From deruiterville at hotmail.com  Sun Jul  1 05:54:35 2012
From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter)
Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2012 06:54:35 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A stamped B 5  What's it mean?
In-Reply-To: <4C87C71A-07BC-427C-8F56-6A4470479AF4@comcast.net>
References: <4C87C71A-07BC-427C-8F56-6A4470479AF4@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BAY150-W61FAD50F658ABA1B1FFC00B9EB0@phx.gbl>

If its like the TR3 frames I've seen I think its just a version number for the
frame. Randy
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2012 21:26:49 -0600
> Subject: [TR] TR4A stamped B 5  What's it mean
>
> Any idea what the B 5 means that is stamped on the front cross beam of
> my TR4A frame?
>
> I dug out the straight frame I have for the Wreck listed below and saw
> a number stamped on the top of the frame cross member.
>
> http://s1162.photobucket.com/albums/q532/levi3451/

From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca  Sun Jul  1 06:28:29 2012
From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (Art McEwen)
Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2012 08:28:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] Rear spring issues TR3A
In-Reply-To: <000201cd5746$b30c56f0$0601a8c0@randall>
References: <4fef17f0.ab.3f02.5106@cogeco.ca>
	<E31E48A96EA3438392AE937BE2BC3F78@UserTHINK>
	<000201cd5746$b30c56f0$0601a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <F1C7F7BB-A8D9-4EEE-A0C8-8D4173B1D1CA@cogeco.ca>

> Might also be worth checking your rear shocks.  They have a tendency to
come
> loose on the mounts, and for the rubber in the end links to go away.  I've
> also seen them fail such that they would not move.
>
> Randall
>
Yes the passenger side shock mounts are loose, replacing those bolts now.
Thanks

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Sun Jul  1 06:55:52 2012
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Sun, 01 Jul 2012 05:55:52 -0700
Subject: [TR] Rear spring issues TR3A
In-Reply-To: <000101cd5746$b2b1b3d0$0601a8c0@randall>
References: <4fef17f0.ab.3f02.5106@cogeco.ca><E31E48A96EA3438392AE937BE2BC3F78@UserTHINK>
	<4FEF9373.5000308@gmail.com> <000101cd5746$b2b1b3d0$0601a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <4FF048D8.5030208@gmail.com>

On 6/30/12 10:02 PM, Randall wrote:
>> Sorry, I'm not Randall but:
> Actually, I think that's a wonderful arrangement, nothing to be sorry about!
> <G>
Works for me too ;)

> Based on TeriAnn's advice, I installed "UHMW" (ultra high molecular weight
> polyethylene) tape between the leaves.  MMC P/N 76445A24 is enough to do two
> cars.  The ride improvement was noticeable and so far, at least, it seems to
> be holding up well.  The only caveat is that the rear shocks become more
> important without all that friction in the springs.
I've never done that to the TR3 but strips of UHMV have been sitting 
between the leaves in my Land Rover for 13 years know and are still 
doing their thing for increased articulation and ride smoothness.  And I 
could not begin to count the hours they have worked on washboard trails.

TeriAnn

From l1j1s at aol.com  Sun Jul  1 06:59:13 2012
From: l1j1s at aol.com (l1j1s at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2012 08:59:13 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR- Tr3B
Message-ID: <8CF25A072E8B4E3-E9C-33B1A@webmail-d179.sysops.aol.com>

List, i have misplaced my files on TR3'S. What i am looking for is the
commission numbers for all         Tr3-B that were built. any info and help
would greatly be appreciated. thanks, Larry Schwartz

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Sun Jul  1 09:51:07 2012
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2012 15:51:07 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Thread Size
Message-ID: <505362746.907075.1341157867705.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

List, 



What's the size of the thread on TR gearbox drain and fill holes? 



Ed Woods 

From zoboherald at aol.com  Sun Jul  1 10:08:24 2012
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace)
Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2012 12:08:24 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR- Tr3B
In-Reply-To: <8CF25A072E8B4E3-E9C-33B1A@webmail-d179.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CF25A072E8B4E3-E9C-33B1A@webmail-d179.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CF25BAE0D25DBB-C70-50860@webmail-m056.sysops.aol.com>

TR2-3B production dates and numbers

should help.


--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us



-----Original Message-----
From: l1j1s <l1j1s at aol.com>


List, i have misplaced my files on TR3'S. What i am looking for is the
commission numbers for all         Tr3-B that were built. any info and help
would greatly be appreciated. thanks, Larry Schwartz

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Sun Jul  1 10:57:43 2012
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Sun, 01 Jul 2012 12:57:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR- Tr3B
In-Reply-To: <8CF25BAE0D25DBB-C70-50860@webmail-m056.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CF25A072E8B4E3-E9C-33B1A@webmail-d179.sysops.aol.com>
	<8CF25BAE0D25DBB-C70-50860@webmail-m056.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAAAokWe7nBZPoA+vt51ClezCgAAAEAAAAAeHhRdos9FLgFPcuQJOwmsBAAAAAA==@verizon.net>

Visit the VTR site.  http://www.vtr.org/TR2/TR2-production.shtml (from
various sources - mostly Bill Piggot's books)
TR3B
1962 (Mar)
	TSF1 TR4 all synchro gearbox
	TSF219 Changed Disc Brake Caliper Mounting
	TSF265 Changed Rear Shock Absorbers
	TSF284 Minor Change to Front Suspension 
1962 (Sep) 
	TSF530 Last w/TR3 engine

1962 (May)
	TCF1 First w/TR4 engine
1962 (Oct)
	TCF2804 LAST TR3B


1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 
Still being restored - but 2012 looks like the year..

-----Original Message-----
From: l1j1s <l1j1s at aol.com>


List, i have misplaced my files on TR3'S. What i am looking for is the
commission numbers for all         Tr3-B that were built. any info and help
would greatly be appreciated. thanks, Larry Schwartz

From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Jul  1 13:06:19 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 01 Jul 2012 13:06:19 -0600
Subject: [TR] Thread Size
In-Reply-To: <505362746.907075.1341157867705.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <505362746.907075.1341157867705.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4FF09FAB.9050906@bradakis.com>

I believe it is 1/4 inch pipe thread.

mjb.

From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Jul  1 14:00:39 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 01 Jul 2012 14:00:39 -0600
Subject: [TR] Thread Size
In-Reply-To: <4FF09FAB.9050906@bradakis.com>
References: <505362746.907075.1341157867705.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<4FF09FAB.9050906@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <4FF0AC67.1010208@bradakis.com>

Mark J Bradakis wrote:
> I believe it is 1/4 inch pipe thread.
>

My mistake, it is 3/8 pipe thread.

mjb.

From wbeech at flash.net  Sun Jul  1 21:15:17 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sun, 1 Jul 2012 22:15:17 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A stamped B 5  What's it mean?
In-Reply-To: <BAY150-W61FAD50F658ABA1B1FFC00B9EB0@phx.gbl>
References: <4C87C71A-07BC-427C-8F56-6A4470479AF4@comcast.net>
	<BAY150-W61FAD50F658ABA1B1FFC00B9EB0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <F87EB08869E94D379F5E1763AA1A75F8@bboffice>

ISTR my TR3 frame was stamped Z 27 in that spot.  No idea was the
significance is/was.
Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Hello, my name is Bill and I own an old British car.  Now...What are the
next 11 steps?"
 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randy and Valerie
DeRuiter
Sent: Sunday, July 01, 2012 6:55 AM
To: levilevi at comcast.net; Triumph List
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A stamped B 5 What's it mean?

If its like the TR3 frames I've seen I think its just a version number for
the frame. Randy
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2012 21:26:49 -0600
> Subject: [TR] TR4A stamped B 5  What's it mean
>
> Any idea what the B 5 means that is stamped on the front cross beam of 
> my TR4A frame?
>
> I dug out the straight frame I have for the Wreck listed below and saw 
> a number stamped on the top of the frame cross member.
>
> http://s1162.photobucket.com/albums/q532/levi3451/

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From lee at automate-it.com  Mon Jul  2 08:20:05 2012
From: lee at automate-it.com (Lee Daniels)
Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2012 09:20:05 -0500
Subject: [TR] Auction
In-Reply-To: <41803555-CB80-487A-9B6F-F159E60784D6@aol.com>
References: <41803555-CB80-487A-9B6F-F159E60784D6@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4f3afb28ed1ddde2f4de06c209a03870.squirrel@www.automate-it.com>

> List, great auction. I  am the proud new owner of that red Tr3b.

Now THAT'S what I wanted to hear - a list member got one of the good ones.
Way to go, Larry.

> Very surprise
> with the condition of the car, much better them I thought it would be. Now I
> own two Tr3 with Judson superchargers. Larry Schwartz

From guy at genfiniti.com  Mon Jul  2 10:03:51 2012
From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins)
Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2012 11:03:51 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A - End of the sun visor saga
Message-ID: <5AFBAF8F-57D0-43E6-9C4A-3BC57D69E8AD@genfiniti.com>

All,

Thanks to Mike Sabelhaus of my local club, for providing me contacts, I was
able to reach a source in the UK called "TR Bitz" who happened to have the
center sun visor mount for the TR4A.
It arrived last week from across the pond, was cleaned on a wire wheel,
painted, and added to the car this past Saturday.

So, thankfully, I will not be bombing the list every quarter seeking this
damned elusive part.



Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph

From willgray at vaxxine.com  Mon Jul  2 12:32:31 2012
From: willgray at vaxxine.com (David Willett)
Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2012 14:32:31 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A Turn Signal Rehab.
Message-ID: <23A46011-130F-4FCD-808A-8459AF9B9541@vaxxine.com>

To complete my rehab of turn signal self-cancelling device, I need just one
piece: the small roller which fits at the "other" end of the turn signal lever
and actuates the small hinged pieces. If this description is not clear, I can
send a pic.

 If anyone has, or knows where I might get, one of these rollers, please let
me know.

Dave

David Willett
willgray at vaxxine.com
Ph: 905 468 0608

From mark at bradakis.com  Mon Jul  2 16:41:14 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Mon, 02 Jul 2012 16:41:14 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR2-3 starter nose?
Message-ID: <4FF2238A.4020107@bradakis.com>

I can't find the appropriate parts book. Is this for a Triumph bullet 
nose starter, Lucas part number 255543 ?

http://bradakis.com/Images/tr3_nose.jpg


mjb.

From ghaynestr4 at aol.com  Mon Jul  2 19:12:48 2012
From: ghaynestr4 at aol.com (George Haynes)
Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2012 21:12:48 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Overdrive Fixed
Message-ID: <8CF26D018524DF7-FA4-26159@webmail-d146.sysops.aol.com>

Well, this is good news but embarrassing news.  I caused my own overdrive
problem.  Wouldn't admit it here but I'm 100% sure each of us has done
something like it (at least) once.

Last fall, I took the body off my TR4A for a RATCO frame swap.  I chose to
lift the body as complete as possible, so most of the interior remained
intact.  When the body was about 18" clear of the frame, I disconnected the
wire harness from the top of the transmission: overdrive and backup lights.
Of course there is a ground terminal and a P-clamp securing the harness to the
gearbox, both under one of the top cover hold-down bolts.  That had to be
disconnected, too.  Getting the picture?

Fast forward 17 days and the body goes onto the new frame.  At about 18"
again,. I reached in to connect all the wiring I had removed, but I forgot to
secure the P-clamp and ground wire and the top cover bolt!  Whatever grounding
was taking place was intermittent, as the wires and bolt bobbed up and down
and the relay chattered each time it lost ground.

So that's what I found this weekend when I removed the entire interior and
transmission cover.  The bolt was still hanging there - in the P-clamp and
ground terminal!  Oil had splashed out the bolt hole, making a mess under the
car.  For peace of mind, I drained the oil and filled with fresh.  After
reassembling, a one-hour test drive resulted in no overdrive problems.  It's a
happy car (and owner)  again.

So, many thanks to several of you for helping with the diagnosis, which turned
out to be a me problem rather than a hardware problem.  I have no idea why I'm
taking this so well....

George Haynes

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Mon Jul  2 19:31:27 2012
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2012 20:31:27 -0500
Subject: [TR] Overdrive Fixed
In-Reply-To: <8CF26D018524DF7-FA4-26159@webmail-d146.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CF26D018524DF7-FA4-26159@webmail-d146.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <CEC59B8C44B54F44A4064D6A4AD3DA3C@GregPC>

George,

You feel good because it is fixed, all is well, and you didn't have to spend 
money or tear apart the O/D to fix it.

I had an Austin Healey years ago exhibiting similar problems, after pulling 
the tranny tunnel and swapping out the relay, and testing the various 
electrical connections and the throttle switch (a feature thankfully omitted 
from Triumph O/Ds) it turned out to be a loose wire on the dash switch, a 30 
second fix that tooks hours and days to diagnose.  When the car was sitting 
the wire made pretty good contact, so it worked when tested in static mode, 
but driving down the road the wire bounced around and O/D juddered in and 
out.

Greg Lemon 

From ghaynestr4 at aol.com  Mon Jul  2 20:08:30 2012
From: ghaynestr4 at aol.com (George Haynes)
Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2012 22:08:30 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] List of Oils with ZDDP
Message-ID: <8CF26D7E05D8C65-FA4-26598@webmail-d146.sysops.aol.com>

A few months back, someone posted a rather complete list of modern oils and
their ZDDP content.  I cannot find that list and wondered if the author would
share it again, perhaps just to me, to not bomb the entire List.
Thanks, whoever you were!
George Haynes

From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Mon Jul  2 19:20:59 2012
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2012 21:20:59 -0400
Subject: [TR] Overdrive Fixed
In-Reply-To: <8CF26D018524DF7-FA4-26159@webmail-d146.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CF26D018524DF7-FA4-26159@webmail-d146.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <709104B26D5F4F7FB15C8E448674BD4F@UserTHINK>

George and others. I did the same thing and had the same result several 
years ago.
Amazing.
JVV

-----Original Message----- 
From: George Haynes
Sent: Monday, July 02, 2012 9:12 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net ; wmrampe at yahoo.com
Subject: [TR] Overdrive Fixed

Well, this is good news but embarrassing news.  I caused my own overdrive
problem.  Wouldn't admit it here but I'm 100% sure each of us has done
something like it (at least) once.

Last fall, I took the body off my TR4A for a RATCO frame swap.  I chose to
lift the body as complete as possible, so most of the interior remained
intact.  When the body was about 18" clear of the frame, I disconnected the
wire harness from the top of the transmission: overdrive and backup lights.
Of course there is a ground terminal and a P-clamp securing the harness to 
the
gearbox, both under one of the top cover hold-down bolts.  That had to be
disconnected, too.  Getting the picture?

Fast forward 17 days and the body goes onto the new frame.  At about 18"
again,. I reached in to connect all the wiring I had removed, but I forgot 
to
secure the P-clamp and ground wire and the top cover bolt!  Whatever 
grounding
was taking place was intermittent, as the wires and bolt bobbed up and down
and the relay chattered each time it lost ground.

So that's what I found this weekend when I removed the entire interior and
transmission cover.  The bolt was still hanging there - in the P-clamp and
ground terminal!  Oil had splashed out the bolt hole, making a mess under 
the
car.  For peace of mind, I drained the oil and filled with fresh.  After
reassembling, a one-hour test drive resulted in no overdrive problems.  It's 
a
happy car (and owner)  again.

So, many thanks to several of you for helping with the diagnosis, which 
turned
out to be a me problem rather than a hardware problem.  I have no idea why 
I'm
taking this so well....

George Haynes

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jul  2 17:25:14 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 2 Jul 2012 16:25:14 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR2-3 starter nose?
In-Reply-To: <4FF2238A.4020107@bradakis.com>
References: <4FF2238A.4020107@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <040a01cd58a9$f1a656e0$d4f304a0$@rr.com>

> I can't find the appropriate parts book. Is this for a Triumph bullet
> nose starter, Lucas part number 255543 ?
> 
> http://bradakis.com/Images/tr3_nose.jpg

I don't believe that is right for a TR2-3.  According to the Lucas 400E
catalog, the TR2-3 takes starter 25541, which uses a 256550 front cover.

And besides, it just doesn't look right to me.  The TR2/3 starter has a more
rounded nose, not so long.  That one looks like it wouldn't even fit inside
the early bellhousing.

But, I could not find a listing for a 255543 in the 400e catalog. 

-- Randall 

From mark at bradakis.com  Mon Jul  2 20:39:25 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Mon, 02 Jul 2012 20:39:25 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR2-3 starter nose?
In-Reply-To: <4FF2238A.4020107@bradakis.com>
References: <4FF2238A.4020107@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <4FF25B5D.1010801@bradakis.com>

Thanks to all who responded.  At least now I know what it ISN'T !

Somewhere on the face of the earth there is a restoration project that
came to a halt because they didn't have one of these, I imagine. Wonder
what car is does fit?

mjb.

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Jul  3 05:28:07 2012
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2012 07:28:07 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Overdrive Fixed
Message-ID: <4be22.46db2277.3d243147@cs.com>

They say the difference between a mechanical problem and an electrical 
problem is that a mechanical problem takes a minute to find and an hour to fix 
whereas an electrical problem takes an hour to find and an hour to fix.

And the software corollary is that a software bog takes a week to find and 
a second to fix.

Dave

In a message dated 7/2/2012 8:31:33 PM Central Daylight Time, 
glemon at neb.rr.com writes: 
> I had an Austin Healey years ago exhibiting similar problems, after 
> pulling 
> the tranny tunnel and swapping out the relay, and testing the various 
> electrical connections and the throttle switch (a feature thankfully 
> omitted 
> from Triumph O/Ds) it turned out to be a loose wire on the dash switch, a 
> 30 
> second fix that tooks hours and days to diagnose.  When the car was 
> sitting 
> the wire made pretty good contact, so it worked when tested in static 
> mode, 
> but driving down the road the wire bounced around and O/D juddered in and 
> out.

From JGILLIS at tcd.ie  Tue Jul  3 06:29:27 2012
From: JGILLIS at tcd.ie (John Gillis)
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2012 13:29:27 +0100
Subject: [TR] steering wheel nut
Message-ID: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB03450961118A@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>

Hi all, as I get ready for the first official outing for black TR2, I have
been trying to straighten the steering wheel, as my "best guess" of what was
correct in relation to the wheel spokes, was way off. A short drive and I
could better guess, but it is a real pain if I have to remove the stator tube
and horn push completely just to get a socket on the wheel nut. I have been
releasing the stator tube down at the steering box, then drawing up the horn
push and tube, all still intact enough, including wiring, to allow me move the
wheel on the splines, but it is very difficult to tighten the nut again with
such restricted access. Anyone had to cope with this one, or know of a way
around it?
Cheers
John
1954 Long Door

From wbeech at flash.net  Tue Jul  3 08:36:08 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (W Beecher)
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2012 07:36:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] steering wheel nut
In-Reply-To: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB03450961118A@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>
References: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB03450961118A@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>
Message-ID: <1341326168.70356.YahooMailRC@web181206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

BTDT, after fooling around try to get the steering wheel to be straight when
the 
wheels were straight going down the road proved to be an excersie in
futility.  
I did all the things that you have described, multiple times,
never found a 
simpler way.

Here is the solution(assuming you have done all
your front end work):  Once you 
have it close, say, the bottom spoke is at
5:00 or 7:00 position take her in and 
have the front end alignment properly
set.  As part of this process they will 
center the steering wheel and adjust
the tie-rod ends to the correct points.  
bob's yer uncle!

Bill
________________________________
From: John Gillis <JGILLIS at tcd.ie>
To:
"triumphs at autox.team.net" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, July 3, 2012
7:30:35 AM
Subject: [TR] steering wheel nut

Hi all, as I get ready for the
first official outing for black TR2, I have
been trying to straighten the
steering wheel, as my "best guess" of what was
correct in relation to the
wheel spokes, was way off. A short drive and I
could better guess, but it is a
real pain if I have to remove the stator tube
and horn push completely just to
get a socket on the wheel nut. I have been
releasing the stator tube down at
the steering box, then drawing up the horn
push and tube, all still intact
enough, including wiring, to allow me move the
wheel on the splines, but it is
very difficult to tighten the nut again with
such restricted access. Anyone
had to cope with this one, or know of a way
around it?
Cheers
John
1954 Long
Door

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From l1j1s at aol.com  Tue Jul  3 08:43:37 2012
From: l1j1s at aol.com (Lawerence Schwartz)
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2012 10:43:37 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tr-tr3-A front bumper WTD.
Message-ID: <FB62B2D6-0B1C-4C1C-858E-57ED3178821A@aol.com>

List, I am looking for a Tr3-a front bumper for my car. If anyone has one and
they wish to part with please contact me at L1J1S at aol.com thanks, Larry
Schwartz

From tfansher at comcast.net  Tue Jul  3 08:53:33 2012
From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2012 14:53:33 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] steering wheel nut
In-Reply-To: <1341326168.70356.YahooMailRC@web181206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <327131877.623982.1341327213176.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

I used really big channel lock pliers......to tighten the nut with the stator
tube in place. Anyone have any tricks to get the stator tube nut tight enough
without stripping. The a horn assembly still wants to turn with the wheel, so
no cancelling of the turn signals.

Tom



----- Original Message -----


From: "W Beecher" <wbeech at flash.net>
To: "John Gillis" <JGILLIS at tcd.ie>, triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, July 3, 2012 10:36:08 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] steering wheel nut

BTDT, after fooling around try to get the steering wheel to be straight when
the
wheels were straight going down the road proved to be an excersie in
futility. B 
I did all the things that you have described, multiple times,
never found a
simpler way.

Here is the solution(assuming you have done all
your front end work): B Once you
have it close, say, the bottom spoke is at
5:00 or 7:00 position take her in and
have the front end alignment properly
set. B As part of this process they will
center the steering wheel and adjust
the tie-rod ends to the correct points. B 
bob's yer uncle!

Bill
________________________________
From: John Gillis <JGILLIS at tcd.ie>
To:
"triumphs at autox.team.net" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, July 3, 2012
7:30:35 AM
Subject: [TR] steering wheel nut

Hi all, as I get ready for the
first official outing for black TR2, I have
been trying to straighten the
steering wheel, as my "best guess" of what was
correct in relation to the
wheel spokes, was way off. A short drive and I
could better guess, but it is a
real pain if I have to remove the stator tube
and horn push completely just to
get a socket on the wheel nut. I have been
releasing the stator tube down at
the steering box, then drawing up the horn
push and tube, all still intact
enough, including wiring, to allow me move the
wheel on the splines, but it is
very difficult to tighten the nut again with
such restricted access. Anyone
had to cope with this one, or know of a way
around it?
Cheers
John
1954 Long
Door

**

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Jul  3 09:34:38 2012
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2012 11:34:38 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] steering wheel nut
Message-ID: <cf12.4b4cc590.3d246b0e@cs.com>

Is the stator tube actually turning or is the horn assembly not engaging 
the notches in the stator tube?  The stator tube nut may be plenty tight and 
your problem lies elsewhere.

Dave

In a message dated 7/3/2012 9:53:40 AM Central Daylight Time, 
tfansher at comcast.net writes: 
> I used really big channel lock pliers......to tighten the nut with the 
> stator
> tube in place. Anyone have any tricks to get the stator tube nut tight 
> enough
> without stripping. The a horn assembly still wants to turn with the wheel, 
> so
> no cancelling of the turn signals.

From tfansher at comcast.net  Tue Jul  3 10:27:04 2012
From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2012 16:27:04 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Was:  steering wheel nut, now stator tube turning
In-Reply-To: <cf12.4b4cc590.3d246b0e@cs.com>
Message-ID: <381603068.628728.1341332824807.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Dave, t he whole stator tube assembly is turning. The horn assembly is
engaging the notches in the tube. The horn assembly is new - bought from one
of the big three at a VTR auction and seemed "tight when turning it" before
the assembly into the stator. I've stripped a couple of brass nuts trying to
tighten it. It's frustrating. I do have the other car to compare and it's
fine....

Tom



----- Original Message -----


From: Dave1massey at cs.com
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, July 3, 2012 11:34:38 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] steering wheel nut

Is the stator tube actually turning or is the horn assembly not engaging
the notches in the stator tube? B The stator tube nut may be plenty tight and
your problem lies elsewhere.

Dave

In a message dated 7/3/2012 9:53:40 AM Central Daylight Time,
tfansher at comcast.net writes:
> I used really big channel lock pliers......to tighten the nut with the
> stator
> tube in place. Anyone have any tricks to get the stator tube nut tight
> enough
> without stripping. The a horn assembly still wants to turn with the wheel,
> so
> no cancelling of the turn signals.

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Jul  3 11:25:49 2012
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2012 13:25:49 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Was:  steering wheel nut, now stator tube turning
Message-ID: <fdb3.2545efef.3d24851c@cs.com>

Maybe you're right and the horn assembly is too tight.  I guess swapping 
horn assemblies between cars is too much trouble.  But that would be one way 
to confirm.

Dave

In a message dated 7/3/2012 11:27:03 AM Central Daylight Time, 
tfansher at comcast.net writes: 
> Dave, the whole stator tube assembly is turning. The horn assembly is 
> engaging the notches in the tube. The horn assembly is new - bought from one 
> of the big three at a VTR auction and seemed "tight when turning it" before 
> the assembly into the stator. I've stripped a couple of brass nuts trying 
> to tighten it. It's frustrating. I do have the other car to compare and it's 
> fine....

From pdqtr6 at comcast.net  Tue Jul  3 12:20:34 2012
From: pdqtr6 at comcast.net (pdqtr6 at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2012 18:20:34 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] X-ray Vision Would be Nice...
Message-ID: <448613300.1388190.1341339634216.JavaMail.root@sz0012a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Where's Superman when you need him? (Probably off saving Louis from her own
stupidity).

B 

I have a TR6 which has the common problem of blocked passages between the
engine block water jacket and the drain hole.B  Fortunately, I have the head
off and have managed to "chip" my way through a passage that is drilled below
the rear-most hole that connects the head and block jackets.B My question is -
is this the only drain for the block, or are there some more?B  IOW, is there
a drilling below the next hole foreword, or the vaguely triangular opening at
the back (the other two passages that are adjacent to the one I opened)?



Tom Walling

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Jul  3 10:28:06 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2012 09:28:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] steering wheel nut
In-Reply-To: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB03450961118A@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>
References: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB03450961118A@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>
Message-ID: <01b301cd5938$d3f43510$0601a8c0@randall>

IMO you're approaching it wrong, John.  The steering box itself has a
definite center point, where you can feel that the worm/peg clearance goes
to zero.  (Or you can check the angle of the pitman arm to the steering
column, as shown in the workshop manual.)  You should install the steering
wheel with the box centered, then adjust the tie rods as necessary to get
the car to track straight with the box (and wheel) centered.

For tightening the nut that holds the wheel to the shaft, I just pull the
stator tube out all the way with the wires inside it.  It only takes a few
minutes to disconnect the wires beforehand and reconnect them afterwards.
Perhaps I have a problem, but on my TR3 that nut needs to be really tight or
the wheel will work on the splines.  I wouldn't want to try to get it tight
enough with just pliers.

-- Randall  

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Jul  3 10:32:03 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2012 09:32:03 -0700
Subject: [TR] Overdrive Fixed
In-Reply-To: <8CF26D018524DF7-FA4-26159@webmail-d146.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CF26D018524DF7-FA4-26159@webmail-d146.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <01b501cd5939$611163f0$0601a8c0@randall>

> I have no idea why I'm
> taking this so well....

Oddly enough, that's one of the reasons I prefer doing my own work.  When I
screw it up, I don't get nearly as mad at myself as I would at some other
guy.  Plus I usually learn something.  

As they say, good judgment comes from experience.  Experience comes from bad
judgment.

-- Randall  

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Jul  3 10:29:26 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2012 09:29:26 -0700
Subject: [TR] Overdrive Fixed
In-Reply-To: <4be22.46db2277.3d243147@cs.com>
References: <4be22.46db2277.3d243147@cs.com>
Message-ID: <01b401cd5939$0388fe50$0601a8c0@randall>

> And the software corollary is that a software bog takes a 
> week to find and 
> a second to fix.

You're lucky; it takes a lot longer than that to drain my software bogs.

-- Randall  

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Jul  3 10:36:27 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2012 09:36:27 -0700
Subject: [TR] steering wheel nut
In-Reply-To: <327131877.623982.1341327213176.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1341326168.70356.YahooMailRC@web181206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<327131877.623982.1341327213176.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <01bc01cd5939$fe6a4e00$0601a8c0@randall>

> Anyone have any tricks to get the stator tube 
> nut tight enough
> without stripping.

Reuse or make a compression sleeve equivalent to the original.  Modern
compression sleeves do not fit properly!  Modern nuts also do not fit
properly.

With the original components, it takes only very modest torque on the nut to
lock the tube.  I tightened mine just the other day using a 4" 'shorty'
wrench and it held fine.

-- Randall  

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Jul  3 15:06:34 2012
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2012 17:06:34 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] X-ray Vision Would be Nice...
Message-ID: <17a9d.761873.3d24b8da@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/3/2012 1:26:53 PM Central Daylight Time, 
pdqtr6 at comcast.net writes: 
> Where's Superman when you need him? (Probably off saving Louis from her 
> own
> stupidity).
> 
> B 

Louis, huh?  Is this the new gay Superman?

> 
> I have a TR6 which has the common problem of blocked passages between the
> engine block water jacket and the drain hole.B  Fortunately, I have the 
> head
> off and have managed to "chip" my way through a passage that is drilled 
> below
> the rear-most hole that connects the head and block jackets.B My question 
> is -
> is this the only drain for the block, or are there some more?B  IOW, is 
> there
> a drilling below the next hole foreword, or the vaguely triangular opening 
> at
> the back (the other two passages that are adjacent to the one I opened)?

The bottom of the cooling passage is probably full of rust and casting 
sand.  I was able to clear mine by removing the valve and reaming the area with 
a coat hanger.  After a bunch of crud came out the coolant drained quite 
freely.

Dave

From aljlthomson at charter.net  Tue Jul  3 15:45:57 2012
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson)
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2012 17:45:57 -0400
Subject: [TR] X-ray Vision Would be Nice...
In-Reply-To: <448613300.1388190.1341339634216.JavaMail.root@sz0012a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <448613300.1388190.1341339634216.JavaMail.root@sz0012a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <003101cd5965$3a8954a0$af9bfde0$@charter.net>

I had the same problem with our TR6. Don't know if the block drain had ever
been used by previous owners but it was well plugged with all sorts of
black, crusty, sandy, gooey material. By using a bent welding rod, I was
able to ream a path to the coolant. I bet it took at least an hour or two to
break through. I don't know of any other drain plug except the right rear of
the block. Also, I often wondered how corroded the core plugs were. So far,
those show no signs of leakage.

Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of pdqtr6 at comcast.net
Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2012 2:21 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] X-ray Vision Would be Nice...

Where's Superman when you need him? (Probably off saving Louis from her own
stupidity).

B 

I have a TR6 which has the common problem of blocked passages between the
engine block water jacket and the drain hole.B  Fortunately, I have the head
off and have managed to "chip" my way through a passage that is drilled
below the rear-most hole that connects the head and block jackets.B My
question is - is this the only drain for the block, or are there some more?B
IOW, is there a drilling below the next hole foreword, or the vaguely
triangular opening at the back (the other two passages that are adjacent to
the one I opened)?



Tom Walling

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net

From pdqtr6 at comcast.net  Tue Jul  3 16:59:17 2012
From: pdqtr6 at comcast.net (pdqtr6 at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2012 22:59:17 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] X-ray Vision Would be Nice...
In-Reply-To: <17a9d.761873.3d24b8da@cs.com>
Message-ID: <1753814477.1396747.1341356357211.JavaMail.root@sz0012a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

> Where's Superman when you need him? (Probably off saving Louis from her
> own
> stupidity).
>
> B

Louis, huh? B Is this the new gay Superman?


B 

I always thought he was at least a little fey, if not outright gay - and don't
get me started on Batman and Robin!

B 

I finally punched through the crud with a hefty steel rod.B  I was able to go
in through the top as I have the head off.B  The drain hole is directly below
the passage hole and exactly above the drain plug.B  The factory obviously
just drilled the drain plug hole and then drilled the passageway hole to the
head another 5 or 6 inches deeper to connect the 2.B  I was just wondering if
it was more complicated (more than 1 "downward"hole, but I'm now sure it
isn't.

B 

Thanks for the responses!

B 

Tom

From brad.kahler at 141.com  Tue Jul  3 17:00:22 2012
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (brad.kahler at 141.com)
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2012 19:00:22 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Interesting error in the Haynes manual
Message-ID: <1341356422.233712113@mail.141.com>

Listers,

I was in the process of installing a Pertronix unit in my TR4 today
and ran across and mistake in the Haynes manual for Triumph TR2,3,3A,4,4A copy
writ 1971.

As I was following the step by step instructions for setting the
timing on my TR4 after having installed the Pertronix unit I found that the
instructions read "Slowly and carefully turn the distributor body
anti-clockwise until with the heel of the fibre rocker arm on the cam the
points just begin to open."  I was using a test light instead of the fibre
rocker arm to determine when the points opened.  

The problem with the above
statement is the distributor shaft turns anti-clockwise and so you need to
actually rotate the distributor clockwise until the points just begin to open.
After first setting the timing the way the book described it seemed like the
distributor was somewhat out of position compared to how it was normally
oriented.  I tried to start the engine and it would hardly turn over because
the timing was so far advanced.

After studying the problem for a few minutes
I finally realized the mistake.  Made for a frustrating tune up session!

Brad
1963 TR4

From ashleys at farmside.co.nz  Wed Jul  4 02:49:19 2012
From: ashleys at farmside.co.nz (ashleys)
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2012 20:49:19 +1200
Subject: [TR] TR5 Cam Setting
Message-ID: <D83D2F04D01B4B67A7453E478D1A6C46@AshleysPC>

Hi!, What is the degree setting for 35/65 65/35 TR5/6 cam with no 1 inlet
valve at full lift.

Thanks
Ashley

From bkahler1 at gmail.com  Wed Jul  4 09:33:07 2012
From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2012 11:33:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] test
Message-ID: <CADm3DLGVE8kk=h9c7WW4XfYDfaXTs4rpRB83pmkaaNb9nWtsgw@mail.gmail.com>

Just changing emails.

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Wed Jul  4 11:05:04 2012
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2012 10:05:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3 - MST3K
Message-ID: <1341421504.26347.YahooMailNeo@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     I recently watched a Mystery Science Theater 3000 dvd. For those who
don't know, it is a show made in the 90's where they take awful movies from
the 50's and 60's and show silhouettes of two robots and a guy critiquing the
movie and adding their own lines. It is hysterical to watch. We watched one
last night called "Girl's Town" and it had a TR3 small mouth and a Jag XK120
that featured prominently. When the TR3 was being driven away by
an escaping girl one of the robot silhouettes yelled "watch out, the first
gear isn't synchromeshed and there may not be enough oil in the dash pots!" or
something like that. Pretty funny for a Brit car guy.

     -Bill

From bill_beecher at flash.net  Wed Jul  4 11:54:36 2012
From: bill_beecher at flash.net (Bill_beecher)
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2012 12:54:36 -0500
Subject: [TR] Tr3b Comm Plate
Message-ID: <F2D9EE8E-D004-45FC-8D43-437289EFA7A2@flash.net>

Comparing recent TR3B aquisitions with a neighbor and we noticed that while
his Commission plate looks like the one pictured in the TRF book mine looks
like the one for a 3A with the exception that the weight shows as 1170kg
rather than 1120kg.   Is there a reliable, definitive resource for what design
was used for the 3A & 3B plate?

From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Wed Jul  4 12:58:28 2012
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2012 14:58:28 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tr3b Comm Plate
In-Reply-To: <F2D9EE8E-D004-45FC-8D43-437289EFA7A2@flash.net>
References: <F2D9EE8E-D004-45FC-8D43-437289EFA7A2@flash.net>
Message-ID: <CAPK7CFC4JEVDcqw-dWPsLh9gAZyyvcDc6hTAQTVSK8sivsMu0g@mail.gmail.com>

I'm not sure there are that many reliable rules where fine detail on TR3Bs
is concerned. Any number of inconsistencies may turn up -- like the
"straight diagonal" enamelled hubcap emblems from another thread a few
weeks ago  Their goal at the time obviously was to sell cars.

My TSF202L plate reads 1170 kg.

Don

On Wednesday, July 4, 2012, Bill_beecher wrote:

> Comparing recent TR3B aquisitions with a neighbor and we noticed that while
> his Commission plate looks like the one pictured in the TRF book mine looks
> like the one for a 3A with the exception that the weight shows as 1170kg
> rather than 1120kg.   Is there a reliable, definitive resource for what
> design
> was used for the 3A & 3B plate?
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net <javascript:;> **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Wed Jul  4 13:07:31 2012
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Wed, 04 Jul 2012 15:07:31 -0400
Subject: [TR] 13. Tr3b Comm Plate
In-Reply-To: <mailman.15.1341424802.14861.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.15.1341424802.14861.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAJL2xS8Qce5OmzH6VzgCDbfCgAAAEAAAAGA0WiW3TqlJoH9XmGf2gnIBAAAAAA==@optonline.net>

Bill,
TRF catalog might be a starting point for you for those Comm plates.
Regards, Bob
 http://trf.zeni.net/TR2-TR3Handbook/index.php?menu=&page=30

Message: 13
Comparing recent TR3B aquisitions with a neighbor and we noticed that while
his Commission plate looks like the one pictured in the TRF book mine looks
like the one for a 3A with the exception that the weight shows as 1170kg
rather than 1120kg.   Is there a reliable, definitive resource for what
design
was used for the 3A & 3B plate?

From mark at bradakis.com  Wed Jul  4 22:51:43 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 04 Jul 2012 22:51:43 -0600
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Seeking Herald in Rough Condition
In-Reply-To: <4FF50F67.2020907@sri.com>
References: <4FF50F67.2020907@sri.com>
Message-ID: <4FF51D5F.2010900@bradakis.com>

Too bad you don't want a Spitfire.  If you came and hauled away one
of the rusting hulks in the back yard my wife would be really grateful!

mjb.

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Jul  5 05:52:06 2012
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2012 07:52:06 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] X-ray Vision Would be Nice...
Message-ID: <b766.17b036f3.3d26d9e6@cs.com>

I got into a bunch of trouble with the young guys here at work when I said 
the best Batman was Adam West.  One guy wouldn't talk to me for days.


Glad you got the drain sorted out.

Dave

In a message dated 7/3/2012 5:59:17 PM Central Daylight Time, 
pdqtr6 at comcast.net writes: 
> I always thought he was at least a little fey, if not outright gay - and 
> don't get me started on Batman and Robin!

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Thu Jul  5 07:31:02 2012
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2012 09:31:02 -0400
Subject: [TR] Overall dimensions for tr6 dash
Message-ID: <CANhzkeMFQyq5=LeUVBcewD2fi29CqNQ3tm1H=WXb7sUOk8ObHA@mail.gmail.com>

Could use some help. Im away from home and saw some veneer for my tr6 dash
project.

Im not sure its wide enough.  Could someone shoot me the overall dimensions
LxW for their dash?

Thanks!

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Thu Jul  5 08:52:10 2012
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2012 09:52:10 -0500
Subject: [TR] Overall dimensions for tr6 dash
In-Reply-To: <CANhzkeMFQyq5=LeUVBcewD2fi29CqNQ3tm1H=WXb7sUOk8ObHA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANhzkeMFQyq5=LeUVBcewD2fi29CqNQ3tm1H=WXb7sUOk8ObHA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <3BF233C805A1422DA1AD42B16BA8E082@GregPC>

Slighly UNDER 44" x 7" for a TR250, the TR6 would be the same.

Greg Lemon

From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk  Thu Jul  5 09:10:13 2012
From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2012 16:10:13 +0100 (BST)
Subject: [TR] Tr3b Comm Plate
In-Reply-To: <F2D9EE8E-D004-45FC-8D43-437289EFA7A2@flash.net>
References: <F2D9EE8E-D004-45FC-8D43-437289EFA7A2@flash.net>
Message-ID: <1341501013.63601.YahooMailNeo@web29405.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

Bill
 
I'd speculate that as the 3B was only destined for the US market and
not many of them at that in comparison to 3A build, the likelihood of having a
new style Comm Plate for a car that wasn't totally different from its
predecessor is improbable. It's a lot cheaper to make a slight alteration
(e.g. the weight) than to go the whole hog and re-hash the whole thing.
But
that's only a speculation and backed up by the fact that Standard-Triumph
never spent any money on anything unless it absolutely had to. That said,
probably another lister will pop up to say his/her comm plate is totally
different.
 
Jonmac
________________________________
 From: Bill_beecher
<bill_beecher at flash.net>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Wednesday, 4 July
2012, 18:54
Subject: [TR] Tr3b Comm Plate


>Comparing recent TR3B aquisitions
with a neighbor and we noticed that while
>his Commission plate looks like the
one pictured in the TRF book mine looks
>like the one for a 3A with the
exception that the weight shows as 1170kg
>rather than 1120kg.   Is there a
reliable, definitive resource for what design
>was used for the 3A & 3B plate?
>
>** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk

From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk  Thu Jul  5 08:53:14 2012
From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2012 15:53:14 +0100 (BST)
Subject: [TR] Interesting error in the Haynes manual
In-Reply-To: <1341356422.233712113@mail.141.com>
References: <1341356422.233712113@mail.141.com>
Message-ID: <1341499994.8869.YahooMailNeo@web29402.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

I guess you can't get all of it right all of the time for everyone? Sigh ...
 
Jonmac     
________________________________
 From: "brad.kahler at 141.com"
<brad.kahler at 141.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Wednesday, 4 July
2012, 0:00
Subject: [TR] Interesting error in the Haynes manual


>Listers,
>
>I was in the process of installing a Pertronix unit in my TR4 today
>and ran
across and mistake in the Haynes manual for Triumph TR2,3,3A,4,4A copy
>writ
1971.
>
>As I was following the step by step instructions for setting the
>timing on my TR4 after having installed the Pertronix unit I found that the
>instructions read "Slowly and carefully turn the distributor body
>anti-clockwise until with the heel of the fibre rocker arm on the cam the
>points just begin to open."  I was using a test light instead of the fibre
>rocker arm to determine when the points opened.  
>
>The problem with the
above
>statement is the distributor shaft turns anti-clockwise and so you need
to
>actually rotate the distributor clockwise until the points just begin to
open.
>After first setting the timing the way the book described it seemed
like the
>distributor was somewhat out of position compared to how it was
normally
>oriented.  I tried to start the engine and it would hardly turn over
because
>the timing was so far advanced.
>
>After studying the problem for a
few minutes
>I finally realized the mistake.  Made for a frustrating tune up
session!
>
>Brad
>1963 TR4
>
>** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
>Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Thu Jul  5 11:43:39 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (=?utf-8?B?eWVsbG93dHIzQHlhaG9vLmNvbQ==?=)
Date: Thu, 05 Jul 2012 10:43:39 -0700
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?X-ray_Vision_Would_be_Nice=2E=2E=2E?=
Message-ID: <963164.6594.bm@smtp213.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Adam west is Batman.
All others are imposters 
Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: Dave1massey at cs.com
Date: Thu, Jul 5, 2012 4:52 am
Subject: [TR] X-ray Vision Would be Nice...
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>

I got into a bunch of trouble with the young guys here at work when I said 
the best Batman was Adam West.  One guy wouldn't talk to me for days.


Glad you got the drain sorted out.

Dave

In a message dated 7/3/2012 5:59:17 PM Central Daylight Time, 
pdqtr6 at comcast.net writes: 
> I always thought he was at least a little fey, if not outright gay - and 
> don't get me started on Batman and Robin!

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Thu Jul  5 14:44:26 2012
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2012 13:44:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] mst3k......dvd
Message-ID: <1341521066.46813.YahooMailNeo@web65505.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

    OMG........i'd forgotten about that show.  I always thought it was
hilarious.  Used to watch it with my kids seemingly years ago.  Will have to
netflix it and relive with my kids and grandkids!
thanks for the memories!
gary n.

From cregg.cowan at sri.com  Thu Jul  5 19:04:20 2012
From: cregg.cowan at sri.com (Cregg Cowan)
Date: Thu, 05 Jul 2012 18:04:20 -0700
Subject: [TR] Seeking Herald in Rough Condition
Message-ID: <4FF63994.2050400@sri.com>

Fellow Triumph Enthusiasts,

Several of us in the San Francisco are Triumph club (Triumph Travelers) 
have gotten interested in Lemons racing, and have been driving with a 
team that campaigns a MGB (sacrilege!).We would like to put together a 
Triumph based Lemons car and our first choice is a Herald, since it is 
somewhat unusual, shares so many parts with widely-available Spitfires, 
and has body-on-frame configuration that is easy to maintain / work on.

Do any of you know of a Herald rusting away under a tree or behind a 
shed?Ideally within ~8 hours drive of San Jose?

Thanks in Advance,

Cregg Cowan, Andy Packard and John Sisler

PS.  You may have noticed that MJB replied to my message *before* I 
posted it.  He's very talented.

From levilevi at comcast.net  Fri Jul  6 10:57:04 2012
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2012 10:57:04 -0600
Subject: [TR] Hacked email address book
In-Reply-To: <BLU168-W4620AAAB409EF58B45DBF0BAEE0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU168-W4620AAAB409EF58B45DBF0BAEE0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <225C39FE-D114-4F63-AD82-39DD5CDFF8E6@comcast.net>

Darn it.

Since I hold your opinion in hight regard and need to lose a few  
pounds I had high hopes for this "miracle"  weight loss product.  
Although I did think it was a bit cheeky on your part...kinda like all  
the people that send me mental health treatment suggestions and  
links.  Nice to find out it was a hack job.   ;)


Bud

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net




On Jul 6, 2012, at 7:15 AM, marty sukey wrote:

> Somebody hacked into my email this morning and sent a link out to  
> everybody in my contacts.  If you got an email from me with a link  
> but no text PLEASE do not open it. I apologize for the  
> inconvenience. I am working on fixing the issue.
>
> Marty Sukey

From allenhess at mgcarclub.com  Fri Jul  6 13:09:46 2012
From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess)
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2012 15:09:46 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 vacuum port
Message-ID: <E100C994-DBDF-4212-B2C7-60E4E52A9FFF@mgcarclub.com>

I've had occasional but persistent oil fouling of the #1 plug for a  
few years and a hotter plug in that cylinder has helped. Symptoms  
point to worn valve guides. I was going to get a vacuum gauge and try  
to do some more diagnosis. However, I don't have any manifold vacuum  
port other than the advance line in the carburetor. And I'm not sure  
that would work as it lies beneath the throttle plate.

The intake manifold has two bosses cast into the balance tube which  
certainly looks like Triumph was thinking about this but it would have  
to be drilled and tapped. Anyone else been down this road?

Allen

From l1j1s at aol.com  Fri Jul  6 14:14:08 2012
From: l1j1s at aol.com (Lawerence Schwartz)
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2012 16:14:08 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tr-Tr-3a
Message-ID: <9335F78A-25CD-4D83-8A62-B65D58903F69@aol.com>

List, I have left my Bentleys book at a distant garage. With reference to a
Tr-3a , I need too replace the water pump. Will I need to remove the front
radiator and the apron as well? Any input would greatly be appreciated. Larry
Schwartz

From bill_beecher at flash.net  Fri Jul  6 14:31:35 2012
From: bill_beecher at flash.net (bill_beecher at flash.net)
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2012 15:31:35 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 vacuum port
In-Reply-To: <E100C994-DBDF-4212-B2C7-60E4E52A9FFF@mgcarclub.com>
References: <E100C994-DBDF-4212-B2C7-60E4E52A9FFF@mgcarclub.com>
Message-ID: <BC8DFB64E741413A8846F8F58DCC98BA@bboffice>

Maybe I'm all wet but what test would help you to isolate the #1 hole valve
guides by tapping a fitting into the balance tube?  If I suspect that I have
a valve guide problem, a good wiggle test will usually show it with out
having to pull the head. 

