>>> completely
>>> when I hit the dimmer.
>>> I'm checking into the switch but also wonder about the
>>> red power wire and whether that needs to go through the dimmer switch?
>>> Or
>>> is
>>> this comparable to the front turn signal lights in that I need to
>>> reverse
>>> the
>>> wires to the headlights?
>>
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dixie4.wales at virgin.net
>>
>>
>> -----
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> Version: 2013.0.2742 / Virus Database: 2617/5855 - Release Date: 10/26/12
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com

From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk  Sat Oct 27 05:21:49 2012
From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2012 12:21:49 +0100 (BST)
Subject: [TR] headlights dimmer
In-Reply-To: <CAPK7CFDD9ECVCoY=m3T6xkgdZHMFqaYmsEEHz-Kr+w1C_5PHng@mail.gmail.com>
References: <29202.2e783342.3dbc9e48@cs.com>
	<06B3DC3A98144F86B29019838E1DB5D1@AdrianPC>
	<CAPK7CFDD9ECVCoY=m3T6xkgdZHMFqaYmsEEHz-Kr+w1C_5PHng@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1351336909.61256.YahooMailNeo@web29406.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

Hey Don, you've denied the whole Triumph community the opportunity of yet
another (side splitting) 'joke' about Lucas.

Jonmac
________________________________
 From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com>
To: Dixie4 <dixie4.wales at virgin.net> 
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent:
Saturday, 27 October 2012, 11:49
Subject: Re: [TR] headlights dimmer


>The
original post refers to main beam and dipped beam, to use UK vernacular.
>
>On
10/27/12, Dixie4 <dixie4.wales at virgin.net> wrote:
>> Have I missed something
here on this thread.
>>
>> My question is why would someone want to fit a
headlamp dimmer?
>> Is it not the purpose of headlamps to be as bright as
possible to see where
>>
>> you are going?
>> Or is it some local regulation
in towns maybe.
>> Someone enlighten me or am I just being dim (excuse the
double pun).
>>
>> Adrian TR4A CT 64306 O
>> Wales UK.
>>
>> ----- Original
Message -----
>> From: <Dave1massey at cs.com>
>> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2012 3:17 AM
>> Subject: Re: [TR] headlights
dimmer
>>
>>
>>>I wouldn't be surprised if you are running both filaments when
they are
>>> on.
>>> How are the relay coils wired up?  The relay coil for the
high (main)
>>> beam
>>> should be powered off of the Blue/White wire and the
relay coil for the
>>> low
>>> (dip)beam should be powered off of the Blue/Red
wire.  If both relays are
>>> wired to the same blue/something wire then they
are both energizing at
>>> the
>>> same time instead of alternately.
>>>
>>>
Dave
>>>
>>> In a message dated 10/26/2012 2:32:15 PM Central Daylight Time,
>>> nafzigerg at yahoo.com writes:
>>>> I've installed the tripod 700 headlights
(tr-3) with two relays per
>>>> headlight,
>>>> one each for high and low
beams.  This includes a red wire power line
>>>> from
>>>> starter solenoid on
firewall.  Today I tried the dimmer switch for the
>>>> first
>>>> time with
no change.  All I have is brights and the lights go out
>>>> completely
>>>>
when I hit the dimmer.
>>>> I'm checking into the switch but also wonder about
the
>>>> red power wire and whether that needs to go through the dimmer
switch?
>>>> Or
>>>> is
>>>> this comparable to the front turn signal lights
in that I need to
>>>> reverse
>>>> the
>>>> wires to the headlights?
>>>
>>>
** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dixie4.wales at virgin.net
>>>
>>>
>>> -----
>>> No virus found in this message.
>>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>>> Version: 2013.0.2742 / Virus Database: 2617/5855 - Release Date: 10/26/12
>>
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com
>
>**
triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk

From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Sat Oct 27 06:52:11 2012
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2012 14:52:11 +0200
Subject: [TR] headlights dimmer
In-Reply-To: <1351336909.61256.YahooMailNeo@web29406.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
References: <29202.2e783342.3dbc9e48@cs.com>
	<06B3DC3A98144F86B29019838E1DB5D1@AdrianPC>
	<CAPK7CFDD9ECVCoY=m3T6xkgdZHMFqaYmsEEHz-Kr+w1C_5PHng@mail.gmail.com>
	<1351336909.61256.YahooMailNeo@web29406.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAPK7CFAn+GNBDf37JwzH82MkG6sw69s1Jjy+0MFwqMaOEoG1hg@mail.gmail.com>

Nah, John -- nuthin' stops this group!

I'm in the minority, but I kinda like the near-Victorian simplicity of
Lucas electrics. But then, when I really have to get there and back, I
take one of my Toyotas...

On 10/27/12, John Macartney <flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
> Hey Don, you've denied the whole Triumph community the opportunity of yet
> another (side splitting) 'joke' about Lucas.
>
> Jonmac
> ________________________________
>  From: Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com>
> To: Dixie4 <dixie4.wales at virgin.net>
> Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Saturday, 27 October 2012, 11:49
> Subject: Re: [TR] headlights dimmer
>
>
>>The original post refers to main beam and dipped beam, to use UK
>> vernacular.
>>
>>On 10/27/12, Dixie4 <dixie4.wales at virgin.net> wrote:
>>> Have I missed something here on this thread.
>>>
>>> My question is why would someone want to fit a headlamp dimmer?
>>> Is it not the purpose of headlamps to be as bright as possible to see
>>> where
>>>
>>> you are going?
>>> Or is it some local regulation in towns maybe.
>>> Someone enlighten me or am I just being dim (excuse the double pun).
>>>
>>> Adrian TR4A CT 64306 O
>>> Wales UK.
>>>
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> From: <Dave1massey at cs.com>
>>> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>>> Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2012 3:17 AM
>>> Subject: Re: [TR] headlights dimmer
>>>
>>>
>>>>I wouldn't be surprised if you are running both filaments when they are
>>>> on.
>>>> How are the relay coils wired up?  The relay coil for the high (main)
>>>> beam
>>>> should be powered off of the Blue/White wire and the relay coil for the
>>>> low
>>>> (dip)beam should be powered off of the Blue/Red wire.  If both relays
>>>> are
>>>> wired to the same blue/something wire then they are both energizing at
>>>> the
>>>> same time instead of alternately.
>>>>
>>>> Dave
>>>>
>>>> In a message dated 10/26/2012 2:32:15 PM Central Daylight Time,
>>>> nafzigerg at yahoo.com writes:
>>>>> I've installed the tripod 700 headlights (tr-3) with two relays per
>>>>> headlight,
>>>>> one each for high and low beams.  This includes a red wire power line
>>>>> from
>>>>> starter solenoid on firewall.  Today I tried the dimmer switch for the
>>>>> first
>>>>> time with no change.  All I have is brights and the lights go out
>>>>> completely
>>>>> when I hit the dimmer.
>>>>> I'm checking into the switch but also wonder about the
>>>>> red power wire and whether that needs to go through the dimmer switch?
>>>>> Or
>>>>> is
>>>>> this comparable to the front turn signal lights in that I need to
>>>>> reverse
>>>>> the
>>>>> wires to the headlights?
>>>>
>>>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>>>
>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dixie4.wales at virgin.net
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> -----
>>>> No virus found in this message.
>>>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>>>> Version: 2013.0.2742 / Virus Database: 2617/5855 - Release Date:
>>>> 10/26/12
>>>
>>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com
>>
>>** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk

From davewillner at pa.net  Sat Oct 27 07:55:23 2012
From: davewillner at pa.net (davewillner)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2012 09:55:23 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 oil filter canister question
Message-ID: <C21C0AA32BEE41DF8847641F40BC8BAB@home45dd83c8be>

I just changed the oil and filter in my 3, I have the original Percolator head
still in place. I now have a small constant stream of oil leaking out the
bottom hole where the bolt goes in when its running, not up at the top where
the typical seal problems occur. I've never taken this bolt/washer/spring
assembly apart (35 years) and wondering if they typically need a rebuild with
fresh seals at some point?

Also the long hex bolt has alway had a large 1" cupped metal washer under the
hex head on the outside, just wondering if anyone else has that or maybe its
just a DPO "enhancement?" All the exploded parts drawings I've seen don't show
the washer...Txs

Dave Willner
Stroudsburg PA
59 TR3A
70 MGB
70 BSA 441 VS

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Oct 27 08:22:40 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2012 07:22:40 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 oil filter canister question
In-Reply-To: <C21C0AA32BEE41DF8847641F40BC8BAB@home45dd83c8be>
References: <C21C0AA32BEE41DF8847641F40BC8BAB@home45dd83c8be>
Message-ID: <042f01cdb44e$85d4b190$0601a8c0@randall>

The oil filter housings are not all the same, the later ones did have a
large "washer" to reinforce the end of the canister.  It is shown in the
illustration in "Practical Hints" although I'm guessing that it was supplied
only as part of the canister since it's not listed in the parts catalogs.

Yes, the seal has to be replaced from time to time.

-- Randall  

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sat Oct 27 09:40:18 2012
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2012 11:40:18 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] headlights dimmer
Message-ID: <24275.5e605c7e.3dbd5a62@cs.com>

The headlam dimmer is standard equipment.  Some call it the wiring harness.

Dave

In a message dated 10/27/2012 5:44:31 AM Central Daylight Time, 
dixie4.wales at virgin.net writes: 
> Have I missed something here on this thread.
> 
> My question is why would someone want to fit a headlamp dimmer?
> Is it not the purpose of headlamps to be as bright as possible to see 
> where 
> you are going?
> Or is it some local regulation in towns maybe.
> Someone enlighten me or am I just being dim (excuse the double pun).

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sat Oct 27 09:42:03 2012
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2012 11:42:03 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] headlights dimmer
Message-ID: <24388.208a6761.3dbd5aca@cs.com>

Doesn't stop me.  I'm the master of the too late punch line.

Dave

In a message dated 10/27/2012 6:29:47 AM Central Daylight Time, 
flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk writes: 
> Hey Don, you've denied the whole Triumph community the opportunity of yet
> another (side splitting) 'joke' about Lucas.

From wbeech at flash.net  Sat Oct 27 12:31:18 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2012 13:31:18 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 oil filter canister question
In-Reply-To: <C21C0AA32BEE41DF8847641F40BC8BAB@home45dd83c8be>
References: <C21C0AA32BEE41DF8847641F40BC8BAB@home45dd83c8be>
Message-ID: <BA0E9BF7B8D645118DD8CEE07A7B7884@bboffice>

Dave,
There is a seal for the end of the canister, yours may have finally cracked.
Yes, there is a large washer behind the hex head.  Sending a picture
off-line.

Or, are you sure the oil is not running down the bottom of the can from the
o-ring at the head. I have mis-aligned this once/twice before.

It can only be those to area, cheap fix.

Bill


Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" (in rehab)
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow"
M.Andretti

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of davewillner
Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2012 8:55 AM
To: 'Triumph List'
Subject: [TR] TR3 oil filter canister question

I just changed the oil and filter in my 3, I have the original Percolator
head still in place. I now have a small constant stream of oil leaking out
the bottom hole where the bolt goes in when its running, not up at the top
where the typical seal problems occur. I've never taken this
bolt/washer/spring assembly apart (35 years) and wondering if they typically
need a rebuild with fresh seals at some point?

Also the long hex bolt has alway had a large 1" cupped metal washer under
the hex head on the outside, just wondering if anyone else has that or maybe
its just a DPO "enhancement?" All the exploded parts drawings I've seen
don't show the washer...Txs

Dave Willner
Stroudsburg PA
59 TR3A
70 MGB
70 BSA 441 VS

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From dixie4.wales at virgin.net  Sat Oct 27 14:26:02 2012
From: dixie4.wales at virgin.net (Dixie4)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2012 21:26:02 +0100
Subject: [TR] headlights dimmer
In-Reply-To: <CAPK7CFDD9ECVCoY=m3T6xkgdZHMFqaYmsEEHz-Kr+w1C_5PHng@mail.gmail.com>
References: <29202.2e783342.3dbc9e48@cs.com><06B3DC3A98144F86B29019838E1DB5D1@AdrianPC>
	<CAPK7CFDD9ECVCoY=m3T6xkgdZHMFqaYmsEEHz-Kr+w1C_5PHng@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <D028B334F65E4A4E80AF65FE495E0067@AdrianPC>

Well they say you learn something new everyday.

After being on this predominantly North American Triumph list for over ten 
years I thought I had heard all the different terms for various car items. 
For instance trunks, hoods, rockers and many more which are so alien to the 
Brits. I have now added dimmer switch to my vocabulary.

Thanks to all who replied enlightening me.

Adrian

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Don Hiscock" <don.hiscock at gmail.com>
To: "Dixie4" <dixie4.wales at virgin.net>
Cc: <Dave1massey at cs.com>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2012 11:49 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] headlights dimmer


