From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Mar 1 05:54:11 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2012 07:54:11 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] A BMW Triumph?? Message-ID: <1492e.2fa89ed7.3c80cb73@cs.com> In a message dated 2/29/2012 6:29:59 PM Central Standard Time, v6spitfireguy at cox.net writes: > > http://www.autoblog.com/2012/02/29/bmw-planning-to-revive-triumph/?icid=main > g-grid7|main5|dl19|sec3_lnk1%26pLid%3D139609 Aptly named "Rumor Mill" me thinks. I think the statement about all manner of Triumph branded products is more likely, but I already have a box full of Triumph Christmas Tree ornaments. I know, How about Triumph BEER?!! Oh, wait: http://www.triumphbrewing.com/ Davie (No, not Jones) From JPayne at ThorCon.net Thu Mar 1 08:26:35 2012 From: JPayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne) Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2012 15:26:35 +0000 Subject: [TR] A BMW Triumph?? In-Reply-To: <380-2201234103049526@M2W127.mail2web.com> References: <380-2201234103049526@M2W127.mail2web.com> Message-ID: <5891B364A7C3594B9466304B59E65B1C03A3E299@ex1mbx01.onthenetoffice.com> What happens with the Triumph Motorcycle brand and name then? Jonas Payne Vice President of Preconstruction Thor Construction PH: (702) 269-2007 Fax: (702) 269-7095 Cell: (702) 358-5084 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of v6spitfireguy at cox.net Sent: Wednesday, February 29, 2012 4:31 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Cc: spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] A BMW Triumph?? I know that it's been discussed before - but... Just saw this on AOL news - along with the sad news that Davy Jones passed away. Just reminds me of how old I'm getting.... http://www.autoblog.com/2012/02/29/bmw-planning-to-revive-triumph/?icid=main g-grid7|main5|dl19|sec3_lnk1%26pLid%3D139609 -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://link.mail2web.com/mail2web ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jpayne at thorcon.net From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Mar 1 08:47:37 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2012 07:47:37 -0800 Subject: [TR] A BMW Triumph?? In-Reply-To: <5891B364A7C3594B9466304B59E65B1C03A3E299@ex1mbx01.onthenetoffice.com> References: <380-2201234103049526@M2W127.mail2web.com> <5891B364A7C3594B9466304B59E65B1C03A3E299@ex1mbx01.onthenetoffice.com> Message-ID: <036701ccf7c2$a1287100$0301a8c0@randall> > What happens with the Triumph Motorcycle brand and name then? Should go on belonging to Triumph Motorcycles Limited. They were a totally separate company long before BMW bought the Triumph (car) name. (Since 1934? I forget offhand) But who knows what BMW will do? They might decide they want to build Triumph motorcycles as well, and buy out the current owners. -- Randall From wbeech at flash.net Thu Mar 1 08:56:44 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2012 09:56:44 -0600 Subject: [TR] A BMW Triumph?? In-Reply-To: <5891B364A7C3594B9466304B59E65B1C03A3E299@ex1mbx01.onthenetoffice.com> References: <380-2201234103049526@M2W127.mail2web.com> <5891B364A7C3594B9466304B59E65B1C03A3E299@ex1mbx01.onthenetoffice.com> Message-ID: <9EF1E555BD5A469D8E9968D04A8DFAD6@bboffice> That's totally independent since 1936 when they sold the motorcycle business off. After more financial problems Standard Motor Co. bought Triumph Motor Co in 1944. Interesting note: Donald Healy ran the business in 1939-40. Thank you Wikipedia, Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jonas Payne Sent: Thursday, March 01, 2012 9:27 AM To: 'v6spitfireguy at cox.net'; 'triumphs at autox.team.net' Cc: 'spitfires at autox.team.net' Subject: Re: [TR] A BMW Triumph?? What happens with the Triumph Motorcycle brand and name then? Jonas Payne Vice President of Preconstruction Thor Construction PH: (702) 269-2007 Fax: (702) 269-7095 Cell: (702) 358-5084 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of v6spitfireguy at cox.net Sent: Wednesday, February 29, 2012 4:31 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Cc: spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] A BMW Triumph?? I know that it's been discussed before - but... Just saw this on AOL news - along with the sad news that Davy Jones passed away. Just reminds me of how old I'm getting.... http://www.autoblog.com/2012/02/29/bmw-planning-to-revive-triumph/?icid=main g-grid7|main5|dl19|sec3_lnk1%26pLid%3D139609 -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://link.mail2web.com/mail2web ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jpayne at thorcon.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From ccgunn1010 at hotmail.com Thu Mar 1 08:58:47 2012 From: ccgunn1010 at hotmail.com (David Gunn) Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2012 07:58:47 -0800 Subject: [TR] A BMW Triumph?? In-Reply-To: <1492e.2fa89ed7.3c80cb73@cs.com> References: <1492e.2fa89ed7.3c80cb73@cs.com> Message-ID: Or Triumph Lingerie?? In the UK? http://uk.triumph.com/ > From: Dave1massey at cs.com > Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2012 07:54:11 -0500 > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] A BMW Triumph?? > > In a message dated 2/29/2012 6:29:59 PM Central Standard Time, > v6spitfireguy at cox.net writes: > > > > http://www.autoblog.com/2012/02/29/bmw-planning-to-revive-triumph/?icid=main > > g-grid7|main5|dl19|sec3_lnk1%26pLid%3D139609 > > Aptly named "Rumor Mill" me thinks. > > I think the statement about all manner of Triumph branded products is more > likely, but I already have a box full of Triumph Christmas Tree ornaments. > > I know, How about Triumph BEER?!! > > Oh, wait: http://www.triumphbrewing.com/ > > Davie (No, not Jones) > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ccgunn1010 at hotmail.com From agraham at execulink.com Thu Mar 1 09:02:08 2012 From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham) Date: Thu, 01 Mar 2012 11:02:08 -0500 Subject: [TR] Headlight replacement Message-ID: <4F4F9D80.6090606@execulink.com> Hello List: A new wiring harness on my TR2 has required replacing the original Lucas P700 headlights & bulbs with something that will accept the more 'modern' three blade headlight connectors. Want something a bit better than the North American style sealed beam unit. I understand that the new Lucas Tripod replacements are very poor quality. Any advice on how to proceed? I understand many of the H4 conversions for 7" round lenses are pretty scarse - i.e. Cibe & Marchal. What have other listers used? Thanks for any help with this. Angelo Graham From tr3a.60 at gmail.com Thu Mar 1 09:29:54 2012 From: tr3a.60 at gmail.com (John Wise) Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2012 11:29:54 -0500 Subject: [TR] Headlight replacement In-Reply-To: <4F4F9D80.6090606@execulink.com> References: <4F4F9D80.6090606@execulink.com> Message-ID: <8C8A910D-EC05-4544-ABBD-0F0004A07C3F@gmail.com> I use H-4 head lights on both by TR3A & my Porsche 911S. I highly recommend them for the great light pattern -- a nice clean & crisp top of light that goes up on the right side to illuminate road signs. I use a high output bulbs with a color something toward the blue end of the spectrum (not the very blue lights). The blueish color has a theoretical advantage because human eyes become more sensitive to the blue end of the visual spectrum as they adapt to dark. This is known as the Purkinje Effect. If you are really interested see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Purkinje_effect Class Dismissed! ;-) John Professor of Human Factors Engineering Embry-Riddle Aeronautical University On 1 Mar, 2012, at 11:02 AM, Angelo Graham wrote: > Hello List: > A new wiring harness on my TR2 has required replacing the original Lucas P700 headlights & bulbs with something that will accept the more 'modern' three blade headlight connectors. Want something a bit better than the North American style sealed beam unit. I understand that the new Lucas Tripod replacements are very poor quality. > Any advice on how to proceed? I understand many of the H4 conversions for 7" round lenses are pretty scarse - i.e. Cibe & Marchal. > What have other listers used? > Thanks for any help with this. > Angelo Graham > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3a.60 at gmail.com John A. Wise Ormond Beach, FL 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Mar 1 10:25:07 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2012 09:25:07 -0800 Subject: [TR] Headlight replacement In-Reply-To: <4F4F9D80.6090606@execulink.com> References: <4F4F9D80.6090606@execulink.com> Message-ID: <038c01ccf7d0$3f9c5510$0301a8c0@randall> The Bosch H4 conversions seem to still be readily available. I got mine here: http://goo.gl/AtU9j They aren't quite as crisp at the edges as the Cibies; but still loads better than even halogen sealed beams, IMO, and the price is much lower. There are lots of other "economy" brands around as well. I tried some from eBay, which gave a really lousy light pattern and didn't fit the buckets properly. One of the bulbs failed within just a few days too (although the seller did provide a free replacement bulb, with only minor grumbling). If they are still being made, you should be able to get Cibie though http://goo.gl/BRisX Then of course you get to choose bulbs. To me, the high color temperature (blue/white) bulbs look kind of silly on a classic car. They do work a bit better for me, but only when it is totally dark (which is never the case around Los Angeles). And unless you have a high output alternator and upgraded headlight wiring with relays; I would recommend staying away from the "high power" bulbs. I'm currently running the cheap, standard 55/60 watt bulbs from BusDepot (first link above) and I'm quite happy with them. They draw about the same current as the sealed beam bulbs that were standard in the US (apparently a bit more than the original home market bulbs though). Here is a photo that tries to show the visual difference between the halogen H4 and standard tungsten bulbs. This was taken with my Stag, so they are 5-1/4" bulbs instead of 7"; and the H4 is a Cibie (from the second link above). http://goo.gl/TdlGj It doesn't really show well how much brighter the light is, but you can see how the H4 bulb puts more of it down on the street and less into the eyes of oncoming traffic (both lamps are properly aimed and the brown board is nearly level to the driveway. One last comment, I believe it should be possible to buy and graft on the connectors for your original P700 lamps. Another option might be a conversion bulb, to fit the existing lamps and take the new plug. I forget offhand who sells them, but I know I've seen them for sale. -- Randall From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Mar 1 11:58:50 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2012 13:58:50 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] A BMW Triumph?? Message-ID: <26fbe.4aaab6b6.3c8120e9@cs.com> In a message dated 3/1/2012 9:26:56 AM Central Standard Time, JPayne at ThorCon.net writes: > What happens with the Triumph Motorcycle brand and name then? It was spun off as a separate company which operated independently. Back in the pre-AR-Trademark-Rights days there didn't seem to be any confusion in the fact that one company made cars and the other made motorcycles. Kind of like why Wayne doesn't sue Homer for using his name. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Triumph_Engineering This article details the company's history (from the motorcycle viewpoint - I'm not so sure this jives with how the Standard folk view history). According to this account the prewar Triumph cars were a tag-a-long to the bicycle and motorcycle business. Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Mar 1 12:10:00 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2012 14:10:00 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Headlight replacement Message-ID: <276af.65561603.3c812388@cs.com> In a message dated 3/1/2012 10:06:48 AM Central Standard Time, agraham at execulink.com writes: > A new wiring harness on my TR2 has required replacing the original Lucas > P700 headlights &bulbs with something that will accept the more > 'modern' three blade headlight connectors. Want something a bit better > than the North American style sealed beam unit. I understand that the > new Lucas Tripod replacements are very poor quality. > Any advice on how to proceed? I understand many of the H4 conversions > for 7" round lenses are pretty scarse - i.e. Cibe &Marchal. > What have other listers used? > Thanks for any help with this. > Here in the states we can buy what is called "Sealed Beam Halogen" bulbs which externally look like the old style sealed beam headlights but contain a small quartz bulb inside (quartz-halogen). These bulbs use the same current but put out more light. And they cost about twice what a regular bulb costs which is still cheap compared to the H4 or the tribar style lights. And they are readily available at the FLAPS or even your local hardware stores. Dave From spitlist at cox.net Thu Mar 1 12:26:20 2012 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2012 12:26:20 -0700 Subject: [TR] Rick Kristoff Message-ID: <75AF79BD6E754A478333A3DD1CCAC9C1@Vista> Sorry to bomb the list, but would Rick Kristoff please contact me. Thanks, Joe Curry From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Mar 1 12:58:16 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2012 11:58:16 -0800 Subject: [TR] Headlight replacement In-Reply-To: <276af.65561603.3c812388@cs.com> References: <276af.65561603.3c812388@cs.com> Message-ID: <011a01ccf7e5$a586ad20$f0940760$@rr.com> > Here in the states we can buy what is called "Sealed Beam Halogen" > bulbs > which externally look like the old style sealed beam headlights but > contain a > small quartz bulb inside (quartz-halogen). And, at least in my experience, don't work as well (or last as long) as good H4 lamps. The light pattern they put out is the same as the old tungsten sealed beams. -- Randall From tr6parts at charter.net Thu Mar 1 15:07:09 2012 From: tr6parts at charter.net (tr6parts at charter.net) Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2012 17:07:09 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Tr6 17" tires Message-ID: <1340cdbd.38e082.135d04d6dba.Webtop.48@charter.net> I recently picked up some 17 inch rims that I'd like to put on a TR6. If anyone has done so, What size tire are you using? Thanks, Al From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Mar 1 15:17:31 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2012 17:17:31 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Headlight replacement Message-ID: <86fb3.28937fb.3c814f7b@cs.com> In a message dated 3/1/2012 1:58:25 PM Central Standard Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > >Here in the states we can buy what is called "Sealed Beam Halogen" > >bulbs > >which externally look like the old style sealed beam headlights but > >contain a > >small quartz bulb inside (quartz-halogen). > > And, at least in my experience, don't work as well (or last as long) as > good > H4 lamps. The light pattern they put out is the same as the old tungsten > sealed beams. > No, of course they aren't as good as the H4's but they are cheap and everywhere. I've had no issues about longevity, however. Dave From sumton at sbcglobal.net Thu Mar 1 15:57:40 2012 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (dave n) Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2012 16:57:40 -0600 Subject: [TR] A BMW Triumph?? In-Reply-To: References: <1492e.2fa89ed7.3c80cb73@cs.com> Message-ID: <29CC727B728348F3B43B424E08D394F0@ranteer.local> the ultimate triumph brand http://www.ranteer.com/misc/ (In Vicksburg, MS) > Or Triumph Lingerie?? In the UK? http://uk.triumph.com/ >> >> Aptly named "Rumor Mill" me thinks. >> >> I think the statement about all manner of Triumph branded products is >> more >> likely, but I already have a box full of Triumph Christmas Tree >> ornaments. >> >> I know, How about Triumph BEER?!! >> >> Oh, wait: http://www.triumphbrewing.com/ From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Thu Mar 1 16:29:38 2012 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2012 15:29:38 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] A BMW Triumph?? In-Reply-To: <29CC727B728348F3B43B424E08D394F0@ranteer.local> References: <1492e.2fa89ed7.3c80cb73@cs.com> <29CC727B728348F3B43B424E08D394F0@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <1330644578.36556.YahooMailNeo@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> might it look like this? http://www.brit.ca/~tboicey/comics/tr9.html Frank From wbeech at flash.net Thu Mar 1 16:49:29 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2012 17:49:29 -0600 Subject: [TR] A BMW Triumph?? In-Reply-To: <29CC727B728348F3B43B424E08D394F0@ranteer.local> References: <1492e.2fa89ed7.3c80cb73@cs.com> <29CC727B728348F3B43B424E08D394F0@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <6BE38F442E0F495F895BD90B8453DFB5@bboffice> Praise the Lord and pass the 20w-50w! BB -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of dave n Sent: Thursday, March 01, 2012 4:58 PM To: triumph list Subject: Re: [TR] A BMW Triumph?? the ultimate triumph brand http://www.ranteer.com/misc/ (In Vicksburg, MS) > Or Triumph Lingerie?? In the UK? http://uk.triumph.com/ >> >> Aptly named "Rumor Mill" me thinks. >> >> I think the statement about all manner of Triumph branded products is >> more likely, but I already have a box full of Triumph Christmas Tree >> ornaments. >> >> I know, How about Triumph BEER?!! >> >> Oh, wait: http://www.triumphbrewing.com/ ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Mar 1 19:48:26 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2012 21:48:26 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] A BMW Triumph?? Message-ID: In a message dated 3/1/2012 4:57:48 PM Central Standard Time, sumton at sbcglobal.net writes: > the ultimate triumph brand > > http://www.ranteer.com/misc/ > Amen and pass the Castrol. From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Mar 1 19:52:59 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2012 21:52:59 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] A BMW Triumph?? Message-ID: In a message dated 3/1/2012 5:29:47 PM Central Standard Time, yellowtr3 at yahoo.com writes: > might it look like this? > http://www.brit.ca/~tboicey/comics/tr9.html > Noh. This picture gel through a time warp from the year 3000. It was part of a museum display with the following description : "Triumph was a company that bult a car from 1850 to 2200." From sumton at sbcglobal.net Thu Mar 1 21:27:08 2012 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (dave n) Date: Thu, 1 Mar 2012 22:27:08 -0600 Subject: [TR] triumph logo In-Reply-To: <1330644578.36556.YahooMailNeo@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1492e.2fa89ed7.3c80cb73@cs.com> <29CC727B728348F3B43B424E08D394F0@ranteer.local> <1330644578.36556.YahooMailNeo@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <55018CB682F2458389A2E93045BE437D@ranteer.local> does anyone have a digital triumph logo they can send me? probably the earlier one, before the merger with BL I need it to photoshop it onto the triumph church building. and then I'll make it available to anyone who wants it From aljlthomson at charter.net Fri Mar 2 06:16:32 2012 From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson) Date: Fri, 2 Mar 2012 08:16:32 -0500 Subject: [TR] triumph logo In-Reply-To: <55018CB682F2458389A2E93045BE437D@ranteer.local> References: <1492e.2fa89ed7.3c80cb73@cs.com> <29CC727B728348F3B43B424E08D394F0@ranteer.local> <1330644578.36556.YahooMailNeo@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <55018CB682F2458389A2E93045BE437D@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <000b01ccf876$afbc62d0$0f352870$@charter.net> Several months ago, someone on the list provided the website of such a service. There were logos of all sorts of British cars and good explanations about the technicalities of images and how they are saved digitally. I thought I saved that e-mail but I think it evaporated. Hopefully that person will pick up on this. Alex Thomson -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of dave n Sent: Thursday, March 01, 2012 11:27 PM To: triumph list Subject: [TR] triumph logo does anyone have a digital triumph logo they can send me? probably the earlier one, before the merger with BL I need it to photoshop it onto the triumph church building. and then I'll make it available to anyone who wants it ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net From aljlthomson at charter.net Fri Mar 2 08:45:21 2012 From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson) Date: Fri, 2 Mar 2012 10:45:21 -0500 Subject: [TR] triumph logo In-Reply-To: <55018CB682F2458389A2E93045BE437D@ranteer.local> References: <1492e.2fa89ed7.3c80cb73@cs.com> <29CC727B728348F3B43B424E08D394F0@ranteer.local> <1330644578.36556.YahooMailNeo@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <55018CB682F2458389A2E93045BE437D@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <001c01ccf88b$7a19de40$6e4d9ac0$@charter.net> Dave and the list - I found the source. http://www.burnistonbooks.com/logos/ Alex Thomson -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of dave n Sent: Thursday, March 01, 2012 11:27 PM To: triumph list Subject: [TR] triumph logo does anyone have a digital triumph logo they can send me? probably the earlier one, before the merger with BL I need it to photoshop it onto the triumph church building. and then I'll make it available to anyone who wants it ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Fri Mar 2 15:06:20 2012 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Fri, 2 Mar 2012 15:06:20 -0700 Subject: [TR] Headlight replacement In-Reply-To: <011a01ccf7e5$a586ad20$f0940760$@rr.com> References: <276af.65561603.3c812388@cs.com> <011a01ccf7e5$a586ad20$f0940760$@rr.com> Message-ID: On Thu, Mar 1, 2012 at 12:58 PM, Randall wrote: > > Here in the states we can buy what is called "Sealed Beam Halogen" > > bulbs > > And, at least in my experience, don't work as well (or last as long) as > good > H4 lamps. The light pattern they put out is the same as the old tungsten > sealed beams. > I have the Bosch H4s in a couple of vehicles (including the TR4) and agree they are superior, but... I still have the sealed beam halogens in the TR3A because I like the way they look and do not do much night driving in that car. The Bosch's have a very flat lense whereas the old style sealed beams have more of a bulge to the lens and (to my eye) look better on the TR3A. BTW -- the Bosch's in the link cited (Bus Depot) actually say 'motorcycle' on the lens -- no that I can see where that matters. Geo From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk Fri Mar 2 15:30:42 2012 From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Fri, 2 Mar 2012 22:30:42 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] Headlight replacement In-Reply-To: <4F4F9D80.6090606@execulink.com> References: <4F4F9D80.6090606@execulink.com> Message-ID: <1330727442.38475.YahooMailNeo@web29403.mail.ird.yahoo.com> On both my old Triumphs with a four headlamp system, I used Lucas bulbed headlamp units instead of the normal production fitted sealed beams. The two outers had 60/45 watt halogens and the two inners had single filament 60w halogens. For safety's sake and to protect the headlamp dipswitch (now unobtanium) I had a relay for each set. Fantastic light output and light pattern was just the same as a tungsten or sealed beam. Several friends in the UK have Magneti Marelli headlamps in their TR's that were a straight swap from Alfas and Fiats of the same era and they claim excellent light properties. Worth trying if you don't want Bosch, Cibie or Lucas smellalikes? Jonmac http://standard-triumph-books.co.uk From don.hiscock at gmail.com Fri Mar 2 17:39:52 2012 From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Fri, 2 Mar 2012 18:39:52 -0600 Subject: [TR] What do you think is painted on the side of TSF52E block? Message-ID: Like most all sidescreen TRs, my TR3B TSF202L had hand-painted orange letterng on the starter side of the block reminding everyone the engine was built for a TR3. The car was built on April 12, 1962, some months after TR4 production had begun. It has a perfectly standard TR3 engine, TSF52E, but with the full-synchro gearbox common to the TSF series. Did TR4s also have orange paint on the block? Does anyone else think that the painting on my block looks almost like it had something else beneath the "TR", alongside the "3"? http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-xqwkjzw/0/XL/i-xqwkjzw-XL.jpg Don Hiscock Saint Louis From tr6driver at yahoo.com Fri Mar 2 17:57:11 2012 From: tr6driver at yahoo.com (Jamie Palmer) Date: Fri, 2 Mar 2012 16:57:11 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Help needed for early Spitfire front crank seal Message-ID: <1330736231.92507.YahooMailNeo@web114711.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Ok, so I was absolutely sure I had one on the shelf...to replace the one that was leaking on my daily driver '67 Mk. II (1147 cc). Unfortunately, I was wrong. I need to get this car back on the road by Monday if possible. I understand all the 1147's and 1296's through 1970 have the same seal. Anyone got one on the shelf they can look for a manufacturer's part number? Please email me directly as I'm on the digests and won't get the info right away. tr6driver at yahoo.com Thanks! Jamie Palmer From wbeech at flash.net Fri Mar 2 18:06:22 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Fri, 2 Mar 2012 19:06:22 -0600 Subject: [TR] What do you think is painted on the side of TSF52E block? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Looks like a "4" Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Don Hiscock Sent: Friday, March 02, 2012 6:40 PM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] What do you think is painted on the side of TSF52E block? Like most all sidescreen TRs, my TR3B TSF202L had hand-painted orange letterng on the starter side of the block reminding everyone the engine was built for a TR3. The car was built on April 12, 1962, some months after TR4 production had begun. It has a perfectly standard TR3 engine, TSF52E, but with the full-synchro gearbox common to the TSF series. Did TR4s also have orange paint on the block? Does anyone else think that the painting on my block looks almost like it had something else beneath the "TR", alongside the "3"? http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-xqwkjzw/0/XL/i-xqwkjzw-XL.jpg Don Hiscock Saint Louis ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From zoboherald at aol.com Fri Mar 2 18:33:26 2012 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace) Date: Fri, 2 Mar 2012 20:33:26 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Help needed for early Spitfire front crank seal In-Reply-To: <1330736231.92507.YahooMailNeo@web114711.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <1330736231.92507.YahooMailNeo@web114711.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8CEC6F4C3AF7774-157C-1C6E9@webmail-d058.sysops.aol.com> Maybe this will help: an old Beck-Arnley catalog gives me Weston WRG-43. I couldn't find anything like that on the current Pioneer-Weston web site, but.... --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us -----Original Message----- From: Jamie Palmer To: Triumph Club of the Carolinas ; Triumph List ; spitfires Sent: Fri, Mar 2, 2012 7:57 pm Subject: [TR] Help needed for early Spitfire front crank seal Ok, so I was absolutely sure I had one on the shelf...to replace the one that was leaking on my daily driver '67 Mk. II (1147 cc). Unfortunately, I was wrong. I need to get this car back on the road by Monday if possible. I understand all the 1147's and 1296's through 1970 have the same seal. Anyone got one on the shelf they can look for a manufacturer's part number? Please email me directly as I'm on the digests and won't get the info right away. tr6driver at yahoo.com From deruiterville at hotmail.com Fri Mar 2 18:42:53 2012 From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter) Date: Fri, 2 Mar 2012 19:42:53 -0600 Subject: [TR] What do you think is painted on the side of TSF52E block? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I'd say 4 as well, and it matches reasonably with an early TR4 block of similar vintage that I have. Makes me wonder when they painted them, pre- or post- adding the internals as well as the front engine plates? Randy DeRuiter 59 TR3A. 64 TR4 > Date: Fri, 2 Mar 2012 18:39:52 -0600 > From: don.hiscock at gmail.com > To: Triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] What do you think is painted on the side of TSF52E block? > > Like most all sidescreen TRs, my TR3B TSF202L had hand-painted orange > letterng on the starter side of the block reminding everyone the > engine was built for a TR3. The car was built on April 12, 1962, some > months after TR4 production had begun. It has a perfectly standard > TR3 engine, TSF52E, but with the full-synchro gearbox common to the > TSF series. > > Did TR4s also have orange paint on the block? Does anyone else think > that the painting on my block looks almost like it had something else > beneath the "TR", alongside the "3"? > > http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-xqwkjzw/0/XL/i-xqwkjzw-XL.jpg > > Don Hiscock > Saint Louis > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/deruiterville at hotmail.com From keithstewart at execulink.com Fri Mar 2 19:18:43 2012 From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart) Date: Fri, 2 Mar 2012 21:18:43 -0500 Subject: [TR] What do you think is painted on the side of TSF52E block? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On Fri, 2 Mar 2012, at 18:39:5, Don Hiscock wrote: > > Did TR4s also have orange paint on the block? Does anyone else think > that the painting on my block looks almost like it had something else > beneath the "TR", alongside the "3"? > My 1962 TR4 that I bought in 1966 with 17 000 miles did not have any such markings. Keith R. Stewart 75 Camden Road London, Ontario N5X 2K2 Home: (519) 660-1916 E-Mail: keithstewart at execulink.com From sumton at sbcglobal.net Fri Mar 2 19:55:26 2012 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (dave n) Date: Fri, 2 Mar 2012 20:55:26 -0600 Subject: [TR] Triumph Church In-Reply-To: <001c01ccf88b$7a19de40$6e4d9ac0$@charter.net> References: <1492e.2fa89ed7.3c80cb73@cs.com> <29CC727B728348F3B43B424E08D394F0@ranteer.local> <1330644578.36556.YahooMailNeo@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <55018CB682F2458389A2E93045BE437D@ranteer.local> <001c01ccf88b$7a19de40$6e4d9ac0$@charter.net> Message-ID: <021456F7F16045A7AD5071245D5DF4A8@ranteer.local> now it also has the proper logo. don't you love photoshop! www.ranteer.com/misc if you want the photo let me know. I reduced it for the web From carlsereda at aol.com Fri Mar 2 23:18:39 2012 From: carlsereda at aol.com (Carl Sereda) Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2012 01:18:39 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Block writings Message-ID: <8CEC71C9BC5706D-A60-48B1@webmail-d166.sysops.aol.com> Hi Don, If you covered the '3' on your engine block the writing looks almost identical to my TR4 configuration regarding where the TR is, and where your faint 4 is. And your 3, if you look closely, is slightly redder (less orange) in color than the TR-faint-4 part.. like it was painted on a different day.. with a different bucket of paint.. Carl '63 TR4 since '74 Did TR4s also have orange paint on the block? Does anyone else think that the painting on my block looks almost like it had something else beneath the "TR", alongside the "3"? From 61TR4ever at comcast.net Sat Mar 3 01:41:23 2012 From: 61TR4ever at comcast.net (Gary Grant) Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2012 03:41:23 -0500 Subject: [TR] Block writings Message-ID: >>>Like most all sidescreen TRs,...>>> This is not meant to criticize you, but contrary to common belief, most TRs did not have these markings. In actual fact very few sidescreens, or TR4s for that matter, had the markings. But it appears your TR3B has the correct markings for your car. The TR4 2138cc engine was not standard until May 62 with the start of the TCF series for the TR3B. There was a survey done on another forum several years ago that indicated the engine markings were common on the TR3B. Unfortunately, the link to that site went dead within the last few months (rucompatible.com). BTW - For reference, of my 6 TR4 engines and 2 TR3 engines, none have the markings that I know of. One of the TR4 engines has likely been repainted, but the others look to be original paint and I need to degrease the engine in CT1547L to get a closer look. The remaining 6 engines have been carefully checked for the markings. Gary TR4 CT1547L From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk Sat Mar 3 04:39:55 2012 From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2012 11:39:55 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] What do you think is painted on the side of TSF52E block? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1330774795.52538.YahooMailNeo@web29406.mail.ird.yahoo.com> The issue of mysterious ad-hoc codes painted on cylinder blocks has arisen on many occasions over the years since I've been on this list. Usually, they were of very short run duration - sometimes just days or a week or two and were mainly marshalling marks to ensure each assembly line got the right block in times of shortages when the unit came out of machining and after being painted. In this instance, I'd suggest that painting TR3 on this unbuilt block was to differentiate it from other wet liner four cylinders being built at the time. Standard had two engine assembly lines for the Big 4 Pot. One was used for TR, the other assembled power units for the Vanguard in 2088cc, the later Ensign in 2138cc, the Leyland 15 and Leyland 20 light trucks and vans. All of them had variations configurations of camshaft, compression ratio and carburation. In this instance, identifying it as a TR3 may have been nothing more than ensuring engine assembly had sufficient blocks available per model. To add to this general scenario, it's important not to forget the company also sold a large number of these base engine units with even further technical variations as static power units in industrial applications. You'll also find similar ad-hoc codes on the small block engines for Standard Ten vans and pick ups with the 1147cc engine for Spitfire and earlier versions of the SC engine in 948cc guise for Standard Ten, Herald single carb and Herald twin carb. Jonmac ________________________________ From: Keith Stewart To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Saturday, 3 March 2012, 2:18 Subject: [TR] What do you think is painted on the side of TSF52E block? >On Fri, 2 Mar 2012, at 18:39:5, Don Hiscock wrote: >> >> Did TR4s also have orange paint on the block? Does anyone else think >> that the painting on my block looks almost like it had something else >> beneath the "TR", alongside the "3"? >> >My 1962 TR4 that I bought in 1966 with 17 000 miles did not have any such >markings. > >Keith R. Stewart >75 Camden Road >London, Ontario >N5X 2K2 >Home: (519) 660-1916 >E-Mail: keithstewart at execulink.com > >** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk From Dave1massey at cs.com Sat Mar 3 07:10:41 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2012 09:10:41 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Headlight replacement Message-ID: <4576.5ba76636.3c838061@cs.com> In a message dated 3/2/2012 4:31:01 PM Central Standard Time, flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk writes: > UK have Magneti Marelli headlamps in their TR's that were a straight swap > from > Alfas and Fiats of the same era and they claim excellent light properties. > Worth trying if you don't want Bosch, Cibie or Lucas smellalikes? > When I fitted my ' 79 Mustang with just such a system I, too was quite impressed in the improvement in illumination. So much so I fitted bulbed headlights to the TR6. Unfortunately the units I fitted on the TR6 were cheap pacific rim units from JC Whitless. After a period of disappointment I changed them out for sealed beam halogens from my local hardware store. $10 a piece. Much better even though they were half the wattage. That's when it occurred to me that a headlamp is more than just a source of light. It is a light projection system with a critically dimensioned reflector. The cheap units I bought were not well designed or not manufactured accurately and even with 100 W bulbs they didn't illuminate the road very well. My advice is to stick to known brands be it Cibie, Marchal,Bosch, Lucas, Marelli. There is junk out there, beware. Dave From guy at genfiniti.com Sat Mar 3 08:02:27 2012 From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins) Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2012 09:02:27 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR4A - Breakdown Update - Dizzy Replaced Message-ID: <67FB7506-CB72-4371-A029-B9F39062815C@genfiniti.com> All, OK... after the roadside breakdown caused by the rotor breaking, and the insane amount of rattling the dizzy makes when the advance kicks-in, I decided to remove it (Pertronix) and replace with the original Lucas 25D. One of the immediate things I noticed after doing so is that startup performance was immediate, instead of sluggish, and it idles very strongly, almost too strongly (1000 rpm). So, I think I need to adjust the carbs to accommodate the dizzy change, which makes sense since ignition is ahead of carbs in the tune-up critical path. A couple of inquiries: 1. I set the four degree advance by using the thumb wheel. According to the manual, that is the starting point advance. I've heard rumor of advancing the wheel until the engine begins to "ping" (premature detonation?), then retarding until it stops. Does this really give you the best advance? 2. When the mechanical advance kicks in, it does rattle a bit, but nothing like the Pertronix. What can I do to cure this, if anything? 3. Finally, the vacuum unit on the dizzy is shot, so I am looking to replace with one of those new units Moss is offering. Any experience with those? Pertronix has offered to look at, and repair/replace their product. I am hoping I just got a defective unit. Cheers, Guy D. Huggins 1965 Triumph TR4A CTC 63569LO Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph From wbeech at flash.net Sat Mar 3 08:41:09 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2012 09:41:09 -0600 Subject: [TR] Block writings In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <82D5E0D9-95A4-440E-9334-0CCB5B3A3F51@flash.net> ISTR that a friends TR engined 1962 Morgan was marked with an "M" in the same color paint. Sent from mobile Bill On Mar 3, 2012, at 2:41 AM, "Gary Grant" <61TR4ever at comcast.net> wrote: >>>> Like most all sidescreen TRs,...>>> > > This is not meant to criticize you, but contrary to common belief, most TRs > did not have these markings. In actual fact very few sidescreens, or TR4s > for that matter, had the markings. But it appears your TR3B has the correct > markings for your car. The TR4 2138cc engine was not standard until May 62 > with the start of the TCF series for the TR3B. > > There was a survey done on another forum several years ago that indicated > the engine markings were common on the TR3B. Unfortunately, the link to that > site went dead within the last few months (rucompatible.com). > > BTW - For reference, of my 6 TR4 engines and 2 TR3 engines, none have the > markings that I know of. One of the TR4 engines has likely been repainted, > but the others look to be original paint and I need to degrease the engine > in CT1547L to get a closer look. The remaining 6 engines have been carefully > checked for the markings. > > > Gary > TR4 CT1547L > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sat Mar 3 08:40:40 2012 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Sat, 03 Mar 2012 10:40:40 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4A - Breakdown Update - Dizzy Replaced In-Reply-To: <67FB7506-CB72-4371-A029-B9F39062815C@genfiniti.com> References: <67FB7506-CB72-4371-A029-B9F39062815C@genfiniti.com> Message-ID: <4F523B78.7000508@adelphia.net> Guy, Sounds like to me that you need the unit rebuilt with new bushings, springs etc. I had my 72 6 distributor rebuilt by Jeff at Advanced and he does a very good job. Not to pricey, I think around 120$ or so. He will also make sure the curve is what you specify. His website is: http://advanceddistributors.com/ As far as setting the timing. That is what I do on the 3 and 4. Set it to 4 degrees and then advance until I get optimum performance and no pinging or after running. Then just back it off a degree or so. Been doing it for years. I have been told that the best way to set the timing is to use a vacuum gauge but I dont have the instructions for a 3 or 4 or anywhere to hook the gauge. On the 6 owners use the port that operates the power brakes. Bob On 03/03/2012 10:02 AM, G.D. Huggins wrote: > All, > > OK... after the roadside breakdown caused by the rotor breaking, and the > insane amount of rattling the dizzy makes when the advance kicks-in, I decided > to remove it (Pertronix) and replace with the original Lucas 25D. > > One of the immediate things I noticed after doing so is that startup > performance was immediate, instead of sluggish, and it idles very strongly, > almost too strongly (1000 rpm). So, I think I need to adjust the carbs to > accommodate the dizzy change, which makes sense since ignition is ahead of > carbs in the tune-up critical path. > > A couple of inquiries: > > 1. I set the four degree advance by using the thumb wheel. According to the > manual, that is the starting point advance. I've heard rumor of advancing the > wheel until the engine begins to "ping" (premature detonation?), then > retarding until it stops. Does this really give you the best advance? > > 2. When the mechanical advance kicks in, it does rattle a bit, but nothing > like the Pertronix. What can I do to cure this, if anything? > > 3. Finally, the vacuum unit on the dizzy is shot, so I am looking to replace > with one of those new units Moss is offering. Any experience with those? > > Pertronix has offered to look at, and repair/replace their product. I am > hoping I just got a defective unit. > > > > Cheers, > > Guy D. Huggins > 1965 Triumph TR4A > CTC 63569LO From spook01 at comcast.net Sat Mar 3 08:59:22 2012 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Sat, 03 Mar 2012 09:59:22 -0600 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Block_writings?= Message-ID: My tr4, ct320L, had "built by bubba" under the starter. I'm pretty sure it's original... Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Wbeech" To: "Gary Grant" <61TR4ever at comcast.net> Cc: "list Triumph" Subject: [TR] Block writings Date: Sat, Mar 3, 2012 09:41 ISTR that a friends TR engined 1962 Morgan was marked with an "M" in the same color paint. Sent from mobile Bill On Mar 3, 2012, at 2:41 AM, "Gary Grant" <61TR4ever at comcast.net> wrote: >>>> Like most all sidescreen TRs,...>>> > > This is not meant to criticize you, but contrary to common belief, most TRs > did not have these markings. In actual fact very few sidescreens, or TR4s > for that matter, had the markings. But it appears your TR3B has the correct > markings for your car. The TR4 2138cc engine was not standard until May 62 > with the start of the TCF series for the TR3B. > > There was a survey done on another forum several years ago that indicated > the engine markings were common on the TR3B. Unfortunately, the link to that > site went dead within the last few months (rucompatible.com). > > BTW - For reference, of my 6 TR4 engines and 2 TR3 engines, none have the > markings that I know of. One of the TR4 engines has likely been repainted, > but the others look to be original paint and I need to degrease the engine > in CT1547L to get a closer look. The remaining 6 engines have been carefully > checked for the markings. > > > Gary > TR4 CT1547L > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From L1J1S at aol.com Sat Mar 3 09:10:35 2012 From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com) Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2012 11:10:35 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Tr- wire wheels Message-ID: List, i want to repaint my wire wheels to freshen them up. what is the best way to go about this to prepare them for painting? larry schwartz From mbarre at juno.com Sat Mar 3 09:11:30 2012 From: mbarre at juno.com (Matt) Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2012 16:11:30 GMT Subject: [TR] Block writings Message-ID: <20120303.111130.14982.2@webmail05.vgs.untd.com> Probably came from the southern factory... Or a worker born in Georgia! ---------- Original Message ---------- From: "spook01 at comcast.net" To: "Wbeech" ,"Gary Grant" <61TR4ever at comcast.net> Cc: list Triumph Subject: Re: [TR] Block writings Date: Sat, 03 Mar 2012 09:59:22 -0600 My tr4, ct320L, had "built by bubba" under the starter. I'm pretty sure it's original... Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Wbeech" To: "Gary Grant" <61TR4ever at comcast.net> Cc: "list Triumph" Subject: [TR] Block writings Date: Sat, Mar 3, 2012 09:41 ISTR that a friends TR engined 1962 Morgan was marked with an "M" in the same color paint. Sent from mobile Bill On Mar 3, 2012, at 2:41 AM, "Gary Grant" <61TR4ever at comcast.net> wrote: >>>> Like most all sidescreen TRs,...>>> > > This is not meant to criticize you, but contrary to common belief, most TRs > did not have these markings. In actual fact very few sidescreens, or TR4s > for that matter, had the markings. But it appears your TR3B has the correct > markings for your car. The TR4 2138cc engine was not standard until May 62 > with the start of the TCF series for the TR3B. > > There was a survey done on another forum several years ago that indicated > the engine markings were common on the TR3B. Unfortunately, the link to that > site went dead within the last few months (rucompatible.com). > > BTW - For reference, of my 6 TR4 engines and 2 TR3 engines, none have the > markings that I know of. One of the TR4 engines has likely been repainted, > but the others look to be original paint and I need to degrease the engine > in CT1547L to get a closer look. The remaining 6 engines have been carefully > checked for the markings. > > > Gary > TR4 CT1547L > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mbarre at juno.com From wbeech at flash.net Sat Mar 3 09:19:51 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2012 10:19:51 -0600 Subject: [TR] Tr- wire wheels In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <47CF578368F74A46BB5849110E3747A2@bboffice> I did this twice. First time I just took them to be powder coated, they did the sandblasting and finishing, they look great but are no longer able to be trued, about $65ea. Second, I had Hendrix Wire Wheel repaint a new set of gray Dunlop wires before mounting the tires. Look great and they included extra paint to touch-up after any truing/balancing that may be required in the future, $80ea. My advice if you are going to do this yourself would be to give Allen Hendrix a call. He is a great guy and I now it would not bother him at all to share a few pointers. NFI, Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of L1J1S at aol.com Sent: Saturday, March 03, 2012 10:11 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Tr- wire wheels List, i want to repaint my wire wheels to freshen them up. what is the best way to go about this to prepare them for painting? larry schwartz ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From tjwakeman at gmail.com Sat Mar 3 09:25:02 2012 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Sat, 03 Mar 2012 09:25:02 -0700 Subject: [TR] Headlight replacement In-Reply-To: <4576.5ba76636.3c838061@cs.com> References: <4576.5ba76636.3c838061@cs.com> Message-ID: <4F5245DE.4060508@gmail.com> > My advice is to stick to known brands be it Cibie, Marchal,Bosch, Lucas, Marelli. There is junk out there, beware. > > Dave On top of that recommendation I would also recommend Hella and IPF conversions as well. I have IPF lamps on my 1960 Land Rover and am very happy with them. The cut off line for these lamps are very sharp and they have a diagonal cutoff at the right side of the lamp that illuminates street signs as well as pedestrians/animals alongside the road. The TR3 has genuine Lucas PL-700 lamps that work well as well. But not quite as well as the IPF lights. I once had the Moss fake PL-700 lamps which were the poorest functioning lamps I've ever had. Get real and get quality. One of these days you might get caught out after dark. Teriann From thenicholls at verizon.net Sat Mar 3 09:40:23 2012 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Sat, 03 Mar 2012 10:40:23 -0600 (CST) Subject: [TR] TR6 tail light bulb holders Message-ID: <7884701.2304986.1330792823402.JavaMail.root@vms170035> On my 1972 Triumph TR6, I was planning to work on all six bulb holders in the tail lights using the soldering method on the Buckeye web site. I then realized that I did not have a soldering gun with enough power to do the job. I would like to purchase a new set of the six where they have the extra prong on them so they each can be grounded like on Bob Danielson's website. The guy on Ebay (BlueChips2001) no longer lists them, does anyone on the list have a source for these? Thanks, Craig From rjones at wfeca.net Sat Mar 3 09:45:20 2012 From: rjones at wfeca.net (Robert Jones) Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2012 10:45:20 -0600 Subject: [TR] What do you think is painted on the side of TSF52E block? In-Reply-To: <1330774795.52538.YahooMailNeo@web29406.mail.ird.yahoo.com> References: <1330774795.52538.YahooMailNeo@web29406.mail.ird.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <635C51BB-A698-464B-8A5B-0A86F1C65295@wfeca.net> More about paint and colour. My Morgan 61 Plus 4 has a TR3 engine (number TS81957E) and was originally painted a orangish red. Did any TR3's have other than a black block? Bob On Mar 3, 2012, at 5:39 AM, John Macartney wrote: > The issue of mysterious ad-hoc codes painted on cylinder blocks has arisen on > many occasions over the years since I've been on this list. Usually, they were > of very short run duration - sometimes just days or a week or two and were > mainly marshalling marks to ensure each assembly line got the right block in > times of shortages when the unit came out of machining and after being > painted. In this instance, I'd suggest that painting TR3 on this unbuilt block > was to differentiate it from other wet liner four cylinders being built at the > time. Standard had two engine assembly lines for the Big 4 Pot. One was used > for TR, the other assembled power units for the Vanguard in 2088cc, the later > Ensign in 2138cc, the Leyland 15 and Leyland 20 light trucks and vans. All of > them had variations configurations of camshaft, compression ratio and > carburation. In this instance, identifying it as a TR3 may have been nothing > more than ensuring engine assembly had > sufficient blocks available per model. To add to this general scenario, it's > important not to forget the company also sold a large number of these base > engine units with even further technical variations as static power units in > industrial applications. > You'll also find similar ad-hoc codes on the small > block engines for Standard Ten vans and pick ups with the 1147cc engine for > Spitfire and earlier versions of the SC engine in 948cc guise for Standard > Ten, Herald single carb and Herald twin carb. > > Jonmac > > ________________________________ > From: Keith Stewart > > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Saturday, 3 > March 2012, 2:18 > Subject: [TR] What do you think is painted on the side of > TSF52E block? > > >> On Fri, 2 Mar 2012, at 18:39:5, Don Hiscock wrote: >>> >>> Did > TR4s also have orange paint on the block? Does anyone else think >>> that the > painting on my block looks almost like it had something else >>> beneath the > "TR", alongside the "3"? >>> >> My 1962 TR4 that I bought in 1966 with 17 000 > miles did not have any such >> markings. >> >> Keith R. Stewart >> 75 Camden Road >> London, Ontario >> N5X 2K2 >> Home: (519) 660-1916 >> E-Mail: > keithstewart at execulink.com >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: > http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: > http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rjones at wfeca.net From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Mar 3 09:55:01 2012 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2012 11:55:01 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 tail light bulb holders In-Reply-To: <7884701.2304986.1330792823402.JavaMail.root@vms170035> References: <7884701.2304986.1330792823402.JavaMail.root@vms170035> Message-ID: Craig, Drop BlueChips an email........... you might have to go in to one of his other eBay listing to contact him. He seems to offer them in batches so I'm guessing he's waiting on another batch right now. Bob Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 1975 TR6 with: Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff & CVJs -----Original Message----- From: thenicholls at verizon.net Sent: Saturday, March 03, 2012 11:40 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR6 tail light bulb holders On my 1972 Triumph TR6, I was planning to work on all six bulb holders in the tail lights using the soldering method on the Buckeye web site. I then realized that I did not have a soldering gun with enough power to do the job. I would like to purchase a new set of the six where they have the extra prong on them so they each can be grounded like on Bob Danielson's website. The guy on Ebay (BlueChips2001) no longer lists them, does anyone on the list have a source for these? Thanks, Craig ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Mar 3 10:02:39 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2012 09:02:39 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR6 tail light bulb holders In-Reply-To: <7884701.2304986.1330792823402.JavaMail.root@vms170035> References: <7884701.2304986.1330792823402.JavaMail.root@vms170035> Message-ID: <056a01ccf95f$715b7410$0301a8c0@randall> > The guy on Ebay (BlueChips2001) no longer lists them, does > anyone on the list have a source for these? The ones I got from both TRF and Rimmers (under the original part numbers) had the extra tab for the ground. -- Randall From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sat Mar 3 10:30:04 2012 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Sat, 03 Mar 2012 12:30:04 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 tail light bulb holders In-Reply-To: <7884701.2304986.1330792823402.JavaMail.root@vms170035> References: <7884701.2304986.1330792823402.JavaMail.root@vms170035> Message-ID: <4F52551C.5000304@adelphia.net> Craig, I also wanted a set for my 72 so I emailed BlueChips but he said that his British supplier did not stock them anymore. Bob On 03/03/2012 11:40 AM, thenicholls at verizon.net wrote: > On my 1972 Triumph TR6, I was planning to work on all six bulb holders in the tail lights using the soldering method on the Buckeye web site. > > I then realized that I did not have a soldering gun with enough power to do the job. > > I would like to purchase a new set of the six where they have the extra prong on them so they each can be grounded like on Bob Danielson's website. > > The guy on Ebay (BlueChips2001) no longer lists them, does anyone on the list have a source for these? > > Thanks, > > Craig From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Mar 3 10:32:22 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2012 09:32:22 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR4A - Breakdown Update - Dizzy Replaced In-Reply-To: <67FB7506-CB72-4371-A029-B9F39062815C@genfiniti.com> References: <67FB7506-CB72-4371-A029-B9F39062815C@genfiniti.com> Message-ID: <057101ccf963$979fc2d0$0301a8c0@randall> > I've heard rumor > of advancing the > wheel until the engine begins to "ping" (premature detonation?), then > retarding until it stops. Does this really give you the best advance? Best achievable by ordinary mortals, yes. You could probably do better with a dyno, though. > 2. When the mechanical advance kicks in, it does rattle a > bit, but nothing > like the Pertronix. What can I do to cure this, if anything? I'm not sure I understand this statement; but it seems like you are describing pinging (aka ignition knock, aka detonation, aka premature ignition) from too much advance. The advance itself should be totally silent, all you should really hear is the exhaust note rising in pitch. Anything that "rattles" is a Bad Thing. Since you've had this problem with two distributors now, I'm wondering if perhaps your compression ratio has been increased (perhaps by oversize liners or by modifying the head); or you are running really low grade fuel. While it would be best to isolate the cause, you should retard the spark now to stop the detonation. If not, there will likely be one of these in your future http://goo.gl/54z9U -- Randall From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sat Mar 3 10:34:00 2012 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (dave n) Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2012 11:34:00 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR4A - Breakdown Update - Dizzy Replaced In-Reply-To: <4F523B78.7000508@adelphia.net> References: <67FB7506-CB72-4371-A029-B9F39062815C@genfiniti.com> <4F523B78.7000508@adelphia.net> Message-ID: I highly recommend advanced distributors!!! -------------------------------------------------- From: "Bob Labuz" Sent: Saturday, March 03, 2012 9:40 AM To: "G.D. Huggins" Cc: Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A - Breakdown Update - Dizzy Replaced > Guy, > > Sounds like to me that you need the unit rebuilt with new bushings, > springs etc. I had my 72 6 distributor rebuilt by Jeff at Advanced and > he does a very good job. Not to pricey, I think around 120$ or so. He > will also make sure the curve is what you specify. > His website is: http://advanceddistributors.com/ From JGILLIS at tcd.ie Sat Mar 3 11:02:31 2012 From: JGILLIS at tcd.ie (John Gillis) Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2012 18:02:31 +0000 Subject: [TR] Hood(Top)-Up Message-ID: Having fitted my new and very expensive double duck hood, can somebody walk me through the correct fitting procedure, i.e should the frame be erected first and then all the Tenax clipped in place, or do you spring the frame in position after fitting the hood (top) Thanks John 1954 TR2 John Gillis Senior Conservator From davewillner at pa.net Sat Mar 3 11:08:01 2012 From: davewillner at pa.net (davewillner) Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2012 13:08:01 -0500 Subject: [TR] brake/clutch bleeding kit recommendation Message-ID: Can anyone recommend an economical bleeding kit, maybe something using compressed air? I'm still having issues with my new clutch master/slave, determined again to resolve this asap...Thanks Dave Willner Stroudsburg PA 59 TR3A 70 MGB 70 BSA 441 VS From L1J1S at aol.com Sat Mar 3 11:13:46 2012 From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com) Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2012 13:13:46 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Tr -tr3 brooklands Message-ID: List, does anyone have brooklands on their tr3? if so , can you e-mail me a picture off list to _L1J1S at AOL.COM_ (mailto:L1J1S at AOL.COM) . thanks, larry schwartz From emanteno at comcast.net Sat Mar 3 11:18:01 2012 From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey) Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2012 12:18:01 -0600 Subject: [TR] brake/clutch bleeding kit recommendation In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On Sat, Mar 3, 2012 at 12:08 PM, davewillner wrote: > Can anyone recommend an economical bleeding kit, maybe something using > compressed air? I'm still having issues with my new clutch master/slave, > determined again to resolve this asap... > The most economical bleeding kit that I have used is to have my wife work the pedals, and when we're finished, I take her out to dinner. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sat Mar 3 12:02:11 2012 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (dave n) Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2012 13:02:11 -0600 Subject: [TR] brake/clutch bleeding kit recommendation In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: http://www.speedbleeder.com/ speedbleeders have a one way valve in them. wife is optional (I adore mine tho) -------------------------------------------------- From: "davewillner" Sent: Saturday, March 03, 2012 12:08 PM To: Subject: [TR] brake/clutch bleeding kit recommendation > Can anyone recommend an economical bleeding kit, maybe something using > compressed air? I'm still having issues with my new clutch master/slave, > determined again to resolve this asap...Thanks From mmarr at notwires.com Sat Mar 3 12:20:32 2012 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2012 13:20:32 -0600 Subject: [TR] brake/clutch bleeding kit recommendation In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Being the traditionalist that I am I have to agree with Irv. I tried all the gizmos and not only did they not work, they were very poor company at Portillo's. Mike -------------------------------------------------- From: "Irv Korey" Sent: Saturday, March 03, 2012 12:18 PM To: "davewillner" Cc: Subject: Re: [TR] brake/clutch bleeding kit recommendation > On Sat, Mar 3, 2012 at 12:08 PM, davewillner wrote: > >> Can anyone recommend an economical bleeding kit, maybe something using >> compressed air? I'm still having issues with my new clutch master/slave, >> determined again to resolve this asap... >> > > > The most economical bleeding kit that I have used is to have my wife work > the pedals, and when we're finished, I take her out to dinner. > > Irv Korey > 74 TR6 CF22767U > Highland Park, IL > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mmarr at notwires.com From jdemuth at ties2.net Sat Mar 3 13:49:10 2012 From: jdemuth at ties2.net (Joe DeMuth) Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2012 14:49:10 -0600 Subject: [TR] Trunk Prop Rod Message-ID: I am looking for a trunk prop rod for a TR3A. Any out there gathering dust? From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Sat Mar 3 13:56:07 2012 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2012 12:56:07 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Headlamps to chose Message-ID: <1330808167.55898.YahooMailNeo@web39403.mail.mud.yahoo.com> tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: Here in the states we can buy what is called "Sealed Beam Halogen" bulbs which externally look like the old style sealed beam headlights but contain a small quartz bulb inside (quartz-halogen). And, at least in my experience, don't work as well (or last as long) as good H4 lamps. The light pattern they put out is the same as the old tungsten sealed beams. Dave1massey at cs.com writes: No, of course they aren't as good as the H4's but they are cheap everywhere. I've had no issues about longevity, however. -------------------------------------------- Hi List! I agree with both of these people, but the reason I changed was because of: 1- Randall's points. 2- His place of suggested purchasing (lower price). 3- It's easier to store the replacement bulb for the H4 Headlamp in my TR4A than a seal beam style. 4- You can purchase a wider variety range of bulbs at most local stores (including Walmart types of stores- NFI at ALL), but ease of purchasing when on the road. I also purchased 'Stone Guards' at a flee market & made the headlamp to stone guard clips (which hold the Headlamp Rings on better). You do what you want, because it's YOUR car. -Cosmo Kramer From daveg at online.no Sat Mar 3 14:02:25 2012 From: daveg at online.no (David Griffiths) Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2012 22:02:25 +0100 Subject: [TR] brake/clutch bleeding kit recommendation In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: For the unmarried, divorced, friendless or folks that just like to work alone, I've had good experience with the Gunson Eezibleed: http://www.gunson.co.uk/item.aspx?item=1818. You just couple one end to the reservoir and the airhose to a tyrevalve. Then you just open the slave cylinders one by one and let it bleed away in a steady stream of fluid. One thing though, this pressurises the reservior, which normally isn't pressurised, so it's just possible that if you have a loose or cracked nut on the pipe to the master, it will force drops of fluid out onto your paintwork, so put the lid of an icecream container or similar under the reservoir and pipe while you do this. Have fun - Dave (tr3) On 03 Mar 2012, at 19:08, davewillner wrote: > Can anyone recommend an economical bleeding kit, maybe something using > compressed air? I'm still having issues with my new clutch master/slave, > determined again to resolve this asap...Thanks > > Dave Willner > Stroudsburg PA > 59 TR3A > 70 MGB > 70 BSA 441 VS > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/daveg at online.no > > David Griffiths Oslo Norway daveg at online.no From levilevi at comcast.net Sat Mar 3 14:39:00 2012 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2012 14:39:00 -0700 Subject: [TR] brake/clutch bleeding kit recommendation In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Used Irv's method for years. And then I discovered a 2x4 cut the right length and wedged between the seat and brake pedal would work too. I don't have to take it to dinner and I've never had one argument with that 2x4 about whether I said to push the pedal or not. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Mar 3, 2012, at 11:18 AM, Irv Korey wrote: > On Sat, Mar 3, 2012 at 12:08 PM, davewillner > wrote: > >> Can anyone recommend an economical bleeding kit, maybe something >> using >> compressed air? I'm still having issues with my new clutch master/ >> slave, >> determined again to resolve this asap... >> > > > The most economical bleeding kit that I have used is to have my wife > work > the pedals, and when we're finished, I take her out to dinner. > > Irv Korey > 74 TR6 CF22767U > Highland Park, IL > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Mar 3 16:48:48 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2012 15:48:48 -0800 Subject: [TR] brake/clutch bleeding kit recommendation In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <05c901ccf998$2e05a990$0301a8c0@randall> > And then I discovered a 2x4 cut the right length and wedged between > the seat and brake pedal would work too. I must be missing something. How do you get the 2x4 to press the pedal to the floor while you're under the car with a wrench on the bleed valve? -- Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Mar 3 16:52:17 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2012 15:52:17 -0800 Subject: [TR] Headlamps to chose In-Reply-To: <1330808167.55898.YahooMailNeo@web39403.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <1330808167.55898.YahooMailNeo@web39403.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <05ca01ccf998$aaae0be0$0301a8c0@randall> "Cosmo" Kramer wrote: > tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > Here in the states we can buy what is called > "Sealed Beam Halogen" bulbs which externally look like the > old style sealed > beam headlights but contain a small quartz bulb inside > (quartz-halogen). Er, just to be fair, that portion was actually written by Dave Massey. Credit where credit is due, or something like that. -- Randall From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Sat Mar 3 18:03:43 2012 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2012 18:03:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] What do you think is painted on the side of TSF52E block? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On Fri, Mar 2, 2012 at 5:39 PM, Don Hiscock wrote: > Did TR4s also have orange paint on the block? Yes. http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/engine%20markings.JPG > Does anyone else think that the painting on my block looks almost like it > had something else > beneath the "TR", alongside the "3"? > Something there for sure. Maybe a '4'. Geo From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Sat Mar 3 18:14:50 2012 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2012 18:14:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] brake/clutch bleeding kit recommendation In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On Sat, Mar 3, 2012 at 11:08 AM, davewillner wrote: > Can anyone recommend an economical bleeding kit, maybe something using > compressed air? I haven't used it so no recommendation, just noting... http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-fluid-bleeder-92924.html Geo From anabil007 at comcast.net Sat Mar 3 20:00:13 2012 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh) Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2012 19:00:13 -0800 Subject: [TR] brake/clutch bleeding kit recommendation In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I used one just like that, still takes two people, one to make sure the reservoir does not go dry, but it is great to suck out all the old gunky fluif ... On Mar 3, 2012, at 5:14 PM, Geo Hahn wrote: > On Sat, Mar 3, 2012 at 11:08 AM, davewillner wrote: > >> Can anyone recommend an economical bleeding kit, maybe something using >> compressed air? > > > > I haven't used it so no recommendation, just noting... From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Sat Mar 3 21:00:34 2012 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2012 20:00:34 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] soldering Message-ID: <1330833634.80552.YahooMailNeo@web65506.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> On one of the recent posts I read where someone mentioned not having good luck soldering electrical connections. I have been having an awful time soldering. My soldering iron is a Weller 140/100 watt and the solder I'm using is the same solder I used for soldering plumbing joints. It takes a long time to get the solder to melt even if i place the soldering gun directly on the solder itself. And its basically impossible to get the joint hot enough to melt the solder as the directions tell you to do. It's been the most frustrating thing I've had to try to learn. Do I need a larger soldering iron or do I need different solder? Is there a solder specifically for electrical connections in cars that has a lower melting point? thanks! gary n. From pethier at comcast.net Sat Mar 3 21:05:05 2012 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2012 04:05:05 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Trunk Prop Rod In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1558169645.26278.1330833905167.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Joe DeMuth" > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Saturday, March 3, 2012 2:49:10 PM > Subject: [TR] Trunk Prop Rod > I am looking for a trunk prop rod for a TR3A. Any out there gathering > dust? Would that be the the TR that was in my trailer today? :-) Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://www.mnautox.com From jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com Sat Mar 3 21:24:56 2012 From: jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com (John Young) Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2012 20:24:56 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] soldering In-Reply-To: <1330833634.80552.YahooMailNeo@web65506.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <1330833634.80552.YahooMailNeo@web65506.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1330835096.8232.YahooMailNeo@web181019.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> The solder for electrical joints is not like the solder for other things. It has a rosin core. Most others are either solid, to be used with an externally applied flux, or acid core You can buy rosin core most places that sell solder. I use a two speed Weller gun and rosin core solder from Radio Shack if I'm only doing a few joints, otherwise I use a very small iron that stays hot as long as its plugged in. You don't have to wait for it to heat each time. The solder I have is about 1/16 in. in diameter. I find that it takes the gun a few seconds to heat enough to melt the solder. When the solder melts against the gun tip, let it run onto the joint so that it will help conduct heat to the joint. To put a connector on the end of a no 22 wire only takes about 1 minute. Of course, if the piece is large, it will conduct the heat away from the joint and will take longer to get it up to temperature. I have had to use an Ox-Acetelene tourch to solder large copper pieces There are other, higher melting solders such as silver solder which melts almost at the melting point of brass. my solder is a 60/40 mix of lead and tin. Pure tin solder has a somewhat higher melting point so would be a little slower to melt, but not very much. John Young NASS# 528 Indiana '78 Spitfire '66 Spitfire '59 TR3A (being repaired after 37 yrs ownership) From: Gary Nafziger To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" Sent: Saturday, March 3, 2012 11:00 PM Subject: [TR] soldering On one of the recent posts I read where someone mentioned not having good luck soldering electrical connections. I have been having an awful time soldering. My soldering iron is a Weller 140/100 watt and the solder I'm using is the same solder I used for soldering plumbing joints. It takes a long time to get the solder to melt even if i place the soldering gun directly on the solder itself. And its basically impossible to get the joint hot enough to melt the solder as the directions tell you to do. It's been the most frustrating thing I've had to try to learn. Do I need a larger soldering iron or do I need different solder? Is there a solder specifically for electrical connections in cars that has a lower melting point? thanks! gary n. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com From levilevi at comcast.net Sat Mar 3 21:57:27 2012 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2012 21:57:27 -0700 Subject: [TR] brake/clutch bleeding kit recommendation In-Reply-To: <05c901ccf998$2e05a990$0301a8c0@randall> References: <05c901ccf998$2e05a990$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: The compression of the seat cushion pushes it. I bleed it a bit, set it up again, and repeat until no more bubbles. It's a highly calibrated 2x4 :) Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Mar 3, 2012, at 4:48 PM, Randall wrote: >> And then I discovered a 2x4 cut the right length and wedged between >> the seat and brake pedal would work too. > > I must be missing something. How do you get the 2x4 to press the > pedal to > the floor while you're under the car with a wrench on the bleed valve? > > -- Randall > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Mar 3 22:30:09 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2012 21:30:09 -0800 Subject: [TR] brake/clutch bleeding kit recommendation In-Reply-To: References: <05c901ccf998$2e05a990$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <060f01ccf9c7$ddaafb00$0301a8c0@randall> > The compression of the seat cushion pushes it. I bleed it a bit, set > it up again, and repeat until no more bubbles. It's a highly > calibrated 2x4 :) Seems like that would involve a lot of getting in and out from under the car. Thanks for the explanation, that would not have occurred to me. -- Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Mar 3 23:03:53 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2012 22:03:53 -0800 Subject: [TR] soldering In-Reply-To: <1330835096.8232.YahooMailNeo@web181019.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1330833634.80552.YahooMailNeo@web65506.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> <1330835096.8232.YahooMailNeo@web181019.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <061301ccf9cc$94135000$0301a8c0@randall> > The solder for electrical joints is not like the solder for > other things. It > has a rosin core. In addition, practically all plumbing solder these days is lead-free and is much harder to use (won't wet the surface) than the classic tin/lead solder, as well as having a higher melting point. It is also (at least mostly) non-eutectic, meaning it hardens over a wide temperature range instead of 'freezing' all at one temperature. This make it much more likely to produce a 'cold' solder joint. The plumbing stuff I found at Home Depot has a melting range of 420F to 460F (meaning it is kind of half-melted between those two temperatures); while proper eutectic solder melts/hardens at exactly 361.4F My antique Weller soldering gun is only rated at 120W, and I haven't found an electrical joint yet that it can't handle, including soldering wires to steel sheet metal chassis. A secret that my Dad taught me years ago : The output of those Weller guns will fall off over time. You can get it back by loosening and then firmly retightening the two nuts that hold the tip to the gun. The soldering gun tip also erodes with usage and occasionally needs to be dressed back to it's original chisel shape, and re-tinned. Using an eroded or poorly tinned tip will greatly reduce heat transfer to the joint. Once the chisel part is gone, you need a new tip. Could be my imagination, but I also feel that the classic Kester "44" solder works better than the no-name rosin core stuff they sell at Radio Shack. Looks like I'm not the only one: http://goo.gl/IU3I7 -- Randall From mark at bradakis.com Sun Mar 4 03:47:10 2012 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2012 03:47:10 -0700 (MST) Subject: [TR] Team.Net forums Message-ID: <20120304104710.B56592E0A1@bradakis.com> Okay, I think that the forums are back online. Check out http://www.team.net/forums and see if it behaves as you expect. Remember that the forum login/password is completely independent of your mailing list password. If you want to post you have to be a registered user. Anyone can look, no problem. Any problems, comments or whatever let me know. mjb. From triumphstag at gmail.com Sun Mar 4 02:33:22 2012 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2012 01:33:22 -0800 Subject: [TR] Poly bushes Message-ID: I'm exploring poly bushes for my Stag. From memory the Superflex brand need periodic re-greasing. Is this still the case? Are there other poly vendors worth recommending that are fit and forget. Some of the Stag's bushes are the same as on the TR6 and well as the Triumph 2000 2.5 -- Sujit Roy, Realtor (408) 839-8359 roysrealty.com From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Sun Mar 4 05:49:00 2012 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2012 04:49:00 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Headlamps to chose Message-ID: <1330865340.54672.YahooMailNeo@web39404.