From Catpusher at aol.com  Sun Apr  1 00:52:20 2012
From: Catpusher at aol.com (Catpusher at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2012 02:52:20 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Subject:  TR3 Castor Angle?
Message-ID: <3d7d9.5fa47d00.3ca95524@aol.com>

The zero castor may differ from a new SUV, but it is a plus with the  
standard steering box and the steering friction issues that castor adds to that  
system.  I rather enjoyed the ability to steer the TR3 into a constant  
radius corner and have it follow with no further force required. 
The option is to fit the late TR4/4A/250/TR6  front suspension, which  has 
3 Degrees of castor: good for racing, but do you do that?
 
TR Regards,
Hardy
 
 
In a message dated 3/31/2012 11:11:09 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
triumphs-request at autox.team.net writes:

From:  <wbeech at flash.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject:  [TR] TR3 Castor Angle?
Message-ID:  <2E5A12970C3A438AB5897784E1475429 at bboffice>
Content-Type: text/plain;  charset="us-ascii"

When I ask my alignment guy why the steering on my  car does not try to
return to center after a turn he explained it was  because the castor was 
set
at nil and is not adjustable.

Is there an  alternative way to make the steering a little more driver
friendly?  I  have not gone to R&P steering as I am trying to keep this car
as  original as  possible.

Bill

From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Apr  1 02:21:28 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 01 Apr 2012 02:21:28 -0600
Subject: [TR] Is this thing on??
In-Reply-To: <AE0952D0F8734973B7CE1FD2CF56E906@bboffice>
References: <20120316031737.5C9052E068@bradakis.com>
	<AE0952D0F8734973B7CE1FD2CF56E906@bboffice>
Message-ID: <4F781008.1010903@bradakis.com>

wbeech at flash.net wrote:
> Mark,
> I can only see Archives from 2009.  I'm always a few steps behind the rest
> of the pack but others might be interested to know what happened yesterday.
>

Yes, there are problems with the archives.  I think that maybe I'll
just not worry about it and go ahead and shut down Team.Net today.

mjb.

From pbrandsema at triad.rr.com  Sun Apr  1 07:18:23 2012
From: pbrandsema at triad.rr.com (pbrandsema at triad.rr.com)
Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2012 13:18:23 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR4 Generator Electrical Arcing
Message-ID: <20120401131823.40ATI.107433.root@hrndva-web23-z02>

Thanks to everyone who replied to my question about generator arcing.  My suspicion was that it was the brushes was correct.  The brushes themselves looked great, but one of brushes was not sliding freely in its holder.  Cleaned up the brush with steel wool and also cleanup the holders.

Makes sense that the arcing was due to the gap between the brush and the commuter.


Paul Brandsema
61 TR4

From wbeech at flash.net  Sun Apr  1 07:42:41 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2012 08:42:41 -0500
Subject: [TR] Subject:  TR3 Castor Angle?
In-Reply-To: <3d7d9.5fa47d00.3ca95524@aol.com>
References: <3d7d9.5fa47d00.3ca95524@aol.com>
Message-ID: <13159F552E204CEA9322B8EBB2711BEC@bboffice>

NO, not a racer, it just seemed more noticeable since the front-end
alignment.
 
Thanks to all that responded, consensus is that this is a normal TR3 set up.
 
Bill

________________________________

From: Catpusher at aol.com [mailto:Catpusher at aol.com] 
Sent: Sunday, April 01, 2012 1:52 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Cc: wbeech at flash.net
Subject: Re:Subject: [TR] TR3 Castor Angle? 


The zero castor may differ from a new SUV, but it is a plus with the
standard steering box and the steering friction issues that castor adds to
that system.  I rather enjoyed the ability to steer the TR3 into a constant
radius corner and have it follow with no further force required. 
The option is to fit the late TR4/4A/250/TR6  front suspension, which has 3
Degrees of castor: good for racing, but do you do that?
 
TR Regards,
Hardy
 
In a message dated 3/31/2012 11:11:09 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
triumphs-request at autox.team.net writes:

	From: <wbeech at flash.net>
	To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
	Subject: [TR] TR3 Castor Angle?
	Message-ID: <2E5A12970C3A438AB5897784E1475429 at bboffice>
	Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
	
	When I ask my alignment guy why the steering on my car does not try
to
	return to center after a turn he explained it was because the castor
was set
	at nil and is not adjustable.
	
	Is there an alternative way to make the steering a little more
driver
	friendly?  I have not gone to R&P steering as I am trying to keep
this car
	as original as possible.
	
	Bill

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Sun Apr  1 09:51:03 2012
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2012 10:51:03 -0500
Subject: [TR] Is this thing on??
In-Reply-To: <4F781008.1010903@bradakis.com>
References: <20120316031737.5C9052E068@bradakis.com>,
	<AE0952D0F8734973B7CE1FD2CF56E906@bboffice>,
	<4F781008.1010903@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <SNT123-W57C00D15C2516897D76366E14F0@phx.gbl>

You mean for maintenance, right?  That statement could be read that this is
the end!I thought the world wasn't to end until December.
Rich White Central, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF###L
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!

 > Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2012 02:21:28 -0600
> From: mark at bradakis.com
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] Is this thing on??
>
> wbeech at flash.net wrote:
> > Mark,
> > I can only see Archives from 2009.  I'm always a few steps behind the
rest
> > of the pack but others might be interested to know what happened
yesterday.
> >
>
> Yes, there are problems with the archives.  I think that maybe I'll
> just not worry about it and go ahead and shut down Team.Net today.
>
> mjb.
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com

From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Apr  1 12:43:44 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 01 Apr 2012 12:43:44 -0600
Subject: [TR] Is this thing on??
In-Reply-To: <SNT123-W57C00D15C2516897D76366E14F0@phx.gbl>
References: <20120316031737.5C9052E068@bradakis.com>,
	<AE0952D0F8734973B7CE1FD2CF56E906@bboffice>,
	<4F781008.1010903@bradakis.com>
	<SNT123-W57C00D15C2516897D76366E14F0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4F78A1E0.6050904@bradakis.com>

Rich White wrote:
> You mean for maintenance, right?  That statement could be read that this is
> the end!I thought the world wasn't to end until December.
>

No, I meant shut it down completely, turn it all off and get on
with my life.  I added the "today" to see if folks remembered the
significance of this first Sunday in April.

mjb.

From spitlist at cox.net  Sun Apr  1 13:09:22 2012
From: spitlist at cox.net (spitlist at cox.net)
Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2012 12:09:22 -0700
Subject: [TR] Is this thing on??
In-Reply-To: <4F78A1E0.6050904@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <20120401150922.X62G2.196530.imail@fed1rmwml213>

Yeah, I know the significance.  It's my birthday!

Joe

---- Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com> wrote: 
> Rich White wrote:
> > You mean for maintenance, right?  That statement could be read that this is
> > the end!I thought the world wasn't to end until December.
> >
> 
> No, I meant shut it down completely, turn it all off and get on
> with my life.  I added the "today" to see if folks remembered the
> significance of this first Sunday in April.
> 
> mjb.
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net

From aljlthomson at charter.net  Sun Apr  1 13:41:48 2012
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson)
Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2012 15:41:48 -0400
Subject: [TR] Is this thing on??
In-Reply-To: <4F781008.1010903@bradakis.com>
References: <20120316031737.5C9052E068@bradakis.com>
	<AE0952D0F8734973B7CE1FD2CF56E906@bboffice>
	<4F781008.1010903@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <001401cd103f$7a4e0550$6eea0ff0$@charter.net>

Mark - Do you wonder how many blank, hollow stares you created this morning,
April First?
Thanks for all that you do.
Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis
Sent: Sunday, April 01, 2012 4:21 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Is this thing on??

wbeech at flash.net wrote:
> Mark,
> I can only see Archives from 2009.  I'm always a few steps behind the 
> rest of the pack but others might be interested to know what happened
yesterday.
>

Yes, there are problems with the archives.  I think that maybe I'll just not
worry about it and go ahead and shut down Team.Net today.

mjb.

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net

From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Apr  1 14:02:13 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 01 Apr 2012 14:02:13 -0600
Subject: [TR] Is this thing on??
In-Reply-To: <001401cd103f$7a4e0550$6eea0ff0$@charter.net>
References: <20120316031737.5C9052E068@bradakis.com>
	<AE0952D0F8734973B7CE1FD2CF56E906@bboffice>
	<4F781008.1010903@bradakis.com>
	<001401cd103f$7a4e0550$6eea0ff0$@charter.net>
Message-ID: <4F78B445.1050808@bradakis.com>

Alex & Janet Thomson wrote:
> Mark - Do you wonder how many blank, hollow stares you created this morning,
>

That was the plan ;-)

mjb.

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Sun Apr  1 14:25:08 2012
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh)
Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2012 13:25:08 -0700
Subject: [TR] Is this thing on??
In-Reply-To: <001401cd103f$7a4e0550$6eea0ff0$@charter.net>
References: <20120316031737.5C9052E068@bradakis.com>
	<AE0952D0F8734973B7CE1FD2CF56E906@bboffice>
	<4F781008.1010903@bradakis.com>
	<001401cd103f$7a4e0550$6eea0ff0$@charter.net>
Message-ID: <F7B8BBAD-7994-45D2-8FF9-0C6AAC0062F5@comcast.net>

EGAD!!   A Systems Manager with a sense of humor  Surely the World must be
over 

		Great Joke  Mark  keep it up


> Mark - Do you wonder how many blank, hollow stares you created this
morning,
> April First?
> Thanks for all that you do.
> Alex Thomson
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis
> Sent: Sunday, April 01, 2012 4:21 AM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] Is this thing on??
>
> wbeech at flash.net wrote:
>> Mark,
>> I can only see Archives from 2009.  I'm always a few steps behind the
>> rest of the pack but others might be interested to know what happened
> yesterday.
>>
>
> Yes, there are problems with the archives.  I think that maybe I'll just
not
> worry about it and go ahead and shut down Team.Net today.
>
> mjb.
>



Bill Pugh
1957 TR3 "Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA
anabil007 at comcast.net

From dconnitt at fuse.net  Sun Apr  1 19:48:11 2012
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2012 21:48:11 -0400
Subject: [TR] Progress on the TR4A
Message-ID: <93C6CE99572640548E171B4262F45EEB@DaveLaptop>

Well,
I sent my SU HS-6 carburetor bodies off to Joe Curto Friday to get  new
throttle shafts and throttle plates installed. I also recieved my Caswell Zinc
Plating kit and was able to start plating some of the steel throttle hardware.
I really like the finish of zinc, not a "mirror" like chrome but still a very
nice finish. It took a bit to get the process dialed in but I was able to get
some pretty fair results today. I should be able to do many more pieces that
are currently just bare steel;
The steel top plate of the windshield wiper motor and the tube for the drive
cable,
The top cover of the PCV valvle.
The exposed door latches..
All the throttle linkages
It is probably a wash cost wise for the kit vs. sending it all out but the one
huge thing for me (besides it's fun) is that if anything gets lost, it's my
fault..
I should have the carburetor bodies back from Joe in a couple of weeks and
then I can finish putting them together. i should have all the hardware plated
by then ( I hope..).
Progress, however slight is still progress!
Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A IRS
http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a

From wbeech at flash.net  Sun Apr  1 20:14:51 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2012 21:14:51 -0500
Subject: [TR] Is this thing on??
In-Reply-To: <4F78B445.1050808@bradakis.com>
References: <20120316031737.5C9052E068@bradakis.com><AE0952D0F8734973B7CE1FD2CF56E906@bboffice><4F781008.1010903@bradakis.com><001401cd103f$7a4e0550$6eea0ff0$@charter.net>
	<4F78B445.1050808@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <D56A16F64F8545C99B3578F914B43530@bboffice>

Might be a good day to make a donation, just to be sure.

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS30766L "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Hello, my name is Bill and I own an old British car.  Now...What are the
next 11 steps?"
 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis
Sent: Sunday, April 01, 2012 3:02 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Is this thing on??

Alex & Janet Thomson wrote:
> Mark - Do you wonder how many blank, hollow stares you created this 
> morning,
>

That was the plan ;-)

mjb.

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Apr  1 21:12:27 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 01 Apr 2012 21:12:27 -0600
Subject: [TR] Archive progress
Message-ID: <4F79191B.20608@bradakis.com>

In spite of what my April Fool's joke said I have been working on
the archives.  They are still not perfect, but most of the posts from
the last few years are there now.  Link below, enjoy.

mjb.

From tom628 at verizon.net  Sun Apr  1 22:32:18 2012
From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note)
Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2012 00:32:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] Is this thing on??
References: <20120316031737.5C9052E068@bradakis.com>
	<AE0952D0F8734973B7CE1FD2CF56E906@bboffice>
	<4F781008.1010903@bradakis.com>
	<001401cd103f$7a4e0550$6eea0ff0$@charter.net>
	<4F78B445.1050808@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <292A9CA25BDA486CB7C0EFE52A044351@Toms>

Mark-  you just scared me into another (small) donation !
Thanks for all you do.
Tom
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark J Bradakis" <mark at bradakis.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 01, 2012 4:02 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Is this thing on??


> Alex & Janet Thomson wrote:
>> Mark - Do you wonder how many blank, hollow stares you created this 
>> morning,
>>
>
> That was the plan ;-)
>
> mjb.
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tom628 at verizon.net 

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Mon Apr  2 05:33:01 2012
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2012 07:33:01 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR2 progress Report
Message-ID: <CANhzkeO7NgecxToxL84R1=JHBSqmuk8MmVrLCwLU_=BuumdwiQ@mail.gmail.com>

Hi all!

Thought I'd give a brief update on how I'm doing with having the car ready
for it's 170 mile madien voyage to the Triumph Club of the Carolinas
Gathering at Shelton Vineyards in Dobson, NC on April 13th.

The car is not yet painted.....  but the engine bay and trunk have been
painted,  engine reinstalled, and reassembly has begun.

I bought a carpet set from Chart One on Ebay and that has arrived and will
go in after the shakedown drives.

Two of my Triumph club friends came over yesterday (thanks Bob and Jim) and
we block sanded the entire car and used icing to fix any minor dings and
air holes.   It's now almost 100% blocked and ready for final primer this
morning.

Blocking was a huge job and my shoulders may never be the same. The body
looks much better than I had planned, so I'm even more excited about the
final paint on Wednesday.

Then comes a ton of reassembly work - but it's gonna happen.

Thanks for all the help from this list - materially and sage advice.   The
front apron I snagged from Brian looks great on the car (much more work
than I thought but worth it) - The TR4 transmission is sitting snugly in
it's new home, The TR3 calipers are in place and waiting for use.

I've become very good at installing and removing the apron -  now to figure
out how to paint flexible rubber fender bead and install it without
cracking it.   Unless there are better thoughts out there I think I'm going
to cut a template from both fenders out of sheet metal and glue the bead to
that and install it as an assembly on the car. Minor problem - I'll figure
it out.

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Apr  2 05:36:22 2012
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2012 07:36:22 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Is this thing on??
Message-ID: <f003.48286cc0.3caae936@cs.com>

In a message dated 4/1/2012 2:04:44 PM Central Daylight Time, 
mark at bradakis.com writes: 
> No, I meant shut it down completely, turn it all off and get on
> with my life.  I added the "today" to see if folks remembered the
> significance of this first Sunday in April.
> 
> 

May as well, I sold my Triumphs and bought a Boxter.

Bye all.




No, wait!  This is April 2.  Um, never mind!

Dave

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Apr  2 05:44:57 2012
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2012 07:44:57 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Is this thing on??
Message-ID: <f27b.3b37efa6.3caaeb39@cs.com>

In a message dated 4/1/2012 2:35:52 PM Central Daylight Time, 
spitlist at cox.net writes: 
> Yeah, I know the significance.  It's my birthday!
> 
Again?!!!  You had one last year!

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Apr  2 05:57:38 2012
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2012 07:57:38 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Progress on the TR4A
Message-ID: <f653.5eb7c261.3caaee32@cs.com>

In a message dated 4/1/2012 9:10:44 PM Central Daylight Time, 
dconnitt at fuse.net writes: 
> . I also recieved my Caswell Zinc
> Plating kit and was able to start plating some of the steel throttle 
> hardware.
> I really like the finish of zinc, not a "mirror" like chrome but still a 
> very
> nice finish. It took a bit to get the process dialed in but I was able to 
> get
> some pretty fair results today. 

Like you, I really like the zinc look.  Chrome parts underhood just shout 
"BLING" to me.  A fresh zinc plate looks fresh and functional.

The technique I use is I plate for about a minute then buff on a wire 
wheel.  Then repeat 2 or 3 times.  It's a bit of busy work but it's a good way to 
pass a rainy afternoon.  And if I'm doing several pieces I can plate one 
while I am buffing the other.

Oh, and I rinse the parts off in plain water after they come out of the 
plating solution (acid).

Dave

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name of Programme national.pdf]

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Mon Apr  2 06:06:30 2012
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2012 08:06:30 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR2 progress Report
In-Reply-To: <CANhzkeO7NgecxToxL84R1=JHBSqmuk8MmVrLCwLU_=BuumdwiQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANhzkeO7NgecxToxL84R1=JHBSqmuk8MmVrLCwLU_=BuumdwiQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4F799646.8090008@adelphia.net>

Chris,

The best part of a restoration is when you start putting the car back 
together. Be sure to take photos along the way!

It is so much easier to mark your progress as day by day the project 
becomes a car. The satisfaction and smiles grow until the day the car is 
backed out of the garage and driven for the first time.

I have made that journey 3 times and those feelings never grow old.

Good luck and have some fun!

