From jdabars at att.net Wed Aug 1 03:21:45 2012 From: jdabars at att.net (Janis Dabars) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2012 02:21:45 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Fw: Upbeat muzik Message-ID: <1343812905.66831.YahooMailRC@web185002.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Subject: Fw: Upbeat muzik Much better than rap, agree? Y/N RSVP jdabars at att.net ----- Forwarded Message ---- From: Janis Dabars Hi all; My TR3A has had a running problem for a long time that I have not had time to address. Finally, I am getting around to spending a few minutes here and there on it. After I drive it for 10/15 minutes, there is a very sudden loss of engine power and hesitation in the engine. I can usually maintain momentum for a couple of minutes and then the engine dies. Five minutes later, it starts fine. I've replaced everything ignition related, as well as fuel filter. I drove the car a couple of weeks ago. As soon as the engine lost power, I pulled over and removed the top of the float bowls. The float in the front carb was floating. The float in the rear carb was not, and there was no fuel in the bowl. There do not appear to be any external leaks in the carbs. Am I safe to assume this is a float valve problem? Tim From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Aug 1 06:23:43 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2012 08:23:43 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] SU H6 float question Message-ID: <25519.2c5f094e.3d4a79cf@cs.com> Possible but it also might be due to your tank not venting. Pulling fuel from a tank with a blocked vent will create a vacuum interfering with proper pump operation. Next time it happens pop open the fuller cap and see what happens. Of course the cap should vent but maybe it doesn't. Another possibility is vapor lock. I once had a car that ran fine until the thermostat opened up. Then it would barely run. Dave In a message dated 8/1/2012 4:41:22 AM Central Daylight Time, KingsCreekTrees at aol.com writes: > My TR3A has had a running problem for a long time that I have not had > time > to address. Finally, I am getting around to spending a few minutes here > and > there on it. > > After I drive it for 10/15 minutes, there is a very sudden loss of engine > > power and hesitation in the engine. I can usually maintain momentum for a > couple of minutes and then the engine dies. Five minutes later, it starts > > fine. I've replaced everything ignition related, as well as fuel filter. > > I drove the car a couple of weeks ago. As soon as the engine lost power, I > > pulled over and removed the top of the float bowls. The float in the front > > carb was floating. The float in the rear carb was not, and there was no > fuel in the bowl. There do not appear to be any external leaks in the > carbs. > > Am I safe to assume this is a float valve problem? From guy at genfiniti.com Wed Aug 1 06:25:21 2012 From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2012 07:25:21 -0500 Subject: [TR] SU H6 float question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6844166D-3B31-4917-8A39-75615CB7BDD5@genfiniti.com> Sounds like the rear valve sticking closed could be an issue, but also the fuel line between the carbs could be blocked somehow. Simple tests on each should reveal the issue. Are you running the original-styled needle valves or the ball-styled "grose' valves? On Aug 1, 2012, at 4:37 AM, KingsCreekTrees at aol.com wrote: > Hi all; > > My TR3A has had a running problem for a long time that I have not had time > to address. Finally, I am getting around to spending a few minutes here and > there on it. > > After I drive it for 10/15 minutes, there is a very sudden loss of engine > power and hesitation in the engine. I can usually maintain momentum for a > couple of minutes and then the engine dies. Five minutes later, it starts > fine. I've replaced everything ignition related, as well as fuel filter. > > I drove the car a couple of weeks ago. As soon as the engine lost power, I > pulled over and removed the top of the float bowls. The float in the front > carb was floating. The float in the rear carb was not, and there was no > fuel in the bowl. There do not appear to be any external leaks in the carbs. > > Am I safe to assume this is a float valve problem? > > Tim > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/guy at genfiniti.com From yellowtr at adelphia.net Wed Aug 1 05:56:15 2012 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Wed, 01 Aug 2012 07:56:15 -0400 Subject: [TR] SU H6 float question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5019195F.6060508@adelphia.net> Tim, Same problem here a few years ago but on the front carb. I was using the Gross (SP), jets and could not figure out why they were sticking closed. So I replaced them both with the original ones from Moss and problem solved. I have heard others mention that they are not fans of the Gross jets. If you have the stock jets, just replace them with new ones. Problem may be related to the alcohol in the gas but not sure. Could also be varnish or some other junk in the jet. Bob On 08/01/2012 05:37 AM, KingsCreekTrees at aol.com wrote: > Hi all; > > My TR3A has had a running problem for a long time that I have not had time > to address. Finally, I am getting around to spending a few minutes here and > there on it. > > After I drive it for 10/15 minutes, there is a very sudden loss of engine > power and hesitation in the engine. I can usually maintain momentum for a > couple of minutes and then the engine dies. Five minutes later, it starts > fine. I've replaced everything ignition related, as well as fuel filter. > > I drove the car a couple of weeks ago. As soon as the engine lost power, I > pulled over and removed the top of the float bowls. The float in the front > carb was floating. The float in the rear carb was not, and there was no > fuel in the bowl. There do not appear to be any external leaks in the carbs. > > Am I safe to assume this is a float valve problem? > > Tim From agraham at execulink.com Wed Aug 1 08:42:47 2012 From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham) Date: Wed, 01 Aug 2012 10:42:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 carb issue - fiber washers Message-ID: <50194067.9010709@execulink.com> Hello List: I fitted SU carb kits to my H4 carbs and was very pleased with the quality of the SU kits and the components supplied. Managed to get all of the leaks stopped and the float/needle issues straightened out. Only one problem, I can't manage to get the rear float bowl attachment point to stop leaking. The front carb float bowl with the supplied fiber washers is fine - no leaks, but the rear is another matter. I dressed the mating surfaces with a file, doubled up on the fiber washers, bu no luck. Still a prominent leak. I have used new fiber washers each time, but still no luck. Any substitute for the fiber washers? Something in a softer, more compliant material to affect a better seal against the bowl/carb body? What about using something like Permatex on the washers? Any advice greatly appreciated. Thanks, Angelo Graham From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Wed Aug 1 10:36:02 2012 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2012 09:36:02 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR2/3 carb issue - fiber washers In-Reply-To: <50194067.9010709@execulink.com> References: <50194067.9010709@execulink.com> Message-ID: <1343838962.77035.YahooMailNeo@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> i put a thin film of Hylomar on mine. i did it first time and no leaks. so i cant say if it was the Hylomar or just good gasket fit Frank ________________________________ From: Angelo Graham To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, August 1, 2012 7:42 AM Subject: [TR] TR2/3 carb issue - fiber washers Hello List: I fitted SU carb kits to my H4 carbs and was very pleased with the quality of the SU kits and the components supplied. Managed to get all of the leaks stopped and the float/needle issues straightened out. Only one problem, I can't manage to get the rear float bowl attachment point to stop leaking. The front carb float bowl with the supplied fiber washers is fine - no leaks, but the rear is another matter. I dressed the mating surfaces with a file, doubled up on the fiber washers, bu no luck. Still a prominent leak. I have used new fiber washers each time, but still no luck. Any substitute for the fiber washers? Something in a softer, more compliant material to affect a better seal against the bowl/carb body? What about using something like Permatex on the washers? Any advice greatly appreciated. Thanks, Angelo Graham ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From wbeech at flash.net Wed Aug 1 12:21:29 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2012 13:21:29 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 carb issue - fiber washers In-Reply-To: <1343838962.77035.YahooMailNeo@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <50194067.9010709@execulink.com> <1343838962.77035.YahooMailNeo@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <25A46E0D-78D8-458D-B82D-C69EE5DD8B0F@flash.net> I guess H4 and H6 kits are different. Mine came with rubber grommets. Sent from mobile Bill On Aug 1, 2012, at 11:36 AM, Frank Fisher wrote: > i put a thin film of Hylomar on mine. > i did it first time and no leaks. so i cant say if it was the Hylomar or just good gasket fit > Frank > > > ________________________________ > From: Angelo Graham > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Wednesday, August 1, 2012 7:42 AM > Subject: [TR] TR2/3 carb issue - fiber washers > > Hello List: > I fitted SU carb kits to my H4 carbs and was very pleased with the quality of the SU kits and the components supplied. Managed to get all of the leaks stopped and the float/needle issues straightened out. Only one problem, I can't manage to get the rear float bowl attachment point to stop leaking. The front carb float bowl with the supplied fiber washers is fine - no leaks, but the rear is another matter. > I dressed the mating surfaces with a file, doubled up on the fiber washers, bu no luck. Still a prominent leak. I have used new fiber washers each time, but still no luck. > Any substitute for the fiber washers? Something in a softer, more compliant material to affect a better seal against the bowl/carb body? What about using something like Permatex on the washers? > Any advice greatly appreciated. > Thanks, > Angelo Graham > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From jmerone at rocketmail.com Wed Aug 1 12:30:13 2012 From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2012 11:30:13 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Going to the TRials? Message-ID: <1343845813.67518.YahooMailNeo@web160303.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Hi all: Is anyone on this list going to the 6-pack TRials in Niagara Falls this September from either New England or upstate New York? I'm still on the fence, but if we go I'd like to join a caravan headed that way if possible. Please contact me off list. Thanks, Joe Merone CF18928 jmerone at rocketmail.com From SOThornton at aol.com Wed Aug 1 12:42:06 2012 From: SOThornton at aol.com (Steve Thornton) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2012 13:42:06 -0500 Subject: [TR] TRF's Summer Party Message-ID: <5406D264-A1D6-4E38-ACAC-8F980A02ADD6@aol.com> Hello List- Who is going to Pennsylvania this weekend for the Summer Party? Toga, toga, toga,.... Steven O. Thornton Attorney at Law 1011 Lehman Avenue Suite 102 Bowling Green, KY. 42103 Sent from my iPad From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Wed Aug 1 12:44:57 2012 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2012 11:44:57 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Going to the TRials? In-Reply-To: <1343845813.67518.YahooMailNeo@web160303.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> References: <1343845813.67518.YahooMailNeo@web160303.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1343846697.38807.YahooMailNeo@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> may want to fit a quick release seat belt assembly if your going over the falls in a TR6! ________________________________ From: Joe Merone To: Triumph List ; 6 Pack list <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Wednesday, August 1, 2012 11:30 AM Subject: [TR] Going to the TRials? Hi all: Is anyone on this list going to the 6-pack TRials in Niagara Falls this September from either New England or upstate New York? I'm still on the fence, but if we go I'd like to join a caravan headed that way if possible. Please contact me off list. Thanks, Joe Merone CF18928 jmerone at rocketmail.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From TR250Driver at aol.com Wed Aug 1 12:52:35 2012 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2012 14:52:35 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] TRF's Summer Party Message-ID: <2f93c.573c8dd1.3d4ad4f3@aol.com> Hey Steve, Beverly & I will be there. TKD Tappa Kegga Day!!!!! Toga----Toga----Toga Darrell In a message dated 8/1/2012 2:42:34 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, SOThornton at aol.com writes: Who is going to Pennsylvania this weekend for the Summer Party? Toga, toga, toga,.... From trmarty at hotmail.com Wed Aug 1 13:33:13 2012 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (trmarty at hotmail.com) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2012 15:33:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] TRF's Summer Party In-Reply-To: <5406D264-A1D6-4E38-ACAC-8F980A02ADD6@aol.com> References: <5406D264-A1D6-4E38-ACAC-8F980A02ADD6@aol.com> Message-ID: /local/mailman/lynxXXXXp4qwqH: Permission denied [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of ic_list_happy.png] From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Aug 1 13:42:11 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2012 12:42:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] SU H6 float question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <002a01cd701d$beff5760$3cfe0620$@rr.com> > Am I safe to assume this is a float valve problem? I would not assume that, especially since you say the engine dies completely later on. Incoming fuel is routed to the front carb first, so if there isn't enough to feed both carbs, the rear carb is the one that starves. And the engine will run (although not well, dies at idle, etc) on just the front carb. I would be looking for a fuel delivery problem first. Most "vacuum test gauges" will also measure fuel pressure. Tee it into the fuel line and prop the gauge under a wiper arm so you can see it when the engine starts to act up. http://goo.gl/HnvRG As I think someone already mentioned, you can try leaving the fuel cap open to be sure it is not a tank venting problem. -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Aug 1 13:30:30 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2012 12:30:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 carb issue - fiber washers In-Reply-To: <50194067.9010709@execulink.com> References: <50194067.9010709@execulink.com> Message-ID: <001d01cd701c$1d6c6290$584527b0$@rr.com> > I dressed the mating surfaces with a file, doubled up on the fiber > washers, bu no luck. Still a prominent leak. I have used new fiber > washers each time, but still no luck. The book shows a washer "set" with 3 washers in the diagram. I assume the bottom washer is steel. Are you installing all 3 washers? Does the bolt clamp down tight against the bowl (meaning you can't move the bowl after the bolt is tight) ? > Any substitute for the fiber washers? The Burlen web site shows the later rubber grommets (for the H6) as fitting the H4. You may also need the steel flat washer that goes against the bolt head. http://goo.gl/Xrh46 They also show a plastic (poly perhaps) replacement for the rubber that might work better. (I think I'll order a few of those myself as I get tired of replacing the rubber every few years.) It might be worth removing the carb from the engine, and holding it up where you can see clearly where the leak is. It might not be the washer at all. For example, there is a small plug in the bowl casting that might be leaking, or there could be a crack somewhere that isn't visible otherwise. I've tried various kinds of sealer on the rubber grommets over the years, none of them seem to help for very long. Classic Permatex is dissolved by ethanol, so I wouldn't think it would be a good choice (but didn't actually try it). But it might be different with the fiber washers, so may be worth a try if all else fails. -- Randall From jdabars at att.net Wed Aug 1 14:08:01 2012 From: jdabars at att.net (Janis Dabars) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2012 13:08:01 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Fw: Upbeat muzik In-Reply-To: <1343830424.76943.YahooMailRC@web185002.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <1343830424.76943.YahooMailRC@web185002.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1343851681.92384.YahooMailRC@web185001.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> ----- Forwarded Message ---- Subject: Re: Upbeat muzik What language are they singing in? Much better than rap, agree? Y/N RSVP jdabars at att.net ----- Forwarded Message ---- From: Janis Dabars Message-ID: Everyone, I want to replace the shaft seals to stop the leaks and am wondering whether there is there a trick to remove the axle mounting flanges on a TR6 diffy? I've tried a big puller but they won't budge and applying heat could damage the bearings, right? Thanks in advance, Gary From trmarty at hotmail.com Wed Aug 1 15:35:19 2012 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2012 17:35:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] TRF's Summer Party In-Reply-To: References: <5406D264-A1D6-4E38-ACAC-8F980A02ADD6@aol.com>, Message-ID: Team Sukey will be there as always. Will bring the TR8 this year as nothing else is running :) . I will have a get well poster hanging someplace in the lobby for Bob Harris, please be sure to sign it. Togas are packed, see you there. Marty [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png] From yellowtr at adelphia.net Wed Aug 1 17:12:15 2012 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Wed, 01 Aug 2012 19:12:15 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Diffy Axle Flange Removal In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5019B7CF.50003@adelphia.net> Gary, I was able to remove both flanges by putting them in a large vice and the using my breaker bar on a large puller by hitting the breaker bar with a BFH. They both popped off after a few wacks with the hammer. But if that failed, I would have used my impact wrench on full on the puller. Good luck! Bob On 08/01/2012 05:29 PM, Gary Klein wrote: > Everyone, > > I want to replace the shaft seals to stop the leaks and am wondering whether > there is there a trick to remove the axle mounting flanges on a TR6 diffy? > I've tried a big puller but they won't budge and applying heat could damage > the bearings, right? > > Thanks in advance, > > Gary From triumphstag at gmail.com Wed Aug 1 17:13:20 2012 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2012 16:13:20 -0700 Subject: [TR] Anyone rebuild a late Triumph's turn signal stalk (switch) Message-ID: I'm rebuilding one. On reassembly should apply any sort of grease so it moves more smoothly? Sujit -- Sujit Roy, Realtor Keller Williams Realty, Cupertino, CA (408) 839-8359 roysrealty.com From jdabars at att.net Wed Aug 1 18:02:05 2012 From: jdabars at att.net (Janis Dabars) Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2012 17:02:05 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Fw: Upbeat muzik In-Reply-To: <1343830424.76943.YahooMailRC@web185002.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <1343830424.76943.YahooMailRC@web185002.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1343865725.7099.YahooMailRC@web185001.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> What language are they singing in? Much better than rap, agree? Y/N RSVP jdabars at att.net ----- Forwarded Message ---- From: Janis Dabars Klik on this www.youtube.com/watch?v=lt7-Wmau780 3min 58sec From jdabars at att.net Thu Aug 2 12:43:37 2012 From: jdabars at att.net (Janis Dabars) Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2012 11:43:37 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Fw: @@@@ Message-ID: <1343933017.28396.YahooMailRC@web185006.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> ----- Forwarded Message ---- From: Janis Dabars To: John Dabars Sent: Thu, August 2, 2012 2:41:35 PM Subject: Fw: @@@@ klik here www.youtube.com/watch?v=lt7-Wmau780 From jdabars at att.net Thu Aug 2 12:46:44 2012 From: jdabars at att.net (Janis Dabars) Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2012 11:46:44 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Travel song Message-ID: <1343933204.34736.YahooMailRC@web185001.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> klik here www.youtube.com/watch?v=lt7-Wmau780 From jdabars at att.net Fri Aug 3 12:40:09 2012 From: jdabars at att.net (Janis Dabars) Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2012 11:40:09 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] www.youtube.com/watch?v=lt7-Wmau780 Message-ID: <1344019209.75967.YahooMailRC@web185005.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Sorry about the TRASH but I can not figure how to enter the www.youtube.com/watch?v=lt7-Wmau780 info which should come up in blue. Will NOT send this cute site again. John, Indianapolis, IN. WHOA is this the correct way? Enter the www.youtube info on Subject line? ________________________________ From: "triumphs-request at autox.team.net" To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, August 3, 2012 2:04:50 PM Subject: www.youtube.com/watch?v=lt7-Wmau780 Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to triumphs at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to triumphs-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at triumphs-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Fw: @@@@ (Janis Dabars) 2. Travel song (Janis Dabars) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2012 11:43:37 -0700 (PDT) From: Janis Dabars To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Fw: @@@@ Message-ID: <1343933017.28396.YahooMailRC at web185006.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ----- Forwarded Message ---- From: Janis Dabars To: John Dabars Sent: Thu, August 2, 2012 2:41:35 PM Subject: Fw: @@@@ klik here www.youtube.com/watch?v=lt7-Wmau780 ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Thu, 2 Aug 2012 11:46:44 -0700 (PDT) From: Janis Dabars To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Travel song Message-ID: <1343933204.34736.YahooMailRC at web185001.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" klik here www.youtube.com/watch?v=lt7-Wmau780 ------------------------------ _______________________________________________ Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 5, Issue 321 **************************************** From levilevi at comcast.net Fri Aug 3 14:03:38 2012 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2012 14:03:38 -0600 Subject: [TR] Sad day - I sold a Triumph Message-ID: That gap in my signature below is "66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)" that has now become an organ donor for other TRs. I sold it to Paul Dierschow of Sports Car Craftsmen here in Denver if you're looking for things not available in catalogs such as a rear shelf or B posts. So in celebration of me actually selling a car instead of buying another my wife went shopping, now that's insult to injury. The celebration may be short lived thought if I buy a vintage race car. Somberly, Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net From triumphstag at gmail.com Fri Aug 3 14:07:33 2012 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy) Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2012 13:07:33 -0700 Subject: [TR] poly verses non-ploy bushes Message-ID: I'm in the slow process of building a 2nd stag and am debating whether to go for poly bushes or not. The Stag is not a performance car that you can swing around corners and I don't plan on using performance shocks or the like. The cost of poly is about 4 times more than normal bushes? Will the bushes last 4 times longer? What other benefits do I get for the price? Sujit From triosan at gmail.com Fri Aug 3 16:28:02 2012 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley) Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2012 15:28:02 -0700 Subject: [TR] Sad day - I sold a Triumph In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Not if ... WHEN On Fri, Aug 3, 2012 at 1:03 PM, Bud Rolofson wrote: > That gap in my signature below is "66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost > parts)" that has now become an organ donor for other TRs. I sold it to > Paul Dierschow of Sports Car Craftsmen here in Denver if you're looking for > things not available in catalogs such as a rear shelf or B posts. > > So in celebration of me actually selling a car instead of buying another > my wife went shopping, now that's insult to injury. The celebration may be > short lived thought if I buy a vintage race car. > > Somberly, > Bud Rolofson > > 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) > > 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) > 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) > Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) > levilevi at comcast.net > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > options/triumphs/triosan@**gmail.com > -- Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley From levilevi at comcast.net Fri Aug 3 17:09:55 2012 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2012 17:09:55 -0600 Subject: [TR] Sad Day - I sold a Triumph Message-ID: That gap in my signature below is "66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)" that has now become an organ donor for other TRs. I sold it to Paul Dierschow of Sports Car Craftsmen here in Denver if you're looking for things not available in catalogs such as a rear shelf or B posts. So in celebration of me actually selling a car instead of buying another my wife went shopping, now that's insult to injury. The celebration may be short lived though if I buy a vintage race car. Somberly, Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Fri Aug 3 18:00:39 2012 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2012 17:00:39 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Going to the TRials? In-Reply-To: <1343908295.97403.YahooMailNeo@web39401.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <1343908295.97403.YahooMailNeo@web39401.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1344038439.54779.YahooMailNeo@web39401.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hi List! I sent this to Joe M. the other day & didn't get a reply. A lot of times my E-mails don't go through to people because their server's think it's Spam mail. So I'm sending this to the list to have anyone reply to my questions that may have the answers. PLEASE reply directly to my E-mail address (above), because I'm sure the list is to busy with more important threads, than mine. TIA, -Cosmo Kramer From: Cosmo Kramer >To: "jmerone at rocketmail.com" >Sent: Thursday, August 2, 2012 7:51 AM >Subject: Going to the TRials? > > > >Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2012 11:30:13 -0700 (P >From: Joe Merone >Subject: [TR] Going to the TRials? > >Hi all: >Is anyone on this list going to the 6-pack TRials in Niagara >Falls this September from either New England or upstate New York? I'm still >on the fence, but if we go I'd like to join a caravan headed that way if >possible. Please contact me off list. > >Thanks, >Joe Merone >------------------------------- >Hi Joe! >This is the first time that I've heard of anything going on in Niagara Falls (NF). >Is this event in NF, USA or NF, CA? >What are the date/s of this event? >Is there a web site address that you can send to me, for me to view on the agenda? > >The reason that I'm asking is, that I live East, only 30->45 min. away from NF, USA. >Do you think that IF I offer my house (I have a spare bedroom) to stay the night/s, that anyone would be willing to take me up on it? (Thus save the cost of hotel/motel.) >-Cosmo Kramer From levilevi at comcast.net Fri Aug 3 22:16:47 2012 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2012 22:16:47 -0600 Subject: [TR] A type OD top cover switch question Message-ID: <7C934897-0FAA-49BD-A3D0-22120A37833D@comcast.net> List, If an A type OD has three switches on the top cover does that means it has a seat belt interlock? And if it only has two switches on the top cover does that mean it only has an OD and reverse switch without a seat belt interlock? What year did the seat belt interlock switches appear? Thanks Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net From levilevi at comcast.net Fri Aug 3 22:32:36 2012 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2012 22:32:36 -0600 Subject: [TR] A type OD top cover switch question Message-ID: List, If an A type OD has three switches on the top cover does that means it has a seat belt interlock? And if it only has two switches on the top cover does that mean it only has an OD and reverse switch without a seat belt interlock? What year did the seat belt interlock switches appear? Thanks Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net From glemon at neb.rr.com Fri Aug 3 23:25:03 2012 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2012 00:25:03 -0500 Subject: [TR] A type OD top cover switch question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi Bud, take a look here, may help http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Gearbox/GearboxCover/GearboxCover.htm The Buckeye Triumphs site is a great technical resource. http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/technical.htm Good Luck! Greg Lemon 68 TR250 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bud Rolofson" To: Sent: Friday, August 03, 2012 11:32 PM Subject: [TR] A type OD top cover switch question > List, > > If an A type OD has three switches on the top cover does that means it > has a seat belt interlock? And if it only has two switches on the top > cover does that mean it only has an OD and reverse switch without a > seat belt interlock? What year did the seat belt interlock switches > appear? > > Thanks > Bud Rolofson > > 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) > 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) > 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) > Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) > levilevi at comcast.net > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/glemon at neb.rr.com From SeanFriele at friele.us Sat Aug 4 00:04:14 2012 From: SeanFriele at friele.us (Sean Friele) Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2012 23:04:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] New Member Introduction and Need Clutch Pedal Message-ID: Hi, I'm Sean. I inhereted a TR3A from my grandparants (original owners) and discovered a broken Clutch pedal. Does anyone have one they are willing to sell or can recomend a source I can get it from? From levilevi at comcast.net Sat Aug 4 01:06:57 2012 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2012 01:06:57 -0600 Subject: [TR] A type OD top cover switch question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7FFCD82D-8775-46BA-B142-BA2D6C7954D7@comcast.net> Thanks Greg, that info. is exactly what I wanted to know. I should have remembered to go to the Buckeye site, Nelson Riedel's stuff is the best information around. Certainly the catalogs are no help on top covers and switches Bud 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Aug 3, 2012, at 11:25 PM, Greg Lemon wrote: > Hi Bud, take a look here, may help > > http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Gearbox/GearboxCover/GearboxCover.htm > > The Buckeye Triumphs site is a great technical resource. > > http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/technical.htm > > Good Luck! > > Greg Lemon > 68 TR250 > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bud Rolofson" > > To: > Sent: Friday, August 03, 2012 11:32 PM > Subject: [TR] A type OD top cover switch question > > >> List, >> >> If an A type OD has three switches on the top cover does that means >> it >> has a seat belt interlock? And if it only has two switches on the top >> cover does that mean it only has an OD and reverse switch without a >> seat belt interlock? What year did the seat belt interlock switches >> appear? >> >> Thanks >> Bud Rolofson >> >> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) >> 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) >> 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) >> Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) >> levilevi at comcast.net >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/glemon at neb.rr.com From agraham at execulink.com Sat Aug 4 10:47:40 2012 From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham) Date: Sat, 04 Aug 2012 12:47:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 stator tube - nut. Message-ID: <501D522C.6040402@execulink.com> Hello List: Getting slight weeping from the end of the stator tube on my '2 and I may have overtightened the nut in efforts to stop the leaking. Is this nut a 'specialty' item or can it be sourced from local hardware suppliers as a compression nut? Same question for the olives. Have seen the information on the olives for the hard gas lines in the 2/3s and wondering if the same holds for the stator olive. Thanks for any insight into this one. Angelo Graham From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Aug 4 10:59:14 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2012 09:59:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 stator tube - nut. In-Reply-To: <501D522C.6040402@execulink.com> References: <501D522C.6040402@execulink.com> Message-ID: <13f001cd7262$7a691180$0601a8c0@randall> The originals were slightly different dimensions than the ones commonly available today. In the past, I was able to "get away" with using hardware store items, but the last time I tried it, the nut would just slip off the threads when I tried to tighten it. If you can find an original nut, it might be able to clamp down on the hardware store olive; I didn't try that. But I won't be surprised if it works out like the fuel pump, it almost works but not quite. -- Randall From wbeech at flash.net Sat Aug 4 11:05:47 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2012 12:05:47 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 stator tube - nut. In-Reply-To: <501D522C.6040402@execulink.com> References: <501D522C.6040402@execulink.com> Message-ID: <05ED27AA559045C987D03814CB544738@bboffice> If the Nut is OK, and the tube is not compressed, just a new olive as they can wear out. $2 at TRF, have not looked at the local HW store to see if the sizes match, maybe someone else has? Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Angelo Graham Sent: Saturday, August 04, 2012 11:48 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR2/3 stator tube - nut. Hello List: Getting slight weeping from the end of the stator tube on my '2 and I may have overtightened the nut in efforts to stop the leaking. Is this nut a 'specialty' item or can it be sourced from local hardware suppliers as a compression nut? Same question for the olives. Have seen the information on the olives for the hard gas lines in the 2/3s and wondering if the same holds for the stator olive. Thanks for any insight into this one. Angelo Graham ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From rgt2 at sbcglobal.net Sat Aug 4 11:23:26 2012 From: rgt2 at sbcglobal.net (rod Trunnell) Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2012 10:23:26 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 stator tube - nut. In-Reply-To: <05ED27AA559045C987D03814CB544738@bboffice> References: <501D522C.6040402@execulink.com> <05ED27AA559045C987D03814CB544738@bboffice> Message-ID: <100DAB96-DCDA-475D-A3E0-E3648B2F6874@sbcglobal.net> I have used the olive from my local hardware store and have not experienced any leakage or other issues with them. I don't recall the size off the top of my head. Rod Trunnell 62 TR3B. TCF1037l On Aug 4, 2012, at 10:05 AM, "Wbeech" wrote: > If the Nut is OK, and the tube is not compressed, just a new olive as they > can wear out. $2 at TRF, have not looked at the local HW store to see if > the sizes match, maybe someone else has? > Bill > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Angelo Graham > Sent: Saturday, August 04, 2012 11:48 AM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] TR2/3 stator tube - nut. > > Hello List: > Getting slight weeping from the end of the stator tube on my '2 and I > may have overtightened the nut in efforts to stop the leaking. Is this > nut a 'specialty' item or can it be sourced from local hardware > suppliers as a compression nut? Same question for the olives. Have seen > the information on the olives for the hard gas lines in the 2/3s and > wondering if the same holds for the stator olive. > Thanks for any insight into this one. > Angelo Graham > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rgt2 at sbcglobal.net From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Sat Aug 4 15:20:46 2012 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2012 14:20:46 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] New Member Introduction and Need Clutch Pedal In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1344115246.73485.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> welcome Sean there is a pedal assembly on ebay right now current bid is 10.00 search on TR3 Frank ________________________________ From: Sean Friele To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" Sent: Friday, August 3, 2012 11:04 PM Subject: [TR] New Member Introduction and Need Clutch Pedal Hi, I'm Sean. I inhereted a TR3A from my grandparants (original owners) and discovered a broken Clutch pedal. Does anyone have one they are willing to sell or can recomend a source I can get it from? ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From wbeech at flash.net Sat Aug 4 15:53:08 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2012 16:53:08 -0500 Subject: [TR] Caliper O-Ring Message-ID: OK, I know we are not supposed to split the calipers but they were really old and nasty on this TR3B, I had to scrape the rust and crud out of the groves along with the bits of rubber seals. The re-build kit does not include the O-Ring between the calipers, TRF does not sell them, guessing that Moss does not either as they are not listed. Does anyone have a source for these to little o-rings? Maybe Mc-Carr? Thanks, Bill B Bill Beecher '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby" '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" www.triumphowners.com/1566 '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" "If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow" M.Andretti From rgt2 at sbcglobal.net Sat Aug 4 16:11:33 2012 From: rgt2 at sbcglobal.net (rod Trunnell) Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2012 15:11:33 -0700 Subject: [TR] Caliper O-Ring In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <23972ADA-855E-4DFE-94A0-EB0DEED4EEB0@sbcglobal.net> I see the seal is still listed by Moss, 61 583-821 $7.95 SEAL, between caliper halves caliper illus. "B" - TR3A from TS56337 (wire wheels), TS56384 (disc wheels), TR3B (TSF series), TR4 to CT4689 (wire wheel 2 I used this seal when I rebuilt my calipers and have not had any issues with it. Rod On Aug 4, 2012, at 2:53 PM, "Wbeech" wrote: > OK, I know we are not supposed to split the calipers but they were really > old and nasty on this TR3B, I had to scrape the rust and crud out of the > groves along with the bits of rubber seals. > > The re-build kit does not include the O-Ring between the calipers, TRF does > not sell them, guessing that Moss does not either as they are not listed. > Does anyone have a source for these to little o-rings? Maybe Mc-Carr? > > Thanks, > Bill B > > Bill Beecher > '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby" > '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" > www.triumphowners.com/1566 > '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" > "If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow" > M.Andretti > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Sat Aug 4 16:22:02 2012 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2012 15:22:02 -0700 Subject: [TR] Caliper O-Ring In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: This? http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/SearchResults.aspx?SearchText=583-820&WebCatalogID=0 G On Sat, Aug 4, 2012 at 2:53 PM, Wbeech wrote: > The re-build kit does not include the O-Ring between the calipers, TRF does > not sell them, guessing that Moss does not either as they are not listed. > Does anyone have a source for these to little o-rings? Maybe Mc-Carr? From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Aug 4 16:27:10 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2012 15:27:10 -0700 Subject: [TR] Caliper O-Ring In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <147e01cd7290$4a2072b0$0601a8c0@randall> Moss does have them listed. Either 583-821 or 583-820, depending on whether you have the first or second generation split calipers. (According to Moss, your TCF series would have the 2nd gen caliper and take 583-820.) IIRC the later seal is a standard size O-ring; while the earlier seal had a rectangular cross section. That may explain why the early seal is almost 3 times the price of the later one! -- Randall From wbeech at flash.net Sat Aug 4 16:41:19 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Sat, 4 Aug 2012 17:41:19 -0500 Subject: [TR] Caliper O-Ring In-Reply-To: <23972ADA-855E-4DFE-94A0-EB0DEED4EEB0@sbcglobal.net> References: <23972ADA-855E-4DFE-94A0-EB0DEED4EEB0@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: There it is, too late in the day I guess. Mine is a TCF so 583-820 is right for me. Many thanks! Bill Trunnell [mailto:rgt2 at sbcglobal.net] Sent: Saturday, August 04, 2012 5:12 PM To: Wbeech Cc: Subject: Re: [TR] Caliper O-Ring I see the seal is still listed by Moss, 61 583-821 $7.95 SEAL, between caliper halves caliper illus. "B" - TR3A from TS56337 (wire wheels), TS56384 (disc wheels), TR3B (TSF series), TR4 to CT4689 (wire wheel 2 I used this seal when I rebuilt my calipers and have not had any issues with it. Rod On Aug 4, 2012, at 2:53 PM, "Wbeech" wrote: OK, I know we are not supposed to split the calipers but they were really old and nasty on this TR3B, I had to scrape the rust and crud out of the groves along with the bits of rubber seals. The re-build kit does not include the O-Ring between the calipers, TRF does not sell them, guessing that Moss does not either as they are not listed. Does anyone have a source for these to little o-rings? Maybe Mc-Carr? Thanks, Bill B Bill Beecher '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby" '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" www.triumphowners.com/1566 '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" "If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow" M.Andretti ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** From aribertn at gmail.com Sat Aug 4 22:02:22 2012 From: aribertn at gmail.com (aribert neumann) Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2012 00:02:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] quality synchros currently available? Message-ID: Greetings All: I suddenly need to source synchros for my early GT6 trans. I reused my old synchros last time around and set aside the new ones. Today I began to reassemble the trans w/ the unused synchros and they are junk ( I have no idea where I bought them 8 years ago)! The space between the gear and synchro is about 0.010 or less instead of the 0.040+ gap. For grins I chucked up one of these poorly made synchros in my lathe and removed about 0.030 stock from the flat surface. Now I have the suitable gap between gear & synchro but if the taper diameter was mis-machined, what else will give me problems? Are there any quality synchros currently available - and who sells them? From glemon at neb.rr.com Sun Aug 5 06:58:36 2012 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2012 07:58:36 -0500 Subject: [TR] quality synchros currently available? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <48CBDABE7DA64D6D8EDA1C7466E12997@GregPC> The Roadster Factory claims to check theirs, and that they are higher quality, if you have a late GT6 they are really cheap. http://trf.zeni.net/allsummerb/16.php?s_wt=1366&s_ht=768 As an aside when I rebuilt my tranny I used new synchro cups, I had trouble with 2nd gear, I ended up having a shop repair it, before I did that I took it apart myself and had looked at the 2nd gear synchro with a former BL mechanic and we agreed it was out of spec (after maybe 2500 miles). He suggested I use the best of what came off before the rebuild, suggesting that 4th gear synchros didn't see much wear. Anyway, that is what I had the (local, non specialist) tranny shop use in rebuilding the tranny, the guy thought I was crazy using the old part, apparently was not familiar with the sometimes poor quality of certain reproduction parts for old LBCs. Greg Lemon TR250 From triosan at gmail.com Sun Aug 5 10:28:48 2012 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley) Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2012 09:28:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] quality synchros currently available? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: .moss has nice and expensive ones. On Aug 4, 2012 9:08 PM, "aribert neumann" wrote: > Greetings All: > > > > I suddenly need to source synchros for my early GT6 trans. I reused my old > synchros last time around and set aside the new ones. Today I began to > reassemble the trans w/ the unused synchros and they are junk ( I have no > idea where I bought them 8 years ago)! The space between the gear and > synchro is about 0.010 or less instead of the 0.040+ gap. For grins > I chucked up one of these poorly made synchros in my lathe and removed > about 0.030 stock from the flat surface. Now I have the suitable gap > between gear & synchro but if the taper diameter was mis-machined, what > else will give me problems? Are there any quality synchros currently > available - and who sells them? > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triosan at gmail.com From chandler.rick at comcast.net Sun Aug 5 13:26:25 2012 From: chandler.rick at comcast.net (Rick) Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2012 12:26:25 -0700 Subject: [TR] Caliper O-Ring Message-ID: The prohibition on splitting the calipers is a persistent piece of Triumph folklore. Like any soft part, the seal is overdue for replacement after 50 years of service. Use care to keep the parts clean during reassembly. Torque the 3/8" bolt to 45 ft-lbs and the 7/16" bolt to 75 ft-lbs. You'll need a big vise to hold the caliper for this operation. [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of image001.