Any reason not to suspect that you might have a broken or frozen ring?

Bill

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Allen Hess
Sent: Friday, July 06, 2012 2:10 PM
To: "triumphs list"
Subject: [TR] TR4 vacuum port

I've had occasional but persistent oil fouling of the #1 plug for a few
years and a hotter plug in that cylinder has helped. Symptoms point to worn
valve guides. I was going to get a vacuum gauge and try to do some more
diagnosis. However, I don't have any manifold vacuum port other than the
advance line in the carburetor. And I'm not sure that would work as it lies
beneath the throttle plate.

The intake manifold has two bosses cast into the balance tube which
certainly looks like Triumph was thinking about this but it would have to be
drilled and tapped. Anyone else been down this road?

Allen

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Fri Jul  6 14:55:07 2012
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2012 13:55:07 -0700
Subject: [TR] Tr-Tr-3a
In-Reply-To: <9335F78A-25CD-4D83-8A62-B65D58903F69@aol.com>
References: <9335F78A-25CD-4D83-8A62-B65D58903F69@aol.com>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bEvc9F5GPMo-E-xUWh9_9WmEKaLG-rnpO=_Omz_SrM2vw@mail.gmail.com>

Not necessary to remove the radiator or apron.  Some remove the pulley and
then the pump, some remove the pump with the pulley still on it.  Both
methods work.

Some after-market pumps have non-removable pulleys -- if you have one of
those it will, of course, dictate which method you use.

Geo

On Fri, Jul 6, 2012 at 1:14 PM, Lawerence Schwartz <l1j1s at aol.com> wrote:

> List, I have left my Bentleys book at a distant garage. With reference to a
> Tr-3a , I need too replace the water pump. Will I need to remove the front
> radiator and the apron as well? Any input would greatly be appreciated.
> Larry
> Schwartz

From allenhess at mgcarclub.com  Fri Jul  6 15:15:31 2012
From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess)
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2012 17:15:31 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 vacuum port
In-Reply-To: <BC8DFB64E741413A8846F8F58DCC98BA@bboffice>
References: <E100C994-DBDF-4212-B2C7-60E4E52A9FFF@mgcarclub.com>
	<BC8DFB64E741413A8846F8F58DCC98BA@bboffice>
Message-ID: <D2B63FC6-45EF-4E86-A38F-0C04E8209C9B@mgcarclub.com>

Thanks for the photo. I do have the same manifold as your TR3B but it  
is not tapped and plugged as yours is. From what I've read, worn  
guides will cause a noticeable fluctuation of vacuum at idle.  
Compression in #1 is higher than 2, 3, 4 (172 lbs. / 165 lbs.) which  
may be due to carbon build up. I haven't tried but can you wiggle the  
stem with the spring in place??

Allen

On Jul 6, 2012, at 4:31 PM, <bill_beecher at flash.net> wrote:

> Maybe I'm all wet but what test would help you to isolate the #1  
> hole valve
> guides by tapping a fitting into the balance tube?  If I suspect  
> that I have
> a valve guide problem, a good wiggle test will usually show it with  
> out
> having to pull the head.
>
> Any reason not to suspect that you might have a broken or frozen ring?
>
> Bill
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Allen Hess
> Sent: Friday, July 06, 2012 2:10 PM
> To: "triumphs list"
> Subject: [TR] TR4 vacuum port
>
> I've had occasional but persistent oil fouling of the #1 plug for a  
> few
> years and a hotter plug in that cylinder has helped. Symptoms point  
> to worn
> valve guides. I was going to get a vacuum gauge and try to do some  
> more
> diagnosis. However, I don't have any manifold vacuum port other than  
> the
> advance line in the carburetor. And I'm not sure that would work as  
> it lies
> beneath the throttle plate.
>
> The intake manifold has two bosses cast into the balance tube which
> certainly looks like Triumph was thinking about this but it would  
> have to be
> drilled and tapped. Anyone else been down this road?
>
> Allen

From bkahler1 at gmail.com  Fri Jul  6 17:14:13 2012
From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2012 19:14:13 -0400
Subject: [TR] MP3 / IPOD hidden stereo
Message-ID: <CADm3DLHdWZNE-1o2_kSAQ1zUYff2Ybc1WS=DJ_vDnUi8ma_o1A@mail.gmail.com>

Anyone out there ever use a stereo like this for their car?  If so any
pros or cons.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&vxp=mtr&item=360471498641#ht_832wt_1163

Here is the description from the auction:

This 5 1/4 by 3 1/4 by 1 1/2 inch compact yet powerful unit can be
hidden most anywhere
and all functions are controlled directly from your audio device
Maintains your cars original stock interior appearance.

50 Watts per channel, four channels (4 speaker outputs).
Plays through your existing 4 ohm speakers. Plenty of power for most speakers.
Includes power cord and speaker connections.
3.5 input for iPod/iPhone/ MP3 player (Cell phones, Microsoft Zune,
SanDisk Sansa, & Creative Zen)
It's like a mini CD changer with way more songs then any CD changer could hold.
BONUS 3.5 to 3.5 input cable is included. (sd card, usb stick, mp3
player, ipod, iphone NOT INCLUDED)
20% the size and 1/3 the cost of other hidden or "Secret Audio" systems.
Why pay for more then you need?
Includes Woody's Exclusive installation and operation instructions.
Large print and in English!
Will work in 6 volt vehicles and positive ground vehicles with
optional converter ($59)
Requires 4 ohm speakers, original (old) speakers may not sound good.
Upgraded speakers are available (6.5, 5X7, 6X9, & 4X10 dual voice coil
or 5.25, 5 inch, 3.5, 4 inch speaker pairs)
1 Year Manufacturer Warranty

Thanks,

Brad

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Jul  6 17:31:16 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2012 16:31:16 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 vacuum port
In-Reply-To: <E100C994-DBDF-4212-B2C7-60E4E52A9FFF@mgcarclub.com>
References: <E100C994-DBDF-4212-B2C7-60E4E52A9FFF@mgcarclub.com>
Message-ID: <083301cd5bcf$712db070$53891150$@rr.com>

> However, I don't have any manifold vacuum
> port other than the advance line in the carburetor. And I'm not sure
> that would work as it lies beneath the throttle plate.

Right, not what you need.

> The intake manifold has two bosses cast into the balance tube which
> certainly looks like Triumph was thinking about this but it would have
> to be drilled and tapped. Anyone else been down this road?

My 3A had the earlier manifold without the bosses.  I drilled and tapped
anyway, in two different places, one in the center of the balance tube and
the other on the front.  The walls appeared to be thick enough to hold 1/8
NPT threads without any trouble.

If you look closely (best to zoom in, sorry I don't have a higher res photo)
at
http://goo.gl/2cQS1
maybe you can see the hex head plug that is in the hole in the balance tube;
and a rubber cap on the added fitting at the front.  The fitting at the
front was the one I used for a vacuum gauge, while the one in the balance
tube was a leftover from an abortive attempt to add water injection.  (The
duct tape on the air filters covers two more holes, where the water was to
go in.)

-- Randall 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Jul  6 18:35:23 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2012 17:35:23 -0700
Subject: [TR] MP3 / IPOD hidden stereo
In-Reply-To: <CADm3DLHdWZNE-1o2_kSAQ1zUYff2Ybc1WS=DJ_vDnUi8ma_o1A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CADm3DLHdWZNE-1o2_kSAQ1zUYff2Ybc1WS=DJ_vDnUi8ma_o1A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <086e01cd5bd8$658d6040$30a820c0$@rr.com>

> Anyone out there ever use a stereo like this for their car?  If so any
> pros or cons.

I have not.  For one thing, that is not a "stereo", just an amplifier.  It
has to be wired to some sort of player to function.  Possibly you aren't
worried about having a device on the end of a wire roaming around loose
inside the cockpit, but I am very opposed to such things.

Other than that, I guess the concept and price is reasonable.  However, I'd
want to ask some pointed questions about what, exactly, that "50 watt"
rating means.  If that is 50 watts RMS 20Hz to 20kHz continuous with THD
below 0.1%; wonderful.  But if it is only 50 watts "peak", I think you'll be
unhappy.  Just saying "50 watts" is kind of like "fresh frozen fish", it
doesn't mean a thing.

Unless you really want 4 channels, you might shop around for a 2-channel
amp.  Some very brief poking around turned up a 700 watt x 2 Pyle for $60
(including shipping) @ Amazon.  Larger footprint, but about the same
thickness (should fit nicely above the gas tank).
http://goo.gl/KTSqx

Another thing to consider is where that power is coming from.  A stock TR4
generator only puts out about 250 watts, and most of that is needed for the
engine, headlights, etc.  Since audio amps are rarely more than 50%-60%
efficient, a real 50x4 output is going to require something on the order of
400 watts input power (like 30 amps).  If you are serious about playing
music loud enough to be heard over the wind noise, you'll need an alternator
conversion.

-- Randall 

From cregg.cowan at sri.com  Sat Jul  7 08:47:03 2012
From: cregg.cowan at sri.com (Cregg Cowan)
Date: Sat, 07 Jul 2012 07:47:03 -0700
Subject: [TR] Seeking Herald in Rough Condition
In-Reply-To: <1341666350.73873.YahooMailNeo@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <1341666350.73873.YahooMailNeo@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4FF84BE7.7050401@sri.com>

Hi Bill,

Thank you very much --- this may be just what we're looking for.

Yes please do take a couple of photos (if not too inconvenient) and
give him my email (cregg.cowan at sri.com) and daytime phone 650 859 2403.

Hope to see you in Flagstaff at Triumphest.

Cregg

William Brewer wrote:
>      There is an abandoned two tone pale blue & white two door Herald 
> coup abandoned here in Tehachapi (about 5 or 6 hours from San Jose). I 
> have been told that someone cut some of the bodywork to put in a V6 or 
> something. I have not looked personally. I did see the car on Ebay, 
> but there were no bids. I could stop by and get contact info and take 
> some pix for you if you are interested.
>      I could also give the guy your contact information if you send it 
> to me.
>
>      Bill in Tehachapi
>
> Date: Thu, 05 Jul 2012 18:04:20 -0700
> From: Cregg Cowan <cregg.cowan at sri.com <mailto:cregg.cowan at sri.com>>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [TR] Seeking Herald in Rough Condition
> Message-ID: <4FF63994.2050400 at sri.com <mailto:4FF63994.2050400 at sri.com>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> Fellow Triumph Enthusiasts,
>
> Several of us in the San Francisco are Triumph club (Triumph Travelers)
> have gotten interested in Lemons racing, and have been driving with a
> team that campaigns a MGB (sacrilege!).We would like to put together a
> Triumph based Lemons car and our first choice is a Herald, since it is
> somewhat unusual, shares so many parts with widely-available Spitfires,
> and has body-on-frame configuration that is easy to maintain / work on.
>
> Do any of you know of a Herald rusting away under a tree or behind a
> shed?Ideally within ~8 hours drive of San Jose?
>
> Thanks in Advance,
>
> Cregg Cowan, Andy Packard and John Sisler

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Sat Jul  7 10:03:12 2012
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2012 12:03:12 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Chevy Truck Question - the only relevance to Triumphs is rust:)
Message-ID: <2b613.5ecd854b.3d29b7c0@aol.com>

List,
 
Please respond off-line so we don't tie up the bandwidth with non-TR  
emails.....but my question is related to rust so there is a definite connection  
to Triumphs there!
 
I need a source for new steel fuel lines (front from engine to filter and  
rear from filter to tank) plus all metal brake lines for my 1994 Chevy S-10  
pickup.  Even our good friends at Classic Tube can't help  me!
 
I've always been careful to rinse the chassis as often as  possible after 
driving in salt but I guess the weather has been too  rough for the wonderful 
Chinese steel lines that GM must have used in  1994. 
 
TIA,
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack,  PA
1976 TR6 CF57822U

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Sat Jul  7 07:05:50 2012
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2012 06:05:50 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Seeking Herald in Rough Condition
Message-ID: <1341666350.73873.YahooMailNeo@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     There is an abandoned two tone pale blue & white two door Herald coup
abandoned here in Tehachapi (about 5 or 6 hours from San Jose). I have been
told that someone cut some of the bodywork to put in a V6 or something. I have
not looked personally. I did see the car on Ebay, but there were no bids. I
could stop by and get contact info and take some pix for you if you are
interested.
     I could also give the guy your contact information if you
send it to me.


     Bill in Tehachapi


Date: Thu, 05 Jul 2012 18:04:20
-0700
From: Cregg Cowan <cregg.cowan at sri.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Seeking Herald in Rough Condition
Message-ID:
<4FF63994.2050400 at sri.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1;
format=flowed

Fellow Triumph Enthusiasts,

Several of us in the San Francisco
are Triumph club (Triumph Travelers) 
have gotten interested in Lemons racing,
and have been driving with a 
team that campaigns a MGB (sacrilege!).We would
like to put together a 
Triumph based Lemons car and our first choice is a
Herald, since it is 
somewhat unusual, shares so many parts with
widely-available Spitfires, 
and has body-on-frame configuration that is easy
to maintain / work on.

Do any of you know of a Herald rusting away under a
tree or behind a 
shed?Ideally within ~8 hours drive of San Jose?

Thanks in
Advance,

Cregg Cowan, Andy Packard and John Sisler

From davgil at aol.com  Sat Jul  7 12:21:49 2012
From: davgil at aol.com (davgil at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2012 14:21:49 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Horn issues
Message-ID: <8CF2A848206359B-21D8-38789@webmail-m015.sysops.aol.com>

I am trying to troubleshoot weak or no sound from the horns on my very stock
1976 TR6.  My shop manual describes an adjustment procedure, but I don't
believe that adjustment is my problem (and as usual, my horns don't have the
described adjustment screw).  I am getting approximately 6 volts at the horn
connection.  I suspect that I have some corrosion issue or a failing relay,
but before I contine to scuttle downj useless paths, I wanted to determine if
6v was the proper voltage at the horns.  As I continued to press and release
the horn button, I got more response from the horns as if something was
gradually releasing, but then blew the fuse.  I looked in the archives, but
did not find this specific information.  If someone has experience in this
area, I would appreciate it.
Regards,
David Gill
1976 TR6

From JGILLIS at tcd.ie  Sat Jul  7 13:06:10 2012
From: JGILLIS at tcd.ie (John Gillis)
Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2012 20:06:10 +0100
Subject: [TR] First run, big smie and question
Message-ID: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB0345097A64DB@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>

On a very sunny (honest) day in Dublin, took the TR2 on the public roads for
the first time in probably 40 years for the car and nearing the end of my 15
year project, driving about 30 miles. It drove without knocks or bangs, slight
adjustment to the mixture and timing improved running, it does have an odd
wobble at the front around 20mph, but nothing either side. My question is:
when fully warmed up and I must say the temperature gauge sits bang in the
middle throughout, at tick-over I have on the oil gauge 25psi and driving at
2000rpm around 40mph I have 50psi, how do these figures seem for a rebuilt
engine?
I still have a stupid grin on my face!

John
1954 TR2 Long Door

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Sat Jul  7 13:34:07 2012
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2012 14:34:07 -0500
Subject: [TR] First run, big smie and question
In-Reply-To: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB0345097A64DB@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>
References: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB0345097A64DB@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>
Message-ID: <160F796706184337A30CC5CBBFF83AA1@GregPC>

Sounds right to me, keep grinning, Greg Lemon

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Sat Jul  7 13:38:38 2012
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Sat, 07 Jul 2012 14:38:38 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] First run, big smie and question
Message-ID: <22260433.1211140.1341689918957.JavaMail.root@vms170033>

TR6 guy myself, but those numbers sound pretty good to me.  First day on vacation, I am smiling with you!
 
Congrats!
 
Craig
1972 Triumph TR6 


On 07/07/12, John Gillis<JGILLIS at tcd.ie> wrote:

On a very sunny (honest) day in Dublin, took the TR2 on the public roads for
the first time in probably 40 years for the car and nearing the end of my 15
year project, driving about 30 miles. It drove without knocks or bangs, slight
adjustment to the mixture and timing improved running, it does have an odd
wobble at the front around 20mph, but nothing either side. My question is:
when fully warmed up and I must say the temperature gauge sits bang in the
middle throughout, at tick-over I have on the oil gauge 25psi and driving at
2000rpm around 40mph I have 50psi, how do these figures seem for a rebuilt
engine?
I still have a stupid grin on my face!

John
1954 TR2 Long Door

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Sat Jul  7 14:47:10 2012
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2012 13:47:10 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] vacuum advance thumbscrew
Message-ID: <1341694030.42237.YahooMailNeo@web65509.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

I've read some place that a complete 360 turn on the distributor vacuum
advance thumbscrew (tr-3 motor) equals 8 degrees of either advance or retard,
whichever is needed.  If I've set up everything TDC compression stroke,
pointer on hole in pulley.................(thumbscrew set in middle of its
range................then I simply turn thumbscrew half a turn advance
direction and I'm all set for start-up?

Just checking to be sure.  Getting
ready for initial start up here.

gary n.

From k_nachman at comcast.net  Sat Jul  7 14:56:10 2012
From: k_nachman at comcast.net (Ken Nachman)
Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2012 16:56:10 -0400
Subject: [TR] MP3 / IPOD hidden stereo
In-Reply-To: <CADm3DLHdWZNE-1o2_kSAQ1zUYff2Ybc1WS=DJ_vDnUi8ma_o1A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CADm3DLHdWZNE-1o2_kSAQ1zUYff2Ybc1WS=DJ_vDnUi8ma_o1A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <00eb01cd5c82$f0be4e40$d23aeac0$@net>

Brad - I recently installed this exact unit from Woody's into my '69 TR6. I
removed a "modern" CD player the previous owner had installed. I bought a
new uncut dash support and put a period radio that is not connected (but I
guess I could have used a blanking plate). It looks great and I play my iPod
through my 4 speakers. Sounds good and I can even hear it with the top down.
I control the volume on my iPhone.
Ken Nachman
Richmond Triumph Register
1969 TR6

-----Original Message-----
From: Brad Kahler [mailto:bkahler1 at gmail.com] 
Sent: Friday, July 06, 2012 7:14 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] MP3 / IPOD hidden stereo

Anyone out there ever use a stereo like this for their car?  If so any pros
or cons.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&vxp=mtr&item=360471498641#ht_8
32wt_1163

Here is the description from the auction:

This 5 1/4 by 3 1/4 by 1 1/2 inch compact yet powerful unit can be hidden
most anywhere and all functions are controlled directly from your audio
device Maintains your cars original stock interior appearance.

50 Watts per channel, four channels (4 speaker outputs).
Plays through your existing 4 ohm speakers. Plenty of power for most
speakers.
Includes power cord and speaker connections.
3.5 input for iPod/iPhone/ MP3 player (Cell phones, Microsoft Zune, SanDisk
Sansa, & Creative Zen) It's like a mini CD changer with way more songs then
any CD changer could hold.
BONUS 3.5 to 3.5 input cable is included. (sd card, usb stick, mp3 player,
ipod, iphone NOT INCLUDED) 20% the size and 1/3 the cost of other hidden or
"Secret Audio" systems.
Why pay for more then you need?
Includes Woody's Exclusive installation and operation instructions.
Large print and in English!
Will work in 6 volt vehicles and positive ground vehicles with optional
converter ($59) Requires 4 ohm speakers, original (old) speakers may not
sound good.
Upgraded speakers are available (6.5, 5X7, 6X9, & 4X10 dual voice coil or
5.25, 5 inch, 3.5, 4 inch speaker pairs)
1 Year Manufacturer Warranty

Thanks,

Brad

From triumphs at consolidated.net  Sat Jul  7 15:07:25 2012
From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Home Consolidated)
Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2012 16:07:25 -0500
Subject: [TR] First run, big smie and question
In-Reply-To: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB0345097A64DB@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>
References: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB0345097A64DB@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>
Message-ID: <8F15AEF6-FBCB-44E8-AED7-0BFA49C98A3B@consolidated.net>

Congrats.  It's a great feeling

Ken Gano

Sent from my iPad

On Jul 7, 2012, at 2:06 PM, John Gillis <JGILLIS at tcd.ie> wrote:

> On a very sunny (honest) day in Dublin, took the TR2 on the public roads
for
> the first time in probably 40 years for the car and nearing the end of my
15
> year project, driving about 30 miles. It drove without knocks or bangs,
slight
> adjustment to the mixture and timing improved running, it does have an odd
> wobble at the front around 20mph, but nothing either side. My question is:
> when fully warmed up and I must say the temperature gauge sits bang in the
> middle throughout, at tick-over I have on the oil gauge 25psi and driving
at
> 2000rpm around 40mph I have 50psi, how do these figures seem for a rebuilt
> engine?
> I still have a stupid grin on my face!
>
> John
> 1954 TR2 Long Door
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumphs at consolidated.net

From guy at genfiniti.com  Sat Jul  7 15:19:44 2012
From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins)
Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2012 16:19:44 -0500
Subject: [TR] vacuum advance thumbscrew
In-Reply-To: <1341694030.42237.YahooMailNeo@web65509.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <1341694030.42237.YahooMailNeo@web65509.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <461A91B0-BC99-44BF-B685-CE42476E8FA8@genfiniti.com>

I've heard the same.. and have read it as well.
What you are describing sounds like static ignition timing 101 right from the
manual..

On Jul 7, 2012, at 3:47 PM, Gary Nafziger wrote:

> I've read some place that a complete 360 turn on the distributor vacuum
> advance thumbscrew (tr-3 motor) equals 8 degrees of either advance or
retard,
> whichever is needed.  If I've set up everything TDC compression stroke,
> pointer on hole in pulley.................(thumbscrew set in middle of its
> range................then I simply turn thumbscrew half a turn advance
> direction and I'm all set for start-up?
>
> Just checking to be sure.  Getting
> ready for initial start up here.
>
> gary n.
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/guy at genfiniti.com

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Jul  7 15:23:40 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2012 14:23:40 -0700
Subject: [TR] Horn issues
In-Reply-To: <8CF2A848206359B-21D8-38789@webmail-m015.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CF2A848206359B-21D8-38789@webmail-m015.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <05e001cd5c86$c7fa5fe0$0601a8c0@randall>

> I wanted to determine if
> 6v was the proper voltage at the horns. 

Nope, should be 12v at the horns.

> As I continued to press and release
> the horn button, I got more response from the horns as if 
> something was
> gradually releasing, but then blew the fuse.

I would try getting the voltage at the horns up first, as low voltage can
cause exactly those symptoms.  Because of the way they work, horns can
actually draw more current if the voltage is low (especially if one was not
sounding at all).  It's possible that one or both of the horns is bad, but
not likely I think (and you'll need to repair the electrical stuff anyway
even if you do wind up replacing the horns).

-- Randall  

From greg at gelhar.com  Sat Jul  7 15:28:40 2012
From: greg at gelhar.com (Greg  Gelhar)
Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2012 16:28:40 -0500
Subject: [TR] Horn issues
References: <8CF2A848206359B-21D8-38789@webmail-m015.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <908059567B164FF5A0C415C31A579176@triumph>

I have found the fuse holder to be the problem. A corroded fuse clip will 
add sufficient resistance to keep the horns from working. Resistance will 
make for a hot connection and that may have "melted" your fuse.

Greg G.
Osseo, MN



----- Original Message ----- 
From: <davgil at aol.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>; <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 07, 2012 1:21 PM
Subject: [TR] Horn issues


>I am trying to troubleshoot weak or no sound from the horns on my very 
>stock
> 1976 TR6.  My shop manual describes an adjustment procedure, but I don't
> believe that adjustment is my problem (and as usual, my horns don't have 
> the
> described adjustment screw).  I am getting approximately 6 volts at the 
> horn
> connection.  I suspect that I have some corrosion issue or a failing 
> relay,
> but before I contine to scuttle downj useless paths, I wanted to determine 
> if
> 6v was the proper voltage at the horns.  As I continued to press and 
> release
> the horn button, I got more response from the horns as if something was
> gradually releasing, but then blew the fuse.  I looked in the archives, 
> but
> did not find this specific information.  If someone has experience in this
> area, I would appreciate it.
> Regards,
> David Gill
> 1976 TR6
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/greg at gelhar.com

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Jul  7 15:29:03 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2012 14:29:03 -0700
Subject: [TR] vacuum advance thumbscrew
In-Reply-To: <1341694030.42237.YahooMailNeo@web65509.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <1341694030.42237.YahooMailNeo@web65509.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <05e101cd5c87$881e7450$0601a8c0@randall>

> range................then I simply turn thumbscrew half a turn advance
> direction and I'm all set for start-up?

Nope.  I forget the exact number offhand (although I've posted it before),
but it takes more than one turn to get even 4 degrees of advance.  Look at
the marks on the advance unit instead, they are 4 (crankshaft) degrees
apart.

-- Randall  

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Jul  7 15:40:46 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2012 14:40:46 -0700
Subject: [TR] First run, big smie and question
In-Reply-To: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB0345097A64DB@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>
References: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB0345097A64DB@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>
Message-ID: <05f101cd5c89$2b479980$0601a8c0@randall>

> and driving at
> 2000rpm around 40mph I have 50psi, how do these figures seem 
> for a rebuilt
> engine?

I hate to say this, knowing how much effort you have put into your TR2, but
I am going to anyway.  Those numbers seem somewhat low to me, for a freshly
rebuilt engine.  Not low enough to require immediate action, but low enough
to indicate that something is not as it should be.  Those are about the
numbers I see with my TR3, and I know it has significantly worn main and cam
bearings.  (They were lower before I replaced the rod bearings, which were
worn into the copper backing.  My plan is to drive it for a few years, until
I can rebuild a spare engine for it.)

The very first thing I would check is the accuracy of the gauge.  It's not
at all uncommon for them to lose accuracy over the years.

Just curious, are you still running the original bypass type oil filter?

-- Randall  

From wbeech at flash.net  Sat Jul  7 15:44:26 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (WBEECH)
Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2012 16:44:26 -0500
Subject: [TR] vacuum advance thumbscrew
In-Reply-To: <1341694030.42237.YahooMailNeo@web65509.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <1341694030.42237.YahooMailNeo@web65509.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <2B15D046840E447882DAB6BCC43B55AE@bboffice>

Honestly I don't use the thumbscrew, I just set up a light and get as close
to 4 degrees BTDC as I can.  This will get it started just fine then you put
a timing light on it and fine tune with the thumbscrew from there.

The manual says that one mark on the wheel adjustment gauge is 4 degrees,
doesn't say how many turns it takes to get there.

Bill 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary Nafziger
Sent: Saturday, July 07, 2012 3:47 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] vacuum advance thumbscrew

I've read some place that a complete 360 turn on the distributor vacuum
advance thumbscrew (tr-3 motor) equals 8 degrees of either advance or
retard, whichever is needed.  If I've set up everything TDC compression
stroke, pointer on hole in pulley.................(thumbscrew set in middle
of its range................then I simply turn thumbscrew half a turn
advance direction and I'm all set for start-up?

Just checking to be sure.  Getting
ready for initial start up here.

gary n.

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From guy at genfiniti.com  Sat Jul  7 15:50:33 2012
From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins)
Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2012 16:50:33 -0500
Subject: [TR] First run, big smie and question
In-Reply-To: <8F15AEF6-FBCB-44E8-AED7-0BFA49C98A3B@consolidated.net>
References: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB0345097A64DB@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>
	<8F15AEF6-FBCB-44E8-AED7-0BFA49C98A3B@consolidated.net>
Message-ID: <F93522CE-5743-4701-9116-A6B0FE162028@genfiniti.com>

Congrats John.

I just got a restored 1965 TR4A back on the road last September, here in Fort
Worth, Texas.
Your oil pressure settings look close to mine, maybe even a little higher.

I played with mixture/timing for about six months before I reached a "good
enough" abandonment point.

Enjoy!!


On Jul 7, 2012, at 4:07 PM, Home Consolidated wrote:

> Congrats.  It's a great feeling
>
> Ken Gano
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Jul 7, 2012, at 2:06 PM, John Gillis <JGILLIS at tcd.ie> wrote:
>
>> On a very sunny (honest) day in Dublin, took the TR2 on the public roads
> for
>> the first time in probably 40 years for the car and nearing the end of my
> 15
>> year project, driving about 30 miles. It drove without knocks or bangs,
> slight
>> adjustment to the mixture and timing improved running, it does have an odd
>> wobble at the front around 20mph, but nothing either side. My question is:
>> when fully warmed up and I must say the temperature gauge sits bang in the
>> middle throughout, at tick-over I have on the oil gauge 25psi and driving
> at
>> 2000rpm around 40mph I have 50psi, how do these figures seem for a rebuilt
>> engine?
>> I still have a stupid grin on my face!
>>
>> John
>> 1954 TR2 Long Door
>>
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumphs at consolidated.net
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/guy at genfiniti.com

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Sat Jul  7 16:16:02 2012
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2012 17:16:02 -0500
Subject: [TR] First run, big smie and question
In-Reply-To: <05f101cd5c89$2b479980$0601a8c0@randall>
References: <F3ADC4F5824AE54A8F71B0D3D55F91FB0345097A64DB@GOMAIL.college.tcd.ie>
	<05f101cd5c89$2b479980$0601a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <55AFE0534DCC48C1A24020AA34066EE6@GregPC>

I will follow up Randall's comment with a couple questions, what weight of 
oil are you running? was it hot outside? car fully warmed up.  I don't think 
the numbers sound bad, 2000 rpm is still spinning pretty slow, if it stills 
goes up to about 60 psi or a little more at 2500 to 3000 that would be in 
the ballpark.  My brother's TR3 and my TR4a both ran about 60 psi hot on a 
fresh rebuild at highway speeds (2500 rpm or a little more in O/D).

So I don't disagree with Randall, it may be slightly low, but doesn't seem 
too far off to me.

Greg Lemon

From hdeferr at gmail.com  Tue Jul  3 10:40:50 2012
From: hdeferr at gmail.com (HANS DEFERRANTE)
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2012 09:40:50 -0700
Subject: [TR] Got Me a Spit
Message-ID: <F67C9B85-A394-4CA3-BCED-1A65B18E667C@gmail.com>

After having driven someone's Spit, I decided I had to have one and picked up
a 1976 fixer-upper; mechanically sound, very little rust, but in dire need of
a facelift Has anyone considered putting EFI in those 1500's to get more HP?

From spitlist at cox.net  Sun Jul  8 01:01:45 2012
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Sun, 8 Jul 2012 00:01:45 -0700
Subject: [TR] Got Me a Spit
In-Reply-To: <F67C9B85-A394-4CA3-BCED-1A65B18E667C@gmail.com>
References: <F67C9B85-A394-4CA3-BCED-1A65B18E667C@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <B843DD11CF284EAA9B679F7CF0688EA1@Vista>

I have EFI on my Mk1 with a 1300 engine.  No reason the same system won't
work on a 1500.

http://spitlist.info/EFI.htm

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of HANS DEFERRANTE
Sent: Tuesday, July 03, 2012 9:41 AM
To: Triumph List
Subject: [TR] Got Me a Spit

After having driven someone's Spit, I decided I had to have one and picked
up
a 1976 fixer-upper; mechanically sound, very little rust, but in dire need
of
a facelift Has anyone considered putting EFI in those 1500's to get more HP?

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net

From bkahler1 at gmail.com  Sun Jul  8 08:25:05 2012
From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Sun, 8 Jul 2012 10:25:05 -0400
Subject: [TR] single post test
Message-ID: <CADm3DLE_b142O1ZcvBzsP+gWoyR6t4mGZdivhMF7JAxFeHE4cg@mail.gmail.com>

Just checking to see if I get individual posts through the list.

From bkahler1 at gmail.com  Sun Jul  8 09:20:50 2012
From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Sun, 8 Jul 2012 11:20:50 -0400
Subject: [TR] MP3 / IPOD hidden stereo
In-Reply-To: <00eb01cd5c82$f0be4e40$d23aeac0$@net>
References: <CADm3DLHdWZNE-1o2_kSAQ1zUYff2Ybc1WS=DJ_vDnUi8ma_o1A@mail.gmail.com>
	<00eb01cd5c82$f0be4e40$d23aeac0$@net>
Message-ID: <CADm3DLHwfM09aSvBFv4whDfAkwmVh+7G2ToFnWcBOOxqMLon8Q@mail.gmail.com>

Ken,

What type of speakers did you buy, where did you mount them and how
did you mount them?  Currently I have no sound system in the car.

Where did you mount the amplifier?  You're using it the way I envision
using one if I decide to go that route.  I don't care to install a
radio/stereo partly because I don't want to hassle with an antenna and
also because my radio plate has to cigarette lighter outlets in it.

Also where do you put your iphone while driving?

Thanks!

Brad

On Sat, Jul 7, 2012 at 4:56 PM, Ken Nachman <k_nachman at comcast.net> wrote:
> Brad - I recently installed this exact unit from Woody's into my '69 TR6. I
> removed a "modern" CD player the previous owner had installed. I bought a
> new uncut dash support and put a period radio that is not connected (but I
> guess I could have used a blanking plate). It looks great and I play my iPod
> through my 4 speakers. Sounds good and I can even hear it with the top down.
> I control the volume on my iPhone.
> Ken Nachman
> Richmond Triumph Register
> 1969 TR6
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Brad Kahler [mailto:bkahler1 at gmail.com]
> Sent: Friday, July 06, 2012 7:14 PM
> To: Triumphs
> Subject: [TR] MP3 / IPOD hidden stereo
>
> Anyone out there ever use a stereo like this for their car?  If so any pros
> or cons.
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&vxp=mtr&item=360471498641#ht_8
> 32wt_1163
>
> Here is the description from the auction:
>
> This 5 1/4 by 3 1/4 by 1 1/2 inch compact yet powerful unit can be hidden
> most anywhere and all functions are controlled directly from your audio
> device Maintains your cars original stock interior appearance.
>
> 50 Watts per channel, four channels (4 speaker outputs).
> Plays through your existing 4 ohm speakers. Plenty of power for most
> speakers.
> Includes power cord and speaker connections.
> 3.5 input for iPod/iPhone/ MP3 player (Cell phones, Microsoft Zune, SanDisk
> Sansa, & Creative Zen) It's like a mini CD changer with way more songs then
> any CD changer could hold.
> BONUS 3.5 to 3.5 input cable is included. (sd card, usb stick, mp3 player,
> ipod, iphone NOT INCLUDED) 20% the size and 1/3 the cost of other hidden or
> "Secret Audio" systems.
> Why pay for more then you need?
> Includes Woody's Exclusive installation and operation instructions.
> Large print and in English!
> Will work in 6 volt vehicles and positive ground vehicles with optional
> converter ($59) Requires 4 ohm speakers, original (old) speakers may not
> sound good.
> Upgraded speakers are available (6.5, 5X7, 6X9, & 4X10 dual voice coil or
> 5.25, 5 inch, 3.5, 4 inch speaker pairs)
> 1 Year Manufacturer Warranty
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brad

From bkahler1 at gmail.com  Sun Jul  8 09:24:53 2012
From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Sun, 8 Jul 2012 11:24:53 -0400
Subject: [TR] MP3 / IPOD hidden stereo
Message-ID: <CADm3DLHzQUarmu8g42HGVo-bTMmv0qyR0sXREP05ONNMmH9_Sg@mail.gmail.com>

Randall,

I guess I use the term "stereo" generically for anything that would be a
sound system in a car :)  Kinda like how people use the terms skilsaw
instead of circular saw, crescent wrench instead of adjustable wrench.

In my spitfire I had a remote on the end of a wire and I just tucked it
down between the seat the the tunnel to keep it from flopping around.
 Having been in a roll over accedent a few years ago I'm not thrilled with
anything being loose inside the car.

The unit you listed from Amazon is interesting but I don't think I have
room enough for speakers for it :)   Also I don't know if it would work
from the speaker output of an iphone.

Brad


> Anyone out there ever use a stereo like this for their car?  If so any
> pros or cons.

I have not.  For one thing, that is not a "stereo", just an amplifier.  It
has to be wired to some sort of player to function.  Possibly you aren't
worried about having a device on the end of a wire roaming around loose
inside the cockpit, but I am very opposed to such things.

Other than that, I guess the concept and price is reasonable.  However, I'd
want to ask some pointed questions about what, exactly, that "50 watt"
rating means.  If that is 50 watts RMS 20Hz to 20kHz continuous with THD
below 0.1%; wonderful.  But if it is only 50 watts "peak", I think you'll be
unhappy.  Just saying "50 watts" is kind of like "fresh frozen fish", it
doesn't mean a thing.

Unless you really want 4 channels, you might shop around for a 2-channel
amp.  Some very brief poking around turned up a 700 watt x 2 Pyle for $60
(including shipping) @ Amazon.  Larger footprint, but about the same
thickness (should fit nicely above the gas tank).
http://goo.gl/KTSqx

Another thing to consider is where that power is coming from.  A stock TR4
generator only puts out about 250 watts, and most of that is needed for the
engine, headlights, etc.  Since audio amps are rarely more than 50%-60%
efficient, a real 50x4 output is going to require something on the order of
400 watts input power (like 30 amps).  If you are serious about playing
music loud enough to be heard over the wind noise, you'll need an alternator
conversion.

-- Randall

From emanteno at comcast.net  Sun Jul  8 09:54:14 2012
From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey)
Date: Sun, 8 Jul 2012 10:54:14 -0500
Subject: [TR] single post test
In-Reply-To: <CADm3DLE_b142O1ZcvBzsP+gWoyR6t4mGZdivhMF7JAxFeHE4cg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CADm3DLE_b142O1ZcvBzsP+gWoyR6t4mGZdivhMF7JAxFeHE4cg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFWFMyhSF_7v_OUYOXvfL8o8HP6=8ihdFsQ6F6pYqTeoeCGyEQ@mail.gmail.com>

On Sun, Jul 8, 2012 at 9:25 AM, Brad Kahler <bkahler1 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Just checking to see if I get individual posts through the list.
>


It seems to be working, Brad.

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Jul  8 09:57:45 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 8 Jul 2012 08:57:45 -0700
Subject: [TR] MP3 / IPOD hidden stereo
In-Reply-To: <CADm3DLHzQUarmu8g42HGVo-bTMmv0qyR0sXREP05ONNMmH9_Sg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CADm3DLHzQUarmu8g42HGVo-bTMmv0qyR0sXREP05ONNMmH9_Sg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <06b401cd5d22$6a9010b0$0601a8c0@randall>

> I guess I use the term "stereo" generically for anything that 
> would be a sound system in a car :) 

No worries, Brad, I wasn't trying to quibble about the word; just wanted to
be sure you understood what it was.  If it suits you, then that's fine.

I'm coming up on more or less the same decision myself; but leaning towards
what I did before, which was to mount a CD-MP3 player in place of the
glovebox.  Opening the glovebox door would provide full access to the front
panel, but generally I could just reach up behind the dash and do what I
wanted.  Not at all obvious it was there (so less concern about theft).
Since it had AM/FM/XM (although I never used the XM), I could tune into
local weather or news.  These days I suppose everyone does that with their
phone, but I don't (and I do occasionally travel where there is no cell
coverage).

But I mostly enjoy listening to audio books, especially on long trips.  It's
easy and cheap to burn them to CD in MP3 format (generally I get 3 books on
a $.10 CD) and then if the CD gets damaged, lost or stolen; I just burn
another one.

I didn't check the specs on the Pyle, but pretty much anything like that
should operate from your headphone output.  And of course you don't have to
run at 700 watts (or have speakers that will handle it) if you don't want
to.

-- Randall  

From sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com  Sun Jul  8 09:58:48 2012
From: sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com (Steve Thornton)
Date: Sun, 8 Jul 2012 10:58:48 -0500
Subject: [TR] MP3 / IPOD hidden stereo
In-Reply-To: <CADm3DLHwfM09aSvBFv4whDfAkwmVh+7G2ToFnWcBOOxqMLon8Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CADm3DLHdWZNE-1o2_kSAQ1zUYff2Ybc1WS=DJ_vDnUi8ma_o1A@mail.gmail.com>
	<00eb01cd5c82$f0be4e40$d23aeac0$@net>
	<CADm3DLHwfM09aSvBFv4whDfAkwmVh+7G2ToFnWcBOOxqMLon8Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <5E807E88-068F-46AD-BF00-13C199EA7E93@stevethorntonlaw.com>

Brad et al-


My questions exactly.

Also, when the iPhone is playing music through this system, is it charging the
iPhone battery, or discharging?

Thanks in advance.



Steven O. Thornton
Attorney at Law
1011 Lehman Avenue
Suite 102
Bowling Green, KY.  42103
270-781-6630

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 8, 2012, at 10:43 AM, "Brad Kahler" <bkahler1 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Ken,
>
> What type of speakers did you buy, where did you mount them and how
> did you mount them?  Currently I have no sound system in the car.
>
> Where did you mount the amplifier?  You're using it the way I envision
> using one if I decide to go that route.  I don't care to install a
> radio/stereo partly because I don't want to hassle with an antenna and
> also because my radio plate has to cigarette lighter outlets in it.
>
> Also where do you put your iphone while driving?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Brad
>
> On Sat, Jul 7, 2012 at 4:56 PM, Ken Nachman <k_nachman at comcast.net> wrote:
>> Brad - I recently installed this exact unit from Woody's into my '69 TR6.
I
>> removed a "modern" CD player the previous owner had installed. I bought a
>> new uncut dash support and put a period radio that is not connected (but I
>> guess I could have used a blanking plate). It looks great and I play my
iPod
>> through my 4 speakers. Sounds good and I can even hear it with the top
down.
>> I control the volume on my iPhone.
>> Ken Nachman
>> Richmond Triumph Register
>> 1969 TR6
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Brad Kahler [mailto:bkahler1 at gmail.com]
>> Sent: Friday, July 06, 2012 7:14 PM
>> To: Triumphs
>> Subject: [TR] MP3 / IPOD hidden stereo
>>
>> Anyone out there ever use a stereo like this for their car?  If so any
pros
>> or cons.
>>
>>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&vxp=mtr&item=360471498641#ht_8
>> 32wt_1163
>>
>> Here is the description from the auction:
>>
>> This 5 1/4 by 3 1/4 by 1 1/2 inch compact yet powerful unit can be hidden
>> most anywhere and all functions are controlled directly from your audio
>> device Maintains your cars original stock interior appearance.
>>
>> 50 Watts per channel, four channels (4 speaker outputs).
>> Plays through your existing 4 ohm speakers. Plenty of power for most
>> speakers.
>> Includes power cord and speaker connections.
>> 3.5 input for iPod/iPhone/ MP3 player (Cell phones, Microsoft Zune,
SanDisk
>> Sansa, & Creative Zen) It's like a mini CD changer with way more songs
then
>> any CD changer could hold.
>> BONUS 3.5 to 3.5 input cable is included. (sd card, usb stick, mp3 player,
>> ipod, iphone NOT INCLUDED) 20% the size and 1/3 the cost of other hidden
or
>> "Secret Audio" systems.
>> Why pay for more then you need?
>> Includes Woody's Exclusive installation and operation instructions.
>> Large print and in English!
>> Will work in 6 volt vehicles and positive ground vehicles with optional
>> converter ($59) Requires 4 ohm speakers, original (old) speakers may not
>> sound good.
>> Upgraded speakers are available (6.5, 5X7, 6X9, & 4X10 dual voice coil or
>> 5.25, 5 inch, 3.5, 4 inch speaker pairs)
>> 1 Year Manufacturer Warranty
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Brad
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.co
m

From bkahler1 at gmail.com  Sun Jul  8 10:08:11 2012
From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Sun, 8 Jul 2012 12:08:11 -0400
Subject: [TR] MP3 / IPOD hidden stereo
In-Reply-To: <06b401cd5d22$6a9010b0$0601a8c0@randall>
References: <CADm3DLHzQUarmu8g42HGVo-bTMmv0qyR0sXREP05ONNMmH9_Sg@mail.gmail.com>
	<06b401cd5d22$6a9010b0$0601a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <CADm3DLGf9rQ==W4AE77M64EBpAFWb0q_VGd5fe6MnGmgMsuXRQ@mail.gmail.com>

If the one on amazon does worth from the headphone output it just
might be worth it.

Personally I don't want to mess around with CDs in the car.  I would
think you would be better off using a system that accepts thumb
drives.  They are a lot cheaper now and easy to write to and don't
take up near the space that a CD does.

You are right about checking weather.  I just use my cell phone :)

On Sun, Jul 8, 2012 at 11:57 AM, Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
>> I guess I use the term "stereo" generically for anything that
>> would be a sound system in a car :)
>
> No worries, Brad, I wasn't trying to quibble about the word; just wanted to
> be sure you understood what it was.  If it suits you, then that's fine.
>
> I'm coming up on more or less the same decision myself; but leaning towards
> what I did before, which was to mount a CD-MP3 player in place of the
> glovebox.  Opening the glovebox door would provide full access to the front
> panel, but generally I could just reach up behind the dash and do what I
> wanted.  Not at all obvious it was there (so less concern about theft).
> Since it had AM/FM/XM (although I never used the XM), I could tune into
> local weather or news.  These days I suppose everyone does that with their
> phone, but I don't (and I do occasionally travel where there is no cell
> coverage).
>
> But I mostly enjoy listening to audio books, especially on long trips.  It's
> easy and cheap to burn them to CD in MP3 format (generally I get 3 books on
> a $.10 CD) and then if the CD gets damaged, lost or stolen; I just burn
> another one.
>
> I didn't check the specs on the Pyle, but pretty much anything like that
> should operate from your headphone output.  And of course you don't have to
> run at 700 watts (or have speakers that will handle it) if you don't want
> to.
>
> -- Randall

From bkahler1 at gmail.com  Sun Jul  8 10:28:42 2012
From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Sun, 8 Jul 2012 12:28:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] Most carburetor problems are electrical in nature (mostly off
 topic)
Message-ID: <CADm3DLHSTtr-fNLGye-uYjKTrMxdmTVk6H1kEJbChi7_r2AyiQ@mail.gmail.com>

The old adage: "Most carburetor problems are electrical in nature"

1)   Zero turn mower stopped running because we thought it was out of gas
2)   Filled the tank and it wouldn't start
3)   Battery runs down from cranking without starting
4)   Used truck with jumper cables to try and start with no success
5)   Towed mower back to shop (ever try to tow a hydraulic powered
zero turn mower when it isn't running?  Hint, it's not easy!)
6)   Pulled spark plug and verified there was spark, that means its fuel related
7)   Pulled fuel line from carburetor and verified flow coming from
fuel pump - there was
8)   As a test used different electric pump feeding from gas can and
still no start
9)   Replaced fuel filter just for the heck of it.
10) Pulled radiator and fan assemblies to get access to carburetor for
removal and rebuild
11) Rebuilt carburetor and also verified fuel shutoff solenoid was
functional and re-installed
12) Replaced alternator coil under flywheel while radiator and fan
were out of the way
13) Reassembled everything
14) Still doesn't want to start
15) Re-verified that electric fuel pump is pumping fuel - it was
16) As a test I again used a different electric pump feeding from gas
can and still no start
17) Decided there must be something wrong with fuel shutoff solenoid
18) Pulled radiator and fan assemblies to get access to fuel shutoff solenoid
19) Found only 1.4 vdc at solenoid - figured this was the problem
20) Tracing wire back and found that it comes out of the voltage regulator
21) Assumed voltage regulator was bad and prepared to order replacement
22) Before ordering I had a hunch.

My hunch was to check out all of the wiring.  I found the connector
between the motor and the mower harness was deteriorating and
crumbling.  This allowed the wire going to the fuel shutoff solenoid
to slip out of its socket and was only barely making contact which
accounted for the 1.4 vdc.  The wire that fed the ignition coil in
that same plastic connector was still making contact which is why the
spark plugs had spark.  All of the symptoms pointed to a fuel flow
problem and when you get down to the root cause there was no fuel
flow, unfortunately it was because of an electrical problem.