> The original post refers to main beam and dipped beam, to use UK 
> vernacular.
>
> On 10/27/12, Dixie4 <dixie4.wales at virgin.net> wrote:
>> Have I missed something here on this thread.
>>
>> My question is why would someone want to fit a headlamp dimmer?
>> Is it not the purpose of headlamps to be as bright as possible to see 
>> where
>>
>> you are going?
>> Or is it some local regulation in towns maybe.
>> Someone enlighten me or am I just being dim (excuse the double pun).
>>
>> Adrian TR4A CT 64306 O
>> Wales UK.
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: <Dave1massey at cs.com>
>> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2012 3:17 AM
>> Subject: Re: [TR] headlights dimmer
>>
>>
>>>I wouldn't be surprised if you are running both filaments when they are
>>> on.
>>> How are the relay coils wired up?  The relay coil for the high (main)
>>> beam
>>> should be powered off of the Blue/White wire and the relay coil for the
>>> low
>>> (dip)beam should be powered off of the Blue/Red wire.  If both relays 
>>> are
>>> wired to the same blue/something wire then they are both energizing at
>>> the
>>> same time instead of alternately.
>>>
>>> Dave
>>>
>>> In a message dated 10/26/2012 2:32:15 PM Central Daylight Time,
>>> nafzigerg at yahoo.com writes:
>>>> I've installed the tripod 700 headlights (tr-3) with two relays per
>>>> headlight,
>>>> one each for high and low beams.  This includes a red wire power line
>>>> from
>>>> starter solenoid on firewall.  Today I tried the dimmer switch for the
>>>> first
>>>> time with no change.  All I have is brights and the lights go out
>>>> completely
>>>> when I hit the dimmer.
>>>> I'm checking into the switch but also wonder about the
>>>> red power wire and whether that needs to go through the dimmer switch?
>>>> Or
>>>> is
>>>> this comparable to the front turn signal lights in that I need to
>>>> reverse
>>>> the
>>>> wires to the headlights?
>>>
>>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dixie4.wales at virgin.net
>>>
>>>
>>> -----
>>> No virus found in this message.
>>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>>> Version: 2013.0.2742 / Virus Database: 2617/5855 - Release Date: 
>>> 10/26/12
>>
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com
>>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2013.0.2742 / Virus Database: 2617/5855 - Release Date: 10/26/12

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Sat Oct 27 15:59:35 2012
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2012 17:59:35 -0400
Subject: [TR] headlights dimmer
In-Reply-To: <D028B334F65E4A4E80AF65FE495E0067@AdrianPC>
References: <29202.2e783342.3dbc9e48@cs.com><06B3DC3A98144F86B29019838E1DB5D1@AdrianPC>
	<CAPK7CFDD9ECVCoY=m3T6xkgdZHMFqaYmsEEHz-Kr+w1C_5PHng@mail.gmail.com>
	<D028B334F65E4A4E80AF65FE495E0067@AdrianPC>
Message-ID: <014401cdb48e$5b536480$11fa2d80$@uprichard.net>

OK, so we had boots, bonnets, outer sills and more, but can you remind me
what I called the dimmer switch in my previous (Ireland, Scotland) life ?

Andrew Uprichard
29 years in the UK, 25 in the USA

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dixie4
Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2012 4:26 PM
To: Don Hiscock
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] headlights dimmer

Well they say you learn something new everyday.

After being on this predominantly North American Triumph list for over ten
years I thought I had heard all the different terms for various car items. 
For instance trunks, hoods, rockers and many more which are so alien to the
Brits. I have now added dimmer switch to my vocabulary.

Thanks to all who replied enlightening me.

Adrian

----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Hiscock" <don.hiscock at gmail.com>
To: "Dixie4" <dixie4.wales at virgin.net>
Cc: <Dave1massey at cs.com>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2012 11:49 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] headlights dimmer


> The original post refers to main beam and dipped beam, to use UK 
> vernacular.
>
> On 10/27/12, Dixie4 <dixie4.wales at virgin.net> wrote:
>> Have I missed something here on this thread.
>>
>> My question is why would someone want to fit a headlamp dimmer?
>> Is it not the purpose of headlamps to be as bright as possible to see 
>> where
>>
>> you are going?
>> Or is it some local regulation in towns maybe.
>> Someone enlighten me or am I just being dim (excuse the double pun).
>>
>> Adrian TR4A CT 64306 O
>> Wales UK.
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: <Dave1massey at cs.com>
>> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2012 3:17 AM
>> Subject: Re: [TR] headlights dimmer
>>
>>
>>>I wouldn't be surprised if you are running both filaments when they are
>>> on.
>>> How are the relay coils wired up?  The relay coil for the high (main)
>>> beam
>>> should be powered off of the Blue/White wire and the relay coil for the
>>> low
>>> (dip)beam should be powered off of the Blue/Red wire.  If both relays 
>>> are
>>> wired to the same blue/something wire then they are both energizing at
>>> the
>>> same time instead of alternately.
>>>
>>> Dave
>>>
>>> In a message dated 10/26/2012 2:32:15 PM Central Daylight Time,
>>> nafzigerg at yahoo.com writes:
>>>> I've installed the tripod 700 headlights (tr-3) with two relays per
>>>> headlight,
>>>> one each for high and low beams.  This includes a red wire power line
>>>> from
>>>> starter solenoid on firewall.  Today I tried the dimmer switch for the
>>>> first
>>>> time with no change.  All I have is brights and the lights go out
>>>> completely
>>>> when I hit the dimmer.
>>>> I'm checking into the switch but also wonder about the
>>>> red power wire and whether that needs to go through the dimmer switch?
>>>> Or
>>>> is
>>>> this comparable to the front turn signal lights in that I need to
>>>> reverse
>>>> the
>>>> wires to the headlights?
>>>
>>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dixie4.wales at virgin.net
>>>
>>>
>>> -----
>>> No virus found in this message.
>>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>>> Version: 2013.0.2742 / Virus Database: 2617/5855 - Release Date: 
>>> 10/26/12
>>
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com
>>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2013.0.2742 / Virus Database: 2617/5855 - Release Date: 10/26/12

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From trdoctor at aol.com  Sat Oct 27 16:14:28 2012
From: trdoctor at aol.com (Sam)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2012 17:14:28 -0500
Subject: [TR] Satinless Steel Brake Hoses
Message-ID: <D7EB2FA9-5FA8-487B-BC32-E10736F7B55B@aol.com>

Good day to all,
I recently have had problems with my brake system on my '72 TR6.  The car
would stop just fine but, when waiting at a light, the pedal would go to the
floor.  Without any external leaks, in my experience, that lead to a
replacement of the brake master.  I procured one from Apple Hydraulics
(without the reservoir (sp)), cleaned the existing reservoir with brake
cleaner safe for plastics, and installed it after bench bleeding without any
problems.  At the same time I was going to change the flexible brake lines out
with braided stainless hoses.  I changed these lines in ~'95 when I got the
car so I figured I'd change them and it would be a nice upgrade.  Long story
short, they don't fit.  I tried to change the LF and the threaded portion of
the hose that attaches to the ridged line at the caliper won't reach.  Anyone
else had this problem?  I really don't like to try to bend old line especially
since the rubber ones fit just fine.  I ended up taking a real good look at
the rubber hoses and there were on cracks and they were still flexible so I
put it back together and am ready to bleed the system.
TIA,

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Oct 27 16:42:16 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2012 15:42:16 -0700
Subject: [TR] headlights dimmer
In-Reply-To: <014401cdb48e$5b536480$11fa2d80$@uprichard.net>
References: <29202.2e783342.3dbc9e48@cs.com><06B3DC3A98144F86B29019838E1DB5D1@AdrianPC><CAPK7CFDD9ECVCoY=m3T6xkgdZHMFqaYmsEEHz-Kr+w1C_5PHng@mail.gmail.com><D028B334F65E4A4E80AF65FE495E0067@AdrianPC>
	<014401cdb48e$5b536480$11fa2d80$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <049f01cdb494$50f73470$0601a8c0@randall>

> OK, so we had boots, bonnets, outer sills and more, but can 
> you remind me
> what I called the dimmer switch in my previous (Ireland, 
> Scotland) life ?

