From JGILLIS at tcd.ie Sun Jan 1 03:51:23 2012 From: JGILLIS at tcd.ie (John Gillis) Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2012 10:51:23 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR2 door area Q's Message-ID: Happy new year all, here we go again deeper in debt but still we Triumph! OK to business; can somebody tell me what sits over the seam of the door sill and floor on the TR2, I see threshold plates on Moss, with the incorrect logo on but photos I look at in books seem to show a capping over the sill seam. The second question relates to the type of seal that adheres to the inside, below the covered panel of the door (long door) to keep out the elements. The original parts manual shows a broad U shaped seal, is this correct, what is it made of and how is it fixed in place? Thanks John From auprichard at uprichard.net Sun Jan 1 07:14:19 2012 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2012 09:14:19 -0500 Subject: [TR] Just want to be sure you guys all know the words tonight... In-Reply-To: <7C03AAFDA06A427E96259DA97EFEDDB9@bboffice> References: <20111231213156.228C51878B7@autox.team.net> <3704A48F766A4C2CB4ABEB1588D6F064@DCH6RFC1> <7C03AAFDA06A427E96259DA97EFEDDB9@bboffice> Message-ID: <7A92DC1FF9D24F399902E60F9F62EDDB@DCH6RFC1> Ah - lang may yer lum reek: long may your chimney smoke An old expression now claimed by owners of Triumph cars - long may your exhaust smoke................ -----Original Message----- From: wbeech at flash.net [mailto:wbeech at flash.net] Sent: Saturday, December 31, 2011 6:49 PM To: 'Andrew Uprichard'; 'Triumph List'; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [TR] Just want to be sure you guys all know the words tonight... OK, Andrew and "Lang may yer lum reek." Bill Bill MacKennan Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard Sent: Saturday, December 31, 2011 4:00 PM To: 'Triumph List'; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Just want to be sure you guys all know the words tonight... I spent 5 years at medical school in Edinburgh, Scotland, where New Year is known as Hogmanay and people do daft things like "first footing" - knock on the door of a stranger's house and offer him a piece of coal. Tradition dictates the owner will decline the coal, but instead offer you a drink of Scotch - either neat or with a little water. Also in Edinburgh there is an intersection of two streets - The Royal Mile and the Bridges, where young women traditionally kiss police officers at midnight. I have never seen so many cops: of course, many, like me, were students who just happened to have police costumes...... Happy Hogmanay to all. And, as the Irish say - slainte (cheers !) Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of spook01 at comcast.net Sent: Saturday, December 31, 2011 4:32 PM To: Triumph List Subject: [TR] Just want to be sure you guys all know the words tonight... Daily Mirror http://m.mirror.co.uk/article?a=m4:23669465 Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From auprichard at uprichard.net Sun Jan 1 17:00:40 2012 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2012 19:00:40 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Just want to be sure you guys all know the words tonight... In-Reply-To: <9CCC61DD86D67049B241705B6F03890B0157F610046D@HSCSEMAIL41.hscs.virginia.edu> References: <20111231213156.228C51878B7@autox.team.net><3704A48F766A4C2CB4ABEB1588D6F064@DCH6RFC1><7C03AAFDA06A427E96259DA97EFEDDB9@bboffice>, <7A92DC1FF9D24F399902E60F9F62EDDB@DCH6RFC1> <9CCC61DD86D67049B241705B6F03890B0157F610046D@HSCSEMAIL41.hscs.virginia.edu> Message-ID: Och Aye. I am Irish, and would defer to any Scot on the list, my only experience being 5 years at University there. But, despite my love for English cars, the Irish and Scots (never call them Scotch) used to unite in their teasing of the English. Andrew -----Original Message----- From: Ruffner, James A *HS [mailto:JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu] Sent: Sunday, January 01, 2012 6:03 PM To: Andrew Uprichard; wbeech at flash.net; 'Triumph List'; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [6pack] [TR] Just want to be sure you guys all know the words tonight... Never had a one of my TRs (3A, 4, and 6) smoke... But I love your greetings. Scottish saying? ________________________________________ From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard [auprichard at uprichard.net] Sent: Sunday, January 01, 2012 9:14 AM To: wbeech at flash.net; 'Triumph List'; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] Just want to be sure you guys all know the words tonight... Ah - lang may yer lum reek: long may your chimney smoke An old expression now claimed by owners of Triumph cars - long may your exhaust smoke................ -----Original Message----- From: wbeech at flash.net [mailto:wbeech at flash.net] Sent: Saturday, December 31, 2011 6:49 PM To: 'Andrew Uprichard'; 'Triumph List'; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [TR] Just want to be sure you guys all know the words tonight... OK, Andrew and "Lang may yer lum reek." Bill Bill MacKennan Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard Sent: Saturday, December 31, 2011 4:00 PM To: 'Triumph List'; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Just want to be sure you guys all know the words tonight... I spent 5 years at medical school in Edinburgh, Scotland, where New Year is known as Hogmanay and people do daft things like "first footing" - knock on the door of a stranger's house and offer him a piece of coal. Tradition dictates the owner will decline the coal, but instead offer you a drink of Scotch - either neat or with a little water. Also in Edinburgh there is an intersection of two streets - The Royal Mile and the Bridges, where young women traditionally kiss police officers at midnight. I have never seen so many cops: of course, many, like me, were students who just happened to have police costumes...... Happy Hogmanay to all. And, as the Irish say - slainte (cheers !) Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of spook01 at comcast.net Sent: Saturday, December 31, 2011 4:32 PM To: Triumph List Subject: [TR] Just want to be sure you guys all know the words tonight... Daily Mirror http://m.mirror.co.uk/article?a=m4:23669465 Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/jar7u at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu From elliottr at rmi.net Sun Jan 1 17:39:21 2012 From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott) Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2012 18:39:21 -0600 (GMT-06:00) Subject: [TR] Repro speedo cables supplier Message-ID: <10704400.1325464761808.JavaMail.root@elwamui-darkeyed.atl.sa.earthlink.net> There is also a site called www.britcot. com that has a lot of independent part makers listed. Roger Elliott -----Original Message----- >From: Don >Sent: Dec 31, 2011 2:29 PM >To: fogbro1 at comcast.net >Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net >Subject: Re: [TR] Repro speedo cables supplier > >http://www.templeoftriumph.org/Links/Vendors.html > > >On 31-Dec-11, at 12:17 PM, fogbro1 at comcast.net wrote: > >> Whatever happened to that website that had all the TR cottage >> industries listed? Is it still around? From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Jan 1 19:36:10 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 1 Jan 2012 21:36:10 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] [6pack] Just want to be sure you guys all know the words tonight... Message-ID: <3300.5fbde61b.3c32721a@cs.com> In a message dated 1/1/2012 6:09:45 PM Central Standard Time, auprichard at uprichard.net writes: > Och Aye. I am Irish, and would defer to any Scot on the list, my only > experience being 5 years at University there. But, despite my love for > English cars, the Irish and Scots (never call them Scotch) used to unite > in > their teasing of the English. > Don't forget to raise glass (of single malt, of course) on January 25th in honour of the Scottish Bard, Robbie Burns. Fair fa' your honest, sonsie face Great chieftan o' thepuddin-race! Aboon them a' ye tak your place, Painch, tripe, thairm: Weel are ye wordy of a grace As lang's my arm. Dave Clan Matheson From wbeech at flash.net Tue Jan 3 08:56:42 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2012 09:56:42 -0600 Subject: [TR] [Mg-t] SU Carb Question, epilog In-Reply-To: <20111227022623.FPFTV.84906.root@cdptpa-web03-z02> References: <20111227022623.FPFTV.84906.root@cdptpa-web03-z02> Message-ID: Spoke with Lawrie at Moss support. His examples all showed the hole to be left open, so I have drilled out the suspect carb of the pair, completed the re-build and everything runs just great. Many thanks to all that responded... I love this list! Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: krislynco.llc at roadrunner.com [mailto:krislynco.llc at roadrunner.com] Sent: Monday, December 26, 2011 8:26 PM To: wbeech at flash.net Subject: Re: [Mg-t] SU Carb Question i once had a set of su carbs that never ran right and the vent holes were the issue..... i forgot what the reason was for leaving them open and/or closed,,, but know for certain that john twist at university motors set me straight and actually in my case, for whatever reason, had me seal up the holes.... car then ran like a dream..... wow i am gettung old... i cannot remember....!! rocky d ---- wbeech at flash.net wrote: > Helping a friend re-build his H2 carbs on his TD and after disassembly > I noticed that the ring on top of the body, after removal of the > piston/slide, has two screws and two holes that vent to the outside of > the body. On one unit of these the holes have been sealed up with > JB-Weld(?) and the other unit has the holes open to the atmosphere. > > http://www.flickr.com/photos/7899895 at N08/6578318551/ > > > So, inquiring minds want to know, should these be sealed up or left open? > > TIA for all the help! > > Bill > ______________________________________________ > > Mg-t at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation > $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mg-t/krislynco.llc at roadrunner.com From JGILLIS at tcd.ie Tue Jan 3 09:38:33 2012 From: JGILLIS at tcd.ie (John Gillis) Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2012 16:38:33 +0000 Subject: [TR] Fuse Q Message-ID: Hi all, now that I can actually drive the TR2 up and down the road, a few new issues have showed themselves; the 35amp fuse blows once I drive, without me actually turning anything connected to it on, i.e wipers, heater, indicators. when the engine is not running and ignition is on, I can turn on any of the above without blowing the fuse, how can I trace this fault? Regards John From spitlist at cox.net Tue Jan 3 10:04:20 2012 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2012 10:04:20 -0700 Subject: [TR] Fuse Q In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <968E0200924E42378227CF665DF667BA@Vista> Sounds to me like you have a bare wire somewhere in the system that is intermittently touching ground when the car is running and vibrations are causing the contact. Unfortunately, there is no systematic way of troubleshooting this sort of problem short of a complete visual inspection. Joe C. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Gillis Sent: Tuesday, January 03, 2012 9:39 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Fuse Q Hi all, now that I can actually drive the TR2 up and down the road, a few new issues have showed themselves; the 35amp fuse blows once I drive, without me actually turning anything connected to it on, i.e wipers, heater, indicators. when the engine is not running and ignition is on, I can turn on any of the above without blowing the fuse, how can I trace this fault? Regards John ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Tue Jan 3 10:13:07 2012 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2012 09:13:07 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Fuse Q In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1325610787.86025.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Happy new year John, and all. i had a similar problem when i first fired up my TR3. turned out i had a minor bad cell in my battery. the control box read this as needing a charge and was pushing a full charge back at the battery. every now and again i would blow the fuse. it took me a long time to figure the problem, don't ask. I'm sure there are lots of other probabilities. Frank ________________________________ From: John Gillis To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" Sent: Tuesday, January 3, 2012 8:38 AM Subject: [TR] Fuse Q Hi all, now that I can actually drive the TR2 up and down the road, a few new issues have showed themselves; the 35amp fuse blows once I drive, without me actually turning anything connected to it on, i.e wipers, heater, indicators. when the engine is not running and ignition is on, I can turn on any of the above without blowing the fuse, how can I trace this fault? Regards John ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Tue Jan 3 10:34:14 2012 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2012 09:34:14 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Fuse Q In-Reply-To: <1325610787.86025.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1325610787.86025.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1325612054.49256.YahooMailNeo@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> but then i had a fully fused electrical system and not a partial as is normal Frank ________________________________ From: Frank Fisher To: John Gillis ; "triumphs at autox.team.net" Sent: Tuesday, January 3, 2012 9:13 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Fuse Q Happy new year John, and all. i had a similar problem when i first fired up my TR3. turned out i had a minor bad cell in my battery. the control box read this as needing a charge and was pushing a full charge back at the battery. every now and again i would blow the fuse. it took me a long time to figure the problem, don't ask. I'm sure there are lots of other probabilities. Frank ________________________________ From: John Gillis To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" Sent: Tuesday, January 3, 2012 8:38 AM Subject: [TR] Fuse Q Hi all, now that I can actually drive the TR2 up and down the road, a few new issues have showed themselves; the 35amp fuse blows once I drive, without me actually turning anything connected to it on, i.e wipers, heater, indicators. when the engine is not running and ignition is on, I can turn on any of the above without blowing the fuse, how can I trace this fault? Regards John ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From wbeech at flash.net Tue Jan 3 10:34:40 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2012 11:34:40 -0600 Subject: [TR] Fuse Q In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <519BA950-A894-4EE5-8C0D-F0CEC6A11A31@flash.net> Congrats on being on the road! Try your brake lights, you would only do this while driving? Beyond that, tracing the items on that circuit to look for suspect wiring. This is never fun.... Bill Sent from mobile Bill On Jan 3, 2012, at 10:38 AM, John Gillis wrote: > Hi all, now that I can actually drive the TR2 up and down the road, a few new > issues have showed themselves; the 35amp fuse blows once I drive, without me > actually turning anything connected to it on, i.e wipers, heater, indicators. > when the engine is not running and ignition is on, I can turn on any of the > above without blowing the fuse, how can I trace this fault? > Regards > John > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From auprichard at uprichard.net Tue Jan 3 10:38:31 2012 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2012 12:38:31 -0500 Subject: [TR] Fuse Q In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6151E4F8DB8646B6BBD2F960377504C9@DCH6RFC1> John: How many fuses does the TR2 have? The TR3 has 2, one of which is dedicated to the horns. If you have 2, which one is fusing? Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Gillis Sent: Tuesday, January 03, 2012 11:39 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Fuse Q Hi all, now that I can actually drive the TR2 up and down the road, a few new issues have showed themselves; the 35amp fuse blows once I drive, without me actually turning anything connected to it on, i.e wipers, heater, indicators. when the engine is not running and ignition is on, I can turn on any of the above without blowing the fuse, how can I trace this fault? Regards John ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jan 3 11:48:08 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2012 10:48:08 -0800 Subject: [TR] Fuse Q In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <05be01ccca48$3cd43ce0$0201a8c0@randall> I'll second the suggestion to check the brake lights. Also, there are several separate green wires connected to that fuse. It might help to disconnect them one at a time, to at least identify which area the problem is in. Another technique that I find helpful is to temporarily connect a headlight bulb in place of the fuse. If there is a short, the bulb will light brightly; but it should pass enough current to light the brake lights with the headlight bulb glowing only dimly if at all. If you run the leads out to where you can see the bulb while driving, it can show exactly when the problem happens. Or another approach is to use one of these: http://goo.gl/IzSRY in place of the fuse. It will at least keep you from having to repeatedly replace the fuse, while looking for the problem. -- Randall From JGILLIS at tcd.ie Tue Jan 3 14:20:19 2012 From: JGILLIS at tcd.ie (John Gillis) Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2012 21:20:19 +0000 Subject: [TR] Fuse Q solved but.... Message-ID: As usual ye guys hit the nail, quick trip to the garage, ignition on, push brake pedal, pop goes the fuse. I had a quick look at the connections, look OK, how do I trace this? John From wbeech at flash.net Tue Jan 3 15:02:27 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2012 16:02:27 -0600 Subject: [TR] Fuse Q solved but.... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <73723BA7CD0F4C5C898A9B57F59017A9@bboffice> Just disconnect the wires and use an ohmmeter or test light to test between the hot wires and ground. There should be no continuity with the brake not engaged. You are fortunate that there are only two light fixtures and a switch to consider. Good luck, Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Gillis Sent: Tuesday, January 03, 2012 3:20 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Fuse Q solved but.... As usual ye guys hit the nail, quick trip to the garage, ignition on, push brake pedal, pop goes the fuse. I had a quick look at the connections, look OK, how do I trace this? John ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Jan 3 15:06:19 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2012 17:06:19 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Fuse Q solved but.... Message-ID: <5005c.497bb27.3c34d5db@cs.com> In a message dated 1/3/2012 3:44:43 PM Central Standard Time, JGILLIS at tcd.ie writes: > As usual ye guys hit the nail, quick trip to the garage, ignition on, > push > brake pedal, pop goes the fuse. I had a quick look at the connections, > look > OK, how do I trace this? > Check the easy stuff first. I recommend the Headlamp Technique suggested earlier by Randall. Then you can test at will without worrying about running out of fuses. Disconnect the brake lamp wire from the brake lamp switch and test. If the lamp stays off the switch is good. Reconnect the switch and then disconnect the brake lamp wire at each brake lamp and test. If the lamp stays off when one lamp is disconnected but lights up with it is reconnected that is the culprit. If the lamp lights with either or both lamps disconnected then you have a harness short to ground. This can be a bit of a bugger if the interior has been installed. Check the harness where ever it is secured to the body by those steel tabs. The insulation may heave been cut by the sharp cut edge. Good luck Dave From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jan 3 15:14:18 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2012 14:14:18 -0800 Subject: [TR] Fuse Q solved but.... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <061601ccca65$09cb0730$0201a8c0@randall> > OK, how do I trace this? I would probably start by disconnecting the brake wire at the rear lamp, then see if the fuse still blows. Question: Are you using the original configuration, with only one brake lamp in the center? (combination brake lamp and license plate light) -- Randall From jeremiah at curryclan.net Tue Jan 3 15:10:33 2012 From: jeremiah at curryclan.net (Jeremiah Curry) Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2012 15:10:33 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 how to set valve clearance with the front apron on. Message-ID: Hi Guys, Probably an easy question I just replaced the headgasket in my TR3 and figured that since I removed the rockers, I should re-set the clearance. Last time I did that, the front apron was off and I just turned the engine over using the handcrank. Now I can't do that (hole in radiator/grill don't line up, probably because I have a TR3a radiator on a TR3) How do you turn the engine the right amount to get each cylinder TDC? Thanks, Jeremiah From darrellw360 at mac.com Tue Jan 3 15:38:09 2012 From: darrellw360 at mac.com (Darrell Walker) Date: Tue, 03 Jan 2012 14:38:09 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3 how to set valve clearance with the front apron on. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5BEC5E55-6CB3-4B36-B523-816CCBE64787@mac.com> On Jan 3, 2012, at 2:10 PM, Jeremiah Curry wrote: > How do you turn the engine the right amount to > get each cylinder TDC? Put it in gear, roll it forward. -Darrell From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jan 3 15:51:33 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2012 14:51:33 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3 how to set valve clearance with the front apron on. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <062301ccca6a$3dca1620$0201a8c0@randall> > How do you turn the engine the > right amount to > get each cylinder TDC? One method is to put the transmission in 4th gear, and roll the car a bit. -- Randall From wbeech at flash.net Tue Jan 3 15:53:16 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2012 16:53:16 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 how to set valve clearance with the front apron on. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: With the plugs removed, I can turn mine with the fan. Or, bump it with the remote button on the solenoid. Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jeremiah Curry Sent: Tuesday, January 03, 2012 4:11 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR3 how to set valve clearance with the front apron on. Hi Guys, Probably an easy question I just replaced the headgasket in my TR3 and figured that since I removed the rockers, I should re-set the clearance. Last time I did that, the front apron was off and I just turned the engine over using the handcrank. Now I can't do that (hole in radiator/grill don't line up, probably because I have a TR3a radiator on a TR3) How do you turn the engine the right amount to get each cylinder TDC? Thanks, Jeremiah ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From kinderlehrer at comcast.net Tue Jan 3 16:08:15 2012 From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer) Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2012 23:08:15 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3 how to set valve clearance with the front apron on. In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1204032159.219315.1325632095769.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Jeremiah, The method I usually use is to just hit the button on the starter solenoid and let the starter do the work. Or, I put pressure on t he fan belt with one hand and turn t he engine over by turning the fan with the other hand. You could also jack up one rear wheel, p ut the car in 4th andB rotate B t he wheel to turn over the engine. Or maybe you could shim t he motor mounts so that the crank hole lines up .B Removing the spark plugs makes it a lot easier, but I generally don'tB do that - I have an aversion to removing all the spark plugs at t he same time. Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeremiah Curry" To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Tuesday, January 3, 2012 2:10:33 PM Subject: [TR] TR3 how to set valve clearance with the front apron on. Hi Guys, B Probably an easy question B B I just replaced the headgasket in my TR3 and figured that since I removed the rockers, I should re-set the clearance. B Last time I did that, the front apron was off and I just turned the engine over using the handcrank. B Now I can't do that (hole in radiator/grill don't line up, probably because I have a TR3a radiator on a TR3) B How do you turn the engine the right amount to get each cylinder TDC? B Thanks, Jeremiah ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/kinderlehrer at comcast.net From rpeglow at optonline.net Tue Jan 3 16:21:44 2012 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Tue, 03 Jan 2012 18:21:44 -0500 Subject: [TR] Fuse Q In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Randall always finds the coolest stuff! Regards, Bob "Or another approach is to use one of these: http://goo.gl/IzSRY in place of the fuse. It will at least keep you from having to repeatedly replace the fuse, while looking for the problem. -- Randall" From sumton at sbcglobal.net Tue Jan 3 21:59:02 2012 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2012 22:59:02 -0600 Subject: [TR] 63 TR4 Message-ID: <8E2EE3FAAF104E6FB2075A5B264DD8A6@ranteer.local> 3 questions! 1. the dpo painted things like the thermostat housing with red paint. I've got most of it off using steel wool, brake fluid, and scrubbies. bits remain here and there. any suggestions? 2. the starter solenoid button does not work. should I replace it or see if I can fix it? real question - is this difficult to disassemble/fix? 3. finally - engine does turn over with the key (miracle given the numerous wiring splices, changes, and additions). according to my multimeter, I have power (12 v +) to the coil, but no spark beyond that. I hold the lead from the coil next to the valve cover, crank the engine, and get no spark. bad coil likely? I think I have another one (OK. I do - its on another car) that I can swap. or is there a more serious issue? car is now negative ground, has a 6 fuse box, electric fan, electric fuel pump, backup lights, and probably other "customizations." was in a garage for about 20 years. pretty much nothing works except one of the backup lights stays on when the battery is connected! and most of the colors don't match the wiring diagram. From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Wed Jan 4 04:17:43 2012 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2012 05:17:43 -0600 Subject: [TR] [Shop-talk] What fun - O2 sensor In-Reply-To: <2CF3704E600040789896CE0C0B528D1C@Dell2010Watson> References: <4F0290EF.2040304@bradakis.com>, <4F03156E.8070009@gmail.com><4F032C09.5090300@comcast.net><9B1F9FBC298C466BA8DE72B50CED8D59@OwnerPC><4F035098.3000700@gmail.com>, <4F03E7A1.7070806@bradakis.com>, <2CF3704E600040789896CE0C0B528D1C@Dell2010Watson> Message-ID: > >And on a side note I'll refrain from any more electrical puns, that topic > >won't stay current for long. > > >mjb. I find your restraint shocking. Rich White Central, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF###L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! From aljlthomson at charter.net Wed Jan 4 04:18:55 2012 From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson) Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2012 06:18:55 -0500 Subject: [TR] 63 TR4 In-Reply-To: <8E2EE3FAAF104E6FB2075A5B264DD8A6@ranteer.local> References: <8E2EE3FAAF104E6FB2075A5B264DD8A6@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <000301cccad2$a5477b90$efd672b0$@charter.net> Regarding # 3 - Turn the engine over so that the ignition points are closed. Check for voltage between ground and the 12V terminal on the coil that is connected to the side of the distributor. There should be no voltage at that time. If there is, the points may be corroded, not properly adjusted, or otherwise not grounding out as they should. Ground the points directly with a probe or screwdriver - that should cause a spark at the coil output terminal when the grounding is interrupted if the coil is good. Also, turn the engine over so the points are open. There now should be 12V between ground and the coil terminal that is connected to the distributor. If not, then the coil has an internal break. Alex Thomson -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of oliver Sent: Tuesday, January 03, 2012 11:59 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] 63 TR4 3 questions! 1. the dpo painted things like the thermostat housing with red paint. I've got most of it off using steel wool, brake fluid, and scrubbies. bits remain here and there. any suggestions? 2. the starter solenoid button does not work. should I replace it or see if I can fix it? real question - is this difficult to disassemble/fix? 3. finally - engine does turn over with the key (miracle given the numerous wiring splices, changes, and additions). according to my multimeter, I have power (12 v +) to the coil, but no spark beyond that. I hold the lead from the coil next to the valve cover, crank the engine, and get no spark. bad coil likely? I think I have another one (OK. I do - its on another car) that I can swap. or is there a more serious issue? car is now negative ground, has a 6 fuse box, electric fan, electric fuel pump, backup lights, and probably other "customizations." was in a garage for about 20 years. pretty much nothing works except one of the backup lights stays on when the battery is connected! and most of the colors don't match the wiring diagram. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Jan 4 06:21:10 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2012 08:21:10 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] 63 TR4 Message-ID: <3d68a.680f0a9b.3c35ac46@cs.com> In a message dated 1/4/2012 5:34:37 AM Central Standard Time, aljlthomson at charter.net writes: > Regarding # 3 - Turn the engine over so that the ignition points are > closed. > Check for voltage between ground and the 12V terminal on the coil that is > connected to the side of the distributor. There should be no voltage at > that > time. If there is, the points may be corroded, not properly adjusted, or > otherwise not grounding out as they should. Ground the points directly > with > a probe or screwdriver - that should cause a spark at the coil output > terminal when the grounding is interrupted if the coil is good. Also, turn > the engine over so the points are open. There now should be 12V between > ground and the coil terminal that is connected to the distributor. If not, > then the coil has an internal break. > All good information except for one typo, I'm sure. With the points closed there should be no voltage between the coil terminal -connected to the distributor- and ground. The 12 volt terminal on the coil should always have 12 volts when the key is on. Alternatively you can measure the voltage across the coil with the points open and then with the points closed. If you don't get voltage across the coil with the points closed it might be something as simple as the broken wire between the coil and distributor, a broken wire in the distributor between the terminal and the points or a broken breaker plate grounding wire. If you get a constant 12 volts it may be just incorrect assembly of the points/condensor/wire which is quite common. Dave From yellowtr at adelphia.net Wed Jan 4 07:23:44 2012 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Wed, 04 Jan 2012 09:23:44 -0500 Subject: [TR] 63 TR4 In-Reply-To: <8E2EE3FAAF104E6FB2075A5B264DD8A6@ranteer.local> References: <8E2EE3FAAF104E6FB2075A5B264DD8A6@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <4F0460F0.2070902@adelphia.net> Oliver, On 01/03/2012 11:59 PM, oliver wrote: > 3 questions! > > 1. the dpo painted things like the thermostat housing with red paint. I've > got most of it off using steel wool, brake fluid, and scrubbies. bits remain > here and there. any suggestions? I sandblasted with glass beads. Glass works wonders on those AL castings. > 2. the starter solenoid button does not work. should I replace it or see if > I can fix it? real question - is this difficult to disassemble/fix? I have never seen this happen. Have no idea if they come apart easily. Better just to get a new one from the big 3. > 3. finally - engine does turn over with the key (miracle given the numerous > wiring splices, changes, and additions). according to my multimeter, I have > power (12 v +) to the coil, but no spark beyond that. I hold the lead from > the coil next to the valve cover, crank the engine, and get no spark. bad > coil likely? I think I have another one (OK. I do - its on another car) that > I can swap. or is there a more serious issue? Do you have the coil connected correctly? With a negative ground the white wire should connect to the + terminal and the other to the distributor. Measure the resistance at the coil, should be 3 ohms. If that is ok, take the distributor cap off and turn on the ignition and manually open and close the points. There should be a spark when you open the points. If not maybe the distributor is faulty. Check that little wire that goes from the 12V connection at the back of the distributor to the points, it is very fragile and could be broken. > car is now negative ground, has a 6 fuse box, electric fan, electric fuel > pump, backup lights, and probably other "customizations." was in a garage for > about 20 years. pretty much nothing works except one of the backup lights > stays on when the battery is connected! and most of the colors don't match > the wiring diagram. Seems to be the wrong wiring harness. If the wires don't match the colored version (Dan Masters) of the diagram then maybe it is time to start with a new wiring harness. I have a used one but I am unsure if it is any good and I don't know if it is a 4 or 4A. Bob From darrellw360 at mac.com Wed Jan 4 07:33:26 2012 From: darrellw360 at mac.com (Darrell Walker) Date: Wed, 04 Jan 2012 06:33:26 -0800 Subject: [TR] 63 TR4 In-Reply-To: <8E2EE3FAAF104E6FB2075A5B264DD8A6@ranteer.local> References: <8E2EE3FAAF104E6FB2075A5B264DD8A6@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <0646C132-DC2F-4229-8F28-26B4F51BF6DC@mac.com> On Jan 3, 2012, at 8:59 PM, oliver wrote: > 1. the dpo painted things like the thermostat housing with red paint. I've > got most of it off using steel wool, brake fluid, and scrubbies. bits remain > here and there. any suggestions? Hi Oliver, While brake fluid does attack paint, I think a proper paint stripper product might work better. I like the citrus-based ones, as they don't smell so bad. -Darrell -- Darrell Walker 66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L 81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206 Vancouver, WA, USA From zoboherald at aol.com Wed Jan 4 08:28:24 2012 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace) Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2012 10:28:24 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] 63 TR4 In-Reply-To: <8E2EE3FAAF104E6FB2075A5B264DD8A6@ranteer.local> References: <8E2EE3FAAF104E6FB2075A5B264DD8A6@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <8CE990CA1ED7BCD-1A50-1C3E6@Webmail-d105.sysops.aol.com> Just a thought on the solenoid: try soaking it with some WD-40 or similar. You've nothing to lose, and you might just free up the button in the process. Those old barrel-style solenoids actually were pretty darned tough and durable! (And, if you're O/C about it, I think replacement rubber button covers are still available from places like Holden in the UK.) --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us -----Original Message----- From: oliver 2. the starter solenoid button does not work. should I replace it or see ifI can fix it? real question - is this difficult to disassemble/fix? From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jan 4 09:12:36 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2012 08:12:36 -0800 Subject: [TR] 63 TR4 In-Reply-To: <000301cccad2$a5477b90$efd672b0$@charter.net> References: <8E2EE3FAAF104E6FB2075A5B264DD8A6@ranteer.local> <000301cccad2$a5477b90$efd672b0$@charter.net> Message-ID: <071301cccafb$ad0ec490$0201a8c0@randall> > Regarding # 3 - Turn the engine over so that the ignition > points are closed. > Check for voltage between ground and the 12V terminal on the > coil that is > connected to the side of the distributor. There should be no > voltage at that > time. While you're at it, also check for 12V between the other low tension coil terminal (the one connected to the harness) and ground. Although not a common problem, it is possible for a bad connection or contact to pass enough current to read 12v with the points open, but not enough to power the coil. -- Randall From wbeech at flash.net Wed Jan 4 09:18:29 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2012 10:18:29 -0600 Subject: [TR] eBay UK Message-ID: <7DC37B20D9CC4859B93376B158D9CF25@bboffice> Thought I would browse the TRs for sale in the UK but I cannot seem to get the right URL for the site. Anyone got that? Thx, Bill From wbeech at flash.net Wed Jan 4 09:39:54 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2012 10:39:54 -0600 Subject: [TR] eBay UK Message-ID: <1FF4A5364F774A71818B580FB86C4AA5@bboffice> I found it: www.ebay.co.uk I thought I had already tried that, but this time it worked! Sounds like some of my diagnostic adventures. Thx, Bill ________________________________ From: wbeech at flash.net [mailto:wbeech at flash.net] Sent: Wednesday, January 04, 2012 10:18 AM To: 'triumphs at autox.team.net' Subject: eBay UK Thought I would browse the TRs for sale in the UK but I cannot seem to get the right URL for the site. Anyone got that? Thx, Bill From cartr4a at ameritech.net Wed Jan 4 09:51:46 2012 From: cartr4a at ameritech.net (Jim) Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2012 08:51:46 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] eBay UK In-Reply-To: <7DC37B20D9CC4859B93376B158D9CF25@bboffice> Message-ID: <1325695906.36977.YahooMailClassic@web80201.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Try this... http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=Triumph&_sacat=9801&_stpos=&gbr=1&_dmpt =Automobiles_UK&_odkw=&_osacat=9801&_trksid=p3286.c0.m270.l1313 --- On Wed, 1/4/12, wbeech at flash.net wrote: From: wbeech at flash.net Subject: [TR] eBay UK To: triumphs at autox.team.net Date: Wednesday, January 4, 2012, 10:18 AM Thought I would browse the TRs for sale in the UK but I cannot seem to get the right URL for the site. Anyone got that? Thx, Bill From cartr4a at ameritech.net Wed Jan 4 09:56:07 2012 From: cartr4a at ameritech.net (Jim) Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2012 08:56:07 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] eBay UK In-Reply-To: <7DC37B20D9CC4859B93376B158D9CF25@bboffice> Message-ID: <1325696167.78455.YahooMailClassic@web80203.mail.mud.yahoo.com> This is a better link... http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/Classic-Cars-/29751/i.html?_nkw=triumph&_catref=1&_ dmpt=UK_Motorcycles&_trksid=p3286.c0.m1538 --- On Wed, 1/4/12, wbeech at flash.net wrote: From: wbeech at flash.net Subject: [TR] eBay UK To: triumphs at autox.team.net Date: Wednesday, January 4, 2012, 10:18 AM Thought I would browse the TRs for sale in the UK but I cannot seem to get the right URL for the site. Anyone got that? Thx, Bill From wbeech at flash.net Wed Jan 4 14:46:16 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2012 15:46:16 -0600 Subject: [TR] flex Hose Message-ID: ISTR that the flex hose to the clutch slave cylinder and the flex hose in the oil pressure line were the same hoses with the same fittings. Is this correct? Thanks, Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" From keithstewart at execulink.com Wed Jan 4 15:21:57 2012 From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart) Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2012 17:21:57 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Front Badge Spacing In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3A2DB129-AF76-431D-BB95-B6A14622CBCB@execulink.com> Anyone have any experience with the stud spacing on TR3 and TR3A front badges? My 57TR3 came with an incorrect front badge (no T-R-I-U-M-P-H lettering on the lower edge). While doing some body/paint work this past winter, I obtained a new correct badge (with T-R-I-U-M-P-H lettering across the bottom of the badge). When I went to switch over the emblems, I discovered the one without lettering has the studs spaced 2 1/2" on center but the replacement badge has the studs spaced 2 5/8" on center. Does anyone have experience with the dimensions? Is the problem potentially with the repro or the holes in the front apron? TIA for your feedback. Keith R. Stewart 75 Camden Road London, Ontario N5X 2K2 Home: (519) 660-1916 E-Mail: keithstewart at execulink.com From tr3a.60 at gmail.com Wed Jan 4 15:22:59 2012 From: tr3a.60 at gmail.com (John Wise) Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2012 17:22:59 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A Oil pressure Message-ID: Over the weekend I did my annual oil & filter change on the 60 TR3A. I decided to try some Mobil-1 15w50. I have a bunch of it as I use in in my old 911. I was driving into work this morning in the TR & I noticed the oil pressure was about 60 psi as cruise RPM, with the engine temp at a normal 180F and outside air temp about 35F. (Life is really tough in Florida). I was just wondering if 60psi was normal in this conditions? Thanks John John A. Wise Ormond Beach, FL 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From wbeech at flash.net Wed Jan 4 15:50:37 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2012 16:50:37 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3A Oil pressure In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <830167FA26434C589B02B9418E26A46E@bboffice> John, Sounds very normal at full operating temps, I use 20-50 with about the same pressure in my new re-build with 3,000 miles. Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Wise Sent: Wednesday, January 04, 2012 4:23 PM To: car discussion Sports Triumph Subject: [TR] TR3A Oil pressure Over the weekend I did my annual oil & filter change on the 60 TR3A. I decided to try some Mobil-1 15w50. I have a bunch of it as I use in in my old 911. I was driving into work this morning in the TR & I noticed the oil pressure was about 60 psi as cruise RPM, with the engine temp at a normal 180F and outside air temp about 35F. (Life is really tough in Florida). I was just wondering if 60psi was normal in this conditions? Thanks John John A. Wise Ormond Beach, FL 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jan 4 16:10:20 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2012 15:10:20 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3A Oil pressure In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <008001cccb36$084f0290$18ed07b0$@rr.com> > I was just wondering if 60psi was normal in this conditions? Seems a bit on the low side to me, but likely not anything to be overly concerned about. What reading did you get at cruise before switching to Mobil 1? -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jan 4 16:14:41 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2012 15:14:41 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3 Front Badge Spacing In-Reply-To: <3A2DB129-AF76-431D-BB95-B6A14622CBCB@execulink.com> References: <3A2DB129-AF76-431D-BB95-B6A14622CBCB@execulink.com> Message-ID: <008101cccb36$a46a8aa0$ed3f9fe0$@rr.com> > When I went to switch over the emblems, I discovered the one > without > lettering has the studs spaced 2 1/2" on center but the replacement > badge has > the studs spaced 2 5/8" on center. My badge with letters fit both a TR3 and TR3A front apron. That would lead me to believe that your badge is the problem; but it might just be a matter of tolerances stacking up. For only 1/8", my approach would be to take a few strokes with a rat-tail file in each hole, until the badge fit. Add a dab of paint or grease to cover the raw edges (which will be hidden by the badge). -- Randall From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Wed Jan 4 16:16:40 2012 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2012 15:16:40 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] TR3 Front Badge Spacing In-Reply-To: <3A2DB129-AF76-431D-BB95-B6A14622CBCB@execulink.com> References: <3A2DB129-AF76-431D-BB95-B6A14622CBCB@execulink.com> Message-ID: <1325719000.25685.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> i too had that kind of experience. my car is a December 58 wide mouth. i obtained a small mouth apron as i like the look of the TR2. having lost the "originality" i just continued to make the car look good for me. staying with austerity i reused the front badge with the original TR3 badge with no t-r-i-u-m-p-h at the bottom. it fit perfectly into the small mouth. recently a friend bought me a roadster factory TR2 badge with the triumph name across the bottom. it was about 1/8 longer between mounting tabs. a simple rat tail file opened up the holes in the apron and a little touch up paint will never be seen. Frank From: Keith Stewart To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, January 4, 2012 2:21 PM Subject: [TR] TR3 Front Badge Spacing Anyone have any experience with the stud spacing on TR3 and TR3A front badges? My 57TR3 came with an incorrect front badge (no T-R-I-U-M-P-H lettering on the lower edge). While doing some body/paint work this past winter, I obtained a new correct badge (with T-R-I-U-M-P-H lettering across the bottom of the badge). When I went to switch over the emblems, I discovered the one without lettering has the studs spaced 2 1/2" on center but the replacement badge has the studs spaced 2 5/8" on center. Does anyone have experience with the dimensions? Is the problem potentially with the repro or the holes in the front apron? TIA for your feedback. Keith R. Stewart 75 Camden Road London, Ontario N5X 2K2 Home: (519) 660-1916 E-Mail: keithstewart at execulink.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jan 4 16:18:58 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2012 15:18:58 -0800 Subject: [TR] flex Hose In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <008801cccb37$3cf2b2c0$b6d81840$@rr.com> > ISTR that the flex hose to the clutch slave cylinder and the flex hose > in > the oil pressure line were the same hoses with the same fittings. > > Is this correct? I don't believe so. ISTR the clutch slave fitting uses a flat copper washer, while the oil line has flare fittings on both ends. The inside diameter of the oil line is smaller too, I think. -- Randall From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Wed Jan 4 16:20:28 2012 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2012 15:20:28 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] TR3A Oil pressure In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1325719228.52273.YahooMailNeo@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> John i have been using 50 weight Valvoline racing oil in my TR3. it runs about 75 psi at cold and 180F driving. at hot idle it drops to about 20psi and that continues to make me uncomfortable. though Randall tells me its fine and I'm sticking with it. Frank From: John Wise To: car discussion Sports Triumph Sent: Wednesday, January 4, 2012 2:22 PM Subject: [TR] TR3A Oil pressure Over the weekend I did my annual oil & filter change on the 60 TR3A. I decided to try some Mobil-1 15w50. I have a bunch of it as I use in in my old 911. I was driving into work this morning in the TR & I noticed the oil pressure was about 60 psi as cruise RPM, with the engine temp at a normal 180F and outside air temp about 35F. (Life is really tough in Florida). I was just wondering if 60psi was normal in this conditions? Thanks John John A. Wise Ormond Beach, FL 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From keithstewart at execulink.com Wed Jan 4 16:21:03 2012 From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart) Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2012 18:21:03 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Front Badge Spacing In-Reply-To: <008101cccb36$a46a8aa0$ed3f9fe0$@rr.com> References: <3A2DB129-AF76-431D-BB95-B6A14622CBCB@execulink.com> <008101cccb36$a46a8aa0$ed3f9fe0$@rr.com> Message-ID: Randall, thanks for answering what was to become my next question if I need to make it fit. I was wondering if the repro was off size and there were others out there that were correct dimensions, a replacement would be in order. Otherwise, next step - as you anticipated - would be to make it fit. Interestingly, the top hole in the apron is not totally circular as is the bottom one. It is already elongated. Since I just had the apron painted, I was not real keen on enlarging the holes but it may well be necessary. Thanks for your suggestions. Keith R. Stewart 75 Camden Road London, Ontario N5X 2K2 Home: (519) 660-1916 E-Mail: keithstewart at execulink.com On 2012-01-04, at 6:14 PM, Randall wrote: >> When I went to switch over the emblems, I discovered the one >> without >> lettering has the studs spaced 2 1/2" on center but the replacement >> badge has >> the studs spaced 2 5/8" on center. > > My badge with letters fit both a TR3 and TR3A front apron. That would lead > me to believe that your badge is the problem; but it might just be a matter > of tolerances stacking up. For only 1/8", my approach would be to take a > few strokes with a rat-tail file in each hole, until the badge fit. Add a > dab of paint or grease to cover the raw edges (which will be hidden by the > badge). > > -- Randall From keithstewart at execulink.com Wed Jan 4 16:27:13 2012 From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart) Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2012 18:27:13 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Front Badge Spacing In-Reply-To: <1325719000.25685.