When it was all said and done, the mower had not run out of gas and
the carburetor didn't need to be rebuilt.  I did need to replace the
alternator coil under the flywheel so at some point I was going to
have to pull the radiator and fan assemblies to do that so not all was
lost.

So getting back to the very first sentence.  The old adage "Most
carburetor problems are electrical in nature" appears to have merit.

I hope your Saturday went better than mind did :)

From hdrider570 at att.net  Sun Jul  8 11:08:20 2012
From: hdrider570 at att.net (hdrider570 at att.net)
Date: Sun, 08 Jul 2012 10:08:20 -0700
Subject: [TR] First run, big smie and question
Message-ID: <4FF9BE84.5080004@att.net>

The factory manual says that you should have 70 psi when fully warmed 
up.  If you have less than this there is an adjustment on the oil 
pressure regulator spring.  Please note that if you did not replace this 
spring then you are never going to get the oil pressure right as the old 
one is worn out though age, heat, and rubbing against the side of the 
bore it rides in.

If you cannot achieve 70 psi with good oil on a "rebuilt" engine then 
you have other problems such as incorrect bearing clearance, worn oil 
pump etc.  On a good engine it is easy to get over 100 psi at 2,000 rpm 
though not recommended by anyone including me.

Edward Hamer
Petaluma CA

From k_nachman at comcast.net  Sun Jul  8 18:21:40 2012
From: k_nachman at comcast.net (Ken Nachman)
Date: Sun, 8 Jul 2012 20:21:40 -0400
Subject: [TR] MP3 / IPOD hidden stereo
In-Reply-To: <CADm3DLHwfM09aSvBFv4whDfAkwmVh+7G2ToFnWcBOOxqMLon8Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CADm3DLHdWZNE-1o2_kSAQ1zUYff2Ybc1WS=DJ_vDnUi8ma_o1A@mail.gmail.com>
	<00eb01cd5c82$f0be4e40$d23aeac0$@net>
	<CADm3DLHwfM09aSvBFv4whDfAkwmVh+7G2ToFnWcBOOxqMLon8Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <01b701cd5d68$cfa98df0$6efca9d0$@net>

Brad - Lots of questions: 
1) I have the speakers mounted in I think they are called the kidney pads
under the dash and another pair in the back upholstered panel. When I bought
the car it had some hideous white speakers some kid had installed. I
replaced them with black generic 6" speakers from eBay. My interior is black
so they are pretty much invisable. You should have seen the radio the DPO
had installed - it had a purple display that you couldn't turn off -- it
gave me a headache!
2) I installed the amp under the heater box above the transmission tunnel
behind a stock radio that doesn't work. I have an antenna but have never
used it.
3) I have an aftermarket power plug (cigarette lighter) hidden under the
dash connected to the accessory position on the ignition switch - remember
my car is a '69 model with a plinth mounted ignition switch. I usually use
it for the GPS on long(er) trips, but could connect the iPhone charger.
4) usually I put the phone on the passenger seat while driving because it
rings and I am a Realtor so I need to answer. My mobile office is often the
TR6.
Later 
Ken Nachman
'69 TR6

-----Original Message-----
From: Brad Kahler [mailto:bkahler1 at gmail.com] 
Sent: Sunday, July 08, 2012 11:21 AM
To: Ken Nachman
Cc: Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] MP3 / IPOD hidden stereo

Ken,

What type of speakers did you buy, where did you mount them and how did you
mount them?  Currently I have no sound system in the car.

Where did you mount the amplifier?  You're using it the way I envision using
one if I decide to go that route.  I don't care to install a radio/stereo
partly because I don't want to hassle with an antenna and also because my
radio plate has to cigarette lighter outlets in it.

Also where do you put your iphone while driving?

Thanks!

Brad

On Sat, Jul 7, 2012 at 4:56 PM, Ken Nachman <k_nachman at comcast.net> wrote:
> Brad - I recently installed this exact unit from Woody's into my '69 
> TR6. I removed a "modern" CD player the previous owner had installed. 
> I bought a new uncut dash support and put a period radio that is not 
> connected (but I guess I could have used a blanking plate). It looks 
> great and I play my iPod through my 4 speakers. Sounds good and I can even
hear it with the top down.
> I control the volume on my iPhone.
> Ken Nachman
> Richmond Triumph Register
> 1969 TR6
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Brad Kahler [mailto:bkahler1 at gmail.com]
> Sent: Friday, July 06, 2012 7:14 PM
> To: Triumphs
> Subject: [TR] MP3 / IPOD hidden stereo
>
> Anyone out there ever use a stereo like this for their car?  If so any 
> pros or cons.
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&vxp=mtr&item=36047149864
> 1#ht_8
> 32wt_1163
>
> Here is the description from the auction:
>
> This 5 1/4 by 3 1/4 by 1 1/2 inch compact yet powerful unit can be 
> hidden most anywhere and all functions are controlled directly from 
> your audio device Maintains your cars original stock interior appearance.
>
> 50 Watts per channel, four channels (4 speaker outputs).
> Plays through your existing 4 ohm speakers. Plenty of power for most 
> speakers.
> Includes power cord and speaker connections.
> 3.5 input for iPod/iPhone/ MP3 player (Cell phones, Microsoft Zune, 
> SanDisk Sansa, & Creative Zen) It's like a mini CD changer with way 
> more songs then any CD changer could hold.
> BONUS 3.5 to 3.5 input cable is included. (sd card, usb stick, mp3 
> player, ipod, iphone NOT INCLUDED) 20% the size and 1/3 the cost of 
> other hidden or "Secret Audio" systems.
> Why pay for more then you need?
> Includes Woody's Exclusive installation and operation instructions.
> Large print and in English!
> Will work in 6 volt vehicles and positive ground vehicles with 
> optional converter ($59) Requires 4 ohm speakers, original (old) 
> speakers may not sound good.
> Upgraded speakers are available (6.5, 5X7, 6X9, & 4X10 dual voice coil 
> or 5.25, 5 inch, 3.5, 4 inch speaker pairs)
> 1 Year Manufacturer Warranty
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brad

From pethier at comcast.net  Sun Jul  8 18:49:38 2012
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2012 00:49:38 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Virus check - no joke
In-Reply-To: <1339589393.63765.YahooMailNeo@web120903.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <10906438.2032335.1341794978147.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Virus check - no joke

In case you have been living in a cave, there is a big one hitting tomorrow

http://www.fbi.gov/news/stories/2011/november/malware_110911
http://dcwg.org/
http://dcwg.org/detect/
http://www.dcwg.org/fix/
http://forums.comcast.com/t5/Security-and-Anti-Virus/DNS-Changer-Bot-FAQ/td-p/1215341

If you don't believe me, find the FBI site on your own and check it out


Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://www.mnautox.com

From rjones at wFeca.net  Sun Jul  8 19:45:23 2012
From: rjones at wFeca.net (Robert Jones)
Date: Sun, 8 Jul 2012 20:45:23 -0500
Subject: [TR] Contact
Message-ID: <6AE60F75-A358-4F88-9B72-60868AA446D5@wFeca.net>

Hi:

If Al Salvatore is on, please contact me off list.  The e-mail address I have
for you isn't working.

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Jul  8 19:56:04 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 8 Jul 2012 18:56:04 -0700
Subject: [TR] Virus check - no joke
In-Reply-To: <10906438.2032335.1341794978147.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1339589393.63765.YahooMailNeo@web120903.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<10906438.2032335.1341794978147.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <078401cd5d76$006d0040$0601a8c0@randall>

> In case you have been living in a cave, there is a big one 
> hitting tomorrow

Not to be too picky, but it "hit" 6 months ago.  If you have been infected,
your passwords and whatnot are long gone.  All that happens tomorrow is
that, if you are still infected, your internet access stops working.

-- Randall  

From ptegler at verizon.net  Sun Jul  8 22:21:26 2012
From: ptegler at verizon.net (ptegler)
Date: Mon, 09 Jul 2012 00:21:26 -0400
Subject: [TR] Virus check - no joke
References: <1339589393.63765.YahooMailNeo@web120903.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<10906438.2032335.1341794978147.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<078401cd5d76$006d0040$0601a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <0125D0E38B44431DA6D286F6A2E62F36@dragonlairii>

...not quite all correct...close though.
All that is happening is the FBI is finally shutting down bogus DNS servers 
out there. A DNS server convert the names you type into numbers for routing.

They have let many (100's?) of  bogus DNS servers continue to run for well 
over a year+ now to track down the people that perpetrated them, as well as 
prepare to clean and correct the mis-directed traffic.

All these servers have been doing is directing to you to sites that 
basically gave them click-through advertisement $$ pay-outs for routing 
traffic to particular sites.
Once there they routed you to where it was you 'thought' you were going the 
first time you clicked on a link.

Yes, a couple were man-in-the-middle acts that did collect your passwords, 
but many of those were shut-down months ago.
Some say the whole NET will collapse, some say it's just another Y2K event.

Worst case. you'll have to wait for the correct(real)  DNS servers to 
re-propagate valid paths.

Paul Tegler
ptegler at verizon.net
www.teglerizer.com

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: <pethier at comcast.net>; <mntriumphsgroup at yahoogroups.com>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>; <british-cars at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 08, 2012 9:56 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Virus check - no joke


>> In case you have been living in a cave, there is a big one
>> hitting tomorrow
>
> Not to be too picky, but it "hit" 6 months ago.  If you have been 
> infected,
> your passwords and whatnot are long gone.  All that happens tomorrow is
> that, if you are still infected, your internet access stops working.
>
> -- Randall
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net 

From pethier at comcast.net  Sun Jul  8 22:24:22 2012
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2012 04:24:22 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Virus check - no joke
In-Reply-To: <078401cd5d76$006d0040$0601a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <1445774376.2037593.1341807862864.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

> All that happens tomorrow is
> that, if you are still infected, your internet access stops working.

Yeah.  That's ALL.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://www.mnautox.com

From davewillner at pa.net  Mon Jul  9 09:38:27 2012
From: davewillner at pa.net (davewillner)
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2012 11:38:27 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 radiomobile speaker grill
Message-ID: <42D015E8491D47EFBAAAFB232E9BD7E6@valued9cfc0b6f>

Just purchased a nice old radiomobile along with one of the original style
mounting kits for the radio and speaker that mounts on the tunnel. Does anyone
have a source or know where I can find a nice period 6x9 speaker grill, either
black or chrome, that would look appropriate?  Thanks for the help

Dave Willner
Stroudsburg PA
59 TR3A
70 MGB
70 BSA 441 VS

From agraham at execulink.com  Mon Jul  9 09:44:48 2012
From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham)
Date: Mon, 09 Jul 2012 11:44:48 -0400
Subject: [TR] Gas line filter placement.
Message-ID: <4FFAFC70.9090604@execulink.com>

Hello List:
After rebuilding my carbs (again) and getting them back on the car, I 
was advised to fit an in-line gas filter. I have sourced a generic nylon 
bodied see through type with what appears to be a paper filter inside. 
Was also advised to fit this in-line before the fuel pump to prevent 
damage to the fuel pump valves. I was going to install it before the 
carbs on a convenient stretch of the metal gas line.
Any comments on installing the filter before the fuel pump? Should I 
install another before the pump as well?
Interested in others' experiences.
Thanks for any advice on this one.
Angelo Graham

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Mon Jul  9 11:30:17 2012
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Mon, 09 Jul 2012 10:30:17 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 radiomobile speaker grill
In-Reply-To: <42D015E8491D47EFBAAAFB232E9BD7E6@valued9cfc0b6f>
References: <42D015E8491D47EFBAAAFB232E9BD7E6@valued9cfc0b6f>
Message-ID: <4FFB1529.8060801@gmail.com>

On 7/9/12 8:38 AM, davewillner wrote:
> Just purchased a nice old radiomobile along with one of the original style
> mounting kits for the radio and speaker that mounts on the tunnel. Does anyone
> have a source or know where I can find a nice period 6x9 speaker grill, either
> black or chrome, that would look appropriate?  Thanks for the help
>
Congratulations on the find!

I do not know where you could purchase a grill, but if you need them I 
do have the instructions, both operating and installation on line.  The 
includes the location of the areal hole.

http://www.tr3a.info/radiomobile.htm

TeriAnn

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jul  9 11:39:55 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2012 10:39:55 -0700
Subject: [TR] Gas line filter placement.
In-Reply-To: <4FFAFC70.9090604@execulink.com>
References: <4FFAFC70.9090604@execulink.com>
Message-ID: <0b1901cd5df9$da991dc0$8fcb5940$@rr.com>

> Any comments on installing the filter before the fuel pump?

I'm sure opinions will vary, but I've heard that running a paper element
filter before the pump can aggravate any tendency towards vapor lock as the
resistance of the filter lowers the pressure slightly.  Likely not enough to
worry about, but I've never seen a car with that configuration as original,
so perhaps there is something to it.

Anyway, after years of running with just the factory sediment bowl and
screen, I finally added a paper element filter at the carbs.  No more "sand"
in the bottom of the float bowls.

-- Randall 

From davewillner at pa.net  Mon Jul  9 12:06:55 2012
From: davewillner at pa.net (davewillner)
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2012 14:06:55 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 radiomobile speaker grill
References: <42D015E8491D47EFBAAAFB232E9BD7E6@valued9cfc0b6f>
	<4FFB1529.8060801@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6E02C9D7420A4678A6B38CC5CFAA2465@valued9cfc0b6f>

Yes, I grabbed the pdf awhile ago, thanks...I like this unit because it is 
wired for an iPod or MP3 player. And I think that either an early Midget or 
Sprite grill may fit perfectly, the Sprite's is chrome and Moss carries it, 
a bit expensive but looks pretty nice. I think the Midget's maybe have been 
painted black, or maybe was just a later style I stumbled upon...funny how 
much you can spend on an AM radio today when all is said and done...

Thanks
Dave

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman at gmail.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 09, 2012 1:30 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 radiomobile speaker grill


> On 7/9/12 8:38 AM, davewillner wrote:
>> Just purchased a nice old radiomobile along with one of the original 
>> style
>> mounting kits for the radio and speaker that mounts on the tunnel. Does 
>> anyone
>> have a source or know where I can find a nice period 6x9 speaker grill, 
>> either
>> black or chrome, that would look appropriate?  Thanks for the help
>>
> Congratulations on the find!
>
> I do not know where you could purchase a grill, but if you need them I do 
> have the instructions, both operating and installation on line.  The 
> includes the location of the areal hole.
>
> http://www.tr3a.info/radiomobile.htm
>
> TeriAnn
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/davewillner at pa.net

From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Mon Jul  9 12:17:55 2012
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2012 14:17:55 -0400
Subject: [TR] Fw:  TR3 radiomobile speaker grill
Message-ID: <68CB887FD5DA48ACAE995DE5F092AD61@AlexPC>

> Dave,
>
> I have this mounted in my TR3A.
>
> A perfect grill that I used came out of my 69 Austin Healey Sprite before 
> it went to the graveyard years ago. It is square, chrome and covers the 
> hole nicely and looks great. It was available from Moss a few years 
> ago....might want to check.
>
> Alex
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "davewillner" <davewillner at pa.net>
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, July 09, 2012 11:38 AM
> Subject: [TR] TR3 radiomobile speaker grill
>
>
>> Just purchased a nice old radiomobile along with one of the original 
>> style
>> mounting kits for the radio and speaker that mounts on the tunnel. Does 
>> anyone
>> have a source or know where I can find a nice period 6x9 speaker grill, 
>> either
>> black or chrome, that would look appropriate?  Thanks for the help
>>
>> Dave Willner
>> Stroudsburg PA
>> 59 TR3A
>> 70 MGB
>> 70 BSA 441 VS

From wbeech at flash.net  Mon Jul  9 13:17:55 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2012 14:17:55 -0500
Subject: [TR] Gas line filter placement.
In-Reply-To: <4FFAFC70.9090604@execulink.com>
References: <4FFAFC70.9090604@execulink.com>
Message-ID: <5A4D82F5-4C68-494D-BC2D-1B5C1DC96418@flash.net>

Electric pump, put it before.  OEM pump can go after.  For $10 i got nice
glass inline filter with a replaceable element. It's nice to be able to see
the fuel and the crud.

Sent from mobile Bill

On Jul 9, 2012, at 10:44 AM, Angelo Graham <agraham at execulink.com> wrote:

> Hello List:
> After rebuilding my carbs (again) and getting them back on the car, I was
advised to fit an in-line gas filter. I have sourced a generic nylon bodied
see through type with what appears to be a paper filter inside. Was also
advised to fit this in-line before the fuel pump to prevent damage to the fuel
pump valves. I was going to install it before the carbs on a convenient
stretch of the metal gas line.
> Any comments on installing the filter before the fuel pump? Should I install
another before the pump as well?
> Interested in others' experiences.
> Thanks for any advice on this one.
> Angelo Graham
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk  Mon Jul  9 13:21:49 2012
From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2012 20:21:49 +0100 (BST)
Subject: [TR] TR3 radiomobile speaker grill
In-Reply-To: <42D015E8491D47EFBAAAFB232E9BD7E6@valued9cfc0b6f>
References: <42D015E8491D47EFBAAAFB232E9BD7E6@valued9cfc0b6f>
Message-ID: <1341861709.12675.YahooMailNeo@web29403.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

How long can you wait, Dave? If you know anyone in the Triumph Clubs in your
area coming over next Feb/March to Triumph Spares Day or MG Spares Day the
following weekend, why not send them with your old grille as a pattern?
Stoneleigh where the Spares Days are held is usually awash with old
Radiomobile stuff - speakers, kits, knobs, radios, valves, the lot.  If you
know Bob de Lucia at Delaware Valley Triumphs, they usually have a contingent
headed this way.


Cheers, Jonmac
 

>Just purchased a nice old radiomobile
along with one of the original style
>mounting kits for the radio and speaker
that mounts on the tunnel. Does anyone
>have a source or know where I can find
a nice period 6x9 speaker grill, either
>black or chrome, that would look
appropriate?  Thanks for the help
>
>Dave Willner
>Stroudsburg PA
>59 TR3A
>70
MGB
>70 BSA 441 VS
>
>** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
>Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk
>
>
>
From: davewillner <davewillner at pa.net>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent:
Monday, 9 July 2012, 16:38
Subject: [TR] TR3 radiomobile speaker grill

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Mon Jul  9 13:33:59 2012
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2012 15:33:59 -0400
Subject: [TR] Gas line filter placement.
In-Reply-To: <0b1901cd5df9$da991dc0$8fcb5940$@rr.com>
References: <4FFAFC70.9090604@execulink.com>
	<0b1901cd5df9$da991dc0$8fcb5940$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <CANhzkeOxzZFv=bk+gr_mUT9ayvwnxEvY-g-RrY9Jr74XfFxcwA@mail.gmail.com>

I put my filter in the flex line near the gas tank. My rationale was it's a
big filter and my motorcycle ran fine with a gravity fed fuel system
through an absolutely tiny filter.

I have not had issues other than it filling up with rust.  Nice thing -
it's out of sight. Bad thing - its out of sight so i rarely replace it.....

I can believe a pump would cavitate with a really clogged filter installed
my way.  So far i haven't been inconvenienced by it. ( I now even have a
clean and coated tank... )

From davidt at opentext.com  Mon Jul  9 13:42:40 2012
From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton)
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2012 19:42:40 +0000
Subject: [TR] Gas line filter placement.
In-Reply-To: <4FFAFC70.9090604@execulink.com>
References: <4FFAFC70.9090604@execulink.com>
Message-ID: <BB85810C03ABE146834E31BD2120C86E2BD365FD@otwlxg20.opentext.net>

Angelo

I added a glass one with replaceable filter to the '3, I found that under
driving it was good, but a little spirited driving actually caused issue.
Mind you I did at that time have the OEM pump and the filter was by the tank (
before the pump )

David


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Angelo Graham
Sent: Monday, July 09, 2012 11:45 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Gas line filter placement.

Hello List:
After rebuilding my carbs (again) and getting them back on the car, I was
advised to fit an in-line gas filter. I have sourced a generic nylon bodied
see through type with what appears to be a paper filter inside.
Was also advised to fit this in-line before the fuel pump to prevent damage to
the fuel pump valves. I was going to install it before the carbs on a
convenient stretch of the metal gas line.
Any comments on installing the filter before the fuel pump? Should I install
another before the pump as well?
Interested in others' experiences.
Thanks for any advice on this one.
Angelo Graham

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/davidt at opentext.com

From davewillner at pa.net  Mon Jul  9 13:51:32 2012
From: davewillner at pa.net (davewillner)
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2012 15:51:32 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 radiomobile speaker grill
References: <42D015E8491D47EFBAAAFB232E9BD7E6@valued9cfc0b6f>
	<1341861709.12675.YahooMailNeo@web29403.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <3846A88B42094FE0A9EE8FE81DFDF1B2@valued9cfc0b6f>

Great idea, I know a lot of those guys. I'll look into it....sounds like
RadioMobile heaven?  Thanks

Dave
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: John Macartney
  To: davewillner ; triumphs at autox.team.net
  Sent: Monday, July 09, 2012 3:21 PM
  Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 radiomobile speaker grill


  How long can you wait, Dave? If you know anyone in the Triumph Clubs in your
area coming over next Feb/March to Triumph Spares Day or MG Spares Day the
following weekend, why not send them with your old grille as a pattern?
Stoneleigh where the Spares Days are held is usually awash with old
Radiomobile stuff - speakers, kits, knobs, radios, valves, the lot.  If you
know Bob de Lucia at Delaware Valley Triumphs, they usually have a contingent
headed this way.


  Cheers, Jonmac


  From: davewillner <davewillner at pa.net>
  To: triumphs at autox.team.net
  Sent: Monday, 9 July 2012, 16:38
  Subject: [TR] TR3 radiomobile speaker grill


    Just purchased a nice old radiomobile along with one of the original
style
    mounting kits for the radio and speaker that mounts on the tunnel. Does
anyone
    have a source or know where I can find a nice period 6x9 speaker grill,
either
    black or chrome, that would look appropriate?  Thanks for the help

    Dave Willner
    Stroudsburg PA
    59 TR3A
    70 MGB
    70 BSA 441 VS

    ** triumphs at autox.team.net **

    Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
    Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
    Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
    Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk

From pethier at comcast.net  Mon Jul  9 21:17:32 2012
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2012 03:17:32 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Gas line filter placement.
In-Reply-To: <0b1901cd5df9$da991dc0$8fcb5940$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <988465723.2083535.1341890252732.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

> Any comments on installing the filter before the fuel pump?

Yes.  Do it.  Especially if it is an electronic fuel pump like a Facet,

Also, mount your Facet as low as possible.  Uncle Jack loses prime now and again, so I'm going to check into a lower mounting.  Real soon now...

> I'm sure opinions will vary, but I've heard that running a paper
> element
> filter before the pump can aggravate any tendency towards vapor lock
> as the
> resistance of the filter lowers the pressure slightly.

Stuff and nonsense.

> Anyway, after years of running with just the factory sediment bowl and
> screen, I finally added a paper element filter at the carbs. No more
> "sand"
> in the bottom of the float bowls.

If you find that you are getting junk from the fuel pump, yes.


Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://www.mnautox.com

From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com  Tue Jul 10 06:55:17 2012
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2012 05:55:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Subject:  Gas line filter placement.
Message-ID: <1341924917.29864.YahooMailNeo@web39401.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Angelo Graham <agraham at execulink.com> wrote:

Hello List:
After rebuilding my
carbs ... 
Was also advised to fit this in-line before the fuel pump to
prevent damage to the fuel pump valves. I was going to install it before the
carbs on a convenient stretch of the metal gas line.

Any comments on
installing the filter before the fuel pump? 
Should I install another before
the pump as well?
Interested in others' experiences.
Angelo Graham
-----------    
Hi Angelo & list!
Suggestions:
Install a gas shut of valve
right after the gas tank & another one BEFORE the Manual Fuel Pump (MFP), this
way you can back flush the fuel line at a local gas station if need to when on
the road in case you did get a bad batch of gas.
 
Then install a fuel filter
before the fuel Pump & another before the intake of the carbs.
 
Now, IF the
car stops because of a clogged Fuel Filter, then the chances are that the st
filter before the MFP is clogged & can be checked btyviewing the 2nd filter to
see NO gas inside it.
Turn off the 2nd gas shut off valve & change the 1st
filter & then drive. later check the 1st filter to see how fast it collects
any more sediment. If a lot, then you can back flush the fuel line between the
tank & the 1st filter. 
(Things I've learned to modified through road trip
experiences.)
-Cosmo Kramer

From bkahler1 at gmail.com  Tue Jul 10 10:07:21 2012
From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2012 12:07:21 -0400
Subject: [TR] MP3 / IPOD hidden stereo
In-Reply-To: <01b701cd5d68$cfa98df0$6efca9d0$@net>
References: <CADm3DLHdWZNE-1o2_kSAQ1zUYff2Ybc1WS=DJ_vDnUi8ma_o1A@mail.gmail.com>
	<00eb01cd5c82$f0be4e40$d23aeac0$@net>
	<CADm3DLHwfM09aSvBFv4whDfAkwmVh+7G2ToFnWcBOOxqMLon8Q@mail.gmail.com>
	<01b701cd5d68$cfa98df0$6efca9d0$@net>
Message-ID: <CADm3DLEciZ8L+t=nBhsmPsR=PgFOJu2kwKy70cfGo4z9_+_+WA@mail.gmail.com>

Ken, thanks for the info.  See comments below:

On Sun, Jul 8, 2012 at 8:21 PM, Ken Nachman <k_nachman at comcast.net> wrote:
> Brad - Lots of questions:
> 1) I have the speakers mounted in I think they are called the kidney pads
> under the dash and another pair in the back upholstered panel. When I bought
> the car it had some hideous white speakers some kid had installed. I
> replaced them with black generic 6" speakers from eBay. My interior is black
> so they are pretty much invisable. You should have seen the radio the DPO
> had installed - it had a purple display that you couldn't turn off -- it
> gave me a headache!

TR4s don't have the kidney pads.  I'll likely mount some up in the
foot wells.  Only problem for me is on the passenger side I have the
cruise control module mounted there which sort of limits mounting
possibilities.

You don't like purple?!  Can't say as I blame you :)

> 2) I installed the amp under the heater box above the transmission tunnel
> behind a stock radio that doesn't work. I have an antenna but have never
> used it.

That's where I'm considering installing something.  At one point I
thought about removing the heater all together but as I get older I
think having some warmth might not be so bad :)

I don't want to install an antenna or deal with a radio which is
another reason why an ipad, mp3, etc sounds appealing.

> 3) I have an aftermarket power plug (cigarette lighter) hidden under the
> dash connected to the accessory position on the ignition switch - remember
> my car is a '69 model with a plinth mounted ignition switch. I usually use
> it for the GPS on long(er) trips, but could connect the iPhone charger.

Here is an interesting gadget that would allow me to leave the iphone
in the glove box and eliminate any cords.  I plan on having both of my
power plugs tied to the ignition acc position as well.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10827&cs_id=1082704&p_id=7364&seq=1&format=3#specification

Thanks,

Brad

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Tue Jul 10 15:10:51 2012
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2012 14:10:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] ignition lock barrel
Message-ID: <1341954651.15132.YahooMailNeo@web65514.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

Just received a new ignition switch for tr-3 and the barrel is separate from
the switch. Just wondering how to install the barrel..................shove
in?  shove in and turn?  poke something into little hole in the side of the
switch which might release something to allow the barrel to slide in?  Just
wondering.

gary n.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Jul 10 17:39:13 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2012 16:39:13 -0700
Subject: [TR] ignition lock barrel
In-Reply-To: <1341954651.15132.YahooMailNeo@web65514.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <1341954651.15132.YahooMailNeo@web65514.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <0c5901cd5ef5$36c71e70$a4555b50$@rr.com>

> Just wondering how to install the barrel

Make sure the switch position matches the barrel, and push it in.  The
switch has a little ramp that should depress the locating pin (but you do
have to push kind of hard).

The hole in the side is where you depress the pin to get the barrel back
out.

-- Randall 

From gpr at key-men.com  Tue Jul 10 18:06:45 2012
From: gpr at key-men.com (George Richardson)
Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2012 20:06:45 -0400
Subject: [TR] ignition lock barrel
In-Reply-To: <1341954651.15132.YahooMailNeo@web65514.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <1341954651.15132.YahooMailNeo@web65514.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4FFCC395.5010809@key-men.com>

Slide the barrel into place with the key in it and rotate it back and 
forth to enter fully. the pin should engage the hole. Sometimes the pin 
may not retract on it's own so that it can go all the way in.

For those situations I tape it down and poke the tape out of the way 
with a fine awl once it's in position under the hole.

George Richardson
Key Men - Keys for Classics
www.key-men.com

On 7/10/2012 5:10 PM, Gary Nafziger wrote:
> Just received a new ignition switch for tr-3 and the barrel is separate from
> the switch. Just wondering how to install the barrel..................shove
> in?  shove in and turn?  poke something into little hole in the side of the
> switch which might release something to allow the barrel to slide in?  Just
> wondering.
>
> gary n.
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/gpr at key-men.com

From greg at gelhar.com  Tue Jul 10 18:52:21 2012
From: greg at gelhar.com (Greg  Gelhar)
Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2012 19:52:21 -0500
Subject: [TR] ignition lock barrel
References: <1341954651.15132.YahooMailNeo@web65514.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4FB033A910C7460FA73370005C1FF494@triumph>

Yes, it that easy but you must have the key in the barrel. With the key in 
the barrel, pushing the pin in the side hole will allow you to withdraw the 
tumbler.


Greg G.
Osseo, MN



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gary Nafziger" <nafzigerg at yahoo.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 10, 2012 4:10 PM
Subject: [TR] ignition lock barrel


> Just received a new ignition switch for tr-3 and the barrel is separate 
> from
> the switch. Just wondering how to install the 
> barrel..................shove
> in?  shove in and turn?  poke something into little hole in the side of 
> the
> switch which might release something to allow the barrel to slide in? 
> Just
> wondering.
>
> gary n.
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/greg at gelhar.com

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Jul 10 22:30:02 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2012 21:30:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] Gas line filter placement.
In-Reply-To: <988465723.2083535.1341890252732.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <0b1901cd5df9$da991dc0$8fcb5940$@rr.com>
	<988465723.2083535.1341890252732.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <09f601cd5f1d$d6fd0990$0601a8c0@randall>

> > I'm sure opinions will vary, but I've heard that running a paper
> > element
> > filter before the pump can aggravate any tendency towards vapor lock
> > as the
> > resistance of the filter lowers the pressure slightly.
> 
> Stuff and nonsense.

Vapor lock happens when the gasoline in the line leading to the pump
vaporizes.  (The lock part comes in because the pump cannot pump vapor very
well.)  The pressure at which the gasoline vaporizes depends on the fuel
blend and fuel temperature. 

A little quick poking around shows that US law restricts gasoline to no more
than 9 psia Reid vapor pressure.  This means (approximately) that it will
start to boil at 100F when the pressure drops below 9 psia.  Since 1
atmosphere is roughly 14.7 psia, that gives us a 5.7 psi margin for pressure
drop in the inlet tube.

But, the vapor pressure goes up rapidly with temperature, and even the fuel
in the tank can easily be hotter than 100F.  I'm too lazy to work out the
equation (and I couldn't find a chart for it), but you can see some typical
curves here:
http://goo.gl/yI6ci
Remember the fuel line goes under the car, where it both gets the hot air
blown back by the radiator fan when sitting stopped in traffic, and heat
from the exhaust system.

And I have seen paper element filters that had over a 5 psi drop at a
reasonable fuel flow.  Granted, that was a sign that they needed to be
changed, but I've never been very good at changing them before they needed
to be changed.  And in probably 300,000 miles in an assortment of TR3s all
with rusty gas tanks and no filter in front of the pump, I have never had a
fuel pump quit because of dirt.

I find it interesting that you have trouble with the Facet pump on uncle
jack.  I've also got a Facet pump in my Stag (the one I drove 5000 miles
round trip to VTR 2005), mounted in the stock location, and it never had any
trouble picking up fuel.  My guess is that you have a leak or restriction on
the inlet side.  Facet pumps don't have check valves, but they should be
able to pick up fuel from at least 24 inches.  Here is a video of one
picking up more than 36":
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=upZqF7y97h0

-- Randall  

From davewillner at pa.net  Wed Jul 11 05:31:48 2012
From: davewillner at pa.net (davewillner)
Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2012 07:31:48 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 antenna placement
Message-ID: <F09394A104F94BBDAAEE9FB88846806C@valued9cfc0b6f>

The RadioMobile instructions and manuals I have for the TR3 all seem to show
the installation for the antenna on the right front fender, but I'm thinking
the drawings shown are for a right hand drive car. On a left hand drive car
does the antenna go on the driver side or should it stay on the passenger too?
The original 5"or 6" cut out for the speaker (or something else) on the kick
panel is on the driver's side in my car. Thanks

Dave Willner
Stroudsburg PA
59 TR3A
70 MGB
70 BSA 441 VS

From wbeech at flash.net  Wed Jul 11 08:13:17 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (WBEECH)
Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2012 09:13:17 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 antenna placement
In-Reply-To: <F09394A104F94BBDAAEE9FB88846806C@valued9cfc0b6f>
References: <F09394A104F94BBDAAEE9FB88846806C@valued9cfc0b6f>
Message-ID: <9B5A2E5111864BE98375013701513F83@bboffice>

Both of my cars '58 & '62 are LHD and had the antenna on the front righthand
wing.  The '58 had a speaker cutout on the right side panel, the '62 had
none.   If you like, I can measure the hole placement for you.

Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow"
M.Andretti


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of davewillner
Sent: Wednesday, July 11, 2012 6:32 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3 antenna placement

The RadioMobile instructions and manuals I have for the TR3 all seem to show
the installation for the antenna on the right front fender, but I'm thinking
the drawings shown are for a right hand drive car. On a left hand drive car
does the antenna go on the driver side or should it stay on the passenger
too?
The original 5"or 6" cut out for the speaker (or something else) on the kick
panel is on the driver's side in my car. Thanks

Dave Willner
Stroudsburg PA
59 TR3A
70 MGB
70 BSA 441 VS

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Wed Jul 11 08:26:42 2012
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2012 07:26:42 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Stop Motion Triumph Engine Rebuild
Message-ID: <1342016802.51350.YahooMailNeo@web180909.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

     An interesting stop motion video of a Spitfire engine being rebuilt. The
ending is classic. The title is classic. Curious that he repaints the engine
ofter reassembly.


   
http://blog.makezine.com/2012/07/09/stop-motion-triumph-engine-rebuild/?utm_s
ource=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+makezineonline+%28MAKE%
29

    -Bill Brewer 

     Tehachapi, CA

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Jul 11 11:54:48 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2012 10:54:48 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 antenna placement
In-Reply-To: <F09394A104F94BBDAAEE9FB88846806C@valued9cfc0b6f>
References: <F09394A104F94BBDAAEE9FB88846806C@valued9cfc0b6f>
Message-ID: <0d2c01cd5f8e$43d7e6f0$cb87b4d0$@rr.com>

For the US, radio antennas were generally installed by the dealer anyway,
who may or may not have paid any attention to the location in the
instructions.  That said, all of my TRs with antenna holes have had them in
the RH fender, roughly where the instructions show.

That's curious about your speaker cutout.  I'm pretty sure all of mine have
been on the right.  On TS39781LO you could see original paint on the edges
of the hole, so it was clearly cut before the body was dipped.  But it was
also quite a bit larger than 6", more like 10" IIRC.  I could not find a
modern full-range speaker that would fit the hole, so I made a mounting ring
to accept a 6" speaker.

-- Randall 

From william.f.daehler at delphi.com  Wed Jul 11 13:29:28 2012
From: william.f.daehler at delphi.com (Daehler, William F)
Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2012 19:29:28 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR4 Horns not working.  I need a suggestion
Message-ID: <9E1CC0F0B106764CA9F4156E627D8B0D0CFAE9C0@017-CH1MPN1-021.017d.mgd.msft.net>

My horns have stopped working.   They had working fine when I put in the new
wiring harness five years ago.

I started troubleshooting last night, and found that I do have 12 V going to
the one terminal to each of the horns. Unfortunately I have 12 V going to the
other terminals too!

There must be a short somewhere, but my battery doesn't go dead all the time.
That's fine.

I did a little more experimenting.  I disconnected one of the leads from the
horn (the purple and black wire that is supposed to be grounded).  Then I took
a jumper wire with alligator clips, and ran it from the free tab on the horn
to a  true ground.  The horn worked fine! Toot, toot !  I repeated this on the
other horn, it worked too. Toot, toot.

Then I took off the horn switch on the steering wheel, measured the incoming
voltage, checked that the metal steering column was Zero volts, and checked
the operation of the switch, nothing wrong there.

It seems like the ground path is going hot, but the battery isn't going flat.
Puzzling.

Any suggestions?



Will Daehler
63 TR4  Powder Blue
*****************************************************************************
*********** Note: If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient,
or an employee or agent responsible for delivering this message to the
intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination,
distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you
have received this communication in error, please notify us immediately by
replying to the message and deleting it from your computer. Thank you.
*****************************************************************************
***********

From deruiterville at hotmail.com  Wed Jul 11 15:18:43 2012
From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter)
Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2012 16:18:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 Horns not working.  I need a suggestion
In-Reply-To: <9E1CC0F0B106764CA9F4156E627D8B0D0CFAE9C0@017-CH1MPN1-021.017d.mgd.msft.net>
References: <9E1CC0F0B106764CA9F4156E627D8B0D0CFAE9C0@017-CH1MPN1-021.017d.mgd.msft.net>
Message-ID: <BAY150-W34861A503EB48026B7EC0DB9D10@phx.gbl>

Hi Will-

Take a look at a TR4 wiring diagram if you have one handy - the horns do
ground through the horn button - eventually via the steering column/steering
rack.  If you want to keep experimenting, take your alligator clips and ground
the metal steering column inside the engine bay, just before the uppermost
rubber coupling.  With it grounded, try your horn button - if it toots, you
are loosing ground through the column as it goes to the rack - work your way
down if needed to find the fault.  If it doesn't work, you are losing ground
possibly at the horn ring, you could find where the purple/black wire goes
into the steering column and check there first, if good its something going on
with the horn ring/horn pencil/horn button.

Randy
ps.  Nice to meet you at the Mitty! (red TR4..)

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Jul 11 15:55:55 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2012 14:55:55 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 Horns not working.  I need a suggestion
In-Reply-To: <9E1CC0F0B106764CA9F4156E627D8B0D0CFAE9C0@017-CH1MPN1-021.017d.mgd.msft.net>
References: <9E1CC0F0B106764CA9F4156E627D8B0D0CFAE9C0@017-CH1MPN1-021.017d.mgd.msft.net>
Message-ID: <000e01cd5faf$f2fdfea0$d8f9fbe0$@rr.com>

> There must be a short somewhere,

What you have is more of a "long" than a short.  A broken wire or bad
contact, somewhere.

My next step would be to check at the horn button again, with a jumper
across the contacts (ie terminal to steering column/shaft).  Only the horn
uses the shaft as a ground, so without that connection you cannot tell if
the shaft is grounded or not.

If the shaft comes up to 12v, it will likely be either the ground connection
at the steering rack, or the jumper across the rubber coupling in the
column.

-- Randall 

From greg at gelhar.com  Wed Jul 11 18:18:58 2012
From: greg at gelhar.com (Greg  Gelhar)
Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2012 19:18:58 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 Horns not working.  I need a suggestion
References: <9E1CC0F0B106764CA9F4156E627D8B0D0CFAE9C0@017-CH1MPN1-021.017d.mgd.msft.net>
Message-ID: <781AA1B7D9F24AF894875A68CCC99E8E@triumph>

It is not that both sides of your horn are going plus 12 volts, you are just 
reading through the horns windings. You know the problem. Your not getting a 
switched ground from the horn button. The horn ground depends on a jumper 
around the rubber flex couplings on the steering shaft. Check to make sure 
the little wire bridging those couplings are intact.


Greg G.
Osseo, MN


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Daehler, William F" <william.f.daehler at delphi.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 11, 2012 2:29 PM
Subject: [TR] TR4 Horns not working. I need a suggestion


> My horns have stopped working.   They had working fine when I put in the 
> new
> wiring harness five years ago.
>
> I started troubleshooting last night, and found that I do have 12 V going 
> to
> the one terminal to each of the horns. Unfortunately I have 12 V going to 
> the
> other terminals too!
>
> There must be a short somewhere, but my battery doesn't go dead all the 
> time.
> That's fine.
>
> I did a little more experimenting.  I disconnected one of the leads from 
> the
> horn (the purple and black wire that is supposed to be grounded).  Then I 
> took
> a jumper wire with alligator clips, and ran it from the free tab on the 
> horn
> to a  true ground.  The horn worked fine! Toot, toot !  I repeated this on 
> the
> other horn, it worked too. Toot, toot.
>
> Then I took off the horn switch on the steering wheel, measured the 
> incoming
> voltage, checked that the metal steering column was Zero volts, and 
> checked
> the operation of the switch, nothing wrong there.
>
> It seems like the ground path is going hot, but the battery isn't going 
> flat.
> Puzzling.
>
> Any suggestions?

From keithstewart at execulink.com  Thu Jul 12 15:41:35 2012
From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart)
Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2012 17:41:35 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 Horns not working.  I need a suggestion
In-Reply-To: <mailman.19.1342116004.20983.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.19.1342116004.20983.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <CA6CA9F5-20B9-4F27-9DEB-82B9C9A6A212@execulink.com>

On Wed, 11 Jul 2012, at 14:55:55, Randall wrote:

>
> If the shaft comes up to 12v, it will likely be either the ground
connection
> at the steering rack, or the jumper across the rubber coupling in the
> column.

and on the TR4, there are two of those couplings and therefore two of those
ground straps passing around/through those rubber couplings.


Keith R. Stewart
London, Ontario
E-Mail: keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom

From mhooper at indiefilmnet.com  Thu Jul 12 15:39:00 2012
From: mhooper at indiefilmnet.com (Mark Hooper)
Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2012 17:39:00 -0400
Subject: [TR] Stop Motion Triumph Engine Rebuild
In-Reply-To: <1342016802.51350.YahooMailNeo@web180909.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <d193d20c.1cd6076.9b77ca61.2894@indiefilmnet.com>

Hi Bill:

Perhaps he is going for industrial authenticity.

In the eighties, I worked at a company making custom tracked vehicles. The
engines were purchased in from several manufacturers. Cummins, Renault etc.
The units had clearly been spray-painted after nearly final assembly. Often,
the only parts not on the engines at paint time were the distributor and oil
filler caps. Even the wiring harness would be covered with sand or blue
coloured paint. I guess it was some sort of cost control or brand look.

Mark
1972 TR6


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of William Brewer
Sent: July-11-12 10:27 AM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] Stop Motion Triumph Engine Rebuild

     An interesting stop motion video of a Spitfire engine being rebuilt. The
ending is classic. The title is classic. Curious that he repaints the engine
ofter reassembly.



http://blog.makezine.com/2012/07/09/stop-motion-triumph-engine-rebuild/?utm_s
ource=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+makezineonline+%28MAKE%
29

    -Bill Brewer

     Tehachapi, CA

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Thu Jul 12 16:05:49 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2012 18:05:49 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] "CALIFORNIA AIR" A DOCUMENTARY ON KAS KASTNER by John Clancy
Message-ID: <8CF2E91A0EBC02B-D4C-38226@webmail-m061.sysops.aol.com>

TRIUMPH LIST:


This is a brand new DVD release....you may have heard rumors.  Starting to
ship the first lot, next week.

If you are a fan of Kas Kastner
If you enjoy automotive history.
If you are a Triumph enthusiast.
If you attended THE MITTY featuring the Kastner Cup this year

You likely will want this  2 HOUR DVD Documentary on Kas Kastner TRIUMPH
COMPETITION DEPARTMENT years with bonus features of this year's MITTY at ROAD
ATLANTA.

I knew that when KAS brought John Clancy to meet with Alexander Racing in the
paddock, there was something special going on. The result was an agreement to
send discs from the UK in bulk and have A.R.E. package and prepare to ship.
Keeps the costs down......

Find out what "CALIFORNIA AIR" means...it's a great story. Just one of many in
Kas' extensive interview. Watch 40+ Triumphs take to the track at Road
Atlanta. Classic Motor Sports sponsored THE MITTY and hosted the 10th Running
of the Kastner Cup.  Other historic racing footage is included, too. What a
ride!

Order Information:   contact    n197tr4 at cs.com

PayPal or Personal Checks accepted.

PayPal account is N197TR4 at CS.COM

$28 INCLUDES SHIPPING ANYWHERE IN NORTH AMERICA

Regards,


Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com

From ptegler at verizon.net  Thu Jul 12 21:19:14 2012
From: ptegler at verizon.net (ptegler)
Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2012 23:19:14 -0400
Subject: [TR] "CALIFORNIA AIR" A DOCUMENTARY ON KAS KASTNER by John
 Clancy
References: <8CF2E91A0EBC02B-D4C-38226@webmail-m061.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <E86477CB2CE24AB3BFBF230EE888E339@dragonlairii>

yep....a couple of us talked to John (and his wife? assistant?) for about an 
hour out behind the main tent up on the hill at the Mitty with the Spitfires 
and GT6 NASS crew.
We spent quite a bit of time in the shade of my canopy, talking to Mike Cook 
and others, as well as googling over FIS6's engine bay.
We'd been walking the grounds and were radioed to come back up the hill to 
talk to John
Very nice gentleman, lots of stories to exchange.

Paul Tegler
ptegler at verizon.net
www.teglerizer.com
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joe Alexander" <n197tr4 at cs.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 12, 2012 6:05 PM
Subject: [TR] "CALIFORNIA AIR" A DOCUMENTARY ON KAS KASTNER by John Clancy


> TRIUMPH LIST:
>
>
> This is a brand new DVD release....you may have heard rumors.  Starting to
> ship the first lot, next week.
>
> If you are a fan of Kas Kastner
> If you enjoy automotive history.
> If you are a Triumph enthusiast.
> If you attended THE MITTY featuring the Kastner Cup this year
>
> You likely will want this  2 HOUR DVD Documentary on Kas Kastner TRIUMPH
> COMPETITION DEPARTMENT years with bonus features of this year's MITTY at 
> ROAD
> ATLANTA.
>
> I knew that when KAS brought John Clancy to meet with Alexander Racing in 
> the
> paddock, there was something special going on. The result was an agreement 
> to
> send discs from the UK in bulk and have A.R.E. package and prepare to 
> ship.
> Keeps the costs down......
>
> Find out what "CALIFORNIA AIR" means...it's a great story. Just one of 
> many in
> Kas' extensive interview. Watch 40+ Triumphs take to the track at Road
> Atlanta. Classic Motor Sports sponsored THE MITTY and hosted the 10th 
> Running
> of the Kastner Cup.  Other historic racing footage is included, too. What 
> a
> ride!
>
> Order Information:   contact    n197tr4 at cs.com
>
> PayPal or Personal Checks accepted.
>
> PayPal account is N197TR4 at CS.COM
>
> $28 INCLUDES SHIPPING ANYWHERE IN NORTH AMERICA
>
> Regards,
>
>
> Joe Alexander
> A. R. E.
> 645 1st Street
> Jesup, Iowa 50648
> 319.464.4711  (cell)
> n197tr4 at cs.com
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net 

From aribertn at gmail.com  Fri Jul 13 05:14:31 2012
From: aribertn at gmail.com (aribert neumann)
Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2012 07:14:31 -0400
Subject: [TR] separating trans & OD
Message-ID: <CAGkVM2933CM2gG4L_g+veK8ch4WJDmz1vuKj7egyC5E+X_RO3g@mail.gmail.com>

Greetings all"

I am about to separate the trans and OD units in order to be able to
dismantle the trans in order to refresh.  Are there any concerns / gotchas
that I need to be concerned about?   I know that I need to be carefull on
reassembly of the two modules so that I don't damage the OD plunger.

