[TR] tenax windshield posts

[Kinderlehrer]

Fools rush in... but it this case it worked out, there was no interference
with the glass and it seems as strong if not stronger than the original. My
JCW version is probably not much better - I do have to yell at it a lot to
make it work. It's been a while, but I think I tried the match stick trick
but there just wasn't enough wood. On the doors I took the wood out behind
the side curtain mounts, drilled the holes out and filled them with wooden
dowels.
Bob

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2012 3:52 PM
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] tenax windshield posts

> My frame didn't have any holes on the inside, but one or two of the 
> holes on the outside were too big, or out of shape, to hold the stud - 
> is that the situation you are facing?

That's my situation, but I think Gary (the OP) already has holes on both
sides of the frame.

> My solution was to use a "nutter"
> thing which works much like a pop-rivet but inserts a molly like 
> threaded sleeve.

I believe those are commonly called "Riv-nuts".  I considered using them,
but wasn't sure there was enough room to install them without removing the
glass (which I would rather not do if I don't have to).  Also not sure if
they were strong enough (since the original threads were not).

Not sure if I would recommend the kit from HF.  Took me 3 tries to get one
that worked reasonably well without breaking.

> I also used it in a few locations where the lift-a-dot stud was 
> supposed to screw into wood but the wood was having no more of it.

For that situation, I generally just coat a kitchen match stick with wood
glue, jam it into the hole and break it off flush with the surface.  Then
just screw the LTD in as usual, being sure to pick up one of the LTD studs
that are meant for wood rather than sheet metal. (They have longer threads
for a better
grip)

-- Randall