From zoboherald at aol.com  Tue May  1 11:05:36 2012
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace)
Date: Tue, 1 May 2012 13:05:36 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Commission numbers
In-Reply-To: <4F9F4AFC.6050603@bradakis.com>
References: <4F9F4AFC.6050603@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <8CEF5D3C1E56D96-19D0-24E14@Webmail-m105.sysops.aol.com>

 Nice enough car. Too bad someone painted over the trunk and hood
hinges...I'll bet they probably painted the underhood areas black, too. :) :)
:)

Seriously, do you sort of feel as if Ken Richardson and others are watching
over your shoulder as you work on this car?



--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us




-----Original Message-----
From: Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com>
To: Triumphs <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Apr 30, 2012 11:06 pm
Subject: [TR] Commission numbers


Working at a repair shop again, one with a decided interest in British cars.
I'm trying to keep track of the commission numbers of all the cars I work on
at Bailey's [ http://baileysautomotive.com ]  For example, the Austin Healey
3000 I worked on is HBJ829679.  I haven't written down the number for the
MG Midget 1500 I started pulling the motor out of today.  Most likely I
won't remember many by heart, there will be a database on one of my
computers involved, no doubt.

But one car came in today for an oil change and a minor problem with the
brake light.  That number I can probably remember:

http://bradakis.com/Images/tr.jpg

From JPayne at ThorCon.net  Tue May  1 11:14:48 2012
From: JPayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne)
Date: Tue, 1 May 2012 17:14:48 +0000
Subject: [TR] Commission numbers
In-Reply-To: <4F9F4AFC.6050603@bradakis.com>
References: <4F9F4AFC.6050603@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <5891B364A7C3594B9466304B59E65B1C1A63261A@ex1mbx01.onthenetoffice.com>

How does the new owner like it?

Robert Smith of Volcano HI sold the car recently.  For a peek at Robert's
collection, check the 1934 Morgan 3 wheeler for sale on ebay.

Robert is an avid collector and a really good guy.


Jonas Payne
PBR
Cell:   (702) 358-5084

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2012 7:31 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] Commission numbers

Working at a repair shop again, one with a decided interest in British cars.
I'm trying to keep track of the commission numbers of all the cars I work on
at Bailey's [ http://baileysautomotive.com ]  For example, the Austin Healey
3000 I worked on is HBJ829679.  I haven't written down the number for the MG
Midget 1500 I started pulling the motor out of today.  Most likely I won't
remember many by heart, there will be a database on one of my computers
involved, no doubt.

But one car came in today for an oil change and a minor problem with the brake
light.  That number I can probably remember:

http://bradakis.com/Images/tr.jpg


mjb.

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From tony at tonydrews.com  Tue May  1 12:20:38 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Tue, 01 May 2012 13:20:38 -0500
Subject: [TR] Commission numbers
In-Reply-To: <4F9F4AFC.6050603@bradakis.com>
References: <4F9F4AFC.6050603@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.1.1335896425.29712.triumphs@autox.team.net>

Wonder if it still has my thumbprint on the inside of the spare tire cover...

Tony Drews

At 09:31 PM 4/30/2012, Mark J Bradakis wrote:
>Working at a repair shop again, one with a decided interest in British cars.
>I'm trying to keep track of the commission numbers of all the cars I work on
>at Bailey's [ http://baileysautomotive.com ]  For example, the Austin Healey
>3000 I worked on is HBJ829679.  I haven't written down the number for the
>MG Midget 1500 I started pulling the motor out of today.  Most likely I
>won't remember many by heart, there will be a database on one of my
>computers involved, no doubt.
>
>But one car came in today for an oil change and a minor problem with the
>brake light.  That number I can probably remember:
>
>http://bradakis.com/Images/tr.jpg
>
>
>mjb.

From cofrog at q.com  Tue May  1 12:54:38 2012
From: cofrog at q.com (cofrog at q.com)
Date: Tue, 1 May 2012 14:54:38 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR4 Crankshaft
In-Reply-To: <1177610957.1565761.1335898365710.JavaMail.root@md04.quartz.synacor.com>
Message-ID: <297435576.1565844.1335898478954.JavaMail.root@md04.quartz.synacor.com>

I'm in need of a good TR3/4 crankshaft. Prefer one with stock sized journals. One near Denver would be best for a local pickup but beggars can't be choosers. 


Thanks, 


Dan 

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Tue May  1 14:44:35 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Tue, 1 May 2012 13:44:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Off to the Mitty
In-Reply-To: <20120426131731.1BC222D07B4@autox.team.net>
References: <20120426131731.1BC222D07B4@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <1335905075.17790.YahooMailNeo@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

well i got to the Mitty and had a great time.
Thomas, i could not find you
anyplace. kept asking strangers if they where Thomas and kept getting funny
looks. 
same story for the rest of you guys too. when i saw a triumph flag i
would ask if any one was from the autox list. more strange looks. one guy from
the Georgia triumph club was kind enough to ask what autox was. when i told
him he suggested i tweet him!
but i did meet Joe Alexander finally. nice to
meet you Joe. and what a treat to see his new car. sexiest triumph made in
America.
Joe, what was your son's car number? ill scroll through the 500 or so
photo's i took.
what a sight to see all those triumphs on the race track at
one time.
and the paddock and surrounding car parking was packed full of
really nice triumphs. Georgia triumph club came out and made all other marques
look pitifully.
maybe see some of you next time
Frank Fisher
 
To: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Thursday, April 26,
2012 6:11 AM
Subject: [TR] Off to the Mitty
  
On I-75  just above
Gainesville, Florida headed to Road Atlanta. Three TR6's not far behind. 
Looks like beautiful weather. 
Tom
73 Stag this trip 

Sent from my HTC on the
Now Network from Sprint!

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From Loumetelko at aol.com  Tue May  1 17:06:17 2012
From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 1 May 2012 19:06:17 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Commission numbers
Message-ID: <4582.2fcd373.3cd1c668@aol.com>

But one car came in today for an oil change and a minor problem with  the
brake light.  That number I can probably remember:
 
 

Mark:
Thanks for the delightful photo of the very beloved TS1.   I first met TS1 
in Joe Richards' shop back in 97 or so and later in 2003 when  Joe unveiled 
it in Auburn at the TRA National I hosted.   Words can not begin to explain 
what Joe started with compared to its finished  look.
 
On another list the new owner said his goal was to "improve" TS1 - that  
very thought just terrifies me.  Would be like some dolt painting a smile  on 
the Mona Lisa!  Sincerely hope before any so called improvements the new  
owner gets opinions from Joe or Bill Piggott or John Saunders.  Please  Mark, 
gently quiz the owner about his plans for TS1 and what improvements he has  
in mind.
 
I know there will be those who say that TS1 is his car to do as he so  
pleases but Dammit there was only one TS1 and to butcher it would be more  than 
criminal! 
 
Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana

From wbeech at flash.net  Tue May  1 18:36:40 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Tue, 1 May 2012 19:36:40 -0500
Subject: [TR] Commission numbers
In-Reply-To: <4582.2fcd373.3cd1c668@aol.com>
References: <4582.2fcd373.3cd1c668@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1624C544C9DA4810B49B55A1384F876B@bboffice>

All this gets me to thinking, is the whereabouts of TS-2,3,4,5,6,7,8 & 9
known?

My feelings are square with Lou, keep it original.

Bill 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Loumetelko at aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2012 6:06 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Commission numbers

But one car came in today for an oil change and a minor problem with  the
brake light.  That number I can probably remember:
 
 

Mark:
Thanks for the delightful photo of the very beloved TS1.   I first met TS1 
in Joe Richards' shop back in 97 or so and later in 2003 when  Joe unveiled 
it in Auburn at the TRA National I hosted.   Words can not begin to explain 
what Joe started with compared to its finished  look.
 
On another list the new owner said his goal was to "improve" TS1 - that very
thought just terrifies me.  Would be like some dolt painting a smile  on the
Mona Lisa!  Sincerely hope before any so called improvements the new owner
gets opinions from Joe or Bill Piggott or John Saunders.  Please  Mark,
gently quiz the owner about his plans for TS1 and what improvements he has
in mind.
 
I know there will be those who say that TS1 is his car to do as he so
pleases but Dammit there was only one TS1 and to butcher it would be more
than criminal! 
 
Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue May  1 18:46:57 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 1 May 2012 17:46:57 -0700
Subject: [TR] Commission numbers
In-Reply-To: <4582.2fcd373.3cd1c668@aol.com>
References: <4582.2fcd373.3cd1c668@aol.com>
Message-ID: <00ab01cd27fd$1489b270$3d9d1750$@rr.com>

> I know there will be those who say that TS1 is his car to do as he so
> pleases but Dammit there was only one TS1 and to butcher it would be
> more  than criminal!

Oddly enough (given my usual stance on such things), in this case I agree.
The comparison to "improving" the Mona Lisa is apt, IMO.

Although I do have to wonder just how much of TS1 is actually still the
original car.  It may be a little like George Washington's axe at this
point.

-- Randall

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Tue May  1 18:53:40 2012
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Tue, 1 May 2012 19:53:40 -0500
Subject: [TR] Commission numbers
In-Reply-To: <4582.2fcd373.3cd1c668@aol.com>
References: <4582.2fcd373.3cd1c668@aol.com>
Message-ID: <SNT123-W26A7A6A4A797E01830CC04E12E0@phx.gbl>

Lou Metelko wrote:
> I know there will be those who say that TS1 is his car to do as he so
> pleases but Dammit there was only one TS1 and to butcher it would be more
than
> criminal!

Normally I would be one of those who would say that it is the owner's choice,
but some cars are too important to history.
Rich White Central, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF###L
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Tue May  1 19:15:25 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Tue, 1 May 2012 18:15:25 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Commission numbers
In-Reply-To: <1624C544C9DA4810B49B55A1384F876B@bboffice>
References: <4582.2fcd373.3cd1c668@aol.com>
	<1624C544C9DA4810B49B55A1384F876B@bboffice>
Message-ID: <1335921325.67562.YahooMailNeo@web120205.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

my recollection is that TS-2 is safe in the UK.
i remember seeing TS-3 up for
sale out of the Netherlands, but it was in poor shape and the guy wanted both
legs and arms for it.
Frank

From: "wbeech at flash.net" <wbeech at flash.net>
To:
Loumetelko at aol.com; triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Tuesday, May 1, 2012 5:36
PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Commission numbers

All this gets me to thinking, is the
whereabouts of TS-2,3,4,5,6,7,8 & 9
known?

My feelings are square with Lou,
keep it original.

Bill 

-----Original Message-----
From:
triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Loumetelko at aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2012 6:06 PM
To:
triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Commission numbers

But one car came
in today for an oil change and a minor problem with  the
brake light.  That
number I can probably remember:



Mark:
Thanks for the delightful photo of
the very beloved TS1.  I first met TS1 
in Joe Richards' shop back in 97 or so
and later in 2003 when  Joe unveiled 
it in Auburn at the TRA National I
hosted.  Words can not begin to explain 
what Joe started with compared to its
finished  look.

On another list the new owner said his goal was to "improve"
TS1 - that very
thought just terrifies me.  Would be like some dolt painting a
smile  on the
Mona Lisa!  Sincerely hope before any so called improvements the
new owner
gets opinions from Joe or Bill Piggott or John Saunders.  Please 
Mark,
gently quiz the owner about his plans for TS1 and what improvements he
has
in mind.

I know there will be those who say that TS1 is his car to do as
he so
pleases but Dammit there was only one TS1 and to butcher it would be
more
than criminal! 

Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana

** triumphs at autox.team.net
**

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From mark at bradakis.com  Tue May  1 20:08:59 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Tue, 01 May 2012 20:08:59 -0600
Subject: [TR] Commission numbers
In-Reply-To: <8CEF5D3C1E56D96-19D0-24E14@Webmail-m105.sysops.aol.com>
References: <4F9F4AFC.6050603@bradakis.com>
	<8CEF5D3C1E56D96-19D0-24E14@Webmail-m105.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <4FA0973B.9050306@bradakis.com>

Andrew S. Mace wrote:
> Nice enough car. Too bad someone painted over the trunk and hood 
> hinges...I'll bet they probably painted the underhood areas black, 
> too. :) :) :)
>
> Seriously, do you sort of feel as if Ken Richardson and others are 
> watching over your shoulder as you work on this car?
>

It's just some beat up old piece of crap, people.  Who is Ken Richardson?


Okay, seriously, I didn't spend that much time working on it, spent more 
time
just daydreaming, thinking of various things like how Ken stole my pen after
he autographed my trophy from the Covington VTR back in, uh, 91?

I was going to offer to take pictures of anything anyone wanted to see, 
but the
owner picked up the car this morning before I got to work.  His Healey 
was there
for a week or so, his MGA is still there, but TS1 came and went quickly.

And speaking of going quickly, here's a quote from an old article from 
Peter Egan
about running a modern recreation of the Mille Miglia, which kind of 
echoes some
sentiments I had about TS1:

    Those old men and women along the road remember.  They weren't
    waving to us.  They were waving to the ghosts of those who once
    drove our cars absolutely as fast as they knew how to go.




mjb.

From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Tue May  1 20:09:32 2012
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Tue, 1 May 2012 22:09:32 -0400
Subject: [TR] Commission numbers
In-Reply-To: <SNT123-W26A7A6A4A797E01830CC04E12E0@phx.gbl>
References: <4582.2fcd373.3cd1c668@aol.com>
	<SNT123-W26A7A6A4A797E01830CC04E12E0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <CAPK7CFBPpRJ-+vo0fvfguLjn7V8J90QhZLEirFcSth0JrT2WSA@mail.gmail.com>

I remember seeing TS1 in it's garage pre-restoration around 1980-1981.
 What was achieved with that restoration is remarkable, and I'm delighted
TS1 still exists.  The car started as a heavily rusted project, that while
mostly complete needed an enormous amount of work.  Possibly a different
frame adapted to the unique details of TS1.

The idea of originality is great.  Conservation classes at concours events
is a welcome development in support of originality.  I don't think TS1
would fit into that class, though...

Don
1962 TSF202L TR3B

On Tue, May 1, 2012 at 8:53 PM, Rich White <rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com> wrote:

> Lou Metelko wrote:
> > I know there will be those who say that TS1 is his car to do as he so
> > pleases but Dammit there was only one TS1 and to butcher it would be more
> than
> > criminal!
>
> Normally I would be one of those who would say that it is the owner's
> choice,
> but some cars are too important to history.
> Rich White Central, IL USA
> '63 TR3B TCF###L
> That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com

From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk  Wed May  2 04:03:43 2012
From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Wed, 2 May 2012 11:03:43 +0100 (BST)
Subject: [TR] Commission numbers
References: <4582.2fcd373.3cd1c668@aol.com>
	<SNT123-W26A7A6A4A797E01830CC04E12E0@phx.gbl>
	<CAPK7CFBPpRJ-+vo0fvfguLjn7V8J90QhZLEirFcSth0JrT2WSA@mail.gmail.com> 
Message-ID: <1335953023.58559.YahooMailNeo@web29401.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

Don Hiscock wrote:The idea of originality is great.  Conservation classes at
concours events
is a welcome development in support of originality.  I don't
think TS1
would fit into that class, though...

But when it comes to
'originality' - especially on any cars up to about the first ten of a new
commission number, originality is highly subjective and questionable. This was
one of the issues in the rebuilds of TS1 and TS2 as at the time they were
built, there were certain components and techniques used which affected
appearance (if not function). This was confirmed to me by the man who rebuilt
TS1 when I met him and the car at Watkins Glen in 2008. These variances don't
just go for Standard-Triumph but pretty well any mass-produced post war
British car. 
At the moment, I know Joe Pawlak of ISOA in Illinois is finding
similar issues with LD2 - the first Stag imported into the USA and mostly a
car, like LD1 and 'x' number of others that were largely half built in the
Experimental Department and not, as popularly believed, on the assembly track.
he same goes for 312 VC, the 'first' Spitfire, 'first' GT6. Indded, the first
TR5 started life as a TR4A. Why? Because with the best will in the world of
forty plus years ago, it simply wasn't possible to co-ordinate all your
suppliers to get their piece of kit to the right place on the right day and
just in time to have it fitted. This is why initial deliveries were so slow
immediately after new model announcement.

Jonmac

From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com  Wed May  2 06:34:40 2012
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Wed, 2 May 2012 05:34:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Commission numbers- TS1
Message-ID: <1335962080.71173.YahooMailNeo@web39402.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi List!
I agree with Randall's philosophy on cars in general. I also agree
with Lou M's philosophy. Therefore, it throws me into a quandary of Socrates'
philosophy of, "What is right?"
 
I, too, was at TRA '03 when Joe did his
unveiling of TS1 & Don E. was all over TS1 while Joe R. was giving his lecture
& passing out his literature on TS1. I've contacted Don E. after his taping of
TS1 to as him how he was coming along on his editing. His reply was, " I
haven't had a chance to do that yet". Since then he has had a stroke & did
recover, as much as one can recover from such a fate. I've lost contact with
Don, but may be this will inspire me to do a little more follow through. I'm
sure we ALL have some "projects" that we're "Going to get around to it to
do.", but I'm telling you NOT to wait to get a-round-to-it, because life is
short. The problem is that we have a tendency to think like a youngster, "I'll
be here tomorrow", UNTIL some major happening hits us to the point of not
being able to recover to "The way I use to be." That's when we have the
regrets of, "Gee, I wanted to do that, but now I can't. Gee, I should have
made the time to
 do it." This subject is bring a tear to my eye, because I'm just as human as
the next person, & I'm thinking about all my 'old friends' (now dead- from
illness or war) That never got a chance to 'Get a-round-to-it'.
 
I have seen
TS1 & have only 32 pictures of it form Watkin's Glen '08, when a popular mag.
photographer was taking a series of pictures of TS1. Joe R. was removing the
hood, opening the bonnet, or installing the tonneau cover, & I was right
behind her taking many of the same pictures that she was (but I'm sure here's
were better because of her camera & being so much closer than I.). If anyone
is interested in viewing these pictures, then feel free to contact me.
 
Lou,
that statement you wrote about the newest owner 'making it better', also
scares & bewilders me. I can't think of anything that would keep the
historical value of TS1 & make it better, because I know Joe R. did do a
TERRIFIC job on the restoration. 
-Cosmo Kramer

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Wed May  2 09:06:06 2012
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Wed, 02 May 2012 10:06:06 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] TS1
Message-ID: <8443986.1215997.1335971166671.JavaMail.root@vznit170132>

Maybe the new owner has more money than sense.  It is currently documented to be as close to original as possible (even acknowledging JonMac variancies).  To change it beyond it's original configuration would really decrease the value of TS1.    As a collector/investment - I doubt the new owner would want to fall down that hole.
jm2cw.
Carl
 


On 05/01/12, Loumetelko at aol.com wrote:

But one car came in today for an oil change and a minor problem with the
brake light. That number I can probably remember:



Mark:
Thanks for the delightful photo of the very beloved TS1. I first met TS1 
in Joe Richards' shop back in 97 or so and later in 2003 when Joe unveiled 
it in Auburn at the TRA National I hosted. Words can not begin to explain 
what Joe started with compared to its finished look.

On another list the new owner said his goal was to "improve" TS1 - that 
very thought just terrifies me. Would be like some dolt painting a smile on 
the Mona Lisa! Sincerely hope before any so called improvements the new 
owner gets opinions from Joe or Bill Piggott or John Saunders. Please Mark, 
gently quiz the owner about his plans for TS1 and what improvements he has 
in mind.

I know there will be those who say that TS1 is his car to do as he so 
pleases but Dammit there was only one TS1 and to butcher it would be more than 
criminal! 

Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Wed May  2 10:09:16 2012
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Wed, 02 May 2012 09:09:16 -0700
Subject: [TR] TS1
In-Reply-To: <8443986.1215997.1335971166671.JavaMail.root@vznit170132>
References: <8443986.1215997.1335971166671.JavaMail.root@vznit170132>
Message-ID: <4FA15C2C.9020108@gmail.com>

On 5/2/12 8:06 AM, Carl TR wrote:
> Maybe the new owner has more money than sense.  It is currently documented to be as close to original as possible (even acknowledging JonMac variancies).  To change it beyond it's original configuration would really decrease the value of TS1.    As a collector/investment - I doubt the new owner would want to fall down that hole.
>
So I take it that this means converting TS1 into a stretch limo is out?

From odd at triumphclub.se  Wed May  2 10:12:43 2012
From: odd at triumphclub.se (Odd Hedberg)
Date: Wed, 02 May 2012 18:12:43 +0200
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 5, Issue 188 - TSx whereabouts?
In-Reply-To: <mailman.289.1335953002.29715.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.289.1335953002.29715.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <4FA15CFB.9030600@triumphclub.se>

Well, TS9L is safe and well here in Sweden, where it's been ever since 
new - I think.
Body EB10 and engine EB45E.
/Odd

PS
John,
LD8O is here as well...


triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote 2012-05-02 12:03:
> All this gets me to thinking,
> is the whereabouts of TS-2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 & 9 known? 

From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Wed May  2 10:17:53 2012
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Wed, 2 May 2012 12:17:53 -0400
Subject: [TR] TS1
In-Reply-To: <8443986.1215997.1335971166671.JavaMail.root@vznit170132>
References: <8443986.1215997.1335971166671.JavaMail.root@vznit170132>
Message-ID: <CAPK7CFD6kJ99+9jN9STsjOcP5G7nkoy5-=RJfAo78PCuyATJUA@mail.gmail.com>

It's my understanding the entire lower half of TS1 has been rebuilt, as
close to the original in as many ways as they could make it.  That's
consistent with my memory of seeing the car pre-restoration in the early
1980s.  Maybe someone here can give us more details.

Something can only be original once.  This car is no longer in that
category.  While we're all happy the car was rescued, let's be clear that
it was *restored*, not *conserved*.  TS1 isn't a time-warp car -- it was a
near-basket case brought back.  My wish is that any owner be "sensitive" to
the car's historical importance.  But any owner has every right to do
whatever he wants to a car.

There are other cars out there that are in much more original condition for
which conservation is a more important consideration.  The long-door TR2
from the former Harrah's collection, for example, is a 9000 mile survivor
virtually untouched since the mid 1950s, is fully intact (and still a
runner, in the considerate hands of a member of this list).  There's one
that needs to be saved from non-original upgrades!

Don
1962 TR3B TSF202L
(which was hit by baseball-sized hail last weekend in Saint Louis while
parked outside the shop completing final assembly after a full restoration.
 Ugh!)

On Wed, May 2, 2012 at 11:06 AM, Carl TR <cfmtr3a at verizon.net> wrote:

> Maybe the new owner has more money than sense.  It is currently documented
> to be as close to original as possible (even acknowledging JonMac
> variancies).  To change it beyond it's original configuration would really
> decrease the value of TS1.    As a collector/investment - I doubt the new
> owner would want to fall down that hole.
> jm2cw.
> Carl
>
>
>
> On 05/01/12, Loumetelko at aol.com wrote:
>
> But one car came in today for an oil change and a minor problem with the
> brake light. That number I can probably remember:
>
>
>
> Mark:
> Thanks for the delightful photo of the very beloved TS1. I first met TS1
> in Joe Richards' shop back in 97 or so and later in 2003 when Joe unveiled
> it in Auburn at the TRA National I hosted. Words can not begin to explain
> what Joe started with compared to its finished look.
>
> On another list the new owner said his goal was to "improve" TS1 - that
> very thought just terrifies me. Would be like some dolt painting a smile on
> the Mona Lisa! Sincerely hope before any so called improvements the new
> owner gets opinions from Joe or Bill Piggott or John Saunders. Please Mark,
> gently quiz the owner about his plans for TS1 and what improvements he has
> in mind.
>
> I know there will be those who say that TS1 is his car to do as he so
> pleases but Dammit there was only one TS1 and to butcher it would be more
> than
> criminal!
>
> Lou Metelko
> Auburn, Indiana
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com

From tedtsimx at bright.net  Wed May  2 11:04:23 2012
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Wed, 02 May 2012 13:04:23 -0400
Subject: [TR] Kastner Cup T.shirt & Walter Mitty
Message-ID: <4FA16917.4020007@bright.net>

Hello lists.  The Kastner Cup race was great. Lots of cars, good 
competition and fun.  The Kastner Cup shirt was a hit and many people 
requested additional shirts.  There seems to be enough interest to do 
one more run of shirts.  We are donating a portion of the proceeds from 
the sale of all the Kastner Cup shirts to Mark Bradakis, the operator 
and majordomo of all the team.net sites. Mark's efforts benefit all of 
us in this hobby - racers, restorer's or just plain interested 
enthusiasts.   Even if we don't get a sufficient number of orders, 
please donate to team.net.  Kas likes the idea of Mark getting some 
extra funds and might be persuaded to autograph your shirt.  Details 
worked out between buyers and Kas. Email Kas at kaskas at cox.net.

We have a final order date of close of business, May 14.  Tuesday we are 
go or no/go. Shirts will be $15 for size small through XL. $18 for XXL 
or XXXL. (price does not include shipping)  You need to contact us with 
your name, shipping address and method of payment - 
Visa/MasterCard/Discover or send a check - no PayPal.  If we have enough 
orders, shirts will be printed and shipped. If we do not have a 
sufficient number of orders,your information will be shredded.  A 
minimum of 48 orders is needed.  For those who have not seen the shirt, 
here is a link to view the shirt.

http://littlebluespitfire.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=6612

Order early, order often. Thanks for all your support. Ted



-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US&  Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022

From gdewine at aol.com  Wed May  2 11:09:22 2012
From: gdewine at aol.com (gdewine at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 2 May 2012 13:09:22 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
Message-ID: <8CEF69D74443EDD-1AE0-204A8@webmail-m062.sysops.aol.com>

Y0u can earn t0day m0ney using y0ur c0mputer
http://cell-net.net/dereck.php?yduIDCid=16



            Wed, 2 May 2012 18:09:22
______________
"It's tryin', said Bert" (c) alvaro visszaszoritjak

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Wed May  2 11:39:12 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Wed, 2 May 2012 10:39:12 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TS1
In-Reply-To: <4FA15C2C.9020108@gmail.com>
References: <8443986.1215997.1335971166671.JavaMail.root@vznit170132>
	<4FA15C2C.9020108@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1335980352.26770.YahooMailNeo@web120201.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

So I take it that this means converting TS1 into a stretch limo is out?
 
i
think it was more of an upgrade to a more modern car
like:
 
http://www.brit.ca/~tboicey/comics/tr9.html
 
Frank
________________________________
 From: TeriAnn J. Wakeman
<tjwakeman at gmail.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Wednesday, May 2,
2012 9:09 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] TS1
  
On 5/2/12 8:06 AM, Carl TR wrote:
>
Maybe the new owner has more money than sense.  It is currently documented to
be as close to original as possible (even acknowledging JonMac variancies). 
To change it beyond it's original configuration would really decrease the
value of TS1.    As a collector/investment - I doubt the new owner would want
to fall down that hole.
>
So I take it that this means converting TS1 into a
stretch limo is out?

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From zoboherald at aol.com  Wed May  2 13:00:05 2012
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace)
Date: Wed, 2 May 2012 15:00:05 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TSx whereabouts?
In-Reply-To: <4FA15CFB.9030600@triumphclub.se>
References: <mailman.289.1335953002.29715.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<4FA15CFB.9030600@triumphclub.se>
Message-ID: <8CEF6ACEBA8257C-131C-5277@webmail-m161.sysops.aol.com>

 Bill Piggott in the UK, Bill Lynn in the US, and others, have worked many
years to track the existing early cars. The most recent list can be found on
the VTR web site:

http://www.vtr.org/TR2/SurvivorListDocs/TR2SurvivorList31December2011.pdf

--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us

From triumphstag at gmail.com  Wed May  2 13:05:36 2012
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Wed, 2 May 2012 12:05:36 -0700
Subject: [TR] What should I look for in a good welding helmet?
Message-ID: <CANLCLaHKLCcPmb_nZUa0egO3KXqJz40PETRcanvoKdy25s_T2Q@mail.gmail.com>

I've got a great deal on a MIG welder from Sears/ Craftsman. It came with a
mickey mouse hand-held visor. I'd like to get a good one.
What should I look for? For ones that say auto-darkening should I look for
a number or some spec?


Sujit

-- 
Sujit Roy, Realtor
Keller Williams Realty, Cupertino, CA
(408) 839-8359
roysrealty.com

From tedtsimx at bright.net  Wed May  2 13:47:58 2012
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Wed, 02 May 2012 15:47:58 -0400
Subject: [TR] Import Carlisle
Message-ID: <4FA18F6E.9090107@bright.net>

Hello list. We will be at Import Carlisle. Our space #'s are D50 and 
D51.  If you need anything brought out to the event, free shipping is 
good, please let us know.  We will have gear reduciton starters, steel 
braided brake and clutch hoses, suspension components and ???. Stop by 
and say hello. Thanks, Ted

-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US&  Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022

From JPayne at ThorCon.net  Wed May  2 13:50:58 2012
From: JPayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne)
Date: Wed, 2 May 2012 19:50:58 +0000
Subject: [TR] What should I look for in a good welding helmet?
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaHKLCcPmb_nZUa0egO3KXqJz40PETRcanvoKdy25s_T2Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaHKLCcPmb_nZUa0egO3KXqJz40PETRcanvoKdy25s_T2Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <5891B364A7C3594B9466304B59E65B1C1A63CA56@ex1mbx01.onthenetoffice.com>

I fiddled with a cheap helmet for years, and the quality of my welding
improved 10000000% when I purchased a good auto-darkening one.

Don't waste your time on anything else - it will be the best $ you ever spend
on tools.


Jonas Payne
PBR
Cell:   (702) 358-5084


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Sujit Roy
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2012 12:06 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] What should I look for in a good welding helmet?

I've got a great deal on a MIG welder from Sears/ Craftsman. It came with a
mickey mouse hand-held visor. I'd like to get a good one.
What should I look for? For ones that say auto-darkening should I look for a
number or some spec?


Sujit

--
Sujit Roy, Realtor
Keller Williams Realty, Cupertino, CA
(408) 839-8359
roysrealty.com

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jpayne at thorcon.net

From mbarre at juno.com  Wed May  2 16:25:31 2012
From: mbarre at juno.com (Matt)
Date: Wed, 2 May 2012 22:25:31 GMT
Subject: [TR] What should I look for in a good welding helmet?
Message-ID: <20120502.182531.9355.0@webmail06.vgs.untd.com>

Welcome to the world of welding!While you will likely get some good replies
from the TR list, you will definitely do better over on the shop talk list.An
easy and worthwhile team.net sign up. I agree with the earlier reply that
autodarkening is the way to go.I also thought that eye protection was worth
the cost of getting a nice helmet, but some oldtimers advised thatthe
autodarkening technology largely either worked or it didn't and they were
comfortable using harbor freight helmets as far as the actual lens was
concerned. If you are going to be welding a LOT - then the fit of the helmet
and how easily you can flip it and other ergonomic issues may well be worth
the extra $$.

Matt

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com>
To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] What should I look for in a good welding helmet?
Date: Wed, 2 May 2012 12:05:36 -0700

I've got a great deal on a MIG welder from Sears/ Craftsman. It came with a
mickey mouse hand-held visor. I'd like to get a good one.
What should I look for? For ones that say auto-darkening should I look for
a number or some spec?


Sujit

--
Sujit Roy, Realtor
Keller Williams Realty, Cupertino, CA
(408) 839-8359
roysrealty.com

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mbarre at juno.com

From elliottr at rmi.net  Wed May  2 18:44:24 2012
From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott)
Date: Wed, 02 May 2012 19:44:24 -0500
Subject: [TR] Spitfire Turn Signals
In-Reply-To: <07a401cd2673$66b4ec80$0601a8c0@randall>
References: <4F9DA0D4.3000404@rmi.net> <07a401cd2673$66b4ec80$0601a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <4FA1D4E8.1000200@rmi.net>

Thanks Everyone,

I determined that even though there was voltage were the green wires 
went into the stabilizer, there was no voltage at the connector to the 
hazard switch.

I tried tracing the wires from both ends, but they both went into the 
harness and I could not determine where the problem might be.

I ended up just running another wire between the stabilizer and the 
hazard switch connector and everything is working fine.

Thanks,
Roger Elliott

On 04/29/2012 08:48 PM, Randall wrote:
>> There is continuity between the voltage regulator and the
>> green wire at
>> the hazard switch.   Though when I check for voltage at the
>> green wire,
>> there isn't any.
> Checking for continuity is always a tricky business, especially with other
> things connected to the circuit.  The "continuity" you see may be through
> those devices and ground; or may be too high resistance to operate the load.
> (For example, many continuity testers will show 10 ohms or so as a
> connection; but 10 ohms is much too high to power turn signals.)
>
> If there is no voltage on the green wire with the ignition on, then the
> problem is somewhere between where you are checking and the battery.  Since
> presumably the gauges powered by the voltage stabilizer do work, the problem
> must be between that point and the stabilizer.  Could be a broken wire, but
> my money is on the tab on the VS being broken, corroded, or simply not
> connected properly.  (It is sometimes easy to slide the blade between the
> terminal and the plastic covering, which can sometimes make a connection
> that will show continuity but not pass enough power to actually run
> anything.)
>
> -- Randall

From aljlthomson at charter.net  Wed May  2 19:17:42 2012
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson)
Date: Wed, 2 May 2012 21:17:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] What should I look for in a good welding helmet?
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaHKLCcPmb_nZUa0egO3KXqJz40PETRcanvoKdy25s_T2Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaHKLCcPmb_nZUa0egO3KXqJz40PETRcanvoKdy25s_T2Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000c01cd28ca$8a2b22c0$9e816840$@charter.net>

Several thoughts. I never thought I would have an auto-darkening shield but
a gift is a gift. They do work great, especially if you are under a piece of
equipment and there just isn't room to flip the whole shield up and down. I
have found that the models with an on/off switch can be a nuisance. If not
used after 10 minutes, they automatically shut off and that is a real
dazzling experience when you strike the arc.  Make sure to get one with
adjustable shade - maybe 9 through 12. Some of the auto-darkening assemblies
have a small viewing field - similar to the older 2 x 4.25 size shields.
Those may be difficult for those with glasses, especially bi-focals. I used
to use, and still do at times, a traditional shield with the 4.5x5.25 size
plate. Sometimes that extra field of vision is real helpful. Another thing I
noticed with auto-darkening shields is that the sensitivity can vary with
distance. I resisted using them in my welding class at school because the
shields would not darken if you looked at an arc more than 5 feet distant.
That scared me! But that is probably not an issue in your own shop. You also
can get an auto-darkening insert if you already have a 4.5x5.25 plate size
shield. Somebody else mentioned that a comfortable, light design is
important - absolutely true. Also, purchase a shield for which you can get
replacement head bands. I still prefer to buy welding supplies from a
welding supplier. The shield that I have is an ARC ONE made in Taunton Mass.
In a recent survey, more than 98% of the respondents suggested that your
eyes are important to protect!

Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Sujit Roy
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2012 3:06 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] What should I look for in a good welding helmet?

I've got a great deal on a MIG welder from Sears/ Craftsman. It came with a
mickey mouse hand-held visor. I'd like to get a good one.
What should I look for? For ones that say auto-darkening should I look for a
number or some spec?


Sujit

--
Sujit Roy, Realtor
Keller Williams Realty, Cupertino, CA
(408) 839-8359
roysrealty.com

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net

From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk  Thu May  3 07:34:51 2012
From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Thu, 3 May 2012 14:34:51 +0100 (BST)
Subject: [TR] TS1 all over again?
Message-ID: <1336052091.51399.YahooMailNeo@web29401.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

I've no idea how much it cost the current owner of TS1 to repatriate it from
Hawaii but today's Hemmings Blog informs me that someone in the UK has
recently paid $65,000 for XLL 27 - the eighth Austin Se7en to roll off the
Longbridge line in 1959. If this rustbucket is worth that much, makes you
wonder how much Mini #1 at BMIHT is worth? From the pix, will it take another
65k to get it halfway decent? IMHO, allow the patina of rust and dust to
prevail and leave it alone in a nice dry garage or museum for others to enjoy
as it is.

Jonmac

From mmarr at notwires.com  Thu May  3 07:45:16 2012
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Thu, 3 May 2012 08:45:16 -0500
Subject: [TR] Commission numbers
In-Reply-To: <4FA0973B.9050306@bradakis.com>
References: <4F9F4AFC.6050603@bradakis.com><8CEF5D3C1E56D96-19D0-24E14@Webmail-m105.sysops.aol.com>
	<4FA0973B.9050306@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <B6762938B8CE44018B82F2BE5A454421@PhiSchLSpare101>

Peter Egan is pretty much the only reason I continue to subscribe to Road 
and Track.

Mike

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Mark J Bradakis" <mark at bradakis.com>

> And speaking of going quickly, here's a quote from an old article from 
> Peter Egan
>
>    Those old men and women along the road remember.  They weren't
>    waving to us.  They were waving to the ghosts of those who once
>    drove our cars absolutely as fast as they knew how to go.

From rivers2hills at yahoo.com  Thu May  3 08:40:51 2012
From: rivers2hills at yahoo.com (John Summers)
Date: Thu, 3 May 2012 07:40:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] questions for the list
Message-ID: <1336056051.97355.YahooMailNeo@web113602.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

'74 TR6, Weber DGV carbs, Pertronix electronic ignition, high torque starter.
 I have learned to use starting fluid sprayed into my air filters to get a
nearly instant start.  Before, on a good day, it could have taken several
attempts and a lot of grinding to get ignition.  Now, after a period of years
where I only had to worry about the car starting maybe 6 times before it would
leave me stranded the # is down to 2 or 3 starts per trip.  I have no idea
why.  Recently I was stalled in a parking lot and put my hand on the back of
the starter switch and shook it around and it started.  The next occurance I
did the same thing for 20 minutes and had to ride a tow truck home - where
after unloading, the car started right up.  Could it be the starter switch?
Then yesterday a new sound popped up.  When I apply the foot brake there is
the sound of air escaping over top of my feet.  The car still stops but there
is a noticeable "hardness" to the brake pedal.  Something is going on here.  
I've had the car since 1998. My 25th wedding anniversary gift that keeps on
giving.  Or as I like to describe it "my midlife crisis car, only I didn't
know the car would BE the crisis well into my 60's".     I'm starting to lust
after used Nissans or Toyota's.  Stop me before I do something RATIONAL!!
John
Summers
Jacksonville, Fl.

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Thu May  3 09:37:26 2012
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Thu, 03 May 2012 11:37:26 -0400
Subject: [TR] questions for the list
In-Reply-To: <1336056051.97355.YahooMailNeo@web113602.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <1336056051.97355.YahooMailNeo@web113602.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4FA2A636.5000606@adelphia.net>

John,

I have seen the ignition switch problem a few times on the 6-pack forum. 
Seems to be 74 and on. My 72 switch works first time every time. Owners 
of 73 and less have not mentioned this problem. So you might want to 
source a new switch.

As far as the brake booster, you might want to check with Ted as TSI. He 
offers rebuilt units for about 100 or so. His products, including 
rebuilt booster units, appear on Ebay from time to time.

His website is: http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com/

BTW, I have been a Triumph owner for my entire adult life and the grin 
still appears whenever I drive one of my Triumphs down the street. I 
know some of the newer "sport" cars offer a ot more comfort and 
reliability, but a Triumph is a Triumph!

Bob

On 05/03/2012 10:40 AM, John Summers wrote:
> '74 TR6, Weber DGV carbs, Pertronix electronic ignition, high torque starter.
>   I have learned to use starting fluid sprayed into my air filters to get a
> nearly instant start.  Before, on a good day, it could have taken several
> attempts and a lot of grinding to get ignition.  Now, after a period of years
> where I only had to worry about the car starting maybe 6 times before it would
> leave me stranded the # is down to 2 or 3 starts per trip.  I have no idea
> why.  Recently I was stalled in a parking lot and put my hand on the back of
> the starter switch and shook it around and it started.  The next occurance I
> did the same thing for 20 minutes and had to ride a tow truck home - where
> after unloading, the car started right up.  Could it be the starter switch?
> Then yesterday a new sound popped up.  When I apply the foot brake there is
> the sound of air escaping over top of my feet.  The car still stops but there
> is a noticeable "hardness" to the brake pedal.  Something is going on here.
> I've had the car since 1998. My 25th wedding anniversary gift that keeps on
> giving.  Or as I like to describe it "my midlife crisis car, only I didn't
> know the car would BE the crisis well into my 60's".     I'm starting to lust
> after used Nissans or Toyota's.  Stop me before I do something RATIONAL!!
> John
> Summers
> Jacksonville, Fl.
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr at adelphia.net

From guy at genfiniti.com  Thu May  3 09:49:49 2012
From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins)
Date: Thu, 3 May 2012 10:49:49 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A - News and Parts Advice
Message-ID: <3A469CBB-B13E-4B45-BD29-151219D2F18B@genfiniti.com>

All,

First the news.  Last weekend Julia and I drove the TR4A to the VTR South
Central Regional Convention in Broken Arrow, Oklahoma.
I was as nervous as a pregnant nun, with the car having less than 2000 miles
on it, but we made it to and from without a major incident (more on this
later).
We had a fun three days with folks from the region participating in several
drivings events, meals and parties.
The little car even took First Place in the Concours Modified judging, missing
a perfect sore by only two points.  Let's hear it for lenient judges!

We did, however, experience a minor incident while driving in the rallye.
About half way through I looked down at the speedometer and the needle is
resting on the zero.
Last night I got into it and learned what the issue was:  the right angle
drive adapter to the gearbox had just fallen apart.
I bought this brand new from Moss, and made sure I also included the special
washer thing that ostensibly prevents this from happening.
While removing the tranny tunnel to access the drive, I tore some of the
carpet pieces, which I had glued a bit too well.

Does anyone know of a better angled drive adapter, as I am now suspicious of
Moss'?
Also, does anyone know where we can by individual carpet pieces?



Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph

From mmarr at notwires.com  Thu May  3 10:01:04 2012
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Thu, 3 May 2012 11:01:04 -0500
Subject: [TR] questions for the list
In-Reply-To: <1336056051.97355.YahooMailNeo@web113602.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <1336056051.97355.YahooMailNeo@web113602.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <54F77172239948379509E2058CB78B81@PhiSchLSpare101>

I would say that you have a brake booster problem - that is the cause of the 
new noise and the apparent "hardness" of the brakes.  I am not familiar 
enough with the TR6 to say whether that might be related to the starting 
problem, but I suppose that the vacuum hose to the booster COULD be broken 
and COULD be sucking air into the manifold which COULD cause the mixture to 
be too lean (hence the need for starting fluif).  But, that is all 
guesswork.  Brake boosters weren't considered necessary on my 3A!  But I 
would definitely start looking for simple fixes around the brake booster, 
such as a broken or loose vacuum line.

Mike

--------------------------------------------------
> Then yesterday a new sound popped up.  When I apply the foot brake there 
> is
> the sound of air escaping over top of my feet.  The car still stops but 
> there
> is a noticeable "hardness" to the brake pedal.  Something is going on 
> here.
> I've had the car since 1998. My 25th wedding anniversary gift that keeps 
> on
> giving.  Or as I like to describe it "my midlife crisis car, only I didn't
> know the car would BE the crisis well into my 60's".     I'm starting to 
> lust
> after used Nissans or Toyota's.  Stop me before I do something RATIONAL!!
> John
> Summers
> Jacksonville, Fl.

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Thu May  3 11:06:56 2012
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Thu, 3 May 2012 13:06:56 -0400
Subject: [TR] Mitty Weekend
Message-ID: <BLU168-W1092DD1DD185FF8A10DAFA8BA2F0@phx.gbl>

Just returned from the Mitty at Road Atlanta. A truly fantastic event.
Numerous folks from the list stopped by to say hey in the paddock, it was so
good to see you all again.  Next years Triumph race is going to be at Road
America in Elkhart Lake WI. Should be a blast also. I was unfortunate enough
to launch a piston out of the side of my block during the first practice
session but we still had a great time.  Hope to salvage the head and camshaft.
Guess I'll be on the hunt for another small journal 1296 between now and Road
America. :)

Marty

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu May  3 11:12:54 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 3 May 2012 10:12:54 -0700
Subject: [TR] questions for the list
In-Reply-To: <1336056051.97355.YahooMailNeo@web113602.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <1336056051.97355.YahooMailNeo@web113602.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <02d901cd294f$fae613f0$f0b23bd0$@rr.com>

> '74 TR6, Weber DGV carbs, Pertronix electronic ignition,

What did you do about the ballast resistor?  The Pertronix needs to get full
battery voltage, but will overheat if used with the original coil and no
ballast resistor.

> high torque starter.

How is the starter wired in?  Does the relay still supply power to the
starter solenoid?

I don't know how it compares to the TR6 solenoid, but my gear-drive starter
solenoid draws roughly 10 times as much current as the original TR3 starter
solenoid.

> Could it be the starter
> switch?

Certainly a possibility.  But I also discovered (the hard way) that my
gear-drive starter would still turn the engine quite happily, when the
battery voltage under load had dropped down to where the Pertronix would not
work at all.  In my case, the nearly-new battery was simply defective, but
I'm guessing that a marginal connection somewhere (checked your ground strap
lately?) could cause the same problem.  And if the voltage drop were not
quite so severe, it might be just hard to start instead of impossible.

> When I apply the foot brake
> there is
> the sound of air escaping over top of my feet.  The car still stops but
> there
> is a noticeable "hardness" to the brake pedal.  Something is going on
> here.

I'd guess a problem with the brake booster, which operates on air and is
located above your feet.

-- Randall 

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Thu May  3 11:13:23 2012
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 3 May 2012 13:13:23 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] questions for the list
Message-ID: <15a83.3bccf653.3cd416b3@cs.com>

Anecdotal.  

My 71 ignition switch went all dodgey.  I would be driving along, minding 
my own business and everything would shut down.  Even the overdrive would 
kick out.  I wiggle the switch and everything comes back on.  On the highway 
that usually resulted in a big bang in the exhaust from all the unburned fuel 
in the exhaust.

A new switch and all has been just fine for these 18 odd years.

Dave

In a message dated 5/3/2012 11:29:49 AM Central Daylight Time, 
yellowtr at adelphia.net writes: 
> I have seen the ignition switch problem a few times on the 6-pack forum. 
> Seems to be 74 and on. My 72 switch works first time every time. Owners 
> of 73 and less have not mentioned this problem. So you might want to 
> source a new switch.

From jfreynolds_99 at yahoo.com  Thu May  3 16:19:06 2012
From: jfreynolds_99 at yahoo.com (John Reynolds)
Date: Thu, 3 May 2012 15:19:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Spitfires at the Mitty
Message-ID: <1336083546.9160.YahooMailNeo@web162904.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

NASS Members,
 
Herman Schaller and the Georgia Triumph Association put on an
excellent car show and associated events at the recent Mitty. What was
suprising was that there were only one or two Spitfires in attendance. Later I
noticed that there was a hard to see NASS encampment consisting of about 6
cars behind the Motorsports Magazine tent. What's up guys? Why don't you join
in the fun.
 
John Reynolds
Houston, TX

From tr3a58 at verizon.net  Thu May  3 17:08:47 2012
From: tr3a58 at verizon.net (Dean Tetterton)
Date: Thu, 03 May 2012 19:08:47 -0400
Subject: [TR] questions for the list
In-Reply-To: <1336056051.97355.YahooMailNeo@web113602.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <1336056051.97355.YahooMailNeo@web113602.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <B8E897CA-2376-44B3-A6C0-BF3F16498836@verizon.net>

John
            First the easy part. You have a bad brake booster. Leaking air
when applying the brake. You can
get a rebuilt one from Ted.

When you say it won't start, is the starter turning and it won't fire or does
the starter not activate. If the
starter will not start turning, it could be the 74 seat belt interlock circuit
if it hasn't already been bypassed.
They required the drivers door being shut, drivers seat belt fastened,
passenger seat belt fasterned if their is a
passenger. Their were pressure sensors in the seats to tell if they were
occupied. Their is an easy bypass if you can do
electrical stuff. There is a box with a buzzer in it near the glove box. There
is a plug with 12 wires going into it. You can unplug it
and jumper pins 11 & 12 in the plug. Or connect the white/red and white/orange
wires from the plug together. This will allow the
starter relay to work without all the other conditions being met.

If this has already been done,The plug in back of the ignition switch could be
going.

Also sounds like your Weber DGV carbs are not set up correctly and might not
have a working choke.

Dean Tetterton


On May 3, 2012, at 10:40 AM, John Summers wrote:

> '74 TR6, Weber DGV carbs, Pertronix electronic ignition, high torque
starter.
> I have learned to use starting fluid sprayed into my air filters to get a
> nearly instant start.  Before, on a good day, it could have taken several
> attempts and a lot of grinding to get ignition.  Now, after a period of
years
> where I only had to worry about the car starting maybe 6 times before it
would
> leave me stranded the # is down to 2 or 3 starts per trip.  I have no idea
> why.  Recently I was stalled in a parking lot and put my hand on the back
of
> the starter switch and shook it around and it started.  The next occurance
I
> did the same thing for 20 minutes and had to ride a tow truck home - where
> after unloading, the car started right up.  Could it be the starter switch?
> Then yesterday a new sound popped up.  When I apply the foot brake there is
> the sound of air escaping over top of my feet.  The car still stops but
there
> is a noticeable "hardness" to the brake pedal.  Something is going on here.
> I've had the car since 1998. My 25th wedding anniversary gift that keeps on
> giving.  Or as I like to describe it "my midlife crisis car, only I didn't
> know the car would BE the crisis well into my 60's".     I'm starting to
lust
> after used Nissans or Toyota's.  Stop me before I do something RATIONAL!!
> John
> Summers
> Jacksonville, Fl.
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3a58 at verizon.net

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Thu May  3 18:54:56 2012
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Thu, 3 May 2012 17:54:56 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] welding helmet
Message-ID: <1336092896.72379.YahooMailNeo@web65503.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

I purchased a welding helmet for around $60 which was auto darkening and I
wish I'd spent more.  The main weakness is the frame inside that tightens to
your head.  That should be heavy and well made.  The cheaper ones soon allow
the helmet to fall down, don't hold it up tight and just aren't worth it.
gary n.

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Thu May  3 19:13:32 2012
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Thu, 3 May 2012 18:13:32 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] tr-6 surrey top?
Message-ID: <1336094012.64148.YahooMailNeo@web65501.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

Just received my 6-pack newsletter/mag. and noticed in the article "Patients
Aid Doctor" pg. 12 that Ken Dolhonde is standing beside his tr-6 surrey top. 
I've seen pictures of these on tr-4's but never a tr-6.  Were they available
and do they ever show up at car shows?  I've never seen one before in a
picture or at a show.  Just wondering if they ever come available to buy.
thanks!

gary n.

From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com  Thu May  3 19:45:39 2012
From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad)
Date: Thu, 3 May 2012 18:45:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] questions for the list
In-Reply-To: <B8E897CA-2376-44B3-A6C0-BF3F16498836@verizon.net>
References: <1336056051.97355.YahooMailNeo@web113602.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<B8E897CA-2376-44B3-A6C0-BF3F16498836@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <1336095939.85139.YahooMailNeo@web120504.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

A faulty starter relay will also cause intermittent start issues.
 
Chad in
Tulsa
 

________________________________
 From: Dean Tetterton
<tr3a58 at verizon.net>
To: John Summers <rivers2hills at yahoo.com> 
Cc:
"triumphs at autox.team.net" <triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Thursday, May 3,
2012 6:08 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] questions for the list
  
John
           
First the easy part. You have a bad brake booster. Leaking air
when applying
the brake. You can
get a rebuilt one from Ted.

When you say it won't start,
is the starter turning and it won't fire or does
the starter not activate. If
the
starter will not start turning, it could be the 74 seat belt interlock
circuit
if it hasn't already been bypassed.
They required the drivers door
being shut, drivers seat belt fastened,
passenger seat belt fasterned if their
is a
passenger. Their were pressure sensors in the seats to tell if they were
occupied. Their is an easy bypass if you can do
electrical stuff. There is a
box with a buzzer in it near the glove box. There
is a plug with 12 wires
going into it. You can unplug it
and jumper pins 11 & 12 in the plug. Or
connect the white/red and white/orange
wires from the plug together. This will
allow the
starter relay to work without all the other conditions being met.
If this has already been done,The plug in back of the ignition switch could be
going.

Also sounds like your Weber DGV carbs are not set up correctly and
might not
have a working choke.

Dean Tetterton


On May 3, 2012, at 10:40 AM,
John Summers wrote:

> '74 TR6, Weber DGV carbs, Pertronix electronic
ignition, high torque
starter.
> I have learned to use starting fluid sprayed
into my air filters to get a
> nearly instant start.  Before, on a good day,
it could have taken several
> attempts and a lot of grinding to get ignition. 
Now, after a period of
years
> where I only had to worry about the car
starting maybe 6 times before it
would
> leave me stranded the # is down to 2
or 3 starts per trip.  I have no idea
> why.  Recently I was stalled in a
parking lot and put my hand on the back
of
> the starter switch and shook it
around and it started.  The next occurance
I
> did the same thing for 20
minutes and had to ride a tow truck home - where
> after unloading, the car
started right up.  Could it be the starter switch?
> Then yesterday a new
sound popped up.  When I apply the foot brake there is
> the sound of air
escaping over top of my feet.  The car still stops but
there
> is a noticeable
"hardness" to the brake pedal.  Something is going on here.
> I've had the car
since 1998. My 25th wedding anniversary gift that keeps on
> giving.  Or as I
like to describe it "my midlife crisis car, only I didn't
> know the car would
BE the crisis well into my 60's".     I'm starting to
lust
> after used
Nissans or Toyota's.  Stop me before I do something RATIONAL!!
> John
>
Summers
> Jacksonville, Fl.
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3a58 at verizon.net

**
triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com

From team.net at Daveola.com  Thu May  3 21:06:30 2012
From: team.net at Daveola.com (David Ljung Madison)
Date: Thu, 03 May 2012 20:06:30 -0700
Subject: [TR] Experience with PRIRace.com?
Message-ID: <E1SQ8t7-0000u1-Cv@davesource.com>

Looking into options for rebuilding my TR3 engine I came across:

  http://prirace.com/page/triumph-tr3-engines

Has anyone on the list used them for an engine rebuild?

Dave

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dave Ljung Madison          http://GetDave.com/                415.341.5555
--------------------------- 1+1=3 for large 1 -----------------------------

From mjkatona at gmail.com  Fri May  4 06:54:34 2012
From: mjkatona at gmail.com (Mike Katona)
Date: Fri, 4 May 2012 05:54:34 -0700
Subject: [TR] lost password
Message-ID: <CAG-8ucMMB3ygCcBgeR0-VxqTr=R5yt4A=X8R+HA5BEG8UcrA7A@mail.gmail.com>

lost password

-- 
retired, photographer, mule rider, lover of life
http://mjkatona.photoshop.com

From terallb at mbdfs.com  Fri May  4 07:28:23 2012
From: terallb at mbdfs.com (Terall Blalock)
Date: Fri, 4 May 2012 6:28:23 -0700
Subject: [TR] Dashboard template 74 TR6
Message-ID: <04BA1B4A0504061C1732009012@SPARKY>

I don't have enough left of original to make a template and really want to
make my own as a project with my grandson.  Does anyone know where I can buy a
template.

Terall D Blalock
Registered Representative

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Fri May  4 09:00:27 2012
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Fri, 04 May 2012 08:00:27 -0700
Subject: [TR] Experience with PRIRace.com?
In-Reply-To: <E1SQ8t7-0000u1-Cv@davesource.com>
References: <E1SQ8t7-0000u1-Cv@davesource.com>
Message-ID: <4FA3EF0B.6010302@gmail.com>

On 5/3/12 8:06 PM, David Ljung Madison wrote:
> Looking into options for rebuilding my TR3 engine I came across:
>
>    http://prirace.com/page/triumph-tr3-engines
>
> Has anyone on the list used them for an engine rebuild?
Not I.  But looking at their list of things they do and the price they 
ask my first thought is that they may not know the TR fours very well 
and my second thought is that you will still get a better rebuild from 
Greg Solow's engine Room in Santa Cruz for the price.  Since Greg races 
a Morgan and has had one for ever that is the one engine they know the 
most about.  It is THE place I trust to build a TR2-4A engine properly 
and to know how to address inherent weaknesses.

Any automotive machine shop can rebuild a TR engine and have it run at 
the end of the process.  But if you want the engine to run its best for 
an extended period of time, sometimes it is best to seek out someone who 
specialized in that particular engine.

Just my own biased opinion,

Teriann

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri May  4 12:15:40 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 4 May 2012 11:15:40 -0700
Subject: [TR] lost password
In-Reply-To: <CAG-8ucMMB3ygCcBgeR0-VxqTr=R5yt4A=X8R+HA5BEG8UcrA7A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAG-8ucMMB3ygCcBgeR0-VxqTr=R5yt4A=X8R+HA5BEG8UcrA7A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <040501cd2a21$ea3fa7a0$bebef6e0$@rr.com>

> lost password

Click on the link at the bottom of each message, which in your case should
read

http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mjkatona at gmail.com

That should lead to a web page, which has a button for "Password reminder".
Click on that, and your password will be emailed to your email address.
(Which is what prevents me from getting your password.)

-- Randall 

From pat.l at comcast.net  Fri May  4 14:08:45 2012
From: pat.l at comcast.net (Pat Ledford)
Date: Fri, 04 May 2012 16:08:45 -0400
Subject: [TR] tr-6 surrey top?
In-Reply-To: <1336094012.64148.YahooMailNeo@web65501.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <1336094012.64148.YahooMailNeo@web65501.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4FA4374D.3090704@comcast.net>

It is my understanding that the Surry top is for a TR 4 but can be made 
to fit a TR6.  I think you can still buy new ones in the UK, maybe Rimmers

Pat L

On 5/3/2012 9:13 PM, Gary Nafziger wrote:
> Just received my 6-pack newsletter/mag. and noticed in the article "Patients
> Aid Doctor" pg. 12 that Ken Dolhonde is standing beside his tr-6 surrey top.
> I've seen pictures of these on tr-4's but never a tr-6.  Were they available
> and do they ever show up at car shows?  I've never seen one before in a
> picture or at a show.  Just wondering if they ever come available to buy.
> thanks!
>
> gary n.
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pat.l at comcast.net

From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Fri May  4 17:22:55 2012
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Fri, 4 May 2012 19:22:55 -0400
Subject: [TR] tr-6 surrey top?
In-Reply-To: <4FA4374D.3090704@comcast.net>
References: <1336094012.64148.YahooMailNeo@web65501.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
	<4FA4374D.3090704@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <3022732B7AA1412AADBF19D1AA8B1668@UserTHINK>

I saw a TR6 with the Surrey Hard Top at the Mitty last weekend and it looked 
nice. I like the TR6 Hardtop on a TR6 better than the Surrey but of course 
you can't take the center section off.

JVV

-----Original Message----- 
From: Pat Ledford
Sent: Friday, May 04, 2012 4:08 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] tr-6 surrey top?

It is my understanding that the Surry top is for a TR 4 but can be made
to fit a TR6.  I think you can still buy new ones in the UK, maybe Rimmers

Pat L

On 5/3/2012 9:13 PM, Gary Nafziger wrote:
> Just received my 6-pack newsletter/mag. and noticed in the article 
> "Patients
> Aid Doctor" pg. 12 that Ken Dolhonde is standing beside his tr-6 surrey 
> top.
> I've seen pictures of these on tr-4's but never a tr-6.  Were they 
> available
> and do they ever show up at car shows?  I've never seen one before in a
> picture or at a show.  Just wondering if they ever come available to buy.
> thanks!
>
> gary n.
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Sat May  5 07:28:25 2012
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Sat, 5 May 2012 09:28:25 -0400
Subject: [TR] Broken rear stud for rocker arm assembly
Message-ID: <CANhzkePsH_LQpHC6ju=GdUMYG1WTANMs+QY0DysKLwaiKwGNTw@mail.gmail.com>

Hi list.
Took the tr4 out for a drive and about five miles out I heard a bit of
noise I thought might be associated with the transmission. Took it straight
home and parked it.

Few days later the trans level was a bit low so I used my new red harbor
freight oil can pump to fill it. After about 8 pumps I saw the hose fly off
and right down the transmission hole... a few hours later I managed to
extract it from the drain hole.... so I start the car and the noise seems
worse and I hear something like a backfire on throttle blip.   Timing,
nope. Pulled valve cover and saw rear stud nut was gone. Found nut and
washer and stud had snapped at the nut. I used a torque wrench when I
assembled so I don't know why it failed.

I stole a stud from the tr2 and reassembled and adjusted the valves.

No more backfiring, but a lot of racket.

As the rear pedestal is vital to the oil feed I imagine that it starved the
rocker arm of oil and the assy is toast.

Do you think I did additional damage to the head?

Thanks Chris

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat May  5 09:41:06 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 5 May 2012 08:41:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] Broken rear stud for rocker arm assembly
In-Reply-To: <CANhzkePsH_LQpHC6ju=GdUMYG1WTANMs+QY0DysKLwaiKwGNTw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANhzkePsH_LQpHC6ju=GdUMYG1WTANMs+QY0DysKLwaiKwGNTw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <011d01cd2ad5$7ca0dc50$0601a8c0@randall>

> As the rear pedestal is vital to the oil feed I imagine that 
> it starved the
> rocker arm of oil and the assy is toast.
> 
> Do you think I did additional damage to the head?

My guess is that something else is going on, not just lack of oil.  One of
my former TR3s had the oil passage to the head totally blocked (likely due
to improper cam bearing installation but I never tore it down to find out).
It was driven probably 10,000 miles that way (the pushrods were rusty!), and
while the wear was fairly severe, it was still running well enough when I
finally discovered the problem.

Unless you don't care what happens, I'd suggest pulling the head for
inspection.  I think you're going to find some foreign object in the
combustion chamber, that blocked a valve from opening and caused the stud to
snap.

Or you could try out one of the new bore scopes from HF.

-- Randall  

From tr6guy at cox.net  Sat May  5 14:52:16 2012
From: tr6guy at cox.net (Cox)
Date: Sat, 5 May 2012 16:52:16 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tr6 steering rack
Message-ID: <22C1D361-4639-4C5C-A590-A4E2C81A0A84@cox.net>

Anyone have any issues with a new quick ratio steering rack from Vicky Brit.
Nobody else seems to sell the quick ratio.
Thanks in advance,
Jim Henningsen
Ocala fl
75 TR6
62 TR4

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Sat May  5 15:37:11 2012
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Sat, 05 May 2012 17:37:11 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 Heater leak test
In-Reply-To: <DBCAF2AAB6D445588068C3E01BE1EBA6@bboffice>
References: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAAAokWe7nBZPoA+vt51ClezCgAAAEAAAALQFH73RyxdLtM91lmPo4q4BAAAAAA==@verizon.net>
	<DBCAF2AAB6D445588068C3E01BE1EBA6@bboffice>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAAAokWe7nBZPoA+vt51ClezCgAAAEAAAANSFLBeZu0NAjK1PjlZt1poBAAAAAA==@verizon.net>

Found a great radiator shop here in Tampa.  They did a pressure check on all
three cores I had.  Two - no leaks at all; the third - well - it will cost
about 40-60 to fix but not needed right now.  I'll set it on the shelf for
later thoughts.   This results in two complete heater units - one with a
brand new motor and the other a little 'tired'.  

