[TR] Towing a TR3A without a trailer/dolly

[amcewen2 at cogeco.ca]

Thanks John (and others),

I sort of wondered if where the bumper attachs to the outriggers was strong
enough but thought the frame would be even
stronger.

However the lack of lubrication to the gearbox is sort of turning me off the
idea.  I could disconnect the driveshaft,
but then I'd have to carry a jack, jackstands, coveralls etc.. and it starts
to defeat the relaxation & fun elements I
was hoping for. ;)

It's too bad the track is too narrow for Uhaul trailers....

Art


>
> A long, long time ago (1972) in a place far far away, I towed my 58 MGA from
Webb AFB, Texas to Pittsburg PA when I
> left the USAF to start grad school.  I used a one-off rig that attached to
the front bumper bolts that was designed &
> built by a local welding shop bakin Big Spring, TX.  Four years later I used
the same rig to tow the MGA from
> Pittsburgh to St Louis (first job after grad school).  No problems...
>
> John
>
> On  14 May, 2012, at 1:19 PM, amcewen2 at cogeco.ca wrote:
>
> > Hi listers,
> >
> > Not sure if this is a good idea or not but Im thinking of rigging my
(daily
> > driver) TR3A to tow behind an RV without
> > a trailer or dolly (4 down in RV parlance).   Obviously I cant phone up
the
> > tow bar people and get an off the
> > shelf mounting bracket for a TR so I was looking at having one
fabricated.
> >
> > My goal is to not reduce the ground clearance any more then is already
there
> > so Id thought of using the 4 bolts that
> > go through the frame to hold the front bumper outriggers on.   If I use
the
> > inner side of the bolt (between the frame
> > rails) it wont change the placement of the outriggers.  (I dont have a
> > rad/sump guard to get in the way).
> >
> > I was thinking of a couple of 18 4-6mm flat steel sections shaped sort
of
> > like Js (or flat field hockey stick)
> > lying on its back with a piece of say 2 box steel across the crook of
the
> > J section to act as the mounting
> > point for the tow bar pins.   That way the bar angle wont interfere with
the
> > bumper and it raises the mounting point
> > slightly and the pulling stress will be on the steel and not the welds.
Id
> > put the mounting pins a couple of inches
> > to the outside of the "J" to make the tow bar resemble a triangle a bit
more
> > in the hops of improving stability.
> > Safety chains would attach behind the suspension uprights.
> >
> > Ive seen MGBs and even a 356 towed like this so Im probably not the
first TR
> > owner to try this,  any idea what the
> > thickness required for the J or the cross piece?  Am I nuts?  ;)
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Art.
> >
> > ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> >
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>
> John A. Wise
> Ormond Beach, FL
>
> 1960 Triumph TR3A
> Commission No: TS80422L
> http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
> http://www.triumphowners.com/876
>
> 1977 Porsche 911S
> http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/