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <3A2DB129-AF76-431D-BB95-B6A14622CBCB@execulink.com> <1325719000.25685.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <7FBAB5DA-E596-4A04-95AE-3ADA1CEB8959@execulink.com> Thanks for the input Frank. To qualify your experience, the holes in the TR2/3/3A were all the same but the TR2 badge from TRF had a greater distance between the studs. Interestingly, the repro I obtained was also from TRF. I wonder if there are repros being made with the correct spacing. Keith R. Stewart 75 Camden Road London, Ontario N5X 2K2 Home: (519) 660-1916 E-Mail: keithstewart at execulink.com On 2012-01-04, at 6:16 PM, Frank Fisher wrote: > i too had that kind of experience. > my car is a December 58 wide mouth. > i obtained a small mouth apron as i like the look of the TR2. > having lost the "originality" i just continued to make the car look good for me. > staying with austerity i reused the front badge with the original TR3 badge with no t-r-i-u-m-p-h at the bottom. > it fit perfectly into the small mouth. > recently a friend bought me a roadster factory TR2 badge with the triumph name across the bottom. > it was about 1/8 longer between mounting tabs. > a simple rat tail file opened up the holes in the apron and a little touch up paint will never be seen. > Frank > > From: Keith Stewart > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Wednesday, January 4, 2012 2:21 PM > Subject: [TR] TR3 Front Badge Spacing > > Anyone have any experience with the stud spacing on TR3 and TR3A front badges? > My 57TR3 came with an incorrect front badge (no T-R-I-U-M-P-H lettering on the > lower edge). While doing some body/paint work this past winter, I obtained a > new correct badge (with T-R-I-U-M-P-H lettering across the bottom of the > badge). When I went to switch over the emblems, I discovered the one without > lettering has the studs spaced 2 1/2" on center but the replacement badge has > the studs spaced 2 5/8" on center. > > Does anyone have experience with the dimensions? Is the problem potentially > with the repro or the holes in the front apron? TIA for your feedback. > > Keith R. Stewart > 75 Camden Road > London, Ontario > N5X 2K2 > Home: (519) 660-1916 > E-Mail: keithstewart at execulink.com > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Wed Jan 4 16:34:51 2012 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2012 16:34:51 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Oil pressure In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Oil pressure sounds normal to me, outside temperature sounds low. Had a record 80* on New years Day here. Geo On Wed, Jan 4, 2012 at 3:22 PM, John Wise wrote: > I was driving into work this morning in the TR & I noticed the oil pressure > was about 60 psi as cruise RPM, with the engine temp at a normal 180F and > outside air temp about 35F. (Life is really tough in Florida). From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Wed Jan 4 17:32:22 2012 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2012 16:32:22 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] TR3 Front Badge Spacing In-Reply-To: <7FBAB5DA-E596-4A04-95AE-3ADA1CEB8959@execulink.com> References: <3A2DB129-AF76-431D-BB95-B6A14622CBCB@execulink.com> <1325719000.25685.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <7FBAB5DA-E596-4A04-95AE-3ADA1CEB8959@execulink.com> Message-ID: <1325723542.54132.YahooMailNeo@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> that's correct Keith. same spacing for all the aprons i tried on my car. 5 in all. From: Keith Stewart To: Frank Fisher Cc: "triumphs at autox.team.net" Sent: Wednesday, January 4, 2012 3:27 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Front Badge Spacing Thanks for the input Frank. To qualify your experience, the holes in the TR2/3/3A were all the same but the TR2 badge from TRF had a greater distance between the studs. Interestingly, the repro I obtained was also from TRF. I wonder if there are repros being made with the correct spacing. Keith R. Stewart 75 Camden Road London, Ontario N5X 2K2 Home: (519) 660-1916 E-Mail: keithstewart at execulink.com On 2012-01-04, at 6:16 PM, Frank Fisher wrote: i too had that kind of experience. >my car is a December 58 wide mouth. >i obtained a small mouth apron as i like the look of the TR2. >having lost the "originality" i just continued to make the car look good for me. >staying with austerity i reused the front badge with the original TR3 badge with no t-r-i-u-m-p-h at the bottom. >it fit perfectly into the small mouth. >recently a friend bought me a roadster factory TR2 badge with the triumph name across the bottom. >it was about 1/8 longer between mounting tabs. >a simple rat tail file opened up the holes in the apron and a little touch up paint will never be seen. >Frank > > >From: Keith Stewart >To: triumphs at autox.team.net >Sent: Wednesday, January 4, 2012 2:21 PM >Subject: [TR] TR3 Front Badge Spacing > >Anyone have any experience with the stud spacing on TR3 and TR3A front badges? >My 57TR3 came with an incorrect front badge (no T-R-I-U-M-P-H lettering on the >lower edge). While doing some body/paint work this past winter, I obtained a >new correct badge (with T-R-I-U-M-P-H lettering across the bottom of the >badge). When I went to switch over the emblems, I discovered the one without >lettering has the studs spaced 2 1/2" on center but the replacement badge has >the studs spaced 2 5/8" on center. > >Does anyone have experience with the dimensions? Is the problem potentially >with the repro or the holes in the front apron? TIA for your feedback. > >Keith R. Stewart >75 Camden Road >London, Ontario >N5X 2K2 >Home: (519) 660-1916 >E-Mail: keithstewart at execulink.com > >** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From keithstewart at execulink.com Wed Jan 4 18:22:56 2012 From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart) Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2012 20:22:56 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Front Badge Spacing In-Reply-To: <1325723542.54132.YahooMailNeo@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <3A2DB129-AF76-431D-BB95-B6A14622CBCB@execulink.com> <1325719000.25685.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <7FBAB5DA-E596-4A04-95AE-3ADA1CEB8959@execulink.com> <1325723542.54132.YahooMailNeo@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: What is interesting about the lower stud on both badges is that they appear to be brazed in place and it is so obvious that the lower stud is misplaced. On the repro one that appears to be incorrect, the stud is almost centered at the bottom of the "v"s cast into the surface whereas the correct fitting one has the stud the full width of the stud closer to the top stud. IOTW, if you knew where it should be, it is very obvious you are not placing it in that location. Keith R. Stewart 75 Camden Road London, Ontario N5X 2K2 Home: (519) 660-1916 E-Mail: keithstewart at execulink.com On 2012-01-04, at 7:32 PM, Frank Fisher wrote: > that's correct Keith. > same spacing for all the aprons i tried on my car. 5 in all. > > > From: Keith Stewart > To: Frank Fisher > Cc: "triumphs at autox.team.net" > Sent: Wednesday, January 4, 2012 3:27 PM > Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Front Badge Spacing > > Thanks for the input Frank. To qualify your experience, the holes in the TR2/3/3A were all the same but the TR2 badge from TRF had a greater distance between the studs. Interestingly, the repro I obtained was also from TRF. I wonder if there are repros being made with the correct spacing. > > Keith R. Stewart > 75 Camden Road > London, Ontario > N5X 2K2 > Home: (519) 660-1916 > E-Mail: keithstewart at execulink.com > > > > > > On 2012-01-04, at 6:16 PM, Frank Fisher wrote: > >> i too had that kind of experience. >> my car is a December 58 wide mouth. >> i obtained a small mouth apron as i like the look of the TR2. >> having lost the "originality" i just continued to make the car look good for me. >> staying with austerity i reused the front badge with the original TR3 badge with no t-r-i-u-m-p-h at the bottom. >> it fit perfectly into the small mouth. >> recently a friend bought me a roadster factory TR2 badge with the triumph name across the bottom. >> it was about 1/8 longer between mounting tabs. >> a simple rat tail file opened up the holes in the apron and a little touch up paint will never be seen. >> Frank >> >> From: Keith Stewart >> To: triumphs at autox.team.net >> Sent: Wednesday, January 4, 2012 2:21 PM >> Subject: [TR] TR3 Front Badge Spacing >> >> Anyone have any experience with the stud spacing on TR3 and TR3A front badges? >> My 57TR3 came with an incorrect front badge (no T-R-I-U-M-P-H lettering on the >> lower edge). While doing some body/paint work this past winter, I obtained a >> new correct badge (with T-R-I-U-M-P-H lettering across the bottom of the >> badge). When I went to switch over the emblems, I discovered the one without >> lettering has the studs spaced 2 1/2" on center but the replacement badge has >> the studs spaced 2 5/8" on center. >> >> Does anyone have experience with the dimensions? Is the problem potentially >> with the repro or the holes in the front apron? TIA for your feedback. >> >> Keith R. Stewart >> 75 Camden Road >> London, Ontario >> N5X 2K2 >> Home: (519) 660-1916 >> E-Mail: keithstewart at execulink.com >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jan 4 19:13:29 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 4 Jan 2012 18:13:29 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3A Oil pressure In-Reply-To: <1325719228.52273.YahooMailNeo@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1325719228.52273.YahooMailNeo@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <00c701cccb4f$9e84cce0$db8e66a0$@rr.com> > at hot idle it drops to about 20psi and that > continues to make me uncomfortable. If it bugs you, try stuffing some new bearing inserts in it. You can do the rod bearings with the engine still in the car, takes a half day or so (less if you work quickly, which I don't). I've even been known to change the main bearings that way, although I didn't last time. Whether you can do the rear main may depend on which flywheel you have installed; I've always been able to get the cap off but some folks say it won't fit. After changing the rod bearings, my pressure at hot idle went from under 10 psi to around 20-30, which I'm comfortable with for the moment. Eventually I'll give the engine a proper rebuild, but for the moment it's running good and "ain't broke". One of my previous TRs showed basically NO pressure at hot idle when I got the car. DPO evidently never changed the oil, just drove the car until it wouldn't run any more, then left it in his Mom's back yard and moved away. I drove it all summer that way with no apparent ill effects. But it was badly down on power (especially at lower rpm), so we put a different motor in it the next winter. -- Randall From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Thu Jan 5 04:23:15 2012 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Thu, 5 Jan 2012 06:23:15 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A Oil pressure In-Reply-To: <00c701cccb4f$9e84cce0$db8e66a0$@rr.com> References: <1325719228.52273.YahooMailNeo@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <00c701cccb4f$9e84cce0$db8e66a0$@rr.com> Message-ID: While you are in there also make sure the oil pump clearances are correct and on the tight side. -----Original Message----- From: Randall Sent: Wednesday, January 04, 2012 9:13 PM To: 'car discussion Sports Triumph' Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Oil pressure > at hot idle it drops to about 20psi and that > continues to make me uncomfortable. If it bugs you, try stuffing some new bearing inserts in it. You can do the rod bearings with the engine still in the car, takes a half day or so (less if you work quickly, which I don't). I've even been known to change the main bearings that way, although I didn't last time. Whether you can do the rear main may depend on which flywheel you have installed; I've always been able to get the cap off but some folks say it won't fit. After changing the rod bearings, my pressure at hot idle went from under 10 psi to around 20-30, which I'm comfortable with for the moment. Eventually I'll give the engine a proper rebuild, but for the moment it's running good and "ain't broke". One of my previous TRs showed basically NO pressure at hot idle when I got the car. DPO evidently never changed the oil, just drove the car until it wouldn't run any more, then left it in his Mom's back yard and moved away. I drove it all summer that way with no apparent ill effects. But it was badly down on power (especially at lower rpm), so we put a different motor in it the next winter. -- Randall From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk Thu Jan 5 05:21:44 2012 From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Thu, 5 Jan 2012 12:21:44 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] TR3A Oil pressure In-Reply-To: References: <1325719228.52273.YahooMailNeo@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <00c701cccb4f$9e84cce0$db8e66a0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <1325766104.34371.YahooMailNeo@web29401.mail.ird.yahoo.com> ISTR that hot idle oil pressure of 20-30psi was normal on the four pot engine when it was new and running on a 20W/50 mineral oil like Duckhams, Castrol and Shell. Only use synthetic in the family Kia and Hyundai through necessity. Jonmac http://standard-triumph-books.co.uk >________________________________ > From: Jerry Van Vlack >To: Randall ; 'car discussion Sports Triumph' >Sent: Thursday, 5 January 2012, 11:23 >Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Oil pressure > >While you are in there also make sure the oil pump clearances are correct and on the tight side. > >-----Original Message----- From: Randall >Sent: Wednesday, January 04, 2012 9:13 PM >To: 'car discussion Sports Triumph' >Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Oil pressure > >> at hot idle it drops to about 20psi and that >> continues to make me uncomfortable. > >If it bugs you, try stuffing some new bearing inserts in it. You can do the >rod bearings with the engine still in the car, takes a half day or so (less >if you work quickly, which I don't). > >I've even been known to change the main bearings that way, although I didn't >last time. Whether you can do the rear main may depend on which flywheel >you have installed; I've always been able to get the cap off but some folks >say it won't fit. > >After changing the rod bearings, my pressure at hot idle went from under 10 >psi to around 20-30, which I'm comfortable with for the moment. Eventually >I'll give the engine a proper rebuild, but for the moment it's running good >and "ain't broke". > >One of my previous TRs showed basically NO pressure at hot idle when I got >the car. DPO evidently never changed the oil, just drove the car until it >wouldn't run any more, then left it in his Mom's back yard and moved away. >I drove it all summer that way with no apparent ill effects. But it was >badly down on power (especially at lower rpm), so we put a different motor >in it the next winter. > >-- Randall > >** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk From bill_beecher at flash.net Thu Jan 5 08:38:30 2012 From: bill_beecher at flash.net (bill_beecher at flash.net) Date: Thu, 5 Jan 2012 09:38:30 -0600 Subject: [TR] Looking for a RHD TR Message-ID: Hello List, I am starting to get the 'project itch' again and have always wanted a RHD LBC. Does anyone have or know of a good TR2-3A(I presume all 3Bs were LHD?) with RHD that would either be a very nice driver or good restoration candidate? Happy New Year, Bill From pethier at comcast.net Thu Jan 5 10:40:18 2012 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 5 Jan 2012 17:40:18 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] [British-cars] Looking for a RHD TR In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <336633020.304853.1325785218281.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> You taking a job with the post office? Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://www.mnautox.com ----- Original Message ----- > From: "bill beecher" > I am starting to get the 'project itch' again and have always wanted a > RHD > LBC. Does anyone have or know of a good TR2-3A(I presume all 3Bs were > LHD?) > with RHD that would either be a very nice driver or good restoration > candidate? > > Happy New Year, > Bill From bill_beecher at flash.net Thu Jan 5 10:56:54 2012 From: bill_beecher at flash.net (bill_beecher at flash.net) Date: Thu, 5 Jan 2012 11:56:54 -0600 Subject: [TR] [British-cars] Looking for a RHD TR In-Reply-To: <336633020.304853.1325785218281.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <336633020.304853.1325785218281.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <78DBB976238545479DD8CD472A149729@bboffice> Like you, I am always striving to be a little different in my neighborhood! I think I might be ready to become a two-car family. BTW, After not finding any LBC organizations in town and tired of entering shows in the Other/Orphan category I have begun to get a loose group of folks together. I guess they have been hiding as each time we meet there seems to be one more car. Here is the link to our exciting and comprehensive web site: www.bcbco.org I have taken to working their cars just to keep them on the road. Moving a 1953 MG-TD out of the barn tonight, then continuing on with the 1962 Morgan +4(TR3 Motor) after that. I am kind of thinking I would like to own a RHD Morgan, cool car but talk about primitive! Hope you all are doing well and the New Year brings much your way. Bill -----Original Message----- From: pethier at comcast.net [mailto:pethier at comcast.net] Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2012 11:40 AM To: bill beecher Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net; british-cars at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [British-cars] Looking for a RHD TR You taking a job with the post office? Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://www.mnautox.com ----- Original Message ----- > From: "bill beecher" I am starting to get the > 'project itch' again and have always wanted a RHD LBC. Does anyone > have or know of a good TR2-3A(I presume all 3Bs were > LHD?) > with RHD that would either be a very nice driver or good restoration > candidate? > > Happy New Year, > Bill From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Thu Jan 5 11:32:58 2012 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Thu, 5 Jan 2012 10:32:58 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] [British-cars] Looking for a RHD TR In-Reply-To: <78DBB976238545479DD8CD472A149729@bboffice> References: <336633020.304853.1325785218281.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <78DBB976238545479DD8CD472A149729@bboffice> Message-ID: <1325788378.16804.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> gota love the red wheels on that black TR3. Frank From: "bill_beecher at flash.net" To: pethier at comcast.net Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net; british-cars at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, January 5, 2012 9:56 AM Subject: Re: [TR] [British-cars] Looking for a RHD TR Like you, I am always striving to be a little different in my neighborhood! I think I might be ready to become a two-car family. BTW, After not finding any LBC organizations in town and tired of entering shows in the Other/Orphan category I have begun to get a loose group of folks together. I guess they have been hiding as each time we meet there seems to be one more car. Here is the link to our exciting and comprehensive web site: www.bcbco.org I have taken to working their cars just to keep them on the road. Moving a 1953 MG-TD out of the barn tonight, then continuing on with the 1962 Morgan +4(TR3 Motor) after that. I am kind of thinking I would like to own a RHD Morgan, cool car but talk about primitive! Hope you all are doing well and the New Year brings much your way. Bill -----Original Message----- From: pethier at comcast.net [mailto:pethier at comcast.net] Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2012 11:40 AM To: bill beecher Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net; british-cars at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [British-cars] Looking for a RHD TR You taking a job with the post office? Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://www.mnautox.com ----- Original Message ----- > From: "bill beecher" I am starting to get the > 'project itch' again and have always wanted a RHD LBC. Does anyone > have or know of a good TR2-3A(I presume all 3Bs were > LHD?) > with RHD that would either be a very nice driver or good restoration > candidate? > > Happy New Year, > Bill ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Thu Jan 5 13:02:33 2012 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Thu, 5 Jan 2012 13:02:33 -0700 Subject: [TR] [British-cars] Looking for a RHD TR In-Reply-To: <1325788378.16804.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <336633020.304853.1325785218281.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <78DBB976238545479DD8CD472A149729@bboffice> <1325788378.16804.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: On Thu, Jan 5, 2012 at 11:32 AM, Frank Fisher wrote: > gota love the red wheels on that black TR3. > Frank > That's Bill's, as I recall - aka 'Tarbaby'. I think it's great that, having moved to an area with no club or LBC organization Bill started something. Lists are great but no substitute for the local scene. Geo From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Thu Jan 5 13:58:54 2012 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Thu, 5 Jan 2012 12:58:54 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] [British-cars] Looking for a RHD TR In-Reply-To: References: <336633020.304853.1325785218281.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <78DBB976238545479DD8CD472A149729@bboffice> <1325788378.16804.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1325797134.50918.YahooMailNeo@web120205.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> that's admirable. we did a similar thing here in temecula. 1st Saturday the local sports car guys gather. from that group we have slowly put together a group of about 30 British car owners. we attend the 1st Saturday parking lot and then break out and go for a drive and pickanic Frank From: Geo Hahn To: Frank Fisher ; Triumphs Sent: Thursday, January 5, 2012 12:02 PM Subject: Re: [TR] [British-cars] Looking for a RHD TR On Thu, Jan 5, 2012 at 11:32 AM, Frank Fisher wrote: gota love the red wheels on that black TR3. >Frank That's Bill's, as I recall - aka 'Tarbaby'. I think it's great that, having moved to an area with no club or LBC organization Bill started something. Lists are great but no substitute for the local scene. Geo From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Thu Jan 5 14:56:27 2012 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Thu, 5 Jan 2012 16:56:27 -0500 Subject: [TR] [British-cars] Looking for a RHD TR In-Reply-To: <1325788378.16804.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <336633020.304853.1325785218281.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <78DBB976238545479DD8CD472A149729@bboffice> <1325788378.16804.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: On Thu, Jan 5, 2012 at 1:32 PM, Frank Fisher wrote: > gota love the red wheels on that black TR3. > Frank > > Wonder if he got those wide white walls the old fashioned way? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xkcm3rh60p0 I want to red powdercoat the rim and the center of my wires and install stainless steel spokes! But the same friends that won't let me paint my car neon yellow won't let me do that! Chris From yellowtr at adelphia.net Thu Jan 5 14:56:48 2012 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Thu, 05 Jan 2012 16:56:48 -0500 Subject: [TR] [British-cars] Looking for a RHD TR In-Reply-To: <1325797134.50918.YahooMailNeo@web120205.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <336633020.304853.1325785218281.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <78DBB976238545479DD8CD472A149729@bboffice> <1325788378.16804.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <1325797134.50918.YahooMailNeo@web120205.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4F061CA0.9070804@adelphia.net> There are not many Triumphs in my neck of the woods. I know of 2 other TR3s, 1 TR4, 2 late Spitfires, a GT6 , 2 TR6s and a real nice TR8. But if I see any of those cars it is one here and one there. In all my travels to car hops last summer, I only saw 1 Spitfire, 1 TR3, the TR8, 1 MGB, 1 MGA and 1 TR6. In a local car show 2 years ago, there was 1 TR4 (me), a 67 Beetle, and a 63 Porsche as the only European cars. I can usually count the Triumphs and MGs on 1 hand at any of the 4 car hops I attend weekly. I know there are more out there. The owners just are not driving them that much. No real chance for a group that could meet for coffee on Saturday like some of the groups you have mentioned. Maybe that is why there are 3 Triumphs in the garage. Only problems is I can only drive one at a time. Bob From pethier at comcast.net Thu Jan 5 14:59:54 2012 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 5 Jan 2012 21:59:54 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] [British-cars] Looking for a RHD TR In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1709580179.319640.1325800794284.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> I have "before" and "after" pics of Bill's TR3 http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/sets/72157600080589980 http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/sets/72157624306734163 Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://www.mnautox.com ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Geo Hahn" > To: "Frank Fisher" , "Triumphs" > Sent: Thursday, January 5, 2012 2:02:33 PM > Subject: Re: [TR] [British-cars] Looking for a RHD TR > On Thu, Jan 5, 2012 at 11:32 AM, Frank Fisher > wrote: > > > gota love the red wheels on that black TR3. > > Frank > > > > > That's Bill's, as I recall - aka 'Tarbaby'. > > I think it's great that, having moved to an area with no club or LBC > organization Bill started something. Lists are great but no substitute > for > the local scene. > > Geo > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Thu Jan 5 15:22:38 2012 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Thu, 5 Jan 2012 17:22:38 -0500 Subject: [TR] [British-cars] Looking for a RHD TR In-Reply-To: References: <336633020.304853.1325785218281.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <78DBB976238545479DD8CD472A149729@bboffice> <1325788378.16804.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Too Bad my style police weren't around when I painted my TR2 metallic orange. *http://tinyurl.com/6pec76z* I agree with the neon - but..... I after seeing the red wheels - and getting a powdercoat gun for christmas - all I need to do now is find stainless steel spokes!!! I have Roger Williams how to restore tr2, 3 and 3a book and it has a few pages dedicated to conversion to RHD http://books.google.com/books/about/How_to_Restore_Triumph_Tr2_Tr3_and_Tr3a.html?id=6gtE4XMPODgC Chris On Thu, Jan 5, 2012 at 4:56 PM, Chris Simo wrote: > > > On Thu, Jan 5, 2012 at 1:32 PM, Frank Fisher wrote: > >> gota love the red wheels on that black TR3. >> Frank >> >> > Wonder if he got those wide white walls the old fashioned way? > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xkcm3rh60p0 > > > I want to red powdercoat the rim and the center of my wires and install > stainless steel spokes! But the same friends that won't let me paint my > car neon yellow won't let me do that! > > Chris From trglory at verizon.net Thu Jan 5 15:49:30 2012 From: trglory at verizon.net (Joseph Laurito) Date: Thu, 05 Jan 2012 17:49:30 -0500 Subject: [TR] [British-cars] Looking for a RHD TR In-Reply-To: <4F061CA0.9070804@adelphia.net> References: <336633020.304853.1325785218281.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <78DBB976238545479DD8CD472A149729@bboffice> <1325788378.16804.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <1325797134.50918.YahooMailNeo@web120205.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <4F061CA0.9070804@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <006601cccbfc$4939bea0$dbad3be0$@net> I bet there is a lot more than you think. Contact Moss or TRF or VB and ask them how many people they sell to in your area. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Labuz Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2012 4:57 PM To: Triumphs List Subject: Re: [TR] [British-cars] Looking for a RHD TR There are not many Triumphs in my neck of the woods. I know of 2 other TR3s, 1 TR4, 2 late Spitfires, a GT6 , 2 TR6s and a real nice TR8. But if I see any of those cars it is one here and one there. In all my travels to car hops last summer, I only saw 1 Spitfire, 1 TR3, the TR8, 1 MGB, 1 MGA and 1 TR6. In a local car show 2 years ago, there was 1 TR4 (me), a 67 Beetle, and a 63 Porsche as the only European cars. I can usually count the Triumphs and MGs on 1 hand at any of the 4 car hops I attend weekly. I know there are more out there. The owners just are not driving them that much. No real chance for a group that could meet for coffee on Saturday like some of the groups you have mentioned. Maybe that is why there are 3 Triumphs in the garage. Only problems is I can only drive one at a time. Bob From wbeech at flash.net Thu Jan 5 16:51:21 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Thu, 5 Jan 2012 17:51:21 -0600 Subject: [TR] [British-cars] Looking for a RHD TR In-Reply-To: References: <336633020.304853.1325785218281.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net><78DBB976238545479DD8CD472A149729@bboffice><1325788378.16804.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <897BFF2279BA4BECA03F929D4B518FB3@bboffice> I think red rims and hubs would look great, a nice bright yellow like Frank Fisher's(not neon) and red interior. Send pictures when your done, it will be a show-stopper! Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Simo Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2012 3:56 PM To: Frank Fisher; list Triumph Subject: Re: [TR] [British-cars] Looking for a RHD TR On Thu, Jan 5, 2012 at 1:32 PM, Frank Fisher wrote: > gota love the red wheels on that black TR3. > Frank > > Wonder if he got those wide white walls the old fashioned way? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xkcm3rh60p0 I want to red powdercoat the rim and the center of my wires and install stainless steel spokes! But the same friends that won't let me paint my car neon yellow won't let me do that! Chris ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From wbeech at flash.net Thu Jan 5 17:00:38 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Thu, 5 Jan 2012 18:00:38 -0600 Subject: [TR] [British-cars] Looking for a RHD TR In-Reply-To: <006601cccbfc$4939bea0$dbad3be0$@net> References: <336633020.304853.1325785218281.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net><78DBB976238545479DD8CD472A149729@bboffice><1325788378.16804.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com><1325797134.50918.YahooMailNeo@web120205.mail.ne1.yahoo.com><4F061CA0.9070804@adelphia.net> <006601cccbfc$4939bea0$dbad3be0$@net> Message-ID: <8AFB6CC57C1241AA93A88863D45B02EB@bboffice> Actually, the 2nd car doesn't' HAVE to be a TR, a Morgan or something else nifty would be nice should you see a RHD around anywhere. I found this Riley RMC, but I am afraid it is too far gone to restore. Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joseph Laurito Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2012 4:50 PM To: 'Bob Labuz'; 'Triumphs List' Subject: Re: [TR] [British-cars] Looking for a RHD TR I bet there is a lot more than you think. Contact Moss or TRF or VB and ask them how many people they sell to in your area. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Labuz Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2012 4:57 PM To: Triumphs List Subject: Re: [TR] [British-cars] Looking for a RHD TR There are not many Triumphs in my neck of the woods. I know of 2 other TR3s, 1 TR4, 2 late Spitfires, a GT6 , 2 TR6s and a real nice TR8. But if I see any of those cars it is one here and one there. In all my travels to car hops last summer, I only saw 1 Spitfire, 1 TR3, the TR8, 1 MGB, 1 MGA and 1 TR6. In a local car show 2 years ago, there was 1 TR4 (me), a 67 Beetle, and a 63 Porsche as the only European cars. I can usually count the Triumphs and MGs on 1 hand at any of the 4 car hops I attend weekly. I know there are more out there. The owners just are not driving them that much. No real chance for a group that could meet for coffee on Saturday like some of the groups you have mentioned. Maybe that is why there are 3 Triumphs in the garage. Only problems is I can only drive one at a time. Bob ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Thu Jan 5 17:01:40 2012 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Thu, 5 Jan 2012 16:01:40 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] [British-cars] Looking for a RHD TR In-Reply-To: <897BFF2279BA4BECA03F929D4B518FB3@bboffice> References: <336633020.304853.1325785218281.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net><78DBB976238545479DD8CD472A149729@bboffice><1325788378.16804.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <897BFF2279BA4BECA03F929D4B518FB3@bboffice> Message-ID: <1325808100.3024.YahooMailNeo@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> for sure lets see pictures post em at the site mark set up for who's who. i don't have the site at hand right now sorry Frank From: "wbeech at flash.net" To: 'Chris Simo' ; 'Frank Fisher' ; 'list Triumph' Sent: Thursday, January 5, 2012 3:51 PM Subject: RE: [TR] [British-cars] Looking for a RHD TR I think red rims and hubs would look great, a nice bright yellow like Frank Fisher's(not neon) and red interior. Send pictures when your done, it will be a show-stopper! Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Simo Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2012 3:56 PM To: Frank Fisher; list Triumph Subject: Re: [TR] [British-cars] Looking for a RHD TR On Thu, Jan 5, 2012 at 1:32 PM, Frank Fisher wrote: > gota love the red wheels on that black TR3. > Frank > > Wonder if he got those wide white walls the old fashioned way? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xkcm3rh60p0 I want to red powdercoat the rim and the center of my wires and install stainless steel spokes! But the same friends that won't let me paint my car neon yellow won't let me do that! Chris ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From team.net at Daveola.com Thu Jan 5 18:01:33 2012 From: team.net at Daveola.com (David Ljung Madison) Date: Thu, 05 Jan 2012 17:01:33 -0800 Subject: [TR] My baby's coming home! Message-ID: After a few thousand years (or so it seems), my baby will be finally coming home from the body shop! It'll be back on the road in March. Hallelujah, it's been a long time. If anyone hits it again, there'll be hell to pay. Dave Madison http://triumph.Daveola.com/ From anncarletta at yahoo.com Thu Jan 5 18:05:03 2012 From: anncarletta at yahoo.com (Ann Carletta) Date: Thu, 5 Jan 2012 17:05:03 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 5, Issue 8 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1325811903.59192.YahooMailNeo@web113813.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Bill, I got a RHD '65 Daimler 2.5 V8 on e-bay. I know someone in NJ who had a '68 RHD Daimler for sale in NJ a few months ago. If you're interested, let me know and I'll get the # and you can see if it's still available. Ann Message: 9 Date: Thu, 5 Jan 2012 18:00:38 -0600 From: To: "'Joseph Laurito'" , "'Bob Labuz'" , "'Triumphs List'" Subject: Re: [TR] [British-cars] Looking for a RHD TR Message-ID: <8AFB6CC57C1241AA93A88863D45B02EB at bboffice> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Actually, the 2nd car doesn't' HAVE to be a TR, a Morgan or something else nifty would be nice should you see a RHD around anywhere. I found this Riley RMC, but I am afraid it is too far gone to restore. Bill From mark at bradakis.com Thu Jan 5 18:21:13 2012 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Thu, 05 Jan 2012 18:21:13 -0700 Subject: [TR] [British-cars] Looking for a RHD TR In-Reply-To: <1325808100.3024.YahooMailNeo@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <336633020.304853.1325785218281.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net><78DBB976238545479DD8CD472A149729@bboffice><1325788378.16804.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <897BFF2279BA4BECA03F929D4B518FB3@bboffice> <1325808100.3024.YahooMailNeo@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4F064C89.40903@bradakis.com> Frank Fisher wrote: > for sure lets see pictures > > post em at the site mark set up for who's who. i > don't have the site at hand right now sorry > The link to the Team.Net forums is down below with the other links, like the archives and donation page. The forums are not connected, software-wise to the mailing lists. You have to register separately with a different password. Well, it could be the same as your mail list password, that's up to you. Of course neither password should be one you also use for important stuff, like your bank accounts or whatever. mjb. From mathews at uga.edu Thu Jan 5 18:50:33 2012 From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews) Date: Thu, 5 Jan 2012 20:50:33 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A Oil pressure In-Reply-To: <1325766104.34371.YahooMailNeo@web29401.mail.ird.yahoo.com> References: <1325719228.52273.YahooMailNeo@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <00c701cccb4f$9e84cce0$db8e66a0$@rr.com> <1325766104.34371.YahooMailNeo@web29401.mail.ird Message-ID: <4F065369.2070405@uga.edu> I had an almost new 63 TR3B in 1964. It would start out at 70lbs on the road and as the engine got warm, drop to 50lb. After more miles on the highway, it would jump back to 70lbs. Had overdrive and on the interstates (yes we had some back in the 60's) at 70 mph average, I'd get 28mpg. I'd take that today. I also bought gas back then for 15 cent/gallon in price wars too. Ahh, the good "old" days. Doug On 1/5/2012 7:21 AM, John Macartney wrote: > ISTR that hot idle oil pressure of 20-30psi was normal on the four pot engine > when it was new and running on a 20W/50 mineral oil like Duckhams, Castrol and > Shell. > Only use synthetic in the family Kia and Hyundai through necessity. > Jonmac From jmitch at snet.net Thu Jan 5 19:28:54 2012 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Thu, 05 Jan 2012 21:28:54 -0500 Subject: [TR] Rebuilding car batteries Message-ID: <4F065C66.7040701@snet.net> Does anyone know of a service that will rebuild a car battery in it's original case? I've got a Lucas Pacesetter that holds a full charge but when I put a carbon pile load on it, drops very quickly. Thanks for any help. John Mitchell Shelton, CT From team.net at daveola.com Thu Jan 5 20:03:14 2012 From: team.net at daveola.com (David Ljung Madison) Date: Thu, 05 Jan 2012 19:03:14 -0800 Subject: [TR] My baby's coming home! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: > Great to hear!!! it's tough when you don't have something fun to drive! Well, I'm not completely without driving fun - I've been fixing up and driving my friend's Karmann Ghia, which is an amusing, though often befuddling car. I won't be too sad to get rid of it and get back into my TR3A, though. Dave Madison http://Triumph.Daveola.com/ From aljlthomson at charter.net Thu Jan 5 20:07:26 2012 From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson) Date: Thu, 5 Jan 2012 22:07:26 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Rebuilding car batteries In-Reply-To: <4F065C66.7040701@snet.net> References: <4F065C66.7040701@snet.net> Message-ID: <001b01cccc20$51c05240$f540f6c0$@charter.net> Give a call to East Coast Battery on Thomaston Avenue in Waterbury. They might know of a rebuilder. Alex Thomson -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Mitchell Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2012 9:29 PM To: 6-Pack; shop-talk; stag at digest.net; Triumph List Subject: [6pack] Rebuilding car batteries Does anyone know of a service that will rebuild a car battery in it's original case? I've got a Lucas Pacesetter that holds a full charge but when I put a carbon pile load on it, drops very quickly. Thanks for any help. John Mitchell Shelton, CT ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/aljlthomson at charter.net From triumphstag at gmail.com Fri Jan 6 13:25:11 2012 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy) Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2012 12:25:11 -0800 Subject: [TR] Recommendation for an impact wrench Message-ID: Can any one recommend one for the old job. Harbor Freight seems to carry inexpensive ones. What should I look for in one? Thanks, Sujit -- Sujit Roy, Realtor Keller Williams Realty, Cupertino, CA (408) 839-8359 roysrealty.com From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Fri Jan 6 14:05:32 2012 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2012 13:05:32 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Recommendation for an impact wrench In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1325883932.61512.YahooMailNeo@web120205.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> i would not use harbor freight for that item. my experience with HF air tools has not been good. go to Sear's while they are still open. they will last you long past there bankruptcy filing Frank From: Sujit Roy To: Triumphs Sent: Friday, January 6, 2012 12:25 PM Subject: [TR] Recommendation for an impact wrench Can any one recommend one for the old job. Harbor Freight seems to carry inexpensive ones. What should I look for in one? Thanks, Sujit -- Sujit Roy, Realtor Keller Williams Realty, Cupertino, CA (408) 839-8359 roysrealty.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From sumton at sbcglobal.net Fri Jan 6 14:30:25 2012 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2012 15:30:25 -0600 Subject: [TR] Recommendation for an impact wrench In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I wouldn't. had a cheap one, now I have a craftsman -------------------------------------------------- From: "Sujit Roy" Sent: Friday, January 06, 2012 2:25 PM To: "Triumphs" Subject: [TR] Recommendation for an impact wrench > Can any one recommend one for the old job. Harbor Freight seems to carry > inexpensive ones. What should I look for in one? > > Thanks, Sujit > > -- From wbeech at flash.net Fri Jan 6 14:41:38 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2012 15:41:38 -0600 Subject: [TR] Recommendation for an impact wrench References: Message-ID: -----Original Message----- From: wbeech at flash.net [mailto:wbeech at flash.net] Sent: Friday, January 06, 2012 3:39 PM To: 'Sujit Roy' Subject: RE: [TR] Recommendation for an impact wrench I have not tried the HF ones. I have an electric Black & Decker (30 years old and still strong) and a Craftsman air powered. Both have served me well for many, many years. Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Sujit Roy Sent: Friday, January 06, 2012 2:25 PM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] Recommendation for an impact wrench Can any one recommend one for the old job. Harbor Freight seems to carry inexpensive ones. What should I look for in one? Thanks, Sujit -- Sujit Roy, Realtor Keller Williams Realty, Cupertino, CA (408) 839-8359 roysrealty.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Fri Jan 6 15:24:58 2012 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2012 17:24:58 -0500 Subject: [TR] Recommendation for an impact wrench In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I'm on my second HF one. The first one was part of a kit and was not good. I was a bit more picky and paid more and found the highest torque I could get. The first impact I got from HF was a wimp - This last one is doing much better - knock wood. I oil my air tools before every use. Chris From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jan 6 15:45:11 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 6 Jan 2012 14:45:11 -0800 Subject: [TR] Recommendation for an impact wrench In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <002a01ccccc4$d9879720$8c96c560$@rr.com> > Can any one recommend one for the old job. Harbor Freight seems to > carry > inexpensive ones. What should I look for in one? Main thing IMO would be a torque rating about 3 times higher than what you actually need. A cheap "250 ft-lb" model is fine for lug nuts and such, but mine (from JC Whitney I think, many years ago) won't actually develop more than about 100 ft-lb on its rated 90 psi. The "450 ft-lb" model (same source IIRC) will actually remove a nut that has been torqued to 150 ft-lb. I haven't tried a regular impact wrench from HF, but I've been reasonably pleased with their other air tools (including a 3/8" "Butterfly" impact wrench). Not perfect by any means, nor as good as an IR or Chicago Pneumatic (as opposed to the "Central Pneumatic" with the same initials). But considering that the entire lot cost less than one good one, I feel they were reasonable value for the money. -- Randall From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Sat Jan 7 05:51:19 2012 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2012 07:51:19 -0500 Subject: [TR] Recommendation for an impact wrench In-Reply-To: <002a01ccccc4$d9879720$8c96c560$@rr.com> References: <002a01ccccc4$d9879720$8c96c560$@rr.com> Message-ID: <918CEE9E29564EFCB3956D98BAEB16F1@UserTHINK> What are the recommendations on the electric impact wrenches. Who has a good one for a reasonable price? JVV -----Original Message----- From: Randall Sent: Friday, January 06, 2012 5:45 PM To: 'Triumphs' Subject: Re: [TR] Recommendation for an impact wrench > Can any one recommend one for the old job. Harbor Freight seems to > carry > inexpensive ones. What should I look for in one? Main thing IMO would be a torque rating about 3 times higher than what you actually need. A cheap "250 ft-lb" model is fine for lug nuts and such, but mine (from JC Whitney I think, many years ago) won't actually develop more than about 100 ft-lb on its rated 90 psi. The "450 ft-lb" model (same source IIRC) will actually remove a nut that has been torqued to 150 ft-lb. I haven't tried a regular impact wrench from HF, but I've been reasonably pleased with their other air tools (including a 3/8" "Butterfly" impact wrench). Not perfect by any means, nor as good as an IR or Chicago Pneumatic (as opposed to the "Central Pneumatic" with the same initials). But considering that the entire lot cost less than one good one, I feel they were reasonable value for the money. -- Randall From aljlthomson at charter.net Sat Jan 7 06:50:58 2012 From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson) Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2012 08:50:58 -0500 Subject: [TR] Recommendation for an impact wrench In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000a01cccd43$62482560$26d87020$@charter.net> I bought an IR 223 (1/2") and a 251 (3/4") 25 years ago. Both made in Japan. The 223 still works okay but the 251 died two months ago with some parts no longer available. I did replace the 251 with a Harbor Freight unit but I know it won't last as long. I can see myself going back to a traditional name when the HF unit dies. All the maximum torque ratings you see are laughable - it's like seeing an ad for a 1 HP grinder that "develops" 2.5 HP yet only draws 5 amps. Check out your local NAPA or other similar type of store - they may have specials on trade grade air tools including brand names. Alex Thomson -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Sujit Roy Sent: Friday, January 06, 2012 3:25 PM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] Recommendation for an impact wrench Can any one recommend one for the old job. Harbor Freight seems to carry inexpensive ones. What should I look for in one? Thanks, Sujit -- Sujit Roy, Realtor Keller Williams Realty, Cupertino, CA (408) 839-8359 roysrealty.