Today it goes to its new 'home' and then the dash, gauges and all of the
electrical connections.  All have been tested both in/out of the dash.   It
really is getting closer and closer....

Thanks to all who offered suggestions.
Carl

1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 
Still being restored - but 2012 looks like the year..


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2012 11:56 AM
Subject: [TR] TR3 Heater leak test

I need to test the heater core before I install it.   Any do's don'ts?   Is
there any issue with hooking up a hose to both sides and let water flow
through?  I would think that it shouldn't be 'closed' at the other end
because I believe the pressure would be too high.

Thanks
Carl

From Harrymague at aol.com  Sat May  5 16:20:22 2012
From: Harrymague at aol.com (Harrymague at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 5 May 2012 18:20:22 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Tr6 steering rack
Message-ID: <1f834.384d2417.3cd701a6@aol.com>

I had the rack in my car for the last two years.  Great when  driving.  
Real bear when the car is slow or backing, but that is just the  non power 
steering.  I recommend it!!!  Only thing that bothers me is  there is no way to 
"grease" the gear.  Asked, but there seems to be no way  to grease.  My Two 
Cents. 
Harry Mague
1974 Tr6
Beavercreed, OH
 
 
In a message dated 5/5/2012 5:44:07 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
tr6guy at cox.net writes:

Anyone  have any issues with a new quick ratio steering rack from Vicky  
Brit.
Nobody else seems to sell the quick ratio.
Thanks in  advance,
Jim Henningsen
Ocala fl
75 TR6
62 TR4

**  triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From dconnitt at fuse.net  Sat May  5 19:35:38 2012
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Sat, 5 May 2012 21:35:38 -0400
Subject: [TR] Problems with my SU HS-6 carburetor(s)
Message-ID: <C87E9E39C0514671A1E648946C5891E0@DaveLaptop>

Hi List,
Well, I thought I was well on my way to finishing up the rebuild of my two SU
HS-6 carburetors on my TR4A IRS when I received the new SM needles..
I switched out the needle on the rear carburetor and no problems. I removed
the needle from the front carburetor piston and when I laid it down next to
the old one from the rear carburetor, In noticed it was about a quarter of an
inch shorter than the rear one!! It got worse when I installed the new SM
needle in the front carburetor piston and then dropped the piston back into
the front carburetor and it stuck about 3/4 of the way down. I didn't want to
force it down so off came the carburetors again.. I posted some pictures on my
website in the carburetor rebuild page but the long and short of it is that it
seems the needle is not centered in the hole for the main jet! I am not sure
what to try next. I think in the morning I will try and put a square next to
the needle in the piston and see if the hole is perpendicular to the base of
the piston. The needles are brand new and look straight.
If there is anybody out there that has rebuilt HS-6 carburetors, please take a
look at the pictures on my website and see what you think. If you need more
pictures let me know.
The website is http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a  In the nav panel go to Check my
Progress and click on the HS-6 link at the top. Scoll down to the bottom for
the pictures of the needles and main jet holes.

Thanks,
Dave Connitt

From ptegler at verizon.net  Sat May  5 22:06:09 2012
From: ptegler at verizon.net (ptegler)
Date: Sun, 06 May 2012 00:06:09 -0400
Subject: [TR] Problems with my SU HS-6 carburetor(s)
References: <C87E9E39C0514671A1E648946C5891E0@DaveLaptop>
Message-ID: <F3BFF499DA294C789F736A74DCD2F9F2@dragonlairii>

...what did you use to center the main jet body?
there are alignment tools that you place in the needle mount that sticks 
down into the jet so when you tighten the nut the jet guide tube is centered 
in the body.

Paul Tegler
ptegler at verizon.net
www.teglerizer.com

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt at fuse.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2012 9:35 PM
Subject: [TR] Problems with my SU HS-6 carburetor(s)


> Hi List,
> Well, I thought I was well on my way to finishing up the rebuild of my two 
> SU
> HS-6 carburetors on my TR4A IRS when I received the new SM needles..
> I switched out the needle on the rear carburetor and no problems. I 
> removed
> the needle from the front carburetor piston and when I laid it down next 
> to
> the old one from the rear carburetor, In noticed it was about a quarter of 
> an
> inch shorter than the rear one!! It got worse when I installed the new SM
> needle in the front carburetor piston and then dropped the piston back 
> into
> the front carburetor and it stuck about 3/4 of the way down. I didn't want 
> to
> force it down so off came the carburetors again.. I posted some pictures 
> on my
> website in the carburetor rebuild page but the long and short of it is 
> that it
> seems the needle is not centered in the hole for the main jet! I am not 
> sure
> what to try next. I think in the morning I will try and put a square next 
> to
> the needle in the piston and see if the hole is perpendicular to the base 
> of
> the piston. The needles are brand new and look straight.
> If there is anybody out there that has rebuilt HS-6 carburetors, please 
> take a
> look at the pictures on my website and see what you think. If you need 
> more
> pictures let me know.
> The website is http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a  In the nav panel go to 
> Check my
> Progress and click on the HS-6 link at the top. Scoll down to the bottom 
> for
> the pictures of the needles and main jet holes.
>
> Thanks,
> Dave Connitt
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net 

From dixie4.wales at virgin.net  Sun May  6 01:49:31 2012
From: dixie4.wales at virgin.net (ADRIAN DIX-DYER)
Date: Sun, 6 May 2012 08:49:31 +0100
Subject: [TR] Tr6 steering rack
In-Reply-To: <1f834.384d2417.3cd701a6@aol.com>
References: <1f834.384d2417.3cd701a6@aol.com>
Message-ID: <CAJbHsd-Z64C9CfhM06GxySLMAMvHy2oX_GNJgHuv6u_LJsEPEQ@mail.gmail.com>

You can manufacture your own a high ratio steering rack yourself by using
the internal rack and pinion from a Triumph Herald or possibly a Mk 3
Spitfire. This would give the required 2.5 turns lock to lock.
This was the method used in the 1960s and 70s by the Ford works rally team
in Europe on the Ford Escort. Yes, it fitted the Ford steering rack casing.
They even used the Herald steering coupling and marketed this coupling as a
superior modification for the Rallysport versions of the Escort at four
times the price of a Herald one!
As for the greasing issue this can only be done at the build stage and then
filled with a 1/10th of a pint of oil evenly split between both ends before
fastening up the rubber bellows.

Adrian TR4A CT 64306 O
Wales UK

On 5 May 2012 23:20, <Harrymague at aol.com> wrote:

> I had the rack in my car for the last two years.  Great when  driving.
> Real bear when the car is slow or backing, but that is just the  non power
> steering.  I recommend it!!!  Only thing that bothers me is  there is no
> way to
> "grease" the gear.  Asked, but there seems to be no way  to grease.  My Two
> Cents.
> Harry Mague
> 1974 Tr6
> Beavercreed, OH
>
>
> In a message dated 5/5/2012 5:44:07 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> tr6guy at cox.net writes:
>
> Anyone  have any issues with a new quick ratio steering rack from Vicky
> Brit.
> Nobody else seems to sell the quick ratio.
> Thanks in  advance,
> Jim Henningsen
> Ocala fl
> 75 TR6
> 62 TR4
>
> **  triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/harrymague at aol.com
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dixie4.wales at virgin.net

From ptegler at verizon.net  Sun May  6 02:20:42 2012
From: ptegler at verizon.net (ptegler)
Date: Sun, 06 May 2012 04:20:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] Hill CountryTriumph web site
Message-ID: <EB71EA0AD9454A56B23A064B59D54E87@dragonlairii>

Hey...anyone know anyone that has an address to anyone that maintains the Hill
Country Triumph website?
Their website has a trojan on it!
Trojan.JS.Redirector.VP    is coming up on three different scanners (I checked
with) after my AV software stopped the page from loading here.

Paul Tegler
ptegler at verizon.net
www.teglerizer.com

From wbeech at flash.net  Sun May  6 07:47:24 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sun, 6 May 2012 08:47:24 -0500
Subject: [TR] Hill CountryTriumph web site
In-Reply-To: <EB71EA0AD9454A56B23A064B59D54E87@dragonlairii>
References: <EB71EA0AD9454A56B23A064B59D54E87@dragonlairii>
Message-ID: <EF5DEE8623074F36AFF6649294241724@bboffice>

Paul,

Jim Icenhower [webmaster at hillcountrytriumphclub.org]

I checked the page, McAfee killed the harmful java script but allowed the
page to load.

Bill





-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of ptegler
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2012 3:21 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net; triumph-gt6-enthusiast at yahoogroups.com;
triumphgt6 at yahoogroups.com; nass at yahoogroups.com;
Triumph_GT6_Enthusiast at yahoogroups.com
Subject: [TR] Hill CountryTriumph web site

Hey...anyone know anyone that has an address to anyone that maintains the
Hill Country Triumph website?
Their website has a trojan on it!
Trojan.JS.Redirector.VP    is coming up on three different scanners (I
checked
with) after my AV software stopped the page from loading here.

Paul Tegler
ptegler at verizon.net
www.teglerizer.com

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From emanteno at comcast.net  Sun May  6 09:21:24 2012
From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey)
Date: Sun, 6 May 2012 10:21:24 -0500
Subject: [TR] Horn with a mind of its own
Message-ID: <CAFWFMyjgnAt=atPw-DpxhcmnwBLte1Ti5CvuHfKeOtBxs5_VjQ@mail.gmail.com>

I treated myself to a new Moto-Lita steering wheel a couple of weeks ago.
Since I installed it, the horns have
blown several times without pushing the horn button, usually when steering
to the left. This happened twice while we were
moving (pushing and steering) the car at our club tune-up clinic yesterday.
My car has air horns, and they are LOUD.

I know the horns are wired hot all of the time and that the horn button
provides the ground for the circuit. My old wheel and hub
assembly used a different horn contact design than the stock wheel and I
never experienced this.
The Moto-Lita uses the same system as the stock wheel, the spring loaded
bush that goes through the hub. I'm guessing that
the stock horn bush arrangement is more sensitive to whatever is causing
this.

Any and all thoughts/suggestions greatly appreciated.

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL

From spitlist at cox.net  Sun May  6 11:33:32 2012
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Sun, 6 May 2012 10:33:32 -0700
Subject: [TR] Horn with a mind of its own
In-Reply-To: <CAFWFMyjgnAt=atPw-DpxhcmnwBLte1Ti5CvuHfKeOtBxs5_VjQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFWFMyjgnAt=atPw-DpxhcmnwBLte1Ti5CvuHfKeOtBxs5_VjQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <E1D543B8A142476E8997D43E6BCFE7D1@Vista>

Irv, that sounds sooooooo familiar.  When it happened to me on my Spit, I
found that the problem was in the turn signal wiring.  When I turned the
wheel to a certain point. The horn shorted out against the turn signal
switch.  If you have slop in the steering shaft bushings, that could provide
enough play to cause this to happen.

Good luck,
Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Irv Korey
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2012 8:21 AM
To: TRiumphs
Subject: [TR] Horn with a mind of its own

I treated myself to a new Moto-Lita steering wheel a couple of weeks ago.
Since I installed it, the horns have
blown several times without pushing the horn button, usually when steering
to the left. This happened twice while we were
moving (pushing and steering) the car at our club tune-up clinic yesterday.
My car has air horns, and they are LOUD.

I know the horns are wired hot all of the time and that the horn button
provides the ground for the circuit. My old wheel and hub
assembly used a different horn contact design than the stock wheel and I
never experienced this.
The Moto-Lita uses the same system as the stock wheel, the spring loaded
bush that goes through the hub. I'm guessing that
the stock horn bush arrangement is more sensitive to whatever is causing
this.

Any and all thoughts/suggestions greatly appreciated.

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From greg at gelhar.com  Sun May  6 12:05:41 2012
From: greg at gelhar.com (greg at gelhar.com)
Date: Sun, 6 May 2012 14:05:41 -0400
Subject: [TR] Horn with a mind of its own
In-Reply-To: <CAFWFMyjgnAt=atPw-DpxhcmnwBLte1Ti5CvuHfKeOtBxs5_VjQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFWFMyjgnAt=atPw-DpxhcmnwBLte1Ti5CvuHfKeOtBxs5_VjQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6fc6d3af5c1b8822695cc32fa55a3c77.squirrel@email.accountsupport.com>

> ...the horns have blown several times without pushing the horn button,
> usually when steering to the left.....
> Any and all thoughts/suggestions greatly appreciated.
>
I had this problem on my 73 TR6. I made a new bushing for the top of the
steering column (sorry, I didn't record the dimensions) that eliminated
'play' in all directions. It was this movement that allowed the turn
signal clip to contact the horn ring and sound the horns on hard turns. As
an added benefit, I was able to move the turn signal switch in a bit and
now the turn signals never fail to self cancel.

From fishplate at charter.net  Sun May  6 12:06:28 2012
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff)
Date: Sun, 06 May 2012 14:06:28 -0400
Subject: [TR] Horn with a mind of its own
In-Reply-To: <CAFWFMyjgnAt=atPw-DpxhcmnwBLte1Ti5CvuHfKeOtBxs5_VjQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFWFMyjgnAt=atPw-DpxhcmnwBLte1Ti5CvuHfKeOtBxs5_VjQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4FA6BDA4.4010500@charter.net>

On 5/6/2012 11:21 AM, Irv Korey wrote:
> Any and all thoughts/suggestions greatly appreciated.

When I had this problem (on an old Volkswagen Bus), it was because the 
wire going down inside the steering column had lost some insulation, and 
was grounding inside the shaft.  Perhaps adding the new w somehow 
changed the wire so that it's a problem like that now.

You could remove the horn button, and see if ti still happens.

From dconnitt at fuse.net  Sun May  6 12:24:04 2012
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Sun, 6 May 2012 14:24:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] SU HS-6 needles
Message-ID: <28F3015FD68F40ABBE36142BC118D668@DaveLaptop>

Hi List,
Well, with the help of Bill Beech and Micheal Marr I was able to fix my SU
HS-6 problem with the front carb needle not dropping down all the way.  I just
had to center the jet and all is well. Next problem is how to remove some of
the slack in the throttle linkage were the bell crank between the carbs
converts the front/back motion to up/down. Kinda sloppy..
Thanks again!
Dave Connitt

From terryrs at comcast.net  Sun May  6 12:55:12 2012
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 6 May 2012 18:55:12 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Horn with a mind of its own
In-Reply-To: <E1D543B8A142476E8997D43E6BCFE7D1@Vista>
Message-ID: <15592681.37088.1336330512605.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Back to this, one question:

>FWIW, on my engine with the inadequate liner protrusion, I found that adding
>the 20 AWG "half hard" copper wire to a stock head gasket was easy and very
>effective.  Superglue didn't occur to me, so I used ordinary 'electronic'
>grade solder and a soldering gun. 

Randall, what size gun did you use?  I've always had a hard time heating a big surface with a gun enough to solder a wire to it.  

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire 

From deruiterville at hotmail.com  Sun May  6 14:37:42 2012
From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter)
Date: Sun, 6 May 2012 15:37:42 -0500
Subject: [TR] Horn with a mind of its own
In-Reply-To: <CAFWFMyjgnAt=atPw-DpxhcmnwBLte1Ti5CvuHfKeOtBxs5_VjQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFWFMyjgnAt=atPw-DpxhcmnwBLte1Ti5CvuHfKeOtBxs5_VjQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BAY150-W4700BC43FB2B5B7A4DFC51B9120@phx.gbl>

Hi Irv-

Yes, uncontrolled tooting can be embarrassing!  I had the same problem on my
TR4 - you may want to slightly pull the hub away from the column, that was my
problem - the motolita hub itself was touching the horn pickup, and it happens
if there is any play in the column bushings which is pretty common.  Loosen
the clamp at the firewall in the engine bay to move the inner/outer steering
column.  Just a 1/16-1/8" or so extra and you can eliminate the issue I
think.

Randy

> Date: Sun, 6 May 2012 10:21:24 -0500
> From: emanteno at comcast.net
> To: triumphs at Autox.Team.Net
> Subject: [TR] Horn with a mind of its own
>
> I treated myself to a new Moto-Lita steering wheel a couple of weeks ago.
> Since I installed it, the horns have
> blown several times without pushing the horn button, usually when steering
> to the left. This happened twice while we were
> moving (pushing and steering) the car at our club tune-up clinic yesterday.
> My car has air horns, and they are LOUD.

> Any and all thoughts/suggestions greatly appreciated.
>
> Irv Korey
> 74 TR6 CF22767U
> Highland Park, IL
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/deruiterville at hotmail.com

From dconnitt at fuse.net  Sun May  6 17:46:17 2012
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Sun, 6 May 2012 19:46:17 -0400
Subject: [TR] Ratco throttle linkage
Message-ID: <4F9EEC3D715A47E99AD6948074A786A8@DaveLaptop>

I was just looking for the RATCO cable throttle linkage and google can't find
them.
Interresting....
Dave Connitt

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Sun May  6 18:31:14 2012
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Sun, 6 May 2012 20:31:14 -0400
Subject: [TR] Horn with a mind of its own
In-Reply-To: <BAY150-W4700BC43FB2B5B7A4DFC51B9120@phx.gbl>
References: <CAFWFMyjgnAt=atPw-DpxhcmnwBLte1Ti5CvuHfKeOtBxs5_VjQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<BAY150-W4700BC43FB2B5B7A4DFC51B9120@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <CANhzkeM61Zr4_bczUmwyve6p1+quw40nj1bus8jA1+fXVg991Q@mail.gmail.com>

second that. I autocrossed a few years ago and the horn went off on every
left turn That was the highlight of my run - unfortunately.

On Sun, May 6, 2012 at 4:37 PM, Randy and Valerie DeRuiter <
deruiterville at hotmail.com> wrote:

> Hi Irv-
>
> Yes, uncontrolled tooting can be embarrassing!  I had the same problem on
> my
> TR4 - you may want to slightly pull the hub away from the column, that was
> my
> problem - the motolita hub itself was touching the horn pickup, and it
> happens
> if there is any play in the column bushings which is pretty common.  Loosen
> the clamp at the firewall in the engine bay to move the inner/outer
> steering
> column.  Just a 1/16-1/8" or so extra and you can eliminate the issue I
> think.
>
> Randy
>
> > Date: Sun, 6 May 2012 10:21:24 -0500
> > From: emanteno at comcast.net
> > To: triumphs at Autox.Team.Net
> > Subject: [TR] Horn with a mind of its own
> >
> > I treated myself to a new Moto-Lita steering wheel a couple of weeks ago.
> > Since I installed it, the horns have
> > blown several times without pushing the horn button, usually when
> steering
> > to the left. This happened twice while we were
> > moving (pushing and steering) the car at our club tune-up clinic
> yesterday.
> > My car has air horns, and they are LOUD.
>
> > Any and all thoughts/suggestions greatly appreciated.
> >
> > Irv Korey
> > 74 TR6 CF22767U
> > Highland Park, IL
> >
> > ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/deruiterville at hotmail.com
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ccsimonsen at gmail.com

From gpr at key-men.com  Sun May  6 19:15:29 2012
From: gpr at key-men.com (George Richardson)
Date: Sun, 06 May 2012 21:15:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] Ratco throttle linkage
In-Reply-To: <4F9EEC3D715A47E99AD6948074A786A8@DaveLaptop>
References: <4F9EEC3D715A47E99AD6948074A786A8@DaveLaptop>
Message-ID: <4FA72231.8050302@key-men.com>

Interestingly, RATCO no longer seems to have a web site. The every time 
I've tried it over the last month or so, I get redirected to various 
other sites.

Anyone know what happened?

George Richardson
Key Men - Keys for Classics
www.key-men.com


On 5/6/2012 7:46 PM, Dave Connitt wrote:
> I was just looking for the RATCO cable throttle linkage and google can't find
> them.
> Interresting....
> Dave Connitt
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/gpr at key-men.com

From aljlthomson at charter.net  Sun May  6 19:24:19 2012
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson)
Date: Sun, 6 May 2012 21:24:19 -0400
Subject: [TR] Ratco throttle linkage
In-Reply-To: <4F9EEC3D715A47E99AD6948074A786A8@DaveLaptop>
References: <4F9EEC3D715A47E99AD6948074A786A8@DaveLaptop>
Message-ID: <002801cd2bf0$203a9cf0$60afd6d0$@charter.net>

Dave - Try the following -

www.rat-co.com 
or
http://www.sites.google.com/site/tonyratco/

Alex Thomson


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Connitt
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2012 7:46 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Ratco throttle linkage

I was just looking for the RATCO cable throttle linkage and google can't
find them.
Interresting....
Dave Connitt

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net

From ElangTR4 at aol.com  Sun May  6 19:32:38 2012
From: ElangTR4 at aol.com (ElangTR4 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 6 May 2012 21:32:38 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] tr-6 surrey top?
Message-ID: <19999.4a659b9c.3cd88036@aol.com>

Pat,
The surrey top will fit a TR6, the tubs are essentially the same. There's a 
 guy in my neighborhood who's got one on his TR6. Looks kinda cool, I  did 
a double take the first time I saw it.
Eric L.
71 TR6

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun May  6 19:34:17 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 6 May 2012 18:34:17 -0700
Subject: [TR] Horn with a mind of its own
In-Reply-To: <15592681.37088.1336330512605.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <E1D543B8A142476E8997D43E6BCFE7D1@Vista>
	<15592681.37088.1336330512605.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <026001cd2bf1$853a8510$0601a8c0@randall>

> Randall, what size gun did you use?  I've always had a hard 
> time heating a big surface with a gun enough to solder a wire to it.  

I believe it was rated at 140 or 150 watts.  Unfortunately, it seems I've
managed to lose it after all these years, so I bought a new one the other
day (only gun they had, rated 200 watts).

But the copper face of the stock gasket is pretty thin, and you only need to
get a small area hot enough to melt solder.  It didn't seem to be a problem
at all.

Clean the surface thoroughly first, of course.  I used Tarn-X this time,
which seems to work fine.  Last time, I scrubbed with a Scotch-Brite pad and
then smeared the area with soldering flux; which also worked fine.

Here's a photo:
http://goo.gl/WRV2C

I'll mention these items just because someone else said they didn't know:

1) The tip of the gun should be in good condition, with large flat area to
contact the head gasket and a clean bright layer of solder (aka tinning).
If it is pitted or blackened, dress it back to shape with a file and then
re-tin with solder.  Mine tend to erode into a U-shape over time that
doesn't transfer heat well.  If there isn't enough metal left to dress to
shape, buy a new tip (they're only a few dollars).

2) Avoid lead-free solder if you can.  It's much harder to work with, IMO.
Rosin-core "eutectic" (aka 63/37) is the hot setup (though it's more
expensive than solid core plumbing solder).  Kester is my favorite brand,
but Alpha is good, too.

3) Weller guns (only kind I know) have a pair of nuts or setscrews that hold
the tip to the gun.  It's worthwhile to occasionally loosen and retighten
those, as the copper tip tends to develop a layer of corrosion that will
impede current flow (and hence reduce heat).

-- Randall  

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Sun May  6 19:46:29 2012
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Sun, 6 May 2012 21:46:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] Broken rear stud for rocker arm assembly
In-Reply-To: <011d01cd2ad5$7ca0dc50$0601a8c0@randall>
References: <CANhzkePsH_LQpHC6ju=GdUMYG1WTANMs+QY0DysKLwaiKwGNTw@mail.gmail.com>
	<011d01cd2ad5$7ca0dc50$0601a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <CANhzkeMkcPWgi=mzCy8MX7OoeX6x1GYZkQF9v2SaySBqdVmnUw@mail.gmail.com>

OK. Here's an update. I'm gonna share the whole experience.  Gonna regret
it later. Motor is making bad noises.

That being said, I'm not at solution stage yet. But I'm having fun getting
there.

So I said I had a bad noise.

Since then I've found a few issues (sheepishly...)

I thought i needed to add fluif to the transmission and had the hose blow
into the transmission.  Got past that.

I then saw that one of the manifold to headpipe nuts had backed off.  Took
care of that.

I pulled the Rocker assy and it seemed OK. Compression check was good
(155,162,167,165).

I then found the belt seemed loose. On the way to tighten it, i pondered
why it would be loose and shortly saw the water pump nut had sheared
off.... and also destroyed the water pump pulley.... I greased up the old
tr2 pump (love the grease fitting) and put it on (surprised at how freely
it turns).  I  The pulley is messed up and I'll need to go to my stash and
pull one. I've put the messed up one on it on there in the meantime.

So why did the rocker arm stud shear off? I went back to the rocker shaft
and it seemed in good shape and no noticible play. I did see one push rod
at number 4 that appeared to wobble when I rotated it.

That's when I really screwed up. I pulled the push rod and could tell the
lifter was stuck to it. I shook and wiggled and felt it had dropped back
into it's hole. Nope. It decided to lay sideways.... there is alot of room
for unrestrained lifters to flop about in a tractor engine.  Took an hour
and three beers to get it back in the hole. (Not going there ) buttoned
back up and the noise is still there.

I then pulled the head and all looks good.  Now i'm kicking myself for not
taking the belt off to eliminate the water pump and alternator first.....

From spitlist at cox.net  Sun May  6 20:33:41 2012
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Sun, 6 May 2012 19:33:41 -0700
Subject: [TR] Ratco throttle linkage
In-Reply-To: <4F9EEC3D715A47E99AD6948074A786A8@DaveLaptop>
References: <4F9EEC3D715A47E99AD6948074A786A8@DaveLaptop>
Message-ID: <D249A9E593F04373A08F4727A99D7529@Vista>

Their web site seems to be down.  Maybe they are having server problems.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Connitt
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2012 4:46 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Ratco throttle linkage

I was just looking for the RATCO cable throttle linkage and google can't
find
them.
Interresting....
Dave Connitt

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net

From mhooper at indiefilmnet.com  Sun May  6 23:15:55 2012
From: mhooper at indiefilmnet.com (Mark Hooper)
Date: Mon, 07 May 2012 01:15:55 -0400
Subject: [TR] Ratco throttle linkage
In-Reply-To: <2169271c.1cd2bfb.cb467e7.32a6@charter.net>
References: <2169271c.1cd2bfb.cb467e7.32a6@charter.net>
Message-ID: <WC20120507051555.000008@indiefilmnet.com>

When I look at it, the web site has prices on everything but the linkage. 


Mark

72 TR6


-----Original Message-----
 From: Alex & Janet Thomson <aljlthomson at charter.net>
 To: 'Dave Connitt' <dconnitt at fuse.net>, triumphs at autox.team.net
 Date: Sun, 06 May 2012 22:39:20 -0400
 Subject: Re: [TR] Ratco throttle linkage


Dave - Try the following -

 www.rat-co.com
 or
 http://www.sites.google.com/site/tonyratco/

 Alex Thomson


 -----Original Message-----
 From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
 [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Connitt
 Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2012 7:46 PM
 To: triumphs at autox.team.net
 Subject: [TR] Ratco throttle linkage

 I was just looking for the RATCO cable throttle linkage and google can't
 find them.
 Interresting....
 Dave Connitt

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon May  7 00:48:09 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 6 May 2012 23:48:09 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR 2000 FS near Los Angeles
Message-ID: <027901cd2c1d$5de90b40$0601a8c0@randall>

Spotted on Craigslist:

1966 Triumph 2000 Sedan Parts Car. Nearly complete but no engine or trans.
Rust free California car. Could be restored or candidate for engine
conversion. $650.00 obo. 

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sgv/pts/3000489932.html

-- Randall 

From aljlthomson at charter.net  Mon May  7 04:30:18 2012
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson)
Date: Mon, 7 May 2012 06:30:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] Ratco throttle linkage
In-Reply-To: <WC20120507051555.000008@indiefilmnet.com>
References: <2169271c.1cd2bfb.cb467e7.32a6@charter.net>
	<WC20120507051555.000008@indiefilmnet.com>
Message-ID: <000801cd2c3c$65f07610$31d16230$@charter.net>

Check out the "price list"  in the "Performance Upgrade" section of the
website. The very first item is the carb linkage kit - $99.95

Alex Thomson

From: Mark Hooper [mailto:mhooper at indiefilmnet.com] 
Sent: Monday, May 07, 2012 1:16 AM
To: Alex & Janet Thomson; 'Dave Connitt'; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Ratco throttle linkage

 

When I look at it, the web site has prices on everything but the linkage.

 

Mark

72 TR6

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Alex & Janet Thomson <aljlthomson at charter.net>
To: 'Dave Connitt' <dconnitt at fuse.net>, triumphs at autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 06 May 2012 22:39:20 -0400
Subject: Re: [TR] Ratco throttle linkage

Dave - Try the following -

www.rat-co.com
or
http://www.sites.google.com/site/tonyratco/

Alex Thomson


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Connitt
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2012 7:46 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Ratco throttle linkage

I was just looking for the RATCO cable throttle linkage and google can't
find them.
Interresting....
Dave Connitt

From terryrs at comcast.net  Mon May  7 05:28:14 2012
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 7 May 2012 11:28:14 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Order of Engine Assembly
In-Reply-To: <026001cd2bf1$853a8510$0601a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <358005238.56592.1336390094564.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

When reassembling the engine, I seem to have put the number 2 liner in the #1 engine slot, and #2 into #1.  I hate to take it apart because I'm afraid I'll bugger up the figure 8 gaskets.

So...new bearings, new rings, honed liners,ground crankshfat...just how critical is it that these go in the same holes?  Isn't it the same as if I were buying new liners?

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A  TS 58667
New Hampshire

From mhooper at indiefilmnet.com  Mon May  7 06:34:19 2012
From: mhooper at indiefilmnet.com (Mark Hooper)
Date: Mon, 07 May 2012 08:34:19 -0400
Subject: [TR] Ratco throttle linkage
In-Reply-To: <f433df34.1cd2c3c.e63c941.3466@charter.net>
References: <f433df34.1cd2c3c.e63c941.3466@charter.net>
Message-ID: <WC20120507123419.76000F@indiefilmnet.com>

My Baaaaaaad!    :^)


Mark


-----Original Message-----
 From: Alex & Janet Thomson <aljlthomson at charter.net>
 To: mhooper at indiefilmnet.com, 'Dave Connitt' <dconnitt at fuse.net>,  
triumphs at autox.team.net
 Date: Mon, 07 May 2012 06:30:49 -0400
 Subject: RE: [TR] Ratco throttle linkage



Check out the "price list"  in the "Performance Upgrade" section of the 
website. The very first item is the carb linkage kit - $99.95

Alex Thomson



From: Mark Hooper [mailto:mhooper at indiefilmnet.com]
Sent: Monday, May 07, 2012 1:16 AM
To: Alex & Janet Thomson; 'Dave Connitt'; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Ratco throttle linkage

 


When I look at it, the web site has prices on everything but the linkage.


 


Mark


72 TR6


 

-----Original Message-----
From: Alex & Janet Thomson <aljlthomson at charter.net>
To: 'Dave Connitt' <dconnitt at fuse.net>, triumphs at autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 06 May 2012 22:39:20 -0400
Subject: Re: [TR] Ratco throttle linkage


Dave - Try the following -

www.rat-co.com
or
http://www.sites.google.com/site/tonyratco/

Alex Thomson


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Connitt
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2012 7:46 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Ratco throttle linkage

I was just looking for the RATCO cable throttle linkage and google can't
find them.
Interresting....
Dave Connitt

From guy at genfiniti.com  Mon May  7 07:18:48 2012
From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins)
Date: Mon, 7 May 2012 08:18:48 -0500
Subject: [TR] Order of Engine Assembly
In-Reply-To: <358005238.56592.1336390094564.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <358005238.56592.1336390094564.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <D9C48152-D0F2-44BF-B5BC-8E2C2612B89A@genfiniti.com>

Terry,

The pistons/liners do not come as a strict pairing (unlike the piston and dome
for SU carbs), therefore I do not believe it matters.
Best of luck on your rebuild.  I did my own as well, and so far no major
issues.

On May 7, 2012, at 6:28 AM, terryrs at comcast.net wrote:

> When reassembling the engine, I seem to have put the number 2 liner in the
#1 engine slot, and #2 into #1.  I hate to take it apart because I'm afraid
I'll bugger up the figure 8 gaskets.
>
> So...new bearings, new rings, honed liners,ground crankshfat...just how
critical is it that these go in the same holes?  Isn't it the same as if I
were buying new liners?
>
> Terry Smith, '59 TR3A  TS 58667
> New Hampshire
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/guy at genfiniti.com

From trdoctor at aol.com  Mon May  7 09:37:43 2012
From: trdoctor at aol.com (Sam Clark)
Date: Mon, 7 May 2012 10:37:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] Ratco Throttle Linkage
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1478.1336367727.29715.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.1478.1336367727.29715.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <2FFEA153-DF88-493A-A281-60979B2C582C@aol.com>

I found the website for Ratco but, unfortunately, it won't solve my problem.
I have a '72 GT6 with Strombergs and it doesn't have the same linkage as the
TR6 or earlier GT6.  There is not a cross shaft but, instead, a cable pull
that comes from the pedal across the top of the engine to a center top pull.
The only adjustment is for play in the linkage.  The problem I have is that I
can't get full open on the butterflies.  Instead I get about 60%.  Any
suggestions?
Sam
On May 7, 2012, at 12:15 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> From: "Alex & Janet Thomson" <aljlthomson at charter.net>
> To: "'Dave Connitt'" <dconnitt at fuse.net>, <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] Ratco throttle linkage
> Message-ID: <002801cd2bf0$203a9cf0$60afd6d0$@charter.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Dave - Try the following -
>
> www.rat-co.com
> or
> http://www.sites.google.com/site/tonyratco/
>
> Alex Thomson
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Connitt
> Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2012 7:46 PM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] Ratco throttle linkage
>
> I was just looking for the RATCO cable throttle linkage and google can't
> find them.
> Interresting....
> Dave Connitt

From eoot at citlink.net  Mon May  7 12:30:15 2012
From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot)
Date: Mon, 7 May 2012 14:30:15 -0400
Subject: [TR] Slow idle drop
Message-ID: <393A034E35DE40A9ABC6C86FA02E9EEF@Office>

I recently installed professionally rebuilt ZS carbs on late TR6 engine. I'm
having an issue I hope to get some advice on.  After running at speed, say
2500 to 3000 rpm, and then coming to stop, the rpm is very slow to drop to
normal idle.  I would say it takes about 10 seconds to settle down. The
problem is also evident when up shifiting, as the rpm stays high between
gears.  I have inspected the linkage and don't find that it is hanging up
anywhere. Is it possible though that it could be something with the way I
reinstalled the linkage?  Or could it be that the vacumn advance is not
functioning properly, or????

Looking forward to suggestions.
TIA
Ed

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon May  7 13:17:41 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 7 May 2012 12:17:41 -0700
Subject: [TR] Ratco Throttle Linkage
In-Reply-To: <2FFEA153-DF88-493A-A281-60979B2C582C@aol.com>
References: <mailman.1478.1336367727.29715.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<2FFEA153-DF88-493A-A281-60979B2C582C@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000701cd2c86$131622b0$39426810$@rr.com>

> The problem I have is
> that I
> can't get full open on the butterflies.  Instead I get about 60%.  Any
> suggestions?

You'll have to either shorten the lever arm at the carbs, or make it longer
at the pedal.  But first check for any lost motion, like a lever slipping on
its shaft or something.

-- Randall 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon May  7 13:35:29 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 7 May 2012 12:35:29 -0700
Subject: [TR] Order of Engine Assembly
In-Reply-To: <358005238.56592.1336390094564.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <026001cd2bf1$853a8510$0601a8c0@randall>
	<358005238.56592.1336390094564.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <000c01cd2c88$9006c6b0$b0145410$@rr.com>

> So...new bearings, new rings, honed liners,ground crankshfat...just how
> critical is it that these go in the same holes?  Isn't it the same as
> if I were buying new liners?

Not exactly the same, since the piston and liner will have worn somewhat
together.  But I wouldn't worry about it.

-- Randall 

From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com  Mon May  7 14:19:17 2012
From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (Brian Induni)
Date: Mon, 7 May 2012 13:19:17 -0700
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 5, Issue 196
In-Reply-To: <mailman.19.1336413603.9766.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.19.1336413603.9766.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <002101cd2c8e$ae13e510$0a3baf30$@roadrunner.com>

Terry,

I'm assuming you are re-using the original liners & pistons. If so, then the
pistons and the liners are "matched" by wear and you could run in to trouble
mixing them up. Having homed them doesn't make new again, it just removes
some of the ridges and imperfections. Each piston/liner combo is going to
wear slightly different. Did you keep the piston with the liner, but just
put the set to a different spot? If so, I don't see a problem as long as you
put in new rings and bearings.

My 2 pence worth.

Brian
------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Mon, 7 May 2012 11:28:14 +0000 (UTC)
From: terryrs at comcast.net
To: TRiumphs <triumphs at Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: [TR] Order of Engine Assembly
Message-ID:
	
<358005238.56592.1336390094564.JavaMail.root at sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.com
cast.net>
	
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

When reassembling the engine, I seem to have put the number 2 liner in the
#1 engine slot, and #2 into #1.  I hate to take it apart because I'm afraid
I'll bugger up the figure 8 gaskets.

So...new bearings, new rings, honed liners,ground crankshfat...just how
critical is it that these go in the same holes?  Isn't it the same as if I
were buying new liners?

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A  TS 58667
New Hampshire

From guy at genfiniti.com  Mon May  7 14:42:14 2012
From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins)
Date: Mon, 7 May 2012 15:42:14 -0500
Subject: [TR] Slow idle drop
In-Reply-To: <393A034E35DE40A9ABC6C86FA02E9EEF@Office>
References: <393A034E35DE40A9ABC6C86FA02E9EEF@Office>
Message-ID: <7F0D407E-19BC-41A7-9E69-1548FD6763F6@genfiniti.com>

Ed,

I've had this happen for two different reasons.

The first was that the advance on the dizzy just wouldn't "let go", so the
idle range stayed in the advance range.
This meant I had to retard the timing a bit so that the car could idle
normally.

The second involved the choke linkage.  Eventually I learned to tighten BOTH
the throttle linkage and the choke linkage with the engine running, so I would
notice any idle changes as I tightened.
This assumes the choke cable is already in and tight.

Hope it helps.



On May 7, 2012, at 1:30 PM, Ed Oot wrote:

> I recently installed professionally rebuilt ZS carbs on late TR6 engine.
I'm
> having an issue I hope to get some advice on.  After running at speed, say
> 2500 to 3000 rpm, and then coming to stop, the rpm is very slow to drop to
> normal idle.  I would say it takes about 10 seconds to settle down. The
> problem is also evident when up shifiting, as the rpm stays high between
> gears.  I have inspected the linkage and don't find that it is hanging up
> anywhere. Is it possible though that it could be something with the way I
> reinstalled the linkage?  Or could it be that the vacumn advance is not
> functioning properly, or????
>
> Looking forward to suggestions.
> TIA
> Ed
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/guy at genfiniti.com

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon May  7 14:56:28 2012
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 7 May 2012 16:56:28 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Slow idle drop
Message-ID: <26a5c.33e9c20e.3cd990fc@cs.com>

It is more likely to be the vacuum operated over-run valves.  They are 
mounted on the side of the carb next to the throttle shaft.  Their job is to 
open up with vacuum gets high enough to cause excessive emissions.  There is a 
diaghram inside and reacts to the vacuum and opens a valve against an 
opposing spring.  If the spring tension is set too low it will open prematurely 
and close slowly.

You can identify them by the small tower that extends straight out with an 
adjust screw in the middle.  The proper way to adjust these is with a vacuum 
gauge on the car so your rebuilder may not have been able to adjust them 
properly.  Try loosening up the lock nut and turning the screw in a half turn 
or so and see if that changes anything.

Good luck.

Dave

In a message dated 5/7/2012 2:39:53 PM Central Daylight Time, 
eoot at citlink.net writes: 
> I recently installed professionally rebuilt ZS carbs on late TR6 engine. 
> I'm
> having an issue I hope to get some advice on.  After running at speed, say
> 2500 to 3000 rpm, and then coming to stop, the rpm is very slow to drop to
> normal idle.  I would say it takes about 10 seconds to settle down. The
> problem is also evident when up shifiting, as the rpm stays high between
> gears.  I have inspected the linkage and don't find that it is hanging up
> anywhere. Is it possible though that it could be something with the way I
> reinstalled the linkage?  Or could it be that the vacumn advance is not
> functioning properly, or????

From aljlthomson at charter.net  Mon May  7 15:13:05 2012
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson)
Date: Mon, 7 May 2012 17:13:05 -0400
Subject: [TR] Ratco Throttle Linkage
In-Reply-To: <2FFEA153-DF88-493A-A281-60979B2C582C@aol.com>
References: <mailman.1478.1336367727.29715.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<2FFEA153-DF88-493A-A281-60979B2C582C@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000c01cd2c96$31f92320$95eb6960$@charter.net>

Maybe the folks at SpitBits could help.
http://www.spitbits.com/

Alex Thomson



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Sam Clark
Sent: Monday, May 07, 2012 11:38 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Ratco Throttle Linkage

I found the website for Ratco but, unfortunately, it won't solve my problem.
I have a '72 GT6 with Strombergs and it doesn't have the same linkage as the
TR6 or earlier GT6.  There is not a cross shaft but, instead, a cable pull
that comes from the pedal across the top of the engine to a center top pull.
The only adjustment is for play in the linkage.  The problem I have is that
I can't get full open on the butterflies.  Instead I get about 60%.  Any
suggestions?
Sam
On May 7, 2012, at 12:15 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> From: "Alex & Janet Thomson" <aljlthomson at charter.net>
> To: "'Dave Connitt'" <dconnitt at fuse.net>, <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] Ratco throttle linkage
> Message-ID: <002801cd2bf0$203a9cf0$60afd6d0$@charter.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Dave - Try the following -
>
> www.rat-co.com
> or
> http://www.sites.google.com/site/tonyratco/
>
> Alex Thomson
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Connitt
> Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2012 7:46 PM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] Ratco throttle linkage
>
> I was just looking for the RATCO cable throttle linkage and google 
> can't find them.
> Interresting....
> Dave Connitt

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net

From McGaheyRx at aol.com  Mon May  7 15:40:35 2012
From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 7 May 2012 17:40:35 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Slow idle drop
Message-ID: <3cc70.4e1ce2aa.3cd99b52@aol.com>

Move the throttle linkage by hand and watch for proper return spring action 
 when you let go
 
You should have a return spring on each carb  and a return spring on the 
throttle linkage.
 
A friend had a similar problem and found the return spring missing from one 
 of his 2 rebuilt carbs.
 
If it isn't that, I'd remove air filters - stick finger in mouth of carb,  
lift air valve with finger, make sure air valve drops quickly and firmly 
down  when you release it.
 
Hope this helps.
 
Cheers,
Jack Mc
 
 
 
 
 
In a message dated 5/7/2012 3:39:55 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
eoot at citlink.net writes:

I  recently installed professionally rebuilt ZS carbs on late TR6 engine.  
I'm
having an issue I hope to get some advice on.  After running at  speed, say
2500 to 3000 rpm, and then coming to stop, the rpm is very slow  to drop to
normal idle.  I would say it takes about 10 seconds to  settle down. The
problem is also evident when up shifiting, as the rpm  stays high between
gears.  I have inspected the linkage and don't find  that it is hanging up
anywhere. Is it possible though that it could be  something with the way I
reinstalled the linkage?  Or could it be that  the vacumn advance is not
functioning properly, or????

Looking  forward to suggestions.
TIA
Ed

** triumphs at autox.team.net  **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:  http://autox.team.net/mai
lman/options/triumphs/mcgaheyrx at aol.com

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Mon May  7 16:54:29 2012
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Mon, 7 May 2012 17:54:29 -0500
Subject: [TR] Order of Engine Assembly
In-Reply-To: <D9C48152-D0F2-44BF-B5BC-8E2C2612B89A@genfiniti.com>
References: <358005238.56592.1336390094564.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<D9C48152-D0F2-44BF-B5BC-8E2C2612B89A@genfiniti.com>
Message-ID: <68F11AB5620140EFB278012E625B1872@GregPC>

        As the others have said, should work, as I recall from a 4 cylinder 
rebuild many years ago, the liners are supposed to sit ever so slightly 
proud of the block, the manuals have the specs, should check to make sure 
they are within spec there, shouldn't matter but slight variations in the 
liners or block could make a difference.

Greg Lemon
68 TR250 

From dconnitt at fuse.net  Mon May  7 18:11:17 2012
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Mon, 7 May 2012 20:11:17 -0400
Subject: [TR] Ratco throttle cable
Message-ID: <7FC03F1020534232B2156CFBD5E93A2D@DaveLaptop>

Thanks to all regarding locating the Ratco throttle cable website.
Dave Connitt

From tr6parts at charter.net  Mon May  7 18:17:05 2012
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore)
Date: Mon, 7 May 2012 20:17:05 -0400
Subject: [TR] brake pressure switch O-rings
References: <3cc70.4e1ce2aa.3cd99b52@aol.com>
Message-ID: <828D57CD69AC4C6B9A24D9B419F81B30@Alan>

Anybody have any ideas on where to get O-rings for the TR6 brake pressure 
switch, that are brake fluid friendly.

I know I can go to Ace and get O-rings, but its the compatability question.

The local auto parts stores don't have..

Moss has a repair kit  (181-995), but $15.00 plus shipping for just two 
little o-rings seams a bit much.
A couple of years ago they were $8.95.

Al 

From ptegler at verizon.net  Mon May  7 18:37:58 2012
From: ptegler at verizon.net (ptegler)
Date: Mon, 07 May 2012 20:37:58 -0400
Subject: [TR] Ratco Throttle Linkage
References: <mailman.1478.1336367727.29715.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<2FFEA153-DF88-493A-A281-60979B2C582C@aol.com>
	<000c01cd2c96$31f92320$95eb6960$@charter.net>
Message-ID: <DD0AB59D6C934EB98C86FDDF75BC94C4@dragonlairii>

yep... bend your pedal arm and adjust the stop behind the pedal so it 
travels farther

Paul Tegler
ptegler at verizon.net
www.teglerizer.com
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Alex & Janet Thomson" <aljlthomson at charter.net>
To: "'Sam Clark'" <trdoctor at aol.com>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 07, 2012 5:13 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Ratco Throttle Linkage


> Maybe the folks at SpitBits could help.
> http://www.spitbits.com/
>
> Alex Thomson
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Sam Clark
> Sent: Monday, May 07, 2012 11:38 AM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] Ratco Throttle Linkage
>
> I found the website for Ratco but, unfortunately, it won't solve my 
> problem.
> I have a '72 GT6 with Strombergs and it doesn't have the same linkage as 
> the
> TR6 or earlier GT6.  There is not a cross shaft but, instead, a cable pull
> that comes from the pedal across the top of the engine to a center top 
> pull.
> The only adjustment is for play in the linkage.  The problem I have is 
> that
> I can't get full open on the butterflies.  Instead I get about 60%.  Any
> suggestions?
> Sam
> On May 7, 2012, at 12:15 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:
>
>> From: "Alex & Janet Thomson" <aljlthomson at charter.net>
>> To: "'Dave Connitt'" <dconnitt at fuse.net>, <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>> Subject: Re: [TR] Ratco throttle linkage
>> Message-ID: <002801cd2bf0$203a9cf0$60afd6d0$@charter.net>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>>
>> Dave - Try the following -
>>
>> www.rat-co.com
>> or
>> http://www.sites.google.com/site/tonyratco/
>>
>> Alex Thomson
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
>> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Connitt
>> Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2012 7:46 PM
>> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
>> Subject: [TR] Ratco throttle linkage
>>
>> I was just looking for the RATCO cable throttle linkage and google
>> can't find them.
>> Interresting....
>> Dave Connitt
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net 

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Mon May  7 20:12:54 2012
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (glemon at neb.rr.com)
Date: Tue, 8 May 2012 2:12:54 +0000
Subject: [TR] brake pressure switch O-rings
In-Reply-To: <828D57CD69AC4C6B9A24D9B419F81B30@Alan>
Message-ID: <20120508021254.NO0MX.122959.root@hrndva-web09-z02>

I got mine at NAPA o-ring size 008 they assured me they were brake fluid resistant nitrile if I recall right.  

Also Google buckeye triumphs look in the tech session for pwda rebuild.

Greg Lemon

---- Al Salvatore <tr6parts at charter.net> wrote: 
> Anybody have any ideas on where to get O-rings for the TR6 brake pressure 
> switch, that are brake fluid friendly.
> 
> I know I can go to Ace and get O-rings, but its the compatability question.
> 
> The local auto parts stores don't have..
> 
> Moss has a repair kit  (181-995), but $15.00 plus shipping for just two 
> little o-rings seams a bit much.
> A couple of years ago they were $8.95.
> 
> Al 
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/glemon at neb.rr.com

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon May  7 20:47:02 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 7 May 2012 19:47:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] brake pressure switch O-rings
In-Reply-To: <828D57CD69AC4C6B9A24D9B419F81B30@Alan>
References: <3cc70.4e1ce2aa.3cd99b52@aol.com>
	<828D57CD69AC4C6B9A24D9B419F81B30@Alan>
Message-ID: <003301cd2cc4$d913d460$8b3b7d20$@rr.com>

EPDM is the material you want (or SBR but it is much harder to find).

According to Nelson, you want size #008.  MMC will sell you a package of 100
for $6.22.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/3482
(scroll way, way down)

-- Randall 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon May  7 20:51:11 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 7 May 2012 19:51:11 -0700
Subject: [TR] Order of Engine Assembly
In-Reply-To: <68F11AB5620140EFB278012E625B1872@GregPC>
References: <358005238.56592.1336390094564.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<D9C48152-D0F2-44BF-B5BC-8E2C2612B89A@genfiniti.com>
	<68F11AB5620140EFB278012E625B1872@GregPC>
Message-ID: <003401cd2cc5$6dca8220$495f8660$@rr.com>

>         As the others have said, should work, as I recall from a 4
> cylinder
> rebuild many years ago, the liners are supposed to sit ever so slightly
> proud of the block, the manuals have the specs, should check to make
> sure
> they are within spec there, shouldn't matter but slight variations in
> the
> liners or block could make a difference.

Yes, indeed!  Liner protrusion is quite important.  

Be sure to check on both sides.  I have found two TR3 engines in a row now,
where the liner height was not even on both sides.  Both had a definite
tendency towards head gasket leaks.

-- Randall 

From emanteno at comcast.net  Mon May  7 21:35:07 2012
From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey)
Date: Mon, 7 May 2012 22:35:07 -0500
Subject: [TR] Horn with a mind of its own
In-Reply-To: <CAFWFMyjgnAt=atPw-DpxhcmnwBLte1Ti5CvuHfKeOtBxs5_VjQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFWFMyjgnAt=atPw-DpxhcmnwBLte1Ti5CvuHfKeOtBxs5_VjQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFWFMyj22kRQy70bhFPA5x4ak5o3CZ1tSPy7WN0tzOf1PuLNYA@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks for all of the suggestions on how to correct the random blasts from
my horns. I appreciate the help.

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL

On Sun, May 6, 2012 at 10:21 AM, Irv Korey <emanteno at comcast.net> wrote:

> I treated myself to a new Moto-Lita steering wheel a couple of weeks ago.
> Since I installed it, the horns have
> blown several times without pushing the horn button, usually when steering
> to the left. This happened twice while we were
> moving (pushing and steering) the car at our club tune-up clinic
> yesterday. My car has air horns, and they are LOUD.
>
> I know the horns are wired hot all of the time and that the horn button
> provides the ground for the circuit. My old wheel and hub
> assembly used a different horn contact design than the stock wheel and I
> never experienced this.
> The Moto-Lita uses the same system as the stock wheel, the spring loaded
> bush that goes through the hub. I'm guessing that
> the stock horn bush arrangement is more sensitive to whatever is causing
> this.
>
> Any and all thoughts/suggestions greatly appreciated.
>
> Irv Korey
> 74 TR6 CF22767U
> Highland Park, IL

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Mon May  7 21:57:33 2012
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Mon, 7 May 2012 20:57:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] tenax windshield  posts
Message-ID: <1336449453.62355.YahooMailNeo@web65508.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

I'm looking at a newly chromed windshield frame (tr-3).  I'm realizing I can't
find any posts to attach to the windshield for the top to clip too.  My frame
will not take threaded posts.  It looks like it takes long threaded posts that
go completely through the frame and attach with a nut on the back
side........which means longer than 1/2 half inch.  From what I can see it
looks like the posts available, need to screw into the first wall of the
channel without going through.  

I'm wondering if a prior owner drilled
completely through the frame.  


any ideas or solutions?

gary n.

From tr6parts at charter.net  Mon May  7 22:11:45 2012
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore)
Date: Tue, 8 May 2012 00:11:45 -0400
Subject: [TR] brake pressure switch O-rings
References: <3cc70.4e1ce2aa.3cd99b52@aol.com>
	<828D57CD69AC4C6B9A24D9B419F81B30@Alan>
	<003301cd2cc4$d913d460$8b3b7d20$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <3813AA11840748D1BE7C269ADA7CCF74@Alan>

Greg & Randall

Thanks for the info on the O-Rings.

Al

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: "'Al Salvatore'" <tr6parts at charter.net>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 07, 2012 10:47 PM
Subject: RE: [TR] brake pressure switch O-rings


> EPDM is the material you want (or SBR but it is much harder to find).
>
> According to Nelson, you want size #008.  MMC will sell you a package of 
> 100
> for $6.22.
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/3482
> (scroll way, way down)
>
> -- Randall

From trdoctor at aol.com  Mon May  7 22:59:40 2012
From: trdoctor at aol.com (Sam Clark)
Date: Mon, 7 May 2012 23:59:40 -0500
Subject: [TR] brake pressure switch O-rings
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1723.1336445189.29715.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.1723.1336445189.29715.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <B93E2D90-A380-4F5E-9F55-49A96048814E@aol.com>

Take the parts with you to a seal supplier.  You need ethylene propylene (EP)
to be resistant to brake fluif.  They have a minimum but if you tell them what
you're working on they will usually work with you.   Or. . .  I bought some
extra and I can send you a few if you wish.

Sam

On May 7, 2012, at 9:46 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> From: "Al Salvatore" <tr6parts at charter.net>
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [TR] brake pressure switch O-rings
> Message-ID: <828D57CD69AC4C6B9A24D9B419F81B30 at Alan>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
> 	reply-type=original
>
> Anybody have any ideas on where to get O-rings for the TR6 brake pressure
> switch, that are brake fluid friendly.
>
> I know I can go to Ace and get O-rings, but its the compatability question.
>
> The local auto parts stores don't have..
>
> Moss has a repair kit  (181-995), but $15.00 plus shipping for just two
> little o-rings seams a bit much.
> A couple of years ago they were $8.95.
>
> Al

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue May  8 00:30:49 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 7 May 2012 23:30:49 -0700
Subject: [TR] tenax windshield  posts
In-Reply-To: <1336449453.62355.YahooMailNeo@web65508.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <1336449453.62355.YahooMailNeo@web65508.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <039b01cd2ce4$1c20a700$0601a8c0@randall>

> It looks like it takes long 
> threaded posts that
> go completely through the frame and attach with a nut on the back
> side........which means longer than 1/2 half inch.

Those were actually original equipment, on the aluminum frames.  Someone may
have drilled your frame for them to repair the original (damaged) holes
(which is exactly what I'm planning to do, although I'll only do two holes).

TRF has beautiful reproductions (but they aren't cheap).

-- Randall  

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Tue May  8 06:34:51 2012
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 8 May 2012 08:34:51 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Slow idle drop
Message-ID: <38897.3a4bc16c.3cda6ceb@aol.com>

Ed,
 
I'm assuming that your emissions equipment (air pump, gulp valve, etc.) has 
 been disconnected....if not, a big culprit behind the symptoms you 
describe  would be a faulty gulp valve.
 
Often,it helps to have the engine running when you check linkage adjustment 
 problems.  Have someone depress and release the accelerator pedal while 
you  observe the operation of the linkage.  Look around the individual carb  
throttle plate linkages very closely to be sure they're promptly returning to 
 their stops.  Once you've ruled out any linkage problems, remove the air  
cleaners and check operation of the air valves to be sure one or both aren't 
 hanging up.  Just for kicks, spray a little carb cleaner around the points 
 where the throttle shafts enter the carbs.....while the engine is 
running.....if  the rpm changes noticeably, the rebuilder may have not replaced the 
rubber seals  around the throttle shafts letting air into the carb changing 
the mixture at  random amounts depending on how the throttle shaft moves.
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack,  PA
1976 TR6 CF57822U
 
 
 
In a message dated 5/7/2012 3:41:24 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
eoot at citlink.net writes:

I have  inspected the linkage and don't find that it is hanging up
anywhere. Is it  possible though that it could be something with the way I
reinstalled the  linkage?

From kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Tue May  8 16:06:20 2012
From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer)
Date: Tue, 8 May 2012 22:06:20 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] tenax windshield  posts
In-Reply-To: <039b01cd2ce4$1c20a700$0601a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <875778530.34268.1336514780735.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

My frame didn't have any holes on the inside, but one or two of the holes on t
he outside were too big, or out of shape, to hold th e stud - is that the
situation you are facing? My solution was to use a "nutter" thing which works
much like a pop-rivet but inserts a molly like threaded sleeve. The inserts
are available in aluminum and steel. I got mine at JC Whitney eons ago, but I
have seen them at Harbor Freight among others. I also used itB in a few
locations whereB  the lift-a-dot stud was supposed to screw into wood but the
wood was having no more of it. Anyway, that was a number of years ago and it
is holding up fine. Just a suggestion.


Bob


----- Original Message -----


From: "Randall" <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: "Gary Nafziger" <nafzigerg at yahoo.com>, triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, May 7, 2012 11:30:49 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] tenax windshield B posts

> It looks like it takes long
> threaded posts that
> go completely through the frame and attach with a nut on the back
> side........which means longer than 1/2 half inch.

Those were actually original equipment, on the aluminum frames. B Someone may
have drilled your frame for them to repair the original (damaged) holes
(which is exactly what I'm planning to do, although I'll only do two holes).

TRF has beautiful reproductions (but they aren't cheap).

-- Randall B 

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/kinderlehrer at comcast.net

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue May  8 16:52:15 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 8 May 2012 15:52:15 -0700
Subject: [TR] tenax windshield  posts
In-Reply-To: <875778530.34268.1336514780735.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <039b01cd2ce4$1c20a700$0601a8c0@randall>
	<875778530.34268.1336514780735.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <006601cd2d6d$3718f4c0$a54ade40$@rr.com>

> My frame didn't have any holes on the inside, but one or two of the
> holes on the outside were too big, or out of shape, to hold the stud -
> is that the situation you are facing?

That's my situation, but I think Gary (the OP) already has holes on both sides
of the frame.

> My solution was to use a "nutter"
> thing which works much like a pop-rivet but inserts a molly like
> threaded sleeve.

I believe those are commonly called "Riv-nuts".  I considered using them, but
wasn't sure there was enough room to install them without removing the glass
(which I would rather not do if I don't have to).  Also not sure if they were
strong enough (since the original threads were not).

Not sure if I would recommend the kit from HF.  Took me 3 tries to get one
that worked reasonably well without breaking.

> I also used it in a few locations where the lift-a-dot
> stud was supposed to screw into wood but the wood was having no more of
> it.

For that situation, I generally just coat a kitchen match stick with wood
glue, jam it into the hole and break it off flush with the surface.  Then just
screw the LTD in as usual, being sure to pick up one of the LTD studs that are
meant for wood rather than sheet metal. (They have longer threads for a better
grip)

-- Randall

From tr6parts at charter.net  Tue May  8 18:03:00 2012
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore)
Date: Tue, 8 May 2012 20:03:00 -0400
Subject: [TR] brake pressure switch O-rings
References: <3cc70.4e1ce2aa.3cd99b52@aol.com>
	<828D57CD69AC4C6B9A24D9B419F81B30@Alan>
	<003301cd2cc4$d913d460$8b3b7d20$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <6C3BFC0F07334AC7A638A54844E228F8@Alan>

Hi,

I looked at MMC description of EPDM which says they are  water and steam 
resistant. #9557k459 , $6.22

They have an O-ring  called Viton ETP  fluoroelastomer which are  chemical 
and oil resistant.  # 2857T114,  $4.21

>From their description of the seals it seams like the Viton ETP  would be 
the more correct O-Ring , if I'm reading the descriptions correctly.

A bit confused.

Al

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: "'Al Salvatore'" <tr6parts at charter.net>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 07, 2012 10:47 PM
Subject: RE: [TR] brake pressure switch O-rings


> EPDM is the material you want (or SBR but it is much harder to find).
>
> According to Nelson, you want size #008.  MMC will sell you a package of 
> 100
> for $6.22.
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/3482
> (scroll way, way down)
>
> -- Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue May  8 19:29:16 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 8 May 2012 18:29:16 -0700
Subject: [TR] brake pressure switch O-rings
In-Reply-To: <6C3BFC0F07334AC7A638A54844E228F8@Alan>
References: <3cc70.4e1ce2aa.3cd99b52@aol.com>
	<828D57CD69AC4C6B9A24D9B419F81B30@Alan>
	<003301cd2cc4$d913d460$8b3b7d20$@rr.com>
	<6C3BFC0F07334AC7A638A54844E228F8@Alan>
Message-ID: <009d01cd2d83$269420a0$73bc61e0$@rr.com>

Viton is not recommended for use with conventional brake fluid.  One report
I found said it swelled by 56% when exposed to "Girling Crimson" for 2
weeks.  Obviously unacceptable.

EPDM is the right stuff, even if MMC doesn't mention all the uses for it.  
http://www.columbiaerd.com/epdm_orings.php

Here's the same chart for Viton
http://www.columbiaerd.com/fluorocarbon_orings.php

-- Randall 

From kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Tue May  8 21:19:13 2012
From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer)
Date: Tue, 8 May 2012 20:19:13 -0700
Subject: [TR] tenax windshield  posts
In-Reply-To: <006601cd2d6d$3718f4c0$a54ade40$@rr.com>
References: <039b01cd2ce4$1c20a700$0601a8c0@randall>
	<875778530.34268.1336514780735.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<006601cd2d6d$3718f4c0$a54ade40$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <005601cd2d92$82bc3520$88349f60$@net>

Fools rush in... but it this case it worked out, there was no interference
with the glass and it seems as strong if not stronger than the original. My
JCW version is probably not much better - I do have to yell at it a lot to
make it work. It's been a while, but I think I tried the match stick trick
but there just wasn't enough wood. On the doors I took the wood out behind
the side curtain mounts, drilled the holes out and filled them with wooden
dowels.
Bob

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2012 3:52 PM
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] tenax windshield posts

> My frame didn't have any holes on the inside, but one or two of the 
> holes on the outside were too big, or out of shape, to hold the stud - 
> is that the situation you are facing?

That's my situation, but I think Gary (the OP) already has holes on both
sides of the frame.

> My solution was to use a "nutter"
> thing which works much like a pop-rivet but inserts a molly like 
> threaded sleeve.

I believe those are commonly called "Riv-nuts".  I considered using them,
but wasn't sure there was enough room to install them without removing the
glass (which I would rather not do if I don't have to).  Also not sure if
they were strong enough (since the original threads were not).

Not sure if I would recommend the kit from HF.  Took me 3 tries to get one
that worked reasonably well without breaking.

