From bill_beecher at flash.net Fri Jun 1 10:41:08 2012 From: bill_beecher at flash.net (bill_beecher at flash.net) Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2012 11:41:08 -0500 Subject: [TR] Cleaning Fluid Message-ID: I think we have always brought the subject of lube & hydro fluifs to a pretty fine point on this list. But, what about cleaning, degreasing, fluids? As I begin a new project I am starting to have to fight the 50 years of buildup on this latest acquisition. I bought the ZEP Purple degreaser, this stuff seems to work real good, wear gloves and don't let it get into an open cut. My only complaint is that it has a slick film residue that really requires some clean water scrubbing after you have degreased your part. So what EPA compliant(or not) compound are you using? Pros & Cons? Inquiring minds need to know, Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby" '62 TR3B TCF/2549L www.triumphowners.com/1566 '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" "Hello, my name is Bill and I own an old British car. Now...What are the next 11 steps?" From dave at ranteer.com Fri Jun 1 12:40:16 2012 From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave) Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2012 13:40:16 -0500 Subject: [TR] Cleaning Fluid In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <053E054339224464B21C3B32C20D5052@ranteer.local> I have had great success with (depending upon the severity) carb cleaning fluid (buy from walmart, not flaps); add fine steel wool (0000) where necessary orange cleaning fluid from the dollar store a couple gallons of that cleaning solution (comes in a 1 gal can; has a little plastic parts holder in it) and for a more macro approach, buy a good power washer. -----Original Message----- From: bill_beecher at flash.net Sent: Friday, June 01, 2012 11:41 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Cleaning Fluid I think we have always brought the subject of lube & hydro fluifs to a pretty fine point on this list. But, what about cleaning, degreasing, fluids? As I begin a new project I am starting to have to fight the 50 years of buildup on this latest acquisition. I bought the ZEP Purple degreaser, this stuff seems to work real good, wear gloves and don't let it get into an open cut. My only complaint is that it has a slick film residue that really requires some clean water scrubbing after you have degreased your part. From Michael.Mack at redcross.org Fri Jun 1 12:58:47 2012 From: Michael.Mack at redcross.org (Mack, Michael (Rochester)) Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2012 18:58:47 +0000 Subject: [TR] Cleaning Fluid In-Reply-To: <053E054339224464B21C3B32C20D5052@ranteer.local> References: <053E054339224464B21C3B32C20D5052@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <6A6C6BB6A374144385E5E3CF3864B54511DF564C@BY2PRD0410MB377.namprd04.prod.outlook.com> I've had good success with Simple Green. I used it undiluted on the outside of my Spitfires tranny and cleaned up some vinyl GT6 seats. I bought a gallon pretty cheap at BJs wholesale club. Sam's Club probably has it also. Mike Mack 80 TR8 73 Stag 79 Spit 70 GT6 From bjzwissler at gmail.com Fri Jun 1 13:51:16 2012 From: bjzwissler at gmail.com (Benjamin Zwissler) Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2012 15:51:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] Silicon and Paint Message-ID: For what's its worth, my paint shop guy said clean up any silcon (Armor All, DOT5, whatever) before you do any sanding. He said sanding will push the silicon into the paint, plastic, etc and then no amount of cleaning will remove it (barring cleaning to bare metal). He recommended Dawn dishwashing detergent. I did that but it still wasn't sheeting water like I liked so I followed up with some water soluble parts degreaser from Sam's Club, then I used Dawn after that again. Worked great. I was painting a TR8 plastic dash that I know had been ArmorAll'd multiple times 'cuz I'd done it. Ben..... From edwd at ti.com Fri Jun 1 13:54:00 2012 From: edwd at ti.com (Fisher, Ed) Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2012 19:54:00 +0000 Subject: [TR] degreaser Message-ID: <67A276399E247245AC2050FC103C4E8A3E304868@DLEE01.ent.ti.com> The parts that I can remove are taken to the 'quarter car wash' and I blast the bejeebers out of them. Take coveralls and googles, there is a lot of blowback. Those that aren't readily transported I use a trusty old, worn out, rounded off flat screwdriver as a scraper. Once I have broken through the main layers I use a product from Kano Labs called Floway. It works pretty darned well, with some scrubbing of course.. Ed Fisher Dallas, Tx From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jun 1 16:32:22 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2012 15:32:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] brake fluid In-Reply-To: References: <4D4FABA15328FC42B1AA0DEE4673548C86F7FD34FC@DR-EX-04.datacenter.dataresolution.net> <1338485096.75416.YahooMailNeo@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <0be001cd3f60$88988680$99c99380$@rr.com> Message-ID: <002801cd4046$6a47a120$3ed6e360$@rr.com> > If "synthetic" fluids are not based on petroleum, then what are they > based on? Sorry, I mistyped. I meant to say not directly based on petroleum. Petroleum may have been the starting point for some of the chemicals involved, but there were multiple chemical reactions involved in producing the brake fluid, it wasn't simply distilled or cracked from petroleum (the way gasoline, diesel fuel, "conventional" motor oil, etc are). I did a bit of poking around on the net. According to one paper, one formula for conventional brake fluid is approx 53% glycol ether and 35% Boric acid ester; plus smaller amounts of polyglycol, bisphenol A, "antioxidant", and "anticorrosive". "Glycol ether" and "boric acid ester" both cover an entire class of chemicals, the paper did not give specifics. But apparently glycol ethers are commonly made by reacting ethylene oxide with anhydrous alcohol in the presence of a suitable catalyst. Boric acid esters are made by combining boric acid with either an alcohol or a phenol, then using various techniques to extract the desired ester from the result. One text said: "Some of the methods that have been used to separate methyl borate from the azeotrope are extraction with sulfuric acid and distillation of the enriched phase (18), treatment with calcium chloride or lithium chloride (19, 20), washing with a hydrocarbon and distillation (21), ..." (I didn't pay to read the remainder of the paper) Ethylene oxide is produced by oxidizing ethylene gas, which in turn is produced (by cracking) from petroleum (either oil or natural gas). So there is your link back to "dinosaur juice". Does that answer the question? -- Randall From dconnitt at fuse.net Fri Jun 1 19:50:32 2012 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2012 21:50:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] Silicon and Paint In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <9B2824F72CBB41E39983854016CF1956@DaveLaptop> I agree regarding using Dawn dishwashing soap to prep a car for paint. I had a problem with fisheye while painting my engine compartment. Not sure where it came from (the silicon), but it really screwed up the paint. I washed it with water and Dawn, rinsed really well and then sanded with 400 wet/dry to get down to a smooth finish. Then wiped it down with paint prep (wash on/wipe off method) with two lint free paper towels.Thankfully, that did the trick but what a pain.. Dave Connitt '67 TR4A IRS http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a From dconnitt at fuse.net Fri Jun 1 19:52:58 2012 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2012 21:52:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] Brake Fluid Message-ID: <971AB9DEF773456EB452E214A30CD080@DaveLaptop> Thanks to everyone that responded to my question. Since I bought both master cylinders from The Roadster Factory, I think I will just buy fluid from them the next time I order something else. Now, back to painting.. Thanks again everyone! Dave Connitt From dave at ranteer.com Fri Jun 1 21:26:50 2012 From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave) Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2012 22:26:50 -0500 Subject: [TR] brake fluid In-Reply-To: <002801cd4046$6a47a120$3ed6e360$@rr.com> References: <4D4FABA15328FC42B1AA0DEE4673548C86F7FD34FC@DR-EX-04.datacenter.dataresolution.net><1338485096.75416.YahooMailNeo@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com><0be001cd3f60$88988680$99c99380$@rr.com> <002801cd4046$6a47a120$3ed6e360$@rr.com> Message-ID: <018F5B721D654E5392612EF17DE74398@ranteer.local> but the question still remains (at least for me) what's the difference between dot 3 and dot 4? -----Original Message----- From: Randall Sent: Friday, June 01, 2012 5:32 PM To: 'Don Hiscock' Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] brake fluid > If "synthetic" fluids are not based on petroleum, then what are they > based on? Sorry, I mistyped. I meant to say not directly based on petroleum. Petroleum may have been the starting point for some of the chemicals involved, but there were multiple chemical reactions involved in producing the brake fluid, it wasn't simply distilled or cracked from petroleum (the way gasoline, diesel fuel, "conventional" motor oil, etc are). I did a bit of poking around on the net. According to one paper, one formula for conventional brake fluid is approx 53% glycol ether and 35% Boric acid ester; plus smaller amounts of polyglycol, bisphenol A, "antioxidant", and "anticorrosive". "Glycol ether" and "boric acid ester" both cover an entire class of chemicals, the paper did not give specifics. But apparently glycol ethers are commonly made by reacting ethylene oxide with anhydrous alcohol in the presence of a suitable catalyst. Boric acid esters are made by combining boric acid with either an alcohol or a phenol, then using various techniques to extract the desired ester from the result. One text said: "Some of the methods that have been used to separate methyl borate from the azeotrope are extraction with sulfuric acid and distillation of the enriched phase (18), treatment with calcium chloride or lithium chloride (19, 20), washing with a hydrocarbon and distillation (21), ..." (I didn't pay to read the remainder of the paper) Ethylene oxide is produced by oxidizing ethylene gas, which in turn is produced (by cracking) from petroleum (either oil or natural gas). So there is your link back to "dinosaur juice". Does that answer the question? From dave at ranteer.com Fri Jun 1 21:58:20 2012 From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave) Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2012 22:58:20 -0500 Subject: [TR] brake fluid In-Reply-To: <002801cd4046$6a47a120$3ed6e360$@rr.com> References: <4D4FABA15328FC42B1AA0DEE4673548C86F7FD34FC@DR-EX-04.datacenter.dataresolution.net><1338485096.75416.YahooMailNeo@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com><0be001cd3f60$88988680$99c99380$@rr.com> <002801cd4046$6a47a120$3ed6e360$@rr.com> Message-ID: <64B0E8834D95454C88A417332106FAB9@ranteer.local> here is a good description of the various brake fluids including 5.1 there are actually numerous discourses on the net about brake fluid, mostly in automotive boards http://www.tccoa.com/brake-fluid/ From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Fri Jun 1 23:05:03 2012 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2012 22:05:03 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] brake fluid In-Reply-To: <018F5B721D654E5392612EF17DE74398@ranteer.local> References: <4D4FABA15328FC42B1AA0DEE4673548C86F7FD34FC@DR-EX-04.datacenter.dataresolution.net><1338485096.75416.YahooMailNeo@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com><0be001cd3f60$88988680$99c99380$@rr.com> <002801cd4046$6a47a120$3ed6e360$@rr.com> <018F5B721D654E5392612EF17DE74398@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <1338613503.40089.YahooMailNeo@web120201.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> dont make me say DOT 1 ________________________________ From: Dave To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, June 1, 2012 8:26 PM Subject: Re: [TR] brake fluid but the question still remains (at least for me) what's the difference between dot 3 and dot 4? -----Original Message----- From: Randall Sent: Friday, June 01, 2012 5:32 PM To: 'Don Hiscock' Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] brake fluid > If "synthetic" fluids are not based on petroleum, then what are they > based on? Sorry, I mistyped. I meant to say not directly based on petroleum. Petroleum may have been the starting point for some of the chemicals involved, but there were multiple chemical reactions involved in producing the brake fluid, it wasn't simply distilled or cracked from petroleum (the way gasoline, diesel fuel, "conventional" motor oil, etc are). I did a bit of poking around on the net. According to one paper, one formula for conventional brake fluid is approx 53% glycol ether and 35% Boric acid ester; plus smaller amounts of polyglycol, bisphenol A, "antioxidant", and "anticorrosive". "Glycol ether" and "boric acid ester" both cover an entire class of chemicals, the paper did not give specifics. But apparently glycol ethers are commonly made by reacting ethylene oxide with anhydrous alcohol in the presence of a suitable catalyst. Boric acid esters are made by combining boric acid with either an alcohol or a phenol, then using various techniques to extract the desired ester from the result. One text said: "Some of the methods that have been used to separate methyl borate from the azeotrope are extraction with sulfuric acid and distillation of the enriched phase (18), treatment with calcium chloride or lithium chloride (19, 20), washing with a hydrocarbon and distillation (21), ..." (I didn't pay to read the remainder of the paper) Ethylene oxide is produced by oxidizing ethylene gas, which in turn is produced (by cracking) from petroleum (either oil or natural gas). So there is your link back to "dinosaur juice". Does that answer the question? ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From mark at bradakis.com Fri Jun 1 23:20:13 2012 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Fri, 01 Jun 2012 23:20:13 -0600 Subject: [TR] brake fluid In-Reply-To: <1338613503.40089.YahooMailNeo@web120201.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <4D4FABA15328FC42B1AA0DEE4673548C86F7FD34FC@DR-EX-04.datacenter.dataresolution.net><1338485096.75416.YahooMailNeo@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com><0be001cd3f60$88988680$99c99380$@rr.com> <002801cd4046$6a47a120$3ed6e360$@rr.com> <018F5B721D654E5392612EF17DE74398@ranteer.local> <1338613503.40089.YahooMailNeo@web120201.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4FC9A28D.5020801@bradakis.com> Frank Fisher wrote: > dont make me say DOT 1 > > Now that was funny! mjb. From spitlist at cox.net Sat Jun 2 00:11:54 2012 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2012 23:11:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] brake fluid In-Reply-To: <018F5B721D654E5392612EF17DE74398@ranteer.local> References: <4D4FABA15328FC42B1AA0DEE4673548C86F7FD34FC@DR-EX-04.datacenter.dataresolution.net><1338485096.75416.YahooMailNeo@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com><0be001cd3f60$88988680$99c99380$@rr.com><002801cd4046$6a47a120$3ed6e360$@rr.com> <018F5B721D654E5392612EF17DE74398@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <82349F58618647A3822B59ADB69C7C19@Vista> The relevant difference for Triumph owners is that the DOT 5 will not eat paint the way DOT 3 does. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Sent: Friday, June 01, 2012 8:27 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] brake fluid but the question still remains (at least for me) what's the difference between dot 3 and dot 4? -----Original Message----- From: Randall Sent: Friday, June 01, 2012 5:32 PM To: 'Don Hiscock' Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] brake fluid > If "synthetic" fluids are not based on petroleum, then what are they > based on? Sorry, I mistyped. I meant to say not directly based on petroleum. Petroleum may have been the starting point for some of the chemicals involved, but there were multiple chemical reactions involved in producing the brake fluid, it wasn't simply distilled or cracked from petroleum (the way gasoline, diesel fuel, "conventional" motor oil, etc are). I did a bit of poking around on the net. According to one paper, one formula for conventional brake fluid is approx 53% glycol ether and 35% Boric acid ester; plus smaller amounts of polyglycol, bisphenol A, "antioxidant", and "anticorrosive". "Glycol ether" and "boric acid ester" both cover an entire class of chemicals, the paper did not give specifics. But apparently glycol ethers are commonly made by reacting ethylene oxide with anhydrous alcohol in the presence of a suitable catalyst. Boric acid esters are made by combining boric acid with either an alcohol or a phenol, then using various techniques to extract the desired ester from the result. One text said: "Some of the methods that have been used to separate methyl borate from the azeotrope are extraction with sulfuric acid and distillation of the enriched phase (18), treatment with calcium chloride or lithium chloride (19, 20), washing with a hydrocarbon and distillation (21), ..." (I didn't pay to read the remainder of the paper) Ethylene oxide is produced by oxidizing ethylene gas, which in turn is produced (by cracking) from petroleum (either oil or natural gas). So there is your link back to "dinosaur juice". Does that answer the question? ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net From terryrs at comcast.net Sat Jun 2 06:19:30 2012 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 2 Jun 2012 12:19:30 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Oils and the Sump Drain Plug Magnet In-Reply-To: <9B2824F72CBB41E39983854016CF1956@DaveLaptop> Message-ID: <1229354405.1216685.1338639570161.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Am conducting a little experiment. Just finished engine rebuild on my TR3. Tried to start it, discovered I was a tooth off with the ignition, fixed that, and then it started right up. Ran smooth and strong with no leaks for 25 minutes before I shut it down. Made some water pump noise for a few minutes, then that quieted right out. Smokes more than I remember from last time, but I expect that will sort out as the rings set. The experiment is, I added a few wads of magnets to the outside of the sump, near the magnetic drain plug, to see if it doesn't capture more metal shavings common with rebuilds. I don't see why it wouldn't complement the already magnetic plug. But it raised the question. While I know the zinc in the Valvoline Racing Oil I'm running for break-in is not magnetic. ...But...are there other elements in the oil that would be sucked from the chemical composition by a strong magnetic field? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A TS 58667 New Hampshire From terryrs at comcast.net Sat Jun 2 06:24:57 2012 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 2 Jun 2012 12:24:57 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Valve Lash Adjustment Method In-Reply-To: <9B2824F72CBB41E39983854016CF1956@DaveLaptop> Message-ID: <374918717.1216826.1338639897498.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> The book I'm using describes adjusting valves when the intake and exhaust are at the point of balance, at which moment you can set both valve lashes to .010. I hadn't noticed that before. I had always set the valves on the exhaust when the intake was completely down, and vice versa. Question: Does it make any difference? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A TS 58667 New Hampshire From aljlthomson at charter.net Sat Jun 2 06:56:58 2012 From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson) Date: Sat, 2 Jun 2012 08:56:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] Valve Lash Adjustment Method In-Reply-To: <374918717.1216826.1338639897498.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <9B2824F72CBB41E39983854016CF1956@DaveLaptop> <374918717.1216826.1338639897498.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <000301cd40bf$332a16e0$997e44a0$@charter.net> In the big picture, you always want to adjust a valve when its lifter or tappet is completely "off the cam". It's true that an exhaust valve would be fully closed when the intake is fully open and vice-versa. Your system should be fine. Alternatively, you will never have a problem if you adjust valves for a given cylinder when it is at TDC - Compression. By using distributor rotor position as a guide, you only have to turn the engine over twice to adjust all valves in this manner. Some engine manufacturers, Deere as an example, will tell you all of the valves that can be adjusted when #1 cylinder is at TDC - Compression and will then direct you to turn the crankshaft one revolution and adjust all of the remaining valves. On small air-cooled engines that may be equipped with a compression release device via the exhaust valve, the manufacturers usually direct you to adjust the valves when the piston is approximately 0.5" below and after TDC - Compression. I'm not quite sure what the term "point-of-balance" refers to. Depending on your automotive dialect, I suppose it could refer to what some of us call "valve rock" at TDC - Exhaust or full clearance at TDC - Compression. Alex Thomson -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of terryrs at comcast.net Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2012 8:25 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Valve Lash Adjustment Method The book I'm using describes adjusting valves when the intake and exhaust are at the point of balance, at which moment you can set both valve lashes to .010. I hadn't noticed that before. I had always set the valves on the exhaust when the intake was completely down, and vice versa. Question: Does it make any difference? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A TS 58667 New Hampshire ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net From wbeech at flash.net Sat Jun 2 07:37:30 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Sat, 2 Jun 2012 08:37:30 -0500 Subject: [TR] brake fluid In-Reply-To: <82349F58618647A3822B59ADB69C7C19@Vista> References: <4D4FABA15328FC42B1AA0DEE4673548C86F7FD34FC@DR-EX-04.datacenter.dataresolution.net><1338485096.75416.YahooMailNeo@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com><0be001cd3f60$88988680$99c99380$@rr.com><002801cd4046$6a47a120$3ed6e360$@rr.com><018F5B721D654E5392612EF17DE74398@ranteer.local> <82349F58618647A3822B59ADB69C7C19@Vista> Message-ID: <72D5A0FE04904D04A0C0B2D14ABC7B08@bboffice> Yep, that's all it took for me to change. My paint guy said he would use DOT-3 for stripper if it weren't so expensive. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Curry Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2012 1:12 AM To: 'Dave'; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] brake fluid The relevant difference for Triumph owners is that the DOT 5 will not eat paint the way DOT 3 does. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Sent: Friday, June 01, 2012 8:27 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] brake fluid but the question still remains (at least for me) what's the difference between dot 3 and dot 4? -----Original Message----- From: Randall Sent: Friday, June 01, 2012 5:32 PM To: 'Don Hiscock' Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] brake fluid > If "synthetic" fluids are not based on petroleum, then what are they > based on? Sorry, I mistyped. I meant to say not directly based on petroleum. Petroleum may have been the starting point for some of the chemicals involved, but there were multiple chemical reactions involved in producing the brake fluid, it wasn't simply distilled or cracked from petroleum (the way gasoline, diesel fuel, "conventional" motor oil, etc are). I did a bit of poking around on the net. According to one paper, one formula for conventional brake fluid is approx 53% glycol ether and 35% Boric acid ester; plus smaller amounts of polyglycol, bisphenol A, "antioxidant", and "anticorrosive". "Glycol ether" and "boric acid ester" both cover an entire class of chemicals, the paper did not give specifics. But apparently glycol ethers are commonly made by reacting ethylene oxide with anhydrous alcohol in the presence of a suitable catalyst. Boric acid esters are made by combining boric acid with either an alcohol or a phenol, then using various techniques to extract the desired ester from the result. One text said: "Some of the methods that have been used to separate methyl borate from the azeotrope are extraction with sulfuric acid and distillation of the enriched phase (18), treatment with calcium chloride or lithium chloride (19, 20), washing with a hydrocarbon and distillation (21), ..." (I didn't pay to read the remainder of the paper) Ethylene oxide is produced by oxidizing ethylene gas, which in turn is produced (by cracking) from petroleum (either oil or natural gas). So there is your link back to "dinosaur juice". Does that answer the question? ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Sat Jun 2 07:49:59 2012 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sat, 2 Jun 2012 06:49:59 -0700 Subject: [TR] Oils and the Sump Drain Plug Magnet In-Reply-To: <1229354405.1216685.1338639570161.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <9B2824F72CBB41E39983854016CF1956@DaveLaptop> <1229354405.1216685.1338639570161.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Seems unlikely to me since iron & nickel are the only common elements I know of that are attracted to the magnets. I do modify those magnetic drain plugs commonly sold by breaking and digging out the fairly lame magnet that comes in them and JBWelding a rare-earth magnet in its place. Geo On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 5:19 AM, wrote: > ...While I know the zinc in the Valvoline Racing Oil I'm running for > break-in is not magnetic. ...But...are there other elements in the oil > that would be sucked from the chemical composition by a strong magnetic > field? From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Sat Jun 2 07:56:38 2012 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sat, 2 Jun 2012 06:56:38 -0700 Subject: [TR] Valve Lash Adjustment Method In-Reply-To: <000301cd40bf$332a16e0$997e44a0$@charter.net> References: <9B2824F72CBB41E39983854016CF1956@DaveLaptop> <374918717.1216826.1338639897498.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <000301cd40bf$332a16e0$997e44a0$@charter.net> Message-ID: I just use the chart in the Haynes manual (ignoring the typo) which is essentially the 'rule of 9' (i.e.looking at the 8 valves you note which ones are depressed and adjust the ones that are 9 minus their position). Other will have different ideas, but I always set the exhaust valves at .012 as too loose is a bit noisy but too tight is expensive. Geo From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Sat Jun 2 07:56:51 2012 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Sat, 2 Jun 2012 08:56:51 -0500 Subject: [TR] Brake Fluid In-Reply-To: <971AB9DEF773456EB452E214A30CD080@DaveLaptop> References: <971AB9DEF773456EB452E214A30CD080@DaveLaptop> Message-ID: What is this fluid stuff of which you speak?Is that the same as fluif? :) Rich White Central, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF###L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! From tedtsimx at bright.net Sat Jun 2 09:42:32 2012 From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher) Date: Sat, 02 Jun 2012 11:42:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR8 uprated front sway bar Message-ID: <4FCA3468.8050104@bright.net> Hello list members. We are just finishing another production run of our TR8 uprated front (anti-roll) sway bars. The bar is 7/8" diameter compared to 13/16" found on a stock TR8 or 3/4" for a stock TR7. For sway bar rate information and other useful suspension data please go to our website www.tsimportedautomotive.com and select "Product Info" (5th gear) As usual, the list is offered a "price" or incentives not found on our website. Sway bar price is $141.95. Choose from any of the 3 options listed below. Price is good till June 23rd. Thanks for your time and support. Ted #1. Free shipping for bar anywhere in lower 48 states. Canadian customers - if you have a US pick up address this works for you. #2. Urethane sway bar mount set - $29 is regular price for the mounts. #3. Free needle bearing front strut kit - $35 is regular price for the kit. -- Ted Schumacher tedtsimx at bright.net http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com 108 S. Jefferson St. Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877 Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.) Phone: 800.543.6648 (US& Canada) Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022 From thenicholls at verizon.net Sat Jun 2 11:31:48 2012 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Sat, 02 Jun 2012 12:31:48 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Valve Lash Adjustment Method Message-ID: <2506085.376596.1338658308806.JavaMail.root@vznit170128> I just got done doing this last weekend, I took a short ride today and came home to adjust idle, I feel like it is tapping more than it was before the adjustment. A member of my car club helped me, we set to .010. It is fine when driving, no issues there. If you hear the valves at idle, does this generally mean they are too loose or too tight? I would rather be towards the loose end based on this thread. Thanks in advance. Craig 1972 Triumph TR6 On 06/02/12, Geo Hahn wrote: I just use the chart in the Haynes manual (ignoring the typo) which is essentially the 'rule of 9' (i.e.looking at the 8 valves you note which ones are depressed and adjust the ones that are 9 minus their position). Other will have different ideas, but I always set the exhaust valves at .012 as too loose is a bit noisy but too tight is expensive. Geo ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net From fishplate at charter.net Sat Jun 2 12:08:44 2012 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff) Date: Sat, 02 Jun 2012 14:08:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] brake fluid In-Reply-To: <82349F58618647A3822B59ADB69C7C19@Vista> References: <4D4FABA15328FC42B1AA0DEE4673548C86F7FD34FC@DR-EX-04.datacenter.dataresolution.net><1338485096.75416.YahooMailNeo@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com><0be001cd3f60$88988680$99c99380$@rr.com><002801cd4046$6a47a120$3ed6e360$@rr.com> <018F5B721D654E5392612EF17DE74398@ranteer.local> <82349F58618647A3822B59ADB69C7C19@Vista> Message-ID: <4FCA56AC.9010703@charter.net> On 6/2/2012 2:11 AM, Joe Curry wrote: > The relevant difference for Triumph owners is that the DOT 5 will not eat > paint the way DOT 3 does. But it will pool water, contain air, and give a slightly softer pedal. That's why there are choices. I prefer the hard pedal and maximum stopping power, at the expense of periodic brake system maintenance. Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Sat Jun 2 12:20:53 2012 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sat, 2 Jun 2012 11:20:53 -0700 Subject: [TR] Brake Fluid? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On Wed, May 30, 2012 at 6:53 PM, Dave Connitt wrote: > Hi List, > I don't really want to start another thread on brake fluid... > I guess we all saw this coming but got on board anyway. Geo From mark at bradakis.com Sat Jun 2 20:03:18 2012 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sat, 02 Jun 2012 20:03:18 -0600 Subject: [TR] Archives Message-ID: <4FCAC5E6.9050201@bradakis.com> It was too hot this afternoon to be outside working. No progress in the Spit project. I did, however, make some progress on the Team.Net archives. If you check out the archives now you will see that there is quite a bit more recent stuff in there. Still not complete, but I am making progress. And while there, don't be bashful about clicking on the ads, it puts a few cents per click in the Team.Net coffers! mjb. From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Sun Jun 3 10:20:21 2012 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2012 09:20:21 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Fw: moss stainless dual exhaust tr6 In-Reply-To: <1338695099.47726.YahooMailNeo@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <4D4FABA15328FC42B1AA0DEE4673548C86F7FD34FC@DR-EX-04.datacenter.dataresolution.net><1338485096.75416.YahooMailNeo@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com><0be001cd3f60$88988680$99c99380$@rr.com> <002801cd4046$6a47a120$3ed6e360$@rr.com> <018F5B721D654E5392612EF17DE74398@ranteer.local> <1338613503.40089.YahooMailNeo@web120201.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <4FC9A28D.5020801@bradakis.com> <1338695099.47726.YahooMailNeo@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1338740421.34797.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> helped a friend install his nice new stainless sports exhaust on his 1973 TR6. moss #860-270 any one else fitted one of these? how did it fit? what problems did you have and how did you overcome? we had a heck of a time getting them to come close and now they hang really low just before the back suspension. like 3" off the ground. we have the parts marked right on the right. triple checked thanks Frank From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Jun 3 10:58:04 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2012 12:58:04 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Fw: moss stainless dual exhaust tr6 Message-ID: <1b04e.65db1f08.3cfcf19c@cs.com> I just installed one myself back in March. I found the fit was OK but a bit fiddly. I do have some rubbing but you can hardly hear it over the exhaust note. Yes, they do hang low in the back but I have some rather tall springs on my car so I clear most obsticles. If you are running a lowered suspension I'd recommend you reconsider. Dave In a message dated 6/3/2012 11:27:33 AM Central Daylight Time, yellowtr3 at yahoo.com writes: > helped a friend install his nice new stainless sports exhaust on his > 1973 TR6. moss #860-270 > > any one else fitted one of these? > how did it fit? > what problems did you have and how did you overcome? > > we had a heck of a time > getting them to come close and now they hang really low just before the > back > suspension. like 3" off the ground. > > we have the parts marked right on the > right. triple checked From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Sun Jun 3 14:08:14 2012 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2012 16:08:14 -0400 Subject: [TR] Valve Lash Adjustment Method In-Reply-To: <2506085.376596.1338658308806.JavaMail.root@vznit170128> References: <2506085.376596.1338658308806.JavaMail.root@vznit170128> Message-ID: if it's too quiet, it's too tight! I adjust mine at 12 for intake and 14 for exhaust - as I have a small bit of cam in there. On Sat, Jun 2, 2012 at 1:31 PM, wrote: > I just got done doing this last weekend, I took a short ride today and > came home to adjust idle, I feel like it is tapping more than it was before > the adjustment. > > > A member of my car club helped me, we set to .010. It is fine when > driving, no issues there. > > If you hear the valves at idle, does this generally mean they are too > loose or too tight? I would rather be towards the loose end based on this > thread. > > Thanks in advance. > > Craig > 1972 Triumph TR6 > > > On 06/02/12, Geo Hahn wrote: > > I just use the chart in the Haynes manual (ignoring the typo) which is > essentially the 'rule of 9' (i.e.looking at the 8 valves you note which > ones are depressed and adjust the ones that are 9 minus their position). > > Other will have different ideas, but I always set the exhaust valves at > .012 as too loose is a bit noisy but too tight is expensive. > > Geo > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ccsimonsen at gmail.com From dave at ranteer.com Sun Jun 3 20:06:30 2012 From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave) Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2012 21:06:30 -0500 Subject: [TR] SU carb fuel bowl Message-ID: <0E813E07C3E6458F811B825F77A75CDB@ranteer.local> on each of the fuel bowls on the su carbs on my 63 TR4 there is a little vent tube, which when it arrived had little lengths of hose attached. seems rather superfluous to me. assuming Ibm not concerned about it looking correct, do I need to put an inch or two of hose back on or should I just leave it off. what is the point of the short hose? before picture: http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr4/DSCN6284.JPG after picture: http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr4/DSCN6774.JPG and yes, I do know that the fuel line has to connect from one to the other. Ibm talking about the other, little vent tube. From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jun 3 20:27:22 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2012 19:27:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] SU carb fuel bowl In-Reply-To: <0E813E07C3E6458F811B825F77A75CDB@ranteer.local> References: <0E813E07C3E6458F811B825F77A75CDB@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <066d01cd41f9$9314f9e0$0601a8c0@randall> > what is the point of the short hose? In the original configuration, there was also a short curved length of pipe, with the end stuck into the mesh of the air filters. I believe the idea was to at least partially block dirt from getting into the bowl vents. It's certainly not critical, the engine will run fine with the tubes just left off. On my engine though, I have much longer tubes that hang down towards the ground; on the theory that since there is no net airflow, the long tubes will help prevent dirt from getting in. Likely that is pure fantasy, but they don't seem to hurt anything so ... -- Randall From wbeech at flash.net Sun Jun 3 21:31:47 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2012 22:31:47 -0500 Subject: [TR] SU carb fuel bowl In-Reply-To: <0E813E07C3E6458F811B825F77A75CDB@ranteer.local> References: <0E813E07C3E6458F811B825F77A75CDB@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <9DBA38FD27C246B487ED7AB8C280AAB4@bboffice> The vent is also the overflow in the incidence of a stuck float valve. I have 3 sets of SU H6 for the TR3s and they all have the short piece of fuel line followed buy a short copper line bent at 90 degrees pointing down, presumably to route any spillage. I recently worked on a Morgan with the same SU carbs and there were rubber lines run down to just below the frame, much like the radiator overflow, this seems to make more sense to me. So I would keep the length of hose on the vent tubes so they can provide proper routing of excess petrol but also to prevent airborne contaminants from entering the float bowl through the vents, and consider a longer hose as extra security from fire. Hope this helps, Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2012 9:07 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] SU carb fuel bowl on each of the fuel bowls on the su carbs on my 63 TR4 there is a little vent tube, which when it arrived had little lengths of hose attached. seems rather superfluous to me. assuming Ibm not concerned about it looking correct, do I need to put an inch or two of hose back on or should I just leave it off. what is the point of the short hose? before picture: http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr4/DSCN6284.JPG after picture: http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr4/DSCN6774.JPG and yes, I do know that the fuel line has to connect from one to the other. Ibm talking about the other, little vent tube. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From mark at bradakis.com Mon Jun 4 01:50:12 2012 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 04 Jun 2012 01:50:12 -0600 Subject: [TR] SU carb fuel bowl In-Reply-To: <9DBA38FD27C246B487ED7AB8C280AAB4@bboffice> References: <0E813E07C3E6458F811B825F77A75CDB@ranteer.local> <9DBA38FD27C246B487ED7AB8C280AAB4@bboffice> Message-ID: <4FCC68B4.8010206@bradakis.com> A while back at Bailey's we had an MGB-GT ( sorry ) towed in from a tire place or some such "specialist" with serious carb problems. The techs down there had put the fuel lines on the overflow vents, and couldn't figure out why the car wouldn't run right and why there was so much gas dripping everywhere. mjb. From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Mon Jun 4 05:13:54 2012 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2012 04:13:54 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 stalling at idle Message-ID: <1338808434.52438.YahooMailNeo@web39402.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hi List! Would "Dave ?", who started this thread back on 5-26-12 please contact me. TIA, -Cosmo Kramer From wbeech at flash.net Mon Jun 4 08:18:36 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2012 09:18:36 -0500 Subject: [TR] Electric Fuel Pump Repair Message-ID: I have a non-working fuel pump that I cannot seem to readily see a reason for the failure. It is an Auto Pump brand model AP104 made in New Zealand. I don't find it on a Google search and now wonder if it is just a cheap throw-away pump and not worth the time & trouble to re-build. Any advice here would be helpful as I don't have much experience with e-pumps. Thanks, Bill From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Mon Jun 4 09:07:13 2012 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2012 08:07:13 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] SU carb fuel bowl In-Reply-To: <9DBA38FD27C246B487ED7AB8C280AAB4@bboffice> References: <0E813E07C3E6458F811B825F77A75CDB@ranteer.local> <9DBA38FD27C246B487ED7AB8C280AAB4@bboffice> Message-ID: <1338822433.61840.YahooMailNeo@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> i would route the tube as Randall suggested or route them into your air filter as originally fitted. in the event your float bowl overflows the gas will drip/run onto your very hot exhaust manifold with dire consequence. Frank From: "wbeech at flash.net" To: 'Dave' ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, June 3, 2012 8:31 PM Subject: Re: [TR] SU carb fuel bowl The vent is also the overflow in the incidence of a stuck float valve. I have 3 sets of SU H6 for the TR3s and they all have the short piece of fuel line followed buy a short copper line bent at 90 degrees pointing down, presumably to route any spillage. I recently worked on a Morgan with the same SU carbs and there were rubber lines run down to just below the frame, much like the radiator overflow, this seems to make more sense to me. So I would keep the length of hose on the vent tubes so they can provide proper routing of excess petrol but also to prevent airborne contaminants from entering the float bowl through the vents, and consider a longer hose as extra security from fire. Hope this helps, Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2012 9:07 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] SU carb fuel bowl on each of the fuel bowls on the su carbs on my 63 TR4 there is a little vent tube, which when it arrived had little lengths of hose attached. seems rather superfluous to me. assuming Ibm not concerned about it looking correct, do I need to put an inch or two of hose back on or should I just leave it off. what is the point of the short hose? before picture: http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr4/DSCN6284.JPG after picture: http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr4/DSCN6774.JPG and yes, I do know that the fuel line has to connect from one to the other. Ibm talking about the other, little vent tube. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Mon Jun 4 09:10:25 2012 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2012 08:10:25 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Fw: moss stainless dual exhaust tr6 In-Reply-To: <1b04e.65db1f08.3cfcf19c@cs.com> References: <1b04e.65db1f08.3cfcf19c@cs.com> Message-ID: <1338822625.74680.YahooMailNeo@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> upon further inspection we found the solution to the low hanging tr6 exhaust. seems to have been operator error!!! now that we have it fitted properly i have to say its a nice piece of kit. looks good and sounds better. Frank From: "Dave1massey at cs.com" To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, June 3, 2012 9:58 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Fw: moss stainless dual exhaust tr6 I just installed one myself back in March. I found the fit was OK but a bit fiddly. I do have some rubbing but you can hardly hear it over the exhaust note. Yes, they do hang low in the back but I have some rather tall springs on my car so I clear most obsticles. If you are running a lowered suspension I'd recommend you reconsider. Dave In a message dated 6/3/2012 11:27:33 AM Central Daylight Time, yellowtr3 at yahoo.com writes: > helped a friend install his nice new stainless sports exhaust on his > 1973 TR6. moss #860-270 > > any one else fitted one of these? > how did it fit? > what problems did you have and how did you overcome? > > we had a heck of a time > getting them to come close and now they hang really low just before the > back > suspension. like 3" off the ground. > > we have the parts marked right on the > right. triple checked ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From auprichard at uprichard.net Mon Jun 4 11:04:54 2012 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2012 13:04:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] SU carb fuel bowl In-Reply-To: <1338822433.61840.YahooMailNeo@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <0E813E07C3E6458F811B825F77A75CDB@ranteer.local><9DBA38FD27C246B487ED7AB8C280AAB4@bboffice> <1338822433.61840.YahooMailNeo@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8AA7B87B84BF465DBA4CF6E91B6380A1@DCH6RFC1> "the gas will drip/run onto your very hot exhaust manifold with dire consequence" raises an interesting question. Having just last week cremated a lawnmower/tractor which had a leaking valve cover gasket, I know that oil will spontaneously ignite when hot. But I thought that the same was not true for gas. Everyone shudders at the thought of gas dripping on a manifold, but my understanding was that, unless there was a source of ignition, the gas would not burn. Not that gas dripping on a manifold is a good idea..... Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Fisher Sent: Monday, June 04, 2012 11:07 AM To: wbeech at flash.net; 'Dave'; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] SU carb fuel bowl i would route the tube as Randall suggested or route them into your air filter as originally fitted. in the event your float bowl overflows the gas will drip/run onto your very hot exhaust manifold with dire consequence. Frank From: "wbeech at flash.net" To: 'Dave' ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, June 3, 2012 8:31 PM Subject: Re: [TR] SU carb fuel bowl The vent is also the overflow in the incidence of a stuck float valve. I have 3 sets of SU H6 for the TR3s and they all have the short piece of fuel line followed buy a short copper line bent at 90 degrees pointing down, presumably to route any spillage. I recently worked on a Morgan with the same SU carbs and there were rubber lines run down to just below the frame, much like the radiator overflow, this seems to make more sense to me. So I would keep the length of hose on the vent tubes so they can provide proper routing of excess petrol but also to prevent airborne contaminants from entering the float bowl through the vents, and consider a longer hose as extra security from fire. Hope this helps, Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2012 9:07 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] SU carb fuel bowl on each of the fuel bowls on the su carbs on my 63 TR4 there is a little vent tube, which when it arrived had little lengths of hose attached. seems rather superfluous to me. assuming Ibm not concerned about it looking correct, do I need to put an inch or two of hose back on or should I just leave it off. what is the point of the short hose? before picture: http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr4/DSCN6284.JPG after picture: http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr4/DSCN6774.JPG and yes, I do know that the fuel line has to connect from one to the other. Ibm talking about the other, little vent tube. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Mon Jun 4 11:08:59 2012 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2012 10:08:59 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] SU carb fuel bowl In-Reply-To: <8AA7B87B84BF465DBA4CF6E91B6380A1@DCH6RFC1> References: <0E813E07C3E6458F811B825F77A75CDB@ranteer.local><9DBA38FD27C246B487ED7AB8C280AAB4@bboffice> <1338822433.61840.YahooMailNeo@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <8AA7B87B84BF465DBA4CF6E91B6380A1@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: <1338829739.12505.YahooMailNeo@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> while taking my VW golf to work i had a fuel line leak that dripped onto the rear muffler. when i pulled off the freeway to figure out why i was loosing power i noticed flames licking up outside the window. you cant imagine how fast a fat old man can exit a VW golf. Frank From: Andrew Uprichard To: 'Frank Fisher' ; wbeech at flash.net; 'Dave' ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, June 4, 2012 10:04 AM Subject: RE: [TR] SU carb fuel bowl "the gas will drip/run onto your very hot exhaust manifold with dire consequence" raises an interesting question. Having just last week cremated a lawnmower/tractor which had a leaking valve cover gasket, I know that oil will spontaneously ignite when hot. But I thought that the same was not true for gas. Everyone shudders at the thought of gas dripping on a manifold, but my understanding was that, unless there was a source of ignition, the gas would not burn. Not that gas dripping on a manifold is a good idea..... Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Fisher Sent: Monday, June 04, 2012 11:07 AM To: wbeech at flash.net; 'Dave'; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] SU carb fuel bowl i would route the tube as Randall suggested or route them into your air filter as originally fitted. in the event your float bowl overflows the gas will drip/run onto your very hot exhaust manifold with dire consequence. Frank From: "wbeech at flash.net" To: 'Dave' ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, June 3, 2012 8:31 PM Subject: Re: [TR] SU carb fuel bowl The vent is also the overflow in the incidence of a stuck float valve. I have 3 sets of SU H6 for the TR3s and they all have the short piece of fuel line followed buy a short copper line bent at 90 degrees pointing down, presumably to route any spillage. I recently worked on a Morgan with the same SU carbs and there were rubber lines run down to just below the frame, much like the radiator overflow, this seems to make more sense to me. So I would keep the length of hose on the vent tubes so they can provide proper routing of excess petrol but also to prevent airborne contaminants from entering the float bowl through the vents, and consider a longer hose as extra security from fire. Hope this helps, Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2012 9:07 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] SU carb fuel bowl on each of the fuel bowls on the su carbs on my 63 TR4 there is a little vent tube, which when it arrived had little lengths of hose attached. seems rather superfluous to me. assuming Ibm not concerned about it looking correct, do I need to put an inch or two of hose back on or should I just leave it off. what is the point of the short hose? before picture: http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr4/DSCN6284.JPG after picture: http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr4/DSCN6774.JPG and yes, I do know that the fuel line has to connect from one to the other. Ibm talking about the other, little vent tube. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From brad.kahler at 141.com Mon Jun 4 11:46:13 2012 From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2012 13:46:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 Tires In-Reply-To: <8CF09832DABD66D-738-3D83F@Webmail-d118.