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of image003.gif] From wbeech at flash.net Sun Aug 5 14:16:26 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2012 15:16:26 -0500 Subject: [TR] Caliper O-Ring In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <23BE876556314469AA0093FF06E81B3C@bboffice> Apparently TRF, or their insurance carrier, still believes the folklore as the answer I got back was: "We are not allowed to sell them, as a liability issue" My feeling is that if they are not to be split they would either be permanently assembled or made as a single unit like on TS30766 with the crossover pipe. Thanks to several who responded with torque data. Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby" '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" www.triumphowners.com/1566 '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" "If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow" M.Andretti -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rick Sent: Sunday, August 05, 2012 2:26 PM To: 'Triumphs' Subject: [TR] Caliper O-Ring The prohibition on splitting the calipers is a persistent piece of Triumph folklore. Like any soft part, the seal is overdue for replacement after 50 years of service. Use care to keep the parts clean during reassembly. Torque the 3/8" bolt to 45 ft-lbs and the 7/16" bolt to 75 ft-lbs. You'll need a big vise to hold the caliper for this operation. [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of image001.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of image003.gif] ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From paulwillou at socal.rr.com Sun Aug 5 15:05:44 2012 From: paulwillou at socal.rr.com (Paul Willoughby) Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2012 14:05:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 Brakes Stuck Message-ID: <2AEE1F5B5F824D6995EF38D3410B7F7D@paulal73q2sjay> I went to my storage garage to start the '64 TR4 and drive it around the block, first time in 6 months. The front brakes were stuck. I managed to rev the engine enough to get the car rolling and then drive around the block, but the brakes never really loosened up that much. They stopped fine and the pedal pressure felt fine. Checking my records, I rebuilt the master cylinder in 2002 - 5,000 miles ago. I switched to silicon fluid in 2006 - 1,000 miles ago. I don't think I've replaced the brake hoses and I've never touched the calipers. The brakes pads have always rubbed a little. What I mean is that if the car was stopped on a slight incline, it would not roll if I took my foot off the pedal. Time to rebuild the calipers? Is it safe to drive the car 5 miles home to my workshop? paulw, Torrance, CA 1964 TR4 1956 TR3 From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Sun Aug 5 16:41:22 2012 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2012 15:41:22 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Lessons Learned - Was New Member Introduction and Need Clutch Pedal Message-ID: <1344206482.12087.YahooMailNeo@web180901.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> I see someone already responded that there are 3 pedal assemblies for sale on Ebay. I let my daughter drive my TR3 a while back. She was trying to return the seat to the proper position for me (all the way back!). She was pushing against the clutch pedal as hard as she could and broke it off. Luckily, I had a spare. I'll be TIG welding up my old one as as a spare. I just wanted to post something so list members would know so they could keep there eyes peeled in case someone else tries to do this in their TR3. I guess that means that I should lube my seats rails as well. I don't have trouble sliding the seats, but others do. Bill in Tehachapi Date: Fri, 3 Aug 2012 23:04:14 -0700 From: Sean Friele To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" Subject: [TR] New Member Introduction and Need Clutch Pedal Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hi, I'm Sean. I inhereted a TR3A from my grandparants (original owners) and discovered a broken Clutch pedal. Does anyone have one they are willing to sell or can recomend a source I can get it from? From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Aug 5 17:30:11 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2012 16:30:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] Caliper O-Ring In-Reply-To: <23BE876556314469AA0093FF06E81B3C@bboffice> References: <23BE876556314469AA0093FF06E81B3C@bboffice> Message-ID: <152401cd7362$421ba670$0601a8c0@randall> > My feeling is that if they are not to be split they would either be > permanently assembled Nothing is "permanently assembled" if you apply enough force! The advice to never disassemble Girling calipers originally came directly from Girling. I have seen the service note. > or made as a single unit like on TS30766 with the crossover pipe. So, did you also remove the big plug in the side of those calipers? Your theory appears to be that if it has threads, it's meant to be removed ... -- Randall From trmarty at hotmail.com Sun Aug 5 20:23:02 2012 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2012 22:23:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] TRF S.P. Message-ID: Just got back from this years TRF Summer Party. If you stayed home you missed a good one! Cant wait to do it again next year. From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Mon Aug 6 03:31:48 2012 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2012 02:31:48 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] (no subject) Message-ID: <1344245508.99577.YahooMailNeo@web39402.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hi Aribert Neumann & list! I would be VERY leery of purchasing the synchros listed by TRF's for TR4A & TR6's. The reason is that, it was posted many years ago, on this list, that the TR4A & TR6 synchros where slightly different. You may be lucky that these do work in your tranny, or not, but that's a chance you'll have to take AFTER you try out the rebuilt TR6 tranny. Now, if it works, GREAT! BUT!, If it doesn't, then you'll have to redo everything with the right synchros. I'll check in my "Cosmo TR4/A E-mail Repair manual" to see if it is there as a reference, or you can check yourself if you go to: http://tinyurl.com/6c647jh It would most likely be under Gearbox\Standard. Now the TR4A synchros came out before the TR6's were even made. The TR6 trannys are 'SO POST TO BE" the same trannys, but the TR6's did make changes through the many years of production. '72 to '73 was the biggest amounts of changes. So may be the synchros that are different for the TR6's where never separated, or someone thought that because the TR4A & TR6 trannys were the same, then so would be the Synchros? But may be TRF made a correction since then? ----------- Relating to : Message: 8 Date: Sun, 5 Aug 2012 07:58:36 -0500 From: "Greg Lemon" To: "aribert neumann" , Subject: Re: [TR] quality synchros currently available? The Roadster Factory claims to check theirs, and that they are higher quality, if you have a late GT6 they are really cheap. http://trf.zeni.net/allsummerb/16.php?s_wt=1366&s_ht=768 As an aside when I rebuilt my tranny I used new synchro cups, I had trouble with 2nd gear, I ended up having a shop repair it, before I did that I took it apart myself and had looked at the 2nd gear synchro with a former BL mechanic and we agreed it was out of spec (after maybe 2500 miles). He suggested I use the best of what came off before the rebuild, suggesting that 4th gear synchros didn't see much wear. Anyway, that is what I had the (local, non specialist) tranny shop use in rebuilding the tranny, the guy thought I was crazy using the old part, apparently was not familiar with the sometimes poor quality of certain reproduction parts for old LBCs. Greg Lemon TR250 -Cosmo Kramer From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Mon Aug 6 07:47:01 2012 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2012 09:47:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumphess info... Message-ID: <380-2201281613471338@M2W105.mail2web.com> Listers, Is any body else slightly frustrated with the Triumphest registration website or is it just me? I am trying to get information about the dinner choice; (steak or chicken..) is all that is indicated. My better half needs more information than just the type of meat! She wants to know what the actual dinner or menu meal is to make a choice, you know Whole Chicken, Boneless Breast, Top Sirloin, Prime rib, etc.  Maybe Im too old or impatient to search the website for that info, but I didnt see it when I looked. Give me the old fashioned pdf or form,(Im driving a 40 year old car after all), and descriptions of what the heck is going on  Ill be going, but I would like to register, but I cant finish it till the wife can make her decision Anybody here got the info or knows where I can get it?? Barry Schwartz, frustrated in San Diego... -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://link.mail2web.com/mail2web From wbeech at flash.net Mon Aug 6 08:28:42 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2012 09:28:42 -0500 Subject: [TR] Triumphess info... In-Reply-To: <380-2201281613471338@M2W105.mail2web.com> References: <380-2201281613471338@M2W105.mail2web.com> Message-ID: <2C2A1BE4315742D2902F511C286B5DBE@bboffice> I haven't tried that yet, but I am driving a 50 year car so I would just pick up the telephone and call the hotel. Ask for the Catering department and I would bet you they can answer all her questions if the menu has been set. Good luck, Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of v6spitfireguy at cox.net Sent: Monday, August 06, 2012 8:47 AM To: spitfires at autox.team.net Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Triumphess info... Listers, Is any body else slightly frustrated with the Triumphest registration website or is it just me? I am trying to get information about the dinner choice; (steak or chicken..) is all that is indicated. My better half needs more information than just the type of meat! She wants to know what the actual dinner or menu meal is to make a choice, you know Whole Chicken, Boneless Breast, Top Sirloin, Prime rib, etc.  Maybe Im too old or impatient to search the website for that info, but I didnt see it when I looked. Give me the old fashioned pdf or form,(Im driving a 40 year old car after all), and descriptions of what the heck is going on  Ill be going, but I would like to register, but I cant finish it till the wife can make her decision Anybody here got the info or knows where I can get it?? Barry Schwartz, frustrated in San Diego... -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://link.mail2web.com/mail2web ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From anabil007 at comcast.net Mon Aug 6 11:08:45 2012 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2012 10:08:45 -0700 Subject: [TR] Synchros In-Reply-To: <1344245508.99577.YahooMailNeo@web39402.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <1344245508.99577.YahooMailNeo@web39402.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <50AC1F08-DF53-44D8-A855-9BAC06EBF2AF@comcast.net> For what is it worth, I know, not much. Bad Syncros were the Main reason Herman stopped doing Trannies, and started inventing his conversion kit b& On Aug 6, 2012, at 2:31 AM, Cosmo Kramer wrote: > Hi Aribert Neumann & list! > I would be VERY leery of purchasing the synchros > listed by TRF's for TR4A & TR6's. The reason is that, it was posted many > years ago, on this list, that the TR4A & TR6 synchros where slightly > different. You may be lucky that these do work in your tranny, or not, but > that's a chance you'll have to take AFTER you try out the rebuilt TR6 tranny. > Now, if it works, GREAT! BUT!, If it doesn't, then you'll have to redo > everything with the right synchros. I'll check in my "Cosmo TR4/A E-mail > Repair manual" to see if it is there as a reference, or you can check yourself > if you go to: > http://tinyurl.com/6c647jh > > It would most likely be under > Gearbox\Standard. > > Now the TR4A synchros came out before the TR6's were even > made. The TR6 trannys are 'SO POST TO BE" the same trannys, but the TR6's did > make changes through the many years of production. '72 to '73 was the biggest > amounts of changes. So may be the synchros that are different for the TR6's > where never separated, or someone thought that because the TR4A & TR6 trannys > were the same, then so would be the Synchros? > > But may be TRF made a > correction since then? > ----------- > Relating to : > Message: 8 > Date: Sun, 5 > Aug 2012 07:58:36 -0500 > From: "Greg Lemon" > To: "aribert > neumann" , > Subject: Re: [TR] > quality synchros currently available? > > The Roadster Factory claims to check > theirs, and that they are higher > quality, if you have a late GT6 they are > really cheap. > > http://trf.zeni.net/allsummerb/16.php?s_wt=1366&s_ht=768 > > As an > aside when I rebuilt my tranny I used new synchro cups, I had trouble > with > 2nd gear, I ended up having a shop repair it, before I did that I took > it > apart myself and had looked at the 2nd gear synchro with a former BL > mechanic > and we agreed it was out of spec (after maybe 2500 miles). He > suggested I use > the best of what came off before the rebuild, suggesting > that 4th gear > synchros didn't see much wear. > > Anyway, that is what I had the (local, non > specialist) tranny shop use in > rebuilding the tranny, the guy thought I was > crazy using the old part, > apparently was not familiar with the sometimes poor > quality of certain > reproduction parts for old LBCs. > > Greg Lemon > TR250 > "Life is too short to drive boring cars" Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper"p; TS16765L Wallace, CA anabil007 at comcast.net From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Aug 6 12:24:00 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2012 11:24:00 -0700 Subject: [TR] Synchros In-Reply-To: <50AC1F08-DF53-44D8-A855-9BAC06EBF2AF@comcast.net> References: <1344245508.99577.YahooMailNeo@web39402.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <50AC1F08-DF53-44D8-A855-9BAC06EBF2AF@comcast.net> Message-ID: <004801cd7400$a6be6510$f43b2f30$@rr.com> > For what is it worth, I know, not much. Bad Syncros were the Main > reason > Herman stopped doing Trannies, and started inventing his conversion kit > b& Just to add what little I know: There was a largish run made of TR2-6 synchro rings that did not always work properly. Lots of theories as to why they frequently didn't work, but I don't recall there ever being a consensus on what, exactly, was the problem with them. I don't know who had them made, but all of the usual suspects were apparently selling rings from the same batch. When Herman did a gearbox for me, he insisted that I find some NOS synchro rings for him to use. But, that was a long time ago. Since then, a new run was made (commissioned by TRF I believe, although it may have been a joint project among several suppliers) and from what I've heard, the new rings work well. I used several of them in the last Stag gearbox I put together, and they worked great for me. But none of this really applies to the original question, as he was asking about GT6 synchro rings and they do not interchange with the TR2-6 (and Stag, etc) rings. -- Randall From arakelianp at mossmotors.com Tue Aug 7 09:48:29 2012 From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Pete Arakelian) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2012 08:48:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR250/6 t/o bearing sleeve Message-ID: <4D4FABA15328FC42B1AA0DEE4673548C86F7FD37B7@DR-EX-04.datacenter.dataresolution.net> The clutch release bearing rides on a sleeve that has a roll pin in it to stop the sleeve from rotating when the pin hits the pins in the clutch fork. Current sleeves I have looked at have a hole drilled for the roll pin, but there is no corresponding dimple or hole on the other side of the slot to engage the pin. Does anyone see this as a problem? Should there be a dimple or hole across the slot for additional strength? Or is it simply not required? I need to know pretty quick and am on digest so could you please respond to m direct as well? Thanks, Peter From trmarty at hotmail.com Tue Aug 7 10:49:09 2012 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2012 12:49:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] TRF's Uncle Dave Message-ID: Anybody heard any updates on Uncle Dave? Marty From keithstewart at execulink.com Tue Aug 7 11:27:11 2012 From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2012 13:27:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] TRF S.P. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On Sun, 5 Aug 2012 at 22:23:02, trmarty at hotmail.com wrote: > > > Just got back from this years TRF Summer Party. If you stayed home you missed > a good one! Cant wait to do it again next year. Right you are. We just got home this afternoon. What a great drive, what great events, what great social times! Marty, thanks for setting up the poster for us to have a chance to send our best wishes to Bob Harris. Hope he is better soon. Keith R. Stewart 75 Camden Road London, Ontario N5X 2K2 Home: (519) 660-1916 E-Mail: keithstewart at execulink.com From keithstewart at execulink.com Tue Aug 7 11:27:37 2012 From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2012 13:27:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] TRF's Summer Party In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <550B5419-3799-4CF7-81E9-F3BD9CB95B67@execulink.com> On Wed, 1 Aug 2012 at 13:42, Steve Thornton wrote: > > > > Who is going to Pennsylvania this weekend for the Summer Party? > > Toga, toga, toga,.... > Al ready here. Yesterday afternoon, I noticed the first few campers were already on the field and a motorhome was just pulling in. Drive-in movie tonight. :-) Keith R. Stewart London, Ontario E-Mail: keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom From keithstewart at execulink.com Tue Aug 7 11:27:42 2012 From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2012 13:27:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] TRF's Summer Party In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2FC52A89-B037-4F5F-835B-DB19E17856A0@execulink.com> On Wed, 1 Aug 2012 at 13:42, Steve Thornton wrote: > > > > Who is going to Pennsylvania this weekend for the Summer Party? > > Toga, toga, toga,.... > Al ready here. Yesterday afternoon, I noticed the first few campers were already on the field and a motorhome was just pulling in. Drive-in movie tonight. :-) Keith R. Stewart London, Ontario E-Mail: keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom From agraham at execulink.com Tue Aug 7 11:43:10 2012 From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham) Date: Tue, 07 Aug 2012 13:43:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 overdrive relay. Message-ID: <502153AE.6060908@execulink.com> Hello List: Trying to sort out my overdrive circuits and suspicious about the o/d relay. It is the original Lucas item - only 57 years old. Can you substitute a generic 30 amp four connector relay for the o/d relay? Would like to pick one up at my local flaps; having modern push on connectors would help matters as well as I wouldn't have to modify the harness. Any advice on this one? Thanks in advance. Angelo Graham From ptegler at verizon.net Tue Aug 7 12:10:30 2012 From: ptegler at verizon.net (ptegler at verizon.net) Date: Tue, 07 Aug 2012 13:10:30 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] TR250/6 t/o bearing sleeve Message-ID: <683618.1929509.1344363030309.JavaMail.root@vznit170134> AS far as I've ever understood it, the pin is simply to stop the whole carrier from spinning right along with the throw out bearing while under load. The bearing is designed to be the 'rotating' load point, not the fingers holding the carrier. ...personally, I add pins (or dent ) when I find none in existence on units I've dug into. Paul Tegler ptegler at verizon.net www.teglerizer.com On 08/07/12, Pete Arakelian wrote: The clutch release bearing rides on a sleeve that has a roll pin in it to stop the sleeve from rotating when the pin hits the pins in the clutch fork. Current sleeves I have looked at have a hole drilled for the roll pin, but there is no corresponding dimple or hole on the other side of the slot to engage the pin. Does anyone see this as a problem? Should there be a dimple or hole across the slot for additional strength? Or is it simply not required? I need to know pretty quick and am on digest so could you please respond to m direct as well? Thanks, Peter ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Aug 7 12:18:07 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2012 11:18:07 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 overdrive relay. In-Reply-To: <502153AE.6060908@execulink.com> References: <502153AE.6060908@execulink.com> Message-ID: <01ad01cd74c8$fefe6ae0$fcfb40a0$@rr.com> > Can you substitute a generic 30 amp four connector relay for the o/d > relay? My experience was that the generic relays (and purpose-made reproductions) would not last long in service, presumably due to the inductive kickback from the OD solenoid. However, adding a snubber diode seemed to solve the problem permanently, and I have been using the same cheap generic relay for many years now with no further problems. Here is an old photo of the relay and diode on my previous TR3A before it got wrecked. The original wiring was later updated, but I am still using that relay and diode today. (The diode is inside the black heat shrink tubing that you can see leading under the relay and over to the mounting screw.) http://goo.gl/HDHjb The diode goes from the output of the relay (to the solenoid) to ground. If your car has been converted to negative ground, the stripe on the diode goes towards the relay terminal. If you are still running positive ground, the stripe goes towards ground. I also added an in-line fuse to the power feed from the ammeter. In addition to protecting the solenoid if the cutout contacts don't open for whatever reason, it will also protect the wires if the battery is connected backwards (causing the diode to conduct) or the diode fails shorted. -- Randall From gdewine at aol.com Tue Aug 7 12:43:30 2012 From: gdewine at aol.com (gdewine at aol.com) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2012 14:43:30 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Dzus fastener versus hood pin Message-ID: <8CF42E3AC82B1F2-600-44400@webmail-m147.sysops.aol.com> I am wanting to use an alternative to the dzus fasteners to hold the hood of my TR3 securely in place. Does anyone a suggestion? Hood pins or the mini Quik-Latch go to http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Quik-Latch-Products-Mini-Quick-Latch-Polished-A luminum,51943.html seem like OK options. I want the hood held in place but do not want an obtrusive fastener.....I am open to suggestions... Gary 1961 Tr3 From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Tue Aug 7 13:35:19 2012 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2012 12:35:19 -0700 Subject: [TR] Dzus fastener versus hood pin In-Reply-To: <8CF42E3AC82B1F2-600-44400@webmail-m147.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CF42E3AC82B1F2-600-44400@webmail-m147.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: On Tue, Aug 7, 2012 at 11:43 AM, wrote: > I want the hood held in place but do not want an obtrusive fastener.....I > am > open to suggestions... > In my opinion -- that is a perfect description of the Dzus fasteners. I've certainly never had one come loose, get stuck or give me any trouble. Geo From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Tue Aug 7 14:07:08 2012 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2012 13:07:08 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Dzus fastener versus hood pin In-Reply-To: <8CF42E3AC82B1F2-600-44400@webmail-m147.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CF42E3AC82B1F2-600-44400@webmail-m147.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <1344370028.95433.YahooMailNeo@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> my dzus work great. a lot smaller than the ones you linked. in fact the ones you linked will not fit down in the valley of the hood as easily as the dzus. its all personal taste after that Frank ________________________________ From: "gdewine at aol.com" To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Tuesday, August 7, 2012 11:43 AM Subject: [TR] Dzus fastener versus hood pin I am wanting to use an alternative to the dzus fasteners to hold the hood of my TR3 securely in place. Does anyone a suggestion? Hood pins or the mini Quik-Latch go to http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Quik-Latch-Products-Mini-Quick-Latch-Polished-A luminum,51943.html seem like OK options. I want the hood held in place but do not want an obtrusive fastener.....I am open to suggestions... Gary 1961 Tr3 ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From allegrorover at mac.com Tue Aug 7 14:07:43 2012 From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio) Date: Tue, 07 Aug 2012 16:07:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] TRF's Uncle Dave In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: They are keeping him an extra day as he hasn't seen a doctor in a couple of years. So far he's doing well, it appears that he overdid it, and no wonder, he was involved with every aspect of summer party plus trying to answer a million questions from guys like me. We all wish him well. Tony Cascio 58 TR3A TS27093L allegrorover at mac.com www.triumphowners.com/1489 From dave at ranteer.com Tue Aug 7 14:02:11 2012 From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2012 15:02:11 -0500 Subject: [TR] Dzus fastener versus hood pin In-Reply-To: <8CF42E3AC82B1F2-600-44400@webmail-m147.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CF42E3AC82B1F2-600-44400@webmail-m147.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: oh please please do not use those hood pins. I have a tr4 which I am undoing those hood pins. they just look awful on a TR. GTO or Chevelle, maybe. but please oh please don't desecrate a TR that way -----Original Message----- From: gdewine at aol.com Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2012 1:43 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Dzus fastener versus hood pin I am wanting to use an alternative to the dzus fasteners to hold the hood of my TR3 securely in place. Does anyone a suggestion? Hood pins or the mini Quik-Latch go to http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Quik-Latch-Products-Mini-Quick-Latch-Polished-A luminum,51943.html seem like OK options. From bkahler1 at gmail.com Tue Aug 7 14:15:33 2012 From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2012 16:15:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] Dzus fastener versus hood pin In-Reply-To: References: <8CF42E3AC82B1F2-600-44400@webmail-m147.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Speaking from experience on my wife's spitfire race car, the studs with hold down pins are a pain to deal with. I would never use them on a car if I didn't have to. Just my $0.02 :) On Tue, Aug 7, 2012 at 4:02 PM, Dave wrote: > oh please please do not use those hood pins. I have a tr4 which I am > undoing those hood pins. they just look awful on a TR. GTO or Chevelle, > maybe. but please oh please don't desecrate a TR that way > > -----Original Message----- From: gdewine at aol.com > Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2012 1:43 PM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] Dzus fastener versus hood pin > > I am wanting to use an alternative to the dzus fasteners to hold the hood > of > my TR3 securely in place. Does anyone a suggestion? Hood pins or the mini > Quik-Latch go to > http://www.speedwaymotors.com/**Quik-Latch-Products-Mini-** > Quick-Latch-Polished-A > luminum,51943.html seem like OK options. > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > options/triumphs/bkahler1@**gmail.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Aug 7 15:37:19 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2012 14:37:19 -0700 Subject: [TR] Dzus fastener versus hood pin In-Reply-To: <8CF42E3AC82B1F2-600-44400@webmail-m147.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CF42E3AC82B1F2-600-44400@webmail-m147.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <01e501cd74e4$d2c89a60$7859cf20$@rr.com> > I want the hood held in place but do not want an obtrusive > fastener..... Hood pins would seem to me to be the definition of "obtrusive" as both the pin and the clip stick up for anyone to see. Some may like the look, but certainly no one, not even those who ask "Izzat a MG?", will fail to recognize that they don't belong there. > I am > open to suggestions... The original Dzus buttons, properly adjusted and maintained (maintenance being mostly doing something if they aren't tight enough), work very well IMO. My previous TR3A had the pins when I got it, and putting it back to the original configuration was one of the very first things I did. I covered over 200,000 miles with that car, and never had a problem beyond having to occasionally readjust or replace the hood buffers (which need to hold tension against the Dzus buttons). -- Randall From greg at gelhar.com Tue Aug 7 18:38:37 2012 From: greg at gelhar.com (Greg Gelhar) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2012 19:38:37 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 overdrive relay. References: <502153AE.6060908@execulink.com> Message-ID: YES, a modern relay will work as good, or better, than the Lucas unit. If you take the cover off the Lucas relay, the contact points only look to be good for about 5 amps. There might be one caution. Some cube relays have a diode in parallel with the coil. That makes the coil polarity sensitive. Greg G. Osseo, MN ----- Original Message ----- From: "Angelo Graham" To: Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2012 12:43 PM Subject: [TR] TR2/3 overdrive relay. > Hello List: > Trying to sort out my overdrive circuits and suspicious about the o/d > relay. It is the original Lucas item - only 57 years old. > Can you substitute a generic 30 amp four connector relay for the o/d > relay? > Would like to pick one up at my local flaps; having modern push on > connectors would help matters as well as I wouldn't have to modify the > harness. > Any advice on this one? > Thanks in advance. > Angelo Graham > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/greg at gelhar.com From tr3a.60 at gmail.com Tue Aug 7 19:04:36 2012 From: tr3a.60 at gmail.com (John Wise) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2012 21:04:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] Dzus fastener versus hood pin In-Reply-To: <8CF42E3AC82B1F2-600-44400@webmail-m147.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CF42E3AC82B1F2-600-44400@webmail-m147.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <135F944C-D191-4072-B4E9-984F182CEFEE@gmail.com> The fighter that I flew in the USAF used dzus fasteners everywhere. Every time I see them on my TR, it reminds me of those good old days of going fast & pulling a lot of Gs. John On 7 Aug, 2012, at 2:43 PM, gdewine at aol.com wrote: > I am wanting to use an alternative to the dzus fasteners to hold the hood of > my TR3 securely in place. Does anyone a suggestion? Hood pins or the mini > Quik-Latch go to > http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Quik-Latch-Products-Mini-Quick-Latch-Polished-A > luminum,51943.html seem like OK options. > > > I want the hood held in place but do not want an obtrusive fastener.....I am > open to suggestions... > > Gary > 1961 Tr3 > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3a.60 at gmail.com From tom628 at verizon.net Tue Aug 7 20:44:48 2012 From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note) Date: Tue, 07 Aug 2012 22:44:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] Dzus fastener versus hood pin References: <8CF42E3AC82B1F2-600-44400@webmail-m147.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <40073730B5DA4DE0888D466C821B20E8@Toms> I've seen some smaller 1/4 turn fasteners than Dzus, and my buddy used them on his race car. It's an aircraft fastener, "Camlok"; probably sold by Aircrafr Spruce, or maybe Mc Master-carr. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2012 2:43 PM Subject: [TR] Dzus fastener versus hood pin >I am wanting to use an alternative to the dzus fasteners to hold the hood >of > my TR3 securely in place. Does anyone a suggestion? Hood pins or the mini > Quik-Latch go to > http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Quik-Latch-Products-Mini-Quick-Latch-Polished-A > luminum,51943.html seem like OK options. > > > I want the hood held in place but do not want an obtrusive fastener.....I > am > open to suggestions... > > Gary > 1961 Tr3 > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tom628 at verizon.net From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Aug 7 23:21:07 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2012 22:21:07 -0700 Subject: [TR] Dzus fastener versus hood pin In-Reply-To: <40073730B5DA4DE0888D466C821B20E8@Toms> References: <8CF42E3AC82B1F2-600-44400@webmail-m147.sysops.aol.com> <40073730B5DA4DE0888D466C821B20E8@Toms> Message-ID: <181401cd7525$9d8f0cd0$0601a8c0@randall> > I've seen some smaller 1/4 turn fasteners than Dzus, and my > buddy used them > on his race car. Dzus buttons also come in smaller diameters than those used on TR3s. AS has them down to 3/16" diameter. http://goo.gl/c2d6H -- Randall From lherault at bu.edu Wed Aug 8 07:31:44 2012 From: lherault at bu.edu (Ron L'Herault) Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2012 09:31:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] hood hold down Message-ID: <008201cd756a$271f7a90$755e6fb0$@bu.edu> If you want the latches less obtrusive, why not paint/powder coat the Dzus fasteners in body color? Ron L From wbeech at flash.net Wed Aug 8 08:01:32 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2012 09:01:32 -0500 Subject: [TR] hood hold down In-Reply-To: <008201cd756a$271f7a90$755e6fb0$@bu.edu> References: <008201cd756a$271f7a90$755e6fb0$@bu.edu> Message-ID: <58EF6D0220214D89AB3C24597185127C@bboffice> Or, convert back to the TR2 bonnet latch system? Bill B -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ron L'Herault Sent: Wednesday, August 08, 2012 8:32 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] hood hold down If you want the latches less obtrusive, why not paint/powder coat the Dzus fasteners in body color? Ron L ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From jdabars at att.net Wed Aug 8 10:35:56 2012 From: jdabars at att.net (Janis Dabars) Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2012 09:35:56 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Uncle Dave at TRF picnic, condition? Message-ID: <1344443756.18058.YahooMailRC@web185001.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Been some mention about Uncle , Perfesser DAVE of TRF, after/during the summer picnic--in a few recent posts. WHAT IS GOING ON? pleasse inform the rest of the posters/readers who are in the dark about Daves' condition, if you know the honest skinney. How about Charles, Albert OR Tomy Beaver of Indy? PLEASE RSVP ASAP. Johny with meny broken limbs in Indianapolis, Indiana, U.S.A. RACING CAPITAL OF THE WORLD From allegrorover at mac.com Wed Aug 8 12:21:41 2012 From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio) Date: Wed, 08 Aug 2012 14:21:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] Uncle Dave at TRF picnic, condition? In-Reply-To: <1344443756.18058.YahooMailRC@web185001.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <1344443756.18058.YahooMailRC@web185001.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: OK here is the scoop. Dave as you all know works the summer party in almost every area from greeting campers to organizing all sorts of things, including selling parts and answering questions for the masses. He worked the autocross and it was pretty hot out there, when he returned to TRF that same day and before the dinner, collapsed and was taken to the hospital by the paramedics. There he remained until yesterday I believe, to get fully checked out, heat exhaustion was the diagnosis and he is back to work today so I am told. I haven't spoken to him yet today but I will. Some of this info was passed to me from his daughter so it's pretty accurate. We all hope he is in great health and feels much better. Tony Cascio 58 TR3A TS27093L allegrorover at mac.com www.triumphowners.com/1489 From keithstewart at execulink.com Wed Aug 8 14:10:48 2012 From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart) Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2012 16:10:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] Uncle Dave at TRF picnic, condition? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5A257F9B-FEE9-42E9-80F7-F6DA41E5B2FD@execulink.com> On Wed, 8 Aug 2012 09:35:56, Janis Dabars wrote: > Been some mention about Uncle , Perfesser DAVE > of TRF, after/during the summer > picnic--in a few recent posts. WHAT IS GOING > ON? pleasse inform the rest of > the posters/readers who are in the dark about > Daves' condition, if you know > the honest skinney. How about Charles, Albert OR > Tomy Beaver of Indy? Shortly after we sat down under the tents for dinner, an ambulance arrived and departed a while later with Dave in tow. It was a combination of heat exhaustion and fatigue. They pumped him full of fluids at the hospital and because he had not seen a doctor in a few years, they kept him in the hospital for another day or so. He was by TRF yesterday and apparently he was "looking and feeling much better" to quote Will Jones. Keith R. Stewart London, Ontario E-Mail: keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom From trmarty at hotmail.com Wed Aug 8 15:00:16 2012 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2012 17:00:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] TRF S.P. Results Message-ID: FYI, the results from the Summer Party along with pictures are already up on the TRF web site. Marty From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Wed Aug 8 15:45:45 2012 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2012 14:45:45 -0700 Subject: [TR] Spotted: Light Blue TR3A Bound for TX Message-ID: Posted on the BCF but also here in case the owner in among y'all. Spotted this light blue TR3A on a car hauler here in Tucson. Was in the street whilst another car was unloaded, was back on the truck by the time I returned with a camera. Has California black plates, the truck driver said it's going to Texas. http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/TR3/BlueTR3A1.jpg http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/TR3/BlueTR3A2.jpg Looked to be a very nice car, albeit very dirty -- the '60 Chevy above it is a 'leaker'. I stuck my TR3A 'business' card in among the parts boxes on the front seat so maybe I'll make contact with the new owner one day. Geo From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Wed Aug 8 16:07:46 2012 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2012 15:07:46 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TRF S.P. Results In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1344463666.27885.YahooMailNeo@web120201.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> ahhhhh i love and hate seeing pictures of the summer party. i used to live and work in Indiana PA. at the time i had small children and could not afford to get into the hobby. but i always turned out to look and wish. it is one of the nicest places i have lived. of course the Coventry inn was a construction site back then. is Culpeppers still open a few doors down? they used to serve the coldest beverages and white Pizza. im heavily invested there. ill make it back with car one of these years Frank ________________________________ From: marty sukey To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" Sent: Wednesday, August 8, 2012 2:00 PM Subject: [TR] TRF S.P. Results FYI, the results from the Summer Party along with pictures are already up on the TRF web site. Marty ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From timipurdy at citlink.net Wed Aug 8 16:12:55 2012 From: timipurdy at citlink.net (Tim Purdy) Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2012 15:12:55 -0700 Subject: [TR] Greyhound Shipping Message-ID: While many in the past have expressed that Greyhound was one of the most economical ways to ship Triumph items long distance, I thought I pass along with my first time nightmare of doing this. On July 24 I sent $259 including shipping, via Paypal, to Donato Motors in Logansport, Indiana for a TR4 bonnet and hinges. Unfortunately, the bonnet just sat there for another three days, and I had to eventually pay another $100 to have someone take the bonnet to Greyhound to ship it. Good news at first, since I was informed it only took three days from Indiana to Reno, Nevada. Time has been a critical element, since my Triumph is my daily driver and only car, but was disabled when it was ran into. Lo, and behold when I called Greyhound, they basically said at least a minimum of ten days. More than ten days have passed and no sign of it. Greyhound told me they have no idea where it maybe, but will put a tracer on it, but that will take a week. So I just want to alert others that one should examine multiple options on shipping, as I wish I had did. From jdabars at att.net Wed Aug 8 19:55:51 2012 From: jdabars at att.net (Janis Dabars) Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2012 18:55:51 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] www.youtube.com/watch?v=lt7-mau780 Message-ID: <1344477351.37887.YahooMailRC@web185006.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Click on the previous(this subject ) to hopefuly , see/hear uncle Daves favorite tune, click on it to activate(hopefuly). Thanks to all that reported HIS condition. John in Indianapolis with meny limb fractures and 4 and a half month in intensivecare/rehab--had to relearn how to walk. I tell you one thing---IWILL BE at the summer picnic though the wife Maija will have to drive me there. Hope the forward site goes through and becomes vailable, Don't yell & cuss if it does not. Then MEA CULPA From trmarty at hotmail.com Wed Aug 8 20:14:00 2012 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2012 22:14:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] TRF S.P. Results In-Reply-To: <1344463666.27885.YahooMailNeo@web120201.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: , <1344463666.27885.YahooMailNeo@web120201.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Yup, Culpeppers is still alive and well. Stromboli and cold beer is a bit of a tradition for us when we go to the S.P. every year. Marty ________________________________ > Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2012 15:07:46 -0700 > From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com > Subject: Re: [TR] TRF S.P. Results > To: trmarty at hotmail.com; triumphs at autox.team.net > > ahhhhh > i love and hate seeing pictures of the summer party. > i used to live and work in Indiana PA. at the time i had small children > and could not afford to get into the hobby. but i always turned out to > look and wish. > it is one of the nicest places i have lived. > of course the Coventry inn was a construction site back then. > is Culpeppers still open a few doors down? they used to serve the > coldest beverages and white Pizza. im heavily invested there. > ill make it back with car one of these years > > Frank > > From: marty sukey > To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" > Sent: Wednesday, August 8, 2012 2:00 PM > Subject: [TR] TRF S.P. Results > > FYI, the results from the Summer Party along with pictures are already up on > the TRF web site. > > Marty > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From spamiam at comcast.net Thu Aug 9 07:03:17 2012 From: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2012 13:03:17 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] current draw of TR4A blower and wiper Message-ID: <2001253462.337754.1344517397328.JavaMail.root@sz0135a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Does anyone know the current draw for the stock, good condition, heater blower and wiper motors in the TR2-4A cars? -Tony From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Thu Aug 9 08:48:47 2012 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2012 07:48:47 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TRF S.P. Results In-Reply-To: References: , <1344463666.27885.YahooMailNeo@web120201.