Bob

On 04/02/2012 07:33 AM, Chris Simo wrote:
> Hi all!
>
> Thought I'd give a brief update on how I'm doing with having the car ready
> for it's 170 mile madien voyage to the Triumph Club of the Carolinas
> Gathering at Shelton Vineyards in Dobson, NC on April 13th.
>
> The car is not yet painted.....  but the engine bay and trunk have been
> painted,  engine reinstalled, and reassembly has begun.
>
> I bought a carpet set from Chart One on Ebay and that has arrived and will
> go in after the shakedown drives.
>
> Two of my Triumph club friends came over yesterday (thanks Bob and Jim) and
> we block sanded the entire car and used icing to fix any minor dings and
> air holes.   It's now almost 100% blocked and ready for final primer this
> morning.
>
> Blocking was a huge job and my shoulders may never be the same. The body
> looks much better than I had planned, so I'm even more excited about the
> final paint on Wednesday.
>
> Then comes a ton of reassembly work - but it's gonna happen.
>
> Thanks for all the help from this list - materially and sage advice.   The
> front apron I snagged from Brian looks great on the car (much more work
> than I thought but worth it) - The TR4 transmission is sitting snugly in
> it's new home, The TR3 calipers are in place and waiting for use.
>
> I've become very good at installing and removing the apron -  now to figure
> out how to paint flexible rubber fender bead and install it without
> cracking it.   Unless there are better thoughts out there I think I'm going
> to cut a template from both fenders out of sheet metal and glue the bead to
> that and install it as an assembly on the car. Minor problem - I'll figure
> it out.

From spitlist at cox.net  Mon Apr  2 09:09:37 2012
From: spitlist at cox.net (spitlist at cox.net)
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2012 8:09:37 -0700
Subject: [TR] Is this thing on??
In-Reply-To: <f27b.3b37efa6.3caaeb39@cs.com>
Message-ID: <20120402110937.CNP0T.250287.imail@eastrmwml106>

And 63 times before that.  They seem to come with increaing regularity!

---- Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: 
> In a message dated 4/1/2012 2:35:52 PM Central Daylight Time, 
> spitlist at cox.net writes: 
> > Yeah, I know the significance.  It's my birthday!
> > 
> Again?!!!  You had one last year!
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Mon Apr  2 10:05:55 2012
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2012 09:05:55 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR2 progress Report
In-Reply-To: <CANhzkeO7NgecxToxL84R1=JHBSqmuk8MmVrLCwLU_=BuumdwiQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANhzkeO7NgecxToxL84R1=JHBSqmuk8MmVrLCwLU_=BuumdwiQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4F79CE63.7090909@gmail.com>

On 4/2/12 4:33 AM, Chris Simo wrote:
> The car is not yet painted.....  but the engine bay and trunk have been
> painted,  engine reinstalled, and reassembly has begun.
Always a good idea. When I got the primer on my 3 I sent it out to a 
paint shop. They put final colour on the underside of the bonnet, boot 
lid, inside of the doors, front apron, gearbox tunnel,  inside of all 
four wings and mounting surfaces while they were all detached from the 
body shell.  And I had them apply final colour to the underside of the 
body, engine bay, cockpit area going back into the boot area and the 
spare tyre area while all the parts were off and everything was as 
exposed as it could get.

When everything came back home I installed the engine, gearbox 
propshaft, steering box & shafts, radiator & fuel tank.  Enough to fire 
up the engine and take the car around the block.  Then I installed the 
doors, loosely bolted the wings and front apron on and towed it back to 
the paint shop where they sprayed the outside of the car from a single 
paint mix, including the outside of the bonnet, boot lid, hood sticks 
and spare tyre compartment cover.  They also repaired a couple scratches 
from installing the engine.

It was my way of assuring that all the surfaces that you could otherwise 
never get to were properly protected by paint and that all the exterior 
panels were exactly the same colour.  I didn't worry about colour over 
spray to the frame since I undercoated the underside of the body and 
inside of the wings afterwords. My TR was built to be driven and not as 
a show car so I wanted to protect it as much as possible.  Besides it 
had real old undercoating on it when I bought it back in '86. I think it 
was either factory or dealer applied when new.
> Then comes a ton of reassembly work - but it's gonna happen.
There came a point after final paint where I got intimidated by all the 
assembly work and wondered if I was doing it right or if parts would 
just fall off on the road when I was finished.  It was my first (and 
hopefully last) restoration project and I was into a lot of stuff that 
I'd never done before and only had the manual and illustrations in the 
TR parts book to go by.  It intimidated me enough that I stopped work on 
it for a while and contemplated selling it as a 3/4 completed project 
without warranty that the parts were in the right place.

Finally a combination of guilt and my innate tenacity kicked in and I 
went out to work on the project again. I made myself a promise.  One 
part a day, seven parts a week as absolute minimum.  Measured at sunset 
Sunday.  Some weeks I went well over the 7 parts. A nut & bolt wee 
considered one part.  Some weeks I ran out there on Sunday afternoon and 
put on 7 parts just before sunset.  But I never missed a seven part 
count each week. And over time I got it done enough to get it registered 
and it was almost a daily driver.  I just could not admit that I could 
fail at a project I took on even though I believe I was in WAY over my 
head.  And only one part fell off.  A headlight rim fell off and was 
instantly run over.

It took a few months of driving for me to trust the suspension and drive 
train work that I had done.  I was more surprised than anyone I know 
that the dumb thing actually worked.  I only had a single mechanical 
drive train problem and that was with the font bearings. The factory 
workshop manual covers the TR2 and early TR3.  I set the bearings per 
the manual which was for front drum brakes. Well you set it differently 
for a disc brake TR.  I discovered that on a short drive soon after I 
got the car registered.

But once I reluctantly came to believe that a wheel wasn't going to fall 
off or the steering wheel come off in my hands the TR and I became the 
terror of the winding mountain roads.

Keep at your project.  You'll get there as long as you keep at it.

Teriann

From mmarr at notwires.com  Mon Apr  2 10:08:19 2012
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2012 11:08:19 -0500
Subject: [TR] License Plate Brackets for TR3s?
In-Reply-To: <CAPK7CFDNm533iVhzyd5Fwq+EvkenvgoWeuCsSLADR5tp75F0Dw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPK7CFDNm533iVhzyd5Fwq+EvkenvgoWeuCsSLADR5tp75F0Dw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6D44CD4A866647239ADB672FFEDAA404@PhiSchLSpare101>

Don:

Its hard to tell without knowing its dimensions, but this could be a bracket 
for an English plate.  They are somewhat longer than the US plate. 
Furthermore, it may be an aftermarket bracket, in that the 3B was a US-Spec 
only car, I believe.  Johnmac might be able to confirm.

Mike

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Don Hiscock" <don.hiscock at gmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 31, 2012 12:16 AM
To: "Triumphs" <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] License Plate Brackets for TR3s?

> My TR3B (TSF202L) had an odd bracket mounted to the spare tire cover when 
> I
> got it in 1981.  A piece of stamped steel shaped sort of like a channel
> with a flattened section in the middle.  The two bolts holding it to the
> panel are closer spaced than license plate holes, and it has two slotted
> holes spaced farther apart that do match up to the plate.
>
> Here's an image:
> http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-RbBVvNr/0/XL/i-RbBVvNr-XL.jpg
>
> I haven't seen another one quite like this.  There's probably a reason for
> that -- it really doesn't work that well.  Awkward to mount plates onto 
> it.
> As TSF202L comes back on the road over the next month I'm considering
> options for mounting the plate to the rear.  One of the best suggestions 
> so
> far (thanks, Tom) is to drill four holes in the panel, insert rubber
> grommets, and bolt the plate directly.
>
> Any other good ideas?  Anyone else see that goofy bracket before?
>
> Don
> Saint Louis
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mmarr at notwires.com 

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Mon Apr  2 10:23:06 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2012 09:23:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Is this thing on??
In-Reply-To: <292A9CA25BDA486CB7C0EFE52A044351@Toms>
References: <20120316031737.5C9052E068@bradakis.com>
	<AE0952D0F8734973B7CE1FD2CF56E906@bboffice>
	<4F781008.1010903@bradakis.com>
	<001401cd103f$7a4e0550$6eea0ff0$@charter.net>
	<4F78B445.1050808@bradakis.com>
	<292A9CA25BDA486CB7C0EFE52A044351@Toms>
Message-ID: <1333383786.4237.YahooMailNeo@web120205.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

how was race day?
how is the new motor?

From: Tom Note <tom628 at verizon.net>
To: Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com>; triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent:
Sunday, April 1, 2012 9:32 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Is this thing on??

Mark-  you
just scared me into another (small) donation !
Thanks for all you do.
Tom
----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark J Bradakis" <mark at bradakis.com>
To:
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 01, 2012 4:02 PM
Subject: Re:
[TR] Is this thing on??


> Alex & Janet Thomson wrote:
>> Mark - Do you
wonder how many blank, hollow stares you created this morning,
>> 
> 
> That
was the plan ;-)
> 
> mjb.
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tom628 at verizon.net 

**
triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Mon Apr  2 11:10:17 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2012 10:10:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Is this thing on??
In-Reply-To: <1333383786.4237.YahooMailNeo@web120205.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <20120316031737.5C9052E068@bradakis.com>
	<AE0952D0F8734973B7CE1FD2CF56E906@bboffice>
	<4F781008.1010903@bradakis.com>
	<001401cd103f$7a4e0550$6eea0ff0$@charter.net>
	<4F78B445.1050808@bradakis.com>
	<292A9CA25BDA486CB7C0EFE52A044351@Toms>
	<1333383786.4237.YahooMailNeo@web120205.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1333386617.41224.YahooMailNeo@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

oops
wrong mail address
please ignore
Frank

From: Frank Fisher
<yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>
To: Tom Note <tom628 at verizon.net>; Mark J Bradakis
<mark at bradakis.com>; "triumphs at autox.team.net" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, April 2, 2012 9:23 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Is this thing on??

how
was race day?
how is the new motor?

From: Tom Note <tom628 at verizon.net>
To:
Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com>; triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent:
Sunday,
April 1, 2012 9:32 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Is this thing on??

Mark-  you
just
scared me into another (small) donation !
Thanks for all you do.
Tom
-----
Original Message ----- From: "Mark J Bradakis" <mark at bradakis.com>
To:
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 01, 2012 4:02 PM
Subject: Re:
[TR] Is this thing on??


> Alex & Janet Thomson wrote:
>> Mark - Do you
wonder how many blank, hollow stares you created this morning,
>> 
> 
> That
was the plan ;-)
> 
> mjb.
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tom628 at verizon.net 

**
triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com

**
triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com

From aljlthomson at charter.net  Tue Apr  3 05:21:52 2012
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson)
Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2012 07:21:52 -0400
Subject: [TR] Re-send
Message-ID: <000e01cd118b$f87f21a0$e97d64e0$@charter.net>

CTR Members and Listers - Here is an interesting link that CTR member Stan
Malcolm tried to send earlier. If you want to see some TR-3 pictures, go to
http://www.flickriver.com/search/triumph+tr3a/ . You can scroll through
nearly 1200 TR-3 pictures. 

 

Also, there is some basic information about the Flickriver service at
http://www.flickriver.com/about/ .  I'm sure that some of you are very
familiar with this and Flickr already.

 

Alex Thomson - Connecticut Triumph Register

From aljlthomson at charter.net  Tue Apr  3 05:53:15 2012
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson)
Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2012 07:53:15 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 Pictures
Message-ID: <002101cd1190$5ac64b00$1052e100$@charter.net>

CTR Members and Listers - Here is an interesting link that CTR member Stan
Malcolm tried to send earlier. If you want to see some TR-3 pictures, go to
<http://www.flickriver.com/search/triumph+tr3a/>
http://www.flickriver.com/search/triumph+tr3a/ . You can scroll through
nearly 1200 TR-3 pictures.  (Yes, there are a few shots that are mislabeled)

Also, there is some basic information about the Flickriver service at
<http://www.flickriver.com/about/> http://www.flickriver.com/about/ .  I'm
sure that some of you are very familiar with this and Flickr already. 

Alex Thomson - Connecticut Triumph Register

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Tue Apr  3 11:37:26 2012
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Tue, 03 Apr 2012 12:37:26 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Pictures
Message-ID: <15190206.330368.1333474646184.JavaMail.root@vznit170116>

I changed the search to tr3 and the number jumped to over 3600...    The only improvement would be to be able to view thumbnails -- a page at a time.
Thanks Alex... 
C
 


On 04/03/12, Alex & Janet Thomson wrote:

CTR Members and Listers - Here is an interesting link that CTR member Stan
Malcolm tried to send earlier. If you want to see some TR-3 pictures, go to
<http://www.flickriver.com/search/triumph+tr3a/>
http://www.flickriver.com/search/triumph+tr3a/ . You can scroll through
nearly 1200 TR-3 pictures. (Yes, there are a few shots that are mislabeled)

Also, there is some basic information about the Flickriver service at
<http://www.flickriver.com/about/> http://www.flickriver.com/about/ . I'm
sure that some of you are very familiar with this and Flickr already. 

Alex Thomson - Connecticut Triumph Register

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net

From agraham at execulink.com  Tue Apr  3 13:53:35 2012
From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham)
Date: Tue, 03 Apr 2012 15:53:35 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 spare tire compartment seal.
Message-ID: <4F7B553F.2020506@execulink.com>

Hello List:
Trying to figure out the seal orientation on the spare tire compartment 
lid. I did check the archives (thanks Mark!) and sorry to say I am still 
confused after reading the few messages on this topic.
I think I have it figured, but before I slather everything up with 
weatherstrip sea, just wanted to verify the seal orientation.
I take it that the seal 'extension', the short flap that extends out 
from the seal body, is oriented towards the spare tire opening, slightly 
covering the sharp edge around the opening. It does not orient towards 
the body.
On my '2 this seal was completely obliterated, so no reference.
Thanks for any help with this.
Angelo Graham

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Tue Apr  3 14:47:00 2012
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2012 13:47:00 -0700
Subject: [TR] Subject: TR3 Castor Angle?
In-Reply-To: <13159F552E204CEA9322B8EBB2711BEC@bboffice>
References: <3d7d9.5fa47d00.3ca95524@aol.com>
	<13159F552E204CEA9322B8EBB2711BEC@bboffice>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bHX-toAGBupgdZiiAjf=r4qfDSqzjMTRWnVdAXOq4F7Kw@mail.gmail.com>

On Sun, Apr 1, 2012 at 6:42 AM, <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:

> ...it [failure to re-center] just seemed more noticeable since the
> front-end alignment.
>


In that case I would check the toe-in.  The book spec is:  0 - 1/8"  but I
set it at the 1/8".  I think a bit of toe-in helps it want to go straight.

Geo

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Tue Apr  3 16:59:05 2012
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2012 17:59:05 -0500
Subject: [TR] Is this thing on??
In-Reply-To: <f003.48286cc0.3caae936@cs.com>
References: <f003.48286cc0.3caae936@cs.com>
Message-ID: <SNT123-W39CEAC1D6D6C719E1570AFE14D0@phx.gbl>

> May as well, I sold my Triumphs and bought a Boxter. You traded your
successes for a dog?

Rich White Central, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF###L
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Apr  4 05:26:18 2012
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2012 07:26:18 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 spare tire compartment seal.
Message-ID: <5bdd1.214c1d02.3cad89da@cs.com>

In a message dated 4/3/2012 3:47:34 PM Central Daylight Time, 
agraham at execulink.com writes: 
> Trying to figure out the seal orientation on the spare tire compartment 
> lid. I did check the archives (thanks Mark!) and sorry to say I am still 
> confused after reading the few messages on this topic.
> I think I have it figured, but before I slather everything up with 
> weatherstrip sea, just wanted to verify the seal orientation.
> I take it that the seal 'extension', the short flap that extends out 
> from the seal body, is oriented towards the spare tire opening, slightly 
> covering the sharp edge around the opening. It does not orient towards 
> the body.
> 

Good question.  we were looking at this the other day and came to the 
opposite conclusion - that the lip extended out to separate the cover from the 
body.

I'm sure TRA has an opinion on this.

Dave

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Apr  4 05:31:52 2012
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2012 07:31:52 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Is this thing on??
Message-ID: <5bf53.6af881ac.3cad8b28@cs.com>

In a message dated 4/3/2012 5:59:17 PM Central Daylight Time, 
rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com writes: 
> >May as well, I sold my Triumphs and bought a Boxter.
>  
> You traded your successes for a dog?
> 
> 

Yes, but as of April SECOND, the Triumph was back.

;-)

Dave

From terryrs at comcast.net  Wed Apr  4 09:39:37 2012
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2012 15:39:37 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Oil Pan Gasket
In-Reply-To: <5bf53.6af881ac.3cad8b28@cs.com>
Message-ID: <2117783672.412876.1333553977376.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

I had a cork sump pan gasket for my TR3, and found that I was able to finally stop the leaks.

Now, doing the engine rebuild, neither Moss or TRF carries one.

Anybody know of a source?

Thanks!


Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshirew

From wbeech at flash.net  Wed Apr  4 11:10:37 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2012 12:10:37 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 Oil Pan Gasket
In-Reply-To: <2117783672.412876.1333553977376.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <2117783672.412876.1333553977376.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <C5F5FABE-9D04-408C-951C-654D96AE5881@flash.net>

No gasket, just RTV, no leaks.

Try Morgan Spares, VickiBrit or Moss UK.

Sent from mobile Bill

On Apr 4, 2012, at 10:39 AM, terryrs at comcast.net wrote:

> I had a cork sump pan gasket for my TR3, and found that I was able to
finally stop the leaks.
>
> Now, doing the engine rebuild, neither Moss or TRF carries one.
>
> Anybody know of a source?
>
> Thanks!
>
>
> Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
> New Hampshirew
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.netMoss & AH
Spares' keys do not have the logo on them.   Any other possible sources?