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CF09832DABD66D-738-3D83F@Webmail-d118.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: George, 185/70R15 looks like a good fit, to bad the price per tire is so much more (close to $100 each) than 165 series tires. I've also noticed there are some 195 series tires available at less than $100 per tire. I wonder how those would work. Thanks, Brad On Sat, May 26, 2012 at 2:19 PM, George Haynes wrote: > 185/70R15 From brad.kahler at 141.com Mon Jun 4 11:48:47 2012 From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2012 13:48:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] Need new tires for TR4 In-Reply-To: <01fd01cd3adf$672a5d00$0601a8c0@randall> References: <01fd01cd3adf$672a5d00$0601a8c0@randall> Message-ID: Randall, I'd really like to stay with a stock diameter. I really dislike speedometers that read to high or two low :) I suppose I could look into ratio converters for the speedometer if need be. That's just one more complexity I'd just as soon do without however. Thanks! brad On Fri, May 25, 2012 at 9:32 PM, Randall wrote: > I don't use them any more, but I have used 185/65-15 on both 4.5" and 5.5" > rims. They are a bit shorter than stock, make your speedo read about 5% > high (63 mph when you are only doing 60 mph); but there is a wide selection > of fairly high performance tires available in that size, many of them for a > very reasonable price. For example, TireRack has Bridgestone Potenza G019 > for $77/ea in that size, which they consider a "high performance > all-season" > tire. > > -- Randall From allenhess at mgcarclub.com Mon Jun 4 11:51:41 2012 From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess) Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2012 13:51:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] SU carb fuel bowl In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0FC55F68-CB79-45E6-B39A-AFAFDCA76411@mgcarclub.com> >> what is the point of the short hose? > > In the original configuration, there was also a short curved length > of pipe, > with the end stuck into the mesh of the air filters. In addition to what's been said, I believe you are missing the short pipes because you have TR4A air filters and they won't fit with the pipes on place. Allen From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jun 4 11:52:49 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2012 10:52:49 -0700 Subject: [TR] SU carb fuel bowl In-Reply-To: <8AA7B87B84BF465DBA4CF6E91B6380A1@DCH6RFC1> References: <0E813E07C3E6458F811B825F77A75CDB@ranteer.local><9DBA38FD27C246B487ED7AB8C280AAB4@bboffice> <1338822433.61840.YahooMailNeo@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <8AA7B87B84BF465DBA4CF6E91B6380A1@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: <02f101cd427a$dc0179e0$94046da0$@rr.com> > Everyone shudders at the thought of gas dripping on a > manifold, but my understanding was that, unless there was a source of > ignition, the gas would not burn. I suspect it depends on the particulars. I have seen gas dripping onto a manifold that was literally glowing red (it turned dark after every drop then got red again) and it did not ignite. I have also seen people put out a burning cigarette in liquid gasoline (as a stunt of course). My guess is that the distinction is because gasoline will only ignite when mixed with air in a fairly specific ratio and simultaneously heated above 230C. With a clean, bare manifold, the gasoline evaporates and thins out before it gets hot enough to burn. But if there is any kind of material present to absorb the gasoline and act like a wick, it will burn. BTW, the trick to putting out a cigarette in gasoline is to do it fast, tip first, so the fire is quenched before the gasoline penetrates the cigarette. If you move too slow or let it go sideways, you'll get burned. Likely you also need a well-ventilated area (so there isn't a layer of flammable vapor lying on top). Don't try this at home -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jun 4 11:58:51 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2012 10:58:51 -0700 Subject: [TR] Electric Fuel Pump Repair In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <02f501cd427b$b32528e0$196f7aa0$@rr.com> > I don't find it on a Google search and now wonder if it is just a cheap > throw-away pump and not worth the time & trouble to re-build. If this is for carbs, a brand new Facet pump is under $40 from Aircraft Spruce. Be sure to get the model and pressure rating you need; they stock more pumps than are shown on their web site. -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jun 4 12:02:50 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2012 11:02:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] Need new tires for TR4 In-Reply-To: References: <01fd01cd3adf$672a5d00$0601a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <02f601cd427c$41fc3cc0$c5f4b640$@rr.com> > I'd really like to stay with a stock diameter. I really dislike > speedometers that read to high or two low :) No worries, Brad, that was why I included the information. I'm not sure I've ever owned a Triumph where the speedometer actually read within 5% of truth, though. I've heard they read high even from the factory. -- Randall From tr3a58 at verizon.net Mon Jun 4 12:04:34 2012 From: tr3a58 at verizon.net (Dean Tetterton) Date: Mon, 04 Jun 2012 14:04:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] SU carb fuel bowl In-Reply-To: <02f101cd427a$dc0179e0$94046da0$@rr.com> References: <0E813E07C3E6458F811B825F77A75CDB@ranteer.local><9DBA38FD27C246B487ED7AB8C280AAB4@bboffice> <1338822433.61840.YahooMailNeo@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <8AA7B87B84BF465DBA4CF6E91B6380A1@DCH6RFC1> <02f101cd427a$dc0179e0$94046da0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <711524D8-A01E-403B-A5AF-81C059DDD95F@verizon.net> The rubber hose with the bent tube should go into the air cleaner. The only reason was to vent the float chamber fumes into the air stream going into the engine. Triumph didn't plan on the float needle sticking or float sinking. remember these were new cars and that just didn't happen. They didn't think people would be driving them when they got this old. Just my opinion.... Dean From anabil007 at comcast.net Mon Jun 4 12:07:58 2012 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh) Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2012 11:07:58 -0700 Subject: [TR] Need new tires for TR4 In-Reply-To: References: <01fd01cd3adf$672a5d00$0601a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <15B772F1-A349-4A52-98DB-F87E6F45F243@comcast.net> After retiring Rosey (1970 TR6) from the SCCA Judged Concours events (her 1998 restoration was beginning to show her age) We decided that instead of a "show car", she should just be a "car", the 185/15 Michelin Redlines had a 1998 date code and were hard as rocks. Tire Rack suggested 205-70/15s and we bought a set of Michelin Hydroedge, pricey but they fit nice, were tubeless and overall diameter was close enough that the speedo was still accurate. Turns per mile were about the same, but the ride was 200% better, and they stick like glue, even in the rain. You might want to check them out  remember you get what you pay for. On Jun 4, 2012, at 10:48 AM, Brad Kahler wrote: > Randall, > > I'd really like to stay with a stock diameter. I really dislike > speedometers that read to high or two low :) > > I suppose I could look into ratio converters for the speedometer if need > be. That's just one more complexity I'd just as soon do without however. > > Thanks! > > brad > Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA anabil007 at comcast.net From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Jun 4 12:10:04 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2012 14:10:04 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] SU carb fuel bowl Message-ID: <3b020.114772a2.3cfe53fc@cs.com> I've heard the same thing. Gasoline will flash into vapor well below its self-ignition point. Oil, on the other hand, will stay in contact with the manifold and smolder. But maybe just urban myths. Dave In a message dated 6/4/2012 12:05:09 PM Central Daylight Time, auprichard at uprichard.net writes: > "the gas will drip/run onto your very hot exhaust manifold with dire > consequence" raises an interesting question. Having just last week > cremated > a lawnmower/tractor which had a leaking valve cover gasket, I know that > oil > will spontaneously ignite when hot. But I thought that the same was not > true for gas. Everyone shudders at the thought of gas dripping on a > manifold, but my understanding was that, unless there was a source of > ignition, the gas would not burn. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jun 4 12:26:19 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2012 11:26:19 -0700 Subject: [TR] Need new tires for TR4 In-Reply-To: <15B772F1-A349-4A52-98DB-F87E6F45F243@comcast.net> References: <01fd01cd3adf$672a5d00$0601a8c0@randall> <15B772F1-A349-4A52-98DB-F87E6F45F243@comcast.net> Message-ID: <02fa01cd427f$89e18330$9da48990$@rr.com> > You might want to check them out remember you get what you pay for. Also remember that a TR3 has smaller wheel wells than a TR6. I run 205/55 tires myself, but there have been some compromises along the way. I don't believe 205/70 would fit on my car without rubbing fairly heavily inside the rear fenders on bumps and/or hard turns. -- Randall From anabil007 at comcast.net Mon Jun 4 12:29:32 2012 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh) Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2012 11:29:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] SU carb fuel bowl In-Reply-To: <3b020.114772a2.3cfe53fc@cs.com> References: <3b020.114772a2.3cfe53fc@cs.com> Message-ID: <61843096-FF4D-455A-88C9-5CFF45558ED4@comcast.net> When we bought Rosey (1970 TR6) we were surprised to find that the gas tank leaked from the top  we were in the midwest and were coming home to California, we found that if we filled up, got back on the highway the stink would go away after about 25 miles, one gallon??. I sat there wondering of the gas leaking on the muffler would explode into a ball of flame, but decided not to mention it for fear of scaring AnnaBelle. It turned out she was sitting beside me thinking the same about me. We managed to get home with no explosion and fixed the leak (from the fuel sensor plate), I know the muffler is not as hot as a manifold, but it seems to prove that some ignition is required for flames  BTW Shell V10, was the "stinkest" we found On Jun 4, 2012, at 11:10 AM, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > I've heard the same thing. Gasoline will flash into vapor well below its > self-ignition point. Oil, on the other hand, will stay in contact with the > manifold and smolder. > > But maybe just urban myths. > > Dave > > In a message dated 6/4/2012 12:05:09 PM Central Daylight Time, > auprichard at uprichard.net writes: >> "the gas will drip/run onto your very hot exhaust manifold with dire >> consequence" raises an interesting question. Having just last week >> cremated >> a lawnmower/tractor which had a leaking valve cover gasket, I know that >> oil >> will spontaneously ignite when hot. But I thought that the same was not >> true for gas. Everyone shudders at the thought of gas dripping on a >> manifold, but my understanding was that, unless there was a source of >> ignition, the gas would not burn. "Life is too short to drive boring cars Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA anabil007 at comcast.net From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Mon Jun 4 14:10:59 2012 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2012 13:10:59 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] SU carb fuel bowl In-Reply-To: <3b020.114772a2.3cfe53fc@cs.com> References: <3b020.114772a2.3cfe53fc@cs.com> Message-ID: <1338840659.90116.YahooMailNeo@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> i think all the points are valid. flash points/vapors etc. but i find most of those are tests and observations in controlled environments. i don't care to try those in the uncontrolled environment of my precious. after my uncontrolled experiment with my VW i recommend venting off to some place with a little more safety margin. just my thoughts Frank From levilevi at comcast.net Mon Jun 4 14:23:05 2012 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2012 14:23:05 -0600 Subject: [TR] SU carb fuel bowl In-Reply-To: <1338840659.90116.YahooMailNeo@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <3b020.114772a2.3cfe53fc@cs.com> <1338840659.90116.YahooMailNeo@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <7CC4C677-6B4D-474E-ACFB-924EA6015ABA@comcast.net> Could switch to ZS carbs. They don't vent they just weep a little in various places. Best preventative thing is to keep the fuel chambers clean of stuff that will cause fuel valves to stick and then flood. One of my pre- trip tasks especially for long trips is to drop the bottom of the fuel chambers and clean them out. The carbs stay on but I gently blow some air around the underside to get as much dirt as possible out of the fuel system. I have two fuel filters (one before the fuel pump and one before the carbs but I still find something in the fuel chamber bottoms every time I pour the contents into a nice white bowl. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Jun 4, 2012, at 2:10 PM, Frank Fisher wrote: > i think all the points are valid. flash points/vapors etc. > but i find most of those are tests and observations in controlled > environments. > i don't care to try those in the uncontrolled environment of my > precious. > after my uncontrolled experiment with my VW i recommend venting off > to some place with a little more safety margin. > just my thoughts > Frank > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net From trglory at verizon.net Mon Jun 4 14:34:19 2012 From: trglory at verizon.net (Joseph Laurito) Date: Mon, 04 Jun 2012 16:34:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] Need new tires for TR4 In-Reply-To: References: <01fd01cd3adf$672a5d00$0601a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <006d01cd4291$6bccafc0$43660f40$@net> I think 185/65-15 may be a good fit. Tire diameter is very close so speedo should be OK. And they are available last time I looked. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brad Kahler Sent: Monday, June 04, 2012 1:49 PM To: Randall Cc: Triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] Need new tires for TR4 Randall, I'd really like to stay with a stock diameter. I really dislike speedometers that read to high or two low :) I suppose I could look into ratio converters for the speedometer if need be. That's just one more complexity I'd just as soon do without however. Thanks! brad From grandfatherjim at gmail.com Mon Jun 4 15:12:23 2012 From: grandfatherjim at gmail.com (Jim Wallace) Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2012 17:12:23 -0400 Subject: [TR] Valve Lash Adjustment Method Message-ID: Terry, Just went through this on a different vehicle. In my case setting the valves at the specified 0.006" gap with the other valve for that cylinder open, left me with NO gap when the piston was at TDC on the compression stroke, where I should have been setting it. Bearings worn weirdly? Sides of cam worn weirdly? I'm still pondering but did go back and set them correctly because you don't want to end up with valves partially open when they should have a gap, so better to err on the side of looser at the side of the cam and correct at the bottom. Jim ================ The book I'm using describes adjusting valves when the intake and exhaust are at the point of balance, at which moment you can set both valve lashes to .010. I hadn't noticed that before. I had always set the valves on the exhaust when the intake was completely down, and vice versa. Question: Does it make any difference? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A TS 58667 New Hampshire From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jun 4 16:36:48 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2012 15:36:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] Valve Lash Adjustment Method In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000d01cd42a2$880de6c0$9829b440$@rr.com> > In my case setting the > valves at the specified 0.006" gap with the other valve for that cylinder > open, That doesn't work. You have to use the "rule of 9" (for a 4-cylinder 4 stroke), meaning that with valve #8 fully open, you adjust valve #1 (8+1=9). Even that doesn't always work for every engine (but it does for TR2-4). > The book I'm using describes adjusting valves when the intake and > exhaust > are at the point of balance, at which moment you can set both valve > lashes > to .010. Just for clarity, the procedure is to turn the engine until one cylinder is "at the point of balance" (meaning both valves are open) and then adjust the valves on the _opposite_ cylinder. For example, on a 4-cylinder TR, turn so #1 has both open, then adjust #4. Then #3 with both open, adjust #2. Then #4 both open, adjust #1. And finally, both open on #2, adjust #3. > Question: Does it make any difference? In theory, no. But the camshaft was bent or ground off-center, you might find some small difference. I've checked several of my own engines and setting with one method always produces measurements within .001" using the other method. Personally, I prefer the second method (setting both valves with the piston for that cylinder at TDC between compression and power strokes). -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jun 4 16:40:30 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2012 15:40:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] SU carb fuel bowl In-Reply-To: <7CC4C677-6B4D-474E-ACFB-924EA6015ABA@comcast.net> References: <3b020.114772a2.3cfe53fc@cs.com> <1338840659.90116.YahooMailNeo@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <7CC4C677-6B4D-474E-ACFB-924EA6015ABA@comcast.net> Message-ID: <000e01cd42a3$0bcab970$23602c50$@rr.com> > Could switch to ZS carbs. They don't vent they just weep a little in > various places. Is that is a joke? All carbs have float bowl vents, the ZS carbs are no exception. The emissions versions actually have two bowl vents per carb, one through the face (into the air filter) and the other through a port on the side (that gets plumbed to the carbon canister). -- Randall From dave at ranteer.com Mon Jun 4 17:12:39 2012 From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave) Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2012 18:12:39 -0500 Subject: [TR] SU carb fuel bowl In-Reply-To: <1338840659.90116.YahooMailNeo@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <3b020.114772a2.3cfe53fc@cs.com> <1338840659.90116.YahooMailNeo@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: in my uncontrolled experiment there was a little spilled gas on the frame near the exhaust. there was no open flame, just heat. fortunately my fire extinguisher works very well. From levilevi at comcast.net Mon Jun 4 22:19:13 2012 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2012 22:19:13 -0600 Subject: [TR] SU carb fuel bowl In-Reply-To: <000e01cd42a3$0bcab970$23602c50$@rr.com> References: <3b020.114772a2.3cfe53fc@cs.com> <1338840659.90116.YahooMailNeo@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <7CC4C677-6B4D-474E-ACFB-924EA6015ABA@comcast.net> <000e01cd42a3$0bcab970$23602c50$@rr.com> Message-ID: Not a joke just an incomplete statement. I should have said ZS carbs don't have a designed float chamber vent that ends up with liquid gas dripping directly onto the exhaust the way that SU carbs apparently do. Since the thread was venting liquid gas onto the exhaust I was thinking that a ZS carb doesn't vent liquid gas onto the exhaust directly. But I didn't really write that. They will leak liquid gas if the float valves stick but it comes out in unpredictable places not a tube like the SU carbs. I know from experience ZS carbs vent emission gas fumes because I had some 74 carbs that wouldn't run very well unless all the hoses were used. Glad I switched to 71 carbs that had less venting going on and less hoses to deal with. Sorry for the lazy writing. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Jun 4, 2012, at 4:40 PM, Randall wrote: >> Could switch to ZS carbs. They don't vent they just weep a little in >> various places. > > Is that is a joke? All carbs have float bowl vents, the ZS carbs > are no > exception. The emissions versions actually have two bowl vents per > carb, > one through the face (into the air filter) and the other through a > port on > the side (that gets plumbed to the carbon canister). > > -- Randall > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net From tony at tonydrews.com Mon Jun 4 22:32:13 2012 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Mon, 04 Jun 2012 23:32:13 -0500 Subject: [TR] SU carb fuel bowl In-Reply-To: <7CC4C677-6B4D-474E-ACFB-924EA6015ABA@comcast.net> References: <3b020.114772a2.3cfe53fc@cs.com> <1338840659.90116.YahooMailNeo@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <7CC4C677-6B4D-474E-ACFB-924EA6015ABA@comcast.net> Message-ID: On uncle jack's race car he ran the vent lines out of the engine compartment so that if gas DID run out of them it would be well away from the header. Seems like a good idea... That's what they did on my old Kawasaki, and I'd occasionally leave a stream of gas if a float or two stuck. Tony Drews At 03:23 PM 6/4/2012, Bud Rolofson wrote: >Could switch to ZS carbs. They don't vent they just weep a little in >various places. > >Best preventative thing is to keep the fuel chambers clean of stuff >that will cause fuel valves to stick and then flood. One of my pre- >trip tasks especially for long trips is to drop the bottom of the fuel >chambers and clean them out. The carbs stay on but I gently blow some >air around the underside to get as much dirt as possible out of the >fuel system. I have two fuel filters (one before the fuel pump and one >before the carbs but I still find something in the fuel chamber >bottoms every time I pour the contents into a nice white bowl. > > >Bud Rolofson > >71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) >66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) >66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) >71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) >Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) >levilevi at comcast.net > > > > >On Jun 4, 2012, at 2:10 PM, Frank Fisher wrote: > >>i think all the points are valid. flash points/vapors etc. >>but i find most of those are tests and observations in controlled >>environments. >>i don't care to try those in the uncontrolled environment of my >>precious. >>after my uncontrolled experiment with my VW i recommend venting off >>to some place with a little more safety margin. >>just my thoughts >>Frank From lbrouder at yahoo.co.uk Tue Jun 5 04:52:47 2012 From: lbrouder at yahoo.co.uk (Larry Brouder) Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2012 11:52:47 +0100 (BST) Subject: [TR] Intake Manifold Bolt Issue Message-ID: <1338893567.2363.YahooMailNeo@web28803.mail.ir2.yahoo.com> Hi All, The center bolt in the intake manifold on top isn't moving-it appears to be stripped inside but the stud won't come out-any tricks? I can re-thread and repair, but it's being a bit ornery in coming out. Thanks, Larry 1969 GT6+ From brad.kahler at 141.com Tue Jun 5 08:23:19 2012 From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2012 10:23:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] Need new tires for TR4 In-Reply-To: <02f601cd427c$41fc3cc0$c5f4b640$@rr.com> References: <01fd01cd3adf$672a5d00$0601a8c0@randall> <02f601cd427c$41fc3cc0$c5f4b640$@rr.com> Message-ID: I don't know that I have either, sure would be nice to see a first here :) On Mon, Jun 4, 2012 at 2:02 PM, Randall wrote: > > I'd really like to stay with a stock diameter. I really dislike > > speedometers that read to high or two low :) > > No worries, Brad, that was why I included the information. > > I'm not sure I've ever owned a Triumph where the speedometer actually read > within 5% of truth, though. I've heard they read high even from the > factory. > > -- Randall From brad.kahler at 141.com Tue Jun 5 08:36:58 2012 From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2012 10:36:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] Need new tires for TR4 In-Reply-To: <15B772F1-A349-4A52-98DB-F87E6F45F243@comcast.net> References: <01fd01cd3adf$672a5d00$0601a8c0@randall> <15B772F1-A349-4A52-98DB-F87E6F45F243@comcast.net> Message-ID: Bill, What is the rim width on the TR6? I seem to remember it being wider than 5.0". Brad On Mon, Jun 4, 2012 at 2:07 PM, William Pugh wrote: > After retiring Rosey (1970 TR6) from the SCCA Judged Concours events (her > 1998 restoration was beginning to show her age) We decided that instead of > a "show car", she should just be a "car", the 185/15 Michelin Redlines had > a 1998 date code and were hard as rocks. > Tire Rack suggested 205-70/15s and we bought a set of Michelin Hydroedge, > pricey but they fit nice, were tubeless and overall diameter was close > enough that the speedo was still accurate. Turns per mile were about the > same, but the ride was 200% better, and they stick like glue, even in the > rain. > You might want to check them out  remember you get what you pay for. > > On Jun 4, 2012, at 10:48 AM, Brad Kahler wrote: > > Randall, > > I'd really like to stay with a stock diameter. I really dislike > speedometers that read to high or two low :) > > I suppose I could look into ratio converters for the speedometer if need > be. That's just one more complexity I'd just as soon do without however. > > Thanks! > > brad > > > Bill Pugh > 1957 TR3 "Casper" > TS16765L > Wallace, CA > anabil007 at comcast.net From tr6parts at charter.net Tue Jun 5 09:48:59 2012 From: tr6parts at charter.net (tr6parts at charter.net) Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2012 11:48:59 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Intake Manifold Bolt Issue Message-ID: <61dbf7af.2ca19c.137bd55b2f8.Webtop.49@charter.net> Try some heat on it. Al On Tue, Jun 5, 2012 at 6:52 AM, Larry Brouder wrote: > Hi All, The center bolt in the intake manifold on top isn't moving-it > appears > to be stripped inside but the stud won't come out-any tricks? I can > re-thread > and repair, but it's being a bit ornery in coming out. > Thanks, Larry > 1969 > GT6+ > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr6parts at charter.net From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jun 5 11:56:33 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2012 10:56:33 -0700 Subject: [TR] Need new tires for TR4 In-Reply-To: References: <01fd01cd3adf$672a5d00$0601a8c0@randall> <02f601cd427c$41fc3cc0$c5f4b640$@rr.com> Message-ID: <00d601cd4344$8bc62c30$a3528490$@rr.com> > I don't know that I have either, sure would be nice to see a first here FWIW, I did some experiments in that area. Somewhat tedious and some home-made tools involved, but I was able to achieve a pretty good calibration, within about 2% from 25 mph to 65 mph (according to my reference, a "digital" tachometer from HF). (Also cured a severe waver in the reading.) Above 70 mph it still creeps up though, to about 5% high @ 100 mph. To adjust the calibration, I changed the strength of the flying magnets. To weaken them, I used a simple degaussing coil made from some 14 AWG insulated wire wrapped around a 5/16 bolt and connected to my soldering gun (which supplies low voltage, high current AC). http://goo.gl/fqPE4 (The chart in the background is my table of spindle speeds for the lathe, along with what the speedo should read at each speed.) To strengthen, I wrapped some more wire around a muffler hangar U-bolt and used some big capacitors from the junk box to supply a big spike of DC current. http://goo.gl/IbfMB I originally used the small 12v battery visible; but it didn't deliver enough current through my crude electromagnet. My bench power supply would charge the capacitors to about 60 volts, giving a much larger jolt. After each adjustment of the magnet of course, I had to move the needle to the best position and recheck the results. Now all I have to do is put the 3.45 gears in the rear axle (to match my short tires) and I should be at least closer than I've ever been before. My current project is breaking down the hubs so I can replace the seals & bearings (hopefully without ruining the hubs). In spite of the frustrations, I enjoy learning how to do these things myself. (Which is why I don't just take them to someone else with the right tools.) -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jun 5 12:00:40 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2012 11:00:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] Intake Manifold Bolt Issue In-Reply-To: <1338893567.2363.YahooMailNeo@web28803.mail.ir2.yahoo.com> References: <1338893567.2363.YahooMailNeo@web28803.mail.ir2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <00d701cd4345$1edc4950$5c94dbf0$@rr.com> > Hi All, The center bolt in the intake manifold on top isn't moving-it > appears > to be stripped inside but the stud won't come out-any tricks? Are you talking about the banjo bolt for the vacuum connection? On the one I took apart, the end of the bolt was apparently sticking out inside the manifold and had built up a pile of deposits over the years. I was able to eventually get it apart by working the bolt back and forth, but it sure didn't do the threads in the manifold any good. In your case, the only option may be to drill the bolt. -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jun 5 12:05:30 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2012 11:05:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] SU carb fuel bowl In-Reply-To: References: <3b020.114772a2.3cfe53fc@cs.com> <1338840659.90116.YahooMailNeo@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <7CC4C677-6B4D-474E-ACFB-924EA6015ABA@comcast.net> <000e01cd42a3$0bcab970$23602c50$@rr.com> Message-ID: <00de01cd4345$cb918b10$62b4a130$@rr.com> > Sorry for the lazy writing. No apology needed, Bud. I tend to be somewhat humor-impaired and can't always tell when someone is joking. Thanks for the explanation. When my Stag ZS carb had a float valve problem, the fuel was going into the engine. Not too bad a problem until I accidentally left the key on while I ran in the house for something. When I came back out, the engine was actually hydro-locked from all the fuel piling up in one cylinder! All things considered, I think I prefer a nice, obvious leak. -- Randall From jdemuth at ties2.net Tue Jun 5 12:34:26 2012 From: jdemuth at ties2.net (Joe DeMuth) Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2012 13:34:26 -0500 Subject: [TR] Spare won't fit Message-ID: <65CB09C6-E191-4207-901E-463220D8DFF6@ties2.net> What do folks do about the fact that a new radial ply tire won't slide into the spare compartment in a TR3A? The old bias ply I have been carrying around for 30 years fit, but just barely. The best I've come up with so far is to deflate the tire and carry a cheap-o air compressor. From dave at ranteer.com Tue Jun 5 13:08:12 2012 From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave) Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2012 14:08:12 -0500 Subject: [TR] Spare won't fit In-Reply-To: <65CB09C6-E191-4207-901E-463220D8DFF6@ties2.net> References: <65CB09C6-E191-4207-901E-463220D8DFF6@ties2.net> Message-ID: <7370E7867093419C805139F922D6C047@ranteer.local> I purchased a very narrow tire that fits. unfortunately, its in the shop right now so I can't go out and identify it for you. -----Original Message----- From: Joe DeMuth Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2012 1:34 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Spare won't fit What do folks do about the fact that a new radial ply tire won't slide into the spare compartment in a TR3A? The old bias ply I have been carrying around for 30 years fit, but just barely. The best I've come up with so far is to deflate the tire and carry a cheap-o air compressor. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jun 5 13:43:31 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2012 12:43:31 -0700 Subject: [TR] Spare won't fit In-Reply-To: <65CB09C6-E191-4207-901E-463220D8DFF6@ties2.net> References: <65CB09C6-E191-4207-901E-463220D8DFF6@ties2.net> Message-ID: <00ea01cd4353$7d628e90$7827abb0$@rr.com> A 155 radial will fit, if you can find one. I had one that someone imported from Europe on their own, but it got too old to be safe and I had it recycled. Today, I have a "compact spare" mounted on a standard TR3 rim (T135/70D15 IIRC although a T145/80 might be a better choice). Main problem with it is that it is so small, I have to pack something else beside it to keep it from sliding around. But it has worked quite well, the two times I have had to use it. -- Randall From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Tue Jun 5 14:00:49 2012 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2012 13:00:49 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Spare won't fit In-Reply-To: <65CB09C6-E191-4207-901E-463220D8DFF6@ties2.net> References: <65CB09C6-E191-4207-901E-463220D8DFF6@ties2.net> Message-ID: <1338926449.89989.YahooMailNeo@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> that's my solution frank From: Joe DeMuth To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Tuesday, June 5, 2012 11:34 AM Subject: [TR] Spare won't fit What do folks do about the fact that a new radial ply tire won't slide into the spare compartment in a TR3A? The old bias ply I have been carrying around for 30 years fit, but just barely. The best I've come up with so far is to deflate the tire and carry a cheap-o air compressor. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Tue Jun 5 14:17:32 2012 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2012 13:17:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] Spare won't fit In-Reply-To: <65CB09C6-E191-4207-901E-463220D8DFF6@ties2.net> References: <65CB09C6-E191-4207-901E-463220D8DFF6@ties2.net> Message-ID: On Tue, Jun 5, 2012 at 11:34 AM, Joe DeMuth wrote: > ... The best I've come up with so far is to deflate the tire and carry a > cheap-o air compressor. That's what I do -- also sprinkle baby powder on the sidewalls to help it slide in & out. Good to have a rope or nylon strap around the tire (looped thru the steel wheel) to aid in pulling it out. Picture lying on your back, one foot on each bumberette, pulling on that rope for all you're worth. On a pre-60K TR3A that compartment is a snug fit (possibly moreso in my case do to a sagged/bent boot floor). From buik57389 at yahoo.com Tue Jun 5 15:46:13 2012 From: buik57389 at yahoo.com (karl sisson) Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2012 14:46:13 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Spare won't fit Message-ID: <1338932773.32917.YahooMailMobile@web65408.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> The compact spare from a Volvo sedan(unfortunately I don't remember the year) but it was a 165x15 and it fits nicely. From auprichard at uprichard.net Tue Jun 5 15:54:53 2012 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2012 17:54:53 -0400 Subject: [TR] Spare won't fit In-Reply-To: <00ea01cd4353$7d628e90$7827abb0$@rr.com> References: <65CB09C6-E191-4207-901E-463220D8DFF6@ties2.net> <00ea01cd4353$7d628e90$7827abb0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <6DEA7F0F140D4973ADB3D5552910E2DF@DCH6RFC1> Ditto to Randall's 155 radial which I use in my TR3. On another car I hsd the boot/trunk floor cut out so I could carry a larger wheel in and out through the boot. Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2012 3:44 PM To: 'Joe DeMuth'; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Spare won't fit A 155 radial will fit, if you can find one. I had one that someone imported from Europe on their own, but it got too old to be safe and I had it recycled. Today, I have a "compact spare" mounted on a standard TR3 rim (T135/70D15 IIRC although a T145/80 might be a better choice). Main problem with it is that it is so small, I have to pack something else beside it to keep it from sliding around. But it has worked quite well, the two times I have had to use it. -- Randall ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From auprichard at uprichard.net Tue Jun 5 15:56:30 2012 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2012 17:56:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] Intake Manifold Bolt Issue In-Reply-To: <1338893567.2363.YahooMailNeo@web28803.mail.ir2.yahoo.com> References: <1338893567.2363.YahooMailNeo@web28803.mail.ir2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <79FA3B2F77594F53978D5F9A7E60B4DD@DCH6RFC1> Is this a case where you can put a nut on the bolt, weld it in place and then remove by turning the nut? Worked in the past with me for a head stud that was locked in place. Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Larry Brouder Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2012 6:53 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Intake Manifold Bolt Issue Hi All, The center bolt in the intake manifold on top isn't moving-it appears to be stripped inside but the stud won't come out-any tricks? I can re-thread and repair, but it's being a bit ornery in coming out. Thanks, Larry 1969 GT6+ ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From dave at ranteer.com Tue Jun 5 16:20:19 2012 From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave) Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2012 17:20:19 -0500 Subject: [TR] Intake Manifold Bolt Issue In-Reply-To: <79FA3B2F77594F53978D5F9A7E60B4DD@DCH6RFC1> References: <1338893567.2363.YahooMailNeo@web28803.mail.ir2.yahoo.com> <79FA3B2F77594F53978D5F9A7E60B4DD@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: I had to use vice grips recently on a manifold bolt (after using a smoky wrench) -----Original Message----- From: Andrew Uprichard Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2012 4:56 PM To: 'Larry Brouder' ; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Intake Manifold Bolt Issue Is this a case where you can put a nut on the bolt, weld it in place and then remove by turning the nut? Worked in the past with me for a head stud that was locked in place. From terryrs at comcast.net Tue Jun 5 17:08:29 2012 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2012 23:08:29 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Intake Manifold Bolt Issue In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1858612252.1368274.1338937709412.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Since it could be y our one chance before breaking the stud off, don't forget the numerous pre-heats and soakings with bolt laxitive (Powerblaster). >>I had to use vice grips recently on a manifold bolt (after using a smoky >>wrench) >Is this a case where you can put a nut on the bolt, weld it in place and >then remove by turning the nut? Worked in the past with me for a head stud >that was locked in place. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jun 5 17:21:16 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2012 16:21:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] Spare won't fit In-Reply-To: <00ea01cd4353$7d628e90$7827abb0$@rr.com> References: <65CB09C6-E191-4207-901E-463220D8DFF6@ties2.net> <00ea01cd4353$7d628e90$7827abb0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <002801cd4371$e892c270$b9b84750$@rr.com> > A 155 radial will fit, if you can find one. Here's one on eBay: http://goo.gl/zFio7 -- Randall From wbeech at flash.net Tue Jun 5 20:04:02 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2012 21:04:02 -0500 Subject: [TR] Intake Manifold Bolt Issue In-Reply-To: References: <1338893567.2363.YahooMailNeo@web28803.mail.ir2.yahoo.com><79FA3B2F77594F53978D5F9A7E60B4DD@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: <2A9FF8C114394C66AE58E468F59BDAFC@bboffice> Heat it real good, then spray it with PB Blaster, it will suck it in. Welding a nut on the end will give you a better handle to work from. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2012 5:20 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Intake Manifold Bolt Issue I had to use vice grips recently on a manifold bolt (after using a smoky wrench) -----Original Message----- From: Andrew Uprichard Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2012 4:56 PM To: 'Larry Brouder' ; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Intake Manifold Bolt Issue Is this a case where you can put a nut on the bolt, weld it in place and then remove by turning the nut? Worked in the past with me for a head stud that was locked in place. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From wbeech at flash.net Tue Jun 5 21:11:30 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2012 22:11:30 -0500 Subject: [TR] Spare won't fit In-Reply-To: <65CB09C6-E191-4207-901E-463220D8DFF6@ties2.net> References: <65CB09C6-E191-4207-901E-463220D8DFF6@ties2.net> Message-ID: <595FFF6E949A4A27905BE1180D079D3A@bboffice> I have a 155/R15 that fits in my '58 while the '62 has an old belted tire, probably like what you have. The belted tire holds air just fine and I figure it would get me as far as a newer compact(cheater) spare would. Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe DeMuth Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2012 1:34 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Spare won't fit What do folks do about the fact that a new radial ply tire won't slide into the spare compartment in a TR3A? The old bias ply I have been carrying around for 30 years fit, but just barely. The best I've come up with so far is to deflate the tire and carry a cheap-o air compressor. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Tue Jun 5 21:22:21 2012 From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com) Date: Tue, 5 Jun 2012 23:22:21 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Spare won't fit Message-ID: <1179d.6772ff11.3d0026ed@aol.com> probably already been covered but...I have a modern space saver on my spare wire wheel. Tim Sue and Tim Dyer, Owners Carp Garden Centre & Kings Creek Nurseries SEE US ON FACEBOOK! _http://www.facebook.com/pages/Carp-Garden-Centre/209708349074306_ (http://www.facebook.com/pages/Carp-Garden-Centre/209708349074306) _www.carpgardencentre.com, www.kingscreektrees.com_ (http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) Phone/fax: 613 253 4126, Cell 613 913 5620 Proud member of several professional horticultural trade associations In a message dated 05/06/2012 11:14:24 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, wbeech at flash.net writes: I have a 155/R15 that fits in my '58 while the '62 has an old belted tire, probably like what you have. The belted tire holds air just fine and I figure it would get me as far as a newer compact(cheater) spare would. Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe DeMuth Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2012 1:34 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Spare won't fit What do folks do about the fact that a new radial ply tire won't slide into the spare compartment in a TR3A? The old bias ply I have been carrying around for 30 years fit, but just barely. The best I've come up with so far is to deflate the tire and carry a cheap-o air compressor. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/kingscreektrees at aol.com From lbrouder at yahoo.co.uk Wed Jun 6 06:13:28 2012 From: lbrouder at yahoo.co.uk (Larry Brouder) Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2012 13:13:28 +0100 (BST) Subject: [TR] Intake Manifold Bolt Message-ID: <1338984808.8992.YahooMailNeo@web28805.mail.ir2.yahoo.com> Thanks to all the bolt is off. From fishplate at charter.net Wed Jun 6 17:03:29 2012 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff) Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2012 19:03:29 -0400 Subject: [TR] ARP Flywheel bolts Message-ID: <4FCFE1C1.7000000@charter.net> Got a set of ARP flywheel bolts today for my '75 TR6 (thanks, Ted!), but I forgot to ask - are there any special instructions when I install them? Torque value different from normal bolts? Any thread locker needed? Figured the list would have some opinions... Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. From anncarletta at yahoo.com Wed Jun 6 17:16:49 2012 From: anncarletta at yahoo.com (Ann Carletta) Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2012 16:16:49 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] for tires Message-ID: <1339024609.80887.YahooMailNeo@web113819.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> If you're looking for tire choices I found these when searching for tires for my 1965 Daimler V8 2.5. Coker Tires www.cokertire.com Lucas Tires http://www.lucasclassictires.com Universal https://www.universaltire.com and Eurotire http://www.eurotire.com where I found tires for the Daimler. Also, there was an additional letter that meant the tire had different proportions- they were thinner. Ann From mark at bradakis.com Wed Jun 6 17:42:11 2012 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2012 17:42:11 -0600 Subject: [TR] for tires In-Reply-To: <1339024609.80887.YahooMailNeo@web113819.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <1339024609.80887.YahooMailNeo@web113819.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4FCFEAD3.7040009@bradakis.com> It is worth taking a look at www.*longstonetyres*.co.uk There was just a discussion about them on the healey list. If the bloody archives were working I'd point you there. RealSoonNow. mjb. From mark at bradakis.com Wed Jun 6 17:57:17 2012 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Wed, 06 Jun 2012 17:57:17 -0600 Subject: [TR] for tires In-Reply-To: <4FCFEAD3.7040009@bradakis.com> References: <1339024609.80887.YahooMailNeo@web113819.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> <4FCFEAD3.7040009@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <4FCFEE5D.9060206@bradakis.com> Sorry about that www.longstonetyres.co.uk mjb. ps: In truth my attention was mostly focused on another window where I am working on getting the archives running properly. Slow going. From dave at ranteer.com Wed Jun 6 20:36:55 2012 From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave) Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2012 21:36:55 -0500 Subject: [TR] for tires In-Reply-To: <4FCFEE5D.9060206@bradakis.com> References: <1339024609.80887.YahooMailNeo@web113819.mail.gq1.yahoo.com><4FCFEAD3.7040009@bradakis.com> <4FCFEE5D.9060206@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <51BF8D66A11B4F87958590D39BDB2B8B@ranteer.local> you might just find that tirerack.com or discount tires has them. I've gotten 13 and 14 from them From fogbro1 at comcast.net Thu Jun 7 21:25:14 2012 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2012 03:25:14 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Part needed Message-ID: <39940357.1556894.1339125914547.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> List, Does anyone have a late TR6 1/2 hub w/reverse they'd part with? Part no. is 153843. Thanks, Ed Woods From ambritts at bellsouth.net Thu Jun 7 21:26:10 2012 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2012 23:26:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] Request for TR3 projects Message-ID: Just a quick thank you for everyone that had sent me information on their TR3 projects. Just wanted to let you know that I have passed them all onto to my friend who is looking for one. He is presently dealing with some family issues so he has not had the time to respond or even review them. He has indicated to me that he will be looking at them within a few days and will respond to all. Thx again, Alex From mark at bradakis.com Fri Jun 8 16:21:43 2012 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2012 16:21:43 -0600 Subject: [TR] Sheesh! Message-ID: <4FD27AF7.5020903@bradakis.com> I know this is not within the usual scope of discussion for this list, please bear with me. Go to http://www.ebay.com/drive-away-cancer - some of you may recognize that fellow behind the wheel. And the car is obviously not a Triumph. Scroll down and read about the incident that occurred this afternoon near Birmingham, Alabama. I was just planning on sending out the info about the "unpleasant man" insisting on getting his $55 parking "fine" but I've been thinking about it. That guy basically stole $55 from sick kids in the hospital. That is a BAD thing, if you ask me. John is doing a GOOD thing. And those who do good things should be rewarded tenfold. So to that end I am going to challenge all of us on Team.Net to come up with $550 to give to him. If you are of like mind, and use Paypal, the address is grace at autox.team.net. If you want to send a check, payable to Team.Net, send it to: Team Net PO Box 58333 Salt Lake City, UT 84158. Make sure you tag the funds as being for John, I don't want to steal $55 from him thinking the money was meant for the Fat Chance Garage Tool and Beverage fund - I'm not a godless, greed driven scumbag! mjb. From dave at ranteer.com Fri Jun 8 18:14:22 2012 From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave) Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2012 19:14:22 -0500 Subject: [TR] Sheesh! In-Reply-To: <4FD27AF7.5020903@bradakis.com> References: <4FD27AF7.5020903@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <77944B38807E4E8C8393FB4C01C692EB@ranteer.local> I just talked to the guy. call the number, hit 0, and yell at the bastard. do it a lot. tie up his phone line. anyone got a demon dialer? he's a totally self righteous jerk -----Original Message----- From: Mark J Bradakis Sent: Friday, June 08, 2012 5:21 PM To: Triumphs ; Spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Sheesh! I know this is not within the usual scope of discussion for this list, please bear with me. Go to http://www.ebay.com/drive-away-cancer - some of you may recognize that fellow behind the wheel. And the car is obviously not a Triumph. Scroll down and read about the incident that occurred this afternoon near Birmingham, Alabama. I was just planning on sending out the info about the "unpleasant man" insisting on getting his $55 parking "fine" but I've been thinking about it. That guy basically stole $55 from sick kids in the hospital. That is a BAD thing, if you ask me. From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Fri Jun 8 18:28:00 2012 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2012 20:28:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] Sheesh! Drive Away Cancer Healey In-Reply-To: <4FD27AF7.5020903@bradakis.com> References: <4FD27AF7.5020903@bradakis.com> Message-ID: I've been following Grace's journey since the first one last year and hope to drive with him when he hits Connecticut next month. In the meantime you can subscribe to his Facebook page and see what's happening. With regard to the car getting a boot, you can read what's happened in the link that Mark posted or go to the FaceBook page (http://www.facebook.com/driveawaycancernow) and read all 72 comments........... It looks like this ADT Security Store/Agent is wishing he never put the boot on this car! Bob Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 1975 TR6 with: Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff & CVJs -----Original Message----- From: Mark J Bradakis Sent: Friday, June 08, 2012 6:21 PM To: Triumphs ; Spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Sheesh! I know this is not within the usual scope of discussion for this list, please bear with me. Go to http://www.ebay.com/drive-away-cancer - some of you may recognize that fellow behind the wheel. And the car is obviously not a Triumph. Scroll down and read about the incident that occurred this afternoon near Birmingham, Alabama. I was just planning on sending out the info about the "unpleasant man" insisting on getting his $55 parking "fine" but I've been thinking about it. That guy basically stole $55 from sick kids in the hospital. That is a BAD thing, if you ask me. John is doing a GOOD thing. And those who do good things should be rewarded tenfold. So to that end I am going to challenge all of us on Team.Net to come up with $550 to give to him. If you are of like mind, and use Paypal, the address is grace at autox.team.net. If you want to send a check, payable to Team.Net, send it to: Team Net PO Box 58333 Salt Lake City, UT 84158. Make sure you tag the funds as being for John, I don't want to steal $55 from him thinking the money was meant for the Fat Chance Garage Tool and Beverage fund - I'm not a godless, greed driven scumbag! mjb. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk Sat Jun 9 03:38:12 2012 From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2012 10:38:12 +0100 (BST) Subject: [TR] Sheesh! In-Reply-To: <77944B38807E4E8C8393FB4C01C692EB@ranteer.local> References: <4FD27AF7.5020903@bradakis.com> <77944B38807E4E8C8393FB4C01C692EB@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <1339234692.34891.YahooMailNeo@web29406.mail.ird.yahoo.com> Sounds a bit like the jerk I met in 2009 who demanded an instant refund of his $20 because he thought the sole objective of my charity drive (in a Stag, for Triumph content) would benefit Moslems! But good on the guy driving that Healey and good on the lady who's driving a 1904 Oldsmobile next year from LA to Daytona Beach FL for charity as well. See what she's up to at www.usa-coast2coast.com Jonmac ________________________________ From: Dave To: Triumphs ; Spitfires at autox.team.net Sent: Saturday, 9 June 2012, 1:14 Subject: Re: [TR] Sheesh! >I just talked to the guy. call the number, hit 0, and yell at the bastard. do it a lot. tie up his phone line. anyone got a demon dialer? > >he's a totally self righteous jerk > >-----Original Message----- From: Mark J Bradakis >Sent: Friday, June 08, 2012 5:21 PM >To: Triumphs ; Spitfires at autox.team.net >Subject: [TR] Sheesh! > >I know this is not within the usual scope of discussion for this list, >please bear with me. > >Go to http://www.ebay.com/drive-away-cancer - some of you may recognize >that fellow behind the wheel. And the car is obviously not a Triumph. > >Scroll down and read about the incident that occurred this afternoon >near Birmingham, Alabama. > >I was just planning on sending out the info about the >"unpleasant man" insisting on getting his $55 parking "fine" but >I've been thinking about it. That guy basically stole $55 from sick >kids in the hospital. That is a BAD thing, if you ask me. >** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk From trmarty at hotmail.com Sat Jun 9 06:17:55 2012 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2012 08:17:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] TRF Summer Party In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: To those of us attending the TRF Summer party, below is a excerpt from the latest TRF mailing. This should be fun. And knowing the crowd that attends the party, there will be people dressed appropriately for the toga party:). This could be a real hoot. I gotta start looking for the proper sheet. toga, toga, toga..... Marty The Roadster Factory Summer Party will be held this year on August 2nd, 3rd, and 4th. We are currently creating a tentative schedule which should be fairly complete by next week. Tentatively, it will include a Test 'n' Tune event at the local drag strip, an informal event at a drive- in movie theatre, and a late night bonfire on Thursday. A winery tour, parts sales, seminars, and a street party at The Coventry Inn on Friday. And autocross, mountain road trip, walking poker rallye, LeMans start contest, participants' choice car show, toga party, dinner, awards, and live music on Saturday. We also plan to offer a gymkhana and other events yet to be scheduled. Summer Party is an informal event with a lot of fun and time to spend with new friends. It has always been great fun at a very reasonable price, and participants may camp on TRF grounds with rough facilities for a tiny fee. A registration form is up on the web site, and you can go there now by clicking on the link provided. https://secure.zeni.net/trf/SPform.php From gpr at key-men.com Sat Jun 9 07:01:41 2012 From: gpr at key-men.com (George Richardson) Date: Sat, 09 Jun 2012 09:01:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] A Touch of England - NJ Message-ID: <4FD34935.9030604@key-men.com> Don't suppose anyone of you've got access to email and can give an update? :-) It's just starting to sprinkle here, but it looks like it might be clear there for the time being. -- George Richardson Key Men - Keys for Classics www.key-men.com From lbrouder at yahoo.co.uk Sat Jun 9 07:02:26 2012 From: lbrouder at yahoo.co.uk (Larry Brouder) Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2012 14:02:26 +0100 (BST) Subject: [TR] Engine block painted? Message-ID: <1339246946.94572.YahooMailNeo@web28806.mail.ir2.yahoo.com> Hi All-The engine on my 1969 GT6+ is painted sky blue. Don't think it's correct, but an't find any definitive answer on it. The other sad part is that whomever painted it painted bolts, etc. Yikes. If anyone knows of the blocks being painted please advise. I've seen a few red ones as well. Larry 1972 Tr6 1960 GT6+ From tr3a58 at verizon.net Sat Jun 9 07:25:39 2012 From: tr3a58 at verizon.net (Dean Tetterton) Date: Sat, 09 Jun 2012 08:25:39 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Part needed Message-ID: <31926104.1086791.1339248339111.JavaMail.root@vznit170128> /local/mailman/lynxXXXXcOc86Z: Permission denied From sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com Sat Jun 9 07:45:51 2012 From: sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com (Steve Thornton) Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2012 08:45:51 -0500 Subject: [TR] TRF Summer Party In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks Marty for sharing this. If I go to only one show in a Summer, this is it. For those of you who haven't been to The Summer Party, it is a very different weekend from other shows. While the Car Show is nice, it is not the focus of the weekend. There is something for everyone. My wife and children, who don't necessarily enjoy car shows like I do, enjoy this one. Many of the same people come back each year, which also makes it like a TR reunion. You can camp, stay at a hotel (all levels available) or enjoy one of the several wonderful bed and breakfast opportunities available in Indiana or Dilltown. The bed and breakfast we like is the Dillweed, which is very close to TRF. Personally, I enjoy the Drive-in movie. How cool is it to be at the Drive-in with your Triumph? It is a great sight to see all of those TR's lined up at the theatre. I also enjoy hanging out in the repair shop at TRF. They will do repair work for cars having difficulties while traveling. This is a great place to listen and learn. That is where I initially met Fred Thomas. He spent almost his entire time at The Summer Party helping repair cars and getting people back on the road, enjoying every minute of it. Perhaps that is the best way to describe the spirit of the event, while remembering a dear old friend. Hey Marty, would Fred have worn a Toga? Steven O. Thornton Attorney at Law 1011 Lehman Avenue Suite 102 Bowling Green, KY. 42103 Sent from my iPad On Jun 9, 2012, at 7:21 AM, "marty sukey" wrote: > To those of us attending the TRF Summer party, below is a excerpt from the > latest TRF mailing. This should be fun. And knowing the crowd that attends > the party, there will be people dressed appropriately for the toga party:). > This could be a real hoot. I gotta start looking for the proper sheet. > toga, toga, toga..... > > Marty > > The Roadster Factory Summer Party will be held this year on August > 2nd, > 3rd, and 4th. We are currently creating a tentative schedule which > should be > fairly complete by next week. Tentatively, it will include a > Test 'n' Tune > event at the local drag strip, an informal event at a drive- > in movie > theatre, and a late night bonfire on Thursday. A winery tour, > parts sales, > seminars, and a street party at The Coventry Inn on Friday. > And autocross, > mountain road trip, walking poker rallye, LeMans start > contest, participants' > choice car show, toga party, dinner, awards, and > live music on Saturday. We > also plan to offer a gymkhana and other events > yet to be scheduled. Summer > Party is an informal event with a lot of fun > and time to spend with new > friends. It has always been great fun at a very > reasonable price, and > participants may camp on TRF grounds with rough > facilities for a tiny fee. A > registration form is up on the web site, and > you can go there now by clicking > on the link provided. > > > https://secure.zeni.net/trf/SPform.php > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.co m From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com Sat Jun 9 08:39:28 2012 From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad) Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2012 07:39:28 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Engine block painted? In-Reply-To: <1339246946.94572.YahooMailNeo@web28806.mail.ir2.yahoo.com> References: <1339246946.94572.YahooMailNeo@web28806.mail.ir2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1339252768.93261.YahooMailNeo@web120506.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> I had an all original '69. Its engine was black In fact, I still have its engine in my shop. Chad in Tulsa. ________________________________ From: Larry Brouder To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" Sent: Saturday, June 9, 2012 8:02 AM Subject: [TR] Engine block painted? Hi All-The engine on my 1969 GT6+ is painted sky blue. Don't think it's correct, but an't find any definitive answer on it. The other sad part is that whomever painted it painted bolts, etc. Yikes. If anyone knows of the blocks being painted please advise. I've seen a few red ones as well. Larry 1972 Tr6 1960 GT6+ ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com From jhassall at blacksburg.net Sat Jun 9 09:18:11 2012 From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall) Date: Sat, 09 Jun 2012 11:18:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] needed: inop late-style TR6 dimmer Message-ID: <4FD36933.8000004@blacksburg.net> Folks, I need an inoperative dimmer, the style used on the later TR6s and Spitlys (perhaps also used on the Stag). It's the "D" shaped dimmer, not the earlier rheostat. Any help out there? TIA! jim -- Jim Hassall Blacksburg VA '63 TR4 in autox preparation 99% finished, 90% to go From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Jun 9 09:31:08 2012 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2012 11:31:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Xmas Present for Dad Message-ID: <6D9B048B131A495F847E766816B03A02@BobPC> Does anyone know who this is? What a great present. http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=r7olb7_kp7U Bob Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 1975 TR6 with: Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff & CVJs From dave at ranteer.com Sat Jun 9 09:33:26 2012 From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave) Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2012 10:33:26 -0500 Subject: [TR] needed: inop late-style TR6 dimmer In-Reply-To: <4FD36933.8000004@blacksburg.net> References: <4FD36933.8000004@blacksburg.net> Message-ID: <5CA819C1AFD4417FB9602357D36285C7@ranteer.local> I thought they were all inop . . . -----Original Message----- From: J.C. Hassall Sent: Saturday, June 09, 2012 10:18 AM To: tr list Subject: [TR] needed: inop late-style TR6 dimmer Folks, I need an inoperative dimmer, the style used on the later TR6s and Spitlys (perhaps also used on the Stag). It's the "D" shaped dimmer, not the earlier rheostat. Any help out there? TIA! jim From allegrorover at mac.com Sat Jun 9 09:52:32 2012 From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio) Date: Sat, 09 Jun 2012 11:52:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] Sheesh! In-Reply-To: <1339234692.34891.YahooMailNeo@web29406.mail.ird.yahoo.com> References: <4FD27AF7.5020903@bradakis.com> <77944B38807E4E8C8393FB4C01C692EB@ranteer.local> <1339234692.34891.YahooMailNeo@web29406.mail.ird.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <3C4D3ADD-877A-4FAE-B089-52519BD5CCA9@mac.com> Not sure if you all saw that later the Security company apologized, refunded the money and made a donation to the Cancer drive. If your still thinking about harassing them, just wanted you to know. It probably came from all the feedback they got, rightfully so. Tony Cascio 58 TR3A TS27093L allegrorover at mac.com www.triumphowners.com/1489 From tr3a58 at verizon.net Sat Jun 9 11:08:48 2012 From: tr3a58 at verizon.net (Dean Tetterton) Date: Sat, 09 Jun 2012 12:08:48 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Fwd: Re: Part needed Message-ID: <9274770.1102775.1339261728137.JavaMail.root@vznit170128> Date: Jun 9, 2012 9:25:39 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Part needed To: fogbro1 at comcast.net, triumphs at autox.team.net Ed I have three of them. 2 used at $75 or 1 NOS in the box for $200. TRF also list them for $249.95. I think they are also NOS. Dean Tetterton On 06/07/12, fogbro1 at comcast.net wrote: List, Does anyone have a late TR6 1/2 hub w/reverse they'd part with? Part no. is 153843. Thanks, Ed Woods ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3a58 at verizon.net From tfansher at comcast.net Sat Jun 9 11:13:19 2012 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Sat, 9 Jun 2012 13:13:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] TRF Summer Party References: Message-ID: Fred wore a Toga to grammar school. Later he had it powder coated ;^) Tom Hey Marty, would Fred have worn a Toga? > > >/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tfansher at comcast.net From carlsereda at aol.com Sun Jun 10 16:57:12 2012 From: carlsereda at aol.com (Carl Sereda) Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2012 18:57:12 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] TR4 factory optional anti-sway bar eBay In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CF1573818749A7-1594-4CC4@webmail-d143.sysops.aol.com> TR4 Listers.. Was someone looking for a factory optional anti-sway bar for TR4 (9/16" bar and brackets)? here's one on eBay for $75.. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Triumph-TR4-original-front-sway-bar-/120927348871?pt= Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c27d4e887#ht_500wt_1413 Regards, Carl '63 TR4 since '74 From trguy75 at gmail.com Sun Jun 10 17:27:14 2012 From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen) Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2012 19:27:14 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 factory optional anti-sway bar eBay In-Reply-To: <8CF1573818749A7-1594-4CC4@webmail-d143.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CF1573818749A7-1594-4CC4@webmail-d143.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <3610F7CB-CE33-492E-9115-724FEB43879F@gmail.com> That was me. It is a little banged up but might be able to be fixed. Thanks, Jim Henningsen Ocala, FL 62 TR4 75 TR6 Sent from my iPad On Jun 10, 2012, at 6:57 PM, Carl Sereda wrote: > TR4 Listers.. > Was someone looking for a factory optional anti-sway bar for TR4 (9/16" bar > and brackets)? > here's one on eBay for $75.. > http://www.ebay.com/itm/Triumph-TR4-original-front-sway-bar-/120927348871?pt= > Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c27d4e887#ht_500wt_1413 > Regards, > Carl > '63 TR4 since '74 > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trguy75 at gmail.com From wbeech at flash.net Sun Jun 10 17:35:05 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2012 18:35:05 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 factory optional anti-sway bar eBay In-Reply-To: <8CF1573818749A7-1594-4CC4@webmail-d143.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CF1573818749A7-1594-4CC4@webmail-d143.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Will this fit a TR3A or B? Sent from mobile Bill On Jun 10, 2012, at 5:57 PM, Carl Sereda wrote: > TR4 Listers.. > Was someone looking for a factory optional anti-sway bar for TR4 (9/16" bar > and brackets)? > here's one on eBay for $75.. > http://www.ebay.com/itm/Triumph-TR4-original-front-sway-bar-/120927348871?pt= > Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c27d4e887#ht_500wt_1413 > Regards, > Carl > '63 TR4 since '74 > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jun 10 19:13:54 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2012 18:13:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 factory optional anti-sway bar eBay In-Reply-To: References: <8CF1573818749A7-1594-4CC4@webmail-d143.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <00e301cd476f$789783f0$0601a8c0@randall> > Will this fit a TR3A or B? Not without some modification. The ends of the bar connect to the A-arms, which are 3 or 4" farther apart on a TR4 than on a 3/A/B. -- Randall From terryrs at comcast.net Sun Jun 10 19:54:52 2012 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2012 01:54:52 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] steering box rebuild In-Reply-To: <00e301cd476f$789783f0$0601a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <265053801.1574387.1339379692399.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> This coming winter, I'm finally going to do something about the dodgy steering response in the 3. Most of it looks straightforward, but I can't remember...does the worm gear get pressed onto the steering shaft? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From fogbro1 at comcast.net Mon Jun 11 07:35:32 2012 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2012 13:35:32 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] 1/2 TR6 hub Message-ID: <1856659308.9457.1339421732024.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> List, Had one reply offering a new TR6 1/2 hub. Lost it. Would the sender please resend? Thanks, Ed Woods From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jun 11 11:07:20 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2012 10:07:20 -0700 Subject: [TR] steering box rebuild In-Reply-To: <265053801.1574387.1339379692399.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <00e301cd476f$789783f0$0601a8c0@randall> <265053801.1574387.1339379692399.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <064901cd47f4$aa0e2b20$fe2a8160$@rr.com> > does the worm gear get pressed onto the steering > shaft? Oddly enough, that is one of the few areas I've never had apart. But as I recall from previous discussions, the worm gear is a light press fit on the (splined) shaft and then the end of the shaft is peened over to lock the gear in place. Sounds like removing the old shaft without damaging it is the hard part. I probably should tackle this someday, as I have a very nice original worm on a ruined shaft; and the worm on my car shows some signs of wear. But I have always been in a hurry to get the car back on the road and the old worm was "good enough" ... Let us know how you make out. -- Randall From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Mon Jun 11 14:22:05 2012 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2012 16:22:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] Weekend project - added the relays for the rear brake light on the TR2 Message-ID: Brief update - I installed a new wiring harness a few weeks ago and put some extra wires in there for some updates. That single rear brakelight was making me uncomfortable. Thanks to those on the list who provided input when I was asking about this. Goals - tail lights function as brake lights; no damage to existing harness; relays in a dry location (well as dry as you can get in an early TR); circuitry out of sight as much as possible. I made a short youtube video showing how I performed this modification. By the looks of it - I'll not make a living doing how to videos anytime soon..... http://youtu.be/yPupAf-ixTo 100% 100% Share Add to [image: Cancel]Cancel The relays fit pretty snugly in the rear corners - I'm not sure I'll drill holes to screw them down - for now a tie wrap is all they will get. Soon I'll be replacing the bulbs with LED's. Next projects - horn relay and headlamp relays. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jun 11 15:45:21 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2012 14:45:21 -0700 Subject: [TR] Weekend project - added the relays for the rear brake light on the TR2 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <06a301cd481b$811a1720$834e4560$@rr.com> > By > the looks of it - I'll not make a living doing how to videos anytime > soon..... Well, you've certainly done a better video than I did! BTW, I did the same thing on my TR3, but with only 2 relays mounted up under the dash. I also wired the brake lights to work even with the key off and used a mechanical brake switch (also hidden under the dash). At this point, I think the sockets are more hassle than they are worth; so I've quit using them. -- Randall From terryrs at comcast.net Mon Jun 11 15:51:42 2012 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2012 21:51:42 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] steering box rebuild In-Reply-To: <064901cd47f4$aa0e2b20$fe2a8160$@rr.com> Message-ID: <323915135.1617723.1339451502075.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> > ...as I recall from previous discussions, the worm gear is a light press fit on the (splined) shaft and then the end of the shaft is peened over to lock the gear > in place. Sounds like removing the old shaft without damaging it is the hard part. Well, for starters, I called The Roadster Factory to order a replacement worm gear. They don't sell them. Dave says it has to do with the liability factor for people who might DIY and mess up, then sue. I can see their point. Even men are named Sue in our society. Good news, Moss Motors does carry and sell them. I'll let my very trusted machine shop (Sanels here in Concord, NH) take off and press on. But, since it'll be a wile for them to get to, I'll just tighten the adjustment down and manually crank hard on the steering wheel through this driving season, then rebuild the box over the winter in my--dare I say it?--newly heated garage!!!!! Oh, one more thing. I expect this is an apron-off enterprise, right? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jun 11 16:08:31 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2012 15:08:31 -0700 Subject: [TR] steering box rebuild In-Reply-To: <323915135.1617723.1339451502075.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <064901cd47f4$aa0e2b20$fe2a8160$@rr.com> <323915135.1617723.1339451502075.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <06a701cd481e$bcf60170$36e20450$@rr.com> > Well, for starters, I called The Roadster Factory to order a > replacement worm gear. They don't sell them. I believe they will install a new worm on your shaft, though. P/N 508191R. You have to ship them your old shaft first. > I'll just tighten the adjustment down Not the best idea, IMO. Better to live with a little play than to have it bind (or worse yet, break something). > Oh, one more thing. I expect this is an apron-off enterprise, right? I was able to remove the steering box from my 3A (with the split column) without removing the apron. But I'm not certain it was any easier than just removing the apron. As I recall, the cross tube had to come loose (although I left it laying in the car), and I undid both motor mounts and jacked the engine up to get enough clearance. Seems like maybe the driver's side horn had to come loose, too. Then I was able to pivot the lower half of the column until it was nearly vertical, and pull the box up and out. Replacing just the peg, bush and seal was one of the best things I ever did for that car. There were a few other changes at the same time, but the result was lighter steering than I've ever had with a TR3A. One of those "I should have done this years ago" moments. On the TR3 (with the solid column) there is no question, the apron has to come off. And I still don't have the TR3 steering as nicely as the TR3A did (although it's getting better). -- Randall From areich at telus.net Tue Jun 12 00:49:44 2012 From: areich at telus.net (Allan Reich) Date: Mon, 11 Jun 2012 23:49:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] Problem with J-type overdrive blowing fuses Message-ID: <4FD6E688.3090506@telus.net> Greetings: I recently installed a J-type overdrive in my TR6 and after 100 or so kms, it started blowing fuses. Sometimes right away and sometimes shortly after. I put the overdrive system on a separate circuit and it acted the same. Could it be the solenoid acting up and drawing too much current or is it usually a short in the switch or wiring system? Allan Reich Vancouver Canada 1975 TR6 CF30255U (and occasionally "O" when it works!) From greg at gelhar.com Tue Jun 12 05:33:40 2012 From: greg at gelhar.com (greg at gelhar.com) Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2012 07:33:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] Problem with J-type overdrive blowing fuses In-Reply-To: <4FD6E688.3090506@telus.net> References: <4FD6E688.3090506@telus.net> Message-ID: <0a9cc599c7a4ee276451d87d1733bc74.squirrel@email.accountsupport.com> > Greetings: > I recently installed a J-type overdrive in my TR6 and after 100 or so > kms, it started blowing fuses. Sometimes right away and sometimes > shortly after. > I put the overdrive system on a separate circuit and it acted the same. > Could it be the solenoid acting up and drawing too much current or is it > usually a short in the switch or wiring system? > Allan Reich > Vancouver Canada > 1975 TR6 CF30255U (and occasionally "O" when it works!) > > Its good that you supplied the overdrive with a fused circuit. The overdrive solenoid has two windings. A heavy 'closing' coil and a lighter 'holding' coil. The heavy coil draws 18 to 19 amps and is only in the circuit momentarily. The solenoid should close with a surge of current and the ammeter should show arround 1 to 1 1/2 amps. That shows the 'holding' coil is working and the 'closing' coil has been switched off by the solenoid plunger action. The plunger switch is under the top cap of the solenoid. Without your fuse, the solenoid won't last long if the switch fails to work. Greg G. Osseo, MN From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Jun 12 05:54:10 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2012 07:54:10 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Problem with J-type overdrive blowing fuses Message-ID: <7e2d.33daf270.3d0887e1@cs.com> One way to check is to unplug the solenoid and secure the wire so you know it isn't going to touch ground and then see if the fuse blows. If there is a ground fault (wire insulation worn away allowing the wire to touch ground) the fuse will still blow. Or you can replace the fuse with an auto-reset circuit breaker. Then the overdrive will be intermittent. ;-) Does it blow at random times or does it blow predictably? Dave In a message dated 6/12/2012 1:49:53 AM Central Daylight Time, areich at telus.net writes: > I recently installed a J-type overdrive in my TR6 and after 100 or so > kms, it started blowing fuses. Sometimes right away and sometimes > shortly after. > I put the overdrive system on a separate circuit and it acted the same. > Could it be the solenoid acting up and drawing too much current or is it > usually a short in the switch or wiring system? From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Jun 12 06:25:32 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2012 08:25:32 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Problem with J-type overdrive blowing fuses Message-ID: <894b.6b3aa97.3d088f3c@cs.com> Good point, Greg, except Allan has a J-type overdrive which uses a pilot operated valve and has only one winding. But to everyone with an A-type take these words to heart. I suggest a 5 amp slow blow. Dave In a message dated 6/12/2012 7:09:53 AM Central Daylight Time, greg at gelhar.com writes: > Its good that you supplied the overdrive with a fused circuit. The > overdrive solenoid has two windings. A heavy 'closing' coil and a lighter > 'holding' coil. The heavy coil draws 18 to 19 amps and is only in the > circuit momentarily. The solenoid should close with a surge of current and > the ammeter should show arround 1 to 1 1/2 amps. That shows the 'holding' > coil is working and the 'closing' coil has been switched off by the > solenoid plunger action. The plunger switch is under the top cap of the > solenoid. > > Without your fuse, the solenoid won't last long if the switch fails to > work. From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jun 12 06:58:22 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2012 05:58:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] Problem with J-type overdrive blowing fuses In-Reply-To: <0a9cc599c7a4ee276451d87d1733bc74.squirrel@email.accountsupport.com> References: <4FD6E688.3090506@telus.net> <0a9cc599c7a4ee276451d87d1733bc74.squirrel@email.accountsupport.com> Message-ID: <017501cd489b$0cd85f90$0601a8c0@randall> > The > overdrive solenoid has two windings. A heavy 'closing' coil > and a lighter 'holding' coil. That is true for A and D type overdrives; but not the J-type. The J-type uses a hydraulic amplifier, so the solenoid doesn't need to supply as much force and a single coil will do. IMO the problem is most likely to be in the wiring. The coil for the J-type solenoid is pretty simple and "potted" in epoxy. Anything is possible, but an intermittent short inside the coil seems unlikely to me. -- Randall From mtgaines at presby.edu Tue Jun 12 09:00:18 2012 From: mtgaines at presby.edu (Tim Gaines) Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2012 11:00:18 -0400 Subject: [TR] Toyota tranny conversion TR6? Message-ID: I asked for list advice on diagnosing a possible gearbox failure in my TR6 awhile back (original post below), and after several helpful suggestions I finally accepted that it almost certainly was the tranny. I'm into it now, and the damage is obvious. For several years I had planned a Type J overdrive installation at some point, and I obtained the O/D unit from a Spit and a TR6 mounting plate. I know that there are a couple of other things I would need, and I don't even know if the O/D unit is in good shape (it's still on the Spit parts car in my shed!). Now that the time has come, I've just about decided to abandon the O/D plan in favor of the 5-speed Toyota conversion using Herman van den Akker's kit. It sounds like a much easier job with the likelihood of more reliability in the future. I went out looking for the required Toyota tranny just to see if they are available, and I got lucky (I think) with a solid, clean, smooth one with 56,000 miles for $100. I decided to buy it on the spot even though I hadn't completely decided on getting the kit. Now I'm at the point of ordering the kit, but at $1675 (no shipping charge!) this is pretty sobering decision. I've probably missed some discussion of this conversion on the list (sorry), but I'd like some reassurances from those who have done it or looked into it. I've talked to Herman, and he seems like a very helpful, friendly guy, but I just don't want to be surprised by something down the road that I should have considered. Thanks, Tim Gaines Clinton, SC 1974 TR6 1980 Spitfire >I thought I was leaving for a nice drive of about 150 miles in the >TR6 a few days ago, but I didn't get farther than the gas station >before some nasty noises turned me right around. When taking off >from a stop I get a crunching sound plus a "zzzup" thrown in once in >a while. My first thought was that I had a stone or two from my >newly graveled driveway sitting on top of the drive shaft. But I >also thought it could be the tranny or the differential, and I >didn't want to take any chances out on the road. I got home >okay. In fact, the car ran smoothly once up to speed. It only made >the sounds at takeoff. I got it up on jackstands and couldn't find >any evidence of stones or loose flange bolts at either end of the >drive shaft or at the rear axles. I also couldn't reproduce the >sounds with the wheels off the ground, either with the rear wheels >under power or by turning the front ones by hand. I also couldn't >feel or hear anything when I turned the rear wheels by hand or the >drive shaft with a wrench on the flange bolts. > >When I got the car on the ground and found that it still made the >sounds (no lucky fix!), I started thinking it might be a disc brake >pad issue. It seemed like the sounds were coming from the >front. Today I replaced the pads and the nasty looking anti squeal >shims. In the process I rotated the rotors with and without pads in >place and got no noises. However, I did get something like the >"zzzup" noise when I deflected the rotor guard into the rotor while >turning it. After everything was back together I made sure that the >guard wasn't touching the rotor before getting the car back on the >ground. Just took a drive up the road, and nothing has changed; >crunchy noises and "zzzups" at takeoff, forward and backward, but >fine after it's up to speed. I think I can feel a little something >through the shifter when the noises occur, but I'm not really >positive about that. I also think that the noises stop when I >disengage the clutch, but by the time I reach speed enough for that, >the noises are usually gone anyway. > >So folks, what am I up against? Does a transmission make those >kinds of noises when it's failing? Is there something else I should >be looking at? Thanks for any help you can offer. From allegrorover at mac.com Tue Jun 12 11:30:18 2012 From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio) Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2012 13:30:18 -0400 Subject: [TR] Toyota tranny conversion TR6? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Tim, I installed the HVDA conversion on my TR3A about 5 years ago and can tell you I wouldn't have it any other way. As you already found out Toyota transmissions are relatively inexpensive compared to a rebuilt TR and even more with the OD. I did have to replace one transmission on my travels to Yipsilanti, but that was my fault as I didn't leave the driveshaft clearance that Hermann recommends. I was able to order a replacement transmission from a supplier in Texas and it cost me 500.00. By the way I have since shortened, converted to a solid tube and balanced my driveshaft. I'm sorry I don't remember whether the W56 or the W58 comes out of a Celica or not, but the tranny out of the P/U is a lower gear ratio, I personally would recommend the Celica trans. Hermann is great to work with and will answer any questions you might have during the conversion. of course I would recommend that you have someone look at that tranny you picked up and replace the seals before installation. Good luck Tony Cascio 58 TR3A TS27093L allegrorover at mac.com www.triumphowners.com/1489 From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Tue Jun 12 11:51:34 2012 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2012 10:51:34 -0700 Subject: [TR] Toyota tranny conversion TR6? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Tim -- Not to recommend one approach over another but just to give you a look at some options... Bill Close in Mesa offers a slightly different kit for adapting the W58 to a TR: Eaglegate . I've heard good comments from a couple of drivers. His approach is perhaps simpler because it retains more of the original TR clutch/throw-out/hydraulics. What I went with, John Esposito's rebuilt ODs: Quantumechanics Perhaps the most costly approach but lets you say 'Laycock de Normanville' in everyday conversations. Geo On Tue, Jun 12, 2012 at 8:00 AM, Tim Gaines wrote: > ...I've just about decided to abandon the O/D plan in favor of the 5-speed > Toyota conversion... From agraham at execulink.com Tue Jun 12 13:47:00 2012 From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham) Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2012 15:47:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3/TR6 front brake flex hoses. Message-ID: <4FD79CB4.7020002@execulink.com> Hello List: Just wondering if anyone knows if TR6 front brake flex hoses will work on a TR3 with the later split calipers? The length is about the same but wondering about the caliper end threads. Seem to recall something about a metric thread here. Does the solid hose end use the same male/female fitting arrangement as the '3? Thanks for any help with this one. Angelo Graham From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Tue Jun 12 20:32:55 2012 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2012 22:32:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] Weekend project - added the relays for the rear brake light on the TR2 In-Reply-To: <06a301cd481b$811a1720$834e4560$@rr.com> References: <06a301cd481b$811a1720$834e4560$@rr.com> Message-ID: I made a mistake or two on the youtube video. Also the sockets are purely optional. I liked the sockets as they had a dovetail to connect multiple ones together - I see from some of Randall's pics it looks like the connection may not be so great on some of the sockets and created heat that melted the socket - not good. I think for my horn and headlight mods I'll directly solder to the relays and heat shrink the connection. The mistakes were: SPDT relays are what I used and not DPDT; The wiring diagram should be connecting 87 on one relay to 87a of the other. I hope I did not screw anyone up. I've corrected the video now and posted - http://youtu.be/vA-A0LD_dfs From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com Tue Jun 12 20:35:49 2012 From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly) Date: Tue, 12 Jun 2012 19:35:49 -0700 Subject: [TR] Toyota tranny conversion TR6? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <002d01cd490d$3f064370$bd12ca50$@rr.com> I installed Herman's conversion two years ago after contemplating Quantum Mechanic's overdrive as Geo did. You cannot tell from the interior that's it's in there, and it's really nice to have that 5th gear. I put the car through it's paces every day. No hiccups. I don't have to worry about crappy reliability of the "A" OD, or huge expense of fixing it. Just looking at all the "A" overdrive e-postings about problems, fuses, solenoids, switching, etc, scares me. If the OD goes south we're talking weeks to get the car back on the road. That's not for me. I have none of that will all the bennies, it was a no-brainer. As I understand it the Eagle conversion requires interior modifications, as does the Australian conversion, so this didn't make sense to me. Unless you crawl underneath the car the only one who knows it's there is me. If you drove it you wouldn't know that there's a fifth gear. I think the value is actually increased! And besides, the serial number doesn't have the suffix of LO anyway, so I'm holding true to the history! Johnnie > -----Original Message----- > > Tim -- > > Not to recommend one approach over another but just to give you a look > at > some options... > > Bill Close in Mesa offers a slightly different kit for adapting the W58 > to > a TR: Eaglegate . I've heard good > comments > from a couple of drivers. His approach is perhaps simpler because it > retains more of the original TR clutch/throw-out/hydraulics. > > What I went with, John Esposito's rebuilt ODs: > Quantumechanics ex&catid=7> > Perhaps the most costly approach but lets you say 'Laycock de > Normanville' > in everyday conversations. > > Geo > > > > On Tue, Jun 12, 2012 at 8:00 AM, Tim Gaines > wrote: > > > ...I've just about decided to abandon the O/D plan in favor of the 5- > speed > > Toyota conversion... From dave at ranteer.com Wed Jun 13 07:53:35 2012 From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2012 08:53:35 -0500 Subject: [TR] Toyota tranny conversion TR6? In-Reply-To: <002d01cd490d$3f064370$bd12ca50$@rr.com> References: <002d01cd490d$3f064370$bd12ca50$@rr.com> Message-ID: another opinion . . I have never experienced the 5 speed. I put an overdrive in my car 5 years ago; drive about 6000 miles per year, hard. on tail of the dragon we went up and down constantly from 2nd to 2nd od and back again. it was great. I really like having that od on 2nd, 3rd, and 4th. I use it a lot. like a lot of things on these cars, if you do it right the first time, you won't have trouble with it for a long time. if you inherit or buy a car where its old or deteriorating, just like almost every other part on these cars, you will have trouble. in summary, I love the od and never have any problems. From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Wed Jun 13 08:50:54 2012 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2012 07:50:54 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Toyota tranny conversion TR6? In-Reply-To: <002d01cd490d$3f064370$bd12ca50$@rr.com> References: <002d01cd490d$3f064370$bd12ca50$@rr.com> Message-ID: <1339599054.80654.YahooMailNeo@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> if you are talking about the Australian bell housing from Delow, then i have to say I'm very happy with it. choosing the right W58 Toyota gear box will put your shifter within an inch of your original shifter in a TR3. also choosing the "right" W58 will get your speedo to work within 4% of reality. when checked against my GPS. as i did all the rest of the machine work myself i was extremely happy with the way mine turned out. cant tell i have the 5 speed unless you lie on your back under the car. completely reliable for 3 years now. Frank From: John & Pat Donnelly To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Tuesday, June 12, 2012 7:35 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Toyota tranny conversion TR6? I installed Herman's conversion two years ago after contemplating Quantum Mechanic's overdrive as Geo did. You cannot tell from the interior that's it's in there, and it's really nice to have that 5th gear. I put the car through it's paces every day. No hiccups. I don't have to worry about crappy reliability of the "A" OD, or huge expense of fixing it. Just looking at all the "A" overdrive e-postings about problems, fuses, solenoids, switching, etc, scares me. If the OD goes south we're talking weeks to get the car back on the road. That's not for me. I have none of that will all the bennies, it was a no-brainer. As I understand it the Eagle conversion requires interior modifications, as does the Australian conversion, so this didn't make sense to me. Unless you crawl underneath the car the only one who knows it's there is me. If you drove it you wouldn't know that there's a fifth gear. I think the value is actually increased! And besides, the serial number doesn't have the suffix of LO anyway, so I'm holding true to the history! Johnnie > -----Original Message----- > > Tim -- > > Not to recommend one approach over another but just to give you a look > at > some options... > > Bill Close in Mesa offers a slightly different kit for adapting the W58 > to > a TR: Eaglegate . I've heard good > comments > from a couple of drivers. His approach is perhaps simpler because it > retains more of the original TR clutch/throw-out/hydraulics. > > What I went with, John Esposito's rebuilt ODs: > Quantumechanics ex&catid=7> > Perhaps the most costly approach but lets you say 'Laycock de > Normanville' > in everyday conversations. > > Geo > > > > On Tue, Jun 12, 2012 at 8:00 AM, Tim Gaines > wrote: > > > ...I've just about decided to abandon the O/D plan in favor of the 5- > speed > > Toyota conversion... ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Jun 13 08:56:16 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2012 10:56:16 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Toyota tranny conversion TR6? Message-ID: <4fda8.6f495534.3d0a0410@cs.com> Likewise. I installed a J-type in my TR6 in 1990. I've had to rebuild the transmission twice but the OD has worked just fine though it all. The overdrive is the most reliable part of the drivetrain. Now, it could be argued that the Toyota transmission is more reliable than the TR box... Dave In a message dated 6/13/2012 8:57:43 AM Central Daylight Time, dave at ranteer.com writes: > another opinion . . > > I have never experienced the 5 speed. > > I put an overdrive in my car 5 years ago; drive about 6000 miles per year, > > hard. > > on tail of the dragon we went up and down constantly from 2nd to 2nd od > and > back again. it was great. I really like having that od on 2nd, 3rd, and > 4th. I use it a lot. > > like a lot of things on these cars, if you do it right the first time, you > > won't have trouble with it for a long time. if you inherit or buy a car > where its old or deteriorating, just like almost every other part on these > > cars, you will have trouble. > > in summary, I love the od and never have any problems. From spook01 at comcast.net Wed Jun 13 09:36:02 2012 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2012 10:36:02 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Toyota_tranny_conversion_TR6=3F?= Message-ID: Wasn't that gearbox originally a truck box? Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: Dave1massey at cs.com To: Subject: [TR] Toyota tranny conversion TR6? Date: Wed, Jun 13, 2012 09:56 Likewise. I installed a J-type in my TR6 in 1990. I've had to rebuild the transmission twice but the OD has worked just fine though it all. The overdrive is the most reliable part of the drivetrain. Now, it could be argued that the Toyota transmission is more reliable than the TR box... Dave In a message dated 6/13/2012 8:57:43 AM Central Daylight Time, dave at ranteer.com writes: > another opinion . . > > I have never experienced the 5 speed. > > I put an overdrive in my car 5 years ago; drive about 6000 miles per year, > > hard. > > on tail of the dragon we went up and down constantly from 2nd to 2nd od > and > back again. it was great. I really like having that od on 2nd, 3rd, and > 4th. I use it a lot. > > like a lot of things on these cars, if you do it right the first time, you > > won't have trouble with it for a long time. if you inherit or buy a car > where its old or deteriorating, just like almost every other part on these > > cars, you will have trouble. > > in summary, I love the od and never have any problems. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From spook01 at comcast.net Wed Jun 13 09:39:23 2012 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2012 10:39:23 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Toyota_tranny_conversion_TR6=3F?= Message-ID: Hermans conversion is super, and he answers all questions fully and knowledgeabley. Too bad I can't find a kit for the Riley RMB. That Toyota tranny will handle more power than a tr can produce! Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Frank Fisher" To: "John & Pat Donnelly" , "Triumphs at autox.team.net" Subject: [TR] Toyota tranny conversion TR6? Date: Wed, Jun 13, 2012 09:50 if you are talking about the Australian bell housing from Delow, then i have to say I'm very happy with it. choosing the right W58 Toyota gear box will put your shifter within an inch of your original shifter in a TR3. also choosing the "right" W58 will get your speedo to work within 4% of reality. when checked against my GPS. as i did all the rest of the machine work myself i was extremely happy with the way mine turned out. cant tell i have the 5 speed unless you lie on your back under the car. completely reliable for 3 years now. Frank From: John & Pat Donnelly To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Tuesday, June 12, 2012 7:35 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Toyota tranny conversion TR6? I installed Herman's conversion two years ago after contemplating Quantum Mechanic's overdrive as Geo did. You cannot tell from the interior that's it's in there, and it's really nice to have that 5th gear. I put the car through it's paces every day. No hiccups. I don't have to worry about crappy reliability of the "A" OD, or huge expense of fixing it. Just looking at all the "A" overdrive e-postings about problems, fuses, solenoids, switching, etc, scares me. If the OD goes south we're talking weeks to get the car back on the road. That's not for me. I have none of that will all the bennies, it was a no-brainer. As I understand it the Eagle conversion requires interior modifications, as does the Australian conversion, so this didn't make sense to me. Unless you crawl underneath the car the only one who knows it's there is me. If you drove it you wouldn't know that there's a fifth gear. I think the value is actually increased! And besides, the serial number doesn't have the suffix of LO anyway, so I'm holding true to the history! Johnnie > -----Original Message----- > > Tim -- > > Not to recommend one approach over another but just to give you a look > at > some options... > > Bill Close in Mesa offers a slightly different kit for adapting the W58 > to > a TR: Eaglegate . I've heard good > comments > from a couple of drivers. His approach is perhaps simpler because it > retains more of the original TR clutch/throw-out/hydraulics. > > What I went with, John Esposito's rebuilt ODs: > Quantumechanics ex&catid=7> > Perhaps the most costly approach but lets you say 'Laycock de > Normanville' > in everyday conversations. > > Geo > > > > On Tue, Jun 12, 2012 at 8:00 AM, Tim Gaines > wrote: > > > ...I've just about decided to abandon the O/D plan in favor of the 5- > speed > > Toyota conversion... ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jun 13 09:44:37 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2012 08:44:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] Toyota tranny conversion TR6? In-Reply-To: <4fda8.6f495534.3d0a0410@cs.com> References: <4fda8.6f495534.3d0a0410@cs.com> Message-ID: <030801cd497b$708ac4c0$0601a8c0@randall> > Now, it could be argued that the Toyota transmission is more > reliable than the TR box... Maybe, but when's the last time you saw a 40 year old Toyota on the road? -- Randall From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Jun 13 10:34:29 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2012 12:34:29 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Toyota tranny conversion TR6? Message-ID: <6b327.2a89d7e2.3d0a1b15@cs.com> It was probably dual purposed for both RWD cars and light trucks. Dave In a message dated 6/13/2012 10:36:05 AM Central Daylight Time, spook01 at comcast.net writes: > Wasn't that gearbox originally a truck box? From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed Jun 13 10:38:49 2012 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2012 12:38:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] Toyota tranny conversion TR6? In-Reply-To: <030801cd497b$708ac4c0$0601a8c0@randall> References: <4fda8.6f495534.3d0a0410@cs.com> <030801cd497b$708ac4c0$0601a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <13E48FD10F364E2FA2F8D38767990CF2@BobPC> Wouldn't you say that the reason you don't see 40 year old Toyotas is because they are exactly considered "collectibles" or classics...........but the W58 tranny has always been considered bullet-proof. The biggest problem going forward will be the availability of the tranny as I'm betting most of the original cars with them head straight to the crusher. Any idea what percentage of TRs are still on the road 40 years later? If it weren't for folks like us there wouldn't be many. Bob Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 1975 TR6 with: Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff & CVJs -----Original Message----- From: Randall Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2012 11:44 AM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Toyota tranny conversion TR6? > Now, it could be argued that the Toyota transmission is more > reliable than the TR box... Maybe, but when's the last time you saw a 40 year old Toyota on the road? -- Randall ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Jun 13 10:48:30 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2012 12:48:30 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Toyota tranny conversion TR6? Message-ID: <6bb19.692ca85.3d0a1e5e@cs.com> Ha ha. Reminds me of an episode of Top Gear where they disparaged the Nissan Sunny as the most boring car ever produced. How nature gave us celery and we humans improved on it. Then they proceeded to back a jet powered dragster up to and torch the Sunny with its exhaust. Seriously, the Toyota box is likely to be 10 years old (or less), is a more recent design and designed by a company that historically been more concerned with reliability. The Triumph box is a good design but they tend to munch up the layshafts and cluster gears. I little bit better metallurgy in that department and I would tend to call it a draw. Dave In a message dated 6/13/2012 10:44:42 AM Central Daylight Time, TR3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > Maybe, but when's the last time you saw a 40 year old Toyota on the road? From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Wed Jun 13 10:51:12 2012 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2012 09:51:12 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Toyota tranny conversion TR6? In-Reply-To: <13E48FD10F364E2FA2F8D38767990CF2@BobPC> References: <4fda8.6f495534.3d0a0410@cs.com> <030801cd497b$708ac4c0$0601a8c0@randall> <13E48FD10F364E2FA2F8D38767990CF2@BobPC> Message-ID: <1339606272.57919.YahooMailNeo@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> here in the southwest i see lots of 40 yr old cars still limping around. i look around the parking lot where i work. these young Mexican immigrants use them as its all they can afford. and they are amazing at keeping them running with 200mph tape. the big problem here is mechanics and emissions, not body rot. just this morning i saw a late70/early80 celica on the freeway. it looked good. the 1980's celica is gaining a little momentum as a collector car but likely wont hit its popularity for another 10/15 years. im guessing the gears share their life with other toyota products, so while you may not pick up a complete box you probably will still be able to find a single gear or 2. and as the conversion kits are not requiring major changes, you can always go back to your standard 4 speed. Frank From: Bob Danielson <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2012 9:38 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Toyota tranny conversion TR6? Wouldn't you say that the reason you don't see 40 year old Toyotas is because they are exactly considered "collectibles" or classics...........but the W58 tranny has always been considered bullet-proof. The biggest problem going forward will be the availability of the tranny as I'm betting most of the original cars with them head straight to the crusher. Any idea what percentage of TRs are still on the road 40 years later? If it weren't for folks like us there wouldn't be many. Bob Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 1975 TR6 with: Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff & CVJs -----Original Message----- From: Randall Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2012 11:44 AM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Toyota tranny conversion TR6? > Now, it could be argued that the Toyota transmission is more > reliable than the TR box... Maybe, but when's the last time you saw a 40 year old Toyota on the road? -- Randall ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Wed Jun 13 10:53:47 2012 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2012 09:53:47 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Toyota tranny conversion TR6? In-Reply-To: <1339603468.92489.YahooMailNeo@web120201.