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1344523727.86009.YahooMailNeo@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> sigh ! ________________________________ From: marty sukey To: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com; "triumphs at autox.team.net" Sent: Wednesday, August 8, 2012 7:14 PM Subject: RE: [TR] TRF S.P. Results Yup, Culpeppers is still alive and well. Stromboli and cold beer is a bit of a tradition for us when we go to the S.P. every year. Marty ________________________________ > Date: Wed, 8 Aug 2012 15:07:46 -0700 > From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com > Subject: Re: [TR] TRF S.P. Results > To: trmarty at hotmail.com; triumphs at autox.team.net > > ahhhhh > i love and hate seeing pictures of the summer party. > i used to live and work in Indiana PA. at the time i had small children > and could not afford to get into the hobby. but i always turned out to > look and wish. > it is one of the nicest places i have lived. > of course the Coventry inn was a construction site back then. > is Culpeppers still open a few doors down? they used to serve the > coldest beverages and white Pizza. im heavily invested there. > ill make it back with car one of these years > > Frank > > From: marty sukey > To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" > Sent: Wednesday, August 8, 2012 2:00 PM > Subject: [TR] TRF S.P. Results > > FYI, the results from the Summer Party along with pictures are already up on > the TRF web site. > > Marty > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com > > From keithstewart at execulink.com Thu Aug 9 13:25:25 2012 From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart) Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2012 15:25:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] TRF S.P. Results In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On Wed, 8 Aug 2012, at 3:07 PM, Frank Fisher wrote: > > is Culpeppers still open a few doors down? they used to serve the > coldest beverages and white Pizza. im heavily invested there. > ill make it back > with car one of these years Yes, it is. Based on your description of when you were last there, it is greatly expanded - having taken over the business next door. Keith R. Stewart London, Ontario E-Mail: keithstewartATexeculinkDOTcom From JGILLIS at tcd.ie Thu Aug 9 14:44:42 2012 From: JGILLIS at tcd.ie (John Gillis) Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2012 21:44:42 +0100 Subject: [TR] TR2 front wheels Message-ID: Hi all, still enjoying motoring on the now driving 15 year project, shake down is going well with little tweaks here and there. The biggest issue is heavy (very) slow speed steering. I had the tracking set-up on old Dunlop gauges, but still feels a little odd and also a front end "slow wobble" at low speeds. I put a spirit level against the wheels/tyres, one of them leans out at the top by just under 1/2 inch, while the other is parallel top to bottom. Any ideas??? I was wondering because I built up the suspension, with poly bushes etc, while there was no body or engine on the chassis, could tis be an issue, all ideas welcome, especially what I should look for. Regards John (still smiling) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Aug 9 14:56:33 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2012 13:56:33 -0700 Subject: [TR] current draw of TR4A blower and wiper In-Reply-To: <2001253462.337754.1344517397328.JavaMail.root@sz0135a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <2001253462.337754.1344517397328.JavaMail.root@sz0135a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <007201cd7671$75c529d0$614f7d70$@rr.com> > Does anyone know the current draw for the stock, good condition, heater > blower and wiper motors in the TR2-4A cars? Best I can recall, my stock TR3 heater fan drew about 4 amps at 12.0 volts. I think it was my rewound version that drew closer to 7 amps. But that was a long time ago (cue Bob Dylan "When blackness was a virtue and the road was full of mud.") so possibly not worth much. TR4 heater of course is completely different than the TR3, and I've never tried to measure one of those. Don't forget, the current will depend heavily on load. Startup or bad bearings will likely make it much higher. Running without the fan blades will make it lower (and may be a bad idea if the motor is series-wound). -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Aug 9 15:05:32 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 9 Aug 2012 14:05:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR2 front wheels In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <007601cd7672$b6f34d00$24d9e700$@rr.com> > I put a spirit level against the wheels/tyres, one of them leans out at > the > top by just under 1/2 inch, while the other is parallel top to bottom. > Any > ideas??? 1/2" is about right, the other side is wrong. You might try checking the angle of the spring towers if you can, otherwise I don't know what to suggest. I'm assuming you examined the frame carefully while the body was off and would have spotted any cracks or sharp bends (especially around the lower suspension pivot pins), but it might be tweaked that much without being obvious. FWIW, twice now I've had a lower pivot that was ripped entirely loose from the frame, but practically impossible to spot with the car assembled. First time, even the alignment shop didn't spot it. Second time (years later, different car), I found it while stripping the wreck for parts. Most likely it got broken in the accident, but I had driven the car after that (to the body shop & back). -- Randall From auprichard at uprichard.net Fri Aug 10 06:01:29 2012 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2012 08:01:29 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR2 front wheels In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <005601cd76ef$e1509b70$a3f1d250$@uprichard.net> John: some after-market ball joints have the hole for the split pin too far out, with the result that one may not tighten the ball joint enough - but that would lead to positive camber, not negative. Don't know what to suggest other than to check the two sides and make sure they are the same. Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Gillis Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2012 4:45 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR2 front wheels Hi all, still enjoying motoring on the now driving 15 year project, shake down is going well with little tweaks here and there. The biggest issue is heavy (very) slow speed steering. I had the tracking set-up on old Dunlop gauges, but still feels a little odd and also a front end "slow wobble" at low speeds. I put a spirit level against the wheels/tyres, one of them leans out at the top by just under 1/2 inch, while the other is parallel top to bottom. Any ideas??? I was wondering because I built up the suspension, with poly bushes etc, while there was no body or engine on the chassis, could tis be an issue, all ideas welcome, especially what I should look for. Regards John (still smiling) ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From yellowtr at adelphia.net Fri Aug 10 12:42:31 2012 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2012 14:42:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Shift knob restoration Message-ID: <50255617.4020409@adelphia.net> Hello, I have had an original TR3 shift knob that was cracked and showing its age. But I liked the feel of the narrow rubber knob than the after market wooden knobs. So I wanted to restore it to its original condition. I first tried coating it with clear silicone caulking but it soon started to peal and look worse than the original dried out knob. So I tried a product called Plasti Dip. It is used to coat tool handles for better grip. First I sanded the old knob to smooth it out. Then I cleaned it with lacquer thinner to remove all grease etc. Then I dipped it into the can of dip and then stood it up on a stick in a vise for 1 hour. Repeated for a final coat and I have to say it looks like brand new! Feels great in the hand as I am sure the original ones did way back when. A can of this dip was about 6.75 at Lowes. Bob From wbeech at flash.net Fri Aug 10 13:33:44 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2012 14:33:44 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Shift knob restoration In-Reply-To: <50255617.4020409@adelphia.net> References: <50255617.4020409@adelphia.net> Message-ID: Great restoration, or you could spend $20 at TRF(p/n 19045) and buy a new one/NFI. I didn't have an original to restore but I really like the small black rubber one as it is lower and the top my hand doesn't scrape the bottom of the dash as it did with the AMCO walnut knob. Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby" '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" www.triumphowners.com/1566 '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" "If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow" M.Andretti -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Labuz Sent: Friday, August 10, 2012 1:43 PM To: Triumphs List Subject: [TR] TR3 Shift knob restoration Hello, I have had an original TR3 shift knob that was cracked and showing its age. But I liked the feel of the narrow rubber knob than the after market wooden knobs. So I wanted to restore it to its original condition. I first tried coating it with clear silicone caulking but it soon started to peal and look worse than the original dried out knob. So I tried a product called Plasti Dip. It is used to coat tool handles for better grip. First I sanded the old knob to smooth it out. Then I cleaned it with lacquer thinner to remove all grease etc. Then I dipped it into the can of dip and then stood it up on a stick in a vise for 1 hour. Repeated for a final coat and I have to say it looks like brand new! Feels great in the hand as I am sure the original ones did way back when. A can of this dip was about 6.75 at Lowes. Bob ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From wbeech at flash.net Fri Aug 10 13:52:10 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2012 14:52:10 -0500 Subject: [TR] VTR 2012 Events Message-ID: <667F11E66D674759AB6E2ED2457F2567@bboffice> Forgive my ignorance but I have never been able to attend a VTR event, just local car shows. I am half way through the registration process and being asked what events I want to participate in. I presume the "Modified" events are not for me as my car is stock, but what are all the different Concours Stock/Preservation/Senior class requirements? I know what an Autocross is, but what is a TSD Rallye, Gimmick Rallye and Funkhana? Maybe someone can point me to a link that will help me to understand all this, really looking forward to a fun week. Thx, Bill Driving to VTR Bill Beecher '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby" '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" www.triumphowners.com/1566 '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" "If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow" M.Andretti From yellowtr at adelphia.net Fri Aug 10 14:04:56 2012 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2012 16:04:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Shift knob restoration In-Reply-To: References: <50255617.4020409@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <50256968.7030401@adelphia.net> Bill, Is the TRF model a soft rubber knob like the original? The photos make it look like it is plastic or bakelite. Bob On 08/10/2012 03:33 PM, Wbeech wrote: > Great restoration, or you could spend $20 at TRF(p/n 19045) and buy a new > one/NFI. > > I didn't have an original to restore but I really like the small black > rubber one as it is lower and the top my hand doesn't scrape the bottom of > the dash as it did with the AMCO walnut knob. > > Bill > > Bill Beecher > '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby" > '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" > www.triumphowners.com/1566 > '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" > "If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow" > M.Andretti > > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Labuz > Sent: Friday, August 10, 2012 1:43 PM > To: Triumphs List > Subject: [TR] TR3 Shift knob restoration > > Hello, > > I have had an original TR3 shift knob that was cracked and showing its age. > But I liked the feel of the narrow rubber knob than the after market wooden > knobs. > > So I wanted to restore it to its original condition. > > I first tried coating it with clear silicone caulking but it soon started to > peal and look worse than the original dried out knob. > > So I tried a product called Plasti Dip. It is used to coat tool handles for > better grip. > > First I sanded the old knob to smooth it out. Then I cleaned it with lacquer > thinner to remove all grease etc. > > Then I dipped it into the can of dip and then stood it up on a stick in a > vise for 1 hour. Repeated for a final coat and I have to say it looks like > brand new! > > Feels great in the hand as I am sure the original ones did way back when. > > A can of this dip was about 6.75 at Lowes. From eoot at citlink.net Fri Aug 10 14:37:52 2012 From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot) Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2012 16:37:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Shift knob restoration References: <50255617.4020409@adelphia.net> <50256968.7030401@adelphia.net> Message-ID: It's rubber. An excellent reproduction of original. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Labuz" To: "Wbeech" ; "Triumphs List" Sent: Friday, August 10, 2012 4:04 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Shift knob restoration > Bill, > > Is the TRF model a soft rubber knob like the original? The photos make it > look like it is plastic or bakelite. > > Bob > > On 08/10/2012 03:33 PM, Wbeech wrote: >> Great restoration, or you could spend $20 at TRF(p/n 19045) and buy a new >> one/NFI. >> >> I didn't have an original to restore but I really like the small black >> rubber one as it is lower and the top my hand doesn't scrape the bottom >> of >> the dash as it did with the AMCO walnut knob. >> >> Bill >> >> Bill Beecher >> '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby" >> '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" >> www.triumphowners.com/1566 >> '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" >> "If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too >> slow" >> M.Andretti >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net >> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Labuz >> Sent: Friday, August 10, 2012 1:43 PM >> To: Triumphs List >> Subject: [TR] TR3 Shift knob restoration >> >> Hello, >> >> I have had an original TR3 shift knob that was cracked and showing its >> age. >> But I liked the feel of the narrow rubber knob than the after market >> wooden >> knobs. >> >> So I wanted to restore it to its original condition. >> >> I first tried coating it with clear silicone caulking but it soon started >> to >> peal and look worse than the original dried out knob. >> >> So I tried a product called Plasti Dip. It is used to coat tool handles >> for >> better grip. >> >> First I sanded the old knob to smooth it out. Then I cleaned it with >> lacquer >> thinner to remove all grease etc. >> >> Then I dipped it into the can of dip and then stood it up on a stick in a >> vise for 1 hour. Repeated for a final coat and I have to say it looks >> like >> brand new! >> >> Feels great in the hand as I am sure the original ones did way back when. >> >> A can of this dip was about 6.75 at Lowes. > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/eoot at citlink.net From don.hiscock at gmail.com Fri Aug 10 15:24:41 2012 From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2012 17:24:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Shift knob restoration In-Reply-To: References: <50255617.4020409@adelphia.net> <50256968.7030401@adelphia.net> Message-ID: I have what I believe is one of the original TR knobs as well as the modern rubber version. The two are generally the same, but different in almost every detail. The profile of the taper is "steeper" -- more conical -- on the modern knob. The size and typeface for the shift pattern is different, too. The modern one is definitely a harder rubber. The original looks more like some composition of a filler and a rubbery binder, possibly painted black. I've had it for 30 plus years, given to me by one of the founders of what's now the TRA. There may be early and late versions of the original TR2-3B knobs -- smarter folk than I will have to chime in here. My original sits on the shelves in my shop. The modern is on the car. It's plenty good enough to use, and fits a lot better than an AMCO knob. Don 1962 TR3B TSF202L On 8/10/12, Ed Oot wrote: > It's rubber. An excellent reproduction of original. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Bob Labuz" > To: "Wbeech" ; "Triumphs List" > Sent: Friday, August 10, 2012 4:04 PM > Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Shift knob restoration > > >> Bill, >> >> Is the TRF model a soft rubber knob like the original? The photos make it >> >> look like it is plastic or bakelite. >> >> Bob >> >> On 08/10/2012 03:33 PM, Wbeech wrote: >>> Great restoration, or you could spend $20 at TRF(p/n 19045) and buy a >>> new >>> one/NFI. >>> >>> I didn't have an original to restore but I really like the small black >>> rubber one as it is lower and the top my hand doesn't scrape the bottom >>> of >>> the dash as it did with the AMCO walnut knob. >>> >>> Bill >>> >>> Bill Beecher >>> '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby" >>> '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" >>> www.triumphowners.com/1566 >>> '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" >>> "If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too >>> slow" >>> M.Andretti >>> >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net >>> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Labuz >>> Sent: Friday, August 10, 2012 1:43 PM >>> To: Triumphs List >>> Subject: [TR] TR3 Shift knob restoration >>> >>> Hello, >>> >>> I have had an original TR3 shift knob that was cracked and showing its >>> age. >>> But I liked the feel of the narrow rubber knob than the after market >>> wooden >>> knobs. >>> >>> So I wanted to restore it to its original condition. >>> >>> I first tried coating it with clear silicone caulking but it soon started >>> >>> to >>> peal and look worse than the original dried out knob. >>> >>> So I tried a product called Plasti Dip. It is used to coat tool handles >>> for >>> better grip. >>> >>> First I sanded the old knob to smooth it out. Then I cleaned it with >>> lacquer >>> thinner to remove all grease etc. >>> >>> Then I dipped it into the can of dip and then stood it up on a stick in >>> a >>> vise for 1 hour. Repeated for a final coat and I have to say it looks >>> like >>> brand new! >>> >>> Feels great in the hand as I am sure the original ones did way back >>> when. >>> >>> A can of this dip was about 6.75 at Lowes. >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/eoot at citlink.net > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Aug 10 15:37:46 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (tr3driver at ca.rr.com) Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2012 17:37:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] VTR 2012 Events In-Reply-To: <667F11E66D674759AB6E2ED2457F2567@bboffice> Message-ID: <20120810213747.UM2I1.57751.root@cdptpa-web19-z01> > I presume the "Modified" events are not for me as my car is stock, but what > are all the different Concours Stock/Preservation/Senior class requirements? This info should be on the VTR site somewhere, but I didn't see it. Basically "Preservation" and "Senior" are for previous winners, so you won't be eligible for those. "Concours" cars get judged against a list of "how it should be", while I believe there is also a "Participants Choice" category where other owners get to vote for their favorite car regardless of how "correct" it is. > I know what an Autocross is, but what is a TSD Rallye, Gimmick Rallye and > Funkhana? "TSD" is "Time, Speed, Distance", a "traditional" road rally where you are judged on how well you follow directions. For example, you might be directed to drive a stretch of road at 40 mph, and judged on how closely you held 40 mph (by checking how long it took you to drive the distance). A "Gimmick" rally is more or less similar, but typically adds tricky questions and/or tests of your powers of observation. For example, the directions might say to turn left at the prancing pony, where the image of a horse is on anything from a mail box to a movie marquee. Or it might be a local pub called "The Prancing Pony". Or it might be a horse show at the fairgrounds, you never quite know until you see it. And there may be questions like "How many driveways were on your left?" or "How many miles to Tulare?". Both types of rally are typically run on public roads, not closed courses, so of course you are also responsible for driving safely, following all traffic laws, etc. A Funkhana is a different kind of event, with more emphasis on precision low speed control of the car. Typically run in a closed parking lot, one car at a time. A favorite with those who are reluctant to drive their cars on the open road; but qualifies as a "driving event". (Completion of one driving event is required to be eligible to win the car show.) Generally there will be tasks for your passenger to perform as well, like holding a cup of water, guiding you while you drive blindfolded, or tossing a ring onto a bottle. All three of these events are much easier if you have a navigator. If you don't already have one, it pays to ask around early and see if you can line someone up. You can even navigate for someone else in return for them navigating for you, if you want to. Good way to make new friends, or get better acquainted with people you already know. --- Randall From Loumetelko at aol.com Fri Aug 10 18:24:00 2012 From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com) Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2012 20:24:00 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] VTR 2012 Events Message-ID: <4bc3d.6c59c02f.3d57001f@aol.com> If you as the driver have even a hint of competitive nature then I would suggest you stay away from all of the three listed driving events. I have seen many normally happy couples return in a decidedly sour mood because the dum dum navigator missed a turn, misread the "simple" directions, or worse yet wants to babble on about the scenery, weather, Aunt Paula's problems, etc. etc. rather than pay attention. Lou Metelko Auburn, Indiana From wbeech at flash.net Fri Aug 10 19:13:00 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2012 20:13:00 -0500 Subject: [TR] VTR 2012 Events In-Reply-To: <4bc3d.6c59c02f.3d57001f@aol.com> References: <4bc3d.6c59c02f.3d57001f@aol.com> Message-ID: Oh, she's going shopping. I was thinking maybe I could team up with someone there as a single. B -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Loumetelko at aol.com Sent: Friday, August 10, 2012 7:24 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] VTR 2012 Events If you as the driver have even a hint of competitive nature then I would suggest you stay away from all of the three listed driving events. I have seen many normally happy couples return in a decidedly sour mood because the dum dum navigator missed a turn, misread the "simple" directions, or worse yet wants to babble on about the scenery, weather, Aunt Paula's problems, etc. etc. rather than pay attention. Lou Metelko Auburn, Indiana ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From TR250Driver at aol.com Sat Aug 11 08:41:31 2012 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2012 10:41:31 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] VTR 2012 Events Message-ID: <6223.67713ebf.3d57c91b@aol.com> Bill, Go to the VTR website, _www.vtr.org_ (http://www.vtr.org) , and under the "Features" section click on "competition rules" where you will find the VTR Concours Rules which have descriptions of the various classes for the VTR judged Concours. Hope This Helps, Darrell In a message dated 8/10/2012 3:57:24 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, wbeech at flash.net writes: I presume the "Modified" events are not for me as my car is stock, but what are all the different Concours Stock/Preservation/Senior class requirements? From adrianjones747 at earthlink.net Sat Aug 11 09:09:13 2012 From: adrianjones747 at earthlink.net (Adrian Jones) Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2012 11:09:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Shift knob restoration Message-ID: <000001cd77d3$446dbe20$cd493a60$@net> I also prefer the original, the walnut aftermarket look a bit gaudy, IMHO. My original however doesn't fit because it is a TR4 gearbox. Did they really change the threads or am I a klutz? Cheers! Adrian From ghaynestr4 at aol.com Sat Aug 11 09:10:47 2012 From: ghaynestr4 at aol.com (George Haynes) Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2012 11:10:47 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 Clutch Hydraulics In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CF45EA9ECE87AE-1390-56F89@webmail-d039.sysops.aol.com> Listers, A friend has a 1970 TR6 in which the clutch pedal requires an excessive amount of force to disengage the clutch. Considerably more force than other TR6's I have driven and more than my TR4A. We installed a new, stock pressure plate last winter. Could hydraulics be a fault? The early 1970 took a Master cylinder bore of .75", while later 1970's and newer took a .70" bore. Slave cylinder diameters are apparently all the same. Assuming he has an early car, would his problem be improved with use of a later, smaller bore MC? It's not fun driving his car. Could something be binding mechanically? The slave pushrod is in the center hole. Thanks for any insight and advice. George Haynes From wbeech at flash.net Sat Aug 11 09:52:45 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2012 10:52:45 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Shift knob restoration In-Reply-To: <000001cd77d3$446dbe20$cd493a60$@net> References: <000001cd77d3$446dbe20$cd493a60$@net> Message-ID: My knobs fit both the 3A & 3B. Maybe they used a different stalk on the TR4's? Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby" '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" www.triumphowners.com/1566 '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" "If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow" M.Andretti -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Adrian Jones Sent: Saturday, August 11, 2012 10:09 AM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Shift knob restoration I also prefer the original, the walnut aftermarket look a bit gaudy, IMHO. My original however doesn't fit because it is a TR4 gearbox. Did they really change the threads or am I a klutz? Cheers! Adrian ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk Sat Aug 11 10:13:48 2012 From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2012 17:13:48 +0100 (BST) Subject: [TR] TR3 Shift knob restoration In-Reply-To: References: <000001cd77d3$446dbe20$cd493a60$@net> Message-ID: <1344701628.11906.YahooMailNeo@web29406.mail.ird.yahoo.com> Could have been round about the time that Standard-Triumph found itself buying paint by the litre and upholstery by the meter, so decided to use threads that were a halfway house between metric and unified - with the result that nothing fitted as heretofore? :) Jonmac ________________________________ From fogbro1 at comcast.net Sat Aug 11 10:22:48 2012 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2012 16:22:48 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3 Shift knob restoration In-Reply-To: <1344701628.11906.YahooMailNeo@web29406.mail.ird.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1506036868.449482.1344702168307.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> List, B Every TR3, including A and B, that I've ever seen had a straight shift lever with extra fine threads. Every TR4 had a shift lever with a bend in it, and coarse threads. The levers are interchangeable up to the time Triumph elected to fore go the bolt that passes through the casting and the shift lever. B Ed Woods From staffel at comcast.net Sat Aug 11 10:48:10 2012 From: staffel at comcast.net (staffel at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2012 09:48:10 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR knob restoration Message-ID: <1952529130.8059.1344703690075.JavaMail.seven@ap0.p0.sjc.7sys.net> /local/mailman/lynxXXXXW9Lyv0: Permission denied From wbeech at flash.net Sat Aug 11 11:40:38 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2012 12:40:38 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Shift knob restoration In-Reply-To: <1506036868.449482.1344702168307.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1506036868.449482.1344702168307.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <473C59D8-A662-4F1E-A3E1-22C1856F1C19@flash.net> Yep, both of mine are straight. Sent from mobile Bill On Aug 11, 2012, at 11:22 AM, fogbro1 at comcast.net wrote: > List, > > B > > Every TR3, including A and B, that I've ever seen had a straight shift lever > with extra fine threads. Every TR4 had a shift lever with a bend in it, and > coarse threads. The levers are interchangeable up to the time Triumph elected > to fore go the bolt that passes through the casting and the shift lever. > > B > > Ed Woods > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From tjwakeman at gmail.com Sat Aug 11 11:42:56 2012 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2012 10:42:56 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Shift knob restoration In-Reply-To: References: <000001cd77d3$446dbe20$cd493a60$@net> Message-ID: <502699A0.8040308@gmail.com> On 8/11/12 8:52 AM, Wbeech wrote: > My knobs fit both the 3A & 3B. Maybe they used a different stalk on the > TR4's? > Yep. That's why I kept my TR3 shift lever when I swapped my TR3 over to a TR4 overdrive gearbox. No clearance issues. The TR3 lever fits a TR4 box. TeriAnn From don.hiscock at gmail.com Sat Aug 11 11:49:15 2012 From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2012 13:49:15 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Shift knob restoration In-Reply-To: <502699A0.8040308@gmail.com> References: <000001cd77d3$446dbe20$cd493a60$@net> <502699A0.8040308@gmail.com> Message-ID: ... and a typical TR3B -- all of them for all I know, and certainly my April 1962 TSF -- had a "rationalized" (TR4) gearbox right from the start. This was the same full-synchro box that debuted a few months earlier in the TR4, but with a one-piece TR3-style shift lever. Don On 8/11/12, TeriAnn J. Wakeman wrote: > On 8/11/12 8:52 AM, Wbeech wrote: >> My knobs fit both the 3A & 3B. Maybe they used a different stalk on the >> TR4's? >> > Yep. That's why I kept my TR3 shift lever when I swapped my TR3 over to > a TR4 overdrive gearbox. No clearance issues. The TR3 lever fits a TR4 > box. > > TeriAnn > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Sat Aug 11 12:57:13 2012 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2012 11:57:13 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 Shift knob restoration Message-ID: <1344711433.17827.YahooMailNeo@web180905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> I had the same problem. I had a cranked TR4 stick shift and the TR3 knob had the wrong threads. I machined a threaded adapter at the time. I have since switched to the correct TR3 stick and may still have the threaded adapter still lying around in my shop if you still need it. The TR3 takes a long tapered knob and the TR4 had I round knob ISTR. -Bill Brewer - Tehachapi Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2012 11:09:13 -0400 From: "Adrian Jones" To: Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Shift knob restoration Message-ID: <000001cd77d3$446dbe20$cd493a60$@net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I also prefer the original, the walnut aftermarket look a bit gaudy, IMHO. My original however doesn't fit because it is a TR4 gearbox. Did they really change the threads or am I a klutz? Cheers! Adrian From JGILLIS at tcd.ie Sat Aug 11 14:47:00 2012 From: JGILLIS at tcd.ie (John Gillis) Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2012 21:47:00 +0100 Subject: [TR] Next Question Message-ID: Had a good look at the front suspension, the only thing I found was loose stub axle front nut, anyway as often noticed something else to baffle me. Why might the overflow pipe from the petrol tank be dripping even though the tank is only half full, is this a vacuum issue? BTW had a great drive into the Dublin mountains, top down, wind in what is laft of my hair and sun, yes sun, in my face, so this is what it is all about! John '54 TR2 From wbeech at flash.net Sat Aug 11 15:20:41 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2012 16:20:41 -0500 Subject: [TR] Next Question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: The vent comes from the top of the tank, maybe a little spirited mountain driving (Wicklow?) sloshed some out. I can tell you finally enjoying what you a have spent 15 years preparing for. Enjoy! Sent from mobile Bill On Aug 11, 2012, at 3:47 PM, John Gillis wrote: > Had a good look at the front suspension, the only thing I found was loose stub > axle front nut, anyway as often noticed something else to baffle me. Why might > the overflow pipe from the petrol tank be dripping even though the tank is > only half full, is this a vacuum issue? BTW had a great drive into the Dublin > mountains, top down, wind in what is laft of my hair and sun, yes sun, in my > face, so this is what it is all about! > John > '54 TR2 > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From Dave1massey at cs.com Sat Aug 11 15:37:51 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2012 17:37:51 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 Clutch Hydraulics Message-ID: The TR6 was notorious for the heavy clutch. Puts hair on your chest, they would say. There are two brands of clutch available for the TR6 and one is heavier than the other. I forget which (maybe someone here can fill in the blanks) but it sounds like your firend got the heavier one. The first time I replaced the clutch in my TR6 I got lucky (or good advice perhaps it was a long time ago) and when I first hooked up the hydraulics and pushed the clutch pedal I though something was amiss. Be verifying that the output flange turned free of the engine in gear with the pedal depressed proved that it did indeed work. If there was something wrong with the hydraulics or the mechanical linkage then the pressure need to depress the clutch would be noticably greater than the pressure needed to resist its return upon release. Do you notice this? Dave In a message dated 8/11/2012 10:11:00 AM Central Daylight Time, ghaynestr4 at aol.com writes: > Listers, > A friend has a 1970 TR6 in which the clutch pedal requires an excessive > amount > of force to disengage the clutch. Considerably more force than other > TR6's I > have driven and more than my TR4A. We installed a new, stock pressure > plate > last winter. > > Could hydraulics be a fault? The early 1970 took a Master cylinder bore > of > .75", while later 1970's and newer took a .70" bore. Slave cylinder > diameters > are apparently all the same. > Assuming he has an early car, would his problem be improved with use of a > later, smaller bore MC? > > It's not fun driving his car. Could something be binding mechanically? > The > slave pushrod is in the center hole. > Thanks for any insight and advice. > George Haynes From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Aug 11 15:44:32 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2012 14:44:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Shift knob restoration In-Reply-To: References: <000001cd77d3$446dbe20$cd493a60$@net> Message-ID: <1c7801cd780a$7eaaeef0$0601a8c0@randall> > Maybe they used a different > stalk on the > TR4's? Yup. And although the threads remained the same, there were several different shift levers after that point as well. The Stag is even worse, the shift lever, threads and knob are all different depending on whether you have overdrive or not! (and different again with the automatic) -- Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Aug 11 15:53:28 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2012 14:53:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Shift knob restoration In-Reply-To: References: <50255617.4020409@adelphia.net><50256968.7030401@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <1c7a01cd780b$be1c6e00$0601a8c0@randall> > I have what I believe is one of the original TR knobs as well as the > modern rubber version. Any chance you could post a photo somewhere? I'm kind of curious, as I believe my TR3 is wearing it's original hard rubber knob. The pattern is worn away (I think), but it otherwise appears to be similar to the repro that TRF was selling at VTR/TRfest. > There may be early and late versions of the original TR2-3B knobs -- > smarter folk than I will have to chime in here. The SPC lists 3 different knobs (one of them being for the early 2-piece shift lever). Unfortunately there is no change point given for the third knob (at least not in my copy). -- Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Aug 11 16:01:05 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2012 15:01:05 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Shift knob restoration In-Reply-To: <502699A0.8040308@gmail.com> References: <000001cd77d3$446dbe20$cd493a60$@net> <502699A0.8040308@gmail.com> Message-ID: <1c7b01cd780c$ce4f0c00$0601a8c0@randall> > Yep. That's why I kept my TR3 shift lever when I swapped my > TR3 over to > a TR4 overdrive gearbox. No clearance issues. I took the other approach, my TR6 gearbox is wearing a TR3 top cover. That way I got to keep the dipstick. But a previous TR3A had a TR4 box with TR4 lever, and I don't recall having any clearance problems with it, either. The lever was taller, but cranked backwards at an angle so it wouldn't quite go far enough forward to hit the dash. I even had a push-pull switch for the OD tie-wrapped to the top of the lever, so I could move the switch with my middle & ring fingers while simultaneously shifting gears. -- Randall From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Sat Aug 11 16:28:19 2012 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2012 15:28:19 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Shift knob restoration In-Reply-To: <1c7b01cd780c$ce4f0c00$0601a8c0@randall> References: <000001cd77d3$446dbe20$cd493a60$@net> <502699A0.8040308@gmail.com> <1c7b01cd780c$ce4f0c00$0601a8c0@randall> Message-ID: On Sat, Aug 11, 2012 at 3:01 PM, Randall wrote: > But a previous TR3A had a TR4 box with TR4 lever, and I don't recall having > any clearance problems with it, either. I think a TR3 lever in a TR4 is the one that would be a knuckle-buster. > ...I even had a push-pull switch for the OD tie-wrapped to the top of > the lever, so I could move the switch with my middle & ring fingers while > simultaneously shifting gears. > Handy, but I need to keep my middle finger available for other driving duties. Geo From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sat Aug 11 17:02:08 2012 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2012 19:02:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Clutch Hydraulics In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5026E470.3010202@adelphia.net> Ok, I got my 6 out of the garage today since it is her turn for the driving season. So now I can comment on your 6 clutch issues. Here are my comments on clutches on the 3, 4 and 6; The 3 is the best by far. Easy pedal and normal engagement. Smooth and easy on the foot. The 4 is by far the hardest push. Release is at almost to the floor. I have checked everything and that is the best I can get it. The 6 is right in the middle. Engagement is about the same as the 3 but the pedal is a bit harder to push. As you can guess, the 3 is my favorite as far as clutches are but my favorite drive is the 4. Clutches were all new from TRF when installed. No problems with MC or SC in either. Rebuilt original equipment. So, I agree the 6 is a harder push when compared to the 3. A 70 bore would give you better pressure but less throw. Since my 6 is a 72 I am guessing I have the .075 bore. For my 2 cents, as long as they work and dont leak, I am happy. When the bury me, maybe my left leg will be bigger than my right. Bob On 08/11/2012 05:37 PM, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > The TR6 was notorious for the heavy clutch. Puts hair on your chest, they > would say. There are two brands of clutch available for the TR6 and one is > heavier than the other. I forget which (maybe someone here can fill in the > blanks) but it sounds like your firend got the heavier one. The first time > I replaced the clutch in my TR6 I got lucky (or good advice perhaps it was a > long time ago) and when I first hooked up the hydraulics and pushed the > clutch pedal I though something was amiss. Be verifying that the output flange > turned free of the engine in gear with the pedal depressed proved that it > did indeed work. > > If there was something wrong with the hydraulics or the mechanical linkage > then the pressure need to depress the clutch would be noticably greater than > the pressure needed to resist its return upon release. Do you notice this? > > Dave > > In a message dated 8/11/2012 10:11:00 AM Central Daylight Time, > ghaynestr4 at aol.com writes: >> Listers, >> A friend has a 1970 TR6 in which the clutch pedal requires an excessive >> amount >> of force to disengage the clutch. Considerably more force than other >> TR6's I >> have driven and more than my TR4A. We installed a new, stock pressure >> plate >> last winter. >> >> Could hydraulics be a fault? The early 1970 took a Master cylinder bore >> of >> .75", while later 1970's and newer took a .70" bore. Slave cylinder >> diameters >> are apparently all the same. >> Assuming he has an early car, would his problem be improved with use of a >> later, smaller bore MC? >> >> It's not fun driving his car. Could something be binding mechanically? >> The >> slave pushrod is in the center hole. >> Thanks for any insight and advice. >> George Haynes From anabil007 at comcast.net Sat Aug 11 17:12:11 2012 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh) Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2012 16:12:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] Cosmic Laws References: <4FA3EFA4-00DF-4140-AE38-A5B48A7E271F@comcast.net> Message-ID: <66B976D6-6AAE-4231-B851-43FAD6262DD4@comcast.net> Just so you don't forget b& COSMIC LAWS Truer words were never spoken.... ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------------------- 1. Law of Mechanical Repair - After your hands become coated with grease, your nose will begin to itch and you'll have to pee... 2. Law of Gravity - Any tool, nut, bolt, screw, when dropped, will roll to the least accessible place in the universe. "Life is too short to drive boring cars" Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper"p; TS16765L Wallace, CA anabil007 at comcast.net From wbeech at flash.net Sat Aug 11 17:20:23 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2012 18:20:23 -0500 Subject: [TR] Cosmic Laws In-Reply-To: <66B976D6-6AAE-4231-B851-43FAD6262DD4@comcast.net> References: <4FA3EFA4-00DF-4140-AE38-A5B48A7E271F@comcast.net> <66B976D6-6AAE-4231-B851-43FAD6262DD4@comcast.net> Message-ID: <89F3F694078648B6BA9271262842706D@bboffice> Yep #2, I dropped the generator mounting pedestal on Monday, haven't found it yet. As soon as I spend $15 for a new one it WILL turn up. Bill B -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Pugh Sent: Saturday, August 11, 2012 6:12 PM To: TR3/6 Subject: [TR] Cosmic Laws Just so you don't forget b& COSMIC LAWS Truer words were never spoken.... ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- - ---------------------------------------------------- 1. Law of Mechanical Repair - After your hands become coated with grease, your nose will begin to itch and you'll have to pee... 2. Law of Gravity - Any tool, nut, bolt, screw, when dropped, will roll to the least accessible place in the universe. "Life is too short to drive boring cars" Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper"p; TS16765L Wallace, CA anabil007 at comcast.net ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From mark at bradakis.com Sat Aug 11 17:37:36 2012 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2012 17:37:36 -0600 Subject: [TR] Cosmic Laws In-Reply-To: <89F3F694078648B6BA9271262842706D@bboffice> References: <4FA3EFA4-00DF-4140-AE38-A5B48A7E271F@comcast.net> <66B976D6-6AAE-4231-B851-43FAD6262DD4@comcast.net> <89F3F694078648B6BA9271262842706D@bboffice> Message-ID: <5026ECC0.9030402@bradakis.com> Wbeech wrote: > Yep #2, I dropped the generator mounting pedestal on Monday, haven't found > it yet. As soon as I spend $15 for a new one it WILL turn up. > Indeed. As soon as you set the newly purchased replacement tool or part or whatever on the workbench, the old missing one will jump right up next to it. mjb. From aribertn at gmail.com Sat Aug 11 21:15:42 2012 From: aribertn at gmail.com (aribert neumann) Date: Sat, 11 Aug 2012 23:15:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] uh oh - reassembled the GT6 gearbox and there is too much axial play Message-ID: Greeting all: I am in the process of refreshening my early GT6 gearbox. I did all the gap / tolerance checks per the Bently manual. Between the split ring and the miserable 3rd gear circlip the main shaft asm is in tolerance. From the split rings rearward to first gear the axial gap is 0.001 out of tolerance (spec is 0.00 to 0.002) - no big deal. But when I asm the main shaft in the gear box housing, there appears to be an excessive gap of approx 0.150 between the 3-4 shift hub and 4th gear. First pic is of the main main shaft asm in the housing: http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll272/aribert/Triumph/GT6gearboxreassembly.jpg THe second picture is a composit of where the gap is and how it looks when sliding the 4th gear synchro back and forth. I am convinced that the problem is not on the mainshaft from the 3rd gear circlip to the split washers to the rear mainshaft bearing (I have had all the bushings and thrust washers on the shaft to check the axial play). I don't have any pcs left over and the mainshaft bearings are fully seated in the gearbox housing. I'm lost on this - I know the 4th gear synchro can not have 0.150+ of axial play - it would get chewed up. Your thoughts? The big TR gear boxes apprears to be a scaled up version of the Spit/GT6 boxes - so throw me some ideas of things to investigate. From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk Sun Aug 12 02:07:14 2012 From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2012 09:07:14 +0100 (BST) Subject: [TR] TR3 Shift knob restoration In-Reply-To: <1c7801cd780a$7eaaeef0$0601a8c0@randall> References: <000001cd77d3$446dbe20$cd493a60$@net> <1c7801cd780a$7eaaeef0$0601a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <1344758834.44569.YahooMailNeo@web29404.mail.ird.yahoo.com> Randall wrote: The Stag is even worse, the shift lever, threads and knob are all different depending on whether you have overdrive or not! (and different again with the automatic) Which puts Stag gear lever types in common with 2500S, 2000 and the whole Dolomite range - Sprint, 1850 and 1500 rwd. Jonmac ________________________________ From: Randall To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Saturday, 11 August 2012, 22:44 Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Shift knob restoration >> Maybe they used a different >> stalk on the >> TR4's? > >Yup. And although the threads remained the same, there were several >different shift levers after that point as well. > >The Stag is even worse, the shift lever, threads and knob are all different >depending on whether you have overdrive or not! (and different again with >the automatic) > >-- Randall > >** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk Sun Aug 12 09:16:42 2012 From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2012 16:16:42 +0100 (BST) Subject: [TR] A REAL Triumph up for grabs! Message-ID: <1344784602.16465.YahooMailNeo@web29403.mail.ird.yahoo.com> Now this really would be worth owning! A *real* Triumph - and not a lot of money for what it is. See Ebay 230837504027 Jonmac From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sun Aug 12 11:19:00 2012 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2012 13:19:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Clutch Hydraulics Message-ID: <5027E584.8040409@adelphia.net> Dave, While I was out for a ride today, I thought of another possible cause to the hard push on the TR6 clutch. Problem may be that the transmission was not aligned with the engine when installed. You must make sure the 2 larger bolts are installed first before installing the rest of the bolts to the transmission. If I remember correctly they are on the left and right sides respectively. On some engines, they might be a stud. But on mine they were bolts. This is very important. The clutch may be binding against the fly wheel if the alignment is off. Bob From wbeech at flash.net Sun Aug 12 14:01:05 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2012 15:01:05 -0500 Subject: [TR] A REAL Triumph up for grabs! In-Reply-To: <1344784602.16465.YahooMailNeo@web29403.mail.ird.yahoo.com> References: <1344784602.16465.YahooMailNeo@web29403.mail.ird.