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2012 From: "Randall" Subject: Re: [TR] Headlamps to chose "Cosmo" Kramer wrote: > tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > Here in the states we can buy what is called > "Sealed Beam Halogen" bulbs which externally look like the > old style sealed > beam headlights but contain a small quartz bulb inside > (quartz-halogen). Er, just to be fair, that portion was actually written by Dave Massey. Credit where credit is due, or something like that. -- Randall ------------------------------------------- Hi Randall, Dave, & List! I'm sorry for the misquote, & wish to thank you all. For when this was done, It was a 'retype' from a bounce-back that had all that hieroglyphics inside that had to be deleted. So I'm sorry for the misquote & thank you Randall for the correction. -Cosmo Kramer From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Sun Mar 4 07:35:52 2012 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2012 06:35:52 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Broken Clutch Pedal Message-ID: <1330871752.49489.YahooMailRC@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> So I was letting my daughter drive my TR3A on an unseasonably warm day. When she came back she was complaining that the clutch pedal was weird. I checked it out and sure enough, the weld that holds the pedal to the tubular shaft had given way and the pedal was all wonky. Glad it wasn't the brake pedal. I haven't had a chance to get to it yet to fix it. I have a spare pedal assembly and can just get another brake pedal, but I am thinking about using the original pedal and strengthening it with a better weld and maybe a gusset. Anyone else had problems with pedals braking? Bill in Tehachapi From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Mar 4 07:46:16 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2012 09:46:16 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] brake/clutch bleeding kit recommendation Message-ID: <3c473.fbb0cd7.3c84da38@cs.com> In a message dated 3/3/2012 12:18:06 PM Central Standard Time, emanteno at comcast.net writes: > The most economical bleeding kit that I have used is to have my wife work > the pedals, and when we're finished, I take her out to dinner. > A man wise well beyond his years. Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Mar 4 08:06:18 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2012 10:06:18 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] brake/clutch bleeding kit recommendation Message-ID: <3caf4.79ec70f3.3c84deea@cs.com> In a message dated 3/3/2012 5:48:55 PM Central Standard Time, TR3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > I must be missing something. How do you get the 2x4 to press the pedal > to > the floor while you're under the car with a wrench on the bleed valve? > Telekinesis. Duh! Dave From darrellw360 at mac.com Sun Mar 4 08:26:04 2012 From: darrellw360 at mac.com (Darrell Walker) Date: Sun, 04 Mar 2012 07:26:04 -0800 Subject: [TR] Broken Clutch Pedal In-Reply-To: <1330871752.49489.YahooMailRC@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <1330871752.49489.YahooMailRC@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Hi Bill, I've not had a problem with them breaking, but do check the condition of the shaft that the break and clutch pedal ride on. At one point on my car, the two pedals would barely operate independently. I assume it was from fluif/moisture running down, and causing the shaft to corrode. That could certainly put extra stress on that joint. -Darrell -- Darrell Walker 66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L 81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206 Vancouver, WA, USA From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sun Mar 4 08:40:25 2012 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sun, 04 Mar 2012 10:40:25 -0500 Subject: [TR] soldering In-Reply-To: <061301ccf9cc$94135000$0301a8c0@randall> References: <1330833634.80552.YahooMailNeo@web65506.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> <1330835096.8232.YahooMailNeo@web181019.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <061301ccf9cc$94135000$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: That explains why I couldn't get an electrical connection soldered correctly (ended up buying a new base). I couldn't get it hot enough with my old s-gun. Thanks Randall - you definitely are a fountain of knowledge. Carl . 1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ Still being restored - but 2012 looks like the year.. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2012 1:04 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] soldering > The solder for electrical joints is not like the solder for other > things. It has a rosin core. In addition, practically all plumbing solder these days is lead-free and is much harder to use (won't wet the surface) than the classic tin/lead solder, as well as having a higher melting point. It is also (at least mostly) non-eutectic, meaning it hardens over a wide temperature range instead of 'freezing' all at one temperature. This make it much more likely to produce a 'cold' solder joint. The plumbing stuff I found at Home Depot has a melting range of 420F to 460F (meaning it is kind of half-melted between those two temperatures); while proper eutectic solder melts/hardens at exactly 361.4F My antique Weller soldering gun is only rated at 120W, and I haven't found an electrical joint yet that it can't handle, including soldering wires to steel sheet metal chassis. A secret that my Dad taught me years ago : The output of those Weller guns will fall off over time. You can get it back by loosening and then firmly retightening the two nuts that hold the tip to the gun. The soldering gun tip also erodes with usage and occasionally needs to be dressed back to it's original chisel shape, and re-tinned. Using an eroded or poorly tinned tip will greatly reduce heat transfer to the joint. Once the chisel part is gone, you need a new tip. Could be my imagination, but I also feel that the classic Kester "44" solder works better than the no-name rosin core stuff they sell at Radio Shack. Looks like I'm not the only one: http://goo.gl/IU3I7 -- Randall ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Mar 4 08:48:54 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2012 10:48:54 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] soldering Message-ID: <3d9c7.41ec44ee.3c84e8e6@cs.com> In a message dated 3/3/2012 10:00:42 PM Central Standard Time, nafzigerg at yahoo.com writes: > Do I need a larger soldering iron or do I need > different solder? Is there a solder specifically for electrical > connections > in cars that has a lower melting point? > You have received a couple of well informed replies already but let me add my technique to the list. The secret to soldering is to get the parts hot enough to melt the solder. I apply a small ammount of solder to the tip of the soldering gun/iron as this will greatly improve heat transfer. Then I heat the bullet since this is the largets mass. I then apply the solder to the bullet. When it gets hot enough the solder will begin to melt and I feed the solder in to make the joint. With that ammount of heat and the bullet hot enough the wire will quickly heat up enough to take up the solder and the joint will be a solid one. I just made a dozen or so of these joints last weekend on my TR3 and the biggest problem I had was caffine related. Trying to hold the soldering gun sdeady for the 30 seconds or so on a bullet ballanced precariously on the end of a small, wavering wire while trying to apply solder with the other required much concentration for this old man. It ain't easy and I have quite a bit of experience in electrical soldering. Dave From dconnitt at fuse.net Sun Mar 4 08:55:21 2012 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2012 10:55:21 -0500 Subject: [TR] soldering In-Reply-To: <1330833634.80552.YahooMailNeo@web65506.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <1330833634.80552.YahooMailNeo@web65506.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4B28183FBFF549459AB63A03C57437FF@DaveLaptop> Gary, Use 63/37 resin core solder. The numbers denote the tin/lead content. You should be able to pick it up at your local radio shack. Don't use anything larger than .060 diameter. I am not sure that plumbing solder has a flux core and you really need that to solder electrical connections. Your soldering iron should be sufficient to solder wires to terminals. Also, make sure your solder tip is clean and tinned. Get yourself a small sponge (also from Radio Shack) and drag the hot soldering iron over the wet sponge then apply solder to the tip. Repeat until the entire tip is nice and shiny solder coated. Excuse me for telling you this if you already know you must tin your iron but just in case... Dave Connitt '67 TR4A IRS http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a From jwalker at mainet.com Sun Mar 4 09:08:08 2012 From: jwalker at mainet.com (John Walker) Date: Sun, 04 Mar 2012 11:08:08 -0500 Subject: [TR] Recalcitrant TR3B Engine Message-ID: <4F534D18020000EF0000C7B7@smtp.mainet.com> List, I have reached the point in the restoration of TR-3B TS68368 where the engine should run, but I cannot get it started. After engine rebuild, including new pistons and liners, I have verified following: 1. Fuel: a. Rebuilt cards b. Fuel supply to carbs good c. Float bowls full d. Carb needle settings - tried 10 to 13 flats 2. Valve train a. Verified valve timing - # 1 cylinder valves both closed at TDC b. Verified valve gaps set to .012 3. Ignition a. Timing verified as correct with visual check of rotor position at #1 cylinder TDC. b. Plugs getting spark. c. Verified firing order. d. Replaced electronic ignition with points & condenser e. Point gap set to .013. f. Engine fires strongly when starter fluid sprayed into carbs which indicates that the ignition system is working properly. What have I missed? Incidentially, this block also has "TR 3" painted on the left side in orange. I elected not to paint the block to preserve this original marking. TIA, John W From aljlthomson at charter.net Sun Mar 4 09:21:56 2012 From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2012 11:21:56 -0500 Subject: [TR] soldering In-Reply-To: <1330833634.80552.YahooMailNeo@web65506.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <1330833634.80552.YahooMailNeo@web65506.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000c01ccfa22$eb2f7610$c18e6230$@charter.net> Here's another twist on current solder. I recently found out that electronic solder is now often a tin/copper alloy - no lead at all. Student electronic kits from Elenco have been supplied with no-lead solder for several years now. Probably it is a result of the government attempting to keep us safe. After all, I know that I must have enjoyed chewing on electrical solder joints as a three year old. Alex Thomson -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary Nafziger Sent: Saturday, March 03, 2012 11:01 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] soldering On one of the recent posts I read where someone mentioned not having good luck soldering electrical connections. I have been having an awful time soldering. My soldering iron is a Weller 140/100 watt and the solder I'm using is the same solder I used for soldering plumbing joints. It takes a long time to get the solder to melt even if i place the soldering gun directly on the solder itself. And its basically impossible to get the joint hot enough to melt the solder as the directions tell you to do. It's been the most frustrating thing I've had to try to learn. Do I need a larger soldering iron or do I need different solder? Is there a solder specifically for electrical connections in cars that has a lower melting point? thanks! gary n. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net From jwalker at mainet.com Sun Mar 4 09:27:36 2012 From: jwalker at mainet.com (John Walker) Date: Sun, 04 Mar 2012 11:27:36 -0500 Subject: [TR] Soldering Message-ID: <4F5351A8020000EF0000C7D0@smtp.mainet.com> When I was installing the new Advance Auto WIre harness in TS 68368, I too had difficulty keeping good contact between terminals and the tip of the Weller gun. I found a small, gas pencil torch at the local Home Despot which provides almost instant heat, and more importantly, doesn't require direct contact with the parts being soldered. Made the task much faster and easier. John -------------------------------------------------- Original Message From: Dave1massey at cs.com To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] soldering Message-ID: <3d9c7.41ec44ee.3c84e8e6 at cs.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" In a message dated 3/3/2012 10:00:42 PM Central Standard Time, nafzigerg at yahoo.com writes: > Do I need a larger soldering iron or do I need > different solder? Is there a solder specifically for electrical > connections > in cars that has a lower melting point? > You have received a couple of well informed replies already but let me add my technique to the list. The secret to soldering is to get the parts hot enough to melt the solder. I apply a small ammount of solder to the tip of the soldering gun/iron as this will greatly improve heat transfer. Then I heat the bullet since this is the largets mass. I then apply the solder to the bullet. When it gets hot enough the solder will begin to melt and I feed the solder in to make the joint. With that ammount of heat and the bullet hot enough the wire will quickly heat up enough to take up the solder and the joint will be a solid one. I just made a dozen or so of these joints last weekend on my TR3 and the biggest problem I had was caffine related. Trying to hold the soldering gun sdeady for the 30 seconds or so on a bullet ballanced precariously on the end of a small, wavering wire while trying to apply solder with the other required much concentration for this old man. It ain't easy and I have quite a bit of experience in electrical soldering. Dave From dkspence at telus.net Sun Mar 4 10:04:44 2012 From: dkspence at telus.net (don spence) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2012 10:04:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] Broken Clutch Pedal In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I only use the one in the middle for "braking". Works well when the rest of the system is in good order. : > On 2012-03-04, at 9:08 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > From: William Brewer > Date: March 4, 2012 7:35:52 AM MST > To: Triumphs > Subject: [TR] Broken Clutch Pedal > > > So I was letting my daughter drive my TR3A on an unseasonably warm day. > When she came back she was complaining that the clutch pedal was weird. I > checked it out and sure enough, the weld that holds the pedal to the tubular > shaft had given way and the pedal was all wonky. Glad it wasn't the brake pedal. > I haven't had a chance to get to it yet to fix it. I have a spare pedal assembly > and can just get another brake pedal, but I am thinking about using the original > pedal and strengthening it with a better weld and maybe a gusset. > Anyone else had problems with pedals braking? > > Bill in Tehachapi From leejohn7 at gmail.com Sun Mar 4 10:20:56 2012 From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2012 09:20:56 -0800 Subject: [TR] soldering In-Reply-To: <3d9c7.41ec44ee.3c84e8e6@cs.com> References: <3d9c7.41ec44ee.3c84e8e6@cs.com> Message-ID: I'm with you on that, Dave. I usually try to position a wooden carpentry clamp so that it can gently hold the wire while I apply the iron to the bullet. John Howard On Sun, Mar 4, 2012 at 7:48 AM, wrote: > In a message dated 3/3/2012 10:00:42 PM Central Standard Time, > nafzigerg at yahoo.com writes: > > Do I need a larger soldering iron or do I need > > different solder? Is there a solder specifically for electrical > > connections > > in cars that has a lower melting point? > > > > You have received a couple of well informed replies already but let me add > my technique to the list. > > The secret to soldering is to get the parts hot enough to melt the solder. > I apply a small ammount of solder to the tip of the soldering gun/iron as > this will greatly improve heat transfer. Then I heat the bullet since this > is the largets mass. I then apply the solder to the bullet. When it gets > hot enough the solder will begin to melt and I feed the solder in to make > the > joint. With that ammount of heat and the bullet hot enough the wire will > quickly heat up enough to take up the solder and the joint will be a solid > one. > > I just made a dozen or so of these joints last weekend on my TR3 and the > biggest problem I had was caffine related. Trying to hold the soldering > gun > sdeady for the 30 seconds or so on a bullet ballanced precariously on the > end > of a small, wavering wire while trying to apply solder with the other > required much concentration for this old man. > > It ain't easy and I have quite a bit of experience in electrical soldering. > > Dave > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/leejohn7 at gmail.com From rpeglow at optonline.net Sun Mar 4 10:21:10 2012 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Sun, 04 Mar 2012 12:21:10 -0500 Subject: [TR] Headlight cleaning In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hello List, There is a haze on the inside of my headlights. I remember this being discussed on the List but cannot find it. It was about removing the headlight, then the bulb and sloshing a suitable liquid about the inside, draining and letting it dry. Suggestions most appreciated. Thank you. Regards, Bob From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Mar 4 10:29:34 2012 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2012 12:29:34 -0500 Subject: [TR] Soldering In-Reply-To: <4F5351A8020000EF0000C7D0@smtp.mainet.com> References: <4F5351A8020000EF0000C7D0@smtp.mainet.com> Message-ID: <0BC97AECFDC94402834FFE4419767AA4@BobPC> I installed the AAW harness (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/Wire_Harness_1.htm) back in 2004 and did all the soldering with a mini butane torch. That technique works great on the AAW harness wire because the wire is "type SXL cross-linked polyethylene, rated at 125 degrees C (about 260 degrees F), spiral striped" and the solder melted before the wire insulation. It didn't work on those few connections that re-used the old wire (mostly the hardwired bulbs) as the insulation melted very quickly. Bob Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 1975 TR6 with: Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff & CVJs -----Original Message----- From: John Walker Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2012 11:27 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Soldering When I was installing the new Advance Auto WIre harness in TS 68368, I too had difficulty keeping good contact between terminals and the tip of the Weller gun. I found a small, gas pencil torch at the local Home Despot which provides almost instant heat, and more importantly, doesn't require direct contact with the parts being soldered. Made the task much faster and easier. John -------------------------------------------------- Original Message From: Dave1massey at cs.com To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] soldering Message-ID: <3d9c7.41ec44ee.3c84e8e6 at cs.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" In a message dated 3/3/2012 10:00:42 PM Central Standard Time, nafzigerg at yahoo.com writes: > Do I need a larger soldering iron or do I need > different solder? Is there a solder specifically for electrical > connections > in cars that has a lower melting point? > You have received a couple of well informed replies already but let me add my technique to the list. The secret to soldering is to get the parts hot enough to melt the solder. I apply a small ammount of solder to the tip of the soldering gun/iron as this will greatly improve heat transfer. Then I heat the bullet since this is the largets mass. I then apply the solder to the bullet. When it gets hot enough the solder will begin to melt and I feed the solder in to make the joint. With that ammount of heat and the bullet hot enough the wire will quickly heat up enough to take up the solder and the joint will be a solid one. I just made a dozen or so of these joints last weekend on my TR3 and the biggest problem I had was caffine related. Trying to hold the soldering gun sdeady for the 30 seconds or so on a bullet ballanced precariously on the end of a small, wavering wire while trying to apply solder with the other required much concentration for this old man. It ain't easy and I have quite a bit of experience in electrical soldering. Dave ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From rpeglow at optonline.net Sun Mar 4 10:32:06 2012 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Sun, 04 Mar 2012 12:32:06 -0500 Subject: [TR] Brake/clutch bleeding In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hello List, I rebuilt my clutch master and replaced the slave. I did the job a few years ago using the speed-bleeder solution. It could not be easier - NFI. Regards, Bob From JPayne at ThorCon.net Sun Mar 4 10:42:46 2012 From: JPayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2012 17:42:46 +0000 Subject: [TR] Recalcitrant TR3B Engine In-Reply-To: <4F534D18020000EF0000C7B7@smtp.mainet.com> References: <4F534D18020000EF0000C7B7@smtp.mainet.com> Message-ID: <5891B364A7C3594B9466304B59E65B1C042116A0@ex1mbx01.onthenetoffice.com> Symptoms sound very familiar. Verify that your intake manifold is seated squarely on the head. It is very easy to have a gap at the bottom that would prevent vacuum. It is also very difficult to see from the top and everything will look fine. I was stumped by this once, and had the same thing happen again years later on a head gasket replacement, and after 10 minutes, identified the same problem. If it happened to me 2 out of 8 times I've had the manifolds off of a TR3, either I'm an idiot, or it's a common problem. Other than that, check vacuum and make sure you have it. Jonas Payne PBR Cell: (702) 358-5084 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Walker Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2012 8:08 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Recalcitrant TR3B Engine List, I have reached the point in the restoration of TR-3B TS68368 where the engine should run, but I cannot get it started. After engine rebuild, including new pistons and liners, I have verified following: 1. Fuel: a. Rebuilt cards b. Fuel supply to carbs good c. Float bowls full d. Carb needle settings - tried 10 to 13 flats 2. Valve train a. Verified valve timing - # 1 cylinder valves both closed at TDC b. Verified valve gaps set to .012 3. Ignition a. Timing verified as correct with visual check of rotor position at #1 cylinder TDC. b. Plugs getting spark. c. Verified firing order. d. Replaced electronic ignition with points & condenser e. Point gap set to .013. f. Engine fires strongly when starter fluid sprayed into carbs which indicates that the ignition system is working properly. What have I missed? Incidentially, this block also has "TR 3" painted on the left side in orange. I elected not to paint the block to preserve this original marking. TIA, John W ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jpayne at thorcon.net From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Mar 4 10:53:41 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2012 12:53:41 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Broken Clutch Pedal Message-ID: In a message dated 3/4/2012 11:09:21 AM Central Standard Time, dkspence at telus.net writes: > I only use the one in the middle for "braking". > If you fail to "brake" you will "break." Dave From mmarr at notwires.com Sun Mar 4 10:54:31 2012 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2012 11:54:31 -0600 Subject: [TR] brake/clutch bleeding kit recommendation In-Reply-To: <3c473.fbb0cd7.3c84da38@cs.com> References: <3c473.fbb0cd7.3c84da38@cs.com> Message-ID: Irv must be extremely wise because he is no spring chicken. Mike :) -------------------------------------------------- From: Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2012 8:46 AM To: Subject: Re: [TR] brake/clutch bleeding kit recommendation > In a message dated 3/3/2012 12:18:06 PM Central Standard Time, > emanteno at comcast.net writes: >> The most economical bleeding kit that I have used is to have my wife work >> the pedals, and when we're finished, I take her out to dinner. >> > > A man wise well beyond his years. > > Dave > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mmarr at notwires.com From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Mar 4 10:55:10 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2012 12:55:10 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] soldering Message-ID: In a message dated 3/4/2012 11:20:56 AM Central Standard Time, leejohn7 at gmail.com writes: > I'm with you on that, Dave. I usually try to position a wooden carpentry > clamp so that it can gently hold the wire while I apply the iron to the > bullet. > Good idea. If only I had one. Even so doing it in situ doesn't lend itself to such things sometimes. Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Mar 4 10:57:50 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2012 12:57:50 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] brake/clutch bleeding kit recommendation Message-ID: In a message dated 3/4/2012 11:54:40 AM Central Standard Time, mmarr at notwires.com writes: > Irv must be extremely wise because he is no spring chicken. > Yeah. He's almost as old as I am. From dkspence at telus.net Sun Mar 4 11:12:33 2012 From: dkspence at telus.net (don spence) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2012 11:12:33 -0700 Subject: [TR] Broken Clutch Pedal In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4E700559-2C23-48F7-B949-7EBE80452427@telus.net> ...and all will be broken and you will be broke. : ( On 2012-03-04, at 10:53 AM, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > In a message dated 3/4/2012 11:09:21 AM Central Standard Time, dkspence at telus.net writes: >> I only use the one in the middle for "braking". > > If you fail to "brake" you will "break." > > Dave From cofrog at q.com Sun Mar 4 11:24:26 2012 From: cofrog at q.com (cofrog at q.com) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2012 13:24:26 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Gearbox Number In-Reply-To: <130172256.210345.1330885386173.JavaMail.root@md04.quartz.synacor.com> Message-ID: <663775353.210367.1330885466960.JavaMail.root@md04.quartz.synacor.com> Does anyone know if a TR4 gearbox with the number 304692SM on the right side of the casing is out of a TR4 or TR4A? Thanks, Dan From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Mar 4 11:25:04 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2012 10:25:04 -0800 Subject: [TR] soldering In-Reply-To: <000c01ccfa22$eb2f7610$c18e6230$@charter.net> References: <1330833634.80552.YahooMailNeo@web65506.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> <000c01ccfa22$eb2f7610$c18e6230$@charter.net> Message-ID: <069501ccfa34$1ec126c0$0301a8c0@randall> > After all, I know that I must have enjoyed chewing on > electrical solder > joints as a three year old. Actually, I believe they are more concerned about the result of electronic devices containing lead being put in landfills; where the lead can leach into the water supply. I forget which authority it is offhand, but there are some countries where it will soon be illegal to sell products containing lead solder. This has been a major headache for the entire electronics industry; and explains the availability of lead-free electronic solder. The two kinds of solder are not compatible with each other; and most electronic components (ICs, resistors, capacitors, etc) are supplied with solder on the connection points. Fortunately, the US has taken a different direction (keep the electronics out of the landfills) for now, and so one can still buy lead solder here. FWIW Autism-type disorders have risen sharply in the US and the rest of the world in recent decades. How much, if any, of that is being caused by mothers having lead in their bodies is not yet known; although there has been a strong correlation shown, it is not clear that it is cause-and-effect. But it seems unlikely to be purely coincidence. I'm not suggesting you should go out and hug a tree, only that there may be some legitimate reason for concern here. -- Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Mar 4 11:40:10 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2012 10:40:10 -0800 Subject: [TR] Recalcitrant TR3B Engine In-Reply-To: <4F534D18020000EF0000C7B7@smtp.mainet.com> References: <4F534D18020000EF0000C7B7@smtp.mainet.com> Message-ID: <069901ccfa36$3b2c51c0$0301a8c0@randall> > a. Timing verified as correct with visual check of rotor > position at #1 cylinder TDC. Was that with #1 ready to fire? Each piston comes to TDC twice per cycle; the spark has to hit the right one (which is when both valves are closed). > d. Carb needle settings - tried 10 to 13 flats Carb needle setting should be irrelevant at this point; you should be using the choke which means the jets will be pulled down and not resting against the adjustment at all. > f. Engine fires strongly when starter fluid sprayed into carbs which > indicates that the ignition system is working properly Can you keep it running on the starter fluid? Or does it just fire once or twice and not actually start? If the former, then it is clearly not getting enough fuel. Try giving it more choke. If that doesn't work, drain and replace the fuel. Modern fuel spoils quickly when stored in a vented tank (like the TR3 tank). If the latter, I would suspect the timing is 180 out. BTDT > b. Verified valve gaps set to .012 > e. Point gap set to .013. Is there some reason you aren't using the factory values (.010 and .015 respectively)? I doubt that is the problem, I'm just curious. Another possibility based on your report would be a largish intake vacuum leak, like maybe the intake manifold is not correctly seated against the head. It can sometimes catch on the alignment pins and stick out at the bottom where it is hard to see. Or if the head has been machined to increase compression, the manifold may catch on the edge of the block and cause the same problem. I have also seen problems caused by tightening the nuts on the connection between intake and exhaust, before having both manifolds clamped to the head. (I leave those nuts off on my TR.) -- Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Mar 4 11:55:28 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2012 10:55:28 -0800 Subject: [TR] soldering In-Reply-To: <3d9c7.41ec44ee.3c84e8e6@cs.com> References: <3d9c7.41ec44ee.3c84e8e6@cs.com> Message-ID: <06a301ccfa38$5e2aaf30$0301a8c0@randall> > Trying to hold > the soldering gun > sdeady for the 30 seconds or so on a bullet ballanced > precariously on the end > of a small, wavering wire while trying to apply solder with the other > required much concentration for this old man. FWIW, I find that much easier if I gently clamp the wire in the bench vise, so the bullet is resting on top of the vise jaws. That way I can rest the tip of the iron on top of the bullet, in the slight vee formed by the flat tip of the bullet and the wire sticking out. Reading glasses help too. The increased pressure between gun tip and bullet helps transfer heat, while the bullet resting on the jaws helps keep the bottom end cooler (so less likely to melt the PVC insulation). http://goo.gl/Sgt2o One other thing I forgot to mention before, the wire _must_ be clean "new penny" color. If it has become darker brown (like an old penny) then the surface is covered with copper oxide that must be removed before you can get a good solder joint. In the past, I've used my pocket knife to scrape all sides of each strand (a rather tedious process). Recently I've been experimenting with using Tarn-X to remove the oxide, which seems to work quite well. What I don't know is whether using it will promote corrosion in the future, but so far there is no sign of problems even on connections I made in 2008 to the original, 50+ year old wire. -- Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Mar 4 12:03:14 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2012 11:03:14 -0800 Subject: [TR] [Fot] Gearbox Number In-Reply-To: <663775353.210367.1330885466960.JavaMail.root@md04.quartz.synacor.com> References: <130172256.210345.1330885386173.JavaMail.root@md04.quartz.synacor.com> <663775353.210367.1330885466960.JavaMail.root@md04.quartz.synacor.com> Message-ID: <06a701ccfa39$73ef1530$0301a8c0@randall> > Does anyone know if a TR4 gearbox with the number 304692SM on > the right side of the casing is out of a TR4 or TR4A? What difference does it make? That is a casting number, and AFAIK the castings were the same between 4 and 4A. You need to look for the serial number, which I think should be on the LH side, on the boss for the clutch shaft and start with the letters CT. -- Randall From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Mar 4 12:13:57 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2012 14:13:57 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Broken Clutch Pedal Message-ID: <91e89.2d42c917.3c8518f5@cs.com> The sage has spoken and all has been spoke. Um... In a message dated 3/4/2012 12:12:39 PM Central Standard Time, dkspence at telus.net writes: > ...and all will be broken and you will be broke. : ( From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Mar 4 12:22:51 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2012 14:22:51 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] soldering Message-ID: <923df.3308c4e7.3c851b0a@cs.com> In a message dated 3/4/2012 12:55:36 PM Central Standard Time, TR3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > FWIW, I find that much easier if I gently clamp the wire in the bench > vise, > so the bullet is resting on top of the vise jaws. That way I can rest the > tip of the iron on top of the bullet, in the slight vee formed by the flat > tip of the bullet and the wire sticking out. Reading glasses help too. > The > increased pressure between gun tip and bullet helps transfer heat, while > the > bullet resting on the jaws helps keep the bottom end cooler (so less > likely > to melt the PVC insulation). > When that is an option. In my case I was soldering bullets on the brake and tail light wires of the harness already installed in the car with the wires sticking out the lamp holes. I could have removed the harness and done it in the vace but I opted for what appeared to be the easier route when setting out. General comment: the other route is to buy the crimpers and the crimp style bullets which makes the whole precess much easier. But if you're only doing a couple and if your cheap like me... Dave From cofrog at q.com Sun Mar 4 12:34:50 2012 From: cofrog at q.com (cofrog at q.com) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2012 14:34:50 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Gearbox Number Correction In-Reply-To: <663775353.210367.1330885466960.JavaMail.root@md04.quartz.synacor.com> Message-ID: <149303509.211872.1330889690801.JavaMail.root@md04.quartz.synacor.com> Oops. I gave a casting number. The serial number is ct19808. Dan ----- Original Message ----- From: cofrog at q.com To: "triumph" , "triumph fot" Sent: Sunday, March 4, 2012 11:24:26 AM Subject: [TR] Gearbox Number Does anyone know if a TR4 gearbox with the number 304692SM on the right side of the casing is out of a TR4 or TR4A? Thanks, Dan ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cofrog at q.com From levilevi at comcast.net Sun Mar 4 12:45:58 2012 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2012 12:45:58 -0700 Subject: [TR] Recalcitrant TR3B Engine In-Reply-To: <069901ccfa36$3b2c51c0$0301a8c0@randall> References: <4F534D18020000EF0000C7B7@smtp.mainet.com> <069901ccfa36$3b2c51c0$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <824B77A6-774E-4E0B-9711-BD2B8D4170F3@comcast.net> I'd guess Jonas and Randall are on to something with the intake manifold not being flush. If after cranking the engine the plugs aren't wet, and if the float chambers are full as you said, then your mixture isn't getting to the cylinders. Can you feel gas at the bottom of the intake manifold or smell excess gas or feel a gap for that matter? Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net >> > > Can you keep it running on the starter fluid? Or does it just fire > once or > twice and not actually start? > > If the former, then it is clearly not getting enough fuel. Try > giving it > more choke. If that doesn't work, drain and replace the fuel. > Modern fuel > spoils quickly when stored in a vented tank (like the TR3 tank). > > If the latter, I would suspect the timing is 180 out. BTDT > >> b. Verified valve gaps set to .012 >> e. Point gap set to .013. > > Is there some reason you aren't using the factory values (.010 and . > 015 > respectively)? I doubt that is the problem, I'm just curious. > > Another possibility based on your report would be a largish intake > vacuum > leak, like maybe the intake manifold is not correctly seated against > the > head. It can sometimes catch on the alignment pins and stick out at > the > bottom where it is hard to see. Or if the head has been machined to > increase compression, the manifold may catch on the edge of the > block and > cause the same problem. I have also seen problems caused by > tightening the > nuts on the connection between intake and exhaust, before having both > manifolds clamped to the head. (I leave those nuts off on my TR.) > > -- Randall From fogbro1 at comcast.net Sun Mar 4 12:48:26 2012 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2012 19:48:26 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] soldering In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1523140104.46915.1330890506484.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> No one's mentioned "tinning" the wire. Doesn't anyone "tin" the wire anymore? I dip the wire in flux, "tin" it, then feed it into the hot bullet, having previously melted solder into the bullet. If off the car, the bullet can be positioned in a vice and the wire fed into it. If on the car, the bullet can be held in a forcepts to minimize heat loss and fed onto the wire . Ed Woods ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lee&John Howard" To: Dave1massey at cs.com Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, March 4, 2012 12:20:56 PM Subject: Re: [TR] soldering I'm with you on that, Dave. I usually try to position a wooden carpentry clamp so that it can gently hold the wire while I apply the iron to the bullet. John Howard On Sun, Mar 4, 2012 at 7:48 AM, wrote: > In a message dated 3/3/2012 10:00:42 PM Central Standard Time, > nafzigerg at yahoo.com writes: > > Do I need a larger soldering iron or do I need > > different solder? B Is there a solder specifically for electrical > > connections > > in cars that has a lower melting point? > > > > You have received a couple of well informed replies already but let me add > my technique to the list. > > The secret to soldering is to get the parts hot enough to melt the solder. > I apply a small ammount of solder to the tip of the soldering gun/iron as > this will greatly improve heat transfer. B Then I heat the bullet since this > is the largets mass. B I then apply the solder to the bullet. B When it gets > hot enough the solder will begin to melt and I feed the solder in to make > the > joint. B With that ammount of heat and the bullet hot enough the wire will > quickly heat up enough to take up the solder and the joint will be a solid > one. > > I just made a dozen or so of these joints last weekend on my TR3 and the > biggest problem I had was caffine related. B Trying to hold the soldering > gun > sdeady for the 30 seconds or so on a bullet ballanced precariously on the > end > of a small, wavering wire while trying to apply solder with the other > required much concentration for this old man. > > It ain't easy and I have quite a bit of experience in electrical soldering. > > Dave > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/leejohn7 at gmail.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fogbro1 at comcast.net From fishplate at charter.net Sun Mar 4 12:59:22 2012 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff) Date: Sun, 04 Mar 2012 14:59:22 -0500 Subject: [TR] soldering In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4F53C99A.3090101@charter.net> On 3/4/2012 12:55 PM, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > In a message dated 3/4/2012 11:20:56 AM Central Standard Time, > leejohn7 at gmail.com writes: >> I'm with you on that, Dave. I usually try to position a wooden carpentry >> clamp so that it can gently hold the wire while I apply the iron to the >> bullet. >> > > Good idea. If only I had one. Even so doing it in situ doesn't lend > itself to such things sometimes. Clothespins work well, too; and are readily available. You can daisy-chain them if you have to... From don.hiscock at gmail.com Sun Mar 4 13:01:32 2012 From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2012 14:01:32 -0600 Subject: [TR] soldering In-Reply-To: <1330833634.80552.YahooMailNeo@web65506.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <1330833634.80552.YahooMailNeo@web65506.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: There's a school of thought that crimped connectors are better than soldered connections with respect to vibration and mechanical intergrity. Discussions over the last year or two on another forum dealing with expedition and overland travel has included a discussion that crimped is prefered by OEM for this reason. I dunno. It's a lot more work to solder, fershure. I've done both soldered and crimped over the years and both methods have worked fine. A nice crimping tool is almost worth the money just to see how fast and well it does the job. A very good professional mechanic I know does both. Pre-tins the wire, crimps the connector, and then applies a touch of heat to re-flow the solder. Don 1962 TR3B From levilevi at comcast.net Sun Mar 4 13:05:42 2012 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2012 13:05:42 -0700 Subject: [TR] soldering In-Reply-To: <1523140104.46915.1330890506484.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1523140104.46915.1330890506484.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <13214236-17F8-477F-9281-94BD9CBE8FCC@comcast.net> I haven't seen sanding/buffing the surface mentioned either. Putting a "shine" on the metal you want to solder has always worked better for me than not. Solder likes shiny metal and flux. Works similar to welding...if you don't grind it you're not going to get a good weld. Try a tiny round file in the bullet connectors to rough the surface or anything to get the surface layer broken. Scratch it with a pin? Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Mar 4, 2012, at 12:48 PM, fogbro1 at comcast.net wrote: > No one's mentioned "tinning" the wire. Doesn't anyone "tin" the wire > anymore? > > > > I dip the wire in flux, "tin" it, then feed it into the hot bullet, > having > previously melted solder into the bullet. If off the car, the bullet > can be > positioned in a vice and the wire fed into it. If on the car, the > bullet can > be held in a forcepts to minimize heat loss and fed onto the wire . > > > > Ed Woods > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > From: "Lee&John Howard" > To: Dave1massey at cs.com > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Sunday, March 4, 2012 12:20:56 PM > Subject: Re: [TR] soldering > > I'm with you on that, Dave. I usually try to position a wooden > carpentry > clamp so that it can gently hold the wire while I apply the iron to > the > bullet. > John Howard > > > On Sun, Mar 4, 2012 at 7:48 AM, wrote: > >> In a message dated 3/3/2012 10:00:42 PM Central Standard Time, >> nafzigerg at yahoo.com writes: >>> Do I need a larger soldering iron or do I need >>> different solder? B Is there a solder specifically for electrical >>> connections >>> in cars that has a lower melting point? >>> >> >> You have received a couple of well informed replies already but let >> me add >> my technique to the list. >> >> The secret to soldering is to get the parts hot enough to melt the >> solder. >> I apply a small ammount of solder to the tip of the soldering gun/ >> iron as >> this will greatly improve heat transfer. B Then I heat the bullet >> since this >> is the largets mass. B I then apply the solder to the bullet. B >> When it gets >> hot enough the solder will begin to melt and I feed the solder in >> to make >> the >> joint. B With that ammount of heat and the bullet hot enough the >> wire will >> quickly heat up enough to take up the solder and the joint will be >> a solid >> one. >> >> I just made a dozen or so of these joints last weekend on my TR3 >> and the >> biggest problem I had was caffine related. B Trying to hold the >> soldering >> gun >> sdeady for the 30 seconds or so on a bullet ballanced precariously >> on the >> end >> of a small, wavering wire while trying to apply solder with the other >> required much concentration for this old man. >> >> It ain't easy and I have quite a bit of experience in electrical >> soldering. >> >> Dave >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/leejohn7 at gmail.com > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fogbro1 at comcast.net > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net From tfansher at comcast.net Sun Mar 4 13:13:41 2012 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2012 15:13:41 -0500 Subject: [TR] soldering References: <923df.3308c4e7.3c851b0a@cs.com> Message-ID: Dave, what's a working in a vace? Or is that similar to fluif???? Inquiring minds want to know. Oh, by the way, I've got a new Red Ale for the Mitty.... hope to see you there. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2012 2:22 PM Subject: Re: [TR] soldering > In a message dated 3/4/2012 12:55:36 PM Central Standard Time, > TR3driver at ca.rr.com writes: >> FWIW, I find that much easier if I gently clamp the wire in the bench >> vise, >> so the bullet is resting on top of the vise jaws. That way I can rest >> the >> tip of the iron on top of the bullet, in the slight vee formed by the >> flat >> tip of the bullet and the wire sticking out. Reading glasses help too. >> The >> increased pressure between gun tip and bullet helps transfer heat, while >> the >> bullet resting on the jaws helps keep the bottom end cooler (so less >> likely >> to melt the PVC insulation). >> > When that is an option. In my case I was soldering bullets on the brake > and tail light wires of the harness already installed in the car with the > wires sticking out the lamp holes. I could have removed the harness and > done it > in the vace but I opted for what appeared to be the easier route when > setting out. > > General comment: the other route is to buy the crimpers and the crimp > style > bullets which makes the whole precess much easier. But if you're only > doing a couple and if your cheap like me... > > Dave From mark at bradakis.com Sun Mar 4 13:17:46 2012 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sun, 04 Mar 2012 13:17:46 -0700 Subject: [TR] Headlight cleaning In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4F53CDEA.7060808@bradakis.com> Bob wrote: > > I remember this being discussed on the List but cannot find it. > The plan for today is to get the archives working reasonably well, activate searching again and start filling in the missing parts. It is clear, sunny and somewhat warm outside. I'd rather be driving a Triumph! mjb. From dkspence at telus.net Sun Mar 4 13:56:05 2012 From: dkspence at telus.net (don spence) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2012 13:56:05 -0700 Subject: [TR] Soldering In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0688F8F4-24C8-440D-B904-B88324636584@telus.net> 1: use an electrical solder such as KESTER 44 resin core. 2: Use a rosin paste flux An iron with some mass ( hot the huge one you use to solder rain gutters)is better than a gun. To do bullets, get a solid piece of wood and drill holes slightly larger in diameter and shorter in depth than the bullet. Prepare the end of the wire by stripping the insulation. Put the wire in a vice or clamp so you have two hands to work with. Next you "tin" the wire. Apply some flux to the wire and melt a bit of solder on the face of the iron. (use a wedge tip). Apply the iron to the wire. When the wire is hot enough the solder will flow into the multistrand. Add solsder as necessary to fill the end of the wire. Now turn your attention to the bullet. Put the bullet in the hole and put a small quantity of flux in it. Apply the iron to the side of the bullet (with flux in it). As it heats up feed the solder strand into the bullet so it melts and fills the cup. While it is still molten, place the tinned wire into the bullet. Keep the iron on it until the solder in the wire melts then remove the iron and let it cool to a solid joint. Easy peasy. On 2012-03-04, at 11:12 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > From: Dave1massey at cs.com > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] soldering > Message-ID: <3d9c7.41ec44ee.3c84e8e6 at cs.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > In a message dated 3/3/2012 10:00:42 PM Central Standard Time, > nafzigerg at yahoo.com writes: >> Do I need a larger soldering iron or do I need >> different solder? Is there a solder specifically for electrical >> connections >> in cars that has a lower melting point? >> > > You have received a couple of well informed replies already but let me add > my technique to the list. > > The secret to soldering is to get the parts hot enough to melt the solder. > I apply a small ammount of solder to the tip of the soldering gun/iron as > this will greatly improve heat transfer. Then I heat the bullet since this > is the largets mass. I then apply the solder to the bullet. When it gets > hot enough the solder will begin to melt and I feed the solder in to make the > joint. With that ammount of heat and the bullet hot enough the wire will > quickly heat up enough to take up the solder and the joint will be a solid > one. > > I just made a dozen or so of these joints last weekend on my TR3 and the > biggest problem I had was caffine related. Trying to hold the soldering gun > sdeady for the 30 seconds or so on a bullet ballanced precariously on the end > of a small, wavering wire while trying to apply solder with the other > required much concentration for this old man. > > It ain't easy and I have quite a bit of experience in electrical soldering. > > Dave From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Mar 4 14:05:32 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2012 13:05:32 -0800 Subject: [TR] soldering In-Reply-To: References: <1330833634.80552.YahooMailNeo@web65506.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <06d201ccfa4a$89e657c0$0301a8c0@randall> > There's a school of thought that crimped connectors are better than > soldered connections with respect to vibration and mechanical > intergrity. There is another school of thought that says they aren't. I used to work for a company that installed mini computers on board seismic survey ships. We supplied a lot of the electronics and cables that connected the computers to the other systems. Every single installation I went out on, I found at least one dodgy crimped connection; made by trained professionals using carefully calibrated crimping tools. If even a pro using an expensive (and annually recalibrated) tool can't reliably make a good joint, what chance does an amateur have? Oh yeah, they also had a different tool for every combination of connector type and wire size. I've also found lots of DPO crimp joints that were bad. Don't recall ever finding a bad solder joint, except those where the wire wasn't well supported and eventually broke outside the solder. OEMs like crimp because it's cheaper, and easier to automate (or train workers to do by hand). IMO the best type of joint is combination crimp and solder, which is what I use when I get the chance. -- Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Mar 4 14:08:25 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2012 13:08:25 -0800 Subject: [TR] soldering In-Reply-To: <923df.3308c4e7.3c851b0a@cs.com> References: <923df.3308c4e7.3c851b0a@cs.com> Message-ID: <06d301ccfa4a$f0b09510$0301a8c0@randall> > When that is an option. In my case I was soldering bullets > on the brake > and tail light wires of the harness already installed in the > car with the > wires sticking out the lamp holes. Forceps or needle-nose vice grips instead of the vise. In some cases, I've gone as far as joining the bullet to a short length of wire and then doing a "lineman's" splice covered in heat shrink on the car. -- Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Mar 4 14:21:09 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2012 13:21:09 -0800 Subject: [TR] soldering In-Reply-To: <06d201ccfa4a$89e657c0$0301a8c0@randall> References: <1330833634.80552.YahooMailNeo@web65506.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> <06d201ccfa4a$89e657c0$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <06d401ccfa4c$b8488280$0301a8c0@randall> > I used to work for a company that installed mini computers on > board seismic > survey ships. Forgot to mention: A seismic survey is done by setting off the equivalent of a keg of dynamite just behind the stern of the ship, every 5-10 seconds literally for days on end. The ship tows a long (can be over 1km) string of microphones, to "listen" to the sound echoing off the layers of rock under the ocean floor. As you might imagine, the vibration on the ship is pretty awful. The entire ship would literally jump by a few inches, every time a "shot" was fired (on top of what the sea was doing, they would keep shooting in weather where a sane person would have headed for port). I learned to not only sleep while they were shooting, but it would wake me up if they stopped. Probably just as well, because it was frequently because our computer system (which was responsible for triggering the shots, among other things) wasn't working right and I would be expected to fix it ASAP no matter what time it was. No pressure, it was just costing the owner thousands of dollars per minute while I tried to figure out which (crimped) connection was bad, or whether it was a software bug to be fixed, or a board to be replaced. Typically, they would start to make a circle as soon as shooting stopped, and I had to have things running again by the time the ship & cable got back to where the last shot was fired. -- Randall From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Sun Mar 4 14:40:06 2012 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2012 15:40:06 -0600 Subject: [TR] soldering In-Reply-To: <923df.3308c4e7.3c851b0a@cs.com> References: <923df.3308c4e7.3c851b0a@cs.com> Message-ID: When I was working as an electronic tech, I used a device like this to hold what I was soldering. http://images.search.yahoo.com/search/images?_adv_prop=image&fr=sfp&va=solder ing+third+hand Rich White Central, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF###L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! From allenhess at mgcarclub.com Sun Mar 4 14:49:13 2012 From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2012 16:49:13 -0500 Subject: [TR] [Fot] Gearbox Number In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <625557AE-F18D-4E9A-8B24-57C44E69F640@mgcarclub.com> I don't know when the exact change point occurred (ie serial #) but the TR4 bell housing flange is thinner, about 1/4" thick. The TR4A flange is about twice as thick and has reinforcing ribs on the bell housing. Allen On Mar 4, 2012, at 3:56 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > >> Does anyone know if a TR4 gearbox with the number 304692SM on >> the right side of the casing is out of a TR4 or TR4A? From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Sun Mar 4 15:23:32 2012 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2012 15:23:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] soldering In-Reply-To: References: <923df.3308c4e7.3c851b0a@cs.com> Message-ID: That's what I often use, this one: http://www.harborfreight.com/helping-hands-319.html Geo On Sun, Mar 4, 2012 at 2:40 PM, Rich White wrote: > When I was working as an electronic tech, I used a device like this to hold > what I was soldering. > > http://images.search.yahoo.com/search/images?_adv_prop=image&fr=sfp&va=soldering+third+hand From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Mar 4 16:36:20 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2012 18:36:20 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] soldering Message-ID: <2f296.5811f5f6.3c855674@cs.com> In a message dated 3/4/2012 1:59:28 PM Central Standard Time, fishplate at charter.net writes: > Clothespins work well, too; and are readily available. You can > daisy-chain them if you have to... > Ooo. If I get that close to the laundry anything could happen. ;-) Seriously, that's a good idea. I have one labeled Stan's Parts but that is for the choke cable. Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Mar 4 16:39:55 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2012 18:39:55 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] soldering Message-ID: <2f3e8.6541cb82.3c85574b@cs.com> In a message dated 3/4/2012 2:13:27 PM Central Standard Time, tfansher at comcast.net writes: > Dave, what's a working in a vace? Or is that similar to fluif???? > Inquiring minds want to know. Oh, by the way, I've got a new Red Ale for > the > Mitty.... hope to see you there. > Exactly. Joe and I are going to publish a dictionary some day. Can't make the Mitty, sorry. I have to attend a wedding that weekend. I have a Belgian Double to brew but I havven't found time to start it. Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Mar 4 16:47:47 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2012 18:47:47 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] soldering Message-ID: <2f6ec.2f39d9f5.3c855923@cs.com> In a message dated 3/4/2012 3:40:07 PM Central Standard Time, rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com writes: > When I was working as an electronic tech, I used a device like this to > hold what I was soldering. > > http://images.search.yahoo.com/search/images?_adv_prop=image&fr=sfp& > va=soldering+third+hand > > These are nice but since I had a really nice, unseasonable day on a rare free weekend I couldn't wait and I did get the job done, it was just a bit more frustrating than it could have been. Thanks for the tip. Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Mar 4 17:05:43 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2012 19:05:43 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] "toilet seat" screws Message-ID: <15ba8.4e2d902a.3c855d57@cs.com> Can anyone tell me what the thread size and pitch of the screws used to attach the escutions (toilet seats) on the TR3 boot lid and spare tire cover? I have an old screw (I think) and I thought it was a #6-32 but the thread pitch is all wrong. It isn't 40 TPI as it won't mesh with a 4-40 screw and it's not .7mm either. I can get the screws from Moss but I would like to clean all the body putty out of the threads on the lit before I bind up a screw and break it off. Thanks. Dave 57 TR3 From tony at tonydrews.com Sun Mar 4 17:16:24 2012 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sun, 04 Mar 2012 18:16:24 -0600 Subject: [TR] soldering In-Reply-To: <06d201ccfa4a$89e657c0$0301a8c0@randall> References: <1330833634.80552.YahooMailNeo@web65506.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> <06d201ccfa4a$89e657c0$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: Echoing Randall... In my race car, I've eliminated every single crimped joint in any circuit that I care about. I remove the insulation from the crimp on connecter, I crimp the connector on, then solder it, then wrap the exposed area with heat shrink tubing. I've also eliminated every single in-line coupling that I could. The car had a largely stock wiring harness (with 2 fuses) when I got the car, now has six fuses - ignition, fuel, overdrive, cool suit, and a couple more that I don't recall right now. All switches use screw terminals rather than the more modern push on connectors. For the switches in the top of the OD where I have no choice but to use push on connectors, I've drilled small holes through them and put tiny bolts through them, then covered them with silicone sealant. I did have one of my screw on switch terminals come loose once since I did this in 2003. And, I wore through a wire to the fuel pump which caused that circuit to blow (THAT won't happen again - re-routed the wire). I hate electrical problems. Tony At 03:05 PM 3/4/2012, Randall wrote: > > There's a school of thought that crimped connectors are better than > > soldered connections with respect to vibration and mechanical > > intergrity. > >There is another school of thought that says they aren't. > >I used to work for a company that installed mini computers on board seismic >survey ships. We supplied a lot of the electronics and cables that >connected the computers to the other systems. Every single installation I >went out on, I found at least one dodgy crimped connection; made by trained >professionals using carefully calibrated crimping tools. If even a pro >using an expensive (and annually recalibrated) tool can't reliably make a >good joint, what chance does an amateur have? Oh yeah, they also had a >different tool for every combination of connector type and wire size. > >I've also found lots of DPO crimp joints that were bad. Don't recall ever >finding a bad solder joint, except those where the wire wasn't well >supported and eventually broke outside the solder. > >OEMs like crimp because it's cheaper, and easier to automate (or train >workers to do by hand). > >IMO the best type of joint is combination crimp and solder, which is what I >use when I get the chance. > >-- Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Mar 4 17:29:26 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2012 16:29:26 -0800 Subject: [TR] "toilet seat" screws In-Reply-To: <15ba8.4e2d902a.3c855d57@cs.com> References: <15ba8.4e2d902a.3c855d57@cs.com> Message-ID: <001001ccfa67$05bc6530$0301a8c0@randall> 4BA, I think. Might be the wrong number, but they are definitely BA, not UN/SAE threads. -- Randall From Pat.L at comcast.net Sun Mar 4 18:40:13 2012 From: Pat.L at comcast.net (Pat Ledford) Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2012 01:40:13 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR6 tail light bulb holders In-Reply-To: <4F52551C.5000304@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <1380342091.2089606.1330911613712.JavaMail.root@sz0129a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> I believe Scott Harper at Team T riumph carries them.B I need a set myself but have not progressed to the point of needing them. Pat ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Labuz" To: thenicholls at verizon.net Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Saturday, March 3, 2012 12:30:04 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 tail light bulb holders Craig, I also wanted a set for my 72 so I emailed BlueChips but he said that his British supplier did not stock them anymore. Bob On 03/03/2012 11:40 AM, thenicholls at verizon.net wrote: > B On my 1972 Triumph TR6, I was planning to work on all six bulb holders in the tail lights using the soldering method on the Buckeye web site. > > I then realized that I did not have a soldering gun with enough power to do the job. > > I would like to purchase a new set of the six where they have the extra prong on them so they each can be grounded like on Bob Danielson's website. > > The guy on Ebay (BlueChips2001) no longer lists them, does anyone on the list have a source for these? > > Thanks, > > Craig ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pat.l at comcast.net From ghaynestr4 at aol.com Sun Mar 4 19:59:24 2012 From: ghaynestr4 at aol.com (George Haynes) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2012 21:59:24 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Gearbox Castings In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CEC8931AF22C81-18B8-2D996@webmail-m102.sysops.aol.com> Re: TR4 vs. TR4A gearbox castings: they're not the same. TR4A's and later have a much thicker flange where the bellhousing bolts to the engine. There may be some other minor differences but I'm sure of the flange thickness difference. Changed from spring to diaphragm clutches at the same time. George Does anyone know if a TR4 gearbox with the number 304692SM on > the right side of the casing is out of a TR4 or TR4A? What difference does it make?That is a casting number, and AFAIK the castings were the same between 4 and4A. From levilevi at comcast.net Sun Mar 4 20:56:31 2012 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Sun, 4 Mar 2012 20:56:31 -0700 Subject: [TR] soldering In-Reply-To: <061301ccf9cc$94135000$0301a8c0@randall> References: <1330833634.80552.YahooMailNeo@web65506.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> <1330835096.8232.YahooMailNeo@web181019.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <061301ccf9cc$94135000$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <07520E45-881C-4E3E-8598-C74ABB99B303@comcast.net> I read your Father's advice and went out and checked the soldering irons, etc. that I had that were not performing and that I'd given up on. Per his advice I took the tips out of a gun and two irons and they all went crazy hot onced I'd wire wheeled and sanded off the buildup stuff that was on the tips, the threads, the ends, everything. It was like getting three new tools. Thanks Randall's Dad. I had the pleasure of meeting your father at VTR in Rockville and he is a sage gentleman and quite the character. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Mar 3, 2012, at 11:03 PM, Randall wrote: > A secret that my Dad taught me years ago : The output of those > Weller guns > will fall off over time. You can get it back by loosening and then > firmly > retightening the two nuts that hold the tip to the gun. > > The soldering gun tip also erodes with usage and occasionally needs > to be > dressed back to it's original chisel shape, and re-tinned. Using an > eroded > or poorly tinned tip will greatly reduce heat transfer to the > joint. Once > the chisel part is gone, you need a new tip. From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Mar 5 05:18:06 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2012 07:18:06 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] "toilet seat" screws Message-ID: <1f9a5.334781f6.3c8608fe@cs.com> In a message dated 3/4/2012 6:29:27 PM Central Standard Time, TR3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > 4BA, I think. Might be the wrong number, but they are definitely BA, not > UN/SAE threads. > > Thanks. Um, I just checked my favorite hardware store (McMaster Carr) and it seems they don't carry any BA taps. Where can one acquire one? Thanks again. Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Mar 5 05:35:13 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2012 07:35:13 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] soldering Message-ID: <1fe8d.677eba6d.3c860d01@cs.com> In a message dated 3/4/2012 1:48:25 PM Central Standard Time, fogbro1 at comcast.net writes: > No one's mentioned "tinning" the wire. Doesn't anyone "tin" the wire > anymore? > > > > I dip the wire in flux, "tin" it, then feed it into the hot bullet, > having previously melted solder into the bullet. If off the car, the bullet can > be positioned in a vice and the wire fed into it. If on the car, the bullet > can be held in a forcepts to minimize heat loss and fed onto the wire. > > > > > Good point. One of the most frequent hurdles is to get the wire to take the solder and if it is oxidized it won't take. That is the purpose of the flux, clean off the wire. If you tin the wire beforehand you know the wire will "solder up" once the bullet gets hot and the solder starts to flow. Dave From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Mar 5 09:56:09 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2012 08:56:09 -0800 Subject: [TR] "toilet seat" screws In-Reply-To: <1f9a5.334781f6.3c8608fe@cs.com> References: <1f9a5.334781f6.3c8608fe@cs.com> Message-ID: <00e001ccfaf0$ddadc630$0301a8c0@randall> > I just checked my favorite hardware store > (McMaster Carr) and > it seems they don't carry any BA taps. Where can one acquire one? One source is http://goo.gl/8gdCt -- Randall From anabil007 at comcast.net Mon Mar 5 11:28:22 2012 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh) Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2012 10:28:22 -0800 Subject: [TR] "toilet seat" screws In-Reply-To: <00e001ccfaf0$ddadc630$0301a8c0@randall> References: <1f9a5.334781f6.3c8608fe@cs.com> <00e001ccfaf0$ddadc630$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: I just bought two from Moss ... only problem ... had to spend at least $10.00 ... BUT the put everything in a small package and express mailed it ... On Mar 5, 2012, at 8:56 AM, Randall wrote: >> I just checked my favorite hardware store >> (McMaster Carr) and >> it seems they don't carry any BA taps. Where can one acquire one? > > One source is http://goo.gl/8gdCt > > -- Randall > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/anabil007 at comcast.net "Life is too short to drive Boring Cars" Bill Pugh Wallace, CA Casper 1957 TR3 TS16665L anabil007 at comcast.net From cofrog at q.com Mon Mar 5 11:29:51 2012 From: cofrog at q.com (cofrog at q.com) Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2012 13:29:51 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Gearbox Number Followup In-Reply-To: <734527664.240334.1330972155519.JavaMail.root@md04.quartz.synacor.com> Message-ID: <141375994.240367.1330972191772.JavaMail.root@md04.quartz.synacor.com> Thanks to all who responded. I figured it was an early TR4 gearbox but was confused as it had a short cover for the later clutch. Dan From anabil007 at comcast.net Mon Mar 5 11:38:26 2012 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh) Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2012 10:38:26 -0800 Subject: [TR] soldering In-Reply-To: <1fe8d.677eba6d.3c860d01@cs.com> References: <1fe8d.677eba6d.3c860d01@cs.com> Message-ID: US NAVY Electrical Soldering Manual says "The soldering iron must be applied below the connection to be soldered, and the fluxed solder should melt through all wires of the connection" On Mar 5, 2012, at 4:35 AM, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > In a message dated 3/4/2012 1:48:25 PM Central Standard Time, > fogbro1 at comcast.net writes: >> No one's mentioned "tinning" the wire. Doesn't anyone "tin" the wire >> anymore? >> >> >> >> I dip the wire in flux, "tin" it, then feed it into the hot bullet, >> having previously melted solder into the bullet. If off the car, the bullet can >> be positioned in a vice and the wire fed into it. If on the car, the bullet >> can be held in a forceps to minimize heat loss and fed onto the wire. >> >> "Life is too short to drive Boring Cars" Bill Pugh USN SENIOR CHIEF PETTY OFFICER AWCS ... Electronics Technician Wallace, CA Casper 1957 TR3 TS16665L anabil007 at comcast.net From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Mar 5 11:47:54 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2012 13:47:54 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] "toilet seat" screws Message-ID: <2f138.3d3978da.3c86645a@cs.com> In a message dated 3/5/2012 10:56:11 AM Central Standard Time, TR3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > >I just checked my favorite hardware store > >(McMaster Carr) and > >it seems they don't carry any BA taps. Where can one acquire one? > > One source is http://goo.gl/8gdCt > Thanks. Cool! Dave From spitlist at cox.net Mon Mar 5 11:50:16 2012 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2012 11:50:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] soldering In-Reply-To: References: <1fe8d.677eba6d.3c860d01@cs.com> Message-ID: <1E892839503E4515A0662E73F570F9C1@Vista> (Use Rosin Core Electronics type solder) Heat the iron. Tin the tip of the iron. Heat the wire(s). Tin the wire(s). Join the wires(or wire and post). Place the tip of the iron below where you want the solder connection and let the heat penetrate the wire. Touch the tip of the solder not to the iron but to the wire where you want the connection to be. Let the solder flow into the connection. Works every time. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Pugh Sent: Monday, March 05, 2012 11:38 AM To: Dave1massey at cs.com Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] soldering US NAVY Electrical Soldering Manual says "The soldering iron must be applied below the connection to be soldered, and the fluxed solder should melt through all wires of the connection" On Mar 5, 2012, at 4:35 AM, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > In a message dated 3/4/2012 1:48:25 PM Central Standard Time, > fogbro1 at comcast.net writes: >> No one's mentioned "tinning" the wire. Doesn't anyone "tin" the wire >> anymore? >> >> >> >> I dip the wire in flux, "tin" it, then feed it into the hot bullet, >> having previously melted solder into the bullet. If off the car, the bullet can >> be positioned in a vice and the wire fed into it. If on the car, the bullet >> can be held in a forceps to minimize heat loss and fed onto the wire. >> >> "Life is too short to drive Boring Cars" Bill Pugh USN SENIOR CHIEF PETTY OFFICER AWCS ... Electronics Technician Wallace, CA Casper 1957 TR3 TS16665L anabil007 at comcast.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Mar 5 11:53:25 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2012 13:53:25 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] "toilet seat" screws Message-ID: <2f4a6.4106e673.3c8665a5@cs.com> In a message dated 3/5/2012 12:28:23 PM Central Standard Time, anabil007 at comcast.net writes: > I just bought two from Moss ... only problem ... had to spend at least > $10.00 ... BUT the put everything in a small package and express mailed it > ... > > I already have about $40 worth of stuff on my wish list including 8 screws. I just need to pull the trigger and I hate doing that just to realize that I forgot something. But it still happens. Thanks Dave From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Mar 5 18:37:11 2012 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2012 20:37:11 -0500 Subject: [TR] triumph logo In-Reply-To: <001c01ccf88b$7a19de40$6e4d9ac0$@charter.net> References: <1492e.2fa89ed7.3c80cb73@cs.com><29CC727B728348F3B43B424E08D394F0@ranteer.local><1330644578.36556.YahooMailNeo@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com><55018CB682F2458389A2E93045BE437D@ranteer.local> <001c01ccf88b$7a19de40$6e4d9ac0$@charter.net> Message-ID: <9C9BE8212A194380A8C1AABABBCD16F5@BobPC> Big Brother must have been watching because the site is down.....maybe BMW not liking the "sharing" of the logos? ..... it was working fine when you posted the link. Or maybe it's a temporary problem and it'll be back up soon. Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 1975 TR6 with: Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff & CVJs -----Original Message----- From: Alex & Janet Thomson Sent: Friday, March 02, 2012 10:45 AM To: 'dave n' ; 'triumph list' Subject: Re: [TR] triumph logo Dave and the list - I found the source. http://www.burnistonbooks.com/logos/ Alex Thomson -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of dave n Sent: Thursday, March 01, 2012 11:27 PM To: triumph list Subject: [TR] triumph logo does anyone have a digital triumph logo they can send me? probably the earlier one, before the merger with BL I need it to photoshop it onto the triumph church building. and then I'll make it available to anyone who wants it ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From ptegler at verizon.net Sun Mar 4 19:13:44 2012 From: ptegler at verizon.net (ptegler) Date: Sun, 04 Mar 2012 21:13:44 -0500 Subject: [TR] triumph logo References: <1492e.2fa89ed7.3c80cb73@cs.com><29CC727B728348F3B43B424E08D394F0@ranteer.local><1330644578.36556.YahooMailNeo@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com><55018CB682F2458389A2E93045BE437D@ranteer.local> <001c01ccf88b$7a19de40$6e4d9ac0$@charter.net> <9C9BE8212A194380A8C1AABABBCD16F5@BobPC> Message-ID: <29A15F84DFC84710998468FD7353830F@dragonlairii> 9:13pm her on the east caost...the link is working fine Paul Tegler ptegler at verizon.net www.teglerizer.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Danielson" <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> To: "Alex & Janet Thomson" ; "'dave n'" ; "'triumph list'" Sent: Monday, March 05, 2012 8:37 PM Subject: Re: [TR] triumph logo > Big Brother must have been watching because the site is down.....maybe BMW > not liking the "sharing" of the logos? ..... it was working fine when you > posted the link. Or maybe it's a temporary problem and it'll be back up > soon. > > > Bob Danielson > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > 1975 TR6 with: > Throttle Body Injection > Toyota 5 Speed > Nissan Diff & CVJs > > -----Original Message----- > From: Alex & Janet Thomson > Sent: Friday, March 02, 2012 10:45 AM > To: 'dave n' ; 'triumph list' > Subject: Re: [TR] triumph logo > > Dave and the list - I found the source. > > http://www.burnistonbooks.com/logos/ From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Mar 5 20:14:27 2012 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2012 22:14:27 -0500 Subject: [TR] triumph logo In-Reply-To: <29A15F84DFC84710998468FD7353830F@dragonlairii> References: <1492e.2fa89ed7.3c80cb73@cs.com><29CC727B728348F3B43B424E08D394F0@ranteer.local><1330644578.36556.YahooMailNeo@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com><55018CB682F2458389A2E93045BE437D@ranteer.local> <001c01ccf88b$7a19de40$6e4d9ac0$@charter.net> <9C9BE8212A194380A8C1AABABBCD16F5@BobPC> <29A15F84DFC84710998468FD7353830F@dragonlairii> Message-ID: <9224021A082F4B0CBA49335C7207582F@BobPC> You sure it isn't just cached in your browser as it's still down here at 10:15 PM in Connecticut. Bob -----Original Message----- From: ptegler Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2012 9:13 PM To: Bob Danielson ; Alex & Janet Thomson ; 'dave n' ; 'triumph list' Subject: Re: [TR] triumph logo 9:13pm her on the east caost...the link is working fine Paul Tegler ptegler at verizon.net www.teglerizer.