From agraham at execulink.com  Wed Apr  4 11:18:58 2012
From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham)
Date: Wed, 04 Apr 2012 13:18:58 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 exhaust pipe.
Message-ID: <4F7C8282.3040708@execulink.com>

Hello List:
Just finished up re-installing an exhaust system in my '2 project. I 
tried to duplicate the original (?) system I found on the car. Didn't 
have a resonator. I used a stainless tube muffler and had the rear pipe 
bent up to try to duplicate the rusted rear pipe. I thought the 
replacement muffler a bit small, but it is not straight-thru; doesn't 
sound too bad, with only a rasp when backing off.
My question concerns the rear pipe. My new pipe hangs down below the 
rear frame rail by a couple of inches. Have tried twisting the pipe to 
re-orient it, but can't reduce the clearance significantly. I had the 
original pipe duplicated, but not sure about how the system should look 
with respect to the rear frame rail. What about other 'original' cars? 
Does the rear pipe hang below the rear frame rail? Have to clear the 
rear of the car, so I'm assuming some bends are required.
Thanks for any help with this.
Angelo Graham

From tr3abobm77 at frontier.com  Wed Apr  4 11:47:47 2012
From: tr3abobm77 at frontier.com (tr3abobm77 at frontier.com)
Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2012 17:47:47 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Oil Pan Gasket
In-Reply-To: <2117783672.412876.1333553977376.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1945622149.1440937.1333561667695.JavaMail.root@cl02-host04.dlls.pa.frontiernet.net>

Terry,

Last time I changed mine I went to Advance Auto and bought a roll of rubberized cork gasket material and made my own.
Then I siliconed it to just the pan and laid it flange down on a flat surface and put some weight on it for a
day or 2. I lightly greased the top surface and installed it. I have had it off and on a few times since and
it is still a good leak-proof fit aslong as you don't crank down on the bolts too much.

Bob Maassel
59TR3A
Fort Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: terryrs at comcast.net
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, April 4, 2012 11:39:37 AM
Subject: [TR] TR3 Oil Pan Gasket

I had a cork sump pan gasket for my TR3, and found that I was able to finally stop the leaks.

Now, doing the engine rebuild, neither Moss or TRF carries one.

Anybody know of a source?

Thanks!


Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshirew

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3abobm77 at frontier.com

From davewillner at pa.net  Wed Apr  4 12:22:55 2012
From: davewillner at pa.net (davewillner)
Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2012 14:22:55 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A horn bracket finish originality question
Message-ID: <3B83ED159B9D41DE934ED68071CD3FC7@valued9cfc0b6f>

I know I'm getting way picky, but from an originality perspective, does anyone
know the proper finish for the two horn brackets? Not sure if the bracket was
attached to the horn before paint, or after paint? I've seen both natural and
black...Thanks

Dave Willner
Stroudsburg PA
59 TR3A
70 MGB
70 BSA 441 VS

From mlang99 at comcast.net  Wed Apr  4 13:02:57 2012
From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang)
Date: Wed, 04 Apr 2012 12:02:57 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Oil Pan Gasket
In-Reply-To: <2117783672.412876.1333553977376.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <2117783672.412876.1333553977376.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <fef85338-2a09-4c6d-a7a5-509fef49d7bb@email.android.com>

After a few leaky fiber gaskets, I cut my own out of cork material from AutoZone. Best gasket so far!

Mike

TS11544L

terryrs at comcast.net wrote:

>I had a cork sump pan gasket for my TR3, and found that I was able to
>finally stop the leaks.
>
>Now, doing the engine rebuild, neither Moss or TRF carries one.
>
>Anybody know of a source?
>
>Thanks!
>
>
>Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
>New Hampshirew

From wbeech at flash.net  Wed Apr  4 13:33:01 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2012 14:33:01 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 exhaust pipe.
In-Reply-To: <4F7C8282.3040708@execulink.com>
References: <4F7C8282.3040708@execulink.com>
Message-ID: <44DEE8AF029E44A4B89E1428DBDE7578@bboffice>

I bought that rear pipe from Moss and it does hang down, it has to to clear
the rear valance of the body.  The correct hanger bracket keeps everything
aligned just right.
Bill 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Angelo Graham
Sent: Wednesday, April 04, 2012 12:19 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 exhaust pipe.

Hello List:
Just finished up re-installing an exhaust system in my '2 project. I tried
to duplicate the original (?) system I found on the car. Didn't have a
resonator. I used a stainless tube muffler and had the rear pipe bent up to
try to duplicate the rusted rear pipe. I thought the replacement muffler a
bit small, but it is not straight-thru; doesn't sound too bad, with only a
rasp when backing off.
My question concerns the rear pipe. My new pipe hangs down below the rear
frame rail by a couple of inches. Have tried twisting the pipe to re-orient
it, but can't reduce the clearance significantly. I had the original pipe
duplicated, but not sure about how the system should look with respect to
the rear frame rail. What about other 'original' cars? 
Does the rear pipe hang below the rear frame rail? Have to clear the rear of
the car, so I'm assuming some bends are required.
Thanks for any help with this.
Angelo Graham

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Wed Apr  4 19:33:01 2012
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2012 18:33:01 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] wiring harness
Message-ID: <1333589581.43320.YahooMailNeo@web65512.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

List,
I'm in the middle of installing tr-3 wiring harness.  Forgive me if this
has been covered recently.

I'm at the big wad of wires that protrude through
the passenger side firewall and hook up to the control box and fuse box.  When
I match up the wires i have one green and one black wire left over.  The old
harness has 3 green coming out of the harness but my new one has 4 green
coming out.  (I'm not talking about the wires that go on up to the front of
the engine, just the ones that are short and seem to attach to control box and
fuse box area)

I also have 3 black coming out of both harnesses but find a
use for only two on the new harness. 

Just wondering if anyone has been
working in this area recently and has a good memory!

gary n.

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Apr  4 22:11:13 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2012 21:11:13 -0700
Subject: [TR] wiring harness
In-Reply-To: <1333589581.43320.YahooMailNeo@web65512.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <1333589581.43320.YahooMailNeo@web65512.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <03c801cd12e2$23f6d420$0601a8c0@randall>

The extra green goes to the fuse block; this is a difference between earlier
and later harnesses.  The earlier harnesses had that extra green wire (which
provides fused, switched power to the brake light switch) running out to the
wiper motor instead of the fuse block.

If memory serves, one black wire goes to a mounting screw for the solenoid;
the other two go to the E terminal on the control box.  Anyway that should
work, even if I've remembered it wrong.

-- Randall  

From gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com  Thu Apr  5 00:19:20 2012
From: gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com (Greg Solow)
Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2012 23:19:20 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR-3 steering self centering
References: <mailman.17.1333562403.4406.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <B6E8A0B2FD02491CA6045174BEA3552C@your89d26e0447>

A large part of the self centering action of a TR-3 comes from the torsion 
in the drag link pins. These are the bonded rubber sleeves and studs that 
press into the holes in the drag link and attach to the steering box pitman 
arm and the idler arm. They consist of a center pin and a steel sleeve. The 
pin is in the center of the sleeve and is attached to it by bonded rubber. 
When the steering linkage is assembled, everything is tightened down with 
the steering in the straight ahead position. As the steering is turned away 
from straight ahead to either side,  the rubber that is bonded to the sleeve 
on the outside and the pin on the inside is supposed to "twist". The tension 
generated in the rubber wants to "untwist" itself and thereby wants to bring 
the steering back to straight ahead where there is no longer any "twisting" 
tension in the rubber.  Of course if the rubber in the space between the pin 
and the sleeve comes "unbonded" from either, all of this action is lost! 
The pins do not last to long in there original "bonded"  condition. They 
have a tendency to fail somewhat quickly.  Some of the reproduced stuff is 
better than other.
                                                                             
                Greg Solow
                                                                             
                The Engine Room
                                                                             
                Santa Cruz, Ca. 

From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk  Thu Apr  5 02:56:25 2012
From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2012 09:56:25 +0100 (BST)
Subject: [TR] TR3A horn bracket finish originality question
In-Reply-To: <3B83ED159B9D41DE934ED68071CD3FC7@valued9cfc0b6f>
References: <3B83ED159B9D41DE934ED68071CD3FC7@valued9cfc0b6f>
Message-ID: <1333616185.35354.YahooMailNeo@web29401.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

Dave
Memory tells me the Lucas windtone horn (ear lobe type trumpet and domed
top) that was production fit on TR sidescreeners, Vanguard, Ensign, Leyland 15
and 20, had an integral black bracket as supplied from Lucas. The black finish
was slightly matt - except on international motor show cars, so if you're
mixing paint I'd use full gloss with about 10% matt black. 

Jonmac
http://standard-triumph-books.co.uk


>________________________________
>
From: davewillner <davewillner at pa.net>
>To: triumphs at autox.team.net 
>Sent:
Wednesday, 4 April 2012, 19:22
>Subject: [TR] TR3A horn bracket finish
originality question
>  
>I know I'm getting way picky, but from an
originality perspective, does anyone
>know the proper finish for the two horn
brackets? Not sure if the bracket was
>attached to the horn before paint, or
after paint? I've seen both natural and
>black...Thanks
>
>Dave Willner
>Stroudsburg PA
>59 TR3A
>70 MGB
>70 BSA 441 VS
>
>** triumphs at autox.team.net
**
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk

From wbeech at flash.net  Thu Apr  5 08:12:51 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2012 09:12:51 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR-3 steering self centering
In-Reply-To: <B6E8A0B2FD02491CA6045174BEA3552C@your89d26e0447>
References: <mailman.17.1333562403.4406.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<B6E8A0B2FD02491CA6045174BEA3552C@your89d26e0447>
Message-ID: <0C3FFE79193B48D8AA3A159B0AE06CA4@bboffice>

I have installed the delrin pins (silentblocks) so this is probably
contributing somewhat to the issue.  Many say it is the zero castor angle,
as does my front-end guy.

Many thanks to all who contributed on this subject.  Short of substituting
TR4 parts I guess this is the way it will be.

Bill 

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS30766L "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Hello, my name is Bill and I own an old British car.  Now...What are the
next 11 steps?"


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Greg Solow
Sent: Thursday, April 05, 2012 1:19 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR-3 steering self centering

A large part of the self centering action of a TR-3 comes from the torsion
in the drag link pins. These are the bonded rubber sleeves and studs that
press into the holes in the drag link and attach to the steering box pitman
arm and the idler arm. They consist of a center pin and a steel sleeve. The
pin is in the center of the sleeve and is attached to it by bonded rubber. 
When the steering linkage is assembled, everything is tightened down with
the steering in the straight ahead position. As the steering is turned away
from straight ahead to either side,  the rubber that is bonded to the sleeve
on the outside and the pin on the inside is supposed to "twist". The tension
generated in the rubber wants to "untwist" itself and thereby wants to bring
the steering back to straight ahead where there is no longer any "twisting" 
tension in the rubber.  Of course if the rubber in the space between the pin
and the sleeve comes "unbonded" from either, all of this action is lost! 
The pins do not last to long in there original "bonded"  condition. They
have a tendency to fail somewhat quickly.  Some of the reproduced stuff is
better than other.
 

                Greg Solow
 

                The Engine Room
 

                Santa Cruz, Ca. 

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Apr  5 11:33:16 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2012 10:33:16 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR-3 steering self centering
In-Reply-To: <0C3FFE79193B48D8AA3A159B0AE06CA4@bboffice>
References: <mailman.17.1333562403.4406.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<B6E8A0B2FD02491CA6045174BEA3552C@your89d26e0447>
	<0C3FFE79193B48D8AA3A159B0AE06CA4@bboffice>
Message-ID: <01d101cd1352$2fed9dc0$8fc8d940$@rr.com>

> Many thanks to all who contributed on this subject.  Short of
> substituting
> TR4 parts I guess this is the way it will be.

Well, I still think you have something wrong.  I also have the free-turning
substitutes for the silentblocs (although mine are all metal rather than
Delrin), and I have no trouble with centering.  The seven degrees of KPI
supplies enough centering force, if everything else is right.

Did you have your KPI measured as I suggested?

-- Randall

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Thu Apr  5 15:37:10 2012
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2012 14:37:10 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] wiring harness thanks
Message-ID: <1333661830.45595.YahooMailNeo@web65506.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

Thanks for the input on the wiring harness.  I do remember reading before that
earlier and later harnesses were slightly different.  I've also just noticed
that my taillights/license  wiring colors are differant than the book I have. 
Soo I'll probably be asking more about that later.
thanks again all!  This
list is a life saver!

gary n.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Apr  5 16:59:31 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2012 15:59:31 -0700
Subject: [TR] wiring harness thanks
In-Reply-To: <1333661830.45595.YahooMailNeo@web65506.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <1333661830.45595.YahooMailNeo@web65506.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <023201cd137f$c3a558a0$4af009e0$@rr.com>

> I've also just
> noticed
> that my taillights/license  wiring colors are different than the book I
> have.

Almost any book is likely to be wrong for almost any TR2-3.  Either use the
Dan Masters diagrams, or find the version of Practical Hints that matches
your car.

Even then, some of the sub-harnesses will probably not match.

-- Randall 

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Thu Apr  5 19:36:04 2012
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2012 18:36:04 -0700
Subject: [TR] wiring harness
In-Reply-To: <1333589581.43320.YahooMailNeo@web65512.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <1333589581.43320.YahooMailNeo@web65512.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bH7KUMxoE4YEZPSoC4-4AAOZSEPzfOg=JFY9f26Fqj6FA@mail.gmail.com>

Here's a coouple of pics if they help:

An original, unmolested (but very dirty)
example<http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/TR3A-Control-Box.JPG>

What I did which I hope & believe is
correct<http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/TR3ControlBox%20after.JPG>
On Wed, Apr 4, 2012 at 6:33 PM, Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg at yahoo.com> wrote:

> List,
> I'm in the middle of installing tr-3 wiring harness.

From pete_groh at yahoo.com  Fri Apr  6 07:26:50 2012
From: pete_groh at yahoo.com (Pete Groh)
Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2012 06:26:50 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Lead for 72" Triumph Spitfire for sale in MD
Message-ID: <1333718810.24128.YahooMailNeo@web111609.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

 This information was sent to my local MasonDixon car club.

I have a 72
spitfire for sale. $1000 or obo all parts for car started ground up
restoration. 
Frame n most of body done. Teabma at hotmail.com or 443-987-3174.
NFI


Pete Groh (KeyGuy)
Ellicott City MD

From tedtsimx at bright.net  Fri Apr  6 10:03:10 2012
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Fri, 06 Apr 2012 12:03:10 -0400
Subject: [TR] Parts, etc.  at Mitty Vintage Race
Message-ID: <4F7F13BE.6070008@bright.net>

Good morning List. Some items of interest. Mike Cook, author of several 
TR books, longtime Triumph, British Leyland and Jaguar PR person and all 
around very knowledgeable good guy will be joining us. Mike will be 
wandering around shooting pictures, renewing old acquaintances and 
meeting new friends.  Mike is a very valuable resource to the Triumph 
community.  He was there when it started, including the US Competition 
Department.  Mike will be available at our booth several times during 
the week-end. Stop by and see Mike. Find out what it was really like "in 
the day" from one who was there from the start.  Bring your questions.

Also joining us, all the way from the UK, are John & Susanne Clancy.  
John is a videographer who has produced several Triumph DVD's. These 
will be available at our booth. The series of Triumph DVDs came about as 
a result of John Clancy's long term project to make a documentary of the 
history of the TR7 and TR8 series of cars.  When initially released in 
2007 it proved to be so popular the initial batch of pressed discs sold 
out within six months.  As a result further Triumph productions were 
undertaken -- first of all the Triumph Stag, then the Spitfire and GT6, 
the traditional TRs, the pre-war cars and others.  Currently a complete 
Triumph history is being compiled focusing on the saloon (sedan) models 
issued by the company plus 'California Air' featuring Kas Kastner and 
the US competitions department - this release is why John and his wife 
Susanne will be attending the Mitty at the end of the month to film some 
of the cars to help illustrate the story of why Triumph was so 
successful in America.
John has interviewed many former Standard-Triumph engineering and 
styling personnel and you will find many of these appear within each of 
the DVDs.  No one else currently making classic car documentaries goes 
into so much detail which makes these Triumph collectibles fairly unique 
and as time goes on we expect them to become quite historic in their own 
right.
Further details and previews of each title can be seen at 
www.triumphdvd.co.uk

We will be at the Mitty with our vendor trailer with both parts and 
regalia. We will have our gear reductions starters, steel braid brake 
hoses, suspension parts, rebuilt calipers,  etc.  If anyone needs "heavy 
items" - heads, gearboxes, engines, etc, we can bring these along - free 
freight is good!  Please let me know any requests as soon as possible so 
we can be sure to get it loaded. Our vendor trailer - white, flip open 
sides, along with an EZ-Up tent will be up on the hill in vendor area.

FOT and Kastner Cup shirts can be picked up at the trailer. Please try 
and pick up your shirts by Saturday afternoon.  Not sure what time we 
will be packing on Sunday to leave.  At the event you can reach me on my 
mobile - 419/230-9008. Mobile does not work in our building so please 
use any of the numbers listed on the signature line of this email for 
orders.

Thanks for your time and support. Ted

-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US&  Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022

From fishplate at charter.net  Sat Apr  7 10:46:44 2012
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff)
Date: Sat, 07 Apr 2012 12:46:44 -0400
Subject: [TR] Flywheel Bolts
Message-ID: <4F806F74.2080401@charter.net>

So, as long as the flywheel's laying on the floor (as a result of 
changing the rear transmission seal), why not replace the flywheel bolts 
with spiffy racing bolts.

Conventional wisdom says use ARP bolts.  I can get a set of four from a 
Triumph specialist, or I can get a set of 6 apparently identical bolts 
from a speed shop not far away, for about half the price.  These claim 
to fit a Chevy or Ford application.

100-2801 - 7/16" by 1"  Does that sound right?  Any reason these 
wouldn't fit as well as the ones that cost twice as much?

TIA,
Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

From mark at bradakis.com  Sat Apr  7 12:20:35 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sat, 07 Apr 2012 12:20:35 -0600
Subject: [TR] Flywheel Bolts
In-Reply-To: <4F806F74.2080401@charter.net>
References: <4F806F74.2080401@charter.net>
Message-ID: <4F808573.1070300@bradakis.com>

Do these bolts have the same shoulder?

mjb.