> I also used it in a few locations where the lift-a-dot stud was 
> supposed to screw into wood but the wood was having no more of it.

For that situation, I generally just coat a kitchen match stick with wood
glue, jam it into the hole and break it off flush with the surface.  Then
just screw the LTD in as usual, being sure to pick up one of the LTD studs
that are meant for wood rather than sheet metal. (They have longer threads
for a better
grip)

-- Randall

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Wed May  9 07:11:43 2012
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Wed, 09 May 2012 06:11:43 -0700
Subject: [TR] Web site is back online
Message-ID: <4FAA6D0F.10300@gmail.com>

Just to let people know my Triumph web site is back up on the net.

www.tr3a.info

 From requests, it appears that my TR2-4A cylinder head page is by far 
the most popular

www.tr3a.info/FAQ_heads.htm

Hopefully all the links are working.  Please let me know if you find one 
that leads to the dreaded 404 page.

My apologies for having the site down for so long. Moving it required 
most links to be relinked and being the first spring in a new house, 
landscaping a bare yard took priority over everything. But finally the 
site is back up and hopefully all the links go where they should and 
hopefully all the new plants will grow properly and I will not have to 
rent a jackhammer again to punch through hard pan before additional 
planting.

Again, sorry for being offline for so long.

TeriAnn

www.tjwakeman.net
www.tr3a.info
www.expeditionlandrover.info
www.aladdinlamps.info

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Wed May  9 10:19:33 2012
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Wed, 9 May 2012 12:19:33 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Mitty Pix
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1205091218191.28777@isis.mit.edu>

Hi,

I took some pictures at the Mitty a week or so ago:

http://tinyurl.com/7nrffc3

I still have another 100 or so to upload, but these should give you an 
idea of the TRIUMPH participation.

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From triumphstag at gmail.com  Wed May  9 18:30:19 2012
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Wed, 9 May 2012 17:30:19 -0700
Subject: [TR] Hazard light,
 fasten seat belt light and brake light dash switches wanted for '73
 period TR6
Message-ID: <CANLCLaGJEpjor8FSRvZo1yanPg29t-anv4wntfWQa9ymJXEzbQ@mail.gmail.com>

Does anyone have some they want to sell? The '73 Fed Stag uses the same one.

Regards, Sujit

-- 
Sujit Roy, Realtor
Keller Williams Realty, Cupertino, CA
(408) 839-8359

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Thu May 10 06:11:28 2012
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Thu, 10 May 2012 08:11:28 -0400
Subject: [TR] Broken rear stud for rocker arm assembly
In-Reply-To: <CANhzkeMkcPWgi=mzCy8MX7OoeX6x1GYZkQF9v2SaySBqdVmnUw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANhzkePsH_LQpHC6ju=GdUMYG1WTANMs+QY0DysKLwaiKwGNTw@mail.gmail.com>
	<011d01cd2ad5$7ca0dc50$0601a8c0@randall>
	<CANhzkeMkcPWgi=mzCy8MX7OoeX6x1GYZkQF9v2SaySBqdVmnUw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANhzkePq3JXaBaxkH9jeQSFUP=0jr-A31Y=PcaXjNgLBhe5XKg@mail.gmail.com>

Ok - recap of last update - had a nut broken off the water pump pulley; a
loose downpipe/manifold connection; broken rocker stud;  and created some
self-induced challenges along the way.  Swapped out  with an old water pump
and still had metallic noises from engine.  I'm glad I pulled the head as I
was afraid something inside number 4 had caused the stud to break.

I tried to do some root cause analysis before I reassembled - so I cleaned
everything and really gave things a good study.

1.  Rocker stud washers have become a bit domed and are in general a bit
rough - I bought new ones from one of the big three when I rebuilt the
engine and apparently got unhardened washers. - They are reasonably thicker
than standard washers but  deformed nonetheless.  So my best theory here is
they deformed, reduced the torque on the nuts to zero or less and then the
valve train hammered away on the stud until it failed. - Rocker arms do not
seem to have any noticeable wear - so I'm leaving them as is.
2. Exhaust manifold to headpipe - No idea - the nut was down about 1/4 inch
- but not easy to loosen or tighten - maybe I missed tightening this
one.....
3. Water pump nut - I feel this is my bad - I felt the pump pulley was a
bit too easy to slide on the shaft a few months ago and even got the
locktite product that Randall uses to fill in the gaps - but did not get
around to putting it on.... so I deserve this one - Bad thing is - it took
out the pump and the pulley. Much more expensive than the locktite bearing
product.  My spare used water pump felt good in my hand and I greased it up
- but in removing the belt - I see that it has some play in the bearings
and that is likely the reason for the  continued racket in the engine;  The
noise from the free pulley bouncing around water pump one - and the noise
from worn bearings in water pump two are quite similar.
4. I reused my payen head gasket - not sure how long I'll leave it on - but
wanted to move along with my troubleshooting - I sprayed both sides with a
couple coats of the copper spray - some folks swear by it others think it's
trouble - I've used it in the past.  I've reused head gaskets twice before
due to financial constraints -   once on the TR2 -  back in 1976 - it's the
one that is still on it.  and once on the TR4 - it was retired after
several thousand miles when I rebuilt the engine.  Since I'm not strapped
for cash at this time - I plan to pull the head and do it right and figure
that with 2 behind me my luck has run out.

Head is back on and everything is buttoned up.  Left the water pump on the
car - but disconnected the belt.  Filled the radiator and used the hose to
force water through the head as I was going to start it without the belt on
to see if noise was gone.   Started right up - no noise - shut down.

Lessons relearned - go back and check those fasteners after the engine is
broken in; Don't run a water pump without a good fit between shaft and
pulley; Don't use an unrestrained hose when adding fluif to the
transmission - or rear.

Now I'm waiting for my parts.  Thanks for those that replied with advice
and encouragement.

Chris

54 TR2 - getting a new wiring harness this weekend
63 TR4 - Soon to be daily driver again
69 TR6 - needing welding and attention

From elliottr at rmi.net  Thu May 10 08:56:34 2012
From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott)
Date: Thu, 10 May 2012 09:56:34 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Subject: [TR] Float bowls overflowing
Message-ID: <24446925.1336661794983.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rubis.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Hi,

I have a 1980 Spitfire with dual SU HS4 carbs.  I noticed while trying to get to run correctly that the front fuel bowl had gas coming out the top vent hole.  

Figuring that it was the needle valve sticking, I replaced the needle valves and floats in both fuel bowls.  

The front bowl (second in fuel line) contined to overflow.  I thought that there may be a crack or something in the lid, so I dug out different lid, put the new bowls and valves in the lids, made sure the float adjustment is correct. 

These lids have vent tubes, which I have connected with fuel hose - above the carbs.
 
Well, gas is coming out of the vent hose connected to the vent tubes  - not sure which carb is overflowing at this point as I did not think to disconnect them until after I stopped working on them for the evening. 

The fuel line now has a T-connector to get gas to both carbs.  Previously, the rear carb had a fuel pass through.

I have a mechanical fuel pump, not original.  But one sold by one of the big vendors - don't remember which now.

Can the mechanical pumps put out too much pressure?  The pump has been on for a few years and it has run correctly in the past.

Assuming I haven't botched installing the needle valves and floats, is there anything besides excess fuel pressure that would cause the bowls to overflow?

Thanks,
Roger Elliott
1980 Spitfire

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu May 10 10:25:56 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 10 May 2012 09:25:56 -0700
Subject: [TR] Float bowls overflowing
In-Reply-To: <24446925.1336661794983.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rubis.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
References: <24446925.1336661794983.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rubis.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <070c01cd2ec9$95390a60$0601a8c0@randall>

> Can the mechanical pumps put out too much pressure?  The pump 
> has been on for a few years and it has run correctly in the past.

Definitely a possibility, but I've never heard of them going up on their
own.  Might be worth checking with a gauge, though.  Most vacuum test gauges
will also read fuel pump pressure.

> Assuming I haven't botched installing the needle valves and 
> floats, is there anything besides excess fuel pressure that 
> would cause the bowls to overflow?

Most common cause for me is crud in the fuel.  Sometimes the soft fuel lines
can fail and shed bits into the fuel (after the filter) that jam the valve
open.

Defective new parts is also a possibility.  In particular, many plastic
floats don't get along well with gasohol.  And I've seen several "Grose
Jets" that leak for no apparent reason.

One easy test is to hold the lid upside down with the float and valve
installed, and try to blow into the inlet.  The weight of the float should
be enough to hold the valve closed.

-- Randall  

From cliff_hansen at earthlink.net  Thu May 10 10:34:34 2012
From: cliff_hansen at earthlink.net (Cliff Hansen)
Date: Thu, 10 May 2012 10:34:34 -0600 (GMT-06:00)
Subject: [TR] Float bowls overflowing
Message-ID: <12952948.1336667675459.JavaMail.root@elwamui-karabash.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Roger,

I had the same problem with a 4A with HS6 carbs and an electrical pump.  Turned out that the fuel pressure was too high.  I added a fuel pressure regulator and dialed it down to 1.5lbs, car ran fine and no more fuel leaks (plenty of other leaks but that's a different story).

That was 20 years ago and the regulator was about $12.  I don't know where to get one today.

Best,

Cliff


-----Original Message-----
>From: Roger Elliott <elliottr at rmi.net>
>Sent: May 10, 2012 8:56 AM
>To: triumphs at autox.team.net
>Subject: [TR] Float bowls overflowing
>
>Hi,
>
>I have a 1980 Spitfire with dual SU HS4 carbs.  I noticed while trying to get to run correctly that the front fuel bowl had gas coming out the top vent hole.  
>
>Figuring that it was the needle valve sticking, I replaced the needle valves and floats in both fuel bowls.  
>
>The front bowl (second in fuel line) contined to overflow.  I thought that there may be a crack or something in the lid, so I dug out different lid, put the new bowls and valves in the lids, made sure the float adjustment is correct. 
>
>These lids have vent tubes, which I have connected with fuel hose - above the carbs.
> 
>Well, gas is coming out of the vent hose connected to the vent tubes  - not sure which carb is overflowing at this point as I did not think to disconnect them until after I stopped working on them for the evening. 
>
>The fuel line now has a T-connector to get gas to both carbs.  Previously, the rear carb had a fuel pass through.
>
>I have a mechanical fuel pump, not original.  But one sold by one of the big vendors - don't remember which now.
>
>Can the mechanical pumps put out too much pressure?  The pump has been on for a few years and it has run correctly in the past.
>
>Assuming I haven't botched installing the needle valves and floats, is there anything besides excess fuel pressure that would cause the bowls to overflow?
>
>Thanks,
>Roger Elliott
>1980 Spitfire
>
>** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cliff_hansen at earthlink.net

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Thu May 10 11:00:55 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Thu, 10 May 2012 10:00:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Float bowls overflowing
In-Reply-To: <24446925.1336661794983.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rubis.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
References: <24446925.1336661794983.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rubis.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <1336669255.35221.YahooMailNeo@web120201.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Roger
there is an adjustment to be made that sets the height the float bowl
comes to and closes the needle valve.
on my TR3 there is a 2 finger hinge like
device that is curved.
you set the height by checking it with a specific drill
diameter.
i cant recall the exact diameter but im sure some one will tell us.
check your workshop manual, it will have pictures.
Frank

From: Roger Elliott
<elliottr at rmi.net>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2012
7:56 AM
Subject: [TR] Float bowls overflowing

Hi,

I have a 1980 Spitfire
with dual SU HS4 carbs.  I noticed while trying to get to run correctly that
the front fuel bowl had gas coming out the top vent hole.  

Figuring that it
was the needle valve sticking, I replaced the needle valves and floats in both
fuel bowls.  

The front bowl (second in fuel line) contined to overflow.  I
thought that there may be a crack or something in the lid, so I dug out
different lid, put the new bowls and valves in the lids, made sure the float
adjustment is correct. 

These lids have vent tubes, which I have connected
with fuel hose - above the carbs.

Well, gas is coming out of the vent hose
connected to the vent tubes  - not sure which carb is overflowing at this
point as I did not think to disconnect them until after I stopped working on
them for the evening. 

The fuel line now has a T-connector to get gas to both
carbs.  Previously, the rear carb had a fuel pass through.

I have a
mechanical fuel pump, not original.  But one sold by one of the big vendors -
don't remember which now.

Can the mechanical pumps put out too much
pressure?  The pump has been on for a few years and it has run correctly in
the past.

Assuming I haven't botched installing the needle valves and floats,
is there anything besides excess fuel pressure that would cause the bowls to
overflow?

Thanks,
Roger Elliott
1980 Spitfire

** triumphs at autox.team.net **
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com

From wbeech at flash.net  Thu May 10 12:32:31 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Thu, 10 May 2012 13:32:31 -0500
Subject: [TR] Float bowls overflowing
In-Reply-To: <1336669255.35221.YahooMailNeo@web120201.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <24446925.1336661794983.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rubis.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
	<1336669255.35221.YahooMailNeo@web120201.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <464B8589-6762-4F3A-8BDD-33F398087AC6@flash.net>

Should be 3/8", easy measure is to hold the lid upside down and lay a 3/8".
Bolt across it. Your wishbone should just touch it where it meets the float.

Sent from mobile Bill

On May 10, 2012, at 12:00 PM, Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com> wrote:

> Roger
> there is an adjustment to be made that sets the height the float bowl
> comes to and closes the needle valve.
> on my TR3 there is a 2 finger hinge like
> device that is curved.
> you set the height by checking it with a specific drill
> diameter.
> i cant recall the exact diameter but im sure some one will tell us.
> check your workshop manual, it will have pictures.
> Frank
>
> From: Roger Elliott
> <elliottr at rmi.net>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2012
> 7:56 AM
> Subject: [TR] Float bowls overflowing
>
> Hi,
>
> I have a 1980 Spitfire
> with dual SU HS4 carbs.  I noticed while trying to get to run correctly
that
> the front fuel bowl had gas coming out the top vent hole.
>
> Figuring that it
> was the needle valve sticking, I replaced the needle valves and floats in
both
> fuel bowls.
>
> The front bowl (second in fuel line) contined to overflow.  I
> thought that there may be a crack or something in the lid, so I dug out
> different lid, put the new bowls and valves in the lids, made sure the
float
> adjustment is correct.
>
> These lids have vent tubes, which I have connected
> with fuel hose - above the carbs.
>
> Well, gas is coming out of the vent hose
> connected to the vent tubes  - not sure which carb is overflowing at this
> point as I did not think to disconnect them until after I stopped working
on
> them for the evening.
>
> The fuel line now has a T-connector to get gas to both
> carbs.  Previously, the rear carb had a fuel pass through.
>
> I have a
> mechanical fuel pump, not original.  But one sold by one of the big vendors
-
> don't remember which now.
>
> Can the mechanical pumps put out too much
> pressure?  The pump has been on for a few years and it has run correctly in
> the past.
>
> Assuming I haven't botched installing the needle valves and floats,
> is there anything besides excess fuel pressure that would cause the bowls
to
> overflow?
>
> Thanks,
> Roger Elliott
> 1980 Spitfire
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
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From tedtsimx at bright.net  Thu May 10 13:47:39 2012
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Thu, 10 May 2012 15:47:39 -0400
Subject: [TR] Kastner Cup shirt - last call
Message-ID: <4FAC1B5B.5050001@bright.net>

Hello lists. The Kastner Cup t.shirt program is approaching the end of 
the ordering period. Monday is the last day to order.  This shirt was 
very popular at the recent Mitty Vintage Race.   If we have enough 
orders to do another run, we will.  If not, no harm - no foul. We need 
your name, address, size and method of payment by close of business 
Monday. Tuesday will be go or no go time.  Price is $15 for small - 
x-large and $18 for XXL or XXXL.   Thanks for your time. Ted
Shirt can be viewed at this link:

http://littlebluespitfire.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=6612

-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US&  Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Thu May 10 13:50:00 2012
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 10 May 2012 15:50:00 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Float bowls overflowing
Message-ID: <2c65d.60ae0163.3cdd75e8@aol.com>

Roger,
 
Cracked floats would do it!  The floats get saturated with fuel and  don't 
"float" anymore!  I would suspect your fuel pump pressure but you  said it 
ran fine with that fuel pump until now.  I assume you're  using a fuel filter 
so we can rule out nasty bits of dirt clogging the  valves....if the float 
level is set to spec and the pump hasn't suddenly decided  to put out 8 or 
10psi, I'm guessing that there's a crack in one of your  floats.
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack,  PA
1976 TR6 CF57822U



In a message dated 5/10/2012 12:07:24 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
elliottr at rmi.net writes:

Assuming  I haven't botched installing the needle valves and floats, is 
there anything  besides excess fuel pressure that would cause the bowls to  
overflow?

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Thu May 10 14:06:05 2012
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Thu, 10 May 2012 16:06:05 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Headshots From Mitty 2012
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1205101605230.317@isis.mit.edu>

Hi,

Here are some headshots from the Mitty.

http://tinyurl.com/72pzx3f

There are def. some keepers in there.

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk  Thu May 10 14:52:56 2012
From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Thu, 10 May 2012 21:52:56 +0100 (BST)
Subject: [TR] Float bowls overflowing
In-Reply-To: <464B8589-6762-4F3A-8BDD-33F398087AC6@flash.net>
References: <24446925.1336661794983.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rubis.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
	<1336669255.35221.YahooMailNeo@web120201.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<464B8589-6762-4F3A-8BDD-33F398087AC6@flash.net>
Message-ID: <1336683176.93130.YahooMailNeo@web29404.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

Just found this titbit of info from the SU website if it helps anyone?
B 
Jonmac
B 
B 
"There are several different float settings depending on which
type of 
carburetter/float set up you have. Listed below are the most common
options.

T1 (1 7/8b OD) and T2 (2 1/4" OD) Float chambers. With the float
chamber lid inverted and the hinge lever resting on the float needle, it
should 
be possible to just slide a 7/16b diameter between the radius of the
hinge lever 
and the face of the float chamber lid. 
T4 (3b OD). A 5/8b
test bar should be used. Early HS carburetters with brass floats. A 5/16b
test 
bar should be used.
HS carbs with the early nylon float and steel
needle. 
The gap between the lever and the face of the lid should be between
0.125b and 
0.187b.
HS carbs with the later all nylon float and delrin
type needle. 
The gap between the float and the lid face should be between
0.062b and 0.187b 
with the float resting on the needle but not depressing
it. This type is non 
adjustable."

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Thu May 10 15:53:28 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Thu, 10 May 2012 14:53:28 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Float bowls overflowing
In-Reply-To: <2c65d.60ae0163.3cdd75e8@aol.com>
References: <2c65d.60ae0163.3cdd75e8@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1336686808.65854.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

im leaning away from fuel pump pressure as he only has one bowl leaking
Frank
From: "Chip19474 at aol.com" <Chip19474 at aol.com>
To: elliottr at rmi.net;
triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2012 12:50 PM
Subject: Re:
[TR] Float bowls overflowing

Roger,

Cracked floats would do it!  The floats
get saturated with fuel and  don't 
"float" anymore!  I would suspect your
fuel pump pressure but you  said it 
ran fine with that fuel pump until now. 
I assume you're  using a fuel filter 
so we can rule out nasty bits of dirt
clogging the  valves....if the float 
level is set to spec and the pump hasn't
suddenly decided  to put out 8 or 
10psi, I'm guessing that there's a crack in
one of your  floats.

Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack,  PA
1976 TR6 CF57822U



In a message dated 5/10/2012 12:07:24 P.M. Eastern
Daylight Time,  
elliottr at rmi.net writes:

Assuming  I haven't botched
installing the needle valves and floats, is 
there anything  besides excess
fuel pressure that would cause the bowls to  
overflow?

**
triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From dconnitt at fuse.net  Thu May 10 17:34:11 2012
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Thu, 10 May 2012 19:34:11 -0400
Subject: [TR] Float bowls overflowing
Message-ID: <6A5C7A1004ED40348262139992597306@DaveLaptop>

In rebuilding my SU HS-6 carburetors, I came across some information myself..
If you remove the vacumn domes and pistons, with the float bowls full the fuel
should to sit just below the main jets. If the bridge in the carb where the
main jet sits is wet, then the floats are set too high. I haven't had a chance
to actually prove this since my TR is not running yet but it does kind of make
sense in the simplicity of it..
Dave Connitt

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Thu May 10 17:45:18 2012
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Thu, 10 May 2012 19:45:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] Help needed Philadelphia / Wilmington
Message-ID: <E92AB4043B1A4ED8BB825DD0C21E2759@DCH6RFC1>

Lists:

 

I have a TR3 factory hard-top which Larry Schwartz bought some time ago.
The problem now is getting it from here (Michigan) to there (Queens, NY).  I
have reason to be in Wilmington, DE on Monday and thought if I drove I could
meet Larry in or around Philadelphia.  Unfortunately Larry is unavailable
Monday, but could pick it up later in the week if I could find a good TR
soul who would house the hard-top for us for a few days.

 

Is there anyone in Wilmington (ideally) or Philadelphia (second choice) who
could help us out here?  This way, the top is 600 miles nearer its final
home than it is sitting in my barn.  I'd really appreciate it, and I know
Larry would, too.

 

Andrew Uprichard

From elliottr at rmi.net  Fri May 11 07:55:17 2012
From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott)
Date: Fri, 11 May 2012 08:55:17 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Subject: [TR] Float bowls overflowing
Message-ID: <11969152.1336744517650.JavaMail.root@elwamui-milano.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

/local/mailman/lynxXXXXUegFf3: Permission denied

From rbtr3a at cox.net  Fri May 11 08:10:08 2012
From: rbtr3a at cox.net (Ronnie Babbitt)
Date: Fri, 11 May 2012 10:10:08 -0400
Subject: [TR] Project needed
Message-ID: <15CCE11D-DB36-49CD-B551-DE3AF8FCC488@cox.net>

I have a close friend who is looking for a 67-70 spit. To build as a father
son
project. I took them with me to the Walter Mitty at road Atlanta, and now the
son has fallen in love with triumphs.
We may have a possible next generation triumph lover.  Any way need help
finding a project car. Needs to be very very inexpensive. For this is a
teenager project and teenage budget. So if you know of one of those " maybe
some day I'll get around to it's"  project cars that you would like to see
completed. Please contact
Me.  His dad is making him pay for it so he will appreciate it.  I'll be there
to assist in the project.

From arakelianp at mossmotors.com  Fri May 11 14:13:43 2012
From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Pete Arakelian)
Date: Fri, 11 May 2012 13:13:43 -0700
Subject: [TR] routine maintenance
Message-ID: <4D4FABA15328FC42B1AA0DEE4673548C86F7FD3424@DR-EX-04.datacenter.dataresolution.net>

I have had a Pertronix in my TR6 for many years.  It works great, no problems.
But there is a down side.  When I had points, I did a tune-up once a year just
before Triumphest, because it was about then or on the way to Triumphest that
the points would get pitted and would really need to be changed.  Since the
Pertronix, there is no noticeable breakdown to trigger the tune-up.
Well, I decided I should do a tune-up, because it seemed like it had been a
while.  Wow, had it.
Last time I adjusted the valves was five years and 30,000+ miles!  Some of the
valves only had .001 clearances!  The old spark plugs looked fine, good color,
no deterioration of the electrodes, but the gaps were around .040!  The cap
and rotor both were discolored and had crude built up!
It runs better now and I suspect I will get better gas mileage, too.
So just a reminder to all - don't forget!!!

Peter Arakelian - '71 TR6

From elliottr at rmi.net  Sat May 12 11:21:58 2012
From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott)
Date: Sat, 12 May 2012 12:21:58 -0500
Subject: [TR] Float bowls overflowing
In-Reply-To: <1336686808.65854.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <2c65d.60ae0163.3cdd75e8@aol.com>
	<1336686808.65854.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4FAE9C36.5000205@rmi.net>

I want to thank everyone for the suggestions and ideas.

I hooked up a pressure gauge today - fuel pressure was almost 10 psi.  I 
put in a pressure regulator and the pressure is now just over 2 1/2 psi.

I now have it set so it is running about 95% right. I think I just need 
to make the carbs a little richer.

Just to follow up on a couple of suggestions.  I could not detect any 
gas in the floats that were originally in the carbs.   I replaced them 
and still had the overflow problem.

The floats are the solid plastic ones - no metal arms. I set them so a 
drill bit between 1/8" and 3/16" inches (per Spit manual) would just 
roll under the float.

So I think I am all set.  Thanks again for all of the ideas.

Roger Elliott



On 05/10/2012 04:53 PM, Frank Fisher wrote:
> imleaning away from fuel pump pressure as he only has one bowl leaking
> Frank
>
> *From:* "Chip19474 at aol.com" <Chip19474 at aol.com>
> *To:* elliottr at rmi.net; triumphs at autox.team.net
> *Sent:* Thursday, May 10, 2012 12:50 PM
> *Subject:* Re: [TR] Float bowls overflowing
>
> Roger,
>
> Cracked floats would do it!  The floats get saturated with fuel and  
> don't
> "float" anymore!  I would suspect your fuel pump pressure but you  
> said it
> ran fine with that fuel pump until now.  I assume you're  using a fuel 
> filter
> so we can rule out nasty bits of dirt clogging the  valves....if the 
> float
> level is set to spec and the pump hasn't suddenly decided  to put out 
> 8 or
> 10psi, I'm guessing that there's a crack in one of your  floats.
>
> Chip Krout
> Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
> Skippack,  PA
> 1976 TR6 CF57822U
>
>
>
> In a message dated 5/10/2012 12:07:24 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> elliottr at rmi.net <mailto:elliottr at rmi.net> writes:
>
> Assuming  I haven't botched installing the needle valves and floats, is
> there anything  besides excess fuel pressure that would cause the 
> bowls to
> overflow?

From dave at ranteer.com  Sat May 12 12:45:45 2012
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Sat, 12 May 2012 13:45:45 -0500
Subject: [TR] so off topic its rediculous
Message-ID: <21137DC5A08743648FFC2C74FF115A49@ranteer.local>

therebs a song I really like b la guitare fait mal -
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HqIBIEzE9Eo&feature=autoplay&list=PLD5763E9CC8
04A667&lf=results_video&playnext=1

btw b itbs a blues piece.  Ibm a big fan of that genre and I think its
pretty good.  features luther allison and johnny hallyday

its in french, and I think the title is bthe guitar donbt lieb or at
least thatbs what Ibve been able to pick up.

here are the lyrics.  anyone conversant enough in french willing to translate?
I suspect therebs a lot of slang.  the literal translation via google makes
no sense.


Toute la nuit, il a jouC) sur sa guitare
Au fond d'un vieux cafC)
Un peu de soleil, sur le goudron mouillC)
Les gens s'en vont, le jour va se lever

C'est la derniC(re chanson, d'un amour blessC)
Y a la guerre quelque part, loin du cafC)
Comme un amour bizarre qui veut jamais rentrer
Tout C'a est normal et la guitare fait... mal

La femme qui vient le soir, s'habille en noir
Elle sourit quand il joue le blues
Elle demande chaque soir, la mC*me chanson
La mC*me chanson qui est toute son histoire

Et c'est son parfum qui traC.ne dans le lointain
On empile des chaises, pour balayer
C'est toute une histoire qu'il faudrait oublier
Tout C'a est normal et la guitare fait... mal

Il y a pas si longtemps, pas trC(s longtemps
Il jouait pour pouvoir l'aimer
MalgrC) les journC)es oC9 il perdait sa vie
Pour la voir arriver quand venait la nuit

Il attend la nuit et cette femme aussi
Comme on attend son dernier train
Qui va l'emporter vers son vrai destin
Tout C'a est normal et la guitare fait mal

La guitare fait mal

From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk  Sat May 12 15:32:39 2012
From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Sat, 12 May 2012 22:32:39 +0100 (BST)
Subject: [TR] so off topic its rediculous
In-Reply-To: <21137DC5A08743648FFC2C74FF115A49@ranteer.local>
References: <21137DC5A08743648FFC2C74FF115A49@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <1336858359.27243.YahooMailNeo@web29401.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

Disagree, Dave. Whatever music anyone chooses to play in their Triumph is
surely on-topic? Go to YouTube and dial in 'C'est pas de l'amour' by Goldman
Fredericks Jones or 'MaryLou' by Danyel Gerard. Fabulous songs with a very
special French technique and guitar work. I had several of these guys albums
on my MP3 in the Stag on the Trans-America event in 2009. Sang them all at the
top of my voice in open country, in city traffic and sitting at stop lights.
The facial reactions I got from Montreal to Dallas to San Francisco were
priceless
Love songs in French and Grand Opera in Italian are perfect for top
down driving in any LBC.

Jonmac
 
________________________________
 From:
Dave <dave at ranteer.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Saturday, 12 May
2012, 19:45
Subject: [TR] so off topic its rediculous


>therebs a song I
really like b la guitare fait mal -
>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HqIBIEzE9Eo&feature=autoplay&list=PLD5763E9CC8
>04A667&lf=results_video&playnext=1
>
>btw b itbs a blues piece.  Ibm a big
fan of that genre and I think its
>pretty good.  features luther allison and
johnny hallyday
>
>its in french, and I think the title is bthe guitar donbt
lieb or at
>least thatbs what Ibve been able to pick up.
>
>here are the
lyrics.  anyone conversant enough in french willing to translate?
>I suspect
therebs a lot of slang.  the literal translation via google makes
>no sense.
>
>
>Toute la nuit, il a jouC) sur sa guitare
>Au fond d'un vieux cafC)
>Un peu
de soleil, sur le goudron mouillC)
>Les gens s'en vont, le jour va se lever
>
>C'est la derniC(re chanson, d'un amour blessC)
>Y a la guerre quelque part,
loin du cafC)
>Comme un amour bizarre qui veut jamais rentrer
>Tout C'a est
normal et la guitare fait... mal
>
>La femme qui vient le soir, s'habille en
noir
>Elle sourit quand il joue le blues
>Elle demande chaque soir, la mC*me
chanson
>La mC*me chanson qui est toute son histoire
>
>Et c'est son parfum
qui traC.ne dans le lointain
>On empile des chaises, pour balayer
>C'est toute
une histoire qu'il faudrait oublier
>Tout C'a est normal et la guitare fait...
mal
>
>Il y a pas si longtemps, pas trC(s longtemps
>Il jouait pour pouvoir
l'aimer
>MalgrC) les journC)es oC9 il perdait sa vie
>Pour la voir arriver
quand venait la nuit
>
>Il attend la nuit et cette femme aussi
>Comme on
attend son dernier train
>Qui va l'emporter vers son vrai destin
>Tout C'a est
normal et la guitare fait mal
>
>La guitare fait mal
>
>**
triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk

From spook01 at comcast.net  Sat May 12 15:38:03 2012
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Sat, 12 May 2012 16:38:03 -0500
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?so_off_topic_its_rediculous?=
Message-ID: <mailman.26.1336858648.29712.triumphs@autox.team.net>

Try babelfish.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Dave" <dave at ranteer.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] so off topic its rediculous
Date: Sat, May 12, 2012 13:45


therebs a song I really like b la guitare fait mal -
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HqIBIEzE9Eo&feature=autoplay&list=PLD5763E9CC8
04A667&lf=results_video&playnext=1

btw b itbs a blues piece.  Ibm a big fan of that genre and I think its
pretty good.  features luther allison and johnny hallyday

its in french, and I think the title is bthe guitar donbt lieb or at
least thatbs what Ibve been able to pick up.

here are the lyrics.  anyone conversant enough in french willing to translate?
I suspect therebs a lot of slang.  the literal translation via google makes
no sense.


Toute la nuit, il a jouC) sur sa guitare
Au fond d'un vieux cafC)
Un peu de soleil, sur le goudron mouillC)
Les gens s'en vont, le jour va se lever

C'est la derniC(re chanson, d'un amour blessC)
Y a la guerre quelque part, loin du cafC)
Comme un amour bizarre qui veut jamais rentrer
Tout C'a est normal et la guitare fait... mal

La femme qui vient le soir, s'habille en noir
Elle sourit quand il joue le blues
Elle demande chaque soir, la mC*me chanson
La mC*me chanson qui est toute son histoire

Et c'est son parfum qui traC.ne dans le lointain
On empile des chaises, pour balayer
C'est toute une histoire qu'il faudrait oublier
Tout C'a est normal et la guitare fait... mal

Il y a pas si longtemps, pas trC(s longtemps
Il jouait pour pouvoir l'aimer
MalgrC) les journC)es oC9 il perdait sa vie
Pour la voir arriver quand venait la nuit

Il attend la nuit et cette femme aussi
Comme on attend son dernier train
Qui va l'emporter vers son vrai destin
Tout C'a est normal et la guitare fait mal

La guitare fait mal

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net

From wbeech at flash.net  Sat May 12 17:39:40 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sat, 12 May 2012 18:39:40 -0500
Subject: [TR] Mom in my TR3
Message-ID: <72F68DC386464A9F805BBE9EAE625716@bboffice>

Not sure if many of you have had your mother take off in your newly acquired
Triumph, but mine did.  Mom had a practice of 'test driving' every four
wheeled heap I drug home as a teen, I think she secretly was taking it up to
the service station (you remember service stations don't you?) to have the
local guy check it over.  I never complained as it always came back with a
full tank of gas.

Later she even co-signed a $300 note at the bank so I could get the
overdrive fixed before I headed off to a new job 100 miles away.
 
Happy Mother's Day to all the TR loving moms out there!
 
Bill

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sat May 12 17:41:39 2012
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sat, 12 May 2012 16:41:39 -0700
Subject: [TR] so off topic its rediculous
In-Reply-To: <21137DC5A08743648FFC2C74FF115A49@ranteer.local>
References: <21137DC5A08743648FFC2C74FF115A49@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bHBOmu+mLA6UFfBoDRN3xtBunE1TAUML4nGRLyCOVriag@mail.gmail.com>

Gmail has a translate feature on it emails, it shows this:

* All night he Performed) on his guitar
 At the bottom of an old CAFC)
 A little sun, on asphalt mouillC)
 People are leaving, the day will rise *
* *
* This is the derniC (re song, a love blessC)
 Y a war somewhere far CAFC)
 Like a love bizarre ever wants to return
 It has everything is normal and the guitar is ... evil *
* The woman who comes at night, dressed in black
 She smiles when he plays the blues
 She asks every night, the song I * mC
 MC * The song that is my whole story *
* And it's his scent that traC.ne in the distance
 Are stacked chairs, to sweep
 This is a story that should be forgotten
 It has everything is normal and the guitar is ... evil *
* Not so long ago, not trC (s long
 He played for the love power
 MalgrC) the journC) are OC9 he lost his life
 To see it happen when the night came *
* He expected the night and this woman also
 As expected the last train
 Who will win to his true destiny
 It has everything is normal and the guitar hurts *
* *
* The guitar hurts *


Okay, still leaves something to the imagination.

From pethier at comcast.net  Sat May 12 18:55:28 2012
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 13 May 2012 00:55:28 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] so off topic its rediculous
In-Reply-To: <1336858359.27243.YahooMailNeo@web29401.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <818521865.360319.1336870528578.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Well, you didn't leave them behind in the car...

At least in Montreal, they could understand the words you were singing!


Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://www.mnautox.com

----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Macartney" <flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk>
> To: "Dave" <dave at ranteer.com>, triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2012 4:32:39 PM
> Subject: Re: [TR] so off topic its rediculous
> Disagree, Dave. Whatever music anyone chooses to play in their Triumph
> is
> surely on-topic? Go to YouTube and dial in 'C'est pas de l'amour' by
> Goldman
> Fredericks Jones or 'MaryLou' by Danyel Gerard. Fabulous songs with a
> very
> special French technique and guitar work. I had several of these guys
> albums
> on my MP3 in the Stag on the Trans-America event in 2009. Sang them
> all at the
> top of my voice in open country, in city traffic and sitting at stop
> lights.
> The facial reactions I got from Montreal to Dallas to San Francisco
> were
> priceless
> Love songs in French and Grand Opera in Italian are perfect for top
> down driving in any LBC.
> 
> Jonmac

From pcaffrey at ymail.com  Sat May 12 19:40:37 2012
From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey)
Date: Sat, 12 May 2012 18:40:37 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Mom in my TR3
Message-ID: <1336873237.34000.YahooMailClassic@web162201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Yes, mine did too....In 1977 my mother and sister drove me to the foothills of
Sacramento to pick up my newly purchased TR4A. It only took a few days of
having the car that mom wanted to drive it. She did, and drove it well....When
she got older and couldn't drive anymore, she loved to ride in it.
Pat

--- On Sat, 5/12/12, wbeech at flash.net <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:


From: wbeech at flash.net <wbeech at flash.net>
Subject: [TR] Mom in my TR3
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Date: Saturday, May 12, 2012, 11:39 PM


Not sure if many of you have had your mother take off in your newly acquired
Triumph, but mine did.  Mom had a practice of 'test driving' every four
wheeled heap I drug home as a teen, I think she secretly was taking it up to
the service station (you remember service stations don't you?) to have the
local guy check it over.  I never complained as it always came back with a
full tank of gas.

Later she even co-signed a $300 note at the bank so I could get the
overdrive fixed before I headed off to a new job 100 miles away.

Happy Mother's Day to all the TR loving moms out there!

Bill

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From glemon at neb.rr.com  Sat May 12 21:03:42 2012
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Sat, 12 May 2012 22:03:42 -0500
Subject: [TR] Mom in my TR3
In-Reply-To: <1336873237.34000.YahooMailClassic@web162201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1336873237.34000.YahooMailClassic@web162201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <B0FA13E40EE248A79A9952C8CE9CFC9A@GregPC>

High school and college student days of maintaining LBCs on part time, 
minimum wage jobs, living at home, using moms kitchen pans as oil drain 
pans, cars on blocks in the driveway under repair, etc.

Mom was never very interested in cars, but she sure was patient.

Greg Lemon

From dave at ranteer.com  Sat May 12 21:57:38 2012
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Sat, 12 May 2012 22:57:38 -0500
Subject: [TR] Mom in my TR3
In-Reply-To: <1336873237.34000.YahooMailClassic@web162201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1336873237.34000.YahooMailClassic@web162201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CEA923E166AD4685AC505BB7E0E5065D@ranteer.local>

my mother is quite the contrary.  can't drive a shift, and isn't interested. 
couldn't tell a camry from a cadillac.

my brother had a tr3, and it was the source of many "issues" due to the 
repairs while he was in college.

my mother has said "I don't remember any of the cars you kids drove except 
for that damned Triumph."

-----Original Message----- 
From: P Caffrey
Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2012 8:40 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net ; wbeech at flash.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Mom in my TR3

Yes, mine did too....In 1977 my mother and sister drove me to the foothills 
of
Sacramento to pick up my newly purchased TR4A. It only took a few days of
having the car that mom wanted to drive it. She did, and drove it 
well....When
she got older and couldn't drive anymore, she loved to ride in it.
Pat

--- On Sat, 5/12/12, wbeech at flash.net <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:


From: wbeech at flash.net <wbeech at flash.net>
Subject: [TR] Mom in my TR3
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Date: Saturday, May 12, 2012, 11:39 PM


Not sure if many of you have had your mother take off in your newly acquired
Triumph, but mine did.  Mom had a practice of 'test driving' every four
wheeled heap I drug home as a teen, I think she secretly was taking it up to
the service station (you remember service stations don't you?) to have the
local guy check it over.  I never complained as it always came back with a
full tank of gas.

Later she even co-signed a $300 note at the bank so I could get the
overdrive fixed before I headed off to a new job 100 miles away.

Happy Mother's Day to all the TR loving moms out there!

Bill 

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Sun May 13 06:26:04 2012
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 13 May 2012 08:26:04 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Mom in my TR3
Message-ID: <5dc8.41b490c7.3ce1025c@aol.com>

ha, ha, ha.....not my mom - my father!  Many years ago (as in 1966!)  when 
dad said he needed a second car, my brother and I persuaded him that  a 
Spitfire would fit his budget.  We figured that he would generously  let us 
borrow it occasionally so it would be a win-win.  Well,  "occasionally" turned 
out to be the operative word!  Dad really loved the  way sports car drivers 
waved at each other and wouldn't give it up:)
 
Sorry, bit off track - this is more of a Father's Day story!
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack,  PA
1976 TR6 CF57822U
 
 
In a message dated 5/12/2012 8:27:53 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
wbeech at flash.net writes:

Not sure  if many of you have had your mother take off in your newly  
acquired
Triumph, but mine  did.

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Sun May 13 06:52:50 2012
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Sun, 13 May 2012 05:52:50 -0700
Subject: [TR] Mom in my TR3
In-Reply-To: <CEA923E166AD4685AC505BB7E0E5065D@ranteer.local>
References: <1336873237.34000.YahooMailClassic@web162201.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<CEA923E166AD4685AC505BB7E0E5065D@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <4FAFAEA2.2050108@gmail.com>

On 5/12/12 8:57 PM, Dave wrote:
>  and isn't interested. couldn't tell a camry from a cadillac.

Funny, neither can I unless I read the label.  I can tell the LBCs that 
died by or before 1981 and the mostly pre 1975ish race cars because I 
lived in a very car conscious social group growing up and as an early 
adult.  But these cars are frozen in time so once I learned the taxonomy 
I had it down.  It seems like in the late 1970's and 80's styles got 
really boring.  How could one get excited by a Mustang II?  Ever since 
then I pretty much lost interest in cars newer than the ones I learned 
in younger days.  Since then there are very few cars I've paid attention 
to.  I sure wouldn't kick a DB7 out of my garage but I might the newer 
DBs built by Jag.

I have my 1961 TR3 & my 1960 Land Rover Dormobile. I have an interest in 
a Morris Traveller or a MGA fixed head coupe plus a few others that I 
could never afford.  It seems enough for me.  The newer cars somehow 
just are short lived nannymobiiles that nanny the occupants and separate 
them from the classic motoring experience.

So yes, one more woman who can bot tell a camry from a cadillac and 
isn't interested enough to learn.

Teriann

From terryrs at comcast.net  Sun May 13 06:55:36 2012
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 13 May 2012 12:55:36 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Interesting Cam Condition
In-Reply-To: <4D4FABA15328FC42B1AA0DEE4673548C86F7FD3424@DR-EX-04.datacenter.dataresolution.net>
Message-ID: <1464725387.337428.1336913736413.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

I have become a sudden and sound believer in ZDP.  

When I last rebuilt my engine something like 8 years ago, I bought lifters that Ken Gilanders at British Frame and Engine described as more hardened than usual.  I also sent my cam off somewhere out west to a machine shop to be reground.  

When I broke the engine down in April, what I found was that the lifters on the exhaust lobes were destroyed on the bottom, where the surface was not overly lapped, but rather cratered.  Same on the Camshaft.  Inlet lobes and lifters seemed much better.  (Why would that be?)

8 years ago, the cam came back as bare metal...no seeming special treatment.  This time, I went to a local machine shop I trust.  The reground cam came back covered in black stuff that they tell me is a specially prepared designed layer designed to hold oil and protect the hardened surface until it "laps in."   my friend Barry at the machine shop also gave me a small bottle of ZDP and said to use that instead of assembly lube.  "Then pour the rest of the bottle into the 30 weight non-detergent you'll use to break the engine in."

Question, though.  I would have thought that ZDP would protect from wear as opposed to this deep pitting.  No?

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com  Sun May 13 20:16:35 2012
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Sun, 13 May 2012 19:16:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Interesting Cam Condition
Message-ID: <1336961795.74111.YahooMailNeo@web39403.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Terry Smith wrote:
I have become a sudden and sound believer in ZDP. 

When I
last rebuilt my engine something like 8 years ago, I bought lifters that Ken
Gillanders at British Frame and Engine described as more hardened than usual.
I also sent my cam off somewhere out west to a machine shop to be reground.
When I broke the engine down in April, what I found was that the lifters on
the exhaust lobes were destroyed on the bottom, where the surface was not
overly lapped, but
 rather cratered.  Same on the Camshaft.  Inlet lobes and
lifters seemed much better.  (Why would that be?)

8 years ago, the cam came
back as bare metal...no seeming special treatment.  This time, I went to a
local machine shop I trust.  The reground cam came back covered in black stuff
that they tell me is a specially prepared designed layer designed to hold oil
and protect the hardened surface until it "laps in."   my friend Barry at the
machine shop also gave me a small bottle of ZDP and said to use that instead
of assembly lube.  "Then pour the rest of the bottle into the 30 weight
non-detergent you'll use to break the engine in."

Question, though.  I would
have thought that ZDP would protect from wear as opposed to this deep pitting.
No?

Terry Smith
---------------
Hi Terry!
I'm very interested in this thread,
because I too have purchased these lifters from Ken G. back in 2K when I did
my engine rebuild. I have some questions to ask you:
1- What oil were you
using in your Engine since you did the rebuild?
 
2- How often did you change
the oil? Miles vs time?
 
3- Did you purchase this oil each year when you did
your oil changes, or did you purchase much of the oil in quaint, BEFORE the
change came about on needing to add ZDP into the now-a-day oil?
 
4- What oil
filters where you using?
 
5- Only used one type of oil or changing brands
form time to time?
 
6- What tappets are you using NOW? Because Ken G. sold me
tappet sleeves to install into my engine for his tappets to fit properly.
 TIA,
-Cosmo Kramer

From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com  Sun May 13 20:27:30 2012
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Sun, 13 May 2012 19:27:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Interesting Cam Condition
Message-ID: <1336962450.93786.YahooMailNeo@web39402.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Date: Sun, 13 May 2012 
From: terryrs at comcast.net
Subject: [TR] Interesting
Cam Condition

I have become a sudden and sound believer in ZDP. 

When I last
rebuilt my engine something like 8 years ago, I bought lifters that Ken
Gilanders at British Frame and Engine described as more hardened than usual.
I also sent my cam off somewhere out west to a machine shop to be reground.
When I broke the engine down in April, what I found was that the lifters on
the exhaust lobes were destroyed on the bottom, where the surface was not
overly lapped, but rather cratered.  Same on the Camshaft.  Inlet lobes and
lifters seemed much better.  (Why would that be?)

8 years ago, the cam came
back as bare metal...no seeming special treatment.  This time, I went to a
local machine shop I trust.  The reground cam came back covered in black stuff
that they tell me is a specially prepared designed layer designed to hold oil
and protect the hardened surface until it "laps in."   my friend Barry at the
machine shop also gave me a small bottle of ZDP and said to use that instead
of assembly lube.  "Then pour the rest of the bottle into the 30 weight
non-detergent you'll use to break the engine in."

Question, though.  I would
have thought that ZDP would protect from wear as opposed to this deep pitting.
No?

Terry Smith
---------------
Hi terry!
I'm very interested in this thread,
because I too have purchased these lifters from Ken G. back in 2K when I did
my engine rebuild. I have some questions to ask you:
1- What oil were you
using in your Engine since you did the rebuild?
 
2- How often did you change
the oil? Miles vs time?
 
3- Did you purchase this oil each year when you did
your oil changes, or did you purchase much of the oil in quanty, BEFORE the
change came about on needing to add ZDP into the now-a-day oil?
 
4- What oil
filters where you using?
 
5- Only used one type of oil or changing brands
form time to time?
 
6- What tappets are you using NOW? Because Ken G. sold me
tappet sleeves to install into my engine for his tappets to fit properly.
 TIA,
-Cosmo Kramer

From mark at bradakis.com  Sun May 13 23:00:54 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 13 May 2012 23:00:54 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [TR] Team.Net notes
Message-ID: <20120514050054.680FC2E088@bradakis.com>

       n case you are wondering:

http://www.team.net/status.html


mjb.

From peterara at msn.com  Mon May 14 06:12:05 2012
From: peterara at msn.com (Peter Arakelian)
Date: Mon, 14 May 2012 05:12:05 -0700
Subject: [TR] Interesting Cam Condition
Message-ID: <COL122-DS3D28935D949917DB0882EC11A0@phx.gbl>

There is a ZDDP assembly paste available, too...
Also, the pitting is a clear sign of breakdown as the matrix that is formed in
hardening breaks down from lack of ZDDP.

Peter Arakelian

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Mon May 14 07:20:54 2012
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Mon, 14 May 2012 06:20:54 -0700
Subject: [TR] Interesting Cam Condition
In-Reply-To: <COL122-DS3D28935D949917DB0882EC11A0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL122-DS3D28935D949917DB0882EC11A0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4FB106B6.8020201@gmail.com>

On 5/14/12 5:12 AM, Peter Arakelian wrote:
> There is a ZDDP assembly paste available, too...
> Also, the pitting is a clear sign of breakdown as the matrix that is formed in
> hardening breaks down from lack of ZDDP.
>
Pitting.  That is why the cams and lifters were replaced in both of my 
cars year before last.  I discovered high quality name brand oil is only 
good for roller cams. Since then I always read the label and don't buy 
it unless it mentions that it is formulated to protect flat lifter 
cams.  Now I'm getting name brand oil stating "not legal for street 
use"  which means I have to stay after those leaks to keep oil off the 
street.;)

And I have picked up oils who's brands I hardly recognize if at all that 
are clearly more expensive than normal name brand stuff just because it 
says it has ZDDP added for flat tappet engines.

My pocket book does not want to take the hit of replacing cams, lifters, 
+ timing chain, gears & tensioner (because they wear & this is the best 
time to replace them) on two cars at the same time for a long time.

Teriann

From dave at ranteer.com  Mon May 14 08:11:15 2012
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Mon, 14 May 2012 09:11:15 -0500
Subject: [TR] Interesting Cam Condition
In-Reply-To: <4FB106B6.8020201@gmail.com>
References: <COL122-DS3D28935D949917DB0882EC11A0@phx.gbl>
	<4FB106B6.8020201@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <AC86C64B42F9486B897C3DFEF649EFFD@ranteer.local>

last time I was in a flaps, the valvoline synthetic 20w-50 racing oil had 
zddp

-----Original Message----- 
From: TeriAnn J. Wakeman
Sent: Monday, May 14, 2012 8:20 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Interesting Cam Condition

On 5/14/12 5:12 AM, Peter Arakelian wrote:
> There is a ZDDP assembly paste available, too...
> Also, the pitting is a clear sign of breakdown as the matrix that is 
> formed in
> hardening breaks down from lack of ZDDP. 

From Michael.Mack at redcross.org  Mon May 14 09:24:00 2012
From: Michael.Mack at redcross.org (Mack, Michael (Rochester))
Date: Mon, 14 May 2012 15:24:00 +0000
Subject: [TR] Interesting Cam Condition
In-Reply-To: <4FB106B6.8020201@gmail.com>
References: <COL122-DS3D28935D949917DB0882EC11A0@phx.gbl>
	<4FB106B6.8020201@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6A6C6BB6A374144385E5E3CF3864B5450618D272@BY2PRD0410MB377.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>

I was planning on using 20w-50 Mobil 1 in my TR8.  Then add some of the ZDDP
additive that Eastwood sells.  Good idea?  Flawed idea?  Probably cheaper that
those expensive Royal Purple or Red Line oils.

Mike Mack
80 TR8 FI DHC
79 Spitfire
70 GT6+
72 Stag

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Mon May 14 09:58:22 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Mon, 14 May 2012 08:58:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Interesting Cam Condition
In-Reply-To: <4FB106B6.8020201@gmail.com>
References: <COL122-DS3D28935D949917DB0882EC11A0@phx.gbl>
	<4FB106B6.8020201@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1337011102.96641.YahooMailNeo@web120201.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

iv been using Valvoline "racing" oil, right off the shelf of my local
autozone.
it is formulated the old way and specifically says its good for flat
tappets and has ZDDP.
it is 50 weight, but as i live in California's desert
heat and the motor gets hot real quick, iv had no problems with the viscosity.
Frank

From: TeriAnn J. Wakeman <tjwakeman at gmail.com>
To:
triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Monday, May 14, 2012 6:20 AM
Subject: Re: [TR]
Interesting Cam Condition

On 5/14/12 5:12 AM, Peter Arakelian wrote:
> There
is a ZDDP assembly paste available, too...
> Also, the pitting is a clear sign
of breakdown as the matrix that is formed in
> hardening breaks down from lack
of ZDDP.
> 
Pitting.  That is why the cams and lifters were replaced in both
of my cars year before last.  I discovered high quality name brand oil is only
good for roller cams. Since then I always read the label and don't buy it
unless it mentions that it is formulated to protect flat lifter cams.  Now I'm
getting name brand oil stating "not legal for street use"  which means I have
to stay after those leaks to keep oil off the street.;)

And I have picked up
oils who's brands I hardly recognize if at all that are clearly more expensive
than normal name brand stuff just because it says it has ZDDP added for flat
tappet engines.

My pocket book does not want to take the hit of replacing
cams, lifters, + timing chain, gears & tensioner (because they wear & this is
the best time to replace them) on two cars at the same time for a long time.
Teriann

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Mon May 14 10:12:38 2012
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Mon, 14 May 2012 09:12:38 -0700
Subject: [TR] Interesting Cam Condition
In-Reply-To: <6A6C6BB6A374144385E5E3CF3864B5450618D272@BY2PRD0410MB377.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
References: <COL122-DS3D28935D949917DB0882EC11A0@phx.gbl>
	<4FB106B6.8020201@gmail.com>
	<6A6C6BB6A374144385E5E3CF3864B5450618D272@BY2PRD0410MB377.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <4FB12EF6.4040402@gmail.com>

On 5/14/12 8:24 AM, Mack, Michael (Rochester) wrote:
> I was planning on using 20w-50 Mobil 1 in my TR8.  Then add some of the ZDDP additive that Eastwood sells.  Good idea?  Flawed idea?  Probably cheaper that those expensive Royal Purple or Red Line oils.
>
>
I seriously thought about your idea of pouring in your favorite brand 
name oil and following it up by glugging down a bottle of ZDDP additive.

But the more I thought of it the more I realized that a degree in 
Electronics & a second one in Marine Biology did not make me an oil 
chemist.  Not even with a minor in chemistry.  I have no idea what else 
is in that bottle of additive and how the chemicals in the additive 
might interact with the chemicals blended into the engine oil to produce 
different physical characteristics.

In my own little risk aversion way I decided that I would rather go with 
a single oil solution blended from the base up to work properly in my 
engine while protecting my cam and lifter surfaces.  There are 
professional oil chemists that know how their additives work together.  
I'm not one of them and I do not know whats in the bottles and how they 
interact to change their physical characteristics.  I learned very early 
on not to just mix things together in chemistry class to see what 
happens.  And was very thankful that the instructor did not notice.

Teriann
1960 Land Rover Dormobile - owned since 1978
1961 Triumph TR3 - owned since 1986 - the new car

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Mon May 14 10:13:04 2012
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh)
Date: Mon, 14 May 2012 09:13:04 -0700
Subject: [TR] Interesting Cam Condition
In-Reply-To: <AC86C64B42F9486B897C3DFEF649EFFD@ranteer.local>
References: <COL122-DS3D28935D949917DB0882EC11A0@phx.gbl>
	<4FB106B6.8020201@gmail.com>
	<AC86C64B42F9486B897C3DFEF649EFFD@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <1842348A-5B20-4E2C-93D5-93C5A4AA6D10@comcast.net>

Is this ZDDP?      Zinc dialkyldithiophosphate

If so it is in Redline Motor Oil 


On May 14, 2012, at 7:11 AM, Dave wrote:

> last time I was in a flaps, the valvoline synthetic 20w-50 racing oil had
zddp
>



Bill Pugh
1957 TR3 "Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA
anabil007 at comcast.net

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Mon May 14 10:15:44 2012
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Mon, 14 May 2012 09:15:44 -0700
Subject: [TR] Interesting Cam Condition
In-Reply-To: <AC86C64B42F9486B897C3DFEF649EFFD@ranteer.local>
References: <COL122-DS3D28935D949917DB0882EC11A0@phx.gbl>
	<4FB106B6.8020201@gmail.com>
	<AC86C64B42F9486B897C3DFEF649EFFD@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <4FB12FB0.5070903@gmail.com>

On 5/14/12 7:11 AM, Dave wrote:
> last time I was in a flaps, the valvoline synthetic 20w-50 racing oil 
> had zddp
>
And that is what is in my engines.  Even if the label states "not for 
street use".  It does state that it is blended for flat tappet engines.  
Always look for that statement on any bottle of oil you buy.

I get mine from NAPA.

Teriann

From rbtr3a at cox.net  Mon May 14 10:35:40 2012
From: rbtr3a at cox.net (Ronnie Babbitt)
Date: Mon, 14 May 2012 12:35:40 -0400
Subject: [TR] Where's Randall
Message-ID: <3344733B-2641-4709-8C41-9653756B6698@cox.net>

I haven't heard from him in a while.   

Ronnie

From brad.kahler at 141.com  Mon May 14 11:03:08 2012
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Mon, 14 May 2012 13:03:08 -0400
Subject: [TR] Interesting Cam Condition
In-Reply-To: <1337011102.96641.YahooMailNeo@web120201.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <COL122-DS3D28935D949917DB0882EC11A0@phx.gbl>
	<4FB106B6.8020201@gmail.com>
	<1337011102.96641.YahooMailNeo@web120201.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CADm3DLEaFJF3XbbfjfzX7_E-+UDtpFskb3xZwDcKG0jGx6+9gw@mail.gmail.com>

In Susan's Spitfire race car we only use Brad Penn 20w50 oil.  Lots of ZDDP
and seems to hold up well.  You have to special order it but I feel it's
well worth the cost.

Just my $0.02

Brad


On Mon, May 14, 2012 at 11:58 AM, Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com> wrote:

> iv been using Valvoline "racing" oil, right off the shelf of my local
> autozone.
> it is formulated the old way and specifically says its good for flat
> tappets and has ZDDP.
> it is 50 weight, but as i live in California's desert
> heat and the motor gets hot real quick, iv had no problems with the
> viscosity.
> Frank
>
> From: TeriAnn J. Wakeman <tjwakeman at gmail.com>
> To:
> triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Monday, May 14, 2012 6:20 AM
> Subject: Re: [TR]
> Interesting Cam Condition
>
> On 5/14/12 5:12 AM, Peter Arakelian wrote:
> > There
> is a ZDDP assembly paste available, too...
> > Also, the pitting is a clear sign
> of breakdown as the matrix that is formed in
> > hardening breaks down from lack
> of ZDDP.
> >
> Pitting.  That is why the cams and lifters were replaced in both
> of my cars year before last.  I discovered high quality name brand oil is
> only
> good for roller cams. Since then I always read the label and don't buy it
> unless it mentions that it is formulated to protect flat lifter cams.  Now
> I'm
> getting name brand oil stating "not legal for street use"  which means I
> have
> to stay after those leaks to keep oil off the street.;)
>
> And I have picked up
> oils who's brands I hardly recognize if at all that are clearly more
> expensive
> than normal name brand stuff just because it says it has ZDDP added for
> flat
> tappet engines.
>
> My pocket book does not want to take the hit of replacing
> cams, lifters, + timing chain, gears & tensioner (because they wear & this
> is
> the best time to replace them) on two cars at the same time for a long
> time.
> Teriann
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate:
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> http://www.team.net/forums
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>
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>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/brad.kahler at 141.com

From darrellw360 at mac.com  Mon May 14 11:08:12 2012
From: darrellw360 at mac.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Mon, 14 May 2012 17:08:12 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] Interesting Cam Condition
In-Reply-To: <6A6C6BB6A374144385E5E3CF3864B5450618D272@BY2PRD0410MB377.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <c3da599c-ebaf-6556-a093-a5006c4ab489@me.com>

FYI, I recently switched from Valvonine VR1 20w-50 to Red Line 10w-40.  I've
only run 3 full tanks of gas since the switch, but I'm seeing a consistent
improvement in fuel economy of over 1.5 MPG. If that is the case, I figure the
oil easily pays for itself.

I'm not sold on adding anything to the oil.
 Could be fine, but why risk it?

-Darrell

On May 14, 2012, at 08:24 AM,
"Mack, Michael (Rochester)" <Michael.Mack at redcross.org> wrote:

I was planning
on using 20w-50 Mobil 1 in my TR8. Then add some of the ZDDP
additive that
Eastwood sells. Good idea? Flawed idea? Probably cheaper that
those expensive
Royal Purple or Red Line oils.

Mike Mack
80 TR8 FI DHC
79 Spitfire
70 GT6+
72
Stag

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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60 at mac.com

From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca  Mon May 14 11:19:26 2012
From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (amcewen2 at cogeco.ca)
Date: Mon, 14 May 2012 13:19:26 -0400
Subject: [TR] Towing a TR3A without a trailer/dolly
Message-ID: <4fb13e9e.344.127d.31679@cogeco.ca>

Hi listers,

Not sure if this is a good idea or not but Im thinking of rigging my (daily
driver) TR3A to tow behind an RV without
a trailer or dolly (4 down in RV parlance).   Obviously I cant phone up the
tow bar people and get an off the
shelf mounting bracket for a TR so I was looking at having one fabricated.

My goal is to not reduce the ground clearance any more then is already there
so Id thought of using the 4 bolts that
go through the frame to hold the front bumper outriggers on.   If I use the
inner side of the bolt (between the frame
rails) it wont change the placement of the outriggers.  (I dont have a
rad/sump guard to get in the way).

I was thinking of a couple of 18 4-6mm flat steel sections shaped sort of
like Js (or flat field hockey stick)
lying on its back with a piece of say 2 box steel across the crook of the
J section to act as the mounting
point for the tow bar pins.   That way the bar angle wont interfere with the
bumper and it raises the mounting point
slightly and the pulling stress will be on the steel and not the welds.  Id
put the mounting pins a couple of inches
to the outside of the "J" to make the tow bar resemble a triangle a bit more
in the hops of improving stability.
Safety chains would attach behind the suspension uprights.

Ive seen MGBs and even a 356 towed like this so Im probably not the first TR
owner to try this,  any idea what the
thickness required for the J or the cross piece?  Am I nuts?  ;)

Thanks,

Art.