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1339603468.92489.YahooMailNeo@web120201.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1339606427.49206.YahooMailNeo@web120201.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> From: Frank Fisher To: "spook01 at comcast.net" ; John & Pat Donnelly ; "Triumphs at autox.team.net" Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2012 9:04 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Toyota tranny conversion TR6? I'm not suggesting for one minute that Herman's conversion kit is not good or that he is not a good after sales service guy. it is a good kit and he is a great guy. i know Herman, he is a member of my local club and a great guy. But, i like the way i built my own with the Delow bell housing. and the delow bell housing works great. i have access to a machine shop to make mine the way i wanted and i have the engineering skills to do it. if you don't have the machine shop and skills then Hermans is a great kit. Frank From: "spook01 at comcast.net" To: Frank Fisher ; John & Pat Donnelly ; "Triumphs at autox.team.net" Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2012 8:39 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Toyota tranny conversion TR6? Hermans conversion is super, and he answers all questions fully and knowledgeabley. Too bad I can't find a kit for the Riley RMB. That Toyota tranny will handle more power than a tr can produce! Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Frank Fisher" To: "John & Pat Donnelly" , "Triumphs at autox.team.net" Subject: [TR] Toyota tranny conversion TR6? Date: Wed, Jun 13, 2012 09:50 if you are talking about the Australian bell housing from Delow, then i have to say I'm very happy with it. choosing the right W58 Toyota gear box will put your shifter within an inch of your original shifter in a TR3. also choosing the "right" W58 will get your speedo to work within 4% of reality. when checked against my GPS. as i did all the rest of the machine work myself i was extremely happy with the way mine turned out. cant tell i have the 5 speed unless you lie on your back under the car. completely reliable for 3 years now. Frank From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Wed Jun 13 10:58:35 2012 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2012 09:58:35 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Toyota tranny conversion TR6? Message-ID: <1339606715.38085.YahooMailNeo@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> not being intimate with the Riley products. did they share parts with any of the other british cars. eg an MG-T series? Frank From: "spook01 at comcast.net" To: Frank Fisher ; John & Pat Donnelly ; "Triumphs at autox.team.net" Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2012 8:39 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Toyota tranny conversion TR6? Hermans conversion is super, and he answers all questions fully and knowledgeabley. Too bad I can't find a kit for the Riley RMB. That Toyota tranny will handle more power than a tr can produce! From triosan at gmail.com Wed Jun 13 11:13:50 2012 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2012 10:13:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] Toyota tranny conversion TR6? In-Reply-To: <1339606272.57919.YahooMailNeo@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <4fda8.6f495534.3d0a0410@cs.com> <030801cd497b$708ac4c0$0601a8c0@randall> <13E48FD10F364E2FA2F8D38767990CF2@BobPC> <1339606272.57919.YahooMailNeo@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I did a little digging on the web and came up with these comparisons [not sure what TR box he was using] Gears Stock Triumph Toyota W58 W56 1ST 3.14:1 3.29:1 3.95 2ND 2.01:1 1.89:1 2.14 3RD 1.33:1 1.28:1 1.3 4TH 1.00:1 1.00:1 1 5TH N/A 0.78:1 0.85 -- Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jun 13 11:51:36 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2012 10:51:36 -0700 Subject: [TR] Toyota tranny conversion TR6? In-Reply-To: References: <4fda8.6f495534.3d0a0410@cs.com> <030801cd497b$708ac4c0$0601a8c0@randall> <13E48FD10F364E2FA2F8D38767990CF2@BobPC> <1339606272.57919.YahooMailNeo@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000301cd498d$315fa2e0$941ee8a0$@rr.com> > [not sure what TR box he was using] Best I can make out, a non-overdrive TR3 box. The full chart would be (from PH 6th ed) 1st 3.14 2nd 2.01 3rd 1.325 4th 1.00 With the overdrive (apples to apples), the ratios become 1st 3.14 2nd 2.01 2ndOD 1.65 3rd 1.325 3rdOD 1.09 4th 1.00 4thOD 0.82 Also, there is a digit missing from the data; 3rd gear for a W56 should be 1.384 according to Wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_W_transmission#W56 -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jun 13 12:08:15 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2012 11:08:15 -0700 Subject: [TR] Toyota tranny conversion TR6? In-Reply-To: <13E48FD10F364E2FA2F8D38767990CF2@BobPC> References: <4fda8.6f495534.3d0a0410@cs.com> <030801cd497b$708ac4c0$0601a8c0@randall> <13E48FD10F364E2FA2F8D38767990CF2@BobPC> Message-ID: <000701cd498f$81386480$83a92d80$@rr.com> > Wouldn't you say that the reason you don't see 40 year old Toyotas is > because they are exactly considered "collectibles" or > classics. No, having driven a late 60's (68 IIRC) Toyota, I'd say it was because they were rightly considered junk. There are a modest number of other "non-collectible" 60s and 70s cars running around here (saw a Datsun/Nissan B210 on the way to work this morning), but you really have to be a masochist to keep flogging an old Toyota. But my real point was not that Toyotas are unreliable (even though I am very unimpressed with the ones the wife has owned), but rather that we are comparing old transmissions to (relatively) new ones. -- Randall From anabil007 at comcast.net Wed Jun 13 12:15:14 2012 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2012 11:15:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] Toyota tranny conversion TR6? In-Reply-To: <000301cd498d$315fa2e0$941ee8a0$@rr.com> References: <4fda8.6f495534.3d0a0410@cs.com> <030801cd497b$708ac4c0$0601a8c0@randall> <13E48FD10F364E2FA2F8D38767990CF2@BobPC> <1339606272.57919.YahooMailNeo@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <000301cd498d$315fa2e0$941ee8a0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <498FAF7C-61B2-434F-88E4-2FAC5B3804A2@comcast.net> You would be better off with the W58  W56 was primarily used in Trucks  bad ratios for a Triumph On Jun 13, 2012, at 10:51 AM, Randall wrote: >> [not sure what TR box he was using] > > Best I can make out, a non-overdrive TR3 box. The full chart would be (from > PH 6th ed) > 1st 3.14 > 2nd 2.01 > 3rd 1.325 > 4th 1.00 > > With the overdrive (apples to apples), the ratios become > 1st 3.14 > 2nd 2.01 > 2ndOD 1.65 > 3rd 1.325 > 3rdOD 1.09 > 4th 1.00 > 4thOD 0.82 > > Also, there is a digit missing from the data; 3rd gear for a W56 should be > 1.384 according to Wikipedia > http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_W_transmission#W56 > > -- Randall > "Life is too short to drive boring cars Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA anabil007 at comcast.net From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Wed Jun 13 12:33:48 2012 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2012 11:33:48 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Toyota tranny conversion TR6? In-Reply-To: <498FAF7C-61B2-434F-88E4-2FAC5B3804A2@comcast.net> References: <4fda8.6f495534.3d0a0410@cs.com> <030801cd497b$708ac4c0$0601a8c0@randall> <13E48FD10F364E2FA2F8D38767990CF2@BobPC> <1339606272.57919.YahooMailNeo@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <000301cd498d$315fa2e0$941ee8a0$@rr.com> <498FAF7C-61B2-434F-88E4-2FAC5B3804A2@comcast.net> Message-ID: <1339612428.98512.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> i believe there are a number of different ratio's depending on what model the W56 was installed in. certainly mine is different that the one i fitted in buddy Curt's car. also there are at least 4 different shifter locations again depending on what model the transmission was installed in. see this for shifter locations: http://users.tpg.com.au/users/loats/technical/ma61/gearboxes.html B i believe the nice thing about Herman's kit is he replaces the shifter location housing with his own well engineered replacement. ask Herman. From: William Pugh To: Randall Cc: 'Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley' ; 'Frank Fisher' ; Triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2012 11:15 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Toyota tranny conversion TR6? You would be better off with the W58 b& W56 was primarily used in Trucks b& bad ratios for a Triumph On Jun 13, 2012, at 10:51 AM, Randall wrote: [not sure what TR box he was using] >> >Best I can make out, a non-overdrive TR3 box. B The full chart would be (from >PH 6th ed) >1st3.14 >2nd2.01 >3rd1.325 >4th1.00 > >With the overdrive (apples to apples), the ratios become >1st3.14 >2nd2.01 >2ndOD 1.65 >3rd1.325 >3rdOD 1.09 >4th1.00 >4thOD 0.82 > >Also, there is a digit missing from the data; 3rd gear for a W56 should be >1.384 according to Wikipedia >http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_W_transmission#W56 > >-- Randall > > "Life is too short to drive boring cars Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA anabil007 at comcast.net From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Wed Jun 13 12:37:07 2012 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2012 11:37:07 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Toyota tranny conversion TR6? In-Reply-To: <1339612428.98512.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <4fda8.6f495534.3d0a0410@cs.com> <030801cd497b$708ac4c0$0601a8c0@randall> <13E48FD10F364E2FA2F8D38767990CF2@BobPC> <1339606272.57919.YahooMailNeo@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <000301cd498d$315fa2e0$941ee8a0$@rr.com> <498FAF7C-61B2-434F-88E4-2FAC5B3804A2@comcast.net> <1339612428.98512.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1339612627.72238.YahooMailNeo@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> and good old Herman made a chart for all the different ratio's http://www.hvdaconversions.com/faq.html From: Frank Fisher To: William Pugh ; Randall Cc: 'Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley' ; "Triumphs at autox.team.net" Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2012 11:33 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Toyota tranny conversion TR6? i believe there are a number of different ratio's depending on what model the W56 was installed in. certainly mine is different that the one i fitted in buddy Curt's car. also there are at least 4 different shifter locations again depending on what model the transmission was installed in. see this for shifter locations: http://users.tpg.com.au/users/loats/technical/ma61/gearboxes.html i believe the nice thing about Herman's kit is he replaces the shifter location housing with his own well engineered replacement. ask Herman. From spook01 at comcast.net Wed Jun 13 12:48:10 2012 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2012 13:48:10 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Toyota_tranny_conversion_TR6=3F?= Message-ID: Nah. If they did, I'd be set! They have the big Healey Silverstone type engine. Riley did all sorts of weird stuff: the front brakes are hydraulic, the rear mechanical, with rods and levers. The RMB was the last "real" Riley according to some. The later "Pathfinder" (known as the Ditchfinder) was more bmc parts bin friendly. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Frank Fisher" To: "spook01 at comcast.net" , "John & Pat Donnelly" , "Triumphs at autox.team.net" Subject: [TR] Toyota tranny conversion TR6? Date: Wed, Jun 13, 2012 11:58 not being intimate with the Riley products. did they share parts with any of the other british cars. eg an MG-T series? Frank From: "spook01 at comcast.net" To: Frank Fisher ; John & Pat Donnelly ; "Triumphs at autox.team.net" Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2012 8:39 AMSubject: Re: [TR] Toyota tranny conversion TR6? Hermans conversion is super, and he answers all questions fully and knowledgeabley.Too bad I can't find a kit for the Riley RMB.That Toyota tranny will handle more power than a tr can produce! From spook01 at comcast.net Wed Jun 13 12:50:44 2012 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2012 13:50:44 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Toyota_tranny_conversion_TR6=3F?= Message-ID: Bmc did that with the healey gearboxes, too. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: Dave1massey at cs.com To: , Subject: [TR] Toyota tranny conversion TR6? Date: Wed, Jun 13, 2012 11:34 It was probably dual purposed for both RWD cars and light trucks. Dave In a message dated 6/13/2012 10:36:05 AM Central Daylight Time, spook01 at comcast.net writes: Wasn't that gearbox originally a truck box? From spook01 at comcast.net Wed Jun 13 12:56:54 2012 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2012 13:56:54 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Toyota_tranny_conversion_TR6=3F?= Message-ID: That would be the '72 models. 8rc with overhead cam. They had their teething problems (timing chains, water pumps) , but people drove the wheels off them. The earlier rt42-52 were old fashioned pushrods. They sold millions of the 8 and 18rc engines. Reliable as a hammer. We almost never saw the insides of the gearbox. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Randall" To: Subject: [TR] Toyota tranny conversion TR6? Date: Wed, Jun 13, 2012 10:44 > Now, it could be argued that the Toyota transmission is more > reliable than the TR box... Maybe, but when's the last time you saw a 40 year old Toyota on the road? -- Randall ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From zoboherald at aol.com Wed Jun 13 13:12:06 2012 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2012 15:12:06 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Toyota tranny conversion TR6? In-Reply-To: <20120613185442.A78B12D063A@autox.team.net> References: <20120613185442.A78B12D063A@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <8CF17AF8EAB5AD5-11AC-3D9C@webmail-m160.sysops.aol.com> Most manufacturers have done that over the years, and Standard-Triumph was no exception. Pretty much all our beloved TRs and Spitfires and such are based very heavily on "family car" bits and/or shared many parts with them, whether they were Vanguards (of which there were a number of commercial versions) or Heralds or the 2000/2500/2.5 range, etc., etc.! --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us -----Original Message----- From: spook01 Sent: Wed, Jun 13, 2012 2:55 pm Subject: Re: [TR] Toyota tranny conversion TR6? Bmc did that with the healey gearboxes, too. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: Dave1massey at cs.com To: , Subject: [TR] Toyota tranny conversion TR6? Date: Wed, Jun 13, 2012 11:34 It was probably dual purposed for both RWD cars and light trucks. Dave In a message dated 6/13/2012 10:36:05 AM Central Daylight Time, spook01 at comcast.net writes: Wasn't that gearbox originally a truck box? From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed Jun 13 13:21:12 2012 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2012 15:21:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] Toyota tranny conversion TR6? In-Reply-To: <20120613185623.2E3A82D0659@autox.team.net> References: <20120613185623.2E3A82D0659@autox.team.net> Message-ID: I've had the whole conversion process to the HVDA kit on my site for about 5 years now. All the ratios can be found here http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/5speedRatio.htm Herman's kit only supports specific tranny's so if you're going with his kit make sure you only get the ones he specifies. Since I got mine he's branched out a little to some Lexus models. I'd stay away from any Toyota tranny's out of a truck..........especially if it's lived in snow country............snow plowing can raise havoc with a tranny. Bob Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 1975 TR6 with: Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff & CVJs From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Wed Jun 13 14:41:47 2012 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2012 13:41:47 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Toyota tranny conversion TR6? In-Reply-To: <20120613185428.D8D192D060A@autox.team.net> References: <20120613185428.D8D192D060A@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <1339620107.46704.YahooMailNeo@web120201.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> for those of you who have a W58 in your TR3, may i ask what you did to make clearance for your speedo cable? when i first did my install i just ran the cable into the side of the trany. this meant i had to put a really tight bend in the cable to miss the dog house. it took 2 years for the inner cable to give up and break. i now have the angle drive from a Toyota and upon a quick inspection it looks kinda tight. but have not tried with any effort yet. that will be Saturday. what have you guys done? Frank From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Jun 13 14:49:05 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2012 16:49:05 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Toyota tranny conversion TR6? Message-ID: <7d45.681ae034.3d0a56c0@cs.com> The whole A-H drivetrain was from a lorry. But the TR box was from the Vanguard (probably) and as such it was designed for lighter duty than the Toyota box. Dave In a message dated 6/13/2012 1:50:47 PM Central Daylight Time, spook01 at comcast.net writes: > Bmc did that with the healey gearboxes, too. > > Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone > > ----- Reply message ----- > From: Dave1massey at cs.com > To: , > Subject: [TR] Toyota tranny conversion TR6? > Date: Wed, Jun 13, 2012 11:34 > > > > It was probably dual purposed for both RWD cars and light trucks. > > Dave From terryrs at comcast.net Wed Jun 13 17:14:33 2012 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2012 23:14:33 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] New Engine Break-In In-Reply-To: <1337709677.12508.YahooMailNeo@web120201.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1455656910.41341.1339629273554.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> For those like me with suspicious minds, the engine rebuild on my TR3A has been going too well. I therefore expect planets to collide, sheep to molest voles, and my wife's mother to praise me excessively. In short, Armageddon. But no. Quite the opposite. At least so far. Last week I finished putting the engine back in the car, bolting on all the little danglies, and having it inspected by my trusted master mechanic, who actually owned one of these back in the day, but nevertheless managed to bugger up the steering with a too-loose adjustment. Why is it people who pick up your guitar insist on tuning it even though you and your electronic tuner had it spot-on???? Adjusted the valves again. Drove the car to work (45 minutes each way) twice. Lost a little power on the trip home the second day. Found the vacuum advance was loose. So...about the vacuum advance attachment under the carb. Am I the only one that has a hard time keeping this tight? I've resorted to JB weld this evening to fill the air leak around the tiny copper pipe. Anybody have a better solution for this one? ...before the next white full moon urinates on Tanzania? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From aljlthomson at charter.net Wed Jun 13 19:04:08 2012 From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2012 21:04:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] Toyota tranny conversion TR6? In-Reply-To: References: <20120613185623.2E3A82D0659@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <005701cd49c9$9a6225b0$cf267110$@charter.net> I have hung on to the 5 speed that I had in my 81.5 Toyota diesel pickup. Those engines were only about 60 H.P. and I think the transmission ratios were fairly widely spread out. 1st was not a creeper gear, but it was low enough so that there was no clutch slipping to get the truck moving on a hill. Not sure if that would be a good candidate for a TR-6 or GT-6. Alex Thomson -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2012 3:21 PM To: Randall; Triumphs at autox.team.net; spook01 at comcast.net Subject: Re: [TR] Toyota tranny conversion TR6? I've had the whole conversion process to the HVDA kit on my site for about 5 years now. All the ratios can be found here http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/5speedRatio.htm Herman's kit only supports specific tranny's so if you're going with his kit make sure you only get the ones he specifies. Since I got mine he's branched out a little to some Lexus models. I'd stay away from any Toyota tranny's out of a truck..........especially if it's lived in snow country............snow plowing can raise havoc with a tranny. Bob Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 1975 TR6 with: Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff & CVJs ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net From mdporter at dfn.com Wed Jun 13 19:10:57 2012 From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2012 19:10:57 -0600 Subject: [TR] Toyota tranny conversion TR6? In-Reply-To: <13E48FD10F364E2FA2F8D38767990CF2@BobPC> References: <4fda8.6f495534.3d0a0410@cs.com> <030801cd497b$708ac4c0$0601a8c0@randall> <13E48FD10F364E2FA2F8D38767990CF2@BobPC> Message-ID: <4FD93A21.1090006@dfn.com> On 6/13/2012 10:38 AM, Bob Danielson wrote: > Wouldn't you say that the reason you don't see 40 year old Toyotas is > because they are exactly considered "collectibles" or > classics...........but the W58 tranny has always been considered > bullet-proof. More recent versions may be considered bulletproof, but, the earlier versions of the W58 designed for passenger cars were actually installed in the trucks, as well, and with a known defect--the large single-row ball bearings supporting the mainshaft. The passenger cars rarely displayed a problem, but the 4-wheel drives and diesel trucks using the same transmission could almost be counted on to fail. For several years, Toyota had an undisclosed 3-year, 60,000 mile warranty on the transmission bearings in those applications because they had decided it would be cheaper to honor repair claims than to retool for main bearings capable of handling more torque. IIRC, that redesign appeared circa 1988. Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com Wed Jun 13 20:06:34 2012 From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (Brian Induni) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2012 19:06:34 -0700 Subject: [TR] Anyone done a T5 gearbox swap? Message-ID: <002b01cd49d2$530c3080$f9249180$@roadrunner.com> Seeing the discussion about gearbox swaps, I'm thinking of picking up a T5 for a future project. The problem I see is this particular gearbox has ratios of (1-5) 2.95 1.94 1.34 1 0.73. Does anyone see an issue with the first gear being so low? This box came out of a V8 Camaro so it had a bit more engine umph. My long term plan is to pick up a Stag, use a Buick 215 with a T5 while I rebuild the stock Stag V8. I like originality, so I'd want to have the ability to put the Stag back to the way it was. Of course, finding a 215 and T5 is lot easier than finding a Stag... but that's another story. Thoughts on the T5 in any of the TR line would be appreciated. Brian '66 AH Sprite '63 MGB Looking for a Stag! From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Wed Jun 13 20:11:25 2012 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2012 19:11:25 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] vacum advance Message-ID: <1339639885.25371.YahooMailNeo@web65515.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> The lister that mentioned vacum advance reminded me of my issue with my tr-3. Is a functioning vacum (ok ok i can't spell for sh--)lol advance essential? I have a functioning unit on my distributor but have switched carbs so that my carb that's plumbed for the advance is the rear carb and I'm not sure the pipe will reach. (maybe a person could drill out the front carb to accept the pipe?) Just wondering. gary n. From darrellw360 at mac.com Wed Jun 13 20:33:26 2012 From: darrellw360 at mac.com (Darrell Walker) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2012 19:33:26 -0700 Subject: [TR] vacum advance In-Reply-To: <1339639885.25371.YahooMailNeo@web65515.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <1339639885.25371.YahooMailNeo@web65515.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <89F59C2B-FDC1-42B9-B604-91BA0D7306BE@mac.com> On Jun 13, 2012, at 7:11 PM, Gary Nafziger wrote: > Is a functioning vacum (ok ok i can't spell for sh--)lol advance essential? > I have a functioning unit on my distributor but have switched carbs so that my > carb that's plumbed for the advance is the rear carb and I'm not sure the pipe > will reach. (maybe a person could drill out the front carb to accept the > pipe?) > > Just wondering. It isn't essential in the sense that the car will run. It will affect gas mileage. Can you just get another length of vacuum line to run further back? -Darrell -- Darrell Walker 66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L 81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206 Vancouver, WA, USA From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com Wed Jun 13 21:06:43 2012 From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad) Date: Wed, 13 Jun 2012 20:06:43 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Anyone done a T5 gearbox swap? In-Reply-To: <002b01cd49d2$530c3080$f9249180$@roadrunner.com> References: <002b01cd49d2$530c3080$f9249180$@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: <1339643203.42466.YahooMailNeo@web120503.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Brian- There are lots of T5's out there with different gear ratios. I picked up a WC T5 out of an '85 Mustang to put behind my 215. It has a .63 5th gear!!!! There are 3 or 4 Stags on Evilbay rightnow.....get yourself one! Chad in Tulsa '64 Sports 6 Saloon '68 TR250 '71 Stag '73 TR6 '74 TR6 '75 TR6 '76 TR6 ...and one very lonely, but loved '74 MGB-GT. ________________________________ From: Brian Induni <308gtsi at roadrunner.com> To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2012 9:06 PM Subject: [TR] Anyone done a T5 gearbox swap? Seeing the discussion about gearbox swaps, I'm thinking of picking up a T5 for a future project. The problem I see is this particular gearbox has ratios of (1-5) 2.95 1.94 1.34 1 0.73. Does anyone see an issue with the first gear being so low? This box came out of a V8 Camaro so it had a bit more engine umph. My long term plan is to pick up a Stag, use a Buick 215 with a T5 while I rebuild the stock Stag V8. I like originality, so I'd want to have the ability to put the Stag back to the way it was. Of course, finding a 215 and T5 is lot easier than finding a Stag... but that's another story. Thoughts on the T5 in any of the TR line would be appreciated. Brian '66 AH Sprite '63 MGB Looking for a Stag! ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Jun 14 05:23:30 2012 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2012 07:23:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] Anyone done a T5 gearbox swap? In-Reply-To: <1339643203.42466.YahooMailNeo@web120503.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <002b01cd49d2$530c3080$f9249180$@roadrunner.com> <1339643203.42466.YahooMailNeo@web120503.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <0AE10DA72B8A46E5A341437B557A678C@BobPC> There are a few guys in the 6-Pack Forum (www.6-pack.org) who have done the Dupont conversion (http://dupontmachining.com/) which uses the T5. Bob Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 1975 TR6 with: Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff & CVJs -----Original Message----- From: Chad Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2012 11:06 PM To: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com ; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Anyone done a T5 gearbox swap? Brian- There are lots of T5's out there with different gear ratios. I picked up a WC T5 out of an '85 Mustang to put behind my 215. It has a .63 5th gear!!!! There are 3 or 4 Stags on Evilbay rightnow.....get yourself one! Chad in Tulsa '64 Sports 6 Saloon '68 TR250 '71 Stag '73 TR6 '74 TR6 '75 TR6 '76 TR6 ...and one very lonely, but loved '74 MGB-GT. ________________________________ From: Brian Induni <308gtsi at roadrunner.com> To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2012 9:06 PM Subject: [TR] Anyone done a T5 gearbox swap? Seeing the discussion about gearbox swaps, I'm thinking of picking up a T5 for a future project. The problem I see is this particular gearbox has ratios of (1-5) 2.95 1.94 1.34 1 0.73. Does anyone see an issue with the first gear being so low? This box came out of a V8 Camaro so it had a bit more engine umph. My long term plan is to pick up a Stag, use a Buick 215 with a T5 while I rebuild the stock Stag V8. I like originality, so I'd want to have the ability to put the Stag back to the way it was. Of course, finding a 215 and T5 is lot easier than finding a Stag... but that's another story. Thoughts on the T5 in any of the TR line would be appreciated. Brian '66 AH Sprite '63 MGB Looking for a Stag! ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Thu Jun 14 09:55:04 2012 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2012 08:55:04 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] spitfire wheel spacers Message-ID: <1339689304.33239.YahooMailNeo@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> i was approached today by one of our spitfire/GT6 brothers looking for the high performance wheel spacers like the ones i made for Bob D. http://www.tr6.danielsonfamily.org/FrankFisher.htm i would be happy to make a run of these if there is enough interest. they would sell at about 35.00 a pair, and shipping would be between 12.00 and 15.00 depending on where you live. any interest? Frank From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk Thu Jun 14 10:07:03 2012 From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2012 17:07:03 +0100 (BST) Subject: [TR] spitfire wheel spacers In-Reply-To: <1339689304.33239.YahooMailNeo@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1339689304.33239.YahooMailNeo@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1339690023.33521.YahooMailNeo@web29404.mail.ird.yahoo.com> Really interesting pix showing Frank's 'specials'. Towards the bottom where you come to wheel spacers, that brake disc looks more than a little 'tired.' Jonmac ________________________________ From: Frank Fisher To: Triumphs Sent: Thursday, 14 June 2012, 16:55 Subject: [TR] spitfire wheel spacers >i was approached today by one of our spitfire/GT6 brothers looking for the high performance wheel spacers like the ones i made for Bob D. >http://www.tr6.danielsonfamily.org/FrankFisher.htm >i would be happy to make a run of these if there is enough interest. >they would sell at about 35.00 a pair, and shipping would be between 12.00 and 15.00 depending on where you live. >any interest? >Frank > >** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Thu Jun 14 10:14:26 2012 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2012 09:14:26 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] spitfire wheel spacers In-Reply-To: <1339690023.33521.YahooMailNeo@web29404.mail.ird.yahoo.com> References: <1339689304.33239.YahooMailNeo@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <1339690023.33521.YahooMailNeo@web29404.mail.ird.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1339690466.79349.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Jonmac i think if you go further forward on Bob's pages you will find him replacing just about everything on his car. its a real wolf in wolfs clothes. i seem to recall Bob went to 4 pot calipers too. Bob? From: John Macartney To: Frank Fisher ; Triumphs Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2012 9:07 AM Subject: Re: [TR] spitfire wheel spacers Really interesting pix showing Frank's 'specials'. Towards the bottom where you come to wheel spacers, that brake disc looks more than a little 'tired.' Jonmac From: Frank Fisher To: Triumphs Sent: Thursday, 14 June 2012, 16:55 Subject: [TR] spitfire wheel spacers >i was approached today by one of our spitfire/GT6 brothers looking for the high performance wheel spacers like the ones i made for Bob D. >http://www.tr6.danielsonfamily.org/FrankFisher.htm >i would be happy to make a run of these if there is enough interest. >they would sell at about 35.00 a pair, and shipping would be between 12.00 and 15.00 depending on where you live. >any interest? >Frank > >** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk From brad.kahler at 141.com Thu Jun 14 12:50:22 2012 From: brad.kahler at 141.com (brad.kahler at 141.com) Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2012 14:50:22 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] TR4 door mirrors Message-ID: <1339699822.955416770@mail.141.com> Listers, My TR4 has the bullet style door mirrors that are basically worthless in use. Any suggestions as to which mirrors to use to improve side vision? Thanks, Brad From brad.kahler at 141.com Thu Jun 14 12:51:04 2012 From: brad.kahler at 141.com (brad.kahler at 141.com) Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2012 14:51:04 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] TR4 steering rack rebuild Message-ID: <1339699864.36397095@mail.141.com> Listers, I was noticing some slop in my steering rack so last night I pulled it from the car to check it out. What I found was the ball sockets had upwards of .035" clearance each. It was noticeable in that you could push the tie rod towards the and feel the spring give that is located inside the ball joint. I dismantled the ball joints, removed some shims and reassembled until there was just a very small noticeable inward movement. Maybe .005" total per ball joint. I guess my question is, is this to tight? The ball moves smoothly with no binding. Comments? Brad 1963 TR4 From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Jun 14 14:31:52 2012 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2012 16:31:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] spitfire wheel spacers In-Reply-To: <1339690466.79349.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1339689304.33239.YahooMailNeo@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com><1339690023.33521.YahooMailNeo@web29404.mail.ird.yahoo.com> <1339690466.79349.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <836E99E9D39842BFA4F9CD9CC715C2AC@BobPC> The "tired" calipers were the original stock ones replaced by rebuilt one from Ted @ TSI and since then replaced again with these beauties from Goodparts........ :-) http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/WilwoodCalipers.htm Bob Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 1975 TR6 with: Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff & CVJs -----Original Message----- From: Frank Fisher Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2012 12:14 PM To: John Macartney ; Triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] spitfire wheel spacers Jonmac i think if you go further forward on Bob's pages you will find him replacing just about everything on his car. its a real wolf in wolfs clothes. i seem to recall Bob went to 4 pot calipers too. Bob? From: John Macartney To: Frank Fisher ; Triumphs Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2012 9:07 AM Subject: Re: [TR] spitfire wheel spacers Really interesting pix showing Frank's 'specials'. Towards the bottom where you come to wheel spacers, that brake disc looks more than a little 'tired.' Jonmac From: Frank Fisher To: Triumphs Sent: Thursday, 14 June 2012, 16:55 Subject: [TR] spitfire wheel spacers >i was approached today by one of our spitfire/GT6 brothers looking for the high performance wheel spacers like the ones i made for Bob D. >http://www.tr6.danielsonfamily.org/FrankFisher.htm >i would be happy to make a run of these if there is enough interest. >they would sell at about 35.00 a pair, and shipping would be between 12.00 and 15.00 depending on where you live. >any interest? >Frank > >** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Thu Jun 14 14:45:37 2012 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2012 13:45:37 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] spitfire wheel spacers In-Reply-To: <836E99E9D39842BFA4F9CD9CC715C2AC@BobPC> References: <1339689304.33239.YahooMailNeo@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com><1339690023.33521.YahooMailNeo@web29404.mail.ird.yahoo.com> <1339690466.79349.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <836E99E9D39842BFA4F9CD9CC715C2AC@BobPC> Message-ID: <1339706737.14273.YahooMailNeo@web120201.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> i knew you had gone to some form of 4 pot. there so sexy i could make a calender out of the pictures Frank From: Bob Danielson <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> To: Frank Fisher ; John Macartney ; Triumphs Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2012 1:31 PM Subject: Re: [TR] spitfire wheel spacers The "tired" calipers were the original stock ones replaced by rebuilt one from Ted @ TSI and since then replaced again with these beauties from Goodparts........ :-) http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/WilwoodCalipers.htm Bob Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 1975 TR6 with: Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff & CVJs -----Original Message----- From: Frank Fisher Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2012 12:14 PM To: John Macartney ; Triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] spitfire wheel spacers Jonmac i think if you go further forward on Bob's pages you will find him replacing just about everything on his car. its a real wolf in wolfs clothes. i seem to recall Bob went to 4 pot calipers too. Bob? From: John Macartney To: Frank Fisher ; Triumphs Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2012 9:07 AM Subject: Re: [TR] spitfire wheel spacers Really interesting pix showing Frank's 'specials'. Towards the bottom where you come to wheel spacers, that brake disc looks more than a little 'tired.' Jonmac From: Frank Fisher To: Triumphs Sent: Thursday, 14 June 2012, 16:55 Subject: [TR] spitfire wheel spacers >i was approached today by one of our spitfire/GT6 brothers looking for the high performance wheel spacers like the ones i made for Bob D. >http://www.tr6.danielsonfamily.org/FrankFisher.htm >i would be happy to make a run of these if there is enough interest. >they would sell at about 35.00 a pair, and shipping would be between 12.00 and 15.00 depending on where you live. >any interest? >Frank > >** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From McGaheyRx at aol.com Thu Jun 14 16:19:01 2012 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (Jack Mc) Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2012 18:19:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] spitfire wheel spacers In-Reply-To: <836E99E9D39842BFA4F9CD9CC715C2AC@BobPC> References: <1339689304.33239.YahooMailNeo@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <1339690023.33521.YahooMailNeo@web29404.mail.ird.yahoo.com> <1339690466.79349.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <836E99E9D39842BFA4F9CD9CC715C2AC@BobPC> Message-ID: Actually it was the disc that looked tired - tired from a lot of scoring. Cheers, Jack Mc Sent from my iPad On Jun 14, 2012, at 4:31 PM, "Bob Danielson" <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote: > The "tired" calipers were the original stock ones replaced by rebuilt one from Ted @ TSI and since then replaced again with these beauties from Goodparts........ :-) http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/WilwoodCalipers.htm > > Bob > > > Bob Danielson > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > 1975 TR6 with: > Throttle Body Injection > Toyota 5 Speed > Nissan Diff & CVJs > > -----Original Message----- From: Frank Fisher > Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2012 12:14 PM > To: John Macartney ; Triumphs > Subject: Re: [TR] spitfire wheel spacers > > Jonmac > i think if you go further forward on Bob's pages you will find him > replacing just about everything on his car. > its a real wolf in wolfs clothes. > i seem to recall Bob went to 4 pot calipers too. Bob? > > From: John Macartney > > To: Frank Fisher ; > Triumphs > Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2012 9:07 AM > Subject: Re: [TR] spitfire wheel spacers > > > Really interesting pix showing > Frank's 'specials'. Towards the bottom where you come to wheel spacers, that > brake disc looks more than a little 'tired.' > > Jonmac From: Frank Fisher > > To: Triumphs > Sent: Thursday, > 14 June 2012, 16:55 > Subject: [TR] spitfire wheel spacers > > >> i was approached > today by one of our spitfire/GT6 brothers looking for the high performance > wheel spacers like the ones i made for Bob D. >> http://www.tr6.danielsonfamily.org/FrankFisher.htm >> i would be happy to make > a run of these if there is enough interest. >> they would sell at about 35.00 a > pair, and shipping would be between 12.00 and 15.00 depending on where you > live. >> any interest? >> Frank >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: > http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: > http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mcgaheyrx at aol.com From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Jun 14 18:54:03 2012 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2012 20:54:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] spitfire wheel spacers In-Reply-To: References: <1339689304.33239.YahooMailNeo@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <1339690023.33521.YahooMailNeo@web29404.mail.ird.yahoo.com> <1339690466.79349.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <836E99E9D39842BFA4F9CD9CC715C2AC@BobPC> Message-ID: <3ABDA1D88AB84926A027B788B73B615A@BobPC> That's been replaced too........... with the Wilwood conversion. Bob -----Original Message----- From: Jack Mc Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2012 6:19 PM To: Bob Danielson Cc: Frank Fisher ; John Macartney ; Triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] spitfire wheel spacers Actually it was the disc that looked tired - tired from a lot of scoring. Cheers, Jack Mc Sent from my iPad On Jun 14, 2012, at 4:31 PM, "Bob Danielson" <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote: > The "tired" calipers were the original stock ones replaced by rebuilt one > from Ted @ TSI and since then replaced again with these beauties from > Goodparts........ :-) http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/WilwoodCalipers.htm > > Bob > > > Bob Danielson > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > 1975 TR6 with: > Throttle Body Injection > Toyota 5 Speed > Nissan Diff & CVJs > > -----Original Message----- From: Frank Fisher > Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2012 12:14 PM > To: John Macartney ; Triumphs > Subject: Re: [TR] spitfire wheel spacers > > Jonmac > i think if you go further forward on Bob's pages you will find him > replacing just about everything on his car. > its a real wolf in wolfs clothes. > i seem to recall Bob went to 4 pot calipers too. Bob? > > From: John Macartney > > To: Frank Fisher ; > Triumphs > Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2012 9:07 AM > Subject: Re: [TR] spitfire wheel spacers > > > Really interesting pix showing > Frank's 'specials'. Towards the bottom where you come to wheel spacers, > that > brake disc looks more than a little 'tired.' > > Jonmac From: Frank Fisher > > To: Triumphs > Sent: Thursday, > 14 June 2012, 16:55 > Subject: [TR] spitfire wheel spacers > > >> i was approached > today by one of our spitfire/GT6 brothers looking for the high performance > wheel spacers like the ones i made for Bob D. >> http://www.tr6.danielsonfamily.org/FrankFisher.htm >> i would be happy to make > a run of these if there is enough interest. >> they would sell at about 35.00 a > pair, and shipping would be between 12.00 and 15.00 depending on where you > live. >> any interest? >> Frank >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: > http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: > http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mcgaheyrx at aol.com From dave at ranteer.com Thu Jun 14 20:48:16 2012 From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave) Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2012 21:48:16 -0500 Subject: [TR] completely OT Message-ID: my daughter is definitely a car girl. as a background, shebs a rising junior in college, home for the summer working at a pet store and taking courses at a local community college. today in class the teacher brings in her phone and shows around a picture of a car. she says she likes it because its kind of retro. no one knows what it is until they show it to my daughter. one glance b thatbs a Prowler! none of the guys had any idea From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Thu Jun 14 09:30:47 2012 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2012 08:30:47 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] vacum advance In-Reply-To: <1339639885.25371.YahooMailNeo@web65515.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <1339639885.25371.YahooMailNeo@web65515.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1339687847.60616.YahooMailNeo@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> yes, the vacuum advance is pretty important. why not just make a longer pipe? i think its just 1/8" copper Frank From: Gary Nafziger To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2012 7:11 PM Subject: [TR] vacum advance The lister that mentioned vacum advance reminded me of my issue with my tr-3. Is a functioning vacum (ok ok i can't spell for sh--)lol advance essential? I have a functioning unit on my distributor but have switched carbs so that my carb that's plumbed for the advance is the rear carb and I'm not sure the pipe will reach. (maybe a person could drill out the front carb to accept the pipe?) Just wondering. gary n. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From eoot at citlink.net Fri Jun 15 06:24:11 2012 From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot) Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2012 08:24:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] completely OT References: Message-ID: <7B56FA096BE049AF92B86109FCBE330A@Office> Brings a tear to the eye and makes a papa proud. And just in time for Fathers Day! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave" To: Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2012 10:48 PM Subject: [TR] completely OT > my daughter is definitely a car girl. > > as a background, shebs a rising junior in college, home for the summer > working at a pet store and taking courses at a local community college. > > today in class the teacher brings in her phone and shows around a picture > of a > car. she says she likes it because its kind of retro. no one knows what it > is > until they show it to my daughter. one glance b thatbs a Prowler! none > of > the guys had any idea > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/eoot at citlink.net From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Fri Jun 15 07:10:05 2012 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2012 09:10:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] vacum advance In-Reply-To: <1339687847.60616.YahooMailNeo@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1339639885.25371.YahooMailNeo@web65515.