Dipper switch, I believe.  At least that is what is in the owner's manual.

-- Randall  

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Sat Oct 27 17:41:47 2012
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2012 19:41:47 -0400
Subject: [TR] headlights dimmer
In-Reply-To: <049f01cdb494$50f73470$0601a8c0@randall>
References: <29202.2e783342.3dbc9e48@cs.com><06B3DC3A98144F86B29019838E1DB5D1@AdrianPC><CAPK7CFDD9ECVCoY=m3T6xkgdZHMFqaYmsEEHz-Kr+w1C_5PHng@mail.gmail.com><D028B334F65E4A4E80AF65FE495E0067@AdrianPC>
	<014401cdb48e$5b536480$11fa2d80$@uprichard.net>
	<049f01cdb494$50f73470$0601a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <014d01cdb49c$a3efec00$ebcfc400$@uprichard.net>

Ah yes, the dip switch.  Not to be confused with the American term for a
previous dumb owner - the dipstick.  Thank you, Randall (and others) - I
really had forgotten.

Andrew

-----Original Message-----
From: Randall [mailto:TR3driver at ca.rr.com] 
Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2012 6:42 PM
To: 'Andrew Uprichard'
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] headlights dimmer

> OK, so we had boots, bonnets, outer sills and more, but can you remind 
> me what I called the dimmer switch in my previous (Ireland,
> Scotland) life ?

Dipper switch, I believe.  At least that is what is in the owner's manual.

-- Randall  

From allegrorover at mac.com  Sat Oct 27 17:47:21 2012
From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2012 18:47:21 -0500
Subject: [TR] headlights dimmer
In-Reply-To: <014d01cdb49c$a3efec00$ebcfc400$@uprichard.net>
References: <29202.2e783342.3dbc9e48@cs.com>
	<06B3DC3A98144F86B29019838E1DB5D1@AdrianPC>
	<CAPK7CFDD9ECVCoY=m3T6xkgdZHMFqaYmsEEHz-Kr+w1C_5PHng@mail.gmail.com>
	<D028B334F65E4A4E80AF65FE495E0067@AdrianPC>
	<014401cdb48e$5b536480$11fa2d80$@uprichard.net>
	<049f01cdb494$50f73470$0601a8c0@randall>
	<014d01cdb49c$a3efec00$ebcfc400$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <D61F4C3D-AAEB-496F-972F-DB5ABD4ADD5C@mac.com>

Wow you guys are really tough on previous owners!!
I hope I never become one of them, just the guy who buys a car from the dipstick......
Tony Cascio en route to VTR

Sent from my iPad

On Oct 27, 2012, at 6:41 PM, Andrew Uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net> wrote:

> Ah yes, the dip switch.  Not to be confused with the American term for a
> previous dumb owner - the dipstick.  Thank you, Randall (and others) - I
> really had forgotten.
> 
> Andrew
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Randall [mailto:TR3driver at ca.rr.com] 
> Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2012 6:42 PM
> To: 'Andrew Uprichard'
> Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: [TR] headlights dimmer
> 
>> OK, so we had boots, bonnets, outer sills and more, but can you remind 
>> me what I called the dimmer switch in my previous (Ireland,
>> Scotland) life ?
> 
> Dipper switch, I believe.  At least that is what is in the owner's manual.
> 
> -- Randall  
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/allegrorover at mac.com

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Sat Oct 27 18:38:57 2012
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh)
Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2012 17:38:57 -0700
Subject: [TR] headlights dimmer
In-Reply-To: <014401cdb48e$5b536480$11fa2d80$@uprichard.net>
References: <29202.2e783342.3dbc9e48@cs.com><06B3DC3A98144F86B29019838E1DB5D1@AdrianPC>
	<CAPK7CFDD9ECVCoY=m3T6xkgdZHMFqaYmsEEHz-Kr+w1C_5PHng@mail.gmail.com>
	<D028B334F65E4A4E80AF65FE495E0067@AdrianPC>
	<014401cdb48e$5b536480$11fa2d80$@uprichard.net>
Message-ID: <BD4C01A4-FB4F-4905-B26E-5FFF1A7BFEA1@comcast.net>

Dipper ???


On Oct 27, 2012, at 2:59 PM, "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard at uprichard.net>
wrote:

> OK, so we had boots, bonnets, outer sills and more, but can you remind me
> what I called the dimmer switch in my previous (Ireland, Scotland) life ?
>
> Andrew Uprichard
> 29 years in the UK, 25 in the USA
>
>


"Life is too short to drive boring cars"

Bill Pugh
1957 TR3 "Casper"p;
TS16765L
Wallace, CA
anabil007 at comcast.net

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Oct 28 06:18:34 2012
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2012 08:18:34 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Satinless Steel Brake Hoses
Message-ID: <9378.5bca56cc.3dbe7c9a@cs.com>

I installed Stainless hoses back in '96 and I had no such issues.  The 
length was just fine.  I think you may have revceived the wrong parts.  If you 
lay the two parts ont on a bench is there an appearent difference in length?

Dave

In a message dated 10/27/2012 5:22:40 PM Central Daylight Time, 
trdoctor at aol.com writes: 
> Good day to all,
> I recently have had problems with my brake system on my '72 TR6.  The car
> would stop just fine but, when waiting at a light, the pedal would go to 
> the
> floor.  Without any external leaks, in my experience, that lead to a
> replacement of the brake master.  I procured one from Apple Hydraulics
> (without the reservoir (sp)), cleaned the existing reservoir with brake
> cleaner safe for plastics, and installed it after bench bleeding without 
> any
> problems.  At the same time I was going to change the flexible brake lines 
> out
> with braided stainless hoses.  I changed these lines in ~'95 when I got 
> the
> car so I figured I'd change them and it would be a nice upgrade.  Long 
> story
> short, they don't fit.  I tried to change the LF and the threaded portion 
> of
> the hose that attaches to the ridged line at the caliper won't reach.  
> Anyone
> else had this problem?  I really don't like to try to bend old line 
> especially
> since the rubber ones fit just fine.  I ended up taking a real good look 
> at
> the rubber hoses and there were on cracks and they were still flexible so 
> I
> put it back together and am ready to bleed the system.
> TIA,

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Sun Oct 28 06:43:01 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2012 08:43:01 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] VTR CONVENTION-NEW REPAIR PANELS AND SEAT CONVERSION KITS
Message-ID: <8CF8320E6D50158-9F0-49C97@webmail-d144.sysops.aol.com>

 If you are at VTR and would like to see new front fender repair panels for
TR4 and TR6 and the Miata seat conversion adapters, we will be at the
Convention on Sunday and Monday.                  Look for the AMBRO-TRIUMPH.