From deruiterville at hotmail.com  Fri Jul 13 06:29:50 2012
From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter)
Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2012 07:29:50 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 Horns not working.  I need a suggestion
In-Reply-To: <CA6CA9F5-20B9-4F27-9DEB-82B9C9A6A212@execulink.com>
References: <mailman.19.1342116004.20983.triumphs@autox.team.net>,
	<CA6CA9F5-20B9-4F27-9DEB-82B9C9A6A212@execulink.com>
Message-ID: <BAY150-W61F81EE20692C89CC23A18B9D70@phx.gbl>

> > If the shaft comes up to 12v, it will likely be either the ground
> connection
> > at the steering rack, or the jumper across the rubber coupling in the
> > column.
>
> and on the TR4, there are two of those couplings and therefore two of those
> ground straps passing around/through those rubber couplings.
>
>

Uncommon I suspect, but you can actually lose ground within the column itself,
right at the spline connection probably from corrosion - that is the problem
on my car, I got around it temporarily by wrapping a ground wire around the
column between the two couplings.  Maybe not temporary as I've been driving
that way for about 5 years now!

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Jul 13 09:32:27 2012
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2012 11:32:27 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] separating trans & OD
Message-ID: <36928.474abdb8.3d31998b@cs.com>

Take notes/pictures of the sprag (one-way) clutch before removing it so you 
will know which way round to reinstall it.  You can put it in backwards but 
it don't work so good that way.

Oh, and on reassembly, this may sound counter intuitive but the best way I 
have found is to secure the O/D unit with the output flange down and lower 
the transmission onto the O/D.  Trying to do it the other way causes the 
clutch assembly to drop and you loose alignment of the splines on the sun gear 
and the sprag clutch.

Dave

In a message dated 7/13/2012 8:14:43 AM Central Daylight Time, 
aribertn at gmail.com writes: 
> I am about to separate the trans and OD units in order to be able to
> dismantle the trans in order to refresh.  Are there any concerns / gotchas
> that I need to be concerned about?   I know that I need to be carefull on
> reassembly of the two modules so that I don't damage the OD plunger.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Jul 13 11:03:57 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2012 10:03:57 -0700
Subject: [TR] separating trans & OD
In-Reply-To: <CAGkVM2933CM2gG4L_g+veK8ch4WJDmz1vuKj7egyC5E+X_RO3g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAGkVM2933CM2gG4L_g+veK8ch4WJDmz1vuKj7egyC5E+X_RO3g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <020901cd6119$7e912310$7bb36930$@rr.com>

> I am about to separate the trans and OD units in order to be able to
> dismantle the trans in order to refresh.  Are there any concerns /
> gotchas
> that I need to be concerned about?  

Make sure it was not under power the last time it was shifted out of OD.  If
you aren't sure, it would probably be wise to spin it up with a drill motor
or whatever, enough to shift in and out of OD.  Then of course repeat the
process after you stop turning it, to be sure all the pressure is bled off.
Otherwise, the direct drive clutch may be bound up with the splines hard
enough to make it difficult or impossible to disassemble.

> I know that I need to be carefull on reassembly

There are some really good articles on the Buckeye Triumphs site
http://goo.gl/4BtfD
and also on the VTR site
http://goo.gl/yIdTa

I would suggest downloading, reading and understanding them before you
start.

-- Randall 

From wbeech at flash.net  Sat Jul 14 13:44:22 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2012 14:44:22 -0500
Subject: [TR] FW: TR Frame rust
Message-ID: <BE564E3563844A2D9501FA5DD6572EE2@bboffice>

Just finished stripping everything from the TR3B frame.  Lots of salt rust,
NE car, and I am wondering how do you check it out before going back
together?  I will have it sandblasted and powder coated but it is the
internal integrity that concerns me. I took a ball peen hammer and gave it a
good wack every six inches, nothing broke or sounded offnote.  One outrigger
is disintegrated, so I know that has to go. 

Suggestions?

Thanks,
Bill 

Sent from mobile Bill=

From peterara at msn.com  Sat Jul 14 17:44:04 2012
From: peterara at msn.com (Peter Arakelian)
Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2012 16:44:04 -0700
Subject: [TR] Triumphest 2012
Message-ID: <COL122-DS83C84FEA31CCEEBFB97DFC1D60@phx.gbl>

Southern CA listers - I know a lot of you lurk.
I have started getting responses to my quest for a two-day run to Flagstaff.
Since I start in Buellton, the general track has been, now get out your maps,
down the 101, North 23 to the 118 to 210 to 15 north to that big stop just
before Barstow - you know  where we always stop for gas, etc.  Then across to
Laughlin overnight there-casino rooms relatively inexpensive.  Then in the AM
across to Bullhead City, north to Kingman and I40.  But then take one of the
last best stretches of route 66 and loop around to Flagstaff.
Advantages are you won't be dog tired when you get to Flagstaff.  You can run
with a group.  You have time to run Route 66 - I understand there are some
stops for goodies.
I plan I going to the Central Coast Club show at Oxnard harbor on July 22,
maybe we can talk more there, or contact me off list.

Peter

From mark at bradakis.com  Sat Jul 14 18:11:31 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sat, 14 Jul 2012 18:11:31 -0600
Subject: [TR] Network issues
Message-ID: <50020AB3.6060904@bradakis.com>

The Team.Net server is running *extremely* slow at the moment, it could 
very well be
an issue with the network hardware on my end.  I'm looking into it, 
please be patient
and don't worry too much if your message takes a *LONG* time to get posted.

mjb the perplexed.

From cliff_hansen at earthlink.net  Fri Jul 13 20:43:27 2012
From: cliff_hansen at earthlink.net (Cliff Hansen)
Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2012 20:43:27 -0600
Subject: [TR] Most dangerous car ever - no TR content
Message-ID: <230B87AAEC5341E39D99CCB1806F080C@Shemp>

I got a laugh out of this:

http://autos.aol.com/gallery/unsafe-ford-pinto-minnesota/

Clearly the bjournalistb didnbt recognize that NOT having the gas tank
near the rear bumper of a Pinto was actually a safety improvement.

Enjoy.

Cliff

From terryrs at comcast.net  Sat Jul 14 20:09:01 2012
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2012 02:09:01 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] fuel pump pressure question
In-Reply-To: <020901cd6119$7e912310$7bb36930$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <1743978124.1199237.1342318141223.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Question: carburetors call for specific fuel psi's.  Does it take exceeding it by a lot (say, 20%) to overwhelm the floats and cause flooding?  ...Or a little, say 5%?

Probably it's relative to the size of the carb.  I dunno.  Just trying to get a general idea.

Terry

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Sat Jul 14 22:46:03 2012
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2012 04:46:03 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Most dangerous car ever - no TR content
In-Reply-To: <230B87AAEC5341E39D99CCB1806F080C@Shemp>
Message-ID: <1166829607.1438380.1342327563469.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Wouldn't get a second look if it was being driven during the Winter months in Cleveland, OH 



Ed 



----- Original Message -----


From: "Cliff Hansen" <cliff_hansen at earthlink.net> 
To: "list Triumph" <triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Friday, July 13, 2012 10:43:27 PM 
Subject: [TR] Most dangerous car ever - no TR content 

I got a laugh out of this: 

http://autos.aol.com/gallery/unsafe-ford-pinto-minnesota/ 

Clearly the bjournalistb didnbt recognize that NOT having the gas tank 
near the rear bumper of a Pinto was actually a safety improvement. 

Enjoy. 

Cliff 

** triumphs at autox.team.net ** 

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fogbro1 at comcast.net 

From wbeech at flash.net  Sun Jul 15 07:31:44 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2012 08:31:44 -0500
Subject: [TR] fuel pump pressure question
In-Reply-To: <1743978124.1199237.1342318141223.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <020901cd6119$7e912310$7bb36930$@rr.com>
	<1743978124.1199237.1342318141223.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <DD24BC9CBB264059A8453378DB8C5D88@bboffice>

Probably it is more relative to the efficiency of your float shutoff valve.
SUs and most carburetors want between 2.5-3.5psi of pressure.  Could you get
away with 20% more at 4.2psi?  Maybe, but each step up just increases the
risk of failure/flooding.  Kind of like stepping out on a skinny limb to
find out when it will break.

If you have the measuring and regulating ability, give a try and tell us all
where the float valve starts to leak.

Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"If youthink you have everything under control... You're driving too slow"
M.Andretti


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of terryrs at comcast.net
Sent: Saturday, July 14, 2012 9:09 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] fuel pump pressure question

Question: carburetors call for specific fuel psi's.  Does it take exceeding
it by a lot (say, 20%) to overwhelm the floats and cause flooding?  ...Or a
little, say 5%?

Probably it's relative to the size of the carb.  I dunno.  Just trying to
get a general idea.

Terry

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From dctr6 at optonline.net  Sun Jul 15 08:54:14 2012
From: dctr6 at optonline.net (Dennis Culligan)
Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2012 10:54:14 -0400
Subject: [TR] LBCs and Jerry Seinfeld's new show
Message-ID: <002801cd6299$b3b786c0$1b269440$@net>

    Jerry Seinfeld has created a new "show about nothing".  It's called
Comedians in Cars Getting Coffee and the first episode will be shown
Thursday, July 19th at 9:00PM EDT online at Crackle.com (Seinfeld tried to
sell the show to networks but found no takers).  Why am I discussing this
here?  Well, at least two of the cars are British - one is a pretty silver
Austin Healey that Jerry supposedly borrowed from a dealer in the Hamptons
and the other is a Tahiti Blue TR6 that Jerry rented - from me.  The segment
featuring my car was filmed in Manhattan and Brooklyn back in March.  The
concept is that Jerry hand-picked a number of cars that he wanted to drive
and his production staff rounded them up.  Each was fitted with multiple
cameras (both in and outside the car) and Jerry then selected one of his
comedian friends (Colin Quinn in the episode featuring my car) to go for a
ride and get coffee.  Yes, it's a rip off of a number of other shows (e.g.
Carpool, The Car Show, etc.) but there appear to be very few original ideas
on TV (or the Internet) any more.   

   There are two teaser promos out on the Internet, one of them showing some
of the cars (www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Pe7J-8qIPY) and the other dealing more
with the comedians and the actual ingestion of liquids
(www.youtube.com/watch?v=526iGwVdp6o).  I don't see an Emmy in my future,
but it might be worth watching the show, even if just for the cars.

Dennis Culligan, Highland NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U 

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sun Jul 15 13:36:30 2012
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2012 15:36:30 -0400
Subject: [TR] LBCs and Jerry Seinfeld's new show
In-Reply-To: <002801cd6299$b3b786c0$1b269440$@net>
References: <002801cd6299$b3b786c0$1b269440$@net>
Message-ID: <50BE97736F4A48DF9334E41827C14082@BobPC>

Very cool.......... having your car in the show..........the show I'm not 
too sure about. I did notice that the in car shots were done using GoPro 
video cameras. I just shared this with the guys in the 6-Pack Forum.


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
1975 TR6 with:
Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed
Nissan Diff & CVJs

-----Original Message----- 
From: Dennis Culligan
Sent: Sunday, July 15, 2012 10:54 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net ; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] LBCs and Jerry Seinfeld's new show

    Jerry Seinfeld has created a new "show about nothing".  It's called
Comedians in Cars Getting Coffee and the first episode will be shown
Thursday, July 19th at 9:00PM EDT online at Crackle.com (Seinfeld tried to
sell the show to networks but found no takers).  Why am I discussing this
here?  Well, at least two of the cars are British - one is a pretty silver
Austin Healey that Jerry supposedly borrowed from a dealer in the Hamptons
and the other is a Tahiti Blue TR6 that Jerry rented - from me.  The segment
featuring my car was filmed in Manhattan and Brooklyn back in March.  The
concept is that Jerry hand-picked a number of cars that he wanted to drive
and his production staff rounded them up.  Each was fitted with multiple
cameras (both in and outside the car) and Jerry then selected one of his
comedian friends (Colin Quinn in the episode featuring my car) to go for a
ride and get coffee.  Yes, it's a rip off of a number of other shows (e.g.
Carpool, The Car Show, etc.) but there appear to be very few original ideas
on TV (or the Internet) any more.

   There are two teaser promos out on the Internet, one of them showing some
of the cars (www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Pe7J-8qIPY) and the other dealing more
with the comedians and the actual ingestion of liquids
(www.youtube.com/watch?v=526iGwVdp6o).  I don't see an Emmy in my future,
but it might be worth watching the show, even if just for the cars.

Dennis Culligan, Highland NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U

From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com  Sun Jul 15 21:30:28 2012
From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad)
Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2012 20:30:28 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] FW: TR Frame rust
In-Reply-To: <BE564E3563844A2D9501FA5DD6572EE2@bboffice>
References: <BE564E3563844A2D9501FA5DD6572EE2@bboffice>
Message-ID: <1342409428.52133.YahooMailNeo@web120503.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Well....youl could pay an NDT company to do some ultrasonic wall thickness
testing.
 
If it looks bad on the outside....its gonna look worse on the
inside.  You may want to call RATCO and get a new one.
 
Chad in Tulsa

From:
Wbeech <wbeech at flash.net>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Saturday, July
14, 2012 2:44 PM
Subject: [TR] FW: TR Frame rust

Just finished stripping
everything from the TR3B frame.  Lots of salt rust,
NE car, and I am wondering
how do you check it out before going back
together?  I will have it
sandblasted and powder coated but it is the
internal integrity that concerns
me. I took a ball peen hammer and gave it a
good wack every six inches,
nothing broke or sounded offnote.  One outrigger
is disintegrated, so I know
that has to go. 

Suggestions?

Thanks,
Bill 

Sent from mobile Bill=

**
triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From malcolm at ipatch.ca  Mon Jul 16 00:34:17 2012
From: malcolm at ipatch.ca (Malcolm)
Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2012 23:34:17 -0700
Subject: [TR] Ignition question (and hello!)
Message-ID: <CAGjWObUux1meZzEcdnPQN=i+L-11=heQX5V4V3XbbEPytQKAsw@mail.gmail.com>

Hello list,

It's been a very long time since I have sent a message to the team.net list
Triumph.  Some of you may remember me!

Anyway, I have now got enough time on my hands to tinker again with my 1962
TR4.  Also, this year it is fifty years old, so I feel somewhat obligated
to pay attention to it.  I've got a bunch of new parts on it now, including
a stainless exhaust and new tacho/speedo cables, and have been trying to
get it to run properly.

I have fairly bad backfiring (through the carbs) under load when
accelerating.  I have balanced the carb inlets, the mixture seems OK, and
I've done the static timing.  I have new air filters (K&N) on order.  I
suspect that this is an ignition problem, though, and the Haynes manual is
dismal when it comes to troubleshooting the distributor.  Nearly every test
involves "compare your stuff with new parts, and replace them if they are
worn out".

My big question is: how much should I be able to rotate the distributor
rotor?  A little?  A lot?  15 degrees?  30?  Should it snap back to a
position at rest or just flop around?  I am trying to tell if the
centrifugal advance springs need replacement.

Will the K&N filters require me to fiddle with the timing?  They are
56-9327: http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?prod=56-9327

Has anyone got glowing recommendations, or horror stories, for electronic
ignition?  I've been scouring the Web and so far have not found a clear
winner.  I could rebuild the points (a la Distributor Doctor, or Advanced
Distributors) - or get Petronix, Hot-Spark, or some other drop-in
electronic replacement.

I am not building a concours car.  I want it to be reliable, running on
pump gas, with minimal roadside surprises.

Thanks!
-Malcolm

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Mon Jul 16 06:02:16 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2012 08:02:16 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] CALIFORNIA AIR       youtube link     a TRAILER
In-Reply-To: <BLU151-W623C6312C6DAEE43E7939B96D40@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU151-W41AC74DBCBD12FB9F1885A96D20@phx.gbl>,
	<8CF2E6A54C4F4E6-D18-80227@webmail-m058.sysops.aol.com>,
	<BLU151-W14D789439BAE4216C51CDA96D00@phx.gbl>,
	<8CF2E6F6EA045E6-D18-80A9A@webmail-m058.sysops.aol.com>,
	<BLU151-W8DD6FCA01556F0CB0DCE296D00@phx.gbl>,
	<8CF2E748E3293C0-D18-814D8@webmail-m058.sysops.aol.com>,
	<BLU151-W338C1F7F50E841AB73A68196D00@phx.gbl>,
	<8CF2E82978E02B0-8D0-817D6@webmail-m073.sysops.aol.com>
	<BLU151-W58758BFE3D549AF5DD85C196D00@phx.gbl>,
	<8CF310864BE0B4C-1EF4-A52A9@webmail-m035.sysops.aol.com>
	<BLU151-W623C6312C6DAEE43E7939B96D40@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <8CF3161FA748DB3-1010-A7D8E@webmail-d008.sysops.aol.com>

'California Air' is the Kas Kastner story of his competition years with the
Triumph Factory. This is an exceptional documentary.

It has, included, great footage of our 10th Running of The Kastner Cup at Road
Atlanta. Additionally, if you joined us in your street TR for the weekend,
there's also footage of the Triumph Corral and Triumph Track Tour.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=twWHfzI8oiw

the YouTube preview public now so it should come up on a search.


John Clancy sent the first lot of discs to us. A.R.E. is doing the final
packaging in a premium DVD case along with the artwork, and then sending in
bubble wrap envelope.

Order Info    $28.00 total in North America

PayPal:     n197tr4 at cs.com

Check:  A.R.E.     645 1ST STREET     JESUP, IOWA   50648

Thanks,

Joe Alexander

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Mon Jul 16 06:20:43 2012
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2012 08:20:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] Ignition question (and hello!)
In-Reply-To: <CAGjWObUux1meZzEcdnPQN=i+L-11=heQX5V4V3XbbEPytQKAsw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAGjWObUux1meZzEcdnPQN=i+L-11=heQX5V4V3XbbEPytQKAsw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <5004071B.6060608@adelphia.net>

Malcolm,

When I see/hear backfiring, I always think timing. If you static time 
your distro, then set 4 degrees BTDC you should be ok for most driving.

For me on my 3 and 4, I do the same thing but then use the micro 
adjustment to fine tune so I don't get any pre ignition and the engine 
pulls good in all gears.

If you think your distributor is worn out, then get it rebuilt. I had 
mine done on my 6 by Jeff Alexander. He does a good job and the price is 
good.

No experience here with electronic ignition. I go with  stock on my 3,4 
and 6 and are very satisfied.

I have rarely had problems with spark but the few I have had are bad 
points, broken connection on the low tension lead inside the distributor 
and a bad distributor cap.

Not sure on the rotation degrees on the distributor rotor, but I am 
guessing at least 5 degrees each way, (maybe a bit more) and it should 
snap back.

Doubt the filters are the problem. But do check the oil level in the 
dashpots.

Bob

  On 07/16/2012 02:34 AM, Malcolm wrote:
> Hello list,
>
> It's been a very long time since I have sent a message to the team.net list
> Triumph.  Some of you may remember me!
>
> Anyway, I have now got enough time on my hands to tinker again with my 1962
> TR4.  Also, this year it is fifty years old, so I feel somewhat obligated
> to pay attention to it.  I've got a bunch of new parts on it now, including
> a stainless exhaust and new tacho/speedo cables, and have been trying to
> get it to run properly.
>
> I have fairly bad backfiring (through the carbs) under load when
> accelerating.  I have balanced the carb inlets, the mixture seems OK, and
> I've done the static timing.  I have new air filters (K&N) on order.  I
> suspect that this is an ignition problem, though, and the Haynes manual is
> dismal when it comes to troubleshooting the distributor.  Nearly every test
> involves "compare your stuff with new parts, and replace them if they are
> worn out".
>
> My big question is: how much should I be able to rotate the distributor
> rotor?  A little?  A lot?  15 degrees?  30?  Should it snap back to a
> position at rest or just flop around?  I am trying to tell if the
> centrifugal advance springs need replacement.
>
> Will the K&N filters require me to fiddle with the timing?  They are
> 56-9327: http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?prod=56-9327
>
> Has anyone got glowing recommendations, or horror stories, for electronic
> ignition?  I've been scouring the Web and so far have not found a clear
> winner.  I could rebuild the points (a la Distributor Doctor, or Advanced
> Distributors) - or get Petronix, Hot-Spark, or some other drop-in
> electronic replacement.
>
> I am not building a concours car.  I want it to be reliable, running on
> pump gas, with minimal roadside surprises.
>
> Thanks!
> -Malcolm
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr at adelphia.net

From wbeech at flash.net  Mon Jul 16 07:58:33 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2012 08:58:33 -0500
Subject: [TR] Ignition question (and hello!)
In-Reply-To: <CAGjWObUux1meZzEcdnPQN=i+L-11=heQX5V4V3XbbEPytQKAsw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAGjWObUux1meZzEcdnPQN=i+L-11=heQX5V4V3XbbEPytQKAsw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <19597A5AA7624E4E9FBC1DD7037221EF@bboffice>

Malcolm,
You are right to think electrical as long as your fuel problem is not
starvation.  You should be able to check your timing with a light and see if
the low and high RPM setting are within spec.

Breaking down under a load, as you describe, seems more to point to one of
the following: Points too closely set, bad plug(s), bad plug wires, weak
coil or bad condenser.  I would check through these things in this order and
I bet you fix it so you can be on the road again by the weekend.

Good luck,
Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow"
M.Andretti


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Malcolm
Sent: Monday, July 16, 2012 1:34 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Ignition question (and hello!)

Hello list,

It's been a very long time since I have sent a message to the team.net list
Triumph.  Some of you may remember me!

Anyway, I have now got enough time on my hands to tinker again with my 1962
TR4.  Also, this year it is fifty years old, so I feel somewhat obligated to
pay attention to it.  I've got a bunch of new parts on it now, including a
stainless exhaust and new tacho/speedo cables, and have been trying to get
it to run properly.

I have fairly bad backfiring (through the carbs) under load when
accelerating.  I have balanced the carb inlets, the mixture seems OK, and
I've done the static timing.  I have new air filters (K&N) on order.  I
suspect that this is an ignition problem, though, and the Haynes manual is
dismal when it comes to troubleshooting the distributor.  Nearly every test
involves "compare your stuff with new parts, and replace them if they are
worn out".

My big question is: how much should I be able to rotate the distributor
rotor?  A little?  A lot?  15 degrees?  30?  Should it snap back to a
position at rest or just flop around?  I am trying to tell if the
centrifugal advance springs need replacement.

Will the K&N filters require me to fiddle with the timing?  They are
56-9327: http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?prod=56-9327

Has anyone got glowing recommendations, or horror stories, for electronic
ignition?  I've been scouring the Web and so far have not found a clear
winner.  I could rebuild the points (a la Distributor Doctor, or Advanced
Distributors) - or get Petronix, Hot-Spark, or some other drop-in electronic
replacement.

I am not building a concours car.  I want it to be reliable, running on pump
gas, with minimal roadside surprises.

Thanks!
-Malcolm

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Mon Jul 16 08:18:04 2012
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2012 07:18:04 -0700
Subject: [TR] Ignition question (and hello!)
In-Reply-To: <CAGjWObUux1meZzEcdnPQN=i+L-11=heQX5V4V3XbbEPytQKAsw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAGjWObUux1meZzEcdnPQN=i+L-11=heQX5V4V3XbbEPytQKAsw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bF=fxig1NEQAx7Mh+=7RDtzPnCor7sHisR3ndi6f3uWTw@mail.gmail.com>

On Sun, Jul 15, 2012 at 11:34 PM, Malcolm <malcolm at ipatch.ca> wrote:

> My big question is: how much should I be able to rotate the distributor
> rotor?  A little?  A lot?  15 degrees?  30?  Should it snap back to a
> position at rest or just flop around?
>


As I recall the rotor should move about 100 on a correct TR4 distributor.
When you move it I think you want it to snap back sharpish... if it is
reluctant or 'flopping around' then it needs attention.

You might look at the number on the distributor body as through the years
it may have been swapped with something slightly different from original --
I'm thinking it would have been 40735A or 40795A.

In any case, it is pretty simple to get the distributor on the bench and
diassembled to the point of examining, cleaning and lightly lubing the
weights and springs.  There will probably be one 'thin' spring that sits
secure on the posts and one 'fat' spring that fits loosely (because it
doesn't come into play until advance has operated aways).

Geo

From pethier at comcast.net  Mon Jul 16 09:25:49 2012
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2012 15:25:49 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] CALIFORNIA AIR
In-Reply-To: <8CF3161FA748DB3-1010-A7D8E@webmail-d008.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <767856156.91806.1342452349816.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I'm in.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://www.mnautox.com

----- Original Message -----
> From: "Joe Alexander" <n197tr4 at cs.com>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net, 6pack at autox.team.net
> Sent: Monday, July 16, 2012 7:02:16 AM
> Subject: [TR] CALIFORNIA AIR youtube link a TRAILER
> 'California Air' is the Kas Kastner story of his competition years
> with the
> Triumph Factory. This is an exceptional documentary.
> 
> It has, included, great footage of our 10th Running of The Kastner Cup
> at Road
> Atlanta. Additionally, if you joined us in your street TR for the
> weekend,
> there's also footage of the Triumph Corral and Triumph Track Tour.
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=twWHfzI8oiw

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jul 16 09:28:01 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2012 08:28:01 -0700
Subject: [TR] Ignition question (and hello!)
In-Reply-To: <CAGjWObUux1meZzEcdnPQN=i+L-11=heQX5V4V3XbbEPytQKAsw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAGjWObUux1meZzEcdnPQN=i+L-11=heQX5V4V3XbbEPytQKAsw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <10a901cd6367$96985780$0601a8c0@randall>

> I have fairly bad backfiring (through the carbs) under load when
> accelerating.  I have balanced the carb inlets, the mixture 
> seems OK,

Just a thought, have you tried to check the mixture under the conditions
where the problem happens?  I'm wondering if perhaps you have a fuel
delivery problem that is causing the mixture to go lean under load.  

I would also be looking at the wires inside the distributor.  They flex
constantly, so sometimes can break inside the insulation and be intermittent
without being visibly bad.  The test is to hook up an ohmmeter and gently
tug on the wires.  Note that there should be a ground wire between the
moving point plate and the distributor body.  You'll need to undo one of the
mounting screws to check it.

> My big question is: how much should I be able to rotate the 
> distributor
> rotor?  A little?  A lot?  15 degrees? 

15 degrees is about right.

> Should it snap back to a
> position at rest or just flop around?

It should spring back at least partially.  I wouldn't describe it as a
'snap' though, and usually it won't go all the way.

>  I am trying to tell if the
> centrifugal advance springs need replacement.

One good overall test is to put a timing light on the engine while you
slowly rev it up and back down.  It's not even really necessary to mark the
pulley for the various advance points, just watch that the TDC hole moves
smoothly to the right as rpm increases, and back to the left as you let it
down.  If it flops to full advance, or jumps around all over the place, or
doesn't move at all, you've got a sick distributor.  

The main point is how the mark behaves, I generally don't bother trying to
check the amount of advance.  But if you want to, I've put some curves up at
http://goo.gl/4LcFq
for a few of the various TR distributors.  (The list is not exhaustive, so
your car may be wearing something else.)  Note that the figures given are in
distributor degrees and rpm, which is one half of what you will measure at
the crankshaft.  IIRC each 1/4" on the edge of the pulley is roughly equal
to 5 (crankshaft) degrees of advance.

Also, if the car has been stored a long time, it is probably worthwhile to
disassemble the distributor to clean and lubricate it.  Putting a few drops
of oil under the rotor will keep it lubed if done on a regular basis, but of
course that didn't happen while it was stored.  I like to put good quality
grease inside the pivot points and where the weights rub on the support
plate.

I'm kind of sour on electronic ignitions at this point.  They do have some
advantages of course, including less maintenance required but the overall
reliability seems about the same as points to me.  I am currently running
points in my "daily driver" TR3, after having some weird problems with the
Pertronix.  The Pertronix will apparently not fire the plugs when the
battery voltage is way down (but still high enough to turn the starter).
The root cause was a bad battery, but it started fine on points while it
would just crank and crank with the Pertronix.  That's not my only
misadventure with electronic ignition, just the most recent one.

Points will still fire even when the battery is way too dead to turn the
engine.  I proved that again just a few weeks ago, when I accidentally left
the lights on while I went in to work.  By the time I tried to leave, the
(gear drive) starter would only grunt.  Even the warning light on the dash
was way dim.  I set the choke, pushed the car up to walking speed, jumped in
and popped the clutch.  It caught first time, and I drove it home.

Of course, not long after I switched back to points, the condenser died.
Guess maybe I should have put a new one in to begin with, instead of keeping
the 40+ year old one that was with the car when I got it. <g>  But a spare
set of points & condenser are a lot cheaper (free if you save the "known
good" ones from your last tune-up) than carrying a spare electronic
ignition.

-- Randall  

From spitlist at cox.net  Mon Jul 16 10:19:31 2012
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2012 09:19:31 -0700
Subject: [TR] FW: ***PayPal Notice : TODKVODMTI
Message-ID: <F2F9C14DE23A4ADF89281A818E643B93@Vista>

Attention:

Anyone receiving any messages from an internet domain "company.info" send it
to your trash.  Don't answer or reply to it or go to any links contained in
it.  It is just another in a continuing fisching scheme to grab your
personal information.

 

Joe

 

  _____  

From: security at paypal.com [mailto:fjlzsr at company.info] 
Sent: Monday, July 16, 2012 9:08 AM
To: users at paypal.com
Subject: ***PayPal Notice : TODKVODMTI

 

Dear Customer,

 

 

Your account is not eligible for payment services because we were unable to
fully verify your personal information. We want 

 

to make sure that you can use our services at the highest level of security
and the easiest way,that requires that we verify

 

your account information.

 

 

 

In order to complete this verification, please follow the instruction .

 

 

https://www.paypal.com/us/cgi-bin/webscr?cmd=_login-submit
<http://eeduca.com.br/blocat/a.php> 

 

 

 

The system will only ask questions for the information on file.

 

 

 

 

PayPal  is required to send you such notifications regardless of your
unsubscribe status. Please do not reply to this message.

 

Thank you for your business.  We look forward to helping you manage your
money on your terms.

 

  

Sincerely,

 

PayPal Customer Service Team

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Mon Jul 16 12:24:25 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2012 11:24:25 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] CALIFORNIA AIR
In-Reply-To: <767856156.91806.1342452349816.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <8CF3161FA748DB3-1010-A7D8E@webmail-d008.sysops.aol.com>
	<767856156.91806.1342452349816.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1342463065.33039.YahooMailNeo@web120201.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

are you suggesting that the sweet smoky smell we have in the air here in California also enhances automotive performance?
Frank
To: Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com> 
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Monday, July 16, 2012 8:25 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] CALIFORNIA AIR
  
I'm in.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://www.mnautox.com

----- Original Message -----
> From: "Joe Alexander" <n197tr4 at cs.com>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net, 6pack at autox.team.net
> Sent: Monday, July 16, 2012 7:02:16 AM
> Subject: [TR] CALIFORNIA AIR youtube link a TRAILER
> 'California Air' is the Kas Kastner story of his competition years
> with the
> Triumph Factory. This is an exceptional documentary.
> 
> It has, included, great footage of our 10th Running of The Kastner Cup
> at Road
> Atlanta. Additionally, if you joined us in your street TR for the
> weekend,
> there's also footage of the Triumph Corral and Triumph Track Tour.
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=twWHfzI8oiw

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Mon Jul 16 12:30:59 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2012 14:30:59 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] CALIFORNIA AIR
In-Reply-To: <1342463065.33039.YahooMailNeo@web120201.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <8CF3161FA748DB3-1010-A7D8E@webmail-d008.sysops.aol.com>
	<767856156.91806.1342452349816.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<1342463065.33039.YahooMailNeo@web120201.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8CF3198472169DF-1010-B03A2@webmail-d008.sysops.aol.com>

Frank,  when you get your copy of the DVD, you will find it a great story.
Hugely entertaining.

Also, you will find great footage of both the Kastner Cup folks and the VTR
folks in the paddock and in the corral.

Historic moment was captured on tape when Kas Kastner and Bob Tullius greeted
each other warmly after 20+ years.


Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com




-----Original Message-----
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>
To: pethier <pethier at comcast.net>; Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com>
Cc: triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Jul 16, 2012 1:24 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] CALIFORNIA AIR



are you suggesting that the sweet smoky smell we have in the air here in
California also enhances automotive performance?
Frank






  From: "pethier at comcast.net" <pethier at comcast.net>
 To: Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
 Sent: Monday, July 16, 2012 8:25 AM
 Subject: Re: [TR] CALIFORNIA AIR


I'm in.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://www.mnautox.com

----- Original Message -----
> From: "Joe Alexander" <n197tr4 at cs.com>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net, 6pack at autox.team.net
> Sent: Monday, July 16, 2012 7:02:16 AM
> Subject: [TR] CALIFORNIA AIR youtube link a TRAILER
> 'California Air' is the Kas Kastner story of his competition years
> with the
> Triumph Factory. This is an exceptional documentary.
>
> It has, included, great footage of our 10th Running of The Kastner Cup
> at Road
> Atlanta. Additionally, if you joined us in your street TR for the
> weekend,
> there's also footage of the Triumph Corral and Triumph Track Tour.
>
>
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=twWHfzI8oiw

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Mon Jul 16 12:50:01 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2012 11:50:01 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] CALIFORNIA AIR
In-Reply-To: <8CF3198472169DF-1010-B03A2@webmail-d008.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CF3161FA748DB3-1010-A7D8E@webmail-d008.sysops.aol.com>
	<767856156.91806.1342452349816.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<1342463065.33039.YahooMailNeo@web120201.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<8CF3198472169DF-1010-B03A2@webmail-d008.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <1342464601.45245.YahooMailNeo@web120201.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Joe
does it come complete with the vegetation required to replicate California
air?
Frank
 

________________________________
 From: Joe Alexander
<n197tr4 at cs.com>
To: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com; pethier at comcast.net 
Cc:
triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Monday, July 16, 2012 11:30 AM
Subject: Re:
[TR] CALIFORNIA AIR
  

Frank,  when you get your copy of the DVD, you will
find it a great story. Hugely entertaining.

Also, you will find great footage
of both the Kastner Cup folks and the VTR folks in the paddock and in the
corral.

Historic moment was captured on tape when Kas Kastner and Bob Tullius
greeted each other warmly after 20+ years.


Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st
Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com
 


-----Original
Message-----
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>
To: pethier
<pethier at comcast.net>; Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com>
Cc: triumphs
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Jul 16, 2012 1:24 pm
Subject: Re: [TR]
CALIFORNIA AIR


are you suggesting that the sweet smoky smell we have in the
air here in California also enhances automotive performance? 
Frank
To: Joe Alexander <n197tr4 at cs.com> 
Cc:
triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Monday, July 16, 2012 8:25 AM
Subject: Re: [TR]
CALIFORNIA AIR
  
I'm in.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973
Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport
Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007
Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://www.mnautox.com

----- Original Message -----
> From: "Joe Alexander"
<n197tr4 at cs.com>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net, 6pack at autox.team.net
> Sent:
Monday, July 16, 2012 7:02:16 AM
> Subject: [TR] CALIFORNIA AIR youtube link a
TRAILER
> 'California Air' is the Kas Kastner story of his competition years
>
with the
> Triumph Factory. This is an exceptional documentary.
> 
> It has,
included, great footage of our 10th Running of The Kastner Cup
> at Road
>
Atlanta. Additionally, if you joined us in your street TR for the
> weekend,
>
there's also footage of the Triumph Corral and Triumph Track Tour.
> 
> 
> 
>
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=twWHfzI8oiw

** triumphs at autox.team.net **
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:
 http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com

From pethier at comcast.net  Mon Jul 16 13:01:37 2012
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2012 19:01:37 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] CALIFORNIA AIR
In-Reply-To: <8CF3198472169DF-1010-B03A2@webmail-d008.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <886994748.104204.1342465297457.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

> Historic moment was captured on tape when Kas Kastner and Bob Tullius
> greeted each other warmly after 20+ years.

So it's not a Hollywood movie, then?  They would have had one of them slugging the other for that unwanted bump-draft at the Runoffs in 1972.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://www.mnautox.com

From andygraybeal at earthlink.net  Mon Jul 16 13:47:07 2012
From: andygraybeal at earthlink.net (Andy Graybeal)
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2012 12:47:07 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 braking effort
Message-ID: <2A19495F-D40C-4848-85D6-C2AFCF90DAA1@earthlink.net>

I've been told by my son that my brakes are no good--too hard to  
stop. I've never thought about it myself, but maybe it is hard to  
stop. I installed Repco pads to keep my wheels from getting so dusty  
(and, of course, for fade free operation). In my everyday driving, I  
seldom find myself slamming on the brakes, but on the odd occasion  
that happens, I manage to pull it down.

Would the Repco pads be better replaced with stock? The only  
competition I've run the car in is autocross.

Andy Graybeal

From pdqtr6 at comcast.net  Mon Jul 16 18:03:48 2012
From: pdqtr6 at comcast.net (pdqtr6 at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2012 00:03:48 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] The Gecko is Truly Cool...
Message-ID: <1571535190.1784406.1342483428718.JavaMail.root@sz0012a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

I just saw an ad from GEICO where the Gecko is driving around in a red TR3 (a
plastic model - not mine).B  The model isn't perfect, but it's close enough
for TV.B  Something to watch for...

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Mon Jul 16 18:25:05 2012
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2012 19:25:05 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 braking effort
In-Reply-To: <2A19495F-D40C-4848-85D6-C2AFCF90DAA1@earthlink.net>
References: <2A19495F-D40C-4848-85D6-C2AFCF90DAA1@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <7E5306B8A8154CBBAE994CDF921275AB@GregPC>

Andy, I had repco mettalic pads on my TR4A a long time ago, don't know if 
you have the same composition, but they did not have much initial bite from 
cold, they were really good when warmed up, you may be better off with stock 
for street use, or one of the more modern materials (ceramic??) that has 
some of the high performance benefits without the cold use drawbacks.

Greg Lemon
68 TR250

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jul 16 19:19:56 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2012 18:19:56 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 braking effort
In-Reply-To: <2A19495F-D40C-4848-85D6-C2AFCF90DAA1@earthlink.net>
References: <2A19495F-D40C-4848-85D6-C2AFCF90DAA1@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <002901cd63ba$478c5b20$d6a51160$@rr.com>

> I've been told by my son that my brakes are no good--too hard to
> stop. I've never thought about it myself, but maybe it is hard to
> stop.

I'll suggest a simple test:  Find a deserted stretch of road (at least no
one close behind you), then do a straight line panic stop from around 45
mph.  You should be able to lock both front wheels if you want to, then with
just a tad more pressure lock both rears as well.  If so, the brakes are
darn near perfect.  If not, the skid marks on the pavement (or lack thereof)
will tell you what needs to be fixed.

Obviously, keep your wits about you.  If the car starts to do something bad
(like pull to one side or lock one wheel), get your foot off the brake pedal
not stomp it harder.  This is also good practice for a real panic stop.

-- Randall 

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Mon Jul 16 19:32:50 2012
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2012 01:32:50 +0000
Subject: [TR] Wheel bear adjustment.
Message-ID: <BLU162-W33FEF0660DC2DC60A12020E5DB0@phx.gbl>

Some time ago I adopted the practice of torquing the castle nuts for the wheel
bearings on my TR3A to 10 Ft. Lbs. and then backing off one notch before
pinning them.  I found last week that my wheel bearings and races were heat
checked and grooved.  I now consider the tightening practice I used to be too
tight.

Best regards,

Tom

From bill_beecher at flash.net  Mon Jul 16 19:50:54 2012
From: bill_beecher at flash.net (bill_beecher at flash.net)
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2012 20:50:54 -0500
Subject: [TR] Early TR3A on eBay
Message-ID: <1C22F3110D3040879BCEDD3F94F8BA3A@bboffice>

Anybody know this car?  Is supposed to belong to the president of the SoCal
Triumph Owners Assoc.
 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CA-Black-Plate-Exquisitely-Preserved-Factory-
Hard-Soft-Top-Overdrive-No-Reserve-/130731847682?pt=US_Cars_Trucks
<http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CA-Black-Plate-Exquisitely-Preserved-Factory
-Hard-Soft-Top-Overdrive-No-Reserve-/130731847682?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=ite
m1e7039b002> &hash=item1e7039b002

From malcolm at ipatch.ca  Mon Jul 16 23:30:18 2012
From: malcolm at ipatch.ca (Malcolm)
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2012 22:30:18 -0700
Subject: [TR] Ignition question (and hello!)
In-Reply-To: <CANhzkeOj4aKFehjTcYgE4uNXiXxJ7WrbyMQrAzwipET1+ZWWXA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAGjWObUux1meZzEcdnPQN=i+L-11=heQX5V4V3XbbEPytQKAsw@mail.gmail.com>
	<CANhzkeOj4aKFehjTcYgE4uNXiXxJ7WrbyMQrAzwipET1+ZWWXA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAGjWObXh3sWu1WjUNYtyRxfdwid8BCvpmPHLog_H5k0oo=Ji1A@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks all.  Chris, I will probably do this tomorrow.

I filed the points and set the gap today, the car runs a lot better.  Only
an occasional stumble on acceleration.  Also retuned the carbs (rear one
was running rich) and advanced the timing a lot.

I've also bought a new set of points and a condenser.

I'd like to buy a "better" coil, since mine is probably fifty years old.
 Does anyone have any recommendations?

M

On Mon, Jul 16, 2012 at 9:42 AM, Chris Simo <ccsimonsen at gmail.com> wrote:

> No harm in removing the two screws and pulling off your contact breaker
> plate. Make sure the weights move and the springs are intact.  If you have
> a mightyvac you should test your vac advance,  too. I recently had the
> rivet in a rotor come loose and was ground up into what looked like a small
> wad of steel wool.
> On Jul 16, 2012 5:06 AM, "Malcolm" <malcolm at ipatch.ca> wrote:
>
>> Hello list,
>>
>> It's been a very long time since I have sent a message to the team.netlist
>> Triumph.  Some of you may remember me!
>>
>> Anyway, I have now got enough time on my hands to tinker again with my
>> 1962
>> TR4.  Also, this year it is fifty years old, so I feel somewhat obligated
>> to pay attention to it.  I've got a bunch of new parts on it now,
>> including
>> a stainless exhaust and new tacho/speedo cables, and have been trying to
>> get it to run properly.
>>
>> I have fairly bad backfiring (through the carbs) under load when
>> accelerating.  I have balanced the carb inlets, the mixture seems OK, and
>> I've done the static timing.  I have new air filters (K&N) on order.  I
>> suspect that this is an ignition problem, though, and the Haynes manual is
>> dismal when it comes to troubleshooting the distributor.  Nearly every
>> test
>> involves "compare your stuff with new parts, and replace them if they are
>> worn out".
>>
>> My big question is: how much should I be able to rotate the distributor
>> rotor?  A little?  A lot?  15 degrees?  30?  Should it snap back to a
>> position at rest or just flop around?  I am trying to tell if the
>> centrifugal advance springs need replacement.
>>
>> Will the K&N filters require me to fiddle with the timing?  They are
>> 56-9327: http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?prod=56-9327
>>
>> Has anyone got glowing recommendations, or horror stories, for electronic
>> ignition?  I've been scouring the Web and so far have not found a clear
>> winner.  I could rebuild the points (a la Distributor Doctor, or Advanced
>> Distributors) - or get Petronix, Hot-Spark, or some other drop-in
>> electronic replacement.
>>
>> I am not building a concours car.  I want it to be reliable, running on
>> pump gas, with minimal roadside surprises.
>>
>> Thanks!
>> -Malcolm
>>
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ccsimonsen at gmail.com

From malcolm at ipatch.ca  Mon Jul 16 23:40:02 2012
From: malcolm at ipatch.ca (Malcolm)
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2012 22:40:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] Ignition question (and hello!)
In-Reply-To: <CANzE1bF=fxig1NEQAx7Mh+=7RDtzPnCor7sHisR3ndi6f3uWTw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAGjWObUux1meZzEcdnPQN=i+L-11=heQX5V4V3XbbEPytQKAsw@mail.gmail.com>
	<CANzE1bF=fxig1NEQAx7Mh+=7RDtzPnCor7sHisR3ndi6f3uWTw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAGjWObWWHSmbKCe3ci+Yx0cQvyJ6sjp_jzKTnqS0DuD_kvmPNg@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks Geo.  I tried the rotor again tonight and it does return back,
although it's not snappy like I would hope.

I also ran the car with the timing light and saw that it is floating a bit
at idle.  I've got new points to try, and I'll replace the coil, but I
foresee a rebuild in my future.

M

On Mon, Jul 16, 2012 at 7:18 AM, Geo Hahn <ahwahneetr at gmail.com> wrote:

> On Sun, Jul 15, 2012 at 11:34 PM, Malcolm <malcolm at ipatch.ca> wrote:
>
>>  My big question is: how much should I be able to rotate the distributor
>> rotor?  A little?  A lot?  15 degrees?  30?  Should it snap back to a
>> position at rest or just flop around?
>>
>
>
> As I recall the rotor should move about 100 on a correct TR4
> distributor.   When you move it I think you want it to snap back
> sharpish... if it is reluctant or 'flopping around' then it needs
attention.
>
> You might look at the number on the distributor body as through the years
> it may have been swapped with something slightly different from original --
> I'm thinking it would have been 40735A or 40795A.
>
> In any case, it is pretty simple to get the distributor on the bench and
> diassembled to the point of examining, cleaning and lightly lubing the
> weights and springs.  There will probably be one 'thin' spring that sits
> secure on the posts and one 'fat' spring that fits loosely (because it
> doesn't come into play until advance has operated aways).
>
> Geo

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Jul 17 01:04:05 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2012 00:04:05 -0700
Subject: [TR] Early TR3A on eBay
In-Reply-To: <1C22F3110D3040879BCEDD3F94F8BA3A@bboffice>
References: <1C22F3110D3040879BCEDD3F94F8BA3A@bboffice>
Message-ID: <119d01cd63ea$5b1da920$0601a8c0@randall>

> Anybody know this car?  Is supposed to belong to the 
> president of the SoCal
> Triumph Owners Assoc.

Well, I at least know of it.  The owner is not currently president of SCTOA,
but has served several terms in that capacity and is still on the board.
I'm a bit surprised to see it on eBay, but she did mention some months ago
that she was thinking of selling it.  Last time I saw her drive it was
several years ago, and she was having some mild troubles with the clutch
slave leaking.  But I'm sure she took it to Britalia the next day and had it
professionally tended to.

BTW, I'm pretty sure that is not the original paint, even though the ad
might give that impression.

She also has a TR4 and Morgan +8, which are seen at club events much more
often than the 3A.

Email me off list if you would like contact information.  It's too late to
call tonight and I'm not comfortable posting it on the list without her
permission, even though it's been inside the front cover of practically
every edition of the club newsletter for many years now.

-- Randall  

From mgodley at tiac.net  Tue Jul 17 04:59:40 2012
From: mgodley at tiac.net (Michael Godley)
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2012 06:59:40 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR Ignition
Message-ID: <CC2ABDDC.10172%mgodley@tiac.net>

Welcome back Malcolm

"Has anyone got glowing recommendations, or horror stories, for electronic
ignition?   I could rebuild the points (a la Distributor Doctor, or Advanced
Distributors) - or get Petronix, Hot-Spark, or some other drop-in
electronic replacement"

The electronic ignition replaces the points and helps if the shaft is wobbly
due to worn bearings
.but won't improve performance loss due to a broken
vacuum advance system. I was back and forth on this one, and even ran the
very reliable Allison Opto Electric (now Crane) system for many years.  Sent
the distributor to Advanced for a rebuild with points

what an  improvement.
The advance was not functioning properly, and Jeff has and improved advance
curve he developed, along with rotors that don't fail at the rivets.  The
car has never run better.   Pertronix seems to be the most popular
electronic system, and often discussed in the past.  Quite a few of the
folks with that system have a "backup" that is essentially a distributor
plate with set of points ready to install if the electronic system
fails
.which they do/did  often enough that folks felt this was necessary.
So MHO is get it rebuilt with points or have the e-ignition supplied
installed and bench tested at the time of rebuild.  Personally, I stayed
with points to keep things simple and reliable for the time being.