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2AE0EAF6E6994A40B660E520D495F10F@bboffice> Yes John, You need to give this car a home and the restoration expertise that it needs. Very nice car, if it were on US soil I would have to go see it. Notice the VIN plate, has the Logo that Triumph Motorcycles use still today. Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Macartney Sent: Sunday, August 12, 2012 10:17 AM To: Triumph List Subject: [TR] A REAL Triumph up for grabs! Now this really would be worth owning! A *real* Triumph - and not a lot of money for what it is. See Ebay 230837504027 Jonmac ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From cairnsbk at sbcglobal.net Sun Aug 12 16:05:52 2012 From: cairnsbk at sbcglobal.net (Bruce Cairns) Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2012 15:05:52 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] 1974 TR-6 for sale Message-ID: <1344809152.21594.YahooMailRC@web184306.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Hello fellow Triumph listers, After 34 years, the time has come for me to part with my beloved '74 TR-6. A rollover accident in which I was broadsided in my Toyota 4Runner by a red light-runner has prompted my decision - I wouldn't be here to write this if I'd been in the TR. Anyway, this is a Southern California car with the factory hardtop, purchased from the second owner in 1978 and completely restored in 1998. I've put less than 2,000 miles on her since the rebuild. I have most of the work orders/receipts detailing the rebuild. I'm asking $15,000. There is too much for me to list here, so if you're interested, please e-mail me at: cairnsbk at sbcglobal.net I will be happy to e-mail photos and speak with you if you're serious. Best regards, Bruce Cairns From zoboherald at aol.com Sun Aug 12 18:06:55 2012 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace) Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2012 20:06:55 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] A REAL Triumph up for grabs! In-Reply-To: <2AE0EAF6E6994A40B660E520D495F10F@bboffice> References: <1344784602.16465.YahooMailNeo@web29403.mail.ird.yahoo.com> <2AE0EAF6E6994A40B660E520D495F10F@bboffice> Message-ID: <8CF46FEAEAE57D3-13B4-3648E@webmail-d068.sysops.aol.com> When that car was built, it was all still the same company (even including the bicycles, I think)! --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us -----Original Message----- From: Wbeech Subject: Re: [TR] A REAL Triumph up for grabs! Notice the VIN plate, has the Logo that Triumph Motorcycles use still today. From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Sun Aug 12 19:11:52 2012 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Sun, 12 Aug 2012 18:11:52 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] electric fan Message-ID: <1344820312.23589.YahooMailNeo@web65515.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Finally got the 3 running for the first time after restoration! Now still need lots of assembly but that major event is done! However I'm wondering about my electric fan. It's running backward..........(mounted behind the radiator and blowing forward) Is there a way to re-wire it so it spins the other way? Sucking toward the engine? My tr-3 is positive ground and fan is negative ground and grounded on the inner fender with black wire............and has two red wires for power.........(smaller red for ignition switch and larger red for power source). ALSO............would it work ok blowing forward? Since most times when the fan is needed the car would be stopped or almost stopped in traffic and not moving very fast there fore the fan would not be fighting against air flow very often or long. thanks! gary n. From wbeech at flash.net Sun Aug 12 23:27:33 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2012 00:27:33 -0500 Subject: [TR] electric fan In-Reply-To: <1344820312.23589.YahooMailNeo@web65515.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <1344820312.23589.YahooMailNeo@web65515.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Check with the manufacturer, but it should be a simple matter of swapping the hot & ground wires. No, you cannot have it blowing forward. When you are driving this will just put more strain on the fan than it is designed to take and you will be shopping for a re-placement before too long after it burns up from the over load. Congratulations on the first start-up! Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary Nafziger Sent: Sunday, August 12, 2012 8:12 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] electric fan Finally got the 3 running for the first time after restoration! Now still need lots of assembly but that major event is done! However I'm wondering about my electric fan. It's running backward..........(mounted behind the radiator and blowing forward) Is there a way to re-wire it so it spins the other way? Sucking toward the engine? My tr-3 is positive ground and fan is negative ground and grounded on the inner fender with black wire............and has two red wires for power.........(smaller red for ignition switch and larger red for power source). ALSO............would it work ok blowing forward? Since most times when the fan is needed the car would be stopped or almost stopped in traffic and not moving very fast there fore the fan would not be fighting against air flow very often or long. thanks! gary n. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From yellowtr at adelphia.net Mon Aug 13 08:24:49 2012 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2012 10:24:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fwd: Re: 1974 TR-6 for sale In-Reply-To: <50290E07.6010809@adelphia.net> References: <50290E07.6010809@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <50290E31.5060404@adelphia.net> Bruce, Sorry to hear about your accident. And also sorry to hear that you are selling your Triumph. I have given up motorcycles for a similar reason although I have only had some close calls. Drivers these days are paying attention to everything but driving. They run stop signs, lights, cut you off mostly just because they think they own the road or something. They just dont look. They think they are in their living room playing on their Xbox or something. I sold my 98 Tbird this spring and am keeping my 74 Bonny until the market improves. But I will not stop driving my 3 Triumph cars. But yes, I do worry when I am in a Triumph. I hope you are ok after the accident. Bob On 08/12/2012 06:05 PM, Bruce Cairns wrote: > Hello fellow Triumph listers, > After 34 years, the time has come for me to part with my beloved '74 TR-6. A > rollover accident in which I was broadsided in my Toyota 4Runner by a red > light-runner has prompted my decision - I wouldn't be here to write this if I'd > been in the TR. Anyway, this is a Southern California car with the factory > hardtop, purchased from the second owner in 1978 and completely restored in > 1998. I've put less than 2,000 miles on her since the rebuild. I have most of > the work orders/receipts detailing the rebuild. I'm asking $15,000. There is > too much for me to list here, so if you're interested, please e-mail me at: > cairnsbk at sbcglobal.net > I will be happy to e-mail photos and speak with you if you're serious. > > Best regards, > Bruce Cairns From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Mon Aug 13 09:21:55 2012 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2012 08:21:55 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] electric fan In-Reply-To: <1344820312.23589.YahooMailNeo@web65515.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <1344820312.23589.YahooMailNeo@web65515.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1344871315.71838.YahooMailNeo@web120201.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Gary for all the fans i have had on my TR3 i have been able to just flip the wires around and change it from pull to push. Frank From: Gary Nafziger To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" Sent: Sunday, August 12, 2012 6:11 PM Subject: [TR] electric fan Finally got the 3 running for the first time after restoration! Now still need lots of assembly but that major event is done! However I'm wondering about my electric fan. It's running backward..........(mounted behind the radiator and blowing forward) Is there a way to re-wire it so it spins the other way? Sucking toward the engine? My tr-3 is positive ground and fan is negative ground and grounded on the inner fender with black wire............and has two red wires for power.........(smaller red for ignition switch and larger red for power source). ALSO............would it work ok blowing forward? Since most times when the fan is needed the car would be stopped or almost stopped in traffic and not moving very fast there fore the fan would not be fighting against air flow very often or long. thanks! gary n. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From anabil007 at comcast.net Mon Aug 13 09:59:33 2012 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2012 08:59:33 -0700 Subject: [TR] electric fan In-Reply-To: <1344820312.23589.YahooMailNeo@web65515.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <1344820312.23589.YahooMailNeo@web65515.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <7CA20AAD-4025-49B2-A584-3D82ABE5E865@comcast.net> Just reverse the wires from the fan b& Blowing forward is not a good idea b& On Aug 12, 2012, at 6:11 PM, Gary Nafziger wrote: > Finally got the 3 running for the first time after restoration! Now still > need lots of assembly but that major event is done! > > However I'm wondering > about my electric fan. It's running backward..........(mounted behind the > radiator and blowing forward) Is there a way to re-wire it so it spins the > other way? Sucking toward the engine? My tr-3 is positive ground and fan is > negative ground and grounded on the inner fender with black > wire............and has two red wires for power.........(smaller red for > ignition switch and larger red for power source). > "Life is too short to drive boring cars" Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper"p; TS16765L Wallace, CA anabil007 at comcast.net From timipurdy at citlink.net Mon Aug 13 16:18:06 2012 From: timipurdy at citlink.net (Tim Purdy) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2012 15:18:06 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR 4 Bonnet Search Message-ID: <874B8FA4-5E6B-49DE-AEA9-B585F89D5A43@citlink.net> Here I am again looking for a bonnet. I bought one, but Greyhound lost it. Considering that it is nearly impossible to get an answer from Greyhound and who knows when, if ever it shows up, I can no longer wait. The TR4 is my only car. So here is another plea, I just hope there is one west of the Rockies, but wherever works. I will pay the extra money to have it shipped reliable and quickly. Tim Purdy From triumph at lbcs.ca Mon Aug 13 17:03:50 2012 From: triumph at lbcs.ca (Dave More) Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2012 17:03:50 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR 4 Bonnet Search In-Reply-To: <874B8FA4-5E6B-49DE-AEA9-B585F89D5A43@citlink.net> References: <874B8FA4-5E6B-49DE-AEA9-B585F89D5A43@citlink.net> Message-ID: Tim, you may want to try Drake's British Motors in Kelowna, BC. http://www.drakesbritishmotors.com/main.shtml Len has scads of parts and there's a very good likelihood that he may be able to fix you up. Cheers, Dave On 2012-08-13, at 4:18 PM, Tim Purdy wrote: > Here I am again looking for a bonnet. I bought one, but Greyhound lost it. > Considering that it is nearly impossible to get an answer from Greyhound and > who knows when, if ever it shows up, I can no longer wait. The TR4 is my only > car. So here is another plea, I just hope there is one west of the Rockies, > but wherever works. I will pay the extra money to have it shipped reliable and > quickly. > > Tim Purdy > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumph at lbcs.ca From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk Tue Aug 14 03:06:43 2012 From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2012 10:06:43 +0100 (BST) Subject: [TR] TR 4 Bonnet Search In-Reply-To: References: <874B8FA4-5E6B-49DE-AEA9-B585F89D5A43@citlink.net> Message-ID: <1344935203.27878.YahooMailNeo@web29404.mail.ird.yahoo.com> Another possible source is Robbie McLeod in Arkansas near Little Rock. Not exactly next door for CA but I visited with the British Motoring Club of Arkansas in 2009 and their clubhouse is bang next door to Robbie's place. Acres and acres of old LBC's quietly dissolving into nothingness. I saw several Frog Eye bonnets there and these are like hens teeth. The BMCA website is currently under rebuild but I can give you an email address off list of one of the club officials who may be able to make a connection for you. There's lots of stuff outside but also an enormous covered warehouse as well. Rumour had it that Robbie often supplied Moss with unobtanium. Jonmac ________________________________ From: Dave More To: Tim Purdy Cc: TR List Sent: Tuesday, 14 August 2012, 0:03 Subject: Re: [TR] TR 4 Bonnet Search >Tim, you may want to try Drake's British Motors in Kelowna, BC. >http://www.drakesbritishmotors.com/main.shtml >Len has scads of parts and there's a very good likelihood that he may be able >to fix you up. > >Cheers, >Dave > > >On 2012-08-13, at 4:18 PM, Tim Purdy wrote: > >> Here I am again looking for a bonnet. I bought one, but Greyhound lost it. >> Considering that it is nearly impossible to get an answer from Greyhound >and >> who knows when, if ever it shows up, I can no longer wait. The TR4 is my >only >> car. So here is another plea, I just hope there is one west of the Rockies, >> but wherever works. I will pay the extra money to have it shipped reliable >and >> quickly. >> >> Tim Purdy >> >> ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumph at lbcs.ca > >** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Tue Aug 14 04:22:06 2012 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2012 03:22:06 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] (no subject) Message-ID: <1344939726.15385.YahooMailNeo@web39403.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hi List! I've been reviewing some 'new' threads for the second edition of my manual & came across this thread one: Subject: Master or Slave problem Date: Sat, 19 May 2012 From: All was good then one day I had to pump the clutch pedal a few times to get it to disengage. I first thought, air in the line or low fluid. Fluid was good so bled the line... twice... no soap. So, I suppose I need to narrow this down to the master or the slave cylinder. Both were rebuild just 4 years, 3,500mi, ago and have been performing flawlessly up until now. Is there a way to determine whether it is the M/C or the S/C, so I can maybe have a chance of starting in the right place? -Bill Beecher -------------------- Subject: Master or Slave problem Date: Sat, 19 May 2012 From: "Randall" > Is there a way to determine whether it is the M/C or the S/C, so I can maybe have a chance of starting in the > right place? There is basically no way for the slave to fail, except to leak fluid. If no leak, it's not the slave cylinder. And even if it does start leaking, the leak will likely be slow enough that low fluid will be the first thing you notice (not having to pump the pedal). Check out the MC first, definitely. But your description sounds suspiciously like the dread broken taper pin. - Randall ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- I've been working on a friends TR4 with the same problem (soft peddle). I was told, with the MC Blead & in the car, Plug the outlet of the MC& press the peddle down. If the peddle is firm (hard), then the problem is futher down the line.-Cosmo Kramer From ambritts at bellsouth.net Tue Aug 14 06:10:34 2012 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2012 08:10:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] Found this Message-ID: <4E83696ED5914EFC8C9468FF04129267@AlexPC> Who would have thought...Click on the gift box....... http://www.123greetings.com/birthday/happy_birthday/something_nice_for_your_b irthday.html Alex 59TR3A 72TR6 From wbeech at flash.net Tue Aug 14 07:34:40 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2012 08:34:40 -0500 Subject: [TR] (Master or Slave) Follow up and resolution In-Reply-To: <1344939726.15385.YahooMailNeo@web39403.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <1344939726.15385.YahooMailNeo@web39403.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <5636380B0D3C4CA18E3B293E268416EF@bboffice> Cosmo, Because team.net does not send me posts from Randall(go figure) I never saw his response, and the archives were not working either. So, I started at the slave only because I had recently replaced the return spring and I had not been anywhere close to the M/C around the time of this problem arising. My only guess is that somehow while the spring was out the piston was allowed to move up past the 'crud ring'(my term for the internal build up beyond the slide area) and the damaged the seal. It was leaking internally, and I only found it after removing the rubber cup. BTW, The old Rovers use the same S/C setup and I was able to buy a new replacement for only $13.75 as opposed to $45 at Moss. Installed and all problems are resolved at this point. Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Cosmo Kramer Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2012 5:22 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] (no subject) Hi List! I've been reviewing some 'new' threads for the second edition of my manual & came across this thread one: Subject: Master or Slave problem Date: Sat, 19 May 2012 From: All was good then one day I had to pump the clutch pedal a few times to get it to disengage. I first thought, air in the line or low fluid. Fluid was good so bled the line... twice... no soap. So, I suppose I need to narrow this down to the master or the slave cylinder. Both were rebuild just 4 years, 3,500mi, ago and have been performing flawlessly up until now. Is there a way to determine whether it is the M/C or the S/C, so I can maybe have a chance of starting in the right place? -Bill Beecher -------------------- Subject: Master or Slave problem Date: Sat, 19 May 2012 From: "Randall" > Is there a way to determine whether it is the M/C or the S/C, so I can maybe have a chance of starting in the > right place? There is basically no way for the slave to fail, except to leak fluid. If no leak, it's not the slave cylinder. And even if it does start leaking, the leak will likely be slow enough that low fluid will be the first thing you notice (not having to pump the pedal). Check out the MC first, definitely. But your description sounds suspiciously like the dread broken taper pin. - Randall ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- - I've been working on a friends TR4 with the same problem (soft peddle). I was told, with the MC Blead & in the car, Plug the outlet of the MC& press the peddle down. If the peddle is firm (hard), then the problem is futher down the line.-Cosmo Kramer ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From mgodley at tiac.net Tue Aug 14 12:19:42 2012 From: mgodley at tiac.net (Michael Godley) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2012 14:19:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR 4 Bonnet Search In-Reply-To: Message-ID: "Here I am again looking for a bonnet" Tim, Call Mike Bonaducci in Bradford VT. at (802) 439-5815 he has a HUGE assortment of used TR Parts and I would be surprised if he does not have what you need Michael Godley 65TR4A From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Tue Aug 14 12:50:25 2012 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2012 11:50:25 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] (Master or Slave) Follow up and resolution Message-ID: <1344970225.23333.YahooMailNeo@web180905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> So Bill, Where does someone find an old Rover slave cylinder setup? I don't seem to have the catalog on those... -Bill in Tehachapi From: "Wbeech" To: "'Cosmo Kramer'" , Subject: Re: [TR] (Master or Slave) Follow up and resolution Message-ID: <5636380B0D3C4CA18E3B293E268416EF at bboffice> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Cosmo, Because team.net does not send me posts from Randall(go figure) I never saw his response, and the archives were not working either. So, I started at the slave only because I had recently replaced the return spring and I had not been anywhere close to the M/C around the time of this problem arising. My only guess is that somehow while the spring was out the piston was allowed to move up past the 'crud ring'(my term for the internal build up beyond the slide area) and the damaged the seal. It was leaking internally, and I only found it after removing the rubber cup. BTW, The old Rovers use the same S/C setup and I was able to buy a new replacement for only $13.75 as opposed to $45 at Moss. Installed and all problems are resolved at this point. Bill From tjwakeman at gmail.com Tue Aug 14 13:10:11 2012 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2012 12:10:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] (Master or Slave) Follow up and resolution In-Reply-To: <1344970225.23333.YahooMailNeo@web180905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1344970225.23333.YahooMailNeo@web180905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <502AA293.2080508@gmail.com> On 8/14/12 11:50 AM, William Brewer wrote: > So Bill, > Where does someone find an old Rover slave cylinder setup? I > don't seem to have the catalog on those... > > -Bill in Tehachapi > > Closest to you would be British Pacific. If on the Phone ask to talk to Marty. He is a TR guy. TeriAnn From bkahler1 at gmail.com Tue Aug 14 13:50:57 2012 From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2012 15:50:57 -0400 Subject: [TR] Adding a VSS pulse generator inline with speedometer cable Message-ID: The subject line pretty much describes what I need to do. I've checked with some speedometer shops and either I get someone I can't understand or they don't understand what I'm looking for. What I need is to add one of the VSS signal generators in line with my speedometer cable so I can finish the installation of the cruise control on my TR4. The only signal generator I can find has the typical GM style 7/8 male thread at one end with a 5/8" (I think) male thread on the other end. I don't mind sending the speedometer cable and adapter some place to have it fitted. Any suggestions? Thanks, Brad 1963 TR4 From wbeech at flash.net Tue Aug 14 14:18:30 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2012 15:18:30 -0500 Subject: [TR] Adding a VSS pulse generator inline with speedometer cable In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <032C7E0D-06F2-4F87-9C9D-92F723150F89@flash.net> Or, as an alternative I remember adding cruise to an old truck, they sent me two magnets and roll of tape. Strap one to the driveshaft and the other mounted on a bracket in close proximity. Voila! Le pulse generator. Drove that old truck for 20 years. Have you tried West Valley Instruments in SoCal or ZepCo in Dallas? Sent from mobile Bill On Aug 14, 2012, at 2:50 PM, Brad Kahler wrote: > The subject line pretty much describes what I need to do. I've checked > with some speedometer shops and either I get someone I can't understand or > they don't understand what I'm looking for. > > What I need is to add one of the VSS signal generators in line with my > speedometer cable so I can finish the installation of the cruise control on > my TR4. The only signal generator I can find has the typical GM style 7/8 > male thread at one end with a 5/8" (I think) male thread on the other end. > > I don't mind sending the speedometer cable and adapter some place to have > it fitted. > > Any suggestions? > > Thanks, > > Brad > 1963 TR4 > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From lee at automate-it.com Tue Aug 14 14:32:44 2012 From: lee at automate-it.com (Lee Daniels) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2012 15:32:44 -0500 Subject: [TR] Adding a VSS pulse generator inline with speedometer cable Message-ID: <6e0f70a0e79028e847d7441120bba67d.squirrel@www.automate-it.com> Speaking of Voila!, here's http://amzn.com/B0009GVUG8 Magnetic VSS Speed Pulse Generator Kit for Rostra and Audiovox Cruise Control also see them on ebay. > Or, as an alternative I remember adding cruise to an old truck, they sent me two magnets and roll of tape. Strap one to the driveshaft and the other mounted on a bracket in close proximity. Voila! Le pulse generator. Drove that old truck for 20 years. From bkahler1 at gmail.com Tue Aug 14 17:39:49 2012 From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2012 19:39:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] Adding a VSS pulse generator inline with speedometer cable In-Reply-To: <6e0f70a0e79028e847d7441120bba67d.squirrel@www.automate-it.com> References: <6e0f70a0e79028e847d7441120bba67d.squirrel@www.automate-it.com> Message-ID: On Tue, Aug 14, 2012 at 4:32 PM, Lee Daniels wrote: > Speaking of Voila!, here's > > http://amzn.com/B0009GVUG8 > Magnetic VSS Speed Pulse Generator Kit for Rostra and Audiovox Cruise > Control > > also see them on ebay. > > > > Or, as an alternative I remember adding cruise to an old truck, they > sent me > two magnets and roll of tape. Strap one to the driveshaft and the other > mounted on a bracket in close proximity. Voila! Le pulse generator. Drove > that old truck for 20 years. > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bkahler1 at gmail.com From bkahler1 at gmail.com Tue Aug 14 17:40:46 2012 From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2012 19:40:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] Adding a VSS pulse generator inline with speedometer cable In-Reply-To: <6e0f70a0e79028e847d7441120bba67d.squirrel@www.automate-it.com> References: <6e0f70a0e79028e847d7441120bba67d.squirrel@www.automate-it.com> Message-ID: Well a bunch of you have suggested/recommended the magnets on the drive shaft option. I did find a magnet setup that was about $20 cheaper than Amazon http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RPC-250-4165/?rtype=10 I will check out Susquehanna Motorsports as suggested by Phil. I'm going to search a little while longer trying to find someone that will modify a speedometer cable to work with a pulse generator but at least I have a fall back option that is not all that expensive. Thanks! Brad On Tue, Aug 14, 2012 at 4:32 PM, Lee Daniels wrote: > Speaking of Voila!, here's > > http://amzn.com/B0009GVUG8 > Magnetic VSS Speed Pulse Generator Kit for Rostra and Audiovox Cruise > Control > > also see them on ebay. > > > > Or, as an alternative I remember adding cruise to an old truck, they > sent me > two magnets and roll of tape. Strap one to the driveshaft and the other > mounted on a bracket in close proximity. Voila! Le pulse generator. Drove > that old truck for 20 years. > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bkahler1 at gmail.com From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Tue Aug 14 19:29:30 2012 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2012 21:29:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] Adding a VSS pulse generator inline with speedometer cable In-Reply-To: References: <6e0f70a0e79028e847d7441120bba67d.squirrel@www.automate-it.com> Message-ID: Next thing will be a Flux Capacitor! -----Original Message----- From: Brad Kahler Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2012 7:40 PM To: Triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] Adding a VSS pulse generator inline with speedometer cable Well a bunch of you have suggested/recommended the magnets on the drive shaft option. I did find a magnet setup that was about $20 cheaper than Amazon http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RPC-250-4165/?rtype=10 I will check out Susquehanna Motorsports as suggested by Phil. I'm going to search a little while longer trying to find someone that will modify a speedometer cable to work with a pulse generator but at least I have a fall back option that is not all that expensive. Thanks! Brad On Tue, Aug 14, 2012 at 4:32 PM, Lee Daniels wrote: > Speaking of Voila!, here's > > http://amzn.com/B0009GVUG8 > Magnetic VSS Speed Pulse Generator Kit for Rostra and Audiovox Cruise > Control > > also see them on ebay. > > > > Or, as an alternative I remember adding cruise to an old truck, they > sent me > two magnets and roll of tape. Strap one to the driveshaft and the other > mounted on a bracket in close proximity. Voila! Le pulse generator. > Drove > that old truck for 20 years. > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bkahler1 at gmail.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jerryvv at roadrunner.com From bkahler1 at gmail.com Tue Aug 14 19:49:38 2012 From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2012 21:49:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] Adding a VSS pulse generator inline with speedometer cable In-Reply-To: References: <6e0f70a0e79028e847d7441120bba67d.squirrel@www.automate-it.com> Message-ID: I'm waiting for it to become readily available over the counter at the local FLAPS :) On Tue, Aug 14, 2012 at 9:29 PM, Jerry Van Vlack wrote: > Next thing will be a Flux Capacitor! > > -----Original Message----- From: Brad Kahler > Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2012 7:40 PM > To: Triumphs > Subject: Re: [TR] Adding a VSS pulse generator inline with speedometer > cable > > Well a bunch of you have suggested/recommended the magnets on the drive > shaft option. I did find a magnet setup that was about $20 cheaper than > Amazon http://www.summitracing.com/**parts/RPC-250-4165/?rtype=10 > > I will check out Susquehanna Motorsports as suggested by Phil. > > I'm going to search a little while longer trying to find someone that will > modify a speedometer cable to work with a pulse generator but at least I > have a fall back option that is not all that expensive. > > Thanks! > > Brad From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Aug 14 20:03:35 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2012 19:03:35 -0700 Subject: [TR] Adding a VSS pulse generator inline with speedometer cable In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1fd001cd7a8a$2e60be20$0601a8c0@randall> > What I need is to add one of the VSS signal generators in line with my > speedometer cable so I can finish the installation of the > cruise control on > my TR4. Have you considered using ignition pulses instead? You'd want to be sure the cruise control drops out when the clutch is pressed, but you'll need that anyway. -- Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Aug 14 20:05:14 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2012 19:05:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] (Master or Slave) Follow up and resolution In-Reply-To: <502AA293.2080508@gmail.com> References: <1344970225.23333.YahooMailNeo@web180905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <502AA293.2080508@gmail.com> Message-ID: <1fd101cd7a8a$693f15f0$0601a8c0@randall> > Closest to you would be British Pacific. If on the Phone ask > to talk to > Marty. He is a TR guy. These days, I think Steve is more involved with TRs than Marty. -- Randall From bkahler1 at gmail.com Tue Aug 14 20:18:11 2012 From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Tue, 14 Aug 2012 22:18:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] Adding a VSS pulse generator inline with speedometer cable In-Reply-To: <1fd001cd7a8a$2e60be20$0601a8c0@randall> References: <1fd001cd7a8a$2e60be20$0601a8c0@randall> Message-ID: The first version of the SCS/Frigette cruise control (circa 1998) had coil sense capability and I used it with great success on my Spitfire. The next SCS/Frigette cruise control I bought in 2001 had that feature removed and it only works with VSS type signals. Connecting it to the coil actually fries the cruise module as I found out recently. I've been looking at other brands but so far the only ones I've found all require some sort of VSS and don't allow connecting to the coil. Quite frustrating. On Tue, Aug 14, 2012 at 10:03 PM, Randall wrote: > > What I need is to add one of the VSS signal generators in line with my > > speedometer cable so I can finish the installation of the > > cruise control on > > my TR4. > > Have you considered using ignition pulses instead? You'd want to be sure > the cruise control drops out when the clutch is pressed, but you'll need > that anyway. > > -- Randall From don.hiscock at gmail.com Wed Aug 15 07:01:00 2012 From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2012 09:01:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Shift knob restoration In-Reply-To: <1c7a01cd780b$be1c6e00$0601a8c0@randall> References: <50255617.4020409@adelphia.net> <50256968.7030401@adelphia.net> <1c7a01cd780b$be1c6e00$0601a8c0@randall> Message-ID: Here are links to several photos of my NOS TR3 shift knob alongside the modern TRF reproduction. The knob with the dull finish on the left is the modern one. http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/i-RZdG7PR/0/XL/i-RZdG7PR-XL.jpg http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/i-HZZGffj/0/XL/i-HZZGffj-XL.jpg http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/i-9WkJrD4/0/XL/i-9WkJrD4-XL.jpg http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/i-Pw9zjXX/0/XL/i-Pw9zjXX-XL.jpg http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/i-Pw9zjXX/0/XL/i-Pw9zjXX-XL.jpg Here are links to photos of the original shift knob on an unrestored long-door TR2 (TS2XXX) with fewer than 20000 miles or so. This one seems to have never had the shift pattern molded into the knob. http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/i-9MPmkpn/0/XL/i-9MPmkpn-XL.jpg http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/i-9Xs45b5/0/XL/i-9Xs45b5-XL.jpg I'm told by a member of this forum who's forgotten more about TRs than I'll ever know that the early TR2 knobs were not threaded, but a push-on fit to the shift lever. Don 1962 TR3B (which is now back in my garage, licensed and running, after almost 30 years off the road and 31 years of ownership! Happy 50th birthday, TSF202L!) On Sat, Aug 11, 2012 at 5:53 PM, Randall wrote: > > I have what I believe is one of the original TR knobs as well as the > > modern rubber version. > > Any chance you could post a photo somewhere? I'm kind of curious, as I > believe my TR3 is wearing it's original hard rubber knob. The pattern is > worn away (I think), but it otherwise appears to be similar to the repro > that TRF was selling at VTR/TRfest. > > > There may be early and late versions of the original TR2-3B knobs -- > > smarter folk than I will have to chime in here. > > The SPC lists 3 different knobs (one of them being for the early 2-piece > shift lever). Unfortunately there is no change point given for the third > knob (at least not in my copy). > > -- Randall > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com From tjwakeman at gmail.com Wed Aug 15 07:16:17 2012 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2012 06:16:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] (Master or Slave) Follow up and resolution In-Reply-To: <1fd101cd7a8a$693f15f0$0601a8c0@randall> References: <1344970225.23333.YahooMailNeo@web180905.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <502AA293.2080508@gmail.com> <1fd101cd7a8a$693f15f0$0601a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <502BA121.4040404@gmail.com> On 8/14/12 7:05 PM, Randall wrote: >> Closest to you would be British Pacific. If on the Phone ask >> to talk to >> Marty. He is a TR guy. > These days, I think Steve is more involved with TRs than Marty. > > -- Randall Steve no longer owns British Pacific. He was bought out over a year ago and no longer works there. Leaving Marty as the only TR guy at the company. TeriAnn From yellowtr at adelphia.net Wed Aug 15 07:30:32 2012 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2012 09:30:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Shift knob restoration In-Reply-To: References: <50255617.4020409@adelphia.net> <50256968.7030401@adelphia.net> <1c7a01cd780b$be1c6e00$0601a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <502BA478.6050107@adelphia.net> Don, Your original is in great shape. Mine, on the other hand, was really bad. There is/was no evidence of a shift pattern. But my restoration resulted in a smooth knob and looks almost brand new. And since I have 3 TRs with the same shift pattern, and have been shifting them for over 40 years, I really don't need a reminder! Bob On 08/15/2012 09:01 AM, Don Hiscock wrote: > Here are links to several photos of my NOS TR3 shift knob alongside the > modern TRF reproduction. The knob with the dull finish on the left is the > modern one. > http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/i-RZdG7PR/0/XL/i-RZdG7PR-XL.jpg > http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/i-HZZGffj/0/XL/i-HZZGffj-XL.jpg > http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/i-9WkJrD4/0/XL/i-9WkJrD4-XL.jpg > http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/i-Pw9zjXX/0/XL/i-Pw9zjXX-XL.jpg > http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/i-Pw9zjXX/0/XL/i-Pw9zjXX-XL.jpg > > > Here are links to photos of the original shift knob on an unrestored > long-door TR2 (TS2XXX) with fewer than 20000 miles or so. This one seems > to have never had the shift pattern molded into the knob. > http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/i-9MPmkpn/0/XL/i-9MPmkpn-XL.jpg > http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/i-9Xs45b5/0/XL/i-9Xs45b5-XL.jpg > > I'm told by a member of this forum who's forgotten more about TRs than I'll > ever know that the early TR2 knobs were not threaded, but a push-on fit to > the shift lever. > > Don > 1962 TR3B > (which is now back in my garage, licensed and running, after almost 30 > years off the road and 31 years of ownership! Happy 50th birthday, > TSF202L!) > > On Sat, Aug 11, 2012 at 5:53 PM, Randall wrote: > >>> I have what I believe is one of the original TR knobs as well as the >>> modern rubber version. >> Any chance you could post a photo somewhere? I'm kind of curious, as I >> believe my TR3 is wearing it's original hard rubber knob. The pattern is >> worn away (I think), but it otherwise appears to be similar to the repro >> that TRF was selling at VTR/TRfest. >> >>> There may be early and late versions of the original TR2-3B knobs -- >>> smarter folk than I will have to chime in here. >> The SPC lists 3 different knobs (one of them being for the early 2-piece >> shift lever). Unfortunately there is no change point given for the third >> knob (at least not in my copy). >> >> -- Randall From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Wed Aug 15 07:50:09 2012 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2012 06:50:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] Adding a VSS pulse generator inline with speedometer cable In-Reply-To: References: <1fd001cd7a8a$2e60be20$0601a8c0@randall> Message-ID: On Tue, Aug 14, 2012 at 7:18 PM, Brad Kahler wrote: > ...I've been looking at > other brands but so far the only ones I've found all require some sort of > VSS and don't allow connecting to the coil. > I know some who are using this unit (on VWs): http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=422 Basically a clone of the old (low-tech) Audiovox CC which I have used on my VW for 20+ years and 2 other cars before that (same unit moved from car-to-car). Never put it on a TR but see no reason why it wouldn't suit. Geo From bkahler1 at gmail.com Wed Aug 15 07:59:42 2012 From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2012 09:59:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] Adding a VSS pulse generator inline with speedometer cable In-Reply-To: References: <1fd001cd7a8a$2e60be20$0601a8c0@randall> Message-ID: Geo, This one doesn't allow connecting to the ignition coil as a speed source either. It seems that all of them on the market now require a VSS signal, pulse generator in the speedo cable or else magnets on the drive shaft. Also the one you've listed is a vacuum unit and I prefer the electric servo type. I installed an SCS/Frigette cruise control with electric servo unit on my Spitfire back in 1998 and it worked great. Bud Rolofson then installed one on his TR6 and it's been working great all these years. Now that I want to install one in my TR4 they don't make the style that will sense speed from the ignition coil. The two simplest options are a VSS in the speedometer cable or the magnets on the drive shaft. I haven't given up on the speedometer cable option just yet, still a few more places to check with. Barring that I'll probably end up with the magnets on the drive shaft. Thanks, Brad On Wed, Aug 15, 2012 at 9:50 AM, Geo Hahn wrote: > On Tue, Aug 14, 2012 at 7:18 PM, Brad Kahler wrote: > >> ...I've been looking at >> other brands but so far the only ones I've found all require some sort of >> VSS and don't allow connecting to the coil. >> > > > I know some who are using this unit (on VWs): > > http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=422 > > Basically a clone of the old (low-tech) Audiovox CC which I have used on > my VW for 20+ years and 2 other cars before that (same unit moved from > car-to-car). > > Never put it on a TR but see no reason why it wouldn't suit. > Geo From jdinnis at gmail.com Wed Aug 15 08:02:12 2012 From: jdinnis at gmail.com (John Innis) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2012 09:02:12 -0500 Subject: [TR] Adding a VSS pulse generator inline with speedometer cable In-Reply-To: References: <1fd001cd7a8a$2e60be20$0601a8c0@randall> Message-ID: You could also get (or build) a converter that will take ignition pulses and give you a VSS signal. Do you know what the Specs are for the VSS that your unit wants? On Wed, Aug 15, 2012 at 8:59 AM, Brad Kahler wrote: > Geo, > > This one doesn't allow connecting to the ignition coil as a speed source > either. It seems that all of them on the market now require a VSS signal, > pulse generator in the speedo cable or else magnets on the drive shaft. > > Also the one you've listed is a vacuum unit and I prefer the electric servo > type. > > I installed an SCS/Frigette cruise control with electric servo unit on my > Spitfire back in 1998 and it worked great. Bud Rolofson then installed one > on his TR6 and it's been working great all these years. Now that I want to > install one in my TR4 they don't make the style that will sense speed from > the ignition coil. > > The two simplest options are a VSS in the speedometer cable or the magnets > on the drive shaft. I haven't given up on the speedometer cable option > just yet, still a few more places to check with. Barring that I'll > probably end up with the magnets on the drive shaft. > > Thanks, > > Brad > > > > > On Wed, Aug 15, 2012 at 9:50 AM, Geo Hahn wrote: > > > On Tue, Aug 14, 2012 at 7:18 PM, Brad Kahler wrote: > > > >> ...I've been looking at > >> other brands but so far the only ones I've found all require some sort > of > >> VSS and don't allow connecting to the coil. > >> > > > > > > I know some who are using this unit (on VWs): > > > > http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=422 > > > > Basically a clone of the old (low-tech) Audiovox CC which I have used on > > my VW for 20+ years and 2 other cars before that (same unit moved from > > car-to-car). > > > > Never put it on a TR but see no reason why it wouldn't suit. > > Geo > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jdinnis at gmail.com > -- ================================= = Never offend people with style when you = = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown = ================================= From bkahler1 at gmail.com Wed Aug 15 08:04:01 2012 From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2012 10:04:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] Adding a VSS pulse generator inline with speedometer cable In-Reply-To: References: <1fd001cd7a8a$2e60be20$0601a8c0@randall> Message-ID: No, I don't. Since the new cruise units are designed to work with modern cars I would imagine whatever is typical for a modern VSS would be appropriate. Just shows you how little I know about modern cars :) If it was made after about 1973 I don't know much about them! Brad On Wed, Aug 15, 2012 at 10:02 AM, John Innis wrote: > You could also get (or build) a converter that will take ignition pulses > and give you a VSS signal. Do you know what the Specs are for the VSS that > your unit wants? > > > On Wed, Aug 15, 2012 at 8:59 AM, Brad Kahler wrote: > >> Geo, >> >> This one doesn't allow connecting to the ignition coil as a speed source >> either. It seems that all of them on the market now require a VSS signal, >> pulse generator in the speedo cable or else magnets on the drive shaft. >> >> Also the one you've listed is a vacuum unit and I prefer the electric >> servo >> type. >> >> I installed an SCS/Frigette cruise control with electric servo unit on my >> Spitfire back in 1998 and it worked great. Bud Rolofson then installed >> one >> on his TR6 and it's been working great all these years. Now that I want >> to >> install one in my TR4 they don't make the style that will sense speed from >> the ignition coil. >> >> The two simplest options are a VSS in the speedometer cable or the magnets >> on the drive shaft. I haven't given up on the speedometer cable option >> just yet, still a few more places to check with. Barring that I'll >> probably end up with the magnets on the drive shaft. >> >> Thanks, >> >> Brad From jdinnis at gmail.com Wed Aug 15 08:20:19 2012 From: jdinnis at gmail.com (John Innis) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2012 09:20:19 -0500 Subject: [TR] Adding a VSS pulse generator inline with speedometer cable In-Reply-To: References: <1fd001cd7a8a$2e60be20$0601a8c0@randall> Message-ID: Ok, so a little googleing shows that most of the GM VSS output a 0-5vdc square wave at 4000 pulses per mile. So at 60mph, you are going to get a square wave with a 66.6hz frequency. Assuming you are running about 3000 rpm on a 4cyl engine at the same speed, your tach pulse will be a 0-12v irregular spike at about 200hz. The two frequencies are close enough that you might just have to reduce the voltage down to get the tach signal to work. I'd use a Schmidt trigger to reduce the signal to 5v and try it. Once you get down to 5v, there should be no risk of damage to your cc module. If it doesn't work, then you will need to add a frequency devider to requce it to a point that it operates. Should only take 3 or for components to build the circuit. You could probably do the same thing with just a transistor but you might not get a clean enough square wave to make the CC module happy. On Wed, Aug 15, 2012 at 9:04 AM, Brad Kahler wrote: > No, I don't. > > Since the new cruise units are designed to work with modern cars I would > imagine whatever is typical for a modern VSS would be appropriate. > > Just shows you how little I know about modern cars :) > > If it was made after about 1973 I don't know much about them! > > Brad > > > On Wed, Aug 15, 2012 at 10:02 AM, John Innis wrote: > >> You could also get (or build) a converter that will take ignition pulses >> and give you a VSS signal. Do you know what the Specs are for the VSS that >> your unit wants? >> >> >> On Wed, Aug 15, 2012 at 8:59 AM, Brad Kahler wrote: >> >>> Geo, >>> >>> This one doesn't allow connecting to the ignition coil as a speed source >>> either. It seems that all of them on the market now require a VSS >>> signal, >>> pulse generator in the speedo cable or else magnets on the drive shaft. >>> >>> Also the one you've listed is a vacuum unit and I prefer the electric >>> servo >>> type. >>> >>> I installed an SCS/Frigette cruise control with electric servo unit on my >>> Spitfire back in 1998 and it worked great. Bud Rolofson then installed >>> one >>> on his TR6 and it's been working great all these years. Now that I want >>> to >>> install one in my TR4 they don't make the style that will sense speed >>> from >>> the ignition coil. >>> >>> The two simplest options are a VSS in the speedometer cable or the >>> magnets >>> on the drive shaft. I haven't given up on the speedometer cable option >>> just yet, still a few more places to check with. Barring that I'll >>> probably end up with the magnets on the drive shaft. >>> >>> Thanks, >>> >>> Brad >>> >>> >>> >>> > -- ================================= = Never offend people with style when you = = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown = ================================= From wbeech at flash.net Wed Aug 15 09:19:30 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2012 10:19:30 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Shift knob restoration In-Reply-To: References: <50255617.4020409@adelphia.net><50256968.7030401@adelphia.net><1c7a01cd780b$be1c6e00$0601a8c0@randall> Message-ID: Moss UK lists the "push-On" knob p/n 107885 for TS1-2876, of course it is NLS. They do sell the 2nd listed knob, p/n 109045. Both Rimmer and Moss UK refer to 109045 when you search 123961, that third knob that Randall alluded to. Such a mystery, I wonder if the third one of planned but never produced? Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby" '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" www.triumphowners.com/1566 '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" "If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow" M.Andretti -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Don Hiscock Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2012 8:01 AM To: Randall Cc: Triumphs List Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Shift knob restoration Here are links to several photos of my NOS TR3 shift knob alongside the modern TRF reproduction. The knob with the dull finish on the left is the modern one. http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/i-RZdG7PR/0/XL/i-RZdG7PR-XL.jpg http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/i-HZZGffj/0/XL/i-HZZGffj-XL.jpg http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/i-9WkJrD4/0/XL/i-9WkJrD4-XL.jpg http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/i-Pw9zjXX/0/XL/i-Pw9zjXX-XL.jpg http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/i-Pw9zjXX/0/XL/i-Pw9zjXX-XL.jpg Here are links to photos of the original shift knob on an unrestored long-door TR2 (TS2XXX) with fewer than 20000 miles or so. This one seems to have never had the shift pattern molded into the knob. http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/i-9MPmkpn/0/XL/i-9MPmkpn-XL.jpg http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/i-9Xs45b5/0/XL/i-9Xs45b5-XL.jpg I'm told by a member of this forum who's forgotten more about TRs than I'll ever know that the early TR2 knobs were not threaded, but a push-on fit to the shift lever. Don 1962 TR3B (which is now back in my garage, licensed and running, after almost 30 years off the road and 31 years of ownership! Happy 50th birthday, TSF202L!) On Sat, Aug 11, 2012 at 5:53 PM, Randall wrote: > > I have what I believe is one of the original TR knobs as well as the > > modern rubber version. > > Any chance you could post a photo somewhere? I'm kind of curious, as > I believe my TR3 is wearing it's original hard rubber knob. The > pattern is worn away (I think), but it otherwise appears to be similar > to the repro that TRF was selling at VTR/TRfest. > > > There may be early and late versions of the original TR2-3B knobs -- > > smarter folk than I will have to chime in here. > > The SPC lists 3 different knobs (one of them being for the early > 2-piece shift lever). Unfortunately there is no change point given > for the third knob (at least not in my copy). > > -- Randall > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Wed Aug 15 09:45:59 2012 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2012 08:45:59 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Adding a VSS pulse generator inline with speedometer cable In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1345045559.48824.YahooMailNeo@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> why not have 2 custom speedo cables made. there are lots of little shops around that will do this. if you need a place i have a lead in fallbrook California Frank From: Brad Kahler To: Triumphs Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2012 12:50 PM Subject: [TR] Adding a VSS pulse generator inline with speedometer cable The subject line pretty much describes what I need to do. I've checked with some speedometer shops and either I get someone I can't understand or they don't understand what I'm looking for. What I need is to add one of the VSS signal generators in line with my speedometer cable so I can finish the installation of the cruise control on my TR4. The only signal generator I can find has the typical GM style 7/8 male thread at one end with a 5/8" (I think) male thread on the other end. I don't mind sending the speedometer cable and adapter some place to have it fitted. Any suggestions? Thanks, Brad 1963 TR4 ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From bkahler1 at gmail.com Wed Aug 15 10:10:13 2012 From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2012 12:10:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] Adding a VSS pulse generator inline with speedometer cable In-Reply-To: <1345045559.48824.YahooMailNeo@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1345045559.48824.YahooMailNeo@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Frank, That's what I've been trying to find is a decent speedo shop that can rework cables. I've called several and I'm not sure we were speaking the same language and I've tried emailing/calling others and they don't respond. If you wouldn't mind sending me the info on the place in Fallbrook I would appreciate it. I just got a lead on a shop in Denver that I'm going to check on right now so who knows, maybe that will pan out. Brad On Wed, Aug 15, 2012 at 11:45 AM, Frank Fisher wrote: > why not have 2 custom speedo cables made. > there are lots of little shops around that will do this. > if you need a place i have a lead in fallbrook California > Frank > > *From:* Brad Kahler > *To:* Triumphs > *Sent:* Tuesday, August 14, 2012 12:50 PM > *Subject:* [TR] Adding a VSS pulse generator inline with speedometer cable > > The subject line pretty much describes what I need to do. I've checked > with some speedometer shops and either I get someone I can't understand or > they don't understand what I'm looking for. > > What I need is to add one of the VSS signal generators in line with my > speedometer cable so I can finish the installation of the cruise control on > my TR4. The only signal generator I can find has the typical GM style 7/8 > male thread at one end with a 5/8" (I think) male thread on the other end. > > I don't mind sending the speedometer cable and adapter some place to have > it fitted. > > Any suggestions? > > Thanks, > > Brad > 1963 TR4 > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From edwd at ti.com Wed Aug 15 12:14:30 2012 From: edwd at ti.com (Fisher, Ed) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2012 18:14:30 +0000 Subject: [TR] speedo cabling Message-ID: <67A276399E247245AC2050FC103C4E8A3ECCEE48@DLEE08.ent.ti.com> Try Zepco in Richardson, Tx. I've dealt with these guys, they know their stuff. http://www.zepco.com/ Ed (Dallas, Tx) From cak at dimebank.com Wed Aug 15 12:32:20 2012 From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2012 11:32:20 -0700 Subject: [TR] Adding a VSS pulse generator inline with speedometer, cable In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <502BEB34.3090609@dimebank.com> Palo Alto Speedometer (they're in the monster list) will certainly speak that language and work from a long distance. They won't be cheap, though. I've had them do many custom cables to fit various ratio adapters. From bkahler1 at gmail.com Wed Aug 15 13:30:32 2012 From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2012 15:30:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] Adding a VSS pulse generator inline with speedometer, cable In-Reply-To: <502BEB34.3090609@dimebank.com> References: <502BEB34.3090609@dimebank.com> Message-ID: Chris, Thanks for the lead. This morning I found a place in Denver called Deluxe Speedometer & Cable service who said no problem on modifying the cable. I believe I'll give them a try mainly because the one place in California that I talked to (in Gardena?) quoted a starting point of $120 and Deluxe Speedometer quoted $50 to $65 so I think I'll ship the cable and VSS generator to them and see how it turns out. I'll report back after I see how it looks. Thanks for all the responses! Brad On Wed, Aug 15, 2012 at 2:32 PM, Chris Kantarjiev wrote: > Palo Alto Speedometer (they're in the monster list) will certainly speak > that language and work from a long distance. They won't be cheap, though. > I've had them do many custom cables to fit various ratio adapters. > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > options/triumphs/bkahler1@**gmail.com From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Wed Aug 15 14:20:17 2012 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2012 13:20:17 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Bonneville Message-ID: <1345062017.58078.YahooMailNeo@web120201.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> sorry John Mac but speed week came a week late to keep you away from the o-limp-ics. but it looks like the McLeish's are setting a record in a spitfire. at 150.41. big WOW. Frank From Loumetelko at aol.com Wed Aug 15 15:20:46 2012 From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2012 17:20:46 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 Shift knob restoration Message-ID: <3a1d9.45f0157a.3d5d6cae@aol.com> I'm told by a member of this forum who's forgotten more about TRs than I'll ever know that the early TR2 knobs were not threaded, but a push-on fit to the shift lever. True, the early cars (too lazy to go look up change number) did not have the need for a lock nut under the shift knob. TRF did stock a non threaded shift knob for that push on. I am sure that only Dave H. or John S. would be the only two that are aware of that stock. Lou Metelko Auburn, Indiana 54 TR2LD From wbeech at flash.net Wed Aug 15 15:59:50 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2012 16:59:50 -0500 Subject: [TR] speedo cabling In-Reply-To: <67A276399E247245AC2050FC103C4E8A3ECCEE48@DLEE08.ent.ti.com> References: <67A276399E247245AC2050FC103C4E8A3ECCEE48@DLEE08.ent.ti.com> Message-ID: Ditto, they re-built a VDO speedo for me years ago, never a problem. Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Fisher, Ed Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2012 1:15 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] speedo cabling Try Zepco in Richardson, Tx. I've dealt with these guys, they know their stuff. http://www.zepco.com/ Ed (Dallas, Tx) ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From trdoctor at aol.com Wed Aug 15 21:03:16 2012 From: trdoctor at aol.com (Sam) Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2012 22:03:16 -0500 Subject: [TR] Linkage Adjustment Message-ID: Recently I have posted questions looking for solutions of obtaining full throttle opening on my GT6 with a center pull cable accelerator arrangement (MKIII). So far, no joy. So . . . I have a new question. I have obtained full throttle opening with my '72 TR6 by adjusting the linkage from the cross shaft to the carbs by shortening the linkage rod from the cross shaft to the bell crank (does this make sense?). I now have full opening but the pedal is way high. Has anyone figured out how to lower the pedal by adjusting the linkage from the bell crank to the carbs, or, do I just have to live with it? TIA Sam Clark Green Country Triumphs From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Aug 16 05:59:11 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2012 07:59:11 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Linkage Adjustment Message-ID: <2e29.195aaa69.3d5e3a8f@cs.com> With the stock linkage you are stuck with the pedal travel you got. There are a couple of things you can do, however. If you adjust the pedal stop you can get the pedal to go lower and then you can lengthen the linkage and lower the ends of travel. Another thing is make sure the lost motion at the cross shaft is minimized. As you recall there is a linkage that allows the pedal linkage to overtravel in the closed direction and will allow the carb throttle shafts to come to rest on the idle adjust screws. There is also a stop for the pedal linkage. If you set the linkage stop to a point where you get a lot of pedal movement before you engage the throttle shafts you pedal height when off throttle will be higher than necessary. If you still aren't happy with that then you can consider modifications which will increase the throttle movement to pedal movement ratio. Or you can switch to the RATCO throttle cable kit. Dave In a message dated 8/15/2012 10:04:08 PM Central Daylight Time, trdoctor at aol.com writes: > Recently I have posted questions looking for solutions of obtaining full > throttle opening on my GT6 with a center pull cable accelerator > arrangement > (MKIII). So far, no joy. So . . . I have a new question. I have > obtained > full throttle opening with my '72 TR6 by adjusting the linkage from the > cross > shaft to the carbs by shortening the linkage rod from the cross shaft to > the > bell crank (does this make sense?). I now have full opening but the pedal > is > way high. Has anyone figured out how to lower the pedal by adjusting the > linkage from the bell crank to the carbs, or, do I just have to live with > it? > TIA From auprichard at uprichard.net Thu Aug 16 16:47:30 2012 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2012 18:47:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] indescribable Message-ID: <002f01cd7c01$209464e0$61bd2ea0$@uprichard.net> After more than a half-century on this earth, I thought I had experienced just about everything there was to experience. That was, until I got my TR250 back from the dyno, correctly jetted and with 160bhp at the wheels. Not that I intend to set speed records, but the sheer exhilaration of driving the car after a 4-year restoration effort defies definitions. Shifting through those gears and feeling the smoothness of that engine (I love my TR3, but these 6 cylinders just exude power). Sorry everyone, but this is why I love these cars. Unbelievable. Andrew Uprichard 1962 TR3B 1968 TR250 1957 smallmouth (undergoing restoration) From glemon at neb.rr.com Thu Aug 16 18:48:37 2012 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2012 19:48:37 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] indescribable In-Reply-To: <002f01cd7c01$209464e0$61bd2ea0$@uprichard.net> References: <002f01cd7c01$209464e0$61bd2ea0$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <73664A3AEF7E46C7AB3DC24CC83DA6DB@GregPC> Sounds wonderful, congrats, nothing like things working well after you put them back together, inquiring minds want to know what you did to get 160 bhp and how it runs, smooth idle or lumpy, etc.? Thanks Greg Lemon TR250 (pushing out an estimated 120-125) From lang at isis.mit.edu Thu Aug 16 19:39:19 2012 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2012 21:39:19 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] [6pack] indescribable In-Reply-To: <002f01cd7c01$209464e0$61bd2ea0$@uprichard.net> References: <002f01cd7c01$209464e0$61bd2ea0$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: As they say on Facebook - LIKE!!! gratZ. rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent Former NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- On Thu, 16 Aug 2012, Andrew Uprichard wrote: > After more than a half-century on this earth, I thought I had experienced > just about everything there was to experience. That was, until I got my > TR250 back from the dyno, correctly jetted and with 160bhp at the wheels. > Not that I intend to set speed records, but the sheer exhilaration of > driving the car after a 4-year restoration effort defies definitions. > Shifting through those gears and feeling the smoothness of that engine (I > love my TR3, but these 6 cylinders just exude power). > > Sorry everyone, but this is why I love these cars. Unbelievable. > > Andrew Uprichard > 1962 TR3B > 1968 TR250 > 1957 smallmouth (undergoing restoration) > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/lang at isis.mit.edu From lang at isis.mit.edu Thu Aug 16 19:43:53 2012 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2012 21:43:53 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] [6pack] indescribable In-Reply-To: <002f01cd7c01$209464e0$61bd2ea0$@uprichard.net> References: <002f01cd7c01$209464e0$61bd2ea0$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: 160 to the wheels... prey, do tell. rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent Former NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From auprichard at uprichard.net Fri Aug 17 05:36:28 2012 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2012 07:36:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] indescribable In-Reply-To: References: <002f01cd7c01$209464e0$61bd2ea0$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <004601cd7c6c$8c0ee130$a42ca390$@uprichard.net> To Bob and the many others who asked: I owe most of this story to my cousin, Darryl Uprichard, owner of Racetorations in the UK (no financial interest). We talked about the possibilities for the car and he came up with a menu of options for performance versus cost. We settled on +60 forged pistons, cam bearings and a fast-road cam, the head was ported, we went with triple 40 DCOE Webers and we fitted a stainless steel header. Other additions included an electronic distributor, a lightened flywheel and an alloy sump. The car was dyno'd locally: the shop had no experience with Webers, but Racetorations sent a box of jets from which we chose airs, mains and idles and returned the rest. This made a huge difference: for the person who asked, the car now accelerates smoothly throughout the range. Andrew -----Original Message----- From: Robert M. Lang [mailto:lang at isis.mit.edu] Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2012 9:44 PM To: Andrew Uprichard Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] indescribable 160 to the wheels... prey, do tell. rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent Former NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From dmb993 at earthlink.net Fri Aug 17 06:04:05 2012 From: dmb993 at earthlink.net (david brady) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2012 08:04:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] indescribable In-Reply-To: <004601cd7c6c$8c0ee130$a42ca390$@uprichard.net> References: <002f01cd7c01$209464e0$61bd2ea0$@uprichard.net> <004601cd7c6c$8c0ee130$a42ca390$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <502E3335.6060005@earthlink.net> Congrats Andrew, those are terrific numbers. I have a TR250 with similar modifications and dyno-ed at 155 rear wheel brake horsepower. My problem is that I've never been able to get the triple webers to run right - big wide flat spot in the middle rpm range and when getting on the accelerator... It'd be great if you could post your choke, jet sizes, accelerator pumps, etc. Thanks, David Brady '68 TR250, CD8124L From lang at isis.mit.edu Fri Aug 17 07:50:27 2012 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2012 09:50:27 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] [6pack] indescribable In-Reply-To: <004601cd7c6c$8c0ee130$a42ca390$@uprichard.net> References: <002f01cd7c01$209464e0$61bd2ea0$@uprichard.net> <004601cd7c6c$8c0ee130$a42ca390$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: Hi - believe it or not, I more or less assumed there was a connection to Racetorations. Family connection: even better! What sort of chassis dyno were you running on? And - we assume a free-flow exhaust, but what compression ratio are you running? And last - what size chokes are you running. Last - what's the torque peak? regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent Former NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From Chip19474 at aol.com Fri Aug 17 09:08:55 2012 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2012 11:08:55 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] indescribable Message-ID: Andrew, I did a lot of engine mods to my TR6 motor during restoration and, unfortunately never had a chance to dyno it. I know that it took a few miles to get it sorted out (carb needles, adjustments, timing,etc.) so what did you do and how was the sorting out process!!?? Oh....big congrats and hope you have many miles enjoying the power:) Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U In a message dated 8/16/2012 6:48:48 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, auprichard at uprichard.net writes: That was, until I got my TR250 back from the dyno, correctly jetted and with 160bhp at the wheels. From n197tr4 at cs.com Fri Aug 17 09:31:58 2012 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2012 11:31:58 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] [6pack] indescribable.....Now "CALIFORNIA AIR" In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CF4AA4920B726A-154C-5BE33@webmail-d093.sysops.aol.com> Lists: The ultimate TR250 is featured on a new DVD by UK's John Clancy (TR250K) Kas Kastner's US/TRIUMPH Competition Years...including footage of the recent Kastner Cup The website triumphdvd.co.uk It includes YOUTUBE trailers of all of his TRIUMPH DVDs. Can be ordered directly from John in the UK or through Ted Schumacher or A.R.E. in NORTH AMERICA From trmarty at hotmail.com Fri Aug 17 10:54:53 2012 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2012 12:54:53 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] indescribable.....Now "CALIFORNIA AIR" In-Reply-To: <8CF4AA4920B726A-154C-5BE33@webmail-d093.sysops.aol.com> References: , <8CF4AA4920B726A-154C-5BE33@webmail-d093.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: And lets not forget those awesome drivers interviews! I'm not sure how I pulled that one off, I think Evelyn must have slipped him a twenty behind my back. THANKS JOHN. Marty > To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net > From: n197tr4 at cs.com > Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2012 11:31:58 -0400 > CC: bfcc at hotmail.co.uk > Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] indescribable.....Now "CALIFORNIA AIR" > > Lists: > > The ultimate TR250 is featured on a new DVD by UK's John Clancy (TR250K) > > Kas Kastner's US/TRIUMPH Competition Years...including footage of the recent > Kastner Cup > > The website triumphdvd.co.uk > > It includes YOUTUBE trailers of all of his TRIUMPH DVDs. > > > Can be ordered directly from John in the UK or through Ted Schumacher or > A.R.E. in NORTH AMERICA > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/trmarty at hotmail.com From Chip19474 at aol.com Fri Aug 17 13:56:02 2012 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2012 15:56:02 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Look What Chip Bought Today! Message-ID: <10a7b.6218b134.3d5ffbd2@aol.com> As the saying goes: I was in the right place at the right time. The owner posted the car on Craigslist Thursday evening....I saw it on Craigslist this morning - drove up to see it and left a deposit - should be able to pick it up next week sometime (after I get insurance card). 1962 TR4 - early car CT2052L.....restored.....so far only two things need to be sorted: it needs a new steering column universal rubber and I don't think the radiator fan extension is from a TR4 - the fan is only about 1/2" from the radiator - way too close. The owner lives in Red Hill, has owned the car since 1991 - he's not a member of DVT....his wife is ill - he doesn't have much opportunity to drive the car.....$12,000! [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_1248.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_1249.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_1250.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_1251.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_1252.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_1253.JPG] From yellowtr at adelphia.net Fri Aug 17 14:11:28 2012 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2012 16:11:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] Look What Chip Bought Today! In-Reply-To: <10a7b.6218b134.3d5ffbd2@aol.com> References: <10a7b.6218b134.3d5ffbd2@aol.com> Message-ID: <502EA570.5020507@adelphia.net> Chip, Sounds like a great deal but could you post the pics on the forum? The Team Net server removes all attachments. Would like to see the car. Got to love those TR4s. Not to many of them around anymore. Steering block is easy to replace, just use a clamp when attaching the bolts. And dont forget the horn ground strap. Is the fan the TR3 version or the TR4? I think some of those early 4s had the 3 fan. Bob On 08/17/2012 03:56 PM, Chip19474 at aol.com wrote: > As the saying goes: I was in the right place at the right time. The owner > posted the car on Craigslist Thursday evening....I saw it on Craigslist > this morning - drove up to see it and left a deposit - should be able to pick > it up next week sometime (after I get insurance card). > > 1962 TR4 - early car CT2052L.....restored.....so far only two things need > to be sorted: it needs a new steering column universal rubber and I don't > think the radiator fan extension is from a TR4 - the fan is only about 1/2" > from the radiator - way too close. > > The owner lives in Red Hill, has owned the car since 1991 - he's not a > member of DVT....his wife is ill - he doesn't have much opportunity to drive > the car.....$12,000! From tr3a.60 at gmail.com Fri Aug 17 16:02:32 2012 From: tr3a.60 at gmail.com (John Wise) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2012 18:02:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Tires Message-ID: I know this has been asked & answered a bunch of times, but what is recommended tire for a 60 TR3A with good solid wire wheels? What are the reputable online sources for them. The look of the traditional Michelin X take me back to my years in college when I had my first 60 TR3A. :-| John Wise Ormond BeCH, FL 1960 TR3A 1977 Porsche 911S From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Fri Aug 17 16:41:00 2012 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2012 15:41:00 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Tires In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On Fri, Aug 17, 2012 at 3:02 PM, John Wise wrote: > I know this has been asked & answered a bunch of times, but what is > recommended tire for a 60 TR3A with good solid wire wheels? What are the > reputable online sources for them. > For an inexpensive tire -- I got Nexens from these guys... Tires Easy Nexens on the TR3A Have been quite satisfied with them -- quiet, handle well, wear well, easy to balance, etc. For more $$, more tire: Vredestein Sprint Classic > The look of the traditional Michelin X take me back to my years in college > when I had my first 60 TR3A. > Michelin XZX From don.hiscock at gmail.com Fri Aug 17 20:00:44 2012 From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2012 21:00:44 -0500 Subject: [TR] 1957 Triumph TR3 American Tour of Europe video link Message-ID: Cross posting this link from the Triumph Register forum for those who haven't seen it yet. Nice to have some video of these cars when they were new. http://bps.britishpathe.com/hls-vod/flash/00000000/00082000/00082794.mp4.m3u8 Don 1962 TR3B TSF202L From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca Sat Aug 18 18:48:50 2012 From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (Art McEwen) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2012 20:48:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] tr3 tires In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <712B76C1-7D35-4CE0-B2AB-15D4C44F29E0@cogeco.ca> Nexen's don't look out of place in that pic. My dunlops are on their last season. :( Anybody had any experience with nangkang http://www.discounttiredirect.com/direct/findTireDetail.do?pc=10072&counter=1 &ar=80&rd=15&sw=false&cs=165 Sent from my iPad On 2012-08-18, at 2:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > > For an inexpensive tire -- I got Nexens from these guys... > > Tires Easy > > Nexens on the TR3A > > Have been quite satisfied with them -- quiet, handle well, wear well, easy > to balance, etc. > > For more $$, more tire: > > Vredestein Sprint > Classic From dave at ranteer.com Sat Aug 18 19:44:55 2012 From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2012 20:44:55 -0500 Subject: [TR] open trailer available In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <318423B7389849B691034A1835EAA42B@Spitfire> I'm running an empty trailer suitable for an lbc from dallas to tuscaloosa next friday. if you need a car moved I can make you a great deal dave northrup dallas, tx From wbeech at flash.net Sat Aug 18 20:34:42 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2012 21:34:42 -0500 Subject: [TR] tr3 tires In-Reply-To: <712B76C1-7D35-4CE0-B2AB-15D4C44F29E0@cogeco.ca> References: <712B76C1-7D35-4CE0-B2AB-15D4C44F29E0@cogeco.ca> Message-ID: Yes, I have Nankangs on my car now, whitewalls from DiamondBack Tires, they have performed just great. I had a set of black wall Nankangs before that, excellent performance. Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby" '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" www.triumphowners.com/1566 '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" "If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow" M.Andretti -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Art McEwen Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2012 7:49 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] tr3 tires Nexen's don't look out of place in that pic. My dunlops are on their last season. :( Anybody had any experience with nangkang http://www.discounttiredirect.com/direct/findTireDetail.do?pc=10072&counter= 1 &ar=80&rd=15&sw=false&cs=165 Sent from my iPad On 2012-08-18, at 2:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > > For an inexpensive tire -- I got Nexens from these guys... > > Tires Easy > > Nexens on the TR3A > > > Have been quite satisfied with them -- quiet, handle well, wear well, > easy to balance, etc. > > For more $$, more tire: > > Vredestein Sprint > Classic ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From don.hiscock at gmail.com Sun Aug 19 08:13:18 2012 From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2012 10:13:18 -0400 Subject: [TR] 1957 Triumph TR3 American Tour of Europe video link In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hmm... I tried the link on my iPad before sending, and it continues to work perfectly, but a few pm's have indicated that it doesn't work for some others. Must be a PC v i-device thing. Here's a link from a Google search using the terms "british pathe triumph tour of europe 1957". It may me more amenable to PC settings for those who haven't seen the video before. http://www.britishpathe.com/video/americans-collect-their-triumph-cars Regards, Don 1962 TR3B TSF202qL On Fri, Aug 17, 2012 at 10:00 PM, Don Hiscock wrote: > Cross posting this link from the Triumph Register forum for those who > haven't seen it yet. Nice to have some video of these cars when they > were new. > > > http://bps.britishpathe.com/hls-vod/flash/00000000/00082000/00082794.mp4.m3u8 > > Don > 1962 TR3B TSF202L From greg at gelhar.com Sun Aug 19 11:27:42 2012 From: greg at gelhar.com (Greg Gelhar) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2012 12:27:42 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 horns References: <2e29.195aaa69.3d5e3a8f@cs.com> Message-ID: O.K. guys, here is a question I've not seen posted before. I want to clean and adjust ten TR3 Windtone horns. I am working out of a quiet suburban residential neighborhood garage and don't want to irritate the other home owners. Has anyone got ideas how I can keep the noise to myself? Greg G. Osseo, MN From levilevi at comcast.net Sun Aug 19 11:33:41 2012 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2012 11:33:41 -0600 Subject: [TR] Surrogate buyer near Sussex County, NJ? Message-ID: List, Anyone know who the 6pack surrogate buyer is for areas near Sussex Co. NJ. Thanks Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk Sun Aug 19 11:42:43 2012 From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2012 18:42:43 +0100 (BST) Subject: [TR] 1957 Triumph TR3 American Tour of Europe video link In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1345398163.21863.YahooMailNeo@web29404.mail.ird.yahoo.com> And anyone who's interested in seeing Heralds and Spitfires being built (if not already seen) will find a good short film taken in the 'new' assembly hall built in 1959 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f-b_HzLbzJc&feature=related Typing Standard Motor Company into the search bar will probably turn up more than inserting Triumph on its own Jonmac http://standard-triumph-books.co.uk >________________________________ > From: Don Hiscock >To: Triumphs >Sent: Sunday, 19 August 2012, 15:13 >Subject: Re: [TR] 1957 Triumph TR3 American Tour of Europe video link > >Hmm... I tried the link on my iPad before sending, and it continues to work >perfectly, but a few pm's have indicated that it doesn't work for some >others. Must be a PC v i-device thing. > >Here's a link from a Google search using the terms "british pathe triumph >tour of europe 1957". It may me more amenable to PC settings for those who >haven't seen the video before. >http://www.britishpathe.com/video/americans-collect-their-triumph-cars > >Regards, > >Don >1962 TR3B TSF202qL > >On Fri, Aug 17, 2012 at 10:00 PM, Don Hiscock wrote: > >> Cross posting this link from the Triumph Register forum for those who >> haven't seen it yet. Nice to have some video of these cars when they >> were new. >> >> >> http://bps.britishpathe.com/hls-vod/flash/00000000/00082000/00082794.mp4.m3u8 >> >> Don >> 1962 TR3B TSF202L > >** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Sun Aug 19 11:44:28 2012 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2012 10:44:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 horns In-Reply-To: References: <2e29.195aaa69.3d5e3a8f@cs.com> Message-ID: I suppose you could 'stuff a sock in it' -- a rolled up sock or rag jammed into the flare of the horn should have the same effect as a mute on a trumpet -- you'll get the sound in a greatly reduced volume. You'll have to estimate the improvement by first listening to the current sound with the sock in place. Geo On Sun, Aug 19, 2012 at 10:27 AM, Greg Gelhar wrote: > O.K. guys, here is a question I've not seen posted before. I want to clean > and adjust ten TR3 Windtone horns. I am working out of a quiet suburban > residential neighborhood garage and don't want to irritate the other home > owners. Has anyone got ideas how I can keep the noise to myself? From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk Sun Aug 19 11:45:04 2012 From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2012 18:45:04 +0100 (BST) Subject: [TR] TR3 horns In-Reply-To: References: <2e29.195aaa69.3d5e3a8f@cs.com> Message-ID: <1345398304.36735.YahooMailNeo@web29403.mail.ird.yahoo.com> Try putting an old pair of someone's undershorts in the bell mouth? Jonmac http://standard-triumph-books.co.uk >________________________________ > From: Greg Gelhar >To: triumphs at autox.team.net >Sent: Sunday, 19 August 2012, 18:27 >Subject: [TR] TR3 horns > >O.K. guys, here is a question I've not seen posted before. I want to clean and adjust ten TR3 Windtone horns. I am working out of a quiet suburban residential neighborhood garage and don't want to irritate the other home owners. Has anyone got ideas how I can keep the noise to myself? > >Greg G. >Osseo, MN >** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk From wbeech at flash.net Sun Aug 19 11:49:57 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2012 12:49:57 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 horns In-Reply-To: References: <2e29.195aaa69.3d5e3a8f@cs.com> Message-ID: <612E17A1-C9D3-4F8B-93B8-D349AA5E3D33@flash.net> You might do all your cleaning then drive out to the shopping mall parking lot. Sent from mobile Bill On Aug 19, 2012, at 12:27 PM, "Greg Gelhar" wrote: > O.K. guys, here is a question I've not seen posted before. I want to clean and adjust ten TR3 Windtone horns. I am working out of a quiet suburban residential neighborhood garage and don't want to irritate the other home owners. Has anyone got ideas how I can keep the noise to myself? > > Greg G. > Osseo, MN > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From tjwakeman at gmail.com Sun Aug 19 14:53:19 2012 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2012 13:53:19 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 horns In-Reply-To: <612E17A1-C9D3-4F8B-93B8-D349AA5E3D33@flash.net> References: <2e29.195aaa69.3d5e3a8f@cs.com> <612E17A1-C9D3-4F8B-93B8-D349AA5E3D33@flash.net> Message-ID: <5031523F.6030602@gmail.com> Test them out in the engine bay with the bonnet down. They are seldom heard more than a car length away. I ebayed mine and replaced them with air horns out of a mid sixties Maserati. MUCH MORE NOTICABLE. TeriAnn My TR3 speaks with an upper class Italian accent. But at least it is heard. From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Sun Aug 19 15:36:17 2012 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2012 14:36:17 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] soda or bead blast Message-ID: <1345412177.33804.YahooMailNeo@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> working on a friends 49 mayflower. trying to clean up the undercarriage. no rot. little surface rust. original california car. lots of desert dirt and grime lots of undercoat. whats the best way to get back to bare metal? or just clean the undercoat to accept another coat where it flakes off? known locations in southern california that do this work? other options and opinions welcomed thanks Frank From guy at genfiniti.com Sun Aug 19 16:20:22 2012 From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2012 17:20:22 -0500 Subject: [TR] soda or bead blast In-Reply-To: <1345412177.33804.YahooMailNeo@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1345412177.33804.YahooMailNeo@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <51C43CD8-1FA1-4C68-91AF-7CC84110AB98@genfiniti.com> Frank, I took all of my steel to a place here in Arlington, Texas called "Metal Rehab". Maybe you check them out and then find their equal where you are.. On Aug 19, 2012, at 4:36 PM, Frank Fisher wrote: > working on a friends 49 mayflower. > trying to clean up the undercarriage. > no rot. > little surface rust. original california car. > lots of desert dirt and grime > lots of undercoat. > whats the best way to get back to bare metal? > or just clean the undercoat to accept another coat where it flakes off? > known locations in southern california that do this work? > other options and opinions welcomed > thanks > Frank > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/guy at genfiniti.com From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com Sun Aug 19 16:39:03 2012 From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2012 15:39:03 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] soda or bead blast In-Reply-To: <1345412177.33804.YahooMailNeo@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1345412177.33804.YahooMailNeo@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1345415943.85521.YahooMailNeo@web120701.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Frank- Any kind of abrasive blast will turn the old remaining undercoat to "goo". If you want to clean it off, you'll have to use putty knives, heat, solvent, and a lot of sweat equity. After its off, a good pressure wash and a coat of POR15 undercarriage paint ought to do it. Chad in Tulsa From: Frank Fisher To: Triumphs Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2012 4:36 PM Subject: [TR] soda or bead blast working on a friends 49 mayflower. trying to clean up the undercarriage. no rot. little surface rust. original california car. lots of desert dirt and grime lots of undercoat. whats the best way to get back to bare metal? or just clean the undercoat to accept another coat where it flakes off? known locations in southern california that do this work? other options and opinions welcomed thanks Frank ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com From spamiam at comcast.net Sun Aug 19 17:28:32 2012 From: spamiam at comcast.net (Anthony Rhodes) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2012 19:28:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Horns Message-ID: I stuff the outlet of the horns with paper towel. And I adjust only one at a time. I unplug the other. -Tony From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Sun Aug 19 18:07:52 2012 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2012 17:07:52 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] carb insulators Message-ID: <1345421272.89413.YahooMailNeo@web65511.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Just wondering how important the carb insulator sections are that go between the SU's and the intake manifold (tr-3) Looks like they maybe be asbestos but not sure and they're maybe 1/4 inch thick. I have a longer intake manifold and can use the extra space for the carbs/firewall area. Just wondering about heat interference issues. thanks gary n. From spitlist at cox.net Sun Aug 19 19:58:06 2012 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2012 18:58:06 -0700 Subject: [TR] Dave Willner Message-ID: Sorry to bomb the list, but could Dave Willner contact me. My cell phone number is 520-471-1336 Thanks, Joe Curry From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Sun Aug 19 10:23:05 2012 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2012 09:23:05 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] 1957 Triumph TR3 American Tour of Europe video link In-Reply-To: References: <1345384649.69143.YahooMailNeo@web39405.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1345393385.26931.YahooMailNeo@web39402.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hi Don! Thanks for the quick reply & the link that I was able to open up. Great watching & seeing the 50's style of dress. It brings back memories of how life was back then & the family that I had. I hope the rest of the list viewed it. -Cosmo Kramer >________________________________ > From: Don Hiscock >Subject: Re: 1957 Triumph TR3 American Tour of Europe video link > >Hmm... I tried the link on my iPad, and it works perfectly. Must be a PC v i- device thing. If you had the problem, most likely many others did too. I'l repost to the list. > >Here's a link from a Google search using the terms "british pathe triumph tour of europe 1957". It may me more amenable to PC settings. >http://www.britishpathe.com/video/americans-collect-their-triumph-cars > >Don > > > >On 8/19/12, Cosmo Kramer wrote: >> Hi Don! >> I don't know what I'm doing wrong, because when I clicked on your link, I >> received a pop- up message that stated that "Windows can NOT open this up". >> >> So could you send me the correct link to open it up? >> TIA, >> -Cosmo Kramer From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Mon Aug 20 06:25:08 2012 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 05:25:08 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] 1957 Triumph TR3 American Tour of Europe video link In-Reply-To: <1345393385.26931.YahooMailNeo@web39402.