From tony at tonydrews.com  Sat Apr  7 12:26:34 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sat, 07 Apr 2012 13:26:34 -0500
Subject: [TR] Flywheel Bolts
In-Reply-To: <4F806F74.2080401@charter.net>
References: <4F806F74.2080401@charter.net>
Message-ID: <mailman.33.1333823185.3014.triumphs@autox.team.net>

Those are what I use in my TR-4 race car, but in that application 
they are not replacement for stock bolts - the stock bolts are 
smaller - 3/8" I think.  I've got the crank and flywheel modified to 
use the larger bolts.

I believe that the 3/8" ARP bolts are P/N 206-2802.

You don't mention which TR these are going in.  If it's a model that 
uses 7/16" x 1 bolts, those should do the trick.

If you use them, before you button everything up, make sure that they 
aren't too long and protrude out the back of the crankshaft.  It's 
frustrating to put it all back together and find out that the engine 
won't turn over because the bolts have locked the crank into 
place.  A little quality time on the bench grinder taking a little 
off the length is the fix.

Tony Drews

At 11:46 AM 4/7/2012, Jeff wrote:
>So, as long as the flywheel's laying on the floor (as a result of 
>changing the rear transmission seal), why not replace the flywheel 
>bolts with spiffy racing bolts.
>
>Conventional wisdom says use ARP bolts.  I can get a set of four 
>from a Triumph specialist, or I can get a set of 6 apparently 
>identical bolts from a speed shop not far away, for about half the 
>price.  These claim to fit a Chevy or Ford application.
>
>100-2801 - 7/16" by 1"  Does that sound right?  Any reason these 
>wouldn't fit as well as the ones that cost twice as much?
>
>TIA,
>Jeff Scarbrough
>Corrosion Acres, Ga.

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Sat Apr  7 18:38:01 2012
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Sat, 07 Apr 2012 17:38:01 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 for sale (not mine)
In-Reply-To: <C5CB5B3A-78CC-450E-A4CB-FCDAC8AD83D1@sonic.net>
References: <C5CB5B3A-78CC-450E-A4CB-FCDAC8AD83D1@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <4F80DDE9.2010408@gmail.com>

I just received this email about a TR3 that has come up for sale.

If you are interested contact Frans directly at Frans Smith 
<frans1 at sonic.net>

Teriann

-------- Original Message --------
Subject: 	Triumph
Date: 	Sat, 7 Apr 2012 17:09:48 -0700
From: 	Frans Smith <frans1 at sonic.net>
To: 	TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman at razzolink.com>, "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" 
<tjwakeman at gmail.com>



Dear TeriAnn,
I have communicated off and on with you regarding my series 2 land
rover 109. I also am on the mendo list. Anyhow, I have a customer/
friend who liked to mess around with old british cars. He just had a
fairly major heart attack. In his garage is a nearly complete 1957 TR3
'small mouth'. He has a garage full of spare parts (literally) for it.
The entire drivetrain/brakes etc.  has been re-built. He has one extra
engine plus a still-in-the-box overdrive. The car is just about done
but he lost both feet and really cannot deal with it anymore so is
looking to offload it on someone.
Know anyone who may be interested? He won't let it go for free but I
think whoever gets it is going to get one hell of a deal.
He lives in the same town as me, Healdsburg CA about an hour north of
S.F. CA.
If you know anyone please let me know. He is not in any particular
hurry to sell but it does need to go.
thank you
frans

From dave at ranteer.com  Sat Apr  7 23:01:57 2012
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2012 00:01:57 -0500
Subject: [TR] mitty
Message-ID: <4E6836F89EE7468F88BA57F923C72891@ranteer.local>

anyone traveling to the mitty through the south (Louisiana, Mississippi, or
Alabama)?

looking to join a caravan

thanks!

dave northrup
dallas, tx

From dave at ranteer.com  Sat Apr  7 23:17:46 2012
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2012 00:17:46 -0500
Subject: [TR] manifold studs
Message-ID: <994D9F1204B248B397CD78A71B38C76E@ranteer.local>

what is the recommended torque settings for the nuts that attach to the
manifold studs for an early tr4?

thanks!

From dconnitt at fuse.net  Sun Apr  8 12:25:46 2012
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2012 14:25:46 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A PCV valve
Message-ID: <415AE00A772540158593840FDC4A08A2@DaveLaptop>

List,
Well, I am cleaning up the PCV valve that came on my TR4A IRS and am kind of
torn on installing it or maybe sourcing a modern type vavle. I remember
someone posting a comment about how much trouble they had getting the original
valve working correctly. Am I having a senior moment here or is there possibly
a better solution?
The valve was in suprisingly good condition on the inside after I bead blasted
everything. The rubber diaphram was intact but very stiff. The little coil
spring behind it was extremely weak but I have no idea what the original
tension was supposed to be.
What kind of luck has everbody had?
By the way I am loving this Caswell Zinc Plating kit. It is kind of slow as
each part needs about 20-30 minutes to plate but I am just about done with all
the carburetor and throttle linkage. Still need to get the carburetor bodies
back from Joe Curto to finish up the carbs but things are moving steadily
towards completion!
Met another TR4A owner in Germany through my website. It never ceases to amaze
me how people in this hobby are so enthusiastic about their cars..
Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A IRS
http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a

From darrellw360 at mac.com  Sun Apr  8 15:47:07 2012
From: darrellw360 at mac.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Sun, 08 Apr 2012 14:47:07 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4A PCV valve
In-Reply-To: <415AE00A772540158593840FDC4A08A2@DaveLaptop>
References: <415AE00A772540158593840FDC4A08A2@DaveLaptop>
Message-ID: <86D3D463-CF5A-4C02-A4A8-990440C60F0F@mac.com>

Hi Dave,

On Apr 8, 2012, at 11:25 AM, Dave Connitt wrote:

> Well, I am cleaning up the PCV valve that came on my TR4A IRS and am kind of
> torn on installing it or maybe sourcing a modern type vavle. I remember
> someone posting a comment about how much trouble they had getting the original
> valve working correctly. Am I having a senior moment here or is there possibly
> a better solution?

When I got my 4A, it had a "regular" valve plumbed in.  Seemed to work OK, but I believe those valves are really just one-way valves (and perhaps some restriction).  From looking at the valve on the 4A, it appears that one of its functions is to only let the crankcase push into the intake, and to restrict the intake from sucking (or sucking too much) from the crankcase.

I don't know if that is important (or even accurate), though.

-Darrell

From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Apr  8 16:47:41 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun,  8 Apr 2012 16:47:41 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [TR] Sometimes it works...
Message-ID: <20120408224741.0829B2E076@bradakis.com>

 and sometimes it doesn't.  It is a beautiful Easter here in Salt Lake
City, wonderful spring weather.  I had big plans to get lots done in the
yard and in the garage this weekend.  But no, I'm sitting here at the
keyboard, have been inside all weekend with a cold.  So my weekend plans
didn't work out.

But one plan has worked out, and for over 20 years.  Yep, in April of
1991 Team.Net became a registered domain, and the lists and FTP service
and web pages moved from various machines at the U of U where I worked
at the time to a dedicated machine.  One aspect of that is that keeping
it running takes money out of my pocket.  Not that much, though I keep
thinking on checking just what size bite of my power bill the Team.Net
hardware does take.

Speaking of hardware, you are no doubt aware that Team.Net is running
on a nice new, well, new to me, server that was purchased with user
contributions last spring.  And no doubt you've noticed the transition
has had some issues, like with the archives and the forums.  I am working
on smoothing out the remaining wrinkles to keep it all flowing smoothly.

What you can do to keep it running smoothly is make a contribution
to the cause.  Information regarding how to do so can be found at
http://www.team.net/donate.html

Some of you have donated recently, especially during the 'Find Mark a job'
thread on the Healey list.  In case you are wondering I no longer am a
parts delivery guy but wrenching on cars again at Bailey's Service here
in Utah.  Spending $500 - $600 or so a month on gas and oil is something
I won't miss about the old job!

If you feel like Team.Net offers you something worth supporting, I would
appreciate a contribution.  If you'd rather not, don't worry about it.

Thanks,

mjb.

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Apr  8 17:04:28 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2012 16:04:28 -0700
Subject: [TR] manifold studs
In-Reply-To: <994D9F1204B248B397CD78A71B38C76E@ranteer.local>
References: <994D9F1204B248B397CD78A71B38C76E@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <00d201cd15db$f33dff00$0601a8c0@randall>

> what is the recommended torque settings for the nuts that 
> attach to the
> manifold studs for an early tr4?

My book says 22-24 ft lb, which seems about right (tho I never bother using
a torque wrench).  More important, IMO, is to use new lock washers and check
the nuts for tightness occasionally.

On my TR3A, I also found that it helped to use a heavy flat washer on the
front & rear stud (the ones without the cast iron bridge pieces).

-- Randall  

From jwalker at mainet.com  Mon Apr  9 14:46:07 2012
From: jwalker at mainet.com (John Walker)
Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2012 16:46:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR-3 Rear Crankshaft Seal
Message-ID: <4F83124F020000EF0000CEA9@smtp.mainet.com>

List,

After taking TR-3B TS#68368 around the block for it's first movement under
it's own power in 30 years, I discovered that the rear main seal is leaking.
ISTR that there are a couple of options for replacing this seal with modern
technology. TRF's Viton seal doesn't require machining the crank, while Moss's
does. Are there any other options? Any experience with either version with
regard to ease of installation and effectiveness once installed?

TIA,
John Walker

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Mon Apr  9 15:02:10 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2012 14:02:10 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR-3 Rear Crankshaft Seal
In-Reply-To: <4F83124F020000EF0000CEA9@smtp.mainet.com>
References: <4F83124F020000EF0000CEA9@smtp.mainet.com>
Message-ID: <1334005330.62012.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

i used the Moss type where one is required to machine the crank.
i believe my careful installation method beyond the instructions lead to my rear seal not leaking.
i like mine
Frank Fisher

From: John Walker <jwalker at mainet.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Monday, April 9, 2012 1:46 PM
Subject: [TR] TR-3 Rear Crankshaft Seal

List,

After taking TR-3B TS#68368 around the block for it's first movement under
it's own power in 30 years, I discovered that the rear main seal is leaking.
ISTR that there are a couple of options for replacing this seal with modern
technology. TRF's Viton seal doesn't require machining the crank, while Moss's
does. Are there any other options? Any experience with either version with
regard to ease of installation and effectiveness once installed?

TIA,
John Walker

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Mon Apr  9 15:19:58 2012
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2012 17:19:58 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR-3 Rear Crankshaft Seal
In-Reply-To: <4F83124F020000EF0000CEA9@smtp.mainet.com>
References: <4F83124F020000EF0000CEA9@smtp.mainet.com>
Message-ID: <AE3E112254AF49D09AECBE38388C9001@DCH6RFC1>

Racetorations is working with a one-piece seal, but machining is required.  
I have used the Moss seal twice:  worked once, leaked once.

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Walker
Sent: Monday, April 09, 2012 4:46 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR-3 Rear Crankshaft Seal

List,

After taking TR-3B TS#68368 around the block for it's first movement under
it's own power in 30 years, I discovered that the rear main seal is leaking.
ISTR that there are a couple of options for replacing this seal with modern
technology. TRF's Viton seal doesn't require machining the crank, while
Moss's
does. Are there any other options? Any experience with either version with
regard to ease of installation and effectiveness once installed?

TIA,
John Walker

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Apr  9 15:24:53 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2012 14:24:53 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR-3 Rear Crankshaft Seal
In-Reply-To: <4F83124F020000EF0000CEA9@smtp.mainet.com>
References: <4F83124F020000EF0000CEA9@smtp.mainet.com>
Message-ID: <05db01cd1697$34e81470$9eb83d50$@rr.com>

> ISTR that there are a couple of options for replacing this seal with
> modern
> technology. TRF's Viton seal doesn't require machining the crank, while
> Moss's
> does. Are there any other options?

According to an article published in the local club newsletter many years
ago, there are (at least) two versions of the "grind the crank" conversion.

Also, while it's not exactly modern technology; supposedly the original seal
works quite well if you use a mandrel with the proper dimensions.  The
dimensions given in the manual are not correct.  I believe TRF sells
mandrels with the updated dimensions (last I heard, Moss did not).

Personally, I am going with the Viton seal.  This conversion was developed
by a well-known Triumph racer, running on race tracks where "marking its
spot" can get you disqualified (and barred).  He tried the other conversion
and found it wanting.

If you do go with one of the "grind the crank" conversions, be sure you get
the right dimensions for grinding the crank.  The instructions have been
revised multiple times, each time making the crank surface larger.  Also
check out "uncle jacks" web site for installation tips.

-- Randall 

From davidt at opentext.com  Mon Apr  9 18:12:10 2012
From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton)
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2012 00:12:10 +0000
Subject: [TR] TV - MG is Born - off topic
Message-ID: <BB85810C03ABE146834E31BD2120C86E0E380A31@otwlxg20.opentext.net>

Evening all,

I have just been watching a series An MG is Born,
http://www.an-mg-is-born.com/ while I am a certified TR guy, the series has
all the steps very similar to what we go through on our cars :-)  If you can
good bit of tellie to watch.

I think my new better half might end up watching this to see how much work is
in restoring :-)

Have fun
David Templeton
'59 TR3a
'74 Spitsix

From spook01 at comcast.net  Mon Apr  9 18:18:08 2012
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2012 19:18:08 -0500
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Early_TR4_lens_question?=
Message-ID: <mailman.35.1334017074.3014.triumphs@autox.team.net>

My TR4 needs a rear tail lamp lens and I see two different part numbers.  One is L669, the other L779.
>From the photo, they appear identical, but my car came with the L669.
Is this just a p/n change, or are the lens different?
Info will be appreciated!
R 

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----

To: "davewillner" <davewillner at pa.net>, "triumphs at autox.team.net" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR3A horn bracket finish originality question

From tony at tonydrews.com  Mon Apr  9 19:45:58 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2012 20:45:58 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR-3 Rear Crankshaft Seal
In-Reply-To: <05db01cd1697$34e81470$9eb83d50$@rr.com>
References: <4F83124F020000EF0000CEA9@smtp.mainet.com>
	<05db01cd1697$34e81470$9eb83d50$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.36.1334022346.3014.triumphs@autox.team.net>

Here's the link to the uncle jack's engine building tips page:
http://www.tonydrews.com/uncle_jacks_engine_building_tips.htm

Tony Drews

At 04:24 PM 4/9/2012, Randall wrote:
> > ISTR that there are a couple of options for replacing this seal with
> > modern
> > technology. TRF's Viton seal doesn't require machining the crank, while
> > Moss's
> > does. Are there any other options?
>
>According to an article published in the local club newsletter many years
>ago, there are (at least) two versions of the "grind the crank" conversion.
>
>Also, while it's not exactly modern technology; supposedly the original seal
>works quite well if you use a mandrel with the proper dimensions.  The
>dimensions given in the manual are not correct.  I believe TRF sells
>mandrels with the updated dimensions (last I heard, Moss did not).
>
>Personally, I am going with the Viton seal.  This conversion was developed
>by a well-known Triumph racer, running on race tracks where "marking its
>spot" can get you disqualified (and barred).  He tried the other conversion
>and found it wanting.
>
>If you do go with one of the "grind the crank" conversions, be sure you get
>the right dimensions for grinding the crank.  The instructions have been
>revised multiple times, each time making the crank surface larger.  Also
>check out "uncle jacks" web site for installation tips.
>
>-- Randall
>
>** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Mon Apr  9 20:09:49 2012
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2012 21:09:49 -0500
Subject: [TR] Early TR4 lens question
In-Reply-To: <20120410001804.F2EAF2D06B9@autox.team.net>
References: <20120410001804.F2EAF2D06B9@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <F901CCB6341F40618533221D3D8EBB4D@GregPC>

There are two different lenses, the "ribbing" in the lenses, I assume it 
serves to diffuse the light, is a different pattern, round in the early 669, 
and vertical in the later 779, I have one early and one late on my TR250, 
nobody has noticed so far...

Regards, Greg Lemon

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <spook01 at comcast.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, April 09, 2012 7:18 PM
Subject: [TR] Early TR4 lens question


> My TR4 needs a rear tail lamp lens and I see two different part numbers. 
> One is L669, the other L779.
> From the photo, they appear identical, but my car came with the L669.
> Is this just a p/n change, or are the lens different?
> Info will be appreciated!
> R
>
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone
>
> ----- Reply message -----
>
> To: "davewillner" <davewillner at pa.net>, "triumphs at autox.team.net" 
> <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [TR] TR3A horn bracket finish originality question
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/glemon at neb.rr.com

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Mon Apr  9 20:38:48 2012
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2012 02:38:48 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] side curtain stowage bag
Message-ID: <149237933.1364067.1334025528556.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

List, 



Does anyone still make a stowage bag for TR3 side curtains? 



TIA, 



Ed Woods 

From tr3a58 at verizon.net  Tue Apr 10 02:02:22 2012
From: tr3a58 at verizon.net (Dean Tetterton)
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2012 04:02:22 -0400
Subject: [TR] side curtain stowage bag
In-Reply-To: <149237933.1364067.1334025528556.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <149237933.1364067.1334025528556.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <706BB171-F34B-4F23-87B8-D414258BC316@verizon.net>

Try www.sidecurtain.com
They are nicely done.
Dean


On Apr 9, 2012, at 10:38 PM, fogbro1 at comcast.net wrote:

> List,
>
>
>
> Does anyone still make a stowage bag for TR3 side curtains?
>
>
>
> TIA,
>
>
>
> Ed Woods
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3a58 at verizon.net

From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk  Tue Apr 10 03:19:20 2012
From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2012 10:19:20 +0100 (BST)
Subject: [TR] Early TR4 lens question
In-Reply-To: <F901CCB6341F40618533221D3D8EBB4D@GregPC>
References: <20120410001804.F2EAF2D06B9@autox.team.net>
	<F901CCB6341F40618533221D3D8EBB4D@GregPC>
Message-ID: <1334049560.17302.YahooMailNeo@web29406.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

Probably came about when Aston Martin started using the same lens assembly on
the DB4.