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> <1339687847.60616.YahooMailNeo@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Does it matter where you source your vacuum? On my strombergs, the vac line connects near the butterfly on the carb. Pulling vac from the manifold would seem to have different characteristics. I guess ot depends on the type of advance installed on your dizzy. From leejohn7 at gmail.com Fri Jun 15 11:28:51 2012 From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard) Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2012 10:28:51 -0700 Subject: [TR] 42 DCOEs in TR4 Message-ID: Hi all I'm trying to wrap my Webers with long 3 1/4 " air horns in air filters, something better than those little screen end mounts that only keep the the rocks out. K&N doesn't work...the ones designed for the DCOE's are too short - don't leave enough space for the mouths of the horns to suck air. Does anyone have a set of shorter horns lying around? I've got lots of good stuff for trade! (-: I've searched the Web 10 times over and can find nothing. Alternatively, has anyone fitted filters around horns of this length? Is there another filter brand that might work? Any other ideas? Many thanks JohnH From tjwakeman at gmail.com Fri Jun 15 12:28:25 2012 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2012 11:28:25 -0700 Subject: [TR] 42 DCOEs in TR4 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4FDB7EC9.5060007@gmail.com> On 6/15/12 10:28 AM, Lee&John Howard wrote: > Does anyone have a set of shorter horns lying around? I've got lots of good > stuff for trade! (-: I've searched the Web 10 times over and can find > nothing. > > Alternatively, has anyone fitted filters around horns of this length? Is > there another filter brand that might work? > > Any other ideas? http://www.borla.com/products/induction/AirHorn/AirHorn-FR.html Try itg for air filters http://www.itgairfilters.com Teriann From trguy75 at gmail.com Fri Jun 15 13:06:10 2012 From: trguy75 at gmail.com (Jim Henningsen) Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2012 15:06:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] P-Bomb In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <28B4B936-F0E4-499F-AF98-F39E4AFF9148@gmail.com> List: TRF has a special they just sent out in their weekly email for an additional $5 off your order if you can explain in one word what a P-Bomb is. There are all kinds of references on the Internet but I think it is supposed to be something related to the play a midsummers might dream. Any ideas out there? Jim Henningsen Ocala FL 62 TR4 From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Fri Jun 15 13:43:02 2012 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2012 12:43:02 -0700 Subject: [TR] P-Bomb In-Reply-To: <28B4B936-F0E4-499F-AF98-F39E4AFF9148@gmail.com> References: <28B4B936-F0E4-499F-AF98-F39E4AFF9148@gmail.com> Message-ID: *TRF P-BOMB PROMOTION-Begins Today and Ends on Midsummer Day, Traditionally Celebrated on June 21st in England and in Many Countries Around the World- Think of Shakespeare's Play, "A Midsummer Night's Dream" . Order $120.00 or more, Including Sale Prices, and Dolly Will Subtract $21.00 from Your Parts Total* . Explain "P-Bomb," and She Will Subtract an Additional $5.00-Use the Comments Field on Your Web Order-One Word Should Be Sufficient . P-Bomb Ends at Midnight June 21/22, 2012* Well I thought I knew what it meant but if I told Dolly in one word what it was I doubt she'd be too pleased or give me $5 off. Must be some other (British) connotation. G On Fri, Jun 15, 2012 at 12:06 PM, Jim Henningsen wrote: > List: > TRF has a special they just sent out in their weekly email for an > additional > $5 off your order if you can explain in one word what a P-Bomb is... From dixie4.wales at virgin.net Fri Jun 15 14:32:28 2012 From: dixie4.wales at virgin.net (Dixie4) Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2012 21:32:28 +0100 Subject: [TR] TR4 steering rack rebuild In-Reply-To: <1339699864.36397095@mail.141.com> References: <1339699864.36397095@mail.141.com> Message-ID: <7930E9C04450413D9FA6DBC5FB98CB13@AdrianPC> I would have no play at all. The rule of thumb in my experience is: With the tie rod end removed the inner joint within the gaiter should support the weight of the tie rod For example when lifted upwards it should stay in that position. If it drops too much play. I hope you used some Loctite on the threads when reassembling. Adrian TR4A CT64306 O Wales UK. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2012 7:51 PM Subject: [TR] TR4 steering rack rebuild > Listers, > > I was noticing some slop in my steering rack so last night I pulled > it from the car to check it out. What I found was the ball sockets had > upwards of .035" clearance each. It was noticeable in that you could push > the > tie rod towards the and feel the spring give that is located inside the > ball > joint. > > I dismantled the ball joints, removed some shims and reassembled until > there was just a very small noticeable inward movement. Maybe .005" total > per > ball joint. > > I guess my question is, is this to tight? The ball moves > smoothly with no binding. > > Comments? > > Brad > 1963 TR4 > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dixie4.wales at virgin.net From brad.kahler at 141.com Fri Jun 15 14:35:33 2012 From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2012 16:35:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 steering rack rebuild In-Reply-To: <7930E9C04450413D9FA6DBC5FB98CB13@AdrianPC> References: <1339699864.36397095@mail.141.com> <7930E9C04450413D9FA6DBC5FB98CB13@AdrianPC> Message-ID: With no shims installed the tie rods bind. With my thinnest shims installed I get just a little bit of clearance. After looking closer I think it is less than .005", just hard to measure. I'm going to install and see how it feels. Of course I need to get the new wheels and tires installed first so it will be a few weeks before I can do a test run. Thanks, Brad 1963 TR4 On Fri, Jun 15, 2012 at 4:32 PM, Dixie4 wrote: > I would have no play at all. > > The rule of thumb in my experience is: > > With the tie rod end removed the inner joint within the gaiter should > support the weight of the tie rod For example when lifted upwards it > should stay in that position. If it drops too much play. > > I hope you used some Loctite on the threads when reassembling. > > Adrian TR4A CT64306 O > Wales UK. > > ----- Original Message ----- From: > To: > Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2012 7:51 PM > Subject: [TR] TR4 steering rack rebuild > > > Listers, >> >> I was noticing some slop in my steering rack so last night I pulled >> it from the car to check it out. What I found was the ball sockets had >> upwards of .035" clearance each. It was noticeable in that you could >> push the >> tie rod towards the and feel the spring give that is located inside the >> ball >> joint. >> >> I dismantled the ball joints, removed some shims and reassembled until >> there was just a very small noticeable inward movement. Maybe .005" >> total per >> ball joint. >> >> I guess my question is, is this to tight? The ball moves >> smoothly with no binding. >> >> Comments? >> >> Brad >> 1963 TR4 >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** >> options/triumphs/dixie4.wales@**virgin.net From cliff_hansen at earthlink.net Fri Jun 15 14:42:00 2012 From: cliff_hansen at earthlink.net (Cliff Hansen) Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2012 14:42:00 -0600 (GMT-06:00) Subject: [TR] P-Bomb Message-ID: <14545897.1339792920386.JavaMail.root@elwamui-hybrid.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Its "Puck", who is a character in 'A Midsummer Night's Dream' Why P-bomb? I'll let you figure that out if its not obvious. Cliff -----Original Message----- >From: Geo Hahn >Sent: Jun 15, 2012 1:43 PM >To: Jim Henningsen >Cc: Triumph List >Subject: Re: [TR] P-Bomb > >*TRF P-BOMB PROMOTION-Begins Today and Ends on Midsummer Day, Traditionally > Celebrated on June 21st in England and in Many Countries Around the >World- > Think of Shakespeare's Play, "A Midsummer Night's Dream" > . Order $120.00 or more, Including Sale Prices, and Dolly Will Subtract > $21.00 from Your Parts Total* > . Explain "P-Bomb," and She Will Subtract an Additional $5.00-Use the > Comments Field on Your Web Order-One Word Should Be Sufficient > . P-Bomb Ends at Midnight June 21/22, 2012* > >Well I thought I knew what it meant but if I told Dolly in one word what it >was I doubt she'd be too pleased or give me $5 off. > >Must be some other (British) connotation. > >G > >On Fri, Jun 15, 2012 at 12:06 PM, Jim Henningsen wrote: > >> List: >> TRF has a special they just sent out in their weekly email for an >> additional >> $5 off your order if you can explain in one word what a P-Bomb is... > >** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cliff_hansen at earthlink.net From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jun 15 15:08:54 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2012 14:08:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] vacum advance In-Reply-To: References: <1339639885.25371.YahooMailNeo@web65515.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> <1339687847.60616.YahooMailNeo@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <021a01cd4b3b$12dc17e0$389447a0$@rr.com> > Does it matter where you source your vacuum? Yes. > On my strombergs, the vac > line connects near the butterfly on the carb. On the top or bottom? On the later ZS carbs, the bottom fitting (usually only on the rear carb) is for the vacuum retard. The port acts the exact opposite of the advance port, supplying manifold vacuum to the distributor only when the throttle is fully closed. As soon as the throttle opens, the port no longer supplies vacuum to the distributor. H-series SUs have the advance port on the bottom (and AFAIK none of them have the retard port unless someone has added it). One way to tell the difference is to remove the carb and look into the manifold end with the throttle closed. If you can see where the port opens into the bore, it's a retard port. -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jun 15 15:17:13 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2012 14:17:13 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 steering rack rebuild In-Reply-To: <7930E9C04450413D9FA6DBC5FB98CB13@AdrianPC> References: <1339699864.36397095@mail.141.com> <7930E9C04450413D9FA6DBC5FB98CB13@AdrianPC> Message-ID: <022201cd4b3c$3c46b440$b4d41cc0$@rr.com> > With the tie rod end removed the inner joint within the gaiter should > support the weight of the tie rod The factory workshop manual calls for .002" of clearance. -- Randall From brad.kahler at 141.com Fri Jun 15 15:32:10 2012 From: brad.kahler at 141.com (brad.kahler at 141.com) Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2012 17:32:10 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Mystery seat tracks Message-ID: <1339795930.924732146@mail.141.com> Listers, Some time ago I removed these seat tracks from my TR4 and installed the correct style. I have never seen this style before and would like to sell them but I have no idea what they originally came from. They are in decent shape. Anyone recognize them?! http://campkahler.com/files/seat-track-1.jpg http://campkahler.com/files/seat-track-2.jpg http://campkahler.com/files/seat-track-3.jpg http://campkahler.com/files/seat-track-4.jpg Thanks! Brad From brad.kahler at 141.com Fri Jun 15 19:36:30 2012 From: brad.kahler at 141.com (brad.kahler at 141.com) Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2012 21:36:30 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Spitfire bonnets & some frames for sale Message-ID: <1339810590.562418087@mail.141.com> I've got three different spitfire bonnets for sale. Two of them are Mk1/Mk2 bonnets that have seen better days but are still to good to send to the crusher. I also have one Mk3 bonnet that is in overall pretty decent condition. If interested send me an email and we can go over specifics. Oh yeah, also have one Mk3 frame and a GT6 frame available as well. Thanks, Brad 1963 TR4 From zoboherald at aol.com Fri Jun 15 19:46:18 2012 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace) Date: Fri, 15 Jun 2012 21:46:18 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Mystery seat tracks In-Reply-To: <1339795930.924732146@mail.141.com> References: <1339795930.924732146@mail.141.com> Message-ID: <8CF1978F517888C-28AC-442C@webmail-m164.sysops.aol.com> They bear a passing resemblance to those from a Herald...but not quite. Can you measure hole centers front-to-back and side-to-side? --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us -----Original Message----- From: brad.kahler To: triumphs Sent: Fri, Jun 15, 2012 5:32 pm Subject: [TR] Mystery seat tracks Listers, Some time ago I removed these seat tracks from my TR4 and installed the correct style. I have never seen this style before and would like to sell them but I have no idea what they originally came from. They are in decent shape. Anyone recognize them?! From alansalvy at gmail.com Sat Jun 16 13:23:03 2012 From: alansalvy at gmail.com (alan salvatore) Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2012 15:23:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] Moss TR6 Fuel Pump Reproduction Message-ID: When to install new Moss Fuel Pump 377-061 on a TR6 today. Could not get it to accept the line in the outlet opening. Called Moss, they said they had not had any problems with that pump. Turns out the original pump accepted two different size pipes ; larger inlet pipe and smaller for the outlet pipe. So it took two different size pipes. The Moss pump has the same larger size on both the inlet and outlet. So it will only accept the larger pipe, the smaller pipe will go right through and not bottom out. So even if you remake a fuel line in the larger size to go to the carbs that fuel line won't match up to the fuel line to the carbs. Great price on a nice looking pump except for that one little major detail. Al From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Sat Jun 16 14:56:06 2012 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2012 13:56:06 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] (no subject) Message-ID: <1339880166.7133.YahooMailNeo@web39402.mail.mud.yahoo.com> http://danielhilly.dreamhosters.com/wp-content/themes/default/mndlkfs.html?kjc=jc.kffn&nkn=kj.jyk&kk=ujeg From carlsereda at aol.com Sat Jun 16 15:27:13 2012 From: carlsereda at aol.com (Carl Sereda) Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2012 17:27:13 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 5, Issue 257 Message-ID: <8CF1A1DEE2A670C-1E70-5CB3@angweb-usm004.sysops.aol.com> Brad, The TR4/4A Factory Manual specifies .002" clearance for ball-ends on steering rack, and has the detailed instructions. I'd say you made a huge improvement and you're good to go. A more challenging area might be the pinion gear, on rack. The pinion usually wears in 'driving straight ahead' position. You can't readily toss the rack or get really good pinions, but you can flip the pinion to opposite side where the teeth are less worn making straight ahead driving more nuanced by reducing slop.. I ended up buying a MossUK TR4A-6 pinion a few years ago and was not impressed, but it is slightly better than what I had. Carl '63 TR4 since '74 > I was noticing some slop in my steering rack so last night I pulled > it from the car to check it out. What I found was the ball sockets had > upwards of .035" clearance each. It was noticeable in that you could push > the > tie rod towards the and feel the spring give that is located inside the > ball > joint. > > I dismantled the ball joints, removed some shims and reassembled until > there was just a very small noticeable inward movement. Maybe .005" total > per > ball joint. From brad.kahler at 141.com Sat Jun 16 17:00:24 2012 From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2012 19:00:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 5, Issue 257 In-Reply-To: <8CF1A1DEE2A670C-1E70-5CB3@angweb-usm004.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CF1A1DEE2A670C-1E70-5CB3@angweb-usm004.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Carl, Good tip on turning the rack end for end. As near as I can tell the rack and pinion itself seem to be ok. I will know more once the new tires and wheels are installed. Right now I'm running old wire wheels with 20 year old tires. Not the best combination for determining quality of the front end! Brad On Sat, Jun 16, 2012 at 5:27 PM, Carl Sereda wrote: > Brad, > The TR4/4A Factory Manual specifies .002" clearance for ball-ends on > steering > rack, and has the detailed instructions. I'd say you made a > huge improvement and you're good to go. A more challenging area might be > the > pinion gear, on rack. The pinion usually wears in 'driving > straight ahead' position. You can't readily toss the rack or get really > good > pinions, but you can flip the pinion to opposite side where the teeth > are less worn making straight ahead driving more nuanced by reducing > slop.. I > ended up buying a MossUK TR4A-6 pinion a few years ago > and was not impressed, but it is slightly better than what I had. > Carl > '63 TR4 since '74 > > > > > I was noticing some slop in my steering rack so last night I pulled > > it from the car to check it out. What I found was the ball sockets had > > upwards of .035" clearance each. It was noticeable in that you could > push > > the > > tie rod towards the and feel the spring give that is located inside the > > ball > > joint. > > > > I dismantled the ball joints, removed some shims and reassembled until > > there was just a very small noticeable inward movement. Maybe .005" > total > > per > > ball joint. > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/brad.kahler at 141.com From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Jun 16 18:48:08 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2012 17:48:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] Moss TR6 Fuel Pump Reproduction In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <028d01cd4c22$dda109d0$0601a8c0@randall> > The Moss pump has the same larger size on both the inlet and > outlet. I don't know if this applies to the TR6 pump or not; but on the TR3A-4A the pump inlet and outlet fittings were the same size but the lines were different sizes. (5/16" inlet, 1/4" outlet). This magic was accomplished with a special fitting nut, that screwed into the 5/16" port but took a 1/4" line and compression sleeve. The TR6 pump isn't quite the same, but it looks similar enough that I'll bet it used the same setup. -- Randall From dave at ranteer.com Sat Jun 16 20:45:32 2012 From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave) Date: Sat, 16 Jun 2012 21:45:32 -0500 Subject: [TR] 75 spit steering Message-ID: <9E5899AD53694F0FBC1DD1EC0BB11EA3@ranteer.local> it seems to wander a little. if Ibm turning right then left there is a dead space in the middle where nothing happens. going straight there is a little play in the steering. this car sat for a few years (I think less than 5) and I just acquired it and am getting it back on the road, so I canbt say specifically when it started. as I drive it a little more each time Ibm discovering new (broken) things. Ibm wondering if anyone can point me in the right direction to fix this. From alansalvy at gmail.com Sun Jun 17 05:29:51 2012 From: alansalvy at gmail.com (alan salvatore) Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2012 07:29:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] Moss TR6 Fuel Pump Reproduction In-Reply-To: <028d01cd4c22$dda109d0$0601a8c0@randall> References: <028d01cd4c22$dda109d0$0601a8c0@randall> Message-ID: Thats the same on the TR6 pump. On the inside of the pump the lines bottom out on the inside of the housing so the compression sleeve will collapse when the fitting nut is screwed down. On the reproduction, they made the inside of the housing the same 5/16 on both sides so that the 1/4 pipe passes through it and the compression sleeve can't be compressed by the nut. Al On Sat, Jun 16, 2012 at 8:48 PM, Randall wrote: > > The Moss pump has the same larger size on both the inlet and > > outlet. > > I don't know if this applies to the TR6 pump or not; but on the TR3A-4A the > pump inlet and outlet fittings were the same size but the lines were > different sizes. (5/16" inlet, 1/4" outlet). This magic was accomplished > with a special fitting nut, that screwed into the 5/16" port but took a > 1/4" > line and compression sleeve. > > The TR6 pump isn't quite the same, but it looks similar enough that I'll > bet > it used the same setup. > > -- Randall From terryrs at comcast.net Sun Jun 17 06:21:01 2012 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2012 12:21:01 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3 Door Seals In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1243077976.163217.1339935661612.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> I hate to think about it now, with such beautiful driving weather and my 3-A nearly completely sorted and driving like a dream. But. In October it's going to be "wicked" cold, and I have driven for years without door seals. I upgraded the heater, but no door seals. The draft is cold...and besides, rain comes in when I occassionally get caught in it. Thing is, I did buy the seals and used various contact cements to make them stay on. What's the trick? especially for the top one? Terry Smith, '59 TR3a TS 58667 New Hampshire From davewillner at pa.net Sun Jun 17 07:10:31 2012 From: davewillner at pa.net (davewillner) Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2012 09:10:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Door Seals References: <1243077976.163217.1339935661612.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <5D6B2D4DA92640BBB77C2C57911F651B@valued9cfc0b6f> Terry, There are clips that keep the two door seals in place, on the bottom and on the top/front. The seal on the door jamb you'll need to glue with a weather-stripping glue, I used a 3M extra strength, worked very well. Used a little tape to hold in place, but it does dry pretty quickly Dave Willner Stroudsburg PA 59 TR3A 70 MGB 70 BSA 441 VS ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2012 8:21 AM Subject: [TR] TR3 Door Seals >I hate to think about it now, with such beautiful driving weather and my >3-A nearly completely sorted and driving like a dream. > > But. > > In October it's going to be "wicked" cold, and I have driven for years > without door seals. I upgraded the heater, but no door seals. The draft > is cold...and besides, rain comes in when I occassionally get caught in > it. > > Thing is, I did buy the seals and used various contact cements to make > them stay on. > > What's the trick? especially for the top one? > > Terry Smith, '59 TR3a TS 58667 > New Hampshire > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/davewillner at pa.net From spamiam at comcast.net Sun Jun 17 07:11:49 2012 From: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2012 09:11:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] Testing ignition coil: what am I doing wrong???? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0F3E417CA9824ACDAC7524415453478E@I7Quad> I am trying to test a regular 12v ignition coil that is for my TR4A. I want to test it on the bench to eliminate other causes of no spark. I hooked the (+) terminal to a 12V battery, and hooked a coil wire to the HT side, and grounded the body of the plug. I then took a wire going from the (-) terminal of the coil and shorted the wire to ground, then broke the ground. I expected a big spark from the plug as I broke the ground, but got nothing. I did get some sparks from the ground wire when I broke the ground and a volt meter on the (-) terminal of the coil went from zero with the wire grounded to +12.5v when I broke the ground. I also tried a spark tester instead of the plug, but even a small gap, one for "small engines" had no spark. The voltmeter on the (+) side of the coil barely flickered when I made and broke the ground on the (-) side. It was reading 12.5V all the time on the (+) terminal. I took some old used spares and also got no spark. These old units could be bad, but as far as I know they are fine. What am I missing? I am on the digest version of the forum, so please feel free to reply directly to me too! -Tony From tr3a58 at verizon.net Sun Jun 17 07:30:20 2012 From: tr3a58 at verizon.net (Dean Tetterton) Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2012 09:30:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] 75 spit steering In-Reply-To: <9E5899AD53694F0FBC1DD1EC0BB11EA3@ranteer.local> References: <9E5899AD53694F0FBC1DD1EC0BB11EA3@ranteer.local> Message-ID: Dave Sounds like the steering rack mounts are loose or worn out. Stand by the drivers door and while looking at the steering rack and mounts, turn the wheel left and right. The rack should not shift in the mounts. If it does you need new rubber bushings or change to the solid mounts. Fairly easy fix. You do need to force the mounts toward the outside while tightening them. Dean On Jun 16, 2012, at 10:45 PM, Dave wrote: > it seems to wander a little. if Ibm turning right then left there is a dead > space in the middle where nothing happens. going straight there is a little > play in the steering. > > this car sat for a few years (I think less than 5) and I just acquired it and > am getting it back on the road, so I canbt say specifically when it started. > as I drive it a little more each time Ibm discovering new (broken) things. > > Ibm wondering if anyone can point me in the right direction to fix this. > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3a58 at verizon.net From spamiam at comcast.net Sun Jun 17 07:48:51 2012 From: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2012 09:48:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] Testing ignition coil: what am I doing wrong???? In-Reply-To: References: <0F3E417CA9824ACDAC7524415453478E@I7Quad> Message-ID: Dave >btw - coils rarely go bad. I agree. Testing the coil is actually part of a bigger testing process. The problem I am trying to solve is the lack of a spark on my TR7. It has a Delco distributor with the oddball Delco HEI ignition system. The car has been acting as if it has a weak spark, and I tested the spark with the spark gap tester. I got no spark. So I tested the HEI system and found it had good power and good ground. I have no good way to test the reluctor in the distributor (not that I know of, anyway), so I replaced the 4-pin ignition module with a new spare. Still no spark. So, I figured it could be the HEI coil or the reluctor. To prove which, I wanted to swap the HEI coil with a regular 12V coil, but the HEI coil is mounted with very short leads to the Delco electronic ignition unit. So, I decided to hook up the old HEI ignition module to a normal 12 volt coil separately. The module got mounted on a big heatsink, and the B terminal got +12v and also went to the (+) terminal of the 12V coil. The C terminal went to the (-) terminal of the coil. I hooked up the distributor's wire to the appropriate W & G terminals on the module. When cranking the engine I got no spark from the 12V test coil either! So I decided to see if I could get ANY spark from the test coil, hence my question posted earlier in which I found no spark that way either! I will check youtube for test procedures. -Tony -----Original Message----- From: Dave Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2012 9:18 AM To: spamiam at comcast.net Subject: Re: [TR] Testing ignition coil: what am I doing wrong???? go to youtube, and search test ignition coil. moss motors has a very good one; I bet john twist of university motors also has one; and I am sure there are others. you can also test with an ohmmeter; it should read either 1.5 or 3.0 ohms. the coil is not grounded per se. you have to use the leads. btw - coils rarely go bad. From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jun 17 08:29:16 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2012 07:29:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] Moss TR6 Fuel Pump Reproduction In-Reply-To: References: <028d01cd4c22$dda109d0$0601a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <02dc01cd4c95$939954f0$0601a8c0@randall> > On the reproduction, they made the inside of the housing the > same 5/16 on > both sides so that the 1/4 pipe passes through it and the compression > sleeve can't be compressed by the nut. I must be misunderstanding you then. That was exactly my point, both sides of the pump housing are designed for (and will work with) 5/16" line. The 1/4" line will rattle around in the hole before you install the nut (the nut has a 1/4" bore so it locates the line radially). But the 1/4" compression sleeve (which was also a special, larger than common sleeves today) will not pass into the 5/16" inside bore, so the special nut would compress it. At the time I went through this, neither the special nut nor the special sleeve were available new so I made an extra-long nut that would reach far enough in to compress a standard sleeve. Others used other solutions, for example Scott Suhring wrote about grafting two sleeves together http://goo.gl/t4zWe I've read that TRF now offers the proper compression sleeve, but haven't ordered one for myself yet. -- Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jun 17 08:37:52 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2012 07:37:52 -0700 Subject: [TR] 75 spit steering In-Reply-To: <9E5899AD53694F0FBC1DD1EC0BB11EA3@ranteer.local> References: <9E5899AD53694F0FBC1DD1EC0BB11EA3@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <02dd01cd4c96$c75abb70$0601a8c0@randall> (Didn't see any replies to this, so I'll take a shot at it) > it seems to wander a little. The wander could be many things; fix the play in the steering first and then see if there are other issues. > if Ibm turning right then left there is a dead > space in the middle where nothing happens. going straight there is a little > play in the steering. > Ibm wondering if anyone can point me in the right direction > to fix this. There are many places where it could be, so you'll need to start with some investigation. Put the car up on ramps (or just big blocks of wood), then have a helper move the steering wheel back and forth while you watch to see where the play is. Most common perhaps is outer tie rod ends, but it could also be the inner ends (inside the boots), or between the rack and pinion. Less likely but still possible would be the joints in the steering column, or even the steering wheel loose on the shaft. Could also be a problem with the front suspension. -- Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jun 17 08:57:28 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2012 07:57:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] Testing ignition coil: what am I doing wrong???? In-Reply-To: <0F3E417CA9824ACDAC7524415453478E@I7Quad> References: <0F3E417CA9824ACDAC7524415453478E@I7Quad> Message-ID: <02de01cd4c99$84423090$0601a8c0@randall> > I did get some > sparks from the > ground wire when I broke the ground Try adding a condenser to the circuit. Also make sure there is nothing on the secondary side that could bleed high voltage to ground (like a glazed spark plug). The problem may be the way you are breaking the primary circuit (those sparks are drawing energy out of the coil), but I'd try the condenser first. Delco HEI used different kinds of pickups. If it just has two terminals, then it is a simple inductor coil. According to my GM book, the coil DC resistance should be between 500 and 1500 ohms; and infinite from either lead to ground. If it has 3 terminals, it may be a Hall effect transistor. There is a test procedure given, but it requires applying 12v and a magnetic field to the pickup. I also thought coil failures were relatively rare, but I've had 3 of them on my TR3 in the past 3 years; and the HEI coil on my GM car has been replaced several times as well. -- Randall From spamiam at comcast.net Sun Jun 17 09:29:55 2012 From: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2012 11:29:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] Testing ignition coil: what am I doing wrong???? In-Reply-To: <02de01cd4c99$84423090$0601a8c0@randall> References: <0F3E417CA9824ACDAC7524415453478E@I7Quad> <02de01cd4c99$84423090$0601a8c0@randall> Message-ID: Randall, I thin you hit the nail on the head. I was not getting clean enough switching. I put a condenser across the coil terminals and used a spare set of points to do the switching and I got a good spark from the 2 coils I tested. I put an ohmmeter on the 2 wire reluctor connector and got 800 ohms and it did not seem to change as I wiggled the wire. I did not check the resistance to engine ground. I will have to check that. Now to go back and check the presence of a spark on the same coil when firing it from the HEI module. My TR7 HEI unit has a capacitor (condenser) on it. I suppose it is possible that it is failing. Do you know if the HEI system requires a condenser? I will continue to fiddle with the TR7 today. I have had a coil fail once. It was an old 1966 original to my TR4A. It may simply have failed from old age, but I suspect that it was killed by my sparkplug wires. I made the mistake of using modern carbon core wires with the old original type of cap which spears the conductor. With motion, I think the connection of the spear to the carbon conductor became high resistance or intermittent. I think that this caused very high voltages to build up in all the HT side. I think the insulation broke down in the coil due to these excessively high voltages. I think that those same transients got into my electrics and palyed havok there too. My old original voltage stabilizer failed, as did a transistor replacement! I now use copper core wires when I use the original type cap for show, and I use the MGB version of the distributor cap with magnecore wires for actual driving. I also have a Pertronics on the TR4A, but I am considering switching to using a Boyer-Brandsen transistorized switching unit with points. The magnet hub of the Pertronics does not fit all that well, and causes the rotor to not seat fully. -Tony -----Original Message----- From: Randall Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2012 10:57 AM To: spamiam at comcast.net ; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [TR] Testing ignition coil: what am I doing wrong???? > I did get some > sparks from the > ground wire when I broke the ground Try adding a condenser to the circuit. Also make sure there is nothing on the secondary side that could bleed high voltage to ground (like a glazed spark plug). The problem may be the way you are breaking the primary circuit (those sparks are drawing energy out of the coil), but I'd try the condenser first. Delco HEI used different kinds of pickups. If it just has two terminals, then it is a simple inductor coil. According to my GM book, the coil DC resistance should be between 500 and 1500 ohms; and infinite from either lead to ground. If it has 3 terminals, it may be a Hall effect transistor. There is a test procedure given, but it requires applying 12v and a magnetic field to the pickup. I also thought coil failures were relatively rare, but I've had 3 of them on my TR3 in the past 3 years; and the HEI coil on my GM car has been replaced several times as well. -- Randall ----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2012.0.2180 / Virus Database: 2433/5075 - Release Date: 06/17/12 From spamiam at comcast.net Sun Jun 17 10:36:00 2012 From: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2012 12:36:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] Testing ignition coil: what am I doing wrong???? In-Reply-To: <02de01cd4c99$84423090$0601a8c0@randall> References: <0F3E417CA9824ACDAC7524415453478E@I7Quad> <02de01cd4c99$84423090$0601a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <63B70BF679084DB6A18CE03D743A881D@I7Quad> After all that, when I again tested the HEI system on the car it worked, and appears to be fine. It still required starting fluid, but it was improved. I have no idea why it worked this time and I had no spark when I tested it the same way yesterday. Something changed, but I donbt know what it might be. The connectors con go on only one way and as far as I know, they were right! -Tony -----Original Message----- From: Randall Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2012 10:57 AM To: spamiam at comcast.net ; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [TR] Testing ignition coil: what am I doing wrong???? > I did get some > sparks from the > ground wire when I broke the ground Try adding a condenser to the circuit. Also make sure there is nothing on the secondary side that could bleed high voltage to ground (like a glazed spark plug). The problem may be the way you are breaking the primary circuit (those sparks are drawing energy out of the coil), but I'd try the condenser first. Delco HEI used different kinds of pickups. If it just has two terminals, then it is a simple inductor coil. According to my GM book, the coil DC resistance should be between 500 and 1500 ohms; and infinite from either lead to ground. If it has 3 terminals, it may be a Hall effect transistor. There is a test procedure given, but it requires applying 12v and a magnetic field to the pickup. I also thought coil failures were relatively rare, but I've had 3 of them on my TR3 in the past 3 years; and the HEI coil on my GM car has been replaced several times as well. -- Randall From Chip19474 at aol.com Sun Jun 17 11:33:38 2012 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2012 13:33:38 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Car Wax Alert Message-ID: <2530.47e836af.3d0f6ef2@aol.com> List, I just thought I'd pass along some feedback on a new wax product I tried from Meguiars. It's called Ultimate Liquid Wax (16 oz container).....I did not have good results. It went on very nicely but was very, very difficult to remove after it hazed because of streaking. So difficult that it bordered on downright annoying. The car was in the shade, paint was cool, outside temp 70 degrees, moderate humidity......a picture perfect day for waxing. I wound up finishing the car by applying the wax then almost immediately removing it. If this were a $6.00 can of wax, I'd probably just toss it and try something else but this stuff is marketed as Meguiar's "most advanced wax" so it cost me over $20 with tax. I did contact Meguiar's for some sort of resolution. I'll even send the unused bottle back to them for testing - maybe it's a bad batch?? But, maybe all of this synthetic, hydrophobic, iso-polymer, upper vortex, mumbo jumbo new stuff isn't all that it's cracked up to be!!?? Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jun 17 11:36:11 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2012 10:36:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] Testing ignition coil: what am I doing wrong???? In-Reply-To: References: <0F3E417CA9824ACDAC7524415453478E@I7Quad> <02de01cd4c99$84423090$0601a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <030301cd4caf$afec9e40$0601a8c0@randall> > My TR7 HEI unit has a capacitor (condenser) on it. I suppose > it is possible > that it is failing. Do you know if the HEI system requires a > condenser? As far as I know, it does not. According to the book, the condenser is only for radio noise suppression. > My old > original voltage > stabilizer failed, as did a transistor replacement! IMO the original would not likely be affected by transients. Internally it is just a heater, and when the heater gets hot, it interrupts the power. But the solid state version could have been. On a side note, all of the instructions I've seen for electronic conversions in an original VS box say nothing about bypass capacitors. But I found that mine would not regulate properly without them (likely indicating it was oscillating at high frequency). -- Randall From spamiam at comcast.net Sun Jun 17 12:55:52 2012 From: spamiam at comcast.net (Anthony Rhodes) Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2012 14:55:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] Testing ignition coil: what am I doing wrong???? In-Reply-To: <030301cd4caf$afec9e40$0601a8c0@randall> References: <0F3E417CA9824ACDAC7524415453478E@I7Quad> <02de01cd4c99$84423090$0601a8c0@randall> <030301cd4caf$afec9e40$0601a8c0@randall> Message-ID: The failed original stabilizer had burned through some of the fine wire wire coil. I attributed it to excessive voltage, but it was 37 years old so it could have been time to fail I ended up making my own voltage stabilizer using an LM2940-10 and the required supporting parts on a homemade PCB all fitting in the same case as the original VS On Jun 17, 2012, at 1:36 PM, "Randall" wrote: >> My TR7 HEI unit has a capacitor (condenser) on it. I suppose >> it is possible >> that it is failing. Do you know if the HEI system requires a >> condenser? > > As far as I know, it does not. According to the book, the condenser is only > for radio noise suppression. > >> My old >> original voltage >> stabilizer failed, as did a transistor replacement! > > IMO the original would not likely be affected by transients. Internally it > is just a heater, and when the heater gets hot, it interrupts the power. > But the solid state version could have been. > > On a side note, all of the instructions I've seen for electronic conversions > in an original VS box say nothing about bypass capacitors. But I found that > mine would not regulate properly without them (likely indicating it was > oscillating at high frequency). > > -- Randall From trmarty at hotmail.com Sun Jun 17 13:39:19 2012 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2012 15:39:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] Car Wax Alert In-Reply-To: <2530.47e836af.3d0f6ef2@aol.com> References: <2530.47e836af.3d0f6ef2@aol.com> Message-ID: I don't know if this applies but... When Meguiars came out with their tech wax a few years ago I tried it with pretty much the same results. It was on a black vehicle and it left a very hazy/streaky/un-uniform shine. I put it on the shelf and moved on. Fast forward a couple of years and there was a Meguiars tech at a TRA event touting the virtues of this new fangled wax. After he got done I cornered him off to the side and explained my issues. He asked kindly if I followed the instructions and did the entire car before I attempted to wipe it off. Well no, I do a section at a time because it is easier to wipe off I replied. WRONG. He explained this new wax has to really dry up and if I let that happen it would really come off easy and would not streak. since then I have tried that method and it works much better. Marty ---------------------------------------- > From: Chip19474 at aol.com > Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2012 13:33:38 -0400 > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] Car Wax Alert > > List, > > I just thought I'd pass along some feedback on a new wax product I tried > from Meguiars. It's called Ultimate Liquid Wax (16 oz container).....I did > not have good results. > > It went on very nicely but was very, very difficult to remove after it > hazed because of streaking. So difficult that it bordered on downright > annoying. > > The car was in the shade, paint was cool, outside temp 70 degrees, moderate > humidity......a picture perfect day for waxing. > > I wound up finishing the car by applying the wax then almost immediately > removing it. If this were a $6.00 can of wax, I'd probably just toss it and > try something else but this stuff is marketed as Meguiar's "most advanced > wax" so it cost me over $20 with tax. > > I did contact Meguiar's for some sort of resolution. I'll even send the > unused bottle back to them for testing - maybe it's a bad batch?? > > But, maybe all of this synthetic, hydrophobic, iso-polymer, upper vortex, > mumbo jumbo new stuff isn't all that it's cracked up to be!!?? > > > Chip Krout > Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. > Skippack, PA > 1976 TR6 CF57822U > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums From marc.nederkoorn at home.nl Sun Jun 17 14:06:01 2012 From: marc.nederkoorn at home.nl (Marc Nederkoorn) Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2012 22:06:01 +0200 Subject: [TR] 4th of July in LA Message-ID: Listers, We (me and family) will be in LA or thereabout on July, 4th. It will be the start of a nice holliday! Question is where in LA, or probably any small city nearby (headed for San Diego after LA, driving a RV), can we enjoy some of the celebrations? We rather prefer some local festivities to get to know the American way, instead of a big, anonymus, parade. Any suggestions are welcome! Regards, Marc From terryrs at comcast.net Sun Jun 17 15:02:29 2012 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2012 21:02:29 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Break-In Oil Change: an observation and a question In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <147672621.174741.1339966949033.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> I've read all over the internet about various philosphies about when oil should be changed for the first time when breaking in a rebuilt engine like ours. I never used to think it mattered all that much if you put in a quality filter. Now put me in the 200 mile category. To be on the safe side this time, I did change the oil at the 200 mile mark. The car had been blowing huge plumes of oil smoke for the first 30 miles or so, then the rings settled in nicely. When I changed the 20-50 Valvoline racing oil, it was thin, black and had the oddest tendency to leave a smudge on the fingertips. What caused that? I'm suspecting that while the rings were unseated, gas was blowing by into the crank case. Even if this were the case, what is that black smudge that's left where an oily film should have been? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From allenhess at mgcarclub.com Sun Jun 17 15:48:10 2012 From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess) Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2012 17:48:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] Car Wax Alert In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On Jun 17, 2012, at 2:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > I just thought I'd pass along some feedback on a new wax product I > tried > from Meguiars. It's called Ultimate Liquid Wax (16 oz > container).....I did > not have good results. > > It went on very nicely but was very, very difficult to remove after it > hazed because of streaking. So difficult that it bordered on > downright > annoying. Did you apply by hand or machine? I don't know anything about this wax but I've had similar trouble with other waxes on a BRG car. My solution turned out to be an orbital polisher (Porter Cable) to apply the wax and micro fiber bonnets on the polisher to remove it. I think that when I applied the wax by hand it was too heavy and uneven. That said, before I got the polisher, I had much better/easier results with some waxes than others. Allen TR4 From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jun 17 18:40:03 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2012 17:40:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] Testing ignition coil: what am I doing wrong???? In-Reply-To: References: <0F3E417CA9824ACDAC7524415453478E@I7Quad> <02de01cd4c99$84423090$0601a8c0@randall> <030301cd4caf$afec9e40$0601a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <034301cd4cea$e703da20$0601a8c0@randall> > I ended up making my own voltage stabilizer using an > LM2940-10 and the required supporting parts on a homemade PCB > all fitting in the same case as the original VS So, did you use the two capacitors as NS recommends? I did the same thing except with an NTE-1953 (copy of the LM2910-10) and without a PCB. The NTE datasheet doesn't mention the need for the capacitors, but it wouldn't work right without them. -- Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jun 17 18:53:17 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 17 Jun 2012 17:53:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] Break-In Oil Change: an observation and a question In-Reply-To: <147672621.174741.1339966949033.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <147672621.174741.1339966949033.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <034401cd4cec$c0255f80$0601a8c0@randall> > I never used to think it mattered all that much if you put in > a quality filter. Something that perhaps some people don't know: All "full flow" oil filters have a bypass valve that will open if the filter becomes clogged, and allow unfiltered oil to pass into the engine. There is no indication that this has happened, especially on the TR3-4 where the oil pressure gauge is on the inlet side of the filter. But if you've ever torn down an engine after a blowup, the swarf will be spread all through the galleries and in the bearings, making it obvious it went through the filter bypass valve. (TR2 and very early TR3 used a bypass filter that always fed unfiltered oil to the engine galleries. The filter output went directly back to the pan.) I'd guess the black stuff on your finger is carbon. Personally I would be tempted to drop the pan again, as it sounds like the oil broke down and possibly left a layer of sludge in the pan. Many years ago I had a TR engine that would break down multi-weight oil, leaving it as thin as water and a heavy layer of sludge in the pan. -- Randall From carlsereda at aol.com Mon Jun 18 12:11:32 2012 From: carlsereda at aol.com (Carl Sereda) Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2012 14:11:32 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] black soot in 1st oil change.. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CF1B94EC757EFA-1914-EA2@angweb-usm004.sysops.aol.com> just a guess - you're new camshaft got de-parkerized a little.. What caused that? I'm suspecting that while the rings were unseated, gas was blowing by into the crank case. Even if this were the case, what is that black smudge that's left where an oily film should have been? From timipurdy at citlink.net Mon Jun 18 16:08:00 2012 From: timipurdy at citlink.net (Tim Purdy) Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2012 15:08:00 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR 4 Body Parts Message-ID: <5EF64CD7-3586-44AA-8FBB-C2B7F2126C60@citlink.net> On Friday my TR4 was parked at the county fairgrounds while I was inside one of the buildings setting up for a Lassen High Alumni Picnic. The county fair manager backed into it and did some major body damage. My auto body guy has located some of the items, but not all and since I have never had to venture down this road and need some assistance. My car is a 1964 TR4. The body guy needs to locate: moulding on top of the fender a bonnet and bonnet hinges Any guidance in this matter would truly be appreciated. Tim Purdy Susanville, CA From pat.l at comcast.net Mon Jun 18 17:17:38 2012 From: pat.l at comcast.net (Pat Ledford) Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2012 19:17:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR 4 Body Parts In-Reply-To: <5EF64CD7-3586-44AA-8FBB-C2B7F2126C60@citlink.net> References: <5EF64CD7-3586-44AA-8FBB-C2B7F2126C60@citlink.net> Message-ID: <4FDFB712.2010508@comcast.net> Pittsburgh Craig's List http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/pts/3074932948.html Most economical shipping for this type of parts is Greyhound bus. Pat Ledford On 6/18/2012 6:08 PM, Tim Purdy wrote: > On Friday my TR4 was parked at the county fairgrounds while I was inside one > of the buildings setting up for a Lassen High Alumni Picnic. The county fair > manager backed into it and did some major body damage. My auto body guy has > located some of the items, but not all and since I have never had to venture > down this road and need some assistance. > > My car is a 1964 TR4. The body guy needs to locate: > > moulding on top of the fender > a bonnet and bonnet hinges > > Any guidance in this matter would truly be appreciated. > > Tim Purdy > Susanville, CA > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pat.l at comcast.net From dave at ranteer.com Mon Jun 18 17:18:43 2012 From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave) Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2012 18:18:43 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR 4 Body Parts In-Reply-To: <4FDFB712.2010508@comcast.net> References: <5EF64CD7-3586-44AA-8FBB-C2B7F2126C60@citlink.net> <4FDFB712.2010508@comcast.net> Message-ID: <408C5EF49A764E31905CDEF040B87AB7@ranteer.local> definitely ship greyhound. not that expensive -----Original Message----- From: Pat Ledford Sent: Monday, June 18, 2012 6:17 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR 4 Body Parts Pittsburgh Craig's List http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/pts/3074932948.html Most economical shipping for this type of parts is Greyhound bus. Pat Ledford From glemon at neb.rr.com Mon Jun 18 17:56:54 2012 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2012 18:56:54 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR 4 Body Parts In-Reply-To: <408C5EF49A764E31905CDEF040B87AB7@ranteer.local> References: <5EF64CD7-3586-44AA-8FBB-C2B7F2126C60@citlink.net><4FDFB712.2010508@comcast.net> <408C5EF49A764E31905CDEF040B87AB7@ranteer.local> Message-ID: The fender top molding can be gotten new for not too much from Moss Motors, Victoria British. The Roadster Factory, etc. Greg Lemon From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Mon Jun 18 21:57:56 2012 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Mon, 18 Jun 2012 20:57:56 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] break in oil Message-ID: <1340078276.88452.YahooMailNeo@web65509.