"I'd like to buy a "better" coil, since mine is probably fifty years old.
Does anyone have any recommendations?"

You might want to make a decision on the electronic ignition first as some
require a ballasted or non ballasted Coil set-up (can't recall which) which
is different than the stock configuration.

Mike Godley
65TR4A

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Tue Jul 17 05:20:43 2012
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl-TR)
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2012 07:20:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] The Gecko is Truly Cool...
In-Reply-To: <1571535190.1784406.1342483428718.JavaMail.root@sz0012a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1571535190.1784406.1342483428718.JavaMail.root@sz0012a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <002701cd640e$34e5af40$9eb10dc0$@verizon.net>

That ad has been around for some time here in FL.   To me it is closer to a
MGA (maybe with a Healey front nose) than a '3.   Regardless it does promote
LBC's...
Carl


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of pdqtr6 at comcast.net
Sent: Monday, July 16, 2012 8:04 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] The Gecko is Truly Cool...

I just saw an ad from GEICO where the Gecko is driving around in a red TR3
(a plastic model - not mine).B  The model isn't perfect, but it's close
enough for TV.B  Something to watch for...

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Tue Jul 17 06:01:31 2012
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2012 08:01:31 -0400
Subject: [TR] Ignition question (and hello!)
In-Reply-To: <CAGjWObXh3sWu1WjUNYtyRxfdwid8BCvpmPHLog_H5k0oo=Ji1A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAGjWObUux1meZzEcdnPQN=i+L-11=heQX5V4V3XbbEPytQKAsw@mail.gmail.com>
	<CANhzkeOj4aKFehjTcYgE4uNXiXxJ7WrbyMQrAzwipET1+ZWWXA@mail.gmail.com>
	<CAGjWObXh3sWu1WjUNYtyRxfdwid8BCvpmPHLog_H5k0oo=Ji1A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <5005541B.7070501@adelphia.net>

Malcolm,

I use the Lucas sport coils on all my Triumphs. I have never had a failure.

I have heard that some have had the sport coil fail.

Now on my 3 and 4, I have mounted the coil on the inside of the fender 
well in order to keep it cooler than it would be on the block. I am not 
sure it has helped but no failures yet.

I wanted to do the same on the 6 but because of the 6 cyl engine's 
length and the position of the distributor, the distance from a 
potential coil mount similar to the 4 would make a very long connection 
from the coil to the distributor. So that coil is still mounted on the 
block.

Petronix makes the flame thrower coil. Maybe others will chime in on 
their coil choice.

Bob

On 07/17/2012 01:30 AM, Malcolm wrote:
> Thanks all.  Chris, I will probably do this tomorrow.
>
> I filed the points and set the gap today, the car runs a lot better.  Only
> an occasional stumble on acceleration.  Also retuned the carbs (rear one
> was running rich) and advanced the timing a lot.
>
> I've also bought a new set of points and a condenser.
>
> I'd like to buy a "better" coil, since mine is probably fifty years old.
>   Does anyone have any recommendations?
>
> M

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue Jul 17 06:07:04 2012
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2012 08:07:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 Driver Killed in Road Rage Accident
Message-ID: <F8DE72BF74C64783B0948F4AD09D4257@BobPC>

Awful tragedy.....
http://www.pressdemocrat.com/article/20120716/ARTICLES/120719699/1350    Did
anyone know this person?

From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk  Tue Jul 17 09:48:46 2012
From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2012 16:48:46 +0100 (BST)
Subject: [TR] TR6 Driver Killed in Road Rage Accident
In-Reply-To: <F8DE72BF74C64783B0948F4AD09D4257@BobPC>
References: <F8DE72BF74C64783B0948F4AD09D4257@BobPC>
Message-ID: <1342540126.34869.YahooMailNeo@web29401.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

Detention for a long, long time and throw away the key. These perople deserve
everything a Court throws at them.
 
Jonmac
________________________________
From: Bob Danielson <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
To:
triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Tuesday, 17 July 2012, 13:07
Subject: [TR] TR6
Driver Killed in Road Rage Accident


>Awful tragedy.....
>http://www.pressdemocrat.com/article/20120716/ARTICLES/120719699/1350    Did
>anyone know this person?
>
>** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
>Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk

From grandfatherjim at gmail.com  Tue Jul 17 10:02:22 2012
From: grandfatherjim at gmail.com (Jim Wallace)
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2012 12:02:22 -0400
Subject: [TR] Ignition question (and hello!)
Message-ID: <CAA43NTv=Unef5_NRduomN8VHmnNNz8+Ddymdpds_4oz6431BsQ@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Malcolm,
I have a glowing recommendation. I used a Crane electronic ignition in my
72 VW camper and am very pleased. I think it's the Fireball XR-700.
Instead of  points, this system uses a disc with slits in it that slides
onto the distributor cam. There is an LED and sensor, and the disc rotates
between them, so the coil fires whenever the beam of light goes through a
slit.
A bit hard to describe but simple when you see it.
A major benefit is that it does not care about distributor shaft wobble,
which I had. I also had a scored cam, which wore down my points quickly,
and now this is not an issue. Your centrifugal and vacuum advances still do
have to work properly.
My idle is now rock steady and the timing light gives a very narrow beam at
all speeds.
Also - there have been enough reports about failing Pertronix units
(magnets falling out) that I wanted to stay away from those.
Jim


> From: Malcolm <malcolm at ipatch.ca>
>
> ......Has anyone got glowing recommendations, or horror stories, for
> electronic
> ignition?  I've been scouring the Web and so far have not found a clear
> winner.  I could rebuild the points (a la Distributor Doctor, or Advanced
> Distributors) - or get Petronix, Hot-Spark, or some other drop-in
> electronic replacement.

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Tue Jul 17 10:16:25 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2012 09:16:25 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] tr3 starter
Message-ID: <1342541785.94129.YahooMailNeo@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

every now again when i press the starter button, the starter motor whines and spins but does not engage.
try it again and it spins, maybe one or 2 more times and it engages and starts the engine.
i think i just need to clean pinion shaft? no??
thanks

From mhooper at indiefilmnet.com  Tue Jul 17 11:08:00 2012
From: mhooper at indiefilmnet.com (Mark Hooper)
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2012 13:08:00 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 Driver Killed in Road Rage Accident
In-Reply-To: <F8DE72BF74C64783B0948F4AD09D4257@BobPC>
Message-ID: <d8f8cf19.1cd643e.b44020fb.383f@indiefilmnet.com>

Just terrible!

The article says it's a Spitfire, but at first sight of the image, I thought
it was a TR6.

What a wretched way to go, and for such a pointless stupid reason!

Mark
1992 TR6


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Danielson
Sent: July-17-12 8:07 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR6 Driver Killed in Road Rage Accident

Awful tragedy.....
http://www.pressdemocrat.com/article/20120716/ARTICLES/120719699/1350    Did
anyone know this person?

From pethier at comcast.net  Tue Jul 17 11:36:19 2012
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2012 17:36:19 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR6 Driver Killed in Road Rage Accident
In-Reply-To: <F8DE72BF74C64783B0948F4AD09D4257@BobPC>
Message-ID: <1422368153.146475.1342546579774.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I hope they fry her until the street lights dim.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://www.mnautox.com

----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob Danielson" <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2012 7:07:04 AM
> Subject: [TR] TR6 Driver Killed in Road Rage Accident
> Awful tragedy.....
> http://www.pressdemocrat.com/article/20120716/ARTICLES/120719699/1350
> Did
> anyone know this person?
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net

From tr3a.60 at gmail.com  Tue Jul 17 11:51:18 2012
From: tr3a.60 at gmail.com (John Wise)
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2012 13:51:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] Ignition question (and hello!)
In-Reply-To: <CAA43NTv=Unef5_NRduomN8VHmnNNz8+Ddymdpds_4oz6431BsQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAA43NTv=Unef5_NRduomN8VHmnNNz8+Ddymdpds_4oz6431BsQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DAF3CBB7-E99A-45AB-A377-E8F91BF8E34B@gmail.com>

On  17 Jul, 2012, at 12:02 PM, Jim Wallace wrote:

> Hi Malcolm,
> I have a glowing recommendation. I used a Crane electronic ignition in my
> 72 VW camper and am very pleased. I think it's the Fireball XR-700...

I have installed the Crane electronic ignition system in both my previous MGB
(that I gave my daughter) and now in my TR3A.  It made them both as reliable
as my wife's Honda.

I remain very happy with it & recommend it.

John

John A. Wise
Ormond Beach, FL

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L

1977 Porsche 911S

From bkahler1 at gmail.com  Tue Jul 17 12:00:08 2012
From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2012 14:00:08 -0400
Subject: [TR] 4:10 diff
Message-ID: <CADm3DLGaxu76EACJUVVcD6e_JvrNO+PXxZEUes2-K7fRqsKQDA@mail.gmail.com>

Listers,

Now that I have the TR4 street worthy and have been driving it I've come to
realize that the differential in the car is a 4:10.  I've verified this by
comparing tach readings with road speeds via GPS.

So that leaves me with the problem of the speedometer being way off.  This
is the speedometer that was in the car when I got it so either the
speedometer was replaced at some point or else the diff was swapped out for
the original 3:70 diff.

I'm looking to find out which speedometer would be correct for the car,
i.e. what numbers would I find on the front of the speedometer that would
indicated it is for a 4:10 diff?

Thanks,

Brad

From pethier at comcast.net  Tue Jul 17 12:20:46 2012
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2012 18:20:46 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] 4:10 diff
In-Reply-To: <CADm3DLGaxu76EACJUVVcD6e_JvrNO+PXxZEUes2-K7fRqsKQDA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1554641120.148957.1342549246729.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Jack up one rear wheel, turn the wheel and count the wheel revolutions.

Have Susan count the driveshaft bolts going by.

Do the math.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://www.mnautox.com

From pethier at comcast.net  Tue Jul 17 12:22:48 2012
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2012 18:22:48 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] The Gecko is Truly Cool...
In-Reply-To: <1571535190.1784406.1342483428718.JavaMail.root@sz0012a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <789373358.149072.1342549368770.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

INteresting.  I've seen him in a Big Healey.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://www.mnautox.com

----- Original Message -----
> From: pdqtr6 at comcast.net
> To: "Triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, July 16, 2012 7:03:48 PM
> Subject: [TR] The Gecko is Truly Cool...
> I just saw an ad from GEICO where the Gecko is driving around in a red
> TR3 (a
> plastic model - not mine).B The model isn't perfect, but it's close
> enough
> for TV.B Something to watch for...
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Jul 17 12:36:52 2012
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2012 14:36:52 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] tr3 starter
Message-ID: <373e8.105992f1.3d370ac4@cs.com>

Lets hope so.  But that is the first thing to try.  Clean and lubricate.  
Back in the early 70's I drove an MGB as a daily driver and I had the same 
problem.  Clean and lub made it a whole new starter.

Dave

In a message dated 7/17/2012 1:01:42 PM Central Daylight Time, 
yellowtr3 at yahoo.com writes: 
> every now again when i press the starter button, the starter motor whines 
> and spins but does not engage.
> try it again and it spins, maybe one or 2 more times and it engages and 
> starts the engine.
> i think i just need to clean pinion shaft? no??

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Tue Jul 17 12:41:08 2012
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2012 11:41:08 -0700
Subject: [TR] Early TR3A on eBay
In-Reply-To: <119d01cd63ea$5b1da920$0601a8c0@randall>
References: <1C22F3110D3040879BCEDD3F94F8BA3A@bboffice>
	<119d01cd63ea$5b1da920$0601a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bG0Nx84W2H1uYsy-N+fhamNd5P1K7p+eCM9ZSa6UufWnw@mail.gmail.com>

On Tue, Jul 17, 2012 at 12:04 AM, Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

> BTW, I'm pretty sure that is not the original paint, even though the ad
> might give that impression...



The copy writer may have gotten a bit carried away in a couple of spots.
Mentions more than once that the tires are nearly new and recently mounted,
but the photos are sufficiently detailed you can read the date code (even
if you didn't know that that tire has been out of production for some time).

It does appear to be a pretty good example, no doubt well out of my price
range when the hammer falls.

Geo

From bkahler1 at gmail.com  Tue Jul 17 12:43:11 2012
From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2012 14:43:11 -0400
Subject: [TR] 4:10 diff
In-Reply-To: <1554641120.148957.1342549246729.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <CADm3DLGaxu76EACJUVVcD6e_JvrNO+PXxZEUes2-K7fRqsKQDA@mail.gmail.com>
	<1554641120.148957.1342549246729.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CADm3DLHeDPNrwi5v5BGmyocpyA86oBRNLSuuPwqmNKfPnfmLkg@mail.gmail.com>

That method involves higher math...

On Tue, Jul 17, 2012 at 2:20 PM, <pethier at comcast.net> wrote:

> Jack up one rear wheel, turn the wheel and count the wheel revolutions.
>
> Have Susan count the driveshaft bolts going by.
>
> Do the math.
>
> Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
> 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
> 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
> 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
> 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
> pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
> http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
> http://www.mnautox.com

From dave at ranteer.com  Tue Jul 17 12:49:28 2012
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2012 13:49:28 -0500
Subject: [TR] Ignition question (and hello!)
In-Reply-To: <DAF3CBB7-E99A-45AB-A377-E8F91BF8E34B@gmail.com>
References: <CAA43NTv=Unef5_NRduomN8VHmnNNz8+Ddymdpds_4oz6431BsQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<DAF3CBB7-E99A-45AB-A377-E8F91BF8E34B@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <3E8EAD5023D64B02A5D67C4ABC025E6A@ranteer.local>

I have the pertronix in several cars.  many thousands of miles, many years, 
no problems.  (with the pertronix) 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Jul 17 13:38:30 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2012 12:38:30 -0700
Subject: [TR] 4:10 diff
In-Reply-To: <CADm3DLGaxu76EACJUVVcD6e_JvrNO+PXxZEUes2-K7fRqsKQDA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CADm3DLGaxu76EACJUVVcD6e_JvrNO+PXxZEUes2-K7fRqsKQDA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <00c701cd6453$bfb892a0$3f29b7e0$@rr.com>

> I'm looking to find out which speedometer would be correct for the car,
> i.e. what numbers would I find on the front of the speedometer that
> would
> indicated it is for a 4:10 diff?

I don't know the exact number for a TR4, but the first two digits should be
13xx rather than 11xx for the 3.7 diff.

I had the same problem with TS13571L, which didn't even have an overdrive!
(When I got it, of course.) Frankly, I didn't like the 4.10 gears on the
street even with overdrive (behind a relatively stock motor), the 3.7 I have
now suits me much better and I'm planning to go to 3.45 as soon as I get a
spare axle built up.

If you want to change, I'm sure there would be lots of racers more than
willing to trade a 3.70 gear set with you.

-- Randall 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Jul 17 13:43:14 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2012 12:43:14 -0700
Subject: [TR] tr3 starter
In-Reply-To: <1342541785.94129.YahooMailNeo@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1342541785.94129.YahooMailNeo@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <00cb01cd6454$68d51d40$3a7f57c0$@rr.com>

> every now again when i press the starter button, the starter motor
> whines and spins but does not engage.
> try it again and it spins, maybe one or 2 more times and it engages and
> starts the engine.
> i think i just need to clean pinion shaft? no??

Could be; but if it is getting noticeably worse over time, I might suspect
that the bonded rubber drive is slipping.

Of course that is assuming you are talking about the first press of the
starter button.  If it starts to crank and then kicks out, you have to wait
for the drive to stop spinning before it will engage again.  Frustrating as
all get out in cold weather, when the engine will frequently fire but not
start.

-- Randall 

From bkahler1 at gmail.com  Tue Jul 17 13:48:45 2012
From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2012 15:48:45 -0400
Subject: [TR] 4:10 diff
In-Reply-To: <00c701cd6453$bfb892a0$3f29b7e0$@rr.com>
References: <CADm3DLGaxu76EACJUVVcD6e_JvrNO+PXxZEUes2-K7fRqsKQDA@mail.gmail.com>
	<00c701cd6453$bfb892a0$3f29b7e0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <CADm3DLHmzKEX1rCgHCg4Cst4PSonyqv+JeL+K+Ko4m6zxzCJzw@mail.gmail.com>

> > indicated it is for a 4:10 diff?
>
> I don't know the exact number for a TR4, but the first two digits should be
> 13xx rather than 11xx for the 3.7 diff.
>
>
Hmm, I wonder if 1384 might be the number.  I don't know that I have one
with that number in my box of spares.  If I can find the box I guess the
smart thing would be to compare numbers and see if I have an odd ball one :)


> I had the same problem with TS13571L, which didn't even have an overdrive!
> (When I got it, of course.) Frankly, I didn't like the 4.10 gears on the
> street even with overdrive (behind a relatively stock motor), the 3.7 I
> have
> now suits me much better and I'm planning to go to 3.45 as soon as I get a
> spare axle built up.
>
>
Living in LA like you do I can see where a 4:10 would not be of much use.
 Here in Kentucky there isn't a straight road to be found.  Heck even my
driveway has twists and turns!

I've got a 3:70 diff that I can use if I want to but I do have an OD to
install this winter so until the 4:10 proves it's not suitable for my
driving style I'll probably stick with it.


> If you want to change, I'm sure there would be lots of racers more than
> willing to trade a 3.70 gear set with you.
>
>
That's for sure.

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Tue Jul 17 14:11:56 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2012 13:11:56 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Early TR3A on eBay
In-Reply-To: <1C22F3110D3040879BCEDD3F94F8BA3A@bboffice>
References: <1C22F3110D3040879BCEDD3F94F8BA3A@bboffice>
Message-ID: <1342555916.50530.YahooMailNeo@web120205.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

i know the owner of that car and she is a very nice lady.
if you want a car
that has been baby'd and looked after you wont do better than this.
its a very
nice car that has been looked after extremely well
Frank
 
________________________________
 From: "bill_beecher at flash.net"
<bill_beecher at flash.net>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Monday, July 16,
2012 6:50 PM
Subject: [TR] Early TR3A on eBay
  
Anybody know this car?  Is
supposed to belong to the president of the SoCal
Triumph Owners Assoc.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CA-Black-Plate-Exquisitely-Preserved-Factory-
Hard-Soft-Top-Overdrive-No-Reserve-/130731847682?pt=US_Cars_Trucks
<http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CA-Black-Plate-Exquisitely-Preserved-Factory
-Hard-Soft-Top-Overdrive-No-Reserve-/130731847682?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=ite
m1e7039b002> &hash=item1e7039b002

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Tue Jul 17 14:15:09 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2012 13:15:09 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] tr3 starter
In-Reply-To: <00cb01cd6454$68d51d40$3a7f57c0$@rr.com>
References: <1342541785.94129.YahooMailNeo@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<00cb01cd6454$68d51d40$3a7f57c0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <1342556109.7770.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

i am talking the first press of the button.
once the started engages the
flywheel i fire right up.
what bonded rubber drive would you be referring to?
Frank
TS41366L
 

________________________________
 From: Randall
<tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: 'Frank Fisher' <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>; 'Triumphs'
<triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2012 12:43 PM
Subject: RE:
[TR] tr3 starter
  
> every now again when i press the starter button, the
starter motor
> whines and spins but does not engage.
> try it again and it
spins, maybe one or 2 more times and it engages and
> starts the engine.
> i
think i just need to clean pinion shaft? no??

Could be; but if it is getting
noticeably worse over time, I might suspect
that the bonded rubber drive is
slipping.

Of course that is assuming you are talking about the first press of
the
starter button.  If it starts to crank and then kicks out, you have to
wait
for the drive to stop spinning before it will engage again.  Frustrating
as
all get out in cold weather, when the engine will frequently fire but not
start.

-- Randall

From leejohn7 at gmail.com  Tue Jul 17 16:26:29 2012
From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard)
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2012 15:26:29 -0700
Subject: [TR] Webers on my TR4
Message-ID: <CAJaD1DM=yZwavSpMQJuPPVMS+aVfV12CFEoG4U_mkTMxukJPRw@mail.gmail.com>

My Weber are acting up.  They were running fine and strong until:
I messed around and changed the fuel line to an older braided SS line for
appearances sake. Then, the carbs began to stumble and spit. They would
barely idle and would not accelerate. Changed back to new rubber fuel line
and changed the in line filter. No improvement.
Thinking the mechanical pump must be gone again, switched in an electric.
No improvement.
Checked the timing - basically OK, though hard to tell with the rpms moving
all over the place.
Changed the plugs ( was going to anyway.)
Reset the Webers to their initial settings.  No change.
Finally, remover the cover to the pump. Diaphragm looks OK. There was gas
on top but I assume that leaked through from the bowl as I broke the seal.

So what gives? Could the main jet be clogged? I'll go check that.

Any ideas? Could it still be electrical?

Many thanks

JohnH

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Tue Jul 17 16:48:18 2012
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2012 15:48:18 -0700
Subject: [TR] tr3 starter
In-Reply-To: <1342556109.7770.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1342541785.94129.YahooMailNeo@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<00cb01cd6454$68d51d40$3a7f57c0$@rr.com>
	<1342556109.7770.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bFWzTfTmi5JNBDjJ7RhOSGcRJqBEtFuQ70USVALimep8A@mail.gmail.com>

#46 here<http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29170>,
or p/n 549-580<http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/SearchResults.aspx?SearchText=549-580%20&WebCatalogID=0>
.

These were NLA back in the 80s and I fixed mine by jamming strips of inner
tube between the sleeve and inner bit.  Was still working 20 years later
when I finally had the starter apart to re-wrap the fields and replaced it.

Geo


On Tue, Jul 17, 2012 at 1:15 PM, Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com> wrote:

> i am talking the first press of the button.
> once the started engages the
> flywheel i fire right up.
> what bonded rubber drive would you be referring to?

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Tue Jul 17 16:51:39 2012
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2012 15:51:39 -0700
Subject: [TR] Webers on my TR4
In-Reply-To: <CAJaD1DM=yZwavSpMQJuPPVMS+aVfV12CFEoG4U_mkTMxukJPRw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJaD1DM=yZwavSpMQJuPPVMS+aVfV12CFEoG4U_mkTMxukJPRw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <5005EC7B.8050902@gmail.com>

You know you cold have saved yourself a whole lot of time, $$ and effort 
if you had put a fuel pressure gauge on it to verify you were getting 
between 2 & 3 lbs pressure at the carbs.

The brass plug by the fuel inlet covers the filter screen.  You could 
pull them to see if the filters got clogged. If the filters are missing 
or torn it would not hurt to pull the tops of the carbs and verify that 
a piece of crud has not lodged in the float valve keeping it from 
closing properly.  The built in filter is supposed to keep that from 
happening and jets from getting clogged.

   The big brass cover in the middle with the winged nut covers the main 
and idle jets.  You could look at the idle jets to see if one is clogged.

IMPORTANT TO REMEMBER: fuel system and electrical system problems mostly 
have the same symptoms.

Do a spark check to see if you have a strong blue spark.

A bad condenser can cause the idle to bounce around.

On 7/17/12 3:26 PM, Lee&John Howard wrote:
> My Weber are acting up.  They were running fine and strong until:
> I messed around and changed the fuel line to an older braided SS line for
> appearances sake. Then, the carbs began to stumble and spit. They would
> barely idle and would not accelerate. Changed back to new rubber fuel line
> and changed the in line filter. No improvement.
> Thinking the mechanical pump must be gone again, switched in an electric.
> No improvement.
> Checked the timing - basically OK, though hard to tell with the rpms moving
> all over the place.
> Changed the plugs ( was going to anyway.)
> Reset the Webers to their initial settings.  No change.
> Finally, remover the cover to the pump. Diaphragm looks OK. There was gas
> on top but I assume that leaked through from the bowl as I broke the seal.
>
> So what gives? Could the main jet be clogged? I'll go check that.
>
> Any ideas? Could it still be electrical?
>
> Many thanks
>
> JohnH
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tjwakeman at gmail.com

From jdabars at att.net  Tue Jul 17 17:15:22 2012
From: jdabars at att.net (Janis Dabars)
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2012 16:15:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Fw: Triumf Grave yard. very depressing  **********
Message-ID: <1342566922.94526.YahooMailRC@web83710.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

----- Forwarded Message ----
From: Janis Dabars <jdabars at att.net
Subject:
Fw: Triumf Grave yard. very depressing **********






----- Forwarded
Message ----
From: Janis Dabars jdabars at att.net
Subject: Fw: Triumf Grave
yard. very depressing **********


Is this place in USA, California?
What you
think?  LET ME KNOW



----- Forwarded Message ----
From: Janis Dabars
jdabars at att.net

Subject: Triumf Grave yard. very depressing


Click on this. 
IF you into Triumphs--DEPRESSING!  Where is this holy grale?
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gLodGhh9moE

From jdabars at att.net  Tue Jul 17 17:16:24 2012
From: jdabars at att.net (Janis Dabars)
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2012 16:16:24 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Fw: Gumball 3000 2012 ralley    wild cars----NY to LA  47min,
 54 sec, long
Message-ID: <1342566984.6130.YahooMailRC@web83709.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

----- Forwarded Message ----
From: Janis Dabars <jdabars at att.net
Subject:
Fw: Gumball 3000 2012 ralley wild cars----NY to LA 47min, 54 sec,long
----- Forwarded Message ----
From: Janis Dabars jdabars at att.net

Subject:
Gumball 3000 2012 ralley wild cars----NY to LA 47min, 54 sec,


click on this
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wpGCzV0zAys

Great cars, scenery
-----Fantastic   PLEASE LET ME KNOW HOW YOU LIKED IT>
John in Indianapolis,
Indiana, USA

From leejohn7 at gmail.com  Tue Jul 17 17:55:41 2012
From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard)
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2012 16:55:41 -0700
Subject: [TR] Webers on my TR4
In-Reply-To: <5005EC7B.8050902@gmail.com>
References: <CAJaD1DM=yZwavSpMQJuPPVMS+aVfV12CFEoG4U_mkTMxukJPRw@mail.gmail.com>
	<5005EC7B.8050902@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAJaD1DOvmNojmkqVAH1cO8TqU4av6jA-uYyQL-uxwkfB7Zb4Qg@mail.gmail.com>

Good ideas.
I never added the fuel pressure gauge because, well, it was working fine
without it! I have checked the filter screen and it was 95% clean.
Condenser is a god idea and might have gone coincidentally with my screwing
around with the fuel lines, I guess.
I will pull the jets, but don't see how anything could get by the fuel
inlet screens.
Incidentally, your Weber site is a regular reference for me. Thank you for
that.
John

On Tue, Jul 17, 2012 at 3:51 PM, TeriAnn J. Wakeman <tjwakeman at gmail.com>wrote:

> You know you cold have saved yourself a whole lot of time, $$ and effort
> if you had put a fuel pressure gauge on it to verify you were getting
> between 2 & 3 lbs pressure at the carbs.
>
> The brass plug by the fuel inlet covers the filter screen.  You could
> pull them to see if the filters got clogged. If the filters are missing
> or torn it would not hurt to pull the tops of the carbs and verify that
> a piece of crud has not lodged in the float valve keeping it from
> closing properly.  The built in filter is supposed to keep that from
> happening and jets from getting clogged.
>
>    The big brass cover in the middle with the winged nut covers the main
> and idle jets.  You could look at the idle jets to see if one is clogged.
>
> IMPORTANT TO REMEMBER: fuel system and electrical system problems mostly
> have the same symptoms.
>
> Do a spark check to see if you have a strong blue spark.
>
> A bad condenser can cause the idle to bounce around.
>
> On 7/17/12 3:26 PM, Lee&John Howard wrote:
> > My Weber are acting up.  They were running fine and strong until:
> > I messed around and changed the fuel line to an older braided SS line for
> > appearances sake. Then, the carbs began to stumble and spit. They would
> > barely idle and would not accelerate. Changed back to new rubber fuel
> line
> > and changed the in line filter. No improvement.
> > Thinking the mechanical pump must be gone again, switched in an electric.
> > No improvement.
> > Checked the timing - basically OK, though hard to tell with the rpms
> moving
> > all over the place.
> > Changed the plugs ( was going to anyway.)
> > Reset the Webers to their initial settings.  No change.
> > Finally, remover the cover to the pump. Diaphragm looks OK. There was gas
> > on top but I assume that leaked through from the bowl as I broke the
> seal.
> >
> > So what gives? Could the main jet be clogged? I'll go check that.
> >
> > Any ideas? Could it still be electrical?
> >
> > Many thanks
> >
> > JohnH
> >
> > ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tjwakeman at gmail.com
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/leejohn7 at gmail.com

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Jul 17 17:57:31 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2012 16:57:31 -0700
Subject: [TR] tr3 starter
In-Reply-To: <1342556109.7770.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1342541785.94129.YahooMailNeo@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<00cb01cd6454$68d51d40$3a7f57c0$@rr.com>
	<1342556109.7770.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <012a01cd6477$ee1c72a0$ca5557e0$@rr.com>

> what bonded rubber drive would you be referring to?

On the early (pre-TS50000) starter, there is a drive piece between the
armature and the pinion shaft.  Its construction is somewhat similar to the
silentbloc pivots in the steering, with an inner and outer steel tube and
rubber between them (which is supposed to be bonded to both of them).  The
intent I assume is to provide some cushion when the spinning pinion gear
slams into the stationary ring gear.  It seems to break rather often,
especially if your engine has been modified with bigger liners and/or higher
compression but the starter will still sometimes work due to friction
between the rubber and steel.

Item N in the attached drawing (which of course won't make it through the
list) or figure 20 on page M16 of the factory workshop manual.

The problem is (was) prevalent enough that Ken Gillanders had a run made of
"fail safe" replacements that used a paddle arrangement with urethane in
compression between the paddles.  No bonds to break, and if the urethane
broke and fell out, the paddles would still turn the engine.  But I think I
got the last two of them and Ken said he had no plans to have more made.

-- Randall 

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of untitled.JPG]

From jdabars at att.net  Tue Jul 17 18:11:44 2012
From: jdabars at att.net (Janis Dabars)
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2012 17:11:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Fw: Fwd: Crumpled TR250 Photos
Message-ID: <1342570304.87386.YahooMailRC@web83703.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

----- Forwarded Message ----
From: Janis Dabars <jdabars at a
Subject: Fw:
Fwd: Crumpled TR250 Photos


sitting on south side of Indy



----- Forwarded
Message ----

 
Subject: Fwd: Crumpled TR250 Photo

>
>Gentsm
>My latest
purchase  TR-250----$35.00  needs attention--lots of it
>Want more info about
this RARE 44 year Classic?
>Should I put it on Ebay?  Please advise.
>
>John

From wbeech at flash.net  Tue Jul 17 18:13:23 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2012 19:13:23 -0500
Subject: [TR] Fw: Triumf Grave yard. very depressing  **********
In-Reply-To: <1342566922.94526.YahooMailRC@web83710.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <1342566922.94526.YahooMailRC@web83710.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <E8FA2F92AAF64F59B745CF423D03883E@bboffice>

Should we organise a pilgrimage and wreath-laying?

BB 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Janis Dabars
Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2012 6:15 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Fw: Triumf Grave yard. very depressing **********

----- Forwarded Message ----
From: Janis Dabars <jdabars at att.net
Subject:
Fw: Triumf Grave yard. very depressing **********






----- Forwarded
Message ----
From: Janis Dabars jdabars at att.net
Subject: Fw: Triumf Grave
yard. very depressing **********


Is this place in USA, California?
What you
think?  LET ME KNOW



----- Forwarded Message ----
From: Janis Dabars
jdabars at att.net

Subject: Triumf Grave yard. very depressing


Click on this. 
IF you into Triumphs--DEPRESSING!  Where is this holy grale?
 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gLodGhh9moE

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Jul 17 18:44:13 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2012 17:44:13 -0700
Subject: [TR] Fw: Triumf Grave yard. very depressing  **********
In-Reply-To: <1342566922.94526.YahooMailRC@web83710.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <1342566922.94526.YahooMailRC@web83710.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <013401cd647e$74330510$5c990f30$@rr.com>

> Is this place in USA, California?
> What you
> think?  LET ME KNOW

No, I don't think so.  Too many RHD cars, plus there's a comment to the
effect that it's a dealer in Cheshire.

-- Randall 

From malcolm at ipatch.ca  Tue Jul 17 22:18:33 2012
From: malcolm at ipatch.ca (Malcolm)
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2012 21:18:33 -0700
Subject: [TR] Ignition question (and hello!)
In-Reply-To: <CAGjWObWWHSmbKCe3ci+Yx0cQvyJ6sjp_jzKTnqS0DuD_kvmPNg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAGjWObUux1meZzEcdnPQN=i+L-11=heQX5V4V3XbbEPytQKAsw@mail.gmail.com>
	<CANzE1bF=fxig1NEQAx7Mh+=7RDtzPnCor7sHisR3ndi6f3uWTw@mail.gmail.com>
	<CAGjWObWWHSmbKCe3ci+Yx0cQvyJ6sjp_jzKTnqS0DuD_kvmPNg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAGjWObXkw=1LM+PRkqeY4L-YnDp+bP418T6y1qQC2eWZ4yVVCw@mail.gmail.com>

Tonight I replaced the points (and pulled off the breaker plate to check
out the springs).

Both springs were there, but loose on their shafts.  I pinched one a bit so
it wasn't as loose, and sprayed some brake cleaner down around the weights
to try to remove some of the crud.

Also cleaned off the contact plate as best I could, which should hopefully
help the action of the vacuum advance.

This distributor should be rebuilt, but for now it is OK.  I put the (poor
quality) "new" points in, set the gap, and the car idles much better now,
running smooth at 6-700 RPM instead of 1100.

I suspect that a proper clean-out with new springs will help even more.
 This distributor is marked with service mark 40842 A, which appears to be
a TR4A low-compression unit?  Odd that it's identified for a 4A, since the
date code is clearly 162, pre-dating the 4A by some years.

M

On Mon, Jul 16, 2012 at 10:40 PM, Malcolm <malcolm at ipatch.ca> wrote:

> Thanks Geo.  I tried the rotor again tonight and it does return back,
> although it's not snappy like I would hope.
>
> I also ran the car with the timing light and saw that it is floating a bit
> at idle.  I've got new points to try, and I'll replace the coil, but I
> foresee a rebuild in my future.
>
> M

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Jul 17 22:59:53 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2012 21:59:53 -0700
Subject: [TR] Ignition question (and hello!)
In-Reply-To: <CAGjWObXkw=1LM+PRkqeY4L-YnDp+bP418T6y1qQC2eWZ4yVVCw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAGjWObUux1meZzEcdnPQN=i+L-11=heQX5V4V3XbbEPytQKAsw@mail.gmail.com><CANzE1bF=fxig1NEQAx7Mh+=7RDtzPnCor7sHisR3ndi6f3uWTw@mail.gmail.com><CAGjWObWWHSmbKCe3ci+Yx0cQvyJ6sjp_jzKTnqS0DuD_kvmPNg@mail.gmail.com>
	<CAGjWObXkw=1LM+PRkqeY4L-YnDp+bP418T6y1qQC2eWZ4yVVCw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <009a01cd64a2$2bd8a3f0$0601a8c0@randall>

>  This distributor is marked with service mark 40842 A, which 
> appears to be
> a TR4A low-compression unit?

I have 40842 listed for low compression TR4 (not 4A) 61-65.  It's even
listed in the TR4 section of the workshop manual.

-- Randall  

From diggle at clear.net.nz  Wed Jul 18 02:10:45 2012
From: diggle at clear.net.nz (diggle at clear.net.nz)
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2012 20:10:45 +1200
Subject: [TR] Compression Ratio
Message-ID: <50066f85.1ea.4afa.3734@clear.net.nz>

Its been a long while but I am slowly getting back into
getting my TR4 back on the road.
The engine has been recond, everything that might have been
worn was replaced, including the bearings that were in
excellent condition.
After all I thought that if I was going to all that expense
why save a few dollars.

My head needed rewelding between 2 and 3 cylinders and thus
was skimmed.
Prior to the recond it pinked if I ran anything less than 98
octane.
I have calculated the comp ratio using a burette.
My volumes are:
54.8 - 56ml in each cylinder.
Stroke 92mm
I assumed head gasket thickness 50thou
piston tops in line with the deck
Standard gasket diameter 88mm
87mm pistons
Gives me a ratio of 9.6. which I am very happy with.
Which I would not have thought would cause pinking with
96octane.
My engine reconditioner (a friend) says that it more likely
because of a tired dizzy, ie weak springs.

Jim and the stationary 1962 TR4

From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk  Wed Jul 18 02:19:12 2012
From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2012 09:19:12 +0100 (BST)
Subject: [TR] Fw: Triumf Grave yard. very depressing  **********
In-Reply-To: <1342566922.94526.YahooMailRC@web83710.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <1342566922.94526.YahooMailRC@web83710.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1342599552.27174.YahooMailNeo@web29405.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

A quick check of Google suggests this may have been / still is somewhere near
Atlanta, Georgia? There's a post from someone on the British Car Forum
speculating on what might have happened to it, so I deduce it's no longer
there? Strange to read Randall's input on RHD models also being present. If
so, were they once specially imported by aspiring owners wanting the PI
system?
 
There's a Spitfire Graveyard in the UK and I think it's somewhere
near Sheffield.
 
Jonmac

From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk  Wed Jul 18 02:36:33 2012
From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2012 09:36:33 +0100 (BST)
Subject: [TR] Keep the posts coming on a daily basis :)
Message-ID: <1342600593.78744.YahooMailNeo@web29403.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

Listers
There's an urgent need for as many Triumph posts as y'all can muster
in the coming weeks for this corner of sleepy England. I suppose I should be
as enthusiastic as so many of my fellow countrymen seem to be about the very
imminent Oh_lim_pic Games. No matter where you go, what you do, whatever you
may want to see or hear on the radio and TV - all we get is an undiluted
torrent of Oh_lim_pic Games. No doubt when they're (thankfully) over, there
will be further months of speculation and review on who / what / why so-and-so
did/didn't do whatever they did and speaking purely for myself, WGAS? 
Well, I
don't - but I suspect I'm in a very small minority.
So Triumph stuff please
and as much as all of you can generate. Doesn't matter if the old chestnuts of
dashpot oil and stuck float valves get another airing, for me it'll be far far
better than athletics, swimming, jumping, throwing spears, cycling up long
hills - and the fact that too many events were cancelled because of the
rain...
I suppose one aspect of interest is that Uncle David Cameron has seen
fit for the rooftops of certain London high rise buildings are now being
equipped with guided missiles

Jonmac

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Jul 18 06:04:23 2012
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2012 08:04:23 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Keep the posts coming on a daily basis :)
Message-ID: <db3.352cf169.3d380047@cs.com>

John, back in the 70's the US defense department determined that having 
stationary rocket launch sites made them too vulnerable to counter attack and 
so they started a program to make the launchers mobile.  Of course, uncle Ron 
killed that program.  Read into that what you may.  

The point is setting rocket launchers on roof tops is a far inferior 
solution than equipping certain road vehicles with mobile launchers.  And since 
modern electronics can interfere with the guidance systems it seems logical to 
use older vehicles such as, well, LBC's.  

Think of it.  Just as that steroid enhanced Russian Boris is about to win 
the 100 metre whatever, you rip off the left side of the tonneau and launch 
that anti-personnell device clearing the way for our Reginald to win the day! 
 Huzza!

Cameron has NO imagination.

Dave

In a message dated 7/18/2012 3:36:41 AM Central Daylight Time, 
flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk writes: 
> So Triumph stuff please
> and as much as all of you can generate. Doesn't matter if the old 
> chestnuts of
> dashpot oil and stuck float valves get another airing, for me it'll be far 
> far
> better than athletics, swimming, jumping, throwing spears, cycling up long
> hills - and the fact that too many events were cancelled because of the
> rain...
> I suppose one aspect of interest is that Uncle David Cameron has seen
> fit for the rooftops of certain London high rise buildings are now being
> equipped with guided missiles

From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk  Wed Jul 18 06:25:59 2012
From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2012 13:25:59 +0100 (BST)
Subject: [TR] Keep the posts coming on a daily basis :)
In-Reply-To: <db3.352cf169.3d380047@cs.com>
References: <db3.352cf169.3d380047@cs.com>
Message-ID: <1342614359.30224.YahooMailNeo@web29402.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

Hmm, maybe putting the rocket launchers on rooftops was the only option? It
all boils down to economics, y'see?. Putting them in LBC's (a good TR6 here
costs $20k before conversion) which is maybe less than the true mobile system
- but we just can't afford it, old chap. That's why your guys have been so
kind to our guys in Afghanistan and Iraq over the last decade by letting them
have dedicated tropical clothing, desert boots and equipment because our own
Ministry of Defence didn't have enough money (or, more likely) forgot to
provide the stuff in the first place!

John
 
PS For Triumph content, have
just heard on the lunchtime news that a bus driver collecting a newly arrived
Oh_lim_pic team from Heathrow airport got lost taking them to the Oh_lim_pic
village because the GPS in his (s-t-r-e-t-c-h-e-d Triumph Herald - read
bus) was using an out of date digital map! Once again, Team GB lurches into
the seventeenth century and the Lucas electrics are playing up (again?)
________________________________

From: "Dave1massey at cs.com"
<Dave1massey at cs.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Wednesday, 18 July
2012, 13:04
Subject: Re: [TR] Keep the posts coming on a daily basis :)
>John, back in the 70's the US defense department determined that having
>stationary rocket launch sites made them too vulnerable to counter attack and
>so they started a program to make the launchers mobile.  Of course, uncle Ron
>killed that program.  Read into that what you may.  
>
>The point is setting
rocket launchers on roof tops is a far inferior 
>solution than equipping
certain road vehicles with mobile launchers.  And since 
>modern electronics
can interfere with the guidance systems it seems logical to 
>use older
vehicles such as, well, LBC's.  
>
>Think of it.  Just as that steroid
enhanced Russian Boris is about to win 
>the 100 metre whatever, you rip off
the left side of the tonneau and launch 
>that anti-personnell device clearing
the way for our Reginald to win the day! 
>Huzza!
>
>Cameron has NO
imagination.
>
>Dave
>
>In a message dated 7/18/2012 3:36:41 AM Central
Daylight Time, 
>flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk writes: 
>> So Triumph stuff
please
>> and as much as all of you can generate. Doesn't matter if the old
>> chestnuts of
>> dashpot oil and stuck float valves get another airing, for
me it'll be far 
>> far
>> better than athletics, swimming, jumping, throwing
spears, cycling up long
>> hills - and the fact that too many events were
cancelled because of the
>> rain...
>> I suppose one aspect of interest is
that Uncle David Cameron has seen
>> fit for the rooftops of certain London
high rise buildings are now being
>> equipped with guided missiles
>
>**
triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Wed Jul 18 07:39:35 2012
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2012 06:39:35 -0700
Subject: [TR] Webers on my TR4
In-Reply-To: <CAJaD1DOvmNojmkqVAH1cO8TqU4av6jA-uYyQL-uxwkfB7Zb4Qg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJaD1DM=yZwavSpMQJuPPVMS+aVfV12CFEoG4U_mkTMxukJPRw@mail.gmail.com>
	<5005EC7B.8050902@gmail.com>
	<CAJaD1DOvmNojmkqVAH1cO8TqU4av6jA-uYyQL-uxwkfB7Zb4Qg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <5006BC97.2090104@gmail.com>

Any chance that your pulling on fuel lines might have broken the soft 
mount seal on the carb to intake manifold connection and you are getting 
an air leak  at the base of the carbs?

armchair diagnosis is a matter of WAGs.


On 7/17/12 4:55 PM, Lee&John Howard wrote:
> Good ideas.
> I never added the fuel pressure gauge because, well, it was working 
> fine without it!
.
As long as everything works a inline fuel pressure gauge is pretty 
useless.  But the second you have a problem with the engine running it 
can tell you that your fuel system down stream of the carb is working 
OK, has a problem or maybe you should walk to the nearest gas station 
with an empty container.  A fuel gauge can be a big diagnosis time saver.

TeriAnn

From leejohn7 at gmail.com  Wed Jul 18 07:50:06 2012
From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard)
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2012 06:50:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] Webers on my TR4
In-Reply-To: <5006BC97.2090104@gmail.com>
References: <CAJaD1DM=yZwavSpMQJuPPVMS+aVfV12CFEoG4U_mkTMxukJPRw@mail.gmail.com>
	<5005EC7B.8050902@gmail.com>
	<CAJaD1DOvmNojmkqVAH1cO8TqU4av6jA-uYyQL-uxwkfB7Zb4Qg@mail.gmail.com>
	<5006BC97.2090104@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAJaD1DPQxbZbbK++wyFErydXYBUhF+pDfN7Z=4xRaZVv2qTzKw@mail.gmail.com>

Now there's a horrible thought! I'll take a look; guess I can roughly test
by simply grasping the carbs and wiggling them about.


On Wed, Jul 18, 2012 at 6:39 AM, TeriAnn J. Wakeman <tjwakeman at gmail.com>wrote:

> Any chance that your pulling on fuel lines might have broken the soft
> mount seal on the carb to intake manifold connection and you are getting an
> air leak  at the base of the carbs?
>
> armchair diagnosis is a matter of WAGs.
>
>
>
> On 7/17/12 4:55 PM, Lee&John Howard wrote:
>
>> Good ideas.
>> I never added the fuel pressure gauge because, well, it was working fine
>> without it!
>>
> .
> As long as everything works a inline fuel pressure gauge is pretty
> useless.  But the second you have a problem with the engine running it can
> tell you that your fuel system down stream of the carb is working OK, has a
> problem or maybe you should walk to the nearest gas station with an empty
> container.  A fuel gauge can be a big diagnosis time saver.
>
> TeriAnn

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Wed Jul 18 08:09:34 2012
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2012 07:09:34 -0700
Subject: [TR] Webers on my TR4
In-Reply-To: <CAJaD1DPQxbZbbK++wyFErydXYBUhF+pDfN7Z=4xRaZVv2qTzKw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJaD1DM=yZwavSpMQJuPPVMS+aVfV12CFEoG4U_mkTMxukJPRw@mail.gmail.com>
	<5005EC7B.8050902@gmail.com>
	<CAJaD1DOvmNojmkqVAH1cO8TqU4av6jA-uYyQL-uxwkfB7Zb4Qg@mail.gmail.com>
	<5006BC97.2090104@gmail.com>
	<CAJaD1DPQxbZbbK++wyFErydXYBUhF+pDfN7Z=4xRaZVv2qTzKw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <5006C39E.1020602@gmail.com>

On 7/18/12 6:50 AM, Lee&John Howard wrote:
> Now there's a horrible thought! I'll take a look; guess I can roughly 
> test by simply grasping the carbs and wiggling them about.

A rough test would usually be spraying something non flammable on the 
seal area to see if the idle settles down while the liquid is blocking 
any gap. The soft mounts are supposed to allow slight movement of the carbs.