From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Mon May 14 11:46:50 2012
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Mon, 14 May 2012 13:46:50 -0400
Subject: [TR] Interesting Cam Condition
In-Reply-To: <4FB12EF6.4040402@gmail.com>
References: <COL122-DS3D28935D949917DB0882EC11A0@phx.gbl>
	<4FB106B6.8020201@gmail.com>
	<6A6C6BB6A374144385E5E3CF3864B5450618D272@BY2PRD0410MB377.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
	<4FB12EF6.4040402@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPK7CFDxk0wUtud+wPeF8FDZ6DexJOgmBAru4RQ85tGn49LPGw@mail.gmail.com>

Mobil has a FAQ on ZDDP and Mobil 1.
http://www.mobiloil.com/usa-english/motoroil/car_care/askmobil/ZDDP_Levels_Classic_Cars.aspx


Don
Saint Louis
1962 TR3B TSF202L

On Mon, May 14, 2012 at 12:12 PM, TeriAnn J. Wakeman <tjwakeman at gmail.com>wrote:

> On 5/14/12 8:24 AM, Mack, Michael (Rochester) wrote:
>
>> I was planning on using 20w-50 Mobil 1 in my TR8.  Then add some of the
>> ZDDP additive that Eastwood sells.  Good idea?  Flawed idea?  Probably
>> cheaper that those expensive Royal Purple or Red Line oils.
>>
>>
>>  I seriously thought about your idea of pouring in your favorite brand
> name oil and following it up by glugging down a bottle of ZDDP additive.
>
> But the more I thought of it the more I realized that a degree in
> Electronics & a second one in Marine Biology did not make me an oil
> chemist.  Not even with a minor in chemistry.  I have no idea what else is
> in that bottle of additive and how the chemicals in the additive might
> interact with the chemicals blended into the engine oil to produce
> different physical characteristics.
>
> In my own little risk aversion way I decided that I would rather go with a
> single oil solution blended from the base up to work properly in my engine
> while protecting my cam and lifter surfaces.  There are professional oil
> chemists that know how their additives work together.  I'm not one of them
> and I do not know whats in the bottles and how they interact to change
> their physical characteristics.  I learned very early on not to just mix
> things together in chemistry class to see what happens.  And was very
> thankful that the instructor did not notice.
>
> Teriann
> 1960 Land Rover Dormobile - owned since 1978
> 1961 Triumph TR3 - owned since 1986 - the new car
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> options/triumphs/don.hiscock@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com>

From wbeech at flash.net  Mon May 14 11:50:07 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Mon, 14 May 2012 12:50:07 -0500
Subject: [TR] Interesting Cam Condition
In-Reply-To: <AC86C64B42F9486B897C3DFEF649EFFD@ranteer.local>
References: <COL122-DS3D28935D949917DB0882EC11A0@phx.gbl><4FB106B6.8020201@gmail.com>
	<AC86C64B42F9486B897C3DFEF649EFFD@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <CA1CBECCB4DD4951997C5B2F56532BC6@bboffice>

Same here I use the VR1-20-50 conventional oil, same high ZDDP content.
3,500mi on the new engine with no problems.
B

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS30766L "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Hello, my name is Bill and I own an old British car.  Now...What are the
next 11 steps?"
 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave
Sent: Monday, May 14, 2012 9:11 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Interesting Cam Condition

last time I was in a flaps, the valvoline synthetic 20w-50 racing oil had
zddp

-----Original Message-----
From: TeriAnn J. Wakeman
Sent: Monday, May 14, 2012 8:20 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Interesting Cam Condition

On 5/14/12 5:12 AM, Peter Arakelian wrote:
> There is a ZDDP assembly paste available, too...
> Also, the pitting is a clear sign of breakdown as the matrix that is 
> formed in hardening breaks down from lack of ZDDP.

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From wbeech at flash.net  Mon May 14 11:51:16 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Mon, 14 May 2012 12:51:16 -0500
Subject: [TR] Interesting Cam Condition
In-Reply-To: <1842348A-5B20-4E2C-93D5-93C5A4AA6D10@comcast.net>
References: <COL122-DS3D28935D949917DB0882EC11A0@phx.gbl><4FB106B6.8020201@gmail.com><AC86C64B42F9486B897C3DFEF649EFFD@ranteer.local>
	<1842348A-5B20-4E2C-93D5-93C5A4AA6D10@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <65D6C172293E439BB3CE7C61FE90BCAC@bboffice>

Yep...

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Pugh
Sent: Monday, May 14, 2012 11:13 AM
To: Dave
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Interesting Cam Condition

Is this ZDDP?      Zinc dialkyldithiophosphate

If so it is in Redline Motor Oil 


On May 14, 2012, at 7:11 AM, Dave wrote:

> last time I was in a flaps, the valvoline synthetic 20w-50 racing oil
> had
zddp
>



Bill Pugh
1957 TR3 "Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA
anabil007 at comcast.net

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From thenicholls at verizon.net  Mon May 14 12:40:30 2012
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Mon, 14 May 2012 13:40:30 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] Interesting Cam Condition
Message-ID: <14057367.290683.1337020830152.JavaMail.root@vms170015>

 I also had been using the ZDDP additive in my 72 TR6, but had the same concern as expressed earlier about dumping a bottle of additive in the oil and was it really doing its job.

I have switched to Brad Penn myself, it is formulated with plenty of ZDDP and TRF is now stocking it.
 
Besides the fact it has a green color, I am very happy with it after 2 years of running it.

Craig

From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Mon May 14 12:43:48 2012
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Mon, 14 May 2012 14:43:48 -0400
Subject: [TR] [Norton AntiSpam]Re:  Interesting Cam Condition
In-Reply-To: <4FB12FB0.5070903@gmail.com>
References: <COL122-DS3D28935D949917DB0882EC11A0@phx.gbl><4FB106B6.8020201@gmail.com><AC86C64B42F9486B897C3DFEF649EFFD@ranteer.local>
	<4FB12FB0.5070903@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <28864CA9032846B59DD7511771AB59C4@AlexPC>

These are some of the best articles on this subject at the link below where 
several studies have been made. Here are the articles. This club and the oil 
company have developed oil specifically for our classics.

Here is an excerpt from one of the articles about Valvoline racing oils:
"Valvoline Racing oil is not designed for long term use it is for short 
intense use and racing purposes. Classic Car Motor Oil is designed for long 
term use in vintage engines and is the optimal oil."

price/quart (by the case) with shipping is about $6.25/quart delivered.

NAPA Valvoline racing oil is $6.50/quart

Here are the links as a FYI.

Here are the articles:
http://www.classiccarmotoroil.com/articles.html
Here are the products:
http://www.classiccarmotoroil.com/products.html

Alex Manzo
59TR3A
72 TR6


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman at gmail.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 14, 2012 12:15 PM
Subject: [Norton AntiSpam]Re: [TR] Interesting Cam Condition


> On 5/14/12 7:11 AM, Dave wrote:
>> last time I was in a flaps, the valvoline synthetic 20w-50 racing oil had 
>> zddp
>>
> And that is what is in my engines.  Even if the label states "not for 
> street use".  It does state that it is blended for flat tappet engines. 
> Always look for that statement on any bottle of oil you buy.
>
> I get mine from NAPA.
>
> Teriann

From willgray at vaxxine.com  Mon May 14 13:02:50 2012
From: willgray at vaxxine.com (David Willett)
Date: Mon, 14 May 2012 15:02:50 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A Turn Indicator
Message-ID: <52EA9928-4770-48F3-B7D5-52DDCDF9F3AF@vaxxine.com>

Help! The turn indicator mechanism on my steering wheel seems to have seized
up and won't engage for a right hand turn; I suspect one of the little
doo-hickies has got displaced.  My shop manual does not show how to access the
inside of the steering head. I seem to remember long ago when I assembled it
somebody loaned me a VHS tape showing how to take it all apart. Or is there a
website I could look at? Please don't tell me I have to disassemble the
steering column!

Thanks in advance.

Dave
David Willett
willgray at vaxxine.com
Ph: 905 468 0608

From Michael.Mack at redcross.org  Mon May 14 13:15:23 2012
From: Michael.Mack at redcross.org (Mack, Michael (Rochester))
Date: Mon, 14 May 2012 19:15:23 +0000
Subject: [TR] Interesting Cam Condition
In-Reply-To: <CAPK7CFDxk0wUtud+wPeF8FDZ6DexJOgmBAru4RQ85tGn49LPGw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <COL122-DS3D28935D949917DB0882EC11A0@phx.gbl>
	<4FB106B6.8020201@gmail.com>
	<6A6C6BB6A374144385E5E3CF3864B5450618D272@BY2PRD0410MB377.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
	<4FB12EF6.4040402@gmail.com>
	<CAPK7CFDxk0wUtud+wPeF8FDZ6DexJOgmBAru4RQ85tGn49LPGw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6A6C6BB6A374144385E5E3CF3864B5450618D937@BY2PRD0410MB377.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>

What levels of Zinc and Phosphorus are in the other ZDDP oils?


Data for Mobil 1 Oil:
Mobil 1
15W-50
Phosphorus ppm - 1200
Zinc ppm - 1300
Boosted, higher viscosity, advanced full synthetic formula designed for
performance vehicles.
HT/HS applications. Racing and Flat tappet applications.


Mike Mack
4 Pack of Assorted Triumphs: Tr8, Spit, Stag. GT6

From Michael.Mack at redcross.org  Mon May 14 14:20:45 2012
From: Michael.Mack at redcross.org (Mack, Michael (Rochester))
Date: Mon, 14 May 2012 20:20:45 +0000
Subject: [TR] ZDDP Levels in Various Oils
Message-ID: <6A6C6BB6A374144385E5E3CF3864B5450618DD6A@BY2PRD0410MB377.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>

Info that I gleaned from various sources.  Gathered up into one list.

ZDDP Oil Levels

Desired range of ZDDP is 1200-1400. Levels over that is too corrosive, for
Racing engines Only.

Valvoline VR1 race oil has up to 1300 PPM
Castrol SYNTEC 20/50 full syn has 1200 PPM. Make sure label says "recommended
for classic cars"
Red Line Synthetic has 1300 PPM
Brad Penn Grade 1 racing oil is a mineral oil with 1500 PPM
Classic Car Motor Oil made by DA Lubricants to specs for the Indiana region of
the classic Car Club of America has 1500-1600 PPM
Swepco 306 20w-50  has 1400 ppm
Mobil 1  Full Synthetic 15W-50 Silver Cap @ 1200 ppm
Summit Racing oil has 1800 ppm.  Made by Spectro Oil for Summit

Mike Mack
80 TR8 FI DHC
73 Stag - w/Chevy 350
79 Spitfire
70 GT6+

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon May 14 14:31:55 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 14 May 2012 13:31:55 -0700
Subject: [TR] Towing a TR3A without a trailer/dolly
In-Reply-To: <4fb13e9e.344.127d.31679@cogeco.ca>
References: <4fb13e9e.344.127d.31679@cogeco.ca>
Message-ID: <028e01cd3210$9aed4940$d0c7dbc0$@rr.com>

Likely you've already thought of this, but JIC: the TR gearbox will not
lubricate itself properly when being towed.  Short distances and low speeds
are OK, but I would disconnect the driveshaft for over 40 miles or so, or
freeway speeds for any distance.

Personally, I think it's a bad idea.  I used to flat-tow a FWD Chevy (which
didn't have the lubrication problem).  It towed well enough on average, but
had a tendency for the front wheels to get jammed against one lock when
pulling through driveways (leaving a gas station, for example).  And it had
positive caster, unlike a TR3A.  Also, after towing it that way for a few
years, I discovered that the front crossmember was broken through.  I don't
know if that had anything to do with the towing, but it seems suspicious to
me.

Combined with the hassle of disconnecting and reconnecting the driveshaft,
not to mention the hassle and modifications to hook up the lights to your
motorhome, a tow dolly or trailer seems like a wise investment to me.

Don't know if it's still true, but Joe A. used to have a local fabricator
who would make a custom TR trailer for a very reasonable price.  I would
have bought one myself, but don't have any place to store it (and the
motorhome is gone, partially for the same reason).

-- Randall 

From dbyam at tds.net  Mon May 14 14:35:37 2012
From: dbyam at tds.net (dbyam tds.net)
Date: Mon, 14 May 2012 16:35:37 -0400
Subject: [TR] Towing a TR-3
Message-ID: <CAPKpX8s9-N51RYtWAQWkZjNtTpOi1WMnxkZUvccEtkqKwn_LxQ@mail.gmail.com>

I towed my TR-4A back from FL to MI with a tow bar bolted to the Bumper
Mounts. No problem. Towed my TD from MI to NJ for the Circuit of Britian
and returned it to MI using the Bumper Mounts. No problem. You may want to
disconnect the drive shaft for a long (500+) tow. Biggest problem is
getting into and out of gas stations! I don't think it is necessary to
remove the bumper mount brackets that attach to the frame and build a
complex (redundant) mount. Just my two cents worth based on my experiences.

Doug

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Mon May 14 15:28:14 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Mon, 14 May 2012 14:28:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Interesting Cam Condition
In-Reply-To: <6A6C6BB6A374144385E5E3CF3864B5450618D937@BY2PRD0410MB377.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
References: <COL122-DS3D28935D949917DB0882EC11A0@phx.gbl>
	<4FB106B6.8020201@gmail.com>
	<6A6C6BB6A374144385E5E3CF3864B5450618D272@BY2PRD0410MB377.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
	<4FB12EF6.4040402@gmail.com>
	<CAPK7CFDxk0wUtud+wPeF8FDZ6DexJOgmBAru4RQ85tGn49LPGw@mail.gmail.com>
	<6A6C6BB6A374144385E5E3CF3864B5450618D937@BY2PRD0410MB377.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <1337030894.28404.YahooMailNeo@web120201.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Mike
i did not see any ZDDP in your description below
Frank

From: "Mack, Michael (Rochester)" <Michael.Mack at redcross.org>
To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" <triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Monday, May 14, 2012 12:15 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Interesting Cam Condition

What levels of Zinc and Phosphorus are in the other ZDDP oils?


Data for Mobil 1 Oil:
Mobil 1
15W-50
Phosphorus ppm - 1200
Zinc ppm - 1300
Boosted, higher viscosity, advanced full synthetic formula designed for
performance vehicles.
HT/HS applications. Racing and Flat tappet applications.


Mike Mack
4 Pack of Assorted Triumphs: Tr8, Spit, Stag. GT6

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From thenicholls at verizon.net  Mon May 14 15:29:38 2012
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Mon, 14 May 2012 16:29:38 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] Interesting Cam Condition
Message-ID: <5210508.310779.1337030978745.JavaMail.root@vznit170128>

Brad Penn:  http://www.penngrade1.com/zinc.aspx 
Roughly 1250 zinc and phosphorus
 
Craig
72 Triumhp TR6
 


On 05/14/12, Mack, Michael (Rochester)<Michael.Mack at redcross.org> wrote:

What levels of Zinc and Phosphorus are in the other ZDDP oils?


Data for Mobil 1 Oil:
Mobil 1
15W-50
Phosphorus ppm - 1200
Zinc ppm - 1300
Boosted, higher viscosity, advanced full synthetic formula designed for
performance vehicles.
HT/HS applications. Racing and Flat tappet applications.


Mike Mack
4 Pack of Assorted Triumphs: Tr8, Spit, Stag. GT6

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon May 14 15:51:54 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 14 May 2012 14:51:54 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A Turn Indicator
In-Reply-To: <52EA9928-4770-48F3-B7D5-52DDCDF9F3AF@vaxxine.com>
References: <52EA9928-4770-48F3-B7D5-52DDCDF9F3AF@vaxxine.com>
Message-ID: <02a501cd321b$c74758e0$55d60aa0$@rr.com>

> Or is there a website I could look at?

There is a Word document you can download at
http://goo.gl/j8CIs


> Please don't tell me I have to disassemble the
> steering column!

Only a little bit.  Start by pulling the column sub-harness out of its clip
on the inner fender, so you can get a few inches of slack in front of the
steering box (more if you have an adjustable steering column).  Then undo
the 3 small slotted-head set screws in the hub of the steering wheel.  That
should let you pull the control head away from the steering wheel, pulling
the wires along with it, far enough to turn it over and see the back.  

If the wires don't want to slide through the tube though (mine seem to be
glued in place by the pulling lubricant I used to get them there), you may
have to disconnect the sub-harness from the main harness (by the driver's
side horn), then remove the nut and gland at the front of the steering box.
Put something underneath to catch the oil (if any) as it drips out.  Then
pull the entire stator tube (with the wires still inside) out through the
steering wheel.  Don't forget to refill the steering box after it's all back
together.

Personally, I like to first remove the 3 flat head screws that are accessed
through the holes in the round metal plate, but the way shown in the
document above will work fine too.

I meant to write an article on re-assembly, but never did it.  There are
some photos that might help at
http://goo.gl/5Td0H

-- Randall 

From rjones at wfeca.net  Mon May 14 16:01:57 2012
From: rjones at wfeca.net (Robert Jones)
Date: Mon, 14 May 2012 17:01:57 -0500
Subject: [TR] [Wedge] ZDDP Levels in Various Oils
In-Reply-To: <6A6C6BB6A374144385E5E3CF3864B5450618DD6A@BY2PRD0410MB377.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
References: <6A6C6BB6A374144385E5E3CF3864B5450618DD6A@BY2PRD0410MB377.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <34799C25-598D-44B1-9618-708304BF5AB2@wfeca.net>

While we are at it, what is the best weight to use in a TR3, TR6 & TR8 stock
engine and why?

Bob
On May 14, 2012, at 3:20 PM, Mack, Michael (Rochester) wrote:

> Info that I gleaned from various sources.  Gathered up into one list.
>
> ZDDP Oil Levels
>
> Desired range of ZDDP is 1200-1400. Levels over that is too corrosive, for
> Racing engines Only.
>
> Valvoline VR1 race oil has up to 1300 PPM
> Castrol SYNTEC 20/50 full syn has 1200 PPM. Make sure label says
"recommended
> for classic cars"
> Red Line Synthetic has 1300 PPM
> Brad Penn Grade 1 racing oil is a mineral oil with 1500 PPM
> Classic Car Motor Oil made by DA Lubricants to specs for the Indiana region
of
> the classic Car Club of America has 1500-1600 PPM
> Swepco 306 20w-50  has 1400 ppm
> Mobil 1  Full Synthetic 15W-50 Silver Cap @ 1200 ppm
> Summit Racing oil has 1800 ppm.  Made by Spectro Oil for Summit
>
> Mike Mack
> 80 TR8 FI DHC
> 73 Stag - w/Chevy 350
> 79 Spitfire
> 70 GT6+
> --
> Forwarded via the TR7/8 mailing list. Please send administrative requests
> to the majordomo at tr8-request at mercury.lcs.mit.edu

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon May 14 16:05:12 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 14 May 2012 15:05:12 -0700
Subject: [TR] Interesting Cam Condition
In-Reply-To: <28864CA9032846B59DD7511771AB59C4@AlexPC>
References: <COL122-DS3D28935D949917DB0882EC11A0@phx.gbl><4FB106B6.8020201@gmail.com><AC86C64B42F9486B897C3DFEF649EFFD@ranteer.local>
	<4FB12FB0.5070903@gmail.com> <28864CA9032846B59DD7511771AB59C4@AlexPC>
Message-ID: <02a901cd321d$a2c98a90$e85c9fb0$@rr.com>

> "Valvoline Racing oil is not designed for long term use it is for short
> intense use and racing purposes. Classic Car Motor Oil is designed for
> long
> term use in vintage engines and is the optimal oil."

No doubt written by someone with a financial interest in Classic Car Motor
Oil.

There are 3 different kinds of Valvoline racing oil; the two that _don't_
say "Not Street Legal" both have lots of ZDDP and the additive package for
use on the street.  They also exceed the API grades that our engines
require.
http://goo.gl/F0L4f

I ran Valvoline 40W racing oil in my street TR3A for many years (back before
it was called VR1) and it worked very well for me, much better than the
Castrol of the time (which would thin out substantially in just a few
thousand miles).  The Castrol would also leave a layer of sludge in the oil
pan (and rocker shaft), while the Valvoline kept the inside of the engine
amazingly clean (considering its general condition otherwise).

I still use Valvoline today, but I've been using their "street" full
synthetic for the past 20 years or so.  Picked up a couple of boxes of
synthetic racing the last time it was on sale, though, so I plan to give it
a try.  The SynPower doesn't keep the inside of the engine quite as clean as
I remember.

-- Randall 

From wbeech at flash.net  Mon May 14 16:08:21 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Mon, 14 May 2012 17:08:21 -0500
Subject: [TR] ZDDP Levels in Various Oils
In-Reply-To: <6A6C6BB6A374144385E5E3CF3864B5450618DD6A@BY2PRD0410MB377.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
References: <6A6C6BB6A374144385E5E3CF3864B5450618DD6A@BY2PRD0410MB377.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <6F7099B01B7549D49A3A643CE87F0BA7@bboffice>

Just got back from Auto Zone, VR-1 20-50 is on sale for $3.29qt.  Pick up
eight quarts to cover the next change out (alloy sump).

Bill

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mack, Michael
(Rochester)
Sent: Monday, May 14, 2012 3:21 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Cc: tr8 at mercury.lcs.mit.edu
Subject: [TR] ZDDP Levels in Various Oils

Info that I gleaned from various sources.  Gathered up into one list.

ZDDP Oil Levels

Desired range of ZDDP is 1200-1400. Levels over that is too corrosive, for
Racing engines Only.

Valvoline VR1 race oil has up to 1300 PPM Castrol SYNTEC 20/50 full syn has
1200 PPM. Make sure label says "recommended for classic cars"
Red Line Synthetic has 1300 PPM
Brad Penn Grade 1 racing oil is a mineral oil with 1500 PPM Classic Car
Motor Oil made by DA Lubricants to specs for the Indiana region of the
classic Car Club of America has 1500-1600 PPM Swepco 306 20w-50  has 1400
ppm Mobil 1  Full Synthetic 15W-50 Silver Cap @ 1200 ppm Summit Racing oil
has 1800 ppm.  Made by Spectro Oil for Summit

Mike Mack
80 TR8 FI DHC
73 Stag - w/Chevy 350
79 Spitfire
70 GT6+

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon May 14 16:09:09 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 14 May 2012 15:09:09 -0700
Subject: [TR] Where's Randall
In-Reply-To: <3344733B-2641-4709-8C41-9653756B6698@cox.net>
References: <3344733B-2641-4709-8C41-9653756B6698@cox.net>
Message-ID: <02aa01cd321e$306ed530$914c7f90$@rr.com>

Check your SPAM folder, Ronnie!

-- Randall 

From wbeech at flash.net  Mon May 14 18:01:42 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Mon, 14 May 2012 19:01:42 -0500
Subject: [TR] [Wedge] ZDDP Levels in Various Oils
In-Reply-To: <34799C25-598D-44B1-9618-708304BF5AB2@wfeca.net>
References: <6A6C6BB6A374144385E5E3CF3864B5450618DD6A@BY2PRD0410MB377.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
	<34799C25-598D-44B1-9618-708304BF5AB2@wfeca.net>
Message-ID: <D84809B4-E817-4EF8-A845-3A890913DE98@flash.net>

Factory rec for the tr3 was 30w, before multi-grade oils.   I use 20-50 that
pretty much covers the bases for most people in most applications.

Sent from mobile Bill

On May 14, 2012, at 5:01 PM, Robert Jones <rjones at wfeca.net> wrote:

> While we are at it, what is the best weight to use in a TR3, TR6 & TR8
stock
> engine and why?
>
> Bob
> On May 14, 2012, at 3:20 PM, Mack, Michael (Rochester) wrote:
>
>> Info that I gleaned from various sources.  Gathered up into one list.
>>
>> ZDDP Oil Levels
>>
>> Desired range of ZDDP is 1200-1400. Levels over that is too corrosive, for
>> Racing engines Only.
>>
>> Valvoline VR1 race oil has up to 1300 PPM
>> Castrol SYNTEC 20/50 full syn has 1200 PPM. Make sure label says
> "recommended
>> for classic cars"
>> Red Line Synthetic has 1300 PPM
>> Brad Penn Grade 1 racing oil is a mineral oil with 1500 PPM
>> Classic Car Motor Oil made by DA Lubricants to specs for the Indiana
region
> of
>> the classic Car Club of America has 1500-1600 PPM
>> Swepco 306 20w-50  has 1400 ppm
>> Mobil 1  Full Synthetic 15W-50 Silver Cap @ 1200 ppm
>> Summit Racing oil has 1800 ppm.  Made by Spectro Oil for Summit
>>
>> Mike Mack
>> 80 TR8 FI DHC
>> 73 Stag - w/Chevy 350
>> 79 Spitfire
>> 70 GT6+
>> --
>> Forwarded via the TR7/8 mailing list. Please send administrative requests
>> to the majordomo at tr8-request at mercury.lcs.mit.edu
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From mathews at uga.edu  Mon May 14 18:54:56 2012
From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews)
Date: Mon, 14 May 2012 20:54:56 -0400
Subject: [TR] Randall is SPAM?
Message-ID: <4FB1A960.4070308@uga.edu>

Surely not!;-)

From fishplate at charter.net  Mon May 14 19:07:03 2012
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff)
Date: Mon, 14 May 2012 21:07:03 -0400
Subject: [TR] Towing a TR3A without a trailer/dolly
In-Reply-To: <028e01cd3210$9aed4940$d0c7dbc0$@rr.com>
References: <4fb13e9e.344.127d.31679@cogeco.ca>
	<028e01cd3210$9aed4940$d0c7dbc0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <4FB1AC37.2060703@charter.net>

On 5/14/2012 4:31 PM, Randall wrote:
> Combined with the hassle of disconnecting and reconnecting the driveshaft,

Not to detract form anything else you've said (all of which I agree 
with), but there are companies that make a quick disconnect for the 
drive shaft.  Looks something like the sliding member in your gearbox.  
A PITA, no doubt, to find or fabricate one for a TR3, but if you insist 
on going that route, it might be worth investigating.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon May 14 21:27:33 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 14 May 2012 20:27:33 -0700
Subject: [TR] [Wedge] ZDDP Levels in Various Oils
In-Reply-To: <D84809B4-E817-4EF8-A845-3A890913DE98@flash.net>
References: <6A6C6BB6A374144385E5E3CF3864B5450618DD6A@BY2PRD0410MB377.namprd04.prod.outlook.com><34799C25-598D-44B1-9618-708304BF5AB2@wfeca.net>
	<D84809B4-E817-4EF8-A845-3A890913DE98@flash.net>
Message-ID: <0b8101cd324a$ab30c040$0601a8c0@randall>

> Factory rec for the tr3 was 30w, before multi-grade oils.

Practical Hints (the factory owner's manual for TR3A) lists a variety of
weights, from 10W to 20W40, depending on expected air temperature.  

Earlier editions also listed 5W, but only for use in temperatures below
-10F.  Evidently they realized they were selling many cars to the poles,
because that line was dropped later on <g>

The TR3 version listed 40 weight, rather than 20W40, for temps over 70F.

-- Randall  

From team.net at Daveola.com  Mon May 14 21:36:43 2012
From: team.net at Daveola.com (David Ljung Madison)
Date: Mon, 14 May 2012 20:36:43 -0700
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 5, Issue 207
In-Reply-To: <52EA9928-4770-48F3-B7D5-52DDCDF9F3AF@vaxxine.com>
References: <52EA9928-4770-48F3-B7D5-52DDCDF9F3AF@vaxxine.com>
Message-ID: <E1SU8af-0006bI-TO@davesource.com>

> My shop manual does not show how to access the inside of the steering head.

Here are some photos that will help you remove it, that plus 
Randall's photos showing the internals of the control head should be 
all you need:

http://triumph.Daveola.com/Album/Horn-Removal/

Dave

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dave Ljung Madison          http://GetDave.com/                415.341.5555
--- "Why don't we take a vote?" I suggested.                           ----
    "No!" said David. "That's not fair because the majority will win!" 

From dave at ranteer.com  Tue May 15 06:47:40 2012
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Tue, 15 May 2012 07:47:40 -0500
Subject: [TR] correct color question
Message-ID: <28BB63B60ADD416D8FE48899A09E8AEB@ranteer.local>

valve cover 63 tr4
valve cover 75 spitfire
air cleaner 75 spitfire
hood prop rod 75 spitfire

thank you!

From wbeech at flash.net  Tue May 15 07:11:54 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Tue, 15 May 2012 08:11:54 -0500
Subject: [TR] Randall is SPAM?
In-Reply-To: <4FB1A960.4070308@uga.edu>
References: <4FB1A960.4070308@uga.edu>
Message-ID: <37E8D2BB0CD441508391F3D04FF81EE6@bboffice>

True, I never get Randall's replies to the list unless he emails me
directly, always have to go to the archives for his excellent wisdom.

Bill 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Doug Mathews
Sent: Monday, May 14, 2012 7:55 PM
To: 'Triumph Mail List'
Subject: [TR] Randall is SPAM?

Surely not!;-)

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From pethier at comcast.net  Tue May 15 08:27:42 2012
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 15 May 2012 14:27:42 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Where do I get Stag seat belt inertia reels?
In-Reply-To: 009f6cc248a678a743c09327f0793860.TriumphStagdotNetForum
Message-ID: <664092304.453415.1337092062374.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I'll tell you the story later.

Right now, I need to know where to get Stag seat belt inertia reels.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://www.mnautox.com

From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca  Tue May 15 08:45:09 2012
From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (amcewen2 at cogeco.ca)
Date: Tue, 15 May 2012 10:45:09 -0400
Subject: [TR] Towing a TR3A without a trailer/dolly
Message-ID: <4fb26bf5.195.3233.90@cogeco.ca>

Thanks John (and others),

I sort of wondered if where the bumper attachs to the outriggers was strong
enough but thought the frame would be even
stronger.

However the lack of lubrication to the gearbox is sort of turning me off the
idea.  I could disconnect the driveshaft,
but then I'd have to carry a jack, jackstands, coveralls etc.. and it starts
to defeat the relaxation & fun elements I
was hoping for. ;)

It's too bad the track is too narrow for Uhaul trailers....

Art


>
> A long, long time ago (1972) in a place far far away, I towed my 58 MGA from
Webb AFB, Texas to Pittsburg PA when I
> left the USAF to start grad school.  I used a one-off rig that attached to
the front bumper bolts that was designed &
> built by a local welding shop bakin Big Spring, TX.  Four years later I used
the same rig to tow the MGA from
> Pittsburgh to St Louis (first job after grad school).  No problems...
>
> John
>
> On  14 May, 2012, at 1:19 PM, amcewen2 at cogeco.ca wrote:
>
> > Hi listers,
> >
> > Not sure if this is a good idea or not but Im thinking of rigging my
(daily
> > driver) TR3A to tow behind an RV without
> > a trailer or dolly (4 down in RV parlance).   Obviously I cant phone up
the
> > tow bar people and get an off the
> > shelf mounting bracket for a TR so I was looking at having one
fabricated.
> >
> > My goal is to not reduce the ground clearance any more then is already
there
> > so Id thought of using the 4 bolts that
> > go through the frame to hold the front bumper outriggers on.   If I use
the
> > inner side of the bolt (between the frame
> > rails) it wont change the placement of the outriggers.  (I dont have a
> > rad/sump guard to get in the way).
> >
> > I was thinking of a couple of 18 4-6mm flat steel sections shaped sort
of
> > like Js (or flat field hockey stick)
> > lying on its back with a piece of say 2 box steel across the crook of
the
> > J section to act as the mounting
> > point for the tow bar pins.   That way the bar angle wont interfere with
the
> > bumper and it raises the mounting point
> > slightly and the pulling stress will be on the steel and not the welds.
Id
> > put the mounting pins a couple of inches
> > to the outside of the "J" to make the tow bar resemble a triangle a bit
more
> > in the hops of improving stability.
> > Safety chains would attach behind the suspension uprights.
> >
> > Ive seen MGBs and even a 356 towed like this so Im probably not the
first TR
> > owner to try this,  any idea what the
> > thickness required for the J or the cross piece?  Am I nuts?  ;)
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Art.
> >
> > ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3a.60 at gmail.com
>
> John A. Wise
> Ormond Beach, FL
>
> 1960 Triumph TR3A
> Commission No: TS80422L
> http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
> http://www.triumphowners.com/876
>
> 1977 Porsche 911S
> http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From mark at bradakis.com  Tue May 15 09:12:39 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Tue, 15 May 2012 09:12:39 -0600
Subject: [TR] correct color question
In-Reply-To: <28BB63B60ADD416D8FE48899A09E8AEB@ranteer.local>
References: <28BB63B60ADD416D8FE48899A09E8AEB@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <4FB27267.8080708@bradakis.com>

Dave wrote:
> valve cover 63 tr4
> valve cover 75 spitfire
> air cleaner 75 spitfire
> hood prop rod 75 spitfire
>
>
 From memory the TR4 valve cover should be chrome, silver on the Spit.
Air cleaner I think was black, the prop rod should be body color.

mjb.

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Tue May 15 09:18:01 2012
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Tue, 15 May 2012 11:18:01 -0400
Subject: [TR] correct color question
In-Reply-To: <28BB63B60ADD416D8FE48899A09E8AEB@ranteer.local>
References: <28BB63B60ADD416D8FE48899A09E8AEB@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <4FB273A9.7080305@adelphia.net>

Dave,

Cant answer for the Spits, but the 63 TR4 is chrome plated like the TR3 
but with the oil fill/breather at the rear of the cover.

Bob

On 05/15/2012 08:47 AM, Dave wrote:
> valve cover 63 tr4
> valve cover 75 spitfire
> air cleaner 75 spitfire
> hood prop rod 75 spitfire
>
> thank you!
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr at adelphia.net

From tr3a.60 at gmail.com  Tue May 15 09:50:50 2012
From: tr3a.60 at gmail.com (John Wise)
Date: Tue, 15 May 2012 11:50:50 -0400
Subject: [TR] Towing a TR3A without a trailer/dolly
In-Reply-To: <4fb26bf5.195.3233.90@cogeco.ca>
References: <4fb26bf5.195.3233.90@cogeco.ca>
Message-ID: <6F6B6E4D-7770-4070-8953-1A5E20A9E6D4@gmail.com>

WHIW, that 58 MGA as my daily driver for about 8-9 years through hot summers
and the cold & snow in both St Louis & Pittsburgh AFTER those tows.  I had all
the typical LBC problems with that little car; but the tranny I sold it with
was exactly the same tranny I bought it with!  Not one repair!  Being an over
educated professor, I know that anything mechanical can happen or not happen
at anytime.  But it is too good of a LBC story not to share!  :-)

John


On  15 May, 2012, at 10:45 AM, amcewen2 at cogeco.ca wrote:

> Thanks John (and others),
>
> I sort of wondered if where the bumper attachs to the outriggers was strong
enough but thought the frame would be even
> stronger.
>
> However the lack of lubrication to the gearbox is sort of turning me off the
idea.  I could disconnect the driveshaft,
> but then I'd have to carry a jack, jackstands, coveralls etc.. and it starts
to defeat the relaxation & fun elements I
> was hoping for. ;)
>
> It's too bad the track is too narrow for Uhaul trailers....
>
> Art
>
>
>>
>> A long, long time ago (1972) in a place far far away, I towed my 58 MGA
from Webb AFB, Texas to Pittsburg PA when I
>> left the USAF to start grad school.  I used a one-off rig that attached to
the front bumper bolts that was designed &
>> built by a local welding shop bakin Big Spring, TX.  Four years later I
used the same rig to tow the MGA from
>> Pittsburgh to St Louis (first job after grad school).  No problems...
>>
>> John
>>
>> On  14 May, 2012, at 1:19 PM, amcewen2 at cogeco.ca wrote:
>>
>>> Hi listers,
>>>
>>> Not sure if this is a good idea or not but Im thinking of rigging my
(daily
>>> driver) TR3A to tow behind an RV without
>>> a trailer or dolly (4 down in RV parlance).   Obviously I cant phone up
the
>>> tow bar people and get an off the
>>> shelf mounting bracket for a TR so I was looking at having one
fabricated.
>>>
>>> My goal is to not reduce the ground clearance any more then is already
there
>>> so Id thought of using the 4 bolts that
>>> go through the frame to hold the front bumper outriggers on.   If I use
the
>>> inner side of the bolt (between the frame
>>> rails) it wont change the placement of the outriggers.  (I dont have a
>>> rad/sump guard to get in the way).
>>>
>>> I was thinking of a couple of 18 4-6mm flat steel sections shaped sort
of
>>> like Js (or flat field hockey stick)
>>> lying on its back with a piece of say 2 box steel across the crook of
the
>>> J section to act as the mounting
>>> point for the tow bar pins.   That way the bar angle wont interfere with
the
>>> bumper and it raises the mounting point
>>> slightly and the pulling stress will be on the steel and not the welds.
Id
>>> put the mounting pins a couple of inches
>>> to the outside of the "J" to make the tow bar resemble a triangle a bit
more
>>> in the hops of improving stability.
>>> Safety chains would attach behind the suspension uprights.
>>>
>>> Ive seen MGBs and even a 356 towed like this so Im probably not the
first TR
>>> owner to try this,  any idea what the
>>> thickness required for the J or the cross piece?  Am I nuts?  ;)
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Art.
>>>
>>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3a.60 at gmail.com
>>
>> John A. Wise
>> Ormond Beach, FL
>>
>> 1960 Triumph TR3A
>> Commission No: TS80422L
>> http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
>> http://www.triumphowners.com/876
>>
>> 1977 Porsche 911S
>> http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/
>>
>>

John A. Wise
Ormond Beach, FL

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Tue May 15 10:23:14 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Tue, 15 May 2012 09:23:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Towing a TR3A without a trailer/dolly
In-Reply-To: <4fb26bf5.195.3233.90@cogeco.ca>
References: <4fb26bf5.195.3233.90@cogeco.ca>
Message-ID: <1337098994.70313.YahooMailNeo@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Art
my TR3 came home on a U-haul trailer.
its just barely wide enough in the
middle to get the car on.
if you ask U-Haul they will tell you it does not
fit. and then they wont rent it to you. so you have to mislead them a little
and suggest its an MGB. OMG!
but as most Americans call all British cars MG
you too can feign ignorance.
Frank

From: "amcewen2 at cogeco.ca"
<amcewen2 at cogeco.ca>
To: John Wise <tr3a.60 at gmail.com> 
Cc:
triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2012 7:45 AM
Subject: Re: [TR]
Towing a TR3A without a trailer/dolly

Thanks John (and others),

I sort of
wondered if where the bumper attachs to the outriggers was strong
enough but
thought the frame would be even
stronger.

However the lack of lubrication to
the gearbox is sort of turning me off the
idea.  I could disconnect the
driveshaft,
but then I'd have to carry a jack, jackstands, coveralls etc.. and
it starts
to defeat the relaxation & fun elements I
was hoping for. ;)

It's
too bad the track is too narrow for Uhaul trailers....

Art


>
> A long, long
time ago (1972) in a place far far away, I towed my 58 MGA from
Webb AFB,
Texas to Pittsburg PA when I
> left the USAF to start grad school.  I used a
one-off rig that attached to
the front bumper bolts that was designed &
>
built by a local welding shop bakin Big Spring, TX.  Four years later I used
the same rig to tow the MGA from
> Pittsburgh to St Louis (first job after
grad school).  No problems...
>
> John
>
> On  14 May, 2012, at 1:19 PM,
amcewen2 at cogeco.ca wrote:
>
> > Hi listers,
> >
> > Not sure if this is a good
idea or not but Im thinking of rigging my
(daily
> > driver) TR3A to tow
behind an RV without
> > a trailer or dolly (4 down in RV parlance). 
Obviously I cant phone up
the
> > tow bar people and get an off the
> > shelf
mounting bracket for a TR so I was looking at having one
fabricated.
> >
> >
My goal is to not reduce the ground clearance any more then is already
there
>
> so Id thought of using the 4 bolts that
> > go through the frame to hold the
front bumper outriggers on.  If I use
the
> > inner side of the bolt (between
the frame
> > rails) it wont change the placement of the outriggers.  (I dont
have a
> > rad/sump guard to get in the way).
> >
> > I was thinking of a
couple of 18 4-6mm flat steel sections shaped sort
of
> > like Js (or flat
field hockey stick)
> > lying on its back with a piece of say 2 box steel
across the crook of
the
> > J section to act as the mounting
> > point for the
tow bar pins.  That way the bar angle wont interfere with
the
> > bumper and
it raises the mounting point
> > slightly and the pulling stress will be on
the steel and not the welds.
Id
> > put the mounting pins a couple of inches
>
> to the outside of the "J" to make the tow bar resemble a triangle a bit
more
> > in the hops of improving stability.
> > Safety chains would attach behind
the suspension uprights.
> >
> > Ive seen MGBs and even a 356 towed like this
so Im probably not the
first TR
> > owner to try this,  any idea what the
> >
thickness required for the J or the cross piece?  Am I nuts?  ;)
> >
> >
Thanks,
> >
> > Art.
> >
> > ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> >
> > Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3a.60 at gmail.com
>
> John A.
Wise
> Ormond Beach, FL
>
> 1960 Triumph TR3A
> Commission No: TS80422L
>
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
> http://www.triumphowners.com/876
>
> 1977
Porsche 911S
> http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

** triumphs at autox.team.net
**

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com

From greg at gelhar.com  Tue May 15 12:04:30 2012
From: greg at gelhar.com (greg at gelhar.com)
Date: Tue, 15 May 2012 14:04:30 -0400
Subject: [TR] Where do I get Stag seat belt inertia reels?
In-Reply-To: <664092304.453415.1337092062374.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.c
	omcast.net>
References: <664092304.453415.1337092062374.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <d75d3e473043d64f99246eaeaff95ec9.squirrel@email.accountsupport.com>

Phil,

A good source for seat belts is Securon.

http://www.securon.co.uk/seat_belt_harness_road_vehicles.htm

Unless your looking for the original Kangoil brand, they have what you need.



Greg G.
Osseo, MN

> I'll tell you the story later.
>
> Right now, I need to know where to get Stag seat belt inertia reels.
>
> Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
> 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
> 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
> 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
> 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
> pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
> http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
> http://www.mnautox.com
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/greg at gelhar.com

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue May 15 12:19:57 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 15 May 2012 11:19:57 -0700
Subject: [TR] Towing a TR3A without a trailer/dolly
In-Reply-To: <4fb26bf5.195.3233.90@cogeco.ca>
References: <4fb26bf5.195.3233.90@cogeco.ca>
Message-ID: <036901cd32c7$55b35830$011a0890$@rr.com>

> I sort of wondered if where the bumper attachs to the outriggers was
> strong enough

I tried that with my 59 TR3A, for a short (15 miles) tow at no more than 30
mph.  The damage to the front apron was mild, but it was enough to convince
me not to do it again!

-- Randall 

From lherault at bu.edu  Tue May 15 12:19:24 2012
From: lherault at bu.edu (Ron L'Herault)
Date: Tue, 15 May 2012 14:19:24 -0400
Subject: [TR] '58 TR-3 hood
Message-ID: <010601cd32c7$41b1e270$c515a750$@bu.edu>

Anyone need a slightly sprung/creased hood for a TR-3?  It has a small bit
of rust along its front edge now.  I'm willing to sell it cheap as long as
it goes to a good home.  It is the last bit of my first car.   We're located
between Boston and Providence.   Pick up only please or arrange for someone
to get it or pack it and ship it.    $50.00

Ron L

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue May 15 12:24:19 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 15 May 2012 11:24:19 -0700
Subject: [TR] Randall is SPAM?
In-Reply-To: <37E8D2BB0CD441508391F3D04FF81EE6@bboffice>
References: <4FB1A960.4070308@uga.edu>
	<37E8D2BB0CD441508391F3D04FF81EE6@bboffice>
Message-ID: <036a01cd32c7$f260c000$d7224000$@rr.com>

> True, I never get Randall's replies to the list unless he emails me
> directly, always have to go to the archives for his excellent wisdom.

Which is really strange, since I (almost) always see them come through back
to me.

Every once in awhile, though, my overzealous email client will tag them as
spam.  I have it set to not move them to the spam folder IF they come from
Team.Net, but I still get the [SPAM] tag in the subject line.

-- Randall 

From Michael.Mack at redcross.org  Tue May 15 13:01:13 2012
From: Michael.Mack at redcross.org (Mack, Michael (Rochester))
Date: Tue, 15 May 2012 19:01:13 +0000
Subject: [TR] Towing a TR3A without a trailer/dolly
In-Reply-To: <1337098994.70313.YahooMailNeo@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <4fb26bf5.195.3233.90@cogeco.ca>
	<1337098994.70313.YahooMailNeo@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <6A6C6BB6A374144385E5E3CF3864B54506190769@BY2PRD0410MB377.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>

U-Haul Trailers - I have brought all these cars home with them.

Car Dolly - 79 Spitfire - Disconnected drive shaft
Trailer - Aluminum 4 wheel - 70 GT6
Trailer - Steel 4 wheels - 73 Stag

Tell them you are trailering a 1990 Honda Civic.  If they can not find your
Triumph in their computer they get all flustered, and it slows things down.
They never see you car anyway.
The Gt6 probably has the narrowed distance between the tires, and it will fit
on all their tralers/dolleys.

Mike Mack

From tedtsimx at bright.net  Tue May 15 13:14:59 2012
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Tue, 15 May 2012 15:14:59 -0400
Subject: [TR] Kastner Cup shirt reprint
Message-ID: <4FB2AB33.3090208@bright.net>

Hello list members.  We did not receive enough orders to reprint the Kas 
Cup shirt.  For those who did order, thanks for the effort. Ted

-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US&  Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022

From triumphstag at gmail.com  Tue May 15 14:12:53 2012
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Tue, 15 May 2012 13:12:53 -0700
Subject: [TR] who often should I change oil in a a less frequently used LBC
Message-ID: <CANLCLaG83QYm0EbNU6+9JVZP253r3g3iLW_=DCimyw9H19Uy6Q@mail.gmail.com>

Last check. Last oil change was 3 years ago, but only driven about 800
miles. Each trip very short runs.

Sujit
'71 Stag

-- 
Sujit Roy, Realtor
Keller Williams Realty, Cupertino, CA
(408) 839-8359
roysrealty.com

From mhooper at indiefilmnet.com  Tue May 15 14:39:00 2012
From: mhooper at indiefilmnet.com (Mark Hooper)
Date: Tue, 15 May 2012 16:39:00 -0400
Subject: [TR] Fuel Shutoff valve question
In-Reply-To: <28864CA9032846B59DD7511771AB59C4@AlexPC>
Message-ID: <cb08bafe.1cd32da.60a630f.6d40@indiefilmnet.com>

I'm planning to put a solenoid fuel shut-off valve in my TR6's fuel line. I
keep getting fuel draining into the sump, despite having a filter in the fuel
line and 3 recently rebuilt carbs.

I found an interesting site: www.altfuel.com which has quite a selection of
valves. I have a question about the specs which are as follows:

Part number 7008A-12V-O is a pilot operated 12 volt electrically operated fuel
shut off. This is a U.L. listed valve for LPG and gasoline. The 7008 series
valves are 1800 inlet to outlet with 1/4 NPT threads. This valve is assembled
and 100% tested at Alternative Fuel Systems, Inc. It has been the standard in
LPG fuel systems for over 30 years for its reliability and durability

Voltage: 12 VDC
Watts: 6
Amperage: .5
Max. Pressure: 312 P.S.I.
Orifice: 1/4"
Max. Ambient Temp.: 1400 F
Max. Fluid Temp.: 770 F
Lead Termination: None
Certification: U.L. (MH8621)

Isn't the maximum fuel temperature of 77 degrees F rather low? I mean the gas
in any tank in Arizona must get a lot hotter than that on a daily basis. And
most under-car fuel tanks sitting in parking lots in the summer must be over
80 degrees. For sure, on the TR6 the valve will be under the car so will
likely get quite warm until the fuel starts flowing from the tank.

However, all the fuel valves seem to have the same limit. Am I
misunderstanding something, or is this just the wrong type of equipment?

Mark
1972 TR6

From mtgaines at presby.edu  Tue May 15 16:00:00 2012
From: mtgaines at presby.edu (Tim Gaines)
Date: Tue, 15 May 2012 18:00:00 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 tranny sound?
Message-ID: <auto-000092930076@mail.presby.edu>

I thought I was leaving for a nice drive of about 150 miles in the 
TR6 a few days ago, but I didn't get farther than the gas station 
before some nasty noises turned me right around.  When taking off 
from a stop I get a crunching sound plus a "zzzup" thrown in once in 
a while.  My first thought was that I had a stone or two from my 
newly graveled driveway sitting on top of the drive shaft.  But I 
also thought it could be the tranny or the differential, and I didn't 
want to take any chances out on the road.  I got home okay.  In fact, 
the car ran smoothly once up to speed.  It only made the sounds at 
takeoff.  I got it up on jackstands and couldn't find any evidence of 
stones or loose flange bolts at either end of the drive shaft or at 
the rear axles.  I also couldn't reproduce the sounds with the wheels 
off the ground, either with the rear  wheels under power or by 
turning the front ones by hand.  I also couldn't feel or hear 
anything when I turned the rear wheels by hand or the drive shaft 
with a wrench on the flange bolts.

When I got the car on the ground and found that it still made the 
sounds (no lucky fix!), I started thinking it might be a disc brake 
pad issue.  It seemed like the sounds were coming from the 
front.  Today I replaced the pads and the nasty looking anti squeal 
shims.  In the process I rotated the rotors with and without pads in 
place and got no noises.  However, I did get something like the 
"zzzup" noise when I deflected the rotor guard into the rotor while 
turning it.  After everything was back together I made sure that the 
guard wasn't touching the rotor before getting the car back on the 
ground.  Just took a drive up the road, and nothing has changed; 
crunchy noises and "zzzups" at takeoff, forward and backward, but 
fine after it's up to speed.  I think I can feel a little something 
through the shifter when the noises occur, but I'm not really 
positive about that.  I also think that the noises stop when I 
disengage the clutch, but by the time I reach speed enough for that, 
the noises are usually gone anyway.

So folks, what am I up against?  Does a transmission make those kinds 
of noises when it's failing?  Is there something else I should be 
looking at?  Thanks for any help you can offer.

Tim
1974 TR6
1980 Spitfire

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Tue May 15 16:53:44 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Tue, 15 May 2012 15:53:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] who often should I change oil in a a less frequently used
 LBC
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaG83QYm0EbNU6+9JVZP253r3g3iLW_=DCimyw9H19Uy6Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaG83QYm0EbNU6+9JVZP253r3g3iLW_=DCimyw9H19Uy6Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1337122424.15677.YahooMailNeo@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

i think your about 2 years past due
Frank

From: Sujit Roy <triumphstag at gmail.com>
To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2012 1:12 PM
Subject: [TR] who often should I change oil in a a less frequently used LBC

Last check. Last oil change was 3 years ago, but only driven about 800
miles. Each trip very short runs.

Sujit
'71 Stag

-- 
Sujit Roy, Realtor
Keller Williams Realty, Cupertino, CA
(408) 839-8359
roysrealty.com

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com

From willgray at vaxxine.com  Tue May 15 17:21:22 2012
From: willgray at vaxxine.com (David Willett)
Date: Tue, 15 May 2012 19:21:22 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A Turn Signals: The Saga Continues
Message-ID: <E2E753AC-8A33-4AE9-85DB-25A2471780A9@vaxxine.com>

Thank you to everybody for your advice regarding getting access to and
disassembling the steering wheel control head. Everything has gone fine so far
and I have the thing in pieces, having taken photographs en route, However I
need some advice about the operation of the mechanism which is supposed to
cancel the turn signal once the steering wheel has been returned to the
straight ahead position. I find it difficult to discern the function of the
various components and why they didn't work.
Dave
David Willett
willgray at vaxxine.com
Ph: 905 468 0608

From paulwillou at socal.rr.com  Tue May 15 17:41:11 2012
From: paulwillou at socal.rr.com (Paul Willoughby)
Date: Tue, 15 May 2012 16:41:11 -0700
Subject: [TR] who often should I change oil in a a less frequently used
 LBC
References: <CANLCLaG83QYm0EbNU6+9JVZP253r3g3iLW_=DCimyw9H19Uy6Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <01CE068363054B59A1216C37901917B9@paulal73q2sjay>

I'm also interested in the list's collective wisdom on this topic.  I've got 
4 old cars that never get driven.  Last time I changed the TR4 oil was in 
March 2009.  It's still a nice light brown color with about 500 miles on it.

paulw
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sujit Roy" <triumphstag at gmail.com>
To: "Triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2012 1:12 PM
Subject: [TR] who often should I change oil in a a less frequently used LBC


Last check. Last oil change was 3 years ago, but only driven about 800
miles. Each trip very short runs.

Sujit
'71 Stag

-- 
Sujit Roy, Realtor
Keller Williams Realty, Cupertino, CA
(408) 839-8359
roysrealty.com

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/paulwillou at socal.rr.com

From mhooper at indiefilmnet.com  Tue May 15 17:59:00 2012
From: mhooper at indiefilmnet.com (Mark Hooper)
Date: Tue, 15 May 2012 19:59:00 -0400
Subject: [TR] Fuel Shutoff valve question
In-Reply-To: <CAMc4sNCU2dKFzPSLEVygvKfThBD-01Mwco=05yftGvoyYx+GRw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <bb596dda.1cd32f6.6c17c79.62c4@indiefilmnet.com>

Hi Chuck:

I stared at your e-mail for a moment, thinking I must be a complete idiot.
However, I see the problem; it seems that the little o for degrees in my
note turned into a 0 in the triumph e-mail. I.e. the web site says Max.
Ambient Temp.: 140 (little o) degrees F, not 1400 degrees. That would be a
little hot

I checked the web site again and it definitely shows 77 degrees F, not 770 as
somehow came through. I think the Triumph email list just eliminated the
formatting and revealed that the site is just using a 0 with superscript
turned on.

Thanks for noticing though.

Cheers,

Mark






From: Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley [mailto:triosan at gmail.com]
Sent: May 15, 2012 7:46 PM
To: mhooper at indiefilmnet.com
Subject: Re: [TR] Fuel Shutoff valve question

your stats say 770 degrees, not 77!


On Tue, May 15, 2012 at 1:39 PM, Mark Hooper <mhooper at indiefilmnet.com>
wrote:
I'm planning to put a solenoid fuel shut-off valve in my TR6's fuel line. I
keep getting fuel draining into the sump, despite having a filter in the fuel
line and 3 recently rebuilt carbs.

I found an interesting site: www.altfuel.com which has quite a selection of
valves. I have a question about the specs which are as follows:

Part number 7008A-12V-O is a pilot operated 12 volt electrically operated
fuel
shut off. This is a U.L. listed valve for LPG and gasoline. The 7008 series
valves are 1800 inlet to outlet with 1/4 NPT threads. This valve is assembled
and 100% tested at Alternative Fuel Systems, Inc. It has been the standard in
LPG fuel systems for over 30 years for its reliability and durability

Voltage: 12 VDC
Watts: 6
Amperage: .5
Max. Pressure: 312 P.S.I.
Orifice: 1/4"
Max. Ambient Temp.: 140 F
Max. Fluid Temp.: 77 F              (--- fixed text)
Lead Termination: None
Certification: U.L. (MH8621)

Isn't the maximum fuel temperature of 77 degrees F rather low? I mean the gas
in any tank in Arizona must get a lot hotter than that on a daily basis. And
most under-car fuel tanks sitting in parking lots in the summer must be over
80 degrees. For sure, on the TR6 the valve will be under the car so will
likely get quite warm until the fuel starts flowing from the tank.

However, all the fuel valves seem to have the same limit. Am I
misunderstanding something, or is this just the wrong type of equipment?

Mark
1972 TR6

From wbeech at flash.net  Tue May 15 18:02:03 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Tue, 15 May 2012 19:02:03 -0500
Subject: [TR] who often should I change oil in a a less frequently used
 LBC
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaG83QYm0EbNU6+9JVZP253r3g3iLW_=DCimyw9H19Uy6Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaG83QYm0EbNU6+9JVZP253r3g3iLW_=DCimyw9H19Uy6Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <9B4F0609EFBF4B96ABAABFE95B825005@bboffice>

Sujit,
Get that Stag out on the road and let run, really.  Not good to just make
short trips where you never get the car, any car, up to full operating temps
for an extended period.  Dampness collects via condensation in both the
block and the exhaust system that can cause premature failures.  Getting
everything good an hot for a while, even 20-30 minutes at full operating
temp can help to keep this burned off.

Oil breaks down via contamination that comes from use, I have always felt
that if I run the car up the road, maybe to a cafi 30 miles away for coffee
or a sandwich I am doing it justice.  I change my newer Detroitmobiles on
the 5k, but the LBC gets it every 3k, even if it takes two years to get
there.  I know there will be those on the list that will say annually,
regardless of mileage, but I have not signed up for the logic that dictates
it.

Meanwhile, go for a nice long drive this weekend and at least once a month.

The opinions expressed are my own,
Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS30766L "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Hello, my name is Bill and I own an old British car.  Now...What are the
next 11 steps?"


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Sujit Roy
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2012 3:13 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] who often should I change oil in a a less frequently used LBC

Last check. Last oil change was 3 years ago, but only driven about 800
miles. Each trip very short runs.

Sujit
'71 Stag

--
Sujit Roy, Realtor
Keller Williams Realty, Cupertino, CA
(408) 839-8359
roysrealty.com

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From kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Tue May 15 18:40:11 2012
From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer)
Date: Tue, 15 May 2012 17:40:11 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 tranny sound?
In-Reply-To: <auto-000092930076@mail.presby.edu>
References: <auto-000092930076@mail.presby.edu>
Message-ID: <002c01cd32fc$74437de0$5cca79a0$@net>

Tim, Do you happen to have wire wheels?
Bob

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tim Gaines
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2012 3:00 PM
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR6 tranny sound?

I thought I was leaving for a nice drive of about 150 miles in the
TR6 a few days ago, but I didn't get farther than the gas station before
some nasty noises turned me right around.  When taking off from a stop I get
a crunching sound plus a "zzzup" thrown in once in a while.  My first
thought was that I had a stone or two from my newly graveled driveway
sitting on top of the drive shaft.  But I also thought it could be the
tranny or the differential, and I didn't want to take any chances out on the
road.  I got home okay.  In fact, the car ran smoothly once up to speed.  It
only made the sounds at takeoff.  I got it up on jackstands and couldn't
find any evidence of stones or loose flange bolts at either end of the drive
shaft or at the rear axles.  I also couldn't reproduce the sounds with the
wheels off the ground, either with the rear  wheels under power or by
turning the front ones by hand.  I also couldn't feel or hear anything when
I turned the rear wheels by hand or the drive shaft with a wrench on the
flange bolts.

When I got the car on the ground and found that it still made the sounds (no
lucky fix!), I started thinking it might be a disc brake pad issue.  It
seemed like the sounds were coming from the front.  Today I replaced the
pads and the nasty looking anti squeal shims.  In the process I rotated the
rotors with and without pads in place and got no noises.  However, I did get
something like the "zzzup" noise when I deflected the rotor guard into the
rotor while turning it.  After everything was back together I made sure that
the guard wasn't touching the rotor before getting the car back on the
ground.  Just took a drive up the road, and nothing has changed; crunchy
noises and "zzzups" at takeoff, forward and backward, but fine after it's up
to speed.  I think I can feel a little something through the shifter when
the noises occur, but I'm not really positive about that.  I also think that
the noises stop when I disengage the clutch, but by the time I reach speed
enough for that, the noises are usually gone anyway.

So folks, what am I up against?  Does a transmission make those kinds of
noises when it's failing?  Is there something else I should be looking at?
Thanks for any help you can offer.

Tim
1974 TR6
1980 Spitfire 

From aljlthomson at charter.net  Tue May 15 18:54:40 2012
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson)
Date: Tue, 15 May 2012 20:54:40 -0400
Subject: [TR] who often should I change oil in a a less frequently used
 LBC
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaG83QYm0EbNU6+9JVZP253r3g3iLW_=DCimyw9H19Uy6Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaG83QYm0EbNU6+9JVZP253r3g3iLW_=DCimyw9H19Uy6Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <001a01cd32fe$797316c0$6c594440$@charter.net>

Change it! Short trips are the worst. Any combustion produces water vapor
which will then condense. The result is bad oil contamination. Figure on an
oil/filter change once per year regardless of miles. The cost is less than
two cases of cheap beer. Engines in the cold climates have an even more
difficult life.

Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Sujit Roy
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2012 4:13 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] who often should I change oil in a a less frequently used LBC

Last check. Last oil change was 3 years ago, but only driven about 800
miles. Each trip very short runs.

Sujit
'71 Stag

--
Sujit Roy, Realtor
Keller Williams Realty, Cupertino, CA
(408) 839-8359
roysrealty.com

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue May 15 19:00:32 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 15 May 2012 18:00:32 -0700
Subject: [TR] who often should I change oil in a a less frequently used
 LBC
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaG83QYm0EbNU6+9JVZP253r3g3iLW_=DCimyw9H19Uy6Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaG83QYm0EbNU6+9JVZP253r3g3iLW_=DCimyw9H19Uy6Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <03d701cd32ff$4c5e7340$e51b59c0$@rr.com>

My opinion, change it every year if the engine has even been started (0
miles).

Whenever the engine is started, some of the combustion gases leak past the
rings, carrying along water and the makings for "acid rain".  If the engine
is driven enough to get the oil good and hot, then it boils off the water
and acid.  Otherwise, the additives in the oil must deal with it.  The
additives don't last forever.

I have seen several engines badly gunked up by taking only short trips, and
only changing the oil every 3000 miles.  The mess inside had to be seen to
be believed!

-- Randall 

From wbeech at flash.net  Tue May 15 19:02:04 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Tue, 15 May 2012 20:02:04 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 tranny sound?
In-Reply-To: <auto-000092930076@mail.presby.edu>
References: <auto-000092930076@mail.presby.edu>
Message-ID: <A29E82F3-AA95-408E-B3CC-34996C660AF4@flash.net>

How's the clutch feel?  Maybe some contamination?

Sent from mobile Bill

On May 15, 2012, at 5:00 PM, Tim Gaines <mtgaines at presby.edu> wrote:

> I thought I was leaving for a nice drive of about 150 miles in the TR6 a few
days ago, but I didn't get farther than the gas station before some nasty
noises turned me right around.  When taking off from a stop I get a crunching
sound plus a "zzzup" thrown in once in a while.  My first thought was that I
had a stone or two from my newly graveled driveway sitting on top of the drive
shaft.  But I also thought it could be the tranny or the differential, and I
didn't want to take any chances out on the road.  I got home okay.  In fact,
the car ran smoothly once up to speed.  It only made the sounds at takeoff.  I
got it up on jackstands and couldn't find any evidence of stones or loose
flange bolts at either end of the drive shaft or at the rear axles.  I also
couldn't reproduce the sounds with the wheels off the ground, either with the
rear  wheels under power or by turning the front ones by hand.  I also
couldn't feel or hear anything when I turned the rear wheels by hand or the
drive shaft with a wrench on the flange bolts.
>
> When I got the car on the ground and found that it still made the sounds (no
lucky fix!), I started thinking it might be a disc brake pad issue.  It seemed
like the sounds were coming from the front.  Today I replaced the pads and the
nasty looking anti squeal shims.  In the process I rotated the rotors with and
without pads in place and got no noises.  However, I did get something like
the "zzzup" noise when I deflected the rotor guard into the rotor while
turning it.  After everything was back together I made sure that the guard
wasn't touching the rotor before getting the car back on the ground.  Just
took a drive up the road, and nothing has changed; crunchy noises and "zzzups"
at takeoff, forward and backward, but fine after it's up to speed.  I think I
can feel a little something through the shifter when the noises occur, but I'm
not really positive about that.  I also think that the noises stop when I
disengage the clutch, but by the time I reach speed enough for that, the
noises are usually gone anyway.
>
> So folks, what am I up against?  Does a transmission make those kinds of
noises when it's failing?  Is there something else I should be looking at?
Thanks for any help you can offer.
>
> Tim
> 1974 TR6
> 1980 Spitfire
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue May 15 19:03:01 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 15 May 2012 18:03:01 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 tranny sound?
In-Reply-To: <auto-000092930076@mail.presby.edu>
References: <auto-000092930076@mail.presby.edu>
Message-ID: <03d801cd32ff$a47dce90$ed796bb0$@rr.com>

Any chance you have wire wheels?  Your "zzzup" sounds much like the sound I
got when the splines slipped, which might only happen when leaving from a
stop.

-- Randall 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue May 15 19:14:47 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 15 May 2012 18:14:47 -0700
Subject: [TR] Fuel Shutoff valve question
In-Reply-To: <cb08bafe.1cd32da.60a630f.6d40@indiefilmnet.com>
References: <28864CA9032846B59DD7511771AB59C4@AlexPC>
	<cb08bafe.1cd32da.60a630f.6d40@indiefilmnet.com>
Message-ID: <03df01cd3301$49a5d100$dcf17300$@rr.com>

> I keep getting fuel draining into the sump, despite having a filter in
> the fuel
> line and 3 recently rebuilt carbs.