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Listers: Sorry for bringing up this thread again. I was SURE i saved all prior emails concerning a good break in oil but no can find at all. I think some or most of the suggestions were available at the big box stores. This is for tr-3 motor. thanks! gary n. From ambritts at bellsouth.net Tue Jun 19 05:35:11 2012 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2012 07:35:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] Tires Message-ID: <6AE17831D8644B64BB21D972978FA1AE@AlexPC> My TR3 has Denman whitewalls. When checking into replacing them, I found out that Denman went out of business. Even though the molds were bought out, it was more for the truck/military line of tires. The size is 6.00x15 Coker is listing these tires for the TR3......any opinions on fit? http://www.cokertire.com/590-15-bf-goodrich-2-whitewall-tire.html Thanks, Alex 59 TR3A From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Tue Jun 19 07:21:40 2012 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2012 06:21:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] Tires In-Reply-To: <6AE17831D8644B64BB21D972978FA1AE@AlexPC> References: <6AE17831D8644B64BB21D972978FA1AE@AlexPC> Message-ID: On Tue, Jun 19, 2012 at 4:35 AM, Alex wrote: > Coker is listing these tires for the TR3......any opinions on fit? > > http://www.cokertire.com/590-15-bf-goodrich-2-whitewall-tire.html > It appears they will fit fine but their suitability will depend on how you plan to use the car. Geo From ambritts at bellsouth.net Tue Jun 19 07:36:22 2012 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2012 09:36:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] Tires In-Reply-To: References: <6AE17831D8644B64BB21D972978FA1AE@AlexPC> Message-ID: I don't drive it hard at all.........don't like fixing things that break....the restoration was enough. :o) ----- Original Message ----- From: Geo Hahn To: Alex Cc: *Triumphs List Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2012 9:21 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Tires On Tue, Jun 19, 2012 at 4:35 AM, Alex wrote: Coker is listing these tires for the TR3......any opinions on fit? http://www.cokertire.com/590-15-bf-goodrich-2-whitewall-tire.html It appears they will fit fine but their suitability will depend on how you plan to use the car. Geo From wbeech at flash.net Tue Jun 19 07:53:44 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2012 08:53:44 -0500 Subject: [TR] Tires In-Reply-To: References: <6AE17831D8644B64BB21D972978FA1AE@AlexPC> Message-ID: If your going to be doing much driving at all, I would recommend going with a radial. Both Coker and Diamond back have a selection of W/W tires to fit your car. That BFG 5.90-15 will look good on your car but will ride a handle pretty rough by comparison. Diamondback put W/Ws on a set of 165/15 Nankangs for me that have performed very well for my moderate driving needs. NFI, Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alex Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2012 8:36 AM To: Geo Hahn Cc: *Triumphs List Subject: Re: [TR] Tires I don't drive it hard at all.........don't like fixing things that break....the restoration was enough. :o) ----- Original Message ----- From: Geo Hahn To: Alex Cc: *Triumphs List Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2012 9:21 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Tires On Tue, Jun 19, 2012 at 4:35 AM, Alex wrote: Coker is listing these tires for the TR3......any opinions on fit? http://www.cokertire.com/590-15-bf-goodrich-2-whitewall-tire.html It appears they will fit fine but their suitability will depend on how you plan to use the car. Geo ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From ambritts at bellsouth.net Tue Jun 19 08:06:05 2012 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2012 10:06:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] Tires In-Reply-To: References: <6AE17831D8644B64BB21D972978FA1AE@AlexPC> Message-ID: <4475062D53D044B6A917886AB0E8BA35@AlexPC> What did they charge for the ww. Alex ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "'Alex'" ; "'Geo Hahn'" Cc: "'*Triumphs List'" Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2012 9:53 AM Subject: RE: [TR] Tires > If your going to be doing much driving at all, I would recommend going > with > a radial. Both Coker and Diamond back have a selection of W/W tires to > fit > your car. That BFG 5.90-15 will look good on your car but will ride a > handle pretty rough by comparison. > > Diamondback put W/Ws on a set of 165/15 Nankangs for me that have > performed > very well for my moderate driving needs. > > NFI, > Bill > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alex > Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2012 8:36 AM > To: Geo Hahn > Cc: *Triumphs List > Subject: Re: [TR] Tires > > I don't drive it hard at all.........don't like fixing things that > break....the restoration was enough. :o) > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Geo Hahn > To: Alex > Cc: *Triumphs List > Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2012 9:21 AM > Subject: Re: [TR] Tires > > > On Tue, Jun 19, 2012 at 4:35 AM, Alex wrote: > > Coker is listing these tires for the TR3......any opinions on fit? > > http://www.cokertire.com/590-15-bf-goodrich-2-whitewall-tire.html > > > > It appears they will fit fine but their suitability will depend on how > you > plan to use the car. > > Geo From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Tue Jun 19 08:56:18 2012 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2012 07:56:18 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Tires In-Reply-To: <6AE17831D8644B64BB21D972978FA1AE@AlexPC> References: <6AE17831D8644B64BB21D972978FA1AE@AlexPC> Message-ID: <1340117778.68450.YahooMailNeo@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> my buddy has them on his TR3. they look really great. they don't ride much different than my radials. they don't fit in the spare tire compartment, but then neither do my radials. we both keep the spare deflated. we drive a little spirited at times and he does just fine with them. he bought them months before the restoration was finished. had a puncture just weeks after getting the car on the road. he called coker, explained his situation and coker replaced the tire. great service. Frank From: Alex To: *Triumphs List Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2012 4:35 AM Subject: [TR] Tires My TR3 has Denman whitewalls. When checking into replacing them, I found out that Denman went out of business. Even though the molds were bought out, it was more for the truck/military line of tires. The size is 6.00x15 Coker is listing these tires for the TR3......any opinions on fit? http://www.cokertire.com/590-15-bf-goodrich-2-whitewall-tire.html Thanks, Alex 59 TR3A ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Tue Jun 19 18:15:29 2012 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2012 20:15:29 -0400 Subject: [TR] Anyone got an extra hotel room for TRA Message-ID: The tr2 is not gonna make it. I changed the transmission oil today and the gear oil sparkled like gold.... time to dig into it. I guess i could tow it, but i have a personal aversion to that - to me, my fun and reward is the adventure of driving to the event and fixing what breaks along the way. Guess that makes me a masochist-or a triumph geek...... (i have a special alligator clip wire dedicated to hot wiring my cars) So it looks like im driving the triumph chase vehicle to little Switzerland. I work with the boy scouts a lot, so i may just camp. I'm really disaponted that the 2 is not gonna make it. It's looking pretty good! The driver Tr4 has developed a clunk when braking so it's off the road, too. So depressed ... Chris 54 TR2 63 TR4 From Loumetelko at aol.com Tue Jun 19 18:44:23 2012 From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com) Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2012 20:44:23 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Anyone got an extra hotel room for TRA Message-ID: <3e3aa.405e4303.3d1276e7@aol.com> 'm really disaponted that the 2 is not gonna make it. It's looking pretty good! So depressed ... Chris: Sad news for sure. We will be departing Auburn, Indiana about 7:30 tomorrow morning for the straight through drive. Estimated arrival 5:30 or so depending on the length and number of potty breaks by the co-pilot. I have not heard of any extra rooms but then again I have not asked. See ya there! Lou Metelko Auburn, Indiana 54 TR2LD From rjones at wfeca.net Wed Jun 20 08:22:03 2012 From: rjones at wfeca.net (Robert Jones) Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2012 09:22:03 -0500 Subject: [TR] Insurance Message-ID: <60254466-0BF3-4228-8439-053B522B0A6C@wfeca.net> Folks: Just found something out about my classic car insurance that you might be interested in, especially if you have multiple cars. My company, American Collectors Insurance, does not charge for liability coverage for cars after three. The practical effect of that is that if you choose a high enough deductible, coverage for cars after the third very little. After talking to a Haggerty representative at the Mitty, I got a quote from them. My coverage for four cars (TR6,TR8,Morgan Plus 4 and a Pontiac) was quoted as $909. ACI premium is $748. From brad.kahler at 141.com Wed Jun 20 10:48:47 2012 From: brad.kahler at 141.com (brad.kahler at 141.com) Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2012 12:48:47 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Lug nut torque spec - TR4 Message-ID: <1340210927.69724298@mail.141.com> Listers, Ok, I've finally got new wheels AND tires (195/65R15 Kumho) for my 4. The wheels are the low priced Mini-Lite replicas that are on the market. They come with chrome tapered style lug nuts. Since these are not steel wheels I'm not sure what torque spec would be appropriate. I know on Susan's spitfire race car where we use 7/16" wheel studs and the same style of lug nut I have been using 65 to 70 ft lbs of torque. I'm not sure if that torque is appropriate or not, especially for a street car. I've never seen any documentation supporting or refuting that that torque setting. I know after a 20 minute session its not unusual to have to re-torque the lug nuts because they have loosened up a bit. This will happen over a number of sessions to where eventually they don't require re-torquing. Any advice? Thanks, Brad 1963 TR4 From jfreynolds_99 at yahoo.com Wed Jun 20 13:32:16 2012 From: jfreynolds_99 at yahoo.com (John Reynolds) Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2012 12:32:16 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Tires In-Reply-To: <6AE17831D8644B64BB21D972978FA1AE@AlexPC> References: <6AE17831D8644B64BB21D972978FA1AE@AlexPC> Message-ID: <1340220736.26188.YahooMailNeo@web162506.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Alex, I just bought a set of the Coker brand 165R-15 radial whitewall tires for my TR3A and I am very satisfied with them. I replaced a set of Denman 6.00 x 15s white walls which were in great shape but quite old. The radials are a vast improvement in roadholding, although they are not as good looking as the Denmans. The only issue with the 165R-15 is fitting it into the spare tire compartment. I kept a Denman for that purpose. Regards, John Reynolds ________________________________ From: Alex To: *Triumphs List Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2012 6:35 AM Subject: [TR] Tires My TR3 has Denman whitewalls. When checking into replacing them, I found out that Denman went out of business. Even though the molds were bought out, it was more for the truck/military line of tires. The size is 6.00x15 Coker is listing these tires for the TR3......any opinions on fit? http://www.cokertire.com/590-15-bf-goodrich-2-whitewall-tire.html Thanks, Alex 59 TR3A ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jfreynolds_99 at yahoo.com From tr6parts at charter.net Wed Jun 20 14:04:02 2012 From: tr6parts at charter.net (tr6parts at charter.net) Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2012 16:04:02 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Lug nut torque spec - TR4 Message-ID: <428f8dda.1519b.1380b7e9b15.Webtop.48@charter.net> Torque setting on a TR6 is 80 ft lbs. I would assume.... that it would be about the same for a TR4. Al On Wed, Jun 20, 2012 at 12:48 PM, brad.kahler at 141.com wrote: > Listers, > > Ok, I've finally got new wheels AND tires (195/65R15 Kumho) for my > 4. The wheels are the low priced Mini-Lite replicas that are on the > market. > They come with chrome tapered style lug nuts. > Since these are not steel > wheels I'm not sure what torque spec would be appropriate. > > I know on Susan's > spitfire race car where we use 7/16" wheel studs and the same style of > lug nut > I have been using 65 to 70 ft lbs of torque. I'm not sure if that > torque is > appropriate or not, especially for a street car. I've never seen any > documentation supporting or refuting that that torque setting. > > I know after a > 20 minute session its not unusual to have to re-torque the lug nuts > because > they have loosened up a bit. This will happen over a number of > sessions to > where eventually they don't require re-torquing. > > Any advice? > > Thanks, > > Brad > 1963 TR4 > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr6parts at charter.net From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jun 20 22:07:42 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2012 21:07:42 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3/4 Rear wheel hub runout Message-ID: <00f401cd4f63$682eda30$0601a8c0@randall> Listerati: Any thoughts on what is an acceptable level of runout in the rear hubs? I've measured about .005" TIR on two hubs now, which seems pretty minimal to me. But I thought I'd ask what others think. I'm measuring at about 2.75" from the center, so I think that works out to less than .025" at the road. Trying to decide if I should go through the hassle of removing the studs and skimming the hub surface (to true it up) or not. -- Randall From tony at tonydrews.com Thu Jun 21 09:01:46 2012 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2012 10:01:46 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3/4 Rear wheel hub runout In-Reply-To: <00f401cd4f63$682eda30$0601a8c0@randall> References: <00f401cd4f63$682eda30$0601a8c0@randall> Message-ID: You won't feel 0.025" runout at the wheel. Tony Drews At 11:07 PM 6/20/2012, Randall wrote: >Listerati: > >Any thoughts on what is an acceptable level of runout in the rear hubs? >I've measured about .005" TIR on two hubs now, which seems pretty minimal to >me. But I thought I'd ask what others think. > >I'm measuring at about 2.75" from the center, so I think that works out to >less than .025" at the road. > >Trying to decide if I should go through the hassle of removing the studs and >skimming the hub surface (to true it up) or not. > >-- Randall > >** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com From paradisemusicnc at gmail.com Thu Jun 21 09:07:45 2012 From: paradisemusicnc at gmail.com (Bryan Loy) Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2012 11:07:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] guage mounting rings Message-ID: Hello the list. Somewhere during a couple of out of state moves, I have lost the rings that hold the speedo and tach onto the dash of my 71 TR6. Does anyone have a pair? Please advise as to cost. Many thanks in advance. Bryan C. Loy 71 TR6 From mbarre at juno.com Thu Jun 21 10:52:01 2012 From: mbarre at juno.com (Matt) Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2012 16:52:01 GMT Subject: [TR] guage mounting rings Message-ID: <20120621.125201.25949.0@webmail06.vgs.untd.com> IIRC it isn't a ring but two "legs or brackets" that go on the studs coming out of the back of the instruments.The leg reaches forward to push against the back of the dash. Matt in Columbus ---------- Original Message ---------- From: Bryan Loy To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] guage mounting rings Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2012 11:07:45 -0400 Hello the list. Somewhere during a couple of out of state moves, I have lost the rings that hold the speedo and tach onto the dash of my 71 TR6. Does anyone have a pair? Please advise as to cost. Many thanks in advance. Bryan C. Loy 71 TR6 ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mbarre at juno.com From wbeech at flash.net Thu Jun 21 11:17:50 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2012 12:17:50 -0500 Subject: [TR] guage mounting rings In-Reply-To: <20120621.125201.25949.0@webmail06.vgs.untd.com> References: <20120621.125201.25949.0@webmail06.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: That's the setup on my TR3 unless you are talking about the rubber o-rings that fit just behind the bezel? BB -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Matt Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2012 11:52 AM To: paradisemusicnc at gmail.com Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] guage mounting rings IIRC it isn't a ring but two "legs or brackets" that go on the studs coming out of the back of the instruments.The leg reaches forward to push against the back of the dash. Matt in Columbus ---------- Original Message ---------- From: Bryan Loy To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] guage mounting rings Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2012 11:07:45 -0400 Hello the list. Somewhere during a couple of out of state moves, I have lost the rings that hold the speedo and tach onto the dash of my 71 TR6. Does anyone have a pair? Please advise as to cost. Many thanks in advance. Bryan C. Loy 71 TR6 ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mbarre at juno.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From triumphstag at gmail.com Thu Jun 21 14:37:33 2012 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy) Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2012 13:37:33 -0700 Subject: [TR] tire wear question Message-ID: A simple question. If the inside of my front tires are wearing faster than the outside which one the the diagrams applies to my car. (this is assuming the camber and caster are OK) 1) / ----- \ ( the front tip of the tires are closer together) 2 \ ----- / ( the front tip of the tires are further apart.) I need to adjust the alignment of the steering and want to know whether to increase or decrease the distance of the tie rod on the rack Sujit -- Sujit Roy, Realtor (408) 839-8359 From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Thu Jun 21 14:52:40 2012 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2012 13:52:40 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] tire wear question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1340311960.10640.YahooMailNeo@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> #2 2 \ ----- / ( the front tip of the tires are further apart.) just like mine Frank From: Sujit Roy To: Triumphs Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2012 1:37 PM Subject: [TR] tire wear question A simple question. If the inside of my front tires are wearing faster than the outside which one the the diagrams applies to my car. (this is assuming the camber and caster are OK) 1) / ----- \ ( the front tip of the tires are closer together) 2 \ ----- / ( the front tip of the tires are further apart.) I need to adjust the alignment of the steering and want to know whether to increase or decrease the distance of the tie rod on the rack Sujit -- Sujit Roy, Realtor (408) 839-8359 ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk Thu Jun 21 15:21:52 2012 From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2012 22:21:52 +0100 (BST) Subject: [TR] guage mounting rings In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1340313712.67101.YahooMailNeo@web29405.mail.ird.yahoo.com> Known on the assembly line as 'pull backs' though I expect Smiths or Jaeger had other more engineered titles. Really easy to make your own using lightweight drilled strip metal. After all, is a Concours Judge going to lie in the footwell looking upwards with a lamp? Wot the eye don't see, the 'art don't grieve... Jonmac From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jun 21 15:45:19 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2012 14:45:19 -0700 Subject: [TR] guage mounting rings In-Reply-To: <1340313712.67101.YahooMailNeo@web29405.mail.ird.yahoo.com> References: <1340313712.67101.YahooMailNeo@web29405.mail.ird.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <069b01cd4ff7$27c60e20$77522a60$@rr.com> > Really easy to make your own using > lightweight drilled strip metal. Might not be quite as simple as it seems, though. The ones used for the speedo and tach have a sort of cantilever arrangement, so the mounting studs are not on a centerline as you might expect. Instead, one side of the bracket has a finger (for lack of a better term) that contacts the instrument case, and the legs that contact the back of the dash stick out the other way. That way the cable can attach in the center without interfering with the bracket. -- Randall From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk Thu Jun 21 16:01:49 2012 From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2012 23:01:49 +0100 (BST) Subject: [TR] guage mounting rings In-Reply-To: <069b01cd4ff7$27c60e20$77522a60$@rr.com> References: <1340313712.67101.YahooMailNeo@web29405.mail.ird.yahoo.com> <069b01cd4ff7$27c60e20$77522a60$@rr.com> Message-ID: <1340316109.64961.YahooMailNeo@web29402.mail.ird.yahoo.com> I'm aware of that arrangement, Randall - but making an alternative isn't difficult. Helped someone do it about two weeks back on a '73 Toledo that called itself a Dolomite Jonmac ________________________________ From: Randall To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, 21 June 2012, 22:45 Subject: Re: [TR] guage mounting rings >> Really easy to make your own using >> lightweight drilled strip metal. > >Might not be quite as simple as it seems, though. The ones used for the >speedo and tach have a sort of cantilever arrangement, so the mounting studs >are not on a centerline as you might expect. Instead, one side of the >bracket has a finger (for lack of a better term) that contacts the >instrument case, and the legs that contact the back of the dash stick out >the other way. That way the cable can attach in the center without >interfering with the bracket. > >-- Randall > >** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Thu Jun 21 16:04:05 2012 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2012 15:04:05 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] guage mounting rings In-Reply-To: <1340313712.67101.YahooMailNeo@web29405.mail.ird.yahoo.com> References: <1340313712.67101.YahooMailNeo@web29405.mail.ird.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1340316245.15197.YahooMailNeo@web120205.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> talking of judge's. how did your "as it left the factory" go? Frank From: John Macartney To: Bryan Loy ; "triumphs at autox.team.net" Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2012 2:21 PM Subject: Re: [TR] guage mounting rings Known on the assembly line as 'pull backs' though I expect Smiths or Jaeger had other more engineered titles. Really easy to make your own using lightweight drilled strip metal. After all, is a Concours Judge going to lie in the footwell looking upwards with a lamp? Wot the eye don't see, the 'art don't grieve... Jonmac ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From glemon at neb.rr.com Thu Jun 21 16:52:38 2012 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2012 17:52:38 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3/4 Rear wheel hub runout In-Reply-To: <20120621150054.B52D12D07A0@autox.team.net> References: <00f401cd4f63$682eda30$0601a8c0@randall> <20120621150054.B52D12D07A0@autox.team.net> Message-ID: I read somewhere that up to .050" was acceptable, if you aren't feeling any vibration and the tires are wearing evenly you should be OK, if you have wire wheels you may be getting more runout from the wheels than you will get from the hub. Greg Lemon From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Thu Jun 21 17:42:13 2012 From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com) Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2012 19:42:13 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Really quite OT, but not completely Message-ID: <58f7.16821bd0.3d150b55@aol.com> Hello Listers.. I have a book with a TR3A in it. Herein ends the on-topic part. This book, though, consists of some fabulous artwork of many cars, all colour-painted with "holes" in bodywork so that you can see their technical innards. Their must be a word or term for this type of illustrating, but I don't know what it is. One of the cars illustrated is a TR3A and it is such a superb and, I think, unique illustration that I would really like to somehow get some duplicates of the illustration. So, I'm seeking help and/or advice as to how I get this. The book is called "Inside 100 Great Cars", edited by David Hodges, first published 1988, this edition 1992, published by Marshall Cavendish Ltd., London W1 (whom I have e-mailed--no answer). Few of the illustrations have an artists name, but for those that do, I have conducted internet searches that have revealed nothing. I would especially like to get a copy of the "cutout" illustration of the TR3A; perhaps it could be available to listers; it's quite incredible. My other option is to try to take the book apart and attempt copying the illustration. The book will be wrecked, and the illustration might be too, especially as it's not in the middle pages (that's reserved for a cutout illustration of a Jaguar XKSS). Does anyone have any comments on where I should turn, how I can make copies, etc. etc. Anything, really. Sorry for such a weird question. Tim From don.hiscock at gmail.com Thu Jun 21 18:07:16 2012 From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2012 20:07:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] Really quite OT, but not completely In-Reply-To: <58f7.16821bd0.3d150b55@aol.com> References: <58f7.16821bd0.3d150b55@aol.com> Message-ID: Scanning an image from inside a book, even in several pieces and stitching them together, isn't that hard with modern image editing software. It won't require sestruxtion of rhe book The issue will be copyright and getting permission to make copies for others. Don 1962 TR3B TSF202L On Thursday, June 21, 2012, wrote: > Hello Listers.. > > I have a book with a TR3A in it. Herein ends the on-topic part. > > This book, though, consists of some fabulous artwork of many cars, all > colour-painted with "holes" in bodywork so that you can see their technical > innards. Their must be a word or term for this type of illustrating, but I > don't know what it is. One of the cars illustrated is a TR3A and it is > such a > superb and, I think, unique illustration that I would really like to > somehow get some duplicates of the illustration. So, I'm seeking help > and/or > advice as to how I get this. > > The book is called "Inside 100 Great Cars", edited by David Hodges, first > published 1988, this edition 1992, published by Marshall Cavendish Ltd., > London W1 (whom I have e-mailed--no answer). Few of the illustrations > have an > artists name, but for those that do, I have conducted internet searches > that have revealed nothing. I would especially like to get a copy of the > "cutout" illustration of the TR3A; perhaps it could be available to > listers; > it's quite incredible. My other option is to try to take the book apart > and > attempt copying the illustration. The book will be wrecked, and the > illustration might be too, especially as it's not in the middle pages > (that's > reserved for a cutout illustration of a Jaguar XKSS). > > Does anyone have any comments on where I should turn, how I can make > copies, etc. etc. Anything, really. > > Sorry for such a weird question. > > Tim > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com From don.hiscock at gmail.com Thu Jun 21 18:08:35 2012 From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2012 20:08:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] Really quite OT, but not completely In-Reply-To: References: <58f7.16821bd0.3d150b55@aol.com> Message-ID: Read "destruction of the book". Fat finger error on iPhone... On Thursday, June 21, 2012, Don Hiscock wrote: > Scanning an image from inside a book, even in several pieces and stitching > them together, isn't that hard with modern image editing software. It won't > require sestruxtion of rhe book The issue will be copyright and getting > permission to make copies for others. > > Don > 1962 TR3B TSF202L > > On Thursday, June 21, 2012, wrote: > >> Hello Listers.. >> >> I have a book with a TR3A in it. Herein ends the on-topic part. >> >> This book, though, consists of some fabulous artwork of many cars, all >> colour-painted with "holes" in bodywork so that you can see their >> technical >> innards. Their must be a word or term for this type of illustrating, but I >> don't know what it is. One of the cars illustrated is a TR3A and it is >> such a >> superb and, I think, unique illustration that I would really like to >> somehow get some duplicates of the illustration. So, I'm seeking help >> and/or >> advice as to how I get this. >> >> The book is called "Inside 100 Great Cars", edited by David Hodges, first >> published 1988, this edition 1992, published by Marshall Cavendish Ltd., >> London W1 (whom I have e-mailed--no answer). Few of the illustrations >> have an >> artists name, but for those that do, I have conducted internet searches >> that have revealed nothing. I would especially like to get a copy of the >> "cutout" illustration of the TR3A; perhaps it could be available to >> listers; >> it's quite incredible. My other option is to try to take the book apart >> and >> attempt copying the illustration. The book will be wrecked, and the >> illustration might be too, especially as it's not in the middle pages >> (that's >> reserved for a cutout illustration of a Jaguar XKSS). >> >> Does anyone have any comments on where I should turn, how I can make >> copies, etc. etc. Anything, really. >> >> Sorry for such a weird question. >> >> Tim >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com From wbeech at flash.net Thu Jun 21 20:50:12 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2012 21:50:12 -0500 Subject: [TR] Really quite OT, but not completely In-Reply-To: <58f7.16821bd0.3d150b55@aol.com> References: <58f7.16821bd0.3d150b55@aol.com> Message-ID: <0DE40BF355A44F41B23FF9ED22A35F83@bboffice> Whether you destruct it or sestruct it, there is an extra copy on Powell's Books for only $4.50. http://www.powells.com/biblio/1-9780671089115-9#product_details BTW, I have always heard of those types of illustrations referred to as "Cutaways" Bill Beecher '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby" '62 TR3B TCF/2549L www.triumphowners.com/1566 '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" "Hello, my name is Bill and I own an old British car. Now...What are the next 11 steps?" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Sent: Thursday, June 21, 2012 6:42 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Really quite OT, but not completely Hello Listers.. I have a book with a TR3A in it. Herein ends the on-topic part. This book, though, consists of some fabulous artwork of many cars, all colour-painted with "holes" in bodywork so that you can see their technical innards. Their must be a word or term for this type of illustrating, but I don't know what it is. One of the cars illustrated is a TR3A and it is such a superb and, I think, unique illustration that I would really like to somehow get some duplicates of the illustration. So, I'm seeking help and/or advice as to how I get this. The book is called "Inside 100 Great Cars", edited by David Hodges, first published 1988, this edition 1992, published by Marshall Cavendish Ltd., London W1 (whom I have e-mailed--no answer). Few of the illustrations have an artists name, but for those that do, I have conducted internet searches that have revealed nothing. I would especially like to get a copy of the "cutout" illustration of the TR3A; perhaps it could be available to listers; it's quite incredible. My other option is to try to take the book apart and attempt copying the illustration. The book will be wrecked, and the illustration might be too, especially as it's not in the middle pages (that's reserved for a cutout illustration of a Jaguar XKSS). Does anyone have any comments on where I should turn, how I can make copies, etc. etc. Anything, really. Sorry for such a weird question. Tim ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jun 21 21:34:41 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2012 20:34:41 -0700 Subject: [TR] guage mounting rings In-Reply-To: <1340316109.64961.YahooMailNeo@web29402.mail.ird.yahoo.com> References: <1340313712.67101.YahooMailNeo@web29405.mail.ird.yahoo.com><069b01cd4ff7$27c60e20$77522a60$@rr.com> <1340316109.64961.YahooMailNeo@web29402.mail.ird.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <020801cd5027$f5ebcb70$0601a8c0@randall> > I'm aware of that arrangement, Randall No criticism intended, John. Just pointing out some considerations, should the OP (or anyone else) decide to try it. Sometimes the obvious isn't so obvious. -- Randall From Catpusher at aol.com Thu Jun 21 22:04:28 2012 From: Catpusher at aol.com (Catpusher at aol.com) Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2012 00:04:28 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Subject: TR3/4 Rear wheel hub runout Message-ID: <72b29.713b723c.3d1548cc@aol.com> Randall, Please check the hubs for cracks where the brake drum ID rests; these usually start from the grease bleed hole in that area; unless there was a shunt. + - 0.0025" otherwise might be OK. I do NOT recommend replacing the rear hub studs with OEM ones. TR Regards, Hardy In a message dated 6/21/2012 11:06:28 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, triumphs-request at autox.team.net writes: Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2012 21:07:42 -0700 From: "Randall" To: Subject: [TR] TR3/4 Rear wheel hub runout Message-ID: <00f401cd4f63$682eda30$0601a8c0 at randall> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Listerati: Any thoughts on what is an acceptable level of runout in the rear hubs? I've measured about .005" TIR on two hubs now, which seems pretty minimal to me. But I thought I'd ask what others think. I'm measuring at about 2.75" from the center, so I think that works out to less than .025" at the road. Trying to decide if I should go through the hassle of removing the studs and skimming the hub surface (to true it up) or not. -- Randall From Catpusher at aol.com Thu Jun 21 22:35:10 2012 From: Catpusher at aol.com (Catpusher at aol.com) Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2012 00:35:10 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Subject: Re: Lug nut torque spec - TR4 Message-ID: <730dd.71e5acc1.3d154ffe@aol.com> Brad, (bad Assume joke deleted) The TR4 factory torque is 45 - 55 Lbs. ft. for the OEM wheels. Exceeding this on standard wheels can cause wheel failure, as the OEM TR6 wheels are different, as are the TR6 & IRS rear studs and hubs. I ran the 55 Lbs. ft. figure for alloy wheels that Mr. R. W. Kastner recommended in his TR3/4 comp prep books, and it worked very well on our TR3 for 25+ seasons of SCCA racing with slicks, as well as the flat towing part of this. btw: the factory TR6 workshop manual specifies "60 to 80 Lbf.ft" Hi To Susan! TR Regards, Hardy In a message dated 6/21/2012 11:06:28 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, triumphs-request at autox.team.net writes: ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Wed, 20 Jun 2012 16:04:02 -0400 (EDT) From: tr6parts at charter.net To: brad.kahler at 141.com Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Lug nut torque spec - TR4 Message-ID: <428f8dda.1519b.1380b7e9b15.Webtop.48 at charter.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed; delsp=no Torque setting on a TR6 is 80 ft lbs. I would assume.... that it would be about the same for a TR4. Al On Wed, Jun 20, 2012 at 12:48 PM, brad.kahler at 141.com wrote: > Listers, > > Ok, I've finally got new wheels AND tires (195/65R15 Kumho) for my > 4. The wheels are the low priced Mini-Lite replicas that are on the > market. > They come with chrome tapered style lug nuts. > Since these are not steel > wheels I'm not sure what torque spec would be appropriate. > > I know on Susan's > spitfire race car where we use 7/16" wheel studs and the same style of > lug nut > I have been using 65 to 70 ft lbs of torque. I'm not sure if that > torque is > appropriate or not, especially for a street car. I've never seen any > documentation supporting or refuting that that torque setting. > > I know after a > 20 minute session its not unusual to have to re-torque the lug nuts > because > they have loosened up a bit. This will happen over a number of > sessions to > where eventually they don't require re-torquing. > > Any advice? > > Thanks, > > Brad > 1963 TR4 From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Jun 22 05:32:28 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2012 07:32:28 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Really quite OT, but not completely Message-ID: <43e62.6b2fb1c3.3d15b1cc@cs.com> Is "sestruxtion" even a word? Rhe is a word but not in English. My Droid keeps trying to respell my words even when they are correct. Dave In a message dated 6/21/2012 7:08:44 PM Central Daylight Time, don.hiscock at gmail.com writes: > Read "destruction of the book". Fat finger error on iPhone... > > On Thursday, June 21, 2012, Don Hiscock wrote: > > >Scanning an image from inside a book, even in several pieces and > stitching > >them together, isn't that hard with modern image editing software. It > won't > >require sestruxtion of rhe book The issue will be copyright and getting > >permission to make copies for others. From a_flying_scotsman at yahoo.com Fri Jun 22 12:13:07 2012 From: a_flying_scotsman at yahoo.com (Alex Cherington) Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2012 11:13:07 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Really quite OT, but not completely In-Reply-To: <43e62.6b2fb1c3.3d15b1cc@cs.com> References: <43e62.6b2fb1c3.3d15b1cc@cs.com> Message-ID: <1340388787.54935.YahooMailNeo@web160305.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Hi, I have a copy of the book and I really like the cutaway diagrams. My first ever cutaway was purchased at Beaulieu and is the Speed Six Bentley on page 114. Some time later I also acquired the cutaway of the TR3 on page 280. At that time I also acquired a cutaway TR6 and Stag. The latter 3 all from Ebay and now all framed and on display. Some of the best diagrams are by Tony Matthews who seems to be a very talented individual. He did the Bentley and Jaguar D Type on page 236. He probably did more in the book but his name and copyright is mssing from the Bentley but is on my wall diagram. From: "Dave1massey at cs.com" To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, 22 June 2012, 12:32 Subject: Re: [TR] Really quite OT, but not completely Is "sestruxtion" even a word? Rhe is a word but not in English. My Droid keeps trying to respell my words even when they are correct. Dave In a message dated 6/21/2012 7:08:44 PM Central Daylight Time, don.hiscock at gmail.com writes: > Read "destruction of the book". Fat finger error on iPhone... > > On Thursday, June 21, 2012, Don Hiscock wrote: > > >Scanning an image from inside a book, even in several pieces and > stitching > >them together, isn't that hard with modern image editing software. It > won't > >require sestruxtion of rhe book The issue will be copyright and getting > >permission to make copies for others. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/a_flying_scotsman at yahoo.com From a_flying_scotsman at yahoo.com Fri Jun 22 12:32:03 2012 From: a_flying_scotsman at yahoo.com (Alex Cherington) Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2012 11:32:03 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Really quite OT, but not completely In-Reply-To: <1340388787.54935.YahooMailNeo@web160305.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> References: <43e62.6b2fb1c3.3d15b1cc@cs.com> <1340388787.54935.YahooMailNeo@web160305.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1340389923.74707.YahooMailNeo@web160304.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> I just googled Tony Matthews and he has quite a volume of work. Take a look. From: Alex Cherington To: "Dave1massey at cs.com" ; "triumphs at autox.team.net" Sent: Friday, 22 June 2012, 19:13 Subject: Re: [TR] Really quite OT, but not completely Hi, I have a copy of the book and I really like the cutaway diagrams. My first ever cutaway was purchased at Beaulieu and is the Speed Six Bentley on page 114. Some time later I also acquired the cutaway of the TR3 on page 280. At that time I also acquired a cutaway TR6 and Stag. The latter 3 all from Ebay and now all framed and on display. Some of the best diagrams are by Tony Matthews who seems to be a very talented individual. He did the Bentley and Jaguar D Type on page 236. He probably did more in the book but his name and copyright is mssing from the Bentley but is on my wall diagram. From: "Dave1massey at cs.com" To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, 22 June 2012, 12:32 Subject: Re: [TR] Really quite OT, but not completely Is "sestruxtion" even a word? Rhe is a word but not in English. My Droid keeps trying to respell my words even when they are correct. Dave In a message dated 6/21/2012 7:08:44 PM Central Daylight Time, don.hiscock at gmail.com writes: > Read "destruction of the book". Fat finger error on iPhone... > > On Thursday, June 21, 2012, Don Hiscock wrote: > > >Scanning an image from inside a book, even in several pieces and > stitching > >them together, isn't that hard with modern image editing software. It > won't > >require sestruxtion of rhe book The issue will be copyright and getting > >permission to make copies for others. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/a_flying_scotsman at yahoo.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/a_flying_scotsman at yahoo.com From dave at ranteer.com Fri Jun 22 12:33:36 2012 From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave) Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2012 13:33:36 -0500 Subject: [TR] Really quite OT, but not completely In-Reply-To: <1340388787.54935.YahooMailNeo@web160305.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> References: <43e62.6b2fb1c3.3d15b1cc@cs.com> <1340388787.54935.YahooMailNeo@web160305.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <62363161C2FC4EDEA16CB6981890D758@ranteer.local> here is his web page http://www.automotiveillustrations.com/illustrators/automotive-illustrator-matthews.html lots of info there (for you skeptics, this link is safe) -----Original Message----- From: Alex Cherington Sent: Friday, June 22, 2012 1:13 PM To: Dave1massey at cs.com ; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Really quite OT, but not completely Hi, I have a copy of the book and I really like the cutaway diagrams. My first ever cutaway was purchased at Beaulieu and is the Speed Six Bentley on page 114. Some time later I also acquired the cutaway of the TR3 on page 280. At that time I also acquired a cutaway TR6 and Stag. The latter 3 all from Ebay and now all framed and on display. Some of the best diagrams are by Tony Matthews who seems to be a very talented individual. He did the Bentley and Jaguar D Type on page 236. He probably did more in the book but his name and copyright is mssing from the Bentley but is on my wall diagram. From: "Dave1massey at cs.com" To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, 22 June 2012, 12:32 Subject: Re: [TR] Really quite OT, but not completely Is "sestruxtion" even a word? Rhe is a word but not in English. My Droid keeps trying to respell my words even when they are correct. Dave In a message dated 6/21/2012 7:08:44 PM Central Daylight Time, don.hiscock at gmail.com writes: > Read "destruction of the book". Fat finger error on iPhone... > > On Thursday, June 21, 2012, Don Hiscock wrote: > > >Scanning an image from inside a book, even in several pieces and > stitching > >them together, isn't that hard with modern image editing software. It > won't > >require sestruxtion of rhe book The issue will be copyright and getting > >permission to make copies for others. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jun 22 12:40:36 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2012 11:40:36 -0700 Subject: [TR] Subject: TR3/4 Rear wheel hub runout In-Reply-To: <72b29.713b723c.3d1548cc@aol.com> References: <72b29.713b723c.3d1548cc@aol.com> Message-ID: <07b301cd50a6$8434d2e0$8c9e78a0$@rr.com> > Please check the hubs for cracks where the brake drum ID rests; these > usually start from the grease bleed hole in that area; unless there was > a shunt. Good point, Hardy, Thanks! I already went over them with a 10x loupe, but I will go back and double-check that area. I don't know the history of these hubs, but they appear to be in very good condition under the dirt and grime from being in the shed for 35+ years. > I do NOT recommend replacing the rear hub studs with OEM ones. As far as I know, the fully threaded studs (which can be screwed in from the back) are no longer made. Do you know of a source? Or do you recommend trying to convert to knurled studs? (I tried that, many years ago, without much success. The hubs were so hard that they just cut the knurls off the stud, rather than deforming around it.) This is for my daily driver, not a race car (except maybe for a few turns on the autocross track at TRfest). -- Randall From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Fri Jun 22 21:24:47 2012 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2012 20:24:47 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 Tonneaus Message-ID: <1340421887.7341.YahooMailRC@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> So last winter I tried to install a tonneau that I bought on sale from LBCarCo. I had bought it years earlier. I was unhappy with the material and the Lift-The-Dot fasteners were some no-name cheap fasteners, probably from China. The steering wheel pocket was sized for a 15 inch steering wheel and the overall fit of the tonneau was unacceptable. Jeff Zorn offered to have the same manufacturer make me one with a better fit, but being that I hated the material and fasteners, I passed. I ordered a tonneau from TRF. Great material and fasteners. Unfortunately, the whole thing looks about an inch too small in all dimensions. All fasteners were placed on the edge of the tonneau. I laid it in the California sun to make it easier to stretch. Man it is a pain to try to get on. It stretches so tight when it cools that it gets all warped and stretched looking. I am not real happy about things. Can someone explain to me how the Lift-the-Dot fasteners work at the slits on the sides? I haven't put those fasteners in yet. It looks like they would only go on the bottom flap that goes underneath the rear part and that the top flap will flap in the wind when I drive.The rear half of the slit doesn't overlap the peg fastener enough to get a Lift-The-Dot fastener on it. It just doesn't look well thought out. I have been using the same tonneau for the last 15 years. It fits fine and I installed it myself. I am thinking of going to an auto upholsterer and having him copy it. I am concerned that it may cost too much. Has anyone else done this and what did you pay? I may end up trying a third time and buy one from MOSS. This time I'll lay it over my old tonneau to make sure that it fits. I am in tonneau hell. TIA Bill in Tehachapi From gpr at key-men.com Sat Jun 23 04:54:20 2012 From: gpr at key-men.com (George Richardson) Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2012 06:54:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Tonneaus In-Reply-To: <1340421887.7341.YahooMailRC@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <1340421887.7341.YahooMailRC@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4FE5A05C.5030200@key-men.com> There are at least two versions of tonneau cover that I know of. One fits the TR2/TR3, the other fits the TR3A. Which car do you have and what cover did you order? The slits on the sides of the cover may be to allow access to cars that don't have exterior door handles. Also, the positioning of the mounting pegs is different on the different cars, particularly on the doors. The TR3A has the mounting pegs mounted lower to clear the Dzus type side curtains.. This would make a cover for an earlier car about an inch too short on a side. Also, what's the history of your car? I've done major restoration of the entire body on mine, and as a result, some things (convertible top for one) don't fit as well as they might otherwise. I didn't exactly think of measuring the cockpit opening when I was welding things up. I do have an old Amco tonneau that I use that fits well enough. I have an earlier TRF cover that was much nicer, but didn't fit as well. George Richardson Key Men - Keys for Classics www.key-men.com On 6/22/2012 11:24 PM, William Brewer wrote: > So last winter I tried to install a tonneau that I bought on sale from > LBCarCo. I had bought it years earlier. I was unhappy with the material and the > Lift-The-Dot fasteners were some no-name cheap fasteners, probably from China. > The steering wheel pocket was sized for a 15 inch steering wheel and the overall > fit of the tonneau was unacceptable. Jeff Zorn offered to have the same > manufacturer make me one with a better fit, but being that I hated the material > and fasteners, I passed. > I ordered a tonneau from TRF. Great material and fasteners. Unfortunately, > the whole thing looks about an inch too small in all dimensions. All fasteners > were placed on the edge of the tonneau. I laid it in the California sun to make > it easier to stretch. Man it is a pain to try to get on. It stretches so tight > when it cools that it gets all warped and stretched looking. I am not real happy > about things. > Can someone explain to me how the Lift-the-Dot fasteners work at the slits > on the sides? I haven't put those fasteners in yet. It looks like they would > only go on the bottom flap that goes underneath the rear part and that the top > flap will flap in the wind when I drive.The rear half of the slit doesn't > overlap the peg fastener enough to get a Lift-The-Dot fastener on it. It just > doesn't look well thought out. > I have been using the same tonneau for the last 15 years. It fits fine and > I installed it myself. I am thinking of going to an auto upholsterer and having > him copy it. I am concerned that it may cost too much. Has anyone else done this > and what did you pay? > I may end up trying a third time and buy one from MOSS. This time I'll lay > it over my old tonneau to make sure that it fits. > I am in tonneau hell. > TIA > > Bill in Tehachapi > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/gpr at key-men.com From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Sat Jun 23 07:13:44 2012 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2012 06:13:44 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 Tonneaus In-Reply-To: <4FE5A05C.5030200@key-men.com> References: <1340421887.7341.YahooMailRC@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <4FE5A05C.5030200@key-men.com> Message-ID: <1340457224.39296.YahooMailRC@web83304.