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net From jmitch at snet.net Sat Jan 7 07:53:12 2012 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Sat, 07 Jan 2012 09:53:12 -0500 Subject: [TR] Knock off torque Message-ID: <4F085C58.9070107@snet.net> I bought a tool that will allow me to use either a torque wrench or breaker bar for putting on and taking off my 2 eared knock offs. It's for my TR6 and Stag which I think uses 42mm knock offs. How can I find out a proper torque specification for putting on the nuts? Thanks for any help. John Mitchell From wbeech at flash.net Sat Jan 7 08:35:38 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2012 09:35:38 -0600 Subject: [TR] Recommendation for an impact wrench In-Reply-To: <918CEE9E29564EFCB3956D98BAEB16F1@UserTHINK> References: <002a01ccccc4$d9879720$8c96c560$@rr.com> <918CEE9E29564EFCB3956D98BAEB16F1@UserTHINK> Message-ID: <1296C0D3ACDA4B95AC90B9D88D4CA5A5@bboffice> My Black & Decker was about $100., good all around the shop impact. AND, don't forget if you are thinking of a super-handy light-to-medium duty 18v impact, the Makita, Milwaukee, DeWalt, etc. 1/4" drive impacts from Lowe's or Home Depot are super handy and you will use them 10 to 1 before you grab your air hose or power cord. I use mine for everything from pulling(only) spark plugs to installing door hinges around the house. A myriad of attachments are available, I keep the 3/8" square on most of the time for sockets. Probably the easiest expense to justify to the ever-sympathetic spouse who does not suffer from LBC Syndrome. BTW, I have a Makita and used a DeWalt for the past four years, both were great but I stuck with the Makita as the DeWalts were slow in coming out with the Li-On battery packs. You can usually pick these up in sets that include a VSR drill for $250-$300. Worth every penny. NFI, Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jerry Van Vlack Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2012 6:51 AM To: Randall; 'Triumphs' Subject: Re: [TR] Recommendation for an impact wrench What are the recommendations on the electric impact wrenches. Who has a good one for a reasonable price? JVV -----Original Message----- From: Randall Sent: Friday, January 06, 2012 5:45 PM To: 'Triumphs' Subject: Re: [TR] Recommendation for an impact wrench > Can any one recommend one for the old job. Harbor Freight seems to > carry inexpensive ones. What should I look for in one? Main thing IMO would be a torque rating about 3 times higher than what you actually need. A cheap "250 ft-lb" model is fine for lug nuts and such, but mine (from JC Whitney I think, many years ago) won't actually develop more than about 100 ft-lb on its rated 90 psi. The "450 ft-lb" model (same source IIRC) will actually remove a nut that has been torqued to 150 ft-lb. I haven't tried a regular impact wrench from HF, but I've been reasonably pleased with their other air tools (including a 3/8" "Butterfly" impact wrench). Not perfect by any means, nor as good as an IR or Chicago Pneumatic (as opposed to the "Central Pneumatic" with the same initials). But considering that the entire lot cost less than one good one, I feel they were reasonable value for the money. -- Randall ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From spook01 at comcast.net Sat Jan 7 09:45:57 2012 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Sat, 07 Jan 2012 10:45:57 -0600 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Knock_off_torque?= Message-ID: <20120107164546.115BF187648@autox.team.net> Use a hammer. You are measuring with a micrometer, cutting with an axe. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "John Mitchell" To: "6-Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>, , "Triumph" , <>> Subject: [TR] Knock off torque Date: Sat, Jan 7, 2012 08:53 I bought a tool that will allow me to use either a torque wrench or breaker bar for putting on and taking off my 2 eared knock offs. It's for my TR6 and Stag which I think uses 42mm knock offs. How can I find out a proper torque specification for putting on the nuts? Thanks for any help. John Mitchell ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Sat Jan 7 10:37:42 2012 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2012 09:37:42 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Recommendation for an impact wrench Message-ID: <1325957862.32053.YahooMailNeo@web39404.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Happy New Year List! I know that this is a stupid question to many people, but I shall ask it anyways. What nuts would a person use an Impact Wrench on? How often does one use this tool when doing any or each time of repair work? -Cosmo Kramer From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Jan 7 11:56:43 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2012 10:56:43 -0800 Subject: [TR] Recommendation for an impact wrench In-Reply-To: <1325957862.32053.YahooMailNeo@web39404.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <1325957862.32053.YahooMailNeo@web39404.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <0a7701cccd6e$19792c50$0201a8c0@randall> > What nuts would a person use an Impact Wrench > on? > How often does one use this tool when doing any or each time of repair > work? Almost always, it's a convenience rather than a necessity. I use mine mostly for removing (not installing) lug nuts; and on suspension work (eg the 8 Nyloc nuts that hold the rear axle to the springs on a solid-axle TR). I originally bought it when I owned a car (not a TR) where the front sway bar was held to the subframe by 8 long bolts with interference threads (so it took roughly 40 ftlb to turn the bolts their entire length). It's also handy in situations where it's hard to hold the other side, like tapered tie rod end joints and the big bolt that holds the front hub on the engine. -- Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Jan 7 12:03:40 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2012 11:03:40 -0800 Subject: [TR] Knock off torque In-Reply-To: <4F085C58.9070107@snet.net> References: <4F085C58.9070107@snet.net> Message-ID: <0a7801cccd6f$12254c80$0201a8c0@randall> > I bought a tool that will allow me to use either a torque wrench or > breaker bar for putting on and taking off my 2 eared knock > offs. It's > for my TR6 and Stag How did your Stag wind up with 2-eared knock offs? They had "safety" knockoffs originally (but otherwise the same size & thread as TR6). > How can I find > out a proper torque specification for putting on the nuts? I doubt the factory ever published a spec, as they specifically said to use a hammer. But one approach would be to install them with a hammer and then measure how much torque it takes to remove them. -- Randall From levilevi at comcast.net Sat Jan 7 12:22:59 2012 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2012 12:22:59 -0700 Subject: [TR] Recommendation for an impact wrench In-Reply-To: <1325957862.32053.YahooMailNeo@web39404.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <1325957862.32053.YahooMailNeo@web39404.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <613788B4-1357-4D98-BA91-58237055103D@comcast.net> I just love the sound of the whirling of the impact wrench. It makes me feel like a real mechanic in a real shop and gives me that NASCAR fantasy moment. Plus there's no better way to round off a nut to the point of uselessness. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Jan 7, 2012, at 10:37 AM, Cosmo Kramer wrote: > Happy New Year List! > > I know that this is a stupid question to many people, > but I shall ask it anyways. > > What nuts would a person use an Impact Wrench > on? > How often does one use this tool when doing any or each time of repair > work? > -Cosmo Kramer > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Sat Jan 7 12:23:31 2012 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2012 14:23:31 -0500 Subject: [TR] Recommendation for an impact wrench In-Reply-To: <1325957862.32053.YahooMailNeo@web39404.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <1325957862.32053.YahooMailNeo@web39404.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I'd use it for disassembly for the most part, especially those nuts which are stubborn to get started or completely off. I do use an air wrench (not impact) for assembly of non critical items, like seat tracks or the tunnel cover where the bolts are all fine thread and twice as long as they need to be. -----Original Message----- From: Cosmo Kramer Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2012 12:37 PM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Recommendation for an impact wrench Happy New Year List! I know that this is a stupid question to many people, but I shall ask it anyways. What nuts would a person use an Impact Wrench on? How often does one use this tool when doing any or each time of repair work? -Cosmo Kramer From spook01 at comcast.net Sat Jan 7 13:22:53 2012 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Sat, 07 Jan 2012 14:22:53 -0600 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Knock_off_torque?= Message-ID: <20120107202242.8FFCE187899@autox.team.net> It occurs to me that the nuts are designed to be self tightening..that's why you don't hammer the c**p out of them. Over tightening actually damages the cone in the wheel and on the hub, and can induce wobble. Just a thought. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Randall" To: , "'Triumph List'" Subject: [TR] Knock off torque Date: Sat, Jan 7, 2012 13:03 > I bought a tool that will allow me to use either a torque wrench or > breaker bar for putting on and taking off my 2 eared knock > offs. It's > for my TR6 and Stag How did your Stag wind up with 2-eared knock offs? They had "safety" knockoffs originally (but otherwise the same size & thread as TR6). > How can I find > out a proper torque specification for putting on the nuts? I doubt the factory ever published a spec, as they specifically said to use a hammer. But one approach would be to install them with a hammer and then measure how much torque it takes to remove them. -- Randall ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From fishplate at charter.net Sat Jan 7 13:26:46 2012 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff) Date: Sat, 07 Jan 2012 15:26:46 -0500 Subject: [TR] Recommendation for an impact wrench In-Reply-To: <1296C0D3ACDA4B95AC90B9D88D4CA5A5@bboffice> References: <002a01ccccc4$d9879720$8c96c560$@rr.com> <918CEE9E29564EFCB3956D98BAEB16F1@UserTHINK> <1296C0D3ACDA4B95AC90B9D88D4CA5A5@bboffice> Message-ID: <4F08AA86.7010502@charter.net> On 1/7/2012 10:35 AM, wbeech at flash.net wrote: > I use mine for everything from > pulling(only) spark plugs A word of warning: I used to work with a fellow back in the day, who used a 3/8" impact to remove spark plugs (from aluminum heads). In almost every case, the plug would come out of the hole spinning and wobbling to the point that he would screw up the last couple of threads in the hole. Do that enough times, and you've made a problem for yourself. If you must use a power tool, invest in a 3/8" air ratchet. It doesn't develop the thread-killing rotational speed of an impact wrench, but saves your wrists from working. Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. From mmarr at notwires.com Sat Jan 7 13:54:15 2012 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2012 14:54:15 -0600 Subject: [TR] Recommendation for an impact wrench References: <1325957862.32053.YahooMailNeo@web39404.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I have often thought that some of the nuts behind the wheel could use a good clout around the ears with something of the same heft as an impact wrench. However, I use mine exclusively for disassembly. A little PB Blaster and the impact will usually get the most obstinate bolt started. I generally don't use it on small diameter bolts, however, unless I have a great need to shear off a head or two! I have an air ratchet that I soimetimes use for assembly, but I always do the final torquing with a wrench or a torque wrench if torque is critical. Of course, if I wanted critical TALK, I could always call my ex-wife... Over to you, Jim Muller. Mike > > What nuts would a person use an Impact Wrench > on? > How often does one use this tool when doing any or each time of repair > work? > -Cosmo Kramer From mmarr at notwires.com Sat Jan 7 13:56:46 2012 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2012 14:56:46 -0600 Subject: [TR] Knock off torque References: <20120107202242.8FFCE187899@autox.team.net> Message-ID: That's my understanding too. I think there was a long discussion of this topic here several years ago. There were a lot of opinions. Mike > It occurs to me that the nuts are designed to be self tightening..that's > why you don't hammer the c**p out of them. Over tightening actually > damages the cone in the wheel and on the hub, and can induce wobble. > Just a thought. From hdrider570 at att.net Sat Jan 7 14:06:29 2012 From: hdrider570 at att.net (hdrider570 at att.net) Date: Sat, 07 Jan 2012 13:06:29 -0800 Subject: [TR] Recommendation for an impact wrench Message-ID: <4F08B3D5.7060403@att.net> I agree with Randal but I also use impact guns to remove pulleys from generators and water pumps. I have an impact ratchet handle which is great for long threads and very handy when performing tasks such engine removal/disassemble such as when you are undoing lots of fasteners such as oil pans and timing covers. I am not so fond of them for assembly as it is far to easy to over torque things. If I do use it it usually is to just run the nuts down and then torque by hand. I recently purchased one of the higher torque Harbor Freight 1/2" "earthquake" guns and am very happy with it. I had been using an IR one for about 35 years but it is very down on power now as it is so worn. Edward Hamer Petaluma CA From jmitch at snet.net Sat Jan 7 14:09:30 2012 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Sat, 07 Jan 2012 16:09:30 -0500 Subject: [TR] [stag] RE: Knock off torque In-Reply-To: <0a7801cccd6f$12254c80$0201a8c0@randall> References: <4F085C58.9070107@snet.net> <0a7801cccd6f$12254c80$0201a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <4F08B48A.9020304@snet.net> Thanks Randall, I guess the PO likes how they looked. This tool will do the octagon nuts also. Good idea on measuring the torque as I remove a nut. I assume that won't damage a torque wrench. Thanks again, John On 1/7/2012 2:03 PM, Randall wrote: >> I bought a tool that will allow me to use either a torque wrench or >> breaker bar for putting on and taking off my 2 eared knock >> offs. It's >> for my TR6 and Stag > How did your Stag wind up with 2-eared knock offs? They had "safety" > knockoffs originally (but otherwise the same size& thread as TR6). > >> How can I find >> out a proper torque specification for putting on the nuts? > I doubt the factory ever published a spec, as they specifically said to use > a hammer. But one approach would be to install them with a hammer and then > measure how much torque it takes to remove them. > > -- Randall From jmitch at snet.net Sat Jan 7 14:15:13 2012 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Sat, 07 Jan 2012 16:15:13 -0500 Subject: [TR] Knock off torque In-Reply-To: <20120107202242.8FFCE187899@autox.team.net> References: <20120107202242.8FFCE187899@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <4F08B5E1.70909@snet.net> On Lay Leno's garage, there's a video segment with a similar tool. The makers argument is that it's safer with a wrench and with a known torque, you won't be over tightening. Take a look. http://www.jaylenosgarage.com/extras/tools/knockoff-spinner-tools/ On 1/7/2012 3:22 PM, spook01 at comcast.net wrote: > It occurs to me that the nuts are designed to be self tightening..that's why you don't hammer the c**p out of them. Over tightening actually damages the cone in the wheel and on the hub, and can induce wobble. > Just a thought. > > Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone > > ----- Reply message ----- > From: "Randall" > To:, "'Triumph List'" > Subject: [TR] Knock off torque > Date: Sat, Jan 7, 2012 13:03 > > >> I bought a tool that will allow me to use either a torque wrench or >> breaker bar for putting on and taking off my 2 eared knock >> offs. It's >> for my TR6 and Stag > How did your Stag wind up with 2-eared knock offs? They had "safety" > knockoffs originally (but otherwise the same size& thread as TR6). > >> How can I find >> out a proper torque specification for putting on the nuts? > I doubt the factory ever published a spec, as they specifically said to use > a hammer. But one approach would be to install them with a hammer and then > measure how much torque it takes to remove them. > > -- Randall > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jmitch at snet.net From aljlthomson at charter.net Sat Jan 7 14:46:31 2012 From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson) Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2012 16:46:31 -0500 Subject: [TR] Recommendation for an impact wrench In-Reply-To: <1325957862.32053.YahooMailNeo@web39404.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <1325957862.32053.YahooMailNeo@web39404.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <001101cccd85$d1cf7400$756e5c00$@charter.net> On our Triumphs (TR6 and GT6) - probably nowhere except when I was disassembling a parts car. On my farm equipment - lots of places. Wheel clamp bolts (3/4" bolt size) that haven't been removed for years are always an excellent candidate. Also, impacts are especially handy when there just isn't the room to get a good grip with a breaker bar. Many fasteners can be buried deep in a tunnel like area with no arm room for leverage. With some experience, one can get a pretty good idea of what a particular impact wrench will do for final tightening torque. Tightening wheel bolts on a hay wagon can be a good application after some experimenting. Tightening wheel bolts (or nuts) on fancy (expensive) aluminum rims that can deform easily is a different issue. Your question is not a stupid one! Alex Thomson -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Cosmo Kramer Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2012 12:38 PM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Recommendation for an impact wrench Happy New Year List! I know that this is a stupid question to many people, but I shall ask it anyways. What nuts would a person use an Impact Wrench on? How often does one use this tool when doing any or each time of repair work? -Cosmo Kramer ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Sat Jan 7 15:37:59 2012 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2012 17:37:59 -0500 Subject: [TR] Knock off torque In-Reply-To: <4F085C58.9070107@snet.net> References: <4F085C58.9070107@snet.net> Message-ID: OK. I've heard to use the hammer only when the wheel is off the ground as you can damage the spokes. Fact or Fiction? On Jan 7, 2012 10:28 AM, "John Mitchell" wrote: > I bought a tool that will allow me to use either a torque wrench or > breaker bar for putting on and taking off my 2 eared knock offs. It's for > my TR6 and Stag which I think uses 42mm knock offs. How can I find out a > proper torque specification for putting on the nuts? Thanks for any help. > John Mitchell > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > options/triumphs/ccsimonsen@**gmail.com From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Sat Jan 7 15:40:29 2012 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2012 17:40:29 -0500 Subject: [TR] Recommendation for an impact wrench In-Reply-To: <1325957862.32053.YahooMailNeo@web39404.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <1325957862.32053.YahooMailNeo@web39404.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I love it for disassembly. Of just about anything. Beats the heck out of busting a knuckle. Assembly...almost never. On Jan 7, 2012 12:58 PM, "Cosmo Kramer" wrote: > Happy New Year List! > > I know that this is a stupid question to many people, > but I shall ask it anyways. > > What nuts would a person use an Impact Wrench > on? > How often does one use this tool when doing any or each time of repair > work? > -Cosmo Kramer > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ccsimonsen at gmail.com From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Jan 7 15:45:37 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2012 14:45:37 -0800 Subject: [TR] [6pack] [stag] RE: Knock off torque In-Reply-To: References: <4F085C58.9070107@snet.net><0a7801cccd6f$12254c80$0201a8c0@randall> <4F08B48A.9020304@snet.net> Message-ID: <0af901cccd8e$1352def0$0201a8c0@randall> > Did you ever read the VTR discussion on wire wheel tightening? Try this link instead: http://www.vtr.org/maintain/wire-wheels-tightening.shtml Yes, I've read it. It's interesting and informative; and yet still only opinions. Since Standard-Triumph (later BL etc) were legally liable for giving bad advice, I tend to give their instructions more weight. I'll also mention that, in general, I am more interested in the latest instructions rather than the earliest. Experience gained over the years frequently leads to better ways of doing things; and conditions in 1970 were a lot closer to those today than the conditions in 1918. As long as we are on the topic, I'll also emphasize the importance of ensuring that the nuts that hold the splined adapter to the hub are tightened to 65 ftlb. As the VTR article notes, flexing on the LH side tends to tighten LH thread nuts, but the adapter nuts are RH thread and so tend to loosen. Which is a rather unpleasant experience, to be avoided if at all possible IMO. -- Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Jan 7 15:54:13 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2012 14:54:13 -0800 Subject: [TR] Knock off torque In-Reply-To: <20120107202242.8FFCE187899@autox.team.net> References: <20120107202242.8FFCE187899@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <0afd01cccd8f$46e238f0$0201a8c0@randall> > It occurs to me that the nuts are designed to be self > tightening..that's why you don't hammer the c**p out of them. > Over tightening actually damages the cone in the wheel and > on the hub, and can induce wobble. I agree that over-tightening is bad; but personally I don't rely on the "self tightening" effect. Although it is real, it doesn't always work. And too loose is worse than too tight. -- Randall From keithstewart at execulink.com Sat Jan 7 16:08:23 2012 From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart) Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2012 18:08:23 -0500 Subject: [TR] Recommendation for an impact wrench In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <050F2180-5F21-4490-A170-5295CA6288CC@execulink.com> On 2012-01-07, at 2:00 PM, Cosmo Kramer wrote: > > Happy New Year List! > > I know that this is a stupid question to many people, > but I shall ask it anyways. > > What nuts would a person use an Impact Wrench > on? > How often does one use this tool when doing any or each time of repair > work? > -Cosmo Kramer In my case, never for installation, only for removal. Especially lug nuts, but also for rusted on components (with copious quantities of PBlaster etc.) I often wonder why they even have a clockwise setting - except it is handy to get something started since it is already at hand, but I always finish by hand or with a torque wrenh. Keith R. Stewart 75 Camden Road London, Ontario N5X 2K2 Home: (519) 660-1916 E-Mail: keithstewart at execulink.com From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Jan 7 16:36:26 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2012 15:36:26 -0800 Subject: [TR] Knock off torque In-Reply-To: References: <4F085C58.9070107@snet.net> Message-ID: <0b2301cccd95$2cd3f010$0201a8c0@randall> > OK. I've heard to use the hammer only when the wheel is off > the ground as > you can damage the spokes. Fact or Fiction? Factory instructions for both TR6 & Stag specifically say to do final tightening with the wheel on the ground. Here's a TSB saying the same thing for earlier cars: http://www.triumphsonly.com/pages/technical/1-f-1.htm Considering what happens to the spokes when you drop the clutch in 1st, I think the major chance of damage is missing with the hammer and hitting the spokes instead of the knockoff. -- Randall From elliottr at rmi.net Sat Jan 7 16:56:00 2012 From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott) Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2012 17:56:00 -0600 (GMT-06:00) Subject: [TR] Recommendation for an impact wrench Message-ID: <10591722.1325980560467.JavaMail.root@elwamui-polski.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Impact wrenches also come in very handy for removing alternator pulleys. Roger -----Original Message----- >From: Cosmo Kramer >Sent: Jan 7, 2012 11:37 AM >To: "Triumphs at autox.team.net" >Subject: [TR] Recommendation for an impact wrench > >Happy New Year List! > >I know that this is a stupid question to many people, >but I shall ask it anyways. > >What nuts would a person use an Impact Wrench >on? >How often does one use this tool when doing any or each time of repair >work? From aljlthomson at charter.net Sat Jan 7 17:06:19 2012 From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson) Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2012 19:06:19 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] [stag] RE: Knock off torque In-Reply-To: <0af901cccd8e$1352def0$0201a8c0@randall> References: <4F085C58.9070107@snet.net><0a7801cccd6f$12254c80$0201a8c0@randall> <4F08B48A.9020304@snet.net> <0af901cccd8e$1352def0$0201a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <001a01cccd99$59625a50$0c270ef0$@charter.net> Good Point on the adapters. A friend walked up to our house one day as he had just lost a wheel on his A-H 3000 nearby down the road due to the adapter coming off. The sudden force of the car hitting the pavement even dislodged the fuel tank cap. He left with a green cap from one of the tractors. Years ago, Chrysler vehicles had left hand threads on the left side of their cars and trucks, denoted by an "L" on the end of each stud, with the idea that rotation would loosen the lugs. But finally, they realized that even though that may be true with center-lock rims, there is little problem with conventional wheel/stud set-ups which the rest of the world uses. I wonder how many owners of Chrysler vehicles had to have studs replaced when impact-wrench jockeys at the tire shop didn't think as to why the left side studs wouldn't come loose. Alex Thomson -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2012 5:46 PM To: stag at digest.net; Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] [stag] RE: Knock off torque As long as we are on the topic, I'll also emphasize the importance of ensuring that the nuts that hold the splined adapter to the hub are tightened to 65 ftlb. As the VTR article notes, flexing on the LH side tends to tighten LH thread nuts, but the adapter nuts are RH thread and so tend to loosen. Which is a rather unpleasant experience, to be avoided if at all possible IMO. -- Randall ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Jan 7 18:27:00 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2012 17:27:00 -0800 Subject: [TR] [6pack] [stag] RE: Knock off torque In-Reply-To: <001a01cccd99$59625a50$0c270ef0$@charter.net> References: <4F085C58.9070107@snet.net><0a7801cccd6f$12254c80$0201a8c0@randall><4F08B48A.9020304@snet.net> <0af901cccd8e$1352def0$0201a8c0@randall> <001a01cccd99$59625a50$0c270ef0$@charter.net> Message-ID: <0b5401cccda4$9eea7d40$0201a8c0@randall> > there is > little problem with conventional wheel/stud set-ups which the > rest of the > world uses. OTOH, every single time that I've ever had trouble with lug nuts coming loose, it's been on the LH side with RH threads. And that includes both a Stag and several TR3s. -- Randall From spook01 at comcast.net Sat Jan 7 18:47:46 2012 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Sat, 07 Jan 2012 19:47:46 -0600 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?=5B6pack=5D_=5Bstag=5D_RE=3A__Knock_off_torque?= Message-ID: <20120108014737.4F26B18787A@autox.team.net> Absolutely! No bashing! Funny story....a few years ago, I had a 246 Dino with knock ons (mag wheels with chrome steel centers!). Unbeknownst to me, a hub had been damaged and replaced.....with one from the opposite side! Imagine my surprise to find myself driving a three wheeler at 70 on the Houston freeway! Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Randall" To: , Subject: [TR] [6pack] [stag] RE: Knock off torque Date: Sat, Jan 7, 2012 16:45 > Did you ever read the VTR discussion on wire wheel tightening? Try this link instead: http://www.vtr.org/maintain/wire-wheels-tightening.shtml Yes, I've read it. It's interesting and informative; and yet still only opinions. Since Standard-Triumph (later BL etc) were legally liable for giving bad advice, I tend to give their instructions more weight. I'll also mention that, in general, I am more interested in the latest instructions rather than the earliest. Experience gained over the years frequently leads to better ways of doing things; and conditions in 1970 were a lot closer to those today than the conditions in 1918. As long as we are on the topic, I'll also emphasize the importance of ensuring that the nuts that hold the splined adapter to the hub are tightened to 65 ftlb. As the VTR article notes, flexing on the LH side tends to tighten LH thread nuts, but the adapter nuts are RH thread and so tend to loosen. Which is a rather unpleasant experience, to be avoided if at all possible IMO. -- Randall ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From spook01 at comcast.net Sat Jan 7 18:50:57 2012 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Sat, 07 Jan 2012 19:50:57 -0600 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Knock_off_torque?= Message-ID: <20120108015047.A363618787A@autox.team.net> A couple of good raps after screwing it down tight by chasing it around with taps to cause it to bottom is the way. Too many don't trust it and continue to support the wire wheel business. Do not leave it loose, hoping it will tighten itself up. Just follow the instructions on the previous link sent from vin TR. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Randall" To: , "'Triumph List'" Subject: [TR] Knock off torque Date: Sat, Jan 7, 2012 16:54 > It occurs to me that the nuts are designed to be self > tightening..that's why you don't hammer the c**p out of them. > Over tightening actually damages the cone in the wheel and > on the hub, and can induce wobble. I agree that over-tightening is bad; but personally I don't rely on the "self tightening" effect. Although it is real, it doesn't always work. And too loose is worse than too tight. -- Randall ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From rpeglow at optonline.net Sat Jan 7 18:52:42 2012 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Sat, 07 Jan 2012 20:52:42 -0500 Subject: [TR] Recommendation for an impact wrench In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: After inspection or tire shop visit on my everyday driver I need an impact wrench if I need to remove a wheel. They all use impact wrenches to put the wheels on. I have the DW290 DeWalt, works just fine every time. Regards, Bob Happy New Year List! I know that this is a stupid question to many people, but I shall ask it anyways. What nuts would a person use an Impact Wrench on? How often does one use this tool when doing any or each time of repair work? -Cosmo Kramer From spook01 at comcast.net Sat Jan 7 18:54:31 2012 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Sat, 07 Jan 2012 19:54:31 -0600 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?=5B6pack=5D_=5Bstag=5D_RE=3A__Knock_off_torque?= Message-ID: <20120108015422.A98EE18787A@autox.team.net> My Lanchester uses that idea, though the letter is in the top of the nut. Pretty good idea. Wonder why no one uses it anymore..... Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Alex & Janet Thomson" To: "'Randall'" , , Subject: [TR] [6pack] [stag] RE: Knock off torque Date: Sat, Jan 7, 2012 18:06 Good Point on the adapters. A friend walked up to our house one day as he had just lost a wheel on his A-H 3000 nearby down the road due to the adapter coming off. The sudden force of the car hitting the pavement even dislodged the fuel tank cap. He left with a green cap from one of the tractors. Years ago, Chrysler vehicles had left hand threads on the left side of their cars and trucks, denoted by an "L" on the end of each stud, with the idea that rotation would loosen the lugs. But finally, they realized that even though that may be true with center-lock rims, there is little problem with conventional wheel/stud set-ups which the rest of the world uses. I wonder how many owners of Chrysler vehicles had to have studs replaced when impact-wrench jockeys at the tire shop didn't think as to why the left side studs wouldn't come loose. Alex Thomson -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2012 5:46 PM To: stag at digest.net; Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] [stag] RE: Knock off torque As long as we are on the topic, I'll also emphasize the importance of ensuring that the nuts that hold the splined adapter to the hub are tightened to 65 ftlb. As the VTR article notes, flexing on the LH side tends to tighten LH thread nuts, but the adapter nuts are RH thread and so tend to loosen. Which is a rather unpleasant experience, to be avoided if at all possible IMO. -- Randall ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Jan 7 19:38:49 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2012 18:38:49 -0800 Subject: [TR] Recommendation for an impact wrench In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0b8601cccdae$a77c3340$0201a8c0@randall> > After inspection or tire shop visit on my everyday driver I > need an impact > wrench if I need to remove a wheel. > They all use impact wrenches to put the wheels on. If they are not using a torque limiter to limit torque to manufacturer specs, then you need to either find another shop, or sue them. Overtorquing the lug nuts on a modern car is a serious problem, possibly leading to broken studs, warped rotors, and cracked wheels. OTOH, the specified torque is usually higher than it used to be. My Buick wagon takes 100 ftlb, which is tough (tho not impossible) to remove with the jack handle. -- Randall From thenicholls at verizon.net Sat Jan 7 21:30:37 2012 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Sat, 07 Jan 2012 22:30:37 -0600 (CST) Subject: [TR] Recommendation for an impact wrench Message-ID: <2638875.121853.1325997037759.JavaMail.root@vms170033> The shop I go to for my 72 TR6 is very nice in that they hand torque the lug nuts to specifications. All I did was ask and they said no problem. Craig Vienna, VA On 01/07/12, Randall wrote: > After inspection or tire shop visit on my everyday driver I > need an impact > wrench if I need to remove a wheel. > They all use impact wrenches to put the wheels on. If they are not using a torque limiter to limit torque to manufacturer specs, then you need to either find another shop, or sue them. Overtorquing the lug nuts on a modern car is a serious problem, possibly leading to broken studs, warped rotors, and cracked wheels. OTOH, the specified torque is usually higher than it used to be. My Buick wagon takes 100 ftlb, which is tough (tho not impossible) to remove with the jack handle. -- Randall ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Sat Jan 7 21:56:28 2012 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2012 20:56:28 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Recommendation for an impact wrench Message-ID: <1325998588.7904.YahooMailNeo@web39404.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hi List! I want to hank all of you who replied I shall try something new for me & respond to your replies on the list & all @ once. 90+% of the replies stated that they only (or mostly) use this tool for disassembling things. Which I can understand. But, so far I've gotten by in NEVER having to use one. May be it's because my car came from S. Calif., & I've never stored it in a place that rust might easily grow on it. A good portion of you mentioned that the most use it gets is when removing lug nuts, & one person stated that "AT TIMES" he feels that they need "could use a good clout around the ears". Again I can understand, but I still feel that using an extension on a wrench or ratchet has meet my requirements very nicely. Also, I prefer this than a impact wrench, because I personally feel that I would have less chance of 'Rounding off my nuts'. The main reason I prefer the extension over the impact is because I can 'Feel my nuts' loosen. Therefore I feel like i have more control over the situation. One person stated that he likes the sound & he has a tendency to feel more like on a 'crew team' of mechanics, as that in racing. YES! I can FULLY understand that & it does have a pleasant flavor that I would like to taste. Let's face it, MOST of us are NOT professional mechanics. This is a 'Hobby', & one nice thing is you make it what you want it to be. Just like you can do anything to YOUR car (paint it neon paisley, with neon flashing lights, IF you want). Another person uses it for assembling , but will follow up with a torque wrench. I personally would rather use a ratchet followed up with a torque wrench. Also, I'm use to working slow, so the use of an impact or air wrench would be of little use to me ( it only will give me more time to relax with a 'cup of coffee'). One person stated that his use is ONLY to remove Lug Nuts off of a TRIUMPH, but on farm equipment he'll use it MUCH more. Yes, I feel that the use of an impact on industrial or OLD farm equipment is a MUST & this is where the best use of the tool is needed, that's why I think they made it for. Some use electric & others use air. So I gather that there is a way to set the torque on them if needed. I personally feel that I will say to the 'old ways' of using manual labor over the use of power, because it's less maintenance, cleaning, oiling, & maintaining air compressor (which mine is not in use now). So all my air tools aren't being used until I can get around to fixing it. Thanks again for your input, because inquiring mines (at least this one does) want to know. -Cosmo Kramer From JGILLIS at tcd.ie Sun Jan 8 05:52:52 2012 From: JGILLIS at tcd.ie (John Gillis) Date: Sun, 8 Jan 2012 12:52:52 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR2 Mirror Message-ID: Fuse issue sorted, many thanks, next what are the screws that fit the mirror to the dash? the Moss catalogue and my S.T Parts manual both indicate spire screws (chromed) I am fairly sure I can see threads in the holes on the dash for mine, was there a change to screws at some stage? I imagine I will also have to remove the windscreen to fit the mirror regardless of the type of fixing? Regards John 1954 TR2 Long Door From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jan 8 07:09:33 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 8 Jan 2012 06:09:33 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR2 Mirror In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <003c01ccce0f$25f33970$0201a8c0@randall> > next what are the screws that > fit the mirror > to the dash? the Moss catalogue and my S.T Parts manual both > indicate spire > screws (chromed) Seems to be a mistake, although I'm not sure where. Anyway, the later bodies definitely have 10-32 machine threads in those holes. I see that TRF has SP87/K5 cross-referenced to SLP251, which near as I can tell is a 10-32 screw (it's also listed for the TR3A locking trunk handle, which take 10-32). Don't forget, there is a small bracket and rubber buffer that go underneath the mirror, to steady the windscreen. I found out the hard way that it's important. -- Randall From keithstewart at execulink.com Sun Jan 8 07:11:19 2012 From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart) Date: Sun, 8 Jan 2012 09:11:19 -0500 Subject: [TR] Recommendation for an impact wrench In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <76190C64-BFB6-49B9-8083-C444F8359D1A@execulink.com> On Sat, 07 Jan 2012, at 8:52:42 PM, peglow at optonline.net wrote: > After inspection or tire shop visit on my everyday driver I need an impact > wrench if I need to remove a wheel. > They all use impact wrenches to put the wheels on. > I have the DW290 DeWalt, works just fine every time. > Regards, > Bob Interestingly enough, the Costco guys that do the tire changes and oil/lube on our everyday vehicles use a torque wrench when re-installing the wheels. Once upon a time, as soon as I got home after a tire rotation or repair, the first thing I did was to get our the torque wrench and re-do the lug nuts. In one of my parts bins I still have a lug nut wrench from one of the TRs that is all bent out of shape from having to change a wheel on the side of the road after one of those impact-happy tire jockeys had worked his magic. Keith R. Stewart 75 Camden Road London, Ontario N5X 2K2 Home: (519) 660-1916 E-Mail: keithstewart at execulink.com From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Sun Jan 8 07:49:32 2012 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Sun, 8 Jan 2012 09:49:32 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR2 Mirror In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi John - Just took one out of my TR2 - it's a pointed chromed oval head 10/32 - though I could not get my rusty screw to go easily through my 10/32 tap - I measured to be sure - .183 on the major thread diameter and 32 pitch threads from the thread guage. Thread length approx .41 inches Chris On Sun, Jan 8, 2012 at 7:52 AM, John Gillis wrote: > Fuse issue sorted, many thanks, next what are the screws that fit the > mirror > to the dash? the Moss catalogue and my S.T Parts manual both indicate spire > screws (chromed) I am fairly sure I can see threads in the holes on the > dash > for mine, was there a change to screws at some stage? I imagine I will also > have to remove the windscreen to fit the mirror regardless of the type of > fixing? > Regards > John > 1954 TR2 Long Door > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ccsimonsen at gmail.com From fishplate at charter.net Sun Jan 8 08:23:27 2012 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff) Date: Sun, 08 Jan 2012 10:23:27 -0500 Subject: [TR] Recommendation for an impact wrench In-Reply-To: <050F2180-5F21-4490-A170-5295CA6288CC@execulink.com> References: <050F2180-5F21-4490-A170-5295CA6288CC@execulink.com> Message-ID: <4F09B4EF.9000601@charter.net> On 1/7/2012 6:08 PM, Keith Stewart wrote: > I > often wonder why they even have a clockwise setting - except it is handy to > get something started since it is already at hand, but I always finish by hand > or with a torque wrenh. I know that there are extensions that claim to be torque-limiting...saving lots of time, especially in a production environment. How well they work, I don't know. Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. - soon to be Volkswagen-free! From wbeech at flash.net Sun Jan 8 08:37:36 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Sun, 8 Jan 2012 09:37:36 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR2 Mirror In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: John, If you don't have it yet, do not forget the bumper that fits between the mirror and windscreen. Sent from mobile Bill On Jan 8, 2012, at 8:49 AM, Chris Simo wrote: > Hi John - Just took one out of my TR2 - it's a pointed chromed oval head > 10/32 - though I could not get my rusty screw to go easily through my 10/32 > tap - I measured to be sure - .183 on the major thread diameter and 32 > pitch threads from the thread guage. Thread length approx .41 inches > > Chris > > On Sun, Jan 8, 2012 at 7:52 AM, John Gillis wrote: > >> Fuse issue sorted, many thanks, next what are the screws that fit the >> mirror >> to the dash? the Moss catalogue and my S.T Parts manual both indicate spire >> screws (chromed) I am fairly sure I can see threads in the holes on the >> dash >> for mine, was there a change to screws at some stage? I imagine I will also >> have to remove the windscreen to fit the mirror regardless of the type of >> fixing? >> Regards >> John >> 1954 TR2 Long Door >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ccsimonsen at gmail.com > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sun Jan 8 10:45:45 2012 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sun, 08 Jan 2012 12:45:45 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR2 Mirror In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000901ccce2d$5b4ee8d0$11ecba70$@net> John - you should not have to remove the w/s. In one of my tool kit purchases (who knows where) I have a 90d angle Phillips and Flat screw driver. I remember having to change the mirror and it worked great. Mine are about 1" x 2 1/2" with the longer end fitting a 1/4 hex-head driver. Just take it slow. The screw isn't that long but you can only do about 1/4 turn at a time. Carl 1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ getting closer. 2012 is the year! -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Gillis Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2012 7:53 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR2 Mirror Fuse issue sorted, many thanks, next what are the screws that fit the mirror to the dash? the Moss catalogue and my S.T Parts manual both indicate spire screws (chromed) I am fairly sure I can see threads in the holes on the dash for mine, was there a change to screws at some stage? I imagine I will also have to remove the windscreen to fit the mirror regardless of the type of fixing? Regards John 1954 TR2 Long Door ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net From terryrs at comcast.net Sun Jan 8 12:13:59 2012 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 8 Jan 2012 19:13:59 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Recommendation for an impact wrench In-Reply-To: <76190C64-BFB6-49B9-8083-C444F8359D1A@execulink.com> Message-ID: <1480645234.502881.1326050039212.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> >In one of my parts bins I still have a lug nut wrench from one of the TRs that is all >bent out of shape from having to change a wheel on the side of the road after >one of those impact-happy tire jockeys had worked his magic. Yeah. Second that one. Once back in the late 70's I had to sleep on the ground just off the road under Mount Ranier because I had a flat I couldn't get off the '68 MGB I drove back then. Drove the rest of the way to the East Coast without a spare. Man is a toolmaker, ever measured by the size of his tools. Separates us from the beasts....or does it make us one???? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A TS 58667 New Hampshire From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sun Jan 8 14:10:46 2012 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sun, 08 Jan 2012 16:10:46 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Oil Pressure Gauge Line Path Message-ID: <001801ccce49$fe000390$fa000ab0$@net> With a heater installed - what is the path of the Oil Pressure Line from the firewall to the gauge. Seems to me that the heater bracket is right in line with its path. Should it go above it (which would require a slight bend up and back down to line up with the gauge); around to the driver's side (with the bend out and back - perhaps not possible - too long); or between the bracket and the top plate of the heater (which would align ok but would create a nightmare for r/r of the heater. Thanks Carl 1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ getting closer. 2012 is the year! From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sun Jan 8 20:07:42 2012 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Sun, 8 Jan 2012 21:07:42 -0600 Subject: [TR] treatise on starting maladies Message-ID: this was in our newsletter; I thought it was pretty good and posted it so that others can benefit. any comments/additions/criticisms are welcome http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/starting/ From thenicholls at verizon.net Mon Jan 9 06:20:50 2012 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Mon, 09 Jan 2012 07:20:50 -0600 (CST) Subject: [TR] Fwd: 1972 Triumph TR6 Temp - RESOLVED Message-ID: <9168661.28817.1326115250164.JavaMail.root@vznit170126> Just to update the list and close this item, over the weekend I installed a new temperature sensor I got from TRF. I really did not believe that this could be the issue, I mean the thing is just a hunk of metal, right? Well, installed and took a test drive, and the temp is now reading correctly. Live and learn, thanks to everyone for their input. Craig H. Nicholls 1972 Triumph TR6 Vienna, VA On 11/16/11, William Pugh wrote: Begin forwarded message: > From: William Pugh > Subject: Re: [TR] 1972 Triumph TR6 Temp - UPDATE > Date: November 16, 2011 9:03:41 AM PST > To: thenicholls at verizon.net > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net > > I have had very good luck with NOS type instruments from these guys" > > > http://www.gaugeguys.com/Smiths/classic.htm > > I got an Oil Pressure / Temperature combination for my TR3 ... the quality was outstanding. I would think the same might work for you. > I also invested $40.00 for a laser temperature reader (you just point a pull the trigger and it tells you the temperature at any given point) > Also kind of neat for measuring temps on lots of stuff, including my Cat ... > > > On Nov 16, 2011, at 7:08 AM, thenicholls at verizon.net wrote: > >> List, >> >> Just an update, I got a temp gauge from a friend of mine. Went out and ran 72 TR6 until temp moved and oil pressure came down. >> >> Tested temp with the gauge along the engine on the side where the exhaust is. I got readings of 187-192 degrees which seems right to me. >> >> So, now I am down to either the sending unit is bad, or just the gauge is reading low. I heard from a lister who lives near me that he has the same situation and is just not worrying about it. >> >> My issue is that I ordered a new sending unit from TRF GTR110 4/2009 and attempted to install it, it did not fit. Since it is the only one listed by the big three, I could not figure out why it would be wrong, so I pulled the existing one, cleaned it up, and put it back in. >> >> I know it is not the voltage stabilizer because I put gas in it over the weekend and it is reading correctly. >> >> At this point, I am going to get the TRF sending unit and stop by a local British car shop for some free advice. >> >> Will let you know what happens. >> >> Craig >> 1972 TR6 > > > "Life is too short to drive Boring Cars" > > Bill Pugh > Wallace, CA > Casper > 1957 TR3 > TS16665L > anabil007 at comcast.net triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net From triosan at gmail.com Mon Jan 9 09:34:10 2012 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley) Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2012 08:34:10 -0800 Subject: [TR] [Fot] Undetuning and restoration of a TR250 In-Reply-To: <4F09DF4E.5000708@pobox.com> References: <4F09DF4E.5000708@pobox.com> Message-ID: Do not know how many other answers you got. To get that HP at the wheels I figure you: 1. Port the head for good flow 2. Get a three angle or radiused valve grind 3, Shave the head to about 3.3 inches thich 4. Get an S2 grind cam [or a Kent D9] [Goodparts or TSI or Integral Cams] 5. Get a good quality header [see the comparison of two that I had/have at: https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos?tab=wq#photos/103241823961257430252/albums/5036637093474271777/5036638034072109730 I liked the Racestorations one better, but it is more expensive and takes longer to get. Current car has a Pacesetter and it works fine. 6. Not sure what carbs you have, but I know yoy can get 3/4" Strombergs that flwo jsut fine and are adjustable. 