[TR] Webers on my TR4

[TeriAnn J. Wakeman]

You know you cold have saved yourself a whole lot of time, $$ and effort 
if you had put a fuel pressure gauge on it to verify you were getting 
between 2 & 3 lbs pressure at the carbs.

The brass plug by the fuel inlet covers the filter screen.  You could 
pull them to see if the filters got clogged. If the filters are missing 
or torn it would not hurt to pull the tops of the carbs and verify that 
a piece of crud has not lodged in the float valve keeping it from 
closing properly.  The built in filter is supposed to keep that from 
happening and jets from getting clogged.

   The big brass cover in the middle with the winged nut covers the main 
and idle jets.  You could look at the idle jets to see if one is clogged.

IMPORTANT TO REMEMBER: fuel system and electrical system problems mostly 
have the same symptoms.

Do a spark check to see if you have a strong blue spark.

A bad condenser can cause the idle to bounce around.

On 7/17/12 3:26 PM, Lee&John Howard wrote:
> My Weber are acting up.  They were running fine and strong until:
> I messed around and changed the fuel line to an older braided SS line for
> appearances sake. Then, the carbs began to stumble and spit. They would
> barely idle and would not accelerate. Changed back to new rubber fuel line
> and changed the in line filter. No improvement.
> Thinking the mechanical pump must be gone again, switched in an electric.
> No improvement.
> Checked the timing - basically OK, though hard to tell with the rpms moving
> all over the place.
> Changed the plugs ( was going to anyway.)
> Reset the Webers to their initial settings.  No change.
> Finally, remover the cover to the pump. Diaphragm looks OK. There was gas
> on top but I assume that leaked through from the bowl as I broke the seal.
>
> So what gives? Could the main jet be clogged? I'll go check that.
>
> Any ideas? Could it still be electrical?
>
> Many thanks
>
> JohnH
>
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