Are you sure it's coming through the carbs?  Sounds like a bad fuel pump
diaphragm to me.

> Part number 7008A-12V-O is a pilot operated

You don't want a piloted valve anyway.  They rely on the pressure of the
(fuel in this case) to operate the valve and have some minimum pressure
drop.  You need a direct acting valve.

Here's one that looks suitable, rated for 170F fuel:
http://goo.gl/4qoH8

-- Randall 

From JPayne at ThorCon.net  Tue May 15 19:46:12 2012
From: JPayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne)
Date: Wed, 16 May 2012 01:46:12 +0000
Subject: [TR] who often should I change oil in a a less frequently used
 LBC
In-Reply-To: <01CE068363054B59A1216C37901917B9@paulal73q2sjay>
References: <CANLCLaG83QYm0EbNU6+9JVZP253r3g3iLW_=DCimyw9H19Uy6Q@mail.gmail.com>
	<01CE068363054B59A1216C37901917B9@paulal73q2sjay>
Message-ID: <5891B364A7C3594B9466304B59E65B1C1A97D57A@ex1mbx02.onthenetoffice.com>

Would have thought it would have all leaked out by
now....................................


Jonas Payne
PBR
Cell:   (702) 358-5084

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Paul Willoughby
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2012 4:41 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] who often should I change oil in a a less frequently used
LBC

I'm also interested in the list's collective wisdom on this topic.  I've got
4 old cars that never get driven.  Last time I changed the TR4 oil was in
March 2009.  It's still a nice light brown color with about 500 miles on it.

paulw
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sujit Roy" <triumphstag at gmail.com>
To: "Triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2012 1:12 PM
Subject: [TR] who often should I change oil in a a less frequently used LBC


Last check. Last oil change was 3 years ago, but only driven about 800
miles. Each trip very short runs.

Sujit
'71 Stag

--
Sujit Roy, Realtor
Keller Williams Realty, Cupertino, CA
(408) 839-8359
roysrealty.com

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From spook01 at comcast.net  Tue May 15 20:12:17 2012
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Tue, 15 May 2012 21:12:17 -0500
Subject: [TR]
 =?utf-8?q?who_often_should_I_change_oil_in_a_a_less_frequent?=
 =?utf-8?q?ly_used_LBC?=
Message-ID: <mailman.3.1337134301.14507.triumphs@autox.team.net>

I usually change The Nail Bag's oil every 6-8 years.  Filter on the second or third change.
Last time, the filter came out with the oil, so it was a double.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Paul Willoughby" <paulwillou at socal.rr.com>
To: "Triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] who often should I change oil in a a less frequently used LBC
Date: Tue, May 15, 2012 18:41


I'm also interested in the list's collective wisdom on this topic.  I've got 
4 old cars that never get driven.  Last time I changed the TR4 oil was in 
March 2009.  It's still a nice light brown color with about 500 miles on it.

paulw
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sujit Roy" <triumphstag at gmail.com>
To: "Triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2012 1:12 PM
Subject: [TR] who often should I change oil in a a less frequently used LBC


Last check. Last oil change was 3 years ago, but only driven about 800
miles. Each trip very short runs.

Sujit
'71 Stag

-- 
Sujit Roy, Realtor
Keller Williams Realty, Cupertino, CA
(408) 839-8359
roysrealty.com

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue May 15 20:45:05 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 15 May 2012 19:45:05 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A Turn Signals: The Saga Continues
In-Reply-To: <E2E753AC-8A33-4AE9-85DB-25A2471780A9@vaxxine.com>
References: <E2E753AC-8A33-4AE9-85DB-25A2471780A9@vaxxine.com>
Message-ID: <000c01cd330d$e72e6020$b58b2060$@rr.com>

Ahem.  Here is a close-up of the switch mechanism.
http://goo.gl/p9Ad0

The piece sticking out at about the 11:00 position is where the turn signal
lever attaches, and it is shown in the "left turn" position.  It's not
actually in the photo, but there should be a brass piece wrapped around
underneath it, so it is making contact with the center contact (the flat
copper plate visible just to the right of the lever) and the left contact
(the dark rounded surface peeking out from under the left side).  You can
see the missing piece (and its spring) to the left in this shot
http://goo.gl/Vt79b

The center contact is connected to the flasher on the fire wall, while the
left contact connects to the left turn lamps.  So the switch is passing
current to the lamps from the flasher.  Also note the compressed spring,
between about 10:00 and 11:00.  It is trying to return the lever to center.

At about the 5:00 position, you can see the spring loaded roller that is
keeping the lever from returning.  Below it is a hinged pushrod that you can
see sticking out beyond the surface of the body.  (The pushrod is actually
installed the wrong way, operator error.  Please pretend that the slanted
part slants the other way.  Someday, maybe, I'll take another photo and
replace that one.)

Not shown is the cancellation ring, which turns with the steering wheel
(while the switch body is held stationary by the stator tube).  But
hopefully you can imagine the ramp built into the ring.  If not, the ring is
near the upper right in this shot http://goo.gl/pki3G  Hopefully if you zoom
in, you can see the ramp on the LH side as shown.

When the ramp goes by from left to right (ie when the steering wheel is
turning to the left), the pushrod bends at the hinge and does not dislodge
the roller.  But when the ramp goes by the other way (wheel turning back to
the right), the pushrod straightens out (there is a spring inside) and jams
against the ramp, which then pushes it upwards.  That dislodges the roller
from the notch, allowing the spring in the upper LH corner to push the lever
back to center.

Unfortunately it doesn't work very well without the cover piece to hold
things in place.

One critical and perhaps not obvious bit: the cancellation ring needs to be
in the correct position relative to the steering wheel, which in turn needs
to be centered when the wheels are straight ahead.  Since the steering ratio
is so high, you rarely turn the wheel through a full revolution, and the
ramp has to be positioned where it will press against the ramps with the
small amount of movement involved.  To achieve that on assembly, you first
center the steering and then turn the plate that drives the cancellation
ring to where the fingers are pointing straight down.  Insert the control
head into the wheel and then tighten all 3 grub screws firmly, without
letting anything turn before they are tight.

Also, the spigots (trunnions) that hold the lever and allow it to turn need
to be lubricated in my experience.  If the joint is too stiff, the springs
cannot return the lever to center.  In the past, I have used "dry moly" to
lubricate the switch components, but it doesn't work as well as I hoped.
This time instead, I'm using just a tiny dab of synthetic brake grease.  It
seems to be working well so far, hopefully it won't attract dirt and get
gummy over time.  I used it on the switch contacts too, although Vaseline
would work just as well there.

All clear as mud?  Feel free to ask ...

-- Randall 

From dave at ranteer.com  Tue May 15 20:48:27 2012
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Tue, 15 May 2012 21:48:27 -0500
Subject: [TR] who often should I change oil in a a less frequently used
 LBC
In-Reply-To: <9B4F0609EFBF4B96ABAABFE95B825005@bboffice>
References: <CANLCLaG83QYm0EbNU6+9JVZP253r3g3iLW_=DCimyw9H19Uy6Q@mail.gmail.com>
	<9B4F0609EFBF4B96ABAABFE95B825005@bboffice>
Message-ID: <9070CE068DCE44C38F5ACE86800A6D97@ranteer.local>

I'll disagree - moisture builds up in the oil, and the engine.

IMHO change the oil once a  year minimum.

and yes, let it run!

-----Original Message----- 
From: wbeech at flash.net
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2012 7:02 PM
To: 'Sujit Roy' ; 'Triumphs'
Subject: Re: [TR] who often should I change oil in a a less frequently used 
LBC

Sujit,
Get that Stag out on the road and let run, really.  Not good to just make
short trips where you never get the car, any car, up to full operating temps
for an extended period.  Dampness collects via condensation in both the
block and the exhaust system that can cause premature failures.  Getting
everything good an hot for a while, even 20-30 minutes at full operating
temp can help to keep this burned off.

Oil breaks down via contamination that comes from use, I have always felt
that if I run the car up the road, maybe to a cafi 30 miles away for coffee
or a sandwich I am doing it justice.  I change my newer Detroitmobiles on
the 5k, but the LBC gets it every 3k, even if it takes two years to get
there.  I know there will be those on the list that will say annually,
regardless of mileage, but I have not signed up for the logic that dictates
it.

Meanwhile, go for a nice long drive this weekend and at least once a month.

The opinions expressed are my own,
Bill 

From guy at genfiniti.com  Tue May 15 21:18:02 2012
From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins)
Date: Tue, 15 May 2012 22:18:02 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Gearshift Boots Question
Message-ID: <D2108A96-1474-4E13-ADE2-4F9438DE604F@genfiniti.com>

All,

I have a question regarding the gearshift boots for the TR4A.
There is a lower boot, and an upper boot that has a gearshift cover attached.

It seems that the lower boot's slot fits nicely into the tranny cover.
Does the upper boot go inside & up through this lower boot, or sit atop the
lower boot, held in place by the center console?

Thanks in advance.



Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph

From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com  Tue May 15 22:30:38 2012
From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad)
Date: Tue, 15 May 2012 21:30:38 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] who often should I change oil in a a less frequently used
 LBC
In-Reply-To: <001a01cd32fe$797316c0$6c594440$@charter.net>
References: <CANLCLaG83QYm0EbNU6+9JVZP253r3g3iLW_=DCimyw9H19Uy6Q@mail.gmail.com>
	<001a01cd32fe$797316c0$6c594440$@charter.net>
Message-ID: <1337142638.27957.YahooMailNeo@web120503.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

I agree 100%.  Short / infrequent use is the worst.  Change it every year.
Chad in Tulsa



________________________________
 From: Alex & Janet Thomson
<aljlthomson at charter.net>
To: 'Sujit Roy' <triumphstag at gmail.com>; 'Triumphs'
<triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2012 7:54 PM
Subject: Re:
[TR] who often should I change oil in a a less frequently used LBC
 
Change
it! Short trips are the worst. Any combustion produces water vapor
which will
then condense. The result is bad oil contamination. Figure on an
oil/filter
change once per year regardless of miles. The cost is less than
two cases of
cheap beer. Engines in the cold climates have an even more
difficult life.
Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Sujit Roy
Sent: Tuesday,
May 15, 2012 4:13 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] who often should I change oil
in a a less frequently used LBC

Last check. Last oil change was 3 years ago,
but only driven about 800
miles. Each trip very short runs.

Sujit
'71 Stag
--
Sujit Roy, Realtor
Keller Williams Realty, Cupertino, CA
(408) 839-8359
roysrealty.com

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From wbeech at flash.net  Tue May 15 22:32:25 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Tue, 15 May 2012 23:32:25 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3A Turn Signals: The Saga Continues
In-Reply-To: <E2E753AC-8A33-4AE9-85DB-25A2471780A9@vaxxine.com>
References: <E2E753AC-8A33-4AE9-85DB-25A2471780A9@vaxxine.com>
Message-ID: <9E5D6D55-DC7C-4C11-94EB-D03B18213E10@flash.net>

That are supposed to self-cancel?  I guess mine never worked then, I always
just push it over and back as I thought that was the norm in 1958 for these
cars.

Sent from mobile Bill

On May 15, 2012, at 6:21 PM, David Willett <willgray at vaxxine.com> wrote:

> Thank you to everybody for your advice regarding getting access to and
> disassembling the steering wheel control head. Everything has gone fine so
far
> and I have the thing in pieces, having taken photographs en route, However
I
> need some advice about the operation of the mechanism which is supposed to
> cancel the turn signal once the steering wheel has been returned to the
> straight ahead position. I find it difficult to discern the function of the
> various components and why they didn't work.
> Dave
> David Willett
> willgray at vaxxine.com
> Ph: 905 468 0608
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From pethier at comcast.net  Wed May 16 03:14:32 2012
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 16 May 2012 09:14:32 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Where do I get Stag seat belt inertia reels?
In-Reply-To: <664092304.453415.1337092062374.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <829898010.496344.1337159672514.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Here are some pictures of the inertia reel:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/sets/72157629752653826/

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://www.mnautox.com

----- Original Message -----
> From: pethier at comcast.net
> To: stag at digest.net
> Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2012 9:27:42 AM
> Subject: [TR] Where do I get Stag seat belt inertia reels?
> I'll tell you the story later.
> 
> Right now, I need to know where to get Stag seat belt inertia reels.
> 
> Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
> 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
> 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
> 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
> 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
> pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
> http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
> http://www.mnautox.com
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net

From greg at gelhar.com  Wed May 16 03:24:26 2012
From: greg at gelhar.com (greg at gelhar.com)
Date: Wed, 16 May 2012 05:24:26 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A Turn Signals: The Saga Continues
In-Reply-To: <E2E753AC-8A33-4AE9-85DB-25A2471780A9@vaxxine.com>
References: <E2E753AC-8A33-4AE9-85DB-25A2471780A9@vaxxine.com>
Message-ID: <8833c771bf3f0701e90f284b00396096.squirrel@email.accountsupport.com>

> I need some advice about the operation of the mechanism which is
supposed to 
> cancel the turn signal once the steering wheel has
been returned to the straight ahead position.  
> 
Dave,

Check this out

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/msword which had a name of Cancelling Action.doc]

From tr6parts at charter.net  Wed May 16 05:00:42 2012
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore)
Date: Wed, 16 May 2012 07:00:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Gearshift Boots Question
References: <D2108A96-1474-4E13-ADE2-4F9438DE604F@genfiniti.com>
Message-ID: <D9F8706246514892834F689205E99E67@Alan>

It goes inside the lower boot, just like the TR6.

Al


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "G.D. Huggins" <guy at genfiniti.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2012 11:18 PM
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Gearshift Boots Question


> All,
>
> I have a question regarding the gearshift boots for the TR4A.
> There is a lower boot, and an upper boot that has a gearshift cover 
> attached.
>
> It seems that the lower boot's slot fits nicely into the tranny cover.
> Does the upper boot go inside & up through this lower boot, or sit atop 
> the
> lower boot, held in place by the center console?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> Guy D. Huggins
> 1965 Triumph TR4A
> CTC 63569LO
>
> Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr6parts at charter.net

From mtgaines at presby.edu  Wed May 16 07:08:02 2012
From: mtgaines at presby.edu (Tim Gaines)
Date: Wed, 16 May 2012 09:08:02 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 tranny sound?
In-Reply-To: <auto-000092930076@mail.presby.edu>
References: <auto-000092930076@mail.presby.edu>
Message-ID: <auto-000092945705@mail.presby.edu>

I've had a few suggestions that I've ruled out such as wire wheel 
splines and loose wheel lugs, and a few other ideas that I'll check 
out, but I don't think I've gotten the answer to the noises yet.  I'm 
now wondering if the speedometer cable could be responsible for the 
"zzzup" sounds I am hearing.  It seems likely that it would make 
noises at takeoff but then quiet down (or maybe just get high pitched 
and less noticeable).  But I'm not sure why I wouldn't hear anything 
with the car up on jackstands and the wheels under power.

Tim


At 06:00 PM 5/15/2012, you wrote:
>I thought I was leaving for a nice drive of about 150 miles in the 
>TR6 a few days ago, but I didn't get farther than the gas station 
>before some nasty noises turned me right around.  When taking off 
>from a stop I get a crunching sound plus a "zzzup" thrown in once in 
>a while.  My first thought was that I had a stone or two from my 
>newly graveled driveway sitting on top of the drive shaft.  But I 
>also thought it could be the tranny or the differential, and I 
>didn't want to take any chances out on the road.  I got home 
>okay.  In fact, the car ran smoothly once up to speed.  It only made 
>the sounds at takeoff.  I got it up on jackstands and couldn't find 
>any evidence of stones or loose flange bolts at either end of the 
>drive shaft or at the rear axles.  I also couldn't reproduce the 
>sounds with the wheels off the ground, either with the rear  wheels 
>under power or by turning the front ones by hand.  I also couldn't 
>feel or hear anything when I turned the rear wheels by hand or the 
>drive shaft with a wrench on the flange bolts.
>
>When I got the car on the ground and found that it still made the 
>sounds (no lucky fix!), I started thinking it might be a disc brake 
>pad issue.  It seemed like the sounds were coming from the 
>front.  Today I replaced the pads and the nasty looking anti squeal 
>shims.  In the process I rotated the rotors with and without pads in 
>place and got no noises.  However, I did get something like the 
>"zzzup" noise when I deflected the rotor guard into the rotor while 
>turning it.  After everything was back together I made sure that the 
>guard wasn't touching the rotor before getting the car back on the 
>ground.  Just took a drive up the road, and nothing has changed; 
>crunchy noises and "zzzups" at takeoff, forward and backward, but 
>fine after it's up to speed.  I think I can feel a little something 
>through the shifter when the noises occur, but I'm not really 
>positive about that.  I also think that the noises stop when I 
>disengage the clutch, but by the time I reach speed enough for that, 
>the noises are usually gone anyway.
>
>So folks, what am I up against?  Does a transmission make those 
>kinds of noises when it's failing?  Is there something else I should 
>be looking at?  Thanks for any help you can offer.
>
>Tim
>1974 TR6
>1980 Spitfire
>
>** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mtgaines at mail.presby.edu

From dctr6 at optonline.net  Wed May 16 08:01:42 2012
From: dctr6 at optonline.net (Dennis Culligan)
Date: Wed, 16 May 2012 10:01:42 -0400
Subject: [TR]  TR6 tranny sound?
Message-ID: <001d01cd336c$6e2649e0$4a72dda0$@net>

Tim Gaines <mtgaines at presby.edu> wrote:

>snip 

 

>Just took a drive up the road, and nothing has changed; 

>crunchy noises and "zzzups" at takeoff, forward and backward, but 

>>fine after it's up to speed.  I think I can feel a little something 

>through the shifter when the noises occur, but I'm not really 

>positive about that.

>snip

 

Tim - 

   I'm no expert, but that sure sounds like the lay shaft in your tranny is
toast, especially 

since it happens in 1st and reverse and does not happen in the higher gears.
BTDT. YMMV.

Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U  

From wbeech at flash.net  Wed May 16 09:40:41 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Wed, 16 May 2012 10:40:41 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 tranny sound?
In-Reply-To: <auto-000092945705@mail.presby.edu>
References: <auto-000092930076@mail.presby.edu>
	<auto-000092945705@mail.presby.edu>
Message-ID: <7CDA462D19144373B773CD58F055281D@bboffice>

With it on stands, unladen, it could be that the routing is changed just
enough to eliminate the sound.  Disconnect it and give her a run up the
road.
B 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tim Gaines
Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 8:08 AM
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 tranny sound?

I've had a few suggestions that I've ruled out such as wire wheel splines
and loose wheel lugs, and a few other ideas that I'll check out, but I don't
think I've gotten the answer to the noises yet.  I'm now wondering if the
speedometer cable could be responsible for the "zzzup" sounds I am hearing.
It seems likely that it would make noises at takeoff but then quiet down (or
maybe just get high pitched and less noticeable).  But I'm not sure why I
wouldn't hear anything with the car up on jackstands and the wheels under
power.

Tim


At 06:00 PM 5/15/2012, you wrote:
>I thought I was leaving for a nice drive of about 150 miles in the
>TR6 a few days ago, but I didn't get farther than the gas station 
>before some nasty noises turned me right around.  When taking off from 
>a stop I get a crunching sound plus a "zzzup" thrown in once in a 
>while.  My first thought was that I had a stone or two from my newly 
>graveled driveway sitting on top of the drive shaft.  But I also 
>thought it could be the tranny or the differential, and I didn't want 
>to take any chances out on the road.  I got home okay.  In fact, the 
>car ran smoothly once up to speed.  It only made the sounds at takeoff.  
>I got it up on jackstands and couldn't find any evidence of stones or 
>loose flange bolts at either end of the drive shaft or at the rear 
>axles.  I also couldn't reproduce the sounds with the wheels off the 
>ground, either with the rear  wheels under power or by turning the 
>front ones by hand.  I also couldn't feel or hear anything when I 
>turned the rear wheels by hand or the drive shaft with a wrench on the 
>flange bolts.
>
>When I got the car on the ground and found that it still made the 
>sounds (no lucky fix!), I started thinking it might be a disc brake pad 
>issue.  It seemed like the sounds were coming from the front.  Today I 
>replaced the pads and the nasty looking anti squeal shims.  In the 
>process I rotated the rotors with and without pads in place and got no 
>noises.  However, I did get something like the "zzzup" noise when I 
>deflected the rotor guard into the rotor while turning it.  After 
>everything was back together I made sure that the guard wasn't touching 
>the rotor before getting the car back on the ground.  Just took a drive 
>up the road, and nothing has changed; crunchy noises and "zzzups" at 
>takeoff, forward and backward, but fine after it's up to speed.  I 
>think I can feel a little something through the shifter when the noises 
>occur, but I'm not really positive about that.  I also think that the 
>noises stop when I disengage the clutch, but by the time I reach speed 
>enough for that, the noises are usually gone anyway.
>
>So folks, what am I up against?  Does a transmission make those kinds 
>of noises when it's failing?  Is there something else I should be 
>looking at?  Thanks for any help you can offer.
>
>Tim
>1974 TR6
>1980 Spitfire
>
>** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mtgaines at mail.presby.edu

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From deruiterville at hotmail.com  Tue May 15 17:38:55 2012
From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter)
Date: Tue, 15 May 2012 18:38:55 -0500
Subject: [TR] Fuel Shutoff valve question
In-Reply-To: <cb08bafe.1cd32da.60a630f.6d40@indiefilmnet.com>
References: <28864CA9032846B59DD7511771AB59C4@AlexPC>,
	<cb08bafe.1cd32da.60a630f.6d40@indiefilmnet.com>
Message-ID: <BAY150-W20B21D2B5710065146D370B91B0@phx.gbl>

Mark-

Don't want to sway you too much if you are convinced, but you really shouldn't
need a shut off valve like that - if you are running a mechanical fuel pump,
are you sure you don't have the leak there?  That is  a common problem if the
diaphram leaks, it will go into the sump.  Not sure what else would cause it.

Randy

From rbhendricks at me.com  Wed May 16 17:10:21 2012
From: rbhendricks at me.com (Robert Hendricks)
Date: Wed, 16 May 2012 17:10:21 -0600
Subject: [TR] Spitfire tub to frame
Message-ID: <09ED4F28-E5E8-4F4E-B093-9BE32A2AF423@me.com>

Hello. Tub of my Spit is painted ready to attach to frame. Bought a bolt kit from the Roadster Factory - no instructions.  Do the alloy pads go on every attach point or just a a few?  And Where do the rubber washers go?

Bob

From dconnitt at fuse.net  Wed May 16 17:31:43 2012
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Wed, 16 May 2012 19:31:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] Non-OEM wire harnesses
Message-ID: <E4353612AEEF498E993EE4504ECF3DF2@DaveLaptop>

Hi,
I am slowly getting to the point of wiring up my TR4A IRS and was planning on
using a Advanced Autowire harness. Unfortunately for me, the cost for their
harness is now $520.00. I understand it is a good quality harness but $520.00
is a bit out of my price range.
I am asking if anyone has had any experience good or bad installing any other
non-OEM wire harness, hopefully in a TR4A.
Thanks,
Dave Connitt

From mhooper at indiefilmnet.com  Wed May 16 18:41:00 2012
From: mhooper at indiefilmnet.com (Mark Hooper)
Date: Wed, 16 May 2012 20:41:00 -0400
Subject: [TR] Fuel Shutoff valve question
In-Reply-To: <03df01cd3301$49a5d100$dcf17300$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <c7413248.1cd33c5.c0e62de.4009@indiefilmnet.com>

I think it's OK; I did a complete fuel pump rebuild a couple of years back and
there does not seem to be any trace of gas leakage under the pump.

Just some crud in the carbs from before I put in the fuel filter I guess. I'll
have to pull the bowls and see if I can clean things out. However, I still
like the idea of a shut-off which could add in a security feature.

Mark


-----Original Message-----
From: Randall [mailto:tr3driver at ca.rr.com]
Sent: May 15, 2012 9:15 PM
To: mhooper at indiefilmnet.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [***SPAM*** Score/Req: 7.0/6.0] RE: [TR] Fuel Shutoff valve question

> I keep getting fuel draining into the sump, despite having a filter in
> the fuel
> line and 3 recently rebuilt carbs.

Are you sure it's coming through the carbs?  Sounds like a bad fuel pump
diaphragm to me.

> Part number 7008A-12V-O is a pilot operated

You don't want a piloted valve anyway.  They rely on the pressure of the
(fuel in this case) to operate the valve and have some minimum pressure
drop.  You need a direct acting valve.

Here's one that looks suitable, rated for 170F fuel:
http://goo.gl/4qoH8

-- Randall

From wbeech at flash.net  Wed May 16 21:20:17 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Wed, 16 May 2012 22:20:17 -0500
Subject: [TR] Non-OEM wire harnesses
In-Reply-To: <E4353612AEEF498E993EE4504ECF3DF2@DaveLaptop>
References: <E4353612AEEF498E993EE4504ECF3DF2@DaveLaptop>
Message-ID: <104EC142563A4A25AFC1C9273EDE0734@bboffice>

Contact Debbie at Auto-Sparks in the UK, they make the harness that British
Wiring sells (at least they did four years ago).  I installed it in my TR3A,
everything matched up and Frank Fisher's oversize color wiring diagram was a
godsend.  Bought it direct, saved bucks, Bob's yer uncle.

Auto Sparks
80-88 Derby Road
Sandiacre, Nottingham  NG10 5HU

Telephone: +44 (0)115 949 7211
Email: Sales: sales at autosparks.co.uk
Customer Services: help at autosparks.co.uk

Cheers,
Bill

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Connitt
Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2012 6:32 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Non-OEM wire harnesses

Hi,
I am slowly getting to the point of wiring up my TR4A IRS and was planning
on using a Advanced Autowire harness. Unfortunately for me, the cost for
their harness is now $520.00. I understand it is a good quality harness but
$520.00 is a bit out of my price range.
I am asking if anyone has had any experience good or bad installing any
other non-OEM wire harness, hopefully in a TR4A.
Thanks,
Dave Connitt

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From tr3a.60 at gmail.com  Thu May 17 04:31:38 2012
From: tr3a.60 at gmail.com (John Wise)
Date: Thu, 17 May 2012 06:31:38 -0400
Subject: [TR] Non-OEM wire harnesses
In-Reply-To: <E4353612AEEF498E993EE4504ECF3DF2@DaveLaptop>
References: <E4353612AEEF498E993EE4504ECF3DF2@DaveLaptop>
Message-ID: <4418423F-FE3D-4E5F-A516-56A0ED68CD9C@gmail.com>

Do not remember what I paid for the Advanced Autowire I put in my TR3, but I
think the improvements & features made it worth my money & time.

John


On  16 May, 2012, at 7:31 PM, Dave Connitt wrote:

> Hi,
> I am slowly getting to the point of wiring up my TR4A IRS and was planning
on
> using a Advanced Autowire harness. Unfortunately for me, the cost for their
> harness is now $520.00. I understand it is a good quality harness but
$520.00
> is a bit out of my price range.
> I am asking if anyone has had any experience good or bad installing any
other
> non-OEM wire harness, hopefully in a TR4A.
> Thanks,
> Dave Connitt
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3a.60 at gmail.com

John A. Wise
Ormond Beach, FL

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From william.f.daehler at delphi.com  Thu May 17 06:28:00 2012
From: william.f.daehler at delphi.com (Daehler, William F)
Date: Thu, 17 May 2012 12:28:00 +0000
Subject: [TR] Oil for K & N Air Filters
Message-ID: <9E1CC0F0B106764CA9F4156E627D8B0D0A2373@017-CH1MPN1-022.017d.mgd.msft.net>

I just installed my K & N air filters on my Triumph to improve the show
quality (read as more 'shiny chrome' ).

Reading the fine print, there is a special oil requirement.  Hmmm, I already
have special oil for my SU dampers, special oil for my Armstrong rear shocks,
20 W 50 ZDDP racing oil for the engine, transmission oil and 90 W hypoid oil
for the differential.  Also I have special oil for my air compressor and a
special detergent free oil for my air tools.  I love this hobby, but not sure
if I am a vintage car enthusiast or an oil collector.

Any chance that this K & N oil is something very ordinary, but just rebottled
and then over-priced accordingly?


Will Daehler
'63 TR4 Powder Blue


*****************************************************************************
*********** Note: If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient,
or an employee or agent responsible for delivering this message to the
intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination,
distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you
have received this communication in error, please notify us immediately by
replying to the message and deleting it from your computer. Thank you.
*****************************************************************************
***********

From deruiterville at hotmail.com  Thu May 17 07:48:40 2012
From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter)
Date: Thu, 17 May 2012 08:48:40 -0500
Subject: [TR] Non-OEM wire harnesses
In-Reply-To: <E4353612AEEF498E993EE4504ECF3DF2@DaveLaptop>
References: <E4353612AEEF498E993EE4504ECF3DF2@DaveLaptop>
Message-ID: <BAY150-W183042451E9B97F852CD53B9190@phx.gbl>

I've not done this personally, but Auto-sparks do custom work as well, so if
you wanted to add extra wiring to the loom for an alternator, relays etc, as
long as you plan it out they can accomodate you.  Nothing against Advanced
Autowire, but I find it hard to justify over $500 when a stock setup can be
had in the UK for about $200.


> From: dconnitt at fuse.net
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Date: Wed, 16 May 2012 19:31:43 -0400
> Subject: [TR] Non-OEM wire harnesses
>
> Hi,
> I am slowly getting to the point of wiring up my TR4A IRS and was planning
on
> using a Advanced Autowire harness. Unfortunately for me, the cost for their
> harness is now $520.00. I understand it is a good quality harness but
$520.00
> is a bit out of my price range.
> I am asking if anyone has had any experience good or bad installing any
other
> non-OEM wire harness, hopefully in a TR4A.
> Thanks,
> Dave Connitt
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/deruiterville at hotmail.com

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu May 17 08:44:16 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 17 May 2012 07:44:16 -0700
Subject: [TR] Non-OEM wire harnesses
In-Reply-To: <E4353612AEEF498E993EE4504ECF3DF2@DaveLaptop>
References: <E4353612AEEF498E993EE4504ECF3DF2@DaveLaptop>
Message-ID: <0ed501cd343b$896bca70$0601a8c0@randall>

> I am asking if anyone has had any experience good or bad 
> installing any other
> non-OEM wire harness, hopefully in a TR4A.

Just curious, Dave, why does it have to be an aftermarket harness?

I find that the original harness meets perhaps 3/4 of my needs; and it's not
difficult to fabricate your own for whatever modifications _you_ want.  For
example, here is a modification that the AA harness does not support:
http://goo.gl/xVR2q

(My TR3 is modified so the corner lights in the rear act as both brake
lights and turn signals.  No changes to the original harness.)

-- Randall  

From guy at genfiniti.com  Thu May 17 10:04:26 2012
From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins)
Date: Thu, 17 May 2012 11:04:26 -0500
Subject: [TR] Non-OEM wire harnesses
In-Reply-To: <4418423F-FE3D-4E5F-A516-56A0ED68CD9C@gmail.com>
References: <E4353612AEEF498E993EE4504ECF3DF2@DaveLaptop>
	<4418423F-FE3D-4E5F-A516-56A0ED68CD9C@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <69EE7122-CB3F-461F-A0F7-1C1B9FE02400@genfiniti.com>

Dave,

I purchased the kit years ago, and installed it last summer.
The kit is very impressive, and it might be worth it.

In terms of simple economics, I would ask what your time is worth.
Think of the time you might spend troubleshooting future electric/wiring
issues and ask which is less expensive; that time, or $520.

I'd be happy to share experiences, info, whatever.
Best of luck!


On May 17, 2012, at 5:31 AM, John Wise wrote:

> Do not remember what I paid for the Advanced Autowire I put in my TR3, but
I
> think the improvements & features made it worth my money & time.
>
> John
>
>
> On  16 May, 2012, at 7:31 PM, Dave Connitt wrote:
>
>> Hi,
>> I am slowly getting to the point of wiring up my TR4A IRS and was planning
> on
>> using a Advanced Autowire harness. Unfortunately for me, the cost for
their
>> harness is now $520.00. I understand it is a good quality harness but
> $520.00
>> is a bit out of my price range.
>> I am asking if anyone has had any experience good or bad installing any
> other
>> non-OEM wire harness, hopefully in a TR4A.
>> Thanks,
>> Dave Connitt
>>
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3a.60 at gmail.com
>
> John A. Wise
> Ormond Beach, FL
>
> 1960 Triumph TR3A
> Commission No: TS80422L
> http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
> http://www.triumphowners.com/876
>
> 1977 Porsche 911S
> http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/guy at genfiniti.com

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Thu May 17 10:19:13 2012
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Thu, 17 May 2012 12:19:13 -0400
Subject: [TR] Oil for K & N Air Filters
In-Reply-To: <9E1CC0F0B106764CA9F4156E627D8B0D0A2373@017-CH1MPN1-022.017d.mgd.msft.net>
References: <9E1CC0F0B106764CA9F4156E627D8B0D0A2373@017-CH1MPN1-022.017d.mgd.msft.net>
Message-ID: <D4EB1D3BBD684260BEFFCE036E71C120@DCH6RFC1>

Not sure what they take, but I know they come oiled, so you can put it on
your "I'll worry about it next year" list !

But I'd be interested in seeing what people say, as I too have just
installed them on a car.

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Daehler, William F
Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2012 8:28 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Oil for K & N Air Filters

I just installed my K & N air filters on my Triumph to improve the show
quality (read as more 'shiny chrome' ).

Reading the fine print, there is a special oil requirement.  Hmmm, I already
have special oil for my SU dampers, special oil for my Armstrong rear
shocks,
20 W 50 ZDDP racing oil for the engine, transmission oil and 90 W hypoid oil
for the differential.  Also I have special oil for my air compressor and a
special detergent free oil for my air tools.  I love this hobby, but not
sure
if I am a vintage car enthusiast or an oil collector.

Any chance that this K & N oil is something very ordinary, but just
rebottled
and then over-priced accordingly?


Will Daehler
'63 TR4 Powder Blue


****************************************************************************
*
*********** Note: If the reader of this message is not the intended
recipient,
or an employee or agent responsible for delivering this message to the
intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination,
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From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Thu May 17 10:36:23 2012
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Thu, 17 May 2012 09:36:23 -0700
Subject: [TR] Oil for K & N Air Filters
In-Reply-To: <9E1CC0F0B106764CA9F4156E627D8B0D0A2373@017-CH1MPN1-022.017d.mgd.msft.net>
References: <9E1CC0F0B106764CA9F4156E627D8B0D0A2373@017-CH1MPN1-022.017d.mgd.msft.net>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bFjpDtW4MBPG-k9FmHqj7WJ9Wmb8XRq7NgFSU1bP6NmbA@mail.gmail.com>

What I recently got (arrived yesterday)...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/160798963390?item=160798963390&viewitem=&vxp=mtr

Seemed to be the best deal all-around.  No idea if there is something
already on the shelf that I could have used.

Geo

On Thu, May 17, 2012 at 5:28 AM, Daehler, William F <
william.f.daehler at delphi.com> wrote:

> I just installed my K & N air filters on my Triumph to improve the show
> quality (read as more 'shiny chrome' ).
>
> Reading the fine print, there is a special oil requirement.  Hmmm, I
> already
> have special oil for my SU dampers, special oil for my Armstrong rear
> shocks,
> 20 W 50 ZDDP racing oil for the engine, transmission oil and 90 W hypoid
> oil
> for the differential.  Also I have special oil for my air compressor and a
> special detergent free oil for my air tools.  I love this hobby, but not
> sure
> if I am a vintage car enthusiast or an oil collector.
>
> Any chance that this K & N oil is something very ordinary, but just
> rebottled
> and then over-priced accordingly?
>
>
> Will Daehler
> '63 TR4 Powder Blue
>
>
>
> *****************************************************************************
> *********** Note: If the reader of this message is not the intended
> recipient,
> or an employee or agent responsible for delivering this message to the
> intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination,
> distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If
> you
> have received this communication in error, please notify us immediately by
> replying to the message and deleting it from your computer. Thank you.
>
> *****************************************************************************
> ***********
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From thenicholls at verizon.net  Thu May 17 10:49:35 2012
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Thu, 17 May 2012 11:49:35 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] Oil for K & N Air Filters
Message-ID: <21894907.652499.1337273375466.JavaMail.root@vms170015>

 Will, can't answer that question but I can tell you that the money you save from not replacing paper filters on a regular basis will more than offset the price of their oil and cleaner.

I have used my two cans for several years at this point, and they both are still have full.  It takes very little cleaner and oil to get them ready to go.

Just one man's opinion.

Craig 
1972 Triumph TR6
 
 
On 05/17/12, Daehler, William F<william.f.daehler at delphi.com> wrote:
 
I just installed my K & N air filters on my Triumph to improve the show
quality (read as more 'shiny chrome' ).

Reading the fine print, there is a special oil requirement. Hmmm, I already
have special oil for my SU dampers, special oil for my Armstrong rear shocks,
20 W 50 ZDDP racing oil for the engine, transmission oil and 90 W hypoid oil
for the differential. Also I have special oil for my air compressor and a
special detergent free oil for my air tools. I love this hobby, but not sure
if I am a vintage car enthusiast or an oil collector.

Any chance that this K & N oil is something very ordinary, but just rebottled
and then over-priced accordingly?


Will Daehler
'63 TR4 Powder Blue


*****************************************************************************
*********** Note: If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient,
or an employee or agent responsible for delivering this message to the
intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination,
distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you
have received this communication in error, please notify us immediately by
replying to the message and deleting it from your computer. Thank you.
*****************************************************************************
***********

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Thu May 17 11:58:32 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Thu, 17 May 2012 10:58:32 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Non-OEM wire harnesses
In-Reply-To: <BAY150-W183042451E9B97F852CD53B9190@phx.gbl>
References: <E4353612AEEF498E993EE4504ECF3DF2@DaveLaptop>
	<BAY150-W183042451E9B97F852CD53B9190@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <1337277512.67766.YahooMailNeo@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

i did not know of auto-sparks when i bought my harness from British wire.
i
knew i was going to be using an electric fan so i had them run an additional
wire inside the harness from the fuse box to the front of drivers side fender.
i was extremely happy with what i got and the price was right too.
in
comparison to my buddy who bought from one of the 3, who could still not get
it right for his car after 2 returns.
 
Frank Fisher

From: Randy and Valerie
DeRuiter <deruiterville at hotmail.com>
To: dconnitt at fuse.net; Triumph List
<triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2012 6:48 AM
Subject: Re:
[TR] Non-OEM wire harnesses

I've not done this personally, but Auto-sparks do
custom work as well, so if
you wanted to add extra wiring to the loom for an
alternator, relays etc, as
long as you plan it out they can accomodate you. 
Nothing against Advanced
Autowire, but I find it hard to justify over $500
when a stock setup can be
had in the UK for about $200.


> From:
dconnitt at fuse.net
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Date: Wed, 16 May 2012
19:31:43 -0400
> Subject: [TR] Non-OEM wire harnesses
>
> Hi,
> I am slowly
getting to the point of wiring up my TR4A IRS and was planning
on
> using a
Advanced Autowire harness. Unfortunately for me, the cost for their
> harness
is now $520.00. I understand it is a good quality harness but
$520.00
> is a
bit out of my price range.
> I am asking if anyone has had any experience good
or bad installing any
other
> non-OEM wire harness, hopefully in a TR4A.
>
Thanks,
> Dave Connitt
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/deruiterville at hotmail.com

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From dave at ranteer.com  Thu May 17 12:35:22 2012
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Thu, 17 May 2012 13:35:22 -0500
Subject: [TR] Oil for K & N Air Filters
In-Reply-To: <9E1CC0F0B106764CA9F4156E627D8B0D0A2373@017-CH1MPN1-022.017d.mgd.msft.net>
References: <9E1CC0F0B106764CA9F4156E627D8B0D0A2373@017-CH1MPN1-022.017d.mgd.msft.net>
Message-ID: <B4495D4578A34343A3831B6BE6CC79F7@ranteer.local>

if I'm not mistaken, that "special oil" won't be needed for 50 k miles.  I 
didn't worry about it!

-----Original Message----- 
From: Daehler, William F
Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2012 7:28 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Oil for K & N Air Filters

I just installed my K & N air filters on my Triumph to improve the show
quality (read as more 'shiny chrome' ).

Reading the fine print, there is a special oil requirement.  Hmmm, I already
have special oil for my SU dampers, special oil for my Armstrong rear 
shocks,
20 W 50 ZDDP racing oil for the engine, transmission oil and 90 W hypoid oil
for the differential.  Also I have special oil for my air compressor and a
special detergent free oil for my air tools.  I love this hobby, but not 
sure
if I am a vintage car enthusiast or an oil collector.

Any chance that this K & N oil is something very ordinary, but just 
rebottled
and then over-priced accordingly?

From terryrs at comcast.net  Thu May 17 15:44:55 2012
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 17 May 2012 21:44:55 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Paper Air Filters
In-Reply-To: <21894907.652499.1337273375466.JavaMail.root@vms170015>
Message-ID: <435900281.566069.1337291095352.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Hello, everyone.  Some time ago, I replaced the old metal strand/oil impregnated air filters on my '59 TR3A with paper filters.  Can't remember the brand I bought, but they were round with a flat shiny metal (not chrome) front and back plate.  Thing is, they didn't fit well, bumped into the fuel lines.

I'm not looking for expensive, just a quality paper filter.  

Recommendations?

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

From dctr6 at optonline.net  Thu May 17 16:04:50 2012
From: dctr6 at optonline.net (Dennis Culligan)
Date: Thu, 17 May 2012 18:04:50 -0400
Subject: [TR] K & N air filters
Message-ID: <002f01cd3479$14fa5650$3eef02f0$@net>

Re:  K & N air filters:

The cleaner stuff is very similar to Formula 409.

My local FLAPS sold me both the cleaner and the oil for $10.95.

No new K & N air filter I have ever seen is pre-oiled. The oil is red so you
can tell if you've 

completely covered the entire surface area.

YMMV.

Dennis Culligan, Highland NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U    

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Thu May 17 16:30:29 2012
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Thu, 17 May 2012 15:30:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] winshield "tape"
Message-ID: <1337293829.78155.YahooMailNeo@web65514.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

Someone on the list several days ago mentioned a 3M tape that worked for him
on installing a tr-3 windshield.  He called it...............3M EPR Tape. 
I've asked for it at the local NAPA store and they didn't know what I was
talking about.  I also got on the 3M web site and found various tapes but
nothing specifically described as EPR.  Just wondering if there was another
part number to go by?
I'm working with the material I got from TRF for the
windshield but so far am scared to death I'll break the glass with the present
stuff.  Just seems it'll take way to much force to get the windshield in the
frame.  

thanks!

gary n.

From wbeech at flash.net  Thu May 17 20:33:37 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Thu, 17 May 2012 21:33:37 -0500
Subject: [TR] Non-OEM wire harnesses
In-Reply-To: <1337277512.67766.YahooMailNeo@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <E4353612AEEF498E993EE4504ECF3DF2@DaveLaptop><BAY150-W183042451E9B97F852CD53B9190@phx.gbl>
	<1337277512.67766.YahooMailNeo@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4B60FCC4CE4A4C9F9CC17F11D839A91E@bboffice>

British Wiring buys their harnesses from Auto-Sparks, I was very pleased
with the one for my TR3A, along with Frank's big diagram.
B 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Fisher
Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2012 12:59 PM
To: Randy and Valerie DeRuiter; dconnitt at fuse.net; Triumph List
Subject: Re: [TR] Non-OEM wire harnesses

i did not know of auto-sparks when i bought my harness from British wire.
i
knew i was going to be using an electric fan so i had them run an additional
wire inside the harness from the fuse box to the front of drivers side
fender.
i was extremely happy with what i got and the price was right too.
in
comparison to my buddy who bought from one of the 3, who could still not get
it right for his car after 2 returns.
 
Frank Fisher

From: Randy and Valerie
DeRuiter <deruiterville at hotmail.com>
To: dconnitt at fuse.net; Triumph List
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2012 6:48 AM
Subject: Re:
[TR] Non-OEM wire harnesses

I've not done this personally, but Auto-sparks do custom work as well, so if
you wanted to add extra wiring to the loom for an alternator, relays etc, as
long as you plan it out they can accomodate you. 
Nothing against Advanced
Autowire, but I find it hard to justify over $500 when a stock setup can be
had in the UK for about $200.


> From:
dconnitt at fuse.net
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Date: Wed, 16 May 2012
19:31:43 -0400
> Subject: [TR] Non-OEM wire harnesses
>
> Hi,
> I am slowly
getting to the point of wiring up my TR4A IRS and was planning on
> using a
Advanced Autowire harness. Unfortunately for me, the cost for their
> harness
is now $520.00. I understand it is a good quality harness but $520.00
> is a
bit out of my price range.
> I am asking if anyone has had any experience good
or bad installing any
other
> non-OEM wire harness, hopefully in a TR4A.
>
Thanks,
> Dave Connitt
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/deruiterville at hotmail.com

**
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From spook01 at comcast.net  Thu May 17 21:14:49 2012
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Thu, 17 May 2012 22:14:49 -0500
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?K_=26_N_air_filters?=
Message-ID: <mailman.4.1337310853.14507.triumphs@autox.team.net>

Huh...every k&n I ever bought had the oil already applied to the filter.  I don't think they sell them dry.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Dennis Culligan" <dctr6 at optonline.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] K & N air filters
Date: Thu, May 17, 2012 17:04


Re:  K & N air filters:

The cleaner stuff is very similar to Formula 409.

My local FLAPS sold me both the cleaner and the oil for $10.95.

No new K & N air filter I have ever seen is pre-oiled. The oil is red so you
can tell if you've 

completely covered the entire surface area.

YMMV.

Dennis Culligan, Highland NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U    

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu May 17 22:48:55 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 17 May 2012 21:48:55 -0700
Subject: [TR] Paper Air Filters
In-Reply-To: <435900281.566069.1337291095352.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <21894907.652499.1337273375466.JavaMail.root@vms170015>
	<435900281.566069.1337291095352.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <0fb701cd34b1$883c2070$0601a8c0@randall>

> Can't remember the brand I bought, but they were 
> round with a flat shiny metal (not chrome) front and back 
> plate.  Thing is, they didn't fit well, bumped into the fuel lines.

I think the round ones are NLA.  But the oval ones from a TR4A fit about as
well and are readily available from the usual suspects.  TRF has a 4-pack of
them under the P/N LUF8277/4 for $34

-- Randall  

From tr6parts at charter.net  Fri May 18 05:18:06 2012
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore)
Date: Fri, 18 May 2012 07:18:06 -0400
Subject: [TR] K & N air filters
References: <20120518060914.6F9CD2D06EB@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <127A72C3836C491EA8F12470317F8F2C@Alan>

I haven't seen them pre oiled either.

Al


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <spook01 at comcast.net>
To: "Dennis Culligan" <dctr6 at optonline.net>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2012 11:14 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] K & N air filters


> Huh...every k&n I ever bought had the oil already applied to the filter. 
> I don't think they sell them dry.
>
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone
>
> ----- Reply message -----
> From: "Dennis Culligan" <dctr6 at optonline.net>
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [TR] K & N air filters
> Date: Thu, May 17, 2012 17:04
>
>
> Re:  K & N air filters:
>
> The cleaner stuff is very similar to Formula 409.
>
> My local FLAPS sold me both the cleaner and the oil for $10.95.
>
> No new K & N air filter I have ever seen is pre-oiled. The oil is red so 
> you
> can tell if you've
>
> completely covered the entire surface area.
>
> YMMV.
>
> Dennis Culligan, Highland NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Fri May 18 05:33:05 2012
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Fri, 18 May 2012 04:33:05 -0700
Subject: [TR] winshield "tape"
In-Reply-To: <1337293829.78155.YahooMailNeo@web65514.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <1337293829.78155.YahooMailNeo@web65514.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4FB63371.7050604@gmail.com>

On 5/17/12 3:30 PM, Gary Nafziger wrote:
> I'm working with the material I got from TRF for the
> windshield but so far am scared to death I'll break the glass with the present
> stuff.  Just seems it'll take way to much force to get the windshield in the
> frame.
There are certain jobs that go easy and quickly if performed by people 
who do it all the time.  Jobs that can take a long time to do for a 
first timer or someone who does it once a decade or lest often.  Jobs 
with a fairly high chance of ruining something or not quite getting it 
right but being committed.

I put installing window glass in that category.  So I had a glass shop 
install the glass for both my vehicles.  No fuss no sticky goo 
everywhere.  I figure part of the restoration process is knowing what to 
farm out to the people who do that type of thing all the time and do it 
well.

Teriann

From r_rochlin at hotmail.com  Fri May 18 06:26:25 2012
From: r_rochlin at hotmail.com (Bob Rochlin)
Date: Fri, 18 May 2012 12:26:25 +0000
Subject: [TR] winshield "tape"
In-Reply-To: <1337293829.78155.YahooMailNeo@web65514.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <1337293829.78155.YahooMailNeo@web65514.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BAY167-W13007326A07FF3E8F8019489F1E0@phx.gbl>

Gary, The product is called 3M Strip Tape, part number 051135-08578.Bob

> Date: Thu, 17 May 2012 15:30:29 -0700
> From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] winshield "tape"
>
> Someone on the list several days ago mentioned a 3M tape that worked for
him
> on installing a tr-3 windshield.  He called it...............3M EPR Tape.
> I've asked for it at the local NAPA store and they didn't know what I was
> talking about.  I also got on the 3M web site and found various tapes but
> nothing specifically described as EPR.  Just wondering if there was another
> part number to go by?
> I'm working with the material I got from TRF for the
> windshield but so far am scared to death I'll break the glass with the
present
> stuff.  Just seems it'll take way to much force to get the windshield in
the
> frame.
>
> thanks!
>
> gary n.
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/r_rochlin at hotmail.com

From spook01 at comcast.net  Fri May 18 06:49:01 2012
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Fri, 18 May 2012 07:49:01 -0500
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?K_=26_N_air_filters?=
Message-ID: <mailman.5.1337345304.14507.triumphs@autox.team.net>

If they're  red and wrapped in plastic, they're oiled.
So far, I've got them on the mg, the triumph, the tiger, the suburban, the mini, the morris, the Riley, and the highlander.
All came ready to go. I suppose its POSSIBLE they sell some somewhere that aren't.  I buy them on line.
Perhaps k&n sells a cheap, non oiled filter over the counter and the premier ready to go variety only to me!  ;-) 

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Al Salvatore" <tr6parts at charter.net>
To: "Dennis Culligan" <dctr6 at optonline.net>, <triumphs at autox.team.net>, <spook01 at comcast.net>
Subject: [TR] K & N air filters
Date: Fri, May 18, 2012 06:18


I haven't seen them pre oiled either.

Al


----- Original Message ----- From: <spook01 at comcast.net>
To: "Dennis Culligan" <dctr6 at optonline.net>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2012 11:14 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] K & N air filters


> Huh...every k&n I ever bought had the oil already applied to the filter. > I don't think they sell them dry.
>
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone
>
> ----- Reply message -----
> From: "Dennis Culligan" <dctr6 at optonline.net>
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [TR] K & N air filters
> Date: Thu, May 17, 2012 17:04
>
>
> Re:  K & N air filters:
>
> The cleaner stuff is very similar to Formula 409.
>
> My local FLAPS sold me both the cleaner and the oil for $10.95.
>
> No new K & N air filter I have ever seen is pre-oiled. The oil is red so > you
> can tell if you've
>
> completely covered the entire surface area.
>
> YMMV.
>
> Dennis Culligan, Highland NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Fri May 18 08:16:30 2012
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 18 May 2012 07:16:30 -0700
Subject: [TR] K & N air filters
In-Reply-To: <20120518061031.52DA82D077E@autox.team.net>
References: <20120518061031.52DA82D077E@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bFxJPtGntkpN0obf1VYynvsDJtQH+ZrxO9JKi5_0mN8Gw@mail.gmail.com>

The one I just got appears to be oiled...

http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/VW/KN.jpg

Not for a TR... I prefer to not use them on those engines but for my rear
engine vehicle that sees a lot of dusty mountain roads I thought it might
make good sense.

Geo

----- Reply message -----
From: "Dennis Culligan" <dctr6 at optonline.net>


> No new K & N air filter I have ever seen is pre-oiled. The oil is red so
> you
> can tell if you've completely covered the entire surface area.

From dctr6 at optonline.net  Fri May 18 08:19:23 2012
From: dctr6 at optonline.net (Dennis Culligan)
Date: Fri, 18 May 2012 10:19:23 -0400
Subject: [TR] K & N air filters
In-Reply-To: <0M4700L62Y9SWPA1@mta14.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
References: <0M4700L62Y9SWPA1@mta14.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
Message-ID: <000c01cd3501$39be1390$ad3a3ab0$@net>

OK, that explains it b Ibve never seen one wrapped in plastic. I wondered
how

they kept the oil from running all over and damaging the packagingb&



Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / Land of the dry K & N filters



From: spook01 at comcast.net [mailto:spook01 at comcast.net]
Sent: Friday, May 18, 2012 8:49 AM
To: Al Salvatore; Dennis Culligan; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] K & N air filters



If they're  red and wrapped in plastic, they're oiled.
So far, I've got them on the mg, the triumph, the tiger, the suburban, the
mini, the morris, the Riley, and the highlander.
All came ready to go. I suppose its POSSIBLE they sell some somewhere that
aren't.  I buy them on line.
Perhaps k&n sells a cheap, non oiled filter over the counter and the premier
ready to go variety only to me!  ;-)

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Al Salvatore" <tr6parts at charter.net>
To: "Dennis Culligan" <dctr6 at optonline.net>, <triumphs at autox.team.net>,
<spook01 at comcast.net>
Subject: [TR] K & N air filters
Date: Fri, May 18, 2012 06:18


I haven't seen them pre oiled either.

Al


----- Original Message ----- From: <spook01 at comcast.net>
To: "Dennis Culligan" <dctr6 at optonline.net>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2012 11:14 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] K & N air filters


> Huh...every k&n I ever bought had the oil already applied to the filter. > I
don't think they sell them dry.
>
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone
>
> ----- Reply message -----
> From: "Dennis Culligan" <dctr6 at optonline.net>
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [TR] K & N air filters
> Date: Thu, May 17, 2012 17:04
>
>
> Re:  K & N air filters:
>
> The cleaner stuff is very similar to Formula 409.
>
> My local FLAPS sold me both the cleaner and the oil for $10.95.
>
> No new K & N air filter I have ever seen is pre-oiled. The oil is red so >
you
> can tell if you've
>
> completely covered the entire surface area.
>
> YMMV.
>
> Dennis Culligan, Highland NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Fri May 18 08:31:11 2012
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh)
Date: Fri, 18 May 2012 07:31:11 -0700
Subject: [TR] winshield "tape"
In-Reply-To: <4FB63371.7050604@gmail.com>
References: <1337293829.78155.YahooMailNeo@web65514.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
	<4FB63371.7050604@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <5E11F487-E26B-49CB-860A-81E3628FE30F@comcast.net>

What She said !!!  My windshield install cost $25.00, certainly cheaper than a
new Windshield.


On May 18, 2012, at 4:33 AM, TeriAnn J. Wakeman wrote:

> On 5/17/12 3:30 PM, Gary Nafziger wrote:
>> I'm working with the material I got from TRF for the
>> windshield but so far am scared to death I'll break the glass with the
present
>> stuff.  Just seems it'll take way to much force to get the windshield in
the
>> frame.
> There are certain jobs that go easy and quickly if performed by people who
do it all the time.  Jobs that can take a long time to do for a first timer or
someone who does it once a decade or lest often.  Jobs with a fairly high
chance of ruining something or not quite getting it right but being
committed.
>
> I put installing window glass in that category.  So I had a glass shop
install the glass for both my vehicles.  No fuss no sticky goo everywhere.  I
figure part of the restoration process is knowing what to farm out to the
people who do that type of thing all the time and do it well.
>
> Teriann

Bill Pugh
1957 TR3 "Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA
anabil007 at comcast.net

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Fri May 18 09:34:15 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Fri, 18 May 2012 08:34:15 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] winshield "tape"
In-Reply-To: <1337293829.78155.YahooMailNeo@web65514.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <1337293829.78155.YahooMailNeo@web65514.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1337355255.8443.YahooMailNeo@web120201.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

gary
i silicone sealed mine and my buddies in place.
here is how i did it.
i
cut pieces of electrical tape 3/4" long.
i positioned them on the edge of the
glass so that 1/4" was on the front, 1/4" wrapped around the edge and the
other 1/4 was on the back.
i placed 5 across the top and bottom and 2 up the
sides.
i kept adding layers of tape until the thickness was just an easy but
tight fit into the frame.
then clean the inside and edges of glass with
lacquer thinner.
assemble the frame around the glass and center the glass in
the frame.
check that the top tenex wont interfere and the side screws wont
touch.
apply masking tape in a few areas so that the glass wont move in the
frame now.
for ease of clean up later, i wiped the frame carefully on the
outside with a tiny amount of polishing wax.
i then pumped black silicone
caulking into the joint between the glass and the frame.
when caulking the
correct method is to "push" the caulk bead, not pull it.
by that i mean when
you place the caulking gun at the joint you will have it laying back at about
30 degrees to the surface. when you start to pump the caulking out of the gun
the bead of caulk will be behind the way you are moving the gun. if you look
only at the tip of the caulk you will see a little bubble form. the trick to
caulking is to keep that little bubble the same the whole time you are pushing
the caulk. those of us who have been in glazing for a while can push a bead
that requires no clean up. you will probably make a mess.
don't try to clean
up the mess. wait 2 days and then clean off with a sharp razor..carefully so
as not to scratch the glass.
the frame you waxed will let the sealant peal off
by hand.
 
after 2 days you can flip the frame over and do the other side.
 
 
you should use a good quality silicone sealant. you cant get good quality at
the box stores, they are all siliconized.
best stuff is Dow 795 or tremco
silpruf. can be obtained in tubes from crlawrence.com
i have a tube at home
that has about 3 months of shelf life left that i probably wont use. im happy
to ship it to you if you decide to go this way.
Frank 

From: Gary Nafziger
<nafzigerg at yahoo.com>
To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2012 3:30 PM
Subject: [TR] winshield "tape"

Someone
on the list several days ago mentioned a 3M tape that worked for him
on
installing a tr-3 windshield.  He called it...............3M EPR Tape. 
I've
asked for it at the local NAPA store and they didn't know what I was
talking
about.  I also got on the 3M web site and found various tapes but
nothing
specifically described as EPR.  Just wondering if there was another
part
number to go by?
I'm working with the material I got from TRF for the
windshield but so far am scared to death I'll break the glass with the present
stuff.  Just seems it'll take way to much force to get the windshield in the
frame.  

thanks!

gary n.

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Fri May 18 09:42:59 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Fri, 18 May 2012 08:42:59 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] K & N air filters
In-Reply-To: <20120518061016.96C312D06C8@autox.team.net>
References: <20120518061016.96C312D06C8@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <1337355779.95768.YahooMailNeo@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

but they do dry out in time and need a little love
especially here in the
California desert
Frank
 

From: "spook01 at comcast.net" <spook01 at comcast.net>
To: Dennis Culligan <dctr6 at optonline.net>; triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent:
Thursday, May 17, 2012 8:14 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] K & N air filters
Huh...every k&n I ever bought had the oil already applied to the filter.  I
don't think they sell them dry.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

-----
Reply message -----
From: "Dennis Culligan" <dctr6 at optonline.net>
To:
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] K & N air filters
Date: Thu, May 17,
2012 17:04


Re:  K & N air filters:

The cleaner stuff is very similar to
Formula 409.

My local FLAPS sold me both the cleaner and the oil for $10.95.
No new K & N air filter I have ever seen is pre-oiled. The oil is red so you
can tell if you've 

completely covered the entire surface area.

YMMV.
Dennis Culligan, Highland NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U    

**
triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From tfansher at comcast.net  Fri May 18 11:01:03 2012
From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 18 May 2012 17:01:03 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Was       winshield "tape"  now tenax pegs....
In-Reply-To: <4FB63371.7050604@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <159428220.761066.1337360463172.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

There was a discussion about a while back (years) and the general thoughts
were that there are various thicknesses of "tape" available and the pros have
a wider availability than we have.B  There's probably some variation of
thickness of glass and rechroming the frame will alter the gap,etc.

So checking with a pro about the different thicknesses could help if you still
want to do it yourself..

My 2 cents worth comes in before you install the glass.B  I think historically
we all installed the glass then the tenax pegs along the top edge and IF they
were too long, we cracked our windshields and got to start all over
again....ask me how I know......so the second time I installed the tenax pegs
first and if they were too long, I used my cut off wheel and ground them to
the proper length from the inside of the frame....nice and tight and no
guessing...on another note, I think the glass probably shouldn't slide up as
far as the pegs anyway, but that's hard to stop if the glass starts to move
when you're installing the lower portion....

Tom

60 TR3A

61 TR3A

62 TR4

73 Stag



----- Original Message -----


From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman at gmail.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, May 18, 2012 7:33:05 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] winshield "tape"

On 5/17/12 3:30 PM, Gary Nafziger wrote:
> I'm working with the material I got from TRF for the
> windshield but so far am scared to death I'll break the glass with the
present
> stuff. B Just seems it'll take way to much force to get the windshield in
the
> frame.
There are certain jobs that go easy and quickly if performed by people
who do it all the time. B Jobs that can take a long time to do for a
first timer or someone who does it once a decade or lest often. B Jobs
with a fairly high chance of ruining something or not quite getting it
right but being committed.

I put installing window glass in that category. B So I had a glass shop
install the glass for both my vehicles. B No fuss no sticky goo
everywhere. B I figure part of the restoration process is knowing what to
farm out to the people who do that type of thing all the time and do it
well.

Teriann

From lee at automate-it.com  Fri May 18 11:11:08 2012
From: lee at automate-it.com (Lee Daniels)
Date: Fri, 18 May 2012 12:11:08 -0500
Subject: [TR] Oil for K & N Air Filters
In-Reply-To: <D4EB1D3BBD684260BEFFCE036E71C120@DCH6RFC1>
References: <9E1CC0F0B106764CA9F4156E627D8B0D0A2373@017-CH1MPN1-022.017d.mgd.msft.net>
	<D4EB1D3BBD684260BEFFCE036E71C120@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <b01d180cb15bb5844dc150835bd7d507.squirrel@www.automate-it.com>

The answer to "do they come pre-oiled" is right on the K&N web site "FAQ"
page, question number 10:

10. Do K&N air filters come pre-oiled or must they be oiled before using?

Almost all K&N air filters come pre-oiled and ready to use.  The filter oil we
use is red.  A new oiled filter will appear red-pink in color.  Some crankcase
vent air filters come unoiled, however, they come with a small packet of K&N
filter oil so they can be oiled before use.  There are also a limited number
of filters with specialty uses which are not pre-oiled.  These items will be
clearly marked as unoiled.  Using an unoiled K&N filter will greatly reduce
the filter's efficiency and void our product warranty on filters that come
pre-oiled from the factory.  If you receive a filter that is packaged in its
cellophane wrapper and is unoiled, contact K&N's Customer Support department
at (800) 858-3333.