Just hanging out......see more of our stuff donated to Texas Triumphs SILENT
AUCTION.   One will be TR6 carb heat shield as featured on SPEED CHANNEL's
"HARD PARTS"



Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com

From trdoctor at aol.com  Sun Oct 28 12:53:17 2012
From: trdoctor at aol.com (Sam)
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2012 13:53:17 -0500
Subject: [TR] Satinless Steel Brake Hoses
Message-ID: <B780C19F-D814-41A2-9E65-2C92AE83EA84@aol.com>

They are ~ the same length except for the threaded portion that attaches to
the rigid steel line to the caliper.
Sam
<I installed Stainless hoses back in '96 and I had no such issues.  The
length was just fine.  I think you may have revceived the wrong parts.  If you
lay the two parts ont on a bench is there an appearent difference in length?>

From trdoctor at aol.com  Sun Oct 28 14:13:09 2012
From: trdoctor at aol.com (Sam)
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2012 15:13:09 -0500
Subject: [TR] [Fot] Satinless Steel Brake Hoses
In-Reply-To: <CAMJWJcE0_Gj5mgAMO99p04wFJiow5S3AEGvLgfN_e=+wrmJ4UQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <D7EB2FA9-5FA8-487B-BC32-E10736F7B55B@aol.com>
	<CAMJWJcHJOCpFK0FR5vFX4VKTFtCfxjVb_2fSb+6TFqLy8SK5Dw@mail.gmail.com>
	<9E5AFC6C-C7CE-43B8-B884-11BF0C4ED962@aol.com>
	<CAMJWJcE0_Gj5mgAMO99p04wFJiow5S3AEGvLgfN_e=+wrmJ4UQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <183197DA-F760-42E4-A231-6BE4FA30EF72@aol.com>

Problem solved.  It was the master cylinder.  Pedal holds firm at a stop.  I
might need to re-bleed later since I'm using silicone fluif but it is
roadworthy once again.
On Oct 28, 2012, at 1:28 PM, John Styduhar <johnstydo at gmail.com> wrote:

> It may not be the one-way booster valve but something inside the booster,
such as a seal or O-ring.
>
> On Sat, Oct 27, 2012 at 8:06 PM, Sam <trdoctor at aol.com> wrote:
> No.  That has never been my experience.  The idle does not change with the
foot on or off the pedal.
> Sam
>
> On Oct 27, 2012, at 5:38 PM, John Styduhar <johnstydo at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Did you check the brake vacuum boster for air leaks in that unit.?  That
would cause the pedal to drop.
>>
>> On Sat, Oct 27, 2012 at 6:14 PM, Sam <trdoctor at aol.com> wrote:
>> Good day to all,
>> I recently have had problems with my brake system on my '72 TR6.  The car
>> would stop just fine but, when waiting at a light, the pedal would go to
the
>> floor.  Without any external leaks, in my experience, that lead to a
>> replacement of the brake master.  I procured one from Apple Hydraulics
>> (without the reservoir (sp)), cleaned the existing reservoir with brake
>> cleaner safe for plastics, and installed it after bench bleeding without
any
>> problems.  At the same time I was going to change the flexible brake lines
out
>> with braided stainless hoses.  I changed these lines in ~'95 when I got
the
>> car so I figured I'd change them and it would be a nice upgrade.  Long
story
>> short, they don't fit.  I tried to change the LF and the threaded portion
of
>> the hose that attaches to the ridged line at the caliper won't reach.
Anyone
>> else had this problem?  I really don't like to try to bend old line
especially
>> since the rubber ones fit just fine.  I ended up taking a real good look
at
>> the rubber hoses and there were on cracks and they were still flexible so
I
>> put it back together and am ready to bleed the system.
>> TIA,
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/johnstydo at gmail.com

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Oct 28 17:09:36 2012
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2012 19:09:36 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Satinless Steel Brake Hoses
Message-ID: <11568.2e390333.3dbf1530@cs.com>

Hmm, will it fit the other way 'round?

In a message dated 10/28/2012 1:53:18 PM Central Daylight Time, 
trdoctor at aol.com writes: 
> They are ~ the same length except for the threaded portion that attaches 
> to the rigid steel line to the caliper.
> Sam
> <i installed="" stainless="" hoses="" back="" in="" '96="" and="" i="" 
> had="" no="" such="" issue="" the="">

From mmarr at notwires.com  Sun Oct 28 20:46:40 2012
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2012 21:46:40 -0500
Subject: [TR] headlights dimmer
In-Reply-To: <BD4C01A4-FB4F-4905-B26E-5FFF1A7BFEA1@comcast.net>
References: <29202.2e783342.3dbc9e48@cs.com><06B3DC3A98144F86B29019838E1DB5D1@AdrianPC><CAPK7CFDD9ECVCoY=m3T6xkgdZHMFqaYmsEEHz-Kr+w1C_5PHng@mail.gmail.com><D028B334F65E4A4E80AF65FE495E0067@AdrianPC><014401cdb48e$5b536480$11fa2d80$@uprichard.net>
	<BD4C01A4-FB4F-4905-B26E-5FFF1A7BFEA1@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <E81A318CE4ED4CD4BF7A46436A0D6E09@PhiSchLSpare101>

Dipswitch.

--------------------------------------------------
From: "William Pugh" <anabil007 at comcast.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2012 7:38 PM
To: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard at uprichard.net>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] headlights dimmer

> Dipper ???
>
>
> On Oct 27, 2012, at 2:59 PM, "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard at uprichard.net>
> wrote:
>
>> OK, so we had boots, bonnets, outer sills and more, but can you remind me
>> what I called the dimmer switch in my previous (Ireland, Scotland) life ?
>>
>> Andrew Uprichard
>> 29 years in the UK, 25 in the USA
>>
>>
>
>
> "Life is too short to drive boring cars"
>
> Bill Pugh
> 1957 TR3 "Casper"p;
> TS16765L
> Wallace, CA
> anabil007 at comcast.net
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mmarr at notwires.com 

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Mon Oct 29 09:45:44 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 08:45:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] headlights dimmer
In-Reply-To: <E81A318CE4ED4CD4BF7A46436A0D6E09@PhiSchLSpare101>
References: <29202.2e783342.3dbc9e48@cs.com><06B3DC3A98144F86B29019838E1DB5D1@AdrianPC><CAPK7CFDD9ECVCoY=m3T6xkgdZHMFqaYmsEEHz-Kr+w1C_5PHng@mail.gmail.com><D028B334F65E4A4E80AF65FE495E0067@AdrianPC><014401cdb48e$5b536480$11fa2d80$@uprichard.net>
	<BD4C01A4-FB4F-4905-B26E-5FFF1A7BFEA1@comcast.net>
	<E81A318CE4ED4CD4BF7A46436A0D6E09@PhiSchLSpare101>
Message-ID: <1351525544.87390.YahooMailNeo@web120001.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

I have a friend by that name !!!
Do you know him?
Frank


From: Michael Marr <mmarr at notwires.com>
To: William Pugh <anabil007 at comcast.net>; Andrew Uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net> 
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2012 7:46 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] headlights dimmer

Dipswitch.