John


http://standard-triumph-books.co.uk
>________________________________
> From: Greg Lemon <glemon at neb.rr.com>
>To:
triumphs at autox.team.net; spook01 at comcast.net 
>Sent: Tuesday, 10 April 2012,
3:09
>Subject: Re: [TR] Early TR4 lens question
>  
>There are two different
lenses, the "ribbing" in the lenses, I assume it serves to diffuse the light,
is a different pattern, round in the early 669, and vertical in the later 779,
I have one early and one late on my TR250, nobody has noticed so far...
>
>Regards, Greg Lemon
>
>----- Original Message ----- From:
<spook01 at comcast.net>
>To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>Sent: Monday, April 09,
2012 7:18 PM
>Subject: [TR] Early TR4 lens question
>
>
>> My TR4 needs a rear
tail lamp lens and I see two different part numbers. One is L669, the other
L779.
>> From the photo, they appear identical, but my car came with the L669.
>> Is this just a p/n change, or are the lens different?
>> Info will be
appreciated!
>> R
>> 
>> Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone
>> 
>> -----
Reply message -----
>> 
>> To: "davewillner" <davewillner at pa.net>,
"triumphs at autox.team.net" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>> Subject: [TR] TR3A horn
bracket finish originality question
>> 
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/glemon at neb.rr.com
>
>**
triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk

From aljlthomson at charter.net  Tue Apr 10 03:45:12 2012
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson)
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2012 05:45:12 -0400
Subject: [TR] side curtain stowage bag
In-Reply-To: <149237933.1364067.1334025528556.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <149237933.1364067.1334025528556.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <000b01cd16fe$a010c410$e0324c30$@charter.net>

I thought that Bob Danielson was going to do a project like that. Check out
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/ 

Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of fogbro1 at comcast.net
Sent: Monday, April 09, 2012 10:39 PM
To: triumph list
Subject: [TR] side curtain stowage bag

List, 



Does anyone still make a stowage bag for TR3 side curtains? 



TIA, 



Ed Woods 

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net

From tr3a.60 at gmail.com  Tue Apr 10 04:55:00 2012
From: tr3a.60 at gmail.com (John Wise)
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2012 06:55:00 -0400
Subject: [TR] side curtain stowage bag
In-Reply-To: <149237933.1364067.1334025528556.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <149237933.1364067.1334025528556.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <71334C88-D317-44C2-8634-A6A57A8DF495@gmail.com>

I personally made my own out of thick bath towels.

John

On  9 Apr, 2012, at 10:38 PM, fogbro1 at comcast.net wrote:

> List,
>
>
>
> Does anyone still make a stowage bag for TR3 side curtains?
>
>
>
> TIA,
>
>
>
> Ed Woods
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3a.60 at gmail.com

John A. Wise
Ormond Beach, FL

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue Apr 10 06:23:24 2012
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2012 08:23:24 -0400
Subject: [TR] side curtain stowage bag
In-Reply-To: <000b01cd16fe$a010c410$e0324c30$@charter.net>
References: <149237933.1364067.1334025528556.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<000b01cd16fe$a010c410$e0324c30$@charter.net>
Message-ID: <E68B15376EA3477B89259B146E39E6C4@BobPC>

I got totally side tracked by a new product... Fender Blankets 
(http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/FenderBlanket.htm)  that have been selling 
like crazy and keeping me super busy. This idea came up just as I was about 
the start on the side curtain covers and I had to decide which would be the 
better seller. These fit just about any car with a hood that opens like a 
TR6 and can also work on cars with hoods the other way.

In between the Interior Panel Kit sales I've managed to crank out 50 of 
these blankets over the past 3 months.

Bob


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
1975 TR6 with:
Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed
Nissan Diff & CVJs


-----Original Message----- 
From: Alex & Janet Thomson
Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2012 5:45 AM
To: fogbro1 at comcast.net ; 'triumph list'
Subject: Re: [TR] side curtain stowage bag

I thought that Bob Danielson was going to do a project like that. Check out
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/

Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of fogbro1 at comcast.net
Sent: Monday, April 09, 2012 10:39 PM
To: triumph list
Subject: [TR] side curtain stowage bag

List,



Does anyone still make a stowage bag for TR3 side curtains?



TIA,



Ed Woods

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From jholekamp at sbcglobal.net  Tue Apr 10 06:47:09 2012
From: jholekamp at sbcglobal.net (Jay Holekamp)
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2012 05:47:09 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3 side curtain bags
Message-ID: <1334062029.63848.YahooMailRC@web184515.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Ed Nachman makes side curtain bags (and other bags) that are outstanding:

http://www.sidecurtain.com/

brgds, Jay

'64 Triumph TR4 since '67

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Tue Apr 10 07:05:39 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2012 09:05:39 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] REAR CRANK SEAL  TR3  TR4
Message-ID: <8CEE531C3253E96-2794-16BE@webmail-m155.sysops.aol.com>

 Triumph List,

Of course, there is more to TR engine leaks than the rear seal.

Kas' newest book contains an entire chapter on avoiding engine leaks and this
chapter is worth the purchase by itself.

Kas' book includes a discussion on Chris Marx VITON SEAL version and the
change in the dimensions on the factory centering tool.

The development and distribution of the Marx Viton Seal has been a cooperative
effort, including support from Kas..

Any one going to THE MITTY can see a sample of the MARX VITON SEAL and
installation instructions, along with the new centering tool.

We will also have Kas' newest book for sale, with Kas available for signing.
Just come to the TRIUMPH PADDOCK.

At the end of the day:  You will want to track down every possible leak on
your wet sleeve engine, as it mostly migrates to the rear where the rear seal
gets the blame. You will want to ensure that your engine has all of the
crankcase ventilation it can have...with an engine that is in specification.

Then, if you rebuild the engine, you will want to use the Marx Viton Seal kit.
Those that have covered all of the bases have a leak free engine.  You dont
have to grind the crank, VITON is superior seal material, and you get the
corrected centering tool dimensions.


A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Tue Apr 10 08:02:12 2012
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2012 14:02:12 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Side Curtain Bags
Message-ID: <790783640.1379614.1334066532603.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

List,



Thanks for all the replys. I ordered same from Ken Nachman at sidecurtain.com
this morning. Off to the Mitty in 2 weeks!!



Ed Woods
B 

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Tue Apr 10 08:09:31 2012
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2012 14:09:31 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Fwd:  Side Curtain Bags
In-Reply-To: <790783640.1379614.1334066532603.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <740742667.1380134.1334066971354.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

List, 



And thanks for all the replies as well as the "replys". 



Ed 



----- Forwarded Message -----


From: fogbro1 at comcast.net 
To: "triumph list" <triumphs@ autox .team.net> 
Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2012 10:02:12 AM 
Subject: [TR] Side Curtain Bags 

List, 



Thanks for all the replies . I ordered same from Ken Nachman at sidecurtain .com 
this morning. Off to the Mitty in 2 weeks!! 



Ed Woods 
B 

** triumphs@ autox .team.net ** 

Donate: http:// www .team.net/donate.html 
Archive: http:// www .team.net/archive 
Forums: http:// www .team.net/forums 
Unsubscribe /Manage: http:// autox .team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/fogbro1 at comcast.net 

From pete_groh at yahoo.com  Tue Apr 10 11:33:55 2012
From: pete_groh at yahoo.com (Pete Groh)
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2012 10:33:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Source for side curtain bag
Message-ID: <1334079235.8305.YahooMailNeo@web111614.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

See this web page. Ken should be able to help you.
http://www.sidecurtain.com/

Ken
Nachman
3820
Dunleith Terrace
Midlothian,
Virginia 23113
cell
804.840.1441
fax 804.272.7523


 
Pete Groh (KeyGuy)

From carlsereda at aol.com  Tue Apr 10 17:43:24 2012
From: carlsereda at aol.com (Carl Sereda)
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2012 19:43:24 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR4 tail lens
In-Reply-To: <mailman.10128.1334060594.3017.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.10128.1334060594.3017.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8CEE58ADB0450A2-B48-C19D@webmail-m072.sysops.aol.com>

The early lenses have low contrast between lit and not lit (especially on
bright days).. the later lens design is darker when not lit and lighter when
lit..   but also TR250s got anodized reflecting cones inserted behind each
lightbulb to throw more light at probably the same time as the lens pattern
was redesigned..
I'm breaking all the rules.. I put TR250 cones in my TR4 light fixtures.. I'm
using vertical patterned lenses.. and in UK orange - not USA red!


Hoping no one but dazed driver behind me notices the difference.
Regards,


Carl
'63 TR4 since '74


My TR4 needs a rear tail lamp lens and I see two different part numbers.  One
is
L669, the other L779.
>From the photo, they appear identical, but my car came with the L669.
Is this just a p/n change, or are the lens different?
Info will be appreciated!
R

From Catpusher at aol.com  Tue Apr 10 17:50:07 2012
From: Catpusher at aol.com (Catpusher at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2012 19:50:07 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR-3 Rear Crankshaft Seal
Message-ID: <68c5.7f7cceb8.3cb6212f@aol.com>

One of the advantages of the standard seal, is that there is nothing to  
fail from sitting around, unless the cap packing dried out.  I would advise  
double checking where the oil is leaking first.
 BTW: I was the one to arrive at 2.818" for the seal ID/ correct size  for 
the alignment tool.
 
There was a recent post where a seal was installed with the "factory"  
alignment tool and once the rear main cap was tightened with the tool and  seal 
in place, the seal could not be moved.  Stop right there if this  ever 
happens!
Tighten the rear main cap with the alignment tool in place, and Then  slide 
the seal halfs in place; if they will not slide in, find out what the  
problem is before going further.  The alignment tool is a good way to check  the 
seal ID before you start the process of installing or reinstalling.
 
TR Regards,
Hardy
 
 
From:  "John Walker" <jwalker at mainet.com>
To:  <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR-3 Rear Crankshaft  Seal
List,

After taking TR-3B TS#68368 around the block for it's  first movement under
it's own power in 30 years, I discovered that the rear  main seal is 
leaking.
ISTR that there are a couple of options for replacing  this seal with modern
technology. TRF's Viton seal doesn't require  machining the crank, while 
Moss's
does. Are there any other options? Any  experience with either version with
regard to ease of installation and  effectiveness once installed?

TIA,
John  Walker

From spook01 at comcast.net  Tue Apr 10 20:15:17 2012
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2012 21:15:17 -0500
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?TR4_tail_lens?=
Message-ID: <mailman.38.1334110506.3014.triumphs@autox.team.net>

Thanks to all who answered my question!

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Carl Sereda" <carlsereda at aol.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR4 tail lens
Date: Tue, Apr 10, 2012 18:43


The early lenses have low contrast between lit and not lit (especially on
bright days).. the later lens design is darker when not lit and lighter when
lit..   but also TR250s got anodized reflecting cones inserted behind each
lightbulb to throw more light at probably the same time as the lens pattern
was redesigned..
I'm breaking all the rules.. I put TR250 cones in my TR4 light fixtures.. I'm
using vertical patterned lenses.. and in UK orange - not USA red!


Hoping no one but dazed driver behind me notices the difference.
Regards,


Carl
'63 TR4 since '74


My TR4 needs a rear tail lamp lens and I see two different part numbers.  One
is
L669, the other L779.
>From the photo, they appear identical, but my car came with the L669.
Is this just a p/n change, or are the lens different?
Info will be appreciated!
R

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net

From tr6parts at charter.net  Tue Apr 10 20:17:47 2012
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore)
Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2012 22:17:47 -0400
Subject: [TR] tr6 fender
Message-ID: <E3C3B9C7E2A7442F99D13A53177379C7@Alan>

I'm looking for a left front tr6 fender.

Al Salvatore
Greenville, SC 29680

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Wed Apr 11 10:24:52 2012
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 16:24:52 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR3 head lamp buckets
Message-ID: <1874171793.9146.1334161492241.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

List, 



Anyone out there that has original headlamp buckets on their 59-62 TR3 or early TR4 that can tell me what the lettering on the face of the bucket reads? Should be something like "Lucas 700 Mk???". 



I'm trying to find out what's correct for my '60 TR3. 



Thanks, 



Ed Woods 

From davewillner at pa.net  Wed Apr 11 11:14:43 2012
From: davewillner at pa.net (davewillner)
Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 13:14:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 head lamp buckets
References: <1874171793.9146.1334161492241.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <DDC13F185A8340208191769C31D9193C@valued9cfc0b6f>

Mine says:

"LUCAS 700 MKVIII"
MADE IN ENGLAND

Dave Willner
Stroudsburg PA
59 TR3A
70 MGB
70 BSA 441 VS

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <fogbro1 at comcast.net>
To: "triumph list" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2012 12:24 PM
Subject: [TR] TR3 head lamp buckets


> List,
>
>
>
> Anyone out there that has original headlamp buckets on their 59-62 TR3 or 
> early TR4 that can tell me what the lettering on the face of the bucket 
> reads? Should be something like "Lucas 700 Mk???".
>
>
>
> I'm trying to find out what's correct for my '60 TR3.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Ed Woods
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/davewillner at pa.net

From william.f.daehler at delphi.com  Wed Apr 11 12:35:51 2012
From: william.f.daehler at delphi.com (Daehler, William F)
Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 18:35:51 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR4 Replacement Turn Cancellation Signal Switch
Message-ID: <9E1CC0F0B106764CA9F4156E627D8B0D083B1C@017-CH1MPN1-022.017d.mgd.msft.net>

I'm stumped on this one.

The old switch is mounted to the steering column with two #8 screws. The old
screws won't thread into the brand new switch.  I had seen this before, aka
Clutch slave cylinder where the bleed screw was metric. Confident that I knew
the problem, I went to the tool room today.

I just came back from the tool room, thought I found the perfect M4 screw.
Imagine my surprise, it won't thread in either.  I guess brute force is an
answer, but have no idea whether to re-tap it metric or re-tap it SAE.

What's going on here? Any suggestions?



Will Daehler
63 TR4 Powder Blue
*****************************************************************************
*********** Note: If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient,
or an employee or agent responsible for delivering this message to the
intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination,
distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you
have received this communication in error, please notify us immediately by
replying to the message and deleting it from your computer. Thank you.
*****************************************************************************
***********

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Apr 11 12:54:06 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 11:54:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 Replacement Turn Cancellation Signal Switch
In-Reply-To: <9E1CC0F0B106764CA9F4156E627D8B0D083B1C@017-CH1MPN1-022.017d.mgd.msft.net>
References: <9E1CC0F0B106764CA9F4156E627D8B0D083B1C@017-CH1MPN1-022.017d.mgd.msft.net>
Message-ID: <07c101cd1814$7973d7e0$6c5b87a0$@rr.com>

> What's going on here? Any suggestions?

The parts catalog shows those screws as TP0402.  According to the hardware
catalog, those should be #8 NF, which would be 8-36 instead of the much more
common 8-32.  Seems odd to me either way, but I would check the screws you
have; if they are 8-32 then try 8-36 and vice versa.

-- Randall 

From william.f.daehler at delphi.com  Wed Apr 11 13:12:04 2012
From: william.f.daehler at delphi.com (Daehler, William F)
Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 19:12:04 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR4 Replacement Turn Cancellation Signal Switch
In-Reply-To: <07c101cd1814$7973d7e0$6c5b87a0$@rr.com>
References: <9E1CC0F0B106764CA9F4156E627D8B0D083B1C@017-CH1MPN1-022.017d.mgd.msft.net>
	<07c101cd1814$7973d7e0$6c5b87a0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <9E1CC0F0B106764CA9F4156E627D8B0D083B72@017-CH1MPN1-022.017d.mgd.msft.net>

Eureka !  That was it.  Found the match,  8-32  is quite common,  and fits
like a glove.

Thank you Randall.


-----Original Message-----
From: Randall [mailto:tr3driver at ca.rr.com]
Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2012 2:54 PM
To: Daehler, William F; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] TR4 Replacement Turn Cancellation Signal Switch

> What's going on here? Any suggestions?

The parts catalog shows those screws as TP0402.  According to the hardware
catalog, those should be #8 NF, which would be 8-36 instead of the much more
common 8-32.  Seems odd to me either way, but I would check the screws you
have; if they are 8-32 then try 8-36 and vice versa.

-- Randall

*****************************************************************************
*********** Note: If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient,
or an employee or agent responsible for delivering this message to the
intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination,
distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you
have received this communication in error, please notify us immediately by
replying to the message and deleting it from your computer. Thank you.
*****************************************************************************
***********

From mikey22 at prodigy.net  Wed Apr 11 13:59:16 2012
From: mikey22 at prodigy.net (MIKE CARROLL)
Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 12:59:16 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] 74 triumph TR 6 pinion oil seal
Message-ID: <1334174356.30564.YahooMailClassic@web83602.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

I am looking for the simplest way to replace the pinion oil seal at the front of the differential with out removing the entire differential. Is this even possible? If it is possible what am I looking at as far as removing things, difficulty and amount of time to get this done? Also any special tools to remove and replace the seal? At this time it is a small leak, 1 or 2 drops then stops but it is the last leak I have. Any suggestions would be appreciated. 


Mike Carroll TR 6
Santa Cruz, ca 

From greg at gelhar.com  Wed Apr 11 16:24:05 2012
From: greg at gelhar.com (greg at gelhar.com)
Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 18:24:05 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 Replacement Turn Cancellation Signal Switch
In-Reply-To: <9E1CC0F0B106764CA9F4156E627D8B0D083B1C@017-CH1MPN1-022.017d.mgd.msft.net>
References: <9E1CC0F0B106764CA9F4156E627D8B0D083B1C@017-CH1MPN1-022.017d.mgd.msft.net>
Message-ID: <8f488212c9e67d15b234bb8de9fbe72d.squirrel@email.accountsupport.com>

If the switch was manufactured by Lucas, they used BA screw threads. The
closest BA screw to a M4 is a 2BA with a metric pitch of .81mm.