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Danielson" <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> To: "Alex & Janet Thomson" ; "'dave n'" ; "'triumph list'" Sent: Monday, March 05, 2012 8:37 PM Subject: Re: [TR] triumph logo > Big Brother must have been watching because the site is down.....maybe BMW > not liking the "sharing" of the logos? ..... it was working fine when you > posted the link. Or maybe it's a temporary problem and it'll be back up > soon. > > > Bob Danielson > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > 1975 TR6 with: > Throttle Body Injection > Toyota 5 Speed > Nissan Diff & CVJs > > -----Original Message----- > From: Alex & Janet Thomson > Sent: Friday, March 02, 2012 10:45 AM > To: 'dave n' ; 'triumph list' > Subject: Re: [TR] triumph logo > > Dave and the list - I found the source. > > http://www.burnistonbooks.com/logos/ From leejohn7 at gmail.com Mon Mar 5 20:34:40 2012 From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard) Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2012 19:34:40 -0800 Subject: [TR] Towing a TR In-Reply-To: <421bd.294e7591.3c55bf18@aol.com> References: <421bd.294e7591.3c55bf18@aol.com> Message-ID: Just saw this post. I last summer bought a 14 footer for my tr4. The size is about perfect. John Howard On Sat, Jan 28, 2012 at 1:14 PM, wrote: > I used to have a 6.5ft X 16ft landscaping trailer for my business and I > would say the trailer could have been 2ft shorter comfortably. I never used > the doors, just stepped over the TR3A's low door line. > > However, I also bought a used 6X13ft trailer that had been custom built for > a friend who also has a TR3A. The TR is 12ft 7ins, so I thought a 13 > footer was perfect. I was wrong. I could not stop the vehicle from > shifting > forwards or backwards and I concluded that it was because the tie-downs > were > too "vertical", allowing them to swing on an axis. I've learned the more > horizontal the tie-downs, the better. I now have a 20ft landscaping > trailer, > again for my business but I have to say I feel even safer transporting > the TR > on it because the chains (which is what I choose to use to tie it down) > are almost parallel with the trailer's bed. > > Hope that helps; > > Tim > > > > I have a 14x6 that works great for my TR3, jest be careful opening the > doors. > Bill > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Henningsen > Sent: Saturday, January 28, 2012 11:24 AM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] Towing a TR > > What is the best size open trailer for towing a TR? I am looking at a > featherlite 3110 which is 14 ft, but is that too short? Unfortunately, I > don't have the trailer to test. > > Thanks, > > Jim Henningsen > > Ocala, FL > > 62 TR4 > > 75 TR6 > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/kingscreektrees at aol.com > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/leejohn7 at gmail.com From ptegler at verizon.net Sun Mar 4 20:46:42 2012 From: ptegler at verizon.net (ptegler) Date: Sun, 04 Mar 2012 22:46:42 -0500 Subject: [TR] triumph logo References: <1492e.2fa89ed7.3c80cb73@cs.com><29CC727B728348F3B43B424E08D394F0@ranteer.local><1330644578.36556.YahooMailNeo@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com><55018CB682F2458389A2E93045BE437D@ranteer.local> <001c01ccf88b$7a19de40$6e4d9ac0$@charter.net> <9C9BE8212A194380A8C1AABABBCD16F5@BobPC> <29A15F84DFC84710998468FD7353830F@dragonlairii> <9224021A082F4B0CBA49335C7207582F@BobPC> Message-ID: <16487890B7DB4EF2A0B86090F1F5D3E4@dragonlairii> ...just went back and tested it.... hadn't gone to the Morgan logos....they came right up. might be the routers along your path to the source server. ...might be cached out of the D.C. hub (I'm in Maryland) Paul Tegler ptegler at verizon.net www.teglerizer.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Danielson" <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> To: "ptegler" ; "Alex & Janet Thomson" ; "'dave n'" ; "'triumph list'" Sent: Monday, March 05, 2012 10:14 PM Subject: Re: [TR] triumph logo > You sure it isn't just cached in your browser as it's still down here at > 10:15 PM in Connecticut. > > Bob > > -----Original Message----- > From: ptegler > Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2012 9:13 PM > To: Bob Danielson ; Alex & Janet Thomson ; 'dave n' ; 'triumph list' > Subject: Re: [TR] triumph logo > > 9:13pm her on the east caost...the link is working fine > Paul Tegler > ptegler at verizon.net > www.teglerizer.com > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Bob Danielson" <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> > To: "Alex & Janet Thomson" ; "'dave n'" > ; "'triumph list'" > Sent: Monday, March 05, 2012 8:37 PM > Subject: Re: [TR] triumph logo > > >> Big Brother must have been watching because the site is down.....maybe >> BMW not liking the "sharing" of the logos? ..... it was working fine >> when you posted the link. Or maybe it's a temporary problem and it'll be >> back up soon. >> >> >> Bob Danielson >> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org >> 1975 TR6 with: >> Throttle Body Injection >> Toyota 5 Speed >> Nissan Diff & CVJs >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Alex & Janet Thomson >> Sent: Friday, March 02, 2012 10:45 AM >> To: 'dave n' ; 'triumph list' >> Subject: Re: [TR] triumph logo >> >> Dave and the list - I found the source. >> >> http://www.burnistonbooks.com/logos/ From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Mar 5 22:15:26 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2012 21:15:26 -0800 Subject: [TR] triumph logo In-Reply-To: <29A15F84DFC84710998468FD7353830F@dragonlairii> References: <1492e.2fa89ed7.3c80cb73@cs.com><29CC727B728348F3B43B424E08D394F0@ranteer.local><1330644578.36556.YahooMailNeo@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com><55018CB682F2458389A2E93045BE437D@ranteer.local><001c01ccf88b$7a19de40$6e4d9ac0$@charter.net><9C9BE8212A194380A8C1AABABBCD16F5@BobPC> <29A15F84DFC84710998468FD7353830F@dragonlairii> Message-ID: <006601ccfb58$2482d6b0$0301a8c0@randall> 9:13 here on the west coast; link doesn't work. Something strange going on, too, since I can ping the server but Firefox reports it isn't there. Looks like the machine is on-line but the web process died. -- Randall From lee at automate-it.com Tue Mar 6 09:23:21 2012 From: lee at automate-it.com (Lee Daniels) Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2012 10:23:21 -0600 Subject: [TR] site for car logos - back up but different? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8cbe8d1cbf3605e7bd21e5e5ffad8693.squirrel@www.automate-it.com> So the site with the British car logos ( http://www.burnistonbooks.com/logos/ ) appears to be back up after being down for a bit. But something is different. The cool photo ( http://www.ranteer.com/misc/ ) that Dave "improved" has the nice Triumph globe logo ... but the gloe is no longer to be found at the logo site! Things that make you go 'hmmmm...' - Lee From aljlthomson at charter.net Tue Mar 6 10:05:04 2012 From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson) Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2012 12:05:04 -0500 Subject: [TR] site for car logos - back up but different? In-Reply-To: <8cbe8d1cbf3605e7bd21e5e5ffad8693.squirrel@www.automate-it.com> References: <8cbe8d1cbf3605e7bd21e5e5ffad8693.squirrel@www.automate-it.com> Message-ID: <001c01ccfbbb$484f3b70$d8edb250$@charter.net> I'm not sure that the "globe" ever was included in that site. I forwarded the site on, not knowing exactly what Dave had in mind. He may have found the image at some other location. Alex Thomson -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Lee Daniels Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2012 11:23 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] site for car logos - back up but different? So the site with the British car logos ( http://www.burnistonbooks.com/logos/ ) appears to be back up after being down for a bit. But something is different. The cool photo ( http://www.ranteer.com/misc/ ) that Dave "improved" has the nice Triumph globe logo ... but the gloe is no longer to be found at the logo site! Things that make you go 'hmmmm...' - Lee ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Tue Mar 6 11:46:16 2012 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Tue, 06 Mar 2012 12:46:16 -0600 (CST) Subject: [TR] site for car logos - back up but different? Message-ID: <12833063.2932054.1331059576455.JavaMail.root@vznit170130> That particular logo was not on the burniston site. it originally came from an eBay item - can't remember who/where/when - but I seem to recall it was on a serving tray or something like that. I sent it to Dave as I thought it was a perfect fit for his 'church'. C On 03/06/12, Lee Daniels wrote: So the site with the British car logos ( http://www.burnistonbooks.com/logos/ ) appears to be back up after being down for a bit. But something is different. The cool photo ( http://www.ranteer.com/misc/ ) that Dave "improved" has the nice Triumph globe logo ... but the gloe is no longer to be found at the logo site! Things that make you go 'hmmmm...' - Lee From ghaynestr4 at aol.com Tue Mar 6 12:58:37 2012 From: ghaynestr4 at aol.com (George Haynes) Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2012 14:58:37 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Unique Request, No Triumph Content In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CEC9EAA7250DC3-21AC-D766@webmail-m102.sysops.aol.com> Greetings, All, I realize this is a long shot, but is there someone near Staunton, Illinois who can look at a car for me? I'm told that Staunton is about 30 miles northeast of St. Louis. It's at a place called Country Classic Cars. Sadly, the car to be viewed is not a Triumph, but a 1964 Ford Falcon wagon (it's a long story...). Thanks! George Haynes From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Tue Mar 6 14:11:40 2012 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Tue, 06 Mar 2012 15:11:40 -0600 (CST) Subject: [TR] Unique Request, No Triumph Content Message-ID: <2798571.2972940.1331068300390.JavaMail.root@vznit170130> i am not any where near there but in an earlier life I had a 63 Falcon Wagon. Great car. bought it in the early70's while in college and finally 'put it down' after about 210,000 total miles. Took a lot of abuse including a oouple cross-country moves but just kept on.... Triumph content... it hauled a bunch of TR3 parts during my first restoration in the 90's C On 03/06/12, George Haynes wrote: Greetings, All, I realize this is a long shot, but is there someone near Staunton, Illinois who can look at a car for me? I'm told that Staunton is about 30 miles northeast of St. Louis. It's at a place called Country Classic Cars. Sadly, the car to be viewed is not a Triumph, but a 1964 Ford Falcon wagon (it's a long story...). Thanks! George Haynes ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net From yellowtr at adelphia.net Tue Mar 6 14:54:11 2012 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Tue, 06 Mar 2012 16:54:11 -0500 Subject: [TR] Unique Request, No Triumph Content In-Reply-To: <2798571.2972940.1331068300390.JavaMail.root@vznit170130> References: <2798571.2972940.1331068300390.JavaMail.root@vznit170130> Message-ID: <4F568783.7030201@adelphia.net> George, My business partner has an original 65 Falcon wagon (second owner) with a 289 and auto transmission. He uses it in the Summer to haul his pop up trailer which is also a 65. The car really has some pep for a wagon! And I am in Central NY, sorry! Bob On 03/06/2012 04:11 PM, Carl TR wrote: > i am not any where near there but in an earlier life I had a 63 Falcon Wagon. Great car. bought it in the early70's while in college and finally 'put it down' after about 210,000 total miles. Took a lot of abuse including a oouple cross-country moves but just kept on.... > > Triumph content... it hauled a bunch of TR3 parts during my first restoration in the 90's > C > > > > On 03/06/12, George Haynes wrote: > > Greetings, All, > I realize this is a long shot, but is there someone near Staunton, Illinois > who can look at a car for me? I'm told that Staunton is about 30 miles > northeast of St. Louis. It's at a place called Country Classic Cars. Sadly, > the car to be viewed is not a Triumph, but a 1964 Ford Falcon wagon (it's a > long story...). > Thanks! > George Haynes From rolds at plausa.com Tue Mar 6 14:59:05 2012 From: rolds at plausa.com (Ron Olds) Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2012 21:59:05 +0000 Subject: [TR] Unique Request, No Triumph Content In-Reply-To: <2798571.2972940.1331068300390.JavaMail.root@vznit170130> Message-ID: I used to dri d by there a lot and wod stop by once in a while. Quite a collection of vehicles, many in need of a new home and a lot of work. Ronald Olds Plasser American ----- Original Message ----- From: Carl TR [mailto:cfmtr3a at verizon.net] Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2012 04:11 PM To: ghaynestr4 at aol.com ; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Unique Request, No Triumph Content i am not any where near there but in an earlier life I had a 63 Falcon Wagon. Great car. bought it in the early70's while in college and finally 'put it down' after about 210,000 total miles. Took a lot of abuse including a oouple cross-country moves but just kept on.... Triumph content... it hauled a bunch of TR3 parts during my first restoration in the 90's C On 03/06/12, George Haynes wrote: Greetings, All, I realize this is a long shot, but is there someone near Staunton, Illinois who can look at a car for me? I'm told that Staunton is about 30 miles northeast of St. Louis. It's at a place called Country Classic Cars. Sadly, the car to be viewed is not a Triumph, but a 1964 Ford Falcon wagon (it's a long story...). Thanks! George Haynes ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rolds at plausa.com From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Tue Mar 6 16:27:22 2012 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2012 15:27:22 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] soldering thanks! Message-ID: <1331076442.37634.YahooMailNeo@web65507.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> thanks for all the responses to the soldering issue. My problem was that i was trying to use the wrong solder, also needed to tighten the screws on my soldering gun and i also was unaware that the tip fo the gun needed to be tinned also. All those changes made a huge difference, especially using the right solder! thanks again! gary n. From jeremiah at curryclan.net Tue Mar 6 18:38:22 2012 From: jeremiah at curryclan.net (Jeremiah Curry) Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2012 18:38:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] smoke? coming from valve cover vent In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2A2EE5FE508242EFA4E81E8537CA9326@mediacenter> I think this may not be smoke, but rather steam. I have only driven about 5 miles since I replaced the headgasket (with the ring of fire mod) I also spent some time idling/revving the engine in the garage. After installing the choke cable and adjusting it, I decided to go for a shakedown run and see if the problem would get better after a little drive. Car felt great, maybe even more powerful than before, but I was only about 1/2 of a mile from my house when I started seeing smoke, looked down at the temp gauge and it was pegged. Turned around and drove home and found the coolant over a gallon low. I am guessing somehow the coolant is getting burned off and coming out as smoke from the valve cover? The strange thing is that the oil seems fine (clear not smokey). I would think if the water was getting in the vale cover gasket, it would be in the oil too. Maybe since I am running pure water, not coolant it just doesn't discolor the oil? What should I do next? Still do a compression or leak-down test? Thanks in advance, Jeremiah p.s. I am probably opening a can of worms, but I left the whole thread below to add some context, but I have seen some people complain about this. Why is that? I have worked in IT for over 10 years and see no real downside. The size of the messages is minimal. And it means that you can keep the most recent message and delete the rest if you want one place to look for refrence. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jeremiah Curry Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2012 11:34 AM To: 'Geo Hahn' Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] smoke? coming from valve cover vent Thanks Geo, My card does smoke enough people might come running. I had the head completely rebuilt with new valves, springs, hardened seats etc. about 1000 miles ago, but the bottom end hasn't been touched in a long time. A piston seized in 69 and the PO replaced it and never put it all back together. I didn't touch the bottom end when I got it running, so that is likely the problem. I guess A leak-down or compression test would help tell me. Which one would be better? I should probably have the carbs adjusted, I am scared to death of them. I am only 34 and have never really owned cars that weren't fuel injected before. Thanks, Jeremiah _____ From: Geo Hahn [mailto:ahwahneetr at gmail.com] Sent: Friday, February 24, 2012 5:41 PM To: Jeremiah Curry Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] smoke? coming from valve cover vent You got the answers already but if it is any comfort... my TR3A smokes thru the oil filler cap when first parked. Whether it is a 'significant amount' is hard to say: it is noticeable but doesn't cause bystanders to run or grab a fire extinguisher. I did the valve guides about 5 years ago and the rings when Jimmie Carter was President so I expect the latter is to blame. On Thu, Feb 23, 2012 at 9:08 PM, Jeremiah Curry wrote: ...since I got it running, I am scared to adjust the carbs that paltech set so nicely for me). I don't think you want to be wary of adjusting the carbs. Not to question Jeff's abilities, but I don't see how anyone could get the carbs correctly set-up without having them on the engine. Do the basic stuff first (valve clearances, points gap, timing, carb sync, etc) then try your hand at mixture adjustment. Several methods out there, all work best with a final adjustment based on drivinig results. Geo ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jeremiah at curryclan.net From ghaynestr4 at aol.com Tue Mar 6 20:02:11 2012 From: ghaynestr4 at aol.com (George Haynes) Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2012 22:02:11 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Unique Request In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CECA25D32DD205-1728-E141@webmail-d061.sysops.aol.com> Would the guy from St. Louis please contact me again, as I have lost your contact info somehow. Thanks, George From jdemuth at ties2.net Wed Mar 7 08:07:50 2012 From: jdemuth at ties2.net (Joe DeMuth) Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2012 09:07:50 -0600 Subject: [TR] Trunk Lid Support Rod Message-ID: <51204F35-00B6-40B9-80BD-5B5928A504F6@ties2.net> Thanks to those who emailed with offers for the trunk prop rod. Turns out, I have one, although it looks like it may have been run over at some time in its life. My TR3 is currently in storage, so I can't look at it. The rod I found has a very gentle off-set about 2/3 the distance to the hook. Isn't the rod supposed to be straight from the bracket at the hinge end to the hook end. Any help? From jmwagner at greenheart.com Wed Mar 7 18:03:19 2012 From: jmwagner at greenheart.com (Justin Wagner) Date: Wed, 07 Mar 2012 17:03:19 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR6 for sale on craigslist... humor Message-ID: <4F580557.9050403@greenheart.com> "good shape overall" Laughing out loud! 1971 Triumph TR6 - $500 (Moncks Corner) ------------------------------------------------------------------------ http://charleston.craigslist.org/cto/2855779984.html From sumton at sbcglobal.net Wed Mar 7 19:10:08 2012 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (dave n) Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2012 20:10:08 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR6 for sale on craigslist... humor In-Reply-To: <4F580557.9050403@greenheart.com> References: <4F580557.9050403@greenheart.com> Message-ID: <11A6DF75140D4EC0954DE9D74558E227@ranteer.local> looks straight to me! wonder if I can drive it home . . . Subject: [TR] TR6 for sale on craigslist... humor > "good shape overall" Laughing out loud! > > > 1971 Triumph TR6 - $500 (Moncks Corner) > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > http://charleston.craigslist.org/cto/2855779984.html From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Wed Mar 7 20:57:30 2012 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2012 19:57:30 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] trunk prop rod Message-ID: <1331179050.55049.YahooMailNeo@web65510.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> I noted Joe is no longer in need of a trunk prop rod (tr-3). I'm in need of the same thing for my restoration so would be open for contacts. thanks gary n. From tfansher at comcast.net Thu Mar 8 09:43:14 2012 From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2012 16:43:14 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Was :TR6 for sale on craigslist... humor and history In-Reply-To: <4F580557.9050403@greenheart.com> Message-ID: <763551550.19200.1331224994130.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Interesting comment; My family moved to Moncks Corner, South Carolina in 1954. My dad was a dairy farm manager and we lived on a 1200 acre plantation and farm. What a wonderful place for a six year old to roam. When my older brother was in college (NC State) he bought an old bug eye sprite that he'd let me borrow on the weekends in the winter because it didn't have a heater nor top and he was dating his now wife of 40+ years. I was bitten by the LBC bug. I was long gone by 1971 so don't know any history of this car, that would have been a coincidence.... anyway I probably won't have my brother go look at the TR6 as a future addition to the stable. Tom 60 TR3A 61 TR3A bought in Columbia, SC in 1972. It has made a couple of trips to Moncks Corner 62 TR4 73 Stag ----- Original Message ----- From: "Justin Wagner" To: "Triumphs" Sent: Wednesday, March 7, 2012 8:03:19 PM Subject: [TR] TR6 for sale on craigslist... humor "good shape overall" Laughing out loud! 1971 Triumph TR6 - $500 (Moncks Corner) ------------------------------------------------------------------------ http://charleston.craigslist.org/cto/2855779984.html ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tfansher at comcast.net From davewillner at pa.net Thu Mar 8 12:29:13 2012 From: davewillner at pa.net (davewillner) Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2012 14:29:13 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 wiper switch Message-ID: <336E1E047609414D8F3F52FB3E4AF8D1@valued9cfc0b6f> One of my "punch list" items was to rebuild/refinish the wiper motor assy, seems to act great, runs quiet and looks pretty correct. However, when I hooked it up again this morning I found that the switch now has no effect on starting and stopping the motor, can I assume I now have a bad switch, or do I have a wiring issue somewhere? When I turn the key on the wipers start even though the switch pushed in. Thanks for the help Dave Willner Stroudsburg PA 59 TR3A 70 MGB 70 BSA 441 VS From lherault at bu.edu Thu Mar 8 12:36:31 2012 From: lherault at bu.edu (Ron L'Herault) Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2012 14:36:31 -0500 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 5, Issue 111 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <019d01ccfd62$c3646260$4a2d2720$@bu.edu> Now if that were a 73, I'd be after the center section of the rear bumper, assuming it were intact and unbent. Ron L -----Original Message----- Message: 1 Date: Wed, 07 Mar 2012 17:03:19 -0800 From: Justin Wagner To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] TR6 for sale on craigslist... humor Message-ID: <4F580557.9050403 at greenheart.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" "good shape overall" Laughing out loud! 1971 Triumph TR6 - $500 (Moncks Corner) ------------------------------------------------------------------------ http://charleston.craigslist.org/cto/2855779984.html From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Mar 8 13:19:36 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2012 12:19:36 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3 wiper switch In-Reply-To: <336E1E047609414D8F3F52FB3E4AF8D1@valued9cfc0b6f> References: <336E1E047609414D8F3F52FB3E4AF8D1@valued9cfc0b6f> Message-ID: <089501ccfd68$c8cbfe60$5a63fb20$@rr.com> Could be the switch, but IMO more likely a problem within the motor, specifically the wiring to the park switch. I would start by disconnecting the black/green wire at the motor, then turn the key on again. If the motor runs through a full cycle without stopping, then the problem is definitely inside the motor. Look for the wire (originally red but possibly faded with time or replaced) that runs from terminal 1 inside the housing to the park switch. Depending on the type of motor, it will either exit the case through a small hole and run to a terminal on top of the gear box; or run inside to a switch inside the dome. Either the wire is shorted to ground; or the switch is not opening when the motor reached the "parked" position. But if the motor (eventually) stops with the black/green disconnected, the problem is the switch or the wiring to it. -- Randall From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Thu Mar 8 17:24:25 2012 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2012 18:24:25 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR6 for sale on craigslist... humor In-Reply-To: <4F580557.9050403@greenheart.com> References: <4F580557.9050403@greenheart.com> Message-ID: No pictures of the rear. Maybe that is the bad part! Rich White Central, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF###L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! > Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2012 17:03:19 -0800 > From: jmwagner at greenheart.com > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] TR6 for sale on craigslist... humor > > "good shape overall" Laughing out loud! > > > 1971 Triumph TR6 - $500 (Moncks Corner) > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > http://charleston.craigslist.org/cto/2855779984.html > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com From spook01 at comcast.net Thu Mar 8 18:21:45 2012 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2012 19:21:45 -0600 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?TR6_for_sale_on_craigslist=2E=2E=2E___humor?= Message-ID: It's made of cardboard from the doors back. He's afraid you can read his address label on the trunk. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Rich White" To: "TR owners List" Subject: [TR] TR6 for sale on craigslist... humor Date: Thu, Mar 8, 2012 18:24 No pictures of the rear. Maybe that is the bad part! Rich White Central, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF###L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! > Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2012 17:03:19 -0800 > From: jmwagner at greenheart.com > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] TR6 for sale on craigslist... humor > > "good shape overall" Laughing out loud! > > > 1971 Triumph TR6 - $500 (Moncks Corner) > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > http://charleston.craigslist.org/cto/2855779984.html > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From mark at bradakis.com Fri Mar 9 00:36:12 2012 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2012 00:36:12 -0700 (MST) Subject: [TR] Ashes to ashes, dust to dust Message-ID: <20120309073612.045762E022@bradakis.com> Team.Net has been around a while. People join, people leave, an ebb and flow of enthusiasts over the years. Some leave a mark that will not be soon forgotten. Steve Laifman passed away, a stalwart on the Tigers list. We had Fred Thomas on Triumphs, Frank on Spridgets. Uncle Jack was a stalwart on the vintage racing scene with his immaculately prepared Triumphs. As I've mentioned before one of my least favorite tasks is removing someone from the lists as they depart. I want to add them back. I want to keep them alive in our hearts, in our minds, in our web browsers. We, as a community of kindred spirits need to show our respect, admiration and appreciation. Team.Net is currently in a bit of disarray as I work on updating, upgrading and unfortunetly upending various services. In the midst of this cloud of digital dust a new project comes to mind - a memorial page. A place to gather stories, pictures, quips and quotes about those who have touched us all. Stay tuned, there will be requests for stuff to fill these soon to be created web pages. mjb. From ptegler at verizon.net Thu Mar 8 04:35:46 2012 From: ptegler at verizon.net (ptegler) Date: Thu, 08 Mar 2012 06:35:46 -0500 Subject: [TR] Ashes to ashes, dust to dust References: <20120309073612.045762E022@bradakis.com> Message-ID: An excellent idea for 'cornerstones' remembrance Mark. yes... fond memories of old friends. Up front I met Fred up at a DE show by the river side years ago. We'd travel to shows together along the Mid Atlantic region. Me in a Midget (then later in an MG or Spit) and he in his TR3 I think a record was set when Frank C and three others (including myself) complexly de-constructed a Midget in front of my homestead in under an hour and dispersed the parts to four separate vehicles heading all over the place. seeing Franks kids bring his Bugeye to Carlisle even after his demise made the passing that much harder, but the memories sweeter. Paul Tegler ptegler at verizon.net www.teglerizer.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark J Bradakis" To: Sent: Friday, March 09, 2012 2:36 AM Subject: [TR] Ashes to ashes, dust to dust > Team.Net has been around a while. People join, people leave, > an ebb and flow of enthusiasts over the years. Some leave a > mark that will not be soon forgotten. > > Steve Laifman passed away, a stalwart on the Tigers list. We > had Fred Thomas on Triumphs, Frank on Spridgets. Uncle Jack > was a stalwart on the vintage racing scene with his immaculately > prepared Triumphs. As I've mentioned before one of my least > favorite tasks is removing someone from the lists as they depart. > > I want to add them back. I want to keep them alive in our hearts, > in our minds, in our web browsers. We, as a community of kindred > spirits need to show our respect, admiration and appreciation. > > Team.Net is currently in a bit of disarray as I work on updating, > upgrading and unfortunetly upending various services. In the midst of > this cloud of digital dust a new project comes to mind - a memorial > page. A place to gather stories, pictures, quips and quotes about > those who have touched us all. > > Stay tuned, there will be requests for stuff to fill these soon to be > created web pages. > > > mjb. > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Fri Mar 9 20:07:06 2012 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2012 21:07:06 -0600 Subject: [TR] Ashes to ashes, dust to dust In-Reply-To: References: <20120309073612.045762E022@bradakis.com>, Message-ID: I only met Fred once, but exchanged many emails with him.I have a folder with all the email that was send about his death and TR3. :( Rich White Central, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF###L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! > From: ptegler at verizon.net > To: mark at bradakis.com; triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Thu, 8 Mar 2012 06:35:46 -0500 > Subject: Re: [TR] Ashes to ashes, dust to dust > > An excellent idea for 'cornerstones' remembrance Mark. > yes... fond memories of old friends. > > Up front I met Fred up at a DE show by the river side years ago. We'd travel > to shows together along the Mid Atlantic region. > Me in a Midget (then later in an MG or Spit) and he in his TR3 > > I think a record was set when Frank C and three others (including myself) > complexly de-constructed a Midget in front of my homestead in under an hour > and dispersed the parts to four separate vehicles heading all over the > place. seeing Franks kids bring his Bugeye to Carlisle even after his demise > made the passing that much harder, but the memories sweeter. > > Paul Tegler > ptegler at verizon.net > www.teglerizer.com > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Mark J Bradakis" > To: > Sent: Friday, March 09, 2012 2:36 AM > Subject: [TR] Ashes to ashes, dust to dust > > > > Team.Net has been around a while. People join, people leave, > > an ebb and flow of enthusiasts over the years. Some leave a > > mark that will not be soon forgotten. > > > > Steve Laifman passed away, a stalwart on the Tigers list. We > > had Fred Thomas on Triumphs, Frank on Spridgets. Uncle Jack > > was a stalwart on the vintage racing scene with his immaculately > > prepared Triumphs. As I've mentioned before one of my least > > favorite tasks is removing someone from the lists as they depart. > > > > I want to add them back. I want to keep them alive in our hearts, > > in our minds, in our web browsers. We, as a community of kindred > > spirits need to show our respect, admiration and appreciation. > > > > Team.Net is currently in a bit of disarray as I work on updating, > > upgrading and unfortunetly upending various services. In the midst of > > this cloud of digital dust a new project comes to mind - a memorial > > page. A place to gather stories, pictures, quips and quotes about > > those who have touched us all. > > > > Stay tuned, there will be requests for stuff to fill these soon to be > > created web pages. > > > > > > mjb. > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com From levilevi at comcast.net Fri Mar 9 21:47:18 2012 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2012 21:47:18 -0700 Subject: [TR] Ashes to ashes, dust to dust In-Reply-To: <20120309073612.045762E022@bradakis.com> References: <20120309073612.045762E022@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <98C0E059-2D74-4C91-9FDD-73C7CCCFE941@comcast.net> I've got the remaining "FT" stickers that Marty Sukey had made up if anyone is interested. There are cling stickers and adhesive stickers. Marty sent them to me to sell at VTR but our logistics didn't quite work and that didn't get done. I'll have to look back and see what Marty's pricing was but let me know if you're interested and we can figure it out. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Mar 9, 2012, at 12:36 AM, Mark J Bradakis wrote: > We > had Fred Thomas on Triumphs, From wbeech at flash.net Fri Mar 9 22:04:20 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2012 23:04:20 -0600 Subject: [TR] Ashes to ashes, dust to dust In-Reply-To: <98C0E059-2D74-4C91-9FDD-73C7CCCFE941@comcast.net> References: <20120309073612.045762E022@bradakis.com> <98C0E059-2D74-4C91-9FDD-73C7CCCFE941@comcast.net> Message-ID: <263A0BF097C648FD9725147FAC45DD89@bboffice> $2.00 for the first one, $1.00 for each additional sticker is what he quoted me. I have had one on Tarbaby's windscreen ever since they came out, they are simple and appropriate. NFI, Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" "Hello, my name is Bill and I own an old British car. Now...What are the next 11 steps?" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bud Rolofson Sent: Friday, March 09, 2012 10:47 PM To: Mark J Bradakis Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Ashes to ashes, dust to dust I've got the remaining "FT" stickers that Marty Sukey had made up if anyone is interested. There are cling stickers and adhesive stickers. Marty sent them to me to sell at VTR but our logistics didn't quite work and that didn't get done. I'll have to look back and see what Marty's pricing was but let me know if you're interested and we can figure it out. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Mar 9, 2012, at 12:36 AM, Mark J Bradakis wrote: > We > had Fred Thomas on Triumphs, ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From northwestnick at gmail.com Sat Mar 10 10:18:35 2012 From: northwestnick at gmail.com (Nick Wolf) Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2012 09:18:35 -0800 Subject: [TR] Nokof spinners and Silverstone wheels on eBay Message-ID: Hi listers In case anyone is interested, I'm selling six spare Nokof brand knockoffs on eBay (the type that fit the early Silverstones with threaded centers). There is a set of four (item # 290679320103) and two singles, a righty and a lefty (items # 290679327139 and 290679332347). Reserve is $50 ea. Coincidentally, someone else is selling a set of magnesium Silverstones at the same time (item # 180834812925, No Financial Interest). There's also a fellow in Vancouver BC who's begun producing reproduction Silverstones (item #280835181388, NFI again). They look pretty good... Anyone try them yet? -Nick Wolf '62 TR4 Seattle From levilevi at comcast.net Sat Mar 10 10:53:39 2012 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2012 10:53:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] Ashes to ashes, dust to dust In-Reply-To: <263A0BF097C648FD9725147FAC45DD89@bboffice> References: <20120309073612.045762E022@bradakis.com> <98C0E059-2D74-4C91-9FDD-73C7CCCFE941@comcast.net> <263A0BF097C648FD9725147FAC45DD89@bboffice> Message-ID: <843D3751-10D9-4501-862C-9392D895ABFE@comcast.net> Thanks Bill, that's correct. Marty and Joe Alexander bore the cost of making these up and Marty has advised me to provide a bonus of 1 of each (a cling and an adhesive sticker) if you buy the first two (your choice of cling or adhesive). We all would rather have the stickers honoring Fred out there than sitting in my shop so get them while they last. Send me your shipping address and I'll mail them to you. Payment can be made to Marty Sukey at his Paypal account : trmarty at hotmail.com Thanks Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Mar 9, 2012, at 10:04 PM, wrote: > $2.00 for the first one, $1.00 for each additional sticker is what > he quoted > me. > > I have had one on Tarbaby's windscreen ever since they came out, > they are > simple and appropriate. > > NFI, > Bill > > Bill Beecher > '58 TR3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" > www.triumphowners.com/1566 > '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" > "Hello, my name is Bill and I own an old British car. Now...What > are the > next 11 steps?" > > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bud Rolofson > Sent: Friday, March 09, 2012 10:47 PM > To: Mark J Bradakis > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] Ashes to ashes, dust to dust > > I've got the remaining "FT" stickers that Marty Sukey had made up if > anyone > is interested. There are cling stickers and adhesive stickers. > Marty sent > them to me to sell at VTR but our logistics didn't quite work and that > didn't get done. I'll have to look back and see what Marty's > pricing was > but let me know if you're interested and we can figure it out. > > > Bud Rolofson > > 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) > 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) > 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly > Davidson 1977 > Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net > > > > > On Mar 9, 2012, at 12:36 AM, Mark J Bradakis wrote: > >> We >> had Fred Thomas on Triumphs, > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From levilevi at comcast.net Sat Mar 10 11:31:24 2012 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2012 11:31:24 -0700 Subject: [TR] Ashes to ashes, dust to dust In-Reply-To: <263A0BF097C648FD9725147FAC45DD89@bboffice> References: <20120309073612.045762E022@bradakis.com> <98C0E059-2D74-4C91-9FDD-73C7CCCFE941@comcast.net> <263A0BF097C648FD9725147FAC45DD89@bboffice> Message-ID: <9C3DFB75-EB31-4B41-B94B-2FF5E48F5E8F@comcast.net> Thanks Bill, that's correct. Marty and Joe Alexander bore the cost of making these up and Marty has advised me to provide a bonus of 1 of each (a cling and an adhesive sticker) if you buy the first two (your choice of cling or adhesive). We all would rather have the stickers honoring Fred out there than sitting in my shop so get them while they last. Send me your shipping address and I'll mail them to you. Payment can be made to Marty Sukey at his Paypal account : trmarty at hotmail.com Thanks Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Mar 9, 2012, at 10:04 PM, wrote: > $2.00 for the first one, $1.00 for each additional sticker is what > he quoted > me. > > I have had one on Tarbaby's windscreen ever since they came out, > they are > simple and appropriate. > > NFI, > Bill > > Bill Beecher > '58 TR3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" > www.triumphowners.com/1566 > '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" > "Hello, my name is Bill and I own an old British car. Now...What > are the > next 11 steps?" > > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bud Rolofson > Sent: Friday, March 09, 2012 10:47 PM > To: Mark J Bradakis > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] Ashes to ashes, dust to dust > > I've got the remaining "FT" stickers that Marty Sukey had made up if > anyone > is interested. There are cling stickers and adhesive stickers. > Marty sent > them to me to sell at VTR but our logistics didn't quite work and that > didn't get done. I'll have to look back and see what Marty's > pricing was > but let me know if you're interested and we can figure it out. > > > Bud Rolofson > > 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) > 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) > 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly > Davidson 1977 > Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net > > > > > On Mar 9, 2012, at 12:36 AM, Mark J Bradakis wrote: > >> We >> had Fred Thomas on Triumphs, > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From anabil007 at comcast.net Sat Mar 10 11:49:54 2012 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh) Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2012 10:49:54 -0800 Subject: [TR] Mitty Attendees In-Reply-To: <9C3DFB75-EB31-4B41-B94B-2FF5E48F5E8F@comcast.net> References: <20120309073612.045762E022@bradakis.com> <98C0E059-2D74-4C91-9FDD-73C7CCCFE941@comcast.net> <263A0BF097C648FD9725147FAC45DD89@bboffice> <9C3DFB75-EB31-4B41-B94B-2FF5E48F5E8F@comcast.net> Message-ID: Hi Folks, This is a shameless plea for all you Mitty folks. My Daughter, Andrea will turn the big 50 April 18th. So I have purchased VIP tickets for her and her Husband for the Mitty, She drives a 1990 Red Miata (with teeth in the grill) which she has owned since 1992. If some of you could find the time to look her up and help her enjoy the experience it would be really great. John Nikas (Drive Away Cancer guy) will be looking for her too. She may not be the fastest Miata driver around but she will be one of the most Fearless ... It is impossible for me to be there, so I am hoping some of you can be my substitute. Thanks in Advance ... "Life is too short to drive Boring Cars" Bill Pugh Wallace, CA Casper 1957 TR3 TS16665L anabil007 at comcast.net From wbeech at flash.net Sat Mar 10 12:22:27 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2012 13:22:27 -0600 Subject: [TR] Fuel Tank connection Message-ID: This may be a bit off topic, but the Austin-Healy is currently sharing the garage with the TR3. Is there a source for British Standard compression fittings? I need to connect the fuel line to the tank on this Healy but it is not an SAE thread, 7/16 is too big and 3/8 is too small. Thanks, Bill From ghaynestr4 at aol.com Sat Mar 10 19:15:17 2012 From: ghaynestr4 at aol.com (George Haynes) Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2012 21:15:17 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Ashes to Ashes In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CECD43EFCA3677-CE4-8167@webmail-m058.sysops.aol.com> How about our old friend Scott Fisher, who I think is still alive, and the witty Ray Gibbons, who is not. Both great contributors in their day. George From pethier at comcast.net Sat Mar 10 19:46:31 2012 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2012 02:46:31 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Ashes to Ashes In-Reply-To: <8CECD43EFCA3677-CE4-8167@webmail-m058.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <2005613337.72175.1331433991586.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> ----- Original Message ----- > From: "George Haynes" > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2012 8:15:17 PM > Subject: Re: [TR] Ashes to Ashes > How about our old friend Scott Fisher, who I think is still alive, In the Portland Oregon area. I see him on Flickr.com and saw him face-to-face in Washington and Oregon in 2009. We were in the TR4 and he was in Miata and ALFA. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://www.mnautox.com From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Sat Mar 10 20:56:57 2012 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2012 19:56:57 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Back washing the heater Message-ID: <1331438217.62643.YahooMailNeo@web39406.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hi List! I know this was talked about on the list before, but I don't recall a specific method. I would like to backwash my TR4A heater. It works fine but I never 'back washed' it when it was inside the car from the restoration completed back in 1998. I do recall that many people said not to use a lot of pressure when trying to clean it. I was thinking of attaching a cut garden hose (Female end) to the lower outlet on the bulkhead by the hose clamp used on the heater hose. Then hose clamping the hoes to the top bulkhead outlet & let the 15' end hang down on the ground & under the Garage Queen (GQ) out the back to exit out the garage. Attach the male end of the garden hose, to the female end of the top bulkhead attached hose, & then turn on the water flow "VERY LOW" (just cracking the water faucet) until I see water starts to trickle down the driveway. My questions are: 1- Does this method of flushing the heater mounted inside the GQ sound correct? 2- Should I increase the water flow (thus increasing the water pressure) after the present water has been flowing onto the driveway, for a period of 1 minute? (Thus giving me a chance to check if any water is leaking in the interior of the cock pit.) 3- IF I do increase the water pressure, then how much? (1/4 turn?) 4- Does anyone, suggest a better way of cleaning the heater, while it's inside the GQ? -Cosmo Kramer From anabil007 at comcast.net Sat Mar 10 23:36:16 2012 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh) Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2012 22:36:16 -0800 Subject: [TR] Back washing the heater In-Reply-To: <1331438217.62643.YahooMailNeo@web39406.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <1331438217.62643.YahooMailNeo@web39406.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <808784FB-CD0B-4131-A734-F8D2EB944F33@comcast.net> You can Back Flush the entire system Cosmo ... Buy a Prestone Backflush Kit. Several plastic fittings, an overflow pipe for the radiator, use a small piece of hose and put the garden hose tee fitting onto the heater pipe, maybe dump it some radiator cleaner, make sure the heater valve is open, and turn on the hose (there is a volume valve in the kit). Cleans everything and shoots it out the radiator filler opening. Messy but effective. On Mar 10, 2012, at 7:56 PM, Cosmo Kramer wrote: > Hi List! > I know this was talked about on the list before, but I don't recall a > specific method. > > I would like to backwash my TR4A heater. It works fine but > I never 'back washed' it when it was inside the car from the restoration > completed back in 1998. I do recall that many people said not to use a lot of > pressure when trying to clean it. > "Life is too short to drive Boring Cars" Bill Pugh Wallace, CA Casper 1957 TR3 TS16665L anabil007 at comcast.net From greg at gelhar.com Sun Mar 11 07:13:20 2012 From: greg at gelhar.com (greg at gelhar.com) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2012 09:13:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fuel Tank connection In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <9cd6c7692a3ae1ee81460bef04cde431.squirrel@email.accountsupport.com> I cant say just what you need but here is a useful set of charts showing various fluid connections including U.S., British, and other foriegn designs. http://www.tuboquip.com/pdf/identify-ports.pdf Greg Gelhar Osseo, MN > This may be a bit off topic, but the Austin-Healy is currently sharing the > garage with the TR3. > > Is there a source for British Standard compression fittings? I need to > connect the fuel line to the tank on this Healy but it is not an SAE > thread, > 7/16 is too big and 3/8 is too small. > > Thanks, > Bill From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Sun Mar 11 07:15:44 2012 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2012 06:15:44 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Back washing the heater In-Reply-To: <808784FB-CD0B-4131-A734-F8D2EB944F33@comcast.net> References: <1331438217.62643.YahooMailNeo@web39406.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <808784FB-CD0B-4131-A734-F8D2EB944F33@comcast.net> Message-ID: <1331471744.13453.YahooMailNeo@web39404.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hi Bill! Thanks for the reply, but that isn't what I want to do. I do still have cans of 'Presto Radiator Flush' that I bought back in '72, that I could use. There are several reasons that I don't wish to do your suggestion: 1- I have the Rad. out. 2- I just got it back from having it record & don't want any containment's entering into the new core. 3- I really don't want any flushing chemicals in the new core. 4- I have just purchased new heater hoses & want to flush out the heater (just to check if there is/was an debris inside), before installing the new heater hoses on. 5- I also have just installed my the engine & tranny after doing the: Rear Seal, Main & Connecting Rod Bearings, & I don't have the rest of the system set-up to work the engine. 6- I'm trying to do away with the 'messy' part by using the 15'+ hose going out the garage & into a drain that I've installed outside. So now you can understand the reason I wrote the post the way I did. So I'm really asking for my questions to be answered. BUT! This brings me to asking you about the "volume valve in the kit", that you mentioned. 1- When one has this 'volume valve' turned all the way down to start with, is the house faucet to regulate the hose water on full? 2- If not then how much is it turned on to? -Cosmo Kramer >________________________________ > From: William Pugh >Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2012 1:36 AM >Subject: Re: [TR] Back washing the heater > >You can Back Flush the entire system Cosmo ... Buy a Prestone Backflush Kit. Several plastic fittings, an overflow pipe for the radiator, use a small piece of hose and put the garden hose tee fitting onto the heater pipe, maybe dump it some radiator cleaner, make sure the heater valve is open, and turn on the hose (there is a volume valve in the kit). Cleans everything and shoots it out the radiator filler opening. > >Messy but effective. >... From tjwakeman at gmail.com Sun Mar 11 07:50:01 2012 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2012 06:50:01 -0700 Subject: [TR] Ashes to Ashes In-Reply-To: <8CECD43EFCA3677-CE4-8167@webmail-m058.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CECD43EFCA3677-CE4-8167@webmail-m058.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4F5CAD89.2080404@gmail.com> On 3/10/12 7:15 PM, George Haynes wrote: > How about our old friend Scott Fisher, who I think is still alive, and the > witty Ray Gibbons, who is not. Both great contributors in their day. > George > Scott was an MG guy back in the days before the Triumph list. He was on the British car list. He had an MG racer garage queen that he never could get to run right. Before he left the Bay area and headed North he sold the MG, got an Alfa and I don't think he ever looked back. I think the last time I saw Scott was soon before he and his family moved North. We were driving through the Santa Cruz mountains abut 75 miles South of San Francisco. He was in his Alfa and I in my TR3. He was leading the way and and decided to see if he could loose me on a narrow curvy mountain road. I stayed right on his tail the whole way down the hill, watching sparks fly as his Alfa bottomed out on some of the bumps. To this day I am very grateful that there were no pedestrians or cyclists or cars coming the other way. In many places it would be generous to call it a two lane road. The steep mountains and redwood forest obscured every left hand curve. Though with the two engines roaring in the 5 to 6 thousand RPM range with almost no straight sections requiring a shift I'm sure we could have been heard a long way off. But still it was a very dumb and very dangerous thing to have done. But one I'm sure I'll remember for life as I just don't do silly things in the TR unless I know the road is empty or can see past the next curve. I just couldn't resist Scott's gauntlet and his thought that his Alfa was faster than my 3. Silly boy. That's why I had Greg Solow build my engine and built the suspension for auto crossing. Scott was a part time restaurant critic for one of the Bay area news papers and had a descriptive flowing style in his writing that spurred me on to write flowing descriptions too. After he left, I got out of the the habit of writing long descriptive postings. He just always inspired me to a little bit more. I didn't know (or remember) that we lost Ray Gibbons. I enjoyed his postings to the list way back when. I am reminded of a statement Marlen Brando made during the movie "The Longest Day" He was playing a Spitfire pilot who had been fighting since the beginning of the battle of Briton. It was something like "What I don't like is how we few keep getting fewer". I think sometime during the summer half of this year it will have been 25 years since I received an email saying that a British car e-mail group was being formed and would I like to be part of it. I don't remember the date but I remember the TR was in the parking lot and that day I took the long way home through the curviest roads I knew over and along the Santa Cruz mountains. Here is where my memory gets real tricky. I think it was Dale, a guy that worked at Apollo Computer who had an MGB housed in a single car garage with a dirt floor who originally hosted the British car mail list. All of us who had been invited to join the new list had been posting to rec.autos about British cars. I bought my TR3A in 1986 so was asking lots of questions about it on rec.auto. If I remember, Dale eventually sold the MG because either his wife or he and his wife could no longer get easily in and out of the B. To absent friends Teriann From davewillner at pa.net Sun Mar 11 10:38:36 2012 From: davewillner at pa.net (davewillner) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2012 12:38:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] clutch bleeding followup Message-ID: <6A6FD03AA3AC4C1BBC47E1B41ACC95C7@valued9cfc0b6f> I've posted this in past, apologies for bombing the list again. I can't for the life me get the air (lots of air) out of my new clutch master and slave, along with a new pipe and hose. I tried the conventional way (wife) a bunch of times, speed bleeder, stick on pedal, slow trickle, etc. nothing is working and I'm wondering if one of the new aftermarket cylinders is bad. There are no leaks and the canister remains full of silicone fluid...I'm wondering if anyone has had any issues with these"authentic reproductions" as they're called, made by Gold Classic I think, with seals or air leaks or just general failure? Before I purchase a compressed air bleeding system, thought I check. Thanks Dave Willner Stroudsburg PA 59 TR3A 70 MGB 70 BSA 441 VS From thenicholls at verizon.net Sun Mar 11 10:42:37 2012 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2012 11:42:37 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] clutch bleeding followup Message-ID: <29929868.545396.1331484157300.JavaMail.root@vms170029> I have heard from several sources that Gold Classic is junk. Craig 1972 Triumph TR6 On 03/11/12, davewillner wrote: I've posted this in past, apologies for bombing the list again. I can't for the life me get the air (lots of air) out of my new clutch master and slave, along with a new pipe and hose. I tried the conventional way (wife) a bunch of times, speed bleeder, stick on pedal, slow trickle, etc. nothing is working and I'm wondering if one of the new aftermarket cylinders is bad. There are no leaks and the canister remains full of silicone fluid...I'm wondering if anyone has had any issues with these"authentic reproductions" as they're called, made by Gold Classic I think, with seals or air leaks or just general failure? Before I purchase a compressed air bleeding system, thought I check. Thanks Dave Willner Stroudsburg PA 59 TR3A 70 MGB 70 BSA 441 VS ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Mar 11 11:24:21 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2012 10:24:21 -0700 Subject: [TR] Fuel Tank connection In-Reply-To: <9cd6c7692a3ae1ee81460bef04cde431.squirrel@email.accountsupport.com> References: <9cd6c7692a3ae1ee81460bef04cde431.squirrel@email.accountsupport.com> Message-ID: <004301ccffab$cc636be0$0301a8c0@randall> > I cant say just what you need but here is a useful set of > charts showing > various fluid connections including U.S., British, and other foriegn > designs. Thanks for the link, Greg. Oddly enough, though (perhaps because it is for medium to high pressure hydraulic fittings), it doesn't include the fittings used on the TR3 fuel system. The TR3 tank fitting is a "reverse compression" fitting. I forget the threads offhand, but they are (deliberately) not standard bolt or pipe threads. But I have no idea what Bill's Healey would have. -- Randall From JGILLIS at tcd.ie Sun Mar 11 11:36:48 2012 From: JGILLIS at tcd.ie (John Gillis) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2012 17:36:48 +0000 Subject: [TR] Heavy steering TR2 Message-ID: I am wondering about two related issues; The steering on the TR2 seems very heavy at slow maneuvering speed, I am not sure how heavy it should be, having never driven any other side screen. The second matter relates to the front wheels which are not sitting at the same angle top to bottom, that is the top of one seems to lean out more than the other, I did not think there was any adjustment here. I rebuilt both sides with original parts and all new poly bushes. I also noticed that in order to set roughly the toe-in I set the steering box side of the arm to the length in the WS Manual, but in order to have the other wheel pointing straight (by eye) the length of the other arm was much longer, not very scientific I know but my starting point, all help appreciated. kuh Regards John John Gillis Senior Conservator From greg at gelhar.com Sun Mar 11 11:38:08 2012 From: greg at gelhar.com (greg at gelhar.com) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2012 13:38:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fuel Tank connection In-Reply-To: <004301ccffab$cc636be0$0301a8c0@randall> References: <9cd6c7692a3ae1ee81460bef04cde431.squirrel@email.accountsupport.com> <004301ccffab$cc636be0$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <323d5da26f4fc57f31e18833b4c5f55a.squirrel@email.accountsupport.com> I would like to know more about the tubing nuts and ferrules used on Triumphs. I have a home machine shop and could make repairs if I only knew the dimensions. Anyone have a better link to this info? Greg G > > Thanks for the link, Greg. > > Oddly enough, though (perhaps because it is for medium to high pressure > hydraulic fittings), it doesn't include the fittings used on the TR3 fuel > system. The TR3 tank fitting is a "reverse compression" fitting. I > forget > the threads offhand, but they are (deliberately) not standard bolt or pipe > threads. > > But I have no idea what Bill's Healey would have. > > -- Randall From jdemuth at ties2.net Sun Mar 11 11:43:50 2012 From: jdemuth at ties2.net (Joe DeMuth) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2012 12:43:50 -0500 Subject: [TR] Installing TR3 Interior Message-ID: I am installing a new interior on aTR3. The panels are pretty straight forward, but no so with the rear wheel arches. The kit I bought has some synthetic horse-hair like padding that appears to be cut in a shape that suggests its use over the top and sides of the arches. Any suggestions or hints as to how this goes together? In particular, should I be using contact cement or spray adhesive to affix the pad to the arch, and what about the vinyl to the padding? Also, how thick should the padding be, (the stuff I have is about an inch thick) and how compressed by the top covering? From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Mar 11 11:44:23 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2012 10:44:23 -0700 Subject: [TR] Back washing the heater In-Reply-To: <1331438217.62643.YahooMailNeo@web39406.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <1331438217.62643.YahooMailNeo@web39406.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <004d01ccffae$99142b50$0301a8c0@randall> > 1- Does this method of flushing > the heater mounted inside the GQ sound correct? Should work fine. > 2- Should I increase the > water flow (thus increasing the water pressure) I would. A stronger flow will pick up more crud and flush it out. > IF I do increase the water pressure, then how much? (1/4 turn?) Unfortunately, that is the tricky part. Both the pressure behind the faucet and how far the faucet opens for 1/4 turn can vary quite a bit. All I can suggest is to monitor the flow from the outlet hose, and open the faucet in small increments only until the flow is about pencil-sized or a bit larger. > 4- Does > anyone, suggest a better way of cleaning the heater, while > it's inside the GQ? I might be tempted to just leave it alone for now, put the car back together, and then flush it as part of the semi-annual cooling system maintenance. After all, you say it was working fine; and any sediment inside will likely get flushed through into the lower radiator tank, where it will come out when you change coolant. That also opens up the option of letting your local radiator shop do the flush. They usually have a tool that uses a mixture of water and low-pressure compressed air, that is more effective at flushing than just water. -- Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Mar 11 11:57:08 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2012 10:57:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] Heavy steering TR2 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <005101ccffb0$60ec7d20$0301a8c0@randall> > The steering on the TR2 seems very > heavy at slow maneuvering speed, It is fairly heavy compared to modern cars, since they all have power-assist (even Miata/MX5 has power). But many TR2/3 steer much heavier than they should (IMO) due to a variety of reasons. > that is the top > of one seems to lean out more than the other, I did not think > there was any > adjustment here. That suggests you have some undiscovered accident (or rust) damage. -- Randall From wbeech at flash.net Sun Mar 11 12:55:54 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2012 13:55:54 -0500 Subject: [TR] Installing TR3 Interior In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6C80095E-AB7A-4962-AED6-F85FA82093D8@flash.net> Mark Macy has good tutorial on his web site, I went by it when I did my TR3 a few years back, still looks great. http://www.macysgarage.com/myweb6/wheel_arch_covers.htm Sent from mobile Bill On Mar 11, 2012, at 12:43 PM, Joe DeMuth wrote: > I am installing a new interior on aTR3. The panels are pretty straight forward, but no so with the rear wheel arches. The kit I bought has some synthetic horse-hair like padding that appears to be cut in a shape that suggests its use over the top and sides of the arches. Any suggestions or hints as to how this goes together? In particular, should I be using contact cement or spray adhesive to affix the pad to the arch, and what about the vinyl to the padding? Also, how thick should the padding be, (the stuff I have is about an inch thick) and how compressed by the top covering? > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Mar 11 13:03:28 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2012 15:03:28 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] clutch bleeding followup Message-ID: In a message dated 3/11/2012 11:38:31 AM Central Daylight Time, davewillner at pa.net writes: > I've posted this in past, apologies for bombing the list again. I can't > for > the life me get the air (lots of air) out of my new clutch master and > slave, > along with a new pipe and hose. I tried the conventional way (wife) a > bunch of > times, speed bleeder, stick on pedal, slow trickle, etc. nothing is > working > and I'm wondering if one of the new aftermarket cylinders is bad. There > are no > leaks and the canister remains full of silicone fluid...I'm wondering if > anyone has had any issues with these"authentic reproductions" as they're > called, made by Gold Classic I think, with seals or air leaks or just > general > failure? > One common misstep is connecting the hose to the upper port on the slave cylinder and the bleeder to the bottom port. This will make it impossible to expel the bubble of air above the bleeder. Some have gone to the extent of dismounting the slave cylinder and holding it vertical with the bleeder port at the highest point. This seems a bit extreme as I have had good luck with the cylinder mounted with the bleeder above the hose connection. Another possibility is that there is a fault in the master cylinder. There is a small seal that closes off the port from the reservoir to the master cylinder. There is a mechanism that pulls this seal off of the port when the pedal is released. If the mechanism becomes disengaged the port will remain sealed and it will not take up fluid when the pedal is released. But if that was the case your wouldn't get the "trickle" you mentioned. (Never heard of that technique before, how does that work?) Dave From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Mar 11 13:29:34 2012 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2012 15:29:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] Installing TR3 Interior In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Working on the assumption that a wheel hump is a wheel hump is a wheel hump.............. here's how it's done on a TR6. http://www.victoriabritish.com/interiors/T6/wheel-arch-cover-installation.htm They use a spray adhesive like 3M 77 but only glue the edges which is the easiest way to install them. Being dumb, or maybe a risk taker............ I did it this way http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/InteriorPanelInstall1.htm and it came out real good. Bob Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 1975 TR6 with: Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff & CVJs -----Original Message----- From: Joe DeMuth Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2012 1:43 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Installing TR3 Interior I am installing a new interior on aTR3. The panels are pretty straight forward, but no so with the rear wheel arches. The kit I bought has some synthetic horse-hair like padding that appears to be cut in a shape that suggests its use over the top and sides of the arches. Any suggestions or hints as to how this goes together? In particular, should I be using contact cement or spray adhesive to affix the pad to the arch, and what about the vinyl to the padding? Also, how thick should the padding be, (the stuff I have is about an inch thick) and how compressed by the top covering? ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From blambert at socal.rr.com Sun Mar 11 14:36:28 2012 From: blambert at socal.rr.com (D&B Lambert) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2012 13:36:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] Installing TR3 Interior In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: After doing a couple of TR3 interiors per the "book", next time I am going with the method espoused by Macy's Garage for the arches . (If there is a next time, of course). http://www.macysgarage.com/myweb6/wheel_arch_covers.htm Dennis NFI of course. > I am installing a new interior on aTR3. The panels are pretty straight > forward, but no so with the rear wheel arches. The kit I bought has > some synthetic horse-hair like padding that appears to be cut in a > shape that suggests its use over the top and sides of the arches. Any > suggestions or hints as to how this goes together? In particular, > should I be using contact cement or spray adhesive to affix the pad to > the arch, and what about the vinyl to the padding? Also, how thick > should the padding be, (the stuff I have is about an inch thick) and > how compressed by the top covering? From mark at bradakis.com Sun Mar 11 15:23:46 2012 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2012 15:23:46 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [TR] Progress, of sorts Message-ID: <20120311212346.3E1E62E05D@bradakis.com> Team.Net is working a tad bit better this weekend. At least now when you use the archive or forum links below you don't get a blank stare. The archives are more important, I'll work on them some more tonight. Right now it is a pleasant spring afternoon and my little truck is in serious need of attention, back outside for a while. mjb. From kinderlehrer at comcast.net Sun Mar 11 16:21:57 2012 From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2012 15:21:57 -0700 Subject: [TR] Back washing the heater In-Reply-To: <004d01ccffae$99142b50$0301a8c0@randall> References: <1331438217.62643.YahooMailNeo@web39406.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <004d01ccffae$99142b50$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <000101ccffd5$5f64cbe0$1e2e63a0$@net> I have done this, running the water through in one direction then the other until I get clean water coming out and then some. I have no idea how those coils are arranged in the heater, but it sure seems you can get a pretty good clean flow and still have crud at the bottom of the heater. I hate to admit it, but I used a bit more pressure than a pencil's width. I guess you could go 4 to 7 lbs with no problems - If you could measure that. To do a thorough cleaning, I remove the heater, fill it with vinegar, and shake it. Drain and repeat until I can fill it with the same volume of liquid that the book lists as the capacity. Then flush it out with water and reinstall. Bob -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Sunday, March 11, 2012 10:44 AM To: 'Cosmo Kramer'; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Back washing the heater > 1- Does this method of flushing > the heater mounted inside the GQ sound correct? Should work fine. > 2- Should I increase the > water flow (thus increasing the water pressure) I would. A stronger flow will pick up more crud and flush it out. > IF I do increase the water pressure, then how much? (1/4 turn?) Unfortunately, that is the tricky part. Both the pressure behind the faucet and how far the faucet opens for 1/4 turn can vary quite a bit. All I can suggest is to monitor the flow from the outlet hose, and open the faucet in small increments only until the flow is about pencil-sized or a bit larger. > 4- Does > anyone, suggest a better way of cleaning the heater, while > it's inside the GQ? I might be tempted to just leave it alone for now, put the car back together, and then flush it as part of the semi-annual cooling system maintenance. After all, you say it was working fine; and any sediment inside will likely get flushed through into the lower radiator tank, where it will come out when you change coolant. That also opens up the option of letting your local radiator shop do the flush. They usually have a tool that uses a mixture of water and low-pressure compressed air, that is more effective at flushing than just water. -- Randall ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/kinderlehrer at comcast.net From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Mar 12 15:10:44 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2012 14:10:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] Tonneau cover for TR3 / early TR3A Message-ID: <0cb201cd0094$977e2980$c67a7c80$@rr.com> I have been unhappy with the fit of tonneau covers from both Moss & TRF. None of them are cut large enough to reach all of the original studs, either on my previous early TR3A or my current TR3. I strongly suspect this is partly due to the studs moving around when the Dzus-button side curtains were introduced. Only TRF even shows a break in tonneau part numbers at that point (TS28xxx), but their "early" vinyl cover didn't fit my car either. I had to completely skip the front corner studs, and it was so tight over the remaining studs that the zipper has failed after only 2 years of use (and only occasionally snapping the studs on the driver's side). Has anyone with a LHD TR3 bought a tonneau cover that actually fit? -- Randall From pete_groh at yahoo.com Tue Mar 13 11:39:00 2012 From: pete_groh at yahoo.com (Pete Groh) Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2012 10:39:00 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?British_car_keys=2C_letters_=E2=80=8B=3F__FNR__Pos?= =?utf-8?q?sibly_Ford/N=3F/Rootes=3F_MRN=2E=2E_Morris/Rootes/Numbered=3F?= Message-ID: <1331660340.37463.YahooMailClassic@web111612.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> I received a inquiry from Nick in the UK and also exchanged e-mail with Peter Weston. Can anyone provide information on the different key codes. The 1st car key blank that I know of was a Bilfix key, that was cut along the side of the key blank. I will also post the question to the MG and Jaguar list Pete GrohB (KeyGuy) Sun, Mar 11, 2012 at 2:36 PM, Nick Walton Hi Pete thanks thats really good info... however, I get the impression they want to know exactly what eg FNR stood for. Possibly Ford/N?/Rootes? MRN... Morris/Rootes/Numbered? Do you see where I am coming from? Many thanks for what you have, if I can find out more I will put it into a document and froward it to the paper if thats ok with you? Nick Pete, Nick, Funny old world, isn't it! B The person who wrote to the local paper - Express & Star - was, wait for it, me! I write a monthly column about locks for the magazine Classic Car Monthly, and in the last issue I speculated about the possible derivation of the various alphabetical-series of old WB keys. B For instance, I joked that maybe 'FNR' stood for Fred, Norman and Ron, forgotten chaps in the drawing office. I wrote to the local paper hoping someone from the old Josiah Parkes company might see it, but so far no answers have been forthcoming. Thanks for trying to help, however, regards, Peter W From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk Tue Mar 13 12:00:59 2012 From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2012 18:00:59 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?British_car_keys=2C_letters_=E2=80=8B=3F__FNR__Pos?= =?utf-8?q?sibly_Ford/N=3F/Rootes=3F_MRN=2E=2E_Morris/Rootes/Numbered=3F?= In-Reply-To: <1331660340.37463.YahooMailClassic@web111612.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <1331660340.37463.YahooMailClassic@web111612.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1331661659.13639.YahooMailNeo@web29402.mail.ird.yahoo.com> Hi, Pete B As a very young greenhorn Apprentice at Jaguar (1962-65), I well remember the Wilmot Breedon 'key box' alongside the Final Finish line that was 'stuffed' with WB keys that spanned an enormous range of numbers and prefixes. Not too ashamed to admit that over the course of a year or two, I 'lifted' a few at different timesfor friends and acquaintances who needed a 'spare' set. My own car was a Frog Eye Sprite, and I recall keys from that box at Jaguar dispensing keys that went into various models from BMC, Rootes Group, Rolls Royce, Standard Triumph, Aston Martin and a good few others. As for the code FNR, it wouldn't surprise me to learn that Fred, Norman and Ron might well have played a larger part than they realised. Jonmac http://standard-triumph-books.co.uk >________________________________ > From: Pete Groh >To: triumphs at autox.team.net >Sent: Tuesday, 13 March 2012, 17:39 >Subject: [TR] British car keys, letters b ? FNR Possibly Ford/N?/Rootes? MRN.. Morris/Rootes/Numbered? > >I received a inquiry from Nick in the UK and also exchanged e-mail with Peter >Weston. >Can anyone provide information on the different key codes. The 1st car key >blank that I know of was a Bilfix key, that was cut along the side of the key >blank. > >I will also post the question to the MG and Jaguar list > >Pete GrohBB B (KeyGuy) > > > > >B B B >B B B >B B B >B B B >B B B Sun, Mar 11, 2012 at 2:36 PM, Nick >Walton > >Hi Pete thanks thats >really good info... however, I get >the impression they want to know exactly >what eg FNR stood for. >Possibly Ford/N?/Rootes? MRN... >Morris/Rootes/Numbered? >Do you see >where I am coming from? > >Many thanks for what you have, if I >can find out more I will put it into a >document and froward it to the >paper if thats ok with you? > >Nick > > > > >B B B >B B B >B B B >B B B >B B B >B B B > > >Pete, Nick, > >Funny old world, isn't it! B The person who >wrote to the local paper - Express >& Star - was, wait for it, me! >I write a monthly column about locks for the magazine Classic Car >Monthly, and >in the last issue I speculated about the possible >derivation of the various >alphabetical-series of old WB keys. B For >instance, I joked that maybe 'FNR' >stood for Fred, Norman and Ron, >forgotten chaps in the drawing office. > >I wrote to the local >paper hoping someone from the old Josiah Parkes company >might see it, >but so far no answers have been forthcoming. > >Thanks for trying >to help, however, > >regards, >Peter W > >** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk From dctr6 at optonline.net Tue Mar 13 14:40:50 2012 From: dctr6 at optonline.net (Dennis Culligan) Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2012 16:40:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] B & B clutch and Gunst T. O. Bearing in a TR6? Message-ID: <003101cd0159$9402eff0$bc08cfd0$@net> Has anybody recently put a Borg & Beck clutch in their TR6 and used the Gunst throw out bearing? TRF catalogs "recommend" that the Gunst bearing only be used w/ clutches with flat fingers (ie Luk) but as per a brief discussion with Dave from TRF, Mr. Gunst's recommendation may be more political than practical. I already have a Gunst bearing and can get a REALLY good price on a B & B clutch kit - will this work OK? Dennis Culligan, Highland NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Tue Mar 13 16:10:42 2012 From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com) Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2012 18:10:42 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Tonneau cover for TR3 / early TR3A Message-ID: <6e5ae.22f08544.3c911fe2@aol.com> Hi Randall; I have a very early TR3A, built in October 1957, TS22930LO. I heard about poor fitment of tonneaus on earlier cars, so mine is a custom made one from an upholsterer. It didn't cost much more than an "off the shelf" one, plus I had more colour options. In addition, I was able to specify a heavier-duty, more waterproof zip that is much longer. The longer zip means that less strain is put on the tonneau, right behind the end of the zip, when I am driving it solo and have the driver's half tucked behind the seat. I have the seat all the way back, so this caused the tonneau to rip with the shorter zip. It doesn't answer your question fully, but my point is that I was pleasantly surprised at the price of having a tonneau custom made for the car. Tim In a message dated 13/03/2012 12:41:04 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: I have been unhappy with the fit of tonneau covers from both Moss & TRF. None of them are cut large enough to reach all of the original studs, either on my previous early TR3A or my current TR3. I strongly suspect this is partly due to the studs moving around when the Dzus-button side curtains were introduced. Only TRF even shows a break in tonneau part numbers at that point (TS28xxx), but their "early" vinyl cover didn't fit my car either. I had to completely skip the front corner studs, and it was so tight over the remaining studs that the zipper has failed after only 2 years of use (and only occasionally snapping the studs on the driver's side). Has anyone with a LHD TR3 bought a tonneau cover that actually fit? -- Randall ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/kingscreektrees at aol.com From yellowtr at adelphia.net Tue Mar 13 16:11:47 2012 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2012 18:11:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] SU HS6 choke cable on a TR4 Message-ID: <4F5FC623.7080201@adelphia.net> Hi, Installing a set of HS6 carbs on my 63 4 and the existing choke cable is way too short. I looked up the part and TRF and MOSS show the same part # for the cable. I need something that is about 6 to 8 inches longer because it will have to mount from the top . It will have to go under the rear carb and then arch up and then go straight down. Does anyone know what part # would work for this application? Would a dual line setup like used on the TR6 work? Now, the HS6 was installed on the later TR4A. Wouldn't they have had the same issue? So wouldn't the cable for the 4A be a different part # than the 4? Thanks, Bob From tr3 at roadrunner.com Tue Mar 13 16:30:13 2012 From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (Hdefer) Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2012 15:30:13 -0700 Subject: [TR] Tonneau cover for TR3 / early TR3A In-Reply-To: <0cb201cd0094$977e2980$c67a7c80$@rr.com> References: <0cb201cd0094$977e2980$c67a7c80$@rr.com> Message-ID: <5A4AD1E2-F245-4635-90F6-A2FCE515C8E3@roadrunner.com> Randall, I had the same problem with that tonneau from Moss. Unfortunately, it came with the "package" I bought from the previous owner who had started renovation. I am planning to do the same as I did with my 190SL and have it custom made locally. It was far superior in quality and actually much cheaper. If interested I'll be happy to provide you with details Hans On Mar 12, 2012, at 2:10 PM, Randall wrote: > I have been unhappy with the fit of tonneau covers from both Moss & > TRF. > None of them are cut large enough to reach all of the original > studs, either > on my previous early TR3A or my current TR3. > > > > I strongly suspect this is partly due to the studs moving around > when the > Dzus-button side curtains were introduced. Only TRF even shows a > break in > tonneau part numbers at that point (TS28xxx), but their "early" > vinyl cover > didn't fit my car either. I had to completely skip the front > corner studs, > and it was so tight over the remaining studs that the zipper has > failed > after only 2 years of use (and only occasionally snapping the studs > on the > driver's side). > > > > Has anyone with a LHD TR3 bought a tonneau cover that actually fit? > > > > -- Randall > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ > tr3 at roadrunner.com From wbeech at flash.net Tue Mar 13 16:31:30 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2012 17:31:30 -0500 Subject: [TR] Tonneau cover for TR3 / early TR3A In-Reply-To: <6e5ae.22f08544.3c911fe2@aol.com> References: <6e5ae.22f08544.3c911fe2@aol.com> Message-ID: Randall, I got a cover from LBCco, this was from a maker in England and not from Moss. The first cover he sent did not fit well, and the wheel pocket was for a 15" rather than the standard 17" steering wheel. Ultimately, I packed up my original AMCO cover and sent over to him. He cut a cover to match the old one, fits great. Jeff stayed wit it until we got it right, I really appreciated that. All-in-all, next time I would go Tim's route and just have it custom made from scratch. Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" "Hello, my name is Bill and I own an old British car. Now...What are the next 11 steps?" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2012 5:11 PM To: tr3driver at ca.rr.com; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Tonneau cover for TR3 / early TR3A Hi Randall; I have a very early TR3A, built in October 1957, TS22930LO. I heard about poor fitment of tonneaus on earlier cars, so mine is a custom made one from an upholsterer. It didn't cost much more than an "off the shelf" one, plus I had more colour options. In addition, I was able to specify a heavier-duty, more waterproof zip that is much longer. The longer zip means that less strain is put on the tonneau, right behind the end of the zip, when I am driving it solo and have the driver's half tucked behind the seat. I have the seat all the way back, so this caused the tonneau to rip with the shorter zip. It doesn't answer your question fully, but my point is that I was pleasantly surprised at the price of having a tonneau custom made for the car. Tim In a message dated 13/03/2012 12:41:04 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: I have been unhappy with the fit of tonneau covers from both Moss & TRF. None of them are cut large enough to reach all of the original studs, either on my previous early TR3A or my current TR3. I strongly suspect this is partly due to the studs moving around when the Dzus-button side curtains were introduced. Only TRF even shows a break in tonneau part numbers at that point (TS28xxx), but their "early" vinyl cover didn't fit my car either. I had to completely skip the front corner studs, and it was so tight over the remaining studs that the zipper has failed after only 2 years of use (and only occasionally snapping the studs on the driver's side). Has anyone with a LHD TR3 bought a tonneau cover that actually fit? -- Randall ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/kingscreektrees at aol.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com Tue Mar 13 16:43:18 2012 From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly) Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2012 15:43:18 -0700 Subject: [TR] SU HS6 choke cable on a TR4 In-Reply-To: <4F5FC623.7080201@adelphia.net> References: <4F5FC623.7080201@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <000001cd016a$b0275020$1075f060$@rr.com> Hi Bob, I have a TR4A with HS6's, and Moss' 734-025 works for me. I assume your choke control is on the far right hand side of the center plinth. Correct? The DPO may have cut the cable currently in the car to make it fit. It fact I need to cut mine back a little since it hits the bonnet. Johnnie > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs- > bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Labuz > Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2012 3:12 PM > To: Triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] SU HS6 choke cable on a TR4 > > Hi, > > Installing a set of HS6 carbs on my 63 4 and the existing choke cable > is > way too short. I looked up the part and TRF and MOSS show the same part > # for the cable. > > I need something that is about 6 to 8 inches longer because it will > have > to mount from the top . It will have to go under the rear carb and then > arch up and then go straight down. > > Does anyone know what part # would work for this application? > > Would a dual line setup like used on the TR6 work? > > Now, the HS6 was installed on the later TR4A. Wouldn't they have had > the > same issue? So wouldn't the cable for the 4A be a different part # than > the 4? > > Thanks, > > Bob > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pdonnel1 at san.rr.com From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Tue Mar 13 16:36:16 2012 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2012 15:36:16 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Tonneau cover for TR3 / early TR3A In-Reply-To: <5A4AD1E2-F245-4635-90F6-A2FCE515C8E3@roadrunner.com> References: <0cb201cd0094$977e2980$c67a7c80$@rr.com> <5A4AD1E2-F245-4635-90F6-A2FCE515C8E3@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: <1331678176.33153.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> would you happen to have a template or dimensioned drawing? Frank From: Hdefer To: Triumph List Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2012 3:30 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Tonneau cover for TR3 / early TR3A Randall, I had the same problem with that tonneau from Moss. Unfortunately, it came with the "package" I bought from the previous owner who had started renovation. I am planning to do the same as I did with my 190SL and have it custom made locally. It was far superior in quality and actually much cheaper. If interested I'll be happy to provide you with details Hans On Mar 12, 2012, at 2:10 PM, Randall wrote: > I have been unhappy with the fit of tonneau covers from both Moss & TRF. > None of them are cut large enough to reach all of the original studs, either > on my previous early TR3A or my current TR3. > > > > I strongly suspect this is partly due to the studs moving around when the > Dzus-button side curtains were introduced. Only TRF even shows a break in > tonneau part numbers at that point (TS28xxx), but their "early" vinyl cover > didn't fit my car either. I had to completely skip the front corner studs, > and it was so tight over the remaining studs that the zipper has failed > after only 2 years of use (and only occasionally snapping the studs on the > driver's side). > > > > Has anyone with a LHD TR3 bought a tonneau cover that actually fit? > > > > -- Randall > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3 at roadrunner.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From yellowtr at adelphia.net Tue Mar 13 16:58:52 2012 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2012 18:58:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] SU HS6 choke cable on a TR4 In-Reply-To: <000001cd016a$b0275020$1075f060$@rr.com> References: <4F5FC623.7080201@adelphia.net> <000001cd016a$b0275020$1075f060$@rr.com> Message-ID: <4F5FD12C.1040801@adelphia.net> Johnnie, Thanks for your reply but.... The cable is original but for the stock H6 model carb. It attaches very low, not from the top. Just the same choke linkage as a TR3. It is just not long enough to reach either the front or rear carb where the cable would enter. I got this cable from TRF way back when I restored the 4. TRF lists the same part # for both the 4 and 4A so I know if I order one of those it will be way too short. The cable I need must be much longer than the stock one for the TR4. Bob On 03/13/2012 06:43 PM, John & Pat Donnelly wrote: > Hi Bob, > I have a TR4A with HS6's, and Moss' 734-025 works for me. > > I assume your choke control is on the far right hand side of the center > plinth. Correct? The DPO may have cut the cable currently in the car to make > it fit. It fact I need to cut mine back a little since it hits the bonnet. > > Johnnie > >> -----Original Message----- >> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs- >> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Labuz >> Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2012 3:12 PM >> To: Triumphs at autox.team.net >> Subject: [TR] SU HS6 choke cable on a TR4 >> >> Hi, >> >> Installing a set of HS6 carbs on my 63 4 and the existing choke cable >> is >> way too short. I looked up the part and TRF and MOSS show the same part >> # for the cable. >> >> I need something that is about 6 to 8 inches longer because it will >> have >> to mount from the top . It will have to go under the rear carb and then >> arch up and then go straight down. >> >> Does anyone know what part # would work for this application? >> >> Would a dual line setup like used on the TR6 work? >> >> Now, the HS6 was installed on the later TR4A. Wouldn't they have had >> the >> same issue? So wouldn't the cable for the 4A be a different part # than >> the 4? >> >> Thanks, >> >> Bob From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Mar 13 17:08:34 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2012 16:08:34 -0700 Subject: [TR] Tonneau cover for TR3 / early TR3A In-Reply-To: <6e5ae.22f08544.3c911fe2@aol.com> References: <6e5ae.22f08544.3c911fe2@aol.com> Message-ID: <0df101cd016e$37dc0990$a7941cb0$@rr.com> > It doesn't answer your question fully, but my point is that I was > pleasantly surprised at the price of having a tonneau custom made for > the car. Thanks, Tim. That is helpful. Last time I tried to talk to a local shop about a custom cover, they didn't even want to talk to me. But there is another shop up the road that I haven't tried, so maybe I'll have a chat with them. I've actually been considering buying some material and trying to do it myself, but that sounds like a better route if the price and result is reasonable. On your early TR3A, is the front peg on the door close to the elbow rail (less than 1" away), or more like 3" ? -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Mar 13 19:09:52 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2012 18:09:52 -0700 Subject: [TR] SU HS6 choke cable on a TR4 In-Reply-To: <4F5FC623.7080201@adelphia.net> References: <4F5FC623.7080201@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <0e0f01cd017f$29fa8250$7def86f0$@rr.com> I may be mistaken, but I believe the idea is that the currently supplied choke cable, listed for all TR4 and TR4A, is long enough to fit all applications. There are several different numbers in the original parts catalogues (401894/5, 401900/1, 401903/4; depending on which carb was fitted), but they all supercede to 401900/1. FWIW, Revington says to "consider" TKC2772, which is listed for a RHD TR7. Unfortunately, they don't give any particulars, so I don't know how you are supposed to "consider" it. -- Randall From cak at dimebank.com Tue Mar 13 19:17:17 2012 From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev) Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2012 18:17:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] SU rebuild In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4F5FF19D.8090800@dimebank.com> I have a pair of HS6s that have been sitting on the shelf for at least 10 years; besides being filthy, I'm sure that the throttle shafts leak. Who should I send them to? I'm pretty much out of touch with the best and the brightest these days... Thanks, chris From keithstewart at execulink.com Tue Mar 13 19:23:26 2012 From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart) Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2012 21:23:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] Tonneau cover for TR3 / early TR3A In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On Mon, 12 Mar 2012, at 14:10:44, Randall wrote: > > Has anyone with a LHD TR3 bought a tonneau cover that actually fit? My 57 TR3 has a tonneau from TRF that is several years old and it fits fine. It is currently in storage for the winter but next time I visit, I can get a picture if you want. The tonneau might actually be in my garage so if you want measurements, I can take those. Keith R. Stewart London, Ontario E-Mail: keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom From ghaynestr4 at aol.com Tue Mar 13 19:26:36 2012 From: ghaynestr4 at aol.com (George Haynes) Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2012 21:26:36 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] List Member From St. Louis Message-ID: <8CECF98A1ECADE6-19C4-1413@webmail-d152.sysops.aol.com> Last week a gentleman from St Louis offered to look at a car in Staunton, Ill. for me. Sadly (and stupidly) I have misplaced his name and contact info. Would the responder kindly contact me again? I am closer to making a deal and sure would like some impartial eyes looking for me. Alas, the car is not a Triumph. Thank you, George From sumton at sbcglobal.net Tue Mar 13 20:22:37 2012 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (dave n) Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2012 21:22:37 -0500 Subject: [TR] SU rebuild In-Reply-To: <4F5FF19D.8090800@dimebank.com> References: <4F5FF19D.8090800@dimebank.com> Message-ID: <26A8F16B0FEB4DEE891FE35842AF02BB@ranteer.local> paltech - http://www.paltech1.com/ they seem more expensive, but they redo everything and they come back gorgeous -------------------------------------------------- From: "Chris Kantarjiev" Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2012 8:17 PM To: Subject: [TR] SU rebuild > I have a pair of HS6s that have been sitting on the shelf for at least 10 > years; besides being filthy, I'm sure that the throttle shafts leak. > > Who should I send them to? I'm pretty much out of touch with the best and > the brightest these days... > > Thanks, > chris From mark at bradakis.com Tue Mar 13 21:01:24 2012 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2012 21:01:24 -0600 Subject: [TR] SU rebuild In-Reply-To: <4F5FF19D.8090800@dimebank.com> References: <4F5FF19D.8090800@dimebank.com> Message-ID: <4F600A04.60209@bradakis.com> Chris Kantarjiev wrote: > I have a pair of HS6s that have been sitting on the shelf for at least > 10 years; What car do these go on? mjb. From sumton at sbcglobal.net Wed Mar 14 05:42:55 2012 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (dave n) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2012 06:42:55 -0500 Subject: [TR] headlight trim rings In-Reply-To: <4F600A04.60209@bradakis.com> References: <4F5FF19D.8090800@dimebank.com> <4F600A04.60209@bradakis.com> Message-ID: its an early tr4, CT98XX. how do you remove the headlight trim rings? thanks! From terryrs at comcast.net Wed Mar 14 06:00:56 2012 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2012 12:00:56 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] An Electric Morgan? In-Reply-To: <26A8F16B0FEB4DEE891FE35842AF02BB@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <464592190.3687.1331726456830.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> >From the web page (which has the photo): Designed by the Morgan Motor Company, Zytek and Radshape, the Plus E Electric Car is based on Morgan's lightweight aluminium chassis with the revised 'traditional' body from the new BMW V8-powered Plus 8. If enough interest is generated from the first public showing of this new vehicle at the Geneva Motor Show -- going on now -- the 94 bhp (brake horse power) five-speed electric sportscar will most likely reach market. http://www.govtech.com/photos/Photo-of-the-Week-Classic-Car-Goes-Electric-03132012.html?elq=a93035c2b237443a8b122ac98882827f&elqCampaignId=109 From aljlthomson at charter.net Wed Mar 14 07:14:39 2012 From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2012 09:14:39 -0400 Subject: [TR] An Electric Morgan? In-Reply-To: <464592190.3687.1331726456830.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <26A8F16B0FEB4DEE891FE35842AF02BB@ranteer.local> <464592190.3687.1331726456830.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <000e01cd01e4$6990c900$3cb25b00$@charter.net> Ah yes - This was a news release from a site called govtech. I wonder if this car will use Solyndra sourced solar panels for daily charging? Alex Thomson -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of terryrs at comcast.net Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2012 8:01 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] An Electric Morgan? >From the web page (which has the photo): Designed by the Morgan Motor Company, Zytek and Radshape, the Plus E Electric Car is based on Morgan's lightweight aluminium chassis with the revised 'traditional' body from the new BMW V8-powered Plus 8. If enough interest is generated from the first public showing of this new vehicle at the Geneva Motor Show -- going on now -- the 94 bhp (brake horse power) five-speed electric sportscar will most likely reach market. http://www.govtech.com/photos/Photo-of-the-Week-Classic-Car-Goes-Electric-03 132012.html?elq=a93035c2b237443a8b122ac98882827f&elqCampaignId=109 ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net From spook01 at comcast.net Wed Mar 14 07:16:07 2012 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2012 08:16:07 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?An_Electric_Morgan=3F?= Message-ID: Think it'll go further than 40 miles on a charge? ;-) In the UK, the heater will eat the charge up pretty quickly! Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: terryrs at comcast.net To: Subject: [TR] An Electric Morgan? Date: Wed, Mar 14, 2012 07:00 >From the web page (which has the photo): Designed by the Morgan Motor Company, Zytek and Radshape, the Plus E Electric Car is based on Morgan's lightweight aluminium chassis with the revised 'traditional' body from the new BMW V8-powered Plus 8. If enough interest is generated from the first public showing of this new vehicle at the Geneva Motor Show -- going on now -- the 94 bhp (brake horse power) five-speed electric sportscar will most likely reach market. http://www.govtech.com/photos/Photo-of-the-Week-Classic-Car-Goes-Electric-03132012.html?elq=a93035c2b237443a8b122ac98882827f&elqCampaignId=109 ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From spook01 at comcast.net Wed Mar 14 07:23:05 2012 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2012 08:23:05 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Was_SU_rebuild=2C_now_upholstery?= Message-ID: I remember there was a fellow considered to be the most accomplished early TR upholstery expert. I don't know whose kits or spring sets he uses (TRF seems to have the spring set that is closest to original), but I wonder if anyone knows the guy. I believe he was in Illinois somewhere. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "dave n" To: Subject: [TR] SU rebuild Date: Tue, Mar 13, 2012 21:22 paltech - http://www.paltech1.com/ they seem more expensive, but they redo everything and they come back gorgeous -------------------------------------------------- From: "Chris Kantarjiev" Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2012 8:17 PM To: Subject: [TR] SU rebuild > I have a pair of HS6s that have been sitting on the shelf for at least 10 > years; besides being filthy, I'm sure that the throttle shafts leak. > > Who should I send them to? I'm pretty much out of touch with the best and > the brightest these days... > > Thanks, > chris ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From spook01 at comcast.net Wed Mar 14 07:32:52 2012 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2012 08:32:52 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?An_Electric_Morgan=3F?= Message-ID: And Litesource lighting! Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Alex & Janet Thomson" To: , Subject: [TR] An Electric Morgan? Date: Wed, Mar 14, 2012 08:14 Ah yes - This was a news release from a site called govtech. I wonder if this car will use Solyndra sourced solar panels for daily charging? Alex Thomson -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of terryrs at comcast.net Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2012 8:01 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] An Electric Morgan? >From the web page (which has the photo): Designed by the Morgan Motor Company, Zytek and Radshape, the Plus E Electric Car is based on Morgan's lightweight aluminium chassis with the revised 'traditional' body from the new BMW V8-powered Plus 8. If enough interest is generated from the first public showing of this new vehicle at the Geneva Motor Show -- going on now -- the 94 bhp (brake horse power) five-speed electric sportscar will most likely reach market. http://www.govtech.com/photos/Photo-of-the-Week-Classic-Car-Goes-Electric-03 132012.html?elq=a93035c2b237443a8b122ac98882827f&elqCampaignId=109 ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From anabil007 at comcast.net Wed Mar 14 10:30:00 2012 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2012 09:30:00 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] B & B clutch and Gunst T. O. Bearing in a TR6? In-Reply-To: <9CCC61DD86D67049B241705B6F03890B0158EF132945@HSCSEMAIL41.hscs.virginia.edu> References: <9CCC61DD86D67049B241705B6F03890B0158EF132945@HSCSEMAIL41.hscs.virginia.edu> Message-ID: <03F98504-6797-4EAD-A21A-DD474E78F465@comcast.net> The HVDA Toyota 5 speed conversion kit is required. Also a W85 Toyota 5 speed Transmission, they are from the 1985-87 Toyota Celica, and or Supra ... make sure you don't get the Truck one. Herman Van Den Akker is the only source for the conversion kit. His website is: http://www.hvdaconversions.com/products.html I used this kit on both our TR6 and TR3 ... had a little trouble with the TR3 installation, Herman drove up from the LA area, and showed me the correct way to fix it. The hydraulic clutch bearing eliminates the Triumph slave cylinder and works great. You can't do better than dealing with Herman, give him a call he will answer ... On Mar 14, 2012, at 6:37 AM, Ruffner, James A *HS wrote: > Is the Toyota 5-speed a direct installation, or are additional modifications > required? And which 5-speed is this? Just curious, in case... > ________________________________________ > From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of > Sally or Dick Taylor [tr6taylor at webtv.net] > Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2012 8:17 PM > To: Dennis Culligan; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [6pack] B & B clutch and Gunst T. O. Bearing in a TR6? > > Dennis---Not exactly "recently" but I installed the Gunst T/O bearing with the > Blue dot B&B disc and pressure plate about 8 years ago. Everything worked well > for the 10,000 miles or so, before I elected to go with the Toyota 5 speed, > which must use a different T/O bearing & sleeve. Mr. Gunst experienced > "whistling" when the B&B pressure plate was turning, and attributed this to > the shape of the cranked fingers. I heard no such sound, and I'm sort of fussy > about these things. Note - the B&B pressure plate is still in there, with the > Toyota disc. > > Dick > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Dennis Culligan > Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2012 1:40 PM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net, 6pack at autox.team.net > Subject: [6pack] B & B clutch and Gunst T. O. Bearing in a TR6? > > Has anybody recently put a Borg & Beck clutch in their TR6 and used the > Gunst throw out bearing? > > TRF catalogs "recommend" that the Gunst bearing only be used w/ clutches > with flat fingers (ie Luk) > > but as per a brief discussion with Dave from TRF, Mr. Gunst's recommendation > may be more political > > than practical. I already have a Gunst bearing and can get a REALLY good > price on a B & B clutch kit - > > will this work OK? > > > > Dennis Culligan, Highland NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/jar7u at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/anabil007 at comcast.net > > "Life is too short to drive Boring Cars" Bill Pugh Wallace, CA Casper 1957 TR3 TS16665L anabil007 at comcast.net From tr3 at roadrunner.com Wed Mar 14 11:32:24 2012 From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (Hdefer) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2012 10:32:24 -0700 Subject: [TR] Tonneau cover for TR3 / early TR3A In-Reply-To: <0df201cd016e$81553dd0$83ffb970$@rr.com> References: <0cb201cd0094$977e2980$c67a7c80$@rr.com> <5A4AD1E2-F245-4635-90F6-A2FCE515C8E3@roadrunner.com> <0df201cd016e$81553dd0$83ffb970$@rr.com> Message-ID: <081BA4A9-0960-49A2-ABFB-689C42BC4911@roadrunner.com> Randall, I just spoke with the guy who did my 190SL tonneau, 4 years ago, which I am very happy with ($400). Perfect fit -no shrinking or stiffening of the fleece lined vinyl when cold. He is reluctant, of course, to quote without seeing the car, but he was quite sure it would be $400 to $500, depending on the material you choose. It will help if he has your old pattern. If I remember correctly, Moss charges around $600+sh. for their better quality one. You can contact him at: tel. (562) 947-1219, (Lennie) Hans '61 TR3A On Mar 13, 2012, at 4:10 PM, Randall wrote: > If you can actually beat the Moss price, I am definitely interested! > > -- Randall > > >> -----Original Message----- >> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs- >> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Hdefer >> Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2012 3:30 PM >> To: Triumph List >> Subject: Re: [TR] Tonneau cover for TR3 / early TR3A >> >> Randall, I had the same problem with that tonneau from Moss. >> Unfortunately, it came with the "package" I bought from the previous >> owner who had started renovation. I am planning to do the same as I >> did with my 190SL and have it custom made locally. It was far >> superior in quality and actually much cheaper. >> If interested I'll be happy to provide you with details >> Hans >> >> >> On Mar 12, 2012, at 2:10 PM, Randall wrote: >> >>> I have been unhappy with the fit of tonneau covers from both Moss & >>> TRF. >>> None of them are cut large enough to reach all of the original >>> studs, either >>> on my previous early TR3A or my current TR3. >>> >>> >>> >>> I strongly suspect this is partly due to the studs moving around >>> when the >>> Dzus-button side curtains were introduced. Only TRF even shows a >>> break in >>> tonneau part numbers at that point (TS28xxx), but their "early" >>> vinyl cover >>> didn't fit my car either. I had to completely skip the front >>> corner studs, >>> and it was so tight over the remaining studs that the zipper has >>> failed >>> after only 2 years of use (and only occasionally snapping the studs >>> on the >>> driver's side). >>> >>> >>> >>> Has anyone with a LHD TR3 bought a tonneau cover that actually fit? >>> >>> >>> >>> -- Randall >>> >>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ >>> tr3 at roadrunner.com >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3driver at ca.rr.com From tr3abobm77 at frontier.com Wed Mar 14 14:16:51 2012 From: tr3abobm77 at frontier.com (tr3abobm77 at frontier.com) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2012 16:16:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] B & B clutch and Gunst T. O. Bearing in a TR6? (Toyota Conversions) In-Reply-To: <03F98504-6797-4EAD-A21A-DD474E78F465@comcast.net> References: <9CCC61DD86D67049B241705B6F03890B0158EF132945@HSCSEMAIL41.hscs.virginia.edu> <03F98504-6797-4EAD-A21A-DD474E78F465@comcast.net> Message-ID: <1A87D9F9B804441DA3BBB835581FBA9E@bobmaassel3> To be fair, Herman isn't the only source. Eagle Gate (www.eaglegatellc.com) in Mesa Arizona also makes one. I just bought one a couple of weeks ago and I liked it because I can use my stock TR3 pressure plate and slave cylinder. The kit comes with a new throwout shaft and fork so you don't have to use the old one. For personal reasons, I didn't want any hydraulics inside the bellhousing and I am not going to use anything but silicone brake fluid. I removed my TR3 tranny last weekend and the Toyota one is going in this coming weekend. Bob Maassel 59 TR3A TS39869l -------------------------------------------------- From: "William Pugh" Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2012 12:30 PM To: "Ruffner, James A *HS" Cc: ; "Sally or Dick Taylor" ; "Dennis Culligan" ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] B & B clutch and Gunst T. O. Bearing in a TR6? > The HVDA Toyota 5 speed conversion kit is required. Also a W85 Toyota 5 > speed > Transmission, they are from the 1985-87 Toyota Celica, and or Supra ... > make > sure you don't get the Truck one. > > Herman Van Den Akker is the only source for the conversion kit. His > website > is: > > http://www.hvdaconversions.com/products.html > > I used this kit on both our TR6 and TR3 ... had a little trouble with the > TR3 > installation, Herman drove up from the LA area, and showed me the correct > way > to fix it. The hydraulic clutch bearing eliminates the Triumph slave > cylinder > and works great. You can't do better than dealing with Herman, give him a > call he will answer ... From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com Wed Mar 14 14:36:48 2012 From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2012 13:36:48 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] [6pack] B & B clutch and Gunst T. O. Bearing in a TR6? (Toyota Conversions) In-Reply-To: <1A87D9F9B804441DA3BBB835581FBA9E@bobmaassel3> References: <9CCC61DD86D67049B241705B6F03890B0158EF132945@HSCSEMAIL41.hscs.virginia.edu> <03F98504-6797-4EAD-A21A-DD474E78F465@comcast.net> <1A87D9F9B804441DA3BBB835581FBA9E@bobmaassel3> Message-ID: <1331757408.55552.YahooMailNeo@web120504.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> There is also a conversion kit using the Toyota trans from www.conversioncomponents.co.nz I have also seen one from a company called DuPont Machine that uses the commonly available borg warner T5 gearbox. Chad in Tulsa From: "tr3abobm77 at frontier.com" To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2012 3:16 PM Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] B & B clutch and Gunst T. O. Bearing in a TR6? (Toyota Conversions) To be fair, Herman isn't the only source. Eagle Gate (www.eaglegatellc.com) in Mesa Arizona also makes one. I just bought one a couple of weeks ago and I liked it because I can use my stock TR3 pressure plate and slave cylinder. The kit comes with a new throwout shaft and fork so you don't have to use the old one. For personal reasons, I didn't want any hydraulics inside the bellhousing and I am not going to use anything but silicone brake fluid. I removed my TR3 tranny last weekend and the Toyota one is going in this coming weekend. Bob Maassel 59 TR3A TS39869l -------------------------------------------------- From: "William Pugh" Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2012 12:30 PM To: "Ruffner, James A *HS" Cc: ; "Sally or Dick Taylor" ; "Dennis Culligan" ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] B & B clutch and Gunst T. O. Bearing in a TR6? > The HVDA Toyota 5 speed conversion kit is required. Also a W85 Toyota 5 speed > Transmission, they are from the 1985-87 Toyota Celica, and or Supra ... make > sure you don't get the Truck one. > > Herman Van Den Akker is the only source for the conversion kit. His website > is: > > http://www.hvdaconversions.com/products.html > > I used this kit on both our TR6 and TR3 ... had a little trouble with the TR3 > installation, Herman drove up from the LA area, and showed me the correct way > to fix it. The hydraulic clutch bearing eliminates the Triumph slave cylinder > and works great. You can't do better than dealing with Herman, give him a > call he will answer ... ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Wed Mar 14 18:48:26 2012 From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2012 20:48:26 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] TR3A electrical/starter trouble Message-ID: <1a51c.182612e1.3c92965a@aol.com> Hi Everyone; I have an early TR3A that, as usual, I have stored for the winter. Today, I gave it a full ignition tune-up and changed the negative cable (it's still positive ground/earth) because it wasn't gripping the battery terminal tightly enough (upon starting, this was causing a loud click and sudden absence of ignition light, last year). While I was at it, I also made sure all connections were fine, including cleaning up the ground cable, where the coil mounts (it was fine anyway). Then, I tried to start it: Ignition on, press the button and nothing. The ignition light dims a bit, no clicking, ammeter shows discharge of, say, 10 amps. If I try it a few times, I can hear a faint clicking from the gear-reduction starter. I re-cleaned the battery connections, gave the starter a couple of good hits, charged the battery (it was fine anyway). Still the same symptom, although the clicking from the starter seems a bit louder and more consistent (though it's still quiet). I'm not very good at diagnosing electrical faults, so I wondered if anyone might have any hints. Much better with mechanical faults. Also, could it be a faulty solenoid? I seem to remember that the gear reduction starters come with an integral solenoid, obviating the one mounted on the firewall/scuttle. Can I just by-pass it? At the moment, I have a cable going from the starter to the soilenoid, then one from the solenoid to the battery. I would have thought that, as they're both on the same terminal, that it wouldn't make any difference. Sorry this is so long... Tim From spook01 at comcast.net Wed Mar 14 19:09:19 2012 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2012 20:09:19 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?TR3A_electrical/starter_trouble?= Message-ID: I would chalk this up to the known triumph revenge of "leave me in the winter by myself, I'll get you in the spring, you b--t--d." Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com To: Subject: [TR] TR3A electrical/starter trouble Date: Wed, Mar 14, 2012 19:48 Hi Everyone; I have an early TR3A that, as usual, I have stored for the winter. Today, I gave it a full ignition tune-up and changed the negative cable (it's still positive ground/earth) because it wasn't gripping the battery terminal tightly enough (upon starting, this was causing a loud click and sudden absence of ignition light, last year). While I was at it, I also made sure all connections were fine, including cleaning up the ground cable, where the coil mounts (it was fine anyway). Then, I tried to start it: Ignition on, press the button and nothing. The ignition light dims a bit, no clicking, ammeter shows discharge of, say, 10 amps. If I try it a few times, I can hear a faint clicking from the gear-reduction starter. I re-cleaned the battery connections, gave the starter a couple of good hits, charged the battery (it was fine anyway). Still the same symptom, although the clicking from the starter seems a bit louder and more consistent (though it's still quiet). I'm not very good at diagnosing electrical faults, so I wondered if anyone might have any hints. Much better with mechanical faults. Also, could it be a faulty solenoid? I seem to remember that the gear reduction starters come with an integral solenoid, obviating the one mounted on the firewall/scuttle. Can I just by-pass it? At the moment, I have a cable going from the starter to the soilenoid, then one from the solenoid to the battery. I would have thought that, as they're both on the same terminal, that it wouldn't make any difference. Sorry this is so long... Tim ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From anabil007 at comcast.net Wed Mar 14 19:20:51 2012 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2012 18:20:51 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A electrical/starter trouble In-Reply-To: <20120315011753.635C52D09EE@autox.team.net> References: <20120315011753.635C52D09EE@autox.team.net> Message-ID: Bad Battery ... On Mar 14, 2012, at 6:09 PM, spook01 at comcast.net wrote: > I would chalk this up to the known triumph revenge of "leave me in the winter by myself, I'll get you in the spring, you b--t--d." > > Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone > > ----- Reply message ----- > From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com > To: > Subject: [TR] TR3A electrical/starter trouble > Date: Wed, Mar 14, 2012 19:48 > > > Hi Everyone; > > I have an early TR3A that, as usual, I have stored for the winter. Today, I > gave it a full ignition tune-up and changed the negative cable (it's still > positive ground/earth) because it wasn't gripping the battery terminal > tightly enough (upon starting, this was causing a loud click and sudden > absence of ignition light, last year). > > While I was at it, I also made sure all connections were fine, including > cleaning up the ground cable, where the coil mounts (it was fine anyway). > > Then, I tried to start it: Ignition on, press the button and nothing. The > ignition light dims a bit, no clicking, ammeter shows discharge of, say, 10 > amps. > > If I try it a few times, I can hear a faint clicking from the > gear-reduction starter. > > I re-cleaned the battery connections, gave the starter a couple of good > hits, charged the battery (it was fine anyway). Still the same symptom, > although the clicking from the starter seems a bit louder and more consistent > (though it's still quiet). > > I'm not very good at diagnosing electrical faults, so I wondered if anyone > might have any hints. Much better with mechanical faults. Also, could it be > a faulty solenoid? I seem to remember that the gear reduction starters > come with an integral solenoid, obviating the one mounted on the > firewall/scuttle. Can I just by-pass it? At the moment, I have a cable going from the > starter to the solenoid, then one from the solenoid to the battery. I would > have thought that, as they're both on the same terminal, that it wouldn't > make any difference. > > Sorry this is so long... > > Tim > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/anabil007 at comcast.net "Life is too short to drive Boring Cars" Bill Pugh Wallace, CA Casper 1957 TR3 TS16665L anabil007 at comcast.net From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Wed Mar 14 19:35:00 2012 From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2012 21:35:00 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Was TR3A electrical/starter trouble, now NEVER MIND! Message-ID: 1. Very funny! I must remember to park other classic cars with it over the winter. 2. Correct! Bad battery it was. I just installed the battery from my wife's Mustang convertible (which was also winter stored, by itself, in a different outbuilding) and the TR cranked. My wife will get a surprise, though, when she gets back from her business trip and goes to use the Mustang. 3. Lesson learned. Apologies to everyone for wasting your time. Tim In a message dated 14/03/2012 9:20:53 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, anabil007 at comcast.net writes: Bad Battery ... On Mar 14, 2012, at 6:09 PM, _spook01 at comcast.net_ (mailto:spook01 at comcast.net) wrote: I would chalk this up to the known triumph revenge of "leave me in the winter by myself, I'll get you in the spring, you b--t--d." Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: _KingsCreekTrees at aol.com_ (mailto:KingsCreekTrees at aol.com) To: <_triumphs at autox.team.net_ (mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net) > Subject: [TR] TR3A electrical/starter trouble Date: Wed, Mar 14, 2012 19:48 Hi Everyone; I have an early TR3A that, as usual, I have stored for the winter. Today, I gave it a full ignition tune-up and changed the negative cable (it's still positive ground/earth) because it wasn't gripping the battery terminal tightly enough (upon starting, this was causing a loud click and sudden absence of ignition light, last year). While I was at it, I also made sure all connections were fine, including cleaning up the ground cable, where the coil mounts (it was fine anyway). Then, I tried to start it: Ignition on, press the button and nothing. The ignition light dims a bit, no clicking, ammeter shows discharge of, say, 10 amps. If I try it a few times, I can hear a faint clicking from the gear-reduction starter. I re-cleaned the battery connections, gave the starter a couple of good hits, charged the battery (it was fine anyway). Still the same symptom, although the clicking from the starter seems a bit louder and more consistent (though it's still quiet). I'm not very good at diagnosing electrical faults, so I wondered if anyone might have any hints. Much better with mechanical faults. Also, could it be a faulty solenoid? I seem to remember that the gear reduction starters come with an integral solenoid, obviating the one mounted on the firewall/scuttle. Can I just by-pass it? At the moment, I have a cable going from the starter to the solenoid, then one from the solenoid to the battery. I would have thought that, as they're both on the same terminal, that it wouldn't make any difference. Sorry this is so long... Tim ** _triumphs at autox.team.net_ (mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net) ** Donate: _http://www.team.net/donate.html_ (http://www.team.net/donate.html) Archive: _http://www.team.net/archive_ (http://www.team.net/archive) Forums: _http://www.team.net/forums_ (http://www.team.net/forums) Unsubscribe/Manage: _http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net_ (http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net) ** _triumphs at autox.team.net_ (mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net) ** Donate: _http://www.team.net/donate.html_ (http://www.team.net/donate.html) Archive: _http://www.team.net/archive_ (http://www.team.net/archive) Forums: _http://www.team.net/forums_ (http://www.team.net/forums) Unsubscribe/Manage: _http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/anabil007 at comcast.net_ (http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/anabil007 at comcast.net) "Life is too short to drive Boring Cars" Bill Pugh Wallace, CA Casper 1957 TR3 TS16665L _anabil007 at comcast.net_ (mailto:anabil007 at comcast.net) = From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Wed Mar 14 20:28:34 2012 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2012 21:28:34 -0500 Subject: [TR] Where did Triumph use the color cherry? Message-ID: I was looking at colors tonight and like the cherry on this set of chips. It is listed as a triumph color. Does any of you very knowledgable people know what model and years used this color? http://www.tcpglobal.com/autocolorlibrary/aclchip.aspx?image=1963-triumph-pg0 1.jpg Rich White Central, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF###L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Wed Mar 14 21:25:29 2012 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2012 20:25:29 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] tonneau Message-ID: <1331781929.41757.YahooMailNeo@web65510.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> At the present time I'm to lazy to go check the catalogue's but do tonneau's come with snaps already installed? I was under the impression that they would not.............that the owner installed the snaps to fit the car. just wondering gary n. From anabil007 at comcast.net Wed Mar 14 21:38:43 2012 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2012 20:38:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] Was TR3A electrical/starter trouble, now NEVER MIND! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Learning a lesson (s) is how we all got here ... Answering a question is NEVER a waste of time. On Mar 14, 2012, at 6:35 PM, KingsCreekTrees at aol.com wrote: > 1. Very funny! I must remember to park other classic cars with it over the winter. > 2. Correct! Bad battery it was. I just installed the battery from my wife's Mustang convertible (which was also winter stored, by itself, in a different outbuilding) and the TR cranked. My wife will get a surprise, though, when she gets back from her business trip and goes to use the Mustang. > 3. Lesson learned. Apologies to everyone for wasting your time. > > Tim > In a message dated 14/03/2012 9:20:53 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, anabil007 at comcast.net writes: > Bad Battery ... > > On Mar 14, 2012, at 6:09 PM, spook01 at comcast.net wrote: > >> I would chalk this up to the known triumph revenge of "leave me in the winter by myself, I'll get you in the spring, you b--t--d." >> >> Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone >> >> ----- Reply message ----- >> From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com >> To: >> Subject: [TR] TR3A electrical/starter trouble >> Date: Wed, Mar 14, 2012 19:48 > >> "Life is too short to drive Boring Cars" Bill Pugh Wallace, CA Casper 1957 TR3 TS16665L anabil007 at comcast.net From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Wed Mar 14 21:40:55 2012 From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2012 23:40:55 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] tonneau Message-ID: I've never known of a tonneau, soft top, soft top boot, etc. to come with the snaps fitted. As all cars are a bit different (especially TR's!), most of the snaps would not match up. Tim In a message dated 14/03/2012 11:26:41 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, nafzigerg at yahoo.com writes: At the present time I'm to lazy to go check the catalogue's but do tonneau's come with snaps already installed? I was under the impression that they would not.............that the owner installed the snaps to fit the car. just wondering gary n. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/kingscreektrees at aol.com From tr3 at roadrunner.com Wed Mar 14 21:46:49 2012 From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (Hdefer) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2012 20:46:49 -0700 Subject: [TR] tonneau In-Reply-To: <1331781929.41757.YahooMailNeo@web65510.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <1331781929.41757.YahooMailNeo@web65510.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: MIne came from Moss without the provided snaps installed, as did the top. Hans 61 TR3A On Mar 14, 2012, at 8:25 PM, Gary Nafziger wrote: > At the present time I'm to lazy to go check the catalogue's but do > tonneau's > come with snaps already installed? I was under the impression that > they would > not.............that the owner installed the snaps to fit the car. > > just > wondering > > gary n. > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ > tr3 at roadrunner.com From wbeech at flash.net Wed Mar 14 21:58:16 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2012 22:58:16 -0500 Subject: [TR] tonneau In-Reply-To: <1331781929.41757.YahooMailNeo@web65510.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <1331781929.41757.YahooMailNeo@web65510.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <779B282118774495A1FA49D10D5892A4@bboffice> They do not, you will have to fit the tonneau to your car. The L-T-D snaps are supplied, but not installed. Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary Nafziger Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2012 10:25 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] tonneau At the present time I'm to lazy to go check the catalogue's but do tonneau's come with snaps already installed? I was under the impression that they would not.............that the owner installed the snaps to fit the car. just wondering gary n. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From ptegler at verizon.net Wed Mar 14 22:13:33 2012 From: ptegler at verizon.net (ptegler) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2012 00:13:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] Where did Triumph use the color cherry? References: Message-ID: <157522282793410C8EA72853F1E7CCDB@dragonlairii> It was used on Spitfires at least (renamed Flemenco, code 22) ...even into the 'squaretail' years ('70-'80) 'Cherry' though was much more common I believe though on earlier TRs (3's 4s etc) http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphcolors/index.html Paul Tegler ptegler at verizon.net www.teglerizer.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rich White" To: "TR owners List" Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2012 10:28 PM Subject: [TR] Where did Triumph use the color cherry? >I was looking at colors > tonight and like the cherry on this set of chips. It is listed as a > triumph > color. Does any of you very > knowledgable people know what model and years used this color? > > http://www.tcpglobal.com/autocolorlibrary/aclchip.aspx?image=1963-triumph-pg0 > 1.jpg > > Rich White Central, IL USA > '63 TR3B TCF###L > That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Wed Mar 14 22:30:25 2012 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2012 21:30:25 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Morgan Factory in Malvern - Advice Needed. No Triumph Content Message-ID: <1331785825.26069.YahooMailRC@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I am considering flying from California to UK to visit the Morgan factory in Malvern Link with a friend. I see that the factory gives tours & rents cars out by the day and we would hope to drive around the countryside in a new Morgan. I have a variety of questions for my UK list friends. 1. We would go in the off-season, before or after the tourist season. Which time would be better, late spring or early fall? 2. How does one get from London or Heathrow to Malvern Link? Are there trains or buses? 3. We would like to do "guy" things like the Imperial War Museum. Any other suggestions? 4. Are there any tours where people take a bus to the factory for a day from somewhere else? 5. Anywhere else we should visit from Malvern Link? Dublin perhaps? My grandpa was from Burkenhead, but I think that it was pretty dreary. 6. I'll probably have to join the Morgan list and ask those guys, but thought that I would start on my home list first. I was in Paris, France last year with the family and my favorite part was seeing a new +8 Morgan, maroon with silver wings. I might be sick in the head. TIA, Bill in Tehachapi From mark at bradakis.com Wed Mar 14 22:52:55 2012 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2012 22:52:55 -0600 Subject: [TR] Was TR3A electrical/starter trouble, now NEVER MIND! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4F6175A7.8060906@bradakis.com> William Pugh wrote: > Learning a lesson (s) is how we all got here ... Answering a question is NEVER > a waste of time. > > Reminds me of the line about how good judgement is the result of experience, experience is the result of bad judgement. I'm making a bit of progress on getting searching working again in the archives [ link below ] Once that is done I'll work on getting them all updated. As a side note to that I may just try to generate a count of just how many Team.Net messages there have been over the last 20+ years. We shall see. mjb. From spitlist at cox.net Wed Mar 14 23:50:09 2012 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2012 22:50:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] Where did Triumph use the color cherry? In-Reply-To: <157522282793410C8EA72853F1E7CCDB@dragonlairii> References: <157522282793410C8EA72853F1E7CCDB@dragonlairii> Message-ID: <46E99F510A4A48DA9ADE86F9E391BDDF@Vista> Flamenco was a totally different color. The PPG Mix codes show this: Color Application TR color codes PPG Code ================================================ Cherry Red 64-69 22 71452 Flamenco Red SP 75-79 CAD 133 72144 Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of ptegler Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2012 9:14 PM To: Rich White; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Where did Triumph use the color cherry? It was used on Spitfires at least (renamed Flemenco, code 22) ...even into the 'squaretail' years ('70-'80) 'Cherry' though was much more common I believe though on earlier TRs (3's 4s etc) http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphcolors/index.html Paul Tegler ptegler at verizon.net www.teglerizer.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rich White" To: "TR owners List" Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2012 10:28 PM Subject: [TR] Where did Triumph use the color cherry? >I was looking at colors > tonight and like the cherry on this set of chips. It is listed as a > triumph > color. Does any of you very > knowledgable people know what model and years used this color? > > http://www.tcpglobal.com/autocolorlibrary/aclchip.aspx?image=1963-triumph-pg 0 > 1.jpg > > Rich White Central, IL USA > '63 TR3B TCF###L > That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk Thu Mar 15 04:40:14 2012 From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2012 10:40:14 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] Morgan Factory in Malvern - Advice Needed. No Triumph Content In-Reply-To: <1331785825.26069.YahooMailRC@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <1331785825.26069.YahooMailRC@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1331808014.28751.YahooMailNeo@web29405.mail.ird.yahoo.com> Bill Brewer wrote: I am considering flying from California to UK to visit the Morgan factory in Malvern Link with a friend. I see that the factory gives tours & rents cars out by the day and we would hope to drive around the countryside in a new Morgan. I have a variety of questions for my UK list friends. 1. We would go in the off-season, before or after the tourist season. Which time would be better, late spring or early fall? In this part of the country, Bill (near Malvern) we don't have an 'off' tourist season. Being so close to Stratford upon Avon, tourists are a daily feature. You don't notice it all that much because we're all packed together like canned fish anyway. 2. How does one get from London or Heathrow to Malvern Link? Are there trains or buses? The best way is a brief train ride into London from either Gatwick or Heathrow airports. Then go to London Paddington main line station, where you can get trains direct to Malvern. Usually run about hourly and journey time around 2.5 hours. 3. We would like to do "guy" things like the Imperial War Museum. Any other suggestions? Plenty. Unfortunately you haven't stated how long you plan to stay, whether you intend to be dependent on public transport or if you want to rent a car. 4. Are there any tours where people take a bus to the factory for a day from somewhere else? Not as far as I'm aware. 5. Anywhere else we should visit from Malvern Link? Dublin perhaps? My grandpa was from Burkenhead, but I think that it was pretty dreary. See answer to Q3. IMHO, Birkenhead is a dump at any time of day or year. Dublin at least has the Guinness Brewery, plenty of pubs and things to do. 6. I'll probably have to join the Morgan list and ask those guys, but thought that I would start on my home list first. We few Brits who inhabit this list like to 'rally to the call' on the rare occasions we're asked to do so :) Jonmac From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk Thu Mar 15 04:52:30 2012 From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2012 10:52:30 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] Where did Triumph use the color cherry? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1331808750.52799.YahooMailNeo@web29405.mail.ird.yahoo.com> Cherry was used extensively on Standard-Triumph's non-sports car range in the mid to late 60's - Herald saloon, convertible, estate / Vitesse saloon and convertible / 1300 & 1500 FWD saloons / Toledo saloon / Mk 1 2000 and 2.5PI saloon and estate. It was possible to order it for sports cars with either black or biscuit interior - but this was subject to an additional charge. Jonmac From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Mar 15 06:01:14 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2012 08:01:14 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Where did Triumph use the color cherry? Message-ID: <5e0f9.2453b1ab.3c93340a@cs.com> In a message dated 3/14/2012 9:38:14 PM Central Daylight Time, rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com writes: > I was looking at colors > tonight and like the cherry on this set of chips. It is listed as a > triumph > color. Does any of you very > knowledgable people know what model and years used this color? > > They're all cherry, aren't they? At least the ones on Ebay. Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Mar 15 06:16:04 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2012 08:16:04 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Morgan Factory in Malvern - Advice Needed. No Triumph Content Message-ID: <5e5aa.13893089.3c933784@cs.com> In a message dated 3/14/2012 11:30:31 PM Central Daylight Time, wsb1960tr3a at att.net writes: > 5. Anywhere else we should visit from Malvern Link? Dublin perhaps? My > grandpa > was from Burkenhead, but I think that it was pretty dreary. > You're not far from Wales. You could nip over the border and visit Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch. Dave From deruiterville at hotmail.com Thu Mar 15 06:35:43 2012 From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2012 07:35:43 -0500 Subject: [TR] Where did Triumph use the color cherry? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: >From the chip color that looks much closer to Carmine Red to me. Randy DeRuiter 64 Signal Red TR4, former 74 Spitfire Carmine Red owner > From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2012 21:28:34 -0500 > Subject: [TR] Where did Triumph use the color cherry? > > I was looking at colors > tonight and like the cherry on this set of chips. It is listed as a triumph > color. Does any of you very > knowledgable people know what model and years used this color? > > http://www.tcpglobal.com/autocolorlibrary/aclchip.aspx?image=1963-triumph-pg0 > 1.jpg > > Rich White Central, IL USA > '63 TR3B TCF###L > That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/deruiterville at hotmail.com From yellowtr at adelphia.net Thu Mar 15 07:20:42 2012 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2012 09:20:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] SU HS6 choke cable on a TR4 In-Reply-To: <1331816324.11546.YahooMailNeo@web39401.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <1331816324.11546.YahooMailNeo@web39401.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4F61ECAA.3000709@adelphia.net> Cosmo, Thanks for the reply. On my 4 there is no small hole in the firewall for the choke cable. There is only the hole for the heater cable. I could route the choke cable through that hole as well but the problem will still be a too short cable. As you can see from some of the replies, a new cable for a 4A should be long enough at least longer than the one currently installed. I think before I order a new cable, I will either call Moss or TRF and ask them how long the cable is. In the mean time I will remove my existing cable so I can compare measurements. When I get this task complete, I will post my results. Positive I hope. Bob On 03/15/2012 08:58 AM, Cosmo Kramer wrote: > Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2012 18:11:47 -0400 > From: Bob Labuz > > Subject: SU HS6 choke cable on a TR4 > > > Hi, > > Installing a set of HS6 carbs on my 63 4 and the existing choke cable is > way too short. I looked up the part and TRF and MOSS show the same part > # for the cable. > > I need something that is about 6 to 8 inches longer because it will have > to mount from the top . It will have to go under the rear carb and then > arch up and then go straight down. > > Does anyone know what part # would work for this application? > > Would a dual line setup like used on the TR6 work? > > Now, the HS6 was installed on the later TR4A. Wouldn't they have had the > same issue? So wouldn't the cable for the 4A be a different part # than > the 4? > -Bob > ------------------------------ > Hi Bob! > I'm catching up on my backlog of readings, so you may have the answer > by now. > I own a TR4A with the SU HS6 carbs. I run my choke cable out from the > bulkhead hole (Upper hole closest to the battery bracket support) OVER > the rear carb & down through the choke cable feral & straight down > through the choke cable anchor. > When I purchased a new choke cable & housing from Moss, USA- (I think. > I'll check my receipts if you wish?), I had to cut the cable's housing > short. I then inserted the cable all the way home & also cut the cable > slightly shorter & finished up soldiering (tinting) the end so it > won't start to fray & makes it easier to do the threading. > -Cosmo Kramer From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Thu Mar 15 07:33:29 2012 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2012 06:33:29 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] B & B clutch and Gunst T. O. Bearing in a TR6? In-Reply-To: <1331815271.84586.YahooMailNeo@web39402.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <1331815271.84586.YahooMailNeo@web39402.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1331818409.76575.YahooMailNeo@web39402.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hi Dennis! OK, I've read on & now I'm seeing that the thread has mentioned the Toyota 5 spd tranny, which wasn't mentioned before. Now all the info. that I was giving & asking about was in reference to the TRIUMPH Gearbox. (Weather it being an OD {A-type vs a J-type} or not.) If the gearbox is a Toyota 5spd from Herman, then you know that you MUST use the DPP & NOT the B&BPP, because it's stated in the directions. I have all 3 trannys (TR OD & standard, plus the Toyota 5 spd) in the Garage Queen (GQ- TR4A) at one time or another. BTW- The reason the FW's are different for the B&BPP vs the DPP is because of the the location of the mounting holes for each of the PP. -Cosmo Kramer >________________________________ > From: Cosmo Kramer >To: "dctr6 at optonline.net" >Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2012 8:41 AM >Subject: B & B clutch and Gunst T. O. Bearing in a TR6? > > >Dennis Culligan wrote: >Has anybody recently put a Borg & Beck clutch in their TR6 and used the Gunst throw out bearing? > >TRF catalogs "recommend" that the Gunst bearing only be used w/ clutches with flat fingers (ie Luk) >but as per a brief discussion with Dave from TRF, Mr. Gunst's recommendation may be more political >than practical. I already have a Gunst bearing and can get a REALLY good price on a B & B clutch kit - >will this work OK? >-Dennis Culligan, Highland NY >---------------------- >Hi Dennis! >I've been catching up on my backlogs of digest readings & came across your post. Now I haven't finished the rest of the readings, so the answer may be in there. > >I would like to know the results you have obtained. > >My TR4/A has the same set up as theTR6 (Diaphragm Pressure Plate (DPP) & the Gunst TOB). I too have the Flywheel (FW), B&B PP, LUK TOB set-up & have taken them out of a TR4. So I know that the B&BPP has to take a different FW from the DPPP, & both types of PP will take the same Clutch Disk. > >But I'm not sure about using the Gunst TOB with the B&BPP. I do know that it will work with the DPP. > >This way I'll know what I should keep or how to store it as a kit. TIA, >-Cosmo Kramer From rjones at wfeca.net Thu Mar 15 08:14:18 2012 From: rjones at wfeca.net (Robert Jones) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2012 09:14:18 -0500 Subject: [TR] Morgan Factory in Malvern - Advice Needed. No Triumph Content In-Reply-To: <1331808014.28751.YahooMailNeo@web29405.mail.ird.yahoo.com> References: <1331785825.26069.YahooMailRC@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <1331808014.28751.YahooMailNeo@web29405.mail.ird.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Bill: I would suggest that before you go you pick up a copy and read "The First and Last of the Real Sports Cars" by Gregory Houston Bowden. It usually can be obtained used on Amazon for $10.00 or so. This is the first of many Morgan books published in the last 40 years (1973) and gives a good picture of the factory and the production process from the beginning to the early 70's. Although the factory is in the same place now as it was then, much has changed. However, reading the book will give you a real historical prospective to help you on your visit. Although I have never been to Malvern, every time I take a ride or work on my 1961 Plus 4 or read a book about Morgan I am taken there. I can just see my Morgan being pushed from one shed to the next in those late months of 1960 and early months of 1961. Production then took as long as five months. Only 222 Plus 4's were made in 1961 and everyones a treasure, Bob On Mar 15, 2012, at 5:40 AM, John Macartney wrote: > Bill Brewer wrote: > > I am considering flying from California to UK to > visit the Morgan factory > in Malvern Link with a friend. I see that the > factory gives tours & rents cars > out by the day and we would hope to drive > around the countryside in a new > Morgan. > I have a variety of questions > for my UK list friends. > > 1. We would go in the off-season, before or after the > tourist season. Which time > would be better, late spring or early fall? > > In > this part of the country, Bill (near Malvern) we don't have an 'off' tourist > season. Being so close to Stratford upon Avon, tourists are a daily feature. > You don't notice it all that much because we're all packed together like > canned fish anyway. > > 2. How does one get from London or Heathrow to Malvern > Link? Are there trains or > buses? > > The best way is a brief train ride into > London from either Gatwick or Heathrow airports. Then go to London Paddington > main line station, where you can get trains direct to Malvern. Usually run > about hourly and journey time around 2.5 hours. > > 3. We would like to do "guy" > things like the Imperial War Museum. Any other > suggestions? > > Plenty. > Unfortunately you haven't stated how long you plan to stay, whether you intend > to be dependent on public transport or if you want to rent a car. > > 4. Are > there any tours where people take a bus to the factory for a day from > somewhere else? > > Not as far as I'm aware. > > 5. Anywhere else we should visit > from Malvern Link? Dublin perhaps? My grandpa > was from Burkenhead, but I > think that it was pretty dreary. > > See answer to Q3. IMHO, Birkenhead is a > dump at any time of day or year. Dublin at least has the Guinness Brewery, > plenty of pubs and things to do. > > 6. I'll probably have to join the Morgan > list and ask those guys, but thought > that I would start on my home list > first. > > We few Brits who inhabit this list like to 'rally to the call' on the > rare occasions we're asked to do so :) > > Jonmac > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rjones at wfeca.net From blambert at socal.rr.com Thu Mar 15 09:03:33 2012 From: blambert at socal.rr.com (D&B Lambert) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2012 08:03:33 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 Front Suspension Bushing Choice Message-ID: <12A177DD4B294523AF06CA87EEE59F79@Lambert1> Hello, In the process of my '71TR6 restoration I am close to the point where I'll be ordering new front suspension bushings. As such, I am waffling between two choices: urethane and nylatron. Rubber is not an option - I made that mistake when I first did my TR3 several years ago. I subsequently got rid of the rubber and put urethane on that car and have been reasonably happy with that choice. I am however, intrigued by the way the nylatron kits are engineered and I like the precision the nylatron promises, but have heard rumors of an overly harsh ride with the nylatron. Is that true? Is nylatron only for racing? My intended use for the car: about 6 or 7 thousand miles/yer, mostly on city/highway roads as well as freeway driving, with one or two casual autocrosses (usually Triumphest and/or VTR) thrown in. My wife and I usually take at least one extended trip per year in the TR. Here in SoCal lots of freeway driving is unavoidable, but I do like to find and drive the 2-lane highways and twisty back roads whenever possible. And also, like most of us, I like to go as fast as it's safe on the twisty parts; it's nice to have responsive and predictable steering. Is anybody willing to share their experience with their urethane or nylatron setup? I know this has been covered before, and I'm not trying to start a raging debate - I'm after "been-there-done-that" experience and info. As always, thanks. Dennis From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Thu Mar 15 09:36:25 2012 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2012 08:36:25 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Back Washing the heater Message-ID: <1331825785.12175.YahooMailNeo@web39401.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hi List! I want to thank everyone who replied to this thread. I did do this job, & I'd like to give you the detailed follow up. 1- I took a discarded garden hose (GH) & cut the Female end about 18" long. Inserted a 1" length of plastic tube (ID-1/2", OD-5/8") on the lower Bulkhead heater fitting. (the one used for the exit heating hose to the back of the engine's water tube). 2- I then cut the male end of this GH to about 20'. I did the same thing with the plastic tube as before(because the GH's ID=5/8") & installed it on the output Bulkhead Heater fitting (using the car's hose clamps), & ran it down the engine bay, under the car, & out of the garage. 3- I then mixed up a batch of baking soda (about 5 oz.) into a qt. bottle of hot water. I raised the GH outside end, attached to the car's heater, above the height of the car. I then poured the mixture into the female end of the car's heater hose fitting & let it sit for about 2 1/2 hr. 4- Lowering the outside (male end) to the ground (where I would be able to view the exported material), & I connecting the house GH to the Female end, that was attached to the car's heat. I cracked the house outside faucet to view the old green coolant to then turn clear (Meanwhile I had my grand daughter looking under the dash at the heater to let me know of any leaks that might happen.) No crud came out (as I expected). 5- I then increased the opening house water faucet to the point of a steady 5/8"stream coming onto the driveway for about 1 min. ( Remembering that the cooling system is normally kept at 7# of pressure.) 6- I turned off the house water, disconnect the house GH from the GH attached to the heater Bulkhead fitting, & let it drained until the flow stopped. 7- I disconnected the hoses from the car & attached the car's heater hoses, in the correct location, followed by installing the record radiator. -Cosmo Kramer From klassiccar at aol.com Thu Mar 15 11:40:01 2012 From: klassiccar at aol.com (klassiccar at aol.com) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2012 13:40:01 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Morgan factory Message-ID: <8CED0E9C8877ABC-20FC-8BD8@webmail-d164.sysops.aol.com> Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2012 21:30:25 -0700 (PDT) From: William Brewer To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] Morgan Factory in Malvern - Advice Needed. No Triumph Content I am considering flying from California to UK to visit the Morgan factory in Malvern Link with a friend. I see that the factory gives tours & rents cars out by the day and we would hope to drive around the countryside in a new Morgan. I have a variety of questions 3. We would like to do "guy" things like the Imperial War Museum. Any other suggestions? Bill, If you run out of guy stuff in London, here are places to consider: www.brooklands.org.uk www.donington-park.co.uk www.duxford.imw.org.uk www.heritage-motor-centre.co.uk www.beaulieu.co.uk mini factory in Oxfordshire and hang out at: www.virginsandcastle.co.uk in Kenilworth Have Fun, Steve Klein From skip47 at gbis.com Thu Mar 15 11:54:00 2012 From: skip47 at gbis.com (Skip Gurnee) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2012 10:54:00 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 Front Suspension Bushing Choice References: <12A177DD4B294523AF06CA87EEE59F79@Lambert1> Message-ID: <69B17979E7604C72A92B7FCFF279BA12@zeus> In my experience, EVERY change to a real sports car should be to improve performance, not comfort. Comfort is a relative thing. If you want a soft ride, buy a 1957 Chrysler Imperial. It won't stop, (at least my dad's wouldn't) and you may get carsick from the swaying and floating, but the ride will be "comfortable". Compare a contemporary Chrysler and find the ride is harder. Is that comfortable? I say yes, because the car is better able to go, turn, and stop when and where YOU want. Triumphs do all those things even better than Chryslers. Triumphs with race-proven parts do it even better than that, with little diminution of perceived comfort.. So what do you think is comfortable? I say go with the race parts. Best, Skip Gurnee 64 TR4, 65 TR4A 67 Lotus Cortina 70 TVR Vixen (race car, comfortable to me) ----- Original Message ----- From: "D&B Lambert" To: <6pack-bounces at autox.team.net>; Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2012 8:03 AM Subject: [TR] TR6 Front Suspension Bushing Choice > Hello, > > In the process of my '71TR6 restoration I am close to the point where I'll > be ordering new front suspension bushings. As such, I am waffling between > two choices: urethane and nylatron. > > Dennis > __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 6969 (20120315) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com From zoboherald at aol.com Thu Mar 15 12:09:27 2012 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2012 14:09:27 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Where did Triumph use the color cherry? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CED0EDE514C43E-1DB8-7022@webmail-m152.sysops.aol.com> Looking at that chart on my monitor, every color is probably 2-3 shades DARKER than reality. As "Jonmac" pointed out, the color seems to have been used mostly on the "non-sporting" Triumphs. Also, it has been my observation (although I don't have any absolute proof) that it -- like a number of other colors -- was NOT routinely available on cars built for the US, but it was available in Canada (such as the "Sports 12/50-badged" Herald sedan -- sold that way only in Canada -- that I picked up a couple years ago, which happens to have been Cherry with the Cactus Green interior). --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us -----Original Message----- From: Randy and Valerie DeRuiter >From the chip color that looks much closer to Carmine Red to me. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Mar 15 12:28:40 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2012 11:28:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 Front Suspension Bushing Choice In-Reply-To: <12A177DD4B294523AF06CA87EEE59F79@Lambert1> References: <12A177DD4B294523AF06CA87EEE59F79@Lambert1> Message-ID: <0feb01cd02d9$725bf3c0$5713db40$@rr.com> Might not be strictly applicable to your '6 Dennis, as it has a softer suspension to start with. But I ran Nylatron for many years in my street TR3A front suspension. There was no noticeable (to me) increase in harshness or noise; and in fact I liked the setup so well that it is now installed on my street TR3. It also says something for the longevity of the Nylatron that it was still useable after roughly a decade of daily driving (likely in the neighborhood of 100,000 miles), and after a severe accident that actually tore part of the front suspension away from the frame. I had actually tried to buy a new Nylatron kit for the TR3, but BFE no longer carries them. Apparently they don't sell well, because they last forever :) IMO tire choice plays a much larger role in ride quality than the bushings do. If you get some really harsh tires, then the bushings may make a larger difference. The Bridgestones I have now ride pretty good, but I once had a set of Michelins that made it seem you could feel every grain of sand in the road. FWIW, I also added grease zerks to the joints with the Nylatron, so I could add a shot of grease from time to time. Probably not necessary (the Nylatron is supposed to be self-lubricating), but it seemed like a good idea to me just to help keep water out of the joint. I used to work on the Redondo Beach pier, and ocean spray can corrode even mild stainless steel. -- Randall From sumton at sbcglobal.net Thu Mar 15 13:23:44 2012 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (dave n) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2012 14:23:44 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 Front Suspension Bushing Choice In-Reply-To: <12A177DD4B294523AF06CA87EEE59F79@Lambert1> References: <12A177DD4B294523AF06CA87EEE59F79@Lambert1> Message-ID: Subject: [TR] TR6 Front Suspension Bushing Choice for me it was obvious - I want the car to go faster and handle better. goodparts suspension components, and nylatron. this is a sports car, not my dad's buick. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Mar 15 14:08:11 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2012 13:08:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] Morgan Factory in Malvern - Advice Needed. No Triumph Content In-Reply-To: <5e5aa.13893089.3c933784@cs.com> References: <5e5aa.13893089.3c933784@cs.com> Message-ID: <001701cd02e7$59885420$0c98fc60$@rr.com> > You're not far from Wales. You could nip over the border and visit > Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch. But then he'd never be able to tell anyone where he'd been ! -- Randall From 63trumpster at bellsouth.net Thu Mar 15 14:24:42 2012 From: 63trumpster at bellsouth.net (Jeff Lee) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2012 13:24:42 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] I DID IT!... Message-ID: <1331843082.23231.androidMobile@web180201.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Hola friend...

my parents were sick of lending me money all the time this couldnt have come at a better time I refused to continue depending on other people.
http://skysthelimit2.com/newsjournal/74GeoffreyBennett/ I waited so long for my time to shine
trust me this is no joke.
see you...