(see http://www.knfilters.com/faq.htm#10 )

So the real answer is "Maybe"...

 Lee

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Fri May 18 11:18:17 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Fri, 18 May 2012 10:18:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] K & N air filters
In-Reply-To: <000c01cd3501$39be1390$ad3a3ab0$@net>
References: <0M4700L62Y9SWPA1@mta14.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
	<000c01cd3501$39be1390$ad3a3ab0$@net>
Message-ID: <1337361497.85381.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Dennis
there not all sloppy drippy wet.
there just moist
Frank

From: Dennis
Culligan <dctr6 at optonline.net>
To: spook01 at comcast.net; 'Al Salvatore'
<tr6parts at charter.net>; triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Friday, May 18, 2012
7:19 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] K & N air filters

OK, that explains it b Ibve never
seen one wrapped in plastic. I wondered
how

they kept the oil from running
all over and damaging the packagingb&



Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / Land
of the dry K & N filters



From: spook01 at comcast.net
[mailto:spook01 at comcast.net]
Sent: Friday, May 18, 2012 8:49 AM
To: Al
Salvatore; Dennis Culligan; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] K & N
air filters



If they're  red and wrapped in plastic, they're oiled.
So far,
I've got them on the mg, the triumph, the tiger, the suburban, the
mini, the
morris, the Riley, and the highlander.
All came ready to go. I suppose its
POSSIBLE they sell some somewhere that
aren't.  I buy them on line.
Perhaps
k&n sells a cheap, non oiled filter over the counter and the premier
ready to
go variety only to me!  ;-)

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply
message -----
From: "Al Salvatore" <tr6parts at charter.net>
To: "Dennis
Culligan" <dctr6 at optonline.net>, <triumphs at autox.team.net>,
<spook01 at comcast.net>
Subject: [TR] K & N air filters
Date: Fri, May 18, 2012
06:18


I haven't seen them pre oiled either.

Al


----- Original Message
----- From: <spook01 at comcast.net>
To: "Dennis Culligan" <dctr6 at optonline.net>;
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2012 11:14 PM
Subject: Re:
[TR] K & N air filters


> Huh...every k&n I ever bought had the oil already
applied to the filter. > I
don't think they sell them dry.
>
> Sent from my
Verizon Wireless Phone
>
> ----- Reply message -----
> From: "Dennis Culligan"
<dctr6 at optonline.net>
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [TR] K & N
air filters
> Date: Thu, May 17, 2012 17:04
>
>
> Re:  K & N air filters:
>
>
The cleaner stuff is very similar to Formula 409.
>
> My local FLAPS sold me
both the cleaner and the oil for $10.95.
>
> No new K & N air filter I have
ever seen is pre-oiled. The oil is red so >
you
> can tell if you've
>
>
completely covered the entire surface area.
>
> YMMV.
>
> Dennis Culligan,
Highland NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From pethier at comcast.net  Fri May 18 11:39:10 2012
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 18 May 2012 17:39:10 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] registration hoax?
Message-ID: <1603137131.16235.1337362750419.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

registration hoax?

I got a mail that said I was about to be dropped from triumphs list.  I do NOT want to be dropped.

Is this an attack hoax

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://www.mnautox.com

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri May 18 12:32:33 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 18 May 2012 11:32:33 -0700
Subject: [TR] winshield "tape"
In-Reply-To: <5E11F487-E26B-49CB-860A-81E3628FE30F@comcast.net>
References: <1337293829.78155.YahooMailNeo@web65514.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
	<4FB63371.7050604@gmail.com>
	<5E11F487-E26B-49CB-860A-81E3628FE30F@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <019101cd3524$97fce300$c7f6a900$@rr.com>

> What She said !!!  My windshield install cost $25.00, certainly cheaper
> than a
> new Windshield.

Ditto, but that was a long, long time ago.  I carried the glass and the
frame into a "auto glass" shop down the street.  They installed the glass
into the frame (using a rubber strip that they supplied).  As I recall, the
charge was $15 (in 1977 or so dollars).

More recently, I got a quote of $150 for insurance purposes.

-- Randall 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri May 18 12:38:03 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 18 May 2012 11:38:03 -0700
Subject: [TR] K & N air filters
In-Reply-To: <000c01cd3501$39be1390$ad3a3ab0$@net>
References: <0M4700L62Y9SWPA1@mta14.srv.hcvlny.cv.net>
	<000c01cd3501$39be1390$ad3a3ab0$@net>
Message-ID: <019201cd3525$5c9345b0$15b9d110$@rr.com>

I know there are some folks out there who buy "raw" K&N filters and then
repackage them along with the metal parts to mount to SU & ZS carbs.
Perhaps the repackagers are the ones that oil them and wrap in plastic?  

Just a thought.  Personally I intend to stick with paper elements for the
street, as I believe they do a better job of keeping dirt out of the engine
and I'm willing to sacrifice a horsepower or two to avoid having to re-ring
every few years.  But then I drive probably 10,000 miles/year, while some
folks will never put that much on their TRs.

-- Randall 

From dhungerf60 at live.com  Fri May 18 16:11:33 2012
From: dhungerf60 at live.com (Douglas Hungerford)
Date: Fri, 18 May 2012 18:11:33 -0400
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
Message-ID: <COL104-W326B816A5EC8FCDA9F17A9A41E0@phx.gbl>

Easy ways t0 make m0ney fr0m h0me
http://telewizjaslaska.pl/httptomonzz2.php?ucutopID=242




Fri, 18 May 2012 23:11:33
__________________
  But she said shed set up for him a while anyway, and keep alight burning so
he could see it. decoda aelfdene

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Fri May 18 18:09:17 2012
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Fri, 18 May 2012 17:09:17 -0700
Subject: [TR] K & N air filters
In-Reply-To: <CANzE1bFxJPtGntkpN0obf1VYynvsDJtQH+ZrxO9JKi5_0mN8Gw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20120518061031.52DA82D077E@autox.team.net>
	<CANzE1bFxJPtGntkpN0obf1VYynvsDJtQH+ZrxO9JKi5_0mN8Gw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4FB6E4AD.102@gmail.com>

On 5/18/12 7:16 AM, Geo Hahn wrote:
> The one I just got appears to be oiled...
>
> http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/VW/KN.jpg
>
> Not for a TR... I prefer to not use them on those engines but for my rear
> engine vehicle that sees a lot of dusty mountain roads I thought it might
> make good sense.
>
Say what????????????

For an off road vehicle your #1 choice should be an oil bath filter.

Your #2 choice should be a spinning prefilter in front of a paper filter 
(think Donaldson earth mover 2 stage filter systems)
Your #3 choice a box of paper filters
Your last choice before no filter would be an oiled foam filter such as 
a K&N. A k&N will filter out low flying birds, rocks, gum wrappers, 
small children, but not fine dust.  Them folks who get paid to race off 
road with K&N filters completely rebuild the engine after each race. 
Breaths really well but foam filters do not filter out fine dust. You 
can use one as a first stage to a 2 stage filter system but they are not 
as good as the spinner 2 stage systems.

Teriann
TR3 with itg oiled foam filter
Land Rover with Donaldson 2 stage earth mover type filter system

From mark at bradakis.com  Fri May 18 21:20:43 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Fri, 18 May 2012 21:20:43 -0600
Subject: [TR] Forums back up!
Message-ID: <4FB7118B.8080506@bradakis.com>

Spent some time working on the forums.  Basic functionality is back.
You can look at them, log in and post.  Not yet sure if new registrations
work, I'll test that soon.

The incentive for getting this done was pretty selfish.  I wanted to tell
folks about an incident yesterday at work:

http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=129


One minor nit is that for some reason this post doesn't show up
when you click on 'View active topics' but it does show up when you
click on 'View new posts'  Oh well, I'm sure other problems will crop
up as folks make use of it.

mjb.

From spook01 at comcast.net  Sat May 19 05:10:03 2012
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Sat, 19 May 2012 06:10:03 -0500
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?K_=26_N_air_filters?=
Message-ID: <mailman.0.1337425766.22192.triumphs@autox.team.net>

This "k&n won't filter anything" is a myth, unsupported by any objective scientific study.
Oil bath filters are great if they are serviced and you can put up with the mess.
Since most of us aren't driving earthmovers, I'm pretty certain using a spinning disc is overkill.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman at gmail.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] K & N air filters
Date: Fri, May 18, 2012 19:09


On 5/18/12 7:16 AM, Geo Hahn wrote:
> The one I just got appears to be oiled...
>
> http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/VW/KN.jpg
>
> Not for a TR... I prefer to not use them on those engines but for my rear
> engine vehicle that sees a lot of dusty mountain roads I thought it might
> make good sense.
>
Say what????????????

For an off road vehicle your #1 choice should be an oil bath filter.

Your #2 choice should be a spinning prefilter in front of a paper filter (think Donaldson earth mover 2 stage filter systems)
Your #3 choice a box of paper filters
Your last choice before no filter would be an oiled foam filter such as a K&N. A k&N will filter out low flying birds, rocks, gum wrappers, small children, but not fine dust.  Them folks who get paid to race off road with K&N filters completely rebuild the engine after each race. Breaths really well but foam filters do not filter out fine dust. You can use one as a first stage to a 2 stage filter system but they are not as good as the spinner 2 stage systems.

Teriann
TR3 with itg oiled foam filter
Land Rover with Donaldson 2 stage earth mover type filter system

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Sat May 19 06:10:25 2012
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Sat, 19 May 2012 05:10:25 -0700
Subject: [TR] K & N air filters
In-Reply-To: <4fb77f8d.08e9440a.33e0.1b57SMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
References: <4fb77f8d.08e9440a.33e0.1b57SMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <4FB78DB1.9080302@gmail.com>

On 5/19/12 4:10 AM, spook01 at comcast.net wrote:
> This "k&n won't filter anything" is a myth, unsupported by any 
> objective scientific study.
I have a friend who shipped his Land Rover to South Africa for the Land 
Rover 50th anniversary  festivities.  He has about 40 or 5 months of 
Land Rover club travels throughout South Africa with various Land Rovers 
planned out.  In preparation he had his engine completely rebuilt by a 
well know reputable Land Rover engine specialist.  To which he added a 
fresh K&N filter.  There are parts of the South African bush where the 
dust kicked up during travel included diamond dust.  About half way 
through his travels he had to stop for an engine replacement because his 
truck did not have enough compression to run.  Diamond dust got through 
the K&N filter and destroyed the engine's rings & badly scored the 
cylinder walls.  ALL the locals used the stock LR oil bath air filters 
without problem.  My friend completed the trip with a stock Land Rover 
oil bath air filter  After being side lined a week because of a "myth".

The expedition travel style 4X4 crowd that uses a vehicle for long off 
road miles in dusty situations do not use K&N filters.  Only newbies and 
people who venture off road on relatively rare occasions.
> Oil bath filters are great if they are serviced and you can put up 
> with the mess.
Service intervals depends upon use in heavy dust but is usually about he 
same as with a paper filter.  It consists of pouring out the old oil, 
wiping the inside of the reservoir clean and refilling to the line with 
either fresh oil or used engine oil that has been run through a paper 
filter.  Having lived with one for about 20 years, it is not any messier 
than changing the oil & oil filter yourself.  With a cartridge oil 
filter usually less messier.
> Since most of us aren't driving earthmovers, I'm pretty certain using 
> a spinning disc is overkill.
Yes it is overkill on a street vehicle unless you are running a 
commercial vehicle and have to figure engine maintenance into your 
profit & loss columns.  Most commercial long range trucks run a 2 stage 
filter system on the road to squeeze every mile out between engine rebuilds.

But the original post was about a K&N filter used off road in dusty 
situations.  Under those situations a paper filter can become clogged in 
a day or two unless there is an effective prefilter in front.  a two 
stage filter system is not overkill for off road travel in dusty trail 
situations.

With 34 years experience with long range travel off road in a Land Rover 
I thought I would throw in my two cents.

Teriann
>
> ----- Reply message -----
> From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman at gmail.com>
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [TR] K & N air filters
> Date: Fri, May 18, 2012 19:09
>
>
> On 5/18/12 7:16 AM, Geo Hahn wrote:
>
> > Not for a TR... I prefer to not use them on those engines but for my 
> rear
> > engine vehicle that sees a lot of dusty mountain roads I thought it 
> might
> > make good sense.
> >
> Say what????????????
>
> For an off road vehicle your #1 choice should be an oil bath filter.
>
> Your #2 choice should be a spinning prefilter in front of a paper 
> filter (think Donaldson earth mover 2 stage filter systems)
> Your #3 choice a box of paper filters
> Your last choice before no filter would be an oiled foam filter such 
> as a K&N. A k&N will filter out low flying birds, rocks, gum wrappers, 
> small children, but not fine dust.  Them folks who get paid to race 
> off road with K&N filters completely rebuild the engine after each 
> race. Breaths really well but foam filters do not filter out fine 
> dust. You can use one as a first stage to a 2 stage filter system but 
> they are not as good as the spinner 2 stage systems.
>
> Teriann
> TR3 with itg oiled foam filter
> Land Rover with Donaldson 2 stage earth mover type filter system
...

From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk  Sat May 19 07:23:48 2012
From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Sat, 19 May 2012 14:23:48 +0100 (BST)
Subject: [TR] K & N air filters
In-Reply-To: <20120519110943.ED0FA2D0475@autox.team.net>
References: <20120519110943.ED0FA2D0475@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <1337433828.94822.YahooMailNeo@web29406.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

IMHO, the KN filter is a waste of money. I had two on my Triumph 2000, noticed
nothing in terms of 'increased performance' (but then I don't believe such
claims anyway) and certainly no increase in the amount of filth the KN
retained in comparison to my conventional Unipart paper filter. 
That said,
mere observation is an inaccurate method of efficacy measurement but I was and
still am far from convinced.
 I've also asked many people if they believed the
advertising hype, seen increased dirt retention or felt the KN was a better
option? The answers have been 'No' in all cases - but perhaps those people
were all grumpy old *b*****s" just like me? 
 
Jonmac

 

From rjones at wfeca.net  Sat May 19 08:35:41 2012
From: rjones at wfeca.net (Robert Jones)
Date: Sat, 19 May 2012 09:35:41 -0500
Subject: [TR] K & N air filters
In-Reply-To: <1337433828.94822.YahooMailNeo@web29406.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
References: <20120519110943.ED0FA2D0475@autox.team.net>
	<1337433828.94822.YahooMailNeo@web29406.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <088490CC-B9E4-451F-9BCE-1BB7AD323425@wfeca.net>

John an All;

Every English car magazine and many Englishmen pretty well treats everything
automotive originating in the USA with disdain.  Could there be a little of
that creeping in here?

Bob
On May 19, 2012, at 8:23 AM, John Macartney wrote:

> IMHO, the KN filter is a waste of money. I had two on my Triumph 2000,
noticed
> nothing in terms of 'increased performance' (but then I don't believe such
> claims anyway) and certainly no increase in the amount of filth the KN
> retained in comparison to my conventional Unipart paper filter.
> That said,
> mere observation is an inaccurate method of efficacy measurement but I was
and
> still am far from convinced.
> I've also asked many people if they believed the
> advertising hype, seen increased dirt retention or felt the KN was a better
> option? The answers have been 'No' in all cases - but perhaps those people
> were all grumpy old *b*****s" just like me?
>
> Jonmac
>
>
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rjones at wfeca.net

From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk  Sat May 19 10:08:55 2012
From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Sat, 19 May 2012 17:08:55 +0100 (BST)
Subject: [TR] K & N air filters
In-Reply-To: <088490CC-B9E4-451F-9BCE-1BB7AD323425@wfeca.net>
References: <20120519110943.ED0FA2D0475@autox.team.net>
	<1337433828.94822.YahooMailNeo@web29406.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
	<088490CC-B9E4-451F-9BCE-1BB7AD323425@wfeca.net>
Message-ID: <1337443735.56545.YahooMailNeo@web29401.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

Hi, Bob
 
I had absolutely no idea until getting your post that KN was of
American origin/manufacture :) so *very, v-e-r-y* sorry to one and all if I
inadvertantly trod on patriotic toes. 
I still think it's a waste of money and
in the same vein as using synthetic engine oil in our engines. 
In the case of
the oil though, I applaud its use in modern engines because the operating
pressures and temperatures are so much higher. But for power units of forty
plus years (or more) ago, give me good ole mineral 20/50. And for old engines
with a bit of 'slop' in bearings and gaps you could drive a horse and cart
through, my favourite strawberry conserve (with or without the fruit) would
probably be just as good as an alternative.

John
 
________________________________
 From: Robert Jones <rjones at wfeca.net>
To:
John Macartney <flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk>; triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent:
Saturday, 19 May 2012, 15:35
Subject: Re: [TR] K & N air filters


>John an
All;
>
>Every English car magazine and many Englishmen pretty well treats
everything automotive originating in the USA with disdain.  Could there be a
little of that creeping in here?
>
>Bob
>On May 19, 2012, at 8:23 AM, John
Macartney wrote:
>
>> IMHO, the KN filter is a waste of money. I had two on my
Triumph 2000, noticed
>> nothing in terms of 'increased performance' (but then
I don't believe such
>> claims anyway) and certainly no increase in the amount
of filth the KN
>> retained in comparison to my conventional Unipart paper
filter. 
>> That said,
>> mere observation is an inaccurate method of efficacy
measurement but I was and
>> still am far from convinced.
>> I've also asked
many people if they believed the
>> advertising hype, seen increased dirt
retention or felt the KN was a better
>> option? The answers have been 'No' in
all cases - but perhaps those people
>> were all grumpy old *b*****s" just
like me? 
>> 
>> Jonmac
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>> 
>>
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rjones at wfeca.net

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat May 19 10:24:00 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 19 May 2012 09:24:00 -0700
Subject: [TR] K & N air filters
In-Reply-To: <20120519110953.D459F2D046E@autox.team.net>
References: <20120519110953.D459F2D046E@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <113901cd35db$ccf87f80$0601a8c0@randall>

> This "k&n won't filter anything" is a myth, unsupported by 
> any objective scientific study.

On the contrary, every objective study I've seen shows that the K&N filters
are at the back of the pack as far as both removing and holding dirt.  This
one is a bit less "scientific" but quite valid, IMO.  Notice in the very
first photo, how much dirt went through the K&N and got caught by an
ordinary paper filter.
http://goo.gl/fkMJJ

Want something a bit more quantitative?  Try this one:
http://goo.gl/eQAuW

Note, I fully agree, these tests don't show "won't filter anything".  The
K&N will stop 90% of fine (according to ISO) dust, which is a lot better
than the stock TR3 screens will likely do.  But when an ordinary Delco paper
element filter will stop over 99.9% of fine dust, that means the K&N is
letting through 100 times as much dirt.

Also, it certainly depends on your environment.  Some areas likely don't
have much fine dust.  But Los Angeles not only has a LOT of dust, it is
extremely abrasive.  If I don't wash my car for a week (which admittedly I
almost never do), and then wipe my hand across the paint, the dust will
leave permanent scratches!  I don't know, but I believe that much of the
dust is actually very fine particles of broken sand, created by dust storms
in the desert and carried here on the breeze.

-- Randall  

From wbeech at flash.net  Sat May 19 10:24:19 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sat, 19 May 2012 11:24:19 -0500
Subject: [TR] Master or Slave problem
Message-ID: <5D0F0B324C0145B6BA87875E34A850C0@bboffice>

All was good then one day I had to pump the clutch pedal a few times to get
it to disengage.  First thought, air in the line or low fluid.  Fluid was
good so bled the line... twice... no soap.  So, I suppose I need to narrow
this down to the master or the slave cylinder.  Both were rebuild just 4
years, 3,500mi, ago and have been performing flawlessly up until now.
 
Is there a way to determine whether it is the M/C or the S/C, so I can maybe
have a chance of starting in the right place?
 
Thanks,
Bill
 
Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS30766L "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"Hello, my name is Bill and I own an old British car.  Now...What are the
next 11 steps?"

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat May 19 10:34:48 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 19 May 2012 09:34:48 -0700
Subject: [TR] Master or Slave problem
In-Reply-To: <5D0F0B324C0145B6BA87875E34A850C0@bboffice>
References: <5D0F0B324C0145B6BA87875E34A850C0@bboffice>
Message-ID: <113d01cd35dd$4efe8500$0601a8c0@randall>

> Is there a way to determine whether it is the M/C or the S/C, 
> so I can maybe
> have a chance of starting in the right place?

There is basically no way for the slave to fail, except to leak fluid.  If
no leak, it's not the slave cylinder.  And even if it does start leaking,
the leak will likely be slow enough that low fluid will be the first thing
you notice (not having to pump the pedal).

Check out the MC first, definitely.  But your description sounds
suspiciously like the dread broken taper pin.

-- Randall  

From scott.jameson at swbell.net  Sat May 19 11:45:11 2012
From: scott.jameson at swbell.net (Scott Jameson)
Date: Sat, 19 May 2012 12:45:11 -0500
Subject: [TR] Best way to sell a TR-3B ?
Message-ID: <BBB631523BE340F29ABB3484D711D0DC@Jameson6157>

I've owned a TR-3B since the mid-90s and drove it occasionally, up until 4 or
5 years ago.  At that time, I took it to a local British car shop to see about
having the battery tray replaced and was told the frame was shot.  Not too
surprising, as it was a northeast car originally, but certainly disappointing.
The car has been sitting in my garage since then, while I've contemplated
doing a full restoration, and I now realize I don't have the time, money or
know how.

The car is mostly complete and appears largely unmodified.  It does have a
non-functioning electric fuel pump and doesn't currently run.  The engine
appears to be original, based on the BMIHT certificate, but I don't know if it
was previously rebuilt.  I've also accumulated various parts, primarily from
TRF, along the way, such as a clutch, exhaust system, brake lines, etc.

My question is what's the best way to try to sell this car ?  I know about
eBay, but are there more specialized sites ?  I believe there's some value in
it, even though it requires a full restoration.  I have enough emotional
attachment to the car to hope it could go to someone with the wherewithal to
restore it, as it seems a shame to lose one of these after 50 years.

Thanks for any advice or ideas,
Scott

From mhooper at indiefilmnet.com  Sat May 19 12:17:00 2012
From: mhooper at indiefilmnet.com (Mark Hooper)
Date: Sat, 19 May 2012 14:17:00 -0400
Subject: [TR] K & N air filters
In-Reply-To: <1337433828.94822.YahooMailNeo@web29406.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <abe68594.1cd35eb.44bdd1b.29@indiefilmnet.com>

In the past I have installed K&N filters on my motorcycles and my TR6 for the
following highly technical reasons:

/start technical reasons

1 - They look pretty.
2 - They let me fit nice shiny filter enclosures

/end technical reasons

They certainly do flow more easily than paper filters. Just put them on a
2-stroke motorcycle and watch it stop working due to the changed intake vacuum
level. Unfortunately it is probably also true that the flow improvement is due
to less effective filtering.

Faut souffrir pour etre belle.


Mark Hooper
1972 TR6 (with triple Strombergs and K&Ns)


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of John Macartney
Sent: May-19-12 9:24 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] K & N air filters

IMHO, the KN filter is a waste of money. I had two on my Triumph 2000,
noticed
nothing in terms of 'increased performance' (but then I don't believe such
claims anyway) and certainly no increase in the amount of filth the KN
retained in comparison to my conventional Unipart paper filter.
That said,
mere observation is an inaccurate method of efficacy measurement but I was
and
still am far from convinced.
 I've also asked many people if they believed the
advertising hype, seen increased dirt retention or felt the KN was a better
option? The answers have been 'No' in all cases - but perhaps those people
were all grumpy old *b*****s" just like me?

Jonmac

From spook01 at comcast.net  Sat May 19 12:26:38 2012
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Sat, 19 May 2012 13:26:38 -0500
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?K_=26_N_air_filters?=
Message-ID: <mailman.1.1337451960.22192.triumphs@autox.team.net>

If so, I advise you to file a false advertising claim with the Feds.  That would be the FTC Bureau of Consumer Protection. 
False Advertising.  Won't cost you a dime to file.
Those of you in California and other states have state agencies in addition to the Feds, and all these agencies take this sort of consumer fraud VERY seriously.  K&N is a multi million dollar business doing business world wide.  
If they're lying it is your moral duty to file on them.
So, if you really KNOW something and aren't just repeating stuff off the internet, slap iron.
Written in a friendly, nutritive, and supportive way, of course.


Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Randall" <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: <spook01 at comcast.net>, <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] K & N air filters
Date: Sat, May 19, 2012 11:24


> This "k&n won't filter anything" is a myth, unsupported by 
> any objective scientific study.

On the contrary, every objective study I've seen shows that the K&N filters
are at the back of the pack as far as both removing and holding dirt.  This
one is a bit less "scientific" but quite valid, IMO.  Notice in the very
first photo, how much dirt went through the K&N and got caught by an
ordinary paper filter.
http://goo.gl/fkMJJ

Want something a bit more quantitative?  Try this one:
http://goo.gl/eQAuW

Note, I fully agree, these tests don't show "won't filter anything".  The
K&N will stop 90% of fine (according to ISO) dust, which is a lot better
than the stock TR3 screens will likely do.  But when an ordinary Delco paper
element filter will stop over 99.9% of fine dust, that means the K&N is
letting through 100 times as much dirt.

Also, it certainly depends on your environment.  Some areas likely don't
have much fine dust.  But Los Angeles not only has a LOT of dust, it is
extremely abrasive.  If I don't wash my car for a week (which admittedly I
almost never do), and then wipe my hand across the paint, the dust will
leave permanent scratches!  I don't know, but I believe that much of the
dust is actually very fine particles of broken sand, created by dust storms
in the desert and carried here on the breeze.

-- Randall  

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat May 19 12:49:14 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 19 May 2012 11:49:14 -0700
Subject: [TR] K & N air filters
In-Reply-To: <96.39.14000.2E5E7BF4@cdptpa-mxlb.mail.rr.com>
References: <96.39.14000.2E5E7BF4@cdptpa-mxlb.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <115c01cd35f0$16767ea0$0601a8c0@randall>

> If so, I advise you to file a false advertising claim with 
> the Feds. 

Examine their ad copy carefully.  Nowhere do they claim that their filter
will remove even as much dirt as other filters.  It is a "better filter"
because it flows more air.  It removes "99% of dirt", but they don't say
what kind of dirt; small boulders perhaps.

And the FTC is nearly toothless anyway.  All they ever do anymore is wait a
few years, then get a token settlement.  The latest one against Sketchers is
a perfect example, the company made over $130 million just in 2010; the FTC
settled for less than 1/4 of one year's profits.  If you're lucky, you'll
get $20 back.  (I'll forego the obvious political comment.)

False advertising pays.

-- Randall  

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat May 19 12:52:36 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 19 May 2012 11:52:36 -0700
Subject: [TR] K & N air filters
In-Reply-To: <20120519182614.2F9D82D04DE@autox.team.net>
References: <20120519182614.2F9D82D04DE@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <115d01cd35f0$8eca2cd0$0601a8c0@randall>

> So, if you really KNOW something

So, where is YOUR independent scientific study, showing that it is possible
to flow more air and stop more dirt at the same time, using the magic oil
and one of the oldest filter technologies known to man?

I don't need a study to tell me that perpetual motion is impossible.
-- Randall  

From mdporter at dfn.com  Sat May 19 13:26:11 2012
From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter)
Date: Sat, 19 May 2012 13:26:11 -0600
Subject: [TR] K & N air filters
In-Reply-To: <abe68594.1cd35eb.44bdd1b.29@indiefilmnet.com>
References: <abe68594.1cd35eb.44bdd1b.29@indiefilmnet.com>
Message-ID: <4FB7F3D3.7010101@dfn.com>

On 5/19/2012 12:17 PM, Mark Hooper wrote:
> In the past I have installed K&N filters on my motorcycles and my TR6 for the
> following highly technical reasons:
>
> /start technical reasons
>
> 1 - They look pretty.
> 2 - They let me fit nice shiny filter enclosures
>
> /end technical reasons
>
> They certainly do flow more easily than paper filters.

I've only had limited experience with a K&N.  My GT6 came with ones 
that, admittedly, hadn't been properly maintained (hadn't been cleaned 
and oiled to spec).  It also burned oil at a prodigious rate.  When I 
did an emergency ring job on it, the cylinders looked as if they'd been 
smoothed with fine sandpaper (virtually all engines that have been 
broken in properly and had the oil and filter changed to schedule will 
retain some evidence of honing underneath the cylinder glaze--this one 
had none).

That said, most heavy-duty transit engines still use big canister-type 
paper filters.  When I first started in that business, there were a 
number of failures of Donaldson filters, which Donaldson tracked down to 
shops using compressed air to blow dirt off of and out of the filters.  
Even at fairly low pressures, that practice produced microscopic tears 
that allowed quite a bit of dirt to pass through the filter, so they 
began recommending that their filters be tapped gently to dislodge caked 
dust and be reused until they no longer met specs, since they had found 
that the finest dust particles tended to plug the pores in the paper 
advantageously--they stopped the small particles from passing the 
element.  (This is a practice that's probably unsuitable for 
normally-aspirated gasoline engines, since most big diesels today have 
turbos assisting cylinder charging, which means they can tolerate a 
bigger pressure drop across the filter, and most HD diesels have _really 
big_ filters with lots of excess capacity.)

But, still, most cars today typically run paper filters, and thanks to 
the minimal bore-washing that occurs with good engine management and 
fuel injection, will typically run several hundred thousand miles with 
regular maintenance.  Moreover, for most Triumphs, the real limiting 
factor for flow is the engine itself, not the carburetors or the air 
filters.


Cheers.

-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....

From spook01 at comcast.net  Sat May 19 15:02:54 2012
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Sat, 19 May 2012 16:02:54 -0500
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?K_=26_N_air_filters?=
Message-ID: <mailman.2.1337461337.22192.triumphs@autox.team.net>

Ah, but think of the hit a much larger company would take..
I think you should turn them in and let attorneys parse their ware touting.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Randall" <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: <spook01 at comcast.net>, <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] K & N air filters
Date: Sat, May 19, 2012 13:49


> If so, I advise you to file a false advertising claim with 
> the Feds. 

Examine their ad copy carefully.  Nowhere do they claim that their filter
will remove even as much dirt as other filters.  It is a "better filter"
because it flows more air.  It removes "99% of dirt", but they don't say
what kind of dirt; small boulders perhaps.

And the FTC is nearly toothless anyway.  All they ever do anymore is wait a
few years, then get a token settlement.  The latest one against Sketchers is
a perfect example, the company made over $130 million just in 2010; the FTC
settled for less than 1/4 of one year's profits.  If you're lucky, you'll
get $20 back.  (I'll forego the obvious political comment.)

False advertising pays.

-- Randall  

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat May 19 15:43:48 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 19 May 2012 14:43:48 -0700
Subject: [TR] K & N air filters
In-Reply-To: <20120519210240.5ABA82D03DF@autox.team.net>
References: <20120519210240.5ABA82D03DF@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <119d01cd3608$79d36db0$0601a8c0@randall>

> Ah, but think of the hit a much larger company would take..

What much larger company? 

> I think you should turn them in and let attorneys parse their 
> ware touting.

No, no, it was your idea first.  You go right ahead and waste your time, I'd
rather enjoy my Triumph.

-- Randall  

From spook01 at comcast.net  Sat May 19 15:55:58 2012
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Sat, 19 May 2012 16:55:58 -0500
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?K_=26_N_air_filters?=
Message-ID: <mailman.3.1337464522.22192.triumphs@autox.team.net>

I am not claiming they are lying about their filtration claims. You should report them if you truly think they are engaging in false advertising.
We all know you can hook a filter up sufficiently fine to stop micro particles.  You could put a hepafilter on the car.  
You would have fewer particles for the half hour before it filled up.
So what?  Not a good filter.
The only study I'm conversant with is one conducted by Professor Frank Chambers.  He studied design of filters, boundary layer flow, etc.  Interesting reading on a long overnight.
Some (operative word) paper filters may take out smaller particles at the cost of lower air flow volume and shorter service life than wetted cotton media filters.  Maybe.
You are obviously emotionally invested in your opinion on paper filters; fair enough.  
But you must acknowledge there is a tradeoff in filtration, as in all things.  
The 5 micron coarse size particle used in SAE tests has little effect on engine wear.  
Engines went for years with NO air filtration system.  Thousands of miles.
The filters on the TR3-4's were mere oil wetted coarse steel wool.  They were washed out and re oiled.  I think we can safely say they passed larger particles than do ANY current filter.
Did the engines need re building every 10,000 miles?  Of course not.
To put this  all in perspective, a oil filter traps particles between 10 and 15 microns.
So, we worry about trapping bits one third the size of the things rattling around in the oil system?
You must trade particle entrapment with air flow volume sustainability, and service life.
I've seen 11.4 HP on the dyno merely with a switch to a wetted cotton matrix filter.  That was a 5 liter v-8.
My guess is that one might gain 2 HP on these cars with a k&n simply because the early filters have such little resistance.  Every little bit helps!
But to claim the k&n company is defrauding people by producing useless and inferior filters, as some have done on this list, is irresponsible at the very least.


Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Randall" <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: <spook01 at comcast.net>, <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] K & N air filters
Date: Sat, May 19, 2012 13:52


> So, if you really KNOW something

So, where is YOUR independent scientific study, showing that it is possible
to flow more air and stop more dirt at the same time, using the magic oil
and one of the oldest filter technologies known to man?

I don't need a study to tell me that perpetual motion is impossible.
-- Randall  

From spook01 at comcast.net  Sat May 19 15:57:46 2012
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Sat, 19 May 2012 16:57:46 -0500
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?K_=26_N_air_filters?=
Message-ID: <mailman.4.1337464629.22192.triumphs@autox.team.net>

I think they build a fine filter.  
It's only logical you take up the nay sayers banner.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Randall" <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: <spook01 at comcast.net>, <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] K & N air filters
Date: Sat, May 19, 2012 16:43


> Ah, but think of the hit a much larger company would take..

What much larger company? 

> I think you should turn them in and let attorneys parse their 
> ware touting.

No, no, it was your idea first.  You go right ahead and waste your time, I'd
rather enjoy my Triumph.

-- Randall  

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat May 19 16:25:00 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 19 May 2012 15:25:00 -0700
Subject: [TR] K & N air filters
In-Reply-To: <21.C7.05737.1F618BF4@cdptpa-mxlb.mail.rr.com>
References: <21.C7.05737.1F618BF4@cdptpa-mxlb.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <11b901cd360e$3b0ea530$0601a8c0@randall>

> You should report them if you truly think they are 
> engaging in false advertising.

No, I did NOT say that.  What I said was that I believe, on the information
I have, that they let more dirt through than the average paper element
filter.  I am still waiting for you to present ANY evidence to the contrary.

> You are obviously emotionally invested in your opinion on 
> paper filters;

No more than you are in your opinion of K&N.

> My guess is that one might gain 2 HP on these cars with a k&n 
> simply because the early filters have such little resistance. 

Which is remarkably similar to what I said.  But then how much do you lose
due to advanced piston ring wear?

>  Every little bit helps!

Depends on your goals.  My goal is a reliable car I can drive every day for
a long time.  If sacrificing 2hp buys me another 30,000 miles without
replacing the rings, I'm good with that.  If it was a race car, I would feel
differently (and might well run K&N filters if I ran any filter at all).
But I would also be changing the rings every hundred miles or so.

> Did the engines need re building every 10,000 miles?  Of course not.

Uhm, just how many miles have you driven a TR3 with those screen filters, in
a dusty environment?  I particularly like the comment in the owner's manual
about "excessive" oil consumption being one gallon (Imperial presumably) per
thousand miles.

> So, we worry about trapping bits one third the size of the things rattling
around in the oil system?

Dunno about you, but I don't put in dirty oil, while the air is already
dirty.  And oil filters do remove particles smaller than 15 microns, just at
a lower percentage.  Since they get many, many passes at the oil, they don't
need to be as efficient to remove  the dirt.  In fact, the early TR3s used a
bypass oil filter and fed the mains with oil directly from the pump.

-- Randall  

From spook01 at comcast.net  Sat May 19 17:09:14 2012
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Sat, 19 May 2012 18:09:14 -0500
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?K_=26_N_air_filters?=
Message-ID: <mailman.5.1337468915.22192.triumphs@autox.team.net>

Below.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Randall" <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: <spook01 at comcast.net>, <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] K & N air filters
Date: Sat, May 19, 2012 17:25
> You should report them if you truly think they are 
> engaging in false advertising.

No, I did NOT say that.  What I said was that I believe, on the information
I have, that they let more dirt through than the average paper element
filter. +you certainly inferred at the least.  What is an "average" paper filter? I am still waiting for you to present ANY evidence to the contrary.

> You are obviously emotionally invested in your opinion on 
> paper filters;

No more than you are in your opinion of K&N.
+depending on application, I use either.  Some of my cars have no filter at all.
> My guess is that one might gain 2 HP on these cars with a k&n 
> simply because the early filters have such little resistance. 

Which is remarkably similar to what I said.  But then how much do you lose
due to advanced piston ring wear?+advanced piston ring wear?
>  Every little bit helps!

Depends on your goals.  My goal is a reliable car I can drive every day for
a long time.  If sacrificing 2hp buys me another 30,000 miles without
replacing the rings, I'm good with that.  If it was a race car, I would feel
differently (and might well run K&N filters if I ran any filter at all).
But I would also be changing the rings every hundred miles or so.

> Did the engines need re building every 10,000 miles?  Of course not.

Uhm, just how many miles have you driven a TR3 with those screen filters, in
a dusty environment?+my mg m type has no filter at all.  Niether does the mg pa. The engines lasted quite a while on the poor and unpaved roads of the thirties.  The little m type went over the alps and back in '33 with out requiring an engine rebuild.I'm not sure the original silver ghost had a filter!I particularly like the comment in the owner's manual
about "excessive" oil consumption being one gallon (Imperial presumably) per
thousand miles.+the jensen healey claimed a pint per four or six hundred. But that was because lotus pawned the undeveloped engine off on them.
> So, we worry about trapping bits one third the size of the things rattling
around in the oil system?

Dunno about you, but I don't put in dirty oil, while the air is already
dirty.  And oil filters do remove particles smaller than 15 microns, just at
a lower percentage.  Since they get many, many passes at the oil, they don't
need to be as efficient to remove  the dirt.  In fact, the early TR3s used a
bypass oil filter and fed the mains with oil directly from the pump.

-- Randall

From spook01 at comcast.net  Sat May 19 17:19:33 2012
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Sat, 19 May 2012 18:19:33 -0500
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?K_=26_N_air_filters?=
Message-ID: <mailman.6.1337469535.22192.triumphs@autox.team.net>

And the HP 1 oil filter is rated at 20 microns.  Go figure.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Randall" <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: <spook01 at comcast.net>, <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] K & N air filters
Date: Sat, May 19, 2012 17:25


> You should report them if you truly think they are 
> engaging in false advertising.

No, I did NOT say that.  What I said was that I believe, on the information
I have, that they let more dirt through than the average paper element
filter.  I am still waiting for you to present ANY evidence to the contrary.

> You are obviously emotionally invested in your opinion on 
> paper filters;

No more than you are in your opinion of K&N.

> My guess is that one might gain 2 HP on these cars with a k&n 
> simply because the early filters have such little resistance. 

Which is remarkably similar to what I said.  But then how much do you lose
due to advanced piston ring wear?

>  Every little bit helps!

Depends on your goals.  My goal is a reliable car I can drive every day for
a long time.  If sacrificing 2hp buys me another 30,000 miles without
replacing the rings, I'm good with that.  If it was a race car, I would feel
differently (and might well run K&N filters if I ran any filter at all).
But I would also be changing the rings every hundred miles or so.

> Did the engines need re building every 10,000 miles?  Of course not.

Uhm, just how many miles have you driven a TR3 with those screen filters, in
a dusty environment?  I particularly like the comment in the owner's manual
about "excessive" oil consumption being one gallon (Imperial presumably) per
thousand miles.

> So, we worry about trapping bits one third the size of the things rattling
around in the oil system?

Dunno about you, but I don't put in dirty oil, while the air is already
dirty.  And oil filters do remove particles smaller than 15 microns, just at
a lower percentage.  Since they get many, many passes at the oil, they don't
need to be as efficient to remove  the dirt.  In fact, the early TR3s used a
bypass oil filter and fed the mains with oil directly from the pump.

-- Randall  

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Sat May 19 17:45:54 2012
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Sat, 19 May 2012 19:45:54 -0400
Subject: [TR] Best way to sell a TR-3B ?
In-Reply-To: <BBB631523BE340F29ABB3484D711D0DC@Jameson6157>
References: <BBB631523BE340F29ABB3484D711D0DC@Jameson6157>
Message-ID: <55403EED94EF48FEBCAD113839C0B2A4@DCH6RFC1>

I'd be surprised the frame was "shot" without very significant body rot.  I
just bought a 1957 small-mouth which needed floors, sills, B posts, rear
valance and a trunk floor - but the frame was fine.  Why were you told this?

You'd get a lot more for a restorable car than a parts car.

Where are you located?  If you are anywhere near MI, I'd come take a look.

Andrew Uprichard
1968 TR250
1962 TR3B
1957 TR3

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Scott Jameson
Sent: Saturday, May 19, 2012 1:45 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Best way to sell a TR-3B ?

I've owned a TR-3B since the mid-90s and drove it occasionally, up until 4
or
5 years ago.  At that time, I took it to a local British car shop to see
about
having the battery tray replaced and was told the frame was shot.  Not too
surprising, as it was a northeast car originally, but certainly
disappointing.
The car has been sitting in my garage since then, while I've contemplated
doing a full restoration, and I now realize I don't have the time, money or
know how.

The car is mostly complete and appears largely unmodified.  It does have a
non-functioning electric fuel pump and doesn't currently run.  The engine
appears to be original, based on the BMIHT certificate, but I don't know if
it
was previously rebuilt.  I've also accumulated various parts, primarily from
TRF, along the way, such as a clutch, exhaust system, brake lines, etc.

My question is what's the best way to try to sell this car ?  I know about
eBay, but are there more specialized sites ?  I believe there's some value
in
it, even though it requires a full restoration.  I have enough emotional
attachment to the car to hope it could go to someone with the wherewithal to
restore it, as it seems a shame to lose one of these after 50 years.

Thanks for any advice or ideas,
Scott

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat May 19 17:45:51 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 19 May 2012 16:45:51 -0700
Subject: [TR] K & N air filters
In-Reply-To: <20120519230903.0F6232D03E3@autox.team.net>
References: <20120519230903.0F6232D03E3@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <11cf01cd3619$86780fb0$0601a8c0@randall>

> +you certainly inferred at the least. 

Ok, it's obvious you haven't been paying attention.  I said their
advertising was not false, you're the one that said it was.  They simply
don't claim that their filter removes more dirt (or even as much dirt) as
other filters.  They do claim they flow more air, and as I stated, I believe
that is true.  The test results I linked to showed the same thing.

Your arguments that clean air is not important don't seem persuasive to me
either.  I have seen a brand new Chevy 350 that was burning oil badly after
only 1000 miles or so through the western USA (Pike's Peak to Iowa City, IA)
with no air filter.  My current 350 with a good paper element filter is not
smoking at all after some 250,000 miles in similar conditions (and in spite
of all the sand damage).  It does make a difference.  

(Mine leaks more than I would like, just like my Triumphs, but I still get
over 2000 miles to the quart and no visible smoke.  It also passes smog test
every time, which would be impossible if it was burning any significant
amount of oil.)

BTW, what exactly is your connection to K&N?  My only connection is to a
major world-wide agricultural equipment manufacturer (Deere), who uses
mostly paper element filters in conjunction with various kinds of
prefilters.  Cost is relatively unimportant but long life is a major selling
point, so I have to believe that, if their engines would last longer with
K&N (or even produce more power with the same lifetime), they would be using
them.  But I have nothing to do with air filter selection (or anything else
relating to powertrain for that matter).

I'm done flogging this thread.  If you want to believe that K&N filters
remove more dirt, go right ahead.  I won't agree until I see some evidence
that they do.

-- Randall  

From tr6parts at charter.net  Sat May 19 18:16:20 2012
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore)
Date: Sat, 19 May 2012 20:16:20 -0400
Subject: [TR] Best way to sell a TR-3B ?
References: <BBB631523BE340F29ABB3484D711D0DC@Jameson6157>
Message-ID: <045E64EB8A2D4CB5A6A049A05FDAB12F@Alan>

TRF has a classified.
Theres also Auto Trader Classics, Hemmings, Craigs List,  Oddle.

Al

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Scott Jameson" <scott.jameson at swbell.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 19, 2012 1:45 PM
Subject: [TR] Best way to sell a TR-3B ?


> I've owned a TR-3B since the mid-90s and drove it occasionally, up until 4 
> or
> 5 years ago.  At that time, I took it to a local British car shop to see 
> about
> having the battery tray replaced and was told the frame was shot.  Not too
> surprising, as it was a northeast car originally, but certainly 
> disappointing.
> The car has been sitting in my garage since then, while I've contemplated
> doing a full restoration, and I now realize I don't have the time, money 
> or
> know how.
>
> The car is mostly complete and appears largely unmodified.  It does have a
> non-functioning electric fuel pump and doesn't currently run.  The engine
> appears to be original, based on the BMIHT certificate, but I don't know 
> if it
> was previously rebuilt.  I've also accumulated various parts, primarily 
> from
> TRF, along the way, such as a clutch, exhaust system, brake lines, etc.
>
> My question is what's the best way to try to sell this car ?  I know about
> eBay, but are there more specialized sites ?  I believe there's some value 
> in
> it, even though it requires a full restoration.  I have enough emotional
> attachment to the car to hope it could go to someone with the wherewithal 
> to
> restore it, as it seems a shame to lose one of these after 50 years.
>
> Thanks for any advice or ideas,
> Scott

From mbarre at juno.com  Sat May 19 18:33:07 2012
From: mbarre at juno.com (Matt)
Date: Sun, 20 May 2012 00:33:07 GMT
Subject: [TR] Best way to sell a TR-3B ?
Message-ID: <20120519.203307.32281.0@webmail12.vgs.untd.com>

VTR has classifieds too

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Al Salvatore" <tr6parts at charter.net>
To: "Scott Jameson" <scott.jameson at swbell.net>,  <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Best way to sell a TR-3B ?
Date: Sat, 19 May 2012 20:16:20 -0400

TRF has a classified.
Theres also Auto Trader Classics, Hemmings, Craigs List,  Oddle.

Al

----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Jameson" <scott.jameson at swbell.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 19, 2012 1:45 PM
Subject: [TR] Best way to sell a TR-3B ?


> I've owned a TR-3B since the mid-90s and drove it occasionally, up until 4
> or
> 5 years ago.  At that time, I took it to a local British car shop to see
> about
> having the battery tray replaced and was told the frame was shot.  Not too
> surprising, as it was a northeast car originally, but certainly
> disappointing.
> The car has been sitting in my garage since then, while I've contemplated
> doing a full restoration, and I now realize I don't have the time, money
> or
> know how.
>
> The car is mostly complete and appears largely unmodified.  It does have a
> non-functioning electric fuel pump and doesn't currently run.  The engine
> appears to be original, based on the BMIHT certificate, but I don't know
> if it
> was previously rebuilt.  I've also accumulated various parts, primarily
> from
> TRF, along the way, such as a clutch, exhaust system, brake lines, etc.
>
> My question is what's the best way to try to sell this car ?  I know about
> eBay, but are there more specialized sites ?  I believe there's some value
> in
> it, even though it requires a full restoration.  I have enough emotional
> attachment to the car to hope it could go to someone with the wherewithal
> to
> restore it, as it seems a shame to lose one of these after 50 years.
>
> Thanks for any advice or ideas,
> Scott

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From spook01 at comcast.net  Sat May 19 19:44:40 2012
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Sat, 19 May 2012 20:44:40 -0500
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?K_=26_N_air_filters?=
Message-ID: <mailman.7.1337478244.22192.triumphs@autox.team.net>

I own k&n.  I usually peruse the internet in order to mess with unbelievers..
My lawyers will be in contact with all of you.

Lol rof.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Randall" <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: <spook01 at comcast.net>, <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] K & N air filters
Date: Sat, May 19, 2012 18:45


> +you certainly inferred at the least. 

Ok, it's obvious you haven't been paying attention.  I said their
advertising was not false, you're the one that said it was.  They simply
don't claim that their filter removes more dirt (or even as much dirt) as
other filters.  They do claim they flow more air, and as I stated, I believe
that is true.  The test results I linked to showed the same thing.

Your arguments that clean air is not important don't seem persuasive to me
either.  I have seen a brand new Chevy 350 that was burning oil badly after
only 1000 miles or so through the western USA (Pike's Peak to Iowa City, IA)
with no air filter.  My current 350 with a good paper element filter is not
smoking at all after some 250,000 miles in similar conditions (and in spite
of all the sand damage).  It does make a difference.  

(Mine leaks more than I would like, just like my Triumphs, but I still get
over 2000 miles to the quart and no visible smoke.  It also passes smog test
every time, which would be impossible if it was burning any significant
amount of oil.)

BTW, what exactly is your connection to K&N?  My only connection is to a
major world-wide agricultural equipment manufacturer (Deere), who uses
mostly paper element filters in conjunction with various kinds of
prefilters.  Cost is relatively unimportant but long life is a major selling
point, so I have to believe that, if their engines would last longer with
K&N (or even produce more power with the same lifetime), they would be using
them.  But I have nothing to do with air filter selection (or anything else
relating to powertrain for that matter).

I'm done flogging this thread.  If you want to believe that K&N filters
remove more dirt, go right ahead.  I won't agree until I see some evidence
that they do.

-- Randall  

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Sun May 20 16:51:21 2012
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Sun, 20 May 2012 15:51:21 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Great Video I Made- Absolutely No LBC Content
Message-ID: <1337554281.80572.YahooMailRC@web83304.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     We recently spent a weekend on a dry lake bed towing up an antique 
sailplane behind a pickup truck. We gave about 50 rides for free. I made a video 
and posted it to youtube. I am sharing it with the various groups & forums I 
belong to. I hope that the listers enjoy it, even without dripping, rusting and 
sparking content.

         http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_VGGt2l0yuI

     
     Bill Brewer - Tehachapi
     1960 TR3A

From dave at ranteer.com  Sun May 20 20:59:33 2012
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Sun, 20 May 2012 21:59:33 -0500
Subject: [TR] spitfire part needed
Message-ID: <DF6CA44A7C774396B7E6F53F7E431F02@ranteer.local>

I know this is a long shot; even on ebay there is one listed but is the wrong
side.

I need the driver side seat track.  this would be the metal frame that bolts
to the floorpan and to which the seat attaches.

thanks!

From pethier at comcast.net  Sun May 20 22:31:25 2012
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 21 May 2012 04:31:25 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Where do I get Stag seat belt inertia reels?
In-Reply-To: <829898010.496344.1337159672514.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1267116752.88980.1337574685141.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Ordered from Paddock.  See pix:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/sets/72157629752653826/

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Mon May 21 05:40:05 2012
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Mon, 21 May 2012 07:40:05 -0400
Subject: [TR] spitfire part needed
In-Reply-To: <DF6CA44A7C774396B7E6F53F7E431F02@ranteer.local>
References: <DF6CA44A7C774396B7E6F53F7E431F02@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <4FBA2995.9040307@adelphia.net>

Dave,

Is the part the same as a late TR4/TR4A? If so I have a set.

Bob

On 05/20/2012 10:59 PM, Dave wrote:
> I know this is a long shot; even on ebay there is one listed but is the wrong
> side.
>
> I need the driver side seat track.  this would be the metal frame that bolts
> to the floorpan and to which the seat attaches.
>
> thanks!
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From dhungerf60 at live.com  Mon May 21 17:59:29 2012
From: dhungerf60 at live.com (Douglas Hungerford)
Date: Mon, 21 May 2012 19:59:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
Message-ID: <COL104-W345B4A1F53A79AD1A9DCCEA41D0@phx.gbl>

Make money in the Internet. We show you how it works
http://ledplus.com.tr/httpsz-cxw2.php?ohykgo=435





Tue, 22 May 2012 0:59:28
_______________
Aeronautics.The science of flying. jerrel afreda

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Mon May 21 18:13:11 2012
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Mon, 21 May 2012 19:13:11 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] Valve lash adjustment procedureTriumph TR6
Message-ID: <11172510.1048409.1337645591176.JavaMail.root@vznit170060>

I am trying to coordinate a british car shop to do a valve lash adjustment on my 1972 Triumph TR6.

After reviewing the procedure, and then reading some forum and the Buckeye Triumph site, I just want to get clarification.

Is it absolutely necessary for the car to be totally cold (some said 24 hours) before the adjustment is done, or is their no problem (if the people know what they are doing) with waiting a reasonable amount of time and then doing the adjustment?

I have had the car many years and do not think this has been done for many years.

Any input appreciated.

Craig 
1972 Triumph TR6
Vienna, VA

From mark at bradakis.com  Mon May 21 19:07:13 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Mon, 21 May 2012 19:07:13 -0600
Subject: [TR] Valve lash adjustment procedureTriumph TR6
In-Reply-To: <11172510.1048409.1337645591176.JavaMail.root@vznit170060>
References: <11172510.1048409.1337645591176.JavaMail.root@vznit170060>
Message-ID: <4FBAE6C1.306@bradakis.com>

Drop it off at the shop in the morning, have them do it in the afternoon 
and pick
it that evening.  Waiting 24 hours is not necessary, in my opinion.

Maybe someday I'll measure the clearance on a warm engine that comes in,
then again the next morning, see if there is any significant difference.

mjb.

From rbtr3a at cox.net  Mon May 21 19:54:04 2012
From: rbtr3a at cox.net (Ronnie Babbitt)
Date: Mon, 21 May 2012 21:54:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] Calling a  chemistry  teacher
Message-ID: <ECFE7A91-56B8-4648-9891-76976997DEE8@cox.net>

Daughter needs help with chem problem.  Any chem teachers out there 


Ronnie

From aljlthomson at charter.net  Mon May 21 20:10:02 2012
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson)
Date: Mon, 21 May 2012 22:10:02 -0400
Subject: [TR] Valve lash adjustment procedureTriumph TR6
In-Reply-To: <11172510.1048409.1337645591176.JavaMail.root@vznit170060>
References: <11172510.1048409.1337645591176.JavaMail.root@vznit170060>
Message-ID: <007601cd37bf$ff9a5cc0$fecf1640$@charter.net>

I agree with Mark's suggestion. Here's another situation. Some engines, such
as older IH Farmalls, are listed with a hot clearance. That doesn't help
much on an engine being assembled for the first time. I used to find that a
cold adjustment with about 0.003" added to the hot spec. seemed to be just
about right.

Now, I wonder what we would have to do in an unheated garage in Siberia
during winter??

Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
thenicholls at verizon.net
Sent: Monday, May 21, 2012 8:13 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Valve lash adjustment procedureTriumph TR6

I am trying to coordinate a british car shop to do a valve lash adjustment
on my 1972 Triumph TR6.

After reviewing the procedure, and then reading some forum and the Buckeye
Triumph site, I just want to get clarification.

Is it absolutely necessary for the car to be totally cold (some said 24
hours) before the adjustment is done, or is their no problem (if the people
know what they are doing) with waiting a reasonable amount of time and then
doing the adjustment?

I have had the car many years and do not think this has been done for many
years.

Any input appreciated.

Craig 
1972 Triumph TR6
Vienna, VA

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Mon May 21 21:27:15 2012
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Mon, 21 May 2012 20:27:15 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Aluminum Radiators
Message-ID: <1337657235.19493.YahooMailRC@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     I was just checking out an aluminum radiator offered on Ebay and was 
wondering if anyone knows if they are any good. It is pretty inexpensive at 
$299. I had my modified radiator (high efficiency core with no crank hole) 
recored about 10 years ago and am thinking about upgrading next time it needs to 
be rodded out.

     
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HI-PERF-56MM-ALUMINUM-ALLOY-RADIATOR-TRIUMPH-TR2-TR3-TR3A-TR3B-MT-/261027253434?_trksid=m7&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D3%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D8586468922649076480


     TIA,

     Bill in Tehachapi

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Tue May 22 09:02:22 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Tue, 22 May 2012 08:02:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Aluminum Radiators
In-Reply-To: <1337657235.19493.YahooMailRC@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <1337657235.19493.YahooMailRC@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1337698942.62419.YahooMailNeo@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Bill
i think the better thing to do is install a 14" electric fan.
took care
of all my problems.
buddy has one of those ebay aluminum radiators. runs a 12"
electric fan, but really needs the 14"
Frank 
in Temecula CA

From: William
Brewer <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Sent:
Monday, May 21, 2012 8:27 PM
Subject: [TR] TR3 Aluminum Radiators

    I was
just checking out an aluminum radiator offered on Ebay and was 
wondering if
anyone knows if they are any good. It is pretty inexpensive at 
$299. I had my
modified radiator (high efficiency core with no crank hole) 
recored about 10
years ago and am thinking about upgrading next time it needs to 
be rodded
out.

   
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HI-PERF-56MM-ALUMINUM-ALLOY-RADIATOR-TRIUMPH-TR2-TR3-
TR3A-TR3B-MT-/261027253434?_trksid=m7&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%
3D3%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D8586468922649076480


    TIA,

    Bill in
Tehachapi

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue May 22 10:46:59 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 22 May 2012 09:46:59 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Aluminum Radiators
In-Reply-To: <1337657235.19493.YahooMailRC@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <1337657235.19493.YahooMailRC@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <010e01cd383a$824dd550$86e97ff0$@rr.com>

> I had my modified radiator (high efficiency core with no crank
> hole)
> recored about 10 years ago and am thinking about upgrading next time it
> needs to
> be rodded out.

I'm not convinced that aluminum represents an upgrade.  It does not conduct
heat as well as copper, plus isn't as strong so it has to be thicker.  It
also corrodes easier and is harder to repair.  

Its main advantage seems to be that it is cheaper.  If you already have a
usable modern copper core, I'd stick with that.  My old one wasn't usable,
but I went with a new copper one anyway even though it cost a bit more.

-- Randall 

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Tue May 22 10:59:54 2012
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh)
Date: Tue, 22 May 2012 09:59:54 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Aluminum Radiators
In-Reply-To: <010e01cd383a$824dd550$86e97ff0$@rr.com>
References: <1337657235.19493.YahooMailRC@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<010e01cd383a$824dd550$86e97ff0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <3D3C4D39-DCC9-4319-B76B-7466846ED3D6@comcast.net>

Interesting, my aluminum radiator is exactly the same size as the original
Aluminum IS stronger than copper, and DOES cool better, and. Is CERTAINLY not
cheaper, does NOT corrode more if properly maintained, so just where all of
R's "facts" come from?

Sent from my iPad

On May 22, 2012, at 9:46 AM, "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

>> I had my modified radiator (high efficiency core with no crank
>> hole)
>> recored about 10 years ago and am thinking about upgrading next time it
>> needs to
>> be rodded out.
>
> I'm not convinced that aluminum represents an upgrade.  It does not conduct
> heat as well as copper, plus isn't as strong so it has to be thicker.  It
> also corrodes easier and is harder to repair.
>
> Its main advantage seems to be that it is cheaper.  If you already have a
> usable modern copper core, I'd stick with that.  My old one wasn't usable,
> but I went with a new copper one anyway even though it cost a

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Tue May 22 11:16:03 2012
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Tue, 22 May 2012 10:16:03 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Aluminum Radiators
In-Reply-To: <010e01cd383a$824dd550$86e97ff0$@rr.com>
References: <1337657235.19493.YahooMailRC@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<010e01cd383a$824dd550$86e97ff0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <4FBBC9D3.2060000@gmail.com>

On 5/22/12 9:46 AM, Randall wrote:
> I'm not convinced that aluminum represents an upgrade. It does not 
> conduct heat as well as copper, plus isn't as strong so it has to be 
> thicker. It also corrodes easier and is harder to repair. Its main 
> advantage seems to be that it is cheaper. If you already have a usable 
> modern copper core, I'd stick with that.

OK.

Thermal Conductivity is the quantity of heat transmitted, due to unit 
temperature gradient, in unit time under steady conditions in a 
direction normal to a surface of unit area.   This changes with 
temperature.(Btu/(hr degrees F)


Metal - Degrees F - BTU/(hr degrees F)   Higher means better conductivity

Copper - 68 - 223
Aluminum - 68 - 118
Yellow brass - 68 - 67
Copper brass (70% Cu, 30% Zi) - 68 - 64
Cast iron - 68 - 27 to 46

Aluminum radiators do last longer with with a sacrificial zinc rod, anti 
freeze formulated for aluminum & distilled water.

Do you have a pure copper radiator with pure copper rods?

Teriann

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Tue May 22 11:37:39 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Tue, 22 May 2012 10:37:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Aluminum Radiators
In-Reply-To: <4FBBC9D3.2060000@gmail.com>
References: <1337657235.19493.YahooMailRC@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<010e01cd383a$824dd550$86e97ff0$@rr.com> <4FBBC9D3.2060000@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1337708259.80485.YahooMailNeo@web120201.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

my crystal ball sees a Mr. Wizard science class in our future. :-)
 
i have
always contended that the heat transfer on black painted copper radiators
belongs to the combination of the copper alloy (whatever that is) and the
black paint applied over top.
 
Frank

From: TeriAnn J. Wakeman
<tjwakeman at gmail.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2012
10:16 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Aluminum Radiators

On 5/22/12 9:46 AM, Randall
wrote:
> I'm not convinced that aluminum represents an upgrade. It does not
conduct heat as well as copper, plus isn't as strong so it has to be thicker.
It also corrodes easier and is harder to repair. Its main advantage seems to
be that it is cheaper. If you already have a usable modern copper core, I'd
stick with that.

OK.

Thermal Conductivity is the quantity of heat
transmitted, due to unit temperature gradient, in unit time under steady
conditions in a direction normal to a surface of unit area.  This changes with
temperature.(Btu/(hr degrees F)


Metal - Degrees F - BTU/(hr degrees F) 
Higher means better conductivity

Copper - 68 - 223
Aluminum - 68 - 118
Yellow
brass - 68 - 67
Copper brass (70% Cu, 30% Zi) - 68 - 64
Cast iron - 68 - 27 to
46

Aluminum radiators do last longer with with a sacrificial zinc rod, anti
freeze formulated for aluminum & distilled water.

Do you have a pure copper
radiator with pure copper rods?

Teriann

** triumphs at autox.team.net **
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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue May 22 11:49:22 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 22 May 2012 10:49:22 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Aluminum Radiators
In-Reply-To: <4FBBC9D3.2060000@gmail.com>
References: <1337657235.19493.YahooMailRC@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<010e01cd383a$824dd550$86e97ff0$@rr.com> <4FBBC9D3.2060000@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <012201cd3843$391b57f0$ab5207d0$@rr.com>

> Do you have a pure copper radiator with pure copper rods?

Probably not, although I didn't submit it for quantitative analysis.

But I'll bet you don't have a pure aluminum radiator, either.  Aluminum is
pretty much always alloyed with things like silicon and iron.

> Aluminum radiators do last longer with with a sacrificial zinc rod, anti 
> freeze formulated for aluminum & distilled water.

So does copper.  You forgot to mention having to keep the antifreeze and
sacrificial anode changed on schedule, not parking it in a barn and
forgetting about it.