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <1345384649.69143.YahooMailNeo@web39405.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <1345393385.26931.YahooMailNeo@web39402.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1345465508.83567.YahooMailNeo@web120201.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> it is a cool look back to times that seemed so much better. more footage of same on the triumphs across America DVD. From: Cosmo Kramer To: Don Hiscock Cc: "triumphs at autox.team.net" Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2012 9:23 AM Subject: Re: [TR] 1957 Triumph TR3 American Tour of Europe video link Hi Don! Thanks for the quick reply & the link that I was able to open up. Great watching & seeing the 50's style of dress. It brings back memories of how life was back then & the family that I had. I hope the rest of the list viewed it. -Cosmo Kramer >________________________________ > From: Don Hiscock >Subject: Re: 1957 Triumph TR3 American Tour of Europe video link > >Hmm... I tried the link on my iPad, and it works perfectly. Must be a PC v i- device thing. If you had the problem, most likely many others did too. I'l repost to the list. > >Here's a link from a Google search using the terms "british pathe triumph tour of europe 1957". It may me more amenable to PC settings. >http://www.britishpathe.com/video/americans-collect-their-triumph-cars > >Don > > > >On 8/19/12, Cosmo Kramer wrote: >> Hi Don! >> I don't know what I'm doing wrong, because when I clicked on your link, I >> received a pop- up message that stated that "Windows can NOT open this up". >> >> So could you send me the correct link to open it up? >> TIA, >> -Cosmo Kramer ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From trmarty at hotmail.com Mon Aug 20 12:21:56 2012 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 14:21:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Values Message-ID: A buddy is coming over and wants me to give him some guidance on the value of his TR6 as he rarely ever drives it and would rather have the cash and parking space instead of the car. I have had no need to follow what they have been selling for recently so I'm not sure what help I am going to be. Best I can recall I would classify it as a really nice driver. He restored it within the last 10 years. Not a class winner at a VTR event but nicer than anything I have owned. Anybody bought or sold a nice driver in the last year or so that can give me some feedback? Thanks, Marty From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Mon Aug 20 13:33:25 2012 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 14:33:25 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 Values Message-ID: <10235614.940724.1345491205777.JavaMail.root@vznit170176> Did a quick search of completed auctions on ebay http://motors.completed.shop.ebay.com/Cars-Trucks-/6001/i.html?_ipg=200&_sadis=200&LH_SALE_CURRENCY=0&_samihi=&_samilow=&_fpos=&_oexkw=&_udhi=&_udlo=&_adv=1&_sop=12&LH_Complete=1&_dmd=1&_okw=&_fsct=&_nkw=tr6 sold only: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1971-Triumph-TR6-Triple-Webers-Desirable-early-model-/300761567413?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item4606c950b5 $3000 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1971-TRUIMPH-ROASTER-CONV-/230836786218?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item35bef1d42a $9750 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1970-TRIUMPH-TR-6-CONVERTIBLE-/230836824313?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item35bef268f9 $4050 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NICE-1974-TRIUMPH-TR6-ORIGINAL-ENGINE-RUNS-GOOD-VERY-SOLID-LOW-RESERVE-/360479684987?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item53ee43797b $5400 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1973-Triumph-TR-6-Good-restoration-car-parts-LOW-RESERVE-/200803764932?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item2ec0d64ac4 $1825 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1973-Triumph-TR6-Restored-Body-Good-drivetrain-/140817981891?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item20c967e1c3 $4550 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1972-Triumph-TR-6-Great-Condition-Solid-Car-/261078263727?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item3cc97a27af $6550 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1974-triumph-tr6-RUNS-GOOD-PROJECT-NO-RESERVE-/200802335119?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item2ec0c0798f $1225 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NICE-1974-TRIUMPH-TR6-ORIGINAL-ENGINE-RUNS-GOOD-VERY-SOLID-LOW-RESERVE-/360479384924?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item53ee3ee55c $5500 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CLEAN-AND-FAST-1972-TRIUMPH-TR6-CALIFORNIA-MGB-914-PORSCHE-SPRITE-/221092437017?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item337a22dc19 $13500 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1970-TRIUMPH-TR-6-CONVERTIBLE-/230832927462?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item35beb6f2e6 $5000 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1971-Triumph-Tr6-Frame-Off-Nut-Bolt-Restoration-Show-Car-Extremely-Nice-Buy-Now-/230834545459?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item35becfa333 $16999 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/red-conv-excelent-condition-there-no-leaks-runs-perfect-/110926284951?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item19d3b8c897 $13400 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1973-Triumph-TR-6-frame-off-restoration-no-reserve-Little-white-lightning-/221085418675?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item3379b7c4b3 $6801 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Triumph-TR6-/190708901405?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item2c6722e61d $12300 That is since Aug 5. (15 of 55 sold - most of the unsold had higher reserves which may mean overpriced - see first link for full list). except in unusual circumstances I would say ebay prices would qualify as 'wholesale'. Hope this helps. On 08/20/12, marty sukey wrote: A buddy is coming over and wants me to give him some guidance on the value of his TR6 as he rarely ever drives it and would rather have the cash and parking space instead of the car. I have had no need to follow what they have been selling for recently so I'm not sure what help I am going to be. Best I can recall I would classify it as a really nice driver. He restored it within the last 10 years. Not a class winner at a VTR event but nicer than anything I have owned. Anybody bought or sold a nice driver in the last year or so that can give me some feedback? Thanks, Marty ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net From lgmtr6 at yahoo.com Mon Aug 20 18:38:35 2012 From: lgmtr6 at yahoo.com (Triumph List) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 20:38:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Values In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I helped a friend sell his original owner 73 TR6 last year. Beautiful car which had been repainted, new interior, new top, rebuilt a engine and transmission and fully detailed engine bay. Not a frame off restoration, but it won many a parking lot trophy. In other words a really nice nice driver. It sold for $15k. I think is was a great deal for the buyer. Larry Miceli Mount Dora, Florida Sent from my iPhone On Aug 20, 2012, at 2:21 PM, marty sukey wrote: > A buddy is coming over and wants me to give him some guidance on the value of > his TR6 as he rarely ever drives it and would rather have the cash and parking > space instead of the car. I have had no need to follow what they have been > selling for recently so I'm not sure what help I am going to be. Best I can > recall I would classify it as a really nice driver. He restored it within > the last 10 years. Not a class winner at a VTR event but nicer than anything I > have owned. Anybody bought or sold a nice driver in the last year or so that > can give me some feedback? > > Thanks, > Marty > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/lgmtr6 at yahoo.com From trdoctor at aol.com Mon Aug 20 19:02:58 2012 From: trdoctor at aol.com (Sam) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 20:02:58 -0500 Subject: [TR] Brakes Message-ID: I took the TR6 out today after adjusting the rear brakes. The parking brake was not holding properly so I tightened both sides up two clicks. Upon reaching the bottom of my driveway the car stopped itself. So. . . under the car and backed them both off one click and went for a drive. When I reached end of the street the pedal was low and I pumped it up and it was firm. I drove it for a few miles and the pedal was fading to the floor. It would pump up and hold firm for a moment then fade away again. I got the car home and looked underneath to see if I could spot any leaks that were obvious. Nothing. Master was full. My experience tells me this is an internal master cylinder leak. The pedal holds firm and then fades. Any other advice before I jump on the internet and order a new one? TIA From McGaheyRx at aol.com Mon Aug 20 19:20:16 2012 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (Jack Mc) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 21:20:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] Brakes In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <08A6CB2A-197F-4824-83CB-B4FB5AB1346E@aol.com> Sent from my iPad On Aug 20, 2012, at 9:02 PM, Sam wrote: > Any other advice before > I jump on the internet and order a new one? Yes Don't order a new one - a lot of them are defective out of the box these days - send that one off and get it re-sleeved with brass and never worry about it again. Cheers From fishplate at charter.net Mon Aug 20 19:23:07 2012 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 21:23:07 -0400 Subject: [TR] Brakes In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5032E2FB.5070301@charter.net> On 8/20/2012 9:02 PM, Sam wrote: > The pedal holds firm and then fades. Any other advice before > I jump on the internet and order a new one? If the brakes heat up from being too tight, won't the cylinders get hot and cause brake fade> From trdoctor at aol.com Mon Aug 20 20:15:02 2012 From: trdoctor at aol.com (Sam) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 21:15:02 -0500 Subject: [TR] Brakes In-Reply-To: <08A6CB2A-197F-4824-83CB-B4FB5AB1346E@aol.com> References: <08A6CB2A-197F-4824-83CB-B4FB5AB1346E@aol.com> Message-ID: <53F87E0B-925D-4319-B848-B73DAB93577F@aol.com> Do they have them in stock or do I need to send mine in? I know there is a core charge. Just thinking about the exchange time. Also, send it where? Apple, White Post. . . ? Sam On Aug 20, 2012, at 8:20 PM, Jack Mc wrote: > > > Sent from my iPad > > On Aug 20, 2012, at 9:02 PM, Sam wrote: > >> Any other advice before >> I jump on the internet and order a new one? > > > > Yes > Don't order a new one - a lot of them are defective out of the box these days - send that one off and get it re-sleeved with brass and never worry about it again. > Cheers > Jack Mc From trdoctor at aol.com Mon Aug 20 20:16:52 2012 From: trdoctor at aol.com (Sam) Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2012 21:16:52 -0500 Subject: [TR] Brakes In-Reply-To: <08A6CB2A-197F-4824-83CB-B4FB5AB1346E@aol.com> References: <08A6CB2A-197F-4824-83CB-B4FB5AB1346E@aol.com> Message-ID: <0285C5A4-664F-4BFC-A1E0-42C6500A1F44@aol.com> BTW, I am using DOT5 and have been for years. Sam On Aug 20, 2012, at 8:20 PM, Jack Mc wrote: > > > Sent from my iPad > > On Aug 20, 2012, at 9:02 PM, Sam wrote: > >> Any other advice before >> I jump on the internet and order a new one? > > > > Yes > Don't order a new one - a lot of them are defective out of the box these days - send that one off and get it re-sleeved with brass and never worry about it again. > Cheers > Jack Mc From cak at dimebank.com Tue Aug 21 12:30:03 2012 From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2012 11:30:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] Brakes In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5033D3AB.6080000@dimebank.com> > Do they have them in stock or do I need to send mine in? I know there is a > core charge. Just thinking about the exchange time. Also, send it where? > Apple, White Post. . . ? Sierra Specialty is the winner. http://www.dimebank.com/monster/burst/00616.html From bill_beecher at flash.net Tue Aug 21 15:32:28 2012 From: bill_beecher at flash.net (bill_beecher at flash.net) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2012 16:32:28 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Gauges Message-ID: <076EA99E6D674C2092C259654DC1516A@bboffice> Is there an economical alternative to the stock Jaeger gauges for a TR3 that look reasonable period? I have seen sets that will fit but they all look very modern. Thanks, Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby" '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" www.triumphowners.com/1566 '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" "If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow" M.Andretti From McGaheyRx at aol.com Tue Aug 21 15:44:40 2012 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (Jack Mc) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2012 17:44:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] Brakes In-Reply-To: <5033D3AB.6080000@dimebank.com> References: <5033D3AB.6080000@dimebank.com> Message-ID: Looks like they're $20 higher than Apple Hydraulic (for a brake master) and higher shipping and longer turn around for us east coasters. Sent from my iPad On Aug 21, 2012, at 2:30 PM, Chris Kantarjiev wrote: >> Do they have them in stock or do I need to send mine in? I know there is a >> core charge. Just thinking about the exchange time. Also, send it where? >> Apple, White Post. . . ? > > Sierra Specialty is the winner. > > http://www.dimebank.com/monster/burst/00616.html > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mcgaheyrx at aol.com From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk Tue Aug 21 16:12:06 2012 From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2012 23:12:06 +0100 (BST) Subject: [TR] The mad Brits are at it again Message-ID: <1345587126.4766.YahooMailNeo@web29404.mail.ird.yahoo.com> This post has no Triumph content - but it will be a triumph for car and driver if the plan succeeds, as I surely hope it will. http://www.usa-coast2coast.com/ will tell you the plan that Joy Rainey has to drive her 1903 (4?) Oldsmobile from Los Angeles CA to Daytona FL (I think) in April/May 2013. The website gives you a day by day itinerary and if she's passing through your 'manor' at all, turn out and give her a cheer. It was one thing doing a similar (and longer trip) in a rebuilt Stag, it's quite another doing it in something that's officially an antique. Jonmac From McGaheyRx at aol.com Tue Aug 21 16:22:55 2012 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2012 18:22:55 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] The mad Brits are at it again Message-ID: <4ff14.4531e92a.3d65643f@aol.com> oh my goodness could she possibly have picked a hotter route for a summertime trip across the USA? I don't think so. just proves - only Mad dogs and Englishmen... Cheers, Jack Mc In a message dated 8/21/2012 6:12:13 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk writes: This post has no Triumph content - but it will be a triumph for car and driver if the plan succeeds, as I surely hope it will. http://www.usa-coast2coast.com/ will tell you the plan that Joy Rainey has to drive her 1903 (4?) Oldsmobile from Los Angeles CA to Daytona FL (I think) in April/May 2013. The website gives you a day by day itinerary and if she's passing through your 'manor' at all, turn out and give her a cheer. It was one thing doing a similar (and longer trip) in a rebuilt Stag, it's quite another doing it in something that's officially an antique. Jonmac ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mcgaheyrx at aol.com From wbeech at flash.net Tue Aug 21 16:44:13 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2012 17:44:13 -0500 Subject: [TR] The mad Brits are at it again In-Reply-To: <4ff14.4531e92a.3d65643f@aol.com> References: <4ff14.4531e92a.3d65643f@aol.com> Message-ID: <08757D86336249928D197C147D19C1CF@bboffice> Could have been much worse, she's coming through Texas in April/May and not July/August. I see the route is coming close by, I have set a reminder to check again in the spring. Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of McGaheyRx at aol.com Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2012 5:23 PM To: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] The mad Brits are at it again oh my goodness could she possibly have picked a hotter route for a summertime trip across the USA? I don't think so. just proves - only Mad dogs and Englishmen... Cheers, Jack Mc In a message dated 8/21/2012 6:12:13 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk writes: This post has no Triumph content - but it will be a triumph for car and driver if the plan succeeds, as I surely hope it will. http://www.usa-coast2coast.com/ will tell you the plan that Joy Rainey has to drive her 1903 (4?) Oldsmobile from Los Angeles CA to Daytona FL (I think) in April/May 2013. The website gives you a day by day itinerary and if she's passing through your 'manor' at all, turn out and give her a cheer. It was one thing doing a similar (and longer trip) in a rebuilt Stag, it's quite another doing it in something that's officially an antique. Jonmac ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mcgaheyrx at aol.com ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From zoboherald at aol.com Tue Aug 21 18:24:11 2012 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace) Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2012 20:24:11 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 Gauges In-Reply-To: <076EA99E6D674C2092C259654DC1516A@bboffice> References: <076EA99E6D674C2092C259654DC1516A@bboffice> Message-ID: <8CF4E139642A552-1448-A83E8@webmail-d032.sysops.aol.com> Google "Stewart Warner gauges"! --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us -----Original Message----- From: bill_beecher Is there an economical alternative to the stock Jaeger gauges for a TR3 that look reasonable period? I have seen sets that will fit but they all look very modern. From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Wed Aug 22 16:18:46 2012 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2012 15:18:46 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 Gauges In-Reply-To: <076EA99E6D674C2092C259654DC1516A@bboffice> References: <076EA99E6D674C2092C259654DC1516A@bboffice> Message-ID: <1345673926.80623.YahooMailNeo@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> not at all economical but i have a hankering for these gages http://www.gaugeguys.com/Smiths/magnolia.htm Frank From: "bill_beecher at flash.net" To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2012 2:32 PM Subject: [TR] TR3 Gauges Is there an economical alternative to the stock Jaeger gauges for a TR3 that look reasonable period? I have seen sets that will fit but they all look very modern. Thanks, Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby" '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" www.triumphowners.com/1566 '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" "If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow" M.Andretti ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From JPayne at ThorCon.net Wed Aug 22 16:24:30 2012 From: JPayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne) Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2012 22:24:30 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3 Gauges In-Reply-To: <1345673926.80623.YahooMailNeo@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <076EA99E6D674C2092C259654DC1516A@bboffice> <1345673926.80623.YahooMailNeo@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <5891B364A7C3594B9466304B59E65B1C387FE96D@ex1mbx01.onthenetoffice.com> Wow - those look really cool - and reasonably priced too. Just paid $600 to have a 4 in 1 gauge re-done for my Morgan +4, comparatively, these seem like a good deal. Jonas Payne PBR Cell: (702) 358-5084 From bill_beecher at flash.net Wed Aug 22 17:02:01 2012 From: bill_beecher at flash.net (bill_beecher at flash.net) Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2012 18:02:01 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Gauges In-Reply-To: <1345673926.80623.YahooMailNeo@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <076EA99E6D674C2092C259654DC1516A@bboffice> <1345673926.80623.YahooMailNeo@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1D4609D09F324E2EAAFBB3E23F25E731@bboffice> Yes, I saw those and really liked them. I guess economical is a relative term, these are fairly reasonable when put alongside $1000 to have all my originals completely redone. I also found these good looking gauges from Stewart-Warner for under $400. Stewart Warner 82225 - Stewart Warner Wings Analog Gauge Boxed Kits My biggest concern is how accurate will the speedometer be if I don't go with a GPS driven unit for a few extra bucks. Does anyone have any experience in running a cable-driven non-original speedo? Bill _____ From: Frank Fisher [mailto:yellowtr3 at yahoo.com] Sent: Wednesday, August 22, 2012 5:19 PM To: bill_beecher at flash.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Gauges not at all economical but i have a hankering for these gages http://www.gaugeguys.com/Smiths/magnolia.htm Frank From: "bill_beecher at flash.net" To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2012 2:32 PM Subject: [TR] TR3 Gauges Is there an economical alternative to the stock Jaeger gauges for a TR3 that look reasonable period? I have seen sets that will fit but they all look very modern. Thanks, Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby" '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" www.triumphowners.com/1566 '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" "If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow" M.Andretti ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From JPayne at ThorCon.net Wed Aug 22 17:15:36 2012 From: JPayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne) Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2012 23:15:36 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3 Gauges In-Reply-To: <1D4609D09F324E2EAAFBB3E23F25E731@bboffice> References: <076EA99E6D674C2092C259654DC1516A@bboffice> <1345673926.80623.YahooMailNeo@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <1D4609D09F324E2EAAFBB3E23F25E731@bboffice> Message-ID: <5891B364A7C3594B9466304B59E65B1C387FEA78@ex1mbx01.onthenetoffice.com> The same company offering the gauges should offer different gears to go with your rear end setup and wheel/tire size package. Alternatively, I have seen speedo drive "gear sets" that you would put in line between the speedo drive gear and the speedo (short cable to gearset from trans, short cable from gearset to speedo) Needing to modify the ratios for speedo's is a pretty common issue, particularly with the 4x4 offroading set, where tire/wheel/rearend ratios can vary widely. So if the gauge guy can't help, try an offroad shop. Jonas Payne PBR Cell: (702) 358-5084 From triumphstag at gmail.com Wed Aug 22 19:22:31 2012 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy) Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2012 18:22:31 -0700 Subject: [TR] How to bench test a windshield wiper motor Message-ID: Can anyone please test me how to bench test a wiper motor with a park feature? The connector to the wiper had 4 prongs in it. -- Sujit Roy, Realtor Cupertino, CA (408) 839-8359 From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Wed Aug 22 20:22:52 2012 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2012 19:22:52 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] radiator Message-ID: <1345688572.41361.YahooMailNeo@web65505.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> I'm thinking maybe my radiator is crapped out (i'll know in a week or two) and am just wondering if there are alternatives available without spending 400 bucks or more, aftermarket.............salvage yard alternatives?LOL for tr-3. gary n. From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca Wed Aug 22 20:49:17 2012 From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (Art McEwen) Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2012 22:49:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 steel wheel colour Message-ID: <56141388-8E4B-4BCB-9534-592FA3EFF00E@cogeco.ca> Before I put new tires on them I'd like to touch up my wheels. Any idea of a modern paint match to the original gray? Thanks, Art From greg at gelhar.com Wed Aug 22 22:38:06 2012 From: greg at gelhar.com (Greg Gelhar) Date: Wed, 22 Aug 2012 23:38:06 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 steel wheel colour References: <56141388-8E4B-4BCB-9534-592FA3EFF00E@cogeco.ca> Message-ID: <3EF7C4157FDF44E098AF05225CEDCE14@triumph> I really like DUPLI-COLOR high performance wheel coating WP101 Silver. The other brands of wheel paint have to be clear coated otherwise the surface finish is too dull. Greg G. Osseo, MN ----- Original Message ----- From: "Art McEwen" To: Sent: Wednesday, August 22, 2012 9:49 PM Subject: [TR] TR3 steel wheel colour > Before I put new tires on them I'd like to touch up my wheels. Any idea > of a > modern paint match to the original gray? > > Thanks, > > Art > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/greg at gelhar.com From ambritts at bellsouth.net Thu Aug 23 02:25:20 2012 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2012 04:25:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] sign up... Message-ID: <53893D1314D3449F9F5D6A870A913AF1@AlexPC> here is where all the information is on mechanical issues and help. triumph list................ triumphs at autox.team.net Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums http://www.macysgarage.com/ http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/ http://www.triumphrescue.com/ Triumph graveyard and my friend Mike Grove...located in Chambersburg PA Probably 150 Triumphs. Give him my name..... 717-729-0454 The Roadster Factory - get on their mailing list and weekly special email newsletter http://www.the-roadster-factory.com/indexmain.php From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk Thu Aug 23 03:42:25 2012 From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2012 10:42:25 +0100 (BST) Subject: [TR] TR3 Gauges In-Reply-To: <5891B364A7C3594B9466304B59E65B1C387FEA78@ex1mbx01.onthenetoffice.com> References: <076EA99E6D674C2092C259654DC1516A@bboffice> <1345673926.80623.YahooMailNeo@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <1D4609D09F324E2EAAFBB3E23F25E731@bboffice> <5891B364A7C3594B9466304B59E65B1C387FEA78@ex1mbx01.onthenetoffice.com> Message-ID: <1345714945.40582.YahooMailNeo@web29405.mail.ird.yahoo.com> FWIW, thwe magnolia gauges look very nice and certainly 'different.' But a word of warning? A good friend in the who regularly campaigned his TR6 on fundraising events for non-profits found a major disadvantage. He'd had his gauges re-done in magnolia and they were fine for daylight. All Night driving stints were a whole different ballgame. Even with the rheostat turned down low, the speedo and rev counter were still too bright while the central auxiliaries were too dim. I was with him on one of these events and had my turn at the wheel. There was just too much light below my required field of vision, so I turned them off - switching on periodically to check oil pressure and engine temp. We agreed that two rheostats was the answer for auxiliaries and mains - but a pain to do. Dave sold his car for another 6 about a year and a half back and chose to clean all his instruments with LED's and new transparents. As many on this list have already done that with excellent results, I can confirm (for my needs at least) that overhauled 'original' instruments are much more preferable - and let's face it, upgrading to magnolia and then finding its not what you thought it was going to be, is an expensive exercise. But it's your car ................ Jonmac From ambritts at bellsouth.net Thu Aug 23 04:16:59 2012 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2012 06:16:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] Sorry guys Message-ID: <3A1AA806F3724FAEA909640743664295@AlexPC> I was sending some information to a friend who just got a 3 and mistakenly had the list email address as a cc......... Alex Manzo From dixie4.wales at virgin.net Thu Aug 23 12:21:54 2012 From: dixie4.wales at virgin.net (Dixie4) Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2012 19:21:54 +0100 Subject: [TR] Sorry guys In-Reply-To: <3A1AA806F3724FAEA909640743664295@AlexPC> References: <3A1AA806F3724FAEA909640743664295@AlexPC> Message-ID: <79CE24CAEDF44FF2A10AA526E980D9B4@AdrianPC> Do not be sorry I found one of the web sites very interesting. Adrian TR4A CT 64306 O Wales UK ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alex" To: "*Triumphs List" Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2012 11:16 AM Subject: [TR] Sorry guys >I was sending some information to a friend who just got a 3 and mistakenly >had > the list email address as a cc......... > > Alex Manzo > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dixie4.wales at virgin.net From don.hiscock at gmail.com Thu Aug 23 20:46:21 2012 From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2012 21:46:21 -0500 Subject: [TR] Paint codes on TR differential housings to indicate ratio inside? Message-ID: A member of our community mentioned in a side conversation that he's observed, but never quite figured out, the code behind a stripe of paint splashed across the differential housings of sidescreen TRs and TR4s. He had a car with one green stripe -- simply a passing brush stroke from 10:00 to 2:00. About 3/4-inch wide x 3-inches long. His recollection was that this indicated a 4.1 rear end. No idea if there was a corresponding color for a 3.7 rear. Anybody capable of adding to or upgrading that? Don Saint Louis 1962 TR3B TSF202L From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Thu Aug 23 21:14:47 2012 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2012 20:14:47 -0700 Subject: [TR] Paint codes on TR differential housings to indicate ratio inside? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: >From the archives... http://www.team.net/html/triumphs/2006-11/msg00585.html No idea if this was ever substantiated. Geo On Thu, Aug 23, 2012 at 7:46 PM, Don Hiscock wrote: > A member of our community mentioned in a side conversation that he's > observed, but never quite figured out, the code behind a stripe of paint > splashed across the differential housings of sidescreen TRs and TR4s. > > He had a car with one green stripe -- simply a passing brush stroke from > 10:00 to 2:00. About 3/4-inch wide x 3-inches long. His recollection was > that this indicated a 4.1 rear end. No idea if there was a corresponding > color for a 3.7 rear. > > Anybody capable of adding to or upgrading that? > > Don From terryrs at comcast.net Fri Aug 24 15:41:25 2012 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2012 21:41:25 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Overheatng In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <342001455.938795.1345844485628.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> History. Have about three thousand miles on the engine rebuild. When I started it the first time, there was intense squealing for a few seconds that then went way. I figured it for a dry water pump. Squealing has returned. Sounds for all the world like a fan belt issue or a bad bearing on either the water pump or alternator. Tried the stethoscope, couldn't isolate, so swapped out the water pump. Squeal persisted. Stethoscoped the alternator again, couldn't isolate, but then accidently dropped cold water on the alternator and the sound stopped abruptly. What was THAT all about?? So, bought a new GM alternator, adapted it to fit, put the old wide-belt pulley on it, and reinstalled. Same squeal as before. But in the past week, the engine is overheating at idle and in hot weather. I'm running the belt looser than I usually do, but watching the action, the pulleys all seem to be turning, but am wondering if they're not going as fast as they should and the squealing is slippage? Will try belt dressing to see if that changes anything. Question: If I was spinning a crank bearing, either main or rod, it would make much different noises than a belt squeal, right? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Fri Aug 24 16:25:09 2012 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2012 15:25:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] Overheatng In-Reply-To: <342001455.938795.1345844485628.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <342001455.938795.1345844485628.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: One simple test is to remove the belt altogether and briefly run the engine -- if the noise is gone that would narrow the search down to water pump, alternator or belt. A suspect belt can sometimes be diagnosed by spraying a bit of WD40 on it while the engine is running. If that immediately elminates the squeal then it is the belt. The WD40 is not a fix, just for diagnosis. I have quieted a noisy belt by (very carefully) hold a sanding block against the sides of the Vee as the engine runs. This scuffs the belt a bit and breaks up the glaze if that is what is cauing the noise. Geo On Fri, Aug 24, 2012 at 2:41 PM, wrote: > History. Have about three thousand miles on the engine rebuild. When I > started it the first time, there was intense squealing for a few seconds > that then went way. I figured it for a dry water pump. > > Squealing has returned. Sounds for all the world like a fan belt issue or > a bad bearing on either the water pump or alternator. Tried the > stethoscope, couldn't isolate, so swapped out the water pump. Squeal > persisted. Stethoscoped the alternator again, couldn't isolate, but then > accidently dropped cold water on the alternator and the sound stopped > abruptly. What was THAT all about?? > > So, bought a new GM alternator, adapted it to fit, put the old wide-belt > pulley on it, and reinstalled. Same squeal as before. > > But in the past week, the engine is overheating at idle and in hot > weather. I'm running the belt looser than I usually do, but watching the > action, the pulleys all seem to be turning, but am wondering if they're not > going as fast as they should and the squealing is slippage? > > Will try belt dressing to see if that changes anything. > > Question: If I was spinning a crank bearing, either main or rod, it would > make much different noises than a belt squeal, right? > > Terry Smith, '59 TR3A > New Hampshire > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr at gmail.com From skip47 at gbis.com Fri Aug 24 16:48:42 2012 From: skip47 at gbis.com (Skip Gurnee) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2012 15:48:42 -0700 Subject: [TR] Overheatng In-Reply-To: <342001455.938795.1345844485628.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <342001455.938795.1345844485628.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <0BD1FFCE5C0F48CBA7083C6C57A61E68@ownerPC> One possibility that I've encountered is a misalignment of the two pulleys, like the alternator is cocked to one side, or in a different plane. You should be able to see it from the side. I like George's solutions, and I'm sure others will come up with more. I've had crank bearings go bad; they didn't squeal, and began to knock pretty quick. I doubt that's the problem, especially with the sound disappearing with cold water on the alternator. Skip Gurnee 64 TR4, 65 TR4A Nevada -----Original Message----- From: terryrs at comcast.net Sent: Friday, August 24, 2012 2:41 PM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] Overheatng History. Have about three thousand miles on the engine rebuild. When I started it the first time, there was intense squealing for a few seconds that then went way. I figured it for a dry water pump. Squealing has returned. Sounds for all the world like a fan belt issue or a bad bearing on either the water pump or alternator. Tried the stethoscope, couldn't isolate, so swapped out the water pump. Squeal persisted. Stethoscoped the alternator again, couldn't isolate, but then accidently dropped cold water on the alternator and the sound stopped abruptly. What was THAT all about?? So, bought a new GM alternator, adapted it to fit, put the old wide-belt pulley on it, and reinstalled. Same squeal as before. But in the past week, the engine is overheating at idle and in hot weather. I'm running the belt looser than I usually do, but watching the action, the pulleys all seem to be turning, but am wondering if they're not going as fast as they should and the squealing is slippage? Will try belt dressing to see if that changes anything. Question: If I was spinning a crank bearing, either main or rod, it would make much different noises than a belt squeal, right? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From terryrs at comcast.net Fri Aug 24 17:04:49 2012 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2012 23:04:49 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Overheatng In-Reply-To: <0BD1FFCE5C0F48CBA7083C6C57A61E68@ownerPC> Message-ID: <270679703.940755.1345849489894.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Thank you, everyone who responded. After typing the initial question, I went straightaway to the car, sprayed some belt dressing on the belt and pulleys, then started it up. Absolutely zero noise! Belt does need more tightening, I think, but I'm trying to keep as much tension off the bearings as I can. That said.... Thanks again! Terry From guy at genfiniti.com Fri Aug 24 21:28:41 2012 From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins) Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2012 22:28:41 -0500 Subject: [TR] Overheatng In-Reply-To: <270679703.940755.1345849489894.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <270679703.940755.1345849489894.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Another possibility is the belt actually touching the pulleys along the bottom of the belt. The belt is actually NOT supposed to bottom out, but only touch along the sides. On Aug 24, 2012, at 6:04 PM, terryrs at comcast.net wrote: > Thank you, everyone who responded. After typing the initial question, I went straightaway to the car, sprayed some belt dressing on the belt and pulleys, then started it up. > > Absolutely zero noise! > > Belt does need more tightening, I think, but I'm trying to keep as much tension off the bearings as I can. That said.... > > Thanks again! > > Terry > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/guy at genfiniti.com From carlsereda at aol.com Sat Aug 25 13:57:55 2012 From: carlsereda at aol.com (Carl Sereda) Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2012 15:57:55 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 5, Issue 349 Message-ID: <8CF51130D42357F-1798-1B610@webmail-m151.sysops.aol.com> Hi Terry, I usually set tension of my TR4 fan belt near factory spec; 3/4" deflection on longest run... and as 'loose as possible' while not being able to turn the water pump or generator pulleys 'by hand, with my firmest grip'. Carl '63 TR4 since '74 Belt does need more tightening, I think, but I'm trying to keep as much tension off the bearings as I can. That said... From guy at genfiniti.com Sat Aug 25 15:11:48 2012 From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins) Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2012 16:11:48 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4A - Fuel Sending Issue Solved Message-ID: <323229C0-FB14-4635-824C-C513F149446A@genfiniti.com> All, I doubt anyone will remember, but a little under a year ago I posted an issue about my Nisonger rebuilt fuel gauge not reading when full when the tank was. Well, I finally got around to working it out and wanted to inform everyone. The first test was to confirm that the rebuilt gauge was in fact working as advertised. I pulled the lead wire off of the sending unit, and grounded it to the ground wire, and the fuel gauge went all the way full. Gauge confirmed! I pulled the sending unit from the tank and brought it to the workbench. I attached a multimeter, and took the resistance readings: Empty = 252.6 ohms Full = 17.6 ohms Moss part 763-020 is the wrong part for my narrow range (0 - 80 ohms) gauge. Any clue where to get the correct range sender? Cheers, Guy D. Huggins 1965 Triumph TR4A CTC 63569LO Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph From wbeech at flash.net Sat Aug 25 15:49:45 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2012 16:49:45 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4A - Fuel Sending Issue Solved In-Reply-To: <323229C0-FB14-4635-824C-C513F149446A@genfiniti.com> References: <323229C0-FB14-4635-824C-C513F149446A@genfiniti.com> Message-ID: <1B7060E0349B48988D6C5010ECEF3828@bboffice> BPNW, they carry one that should work. TRF, shows to have it as we p/n 203610. Also, I notice that Moss lists a different gauge for the TR3, 763-000. The range you note, 0-80 or in my case 10-90, is correct for a TR3 gauge. It might be a long shot, but someone there might know the ohm range of these two sending units. Of course, it might just be that the one you got from Moss is defective. Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby" '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" www.triumphowners.com/1566 '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" "If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow" M.Andretti -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of G.D. Huggins Sent: Saturday, August 25, 2012 4:12 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR4A - Fuel Sending Issue Solved All, I doubt anyone will remember, but a little under a year ago I posted an issue about my Nisonger rebuilt fuel gauge not reading when full when the tank was. Well, I finally got around to working it out and wanted to inform everyone. The first test was to confirm that the rebuilt gauge was in fact working as advertised. I pulled the lead wire off of the sending unit, and grounded it to the ground wire, and the fuel gauge went all the way full. Gauge confirmed! I pulled the sending unit from the tank and brought it to the workbench. I attached a multimeter, and took the resistance readings: Empty = 252.6 ohms Full = 17.6 ohms Moss part 763-020 is the wrong part for my narrow range (0 - 80 ohms) gauge. Any clue where to get the correct range sender? Cheers, Guy D. Huggins 1965 Triumph TR4A CTC 63569LO Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From boshea at adobe.com Sat Aug 25 15:58:01 2012 From: boshea at adobe.com (Brendan O'Shea) Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2012 14:58:01 -0700 Subject: [TR] [TR6] dist drive gear not engaging? Message-ID: Hello all, After a multi-year restoration & engine rebuild on my 73 TR6, I'm to the point of starting the engine. The bad news is : no oil pressure when spinning the engine with the starter motor. My first guess was the new oil pump was bad, so I put another new one in - didn't help. Pulling the distributor & spinning the oil pump with a 0.5" dowel brings up the pressure, so the pump itself is working. I finally started measuring things - the shaft on the distributor drive gear is 1.375" from the bottom of the shoulder of the gear and has a 0.3125" slot cut in the end; the oil pump shaft is 3.25" from the pump housing to the start of the tongue, the tongue is 0.3125" (matching the slot on the distributor drive gear). I've uploaded annotated photos in case my description doesn't make sense : http://www.flickr.com/photos/85259444 at N03/ Heres the problem: the distance from the top of the oil pump bush (what the distributor drive gear sits on) to the top of the installed oil pump shaft's tongue is 1.375", so the distributor drive gear is not engaging the oil pump. The oil pump is mounted flush with the engine block, there is no slop in the oil pump shaft when the oil pump is assembled. The lengths of all 3 oil pump shafts (original, 1st & 2nd replacement) match; the housings are all identical in height, so I think those lengths are correct. The distributor drive gear has a pin through the shaft, so I don't think that has slipped. Does anyone have a distributor drive gear they could measure the shaft on? Is 1.375" the correct length? How about an oil pump - is 3.25" from housing to start of tongue correct? This page : http://www.mossmotors.com/forum/forums/10761/ShowThread.aspx says it should be 110mm (4.33"), but that can't be correct - maybe that is from top-of-rotor. What about the oil pump bush? Should that be flush with the engine block from above or below? Mine is flush from below (oil pump side), about 0.125" high on the distributor drive gear side. Note : I didn't remove this during the rebuild, but I can't swear that the machine shop didn't; I don't feel any gap below the lip of the bush, and it seems if it were any further in, the gear wouldn't mesh with the cam. I've considered pushing the oil pump shaft out 0.125" - it is a press fit to the rotor, so it might work - but it doesn't seem like I should have to do that. Any idea what could be wrong? Thanks in advance, -Brendan O'Shea From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Sat Aug 25 18:46:31 2012 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2012 20:46:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 5, Issue 349 In-Reply-To: <8CF51130D42357F-1798-1B610@webmail-m151.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CF51130D42357F-1798-1B610@webmail-m151.