From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk Thu Mar 15 14:27:36 2012 From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2012 20:27:36 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] Morgan Factory in Malvern - Advice Needed. No Triumph Content In-Reply-To: <001701cd02e7$59885420$0c98fc60$@rr.com> References: <5e5aa.13893089.3c933784@cs.com> <001701cd02e7$59885420$0c98fc60$@rr.com> Message-ID: <1331843256.83746.YahooMailNeo@web29402.mail.ird.yahoo.com> I'm told (on reliable authority) that the local inhabitants will happily give visitors pronounciation lessons. Jonmac ________________________________ From: Randall To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, 15 March 2012, 20:08 Subject: Re: [TR] Morgan Factory in Malvern - Advice Needed. No Triumph Content >> You're not far from Wales. You could nip over the border and visit >> Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch. > >But then he'd never be able to tell anyone where he'd been ! > >-- Randall > >** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Mar 15 14:59:49 2012 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2012 16:59:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Front Suspension Bushing Choice In-Reply-To: <12A177DD4B294523AF06CA87EEE59F79@Lambert1> References: <12A177DD4B294523AF06CA87EEE59F79@Lambert1> Message-ID: <7EBEB6BCDD414B1FAA44B4C639DA4B85@DellLaptop> I've got about 6 or 7 years on Goodparts Nylatron, both front & rear suspension with no problems.....harshness is in the "butt of the beholder"............. different people feel It differently but no problem for me. And...........they don't squeak............ at least mine never have. Bob Danielson www.TR6.Danielsonfamily.org 1975 Mimosa TR6 with: Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff CVJs And more.... -----Original Message----- From: D&B Lambert Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2012 11:03 AM To: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net ; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR6 Front Suspension Bushing Choice Hello, In the process of my '71TR6 restoration I am close to the point where I'll be ordering new front suspension bushings. As such, I am waffling between two choices: urethane and nylatron. Rubber is not an option - I made that mistake when I first did my TR3 several years ago. I subsequently got rid of the rubber and put urethane on that car and have been reasonably happy with that choice. I am however, intrigued by the way the nylatron kits are engineered and I like the precision the nylatron promises, but have heard rumors of an overly harsh ride with the nylatron. Is that true? Is nylatron only for racing? My intended use for the car: about 6 or 7 thousand miles/yer, mostly on city/highway roads as well as freeway driving, with one or two casual autocrosses (usually Triumphest and/or VTR) thrown in. My wife and I usually take at least one extended trip per year in the TR. Here in SoCal lots of freeway driving is unavoidable, but I do like to find and drive the 2-lane highways and twisty back roads whenever possible. And also, like most of us, I like to go as fast as it's safe on the twisty parts; it's nice to have responsive and predictable steering. Is anybody willing to share their experience with their urethane or nylatron setup? I know this has been covered before, and I'm not trying to start a raging debate - I'm after "been-there-done-that" experience and info. As always, thanks. Dennis ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Mar 15 15:02:59 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2012 17:02:59 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Morgan Factory in Malvern - Advice Needed. No Triumph Content Message-ID: <3bfd6.69f5e46c.3c93b303@cs.com> In a message dated 3/15/2012 3:18:52 PM Central Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > >You're not far from Wales. You could nip over the border and visit > >Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch. > > But then he'd never be able to tell anyone where he'd been ! > Good point. And if you steel the road sign you'd never fit it in the luggage. From triosan at gmail.com Thu Mar 15 15:03:30 2012 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2012 14:03:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] Morgan Factory in Malvern - Advice Needed. No Triumph Content In-Reply-To: <001701cd02e7$59885420$0c98fc60$@rr.com> References: <5e5aa.13893089.3c933784@cs.com> <001701cd02e7$59885420$0c98fc60$@rr.com> Message-ID: And as long as yourr in Wales, do not miss Portmeirion -- fake Italian village and great gardens.. Got to spend Thanksgiving there last year [not that they knew it], and it is just fabulous. Don't know how I managed spend a year in England and not hook up with Jon or go to Morgan in Malvern. Darn. And Jon, you are not packed in in England -- my overriding impression is one of green pastures, rock or hedge rows and SHEEP. On Thu, Mar 15, 2012 at 1:08 PM, Randall wrote: > > You're not far from Wales. You could nip over the border and visit > > Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch. > > But then he'd never be able to tell anyone where he'd been ! > > -- Randall > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triosan at gmail.com > -- Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Mar 15 15:05:07 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2012 17:05:07 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Morgan Factory in Malvern - Advice Needed. No Triumph Content Message-ID: <3c138.470fd53d.3c93b383@cs.com> In a message dated 3/15/2012 3:36:34 PM Central Daylight Time, flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk writes: > I'm told (on reliable authority) that the local inhabitants will happily > give > visitors pronounciation lessons. > The trick being learning how to pronounce the double "L." From terryrs at comcast.net Thu Mar 15 15:28:42 2012 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2012 21:28:42 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Figure 8 Gaskets In-Reply-To: <5e5aa.13893089.3c933784@cs.com> Message-ID: <690933664.93661.1331846922156.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> One thing I don't understand. When I pulled the head to do my engine rebuild, cylinders one and two were flush with the block, that is not standing proud like the others. How can that be? The figure 8 gaskets are steel and not crushable, right? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From agraham at execulink.com Thu Mar 15 16:49:44 2012 From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2012 18:49:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] NGK plugs for TR2 Message-ID: <4F627208.1060101@execulink.com> Hello List: Trying to source some NGK plugs locally for my '2. Time to retire the old KLGs. I take it that the TR2 can use the same NGK BP6HS as the TR3As, despite the slight increase in engine performance of the 3A. Also, the NGK catalog also lists a BPR6HS as the standard recommended plug for the TR3A. Does anyone know if this 'new' number supersedes the old BP6HS? Should I still ask for an NGK BP6HS? Thanks for any help with this one. Angelo Graham From aljlthomson at charter.net Thu Mar 15 17:25:44 2012 From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2012 19:25:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] Car Available Message-ID: <000c01cd0302$f1ca7e50$d55f7af0$@charter.net> This from a Connecticut TR member. NFI. Call Bob Bailey directly. Alex Thomson 1976 Triumph Spitfire. 80- 85% complete. Body was removed from frame during re-build. Engine starts, needs fine tuning. Good oil pressure. Good compression Car will drive in forward and reverse, but I have not had it on the road yet for a true test drive * Overdrive transmission rebuilt by Dave Pettigrew * Rear end rebuilt by Dave Pettigrew * New wiring harness from Rimmer Bros * New windshield (on car) * New plastic Dash overlay (on car) * New walnut 3 piece dash (in place) * New dual exhaust (installed) * All new bushings, ball joints & front end stuff. (installed) * New shocks front and rear (installed) * 2 new tyres on rims two new tyres that need to be mounted. All four rims are good. * Seats are not in the best shape. Seat frames and rails are good * Original carpet is OK. * Car has a roll bar W/Padding. (installed) * Header (came on engine) Lot's of small extras, air filters, some relay's, OD Switch and shifter Cap. OD wiring harness, speedo cable Luggage rack (used, but decent) other stuff, too much to detail Would really like to get $3, 000.00 but will consider any reasonable offer. Car can be seen in West Haven, CT. I can email additional pictures to anyone interested Day time: 203-985-3411 (7A-4P) Evenings after 6 and weekends 203-932-5030 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Mar 15 17:58:45 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2012 16:58:45 -0700 Subject: [TR] NGK plugs for TR2 In-Reply-To: <4F627208.1060101@execulink.com> References: <4F627208.1060101@execulink.com> Message-ID: <003801cd0307$8f5e9fd0$ae1bdf70$@rr.com> > Does anyone know if this 'new' number supersedes the old BP6HS? The 'R' just means that the plug incorporates a resistor for RFI suppression. Should work exactly like the BP6HS plug otherwise. > I take it that the TR2 can use the same NGK BP6HS as the TR3As, > despite the slight increase in engine performance of the 3A. Should be fine, IMO. But if not, a set of plugs is cheap enough that you can experiment with one range hotter or colder. It depends as much on your driving style as engine performance. -- Randall From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Thu Mar 15 18:41:34 2012 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2012 17:41:34 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Morgan Factory in Malvern - Advice Needed. No Triumph Content In-Reply-To: <5e5aa.13893089.3c933784@cs.com> References: <5e5aa.13893089.3c933784@cs.com> Message-ID: <1331858494.96748.YahooMailNeo@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> oh yes. i forgot to mention wales. its my most favorite country in the world. the people are wonderful and the country is spectacular. I'm especially fond of north wales where i spend most weekends of my childhood. places like rhyl, llandudno, Rhydymwyn, Betws-y-Coed and the isle of anglese. thats a tour for an english roadster. gosh i so want to join you now its a must Frank Fisher ________________________________ From: "Dave1massey at cs.com" To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2012 5:16 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Morgan Factory in Malvern - Advice Needed. No Triumph Content In a message dated 3/14/2012 11:30:31 PM Central Daylight Time, wsb1960tr3a at att.net writes: > 5. Anywhere else we should visit from Malvern Link? Dublin perhaps? My > grandpa > was from Burkenhead, but I think that it was pretty dreary. > You're not far from Wales. You could nip over the border and visit Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch. Dave ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Thu Mar 15 18:46:26 2012 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2012 17:46:26 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Morgan Factory in Malvern - Advice Needed. No Triumph Content In-Reply-To: References: <1331785825.26069.YahooMailRC@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <1331808014.28751.YahooMailNeo@web29405.mail.ird.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1331858786.26836.YahooMailNeo@web120205.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> best of all. plan your trip around the goodwood revival. Frank ________________________________ From: Robert Jones To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2012 7:14 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Morgan Factory in Malvern - Advice Needed. No Triumph Content Bill: I would suggest that before you go you pick up a copy and read "The First and Last of the Real Sports Cars" by Gregory Houston Bowden. It usually can be obtained used on Amazon for $10.00 or so. This is the first of many Morgan books published in the last 40 years (1973) and gives a good picture of the factory and the production process from the beginning to the early 70's. Although the factory is in the same place now as it was then, much has changed. However, reading the book will give you a real historical prospective to help you on your visit. Although I have never been to Malvern, every time I take a ride or work on my 1961 Plus 4 or read a book about Morgan I am taken there. I can just see my Morgan being pushed from one shed to the next in those late months of 1960 and early months of 1961. Production then took as long as five months. Only 222 Plus 4's were made in 1961 and everyones a treasure, Bob On Mar 15, 2012, at 5:40 AM, John Macartney wrote: > Bill Brewer wrote: > > I am considering flying from California to UK to > visit the Morgan factory > in Malvern Link with a friend. I see that the > factory gives tours & rents cars > out by the day and we would hope to drive > around the countryside in a new > Morgan. > I have a variety of questions > for my UK list friends. > > 1. We would go in the off-season, before or after the > tourist season. Which time > would be better, late spring or early fall? > > In > this part of the country, Bill (near Malvern) we don't have an 'off' tourist > season. Being so close to Stratford upon Avon, tourists are a daily feature. > You don't notice it all that much because we're all packed together like > canned fish anyway. > > 2. How does one get from London or Heathrow to Malvern > Link? Are there trains or > buses? > > The best way is a brief train ride into > London from either Gatwick or Heathrow airports. Then go to London Paddington > main line station, where you can get trains direct to Malvern. Usually run > about hourly and journey time around 2.5 hours. > > 3. We would like to do "guy" > things like the Imperial War Museum. Any other > suggestions? > > Plenty. > Unfortunately you haven't stated how long you plan to stay, whether you intend > to be dependent on public transport or if you want to rent a car. > > 4. Are > there any tours where people take a bus to the factory for a day from > somewhere else? > > Not as far as I'm aware. > > 5. Anywhere else we should visit > from Malvern Link? Dublin perhaps? My grandpa > was from Burkenhead, but I > think that it was pretty dreary. > > See answer to Q3. IMHO, Birkenhead is a > dump at any time of day or year. Dublin at least has the Guinness Brewery, > plenty of pubs and things to do. > > 6. I'll probably have to join the Morgan > list and ask those guys, but thought > that I would start on my home list > first. > > We few Brits who inhabit this list like to 'rally to the call' on the > rare occasions we're asked to do so :) > > Jonmac > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rjones at wfeca.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From mark at bradakis.com Thu Mar 15 19:00:52 2012 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2012 19:00:52 -0600 Subject: [TR] Morgan Factory in Malvern - Advice Needed. No Triumph Content In-Reply-To: <1331858786.26836.YahooMailNeo@web120205.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1331785825.26069.YahooMailRC@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <1331808014.28751.YahooMailNeo@web29405.mail.ird.yahoo.com> <1331858786.26836.YahooMailNeo@web120205.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4F6290C4.6010203@bradakis.com> Years ago my wife and I went to England. Flew into London then hopped on a train to Wales where our friends lived. Slept through the train ride except for the moment I woke up, looked out the window and say a Jag XJS Estate. Cool! Also woke up when the train made a short stop at Malvern. Wished I would have had more time. Fun trip for the most part, including a day spent at the TR Register's 21st annual gathering. I should have a bunch of pictures from that event somewhere. mjb. From wbeech at flash.net Thu Mar 15 19:12:08 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2012 20:12:08 -0500 Subject: [TR] NGK plugs for TR2 In-Reply-To: <4F627208.1060101@execulink.com> References: <4F627208.1060101@execulink.com> Message-ID: <84B3A442740A4A6C9D4C1C6630BB86C7@bboffice> Angelo, Here is a chart that should help. The "R" is for resistor, for what little I know this is to keep the spark plugs from causing static on your 60 year old AM radio. I am sure there are other reasons as well, but what is important is the size and the heat range are the same. http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/partnumberkey.pdf Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Angelo Graham Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2012 5:50 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] NGK plugs for TR2 Hello List: Trying to source some NGK plugs locally for my '2. Time to retire the old KLGs. I take it that the TR2 can use the same NGK BP6HS as the TR3As, despite the slight increase in engine performance of the 3A. Also, the NGK catalog also lists a BPR6HS as the standard recommended plug for the TR3A. Does anyone know if this 'new' number supersedes the old BP6HS? Should I still ask for an NGK BP6HS? Thanks for any help with this one. Angelo Graham ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From mark at bradakis.com Thu Mar 15 19:32:23 2012 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2012 19:32:23 -0600 Subject: [TR] Morgan Factory in Malvern - Advice Needed. No Triumph Content In-Reply-To: <001701cd02e7$59885420$0c98fc60$@rr.com> References: <5e5aa.13893089.3c933784@cs.com> <001701cd02e7$59885420$0c98fc60$@rr.com> Message-ID: <4F629827.7090601@bradakis.com> Randall wrote: >> You're not far from Wales. You could nip over the border and visit >> Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch. > But then he'd never be able to tell anyone where he'd been ! > I wasn't in Wales that long but did pick up some language tips. I believe the place mentioned above is pronounced "Greenfield" mjb. From rgt2 at sbcglobal.net Thu Mar 15 19:32:49 2012 From: rgt2 at sbcglobal.net (rod Trunnell) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2012 18:32:49 -0700 Subject: [TR] NGK plugs for TR2 In-Reply-To: <84B3A442740A4A6C9D4C1C6630BB86C7@bboffice> References: <4F627208.1060101@execulink.com> <84B3A442740A4A6C9D4C1C6630BB86C7@bboffice> Message-ID: <5597F580-7166-4390-9844-1F9F42182AF4@sbcglobal.net> The resistor plug helps with other things besides radios. After upgrading to LED lamps in the tail lights and brake lights using electronic flashers, with the engine running the turn signals were very erratic. Replaced the non-resistor plugs with resistor plugs and all went back to operating normally. Rod On Mar 15, 2012, at 6:12 PM, wrote: > Angelo, > Here is a chart that should help. The "R" is for resistor, for what little > I know this is to keep the spark plugs from causing static on your 60 year > old AM radio. I am sure there are other reasons as well, but what is > important is the size and the heat range are the same. > > http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/partnumberkey.pdf > > Bill > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Angelo Graham > Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2012 5:50 PM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] NGK plugs for TR2 > > Hello List: > Trying to source some NGK plugs locally for my '2. Time to retire the old > KLGs. > I take it that the TR2 can use the same NGK BP6HS as the TR3As, despite > the slight increase in engine performance of the 3A. Also, the NGK catalog > also lists a BPR6HS as the standard recommended plug for the TR3A. Does > anyone know if this 'new' number supersedes the old BP6HS? > Should I still ask for an NGK BP6HS? > Thanks for any help with this one. From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Thu Mar 15 19:34:39 2012 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (suhringtr36 at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2012 01:34:39 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] B & B clutch and Gunst T. O. Bearing in a TR6? In-Reply-To: <003101cd0159$9402eff0$bc08cfd0$@net> Message-ID: <1789973234.345646.1331861679143.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> I installed this set up last fall in my '70 TR6 and am very happy with it. Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3A ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dennis Culligan" To: triumphs at autox.team.net, 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2012 4:40:50 PM Subject: [TR] B & B clutch and Gunst T. O. Bearing in a TR6? Has anybody recently put a Borg & Beck clutch in their TR6 and used the Gunst throw out bearing? TRF catalogs "recommend" that the Gunst bearing only be used w/ clutches with flat fingers (ie Luk) but as per a brief discussion with Dave from TRF, Mr. Gunst's recommendation may be more political than practical. I already have a Gunst bearing and can get a REALLY good price on a B & B clutch kit - will this work OK? Dennis Culligan, Highland NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U ** From ElangTR4 at aol.com Thu Mar 15 19:37:56 2012 From: ElangTR4 at aol.com (ElangTR4 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2012 21:37:56 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Morgan Factory in Malvern - Advice Needed. Message-ID: <2ec8c.1c9eeebe.3c93f374@aol.com> Bill, If you end up going in September, head for the Goodwood Revival meeting, Sept. 14 -16. I haven't been there yet, but it's absolutely on my bucket list. This has to be the best vintage car event on the planet for a British car (or airplane) nut. _www.goodwood.co.uk/revival/_ (http://www.goodwood.co.uk/revival/) Eric L. 71 TR6 From mark at bradakis.com Thu Mar 15 21:17:37 2012 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2012 21:17:37 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [TR] Is this thing on?? Message-ID: <20120316031737.5C9052E068@bradakis.com> Those of you who get these messages in real time and not in digest mode should see some links below. One is to the Team.Net email archives. If you have a minute click on the link. Try a search. Tell us what happens. Well, not all at once, we don't need hundreds and hundreds of test results messages flooding our inboxes. mjb, who may have fixed one issue. From mlang99 at comcast.net Thu Mar 15 21:30:29 2012 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2012 20:30:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] Is this thing on?? In-Reply-To: <20120316031737.5C9052E068@bradakis.com> References: <20120316031737.5C9052E068@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <40d85a5d-9135-4f8a-a56f-8f02c51c7d7d@email.android.com> I tested the donate link all of the way through the PayPal process :-) M.Lang TS11544L Mark J Bradakis wrote: >Those of you who get these messages in real time and not in digest >mode should see some links below. One is to the Team.Net email >archives. If you have a minute click on the link. Try a search. >Tell us what happens. Well, not all at once, we don't need hundreds >and hundreds of test results messages flooding our inboxes. > >mjb, who may have fixed one issue. From wbeech at flash.net Thu Mar 15 21:45:23 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2012 22:45:23 -0500 Subject: [TR] Is this thing on?? In-Reply-To: <20120316031737.5C9052E068@bradakis.com> References: <20120316031737.5C9052E068@bradakis.com> Message-ID: 20 "Fluif" references back to Sept 1999. Very fast! Thanks Mark! Bill Beecher '58 TR3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" "Hello, my name is Bill and I own an old British car. Now...What are the next 11 steps?" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2012 10:18 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Is this thing on?? Those of you who get these messages in real time and not in digest mode should see some links below. One is to the Team.Net email archives. If you have a minute click on the link. Try a search. Tell us what happens. Well, not all at once, we don't need hundreds and hundreds of test results messages flooding our inboxes. mjb, who may have fixed one issue. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From mark at bradakis.com Thu Mar 15 21:52:37 2012 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2012 21:52:37 -0600 Subject: [TR] Is this thing on?? In-Reply-To: References: <20120316031737.5C9052E068@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <4F62B905.8000701@bradakis.com> wbeech at flash.net wrote: > 20 "Fluif" references back to Sept 1999. Very fast! > > Only 20??? Drat. Back to work. mjb. From mmarr at notwires.com Thu Mar 15 21:51:27 2012 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2012 22:51:27 -0500 Subject: [TR] Morgan Factory in Malvern - Advice Needed. No Triumph Content In-Reply-To: <1331808014.28751.YahooMailNeo@web29405.mail.ird.yahoo.com> References: <1331785825.26069.YahooMailRC@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <1331808014.28751.YahooMailNeo@web29405.mail.ird.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <5135E5640AF94C5583C38EC414B19BD9@PhiSchLSpare101> -------------------------------------------------- > > 3. We would like to do "guy" > things like the Imperial War Museum. Any other > suggestions? > The IWM has several branches. The "home" branch in west London is excellent, but one of my favorites is the branch at Duxford aerodrome (http://www.iwm.org.uk/visits/iwm-duxford). They have an excellent collection of WWII aircraft including the stunning US aircraft exhibit, in its own new hangar. The other place that is worth visiting (although not part of IWM) is Bletchley Park (http://www.bletchleypark.org.uk/), the home of the group that broke the Enigma codes and built some of the first computers. A fascinating place. Finally, Churchill's underground war rooms (http://www.iwm.org.uk/visits/churchill-war-rooms) is a good spot to visit, too. Mike From tr3 at roadrunner.com Thu Mar 15 21:58:15 2012 From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (Hdefer) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2012 20:58:15 -0700 Subject: [TR] Erratic Speedometer Message-ID: <21E63BE2-CF65-4019-BF4B-64658BE5848A@roadrunner.com> My TR3 speedometer whips at low speed, steadies out mid range and then becomes erratic around 60 mph. I replaced the cable, routed it exactly same way as the original , but the problem remained. I suspect it is still a cable problem. I read somewhere that lubricating with oil or other liquid is bad as the factory carbon lubricant may migrate with it upwards into the speedometer bearings which is harmful in the long run. Is the speedometer the more likely culprit? Has anyone serviced one? Could lack of damping with age be a problem? Hans, 61TR3A From mmarr at notwires.com Thu Mar 15 22:03:52 2012 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2012 23:03:52 -0500 Subject: [TR] Morgan Factory in Malvern - Advice Needed. No Triumph Content In-Reply-To: References: <5e5aa.13893089.3c933784@cs.com><001701cd02e7$59885420$0c98fc60$@rr.com> Message-ID: <702FE435FA054DBCB0D53E31DE0EA99D@PhiSchLSpare101> > And as long as yourr in Wales, do not miss Portmeirion -- fake Italian > village and great gardens.. Got to spend Thanksgiving there last year [not > that they knew it], and it is just fabulous. > I believe Portmeirion is where the classic TV show "The Prisoner" was filmed. Mike From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Thu Mar 15 22:10:55 2012 From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2012 00:10:55 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Erratic Speedometer Message-ID: <2ccc.47ae2b89.3c94174f@aol.com> Hi Hans; I can't offer a solution, but I can say that some TR3 speedometers are moderately accurate, whilst most wave all over the place and offer no indication of actual speed. Between my dad and I, we've owned 5 sidescreen TR's and a total of 18 Triumphs. The speedometers of sidescreen TR's are by far the worst, and I no longer look at that instrument. I had one early TR3 where the needle would spin completely around. The faster I drove, the faster is spun, to the point where it spun so fast (propeller-like) that I could not see it. In reverse, it spun backwards. My suggestion is to just drive the car and not worry about it. Sorry to be a spoilsport. Tim In a message dated 16/03/2012 12:02:34 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, tr3 at roadrunner.com writes: My TR3 speedometer whips at low speed, steadies out mid range and then becomes erratic around 60 mph. I replaced the cable, routed it exactly same way as the original , but the problem remained. I suspect it is still a cable problem. I read somewhere that lubricating with oil or other liquid is bad as the factory carbon lubricant may migrate with it upwards into the speedometer bearings which is harmful in the long run. Is the speedometer the more likely culprit? Has anyone serviced one? Could lack of damping with age be a problem? Hans, 61TR3A ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/kingscreektrees at aol.com From spitlist at cox.net Fri Mar 16 00:23:28 2012 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2012 23:23:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] Is this thing on?? In-Reply-To: References: <20120316031737.5C9052E068@bradakis.com> Message-ID: Really, Bill? Really? -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of wbeech at flash.net Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2012 8:45 PM To: 'Mark J Bradakis'; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Is this thing on?? 20 "Fluif" references back to Sept 1999. Very fast! Thanks Mark! Bill Beecher '58 TR3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" "Hello, my name is Bill and I own an old British car. Now...What are the next 11 steps?" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2012 10:18 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Is this thing on?? Those of you who get these messages in real time and not in digest mode should see some links below. One is to the Team.Net email archives. If you have a minute click on the link. Try a search. Tell us what happens. Well, not all at once, we don't need hundreds and hundreds of test results messages flooding our inboxes. mjb, who may have fixed one issue. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Mar 16 00:47:50 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2012 23:47:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] Erratic Speedometer In-Reply-To: <21E63BE2-CF65-4019-BF4B-64658BE5848A@roadrunner.com> References: <21E63BE2-CF65-4019-BF4B-64658BE5848A@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: <02cb01cd0340$b52937a0$0301a8c0@randall> > Is the speedometer the more likely culprit? Has anyone serviced one? > Could lack of damping with age be a problem? I went through this relatively recently with the original speedo from TS13571L. In my case, the problem turned out to be mostly the odometer and trip meter mechanisms. There two gear drives from the input to eccentrics that each operate ratchet mechanisms; which turn the shafts that all of the dials ride on. Each individual dial has a slip clutch arrangement to its shaft, which normally slips all the time. I believe what was happening was that the entire shaft & clutch arrangement was so stiff that when each ratchet started to move it's dial shaft, the speedometer cable would wind up before it could supply enough force to move the shaft, which let the speedometer needle drop down. Then when the ratchet stopped moving, the cable would unwind and kick the speedometer needle higher. Some of the experiments I tried: 1) Hook the tachometer to the speedometer cable. No waver seems to indicate the cable is OK. 2) Hook the speedometer to the tach cable. It still wavered, but not as much (due to the shorter cable). 3) Disassemble the speedometer enough to remove the links that operate the ratchets, then try again. No waver, indicating the odometer &/or the trip meter was the problem. It took me several tries; just cleaning and lubricating all the surfaces was not enough. I had to mechanically polish all of the slip clutch surfaces, which had apparently become corroded and rough from years of disuse. I didn't take as many pictures as I should have, but here is a shot showing the tripmeter components after cleaning but before polishing: http://goo.gl/fxmS8 The shaft has a groove (which unfortunately doesn't show in the photo) which engages with the tab inside each brass disc. So the brass discs turn with the shaft, and slip against the raised center of the dials (which are held from turning by the rectangular springs visible inside the frame). Those are the odometer dials piled in the background (which work the same way). I gave all the slip surfaces a light coat of auto body polishing compound and assembled the dials & clutches onto the shaft outside of the normal frame. Then I mounted the shaft in my cordless drill and held the dials from turning with my fingers, while the drill spun the shaft. After a minute or so of that, I took it all back apart, cleaned away all of the (now dirty) polishing compound, lubricated with a very light coat of synthetic brake caliper grease and reassembled back into the original frames. I was also careful to assemble the two gear drives 180 degrees out of phase, so that only one dial shaft was moving at a time. -- Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Mar 16 00:57:58 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2012 23:57:58 -0700 Subject: [TR] Is this thing on?? In-Reply-To: References: <20120316031737.5C9052E068@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <02cc01cd0342$1efacc10$0301a8c0@randall> > Really, Bill? Really? 20 does seem awfully low ... -- Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Mar 16 01:06:49 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2012 00:06:49 -0700 Subject: [TR] Calfornia bill to exempt 76-80 cars from biannual smog Message-ID: <02cd01cd0343$5ca03db0$0301a8c0@randall> Apologies to those not located in CA, but I feel this is kind of important to those who are: There is a bill before the CA senate to increase the cutoff year for biannual smog inspection from its current 1976 to 1980. If you are in favor, you should let our legislators know. Details (including contact info) at http://goo.gl/pPb2O -- Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Mar 16 01:38:42 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2012 00:38:42 -0700 Subject: [TR] Figure 8 Gaskets In-Reply-To: <690933664.93661.1331846922156.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <5e5aa.13893089.3c933784@cs.com> <690933664.93661.1331846922156.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <02d201cd0347$d016f820$0301a8c0@randall> > One thing I don't understand. When I pulled the head to do > my engine rebuild, cylinders one and two were flush with the > block, that is not standing proud like the others. > How can that be? The figure 8 gaskets are steel and not > crushable, right? Anything will crush, if you get enough force on it. But the steel fig-8 gaskets have a plastic coating that can crush easier than the steel; and I actually prefer the copper fig-8 gaskets (which also crush more easily). Might also be that the gasket isn't "crushed" but the liners are stuck in the block so badly that they are holding the gasket in compression. Or it may be that those two liners are slightly short for whatever reason. I found a set once (made in India as I recall) where they were all about .003" shorter than they should have been. Or the seats in the block may be too low. I've had two TR motors in a row now where the block deck is not parallel to the liner seats, so the protrusion is different depending on which side you measure. -- Randall From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk Fri Mar 16 03:49:30 2012 From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2012 09:49:30 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] Morgan Factory in Malvern - Advice Needed. No Triumph Content In-Reply-To: <3c138.470fd53d.3c93b383@cs.com> References: <3c138.470fd53d.3c93b383@cs.com> Message-ID: <1331891370.17137.YahooMailNeo@web29403.mail.ird.yahoo.com> The trick being learning how to pronounce the double "L." Easy . Tongue against top front teeth as if to say the TH of thick - and having got your th coming out put in an L as in lick. Result is that LLandogo comes out as THLandogo. Now then, the phonetic probounciation of CYMRU - and there is Triumph content here. A Welshman I know owns two TR6's :) John http://standard-triumph-books.co.uk >________________________________ > From: "Dave1massey at cs.com" >To: triumphs at autox.team.net >Sent: Thursday, 15 March 2012, 21:05 >Subject: Re: [TR] Morgan Factory in Malvern - Advice Needed. No Triumph Content > >In a message dated 3/15/2012 3:36:34 PM Central Daylight Time, >flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk writes: >> I'm told (on reliable authority) that the local inhabitants will happily >> give >> visitors pronounciation lessons. >> >The trick being learning how to pronounce the double "L." > >** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk From fishplate at charter.net Fri Mar 16 06:49:24 2012 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2012 08:49:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] Is this thing on?? In-Reply-To: <4F62B905.8000701@bradakis.com> References: <20120316031737.5C9052E068@bradakis.com> <4F62B905.8000701@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <4F6336D4.6030707@charter.net> On 3/15/2012 11:52 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote: > wbeech at flash.net wrote: >> 20 "Fluif" references back to Sept 1999. Very fast! >> >> > Only 20??? 21 now... From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Mar 16 07:44:33 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2012 09:44:33 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Morgan Factory in Malvern - Advice Needed. No Triumph Content Message-ID: <29015.4b54de4b.3c949dc1@cs.com> In a message dated 3/15/2012 4:06:54 PM Central Daylight Time, triosan at gmail.com writes: > And as long as yourr in Wales, do not miss Portmeirion -- fake Italian > village and great gardens.. Got to spend Thanksgiving there last year [not > that they knew it], and it is just fabulous. > Or Llangollyn and the Dr. Who museum therein. I've only visited the north part which is beautifully rugged and mountainous although a bit rainy. But there are more old castles per capita than any other country. Dave From trmarty at hotmail.com Fri Mar 16 08:10:50 2012 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2012 10:10:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] alternative seats for TR6 :Now TR7/8? In-Reply-To: <300E4FE2A2FC894EB5791B33C38DA3B6071B85@CLYEXMB01P.centene.com> References: , <300E4FE2A2FC894EB5791B33C38DA3B6071B85@CLYEXMB01P.centene.com> Message-ID: As a side subject. Anybody found seats that would fit in a TR7/8? I tried TR6 seats and the base was too high, did not leave enough clearance between legs and steering wheel so I am assuming Miata seats would have the same issue. Marty From wbeech at flash.net Fri Mar 16 08:13:03 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2012 09:13:03 -0500 Subject: [TR] Is this thing on?? In-Reply-To: <4F62B905.8000701@bradakis.com> References: <20120316031737.5C9052E068@bradakis.com> <4F62B905.8000701@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <37F4C9A9D2874BFE8BE99586439EF04C@bboffice> Mark, Checked this morning, now 841 for "Fluif" and 7602 for "Clutch". By George, you've got it! Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2012 10:53 PM To: Triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] Is this thing on?? wbeech at flash.net wrote: > 20 "Fluif" references back to Sept 1999. Very fast! > > Only 20??? Drat. Back to work. mjb. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From wbeech at flash.net Fri Mar 16 08:22:41 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2012 09:22:41 -0500 Subject: [TR] Erratic Speedometer In-Reply-To: <21E63BE2-CF65-4019-BF4B-64658BE5848A@roadrunner.com> References: <21E63BE2-CF65-4019-BF4B-64658BE5848A@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: <31FCDE2E84AB4EAF92910588174124C6@bboffice> Send it off and have it serviced, there are a few around the country that are List Approved. I like West Valley Instruments in California but I have also heard good things about Nissonger & Momo. Yes, if you have too much lubricant in the cable is can get up into the head. I started with new cables and did not add any extra lube to them before installation. Of course, if you have a kink in your cable routing this can create havoc with the speedo reading too. If you have a new cable, properly routed, what makes you think it is the problem? For a non-O/D TR3, you should see 3,000rpm=60mph I have about 3500 miles on my re-built speedo, rock solid and accurate. Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Hdefer Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2012 10:58 PM To: Triumph List Subject: [TR] Erratic Speedometer My TR3 speedometer whips at low speed, steadies out mid range and then becomes erratic around 60 mph. I replaced the cable, routed it exactly same way as the original , but the problem remained. I suspect it is still a cable problem. I read somewhere that lubricating with oil or other liquid is bad as the factory carbon lubricant may migrate with it upwards into the speedometer bearings which is harmful in the long run. Is the speedometer the more likely culprit? Has anyone serviced one? Could lack of damping with age be a problem? Hans, 61TR3A ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From tjwakeman at gmail.com Fri Mar 16 08:35:17 2012 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2012 07:35:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] Calfornia bill to exempt 76-80 cars from biannual smog In-Reply-To: <02cd01cd0343$5ca03db0$0301a8c0@randall> References: <02cd01cd0343$5ca03db0$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <4F634FA5.9070105@gmail.com> On 3/16/12 12:06 AM, Randall wrote: > There is a bill before the CA senate to increase the cutoff year for > biannual smog inspection from its current 1976 to 1980. Biannual or semi annual? Biannual seems awfully frequent to me. But what do I know, I've never owned a car new enough to need SMOG testing. Teriann From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Mar 16 08:46:54 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2012 10:46:54 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Morgan Factory in Malvern - Advice Needed. No Triumph Content Message-ID: <2b3d2.510b1373.3c94ac5d@cs.com> In a message dated 3/15/2012 8:36:49 PM Central Daylight Time, mark at bradakis.com writes: > Randall wrote: > >>You're not far from Wales. You could nip over the border and visit > >>Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch. > >But then he'd never be able to tell anyone where he'd been ! > > > > I wasn't in Wales that long but did pick up some language tips. > I believe the place mentioned above is pronounced "Greenfield" > The name was penned by an 18th century with the specific purpose of being the longest city name. Successfully. I have the translation here if anyone is interested. Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Mar 16 09:09:47 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2012 11:09:47 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Morgan Factory in Malvern - Advice Needed. No Triumph Content Message-ID: <2c24e.4176ac93.3c94b1bb@cs.com> So, when you put your tongue against the front teeth and blow air past it do you favour the right side or the left? ;-) And the trick to Cymry (kum ree) is to remember that "u" is always pronounced as "ee" in English. "Y," on the other hand has about a dozen rules governing it's pronunciation, some of which are based on where it falls within the word. Then there are the 157 rules about noun mutations... Dave In a message dated 3/16/2012 4:49:32 AM Central Daylight Time, flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk writes: > The trick being learning how to pronounce the double "L." > > Easy . Tongue against top front teeth as if to say the TH of thick - and > having got your th coming out put in an L as in lick. Result is that > LLandogo comes out as THLandogo. Now then, the phonetic probounciation of CYMRU - > and there is Triumph content here. A Welshman I know owns two TR6's :) From fogbro1 at comcast.net Fri Mar 16 09:12:55 2012 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2012 15:12:55 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Oil Dispensing Gun In-Reply-To: <1794209445.137623.1331910342910.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <716475976.138081.1331910775669.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> List, I've tired of loading a standard grease gun with oil only to have it leak more oil than it delivers to a grease fitting. Where can I find an oil dispensing gun with a standard grease fitting at a reasonable price, like under $30, if such a thing exists. McMaster-Carr has them at $68 and up. Is that the going price? As suggested in previous discussions on this List, I've tried the local boat dealer, only to be told that such a thing does not exist. TIA, Ed Woods From n197tr4 at cs.com Fri Mar 16 09:16:48 2012 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2012 11:16:48 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Fwd: [Fot] alternative seats for TR6 :Now TR7/8? In-Reply-To: References: , <300E4FE2A2FC894EB5791B33C38DA3B6071B85@CLYEXMB01P.centene.com> Message-ID: <8CED19EF123CA96-1888-162E@webmail-d162.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: marty sukey To: FOT ; Triumph List Sent: Fri, Mar 16, 2012 9:11 am Subject: [Fot] alternative seats for TR6 :Now TR7/8? As a side subject. Anybody found seats that would fit in a TR7/8? I tried TR6 seats and the base was too high, did not leave enough clearance between legs and steering wheel so I am assuming Miata seats would have the same issue. Marty _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Mar 16 09:17:09 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2012 08:17:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] Calfornia bill to exempt 76-80 cars from biannual smog In-Reply-To: <4F634FA5.9070105@gmail.com> References: <02cd01cd0343$5ca03db0$0301a8c0@randall> <4F634FA5.9070105@gmail.com> Message-ID: <032301cd0387$db7e2cc0$0301a8c0@randall> > Biannual or semi annual? Biannual seems awfully frequent to me. Actually, both are wrong. Semi-annual also means twice a year according to Merriam and Oxford http://goo.gl/djBI2 . I meant biennial http://goo.gl/Tk3vf > But what do I know, I've never owned a car new enough to need SMOG testing. Even my 59 TR3A had to be tested at one time. I actually had to go back a second time, as they said it was "too clean" the first time! Apparently the test system thought I had an exhaust leak sucking clean air into the exhaust. But I just re-tuned it "by the book", and it passed with flying colors (according to the state standards for that year, of course). -- Randall From wbeech at flash.net Fri Mar 16 09:27:02 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2012 10:27:02 -0500 Subject: [TR] Oil Dispensing Gun In-Reply-To: <716475976.138081.1331910775669.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1794209445.137623.1331910342910.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <716475976.138081.1331910775669.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <3A342DBF3C934A6AA95005604C8351D1@bboffice> NAPA has a gun that does that but I don't know if it has a grease fitting on the end of it, about $20. B -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of fogbro1 at comcast.net Sent: Friday, March 16, 2012 10:13 AM To: triumph list Subject: [TR] Oil Dispensing Gun List, I've tired of loading a standard grease gun with oil only to have it leak more oil than it delivers to a grease fitting. Where can I find an oil dispensing gun with a standard grease fitting at a reasonable price, like under $30, if such a thing exists. McMaster-Carr has them at $68 and up. Is that the going price? As suggested in previous discussions on this List, I've tried the local boat dealer, only to be told that such a thing does not exist. TIA, Ed Woods ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From fitzgibbon3 at comcast.net Fri Mar 16 09:56:26 2012 From: fitzgibbon3 at comcast.net (Tom & Marge FitzGibbon) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2012 15:56:26 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Oil Dispensing Gun In-Reply-To: <716475976.138081.1331910775669.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1321174807.152660.1331913386820.JavaMail.root@sz0180a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Ed, I bought what you are describing on ebay a few years ago and it worked like a charm and was inexpensive. This link is similar, but mine came with a grease fitting on the end. I think mine also came with a flexible hose I can use in place of the rigid tube on the end, but I wouldn't swear to it. Maybe this will even allow you to unscrew the tube at the knurled ring in the photo and add your own flexible hose from a grease gun . http://www.ebay.com/itm/High-Pressure-Oil-Can-Gun-Pump-Spout-New-Tools-Grease-/120863445792?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c2405d320#ht_2933wt_903 Tom FitzGibbon Scotch Plains, NJ 1967 Spitfire Mk 2 1973 Mustang convertible (project car) ----- Original Message ----- From: fogbro1 at comcast.net To: "triumph list" Sent: Friday, March 16, 2012 11:12:55 AM Subject: [TR] Oil Dispensing Gun List, I've tired of loading a standard grease gun with oil only to have it leak more oil than it delivers to a grease fitting. Where can I find an oil dispensing gun with a standard grease fitting at a reasonable price, like under $30, if such a thing exists. McMaster-Carr has them at $68 and up. Is that the going price? As suggested in previous discussions on this List, I've tried the local boat dealer, only to be told that such a thing does not exist. TIA, Ed Woods ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fitzgibbon3 at comcast.net From JPayne at ThorCon.net Fri Mar 16 10:09:48 2012 From: JPayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2012 16:09:48 +0000 Subject: [TR] Oil Dispensing Gun In-Reply-To: <1321174807.152660.1331913386820.JavaMail.root@sz0180a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <716475976.138081.1331910775669.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <1321174807.152660.1331913386820.JavaMail.root@sz0180a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <5891B364A7C3594B9466304B59E65B1C074D317A@ex1mbx01.onthenetoffice.com> I have a bunch of these, they all leak. Jonas Payne PBR Cell: (702) 358-5084 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom & Marge FitzGibbon Sent: Friday, March 16, 2012 8:56 AM To: fogbro1 at comcast.net Cc: triumph list Subject: Re: [TR] Oil Dispensing Gun Ed, I bought what you are describing on ebay a few years ago and it worked like a charm and was inexpensive. This link is similar, but mine came with a grease fitting on the end. I think mine also came with a flexible hose I can use in place of the rigid tube on the end, but I wouldn't swear to it. Maybe this will even allow you to unscrew the tube at the knurled ring in the photo and add your own flexible hose from a grease gun . http://www.ebay.com/itm/High-Pressure-Oil-Can-Gun-Pump-Spout-New-Tools-Grease -/120863445792?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c2405d320#ht_2933wt_903 Tom FitzGibbon Scotch Plains, NJ 1967 Spitfire Mk 2 1973 Mustang convertible (project car) ----- Original Message ----- From: fogbro1 at comcast.net To: "triumph list" Sent: Friday, March 16, 2012 11:12:55 AM Subject: [TR] Oil Dispensing Gun List, I've tired of loading a standard grease gun with oil only to have it leak more oil than it delivers to a grease fitting. Where can I find an oil dispensing gun with a standard grease fitting at a reasonable price, like under $30, if such a thing exists. McMaster-Carr has them at $68 and up. Is that the going price? As suggested in previous discussions on this List, I've tried the local boat dealer, only to be told that such a thing does not exist. TIA, Ed Woods ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fitzgibbon3 at comcast.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jpayne at thorcon.net From wbeech at flash.net Fri Mar 16 10:26:07 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2012 11:26:07 -0500 Subject: [TR] Oil Dispensing Gun In-Reply-To: <1321174807.152660.1331913386820.JavaMail.root@sz0180a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1321174807.152660.1331913386820.JavaMail.root@sz0180a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Do you hand pump it or does it connect to an air line? Do you suppose it will handle gear lube? Sent from mobile Bill On Mar 16, 2012, at 10:56 AM, Tom & Marge FitzGibbon wrote: > Ed, > > > I bought what you are describing on ebay a few years ago and it worked like a charm and was inexpensive. This link is similar, but mine came with a grease fitting on the end. I think mine also came with a flexible hose I can use in place of the rigid tube on the end, but I wouldn't swear to it. Maybe this will even allow you to unscrew the tube at the knurled ring in the photo and add your own flexible hose from a grease gun . http://www.ebay.com/itm/High-Pressure-Oil-Can-Gun-Pump-Spout-New-Tools-Grease -/120863445792?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c2405d320#ht_2933wt_903 > > > Tom FitzGibbon > Scotch Plains, NJ > > > 1967 Spitfire Mk 2 > 1973 Mustang convertible (project car) > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: fogbro1 at comcast.net > To: "triumph list" > Sent: Friday, March 16, 2012 11:12:55 AM > Subject: [TR] Oil Dispensing Gun > > List, > > > > I've tired of loading a standard grease gun with oil only to have it leak more oil than it delivers to a grease fitting. Where can I find an oil dispensing gun with a standard grease fitting at a reasonable price, like under $30, if such a thing exists. McMaster-Carr has them at $68 and up. Is that the going price? As suggested in previous discussions on this List, I've tried the local boat dealer, only to be told that such a thing does not exist. > > > > TIA, > > > > Ed Woods > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fitzgibbon3 at comcast.net > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Mar 16 10:36:58 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2012 09:36:58 -0700 Subject: [TR] Oil Dispensing Gun In-Reply-To: <3A342DBF3C934A6AA95005604C8351D1@bboffice> References: <1794209445.137623.1331910342910.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net><716475976.138081.1331910775669.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <3A342DBF3C934A6AA95005604C8351D1@bboffice> Message-ID: <035401cd0393$021bbae0$0301a8c0@randall> > I've tried the local boat dealer, only to be told that such a > thing does not > exist. Mine said much the same thing. And yet ... http://goo.gl/dYhxT Although it is designed for grease, mine leaks very little (almost none) when used with gear oil in the matching tube. Mercury also sells a special "water resistant, copper compatible" gear oil in the tube that should work well in TR trunnions. Unfortunately, I sold the Sports 6 before being able to give a report on how well it actually worked. I still use grease in the TR3 trunnions (as recommended by the factory). -- Randall From pat.l at comcast.net Fri Mar 16 10:41:21 2012 From: pat.l at comcast.net (Pat Ledford) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2012 12:41:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] alternative seats for TR6 :Now TR7/8? In-Reply-To: References: , <300E4FE2A2FC894EB5791B33C38DA3B6071B85@CLYEXMB01P.centene.com> Message-ID: <4F636D31.2060500@comcast.net> Paul Rego was working on putting a set of Miata in his TR8. See thebritishcar.com forum On 3/16/2012 10:10 AM, marty sukey wrote: > As a side subject. Anybody found seats that would fit in a TR7/8? I tried TR6 > seats and the base was too high, did not leave enough clearance between legs > and steering wheel so I am assuming Miata seats would have the same issue. > > Marty > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pat.l at comcast.net From allenhess at mgcarclub.com Fri Mar 16 10:51:26 2012 From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2012 12:51:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] Eratic Speedometer In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: The cable spins a magnetic bar which spins a shallow metal cup (no physical connection) to which the needle is attached. I discovered that the magnet touched the edge of the cup at one point and that caused the needle to jump. Also noted that the bearing point of the cup and needle axle was worn which didn't help. The cup is light weight metal and can be bent enough to eliminate the contact. Allen On Mar 16, 2012, at 12:24 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > Subject: [TR] Erratic Speedometer > > My TR3 speedometer whips at low speed, steadies out mid range and > then > becomes erratic around 60 mph. I replaced the cable, routed it > exactly same > way as the original , but the problem remained. I suspect it is > still a > cable problem. > I read somewhere that lubricating with oil or other liquid is bad as > the > factory carbon lubricant may migrate with it upwards into the > speedometer > bearings which is harmful in the long run. > Is the speedometer the more likely culprit? Has anyone serviced one? > Could lack of damping with age be a problem? > > Hans, 61TR3A From fitzgibbon3 at comcast.net Fri Mar 16 10:53:46 2012 From: fitzgibbon3 at comcast.net (Tom & Marge FitzGibbon) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2012 16:53:46 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Oil Dispensing Gun In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1289181150.154289.1331916826549.JavaMail.root@sz0180a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Bill, Mine is manual (you have to pump it) and it works with Valvoline 75w-90 gear oil. As someone else noted, it leaks a bot, but nowhere near as badly as putting oil in a grease gun. I tried that and still have the garage floor stains to prove it. As I said, though, what I have is similar to what is on ebay today, I'm not sure if there are small differences that would affect performance. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Wbeech" To: "Tom & Marge FitzGibbon" Cc: fogbro1 at comcast.net, "triumph list" Sent: Friday, March 16, 2012 12:26:07 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Oil Dispensing Gun Do you hand pump it or does it connect to an air line? Do you suppose it will handle gear lube? Sent from mobile Bill On Mar 16, 2012, at 10:56 AM, Tom & Marge FitzGibbon wrote: > Ed, > > > I bought what you are describing on ebay a few years ago and it worked like a charm and was inexpensive. This link is similar, but mine came with a grease fitting on the end. I think mine also came with a flexible hose I can use in place of the rigid tube on the end, but I wouldn't swear to it. Maybe this will even allow you to unscrew the tube at the knurled ring in the photo and add your own flexible hose from a grease gun . http://www.ebay.com/itm/High-Pressure-Oil-Can-Gun-Pump-Spout-New-Tools-Grease-/120863445792?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c2405d320#ht_2933wt_903 > > > Tom FitzGibbon > Scotch Plains, NJ > > > 1967 Spitfire Mk 2 > 1973 Mustang convertible (project car) > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: fogbro1 at comcast.net > To: "triumph list" > Sent: Friday, March 16, 2012 11:12:55 AM > Subject: [TR] Oil Dispensing Gun > > List, > > > > I've tired of loading a standard grease gun with oil only to have it leak more oil than it delivers to a grease fitting. Where can I find an oil dispensing gun with a standard grease fitting at a reasonable price, like under $30, if such a thing exists. McMaster-Carr has them at $68 and up. Is that the going price? As suggested in previous discussions on this List, I've tried the local boat dealer, only to be told that such a thing does not exist. > > > > TIA, > > > > Ed Woods > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fitzgibbon3 at comcast.net > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From pethier at comcast.net Fri Mar 16 11:04:00 2012 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2012 17:04:00 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] alternative seats for TR6 :Now TR7/8? In-Reply-To: <4F636D31.2060500@comcast.net> Message-ID: <889691270.340575.1331917440902.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Yup, you can get Miata seats from Miata owners putting Lotus Elise seats in their Miatas. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://www.mnautox.com ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Pat Ledford" > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Friday, March 16, 2012 11:41:21 AM > Subject: Re: [TR] alternative seats for TR6 :Now TR7/8? > Paul Rego was working on putting a set of Miata in his TR8. See > thebritishcar.com forum From rpeglow at optonline.net Fri Mar 16 11:20:28 2012 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2012 13:20:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] Is this thing on?? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Archives are on! I found headlight housings can be cleaned by rinsing with distilled water or dishwasher anti-spot liquid. Thank you. Regards, Bob From lherault at bu.edu Fri Mar 16 11:31:42 2012 From: lherault at bu.edu (Ron L'Herault) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2012 13:31:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] oil gun Message-ID: <013301cd039a$a7854b70$f68fe250$@bu.edu> I'm pretty sure this came up quite a few years ago. ISTR that one can get an oil gun at marine supply stores. They are for servicing outboard engines. Ron L From spook01 at comcast.net Fri Mar 16 11:52:47 2012 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2012 12:52:47 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Upholstery?= Message-ID: Who has the best seat kit for the TR4? TRF? Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- To: "Tom & Marge FitzGibbon" Cc: "triumph list" Subject: [TR] Oil Dispensing Gun From darrellw360 at mac.com Fri Mar 16 12:01:16 2012 From: darrellw360 at mac.com (Darrell Walker) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2012 11:01:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] Upholstery In-Reply-To: <20120316175724.3A89F2D0A38@autox.team.net> References: <20120316175724.3A89F2D0A38@autox.team.net> Message-ID: On Mar 16, 2012, at 10:52 AM, spook01 at comcast.net wrote: > Who has the best seat kit for the TR4? TRF? I don't know about best, but I'm very happy with the kit I got from them for my TR4A (leather). -- Darrell Walker 66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L 81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206 Vancouver, WA, USA From wbeech at flash.net Fri Mar 16 12:23:20 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2012 13:23:20 -0500 Subject: [TR] Upholstery In-Reply-To: <20120316175737.583162D0A5B@autox.team.net> References: <20120316175737.583162D0A5B@autox.team.net> Message-ID: I got my leather TR3 seat cover kit from TRF, very satisfied. Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of spook01 at comcast.net Sent: Friday, March 16, 2012 12:53 PM Cc: triumph list Subject: [TR] Upholstery Who has the best seat kit for the TR4? TRF? Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- To: "Tom & Marge FitzGibbon" Cc: "triumph list" Subject: [TR] Oil Dispensing Gun ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From edwd at ti.com Fri Mar 16 12:27:35 2012 From: edwd at ti.com (Fisher, Ed) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2012 18:27:35 +0000 Subject: [TR] garage floor stains Message-ID: <67A276399E247245AC2050FC103C4E8A3E2923EF@DLEE01.ent.ti.com> Not that anyone asked, but I thought I would share. I'm the king of unsolicited opinions according to my SO. Anyway, I found out that grinding the OilDry into the concrete with my boot, sweeping it back into a pile and then grinding some more removes all of the oil stains from untreated concrete. I didn't know this for years so I thought perhaps it worth sharing. It has GREATLY reduced my consumption of OilDry as well. Thank goodness for this discovery, since I have never mastered not making a mess to begin with. BTW, the diesel oil in my tractor comes up as well, and that stuff is foul. HTH, Ed Fisher Dallas, Tx From keithstewart at execulink.com Fri Mar 16 13:00:44 2012 From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2012 15:00:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] Upholstery In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: > Tom asked > > Who has the best seat kit for the TR4? TRF? Do you mean just the upholstery or complete seat kits? If more than upholstery, is it an early TR4 requiring springs and padding or a later one requiring foam and supports? My TR3 and TR4 seat springs from TRF are great. The horsehair padding support for them is just like original. The fabric sets I have purchased from them for the TR3, TR4 and Spitfire have been fine (both leather and vinyl). I think for any of us to state who has the best ones, you would have had to get material from more than one supplier and usually that is so far back when it was last done that any differences may well be from the time period more than the supplier. Just my $0.02 Keith R. Stewart 75 Camden Road London, Ontario N5X 2K2 Home: (519) 660-1916 E-Mail: keithstewart at execulink.com From fishplate at charter.net Fri Mar 16 14:16:26 2012 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2012 16:16:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] Oil Dispensing Gun In-Reply-To: <1321174807.152660.1331913386820.JavaMail.root@sz0180a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1321174807.152660.1331913386820.JavaMail.root@sz0180a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <4F639F9A.1090808@charter.net> On 3/16/2012 11:56 AM, Tom & Marge FitzGibbon wrote: > I bought what you are describing on ebay a few years ago and it worked like a charm and was inexpensive. This link is similar, but mine came with a grease fitting on the end. I think mine also came with a flexible hose I can use in place of the rigid tube on the end, but I wouldn't swear to it. Maybe this will even allow you to unscrew the tube at the knurled ring in the photo and add your own flexible hose from a grease gun .http://www.ebay.com/itm/High-Pressure-Oil-Can-Gun-Pump-Spout-New-Tools-Grease-/120863445792?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c2405d320#ht_2933wt_903 I went that route, using the oil can from Harbor Freight. Worked great for about two minutes, then the trigger folded up. Straightened it out, and now the can pumps nothing. You can get that can regularly on sale at HF for $3 or $4, but I'm going to my boat dealer next time my trunnions need oiling. Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. From fishplate at charter.net Fri Mar 16 14:23:51 2012 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2012 16:23:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] Throwout bearing Message-ID: <4F63A157.3060806@charter.net> Shipwright's disease...short version, I went to repair an oil leak in the transmission. Now I've got the clutch out, and might as well replace it. The old clutch, with stock components that may have traveled 90,000 successful miles, still works fine but is nearing the end of the wear limit. I read much discussion about the advantages and shortcomings of Koyo, Gunst, etc., and there are hints that the stock RHP bearing wasn't up to snuff. All those references to RHP seem to be more than 5 or 6 years old, now. I see no need to reinvent a system that has been working just fine so far, so my preference is to go back stock, and avoid the kludges of additional springs and the like that other systems need. But, if there's still a quality problem with the RHP bearing, I'd have to pull the transmission again. Anyone had any ~recent~ experience with stock TO bearings? Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. From tr6.guy at verizon.net Fri Mar 16 14:57:22 2012 From: tr6.guy at verizon.net (Gary Klein) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2012 16:57:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] Oil Dispensing Gun Message-ID: Oil? Why would you still want to use oil? I stopped using oil in the trunnions when I rebuilt the front end of my 6 and migrated to a modern, synthetic grease. 10 years later, no problems and an oil-free floor! Gary '80 TR8 w/ A/C '75 TR6 Severn, MD Digest > Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2012 15:12:55 +0000 (UTC) > From: fogbro1 at comcast.net > .To: triumph list < triumphs at autox.team.net> > Subject: [TR] Oil Dispensing Gun > Message-ID: < 716475976.138081.1331910775669.JavaMail.root at sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.com cast.net> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > List, > > I've tired of loading a standard grease gun with oil only to have it leak more oil than it delivers to a grease fitting. Where can I find an > oil dispensing gun with a standard grease fitting at a reasonable price, like under $30, if such a thing exists. McMaster-Carr has them > at $68 and up. Is that the going price? As suggested in previous discussions on this List, I've tried the local boat dealer, only to be > told that such a thing does not exist. > > TIA, > > Ed Woods From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Mar 16 15:33:36 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2012 14:33:36 -0700 Subject: [TR] Throwout bearing In-Reply-To: <4F63A157.3060806@charter.net> References: <4F63A157.3060806@charter.net> Message-ID: <015501cd03bc$72dca450$5895ecf0$@rr.com> > The old clutch, with stock components that may have traveled 90,000 > successful miles, still works fine but is nearing the end of the wear > limit. Just a suggestion, Jeff, why not just replace the components that are near their wear limit (generally just the friction part of the friction plate) and leave the rest alone? Why install unknown components in the place of "known good" ones? I've been following that philosophy for many years now, and hundreds of thousands of miles. The only TOB failure I have _ever_ had was when I mistakenly installed the wrong one (a no-name bearing from a junkyard gearbox), rather than the one that came out of the car. And even then it went over 50,000 miles before there was a problem. In addition to TOB problems, there have also been problems reported with new pressure plates, and new friction plates. Several people in the local clubs have had relatively new friction plates fail entirely, necessitating a ride home on a flatbed. There is also a good article at http://goo.gl/zCqsx that outlines some of the pressure plate problems. Worth a read. PS, although I drive a TR3 every day (when it doesn't rain), it has a TR6 clutch & gearbox in it. -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Mar 16 15:39:22 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2012 14:39:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] garage floor stains In-Reply-To: <67A276399E247245AC2050FC103C4E8A3E2923EF@DLEE01.ent.ti.com> References: <67A276399E247245AC2050FC103C4E8A3E2923EF@DLEE01.ent.ti.com> Message-ID: <015601cd03bd$40b4deb0$c21e9c10$@rr.com> > Anyway, I found out that grinding > the OilDry into the concrete with my boot, sweeping it back into a pile > and > then grinding some more removes all of the oil stains from untreated > concrete. FWIW, I do the same thing. IMO it doesn't necessarily remove _all_ the stain, but does an excellent job of hiding whatever remains. Also FWIW, conventional kitty litter (the clay kind) from the local grocery store seems to work just as well for me as Oil Dry. Cheaper and easier to find at 10PM on a Sunday. -- Randall From ptegler at verizon.net Fri Mar 16 16:36:24 2012 From: ptegler at verizon.net (ptegler) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2012 18:36:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] Oil Dispensing Gun References: Message-ID: <8AF25CE9E026468ABAB71D280B11A313@dragonlairii> The point of the oil is to allow the small swarf created by the thread motion to sink to the bottom rather than stay in suspension and add to the mix as a grinding agent. Steel to bronze wear WILL create particulate regardless of lubricant. Paul Tegler ptegler at verizon.net www.teglerizer.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gary Klein" To: ; "'Triumphs'" Sent: Friday, March 16, 2012 4:57 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Oil Dispensing Gun > Oil? Why would you still want to use oil? I stopped using oil in the > trunnions when I rebuilt the front end of my 6 and migrated to a modern, > synthetic grease. 10 years later, no problems and an oil-free floor! > > Gary > '80 TR8 w/ A/C > '75 TR6 > Severn, MD > Digest > > >> Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2012 15:12:55 +0000 (UTC) >> From: fogbro1 at comcast.net >> .To: triumph list < > triumphs at autox.team.net> >> Subject: [TR] Oil Dispensing Gun >> Message-ID: < > mail.comcast.net> > 716475976.138081.1331910775669.JavaMail.root at sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.com > cast.net> >> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >> >> List, >> >> I've tired of loading a standard grease gun with oil only to have it leak > more oil than it delivers to a grease fitting. Where can I find an >> oil dispensing gun with a standard grease fitting at a reasonable price, > like under $30, if such a thing exists. McMaster-Carr has them >> at $68 and up. Is that the going price? As suggested in previous > discussions on this List, I've tried the local boat dealer, only to be >> told that such a thing does not exist. >> >> TIA, >> >> Ed Woods > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net From tr6.guy at verizon.net Fri Mar 16 16:54:06 2012 From: tr6.guy at verizon.net (Gary Klein) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2012 18:54:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] Oil Dispensing Gun In-Reply-To: <8AF25CE9E026468ABAB71D280B11A313@dragonlairii> Message-ID: <6C037CB752F14D0FBDCE5519D3090682@mommystoyii> Paul, I see your point and concede that you may be right but I'm not sure it's an issue to worry about. I recall this topic being discussed many years ago on this list but I don't recall any "conclucion" by the members. The discussion, however, convinced me to go the grease route when I rebuilt my front-end in '98. I removed the fittings, filled new trunions by hand with grease and screwed them on, cleaning up the overflow out of the hole afterwards. I think I've topped them up once or twice since then. For cars that are driven a couple of thousand miles a year, IMHO, grease won't create any problem to worry about and WILL keep the front end and garage floor cleaner. Gary -----Original Message----- From: ptegler [mailto:ptegler at verizon.net] Sent: Friday, March 16, 2012 6:36 PM To: Gary Klein; fogbro1 at comcast.net; 'Triumphs' Subject: Re: [TR] Oil Dispensing Gun The point of the oil is to allow the small swarf created by the thread motion to sink to the bottom rather than stay in suspension and add to the mix as a grinding agent. Steel to bronze wear WILL create particulate regardless of lubricant. Paul Tegler ptegler at verizon.net www.teglerizer.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gary Klein" To: ; "'Triumphs'" Sent: Friday, March 16, 2012 4:57 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Oil Dispensing Gun > Oil? Why would you still want to use oil? I stopped using oil in the > trunnions when I rebuilt the front end of my 6 and migrated to a > modern, synthetic grease. 10 years later, no problems and an oil-free > floor! > > Gary > '80 TR8 w/ A/C > '75 TR6 > Severn, MD > Digest > > >> Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2012 15:12:55 +0000 (UTC) >> From: fogbro1 at comcast.net >> .To: triumph list < > triumphs at autox.team.net> >> Subject: [TR] Oil Dispensing Gun >> Message-ID: < > er.pa. > mail.comcast.net> > 716475976.138081.1331910775669.JavaMail.root at sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.com > cast.net> >> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >> >> List, >> >> I've tired of loading a standard grease gun with oil only to have it >> leak > more oil than it delivers to a grease fitting. Where can I find an >> oil dispensing gun with a standard grease fitting at a reasonable >> price, > like under $30, if such a thing exists. McMaster-Carr has them >> at $68 and up. Is that the going price? As suggested in previous > discussions on this List, I've tried the local boat dealer, only to be >> told that such a thing does not exist. >> >> TIA, >> >> Ed Woods > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net From JGILLIS at tcd.ie Fri Mar 16 16:51:34 2012 From: JGILLIS at tcd.ie (John Gillis) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2012 22:51:34 +0000 Subject: [TR] Pedal travel Message-ID: As I slowly venture further in the TR2 (did a 3 mile circuit around the neighborhood) quite surprised how well it all went, did get a fright when I saw smoke billowing out of the rear wheels when stopped at the lights, but fairly sure it was just paint heating up. I did feel I had too much clutch pedal free travel, can this be adjusted? the brakes were REALLY good and solid. Regards John From keithstewart at execulink.com Fri Mar 16 17:57:09 2012 From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2012 19:57:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] Radiator Caps In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <58BB3E8B-81C1-455B-9399-72FF67DF96A8@execulink.com> So, the TR2 through TR4A engines all have the same derivation. The TR2 through TR3A engines use a 4lb cap and the TR4 through TR4A engines use a 7 lb cap. What is the deciding factor that makes the difference? Is it the rad? Is it the heater core? Something else? Curious minds want to know :-) Thanks. Keith Keith R. Stewart London, Ontario E-Mail: keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom From wbeech at flash.net Fri Mar 16 18:14:16 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2012 19:14:16 -0500 Subject: [TR] Pedal travel In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: John, Congratulations on your 'Grand Voyage' through the neighborhood. What paint were you cooking with the rear wheels? Maybe your safety brake was dragging just a bit? You can adjust the clutch travel at both the M/c and the S/c. At the master there is the rod adjustment then the screw stop(I use this to get both pedals even), the slave has a threaded adjustment on the end of the push rod, similar to the master rod. Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Gillis Sent: Friday, March 16, 2012 5:52 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Pedal travel As I slowly venture further in the TR2 (did a 3 mile circuit around the neighborhood) quite surprised how well it all went, did get a fright when I saw smoke billowing out of the rear wheels when stopped at the lights, but fairly sure it was just paint heating up. I did feel I had too much clutch pedal free travel, can this be adjusted? the brakes were REALLY good and solid. Regards John ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Mar 16 18:15:43 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2012 17:15:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] Pedal travel In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <018f01cd03d3$182d30d0$48879270$@rr.com> > I did feel I had too much > clutch pedal free travel, can this be adjusted? Yes. The place to start is at the clutch slave. Different books give different clearances, but even as little as 1mm will work fine. However the clearance gets smaller as the clutch wears, so the tighter you set it to begin with, the more often it has to be readjusted. You don't want to ever let it go to zero. There is also some adjustment available at the pedal stop and pushrod. Again there must be some clearance, but it can be quite small. With all of the play taken up, there doesn't need to be more than about .010" (.25mm) between the pedal end and the stop screw. You can also lengthen or shorten the pushrod to achieve some adjustment in pedal position (followed by resetting the stop screw of course). -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Mar 16 18:35:31 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2012 17:35:31 -0700 Subject: [TR] Radiator Caps In-Reply-To: <58BB3E8B-81C1-455B-9399-72FF67DF96A8@execulink.com> References: <58BB3E8B-81C1-455B-9399-72FF67DF96A8@execulink.com> Message-ID: <01a001cd03d5$dc903c90$95b0b5b0$@rr.com> > The TR2 through > TR3A engines use a 4lb cap and the TR4 through TR4A engines use a 7 lb > cap. > What is the deciding factor that makes the difference? Personally, I suspect there was no real reason except they originally thought 4 psi was enough, and later decided that 7 psi was better. But others think it was due to the change in heater design. The TR2-3B used a circular heater element that internally had wide, flat tubes that weren't very strong. With only a little bit of internal corrosion, they can fail from too much pressure and dump scalding coolant onto the occupants. The TR4 & 4A had a more modern, round tube heater core. AFAIK, early TR4s used the same radiator and thermostat as later TR3s. They did eventually switch to a pellet type thermostat, but I think that wasn't until later, maybe 1965. Certainly there is nothing in the engine itself, as the original engine in TS13571L is running quite happily with a 10 psi cap (and no heater). -- Randall From keithstewart at execulink.com Fri Mar 16 18:58:50 2012 From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2012 20:58:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] Radiator Caps In-Reply-To: <01a001cd03d5$dc903c90$95b0b5b0$@rr.com> References: <58BB3E8B-81C1-455B-9399-72FF67DF96A8@execulink.com> <01a001cd03d5$dc903c90$95b0b5b0$@rr.com> Message-ID: On 2012-03-16, at 8:35 PM, Randall wrote: >> The TR2 through >> TR3A engines use a 4lb cap and the TR4 through TR4A engines use a 7 lb >> cap. > >> What is the deciding factor that makes the difference? > > Personally, I suspect there was no real reason except they originally > thought 4 psi was enough, and later decided that 7 psi was better. > > But others think it was due to the change in heater design. The TR2-3B used > a circular heater element that internally had wide, flat tubes that weren't > very strong. With only a little bit of internal corrosion, they can fail > from too much pressure and dump scalding coolant onto the occupants. The > TR4 & 4A had a more modern, round tube heater core. > > AFAIK, early TR4s used the same radiator and thermostat as later TR3s. They > did eventually switch to a pellet type thermostat, but I think that wasn't > until later, maybe 1965. > > Certainly there is nothing in the engine itself, as the original engine in > TS13571L is running quite happily with a 10 psi cap (and no heater). And so, if the heater in a TR3 (57) was exchanged for that from a Spitfire - I think Bob Schaller did it to this car when he worked on it in Arizona - because supposedly that was an upgrade, would that mean a 7 lb cap would be more appropriate than the 4 lb cap? Keith R. Stewart London, Ontario E-Mail: keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom From jwalker at mainet.com Fri Mar 16 19:18:21 2012 From: jwalker at mainet.com (John Walker) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2012 21:18:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] Recalcitrant TR-3B Engine Message-ID: <4F63AE1D020000EF0000CA1F@smtp.mainet.com> Thanks to all for the help with my recalcitrant TR-3B. It finally started, via an open throttle and a shot of starting fluid. Once started, the engine runs well, with no obvious issues with timing or mixture. When warmed up, a touch of the starter button and it's off and running. When cold, starting fluid is still required. I am assuming that this is a sign that the choke lever arms and connecting rod are not setup correctly. The choke levers are very stiff, even when disconnected from the choke cable. Unfortunately, my copy of the Standard Triumph Service Instruction Manual is not clear on the specifics of this setup, tho I know to use the over size holes in the lever arms when connecting them to the lever links. I would appreciate any guidance from those who have BTDT. TIA, John Walker TR-3B TS #68368 85% Done 60% to go! From allenhess at mgcarclub.com Fri Mar 16 19:20:42 2012 From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2012 21:20:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] Pedal travel In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: If the TR2 is like the 3 and 4 the pedal can be adjusted at the slave cylinder, But, unless you painted the muffler, I would revisit the rear brakes. Billowing smoke is not even normal for a TR race car (unless it punched a hole or two in the block). On Mar 16, 2012, at 7:57 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > As I slowly venture further in the TR2 did a 3 mile circuit around > the neighborhood . . . > did get a fright when I saw smoke billowing out of the rear wheels > when stopped at the lights > but fairly sure it was just paint heating up > the brakes were REALLY good and solid. From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Fri Mar 16 19:33:53 2012 From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2012 21:33:53 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Recalcitrant TR-3B Engine Message-ID: <3764a.6114a554.3c954401@aol.com> Are you sure it's not just addicted to the starting fluid? I had a Spitfire Mk.1 30 years ago that was perfectly set up but absolutely would not start from cold without the starting fluid. I checked it into rehab, but then it began to get the stuff intravenously (through the fuel tank). We named it Intra Venus de Milo (that's how the statue lost its arms, I hear; injections in the arms). Sorry to be so flippent and unhelpful. Tim In a message dated 16/03/2012 9:25:48 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, jwalker at mainet.com writes: Thanks to all for the help with my recalcitrant TR-3B. It finally started, via an open throttle and a shot of starting fluid. Once started, the engine runs well, with no obvious issues with timing or mixture. When warmed up, a touch of the starter button and it's off and running. When cold, starting fluid is still required. I am assuming that this is a sign that the choke lever arms and connecting rod are not setup correctly. The choke levers are very stiff, even when disconnected from the choke cable. Unfortunately, my copy of the Standard Triumph Service Instruction Manual is not clear on the specifics of this setup, tho I know to use the over size holes in the lever arms when connecting them to the lever links. I would appreciate any guidance from those who have BTDT. TIA, John Walker TR-3B TS #68368 85% Done 60% to go! ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/kingscreektrees at aol.com From wbeech at flash.net Fri Mar 16 20:22:23 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2012 21:22:23 -0500 Subject: [TR] Radiator Caps In-Reply-To: References: <58BB3E8B-81C1-455B-9399-72FF67DF96A8@execulink.com><01a001cd03d5$dc903c90$95b0b5b0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <10265E49DA764BA8852DB99949CD6FCA@bboffice> So, If I read this thread correctly I should have no problems switching to a 7lb or even 10lb cap in my 1958 TR3 or the 1962 TR engined Morgan that I maintain for a friend? Neither of us has heaters out here in West Texas. That would sure ease up a bit on all the spewing from the overflow under fairly normal conditions. Thx, Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Keith Stewart Sent: Friday, March 16, 2012 7:59 PM To: Randall Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Radiator Caps On 2012-03-16, at 8:35 PM, Randall wrote: >> The TR2 through >> TR3A engines use a 4lb cap and the TR4 through TR4A engines use a 7 >> lb cap. > >> What is the deciding factor that makes the difference? > > Personally, I suspect there was no real reason except they originally > thought 4 psi was enough, and later decided that 7 psi was better. > > But others think it was due to the change in heater design. The > TR2-3B used > a circular heater element that internally had wide, flat tubes that > weren't very strong. With only a little bit of internal corrosion, > they can fail from too much pressure and dump scalding coolant onto > the occupants. The > TR4 & 4A had a more modern, round tube heater core. > > AFAIK, early TR4s used the same radiator and thermostat as later TR3s. They > did eventually switch to a pellet type thermostat, but I think that > wasn't until later, maybe 1965. > > Certainly there is nothing in the engine itself, as the original > engine in TS13571L is running quite happily with a 10 psi cap (and no heater). And so, if the heater in a TR3 (57) was exchanged for that from a Spitfire - I think Bob Schaller did it to this car when he worked on it in Arizona - because supposedly that was an upgrade, would that mean a 7 lb cap would be more appropriate than the 4 lb cap? Keith R. Stewart London, Ontario E-Mail: keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From ptegler at verizon.net Fri Mar 16 20:33:32 2012 From: ptegler at verizon.net (ptegler) Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2012 22:33:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] Oil Dispensing Gun References: <6C037CB752F14D0FBDCE5519D3090682@mommystoyii> Message-ID: <8701D1CA1B3F400DA731F7408440A34E@dragonlairii> oh, agreed. I use grease as well. T'was simply the logistics of the oem design. Paul Tegler ptegler at verizon.net www.teglerizer.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gary Klein" To: "'ptegler'" ; "'Triumphs'" Sent: Friday, March 16, 2012 6:54 PM Subject: RE: [TR] Oil Dispensing Gun Paul, I see your point and concede that you may be right but I'm not sure it's an issue to worry about. I recall this topic being discussed many years ago on this list but I don't recall any "conclucion" by the members. The discussion, however, convinced me to go the grease route when I rebuilt my front-end in '98. I removed the fittings, filled new trunions by hand with grease and screwed them on, cleaning up the overflow out of the hole afterwards. I think I've topped them up once or twice since then. For cars that are driven a couple of thousand miles a year, IMHO, grease From spook01 at comcast.net Sat Mar 17 05:01:26 2012 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2012 06:01:26 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Recalcitrant_TR-3B_Engine?= Message-ID: In cold wx, my TR4 pulls the same stunt. Go figure. I thought the pump was taking its time refilling the carb bowls after a rest period. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "John Walker" To: Subject: [TR] Recalcitrant TR-3B Engine Date: Fri, Mar 16, 2012 20:18 Thanks to all for the help with my recalcitrant TR-3B. It finally started, via an open throttle and a shot of starting fluid. Once started, the engine runs well, with no obvious issues with timing or mixture. When warmed up, a touch of the starter button and it's off and running. When cold, starting fluid is still required. I am assuming that this is a sign that the choke lever arms and connecting rod are not setup correctly. The choke levers are very stiff, even when disconnected from the choke cable. Unfortunately, my copy of the Standard Triumph Service Instruction Manual is not clear on the specifics of this setup, tho I know to use the over size holes in the lever arms when connecting them to the lever links. I would appreciate any guidance from those who have BTDT. TIA, John Walker TR-3B TS #68368 85% Done 60% to go! ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Sat Mar 17 06:04:55 2012 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2012 08:04:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] Throwout bearing In-Reply-To: <015501cd03bc$72dca450$5895ecf0$@rr.com> References: <4F63A157.3060806@charter.net> <015501cd03bc$72dca450$5895ecf0$@rr.com> Message-ID: Here is a piece of advice for newbies out there when reusing the throw out bearing. Don't use a parts washer or spray brake/carb cleaners on the throw out bearing to clean. On most bearings it will remove the permanent lubrication and ruin the bearing. Please don't ask me how I know this... A better option is to spray some on a towel and wipe the surface clean. On Mar 16, 2012 5:42 PM, "Randall" wrote: > > The old clutch, with stock components that may have traveled 90,000 > > successful miles, still works fine but is nearing the end of the wear > > limit. > > Just a suggestion, Jeff, why not just replace the components that are near > their wear limit (generally just the friction part of the friction plate) > and leave the rest alone? Why install unknown components in the place of > "known good" ones? > > I've been following that philosophy for many years now, and hundreds of > thousands of miles. The only TOB failure I have _ever_ had was when I > mistakenly installed the wrong one (a no-name bearing from a junkyard > gearbox), rather than the one that came out of the car. And even then it > went over 50,000 miles before there was a problem. > > In addition to TOB problems, there have also been problems reported with > new > pressure plates, and new friction plates. Several people in the local > clubs > have had relatively new friction plates fail entirely, necessitating a ride > home on a flatbed. > > There is also a good article at > http://goo.gl/zCqsx > that outlines some of the pressure plate problems. Worth a read. > > PS, although I drive a TR3 every day (when it doesn't rain), it has a TR6 > clutch & gearbox in it. > > -- Randall > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ccsimonsen at gmail.com From tjwakeman at gmail.com Sat Mar 17 06:48:58 2012 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2012 05:48:58 -0700 Subject: [TR] Radiator Caps In-Reply-To: <10265E49DA764BA8852DB99949CD6FCA@bboffice> References: <58BB3E8B-81C1-455B-9399-72FF67DF96A8@execulink.com><01a001cd03d5$dc903c90$95b0b5b0$@rr.com> <10265E49DA764BA8852DB99949CD6FCA@bboffice> Message-ID: <4F64883A.70601@gmail.com> On 3/16/12 7:22 PM, wbeech at flash.net wrote: > So, If I read this thread correctly I should have no problems switching to a > 7lb or even 10lb cap in my 1958 TR3 or the 1962 TR engined Morgan that I > maintain for a friend? Neither of us has heaters out here in West Texas. > But where would you find a 7 lb cap that would work with a TR3 radiator neck? My heater is disconnected just because I haven't found a good way to plumb the hose past the DOCEs and when it is cold enough to need it there is usually snow on the road anyway and the Land Rover is chomping to be out. Teriann From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Sat Mar 17 08:28:07 2012 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2012 07:28:07 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Radiator Caps Message-ID: <1331994487.58851.YahooMailNeo@web39406.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Date: Fri, 16 Mar 2012 19:57:09 -0400 From: Keith Stewart Subject: [TR] Radiator Caps So, the TR2 through TR4A engines all have the same derivation. The TR2 through TR3A engines use a 4lb cap and the TR4 through TR4A engines use a 7 lb cap. What is the deciding factor that makes the difference? Is it the rad? Is it the heater core? Something else? Curious minds want to know :-) Thanks. Keith ------------ Hi Keith! Well I'm not quite sure my self, because I never owned any other TRIUMPH but my TR4A which takes a 7# Rad. cap. I doubt that it is the rad. or heater cores because I've know places to pressure test the cooling system up to 15 PSI (over night). I have read that others have mentioned about short neck Rad. vs the 'standard' neck, but I don't know if they mean the actual 'neck' that the cap attaches on or the 'extra' length that protrudes from the rad that the cap attaches to? It should be interesting following this thread. -Cosmo Kramer From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Sat Mar 17 09:33:03 2012 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2012 08:33:03 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Subject: B & B clutch and Gunst T. O. Bearing in a TR6? Message-ID: <1331998383.2954.YahooMailNeo@web39405.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hi List! A quick question: When I read & wrote about the B&B PP I was under the impression that meant the PP with the 3 lever arms. But later on in the thread, there was an address to go to & read the article about clutches. I went to it & read it, to find that the B&B PP (that was talked about) was a spring diaphragm style & nothing was mentioned about the 3 lever arm PP that I was referring to. What is or how should one call the 3 lever arm PP that was used in early TR4's & maybe earlier TRIUMPH models? I thought the 3 lever arm PP's were B&B Clutches. -Cosmo Kramer From keithstewart at execulink.com Sat Mar 17 09:39:43 2012 From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart) Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2012 11:39:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] Radiator Caps In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <136CB1C7-236E-4DCA-B79D-96D49F4356B8@execulink.com> On Sat, 17 Mar 2012, at 8:48 AM, "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" wrote: > But where would you find a 7 lb cap that would work with a TR3 radiator > neck? Am I missing something here? TRF - and I assume the others sell the 7 lb cap. The TR3 rad is the same as the early TR4 with the header on the header tank. Are you suggesting there is a fitment issue? Keith R. Stewart London, Ontario E-Mail: keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom From tjwakeman at gmail.com Sat Mar 17 10:03:43 2012 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2012 09:03:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] Radiator Caps In-Reply-To: <136CB1C7-236E-4DCA-B79D-96D49F4356B8@execulink.com> References: <136CB1C7-236E-4DCA-B79D-96D49F4356B8@execulink.com> Message-ID: <4F64B5DF.8020003@gmail.com> On 3/17/12 8:39 AM, Keith Stewart wrote: > On Sat, 17 Mar 2012, at 8:48 AM, "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" > wrote: > >> But where would you find a 7 lb cap that would work with a TR3 radiator >> neck? > Am I missing something here? TRF - and I assume the others sell the 7 lb cap. > The TR3 rad is the same as the early TR4 with the header on the header tank. > Are you suggesting there is a fitment issue? I don't know anything about TR4 radiators and assumed that they may have the standard neck height. So can I use a TR4 radiator cap on a TR3?? Teriann From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Mar 17 10:13:45 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2012 09:13:45 -0700 Subject: [TR] Subject: B & B clutch and Gunst T. O. Bearing in a TR6? In-Reply-To: <1331998383.2954.YahooMailNeo@web39405.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <1331998383.2954.YahooMailNeo@web39405.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <007801cd0458$ee4d9f30$0301a8c0@randall> "B&B" stands for "Borg and Beck", which was a company that made clutches (among other things). They no longer exist as a separate company, only as a name (that like "Lucas" has been sold and re-sold). But "back when" they made lots of different clutches, for different makes, models and years of cars. So with regards to Triumph TRs, we have at least the "3-finger" B&B clutch used on TR2-4, plus the "diaphragm" B&B clutch used on (at least) some TR4A-TR6. Then there are actually several different B&B clutches that fit the TR4A-TR6, as documented in the articles by Brent Kiser & Nelson Riedel. (I don't know offhand what the TR7 & TR8 used.) > What is or how should one call the 3 lever arm PP that > was used in early TR4's & maybe earlier TRIUMPH models? I > thought the 3 lever > arm PP's were B&B Clutches. When it is important to distinguish, I suggest "3-finger" for the B&B TR2-4 clutch, and "B&B diaphragm" for the B&B version of the TR4A-TR6 clutch. -- Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Mar 17 10:29:02 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2012 09:29:02 -0700 Subject: [TR] Radiator Caps In-Reply-To: <4F64B5DF.8020003@gmail.com> References: <136CB1C7-236E-4DCA-B79D-96D49F4356B8@execulink.com> <4F64B5DF.8020003@gmail.com> Message-ID: <007901cd045b$107090c0$0301a8c0@randall> > So can I use a TR4 radiator cap on a TR3?? Early TR4 used the same 1" reach neck as the TR3. However at some point, the radiator changed and the later radiator used a 3/4" reach neck (similar to many other cars). The later cap will screw on to the early radiator and may even appear to seal, but will not hold pressure properly. So if you want to use a 7 psi cap on your TR3 radiator, an early TR4 cap will do. Note that, the last time I looked at a Stant catalog, they listed only the later TR4 cap, without any notation that it would not fit earlier TR4. Another option is to have the filler neck replaced with a 3/4" reach neck. My radiator shop charged less than $20 for this (as part of other work), which gives me a much larger choice of radiator caps (including the Stant "Lev-R-Vent" series, which I rather like). But if you go this route, be careful to remember that the neck has been modified. The original 1" reach cap will still go on, and result in the relief pressure being way too high. One of our local club members suffers from CRS and had a terrible time figuring out why his upper radiator hoses kept blowing up like balloons ... -- Randall From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Sat Mar 17 10:31:47 2012 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2012 09:31:47 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Subject: B & B clutch and Gunst T. O. Bearing in a TR6? In-Reply-To: <1332001720.46759.YahooMailNeo@web39405.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <1331998383.2954.YahooMailNeo@web39405.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <007801cd0458$ee4d9f30$0301a8c0@randall> <1332001720.46759.YahooMailNeo@web39405.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1332001907.25743.YahooMailNeo@web39401.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hi Randall! Ok I shall remember to state 3 fingure PP vs diaphram PP. -Cosmo Kramer >>________________________________ >> From: Randall >>To: 'Cosmo Kramer' ; triumphs at autox.team.net >>Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2012 12:13 PM >>Subject: RE: [TR] Subject: B & B clutch and Gunst T. O. Bearing in a TR6? >> >>"B&B" stands for "Borg and Beck", which was a company that made clutches >>(among other things). They no longer exist as a separate company, only as a >>name (that like "Lucas" has been sold and re-sold). But "back when" they >>made lots of different clutches, for different makes, models and years of >>cars. >> >>So with regards to Triumph TRs, we have at least the "3-finger" B&B clutch >>used on TR2-4, plus the "diaphragm" B&B clutch used on (at least) some >>TR4A-TR6. Then there are actually several different B&B clutches that fit >>the TR4A-TR6, as documented in the articles by Brent Kiser & Nelson Riedel. >> >>(I don't know offhand what the TR7 & TR8 used.) >> >>> What is or how should one call the 3 lever arm PP that >>> was used in early TR4's & maybe earlier TRIUMPH models? I >>> thought the 3 lever >>> arm PP's were B&B Clutches. >> >>When it is important to distinguish, I suggest "3-finger" for the B&B TR2-4 >>clutch, and "B&B diaphragm" for the B&B version of the TR4A-TR6 clutch. >> >>-- Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Mar 17 10:41:01 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2012 09:41:01 -0700 Subject: [TR] Radiator Caps In-Reply-To: <1331994487.58851.YahooMailNeo@web39406.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <1331994487.58851.YahooMailNeo@web39406.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <007d01cd045c$bce9e580$0301a8c0@randall> > I've know places to pressure test the > cooling system up > to 15 PSI (over night). Something that complicates this picture: The pressure is not constant throughout the system when the engine is running. In order to circulate the water, the water pump has to create a pressure differential. How big the pressure differential is depends on several factors, including engine rpm. Some of the racers have reported finding over 30 psi at the heater fitting on the rear of the head (with no heater attached, of course) during sustained high rpm operation. > I have read that others have mentioned about short > neck Rad. vs the 'standard' neck, but I don't know if they > mean the actual > 'neck' that the cap attaches on or the 'extra' length that > protrudes from the > rad that the cap attaches to? I think sometimes they mean one thing, and sometimes the other. My understanding is that they changed at the same time, but I could be mistaken. -- Randall From tony at tonydrews.com Sat Mar 17 10:43:21 2012 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2012 11:43:21 -0500 Subject: [TR] Recalcitrant TR-3B Engine In-Reply-To: <20120317110147.6E2932D0B7E@autox.team.net> References: <20120317110147.6E2932D0B7E@autox.team.net> Message-ID: Sounds like my old Fiat 128 - apparently it didn't get very cold in Italy. Wouldn't start without starter fluid when cold and had pretty anemic heat (although much better heat than the VW Beetles which replaced it). Tony At 06:01 AM 3/17/2012, spook01 at comcast.net wrote: >In cold wx, my TR4 pulls the same stunt. Go figure. >I thought the pump was taking its time refilling the carb bowls >after a rest period. > > >Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone > >----- Reply message ----- >From: "John Walker" >To: >Subject: [TR] Recalcitrant TR-3B Engine >Date: Fri, Mar 16, 2012 20:18 > > >Thanks to all for the help with my recalcitrant TR-3B. It finally started, via >an open throttle and a shot of starting fluid. Once started, the engine runs >well, with no obvious issues with timing or mixture. When warmed up, a touch >of the starter button and it's off and running. When cold, starting fluid is >still required. I am assuming that this is a sign that the choke lever arms >and connecting rod are not setup correctly. The choke levers are very stiff, >even when disconnected from the choke cable. > >Unfortunately, my copy of the Standard Triumph Service Instruction Manual is >not clear on the specifics of this setup, tho I know to use the over size >holes in the lever arms when connecting them to the lever links. I would >appreciate any guidance from those who have BTDT. > >TIA, > >John Walker >TR-3B TS #68368 >85% Done 60% to go! From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Mar 17 13:02:01 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2012 12:02:01 -0700 Subject: [TR] Radiator Caps In-Reply-To: <10265E49DA764BA8852DB99949CD6FCA@bboffice> References: <58BB3E8B-81C1-455B-9399-72FF67DF96A8@execulink.com><01a001cd03d5$dc903c90$95b0b5b0$@rr.com> <10265E49DA764BA8852DB99949CD6FCA@bboffice> Message-ID: <009401cd0470$6fbf03d0$0301a8c0@randall> > So, If I read this thread correctly I should have no problems > switching to a > 7lb or even 10lb cap in my 1958 TR3 or the 1962 TR engined > Morgan I do have one caveat : I had a bit of a run of radiator hose failures that might possibly be related to the increased pressure. I think they were probably due to other factors (eg bad motor mounts, radiator shop forcing hose off and on without removing Tstat housing, etc) but I don't know for sure. I'm currently trying out one of the "heavy duty" upper hoses from Gates, rather than the previous cloth-covered reproductions of the original hose. -- Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Mar 17 13:12:15 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2012 12:12:15 -0700 Subject: [TR] Recalcitrant TR-3B Engine In-Reply-To: <4F63AE1D020000EF0000CA1F@smtp.mainet.com> References: <4F63AE1D020000EF0000CA1F@smtp.mainet.com> Message-ID: <009501cd0471$dd8f6430$0301a8c0@randall> > When warmed up, a touch > of the starter button and it's off and running. When cold, > starting fluid is > still required. The most important thing, IMO, is to pull the knob out and lock it, then check that the jets are both pulled down by at least 1/4" or so, and by the same amount. But using the rather odd linkage arrangement shown in the photo will help that to happen. Note that old fuel can sometimes cause a similar problem. The more volatile elements evaporate, and what is left behind doesn't vaporize or ignite easily. Weak ignition and/or a weak battery can also cause problems where the car just won't start cold. I had a bad battery that was apparently not supplying enough voltage for the Pertronix to work while cranking, even though the gear-drive starter was still spinning the engine. > Unfortunately, my copy of the Standard Triumph Service > Instruction Manual is > not clear on the specifics of this setup, Here is a blowup from Practical Hints 6th ed that might be helpful. http://goo.gl/y2azx (click on the image to zoom in) -- Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Mar 17 13:15:24 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2012 12:15:24 -0700 Subject: [TR] Radiator Caps In-Reply-To: References: <58BB3E8B-81C1-455B-9399-72FF67DF96A8@execulink.com><01a001cd03d5$dc903c90$95b0b5b0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <009601cd0472$4e2a99d0$0301a8c0@randall> > because supposedly that was an upgrade, would that mean a 7 > lb cap would be > more appropriate than the 4 lb cap? IMO, only if you need the extra margin before the coolant boils. The stock system actually works pretty good if everything is in good shape (most of my modifications were made while fighting with what turned out to be bad radiators). -- Randall From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com Sat Mar 17 14:14:36 2012 From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly) Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2012 13:14:36 -0700 Subject: [TR] Radiator Caps In-Reply-To: <009401cd0470$6fbf03d0$0301a8c0@randall> References: <58BB3E8B-81C1-455B-9399-72FF67DF96A8@execulink.com><01a001cd03d5$dc903c90$95b0b5b0$@rr.com> <10265E49DA764BA8852DB99949CD6FCA@bboffice> <009401cd0470$6fbf03d0$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <000301cd047a$93ae7e60$bb0b7b20$@rr.com> Which ones, the racing blue ones? Is making the bends an issue? Johnnie I'm currently trying out one of the "heavy duty" upper hoses > from > Gates, rather than the previous cloth-covered reproductions of the > original > hose. >-- Randall From fishplate at charter.net Sat Mar 17 15:01:08 2012 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff) Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2012 17:01:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 drive shaft Message-ID: <4F64FB94.9090303@charter.net> 75 TR6 drive shaft -- is it supposed to slide? If so, can it be disassembled and cleaned? Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sat Mar 17 15:12:50 2012 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2012 17:12:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 drive shaft Message-ID: <4F64FE52.5000904@adelphia.net> Jeff, Yes and yes. but remember to mark it so you put it back together correctly. It does matter! When reassembling the splined shaft I used moly grease. Bob On 03/17/2012 05:01 PM, Jeff wrote: > 75 TR6 drive shaft -- is it supposed to slide? > > If so, can it be disassembled and cleaned? > > Jeff Scarbrough > Corrosion Acres, Ga. From aljlthomson at charter.net Sat Mar 17 16:39:19 2012 From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson) Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2012 18:39:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 drive shaft In-Reply-To: <4F64FB94.9090303@charter.net> References: <4F64FB94.9090303@charter.net> Message-ID: <000001cd048e$cd0d9920$6728cb60$@charter.net> Yes and Yes. But remember, universal joints must be kept "in phase". In other words, the inner yokes must be aligned with each other on a drive shaft and, of course, that means that the outer yokes will be aligned. There is an amount of acceleration/deceleration that drive shafts will experience when transmitting power through steep angles. Try steering a 4 wheel drive truck under power when in FWD at full right or left steering angle and you will experience the driveline "fighting" itself. Power take off shafts on farm equipment often have to transmit power through a near 90 degree angle when turning corners in a field. Any misalignment on the yokes will cause all sorts of nasty sounds and vibrations. Most PTO shafts have an indexed spline so that they cannot be assembled out-of-phase. Make sure your drive shaft yokes are aligned and the splines are greased. The splines have to slide as the drive shaft length varies with suspension movement. Alex Thomson -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jeff Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2012 5:01 PM To: *Triumphs List Subject: [TR] TR6 drive shaft 75 TR6 drive shaft -- is it supposed to slide? If so, can it be disassembled and cleaned? Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net From zoboherald at aol.com Sat Mar 17 18:06:16 2012 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace) Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2012 20:06:16 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Subject: B & B clutch and Gunst T. O. Bearing in a TR6? In-Reply-To: <1332001907.25743.YahooMailNeo@web39401.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <1331998383.2954.YahooMailNeo@web39405.mail.mud.yahoo.com><007801cd0458$ee4d9f30$0301a8c0@randall><1332001720.46759.YahooMailNeo@web39405.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <1332001907.25743.YahooMailNeo@web39401.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8CED2B2129E9EE6-4BC-8140@webmail-d058.sysops.aol.com> Cosmo stated: >> Ok I shall remember to state 3 fingure PP vs diaphram PP. Another alternative would be to refer to the earlier type as a coil-spring pressure plate; that's what I've always called them (right or wrong)! --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Mar 17 20:35:48 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 17 Mar 2012 19:35:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] Radiator Caps In-Reply-To: <000301cd047a$93ae7e60$bb0b7b20$@rr.com> References: <58BB3E8B-81C1-455B-9399-72FF67DF96A8@execulink.com><01a001cd03d5$dc903c90$95b0b5b0$@rr.com><10265E49DA764BA8852DB99949CD6FCA@bboffice><009401cd0470$6fbf03d0$0301a8c0@randall> <000301cd047a$93ae7e60$bb0b7b20$@rr.com> Message-ID: <00e301cd04af$d47aadd0$0301a8c0@randall> > Which ones, the racing blue ones? Is making the bends an issue? It's Gates P/N 23511, which they call "Green Stripe Vibraflex": http://goo.gl/GAN4L I got it from the RockAuto web site: http://goo.gl/Db1L7 (Give it time, their web site is very slow, but that link should eventually open the listing for the hose.) -- Randall From Catpusher at aol.com Sat Mar 17 22:03:51 2012 From: Catpusher at aol.com (Catpusher at aol.com) Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2012 00:03:51 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Radiator Caps Message-ID: <1a3ba.70790d26.3c96b8a7@aol.com> Joe Huffaker told me that he found 50 + + psi was the reason for GM V8 core plugs being expelled from the blocks at high RPM.. I made a "long neck" 7 psi cap for my racing TR3 by adding an extra spring or two to the cap, and testing the blow off pressure with a gauge and a garden hose. When I still ran the TR3 heater for extra cooling, it was OK with 7 psi.. I did slow down the water pump on the race car at a later date. TR Regards, Hardy In a message dated 3/17/2012 11:03:08 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, triumphs-request at autox.team.net writes: From: "Randall" To: "'Cosmo Kramer'" Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Radiator Caps Message-ID: <007d01cd045c$bce9e580$0301a8c0 at randall> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > I've know places to pressure test the > cooling system up > to 15 PSI (over night). Something that complicates this picture: The pressure is not constant throughout the system when the engine is running. In order to circulate the water, the water pump has to create a pressure differential. How big the pressure differential is depends on several factors, including engine rpm. Some of the racers have reported finding over 30 psi at the heater fitting on the rear of the head (with no heater attached, of course) during sustained high rpm operation. From dconnitt at fuse.net Sat Mar 17 22:27:48 2012 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2012 00:27:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] Rebuilding SU HS-6 carbs Message-ID: Hi List, I spent the day starting the rebuild of the HS-6 carbs on my TR4A. I have one apart and pretty much cleaned up. I have to send both of them off to get the throttle shafts rebushed and I am thinking about replacing the butterflies which have some type of anti-runon vavle in them with straight butterflies. Those valves almost completely block half of the throttle area. One thing I wanted to ask the list was that I am also considering getting either the Eastwood or Caswell metal blackening kit to coat all the screws, springs, and brackets so they don't rust. Has anybody used either of these kits to coat bare steel parts? I ended up cleaning all the parts ultrasonically first, then the outside with glass beads, and finally using walnut shells. The final finish looks pretty good. I am not a big fan of the polished look. I updated my website with the progress so far if anybody is interested.. http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a Go to Check my progress. There is a link there to the carb rebuilding page. I hope to get the other carb apart and cleaned tomorrow. Dave Connitt '67 TR4A IRS From emw327 at gmail.com Sun Mar 18 05:51:57 2012 From: emw327 at gmail.com (=?UTF-8?B?ZW1haWwg4oWcIg==?=) Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2012 12:51:57 +0100 Subject: [TR] TR windscreen Message-ID: Hello Look at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8AW78FpyLqI&feature=related and see how the windscreen is mounted on the car. How did they do it? What do we need to do it? Any information or ideas??? Greentings from Belgium, Guido emw327 at gmail.com From eoot at citlink.net Sun Mar 18 08:25:04 2012 From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot) Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2012 10:25:04 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 ZS won'y idle Message-ID: <617E3F1F677E4BE3BD3F96159D926C49@Office> Listers I need some help on this one. I installed a set of late model ZS carbs rebuilt by a pro rebuilder. Prior to installing these, the car ran well except that it was running too lean, I couldn't get the jets to budge and I detected vacumn leak. I installed the rebuilts, the car fired right up, I adjusted the idle, went for a short drive and everything seemed fine. A few days later I had a chance to run it longer, about an hour and half. Somewhere during that drive the car started not wanting to idle at stop. Slowely start to die. I discussed the issue with the rebuilder and he felt that vacumn leak was the most obvious culprit. Here is what I have done to date: Attempted to adjust idle. but no matter how much it will still slowly die. Plugged the feed to the brake booster and to the dizzy. Used a propane hand torch to check everything for a leak. Changed the fuel filter. Pulled the plugs and gapped. Dry but sooty in appearance. All of the above to no avail. The car will fire up immediatly, and if I set the choke just right it will idle, but a bit roughly. (car has mild cam). I can put the old carbs back in just to elimiate (or confirm) the rebuilt carbs as the source of the problem, but I would like to know if anyonme has other suggestions before I go through that. Thanks in advance From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Mar 18 09:45:03 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2012 08:45:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 ZS won'y idle In-Reply-To: <617E3F1F677E4BE3BD3F96159D926C49@Office> References: <617E3F1F677E4BE3BD3F96159D926C49@Office> Message-ID: <003001cd051e$163d8260$0301a8c0@randall> > Pulled the plugs and gapped. Dry but sooty in appearance. Was this after it had died on it's own? Sounds like too much fuel rather than too little. Any chance your fuel pump is making too much pressure? Did the rebuilder use Grose Jets? > (car has mild cam) Are the valves set per the specs for the cam? Many aftermarket cams take more lash than the stock cam; and lash too tight can cause strange idle problems. -- Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Mar 18 09:54:44 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2012 08:54:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR windscreen In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <003401cd051f$700cbb20$0301a8c0@randall> > How did they do it? My guess, a big lump of clay between the glass and scuttle. > What do we need to do it? Be in a movie with a director that doesn't know the difference between a Triumph and a MG. -- Randall From eoot at citlink.net Sun Mar 18 10:28:54 2012 From: eoot at citlink.net (eoot at citlink.net) Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2012 12:28:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 ZS won'y idle In-Reply-To: <003001cd051e$163d8260$0301a8c0@randall> References: <617E3F1F677E4BE3BD3F96159D926C49@Office> <003001cd051e$163d8260$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: Plugs are dry and sooty after it dies on it's own. I guess I tend to discount things like valve lash our too much fuel pressure as those systems have not been touched since it idled fine. Not sure if Jeff uses Grose jets. Is there anything in the installation that could result in this behavior? As I mentioned at starts right up and will run with the choke out a quarter. Thanks Ed Sent from my iPhone On Mar 18, 2012, at 11:45 AM, "Randall" wrote: >> Pulled the plugs and gapped. Dry but sooty in appearance. > > Was this after it had died on it's own? Sounds like too much fuel rather > than too little. Any chance your fuel pump is making too much pressure? > Did the rebuilder use Grose Jets? > >> (car has mild cam) > > Are the valves set per the specs for the cam? Many aftermarket cams take > more lash than the stock cam; and lash too tight can cause strange idle > problems. > > -- Randall From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Mar 18 10:36:52 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2012 12:36:52 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] TR windscreen Message-ID: <8e1b.40279737.3c976924@cs.com> In a message dated 3/18/2012 7:01:17 AM Central Daylight Time, emw327 at gmail.com writes: > Look at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8AW78FpyLqI&feature=related > and see how the windscreen is mounted on the car. > How did they do it? > What do we need to do it? > Any information or ideas??? > It's easy if: A) you don't car if the windshield gets scratched and B) You don't care if the paint gets scratched. Otherwise I don't recommend it. I think it was done primarily for cinematic purposes. The audience can see the actors better with that pesky windscreen out of the way. And as anyone in the entertainment industry will tell you, "Don't let the facts get in the way of a good story." Amicalements Dave From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sun Mar 18 11:04:49 2012 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (dave n) Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2012 12:04:49 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR windscreen In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7CF351D82938444AAB25FAC3FA7CABC8@ranteer.local> that is too funny. if you want to do that, get a jeep. and notice with the windscreen down their hair is not blowing at all. my wife would love that! > Hello > > Look at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8AW78FpyLqI&feature=related > and see how the windscreen is mounted on the car. > How did they do it? > What do we need to do it? > Any information or ideas??? From allegrorover at mac.com Sun Mar 18 12:14:28 2012 From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio) Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2012 14:14:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 ZS won'y idle In-Reply-To: <003001cd051e$163d8260$0301a8c0@randall> References: <617E3F1F677E4BE3BD3F96159D926C49@Office> <003001cd051e$163d8260$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: When I was having problems similar to what you experiencing, it was determined that the two washers on the top of the float bowls were upside down. The washer with the three notches needs to be on the bottom so the bowl can vent. It sounds simple but what a pain to find, the carb that was giving me problems kept flooding after I shut the car down which made it very difficult to start as it had the excess gas in the manifold. Tony Cascio From fishplate at charter.net Sun Mar 18 19:27:17 2012 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff) Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2012 21:27:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 ZS won'y idle In-Reply-To: <003001cd051e$163d8260$0301a8c0@randall> References: <617E3F1F677E4BE3BD3F96159D926C49@Office> <003001cd051e$163d8260$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <4F668B75.2000005@charter.net> On 3/18/2012 11:45 AM, Randall wrote: > Did the rebuilder use Grose Jets? My TR6, which had sat for 5 years when I got it, has Grose Jets. I pulled 'em out, gave 'em a shot of carb cleaner, and put 'em back in...the car has run great for a year. Of course, now I have to go make sure it isn't flooding. But it will idle all day long with no trouble. Seems like if the valves weren't holding, I'd have a problem with that. Did I get the only set that works? Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Mar 18 20:41:02 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2012 19:41:02 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 ZS won'y idle In-Reply-To: <4F668B75.2000005@charter.net> References: <617E3F1F677E4BE3BD3F96159D926C49@Office><003001cd051e$163d8260$0301a8c0@randall> <4F668B75.2000005@charter.net> Message-ID: <00f301cd0579$b9ebc330$0301a8c0@randall> > Did I get the only set that works? Nope, lots of people love them. By comparison, I've only fixed two or three cars by throwing them away and putting back the original type valve. -- Randall From mark at bradakis.com Sun Mar 18 21:05:16 2012 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2012 21:05:16 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR6 ZS won'y idle In-Reply-To: <4F668B75.2000005@charter.net> References: <617E3F1F677E4BE3BD3F96159D926C49@Office> <003001cd051e$163d8260$0301a8c0@randall> <4F668B75.2000005@charter.net> Message-ID: <4F66A26C.7010305@bradakis.com> Jeff wrote: > On 3/18/2012 11:45 AM, Randall wrote: >> Did the rebuilder use Grose Jets? > > My TR6, which had sat for 5 years when I got it, has Grose Jets. I > pulled 'em out, gave 'em a shot of carb cleaner, and put 'em back > in...the car has run great for a year. > > Did I get the only set that works? > > Jeff Scarbrough > Corrosion Acres, Ga. > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** When they work, they work very well. When they get a speck of whatever in them they don't work very well at all. mjb. From wbeech at flash.net Sun Mar 18 22:01:42 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2012 23:01:42 -0500 Subject: [TR] Rebuilding SU HS-6 carbs In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5C3131B9EDFE465A981571F91510F93B@bboffice> Dave, You might be better off send the black bits to a plater and have them black oxide plated, not as expensive as chrome and will take care of your rust concerns. Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Connitt Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2012 11:28 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Rebuilding SU HS-6 carbs Hi List, I spent the day starting the rebuild of the HS-6 carbs on my TR4A. I have one apart and pretty much cleaned up. I have to send both of them off to get the throttle shafts rebushed and I am thinking about replacing the butterflies which have some type of anti-runon vavle in them with straight butterflies. Those valves almost completely block half of the throttle area. One thing I wanted to ask the list was that I am also considering getting either the Eastwood or Caswell metal blackening kit to coat all the screws, springs, and brackets so they don't rust. Has anybody used either of these kits to coat bare steel parts? I ended up cleaning all the parts ultrasonically first, then the outside with glass beads, and finally using walnut shells. The final finish looks pretty good. I am not a big fan of the polished look. I updated my website with the progress so far if anybody is interested.. http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a Go to Check my progress. There is a link there to the carb rebuilding page. I hope to get the other carb apart and cleaned tomorrow. Dave Connitt '67 TR4A IRS ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From eoot at citlink.net Mon Mar 19 06:50:34 2012 From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2012 08:50:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 ZS won'y idle Update References: <617E3F1F677E4BE3BD3F96159D926C49@Office><003001cd051e$163d8260$0301a8c0@randall><4F668B75.2000005@charter.net> <4F66A26C.7010305@bradakis.com> Message-ID: I took a look at the carbs that came out and noticed that the idle screws were down much further that I had tried. In fact. they were down enough that the pin that the lever pushes against is totally depressed. What is the purpose of that pin? I don't see it in my books. Anyway, I then set the screw down to approx. the same setting. This pretty much bottomed out the adjustment (screw appears shorter than on old carbs). Started the car and it idles at 8 to 900 without the choke pulled at all. Is the most likely reason for this the cam? (which was in the car when I got it)..I will check the valve lash as I did find the specs on it. Big difference from stock. I show stock at .010 while this cam spec is .015 inlet, .017 exh. This seem plausible? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark J Bradakis" To: Sent: Sunday, March 18, 2012 11:05 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 ZS won'y idle > Jeff wrote: >> On 3/18/2012 11:45 AM, Randall wrote: >>> Did the rebuilder use Grose Jets? >> >> My TR6, which had sat for 5 years when I got it, has Grose Jets. I >> pulled 'em out, gave 'em a shot of carb cleaner, and put 'em back >> in...the car has run great for a year. >> >> Did I get the only set that works? >> >> Jeff Scarbrough >> Corrosion Acres, Ga. >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > When they work, they work very well. When they get a speck of whatever in > them > they don't work very well at all. > > mjb. > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/eoot at citlink.net From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Mon Mar 19 08:57:16 2012 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2012 07:57:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] Upholstery In-Reply-To: <20120316175734.C19362D0AC9@autox.team.net> References: <20120316175734.C19362D0AC9@autox.team.net> Message-ID: I got the TR4 leather seat kit from TRF and had to return it, the workmanship was poor. Specifically the width of the stitched verticals varied quite a bit -- some too narrow, some too wide. They agreed and took them back. Disappointing because these were touted as coming from an original supplier in the UK. Got the leather kit from Moss and it was perfect. The seats in my TR3A are from Moss and the leather is perfect after 22 years of hard use -- however the the white piping has cracked and broken in many areas. My TRF experience is likely rare, possibly unique and they did stand behind it. Geo On Fri, Mar 16, 2012 at 10:52 AM, spook01 at comcast.net wrote: > Who has the best seat kit for the TR4? TRF? From spook01 at comcast.net Mon Mar 19 09:20:46 2012 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2012 10:20:46 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Litezupp?= Message-ID: Just installed my litzupp bulbs and they are fantastic! Super fast service, questions answered personally. I installed the replacement flasher recommended (from autozone, $8.89) and everything works like a champ! I think this is a great upgrade to prevent idiots following from shortening your car. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Geo Hahn" To: "spook01 at comcast.net" Cc: "triumph list" Subject: [TR] Upholstery Date: Mon, Mar 19, 2012 09:57 I got the TR4 leather seat kit from TRF and had to return it, the workmanship was poor.B Specifically the width of the stitched verticals varied quite a bit -- some too narrow, some too wide.B They agreed and took them back.B Disappointing because these were touted as coming fromB an original supplier in the UK. B Got the leather kit from Moss and it was perfect.B The seats in my TR3A are from Moss and the leather is perfect after 22 years of hard use -- however the the white piping has cracked and broken in many areas. B My TRF experience is likely rare, possibly unique and they did stand behind it.B Geo On Fri, Mar 16, 2012 at 10:52 AM, spook01 at comcast.net wrote: Who has the best seat kit for the TR4? B TRF? From eoot at citlink.net Mon Mar 19 09:40:56 2012 From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2012 11:40:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Oil leak Best solution? Message-ID: <20CF34CCB5C949A1897E061C77D05C3A@Office> I have found a rather significant amount of oil leaking from what appears to be a plug just above the oil filter and below the fuel pump. What is the purpose of this plug and what is the best way to deal with the leak. I don't see an easy way to extract it. As always, advice is greatly appreciated! Ed From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Mar 19 12:10:35 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2012 14:10:35 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Litezupp Message-ID: <86d10.4ca21036.3c98d09a@cs.com> In a message dated 3/19/2012 10:21:43 AM Central Daylight Time, spook01 at comcast.net writes: > Just installed my litzupp bulbs and they are fantastic! Super fast > service, questions answered personally. > I installed the replacement flasher recommended (from autozone, $8.89) and > everything works like a champ! > I think this is a great upgrade to prevent idiots following from > shortening your car. > Not cheap, though. But I'm happy with the Brake/Tail and the Turn Signals on my TR6. When you consider the wiring for the standard bulbs were marginal, converting over to these makes the wiring comfortably over-designed. Dave From ptegler at verizon.net Mon Mar 19 12:17:22 2012 From: ptegler at verizon.net (ptegler at verizon.net) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2012 13:17:22 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 Oil leak Best solution? Message-ID: <893230729.98091.1332181042471.JavaMail.root@vznit170072> /local/mailman/lynxXXXXSddJ4g: Permission denied From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Mon Mar 19 14:43:04 2012 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2012 16:43:04 -0400 Subject: [TR] Upholstery In-Reply-To: References: <20120316175734.C19362D0AC9@autox.team.net> Message-ID: Was going to start out with a toungue in cheek but just going to say it. Bought vinyl seat kit from trf 15 years ago and they started failing a few years ago. The white piping is going bad at the flex points. I feel that I have gotten very hood service from them and will buy from trf again. I've put at least 50k miles on them. Between that and years I'm very happy. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Mar 19 16:02:00 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2012 15:02:00 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 ZS won'y idle Update In-Reply-To: References: <617E3F1F677E4BE3BD3F96159D926C49@Office><003001cd051e$163d8260$0301a8c0@randall><4F668B75.2000005@charter.net> <4F66A26C.7010305@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <042601cd061b$ea0bfbf0$be23f3d0$@rr.com> > I took a look at the carbs that came out and noticed that the idle > screws > were down much further that I had tried. In fact. they were down > enough > that the pin that the lever pushes against is totally depressed. What > is > the purpose of that pin? I don't see it in my books. It sounds like you are describing the pin that operates the float vent valve on later TR6. It is supposed to be spring-loaded, so pushing on the pin doesn't hold the throttle open. But when the vacuum retard is disabled, sometimes the pin bottoms out before the throttle is closed far enough. Should be an adjustment somewhere for how far the pin gets pushed. There are some pictures and a description in the article at http://goo.gl/DTw1D However, my early Stag has a different arrangement (which I think maybe was also used on some TR6), so your car may not look exactly the same. Although there is an adjustment screw for the pin on my carbs, I had to bend a clip in the linkage to get the throttle to close. -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Mar 19 19:28:30 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2012 18:28:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 ZS won'y idle In-Reply-To: <4F66A26C.7010305@bradakis.com> References: <617E3F1F677E4BE3BD3F96159D926C49@Office> <003001cd051e$163d8260$0301a8c0@randall> <4F668B75.2000005@charter.net> <4F66A26C.7010305@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <000901cd0638$c22df760$4689e620$@rr.com> > When they work, they work very well. When they get a speck of whatever > in them > they don't work very well at all. Fred Thomas was kind enough to volunteer (I did NOT ask) to let me drive his beautiful TR3A during the 2003 combined VTR/Summer party in PA. It was fitted with an electric fuel pump, pressure regulator, paper element fuel filter, nearly new fuel lines, and Grose Jets. While cruising along at about 50 mph, I suddenly smelled fuel. Pulled over, and a slick started forming on the wet road (it was also raining at the time). I tried blowing through the Grose Jet on the offending carb, but it continued to leak. Fortunately, Fred had thrown the old float valves in the tool box, so it was a relatively easy matter to put them back (with his permission, of course). AFAIK he never replaced the valves again, and never had a problem again. I don't know what the issue was, but I do know that, with the stock valves, I would have been back on the road in just a minute or two (undo the nut, turn the lid over, pull out the pin, turn the lid back over your palm to get the needle out, wipe the needle with your fingers, reassemble and go), instead of spending half an hour standing in the rain futzing with a valve that cannot be disassembled for cleaning or inspection. On my personal TR3A, I used only the original sediment bowl for a filter and drove it almost every day for almost 20 years. In all that time, I can think of only once that I had a float valve problem; and applied the solution above. I was literally back on the freeway within a couple of minutes. Just anecdotes, don't prove anything. But I still think Grose Jets are a solution in search of a problem, at least for SU H6 carbs. Possibly they are more effective on other carbs, I don't know. But every other carbureted vehicle that I've ever owned (GM, Chrysler, Ford, Audi, White, Yamaha, Honda) has used valves similar to the stock TR3 valves, and practically every float valve problem I've ever had was due to bad floats or worn/broken pivots, not a problem with the valve itself. Steel bearing balls have got to be cheaper in large quantities than those brass valve needles. If the balls were really better (or even just as good), I think you'd see at least someone else using them. -- Randall From glemon at neb.rr.com Mon Mar 19 20:12:46 2012 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2012 21:12:46 -0500 Subject: [TR] Valve Clearance In-Reply-To: <009401cd0470$6fbf03d0$0301a8c0@randall> References: <58BB3E8B-81C1-455B-9399-72FF67DF96A8@execulink.com><01a001cd03d5$dc903c90$95b0b5b0$@rr.com><10265E49DA764BA8852DB99949CD6FCA@bboffice> <009401cd0470$6fbf03d0$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <94AE31AFB0C84FF6BF10196E451965F8@GregPC> I have notice on another thread discussion of valve lash if you have a non-stock cam how the cam grind can affect valve adjustment. So here is my question. I have a TR250 with a very mild cam grind. The grind is very similar in specs to the TR5 cam, though not identical, lift and duration are very close. The cam grinder's lash spec is .014" stock is .010". However, the cam grind data is from a "British Performance" generic cam grind sheet, not specifcally for a TR250/6 motor. I did some research and the spec for the TR5 grind is if anything slightly more agressive than what I have (very slightly), and the valve lash for a TR5 is the same as stock TR250, .010". I have it set to .010" and all seems fine, idles good, accelerates smoothly and strong, etc. Any thoughts, .010"?, .014"?, split the difference .012"? Greg Lemon 68 TR250 From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Mar 19 20:34:23 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2012 22:34:23 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 ZS won'y idle Update Message-ID: <924a5.30d30c28.3c9946af@cs.com> You didn't say what year your car is. If it is a 73 or later it is fitted with the Anti-Run-On system. This system applies a mild vacuum to the float chamber when you shut down which has the effect of starving the engine for gas so it doesn't run on. There is a tube running to the charcoal canister that vents the top side of the fuel bowl. There is another port at the carb inlet face (inside the air filter) that also vents the top side of the float bowl. The lever to which you refer operates a valve that switches between the two. When the throttle is closed the bowl is vented to the charcoal canister. Open the throttle and the port at the carb inlet is used. Dave In a message dated 3/19/2012 7:57:32 AM Central Daylight Time, eoot at citlink.net writes: > I took a look at the carbs that came out and noticed that the idle screws > > were down much further that I had tried. In fact. they were down enough > that the pin that the lever pushes against is totally depressed. What is > the purpose of that pin? I don't see it in my books. Anyway, I then set > the screw down to approx. the same setting. This pretty much bottomed out > > the adjustment (screw appears shorter than on old carbs). Started the car > and it idles at 8 to 900 without the choke pulled at all. Is the most > likely > reason for this the cam? (which was in the car when I got it)..I will > check > the valve lash as I did find the specs on it. Big difference from stock. > I > show stock at .010 while this cam spec is .015 inlet, .017 exh. This seem > > plausible? From dixie4.wales at virgin.net Mon Mar 19 21:15:14 2012 From: dixie4.wales at virgin.net (Dixie) Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2012 03:15:14 -0000 Subject: [TR] Valve Clearance References: <58BB3E8B-81C1-455B-9399-72FF67DF96A8@execulink.com><01a001cd03d5$dc903c90$95b0b5b0$@rr.com><10265E49DA764BA8852DB99949CD6FCA@bboffice><009401cd0470$6fbf03d0$0301a8c0@randall> <94AE31AFB0C84FF6BF10196E451965F8@GregPC> Message-ID: On a performance camshaft the gaps are almost always set slightly wide. The theory is that it creates a shock wave to the valve which is supposed to improve the efficiency. Personally I would stick with 0.10" I hate rattly tappets. Adrian TR4A CT64306 O Wales UK ----- Original Message ----- From: "Greg Lemon" Cc: Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2012 2:12 AM Subject: [TR] Valve Clearance >I have notice on another thread discussion of valve lash if you have a >non-stock cam how the cam grind can affect valve adjustment. > > So here is my question. I have a TR250 with a very mild cam grind. > > The grind is very similar in specs to the TR5 cam, though not identical, > lift and duration are very close. > > The cam grinder's lash spec is .014" stock is .010". However, the cam > grind data is from a "British Performance" generic cam grind sheet, not > specifcally for > a TR250/6 motor. > > I did some research and the spec for the TR5 grind is if anything slightly > more agressive than what I have (very slightly), and the valve lash for a > TR5 is the > same as stock TR250, .010". > > I have it set to .010" and all seems fine, idles good, accelerates > smoothly and strong, etc. > > Any thoughts, .010"?, .014"?, split the difference .012"? > > Greg Lemon > 68 TR250 > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dixie4.wales at virgin.net From pcaffrey at ymail.com Mon Mar 19 22:39:36 2012 From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2012 21:39:36 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR4A-Door Striker Gear Cover Message-ID: <1332218376.60831.YahooMailClassic@web162202.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Hi List, The cover that encases the striker gear on the driver's side door pops out on occasion leaving the small gear on the pavement. How do I get that cover to stay on? Thank you for any advice. Pat TR4A '67 1CTC/72746-L From deruiterville at hotmail.com Tue Mar 20 05:42:37 2012 From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter) Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2012 06:42:37 -0500 Subject: [TR] Upholstery In-Reply-To: <20120316175719.574EE2D0A64@autox.team.net> References: <20120316175719.574EE2D0A64@autox.team.net> Message-ID: I just finished installation of a Moss vinyl seat kit in my late TR4. I'm very pleased with it. Don't have a means of comparing to TRF, but I see no defects in the Moss kit. > From: spook01 at comcast.net >> > Who has the best seat kit for the TR4? TRF? From eoot at citlink.net Tue Mar 20 07:27:13 2012 From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot) Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2012 09:27:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 ZS won'y idle Update References: <924a5.30d30c28.3c9946af@cs.com> Message-ID: Dave The car is a 77 TVR 2500M, so its the late model carbs. That said, the charcoal canister is long gone, so no can and no tubes. That said, if I am understanding the function correctly of the valve, to have the pin fully depressed at idle is actually the intention? ( or at least accepatable) ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, March 19, 2012 10:34 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 ZS won'y idle Update > You didn't say what year your car is. If it is a 73 or later it is fitted > with the Anti-Run-On system. This system applies a mild vacuum to the > float > chamber when you shut down which has the effect of starving the engine for > gas so it doesn't run on. There is a tube running to the charcoal > canister > that vents the top side of the fuel bowl. There is another port at the > carb > inlet face (inside the air filter) that also vents the top side of the > float bowl. The lever to which you refer operates a valve that switches > between > the two. When the throttle is closed the bowl is vented to the charcoal > canister. Open the throttle and the port at the carb inlet is used. > > Dave > > In a message dated 3/19/2012 7:57:32 AM Central Daylight Time, > eoot at citlink.net writes: >> I took a look at the carbs that came out and noticed that the idle screws >> >> were down much further that I had tried. In fact. they were down enough >> that the pin that the lever pushes against is totally depressed. What is >> the purpose of that pin? I don't see it in my books. Anyway, I then set >> the screw down to approx. the same setting. This pretty much bottomed >> out >> >> the adjustment (screw appears shorter than on old carbs). Started the car >> and it idles at 8 to 900 without the choke pulled at all. Is the most >> likely >> reason for this the cam? (which was in the car when I got it)..I will >> check >> the valve lash as I did find the specs on it. Big difference from stock. >> I >> show stock at .010 while this cam spec is .015 inlet, .017 exh. This >> seem >> >> plausible? > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/eoot at citlink.net From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Mar 20 07:53:49 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2012 06:53:49 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 ZS won'y idle Update In-Reply-To: References: <924a5.30d30c28.3c9946af@cs.com> Message-ID: <008c01cd06a0$e1208030$0301a8c0@randall> > the > charcoal canister is long gone, so no can and no tubes. So, is the bowl vent line capped off or open to the atmosphere? If it is capped off, or worse yet, linked to the carb purge port, you may get strange problems like dying at idle or inability to set the mixture properly. > to have > the pin fully > depressed at idle is actually the intention? Yup. Besides the anti-runon valve as Dave mentioned, any gasoline vapor from the float bowl with the engine idling or stopped is routed to the carbon canister (originally). Then when you open the throttle, the vent is routed to the air filter instead, to ensure that there is no pressure differential (which would upset the mixture). -- Randall From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Mar 20 08:32:45 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2012 10:32:45 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 ZS won'y idle Update Message-ID: <37568.124cb570.3c99ef0d@cs.com> In a message dated 3/20/2012 8:27:18 AM Central Daylight Time, eoot at citlink.net writes: > The car is a 77 TVR 2500M, so its the late model carbs. That said, the > charcoal canister is long gone, so no can and no tubes. That said, if I > am > understanding the function correctly of the valve, to have the pin fully > depressed at idle is actually the intention? ( or at least accepatable) > I will have to have a look at mine. It's been years since I've fiddled with them and I can't recall if this determines the idle setting or not. Dave From eoot at citlink.net Tue Mar 20 08:52:49 2012 From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot) Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2012 10:52:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 ZS won'y idle Update References: <924a5.30d30c28.3c9946af@cs.com> <008c01cd06a0$e1208030$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <1D90B60D075849AB9D3745698BC78902@Office> Randall it is not capped off but is vented to the atmosphere. The only thing I am aware of that is capped off is on the rear carb and I believe was a line that ran to the egr valve (also no longer in existence). ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "'Ed Oot'" ; Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2012 9:53 AM Subject: RE: [TR] TR6 ZS won'y idle Update >> the >> charcoal canister is long gone, so no can and no tubes. > > So, is the bowl vent line capped off or open to the atmosphere? If it is > capped off, or worse yet, linked to the carb purge port, you may get > strange > problems like dying at idle or inability to set the mixture properly. > >> to have >> the pin fully >> depressed at idle is actually the intention? > > Yup. Besides the anti-runon valve as Dave mentioned, any gasoline vapor > from the float bowl with the engine idling or stopped is routed to the > carbon canister (originally). Then when you open the throttle, the vent > is > routed to the air filter instead, to ensure that there is no pressure > differential (which would upset the mixture). > > -- Randall From keithstewart at execulink.com Tue Mar 20 09:27:30 2012 From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart) Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2012 11:27:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 ZS won'y idle In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1CA6DFC2-8D76-403C-9B36-577C6E9559A7@execulink.com> On Mon, 19 Mar 2012, at 18:28, Randall wrote: > > Fred Thomas was kind enough to volunteer (I did NOT ask) to let me drive his > beautiful TR3A during the 2003 combined VTR/Summer party in PA. It was > fitted with an electric fuel pump, pressure regulator, paper element fuel > filter, nearly new fuel lines, and Grose Jets. > > While cruising along at about 50 mph, I suddenly smelled fuel. Pulled over, > and a slick started forming on the wet road (it was also raining at the > time). Now that brought me my morning laugh :-) Remembering that weekend and the mess the field became, the heavy rain leading up to the event, and almost non-stop rain through the weekend; stating "it was raining at the time" does seem to be a bit of an understatement! :-) Keith R. Stewart London, Ontario E-Mail: keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom From tr3 at roadrunner.com Tue Mar 20 12:17:37 2012 From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (Hdefer) Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2012 11:17:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] Erratic Speedometer Message-ID: <251416DA-E1AC-40A5-B5D0-805E3A5ADFFF@roadrunner.com> Thanks list, for all the advise. I bit the bullet, took the whole thing apart, cleaned and oiled it with special ( supposedly non- gumming ) clock oil and it performs beautifully. The standard "factory calibration", by setting the pointer at the the dot on the the scale, calibrated it to within a couple mph at 45 mph, according to one of those flashing digital speed monitors along the road. Haven't figured how to easily calibrate it at higher speeds yet, but at least it is perfectly steady all the way to at least 80 mph. Hard to tell what was the main culprit -- probably a number of contributors. The needle bearing of the pointer spindle was prime suspect which had little blobs of a sticky substance in it. Other probable causes are, as Randall pointed out, the odometer and trip counter ratchet drive mechanisms which were quite gummed up and stiff. Could find any wear,even with a good magnifying glass. A word of caution. If you plan to do this (actually a piece of cake), be careful not to lose that tiny micro extension spring in the counter ratchet as I did. This little spring, as far as I can tell, is made of .005 to .007" dia. wire, a coil dia. of .125" and a free length of about .750". Where am I going to find that? Ah well, I'll just have to go without the trip counter, unless someone out there is parting one out. The link below was very helpful. Hans, '61TR3A http://www.scribd.com/doc/19788252/Repairing-Jaeger-Smiths-Speedometers On Mar 16, 2012, at 7:22 AM, wrote: I have about 3500 miles on my re-built speedo, rock solid and accurate. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Mar 20 12:55:39 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2012 11:55:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] Erratic Speedometer In-Reply-To: <251416DA-E1AC-40A5-B5D0-805E3A5ADFFF@roadrunner.com> References: <251416DA-E1AC-40A5-B5D0-805E3A5ADFFF@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: <00b901cd06cb$0b75f520$2261df60$@rr.com> > Ah well, I'll > just have to go without the trip counter, unless someone out there is > parting one out. I think I've got several spares. -- Randall From keithstewart at execulink.com Tue Mar 20 13:08:51 2012 From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart) Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2012 15:08:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Headlight Machine Screw Size In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: After having the nose section of my TR3 painted, I am reinstalling the headlight buckets and gaskets. There is a flat gasket between the headlight bucket and the body. There is a "flat one side, lip on the other side" flange that goes over the three adjusting screws in the headlight bucket and then rotates into position. The body work has 10/32" nuts inserted into square holes around the perimeter of the opening for the bucket - three on each side. As I re-install the 1/2" long, 10/32" machine screws, I notice that about half of them are round head and half are pan head. More importantly, the head of one type fits completely through the holes in the flange whereas the other type does not pass through the flange. My question - do these machine screws pass through the flange, bucket, the gasket and into the 10/32" nuts on the body work? or Do the machine screws pass through the bucket and gasket only and then into the 10/32" nuts with the flange being placed on and rotated after the bucket has been tightened down to the body work? The first sequence would mean some of the machine screw heads would secure the flange to the bucket because the heads would not pass through the flange. The second sequence would mean the screws are intended to secure only the bucket to the body work and the flange is intended to rotate. The flange referred to above is the one to which the inner chromed ring is secured by three sheet metal screws in order to hold the headlight in place before the outer chromed rim is snapped into place. This was tough (and wordy) to describe, but hopefully you get the idea. Thanks. Keith R. Stewart London, Ontario E-Mail: keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom From eoot at citlink.net Tue Mar 20 13:30:47 2012 From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot) Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2012 15:30:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Oil leak Best solution? References: <893230729.98091.1332181042471.JavaMail.root@vznit170072> Message-ID: <28AEEF31FD414C9FB019551A2BA3661D@Office> On closer inspection it does not appear that this has been smashed with a BFH, It does appear that an attempt has been made to slot it but it's in rough shape. It also appears to have a few threads showing. Is it a reasonable approach to try to get hold on it with vise grips? Is it going to be necessary to remove oil filter and fuel pump to attack it? Has anyone had success getting it out with the engine in the car? Should I just consider buying it some Depends? ----- Original Message ----- From: ptegler at verizon.net To: eoot at citlink.net Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, March 19, 2012 2:17 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Oil leak Best solution? woah...the flush-ish 'bludge' in the casting right above the filter? this is an aluminum slug, threaded into the block to seal off the casting hole allowing access to the oil gallery. when plumbing FIS6's remote filter (no clearance for the right angle adapter even) I plumbed hydraulic lines right into that hole as well as the one forward of the filter. After the plug is screwed in, it is smashed with a BFH to finish the sealing. You can either cut a big A__ slot in it with a Dremel cutoff wheel for a screw driver, or find you'll have to do what I did and weld an aluminum 'wing' to it to remove it.But if it's leaking it may unscrew more readily than mine did. oh...hhmmmm..... yep ...pic at..well actual story at http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/spit6whiteyFI/spit6whiteyFI_oilfilte r.html Paul Tegler ptegler at verizon.net www.teglerizer.com Mar 19, 2012 11:53:34 AM, eoot at citlink.net wrote: I have found a rather significant amount of oil leaking from what appears to be a plug just above the oil filter and below the fuel pump. What is the purpose of this plug and what is the best way to deal with the leak. I don't see an easy way to extract it. As always, advice is greatly appreciated! Ed ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Tue Mar 20 14:30:39 2012 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2012 13:30:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] Erratic Speedometer In-Reply-To: <251416DA-E1AC-40A5-B5D0-805E3A5ADFFF@roadrunner.com> References: <251416DA-E1AC-40A5-B5D0-805E3A5ADFFF@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: On Tue, Mar 20, 2012 at 11:17 AM, Hdefer wrote: > ...Haven't figured how to easily calibrate it at higher speeds yet, but > at least it is perfectly steady all the way to at least 80 mph. > We use a GPS -- I call out the speed as I drive and my wife keeps a charts of GPS v what I call. Leave the head unit loose and pull into a parking lot to open it for quick small adjustment. Of course the error is often non-linear so perhaps the best you can do is make it very accurate at a speed that is important to you and settle for fairly accurate everywhere else. Geo From anabil007 at comcast.net Tue Mar 20 15:01:19 2012 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh) Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2012 14:01:19 -0700 Subject: [TR] Erratic Speedometer In-Reply-To: References: <251416DA-E1AC-40A5-B5D0-805E3A5ADFFF@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: <7B568C71-D06F-4257-A087-285554BCDF29@comcast.net> If it is that critical, you could always but a Smiths Electronic Self Calibrating Speedometer .. On Mar 20, 2012, at 1:30 PM, Geo Hahn wrote: > On Tue, Mar 20, 2012 at 11:17 AM, Hdefer wrote: > >> ...Haven't figured how to easily calibrate it at higher speeds yet, but >> at least it is perfectly steady all the way to at least 80 mph. >> > > > We use a GPS -- I call out the speed as I drive and my wife keeps a charts > of GPS v what I call. Leave the head unit loose and pull into a parking > lot to open it for quick small adjustment. > > Of course the error is often non-linear so perhaps the best you can do is > make it very accurate at a speed that is important to you and settle for > fairly accurate everywhere else. > William Pugh anabil007 at comcast.net From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Mar 20 17:01:07 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2012 16:01:07 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Headlight Machine Screw Size In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <00f501cd06ed$55cf7ed0$016e7c70$@rr.com> > My question - do these machine screws pass through the flange, bucket, > the > gasket and into the 10/32" nuts on the body work? The bucket should be screwed to the gasket and body independently of the "flange" (which I would call a lamp holder) or retaining ring. Then the lamp holder is held to the bucket by either 3 adjusting screws with springs on them, or 2 adjusting screws and a single larger spring. The earlier 3 screw version has keyhole-shaped slots that will fit over the heads of the adjusting screws, but the later 2-screw design does not as I recall. Then there is a retaining ring held to the lamp holder by three much smaller screws (I think mine are #6 sheet metal screws, about 1/4" long, but that probably isn't original). The lamp holder has holes in it so you can access the bucket-to-body screws without having to remove the lamp holder first. -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Mar 20 17:15:15 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2012 16:15:15 -0700 Subject: [TR] Valve Clearance In-Reply-To: <94AE31AFB0C84FF6BF10196E451965F8@GregPC> References: <58BB3E8B-81C1-455B-9399-72FF67DF96A8@execulink.com><01a001cd03d5$dc903c90$95b0b5b0$@rr.com><10265E49DA764BA8852DB99949CD6FCA@bboffice> <009401cd0470$6fbf03d0$0301a8c0@randall> <94AE31AFB0C84FF6BF10196E451965F8@GregPC> Message-ID: <00f901cd06ef$5142b8d0$f3c82a70$@rr.com> > Any thoughts, .010"?, .014"?, split the difference .012"? Personally, for the street, I'd go with the cam grinder's spec. There is a whole LOT more to camshaft design than is revealed by the lift and duration numbers. Here is a brief article on how the lash is determined (going through these steps would be my second choice): http://goo.gl/synzC There is a lot more on that site about camshaft design, which I think makes for interesting reading. -- Randall From rbtr3a at cox.net Tue Mar 20 17:22:11 2012 From: rbtr3a at cox.net (Ronnie Babbitt) Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2012 19:22:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] Dome oil Message-ID: <82E72901-A407-4D95-85AC-01F1E6F01EA7@cox.net> I don't want to start a marathon thread. But what is the consensus as to what oil should I use for zenith stromberg Carbs From eoot at citlink.net Tue Mar 20 18:05:22 2012 From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot) Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2012 20:05:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] Dome oil In-Reply-To: <82E72901-A407-4D95-85AC-01F1E6F01EA7@cox.net> References: <82E72901-A407-4D95-85AC-01F1E6F01EA7@cox.net> Message-ID: <20a0f38f-8014-4177-9d63-70568fe35e40@email.android.com> I took the advice of Jeff at paltech who rebuilt mine, and used ATF, F type. Sent from my Kindle Fire _____________________________________________ From: Ronnie Babbitt Sent: Tue Mar 20 19:22:11 EDT 2012 To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" Subject: [TR] Dome oil I don't want to start a marathon thread. But what is the consensus as to what oil should I use for zenith stromberg Carbs ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/eoot at citlink.net From ptegler at verizon.net Tue Mar 20 18:08:38 2012 From: ptegler at verizon.net (ptegler) Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2012 20:08:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] Dome oil References: <82E72901-A407-4D95-85AC-01F1E6F01EA7@cox.net> Message-ID: <9CB65B74C9794F3BA5AB6FDD397CE111@dragonlairii> oil weight is quite literally the acceleration enrichment control. A thick oil will make it run richer by slowing the response of the piston, increasing air velocity over the bridge drawing more fuel a thinner oil will let the piston rise more rapidly, shortening the enrichment time. Start wit ha thin oil...even 3-in-1 Try a couple of accel runs. Then try motor oil and feel the difference. Select something in between to suite your desire. (and feel of the set of your pants) Yes...seasonal temperatures make a big difference as well. Old books say use the same engine oil as in the sump for the season. Paul Tegler ptegler at verizon.net www.teglerizer.