-- Randall 

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Tue May 22 12:01:17 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Tue, 22 May 2012 11:01:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Aluminum Radiators
In-Reply-To: <012201cd3843$391b57f0$ab5207d0$@rr.com>
References: <1337657235.19493.YahooMailRC@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<010e01cd383a$824dd550$86e97ff0$@rr.com> <4FBBC9D3.2060000@gmail.com>
	<012201cd3843$391b57f0$ab5207d0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <1337709677.12508.YahooMailNeo@web120201.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

and i stand by my earlier suggestion that the key to keeping cool is moving
lots of air through the radiator. copper or aluminum.
big electric fans, cant
beat em!
Frank

From: Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To:
triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2012 10:49 AM
Subject: Re:
[TR] TR3 Aluminum Radiators

> Do you have a pure copper radiator with pure
copper rods?

Probably not, although I didn't submit it for quantitative
analysis.

But I'll bet you don't have a pure aluminum radiator, either. 
Aluminum is
pretty much always alloyed with things like silicon and iron.

>
Aluminum radiators do last longer with with a sacrificial zinc rod, anti 
>
freeze formulated for aluminum & distilled water.

So does copper.  You forgot
to mention having to keep the antifreeze and
sacrificial anode changed on
schedule, not parking it in a barn and
forgetting about it.

-- Randall 

**
triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue May 22 12:06:02 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 22 May 2012 11:06:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Aluminum Radiators
In-Reply-To: <3D3C4D39-DCC9-4319-B76B-7466846ED3D6@comcast.net>
References: <1337657235.19493.YahooMailRC@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<010e01cd383a$824dd550$86e97ff0$@rr.com>
	<3D3C4D39-DCC9-4319-B76B-7466846ED3D6@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <012301cd3845$8d0d9970$a728cc50$@rr.com>

> Aluminum IS stronger than copper, and DOES cool better, and. Is
> CERTAINLY not
> cheaper, does NOT corrode more if properly maintained, so just where
> all of
> R's "facts" come from?

Hokay, fine.  Here's just one reference, showing the current price for
copper is over 3 TIMES the price of aluminum.
http://www.metalprices.com/
New prices are similar, I just didn't happen to find a reference with both
of them on the same page.

Aluminum cans do bring somewhat more at the local recycling place, because
of the deposit on the cans, but copper is still a lot higher.

Next time you have your thermostat housing off, take a look inside.  Note
how much of it has been corroded away over the years; likely it has pits
that are far deeper than the thickness of the radiator tanks.  When I bought
a previous 56 TR3 from a Texas cornfield, the Tstat housing was literally
corroded through, and yet the original radiator still held water.

TeriAnn has already supplied the figures on thermal conductivity; I'll let
you look up the numbers on tensile strength and so on.

-- Randall 

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Tue May 22 12:12:17 2012
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Tue, 22 May 2012 11:12:17 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Aluminum Radiators
In-Reply-To: <1337709677.12508.YahooMailNeo@web120201.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1337657235.19493.YahooMailRC@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<010e01cd383a$824dd550$86e97ff0$@rr.com> <4FBBC9D3.2060000@gmail.com>
	<012201cd3843$391b57f0$ab5207d0$@rr.com>
	<1337709677.12508.YahooMailNeo@web120201.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4FBBD701.3040206@gmail.com>

On 5/22/12 11:01 AM, Frank Fisher wrote:
> and i stand by my earlier suggestion that the key to keeping cool is moving
> lots of air through the radiator. copper or aluminum.
> big electric fans, cant
> beat em!
>
My vote is for a clean system, a hose from where the heater valve goes 
to the port where the other end of the water heater tubing goes and 
minimal clearance at the back of the water pump vanes.

Teriann

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Tue May 22 12:14:54 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Tue, 22 May 2012 11:14:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Aluminum Radiators
In-Reply-To: <4FBBD701.3040206@gmail.com>
References: <1337657235.19493.YahooMailRC@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<010e01cd383a$824dd550$86e97ff0$@rr.com> <4FBBC9D3.2060000@gmail.com>
	<012201cd3843$391b57f0$ab5207d0$@rr.com>
	<1337709677.12508.YahooMailNeo@web120201.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<4FBBD701.3040206@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1337710494.44580.YahooMailNeo@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

yes
that too
 

From: TeriAnn J. Wakeman <tjwakeman at gmail.com>
To:
triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2012 11:12 AM
Subject: Re:
[TR] TR3 Aluminum Radiators

On 5/22/12 11:01 AM, Frank Fisher wrote:
> and i
stand by my earlier suggestion that the key to keeping cool is moving
> lots
of air through the radiator. copper or aluminum.
> big electric fans, cant
>
beat em!
> 
My vote is for a clean system, a hose from where the heater valve
goes to the port where the other end of the water heater tubing goes and
minimal clearance at the back of the water pump vanes.

Teriann

**
triumphs at autox.team.net **

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Archive:
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From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Tue May 22 12:30:45 2012
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Tue, 22 May 2012 11:30:45 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Aluminum Radiators
In-Reply-To: <3D3C4D39-DCC9-4319-B76B-7466846ED3D6@comcast.net>
References: <1337657235.19493.YahooMailRC@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<010e01cd383a$824dd550$86e97ff0$@rr.com>
	<3D3C4D39-DCC9-4319-B76B-7466846ED3D6@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bEq-+4bPRyVQgDW2QdZGjQhoDLeqKsgMqjXWy7QTWUsXQ@mail.gmail.com>

On Tue, May 22, 2012 at 9:59 AM, William Pugh <anabil007 at comcast.net> wrote:
>
> Aluminum... DOES cool better...
>


Better than what?  If better than the 50 year-old radiator that it replaced
then I would expect so.

Just as some are amazed at  the braking improvement when they install
Toyota calipers, replacing an old original part with a new 'upgrade' may
give a misleading comparison.

G

From darrellw360 at mac.com  Tue May 22 12:45:16 2012
From: darrellw360 at mac.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Tue, 22 May 2012 18:45:16 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Aluminum Radiators
In-Reply-To: <CANzE1bEq-+4bPRyVQgDW2QdZGjQhoDLeqKsgMqjXWy7QTWUsXQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1d10f2a4-d370-68bd-ae02-9d20811d5bd4@me.com>

This is from Wizard Cooling's web site, so they could be biased, but they are
saying the advantage of aluminum is in the construction.
https://wizardcooling.com/topic/11-faq.aspx

Why are aluminum radiators better
than copper/brass?
It is true that Copper does dissipate heat better than
aluminum, but the benefits are in the design differences. Because aluminum is
much stronger than copper aluminum core manufactures are able to make the
tubes up to 1.50" wide, opposed to .50" wide for a copper tube. The benefit of
this extra tube width comes from the additional contact that is created
between the fins and the tubes, as there are less spaces or voids between the
tubes (due to a fewer amount of tubes). If you take a look at a cut away
section of copper brass radiator that is 2.25" thick, then multiply the number
of tubes in a row by the width of the tubes you will find that there is a
total of 1.50" of "contact" between the fins and the tubes on every row. Now,
do the same evaluation on a 2.25" aluminum core and you will find that there
is 2.0" of "contact". That is 33% more "contact" than the copper brass. This
is critical as the fins accomplish a large percentage of the heat dissipation.
The less contact between the fin and tubes, the less effective the fins.
Another benefit of the wider, aluminum, tubes is that a larger volume of
coolant is now placed inside the core, were the heat dissipation is occurring.
Between the additional contact between the fins and tubes, the additional
fluid in the core, and the additional contact between the fluid and the tubes
you can expect to see at least a 25% increase in the heat transfer
capabilities of an aluminum radiator over a copper/ brass of the same
thickness.

From triumphstag at gmail.com  Tue May 22 14:20:06 2012
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Tue, 22 May 2012 13:20:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] Superflex bushes - Is there an Australian supplier who'll ship
 to the US?
Message-ID: <CANLCLaGGwZT0K20ryArObTRdwsxqkyhzOuOLa4gjT21izp8xwA@mail.gmail.com>

Every web search search I do, points to a place in the  UK. Since these
bushes are made in Australia.
Is three a distributor / reteller out there that will ship to the  USA?

Sujit

-- 
Sujit Roy, Realtor

(408) 839-8359

From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Tue May 22 16:24:47 2012
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Tue, 22 May 2012 18:24:47 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 Aluminum Radiators
In-Reply-To: <1d10f2a4-d370-68bd-ae02-9d20811d5bd4@me.com>
References: <1d10f2a4-d370-68bd-ae02-9d20811d5bd4@me.com>
Message-ID: <6BBF65BA1EF74360B925F73DDDB302AA@UserTHINK>

Also look at this site
http://www.carolinarodshop.com/Store/Griffin/radiator_electrolysis.htm

I'm in the business and we see aluminum radiators ruined very quickly 
because of electrolysis as noted in this article. It's not as much of a 
concern with copper core radiators. All aluminum radiators are the worst. A 
friends went bad in a few months and wizard didn't warranty it.

If you go all aluminum be cautious and aware that this can occur. It's an 
expensive lesson.

JVV

-----Original Message----- 
From: Darrell Walker
Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2012 2:45 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Aluminum Radiators

This is from Wizard Cooling's web site, so they could be biased, but they 
are
saying the advantage of aluminum is in the construction.
https://wizardcooling.com/topic/11-faq.aspx

Why are aluminum radiators better
than copper/brass?
It is true that Copper does dissipate heat better than
aluminum, but the benefits are in the design differences. Because aluminum 
is
much stronger than copper aluminum core manufactures are able to make the
tubes up to 1.50" wide, opposed to .50" wide for a copper tube. The benefit 
of
this extra tube width comes from the additional contact that is created
between the fins and the tubes, as there are less spaces or voids between 
the
tubes (due to a fewer amount of tubes). If you take a look at a cut away
section of copper brass radiator that is 2.25" thick, then multiply the 
number
of tubes in a row by the width of the tubes you will find that there is a
total of 1.50" of "contact" between the fins and the tubes on every row. 
Now,
do the same evaluation on a 2.25" aluminum core and you will find that there
is 2.0" of "contact". That is 33% more "contact" than the copper brass. This
is critical as the fins accomplish a large percentage of the heat 
dissipation.
The less contact between the fin and tubes, the less effective the fins.
Another benefit of the wider, aluminum, tubes is that a larger volume of
coolant is now placed inside the core, were the heat dissipation is 
occurring.
Between the additional contact between the fins and tubes, the additional
fluid in the core, and the additional contact between the fluid and the 
tubes
you can expect to see at least a 25% increase in the heat transfer
capabilities of an aluminum radiator over a copper/ brass of the same
thickness.

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Tue May 22 17:10:08 2012
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Tue, 22 May 2012 19:10:08 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR2 update - and balls of steel wool in the distributor - part
 one.
Message-ID: <CANhzkeNu5cjj8KHYnNhpY0afFQVp4_F6xKXz-+bghvRty9D9sQ@mail.gmail.com>

Hi All -  The urgent TR4 issues are behind me - at least for now. It's
running great and we had a really good time at the show the NC MG car club
put on.

Today I pulled the dizzy cap off the TR2 and had what looked like a mouse
nest of steel wool in there - The crappy rotor was falling apart - but it
was brass so that was not it.  I took the thing apart and I think a washer
or screw fell down inside and got ground up - I see no evidence of any
interference after taking it apart and cleaning it completely.

 So we made it to the show. In hindsight, I should not have taken the TR2
to the show - it was just not ready - but after all that effort - I was on
a bender to make it there.  The only electrics that worked were the brake
lights and the electric fan - the ignition was hot wired. Generator was
functioning only as a tensioner for the water pump. Some of the carpet was
in place - the rest of the the floor was painted flat black - and we did
not have a top or a tonneau.  I was exhausted and not thinking right. The
starter was sometimes working and sometimes just making a pleasant whirring
sound. But from 10 feet - it looked darn good.  I packed what tools I could
still find and two fire extingushers and we headed out.

The TR2 made it to and back from the Gathering at Shelton Vineyards - there
were well over 300 british cars there.   On the way - the hood decided it
would not stay latched; A bit later,  I had one of those oh crap thoughts
and stopped to check the generator mounts and both bolts were almost all
the way out - 45 mins and several burns later - we were back on the road.
 Since we were so late, we abandoned the plan to caravan with the group and
set out on our own and promptly the car appeared to overheat in
retaliation.  Pulled into McDonalds and did a static timing exercise and
decided to skip the back roads and go full interstate for the 3 hours of
the trip that remained.  On the way we hooked up with a good friend of mine
and we made the rest of the trip in good shape - we ran about 70 miles an
hour most of the way - not bad for a beast that had not run more than a
couple miles from home prior to this. I did manage a few grins when folks
gave us the thumbs up.

 The car tracked really well on the road - I took the 4 inch rims and
retired them for 4.5 inch rims.  After I re-bushed the front end, I made a
jig out of plywood (think wide c-clamp) to set toe in enough to drive it to
get it aligned - but did not have a chance to get the alignment - I'm sure
it will be better when I get it aligned properly - but I was really happy
with the way the car tracked on the interstate.

Still ran hot - at least according to the guage - but never got above 210
degrees. I have one of those infrared thermometers for my pizza oven - I'll
use that to verify next time I run it.

From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Tue May 22 17:26:57 2012
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Tue, 22 May 2012 19:26:57 -0400
Subject: [TR] Brain Freeze?
Message-ID: <BD282811FB424ECC863DDABE7C8BD560@AlexPC>

Anyone have the name of the guys in NY making new TR3 frames.
Thx,
Alex Manzo
59 TR3A

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Tue May 22 17:30:11 2012
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Tue, 22 May 2012 16:30:11 -0700
Subject: [TR] Brain Freeze?
In-Reply-To: <BD282811FB424ECC863DDABE7C8BD560@AlexPC>
References: <BD282811FB424ECC863DDABE7C8BD560@AlexPC>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bHPsTbq97-v8Zo_5oX+31hs-9FyraOr3q9igyy6-ZXJmA@mail.gmail.com>

Ratco -- but as I recall their URL has some non-intuiitive spelling or
hyphenation.

G

On Tue, May 22, 2012 at 4:26 PM, Alex <ambritts at bellsouth.net> wrote:

> Anyone have the name of the guys in NY making new TR3 frames.
> Thx,
> Alex Manzo
> 59 TR3A
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Tue May 22 17:32:22 2012
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Tue, 22 May 2012 16:32:22 -0700
Subject: [TR] Brain Freeze?
In-Reply-To: <CANzE1bHPsTbq97-v8Zo_5oX+31hs-9FyraOr3q9igyy6-ZXJmA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BD282811FB424ECC863DDABE7C8BD560@AlexPC>
	<CANzE1bHPsTbq97-v8Zo_5oX+31hs-9FyraOr3q9igyy6-ZXJmA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bFnm1+9ZxXOdeRopm4YXMZabe1QBszAf2EnDKv-56GMnA@mail.gmail.com>

Okay, the website:  Ratco <http://www.sites.google.com/site/tonyratco/>



On Tue, May 22, 2012 at 4:30 PM, Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com> wrote:

> Ratco -- but as I recall their URL has some non-intuiitive spelling or
> hyphenation.
>
> G
>
> On Tue, May 22, 2012 at 4:26 PM, Alex <ambritts at bellsouth.net> wrote:
>
>> Anyone have the name of the guys in NY making new TR3 frames.
>> Thx,
>> Alex Manzo
>> 59 TR3A
>>
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com

From gpr at key-men.com  Tue May 22 17:37:44 2012
From: gpr at key-men.com (George Richardson)
Date: Tue, 22 May 2012 19:37:44 -0400
Subject: [TR] Brain Freeze?
In-Reply-To: <BD282811FB424ECC863DDABE7C8BD560@AlexPC>
References: <BD282811FB424ECC863DDABE7C8BD560@AlexPC>
Message-ID: <4FBC2348.8080202@key-men.com>

Ratco.

http://www.sites.google.com/site/tonyratco/

I've got one of Tonys TR6 frames. A beautiful piece of work.

George Richardson
Key Men - Keys for Classics
www.key-men.com


On 5/22/2012 7:26 PM, Alex wrote:
> Anyone have the name of the guys in NY making new TR3 frames.
> Thx,
> Alex Manzo
> 59 TR3A
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/gpr at key-men.com

From aljlthomson at charter.net  Tue May 22 17:50:50 2012
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson)
Date: Tue, 22 May 2012 19:50:50 -0400
Subject: [TR] Brain Freeze?
In-Reply-To: <4FBC2348.8080202@key-men.com>
References: <BD282811FB424ECC863DDABE7C8BD560@AlexPC>
	<4FBC2348.8080202@key-men.com>
Message-ID: <000301cd3875$b7671e50$26355af0$@charter.net>

My brother bought a TR-6 frame from them, as well. Absolutely amazing!

Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of George Richardson
Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2012 7:38 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Brain Freeze?

Ratco.

http://www.sites.google.com/site/tonyratco/

I've got one of Tonys TR6 frames. A beautiful piece of work.

George Richardson
Key Men - Keys for Classics
www.key-men.com


On 5/22/2012 7:26 PM, Alex wrote:
> Anyone have the name of the guys in NY making new TR3 frames.
> Thx,
> Alex Manzo
> 59 TR3A
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/gpr at key-men.com

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net

From stan.foster at hp.com  Tue May 22 18:39:55 2012
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT))
Date: Wed, 23 May 2012 00:39:55 +0000
Subject: [TR] Brain Freeze?
In-Reply-To: <BD282811FB424ECC863DDABE7C8BD560@AlexPC>
References: <BD282811FB424ECC863DDABE7C8BD560@AlexPC>
Message-ID: <A048F19A074BE54BA1D9E4B8A2A7D88B2E9B704B@G1W3650.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Ratco

http://www.sites.google.com/site/tonyratco/



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Alex
Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2012 7:27 PM
To: *Triumphs List
Subject: [TR] Brain Freeze?

Anyone have the name of the guys in NY making new TR3 frames.
Thx,
Alex Manzo
59 TR3A

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Wed May 23 08:42:22 2012
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Wed, 23 May 2012 10:42:22 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR2 distributor metal shavings resolved
Message-ID: <CANhzkePwjr-3ky0miW5Zx7mppkTripa0VGJMsnmS8NpDs_Ucbg@mail.gmail.com>

Looks like there are still a few of those bad rotors out there.

Yep - the rotor is missing a rivet and I imagine it was machined up quite
nicely by the whirling bits under the point plate.

Tore it down completely, cleaned it up and gave it a good lube before
reassembly.  There were a ton of filings in there as the distributor
housing is softer than the rivet and it took a beating.

All is good and running well. With all the shavings that were around the
points - I'm amazed the car still ran.

Chris

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Wed May 23 09:14:51 2012
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Wed, 23 May 2012 11:14:51 -0400
Subject: [TR] 10. Brain Freeze?
In-Reply-To: <mailman.642.1337729499.22195.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.642.1337729499.22195.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAJL2xS8Qce5OmzH6VzgCDbfCgAAAEAAAALZrk0fl3JxKg8x3mVarF4cBAAAAAA==@optonline.net>

http://www.sites.google.com/site/tonyratco/frames 
Alex, Here it is.
Regards,
Bob

"Anyone have the name of the guys in NY making new TR3 frames.
Thx,
Alex Manzo
59 TR3A"

From tr3 at roadrunner.com  Sun May 20 23:25:29 2012
From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (Hdefer)
Date: Sun, 20 May 2012 22:25:29 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A Turn Signals: The Saga Continues
In-Reply-To: <8833c771bf3f0701e90f284b00396096.squirrel@email.accountsupport.com>
References: <E2E753AC-8A33-4AE9-85DB-25A2471780A9@vaxxine.com>
	<8833c771bf3f0701e90f284b00396096.squirrel@email.accountsupport.com>
Message-ID: <4ACBE065-1767-4FAA-92C4-31FC892956DA@roadrunner.com>

Greg,
The attached doc helped me a lot.

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type multipart/appledouble]
Hans

On May 16, 2012, at 2:24 AM, greg at gelhar.com wrote:

>> I need some advice about the operation of the mechanism which is
> supposed to
>> cancel the turn signal once the steering wheel has
> been returned to the straight ahead position.
>>
> Dave,
>
> Check this out
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/msword  
> which had a name of Cancelling Action.doc]
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ 
> tr3 at roadrunner.com

From agraham at execulink.com  Wed May 23 10:41:36 2012
From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham)
Date: Wed, 23 May 2012 12:41:36 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 body fit & adjustment
Message-ID: <4FBD1340.50600@execulink.com>

Hello List:
Trying for a better fit on some of my body panels on my '2. I did have 
the body off and fitted a new mounting kit. Had the usual fiddling 
problems with door fit & some seams but now stumped on the rear trunk 
area. When fitting the new body mount kit, I made sure that the rear 
bumper bolts would go through the frame and used this as a reference 
point. However, my trunk opening seems to have 'shrunk', with the trunk 
lid sitting very high right in the center by the lock. Not even close to 
being able to close the lid, even without the weather stripping.
Wondering if I cranked down on the rear most body mounts to see if this 
might open the trunk opening and allow the lid to fit a bit better. Any 
hints on aligning this opening, especially after the rear bumper long 
bolts are installed?
Thanks for any help with this one.
Angelo Graham

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Thu May 24 08:13:05 2012
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Thu, 24 May 2012 10:13:05 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 body fit & adjustment
In-Reply-To: <4FBD1340.50600@execulink.com>
References: <4FBD1340.50600@execulink.com>
Message-ID: <C2BD91A9533D490693C8E39AD1BDB682@DCH6RFC1>

Angelo:  

When the body was off the frame did you put in new floors or other body
panels?  If you fitted a new rear valance, the alignment can easily be
compromised.  If not, then it may be down to the mounting kit.  Did you keep
the old spacers when you removed the body?  One of my cars had twice as many
spacers on one side than the other - when I went to put it back, nothing
fitted until I realized this.

I guess the order of importance is (1) secure the body on the frame at the
rear,(2) do whatever is needed to get the trunk to fit (including cranking
down), (3) worry about the bumper bolts later - they can always be worked to
fit.

Andrew Uprichard
Just put the body of TS19652 back on the frame last week.

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Angelo Graham
Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2012 12:42 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 body fit & adjustment

Hello List:
Trying for a better fit on some of my body panels on my '2. I did have 
the body off and fitted a new mounting kit. Had the usual fiddling 
problems with door fit & some seams but now stumped on the rear trunk 
area. When fitting the new body mount kit, I made sure that the rear 
bumper bolts would go through the frame and used this as a reference 
point. However, my trunk opening seems to have 'shrunk', with the trunk 
lid sitting very high right in the center by the lock. Not even close to 
being able to close the lid, even without the weather stripping.
Wondering if I cranked down on the rear most body mounts to see if this 
might open the trunk opening and allow the lid to fit a bit better. Any 
hints on aligning this opening, especially after the rear bumper long 
bolts are installed?
Thanks for any help with this one.
Angelo Graham

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net

From triosan at gmail.com  Thu May 24 11:41:48 2012
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley)
Date: Thu, 24 May 2012 10:41:48 -0700
Subject: [TR] Close ratio TR 4-6 gearbox??
Message-ID: <CAMc4sNDSCGjgUVfWKjbyrqtKMPw1BiA0O34eqOsdC5RVQP01Zw@mail.gmail.com>

Anyone have a 4 speed gear box with the Dolomite Sprint close ratio gear
set they  care to sell?
How about just the gear set?
How about just the third gears?

Lost 3rd gear in mine last weekend -- darn and it/I were running better
than we ever have

British Frame and Engine does not even know if they are available;
Quantumechanics has them on order for arrival in "a few weeks".
Rimmer brothers appears to have something in a gear set at a little over
$1000 [too much].
Racestorations sells the whole box, very expensive

Do not know of any other vendors [Wishbone Classics?? Anybody have an email
contact there?]


Thanks,
Chuck Arnold

From pat.l at comcast.net  Thu May 24 12:30:27 2012
From: pat.l at comcast.net (Pat Ledford)
Date: Thu, 24 May 2012 14:30:27 -0400
Subject: [TR] Close ratio TR 4-6 gearbox??
In-Reply-To: <CAMc4sNDSCGjgUVfWKjbyrqtKMPw1BiA0O34eqOsdC5RVQP01Zw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAMc4sNDSCGjgUVfWKjbyrqtKMPw1BiA0O34eqOsdC5RVQP01Zw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4FBE7E43.9080902@comcast.net>

Try Team Triumph, he will ship.

330-392-7176

On 5/24/2012 1:41 PM, Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley wrote:
> Anyone have a 4 speed gear box with the Dolomite Sprint close ratio gear
> set they  care to sell?
> How about just the gear set?
> How about just the third gears?
>
> Lost 3rd gear in mine last weekend -- darn and it/I were running better
> than we ever have
>
> British Frame and Engine does not even know if they are available;
> Quantumechanics has them on order for arrival in "a few weeks".
> Rimmer brothers appears to have something in a gear set at a little over
> $1000 [too much].
> Racestorations sells the whole box, very expensive
>
> Do not know of any other vendors [Wishbone Classics?? Anybody have an email
> contact there?]
>
>
> Thanks,
> Chuck Arnold
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pat.l at comcast.net

From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk  Thu May 24 15:32:35 2012
From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Thu, 24 May 2012 22:32:35 +0100 (BST)
Subject: [TR] Close ratio TR 4-6 gearbox??
In-Reply-To: <4FBE7E43.9080902@comcast.net>
References: <CAMc4sNDSCGjgUVfWKjbyrqtKMPw1BiA0O34eqOsdC5RVQP01Zw@mail.gmail.com>
	<4FBE7E43.9080902@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1337895155.76285.YahooMailNeo@web29401.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

Try Jigsaw Racing and the Triumph Dolomite Club - both in UK. Mark at Jigsaw
has a raft of stuff and the club itself has several people running parts
schemes


Jonmac

>Try Team Triumph, he will ship.
>
>330-392-7176
>
>On
5/24/2012 1:41 PM, Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley wrote:
>> Anyone have a
4 speed gear box with the Dolomite Sprint close ratio gear
>> set they  care
to sell?
>> How about just the gear set?
>> How about just the third gears?
>>
>> Lost 3rd gear in mine last weekend -- darn and it/I were running better
>>
than we ever have
>>
>> British Frame and Engine does not even know if they
are available;
>> Quantumechanics has them on order for arrival in "a few
weeks".
>> Rimmer brothers appears to have something in a gear set at a little
over
>> $1000 [too much].
>> Racestorations sells the whole box, very
expensive
>>
>> Do not know of any other vendors [Wishbone Classics?? Anybody
have an email
>> contact there?]
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Chuck Arnold
>>
>> **
triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pat.l at comcast.net
>
>**
triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk
>
>
>From: Pat Ledford <pat.l at comcast.net>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent:
Thursday, 24 May 2012, 19:30
Subject: Re: [TR] Close ratio TR 4-6 gearbox??

From ols at bcdef.net  Thu May 24 20:02:34 2012
From: ols at bcdef.net (Alexander Delis)
Date: Thu, 24 May 2012 22:02:34 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 OD Problem
Message-ID: <AAFB7C44-84AC-4407-8644-3B7A2E14B485@bcdef.net>

Hello all,

I have an odd (to me) problem with the overdrive on my TR3.

For a while when I would flip the OD switch while driving down the highway, it
takes a while before it goes into overdrive.

Today  it started to go in and out of overdrive, seemingly in when I
accelerate, and out when I take my foot off the accelerator.

Any help on this appreciated

TIA

Alex

1958 TR3 TS33884LO
1968 GT6 KC10303

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Thu May 24 20:04:27 2012
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Thu, 24 May 2012 19:04:27 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 OD Problem
In-Reply-To: <AAFB7C44-84AC-4407-8644-3B7A2E14B485@bcdef.net>
References: <AAFB7C44-84AC-4407-8644-3B7A2E14B485@bcdef.net>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bGCEWm6c0nQsxA1jjLJF_n88QxcuDosoHfHsRji5w3Azg@mail.gmail.com>

I assume the first thing you did was check the oil level?

Geo

On Thu, May 24, 2012 at 7:02 PM, Alexander Delis <ols at bcdef.net> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> I have an odd (to me) problem with the overdrive on my TR3.
>
> For a while when I would flip the OD switch while driving down the
> highway, it
> takes a while before it goes into overdrive.
>
> Today  it started to go in and out of overdrive, seemingly in when I
> accelerate, and out when I take my foot off the accelerator.
>
> Any help on this appreciated
>
> TIA
>
> Alex
>
> 1958 TR3 TS33884LO
> 1968 GT6 KC10303
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com

From levilevi at comcast.net  Thu May 24 20:36:55 2012
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Thu, 24 May 2012 20:36:55 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR3 OD Problem
In-Reply-To: <AAFB7C44-84AC-4407-8644-3B7A2E14B485@bcdef.net>
References: <AAFB7C44-84AC-4407-8644-3B7A2E14B485@bcdef.net>
Message-ID: <C50AA64C-2161-44F0-83E8-09199259B208@comcast.net>

Loose wire?  Maybe on the OD switch.  If you've had to tighten and  
retighten the nut that secures the switch to the escutcheon then you  
may have developed a break in the wire by the switch moving around.   
The car might jiggle the wire when you accelerate and  
decelerate...guess you should only accelerate. Or get out your solder  
gun.

BTW someone on the list suggested that a solder gun will work better  
if you loosen and tighten the holding nuts on the tips and it made a  
couple of my soldering guns work way better.  Thanks list.


Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net




On May 24, 2012, at 8:02 PM, Alexander Delis wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> I have an odd (to me) problem with the overdrive on my TR3.
>
> For a while when I would flip the OD switch while driving down the  
> highway, it
> takes a while before it goes into overdrive.
>
> Today  it started to go in and out of overdrive, seemingly in when I
> accelerate, and out when I take my foot off the accelerator.
>
> Any help on this appreciated
>
> TIA
>
> Alex
>
> 1958 TR3 TS33884LO
> 1968 GT6 KC10303
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net

From L1J1S at aol.com  Fri May 25 13:12:14 2012
From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 25 May 2012 15:12:14 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR- MGTC COMPETITION
Message-ID: <2ebb6.60ad152a.3cf1338d@aol.com>

List, sorry to bomb the list with a question not related to Triumphs, but i 
 need to find some information on a MGTC competion model. does anyone know 
of or  have any information on these special editions of the mg? happy 
memorial day  weekend. larry schwartz

From brad.kahler at 141.com  Fri May 25 15:07:13 2012
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Fri, 25 May 2012 17:07:13 -0400
Subject: [TR] Reflections
Message-ID: <CADm3DLF+99us1Y9Y0WOUrnpcgtSvmReuw3CfqM3Q7i+hoXPDbw@mail.gmail.com>

Today as I was standing in the line at the DMV office waiting my turn to
have the title paperwork processed for my TR4 I happened to glance the date
we bought the TR4, April 24th 2010  We bought from the Mark Joslyn estate
auction.  I got to thinking about all that I had been through trying to get
this car running again and titled and decided it was pretty appropriate
that the car was going to be on the road again just in time for Memorial
Day.  I thought that was a fitting tribute to Mark who was a pretty avid
Triumph nut, much like a lot of people on this list.

Mark had put the TR4 had been put in the shop for an engine rebuild way
back in 2002 and it sat there until Mark's passing in 2008.  After Mark's
passing his brother subsequently had the engine work completed and
installed in the car trying to ready it for the auction.  Unfortunately
the original manifold and carburetors disappeared over
the intervening years and so the car had to be sold as non-running.  Susan
and I bought the car and I rounded up the missing pieces to get the engine
running only to find that once I got it started it smoked really bad.  The
harder you stepped on the pedal the more it smoked.  At first I thought it
was steam so I replaced the head gasket.  That didn't solve the problem so
I pulled the head and had it checked for cracks but found that it was OK.
 I then realized that each piston was covered with a very large puddle of
oil which led me to think that the oil control rings were probably not
working.  So I bit the bullet and pulled the pistons out.  Yep I was right
the brand new pistons (and liners) had bad oil control rings.  I ended up
buying new Total Seal rings, de-glazed the cylinders and put everything
back together.  I'm happy to report there is no more smoking and now that
the paperwork has been processed I can finally drive the car, two years and
one month after buying the car.

I rather hope that Mark would be happy to know his old car is finally back
on the road.

Brad
1963 TR4 (among others!)

From rjones at wfeca.net  Fri May 25 15:15:54 2012
From: rjones at wfeca.net (Robert Jones)
Date: Fri, 25 May 2012 16:15:54 -0500
Subject: [TR] 6-Pack
Message-ID: <D7CF06A9-E0F9-4DD1-894D-BB897F32DDEA@wfeca.net>

Folks

I sent my dues in for 6-Pack in January.  Haven't heard anything to date and
no magazines.  Is this normal for them?  Does anyone know if they are still
active and publishing?

Thanks

From brad.kahler at 141.com  Fri May 25 15:36:30 2012
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Fri, 25 May 2012 17:36:30 -0400
Subject: [TR] Need new tires for TR4
Message-ID: <CADm3DLGROpQURhxze_WEya9m_2E5Z-E5hy3DRpK3yuLmLdjA0w@mail.gmail.com>

Now that the TR4 is drive-able I need to buy tires.  I think the original
size was 165/80R15 tires.  However I think the 165 tires were mainly for
the 4" and 4.5" rims, my rims are 5" wide.

I know this has probably been covered a million times on the list but
considering the meager choices for 165/80R15 tires now days I'd like to
know what tire sizes other listers are using successfully with 5" rims.

Keeping the speedometer close would be nice if possible.

Thanks!

Brad
1963 TR4

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Fri May 25 16:51:13 2012
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Fri, 25 May 2012 18:51:13 -0400
Subject: [TR] 6-Pack
In-Reply-To: <D7CF06A9-E0F9-4DD1-894D-BB897F32DDEA@wfeca.net>
References: <D7CF06A9-E0F9-4DD1-894D-BB897F32DDEA@wfeca.net>
Message-ID: <CFA70656B75A411B90BD5CD9F4C2D738@BobPC>

Hi Robert,
It might be best for you to sign in to the 6-Pack Forum (www.6-Pack.org) and 
ask Ashford Little the Membership Secretary the status of your membership. I 
can assure you that 6-Pack is alive and well and there have been two 
magazines sent out to members since January.

Bob


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
1975 TR6 with:
Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed
Nissan Diff & CVJs



-----Original Message----- 
From: Robert Jones
Sent: Friday, May 25, 2012 5:15 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] 6-Pack

Folks

I sent my dues in for 6-Pack in January.  Haven't heard anything to date and
no magazines.  Is this normal for them?  Does anyone know if they are still
active and publishing?

Thanks

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Fri May 25 16:51:49 2012
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Fri, 25 May 2012 18:51:49 -0400
Subject: [TR] 6-Pack
In-Reply-To: <D7CF06A9-E0F9-4DD1-894D-BB897F32DDEA@wfeca.net>
References: <D7CF06A9-E0F9-4DD1-894D-BB897F32DDEA@wfeca.net>
Message-ID: <4FC00D05.5030605@adelphia.net>

Bob,

The 6-Pack is alive and well. I received the last magazine about a month 
ago. I would post a message on the forum and someone will get back to 
you or send an email to the web master Alan. webmaster at 6-pack.org 
<mailto:webmaster at 6-pack.org>. Also you can log into 6 pack forum and 
check your status, when your subscription expires etc.

Bob.

On 05/25/2012 05:15 PM, Robert Jones wrote:
> Folks
>
> I sent my dues in for 6-Pack in January.  Haven't heard anything to date and
> no magazines.  Is this normal for them?  Does anyone know if they are still
> active and publishing?
>
> Thanks
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr at adelphia.net

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Fri May 25 16:53:52 2012
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Fri, 25 May 2012 18:53:52 -0400
Subject: [TR] 6-Pack
In-Reply-To: <D7CF06A9-E0F9-4DD1-894D-BB897F32DDEA@wfeca.net>
References: <D7CF06A9-E0F9-4DD1-894D-BB897F32DDEA@wfeca.net>
Message-ID: <4FC00D80.2040808@adelphia.net>

Bob,

You can also email the membership officer: Ashford Little email address: 
<http://www.6-pack.org/j15/index.php?option=com_contact&view=contact&id=2%3Aashford-little&catid=12%3Aclub-officers&Itemid=73> 
membership at 6-pack.org <mailto:membership at 6-pack.org>

Bob

  On 05/25/2012 05:15 PM, Robert Jones wrote:
> Folks
>
> I sent my dues in for 6-Pack in January.  Haven't heard anything to date and
> no magazines.  Is this normal for them?  Does anyone know if they are still
> active and publishing?
>
> Thanks
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr at adelphia.net

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri May 25 19:32:23 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 25 May 2012 18:32:23 -0700
Subject: [TR] Need new tires for TR4
In-Reply-To: <CADm3DLGROpQURhxze_WEya9m_2E5Z-E5hy3DRpK3yuLmLdjA0w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CADm3DLGROpQURhxze_WEya9m_2E5Z-E5hy3DRpK3yuLmLdjA0w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <01fd01cd3adf$672a5d00$0601a8c0@randall>

I don't use them any more, but I have used 185/65-15 on both 4.5" and 5.5"
rims.  They are a bit shorter than stock, make your speedo read about 5%
high (63 mph when you are only doing 60 mph); but there is a wide selection
of fairly high performance tires available in that size, many of them for a
very reasonable price.  For example, TireRack has Bridgestone Potenza G019
for $77/ea in that size, which they consider a "high performance all-season"
tire.

-- Randall  

From soknacki at soknacki.com  Sat May 26 08:21:52 2012
From: soknacki at soknacki.com (David Soknacki)
Date: Sat, 26 May 2012 10:21:52 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 stalling at idle
Message-ID: <411515FCDF0F4C5EB8215EF96AB4941D@Ecom.local>

Hi List!

Am I the only TR6 driver who turns off his engine when stopped at red lights
in hot weather? I do it because otherwise my engine sputters to a stall.
This happens only when the engine and ambient temperature are hot. I have a
stock engine, and have been using regular gas since I bought the car in
2003. 

My guess that the gas is boiling on its way to the carburetors. Is that
right?

I first thought that I might fix the problem by installing one of those
stainless heat shields next to the carburetors, but no luck.

So what to do?
- buy premium gas?
- put in a gas additive?
- wrapping or coating the manifold? 

Many thanks for your advice.

David Soknacki
74 TR6
CF22072U

From darrellw360 at mac.com  Sat May 26 08:36:16 2012
From: darrellw360 at mac.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Sat, 26 May 2012 07:36:16 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 stalling at idle
In-Reply-To: <411515FCDF0F4C5EB8215EF96AB4941D@Ecom.local>
References: <411515FCDF0F4C5EB8215EF96AB4941D@Ecom.local>
Message-ID: <D0560C46-39DF-4B94-B56F-8FFAEEB7FF4B@mac.com>

Hi David,

What is your normal idle speed?  Have you tried bumping it up a bit?

Is it hard to start after shutting it down?  I would think a fuel boiling issue would make restart very difficult.

-Darrell

-- 
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA

From wbeech at flash.net  Sat May 26 09:19:35 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Sat, 26 May 2012 10:19:35 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 stalling at idle
In-Reply-To: <D0560C46-39DF-4B94-B56F-8FFAEEB7FF4B@mac.com>
References: <411515FCDF0F4C5EB8215EF96AB4941D@Ecom.local>
	<D0560C46-39DF-4B94-B56F-8FFAEEB7FF4B@mac.com>
Message-ID: <F927669E-7D16-4754-A6E3-87F2188C6D70@flash.net>

David,
Your engine will continue to build heat after shutting in down.  If I am in
that situation, usually a parade, I will try to keep the revs up at 1500-2000
to get a little more coolant through the motor.

Sent from mobile Bill

On May 26, 2012, at 9:36 AM, Darrell Walker <darrellw360 at mac.com> wrote:

> Hi David,
>
> What is your normal idle speed?  Have you tried bumping it up a bit?
>
> Is it hard to start after shutting it down?  I would think a fuel boiling
issue would make restart very difficult.
>
> -Darrell
>
> --
> Darrell Walker
> 66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
> 81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
> Vancouver, WA, USA
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sat May 26 09:20:55 2012
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Sat, 26 May 2012 11:20:55 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 stalling at idle
In-Reply-To: <411515FCDF0F4C5EB8215EF96AB4941D@Ecom.local>
References: <411515FCDF0F4C5EB8215EF96AB4941D@Ecom.local>
Message-ID: <4FC0F4D7.3040304@adelphia.net>

David,

How hot is it outside?

  I have never experienced this problem on my 72. But I did install 
Hitachi SU HS6 carbs to avoid the diaphram problems with the ZS 175s. My 
idle is constant around 800 RPM no matter how cold or hot it is outside. 
Once I got the engine all set up last year, it has run like I would 
expect a rebuilt engine with new carbs and distributor.

Have you checked your diaphrams? Oil in the dampers? Timing? P.lug 
condition?

Bob

BTW, I use the midgrade 89 octane in all my Triumphs. On 05/26/2012 
10:21 AM, David Soknacki wrote:
> Hi List!
>
> Am I the only TR6 driver who turns off his engine when stopped at red lights
> in hot weather? I do it because otherwise my engine sputters to a stall.
> This happens only when the engine and ambient temperature are hot. I have a
> stock engine, and have been using regular gas since I bought the car in
> 2003.
>
> My guess that the gas is boiling on its way to the carburetors. Is that
> right?
>
> I first thought that I might fix the problem by installing one of those
> stainless heat shields next to the carburetors, but no luck.
>
> So what to do?
> - buy premium gas?
> - put in a gas additive?
> - wrapping or coating the manifold?
>
> Many thanks for your advice.
>
> David Soknacki
> 74 TR6
> CF22072U

From mhooper at indiefilmnet.com  Sat May 26 12:12:00 2012
From: mhooper at indiefilmnet.com (Mark Hooper)
Date: Sat, 26 May 2012 14:12:00 -0400
Subject: [TR] Dipstick level vs fuel gauge
In-Reply-To: <D7CF06A9-E0F9-4DD1-894D-BB897F32DDEA@wfeca.net>
Message-ID: <292a7f78.1cd3b6b.285443e6.44@indiefilmnet.com>

My TR6's fuel gauge is reading near zero, but the fuel level, based on the
height at which the fuel pipe drips when removed from the pump, seems higher.
I.e. the fuel level is near the base of the rotor cap, but the gauge reads
barely above empty.

Is there a chart of Fuel Tank contents versus dipstick measurement from the
tank cap in inches?

Mark Hooper
1972 TR6

From ghaynestr4 at aol.com  Sat May 26 12:19:09 2012
From: ghaynestr4 at aol.com (George Haynes)
Date: Sat, 26 May 2012 14:19:09 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR4 Tires
In-Reply-To: <mailman.20.1338055204.17808.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.20.1338055204.17808.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8CF09832DABD66D-738-3D83F@Webmail-d118.sysops.aol.com>

 Brad,
A good size for 15x5.0" wheels is 185/70R15.  It retains the original diameter
of the 165 with a wider section/tread width.  Vredestein makes a tire in that
size; you should be able to find others.
George

From rjones at wfeca.net  Sat May 26 18:41:55 2012
From: rjones at wfeca.net (Robert Jones)
Date: Sat, 26 May 2012 19:41:55 -0500
Subject: [TR] Brake light switch
Message-ID: <2C549160-E74F-492A-B2ED-FC971D1312E3@wfeca.net>

Does anyone have a good original round brake light switch for a TR6 they would
be willing to part with?
 I got one of the current square Lucas switches and it fell apart installing
it.  The round one lasted for 37 years.
Thanks

From mark at bradakis.com  Sat May 26 19:02:52 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sat, 26 May 2012 19:02:52 -0600
Subject: [TR] Brake light switch
In-Reply-To: <2C549160-E74F-492A-B2ED-FC971D1312E3@wfeca.net>
References: <2C549160-E74F-492A-B2ED-FC971D1312E3@wfeca.net>
Message-ID: <4FC17D3C.40908@bradakis.com>

If it doesn't offend your sensibilities, go to a Honda dealer and
get one for an '87 Civic Si.

mjb.

From bjzwissler at gmail.com  Sat May 26 19:16:03 2012
From: bjzwissler at gmail.com (Benjamin Zwissler)
Date: Sat, 26 May 2012 21:16:03 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 stalling at idle
Message-ID: <CAMHq6Zxz90s8acvUUyXVshSgdNkDan==nU7=uL5Sk4704bSfCA@mail.gmail.com>

You might be right, and you're on the right track, but my guess is the fuel
is boiling (or nearly) in the bowls themselves.  Check your float level
setting and if its not at the highest end of the specified range (making
for lowest fuel level in the bowl) set it there or maybe even a little
higher (lower bowl fuel level) if the setting it at the extreme end of the
range doesn't work.  If you change it much you may have to readjust your
jets to correct the mixture, a lower level in the bowl will mean a leaner
mixture.  Lowering the level in the bowl makes it harder for the fuel to
run run up through the jet and into the manifold.  Also, you could look at
replacing your carb insulating mounts with some of the newer ones
advertised to be better insulators than the old ones.  I had a friend who
did this with good results.

I've had this problem more with Strombergs than SUs (my experiences is on
TR4As), maybe the separate bowl on the SUs stays cooler, but don't really
know.  Regardless, if this doesn't work you're on the right track of
reducing heat to the fuel/carbs.

Ben......

Quoted Message:

Date: Sat, 26 May 2012 10:21:52 -0400
From: "David Soknacki" <soknacki at soknacki.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR6 stalling at idle
Message-ID: <
411515FCDF0F4C5EB8215EF96AB4941D at Ecom.local>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Hi List!

Am I the only TR6 driver who turns off his engine when stopped at red lights
in hot weather? I do it because otherwise my engine sputters to a stall.
This happens only when the engine and ambient temperature are hot. I have a
stock engine, and have been using regular gas since I bought the car in
2003.

My guess that the gas is boiling on its way to the carburetors. Is that
right?

I first thought that I might fix the problem by installing one of those
stainless heat shields next to the carburetors, but no luck.

So what to do?
- buy premium gas?
- put in a gas additive?
- wrapping or coating the manifold?

Many thanks for your advice.

David Soknacki
74 TR6
CF22072U

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat May 26 20:28:50 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 26 May 2012 19:28:50 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 stalling at idle
In-Reply-To: <411515FCDF0F4C5EB8215EF96AB4941D@Ecom.local>
References: <411515FCDF0F4C5EB8215EF96AB4941D@Ecom.local>
Message-ID: <030d01cd3bb0$743d26e0$0601a8c0@randall>

> I first thought that I might fix the problem by installing 
> one of those
> stainless heat shields next to the carburetors, but no luck.

If adding a heat shield made no difference, then I suspect you have some
other problem.  I'd be looking for a leaky float valve, or the fuel pressure
being a bit too high, or perhaps a plastic float that has started to absorb
ethanol.

-- Randall  

From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com  Sun May 27 05:32:11 2012
From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad)
Date: Sun, 27 May 2012 04:32:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Brake light switch
In-Reply-To: <2C549160-E74F-492A-B2ED-FC971D1312E3@wfeca.net>
References: <2C549160-E74F-492A-B2ED-FC971D1312E3@wfeca.net>
Message-ID: <1338118331.97070.YahooMailNeo@web120503.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Go to O'Reilly's Auto Parts and get one to fit a '71 Ford truck.  It runs
about $6 and has a lifetime warranty.

Chad in Tulsa
________________________________
 From: Robert Jones <rjones at wfeca.net>
To:
triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Saturday, May 26, 2012 7:41 PM
Subject: [TR]
Brake light switch
 
Does anyone have a good original round brake light switch
for a TR6 they would
be willing to part with?
I got one of the current square
Lucas switches and it fell apart installing
it.  The round one lasted for 37
years.
Thanks

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sun May 27 06:19:28 2012
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sun, 27 May 2012 08:19:28 -0400
Subject: [TR] Brake light switch
In-Reply-To: <2C549160-E74F-492A-B2ED-FC971D1312E3@wfeca.net>
References: <2C549160-E74F-492A-B2ED-FC971D1312E3@wfeca.net>
Message-ID: <66DA766A6805459289E0A6288E1E7527@BobPC>

I just picked these two up on eBay to compare the quality and posted the 
results on my site (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/AltBrakeSwitch.htm)  Both 
appear to be of excellent quality with all metal construction except for the 
plastic insulator at the connection end. They're also easy to install and 
infinitely adjustable. No need to bend the mounting tab with these guys.

If you want to give a shot at repairing the original switch here's how I did 
that and it lasted for about a year 
(http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/BrakeSwitch.htm)

Bob


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
1975 TR6 with:
Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed
Nissan Diff & CVJs




-----Original Message----- 
From: Robert Jones
Sent: Saturday, May 26, 2012 8:41 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Brake light switch

Does anyone have a good original round brake light switch for a TR6 they 
would
be willing to part with?
I got one of the current square Lucas switches and it fell apart installing
it.  The round one lasted for 37 years.
Thanks

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Sun May 27 20:28:32 2012
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Sun, 27 May 2012 22:28:32 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A wanted
Message-ID: <86DCE42815054F588B5B0668E153FCFE@AlexPC>

Hey guys,
Hate to bomb the lists, but I might be able to kill two birds with one stone.
I have a good friend looking for a nice TR3A/B project.

If anyone has one or knows of one let me know off list.
Thx,
Alex Manzo
59TR3A
72TR6

From triosan at gmail.com  Mon May 28 12:27:39 2012
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley)
Date: Mon, 28 May 2012 11:27:39 -0700
Subject: [TR] identify transmission
Message-ID: <CAMc4sNDg_yUjeTs-wAnMVJJCHiX9xHtvvkZD1bXyhfkhnvzs4g@mail.gmail.com>

I have a 4 speed transmission with J-type OD I purchased on e-bay several
years ago.  The J-type does not have the same mounts as the car.  I am
wondering of anybody can identify it through the model numbers on the side
of the tranny:
306812WYF E336/R

-- 
Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Mon May 28 12:42:41 2012
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Mon, 28 May 2012 14:42:41 -0400
Subject: [TR] identify transmission
In-Reply-To: <CAMc4sNDg_yUjeTs-wAnMVJJCHiX9xHtvvkZD1bXyhfkhnvzs4g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAMc4sNDg_yUjeTs-wAnMVJJCHiX9xHtvvkZD1bXyhfkhnvzs4g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4FC3C721.8080705@adelphia.net>

Chuck,

My guess would be a late TR6.

Bob

On 05/28/2012 02:27 PM, Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley wrote:
> I have a 4 speed transmission with J-type OD I purchased on e-bay several
> years ago.  The J-type does not have the same mounts as the car.  I am
> wondering of anybody can identify it through the model numbers on the side
> of the tranny:
> 306812WYF E336/R

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Mon May 28 13:06:03 2012
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Mon, 28 May 2012 12:06:03 -0700
Subject: [TR] identify transmission
In-Reply-To: <4FC3C721.8080705@adelphia.net>
References: <CAMc4sNDg_yUjeTs-wAnMVJJCHiX9xHtvvkZD1bXyhfkhnvzs4g@mail.gmail.com>
	<4FC3C721.8080705@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bGKzZCvmdjmTPhsVycEEJZoQMuxq0=s9C6Lf6Ju9tn1kA@mail.gmail.com>

On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 11:42 AM, Bob Labuz <yellowtr at adelphia.net> wrote:

> My guess would be a late TR6.
>


Googling that number seems to confirm that.  One hit*:
http://www.trregistry.com/start/TR6/reports/indivdata.php?vin=CF50710U *

From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca  Mon May 28 13:30:06 2012
From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (amcewen2 at cogeco.ca)
Date: Mon, 28 May 2012 15:30:06 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A wanted
Message-ID: <4fc3d23e.7c.4947.14493@cogeco.ca>

You've got mail...
>
> Hey guys,
> Hate to bomb the lists, but I might be able to kill two birds with one stone.
> I have a good friend looking for a nice TR3A/B project.
>
> If anyone has one or knows of one let me know off list.
> Thx,
> Alex Manzo
> 59TR3A
> 72TR6

From mark at bradakis.com  Mon May 28 14:02:14 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Mon, 28 May 2012 14:02:14 -0600
Subject: [TR] J Type O/D
Message-ID: <4FC3D9C6.2040201@bradakis.com>

The fellow who bought my TR250 put a later J type gearbox in it.
It involved some surgery to the frame to fab up some mounts
that fit, not a simple task.  But he did get it working and was
happy with it once done.  Wish I still had that one - he offered me
a chance to buy it back.  It was bad timing - I had just lost my job
at the U of U and didn't think buying another car at the time would
be a wise thing to do.

On a different note, Bailey's will be closed this week while Mike does
some vacationing in Oregon, so I'll have time to work on stuff, like
getting the Team.Net archives working properly again.  I know many
folks miss that functionality.   One thing I have been meaning to do for
quite some time is reply to all those who contributed to Team.Net
during the fund drive or just because.  So be patient, you may hear
from me soon if you've made use of the donate link!

mjb.

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon May 28 15:00:57 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 28 May 2012 14:00:57 -0700
Subject: [TR] identify transmission
In-Reply-To: <CAMc4sNDg_yUjeTs-wAnMVJJCHiX9xHtvvkZD1bXyhfkhnvzs4g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAMc4sNDg_yUjeTs-wAnMVJJCHiX9xHtvvkZD1bXyhfkhnvzs4g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <001801cd3d14$fb017770$0601a8c0@randall>

> I am
> wondering of anybody can identify it through the model 
> numbers on the side
> of the tranny:

No serial number stamped on the boss for the clutch shaft?
http://goo.gl/wYJvl

-- Randall  

From aljlthomson at charter.net  Mon May 28 18:20:49 2012
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson)
Date: Mon, 28 May 2012 20:20:49 -0400
Subject: [TR] British Car Week
Message-ID: <000601cd3d30$e688c520$b39a4f60$@charter.net>

LBC Drivers - Don't forget! This is British Car Week. Sidestep the few
showers and get the old iron out and running. See the link.

 

Alex Thomson

Connecticut Triumph Register

 

www.britishcarweek.org

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Mon May 28 19:27:35 2012
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Mon, 28 May 2012 18:27:35 -0700
Subject: [TR] British Car Week
In-Reply-To: <000601cd3d30$e688c520$b39a4f60$@charter.net>
References: <000601cd3d30$e688c520$b39a4f60$@charter.net>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bGBcSpNU=t-7nrrdDou47hHF0Ny9nNETM+yrMx_a44WWQ@mail.gmail.com>

We always have a 'Phantom Car Show' to kick off British Car Week -- it was
held last Saturday at an empty parking lot in mid-town Tucson.  Drew about
40 cars, no formalities or prizes -- just rolls & cookies and bring your
own coffee.

As a complete surprise to us, this fellow was in Flagstaff and heard about
it from one of our members in New Mexico.  He made a 'little' side trip
(from his 50,000 mile One Lap for America) to participate:

http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2012/04/24/driving-away-cancer-a-50-state-odyssey-begins/

It made a nice addition to our celebration of the week.

Geo H



On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 5:20 PM, Alex & Janet Thomson <
aljlthomson at charter.net> wrote:

> LBC Drivers - Don't forget! This is British Car Week. Sidestep the few
> showers and get the old iron out and running. See the link.
>
>
>
> Alex Thomson
>
> Connecticut Triumph Register
>
>
>
> www.britishcarweek.org
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com

From bberger720 at sbcglobal.net  Mon May 28 20:52:57 2012
From: bberger720 at sbcglobal.net (Berger Bob)
Date: Mon, 28 May 2012 21:52:57 -0500
Subject: [TR] [Spits] British Car Week
In-Reply-To: <4B2456A5E4C64AF1B8B40C296D9F9EF5@AaronJohnsonPC>
References: <000601cd3d30$e688c520$b39a4f60$@charter.net>
	<4B2456A5E4C64AF1B8B40C296D9F9EF5@AaronJohnsonPC>
Message-ID: <A7E6D3C7-53B9-4742-99D3-A8219922BB87@sbcglobal.net>

I got mine out this morning too give it a bath and a rub down with a clay
brick. I'll wax it tomorrow after work.

Bob Berger
JE Novack Const.

On May 28, 2012, at 7:49 PM, "Aaron Johnson" <fpspitfire at comcast.net> wrote:

> I had the race car out at Nelson Ledges over the weekend and it will be
back
> in action at Mid-America Motorplex near Omaha this weekend!!!!
>
> aaron johnson
> #87 HP Spitfire 1500
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alex & Janet Thomson
> Sent: Monday, May 28, 2012 7:21 PM
> To: CTRIUMPH at yahoogroups.com; spitfires at autox.team.net;
> Triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Spits] British Car Week
>
> LBC Drivers - Don't forget! This is British Car Week. Sidestep the few
> showers and get the old iron out and running. See the link.
>
>
>
> Alex Thomson
>
> Connecticut Triumph Register
>
>
>
> www.britishcarweek.org
> _______________________________________________
>
> Spitfires at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/fpspitfire at comcast.net
> _______________________________________________
>
> Spitfires at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/bberger720 at sbcglobal.net

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Tue May 29 09:01:06 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Tue, 29 May 2012 08:01:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] British Car Week
In-Reply-To: <CANzE1bGBcSpNU=t-7nrrdDou47hHF0Ny9nNETM+yrMx_a44WWQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <000601cd3d30$e688c520$b39a4f60$@charter.net>
	<CANzE1bGBcSpNU=t-7nrrdDou47hHF0Ny9nNETM+yrMx_a44WWQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1338303666.46410.YahooMailNeo@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

John is a southern california native. so you can imagine my suprise when i met
him and his car at the Mitty last month.
a real gentleman and a great guy.
Frank
 

From: Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com>
To: Alex & Janet Thomson
<aljlthomson at charter.net> 
Cc: spitfires at autox.team.net;
CTRIUMPH at yahoogroups.com; 6pack at autox.team.net; Triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent:
Monday, May 28, 2012 6:27 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] British Car Week

We always
have a 'Phantom Car Show' to kick off British Car Week -- it was
held last
Saturday at an empty parking lot in mid-town Tucson.  Drew about
40 cars, no
formalities or prizes -- just rolls & cookies and bring your
own coffee.

As a
complete surprise to us, this fellow was in Flagstaff and heard about
it from
one of our members in New Mexico.  He made a 'little' side trip
(from his
50,000 mile One Lap for America) to participate:
http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2012/04/24/driving-away-cancer-a-50-state-
odyssey-begins/

It made a nice addition to our celebration of the week.

Geo
H



On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 5:20 PM, Alex & Janet Thomson <
aljlthomson at charter.net> wrote:

> LBC Drivers - Don't forget! This is British
Car Week. Sidestep the few
> showers and get the old iron out and running. See
the link.
>
>
>
> Alex Thomson
>
> Connecticut Triumph Register
>
>
>
>
www.britishcarweek.org
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com

**
triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From mark at bradakis.com  Tue May 29 14:42:54 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Tue, 29 May 2012 14:42:54 -0600
Subject: [TR] British Car Week undertaking
Message-ID: <4FC534CE.6080309@bradakis.com>

This could be tough.  I may need some moral support later this week!

http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=130


mjb.

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Tue May 29 14:53:54 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Tue, 29 May 2012 13:53:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] British Car Week undertaking
In-Reply-To: <4FC534CE.6080309@bradakis.com>
References: <4FC534CE.6080309@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <1338324834.25117.YahooMailNeo@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

all the support you need will come from that refrigerator!
Frank

From: Mark J
Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com>
To: Triumphs <Triumphs at autox.team.net>;
Spitfires at autox.team.net 
Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2012 1:42 PM
Subject: [TR]
British Car Week undertaking

This could be tough.  I may need some moral
support later this week!

http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=130
mjb.

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From pfischer at rmi.net  Tue May 29 15:01:42 2012
From: pfischer at rmi.net (Pat Fischer)
Date: Tue, 29 May 2012 16:01:42 -0500
Subject: [TR] British Car Week undertaking
In-Reply-To: <4FC534CE.6080309@bradakis.com>
References: <4FC534CE.6080309@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <4FC53936.3050105@rmi.net>

Oh, dear. I THINK it looks like a pretty car! Maybe a garage sale to 
help with Spit restoration?

Pat

On 5/29/2012 3:42 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote:
> This could be tough.  I may need some moral support later this week!
>
> http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=130
>
>
> mjb.
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pfischer at rmi.net

From mark at bradakis.com  Tue May 29 15:39:44 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Tue, 29 May 2012 15:39:44 -0600
Subject: [TR] British Car Week undertaking
In-Reply-To: <4FC53936.3050105@rmi.net>
References: <4FC534CE.6080309@bradakis.com> <4FC53936.3050105@rmi.net>
Message-ID: <4FC54220.5080905@bradakis.com>

Pat Fischer wrote:
> Oh, dear. I THINK it looks like a pretty car!

You'll be seeing more pictures of it as the week goes on.  It really 
doesn't look
that bad!

> Maybe a garage sale to help with Spit restoration?
>

Actually I think I have all the parts I need to just get it running 
again, so it
won't cost much, just fresh oil, gas, etc.  But I'm always willing to accept
contributions to the Fat Chance Garage Tool and Beverage Fund!   I do have
some items in the garage left over from the shop that I no longer need, will
be selling those locally, here in Salt Lake.

Getting the Killer Spit back into shape, that's a different story!

mjb.

From trglory at verizon.net  Tue May 29 18:50:48 2012
From: trglory at verizon.net (Joseph Laurito)
Date: Tue, 29 May 2012 20:50:48 -0400
Subject: [TR] British Car Week undertaking
In-Reply-To: <4FC534CE.6080309@bradakis.com>
References: <4FC534CE.6080309@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <007201cd3dfe$417e0da0$c47a28e0$@net>

Mark;

I'll be driving my TR3 this week. The car hasn't been a driver since 1993.
If I still lived up in Cottonwood Canyon I'd be over to help you dig that
poor thing out. The reality is that all I can offer you now is extreme moral
support from the Keystone State. If I send you a picture of mine on the road
would you send me a picture of yours on the road?

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis
Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2012 4:43 PM
To: Triumphs; Spitfires at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] British Car Week undertaking

This could be tough.  I may need some moral support later this week!

http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=130


mjb.

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From robertrudolphi at yahoo.com  Wed May 30 06:07:34 2012
From: robertrudolphi at yahoo.com (robert rudolphi)
Date: Wed, 30 May 2012 05:07:34 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] 74 TR6 Braking issue
In-Reply-To: <1338331462.60848.YahooMailNeo@web164503.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <1338331462.60848.YahooMailNeo@web164503.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1338379654.90439.YahooMailNeo@web125404.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Hello All,

Over the last year or so I have noticed a strange braking issue on
my TR6. When I am stopped at a red light, after  a few seconds the car will
start to roll if I am on anything but level ground. I can push harder on the
break and it will stop and if I pump the brakes they seem to firm up. It feels
like they loose clamping pressure. During normal stopping everything feels
fine. Do you think they need to be bled, Master cylinder needs replacing????
Thanks in advance for any assistance.

Robert
Robert Rudolphi
74 TR6 

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed May 30 07:01:05 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 30 May 2012 06:01:05 -0700
Subject: [TR] 74 TR6 Braking issue
In-Reply-To: <1338379654.90439.YahooMailNeo@web125404.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1338331462.60848.YahooMailNeo@web164503.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<1338379654.90439.YahooMailNeo@web125404.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <002101cd3e64$46f00840$0601a8c0@randall>

> When I am stopped at a red light, after  a few 
> seconds the car will
> start to roll if I am on anything but level ground. I can 
> push harder on the
> break and it will stop and if I pump the brakes they seem to 
> firm up.