Greg G.
Osseo, MN



> I'm stumped on this one.
>
> The old switch is mounted to the steering column with two #8 screws. The
> old
> screws won't thread into the brand new switch.  I had seen this before,
> aka
> Clutch slave cylinder where the bleed screw was metric. Confident that I
> knew
> the problem, I went to the tool room today.
>
> I just came back from the tool room, thought I found the perfect M4 screw.
> Imagine my surprise, it won't thread in either.  I guess brute force is an
> answer, but have no idea whether to re-tap it metric or re-tap it SAE.
>
> What's going on here? Any suggestions?
>
>
>
> Will Daehler
> 63 TR4 Powder Blue
> *****************************************************************************
> *********** Note: If the reader of this message is not the intended
> recipient,
> or an employee or agent responsible for delivering this message to the
> intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination,
> distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If
> you
> have received this communication in error, please notify us immediately by
> replying to the message and deleting it from your computer. Thank you.
> *****************************************************************************
> ***********
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/greg at gelhar.com

From zoboherald at aol.com  Wed Apr 11 19:01:41 2012
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace)
Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 21:01:41 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] 74 triumph TR 6 pinion oil seal
In-Reply-To: <1334174356.30564.YahooMailClassic@web83602.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <1334174356.30564.YahooMailClassic@web83602.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8CEE65EF4D9F044-9A4-23DD@webmail-m150.sysops.aol.com>

 Mike, I'm sure it's doable and that someone will tell you how shortly. But
before you go to the trouble, you might want to clean up any gunk on or around
the breather hole and the split pin that is in it. The pin should be free to
wiggle about a bit, which in turn helps keep the breather open and
functioning. I think it's on the upper right on the cover assembly. What you
describe doesn't sound like much of a leak, and this might just be all you
need to do to pretty much stop that leak.



--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us




-----Original Message-----
From: MIKE CARROLL <mikey22 at prodigy.net>


I am looking for the simplest way to replace the pinion oil seal at the front
of
the differential with out removing the entire differential. Is this even
possible? If it is possible what am I looking at as far as removing things,
difficulty and amount of time to get this done? Also any special tools to
remove
and replace the seal? At this time it is a small leak, 1 or 2 drops then stops
but it is the last leak I have. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Wed Apr 11 21:11:52 2012
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 22:11:52 -0500
Subject: [TR] 74 triumph TR 6 pinion oil seal
In-Reply-To: <8CEE65EF4D9F044-9A4-23DD@webmail-m150.sysops.aol.com>
References: <1334174356.30564.YahooMailClassic@web83602.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<8CEE65EF4D9F044-9A4-23DD@webmail-m150.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <780750D9E5BF4D329440C243BAEB2565@GregPC>

I recently did this job, I got under and detached the driveshaft and 
assessed the situation.

There is not a lot of room to work, I don't like to take things apart if I 
don't have to, but I decided it would be much easier to pull the diff than 
to try to do the job with the thing in place.

Maybe there is a trick I don't know, but that was my experience.

Greg Lemon
68 TR250

From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com  Wed Apr 11 22:57:11 2012
From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad)
Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 21:57:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] 74 triumph TR 6 pinion oil seal
In-Reply-To: <780750D9E5BF4D329440C243BAEB2565@GregPC>
References: <1334174356.30564.YahooMailClassic@web83602.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<8CEE65EF4D9F044-9A4-23DD@webmail-m150.sysops.aol.com>
	<780750D9E5BF4D329440C243BAEB2565@GregPC>
Message-ID: <1334206631.56054.YahooMailNeo@web120502.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

I can't think of a good way to do this without removing the diff.
 
Chad in
Tulsa


________________________________
From: Greg Lemon <glemon at neb.rr.com>
To: mikey22 at prodigy.net; triumphs at autox.team.net; Andrew S. Mace
<zoboherald at aol.com> 
Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2012 10:11 PM
Subject: Re:
[TR] 74 triumph TR 6 pinion oil seal

I recently did this job, I got under and
detached the driveshaft and assessed the situation.

There is not a lot of
room to work, I don't like to take things apart if I don't have to, but I
decided it would be much easier to pull the diff than to try to do the job
with the thing in place.

Maybe there is a trick I don't know, but that was my
experience.

Greg Lemon
68 TR250

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com

From triumphstag at gmail.com  Thu Apr 12 21:49:03 2012
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy)
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2012 20:49:03 -0700
Subject: [TR] tap set recommendations
Message-ID: <CANLCLaHfSCRDpbU5dV89LP8owjLYXMWnZOfw8TwczhCYH8t_-A@mail.gmail.com>

I need a few taps for the Triumph. Should I buy a set or individual ones?
Which brands are worth recommending?


Sujit

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Apr 12 22:24:03 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2012 21:24:03 -0700
Subject: [TR] tap set recommendations
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaHfSCRDpbU5dV89LP8owjLYXMWnZOfw8TwczhCYH8t_-A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaHfSCRDpbU5dV89LP8owjLYXMWnZOfw8TwczhCYH8t_-A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <05e501cd192d$422d9a40$0601a8c0@randall>

> I need a few taps for the Triumph. Should I buy a set or 
> individual ones?
> Which brands are worth recommending?

Kind of depends on what you need to do.  If you just need to chase existing
threads, then Sears sells a very nice "rethreading" tap & die set for about
$50.  It covers common SAE sizes from 1/4 to 9/16 (both NF & NC) as well as
the most common metric sizes from 6mm to 12mm.  Plus there are an assortment
of "thread files" included, which can sometimes let you repair oddball
threads (if the pitch matches).  I particularly like it because the taps &
dies are designed to fit into the same space as an equivalent nut or bolt,
and be turned with ordinary hand tools (eg socket & ratchet) rather than
requiring the special tap and die wrenches that are so big.  But it won't
cut new threads.  

If you need to cut new threads then it becomes a question of how many.
Carbon steel is cheapest, but least durable.  I have a Hanson carbon steel
tap & die set that I've owned for some 30 years and it's just starting to
wear out (except for the few taps I've broken of course).  I had to sharpen
up one of the taps the other day.  But if I were a production shop, I'd be
looking for something in at least HSS or perhaps carbide.  The better
materials start getting expensive enough that it might make more sense to
only buy the sizes you need.

My only other comment is that the tap & die set I got from HF was junk.

-- Randall  

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Fri Apr 13 05:48:24 2012
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2012 07:48:24 -0400
Subject: [TR] wrinkle paint or cover?
In-Reply-To: <CANLCLaHfSCRDpbU5dV89LP8owjLYXMWnZOfw8TwczhCYH8t_-A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANLCLaHfSCRDpbU5dV89LP8owjLYXMWnZOfw8TwczhCYH8t_-A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <9BCE89DBCD2D4F13BEFB37D80950EFD0@DCH6RFC1>

I am restoring a smallmouth TR3 TS19652.  Should the gauge cluster panel be
covered or painted in wrinkle paint?

Andrew Uprichard

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Apr 13 05:56:51 2012
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2012 07:56:51 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] wrinkle paint or cover?
Message-ID: <35e0.5c42ea9.3cb96e83@cs.com>

In a message dated 4/13/2012 6:48:53 AM Central Daylight Time, 
auprichard at uprichard.net writes: 
> I am restoring a smallmouth TR3 TS19652.  Should the gauge cluster panel 
> be
> covered or painted in wrinkle paint?
> 
> 

I have one of each.  But I was told that the wrinkle is correct and after 
trying both the contrast looks better, in my opinion.

Moss sells an aerosol that works well.  One can will cover three gauge 
clusters, or , as in my case, one panel three times to get it right.

Dave
TR3 TS18010(O)

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Fri Apr 13 06:08:05 2012
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2012 08:08:05 -0400
Subject: [TR] wrinkle paint or cover?
In-Reply-To: <9BCE89DBCD2D4F13BEFB37D80950EFD0@DCH6RFC1>
References: <CANLCLaHfSCRDpbU5dV89LP8owjLYXMWnZOfw8TwczhCYH8t_-A@mail.gmail.com>
	<9BCE89DBCD2D4F13BEFB37D80950EFD0@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <4F881725.9000309@adelphia.net>

Andrew,

It should be wrinkle paint. I would have it powder coated if possible.

Bob

On 04/13/2012 07:48 AM, Andrew Uprichard wrote:
> I am restoring a smallmouth TR3 TS19652.  Should the gauge cluster panel be
> covered or painted in wrinkle paint?
>
> Andrew Uprichard
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr at adelphia.net

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Fri Apr 13 06:08:09 2012
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2012 08:08:09 -0400
Subject: [TR] wrinkle paint or cover?
In-Reply-To: <9BCE89DBCD2D4F13BEFB37D80950EFD0@DCH6RFC1>
References: <CANLCLaHfSCRDpbU5dV89LP8owjLYXMWnZOfw8TwczhCYH8t_-A@mail.gmail.com>
	<9BCE89DBCD2D4F13BEFB37D80950EFD0@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <B45C6C4F6CD74F318B35DC86434EEC29@DCH6RFC1>

I love it:  four replies:  2 for covering it, 2 for wrinkle paint !!  I know
the early cars were covered and they later turned to paint, but does anyone
know when it occurred?

And thanks to those who have replied.

Andrew

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard
Sent: Friday, April 13, 2012 7:48 AM
To: 'Triumphs'
Subject: [TR] wrinkle paint or cover?

I am restoring a smallmouth TR3 TS19652.  Should the gauge cluster panel be
covered or painted in wrinkle paint?

Andrew Uprichard

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Fri Apr 13 06:21:59 2012
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl-TR)
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2012 08:21:59 -0400
Subject: [TR] wrinkle paint or cover?
In-Reply-To: <4F881725.9000309@adelphia.net>
References: <CANLCLaHfSCRDpbU5dV89LP8owjLYXMWnZOfw8TwczhCYH8t_-A@mail.gmail.com>
	<9BCE89DBCD2D4F13BEFB37D80950EFD0@DCH6RFC1>
	<4F881725.9000309@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <001501cd1970$07fac940$17f05bc0$@verizon.net>

If you powder coat - at least test fit all gauges and switches before
putting the panel on the dash fascia.  I had to sand down the pc a little on
several of the openings because of tight fit.   Much easier to do off the
fascia....

C


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Labuz
Sent: Friday, April 13, 2012 8:08 AM
To: Andrew Uprichard
Cc: 'Triumphs'
Subject: Re: [TR] wrinkle paint or cover?

Andrew,

It should be wrinkle paint. I would have it powder coated if possible.

Bob

On 04/13/2012 07:48 AM, Andrew Uprichard wrote:
> I am restoring a smallmouth TR3 TS19652.  Should the gauge cluster 
> panel be covered or painted in wrinkle paint?
>
> Andrew Uprichard
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr at adelphia.net

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net

From davewillner at pa.net  Fri Apr 13 06:57:24 2012
From: davewillner at pa.net (davewillner)
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2012 08:57:24 -0400
Subject: [TR] wrinkle paint or cover?
References: <CANLCLaHfSCRDpbU5dV89LP8owjLYXMWnZOfw8TwczhCYH8t_-A@mail.gmail.com><9BCE89DBCD2D4F13BEFB37D80950EFD0@DCH6RFC1>
	<B45C6C4F6CD74F318B35DC86434EEC29@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <3BBAE958F5E14E6B978E1A4479866349@valued9cfc0b6f>

Change was at TS22014 (or close) which is September 57, according to Piggot

Dave Willner
Stroudsburg PA
59 TR3A
70 MGB
70 BSA 441 VS

---- Original Message ----- 
From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard at uprichard.net>
To: "'Triumphs'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, April 13, 2012 8:08 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] wrinkle paint or cover?


>I love it:  four replies:  2 for covering it, 2 for wrinkle paint !!  I 
>know
> the early cars were covered and they later turned to paint, but does 
> anyone
> know when it occurred?
>
> And thanks to those who have replied.
>
> Andrew
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard
> Sent: Friday, April 13, 2012 7:48 AM
> To: 'Triumphs'
> Subject: [TR] wrinkle paint or cover?
>
> I am restoring a smallmouth TR3 TS19652.  Should the gauge cluster panel 
> be
> covered or painted in wrinkle paint?
>
> Andrew Uprichard
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/davewillner at pa.net

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Fri Apr 13 07:13:45 2012
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2012 13:13:45 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Wrinkle Paint
Message-ID: <437959325.115483.1334322825753.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

TS21130L, a late '57 smallmounth, was fabric covered. 



Ed Woods 

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Apr 13 08:15:17 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2012 07:15:17 -0700
Subject: [TR] wrinkle paint or cover?
In-Reply-To: <B45C6C4F6CD74F318B35DC86434EEC29@DCH6RFC1>
References: <CANLCLaHfSCRDpbU5dV89LP8owjLYXMWnZOfw8TwczhCYH8t_-A@mail.gmail.com><9BCE89DBCD2D4F13BEFB37D80950EFD0@DCH6RFC1>
	<B45C6C4F6CD74F318B35DC86434EEC29@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <063801cd197f$dad2c700$0601a8c0@randall>

> but does anyone
> know when it occurred?

Well, I wasn't there at the time; but the factory documentation (SPC), TRA
judging standards, and historians like Bill Piggott all seem to agree that
it was at the TR3/3A changeover.  Meaning 22013 (the "last" TR3) had fabric,
and 22014 (the "first" TR3A) had paint.

Personally, I like the paint better, so TS13571L is wearing black crinkle
powder coat (a memento from FT).  The car came to me with a shiny "machine
turned" aftermarket cover on the panel, that I think is hideous.

-- Randall  

From gpr at key-men.com  Fri Apr 13 08:39:34 2012
From: gpr at key-men.com (George Richardson)
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2012 10:39:34 -0400
Subject: [TR] wrinkle paint or cover?
In-Reply-To: <9BCE89DBCD2D4F13BEFB37D80950EFD0@DCH6RFC1>
References: <CANLCLaHfSCRDpbU5dV89LP8owjLYXMWnZOfw8TwczhCYH8t_-A@mail.gmail.com>
	<9BCE89DBCD2D4F13BEFB37D80950EFD0@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <4F883AA6.3090206@key-men.com>

TS15559L had fabric cover on the instrument cluster, and was redone in 
same.

George Richardson
Key Men - Keys for Classics
www.key-men.com


On 4/13/2012 7:48 AM, Andrew Uprichard wrote:
> I am restoring a smallmouth TR3 TS19652.  Should the gauge cluster panel be
> covered or painted in wrinkle paint?
>
> Andrew Uprichard
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/gpr at key-men.com

From wbeech at flash.net  Fri Apr 13 09:27:56 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2012 10:27:56 -0500
Subject: [TR] Wrinkle Paint
In-Reply-To: <437959325.115483.1334322825753.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <437959325.115483.1334322825753.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <DE9B87D25D0E4A448161BB1B598CBF74@bboffice>

TRA judging guide concurs, TR2-3 are covered with the dash material while
TR3A(TS22014) and forward get the black wrinkle paint.

Personally, I would agree that powder coat is the way to go as the wrinkly
paint is chipping quite easily.

Bill

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of fogbro1 at comcast.net
Sent: Friday, April 13, 2012 8:14 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Wrinkle Paint

TS21130L, a late '57 smallmounth, was fabric covered. 



Ed Woods 

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From agraham at execulink.com  Fri Apr 13 15:23:10 2012
From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham)
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2012 17:23:10 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR2 gas line/float bowl question
Message-ID: <4F88993E.8020001@execulink.com>

Hello List:
Sorting out issues on my '2 project and having a bit of a problem with 
the banjo fittings on the float bowls. I'm still using HS4s and they use 
a solid line and banjo fittings on the bowls. I am using the fiber 
gaskets on either side of the banjo fitting, but because of 
over-tightening the large bolts, I can't get the fittings to stop 
leaking. I must have totaled the fiber gaskets, but they still look OK.
Is it possible to use neoprene 'O' rings on these banjos? There must be 
something better than the fiber gaskets that came with my rebuild kit.
Thanks for any help with this.
Angelo Graham

From JPayne at ThorCon.net  Fri Apr 13 15:27:49 2012
From: JPayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne)
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2012 21:27:49 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR2 gas line/float bowl question
In-Reply-To: <4F88993E.8020001@execulink.com>
References: <4F88993E.8020001@execulink.com>
Message-ID: <5891B364A7C3594B9466304B59E65B1C133AB1F9@ex1mbx01.onthenetoffice.com>

Soak the fiber gaskets in either motor oil or gas for 24 hours prior to
install.

They'll never seal when new and dry.


Jonas Payne
PBR
Cell:   (702) 358-5084

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Apr 13 15:42:05 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2012 14:42:05 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR2 gas line/float bowl question
In-Reply-To: <4F88993E.8020001@execulink.com>
References: <4F88993E.8020001@execulink.com>
Message-ID: <09e101cd19be$458e0b70$d0aa2250$@rr.com>

> I'm still using HS4s

I assume this is a typo; your TR2 should have H4, not HS4.

> I must have totaled the fiber gaskets, but they still look OK.

While it certainly wouldn't hurt to try new gaskets, IMO it's more likely
the fitting is damaged.

> Is it possible to use neoprene 'O' rings on these banjos?

I don't believe so.  O-rings normally need to be captured on both sides as
otherwise they tend to pop out of place when compressed.  You might be able
to get them to work by machining a groove into the face of the banjo fitting
or something like that.

But in my limited experience, the fiber actually works quite well, unless
there is some defect in the washers you have (like the wrong
width/thickness/diameter).