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ronnie Babbitt" To: Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2012 7:22 PM Subject: [TR] Dome oil >I don't want to start a marathon thread. But what is the consensus as to >what > oil should I use for zenith stromberg Carbs > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net From keithstewart at execulink.com Tue Mar 20 18:40:06 2012 From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart) Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2012 20:40:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Headlight Machine Screw Size In-Reply-To: <00f501cd06ed$55cf7ed0$016e7c70$@rr.com> References: <00f501cd06ed$55cf7ed0$016e7c70$@rr.com> Message-ID: Thanks Randall. That is what I guessed but I did want to be sure. My TR3 is a 57, so it is not really "early" unless you include 3As as part of the count and the set up is the three adjuster set up exactly as you describe. Another difference between the three adjuster version (as on my 57 TR3) and the two adjuster version as on the 3A and my 62 TR4. is that with the three adjuster, the gasket is flat and the adjuster screws and springs go through the gasket and holes in the body work. With the two adjuster version, the gasket has two "pockets" for the adjuster screws and springs, so they are sealed off on the body work side of the holes. You are also right about the #6 sheet metal screws to hold the retainer ring to the lamp holder. All of which gives rise to another question. With everything installed as described, the bucket fits tight to the gasket and body work. What I described as a flange and you referred to as a lamp holder presses over the three adjuster screws and then rotates into a locked position (at this point, there is no lamp in place which is why I used the term flange). Now, the lamp is put into place and the 3 #6 screws attach the retaining ring to the flange/lamp holder. In that position, the bottom of the entire assembly (flange, lamp, retaining ring) sits substantially proud of the body work. In a way, that makes sense since there are three adjusting screws on the top half holding the assembly to the bucket but nothing on the bottom half. What am I missing? Or, what have I done wrong? Again, thanks for all your help. Keith R. Stewart 75 Camden Road London, Ontario N5X 2K2 Home: (519) 660-1916 E-Mail: keithstewart at execulink.com On 2012-03-20, at 7:01 PM, Randall wrote: >> My question - do these machine screws pass through the flange, bucket, >> the >> gasket and into the 10/32" nuts on the body work? > > The bucket should be screwed to the gasket and body independently of the > "flange" (which I would call a lamp holder) or retaining ring. Then the > lamp holder is held to the bucket by either 3 adjusting screws with springs > on them, or 2 adjusting screws and a single larger spring. The earlier 3 > screw version has keyhole-shaped slots that will fit over the heads of the > adjusting screws, but the later 2-screw design does not as I recall. Then > there is a retaining ring held to the lamp holder by three much smaller > screws (I think mine are #6 sheet metal screws, about 1/4" long, but that > probably isn't original). The lamp holder has holes in it so you can access > the bucket-to-body screws without having to remove the lamp holder first. > > -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Mar 20 20:15:02 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2012 19:15:02 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Headlight Machine Screw Size In-Reply-To: References: <00f501cd06ed$55cf7ed0$016e7c70$@rr.com> Message-ID: <013501cd0708$6d408490$47c18db0$@rr.com> > the set up is the three adjuster set up exactly as you describe. Ok, I wasn't sure. Sometimes parts get mixed up; and sometimes folks don't use the "TR3A" terminology. (Which makes sense, as the factory generally did not as well.) > In that position, the bottom of the entire assembly (flange, > lamp, > retaining ring) sits substantially proud of the body work. In a way, > that > makes sense since there are three adjusting screws on the top half > holding the > assembly to the bucket but nothing on the bottom half. What am I > missing? Or, > what have I done wrong? Nothing wrong, that is the way it should be. The three adjusting screws are enough to hold it in place; and the trim ring will cover the gap. You can reduce the protrusion a bit by tightening all the adjusting screws evenly (so the alignment stays the same), but I didn't bother. The lamps do protrude kind of a long way from the body; which I suspect is why the TR3A had the mounting surface somewhat recessed behind the front of the apron. BTW, it's probably best to complete the headlight alignment before installing the trim rings. Mine were really, really tight, I'm not sure I'll be able to get them off again without damage. -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Mar 20 20:19:03 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2012 19:19:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] Dome oil In-Reply-To: <9CB65B74C9794F3BA5AB6FDD397CE111@dragonlairii> References: <82E72901-A407-4D95-85AC-01F1E6F01EA7@cox.net> <9CB65B74C9794F3BA5AB6FDD397CE111@dragonlairii> Message-ID: <013601cd0708$fc983a20$f5c8ae60$@rr.com> > Try a couple of accel runs. Then > try motor oil and feel the difference. > Select something in between to suite your desire. (and feel of the set > of your pants) FWIW, I did exactly that with my 59 TR3A, trying everything from ATF to 50 weight motor oil. My choice was straight 20 weight. Your choice will probably be different. The 56 seems like it could use a bit more enrichment, but I don't really have everything else dialed in yet so I haven't experimented with dashpot oil. -- Randall From keithstewart at execulink.com Tue Mar 20 20:44:16 2012 From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart) Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2012 22:44:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Headlight Machine Screw Size In-Reply-To: <013501cd0708$6d408490$47c18db0$@rr.com> References: <00f501cd06ed$55cf7ed0$016e7c70$@rr.com> <013501cd0708$6d408490$47c18db0$@rr.com> Message-ID: On 2012-03-20, at 10:15 PM, Randall wrote: > > BTW, it's probably best to complete the headlight alignment before > installing the trim rings. Mine were really, really tight, I'm not sure > I'll be able to get them off again without damage. > > -- Randall > Thanks. I have a bit to go before I get to that stage. The nose clip is off the car and I am installing the lights and grille surround - not the grille yet - before attaching the nose clip back on the car. Much easier to access the attachment points - and a much better working height - this way. Then I can do the headlight alignment. Once again, thanks for your help. Keith R. Stewart London, Ontario E-Mail: keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom From dave at ranteer.com Tue Mar 20 20:45:09 2012 From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave) Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2012 21:45:09 -0500 Subject: [TR] Dome oil In-Reply-To: <82E72901-A407-4D95-85AC-01F1E6F01EA7@cox.net> References: <82E72901-A407-4D95-85AC-01F1E6F01EA7@cox.net> Message-ID: <0663D48D26214522A7B43303B33C53C1@ranteer.local> I use marvel magic mystery oil. triple carb TR6 -------------------------------------------------- From: "Ronnie Babbitt" Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2012 6:22 PM To: Subject: [TR] Dome oil > I don't want to start a marathon thread. But what is the consensus as to > what > oil should I use for zenith stromberg Carbs From glemon at neb.rr.com Tue Mar 20 21:22:10 2012 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2012 22:22:10 -0500 Subject: [TR] Dome oil In-Reply-To: <0663D48D26214522A7B43303B33C53C1@ranteer.local> References: <82E72901-A407-4D95-85AC-01F1E6F01EA7@cox.net> <0663D48D26214522A7B43303B33C53C1@ranteer.local> Message-ID: I have used all sorts of stuff and it all works fine, ATF, 20W, 5W-30, 30W, the Stuff Moss sells, no discernable difference by my seat of the pants in various cars over the years. If you have a modern car that uses the ultra thin stuff 5w-20, and have some spare sitting around, that would probably be good as well. Only failure was when I tried WD40 as a teen on my first car, thought it would increase response/acceleration, definitely too thin, sputter and miss on acceleration. Greg Lemon From mark at bradakis.com Tue Mar 20 22:31:13 2012 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Tue, 20 Mar 2012 22:31:13 -0600 Subject: [TR] Dome oil In-Reply-To: References: <82E72901-A407-4D95-85AC-01F1E6F01EA7@cox.net> <0663D48D26214522A7B43303B33C53C1@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <4F695991.3040706@bradakis.com> Years ago I used some air tool oil simply because it was handy and in a convenient squirt bottle. Haven't had a running car for a while, but I'll probably use it on the next car I have that needs it. It isn't needed on Webers ;-) When I was working at Bailey's here in Salt Lake we always used the dashpot oil that Moss sells. mjb. From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk Wed Mar 21 03:05:48 2012 From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2012 09:05:48 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] Dome oil In-Reply-To: <82E72901-A407-4D95-85AC-01F1E6F01EA7@cox.net> References: <82E72901-A407-4D95-85AC-01F1E6F01EA7@cox.net> Message-ID: <1332320748.52681.YahooMailNeo@web29403.mail.ird.yahoo.com> My factory manual is quite specific on using 20W/50 engine oil for both Strombergs and SU. I've experimented in the past with various oils and grades but always returned to 20/50. Jonmac ________________________________ From: Ronnie Babbitt To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" Sent: Tuesday, 20 March 2012, 23:22 Subject: [TR] Dome oil >I don't want to start a marathon thread. But what is the consensus as to what >oil should I use for zenith stromberg Carbs > >** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk From buik57389 at yahoo.com Wed Mar 21 07:32:21 2012 From: buik57389 at yahoo.com (karl sisson) Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2012 06:32:21 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Dome oil Message-ID: <1332336741.218.YahooMailMobile@web65403.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> How about extra virgin olive oil? :-) From allenhess at mgcarclub.com Wed Mar 21 09:41:26 2012 From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess) Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2012 11:41:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] Dome oil In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On Mar 20, 2012, at 10:15 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > oil weight is quite literally the acceleration enrichment control. > A thick oil will make it run richer by slowing the response of the > piston, increasing air velocity over the bridge drawing more fuel > a thinner oil will let the piston rise more rapidly, shortening the > enrichment time. I've no argument with the above but it always makes me ponder the following. Since a rising piston/needle also allows more fuel to flow due to a smaller needle diameter, I've always wondered about the seeming contradiction in above. Can someone elaborate a little more? Allen From tony at tonydrews.com Wed Mar 21 10:05:55 2012 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2012 11:05:55 -0500 Subject: [TR] Dome oil In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: As I understand it, the idea is that the increased velocity of the air through the venturi (due to the piston being held in position by the damper / oil) increases the vacuum that is applied at the base of the needle and which sucks more gas out of the jet tube, giving more fuel for a given quantity of air. That's what enrichens the mixture. Tony At 10:41 AM 3/21/2012, Allen Hess wrote: >On Mar 20, 2012, at 10:15 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > > oil weight is quite literally the acceleration enrichment control. > > A thick oil will make it run richer by slowing the response of the > > piston, increasing air velocity over the bridge drawing more fuel > > a thinner oil will let the piston rise more rapidly, shortening the > > enrichment time. > >I've no argument with the above but it always makes me ponder the >following. Since a rising piston/needle also allows more fuel to flow >due to a smaller needle diameter, I've always wondered about the >seeming contradiction in above. Can someone elaborate a little more? > >Allen From tr3 at roadrunner.com Wed Mar 21 10:52:51 2012 From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (Hdefer) Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2012 09:52:51 -0700 Subject: [TR] Erratic Speedometer In-Reply-To: <013c01cd070b$b505e6f0$1f11b4d0$@rr.com> References: <251416DA-E1AC-40A5-B5D0-805E3A5ADFFF@roadrunner.com> <00b901cd06cb$0b75f520$2261df60$@rr.com> <013c01cd070b$b505e6f0$1f11b4d0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <2FEF546B-BEBE-4C40-A183-F3BF2A1D09CD@roadrunner.com> I do, but some of the counter numbers got badly discolored in storage and I would be interested in them too if they still look good. Hans On Mar 20, 2012, at 7:38 PM, Randall wrote: > All of those, but I thought you just wanted a spring. > > -- Randall > > >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Hans de Ferrante [mailto:tr3 at roadrunner.com] >> Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2012 7:38 PM >> To: Randall; triumps at autox.team.net >> Subject: Re: [TR] Erratic Speedometer >> >> Hi Randall, what sort of spares? That spring, the guts, the counters? >> >> Hans >> >> >> Sent from my iPad >> >> On Mar 20, 2012, at 11:55 AM, "Randall" wrote: >> >>>> Ah well, I'll >>>> just have to go without the trip counter, unless someone out there >> is >>>> parting one out. >>> >>> I think I've got several spares. >>> >>> -- Randall From mhooper at indiefilmnet.com Wed Mar 21 11:53:00 2012 From: mhooper at indiefilmnet.com (Mark Hooper) Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2012 13:53:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] Dome oil In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <97e6304a.1cd078b.6b3addd0.6b89@indiefilmnet.com> Hi Allen: I'll have a go at that one. Keeping the piston down as the butterfly valve is opened will increase the vacuum in the carb body. Depending on the design, that could act to directly suck more fuel up the passage around the needle, rather than depending on the Venturi effect alone from the air rushing past the piston bottom. That assumes there is no inbound limit on the air vent of the fuel bowl. Of course, perhaps needle profile could use the Venturi effect alone, due to some non-uniform fuel/air ration versus vacuum at specific piston heights. There's my guess. Cheers, Mark Hooper 1972 TR6 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Allen Hess Sent: March 21, 2012 11:41 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Dome oil On Mar 20, 2012, at 10:15 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > oil weight is quite literally the acceleration enrichment control. > A thick oil will make it run richer by slowing the response of the > piston, increasing air velocity over the bridge drawing more fuel > a thinner oil will let the piston rise more rapidly, shortening the > enrichment time. I've no argument with the above but it always makes me ponder the following. Since a rising piston/needle also allows more fuel to flow due to a smaller needle diameter, I've always wondered about the seeming contradiction in above. Can someone elaborate a little more? Allen From carlsereda at aol.com Wed Mar 21 12:29:28 2012 From: carlsereda at aol.com (Carl Sereda) Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2012 14:29:28 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Carburretor Dashpot oil In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CED5A7AF2A3193-6B0-11B47@Webmail-d107.sysops.aol.com> Interestingly - the Triumph TR4 & TR4A Factory Manual (pub. 1967) specifies 20wt for Winter and 30wt for Summer, for carburettor dashpots in the British Isles. For 'Overseas' it simply states - use appropriate current single grade oil in dashpots [which may be tied into their engine recommendations of; Below 10B0 (degrees F.) use 10wt oil, Between 10B0-40B0 use 20wt, Between 40B0-70B0 use 30wt., over 70B0 use 40wt.] I've been using straight 20wt oil out of 3inOne's 'Blue Can' - but 20-50wt might be the way to go.. going to try it first chance I get! Regards, Carl '63 TR4 since '74 My factory manual is quite specific on using 20W/50 engine oil for both Strombergs and SU. I've experimented in the past with various oils and grades but always returned to 20/50. Jonmac -- From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Mar 21 13:11:46 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2012 12:11:46 -0700 Subject: [TR] Dome oil In-Reply-To: <20120321160758.6FB3A2D0634@autox.team.net> References: <20120321160758.6FB3A2D0634@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <01fe01cd0796$765b82d0$63128870$@rr.com> > As I understand it, the idea is that the increased velocity of the > air through the venturi (due to the piston being held in position by > the damper / oil) increases the vacuum that is applied at the base of > the needle and which sucks more gas out of the jet tube, giving more > fuel for a given quantity of air. That's what enrichens the mixture. Ditto. Higher velocity means more venturi effect. This is how 'normal' fixed venturi carbs flow more fuel when the air flow increases. -- Randall From davewillner at pa.net Wed Mar 21 13:49:21 2012 From: davewillner at pa.net (davewillner) Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2012 15:49:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] Aluminum bonding agent Message-ID: <5B80257373784E689A1E8DEB5D5A1463@valued9cfc0b6f> I need some advice on the availability of a very high strength aluminum bonding agent, that can be used on a gas tank, to bond the filler neck (long story...). Does anyone know of an industrial bonding product that is somewhat easy to use that will make a strong, permanent bonding seal? Thanks Dave Willner Stroudsburg PA 59 TR3A 70 MGB 70 BSA 441 VS From anabil007 at comcast.net Wed Mar 21 14:13:06 2012 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh) Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2012 13:13:06 -0700 Subject: [TR] Aluminum bonding agent In-Reply-To: <5B80257373784E689A1E8DEB5D5A1463@valued9cfc0b6f> References: <5B80257373784E689A1E8DEB5D5A1463@valued9cfc0b6f> Message-ID: <1467C411-BDF1-4D08-B577-206B7EAF73BF@comcast.net> Kent Panel Adhesive  On Mar 21, 2012, at 12:49 PM, davewillner wrote: > I need some advice on the availability of a very high strength aluminum > bonding agent, that can be used on a gas tank, to bond the filler neck (long > story...). Does anyone know of an industrial bonding product that is somewhat > easy to use that will make a strong, permanent bonding seal? Thanks > > Dave Willner > Stroudsburg PA > 59 TR3A > 70 MGB > 70 BSA 441 VS > Bill Pugh 1954 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA anabil007 at comcast.net From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Wed Mar 21 16:03:15 2012 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2012 15:03:15 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Aluminum bonding agent In-Reply-To: <5B80257373784E689A1E8DEB5D5A1463@valued9cfc0b6f> References: <5B80257373784E689A1E8DEB5D5A1463@valued9cfc0b6f> Message-ID: <1332367395.89425.YahooMailNeo@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> depending on what you are doing i might recommend a high quality silicone sealer/caulking. im not talking about the siliconised junk that the big box stores have. im thinking some thing like a DOW 795 or TREMCO silpruf. i may have a tube in the garage if you need it or would like to try it. we now "glue" glass onto the face of skysrapers with this stuff. that all holding most of the glass on new buildings. Frank From: davewillner To: triumphs at autox.team.net; mgs at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, March 21, 2012 12:49 PM Subject: [TR] Aluminum bonding agent I need some advice on the availability of a very high strength aluminum bonding agent, that can be used on a gas tank, to bond the filler neck (long story...). Does anyone know of an industrial bonding product that is somewhat easy to use that will make a strong, permanent bonding seal? Thanks Dave Willner Stroudsburg PA 59 TR3A 70 MGB 70 BSA 441 VS ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From mark at bradakis.com Wed Mar 21 16:42:26 2012 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2012 16:42:26 -0600 Subject: [TR] Fwd: [Tigers] TR6's In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4F6A5952.2010901@bradakis.com> A message from the tigers list. mjb. -------- Original Message -------- Subject: [Tigers] TR6's Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2012 04:32:21 -0700 From: steve wick To: These aren't mine and I know nothing about them, but thought if anyone here was also in to TR-6's, they might be interested. http://spokane.craigslist.org/pts/2913614517.html From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Thu Mar 22 09:34:14 2012 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2012 08:34:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] Erratic Speedometer In-Reply-To: <2FEF546B-BEBE-4C40-A183-F3BF2A1D09CD@roadrunner.com> References: <251416DA-E1AC-40A5-B5D0-805E3A5ADFFF@roadrunner.com> <00b901cd06cb$0b75f520$2261df60$@rr.com> <013c01cd070b$b505e6f0$1f11b4d0$@rr.com> <2FEF546B-BEBE-4C40-A183-F3BF2A1D09CD@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: If they are the 'embossed' style (some were others were just printed on) they can be esily repainted (which I learned after discovering how easily the original numbers can be washed off). G On Wed, Mar 21, 2012 at 9:52 AM, Hdefer wrote: > I do, but some of the counter numbers got badly discolored in storage > and I would be interested in them too if they still look good. > > Hans From tr3 at roadrunner.com Thu Mar 22 10:54:59 2012 From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (Hdefer) Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2012 09:54:59 -0700 Subject: [TR] Erratic Speedometer In-Reply-To: References: <251416DA-E1AC-40A5-B5D0-805E3A5ADFFF@roadrunner.com> <00b901cd06cb$0b75f520$2261df60$@rr.com> <013c01cd070b$b505e6f0$1f11b4d0$@rr.com> <2FEF546B-BEBE-4C40-A183-F3BF2A1D09CD@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: <2EFDD1B4-5012-4A16-A9F0-B2BA9DBFB7BD@roadrunner.com> > they can be esily repainted Mine are not embossed (wished they were) but painted on. I tried painting with special fine brushes and paints, etc. but could not do a good job without them looking quite messy. I concluded that that takes an experienced miniature artist -- not a clumsy old-timer like me. If you were successful doing your painted-on numbers, what paint and brushes do you recommend? Hans On Mar 22, 2012, at 8:34 AM, Geo Hahn wrote: > If they are the 'embossed' style (some were others were just > printed on) they can be esily repainted (which I learned after > discovering how easily the original numbers can be washed off). > > G > > On Wed, Mar 21, 2012 at 9:52 AM, Hdefer wrote: > I do, but some of the counter numbers got badly discolored in storage > and I would be interested in them too if they still look good. > > Hans From wbeech at flash.net Thu Mar 22 11:06:33 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2012 12:06:33 -0500 Subject: [TR] Lucas Batt Cap screws Message-ID: <04AC6119A9D849139B5770729663C6D1@bboffice> Got the battery cable soldered into those helmet-type Lucas post connectors. Now, what is the correct type/size of screw to secure the cap to the post? Looks like a stainless wood or sheet metal screw might do the job as I am not sure a machine thread would hold in the lead post. Thanks, Bill From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk Thu Mar 22 11:28:36 2012 From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2012 17:28:36 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] Lucas Batt Cap screws In-Reply-To: <04AC6119A9D849139B5770729663C6D1@bboffice> References: <04AC6119A9D849139B5770729663C6D1@bboffice> Message-ID: <1332437316.44105.YahooMailNeo@web29404.mail.ird.yahoo.com> The factory used a simple cheese head drive screw - about a #8 1/2" Battery posts were already pre-drilled (as were all of them in Europe) 30+ years ago. Jonmac ________________________________ From: "wbeech at flash.net" To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, 22 March 2012, 17:06 Subject: [TR] Lucas Batt Cap screws >Got the battery cable soldered into those helmet-type Lucas post connectors. > > >Now, what is the correct type/size of screw to secure the cap to the post? >Looks like a stainless wood or sheet metal screw might do the job as I am >not sure a machine thread would hold in the lead post. > >Thanks, >Bill > >** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Thu Mar 22 11:39:25 2012 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2012 10:39:25 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Lucas Batt Cap screws In-Reply-To: <1332437316.44105.YahooMailNeo@web29404.mail.ird.yahoo.com> References: <04AC6119A9D849139B5770729663C6D1@bboffice> <1332437316.44105.YahooMailNeo@web29404.mail.ird.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1332437965.28889.YahooMailNeo@web120201.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> stainless steel sheet metal screw. know as an "AB" point here in the USA. if the post is not pre drilled use a #29 drill (0.136") or try a 1/8" drill. lead post is quite soft so you may be OK with the smaller dia drill. From: John Macartney To: "wbeech at flash.net" ; "triumphs at autox.team.net" Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2012 10:28 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Lucas Batt Cap screws The factory used a simple cheese head drive screw - about a #8 1/2" Battery posts were already pre-drilled (as were all of them in Europe) 30+ years ago. Jonmac ________________________________ From: "wbeech at flash.net" To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, 22 March 2012, 17:06 Subject: [TR] Lucas Batt Cap screws >Got the battery cable soldered into those helmet-type Lucas post connectors. > > >Now, what is the correct type/size of screw to secure the cap to the post? >Looks like a stainless wood or sheet metal screw might do the job as I am >not sure a machine thread would hold in the lead post. > >Thanks, >Bill > >** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Mar 22 12:43:01 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2012 11:43:01 -0700 Subject: [TR] Lucas Batt Cap screws In-Reply-To: <1332437965.28889.YahooMailNeo@web120201.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <04AC6119A9D849139B5770729663C6D1@bboffice> <1332437316.44105.YahooMailNeo@web29404.mail.ird.yahoo.com> <1332437965.28889.YahooMailNeo@web120201.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <01f801cd085b$9f98f4a0$decadde0$@rr.com> > the post is not pre drilled use a #29 drill (0.136") or try a 1/8" > drill. lead > post is quite soft so you may be OK with the smaller dia drill. Probably best to use an old somewhat dull drill bit if you have one. If not, keep a good hold on the drill motor as the bit will likely try to dig in and twist sideways. -- Randall From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Mar 22 12:58:55 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2012 14:58:55 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Lucas Batt Cap screws Message-ID: <58868.49cc0612.3c9cd06f@cs.com> In a message dated 3/22/2012 12:28:46 PM Central Daylight Time, flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk writes: > The factory used a simple cheese head drive screw - about a #8 1/2" > Battery > posts were already pre-drilled (as were all of them in Europe) 30+ years > ago. > Ya, you bechya, them cheese head screws are the thing to use! Oof-da! Dave (you gotta love those folks from Wisconsin) From wbeech at flash.net Thu Mar 22 15:57:24 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2012 16:57:24 -0500 Subject: [TR] Lucas Batt Cap screws In-Reply-To: <58868.49cc0612.3c9cd06f@cs.com> References: <58868.49cc0612.3c9cd06f@cs.com> Message-ID: Picked them up at Lowe's, #8x3/4 oval(cheese) head stainless, used a 3/32" drill, Bob's yer uncle! Thanks to all! Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" "Hello, my name is Bill and I own an old British car. Now...What are the next 11 steps?" _____ From: Dave1massey at cs.com [mailto:Dave1massey at cs.com] Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2012 1:59 PM To: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk; wbeech at flash.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Lucas Batt Cap screws In a message dated 3/22/2012 12:28:46 PM Central Daylight Time, flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk writes: The factory used a simple cheese head drive screw - about a #8 1/2" Battery posts were already pre-drilled (as were all of them in Europe) 30+ years ago. Ya, you bechya, them cheese head screws are the thing to use! Oof-da! Dave (you gotta love those folks from Wisconsin) From dave at ranteer.com Thu Mar 22 16:08:01 2012 From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave) Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2012 17:08:01 -0500 Subject: [TR] Erratic Speedometer In-Reply-To: <2EFDD1B4-5012-4A16-A9F0-B2BA9DBFB7BD@roadrunner.com> References: <251416DA-E1AC-40A5-B5D0-805E3A5ADFFF@roadrunner.com><00b901cd06cb$0b75f520$2261df60$@rr.com><013c01cd070b$b505e6f0$1f11b4d0$@rr.com><2FEF546B-BEBE-4C40-A183-F3BF2A1D09CD@roadrunner.com> <2EFDD1B4-5012-4A16-A9F0-B2BA9DBFB7BD@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: <1A6270E522934F6B88EF90A47D58A8A5@ranteer.local> I would think press on letters might work, then clearcoat. available at architectural/art supply stores in a zillion sizes just a thought -------------------------------------------------- From: "Hdefer" Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2012 11:54 AM To: "Triumph List" Subject: Re: [TR] Erratic Speedometer >> they can be esily repainted From dougfr2 at gmail.com Thu Mar 22 16:38:37 2012 From: dougfr2 at gmail.com (Doug) Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2012 18:38:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fine TR6's Message-ID: <091FFD4D-BF06-4FAE-BDB8-8E77A8BEE751@gmail.com> I feel the pain. Do you (sic) think they could be shipped to Florida? Sent from my iPad From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Mar 22 17:24:54 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2012 16:24:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] Erratic Speedometer In-Reply-To: <1A6270E522934F6B88EF90A47D58A8A5@ranteer.local> References: <251416DA-E1AC-40A5-B5D0-805E3A5ADFFF@roadrunner.com><00b901cd06cb$0b75f520$2261df60$@rr.com><013c01cd070b$b505e6f0$1f11b4d0$@rr.com><2FEF546B-BEBE-4C40-A183-F3BF2A1D09CD@roadrunner.com> <2EFDD1B4-5012-4A16-A9F0-B2BA9DBFB7BD@roadrunner.com> <1A6270E522934F6B88EF90A47D58A8A5@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <025501cd0882$fd7ada30$f8708e90$@rr.com> > I would think press on letters might work, then clearcoat. available > at > architectural/art supply stores in a zillion sizes Do you perhaps know of a store that stocks them in white? I contacted all the local chains, and searched on-line, without being able to find them in white. I did find one store that had some left over; but they were too large for what I wanted to do (dash lettering on a Stag). Apparently the computer age has nearly eliminated the market for press-on letters. -- Randall From mbarre at juno.com Thu Mar 22 17:42:51 2012 From: mbarre at juno.com (Matt) Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2012 23:42:51 GMT Subject: [TR] Erratic Speedometer Message-ID: <20120322.194251.2932.0@webmail07.vgs.untd.com> I would think the label machines would work better than the stick on letters - definitely easier to get lined up & spaced to satisfaction and the one we have at work has a surprising selection of fonts & variable sizing. I guess the only drawback would be that at particular angles, the clear tape would be visible, but they have some matte finish stuff that darn near disappears. MB ---------- Original Message ---------- From: "Randall" To: "'Triumph List'" Subject: Re: [TR] Erratic Speedometer Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2012 16:24:54 -0700 > I would think press on letters might work, then clearcoat. available > at > architectural/art supply stores in a zillion sizes Do you perhaps know of a store that stocks them in white? I contacted all the local chains, and searched on-line, without being able to find them in white. I did find one store that had some left over; but they were too large for what I wanted to do (dash lettering on a Stag). Apparently the computer age has nearly eliminated the market for press-on letters. -- Randall ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mbarre at juno.com From gpr at key-men.com Thu Mar 22 18:16:01 2012 From: gpr at key-men.com (George Richardson) Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2012 20:16:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fine TR6's In-Reply-To: <091FFD4D-BF06-4FAE-BDB8-8E77A8BEE751@gmail.com> References: <091FFD4D-BF06-4FAE-BDB8-8E77A8BEE751@gmail.com> Message-ID: <4F6BC0C1.4040908@key-men.com> Me too, except New York. :-) I'm just starting to rebuild my TR6 on a Ratco frame. Since the body wasn't much better than the frame, and the frame was useless, you can guess where I am. Fortunately, I've only spent $500 to aquire the TR6, which ran when I got it (10 years ago?) and I've spent another $1000 on a complete NOS set of original Rover body parts ( 9 years ago). The $5K for the Ratco frame was a big chunk, but this thing is going to be a new car when I get it done. George Richardson Key Men - Keys for Classics www.key-men.com On 3/22/2012 6:38 PM, Doug wrote: > I feel the pain. Do you (sic) think they could be shipped to Florida? > > Sent from my iPad > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/gpr at key-men.com From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Mar 23 04:52:11 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2012 06:52:11 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Lucas Batt Cap screws Message-ID: Actually, oval head and cheese head are different configurations. http://www.mcmaster.com/#machine-screw-fasteners/=gsay3y Dave In a message dated 3/22/2012 4:57:38 PM Central Daylight Time, > Picked them up at Lowe's, #8x3/4 oval(cheese) head stainless, used a > 3/32" drill, Bob's yer uncle! From wbeech at flash.net Fri Mar 23 08:07:26 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2012 09:07:26 -0500 Subject: [TR] Lucas Batt Cap screws In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Ahhh... That does look more like a wheel of cheese. I went with the oval as the battery cap holes are recessed as to accept an oval or flat headed screw. Thanks to all who responded, this was a great help. Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" "Hello, my name is Bill and I own an old British car. Now...What are the next 11 steps?" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave1massey at cs.com Sent: Friday, March 23, 2012 5:52 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Lucas Batt Cap screws Actually, oval head and cheese head are different configurations. http://www.mcmaster.com/#machine-screw-fasteners/=gsay3y Dave In a message dated 3/22/2012 4:57:38 PM Central Daylight Time, > Picked them up at Lowe's, #8x3/4 oval(cheese) head stainless, used a > 3/32" drill, Bob's yer uncle! ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From tr3 at roadrunner.com Fri Mar 23 10:44:37 2012 From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (Hdefer) Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2012 09:44:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] Erratic Speedometer In-Reply-To: <025501cd0882$fd7ada30$f8708e90$@rr.com> References: <251416DA-E1AC-40A5-B5D0-805E3A5ADFFF@roadrunner.com><00b901cd06cb$0b75f520$2261df60$@rr.com><013c01cd070b$b505e6f0$1f11b4d0$@rr.com><2FEF546B-BEBE-4C40-A183-F3BF2A1D09CD@roadrunner.com> <2EFDD1B4-5012-4A16-A9F0-B2BA9DBFB7BD@roadrunner.com> <1A6270E522934F6B88EF90A47D58A8A5@ranteer.local> <025501cd0882$fd7ada30$f8708e90$@rr.com> Message-ID: <28A7883D-418C-4A54-9589-96AFC9C1AA29@roadrunner.com> > Do you perhaps know of a store that stocks them in white? Even if you find them in white it would take a lot of luck to find a matching font. On Mar 22, 2012, at 4:24 PM, Randall wrote: >> I would think press on letters might work, then clearcoat. available >> at >> architectural/art supply stores in a zillion sizes > > Do you perhaps know of a store that stocks them in white? I > contacted all > the local chains, and searched on-line, without being able to find > them in > white. I did find one store that had some left over; but they were > too > large for what I wanted to do (dash lettering on a Stag). > > Apparently the computer age has nearly eliminated the market for > press-on > letters. > > -- Randall > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ > tr3 at roadrunner.com From tony at tonydrews.com Fri Mar 23 11:46:02 2012 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2012 12:46:02 -0500 Subject: [TR] Erratic Speedometer In-Reply-To: <28A7883D-418C-4A54-9589-96AFC9C1AA29@roadrunner.com> References: <251416DA-E1AC-40A5-B5D0-805E3A5ADFFF@roadrunner.com> <00b901cd06cb$0b75f520$2261df60$@rr.com> <013c01cd070b$b505e6f0$1f11b4d0$@rr.com> <2FEF546B-BEBE-4C40-A183-F3BF2A1D09CD@roadrunner.com> <2EFDD1B4-5012-4A16-A9F0-B2BA9DBFB7BD@roadrunner.com> <1A6270E522934F6B88EF90A47D58A8A5@ranteer.local> <025501cd0882$fd7ada30$f8708e90$@rr.com> <28A7883D-418C-4A54-9589-96AFC9C1AA29@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: Dunno if this helps... http://www.dickblick.com/products/headline-stick-on-vinyl-letters-and-numbers/?sortid=139&sortby=ASC#sortAnchor Stick on white vinyl letters, Helvetica font, 1/4" tall are on that page. Tony At 11:44 AM 3/23/2012, Hdefer wrote: >>Do you perhaps know of a store that stocks them in white? > >Even if you find them in white it would take a lot of luck to find a >matching font. > > >On Mar 22, 2012, at 4:24 PM, Randall wrote: > >>>I would think press on letters might work, then clearcoat. available >>>at >>>architectural/art supply stores in a zillion sizes >> >>Do you perhaps know of a store that stocks them in white? I >>contacted all >>the local chains, and searched on-line, without being able to find >>them in >>white. I did find one store that had some left over; but they were >>too >>large for what I wanted to do (dash lettering on a Stag). >> >>Apparently the computer age has nearly eliminated the market for >>press-on >>letters. >> >>-- Randall From lee at automate-it.com Fri Mar 23 13:18:01 2012 From: lee at automate-it.com (Lee Daniels) Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2012 14:18:01 -0500 Subject: [TR] Erratic Speedometer In-Reply-To: <28A7883D-418C-4A54-9589-96AFC9C1AA29@roadrunner.com> References: <251416DA-E1AC-40A5-B5D0-805E3A5ADFFF@roadrunner.com><00b901cd06cb$0b75f520$2261df60$@rr.com><013c01cd070b$b505e6f0$1f11b4d0$@rr.com><2FEF546B-BEBE-4C40-A183-F3BF2A1D09CD@roadrunner.com> <2EFDD1B4-5012-4A16-A9F0-B2BA9DBFB7BD@roadrunner.com> <1A6270E522934F6B88EF90A47D58A8A5@ranteer.local> <025501cd0882$fd7ada30$f8708e90$@rr.com> <28A7883D-418C-4A54-9589-96AFC9C1AA29@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: I would think that "rub-on" lettering would be easier (and better-looking). This may have been what was recommended, I'm not sure. These are nice because you get it all lined up, then just rub with something like a small wood stylus, and Bob's your uncle. Here's a source, they have them in white, and they come in 6, 8, 10 and 12-point font sizes: http://www.pcbsupplies.com/servlet/the-320/Chartpak-Dry-Transfer-Letters/Detail (or http://goo.gl/RI5c8 ) - Lee From jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com Fri Mar 23 13:20:50 2012 From: jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com (John Young) Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2012 12:20:50 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Erratic Speedometer In-Reply-To: <28A7883D-418C-4A54-9589-96AFC9C1AA29@roadrunner.com> References: <251416DA-E1AC-40A5-B5D0-805E3A5ADFFF@roadrunner.com><00b901cd06cb$0b75f520$2261df60$@rr.com><013c01cd070b$b505e6f0$1f11b4d0$@rr.com><2FEF546B-BEBE-4C40-A183-F3BF2A1D09CD@roadrunner.com> <2EFDD1B4-5012-4A16-A9F0-B2BA9DBFB7BD@roadrunner.com> <1A6270E522934F6B88EF90A47D58A8A5@ranteer.local> <025501cd0882$fd7ada30$f8708e90$@rr.com> <28A7883D-418C-4A54-9589-96AFC9C1AA29@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: <1332530450.90614.YahooMailNeo@web181002.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> You might try thr local model railroad store. They will have or can order several sizes, colors and fonts of decals. They should also have the proper clear coat for them. I have not actually seen them for several years now, but I have bought that sort of thing when I was building HO scale model railroads. John Young NASS# 528 Indiana '78 Spitfire '66 Spitfire '59 TR3A (being repaired after 37 yrs ownership) ----- Original Message ----- From: Hdefer To: Triumph List Cc: Sent: Friday, March 23, 2012 12:44 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Erratic Speedometer > Do you perhaps know of a store that stocks them in white? Even if you find them in white it would take a lot of luck to find a matching font. On Mar 22, 2012, at 4:24 PM, Randall wrote: >> I would think press on letters might work, then clearcoat. available >> at >> architectural/art supply stores in a zillion sizes > > Do you perhaps know of a store that stocks them in white? I contacted all > the local chains, and searched on-line, without being able to find them in > white. I did find one store that had some left over; but they were too > large for what I wanted to do (dash lettering on a Stag). > > Apparently the computer age has nearly eliminated the market for press-on > letters. > > -- Randall > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3 at roadrunner.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Mar 23 14:53:22 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2012 13:53:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] Erratic Speedometer In-Reply-To: <20120322.194251.2932.0@webmail07.vgs.untd.com> References: <20120322.194251.2932.0@webmail07.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: <034b01cd0936$fcbd49c0$f637dd40$@rr.com> > the one we have > at work has a surprising selection of fonts & variable sizing. Possibly some do, but ours doesn't do white. Perhaps for the TR3 counter wheels, you could print a black outline onto a strip of white plastic, but that wouldn't have worked for the Stag (where the white letters contrast against the wood grain of the dash). -- Randall From fishplate at charter.net Fri Mar 23 15:42:43 2012 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff) Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2012 17:42:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] More on the drive shaft Message-ID: <4F6CEE53.3000008@charter.net> After a week of soaking with Deep Creep and random tapping with a copper hammer, I'm still no closer to having a sliding drive shaft. I still intend to get it moving somehow, but I can't help wondering: Why does it need to slide? The transmission is (more or less) rigidly mounted, and the differential is also. So, it's possible that it won't slide, not from corrosion, but from 37 years of not having to slide. But if so, why go to that expense? I think I need a malty beverage... Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. From davewillner at pa.net Fri Mar 23 16:07:44 2012 From: davewillner at pa.net (davewillner) Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2012 18:07:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] Clutch bleeding issue update -resolved Message-ID: Had a very bad Classic Gold clutch master which I guess was recalled at some point. I replaced it this afternoon (in record time...) and we're back to normal, seems better than new, granted that was awhile ago but anyway, I appreciate all the help with all the creative bleeding procedures..now back to Moss for my refunds ; ) Thanks Dave Willner Stroudsburg PA 59 TR3A 70 MGB 70 BSA 441 VS From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Mar 23 16:11:30 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2012 18:11:30 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] More on the drive shaft Message-ID: <410d6.6956c448.3c9e4f12@cs.com> Far be it from me to get in the way of your malty beverage but there may be many reasons for a sliding joint in the drive shaft on an IRS car. One may be the fact that the engine/trans and the diff are both mounted with compliant (rubber) mounts. Another is that if the shaft length were fixed the length would have to be more accurate. With a sliding joint it only needs to be able to adjust the actual distance wetwen the two ends. Another reason may be that it is the same shaft they've been using all along so why change? Cheers. Dave In a message dated 3/23/2012 4:42:48 PM Central Daylight Time, fishplate at charter.net writes: > After a week of soaking with Deep Creep and random tapping with a copper > hammer, I'm still no closer to having a sliding drive shaft. I still > intend to get it moving somehow, but I can't help wondering: Why does > it need to slide? The transmission is (more or less) rigidly mounted, > and the differential is also. So, it's possible that it won't slide, > not from corrosion, but from 37 years of not having to slide. > > But if so, why go to that expense? I think I need a malty beverage... From McGaheyRx at aol.com Fri Mar 23 16:29:20 2012 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (Jack McGahey) Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2012 18:29:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] More on the drive shaft In-Reply-To: <410d6.6956c448.3c9e4f12@cs.com> References: <410d6.6956c448.3c9e4f12@cs.com> Message-ID: <43D67235-9BB1-41E2-9335-70E9841A3C91@aol.com> I agree with Dave - the diff and gearbox both move - if the driveshaft can't change length, something will "give" somewhere else Make sure the vent hole in end of the shorter sliding piece is open and clear - if it's clogged the shaft can't slide Cheers Jack Mc Sent from my iPhone On Mar 23, 2012, at 6:11 PM, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > Far be it from me to get in the way of your malty beverage but there may be > many reasons for a sliding joint in the drive shaft on an IRS car. One may > be the fact that the engine/trans and the diff are both mounted with > compliant (rubber) mounts. Another is that if the shaft length were fixed the > length would have to be more accurate. With a sliding joint it only needs to > be able to adjust the actual distance wetwen the two ends. Another reason > may be that it is the same shaft they've been using all along so why change? > > Cheers. > > Dave > > In a message dated 3/23/2012 4:42:48 PM Central Daylight Time, > fishplate at charter.net writes: >> After a week of soaking with Deep Creep and random tapping with a copper >> hammer, I'm still no closer to having a sliding drive shaft. I still >> intend to get it moving somehow, but I can't help wondering: Why does >> it need to slide? The transmission is (more or less) rigidly mounted, >> and the differential is also. So, it's possible that it won't slide, >> not from corrosion, but from 37 years of not having to slide. >> >> But if so, why go to that expense? I think I need a malty beverage... > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mcgaheyrx at aol.com From zoboherald at aol.com Fri Mar 23 16:53:11 2012 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace) Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2012 18:53:11 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] More on the drive shaft In-Reply-To: <410d6.6956c448.3c9e4f12@cs.com> References: <410d6.6956c448.3c9e4f12@cs.com> Message-ID: <8CED75EDB835835-CFC-AD9E@webmail-d058.sysops.aol.com> Dave noted: >Far be it from me to get in the way of your malty beverage but there may be >many reasons for a sliding joint in the drive shaft on an IRS car. One may >be the fact that the engine/trans and the diff are both mounted with >compliant (rubber) mounts. Another is that if the shaft length were fixed the >length would have to be more accurate. With a sliding joint it only needs to >be able to adjust the actual distance wetwen the two ends. Another reason >may be that it is the same shaft they've been using all along so why change? ==== Good reasoning, particularly with the torque of the bigger TR engines (4 or 6). Most Heralds did not have a sliding joint in the propshaft, but some did, as did most of the 6-cyl. Vitesse/Sports 6 variants. Same with the GT6. If nothing else, having the sliding joint (and having it function) sure makes it easier to remove said propshaft. I used to have a lot of fun huffing and puffing and levering on things to get solid Herald propshafts out. :( --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Mar 23 17:10:11 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2012 16:10:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] More on the drive shaft In-Reply-To: <4F6CEE53.3000008@charter.net> References: <4F6CEE53.3000008@charter.net> Message-ID: <037301cd094a$1983a460$4c8aed20$@rr.com> > After a week of soaking with Deep Creep and random tapping with a > copper > hammer, I'm still no closer to having a sliding drive shaft. Just a thought, have you tried loosening the screw-on collar? -- Randall From spitfire at freebacon.net Fri Mar 23 17:11:37 2012 From: spitfire at freebacon.net (Mike Welch) Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2012 17:11:37 -0600 Subject: [TR] Erratic Speedometer In-Reply-To: <034b01cd0936$fcbd49c0$f637dd40$@rr.com> References: <20120322.194251.2932.0@webmail07.vgs.untd.com> <034b01cd0936$fcbd49c0$f637dd40$@rr.com> Message-ID: I've used the printable decals before, available at the local Walmart in the toy model department. Print on a regular printer, white on a black background should do it. Mike -----Original Message----- From: Randall Sent: Friday, March 23, 2012 2:53 PM Cc: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Erratic Speedometer > the one we have > at work has a surprising selection of fonts & variable sizing. Possibly some do, but ours doesn't do white. Perhaps for the TR3 counter wheels, you could print a black outline onto a strip of white plastic, but that wouldn't have worked for the Stag (where the white letters contrast against the wood grain of the dash). -- Randall ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitfire at freebacon.net From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Fri Mar 23 17:48:12 2012 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net) Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2012 19:48:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] FW: Re: More on the drive shaft Message-ID: <380-220123523234812834@M2W136.mail2web.com> And I believe even the "solid" shafts had a sliding type joint, although it didn't slide much. If it was like mine in my my 72, It used a set of small, thin spring steel plates bolted to cross yolks that allowed a small amount of movement for and aft to take up the vibrations and movement that the motor and diff mounts will surely have. Also, the shorter yolk that slid inside the main driveshaft had a rubber "O" ring inside of the shaft for damping. Dave noted: >Far be it from me to get in the way of your malty beverage but there may be >many reasons for a sliding joint in the drive shaft on an IRS car. One may >be the fact that the engine/trans and the diff are both mounted with >compliant (rubber) mounts. Another is that if the shaft length were fixed the >length would have to be more accurate. With a sliding joint it only needs to >be able to adjust the actual distance wetwen the two ends. Another reason >may be that it is the same shaft they've been using all along so why change? ==== Good reasoning, particularly with the torque of the bigger TR engines (4 or 6). Most Heralds did not have a sliding joint in the propshaft, but some did, as did most of the 6-cyl. Vitesse/Sports 6 variants. Same with the GT6. If nothing else, having the sliding joint (and having it function) sure makes it easier to remove said propshaft. I used to have a lot of fun huffing and puffing and levering on things to get solid Herald propshafts out. :( --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/v6spitfireguy at cox.net -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web.com  Enhanced email for the mobile individual based on Microsoft. Exchange - http://link.mail2web.com/Personal/EnhancedEmail From fishplate at charter.net Fri Mar 23 20:38:57 2012 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff) Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2012 22:38:57 -0400 Subject: [TR] More on the drive shaft In-Reply-To: <037301cd094a$1983a460$4c8aed20$@rr.com> References: <4F6CEE53.3000008@charter.net> <037301cd094a$1983a460$4c8aed20$@rr.com> Message-ID: <4F6D33C1.8020007@charter.net> On 3/23/2012 7:10 PM, Randall wrote: >> After a week of soaking with Deep Creep and random tapping with a >> copper >> hammer, I'm still no closer to having a sliding drive shaft. > Just a thought, have you tried loosening the screw-on collar? Yes, in fact it was loose when I took it off the car. I figured it had to give a little as the rubber mounts flexed. If I can get it sliding, I ought to notice a difference. OTOH, I can testify that it still works OK if it's a solid shaft... From ghaynestr4 at aol.com Sat Mar 24 12:35:25 2012 From: ghaynestr4 at aol.com (George Haynes) Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2012 14:35:25 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Recognition In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CED804033BCE99-B80-1E15@webmail-d163.sysops.aol.com> I want to take a minute to give thanks to Triumph Owner and List Member Ken Gano, who just drove about one hundred miles to look at a non-Triumph for me. All cheerfully and as helpfully as could possibly be imagined. We have never met but I sure hope I get a chance to shake his hand and thank Ken personally some day. This is a great list and great group of folks. Makes me proud to be a Triumph owner! George Haynes From pethier at comcast.net Sat Mar 24 13:03:23 2012 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2012 19:03:23 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Recognition In-Reply-To: <8CED804033BCE99-B80-1E15@webmail-d163.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <2110861370.711059.1332615803848.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Good show, both of you. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://www.mnautox.com ----- Original Message ----- > From: "George Haynes" > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Saturday, March 24, 2012 1:35:25 PM > Subject: [TR] Recognition > I want to take a minute to give thanks to Triumph Owner and List > Member > Ken Gano, who just drove about one hundred miles to look at a > non-Triumph for > me. > All cheerfully and as helpfully as could possibly be imagined. We have > never > met but I > sure hope I get a chance to shake his hand and thank Ken personally > some day. > This is a great list and great group of folks. Makes me proud to be a > Triumph > owner! > George Haynes > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Sat Mar 24 15:08:17 2012 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2012 17:08:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] Recognition In-Reply-To: <8CED804033BCE99-B80-1E15@webmail-d163.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CED804033BCE99-B80-1E15@webmail-d163.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <3FC5C9A9E6D943C4917DE35135706A53@UserTHINK> Ken's that kind of guy. -----Original Message----- From: George Haynes Sent: Saturday, March 24, 2012 2:35 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Recognition I want to take a minute to give thanks to Triumph Owner and List Member Ken Gano, who just drove about one hundred miles to look at a non-Triumph for me. All cheerfully and as helpfully as could possibly be imagined. We have never met but I sure hope I get a chance to shake his hand and thank Ken personally some day. This is a great list and great group of folks. Makes me proud to be a Triumph owner! George Haynes From agraham at execulink.com Sat Mar 24 15:57:17 2012 From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham) Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2012 17:57:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 fuel pump flex line Message-ID: <4F6E433D.1060305@execulink.com> Hello List: I just installed a NOS steel wrapped flex line between the fuel shut off valve and supply side of the pump on my '2. . Not sure of the age, but it has never been used. Am I courting problems here? Will the rubber interior line stand up to our "new" fuels? I can keep an eye on the sediment bowl for any bits of debris, but not sure if the rubber inside line will just collapse or otherwise deteriorate. Any alternatives to this set-up? Wondering about canabalizing the existing line for the fittings and graft rated fuel line to the ends. Thanks for any help with this. Angelo Graham From tjwakeman at gmail.com Sat Mar 24 16:13:57 2012 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2012 15:13:57 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 stuff now on ebay Message-ID: <4F6E4725.2060503@gmail.com> Sorry for bombing the whole list but someone asked to let them know when I listed the TR3 steering assembly on ebay and I can not find their email to let them know it is now listed. Here is what I put up: - TR3A lower steering assembly including a split shaft steering box rebuilt by The Roadster Factory less than 20,000 miles ago with all new guts, including a new peg and worm gear. - Factory TR3 jack -factory TR3 lug nut wrench - New old stock TR3 optional ash tray - A pair of unlabeled Hooter style horns I took off the TR3. I don't know if they are original or aftermarket but they are tested and work. Teriann From StuCohen at aol.com Sat Mar 24 19:58:50 2012 From: StuCohen at aol.com (StuCohen at aol.com) Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2012 21:58:50 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Spitfire Seat Restoration Message-ID: <5c23.2b4a6d51.3c9fd5da@aol.com> Anybody have experience with Newton Commercial's seat reupholstery service? It's finally time to stop procrastinating and redo the seats in my 1980 Spitfire, and I recently discovered Newton Commercial will do the work for you for, what seems like, a reasonable fee compared with the frustration that must go along with trying to do it yourself. Any opinions from those with experience with the process? How much does it cost to send the seats to the UK and how long does it usually take? Stuart From glemon at neb.rr.com Sat Mar 24 23:24:22 2012 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (glemon at neb.rr.com) Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2012 5:24:22 +0000 Subject: [TR] Spitfire Seat Restoration In-Reply-To: <5c23.2b4a6d51.3c9fd5da@aol.com> Message-ID: <20120325052422.46DXU.114062.root@hrndva-web02-z02> I have recovered seats with seat kits from The Roadster Factory and Moss, the first set I did I knew nothing about upholstery, they turned out well, not perfect, but very good, not too hard, an afternoons works assuming everything underneath is OK. I am assuming you live in the United States, if you don't want to do it yourself find a local shop an old car seat is an old car seat, there should be someone closer to home that will do it, shipping will be a killer to the UK given the size and weight, I would think well over $100, maybe $100s of dollars, shipping has gone up with the price of fuel. Greg Lemon From tr6parts at charter.net Sun Mar 25 06:53:35 2012 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore) Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2012 08:53:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] Spitfire Seat Restoration References: <5c23.2b4a6d51.3c9fd5da@aol.com> Message-ID: Newton Commercial is in the UK, they make them there, so shipping shouldn't be a problem. Al ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, March 24, 2012 9:58 PM Subject: [TR] Spitfire Seat Restoration > Anybody have experience with Newton Commercial's seat reupholstery > service? It's finally time to stop procrastinating and redo the seats in > my 1980 > Spitfire, and I recently discovered Newton Commercial will do the work > for > you for, what seems like, a reasonable fee compared with the frustration > that must go along with trying to do it yourself. Any opinions from those > with experience with the process? How much does it cost to send the seats > to > the UK and how long does it usually take? > > Stuart > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr6parts at charter.net From dconnitt at fuse.net Sun Mar 25 07:06:49 2012 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2012 09:06:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] Looking for a 1975 TR6 part Message-ID: Hi List, A friend of mine who is restoring a 1975 TR6 ran into a problem with a part he sent to a metal stripping place here in town. He needs a right front turn signal mounting bracket. He had sent the metal stripper two boxes of parts, one to strip and one to powder coat. It seems the bracket, which is aluminum, got mistakenly dumped into the wrong tank and melted. If anybody has one of these brackets and is interested in parting with it, please contact Ed directly. His email is cc'd above. As always, thanks, Dave Connitt '67 TR4A IRS http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Sun Mar 25 07:13:05 2012 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2012 09:13:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] Looking for a 1975 TR6 part In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <9C479B663F4D4EBDA6DA00B860744791@UserTHINK> Call Scott Harper (Team Triumph) at 330-392-7176 after 11 on Monday. He may have what you need. JVV -----Original Message----- From: Dave Connitt Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2012 9:06 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Cc: Ed Gollar Subject: [TR] Looking for a 1975 TR6 part Hi List, A friend of mine who is restoring a 1975 TR6 ran into a problem with a part he sent to a metal stripping place here in town. He needs a right front turn signal mounting bracket. He had sent the metal stripper two boxes of parts, one to strip and one to powder coat. It seems the bracket, which is aluminum, got mistakenly dumped into the wrong tank and melted. If anybody has one of these brackets and is interested in parting with it, please contact Ed directly. His email is cc'd above. As always, thanks, Dave Connitt '67 TR4A IRS http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jerryvv at roadrunner.com From jmitch at snet.net Sun Mar 25 08:18:47 2012 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2012 10:18:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] Stag project car for sale Message-ID: <4F6F2947.2050409@snet.net> Hi, do to an upcoming move, I'm forced to find a new home for my 72 Stag project. Not much work has been done at this point. I had planned on this being a retirement project. The interior pieces have been removed, but everything else is still attached. It's a 72 with automatic transmission in sapphire blue with blue interior. The car has no rust, but needs a complete paint job. The engine ran when I got the car, but has not been run in several years. I did fill each cylinder with mystery oil and sprayed fogging oil through the carburetors before pulling the car into my basement for dis assembly. I had intended to do a concourse restoration as time permitted, but time never became available. I have acquired 95% of the parts needed for a ground up rebuild. I have all the interior pieces(seat covers, carpet,cubbys, etc.) to recover everything in beige from Rimmers. I have all the new chrome pieces needed. I have all the parts needed to convert the car to manual transmission including an NOS Stag transmission with an A type overdrive added by Quantum mechanics. I have new fancy wood for the dash and console. I have most of the parts needed to perform a rebuild on the engine if so desired including Iwis chains and I had high compression pistons fabricated by Venolia in California. I have far to many parts to list everything. I'd be willing to sell just the car, with all the parts I have taken off it, or any or all additional parts I have. I'd be willing to take $2500 for the car and we could work out a deal for whatever parts the buyer would want. I'd be very reasonable on price and you could save a fortune over buying them from England and having them shipped. I'm in southern Connecticut and can be contacted at jmitch at snet.net. The car would need to be taken on a trailer. Thanks, John From pat.l at comcast.net Sun Mar 25 15:34:08 2012 From: pat.l at comcast.net (Pat Ledford) Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2012 17:34:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] Looking for a 1975 TR6 part In-Reply-To: <9C479B663F4D4EBDA6DA00B860744791@UserTHINK> References: <9C479B663F4D4EBDA6DA00B860744791@UserTHINK> Message-ID: <4F6F8F50.1020300@comcast.net> He has them. I was looking at them about 3 weeks ago. His all needed the mounting screw drilled out and replaced like mine so I did not pick one up. On 3/25/2012 9:13 AM, Jerry Van Vlack wrote: > Call Scott Harper (Team Triumph) at 330-392-7176 after 11 on Monday. He > may have what you need. > JVV > > -----Original Message----- From: Dave Connitt > Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2012 9:06 AM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Cc: Ed Gollar > Subject: [TR] Looking for a 1975 TR6 part > > Hi List, > A friend of mine who is restoring a 1975 TR6 ran into a problem with a > part he > sent to a metal stripping place here in town. He needs a right front turn > signal mounting bracket. He had sent the metal stripper two boxes of parts, > one to strip and one to powder coat. It seems the bracket, which is > aluminum, > got mistakenly dumped into the wrong tank and melted. If anybody has one of > these brackets and is interested in parting with it, please contact Ed > directly. His email is cc'd above. > As always, thanks, > Dave Connitt > '67 TR4A IRS > http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jerryvv at roadrunner.com > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pat.l at comcast.net From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Mar 25 16:36:03 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2012 15:36:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 fuel pump flex line In-Reply-To: <4F6E433D.1060305@execulink.com> References: <4F6E433D.1060305@execulink.com> Message-ID: <008d01cd0ad7$a94d6340$0301a8c0@randall> > Am I courting problems here? IMO yes, if it was really NOS. If instead it was a replacement made in the past 20-30 years, you might be OK. > Any alternatives to this set-up? Isn't that hose available new? Rimmers has it listed in SS: http://goo.gl/9n8tK > Wondering about canabalizing the > existing line for the fittings and graft rated fuel line to the ends. Should be doable. The entire line & shutoff valve was missing from TS13571L, so I just moved over the parts from my wrecked TR3A (two short lengths of hard line, with compression fittings to pump & valve, plus standard 5/16 soft line in the middle). -- Randall From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Sun Mar 25 16:53:00 2012 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2012 17:53:00 -0500 Subject: [TR] Recognition In-Reply-To: <3FC5C9A9E6D943C4917DE35135706A53@UserTHINK> References: , <8CED804033BCE99-B80-1E15@webmail-d163.sysops.aol.com>, <3FC5C9A9E6D943C4917DE35135706A53@UserTHINK> Message-ID: +1! Rich White Central, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF###L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! > From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com > To: triumphs at autox.team.net; ghaynestr4 at aol.com > Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2012 17:08:17 -0400 > Subject: Re: [TR] Recognition > > Ken's that kind of guy. > > -----Original Message----- > From: George Haynes > Sent: Saturday, March 24, 2012 2:35 PM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] Recognition > > I want to take a minute to give thanks to Triumph Owner and List Member > Ken Gano, who just drove about one hundred miles to look at a non-Triumph > for > me. > All cheerfully and as helpfully as could possibly be imagined. We have > never > met but I > sure hope I get a chance to shake his hand and thank Ken personally some > day. > This is a great list and great group of folks. Makes me proud to be a > Triumph > owner! > George Haynes > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com From dave at ranteer.com Mon Mar 26 05:19:02 2012 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave at ranteer.com) Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2012 04:19:02 -0700 Subject: [TR] bonnet (hood) prop rod needed - early tr4 Message-ID: <20120326041902.eacca00412c4e976446146f9b5e47255.effb45cf4a.wbe@email06.secureserver.net> /local/mailman/lynxXXXXrWVZcs: Permission denied From zoboherald at aol.com Mon Mar 26 10:45:21 2012 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace) Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2012 12:45:21 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Thoughts on "Silverstar High Performance Lighting" bulbs? Message-ID: <8CED986F6FC0B85-CFC-16CA1@webmail-d058.sysops.aol.com> It would appear I've fallen for marketing hype. Thinking it couldn't hurt to have slightly brighter taillamp and flasher bulbs on the rear of my '62 Herald 1200, I thought I'd try Sylvania's "Silverstar High Performance Lighting" bulbs. Frankly, they look pretty much like any other 1156 and 1157 bulbs, save for what appears to be a bit of a blue tint in the glass. Perhaps I should have been tipped off by "15% Whiter light* [*compared to aged standard bulbs]? With the lenses in place, the bulbs seem -- if anything -- at least 15% LESS bright than the very aged but fully functional bulbs they replaced! Did I do something wrong...other than waste money? --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us From gpr at key-men.com Mon Mar 26 10:53:33 2012 From: gpr at key-men.com (George Richardson) Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2012 12:53:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] Thoughts on "Silverstar High Performance Lighting" bulbs? In-Reply-To: <8CED986F6FC0B85-CFC-16CA1@webmail-d058.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CED986F6FC0B85-CFC-16CA1@webmail-d058.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4F709F0D.3060308@key-men.com> It depends on the lenses in front of the lamp. With no lens, they may be emitting more light. If you put a clear lens in front of them, they're probably just as bright. However, a red or amber lens blocks blue light, reducing the output. In this case a yellower lamp works better. George Richardson Key Men - Keys for Classics www.key-men.com On 3/26/2012 12:45 PM, Andrew S. Mace wrote: > It would appear I've fallen for marketing hype. Thinking it couldn't hurt to > have slightly brighter taillamp and flasher bulbs on the rear of my '62 Herald > 1200, I thought I'd try Sylvania's "Silverstar High Performance Lighting" > bulbs. Frankly, they look pretty much like any other 1156 and 1157 bulbs, save > for what appears to be a bit of a blue tint in the glass. Perhaps I should > have been tipped off by "15% Whiter light* [*compared to aged standard bulbs]? > With the lenses in place, the bulbs seem -- if anything -- at least 15% LESS > bright than the very aged but fully functional bulbs they replaced! Did I do > something wrong...other than waste money? > > > > --Andy Mace > > *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? > *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph > Herald engine with wings. > -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) > > Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph > Register: http://www.vtr.org > > Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald > Database: http://triumph-herald.us > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/gpr at key-men.com From don.hiscock at gmail.com Mon Mar 26 11:00:33 2012 From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2012 13:00:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] Thoughts on "Silverstar High Performance Lighting" bulbs? In-Reply-To: <8CED986F6FC0B85-CFC-16CA1@webmail-d058.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CED986F6FC0B85-CFC-16CA1@webmail-d058.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: All marketing hype, IMO. The basic principle is that filters work by subtracting light. A dichroic filter to make the light bluer (and hence whiter by their definition) does it by subtracting yellow- and red-shaded light, not by adding more blue light. So it's quite possble to be 15% whiter and lower brightness overall. Seems almost unavoidable. Don From zoboherald at aol.com Mon Mar 26 11:28:25 2012 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace) Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2012 13:28:25 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Thoughts on "Silverstar High Performance Lighting" bulbs? In-Reply-To: References: <8CED986F6FC0B85-CFC-16CA1@webmail-d058.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <8CED98CFBB630A9-CFC-17271@webmail-d058.sysops.aol.com> Replies to my question: George: It depends on the lenses in front of the lamp. With no lens, they may be emitting more light. If you put a clear lens in front of them, they're probably just as bright. However, a red or amber lens blocks blue light, reducing the output. In this case a yellower lamp works better. Don Hiscock: All marketing hype, IMO. The basic principle is that filters work by subtracting light. A dichroic filter to make the light bluer (and hence whiter by their definition) does it by subtracting yellow- and red-shaded light, not by adding more blue light. So it's quite possble to be 15% whiter and lower brightness overall. Seems almost unavoidable. Thanks, George and Don. What you say makes sense. So maybe if I use the 1157s in the front side-flasher lamps, and revert to the original white/clear lens while I'm at it, I won't have completely wasted my money? Sigh.... --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Mar 26 12:13:32 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2012 11:13:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] Thoughts on "Silverstar High Performance Lighting" bulbs? In-Reply-To: <8CED986F6FC0B85-CFC-16CA1@webmail-d058.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CED986F6FC0B85-CFC-16CA1@webmail-d058.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <061601cd0b7c$2a134a90$7e39dfb0$@rr.com> That has been my experience with the Silverstar bulbs as well. The theory is that the human eye is more sensitive to bluer light (higher color temperature), but I can't see the difference. My _guess_ is that light response is logarithmic, and 15% is just too small to notice without very sensitive tests. I know that is true for hearing: the smallest step you can hear in volume is 3 db, which is about twice the power. However, there are some bulbs that will work better. I've been using 2357 for several years now, which are a direct substitute for 1157. The tail filaments are the same as 1157 (same brightness, same power); but the brake/turn filament is optimized for more light output (at the expense of lifetime). They do draw just slightly more power (2.20 amps instead of 2.10), but the light definitely seems brighter to me (rated 25% more candlepower/lumens). The downside is that the brake/turn filament is only rated for 400 hours of life, rather than the 1200 hours for the 1157. So far that hasn't been a problem for me; but I'm in the habit of taking my foot off the brake after the car behind me has stopped. There is also a "long life" version from Sylvania, but I don't know the specifications on it. There was also a recent post on this list about 3496 bulbs (originally written by Jim Sloane I believe), which I intend to try. They are supposed to be even brighter than the 2357 (43cp vs 40), draw slightly less power (27 watts vs 28.2), and have a longer lifetime (600 hours vs 400). The downside appears to be that they are more expensive, harder to find, and you may have to buy a pack of 10 of them. -- Randall From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Mon Mar 26 13:09:43 2012 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2012 12:09:43 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] CA Black Plates Message-ID: <1332788983.75349.YahooMailRC@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> When I bought my black plate TR3 in 1992 the CA DMV wouldn't let me keep the expired black plates on the car and I had to get new plates. I still have the black plates and have proof that they were on the car for years before I bought it. I keep thinking that there may be some way to get the black plates back on the car, with CA having the YOM rules in effect. I have heard a rumor of a sympathetic DMV employee in Temecula, CA that can help make this happen. Has anyone heard of someone doing this? Bill in Tehachapi From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Mon Mar 26 13:10:44 2012 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2012 12:10:44 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Bugeye Sprite Project Message-ID: <1332789044.50376.YahooMailRC@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I have a friend trying to move a Bugeye Sprite project. He is way open to offers. http://losangeles.craigslist.org/ant/cto/2922969711.html Bill in Tehachapi From gpr at key-men.com Mon Mar 26 13:16:26 2012 From: gpr at key-men.com (George Richardson) Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2012 15:16:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] Removing TR6 body Message-ID: <4F70C08A.1000301@key-men.com> An idle question. Having just removed the rear of the body from my car, I'm contemplating removing the front body. Can the TR6 body be removed with the engine in place? If so, that's what I'll do next. If not, back to the wrenching on the rear end stuff.... Just so we're clear, there ws nothing left connecting the front of the body to the back, and precious little connecting the front of the frame to the rear. Alpine lace cheese is more solid than this frame... -- George Richardson Key Men - Keys for Classics www.key-men.com From wbeech at flash.net Mon Mar 26 13:24:52 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2012 14:24:52 -0500 Subject: [TR] Thoughts on "Silverstar High Performance Lighting" bulbs? In-Reply-To: <8CED986F6FC0B85-CFC-16CA1@webmail-d058.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CED986F6FC0B85-CFC-16CA1@webmail-d058.