--------------------------------------------------
From: "William Pugh" <anabil007 at comcast.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2012 7:38 PM
To: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard at uprichard.net>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] headlights dimmer

> Dipper ???
>
>
> On Oct 27, 2012, at 2:59 PM, "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard at uprichard.net>
> wrote:
>
>> OK, so we had boots, bonnets, outer sills and more, but can you remind me
>> what I called the dimmer switch in my previous (Ireland, Scotland) life ?
>>
>> Andrew Uprichard
>> 29 years in the UK, 25 in the USA
>>
>>
>
>
> "Life is too short to drive boring cars"
>
> Bill Pugh
> 1957 TR3 "Casper"p;
> TS16765L
> Wallace, CA
> anabil007 at comcast.net
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mmarr at notwires.com 

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com

From mmarr at notwires.com  Mon Oct 29 10:18:46 2012
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 11:18:46 -0500
Subject: [TR] headlights dimmer
In-Reply-To: <1351525544.87390.YahooMailNeo@web120001.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <29202.2e783342.3dbc9e48@cs.com><06B3DC3A98144F86B29019838E1DB5D1@AdrianPC><CAPK7CFDD9ECVCoY=m3T6xkgdZHMFqaYmsEEHz-Kr+w1C_5PHng@mail.gmail.com><D028B334F65E4A4E80AF65FE495E0067@AdrianPC><014401cdb48e$5b536480$11fa2d80$@uprichard.net>
	<BD4C01A4-FB4F-4905-B26E-5FFF1A7BFEA1@comcast.net>
	<E81A318CE4ED4CD4BF7A46436A0D6E09@PhiSchLSpare101>
	<1351525544.87390.YahooMailNeo@web120001.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <815023AAE59C4FEFADA0501677DA5630@PhiSchLSpare101>

You know my son-in-law?  Oh, wait a minute, he is dips**t, not dipswitch...

Mike


From: Frank Fisher
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2012 10:45 AM
To: Michael Marr ; William Pugh ; Andrew Uprichard
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] headlights dimmer


I have a friend by that name !!!
Do you know him?
Frank



From: Michael Marr <mmarr at notwires.com>
To: William Pugh <anabil007 at comcast.net>; Andrew Uprichard
<auprichard at uprichard.net>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2012 7:46 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] headlights dimmer


Dipswitch.

--------------------------------------------------
From: "William Pugh" <anabil007 at comcast.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2012 7:38 PM
To: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard at uprichard.net>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] headlights dimmer

> Dipper ???
>
>
> On Oct 27, 2012, at 2:59 PM, "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard at uprichard.net>
> wrote:
>
>> OK, so we had boots, bonnets, outer sills and more, but can you remind me
>> what I called the dimmer switch in my previous (Ireland, Scotland) life ?
>>
>> Andrew Uprichard
>> 29 years in the UK, 25 in the USA
>>
>>
>
>
> "Life is too short to drive boring cars"
>
> Bill Pugh
> 1957 TR3 "Casper"p;
> TS16765L
> Wallace, CA
> anabil007 at comcast.net
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mmarr at notwires.com

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com

From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk  Mon Oct 29 10:30:34 2012
From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 16:30:34 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] headlights dimmer
In-Reply-To: <815023AAE59C4FEFADA0501677DA5630@PhiSchLSpare101>
References: <29202.2e783342.3dbc9e48@cs.com><06B3DC3A98144F86B29019838E1DB5D1@AdrianPC><CAPK7CFDD9ECVCoY=m3T6xkgdZHMFqaYmsEEHz-Kr+w1C_5PHng@mail.gmail.com><D028B334F65E4A4E80AF65FE495E0067@AdrianPC><014401cdb48e$5b536480$11fa2d80$@uprichard.net>
	<BD4C01A4-FB4F-4905-B26E-5FFF1A7BFEA1@comcast.net>
	<E81A318CE4ED4CD4BF7A46436A0D6E09@PhiSchLSpare101>
	<1351525544.87390.YahooMailNeo@web120001.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<815023AAE59C4FEFADA0501677DA5630@PhiSchLSpare101>
Message-ID: <1351528234.16299.YahooMailNeo@web29406.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

If we're into Brit Brit vernacular, deprecating terminology for people could
employ terms such as "dipstick" or being "a 99 carat plonker"

Jonmac
________________________________
 From: Michael Marr <mmarr at notwires.com>
To:
Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>; William Pugh <anabil007 at comcast.net>;
Andrew Uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net> 
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, 29 October 2012, 16:18
Subject: Re: [TR] headlights dimmer
>You know my son-in-law?  Oh, wait a minute, he is dips**t, not dipswitch...
>
>Mike
>
>
>From: Frank Fisher
>Sent: Monday, October 29, 2012 10:45 AM
>To:
Michael Marr ; William Pugh ; Andrew Uprichard
>Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: [TR] headlights dimmer
>
>
>I have a friend by that name !!!
>Do
you know him?
>Frank
>
>
>
>From: Michael Marr <mmarr at notwires.com>
>To:
William Pugh <anabil007 at comcast.net>; Andrew Uprichard
><auprichard at uprichard.net>
>Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
>Sent: Sunday,
October 28, 2012 7:46 PM
>Subject: Re: [TR] headlights dimmer
>
>
>Dipswitch.
>
>--------------------------------------------------
>From: "William Pugh"
<anabil007 at comcast.net>
>Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2012 7:38 PM
>To: "Andrew
Uprichard" <auprichard at uprichard.net>
>Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>Subject:
Re: [TR] headlights dimmer
>
>> Dipper ???
>>
>>
>> On Oct 27, 2012, at 2:59
PM, "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard at uprichard.net>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> OK, so we
had boots, bonnets, outer sills and more, but can you remind me
>>> what I
called the dimmer switch in my previous (Ireland, Scotland) life ?
>>>
>>>
Andrew Uprichard
>>> 29 years in the UK, 25 in the USA
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> "Life
is too short to drive boring cars"
>>
>> Bill Pugh
>> 1957 TR3 "Casper"p;
>>
TS16765L
>> Wallace, CA
>> anabil007 at comcast.net
>>
>> **
triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mmarr at notwires.com
>
>**
triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com
>
>**
triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
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>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Mon Oct 29 10:35:18 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 09:35:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] headlights dimmer
In-Reply-To: <1351528234.16299.YahooMailNeo@web29406.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
References: <29202.2e783342.3dbc9e48@cs.com><06B3DC3A98144F86B29019838E1DB5D1@AdrianPC><CAPK7CFDD9ECVCoY=m3T6xkgdZHMFqaYmsEEHz-Kr+w1C_5PHng@mail.gmail.com><D028B334F65E4A4E80AF65FE495E0067@AdrianPC><014401cdb48e$5b536480$11fa2d80$@uprichard.net>
	<BD4C01A4-FB4F-4905-B26E-5FFF1A7BFEA1@comcast.net>
	<E81A318CE4ED4CD4BF7A46436A0D6E09@PhiSchLSpare101>
	<1351525544.87390.YahooMailNeo@web120001.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<815023AAE59C4FEFADA0501677DA5630@PhiSchLSpare101>
	<1351528234.16299.YahooMailNeo@web29406.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1351528518.47942.YahooMailNeo@web120006.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

for some reason im getting the giggles when the british TV shows im getting
have some one proclaim "tosser"
old but not used a lot here in the US