7. Get an electric fuel pump and a good pressure gauge -- at sustained WOT [race track] I could not get enough fuel with the stock setup once I had the ported head and free flow exhaust. 8. Get as free flowing a muffler as you can within the limits of the sound you can endure. 9. Roller rockers do not help performance, but do add some measure of "uptime". Hope that helps -- I have several "Albums" at that Picasa web site regarding the three hot TR6's I have owned. Sold the white, had the green [TR250 turned into TR5] stolen from my race trailer; current race the blue and white one. Chuck On Sun, Jan 8, 2012 at 10:24 AM, Larry Young wrote: > Over the past couple of months, I have finally gotten started on the > restoration of my TR250. I have had this car since it was new. It is very > nearly in original condition, because I never had the money to modify it > back when I wanted to. Since I plan to keep it fairly original, the FoT is > probably the wrong group to be talking to. So, where do the 6 cylinder > guys hang out? > > '68 was the first year the emission laws started to take their toll on > performance, as evidenced by the TR5 vs TR250. I would like to make it > perform better, while keeping a stock looking engine appearance. I'm > thinking along the lines of the 125 mph car that Kas did for publicity back > in the day. My thoughts at this point are to increase the compression to > the limits imposed by pump gas. Change to a longer duration cam, i.e. more > like the early PI cam. I'm not sure how to tune the nonadjustable carbs > when the engine is modified. I was also thinking about getting rid of the > wacky ignition retard, but continuing to use the vacuum advance. Does > anyone have any suggestions on how I can accomplish my goal within the > limits I've imposed? > > I have an old Cam Doctor that I have used to look at several TR3/4 cams. > I have a fairly popular webpage on those cams at > www.TildenTechnologies.com. .As part of this effort, I'd like to do some > research and a similar page for 6 cylinder cams. Does anyone have an early > PI cam that I could borrow to analyze for this effort? Or, perhaps other > street performance cams? > Thanks, > Larry Young > ______________________________**_________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/**options/fot/triosan at gmail.com > > > -- Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk Mon Jan 9 15:51:34 2012 From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2012 22:51:34 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] In case anyone is interested...? Message-ID: <1326149494.3559.YahooMailNeo@web29405.mail.ird.yahoo.com> ... two Amphicars are listed for sale at www.classiccarsforsale.co.uk One is coming up for auction at Brooklands near London in Feb, the other is in Italy. NFI Jonmac http://standard-triumph-books.co.uk/ From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jan 9 15:58:58 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2012 14:58:58 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR2 Mirror In-Reply-To: <000901ccce2d$5b4ee8d0$11ecba70$@net> References: <000901ccce2d$5b4ee8d0$11ecba70$@net> Message-ID: <042601cccf22$45e2c930$d1a85b90$@rr.com> > John - you should not have to remove the w/s. In one of my tool kit > purchases (who knows where) I have a 90d angle Phillips and Flat screw > driver. OTOH, remove the windscreen may be the easier approach, especially on an earlier car where it is only held by 4 Dzus buttons. There are also ratcheting versions of the right angle screwdrivers (I have one in my PC service tool box), but IMO it's still easier to remove the windscreen and less likely to mar the mirror base when the screwdriver slips. -- Randall From triumphstag at gmail.com Mon Jan 9 15:59:06 2012 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy) Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2012 14:59:06 -0800 Subject: [TR] Is there a problem with my battery? Message-ID: I'm using a standard battery charger to charge my battery. It's been on for about 12 hours and the meter needle is sitting between 1/2 Full and Full. It doesn't read FULL. When charged with the battery charger in the past, the charger would read full. The Stag don't get used much at all. The battery does start the car. Is the battery faulty? I have been stranded once. Sujit -- Sujit Roy, Realtor Keller Williams Realty, Cupertino, CA (408) 839-8359 roysrealty.com From levilevi at comcast.net Mon Jan 9 16:16:24 2012 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2012 16:16:24 -0700 Subject: [TR] In case anyone is interested...? In-Reply-To: <1326149494.3559.YahooMailNeo@web29405.mail.ird.yahoo.com> References: <1326149494.3559.YahooMailNeo@web29405.mail.ird.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Cool. An import that you could drive back to the States if you didn't want to pay shipping. And forget about all those fees and documents just drive it onto Cocoa Beach. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Jan 9, 2012, at 3:51 PM, John Macartney wrote: > ... two Amphicars are listed for sale at > www.classiccarsforsale.co.uk One is > coming up for auction at Brooklands near London in Feb, the other is > in Italy. > NFI > > Jonmac > > http://standard-triumph-books.co.uk/ > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Mon Jan 9 16:37:48 2012 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2012 18:37:48 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR2 Mirror In-Reply-To: <042601cccf22$45e2c930$d1a85b90$@rr.com> References: <000901ccce2d$5b4ee8d0$11ecba70$@net> <042601cccf22$45e2c930$d1a85b90$@rr.com> Message-ID: That's too funny - I used a ratchet type screwdriver to remove the one to check the thread size for john - and tried to put it back. The rubber buffer was a bit tough to push against - so I just popped the four Dzus buttons - I also loosened the station screws in the side of the windscreen - that makes it a bit easier for the stantions to swiing away from the body to prevent scratching. Get a little help to hold the windshield - As nice as the paint is on Johns car - I wouldn't do it alone. My car - well that's no problem :). Offhand, Does any one know what color the center metal brace should be and the mirror stalk on a TR2 - I'm presuming some kind of matte black or crinkle black on the stalk. 30 years ago the DPO (me) was very handy with brown rattle can spray paint..... Thanks From wbeech at flash.net Mon Jan 9 17:16:25 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2012 18:16:25 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR2 Mirror In-Reply-To: References: <000901ccce2d$5b4ee8d0$11ecba70$@net><042601cccf22$45e2c930$d1a85b90$@rr.com> Message-ID: <93236AEE852B4692BE925A8D37892078@bboffice> Black crinkle finish, like the instrument cluster panel, would be correct for the mirror and stalk, black matte for the bumper holder. You should have the mirror with just raw glass edges, no rubber trim around the outside(that came after TS60000). Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Simo Sent: Monday, January 09, 2012 5:38 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR2 Mirror That's too funny - I used a ratchet type screwdriver to remove the one to check the thread size for john - and tried to put it back. The rubber buffer was a bit tough to push against - so I just popped the four Dzus buttons - I also loosened the station screws in the side of the windscreen - that makes it a bit easier for the stantions to swiing away from the body to prevent scratching. Get a little help to hold the windshield - As nice as the paint is on Johns car - I wouldn't do it alone. My car - well that's no problem :). Offhand, Does any one know what color the center metal brace should be and the mirror stalk on a TR2 - I'm presuming some kind of matte black or crinkle black on the stalk. 30 years ago the DPO (me) was very handy with brown rattle can spray paint..... Thanks ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Mon Jan 9 17:28:25 2012 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2012 16:28:25 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] brookland aeroscreen mounts Message-ID: <1326155305.93176.YahooMailNeo@web65308.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Those of you with the brookland screens. Is it possible to let the brookland mounts on the car with the regular windshield attached? I'm planning on mounting them as far back as possible on the dash and hope I can let them there rather than mounting/dismounting each time they are used. thanks gary n. From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Mon Jan 9 17:38:04 2012 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2012 19:38:04 -0500 Subject: [TR] Is there a problem with my battery? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I think it depends on the charger - I have 2 settings on my cheapo - 6A and 2A - on 6A it always seems like its setting above 2A even after an over night charge. on the 2A setting it's always over an Amp. I don't leave it on overnight unless it's on the lower setting and never leave it on longer than overnight. I need to buy a good one! I'd just drive it by Autozone or local FLAPS and ask them check your battery with their battery load tester - basically a big bank of resistors and an amp meter that can more or less measure the cold cranking amps your battery can provide. Chris From JGILLIS at tcd.ie Tue Jan 10 02:28:25 2012 From: JGILLIS at tcd.ie (John Gillis) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2012 09:28:25 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR2 mirror Message-ID: I will attempt the fit this weekend, I had some joy screwing in a spare No10 screw and both holes loosened up a little, I would like to get my tap in to clear threads properly. Carl's idea of sliding the screen forward rather than removing appeals, thinking about it, if removed you would have the wiper spindles on one side and the mirror on the other, it may become quite tricky to manipulate the screen back into position between them, even just sliding the screen forward, as an extra precaution I will tape the paintwork around the bottom of the screen arms. Anybody know the thread size of the chrome screws that blank off the racing screen mounts?? Regards John From aljlthomson at charter.net Tue Jan 10 03:52:18 2012 From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2012 05:52:18 -0500 Subject: [TR] Is there a problem with my battery? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000001cccf85$ec1f0e40$c45d2ac0$@charter.net> I think I have seen a charger that has a percent-full type of meter such as yours. My guess is that is an expanded scale voltmeter where 0% might be 10V, 50% might be 11.5V and 100% is 14V. If that's the case, my experience is that a battery that never gets above 10 or 11 volts probably has a shorted cell and will need to be replaced. I agree that your best bet is to have the battery load tested - that's the best way to determine its condition. Perhaps the meter on the charger is incorrect. You could also check the charging voltage with a regular voltmeter. Alex Thomson -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Sujit Roy Sent: Monday, January 09, 2012 5:59 PM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] Is there a problem with my battery? I'm using a standard battery charger to charge my battery. It's been on for about 12 hours and the meter needle is sitting between 1/2 Full and Full. It doesn't read FULL. When charged with the battery charger in the past, the charger would read full. The Stag don't get used much at all. The battery does start the car. Is the battery faulty? I have been stranded once. Sujit -- Sujit Roy, Realtor Keller Williams Realty, Cupertino, CA (408) 839-8359 roysrealty.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Tue Jan 10 05:03:12 2012 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2012 07:03:12 -0500 Subject: [TR] VIN vs Commission number vs Engine number Message-ID: I have good news I think. I finally got the TR2 to the point where I felt I could drive it by DMV for it's inspection that NC requires for older cars prior to giving you the title. Thought this was just a no-brainer. So in final preparation, I decided to make an attempt to clean the 5 or 6 layers of paint and gunk and grime from the Commision number plate that was totally not legible - and it did not match the registration and expected Title number. I had a suggestion to simply make a new commission plate with the number I had - but others said absolutely not - NC is not sympathetic at all to tampering with a Commission plate - big trouble like 20 years trouble according to one inspector. So - I was going to have to go down the lost title route - until another friend said - just try to find the number anywhere on the car - inside or out it may lead to a simpler updating of the VIN number - I scraped off some of the gunk from the engine block and found my number on the engine. After some googling it seems that it was common practice in some states in the 50's and earlier to use the engine number vs body number for title assignment purposes. I think I'm going to be ok. It would be difficult to prove without a bunch of title searches but the car has been in the family since it was purchased - so that helps my blood pressure as well. Anyone have any additional advice here in terms of preparation for my trip to DMV for inspection? Thanks Chris From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk Tue Jan 10 06:10:13 2012 From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2012 13:10:13 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] VIN vs Commission number vs Engine number In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1326201013.71154.YahooMailNeo@web29404.mail.ird.yahoo.com> Hi, Chris I am in no way promoting the services of BMIHT at Gaydon, UK - but your dilemma is one where I think BMIHT can help you. When I worked there some 10 or so years back, I saw many examples of enthusiasts faced with your problem and there are probably ways that BMIHT can provide useful input. Over the years, the build records of The Standard Motor Company varied in terms of information appearing on 'production tallies' and later versions were often less informative than earlier ones, though the reverse applied as well. My recommendation is you ask BMIHT to provide you with either a Heritage Certificate (or an alternative document as a statement) which gives commission number, engine number, body number, gearbox and axle numbers and anything else that can be found relating to your car. As it's been in the same family since new - and you could probably attest to this with a notarised statement for NC DMV, BMIHT can 'sort' a car's details on an engine number to validate an commission number - though this does take longer to do. There is plenty of evidence down the last 60 odd years (from info coming from enthusiasts) that one or more numbers could well have been misread or badly handwritten when the car was first titled. Be aware too, that Standard Motor Co rarely (if ever) had an engine number matching a commission number and also be aware that cars were not necessarily built in sequential commission number sequence as so many falsely believe to be the case. Good luck Jonmac http://standard-triumph-books.co.uk/ >________________________________ > From: Chris Simo >To: list Triumph >Sent: Tuesday, 10 January 2012, 12:03 >Subject: [TR] VIN vs Commission number vs Engine number > >I have good news I think. > >I finally got the TR2 to the point where I felt I could drive it by DMV for >it's inspection that NC requires for older cars prior to giving you the >title. Thought this was just a no-brainer. > >So in final preparation, I decided to make an attempt to clean the 5 or 6 >layers of paint and gunk and grime from the Commision number plate that was >totally not legible - and it did not match the registration and expected >Title number. > >I had a suggestion to simply make a new commission plate with the number I >had - but others said absolutely not - NC is not sympathetic at all to >tampering with a Commission plate - big trouble like 20 years trouble >according to one inspector. > >So - I was going to have to go down the lost title route - until another >friend said - just try to find the number anywhere on the car - inside or >out it may lead to a simpler updating of the VIN number - I scraped off >some of the gunk from the engine block and found my number on the engine. > >After some googling it seems that it was common practice in some states in >the 50's and earlier to use the engine number vs body number for title >assignment purposes. I think I'm going to be ok. It would be difficult to >prove without a bunch of title searches but the car has been in the family >since it was purchased - so that helps my blood pressure as well. > >Anyone have any additional advice here in terms of preparation for my trip >to DMV for inspection? > >Thanks Chris > >** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk From lee.k.janssen at gmail.com Tue Jan 10 09:44:39 2012 From: lee.k.janssen at gmail.com (Lee Janssen) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2012 09:44:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] non-LBC: snowblower PA -> CO Message-ID: I've got a snowblower in Danville PA that needs to get to Denver CO. If anyone happens to be going down that path let me know and I'll pay for the time and trouble. I'll also take recommendations on how to move this puppy ;-) Thanks in advance Lee Janssen Denver CO From don.hiscock at gmail.com Tue Jan 10 09:52:39 2012 From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2012 10:52:39 -0600 Subject: [TR] VIN vs Commission number vs Engine number In-Reply-To: <1326201013.71154.YahooMailNeo@web29404.mail.ird.yahoo.com> References: <1326201013.71154.YahooMailNeo@web29404.mail.ird.yahoo.com> Message-ID: My TR3B has commission number TSF/202-L and engine number TSF/52-E. As found in the vehicle and on its BMIHT record. Not at all unusual to be way off. Triumph were more interested in making cars than matching numbers. Even with only a few TR3B's made, commission and engine differed by a significant amount. I'm not sure there was EVER a TR2-3B with matching numbers. A BMIHT factory record is the way to go it seems. A DMV oughta take that. Don From mhooper at indiefilmnet.com Tue Jan 10 10:30:00 2012 From: mhooper at indiefilmnet.com (Mark Hooper) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2012 12:30:00 -0500 Subject: [TR] non-LBC: snowblower PA -> CO In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <82a9e966.1cccfbd.2881fb16.29@indiefilmnet.com> Hi Lee: You could always decide to make a sequel to the film The Straight Story and drive it to Colorado. Of course you would have to fly to PA first... :^) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Straight_Story I can guarantee you an opening in cinemas if you go for it! Mark 1972 TR6 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Lee Janssen Sent: January 10, 2012 11:45 AM To: triumphs Subject: [TR] non-LBC: snowblower PA -> CO I've got a snowblower in Danville PA that needs to get to Denver CO. If anyone happens to be going down that path let me know and I'll pay for the time and trouble. I'll also take recommendations on how to move this puppy ;-) Thanks in advance Lee Janssen Denver CO From pethier at comcast.net Tue Jan 10 11:03:17 2012 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2012 18:03:17 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] non-LBC: snowblower PA -> CO In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1941383036.517446.1326218597801.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> > I've got a snowblower in Danville PA that needs to get to Denver CO. > If > anyone happens to be going down that path let me know and I'll pay for > the > time and trouble. This is exactly the sort of thing that works on autotransport at yahoogroups.com Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://www.mnautox.com From wbeech at flash.net Tue Jan 10 11:19:38 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2012 12:19:38 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR2 mirror In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <654B13C4623D49F89E4B40983157FEC2@bboffice> John, Thread size for the Brooklands Aero screen mounts is 5/16-24. This was a special bolt in that the head was taller and it was chrome plated, p/n:602078, with a chrome washer as well p/n:602077. For a while, when I had mis-placed these four bolts for my car, I ground off the markings from a standard bolt and polished it up to a nice shine and it looked acceptable. According to the parts catalog, these were discontinued after TS-32833. Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Gillis Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2012 3:28 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR2 mirror I will attempt the fit this weekend, I had some joy screwing in a spare No10 screw and both holes loosened up a little, I would like to get my tap in to clear threads properly. Carl's idea of sliding the screen forward rather than removing appeals, thinking about it, if removed you would have the wiper spindles on one side and the mirror on the other, it may become quite tricky to manipulate the screen back into position between them, even just sliding the screen forward, as an extra precaution I will tape the paintwork around the bottom of the screen arms. Anybody know the thread size of the chrome screws that blank off the racing screen mounts?? Regards John ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Tue Jan 10 14:05:10 2012 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2012 14:05:10 -0700 Subject: [TR] brookland aeroscreen mounts In-Reply-To: <1326155305.93176.YahooMailNeo@web65308.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> References: <1326155305.93176.YahooMailNeo@web65308.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: On Mon, Jan 9, 2012 at 5:28 PM, Gary Nafziger wrote: > Is it possible to let the brookland mounts on the car with the regular > windshield attached? > I do: http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/brooklands2.JPG Results is what I think is a pretty good position for the aeroscreen: http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/Aero%20Screen.JPG I made a sort of 'shoe' for the outboard bracket so the aeroscreen would sit close to level: http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/brooklands1.JPG Geo From jmerone at rocketmail.com Tue Jan 10 14:47:33 2012 From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2012 13:47:33 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Amphicars at auction Message-ID: <1326232053.84652.YahooMailNeo@web160306.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Second prize is TWO Amphicars. Sorry, I couldn't help myself. Joe Merone CF18928 5-speed >... two Amphicars are listed for sale at www.classiccarsforsale.co.uk One is >coming up for auction at Brooklands near London in Feb, the other is in Italy. >NFI >Jonmac http://standard-triumph-books.co.uk/ From coefront at shaw.ca Tue Jan 10 15:54:11 2012 From: coefront at shaw.ca (Mike Coe) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2012 15:54:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 Transmission with overdrive Message-ID: Hi: A TR6 overdrive. Please could Chuck & Kathleen Kelly-Arnold contact me regarding the TR6 transmission with overdrive. Ibve unfortunately lost your e-mail etc, through a change of computers. Cheers Mike b Calgary From Loumetelko at aol.com Tue Jan 10 18:15:47 2012 From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2012 20:15:47 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] tire codes Message-ID: <62674.6a572b06.3c3e3cc3@aol.com> I am about to order new tires for the TR2 and I need help understanding year of manufacture date codes. I really hate to replace the current set since there is at least 75% thread remaining but they are about 12 years old so best bite the proverbial bullet. The size that will be ordered is 155R15 - not a fast seller so I don't want someone's 5 or more year old stock hence the need to know the codes before they are shipped. Lou Metelko Auburn, Indiana From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jan 10 19:02:58 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2012 18:02:58 -0800 Subject: [TR] tire codes In-Reply-To: <62674.6a572b06.3c3e3cc3@aol.com> References: <62674.6a572b06.3c3e3cc3@aol.com> Message-ID: <053901ccd005$24773db0$6d65b910$@rr.com> > I really hate to replace the current set > since there is at least 75% thread remaining but they are about 12 > years old so > best bite the proverbial bullet. Good idea, Lou. You don't want this http://tinyurl.com/7upymlq happening to your beautiful TR2. Tire Rack has a good write-up at http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=11 -- Randall From mark at bradakis.com Tue Jan 10 19:17:31 2012 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2012 19:17:31 -0700 Subject: [TR] Amphicars at auction In-Reply-To: <1326232053.84652.YahooMailNeo@web160306.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> References: <1326232053.84652.YahooMailNeo@web160306.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4F0CF13B.2040402@bradakis.com> >> ... two Amphicars are listed for sale at > www.classiccarsforsale.co.uk One is >> coming up for auction at Brooklands near > London in Feb, the other is in Italy. > There is an amphicar at autox.team.net list. It has less than 10 members and is a fair bit quieter than this Triumph list. mjb. From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Tue Jan 10 19:18:03 2012 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2012 18:18:03 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] sighting In-Reply-To: <62674.6a572b06.3c3e3cc3@aol.com> References: <62674.6a572b06.3c3e3cc3@aol.com> Message-ID: <1326248283.98100.YahooMailNeo@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> pale blue TR3 spotted southbound on the I-15 in Lake Elsinore CA, this evening. any one of you guys? you where looking good Frank From mathews at uga.edu Tue Jan 10 19:29:11 2012 From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2012 21:29:11 -0500 Subject: [TR] tire codes In-Reply-To: <62674.6a572b06.3c3e3cc3@aol.com> References: <62674.6a572b06.3c3e3cc3@aol.com> Message-ID: <4F0CF3F7.7050702@uga.edu> Try this url: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=11 Doug On 1/10/2012 8:15 PM, Loumetelko at aol.com wrote: > I am about to order new tires for the TR2 and I need help understanding > year of manufacture date codes. I really hate to replace the current set > since there is at least 75% thread remaining but they are about 12 years old so > best bite the proverbial bullet. The size that will be ordered is 155R15 > - not a fast seller so I don't want someone's 5 or more year old stock > hence the need to know the codes before they are shipped. > > Lou Metelko > Auburn, Indiana > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mathews at uga.edu From mathews at uga.edu Tue Jan 10 19:30:01 2012 From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews) Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2012 21:30:01 -0500 Subject: [TR] tire codes In-Reply-To: <62674.6a572b06.3c3e3cc3@aol.com> References: <62674.6a572b06.3c3e3cc3@aol.com> Message-ID: <4F0CF429.90001@uga.edu> Try this (if you get duplicates, I forgot to strip the trailer on the first message). Doug On 1/10/2012 8:15 PM, Loumetelko at aol.com wrote: > I am about to order new tires for the TR2 and I need help understanding > year of manufacture date codes. I really hate to replace the current set > since there is at least 75% thread remaining but they are about 12 years old so > best bite the proverbial bullet. The size that will be ordered is 155R15 > - not a fast seller so I don't want someone's 5 or more year old stock > hence the need to know the codes before they are shipped. > > Lou Metelko > Auburn, Indiana From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Wed Jan 11 06:39:34 2012 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2012 08:39:34 -0500 Subject: [TR] Amphicars at auction References: <1326232053.84652.YahooMailNeo@web160306.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: How cool! Is their a video somewhere of an Amphicar swimming? Paul ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Merone" To: "Triumph List" Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2012 4:47 PM Subject: [TR] Amphicars at auction > Second prize is TWO Amphicars. Sorry, I couldn't help myself. > > Joe Merone > CF18928 5-speed > >>... two Amphicars are listed for sale at > www.classiccarsforsale.co.uk One is >>coming up for auction at Brooklands near > London in Feb, the other is in Italy. >>NFI > >>Jonmac > http://standard-triumph-books.co.uk/ > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dorpaul at bellsouth.net From bill_beecher at flash.net Wed Jan 11 09:13:46 2012 From: bill_beecher at flash.net (bill_beecher at flash.net) Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2012 10:13:46 -0600 Subject: [TR] BCF Calendar: How many on the list? Message-ID: <61B17A1F42494F1EB35E0A0B8A6434A2@bboffice> Just curious as to how many members of the List have had their cars on the BCF calendar. I suppose under the heading of full disclosure and shameless self-promotion I should direct you to the month of June. http://www.lulu.com/product/calendar/bcf2012/18811336 Have a great week, Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" From sumton at sbcglobal.net Wed Jan 11 10:16:14 2012 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2012 11:16:14 -0600 Subject: [TR] what is it??? Message-ID: <7E75A5DB2063400C92DCFDD0C4B827FB@ranteer.local> first of all, I'm not promoting anything or anyone. ran into a car on this website, and I just have to know what it is. go to www.usps.com, and on the third picture (theres a slide show) is an interesting small car. not enough detail for me to tell what it is, but distinctive enough that if you own one you'll recognize it right away. thanks! From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk Wed Jan 11 10:37:47 2012 From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2012 17:37:47 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] what is it??? In-Reply-To: <7E75A5DB2063400C92DCFDD0C4B827FB@ranteer.local> References: <7E75A5DB2063400C92DCFDD0C4B827FB@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <1326303467.68016.YahooMailNeo@web29405.mail.ird.yahoo.com> Don't give you long to check, do they? Screen curvature is a clue and I'm thinking something like Sunbeam Alpine or Sunbeam Tigger? Happy to be shot down in flames Jonmac http://standard-triumph-books.co.uk/ >________________________________ > From: oliver >To: triumphs at autox.team.net; Triumph 6 Pack <6pack at autox.team.net> >Sent: Wednesday, 11 January 2012, 17:16 >Subject: [TR] what is it??? > >first of all, I'm not promoting anything or anyone. ran into a car on this >website, and I just have to know what it is. > >go to www.usps.com, and on the third picture (theres a slide show) is an >interesting small car. not enough detail for me to tell what it is, but >distinctive enough that if you own one you'll recognize it right away. > >thanks! > >** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk From davidt at opentext.com Wed Jan 11 10:38:23 2012 From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton) Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2012 12:38:23 -0500 Subject: [TR] what is it??? In-Reply-To: <7E75A5DB2063400C92DCFDD0C4B827FB@ranteer.local> References: <7E75A5DB2063400C92DCFDD0C4B827FB@ranteer.local> Message-ID: Along those same lines you guys have seen this one right.... http://www.tomtom.com/en_us/shop/ In the "Map Update Service" section.... :-) But I was trying to figure this one out http://www.tomtom.com/page/TTMaps-Shop&Lid=4 Thanks David '59TR3a '74Spitsix -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of oliver Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2012 12:16 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; Triumph 6 Pack Subject: [TR] what is it??? first of all, I'm not promoting anything or anyone. ran into a car on this website, and I just have to know what it is. go to www.usps.com, and on the third picture (theres a slide show) is an interesting small car. not enough detail for me to tell what it is, but distinctive enough that if you own one you'll recognize it right away. thanks! From spitlist at cox.net Wed Jan 11 10:39:50 2012 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2012 10:39:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] what is it??? In-Reply-To: <7E75A5DB2063400C92DCFDD0C4B827FB@ranteer.local> References: <7E75A5DB2063400C92DCFDD0C4B827FB@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <3A943A7A603F448BA9FAE1F8B54D0A65@Vista> Same here. If I were to guess I'd have to venture that it is an Alfa Spyder. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of oliver Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2012 10:16 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; Triumph 6 Pack Subject: [TR] what is it??? first of all, I'm not promoting anything or anyone. ran into a car on this website, and I just have to know what it is. go to www.usps.com, and on the third picture (theres a slide show) is an interesting small car. not enough detail for me to tell what it is, but distinctive enough that if you own one you'll recognize it right away. thanks! ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net From sumton at sbcglobal.net Wed Jan 11 11:26:57 2012 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2012 12:26:57 -0600 Subject: [TR] what is it??? In-Reply-To: References: <7E75A5DB2063400C92DCFDD0C4B827FB@ranteer.local> Message-ID: I saw this one and wondered about it, too! > But I was trying to figure this one out > > http://www.tomtom.com/page/TTMaps-Shop&Lid=4 > that hood scoop is a dead giveaway IF you recognize it! From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jan 12 06:36:51 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2012 05:36:51 -0800 Subject: [TR] Amphicars at auction In-Reply-To: References: <1326232053.84652.YahooMailNeo@web160306.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <020201ccd12f$3e240d80$0201a8c0@randall> > How cool! Is their a video somewhere of an Amphicar swimming? Lots of them on YouTube: http://goo.gl/5JGDa -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jan 11 11:52:17 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2012 10:52:17 -0800 Subject: [TR] what is it??? In-Reply-To: <1326303467.68016.YahooMailNeo@web29405.mail.ird.yahoo.com> References: <7E75A5DB2063400C92DCFDD0C4B827FB@ranteer.local> <1326303467.68016.YahooMailNeo@web29405.mail.ird.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <067901ccd092$245b7d40$6d1277c0$@rr.com> > Don't give you long to check, do they? With IE7, I was able to right-click on the picture while it was shown, and do a "save as" to put it on my hard drive. Then I could zoom in, adjust colors, etc with my favorite photo viewer (Irfanview). I don't really know what it is either, but I'm inclined to believe Jonmac is correct. Here's a Sunbeam Alpine that I found on BAT http://goo.gl/QZx4w which has a similar shaped rearview mirror (the Alfas I found were all more nearly rectangular) and all the extra shiny hardware along the top edge. -- Randall From JGILLIS at tcd.ie Thu Jan 12 03:49:20 2012 From: JGILLIS at tcd.ie (John Gillis) Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2012 10:49:20 +0000 Subject: [TR] Number plate fixings Message-ID: Morning all (or afternoon) what is the standard approach for fixing registration number plates to the early TR's, I don't see many people using chrome bolts in any of the images in my books, would the nylon type be acceptable, I know there may be a difference either side of the pond on this one, but thought I'd ask Regards John From jdemuth at ties2.net Fri Jan 13 13:52:58 2012 From: jdemuth at ties2.net (Joe DeMuth) Date: Fri, 13 Jan 2012 14:52:58 -0600 Subject: [TR] Mounting rear fender Message-ID: <85385385-7F91-4A0E-830E-34CD134611AC@ties2.net> I bought a TR3A in pieces and am in the process of mounting the fenders (wings.) In the mounting kit from Victoria British, there is a piece of strap steel about 2 inches long with a captured nut on one end and a short 900 bend on the other. The Moss catalog says it is a clip for the back upper corner of the fender. I can not figure out where it goes and how and what it attaches to. Any help is From mark at bradakis.com Fri Jan 13 19:15:59 2012 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Fri, 13 Jan 2012 19:15:59 -0700 Subject: [TR] That was festive Message-ID: <4F10E55F.6060201@bradakis.com> Century Link is now the name of the company that used to be called Qwest. They do telecommunications, internet such as Team.Net's DSL connection, and now various entertainment products. They spent a lot of money advertising the change, and how they are so committed to customer service, blah blah blah. I, personally, didn't think that much would change. Be that as it may, the little green light on my trusty Cisco 678 DSL modem is once again brightly lit, bits are flowing once again. I do apologize for the delays, inconvenience and frustration those of you addicted to your Team.Net fix may have suffered. mjb. From mmeany at ne.rr.com Thu Jan 12 20:32:41 2012 From: mmeany at ne.rr.com (Mark Meany) Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2012 22:32:41 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4A Solid Axle e-brake connection Message-ID: <7E.1D.23543.AD5AF0F4@hrndva-omtalb.mail.rr.com> Gents, Would someone clue me in to the wheel cylinder/e-brake lever orientation on a non-IRS car? I'm not certain the brake assembly backing plate was assembled to the axle correctly. It's currently vertical, towards the front of the car if you will, at about 4 o'clock (driver's side plate) as viewed from the differential. If you could answer me directly as well as to the list, that'd be great since I'm on digest. I couldn't find any photos of this in the half dozen or so publications I have. Mark Meany Keene, NH Long time lurker From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jan 13 23:25:18 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 13 Jan 2012 22:25:18 -0800 Subject: [TR] Mounting rear fender In-Reply-To: <85385385-7F91-4A0E-830E-34CD134611AC@ties2.net> References: <85385385-7F91-4A0E-830E-34CD134611AC@ties2.net> Message-ID: <013e01ccd285$49b42d90$0201a8c0@randall> There is a row of bolts with special screwdriver heads on each side of the trunk lid, in the drip rail. All of those bolts except the rearmost on each side, go into captive nuts in the fender. The rearmost bolts screw into those pieces of strap steel. The steel is positioned so the little bend on the other end also presses against the lip, holding the fender against the body just above the rear tail lights. Sorry, I did have some photos but I can't find them now. -- Randall From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Wed Jan 11 17:34:52 2012 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2012 19:34:52 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR2 conversion to disc brakes Message-ID: Hi All - I've looked through the archives and have not seen much on this topic. Finally time to get moving on my conversion to disc brakes on the TR2. I have 2 front suspension assemblies that were ruthlessly cut from a TR3 and also have a distribution 5 way tee fitting with the the long standoff and brake switch and all mating fittings. I will retain the lockheed master cylineder - but hope to just fit new pipes with lockheed on one side and girling on the other to adapt. Do you have any words of wisdom - i.e did you have to add any brackets or make any other special provision? Also - could use some detail pics of TR3's with disc brakes - especially where the flex hoses terminate and where the 5 way junction mounts. As an update -- Bill Lynn of VTR got me my Build record on the TR2 and the engine number matches my title number - things are looking up - I'm not making any modifications until I get the title but preparation continues. As an aside - the front suspension assembiles that I got were terribly rusted and caked with dirt and who knows what else - They were on the earth in a barn for many years - I've been squirting them with penetrating oil every day for the last few days. . I gave them a quick sandblast to remove dirt and gunk and took the impact wrench and hammer to the ball and tie rod joints. A few hefty blows with the BFH and all the tie/ball joints came apart neatly. - The bleed screws and hoses came off each caliper (the tr3 version without external piping) but I broke the bolts that hold the pads in place. All that done - time to see what I had - I spent about 5 mins and blasted each caliper a bit more - especially around the pistons - Yuck - just a toothy rusted mess - I filled each with aero-kroil - again 30 year old gallon can from years ago. and let them sit for while - hopeful that they were not leaking around the pistons. After a few hours, I went to work - nothing - clamps did not move them - hammers and chisels - I decided to try the grease gun approach - I took one of the grease fittings from the discarded trunnions and took one of the hydraulic hoses and mated them together with by shortening the fitting and tapping with 5/16 tap similar to the threads on the trunnion - put it all together and..... it leaked. Plumber solder and flux and got a good seal. It worked great - I saw one move and clamped it down until the other moved - then just pumped until each was out as far as possible - I could see clean chorme on the pistons! Now to spend a few hours picking the rubber and rust out of the calipers for the dust seal - that part of the caliper is really quite rusted but most of the groove is still intact. Anyone tried the BPNW pistons - they have some kind of plating that sounds cool - and do you know if they work on the TR3 calipers? Thanks, Chris From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Wed Jan 11 14:37:48 2012 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2012 14:37:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] what is it??? In-Reply-To: <1326303467.68016.YahooMailNeo@web29405.mail.ird.yahoo.com> References: <7E75A5DB2063400C92DCFDD0C4B827FB@ranteer.local> <1326303467.68016.YahooMailNeo@web29405.mail.ird.yahoo.com> Message-ID: On Wed, Jan 11, 2012 at 10:37 AM, John Macartney < flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk> wrote: > Don't give you long to check, do they? > Here's a pic you can stare at: http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/USPS.jpg I agree that it looks Italian. Geo From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Wed Jan 11 14:52:08 2012 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2012 14:52:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] tire codes In-Reply-To: <62674.6a572b06.3c3e3cc3@aol.com> References: <62674.6a572b06.3c3e3cc3@aol.com> Message-ID: On Tue, Jan 10, 2012 at 6:15 PM, wrote: > I am about to order new tires for the TR2... The size that will be ordered > is 155R15 > - not a fast seller... > Lou -- I have ordered several sets of tires from these guys -- great prices, real fast delivery, reasonable shipping charge and all the tires I got were very 'fresh': http://ssl.delti.com/cgi-bin/rshop.pl?dsco=135&sowigan=&Breite=155&Quer=&Felge=15&Speed=&kategorie=6&LoadRange=&Marke=&ranzahl=4&suchen=View+tires 75 bucks for Vredesteins looks like a smokin' good price to me! Geo From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk Sat Jan 14 04:59:28 2012 From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2012 11:59:28 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] what is it??? In-Reply-To: References: <7E75A5DB2063400C92DCFDD0C4B827FB@ranteer.local> <1326303467.68016.YahooMailNeo@web29405.mail.ird.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1326542368.37401.YahooMailNeo@web29406.mail.ird.yahoo.com> Having looked again at the pic, I'm still thinking there's a Sunbeam Alpine/Tigger look to it - but I'm also leaning strongly towards Alfa Duetto as well. Flatmate friend had a 1967 Duetto with a high lip to the instrument panel and the soft-top was ludicrously easy to unlatch and fold - unlike the Triumphs we were both selling at the time. What's more, the soft-top hardware along the top of the screenrail looks strongly Alfa oriented. Jonmac http://standard-triumph-books.co.uk/ >________________________________ > From: Geo Hahn >To: Triumphs >Sent: Wednesday, 11 January 2012, 21:37 >Subject: Re: [TR] what is it??? > >On Wed, Jan 11, 2012 at 10:37 AM, John Macartney < >flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk> wrote: > >> Don't give you long to check, do they? >> > > >Here's a pic you can stare at: > >http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/USPS.jpg > > >I agree that it looks Italian. > >Geo > >** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk From tr6parts at charter.net Sat Jan 14 05:25:39 2012 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2012 07:25:39 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR2 conversion to disc brakes References: Message-ID: <2330AA63CA6642D7BB97A301448142F5@Alan> I've used the pistons from TRF and BPNW; on TR6's. They both work great. Al ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chris Simo" To: "list Triumph" Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2012 7:34 PM Subject: [TR] TR2 conversion to disc brakes > Hi All - I've looked through the archives and have not seen much on this > topic. > > Finally time to get moving on my conversion to disc brakes on the TR2. > > I have 2 front suspension assemblies that were ruthlessly cut from a TR3 > and also have a distribution 5 way tee fitting with the the long standoff > and brake switch and all mating fittings. > > I will retain the lockheed master cylineder - but hope to just fit new > pipes with lockheed on one side and girling on the other to adapt. > > Do you have any words of wisdom - i.e did you have to add any brackets or > make any other special provision? > > Also - could use some detail pics of TR3's with disc brakes - especially > where the flex hoses terminate and where the 5 way junction mounts. > > As an update -- Bill Lynn of VTR got me my Build record on the TR2 and the > engine number matches my title number - things are looking up - I'm not > making any modifications until I get the title but preparation continues. > > As an aside - the front suspension assembiles that I got were terribly > rusted and caked with dirt and who knows what else - They were on the > earth > in a barn for many years - I've been squirting them with penetrating oil > every day for the last few days. . I gave them a quick sandblast to remove > dirt and gunk and took the impact wrench and hammer to the ball and tie > rod > joints. A few hefty blows with the BFH and all the tie/ball joints came > apart neatly. - The bleed screws and hoses came off each caliper (the tr3 > version without external piping) but I broke the bolts that hold the pads > in place. > > All that done - time to see what I had - I spent about 5 mins and blasted > each caliper a bit more - especially around the pistons - Yuck - just a > toothy rusted mess - I filled each with aero-kroil - again 30 year old > gallon can from years ago. and let them sit for while - hopeful that they > were not leaking around the pistons. After a few hours, I went to work - > nothing - clamps did not move them - hammers and chisels - I decided to > try > the grease gun approach - I took one of the grease fittings from the > discarded trunnions and took one of the hydraulic hoses and mated them > together with by shortening the fitting and tapping with 5/16 tap similar > to the threads on the trunnion - put it all together and..... it leaked. > Plumber solder and flux and got a good seal. It worked great - I saw one > move and clamped it down until the other moved - then just pumped until > each was out as far as possible - I could see clean chorme on the pistons! > Now to spend a few hours picking the rubber and rust out of the calipers > for the dust seal - that part of the caliper is really quite rusted but > most of the groove is still intact. > > Anyone tried the BPNW pistons - they have some kind of plating that sounds > cool - and do you know if they work on the TR3 calipers? > > Thanks, > > Chris > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr6parts at charter.net From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sat Jan 14 05:29:51 2012 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2012 07:29:51 -0500 Subject: [TR] Number plate fixings In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I haven't seen any responses on this so I'll throw out "one man's opinion" OMOl... Whatever you feel like... or if you are into cosmetics - whatever you think looks good. I am not being flippant. I would imagine that dealers in the fifties just used a steel bolt/nut; nylon was available and chrome could be purchased at the local hardware store. If I were to mount a front plate (not needed here in Florida) I would probably go for chrome and a thin chrome frame around it. In the back - probably a chrome or black frame and the nylon type with a thick rubber washer between plate and paint (not to mar the paint). Just my two cents worth... Carl 1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ Still being restored - but 2012 looks like the year.. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Gillis Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2012 5:49 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Number plate fixings Morning all (or afternoon) what is the standard approach for fixing registration number plates to the early TR's, I don't see many people using chrome bolts in any of the images in my books, would the nylon type be acceptable, I know there may be a difference either side of the pond on this one, but thought I'd ask Regards John ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sat Jan 14 06:07:15 2012 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2012 08:07:15 -0500 Subject: [TR] Inquiring minds Message-ID: Reference: http://www.ebay.com/itm/330668345088 The 'front' transmission has green wires that appear to be connected to a brake-like switch on both sides of the top cover. What would these wires/switches operated? Thanks Carl 1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ Still being restored - but 2012 looks like the year.. From willgray at vaxxine.com Sat Jan 14 06:49:12 2012 From: willgray at vaxxine.com (David Willett) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2012 08:49:12 -0500 Subject: [TR] Race Through Paris Message-ID: <2CC21375-8C8E-490C-BDDA-4E06A198F2DB@vaxxine.com> I'm sorry this is wildly off topic, but I wondered if anyone knows whether the video of the "Race through Paris" is still accessible. I watched it several years ago, and have accessed the original site (http://bhendrix.com/wall/Gmaps_GVideo_Mashup_Rendezvous.htm)l, but although the route map is still there, the actual video seems to have gone. I realise there were questions about the authenticity of this stunt, but it was good for a laugh and to see a bit of Paris anyway. Dave David Willett willgray at vaxxine.com Ph: 905 468 0608 From dave1massey at cs.com Sat Jan 14 07:01:06 2012 From: dave1massey at cs.com (Dave Massey) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2012 09:01:06 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Race Through Paris In-Reply-To: <2CC21375-8C8E-490C-BDDA-4E06A198F2DB@vaxxine.com> References: <2CC21375-8C8E-490C-BDDA-4E06A198F2DB@vaxxine.com> Message-ID: <8CEA0DC1820BA99-1E78-A1541@webmail-m085.sysops.aol.com> I didn't find the film either but there is a Wikipedia page on it: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/C%27%C3%A9tait_un_rendez-vous According to this site there was some sound dubbing but the film was convincing enough to ern the film maker a citation from the Paris police. Just another achievement for the CV. Dave Massey -----Original Message----- From: David Willett To: triumphs Sent: Sat, Jan 14, 2012 7:49 am Subject: [TR] Race Through Paris I'm sorry this is wildly off topic, but I wondered if anyone knows whether the video of the "Race through Paris" is still accessible. I watched it several years ago, and have accessed the original site (http://bhendrix.com/wall/Gmaps_GVideo_Mashup_Rendezvous.htm)l, but although the route map is still there, the actual video seems to have gone. I realise there were questions about the authenticity of this stunt, but it was good for a laugh and to see a bit of Paris anyway. Dave David Willett willgray at vaxxine.com Ph: 905 468 0608 ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com From wbeech at flash.net Sat Jan 14 07:24:43 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2012 08:24:43 -0600 Subject: [TR] Number plate fixings In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <69DB18B5FA89410A89333548B2996319@bboffice> As far a originality, probably anything goes that does the job. As this was most likely at the dealers discretion, it was probably the wash boy that was assigned the job of putting the plates on. I have a brass 1/4-20 nuts and bolts on the bottom and then I turned a couple of bolts around on the top and so I could hang a YOM plate over my Antique Car plate when I go to a show. Just do some that looks nice with your car, and it should be fine. Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Gillis Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2012 4:49 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Number plate fixings Morning all (or afternoon) what is the standard approach for fixing registration number plates to the early TR's, I don't see many people using chrome bolts in any of the images in my books, would the nylon type be acceptable, I know there may be a difference either side of the pond on this one, but thought I'd ask Regards John ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sat Jan 14 08:17:30 2012 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2012 10:17:30 -0500 Subject: [TR] Number plate fixings In-Reply-To: <69DB18B5FA89410A89333548B2996319@bboffice> References: <69DB18B5FA89410A89333548B2996319@bboffice> Message-ID: <4F119C8A.4050106@adelphia.net> I used 1/4 20 stainless steel bolts, nuts and washers on front and back. Looks nice and never will rust or tarnish. I get all my SS hardware from McMaster - Carr. Bob On 01/14/2012 09:24 AM, wbeech at flash.net wrote: > Subject: [TR] Number plate fixings > > Morning all (or afternoon) what is the standard approach for fixing > registration number plates to the early TR's, I don't see many people using > chrome bolts in any of the images in my books, would the nylon type be > acceptable, I know there may be a difference either side of the pond on this > one, but thought I'd ask Regards John From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sat Jan 14 08:21:32 2012 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2012 09:21:32 -0600 Subject: [TR] tire codes In-Reply-To: References: <62674.6a572b06.3c3e3cc3@aol.com> Message-ID: I usually get mine from tirerack.com -------------------------------------------------- From: "Geo Hahn" Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2012 3:52 PM To: Cc: Subject: Re: [TR] tire codes > On Tue, Jan 10, 2012 at 6:15 PM, wrote: > >> I am about to order new tires for the TR2... The size that will be >> ordered >> is 155R15 >> - not a fast seller... >> > > > Lou -- > > I have ordered several sets of tires from these guys -- great prices, real > fast delivery, reasonable shipping charge and all the tires I got were > very > 'fresh': > > http://ssl.delti.com/cgi-bin/rshop.pl?dsco=135&sowigan=&Breite=155&Quer=&Felge=15&Speed=&kategorie=6&LoadRange=&Marke=&ranzahl=4&suchen=View+tires > > 75 bucks for Vredesteins looks like a smokin' good price to me! > > Geo From spitfire at freebacon.net Sat Jan 14 09:30:13 2012 From: spitfire at freebacon.net (Mike Welch) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2012 09:30:13 -0700 Subject: [TR] Inquiring minds In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <9C09EE59B47947629C798E7EC7B4BB42@Spike> Moss Motors online says that those would be for the overdrive, seat belt interlock and reverse switches. Mike Welch Colorado Springs, CO '69 Triumph Spitfire MkIII x2 '69 Honda SL350 -----Original Message----- From: Carl TR Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2012 6:07 AM To: TR List Subject: [TR] Inquiring minds Reference: http://www.ebay.com/itm/330668345088 The 'front' transmission has green wires that appear to be connected to a brake-like switch on both sides of the top cover. What would these wires/switches operated? Thanks Carl From JGILLIS at tcd.ie Sat Jan 14 10:25:32 2012 From: JGILLIS at tcd.ie (John Gillis) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2012 17:25:32 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR2 mirror update and mystery car Message-ID: Just to say Carls idea of releasing the screen and just sliding it forward worked a treat!, no hassle, one man job, and left enough room for me to run my 10/32 tap in the captive nuts using a small spanner to turn the tap. Re the mystery car it does remind me of those little convertible Honda's of the 60's????? John From anabil007 at comcast.net Sat Jan 14 10:37:55 2012 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2012 09:37:55 -0800 Subject: [TR] tire codes In-Reply-To: References: <62674.6a572b06.3c3e3cc3@aol.com> Message-ID: I have used P185/65R15 Dunlop Sport A2 with great success, Casper won a prize at the Lake Tahoe Triumphest for "eating" the most cones on one run ... > > > >> On Tue, Jan 10, 2012 at 6:15 PM, wrote: >> >>> I am about to order new tires for the TR2... The size that will be ordered >>> is 155R15 >>> - not a fast seller... >>> >> >> >> Lou -- >> "Life is too short to drive Boring Cars" Bill Pugh Wallace, CA Casper 1957 TR3 TS16665L anabil007 at comcast.net From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Jan 14 11:07:34 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2012 10:07:34 -0800 Subject: [TR] Race Through Paris In-Reply-To: <8CEA0DC1820BA99-1E78-A1541@webmail-m085.sysops.aol.com> References: <2CC21375-8C8E-490C-BDDA-4E06A198F2DB@vaxxine.com> <8CEA0DC1820BA99-1E78-A1541@webmail-m085.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <018401ccd2e7$64a22cd0$0201a8c0@randall> > I didn't find the film either but there is a Wikipedia page on it: > http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/C%27%C3%A9tait_un_rendez-vous The video that matches that Wiki page is at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-NJzrv4MaMo -- Randall From spitlist at cox.net Sat Jan 14 11:10:24 2012 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2012 11:10:24 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR2 mirror update and mystery car In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I doubt it is one of those 60's Hondas. It is waaaaaay too big! Joe C. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Gillis Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2012 10:26 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR2 mirror update and mystery car Just to say Carls idea of releasing the screen and just sliding it forward worked a treat!, no hassle, one man job, and left enough room for me to run my 10/32 tap in the captive nuts using a small spanner to turn the tap. Re the mystery car it does remind me of those little convertible Honda's of the 60's????? John ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Jan 14 11:17:20 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2012 10:17:20 -0800 Subject: [TR] Inquiring minds In-Reply-To: <9C09EE59B47947629C798E7EC7B4BB42@Spike> References: <9C09EE59B47947629C798E7EC7B4BB42@Spike> Message-ID: <018801ccd2e8$c1d79b00$0201a8c0@randall> > Moss Motors online says that those would be for the > overdrive, seat belt > interlock and reverse switches. I agree with neutral interlock and reverse light; but the OD switch can't be on the side. It needs to sense the 3/4 shift rail, which is the one in the middle. -- Randall From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Sat Jan 14 12:08:36 2012 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2012 12:08:36 -0700 Subject: [TR] Race Through Paris In-Reply-To: <018401ccd2e7$64a22cd0$0201a8c0@randall> References: <2CC21375-8C8E-490C-BDDA-4E06A198F2DB@vaxxine.com> <8CEA0DC1820BA99-1E78-A1541@webmail-m085.sysops.aol.com> <018401ccd2e7$64a22cd0$0201a8c0@randall> Message-ID: I guess I'll never tire of watching that. I'm no Claude Lelouch but I did my own version by mounting a camera on the front bumper of the TR4. As Claude demostrated, a low angle enhances the sense of speed. Wind noise is considerable so I can believe they had to clean up the sound a bit. No pigeons on our road but Skippy the Stunt Squirrel makes a daring appearance at 1:15... http://youtu.be/WP0JPla3kNw Geo On Sat, Jan 14, 2012 at 11:07 AM, Randall wrote: > The video that matches that Wiki page is at > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-NJzrv4MaMo > > -- Randall From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sat Jan 14 12:05:45 2012 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2012 13:05:45 -0600 Subject: [TR] [6pack] what is it??? In-Reply-To: <9CCC61DD86D67049B241705B6F03890B0157F6100492@HSCSEMAIL41.hscs.virginia.edu> References: <7E75A5DB2063400C92DCFDD0C4B827FB@ranteer.local>, <9CCC61DD86D67049B241705B6F03890B0157F6100492@HSCSEMAIL41.hscs.virginia.edu> Message-ID: <3DAC2B28B39D4A5FB4B1447F004C9278@ranteer.local> an italia is a coupe, not a convertible. I think its too wide to be foreign; I'm thinking an early dart or something like that -------------------------------------------------- From: "Ruffner, James A *HS" Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2012 12:25 PM To: "oliver" ; ; "Triumph 6 Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: RE: [6pack] [TR] what is it??? > I think this is something like an "Italia," and is based on the TR-6. It > is made by another custom body designer, maybe Ghia. When I was a kid > back in the early '60's I saw a coupe that was built on a TR-3 frame, with > all the suspension and running gear, on the showroom floor along with the > TR-3As. From willgray at vaxxine.com Sat Jan 14 12:52:52 2012 From: willgray at vaxxine.com (David Willett) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2012 14:52:52 -0500 Subject: [TR] Re Race Through Paris Message-ID: Thank you everyone! The video is as good as I remember it. Dave David Willett willgray at vaxxine.com Ph: 905 468 0608 From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sat Jan 14 13:11:07 2012 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2012 15:11:07 -0500 Subject: [TR] Inquiring minds In-Reply-To: <9C09EE59B47947629C798E7EC7B4BB42@Spike> References: <9C09EE59B47947629C798E7EC7B4BB42@Spike> Message-ID: <000001ccd2f8$a7d183f0$f7748bd0$@net> I looked at the Moss TR6 diagram - the o/d switch is on top in the middle. Could it be that one side is the seatbelt interlock and the other (driver's) side is reverse? Is this where the switch would be for a late TR3 or would it be located where the third raised area is by the two o/d switches on the TR3 transmission? Reference: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Triumph-TR6-TR250-TR3-TR4-Stanpart-Manual-Transmissi on-Shifter-Housing-/220904003059 Note the hole in the middle one in the image for the o/d switch. 1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ getting closer. 2012 is the year! -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike Welch Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2012 11:30 AM To: cfmtr3a at verizon.net; TR List Subject: Re: [TR] Inquiring minds Moss Motors online says that those would be for the overdrive, seat belt interlock and reverse switches. Mike Welch Colorado Springs, CO '69 Triumph Spitfire MkIII x2 '69 Honda SL350 -----Original Message----- From: Carl TR Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2012 6:07 AM To: TR List Subject: [TR] Inquiring minds Reference: http://www.ebay.com/itm/330668345088 The 'front' transmission has green wires that appear to be connected to a brake-like switch on both sides of the top cover. What would these wires/switches operated? Thanks Carl ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net From wbeech at flash.net Sat Jan 14 14:19:56 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2012 15:19:56 -0600 Subject: [TR] Shade tree Timing Message-ID: <94163CA8E0084C9AB32B01795BADFD5E@bboffice> Not having marked my pulley with a degree wheel when I had it apart a few years back, I am trying to guestimate what 4 degrees BTDC looks like in terms of inches/millimeters. I am kind of thinking that if the TDC mark flashes about 1/4-3/8 before the pointer that I am pretty close. Has anyone ever put a ruler to this before? Best, Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" From wbeech at flash.net Sat Jan 14 15:36:17 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2012 16:36:17 -0600 Subject: [TR] Race Through Paris In-Reply-To: <2CC21375-8C8E-490C-BDDA-4E06A198F2DB@vaxxine.com> References: <2CC21375-8C8E-490C-BDDA-4E06A198F2DB@vaxxine.com> Message-ID: <5FA8801E74314AE09D640352A97C878D@bboffice> Here it is on YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f8Vo8iGLMwk An amazing bit of driving, but an idiot for all the dangerous situations for himself and others. Of course, in the end he get the girl. Maybe this should be a clip from the old French movie "A Man And A Woman" Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Willett Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2012 7:49 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Race Through Paris I'm sorry this is wildly off topic, but I wondered if anyone knows whether the video of the "Race through Paris" is still accessible. I watched it several years ago, and have accessed the original site (http://bhendrix.com/wall/Gmaps_GVideo_Mashup_Rendezvous.htm)l, but although the route map is still there, the actual video seems to have gone. I realise there were questions about the authenticity of this stunt, but it was good for a laugh and to see a bit of Paris anyway. Dave David Willett willgray at vaxxine.com Ph: 905 468 0608 ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Sat Jan 14 16:05:39 2012 From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2012 18:05:39 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Condensor/capacitor question Message-ID: <7b46.f7bde18.3c436442@aol.com> Hi everyone; My TR3A demonstrates a fault that could be as simple as a failing condensor. Basically, it loses power dramatically after about half an hour of driving, then eventually fades to stalling. If I leave it just a few minutes, the car will start and run perfectly for a couple of miles, then we start the same cycle again. It could be many other things, I know, such as dirt in the fuel tank, bad pump, trouble with SU's, a bad coil, etc., etc. However, want I would like to do is make sure I have the problem cured while it's in the workshop and before it's time to take it out of winter storage and start driving it. Because of the nature of my work, I won't have time to be working on it once Spring comes. I'd rather not replace the condensor and coil, rebuild the carbs, take out the tank and get it cleaned/lined, etc. etc., if I don't need to. I'd like to start by renewing the condensor, then somehow testing the removed one to see if that cured it. There's over a foot of snow on the ground now and much more will be on it's way before Spring, so I'm not driving it to test it! Thoughts? Tim TS22930LO Ontario, Canada From spitlist at cox.net Sat Jan 14 16:08:57 2012 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2012 16:08:57 -0700 Subject: [TR] Condensor/capacitor question In-Reply-To: <7b46.f7bde18.3c436442@aol.com> References: <7b46.f7bde18.3c436442@aol.com> Message-ID: <3BB10FBA4FE74237B7478AF6E5DA2665@Vista> Check the fuel filler cap as soon as it stalls. If you hear the sound of air rushing into the tank, you have a venting problem causing a vacuum in the tank. I bet the car will start right up after releasing the vacuum. It has happened to me and might be your problem as well. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2012 4:06 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Condensor/capacitor question Hi everyone; My TR3A demonstrates a fault that could be as simple as a failing condensor. Basically, it loses power dramatically after about half an hour of driving, then eventually fades to stalling. If I leave it just a few minutes, the car will start and run perfectly for a couple of miles, then we start the same cycle again. It could be many other things, I know, such as dirt in the fuel tank, bad pump, trouble with SU's, a bad coil, etc., etc. However, want I would like to do is make sure I have the problem cured while it's in the workshop and before it's time to take it out of winter storage and start driving it. Because of the nature of my work, I won't have time to be working on it once Spring comes. I'd rather not replace the condensor and coil, rebuild the carbs, take out the tank and get it cleaned/lined, etc. etc., if I don't need to. I'd like to start by renewing the condensor, then somehow testing the removed one to see if that cured it. There's over a foot of snow on the ground now and much more will be on it's way before Spring, so I'm not driving it to test it! Thoughts? Tim TS22930LO Ontario, Canada ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net From dconnitt at fuse.net Sat Jan 14 16:17:08 2012 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2012 18:17:08 -0500 Subject: [TR] Shade tree Timing In-Reply-To: <94163CA8E0084C9AB32B01795BADFD5E@bboffice> References: <94163CA8E0084C9AB32B01795BADFD5E@bboffice> Message-ID: <6660C46BB8B541D197CADB9507E19BDF@DaveLaptop> Bill, I came across this link awhile back regarding locating TDC on an assembled engine and then deterimining where to put the timing mark. http://tr4triumph.blogspot.com/search?updated-min=2011-01-01T00%3A00%3A00Z&updated-max=2012-01-01T00%3A00%3A00Z&max-results=6 It seems like it would work but I haven't tried it. Regards, Dave Connitt '67 TR4A IRS http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2012 4:19 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Shade tree Timing > Not having marked my pulley with a degree wheel when I had it apart a few > years back, I am trying to guestimate what 4 degrees BTDC looks like in > terms of inches/millimeters. > > I am kind of thinking that if the TDC mark flashes about 1/4-3/8 before > the > pointer that I am pretty close. Has anyone ever put a ruler to this > before? > > Best, > Bill > > Bill Beecher > '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" > www.triumphowners.com/1566 > "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of > course, some times it is difficult to make it go" > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dconnitt at fuse.net From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Sat Jan 14 16:19:12 2012 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2012 15:19:12 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Condensor/capacitor question In-Reply-To: <7b46.f7bde18.3c436442@aol.com> References: <7b46.f7bde18.3c436442@aol.com> Message-ID: <1326583152.25617.YahooMailNeo@web120215.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> sounds like a coil Frank ________________________________ From: "KingsCreekTrees at aol.com" To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2012 3:05 PM Subject: [TR] Condensor/capacitor question Hi everyone; My TR3A demonstrates a fault that could be as simple as a failing condensor. Basically, it loses power dramatically after about half an hour of driving, then eventually fades to stalling. If I leave it just a few minutes, the car will start and run perfectly for a couple of miles, then we start the same cycle again. It could be many other things, I know, such as dirt in the fuel tank, bad pump, trouble with SU's, a bad coil, etc., etc. However, want I would like to do is make sure I have the problem cured while it's in the workshop and before it's time to take it out of winter storage and start driving it. Because of the nature of my work, I won't have time to be working on it once Spring comes. I'd rather not replace the condensor and coil, rebuild the carbs, take out the tank and get it cleaned/lined, etc. etc., if I don't need to. I'd like to start by renewing the condensor, then somehow testing the removed one to see if that cured it. There's over a foot of snow on the ground now and much more will be on it's way before Spring, so I'm not driving it to test it! Thoughts? Tim TS22930LO Ontario, Canada ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From tjwakeman at gmail.com Sat Jan 14 16:22:27 2012 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2012 16:22:27 -0700 Subject: [TR] Inquiring minds In-Reply-To: <018801ccd2e8$c1d79b00$0201a8c0@randall> References: <9C09EE59B47947629C798E7EC7B4BB42@Spike> <018801ccd2e8$c1d79b00$0201a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <4F120E33.2030302@gmail.com> On 1/14/12 11:17 AM, Randall wrote: > I agree with neutral interlock and reverse light; but the OD switch can't be > on the side. It needs to sense the 3/4 shift rail, which is the one in the > middle. > Umm What's a neutral interlock? Just wondering Teriann From wbeech at flash.net Sat Jan 14 16:23:57 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2012 17:23:57 -0600 Subject: [TR] Condensor/capacitor question In-Reply-To: <7b46.f7bde18.3c436442@aol.com> References: <7b46.f7bde18.3c436442@aol.com> Message-ID: Tim, Try your points first, they may be set too close and closing up after things warm up. Condensers are cheap, replace it anyway, I always carry a spare even though I have never lost one. There was just a good thread a few weeks back on testing the coil. Of course, crud in the fuel line is a true possibility. I keep a glass, barrel-type form my FLAPS, filter just ahead of number one carb. An easy check for contaminates or water would be to pop the tops off your SU float bowls and see what is lurking at the bottom of the bowl under the float. Just my thoughts as to a place to start, Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2012 5:06 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Condensor/capacitor question Hi everyone; My TR3A demonstrates a fault that could be as simple as a failing condensor. Basically, it loses power dramatically after about half an hour of driving, then eventually fades to stalling. If I leave it just a few minutes, the car will start and run perfectly for a couple of miles, then we start the same cycle again. It could be many other things, I know, such as dirt in the fuel tank, bad pump, trouble with SU's, a bad coil, etc., etc. However, want I would like to do is make sure I have the problem cured while it's in the workshop and before it's time to take it out of winter storage and start driving it. Because of the nature of my work, I won't have time to be working on it once Spring comes. I'd rather not replace the condensor and coil, rebuild the carbs, take out the tank and get it cleaned/lined, etc. etc., if I don't need to. I'd like to start by renewing the condensor, then somehow testing the removed one to see if that cured it. There's over a foot of snow on the ground now and much more will be on it's way before Spring, so I'm not driving it to test it! Thoughts? Tim TS22930LO Ontario, Canada ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From wbeech at flash.net Sat Jan 14 16:44:14 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2012 17:44:14 -0600 Subject: [TR] Shade tree Timing In-Reply-To: <6660C46BB8B541D197CADB9507E19BDF@DaveLaptop> References: <94163CA8E0084C9AB32B01795BADFD5E@bboffice> <6660C46BB8B541D197CADB9507E19BDF@DaveLaptop> Message-ID: Dave, This is it, thanks. So, assuming the mark on my wheel is TDC, 4 degrees = 4.8mm or .189" or 3/16". Can someone check my math? Thanks, bill -----Original Message----- From: Dave Connitt [mailto:dconnitt at fuse.net] Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2012 5:17 PM To: wbeech at flash.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Shade tree Timing Bill, I came across this link awhile back regarding locating TDC on an assembled engine and then deterimining where to put the timing mark. http://tr4triumph.blogspot.com/search?updated-min=2011-01-01T00%3A00%3A00Z&u pdated-max=2012-01-01T00%3A00%3A00Z&max-results=6 It seems like it would work but I haven't tried it. Regards, Dave Connitt '67 TR4A IRS http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2012 4:19 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Shade tree Timing > Not having marked my pulley with a degree wheel when I had it apart a few > years back, I am trying to guestimate what 4 degrees BTDC looks like in > terms of inches/millimeters. > > I am kind of thinking that if the TDC mark flashes about 1/4-3/8 before > the > pointer that I am pretty close. Has anyone ever put a ruler to this > before? > > Best, > Bill > > Bill Beecher > '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" > www.triumphowners.com/1566 > "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of > course, some times it is difficult to make it go" > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dconnitt at fuse.net From tr6guy at cox.net Sat Jan 14 18:25:47 2012 From: tr6guy at cox.net (Jim Henningsen) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2012 20:25:47 -0500 Subject: [TR] Race Through Paris In-Reply-To: <2CC21375-8C8E-490C-BDDA-4E06A198F2DB@vaxxine.com> References: <2CC21375-8C8E-490C-BDDA-4E06A198F2DB@vaxxine.com> Message-ID: <000901ccd324$9c6f1230$d54d3690$@net> I saw it on YouTube about a year ago. Jim Henningsen -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Willett Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2012 8:49 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Race Through Paris I'm sorry this is wildly off topic, but I wondered if anyone knows whether the video of the "Race through Paris" is still accessible. I watched it several years ago, and have accessed the original site (http://bhendrix.com/wall/Gmaps_GVideo_Mashup_Rendezvous.htm)l, but although the route map is still there, the actual video seems to have gone. I realise there were questions about the authenticity of this stunt, but it was good for a laugh and to see a bit of Paris anyway. Dave David Willett willgray at vaxxine.com Ph: 905 468 0608 ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr6guy at cox.net From dconnitt at fuse.net Sat Jan 14 18:53:47 2012 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2012 20:53:47 -0500 Subject: [TR] Shade tree Timing In-Reply-To: References: <94163CA8E0084C9AB32B01795BADFD5E@bboffice> <6660C46BB8B541D197CADB9507E19BDF@DaveLaptop> Message-ID: <5795677AAF6247B7A5BBFC369DE677FF@DaveLaptop> Bill, Did you measure the diameter of your crankshaft pulley? I have a new stock one down in the garage. I will measure it tomorrow and let you know what I come up with. I imagine all the stock pulleys are the same diameter. I thought it was pretty interesting how the punched hole in the pulley was off so much from actual TDC. Of course that assumes that the gentleman's technique was that accurate.. I will let you know tomorrow on the diameter and what each degree works out to but it sounds like you are pretty close. Dave Connitt ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "'Dave Connitt'" ; Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2012 6:44 PM Subject: RE: [TR] Shade tree Timing > Dave, > This is it, thanks. So, assuming the mark on my wheel is TDC, 4 degrees = > 4.8mm or .189" or 3/16". > > Can someone check my math? > > Thanks, > bill > > -----Original Message----- > From: Dave Connitt [mailto:dconnitt at fuse.net] > Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2012 5:17 PM > To: wbeech at flash.net; triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] Shade tree Timing > > Bill, > I came across this link awhile back regarding locating TDC on an assembled > engine and then deterimining where to put the timing mark. > > http://tr4triumph.blogspot.com/search?updated-min=2011-01-01T00%3A00%3A00Z&u > pdated-max=2012-01-01T00%3A00%3A00Z&max-results=6 > > It seems like it would work but I haven't tried it. > > Regards, > Dave Connitt > '67 TR4A IRS > http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > To: > Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2012 4:19 PM > Subject: Re: [TR] Shade tree Timing > > >> Not having marked my pulley with a degree wheel when I had it apart a few >> years back, I am trying to guestimate what 4 degrees BTDC looks like in >> terms of inches/millimeters. >> >> I am kind of thinking that if the TDC mark flashes about 1/4-3/8 before >> the >> pointer that I am pretty close. Has anyone ever put a ruler to this >> before? >> >> Best, >> Bill >> >> Bill Beecher >> '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" >> www.triumphowners.com/1566 >> "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of >> course, some times it is difficult to make it go" >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dconnitt at fuse.net From jmitch at snet.net Sat Jan 14 19:04:59 2012 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2012 21:04:59 -0500 Subject: [TR] Condensor/capacitor question In-Reply-To: <7b46.f7bde18.3c436442@aol.com> References: <7b46.f7bde18.3c436442@aol.com> Message-ID: <4F12344B.3080204@snet.net> Had the exact same symptoms on my TR6 this summer. Change the coil first. John Mitchell 76 TR6 72 Stag On 1/14/2012 6:05 PM, KingsCreekTrees at aol.com wrote: > Hi everyone; > > My TR3A demonstrates a fault that could be as simple as a failing > condensor. Basically, it loses power dramatically after about half an hour of > driving, then eventually fades to stalling. If I leave it just a few minutes, > the car will start and run perfectly for a couple of miles, then we start the > same cycle again. It could be many other things, I know, such as dirt in > the fuel tank, bad pump, trouble with SU's, a bad coil, etc., etc. > > However, want I would like to do is make sure I have the problem cured > while it's in the workshop and before it's time to take it out of winter > storage and start driving it. Because of the nature of my work, I won't have > time to be working on it once Spring comes. > > I'd rather not replace the condensor and coil, rebuild the carbs, take out > the tank and get it cleaned/lined, etc. etc., if I don't need to. I'd like > to start by renewing the condensor, then somehow testing the removed one to > see if that cured it. There's over a foot of snow on the ground now and > much more will be on it's way before Spring, so I'm not driving it to test it! > > Thoughts? > > Tim TS22930LO Ontario, Canada > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jmitch at snet.net From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Jan 14 19:22:05 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2012 18:22:05 -0800 Subject: [TR] Inquiring minds In-Reply-To: <4F120E33.2030302@gmail.com> References: <9C09EE59B47947629C798E7EC7B4BB42@Spike><018801ccd2e8$c1d79b00$0201a8c0@randall> <4F120E33.2030302@gmail.com> Message-ID: <01db01ccd32c$79cc0fa0$0201a8c0@randall> > Umm What's a neutral interlock? I forget the details on a TR6, but basically it's a switch that controls something that either only happens in neutral, or only happens not in neutral. For example, some cars will refuse to crank if the transmission is not in neutral. ISTR there was one year of US-spec TR6 that would not crank unless the driver's seat belt was fastened and the transmission was out of gear. Later years I think maybe it was only that the seat belt buzzer was disabled in neutral (so you could leave the car running without the dang buzzer going continuously). But I don't own a TR6 and I've probably got that wrong. I'm sure some TR6 owner will correct me promptly -- Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Jan 14 19:41:56 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2012 18:41:56 -0800 Subject: [TR] Condensor/capacitor question In-Reply-To: <7b46.f7bde18.3c436442@aol.com> References: <7b46.f7bde18.3c436442@aol.com> Message-ID: <01e201ccd32f$3f6b1dd0$0201a8c0@randall> > My TR3A demonstrates a fault that could be as simple as a failing > condensor. Seems unlikely to me, from your description. In my experience, they very rarely recover after a failure. And it wouldn't cool enough in just a few minutes to make much difference. It's also going to be very difficult to test, since it apparently works fine except under very specific, poorly understood conditions. Unfortunately, similar arguments apply to almost everything. Chasing intermittent problems is hard anyway, trying to say with certainty that you've fixed the problem without being able to test is nearly impossible. My advice, change the points, coil, condenser and rotor. Then have a new cap & wires on hand for spring. If the new coil & ignition tune-up didn't solve the problem, it only takes a minute to install the new cap & wires. FWIW, my nearly new Lucas Sports coil went thermally intermittent, but it would only work with the engine cold (and not very well even then). Of course it was a lot warmer here last summer, than it is there now. -- Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Jan 14 19:45:43 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2012 18:45:43 -0800 Subject: [TR] Inquiring minds In-Reply-To: <000001ccd2f8$a7d183f0$f7748bd0$@net> References: <9C09EE59B47947629C798E7EC7B4BB42@Spike> <000001ccd2f8$a7d183f0$f7748bd0$@net> Message-ID: <01e301ccd32f$c7289130$0201a8c0@randall> > Could it be that one side is the seatbelt interlock and the > other (driver's) > side is reverse? Yes, exactly. > Is this where the switch would be for a late TR3 No. TR3 always used the raised bosses (which were even pre-drilled and tapped on early cars). The shift rails don't even have the notches for the rear locations to work. (And of course it takes two switches for a TR3 overdrive, since it also works in 2nd gear.) I'm not sure why they switched later on, but I'm guessing it had to do with limited clearance over the front of the gearbox. -- Randall From jmitch at snet.net Sat Jan 14 19:48:54 2012 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2012 21:48:54 -0500 Subject: [TR] Inquiring minds In-Reply-To: <01db01ccd32c$79cc0fa0$0201a8c0@randall> References: <9C09EE59B47947629C798E7EC7B4BB42@Spike><018801ccd2e8$c1d79b00$0201a8c0@randall> <4F120E33.2030302@gmail.com> <01db01ccd32c$79cc0fa0$0201a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <4F123E96.5040405@snet.net> Hi Randall, I have a quick question for you. I have a new Stag overdrive transmission that was put together by Quantum Mechanics. Only problem is that the top cover has the overdrive switch way out at the front top spot on the top cover. I was a little worried about the switch hitting sheet metal when I do the transmission swap, so I picked up another top cover. This cover has 2 switches at the back, 1 on each side. Can this cover be used for overdrive, or would I need to tap another hole for an additional switch? Are the 2 switches for seat belt and reverse? Thanks for any advice. John Mitchell On 1/14/2012 9:22 PM, Randall wrote: >> Umm What's a neutral interlock? > I forget the details on a TR6, but basically it's a switch that controls > something that either only happens in neutral, or only happens not in > neutral. For example, some cars will refuse to crank if the transmission is > not in neutral. > > ISTR there was one year of US-spec TR6 that would not crank unless the > driver's seat belt was fastened and the transmission was out of gear. Later > years I think maybe it was only that the seat belt buzzer was disabled in > neutral (so you could leave the car running without the dang buzzer going > continuously). > > But I don't own a TR6 and I've probably got that wrong. I'm sure some TR6 > owner will correct me promptly > > -- Randall > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jmitch at snet.net From pethier at comcast.net Sat Jan 14 20:11:29 2012 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2012 03:11:29 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Race Through Paris In-Reply-To: <5FA8801E74314AE09D640352A97C878D@bboffice> Message-ID: <757066258.723739.1326597089100.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> ----- Original Message ----- > From: wbeech at flash.net > Of course, in the end he get the girl. Maybe this should be a clip > from the > old French movie "A Man and a Woman" Bill, I believe he made that movie, and the faster-paced "A Man and a Woman Twenty Years Later". Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://www.mnautox.com From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Sat Jan 14 20:21:39 2012 From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2012 22:21:39 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Condensor/capacitor question Message-ID: <3aa18.7a9038a4.3c43a043@aol.com> That's very interesting, Randall. I fitted a new Lucas Sport coil in 2010, and I have heard of others having problems with them. I planned to renew the coil anyway; will probably not go with the sport coil this time. Thanks for your advice. Tim FWIW, my nearly new Lucas Sports coil went thermally intermittent, but it would only work with the engine cold (and not very well even then). Of course it was a lot warmer here last summer, than it is there now. -- Randall From pethier at comcast.net Sat Jan 14 20:30:05 2012 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2012 03:30:05 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] what is it??? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <722805067.724064.1326598205048.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Geo Hahn" > Here's a pic you can stare at: > > http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/USPS.jpg > > > I agree that it looks Italian. Innocenti Sprite, I think. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://www.mnautox.com From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sat Jan 14 18:01:38 2012 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2012 19:01:38 -0600 Subject: [TR] Shade tree Timing In-Reply-To: References: <94163CA8E0084C9AB32B01795BADFD5E@bboffice><6660C46BB8B541D197CADB9507E19BDF@DaveLaptop> Message-ID: that is very, very nice. but what's really funny is the story that follows about how he started out to change his antifreeze and ended painting his engine bay, everything in it, and the inside of the hood! > http://tr4triumph.blogspot.com/search?updated-min=2011-01-01T00%3A00%3A00Z&u > pdated-max=2012-01-01T00%3A00%3A00Z&max-results=6 From dconnitt at fuse.net Sat Jan 14 22:34:04 2012 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2012 00:34:04 -0500 Subject: [TR] Shade tree Timing In-Reply-To: References: <94163CA8E0084C9AB32B01795BADFD5E@bboffice><6660C46BB8B541D197CADB9507E19BDF@DaveLaptop> Message-ID: <1AA7987BCD7B4AA698D4BE4B630CA4CA@DaveLaptop> Ah Yes.. been there done that. Dave Connitt ----- Original Message ----- From: "oliver" To: Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2012 8:01 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Shade tree Timing > that is very, very nice. > > but what's really funny is the story that follows about how he started out > to change his antifreeze and ended painting his engine bay, everything in > it, and the inside of the hood! > > >> http://tr4triumph.blogspot.com/search?updated-min=2011-01-01T00%3A00%3A00Z&u >> pdated-max=2012-01-01T00%3A00%3A00Z&max-results=6 > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dconnitt at fuse.net From tom628 at verizon.net Sat Jan 14 22:47:36 2012 From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note) Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2012 00:47:36 -0500 Subject: [TR] Shade tree Timing References: <94163CA8E0084C9AB32B01795BADFD5E@bboffice> Message-ID: Bill: You're not referring to the 4 deg. AFTER tdc for the later TR6 distributors, are you ? Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2012 4:19 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Shade tree Timing > Not having marked my pulley with a degree wheel when I had it apart a few > years back, I am trying to guestimate what 4 degrees BTDC looks like in > terms of inches/millimeters. > > I am kind of thinking that if the TDC mark flashes about 1/4-3/8 before > the > pointer that I am pretty close. Has anyone ever put a ruler to this > before? > > Best, > Bill > > Bill Beecher > '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" > www.triumphowners.com/1566 > "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of > course, some times it is difficult to make it go" > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tom628 at verizon.net From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jan 15 00:38:06 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 14 Jan 2012 23:38:06 -0800 Subject: [TR] [stag] Re: Inquiring minds In-Reply-To: <4F123E96.5040405@snet.net> References: <9C09EE59B47947629C798E7EC7B4BB42@Spike><018801ccd2e8$c1d79b00$0201a8c0@randall> <4F120E33.2030302@gmail.com> <01db01ccd32c$79cc0fa0$0201a8c0@randall> <4F123E96.5040405@snet.net> Message-ID: <022901ccd358$9f442d90$0201a8c0@randall> > This cover has 2 switches at the back, > 1 on each > side. Can this cover be used for overdrive, or would I need to tap > another hole for an additional switch? The overdrive switch needs to sense the 3/4 shift rail, which is the one in the middle. So the side switches cannot be used for overdrive. In addition, if you are going to drill & tap at the back, first be sure the shaft has the appropriate notch in it. Not all of them did. The hole needs to be accurately located relative to the notch. > Are the 2 switches > for seat belt > and reverse? Most likely. -- Randall From Chip19474 at aol.com Sun Jan 15 05:57:58 2012 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2012 07:57:58 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Condensor/capacitor question Message-ID: <47128.cb060b3.3c442756@aol.com> Tim, I never had the problem you're experiencing with any of my personal TR's but I did have it with my 1966 Chevy Corvair back in the 1970's.....and it was the condenser! On our way home from work after about 30 minutes of driving, the engine sputtered and faded to a stop. I pulled over, gave it a quick glance, pondered what to do then tried to start it. It started and ran for a few more miles before stopping again. This time a State Police Officer stopped to offer assistance. After a brief chat, he suggested a bad condenser. I had an old one in the trunk so I did a quick swap and presto - no problem. Summary - they do go bad, even new condensers have been known to fail prematurely, they are cheap to replace, always keep one in the car as a spare:) Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U In a message dated 1/14/2012 6:05:54 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, KingsCreekTrees at aol.com writes: Hi everyone; My TR3A demonstrates a fault that could be as simple as a failing condensor. Basically, it loses power dramatically after about half an hour of driving, then eventually fades to stalling. If I leave it just a few minutes, the car will start and run perfectly for a couple of miles, then we start the same cycle again. It could be many other things, I know, such as dirt in the fuel tank, bad pump, trouble with SU's, a bad coil, etc., etc. However, want I would like to do is make sure I have the problem cured while it's in the workshop and before it's time to take it out of winter storage and start driving it. Because of the nature of my work, I won't have time to be working on it once Spring comes. I'd rather not replace the condensor and coil, rebuild the carbs, take out the tank and get it cleaned/lined, etc. etc., if I don't need to. I'd like to start by renewing the condensor, then somehow testing the removed one to see if that cured it. There's over a foot of snow on the ground now and much more will be on it's way before Spring, so I'm not driving it to test it! Thoughts? Tim TS22930LO Ontario, Canada ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/chip19474 at aol.com From tr6parts at charter.net Sun Jan 15 06:07:45 2012 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore) Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2012 08:07:45 -0500 Subject: [TR] Condensor/capacitor question References: <47128.cb060b3.3c442756@aol.com> Message-ID: <76371AE3CCD64D26A1D16C9F885A32CF@Alan> I've also had a bad coil act in the same way. Al Salvatore ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2012 7:57 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Condensor/capacitor question > Tim, > > I never had the problem you're experiencing with any of my personal TR's > but I did have it with my 1966 Chevy Corvair back in the 1970's.....and > it > was the condenser! > > On our way home from work after about 30 minutes of driving, the engine > sputtered and faded to a stop. I pulled over, gave it a quick glance, > pondered what to do then tried to start it. It started and ran for a few > more > miles before stopping again. This time a State Police Officer stopped to > offer assistance. After a brief chat, he suggested a bad condenser. I > had an > old one in the trunk so I did a quick swap and presto - no problem. > > Summary - they do go bad, even new condensers have been known to fail > prematurely, they are cheap to replace, always keep one in the car as a > spare:) > > Chip Krout > Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. > Skippack, PA > 1976 TR6 CF57822U > > > In a message dated 1/14/2012 6:05:54 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, > KingsCreekTrees at aol.com writes: > > Hi everyone; > > My TR3A demonstrates a fault that could be as simple as a failing > condensor. Basically, it loses power dramatically after about half an > hour > of > driving, then eventually fades to stalling. If I leave it just a few > minutes, > the car will start and run perfectly for a couple of miles, then we start > the > same cycle again. It could be many other things, I know, such as dirt in > the fuel tank, bad pump, trouble with SU's, a bad coil, etc., etc. > > However, want I would like to do is make sure I have the problem cured > while it's in the workshop and before it's time to take it out of winter > storage and start driving it. Because of the nature of my work, I won't > have > time to be working on it once Spring comes. > > I'd rather not replace the condensor and coil, rebuild the carbs, take > out > > the tank and get it cleaned/lined, etc. etc., if I don't need to. I'd > like > to start by renewing the condensor, then somehow testing the removed one > to > see if that cured it. There's over a foot of snow on the ground now and > much more will be on it's way before Spring, so I'm not driving it to > test it! > > Thoughts? > > Tim TS22930LO Ontario, Canada > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/chip19474 at aol.com > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr6parts at charter.net From tr3a.60 at gmail.com Sun Jan 15 06:08:54 2012 From: tr3a.60 at gmail.com (John Wise) Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2012 08:08:54 -0500 Subject: [TR] Race Through Paris In-Reply-To: <757066258.723739.1326597089100.