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Mine is a 1960TR3A and I ordered the tonneau for the later car. I ordered the right tonneau from TRF RBTC1234, at least that's what it said on the box. My car has had a rolling restoration. Body has never been off of the frame or had much welding. My advice for others from now on will be to compare your old tonneau against your new one before installation. Bill in Tehachapi ----- Original Message ---- From: George Richardson To: William Brewer Cc: Triumphs Sent: Sat, June 23, 2012 3:50:55 AM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Tonneaus There are at least two versions of tonneau cover that I know of. One fits the TR2/TR3, the other fits the TR3A. Which car do you have and what cover did you order? The slits on the sides of the cover may be to allow access to cars that don't have exterior door handles. Also, the positioning of the mounting pegs is different on the different cars, particularly on the doors. The TR3A has the mounting pegs mounted lower to clear the Dzus type side curtains.. This would make a cover for an earlier car about an inch too short on a side. Also, what's the history of your car? I've done major restoration of the entire body on mine, and as a result, some things (convertible top for one) don't fit as well as they might otherwise. I didn't exactly think of measuring the cockpit opening when I was welding things up. I do have an old Amco tonneau that I use that fits well enough. I have an earlier TRF cover that was much nicer, but didn't fit as well. George Richardson Key Men - Keys for Classics www.key-men.com On 6/22/2012 11:24 PM, William Brewer wrote: > So last winter I tried to install a tonneau that I bought on sale from > LBCarCo. I had bought it years earlier. I was unhappy with the material and the > Lift-The-Dot fasteners were some no-name cheap fasteners, probably from China. > The steering wheel pocket was sized for a 15 inch steering wheel and the >overall > fit of the tonneau was unacceptable. Jeff Zorn offered to have the same > manufacturer make me one with a better fit, but being that I hated the material > and fasteners, I passed. > I ordered a tonneau from TRF. Great material and fasteners. >Unfortunately, > the whole thing looks about an inch too small in all dimensions. All fasteners > were placed on the edge of the tonneau. I laid it in the California sun to >make > it easier to stretch. Man it is a pain to try to get on. It stretches so tight > when it cools that it gets all warped and stretched looking. I am not real >happy > about things. > Can someone explain to me how the Lift-the-Dot fasteners work at the >slits > on the sides? I haven't put those fasteners in yet. It looks like they would > only go on the bottom flap that goes underneath the rear part and that the top > flap will flap in the wind when I drive.The rear half of the slit doesn't > overlap the peg fastener enough to get a Lift-The-Dot fastener on it. It just > doesn't look well thought out. > I have been using the same tonneau for the last 15 years. It fits fine >and > I installed it myself. I am thinking of going to an auto upholsterer and having > him copy it. I am concerned that it may cost too much. Has anyone else done >this > and what did you pay? > I may end up trying a third time and buy one from MOSS. This time I'll >lay > it over my old tonneau to make sure that it fits. > I am in tonneau hell. > TIA > > Bill in Tehachapi > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/gpr at key-men.com From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Sat Jun 23 11:07:30 2012 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2012 10:07:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Tonneaus In-Reply-To: <1340421887.7341.YahooMailRC@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <1340421887.7341.YahooMailRC@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: On Fri, Jun 22, 2012 at 8:24 PM, William Brewer wrote: > ...Can someone explain to me how the Lift-the-Dot fasteners work at the > slits > on the sides? I haven't put those fasteners in yet. It looks like they > would > only go on the bottom flap that goes underneath the rear part and that the > top > flap will flap in the wind when I drive.The rear half of the slit doesn't > overlap the peg fastener enough to get a Lift-The-Dot fastener on it. It > just > doesn't look well thought out. > If I'm thinking of the correct slits, I believe the bottom (rearward) flap get a grommet that secures the flap by going over the LTD post. Then the front flap (which gets a female LTD) goes over the same post to hold both flaps in place. Here're some pics: http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/TR3/Tonneau-A.jpg http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/TR3/Tonneau-B-1.jpg To make this easier I used a longer LTD post in that spot (available as a Model T or Model A part) though the standard post should also work. Needed a longer LTD there anyway for my 'soft' sidecurtains: http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/TR3/Curtains.jpg http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/TR3/Inside.jpg Geo From tr3a.60 at gmail.com Sat Jun 23 12:19:17 2012 From: tr3a.60 at gmail.com (John Wise) Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2012 14:19:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Tonneaus In-Reply-To: References: <1340421887.7341.YahooMailRC@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <0002FAEA-35C3-4F84-9543-1836370D36AC@gmail.com> I took a couple of pictures of the tonneau (that came with the car when I bought it), as it fits on my 60 TR3A. Living in Az & now FL, the tonneau is what is on the car 98% of the time & it kepis the inside dry when it is out in the rain. I will be happy to send them if it will help. John On 23 Jun, 2012, at 1:07 PM, Geo Hahn wrote: > On Fri, Jun 22, 2012 at 8:24 PM, William Brewer wrote: > >> ...Can someone explain to me how the Lift-the-Dot fasteners work at the >> slits >> on the sides? I haven't put those fasteners in yet. It looks like they >> would >> only go on the bottom flap that goes underneath the rear part and that the >> top >> flap will flap in the wind when I drive.The rear half of the slit doesn't >> overlap the peg fastener enough to get a Lift-The-Dot fastener on it. It >> just >> doesn't look well thought out. >> > > > If I'm thinking of the correct slits, I believe the bottom (rearward) flap > get a grommet that secures the flap by going over the LTD post. Then the > front flap (which gets a female LTD) goes over the same post to hold both > flaps in place. Here're some pics: > > http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/TR3/Tonneau-A.jpg > > http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/TR3/Tonneau-B-1.jpg > > To make this easier I used a longer LTD post in that spot (available as a > Model T or Model A part) though the standard post should also work. Needed > a longer LTD there anyway for my 'soft' sidecurtains: > > http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/TR3/Curtains.jpg > > http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/TR3/Inside.jpg > > Geo > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3a.60 at gmail.com John A. Wise Ormond Beach, FL 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From spitlist at cox.net Sat Jun 23 12:38:45 2012 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2012 11:38:45 -0700 Subject: [TR] My son is forced to sell his Mk2 Spit Message-ID: Because of a pending move from Thousand Oaks, CA to Boston, my son is forced to sell his very nice Mk2 Spit. The car is in very good condition and had a complete engine overhaul in the late 90's with very little actual time on it since. He says that he would like it to go to someone who already is familiar with Triumph rather than put it out on EBAY. So if anybody is interested, please email me and I will put you in touch and send you photos. Joe From trguy75 at gmail.com Sat Jun 23 13:10:01 2012 From: trguy75 at gmail.com (James Henningsen) Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2012 15:10:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] Moss Quick Ratio Steering Rack Message-ID: <004601cd5173$caa1c260$5fe54720$@gmail.com> Anyone have experience with this steering rack on a TR6. I recently switched from a stock rack and noticed a significant amount of more effort to turn the wheel. I would guess it should since it takes less turns. Also, just listed my set of five vintage American Racing Lemans wheels purchased new from a Triumph dealer in 1971 on ebay. If interested let me know and I can cancel auction. Would like these to go to a TR club member. Jim Henningsen Ocala, FL 62 TR4 75 TR6 From darrellw360 at mac.com Sat Jun 23 13:53:33 2012 From: darrellw360 at mac.com (Darrell Walker) Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2012 12:53:33 -0700 Subject: [TR] Moss Quick Ratio Steering Rack In-Reply-To: <004601cd5173$caa1c260$5fe54720$@gmail.com> References: <004601cd5173$caa1c260$5fe54720$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <3115C089-F062-44D7-89C2-94CDBECA9B23@mac.com> On Jun 23, 2012, at 12:10 PM, James Henningsen wrote: > Anyone have experience with this steering rack on a TR6. I recently > switched from a stock rack and noticed a significant amount of more effort > to turn the wheel. I would guess it should since it takes less turns. I have that rack on my 4A. I really didn't notice that it took much more effort, changing tire sizes made more difference. I also have a 14" steering wheel. -Darrell -- Darrell Walker 66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L 81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206 Vancouver, WA, USA From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Sat Jun 23 15:12:44 2012 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2012 16:12:44 -0500 Subject: [TR] tr6 spotted in Minneapolis Message-ID: I've gone past a very nice BRG tr6 on Mennihaha Ave in Minneapolis. Anyone on the list? Rich White Central, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF###L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Sat Jun 23 18:26:23 2012 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2012 17:26:23 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 Tonneaus In-Reply-To: References: <1340421887.7341.YahooMailRC@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1340497583.67008.YahooMailRC@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Thanks Geo, I love your "soft" side curtains. What brought them on? How do they work? Is there Velcro along the upper and rear edges? Are they better than stock side curtains? -Bill ________________________________ From: Geo Hahn To: William Brewer Cc: Triumphs Sent: Sat, June 23, 2012 10:07:31 AM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Tonneaus On Fri, Jun 22, 2012 at 8:24 PM, William Brewer wrote: ...Can someone explain to me how the Lift-the-Dot fasteners work at the slits >on the sides? I haven't put those fasteners in yet. It looks like they would >only go on the bottom flap that goes underneath the rear part and that the top >flap will flap in the wind when I drive.The rear half of the slit doesn't >overlap the peg fastener enough to get a Lift-The-Dot fastener on it. It just >doesn't look well thought out. If I'm thinking of the correct slits, I believe the bottom (rearward) flap get a grommet that secures the flap by going over the LTD post. Then the front flap (which gets a female LTD) goes over the same post to hold both flaps in place. Here're some pics: http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/TR3/Tonneau-A.jpg http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/TR3/Tonneau-B-1.jpg To make this easier I used a longer LTD post in that spot (available as a Model T or Model A part) though the standard post should also work. Needed a longer LTD there anyway for my 'soft' sidecurtains: http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/TR3/Curtains.jpg http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/TR3/Inside.jpg Geo From dave at ranteer.com Sat Jun 23 20:39:33 2012 From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave) Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2012 21:39:33 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Tonneaus In-Reply-To: <1340497583.67008.YahooMailRC@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <1340421887.7341.YahooMailRC@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <1340497583.67008.YahooMailRC@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <09ED6D635518462A972E10EF1A835D5E@ranteer.local> I would like to know more as well. I see the front and rear zippers; what is on the top and bottom? http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/TR3/Curtains.jpg http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/TR3/Inside.jpg From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com Sat Jun 23 20:47:15 2012 From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad) Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2012 19:47:15 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 Dash Vinyl Recovering - What's the best Glue to use???? Message-ID: <1340506035.81673.YahooMailNeo@web120503.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> List- I'm getting ready to put new vinyl on a TR3 dash. What is the best glue to use? Thanks, Chad in Tusla From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Jun 24 07:18:02 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2012 09:18:02 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 Dash Vinyl Recovering - What's the best Glue to use???? Message-ID: <116f4.6a079745.3d186d8a@cs.com> I used contact adheasive. Follow the directions and apply it to both surfaces and allow to dry 15 minutes or so. A little heat helps conforming to the recesses at the openings for the glove box and the center gauge panel. And around the rolled edges. I also used spring loaded clamps and some spreader pieces there. Only after the vinyl was secure did I cut the openings for the speedo and tach. Dave In a message dated 6/23/2012 9:49:49 PM Central Daylight Time, triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com writes: > I'm getting ready to put new vinyl on a TR3 dash. What is the best > glue to use? From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Sun Jun 24 11:18:38 2012 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2012 10:18:38 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Tonneaus In-Reply-To: <09ED6D635518462A972E10EF1A835D5E@ranteer.local> References: <1340421887.7341.YahooMailRC@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <1340497583.67008.YahooMailRC@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <09ED6D635518462A972E10EF1A835D5E@ranteer.local> Message-ID: Dave - The top front corner has an elastic loop that hooks over the outer most tenax fastener along the top of the windscreen. The corner of the top then goes on that fastener (as usual) and thus holds the loop in place. As shown in the prior photos there are a pair of straps that hook around the top bows and are secured with velcro -- this lets them be adjusted to make things snug. The rest of the fasteners are just the existing lift-the-dots on the door & one on the dash. There is a flap along the rear edge that captures the vertical edge of the top. There are also some rare earth magnets sewn in the lower rear flap. Something has to be undone to exit the car and done up after entering. The easiest things are the LTDs on the door as the window zips open (zipper on each side and velcro along the top. The best part is that the pair of 'curtains' fit in a single Harbor Freight 15" bag. I have the stock curtains and, of course, would always pack them in the boot for long trips even when there was 'almost' no chance of rain. They take a lot of space in the bottom of the boot and you have to be so careful with what you put in on top of them. A friend who does a lot of long distance travel in his TR3A (and is pretty crafty with an industrial sewing machine) had made a set of the soft curtains for his car. I admired his work and he offered to make a pair for me. I still haven't had the chance to try them in the rain but at least they greatly simplify packing for road trips. Oh, I did ask if he would ever make them for sale -- alas, no. He said if he wanted to work he wouldn't have retired. He is a retired rocket engineer and has driven and restored TRs for many decades. Also restores old TR radios & skydives. Only guy I know with a mountain unicycle. Geo Since attachments are stripped... links to the rest of the pix: http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/TR3/DS1.jpg http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/TR3/Tenax.jpg http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/TR3/PSideView-1.jpg http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/TR3/Bagged-1.jpg On Sat, Jun 23, 2012 at 7:39 PM, Dave wrote: > I would like to know more as well. I see the front and rear zippers; what > is on the top and bottom? > > > http://i1214.photobucket.com/**albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/TR3/**Curtains.jpg > > http://i1214.photobucket.com/**albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/TR3/**Inside.jpg [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of DS 1.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Bagged.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Tenax.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of P Side View.JPG] From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Sun Jun 24 11:25:42 2012 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2012 10:25:42 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Dash Vinyl Recovering - What's the best Glue to use???? In-Reply-To: <116f4.6a079745.3d186d8a@cs.com> References: <116f4.6a079745.3d186d8a@cs.com> Message-ID: On Sun, Jun 24, 2012 at 6:18 AM, wrote: > I used contact adheasive... Me too though for this and some other large areas I found the 3M spray contact adhesive easiest to work with -- with the spray you can get a thin even coat. You can still use the bottle stuff for the harder to hold bits where the edges wrap over. As I recall I used 3M 08088 though they make a variety of formulae. Geo From wbeech at flash.net Sun Jun 24 12:03:06 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2012 13:03:06 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Dash Vinyl Recovering - What's the best Glue to use???? In-Reply-To: <116f4.6a079745.3d186d8a@cs.com> References: <116f4.6a079745.3d186d8a@cs.com> Message-ID: <552A2EC7-FCF0-4591-A1DC-39F82FDF12F9@flash.net> I have been wondering about recovering my dash too. The TR3B dash is covered in some sort of sealed plastic, not vinyl like my '58 dash. What it's the best way to get this off? Has anyone tried powder coating instead of the vinyl/plastic? Sent from mobile Bill On Jun 24, 2012, at 8:18 AM, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > I used contact adheasive. Follow the directions and apply it to both > surfaces and allow to dry 15 minutes or so. A little heat helps conforming to > the recesses at the openings for the glove box and the center gauge panel. > And around the rolled edges. I also used spring loaded clamps and some > spreader pieces there. > > Only after the vinyl was secure did I cut the openings for the speedo and > tach. > > Dave > > In a message dated 6/23/2012 9:49:49 PM Central Daylight Time, > triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com writes: >> I'm getting ready to put new vinyl on a TR3 dash. What is the best >> glue to use? > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From tjwakeman at gmail.com Sun Jun 24 12:24:35 2012 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2012 11:24:35 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Dash Vinyl Recovering - What's the best Glue to use???? In-Reply-To: References: <116f4.6a079745.3d186d8a@cs.com> Message-ID: <4FE75B63.6020509@gmail.com> On 6/24/12 10:25 AM, Geo Hahn wrote: > On Sun, Jun 24, 2012 at 6:18 AM, wrote: > > Me too though for this and some other large areas I found the 3M spray > contact adhesive easiest to work with -- with the spray you can get a thin > even coat. You can still use the bottle stuff for the harder to hold bits > where the edges wrap over. > I used 3M contact adhesive as well. I also covered my instrument panel in 3 or 4 stages a day apart for each stage I didn't want to break any part loose in the bends because it was not quite full hard. I did the same things with the cockpit capping pieces as well. Getting the leather right on the cockpit dog legs was a feat. Teriann From tjwakeman at gmail.com Sun Jun 24 12:53:41 2012 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2012 11:53:41 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumphest 2012 Message-ID: <4FE76235.9030305@gmail.com> If anyone wanting to come to Triumphest 2012 is thinking of not coming because of costs, please think again. The older motels along route 66 in Flagstaff can be as low as half the price as Little America and only about 10 minutes away. If you are towing a TR behind and RV, the East Flagstaff KOA is about 15 minutes away from Triumphest. The gas stations are about 10 cents a gallon more expensive along I 40 than along 66 and the motels are a lot more expensive along I40. The cheap gas stations are now about $3.38/gal in Flagstaff. If you are coming in from the West you want to fill in Barstow. It will be your cheapest gas between there and Arizona. Try to bypass Needles for gas. About 10 miles East of Needles on I40 at the highway 95 turn off is gas at least a dollar a gallon cheaper. If you plan to overnight at Laughlin, gas is WAY cheaper across the river in Bull Head City and Highway 68 is a straighter shot between Bull Head City and Kingman. And don't forget Grand Canyon South Rim is only about 80 miles North West of Triumphest. Teriann From mark at bradakis.com Sun Jun 24 13:48:58 2012 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2012 13:48:58 -0600 Subject: [TR] Gee, I didn't know Message-ID: <4FE76F2A.7010405@bradakis.com> Finally got around to looking at the latest issue of The Vintage Triumph this morning while sitting on the porch enjoying my coffee. I am a bit surprised at how few of the trivia questions I could answer, after being around the cars for over 30 years! Must be because it has been so long since I've been to a VTR meet, never been to Triumphest and haven't had a Triumph on the road for some time. I gotta quit spending so much time in front of the computer and get my ass in gear! Well, I do have to keep Team.Net going helping all of you to keep your Triumphs running! mjb. From spitlist at cox.net Sun Jun 24 14:03:42 2012 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2012 13:03:42 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumphest 2012 In-Reply-To: <4FE76235.9030305@gmail.com> References: <4FE76235.9030305@gmail.com> Message-ID: <9E482FCAADF34F62B129ED2A3D5F9719@Vista> I'll be there! -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TeriAnn J. Wakeman Sent: Sunday, June 24, 2012 11:54 AM To: Triumph List Subject: [TR] Triumphest 2012 If anyone wanting to come to Triumphest 2012 is thinking of not coming because of costs, please think again. The older motels along route 66 in Flagstaff can be as low as half the price as Little America and only about 10 minutes away. If you are towing a TR behind and RV, the East Flagstaff KOA is about 15 minutes away from Triumphest. The gas stations are about 10 cents a gallon more expensive along I 40 than along 66 and the motels are a lot more expensive along I40. The cheap gas stations are now about $3.38/gal in Flagstaff. If you are coming in from the West you want to fill in Barstow. It will be your cheapest gas between there and Arizona. Try to bypass Needles for gas. About 10 miles East of Needles on I40 at the highway 95 turn off is gas at least a dollar a gallon cheaper. If you plan to overnight at Laughlin, gas is WAY cheaper across the river in Bull Head City and Highway 68 is a straighter shot between Bull Head City and Kingman. And don't forget Grand Canyon South Rim is only about 80 miles North West of Triumphest. Teriann ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net From davewillner at pa.net Sun Jun 24 14:11:14 2012 From: davewillner at pa.net (davewillner) Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2012 16:11:14 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Dash Vinyl Recovering - What's the best Glue to use???? References: <116f4.6a079745.3d186d8a@cs.com> <552A2EC7-FCF0-4591-A1DC-39F82FDF12F9@flash.net> Message-ID: I stripped the same stuff off mine last summer, I used a heat gun and a putty knife...takes a little while, but pretty easy. Dave Willner ----- Original Message ----- From: "Wbeech" To: Cc: Sent: Sunday, June 24, 2012 2:03 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Dash Vinyl Recovering - What's the best Glue to use???? >I have been wondering about recovering my dash too. The TR3B dash is >covered > in some sort of sealed plastic, not vinyl like my '58 dash. What it's the > best way to get this off? Has anyone tried powder coating instead of the > vinyl/plastic? > > Sent from mobile Bill > > On Jun 24, 2012, at 8:18 AM, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > >> I used contact adheasive. Follow the directions and apply it to both >> surfaces and allow to dry 15 minutes or so. A little heat helps >> conforming > to >> the recesses at the openings for the glove box and the center gauge >> panel. >> And around the rolled edges. I also used spring loaded clamps and some >> spreader pieces there. >> >> Only after the vinyl was secure did I cut the openings for the speedo and >> tach. >> >> Dave >> >> In a message dated 6/23/2012 9:49:49 PM Central Daylight Time, >> triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com writes: >>> I'm getting ready to put new vinyl on a TR3 dash. What is the best >>> glue to use? >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/davewillner at pa.net From allegrorover at mac.com Sun Jun 24 18:55:04 2012 From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio) Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2012 20:55:04 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumphest 2012 In-Reply-To: <4FE76235.9030305@gmail.com> References: <4FE76235.9030305@gmail.com> Message-ID: Terri, I must say thank you for all those that are going to Triumphfest, sadly we are not going to make it. But the information that you gathered is terrific! Just the kind of info that makes those long hauls a little more bearable. When we had the VTR here on Jekyll, I wish I had done something similar for all those travelers, next time though I will give my best effort. Someday we'll meet and I hope to be thank you personally, (I have used your info on TR3 restoration as well). Sinceerely Tony Cascio 58 TR3A TS27093L allegrorover at mac.com www.triumphowners.com/1489 From lherault at bu.edu Sun Jun 24 19:24:17 2012 From: lherault at bu.edu (Ron L'Herault) Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2012 21:24:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] exhaust smell in car Message-ID: <007a01cd5271$3dd76200$b9862600$@edu> The girlfriend mentioned that I smell of car exhaust when using the TR-6. I was wondering if putting downturn tailpipe extensions on might help. As it stands, the pipes end about even with the outer edge of the rear bumper which looks "right" to me, but I seem to recall that the original set up had longer pipes. Anyone been there/done that? Does it help? Where'd you find the extensions. I have not been able find 1 7/8" diameter tips yet. Ron L From aljlthomson at charter.net Sun Jun 24 19:48:28 2012 From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson) Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2012 21:48:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] exhaust smell in car In-Reply-To: <007a01cd5271$3dd76200$b9862600$@edu> References: <007a01cd5271$3dd76200$b9862600$@edu> Message-ID: <001001cd5274$9e25be10$da713a30$@charter.net> Ron - We had the same problem on our TR-6. We could actually smell engine/exhaust fragrance in the cabin. I tried some extensions on the exhaust tips and they made no difference. The problem was a disconnected hose on the charcoal canister. I'm guessing that we were getting some crankcase vapors in the car. Now all we smell is gasoline, gear oil, and all of those other typical LBC smells. Now I'll get in trouble - was your girlfriend's comment an observation or a complaint? Just kidding!! Alex Thomson -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ron L'Herault Sent: Sunday, June 24, 2012 9:24 PM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] exhaust smell in car The girlfriend mentioned that I smell of car exhaust when using the TR-6. I was wondering if putting downturn tailpipe extensions on might help. As it stands, the pipes end about even with the outer edge of the rear bumper which looks "right" to me, but I seem to recall that the original set up had longer pipes. Anyone been there/done that? Does it help? Where'd you find the extensions. I have not been able find 1 7/8" diameter tips yet. Ron L ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Sun Jun 24 20:01:58 2012 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sun, 24 Jun 2012 19:01:58 -0700 Subject: [TR] exhaust smell in car In-Reply-To: <007a01cd5271$3dd76200$b9862600$@edu> References: <007a01cd5271$3dd76200$b9862600$@edu> Message-ID: I convinced my girlfriend that is what real men smell like. We've been married for 37 years so she either bought it, is just playing along or has lost her sense of smell. Okay, not the latter as when I come in from the garage she can sniff and tell me which car I have been working on. TR3s & 4s have an 8" aluminum extension that gets the tailpipe end out past the body a bit -- not downturned but 1 7/8" I.D. sounds right. Geo On Sun, Jun 24, 2012 at 6:24 PM, Ron L'Herault wrote: > The girlfriend mentioned that I smell of car exhaust when using the TR-6. > I > was wondering if putting downturn tailpipe extensions on might help. As it > stands, the pipes end about even with the outer edge of the rear bumper > which looks "right" to me, but I seem to recall that the original set up > had > longer pipes. Anyone been there/done that? Does it help? Where'd you > find the extensions. I have not been able find 1 7/8" diameter tips yet. > > Ron L > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com From mmarr at notwires.com Mon Jun 25 07:21:44 2012 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2012 08:21:44 -0500 Subject: [TR] Triumphest 2012 In-Reply-To: <4FE76235.9030305@gmail.com> References: <4FE76235.9030305@gmail.com> Message-ID: <999BBF2EA7DE451188045EA3E4363E94@PhiSchLSpare101> TerriAnn said: > > And don't forget Grand Canyon South Rim is only about 80 miles North > West of Triumphest. > I took the train to the South Rim - http://www.thetrain.com/ A great experience and steam is back! Mike From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Mon Jun 25 18:25:24 2012 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2012 17:25:24 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] dum dum Message-ID: <1340670324.42023.YahooMailNeo@web65509.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> List, How many people have used "dum dum" between fenders and body when they attach the fenders? I've seen rolls of the stuff advertised and am wondering about the need for that sealing between the body parts. gary n. From paradisemusicnc at gmail.com Mon Jun 25 18:46:24 2012 From: paradisemusicnc at gmail.com (Bryan Loy) Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2012 20:46:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] Still looking for gauge brackets for 71 TR6 Message-ID: Anyone have a bracket for TR6 speedo/tach? Thanks Bryan From mark at bradakis.com Mon Jun 25 19:54:10 2012 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2012 19:54:10 -0600 Subject: [TR] Still looking for gauge brackets for 71 TR6 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4FE91642.20701@bradakis.com> I'll be heading out to the garage soon, will take a look. I probably HAVE them. FINDING them is a different story. I have a pair of new TR4-6 outer tie rod ends sitting on my desk here, will those help? mjb. From peterara at msn.com Mon Jun 25 20:25:10 2012 From: peterara at msn.com (Peter Arakelian) Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2012 19:25:10 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumphest 2012 Message-ID: Teriann, great update on where to get gas. I am trying to drum up interest for those going from S. CA. to caravan in a group that will overnight Wednesday in Laughlin, cheap rooms & food, then push on from there. One of the BIG reasons is to take one of the last, best stretches of Route 66 from Kingman to Flagstaff. Peter Arakelian From glemon at neb.rr.com Mon Jun 25 20:59:58 2012 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2012 21:59:58 -0500 Subject: [TR] Still looking for gauge brackets for 71 TR6 In-Reply-To: <4FE91642.20701@bradakis.com> References: <4FE91642.20701@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <884252BB73594882801B2A235D060D01@GregPC> I'll take a quick look in the basement, I had most of an extra 4A at one time, I think they would be the same. Greg Lemon From glemon at neb.rr.com Mon Jun 25 22:05:04 2012 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2012 23:05:04 -0500 Subject: [TR] Still looking for gauge brackets for 71 TR6 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5381E562D50E4C308E88DBA87A57E8E6@GregPC> are you looking for a single bracket?, I found one, if you are looking for more and nothing comes up you could use it as a pattern too, let me know where to send it. Regards, Greg Lemon ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bryan Loy" To: Sent: Monday, June 25, 2012 7:46 PM Subject: [TR] Still looking for gauge brackets for 71 TR6 > Anyone have a bracket for TR6 speedo/tach? Thanks > Bryan > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/glemon at neb.rr.com From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com Mon Jun 25 22:13:40 2012 From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly) Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2012 21:13:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumphest 2012 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <002001cd5352$11fc8d40$35f5a7c0$@rr.com> Hi Peter, Sounds like a great trip. A little hot, but fun. The road between Oatman and Kingman is twisty and fun. Let us know more as we get closer, and my wife and I might join you in Laughlin. Johnnie San Diego > > Teriann, great update on where to get gas. > I am trying to drum up interest for those going from S. CA. to caravan > in a > group that will overnight Wednesday in Laughlin, cheap rooms & food, > then push > on from there. > One of the BIG reasons is to take one of the last, best stretches of > Route 66 > from Kingman to Flagstaff. > > Peter Arakelian From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Tue Jun 26 05:14:07 2012 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2012 07:14:07 -0400 Subject: [TR] Need to move a car from NE Ohio to Seattle WA Message-ID: List I need to move my sonbs car from NE Ohio to Seattle WA. so that I can have more space for my TR. Anyone headed that way? I can deliver it to as far west as Chicago area if need be. JVV From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Jun 26 05:54:21 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2012 07:54:21 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] dum dum Message-ID: <5d28.4f11ca6e.3d1afced@cs.com> I use it profusely. My TR6 windshield leaked like a sieve. I found that although the seal on the top was doing its job and sealing up against the aluminum finisher just fine the seal between the aluminum finisher and the windshield frame had failed. After replacing the dum dum there the leaks disappeared. I used calk at the rear fender seams (before I bought my supply of dum dum) to stop the water from wicking up at that joint. But more importantly I painted everything including the inner fenders and all the mating surfaces. This is not what I would call a controlled experiment but I have no evidence of rust at the seams after 16 years. The seam at the rear scuttle is a perfect storm for rust. It is a three layer sandwich of steel and water is free to infiltrate, normally. I attacked the problem by painting the flanges and all surfaces that are not exposed after assembly with a couple layers of rattlecan paint and sealed the joint to block out water and so far, so good. I painted the inside surfaces on the front fenders, too since they get wet no matter what you do. Dum dum is great stuff and available at any autobody supply. Ask for "Dum Dum." I've used rope window calk and although it will work in a pinch and is available at your local hardware store it doesn't have the same adhesive properties as dum dum. Use the dum dum. You'll thank your self later. Dave In a message dated 6/25/2012 7:34:01 PM Central Daylight Time, nafzigerg at yahoo.com writes: > How many people have used "dum dum" between fenders and body when they > attach the fenders? I've seen rolls of the stuff advertised and am > wondering > about the need for that sealing between the body parts. From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Jun 26 06:09:19 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2012 08:09:19 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Triumphest 2012 Message-ID: <61c1.9e6e8fa.3d1b006f@cs.com> That's a nice stretch but the road to die for is the section between Oatman and Kingman. Secure your load. Dave In a message dated 6/25/2012 9:44:05 PM Central Daylight Time, peterara at msn.com writes: > One of the BIG reasons is to take one of the last, best stretches of > Route 66 > from Kingman to Flagstaff. From tjwakeman at gmail.com Tue Jun 26 07:43:57 2012 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2012 06:43:57 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumphest 2012 In-Reply-To: <61c1.9e6e8fa.3d1b006f@cs.com> References: <61c1.9e6e8fa.3d1b006f@cs.com> Message-ID: <4FE9BC9D.1070608@gmail.com> On 6/26/12 5:09 AM, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > That's a nice stretch but the road to die for is the section between Oatman > and Kingman. Speaking of "to die for" bring at least a gallon of drinking water per person to drink per day when crossing the Mojave desert. The air is hot and dry and you need to keep hydrated. Take frequent drinks as you travel, wear chap stick and you will arrive at Triumphest ready to have fun and not needing to spend a couple days on your back recovering from dehydration. Crossing the desert in summer is actually a good time to have the top erected. The hot dry air & sun can be brutal if you cross during the day with the top down. Flagstaff has the coolest summers of the state. Usually the end of September will be mid 70's and sunny. Ideal Roadster weather. And for those who want to say Hi, mine will be the signal red TR3A (yes it was one of the few that actually came red from the factory) with hard top, an FOT badge and an attitude. And if anyone just happens to be at the Flagstaff Route 66 Days car show Sept 7-9, my TR3 is entered. The streets of downtown Flagstaff will be closed on Saturday when over 400 cars will be on display. As far as I know so far Triumph will be represented by my TR3 and a TR6. TeriAnn www.tr3a.info From markvaden at gmail.com Tue Jun 26 10:03:11 2012 From: markvaden at gmail.com (Mark Vaden) Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2012 09:03:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] tr4 hood hinges Message-ID: Hi, Does anyone have a set of reasonable condition hood hinges for a TR4 that they would sell me? Thanks, Mark From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Tue Jun 26 10:42:45 2012 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl-TR) Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2012 12:42:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumphest 2012 In-Reply-To: <4FE9BC9D.1070608@gmail.com> References: <61c1.9e6e8fa.3d1b006f@cs.com> <4FE9BC9D.1070608@gmail.com> Message-ID: <000801cd53ba$b6df6a90$249e3fb0$@verizon.net> If you do drive across the desert - early morning - even overnight will make the trip a little more enjoyable. Sunrise will be awesome... Also, in addition to the gallon of water for yourself.. pack a couple gallons of radiator coolant as a precaution. If you need to add some, be sure to keep the engine running as you fill...... No need blowing a gasket or worse - warping the head.... BTDT in 1966 on old 66 .... I didn't have a top - wore a long sleeve white hoodie (before they were common) and a ton of sunscreen. Still had a very rosy nose when I got to Amarillo and points east. Ah, memories of my youth..... -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TeriAnn J. Wakeman Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2012 9:44 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphest 2012 On 6/26/12 5:09 AM, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > That's a nice stretch but the road to die for is the section between > Oatman and Kingman. Speaking of "to die for" bring at least a gallon of drinking water per person to drink per day when crossing the Mojave desert. The air is hot and dry and you need to keep hydrated. Take frequent drinks as you travel, wear chap stick and you will arrive at Triumphest ready to have fun and not needing to spend a couple days on your back recovering from dehydration. Crossing the desert in summer is actually a good time to have the top erected. The hot dry air & sun can be brutal if you cross during the day with the top down. Flagstaff has the coolest summers of the state. Usually the end of September will be mid 70's and sunny. Ideal Roadster weather. And for those who want to say Hi, mine will be the signal red TR3A (yes it was one of the few that actually came red from the factory) with hard top, an FOT badge and an attitude. And if anyone just happens to be at the Flagstaff Route 66 Days car show Sept 7-9, my TR3 is entered. The streets of downtown Flagstaff will be closed on Saturday when over 400 cars will be on display. As far as I know so far Triumph will be represented by my TR3 and a TR6. TeriAnn www.tr3a.info ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk Tue Jun 26 12:18:46 2012 From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2012 19:18:46 +0100 (BST) Subject: [TR] dum dum In-Reply-To: <1340670324.42023.YahooMailNeo@web65509.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <1340670324.42023.YahooMailNeo@web65509.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1340734726.39017.YahooMailNeo@web29401.mail.ird.yahoo.com> I'll echo Dave Massey's applause as to the properties of 'DumDum.' For the purist, no Standard-Triumph enthusiast should ever be without it. We used tons of the stuff at the factory - as did people like Healey, MG and Rootes Group. I'm surprised Andy Mace hasn't entered the fray in its support as many hundreds of Heralds left the factory with more than their fair share of the stuff on board. Just a word of warning. Don't attempt to apply it when you're wearing cricket flannels. The Brits on this list will surely understand what I'm driving at :) Jonmac ________________________________ From: Gary Nafziger To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" Sent: Tuesday, 26 June 2012, 1:25 Subject: [TR] dum dum >List, >How many people have used "dum dum" between fenders and body when they >attach the fenders? I've seen rolls of the stuff advertised and am wondering >about the need for that sealing between the body parts. > >gary n. > >** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk From dave at ranteer.com Tue Jun 26 13:43:21 2012 From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave) Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2012 14:43:21 -0500 Subject: [TR] Triumphest 2012 In-Reply-To: <000801cd53ba$b6df6a90$249e3fb0$@verizon.net> References: <61c1.9e6e8fa.3d1b006f@cs.com> <4FE9BC9D.1070608@gmail.com> <000801cd53ba$b6df6a90$249e3fb0$@verizon.net> Message-ID: <948F33BFA1854A459B2FDCE3F69C1194@ranteer.local> If you are anywhere near Holbrook AZ be sure to see the Teepee motel, very close to 66 and I 40 we stayed there. loved it!!! From schoonmaker at windstream.net Tue Jun 26 14:12:39 2012 From: schoonmaker at windstream.net (Jim & Joanne Schoonmaker) Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2012 16:12:39 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3's in Auction Saturday 6/30/12 near Syracuse, NY Message-ID: <007a01cd53d8$096ecc70$1c4c6550$@windstream.net> Just found this listing in our local weekly "Hi Neighbor". Don't know any more than what's listed at the Auctioneer's site: Special Auctioning @ 11 A.M.: Avion Travelcade 22'l Aluminum Travel Trailer 9/74 - 74-T-25106; Aluminum fishing boat w/35HP Johnson Seahorse O/B; 2 Aluminum fishing boats, 1978 Vanagon Camper, wooden sailboat & trailer, Allis Chalmers tractor, Chevy Pickup, Antique VW Van, Cub Cadet LT1045 Riding lawn tractor, MGB convertible, 2-1969 VW Camper Van, 3 Triumph TR3 convertible roadsters, 2 Austin Healey's 1002 convertible roadsters; Suzuki motorcycle, 1977 Ford F700 Bucket Truck. See http://www.brzostek.com/cgi-bin/htmlos.cgi/04158.1.911203868311180433 for listing and pictures. NFI or affiliation. Maybe somebody else knows who the owner is.... Jim S '79 Spit '74 TR6 From agraham at execulink.com Tue Jun 26 14:41:11 2012 From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham) Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2012 16:41:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] Dum Dum? Message-ID: <4FEA1E67.4050302@execulink.com> Hello List: Not to belabour this topic too much, is Dum Dum the same as what our body shops refer to as "seam sealer"? If so, have used much of this stuff to in fact seal seams and all those small openings that seem to crop up all over the car. Comes in a tube to be used in a caulking gun. Am I on the same page here? Thanks! Angelo Graham From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Jun 26 15:00:03 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2012 17:00:03 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] dum dum Message-ID: <604d6.67181fbd.3d1b7cd3@cs.com> Crickey! Now you tell me. In a message dated 6/26/2012 1:41:39 PM Central Daylight Time, flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk writes: > Just a word of warning. Don't attempt to apply it when you're > wearing cricket flannels. The Brits on this list will surely understand > what > I'm driving at :) From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Jun 26 15:08:47 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2012 17:08:47 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Triumphest 2012 Message-ID: <60960.da4b3dc.3d1b7edf@cs.com> WigWam Hotel. Just a few hours out of Flagstaff so if you are coming from the East, spend the night. Also, don't miss the Painted Desert Petrified Forest National Park. Not to be missed. Oh, and Meteor Crater! Dave In a message dated 6/26/2012 2:52:01 PM Central Daylight Time, dave at ranteer.com writes: > If you are anywhere near Holbrook AZ be sure to see the Teepee motel, > very > close to 66 and I 40 From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk Tue Jun 26 15:47:46 2012 From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2012 22:47:46 +0100 (BST) Subject: [TR] Dum Dum? In-Reply-To: <4FEA1E67.4050302@execulink.com> References: <4FEA1E67.4050302@execulink.com> Message-ID: <1340747266.19699.YahooMailNeo@web29405.mail.ird.yahoo.com> > "Comes in a tube to be used in a caulking gun." On my word, what progress on the packaging side. It used to come in a large lump, coiled like a snake about to strike - and the coils were separated by thin pieces of translusent paper that didn't separate it at all. All the paper did was to tear into small pieces and stick to your fingers as you kneeded the compound to make it warm and pliable. Then they put it in a tin which required you to dig it out with your fingernails and an old (or new) screwdriver and that did those who favoured reasonable manicures a power of good. But maybe I'm talking of the bargain basement UK bulk packaged version where convenience and ease of use didn't even enter the product scenario..... Jonmac From stan.foster at hp.com Tue Jun 26 16:00:12 2012 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2012 22:00:12 +0000 Subject: [TR] Dum Dum? In-Reply-To: <4FEA1E67.4050302@execulink.com> References: <4FEA1E67.4050302@execulink.com> Message-ID: Seam sealer is applied over seams (eg where two panels overlap and are likely spot welded). It keeps moisture out of the seam and is typically brushed on and allowed to set up before painting. Dum Dum and its ilk is used between panels eg when mounting fenders onto the tub. Stan -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Angelo Graham Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2012 4:41 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Dum Dum? Hello List: Not to belabour this topic too much, is Dum Dum the same as what our body shops refer to as "seam sealer"? From don.hiscock at gmail.com Tue Jun 26 16:11:10 2012 From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2012 17:11:10 -0500 Subject: [TR] Dum Dum? In-Reply-To: <1340747266.19699.YahooMailNeo@web29405.mail.ird.yahoo.com> References: <4FEA1E67.4050302@execulink.com> <1340747266.19699.YahooMailNeo@web29405.mail.ird.yahoo.com> Message-ID: John, things haven't changed all that much... http://3mcollision.com/3m-strip-calk-08578-black.html Don Saint Louis MO 1962 TR3B TSF202L On 6/26/12, John Macartney wrote: > > "Comes in a tube to be used in a caulking gun." > > On my word, what progress > on the packaging side. It used to come in a large lump, coiled like a snake > about to strike - and the coils were separated by thin pieces of > translusent > paper that didn't separate it at all. All the paper did was to tear into > small > pieces and stick to your fingers as you kneeded the compound to make it > warm > and pliable. Then they put it in a tin which required you to dig it out > with > your fingernails and an old (or new) screwdriver and that did those who > favoured reasonable manicures a power of good. > But maybe I'm talking of the > bargain basement UK bulk packaged version where convenience and ease of use > didn't even enter the product scenario..... > > Jonmac > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Tue Jun 26 16:24:46 2012 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2012 15:24:46 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumphest 2012 In-Reply-To: <60960.da4b3dc.3d1b7edf@cs.com> References: <60960.da4b3dc.3d1b7edf@cs.com> Message-ID: At the Wigwam: http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/2009%20Arizona%20Roadrunner/WigWam1.jpg Every 3 or 4 years our annual (October) Southwest tour gets near enough to Holbrook that we stay at the Wigwam. We book all the TeePees and they give us the run of the place: http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/2011%20Arizona%20Roadrunner/WigWam12.jpg Still owned & operated by the original family that built it 60ish years ago. Geo On Tue, Jun 26, 2012 at 2:08 PM, wrote: > WigWam Hotel. Just a few hours out of Flagstaff so if you are coming from > the East, spend the night.... > > In a message dated 6/26/2012 2:52:01 PM Central Daylight Time, > dave at ranteer.com writes: > > If you are anywhere near Holbrook AZ be sure to see the Teepee motel, > > very close to 66 and I 40 From dave1massey at cs.com Tue Jun 26 16:32:56 2012 From: dave1massey at cs.com (Dave Massey) Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2012 18:32:56 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Dum Dum? In-Reply-To: <4FEA1E67.4050302@execulink.com> References: <4FEA1E67.4050302@execulink.com> Message-ID: <8CF2202C458E9B2-1F94-1F827@webmail-d162.sysops.aol.com> No. Seam sealed is an adhesive, sometimes a polyurethane, that has a high viscosity and is injected into a seam. Some are paintable. I've used Fusor brand products since my local autopaint guy says that is what the manufacturers use. Dum dum is a rope caulk much like window caulk but with better adhesive properties. But dum dum allows for easy disassembly whereas seam sealed will hold parts together almost as good as welding. Dave Massey -----Original Message----- From: agraham at execulink.com To: triumphs Sent: Tue, Jun 26, 2012 12:31 pm Subject: Re: [TR] Dum Dum? Hello List: Not to belabour this topic too much, is Dum Dum the same as what our body shops refer to as "seam sealer"? If so, have used much of this stuff to in fact seal seams and all those small openings that seem to crop up all over the car. Comes in a tube to be used in a caulking gun. Am I on the same page here? Thanks! Angelo Graham ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Tue Jun 26 16:54:24 2012 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2012 18:54:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3's in Auction Saturday 6/30/12 near Syracuse, NY In-Reply-To: <007a01cd53d8$096ecc70$1c4c6550$@windstream.net> References: <007a01cd53d8$096ecc70$1c4c6550$@windstream.net> Message-ID: Wow the red tr3 has a supercharger on it! On Jun 26, 2012 5:01 PM, "Jim & Joanne Schoonmaker" < schoonmaker at windstream.net> wrote: > Just found this listing in our local weekly "Hi Neighbor". Don't know any > more than what's listed at the Auctioneer's site: > > Special Auctioning @ 11 A.M.: Avion Travelcade 22'l Aluminum Travel Trailer > 9/74 - 74-T-25106; Aluminum fishing boat w/35HP Johnson Seahorse O/B; 2 > Aluminum fishing boats, 1978 Vanagon Camper, wooden sailboat & trailer, > Allis Chalmers tractor, Chevy Pickup, Antique VW Van, Cub Cadet LT1045 > Riding lawn tractor, MGB convertible, 2-1969 VW Camper Van, 3 Triumph TR3 > convertible roadsters, 2 Austin Healey's 1002 convertible roadsters; Suzuki > motorcycle, 1977 Ford F700 Bucket Truck. > > See http://www.brzostek.com/cgi-bin/htmlos.cgi/04158.1.911203868311180433 > for listing and pictures. > > NFI or affiliation. Maybe somebody else knows who the owner is.... > > Jim S > '79 Spit > '74 TR6 > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ccsimonsen at gmail.com From allenhess at mgcarclub.com Tue Jun 26 17:34:44 2012 From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess) Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2012 19:34:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] dum dum In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <858BA116-C8DB-4576-9D4F-E4D030EF90A8@mgcarclub.com> I used a 3M equivalent. From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Tue Jun 26 17:53:39 2012 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2012 16:53:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3's in Auction Saturday 6/30/12 near Syracuse, NY In-Reply-To: References: <007a01cd53d8$096ecc70$1c4c6550$@windstream.net> Message-ID: Some interesting stuff there in addition to the TRs, Bay Window VWs and Healey. At least 7 Bandai tin TR3s on one shelf. Geo On Tue, Jun 26, 2012 at 3:54 PM, Chris Simo wrote: > Wow the red tr3 has a supercharger on it! > On Jun 26, 2012 5:01 PM, "Jim & Joanne Schoonmaker" < > schoonmaker at windstream.net> wrote: > > > Just found this listing in our local weekly "Hi Neighbor". Don't know any > > more than what's listed at the Auctioneer's site: From zoboherald at aol.com Tue Jun 26 19:53:14 2012 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace) Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2012 21:53:14 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] TR3's in Auction Saturday 6/30/12 near Syracuse, NY In-Reply-To: <007a01cd53d8$096ecc70$1c4c6550$@windstream.net> References: <007a01cd53d8$096ecc70$1c4c6550$@windstream.net> Message-ID: <8CF221EBF916B61-808-19A4D@webmail-d075.sysops.aol.com> The name "Glenn Greene" is very familiar. I think a: he was a long-time VTR member and b: it's the same person I sold a very late 3A tub (and registration) to about 15 years ago. If so, he was on this list (or british-cars or the vtr team.net list) at one time. --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us -----Original Message----- From: Jim & Joanne Schoonmaker To: triumphs Sent: Tue, Jun 26, 2012 5:01 pm Subject: [TR] TR3's in Auction Saturday 6/30/12 near Syracuse, NY Just found this listing in our local weekly "Hi Neighbor". Don't know any more than what's listed at the Auctioneer's site: [...] NFI or affiliation. Maybe somebody else knows who the owner is.... From zoboherald at aol.com Tue Jun 26 19:54:57 2012 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace) Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2012 21:54:57 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] dum dum In-Reply-To: <1340734726.39017.YahooMailNeo@web29401.mail.ird.yahoo.com> References: <1340670324.42023.YahooMailNeo@web65509.