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: If you bought them at your FLAPS, then just take them back. That's one way to get the message to them that their product isn't all it purported to be. Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew S. Mace Sent: Monday, March 26, 2012 11:45 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Thoughts on "Silverstar High Performance Lighting" bulbs? It would appear I've fallen for marketing hype. Thinking it couldn't hurt to have slightly brighter taillamp and flasher bulbs on the rear of my '62 Herald 1200, I thought I'd try Sylvania's "Silverstar High Performance Lighting" bulbs. Frankly, they look pretty much like any other 1156 and 1157 bulbs, save for what appears to be a bit of a blue tint in the glass. Perhaps I should have been tipped off by "15% Whiter light* [*compared to aged standard bulbs]? With the lenses in place, the bulbs seem -- if anything -- at least 15% LESS bright than the very aged but fully functional bulbs they replaced! Did I do something wrong...other than waste money? --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From wbeech at flash.net Mon Mar 26 13:24:52 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2012 14:24:52 -0500 Subject: [TR] CA Black Plates In-Reply-To: <1332788983.75349.YahooMailRC@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <1332788983.75349.YahooMailRC@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Don't know about Temecula, but certainly have heard the adage "If one DMV turns you down, try, try again, in the next town" Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer Sent: Monday, March 26, 2012 2:10 PM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] CA Black Plates When I bought my black plate TR3 in 1992 the CA DMV wouldn't let me keep the expired black plates on the car and I had to get new plates. I still have the black plates and have proof that they were on the car for years before I bought it. I keep thinking that there may be some way to get the black plates back on the car, with CA having the YOM rules in effect. I have heard a rumor of a sympathetic DMV employee in Temecula, CA that can help make this happen. Has anyone heard of someone doing this? Bill in Tehachapi ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From yellowtr at adelphia.net Mon Mar 26 13:39:50 2012 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2012 15:39:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] Removing TR6 body In-Reply-To: <4F70C08A.1000301@key-men.com> References: <4F70C08A.1000301@key-men.com> Message-ID: <4F70C606.3020203@adelphia.net> George, The body can be lifted while engine is in place. But I have to ask you since the body is one piece, how did you manage to remove just the rear? Was the body that rusted out? As far as the frame, yes it does leave a lot to be desired. Ratco makes a solid replacement or you can reinforce the existing frame by welding in panels etc. Bob On 03/26/2012 03:16 PM, George Richardson wrote: > An idle question. Having just removed the rear of the body from my > car, I'm contemplating removing the front body. > > Can the TR6 body be removed with the engine in place? > > If so, that's what I'll do next. If not, back to the wrenching on the > rear end stuff.... > > Just so we're clear, there ws nothing left connecting the front of the > body to the back, and precious little connecting the front of the > frame to the rear. > > Alpine lace cheese is more solid than this frame... From gpr at key-men.com Mon Mar 26 13:43:55 2012 From: gpr at key-men.com (George Richardson) Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2012 15:43:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] Removing TR6 body In-Reply-To: <4F70C606.3020203@adelphia.net> References: <4F70C08A.1000301@key-men.com> <4F70C606.3020203@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <4F70C6FB.6080303@key-men.com> As I said in the email, there was nothing connecting the front of the body to the back, and not much frame either. The floors and sills were gone. I've got a new Ratco frame, and I'll be reuniting the parts of the body on it. If I can lift the front clip over the engine, then I'll do that next. Then I'm probably just going to get the torch and cut up what's left of the old frame. George Richardson Key Men - Keys for Classics www.key-men.com On 3/26/2012 3:39 PM, Bob Labuz wrote: > George, > > The body can be lifted while engine is in place. But I have to ask you > since the body is one piece, how did you manage to remove just the > rear? Was the body that rusted out? > > As far as the frame, yes it does leave a lot to be desired. Ratco > makes a solid replacement or you can reinforce the existing frame by > welding in panels etc. > > Bob > > On 03/26/2012 03:16 PM, George Richardson wrote: >> An idle question. Having just removed the rear of the body from my >> car, I'm contemplating removing the front body. >> >> Can the TR6 body be removed with the engine in place? >> >> If so, that's what I'll do next. If not, back to the wrenching on the >> rear end stuff.... >> >> Just so we're clear, there ws nothing left connecting the front of >> the body to the back, and precious little connecting the front of the >> frame to the rear. >> >> Alpine lace cheese is more solid than this frame... From dave at ranteer.com Mon Mar 26 13:37:32 2012 From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave) Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2012 14:37:32 -0500 Subject: [TR] part needed tr4 Message-ID: sorry - this may or may not have made it through yesterday I'm in need of a hood/bonnect prop rod for an early tr4 if anyone has one to sell. and, btw, need same for a 75 spit (I know - wrong list) From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Mon Mar 26 14:15:28 2012 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2012 13:15:28 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] CA Black Plates In-Reply-To: <1332788983.75349.YahooMailRC@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <1332788983.75349.YahooMailRC@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1332792928.84875.YahooMailNeo@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> that sympathetic DMV guy in temecula looked after me. my car came from Indiana so all the help i got was in registering. that was some 6 or 7 years ago. I'm not sure id recognize the guy again. and the trick was getting the guy outside and seeing the car. to which he declared "i had one of those when..." and help came real quickly after that Frank From: William Brewer To: Triumphs Sent: Monday, March 26, 2012 12:09 PM Subject: [TR] CA Black Plates When I bought my black plate TR3 in 1992 the CA DMV wouldn't let me keep the expired black plates on the car and I had to get new plates. I still have the black plates and have proof that they were on the car for years before I bought it. I keep thinking that there may be some way to get the black plates back on the car, with CA having the YOM rules in effect. I have heard a rumor of a sympathetic DMV employee in Temecula, CA that can help make this happen. Has anyone heard of someone doing this? Bill in Tehachapi ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Mon Mar 26 14:18:01 2012 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2012 13:18:01 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] CA Black Plates In-Reply-To: References: <1332788983.75349.YahooMailRC@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1332793081.21626.YahooMailNeo@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> my friend in temecula had the oposit of my experience. out of state car and a dmv %#@$&. so he then went to AAA and was registered and driving in 1/2 an hour Frank From: "wbeech at flash.net" To: 'William Brewer' ; 'Triumphs' Sent: Monday, March 26, 2012 12:24 PM Subject: Re: [TR] CA Black Plates Don't know about Temecula, but certainly have heard the adage "If one DMV turns you down, try, try again, in the next town" Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer Sent: Monday, March 26, 2012 2:10 PM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] CA Black Plates When I bought my black plate TR3 in 1992 the CA DMV wouldn't let me keep the expired black plates on the car and I had to get new plates. I still have the black plates and have proof that they were on the car for years before I bought it. I keep thinking that there may be some way to get the black plates back on the car, with CA having the YOM rules in effect. I have heard a rumor of a sympathetic DMV employee in Temecula, CA that can help make this happen. Has anyone heard of someone doing this? Bill in Tehachapi ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From tjwakeman at gmail.com Mon Mar 26 14:24:18 2012 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2012 13:24:18 -0700 Subject: [TR] CA Black Plates In-Reply-To: <1332788983.75349.YahooMailRC@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <1332788983.75349.YahooMailRC@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4F70D072.2010506@gmail.com> Bill, have you tried to get vanity plates with the number on your black plate? If you get the number put your black plates on instead of the vanity plates. Same number so I doubt the CHP would ever notice. Year of manufacture plates are the only old ones you can retrofit. You can always buy a pair of gold with black print year of manufacture plates for your TR3. Teriann On 3/26/12 12:09 PM, William Brewer wrote: > When I bought my black plate TR3 in 1992 the CA DMV wouldn't let me keep > the expired black plates on the car and I had to get new plates. I still have > the black plates and have proof that they were on the car for years before I > bought it. I keep thinking that there may be some way to get the black plates > back on the car, with CA having the YOM rules in effect. I have heard a rumor of > a sympathetic DMV employee in Temecula, CA that can help make this happen. Has > anyone heard of someone doing this? > > > Bill in Tehachapi From rgt2 at sbcglobal.net Mon Mar 26 14:26:16 2012 From: rgt2 at sbcglobal.net (Rodney Trunnell) Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2012 13:26:16 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] CA Black Plates In-Reply-To: <1332788983.75349.YahooMailRC@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <1332788983.75349.YahooMailRC@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1332793576.42700.YahooMailRC@web181017.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> When I got ready to put my TR3 back on the road after not being registered for 37 years I had no problems at all in using the original black plates. This was in the DMV in Chico, CA Rod 62 TR3B ________________________________ From: William Brewer To: Triumphs Sent: Mon, March 26, 2012 12:09:43 PM Subject: [TR] CA Black Plates When I bought my black plate TR3 in 1992 the CA DMV wouldn't let me keep the expired black plates on the car and I had to get new plates. I still have the black plates and have proof that they were on the car for years before I bought it. I keep thinking that there may be some way to get the black plates back on the car, with CA having the YOM rules in effect. I have heard a rumor of a sympathetic DMV employee in Temecula, CA that can help make this happen. Has anyone heard of someone doing this? Bill in Tehachapi From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Mar 26 14:53:14 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2012 13:53:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] CA Black Plates In-Reply-To: <1332788983.75349.YahooMailRC@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <1332788983.75349.YahooMailRC@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <065f01cd0b92$7720c720$65625560$@rr.com> YOM will not work for you, Bill. Black plates didn't start until 1963, so there is no black plate for your "year of manufacture". However, there is another provision in the law that should work. I used it to keep my black plates. Unfortunately I can't think of the name offhand; but my local DMV basically knew nothing about the law. I had to print out the rules from the DMV web site, then fill out my own "statement of facts" (a DMV form) stating that I met every requirement of the rules. The clerk still did not think it would work, but she agreed to ship the papers off to Sacramento, where it was approved. You will need some sort of DMV paperwork (like an old registration) showing that those plates were assigned to your car when they were current plates. They also need to inspect both plates, to ensure they are in "acceptable" condition. There are also a bunch of statements about it being a collector vehicle, you being a collector, not modifying the car and so on. The result is effectively an "environmental" plate, so you'll also pay an extra fee every year (on top of the application fee). -- Randall From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Mar 26 14:54:54 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2012 16:54:54 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Removing TR6 body Message-ID: <16dc3.4f23ff8f.3ca2319e@cs.com> In a message dated 3/26/2012 2:43:46 PM Central Daylight Time, gpr at key-men.com writes: > If I can lift the front clip over the engine, then I'll do that next. > That's the preferred method. It makes unmounting and mounting the engine/transmission soooo much easier. Dave From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com Mon Mar 26 15:05:46 2012 From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad) Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2012 14:05:46 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] part needed tr4 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1332795946.67629.YahooMailNeo@web120504.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> I think what you need is to keep better track of your prop rods. ;-) Chad in Tulsa From: Dave To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, March 26, 2012 2:37 PM Subject: [TR] part needed tr4 sorry - this may or may not have made it through yesterday I'm in need of a hood/bonnect prop rod for an early tr4 if anyone has one to sell. and, btw, need same for a 75 spit (I know - wrong list) ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com From aljlthomson at charter.net Mon Mar 26 15:25:56 2012 From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson) Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2012 17:25:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] Removing TR6 body In-Reply-To: <4F70C08A.1000301@key-men.com> References: <4F70C08A.1000301@key-men.com> Message-ID: <001301cd0b97$0838cd80$18aa6880$@charter.net> I believe that cars were assembled at the factory by letting the body down onto the complete chassis. Definitely the way to go as long as you have the hoist/help/etc. to do it safely. Remember that the body will need to be supported by a sling with multiple places of attachment so the body doesn't fold up. If your body is apart, you may have to attach it in pieces, making sure not to do any permanent welding until all alignment issues have been addressed. My brother put a new Ratco frame under a TR-6. The frame was beautifully done and measurements were perfect. I think the only issue was that the crankshaft pulley was extremely close to the cross member, making fan belt replacement questionable. Don't cut up the old frame until the car is done and under its own power. Alex Thomson -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of George Richardson Sent: Monday, March 26, 2012 3:16 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Removing TR6 body An idle question. Having just removed the rear of the body from my car, I'm contemplating removing the front body. Can the TR6 body be removed with the engine in place? If so, that's what I'll do next. If not, back to the wrenching on the rear end stuff.... Just so we're clear, there ws nothing left connecting the front of the body to the back, and precious little connecting the front of the frame to the rear. Alpine lace cheese is more solid than this frame... -- George Richardson Key Men - Keys for Classics www.key-men.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net From dave at ranteer.com Mon Mar 26 15:45:00 2012 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2012 16:45:00 -0500 Subject: [TR] part needed tr4 In-Reply-To: <1332795946.67629.YahooMailNeo@web120504.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1332795946.67629.YahooMailNeo@web120504.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: funny. but both these cars came to me sans prop rod : ) From: Chad Sent: Monday, March 26, 2012 4:05 PM To: Dave ; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] part needed tr4 I think what you need is to keep better track of your prop rods. ;-) Chad in Tulsa From: Dave To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, March 26, 2012 2:37 PM Subject: [TR] part needed tr4 From gpr at key-men.com Mon Mar 26 16:26:16 2012 From: gpr at key-men.com (George Richardson) Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2012 18:26:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] Removing TR6 body In-Reply-To: <001301cd0b97$0838cd80$18aa6880$@charter.net> References: <4F70C08A.1000301@key-men.com> <001301cd0b97$0838cd80$18aa6880$@charter.net> Message-ID: <4F70ED08.9080400@key-men.com> Been down this road with my TR3. Had to weld the frame, and build the body onto it. No sweat, everything gets lined up and clamped before a single thing gets welded. Oh yeah, also did this for the Stag. And the XJ6. :-) George Richardson Key Men - Keys for Classics www.key-men.com On 3/26/2012 5:25 PM, Alex & Janet Thomson wrote: > I believe that cars were assembled at the factory by letting the body down > onto the complete chassis. Definitely the way to go as long as you have the > hoist/help/etc. to do it safely. Remember that the body will need to be > supported by a sling with multiple places of attachment so the body doesn't > fold up. If your body is apart, you may have to attach it in pieces, making > sure not to do any permanent welding until all alignment issues have been > addressed. My brother put a new Ratco frame under a TR-6. The frame was > beautifully done and measurements were perfect. I think the only issue was > that the crankshaft pulley was extremely close to the cross member, making > fan belt replacement questionable. Don't cut up the old frame until the car > is done and under its own power. > > Alex Thomson > > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of George Richardson > Sent: Monday, March 26, 2012 3:16 PM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] Removing TR6 body > > An idle question. Having just removed the rear of the body from my car, I'm > contemplating removing the front body. > > Can the TR6 body be removed with the engine in place? > > If so, that's what I'll do next. If not, back to the wrenching on the rear > end stuff.... > > Just so we're clear, there ws nothing left connecting the front of the body > to the back, and precious little connecting the front of the frame to the > rear. > > Alpine lace cheese is more solid than this frame... > > -- > George Richardson > Key Men - Keys for Classics > www.key-men.com > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com Mon Mar 26 16:36:00 2012 From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad) Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2012 15:36:00 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Removing TR6 body In-Reply-To: <001301cd0b97$0838cd80$18aa6880$@charter.net> References: <4F70C08A.1000301@key-men.com> <001301cd0b97$0838cd80$18aa6880$@charter.net> Message-ID: <1332801360.82045.YahooMailNeo@web120504.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> YES. A skrawny neighbor and I picked the whole body (sans doors, bonnet, wings, and boot) up off the complete frame. It doesn't weigh much. Chad in Tulsa -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of George Richardson Sent: Monday, March 26, 2012 3:16 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Removing TR6 body An idle question. Having just removed the rear of the body from my car, I'm contemplating removing the front body. Can the TR6 body be removed with the engine in place? If so, that's what I'll do next. If not, back to the wrenching on the rear end stuff.... Just so we're clear, there ws nothing left connecting the front of the body to the back, and precious little connecting the front of the frame to the rear. Alpine lace cheese is more solid than this frame... -- George Richardson Key Men - Keys for Classics www.key-men.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com From dconnitt at fuse.net Mon Mar 26 16:59:27 2012 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2012 18:59:27 -0400 Subject: [TR] Removing TR6 body In-Reply-To: <4F70C08A.1000301@key-men.com> References: <4F70C08A.1000301@key-men.com> Message-ID: George, I did that on my TR4A.. I would think you could do the same with your TR6. Dave Connitt '67 TR4A IRS From fishplate at charter.net Mon Mar 26 18:41:21 2012 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff) Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2012 20:41:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] part needed tr4 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4F710CB1.8040509@charter.net> On 3/26/2012 3:37 PM, Dave wrote: > and, btw, need same for a 75 spit (I know - wrong list) A Spitfire is a Triumph, innit? From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Mar 26 19:54:07 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2012 21:54:07 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] part needed tr4 Message-ID: <92bb.2b57b844.3ca277bf@cs.com> In a message dated 3/26/2012 7:41:27 PM Central Daylight Time, fishplate at charter.net writes: > On 3/26/2012 3:37 PM, Dave wrote: > >and, btw, need same for a 75 spit (I know - wrong list) > > A Spitfire is a Triumph, innit? > > Yes it is and welcome on this list. Anyone who says otherwise will have a fight on his hands. Dave From spook01 at comcast.net Mon Mar 26 20:08:05 2012 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2012 21:08:05 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?part_needed_tr4?= Message-ID: Anyone who owns one ALREADY has a fight on his hands. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: Dave1massey at cs.com To: , Subject: [TR] part needed tr4 Date: Mon, Mar 26, 2012 20:54 In a message dated 3/26/2012 7:41:27 PM Central Daylight Time, fishplate at charter.net writes: > On 3/26/2012 3:37 PM, Dave wrote: > >and, btw, need same for a 75 spit (I know - wrong list) > > A Spitfire is a Triumph, innit? > > Yes it is and welcome on this list. Anyone who says otherwise will have a fight on his hands. Dave ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From tartanredmgb at gmail.com Tue Mar 27 00:07:06 2012 From: tartanredmgb at gmail.com (tartanredmgb at gmail.com) Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2012 23:07:06 -0700 Subject: [TR] CA Black Plates In-Reply-To: <065f01cd0b92$7720c720$65625560$@rr.com> References: <1332788983.75349.YahooMailRC@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <065f01cd0b92$7720c720$65625560$@rr.com> Message-ID: This is interesting regarding specialty California license plates. http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2012/03/26/california-considers-the-return-of-black-license-plates/?refer=news Don Scott Calistoga CA USA 1955 MGTF 1962 MGA Mk 2 1963-7 MGB (seeking) Misc. Japanese cars From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Tue Mar 27 05:35:24 2012 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2012 07:35:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] Tr2 or tr3 steering boot install tips anyone? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: The engine bay is painted and the engine is back in its place. Now to install the boot. The old one was a swollen hard nugget of black goo. Short of using lots of contact cement are there any words of wisdom? My column is in place so I slit the boot at the bottom and used black Max to glue it back together. On the firewall, there is only one screw near the top and no insert in the lower hole. I'm not sure if it's used for the install. Do you trim/cut the boot to slide the edge in the metal slot bracket thing on the firewall. From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Mar 27 06:10:38 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2012 08:10:38 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Tr2 or tr3 steering boot install tips anyone? Message-ID: <2cb1c.7d6fb6b8.3ca3083d@cs.com> I just used a hose clamp and clamped it to the outer steering shaft pushed up against the firewall. We'll see how well that works. Dave In a message dated 3/27/2012 6:36:58 AM Central Daylight Time, ccsimonsen at gmail.com writes: > Now to install the boot. The old one was a swollen hard nugget of black > goo. > > Short of using lots of contact cement are there any words of wisdom? > > My column is in place so I slit the boot at the bottom and used black Max > to glue it back together. > > On the firewall, there is only one screw near the top and no insert in > the > lower hole. I'm not sure if it's used for the install. > > Do you trim/cut the boot to slide the edge in the metal slot bracket thing > on the firewall. From yellowtr at adelphia.net Tue Mar 27 06:46:20 2012 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2012 08:46:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] Tr2 or tr3 steering boot install tips anyone? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4F71B69C.5080204@adelphia.net> Chris, There should be a metal clip, welded to the side of the firewal,l in which you are supposed to tuck in the left side of the boot. This is looking towards the firewall. That should hold the boot in place. Bob On 03/27/2012 07:35 AM, Chris Simo wrote: > The engine bay is painted and the engine is back in its place. > > Now to install the boot. The old one was a swollen hard nugget of black > goo. > > Short of using lots of contact cement are there any words of wisdom? > > My column is in place so I slit the boot at the bottom and used black Max > to glue it back together. > > On the firewall, there is only one screw near the top and no insert in the > lower hole. I'm not sure if it's used for the install. > > Do you trim/cut the boot to slide the edge in the metal slot bracket thing > on the firewall. From wbeech at flash.net Tue Mar 27 08:14:36 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2012 09:14:36 -0500 Subject: [TR] Tr2 or tr3 steering boot install tips anyone? In-Reply-To: <2cb1c.7d6fb6b8.3ca3083d@cs.com> References: <2cb1c.7d6fb6b8.3ca3083d@cs.com> Message-ID: <7D9866285FB4461CA703002A4D28AD47@bboffice> Ditto with Dave, a single wire hose clamp is doing a great job 3,500 miles later, fits well and looks neat. I too was looking for a more engineered fit, but never found it on any of the examples that I looked at. Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" "Hello, my name is Bill and I own an old British car. Now...What are the next 11 steps?" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave1massey at cs.com Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2012 7:11 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Tr2 or tr3 steering boot install tips anyone? I just used a hose clamp and clamped it to the outer steering shaft pushed up against the firewall. We'll see how well that works. Dave In a message dated 3/27/2012 6:36:58 AM Central Daylight Time, ccsimonsen at gmail.com writes: > Now to install the boot. The old one was a swollen hard nugget of > black goo. > > Short of using lots of contact cement are there any words of wisdom? > > My column is in place so I slit the boot at the bottom and used black > Max to glue it back together. > > On the firewall, there is only one screw near the top and no insert > in the lower hole. I'm not sure if it's used for the install. > > Do you trim/cut the boot to slide the edge in the metal slot bracket > thing on the firewall. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From davewillner at pa.net Tue Mar 27 08:43:23 2012 From: davewillner at pa.net (davewillner) Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2012 10:43:23 -0400 Subject: [TR] Tr2 or tr3 steering boot install tips anyone? References: <2cb1c.7d6fb6b8.3ca3083d@cs.com> <7D9866285FB4461CA703002A4D28AD47@bboffice> Message-ID: <14ABDD20FC474315A48E1924EA62E764@valued9cfc0b6f> Chris, I replaced mine recently and I believe there is supposed to be a flat head self tapping screw around 1:00 or so into the firewall. I also cut the boot on the underside and glued together, also snugged an OEM type wire clamp on the column end, but I greased the boot a bit on the inside and didn't really tighten it too tight, this way it won't turn with the column...seems to be working well and may last a bit longer... Dave Willner Stroudsburg PA 59 TR3A 70 MGB 70 BSA 441 VS ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2012 10:14 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Tr2 or tr3 steering boot install tips anyone? > Ditto with Dave, a single wire hose clamp is doing a great job 3,500 miles > later, fits well and looks neat. I too was looking for a more engineered > fit, but never found it on any of the examples that I looked at. > > Bill > > Bill Beecher > '58 TR3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" > www.triumphowners.com/1566 > '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" > "Hello, my name is Bill and I own an old British car. Now...What are the > next 11 steps?" > > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave1massey at cs.com > Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2012 7:11 AM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] Tr2 or tr3 steering boot install tips anyone? > > I just used a hose clamp and clamped it to the outer steering shaft pushed > up against the firewall. We'll see how well that works. > > Dave > > In a message dated 3/27/2012 6:36:58 AM Central Daylight Time, > ccsimonsen at gmail.com writes: >> Now to install the boot. The old one was a swollen hard nugget of >> black goo. >> >> Short of using lots of contact cement are there any words of wisdom? >> >> My column is in place so I slit the boot at the bottom and used black >> Max to glue it back together. >> >> On the firewall, there is only one screw near the top and no insert >> in the lower hole. I'm not sure if it's used for the install. >> >> Do you trim/cut the boot to slide the edge in the metal slot bracket >> thing on the firewall. > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/davewillner at pa.net From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Tue Mar 27 11:45:05 2012 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2012 10:45:05 -0700 Subject: [TR] Tr2 or tr3 steering boot install tips anyone? In-Reply-To: <14ABDD20FC474315A48E1924EA62E764@valued9cfc0b6f> References: <2cb1c.7d6fb6b8.3ca3083d@cs.com> <7D9866285FB4461CA703002A4D28AD47@bboffice> <14ABDD20FC474315A48E1924EA62E764@valued9cfc0b6f> Message-ID: I've used a wire hose clamp and the single screw for many decades -- always thought it was as original. On Tue, Mar 27, 2012 at 7:43 AM, davewillner wrote: > ...also snugged an OEM type wire clamp on the column end, but I greased > the boot a bit on the inside and didn't really tighten it too tight, this > way it won't turn with the column... > On mine the clamped bit is on the outer column which doesn't turn. Geo From agraham at execulink.com Tue Mar 27 12:12:03 2012 From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham) Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2012 14:12:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR 2/3 steering boot - another question. Message-ID: <4F7202F3.8000501@execulink.com> Hello List: Further to Chris' question about the steering boot, I have mine in place with a hose clamp as well. I have a 5/8" hole right beside the larger steering column hole in the bulkhead. The boot does not manage to cover this hole. Just wondering what the hole is for? I think I have all the bulkhead connections made - tach, oil line. speedo, etc. I don't remember what this hole may have been used for. Any ideas? Just plug it? Thanks in advance. Angelo Graham From tjwakeman at gmail.com Tue Mar 27 12:36:05 2012 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2012 11:36:05 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR 2/3 steering boot - another question. In-Reply-To: <4F7202F3.8000501@execulink.com> References: <4F7202F3.8000501@execulink.com> Message-ID: <4F720895.9090801@gmail.com> On 3/27/12 11:12 AM, Angelo Graham wrote: > Hello List: > Further to Chris' question about the steering boot, I have mine in > place with a hose clamp as well. I have a 5/8" hole right beside the > larger steering column hole in the bulkhead. The boot does not manage > to cover this hole. Just wondering what the hole is for? I think I > have all the bulkhead connections made - tach, oil line. speedo, etc. > I don't remember what this hole may have been used for. Any ideas? > Just plug it? > There should be two holes in that vicinity. One for the heater hose mount and one to pass the wiring harness through. Still don't have my URL properly pointed so here goes: www.expeditionlandrover.info//2trSite/Bulkhead.htm Teriann From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Tue Mar 27 12:53:03 2012 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2012 14:53:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR 2/3 steering boot - another question. In-Reply-To: <4F7202F3.8000501@execulink.com> References: <4F7202F3.8000501@execulink.com> Message-ID: I think that lower hole is for a screw mount for the blanking template if it were a left hand drive car. My old boot covered it fully. From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Tue Mar 27 13:03:09 2012 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2012 15:03:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] Seat belt selection and attachment tr2 Message-ID: What are the best options for installing seatbelt in a tr2? No rollbar at this time. I should get them in place before I start joyriding. I owe it to my wife. I have a set of eyebolts from a tr4. So I could go with huge backing washers and a tr4 set of belts. Does anyone have a favorite type and a good mounting set up? Thanks. Chris From davewillner at pa.net Tue Mar 27 13:04:37 2012 From: davewillner at pa.net (davewillner) Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2012 15:04:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR 2/3 steering boot - another question. References: <4F7202F3.8000501@execulink.com> <4F720895.9090801@gmail.com> Message-ID: I think there's another hole, maybe 3/4" or 1" which is about halfway down the steering boot on the right side. It seems the boot covers only half of the hole, I did plug mine with a blanking grommet (for looks), but the carpeting does cover that hole on mine anyway...Not sure the purpose, one of those things ...? Dave Willner Stroudsburg PA 59 TR3A 70 MGB 70 BSA 441 VS ----- Original Message ----- From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" To: "Triumph List" Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2012 2:36 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR 2/3 steering boot - another question. > On 3/27/12 11:12 AM, Angelo Graham wrote: >> Hello List: >> Further to Chris' question about the steering boot, I have mine in place >> with a hose clamp as well. I have a 5/8" hole right beside the larger >> steering column hole in the bulkhead. The boot does not manage to cover >> this hole. Just wondering what the hole is for? I think I have all the >> bulkhead connections made - tach, oil line. speedo, etc. I don't remember >> what this hole may have been used for. Any ideas? Just plug it? >> > There should be two holes in that vicinity. One for the heater hose mount > and one to pass the wiring harness through. > > Still don't have my URL properly pointed so here goes: > > > www.expeditionlandrover.info//2trSite/Bulkhead.htm > > Teriann > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/davewillner at pa.net From trglory at verizon.net Tue Mar 27 13:04:01 2012 From: trglory at verizon.net (Joseph Laurito) Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2012 15:04:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR 2/3 steering boot - another question. In-Reply-To: <4F7202F3.8000501@execulink.com> References: <4F7202F3.8000501@execulink.com> Message-ID: <004301cd0c4c$5fae2af0$1f0a80d0$@net> Use it as an exit point for your scuttle vent drain tube. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Angelo Graham Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2012 2:12 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR 2/3 steering boot - another question. Hello List: Further to Chris' question about the steering boot, I have mine in place with a hose clamp as well. I have a 5/8" hole right beside the larger steering column hole in the bulkhead. The boot does not manage to cover this hole. Just wondering what the hole is for? I think I have all the bulkhead connections made - tach, oil line. speedo, etc. I don't remember what this hole may have been used for. Any ideas? Just plug it? Thanks in advance. Angelo Graham ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trglory at verizon.net From zoboherald at aol.com Tue Mar 27 13:41:45 2012 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace) Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2012 15:41:45 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Seat belt selection and attachment tr2 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CEDA68C70096AF-18E4-7277@Webmail-d112.sysops.aol.com> The eye bolts should be fine, but I'd get a new set of belts to fit to them, unless those TR4 belts are a: NOS and b: have been stored in a climate-controlled dark spot since new. The only "factory" recommendations I've ever seen for belt mounts all pertain to the post-TS60000 bodies. I suspect that the strongest areas of metal for locating those eye bolts might be the propeller shaft tunnel and the side inner structure behind the door "B" post. The only question I'd have about the propeller shaft tunnel would be clearance with a spinning propeller shaft. I don't know these cars well enough to know what sort of structure comprises that inner body area behind the door, but -- at worst -- there should be decent access to the area to add any necessary reinforcement. Andover Restraints has a great selection of belts as well as mounting and reinforcing hardware, including almost as many colors of webbing as there are Crayola crayons! :) I've been happy with belts I've bought from them, but there are many, many other suppliers out there. --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us -----Original Message----- From: Chris Simo To: list Triumph Sent: Tue, Mar 27, 2012 3:05 pm Subject: [TR] Seat belt selection and attachment tr2 What are the best options for installing seatbelt in a tr2? No rollbar at this time. I should get them in place before I start joyriding. I owe it to my wife. I have a set of eyebolts from a tr4. So I could go with huge backing washers and a tr4 set of belts. Does anyone have a favorite type and a good mounting set up? From dave at ranteer.com Tue Mar 27 13:46:11 2012 From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave) Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2012 14:46:11 -0500 Subject: [TR] Seat belt selection and attachment tr2 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <34E47990BF404107BAB1F96266CE115A@Stag> I know lap belts interfere less and are cool. get a shoulder harness. bolt it back to the wheel well. vicky brit has a nice set; look under spitfire parts. come in different colors. some say you shouldn't do that; you can get spine compression in a serious accident. without a shoulder harness you'll get to redo your nose. mine was broken three times over 40 years. after the third break I had it redone. never want to go through that again -----Original Message----- From: Chris Simo Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2012 2:03 PM To: list Triumph Subject: [TR] Seat belt selection and attachment tr2 What are the best options for installing seatbelt in a tr2? No rollbar at this time. I should get them in place before I start joyriding. I owe it to my wife. I have a set of eyebolts from a tr4. So I could go with huge backing washers and a tr4 set of belts. Does anyone have a favorite type and a good mounting set up? From fishplate at charter.net Tue Mar 27 18:18:48 2012 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff) Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2012 20:18:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] part needed tr4 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4F7258E8.9070007@charter.net> On 3/26/2012 10:08 PM, spook01 at comcast.net wrote: > Anyone who owns one ALREADY has a fight on his hands. What about the guy that owns more than one? http://fishplate.org/vehicles/spitfire/ Note: Parts cars not shown... Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. From allegrorover at mac.com Tue Mar 27 18:28:40 2012 From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio) Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2012 20:28:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fwd: rear main oil seal References: Message-ID: Begin forwarded message: > From: Anthony Cascio > Subject: rear main oil seal > Date: March 27, 2012 8:26:12 PM EDT > To: Undisclosed-recipients: <>; > Cc: Anthony Cascio > > list, I know this has been discussed many times over BUT, a friend of mine is restoring a TR2 and when he had the engine rebuilt he did NOT install either of the new type rear main oil seals. > Now that he has started the car it of course leaks > Is it possible to install the newest type seal (the one that doesn't require crankshaft modification) by dropping the pan and the rear bearing????? > I would like to help him out as he has devoted a lot of time to this restoration and it seems ashamed not to try and fix the leak. > Thanks > > Tony Cascio > 58 TR3A > TS27093L > allegrorover at mac.com > www.triumphowners.com/1489 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Mar 27 18:49:29 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2012 17:49:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR 2/3 steering boot - another question. In-Reply-To: <4F7202F3.8000501@execulink.com> References: <4F7202F3.8000501@execulink.com> Message-ID: <002401cd0c7c$a2501e10$e6f05a30$@rr.com> > I have a 5/8" hole right beside the larger > steering column hole in the bulkhead. I think someone said this already, so I'm seconding: It's the mounting point for the blanking plate (when the steering column is on the other side). I believe it would have had a rubber plug on the steering side, but I'm not certain of that. There is a metal clip that goes in the hole on the non-steering side and then a screw with funky threads that goes into the clip to secure the plate and gasket. Actually, the boot I got most recently covered the entire hole when pressed up against the firewall/bulkhead. But it didn't last very long and is a real PITA to replace on an early car with the solid steering column. So I left the remains in place, and fabricated a secondary seal to go inside the bulkhead. -- Randall From spook01 at comcast.net Tue Mar 27 19:28:54 2012 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2012 20:28:54 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?part_needed_tr4?= Message-ID: I speak from experience! I put the drivetrain from a gt6 in mine. Well, along with the bonnet, the radiator mounts, the radiator and other bits. Fun car. But a pita to work on. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Jeff" To: "*Triumphs List" Subject: [TR] part needed tr4 Date: Tue, Mar 27, 2012 19:18 On 3/26/2012 10:08 PM, spook01 at comcast.net wrote: > Anyone who owns one ALREADY has a fight on his hands. What about the guy that owns more than one? http://fishplate.org/vehicles/spitfire/ Note: Parts cars not shown... Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Mar 28 05:48:09 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2012 07:48:09 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] part needed tr4 Message-ID: <32fd.4e16802e.3ca45479@cs.com> In a message dated 3/27/2012 7:23:47 PM Central Daylight Time, fishplate at charter.net writes: > http://fishplate.org/vehicles/spitfire/ Ooo. Overdrive. Way cool. Nice collection. Dave From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Mar 28 06:30:19 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2012 05:30:19 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR 2/3 steering boot - another question. In-Reply-To: <4F7202F3.8000501@execulink.com> References: <4F7202F3.8000501@execulink.com> Message-ID: <031801cd0cde$8a3d2b30$0301a8c0@randall> > I have a 5/8" hole right beside the larger > steering column hole in the bulkhead. The boot does not > manage to cover > this hole. This one? http://goo.gl/tR5Oh -- Randall From tr3abobm77 at frontier.com Wed Mar 28 09:33:13 2012 From: tr3abobm77 at frontier.com (tr3abobm77 at frontier.com) Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2012 15:33:13 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Fwd: rear main oil seal In-Reply-To: <1720891400.1342573.1332948282627.JavaMail.root@cl02-host04.dlls.pa.frontiernet.net> Message-ID: <1020753005.1342724.1332948793467.JavaMail.root@cl02-host04.dlls.pa.frontiernet.net> Anthony, I assume you are talking about the Christian Marx seal. The flywheel has to be off to get to the bolts for the stock seal so it can be machined or replaced with one that has already been machined for the new seal. So that means pulling the tranny at the very least. You may be able to finagle the new parts around the crank without pulling the crank but I didn't do mine that way so I don't know for sure. My engine was upside down on an engine stand when I did mine a year ago. By most accounts you are supposed to use an alignment tool to center the aluminum parts so the crank has to be out for that anyway. You could probably leave the engine in the car. When I tried to use the alignment tool I found that once I snugged down the bearing bolts there was absolutely no slack in the scroll seal anyway and that is the way it came from the factory. So the tool made no difference. I recently intalled the Eaglegate Toyota transmission kit and had the flywheel off to change the pilot bushing and everything was dry there so I know the Marx seal works. I have pictures of that at www.photobucket.com/bobtr3atranny if anyone cares to look. Good luck on the seal. Cosmo Kramer is also doing the Marx seal so he may have an update. Bob Maassel Fort Wayne TS39869L tr3abobm77 at frontier.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Anthony Cascio" To: "triumphs-request at autox.team.net car discussion" Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2012 8:28:40 PM Subject: [TR] Fwd: rear main oil seal Begin forwarded message: > From: Anthony Cascio > Subject: rear main oil seal > Date: March 27, 2012 8:26:12 PM EDT > To: Undisclosed-recipients: <>; > Cc: Anthony Cascio > > list, I know this has been discussed many times over BUT, a friend of mine is restoring a TR2 and when he had the engine rebuilt he did NOT install either of the new type rear main oil seals. > Now that he has started the car it of course leaks > Is it possible to install the newest type seal (the one that doesn't require crankshaft modification) by dropping the pan and the rear bearing????? > I would like to help him out as he has devoted a lot of time to this restoration and it seems ashamed not to try and fix the leak. > Thanks > > Tony Cascio > 58 TR3A > TS27093L > allegrorover at mac.com > www.triumphowners.com/1489 ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3abobm77 at frontier.com From agraham at execulink.com Wed Mar 28 11:52:48 2012 From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham) Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2012 13:52:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 static timing. Message-ID: <4F734FF0.4030202@execulink.com> Hello List: Just re-installing my distributor after fitting a new shaft bush. Reviewing the steps for static timing and wondering about the position of the vernier adjustment screw at this point. Before starting to static time the distributor, is it important to fully turn in the vernier adjuster to full advance or does it matter where the vernier is set to? Will follow Ken Gillanders' steps for static timing; just no mention of the role of the vernier in his instruction sheet. Thanks in advance. Angelo Graham From davewillner at pa.net Wed Mar 28 12:36:44 2012 From: davewillner at pa.net (davewillner) Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2012 14:36:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] [British-cars] "FP" series keys? References: <86EF061CFE6A45A2827AAAC0ACDFEE07@bboffice> Message-ID: Bill, Did you try Pete in Md? Pete Groh 9957 Frederick Rd Ellicott City, Md. 21042-3647 U.SO.A. (410) 750-2352 Evenings http://www.britishcarkeys.com Locks and keys http://www.team.net/www/rootes/sunbeam/alpine/mk1-5/techtips/keys.html Dave Willner Stroudsburg PA 59 TR3A 70 MGB 70 BSA 441 VS ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2012 1:35 PM Subject: [British-cars] "FP" series keys? > Looking for a couple of "FP" series key blanks with the Austin-Healy logo > on > them. Have checked at Moss & AH Spares but they only stock a generic "FP" > key. Need FP-717. > > > Thanks, > Bill > _______________________________________________ > British-cars at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/british-cars/davewillner at pa.net From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Mar 28 14:04:17 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2012 13:04:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 static timing. In-Reply-To: <4F734FF0.4030202@execulink.com> References: <4F734FF0.4030202@execulink.com> Message-ID: <00fa01cd0d1d$f5ef3640$e1cda2c0$@rr.com> > does it matter where the vernier is set to? As I recall, Ken's instructions were to set about 8 BTDC by measuring along the surface of the front pulley from the hole at TDC. If you are using that method, I suggest setting the vernier to the center of its range first. It doesn't affect the timing you are setting, but that gives you the maximum range for tweaking the timing later on. But if you are following the book directions to set the timing directly to TDC (using the hole) and then advance by 4 degrees, then I would set the vernier to 4 or 6 degrees retarded first; so again it will be close to center when you are done. By far the most important thing is to be sure the engine does not ping (knock, predetonate, whatever you want to call it) under any normal condition. The vernier is really handy because if you do hear pinging (say when you are stuck in traffic and underhood temps are pushing 200F), you can pull over and back off by a degree. -- Randall From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Wed Mar 28 21:51:45 2012 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2012 20:51:45 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] rear main oil seal Message-ID: <1332993105.51937.YahooMailNeo@web39405.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2012 20:28:40 -0400 From: Anthony Cascio Subject: [TR] Fwd: rear main oil seal Begin forwarded message: > From: Anthony Cascio > Subject: rear main oil seal > Date: March 27, 2012 8:26:12 PM EDT > To: Undisclosed-recipients: <>; > Cc: Anthony Cascio > > list, I know this has been discussed many times over BUT, a friend of mine is restoring a TR2 and when he had the engine rebuilt he did NOT install either of the new type rear main oil seals. > Now that he has started the car it of course leaks > Is it possible to install the newest type seal (the one that doesn't require crankshaft modification) by dropping the pan and the rear bearing????? > I would like to help him out as he has devoted a lot of time to this restoration and it seems ashamed not to try and fix the leak. > Thanks > > Tony Cascio --------------------------------------------- Hi Tony! I've just got finished installing the Christian Marx Seal (CMS) this winter & made modifications to the original CMS set up. I have (so far) only started up the Garage Queen (GQ= TR4A) several times to check out several modifications that I have made to the GQ. EX- Modifying the CMS, changing the Close Breathing System (BS) to an Open BS to a an Open/Close BS, along with the Toyota tranny/Center Dash support , etc. I'm still work out the bugs of these changes, BUT I can say that my modifications to the CMS has proven to NO OIL Leak!The only Oil Leak I have seen, right now, is a drip (that hasn't landed 'yet' from the Sump Pan drain stop. In the attachment is a future insert for my "Cosmo's TR4/A E-mail Repair Manual" Up date. If you have ANY questions, then PLEASE E-mail me & I shall do my best to answer them. BTW- Bob M. had pointed out to me to shorten the Fly Wheel mounting bolts to make sure that they do NOT touch the CMS. I shall include those pictures also in the #2 attachment. BTW- To answer your main question of installing the CMS while the engine is in the car. I would say that I guess you could but I STRONGLY ADVISE AGAINST DOING THAT!I feel that you might not do as good a job & it would end up being a waist of time & money. BUT you do as you wish because it's your car. -Cosmo Kramer [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/vnd] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 01.26.12-D 013 Shorting FW Bolts.JPG] From coefront at shaw.ca Thu Mar 29 13:41:01 2012 From: coefront at shaw.ca (Mike Coe) Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2012 13:41:01 -0600 Subject: [TR] Steering wheel Message-ID: <12D396CE073745A3AD7EB6F785269407@OwnerHP> Ibve for sale a 13b leather steering wheel by Mountney GT Britain. It attached with six bolts 4b apart. Inner circle is three and a half inches in diameter. Mike. coefornt at shaw.ca From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Thu Mar 29 15:28:33 2012 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2012 14:28:33 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR 2/3 steering boot - another question. In-Reply-To: <002401cd0c7c$a2501e10$e6f05a30$@rr.com> References: <4F7202F3.8000501@execulink.com> <002401cd0c7c$a2501e10$e6f05a30$@rr.com> Message-ID: On Tue, Mar 27, 2012 at 5:49 PM, Randall wrote: > > I have a 5/8" hole right beside the larger > > steering column hole in the bulkhead. > > I think someone said this already, so I'm seconding: It's the mounting > point > for the blanking plate (when the steering column is on the other side). > Could be, but mine (TS47901) has that hole peeking out from behind the boot but does not have the RHD blanking plates for either steering or pedal box -- so it was a strictly LHD body. G From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Mar 29 16:01:32 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2012 15:01:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR 2/3 steering boot - another question. In-Reply-To: References: <4F7202F3.8000501@execulink.com> <002401cd0c7c$a2501e10$e6f05a30$@rr.com> Message-ID: <02b901cd0df7$80b262f0$821728d0$@rr.com> > Could be, but mine (TS47901) has that hole peeking out from behind the > boot > but does not have the RHD blanking plates for either steering or pedal > box > -- so it was a strictly LHD body. Ok, so they forgot to delete the hole on the other side I'm curious, though, where does your scuttle vent drain lead to? I thought the consensus before was that it always went through the middle of the blanking plate gasket, but you don't have one. -- Randall From wbeech at flash.net Thu Mar 29 17:03:22 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2012 18:03:22 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR 2/3 steering boot - another question. In-Reply-To: References: <4F7202F3.8000501@execulink.com> <002401cd0c7c$a2501e10$e6f05a30$@rr.com> Message-ID: <9D65A57F-B0E3-4D82-BD98-7A2F308CAF9E@flash.net> I've got that hole too, half covered by the boot, I just plugged it. BB Sent from mobile Bill On Mar 29, 2012, at 4:28 PM, Geo Hahn wrote: > On Tue, Mar 27, 2012 at 5:49 PM, Randall wrote: > >>> I have a 5/8" hole right beside the larger >>> steering column hole in the bulkhead. >> >> I think someone said this already, so I'm seconding: It's the mounting >> point >> for the blanking plate (when the steering column is on the other side). >> > > > Could be, but mine (TS47901) has that hole peeking out from behind the boot > but does not have the RHD blanking plates for either steering or pedal box > -- so it was a strictly LHD body. > > G > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From goh62agan at verizon.net Thu Mar 29 17:52:11 2012 From: goh62agan at verizon.net (goh62agan at verizon.net) Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2012 18:52:11 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Present For You Message-ID: <11095158.1816528.1333065131582.JavaMail.root@vznit170130> I was really impressed http://sethsp.com/message.php?p0020 Check it whenever u get a chance! From fogbro1 at comcast.net Thu Mar 29 17:57:37 2012 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2012 23:57:37 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR 2/3 steering boot - another question. In-Reply-To: <02b901cd0df7$80b262f0$821728d0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <1478051465.838416.1333065457235.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> List, My car, TS78xxxL, has a bulkhead hole with a raised lip on the engine side (#22 in Teri Ann's drawing).B I've always considered this to be the exit point for the scuttle vent hose. It also has the partially covered hole near the steering column excluder which presently has a rubber plug. Ed Woods From spook01 at comcast.net Thu Mar 29 18:04:55 2012 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Thu, 29 Mar 2012 19:04:55 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Present_For_You?= Message-ID: Another hack. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: goh62agan at verizon.net To: Subject: [TR] Present For You Date: Thu, Mar 29, 2012 18:52 I was really impressed http://sethsp.com/message.php?p0020 Check it whenever u get a chance! ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From pbrandsema at triad.rr.com Fri Mar 30 11:15:36 2012 From: pbrandsema at triad.rr.com (pbrandsema at triad.rr.com) Date: Fri, 30 Mar 2012 13:15:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 Generator Electrical Arcing Message-ID: <20120330171536.21SA4.66304.root@hrndva-web09-z01> Has anyone had an experience with the generator (sorry, dynamo..) on a TR4, where electrical arcing was visible at the rear of the unit? I wouldn't have noticed this ordinarily, but I happened to have the bonnet up last night to rev the engine and found that the higher the revs, the more arcing I see inside the back of the generator. What also helped is that I had turned most of the lights off in the garage to keep the bugs from swarming in. Besides a total failure of the charging system, my biggest fear is that if for some reason I had a fuel leak, the arc would not be a good thing. Is this a sign of worn brushes? I've always considered converting to an alternator, but don't have the time (or money) right now and the car has to be ready for a trip in 2 weeks. Brushes are cheap and should be easy to replace. I just don't want to waste the time that it will take to order them if it's something more serious. Thanks Paul 61 TR4 From peter at nosimport.com Fri Mar 30 13:44:48 2012 From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter Caldwell) Date: Fri, 30 Mar 2012 14:44:48 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR250/6 Front bushings Message-ID: <20120330194448.E643A9A449E@mx2.netinteraction.com> Was there, or is there, a one piece rubber inner upper arm bushing? Instead of the usual 2 piece. I just saw them on a car, and hadn't seen it before. Peter C... more than curious From aljlthomson at charter.net Fri Mar 30 14:58:45 2012 From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson) Date: Fri, 30 Mar 2012 16:58:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 Generator Electrical Arcing In-Reply-To: <20120330171536.21SA4.66304.root@hrndva-web09-z01> References: <20120330171536.21SA4.66304.root@hrndva-web09-z01> Message-ID: <004301cd0eb7$e78c5470$b6a4fd50$@charter.net> Can't remember the whole detail, but I think that may mean the mica insulation between the commutator segments may need to be cut down. As the copper segments wear down, the mica insulation prevents the carbon brushes from making good contact with the armature. Seek out an old-style auto-electric shop for details. A shop that specializes in farm, industrial and truck components would be best. In my experience with old farm tractors, there will always be a little arcing. Also, make sure that the carbon brushes still float in their holders. If dirt has bound them up, they won't make good contact with the armature. Also, make sure that the brush holders still swing freely on their pivots, if so equipped. Check the bearings/bushings at each end of the unit for excessive wear. Our TR-6 starter became less enthusiastic as time went on. We replaced it with a gear reduction unit and, after inspecting the old starter, I'll never know why it even worked. Alex Thomson -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of pbrandsema at triad.rr.com Sent: Friday, March 30, 2012 1:16 PM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR4 Generator Electrical Arcing Has anyone had an experience with the generator (sorry, dynamo..) on a TR4, where electrical arcing was visible at the rear of the unit? I wouldn't have noticed this ordinarily, but I happened to have the bonnet up last night to rev the engine and found that the higher the revs, the more arcing I see inside the back of the generator. What also helped is that I had turned most of the lights off in the garage to keep the bugs from swarming in. Besides a total failure of the charging system, my biggest fear is that if for some reason I had a fuel leak, the arc would not be a good thing. Is this a sign of worn brushes? I've always considered converting to an alternator, but don't have the time (or money) right now and the car has to be ready for a trip in 2 weeks. Brushes are cheap and should be easy to replace. I just don't want to waste the time that it will take to order them if it's something more serious. Thanks Paul 61 TR4 ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net From gpr at key-men.com Fri Mar 30 18:41:17 2012 From: gpr at key-men.com (George Richardson) Date: Fri, 30 Mar 2012 20:41:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 air pump Message-ID: <4F7652AD.2060105@key-men.com> I've just started stripping the engine of the '75 TR6 in preparation for removing the front of the body tube and noticed the air injection pump and accessories on the engine. What's the consensus on this stuff? I live in New York state, do I need to be concerned about it? It seem like a lot to tack onto this engine for no good purpose, and I'd just as soon remove it if I can get by without it. -- George Richardson Key Men - Keys for Classics www.key-men.com From tr6guy at cox.net Fri Mar 30 20:22:02 2012 From: tr6guy at cox.net (Cox) Date: Fri, 30 Mar 2012 22:22:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 air pump In-Reply-To: <4F7652AD.2060105@key-men.com> References: <4F7652AD.2060105@key-men.com> Message-ID: <31497F53-62DF-4B30-BE90-2576A912B10D@cox.net> If you remove it as I did on my 75, I would recommend holding onto it as some states require the smog equipment and I like holding onto the factory parts for the car. Jim Henningsen Ocala, FL 75 TR6 62 TR4 currently getting painted Sent from my iPad On Mar 30, 2012, at 8:41 PM, George Richardson wrote: > I've just started stripping the engine of the '75 TR6 in preparation for removing the front of the body tube and noticed the air injection pump and accessories on the engine. > > What's the consensus on this stuff? I live in New York state, do I need to be concerned about it? > > It seem like a lot to tack onto this engine for no good purpose, and I'd just as soon remove it if I can get by without it. > > -- > George Richardson > Key Men - Keys for Classics > www.key-men.com > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr6guy at cox.net From don.hiscock at gmail.com Fri Mar 30 23:16:18 2012 From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2012 01:16:18 -0400 Subject: [TR] License Plate Brackets for TR3s? Message-ID: My TR3B (TSF202L) had an odd bracket mounted to the spare tire cover when I got it in 1981. A piece of stamped steel shaped sort of like a channel with a flattened section in the middle. The two bolts holding it to the panel are closer spaced than license plate holes, and it has two slotted holes spaced farther apart that do match up to the plate. Here's an image: http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-RbBVvNr/0/XL/i-RbBVvNr-XL.jpg I haven't seen another one quite like this. There's probably a reason for that -- it really doesn't work that well. Awkward to mount plates onto it. As TSF202L comes back on the road over the next month I'm considering options for mounting the plate to the rear. One of the best suggestions so far (thanks, Tom) is to drill four holes in the panel, insert rubber grommets, and bolt the plate directly. Any other good ideas? Anyone else see that goofy bracket before? Don Saint Louis From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Sat Mar 31 05:19:03 2012 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2012 04:19:03 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR4 Generator Electrical Arcing Message-ID: <1333192743.37278.YahooMailNeo@web39403.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Paul wrote: Has anyone had an experience with the generator (sorry, dynamo..) on a TR4, where electrical arcing was visible at the rear of the unit? I wouldn't have noticed this ordinarily, but I happened to have the bonnet up last night to rev the engine and found that the higher the revs, the more arcing I see inside the back of the generator. What also helped is that I had turned most of the lights off in the garage to keep the bugs from swarming in. Besides a total failure of the charging system, my biggest fear is that if for some reason I had a fuel leak, the arc would not be a good thing. Is this a sign of worn brushes? I've always considered converting to an alternator, but don't have the time (or money) right now and the car has to be ready for a trip in 2 weeks. Brushes are cheap and should be easy to replace. I just don't want to waste the time that it will take to order them if it's something more serious. Paul ---------------------- Hi List & Paul! Yes, that would be the first thing that I would look at. You are correct in the point that brushes are a cheaper way to go, vs an Alt. conversion. I do agree that it will take time & money, but so will the alt. conversing. My suggestion is to plan some time out of your busy life & work on the TRIUMPH BEFORE you leave for your trip, or don't take the TRIUMPH or may be the trip & use that time & money for fixing the TRIUMPH? That's where I'm at for the Mighty, at the end of April. It's no fun having to take the time out on the side of the road to fix anything on any car when you could be doing something else on the trip (don't ask me how I know). Like it was stated in a commercial back in time, "You can pay me now or you can pay me later." Time is money. BTW- This most likely has been happening for quite some time & you just happened to noticed it now. It just might me needing a good cleaning or your routine maintenance. BUT! It WILL take time! -Cosmo Kramer From Dave1massey at cs.com Sat Mar 31 07:43:11 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2012 09:43:11 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 air pump Message-ID: <53d74.4592ed58.3ca863ef@cs.com> In a message dated 3/30/2012 9:22:13 PM Central Daylight Time, tr6guy at cox.net writes: > If you remove it as I did on my 75, I would recommend holding onto it as > some > states require the smog equipment and I like holding onto the factory > parts > for the car. > And store it in a dry place. These things like to seize up if not exercised frequently. But the worst thing you can do is just remove the belt and leave it in place. In this case small amounts of exhaust gas will bleed past the check valve and accelerate vane corrosion. Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Sat Mar 31 07:59:32 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2012 09:59:32 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] License Plate Brackets for TR3s? Message-ID: <54330.65cb0c93.3ca867c4@cs.com> In a message dated 3/31/2012 12:19:41 AM Central Daylight Time, don.hiscock at gmail.com writes: > My TR3B (TSF202L) had an odd bracket mounted to the spare tire cover when > I > got it in 1981. A piece of stamped steel shaped sort of like a channel > with a flattened section in the middle. The two bolts holding it to the > panel are closer spaced than license plate holes, and it has two slotted > holes spaced farther apart that do match up to the plate. > > Here's an image: > http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-RbBVvNr/0/XL/i-RbBVvNr-XL.jpg > > I haven't seen another one quite like this. There's probably a reason for > that -- it really doesn't work that well. Awkward to mount plates onto > it. > As TSF202L comes back on the road over the next month I'm considering > options for mounting the plate to the rear. One of the best suggestions > so > far (thanks, Tom) is to drill four holes in the panel, insert rubber > grommets, and bolt the plate directly. > > Any other good ideas? Anyone else see that goofy bracket before? > Maybe mine is not factory but my car came with the plate bolted directly to the spare tire cover. The holes were properly spaced for a US plate. I mounted it using stainless steel truss-head screws and 1/8 inch thick nylon spacers. Come see it at the Easter car show at the Muny lot. Dave Massey, St. Louis From wbeech at flash.net Sat Mar 31 08:07:10 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2012 09:07:10 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Castor Angle? Message-ID: <2E5A12970C3A438AB5897784E1475429@bboffice> When I ask my alignment guy why the steering on my car does not try to return to center after a turn he explained it was because the castor was set at nil and is not adjustable. Is there an alternative way to make the steering a little more driver friendly? I have not gone to R&P steering as I am trying to keep this car as original as possible. Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" "Hello, my name is Bill and I own an old British car. Now...What are the next 11 steps?" From glemon at neb.rr.com Sat Mar 31 08:49:02 2012 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2012 09:49:02 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 Generator Electrical Arcing In-Reply-To: <1333192743.37278.YahooMailNeo@web39403.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <1333192743.37278.YahooMailNeo@web39403.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8A41FE9611594533B9B2E6612DD83AF7@GregPC> Paul, here is a quite detailed article on servicing a Lucas dynamo. http://www.justbrits.com/Articles/Lucas04.pdf More theory than I would ever want to know or understand, but go to page 17 for maintanance. Lastly I believe the factory and Haynes manuals usually have instructions on cutting down the Micanite insulation between the commutators, but I couldn't find a reference on the internet, but the article above does refer to sparking and polishing the commutator. Regards, Greg Lemon From gpr at key-men.com Sat Mar 31 09:30:32 2012 From: gpr at key-men.com (George Richardson) Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2012 11:30:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 air pump In-Reply-To: <53d74.4592ed58.3ca863ef@cs.com> References: <53d74.4592ed58.3ca863ef@cs.com> Message-ID: <4F772318.2030001@key-men.com> Since it's been sitting outdoors with no cover on the engine compartment for the past 12 years, I doubt changing how I store it will matter much now. :-) George Richardson Key Men - Keys for Classics www.key-men.com On 3/31/2012 9:43 AM, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > In a message dated 3/30/2012 9:22:13 PM Central Daylight Time, > tr6guy at cox.net writes: >> If you remove it as I did on my 75, I would recommend holding onto it as >> some >> states require the smog equipment and I like holding onto the factory >> parts >> for the car. >> > And store it in a dry place. These things like to seize up if not > exercised frequently. But the worst thing you can do is just remove the belt and > leave it in place. In this case small amounts of exhaust gas will bleed past > the check valve and accelerate vane corrosion. > > Dave > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/gpr at key-men.com From coefront at shaw.ca Sat Mar 31 12:28:07 2012 From: coefront at shaw.ca (Mike Coe) Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2012 12:28:07 -0600 Subject: [TR] Steering wheel Message-ID: <55E87F810A434806B5607964EF7A688C@OwnerHP> My previous for sale item b leather covered steering wheel b showed weird numbers. Particularly the wheels dimensions are: the wheel itself is 13 inches in diameter, with 6 bolt holes 4 inches apart, and the inner ring is three and a half inches. $100.00. The previous seller from our group told me it fits a TR8. Nope, it doesnbt. But it has to fit other TRbs ? Mike coefront at shaw.ca From auprichard at uprichard.net Sat Mar 31 13:50:42 2012 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2012 15:50:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Castor Angle? In-Reply-To: <2E5A12970C3A438AB5897784E1475429@bboffice> References: <2E5A12970C3A438AB5897784E1475429@bboffice> Message-ID: <05BAC397AC384CF984356999B0CDCC8B@DCH6RFC1> The TR3 has zero degrees of castor: it is possible to install TR4 upper wishbones to gain (I think it is 3 degrees) castor, but one then also has to have a corresponding trunnion. I did this on TS 51185LO and it was sweet - but clearly not "as original as possible". Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of wbeech at flash.net Sent: Saturday, March 31, 2012 10:07 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR3 Castor Angle? When I ask my alignment guy why the steering on my car does not try to return to center after a turn he explained it was because the castor was set at nil and is not adjustable. Is there an alternative way to make the steering a little more driver friendly? I have not gone to R&P steering as I am trying to keep this car as original as possible. Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" "Hello, my name is Bill and I own an old British car. Now...What are the next 11 steps?" ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From rpeglow at optonline.net Sat Mar 31 13:51:31 2012 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2012 15:51:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 air pump In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hey George, I have a '71 in NY and it is never emissions tested, just gets a safety inspection. NYDMV website says no emissions testing for cars over 25 model years old. Regards, Bob Date: Fri, 30 Mar 2012 20:41:17 -0400 From: George Richardson To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR6 air pump Message-ID: <4F7652AD.2060105 at key-men.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed I've just started stripping the engine of the '75 TR6 in preparation for removing the front of the body tube and noticed the air injection pump and accessories on the engine. What's the consensus on this stuff? I live in New York state, do I need to be concerned about it? It seem like a lot to tack onto this engine for no good purpose, and I'd just as soon remove it if I can get by without it. -- George Richardson Key Men - Keys for Classics www.key-men.com From Dave1massey at cs.com Sat Mar 31 15:22:23 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2012 17:22:23 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 air pump Message-ID: <47469.4d1f2ba6.3ca8cf8f@cs.com> In a message dated 3/31/2012 10:30:11 AM Central Daylight Time, gpr at key-men.com writes: > Since it's been sitting outdoors with no cover on the engine compartment > for the past 12 years, I doubt changing how I store it will matter much > now. :-) > Then one has to wonder if the engine is any good. ;-) Dave From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Mar 31 15:31:33 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2012 14:31:33 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Castor Angle? In-Reply-To: <2E5A12970C3A438AB5897784E1475429@bboffice> References: <2E5A12970C3A438AB5897784E1475429@bboffice> Message-ID: <026501cd0f85$a53ae5e0$0601a8c0@randall> It is true that the TR3 has zero caster "as original". However it is NOT true that you should have to turn the wheel back to center. I've owned several of them now, and they all self-centered after a turn just fine (although they do have more of a tendency to follow ruts in the road than other cars). The sole exception was a TR3A that proved to have one of the suspension mounts ripped loose from the frame. The alignment guy did not spot the problem, even after I took the car back complaining it didn't steer right. I would start by asking him to measure the camber and caster angles, plus the steering axis inclination (aka king pin inclination). Many shops will not measure these, on the premise that they are "not adjustable", unless you specifically ask them to. In fact, the shop the wife took her Toyota to last time didn't want to measure them even though the Toy _is_ adjustable; and they even charged extra for doing the rest of the alignment. (Borders on bait and switch IMO, but we'll just never go back there.) If any of the angles are wrong, it indicates some sort of damage which can be repaired. IOW they are adjustable, it just isn't as easy as turning a screw. -- Randall PS, "Castor" is a kind of bean. From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Mar 31 15:48:14 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2012 14:48:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 Generator Electrical Arcing In-Reply-To: <8A41FE9611594533B9B2E6612DD83AF7@GregPC> References: <1333192743.37278.YahooMailNeo@web39403.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <8A41FE9611594533B9B2E6612DD83AF7@GregPC> Message-ID: <026a01cd0f87$f9ce9780$0601a8c0@randall> > Lastly I believe the factory and Haynes manuals usually have > instructions on > cutting down the Micanite insulation between the commutators, > but I couldn't > find a reference on the internet, Here's a copy of the TR3 workshop manual, with instructions on undercutting the mica. http://goo.gl/8jHM5 Basically, you take a sharp, fine tooth hacksaw blade and grind the sides until it is the same width as the insulator; then use it to cut the slot to about .030" (1/32") deep. A hobby "razor saw" would probably work too. However, I tend to doubt that is the problem. Normally the mica only needs to be undercut after the commutator has been turned down. As long as it is not actually protruding, the generator will still work fine (the .030" is for wear allowance). Some sparking is normal; excessive sparking usually indicates a problem with the brushes, brush springs (insufficient tension) or something wrong within the armature (open or shorted winding). -- Randall From gpr at key-men.com Sat Mar 31 16:45:21 2012 From: gpr at key-men.com (George Richardson) Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2012 18:45:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 air pump In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4F778901.9050609@key-men.com> Thanks Bob, I'm gonna kill the air pump. If it's not already dead! George Richardson Key Men - Keys for Classics www.key-men.com On 3/31/2012 3:51 PM, Bob wrote: > Hey George, > I have a '71 in NY and it is never emissions tested, just gets a safety > inspection. > NYDMV website says no emissions testing for cars over 25 model years old. > Regards, > Bob > > Date: Fri, 30 Mar 2012 20:41:17 -0400 > From: George Richardson > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] TR6 air pump > Message-ID:<4F7652AD.2060105 at key-men.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed > I've just started stripping the engine of the '75 TR6 in preparation for > removing the front of the body tube and noticed the air injection pump and > accessories on the engine. > What's the consensus on this stuff? I live in New York state, do I need to > be concerned about it? > It seem like a lot to tack onto this engine for no good purpose, and I'd > just as soon remove it if I can get by without it. > -- > George Richardson > Key Men - Keys for Classics > www.key-men.com > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/gpr at key-men.com From wbeech at flash.net Sat Mar 31 17:54:18 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2012 18:54:18 -0500 Subject: [TR] Is this thing on?? In-Reply-To: <20120316031737.5C9052E068@bradakis.com> References: <20120316031737.5C9052E068@bradakis.com> Message-ID: Mark, I can only see Archives from 2009. I'm always a few steps behind the rest of the pack but others might be interested to know what happened yesterday. Thanks, Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2012 10:18 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Is this thing on?? Those of you who get these messages in real time and not in digest mode should see some links below. One is to the Team.Net email archives. If you have a minute click on the link. Try a search. Tell us what happens. Well, not all at once, we don't need hundreds and hundreds of test results messages flooding our inboxes. mjb, who may have fixed one issue. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net