You might try assembling the joint without the washers, with the bolt just
finger-tight.  Then measure the gap (if any) left by the absence of the
washers, in several places, and compare that to the thickness of the
washers.  As I recall, the bolt will bottom in the threads without the
washers, but obviously the remaining gap has to be less than the thickness
of the washers.  And of course the gap should be the same width all around,
or else something is distorted.  The solution may be as simple as bending
the hard line slightly.

Go ahead and order a couple sets of new gaskets, they are only $2/each and a
good thing to have on hand anyway.

-- Randall 

From fishplate at charter.net  Fri Apr 13 19:58:06 2012
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff)
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2012 21:58:06 -0400
Subject: [TR] tap set recommendations
In-Reply-To: <05e501cd192d$422d9a40$0601a8c0@randall>
References: <CANLCLaHfSCRDpbU5dV89LP8owjLYXMWnZOfw8TwczhCYH8t_-A@mail.gmail.com>
	<05e501cd192d$422d9a40$0601a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <4F88D9AE.3070809@charter.net>

On 4/13/2012 12:24 AM, Randall wrote:
> My only other comment is that the tap&  die set I got from HF was junk.

We had a guy at work buy one of those for our tractors/farm equipment.  
I could have kicked him. Hard.

Instead, I just bought another as soon as I could.  HF has some good, 
useful stuff.  The tap set is not one of those things.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

From trdoctor at aol.com  Fri Apr 13 21:13:44 2012
From: trdoctor at aol.com (Sam Clark)
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2012 22:13:44 -0500
Subject: [TR] VTR South Central Regional
Message-ID: <955E4D4B-4857-4767-9257-A868796FCFD9@aol.com>

Just a reminder that the 28th annual VTR South Central Regional is happening
on April 26-28 in Broken Arrow, Oklahoma.  For more information see our web
site at:
www.greencountrytriumphs.com
Or contact me.  Surely EVERYBODY isn't going to the Mitty!  And I mean VTR
reps too ;-)

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Sat Apr 14 07:35:45 2012
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2012 09:35:45 -0400
Subject: [TR] Spitfire Bonnet Question
Message-ID: <BLU168-W132D94D0DE267C36E83F20ABA380@phx.gbl>

Need some advice or a picture. Let me see if I can butcher up this description
good enough to totally lose you. I have a 64 Spitfire and where the bonnet
mounts to the frame it is as follows. There are two vertical uprights as part
of the frame. Then there are two U shaped channels that slide into the
uprights and are held in place with two 5/16" bolts each. The bonnet has two
arms that stick out with disc on the end. these disc drop into the U shaped
channels ad a 5/16" bolt goes through the two pieces holding them in place.
Now for the questions, the disc are 1/4" narrower than the U channel so there
is side to side slop.  Also the holes in the U channel where the bolts go
through and then through the bonnet discs are slots to allow for up/down
adjustment. Did I loose you yet?  Currently there is nothing there to lock the
bonnet in place to keep it from floating side to side in the U channel and
also up and down in the slots. I thought about making up spacers but if I did
that and tightened the bolt down to lock it in place then it would be locked
in place and kept from rotating to open the bonnet also. So, are these just
made to float around like this or am I missing some pieces? Thanks,Marty

From aljlthomson at charter.net  Sat Apr 14 07:46:49 2012
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson)
Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2012 09:46:49 -0400
Subject: [TR] Spitfire Bonnet Question
In-Reply-To: <BLU168-W132D94D0DE267C36E83F20ABA380@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU168-W132D94D0DE267C36E83F20ABA380@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <002301cd1a45$0a9ed760$1fdc8620$@charter.net>

Marty - Take a look at the parts diagrams from Spitbits. Their web address
is http://www.spitbits.com.  Maybe they can help.
Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of marty sukey
Sent: Saturday, April 14, 2012 9:36 AM
To: Triumph List
Subject: [TR] Spitfire Bonnet Question

Need some advice or a picture. Let me see if I can butcher up this
description good enough to totally lose you. I have a 64 Spitfire and where
the bonnet mounts to the frame it is as follows. There are two vertical
uprights as part of the frame. Then there are two U shaped channels that
slide into the uprights and are held in place with two 5/16" bolts each. The
bonnet has two arms that stick out with disc on the end. these disc drop
into the U shaped channels ad a 5/16" bolt goes through the two pieces
holding them in place.
Now for the questions, the disc are 1/4" narrower than the U channel so
there is side to side slop.  Also the holes in the U channel where the bolts
go through and then through the bonnet discs are slots to allow for up/down
adjustment. Did I loose you yet?  Currently there is nothing there to lock
the bonnet in place to keep it from floating side to side in the U channel
and also up and down in the slots. I thought about making up spacers but if
I did that and tightened the bolt down to lock it in place then it would be
locked in place and kept from rotating to open the bonnet also. So, are
these just made to float around like this or am I missing some pieces?
Thanks,Marty

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net

From pethier at comcast.net  Sat Apr 14 11:59:38 2012
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2012 17:59:38 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Power Steering fluid
In-Reply-To: <44DEE8AF029E44A4B89E1428DBDE7578@bboffice>
Message-ID: <147121106.1634661.1334426378377.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Have a spot of trouble with the Stag.  All the power-steering fluid leaked out.  With driving season coming, I finally got out to the shop to address this.

Cleaned up the area down below hoping to be able spot the source of the leak.

Started to pour fresh fluid into the reservoir (pump has Delco guts).  It filled right up and won't take any more.  I cranked the engine over for a bit, and I can see the pulley going around.  The fluid level does not go down at all.  


Do I have to actually run the engine to get the fluid in?

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://www.mnautox.com

From darrellw360 at mac.com  Sat Apr 14 12:33:13 2012
From: darrellw360 at mac.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2012 11:33:13 -0700
Subject: [TR] Power Steering fluid
In-Reply-To: <147121106.1634661.1334426378377.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <147121106.1634661.1334426378377.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <A7870047-B230-4C1B-9D48-1A1C495A1B25@mac.com>

On Apr 14, 2012, at 10:59 AM, pethier at comcast.net wrote:

> Started to pour fresh fluid into the reservoir (pump has Delco guts).  It filled right up and won't take any more.  I cranked the engine over for a bit, and I can see the pulley going around.  The fluid level does not go down at all.  
> 
> 
> Do I have to actually run the engine to get the fluid in?

The instructions for refilling my TR8 PS system from dry are something like fill the reservoir, start the car, turn slowly to one lock and back, top up the reservoir, turn slowly to the other lock and back, top up again.  Or it might have you top up at lock, then again and center, etc.

In any case, it seems like you need the pump running, and the rack moving to get the fluif in there.

-Darrell

From tedtsimx at bright.net  Sat Apr 14 13:25:43 2012
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2012 15:25:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] Walter Mitty - Kastner Cup race T.shirt
Message-ID: <4F89CF37.90701@bright.net>

Hello lists. Triumph is the featured marque at the upcoming Walter Mitty 
vintage races at Road Atlanta. This event is also featuring a special 
all Triumph race and the Grand Marshall is "Kas"Kastner. Kas was the 
founder and head of the US Triumph Competition Department.  He wrote the 
Compettion Preparation manuals that served as the bible for generations 
of Triumph racers.   "FOT", group of TR racers, slong with Kas started 
the Kastner Cup award 10 years ago. Awarded by Kas and to his own 
personal criteria, this is a prestigious honor for any TR racer.
We did a production run Kastner Cup T.shirts for the FOT group. The 
repsonse has been excellent and another, small run of shirts is being 
considered.  Some of the proceeds go to FOT to fund things like helping 
with travel expense for honored guests, promoting FOT event involvement 
and more.

  So, if there is enough interest, we will do an additional print run of 
shirts. This is a one time only print run.  Due to the number we printed 
on the first run, we were able to keep the cost down. Shirt prices will 
be higher than previous run due to lower volume and set-up expense. We 
need a minimum 36 piece order to do another run.  Prices will be $15 
Small - X-Large; $17 for XXL.  If we have eough orders to run 48 or 
more, price goes down by $1 per shirt.  Pictures of  shirt are attached. 
If the images ares stripped, plesae email me and we will send directly 
to you.

There is a possibility that we could have them done in time for pick at 
Road Atlanta.  A go/no go date for ordering is close of business this 
coming Wednesday, April 18.
Please call or email with your order. All contact information is on the 
signature line of this email.
Thanks for your time and support. Ted


-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US&  Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_0735.JPG]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of IMG_0736.JPG]

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Sat Apr 14 13:38:00 2012
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2012 12:38:00 -0700
Subject: [TR] Power Steering fluid
In-Reply-To: <A7870047-B230-4C1B-9D48-1A1C495A1B25@mac.com>
References: <147121106.1634661.1334426378377.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<A7870047-B230-4C1B-9D48-1A1C495A1B25@mac.com>
Message-ID: <4F89D218.2060705@gmail.com>

On 4/14/12 11:33 AM, Darrell Walker wrote:
> The instructions for refilling my TR8 PS system from dry are something 
> like fill the reservoir, start the car, turn slowly to one lock and 
> back, top up the reservoir, turn slowly to the other lock and back, 
> top up again. Or it might have you top up at lock, then again and 
> center, etc. In any case, it seems like you need the pump running, and 
> the rack moving to get the fluif in there. -Darrell

Some directions I have seen for putting fluid into an empty power 
steering system says to lift  both front wheels off the ground while 
doing the above.  Not lifting the front wheels off the ground would void 
the power steering pump warranty.

So it probably would not hurt to lift the front wheels even if the 
manual doesn't say to do so.

Teriann

From pethier at comcast.net  Sat Apr 14 14:11:30 2012
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2012 20:11:30 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Power Steering fluid
In-Reply-To: <4F89D218.2060705@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1455617794.1637799.1334434290975.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Chal came over and we started the engine. B He moved the wheel back and forth
and said that the power steering is working. B The level didn't go down and I
couldn't find any leaks.

Weird. B Maybe nothing is wrong and Jeff just overflowed the reservoir
checking the caster.

I'm going to drive it and watch the fluid level and watch for leak spots.



Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://www.mnautox.com

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Apr 14 15:36:07 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2012 14:36:07 -0700
Subject: [TR] Power Steering fluid
In-Reply-To: <147121106.1634661.1334426378377.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <44DEE8AF029E44A4B89E1428DBDE7578@bboffice>
	<147121106.1634661.1334426378377.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <078f01cd1a86$9a0cea90$0601a8c0@randall>

> Started to pour fresh fluid into the reservoir (pump has 
> Delco guts).  It filled right up and won't take any more.  I 
> cranked the engine over for a bit, and I can see the pulley 
> going around.  The fluid level does not go down at all.  

I see you've got this solved; just wanted to point out that there is very
little difference between "full" and "too low to work".  If the pump is
sucking air, the system won't work even if the valve and rack are completely
full.

Also, as noted, even with the engine running, the normal fluid path is only
from the pump through the valve and back to the pump.  If there is air in
the rack, you have to turn the steering back and forth to work the air out
and fluid in.  It may take several slow strokes from lock to lock and back
again to get all the air out.

-- Randall  

From trdoctor at aol.com  Sun Apr 15 00:01:03 2012
From: trdoctor at aol.com (Sam Clark)
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2012 01:01:03 -0500
Subject: [TR] Power Steering fluid
In-Reply-To: <mailman.13.1334426403.29426.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.13.1334426403.29426.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <79B4D454-9FA7-4148-B44E-3270A5A52E5F@aol.com>

You need to place the car on the floor, start it, and turn the steering wheel
side to side to load the system and make the valves switch.  I did the same
thing a few years back with my wife's Jag after a rack replacement.  I filled
it and turned the wheels with the car up in the air and took it for a test
drive.  It was moaning before I went a block.  I took it back to the house and
filled up the  with the car on the ground and turning the wheels and it worked
like a champ.

Sam
On Apr 14, 2012, at 1:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:
>
>
> Have a spot of trouble with the Stag.  All the power-steering fluid leaked
out.  With driving season coming, I finally got out to the shop to address
this.
>
> Cleaned up the area down below hoping to be able spot the source of the
leak.
>
> Started to pour fresh fluid into the reservoir (pump has Delco guts).  It
filled right up and won't take any more.  I cranked the engine over for a bit,
and I can see the pulley going around.  The fluid level does not go down at
all.
>
>
> Do I have to actually run the engine to get the fluid in?
>
> Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
> 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue
> 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch
> 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl
> 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red
> pethier [at] comcast [dot] net
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
> http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
> http://www.mnautox.com

From terryrs at comcast.net  Sun Apr 15 07:24:52 2012
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2012 13:24:52 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Torque Wrench
In-Reply-To: <078f01cd1a86$9a0cea90$0601a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <1189887876.880115.1334496292878.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Hello, everyone.

My torque wrench is a half-inch Craftsman click type that is --dare I say-- thirty years old.  I've kept it zeroed out and stored appropriately, but worry that it may no longer be calibrated.  I'll need it in a couple of weeks when I begin reassembling the engine.

Where does one take such a beast so someone can poke a piece of wood in its mouth and make it say "AAHHHHH"?

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com  Sun Apr 15 10:12:40 2012
From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly)
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2012 09:12:40 -0700
Subject: [TR] Torque Wrench
In-Reply-To: <1189887876.880115.1334496292878.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <078f01cd1a86$9a0cea90$0601a8c0@randall>
	<1189887876.880115.1334496292878.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <001801cd1b22$9596f9f0$c0c4edd0$@rr.com>

It will probably cost as much to get the calibration checked as it would be
for a new one. Although I'm not sure how closely calibrated it needs to be?
It may be fine with +/- 10%. That wide a swing on the head bolts only puts
115 lbs on the bolts/nuts, which surely will take that. The place to worry
about is into aluminum, but using a 1/2in drive wrench is not a tool to use
here.

Johnnie

> Hello, everyone.
> 
> My torque wrench is a half-inch Craftsman click type that is --dare I
> say-- thirty years old.  I've kept it zeroed out and stored
> appropriately, but worry that it may no longer be calibrated.  I'll
> need it in a couple of weeks when I begin reassembling the engine.
> 
> Where does one take such a beast so someone can poke a piece of wood in
> its mouth and make it say "AAHHHHH"?
> 
> Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
> New Hampshire

From tcheat2002 at yahoo.com  Sun Apr 15 11:28:40 2012
From: tcheat2002 at yahoo.com (Tim Cheatham)
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2012 12:28:40 -0500
Subject: [TR] Torque Wrench
In-Reply-To: <001801cd1b22$9596f9f0$c0c4edd0$@rr.com>
References: <078f01cd1a86$9a0cea90$0601a8c0@randall>
	<1189887876.880115.1334496292878.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<001801cd1b22$9596f9f0$c0c4edd0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <E7F32491-F877-45F7-98B0-A83FB8341921@yahoo.com>

Here are a few ways to do it at home:

http://shopngarage.com/2011/11/torque-wrenches-part-ii-calibration/

I purchased a Craftsman digital torque adapter a couple of years ago and use
it to check mine periodically. I see them on eBay from time to time.

Tim

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 15, 2012, at 11:12 AM, "John & Pat Donnelly" <pdonnel1 at san.rr.com>
wrote:

> It will probably cost as much to get the calibration checked as it would be
> for a new one. Although I'm not sure how closely calibrated it needs to be?
> It may be fine with +/- 10%. That wide a swing on the head bolts only puts
> 115 lbs on the bolts/nuts, which surely will take that. The place to worry
> about is into aluminum, but using a 1/2in drive wrench is not a tool to use
> here.
>
> Johnnie
>
>> Hello, everyone.
>>
>> My torque wrench is a half-inch Craftsman click type that is --dare I
>> say-- thirty years old.  I've kept it zeroed out and stored
>> appropriately, but worry that it may no longer be calibrated.  I'll
>> need it in a couple of weeks when I begin reassembling the engine.
>>
>> Where does one take such a beast so someone can poke a piece of wood in
>> its mouth and make it say "AAHHHHH"?
>>
>> Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
>> New Hampshire
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tcheat2002 at yahoo.com

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Apr 15 12:32:27 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2012 11:32:27 -0700
Subject: [TR] Torque Wrench
In-Reply-To: <E7F32491-F877-45F7-98B0-A83FB8341921@yahoo.com>
References: <078f01cd1a86$9a0cea90$0601a8c0@randall><1189887876.880115.1334496292878.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net><001801cd1b22$9596f9f0$c0c4edd0$@rr.com>
	<E7F32491-F877-45F7-98B0-A83FB8341921@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <084a01cd1b36$1c88e550$0601a8c0@randall>

> I purchased a Craftsman digital torque adapter a couple of 
> years ago and use
> it to check mine periodically. I see them on eBay from time to time.

Just curious, how do you calibrate the torque adapter?  Digital or not, it
is still measuring the deflection of a spring, just like most torque
wrenches do.

I couldn't even find an accuracy spec on the Sears site, but the
instructions for the one Eastwood sells say "Periodic re-calibration may be
necessary to maintain accuracy.".

-- Randall  

From tedtsimx at bright.net  Sun Apr 15 12:48:35 2012
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2012 14:48:35 -0400
Subject: [TR] Kasatner Cup t.shirt
Message-ID: <4F8B1803.4000103@bright.net>

Hello lists, again. We sent out an email about doing another run of 
Kastner Cup t.shirts.  The email lists strip photos from emails so a 
friend was good enough to post the pictures on his personal web site. A 
link to the pictures is attached along with a copy of our original 
email. Thanks for your time and  indulgence. Ted

http://littlebluespitfire.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=6612

Hello lists. Triumph is the featured marque at the upcoming Walter Mitty
vintage races at Road Atlanta. This event is also featuring a special
all Triumph race and the Grand Marshall is "Kas"Kastner. Kas was the
founder and head of the US Triumph Competition Department.  He wrote the
Competition Preparation manuals that served as the bible for generations
of Triumph racers.   "FOT", group of TR racers, along with Kas started
the Kastner Cup award 10 years ago. Awarded by Kas and to his own
personal criteria, this is a prestigious honor for any TR racer.
We did a production run Kastner Cup T.shirts for the FOT group. The
response has been excellent and another, small run of shirts is being
considered.  Some of the proceeds go to FOT to fund things like helping
with travel expense for honored guests, promoting FOT event involvement
and more.