From:
John Macartney <flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk>
To: Michael Marr
<mmarr at notwires.com>; Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>; William Pugh
<anabil007 at comcast.net>; Andrew Uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net> 
Cc:
"triumphs at autox.team.net" <triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Monday, October 29,
2012 9:30 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] headlights dimmer


If we're into Brit Brit
vernacular, deprecating terminology for people could employ terms such as
"dipstick" or being "a 99 carat plonker"

JonmacFrom: Michael Marr
<mmarr at notwires.com>
To: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>; William Pugh
<anabil007 at comcast.net>; Andrew Uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net> 
Cc:
triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Monday, 29 October 2012, 16:18
Subject: Re:
[TR] headlights dimmer


>You know my son-in-law?  Oh, wait a minute, he is
dips**t, not dipswitch...
>
>Mike
>
>
>From: Frank Fisher
>Sent: Monday,
October 29, 2012 10:45 AM
>To: Michael Marr ; William Pugh ; Andrew Uprichard
>Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: [TR] headlights dimmer
>
>
>I have
a friend by that name !!!
>Do you know him?
>Frank
>
>
>
>From: Michael Marr
<mmarr at notwires.com>
>To: William Pugh <anabil007 at comcast.net>; Andrew
Uprichard
><auprichard at uprichard.net>
>Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
>Sent:
Sunday, October 28, 2012 7:46 PM
>Subject: Re: [TR] headlights dimmer
>
>
>Dipswitch.
>
>--------------------------------------------------
>From:
"William Pugh" <anabil007 at comcast.net>
>Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2012 7:38
PM
>To: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard at uprichard.net>
>Cc:
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: [TR] headlights dimmer
>
>> Dipper ???
>>
>>
>> On Oct 27, 2012, at 2:59 PM, "Andrew Uprichard"
<auprichard at uprichard.net>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> OK, so we had boots, bonnets,
outer sills and more, but can you remind me
>>> what I called the dimmer
switch in my previous (Ireland, Scotland) life ?
>>>
>>> Andrew Uprichard
>>>
29 years in the UK, 25 in the USA
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> "Life is too short to drive
boring cars"
>>
>> Bill Pugh
>> 1957 TR3 "Casper"p;
>> TS16765L
>> Wallace, CA
>> anabil007 at comcast.net
>>
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mmarr at notwires.com
>
>**
triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com
>
>**
triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk

From mmarr at notwires.com  Mon Oct 29 11:11:04 2012
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 12:11:04 -0500
Subject: [TR] headlights dimmer
In-Reply-To: <1351528518.47942.YahooMailNeo@web120006.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <29202.2e783342.3dbc9e48@cs.com><06B3DC3A98144F86B29019838E1DB5D1@AdrianPC><CAPK7CFDD9ECVCoY=m3T6xkgdZHMFqaYmsEEHz-Kr+w1C_5PHng@mail.gmail.com><D028B334F65E4A4E80AF65FE495E0067@AdrianPC><014401cdb48e$5b536480$11fa2d80$@uprichard.net>
	<BD4C01A4-FB4F-4905-B26E-5FFF1A7BFEA1@comcast.net>
	<E81A318CE4ED4CD4BF7A46436A0D6E09@PhiSchLSpare101>
	<1351525544.87390.YahooMailNeo@web120001.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<815023AAE59C4FEFADA0501677DA5630@PhiSchLSpare101>
	<1351528234.16299.YahooMailNeo@web29406.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
	<1351528518.47942.YahooMailNeo@web120006.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <F22C04DA33734E1E878E53D63DA8E275@PhiSchLSpare101>

All my American-born kids are familiar with the term "wanker" also.

Mike


From: Frank Fisher
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2012 11:35 AM
To: John Macartney ; Michael Marr ; William Pugh ; Andrew Uprichard
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] headlights dimmer


for some reason im getting the giggles when the british TV shows im getting
have some one proclaim "tosser"
old but not used a lot here in the US


From: John Macartney <flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk>
To: Michael Marr <mmarr at notwires.com>; Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>;
William Pugh <anabil007 at comcast.net>; Andrew Uprichard
<auprichard at uprichard.net>
Cc: "triumphs at autox.team.net" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2012 9:30 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] headlights dimmer



If we're into Brit Brit vernacular, deprecating terminology for people could
employ terms such as "dipstick" or being "a 99 carat plonker"

Jonmac From: Michael Marr <mmarr at notwires.com>
To: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>; William Pugh <anabil007 at comcast.net>;
Andrew Uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, 29 October 2012, 16:18
Subject: Re: [TR] headlights dimmer


  You know my son-in-law?  Oh, wait a minute, he is dips**t, not dipswitch...

  Mike


  From: Frank Fisher
  Sent: Monday, October 29, 2012 10:45 AM
  To: Michael Marr ; William Pugh ; Andrew Uprichard
  Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
  Subject: Re: [TR] headlights dimmer


  I have a friend by that name !!!
  Do you know him?
  Frank



  From: Michael Marr <mmarr at notwires.com>
  To: William Pugh <anabil007 at comcast.net>; Andrew Uprichard
  <auprichard at uprichard.net>
  Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
  Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2012 7:46 PM
  Subject: Re: [TR] headlights dimmer


  Dipswitch.

  --------------------------------------------------
  From: "William Pugh" <anabil007 at comcast.net>
  Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2012 7:38 PM
  To: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard at uprichard.net>
  Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
  Subject: Re: [TR] headlights dimmer

  > Dipper ???
  >
  >
  > On Oct 27, 2012, at 2:59 PM, "Andrew Uprichard"
<auprichard at uprichard.net>
  > wrote:
  >
  >> OK, so we had boots, bonnets, outer sills and more, but can you remind
me
  >> what I called the dimmer switch in my previous (Ireland, Scotland) life
?
  >>
  >> Andrew Uprichard
  >> 29 years in the UK, 25 in the USA
  >>
  >>
  >
  >
  > "Life is too short to drive boring cars"
  >
  > Bill Pugh
  > 1957 TR3 "Casper"p;
  > TS16765L
  > Wallace, CA
  > anabil007 at comcast.net
  >
  > ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
  >
  > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
  > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
  > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
  > Unsubscribe/Manage:
  > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mmarr at notwires.com

  ** triumphs at autox.team.net **

  Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
  Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
  Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
  Unsubscribe/Manage:
  http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com

  ** triumphs at autox.team.net **

  Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
  Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
  Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
  Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk

From spitlist at cox.net  Mon Oct 29 13:02:58 2012
From: spitlist at cox.net (spitlist at cox.net)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2012 12:02:58 -0700
Subject: [TR] List grill badges (redux)
Message-ID: <20121029150258.JGCYO.1459846.imail@fed1rmwml106>

Some of you will recall that in 2006, I had some grill badges produced with the Triumphs globe and lettering surrounding indicating the Triumphs Email List.  I have had a subscriber ask about getting one but was forced to say that they were no longer available.