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> <1340734726.39017.YahooMailNeo@web29401.mail.ird.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8CF221EFD00D56E-808-19A69@webmail-d075.sysops.aol.com> Sorry I'm late, John; you know I do support anything that holds Heralds together! ;) --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us -----Original Message----- From: John Macartney To: Gary Nafziger ; triumphs Sent: Tue, Jun 26, 2012 2:42 pm Subject: Re: [TR] dum dum I'll echo Dave Massey's applause as to the properties of 'DumDum.' For the purist, no Standard-Triumph enthusiast should ever be without it. We used tons of the stuff at the factory - as did people like Healey, MG and Rootes Group. I'm surprised Andy Mace hasn't entered the fray in its support as many hundreds of Heralds left the factory with more than their fair share of the stuff on board. From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Tue Jun 26 20:02:37 2012 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl-TR) Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2012 22:02:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3's in Auction Saturday 6/30/12 near Syracuse, NY In-Reply-To: References: <007a01cd53d8$096ecc70$1c4c6550$@windstream.net> Message-ID: <000001cd5408$ed6a7160$c83f5420$@verizon.net> Sure wish I was in NY. C -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Simo Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2012 6:54 PM To: Jim & Joanne Schoonmaker Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3's in Auction Saturday 6/30/12 near Syracuse, NY Wow the red tr3 has a supercharger on it! On Jun 26, 2012 5:01 PM, "Jim & Joanne Schoonmaker" < schoonmaker at windstream.net> wrote: > Just found this listing in our local weekly "Hi Neighbor". Don't know > any more than what's listed at the Auctioneer's site: > > Special Auctioning @ 11 A.M.: Avion Travelcade 22'l Aluminum Travel > Trailer > 9/74 - 74-T-25106; Aluminum fishing boat w/35HP Johnson Seahorse O/B; > 2 Aluminum fishing boats, 1978 Vanagon Camper, wooden sailboat & > trailer, Allis Chalmers tractor, Chevy Pickup, Antique VW Van, Cub > Cadet LT1045 Riding lawn tractor, MGB convertible, 2-1969 VW Camper > Van, 3 Triumph TR3 convertible roadsters, 2 Austin Healey's 1002 > convertible roadsters; Suzuki motorcycle, 1977 Ford F700 Bucket Truck. > > See > http://www.brzostek.com/cgi-bin/htmlos.cgi/04158.1.911203868311180433 > for listing and pictures. > > NFI or affiliation. Maybe somebody else knows who the owner is.... > > Jim S > '79 Spit > '74 TR6 > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ccsimonsen at gmail.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net From wbeech at flash.net Tue Jun 26 22:32:09 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2012 23:32:09 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3's in Auction Saturday 6/30/12 near Syracuse, NY In-Reply-To: <000001cd5408$ed6a7160$c83f5420$@verizon.net> References: <007a01cd53d8$096ecc70$1c4c6550$@windstream.net> <000001cd5408$ed6a7160$c83f5420$@verizon.net> Message-ID: <6B8DCB39B94D4177B796221723E4AE83@bboffice> Road trip! -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl-TR Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2012 9:03 PM To: 'Chris Simo'; 'Jim & Joanne Schoonmaker' Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3's in Auction Saturday 6/30/12 near Syracuse, NY Sure wish I was in NY. C -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Simo Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2012 6:54 PM To: Jim & Joanne Schoonmaker Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3's in Auction Saturday 6/30/12 near Syracuse, NY Wow the red tr3 has a supercharger on it! On Jun 26, 2012 5:01 PM, "Jim & Joanne Schoonmaker" < schoonmaker at windstream.net> wrote: > Just found this listing in our local weekly "Hi Neighbor". Don't know > any more than what's listed at the Auctioneer's site: > > Special Auctioning @ 11 A.M.: Avion Travelcade 22'l Aluminum Travel > Trailer > 9/74 - 74-T-25106; Aluminum fishing boat w/35HP Johnson Seahorse O/B; > 2 Aluminum fishing boats, 1978 Vanagon Camper, wooden sailboat & > trailer, Allis Chalmers tractor, Chevy Pickup, Antique VW Van, Cub > Cadet LT1045 Riding lawn tractor, MGB convertible, 2-1969 VW Camper > Van, 3 Triumph TR3 convertible roadsters, 2 Austin Healey's 1002 > convertible roadsters; Suzuki motorcycle, 1977 Ford F700 Bucket Truck. > > See > http://www.brzostek.com/cgi-bin/htmlos.cgi/04158.1.911203868311180433 > for listing and pictures. > > NFI or affiliation. Maybe somebody else knows who the owner is.... > > Jim S > '79 Spit > '74 TR6 > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ccsimonsen at gmail.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From gpr at key-men.com Wed Jun 27 03:05:17 2012 From: gpr at key-men.com (George Richardson) Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2012 05:05:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3's in Auction Saturday 6/30/12 near Syracuse, NY In-Reply-To: <6B8DCB39B94D4177B796221723E4AE83@bboffice> References: <007a01cd53d8$096ecc70$1c4c6550$@windstream.net> <000001cd5408$ed6a7160$c83f5420$@verizon.net> <6B8DCB39B94D4177B796221723E4AE83@bboffice> Message-ID: <4FEACCCD.1010107@key-men.com> I'm in New York, but about 3 1/2 hours ways. Still, I'm tempted.... George Richardson Key Men - Keys for Classics www.key-men.com On 6/27/2012 12:32 AM, wbeech at flash.net wrote: > Road trip! > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl-TR > Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2012 9:03 PM > To: 'Chris Simo'; 'Jim & Joanne Schoonmaker' > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] TR3's in Auction Saturday 6/30/12 near Syracuse, NY > > Sure wish I was in NY. > C > > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Simo > Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2012 6:54 PM > To: Jim & Joanne Schoonmaker > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] TR3's in Auction Saturday 6/30/12 near Syracuse, NY > > Wow the red tr3 has a supercharger on it! > On Jun 26, 2012 5:01 PM, "Jim & Joanne Schoonmaker" < > schoonmaker at windstream.net> wrote: > >> Just found this listing in our local weekly "Hi Neighbor". Don't know >> any more than what's listed at the Auctioneer's site: >> >> Special Auctioning @ 11 A.M.: Avion Travelcade 22'l Aluminum Travel >> Trailer >> 9/74 - 74-T-25106; Aluminum fishing boat w/35HP Johnson Seahorse O/B; >> 2 Aluminum fishing boats, 1978 Vanagon Camper, wooden sailboat & >> trailer, Allis Chalmers tractor, Chevy Pickup, Antique VW Van, Cub >> Cadet LT1045 Riding lawn tractor, MGB convertible, 2-1969 VW Camper >> Van, 3 Triumph TR3 convertible roadsters, 2 Austin Healey's 1002 >> convertible roadsters; Suzuki motorcycle, 1977 Ford F700 Bucket Truck. >> >> See >> http://www.brzostek.com/cgi-bin/htmlos.cgi/04158.1.911203868311180433 >> for listing and pictures. >> >> NFI or affiliation. Maybe somebody else knows who the owner is.... >> >> Jim S >> '79 Spit >> '74 TR6 >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ccsimonsen at gmail.com > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/gpr at key-men.com From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Wed Jun 27 07:19:53 2012 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl-TR) Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2012 09:19:53 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3's in Auction Saturday 6/30/12 near Syracuse, NY In-Reply-To: <4FEACCCD.1010107@key-men.com> References: <007a01cd53d8$096ecc70$1c4c6550$@windstream.net> <000001cd5408$ed6a7160$c83f5420$@verizon.net> <6B8DCB39B94D4177B796221723E4AE83@bboffice> <4FEACCCD.1010107@key-men.com> Message-ID: <001001cd5467$8aa4c030$9fee4090$@verizon.net> 3 1/2 hours vs. 21 hours - that would be a no brainer. Unless there is more than one TR3 enthusiast - some of that stuff will go for pennies on the dollar. Sad in a way. C -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of George Richardson Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2012 5:05 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3's in Auction Saturday 6/30/12 near Syracuse, NY I'm in New York, but about 3 1/2 hours ways. Still, I'm tempted.... George Richardson Key Men - Keys for Classics www.key-men.com On 6/27/2012 12:32 AM, wbeech at flash.net wrote: > Road trip! > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl-TR > Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2012 9:03 PM > To: 'Chris Simo'; 'Jim & Joanne Schoonmaker' > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] TR3's in Auction Saturday 6/30/12 near Syracuse, NY > > Sure wish I was in NY. > C > > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Simo > Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2012 6:54 PM > To: Jim & Joanne Schoonmaker > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] TR3's in Auction Saturday 6/30/12 near Syracuse, NY > > Wow the red tr3 has a supercharger on it! > On Jun 26, 2012 5:01 PM, "Jim & Joanne Schoonmaker" < > schoonmaker at windstream.net> wrote: > >> Just found this listing in our local weekly "Hi Neighbor". Don't know >> any more than what's listed at the Auctioneer's site: >> >> Special Auctioning @ 11 A.M.: Avion Travelcade 22'l Aluminum Travel >> Trailer >> 9/74 - 74-T-25106; Aluminum fishing boat w/35HP Johnson Seahorse O/B; >> 2 Aluminum fishing boats, 1978 Vanagon Camper, wooden sailboat & >> trailer, Allis Chalmers tractor, Chevy Pickup, Antique VW Van, Cub >> Cadet LT1045 Riding lawn tractor, MGB convertible, 2-1969 VW Camper >> Van, 3 Triumph TR3 convertible roadsters, 2 Austin Healey's 1002 >> convertible roadsters; Suzuki motorcycle, 1977 Ford F700 Bucket Truck. >> >> See >> http://www.brzostek.com/cgi-bin/htmlos.cgi/04158.1.911203868311180433 >> for listing and pictures. >> >> NFI or affiliation. Maybe somebody else knows who the owner is.... >> >> Jim S >> '79 Spit >> '74 TR6 >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ccsimonsen at gmail.com > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/gpr at key-men.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk Wed Jun 27 07:32:35 2012 From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2012 14:32:35 +0100 (BST) Subject: [TR] dum dum In-Reply-To: <8CF221EFD00D56E-808-19A69@webmail-d075.sysops.aol.com> References: <1340670324.42023.YahooMailNeo@web65509.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> <1340734726.39017.YahooMailNeo@web29401.mail.ird.yahoo.com> <8CF221EFD00D56E-808-19A69@webmail-d075.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <1340803955.89168.YahooMailNeo@web29402.mail.ird.yahoo.com> Andy - I wasn't thinking so much about DumDum holding Heralds together - but for keeping the water out! Mind you, it worked pretty well in Spitfires too, and for exactly the same reason :) John ________________________________ From: Andrew S. Mace To: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk; nafzigerg at yahoo.com; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, 27 June 2012, 2:54 Subject: Re: [TR] dum dum > >Sorry I'm late, John; you know I do support anything that holds Heralds together! ;) > > >--Andy Mace > >*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? >*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. >-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) > >Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org > >Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us > > >-----Original Message----- >From: John Macartney >To: Gary Nafziger ; triumphs >Sent: Tue, Jun 26, 2012 2:42 pm >Subject: Re: [TR] dum dum > > >I'll echo Dave Massey's applause as to the properties of 'DumDum.' For the purist, no Standard-Triumph enthusiast should ever be without it. We used tons of the stuff at the factory - as did people like Healey, MG and Rootes Group. I'm surprised Andy Mace hasn't entered the fray in its support as many hundreds of Heralds left the factory with more than their fair share of the stuff on board. From dave at ranteer.com Wed Jun 27 07:42:48 2012 From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave) Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2012 08:42:48 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3's in Auction Saturday 6/30/12 near Syracuse, NY In-Reply-To: <4FEACCCD.1010107@key-men.com> References: <007a01cd53d8$096ecc70$1c4c6550$@windstream.net><000001cd5408$ed6a7160$c83f5420$@verizon.net><6B8DCB39B94D4177B796221723E4AE83@bboffice> <4FEACCCD.1010107@key-men.com> Message-ID: <5A70834BC04E4D59A4E6F4B05429C597@ranteer.local> somebody go bid on all of it for me -----Original Message----- From: George Richardson Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2012 4:05 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3's in Auction Saturday 6/30/12 near Syracuse, NY I'm in New York, but about 3 1/2 hours ways. Still, I'm tempted.... George Richardson Key Men - Keys for Classics www.key-men.com On 6/27/2012 12:32 AM, wbeech at flash.net wrote: > Road trip! > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl-TR > Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2012 9:03 PM > To: 'Chris Simo'; 'Jim & Joanne Schoonmaker' > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] TR3's in Auction Saturday 6/30/12 near Syracuse, NY > > Sure wish I was in NY. > C From Michael.Mack at redcross.org Wed Jun 27 09:18:12 2012 From: Michael.Mack at redcross.org (Mack, Michael (Rochester)) Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2012 15:18:12 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3's in Auction Saturday 6/30/12 near Syracuse, NY In-Reply-To: <5A70834BC04E4D59A4E6F4B05429C597@ranteer.local> References: <007a01cd53d8$096ecc70$1c4c6550$@windstream.net><000001cd5408$ed6a7160$c83f5420$@verizon.net><6B8DCB39B94D4177B796221723E4AE83@bboffice> <4FEACCCD.1010107@key-men.com> <5A70834BC04E4D59A4E6F4B05429C597@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <6A6C6BB6A374144385E5E3CF3864B5452110FB81@BL2PRD0410MB373.namprd04.prod.outlook.com> I live about 1.5 hours away from the Auction. I may go on Saturday. Anyone plan on going? We could meet, compare notes, etc. Contact me off list, if you want. Mike Mack Rochester, NY 80 TR8 73 Stag 79 Spit 70 GT6 From ashleys at farmside.co.nz Thu Jun 28 04:15:39 2012 From: ashleys at farmside.co.nz (ashleys) Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2012 22:15:39 +1200 Subject: [TR] Cam setting for CP TR6 Message-ID: <0DE97B83C94640BB9A2C228F9DA0FFC0@AshleysPC> Hi! I need timing details for cam 307689 with no 1 inlet cam lobe at highest point,what degree is crankshaft setting ATDC. Thanks Ashley From john_finlayson at telus.net Thu Jun 28 21:19:35 2012 From: john_finlayson at telus.net (John Finlayson) Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2012 20:19:35 -0700 Subject: [TR] Transmission Temporary Locks In Neutral Message-ID: I have a '62 TR4 in which I have installed a TR6 transmission with A type overdrive. Very intermittently after shifting out of a gear I will find that I can't get out of neutral into the gear I am intending to shift into, or to any forward gear including the one I just came out of. This can occur when the car is stopped or in motion. I can be at a traffic light waiting in neutral for the light to change. When the light changes I find I can't engage any forward gear. After trying repeatedly to select a gear and engaging and disengaging the clutch I have so far eventually been able to get the transmission "unlocked" and shifted into a gear. The same applies when the car is in motion and when I am either up or down shifting. I don't recall overdrive ever being engaged when this occurs although it's possible it may have been on some occasions. There is no grinding of gears when this occurs. The shifter doesn't get even close to selecting a gear. When I try to select a gear, I can freely move the shifter laterally in neutral but not up or down to select any forward gear.The shift lever feels like it is physically blocked from moving up or down....I have not yet tried to select reverse when this occurs, just haven't thought to try reverse. These are infrequent events and have occurred since since the transmission was installed a year or so ago. Their frequency and the effort required to get a gear has increased recently, however. It happened three times on a ~30 mile drive I took last week....twice while stopped at lights and once while gearing down from 4th to 3rd while on the highway. I wasn't successful in getting it into gear till after I had stopped. Any suggestions on what the problem is would be greatly appreciated. John Finlayson From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jun 28 21:37:57 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2012 20:37:57 -0700 Subject: [TR] Transmission Temporary Locks In Neutral In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <031801cd55a8$93f6bca0$0601a8c0@randall> > There is no grinding of gears when this occurs. The shifter > doesn't get even > close to selecting a gear. When I try to select a gear, I can > freely move the > shifter laterally in neutral but not up or down to select any > forward gear. Kind of sounds like a problem with the shift interlock in the top cover to me. They can do strange things if one of the balls isn't in the right place, or the wrong ball got used. -- Randall From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Fri Jun 29 08:58:41 2012 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2012 10:58:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR7 & TR8 Hood Prop Message-ID: <84B538C0500E42F9B4898F389E2D92C3@BobPC> Ibve been making and selling a ton of Fender Blankets (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/FenderBlanket.htm ) for the TR6 for the past 6 months and want to add the TR7 & TR8 to the list. A TR8 owner gave me the hood prop measurement as being on the left side approximately 17b from the rear of the hood opening at the windshield and 12b in from the fender edge. Does that measurement change with the TR7? Is the hood prop only on the left side of the car? Thanks Bob Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 1975 TR6 with: Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff & CVJs From ghaynestr4 at aol.com Fri Jun 29 19:19:33 2012 From: ghaynestr4 at aol.com (George Haynes) Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2012 21:19:33 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Overdrive Quirk In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CF24758AAFF7BD-FA4-193FD@webmail-d146.sysops.aol.com> Strange new problem with the overdrive in my TR4A. When the engine's cool, it works fine. When warmed up - maybe 10-15 minutes - it has a tendency to drop out while the OD relay inside the car chatters noisily. It goes in and out of overdrive at will. I bought a new relay and experience the same problem but it takes longer to happen and remains in OD for longer periods, but eventually drops out by itself. Same relay chatter. I thought I could use a relay from Radio Shack but cannot seem to make it work at; it is intended to switch higher current, as in high-wattage headlights or horns. I'll try that again, anyway. The gearbox is filled with oil. Could I have two bad relays? What am I missing? Thanks! George From mark at bradakis.com Fri Jun 29 20:05:50 2012 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2012 20:05:50 -0600 Subject: [TR] Easy engine rebuild Message-ID: <4FEE5EFE.2000608@bradakis.com> In case you haven't seen this elsewhere: http://youtu.be/daVDrGsaDME mjb. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jun 29 20:13:59 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2012 19:13:59 -0700 Subject: [TR] Overdrive Quirk In-Reply-To: <8CF24758AAFF7BD-FA4-193FD@webmail-d146.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CF24758AAFF7BD-FA4-193FD@webmail-d146.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <007801cd5666$03206500$09612f00$@rr.com> Are you sure it is the relay chattering, and not the OD solenoid itself? If it is the relay, I would suspect that one of the isolator switches is not properly adjusted or perhaps is coming loose. Could also be a loose wire almost anywhere, of course. The OD solenoid delivers a very strong kick when the relay opens, which I believe is what causes the Radio Shack relays to fail. Adding a diode across the solenoid (but mounted at the relay) seemed to work very well for me. The diode is wired from the output terminal (the one that gets wired to the solenoid) to ground, and oriented so no current flows normally. Any power diode rated for at least 1 amp and 50 volts should work fine (I think I used one rated for 200 volts). Eg, http://goo.gl/7OV4E I can't prove that is the right explanation (or solution), but I've been using the same cheap relay for over 10 years now after killing both a cheap relay and a reproduction relay in a matter of weeks before installing the diode. Here's a shot of the cheap relay with diode (taken on my TR3A before it got wrecked). http://goo.gl/HDHjb The wiring to the gearbox got replaced some time ago, but I'm still using the same relay & diode on my TR3 today. -- Randall From triumphs at consolidated.net Fri Jun 29 22:04:07 2012 From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Home Consolidated) Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2012 23:04:07 -0500 Subject: [TR] Easy engine rebuild In-Reply-To: <4FEE5EFE.2000608@bradakis.com> References: <4FEE5EFE.2000608@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <9AD35D25-12F2-47DB-BBED-BDE293285C34@consolidated.net> Very cool. Kg Sent from my iPad On Jun 29, 2012, at 9:05 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote: > In case you haven't seen this elsewhere: > > http://youtu.be/daVDrGsaDME > > > > mjb. > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumphs at consolidated.net From don.hiscock at gmail.com Fri Jun 29 23:06:24 2012 From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2012 00:06:24 -0500 Subject: [TR] Easy engine rebuild In-Reply-To: <4FEE5EFE.2000608@bradakis.com> References: <4FEE5EFE.2000608@bradakis.com> Message-ID: I like that one a lot, Mark. Thanks for the link. Don 1962 TR3B TSF202L On 6/29/12, Mark J Bradakis wrote: > In case you haven't seen this elsewhere: > > http://youtu.be/daVDrGsaDME > > > > mjb. > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com From Dave1massey at cs.com Sat Jun 30 06:57:54 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2012 08:57:54 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Overdrive Quirk Message-ID: <3c21c.1c0e1058.3d2051d2@cs.com> I doubt it is the relay. My first check would be the interlock switches on the top of the transmission cover. I think that one is adjusted right on the threashold and as the transmission case warms up and things expand the amount of switch engagement changes from "just enough" to "not quite enough." Does it do the same thing in 2nd gear? You can adjust the switch by removing one or more of the shims. Dave In a message dated 6/29/2012 8:21:48 PM Central Daylight Time, ghaynestr4 at aol.com writes: > Strange new problem with the overdrive in my TR4A. When the engine's > cool, > it works fine. When warmed up - maybe 10-15 minutes - it has a tendency > to > drop out while the OD relay inside the car chatters noisily. It goes in > and > out of overdrive at will. I bought a new relay and experience the same > problem but it takes longer to happen and remains in OD for longer > periods, > but eventually drops out by itself. Same relay chatter. > > I thought I could use a relay from Radio Shack but cannot seem to make it > work > at; it is intended to switch higher current, as in high-wattage headlights > or > horns. I'll try that again, anyway. > > The gearbox is filled with oil. Could I have two bad relays? What am I > missing? From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca Sat Jun 30 09:14:56 2012 From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (amcewen2 at cogeco.ca) Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2012 11:14:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] Rear spring issues TR3A Message-ID: <4fef17f0.ab.3f02.5106@cogeco.ca> Hi Listers, I put in poly bushings a couple of years ago, didn't really notice any difference (unlike when I did the fronts) but this year the rear sounds and feels like a wooden wheeled wagon on anything more then a pavement crack. Last year felt fine. Springs and shackles all look good, no visual sag, shocks < 10 years old and passes the bounce-the-fender-test (one needed topping up). Just a teeth rattling experience when I drive over anything approaching a typically maintained city street (ie rough and cracked). Any ideas? Art '60 TR3A TS85989lo From Michael.Mack at redcross.org Sat Jun 30 11:38:38 2012 From: Michael.Mack at redcross.org (Mack, Michael (Rochester)) Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2012 17:38:38 +0000 Subject: [TR] Syracuse, NY Auction Report - Tr2, TR3s, etc. Message-ID: <6A6C6BB6A374144385E5E3CF3864B54521113ECE@BL2PRD0410MB373.namprd04.prod.outlook.com> Gents/Ladies, I figured that I would share the cars and what they sold for with everyone who could not be at the Auction this morning. Unfortunately, I didn't give any of them a new home. 85 scorching degrees. 1954 TR2, green - $5000 1959 TR3a, red - $9500. 1962 TR3b, cream- $10000. 196? TR3 Parts Car, beige - $2000. 1956 Austin Healey 100, blue - $24000. 1966 MGB, red - $2800. 1969 VW Bus, white - $2900. 1969 VW Camper, red - $6600. 1978 VW Camper, Green - $700. Your Insipid Reporter, Mike Mack Rochester, NY 80 TR8 73 Stag 79 Spit 70 GT6 ________________________________________ From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] on behalf of Mack, Michael (Rochester) [Michael.Mack at redcross.org] Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2012 11:18 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3's in Auction Saturday 6/30/12 near Syracuse, NY I live about 1.5 hours away from the Auction. I may go on Saturday. Anyone plan on going? We could meet, compare notes, etc. Contact me off list, if you want. Mike Mack Rochester, NY 80 TR8 73 Stag 79 Spit 70 GT6 ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/michael.mack at redcross.org From JPayne at ThorCon.net Sat Jun 30 11:42:28 2012 From: JPayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne) Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2012 17:42:28 +0000 Subject: [TR] Syracuse, NY Auction Report - Tr2, TR3s, etc. In-Reply-To: <6A6C6BB6A374144385E5E3CF3864B54521113ECE@BL2PRD0410MB373.namprd04.prod.outlook.com> References: <6A6C6BB6A374144385E5E3CF3864B54521113ECE@BL2PRD0410MB373.namprd04.prod.outlook.com> Message-ID: <5891B364A7C3594B9466304B59E65B1C25440A07@ex1mbx01.onthenetoffice.com> What kind of condition were they in? Jonas Payne PBR Cell: (702) 358-5084 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mack, Michael (Rochester) Sent: Saturday, June 30, 2012 10:39 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Syracuse, NY Auction Report - Tr2, TR3s, etc. Gents/Ladies, I figured that I would share the cars and what they sold for with everyone who could not be at the Auction this morning. Unfortunately, I didn't give any of them a new home. 85 scorching degrees. 1954 TR2, green - $5000 1959 TR3a, red - $9500. 1962 TR3b, cream- $10000. 196? TR3 Parts Car, beige - $2000. 1956 Austin Healey 100, blue - $24000. 1966 MGB, red - $2800. 1969 VW Bus, white - $2900. 1969 VW Camper, red - $6600. 1978 VW Camper, Green - $700. Your Insipid Reporter, Mike Mack Rochester, NY 80 TR8 73 Stag 79 Spit 70 GT6 ________________________________________ From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] on behalf of Mack, Michael (Rochester) [Michael.Mack at redcross.org] Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2012 11:18 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3's in Auction Saturday 6/30/12 near Syracuse, NY I live about 1.5 hours away from the Auction. I may go on Saturday. Anyone plan on going? We could meet, compare notes, etc. Contact me off list, if you want. Mike Mack Rochester, NY 80 TR8 73 Stag 79 Spit 70 GT6 ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/michael.mack at redcross.org ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jpayne at thorcon.net From McGaheyRx at aol.com Sat Jun 30 11:51:18 2012 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2012 13:51:18 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Syracuse, NY Auction Report - Tr2, TR3s, etc. Message-ID: <3c5.39a8d045.3d2094bf@aol.com> WOW - wish it was that cool here 99 degrees here (Charlotte, NC) right now - high today, yesterday and next 3 days or so will be triple digits Cheers, Jack Mc in sunny North Carolina In a message dated 6/30/2012 1:47:04 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, Michael.Mack at redcross.org writes: 85 scorching degrees. From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Sat Jun 30 11:46:13 2012 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2012 10:46:13 -0700 Subject: [TR] Syracuse, NY Auction Report - Tr2, TR3s, etc. In-Reply-To: <6A6C6BB6A374144385E5E3CF3864B54521113ECE@BL2PRD0410MB373.namprd04.prod.outlook.com> References: <6A6C6BB6A374144385E5E3CF3864B54521113ECE@BL2PRD0410MB373.namprd04.prod.outlook.com> Message-ID: Interesting info -- possibly some pretty good deals there. I posted the auction info on a forum for Bay window VWs and it was promptly deleted w/o any comment. Then I noticed that the moderator was in New York. I wonder if he got one of those Vans. Geo On Sat, Jun 30, 2012 at 10:38 AM, Mack, Michael (Rochester) < Michael.Mack at redcross.org> wrote: > Gents/Ladies, > I figured that I would share the cars and what they sold... From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca Sat Jun 30 11:49:04 2012 From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (Art McEwen) Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2012 13:49:04 -0400 Subject: [TR] Rear spring issues TR3A In-Reply-To: References: <4fef17f0.ab.3f02.5106@cogeco.ca> Message-ID: <4FEF3C10.9010004@cogeco.ca> On 6/30/2012 12:57 PM, Geo Hahn wrote: > I assume your shock bolts are all tight... really tight. If they > loosen (or worse, fall out) you can get the sort of sounds you describe. I didn't check the arm bolt but the passenger side frame bolt has some slip in it, however the noise is mostly from the drivers side. I'll re-tighten all. From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca Sat Jun 30 11:49:12 2012 From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (Art McEwen) Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2012 13:49:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] Rear spring issues TR3A In-Reply-To: <4FEF22CF.8010707@snet.net> References: <4fef17f0.ab.3f02.5106@cogeco.ca> <4FEF22CF.8010707@snet.net> Message-ID: <4FEF3C18.4010706@cogeco.ca> On 6/30/2012 12:01 PM, John Mitchell wrote: > Just a thought, how old are the tires? John 8-10 years maybe, on their last summer for sure so that's a thought. From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Sat Jun 30 11:50:35 2012 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2012 10:50:35 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Syracuse, NY Auction Report - Tr2, TR3s, etc. In-Reply-To: <6A6C6BB6A374144385E5E3CF3864B54521113ECE@BL2PRD0410MB373.namprd04.prod.outlook.com> References: <6A6C6BB6A374144385E5E3CF3864B54521113ECE@BL2PRD0410MB373.namprd04.prod.outlook.com> Message-ID: <1341078635.2151.YahooMailNeo@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Mack i saw the subject line and feared opening the mail. but it wasn't so bad. i was thinking you'd be reporting those nice cars selling for pennies! but the TR2 and Healy seemed to have been good buys. no? was the condition good? thanks Frank ________________________________ From: "Mack, Michael (Rochester)" To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" Sent: Saturday, June 30, 2012 10:38 AM Subject: [TR] Syracuse, NY Auction Report - Tr2, TR3s, etc. Gents/Ladies, I figured that I would share the cars and what they sold for with everyone who could not be at the Auction this morning. Unfortunately, I didn't give any of them a new home. 85 scorching degrees. 1954 TR2, green - $5000 1959 TR3a, red - $9500. 1962 TR3b, cream- $10000. 196? TR3 Parts Car, beige - $2000. 1956 Austin Healey 100, blue - $24000. 1966 MGB, red - $2800. 1969 VW Bus, white - $2900. 1969 VW Camper, red - $6600. 1978 VW Camper, Green - $700. Your Insipid Reporter, Mike Mack Rochester, NY 80 TR8 73 Stag 79 Spit 70 GT6 ________________________________________ From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] on behalf of Mack, Michael (Rochester) [Michael.Mack at redcross.org] Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2012 11:18 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3's in Auction Saturday 6/30/12 near Syracuse, NY I live about 1.5 hours away from the Auction. I may go on Saturday. Anyone plan on going? We could meet, compare notes, etc. Contact me off list, if you want. Mike Mack Rochester, NY 80 TR8 73 Stag 79 Spit 70 GT6 ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/michael.mack at redcross.org ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From Michael.Mack at redcross.org Sat Jun 30 11:52:30 2012 From: Michael.Mack at redcross.org (Mack, Michael (Rochester)) Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2012 17:52:30 +0000 Subject: [TR] Syracuse, NY Auction Report - Tr2, TR3s, etc. In-Reply-To: <6A6C6BB6A374144385E5E3CF3864B54521113ECE@BL2PRD0410MB373.namprd04.prod.outlook.com> References: <6A6C6BB6A374144385E5E3CF3864B54521113ECE@BL2PRD0410MB373.namprd04.prod.outlook.com> Message-ID: <6A6C6BB6A374144385E5E3CF3864B54521113FB0@BL2PRD0410MB373.namprd04.prod.outlook.com> I got questions about condition. Condition was pretty much what was in the Auction pics. I will elaborate: 1954 TR2, green - $5000 Fair condition. solid body. mis aligned front panel. Interior complete but very rough. 1959 TR3a, red - $10000. nice paint, suprcharger, very good condition. Interior very good. 1962 TR3b, cream- $9500. Good paint, engine looked good, Interior good 196? TR3 Parts Car, beige - $2000. just the block in the engine bay. body was very solid. paint fair to good. 1956 Austin Healey 100, blue - $24000. Fair body/paint/poor interior. Price was crazy in my opinion. 1966 MGB, red - $2800. guess it runs. pint poor, interior fair. a runner. ________________________________________ From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] on behalf of Mack, Michael (Rochester) [Michael.Mack at redcross.org] Sent: Saturday, June 30, 2012 1:38 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Syracuse, NY Auction Report - Tr2, TR3s, etc. Gents/Ladies, I figured that I would share the cars and what they sold for with everyone who could not be at the Auction this morning. Unfortunately, I didn't give any of them a new home. 85 scorching degrees. 1954 TR2, green - $5000 1959 TR3a, red - $10000. 1962 TR3b, cream- $9500. 196? TR3 Parts Car, beige - $2000. 1956 Austin Healey 100, blue - $24000. 1966 MGB, red - $2800. 1969 VW Bus, white - $2900. 1969 VW Camper, red - $6600. 1978 VW Camper, Green - $700. Your Insipid Reporter, Mike Mack Rochester, NY 80 TR8 73 Stag 79 Spit 70 GT6 ________________________________________ From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] on behalf of Mack, Michael (Rochester) [Michael.Mack at redcross.org] Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2012 11:18 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3's in Auction Saturday 6/30/12 near Syracuse, NY I live about 1.5 hours away from the Auction. I may go on Saturday. Anyone plan on going? We could meet, compare notes, etc. Contact me off list, if you want. Mike Mack Rochester, NY 80 TR8 73 Stag 79 Spit 70 GT6 ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/michael.mack at redcross.org ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/michael.mack at redcross.org From deruiterville at hotmail.com Sat Jun 30 12:19:51 2012 From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter) Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2012 13:19:51 -0500 Subject: [TR] Syracuse, NY Auction Report - Tr2, TR3s, etc. In-Reply-To: <6A6C6BB6A374144385E5E3CF3864B54521113FB0@BL2PRD0410MB373.namprd04.prod.outlook.com> References: <6A6C6BB6A374144385E5E3CF3864B54521113ECE@BL2PRD0410MB373.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>, <6A6C6BB6A374144385E5E3CF3864B54521113FB0@BL2PRD0410MB373.namprd04.prod.outlook.com> Message-ID: Well I'm glad they didn't go for pennies but that still sounds like good buys if the bodies were decent. The 2 was a long door, and the 3B was an overdrive car. My brother in law attended for me, if they had gone for pennies I would have owned one! From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Sat Jun 30 11:58:40 2012 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2012 13:58:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] Rear spring issues TR3A In-Reply-To: <4fef17f0.ab.3f02.5106@cogeco.ca> References: <4fef17f0.ab.3f02.5106@cogeco.ca> Message-ID: Randall will suggest lubricating between the leaves and my guess is that's a good place to start. I think he even installed some thin Nylon between leaves which is even better, Randall, what say you? JVV Hi Listers, I put in poly bushings a couple of years ago, didn't really notice any difference (unlike when I did the fronts) but this year the rear sounds and feels like a wooden wheeled wagon on anything more then a pavement crack. Last year felt fine. Springs and shackles all look good, no visual sag, shocks < 10 years old and passes the bounce-the-fender-test (one needed topping up). Just a teeth rattling experience when I drive over anything approaching a typically maintained city street (ie rough and cracked). Any ideas? Art '60 TR3A TS85989lo From mark at bradakis.com Sat Jun 30 14:16:33 2012 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2012 14:16:33 -0600 Subject: [TR] Syracuse, NY Auction Report - Tr2, TR3s, etc. In-Reply-To: <6A6C6BB6A374144385E5E3CF3864B54521113ECE@BL2PRD0410MB373.namprd04.prod.outlook.com> References: <6A6C6BB6A374144385E5E3CF3864B54521113ECE@BL2PRD0410MB373.namprd04.prod.outlook.com> Message-ID: <4FEF5EA1.10205@bradakis.com> I slept in this morning, didn't make it there. Wonder how long it would take me to drive my little truck to New York from Utah? I couldn't afford any of the cars anyway. Maybe some morning I'll sit at the keyboard with my coffee and discover some lucky Team.Net subscriber won the lottery and sent tens of thousands of dollars to the Team.Net Paypal account. Yeah, right! I do on occasion get tens of dollars, that's always nice. Donate early, donate often! It is hot here in Salt Lake, I may wait until evening to go back out to the garage. Remember that squaretail Spit I wrote about back around Memorial Day? Still haven't touched the car, but making good progress on cleaning up around it. That's progress, of sorts. mjb. From gpr at key-men.com Sat Jun 30 16:11:51 2012 From: gpr at key-men.com (George Richardson) Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2012 18:11:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] Syracuse, NY Auction Report - Tr2, TR3s, etc. In-Reply-To: <6A6C6BB6A374144385E5E3CF3864B54521113ECE@BL2PRD0410MB373.namprd04.prod.outlook.com> References: <6A6C6BB6A374144385E5E3CF3864B54521113ECE@BL2PRD0410MB373.namprd04.prod.outlook.com> Message-ID: <4FEF79A7.6080308@key-men.com> Wow, glad I didn't go. The part car was outside my current budget. George Richardson Key Men - Keys for Classics www.key-men.com On 6/30/2012 1:38 PM, Mack, Michael (Rochester) wrote: > Gents/Ladies, > I figured that I would share the cars and what they sold for with everyone who > could not be at the Auction this morning. Unfortunately, I didn't give any of > them a new home. 85 scorching degrees. > > 1954 TR2, green - $5000 > 1959 TR3a, red - $9500. > 1962 TR3b, cream- $10000. > 196? TR3 Parts Car, beige - $2000. > 1956 Austin Healey 100, blue - $24000. > 1966 MGB, red - $2800. > 1969 VW Bus, white - $2900. > 1969 VW Camper, red - $6600. > 1978 VW Camper, Green - $700. > > Your Insipid Reporter, > Mike Mack Rochester, NY > 80 TR8 > 73 Stag > 79 Spit > 70 GT6 > ________________________________________ > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] on > behalf of Mack, Michael (Rochester) [Michael.Mack at redcross.org] > Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2012 11:18 AM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] TR3's in Auction Saturday 6/30/12 near Syracuse, NY > > I live about 1.5 hours away from the Auction. I may go on Saturday. Anyone > plan on going? We could meet, compare notes, etc. > Contact me off list, if you want. > > Mike Mack Rochester, NY > 80 TR8 > 73 Stag > 79 Spit > 70 GT6 > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/michael.mack at redcross.org > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/gpr at key-men.com From tjwakeman at gmail.com Sat Jun 30 18:01:55 2012 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2012 17:01:55 -0700 Subject: [TR] Rear spring issues TR3A In-Reply-To: References: <4fef17f0.ab.3f02.5106@cogeco.ca> Message-ID: <4FEF9373.5000308@gmail.com> On 6/30/12 10:58 AM, Jerry Van Vlack wrote: > Randall will suggest lubricating between the leaves and my guess is > that's a good place to start. I think he even installed some thin > Nylon between leaves which is even better, > > Randall, what say you? > Sorry, I'm not Randall but: Nylon no, UHMW yes! To minimize the friction between the individual leaves I like UHMW (ultra-high molecular weight) Polyethylene plastic. This plastic provides a low friction surface, similar to Teflon tape, but with a much higher abrasion and puncture resistance. It was designed specifically for commercial use on chutes, packaging lines, slides, and anywhere high pressure metal to metal sliding contact occurs. It also provides sound dampening, eliminating squeaks and rattles caused by adjacent parts movement. The plastic's temperature range is -40 to +225 degrees F. TeriAnn From l1j1s at aol.com Sat Jun 30 18:24:08 2012 From: l1j1s at aol.com (Lawerence Schwartz) Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2012 20:24:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] Auction Message-ID: <41803555-CB80-487A-9B6F-F159E60784D6@aol.com> List, great auction. I am the proud new owner of that red Tr3b. Very surprise with the condition of the car, much better them I thought it would be. Now I own two Tr3 with Judson superchargers. Larry Schwartz From ptegler at verizon.net Sat Jun 30 19:02:53 2012 From: ptegler at verizon.net (ptegler) Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2012 21:02:53 -0400 Subject: [TR] Rear spring issues TR3A References: <4fef17f0.ab.3f02.5106@cogeco.ca> <4FEF9373.5000308@gmail.com> Message-ID: <18F58AC8E64345CF8970E92BE5489440@dragonlairii> go to your local dollar store.... you can often find 'roll-up' cutting boards for kitchen use. Nice hard Teflon/Delrin/nylon type material, just very thin almost translucent. works GREAT for leaf spacers. Paul Tegler ptegler at verizon.net www.teglerizer.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" To: Sent: Saturday, June 30, 2012 8:01 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Rear spring issues TR3A > On 6/30/12 10:58 AM, Jerry Van Vlack wrote: >> Randall will suggest lubricating between the leaves and my guess is >> that's a good place to start. I think he even installed some thin >> Nylon between leaves which is even better, >> >> Randall, what say you? >> > Sorry, I'm not Randall but: > > Nylon no, UHMW yes! > > To minimize the friction between the individual leaves I like UHMW > (ultra-high molecular weight) Polyethylene plastic. > > This plastic provides a low friction surface, similar to Teflon tape, > but with a much higher abrasion and puncture resistance. It was designed > specifically for commercial use on chutes, packaging lines, slides, and > anywhere high pressure metal to metal sliding contact occurs. It also > provides sound dampening, eliminating squeaks and rattles caused by > adjacent parts movement. The plastic's temperature range is -40 to +225 > degrees F. > > TeriAnn > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sat Jun 30 17:53:58 2012 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2012 19:53:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] Syracuse, NY Auction Report - Tr2, TR3s, etc. In-Reply-To: <4FEF5EA1.10205@bradakis.com> References: <6A6C6BB6A374144385E5E3CF3864B54521113ECE@BL2PRD0410MB373.namprd04.prod.outlook.com> <4FEF5EA1.10205@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <4FEF9196.6070004@adelphia.net> Mark, Well let me tell you how long it takes! I just made the trip from South Lake Tahoe to Deerfield NY in 3 driving days. It takes about 14 hours from SLT to Rawlins WY. Another 14.5 from Rawlins to Davenport Iowa and then 14 or so from Iowa to central NY. That is with all the construction! Yes it was hot and not a cloud in the sky! So I drove through Salt Lake and all the salt flats. Must say that until I got out of Salt Lake, a very boring ride. But after SL, very nice. Love all the rock formations but then again, rocks are my 2nd hobby. I too hope that the buyers of the LBCs continue to support not only the list but the classic car hobby. Bob On 06/30/2012 04:16 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote: > I slept in this morning, didn't make it there. Wonder how long it would > take me to drive my little truck to New York from Utah? > > I couldn't afford any of the cars anyway. Maybe some morning I'll sit > at the > keyboard with my coffee and discover some lucky Team.Net subscriber won > the lottery and sent tens of thousands of dollars to the Team.Net Paypal > account. Yeah, right! I do on occasion get tens of dollars, that's > always > nice. Donate early, donate often! > > It is hot here in Salt Lake, I may wait until evening to go back out > to the > garage. Remember that squaretail Spit I wrote about back around Memorial > Day? Still haven't touched the car, but making good progress on > cleaning up > around it. That's progress, of sorts. > > mjb. > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr at adelphia.net From levilevi at comcast.net Sat Jun 30 21:26:49 2012 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2012 21:26:49 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR4A stamped B 5 What's it mean? Message-ID: <4C87C71A-07BC-427C-8F56-6A4470479AF4@comcast.net> Any idea what the B 5 means that is stamped on the front cross beam of my TR4A frame? I dug out the straight frame I have for the Wreck listed below and saw a number stamped on the top of the frame cross member. http://s1162.photobucket.com/albums/q532/levi3451/ Thanks Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts and Recently Reborn as a Race Car Wantabe) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Jun 30 23:02:20 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2012 22:02:20 -0700 Subject: [TR] Rear spring issues TR3A In-Reply-To: <4FEF9373.5000308@gmail.com> References: <4fef17f0.ab.3f02.5106@cogeco.ca> <4FEF9373.5000308@gmail.com> Message-ID: <000101cd5746$b2b1b3d0$0601a8c0@randall> > Sorry, I'm not Randall but: Actually, I think that's a wonderful arrangement, nothing to be sorry about! Not sure what happened, but my reply seems to have been lost. As Jerry said, after checking out the shocks, I'd look at the springs next. If not kept oiled on a regular basis, they can rust between the leaves and transmit every little bump to the car. The book recommends used motor oil, but fresh will do. Based on TeriAnn's advice, I installed "UHMW" (ultra high molecular weight polyethylene) tape between the leaves. MMC P/N 76445A24 is enough to do two cars. The ride improvement was noticeable and so far, at least, it seems to be holding up well. The only caveat is that the rear shocks become more important without all that friction in the springs. -- Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Jun 30 23:02:20 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2012 22:02:20 -0700 Subject: [TR] Rear spring issues TR3A In-Reply-To: References: <4fef17f0.ab.3f02.5106@cogeco.ca> Message-ID: <000201cd5746$b30c56f0$0601a8c0@randall> > Randall will suggest lubricating between the leaves and my > guess is that's a > good place to start. I think he even installed some thin > Nylon between > leaves which is even better, Correct on both points, except that on TeriAnn's suggestion I used a plastic known as UHMW (ultra high molecular weight polyethylene). UHMW is both slicker and stronger than nylon (also stronger than Teflon which was my first choice). P/N 76445A24 @ http://www.mcmaster.com It made a noticeable difference. You'll never get a TR3 to ride like a Cadillac, but at least it doesn't resemble a lumber wagon any more! Might also be worth checking your rear shocks. They have a tendency to come loose on the mounts, and for the rubber in the end links to go away. I've also seen them fail such that they would not move. Randall