How old are your soft mounts?  The rubber seals can crack over time and 
repeated heatings.
>
>
> On Wed, Jul 18, 2012 at 6:39 AM, TeriAnn J. Wakeman 
> <tjwakeman at gmail.com <mailto:tjwakeman at gmail.com>> wrote:
>
>     Any chance that your pulling on fuel lines might have broken the
>     soft mount seal on the carb to intake manifold connection and you
>     are getting an air leak  at the base of the carbs?
>
>     armchair diagnosis is a matter of WAGs.
>
>
>
>     On 7/17/12 4:55 PM, Lee&John Howard wrote:
>
>         Good ideas.
>         I never added the fuel pressure gauge because, well, it was
>         working fine without it!
>
>     .
>     As long as everything works a inline fuel pressure gauge is pretty
>     useless.  But the second you have a problem with the engine
>     running it can tell you that your fuel system down stream of the
>     carb is working OK, has a problem or maybe you should walk to the
>     nearest gas station with an empty container.  A fuel gauge can be
>     a big diagnosis time saver.
>
>     TeriAnn

From jmitch at snet.net  Wed Jul 18 08:17:36 2012
From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell)
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2012 10:17:36 -0400
Subject: [TR] A type solenoid cover plate
Message-ID: <5006C580.2000208@snet.net>

    I have an A type OD transmission which I intend to convert my Stag 
to use.  It doesn't have a solenoid mounted and I've collected most of 
the parts I need, but I can't locate a cover plate.  It's shown in 
Rimmers catalogue but is not available.  Does anyone know where I can 
locate one, preferably in the US.  Thanks for any help.   John 
Mitchell    72 Stag   76 TR6

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Wed Jul 18 09:43:30 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2012 08:43:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Keep the posts coming on a daily basis :)
In-Reply-To: <1342600593.78744.YahooMailNeo@web29403.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
References: <1342600593.78744.YahooMailNeo@web29403.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1342626210.19250.YahooMailNeo@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

John
i feel your pain.
here in the excited states we are leading up to a general election and we are being bombarded with so much more than the Olympics.
politicians saying your a liar...uh uh no, you are...no you are...no you are......ahhhhhhhhh.
at least with Olympics you get a change of venue and participants.
like you i so look forward each day to checking my mail and seeing something car related.
can we make a pack to wander off topic until November? provided its automotive based?
;-0
Frank
 

________________________________
 From: John Macartney <flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk>
To: Triumph List <triumphs at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Wednesday, July 18, 2012 1:36 AM
Subject: [TR] Keep the posts coming on a daily basis :)
  
Listers
There's an urgent need for as many Triumph posts as y'all can muster
in the coming weeks for this corner of sleepy England. I suppose I should be
as enthusiastic as so many of my fellow countrymen seem to be about the very
imminent Oh_lim_pic Games. No matter where you go, what you do, whatever you
may want to see or hear on the radio and TV - all we get is an undiluted
torrent of Oh_lim_pic Games. No doubt when they're (thankfully) over, there
will be further months of speculation and review on who / what / why so-and-so
did/didn't do whatever they did and speaking purely for myself, WGAS? 
Well, I
don't - but I suspect I'm in a very small minority.
So Triumph stuff please
and as much as all of you can generate. Doesn't matter if the old chestnuts of
dashpot oil and stuck float valves get another airing, for me it'll be far far
better than athletics, swimming, jumping, throwing spears, cycling up long
hills - and the fact that too many events were cancelled because of the
rain...
I suppose one aspect of interest is that Uncle David Cameron has seen
fit for the rooftops of certain London high rise buildings are now being
equipped with guided missiles

Jonmac

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Wed Jul 18 10:03:35 2012
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2012 09:03:35 -0700
Subject: [TR] Ignition question (and hello!)
In-Reply-To: <CAGjWObXkw=1LM+PRkqeY4L-YnDp+bP418T6y1qQC2eWZ4yVVCw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAGjWObUux1meZzEcdnPQN=i+L-11=heQX5V4V3XbbEPytQKAsw@mail.gmail.com>
	<CANzE1bF=fxig1NEQAx7Mh+=7RDtzPnCor7sHisR3ndi6f3uWTw@mail.gmail.com>
	<CAGjWObWWHSmbKCe3ci+Yx0cQvyJ6sjp_jzKTnqS0DuD_kvmPNg@mail.gmail.com>
	<CAGjWObXkw=1LM+PRkqeY4L-YnDp+bP418T6y1qQC2eWZ4yVVCw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bHuutPX33z9Xsk3mbXVW70SH3eTtDUG3XYTm-bHnrLCOg@mail.gmail.com>

On Tue, Jul 17, 2012 at 9:18 PM, Malcolm <malcolm at ipatch.ca> wrote:

> This distributor is marked with service mark 40842 A, which appears to be
> a TR4A low-compression unit?
>


It is my understanding that the only differences among the 25D distributors
were the vacuum advances and the springs.

You may be able to make it suitable with just a spring change, but... I
think the usual vendors supply you with a bunch of springs and leave it to
you to work out which 2 are what you need (i.e. there is no packaging
marked 'TR3A springs', 'TR4 Springs', 'TR4A Springs', etc.).

There is of course equipment that can be used to set the advance curve but
since that is beyond the reach of most of us I think you can approixmate
the correct curve with some guess work, trial & error and a timing light
(with a degree dial on it).

Geo

From mhooper at indiefilmnet.com  Wed Jul 18 10:00:00 2012
From: mhooper at indiefilmnet.com (Mark Hooper)
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2012 12:00:00 -0400
Subject: [TR] Keep the posts coming on a daily basis :)
In-Reply-To: <1342600593.78744.YahooMailNeo@web29403.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8160ed83.1cd64fe.b9283b67.63d7@indiefilmnet.com>

I had to laugh upon reading your note; I have friends in London who have
escaped to Ireland for the duration of the activities. They express the same
enthusiasm as you. I recall the experience when it was hosted here in
Montreal. It was most interesting for a couple of weeks, but the 30 years of
payments and corruption investigations that followed were somewhat deflating.
I imagine that London is better organised.

By the by, viz your comment about defence systems; I understand that there are
certain zones in the Big Apple that are now equipped with some interesting
toys...

for Triumph content, be sure to correctly adjust your TRs points, or the
occasional backfire when driving may get you the attention of a jumpy C-RAM
operator hiding around the next corner.

Mark
1972 TR6

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of John Macartney
Sent: July-18-12 4:37 AM
To: Triumph List
Subject: [TR] Keep the posts coming on a daily basis :)

Listers
There's an urgent need for as many Triumph posts as y'all can muster
in the coming weeks for this corner of sleepy England. I suppose I should be
as enthusiastic as so many of my fellow countrymen seem to be about the very
imminent Oh_lim_pic Games. No matter where you go, what you do, whatever you
may want to see or hear on the radio and TV - all we get is an undiluted
torrent of Oh_lim_pic Games. No doubt when they're (thankfully) over, there
will be further months of speculation and review on who / what / why
so-and-so
did/didn't do whatever they did and speaking purely for myself, WGAS?
Well, I
don't - but I suspect I'm in a very small minority.
So Triumph stuff please
and as much as all of you can generate. Doesn't matter if the old chestnuts
of
dashpot oil and stuck float valves get another airing, for me it'll be far
far
better than athletics, swimming, jumping, throwing spears, cycling up long
hills - and the fact that too many events were cancelled because of the
rain...
I suppose one aspect of interest is that Uncle David Cameron has seen
fit for the rooftops of certain London high rise buildings are now being
equipped with guided missiles

Jonmac

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Wed Jul 18 10:10:09 2012
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2012 09:10:09 -0700
Subject: [TR] Compression Ratio
In-Reply-To: <50066f85.1ea.4afa.3734@clear.net.nz>
References: <50066f85.1ea.4afa.3734@clear.net.nz>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bEK+rPAO9czy+x=yFr_uNbvNZLysFF1c69pLd5DweXRqA@mail.gmail.com>

I would get a timing light aimed at it and see what the advance is when
things are 'all in' say around 3000 RPM -- then back the throttle down and
see at what engine speed you are getting that much advance.

BTW -- Are you using brand-name gas?  I long pooh-poohed the advantages of
brand names but due to a grocery store discount program started using Shell
rather than the no-names and found I could move from premium to regular
without any change in timing.
Geo


On Wed, Jul 18, 2012 at 1:10 AM, <diggle at clear.net.nz> wrote:

> Gives me a ratio of 9.6. which I am very happy with.
> Which I would not have thought would cause pinking with
> 96octane.
> My engine reconditioner (a friend) says that it more likely
> because of a tired dizzy, ie weak springs.

From jtnichols at comcast.net  Wed Jul 18 10:23:17 2012
From: jtnichols at comcast.net (John T Nichols)
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2012 12:23:17 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR Graveyard in Alabama
Message-ID: <5006E2F5.7070508@comcast.net>

In the late 1970s a friend who was rebuilding a TR3A in Tuscaloosa, AL 
took me with him to a farm in north Alabama where a fellow had several 
dozen TR3s/TR4s strewn about his hilly property. He allowed us to wonder 
about and pull off any parts we needed. Most of these cars had been 
damaged in accidents or fires. I have no idea anymore where exactly this 
was. However he did advertise in Hemmings in the 70s and maybe into the 
80s. I have often wondered what happened to all those cars.

John T. Nichols
'58 TR3A TS32093LO
'86 TVR 280i

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Jul 18 10:31:19 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2012 09:31:19 -0700
Subject: [TR] Ignition question (and hello!)
In-Reply-To: <CANzE1bHuutPX33z9Xsk3mbXVW70SH3eTtDUG3XYTm-bHnrLCOg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAGjWObUux1meZzEcdnPQN=i+L-11=heQX5V4V3XbbEPytQKAsw@mail.gmail.com>
	<CANzE1bF=fxig1NEQAx7Mh+=7RDtzPnCor7sHisR3ndi6f3uWTw@mail.gmail.com>
	<CAGjWObWWHSmbKCe3ci+Yx0cQvyJ6sjp_jzKTnqS0DuD_kvmPNg@mail.gmail.com>
	<CAGjWObXkw=1LM+PRkqeY4L-YnDp+bP418T6y1qQC2eWZ4yVVCw@mail.gmail.com>
	<CANzE1bHuutPX33z9Xsk3mbXVW70SH3eTtDUG3XYTm-bHnrLCOg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <01b901cd6502$c3339510$499abf30$@rr.com>

> It is my understanding that the only differences among the 25D
> distributors
> were the vacuum advances and the springs.

Also the stop that limits maximum advance.

-- Randall 

From edwd at ti.com  Wed Jul 18 10:34:46 2012
From: edwd at ti.com (Fisher, Ed)
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2012 16:34:46 +0000
Subject: [TR] Mr. Macartney said "y'all" from way over in England
Message-ID: <67A276399E247245AC2050FC103C4E8A3E317586@DLEE01.ent.ti.com>

John said, "There's an urgent need for as many Triumph posts as y'all can
muster in the coming weeks for this corner of sleepy England."  That makes my
heart proud in Texas!  Good luck over there John, hubbub of almost any variety
will wither on the vine if we can just tolerate the brief frenzies.  Of
course, here in the states we generate at least one hubbub per day if not
hour, thinly veiled as news, but strangely, they have become some sort of a
perverted entertainment source it would seem.  On a car note, my 1958 TR3A is
still waiting patiently for me to go in there and get started on it.  Sigh.
Cars are far more patient than humans.

Ed Fisher
Dallas, Tx

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Jul 18 10:39:41 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2012 09:39:41 -0700
Subject: [TR] A type solenoid cover plate
In-Reply-To: <5006C580.2000208@snet.net>
References: <5006C580.2000208@snet.net>
Message-ID: <01bd01cd6503$ee4a33c0$cade9b40$@rr.com>

>     I have an A type OD transmission which I intend to convert my Stag
> to use.  It doesn't have a solenoid mounted and I've collected most of
> the parts I need, but I can't locate a cover plate.

You're talking about just the flat cover, not the mounting plate/box, right?
Should be trivial to make something that would serve as the cover, all it
does is help keep dirt and rocks out of the area.  The TR2-6 left the
solenoid area open to the elements and rarely seem to have any problem.

-- Randall 

From dctr6 at optonline.net  Wed Jul 18 10:55:12 2012
From: dctr6 at optonline.net (Dennis Culligan)
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2012 12:55:12 -0400
Subject: [TR] Keep the posts coming on a daily basis
Message-ID: <002601cd6506$19107310$4b315930$@net>

Jonmac wrote:

>Putting them in LBC's (a good TR6 here costs $20k before conversion) which
is maybe less than the 

>true mobile system - but we just can't afford it, old chap.  

 

Jon - 

   US comedian Gallagher suggested something similar many years ago.  He
suggested that since people were cruising around the US in motor homes, the
government should strap a missile on the top of each one creating, what
else, ICBMWs (Inter-Continental Ballistic Missile Winnebagos). 

Dennis Culligan/ 1976 TR6 CF57948U/ See it on "Comedians in Cars Getting
Coffee" 9 PM Thurs. Crackle.com  

From jwalker at mainet.com  Wed Jul 18 12:24:30 2012
From: jwalker at mainet.com (John Walker)
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2012 14:24:30 -0400
Subject: [TR] Recalcitrant TR-3B Status Report
Message-ID: <5006C71E020000EF0000DFEC@smtp.mainet.com>

All,

In the spirit of responding to Jonmac's request for  TR related posts on this
site - May I make a small contribution to the validation of the well known
fact that all TR fuel problems are electrical.

After extensive trouble shooting and diagnosis of  the Recalcitrant TR-3B's
failure to start after having been running earlier in the day, I decided that
just for kicks, I would sound the fuel tank, tho I was sure it was about a
quarter full. As a result, I verified that all fuel problems are, in fact,
electrical, except when the tank is EMPTY. But this too can be considered an
electrical problem, since the fuel gauge doesn't work yet.

Good news is that the Recalcitrant TR-3B is finally legal, with plates on the
way. I actually drove it all the way to the DMV and back without incident.
Forgot what fun it was to drive, and was very pleased with the HVDA 5-speed
conversion. A nice tight, short throw tranny that was a joy to drive. The
interior is almost complete, and with any luck, I'll be participating in
Reno's "Hot August Nights" classic car celebration the 2nd week in August.

JW

TR-3B TS 68368

From dave at ranteer.com  Wed Jul 18 12:56:16 2012
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2012 13:56:16 -0500
Subject: [TR] webers on a tr3
Message-ID: <61D82CD10B1B43E7BC62008925115543@ranteer.local>

has anyone done this successfully?

I ask this because I have a beautiful set of fully restored webers that were
going on another car, and I wondered if they would not be better on the 3,
which already has a mild cam in it.

From wbeech at flash.net  Wed Jul 18 13:14:49 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2012 14:14:49 -0500
Subject: [TR] Mr. Macartney said "y'all" from way over in England
In-Reply-To: <67A276399E247245AC2050FC103C4E8A3E317586@DLEE01.ent.ti.com>
References: <67A276399E247245AC2050FC103C4E8A3E317586@DLEE01.ent.ti.com>
Message-ID: <9694C89A20B64A63879C9DD521B143FD@bboffice>

Yes, indeed he did, I caught that all the way out here in the west Texas of
Abilene.  Maybe John was raised in southern England?  Had a genteel nanny
from Beaumont?

OK, back to the TR side:  Got the 3B frame back from the sandblaster and
hurriedly sprayed on the etch primer coat.  Along with the blister raised on
my trigger finger I found and interesting crack that lead to an interesting
bend in the rail.  Everything was so nasty that I missed it beforehand.
Now, any of y'all know a good 'ol west Texas frame guy? 

Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow"
M.Andretti


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Fisher, Ed
Sent: Wednesday, July 18, 2012 11:35 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Mr. Macartney said "y'all" from way over in England

John said, "There's an urgent need for as many Triumph posts as y'all can
muster in the coming weeks for this corner of sleepy England."  That makes
my heart proud in Texas!  Good luck over there John, hubbub of almost any
variety will wither on the vine if we can just tolerate the brief frenzies.
Of course, here in the states we generate at least one hubbub per day if not
hour, thinly veiled as news, but strangely, they have become some sort of a
perverted entertainment source it would seem.  On a car note, my 1958 TR3A
is still waiting patiently for me to go in there and get started on it.
Sigh.
Cars are far more patient than humans.

Ed Fisher
Dallas, Tx

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From wbeech at flash.net  Wed Jul 18 13:46:06 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2012 14:46:06 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR Graveyard in Alabama
In-Reply-To: <5006E2F5.7070508@comcast.net>
References: <5006E2F5.7070508@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <F8D7CBDADD104530AE7D81F1BEF762C5@bboffice>

Interestingly, Andrew Uprichard just put me in touch with probably this guy.
Marv Gruber in Florence, AL, he has a TR graveyard and has been re-building
TRs for 40 years.

Bill

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John T Nichols
Sent: Wednesday, July 18, 2012 11:23 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR Graveyard in Alabama

In the late 1970s a friend who was rebuilding a TR3A in Tuscaloosa, AL took
me with him to a farm in north Alabama where a fellow had several dozen
TR3s/TR4s strewn about his hilly property. He allowed us to wonder about and
pull off any parts we needed. Most of these cars had been damaged in
accidents or fires. I have no idea anymore where exactly this was. However
he did advertise in Hemmings in the 70s and maybe into the 80s. I have often
wondered what happened to all those cars.

John T. Nichols
'58 TR3A TS32093LO
'86 TVR 280i

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From Dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Jul 18 13:50:37 2012
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2012 15:50:37 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Mr. Macartney said "y'all" from way over in England
Message-ID: <aa2f.6c081382.3d386d8d@cs.com>

Don't falter yourself.  Jonmac probably thinks all Americans say y'all in 
the same way we think all Brits wear bowler hats and use walking canes.

TR content:  My TR3 is running.  In fact I drove it to a local show on 
Easter.  Still needs an interior and front chrome.  But it also needs the front 
fenders aligned so the bonnet will close.

But all the electrical stuff works.  All of it.  But then it better since I 
fancy myself as rather clever on that front.

Anybody wanna swap a TR3 front bumper for a TR3A front bumper?

Dave

In a message dated 7/18/2012 2:15:07 PM Central Daylight Time, 
wbeech at flash.net writes: 
> Yes, indeed he did, I caught that all the way out here in the west Texas 
> of
> Abilene.  Maybe John was raised in southern England?  Had a genteel nanny
> from Beaumont?

From davewillner at pa.net  Wed Jul 18 14:20:05 2012
From: davewillner at pa.net (davewillner)
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2012 16:20:05 -0400
Subject: [TR] Standard Triumph period or OEM lighter
Message-ID: <ACF1C8AE55E44B4CBCF06ABBF44DBB41@valued9cfc0b6f>

I misplaced the photo I had of an original Standard Triumph lighter, does
anyone have a picture than can send...one appropriate for a TR3.  Thanks

Dave Willner
Stroudsburg PA
59 TR3A
70 MGB
70 BSA 441 VS
Sometimes its better to travel than to arrive...

From mathews at uga.edu  Wed Jul 18 15:34:43 2012
From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews)
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2012 17:34:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] Stolen Healey
Message-ID: <50072BF3.6070507@uga.edu>

Pretty fascinating if you ask me!

http://www.wsbradio.com/videos/news/national/man-finds-car-stolen-40-years-ago-on-ebay/vcn9g/

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Wed Jul 18 16:49:29 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2012 15:49:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Mr. Macartney said "y'all" from way over in England
In-Reply-To: <aa2f.6c081382.3d386d8d@cs.com>
References: <aa2f.6c081382.3d386d8d@cs.com>
Message-ID: <1342651769.36233.YahooMailNeo@web120205.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

John dun visited us already.
he knows 
just ax him
Frank
________________________________
 From: "Dave1massey at cs.com"
<Dave1massey at cs.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Wednesday, July 18,
2012 12:50 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Mr. Macartney said "y'all" from way over in
England
  
Don't falter yourself.  Jonmac probably thinks all Americans say
y'all in 
the same way we think all Brits wear bowler hats and use walking
canes.

TR content:  My TR3 is running.  In fact I drove it to a local show on
Easter.  Still needs an interior and front chrome.  But it also needs the
front 
fenders aligned so the bonnet will close.

But all the electrical stuff
works.  All of it.  But then it better since I 
fancy myself as rather clever
on that front.

Anybody wanna swap a TR3 front bumper for a TR3A front bumper?
Dave

In a message dated 7/18/2012 2:15:07 PM Central Daylight Time,
wbeech at flash.net writes: 
> Yes, indeed he did, I caught that all the way out
here in the west Texas 
> of
> Abilene.  Maybe John was raised in southern
England?  Had a genteel nanny
> from Beaumont?

** triumphs at autox.team.net **
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From cliff_hansen at earthlink.net  Wed Jul 18 17:15:04 2012
From: cliff_hansen at earthlink.net (Cliff Hansen)
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2012 17:15:04 -0600
Subject: [TR] Mr. Macartney said "y'all" from way over in England
In-Reply-To: <67A276399E247245AC2050FC103C4E8A3E317586@DLEE01.ent.ti.com>
References: <67A276399E247245AC2050FC103C4E8A3E317586@DLEE01.ent.ti.com>
Message-ID: <8EC92E79AE734626B3F6E8DFA82B9D4F@Shemp>

In the Virginia/North Carolina dialect in which I was once schooled, correct 
grammar would be "all y'all."  Not sure that Texans make that distinction. 
Natives of my current city of residence don't understand either case.

Cliff
Albuquerque, NM

-----Original Message----- 
From: Fisher, Ed
Sent: Wednesday, July 18, 2012 10:34 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Mr. Macartney said "y'all" from way over in England

John said, "There's an urgent need for as many Triumph posts as y'all can
muster in the coming weeks for this corner of sleepy England."  That makes 
my
heart proud in Texas!  Good luck over there John, hubbub of almost any 
variety
will wither on the vine if we can just tolerate the brief frenzies.  Of
course, here in the states we generate at least one hubbub per day if not
hour, thinly veiled as news, but strangely, they have become some sort of a
perverted entertainment source it would seem.  On a car note, my 1958 TR3A 
is
still waiting patiently for me to go in there and get started on it.  Sigh.
Cars are far more patient than humans.

Ed Fisher
Dallas, Tx

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From Dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Jul 18 17:34:45 2012
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2012 19:34:45 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Mr. Macartney said "y'all" from way over in England
Message-ID: <6cff2.8c0c5f2.3d38a215@cs.com>

No way!  He might tell me that not everybody wears a bowler hat.

In a message dated 7/18/2012 5:49:31 PM Central Daylight Time, 
yellowtr3 at yahoo.com writes: 
> John dun visited us already.
> he knows 
> just ax him

From wbeech at flash.net  Wed Jul 18 18:08:28 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2012 19:08:28 -0500
Subject: [TR] Mr. Macartney said "y'all" from way over in England
In-Reply-To: <8EC92E79AE734626B3F6E8DFA82B9D4F@Shemp>
References: <67A276399E247245AC2050FC103C4E8A3E317586@DLEE01.ent.ti.com>
	<8EC92E79AE734626B3F6E8DFA82B9D4F@Shemp>
Message-ID: <2A871377-8641-447B-BDAD-1B4E14CD7145@flash.net>

Grew up in Virginia, 40 years now in Texas.   "All y'all" is the plural for
"Y'all"

 Bill

Sent from mobile Bill

On Jul 18, 2012, at 6:15 PM, "Cliff Hansen" <cliff_hansen at earthlink.net>
wrote:

> In the Virginia/North Carolina dialect in which I was once schooled, correct
grammar would be "all y'all."  Not sure that Texans make that distinction.
Natives of my current city of residence don't understand either case.
>
> Cliff
> Albuquerque, NM
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Fisher, Ed
> Sent: Wednesday, July 18, 2012 10:34 AM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] Mr. Macartney said "y'all" from way over in England
>
> John said, "There's an urgent need for as many Triumph posts as y'all can
> muster in the coming weeks for this corner of sleepy England."  That makes
my
> heart proud in Texas!  Good luck over there John, hubbub of almost any
variety
> will wither on the vine if we can just tolerate the brief frenzies.  Of
> course, here in the states we generate at least one hubbub per day if not
> hour, thinly veiled as news, but strangely, they have become some sort of a
> perverted entertainment source it would seem.  On a car note, my 1958 TR3A
is
> still waiting patiently for me to go in there and get started on it.  Sigh.
> Cars are far more patient than humans.
>
> Ed Fisher
> Dallas, Tx
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From cliff_hansen at earthlink.net  Wed Jul 18 19:25:21 2012
From: cliff_hansen at earthlink.net (Cliff Hansen)
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2012 19:25:21 -0600
Subject: [TR] Mr. Macartney said "y'all" from way over in England
In-Reply-To: <2A871377-8641-447B-BDAD-1B4E14CD7145@flash.net>
References: <67A276399E247245AC2050FC103C4E8A3E317586@DLEE01.ent.ti.com>
	<8EC92E79AE734626B3F6E8DFA82B9D4F@Shemp>
	<2A871377-8641-447B-BDAD-1B4E14CD7145@flash.net>
Message-ID: <3CFFD3BAE36E45408540751A9AC12B6C@Shemp>

My point exactly.

All y'all have a great evening now.

Cliff


-----Original Message----- 
From: Wbeech
Sent: Wednesday, July 18, 2012 6:08 PM
To: Cliff Hansen
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Mr. Macartney said "y'all" from way over in England

Grew up in Virginia, 40 years now in Texas.   "All y'all" is the plural for 
"Y'all"

Bill

Sent from mobile Bill

On Jul 18, 2012, at 6:15 PM, "Cliff Hansen" <cliff_hansen at earthlink.net> 
wrote:

> In the Virginia/North Carolina dialect in which I was once schooled, 
> correct grammar would be "all y'all."  Not sure that Texans make that 
> distinction. Natives of my current city of residence don't understand 
> either case.
>
> Cliff
> Albuquerque, NM
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Fisher, Ed
> Sent: Wednesday, July 18, 2012 10:34 AM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] Mr. Macartney said "y'all" from way over in England
>
> John said, "There's an urgent need for as many Triumph posts as y'all can
> muster in the coming weeks for this corner of sleepy England."  That makes 
> my
> heart proud in Texas!  Good luck over there John, hubbub of almost any 
> variety
> will wither on the vine if we can just tolerate the brief frenzies.  Of
> course, here in the states we generate at least one hubbub per day if not
> hour, thinly veiled as news, but strangely, they have become some sort of 
> a
> perverted entertainment source it would seem.  On a car note, my 1958 TR3A 
> is
> still waiting patiently for me to go in there and get started on it. 
> Sigh.
> Cars are far more patient than humans.
>
> Ed Fisher
> Dallas, Tx
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cliff_hansen at earthlink.net
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>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net 

From zoboherald at aol.com  Wed Jul 18 19:37:00 2012
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace)
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2012 21:37:00 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Standard Triumph period or OEM lighter
In-Reply-To: <ACF1C8AE55E44B4CBCF06ABBF44DBB41@valued9cfc0b6f>
References: <ACF1C8AE55E44B4CBCF06ABBF44DBB41@valued9cfc0b6f>
Message-ID: <8CF33661FF0BBD5-1050-1DAF2@webmail-m044.sysops.aol.com>

If you're referring to a car sold new in the US, chances are it would've been
a Casco lighter such as used in many American cars at the time. That's what my
'60 3A had when I bought it in 1972; it was nicely fitted into the dash about
where the optional OD switch would've been otherwise. In retrospect, that
seems an odd spot to put it, since the car also had the optional ashtray under
the dash, but....

Sorry I don't have a picture, and the car was sold on a few years ago.


--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us



-----Original Message-----
From: davewillner <davewillner at pa.net>


I misplaced the photo I had of an original Standard Triumph lighter, does
anyone have a picture than can send...one appropriate for a TR3.  Thanks

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Thu Jul 19 07:13:09 2012
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2012 06:13:09 -0700
Subject: [TR] webers on a tr3
In-Reply-To: <61D82CD10B1B43E7BC62008925115543@ranteer.local>
References: <61D82CD10B1B43E7BC62008925115543@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <500807E5.5000101@gmail.com>

On 7/18/12 11:56 AM, Dave wrote:
> has anyone done this successfully?
Done what successfully? If you are asking if anyone has a TR3 with Weber 
DCOEs the answer is yes.  On the other hand the stock SUs work really 
good on the TR engines.

www.tr3a.info/WeberDCOEinfo.htm

TeriAnn
>
> I ask this because I have a beautiful set of fully restored webers that were
> going on another car, and I wondered if they would not be better on the 3,
> which already has a mild cam in it.
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From wbeech at flash.net  Thu Jul 19 08:11:37 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2012 09:11:37 -0500
Subject: [TR] webers on a tr3
In-Reply-To: <500807E5.5000101@gmail.com>
References: <61D82CD10B1B43E7BC62008925115543@ranteer.local>
	<500807E5.5000101@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <F7AA14C38E424AE7A0C9FC1D20B76481@bboffice>

A pretty exhaustive study indeed, thanks for sharing.

BTW, what does DCOE stand for? (yes, I am an SU guy)

Bill

 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TeriAnn J. Wakeman
Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2012 8:13 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] webers on a tr3

On 7/18/12 11:56 AM, Dave wrote:
> has anyone done this successfully?
Done what successfully? If you are asking if anyone has a TR3 with Weber
DCOEs the answer is yes.  On the other hand the stock SUs work really good
on the TR engines.

www.tr3a.info/WeberDCOEinfo.htm

TeriAnn
>
> I ask this because I have a beautiful set of fully restored webers 
> that were going on another car, and I wondered if they would not be 
> better on the 3, which already has a mild cam in it.
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tjwakeman at gmail.com

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From mark at bradakis.com  Thu Jul 19 12:50:23 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2012 12:50:23 -0600
Subject: [TR] webers on a tr3
In-Reply-To: <F7AA14C38E424AE7A0C9FC1D20B76481@bboffice>
References: <61D82CD10B1B43E7BC62008925115543@ranteer.local>
	<500807E5.5000101@gmail.com>
	<F7AA14C38E424AE7A0C9FC1D20B76481@bboffice>
Message-ID: <500856EF.6050108@bradakis.com>

Wbeech wrote:
> A pretty exhaustive study indeed, thanks for sharing.
>
> BTW, what does DCOE stand for? (yes, I am an SU guy)
>
>
It is actually in Italian, oddly enough, but a basic translation is
dual choke 'orizontal

mjb.

From timipurdy at citlink.net  Thu Jul 19 13:02:18 2012
From: timipurdy at citlink.net (Tim Purdy)
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2012 12:02:18 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 bonnet & hinges
Message-ID: <83610FAF-A016-43C5-BA34-78408CDD0540@citlink.net>

I am moving forward to repairing the Triumph TR4 1964. I inquired awhile that
I am looking for a new bonnet and hinges. Just thought I would inquire again,
if anyone knows where I might find one. I recall someone mentioned I think it
was Donato Motors might have one. Your guidance, and assistance, is truly
appreciated as usual.

Tim Purdy

From leejohn7 at gmail.com  Thu Jul 19 13:02:56 2012
From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard)
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2012 12:02:56 -0700
Subject: [TR] Webers on my TR4
In-Reply-To: <5006C39E.1020602@gmail.com>
References: <CAJaD1DM=yZwavSpMQJuPPVMS+aVfV12CFEoG4U_mkTMxukJPRw@mail.gmail.com>
	<5005EC7B.8050902@gmail.com>
	<CAJaD1DOvmNojmkqVAH1cO8TqU4av6jA-uYyQL-uxwkfB7Zb4Qg@mail.gmail.com>
	<5006BC97.2090104@gmail.com>
	<CAJaD1DPQxbZbbK++wyFErydXYBUhF+pDfN7Z=4xRaZVv2qTzKw@mail.gmail.com>
	<5006C39E.1020602@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAJaD1DMyLqoV5Qg+0GL8s28anFsXm50mKR7XN5PcdzEqk+-xmw@mail.gmail.com>

Well, friends - it was the condenser! Thank you  TeriAnn.
Well at least I know now the pump is good, and the Webers good and clean.
And reacquainted myself with the jets etc.

Thanks for everyone's help.

John

On Wed, Jul 18, 2012 at 7:09 AM, TeriAnn J. Wakeman <tjwakeman at gmail.com>wrote:

>  On 7/18/12 6:50 AM, Lee&John Howard wrote:
>
> Now there's a horrible thought! I'll take a look; guess I can roughly test
> by simply grasping the carbs and wiggling them about.
>
>
> A rough test would usually be spraying something non flammable on the seal
> area to see if the idle settles down while the liquid is blocking any gap.
> The soft mounts are supposed to allow slight movement of the carbs.
>
> How old are your soft mounts?  The rubber seals can crack over time and
> repeated heatings.
>
>
>
> On Wed, Jul 18, 2012 at 6:39 AM, TeriAnn J. Wakeman <tjwakeman at gmail.com>wrote:
>
>> Any chance that your pulling on fuel lines might have broken the soft
>> mount seal on the carb to intake manifold connection and you are getting an
>> air leak  at the base of the carbs?
>>
>> armchair diagnosis is a matter of WAGs.
>>
>>
>>
>> On 7/17/12 4:55 PM, Lee&John Howard wrote:
>>
>>> Good ideas.
>>> I never added the fuel pressure gauge because, well, it was working fine
>>> without it!
>>>
>>  .
>> As long as everything works a inline fuel pressure gauge is pretty
>> useless.  But the second you have a problem with the engine running it can
>> tell you that your fuel system down stream of the carb is working OK, has a
>> problem or maybe you should walk to the nearest gas station with an empty
>> container.  A fuel gauge can be a big diagnosis time saver.
>>
>> TeriAnn

From dave at ranteer.com  Thu Jul 19 15:10:49 2012
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2012 16:10:49 -0500
Subject: [TR] sad story
Message-ID: <E023D743B2FE4E6A920DD61E0F8F89FB@ranteer.local>

A couple of weeks ago I purchased an overdrive tranny on ebay.  The price was
really good b that should have been my first clue.  He showed  a picture of
the car, not the tranny.  Should have been my second clue.



I did a buy it now, and then asked him if I could have the driveshaft and
overdrive switch as well, to which he agreed, for an additional $65.  Weeks
went by, and finally the tranny (only the tranny) arrived.  he claimed the
driveshaft was the short shaft, part of the tranny, and that it was included.
Lots of email back and forth, and ultimately a complaint on my part to paypal,
since that was outside of the ebay sale.  To which he finally agreend to
return my money, only he sent me the money, not as a refund, so I lost the fee
paypal charges.



The transmission, which was advertised as rebuit 500 miles ago, was not.  the
input shaft was wobbly, and my British car mechanic, who certainly knows
these, said there was no way it had been rebuilt in the last 500 miles.  So I
complained to him, and he offered to return my money if I sent back the
transmission.  I felt he had totally lied to me, and I didnbt trust him, so
I complained to ebay.  They opened a case, and agreed to refund only my
initial money, if I returned the transmission with a confirmation of delivery.
So I did.



Then I discovered that ebay considers confirmation of delivery valid ONLY if
there is a signature.  Which we didnbt have.  So ebay welched, this guy
welched, and Ibm out $550 for the initial deal and another $150 for
shipping.  And a few bucks for the paypal mishap.



The ebay item is: 330744461508



The guys addresses are:

address on invoice is:

DB Business Holdings

372 E Third Street

Corning, N.Y. 14830



address on crate is:

Jason Doughty

2475 Brown Hollow Road

Corning, N.Y. 14830

607-346-3605



And the guys email address is dbbizholdings at gmail.com



His ebay id is db_vintageas



If you google DB Business Holdings you will see it is more of a
shipping/warehouse company.



I now see he has relisted it and will rip off someone else.



DO NOT DO BUSINESS WITH THIS GUY!!!!!

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Thu Jul 19 15:48:40 2012
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2012 14:48:40 -0700
Subject: [TR] sad story
In-Reply-To: <E023D743B2FE4E6A920DD61E0F8F89FB@ranteer.local>
References: <E023D743B2FE4E6A920DD61E0F8F89FB@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bGL7zGV_qZ_8awWdKV1DBGxpmNfmPsqBLx-65yDAXMZiw@mail.gmail.com>

That stinks -- you should certainly keep after ebay as the guy obviously
got the thing back as he has relisted it.  Looks like he changed the
description a bit though, it now says:

*This Sale is for a transmission from a 1973 Triumph Spitfire It was
brought in with a claimed less than 500 mile on rebuild. It will need to be
cleaned up and shaft has slight play to it (about 1/16" movement).*
**
Good luck.

Geo



On Thu, Jul 19, 2012 at 2:10 PM, Dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:

> A couple of weeks ago I purchased an overdrive tranny on ebay.  The price
> was
> really good b  that should have been my first clue.  He showed  a picture
> of
> the car, not the tranny.  Should have been my second clue....

From wbeech at flash.net  Thu Jul 19 17:47:22 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2012 18:47:22 -0500
Subject: [TR] sad story
In-Reply-To: <CANzE1bGL7zGV_qZ_8awWdKV1DBGxpmNfmPsqBLx-65yDAXMZiw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <E023D743B2FE4E6A920DD61E0F8F89FB@ranteer.local>
	<CANzE1bGL7zGV_qZ_8awWdKV1DBGxpmNfmPsqBLx-65yDAXMZiw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <D83096C345CD4ABF8E79A7EC86682D3E@bboffice>

Dave,
I had one experience with eBay and rip-off refund, they really make you jump
through the hoops.  I would keep badgering eBay/Paypal about your refund.
You can always cite the fact that he now has it re-listed as proof of
delivery.

I WILL keep his name on file for the future.

Bill 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Geo Hahn
Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2012 4:49 PM
To: Dave
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net; mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] sad story

That stinks -- you should certainly keep after ebay as the guy obviously got
the thing back as he has relisted it.  Looks like he changed the description
a bit though, it now says:

*This Sale is for a transmission from a 1973 Triumph Spitfire It was brought
in with a claimed less than 500 mile on rebuild. It will need to be cleaned
up and shaft has slight play to it (about 1/16" movement).*
**
Good luck.

Geo



On Thu, Jul 19, 2012 at 2:10 PM, Dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:

> A couple of weeks ago I purchased an overdrive tranny on ebay.  The 
> price was really good b  that should have been my first clue.  He 
> showed  a picture of the car, not the tranny.  Should have been my 
> second clue....

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Thu Jul 19 19:16:46 2012
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2012 21:16:46 -0400
Subject: [TR] sad story
In-Reply-To: <D83096C345CD4ABF8E79A7EC86682D3E@bboffice>
References: <E023D743B2FE4E6A920DD61E0F8F89FB@ranteer.local>
	<CANzE1bGL7zGV_qZ_8awWdKV1DBGxpmNfmPsqBLx-65yDAXMZiw@mail.gmail.com>
	<D83096C345CD4ABF8E79A7EC86682D3E@bboffice>
Message-ID: <CANhzkeNiOxPDorm7nMcUsLJ6d_eS=_Y2DitM=-VXB6Hf+n11sQ@mail.gmail.com>

Well.... we could see if enough folks on the list can complain to ebay to
make a difference.  I'm in!
On Jul 19, 2012 7:48 PM, "Wbeech" <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:

> Dave,
> I had one experience with eBay and rip-off refund, they really make you
> jump
> through the hoops.  I would keep badgering eBay/Paypal about your refund.
> You can always cite the fact that he now has it re-listed as proof of
> delivery.
>
> I WILL keep his name on file for the future.
>
> Bill
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Geo Hahn
> Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2012 4:49 PM
> To: Dave
> Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net; mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] sad story
>
> That stinks -- you should certainly keep after ebay as the guy obviously
> got
> the thing back as he has relisted it.  Looks like he changed the
> description
> a bit though, it now says:
>
> *This Sale is for a transmission from a 1973 Triumph Spitfire It was
> brought
> in with a claimed less than 500 mile on rebuild. It will need to be cleaned
> up and shaft has slight play to it (about 1/16" movement).*
> **
> Good luck.
>
> Geo
>
>
>
> On Thu, Jul 19, 2012 at 2:10 PM, Dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:
>
> > A couple of weeks ago I purchased an overdrive tranny on ebay.  The
> > price was really good b  that should have been my first clue.  He
> > showed  a picture of the car, not the tranny.  Should have been my
> > second clue....
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ccsimonsen at gmail.com

From rbhendricks at me.com  Thu Jul 19 19:47:13 2012
From: rbhendricks at me.com (Robert Hendricks)
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2012 19:47:13 -0600
Subject: [TR] Spitfire queston
Message-ID: <C102AC32-06D4-46E5-9E10-E7B38F3F124D@me.com>

Just completing a restoration of a 72 Spitfire.  Purchased new grommet's for the spedo and tach.  How do you get them over the large ends of the cables without tearing them.?

Bob Hendricks

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Thu Jul 19 19:54:00 2012
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2012 18:54:00 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] fitting top
Message-ID: <1342749240.81487.YahooMailNeo@web65510.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

Initially fitting top on my tr-3 and I have some concerns maybe someone who's
recently done it can help me with.

It seems the bars on the top frame aren't
really lining up with the seams on the top; if I stretch the frame out to its
full length.  Starting from the rear the first bar fits on its seam an inch or
so above the rear window.  However the next forward bar lands about 4 inches
in front of the seam, if I'm looking at things correctly.  If I pull this bar
back to fit it's seam then the front of the frame sticks up at a strange
angle.
I should clarify that the seams I'm talking about don't run completely
across the top but just up the side edge of the top.  I'm wondering if things
will come out ok once I install snaps and stretch it over the frame. 
Everything so far is just loose fitting to see how it looks.
It might be
helpful if someone would be willing to measure the distance between bars front
to back on they're car.

Just wondering if others have had similar experiences
and how did they come out?

thanks

From wbeech at flash.net  Thu Jul 19 19:59:04 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2012 20:59:04 -0500
Subject: [TR] sad story
In-Reply-To: <CANhzkeNiOxPDorm7nMcUsLJ6d_eS=_Y2DitM=-VXB6Hf+n11sQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <E023D743B2FE4E6A920DD61E0F8F89FB@ranteer.local><CANzE1bGL7zGV_qZ_8awWdKV1DBGxpmNfmPsqBLx-65yDAXMZiw@mail.gmail.com><D83096C345CD4ABF8E79A7EC86682D3E@bboffice>
	<CANhzkeNiOxPDorm7nMcUsLJ6d_eS=_Y2DitM=-VXB6Hf+n11sQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <0F6531BE720C4BFA8A65F5CA90DCE34E@bboffice>

I'm very in, anyone have a good contact phone or email address?
 
Bill

  _____  

From: Chris Simo [mailto:ccsimonsen at gmail.com] 
Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2012 8:17 PM
To: Wbeech
Cc: Dave; mgs at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net; Geo Hahn
Subject: Re: [TR] sad story



Well.... we could see if enough folks on the list can complain to ebay to
make a difference.  I'm in!

On Jul 19, 2012 7:48 PM, "Wbeech" <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:


Dave,
I had one experience with eBay and rip-off refund, they really make you jump
through the hoops.  I would keep badgering eBay/Paypal about your refund.
You can always cite the fact that he now has it re-listed as proof of
delivery.

I WILL keep his name on file for the future.

Bill

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Geo Hahn
Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2012 4:49 PM
To: Dave
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net; mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] sad story

That stinks -- you should certainly keep after ebay as the guy obviously got
the thing back as he has relisted it.  Looks like he changed the description
a bit though, it now says:

*This Sale is for a transmission from a 1973 Triumph Spitfire It was brought
in with a claimed less than 500 mile on rebuild. It will need to be cleaned
up and shaft has slight play to it (about 1/16" movement).*
**
Good luck.

Geo



On Thu, Jul 19, 2012 at 2:10 PM, Dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:

> A couple of weeks ago I purchased an overdrive tranny on ebay.  The
> price was really good b  that should have been my first clue.  He
> showed  a picture of the car, not the tranny.  Should have been my
> second clue....

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Thu Jul 19 20:16:10 2012
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2012 19:16:10 -0700
Subject: [TR] fitting top
In-Reply-To: <1342749240.81487.YahooMailNeo@web65510.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <1342749240.81487.YahooMailNeo@web65510.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bEmrNWxULrokNJ1Qp4sYEX=mcskyCQYEamnyfMfMA3HJw@mail.gmail.com>

On Thu, Jul 19, 2012 at 6:54 PM, Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg at yahoo.com> wrote:

> It might be
> helpful if someone would be willing to measure the distance between bars
> front
> to back on they're car.
>


You might compare your spacing with the measurements that came with the
instructions for installing my top some years ago:

http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/top-webbing.GIF

But I wouldn't take those measurements as gospel -- as I recall I used them
as a starting point but made adjustments.

One challenge here is that  front bow may pull down and move forward a bit
as the top is tightened, changing its position quite a bit from its
'relaxed' setting.

Geo

From aribertn at gmail.com  Thu Jul 19 20:19:18 2012
From: aribertn at gmail.com (aribert neumann)
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2012 22:19:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] Trans shifting issues - links to gear pics - how bad is too
 bad?
Message-ID: <CAGkVM2_Quk3N6BuU_n9v_efHb6Yw7o9+zu3JS6=y=EW7sQUrwA@mail.gmail.com>

Greeting all

The trans in my Spit bodied GT6 has some issues.  I have to pause (about 1
sec) on a first to second gear upshift.  Downshifting from third to second
and second to first are also difficult.  THe 2nd to 1st downshift needed to
take place when the car was slowed down to less than 10 mph.  Gear clash
ensued if I shifted too fast.   Since I have the trans out to replace a
slipping clutch, I figured to have another look at it (I had the trans
apart 20,000 miles ago - in Spring of '04).

In the past 8 years,  I aquired a NOS 1st gear and 1-2 shift hub
asm.  Second gear was the elusive NLA part but looking at Rimmers web
catalog today, they now have them in stock.    Also when I refreshed the
trans in '04, I did not replace the synchros - I measured the gap between
the original synchros and the mating gears - all were well above 0.030 gap
so I reused them.   Since there had been the bad batch of synchros sometime
in the '90s, I was concerned that all of the marginal parts were not used
up.  Now I am going to use the synchros that I bought in '04.

I was thinking that the engagement teeth on the synchros and the matching
engagement teeth on the shift hub and the 1st and 2nd gears were the cause
of the shifting problem.  I was expecting to see more wear when comparing
old parts to new.  Synchro on first gear:
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll272/aribert/Triumph/1stgearsynchro.jpg
Synchro on 2nd gear:
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll272/aribert/Triumph/2ndgearsynchro.jpg
First gear, worn gear is on the right:
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll272/aribert/Triumph/firstgearnewold.jpg
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll272/aribert/Triumph/firstgear2.jpg
Shift hub, both sides appear to have very similar wear, worn hub is on the
left:
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll272/aribert/Triumph/1-2shifthub.jpg
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll272/aribert/Triumph/1-2shifthub-1.jpg  And
finally 2nd gear:
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll272/aribert/Triumph/secondgear.jpg
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll272/aribert/Triumph/secondgear2.jpg

So for those of you who have trans rebuild experience - does the wear on
the matching engagement teeth look like it would be enough to cause
shifting difficulties?

BTW, I did all the bushing / spacer feeler checks last time and will be
doing them once again.

And a final note - yes I could learn to double clutch but I'm a lazy
shifter (even though all 5 of the vehicles in our family fleet are manuals).

From dave at ranteer.com  Thu Jul 19 20:46:28 2012
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2012 21:46:28 -0500
Subject: [TR] sad story
In-Reply-To: <0F6531BE720C4BFA8A65F5CA90DCE34E@bboffice>
References: <E023D743B2FE4E6A920DD61E0F8F89FB@ranteer.local><CANzE1bGL7zGV_qZ_8awWdKV1DBGxpmNfmPsqBLx-65yDAXMZiw@mail.gmail.com><D83096C345CD4ABF8E79A7EC86682D3E@bboffice>
	<CANhzkeNiOxPDorm7nMcUsLJ6d_eS=_Y2DitM=-VXB6Hf+n11sQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<0F6531BE720C4BFA8A65F5CA90DCE34E@bboffice>
Message-ID: <37E77316251142E4A3CB51FBA75383C5@ranteer.local>

address on invoice is:

DB Business Holdings

372 E Third Street

Corning, N.Y. 14830



address on crate is:

Jason Doughty

2475 Brown Hollow Road

Corning, N.Y. 14830

607-346-3605



And the guys email address is dbbizholdings at gmail.com


From: Wbeech
Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2012 8:59 PM
To: 'Chris Simo'
Cc: 'Dave' ; mgs at autox.team.net ; triumphs at autox.team.net ; 'Geo Hahn'
Subject: RE: [TR] sad story

I'm very in, anyone have a good contact phone or email address?