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <757066258.723739.1326597089100.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <5C480559-CECB-4E82-8847-5CC8A6A41DEE@gmail.com> He did make "A Man & a Woman" and this is not from it. I have a DVD of both. "A Man & a Woman" is a special movie for my wife & I as we saw it when we were dating back in college. Se we atch it every so often. John John On 14 Jan, 2012, at 10:11 PM, pethier at comcast.net wrote: > ----- Original Message ----- >> From: wbeech at flash.net > > >> Of course, in the end he get the girl. Maybe this should be a clip >> from the >> old French movie "A Man and a Woman" > > Bill, I believe he made that movie, and the faster-paced "A Man and a Woman Twenty Years Later". > > > > Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA > 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue > 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch > 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl > 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red > pethier [at] comcast [dot] net > http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier > http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk > http://www.mnautox.com > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3a.60 at gmail.com John A. Wise Ormond Beach, FL 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From wbeech at flash.net Sun Jan 15 07:38:55 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2012 08:38:55 -0600 Subject: [TR] Shade tree Timing In-Reply-To: References: <94163CA8E0084C9AB32B01795BADFD5E@bboffice> Message-ID: <07E82CF5713541CC84F29D172A5FE9EF@bboffice> This is a TR3A, 4 degrees BTDC. Bill -----Original Message----- From: Tom Note [mailto:tom628 at verizon.net] Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2012 11:48 PM To: wbeech at flash.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Shade tree Timing Bill: You're not referring to the 4 deg. AFTER tdc for the later TR6 distributors, are you ? Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2012 4:19 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Shade tree Timing > Not having marked my pulley with a degree wheel when I had it apart a few > years back, I am trying to guestimate what 4 degrees BTDC looks like in > terms of inches/millimeters. > > I am kind of thinking that if the TDC mark flashes about 1/4-3/8 before > the > pointer that I am pretty close. Has anyone ever put a ruler to this > before? > > Best, > Bill > > Bill Beecher > '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" > www.triumphowners.com/1566 > "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of > course, some times it is difficult to make it go" > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tom628 at verizon.net From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sun Jan 15 11:19:20 2012 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2012 13:19:20 -0500 Subject: [TR] Inquiring minds - reverse-o/d selector switches Message-ID: I guess I'll stick with my jerry-rigged reverse switch that works off the tail end of the reverse rail. http://i1001.photobucket.com/albums/af136/cfmtr3a/Information%20Items/RevSwi tch-1.jpg Don't see the need to obtain a three boss cover and since the pre-drilled don't seem to be readily available go to the expense of drilling three switch holes plus the filler hole. BTW- I was somewhat surprised by the anemic light of the standard bulb. I ordered one of the Litezupp 1156 90d +ground LED replacements and ... Well, you see the difference: http://i1001.photobucket.com/albums/af136/cfmtr3a/Information%20Items/LiteZu ppBeforeAfter.jpg (NFI). You'll note that I did end up turning the lamp 'upright' so that it would not drag on entering/leaving my driveway. This has been very educational and thanks to all who have added to the discussion. Carl 1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ Still being restored - but 2012 looks like the year.. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2012 9:46 PM To: cfmtr3a at verizon.net; 'TR List ' Subject: Re: [TR] Inquiring minds > Could it be that one side is the seatbelt interlock and the other > (driver's) side is reverse? Yes, exactly. > Is this where the switch would be for a late TR3 No. TR3 always used the raised bosses (which were even pre-drilled and tapped on early cars). The shift rails don't even have the notches for the rear locations to work. (And of course it takes two switches for a TR3 overdrive, since it also works in 2nd gear.) I'm not sure why they switched later on, but I'm guessing it had to do with limited clearance over the front of the gearbox. -- Randall ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sun Jan 15 12:46:35 2012 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2012 14:46:35 -0500 Subject: [TR] Inquiring minds - reverse-o/d selector switches In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <001501ccd3be$64a93700$2dfba500$@net> Sorry - photobucket makes the link so long. You will need to cut/paste to get the whole thing on one line. I am in the process of getting a website for storing images like this. The Verizon mysite is limited to 10MB (which is hardly any when you talk images) I find the easiest way is to click on reply so that you get an editable doc. Delete the space/line break at the end of the first line of the link which will make the link all one line. Then add a space after jpg and it will become active. Carl 1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ getting closer. 2012 is the year! -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl TR Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2012 1:19 PM To: 'TR List ' Subject: Re: [TR] Inquiring minds - reverse-o/d selector switches http://i1001.photobucket.com/albums/af136/cfmtr3a/Information%20Items/RevSwi tch-1.jpg http://i1001.photobucket.com/albums/af136/cfmtr3a/Information%20Items/LiteZu ppBeforeAfter.jpg From blambert at socal.rr.com Sun Jan 15 13:23:02 2012 From: blambert at socal.rr.com (D&B Lambert) Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2012 12:23:02 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3A Front Shock Choices Message-ID: <133A84942C2B4EF787601A503F99593C@Lambert1> All, Are there any "mid-range" front shock choices for the TR3(A)? I see the big three sell stock-type shocks for about $30 or so, and also sell Koni's for about 200 bucks each, but I can't seem to find anything in between. Is there anything in the middle as far as price and quality? I'm talking about normal road use, going as fast as is safe through the twisty parts, and an occasional autocross (Triumphest or VTR). I've had the stock type (made in India, I think) on the car for about 12 years and about 45,000 miles and am thinking that it may be time to change them. No real complaints front suspension-wise, just thinking... Thanks, Dennis From timipurdy at citlink.net Sun Jan 15 15:22:10 2012 From: timipurdy at citlink.net (Tim Purdy) Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2012 14:22:10 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR4 Question Message-ID: <67FCF742-9FD3-48FD-8015-624FA8595892@citlink.net> It has been a long time since I have had to post a problem so guess I have been very fortunate. Here is the situation. I will do my best to be clear, concise, but provide details as well. I am having a major starting problem. One of the few things I never replaced was the starter solenoid. (By the way new battery installed in October) Called up Moss Motors and purchased a new one. Installed, turned right over. Two days later, first thing in the morning, clicks, nothing., actually just like it was before I replaced the solenoid. Several more attempts, boom, off and running. Run errands, go here, and there, not a problem for the rest of the day. Even attend my college board meeting, that went on for five hours, and when I left at night it was 20 degrees, but it starts. Next morning, does not want turn over. Several more clicks, and blast off, yet each subsequent day its gets harder and harder to start. I did put a new starter motor in 2005, along with ignition switch. Any ideas, as I am clueless. Tim From auprichard at uprichard.net Sun Jan 15 15:29:20 2012 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2012 17:29:20 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 Question In-Reply-To: <67FCF742-9FD3-48FD-8015-624FA8595892@citlink.net> References: <67FCF742-9FD3-48FD-8015-624FA8595892@citlink.net> Message-ID: <30E11F9D02F44E0A96EFF4383DEE9D13@DCH6RFC1> Brushes on the starter. Same exact thing happened to me - only it improved for a while after I replaced the solenoid, which made the diagnosis more difficult. And my starter was only 4 years old. Andrew Uprichard On my way to pick up a new toy - 1957 TR3 small mouth. Driving 1100 miles tomorrow............. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tim Purdy Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2012 5:22 PM To: TR List Subject: [TR] TR4 Question It has been a long time since I have had to post a problem so guess I have been very fortunate. Here is the situation. I will do my best to be clear, concise, but provide details as well. I am having a major starting problem. One of the few things I never replaced was the starter solenoid. (By the way new battery installed in October) Called up Moss Motors and purchased a new one. Installed, turned right over. Two days later, first thing in the morning, clicks, nothing., actually just like it was before I replaced the solenoid. Several more attempts, boom, off and running. Run errands, go here, and there, not a problem for the rest of the day. Even attend my college board meeting, that went on for five hours, and when I left at night it was 20 degrees, but it starts. Next morning, does not want turn over. Several more clicks, and blast off, yet each subsequent day its gets harder and harder to start. I did put a new starter motor in 2005, along with ignition switch. Any ideas, as I am clueless. Tim ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From wbeech at flash.net Sun Jan 15 15:36:24 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2012 16:36:24 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR4 Question In-Reply-To: <67FCF742-9FD3-48FD-8015-624FA8595892@citlink.net> References: <67FCF742-9FD3-48FD-8015-624FA8595892@citlink.net> Message-ID: <5095F7198E144B78B259E057C213138F@bboffice> Tim, Really sounds like a connection issue. Battery cables, solenoid cables and the cable at the starter(just had this problem with a friend's MG). Go from end-to-end and make sure everything in clean and tight. Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tim Purdy Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2012 4:22 PM To: TR List Subject: [TR] TR4 Question It has been a long time since I have had to post a problem so guess I have been very fortunate. Here is the situation. I will do my best to be clear, concise, but provide details as well. I am having a major starting problem. One of the few things I never replaced was the starter solenoid. (By the way new battery installed in October) Called up Moss Motors and purchased a new one. Installed, turned right over. Two days later, first thing in the morning, clicks, nothing., actually just like it was before I replaced the solenoid. Several more attempts, boom, off and running. Run errands, go here, and there, not a problem for the rest of the day. Even attend my college board meeting, that went on for five hours, and when I left at night it was 20 degrees, but it starts. Next morning, does not want turn over. Several more clicks, and blast off, yet each subsequent day its gets harder and harder to start. I did put a new starter motor in 2005, along with ignition switch. Any ideas, as I am clueless. Tim ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sun Jan 15 15:46:35 2012 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2012 17:46:35 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 Question In-Reply-To: <67FCF742-9FD3-48FD-8015-624FA8595892@citlink.net> References: <67FCF742-9FD3-48FD-8015-624FA8595892@citlink.net> Message-ID: <4F13574B.1070401@adelphia.net> Tim, I would start out with the 2 primary ground connections, the one from the battery to the firewall and the 2nd from the left front of the engine to the frame. Insure connections are clean and tight. You should have metal on metal. When I did my 4 a few years back, I soldered a copper washer to the firewall where the ground attaches. I always insure it as well as the cable end are bright and shinny. The ground on the engine and frame should be metal to metal, no grease, paint etc. Then I would look at the battery connection to the solenoid. Same there, clean and tight. Third the Lucar connections on the solenoid itself. They may be oxidized from higher than normal current flows. Also they should be very tight. You might have to squeeze them a bit. The wire that runs the solenoid (white / red I believe) may be the problem. Then inspect the cable from the solenoid to the starter. Same procedure, clean and tight. The only thing left is the starter ground itself. If all else fails, remove the starter and clean with a wire brush down to the metal the area where the starter attaches to the engine block and the starter itself. Right down to bare metal. Good luck. Bob On 01/15/2012 05:22 PM, Tim Purdy wrote: > It has been a long time since I have had to post a problem so guess I have > been very fortunate. > Here is the situation. I will do my best to be clear, concise, but > provide details as well. I am having a major starting problem. One of the few > things I never replaced was the starter solenoid. (By the way new battery > installed in October) Called up Moss Motors and purchased a new one. > Installed, turned right over. Two days later, first thing in the morning, > clicks, nothing., actually just like it was before I replaced the solenoid. > Several more attempts, boom, off and running. Run errands, go here, and > there, not a problem for the rest of the day. Even attend my college board > meeting, that went on for five hours, and when I left at night it was 20 > degrees, but it starts. Next morning, does not want turn over. Several more > clicks, and blast off, yet each subsequent day its gets harder and harder to > start. I did put a new starter motor in 2005, along with ignition switch. > Any ideas, as I am clueless. > Tim From fishplate at charter.net Sun Jan 15 15:49:29 2012 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff) Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2012 17:49:29 -0500 Subject: [TR] Shade tree Timing In-Reply-To: <6660C46BB8B541D197CADB9507E19BDF@DaveLaptop> References: <94163CA8E0084C9AB32B01795BADFD5E@bboffice> <6660C46BB8B541D197CADB9507E19BDF@DaveLaptop> Message-ID: <4F1357F9.6070104@charter.net> On 1/14/2012 6:17 PM, Dave Connitt wrote: > Bill, > I came across this link awhile back regarding locating TDC on an > assembled engine and then deterimining where to put the timing mark. > > http://tr4triumph.blogspot.com/search?updated-min=2011-01-01T00%3A00%3A00Z&updated-max=2012-01-01T00%3A00%3A00Z&max-results=6 I've got to wonder just how accurate a suction method would actually be. Now, using the same spark plug adapter and some Marvel Mystery oil in a tube suspended above the cylinder, you could simply look for the point where the oil rose highest in the tube. Use MityVac or similar to remove the oil after you've completed your measuring. Of course, It's going to smoke a bit when you put it all back together and crank it... Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sun Jan 15 15:51:48 2012 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2012 17:51:48 -0500 Subject: [TR] New toy In-Reply-To: <30E11F9D02F44E0A96EFF4383DEE9D13@DCH6RFC1> References: <67FCF742-9FD3-48FD-8015-624FA8595892@citlink.net> <30E11F9D02F44E0A96EFF4383DEE9D13@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: <4F135884.3050103@adelphia.net> On 01/15/2012 05:29 PM, Andrew Uprichard wrote: > Andrew Uprichard > On my way to pick up a new toy - 1957 TR3 small mouth. Driving 1100 miles > tomorrow............. Andrew, Good for you. My life with TRs started with a black 57 small mouth. In fact my 58 has the original transmission from that 57. Still works pretty good with only front and real oil seals replaced in all those years. Syncros are tired but if I drive like the old guy I am, they work pretty good. Bob From spitfire at freebacon.net Sun Jan 15 18:45:33 2012 From: spitfire at freebacon.net (Mike Welch) Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2012 18:45:33 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 Question In-Reply-To: <4F13574B.1070401@adelphia.net> References: <67FCF742-9FD3-48FD-8015-624FA8595892@citlink.net> <4F13574B.1070401@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <414F58F53F2C4A879AC9430785E66E19@Spike> Don't forget to check the physical ground cables by feeling for sponginess. My Spit had a similar problem a few years ago. Continuity and resistance where it should be. Hit the started and everything would die until moving the ground cable around. The ground cable was clean on both ends, no corrosion at the terminal ends. A section in the middle was corroded, felt like sand under the insulation. Mike Welch Colorado Springs, CO '69 Triumph Spitfire MkIII x2 '69 Honda SL350 -----Original Message----- From: Bob Labuz Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2012 3:46 PM To: Tim Purdy Cc: TR List Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Question Tim, I would start out with the 2 primary ground connections, the one from the battery to the firewall and the 2nd from the left front of the engine to the frame. Insure connections are clean and tight. You should have metal on metal. When I did my 4 a few years back, I soldered a copper washer to the firewall where the ground attaches. I always insure it as well as the cable end are bright and shinny. The ground on the engine and frame should be metal to metal, no grease, paint etc. Then I would look at the battery connection to the solenoid. Same there, clean and tight. Third the Lucar connections on the solenoid itself. They may be oxidized from higher than normal current flows. Also they should be very tight. You might have to squeeze them a bit. The wire that runs the solenoid (white / red I believe) may be the problem. Then inspect the cable from the solenoid to the starter. Same procedure, clean and tight. The only thing left is the starter ground itself. If all else fails, remove the starter and clean with a wire brush down to the metal the area where the starter attaches to the engine block and the starter itself. Right down to bare metal. Good luck. Bob On 01/15/2012 05:22 PM, Tim Purdy wrote: > It has been a long time since I have had to post a problem so guess I have > been very fortunate. > Here is the situation. I will do my best to be clear, > concise, but > provide details as well. I am having a major starting problem. One of the > few > things I never replaced was the starter solenoid. (By the way new battery > installed in October) Called up Moss Motors and purchased a new one. > Installed, turned right over. Two days later, first thing in the morning, > clicks, nothing., actually just like it was before I replaced the > solenoid. > Several more attempts, boom, off and running. Run errands, go here, and > there, not a problem for the rest of the day. Even attend my college board > meeting, that went on for five hours, and when I left at night it was 20 > degrees, but it starts. Next morning, does not want turn over. Several > more > clicks, and blast off, yet each subsequent day its gets harder and harder > to > start. I did put a new starter motor in 2005, along with ignition switch. > Any ideas, as I am clueless. > Tim From auprichard at uprichard.net Sun Jan 15 18:50:50 2012 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2012 20:50:50 -0500 Subject: [TR] New toy In-Reply-To: <4F135884.3050103@adelphia.net> References: <67FCF742-9FD3-48FD-8015-624FA8595892@citlink.net><30E11F9D02F44E0A96EFF4383DEE9D13@DCH6RFC1> <4F135884.3050103@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <43C80A123E654462A218A46CB73DC6EA@DCH6RFC1> Thanks, Bob - great email. Andrew -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Labuz Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2012 5:52 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] New toy On 01/15/2012 05:29 PM, Andrew Uprichard wrote: > Andrew Uprichard > On my way to pick up a new toy - 1957 TR3 small mouth. Driving 1100 miles > tomorrow............. Andrew, Good for you. My life with TRs started with a black 57 small mouth. In fact my 58 has the original transmission from that 57. Still works pretty good with only front and real oil seals replaced in all those years. Syncros are tired but if I drive like the old guy I am, they work pretty good. Bob ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jan 15 21:06:06 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2012 20:06:06 -0800 Subject: [TR] Shade tree Timing In-Reply-To: <4F1357F9.6070104@charter.net> References: <94163CA8E0084C9AB32B01795BADFD5E@bboffice><6660C46BB8B541D197CADB9507E19BDF@DaveLaptop> <4F1357F9.6070104@charter.net> Message-ID: <033501ccd404$2bcaa400$0201a8c0@randall> > I've got to wonder just how accurate a suction method would > actually be. Me too. The piston stop method is both more accurate and simpler, IMO. Easy to make too, you just break the ceramic out of an old spark plug, run a tap through it, screw in a bolt and cut the bolt head off. -- Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jan 15 21:10:38 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2012 20:10:38 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR4 Question In-Reply-To: <67FCF742-9FD3-48FD-8015-624FA8595892@citlink.net> References: <67FCF742-9FD3-48FD-8015-624FA8595892@citlink.net> Message-ID: <033601ccd404$ce260e60$0201a8c0@randall> My suggestion, next time it happens, put a voltmeter or test lamp directly across the starter, from the big terminal with the heavy wire to the starter housing. If the starter is getting at least 6 volts (the lamp lights reasonably bright), the problem must be inside the starter. My Stag had a very similar problem, which turned out to be burned (bad) segments on the starter commutator. It would work fine unless it just happened to stop with a brush on a bad segment. -- Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jan 15 21:18:36 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2012 20:18:36 -0800 Subject: [TR] Inquiring minds - reverse-o/d selector switches In-Reply-To: <001501ccd3be$64a93700$2dfba500$@net> References: <001501ccd3be$64a93700$2dfba500$@net> Message-ID: <033d01ccd405$ead38f00$0201a8c0@randall> I believe if you 'subscribe', Photobucket will let you make shorter links. Or, there are any number of services that will do it for free. Eg, http://goo.gl/RekOn http://goo.gl/LuBBZ -- Randall From levilevi at comcast.net Mon Jan 16 01:59:52 2012 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2012 01:59:52 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 and TR4A IRS Frames the same? Message-ID: <25AA73BE-1A36-44B1-A437-5681034A2923@comcast.net> Listerati, Apparently the steering rack mounts are different between a TR6 and a TR4A IRS frame. Are the motor mount locations different or the same? I read (on RATCO's website) where the two frames are identical except for the before mentioned steering rack mounts. Is that the only difference? Are there any more differences? Most importantly the motor mounts. What issues might I face if I tried to put a TR6 engine on a TR4A frame? Thanks Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net From levilevi at comcast.net Mon Jan 16 02:04:12 2012 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2012 02:04:12 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 and TR4A IRS Frames the same? Message-ID: <56462DBC-A2DA-485A-BB11-817B557B3162@comcast.net> Listerati, Apparently the steering rack mounts are different between a TR6 and a TR4A IRS frame. Are the motor mount locations different or the same? I read (on RATCO's website) where the two frames are identical except for the before mentioned steering rack mounts. Is that the only difference? Are there any more differences? Most importantly the motor mounts. What issues might I face if I tried to put a TR6 engine on a TR4A frame? Thanks Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk Mon Jan 16 03:48:41 2012 From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2012 10:48:41 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] TR4 Question In-Reply-To: <414F58F53F2C4A879AC9430785E66E19@Spike> References: <67FCF742-9FD3-48FD-8015-624FA8595892@citlink.net> <4F13574B.1070401@adelphia.net> <414F58F53F2C4A879AC9430785E66E19@Spike> Message-ID: <1326710921.73145.YahooMailNeo@web29402.mail.ird.yahoo.com> And check the ground strap between engine and chassis, unless you're happy for the choke cable to perform that role? Jonmac http://standard-triumph-books.co.uk/ >________________________________ > From: Mike Welch >To: Bob Labuz ; Tim Purdy >Cc: TR List >Sent: Monday, 16 January 2012, 1:45 >Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Question > >Don't forget to check the physical ground cables by feeling for sponginess. My Spit had a similar problem a few years ago. Continuity and resistance where it should be. Hit the started and everything would die until moving the ground cable around. The ground cable was clean on both ends, no corrosion at the terminal ends. A section in the middle was corroded, felt like sand under the insulation. > >Mike Welch >Colorado Springs, CO >'69 Triumph Spitfire MkIII x2 >'69 Honda SL350 > >-----Original Message----- From: Bob Labuz >Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2012 3:46 PM >To: Tim Purdy >Cc: TR List >Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Question > >Tim, > >I would start out with the 2 primary ground connections, the one from >the battery to the firewall and the 2nd from the left front of the >engine to the frame. Insure connections are clean and tight. You should >have metal on metal. When I did my 4 a few years back, I soldered a >copper washer to the firewall where the ground attaches. I always insure >it as well as the cable end are bright and shinny. The ground on the >engine and frame should be metal to metal, no grease, paint etc. > >Then I would look at the battery connection to the solenoid. Same there, >clean and tight. Third the Lucar connections on the solenoid itself. >They may be oxidized from higher than normal current flows. Also they >should be very tight. You might have to squeeze them a bit. The wire >that runs the solenoid (white / red I believe) may be the problem. > >Then inspect the cable from the solenoid to the starter. Same procedure, >clean and tight. > >The only thing left is the starter ground itself. If all else fails, >remove the starter and clean with a wire brush down to the metal the >area where the starter attaches to the engine block and the starter >itself. Right down to bare metal. > >Good luck. > >Bob > >On 01/15/2012 05:22 PM, Tim Purdy wrote: >> It has been a long time since I have had to post a problem so guess I have >> been very fortunate. >> Here is the situation. I will do my best to be clear, concise, but >> provide details as well. I am having a major starting problem. One of the few >> things I never replaced was the starter solenoid. (By the way new battery >> installed in October) Called up Moss Motors and purchased a new one. >> Installed, turned right over. Two days later, first thing in the morning, >> clicks, nothing., actually just like it was before I replaced the solenoid. >> Several more attempts, boom, off and running. Run errands, go here, and >> there, not a problem for the rest of the day. Even attend my college board >> meeting, that went on for five hours, and when I left at night it was 20 >> degrees, but it starts. Next morning, does not want turn over. Several more >> clicks, and blast off, yet each subsequent day its gets harder and harder to >> start. I did put a new starter motor in 2005, along with ignition switch. >> Any ideas, as I am clueless. >> Tim > >** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Mon Jan 16 03:54:28 2012 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2012 02:54:28 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] TR4 Question Message-ID: <1326711268.42184.YahooMailNeo@web39404.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hi Tim! After having read this last TRIUMPH Digest, I'd say that you have been given VERY GOOD advice to start with. I'm sure you'll no longer have a problem. Now if you do want to spend some money, then I would suggest installing the thickest battery cables you can purchase. I installed a #0 GA on the ground of the battery. I also purchased a #1GA positive cable for the battery (that was the thickest cable the store had for the length I wanted), but I purchased in about 8" to long on purpose. I also purchased two Cu ends that had the hole in them. I cut the cable to the proper length to go from the battery to the solenoid & installed one of the purchased ends on it. The leftover piece of cable received the other end that I had purchased. This shorter cable (about 8") was then as the ground strap from the engine to the frame. By installing thicker cables, you reduce the resistance for the electricity flow. NOTE: You may be able to get thicker cables if you go to a welding supply store, but then you'll have to spend more for the ends & the contacts many not be as good as the ones that a factory installed. Also, while you're going through the trouble of cleaning the wire ends, then put a little grease (I used that die-electric stuff) on before assembling. The other thing that I did on the ground cable ends that attach to the sheet metal, was to install an external star washer between the cable & the sheet metal. My thinking was to have the 'start' portion dig into the sheet metal for better assurance of a good ground. All of these are just suggestions. -Cosmo Kramer From guy at genfiniti.com Mon Jan 16 07:40:08 2012 From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins) Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2012 08:40:08 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR6 and TR4A IRS Frames the same? In-Reply-To: <25AA73BE-1A36-44B1-A437-5681034A2923@comcast.net> References: <25AA73BE-1A36-44B1-A437-5681034A2923@comcast.net> Message-ID: Bud, I restored my TR4A frame back in 2004. >From what I remember of my research, because the TR6 engine is longer... 1. The engine mounts are more forward 2. Meaning the steering mounts are also 3. The TR6 also has slightly different mounting for the lower, front suspension arms, having two bolt holes instead of just one.. Maybe Ratco developed their chassis with elongated engine mount points with multiple holes to suit the TR4A or TR6? On Jan 16, 2012, at 2:59 AM, Bud Rolofson wrote: > Listerati, > > Apparently the steering rack mounts are different between a TR6 and a TR4A IRS frame. Are the motor mount locations different or the same? > > I read (on RATCO's website) where the two frames are identical except for the before mentioned steering rack mounts. Is that the only difference? > > Are there any more differences? Most importantly the motor mounts. What issues might I face if I tried to put a TR6 engine on a TR4A frame? > > Thanks > Bud Rolofson > > 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) > 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) > 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) > 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) > Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) > levilevi at comcast.net > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/guy at genfiniti.com Cheers, Guy D. Huggins 1965 Triumph TR4A CTC 63569LO Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph From fogbro1 at comcast.net Mon Jan 16 09:38:02 2012 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2012 16:38:02 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR250 front diff seal In-Reply-To: <1839148132.927248.1326726684665.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1307234235.932637.1326731882321.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> List, B Any thoughts on replacing the TR250 diff seal? Not so much the R&R of the seal itself, but of replacing the flange and tightening the nut. Is there a crushable spacer like the later TR6?B Is it a matter of returning the nut to its original position or one of torquing to some value? B Ed Woods B B From david.brister at wanadoo.fr Mon Jan 16 10:05:56 2012 From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister) Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2012 18:05:56 +0100 Subject: [TR] Condensor/capacitor question In-Reply-To: <76371AE3CCD64D26A1D16C9F885A32CF@Alan> References: <47128.cb060b3.3c442756@aol.com> <76371AE3CCD64D26A1D16C9F885A32CF@Alan> Message-ID: <69D6EF558D1D4DD7843CBCB1C74EFC02@dbristerPC> I've had both. Once when I was tuning up an old Morris for a rally, the engine idling suddenly stopped. It turned out to be condensor failure. Took a lot of isolating. Another time I could'nt restart my TR after a coffee break. That time was a bit easier as it was an instant coil failure. replacement. Rotor arms are a very weak item, these days it pays to try and locate Lucas original NOS. David Brister, TR4A CTC 77785 O >I've also had a bad coil act in the same way. Al Salvatore -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 7 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 4480 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Professional version does not have this message From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jan 16 11:00:16 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2012 10:00:16 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR250 front diff seal In-Reply-To: <1307234235.932637.1326731882321.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1839148132.927248.1326726684665.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <1307234235.932637.1326731882321.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <039501ccd478$b436dc40$0201a8c0@randall> > Any thoughts on replacing the TR250 diff seal? Not so much > the R&R of the seal > itself, but of replacing the flange and tightening the nut. Is there a > crushable spacer like the later TR6?B Is it a matter of > returning the nut to > its original position or one of torquing to some value? Assuming you mean the input shaft (pinion) seal, and you have an original TR250 differential, then the correct procedure is to torque the nut to 105 (+/- 15) ftlb. Unfortunately, I believe the later gear sets will fit in the earlier housings and I don't know any way to tell if someone has put in a "collapsible spacer" set other than to tear the diff apart. So the "safer" way is to assume it's a collapsible spacer, mark the nut position relative to the shaft before you loosen it, and then return it to the same position. -- Randall From guy at genfiniti.com Mon Jan 16 12:16:50 2012 From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins) Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2012 13:16:50 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR4A - Fuel Level Inaccurate Message-ID: <525457CC-9239-4307-8E3A-66008562FC96@genfiniti.com> Listers, Just a little over 1000 miles on the car. Having lots of fun driving and working on my "punch list". One of the items on this list is that my fuel level is being reported inaccurately. I am currently ruling out the gauge itself, having had it reconditioned by Nisonger as part of the restoration project. I suspect the issue lies with the brand new, Moss-bought sending unit. I know the sending unit is basically an electric potentiometer, so the gauge is reacting to the electric "strength" it gets from the sender, as the potential changes with the float arms movement. My troubleshooting idea is to hook up a multimeter and take measurements at both the sending unit and at the gauge, while forcing the float lever all the way "full" and "empty". I should see identical amounts of voltage from both places. If I don't, then I know something is happening in the wires connecting the two. If the measurements are the same, then I should check the "empty" and "full" voltages against some known standard, to determine if the sending unit is working correctly. If it is with the standard, then my gauge is shot. If its not, then the sending unit is bad. If the gauge is off, it going back to Nisonger to get it right. If its the sending unit, then I guess I'll have to replace it. Does this troubleshooting logic sound correct? Is there something else I should do? Thanks in advance! Cheers, Guy D. Huggins 1965 Triumph TR4A CTC 63569LO Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph From JPayne at ThorCon.net Mon Jan 16 13:34:01 2012 From: JPayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne) Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2012 12:34:01 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR4A - Fuel Level Inaccurate In-Reply-To: <525457CC-9239-4307-8E3A-66008562FC96@genfiniti.com> References: <525457CC-9239-4307-8E3A-66008562FC96@genfiniti.com> Message-ID: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A1919E@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com> Ask Nissonger what resistance range they rebuilt the gauge for, there are two generally accepted ones as far as I know, the numbers escape me, but I believe they are something like 0-90 and 0-230 Ohms, Your gauge needs to match the sender. Also - in my experience, the sending unit is not good "out of the box" you need to approximate / calibrate the sender by bending the float arm to approximate the correct level in the tank. Jonas Payne PBR Cell: (702) 358-5084 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of G.D. Huggins Sent: Monday, January 16, 2012 11:17 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR4A - Fuel Level Inaccurate Listers, Just a little over 1000 miles on the car. Having lots of fun driving and working on my "punch list". One of the items on this list is that my fuel level is being reported inaccurately. I am currently ruling out the gauge itself, having had it reconditioned by Nisonger as part of the restoration project. I suspect the issue lies with the brand new, Moss-bought sending unit. I know the sending unit is basically an electric potentiometer, so the gauge is reacting to the electric "strength" it gets from the sender, as the potential changes with the float arms movement. My troubleshooting idea is to hook up a multimeter and take measurements at both the sending unit and at the gauge, while forcing the float lever all the way "full" and "empty". I should see identical amounts of voltage from both places. If I don't, then I know something is happening in the wires connecting the two. If the measurements are the same, then I should check the "empty" and "full" voltages against some known standard, to determine if the sending unit is working correctly. If it is with the standard, then my gauge is shot. If its not, then the sending unit is bad. If the gauge is off, it going back to Nisonger to get it right. If its the sending unit, then I guess I'll have to replace it. Does this troubleshooting logic sound correct? Is there something else I should do? Thanks in advance! Cheers, Guy D. Huggins 1965 Triumph TR4A CTC 63569LO Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jpayne at thorcon.net From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Mon Jan 16 14:30:12 2012 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2012 13:30:12 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] TR4A - Fuel Level Inaccurate In-Reply-To: <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A1919E@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com> References: <525457CC-9239-4307-8E3A-66008562FC96@genfiniti.com> <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A1919E@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com> Message-ID: <1326749412.36245.YahooMailNeo@web120201.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> does the TR4 have a voltage regulator? From: Jonas Payne To: G.D. Huggins ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, January 16, 2012 12:34 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A - Fuel Level Inaccurate Ask Nissonger what resistance range they rebuilt the gauge for, there are two generally accepted ones as far as I know, the numbers escape me, but I believe they are something like 0-90 and 0-230 Ohms, Your gauge needs to match the sender. Also - in my experience, the sending unit is not good "out of the box" you need to approximate / calibrate the sender by bending the float arm to approximate the correct level in the tank. Jonas Payne PBR Cell: (702) 358-5084 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of G.D. Huggins Sent: Monday, January 16, 2012 11:17 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR4A - Fuel Level Inaccurate Listers, Just a little over 1000 miles on the car. Having lots of fun driving and working on my "punch list". One of the items on this list is that my fuel level is being reported inaccurately. I am currently ruling out the gauge itself, having had it reconditioned by Nisonger as part of the restoration project. I suspect the issue lies with the brand new, Moss-bought sending unit. I know the sending unit is basically an electric potentiometer, so the gauge is reacting to the electric "strength" it gets from the sender, as the potential changes with the float arms movement. My troubleshooting idea is to hook up a multimeter and take measurements at both the sending unit and at the gauge, while forcing the float lever all the way "full" and "empty". I should see identical amounts of voltage from both places. If I don't, then I know something is happening in the wires connecting the two. If the measurements are the same, then I should check the "empty" and "full" voltages against some known standard, to determine if the sending unit is working correctly. If it is with the standard, then my gauge is shot. If its not, then the sending unit is bad. If the gauge is off, it going back to Nisonger to get it right. If its the sending unit, then I guess I'll have to replace it. Does this troubleshooting logic sound correct? Is there something else I should do? Thanks in advance! Cheers, Guy D. Huggins 1965 Triumph TR4A CTC 63569LO Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jpayne at thorcon.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com Mon Jan 16 14:59:20 2012 From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2012 16:59:20 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] TR4A vs. TR6 FRame Message-ID: <3422.20aa9891.3c45f7b8@aol.com> Bud, There is one more small difference in the frames, but it will not affect your engine swap. The TR6 frame has two brackets welded to the top of the rear spring tower, and these accept bolts to the body shelf behind the seats. I ordered these for my new RATCO TR4A frame and had to locate and drill two holes in the shelf. Not too accessable, so I removed the rear wheels and drilled upwards using a 1/8" drill in the Dremel tool. Then opened the holes to 3/8" from the top. This extra mounting would seem to eliminate potential cracks in the wheel well, which my body had on each side. I need to weld them up now. I also asked for the (more forward) rack mount position, as it makes the tie rods more nearly straight out from the rack to tie rod ends. George From timipurdy at citlink.net Mon Jan 16 15:13:29 2012 From: timipurdy at citlink.net (Tim Purdy) Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2012 14:13:29 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR4 Question In-Reply-To: <67FCF742-9FD3-48FD-8015-624FA8595892@citlink.net> References: <67FCF742-9FD3-48FD-8015-624FA8595892@citlink.net> Message-ID: <73BCA864-4C07-41FA-A742-D59F24E5039F@citlink.net> First of all, I want to thank everyone for their input. When it comes to electrical I am an idiot. I am fortunate there is a good electrical guy where I am, and who has worked on the TR 4 before, and I am going to leave it up to his expertise. I'll let everyone know what the final problem was. Tim On Jan 15, 2012, at 2:22 PM, Tim Purdy wrote: > It has been a long time since I have had to post a problem so guess I have > been very fortunate. > Here is the situation. I will do my best to be clear, concise, but > provide details as well. I am having a major starting problem. One of the few > things I never replaced was the starter solenoid. (By the way new battery > installed in October) Called up Moss Motors and purchased a new one. > Installed, turned right over. Two days later, first thing in the morning, > clicks, nothing., actually just like it was before I replaced the solenoid. > Several more attempts, boom, off and running. Run errands, go here, and > there, not a problem for the rest of the day. Even attend my college board > meeting, that went on for five hours, and when I left at night it was 20 > degrees, but it starts. Next morning, does not want turn over. Several more > clicks, and blast off, yet each subsequent day its gets harder and harder to > start. I did put a new starter motor in 2005, along with ignition switch. > Any ideas, as I am clueless. > Tim > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/timipurdy at citlink.net From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jan 16 15:50:30 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2012 14:50:30 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR4A - Fuel Level Inaccurate In-Reply-To: <1326749412.36245.YahooMailNeo@web120201.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <525457CC-9239-4307-8E3A-66008562FC96@genfiniti.com><744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A1919E@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com> <1326749412.36245.YahooMailNeo@web120201.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <03e801ccd4a1$3fb60b60$0201a8c0@randall> > does the TR4 have a voltage regulator? It should have. And if it is the original type, Guy will see the voltage jumping around. The "regulator" (aka "stabilizer") only controls the average voltage to the gauges; the actual voltage from it at any instant will be either full battery voltage, or nothing. However, there are aftermarket replacements available that do deliver a constant 10.0 volts. If the problem is that the gauge seems to read about 1/4 tank too high, then I would definitely investigate the voltage stabilizer first. The original type uses an internal heater coil that can burn out or go open, causing it to deliver full battery voltage all the time. -- Randall From djsforza at gmail.com Mon Jan 16 17:05:58 2012 From: djsforza at gmail.com (Don Sforza) Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2012 00:05:58 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR4A - Fuel Level Inaccurate In-Reply-To: <03e801ccd4a1$3fb60b60$0201a8c0@randall> References: <525457CC-9239-4307-8E3A-66008562FC96@genfiniti.com> <744407513350EE4B85B11A33F329226E01A1919E@otnoex3.onthenetoffice.com> <1326749412.36245.YahooMailNeo@web120201.