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Me too! On Aug 25, 2012 4:00 PM, "Carl Sereda" wrote: > Hi Terry, > I usually set tension of my TR4 fan belt near factory spec; 3/4" > deflection on > longest run... and as 'loose as possible' while not being able to turn the > water pump or generator pulleys 'by hand, with my firmest grip'. > > Carl > '63 TR4 since '74 > > > Belt does need more tightening, I think, but I'm trying to keep as much > tension > off the bearings as I can. That said... > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ccsimonsen at gmail.com From auprichard at uprichard.net Sun Aug 26 08:58:33 2012 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 10:58:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] Any one have this problem? Message-ID: <00e601cd839b$440dff70$cc29fe50$@uprichard.net> List: After rebuilding the TR250, I noticed a distinct "click" from around my feet and in sync with engine revs. Turned out to be the servo non-return valve. Advice was to keep trying until I found a valve which didn't "click" So far I have tried 5 (thanks to Marv Gruber for two) and still no luck. The TR250 valves have three lugs and twist in a third of a turn, so they are harder to come across than the later, TR6, variety. Does anyone have experience with this and could it be something other than the valve itself, say within the servo ? Or if anyone has a decent valve they'd let me try, that would also be great. Thanks in advance, Andrew Uprichard 1962 TR3B 1968 TR250 1957 small-mouth (slow restoration) From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Aug 26 09:27:10 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 08:27:10 -0700 Subject: [TR] Any one have this problem? In-Reply-To: <00e601cd839b$440dff70$cc29fe50$@uprichard.net> References: <00e601cd839b$440dff70$cc29fe50$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <003c01cd839f$43544f90$0601a8c0@randall> > After rebuilding the TR250, I noticed a distinct "click" from > around my feet > and in sync with engine revs. Turned out to be the servo > non-return valve. I don't have any experience, but my guess is that there is something odd going on with the intake manifold vacuum. That valve should only move when the inlet vacuum goes above or below the vacuum inside the servo, so I think the rhythmic click means the inlet vacuum is going up and down. You should be able to confirm that theory by connecting a vacuum test gauge. I'll further guess that you have a fair amount of "lope" at idle, caused by the aggressive cam profile (this is the engine with 170+ bhp, correct?), which might explain the vacuum variation. One solution might be to add an in-line check valve in the line leading to the servo. Without the direct connection to the servo and firewall, you probably won't be able to hear it operate. -- Randall From rhelman at gmail.com Sun Aug 26 18:15:09 2012 From: rhelman at gmail.com (Roger Helman) Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 17:15:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 light-weight, high-torque, aftermarket starter motor clearance issue Message-ID: I am trying to install a TRF light-weight, high-torque, aftermarket starter motor on my TR6 with a free flow exhaust header. I had to rotate the entire starter so the blue wire ( which connects the solenoid to the starter ) is directly over the free flow exhaust.header. The Solenoid and starter motor are parallel in relation to each other and the bottom of the car. I am worried this will cook the blue wire and or starter. Does anyone else have a similar setup? If so what did you do? Thanks Roger -- Roger Helman rhelman at gmail.com From rhelman at gmail.com Sun Aug 26 21:38:40 2012 From: rhelman at gmail.com (Roger Helman) Date: Sun, 26 Aug 2012 20:38:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 light-weight, high-torque, aftermarket starter motor clearance issue In-Reply-To: <011f01cd83f5$be2e1650$0601a8c0@randall> References: <011f01cd83f5$be2e1650$0601a8c0@randall> Message-ID: Thanks Randall, those sound like great ideas. Roger On Sun, Aug 26, 2012 at 6:46 PM, Randall wrote: > Sounds like a good place for a heat shield. Maybe some fiberglass sleeving > from MMC for the wire, and something like this > > http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Thermo-Tec-7-x-22-in-starter-he > at-shield/_/N-269n?itemIdentifier=953384_0_0_ > for the starter. Or you can bend/cut something yourself from regular > "roofing" tin (ask for "flashing tin" at Home Depot). Even if you have to > attach it to the header (eg cut a thin tab to bend down and fasten with a > hose clamp), it will block a significant amount of heat. > > http://www.alcester-racing-sevens.com/BRISE_starter_2.jpg > > -- Randall > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Roger Helman > > Sent: Sunday, August 26, 2012 5:15 PM > > To: Triumph Email List > > Subject: [TR] TR6 light-weight, high-torque, aftermarket > > starter motor clearance issue > > > > I am trying to install a TRF light-weight, high-torque, > > aftermarket starter > > motor on my TR6 with a free flow exhaust header. I had to rotate the > > entire starter so the blue wire ( which connects the solenoid to the > > starter ) is directly over the free flow exhaust.header. The > > Solenoid and > > starter motor are parallel in relation to each other and the > > bottom of the > > car. > > > > I am worried this will cook the blue wire and or starter. > > > > Does anyone else have a similar setup? > > > > If so what did you do? > > > > > > Thanks > > Roger > > -- > > Roger Helman > > rhelman at gmail.com > > > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3driver at ca.rr.com > > > > -- -- Roger Helman rhelman at gmail.com From blambert at socal.rr.com Mon Aug 27 08:03:27 2012 From: blambert at socal.rr.com (D&B Lambert) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 07:03:27 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 Repro Bumper - Quality?? In-Reply-To: <8CF51BDF3FADD9A-968-22DB2@webmail-m046.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CF51BDF3FADD9A-968-22DB2@webmail-m046.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <3903130063AA4118B93F3C8E45431E7B@Lambert1> Hello, Can anyone comment from an experience standpoint on the quality of the repro bumpers for an early TR6? I've heard things from "don't bother, they're made from tin foil" to "not as good as original but it's ok". I'm interested specifically about the rear bumper center section for my '71 TR6. Does anyone have one on their car at this time? Has it been ok? Any vendors better than the others? I'd much rather have the original straightened and re-chromed, but here in SoCal the price of chrome work has gone astronomical. Thanks, Dennis From yellowtr at adelphia.net Mon Aug 27 08:27:44 2012 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 10:27:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Repro Bumper - Quality?? In-Reply-To: <3903130063AA4118B93F3C8E45431E7B@Lambert1> References: <8CF51BDF3FADD9A-968-22DB2@webmail-m046.sysops.aol.com> <3903130063AA4118B93F3C8E45431E7B@Lambert1> Message-ID: <503B83E0.6080902@adelphia.net> Dennis, I have seen SS versions of the early bumpers on Ebay from time to time. But only full sets of rear + front. They are going for about 1K. I have know knowledge of quality. I had both my complete 3 piece rear and front bumpers (4 pieces) re chromed at a local plater for about 900 bucks 5 years ago. They even removed a small dent from the center rear bumper. Chrome is still as delivered. The bumpers did not have any rust or pitting. They were just a bit on the green side, (nickel showing). That is why I chose to have them re chromed. You might want to check with some chrome shops that do motorcycles. They may be able to help you even though they may use out of state resources. Bob On 08/27/2012 10:03 AM, D&B Lambert wrote: > Hello, > Can anyone comment from an experience standpoint on the quality of the repro > bumpers for an early TR6? I've heard things from "don't bother, they're > made from tin foil" to "not as good as original but it's ok". I'm > interested specifically about the rear bumper center section for my '71 TR6. > Does anyone have one on their car at this time? Has it been ok? Any > vendors better than the others? I'd much rather have the original > straightened and re-chromed, but here in SoCal the price of chrome work has > gone astronomical. > Thanks, Dennis > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr at adelphia.net From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Aug 27 12:20:58 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (tr3driver at ca.rr.com) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 14:20:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Repro Bumper - Quality?? In-Reply-To: <3903130063AA4118B93F3C8E45431E7B@Lambert1> Message-ID: <20120827182058.I4WOI.45230.root@cdptpa-web19-z01> > here in SoCal the price of chrome work has > gone astronomical. I hear it's much cheaper across the border, either to the east or the south. -- Randall From robertrudolphi at yahoo.com Mon Aug 27 12:51:17 2012 From: robertrudolphi at yahoo.com (robert rudolphi) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 11:51:17 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 Oil Cooler In-Reply-To: <20120827182058.I4WOI.45230.root@cdptpa-web19-z01> References: <3903130063AA4118B93F3C8E45431E7B@Lambert1> <20120827182058.I4WOI.45230.root@cdptpa-web19-z01> Message-ID: <1346093477.17185.YahooMailNeo@web160402.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Hello All, I am considering adding an oil cooler (13 row) to my 74 TR6. TRF has them on sale and now may be a good time to purchase. I run 20-50 and really only drive the car in the summer. I have noticed a drop in pressure as the car warms up to around 10-15PSI at idle. My questions are do I need to add a thermostat? When changing the oil how to you get old oil out of the cooler, or do you need not worry about that? Any other concerns I should be aware of. Thanks in advance for any feedback. Robert Robert Rudolphi 1974 TR6 From Harrymague at aol.com Mon Aug 27 13:22:09 2012 From: Harrymague at aol.com (Harrymague at aol.com) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 15:22:09 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 Oil Cooler Message-ID: <235ff.64b19d5c.3d6d22e1@aol.com> Robert, I have that installed on my 74 "6" with the thermostat. I also used 20-50 and have a aluminum radiator. Temp never moves. Oil changes are another matter. No way to get the oil out of cooler unless you could use compress air, I think. Never tried it, just empty what I can and go from there. Mounted the thermostat on the body just above the engine mount. Seemed to work ok there. good luck. Harry Mague In a message dated 8/27/2012 2:57:03 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, robertrudolphi at yahoo.com writes: Hello All, I am considering adding an oil cooler (13 row) to my 74 TR6. TRF has them on sale and now may be a good time to purchase. I run 20-50 and really only drive the car in the summer. I have noticed a drop in pressure as the car warms up to around 10-15PSI at idle. My questions are do I need to add a thermostat? When changing the oil how to you get old oil out of the cooler, or do you need not worry about that? Any other concerns I should be aware of. Thanks in advance for any feedback. Robert Robert Rudolphi 1974 TR6 ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/harrymague at aol.com From agraham at execulink.com Mon Aug 27 13:36:40 2012 From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 15:36:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 brake light switch Message-ID: <503BCC48.6060309@execulink.com> Hello List: Wondering if anyone has found a brake light switch that will work on the TR4/4A master cylinder bracket. I have used a big 3 'replacement' switch with very early failure. Has anyone sourced a readily available switch (FLAPS) that might work on the bracket? Thanks for any help with this one - before I order another switch. Angelo Graham From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Mon Aug 27 13:39:02 2012 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 12:39:02 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 Repro Bumper - Quality?? In-Reply-To: <20120827182058.I4WOI.45230.root@cdptpa-web19-z01> References: <3903130063AA4118B93F3C8E45431E7B@Lambert1> <20120827182058.I4WOI.45230.root@cdptpa-web19-z01> Message-ID: East being (among other places) Tucson, Arizona: It's been awhile since I had any bumpers done but I had the TR3 & 4 valve covers rechromed earlier this year at Royal Plating and they were $75 each. Royal does it all though there are other local shops that (I've heard) do the prep & final but send it to Royal for the actual plating. Geo On Mon, Aug 27, 2012 at 11:20 AM, wrote: > > here in SoCal the price of chrome work has > > gone astronomical. > > I hear it's much cheaper across the border, either to the east or the > south... From lang at isis.mit.edu Mon Aug 27 13:46:29 2012 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 15:46:29 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 Oil Cooler In-Reply-To: <1346093477.17185.YahooMailNeo@web160402.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> References: <3903130063AA4118B93F3C8E45431E7B@Lambert1> <20120827182058.I4WOI.45230.root@cdptpa-web19-z01> <1346093477.17185.YahooMailNeo@web160402.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Hi, Whether you need an oil cooler is subject for debate. Going out on a limb here, a street driven motor would probably never see critical oil temps, hence the oil cooler is not needed. If, on the other hand, you have a race motor that sees high-rpm, heavy load operation, then the oil cooler would be called for. The one exception for a street-driven car would be if you tow or you plan to sit in traffic all the time. As a single data point, I have a 12:1 motor in an autocrosser and I do run an oil cooler. With no oil cooler, I would see oil temps in excess of 210 on a hot day. With the oil cooler I do see up to about 180 when it gets really hot and I have two drivers and there's an occasional spike to 200-ish. So the delta T with a 13-row cooler is 10 - 30 derees oil temp. I have a 13-row cooler and I have a thermostatic bypass valve. But to the point - with an oil cooler and the old-style oil (20w50), you're giving up horsepower due to parasitic drag from the oil. There are other side-issues that are related to the oil being too cool. I guess the point is, there's not much to be gained by the oil cooler except possibly the ooh-ahh factor. In any case, if you do run an oil cooler make sure that you have one of the thermostatically controlled bypass thingies because if you don't run one of those and you run your car when it's cold the oil will NEVER get to operating temps and you'll be bypassing the pressure relief valve all the time because the oil pressure will STAY at 100+ psi all the time. This is patently bad, IMHO. Also note that you are adding a maintenance item to your system... regarding maintenance of an oil cooler, with a thermostatic bypass, you need to test the thing to make sure it's actually working, so add that to your monthly to-do list. You also need to keep a sharp eye on the cooler and hoses for problems. The oil flows through the system at line pressure, so a tiny crack in the cooler itself can turn into a gusher at (usually) the worst time. There's also the issue of purging the oil cooler during oil changes so that you get a full, fresh charge of new oil during oil changes... which is one of the points of doing oil changes. But that's my two cents on the matter. Like I said, I have one on the race car. I don't have one on the street car. c ya, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent Former NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Aug 27 14:28:22 2012 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 16:28:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 brake light switch In-Reply-To: <503BCC48.6060309@execulink.com> References: <503BCC48.6060309@execulink.com> Message-ID: <358E1897DC454F5B92326E91D3BC7579@BobDell> If the TR4 switch is like the TR6 switch, here's a couple of inexpensive yet quality alternatives http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/AltBrakeSwitch.htm Bob Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/ 1975 TR6 modified with: -Throttle Body Injection -Toyota 5 Speed -Nissan Differential -AAW Wire Harness -CVJs... and more -----Original Message----- From: Angelo Graham Sent: Monday, August 27, 2012 3:36 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR4 brake light switch Hello List: Wondering if anyone has found a brake light switch that will work on the TR4/4A master cylinder bracket. I have used a big 3 'replacement' switch with very early failure. Has anyone sourced a readily available switch (FLAPS) that might work on the bracket? Thanks for any help with this one - before I order another switch. Angelo Graham ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From auprichard at uprichard.net Mon Aug 27 14:35:18 2012 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 16:35:18 -0400 Subject: [TR] Randall comes up with the answer again Message-ID: <002001cd8493$7cdc8c60$7695a520$@uprichard.net> Randall: you are amazing. I bought a $6 in-line booster valve (Ford, I believe) and no more noise. Thanks again ! Andrew -----Original Message----- From: Randall [mailto:TR3driver at ca.rr.com] Sent: Sunday, August 26, 2012 11:27 AM To: 'Andrew Uprichard'; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [TR] Any one have this problem? > After rebuilding the TR250, I noticed a distinct "click" from around > my feet and in sync with engine revs. Turned out to be the servo > non-return valve. I don't have any experience, but my guess is that there is something odd going on with the intake manifold vacuum. That valve should only move when the inlet vacuum goes above or below the vacuum inside the servo, so I think the rhythmic click means the inlet vacuum is going up and down. You should be able to confirm that theory by connecting a vacuum test gauge. I'll further guess that you have a fair amount of "lope" at idle, caused by the aggressive cam profile (this is the engine with 170+ bhp, correct?), which might explain the vacuum variation. One solution might be to add an in-line check valve in the line leading to the servo. Without the direct connection to the servo and firewall, you probably won't be able to hear it operate. -- Randall From auprichard at uprichard.net Mon Aug 27 14:43:14 2012 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 16:43:14 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 Oil Cooler In-Reply-To: References: <3903130063AA4118B93F3C8E45431E7B@Lambert1> <20120827182058.I4WOI.45230.root@cdptpa-web19-z01> <1346093477.17185.YahooMailNeo@web160402.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <002b01cd8494$9909e080$cb1da180$@uprichard.net> Another consideration is blowing the oil cooler on a cold day if you don't run it with a thermostat. The coolers aren't meant to deal with the high pressure of oil on a cold day. Plus, the first thing you may notice is when that oil warning light comes on....... Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert M. Lang Sent: Monday, August 27, 2012 3:46 PM To: robert rudolphi Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Oil Cooler Hi, Whether you need an oil cooler is subject for debate. Going out on a limb here, a street driven motor would probably never see critical oil temps, hence the oil cooler is not needed. If, on the other hand, you have a race motor that sees high-rpm, heavy load operation, then the oil cooler would be called for. The one exception for a street-driven car would be if you tow or you plan to sit in traffic all the time. As a single data point, I have a 12:1 motor in an autocrosser and I do run an oil cooler. With no oil cooler, I would see oil temps in excess of 210 on a hot day. With the oil cooler I do see up to about 180 when it gets really hot and I have two drivers and there's an occasional spike to 200-ish. So the delta T with a 13-row cooler is 10 - 30 derees oil temp. I have a 13-row cooler and I have a thermostatic bypass valve. But to the point - with an oil cooler and the old-style oil (20w50), you're giving up horsepower due to parasitic drag from the oil. There are other side-issues that are related to the oil being too cool. I guess the point is, there's not much to be gained by the oil cooler except possibly the ooh-ahh factor. In any case, if you do run an oil cooler make sure that you have one of the thermostatically controlled bypass thingies because if you don't run one of those and you run your car when it's cold the oil will NEVER get to operating temps and you'll be bypassing the pressure relief valve all the time because the oil pressure will STAY at 100+ psi all the time. This is patently bad, IMHO. Also note that you are adding a maintenance item to your system... regarding maintenance of an oil cooler, with a thermostatic bypass, you need to test the thing to make sure it's actually working, so add that to your monthly to-do list. You also need to keep a sharp eye on the cooler and hoses for problems. The oil flows through the system at line pressure, so a tiny crack in the cooler itself can turn into a gusher at (usually) the worst time. There's also the issue of purging the oil cooler during oil changes so that you get a full, fresh charge of new oil during oil changes... which is one of the points of doing oil changes. But that's my two cents on the matter. Like I said, I have one on the race car. I don't have one on the street car. c ya, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent Former NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/auprichard at uprichard.net From auprichard at uprichard.net Mon Aug 27 14:45:37 2012 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 16:45:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Repro Bumper - Quality?? In-Reply-To: References: <3903130063AA4118B93F3C8E45431E7B@Lambert1> <20120827182058.I4WOI.45230.root@cdptpa-web19-z01> Message-ID: <002c01cd8494$f64adce0$e2e096a0$@uprichard.net> I looked for weeks for a place to do the window frame and stanchions for my latest TR3. Finally found a place in Detroit which did the whole lot for $275. Thought that was a pretty good deal. Can supply details for anyone interested. Andrew -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Geo Hahn Sent: Monday, August 27, 2012 3:39 PM To: Triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Repro Bumper - Quality?? East being (among other places) Tucson, Arizona: It's been awhile since I had any bumpers done but I had the TR3 & 4 valve covers rechromed earlier this year at Royal Plating and they were $75 each. Royal does it all though there are other local shops that (I've heard) do the prep & final but send it to Royal for the actual plating. Geo On Mon, Aug 27, 2012 at 11:20 AM, wrote: > > here in SoCal the price of chrome work has gone astronomical. > > I hear it's much cheaper across the border, either to the east or the > south... ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From n197tr4 at cs.com Mon Aug 27 15:20:19 2012 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 17:20:19 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 Oil Cooler In-Reply-To: References: <3903130063AA4118B93F3C8E45431E7B@Lambert1> <20120827182058.I4WOI.45230.root@cdptpa-web19-z01> <1346093477.17185.YahooMailNeo@web160402.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8CF52B0E4D7B400-1948-2FA99@webmail-d018.sysops.aol.com> what BOBSTA said we are sub-3.00 minutes at Road America and dont run an oil cooler. we did....but had to block off air to get oil temps up. we also run a dead stock radiator and always have. one less oil leak and one less failure opportunity. Joe A A. R. E. 645 1st Street Jesup, Iowa 50648 319.464.4711 (cell) n197tr4 at cs.com -----Original Message----- From: Robert M. Lang To: robert rudolphi Cc: triumphs ; 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Mon, Aug 27, 2012 2:57 pm Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Oil Cooler Hi, Whether you need an oil cooler is subject for debate. Going out on a limb here, a street driven motor would probably never see critical oil temps, hence the oil cooler is not needed. If, on the other hand, you have a race motor that sees high-rpm, heavy load operation, then the oil cooler would be called for. The one exception for a street-driven car would be if you tow or you plan to sit in traffic all the time. As a single data point, I have a 12:1 motor in an autocrosser and I do run an oil cooler. With no oil cooler, I would see oil temps in excess of 210 on a hot day. With the oil cooler I do see up to about 180 when it gets really hot and I have two drivers and there's an occasional spike to 200-ish. So the delta T with a 13-row cooler is 10 - 30 derees oil temp. I have a 13-row cooler and I have a thermostatic bypass valve. But to the point - with an oil cooler and the old-style oil (20w50), you're giving up horsepower due to parasitic drag from the oil. There are other side-issues that are related to the oil being too cool. I guess the point is, there's not much to be gained by the oil cooler except possibly the ooh-ahh factor. In any case, if you do run an oil cooler make sure that you have one of the thermostatically controlled bypass thingies because if you don't run one of those and you run your car when it's cold the oil will NEVER get to operating temps and you'll be bypassing the pressure relief valve all the time because the oil pressure will STAY at 100+ psi all the time. This is patently bad, IMHO. Also note that you are adding a maintenance item to your system... regarding maintenance of an oil cooler, with a thermostatic bypass, you need to test the thing to make sure it's actually working, so add that to your monthly to-do list. You also need to keep a sharp eye on the cooler and hoses for problems. The oil flows through the system at line pressure, so a tiny crack in the cooler itself can turn into a gusher at (usually) the worst time. There's also the issue of purging the oil cooler during oil changes so that you get a full, fresh charge of new oil during oil changes... which is one of the points of doing oil changes. But that's my two cents on the matter. Like I said, I have one on the race car. I don't have one on the street car. c ya, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent Former NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/n197tr4 at cs.com From thenicholls at verizon.net Mon Aug 27 15:42:05 2012 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 16:42:05 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Randall comes up with the answer again Message-ID: <15642084.1452121.1346103725214.JavaMail.root@vznit170130> The guy never ceases to amaze me, I have learned more about my car from this one member than anyone out there. Randall, to you from all of us, thank you for your insight and experience. Craig 1972 Triumph TR6 On 08/27/12, Andrew Uprichard wrote: Randall: you are amazing. I bought a $6 in-line booster valve (Ford, I believe) and no more noise. Thanks again ! Andrew -----Original Message----- From: Randall [mailto:TR3driver at ca.rr.com] Sent: Sunday, August 26, 2012 11:27 AM To: 'Andrew Uprichard'; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [TR] Any one have this problem? > After rebuilding the TR250, I noticed a distinct "click" from around > my feet and in sync with engine revs. Turned out to be the servo > non-return valve. I don't have any experience, but my guess is that there is something odd going on with the intake manifold vacuum. That valve should only move when the inlet vacuum goes above or below the vacuum inside the servo, so I think the rhythmic click means the inlet vacuum is going up and down. You should be able to confirm that theory by connecting a vacuum test gauge. I'll further guess that you have a fair amount of "lope" at idle, caused by the aggressive cam profile (this is the engine with 170+ bhp, correct?), which might explain the vacuum variation. One solution might be to add an in-line check valve in the line leading to the servo. Without the direct connection to the servo and firewall, you probably won't be able to hear it operate. -- Randall ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Aug 27 15:49:52 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (tr3driver at ca.rr.com) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 17:49:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 Oil Cooler In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20120827214952.1HJP0.46859.root@cdptpa-web19-z01> > You also need to keep a sharp eye on the cooler > and hoses for problems. The oil flows through the system at line pressure, > so a tiny crack in the cooler itself can turn into a gusher at (usually) > the worst time. Ditto the lines to/from the cooler & thermostat. Lines can rupture suddenly if they are chafing or get pulled tight under hard acceleration/cornering. And a broken line can ruin your whole day, especially when the first symptom you notice is the clatter from the rod bearings ... I know that's what Bob meant to say, I just wanted to emphasize the point. Otherwise I agree entirely. -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Aug 27 16:29:37 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (tr3driver at ca.rr.com) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 18:29:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 brake light switch In-Reply-To: <503BCC48.6060309@execulink.com> Message-ID: <20120827222938.6HX4Y.47081.root@cdptpa-web19-z01> FWIW, I had early failure with the one I got from my FLAPS. Sorry I don't know the application. When I tried to buy a replacement (different FLAPS) they couldn't figure out what it was from either. The repro switch I got from TRF has been working well for a couple of years now. Also FWIW, I kind of suspect the FLAPS switch failed because it got contaminated with DOT 5. -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Aug 27 16:46:51 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (tr3driver at ca.rr.com) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 18:46:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] Randall comes up with the answer again In-Reply-To: <15642084.1452121.1346103725214.JavaMail.root@vznit170130> Message-ID: <20120827224651.T960N.47214.root@cdptpa-web19-z01> > Randall, to you from all of us, thank you for your insight and experience. Aw shucks, just tryin to help out. -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Aug 27 16:55:11 2012 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (tr3driver at ca.rr.com) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 18:55:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] America's British Reliability Run Message-ID: <20120827225512.GZOY2.47284.root@cdptpa-web19-z01> *Oct 19-21, Clinton, NJ. - America's British Reliability Run* America's British Reliability Run is a 650 mile weekend drive for charity through the states of NJ, NY, CT, VT and PA. Each two person team pays their own expenses and solicits donations to the partner charity, in this case the Shriner's Childrens Hospital of Philadelphia. Since 2002, the ABRR has raised over $150,000 for worthy childrens charities throughout the US. Open to British vehicles of any vintage. Learn more at www.BritishReliability.org . Contact: Bob DeLucia. Email: _yukon80 at comcast.net_ . From FrankB at saceboard.sa.gov.au Mon Aug 27 17:53:34 2012 From: FrankB at saceboard.sa.gov.au (Biedermann, Frank (SACE Board)) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2012 09:23:34 +0930 Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 Oil Cooler In-Reply-To: <20120827214952.1HJP0.46859.root@cdptpa-web19-z01> References: <20120827214952.1HJP0.46859.root@cdptpa-web19-z01> Message-ID: I'll pitch in with my 2c here, after previously having an oil cooler on my early '6. It's not on there any more - I believe mine either had a weakness in it somewhere or developed one in the course of use and catastrophically failed dumping all the oil from the engine in a very short period of time. Luckily, that happened about 100m from my parents' driveway (which is where I was going for lunch) and my folks had oil and the necessary tools and fittings to plug the oil cooler lines at the filter adapter, so no real damage done. In the period of time I had it installed it did improve the idle oil pressure, particularly in stop-go traffic in summer here when temperatures can exceed 40 degrees Celsius. But I don't think that's enough to convince me to ever install one again after the experience I had above... Frank Biedermann 69 TR6 PI Adelaide, Australia -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sent: Tuesday, 28 August 2012 7:20 AM To: robert rudolphi Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] TR6 Oil Cooler > You also need to keep a sharp eye on the cooler and hoses for > problems. The oil flows through the system at line pressure, so a tiny > crack in the cooler itself can turn into a gusher at (usually) the > worst time. Ditto the lines to/from the cooler & thermostat. Lines can rupture suddenly if they are chafing or get pulled tight under hard acceleration/cornering. And a broken line can ruin your whole day, especially when the first symptom you notice is the clatter from the rod bearings ... I know that's what Bob meant to say, I just wanted to emphasize the point. Otherwise I agree entirely. -- Randall ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/frankb at saceboard.sa.gov.au From john_finlayson at telus.net Thu Aug 23 22:28:52 2012 From: john_finlayson at telus.net (John Finlayson) Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2012 21:28:52 -0700 Subject: [TR] Fw: Transmission Temporary Locks In Neutral Message-ID: <8F613F2F5711456491478FF08428BA05@JohnPC> On June 28, I posted the following message to the list. I received several suggestions as to what the cause of the problem might be: - shift interlock in the top cover - clutch hydraulics - shift lever adjustment - clutch not releasing from the flywheel. I think I have now ruled out most, if not all, of the above suggestions and am appealing for any additional suggestions anyone might have. I felt strongly that the shift interlock was the problem. I even ordered some parts for it before taking it apart. When the parts didn't arrive, I removed the top cover from the previous transmission I had in the TR4 and replaced the top cover that I thought might be faulty on the current malfunctioning transmission with the TR4 transmission top cover. After an hour of driving, the problem came back. This seemed to rule out the shift interlock as the problem as I had experienced no problems with the previous TR4 transmission in several years of driving with it. I checked the clutch hydraulics. They appeared to be within spec and the slave maintained its position with the clutch pedal depressed. I had used the TR4 shift lever on both the TR4 and TR6 top covers. I removed the TR4 top cover and reinstalled the TR6 top cover. I installed the TR6 shift lever and adjusted it as described it the TR6 Shop Manual. Incidentally, the TR6 Shop Manual says to screw the locating pin in till it touches the lever then back it off a half turn. The Haynes manual says, after touching "screw the locating pin a further half turn.....". On two recent occasions the temporary transmission jams occurred while the car was stopped. While in neutral and stopped at a red light I couldn't shift out of neutral into a forward gear. I finally had an opportunity to try reverse. It went easily and cleanly into reverse. I shifted out of reverse but still couldn't get it into a forward gear. I continued trying and finally got it into first when the light changed. This was the first time I had tried to shift into reverse when the forward gears were jammed. I was surprised at how easily it went into reverse. The second occurrence was a repeat of the first. There was no grinding of gears at any time during these incidents or any of the previous incidents. So I now know that these temporary jams are confined to the forward gears only. I don`t see how it could be the clutch if I can get into reverse while not being able to get into a forward gear but I don`t know enough to rule it out. I`m thinking it`s something in the transmission related to the forward gears that occasionally jams. Given that this is an intermittent problem, I`m not sure I`ll even recognize it when I see it. When I had the covers off the two transmissions, the TR6 transmission was tighter and with less end float that the previous TR4 transmission. Any insights into what the problem might be would be greatly appreciated. John Finlayson ----- Original Message ----- From: John Finlayson To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2012 8:19 PM Subject: Transmission Temporary Locks In Neutral I have a '62 TR4 in which I have installed a TR6 transmission with A type overdrive. Very intermittently after shifting out of a gear I will find that I can't get out of neutral into the gear I am intending to shift into, or to any forward gear including the one I just came out of. This can occur when the car is stopped or in motion. I can be at a traffic light waiting in neutral for the light to change. When the light changes I find I can't engage any forward gear. After trying repeatedly to select a gear and engaging and disengaging the clutch I have so far eventually been able to get the transmission "unlocked" and shifted into a gear. The same applies when the car is in motion and when I am either up or down shifting. I don't recall overdrive ever being engaged when this occurs although it's possible it may have been on some occasions. There is no grinding of gears when this occurs. The shifter doesn't get even close to selecting a gear. When I try to select a gear, I can freely move the shifter laterally in neutral but not up or down to select any forward gear.The shift lever feels like it is physically blocked from moving up or down....I have not yet tried to select reverse when this occurs, just haven't thought to try reverse. These are infrequent events and have occurred since since the transmission was installed a year or so ago. Their frequency and the effort required to get a gear has increased recently, however. It happened three times on a ~30 mile drive I took last week....twice while stopped at lights and once while gearing down from 4th to 3rd while on the highway. I wasn't successful in getting it into gear till after I had stopped. Any suggestions on what the problem is would be greatly appreciated. John Finlayson From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Mon Aug 27 19:28:36 2012 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2012 21:28:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] Electric Fan wiring - TR3 Message-ID: As I am finishing up the wiring on my project, I thought I might build in the wiring for an electric fan now rather than later (after all this is Florida). Car is still positive ground. I have an open connection on a brown wire fuse box (located next to the factory fuse box) fed from A1 of control box. Fuse for Overdrive and an accessory panel (both on relays). I am looking at a manual switch only. My thoughts: Brown/white from fuse box to C1/30 on relay. C2/87 to Fan also indicator lamp (probably brown/white as well) ?? from ?? to Switch to W1/85 (when key on) - what color? And where connected? W2/86 to ground. Fan & Indicator lamp grounded. As an alternative, I may use a switch with an indicator lamp in the knob if I can find a spring for it. Location TBD. Relays are my nemesis. am I correct? Thanks Carl 1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ Still being restored - but 2012 looks like the year.. From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Tue Aug 28 06:10:06 2012 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2012 05:10:06 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 For Sale Message-ID: <1346155806.7121.YahooMailNeo@web39403.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hi List! A person new that I was into TRIUMPH's & asked if I would spread the word about him wanting to sell his TR6. Feel free to contact him (Brian Same ) NOT ME! //////////// Cosmo, Below is the ad for my TR6, modify if you want. 1972 Triumph TR6 Tan convertible / green, with tan leather interior; body off-frame restored, no rust, mechanicals are new or rebuilt. Has AC, oil cooler, competition suspension for lower smoother ride. Engine was rebulit by Roadster Factory. Two sets of wheels: chrome wire with black walls and stock power coated steel with red lines. Both sets of tires brand new. Car is former AWARD Winner in Class. Recent NYS inspected. Many extras including Tonneau cover, extra parts, original radio must see. Milage: 52,900. Please no trades, reasonable offers considered, call for details @716-289-2381or e-mail; jbs0073 at aol.com Thanks, Brian Same ////////// -Cosmo Kramer From dougfr2 at gmail.com Tue Aug 28 07:53:50 2012 From: dougfr2 at gmail.com (Doug) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2012 09:53:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] My TR6 has a cooler Message-ID: <2B0B0959-0F59-4CDF-8AA2-133394891D08@gmail.com> In addition to the thermostat there are two types of oil hoses available. The more reasonable in cost is just rubber. The better oil hose is metal (wire mess sorta) covered. This is the better choice of the two - it will easily withstand line pressures. Doug Fraser '69 TR6 Ocala, FL From pcaffrey at ymail.com Tue Aug 28 19:13:31 2012 From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2012 18:13:31 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Wire Wheels--Safety Message-ID: <1346202811.43035.YahooMailNeo@web120902.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Hi List, Any opinions on the reliability of original wire wheels that have never received maintenance (e.g., tuned, spokes replaced)? What are the chances of a wire wheel collapsing? The wheels on my car are original with all spokes accounted for and no visible rust. The only thing I've done to maintain them is powder-coating and wheel balance when tires are replaced. Today, I had a nice drive on the Sacramento River road. A lot of winding road for miles with beautiful scenery of vineyards, small towns, boating, etc. However, the makeshift roadside altars marking auto fatalities (several on the Sacramento levee) reminds one of the inherent dangers associated with our cars. Thanks for any opinions... Pat TR4A '67 From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Tue Aug 28 19:42:07 2012 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2012 18:42:07 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] speedy bleed Message-ID: <1346204527.10693.YahooMailNeo@web65506.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Installed a new master cylinder (tr-6) along with speedy bleeders on all corners. Attempted to bleed starting from right rear wheel and got nowhere. I ended up taking out the speedy bleeder and tried blowing/sucking by mouth. It didn't seem to make any difference as I could suck and blow through the bleeder without any change. I'm thinking the bleeder should block during a suck or blow if its working right. Has anyone else had an issue with speedy bleeders? Or is simple mouth pressure not enough to make it work? thanks gary n. From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Aug 28 20:34:23 2012 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2012 22:34:23 -0400 Subject: [TR] speedy bleed In-Reply-To: <1346204527.10693.YahooMailNeo@web65506.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <1346204527.10693.YahooMailNeo@web65506.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2D6F0B30B3044840A2C3BD9B475F3274@BobDell> I've had them on my 6 for years and all you have to do is loosen them a turn and the fluif flows free. What they don't do is allow air back into the line from the bleeder point. So you loosen them, bleed and tighten. Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/ 1975 TR6 modified with: -Throttle Body Injection -Toyota 5 Speed -Nissan Differential -AAW Wire Harness -CVJs... and more -----Original Message----- From: Gary Nafziger Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2012 9:42 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] speedy bleed Installed a new master cylinder (tr-6) along with speedy bleeders on all corners. Attempted to bleed starting from right rear wheel and got nowhere. I ended up taking out the speedy bleeder and tried blowing/sucking by mouth. It didn't seem to make any difference as I could suck and blow through the bleeder without any change. I'm thinking the bleeder should block during a suck or blow if its working right. Has anyone else had an issue with speedy bleeders? Or is simple mouth pressure not enough to make it work? thanks gary n. ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Tue Aug 28 21:10:36 2012 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2012 23:10:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] speedy bleed In-Reply-To: <1346204527.10693.YahooMailNeo@web65506.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <1346204527.10693.YahooMailNeo@web65506.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Gives me a chuckle. Don't tell anyone but a few months ago, in desperation, i endeded up putting my mouth over the clutch res cap and blowing until fluif came out. After that, it was all pump 3 times, bleed, and repeat. I'm glad Bob did not have a camera while i blew thru the cap! On Aug 28, 2012 9:43 PM, "Gary Nafziger" wrote: > Installed a new master cylinder (tr-6) along with speedy bleeders on all > corners. Attempted to bleed starting from right rear wheel and got > nowhere. > I > ended up taking out the speedy bleeder and tried blowing/sucking by mouth. > It > didn't seem to make any difference as I could suck and blow through the > bleeder without any change. I'm thinking the bleeder should block during a > suck or blow if its working right. Has anyone else had an issue with > speedy > bleeders? Or is simple mouth pressure not enough to make it work? > > thanks > gary n. > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ccsimonsen at gmail.com From glemon at neb.rr.com Tue Aug 28 21:19:56 2012 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2012 22:19:56 -0500 Subject: [TR] speedy bleed In-Reply-To: <2D6F0B30B3044840A2C3BD9B475F3274@BobDell> References: <1346204527.10693.YahooMailNeo@web65506.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> <2D6F0B30B3044840A2C3BD9B475F3274@BobDell> Message-ID: When I had a fresh master cylinder on an MGB I tried to use the EZ bleeders, with a lot of air in the system to start I think I had some trouble getting the bleeder valve to open, once it is mostly fluid worked great, I think I switched back to the old bleeders to get started. Greg Lemon From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Aug 28 21:20:40 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2012 20:20:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] Wire Wheels--Safety In-Reply-To: <1346202811.43035.YahooMailNeo@web120902.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1346202811.43035.YahooMailNeo@web120902.