I asked the manufacturer if he still has the tooling and he does.  So if we can get at least 25 people who would like to order one or more, I can have them produced again at a cost of $35.00 each.

Some people had issues with the studs on the back becoming detached.  I asked the manufacturer if we could come up with a better method of attaching them and he said that by drilling the area out, it will provide with greater surface area so that more solder can be applied, thus reducing the possibility that they will come off.

So, anybody interested in receiving one or more, please contact me by personal email and I will add your name to the list.  If you want to see what they will look like, go to http://spitlist.info/centercaps.html and scroll all the way to the bottom.  The gray area will be chrome on the grill badges.

Cheers,
Joe Curry

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Tue Oct 30 12:42:55 2012
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2012 11:42:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] headlights dimmer dipsh--
Message-ID: <1351622575.10344.YahooMailNeo@web120603.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

"dimmer" is starting to take on a life of its own, somewhat like the fluiff
thread! LOL  I've solved the dimmer problem but not before taking apart the
headlights, reading up on relays and generally doing everything but the most
simple test I should have done at the very beginning.  (acting like a
dipsh--)  LOL  
Problem solved at the last place I looked...........dipswitch
simply wired wrong.  
 
gary n.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Oct 30 13:32:45 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2012 15:32:45 -0400
Subject: [TR] headlights dimmer dipsh--
In-Reply-To: <1351622575.10344.YahooMailNeo@web120603.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20121030193245.Z57E6.126450.root@cdptpa-web19-z01>

---- Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg at yahoo.com> wrote: 
> Problem solved at the last place I looked...

That's always the way it works.

After all, why would you keep looking after you found it ???

Randall

PS, Congratulations

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Oct 30 16:40:43 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2012 18:40:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] Factory visit 1957
Message-ID: <20121030224043.3ZRUG.127607.root@cdptpa-web19-z01>

This interesting article was originally published in the May 1957 issue of Motor Sport, and briefly outlines a visit to the MG, Standard, and Austin factories.

If I am not mistaken, the first photo (unfortunately black and white and somewhat grainy) shows a TR3 wearing the almost-mythical "Grand Touring" conversion, with permanently attached side curtains and outside door handles.

http://goo.gl/r7HCK

My thanks to 'Andy' (not Andy Mace) on the BCF Austin-Healey forum for posting it.

- Randall

From zoboherald at aol.com  Tue Oct 30 20:50:30 2012
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2012 22:50:30 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Factory visit 1957
In-Reply-To: <20121030224043.3ZRUG.127607.root@cdptpa-web19-z01>
References: <20121030224043.3ZRUG.127607.root@cdptpa-web19-z01>
Message-ID: <8CF85299FB9CF93-1594-579BA@webmail-d091.sysops.aol.com>

I don't have my books handy, but ISTR that SHP520 was a "Works" car (either a
press or a factory competition car, or maybe both)?


--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us




-----Original Message-----
From: Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>


This interesting article was originally published in the May 1957 issue of
Motor
Sport, and briefly outlines a visit to the MG, Standard, and Austin
factories.

If I am not mistaken, the first photo (unfortunately black and white and
somewhat grainy) shows a TR3 wearing the almost-mythical "Grand Touring"
conversion, with permanently attached side curtains and outside door handles.

http://goo.gl/r7HCK

My thanks to 'Andy' (not Andy Mace) on the BCF Austin-Healey forum for posting
it.

From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk  Wed Oct 31 02:39:33 2012
From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2012 08:39:33 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] Factory visit 1957
In-Reply-To: <8CF85299FB9CF93-1594-579BA@webmail-d091.sysops.aol.com>
References: <20121030224043.3ZRUG.127607.root@cdptpa-web19-z01>
	<8CF85299FB9CF93-1594-579BA@webmail-d091.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <1351672773.45586.YahooMailNeo@web29406.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

Andy, I'd speculate it was dubbed a 'competition' car from the outset - and
for two reasons:
 
1. It's larger fuel tank, different axle ratio and other
bits of kit like the Halda speedpilot equipment and driver specified mods
(e.g. a central handbrake, additional switches and fuseboxes) would be a
departure from normal production spec. Okay, you can convert back to original,
but true Press Cars remained faithful to the spec of the day. Occasionally, a
competition car might be 'borrowed' for a driving evaluation but that didn't
make it a Press car.
2 Whether used for competition or Press work, all cars
owned by or prepared by the company for private individuals would have a
normal tax-paid Coventry licence plate - viz SHP 520 and in this instance HP
was one of several unique Coventry marks. Others (from memory) were DU, HP,
VC, RW, KV and WK.
 
Jonmac
________________________________
 From: Andrew S.
Mace <zoboherald at aol.com>
To: tr3driver at ca.rr.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, 31 October 2012, 2:50
Subject: Re: [TR] Factory visit 1957
>I don't have my books handy, but ISTR that SHP520 was a "Works" car (either a
>press or a factory competition car, or maybe both)?
>
>
>--Andy Mace
>
>*Mrs
Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
>*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet,
it's more your, er, Triumph
>Herald engine with wings.
>-- Cut-price Airlines
Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)
>
>Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6
vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
>Register: http://www.vtr.org/
>
>Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
>Database: http://triumph-herald.us/
>
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
>
>
>This interesting article was
originally published in the May 1957 issue of
>Motor
>Sport, and briefly
outlines a visit to the MG, Standard, and Austin
>factories.
>
>If I am not
mistaken, the first photo (unfortunately black and white and
>somewhat grainy)
shows a TR3 wearing the almost-mythical "Grand Touring"
>conversion, with
permanently attached side curtains and outside door handles.
>
>http://goo.gl/r7HCK
>
>My thanks to 'Andy' (not Andy Mace) on the BCF
Austin-Healey forum for posting
>it.
>
>** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk

From pethier at comcast.net  Wed Oct 31 21:46:23 2012
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2012 03:46:23 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Do you live in Washington, DC?
In-Reply-To: <20121029150258.JGCYO.1459846.imail@fed1rmwml106>
Message-ID: <765649711.71034.1351741583195.JavaMail.root@sz0220a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Do you live in Washington, DC?

If you know anything about the Foggy Bottom, Downtown, West End, or Dupont Circle areas, please send me an Email.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier at comcast.net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica
http://www.mnautox.com
http://www.mntriumphs.org