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <03e801ccd4a1$3fb60b60$0201a8c0@randall> Message-ID: Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry -----Original Message----- From: "Randall" Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.netDate: Mon, 16 Jan 2012 14:50:30 To: Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A - Fuel Level Inaccurate > does the TR4 have a voltage regulator? It should have. And if it is the original type, Guy will see the voltage jumping around. The "regulator" (aka "stabilizer") only controls the average voltage to the gauges; the actual voltage from it at any instant will be either full battery voltage, or nothing. However, there are aftermarket replacements available that do deliver a constant 10.0 volts. If the problem is that the gauge seems to read about 1/4 tank too high, then I would definitely investigate the voltage stabilizer first. The original type uses an internal heater coil that can burn out or go open, causing it to deliver full battery voltage all the time. -- Randall ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/djsforza at gmail.com From spamiam at comcast.net Mon Jan 16 19:18:48 2012 From: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2012 21:18:48 -0500 Subject: [TR] Front License mounting and MA service shops Message-ID: <6E7663478F294D59939C3C6BAE8BDA95@I7Quad> Hello All, I just moved to Massachusetts and am in the process of getting my automobile registrations moved to the new state from Pennsylvania. In PA we do not have front license plates, but MA does. What is the best way to mount a front license plate on a TR4A? I'd rather not drill holes in the front bumper if it can be avoided. Photos of the mounting would be helpful as well. I moved to South Hadley in the western part of the state, just north of Springfield. Are there any shops friendly to our classic cars relatively nearby? I have to get a safety inspection done pretty soon too. In PA I had it registered as "Antique" and it did not need annual safety inspection. -Tony From ccgunn1010 at hotmail.com Mon Jan 16 21:24:45 2012 From: ccgunn1010 at hotmail.com (David Gunn) Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2012 20:24:45 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR2 conversion to disc brakes In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi - When I first got my TR2 in the early 1980's, the conversion to disc brakes had already been done. There are a couple of pictures of the front brakes in my Flickr set at: http://www.flickr.com/photos/dgunn/sets/72157602881332130/ Let me know if you'd like any more. David Gunn Chico, CA 1954 TR2 TS3388L Longdoor "coupe" > From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com > Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2012 19:34:52 -0500 > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] TR2 conversion to disc brakes > > Hi All - I've looked through the archives and have not seen much on this > topic. > > Finally time to get moving on my conversion to disc brakes on the TR2. > > I have 2 front suspension assemblies that were ruthlessly cut from a TR3 > and also have a distribution 5 way tee fitting with the the long standoff > and brake switch and all mating fittings. > > I will retain the lockheed master cylineder - but hope to just fit new > pipes with lockheed on one side and girling on the other to adapt. > > Do you have any words of wisdom - i.e did you have to add any brackets or > make any other special provision? > > Also - could use some detail pics of TR3's with disc brakes - especially > where the flex hoses terminate and where the 5 way junction mounts. > > As an update -- Bill Lynn of VTR got me my Build record on the TR2 and the > engine number matches my title number - things are looking up - I'm not > making any modifications until I get the title but preparation continues. > > As an aside - the front suspension assembiles that I got were terribly > rusted and caked with dirt and who knows what else - They were on the earth > in a barn for many years - I've been squirting them with penetrating oil > every day for the last few days. . I gave them a quick sandblast to remove > dirt and gunk and took the impact wrench and hammer to the ball and tie rod > joints. A few hefty blows with the BFH and all the tie/ball joints came > apart neatly. - The bleed screws and hoses came off each caliper (the tr3 > version without external piping) but I broke the bolts that hold the pads > in place. > > All that done - time to see what I had - I spent about 5 mins and blasted > each caliper a bit more - especially around the pistons - Yuck - just a > toothy rusted mess - I filled each with aero-kroil - again 30 year old > gallon can from years ago. and let them sit for while - hopeful that they > were not leaking around the pistons. After a few hours, I went to work - > nothing - clamps did not move them - hammers and chisels - I decided to try > the grease gun approach - I took one of the grease fittings from the > discarded trunnions and took one of the hydraulic hoses and mated them > together with by shortening the fitting and tapping with 5/16 tap similar > to the threads on the trunnion - put it all together and..... it leaked. > Plumber solder and flux and got a good seal. It worked great - I saw one > move and clamped it down until the other moved - then just pumped until > each was out as far as possible - I could see clean chorme on the pistons! > Now to spend a few hours picking the rubber and rust out of the calipers > for the dust seal - that part of the caliper is really quite rusted but > most of the groove is still intact. > > Anyone tried the BPNW pistons - they have some kind of plating that sounds > cool - and do you know if they work on the TR3 calipers? > > Thanks, > > Chris > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ccgunn1010 at hotmail.com From auprichard at uprichard.net Mon Jan 16 22:51:20 2012 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2012 00:51:20 -0500 Subject: [TR] Front License mounting and MA service shops In-Reply-To: <6E7663478F294D59939C3C6BAE8BDA95@I7Quad> References: <6E7663478F294D59939C3C6BAE8BDA95@I7Quad> Message-ID: Poor guy - I just moved out of Massachusetts after 10 years. Lovely state, but those regulations..... Regarding the annual safety inspection, since these cars are grandfathered for emissions, the inspection only requires you demonstrate your lights work, the wipers operate and there are no rust-through holes. Oh, and you pay, of course. The first time I had an inspection, I left the car there. An hour later, I got a call, asking me if I could please retrieve my TR3, as the "emergency brake" was 'permanently stuck in the "on" position'. The poor guy was treating it like a modern brake and trying to release it with the button in. After that, I drove the car in and out of the inspection. Andrew Uprichard Just home after an 1150-mile round trip. New baby (small-mouth TR3)in the barn. The car is 2 months older than me. Looking at that rust makes me feel old........ -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of spamiam at comcast.net Sent: Monday, January 16, 2012 9:19 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Front License mounting and MA service shops Hello All, I just moved to Massachusetts and am in the process of getting my automobile registrations moved to the new state from Pennsylvania. In PA we do not have front license plates, but MA does. What is the best way to mount a front license plate on a TR4A? I'd rather not drill holes in the front bumper if it can be avoided. Photos of the mounting would be helpful as well. I moved to South Hadley in the western part of the state, just north of Springfield. Are there any shops friendly to our classic cars relatively nearby? I have to get a safety inspection done pretty soon too. In PA I had it registered as "Antique" and it did not need annual safety inspection. -Tony ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From john.mcmaster at netspeed.com.au Tue Jan 17 01:10:38 2012 From: john.mcmaster at netspeed.com.au (John Mc ) Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2012 19:10:38 +1100 Subject: [TR] TR6 and TR4A IRS Frames the same? Message-ID: <1ADCBFD460AB4266BEC2EB617B09D030@johnqg3ed0cywf> Bud, You may want to check the transmission mounts as well. ISTR that the (late) TR6 has different chassis mounts for the J type O/D? Al the best, John Mc "Fast is First" '71 TR6 PI '76 Dolomite 1850 '72 2000 Mk I Estate '76 Dolomite Sprint V6 Project From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com Tue Jan 17 09:23:29 2012 From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2012 11:23:29 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Front Plate on a TR4A Message-ID: <33dc1.ec47f2f.3c46fa81@aol.com> Tony, My TR4A has two holes in the front bumper at the correct spacing to accept the standard license plate. Is there more than one front bumper configuration? I'd ask Chris K. George From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk Tue Jan 17 10:13:29 2012 From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2012 17:13:29 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] Front Plate on a TR4A References: <33dc1.ec47f2f.3c46fa81@aol.com> Message-ID: <1326820409.61585.YahooMailNeo@web29405.mail.ird.yahoo.com> Yes, there were several different types from the factory - but they were all market dependent as licence plates vary enormously in size. AFAIK, there was only one version for North America (as in Canada and the USA) and Jonmac http://standard-triumph-books.co.uk >________________________________ > From: "GHaynesTR4 at aol.com" >To: triumphs at autox.team.net >Sent: Tuesday, 17 January 2012, 16:23 >Subject: Re: [TR] Front Plate on a TR4A > >Tony, >My TR4A has two holes in the front bumper at the correct spacing to accept >the standard license plate. Is there more than one front bumper >configuration? I'd ask Chris K. >George > >** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk From triumph76_tr6 at yahoo.com Tue Jan 17 12:02:33 2012 From: triumph76_tr6 at yahoo.com (Triumph TRSix) Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2012 11:02:33 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] For Sale: '76 TR6 Message-ID: <1326826953.27122.YahooMailNeo@web124706.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Hello all. I'm a former list member, and am selling my TR6. Wanting it to go to a good home. Fully restored, award winning for shows and it has also won several TSD (Time-speed-distance) Rallyes. Link to the car's website is: http://triumph76tr6 at weebly.com I am a serious seller, and looking for a serious buyer. If any of you know of someone interested, please pass along the information. Best regards, Eric Conrad (Denver, CO area) From lee at automate-it.com Tue Jan 17 12:45:23 2012 From: lee at automate-it.com (Lee Daniels) Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2012 13:45:23 -0600 Subject: [TR] For Sale: '76 TR6 In-Reply-To: <1326826953.27122.YahooMailNeo@web124706.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1326826953.27122.YahooMailNeo@web124706.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Looks nice, wish I was in the market. Note that the web address has a glitch in the name, it should be: http://triumph76tr6.weebly.com Otherwise it won't play nice with your browser. Lee > Hello all. I'm a former list member, and am selling my TR6. Wanting it to go > to a good home. > > Fully restored, award winning for shows and it has also won > several TSD (Time-speed-distance) Rallyes. > > Link to the car's website is: > http://triumph76tr6 at weebly.com > > I am a serious seller, and looking for a > serious buyer. If any of you know of someone interested, please pass along > the information. > > Best regards, > > Eric Conrad > (Denver, CO area) From triumph76_tr6 at yahoo.com Tue Jan 17 12:51:16 2012 From: triumph76_tr6 at yahoo.com (Triumph TRSix) Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2012 11:51:16 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Fw: For Sale: '76 TR6 In-Reply-To: <1326826953.27122.YahooMailNeo@web124706.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1326826953.27122.YahooMailNeo@web124706.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1326829876.56799.YahooMailNeo@web124705.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> very sorry, all. I put an "@" in the web address. corrected here: http://triumph76tr6.weebly.com Thanks to those that advised me of the error. Best regards, Eric Conrad ----- Forwarded Message ----- From: Triumph TRSix To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2012 12:02 PM Subject: For Sale: '76 TR6 Hello all. I'm a former list member, and am selling my TR6. Wanting it to go to a good home. Fully restored, award winning for shows and it has also won several TSD (Time-speed-distance) Rallyes. Link to the car's website is: http://triumph76tr6 at weebly.com I am a serious seller, and looking for a serious buyer. If any of you know of someone interested, please pass along the information. Best regards, Eric Conrad (Denver, CO area) From anabil007 at comcast.net Tue Jan 17 13:15:32 2012 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh) Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2012 12:15:32 -0800 Subject: [TR] NOS? TR3 tools Message-ID: <418DBDFA-1F95-46AC-95DA-54AE684A8EE7@comcast.net> I have a few items that might be of use to anyone doing a Concours Restoration. These came with Casper, and have never been used. 1. Manual starter handle 2. Original Jack (inside) 3. Original wheel nut wrench 4. Ratchet handle for #2 I have no need for any of them, Casper never was, and never will be a show car. Don't know if they have any value, but if you are interested. Just let me know ... we will work out the details. "Life is too short to drive Boring Cars" Bill Pugh Wallace, CA Casper 1957 TR3 TS16665L anabil007 at comcast.net From levilevi at comcast.net Tue Jan 17 13:31:56 2012 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2012 13:31:56 -0700 Subject: [TR] For Sale: '76 TR6 In-Reply-To: <1326826953.27122.YahooMailNeo@web124706.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1326826953.27122.YahooMailNeo@web124706.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <28ACBE49-8352-4F31-8B88-89D41EB89877@comcast.net> I helped Eric drag (literally drag because the rear brakes were locked up) this car onto a trailer and back to his house. Eric did a quality restoration and this is a really nice 76 TR6. I'm sorry to see him sell it, but someone will get a finished ready-to- drive car. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Jan 17, 2012, at 12:02 PM, Triumph TRSix wrote: > Hello all. I'm a former list member, and am selling my TR6. > Wanting it to go > to a good home. > > Fully restored, award winning for shows and it has also won > several TSD (Time-speed-distance) Rallyes. > > Link to the car's website is: > http://triumph76tr6 at weebly.com > > I am a serious seller, and looking for a > serious buyer. If any of you know of someone interested, please > pass along > the information. > > Best regards, > > Eric Conrad > (Denver, CO area) > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net From triumph76_tr6 at yahoo.com Tue Jan 17 13:36:00 2012 From: triumph76_tr6 at yahoo.com (Triumph TRSix) Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2012 12:36:00 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] For Sale: '76 TR6 In-Reply-To: <28ACBE49-8352-4F31-8B88-89D41EB89877@comcast.net> References: <1326826953.27122.YahooMailNeo@web124706.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <28ACBE49-8352-4F31-8B88-89D41EB89877@comcast.net> Message-ID: <1326832560.80791.YahooMailNeo@web124708.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Thanks, Bud for the nice comments. For those needing a timeline....the locked brake dragging occurred PRIOR to the restoration. haha Comments like these coming from Bud mean a lot!!! Bud's abilities with cars are top notch. Eric Conrad ________________________________ From: Bud Rolofson To: Triumph TRSix Cc: "triumphs at autox.team.net" Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2012 1:31 PM Subject: Re: [TR] For Sale: '76 TR6 I helped Eric drag (literally drag because the rear brakes were locked up) this car onto a trailer and back to his house. Eric did a quality restoration and this is a really nice 76 TR6. I'm sorry to see him sell it, but someone will get a finished ready-to-drive car. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Jan 17, 2012, at 12:02 PM, Triumph TRSix wrote: > Hello all. I'm a former list member, and am selling my TR6. Wanting it to go > to a good home. > > Fully restored, award winning for shows and it has also won > several TSD (Time-speed-distance) Rallyes. > > Link to the car's website is: > http://triumph76tr6 at weebly.com > > I am a serious seller, and looking for a > serious buyer. If any of you know of someone interested, please pass along > the information. > > Best regards, > > Eric Conrad > (Denver, CO area) > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com Tue Jan 17 13:49:07 2012 From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2012 15:49:07 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] TR4 -TR250 Panels Message-ID: <70af.33f318ed.3c4738c3@aol.com> A friend is restoring his TR250 and needs some rear panels which seem to be unobtanium at the moment. They are behind the rear fenders and make up the inside of the trunk. Fenders bolt to them along the top. Moss PN's are: 855-260 and 855-270, respectively. Can anyone help with a set of these, or possibly have a rear tub solid enough to salvage some solid ones? TIA George Haynes From bberger720 at sbcglobal.net Tue Jan 17 14:59:23 2012 From: bberger720 at sbcglobal.net (Berger Bob) Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2012 15:59:23 -0600 Subject: [TR] Off Topic - Keying question. In-Reply-To: <1325696167.78455.YahooMailClassic@web80203.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <1325696167.78455.YahooMailClassic@web80203.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Sorry for the off topic question. Is anyone on the lists a locksmith? I have a question about keying in a building that Im working on and have 2 local locksmiths pointing fingers and need an independent opinion. Can you contact me off list at bberger720 @ sbcglobal.net ? Berger Bob 78 Spitfire St. Louis, MO NASS #627 http://web.me.com/bobberger/Site/Photos/Photos.html On Jan 4, 2012, at 10:56 AM, Jim wrote: > This is a better link... > > http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/Classic-Cars-/29751/i.html?_nkw=triumph&_catref=1&_ > dmpt=UK_Motorcycles&_trksid=p3286.c0.m1538 > > --- On Wed, 1/4/12, wbeech at flash.net wrote: > > > From: wbeech at flash.net > Subject: [TR] eBay UK > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Wednesday, January 4, 2012, 10:18 AM > > > Thought I would browse the TRs for sale in the UK but I cannot seem to get > the right URL for the site. > > Anyone got that? > > Thx, > Bill > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bberger720 at sbcglobal.net From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk Tue Jan 17 16:05:17 2012 From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2012 23:05:17 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] [Spits] Off Topic - Keying question. In-Reply-To: References: <1325696167.78455.YahooMailClassic@web80203.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1326841517.70715.YahooMailNeo@web29406.mail.ird.yahoo.com> I once toyed with the idea prior to my retirement of becoming a 'fast track' locksmith specialising in opening safes with lots of money inside them. Didn't need a key but then I thought the police might get too interested if I placed an internet order for some plastic explosive :) Jonmac http://standard-triumph-books.co.uk >________________________________ > From: Berger Bob >To: triumph list ; nass at yahoogroups.com; Spitfire Group >Sent: Tuesday, 17 January 2012, 21:59 >Subject: [Spits] Off Topic - Keying question. > >Sorry for the off topic question. > >Is anyone on the lists a locksmith? I have a question about keying in a >building that Im working on and have 2 local locksmiths pointing fingers and >need an independent opinion. > >Can you contact me off list at bberger720 @ sbcglobal.net ? > >Berger Bob >78 Spitfire >St. Louis, MO >NASS #627 >http://web.me.com/bobberger/Site/Photos/Photos.html > > > > > >On Jan 4, 2012, at 10:56 AM, Jim wrote: > >> This is a better link... >> >> >http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/Classic-Cars-/29751/i.html?_nkw=triumph&_catref=1&_ >> dmpt=UK_Motorcycles&_trksid=p3286.c0.m1538 >> >> --- On Wed, 1/4/12, wbeech at flash.net wrote: >> >> >> From: wbeech at flash.net >> Subject: [TR] eBay UK >> To: triumphs at autox.team.net >> Date: Wednesday, January 4, 2012, 10:18 AM >> >> >> Thought I would browse the TRs for sale in the UK but I cannot seem to get >> the right URL for the site. >> >> Anyone got that? >> >> Thx, >> Bill >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bberger720 at sbcglobal.net >_______________________________________________ > >Spitfires at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $11.47 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk From auprichard at uprichard.net Tue Jan 17 16:24:50 2012 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2012 18:24:50 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 factory hard top In-Reply-To: References: <1325696167.78455.YahooMailClassic@web80203.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Hello, everybody: The TR3 I bought yesterday came with a factory hardtop as well as a second windscreen / windshield with the appropriate hardware for attaching it. I need a little extra CASH to restore this car, so I will be listing the hard top on eBay in a couple of days. Just wanted to give the list an opportunity to get it first if anyone was interested. Andrew Uprichard From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Tue Jan 17 16:53:17 2012 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2012 16:53:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] NOS? TR3 tools In-Reply-To: <418DBDFA-1F95-46AC-95DA-54AE684A8EE7@comcast.net> References: <418DBDFA-1F95-46AC-95DA-54AE684A8EE7@comcast.net> Message-ID: Even if not a show car -- how will you jack up the car if you get a flat somewhere along the road? I have always thought the factory provided jack to be very 'safe & effective'. Can be hard to find a good jack that's slim enough to get under the frame once the flat tire has lowered it. The handcarnk is a lot of fun too though if you have no hole in the radiator then I suppose having that lying around is asking for trouble. Geo On Tue, Jan 17, 2012 at 1:15 PM, William Pugh wrote: > These came with Casper, and have never been used.... > > 1. Manual starter handle > > 2. Original Jack (inside) > > 3. Original wheel nut wrench > > 4. Ratchet handle for #2 > > I have no need for any of them, Casper never was, and never will be a show > car... From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Tue Jan 17 19:15:29 2012 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (suhringtr36 at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2012 02:15:29 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3 Temp Gauge Repair Message-ID: <2018540988.841439.1326852929983.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Could someone point me in the direction of who can repair a TR3A temp gauge? I know I have heard of at leat one company that does this, but cannot put my finger on the contact information. TIA Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3A From wbeech at flash.net Tue Jan 17 20:10:06 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2012 21:10:06 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 Temp Gauge Repair In-Reply-To: <2018540988.841439.1326852929983.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <2018540988.841439.1326852929983.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <8DA3B4E6A7BC4A64AB15B3675DF0C379@bboffice> I used: West Valley Instruments in Reseda, CA. Call Morris at: (818) 758-9500 Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of suhringtr36 at comcast.net Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2012 8:15 PM To: Triumph Mail List Subject: [TR] TR3 Temp Gauge Repair Could someone point me in the direction of who can repair a TR3A temp gauge? I know I have heard of at leat one company that does this, but cannot put my finger on the contact information. TIA Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3A ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com Tue Jan 17 20:14:06 2012 From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad) Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2012 19:14:06 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] TR3A Temp Gauge Question - can't get it out!!! Message-ID: <1326856446.39983.YahooMailNeo@web120503.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Hello List Friends- I'm working on a TR3A for a fellow and I need to get the temp gauge out. Do you have to extend the capilary tube and rotate the entire assembly to get the bulb unscrewed from the engine? It seems to me the bulb should be independent of the part that screws into the engine so it could be unscrewed, but seal against the bulb. Anyhow....looking for some wisdom from those who have BTDT. My next move is to cut the capilary and send the @#$@#$ thing to Nisonger for a rebuild. TIA Chad in Tulsa From mark at bradakis.com Tue Jan 17 20:24:50 2012 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2012 20:24:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] [Spits] Off Topic - Keying question. In-Reply-To: References: <1325696167.78455.YahooMailClassic@web80203.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4F163B82.3010805@bradakis.com> What's with the totally unrelated message included??? Do you really not know how to send a new message to the lists? mjb. From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Tue Jan 17 20:53:15 2012 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2012 19:53:15 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Front Plate on a TR4A Message-ID: <1326858795.68939.YahooMailNeo@web39401.mail.mud.yahoo.com> To the person who first started this thread! Why doing you want to drill the holes in the front Face bar? I or any other TR4 or TR4A person would be more than willing to give you the locations. -Cosmo Kramer From wbeech at flash.net Tue Jan 17 21:30:51 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2012 22:30:51 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3A Temp Gauge Question - can't get it out!!! In-Reply-To: <1326856446.39983.YahooMailNeo@web120503.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1326856446.39983.YahooMailNeo@web120503.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8B5A0F884F2F474B8690035F184EA59F@bboffice> The fitting that holds the bulb in place is independent, sounds like it is just a little stuck. Maybe some PBB and a gentle nudge? B -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chad Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2012 9:14 PM To: TR List Subject: [TR] TR3A Temp Gauge Question - can't get it out!!! Hello List Friends- I'm working on a TR3A for a fellow and I need to get the temp gauge out. Do you have to extend the capilary tube and rotate the entire assembly to get the bulb unscrewed from the engine? It seems to me the bulb should be independent of the part that screws into the engine so it could be unscrewed, but seal against the bulb. Anyhow....looking for some wisdom from those who have BTDT. My next move is to cut the capilary and send the @#$@#$ thing to Nisonger for a rebuild. TIA Chad in Tulsa ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jan 18 01:37:38 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2012 00:37:38 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3A Temp Gauge Question - can't get it out!!! In-Reply-To: <8B5A0F884F2F474B8690035F184EA59F@bboffice> References: <1326856446.39983.YahooMailNeo@web120503.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <8B5A0F884F2F474B8690035F184EA59F@bboffice> Message-ID: <010c01ccd5bc$6ff24ca0$0201a8c0@randall> > The fitting that holds the bulb in place is independent, > sounds like it is > just a little stuck. Maybe some PBB and a gentle nudge? What he said. The metal part with the hex flats is a nut that should unscrew without rotating the bulb. In fact, usually the hard part is getting the bulb out after the nut has been unscrewed. Next time I'm facing one that is badly stuck, I may try using electrolysis to clean out the corrosion and free up the bulb. http://goo.gl/gIKld But fortunately, so far anyway, a good coating of anti-seize has prevented the problem from reoccurring for me. -- Randall From auprichard at uprichard.net Wed Jan 18 06:41:41 2012 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2012 08:41:41 -0500 Subject: [TR] The red-engined Triumph - an answer! In-Reply-To: <010c01ccd5bc$6ff24ca0$0201a8c0@randall> References: <1326856446.39983.YahooMailNeo@web120503.mail.ne1.yahoo.com><8B5A0F884F2F474B8690035F184EA59F@bboffice> <010c01ccd5bc$6ff24ca0$0201a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <1FDB8B9E7CBA46DFAF9337E63D26D9E1@DCH6RFC1> There was a thread a couple of weeks ago about a red-engined TR3. Brought up all kinds of possibilities. But as they say in Medicine, "common things occur commonly". The engine was repainted red by the previous owner. Andrew Uprichard From spook01 at comcast.net Wed Jan 18 08:00:21 2012 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2012 09:00:21 -0600 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Starters?= Message-ID: <20120118150030.51FD1187920@autox.team.net> Seems that someone once sent me a note about using a Nissan pathfinder reduction starter on TR4's. Apparently, it was very nearly a bolt on, merely requiring the rotation of the starter on the base. Does anyone have info on this? R Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- To: "'TR List'" Subject: [TR] The red-engined Triumph - an answer! From sumton at sbcglobal.net Wed Jan 18 08:23:12 2012 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2012 09:23:12 -0600 Subject: [TR] The red-engined Triumph - an answer! In-Reply-To: <1FDB8B9E7CBA46DFAF9337E63D26D9E1@DCH6RFC1> References: <1326856446.39983.YahooMailNeo@web120503.mail.ne1.yahoo.com><8B5A0F884F2F474B8690035F184EA59F@bboffice><010c01ccd5bc$6ff24ca0$0201a8c0@randall> <1FDB8B9E7CBA46DFAF9337E63D26D9E1@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: <680B539B0B9743C2903F0BB22AAE927E@ranteer.local> I recently picked up a tr4 that had been painted red by the owner. and much of the engine as well. brake fluif works really well if you are patient. -------------------------------------------------- From: "Andrew Uprichard" Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2012 7:41 AM To: "'TR List'" Subject: [TR] The red-engined Triumph - an answer! > There was a thread a couple of weeks ago about a red-engined TR3. Brought > up all kinds of possibilities. But as they say in Medicine, "common > things > occur commonly". The engine was repainted red by the previous owner. From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Jan 18 09:17:32 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2012 11:17:32 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Starters Message-ID: <148ac.2cf44716.3c484a9c@cs.com> In a message dated 1/18/2012 9:18:36 AM Central Standard Time, spook01 at comcast.net writes: > Seems that someone once sent me a note about using a Nissan pathfinder > reduction starter on TR4's. > Apparently, it was very nearly a bolt on, merely requiring the rotation of > the starter on the base. > Does anyone have info on this? > All this homework has been done and you can buy the gear reduction starters from Ted (and others) ready to bolt on. Dave From agraham at execulink.com Wed Jan 18 13:20:18 2012 From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham) Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2012 15:20:18 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 windshield stanchion screws Message-ID: <4F172982.50907@execulink.com> Hello List: Just got some new windshield stanchion screws to replace the missing ones in my '2. Just wondering on the order of the screws, as there is one short and two long on each side. What length of screw goes where? Have been warned about getting this right as the windshield could crack. Thanks in advance for your guidance. Angelo Graham From anncarletta at yahoo.com Wed Jan 18 13:53:23 2012 From: anncarletta at yahoo.com (Ann Carletta) Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2012 12:53:23 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] TR3 Temp Gauge Repair In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1326920003.52205.YahooMailNeo@web113808.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> www.nisonger.com/Nisonger Instruments is a full-service supplier of Smiths Instruments gauges and high performance components and trim items for Shelby Cobras and other ... 225 Hoyt Avenue Mamaroneck, NY 10543-1835 (914) 381-1952 Nisonger did my temp gauge. Of course, I learned the hard way when to turn the car off to avoid it from overheating. It actually ran hot so long that the ether escaped from the gauge. Think about taking off the rims around the other gauges (if marked) and having them cleaned. You can see the difference in the rim on my temp gauge vs. the other 3 gauges. Hadn't thought about it beforehand. Ann ________________________________ Message: 1 Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2012 02:15:29 +0000 (UTC) From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net To: Triumph Mail List Subject: [TR] TR3 Temp Gauge Repair Message-ID: <2018540988.841439.1326852929983.JavaMail.root at sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.co mcast.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 Could someone point me in the direction of who can repair a TR3A temp gauge? I know I have heard of at leat one company that does this, but cannot put my finger on the contact information. TIA Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3A -TR3 Temp Gauge Repair From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Wed Jan 18 13:54:24 2012 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2012 15:54:24 -0500 Subject: [TR] VIN vs Commission number vs Engine number In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Update - This morning, I took my documentation with me to the NC vehicle inspector and they are very professional to work with. We went over my paperwork and he said he'd come over to my house to give the vehicle it's inspection this afternoon. Yikes - if it wasn't put back together it I would likely get a "not roadworthy" title. I went home and feverishly reassembled the front end as I was in the middle of the rebush and disc brake conversion. Things went smoothly and as long as there are not any other hang ups I should have my title soon. Thanks to everyone who replied and especially to Bill Lynn and Tom Householder. All the best, Chris On Tue, Jan 10, 2012 at 7:03 AM, Chris Simo wrote: > I have good news I think. > > I finally got the TR2 to the point where I felt I could drive it by DMV > for it's inspection that NC requires for older cars prior to giving you the > title. Thought this was just a no-brainer. > > So in final preparation, I decided to make an attempt to clean the 5 or 6 > layers of paint and gunk and grime from the Commision number plate that was > totally not legible - and it did not match the registration and expected > Title number. > > I had a suggestion to simply make a new commission plate with the number I > had - but others said absolutely not - NC is not sympathetic at all to > tampering with a Commission plate - big trouble like 20 years trouble > according to one inspector. > > So - I was going to have to go down the lost title route - until another > friend said - just try to find the number anywhere on the car - inside or > out it may lead to a simpler updating of the VIN number - I scraped off > some of the gunk from the engine block and found my number on the engine. > > After some googling it seems that it was common practice in some states in > the 50's and earlier to use the engine number vs body number for title > assignment purposes. I think I'm going to be ok. It would be difficult to > prove without a bunch of title searches but the car has been in the family > since it was purchased - so that helps my blood pressure as well. > > Anyone have any additional advice here in terms of preparation for my trip > to DMV for inspection? > > Thanks Chris From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com Wed Jan 18 14:01:09 2012 From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad) Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2012 13:01:09 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] TR3A Temp Gauge Question - can't get it out!!! In-Reply-To: <8B5A0F884F2F474B8690035F184EA59F@bboffice> References: <1326856446.39983.YahooMailNeo@web120503.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <8B5A0F884F2F474B8690035F184EA59F@bboffice> Message-ID: <1326920469.86433.YahooMailNeo@web120503.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> The fitting turns fine, but the capilary turns too. Aren't they supposed to turn independently? I've been soaking the thing with PB Blaster and Kroil alternately for about a month. I think I'm just going to take the thermostat housing off and unscrew it from the fitting. Chad ________________________________ From: "wbeech at flash.net" To: 'Chad' ; 'TR List' Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2012 10:30 PM Subject: RE: [TR] TR3A Temp Gauge Question - can't get it out!!! The fitting that holds the bulb in place is independent, sounds like it is just a little stuck. Maybe some PBB and a gentle nudge? B -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chad Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2012 9:14 PM To: TR List Subject: [TR] TR3A Temp Gauge Question - can't get it out!!! Hello List Friends- I'm working on a TR3A for a fellow and I need to get the temp gauge out. Do you have to extend the capilary tube and rotate the entire assembly to get the bulb unscrewed from the engine? It seems to me the bulb should be independent of the part that screws into the engine so it could be unscrewed, but seal against the bulb. Anyhow....looking for some wisdom from those who have BTDT. My next move is to cut the capilary and send the @#$@#$ thing to Nisonger for a rebuild. TIA Chad in Tulsa ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jan 18 14:33:11 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2012 13:33:11 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3A Temp Gauge Question - can't get it out!!! In-Reply-To: <1326920469.86433.YahooMailNeo@web120503.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1326856446.39983.YahooMailNeo@web120503.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <8B5A0F884F2F474B8690035F184EA59F@bboffice> <1326920469.86433.YahooMailNeo@web120503.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <013e01ccd628$c7d51c10$577f5430$@rr.com> > I think I'm just going to take the > thermostat > housing off and unscrew it from the fitting. Sounds like a plan. I've never seen the nut stick to the bulb but I guess it could happen. -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jan 18 14:36:33 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2012 13:36:33 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 windshield stanchion screws In-Reply-To: <4F172982.50907@execulink.com> References: <4F172982.50907@execulink.com> Message-ID: <013f01ccd629$4053f8f0$c0fbead0$@rr.com> > Just got some new windshield stanchion screws to replace the missing > ones in my '2. Just wondering on the order of the screws, as there is > one short and two long on each side. What length of screw goes where? The short ones go at the top, where the stanchion is thinner. -- Randall From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Wed Jan 18 14:42:49 2012 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2012 15:42:49 -0600 (CST) Subject: [TR] TR3A Temp Gauge Question - can't get it out!!! Message-ID: <26921810.475764.1326922969875.JavaMail.root@vznit170130> Does the gauge work? By 'turning too' do you mean if you start to turn the nut - the tube turns as well - AND YOU STOP or, it turns more than just a nudge.... if the latter - the tube has probably separated from the bulb and also, probably your gauge doesn't work. On 01/18/12, Chad wrote: The fitting turns fine, but the capilary turns too. Aren't they supposed to turn independently? I've been soaking the thing with PB Blaster and Kroil alternately for about a month. I think I'm just going to take the thermostat housing off and unscrew it from the fitting. Chad ________________________________ From: "wbeech at flash.net" To: 'Chad' ; 'TR List' Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2012 10:30 PM Subject: RE: [TR] TR3A Temp Gauge Question - can't get it out!!! The fitting that holds the bulb in place is independent, sounds like it is just a little stuck. Maybe some PBB and a gentle nudge? B -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chad Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2012 9:14 PM To: TR List Subject: [TR] TR3A Temp Gauge Question - can't get it out!!! Hello List Friends- I'm working on a TR3A for a fellow and I need to get the temp gauge out. Do you have to extend the capilary tube and rotate the entire assembly to get the bulb unscrewed from the engine? It seems to me the bulb should be independent of the part that screws into the engine so it could be unscrewed, but seal against the bulb. Anyhow....looking for some wisdom from those who have BTDT. My next move is to cut the capilary and send the @#$@#$ thing to Nisonger for a rebuild. TIA Chad in Tulsa ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Wed Jan 18 14:44:39 2012 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2012 15:44:39 -0600 (CST) Subject: [TR] TR3A Temp Gauge Question - can't get it out!!! Message-ID: <29919470.476004.1326923079410.JavaMail.root@vznit170130> meant to add - if you take the housing off you can see if the bulb is turning as well. That would mean the tub has broken somewhere in the line. Both cases mean a rebuild is in order. On 01/18/12, Carl TR wrote: Does the gauge work? By 'turning too' do you mean if you start to turn the nut - the tube turns as well - AND YOU STOP or, it turns more than just a nudge.... if the latter - the tube has probably separated from the bulb and also, probably your gauge doesn't work. On 01/18/12, Chad wrote: The fitting turns fine, but the capilary turns too. Aren't they supposed to turn independently? I've been soaking the thing with PB Blaster and Kroil alternately for about a month. I think I'm just going to take the thermostat housing off and unscrew it from the fitting. Chad ________________________________ From: "wbeech at flash.net" To: 'Chad' ; 'TR List' Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2012 10:30 PM Subject: RE: [TR] TR3A Temp Gauge Question - can't get it out!!! The fitting that holds the bulb in place is independent, sounds like it is just a little stuck. Maybe some PBB and a gentle nudge? B -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chad Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2012 9:14 PM To: TR List Subject: [TR] TR3A Temp Gauge Question - can't get it out!!! Hello List Friends- I'm working on a TR3A for a fellow and I need to get the temp gauge out. Do you have to extend the capilary tube and rotate the entire assembly to get the bulb unscrewed from the engine? It seems to me the bulb should be independent of the part that screws into the engine so it could be unscrewed, but seal against the bulb. Anyhow....looking for some wisdom from those who have BTDT. My next move is to cut the capilary and send the @#$@#$ thing to Nisonger for a rebuild. TIA Chad in Tulsa ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net From spook01 at comcast.net Wed Jan 18 14:48:31 2012 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2012 15:48:31 -0600 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?TR3_Temp_Gauge_Repair?= Message-ID: <20120118214839.D3DD8187933@autox.team.net> There are several very good instrument repair outfits. This may be old news, but nissonger turn around time is/was excessive and if a problem develops, their customer service can be problematic. That was my experience over a number of years until I finally decided to use them as a last resort for the shop some time back. They may well have changed personnel and practices since, and I'm sure they are great folks, but.... I've used APT Instruments for years now for a wide variety of British cars. They are very familiar with Smiths instruments and have a rapid return. They also supply cables, etc. Prices were superior to Nissonger, too. No financial connection here, just another avenue for you to explore. Just a quick story...they rebuilt and modified my Tiger tach with modern guts and a custom redline marking. I had a problem with the tach because of my change in ignition systems after receiving my gauge back. APT reworked the tach to work on my new Unilite system at no charge. You guys might like to give them a shot. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Ann Carletta" To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" Subject: [TR] TR3 Temp Gauge Repair Date: Wed, Jan 18, 2012 2:53 pm www.nisonger.com/Nisonger Instruments is a full-service supplier of Smiths Instruments gauges and high performance components and trim items for Shelby Cobras and other ... 225 Hoyt Avenue Mamaroneck, NY 10543-1835 (914) 381-1952 Nisonger did my temp gauge. Of course, I learned the hard way when to turn the car off to avoid it from overheating. It actually ran hot so long that the ether escaped from the gauge. Think about taking off the rims around the other gauges (if marked) and having them cleaned. You can see the difference in the rim on my temp gauge vs. the other 3 gauges. Hadn't thought about it beforehand. Ann ________________________________ Message: 1 Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2012 02:15:29 +0000 (UTC) From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net To: Triumph Mail List Subject: [TR] TR3 Temp Gauge Repair Message-ID: <2018540988.841439.1326852929983.JavaMail.root at sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.co mcast.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 Could someone point me in the direction of who can repair a TR3A temp gauge? I know I have heard of at leat one company that does this, but cannot put my finger on the contact information. TIA Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3A -TR3 Temp Gauge Repair ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From anabil007 at comcast.net Wed Jan 18 14:50:09 2012 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh) Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2012 13:50:09 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3 Temp Gauge Repair In-Reply-To: <1326920003.52205.YahooMailNeo@web113808.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <1326920003.52205.YahooMailNeo@web113808.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <16B76ACD-4732-46B8-9CFC-392A5856D82A@comcast.net> Or ... you can buy a new one from these guys ... http://www.gaugeguys.com/Smiths/classic.htm For $135 ... I have no idea what Nisonger charges ... On Jan 18, 2012, at 12:53 PM, Ann Carletta wrote: > www.nisonger.com/Nisonger Instruments is a full-service supplier of Smiths > Instruments gauges and high performance components and trim items for Shelby > Cobras and other ... > > > 225 Hoyt Avenue Mamaroneck, NY 10543-1835 > (914) > 381-1952 > Nisonger did my temp gauge. Of course, I learned the hard way when > to turn the car off to avoid it from overheating. It actually ran hot so long > that the ether escaped from the gauge. Think about taking off the rims around > the other gauges (if marked) and having them cleaned. You can see the > difference in the rim on my temp gauge vs. the other 3 gauges. Hadn't thought > about it beforehand. > > Ann > > > ________________________________ > > Message: 1 > Date: > Wed, 18 Jan 2012 02:15:29 +0000 (UTC) > From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net > To: > Triumph Mail List > Subject: [TR] TR3 Temp Gauge > Repair > Message-ID: > > <2018540988.841439.1326852929983.JavaMail.root at sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.co > mcast.net> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 > > Could someone point > me in the direction of who can repair a TR3A temp gauge? I know I have heard > of at leat one company that does this, but cannot put my finger on the contact > information. TIA > > Scott Suhring > Mechanicsburg, PA > '70 TR6 > '59 TR3A > "Life is too short to drive Boring Cars" Bill Pugh Wallace, CA Casper 1957 TR3 TS16665L anabil007 at comcast.net From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jan 18 14:59:40 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2012 13:59:40 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3A for sale in MA Message-ID: <014c01ccd62c$7ba7a070$72f6e150$@rr.com> Strange things happen when you drive a TR3 every day. This morning, a gentleman approached me in the parking lot and asked if I would like to buy a 1960 TR3. I am not in the market at the moment, but I promised to spread the word around. The car apparently belongs to his father, who has "fully restored" it and several other cars. Dad's health is failing and he needs to reduce the collection. He mentioned it had "electric overdrive". If he mentioned a color or other details, I don't remember it. The good news (maybe) is that he is only asking "around 12k, maybe less"; the bad news is that the car is located on Nantucket Island in Massachusetts. But he assured me that "shipping could be easily arranged". If this sounds like something you (or someone you know) might be interested in, please contact Joe Gallagher at 646-283-1605. -- Randall From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com Wed Jan 18 15:16:41 2012 From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad) Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2012 14:16:41 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] TR3A Temp Gauge Question - can't get it out!!! In-Reply-To: <29919470.476004.1326923079410.JavaMail.root@vznit170130> References: <29919470.476004.1326923079410.JavaMail.root@vznit170130> Message-ID: <1326925001.82892.YahooMailNeo@web120501.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> The whole thing turns....capilary, bulb, and nut. I can't get the bulb to separate from the nut.....stuck tighter than white on rice. :-) The gauge works and I've only turned it about 30 to 40 degrees out and back. I don't think I've done any terminal damage. Chad in Tulsa ________________________________ From: Carl TR To: cfmtr3a at verizon.net; triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com; wbeech at flash.