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <02fe01cd8595$4498ac50$0601a8c0@randall> FWIW, I once read a comment from Kas Kastner that he liked wire wheels because they fail gradually. Steel wheels are more of an "all or nothing" proposition. At the very least though, I'd either tune them myself or get someone to do it. Loose spokes are almost a guarantee of broken spokes if you drive them that way very long. -- Randall From glemon at neb.rr.com Tue Aug 28 21:25:21 2012 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2012 22:25:21 -0500 Subject: [TR] Wire Wheels--Safety In-Reply-To: <1346202811.43035.YahooMailNeo@web120902.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1346202811.43035.YahooMailNeo@web120902.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <32A42C73C6574C52852DAEDACFF7464E@GregPC> In my experience (and I drove on some pretty bad ones over the years) they tend to break a spoke or two, or once a little loose the lack of tension leads to further and faster deterioration, but I don't think they are very prone to catastrophic failure, maybe others have different stories to tell, but there is probably more chance of your front lower suspension mounts breaking if you are looking for something to worry about :) Greg Lemon From wbeech at flash.net Tue Aug 28 22:08:30 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2012 23:08:30 -0500 Subject: [TR] Wire Wheels--Safety In-Reply-To: <32A42C73C6574C52852DAEDACFF7464E@GregPC> References: <1346202811.43035.YahooMailNeo@web120902.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <32A42C73C6574C52852DAEDACFF7464E@GregPC> Message-ID: <144DCD7991374E11B972A3661BD0F66A@bboffice> The only catastrophic failure I had was spinning my 3 across a median curb, bent one and busted a lot of spokes on the other so it drove sort of egg-shaped, but it got me the next 5 miles to the house. I'm with Greg, I don't think you have anything to worry about it all looks tight and clean as you say. You will have plenty of warning from a spoke here or there when things are starting to so south. Enjoy your ride, Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Greg Lemon Sent: Tuesday, August 28, 2012 10:25 PM To: P Caffrey; list Triumph Subject: Re: [TR] Wire Wheels--Safety In my experience (and I drove on some pretty bad ones over the years) they tend to break a spoke or two, or once a little loose the lack of tension leads to further and faster deterioration, but I don't think they are very prone to catastrophic failure, maybe others have different stories to tell, but there is probably more chance of your front lower suspension mounts breaking if you are looking for something to worry about :) Greg Lemon ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From glemon at neb.rr.com Tue Aug 28 22:24:25 2012 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2012 23:24:25 -0500 Subject: [TR] Wire Wheels--Safety In-Reply-To: <144DCD7991374E11B972A3661BD0F66A@bboffice> References: <1346202811.43035.YahooMailNeo@web120902.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <32A42C73C6574C52852DAEDACFF7464E@GregPC> <144DCD7991374E11B972A3661BD0F66A@bboffice> Message-ID: Similar story, I whacked a curb pretty good when the crappy tires on my old TR4a hydroplaned (or maybe it was a crappy driver). Bent the heck out of the wheel, but it didn't fail completely, limped home. Greg Lemon From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Tue Aug 28 22:43:13 2012 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2012 21:43:13 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 Temp Gauge Acting Up Message-ID: <1346215393.67058.YahooMailNeo@web180901.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> My TR3 temperature gauge doesn't come up to the usual temperature in our cool mornings. I have a 185 thermostat, the bypass blanked off (with a 1/8 hole drilled in the pipe plug) and an electric cooling fan set to come on at 185 degrees. In the mornings my temp gauge reads like 100 degrees (on a mid-50's morning). On my way home from work the outside temp is over 100 and the temperature gauge reads like 135. I drive like hell too, it should be at 185 where it always has read. So I thought that it must be that the thermostat was stuck open. I took out my infrared thermometer and measured the water pump housing (about 195) and the thermostat housing (185) and the water in the radiator and radiator itself (about 185), so the thermostat is working apparently and the gauge was reading 135. I had the gauge and sender rebuilt by West Valley Instrument about 10 years ago. Is the sending bulb in the thermostat housing giving it up? I am afraid to try to take the bulb sender unit out because if it isn't broke then it will be. What gives? Is there something I should do before pulling the gauge and sending it out to WVI? TIA, Bill in Tehachapi From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Aug 28 22:49:49 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2012 21:49:49 -0700 Subject: [TR] Wire Wheels--Safety In-Reply-To: <144DCD7991374E11B972A3661BD0F66A@bboffice> References: <1346202811.43035.YahooMailNeo@web120902.mail.ne1.yahoo.com><32A42C73C6574C52852DAEDACFF7464E@GregPC> <144DCD7991374E11B972A3661BD0F66A@bboffice> Message-ID: <030801cd85a1$b8f84680$0601a8c0@randall> > You will have plenty of warning > from a spoke > here or there when things are starting to so south. Keep an eye on the splines, though. I had just backed out of the driveway when mine failed, so no real drama; but it could have been a lot worse on the freeway. And make sure the special nuts that hold the adapters are tight. They are supposed to be torqued to 65 ftlb, which tighter than usual for steel wheels. I didn't even know I had a problem until the car went sideways on an off-ramp. -- Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Aug 28 23:26:34 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2012 22:26:34 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Temp Gauge Acting Up In-Reply-To: <1346215393.67058.YahooMailNeo@web180901.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1346215393.67058.YahooMailNeo@web180901.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <030f01cd85a6$db705590$0601a8c0@randall> Stock type gauge? If so, it has probably leaked out all its ether. Time to ship it off to WVI again. Worth asking, they might even warranty it, or at least give you a break on a refill. -- Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Aug 28 23:42:15 2012 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 28 Aug 2012 22:42:15 -0700 Subject: [TR] Electric Fan wiring - TR3 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <031301cd85a9$0bc99560$0601a8c0@randall> > I am looking at a manual switch only. You might want to reconsider that, Carl. I used a manual switch for many years, and I was forever forgetting to turn it off, or worse, turn it on. Feels really stupid to be sitting at long traffic light and realize that the smoke drifting through the intersection is actually steam from your radiator. Being too stubborn (& cheap) to buy any of the many automatic switches on the market, I finally made my own little trigger circuit from scrap electronic components and an old gauge sender. Another of those "Why didn't I do that sooner?" moments! > C2/87 to Fan also indicator lamp (probably brown/white as well) > > ?? from ?? to Switch to W1/85 (when key on) - what color? And where > connected? Start from the 'green' circuit (ie fused, controlled by ignition switch). Or if you prefer, add another fuse fed from the white circuit. Color is kind of up to you, maybe green to the switch and then green/slate or what-have-you to the relay. I'm not slavish about having all the wire colors unique (which is good, because all the wires in my original wiring harness have faded to tan & black). > Relays are my nemesis. am I correct? Yup, should work. -- Randall From mrm at clking.com Wed Aug 29 04:59:54 2012 From: mrm at clking.com (Mitch R. Meisler) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2012 06:59:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] Wire Wheels--Safety In-Reply-To: <030801cd85a1$b8f84680$0601a8c0@randall> References: <1346202811.43035.YahooMailNeo@web120902.mail.ne1.yahoo.com><32A42C73C6574C52852DAEDACFF7464E@GregPC> <144DCD7991374E11B972A3661BD0F66A@bboffice> <030801cd85a1$b8f84680$0601a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <2B424E25DFFFC6489929D364DFBAE0990F1D5F0718@clking01exc02> Related question. Who have you guys used to true your wire wheels? I've had my chrome wires about 15 yrs, never had them serviced, and I'm getting a wobble at speed that tells me it's time. An yone use Hendrix Wire Wheel in NC? Anyone else worth considering on the East Coast? REGISTER/REQUEST MTGS W/80+ COS PRESENTING AT CL KING 10TH ANNUAL BEST IDEAS CONFERENCE, 9/12-9/13 at the Omni Berkshire Hotel in NYC. http://www.meetmax.com/clking12reg.html Mitch Meisler Managing Director, Institutional Sales CL King & Associates Nine Elk Street Albany, New York, 12207 518-431-3512-work 518-528-2263-cell AOL IM = MEISLERCLKA E-MAIL = mrm at clking.com The views and recommendations in this communication are views of the CL King & Associates Institutional Sales Desk. Unless otherwise indicated, this communication has not been produced by CL King's Research Department and does not constitute research. This material is provided to you for information purposes only. CL King is not offering to buy or sell or solicit offers to buy or sell any financial instrument. CL King has no obligation to update its opinions or the information in this material. CL King and its affiliates and their respective officers, directors, partners and employees, including persons involved in the preparation or issuance of this communication, may from time to time act as manager, co-manager or underwriter of a public offering or otherwise, in the capacity of principal or agent, deal in, hold or act as market-makers or advisors, brokers or commercial and/or investment bankers in relation to the securities or related derivatives which are subject to this material. Neither CL King, nor any affiliate, nor any of their respective officers, directors, partners, or employees accepts any liability whatsoever for any direct or consequential loss arising from the use of this material or its content. The securities discussed in this material may not be suitable for all investors. CL King recommends that investors independently evaluate each issuer, security or instrument discussed in this material, and consult any independent advisors they believe necessary. The value of and income from any investment may fluctuate from day to day as a result of changes in relevant economic markets (including changes in market liquidity). The information in this material is not intended to predict actual results, which may differ substantially from those reflected. CL King is a member of FINRA and SIPC. WBE certified. For more information about CL King & Associates go to: www.clking.com. If you are not an intended recipient of this e-mail, do not duplicate or redistribute it by any means. Please delete it and any attachments and notify the sender that you have received it in error. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2012 12:50 AM To: 'list Triumph' Subject: Re: [TR] Wire Wheels--Safety > You will have plenty of warning > from a spoke > here or there when things are starting to so south. Keep an eye on the splines, though. I had just backed out of the driveway when mine failed, so no real drama; but it could have been a lot worse on the freeway. And make sure the special nuts that hold the adapters are tight. They are supposed to be torqued to 65 ftlb, which tighter than usual for steel wheels. I didn't even know I had a problem until the car went sideways on an off-ramp. -- Randall ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mrm at clking.com ______________________________________________________________________ This email has been scanned by the Symantec Email Security.cloud service. For more information please visit http://www.symanteccloud.com ______________________________________________________________________ From yellowtr at adelphia.net Wed Aug 29 06:51:30 2012 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2012 08:51:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] speedy bleed In-Reply-To: <1346204527.10693.YahooMailNeo@web65506.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <1346204527.10693.YahooMailNeo@web65506.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <503E1052.2060905@adelphia.net> Gary, I also used speed bleeders on my 72. I had the same problems as you when trying to bleed from the rear. First, I loosened the fittings exiting the MC until I could see fluid flowing. Then I started on the right front and was able to get both front calipers to bleed correctly. I then turned to the rears and I still couldn't get any fluid by pumping the MC. So I removed the line from the slave on the drivers side and just let it sit there with a cup underneath to catch any fluid. Well, about an hour later, fluid started to drip so I re-attached the line and was able to bleed both rears just fine using the speed bleeders. I am guessing, since all my lines were empty, that I had so much air in the lines that I just had to let gravity do its job. Some 6 owners have said it may be the pressure switch not letting fluid to the rears so make sure your switch is set correctly before and after bleeding. Others have said that the MC must be bench primed. I have never done that on any of my Triumphs. Bob On 08/28/2012 09:42 PM, Gary Nafziger wrote: > Installed a new master cylinder (tr-6) along with speedy bleeders on all > corners. Attempted to bleed starting from right rear wheel and got nowhere. > I > ended up taking out the speedy bleeder and tried blowing/sucking by mouth. It > didn't seem to make any difference as I could suck and blow through the > bleeder without any change. I'm thinking the bleeder should block during a > suck or blow if its working right. Has anyone else had an issue with speedy > bleeders? Or is simple mouth pressure not enough to make it work? > > thanks > gary n. From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed Aug 29 07:08:04 2012 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2012 09:08:04 -0400 Subject: [TR] speedy bleed In-Reply-To: <503E1052.2060905@adelphia.net> References: <1346204527.10693.YahooMailNeo@web65506.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> <503E1052.2060905@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <2840B7BA73D5418C9782FA59AA5F4776@BobDell> Here's a simple tool you can make to ease the pain of bleeding...... http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/BrakeBleedTool.htm Bob Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/ 1975 TR6 modified with: -Throttle Body Injection -Toyota 5 Speed -Nissan Differential -AAW Wire Harness -CVJs... and more -----Original Message----- From: Bob Labuz Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2012 8:51 AM To: Gary Nafziger Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] speedy bleed Gary, I also used speed bleeders on my 72. I had the same problems as you when trying to bleed from the rear. First, I loosened the fittings exiting the MC until I could see fluid flowing. Then I started on the right front and was able to get both front calipers to bleed correctly. I then turned to the rears and I still couldn't get any fluid by pumping the MC. So I removed the line from the slave on the drivers side and just let it sit there with a cup underneath to catch any fluid. Well, about an hour later, fluid started to drip so I re-attached the line and was able to bleed both rears just fine using the speed bleeders. I am guessing, since all my lines were empty, that I had so much air in the lines that I just had to let gravity do its job. Some 6 owners have said it may be the pressure switch not letting fluid to the rears so make sure your switch is set correctly before and after bleeding. Others have said that the MC must be bench primed. I have never done that on any of my Triumphs. Bob From tr250driver at aol.com Wed Aug 29 08:31:02 2012 From: tr250driver at aol.com (Darrell Floyd) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2012 10:31:02 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Knock in rear brakes? Message-ID: <8CF540A0CBF9558-1D00-42D79@webmail-m004.sysops.aol.com> Hi List, Shaking down the 68 TR250 for the trip to the 2012 6-PACK Trials. I have been chasing a knock in the rear since last year's VTR NATC in Breckinridge. It is a singular knock coming out of the driver's side rear immediately after the brakes are applied. It sounds like it is coming from the brakes but that's difficult to detrimine exactly. I and others have been all over the entire rear suspension and all that we found was loose nuts on both side axle flanges. All of the suspension was entirely rebuilt with urethane bushings, new brakes, shocks and u-joints last year. The loose nuts were tightened but the knock is still present. It is fairly annoying. So I am really stumped with this one. Should I just turn the radio up louder or is this the knock that a 250 makes right before the wheel falls off? Cheers, Darrell From wbeech at flash.net Wed Aug 29 08:51:58 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2012 09:51:58 -0500 Subject: [TR] Knock in rear brakes? In-Reply-To: <8CF540A0CBF9558-1D00-42D79@webmail-m004.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CF540A0CBF9558-1D00-42D79@webmail-m004.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: My first two thoughts would be the exhaust system moving against something when you apply the brakes. Or, your rear brake shoes/pads moving just a little on the first tap. For the exhaust, just shake everything and check the clearances as you did with the rear suspension. For the brakes, jack up the rear, set the parking brake and turn the wheel forward/backward, or shift from 1st to reverse, to see if there is any play. Is it possible to have someone stand along side the car as you drive by slowly and apply the brakes to listen for the knock? Just my two cents, Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Darrell Floyd Sent: Wednesday, August 29, 2012 9:31 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Knock in rear brakes? Hi List, Shaking down the 68 TR250 for the trip to the 2012 6-PACK Trials. I have been chasing a knock in the rear since last year's VTR NATC in Breckinridge. It is a singular knock coming out of the driver's side rear immediately after the brakes are applied. It sounds like it is coming from the brakes but that's difficult to detrimine exactly. I and others have been all over the entire rear suspension and all that we found was loose nuts on both side axle flanges. All of the suspension was entirely rebuilt with urethane bushings, new brakes, shocks and u-joints last year. The loose nuts were tightened but the knock is still present. It is fairly annoying. So I am really stumped with this one. Should I just turn the radio up louder or is this the knock that a 250 makes right before the wheel falls off? Cheers, Darrell ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Aug 29 09:31:48 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2012 11:31:48 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Knock in rear brakes? Message-ID: <53fc1.54bc0cab.3d6f8fe4@cs.com> I had what a noise that I was convinced was a rear wheel bearing. When I crawled under the car to pull the hub off I found it was the U-joint on the half shaft. What luck. U-joint problems can be obvious but sometimes they can be misleading. Dave In a message dated 8/29/2012 9:31:11 AM Central Daylight Time, tr250driver at aol.com writes: > Hi List, > Shaking down the 68 TR250 for the trip to the 2012 6-PACK Trials. I have > been > chasing a knock in the rear since last year's VTR NATC in Breckinridge. > It is > a singular knock coming out of the driver's side rear immediately after > the > brakes are applied. It sounds like it is coming from the brakes but that's > difficult to detrimine exactly. I and others have been all over the entire > rear suspension and all that we found was loose nuts on both side axle > flanges. All of the suspension was entirely rebuilt with urethane > bushings, > new brakes, shocks and u-joints last year. The loose nuts were tightened > but > the knock is still present. It is fairly annoying. So I am really stumped > with this one. Should I just turn the radio up louder or is this the > knock > that a 250 makes right before the wheel falls off? > Cheers, > Darrell From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk Wed Aug 29 09:44:06 2012 From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2012 16:44:06 +0100 (BST) Subject: [TR] Knock in rear brakes? In-Reply-To: <53fc1.54bc0cab.3d6f8fe4@cs.com> References: <53fc1.54bc0cab.3d6f8fe4@cs.com> Message-ID: <1346255046.96304.YahooMailNeo@web29404.mail.ird.yahoo.com> The other thing which springs to mind is were the half shafts separated male from female during the rebuild? Service Dept accepted practice (endorsed by my shop manual on the Big Saloon with basically the same suspension set-up) recommends centre-punching each half before splitting. This way you get the same grooves and splines mating up on rebuild and a smear of copper-slip also helps Jonmac ________________________________ From: "Dave1massey at cs.com" To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, 29 August 2012, 16:31 Subject: Re: [TR] Knock in rear brakes? >I had what a noise that I was convinced was a rear wheel bearing. When I >crawled under the car to pull the hub off I found it was the U-joint on the >half shaft. What luck. > >U-joint problems can be obvious but sometimes they can be misleading. > >Dave > >In a message dated 8/29/2012 9:31:11 AM Central Daylight Time, >tr250driver at aol.com writes: >> Hi List, >> Shaking down the 68 TR250 for the trip to the 2012 6-PACK Trials. I have >> been >> chasing a knock in the rear since last year's VTR NATC in Breckinridge. >> It is >> a singular knock coming out of the driver's side rear immediately after >> the >> brakes are applied. It sounds like it is coming from the brakes but that's >> difficult to detrimine exactly. I and others have been all over the entire >> rear suspension and all that we found was loose nuts on both side axle >> flanges. All of the suspension was entirely rebuilt with urethane >> bushings, >> new brakes, shocks and u-joints last year. The loose nuts were tightened >> but >> the knock is still present. It is fairly annoying. So I am really stumped >> with this one. Should I just turn the radio up louder or is this the >> knock >> that a 250 makes right before the wheel falls off? >> Cheers, >> Darrell > >** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk From keithstewart at execulink.com Wed Aug 29 13:38:54 2012 From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2012 15:38:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] Wire Wheels--Safety In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <37508227-32FB-41B8-9468-16F47EC4F346@execulink.com> On Wed, 29 Aug 2012 at 06:59 AM Mitch R. Meisler wrote: > > Related question. Who have you guys used to true your wire wheels? I've had > my chrome wires about 15 yrs, never had them serviced, and I'm getting a > wobble at speed that tells me it's time. An yone use Hendrix Wire Wheel in > NC? Anyone else worth considering on the East Coast? Seriously? A four line query and a 41 line signature/advertisement? I have heard good things about Hendrix and believe they have been around for some time. From mrm at clking.com Wed Aug 29 13:48:17 2012 From: mrm at clking.com (Mitch R. Meisler) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2012 15:48:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] Wire Wheels--Safety In-Reply-To: <37508227-32FB-41B8-9468-16F47EC4F346@execulink.com> References: <37508227-32FB-41B8-9468-16F47EC4F346@execulink.com> Message-ID: <2B424E25DFFFC6489929D364DFBAE0990F1D5F073A@clking01exc02> Sorry for the 41 lines!! Forgot to delete my work propoganda Subject: Re: Wire Wheels--Safety On Wed, 29 Aug 2012 at 06:59 AM Mitch R. Meisler wrote: Related question. Who have you guys used to true your wire wheels? I've had my chrome wires about 15 yrs, never had them serviced, and I'm getting a wobble at speed that tells me it's time. An yone use Hendrix Wire Wheel in NC? Anyone else worth considering on the East Coast? Seriously? A four line query and a 41 line signature/advertisement? I have heard good things about Hendrix and believe they have been around for some time. ______________________________________________________________________ This email has been scanned by the Symantec Email Security.cloud service. For more information please visit http://www.symanteccloud.com ______________________________________________________________________ From perryfly at gmail.com Wed Aug 29 13:16:56 2012 From: perryfly at gmail.com (Perry Hammock) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2012 15:16:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] Wire wheels Message-ID: No one else to consider except Hendrix They really know their stuff Highly recommended Perry Hammock 1960 TR3A with a bent nose after a pickup truck backed into me last week From koblinger at verizon.net Wed Aug 29 21:02:15 2012 From: koblinger at verizon.net (Kurt Oblinger) Date: Wed, 29 Aug 2012 20:02:15 -0700 Subject: [TR] Trunnion Seals Message-ID: <503ED7B7.4090002@verizon.net> Has anyone ever replaced the thin seals that go under the flat washers for the trunnion with a like sized O-ring? Those seals seem to crack and break after no time at all. I have a selection of O-rings and the 1/8" thickness, 1-3/16" ID x 1-7/16" OD fits great. Anyone see a downside to this? Thanks, Kurt Oblinger Redondo Beach, Ca. (too many projects) From rtriplett25 at yahoo.com Thu Aug 30 04:52:23 2012 From: rtriplett25 at yahoo.com (richard triplett) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 03:52:23 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] (no subject) Message-ID: <1346323943.86542.YahooMailNeo@web161302.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> http://texas-allied-petroleum.org/wp-admin/ornvls.php?vvnz=vvnz From klassiccar at aol.com Thu Aug 30 14:15:29 2012 From: klassiccar at aol.com (klassiccar at aol.com) Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2012 16:15:29 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] British Reliability Run Message-ID: <8CF5503558EA682-1798-5806E@webmail-m151.sysops.aol.com> Here is a great weekend ride with fellow British car nuts, that is for a great cause. Please help us to drum up interest, and participants. Thanks for your help! The Route for the ABRR has been posted, and now begins and ends in Clinton, NJ! The total length of the drive will be approximately 650 miles spread out over two days with planned stops at Lime Rock Park for parade laps, Bennington, VT for a private tour of the Hemmings Gas Station led by Hemmings Sports and Exotic Editor David LaChance (who will be driving his Rover Saloon as a participant), Chester, NY for a tour of a private collection of Lotus cars, and an overnight stop in Schenectady. The route passes through NJ, NY, CT, MA, VT and PA and stays almost exclusively on State, US and back roads with little or no driving on the Interstates. Steve Klein klassiccar at aol.com Delaware Valley Triumphs October 19-21, 2012 Clinton, NJ. - America's British Reliability Run America's British Reliability Run is a 650 mile weekend drive for charity through the states of NJ, NY, CT, VT and PA. Each two person team pays their own expenses and solicits donations to the partner charity, in this case the Shriner's Childrens Hospital of Philadelphia. Since 2002, the ABRR has raised over $150,000 for worthy childrens charities throughout the US. Open to British vehicles of any vintage. Learn more atwww.BritishReliability.org. Contact: Bob DeLucia. Phone: --. Email:yukon80 at comcast.net. From cliff_hansen at earthlink.net Fri Aug 31 05:58:25 2012 From: cliff_hansen at earthlink.net (Cliff Hansen) Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2012 05:58:25 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR6 in Albuquerque Message-ID: <4B428CA1D17A447FAA8D67758A6064F7@Shemp> Saw a very nice white TR6 parked on Coal Ave Monday morning, anyone on the list? Cliff From aljlthomson at charter.net Fri Aug 31 08:38:46 2012 From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson) Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2012 10:38:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] FW: [CTR] Re: VIN for TR-4 1965 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <001901cd8786$5494d5a0$fdbe80e0$@charter.net> List - Is there an additional location where the serial number might be stamped into the frame? Alex Thomson From: CTRIUMPH at yahoogroups.com [mailto:CTRIUMPH at yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Roland Sent: Friday, August 31, 2012 8:47 AM To: CTRIUMPH at yahoogroups.com Subject: [CTR] Re: VIN for TR-4 1965 Dear Membership I have a 1965 Tr-4. I have a potential buyer But he is hesitant because the tag with the VIN number for the car is missing. I do have the car registered in Florida and have the Title Certificate. Both have the Vin listed on these certificates. Is there a solution?? Your Answers would be appreciated. Roland > > From: CTRIUMPH at yahoogroups.com [mailto:CTRIUMPH at yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf > Of Terry Telke > Sent: Friday, August 10, 2012 10:38 AM > To: ctRIUMPH at yahoogroups.com > Subject: [CTR] BUGATTI VEYRON > __._,_.___ Reply to sender | Reply to group | Reply via web post | Start a New Topic Messages in this topic (4) Recent Activity: Visit Your Group For latest CTR info visit the CTR WEBPAGE click here: http://www.CTRIUMPH.com Shortcut to CTR eGroup Home Page click here: http://www.yahoogroups.com/community/CTRIUMPH To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: CTRIUMPH-unsubscribe at yahoogroups.com Continue the Legend........... Yahoo! Groups Switch to: Text-Only, Daily Digest . Unsubscribe . Terms of Use . __,_._,___ From guy at genfiniti.com Fri Aug 31 09:09:01 2012 From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins) Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2012 10:09:01 -0500 Subject: [TR] Temp Gauge Question Message-ID: All, My TR4A has a Jaeger temp gauge with a range of "C" through "H". Does anyone know the actual temperatures represented by "C" and "H"? Cheers, Guy D. Huggins 1965 Triumph TR4A CTC 63569LO Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph From darrellw360 at mac.com Fri Aug 31 09:16:15 2012 From: darrellw360 at mac.com (Darrell Walker) Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2012 08:16:15 -0700 Subject: [TR] Temp Gauge Question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <58FC6F9F-910D-4359-8CA4-7BA3D5E453A5@mac.com> Hi Guy, The gauge on my TR4A is marked in Centigrade, it is 30 on the low end, 70 at the middle, and 100 at the high end. -Darrell -- Darrell Walker 66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L 81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206 Vancouver, WA, USA From yellowtr at adelphia.net Fri Aug 31 10:33:13 2012 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2012 12:33:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] FW: [CTR] Re: VIN for TR-4 1965 In-Reply-To: <001901cd8786$5494d5a0$fdbe80e0$@charter.net> References: <001901cd8786$5494d5a0$fdbe80e0$@charter.net> Message-ID: <5040E749.2050101@adelphia.net> Alex, There is a body # located somewhere near the right rear wheel well but I cant remember exactly where. But this is not the commission number you are seeking. There should also be a body # on the upper engine bay on the left just in front of the regulator. But this is not the commission number either. On my 4, the numbers around 6000 apart. I think the engine # should be closer to the commission # but cant be sure since I cannot read mine. Eyes too bad and it is painted black. Maybe you can contact your DMV for guidance? If they approve, you can buy a new plate and stamp in the number that is recorded on the title. Bob On 08/31/2012 10:38 AM, Alex & Janet Thomson wrote: > List - Is there an additional location where the serial number might be > stamped into the frame? > > > > Alex Thomson From cliff_hansen at earthlink.net Fri Aug 31 10:34:56 2012 From: cliff_hansen at earthlink.net (Cliff Hansen) Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2012 10:34:56 -0600 (GMT-06:00) Subject: [TR] FW: [CTR] Re: VIN for TR-4 1965 Message-ID: <16151116.1346430897087.JavaMail.root@elwamui-hybrid.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Having examined every inch of two TR4A frames I would say no. There's a frame number stamped into the front crossmember but its not the same as the car's VIN. Cliff -----Original Message----- >From: Alex & Janet Thomson >Sent: Aug 31, 2012 8:38 AM >To: Triumphs at autox.team.net >Subject: [TR] FW: [CTR] Re: VIN for TR-4 1965 > >List - Is there an additional location where the serial number might be >stamped into the frame? > > > >Alex Thomson > > > >From: CTRIUMPH at yahoogroups.com [mailto:CTRIUMPH at yahoogroups.com] On Behalf >Of Roland >Sent: Friday, August 31, 2012 8:47 AM >To: CTRIUMPH at yahoogroups.com >Subject: [CTR] Re: VIN for TR-4 1965 > > > > > > >Dear Membership > >I have a 1965 Tr-4. I have a potential buyer But he is hesitant because the >tag with the VIN number for the car is missing. I do have the car registered >in Florida and have the Title Certificate. Both have the Vin listed on these >certificates. Is there a solution?? Your Answers would be appreciated. >Roland > >> >> From: CTRIUMPH at yahoogroups.com >[mailto:CTRIUMPH at yahoogroups.com ] On >Behalf >> Of Terry Telke >> Sent: Friday, August 10, 2012 10:38 AM >> To: ctRIUMPH at yahoogroups.com >> Subject: [CTR] BUGATTI VEYRON >> > >__._,_.___ > >Reply to >> sender | Reply to > >group | Reply >U5NzE0BGdycElkAzMxNDQ5MARncnBzcElkAzE3MDUwNjQ4MjUEbXNnSWQDMjM1OARzZWMDZnRyBH >NsawNycGx5BHN0aW1lAzEzNDY0MTcyNDc-?act=reply&messageNum=2358> via web post | >U5NzE0BGdycElkAzMxNDQ5MARncnBzcElkAzE3MDUwNjQ4MjUEc2VjA2Z0cgRzbGsDbnRwYwRzdG >ltZQMxMzQ2NDE3MjQ3> Start a New Topic > >Messages in this topic >9TAzk3MzU5NzE0BGdycElkAzMxNDQ5MARncnBzcElkAzE3MDUwNjQ4MjUEbXNnSWQDMjM1OARzZW >MDZnRyBHNsawN2dHBjBHN0aW1lAzEzNDY0MTcyNDcEdHBjSWQDMjM0Mg--> (4) > >Recent Activity: > > >0BGdycElkAzMxNDQ5MARncnBzcElkAzE3MDUwNjQ4MjUEc2VjA3Z0bARzbGsDdmdocARzdGltZQM >xMzQ2NDE3MjQ3> Visit Your Group > > For latest CTR info visit the CTR WEBPAGE click here: > http://www.CTRIUMPH.com > > Shortcut to CTR eGroup Home Page click here: > http://www.yahoogroups.com/community/CTRIUMPH > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: > CTRIUMPH-unsubscribe at yahoogroups.com > > Continue the Legend........... > > >DQ5MARncnBzcElkAzE3MDUwNjQ4MjUEc2VjA2Z0cgRzbGsDZ2ZwBHN0aW1lAzEzNDY0MTcyNDc-> >Yahoo! Groups > >Switch to: >mat:%20Traditional> Text-Only, > >Daily Digest . > >Unsubscribe . Terms of Use > >. > > >2358/stime=1346417247/nc1=5191952/nc2=5028925/nc3=4767086> > >__,_._,___ > >** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cliff_hansen at earthlink.net From rtriplett25 at yahoo.com Fri Aug 31 10:59:29 2012 From: rtriplett25 at yahoo.com (richard triplett) Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2012 09:59:29 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] (no subject) Message-ID: <1346432369.95220.YahooMailNeo@web161302.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> http://www.dylmo.com/pmngbl.php?lzzv=lzzv From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com Fri Aug 31 12:27:03 2012 From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (Brian Induni) Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2012 11:27:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] VIN for TR-4 1965 Message-ID: <003301cd87a6$381b0c30$a8512490$@roadrunner.com> Roland, My '67 4A had the VIN stamped on one of the front spring towers (don't recall which one), but I only saw it after I sandblasted the stripped frame. It's faint and more than likely covert with some dirt, and in a really tough spot to see unless the you have the naked frame to inspect. IMHO, if you have the clear title in hand and the car is currently registered, I don't see an issue. VIN plates are readily available from Moss and easy to stamp. Why not order a plate yourself and correct the issue? That's the simplest solution. Brian '66 AH Sprite (driver) '63 MGB (in resto process) '73 Stag (waiting patiently for her turn) ------------------------------ Dear Membership I have a 1965 Tr-4. I have a potential buyer But he is hesitant because the tag with the VIN number for the car is missing. I do have the car registered in Florida and have the Title Certificate. Both have the Vin listed on these certificates. Is there a solution?? Your Answers would be appreciated. Roland From rtriplett25 at yahoo.com Fri Aug 31 13:47:17 2012 From: rtriplett25 at yahoo.com (richard triplett) Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2012 12:47:17 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] email hacked Message-ID: <1346442437.87150.YahooMailNeo@web161304.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Sorry for the spam sent out. It took ~ 15 years, but my yahoo acct got hacked. A stronger password should take care of it, otherwise I will have to remove this email from the list. Good thing I only use yahoo for the TR list. Minimal contacts. Triumph-related, my TR3 is still running like a top! Richard TS75434L From fishplate at charter.net Fri Aug 31 14:29:08 2012 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff) Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2012 16:29:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] Temp Gauge Question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <50411E94.1000402@charter.net> On 8/31/2012 11:09 AM, G.D. Huggins wrote: > All, > > My TR4A has a Jaeger temp gauge with a range of "C" through "H". > Does anyone know the actual temperatures represented by "C" and "H"? "Chilly" and "Hades"? Sorry, it's Friday. That's the best I can do... Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. - now with Extra Moisture! From trguy75 at gmail.com Fri Aug 31 14:56:24 2012 From: trguy75 at gmail.com (James Henningsen) Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2012 16:56:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] Vintage Triumph Signs Message-ID: <018501cd87bb$169bb630$43d32290$@gmail.com> Anyone have any vintage Triumph dealer signs and the like that they would like to sell? Please contact me off list. Thanks, Jim Henningsen Ocala FL 62 TR4 75 TR6 Trguy75 at gmail.com From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Aug 31 15:16:53 2012 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2012 17:16:53 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Temp Gauge Question Message-ID: <1660f.6df42022.3d7283c5@cs.com> That's the beauty of using "C" and "H," you don't have to worry about accuracy. Dave In a message dated 8/31/2012 10:10:42 AM Central Daylight Time, guy at genfiniti.com writes: > My TR4A has a Jaeger temp gauge with a range of "C" through "H". > Does anyone know the actual temperatures represented by "C" and "H"? From amfoto1 at aol.com Fri Aug 31 16:56:24 2012 From: amfoto1 at aol.com (Alan Myers) Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2012 18:56:24 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] VIN for TR-4 1965 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CF55E2FB001271-CF8-68DCF@Webmail-m108.sysops.aol.com> Hi Roland, Sorry, but as others have already responded, none of the other numbers you might find will match the VIN. There are numbers on the body, the frame, the engine, the gearbox and the rear end.... Some of those might be close, but on Triumphs they never match the VIN number. Sometimes they are way, way off. There was no effort made to match the numbers at the factory. Whatever happened to be on top of the pile got put together, period. Last time I looked, you can buy brand new VIN plates, not yet imprinted with the number. Check with all the usual suppliers. I'm sure one or several offer them. Take one of those and your registration and/or title to a machine shop and have them stamp the number onto it for you (if you don't want to buy a set of number stamps and do it yourself). If I recall correctly, the letters and numbers are 1/4 inch tall. On a TR4 what will probably be imprinted is first the year of registration followed by "CT", then the number, followed by "L" for lefthand drive, and possibly by "O" if your car was originally fitted with an overdrive. For example, on my car it's "1964 CT17602L". After it's stamped, pop rivet the new VIN plate onto the car (usually located on the flat area sort of under the wiper motor on TR4), and you're all set! Problem solved! If you didn't have the title certificate or wanted to check its accuracy, you can get a British Motor Industry Heritage Trust build certificate for your car that will list all the original details of your car, including some of the serial numbers, interior and exterior colors, factory installed options and accessories, the port of departure from England and port of arrival in the US, and usually even the name of the ship that brought it to the new world. If you want a build certificate, you'll have to check with BMIHT to see how long it takes and what they need to track one down. I just gave them my VIN number when I ordered my build certificate years ago, but they might be able to cross reference from one of the other numbers, if you locate those and are certain that parts never been swapped out for one from another car. Here's a link to BMIHT: http://www.heritage-motor-centre.co.uk/archive-services/ Alan Myers San Jose, Calif. amfoto1 at aol.com '62 TR CT 17602L twww.triumphowners.com/640 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-request To: triumphs Sent: Fri, Aug 31, 2012 11:06 am Subject: Triumphs Digest, Vol 5, Issue 357 Dear Membership I have a 1965 Tr-4. I have a potential buyer But he is hesitant because the tag with the VIN number for the car is missing. I do have the car registered in Florida and have the Title Certificate. Both have the Vin listed on these certificates. Is there a solution?? Your Answers would be appreciated. Roland From wbeech at flash.net Fri Aug 31 17:28:26 2012 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2012 18:28:26 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Adustable Upper Fulcrum Kit Message-ID: Don't know if the link below for Moss UK will come through but I got an email ad from them this week for an adjustable upper fulcrum kit. Seems this would be a fine addition to the handling of a basically stock TR3. Moss UK part number is: 200659X at a cost of #122.46. Has anyone used these? Are they worth the investment? Is there a stateside source, as Moss US does not list them? View adjusted front upper fulcrum kit: Have a great weekend, NFI, Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby" '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" www.triumphowners.com/1566 '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" "If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow" M.Andretti ________________________________ From: Moss Europe Ltd. [mailto:moss at moss-europe.co.uk] ________________________________ Customer favourites recommended by our very own Sales Team! ...This is what our sales team say other TR2-4A customers have been buying recently... Adjustable Front Upper Fulcrum Kit Allows easy adjustment of the camber angle of the front suspension. Designed primarily for competition use to give maximum control for setting the camber angle, it is also useful for correcting alignment problems on slightly distorted chassis. Tweet this product View adjustable front upper fulcrum kit Part No. 200659X #122.46 ex VAT #146.95 inc VAT View adjusted front upper fulcrum kit Tweet this product 5/5 Stars! Kind regards, Matthew Hutchins Marketing Manager From don.hiscock at gmail.com Fri Aug 31 17:44:39 2012 From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2012 18:44:39 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Adustable Upper Fulcrum Kit In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: That TR2-4 upper fulcrum kit is one of Neil Revington's parts. http://www.revingtontr.com/shop/product_display.asp?mscssid=WW7WU9QQ62H98J16EUQ134N19UNT5AV2&CarType=TR3&ProductID=RTR3112K http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=7614&SortOrder=1 I don't have one on my car, and I've heard only a little about it (positive FWIW). Don 1962 TR3B TSF202L On 8/31/12, Wbeech wrote: > Don't know if the link below for Moss UK will come through but I got an > email ad from them this week for an adjustable upper fulcrum kit. Seems > this would be a fine addition to the handling of a basically stock TR3. > Moss UK part number is: 200659X at a cost of #122.46. > > Has anyone used these? Are they worth the investment? Is there a > stateside > source, as Moss US does not list them? > > View adjusted front upper fulcrum kit: > > > Have a great weekend, NFI, > Bill > > Bill Beecher > '58 TR3A TS/30766L "Tarbaby" > '62 TR3B TCF/2549L " Aunt B" > www.triumphowners.com/1566 > '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" > "If you think you have everything under control... You're driving too slow" > M.Andretti > > ________________________________ > > From: Moss Europe Ltd. [mailto:moss at moss-europe.co.uk] > ________________________________ > > Customer favourites recommended by our very own Sales Team! > > ...This is what our sales team say other TR2-4A customers have been buying > recently... > > Adjustable Front Upper Fulcrum Kit > mail=wbeech at flash.net> > Allows easy adjustment of the camber angle of the front suspension. > Designed > primarily for competition use to give maximum control for setting the > camber > angle, it is also useful for correcting alignment problems on slightly > distorted chassis. > > Tweet this product adjustable front upper fulcrum kit from Moss Europe http://bit.ly/RpSwCT > @MossEurope> View adjustable front upper fulcrum kit > mail=wbeech at flash.net> > Part No. 200659X > #122.46 ex VAT > #146.95 inc VAT > > View adjusted front upper fulcrum kit > mail=wbeech at flash.net> Tweet this product > 5/5 > Stars! > > Kind regards, > Matthew Hutchins > Marketing Manager > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com From aljlthomson at charter.net Fri Aug 31 18:10:48 2012 From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson) Date: Fri, 31 Aug 2012 20:10:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] VIN Plate Message-ID: <001501cd87d6$4144ee40$c3cecac0$@charter.net> Listers - Thanks to all who responded to a CTR member's question about VIN plates. Alex Thomson