Bill

From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com  Thu Jul 19 21:07:51 2012
From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad)
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2012 20:07:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] sad story
In-Reply-To: <E023D743B2FE4E6A920DD61E0F8F89FB@ranteer.local>
References: <E023D743B2FE4E6A920DD61E0F8F89FB@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <1342753671.88982.YahooMailNeo@web120705.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

I have had very bad luck with Evilbay and its supposed  protection services. 
They are great until you file a claim, then they vanish.
 
I have written off
their services.
 
Chad
 

________________________________
 From: Dave
<dave at ranteer.com>
To: Triumph 6 Pack <6pack at autox.team.net> 
Cc:
triumphs at autox.team.net; mgs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2012
4:10 PM
Subject: [TR] sad story
  
A couple of weeks ago I purchased an
overdrive tranny on ebay.  The price was
really good b that should have been
my first clue.  He showed  a picture of
the car, not the tranny.  Should have
been my second clue.



I did a buy it now, and then asked him if I could have
the driveshaft and
overdrive switch as well, to which he agreed, for an
additional $65.  Weeks
went by, and finally the tranny (only the tranny)
arrived.  he claimed the
driveshaft was the short shaft, part of the tranny,
and that it was included.
Lots of email back and forth, and ultimately a
complaint on my part to paypal,
since that was outside of the ebay sale.  To
which he finally agreend to
return my money, only he sent me the money, not as
a refund, so I lost the fee
paypal charges.



The transmission, which was
advertised as rebuit 500 miles ago, was not.  the
input shaft was wobbly, and
my British car mechanic, who certainly knows
these, said there was no way it
had been rebuilt in the last 500 miles.  So I
complained to him, and he
offered to return my money if I sent back the
transmission.  I felt he had
totally lied to me, and I didnbt trust him, so
I complained to ebay.  They
opened a case, and agreed to refund only my
initial money, if I returned the
transmission with a confirmation of delivery.
So I did.



Then I discovered
that ebay considers confirmation of delivery valid ONLY if
there is a
signature.  Which we didnbt have.  So ebay welched, this guy
welched, and Ibm
out $550 for the initial deal and another $150 for
shipping.  And a few bucks
for the paypal mishap.



The ebay item is: 330744461508



The guys addresses
are:

address on invoice is:

DB Business Holdings

372 E Third Street
Corning, N.Y. 14830



address on crate is:

Jason Doughty

2475 Brown Hollow
Road

Corning, N.Y. 14830

607-346-3605



And the guys email address is
dbbizholdings at gmail.com



His ebay id is db_vintageas



If you google DB
Business Holdings you will see it is more of a
shipping/warehouse company.
I now see he has relisted it and will rip off someone else.



DO NOT DO
BUSINESS WITH THIS GUY!!!!!

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From dave at ranteer.com  Thu Jul 19 21:11:12 2012
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2012 22:11:12 -0500
Subject: [TR] sad story
In-Reply-To: <0F6531BE720C4BFA8A65F5CA90DCE34E@bboffice>
References: <E023D743B2FE4E6A920DD61E0F8F89FB@ranteer.local><CANzE1bGL7zGV_qZ_8awWdKV1DBGxpmNfmPsqBLx-65yDAXMZiw@mail.gmail.com><D83096C345CD4ABF8E79A7EC86682D3E@bboffice>
	<CANhzkeNiOxPDorm7nMcUsLJ6d_eS=_Y2DitM=-VXB6Hf+n11sQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<0F6531BE720C4BFA8A65F5CA90DCE34E@bboffice>
Message-ID: <1FF184B501DC4941A1533E09127C60A5@ranteer.local>

sorry.  misread.  ebay phone # is 866-877-3229.  they will ask for a code;
just ignore that.  when I called, I had a code.

you have to go through a lot of steps to get that code.  I think you can call
without one but I have not done that so I cannot say for sure.



From: Wbeech
Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2012 8:59 PM
To: 'Chris Simo'
Cc: 'Dave' ; mgs at autox.team.net ; triumphs at autox.team.net ; 'Geo Hahn'
Subject: RE: [TR] sad story

I'm very in, anyone have a good contact phone or email address?

Bill

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Jul 19 22:17:29 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2012 21:17:29 -0700
Subject: [TR] Trans shifting issues - links to gear pics - how bad is
 too bad?
In-Reply-To: <CAGkVM2_Quk3N6BuU_n9v_efHb6Yw7o9+zu3JS6=y=EW7sQUrwA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAGkVM2_Quk3N6BuU_n9v_efHb6Yw7o9+zu3JS6=y=EW7sQUrwA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <02cc01cd662e$944d8710$0601a8c0@randall>

> So for those of you who have trans rebuild experience - does 
> the wear on
> the matching engagement teeth look like it would be enough to cause
> shifting difficulties?

My experience with gearbox rebuilds is (very) limited to the TR3/TR6 units;
but those parts look OK to me.  Given that you are having problems, I might
roughen up the cone surface just a bit (break the glaze).

> BTW, I did all the bushing / spacer feeler checks last time 
> and will be
> doing them once again.

You didn't mention checking the detent force in the shift hub.  Very
important (it is what applies force to the synchro rings during the shift)
and almost always too low.

-- Randall  

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Jul 19 22:19:46 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2012 21:19:46 -0700
Subject: [TR] Spitfire queston
In-Reply-To: <C102AC32-06D4-46E5-9E10-E7B38F3F124D@me.com>
References: <C102AC32-06D4-46E5-9E10-E7B38F3F124D@me.com>
Message-ID: <02cd01cd662e$e5cd7af0$0601a8c0@randall>

> Just completing a restoration of a 72 Spitfire.  Purchased 
> new grommet's for the spedo and tach.  How do you get them 
> over the large ends of the cables without tearing them.?

Why not pull them over the small end?  On my TR3, I find that, with a
generous coating of silicone spray, they will usually pull over the small
end without damage.  I don't think there is any way they would go over the
big end.

-- Randall  

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Fri Jul 20 07:05:06 2012
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2012 06:05:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] fitting top
In-Reply-To: <1342749240.81487.YahooMailNeo@web65510.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <1342749240.81487.YahooMailNeo@web65510.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <50095782.6050903@gmail.com>

On 7/19/12 6:54 PM, Gary Nafziger wrote:
> It seems the bars on the top frame aren't
> really lining up with the seams on the top;
The very first thing to do in that case is to verify that your hood 
sticks are in the right location when they are erected.

www.tr3a.info/sticks.htm

TeriAnn

From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk  Fri Jul 20 07:37:44 2012
From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2012 14:37:44 +0100 (BST)
Subject: [TR] Standard Triumph period or OEM lighter
In-Reply-To: <ACF1C8AE55E44B4CBCF06ABBF44DBB41@valued9cfc0b6f>
References: <ACF1C8AE55E44B4CBCF06ABBF44DBB41@valued9cfc0b6f>
Message-ID: <1342791464.35265.YahooMailNeo@web29402.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

Go to http://www.vintagecarparts.co.uk/ and type CA1408 B into the search box.
That will show you an enlargeable image of a Lucas cigar lighter element (and
heater unit)that was used by Standard-Triumph as an approved accessory from
about 1950 to 1980. Whether that same unit was sold in the States by US
dealers is another matter - but if you want 'originality' the item referenced
here is the one to go for. As I recall the cigarette/cigar image soon wore off
after use, so if this one does the same it'll be really authentic!

Jonmac
________________________________
 From: davewillner <davewillner at pa.net>
To:
triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Wednesday, 18 July 2012, 21:20
Subject: [TR]
Standard Triumph period or OEM lighter


>I misplaced the photo I had of an
original Standard Triumph lighter, does
>anyone have a picture than can
send...one appropriate for a TR3.  Thanks
>
>Dave Willner
>Stroudsburg PA
>59
TR3A
>70 MGB
>70 BSA 441 VS
>Sometimes its better to travel than to arrive...
>
>** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Fri Jul 20 08:42:29 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2012 07:42:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] sad story
In-Reply-To: <CANhzkeNiOxPDorm7nMcUsLJ6d_eS=_Y2DitM=-VXB6Hf+n11sQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <E023D743B2FE4E6A920DD61E0F8F89FB@ranteer.local>
	<CANzE1bGL7zGV_qZ_8awWdKV1DBGxpmNfmPsqBLx-65yDAXMZiw@mail.gmail.com>
	<D83096C345CD4ABF8E79A7EC86682D3E@bboffice>
	<CANhzkeNiOxPDorm7nMcUsLJ6d_eS=_Y2DitM=-VXB6Hf+n11sQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1342795349.4055.YahooMailNeo@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

i complained directly to the guy selling it by using the "ask seller a
question" button
lets all hit him up
Frank
 

________________________________
From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen at gmail.com>
To: Wbeech <wbeech at flash.net> 
Cc:
triumphs at autox.team.net; mgs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2012
6:16 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] sad story
  
Well.... we could see if enough folks
on the list can complain to ebay to
make a difference.  I'm in!
On Jul 19,
2012 7:48 PM, "Wbeech" <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:

> Dave,
> I had one
experience with eBay and rip-off refund, they really make you
> jump
> through
the hoops.  I would keep badgering eBay/Paypal about your refund.
> You can
always cite the fact that he now has it re-listed as proof of
> delivery.
>
>
I WILL keep his name on file for the future.
>
> Bill
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
>
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Geo Hahn
> Sent:
Thursday, July 19, 2012 4:49 PM
> To: Dave
> Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net;
mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] sad story
>
> That stinks -- you should
certainly keep after ebay as the guy obviously
> got
> the thing back as he
has relisted it.  Looks like he changed the
> description
> a bit though, it
now says:
>
> *This Sale is for a transmission from a 1973 Triumph Spitfire It
was
> brought
> in with a claimed less than 500 mile on rebuild. It will need
to be cleaned
> up and shaft has slight play to it (about 1/16" movement).*
>
**
> Good luck.
>
> Geo
>
>
>
> On Thu, Jul 19, 2012 at 2:10 PM, Dave
<dave at ranteer.com> wrote:
>
> > A couple of weeks ago I purchased an overdrive
tranny on ebay.  The
> > price was really good b  that should have been my
first clue.  He
> > showed  a picture of the car, not the tranny.  Should have
been my
> > second clue....
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net
>
> **
triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
Unsubscribe/Manage:
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ccsimonsen at gmail.com

**
triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Fri Jul 20 10:23:03 2012
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2012 09:23:03 -0700
Subject: [TR] sad story
In-Reply-To: <1342795349.4055.YahooMailNeo@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <E023D743B2FE4E6A920DD61E0F8F89FB@ranteer.local>
	<CANzE1bGL7zGV_qZ_8awWdKV1DBGxpmNfmPsqBLx-65yDAXMZiw@mail.gmail.com>
	<D83096C345CD4ABF8E79A7EC86682D3E@bboffice>
	<CANhzkeNiOxPDorm7nMcUsLJ6d_eS=_Y2DitM=-VXB6Hf+n11sQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<1342795349.4055.YahooMailNeo@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bEpoANofaPufoOpDJffpqfibB_KvisR=-jbSuWN8iTrFg@mail.gmail.com>

I see that he has now pulled the re-listing, perhaps that is a good sign.

Geo

On Fri, Jul 20, 2012 at 7:42 AM, Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com> wrote:

> i complained directly to the guy selling it by using the "ask seller a
> question" button
> lets all hit him up
> Frank

From dave at ranteer.com  Fri Jul 20 12:47:51 2012
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2012 13:47:51 -0500
Subject: [TR] sad story
In-Reply-To: <CANzE1bEpoANofaPufoOpDJffpqfibB_KvisR=-jbSuWN8iTrFg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <E023D743B2FE4E6A920DD61E0F8F89FB@ranteer.local><CANzE1bGL7zGV_qZ_8awWdKV1DBGxpmNfmPsqBLx-65yDAXMZiw@mail.gmail.com><D83096C345CD4ABF8E79A7EC86682D3E@bboffice><CANhzkeNiOxPDorm7nMcUsLJ6d_eS=_Y2DitM=-VXB6Hf+n11sQ@mail.gmail.com><1342795349.4055.YahooMailNeo@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<CANzE1bEpoANofaPufoOpDJffpqfibB_KvisR=-jbSuWN8iTrFg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <94593912C2DF49428C696AD91C4E61E3@ranteer.local>

amazingly enough, and many thanks to the people who reminded him of his 
duty, a refund has been issued from his account to me.  its pending until 
the 25th, but I think it will clear.

thanks again to you all!!!!

-----Original Message----- 
From: Geo Hahn
Sent: Friday, July 20, 2012 11:23 AM
To: Frank Fisher
Cc: Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] sad story

I see that he has now pulled the re-listing, perhaps that is a good sign.

Geo

On Fri, Jul 20, 2012 at 7:42 AM, Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com> wrote:

> i complained directly to the guy selling it by using the "ask seller a
> question" button
> lets all hit him up
> Frank 

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Fri Jul 20 18:59:33 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2012 17:59:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] sad story
In-Reply-To: <94593912C2DF49428C696AD91C4E61E3@ranteer.local>
References: <E023D743B2FE4E6A920DD61E0F8F89FB@ranteer.local><CANzE1bGL7zGV_qZ_8awWdKV1DBGxpmNfmPsqBLx-65yDAXMZiw@mail.gmail.com><D83096C345CD4ABF8E79A7EC86682D3E@bboffice><CANhzkeNiOxPDorm7nMcUsLJ6d_eS=_Y2DitM=-VXB6Hf+n11sQ@mail.gmail.com><1342795349.4055.YahooMailNeo@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<CANzE1bEpoANofaPufoOpDJffpqfibB_KvisR=-jbSuWN8iTrFg@mail.gmail.com>
	<94593912C2DF49428C696AD91C4E61E3@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <1342832373.73338.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

good guys do win
nice


________________________________
From: Dave
<dave at ranteer.com>
To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 20, 2012 11:47 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] sad story

amazingly
enough, and many thanks to the people who reminded him of his duty, a refund
has been issued from his account to me.  its pending until the 25th, but I
think it will clear.

thanks again to you all!!!!

-----Original Message-----
From: Geo Hahn
Sent: Friday, July 20, 2012 11:23 AM
To: Frank Fisher
Cc:
Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] sad story

I see that he has now pulled the
re-listing, perhaps that is a good sign.

Geo

On Fri, Jul 20, 2012 at 7:42
AM, Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com> wrote:

> i complained directly to the
guy selling it by using the "ask seller a
> question" button
> lets all hit
him up
> Frank 

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From aribertn at gmail.com  Fri Jul 20 20:01:46 2012
From: aribertn at gmail.com (aribert neumann)
Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2012 22:01:46 -0400
Subject: [TR] Rimmer Bros - question about shipping charges to US
Message-ID: <CAGkVM294OD5h3bJLOz01KKQpFDVDYYBeq229E7es9wH5YS1efQ@mail.gmail.com>

Greetings:

For those of you who have ordered small parts from Rimmer Brothers - do
they offer a slower, discounted shipping via Royal Mail to the US?  I am
considering buying a trans gear from them but I really do not need it in
two or three days if I can save some money.  RImmers was aprox $50 +
shipping).  I also checked at TRF (NLS), SpitBits (not available), BPNW (no
listings for individual internal trans parts)  & Vicky Brit ($99 +
shipping).  I figure that all the parts combined that I am considering
buying would easily fit in a modest size shoe box and weigh less than 10
lbs.

From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com  Fri Jul 20 20:12:57 2012
From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad)
Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2012 19:12:57 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Rimmer Bros - question about shipping charges to US
In-Reply-To: <CAGkVM294OD5h3bJLOz01KKQpFDVDYYBeq229E7es9wH5YS1efQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAGkVM294OD5h3bJLOz01KKQpFDVDYYBeq229E7es9wH5YS1efQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1342836777.22116.YahooMailNeo@web120703.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

It seems to me that 2 pounds is the break point for UK - US shipments.  From
there up, the price goes astronomical.
 
I can't figure out why their postal
costs are so high.  I don't recall them having "slow" service.
 
Chad in Tulsa
________________________________
 From: aribert neumann <aribertn at gmail.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Friday, July 20, 2012 9:01 PM
Subject: [TR]
Rimmer Bros - question about shipping charges to US
  
Greetings:

For those
of you who have ordered small parts from Rimmer Brothers - do
they offer a
slower, discounted shipping via Royal Mail to the US?  I am
considering buying
a trans gear from them but I really do not need it in
two or three days if I
can save some money.  RImmers was aprox $50 +
shipping).  I also checked at
TRF (NLS), SpitBits (not available), BPNW (no
listings for individual internal
trans parts)  & Vicky Brit ($99 +
shipping).  I figure that all the parts
combined that I am considering
buying would easily fit in a modest size shoe
box and weigh less than 10
lbs.

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Fri Jul 20 20:24:51 2012
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2012 19:24:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] follow up fitting top
Message-ID: <1342837491.13905.YahooMailNeo@web65509.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

Thanks for all the suggestions and help concerning my top problem.  The main
problem I found was that I hadn't completely extended the front bar on the top
frame.  It had been stuck until I finally got it pushed forward in it's proper
place and everything is much closer to fitting.  I can see now that it'll take
some fiddling to get the webs screwed down properly which affects the spacing
of the frame bars.
Thanks again to those who sent information and spacing
measurements.

gary n.

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Fri Jul 20 20:50:02 2012
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2012 22:50:02 -0400
Subject: [TR] follow up fitting top
In-Reply-To: <1342837491.13905.YahooMailNeo@web65509.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <1342837491.13905.YahooMailNeo@web65509.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CANhzkeNvBTuPgc4v9YBn7dLRogvojSbZRA6WFS1oT9Np_pSa7g@mail.gmail.com>

For me i have a buddy in the uk (whom i forcibly  deported) that stays with
us 2 or 3 times a year...
On Jul 20, 2012 10:25 PM, "Gary Nafziger" <nafzigerg at yahoo.com> wrote:

> Thanks for all the suggestions and help concerning my top problem.  The
> main
> problem I found was that I hadn't completely extended the front bar on the
> top
> frame.  It had been stuck until I finally got it pushed forward in it's
> proper
> place and everything is much closer to fitting.  I can see now that it'll
> take
> some fiddling to get the webs screwed down properly which affects the
> spacing
> of the frame bars.
> Thanks again to those who sent information and spacing
> measurements.
>
> gary n.
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ccsimonsen at gmail.com

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Jul 21 01:08:07 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2012 00:08:07 -0700
Subject: [TR] Rimmer Bros - question about shipping charges to US
In-Reply-To: <CAGkVM294OD5h3bJLOz01KKQpFDVDYYBeq229E7es9wH5YS1efQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAGkVM294OD5h3bJLOz01KKQpFDVDYYBeq229E7es9wH5YS1efQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <03de01cd670f$94f95130$0601a8c0@randall>

> For those of you who have ordered small parts from Rimmer 
> Brothers - do
> they offer a slower, discounted shipping via Royal Mail to 
> the US? 

When I asked a few years ago, they flat refused to ship by any means other
than airmail.  IIRC, Royal Mail will only handle packages under 2kg (4.4
pounds); anything larger has to go through ParcelForce.

When I talked another UK vendor into sending by ParcelForce economy
(surface), the package disappeared for about 3 weeks and then got returned
to them.  No refunds, I wound up paying for delivery twice in order to get
my parts.

-- Randall  

From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk  Sat Jul 21 04:09:30 2012
From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2012 11:09:30 +0100 (BST)
Subject: [TR] Rimmer Bros - question about shipping charges to US
In-Reply-To: <03de01cd670f$94f95130$0601a8c0@randall>
References: <CAGkVM294OD5h3bJLOz01KKQpFDVDYYBeq229E7es9wH5YS1efQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<03de01cd670f$94f95130$0601a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <1342865370.50569.YahooMailNeo@web29402.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

Randall wrote:
When I talked another UK vendor into sending by ParcelForce
economy
(surface), the package disappeared for about 3 weeks and then got
returned
to them.  
 
Which perhaps goes some way to explaining why that
august organisation is known in the UK as ParcelFarce............?
 
Jonmac

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Sat Jul 21 07:03:04 2012
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2012 09:03:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] Part help request for our charity car
Message-ID: <CANhzkeNCch4LEYMO3CrLhztvqVqrJMo2JUP=eewrma9K=bt98g@mail.gmail.com>

The Triumph Club of the Carolinas is working with others to build a Tr6 to
raffle off to benefit Wheels for Hope of Raleigh  and also benefit the
widow of a local mechanic.

We are very close and are lacking only a few parts. We could use donations
for a   Oil Pressure gauge late style chrome outer bezel/black inner bezel,
needles point up and nice chrome bumpers (or parts of) as the ones we have
are pitted and have a few dings.

The oil pressure guage is the only show stopper at this time.

If you want to see some pics of progress email me and I'll send them to you.

Thanks!

Chris Simonsen

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Sat Jul 21 14:08:27 2012
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2012 13:08:27 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] CA Brit Car Shows
Message-ID: <1342901307.33776.YahooMailNeo@web180906.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

     Sunday is the Ventura British car show. I am debating whether to do the
two and a half hour drive to get there...
     The Queen's English car show at
Woodley Park was sort of rained out last March. There used to be a British car
show at Stanford park in Palo Alto. Do they still have some sort of car show
there?
     Is there another SoCal British car show this summer or fall?
    
TIA


     -Bill in Tehachapi

From kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Sat Jul 21 14:37:58 2012
From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer)
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2012 13:37:58 -0700
Subject: [TR] CA Brit Car Shows
In-Reply-To: <1342901307.33776.YahooMailNeo@web180906.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1342901307.33776.YahooMailNeo@web180906.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <006001cd6780$b73c0050$25b400f0$@net>

Hi Bill,
The All British Meet in Palo Alto is no more. The autumn Classic that was in
Morgan Hill the last few years was also discontinued although I've heard
that Bill Hyland of On The Road Again Classics is planning on doing it
again. If it happens, that would be in the fall. 

The only British show in the area that I know of is the Hayward meet, but
that already happened. The Woodland meet also already happened,  that's east
of the Bay area, closer to Sacramento. 
Bob

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer
Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2012 1:08 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] CA Brit Car Shows

     Sunday is the Ventura British car show. I am debating whether to do the
two and a half hour drive to get there...
     The Queen's English car show at
Woodley Park was sort of rained out last March. There used to be a British
car show at Stanford park in Palo Alto. Do they still have some sort of car
show there?
     Is there another SoCal British car show this summer or fall?
    
TIA


     -Bill in Tehachapi

** triumphs at autox.team.net ** 

From wbeech at flash.net  Sat Jul 21 15:28:04 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2012 16:28:04 -0500
Subject: [TR] CA Brit Car Shows
In-Reply-To: <006001cd6780$b73c0050$25b400f0$@net>
References: <1342901307.33776.YahooMailNeo@web180906.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<006001cd6780$b73c0050$25b400f0$@net>
Message-ID: <F649DA88F1A7459999B89BCCC86C3130@bboffice>

Don't forget the Danville d'Elegance on September 15-16.
http://www.danville-delegance.org/

Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow"
M.Andretti
 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kinderlehrer
Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2012 3:38 PM
To: 'William Brewer'; 'Triumphs'
Subject: Re: [TR] CA Brit Car Shows

Hi Bill,
The All British Meet in Palo Alto is no more. The autumn Classic that was in
Morgan Hill the last few years was also discontinued although I've heard
that Bill Hyland of On The Road Again Classics is planning on doing it
again. If it happens, that would be in the fall. 

The only British show in the area that I know of is the Hayward meet, but
that already happened. The Woodland meet also already happened,  that's east
of the Bay area, closer to Sacramento. 
Bob

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer
Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2012 1:08 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] CA Brit Car Shows

     Sunday is the Ventura British car show. I am debating whether to do the
two and a half hour drive to get there...
     The Queen's English car show at
Woodley Park was sort of rained out last March. There used to be a British
car show at Stanford park in Palo Alto. Do they still have some sort of car
show there?
     Is there another SoCal British car show this summer or fall?
    
TIA


     -Bill in Tehachapi

** triumphs at autox.team.net ** 

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From jwbakerjr at verizon.net  Sat Jul 21 15:52:51 2012
From: jwbakerjr at verizon.net (jwbakerjr at verizon.net)
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2012 17:52:51 -0400
Subject: [TR] Copart Auto Auction TR3
Message-ID: <9D9167C3100848358A933E44131F5D90@JamesPC>

Does anyone have any knowledge about the car listed below.

http://www.copart.com/c2/homeSearch.html?_eventId=getLot&execution=e1s1&lotId
=20661422&returnPage=SEARCH_RESULTS

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Jul 22 07:50:06 2012
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2012 09:50:06 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 Diff
Message-ID: <528d.3da4b864.3d3d5f0d@cs.com>

A fellow club member has this differential from a TR6 and was wondering if 
it was a Quaife.  I've never actually seen a Quaife so I can't help him.

TIA

Dave

http://www.sltoa.org/members/houghtaling/images/Differential.jpg

From tony at tonydrews.com  Sun Jul 22 08:31:44 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2012 09:31:44 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 Diff
In-Reply-To: <528d.3da4b864.3d3d5f0d@cs.com>
References: <528d.3da4b864.3d3d5f0d@cs.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.17.1342967365.2450.triumphs@autox.team.net>

It's a Detroit Locker limited slip diff.  Rare as hens teeth!

Tony Drews

At 08:50 AM 7/22/2012, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote:
>A fellow club member has this differential from a TR6 and was wondering if
>it was a Quaife.  I've never actually seen a Quaife so I can't help him.
>
>TIA
>
>Dave
>
>http://www.sltoa.org/members/houghtaling/images/Differential.jpg

From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca  Sun Jul 22 16:14:15 2012
From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (amcewen2 at cogeco.ca)
Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2012 18:14:15 -0400
Subject: [TR] Selling my TR3A
Message-ID: <500c7b37.249.3703.9829@cogeco.ca>

Bid early & Bid often ;)

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/150861673487?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

More photos on my dropbox site...

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/s7whksy43n715t8/77sWBnqJE5

From ashleys at farmside.co.nz  Mon Jul 23 04:00:10 2012
From: ashleys at farmside.co.nz (ashleys)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2012 22:00:10 +1200
Subject: [TR] TR3B for sale in NZ
Message-ID: <113B5D0FF94C44BABC9D135A0DD6B897@AshleysPC>

Hi!,  I have my TR3B for sale on www.trademe.co.nz  listing no   495666217.
The only one in NZ

Thanks
Ashley

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Jul 23 05:49:40 2012
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2012 07:49:40 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 Diff
Message-ID: <1df37.32bdc3bf.3d3e9454@cs.com>

Thanks.  I'll pass it along.

Dave

In a message dated 7/22/2012 10:31:48 AM Central Daylight Time, 
tony at tonydrews.com writes: 
> It's a Detroit Locker limited slip diff.  Rare as hens teeth!

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Mon Jul 23 07:49:01 2012
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2012 13:49:01 +0000
Subject: [TR] Media blasting?
In-Reply-To: <1df37.32bdc3bf.3d3e9454@cs.com>
References: <1df37.32bdc3bf.3d3e9454@cs.com>
Message-ID: <BLU162-W15C8EC473D3E55E77E4935E5DD0@phx.gbl>

Hi List,

Does anyone know of any do it yourself media blasting equipment?  Has anyone
done any DIY media blasting?  Thanks.

Best regards,

Tom

From JPayne at ThorCon.net  Mon Jul 23 08:44:34 2012
From: JPayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2012 14:44:34 +0000
Subject: [TR] Media blasting?
In-Reply-To: <BLU162-W15C8EC473D3E55E77E4935E5DD0@phx.gbl>
References: <1df37.32bdc3bf.3d3e9454@cs.com>
	<BLU162-W15C8EC473D3E55E77E4935E5DD0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <5891B364A7C3594B9466304B59E65B1C2D2F4E5E@ex1mbx01.onthenetoffice.com>

I have a blast cabinet from harbor freight that works just fine, for small
stuff (up to the size of a wire wheel)  although their media is pricy.

As to big stuff, make sure you have a lot of space, far away from your house
and proper gear to keep it off you.

Soda blasting is all the rage, but all I can comment on is what a mess it
makes.

I sent my last project (AH 3000) to a specialist and had it back in 4 days for
$800 - money well spent.


Jonas Payne
PBR
Cell:   (702) 358-5084

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of tom white
Sent: Monday, July 23, 2012 6:49 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Media blasting?

Hi List,

Does anyone know of any do it yourself media blasting equipment?  Has anyone
done any DIY media blasting?  Thanks.

Best regards,

Tom

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From wbeech at flash.net  Mon Jul 23 10:14:25 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2012 11:14:25 -0500
Subject: [TR] Media blasting?
In-Reply-To: <5891B364A7C3594B9466304B59E65B1C2D2F4E5E@ex1mbx01.onthenetoffice.com>
References: <1df37.32bdc3bf.3d3e9454@cs.com><BLU162-W15C8EC473D3E55E77E4935E5DD0@phx.gbl>
	<5891B364A7C3594B9466304B59E65B1C2D2F4E5E@ex1mbx01.onthenetoffice.com>
Message-ID: <3A68EC276936438C93332748E3091165@bboffice>

I have a nice cabinet that came from Eastwood, I think it was about $300.
It is molded plastic, very thick and sturdy and no leaks.   The only mod I
made was to add some extra lighting as the single bulb was not enough for my
old eyes.  I use the glass beads from HF, does a great job.

I agree with Jonas, why invest in the gear for the big job that you will
only use once or twice.  I just had my TR3 frame sandblasted, $180.00.  By
contrast, I use the cabinet all the time for all the little rusted bits on
the restoration, tools and garage sale finds.

NFI,
Bill

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jonas Payne
Sent: Monday, July 23, 2012 9:45 AM
To: 'tom white'; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Media blasting?

I have a blast cabinet from harbor freight that works just fine, for small
stuff (up to the size of a wire wheel)  although their media is pricy.

As to big stuff, make sure you have a lot of space, far away from your house
and proper gear to keep it off you.

Soda blasting is all the rage, but all I can comment on is what a mess it
makes.

I sent my last project (AH 3000) to a specialist and had it back in 4 days
for $800 - money well spent.


Jonas Payne
PBR
Cell:   (702) 358-5084

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of tom white
Sent: Monday, July 23, 2012 6:49 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Media blasting?

Hi List,

Does anyone know of any do it yourself media blasting equipment?  Has anyone
done any DIY media blasting?  Thanks.

Best regards,

Tom

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jul 23 11:45:16 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2012 10:45:16 -0700
Subject: [TR] Media blasting?
In-Reply-To: <BLU162-W15C8EC473D3E55E77E4935E5DD0@phx.gbl>
References: <1df37.32bdc3bf.3d3e9454@cs.com>
	<BLU162-W15C8EC473D3E55E77E4935E5DD0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <063f01cd68fa$ec371d00$c4a55700$@rr.com>

> Does anyone know of any do it yourself media blasting equipment?  Has
> anyone
> done any DIY media blasting?

I also have one of the small cabinets from HF.  I wouldn't call it "fine",
but it does work more or less.  The gloves rotted out in a couple of years
and had to be replaced.  The replacements (also from HF) appear to be much
better quality, but I had to fashion a joint between them and the cuffs that
attach to the cabinet.  I had to add a light (18" fluorescent tube) in the
top as it didn't come with one.  The pressure hose to the gun also started
to rot and has been replaced.  The original gun was such a POS that I
replaced it as well, with one I got from JC Whitney some 30 years ago.

Takes a huge compressor to keep it running; my old single stage 20 gallon
"2.5hp" unit would only hold 90 psi for a minute or so, barely enough to get
started before I had to stop and wait for it to catch up.  I now use a
two-stage "7hp" compressor that lets me blast as long as I want.

When I finally get tired of nursing this little cabinet along, I'll probably
just build my own larger one from plywood.  Lots of plans on the Internet.
One pointer is to use some sort of cheap plastic sheet on the inside of the
window, so it can be easily replaced when it gets too cloudy.

Blasting without a cabinet makes a huge mess, I wouldn't recommend it inside
the city limits.  If you can hang up the parts and put a big sheet (plastic
or linen) underneath, you can capture some of the media for reuse, but
you'll still lose a lot, which will wind up on top of everything downwind.

-- Randall 

From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com  Mon Jul 23 12:32:03 2012
From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (Brian Induni)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2012 11:32:03 -0700
Subject: [TR] Media blasting?
Message-ID: <006701cd6901$7533b860$5f9b2920$@roadrunner.com>

Tom,
I would advise you to not bother trying to blast the car yourself. The cost
of the equipment - the small HF blaster isn't going to cut it, and a "real"
blaster is going to take huge amounts of air - the mess, and the time are
all good reasons to have it blasted by a pro. I pay, on average, for a
British sports car (MG, Triumph TR, AH, etc) around $250 - 300 for the
entire car. That is the frame, body tub, fenders, doors, wheels, and every
other bit I can get lose. I don't ever have the hood (bonnet) sand blasted
as it will wrap - this from experience! Either chem strip those or have it
soda blasted.

I do have a small DIY blaster I bought at Sears a long, long time ago. It's
fine for the misc bit that I forgot to take to the blaster or something
needs a touch up. I once tried to blast an engine bay of my first TR3 when I
was in high school, and after an entire weekend of shooting sand, then the
next 3 days digging it out of areas that don't often see the light of day, I
vowed to always have it done by a pro.

My guess is the Stag I have to do next will be more money as it is
significantly larger than the other cars, but I think it is money well spent
to have a car down to bare metal to work with. Rust is easier to fix, paint
sticks better, and the final results is spectacular! 

This is, of course, just my humble opinion.

~ Brian

------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2012 13:49:01 +0000
From: tom white <tswhitez123 at hotmail.com>
To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Media blasting?
Message-ID: <BLU162-W15C8EC473D3E55E77E4935E5DD0 at phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Hi List,

Does anyone know of any do it yourself media blasting equipment?  Has anyone
done any DIY media blasting?  Thanks.

Best regards,

Tom

From aljlthomson at charter.net  Mon Jul 23 14:10:48 2012
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2012 16:10:48 -0400
Subject: [TR] Media blasting?
In-Reply-To: <BLU162-W15C8EC473D3E55E77E4935E5DD0@phx.gbl>
References: <1df37.32bdc3bf.3d3e9454@cs.com>
	<BLU162-W15C8EC473D3E55E77E4935E5DD0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <000f01cd690f$66628150$332783f0$@charter.net>

Tom - I use a ALC suction style sandblasting unit for farm equipment
restoration and other related tasks. The tank holds about 50 lbs. of sand
and the unit requires at least a 5 h.p. compressor. I'm talking of a 5 h.p.,
1800 rpm compressor, not one of those "5" h.p. units that have a 3600 rpm
motor with a tiny 56 size frame. First, I will say that the novelty of sand
blasting wears off very quickly! Even with a hood that has its own forced
air supply, you have to expect sand to end up everywhere! Speaking of which,
you definitely need an air supplied hood or mask. Studies indicate that
inhaling lots of silica particles is not good for one's health. I usually
buy 100 lb. bags of medium sand blast sand for about $10/bag from a masonry
supply wholesaler. Also, it is slow. Cleaning the outside of a cast iron
wood burning stove might take the better part of an hour. If you have lots
of flaky rust, that must be chipped off first. I don't have a blast cabinet
for small parts, but that might nice to have down the road. Sand blasting
small parts in a New England winter outside just doesn't work.  Also
remember, once a steel/iron object is sand blasted, it will begin to show a
film of surface rust in just hours if it is a muggy day. Be sure to close
all open windows in the area if you are blasting in the open. I'm assuming
you have a good size property that will insulate your neighbors from the
sound and dust. Others have suggested hiring out the job - that's what I
have done on big projects. Have we scared you off yet?

Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of tom white
Sent: Monday, July 23, 2012 9:49 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Media blasting?

Hi List,

Does anyone know of any do it yourself media blasting equipment?  Has anyone
done any DIY media blasting?  Thanks.

Best regards,

Tom

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Mon Jul 23 15:20:15 2012
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2012 14:20:15 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] sand blasting
Message-ID: <1343078415.68424.YahooMailNeo@web65509.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

I purchased a kit from TIP......a company in ohio.  You could google that and
find they're site i'm sure.  The kit includes a hardened lense, gloves, and I
think the gun as well as milar to cover the inside of the lense (window) so
you don't blast the window glass.  the milar is removable when it gets cloudy
and then you peel it off and replace.  The gun is good quality as well as the
gloves.  I've not replaced anything in the 7-8 years I've had it (except gun
nozzles which is normal)  


Included in the kit are directions for building
the plywood cabinet which is pretty easy to do if your handy with wood work. 
Mine  is a floor model on legs and probably 4 feet wide and 2 feet in depth. 
INDISPENSABLE..........if your doing a restoration.  It's amazing how well
this cleans things up for painting. 


It's also capable of changing media. 
Easy to drain from the bottom into a 5 gallon bucket and I change to glass
beads for fine work.  


Just check out they're site and get they're
catalogue.......loads of helpful information there.  I have no interest in the
company.......just found them very helpful.

gary n.

From pat.l at comcast.net  Mon Jul 23 17:50:30 2012
From: pat.l at comcast.net (Pat Ledford)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2012 19:50:30 -0400
Subject: [TR] sand blasting
In-Reply-To: <1343078415.68424.YahooMailNeo@web65509.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <1343078415.68424.YahooMailNeo@web65509.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <500DE346.7030800@comcast.net>

It's http://www.tptools.com

As I live close and they are my first stop.  Prices are better than 
Eastwood but slower shipping.  Their warehouse sale after fall Hersey is 
great.

Get their catalog, more items than on the web site.

Pat Ledford

On 7/23/2012 5:20 PM, Gary Nafziger wrote:
> I purchased a kit from TIP......a company in ohio.  You could google that and
> find they're site i'm sure.  The kit includes a hardened lense, gloves, and I
> think the gun as well as milar to cover the inside of the lense (window) so
> you don't blast the window glass.  the milar is removable when it gets cloudy
> and then you peel it off and replace.  The gun is good quality as well as the
> gloves.  I've not replaced anything in the 7-8 years I've had it (except gun
> nozzles which is normal)
>
>
> Included in the kit are directions for building
> the plywood cabinet which is pretty easy to do if your handy with wood work.
> Mine  is a floor model on legs and probably 4 feet wide and 2 feet in depth.
> INDISPENSABLE..........if your doing a restoration.  It's amazing how well
> this cleans things up for painting.
>
>
> It's also capable of changing media.
> Easy to drain from the bottom into a 5 gallon bucket and I change to glass
> beads for fine work.
>
>
> Just check out they're site and get they're
> catalogue.......loads of helpful information there.  I have no interest in the
> company.......just found them very helpful.
>
> gary n.
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pat.l at comcast.net

From dconnitt at fuse.net  Mon Jul 23 18:05:11 2012
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2012 20:05:11 -0400
Subject: [TR] Media Blasting
Message-ID: <C373123526974340BF86BF8848FEC130@DaveLaptop>

I have a HF floor model (has legs) that works pretty well. My gloves rotted
too and I could use a new piece of tempered glass but it has served me well.
The gun failed to but I bought a replacement from TP Tools in Northern Ohio
that I have had for several years now and still have the original carbide tip
in it. I think the part number was SP-25 or something like that. You can get
orifices based upon the size of your compressor which is nice too. I can run
at 90 psi all day long. Granted it doesn't clean as fast as a larger orifice
but I would rather blast that wait. TP Tools also sells a really nice vacumn
system for blast cabinets that I picked up also. All in all not a bad system.
Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A
http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a

From levilevi at comcast.net  Mon Jul 23 18:09:01 2012
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2012 18:09:01 -0600
Subject: [TR] Media blasting?
In-Reply-To: <BLU162-W15C8EC473D3E55E77E4935E5DD0@phx.gbl>
References: <1df37.32bdc3bf.3d3e9454@cs.com>
	<BLU162-W15C8EC473D3E55E77E4935E5DD0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <A7A918AD-C8F7-41F4-BFC6-A0F506E727C5@comcast.net>

I've got a blasting hood/helmet  for blasting outside if you're  
interested. Only used twice.  Ten bucks plus shipping and you too can  
be gasping for air.


Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net




On Jul 23, 2012, at 7:49 AM, tom white wrote:

> Hi List,
>
> Does anyone know of any do it yourself media blasting equipment?   
> Has anyone
> done any DIY media blasting?  Thanks.
>
> Best regards,
>
> Tom
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net

From davewillner at pa.net  Mon Jul 23 18:14:32 2012
From: davewillner at pa.net (davewillner)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2012 20:14:32 -0400
Subject: [TR] RadioMobile hook up question
Message-ID: <926E7D25368D4CFFAAFC80176573C4EA@valued9cfc0b6f>

Been around the block and tried everything I can to get my new RadioMobile
1070x to fire up in the TR3, has an MP3 lead too. Anyone have any thoughts on
the best way to connect. I ran the hot lead to both the A1 terminal on the
control box as the instructions state and then tried to one the fuse box
terminals, no luck? The polarity is set on positive... all the connections and
fuses are good... Is there an easy way to test this "restored to new" unit?
Appreciate it

Dave Willner
Stroudsburg PA
59 TR3A
70 MGB
70 BSA 441 VS
Sometimes its better to travel than to arrive...

From gpr at key-men.com  Mon Jul 23 18:47:50 2012
From: gpr at key-men.com (George Richardson)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2012 20:47:50 -0400
Subject: [TR] Media blasting?
In-Reply-To: <BLU162-W15C8EC473D3E55E77E4935E5DD0@phx.gbl>
References: <1df37.32bdc3bf.3d3e9454@cs.com>
	<BLU162-W15C8EC473D3E55E77E4935E5DD0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <500DF0B6.2040708@key-men.com>

I got a blast cabinet on special from Harbor Freight for about $170 with 
a coupon and a sale. Great deal, but hard to assemble by yourself. I've 
also got a small gun I use for fine stuff, as well as an independent gun 
I can haul where I need it.

Sometimes there's no other way than being able to do it yourself.

George Richardson
Key Men - Keys for Classics
www.key-men.com

On 7/23/2012 9:49 AM, tom white wrote:
> Hi List,
>
> Does anyone know of any do it yourself media blasting equipment?  Has anyone
> done any DIY media blasting?  Thanks.
>
> Best regards,
>
> Tom
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/gpr at key-men.com

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jul 23 19:28:25 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2012 18:28:25 -0700
Subject: [TR] RadioMobile hook up question
In-Reply-To: <926E7D25368D4CFFAAFC80176573C4EA@valued9cfc0b6f>
References: <926E7D25368D4CFFAAFC80176573C4EA@valued9cfc0b6f>
Message-ID: <06ce01cd693b$9f6efb50$de4cf1f0$@rr.com>

Sounds like time to contact whoever sold you the unit.  A 1070X did not
originally have a USB input, so what you have is a 1070X case that has been
converted with modern electronics.  The polarity switch may or may not be
functional.  I did a quick Google and found one firm doing the conversion
who say you have to specify polarity up front (presumably meaning the switch
does nothing after the conversion).

Either A1 or any fuse block terminal should do as a source of power.  But I
would want to use one of the 'green' terminals on the fuse block, so the
radio goes off with the ignition switch.  A1 is hot all the time.

-- Randall 

From cliff_hansen at earthlink.net  Mon Jul 23 20:47:27 2012
From: cliff_hansen at earthlink.net (Cliff Hansen)
Date: Mon, 23 Jul 2012 20:47:27 -0600
Subject: [TR] Media blasting?
In-Reply-To: <BLU162-W15C8EC473D3E55E77E4935E5DD0@phx.gbl>
References: <1df37.32bdc3bf.3d3e9454@cs.com>
	<BLU162-W15C8EC473D3E55E77E4935E5DD0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4194197C45374FC0B12184922B2C377A@Shemp>

Tom,

The only advice I would add to other the excellent posts is to also shop 
Tractor Supply if you decide to get one of the cheap home cabinets.  Same 
stuff as Harbor Freight but when I bought one, it was cheaper and shipped to 
my home for free.  Media is cheaper at Tractor Supply too.

I had the TR4A's frame sandblasted, and the tub and panels cleaned by a guy 
who uses plastic media.  I wouldn't try these at home unless you live on a 
farm, have a LOT of time and a really cheap source of appropriate media.

Cliff


-----Original Message----- 
From: tom white
Sent: Monday, July 23, 2012 7:49 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Media blasting?

Hi List,

Does anyone know of any do it yourself media blasting equipment?  Has anyone
done any DIY media blasting?  Thanks.

Best regards,

Tom

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk  Tue Jul 24 02:41:34 2012
From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Tue, 24 Jul 2012 09:41:34 +0100 (BST)
Subject: [TR] RadioMobile hook up question
In-Reply-To: <926E7D25368D4CFFAAFC80176573C4EA@valued9cfc0b6f>
References: <926E7D25368D4CFFAAFC80176573C4EA@valued9cfc0b6f>
Message-ID: <1343119294.49951.YahooMailNeo@web29402.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

Dave
 
Sounds as though you haven't earthed (grounded) the unit itself. I'd
also be inclined to take your supply from the fusebox rather than the A1.
Being a 1070, you'll only get AM transmissions on the medium waveband.

Jonmac
http://standard-triumph-books.co.uk


>________________________________
>
From: davewillner <davewillner at pa.net>
>To: triumphs at autox.team.net 
>Sent:
Tuesday, 24 July 2012, 1:14
>Subject: [TR] RadioMobile hook up question
>
>Been around the block and tried everything I can to get my new RadioMobile
>1070x to fire up in the TR3, has an MP3 lead too. Anyone have any thoughts on
>the best way to connect. I ran the hot lead to both the A1 terminal on the
>control box as the instructions state and then tried to one the fuse box
>terminals, no luck? The polarity is set on positive... all the connections
and
>fuses are good... Is there an easy way to test this "restored to new"
unit?
>Appreciate it
>
>Dave Willner
>Stroudsburg PA
>59 TR3A
>70 MGB
>70 BSA
441 VS
>Sometimes its better to travel than to arrive...
>
>**
triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk

From wbeech at flash.net  Wed Jul 25 09:13:27 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2012 10:13:27 -0500
Subject: [TR] Frozen bushings
Message-ID: <2F637A104E4647F28423764CC0EBE052@bboffice>

I have been 'heating-and-beating' on the lower wishbone bushings, the ones
on the frame, for the past two days.  Even gone so far as to grind a notch
for better traction for the cold chisel.
 
None of them will so much a budge.  Is it at all possible that in the later
productions of the TR3B that these were permanently installed?  I hope not
because they are definitely smaller than the replacements from TRF.

Not sure I can get in that close with a grinder to cut them off, and I would
be afraid of buggering up the permanently installed shaft itself.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow"
M.Andretti

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Wed Jul 25 09:59:33 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2012 08:59:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Frozen bushings
In-Reply-To: <2F637A104E4647F28423764CC0EBE052@bboffice>
References: <2F637A104E4647F28423764CC0EBE052@bboffice>
Message-ID: <1343231973.73727.YahooMailNeo@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

i would start with a dremmell cutting wheel.
id start at the outside and cut
through the bushing for about 1/4" to 3/8" long.
if you catch the base metal
under them i don't think it will be the end of the world.sand it smooth later.
i would then try to "peal" it off .
 
Frank
________________________________
 From: Wbeech <wbeech at flash.net>
To:
triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2012 8:13 AM
Subject: [TR]
Frozen bushings
  
I have been 'heating-and-beating' on the lower wishbone
bushings, the ones
on the frame, for the past two days.  Even gone so far as
to grind a notch
for better traction for the cold chisel.

None of them will
so much a budge.  Is it at all possible that in the later
productions of the
TR3B that these were permanently installed?  I hope not
because they are
definitely smaller than the replacements from TRF.

Not sure I can get in that
close with a grinder to cut them off, and I would
be afraid of buggering up
the permanently installed shaft itself.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Bill

Bill
Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"If you
think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow"
M.Andretti
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From wbeech at flash.net  Wed Jul 25 10:24:05 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2012 11:24:05 -0500
Subject: [TR] Frozen bushings
In-Reply-To: <1343231973.73727.YahooMailNeo@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <2F637A104E4647F28423764CC0EBE052@bboffice>
	<1343231973.73727.YahooMailNeo@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <D9CD77FE7E7A428FB2A244782A7931FE@bboffice>

Called David at TRF, he said the same thing, great minds think alike.  
 