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2012 3:44 PM Subject: Re: Re: Re: [TR] TR3A Temp Gauge Question - can't get it out!!! meant to add - if you take the housing off you can see if the bulb is turning as well. That would mean the tub has broken somewhere in the line. Both cases mean a rebuild is in order. On 01/18/12, Carl TR wrote: Does the gauge work? By 'turning too' do you mean if you start to turn the nut - the tube turns as well - AND YOU STOP or, it turns more than just a nudge.... if the latter - the tube has probably separated from the bulb and also, probably your gauge doesn't work. Subject: RE: [TR] TR3A Temp Gauge Question - can't get it out!!! From thenicholls at verizon.net Wed Jan 18 15:37:38 2012 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2012 16:37:38 -0600 (CST) Subject: [TR] 1972 Triumph TR6 clutch master cylinder update Message-ID: <19021669.899795.1326926259018.JavaMail.root@vms170033> I had written to the list a few months ago. After replacement of the clutch master cylinder on my 1972 Triumph TR6, after being correctly bled, with the bar in the central hole as documented, the gear box would not go into gear. After placing it in the top hole, everything was fine. I drove it that way the rest of the summer. I am aware that this clutch is on its last leg, it was in the car when purchased from the original owner over 6 years ago. I really don't want to drop the cash to replace it until it is dead. Some on the list stated that having the bar located in the top hole was just asking for trouble. So, my fix and question. I have purchased an adjustable push rod from TRF part number HP655. My plan is to remove the existing bar, measure it, and adjust the new one to that length. Then, after installation into the middle hole, use the screw adjustment to increase the throw until the gears shift correctly. Two questions: 1.) Anyone have any comment on this approach? 2.) How does the bar go into the slave cylinder? Does it just pull out and you push the new one in? I have looked at the manual and see no exploded picture of the slave. I have an old slave that was replaced so I can pull of the rubber front and look inside, but I figured the list would be easier. Thanks for your time. Craig H. Nicholls 72 Triumph TR6 Vienna, VA From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Jan 18 15:57:35 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2012 17:57:35 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] TR3A Temp Gauge Question - can't get it out!!! Message-ID: In a message dated 1/18/2012 3:23:21 PM Central Standard Time, triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com writes: > The fitting turns fine, but the capilary turns too. Aren't they supposed > to > turn independently? I've been soaking the thing with PB Blaster and Kroil > alternately for about a month. I think I'm just going to take the > thermostat > housing off and unscrew it from the fitting. > Maybe. Or after a turn or two you can push on the bulb to free it from the nut and they you're home free. Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Jan 18 16:02:13 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2012 18:02:13 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] TR3 Temp Gauge Repair Message-ID: In a message dated 1/18/2012 4:23:07 PM Central Standard Time, spook01 at comcast.net writes: > This may be old news, but nissonger turn around time is/was excessive and > if a problem develops, their customer service can be problematic. > That was my experience over a number of years until I finally decided to > use them as a last resort for the shop some time back. > They may well have changed personnel and practices since, and I'm sure > they are great folks, but.... > They turned my temp gauge around in a couple of days. But then, I have no reason to believe they sent my actual gauge back. They may have had one that went uncollected and kept mine as a core. Of course one can prove anything one wants with anecdotal evidence. As they say, your mileage may vary. Dave From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jan 18 17:13:32 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2012 16:13:32 -0800 Subject: [TR] 1972 Triumph TR6 clutch master cylinder update In-Reply-To: <19021669.899795.1326926259018.JavaMail.root@vms170033> References: <19021669.899795.1326926259018.JavaMail.root@vms170033> Message-ID: <017901ccd63f$2df29ca0$89d7d5e0$@rr.com> > 1.) Anyone have any comment on this approach? My opinion, the only way it will help is by holding the clutch partially released all the time. Not a Good Thing. That is very likely to lead to clutch slippage and very rapid wear. Assuming you have the spring inside the slave (and it's not broken), the spring was already taking up all of the free play at the clutch end. Using the top hole before was changing the length of the lever arm, so that less motion at the slave could be translated to more motion at the throwout bearing. > 2.) How does the bar go into the slave cylinder? Does it just pull > out and you push the new one in? I have looked at the manual and see > no exploded picture of the slave. Yup, should just fall out once it's disconnected from the lever. The old Moss catalogues have a nice exploded diagram. -- Randall From tr3a58 at verizon.net Wed Jan 18 17:34:03 2012 From: tr3a58 at verizon.net (Dean) Date: Wed, 18 Jan 2012 19:34:03 -0500 Subject: [TR] Rocker arm specialists Message-ID: <3t6yq17kam4v019r5qrqgjbd.1326933077302@email.android.com> I have been trying to contact rocker arm specialists and they don't answer and the mail box is full. Any body know what is happening? Their home page also shows a date of Sept. 2011 Dean T. Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone From magnut_dan at hotmail.com Thu Jan 19 10:09:50 2012 From: magnut_dan at hotmail.com (Daniel Shockey) Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2012 17:09:50 +0000 Subject: [TR] Shade tree Timing In-Reply-To: <033501ccd404$2bcaa400$0201a8c0@randall> References: <94163CA8E0084C9AB32B01795BADFD5E@bboffice><6660C46BB8B541D197CADB9507E19BDF@DaveLaptop>, <4F1357F9.6070104@charter.net>, <033501ccd404$2bcaa400$0201a8c0@randall> Message-ID: Has anyone mentioned the method of using a tach to set timing? I have used it with unknown engines or to start up an engine, and also to compare to other methods. You advance the (loose) distributor to get max rpm then retard the distributor (turn back) until you get to 100 rpm less than maximum. This seems to work really well for our motors. The hill climb method is good, too. Gradually advance the timing and test it up a good slope until you get some pinging. A dyno would be even better but the hill is cheaper and more fun. Our older engines were designed to run on very different gasoline, such as the "pool" gas in England. The factory timing specs often reflect that condition so so experimentation may be required. Raising the compression to take advantage of higher octane changes things, too. Cheers, Dan Shockey > From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2012 20:06:06 -0800 > Subject: Re: [TR] Shade tree Timing > > > I've got to wonder just how accurate a suction method would > > actually be. > > Me too. The piston stop method is both more accurate and simpler, IMO. > Easy to make too, you just break the ceramic out of an old spark plug, run a > tap through it, screw in a bolt and cut the bolt head off. > > -- Randall > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/magnut_dan at hotmail.com From Chip19474 at aol.com Thu Jan 19 11:27:12 2012 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2012 13:27:12 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Shade tree Timing Message-ID: <8608.1f5aba75.3c49ba80@aol.com> many years ago when I was just a poor college student with my first car (a '58 TR3A I bought for $400), a very old, cranky, but wise beyond his years foreign car mechanic/shop owner gave me my first lesson on setting timing on my 3A.....he loosened the dist cap nut and did exactly what you described only without ever glancing at the tach. I was so stunned the first time I saw him do this (because I was expecting him to bring out his hand held tach, dwell meter, timing light, etc and charge me one week wages from my part time job working as salesman at a sporting goods shop) that I nearly fell over when he said "no charge sonny, that's how we do it!" And, the 3A ran and ran and never let me down for years to come:) Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U In a message dated 1/19/2012 12:52:21 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, magnut_dan at hotmail.com writes: You advance the (loose) distributor to get max rpm then retard the distributor (turn back) until you get to 100 rpm less than maximum. This seems to work really well for our motors. From rcateb at comcast.net Thu Jan 19 13:35:44 2012 From: rcateb at comcast.net (rcateb at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2012 20:35:44 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Subject: 1972 Triumph TR6 clutch master cylinder update In-Reply-To: <944124878.1012993.1327005204031.JavaMail.root@sz0066a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <142537017.1013148.1327005344118.JavaMail.root@sz0066a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> suspect issues with clutch not disengaging may be result of broken pin on clutch fork. Not sure if the pin in the fork is a issue on 72"s but was the issue on my 75 TR6. May be your clutch/pressure plate are still in good condition for more miles Good luck. From dctr6 at optonline.net Thu Jan 19 13:59:13 2012 From: dctr6 at optonline.net (Dennis Culligan) Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2012 15:59:13 -0500 Subject: [TR] 1972 Triumph TR6 clutch master cylinder update Message-ID: <001101ccd6ed$32d9a7a0$988cf6e0$@net> Craig wrote: >I have purchased an adjustable push rod from TRF part number HP655. My plan is to remove the existing bar, >measure it, and adjust the new one to that length. Then, after installation into the middle hole, use the screw >adjustment to increase the throw until the gears shift correctly. >Two questions: >1.) Anyone have any comment on this approach? Craig - BTDT. I did exactly what you suggested above on my '76 TR6 (the gears had started crunching a little and the throwout bearing was starting to chirp, even in the top hole). Bottom line - the adjustable push rod made no difference whatsoever. As Randall explained, the spring takes up all of the free play at the clutch end so extending the push rod does nothing. I ended up replacing a perfectly good $11 part with a $36.95 part (Moss). Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U From opposumking at verizon.net Thu Jan 19 14:06:38 2012 From: opposumking at verizon.net (opposumking at verizon.net) Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2012 16:06:38 -0500 Subject: [TR] Shade tree Timing Message-ID: Sent from my LG phone Chip19474 at aol.com wrote: >many years ago when I was just a poor college student with my first car (a >'58 TR3A I bought for $400), a very old, cranky, but wise beyond his years > foreign car mechanic/shop owner gave me my first lesson on setting timing >on my 3A.....he loosened the dist cap nut and did exactly what you >described only without ever glancing at the tach. I was so stunned the first time >I saw him do this (because I was expecting him to bring out his hand held >tach, dwell meter, timing light, etc and charge me one week wages from my >part time job working as salesman at a sporting goods shop) that I nearly >fell over when he said "no charge sonny, that's how we do it!" And, the 3A >ran and ran and never let me down for years to come:) > >Chip Krout >Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. >Skippack, PA >1976 TR6 CF57822U > > > >In a message dated 1/19/2012 12:52:21 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, >magnut_dan at hotmail.com writes: > >You advance the (loose) distributor to get max rpm then retard the >distributor (turn back) until you get to 100 rpm less than maximum. This >seems >to work really well for our motors. > >** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/opposumking at verizon.net From rpeglow at optonline.net Thu Jan 19 14:11:30 2012 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2012 16:11:30 -0500 Subject: [TR] 1972 Triumph TR6 clutch master cylinder update, approach In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hello Craig, I found a similar problem after replacing the clutch hydraulics just for reliability reasons not knowing the clutch history on my '71. Before and after I needed to really tiptoe the clutch pedal to get into gear. Sometimes first but mostly reverse. I have read this is a common complaint on the early TR6s? Anyway I installed the adjustable pushrod. I did not document how much - but mine is a bit longer and I made sure I still have some play in the linkage when the clutch is released. I have a few thousand miles on this "kluge". Good luck. Regards, Bob "So, my fix and question. I have purchased an adjustable push rod from TRF part number HP655. My plan is to remove the existing bar, measure it, and adjust the new one to that length. Then, after installation into the middle hole, use the screw adjustment to increase the throw until the gears shift correctly. Two questions: 1.) Anyone have any comment on this approach? Craig H. Nicholls 72 Triumph TR6 Vienna, VA" From guy at genfiniti.com Thu Jan 19 15:42:59 2012 From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins) Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2012 16:42:59 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR4A - First breakdown today Message-ID: <39CC5F06-0C42-434B-9418-E48961FD4B75@genfiniti.com> Listers, Well, it took 1100 miles, but the car experienced its first breakdown while driving, just 1.5 hours ago. I took it to the office, and it ran terrific. Went to head to my second stop, and it would not start. Just the click of the relay.. nothing else. No worries, I roll started the car and drove to my second stop, which happens to be a British Garage.. Same problem happened there. The mechanic did a little troubleshooting and determined I have a short in the starter itself. So, we undid the starter cable at the solenoid, roll-started the car, and I'm on my way home. Car is running awesome.. On the drive I got behind some slow traffic. I turned off the OD switch, put my foot back on the gas, and the car would not accelerate. It reacted to the throttle, but just barely. No matter how much throttle I gave it, it just wouldn't rev. It went from terrific, to crap, instantaneously. If I remember correctly, the ignition warning light was on as well. Quick call to Hagerty Roadside Assistance, and the car is safe at home. My thoughts are that the two issues are related; that my lack of power is somehow electrical, not mechanical. I believe this because it happened so soon after the starter was found to be shorted. I'm thinking the starter short introduced some gremlin in the ignition system, which hit when I turned off the OD. Also, what's some opinion on rebuilding the starter, versus replacing? Does anyone have any experience with the fancy "gear reduction starter"? Thank in advance. Starting to feel like a British car owner now!! Cheers, Guy D. Huggins 1965 Triumph TR4A CTC 63569LO Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph From pethier at comcast.net Thu Jan 19 16:15:59 2012 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2012 23:15:59 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR4A - First breakdown today In-Reply-To: <39CC5F06-0C42-434B-9418-E48961FD4B75@genfiniti.com> Message-ID: <409531327.944718.1327014959362.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> The charging system may have been damaged and your battery is low. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://www.mnautox.com ----- Original Message ----- > From: "G.D. Huggins" > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Thursday, January 19, 2012 4:42:59 PM > Subject: [TR] TR4A - First breakdown today > Listers, > > Well, it took 1100 miles, but the car experienced its first breakdown > while > driving, just 1.5 hours ago. > I took it to the office, and it ran terrific. > Went to head to my second stop, and it would not start. Just the click > of the > relay.. nothing else. > No worries, I roll started the car and drove to my second stop, which > happens > to be a British Garage.. > > Same problem happened there. The mechanic did a little troubleshooting > and > determined I have a short in the starter itself. > So, we undid the starter cable at the solenoid, roll-started the car, > and I'm > on my way home. > Car is running awesome.. > > On the drive I got behind some slow traffic. I turned off the OD > switch, put > my foot back on the gas, and the car would not accelerate. > It reacted to the throttle, but just barely. No matter how much > throttle I > gave it, it just wouldn't rev. > It went from terrific, to crap, instantaneously. > If I remember correctly, the ignition warning light was on as well. > > Quick call to Hagerty Roadside Assistance, and the car is safe at > home. > > My thoughts are that the two issues are related; that my lack of power > is > somehow electrical, not mechanical. > I believe this because it happened so soon after the starter was found > to be > shorted. > > I'm thinking the starter short introduced some gremlin in the ignition > system, > which hit when I turned off the OD. > > Also, what's some opinion on rebuilding the starter, versus replacing? > Does anyone have any experience with the fancy "gear reduction > starter"? > > Thank in advance. Starting to feel like a British car owner now!! > > > > Cheers, > > Guy D. Huggins From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jan 19 16:24:19 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2012 15:24:19 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR4A - First breakdown today In-Reply-To: <39CC5F06-0C42-434B-9418-E48961FD4B75@genfiniti.com> References: <39CC5F06-0C42-434B-9418-E48961FD4B75@genfiniti.com> Message-ID: <001601ccd701$78baf800$6a30e800$@rr.com> > My thoughts are that the two issues are related; that my lack of power > is > somehow electrical, not mechanical. > I believe this because it happened so soon after the starter was found > to be shorted. Well, a shorted starter would place an unusual load on the battery cables, including the ground strap(s). So I would give them a quick visual. Last time I had a shorted starter, the hot cable melted its insulation and smoked so much that I thought the engine was on fire. You might also double-check the battery, as the heavy load will have shortened its life somewhat and may have pushed it over the edge, so to speak. Other than that, while the power problem might well be electrical, I expect it is just coincidence that it happened the same day as the starter problem. > Also, what's some opinion on rebuilding the starter, versus replacing? > Does anyone have any experience with the fancy "gear reduction > starter"? Not the same starter, but I finally got frustrated with rebuilding my early TR3A starter and converted to a gear-drive. That was in 2001, and I still haven't regretted the decision (the same starter is now in my TR3). I also used to run a really big (100 AH) battery to help cover the current draw of the original starter; now I use a much smaller (lighter and less expensive) battery and it works just fine. I used a somewhat different wiring setup than most do for the new starter. The original solenoid is still in place, but it supplies power only to engage the new solenoid on the new starter. That way the old solenoid (which was likely somewhat damaged from the shorted starter) doesn't have to carry full starter current, but I can still use the pushbutton on the back of the original solenoid. And, the dash switch does not have to carry the increased current drawn by the new solenoid (measured at about 12 amps vs about 2 amps for the old solenoid). -- Randall From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Thu Jan 19 16:31:11 2012 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2012 15:31:11 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] TR4A - First breakdown today In-Reply-To: <39CC5F06-0C42-434B-9418-E48961FD4B75@genfiniti.com> References: <39CC5F06-0C42-434B-9418-E48961FD4B75@genfiniti.com> Message-ID: <1327015871.5036.YahooMailNeo@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> not sure about your OD/ignition problem. i contemplated the gear reduction starter. but i don't see any really great advantage. the disadvantage was that i would loose the use of the under-bonnet solenoid. the GRS takes away that feature. Frank From: G.D. Huggins To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, January 19, 2012 2:42 PM Subject: [TR] TR4A - First breakdown today Listers, Well, it took 1100 miles, but the car experienced its first breakdown while driving, just 1.5 hours ago. I took it to the office, and it ran terrific. Went to head to my second stop, and it would not start. Just the click of the relay.. nothing else. No worries, I roll started the car and drove to my second stop, which happens to be a British Garage.. Same problem happened there. The mechanic did a little troubleshooting and determined I have a short in the starter itself. So, we undid the starter cable at the solenoid, roll-started the car, and I'm on my way home. Car is running awesome.. On the drive I got behind some slow traffic. I turned off the OD switch, put my foot back on the gas, and the car would not accelerate. It reacted to the throttle, but just barely. No matter how much throttle I gave it, it just wouldn't rev. It went from terrific, to crap, instantaneously. If I remember correctly, the ignition warning light was on as well. Quick call to Hagerty Roadside Assistance, and the car is safe at home. My thoughts are that the two issues are related; that my lack of power is somehow electrical, not mechanical. I believe this because it happened so soon after the starter was found to be shorted. I'm thinking the starter short introduced some gremlin in the ignition system, which hit when I turned off the OD. Also, what's some opinion on rebuilding the starter, versus replacing? Does anyone have any experience with the fancy "gear reduction starter"? Thank in advance. Starting to feel like a British car owner now!! Cheers, Guy D. Huggins 1965 Triumph TR4A CTC 63569LO Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From thenicholls at verizon.net Thu Jan 19 18:15:52 2012 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2012 19:15:52 -0600 (CST) Subject: [TR] 1972 Triumph TR6 clutch master cylinder update, approach Message-ID: <18003846.1029094.1327022152292.JavaMail.root@vms170033> Two votes said it worked, one said it did not. Did not see any response from Randall, always enjoy his input. Thanks for the replies........Craig On 01/19/12, Bob wrote: Hello Craig, I found a similar problem after replacing the clutch hydraulics just for reliability reasons not knowing the clutch history on my '71. Before and after I needed to really tiptoe the clutch pedal to get into gear. Sometimes first but mostly reverse. I have read this is a common complaint on the early TR6s? Anyway I installed the adjustable pushrod. I did not document how much - but mine is a bit longer and I made sure I still have some play in the linkage when the clutch is released. I have a few thousand miles on this "kluge". Good luck. Regards, Bob "So, my fix and question. I have purchased an adjustable push rod from TRF part number HP655. My plan is to remove the existing bar, measure it, and adjust the new one to that length. Then, after installation into the middle hole, use the screw adjustment to increase the throw until the gears shift correctly. Two questions: 1.) Anyone have any comment on this approach? Craig H. Nicholls 72 Triumph TR6 Vienna, VA" From trdoctor at aol.com Sun Jan 15 09:53:01 2012 From: trdoctor at aol.com (Sam Clark) Date: Sun, 15 Jan 2012 10:53:01 -0600 Subject: [TR] Spring Compressors Message-ID: <2CFE8F58-837C-4035-9788-6A2BEBB6E9DA@aol.com> Good morning all. What kind of spring compressor do y'all use when disassembling Spitfire/GT6 front springs? Thanks to all. From wbeech at flash.net Thu Jan 19 21:27:08 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2012 22:27:08 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3A for sale in New England Message-ID: Does anyone know this car? Have a friend that is interested in it, looks pretty clean. http://www.newenglandclassics.com/cars/NE-1959-20/ Thanks, Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Thu Jan 19 21:47:22 2012 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Thu, 19 Jan 2012 20:47:22 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] TriumphsOnly Message-ID: <1327034842.51681.YahooMailRC@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I see TriumphsOnly's inventory for sale on Ebay again. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Triumph-30-yr-Parts-collection-TR2-TR3-TR4-TR6-TR7-TR8-Stag-GT6-Spit-/160719442979?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item256ba01423 Didn't he start at like $500,000 or something? He is down to $189,000 this time around. Has anyone investigated his holdings? Just wondering. Bill in Tehachapi From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Thu Jan 19 23:11:55 2012 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Fri, 20 Jan 2012 01:11:55 -0500 Subject: [TR] TriumphsOnly In-Reply-To: <1327034842.51681.YahooMailRC@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <1327034842.51681.YahooMailRC@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Reduced price by $6k... or about 2% C 1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ Still being restored - but 2012 looks like the year.. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer Sent: Thursday, January 19, 2012 11:47 PM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] TriumphsOnly I see TriumphsOnly's inventory for sale on Ebay again. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Triumph-30-yr-Parts-collection-TR2-TR3-TR4-TR6-TR7-T R8-Stag-GT6-Spit-/160719442979?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr &hash=item256ba01423 Didn't he start at like $500,000 or something? He is down to $189,000 this time around. Has anyone investigated his holdings? Just wondering. Bill in Tehachapi ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net From yellowtr at adelphia.net Fri Jan 20 06:27:29 2012 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Fri, 20 Jan 2012 08:27:29 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4A - First breakdown today In-Reply-To: <39CC5F06-0C42-434B-9418-E48961FD4B75@genfiniti.com> References: <39CC5F06-0C42-434B-9418-E48961FD4B75@genfiniti.com> Message-ID: <4F196BC1.90501@adelphia.net> Guy, Your last failure sounds like a really dead battery as Randall suggested. Check that out first. Then remove both the starter and generator and bench test them with a good battery. I have been lucky over the years and have had good luck with the stock Lucas starters. But I have heard good things about the new generation starters. They are available just about everywhere, not only the big 3. If all checks out, you may have to check out the control box. I think Randall has a link to a PDF supplied by Lucas for instructions on how to troubleshoot your charging circuit. Rebuilding a starter is not too bad if the commutator is not shorted. If you can get the parts, a local auto electrical shop should be able to rebuild the unit. Generators are available at the big 3. Do you recall what your ammeter was reading at the time? Keep us informed on your progress. Bob On 01/19/2012 05:42 PM, G.D. Huggins wrote: > Listers, > > Well, it took 1100 miles, but the car experienced its first breakdown while > driving, just 1.5 hours ago. > I took it to the office, and it ran terrific. > Went to head to my second stop, and it would not start. Just the click of the > relay.. nothing else. > No worries, I roll started the car and drove to my second stop, which happens > to be a British Garage.. > > Same problem happened there. The mechanic did a little troubleshooting and > determined I have a short in the starter itself. > So, we undid the starter cable at the solenoid, roll-started the car, and I'm > on my way home. > Car is running awesome.. > > On the drive I got behind some slow traffic. I turned off the OD switch, put > my foot back on the gas, and the car would not accelerate. > It reacted to the throttle, but just barely. No matter how much throttle I > gave it, it just wouldn't rev. > It went from terrific, to crap, instantaneously. > If I remember correctly, the ignition warning light was on as well. > > Quick call to Hagerty Roadside Assistance, and the car is safe at home. > > My thoughts are that the two issues are related; that my lack of power is > somehow electrical, not mechanical. > I believe this because it happened so soon after the starter was found to be > shorted. > > I'm thinking the starter short introduced some gremlin in the ignition system, > which hit when I turned off the OD. > > Also, what's some opinion on rebuilding the starter, versus replacing? > Does anyone have any experience with the fancy "gear reduction starter"? > > Thank in advance. Starting to feel like a British car owner now!! > > > > Cheers, > > Guy D. Huggins > 1965 Triumph TR4A > CTC 63569LO From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Fri Jan 20 06:36:12 2012 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Fri, 20 Jan 2012 05:36:12 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Was Shade Tree Timing, now Timing by the Tach Message-ID: <1327066572.95956.YahooMailNeo@web39406.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hi List! OK, I got the part of loosening the distributor. But do you also turn the distributor's advance/retard adjuster all the way to advance first or doesn't it matter? ++++++ In a message by magnut_dan at hotmail.com writes: You advance the (loose) distributor to get max rpm then retard the distributor (turn back) until you get to 100 rpm less than maximum. This seems to work really well for our motors. -Cosmo Kramer From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Jan 20 06:58:25 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 20 Jan 2012 08:58:25 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] 1972 Triumph TR6 clutch master cylinder update, approach Message-ID: <54dd.64cd4b68.3c4acd01@cs.com> In a message dated 1/19/2012 7:44:49 PM Central Standard Time, thenicholls at verizon.net writes: > Two votes said it worked, one said it did not. Did not see any response > from Randall, always enjoy his input. Thanks for the replies........Craig > I saw a "No" vote from him with the caveat of "if the spring in the slave cylinder is there and not broken" (or words to that effect). I will add my "No" vote for the same reason, the spring takes up any slack anyway. BTW I've been running in the top hole for 10+ years with no adverse effects so if it works... Dave From mark at bradakis.com Fri Jan 20 09:24:46 2012 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Fri, 20 Jan 2012 09:24:46 -0700 Subject: [TR] Spring Compressors In-Reply-To: <2CFE8F58-837C-4035-9788-6A2BEBB6E9DA@aol.com> References: <2CFE8F58-837C-4035-9788-6A2BEBB6E9DA@aol.com> Message-ID: <4F19954E.6020005@bradakis.com> Sam Clark wrote: > Good morning all. What kind of spring compressor do y'all use when > disassembling Spitfire/GT6 front springs? > I put an old TR4 wire wheel adapter in my bench vise, flange up. Insert the bottom end of the shock into it. Then I put an old tr4 brake drum over the top of the shock. Using some threaded rod I then slowly tighten the nuts so that the spring is evenly compressed. When the spring is no longer pressing against the top of the shock I undo the top nuts on the shock, then slowly loosen the nuts on the threaded rods. You have to make sure you use rods long enough to allow the spring to fully extend before you remove the nuts on the rods. mjb. From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Fri Jan 20 11:32:09 2012 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Fri, 20 Jan 2012 11:32:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Temp Gauge Repair In-Reply-To: <1326920003.52205.YahooMailNeo@web113808.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <1326920003.52205.YahooMailNeo@web113808.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Of course the truly crafty may attempt to fix the temp gauge themselves: http://www.ply33.com/repair/tempgauge Haven't done this myself (haven't needed to) but I'm just cheap enough to give it a shot someday. Geo From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Fri Jan 20 11:49:30 2012 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Fri, 20 Jan 2012 11:49:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4A - First breakdown today In-Reply-To: <4F196BC1.90501@adelphia.net> References: <39CC5F06-0C42-434B-9418-E48961FD4B75@genfiniti.com> <4F196BC1.90501@adelphia.net> Message-ID: I've had 2 starters short out and both times it was the wrapping on a field coil had worn (from decades of vibration I suppose) until a bit of the windings finally made contact with the case or that piece of iron that holds them in place. On both occasions I removed the field coils and re-wrapped them with friction tape and they have been in service for years since. I rather like the old (huge, heavy) starters -- they're so big I can push the start button with the gearbox in first and I have a hybrid! Geo > I'm thinking the starter short introduced some gremlin in the ignition >> system, >> which hit when I turned off the OD. >> >> Also, what's some opinion on rebuilding the starter, versus replacing? From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Fri Jan 20 11:52:38 2012 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Fri, 20 Jan 2012 11:52:38 -0700 Subject: [TR] Was Shade Tree Timing, now Timing by the Tach In-Reply-To: <1327066572.95956.YahooMailNeo@web39406.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <1327066572.95956.YahooMailNeo@web39406.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I always set the timing with the vernier at the center mark -- makes it easier to keep track once I begin the 'on the road' adjustments. Helpful since once in awhile I have to adjust for a crappy tank of gas and want to be able to get back to where I was w/o a lot of thinking. OTOH -- I know some who like the vernier to be at the middle mark when the engine is at TDC so they know what advance they have set at a glance. Geo On Fri, Jan 20, 2012 at 6:36 AM, Cosmo Kramer wrote: > Hi List! > OK, I got the part of loosening the distributor. > But do you also > turn the distributor's advance/retard adjuster all the way to advance > first or > doesn't it matter? From tedtsimx at bright.net Fri Jan 20 12:14:21 2012 From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher) Date: Fri, 20 Jan 2012 14:14:21 -0500 Subject: [TR] Illdaughter-in-law Message-ID: <4F19BD0D.7080808@bright.net> This may be a duplicate message but the TR list email was returned. If you are seeing this twice, my apologies. Ted Hello list. Sorry to do this in this manner. My youngest son, Brian, whom some of you know, has a very ill wife. Marsha is being transported form Lima, OH to Mayo Clinic in Rochester, MN. She will possibly be there several weeks. Brian asked if we had any contacts in the area. Marsha is due to arrive late Saturday by surface transport. . Brian is flying out to be there when she arrives and help get things going. But, he has to come back next Monday/Tuesday. They have 4 kids at home from age 9 to 2 year old twins so it is not possible for Brian to stay. If anyone in the area could lend a hand, stop for a visit or just contact Brian, it would be greatly appreciated. Brian's email is brians at ptclima.com. His cell is 419549-0653. Thank you all very much. Ted -- Ted Schumacher tedtsimx at bright.net http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com 108 S. Jefferson St. Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877 Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.) Phone: 800.543.6648 (US& Canada) Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jan 20 12:15:46 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 20 Jan 2012 11:15:46 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR4A - First breakdown today In-Reply-To: References: <39CC5F06-0C42-434B-9418-E48961FD4B75@genfiniti.com> <4F196BC1.90501@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <007901ccd7a7$ea528a90$bef79fb0$@rr.com> > I rather like the old (huge, heavy) starters -- they're so big I can > push > the start button with the gearbox in first and I have a hybrid! FWIW, that trick still works with the gear-drive starters. Last summer, when my condenser crapped out in rush hour traffic, I walked the car across 4 lanes of freeway to the shoulder that way. And unlike the Lucas boat anchor, it didn't seem to slow down during the trip. -- Randall From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Fri Jan 20 12:42:34 2012 From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com) Date: Fri, 20 Jan 2012 14:42:34 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Off topic electrical question Message-ID: <11f80.7c2a8d7c.3c4b1daa@aol.com> Hi all; Perhaps someone can settle an argument between my son and I? When charging a car battery, I was always told to disconnect the battery terminals first, then connect the charger. My son, who is 23, NEVER disconnects the battery when connecting a charger to any car. He things the principle of having to disconnects is pointless. I have since found out that his practice seems commonplace among his generation. Anyone got any thoughts? Tim From wbeech at flash.net Fri Jan 20 13:28:00 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Fri, 20 Jan 2012 14:28:00 -0600 Subject: [TR] Off topic electrical question In-Reply-To: <11f80.7c2a8d7c.3c4b1daa@aol.com> References: <11f80.7c2a8d7c.3c4b1daa@aol.com> Message-ID: <4239D214CD184C22B8C417D611E8A071@bboffice> Tim, I am probably closer to your age, I never disconnect the battery terminals unless I am trying to do some isolation testing. But just to charge the battery or hook-up a float charger for the winter I leave the battery fully connected. For safety, you should always connect the leads to the dead battery first. Then plug in the charger or connect to another battery if jumping it off. Lots of combustible gases around a battery that has been run down that could explode. Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Sent: Friday, January 20, 2012 1:43 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Off topic electrical question Hi all; Perhaps someone can settle an argument between my son and I? When charging a car battery, I was always told to disconnect the battery terminals first, then connect the charger. My son, who is 23, NEVER disconnects the battery when connecting a charger to any car. He things the principle of having to disconnects is pointless. I have since found out that his practice seems commonplace among his generation. Anyone got any thoughts? Tim ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From levilevi at comcast.net Fri Jan 20 14:30:52 2012 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Fri, 20 Jan 2012 14:30:52 -0700 Subject: [TR] Off topic electrical question In-Reply-To: <4239D214CD184C22B8C417D611E8A071@bboffice> References: <11f80.7c2a8d7c.3c4b1daa@aol.com> <4239D214CD184C22B8C417D611E8A071@bboffice> Message-ID: <637A4E7C-13DA-4DBB-80AD-49F3A8057765@comcast.net> I'm also in the camp of not disconnecting the battery cables. Some manuals say when jumping/charging to ground to the engine/body and with only the positive connected to the battery and I tend to do that on more modern cars. I once saw a frozen battery explode. Thankfully my Dad didn't get hurt but connecting to the dead battery first seems like it would be safer so you could take cover or be as far away from it as you can be when a charge is applied. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Jan 20, 2012, at 1:28 PM, wrote: > Tim, > I am probably closer to your age, I never disconnect the battery > terminals > unless I am trying to do some isolation testing. But just to charge > the > battery or hook-up a float charger for the winter I leave the > battery fully > connected. > > For safety, you should always connect the leads to the dead battery > first. > Then plug in the charger or connect to another battery if jumping it > off. > Lots of combustible gases around a battery that has been run down > that could > explode. > > Bill > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of > KingsCreekTrees at aol.com > Sent: Friday, January 20, 2012 1:43 PM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] Off topic electrical question > > Hi all; > > Perhaps someone can settle an argument between my son and I? > > When charging a car battery, I was always told to disconnect the > battery > terminals first, then connect the charger. My son, who is 23, NEVER > disconnects the battery when connecting a charger to any car. He > things the > principle of having to disconnects is pointless. I have since found > out that > his practice seems commonplace among his generation. > > Anyone got any thoughts? > > Tim > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jan 20 14:45:09 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 20 Jan 2012 13:45:09 -0800 Subject: [TR] Off topic electrical question In-Reply-To: <11f80.7c2a8d7c.3c4b1daa@aol.com> References: <11f80.7c2a8d7c.3c4b1daa@aol.com> Message-ID: <008f01ccd7bc$cb480520$61d80f60$@rr.com> > When charging a car battery, I was always told to disconnect the > battery > terminals first, then connect the charger. My opinion, there was a period in history where that was a good idea. Now, unless you are working on a car with early solid-state electronics (or an early alternator) and using a poorly regulated battery charger, I don't believe there is any point. Unless perhaps the battery is run nearly flat and you might get the connections reversed. Some old car electronics (eg radios & alternators from the 60s) assumed that their input voltage would never go above 20 volts or so. Some battery chargers (especially the old service station "fast" chargers) put out enough voltage open-circuit to damage them. When you connect them to a battery, it takes the battery a few microseconds to start charging and pull the voltage down. Doesn't hurt the battery or charger, but could possibly damage a low voltage transistor or solid-state diode. But any device built in the past 30-40 years will be resistant to spikes past 100 volts; and modern chargers are much better regulated, so I don't believe it's an issue today. Certainly I've never done it. -- Randall From aljlthomson at charter.net Fri Jan 20 16:19:27 2012 From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson) Date: Fri, 20 Jan 2012 18:19:27 -0500 Subject: [TR] Off topic electrical question In-Reply-To: <11f80.7c2a8d7c.3c4b1daa@aol.com> References: <11f80.7c2a8d7c.3c4b1daa@aol.com> Message-ID: <003501ccd7c9$f689b500$e39d1f00$@charter.net> If your battery charger is of the type that tapers the charge rate as the battery reaches full charge, which most do, I see no problem with charging the battery in place. After all, that's what the generator/alternator does. But, if you have a charger that produces a constant current, despite voltage of the battery, then I would be careful. 16 VDC won't help vehicles with onboard computers, electric clocks and other expensive, voltage sensitive equipment. Plus, it will boil the battery electrolyte. Whenever I use a large size charger on tractor batteries, I usually monitor the voltage and change the charge position from high to low as the battery reaches 14 volts, or so. The only advantage of disconnecting the battery (remember, disconnect the ground first and connect it last) is that it gives you a chance to clean it down and clean the battery compartment. Alex Thomson -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Sent: Friday, January 20, 2012 2:43 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Off topic electrical question Hi all; Perhaps someone can settle an argument between my son and I? When charging a car battery, I was always told to disconnect the battery terminals first, then connect the charger. My son, who is 23, NEVER disconnects the battery when connecting a charger to any car. He things the principle of having to disconnects is pointless. I have since found out that his practice seems commonplace among his generation. Anyone got any thoughts? Tim ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net From jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com Sat Jan 21 03:13:35 2012 From: jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com (John Young) Date: Sat, 21 Jan 2012 02:13:35 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Off topic electrical question In-Reply-To: <11f80.7c2a8d7c.3c4b1daa@aol.com> References: <11f80.7c2a8d7c.3c4b1daa@aol.com> Message-ID: <1327140815.10454.YahooMailNeo@web181003.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> I started "fiddling" with cars about 1946. I never have disconnect the battery to put a charger on it. One time, however, I regretted that method. I had the charger turned up for starting and put too much voltage into the electricals in the car(bad battery). Fried the computer. That thing cost lots more than a new battery. Of course, that wasn't a problem in 1946; no computers! John Young NASS# 528 Indiana '78 Spitfire '66 Spitfire '59 TR3A (being repaired after 37 yrs ownership) From: "KingsCreekTrees at aol.com" To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, January 20, 2012 2:42 PM Subject: [TR] Off topic electrical question Hi all; Perhaps someone can settle an argument between my son and I? When charging a car battery, I was always told to disconnect the battery terminals first, then connect the charger. My son, who is 23, NEVER disconnects the battery when connecting a charger to any car. He things the principle of having to disconnects is pointless. I have since found out that his practice seems commonplace among his generation. Anyone got any thoughts? Tim ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com From Chip19474 at aol.com Sat Jan 21 06:17:36 2012 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 21 Jan 2012 08:17:36 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] TR4A - First breakdown today Message-ID: <239f9.503bd784.3c4c14f0@aol.com> LOL - brought back memories - wow.....Triumph was ahead of its time with "Hybrid Drive"! Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U In a message dated 1/20/2012 2:54:40 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: I can > push > the start button with the gearbox in first and I have a hybrid! From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk Sat Jan 21 07:00:47 2012 From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Sat, 21 Jan 2012 14:00:47 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] Off topic electrical question In-Reply-To: <1327140815.10454.YahooMailNeo@web181003.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <11f80.7c2a8d7c.3c4b1daa@aol.com> <1327140815.10454.YahooMailNeo@web181003.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1327154447.42083.YahooMailNeo@web29401.mail.ird.yahoo.com> If we're talking about modern cars, I'd agree there's probably no need to isolate the battery for re-charging. But with older LBC's with (relatively) low output alternators and with perhaps not the same level of circuit protection when used in conjunction with modern high output chargers, disconnecting the two terminals is hardly inconvenient, is it? For the sake of perhaps an extra minute before and after setting up the charger, fully disconnecting the battery is hardly onerous. Well, it isn't for me - but then I'm probably old-fashioned and I *know* without doubt that a full disconnection will only have power going in to the battery which is what I want. Why run the risk of wrecking costly electrical equipment when a little preparation beforehand will save that inconvenient extra spend in replacing things that get 'blown'? Jonmac http://standard-triumph-books.co.uk/ From triumph76_tr6 at yahoo.com Sat Jan 21 11:08:56 2012 From: triumph76_tr6 at yahoo.com (Triumph TRSix) Date: Sat, 21 Jan 2012 10:08:56 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] '76 TR6 listing headed to eBay Message-ID: <1327169336.15954.YahooMailNeo@web124706.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Hello all, Wanted to update the list that my restored '76 TR6 is headed to eBay today at 12 noon PST (1/21/12). It is item number 120847393565 The link to the picture gallery is: triumph76tr6.weebly.com Would love to find this fantastic car a good home. Best regards, Eric Conrad Denver, CO-area From anncarletta at yahoo.com Sat Jan 21 12:52:51 2012 From: anncarletta at yahoo.com (Ann Carletta) Date: Sat, 21 Jan 2012 11:52:51 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] charging the battery In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1327175571.57548.YahooMailNeo@web113812.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Tim. I've been charging my TR3A since 1978 and I have never disconnected the cables. Never even heard of that and I'm 50. Ann Message: 3 Date: Fri, 20 Jan 2012 14:42:34 -0500 (EST) From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Off topic electrical question Message-ID: <11f80.7c2a8d7c.3c4b1daa at aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hi all; Perhaps someone can settle an argument between my son and I? When charging a car battery, I was always told to disconnect the battery terminals first, then connect the charger. My son, who is 23, NEVER disconnects the battery when connecting a charger to any car. He things the principle of having to disconnects is pointless. I have since found out that his practice seems commonplace among his generation. Anyone got any thoughts? Tim ________________________________