If you're not losing fluid, it's almost certainly the master cylinder.

My Stag had the same symptom when I got it; not too long afterwards the MC
quit working entirely.

-- Randall  

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Wed May 30 12:02:22 2012
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Wed, 30 May 2012 11:02:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] SU air filters
Message-ID: <1338400942.45879.YahooMailNeo@web65505.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

I've installed a TR-4A exhaust manifold on my tr-3 and therefor had to use a
different intake manifold which pushed the carbs out toward the inner fender
at least another inch.  I'll need to fit different air filters and believe
I've read some where that the K and N tapered ones might fit without
"adjusting" the inner fender.LOL  Does anyone have experience with this?

I
also was curious about how filters are measured.  Moss sells tapered K and N's
in sizes 1 1/2"  as well as 1 and 3/4.  The intake hole in my carb is 1 and
5/8.  Am I measuring the right thing?  


thanks!

gary n.

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Wed May 30 12:30:31 2012
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh)
Date: Wed, 30 May 2012 11:30:31 -0700
Subject: [TR] SU air filters
In-Reply-To: <1338400942.45879.YahooMailNeo@web65505.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <1338400942.45879.YahooMailNeo@web65505.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <2D1C4B5F-41C7-418F-A6D1-F33B31C48FA1@comcast.net>

Did the same thing, had to use the real narrow  1/2 inch? And cut the bottom
off the front one.


On May 30, 2012, at 11:02 AM, Gary Nafziger wrote:

> I've installed a TR-4A exhaust manifold on my tr-3 and therefor had to use
a
> different intake manifold which pushed the carbs out toward the inner
fender
> at least another inch.  I'll need to fit different air filters and believe
> I've read some where that the K and N tapered ones might fit without
> "adjusting" the inner fender.LOL  Does anyone have experience with this?
>
> I
> also was curious about how filters are measured.  Moss sells tapered K and
N's
> in sizes 1 1/2"  as well as 1 and 3/4.  The intake hole in my carb is 1 and
> 5/8.  Am I measuring the right thing?
>
>
> thanks!
>
> gary n.
>

Bill Pugh
1957 TR3 "Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA
anabil007 at comcast.net

From tr3abobm77 at frontier.com  Wed May 30 13:30:59 2012
From: tr3abobm77 at frontier.com (tr3abobm77 at frontier.com)
Date: Wed, 30 May 2012 19:30:59 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] SU air filters
In-Reply-To: <772366610.2157438.1338406251905.JavaMail.root@cl02-host04.dlls.pa.frontiernet.net>
Message-ID: <1854741443.2157442.1338406259291.JavaMail.root@cl02-host04.dlls.pa.frontiernet.net>

I sort of did the same thing. Mine project is still in the "Evaluation" phase. What I elected to do was to eliminate the heat spacer between the intake manifold and the carbs. I am using the stock TR3A carbs and air cleaners and still have 1/4 inch between the front air cleaner and the inner fender. I drove it a few hundred mile last summer like this and have noticed no problems due to removing the heat spacer. I don't have the intake manifold bolted to the exhaust manifold either because I don't drive it in cold weather and have no need to heat the intake.

Bob Maassel
59 TR3A

----- Original Message -----
From: "William Pugh" <anabil007 at comcast.net>
To: "Gary Nafziger" <nafzigerg at yahoo.com>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2012 2:30:31 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] SU air filters

Did the same thing, had to use the real narrow  1/2 inch? And cut the bottom
off the front one.


On May 30, 2012, at 11:02 AM, Gary Nafziger wrote:

> I've installed a TR-4A exhaust manifold on my tr-3 and therefor had to use
a
> different intake manifold which pushed the carbs out toward the inner
fender
> at least another inch.  I'll need to fit different air filters and believe
> I've read some where that the K and N tapered ones might fit without
> "adjusting" the inner fender.LOL  Does anyone have experience with this?
>
> I
> also was curious about how filters are measured.  Moss sells tapered K and
N's
> in sizes 1 1/2"  as well as 1 and 3/4.  The intake hole in my carb is 1 and
> 5/8.  Am I measuring the right thing?
>
>
> thanks!
>
> gary n.
>

Bill Pugh
1957 TR3 "Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA
anabil007 at comcast.net

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From levilevi at comcast.net  Wed May 30 13:44:08 2012
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Wed, 30 May 2012 13:44:08 -0600
Subject: [TR] Paper Air Filters
In-Reply-To: <0fb701cd34b1$883c2070$0601a8c0@randall>
References: <21894907.652499.1337273375466.JavaMail.root@vms170015>
	<435900281.566069.1337291095352.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<0fb701cd34b1$883c2070$0601a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <F0E916AB-8412-449E-8DB6-1F82F2600EAA@comcast.net>

I put a pair of Joe Alexander's velocity stacks on my TR6 recently  
along with his very nice covers which filter out the big chunks of  
debris.

Wanting a little more protection and filtering I went looking for  
something to put over the stack covers when I'm not rodding it.  What  
I found was that the cloth drain covers for my hot tub fit nicely with  
enough resistance to not come off when at highway speed.

Don't know how much filtering goes on but it's at least more than  
before and I can just shake them out when I need to and not mess with  
a lot of maintenance.  My oil may get a little dirtier but the engine  
sure hums with the velocity stacks.  I may test a few different types  
of material (sponge, etc.) to put between the stack covers and the  
drain cover just to see what  gets caught. Still looking for that fine  
line between flow and filtering. I like power but not replacing rings.

For those with Joe's velocity stacks or just interested:   Part Name/ 
Number:   Sundance Spas Drain Cover 6540-213.  They are approx. 4 3/4  
inches diameter and stretch just a wee bit.

Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net




On May 17, 2012, at 10:48 PM, Randall wrote:

>> Can't remember the brand I bought, but they were
>> round with a flat shiny metal (not chrome) front and back
>> plate.  Thing is, they didn't fit well, bumped into the fuel lines.
>
> I think the round ones are NLA.  But the oval ones from a TR4A fit  
> about as
> well and are readily available from the usual suspects.  TRF has a 4- 
> pack of
> them under the P/N LUF8277/4 for $34
>
> -- Randall  
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net

From levilevi at comcast.net  Wed May 30 13:49:40 2012
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Wed, 30 May 2012 13:49:40 -0600
Subject: [TR] Paper Air Filters
In-Reply-To: <0fb701cd34b1$883c2070$0601a8c0@randall>
References: <21894907.652499.1337273375466.JavaMail.root@vms170015>
	<435900281.566069.1337291095352.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<0fb701cd34b1$883c2070$0601a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <1E70B0B8-075E-46FB-8F93-D9A5C7456B2A@comcast.net>

I put a pair of Joe Alexander's velocity stacks on my TR6 recently  
along with his very nice covers which filter out the big chunks of  
debris.

Wanting a little more protection and filtering I went looking for  
something to put over the stack covers when I'm not rodding it.  What  
I found was that the cloth drain covers for my hot tub fit nicely with  
enough resistance to not come off when at highway speed.

Don't know how much filtering goes on but it's at least more than  
before and I can just shake them out when I need to and not mess with  
a lot of maintenance.  My oil may get a little dirtier but the engine  
sure hums with the velocity stacks.  I may test a few different types  
of material (sponge, etc.) to put between the stack covers and the  
drain cover just to see what  gets caught. Still looking for that fine  
line between flow and filtering. I like power but not replacing rings.

For those with Joe's velocity stacks or just interested:   Part Name/ 
Number:   Sundance Spas Drain Cover 6540-213.  They are approx. 4 3/4  
inches diameter and stretch just a wee bit.


Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net

From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk  Wed May 30 15:03:48 2012
From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Wed, 30 May 2012 22:03:48 +0100 (BST)
Subject: [TR] Air Filters
In-Reply-To: <1E70B0B8-075E-46FB-8F93-D9A5C7456B2A@comcast.net>
References: <21894907.652499.1337273375466.JavaMail.root@vms170015>
	<435900281.566069.1337291095352.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<0fb701cd34b1$883c2070$0601a8c0@randall>
	<1E70B0B8-075E-46FB-8F93-D9A5C7456B2A@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1338411828.58910.YahooMailNeo@web29404.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

Two? Three? weeks ago, there was some active email exchanges on the merits of
KN versus other filter types - and I don't intend to re-open that thread. That
said, there were a number of issues raised about filter evolution and why some
were better than others etc etc. Personally, I felt a number of opinions
(while respected by me) were approaching the subject from the wrong direction
with the result that a few blind alleys got opened up and even more was
inconclusive.
Liz and I were away from home soon after the earlier thread
closed but in the hopes of better informing myself, I took quite a number of
ancient notebooks out of my archive together with another pile of production
reports from Standard-Triumph - and used some of our leisure time in the land
of The Single Malt, to have a mosey through those dusty pages. The task was
even more pleasurable because I'd availed myself of an especially good one
from a distillery just down the road!
While not answering many of the
questions the thread raised, I now have a fascinating insight into the
evolution of the air filter on the run-of-the-mill LBC. It goes right back to
WW2, the Western Desert conflict, manufacturer ignorance combined with
arrogance - and lousy quality oil. I'm now in the process of typing up my
findings and while it'll be much too large to appear here, I'll be happy to
let others have it who may be interested?
Having said that, I'm very aware
I've yet to send out the story I offered some weeks ago of where the rust on
your Triumph (probably) started. Quite a number of people wrote in requesting
a copy and it'll be on its way very soon. The reason for the delay is I'd
somehow managed to wipe the pictures I'd taken from my hard disk and had to go
out again to take new ones. Those got wiped from the camera - so I had to go
yet again.
Let me know off list if you want an 'Air Filter' story (not
illustrated) or a 'Where My Triumph Started To Rust' story (with pix) - or
both.
Jonmac

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Wed May 30 15:14:09 2012
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Wed, 30 May 2012 16:14:09 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] Air Filters
Message-ID: <19707870.77662.1338412449381.JavaMail.root@vznit170060>

That weekend discussion cost me $90 going back and forth between K&N and paper. Can't afford it to start again.


Craig
72 TR6
Vienna, VA


On 05/30/12, John Macartney<flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk> wrote:

Two? Three? weeks ago, there was some active email exchanges on the merits of
KN versus other filter types - and I don't intend to re-open that thread. That
said, there were a number of issues raised about filter evolution and why some
were better than others etc etc. Personally, I felt a number of opinions
(while respected by me) were approaching the subject from the wrong direction
with the result that a few blind alleys got opened up and even more was
inconclusive.
Liz and I were away from home soon after the earlier thread
closed but in the hopes of better informing myself, I took quite a number of
ancient notebooks out of my archive together with another pile of production
reports from Standard-Triumph - and used some of our leisure time in the land
of The Single Malt, to have a mosey through those dusty pages. The task was
even more pleasurable because I'd availed myself of an especially good one
from a distillery just down the road!
While not answering many of the
questions the thread raised, I now have a fascinating insight into the
evolution of the air filter on the run-of-the-mill LBC. It goes right back to
WW2, the Western Desert conflict, manufacturer ignorance combined with
arrogance - and lousy quality oil. I'm now in the process of typing up my
findings and while it'll be much too large to appear here, I'll be happy to
let others have it who may be interested?
Having said that, I'm very aware
I've yet to send out the story I offered some weeks ago of where the rust on
your Triumph (probably) started. Quite a number of people wrote in requesting
a copy and it'll be on its way very soon. The reason for the delay is I'd
somehow managed to wipe the pictures I'd taken from my hard disk and had to go
out again to take new ones. Those got wiped from the camera - so I had to go
yet again.
Let me know off list if you want an 'Air Filter' story (not
illustrated) or a 'Where My Triumph Started To Rust' story (with pix) - or
both.
Jonmac

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From dave at ranteer.com  Wed May 30 19:04:18 2012
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Wed, 30 May 2012 20:04:18 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 manifold Studs
In-Reply-To: <19707870.77662.1338412449381.JavaMail.root@vznit170060>
References: <19707870.77662.1338412449381.JavaMail.root@vznit170060>
Message-ID: <1466320D97AA455B976312687A5AAA03@ranteer.local>

I picked up a TR4 with a header.   as such, the manifold studs are really 
too long and have too big a shoulder.  there were some interesting spacers 
holding the whole thing together.

can I just get shorter ones some where?  do they have to be special in some 
way?

thanks! 

From darrellw360 at mac.com  Wed May 30 20:04:20 2012
From: darrellw360 at mac.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Wed, 30 May 2012 19:04:20 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 manifold Studs
In-Reply-To: <1466320D97AA455B976312687A5AAA03@ranteer.local>
References: <19707870.77662.1338412449381.JavaMail.root@vznit170060>
	<1466320D97AA455B976312687A5AAA03@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <D312D1E5-8305-4B16-8219-64B9924F13C8@mac.com>

On May 30, 2012, at 6:04 PM, Dave wrote:

> I picked up a TR4 with a header.   as such, the manifold studs are really too long and have too big a shoulder.  there were some interesting spacers holding the whole thing together.
> 
> can I just get shorter ones some where?  do they have to be special in some way?

Not all of the studs are the same length, so you could source some of he shorter ones.

But is the flange on the header thinner than the one on the intake?  If so, you will want to use some kind of spacer between the thinner flange and the clamps, otherwise they won't seal the manifold very well.

I drilled and tapped the clamp on the end for the thinner manifold, and threaded in a screw with the appropriate thickness head to make up the difference.

-Darrell

-- 
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Thu May 31 04:11:12 2012
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Thu, 31 May 2012 06:11:12 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 manifold Studs
In-Reply-To: <1466320D97AA455B976312687A5AAA03@ranteer.local>
References: <19707870.77662.1338412449381.JavaMail.root@vznit170060>
	<1466320D97AA455B976312687A5AAA03@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <CANhzkeO5o+J_0iAHDxbJ50iBq9_xjjtP6_zGZnyY3V=wdo2yCg@mail.gmail.com>

You might find suitable one (of all places) at your local hdw store in
specialty hardware. Mine has a tray of manifold studs. Will likely be
coarse on both ends.  Help section of your flaps will have the same.
On May 30, 2012 9:05 PM, "Dave" <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:

> I picked up a TR4 with a header.   as such, the manifold studs are really
> too long and have too big a shoulder.  there were some interesting spacers
> holding the whole thing together.
>
> can I just get shorter ones some where?  do they have to be special in
> some way?
>
> thanks!
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html<http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**
> options/triumphs/ccsimonsen@**gmail.com<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ccsimonsen at gmail.com>

From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk  Thu May 31 05:31:40 2012
From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Thu, 31 May 2012 12:31:40 +0100 (BST)
Subject: [TR] "As it left the Factory" Wish us luck ????
Message-ID: <1338463900.1400.YahooMailNeo@web29401.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

This coming weekend (being Her Majesty's Diamond Jubilee) an old and valued
friend from Standard-Triumph and I, have prepared his imported and superbly
restored TR250 for a special event. Sadly, we were committed to the car event
some months ago, so the invitation from The Palace to take part in the River
Thames Festival on the Royal Barge came just a tad too late. But never mind,
I'm sure Her Majesty will have a lovely day!
Anyway, back to the car event.
It's a very large one and the organisers are expecting over 2000 LBC's of all
makes and types to take part. Mike (my old chum) and I have been busy
preparing the 250 for its debut in a group called "As It Left The Factory."
Actually, we expect to find a lot of people jockeying for a concours prize in
the same category so with our own 'inside knowledge' from days of yore, the
250 has had the following work done to it:
 
1. The body has been completely
sprayed with industrial lanolin. This nicely covers the superb paint job and
gives the car a boring, dull, matt finish.We've been careful to ensure an
overspray of lanolin around the windscreen edge and glass side windows. All
this lanolin will easily wash off with warm water and a high pressure hose -
just as did the original stuff.
2. The soft top is covered with protective
plastic sheeting held in place with tape around the roof edges and to stop
flapping
3. All chromework has been covered in adhesive-backed white cotton
masking tape, while stainless or ally brightwork is covered with the lanolin
anyway
4. The rostyle hub caps and licence plates have been removed and are in
a box in the boot
5. The headlamps are out and waxed cardboard discs cover the
headlamp buckets. This is how the cars left the UK anyway and as the 250 now
has dip left halogen units instead of the dip right sealed beams, it's
entirely right the lights should be removed for 'authentic judging'
6. The red
and white indicator lenses are back in place to temporarily replace the yellow
ones of a TR5
7. Carpets in the footwells have been removed and are in another
box in the boot
8. All upholstery is covered with protective plastic
9. The
windscreen has replica (as far as our memories and Photoshop skills allow)
production / shipping / storage / anti-freeze labels - and all slapped on it
such a way you can hardly see out of it. In other words, just as it left the
factory.
10. To complete the picture, we'll be delivering it to the event on a
trailer - because that's exactly how the vast majority of export cars came off
the line and got themselves shipped to the docks.
 
There's only one thing
we've been unable to do and that's to run a set of 1968 Goodyear redlines to
earth - but hopefully no-one will notice. We think this plan is just a bit of
harmless fun-poking at a real PITA arrogant, know-all (who actually doesn't)
UK TR5 enthusiast we know will be there with both his grossly over-restored
cars who he maintains are always exhibited as factory fresh. The idea is to
park the 250 in between them if we can, while another friend with a Standard
10 Van, signwritten as The Standard Motor Company, Coventry in the original
grey/blue paint colour hopes to be very close at hand. Will we be successful?
I'll let you know next week.
 
Jonmac

From trguy75 at gmail.com  Thu May 31 06:02:45 2012
From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen)
Date: Thu, 31 May 2012 08:02:45 -0400
Subject: [TR] "As it left the Factory" Wish us luck ????
In-Reply-To: <1338463900.1400.YahooMailNeo@web29401.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
References: <1338463900.1400.YahooMailNeo@web29401.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <2514EC9B-8D74-44EA-AE5A-185B60BFFDDB@gmail.com>

Sounds like a blast! Good luck and post pictures.
Jim Henningsen
Ocala, FL
62 TR4 (about to get painted after an18 month tear down)
75TR6



Sent from my iPad

On May 31, 2012, at 7:31 AM, John Macartney <flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk>
wrote:

> This coming weekend (being Her Majesty's Diamond Jubilee) an old and valued
> friend from Standard-Triumph and I, have prepared his imported and superbly
> restored TR250 for a special event. Sadly, we were committed to the car
event
> some months ago, so the invitation from The Palace to take part in the
River
> Thames Festival on the Royal Barge came just a tad too late. But never
mind,
> I'm sure Her Majesty will have a lovely day!
> Anyway, back to the car event.
> It's a very large one and the organisers are expecting over 2000 LBC's of
all
> makes and types to take part. Mike (my old chum) and I have been busy
> preparing the 250 for its debut in a group called "As It Left The Factory."
> Actually, we expect to find a lot of people jockeying for a concours prize
in
> the same category so with our own 'inside knowledge' from days of yore, the
> 250 has had the following work done to it:
>
> 1. The body has been completely
> sprayed with industrial lanolin. This nicely covers the superb paint job
and
> gives the car a boring, dull, matt finish.We've been careful to ensure an
> overspray of lanolin around the windscreen edge and glass side windows. All
> this lanolin will easily wash off with warm water and a high pressure hose
-
> just as did the original stuff.
> 2. The soft top is covered with protective
> plastic sheeting held in place with tape around the roof edges and to stop
> flapping
> 3. All chromework has been covered in adhesive-backed white cotton
> masking tape, while stainless or ally brightwork is covered with the
lanolin
> anyway
> 4. The rostyle hub caps and licence plates have been removed and are in
> a box in the boot
> 5. The headlamps are out and waxed cardboard discs cover the
> headlamp buckets. This is how the cars left the UK anyway and as the 250
now
> has dip left halogen units instead of the dip right sealed beams, it's
> entirely right the lights should be removed for 'authentic judging'
> 6. The red
> and white indicator lenses are back in place to temporarily replace the
yellow
> ones of a TR5
> 7. Carpets in the footwells have been removed and are in another
> box in the boot
> 8. All upholstery is covered with protective plastic
> 9. The
> windscreen has replica (as far as our memories and Photoshop skills allow)
> production / shipping / storage / anti-freeze labels - and all slapped on
it
> such a way you can hardly see out of it. In other words, just as it left
the
> factory.
> 10. To complete the picture, we'll be delivering it to the event on a
> trailer - because that's exactly how the vast majority of export cars came
off
> the line and got themselves shipped to the docks.
>
> There's only one thing
> we've been unable to do and that's to run a set of 1968 Goodyear redlines
to
> earth - but hopefully no-one will notice. We think this plan is just a bit
of
> harmless fun-poking at a real PITA arrogant, know-all (who actually
doesn't)
> UK TR5 enthusiast we know will be there with both his grossly over-restored
> cars who he maintains are always exhibited as factory fresh. The idea is to
> park the 250 in between them if we can, while another friend with a
Standard
> 10 Van, signwritten as The Standard Motor Company, Coventry in the original
> grey/blue paint colour hopes to be very close at hand. Will we be
successful?
> I'll let you know next week.
>
> Jonmac
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trguy75 at gmail.com

From fishplate at charter.net  Thu May 31 06:07:20 2012
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff)
Date: Thu, 31 May 2012 08:07:20 -0400
Subject: [TR] "As it left the Factory" Wish us luck ????
In-Reply-To: <1338463900.1400.YahooMailNeo@web29401.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
References: <1338463900.1400.YahooMailNeo@web29401.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4FC75EF8.8020208@charter.net>

On 5/31/2012 7:31 AM, John Macartney wrote:
> We think this plan is just a bit of
> harmless fun-poking at a real PITA arrogant, know-all

John, you have my endless admiration for carrying out this scheme.  I 
hope that pictures will soon be provided!

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

From wbeech at flash.net  Thu May 31 08:53:34 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Thu, 31 May 2012 09:53:34 -0500
Subject: [TR] "As it left the Factory" Wish us luck ????
In-Reply-To: <1338463900.1400.YahooMailNeo@web29401.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
References: <1338463900.1400.YahooMailNeo@web29401.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <F8E81381AA6345F1AA8821B8444FD767@bboffice>

They said "Factory" not "Showroom" so you have to be the spot on winner!
Looking for pictures soon.
All the best,
Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Hello, my name is Bill and I own an old British car.  Now...What are the
next 11 steps?"
 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Macartney
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2012 6:32 AM
To: Triumph List
Subject: [TR] "As it left the Factory" Wish us luck ????

This coming weekend (being Her Majesty's Diamond Jubilee) an old and valued
friend from Standard-Triumph and I, have prepared his imported and superbly
restored TR250 for a special event. Sadly, we were committed to the car
event some months ago, so the invitation from The Palace to take part in the
River Thames Festival on the Royal Barge came just a tad too late. But never
mind, I'm sure Her Majesty will have a lovely day!
Anyway, back to the car event.
It's a very large one and the organisers are expecting over 2000 LBC's of
all makes and types to take part. Mike (my old chum) and I have been busy
preparing the 250 for its debut in a group called "As It Left The Factory."
Actually, we expect to find a lot of people jockeying for a concours prize
in the same category so with our own 'inside knowledge' from days of yore,
the 250 has had the following work done to it:
 
1. The body has been completely
sprayed with industrial lanolin. This nicely covers the superb paint job and
gives the car a boring, dull, matt finish.We've been careful to ensure an
overspray of lanolin around the windscreen edge and glass side windows. All
this lanolin will easily wash off with warm water and a high pressure hose -
just as did the original stuff.
2. The soft top is covered with protective plastic sheeting held in place
with tape around the roof edges and to stop flapping 3. All chromework has
been covered in adhesive-backed white cotton masking tape, while stainless
or ally brightwork is covered with the lanolin anyway 4. The rostyle hub
caps and licence plates have been removed and are in a box in the boot 5.
The headlamps are out and waxed cardboard discs cover the headlamp buckets.
This is how the cars left the UK anyway and as the 250 now has dip left
halogen units instead of the dip right sealed beams, it's entirely right the
lights should be removed for 'authentic judging'
6. The red
and white indicator lenses are back in place to temporarily replace the
yellow ones of a TR5 7. Carpets in the footwells have been removed and are
in another box in the boot 8. All upholstery is covered with protective
plastic 9. The windscreen has replica (as far as our memories and Photoshop
skills allow) production / shipping / storage / anti-freeze labels - and all
slapped on it such a way you can hardly see out of it. In other words, just
as it left the factory.
10. To complete the picture, we'll be delivering it to the event on a
trailer - because that's exactly how the vast majority of export cars came
off the line and got themselves shipped to the docks.
 
There's only one thing
we've been unable to do and that's to run a set of 1968 Goodyear redlines to
earth - but hopefully no-one will notice. We think this plan is just a bit
of harmless fun-poking at a real PITA arrogant, know-all (who actually
doesn't) UK TR5 enthusiast we know will be there with both his grossly
over-restored cars who he maintains are always exhibited as factory fresh.
The idea is to park the 250 in between them if we can, while another friend
with a Standard 10 Van, signwritten as The Standard Motor Company, Coventry
in the original grey/blue paint colour hopes to be very close at hand. Will
we be successful?
I'll let you know next week.
 
Jonmac

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From dconnitt at fuse.net  Wed May 30 19:53:49 2012
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Wed, 30 May 2012 21:53:49 -0400
Subject: [TR] Brake Fluid?
Message-ID: <F8F826C253EE403388AA64838C391FA0@DaveLaptop>

Hi List,
I don't really want to start another thread on brake fluid but I am getting to
the point of adding brake fluid to my TR4A and was planning on using just
plain DOT3 brake fluid. Actually, I had really planned on using synthetic
brake fluid when I noticed the box my clutch master cylinder came in stated
the warranty would be void on the master cylinder if I used synthetic fluid. I
checked with TRF where I bought the cylinder and they confirmed what I read,
No Synthetic brake fluid... They apparently had a crap load of warranty
returns on brake parts and traced it back to a common use of synthetic brake
fluid.  Before everybody gets excited,, I am just repeating what I was told.

Fast forward to this week.. At work, I mentioned to a guy with several old
British sports cars what I was planning on doing and he said, "You haven't
used DOT 3?", and told me to only use Girling LMA (Low Moisture Activity)
brake fluid as anything else will reduce the life of the rubber parts in the
brakes and clutch. I haven't done a lot of research on this yet and "LMA"
sounds suspiciously like it could be synthentic but maybe that's the midwest
coming out it me.
Anyway, If I don't find out anything to change my mind,  I think I am going to
pick up a quart of the Girling brake fluid next time I order from The Roadster
Factory as they seem to sell it and I will be needing to order the dash crash
pad anyway.
Nice weather coming up this weekend in Cincinnati so I will be painting!
Have a great weekend everyone!
Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A IRS
http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a

From cak at dimebank.com  Thu May 31 09:53:38 2012
From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Date: Thu, 31 May 2012 08:53:38 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 manifold Studs
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1921.1338463961.22195.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.1921.1338463961.22195.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <4FC79402.9080704@dimebank.com>

The original exhaust manifold studs were copper coated and came in multiple 
lengths. You might try sourcing the shorter ones from TRF, but if you end up 
using "generic" ones, please be sure to use anti-seize before installing in the 
cylinder head. The factory nuts were "tall" and made of brass; those got hard 
to find and I started using normal stainless hardware to avoid corrosion 
problems over the years.

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Thu May 31 10:07:39 2012
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Thu, 31 May 2012 09:07:39 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 manifold Studs
In-Reply-To: <4FC79402.9080704@dimebank.com>
References: <mailman.1921.1338463961.22195.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<4FC79402.9080704@dimebank.com>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bE2L7yEHHjXg1MJjJxVaLY9-qmANU9RnUO9bRWCaQtA3Q@mail.gmail.com>

On Thu, May 31, 2012 at 8:53 AM, Chris Kantarjiev <cak at dimebank.com> wrote:

> ...The factory nuts were "tall" and made of brass; those got hard to
> find...
>


FWIW, a local auto parts place (small local chain -- think Carquest rather
than Autozone) still has them.  I used them but I was thinking the
originals were tall steel.

Geo

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Thu May 31 10:08:44 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Thu, 31 May 2012 09:08:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Brake Fluid?
In-Reply-To: <F8F826C253EE403388AA64838C391FA0@DaveLaptop>
References: <F8F826C253EE403388AA64838C391FA0@DaveLaptop>
Message-ID: <1338480524.83517.YahooMailNeo@web120205.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Dave
i saw all the warning signs on warranties but decided i was going to try
silicone on my TR3.
I'm so glad i did.
some of my joints leaked onto my newly
painted car.
friend #1 used same on his TR3. he had no leaks
friend #2 used
same on his TR3. he had joint leaks onto his new paint.
I'm into my car 3
years now and the only thing that may be getting upset by the silicone is my
hydraulic stop lamp switch. the original 50 year old switch lasted about 24
months. the new switch lasted 12 months and currently needs replacing. the
original may have just worn out and the replacements are always of unknown
quality usually of Chinese origin. if the new switch fails in 12 months ill be
thinking silicone ...maybe.
Friend #1 is 4 years into his with no problems.
friend #2 is 18 months into his with no problems.
 
recently worked on friend
#1's TR6. it had conventional fluif. we changed the brake master cylinder. the
next day we noticed the bonnet was completely covered in paint damage dots
caused by the fluif that had gotten into the air and settled on it. remember
the TR6 bonnet opens forward so how did it get airborn and settled? bummer! so
now we get to clear coat the bonnet as well.
 
your results may vary.
just my
experiences.
Frank
 

From: Dave Connitt <dconnitt at fuse.net>
To:
triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2012 6:53 PM
Subject: [TR]
Brake Fluid?

Hi List,
I don't really want to start another thread on brake
fluid but I am getting to
the point of adding brake fluid to my TR4A and was
planning on using just
plain DOT3 brake fluid. Actually, I had really planned
on using synthetic
brake fluid when I noticed the box my clutch master
cylinder came in stated
the warranty would be void on the master cylinder if I
used synthetic fluid. I
checked with TRF where I bought the cylinder and they
confirmed what I read,
No Synthetic brake fluid... They apparently had a crap
load of warranty
returns on brake parts and traced it back to a common use of
synthetic brake
fluid.  Before everybody gets excited,, I am just repeating
what I was told.

Fast forward to this week.. At work, I mentioned to a guy
with several old
British sports cars what I was planning on doing and he said,
"You haven't
used DOT 3?", and told me to only use Girling LMA (Low Moisture
Activity)
brake fluid as anything else will reduce the life of the rubber
parts in the
brakes and clutch. I haven't done a lot of research on this yet
and "LMA"
sounds suspiciously like it could be synthentic but maybe that's the
midwest
coming out it me.
Anyway, If I don't find out anything to change my
mind,  I think I am going to
pick up a quart of the Girling brake fluid next
time I order from The Roadster
Factory as they seem to sell it and I will be
needing to order the dash crash
pad anyway.
Nice weather coming up this
weekend in Cincinnati so I will be painting!
Have a great weekend everyone!
Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A IRS
http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a

From wbeech at flash.net  Thu May 31 10:21:16 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Thu, 31 May 2012 11:21:16 -0500
Subject: [TR] Brake Fluid?
In-Reply-To: <F8F826C253EE403388AA64838C391FA0@DaveLaptop>
References: <F8F826C253EE403388AA64838C391FA0@DaveLaptop>
Message-ID: <F780658D712848B0896E94E53FFC5D28@bboffice>

I noticed the same notation on the box of a re-pro clutch slave unit I just
installed last week.

Been running DOT-5 for four years now with no problems, I am sure others
will respond with greater experience.  I guess the main selling point for me
was the fact the DOT-5 doesn't strip your paint.  I would rather re-build
the M/C every five years than re-paint the buggy.

Just my thoughts,
Bill


Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Hello, my name is Bill and I own an old British car.  Now...What are the
next 11 steps?"




-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Connitt
Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2012 8:54 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Brake Fluid?

Hi List,
I don't really want to start another thread on brake fluid but I am getting
to the point of adding brake fluid to my TR4A and was planning on using just
plain DOT3 brake fluid. Actually, I had really planned on using synthetic
brake fluid when I noticed the box my clutch master cylinder came in stated
the warranty would be void on the master cylinder if I used synthetic fluid.
I checked with TRF where I bought the cylinder and they confirmed what I
read, No Synthetic brake fluid... They apparently had a crap load of
warranty returns on brake parts and traced it back to a common use of
synthetic brake fluid.  Before everybody gets excited,, I am just repeating
what I was told.

Fast forward to this week.. At work, I mentioned to a guy with several old
British sports cars what I was planning on doing and he said, "You haven't
used DOT 3?", and told me to only use Girling LMA (Low Moisture Activity)
brake fluid as anything else will reduce the life of the rubber parts in the
brakes and clutch. I haven't done a lot of research on this yet and "LMA"
sounds suspiciously like it could be synthentic but maybe that's the midwest
coming out it me.
Anyway, If I don't find out anything to change my mind,  I think I am going
to pick up a quart of the Girling brake fluid next time I order from The
Roadster Factory as they seem to sell it and I will be needing to order the
dash crash pad anyway.
Nice weather coming up this weekend in Cincinnati so I will be painting!
Have a great weekend everyone!
Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A IRS
http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From dave at ranteer.com  Thu May 31 10:24:20 2012
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Thu, 31 May 2012 11:24:20 -0500
Subject: [TR] Brake Fluid?
In-Reply-To: <1338480524.83517.YahooMailNeo@web120205.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <F8F826C253EE403388AA64838C391FA0@DaveLaptop>
	<1338480524.83517.YahooMailNeo@web120205.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <6D2B35C001824716A2941B3A554F421B@ranteer.local>

been using silicon numerous years on numerous cars.  doesn't absorb water 
(is not hygroscopic) and doesn't mess with paint.  gotta be a little more 
careful when filling and bleeding (use speed bleeders!!).  I don't know why 
anyone would use dot 3/4 and risk paint damage and have to bleed every year 
or two.

I bought a master a couple years ago and saw that warning.  talked to a 
contact at moss, and he said the problem was that people were not full 
cleaning out their brake systems, mixing dot 3/4/5 and getting into trouble. 
so that's why the disclaimer/warranty issue.  he said there is no reason 
whatsoever not to use silicone on the new brake cylinders.

-----Original Message----- 
From: Frank Fisher
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2012 11:08 AM
To: Dave Connitt ; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Brake Fluid?

Dave
i saw all the warning signs on warranties but decided i was going to try
silicone on my TR3. 

From spitlist at cox.net  Thu May 31 10:38:14 2012
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Thu, 31 May 2012 09:38:14 -0700
Subject: [TR] Brake Fluid?
In-Reply-To: <6D2B35C001824716A2941B3A554F421B@ranteer.local>
References: <F8F826C253EE403388AA64838C391FA0@DaveLaptop><1338480524.83517.YahooMailNeo@web120205.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<6D2B35C001824716A2941B3A554F421B@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <41FE1F56873845F384F2B161290ED253@Vista>

"Doesn't mess with paint" is a bit of a misconception.  While it does not
eat the paint like The DOT 3 does, it very much messes with paint.  What
causes the master cylinder to belch fluid onto the paint does not change and
the DOT 5 will seep, or leak onto the paint.  It can be wiped away leaving
the paint intact, but if you ever need to paint that area in the future, you
will have a really difficult time cleaning all the DOT 5 off the surface
enough to keep the new paint from fisheyeing.

Hopefully you won't need to repaint.

JOe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2012 9:24 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Brake Fluid?

been using silicon numerous years on numerous cars.  doesn't absorb water 
(is not hygroscopic) and doesn't mess with paint.  gotta be a little more 
careful when filling and bleeding (use speed bleeders!!).  I don't know why 
anyone would use dot 3/4 and risk paint damage and have to bleed every year 
or two.

I bought a master a couple years ago and saw that warning.  talked to a 
contact at moss, and he said the problem was that people were not full 
cleaning out their brake systems, mixing dot 3/4/5 and getting into trouble.

so that's why the disclaimer/warranty issue.  he said there is no reason 
whatsoever not to use silicone on the new brake cylinders.

-----Original Message----- 
From: Frank Fisher
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2012 11:08 AM
To: Dave Connitt ; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Brake Fluid?

Dave
i saw all the warning signs on warranties but decided i was going to try
silicone on my TR3. 

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From arakelianp at mossmotors.com  Thu May 31 11:05:12 2012
From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Pete Arakelian)
Date: Thu, 31 May 2012 10:05:12 -0700
Subject: [TR] brake fluid
Message-ID: <4D4FABA15328FC42B1AA0DEE4673548C86F7FD34FC@DR-EX-04.datacenter.dataresolution.net>

I have previously checked with TRW, the current manufacturer of Girling
cylinders about the silicone issue.  There response was that the cylinders are
designed to meet OE spec's which call for non-silicone fluid.  They therefore
will not warranty a failure if non-spec fluid is used.
Also Castrol/Girling LMA fluid is a synthetic fluid - always has been.  They
only recently started putting that on the bottles - I checked on that too.

Peter Arakelian - 71 TR6

From wbeech at flash.net  Thu May 31 11:14:24 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Thu, 31 May 2012 12:14:24 -0500
Subject: [TR] Looking for Jim Donick
Message-ID: <D05E04D1D94840BD87011D964ACB170C@bboffice>

Sorry to bomb the list, if Jim Donick is on this distribution please contact
me off-line.  I believe I just bought an old TR3 of yours.
 
Regards,
Bill
 
Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L
www.triumphowners.com/1566 <http://www.triumphowners.com/1566> 
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Hello, my name is Bill and I own an old British car.  Now...What are the
next 11 steps?"

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Thu May 31 11:24:56 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Thu, 31 May 2012 10:24:56 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <4D4FABA15328FC42B1AA0DEE4673548C86F7FD34FC@DR-EX-04.datacenter.dataresolution.net>
References: <4D4FABA15328FC42B1AA0DEE4673548C86F7FD34FC@DR-EX-04.datacenter.dataresolution.net>
Message-ID: <1338485096.75416.YahooMailNeo@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

as stated in my previous mail, i know there is no warranty.
but will
Castrol/Girling LMA synthetic fluid still take the paint off the parts it
touches? 
i think yes.
also why would you not produce "new" spec parts.
wont a
new spec part work for all fluiffs?
and as the rubber parts are hidden well
away from the eye, one would not notice even if one where smart enough to be
able to tell the difference.
Frank

From: Pete Arakelian
<arakelianp at mossmotors.com>
To: "'triumphs at autox.team.net'"
<triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2012 10:05 AM
Subject: [TR]
brake fluid

I have previously checked with TRW, the current manufacturer of
Girling
cylinders about the silicone issue.  There response was that the
cylinders are
designed to meet OE spec's which call for non-silicone fluid. 
They therefore
will not warranty a failure if non-spec fluid is used.
Also
Castrol/Girling LMA fluid is a synthetic fluid - always has been.  They
only
recently started putting that on the bottles - I checked on that too.

Peter
Arakelian - 71 TR6

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From levilevi at comcast.net  Thu May 31 11:30:23 2012
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Thu, 31 May 2012 11:30:23 -0600
Subject: [TR] Brake Fluid?
In-Reply-To: <6D2B35C001824716A2941B3A554F421B@ranteer.local>
References: <F8F826C253EE403388AA64838C391FA0@DaveLaptop>
	<1338480524.83517.YahooMailNeo@web120205.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<6D2B35C001824716A2941B3A554F421B@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <5E12C1BB-2EE7-43E5-A82B-187D4E09AC5B@comcast.net>

The mixing thing with DOT 3 and 4 hasn't caused me any problems for  
over a decade. When I switched to silicone I simply drained the old  
out and poured in the NAPA silicone I prefer (because it has a cool  
purple color).  Never had an issue.


Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net




On May 31, 2012, at 10:24 AM, Dave wrote:

> been using silicon numerous years on numerous cars.  doesn't absorb  
> water (is not hygroscopic) and doesn't mess with paint.  gotta be a  
> little more careful when filling and bleeding (use speed  
> bleeders!!).  I don't know why anyone would use dot 3/4 and risk  
> paint damage and have to bleed every year or two.
>
> I bought a master a couple years ago and saw that warning.  talked  
> to a contact at moss, and he said the problem was that people were  
> not full cleaning out their brake systems, mixing dot 3/4/5 and  
> getting into trouble. so that's why the disclaimer/warranty issue.   
> he said there is no reason whatsoever not to use silicone on the new  
> brake cylinders.
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Frank Fisher
> Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2012 11:08 AM
> To: Dave Connitt ; triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] Brake Fluid?
>
> Dave
> i saw all the warning signs on warranties but decided i was going to  
> try
> silicone on my TR3.
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From pethier at comcast.net  Thu May 31 11:35:18 2012
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 31 May 2012 17:35:18 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Brake Fluid?
In-Reply-To: <F8F826C253EE403388AA64838C391FA0@DaveLaptop>
Message-ID: <1506498925.531473.1338485718047.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

"Synthetic" and DOT 5 are not the same thing.  There are "synthetic" DOT 4 brake fluids, notably Valvoline.  I can't imagine how a synthetic DOT 4 would harm a DOT 4 system, but I am open to education.

In perhaps the most idiotic decision in the history of bureaucracy, the DOT has created a designation of DOT 5.(something I can't remember)  which is NOT silicone and NOT compatible with silicone.

While Silicone does not take on water, it surely takes on air bubbles.  Not going there with my Elise.  Currently using ATE Blue.  My appliance cars are on DOT 4.  I really don't care whether it is GT/LMA, ATE Blue or Valvoline Synthetic.

uncle jack the Stag was put together by ISOA to run DOT 5 silicone.  I have labeled the reservoirs thus.  No reason to change that.  The non-paint-eating is good, and so far I have not had air problems on a car that I don't drive competitively.



Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://www.mnautox.com

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Thu May 31 11:55:52 2012
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh)
Date: Thu, 31 May 2012 10:55:52 -0700
Subject: [TR] Brake Fluid?
In-Reply-To: <1338480524.83517.YahooMailNeo@web120205.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <F8F826C253EE403388AA64838C391FA0@DaveLaptop>
	<1338480524.83517.YahooMailNeo@web120205.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <29420BE7-36CD-42D8-AD2D-9577393F9F85@comcast.net>

There is a distinct difference between Synthetic Fluif, and Silicone Fluif 
As Peter stated Castrol has been "Synthetic" for a long time  It may be
easier to think of Castrol as Synthetic DOT 3, and Silicone as DOT 4.

On May 31, 2012, at 9:08 AM, Frank Fisher wrote:

> Dave
> i saw all the warning signs on warranties but decided i was going to try
> silicone on my TR3.
> I'm so glad i did.
> some of my joints leaked onto my newly
> painted car.



Bill Pugh
1957 TR3 "Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA
anabil007 at comcast.net

From dctr6 at optonline.net  Thu May 31 12:04:17 2012
From: dctr6 at optonline.net (Dennis Culligan)
Date: Thu, 31 May 2012 14:04:17 -0400
Subject: [TR]  "As it left the Factory" Wish us luck ????
Message-ID: <001b01cd3f57$cc3459e0$649d0da0$@net>

John Macartney wrote:

>snip

>Mike (my old chum) and I have been busy preparing the 250 for its debut in 

>a group called "As It Left The Factory."

>snip

>6. The red and white indicator lenses are back in place to temporarily 

<replace the yellow ones of a TR5

 

John - 

Did you then place the extra keys inside one of the front turn signals?

 

Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U (w/ 150,000 miles)

 

 

------------------------------

 

_______________________________________________

 

Triumphs mailing list

Triumphs at autox.team.net

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

 

 

End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 5, Issue 232

****************************************

From pethier at comcast.net  Thu May 31 12:04:46 2012
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 31 May 2012 18:04:46 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Brake Fluid?
In-Reply-To: <29420BE7-36CD-42D8-AD2D-9577393F9F85@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1201326546.533131.1338487486873.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

----- Original Message -----
> From: "William Pugh" <anabil007 at comcast.net>
> To: "Frank Fisher" <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>
> Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2012 12:55:52 PM
> Subject: Re: [TR] Brake Fluid?
> There is a distinct difference between Synthetic Fluif, and Silicone
> Fluif
> As Peter stated Castrol has been "Synthetic" for a long time It may be
> easier to think of Castrol as Synthetic DOT 3, and Silicone as DOT 4.

Silicone is DOT 5, and not compatible with any other brake fluid.


Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://www.mnautox.com

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu May 31 12:41:36 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 31 May 2012 11:41:36 -0700
Subject: [TR] Brake Fluid?
In-Reply-To: <41FE1F56873845F384F2B161290ED253@Vista>
References: <F8F826C253EE403388AA64838C391FA0@DaveLaptop><1338480524.83517.YahooMailNeo@web120205.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<6D2B35C001824716A2941B3A554F421B@ranteer.local>
	<41FE1F56873845F384F2B161290ED253@Vista>
Message-ID: <0bde01cd3f5d$05d7ce70$11876b50$@rr.com>

> but if you ever need to paint that area in the
> future, you
> will have a really difficult time cleaning all the DOT 5 off the
> surface
> enough to keep the new paint from fisheyeing.

However, there are products available specifically to address this problem.
One such is PPG DX330 "Acryli-Clean", which is a solvent specifically
designed to remove silicone and silicone-bearing products (like the "hot
wax" available at many car washes).  Seems to work well for me.

Another problem that I have noticed is that it is easy to wind up with
microscopic drops of silicone floating around in the air.  You need either
really good ventilation, or to do the painting in an area away from where
you did the preparation.

I'm a big fan of DOT 5, been using it for many years in all my Triumphs.  It
has not totally eliminated all my hydraulic problems; but I do believe it
has greatly reduced them.  It is absolutely non-corrosive and actually helps
protect metal surfaces; while DOT 3/4 is actively corrosive if it doesn't
get changed on a regular basis (whether you drive the car or not).  With DOT
5, you'll never find a sight like this one:

http://goo.gl/rJXMw

-- Randall 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu May 31 12:57:42 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 31 May 2012 11:57:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] Brake Fluid?
In-Reply-To: <1201326546.533131.1338487486873.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <29420BE7-36CD-42D8-AD2D-9577393F9F85@comcast.net>
	<1201326546.533131.1338487486873.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <0bdf01cd3f5f$42cb5fc0$c8621f40$@rr.com>

> Silicone is DOT 5, and not compatible with any other brake fluid.

Actually it is "compatible" (the DOT 5 standard requires it), it just
doesn't mix with them.  Any DOT 3/4 remaining in the system will stay
separate, and continue to deteriorate; eventually winding up as a tarry goo
in dead zones (like the bottom of the slave cylinders).

The goo is ugly, but at least in my experience, relatively harmless.  I
haven't seen any evidence that it was continuing to corrode the alloy slave
cylinders or interfering with operation in any way.  One curiosity though,
it sucks all the purple dye out of the DOT 5, leaving it nearly clear.

I did my first DOT 5 conversion with flushing the lines and so on; but ever
since then I've just bled through until I get purple fluid at the bleed
valve.  For example, I did that on a non-Triumph at 80,000 miles after one
of the front calipers had started to leak and been replaced.  The entire
remainder of the system never got touched again and was still working fine
when I junked the car at about 250,000 miles.

YMMV of course.  I won't claim it isn't better to completely tear down the
system, flush the lines and replace all the seals; just that in my
experience it is not necessary.

-- Randall 

From spitlist at cox.net  Thu May 31 12:59:04 2012
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Thu, 31 May 2012 11:59:04 -0700
Subject: [TR] Brake Fluid?
In-Reply-To: <0bde01cd3f5d$05d7ce70$11876b50$@rr.com>
References: <F8F826C253EE403388AA64838C391FA0@DaveLaptop><1338480524.83517.YahooMailNeo@web120205.mail.ne1.yahoo.com><6D2B35C001824716A2941B3A554F421B@ranteer.local><41FE1F56873845F384F2B161290ED253@Vista>
	<0bde01cd3f5d$05d7ce70$11876b50$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <66296D910C7645D4903A706F02A3A778@Vista>

I can say without hesitation that PPG's Acryli-clean will not remove the DOT
5 silicon fluid remnants sufficiently to prevent fisheyes from forming.  I
learned this when I converted Tiny Tim from an autocross car to a street
rod.

I have been told that one of the only things that will remove it is to use a
lot of powdered cleanser, water and elbow grease.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2012 11:42 AM
To: 'Dave'; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Brake Fluid?

> but if you ever need to paint that area in the
> future, you
> will have a really difficult time cleaning all the DOT 5 off the
> surface
> enough to keep the new paint from fisheyeing.

However, there are products available specifically to address this problem.
One such is PPG DX330 "Acryli-Clean", which is a solvent specifically
designed to remove silicone and silicone-bearing products (like the "hot
wax" available at many car washes).  Seems to work well for me.

Another problem that I have noticed is that it is easy to wind up with
microscopic drops of silicone floating around in the air.  You need either
really good ventilation, or to do the painting in an area away from where
you did the preparation.

I'm a big fan of DOT 5, been using it for many years in all my Triumphs.  It
has not totally eliminated all my hydraulic problems; but I do believe it
has greatly reduced them.  It is absolutely non-corrosive and actually helps
protect metal surfaces; while DOT 3/4 is actively corrosive if it doesn't
get changed on a regular basis (whether you drive the car or not).  With DOT
5, you'll never find a sight like this one:

http://goo.gl/rJXMw

-- Randall 

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From ptegler at verizon.net  Thu May 31 13:05:47 2012
From: ptegler at verizon.net (ptegler at verizon.net)
Date: Thu, 31 May 2012 14:05:47 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] Brake Fluid?
Message-ID: <30471752.187279.1338491147555.JavaMail.root@vznit170132>

 Joe is quite correct as usual.
Even after a wipe down...then leaving a layer of Brak-kleen on the surface, does not seem to clear all traces of Silicon fluid.

In a paint shop even opening a tube of silicon sealer near a car being prepe'ed will get most flunkies kicked out of a shop!
 
 
 Paul Tegler 
ptegler at verizon.net 
www.teglerizer.com

On 05/31/12, Joe Curry wrote:

I can say without hesitation that PPG's Acryli-clean will not remove the DOT
5 silicon fluid remnants sufficiently to prevent fisheyes from forming. I
learned this when I converted Tiny Tim from an autocross car to a street
rod.

I have been told that one of the only things that will remove it is to use a
lot of powdered cleanser, water and elbow grease.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2012 11:42 AM
To: 'Dave'; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Brake Fluid?

> but if you ever need to paint that area in the
> future, you
> will have a really difficult time cleaning all the DOT 5 off the
> surface
> enough to keep the new paint from fisheyeing.

However, there are products available specifically to address this problem.
One such is PPG DX330 "Acryli-Clean", which is a solvent specifically
designed to remove silicone and silicone-bearing products (like the "hot
wax" available at many car washes). Seems to work well for me.

Another problem that I have noticed is that it is easy to wind up with
microscopic drops of silicone floating around in the air. You need either
really good ventilation, or to do the painting in an area away from where
you did the preparation.

I'm a big fan of DOT 5, been using it for many years in all my Triumphs. It
has not totally eliminated all my hydraulic problems; but I do believe it
has greatly reduced them. It is absolutely non-corrosive and actually helps
protect metal surfaces; while DOT 3/4 is actively corrosive if it doesn't
get changed on a regular basis (whether you drive the car or not). With DOT
5, you'll never find a sight like this one:

http://goo.gl/rJXMw

-- Randall 

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu May 31 13:06:49 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 31 May 2012 12:06:49 -0700
Subject: [TR] brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <1338485096.75416.YahooMailNeo@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <4D4FABA15328FC42B1AA0DEE4673548C86F7FD34FC@DR-EX-04.datacenter.dataresolution.net>
	<1338485096.75416.YahooMailNeo@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <0be001cd3f60$88988680$99c99380$@rr.com>

> but will
> Castrol/Girling LMA synthetic fluid still take the paint off the parts
> it touches?

Yes.  As Peter said, it is not actually any different than before, Castrol
(and other fluid manufacturers) have simply added the word "Synthetic" to
the label; apparently because many consumers believe that synthetic is
better.  But in fact, no brake fluid is based on petroleum at all, so they
are all "synthetic" and always have been, it just didn't say so on the label
before.

Besides, Castrol won a court case saying, in effect, that any petroleum
product that comes from a modern refinery is "synthetic" and can be sold as
such.


> also why would you not produce "new" spec parts.

Because if you update the specifications, you have to do expensive,
complicated tests to ensure that the new specification parts work under all
circumstances.  In addition, there is a significant additional legal
liability, in case someone claims that your new specifications are deficient
in some way.

Unless you have customers willing to pay many times the price (remember we
are a very limited market) for parts with updated specifications; it simply
does not make financial sense to do so.

-- Randall 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu May 31 14:42:05 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 31 May 2012 13:42:05 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 manifold Studs
In-Reply-To: <CANzE1bE2L7yEHHjXg1MJjJxVaLY9-qmANU9RnUO9bRWCaQtA3Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <mailman.1921.1338463961.22195.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<4FC79402.9080704@dimebank.com>
	<CANzE1bE2L7yEHHjXg1MJjJxVaLY9-qmANU9RnUO9bRWCaQtA3Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <0beb01cd3f6d$d78f72a0$86ae57e0$@rr.com>

> FWIW, a local auto parts place (small local chain -- think Carquest
> rather
> than Autozone) still has them.  I used them but I was thinking the
> originals were tall steel.

Ditto.  I found the tall brass nuts on one of those "Help!" racks, in a
package of 3 nuts and 3 studs.  Apparently some Chevy V8s use them on the
exhaust manifold to headpipe joint.

But I prefer the original steel nuts, with a smear of copper-based
anti-seize on the threads (in place of the original copper plate).

-- Randall 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu May 31 15:16:55 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 31 May 2012 14:16:55 -0700
Subject: [TR] Brake Fluid?
In-Reply-To: <66296D910C7645D4903A706F02A3A778@Vista>
References: <F8F826C253EE403388AA64838C391FA0@DaveLaptop><1338480524.83517.YahooMailNeo@web120205.mail.ne1.yahoo.com><6D2B35C001824716A2941B3A554F421B@ranteer.local><41FE1F56873845F384F2B161290ED253@Vista>
	<0bde01cd3f5d$05d7ce70$11876b50$@rr.com>
	<66296D910C7645D4903A706F02A3A778@Vista>
Message-ID: <0bef01cd3f72$b5609600$2021c200$@rr.com>

> I can say without hesitation that PPG's Acryli-clean will not remove
> the DOT
> 5 silicon fluid remnants sufficiently to prevent fisheyes from forming.

I asked the professionals that did my TR3 what they used.  Although there
are certainly other flaws (as I expected from a cheap paint job), there are
no fish eyes.  Evidently it works as well for them as it does for me.

Of course, it's no substitute for good surface preparation otherwise.  As I
learned many years ago, you can sand, and wire brush, and media blast, and
still not get all the silicone off.  But when you think you have the surface
absolutely clean, take a clean rag dampened with Arcyli-clean and wipe it
down.  The rag will be dirty.  Repeat until the rag is clean.

-- Randall 

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Thu May 31 15:22:11 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Thu, 31 May 2012 14:22:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR4 manifold Studs
In-Reply-To: <0beb01cd3f6d$d78f72a0$86ae57e0$@rr.com>
References: <mailman.1921.1338463961.22195.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<4FC79402.9080704@dimebank.com>
	<CANzE1bE2L7yEHHjXg1MJjJxVaLY9-qmANU9RnUO9bRWCaQtA3Q@mail.gmail.com>
	<0beb01cd3f6d$d78f72a0$86ae57e0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <1338499331.48967.YahooMailNeo@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

having lost tall brass nuts 3 times in 3 years, i changed to steel nuts
doubled. 
so far no more exhaust noise. well not the nasty noise, just the
sweet roar.
Frank

From: Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: 
Cc:
triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2012 1:42 PM
Subject: Re:
[TR] TR4 manifold Studs

> FWIW, a local auto parts place (small local chain
-- think Carquest
> rather
> than Autozone) still has them.  I used them but I
was thinking the
> originals were tall steel.

Ditto.  I found the tall brass
nuts on one of those "Help!" racks, in a
package of 3 nuts and 3 studs. 
Apparently some Chevy V8s use them on the
exhaust manifold to headpipe joint.
But I prefer the original steel nuts, with a smear of copper-based
anti-seize
on the threads (in place of the original copper plate).

-- Randall 

**
triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Thu May 31 15:23:40 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Thu, 31 May 2012 14:23:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Brake Fluid?
In-Reply-To: <66296D910C7645D4903A706F02A3A778@Vista>
References: <F8F826C253EE403388AA64838C391FA0@DaveLaptop><1338480524.83517.YahooMailNeo@web120205.mail.ne1.yahoo.com><6D2B35C001824716A2941B3A554F421B@ranteer.local><41FE1F56873845F384F2B161290ED253@Vista>
	<0bde01cd3f5d$05d7ce70$11876b50$@rr.com>
	<66296D910C7645D4903A706F02A3A778@Vista>
Message-ID: <1338499420.67540.YahooMailNeo@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Joe
did sanding with a fine wet/dry paper with a detergent in the water not
help?
Frank

From: Joe Curry <spitlist at cox.net>
To: 'Randall'
<tr3driver at ca.rr.com>; 'Dave' <dave at ranteer.com>; triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2012 11:59 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Brake Fluid?

I can
say without hesitation that PPG's Acryli-clean will not remove the DOT
5
silicon fluid remnants sufficiently to prevent fisheyes from forming.  I
learned this when I converted Tiny Tim from an autocross car to a street
rod.
I have been told that one of the only things that will remove it is to use a
lot of powdered cleanser, water and elbow grease.

Joe

-----Original
Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Thursday,
May 31, 2012 11:42 AM
To: 'Dave'; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR]
Brake Fluid?

> but if you ever need to paint that area in the
> future, you
>
will have a really difficult time cleaning all the DOT 5 off the
> surface
>
enough to keep the new paint from fisheyeing.

However, there are products
available specifically to address this problem.
One such is PPG DX330
"Acryli-Clean", which is a solvent specifically
designed to remove silicone
and silicone-bearing products (like the "hot
wax" available at many car
washes).  Seems to work well for me.

Another problem that I have noticed is
that it is easy to wind up with
microscopic drops of silicone floating around
in the air.  You need either
really good ventilation, or to do the painting in
an area away from where
you did the preparation.

I'm a big fan of DOT 5, been
using it for many years in all my Triumphs.  It
has not totally eliminated all
my hydraulic problems; but I do believe it
has greatly reduced them.  It is
absolutely non-corrosive and actually helps
protect metal surfaces; while DOT
3/4 is actively corrosive if it doesn't
get changed on a regular basis
(whether you drive the car or not).  With DOT
5, you'll never find a sight
like this one:

http://goo.gl/rJXMw

-- Randall 

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From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com  Thu May 31 15:41:41 2012
From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad)
Date: Thu, 31 May 2012 14:41:41 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Brake Fluid?
In-Reply-To: <0bef01cd3f72$b5609600$2021c200$@rr.com>
References: <F8F826C253EE403388AA64838C391FA0@DaveLaptop><1338480524.83517.YahooMailNeo@web120205.mail.ne1.yahoo.com><6D2B35C001824716A2941B3A554F421B@ranteer.local><41FE1F56873845F384F2B161290ED253@Vista>
	<0bde01cd3f5d$05d7ce70$11876b50$@rr.com>
	<66296D910C7645D4903A706F02A3A778@Vista>
	<0bef01cd3f72$b5609600$2021c200$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <1338500501.81182.YahooMailNeo@web120506.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

I've had very good success using PPG's  DX330 to remove silicones.

Chad in
Tulsa



________________________________
 From: Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2012 4:16 PM
Subject: Re:
[TR] Brake Fluid?
 
> I can say without hesitation that PPG's Acryli-clean
will not remove
> the DOT
> 5 silicon fluid remnants sufficiently to prevent
fisheyes from forming.

I asked the professionals that did my TR3 what they
used.  Although there
are certainly other flaws (as I expected from a cheap
paint job), there are
no fish eyes.  Evidently it works as well for them as it
does for me.

Of course, it's no substitute for good surface preparation
otherwise.  As I
learned many years ago, you can sand, and wire brush, and
media blast, and
still not get all the silicone off.  But when you think you
have the surface
absolutely clean, take a clean rag dampened with Arcyli-clean
and wipe it
down.  The rag will be dirty.  Repeat until the rag is clean.

--
Randall 

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Thu May 31 15:53:30 2012
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Thu, 31 May 2012 17:53:30 -0400
Subject: [TR] brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <0be001cd3f60$88988680$99c99380$@rr.com>
References: <4D4FABA15328FC42B1AA0DEE4673548C86F7FD34FC@DR-EX-04.datacenter.dataresolution.net>
	<1338485096.75416.YahooMailNeo@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<0be001cd3f60$88988680$99c99380$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <CAPK7CFDELvfGCu9a09wPcq_p4SvfZLQviSERobrv9AsQkqP46Q@mail.gmail.com>

If "synthetic" fluids are not based on petroleum, then what are they based
on?  I always thought synthetic meant polymerized from monomers to some
very specific structure rather than simple mineral oil with little
modification. The base of most monomers is still petroleum. Maybe natural
gas.  Tiny amounts from renewable bio-based sources. Yes, synthetic sounds
good these days, though.

Don
1962 TR3B TSF202L

On Thursday, May 31, 2012, Randall wrote:

> > but will
> > Castrol/Girling LMA synthetic fluid still take the paint off the parts
> > it touches?
>
> Yes.  As Peter said, it is not actually any different than before, Castrol
> (and other fluid manufacturers) have simply added the word "Synthetic" to
> the label; apparently because many consumers believe that synthetic is
> better.  But in fact, no brake fluid is based on petroleum at all, so they
> are all "synthetic" and always have been, it just didn't say so on the
> label
> before.
>
> Besides, Castrol won a court case saying, in effect, that any petroleum
> product that comes from a modern refinery is "synthetic" and can be sold as
> such.
>
>
> > also why would you not produce "new" spec parts.
>
> Because if you update the specifications, you have to do expensive,
> complicated tests to ensure that the new specification parts work under all
> circumstances.  In addition, there is a significant additional legal
> liability, in case someone claims that your new specifications are
> deficient
> in some way.
>
> Unless you have customers willing to pay many times the price (remember we
> are a very limited market) for parts with updated specifications; it simply
> does not make financial sense to do so.
>
> -- Randall
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net <javascript:;> **
>
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From edwd at ti.com  Thu May 31 16:08:50 2012
From: edwd at ti.com (Fisher, Ed)
Date: Thu, 31 May 2012 22:08:50 +0000
Subject: [TR] fisheyes in paint
Message-ID: <67A276399E247245AC2050FC103C4E8A3E303F4F@DLEE01.ent.ti.com>

Years ago, when I last sprayed color on a car, I used "Smoothie", a drop or
two in each quart cup on the gun.  It is a fisheye preventative, and I was
taught to use it in the 1970s, in a filthy little body shop where I worked.  I
now see where that is a real controversy on the web, go figure, but when one
doesn't have a booth, and is trying to clean up a two-car garage for painting
using box fans for exhaust, furnace filters for intake, and plastic doors with
taped hatches you can be sure that there are stray contaminants in the air.
Smoothie cures them.  By the way, those jobs out of the two-car garage came
out looking great, almost no dirt at all in the paint and what there was came
out readily with a wet color sand and buffer.  I had very patient neighbors
who were amused at my bushes that turned from red to blue to yellow etc.  I
always alerted them as to when I was spraying, and moved their cars to the
next block to ensure no overspray problems.  We all got along really well...

Ed Fisher
Dallas, Tx