I used the Dremel and sliced it back as far as I could, then with the chisel
from the end I could open it up enough for some WD40 to make its way in and
after that it was easy going.  Broke 1 cutoff wheel per bushing, but it was
worth it.
 
Thanks,
Bill

  _____  

From: Frank Fisher [mailto:yellowtr3 at yahoo.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2012 11:00 AM
To: Wbeech; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Frozen bushings


i would start with a dremmell cutting wheel.
id start at the outside and cut through the bushing for about 1/4" to 3/8"
long.
if you catch the base metal under them i don't think it will be the end of
the world.sand it smooth later.
i would then try to "peal" it off .
 
Frank

From: Wbeech <wbeech at flash.net>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2012 8:13 AM
Subject: [TR] Frozen bushings


I have been 'heating-and-beating' on the lower wishbone bushings, the ones
on the frame, for the past two days.  Even gone so far as to grind a notch
for better traction for the cold chisel.

None of them will so much a budge.  Is it at all possible that in the later
productions of the TR3B that these were permanently installed?  I hope not
because they are definitely smaller than the replacements from TRF.

Not sure I can get in that close with a grinder to cut them off, and I would
be afraid of buggering up the permanently installed shaft itself.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow"
M.Andretti

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Wed Jul 25 10:57:09 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2012 09:57:09 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Frozen bushings
In-Reply-To: <D9CD77FE7E7A428FB2A244782A7931FE@bboffice>
References: <2F637A104E4647F28423764CC0EBE052@bboffice>
	<1343231973.73727.YahooMailNeo@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<D9CD77FE7E7A428FB2A244782A7931FE@bboffice>
Message-ID: <1343235429.54221.YahooMailNeo@web120205.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Laughing my ......
not sure about that great minds in my case.
________________________________
 From: Wbeech <wbeech at flash.net>
To: 'Frank
Fisher' <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>; triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Wednesday, July
25, 2012 9:24 AM
Subject: RE: [TR] Frozen bushings
  

Called David at TRF, he
said the same thing, great minds think 
alike.   
  
I used the Dremel and
sliced it back as far as I could, then with the 
chisel from the end I could
open it up enough for some WD40 to make its way in 
and after that it was easy
going.  Broke 1 cutoff wheel per bushing, but it 
was worth it. 
  
Thanks,
Bill


________________________________
 From: Frank Fisher
[mailto:yellowtr3 at yahoo.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2012 11:00 AM
To:
Wbeech; 
triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Frozen 
bushings

  
i
would start with a dremmell cutting wheel. 
id start at the outside and cut
through the bushing for about 1/4" to 
3/8" long. 
if you catch the base metal
under them i don't think it will be the end of the 
world.sand it smooth
later. 
i would then try to "peal" it off . 
  
Frank
________________________________
From: Wbeech 
<wbeech at flash.net>
To:
triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2012 8:13 AM
Subject: [TR]
Frozen 
bushings

I have been 'heating-and-beating' on the lower 
wishbone
bushings, the ones
on the frame, for the past two days.  Even 
gone so far as
to grind a notch
for better traction for the cold 
chisel.

None of them will
so much a budge.  Is it at all possible 
that in the later
productions of the
TR3B that these were permanently 
installed?  I hope not
because they are
definitely smaller than the 
replacements from TRF.

Not sure I 
can get in
that close with a grinder to cut them off, and I would
be afraid 
of buggering
up the permanently installed shaft itself.

Any 
suggestions?

Thanks,
Bill
Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L 
"Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"If you
think you have 
everything under control... You're driving too slow"
M.Andretti

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: 
http://www.team.net/archive
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http://www.team.net/forums
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From carlsereda at aol.com  Wed Jul 25 12:18:23 2012
From: carlsereda at aol.com (Carl Sereda)
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2012 14:18:23 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 5, Issue 311
In-Reply-To: <mailman.17.1343239203.11052.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.17.1343239203.11052.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8CF38A902ABEB49-1340-C05C@webmail-m035.sysops.aol.com>

Hi Bill,
On my TR4, I heated the bushing with a propane torch then took an ice cube and
jambed it on the bolt's exposed end (to cool and shrink it) thereby (in theory
at least) the bush was expanded more than the iced-down bolt, then I twisted
the bush off with vice-grips. Took a lot of sweat and grunting - plus generous
amounts of PB Blaster in between - but got all four bushes off without damage
to the bolts..
Good Luck,
Carl '63 TR4 since '74



I have been 'heating-and-beating' on the lower wishbone bushings, the ones
on the frame, for the past two days.  Even gone so far as to grind a notch
for better traction for the cold chisel.

None of them will so much a budge.  Is it at all possible that in the later
productions of the TR3B that these were permanently installed?  I hope not
because they are definitely smaller than the replacements from TRF.

Not sure I can get in that close with a grinder to cut them off, and I would
be afraid of buggering up the permanently installed shaft itself.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow"
M.Andretti

From trdoctor at aol.com  Wed Jul 25 13:25:06 2012
From: trdoctor at aol.com (Sam)
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2012 14:25:06 -0500
Subject: [TR] Frozen Bushings
Message-ID: <3BCB5135-7268-4FF2-AB3D-F9704FBC3B60@aol.com>

<snip>I have been 'heating-and-beating' on the lower wishbone bushings, the
ones
on the frame, for the past two days.  Even gone so far as to grind a notch
for better traction for the cold chisel.
Any suggestions?<snip>

If you have access to an air hammer/chisel use the attachment with a fork on
the end of the chisel, put it on the piece you are trying to remove (I think
it is the steel sleeve on the front pegs of the lower a-arms?), and from the
inside out, drive the sleeve off of the peg.  It works well for me.  I have
beat my hands to death with a chisel before and this way is WAY easier.  Be
sure to wear ear plugs as it makes a heck of a racket when driving them off.

From greg at gelhar.com  Wed Jul 25 20:46:29 2012
From: greg at gelhar.com (greg at gelhar.com)
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2012 22:46:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] Frozen bushings
In-Reply-To: <2F637A104E4647F28423764CC0EBE052@bboffice>
References: <2F637A104E4647F28423764CC0EBE052@bboffice>
Message-ID: <6afd6d5309bd6a6558fdb8c2d4db2b9c.squirrel@email.accountsupport.com>

I went through this just last month. The steel bushings are hardened but
most definately a separate part. I used a cut off wheel (many wheels) to
cut almost through the top and bottom of the bushings. A cold chisel and
hammer was used to finish removal by getting the bushings to crack along
the cut line. Very slow and most agrevating.


Greg G.
Osseo, MN



> I have been 'heating-and-beating' on the lower wishbone bushings, the ones
> on the frame, for the past two days.  Even gone so far as to grind a notch
> for better traction for the cold chisel.
>
> None of them will so much a budge.  Is it at all possible that in the
> later
> productions of the TR3B that these were permanently installed?  I hope not
> because they are definitely smaller than the replacements from TRF.
>
> Not sure I can get in that close with a grinder to cut them off, and I
> would
> be afraid of buggering up the permanently installed shaft itself.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks,
> Bill
>
> Bill Beecher
> '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
> '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B"
> www.triumphowners.com/1566
> '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
> "If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too
> slow"
> M.Andretti
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/greg at gelhar.com

From mark at bradakis.com  Wed Jul 25 21:19:51 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2012 21:19:51 -0600
Subject: [TR] What fun
Message-ID: <5010B757.4050406@bradakis.com>

Looks like another round of network problems here in Team.Net land.  
Mail may be
SLOW.  I'm looking into it.

mjb.

From wbeech at flash.net  Wed Jul 25 21:37:09 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Wed, 25 Jul 2012 22:37:09 -0500
Subject: [TR] Frozen bushings
In-Reply-To: <6afd6d5309bd6a6558fdb8c2d4db2b9c.squirrel@email.accountsupport.com>
References: <2F637A104E4647F28423764CC0EBE052@bboffice>
	<6afd6d5309bd6a6558fdb8c2d4db2b9c.squirrel@email.accountsupport.com>
Message-ID: <0FD275421BF945CCA7A813D509F7A0F2@bboffice>

Yes, that was the final solution, several cutoff wheels and a big hammer &
chisel.

Now on to adding some re-inforcements to the frame before we go to the shop
for some final tweaking to get it back in line.

Thanks to all for your suggestions,
Bill

 

-----Original Message-----
From: greg at gelhar.com [mailto:greg at gelhar.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2012 9:46 PM
To: Wbeech
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Frozen bushings

I went through this just last month. The steel bushings are hardened but
most definately a separate part. I used a cut off wheel (many wheels) to cut
almost through the top and bottom of the bushings. A cold chisel and hammer
was used to finish removal by getting the bushings to crack along the cut
line. Very slow and most agrevating.


Greg G.
Osseo, MN



> I have been 'heating-and-beating' on the lower wishbone bushings, the 
> ones on the frame, for the past two days.  Even gone so far as to 
> grind a notch for better traction for the cold chisel.
>
> None of them will so much a budge.  Is it at all possible that in the 
> later productions of the TR3B that these were permanently installed?  
> I hope not because they are definitely smaller than the replacements 
> from TRF.
>
> Not sure I can get in that close with a grinder to cut them off, and I 
> would be afraid of buggering up the permanently installed shaft 
> itself.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks,
> Bill
>
> Bill Beecher
> '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
> '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B"
> www.triumphowners.com/1566
> '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
> "If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too 
> slow"
> M.Andretti
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/greg at gelhar.com

From elliottr at rmi.net  Thu Jul 26 10:44:36 2012
From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott)
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2012 11:44:36 -0500
Subject: [TR] Valve Adjustment
Message-ID: <501173F4.9050906@rmi.net>

Hi,

I have a question about valves going out of adjustment.

Recently, I adjusted the valves on my Spitfire (two of the valves were 
way out of adjustment- too large of a gap).  I then took it in to a shop 
as I could not get it to run quite right.  I asked them to adjust the 
carbs as I thought that was the problem.

Well in the process of dong that, he discovered that some of the valves 
were way out of adjustment.  Okay I might have messed up some, but he 
said they were about .1.

Now I was changing the oil and I wanted to check the rocker assembly as 
I thought perhaps it was loose and allowing the gap to get larger.   All 
of the nuts were tight.

But I looked at a couple of the valves and they are probably about .1 again.

It looks like the adjusters on the valves that have the big gap don't 
have as much of the adjusting screw sticking out the top as the others.


What could be causing my gap to increase so much?

I recently put in new tappets that were tested for hardness.

Thanks,
Roger Elliott
1980 Spitfire

From elliottr at rmi.net  Thu Jul 26 11:04:09 2012
From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott)
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2012 12:04:09 -0500
Subject: [TR] Valve Adjustment
In-Reply-To: <501173F4.9050906@rmi.net>
References: <501173F4.9050906@rmi.net>
Message-ID: <50117889.7000903@rmi.net>

I converted wrong the feeler gauge I had is only marked metric.  It was 
.040.

Roger

On 07/26/2012 11:44 AM, Roger Elliott wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I have a question about valves going out of adjustment.
>
> Recently, I adjusted the valves on my Spitfire (two of the valves were 
> way out of adjustment- too large of a gap).  I then took it in to a 
> shop as I could not get it to run quite right.  I asked them to adjust 
> the carbs as I thought that was the problem.
>
> Well in the process of dong that, he discovered that some of the 
> valves were way out of adjustment.  Okay I might have messed up some, 
> but he said they were about .1.
>
> Now I was changing the oil and I wanted to check the rocker assembly 
> as I thought perhaps it was loose and allowing the gap to get 
> larger.   All of the nuts were tight.
>
> But I looked at a couple of the valves and they are probably about .1 
> again.
>
> It looks like the adjusters on the valves that have the big gap don't 
> have as much of the adjusting screw sticking out the top as the others.
>
>
> What could be causing my gap to increase so much?
>
> I recently put in new tappets that were tested for hardness.
>
> Thanks,
> Roger Elliott
> 1980 Spitfire
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/elliottr at rmi.net

From elliottr at rmi.net  Thu Jul 26 11:50:52 2012
From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott)
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2012 12:50:52 -0500
Subject: [TR] Valve Adjustment
In-Reply-To: <50117889.7000903@rmi.net>
References: <501173F4.9050906@rmi.net> <50117889.7000903@rmi.net>
Message-ID: <5011837C.4020305@rmi.net>

I think I found the problem.  The ball on the bottom of the valve 
adjusting screw is gone on one of the valves and noticeably worn on another.

There may be additional problems,  I am going to check the cam lift.

But I'm thinking that the screws started wearing then the process 
accelerated.

I will post a picture of the the adjusting screws later.

Thanks,

Roger


On 07/26/2012 12:04 PM, Roger Elliott wrote:
> I converted wrong the feeler gauge I had is only marked metric.  It 
> was .040.
>
> Roger
>
> On 07/26/2012 11:44 AM, Roger Elliott wrote:
>> Hi,
>>
>> I have a question about valves going out of adjustment.
>>
>> Recently, I adjusted the valves on my Spitfire (two of the valves 
>> were way out of adjustment- too large of a gap).  I then took it in 
>> to a shop as I could not get it to run quite right.  I asked them to 
>> adjust the carbs as I thought that was the problem.
>>
>> Well in the process of dong that, he discovered that some of the 
>> valves were way out of adjustment.  Okay I might have messed up some, 
>> but he said they were about .1.
>>
>> Now I was changing the oil and I wanted to check the rocker assembly 
>> as I thought perhaps it was loose and allowing the gap to get 
>> larger.   All of the nuts were tight.
>>
>> But I looked at a couple of the valves and they are probably about .1 
>> again.
>>
>> It looks like the adjusters on the valves that have the big gap don't 
>> have as much of the adjusting screw sticking out the top as the others.
>>
>>
>> What could be causing my gap to increase so much?
>>
>> I recently put in new tappets that were tested for hardness.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Roger Elliott
>> 1980 Spitfire
>>
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/elliottr at rmi.net
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/elliottr at rmi.net

From elliottr at rmi.net  Thu Jul 26 16:14:33 2012
From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott)
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2012 17:14:33 -0500
Subject: [TR] Valve Adjustment
In-Reply-To: <5011837C.4020305@rmi.net>
References: <501173F4.9050906@rmi.net> <50117889.7000903@rmi.net>
	<5011837C.4020305@rmi.net>
Message-ID: <5011C149.3080700@rmi.net>

Here is a link to the adjusting screws.

http://www.kcallbritish.com/spitfire/adjustingscrew.html

Roger
On 7/26/2012 12:50 PM, Roger Elliott wrote:
> I think I found the problem.  The ball on the bottom of the valve 
> adjusting screw is gone on one of the valves and noticeably worn on 
> another.
>
> There may be additional problems,  I am going to check the cam lift.
>
> But I'm thinking that the screws started wearing then the process 
> accelerated.
>
> I will post a picture of the the adjusting screws later.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Roger

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Thu Jul 26 19:32:14 2012
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2012 21:32:14 -0400
Subject: [TR] Rat rod tr6
In-Reply-To: <CANhzkeOchru4UaeytPKH_VeFLkLcX1S5qGprP0gbitU-VcVW2g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANhzkeOchru4UaeytPKH_VeFLkLcX1S5qGprP0gbitU-VcVW2g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANhzkeMON=AHN6pcv1igPT7D8UhMG93k8pGEK1w1dL5dkyONNg@mail.gmail.com>

I'm embarking on the tr6 Illudium Q-36 project.

From elliottr at rmi.net  Fri Jul 27 10:58:47 2012
From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott)
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2012 11:58:47 -0500
Subject: [TR] Oil and Rocker Arm Assembly and Adjusting screws
Message-ID: <5012C8C7.3030709@rmi.net>

Hi all,

Is there an easy way to see if oil is getting all the way through the 
rocker arm assembly?  It is currently off the car.

Chris pointed out that part of my problem with the adjusting screws may 
be that they aren't getting lubed.  It makes sense as it is they are on 
1 and 2 valves.  The furthest from the oil supply.

Thanks everyone.

Roger

From tony at tonydrews.com  Fri Jul 27 11:18:47 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2012 12:18:47 -0500
Subject: [TR] Oil and Rocker Arm Assembly and Adjusting screws
In-Reply-To: <5012C8C7.3030709@rmi.net>
References: <5012C8C7.3030709@rmi.net>
Message-ID: <mailman.26.1343409387.2450.triumphs@autox.team.net>

If the spit works anything like the TR-2/3/4, the rocker assembly is 
fed by the oil going to the rear cam bearing.  If the cam bearings 
aren't installed properly, no oil comes up from the cam.  In the 
TR-2/3/4 there's an external line that can be run from the block to 
the head to provide more flow.  On the TR-4, that's where the problem 
would most likely be rather than in the rocker assembly itself.

One way to check is to put the rocker assembly back on the car but 
leave the valve cover off.  Start it up.  If you coat the whole 
engine compartment with oil being flung off of the valve train you 
don't have an oil delivery problem.  If things stay pretty dry, you 
do have a problem.  I'm guessing that others have a better / less 
messy way to check...  :)

Tony Drews

At 11:58 AM 7/27/2012, Roger Elliott wrote:
>Hi all,
>
>Is there an easy way to see if oil is getting all the way through 
>the rocker arm assembly?  It is currently off the car.
>
>Chris pointed out that part of my problem with the adjusting screws 
>may be that they aren't getting lubed.  It makes sense as it is they 
>are on 1 and 2 valves.  The furthest from the oil supply.
>
>Thanks everyone.
>
>Roger
>
>** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Jul 27 11:58:35 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2012 10:58:35 -0700
Subject: [TR] Oil and Rocker Arm Assembly and Adjusting screws
In-Reply-To: <20120727171643.DC9AD2D0197@autox.team.net>
References: <5012C8C7.3030709@rmi.net>
	<20120727171643.DC9AD2D0197@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <0a4f01cd6c21$72051a30$560f4e90$@rr.com>

> One way to check is to put the rocker assembly back on the car but
> leave the valve cover off.  Start it up.  If you coat the whole
> engine compartment with oil being flung off of the valve train

I make that test often (every time I run the valves).  On a stock TR2/3/4
engine, the oil just oozes out and makes very little if any mess (as long as
the idle rpm is low).  It takes a minute or two to even fill the rocker
shaft (so the front rockers get lubed).

I believe this is deliberate, the rear cam journal has a flat on it that is
intended to act as a metering pump and limit the volume of oil sent to the
rocker shaft.  My opinion, the bypass that Tony mentioned puts way, way too
much oil on top (for a street engine).  As John "Twosheds" Herrera used to
say, I have experimented with this.

With the shaft off the engine, I would suggest disassembling the shaft to be
sure that the passages are clear.  Due to the slow oil movement, the bore
through the shaft is a prime location for sludge to develop.  

Another option would be to simply send the whole thing off to Rocker Arm
Specialists for rebuilding.  If it has been run without enough oil long
enough to destroy the adjusters like that, chances are that the shaft &
rockers are severely worn as well.

If you want, you can also remove the spark plugs and spin the engine with
the starter until oil starts to ooze out from the passage that feeds the
shaft.  If you get anything at all, most likely the bearing is installed
properly and everything is working as intended.

-- Randall 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Jul 27 12:03:51 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2012 11:03:51 -0700
Subject: [TR] Rat rod tr6
In-Reply-To: <CANhzkeMON=AHN6pcv1igPT7D8UhMG93k8pGEK1w1dL5dkyONNg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANhzkeOchru4UaeytPKH_VeFLkLcX1S5qGprP0gbitU-VcVW2g@mail.gmail.com>
	<CANhzkeMON=AHN6pcv1igPT7D8UhMG93k8pGEK1w1dL5dkyONNg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <0a5101cd6c22$2e28b500$8a7a1f00$@rr.com>

> I'm embarking on the tr6 Illudium Q-36 project.

Where's the kaboom?

-- Randall 

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Fri Jul 27 13:23:17 2012
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2012 15:23:17 -0400
Subject: [TR] Picture Needed
Message-ID: <BLU168-W128C5CBB439874CD4CAD8EDBAC10@phx.gbl>

I am looking for a digital picture of Bob Harris, better yet Bob next to his
car.   Those of you who attend the TRF Summer Party know of Bob and his white
spitfire. Bob had a stroke earlier this year and wont be attending this years
summer party.  I want to make up a get well card of sorts to bring to the
summer party next week and get folks to sign it and I will then get it in
Bob's hands. Please look through some of your summer party pictures and if you
have a shot, email it to me if you can.

Thanks,
Marty Sukey
trmarty at hotmail.com

From hdrider570 at att.net  Fri Jul 27 13:30:35 2012
From: hdrider570 at att.net (hdrider570 at att.net)
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2012 12:30:35 -0700
Subject: [TR] http://www.1077thebone.com/Default.aspx
Message-ID: <5012EC5B.2030802@att.net>

If you are just worried about the shaft and rockers you can use brake 
clean with the red tube installed to shoot cleaner through the shaft.  
Moving the rockers to align the hole in the rocker with the hole in the 
shaft will allow cleaner to seep out of the rocker arm.  You can check 
each rocker arm individually that way.

Edward Hamer
petaluma CA

From arakelianp at mossmotors.com  Fri Jul 27 17:15:42 2012
From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Pete Arakelian)
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2012 16:15:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 clutch problem
Message-ID: <4D4FABA15328FC42B1AA0DEE4673548C86F7FD3755@DR-EX-04.datacenter.dataresolution.net>

We are trying to help a customer diagnose a problem.
He just had his clutch replaced. Had a Borg & Beck assembly replaced with a
Borg & Beck pressure plate, disc, and RHP release bearing.  Also had to
replace the t/o bearing sleeve because it had a Green Bearing one piece
release bearing and sleeve unit. Used one of the new phosphor-bronze sleeves
with copper based lubricant as recommended. The fork was fine.  Also replaced
the pilot bushing.
Symptoms:  After the first approx 100 miles a squeal developed that sounded
like the t/o bearing.  Squeal when lay foot on pedal, silent when pushed, very
slight when no pressure at all.  Then after another 100 miles or so the real
problem developed.  When the pedal is released it feels rough along the entire
length of travel.  To the point that it makes it difficult in traffic because
it often seems to hang up at the very end of travel so sometimes it is
difficult to just let the clutch out slowly.  It only occurs when the engine
is running.  When you sit in the car, engine idling, and press the pedal you
can feel the roughness.  If you work the pedal when the engine is running,
then shut the engine off, as soon as the engine stops the pedal feels smooth.
Someone suggested the clutch master is hanging up, but that would occur all
the time, engine running or not.
Thoughts?  Please...
Peter Arakelian

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Jul 27 18:21:55 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2012 17:21:55 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 clutch problem
In-Reply-To: <4D4FABA15328FC42B1AA0DEE4673548C86F7FD3755@DR-EX-04.datacenter.dataresolution.net>
References: <4D4FABA15328FC42B1AA0DEE4673548C86F7FD3755@DR-EX-04.datacenter.dataresolution.net>
Message-ID: <0abd01cd6c56$ff264da0$fd72e8e0$@rr.com>

> Thoughts?  Please...

Sounds like a bad TOB to me.  The heat from the bad bearing has likely
damaged the carrier and/or front cover as well.  Last time I went through
that set of symptoms, the carrier eventually seized entirely to the front
cover and had to be cut off (after limping home in rush hour traffic with a
clutch that wouldn't release).

The bearing may have been bad off the shelf, or it may have been damaged
during installation.  The design is less than wonderful in that regard,
there is no way to press the inner race onto the sleeve without pushing
against the bearing.

I've been told that even improper storage can lead to problems, but I'm not
sure I believe that.

There's a good article on the Buckeye Triumphs site ("Reliable Clutch") that
talks about some other things to look for, after it's apart.

Sorry, Peter, I'd love to say it was just a hydraulic problem, but I don't
think so.

-- Randall 

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Fri Jul 27 20:42:44 2012
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2012 21:42:44 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 clutch problem
In-Reply-To: <0abd01cd6c56$ff264da0$fd72e8e0$@rr.com>
References: <4D4FABA15328FC42B1AA0DEE4673548C86F7FD3755@DR-EX-04.datacenter.dataresolution.net>
	<0abd01cd6c56$ff264da0$fd72e8e0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <B91D7F30D052447A8DF93559AFC007A0@GregPC>

I agree with Randall, and Pete, the hydraulic system doesn't care if the 
drivetrain is spinning, the T/O bearing does.  It sounds like a pull the 
tranny again problem, unfortunately.  Only other possibility is the bearing 
is not aligned or moving smoothly, this does not seem likely, but in any 
event sounds like a pull the tranny issue, certainly test hydraulic action 
as best you can though before taking the more drastic action.

Greg Lemon
68 TR250


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: "'Pete Arakelian'" <arakelianp at mossmotors.com>; 
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 27, 2012 7:21 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 clutch problem


>> Thoughts?  Please...
>
> Sounds like a bad TOB to me.  The heat from the bad bearing has likely
> damaged the carrier and/or front cover as well.  Last time I went through
> that set of symptoms, the carrier eventually seized entirely to the front
> cover and had to be cut off (after limping home in rush hour traffic with 
> a
> clutch that wouldn't release).
>
> The bearing may have been bad off the shelf, or it may have been damaged
> during installation.  The design is less than wonderful in that regard,
> there is no way to press the inner race onto the sleeve without pushing
> against the bearing.
>
> I've been told that even improper storage can lead to problems, but I'm 
> not
> sure I believe that.
>
> There's a good article on the Buckeye Triumphs site ("Reliable Clutch") 
> that
> talks about some other things to look for, after it's apart.
>
> Sorry, Peter, I'd love to say it was just a hydraulic problem, but I don't
> think so.
>
> -- Randall
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/glemon at neb.rr.com

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Sat Jul 28 09:15:17 2012
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2012 08:15:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Clutch Slave Return Spring
Message-ID: <1343488517.54058.YahooMailNeo@web180902.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

     I am having a rough time with clutch return springs. The old spring broke
when I was taking it off to rebuild the clutch slave. It broke "in the
spring". I ordered two new ones from Moss so I would have a spare. This
morning I went to put the new spring in and it broke at the 90 on the spring
straight part. I was holding it on the the long straight part at the 90 when
it happened. No problem, I thought - I have a spare. When putting the second
try on the little hook didn't get in the hole. I was trying to work/walk it in
with a screwdriver and then it broke as well. Time to order some more springs
and re-think things. So much for motoring about this weekend.
     Is there
something I am missing on installing the spring? Is there an easier way to do
it? I am holding the long straight part up to the 90 and stretching it out to
get it in. I have done it many times before without issue. The spring has
broke by itself a couple of times over the last 20 years.

     What the heck?
     TIA,

     Bill in Tehachapi

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Sat Jul 28 10:00:23 2012
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2012 12:00:23 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 clutch problem
Message-ID: <16841.3cd397f3.3d456697@aol.com>

Peter,
 
Sorry, but I think you have a TOB carrier problem....I agree with Randall's 
 assessment.  It happened with my TR6 after restoration....almost the same  
exact story and timelines as you've experienced.
 
We had to remove the transmission and fit another bearing with sleeve but  
this time we really examined how the bearing moved before we put everything 
back  together.....follow Randall's suggestion to visit the Buckeye 
Triumph's  website for their help link.
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack,  PA
1976 TR6 CF57822U



In a message dated 7/27/2012 7:25:10 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
arakelianp at mossmotors.com writes:

When the  pedal is released it feels rough along the entire
length of travel.   To the point that it makes it difficult in traffic 
because
it often seems  to hang up at the very end of travel so sometimes it is
difficult to just  let the clutch out slowly.  It only occurs when the 
engine
is  running.

From wbeech at flash.net  Sat Jul 28 10:53:30 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2012 11:53:30 -0500
Subject: [TR] Clutch Slave Return Spring
In-Reply-To: <1343488517.54058.YahooMailNeo@web180902.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1343488517.54058.YahooMailNeo@web180902.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <0C719B17BB9A47A994424AF85D46F784@bboffice>

Ditto here, I bought mine from Moss a few months ago and it broke in the 90
as I was trying to stretch it into place.  Stuck it into an envelope and
returned it to Moss and they replaced it, no questions.  This time I hooked
the 90 on the bracket first then stretched from the rounded end onto the
clutch arm, no problems yet.

I think that Moss must have gotten a bad batch, I would send them back. 

Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow"
M.Andretti


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer
Sent: Saturday, July 28, 2012 10:15 AM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] Clutch Slave Return Spring

     I am having a rough time with clutch return springs. The old spring
broke when I was taking it off to rebuild the clutch slave. It broke "in the
spring". I ordered two new ones from Moss so I would have a spare. This
morning I went to put the new spring in and it broke at the 90 on the spring
straight part. I was holding it on the the long straight part at the 90 when
it happened. No problem, I thought - I have a spare. When putting the second
try on the little hook didn't get in the hole. I was trying to work/walk it
in with a screwdriver and then it broke as well. Time to order some more
springs and re-think things. So much for motoring about this weekend.
     Is there
something I am missing on installing the spring? Is there an easier way to
do it? I am holding the long straight part up to the 90 and stretching it
out to get it in. I have done it many times before without issue. The spring
has broke by itself a couple of times over the last 20 years.

     What the heck?
     TIA,

     Bill in Tehachapi

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From trdoctor at aol.com  Sat Jul 28 13:19:11 2012
From: trdoctor at aol.com (Sam)
Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2012 14:19:11 -0500
Subject: [TR]  TR6 clutch problem
Message-ID: <B1B581AA-C505-4CF5-A0BC-713DA2F744FC@aol.com>

<We are trying to help a customer diagnose a problem.
He just had his clutch replaced. Had a Borg & Beck assembly replaced with a
Borg & Beck pressure plate, disc, and RHP release bearing.  Also had to
replace the t/o bearing sleeve because it had a Green Bearing one piece
release bearing and sleeve unit. Used one of the new phosphor-bronze sleeves
with copper based lubricant as recommended. The fork was fine.  Also replaced
the pilot bushing.
Symptoms:  After the first approx 100 miles a squeal developed that sounded
like the t/o bearing.  Squeal when lay foot on pedal, silent when pushed,
very
slight when no pressure at all.  Then after another 100 miles or so the real
problem developed.  When the pedal is released it feels rough along the
entire
length of travel.  To the point that it makes it difficult in traffic because
it often seems to hang up at the very end of travel so sometimes it is
difficult to just let the clutch out slowly.  It only occurs when the engine
is running.  When you sit in the car, engine idling, and press the pedal you
can feel the roughness.  If you work the pedal when the engine is running,
then shut the engine off, as soon as the engine stops the pedal feels smooth.
Someone suggested the clutch master is hanging up, but that would occur all
the time, engine running or not.
Thoughts?  Please...
Peter Arakelian>


Are the alignment pins in place?

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Sat Jul 28 13:47:23 2012
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (Craig Nicholls)
Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2012 15:47:23 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 clutch problem
Message-ID: <drwycbxjmlm4ssec7fqs1i1v.1343504843655@email.android.com>

That issue means a dowel was not used to center everything up.  Well documented at trf and the ohio buckeye site....craig

Sent from my Verizon Wireless smartphone

Sam <trdoctor at aol.com> wrote:

><We are trying to help a customer diagnose a problem.
>He just had his clutch replaced. Had a Borg & Beck assembly replaced with a
>Borg & Beck pressure plate, disc, and RHP release bearing.  Also had to
>replace the t/o bearing sleeve because it had a Green Bearing one piece
>release bearing and sleeve unit. Used one of the new phosphor-bronze sleeves
>with copper based lubricant as recommended. The fork was fine.  Also replaced
>the pilot bushing.
>Symptoms:  After the first approx 100 miles a squeal developed that sounded
>like the t/o bearing.  Squeal when lay foot on pedal, silent when pushed,
>very
>slight when no pressure at all.  Then after another 100 miles or so the real
>problem developed.  When the pedal is released it feels rough along the
>entire
>length of travel.  To the point that it makes it difficult in traffic because
>it often seems to hang up at the very end of travel so sometimes it is
>difficult to just let the clutch out slowly.  It only occurs when the engine
>is running.  When you sit in the car, engine idling, and press the pedal you
>can feel the roughness.  If you work the pedal when the engine is running,
>then shut the engine off, as soon as the engine stops the pedal feels smooth.
>Someone suggested the clutch master is hanging up, but that would occur all
>the time, engine running or not.
>Thoughts?  Please...
>Peter Arakelian>
>
>
>Are the alignment pins in place?
>
>** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net

From triumphstag at gmail.com  Sat Jul 28 18:17:18 2012
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2012 17:17:18 -0700
Subject: [TR] help wiring a 240v welder US
Message-ID: <CANLCLaH6hPLhSH7puN9P9aDMvNvTkSsqs0i1F_Wf8hJopRwK1g@mail.gmail.com>

I have a old style 240v dryer outlet. (three pronged socket and not 4)
 What I was told is that one leg is 110v from one circuit breaker and
another leg is 110 from another breaker.. Is the center third leg ground?
 Why are there two 110v lines from separate breakers? Why not one line
taken form the circuit breaker and then split?



On the welder plug, one pin/leg is narrower than the other. Why is this?
And does it mater.

How do I connect this welder plug. The welder is 30 amp and the dry socket
should be sufficient I've been told.


Sujit



-- 
Sujit Roy, Realtor
Keller Williams Realty, Cupertino, CA
(408) 839-8359
roysrealty.com

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Sat Jul 28 18:41:58 2012
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2012 20:41:58 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Annual Charity Plea
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1207282034340.14368@isis.mit.edu>

Hi,

This message is SPAM, plain and simple. I'm looking for donations to my 
SCCA region's (New England Region) Race Against Leukemia (RAL). All the 
money goes to a 503C3 charity, it's 100% deductable. I get nothing from 
your donations except bragging rights.

If I helped you in any way this year through pictures, stories, etc, 
please consider a donation in any amount. You can donate at the following 
web site:

http://www.firstgiving.com/fundraiser/robert-lang-1/nerrace

The race weekend is the first weekend in AUG, but the site will except 
donations for some time after that, if you get the urge later. ;-)

Thanks in advance!

Regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From greg at gelhar.com  Sat Jul 28 19:43:50 2012
From: greg at gelhar.com (greg at gelhar.com)
Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2012 21:43:50 -0400
Subject: [TR] help wiring a 240v welder US
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaH6hPLhSH7puN9P9aDMvNvTkSsqs0i1F_Wf8hJopRwK1g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaH6hPLhSH7puN9P9aDMvNvTkSsqs0i1F_Wf8hJopRwK1g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <68ff00a9069d3a26c7b1e446439ce3b5.squirrel@email.accountsupport.com>

> I have a old style 240v dryer outlet. (three pronged socket and not 4)
>  What I was told is that one leg is 110v from one circuit breaker and
> another leg is 110 from another breaker.. Is the center third leg ground?
>  Why are there two 110v lines from separate breakers? Why not one line
> taken form the circuit breaker and then split?
>
>
>
> On the welder plug, one pin/leg is narrower than the other. Why is this?
> And does it mater.
>
> How do I connect this welder plug. The welder is 30 amp and the dry socket
> should be sufficient I've been told.
>
>
> Sujit
>
Your 125/250 volt, 30 amp, dryer outlet accepts only a three prong plug.
If it is the stadard Nema 10-30, it does not have a grounding terminal.
Dryers, because they contain devices that require 120 volts, are permitted
to be grounded using the neutral terminal. That accepts the "L" shaped
blade on the plug. The other two terminals have 240 volts between them.

You should not have two separate circuit breakers. The two breakers must
have a common trip lever. They supply the 240 volts. The 120 volts, for
the dryer, is available between EITHER circuit breaker and neutral.

If you choose, the outlet will operate your welder, but again there is no
true ground. The neutral is a GROUNDED (white) conductor, but by code, you
should have a GROUNDING (green) conductor.


Greg

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Jul 29 07:46:58 2012
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2012 09:46:58 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] help wiring a 240v welder US
Message-ID: <5ed20.5a23371b.3d4698d1@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/28/2012 7:17:26 PM Central Daylight Time, 
triumphstag at gmail.com writes: 
> I have a old style 240v dryer outlet. (three pronged socket and not 4)
> What I was told is that one leg is 110v from one circuit breaker and
> another leg is 110 from another breaker.. Is the center third leg ground?
> Why are there two 110v lines from separate breakers? Why not one line
> taken form the circuit breaker and then split?

The answer is, as always: it depends.  It depends on how it was wired up.  
Never assume in a situation like this.  Codes vary from state to state and 
they change over time.

While it is true you will measure 110V from each leg to center it will vary 
as to where the center leg is connected.  In some cases it will be 
connected to neutral and in other cases it will be wired to earth ground.  Although 
these two points are bonded together at some point and, in theory, are at 
the same potential (zwro volts) their purposes are quite different.  One is a 
current carrying conductor and the other is there to save your life.  

> 
> 
> 
> On the welder plug, one pin/leg is narrower than the other. Why is this?
> And does it mater.
> 
> How do I connect this welder plug. The welder is 30 amp and the dry socket
> should be sufficient I've been told.

Since you are using an outlet designed for a single phase 220 volt load for 
a welder which is a single phase 220 volt load it should work as intended.  
There should be no problems with this setup.  My generic warning above is 
for those who would consider using this circuit to power a couple of 110V 
devices.  Don't do that without checking it out further.  Or find an 
electrician or someone like him.  (sorry for the Firesign reference)

Like brakes, your life is at stake, this is no place for shortcuts.

Stay safe.

Dave

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Sun Jul 29 16:28:22 2012
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2012 15:28:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] How Long to MC's Last
Message-ID: <1343600902.26392.YahooMailNeo@web180902.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

     So I just rebuilt the clutch & brake master cylinders and the clutch
slave in my 1960 TR3A. I have only owned the car for 20 of its 52 years, so
lord only knows how many times this has been done before. I think that I have
done them four times, maybe more.
     How many times can they be rebuilt? It
is worth picking up spares on Ebay and maybe having them sleeved?     

    
There really isn't much swarf when I hone them out.
     When White Post or
Apple Hydraulics sleeve them with bronze or stainless, is the finish inside
mirror smooth the rubber piston seals won't abrade? If I had them sleeved, I
think that I would make a little polishing wheel and break out the jeweler's
rouge and polish them mirror smooth. I would do it with my old original ones
except that there are some old pits in them from long before I bought the car
for $300.
     Just curious. While it is fresh in my mind I may start picking
up parts for the next time I have to do these.


     -Bill in Tehachapi

From bill_beecher at flash.net  Sun Jul 29 22:25:17 2012
From: bill_beecher at flash.net (bill_beecher at flash.net)
Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2012 23:25:17 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 Coil Spring Length?
Message-ID: <3B000F88ED5A466FAC496C699A43AFB7@bboffice>

Measured my 3B front coil springs and they are 10.75" long, relaxed.  The
Moss catalog says they should be 9.75" or 10.25"(TR4) in length.  Any I
running any risk with this longer spring or should I just expect a little
stiffer front suspension?
 
Thanks,
Bill
 
Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby"
'62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B"
 <http://www.triumphowners.com/1566> www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow"
M.Andretti

From arakelianp at mossmotors.com  Mon Jul 30 10:21:34 2012
From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Pete Arakelian)
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2012 09:21:34 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 Clutch problem
Message-ID: <4D4FABA15328FC42B1AA0DEE4673548C86F7FD3757@DR-EX-04.datacenter.dataresolution.net>

I want to thank all for their responses.  Seems to generally support my
initial feeling that there is some sort of alignment problem with the t/o
bearing, sleeve, and nose.  We will have the dowels and disc alignment checked
as well.
It was suggested that the roll pin in the sleeve could be miss-aligned, but I
think that would self correct when force from the pressure plate is applied.
BIG support should go to Buckeye Triumphs - those folks really document
problems and fixes well.
When/if we hear of resolution to the problem I will post back to let you all
(or is all y'all) what we find.
Again, a hearty thanks to all...
Peter

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Mon Jul 30 11:17:18 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2012 10:17:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3 starter motor
Message-ID: <1343668638.48347.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

it would appear that there are a number of different assembly's of the early
TR3 bullet nose starter motors. how unusual! laugh
i have managed to
disassemble the actuator mechanism all the way down to the point where i want
to get the pinion off.
there is a fairly stiff washer holding it on. it seems
to be a 2 part washer with what the book may have called a caulked joint
holding both half's together.
having pushed the washer back against the stiff
spring i found a split ring in a grove on the shaft. removed the split ring
and thought the assembly should now come off but it appears to want to stay.
gave it a light tap with a small persuasion device but its refuses to move any
further.
are there more split rings? what am i missing?
Frank

From davewillner at pa.net  Mon Jul 30 11:22:03 2012
From: davewillner at pa.net (davewillner)
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2012 13:22:03 -0400
Subject: [TR] RadioMobile 1070x troubleshooting help
Message-ID: <D9B3BD48E57F41B78D493B4CC56B8612@valued9cfc0b6f>

If anyone has installed a RadioMobile in their TR3 successfully and had some
issues they overcome, can you contact me maybe offline? I've exhausted my
options and I'm stumped....appreciate it.

Dave Willner
Stroudsburg PA
59 TR3A
70 MGB
70 BSA 441 VS
Sometimes its better to travel than to arrive...

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jul 30 12:45:06 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2012 11:45:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Coil Spring Length?
In-Reply-To: <3B000F88ED5A466FAC496C699A43AFB7@bboffice>
References: <3B000F88ED5A466FAC496C699A43AFB7@bboffice>
Message-ID: <0d1101cd6e83$72c9a080$585ce180$@rr.com>

> Measured my 3B front coil springs and they are 10.75" long, relaxed.
> The
> Moss catalog says they should be 9.75" or 10.25"(TR4) in length.  Any I
> running any risk with this longer spring or should I just expect a
> little
> stiffer front suspension?

The risks would be being too stiff, or too soft, or too low, or too high.
Since they are the wrong springs, just the free length doesn't tell you very
much.

But changing springs isn't a horrible job, so they might be worth a try.

Just curious, do they have the spacers?

-- Randall 

From gpr at key-men.com  Mon Jul 30 16:41:15 2012
From: gpr at key-men.com (George Richardson)
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2012 18:41:15 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 starter motor
In-Reply-To: <1343668638.48347.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1343668638.48347.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <50170D8B.9000108@key-men.com>

I've seen 4 bullet nose starters besides my own 2, and they were all the 
same.

George Richardson
Key Men - Keys for Classics
www.key-men.com

On 7/30/2012 1:17 PM, Frank Fisher wrote:
> it would appear that there are a number of different assembly's of the early
> TR3 bullet nose starter motors. how unusual! laugh
> i have managed to
> disassemble the actuator mechanism all the way down to the point where i want
> to get the pinion off.
> there is a fairly stiff washer holding it on. it seems
> to be a 2 part washer with what the book may have called a caulked joint
> holding both half's together.
> having pushed the washer back against the stiff
> spring i found a split ring in a grove on the shaft. removed the split ring
> and thought the assembly should now come off but it appears to want to stay.
> gave it a light tap with a small persuasion device but its refuses to move any
> further.
> are there more split rings? what am i missing?
> Frank
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/gpr at key-men.com

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jul 30 18:43:10 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2012 17:43:10 -0700
Subject: [TR] How Long to MC's Last
In-Reply-To: <1343600902.26392.YahooMailNeo@web180902.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1343600902.26392.YahooMailNeo@web180902.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <0d8501cd6eb5$76668aa0$63339fe0$@rr.com>

>      How many times can they be rebuilt?

Depends greatly on how much metal you have to remove when you hone them.  At
some point, the bore becomes so large that even new seals won't fill it.

Don't use them with visible pits in the area where the seal rides.  The pits
will quickly wear out the sealing edge.

-- Randall 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jul 30 18:40:30 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2012 17:40:30 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 starter motor
In-Reply-To: <1343668638.48347.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1343668638.48347.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <0d8401cd6eb5$1743aee0$45cb0ca0$@rr.com>

> are there more split rings? what am i missing?

It has been a long time, but seems like I vaguely recall that some of them
had another clip inside the back end of the barrel portion of the pinion.
You had to remove that clip to remove the pinion, and then access another
clip underneath the pinion to get the rest of the drive off.

-- Randall 

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Tue Jul 31 07:37:33 2012
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2012 06:37:33 -0700
Subject: [TR] How Long to MC's Last
In-Reply-To: <0d8501cd6eb5$76668aa0$63339fe0$@rr.com>
References: <1343600902.26392.YahooMailNeo@web180902.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<0d8501cd6eb5$76668aa0$63339fe0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <5017DF9D.1080302@gmail.com>

Hydraulic systems last longer if they are used than if they just set.  
Water is the enemy.  It is absorbed by normal hydraulic fluids and 
attack the metals from inside.  Most references I've seen recommend 
draining the hydraulic fluid every 18 months and flushed with alcohol 
before pouring fresh fluid in.  You should be using a low moisture 
absorbing (LMA) brake fluid.  Changing the fluid is the secret to going 
a long time between rebuilds on a vehicle you are using.

You can rebuild them over and over again unless you get oxidation pits 
that you can not polish out. When they wear out, get them sleeved so 
they will not pit and they should last forever.

TeriAnn

From Catpusher at aol.com  Tue Jul 31 17:31:49 2012
From: Catpusher at aol.com (Catpusher at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2012 19:31:49 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Subject:  TR3 Coil Spring Length?
Message-ID: <1639b.35b705aa.3d49c4e5@aol.com>

Bill, just look in the Factory TR3B parts book LOL  
The Factory TR2/3 "workshop manual" (Service Instruction Manual), section  
H: Road Springs and Shock Absorbers, page 1, has all the info and an  
illustration of the standard and factory competition springs.  Do pay  attention 
to spacers, if fitted.
 
TR Regards,
 
Hardy
 
 
From:  <bill_beecher at flash.net>
To: "'Triumphs'"  <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR3 Coil Spring  Length?
Message-ID:  <3B000F88ED5A466FAC496C699A43AFB7 at bboffice>
Content-Type: text/plain;  charset="us-ascii"

Measured my 3B front coil springs and they are  10.75" long, relaxed.  The
Moss catalog says they should be 9.75" or  10.25"(TR4) in length.  Any I
running any risk with this longer spring  or should I just expect a little
stiffer front  suspension?

Thanks,
Bill

From wbeech at flash.net  Tue Jul 31 21:28:31 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2012 22:28:31 -0500
Subject: [TR] Subject:  TR3 Coil Spring Length?
In-Reply-To: <1639b.35b705aa.3d49c4e5@aol.com>
References: <1639b.35b705aa.3d49c4e5@aol.com>
Message-ID: <039780D3EF6148A088A44D6F54410261@bboffice>

I did look at that, and that's why I started to wonder what I had.  The
manual calls for 9.75(std.) or 9.19(comp) yet these measure 10.75".  

As Randall said, they aren't that hard to replace, so I guess I will put
them back from whence they came, spacers and all, and see how she takes the
bumps & turns.

Thanks,
Bill

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Catpusher at aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2012 6:32 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Cc: bill_beecher at flash.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Subject: TR3 Coil Spring Length?

Bill, just look in the Factory TR3B parts book LOL The Factory TR2/3
"workshop manual" (Service Instruction Manual), section
H: Road Springs and Shock Absorbers, page 1, has all the info and an
illustration of the standard and factory competition springs.  Do pay
attention to spacers, if fitted.
 
TR Regards,
 
Hardy
 
 
From:  <bill_beecher at flash.net>
To: "'Triumphs'"  <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR3 Coil Spring  Length?
Message-ID:  <3B000F88ED5A466FAC496C699A43AFB7 at bboffice>
Content-Type: text/plain;  charset="us-ascii"

Measured my 3B front coil springs and they are  10.75" long, relaxed.  The
Moss catalog says they should be 9.75" or  10.25"(TR4) in length.  Any I
running any risk with this longer spring  or should I just expect a little
stiffer front  suspension?

Thanks,
Bill

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