So, if there is enough interest, we will do an additional print run of
shirts. This is a one time only print run.  Due to the number we printed
on the first run, we were able to keep the cost down. Shirt prices will
be higher than previous run due to lower volume and set-up expense. We
need a minimum 36 piece order to do another run.  Prices will be $15 for
Small - X-Large; $17 for XXL.  If we have eough orders to run 48 or
more, price goes down by $1 per shirt.  Pictures of  shirt are attached.
If the images ares stripped, plesae email me and we will send directly
to you.


There is a possibility that we could have them done in time for pick at
Road Atlanta.  A go/no go date for ordering is close of business this
coming Wednesday, April 18. Please call or email with your order.
All contact information is on the signature line of this email.

Thanks for your time and support. Ted




Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St. Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.) Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada) Tech/ Gen. 
Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022

From tcheat2002 at yahoo.com  Sun Apr 15 13:44:33 2012
From: tcheat2002 at yahoo.com (Tim Cheatham)
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2012 14:44:33 -0500
Subject: [TR] Torque Wrench
In-Reply-To: <084a01cd1b36$1c88e550$0601a8c0@randall>
References: <078f01cd1a86$9a0cea90$0601a8c0@randall>
	<1189887876.880115.1334496292878.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<001801cd1b22$9596f9f0$c0c4edd0$@rr.com>
	<E7F32491-F877-45F7-98B0-A83FB8341921@yahoo.com>
	<084a01cd1b36$1c88e550$0601a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <7CD95463-1E5A-457C-91F9-B091133CAE9C@yahoo.com>

I haven't done it yet, Randle. When my torque wrench and it agree I've assumed
that we are close enough. If I build up a new engine I might send my wrenches
in for recalibration, just to be safe.

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 15, 2012, at 1:32 PM, "Randall" <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

>> I purchased a Craftsman digital torque adapter a couple of
>> years ago and use
>> it to check mine periodically. I see them on eBay from time to time.
>
> Just curious, how do you calibrate the torque adapter?  Digital or not, it
> is still measuring the deflection of a spring, just like most torque
> wrenches do.
>
> I couldn't even find an accuracy spec on the Sears site, but the
> instructions for the one Eastwood sells say "Periodic re-calibration may be
> necessary to maintain accuracy.".
>
> -- Randall
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tcheat2002 at yahoo.com

From areich at telus.net  Sun Apr 15 14:55:03 2012
From: areich at telus.net (Allan Reich)
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2012 13:55:03 -0700
Subject: [TR] Replacing standard tranny with J-type in 1975 TR6
Message-ID: <4F8B35A7.8050508@telus.net>

I recently removed the tranny from my 1975 TR6, had a J-type overdrive 
installed on it by an expert and now have the job of trying to put it 
back in.
The J-type has different mounting bolts, so removed the old mounting 
bracket from the transmission mount and mounted the bracket onto the 
J-type. This was done on the J-type before trying to install in car .. 
it was tight fit but all went well.
The frame mounting bracket has two sets of bolt holes on each side, and 
the body has three sets of holes on each side. The bracket was in the 
forward two set of holes for the non-OD tranny, but after measuring, I 
moved that bracket back to the two back set of holes. Things looked very 
tight, so I mounted that bracket to the frame, with the rubber shocks in 
the bracket loosely, dreaming that I would drop the tranny in, wiggle 
the rubber shocks and the job would be done.
When I removed the tranny, I just disconnected the driveshaft and let it 
rest in the tunnel.
Now as I tried to put the J-type back in the car, I can't seem to get 
around the driveshaft flange.
Questions:
Should the frame mounting bracket be moved to the back set of holes?
Can I get the tranny in with the rubber shocks loosely mounted?
Do I need to remove the exhaust system and the drive shaft before 
attempting to get the J-type in?
Anybody in Vancouver (Canada) available to help?
Allan Reich
Vancouver, Canada
1975 TR6 - CF30255U

From JPayne at ThorCon.net  Sun Apr 15 16:38:16 2012
From: JPayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne)
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2012 22:38:16 +0000
Subject: [TR] Gas Analyzer Diagnostic Tool
Message-ID: <5891B364A7C3594B9466304B59E65B1C13B9F15C@ex1mbx01.onthenetoffice.com>

My club (BACLV.org) is considering investing in an exhaust gas analyzer.

It is my understanding that some of these units can be utilized while the car
is in motion, so that we can check gasses under load while underway, thus
giving a much better indication of carb tune than at idle or when testing
under no load at various RPM's.

Anybody have any familiarity with these types of tools that could make
recommendations as to both the usefulness of this and / or which units are any
good?


Jonas Payne
PBR
Cell:   (702) 358-5084

From tom628 at verizon.net  Sun Apr 15 16:50:16 2012
From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note)
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2012 18:50:16 -0400
Subject: [TR] Torque Wrench
References: <078f01cd1a86$9a0cea90$0601a8c0@randall>
	<1189887876.880115.1334496292878.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<001801cd1b22$9596f9f0$c0c4edd0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <22A48362D8964DC18AA59FA7DF857A9B@Toms>

I took my torque wrench to a calibration lab, and got table of torque 
accuracy at several points across the range, and a cert. of calibration.
I believe it cost $20.
Worth it, IMO.
Tom

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John & Pat Donnelly" <pdonnel1 at san.rr.com>
To: <terryrs at comcast.net>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2012 12:12 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Torque Wrench


> It will probably cost as much to get the calibration checked as it would 
> be
> for a new one. Although I'm not sure how closely calibrated it needs to 
> be?
> It may be fine with +/- 10%. That wide a swing on the head bolts only puts
> 115 lbs on the bolts/nuts, which surely will take that. The place to worry
> about is into aluminum, but using a 1/2in drive wrench is not a tool to 
> use
> here.
>
> Johnnie
>
>> Hello, everyone.
>>
>> My torque wrench is a half-inch Craftsman click type that is --dare I
>> say-- thirty years old.  I've kept it zeroed out and stored
>> appropriately, but worry that it may no longer be calibrated.  I'll
>> need it in a couple of weeks when I begin reassembling the engine.
>>
>> Where does one take such a beast so someone can poke a piece of wood in
>> its mouth and make it say "AAHHHHH"?
>>
>> Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
>> New Hampshire
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tom628 at verizon.net 

From dave at ranteer.com  Sun Apr 15 18:15:56 2012
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2012 19:15:56 -0500
Subject: [TR] Torque Wrench
In-Reply-To: <22A48362D8964DC18AA59FA7DF857A9B@Toms>
References: <078f01cd1a86$9a0cea90$0601a8c0@randall><1189887876.880115.1334496292878.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net><001801cd1b22$9596f9f0$c0c4edd0$@rr.com>
	<22A48362D8964DC18AA59FA7DF857A9B@Toms>
Message-ID: <48AEDFC0051948AD950A8544BF28CE96@ranteer.local>

word of the day:  metrology - the science of measurement

-----Original Message----- 
From: Tom Note 
Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2012 5:50 PM 
To: John & Pat Donnelly ; terryrs at comcast.net ; triumphs at autox.team.net 
Subject: Re: [TR] Torque Wrench 

I took my torque wrench to a calibration lab, and got table of torque 
accuracy at several points across the range, and a cert. of calibration.
I believe it cost $20.
Worth it, IMO.
Tom
\

From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Apr 15 18:50:53 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2012 18:50:53 -0600
Subject: [TR] Torque Wrench
In-Reply-To: <1189887876.880115.1334496292878.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1189887876.880115.1334496292878.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4F8B6CED.6020601@bradakis.com>

When I worry about my ancient Bonney wrench I fab up some sort
of adapter stack to compare it to one of my beam wrenches with
the pointer.  For years the click corresponds to the reading on the
beam wrench, given the range of reading error.  It would be nice to
have some sort of more formal verification, though.

mjb.

From fishplate at charter.net  Sun Apr 15 19:12:54 2012
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff)
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2012 21:12:54 -0400
Subject: [TR] Torque Wrench
In-Reply-To: <4F8B6CED.6020601@bradakis.com>
References: <1189887876.880115.1334496292878.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<4F8B6CED.6020601@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <4F8B7216.5030600@charter.net>

On 4/15/2012 8:50 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote:
> It would be nice to
> have some sort of more formal verification, though. 

You mean aside form a prodigious coolant leak because your head didn't 
get tightened properly?

From ptegler at verizon.net  Sun Apr 15 19:59:12 2012
From: ptegler at verizon.net (ptegler)
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2012 21:59:12 -0400
Subject: [TR] Gas Analyzer Diagnostic Tool
References: <5891B364A7C3594B9466304B59E65B1C13B9F15C@ex1mbx01.onthenetoffice.com>
Message-ID: <7B3E963164DC48589872685C548894BA@dragonlairii>

Jonas....

  The price range will boggle you.... the variety of sensors and systems out 
there.
A wide band is the only way to got for a mobile unit.
Personally I Tech Edge units in all my LBC's (two have EFI systems these 
days)
The 2J1 is my favorite for simplicity of operation.
www.wbo2.com
There are a bunch of the units out there as well. Everybody will have a 
favorite for various reasons.
My trial (tests) and tribulations with a variety of mfr's has led me back to 
Tech Edge time and time again.

If you do a tail pipe adapter, you need a heated sensor as the gasses are 
cool enough by the time they get to the tailpipe to effect accuracy big 
time.
Early on I did exactly what you are planning....  home brew tail pipe setup
http://www.teglerizer.com/fi/wbo2/index.html


Paul Tegler
ptegler at verizon.net
www.teglerizer.com
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jonas Payne" <JPayne at ThorCon.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2012 6:38 PM
Subject: [TR] Gas Analyzer Diagnostic Tool


> My club (BACLV.org) is considering investing in an exhaust gas analyzer.
>
> It is my understanding that some of these units can be utilized while the 
> car
> is in motion, so that we can check gasses under load while underway, thus
> giving a much better indication of carb tune than at idle or when testing
> under no load at various RPM's.
>
> Anybody have any familiarity with these types of tools that could make
> recommendations as to both the usefulness of this and / or which units are 
> any
> good?
>
>
> Jonas Payne
> PBR
> Cell:   (702) 358-5084
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler at verizon.net

From aljlthomson at charter.net  Mon Apr 16 07:05:41 2012
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson)
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2012 09:05:41 -0400
Subject: [TR] Torque Wrench
In-Reply-To: <1189887876.880115.1334496292878.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <078f01cd1a86$9a0cea90$0601a8c0@randall>
	<1189887876.880115.1334496292878.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <001101cd1bd1$a086dc40$e19494c0$@charter.net>

Terry - You could try a tool dealer or a NAPA store and see what they say.
Of course, you might get a deer-in-the headlights-look. I remember a device
that a local tech school had assembled for testing torque wrenches. They had
mounted a 2' diameter belt pulley on a low friction hub with a 1/2" or 5/8"
nut welded to the center of the hub. The hub spindle is horizontal so the
pulley is vertical.  A flexible cable was attached to the pulley with a hook
on the end of it for weights, similar to a balance beam type of scale you
would see in a feed and grain store. By adding weight to the hook at the end
of the cable, you could simulate, quite accurately, any given torque.
Several limitations: the effective diameter of the pulley must be 24" where
the cable is attached, the cable must hang vertically (gravity will take
care of that), and the torque wrench must be at a right angle to the
vertical cable. I think the way they used it was to set the wrench to a
value, hold the wrench in place on the pulley hub, and then add the
prescribed weight until the wrench either clicks or indicates the designated
torque. 
Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of terryrs at comcast.net
Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2012 9:25 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Torque Wrench

Hello, everyone.

My torque wrench is a half-inch Craftsman click type that is --dare I say--
thirty years old.  I've kept it zeroed out and stored appropriately, but
worry that it may no longer be calibrated.  I'll need it in a couple of
weeks when I begin reassembling the engine.

Where does one take such a beast so someone can poke a piece of wood in its
mouth and make it say "AAHHHHH"?

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net

From timipurdy at citlink.net  Mon Apr 16 12:27:20 2012
From: timipurdy at citlink.net (Tim Purdy)
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2012 11:27:20 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 Differential
Message-ID: <0A86A87F-2216-40B1-86C3-F4A2D47E937E@citlink.net>

My '64 TR4 is in the shop, most everything done on the differential except for
one part, which they guy has not been able to find, which he calls it a
"locating pin" that more or less holds everything together. He had talked with
Moss Motors, and they said it would have to come from the UK, but nothing has
materialized. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Tim Purdy

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Apr 16 12:55:28 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2012 11:55:28 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 Differential
In-Reply-To: <0A86A87F-2216-40B1-86C3-F4A2D47E937E@citlink.net>
References: <0A86A87F-2216-40B1-86C3-F4A2D47E937E@citlink.net>
Message-ID: <0c7d01cd1c02$7f501740$7df045c0$@rr.com>

> which he calls it a
> "locating pin" that more or less holds everything together.

Is that Stanpart 111215?  TRF shows them in stock, or I could probably find
a good used one.
Here's a shot of me removing the pin I think you are talking about.  (Stag
diff, but that pin is the same)

http://goo.gl/5ngq4

-- Randall 

From grandfatherjim at gmail.com  Mon Apr 16 15:23:21 2012
From: grandfatherjim at gmail.com (Jim Wallace)
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2012 17:23:21 -0400
Subject: [TR] Mosport June 15-17
Message-ID: <CAA43NTvra+=T_FM6RjCn7V1ty_Ndg_v+BKsTGc3HDvV=Mz20rg@mail.gmail.com>

Vintage racing at Mosport - anyone from here attending?
It's our plan, provided the old camper is up to the trip. Presently spewing
too much oil (with engine off!) to go too far but hopefully will be
remedied by then.
Jim

From sportycars at britishcarweek.org  Mon Apr 16 16:01:49 2012
From: sportycars at britishcarweek.org (sportycars at britishcarweek.org)
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2012 18:01:49 -0400
Subject: [TR] Spitfire 1500 Crank
Message-ID: <9375761EAC144B77ACB73F845620CA8F@grandb59e83be9>

Hello,

I'm helping a friend search for a good replacement crankshaft for his Spitfire
1500 engine. If anyone on this list has any leads for us, please contact me at
sportycars at britishcarweek.org

Thanks!

Scott Helms
www.britishcarweek.org
BTW - Please remember British Car Week and the British Car Week National Meet
next month.....

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Mon Apr 16 16:22:58 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2012 15:22:58 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 windshield stanchions
In-Reply-To: <9375761EAC144B77ACB73F845620CA8F@grandb59e83be9>
References: <9375761EAC144B77ACB73F845620CA8F@grandb59e83be9>
Message-ID: <1334614978.59805.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

looking at the windshield stanchions for the pre 60000 and post 60000.
it
looks to me that the pre 60k would work on the post 60k
i have one lh pre 60k
and one rh post 60k stanchion.
i have both pre and post stanchion guide plates
and have slid them onto the respective stanchions and can see no difference.
except that the back of the pre 60k stanchions are machined for the lock
washer of the dzus fastener.
am i missing something?
Frank 

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Mon Apr 16 16:50:27 2012
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2012 18:50:27 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 windshield stanchions
In-Reply-To: <1334614978.59805.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <9375761EAC144B77ACB73F845620CA8F@grandb59e83be9>
	<1334614978.59805.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <E8B4DEEB018E4D3ABEDBFC865F94B651@DCH6RFC1>

The later models have screws in place of the Dzus fasteners.

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Fisher
Sent: Monday, April 16, 2012 6:23 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 windshield stanchions

looking at the windshield stanchions for the pre 60000 and post 60000.
it
looks to me that the pre 60k would work on the post 60k
i have one lh pre 60k
and one rh post 60k stanchion.
i have both pre and post stanchion guide plates
and have slid them onto the respective stanchions and can see no difference.
except that the back of the pre 60k stanchions are machined for the lock
washer of the dzus fastener.
am i missing something?
Frank 

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Mon Apr 16 17:04:17 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2012 16:04:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 windshield stanchions
In-Reply-To: <E8B4DEEB018E4D3ABEDBFC865F94B651@DCH6RFC1>
References: <9375761EAC144B77ACB73F845620CA8F@grandb59e83be9>
	<1334614978.59805.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
	<E8B4DEEB018E4D3ABEDBFC865F94B651@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <1334617457.37945.YahooMailNeo@web120201.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

yes i appreciate the early dzus and later screw.
but as the slot in the guide
plates are the same dimension and will fit both, screw hole size is
irrelevant. no? 

From: Andrew Uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net>
To: 'Frank
Fisher' <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>; triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Monday, April
16, 2012 3:50 PM
Subject: RE: [TR] TR2/3 windshield stanchions

The later
models have screws in place of the Dzus fasteners.

Andrew Uprichard
-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Fisher
Sent:
Monday, April 16, 2012 6:23 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR2/3
windshield stanchions

looking at the windshield stanchions for the pre 60000
and post 60000.
it
looks to me that the pre 60k would work on the post 60k
i
have one lh pre 60k
and one rh post 60k stanchion.
i have both pre and post
stanchion guide plates
and have slid them onto the respective stanchions and
can see no difference.
except that the back of the pre 60k stanchions are
machined for the lock
washer of the dzus fastener.
am i missing something?
Frank 

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net
the head of the screw on both dzus and screw is the same and they both fit
into a recessed hole. so the head is providing back to front stability and the
slot provides up/down stability.
no?
what im looking for is that an early dzus
will fit a later screw type?
or a later screw with the hole drilled out will
fit an early dzus?

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Mon Apr 16 17:07:21 2012
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2012 19:07:21 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Mosport June 15-17
Message-ID: <13e1f.6f26b78.3cbe0029@aol.com>

I definitely plan to be there. Would not miss it for anything.
 
Tim
 
 
 
In a message dated 16/04/2012 5:25:55 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
grandfatherjim at gmail.com writes:

Vintage  racing at Mosport - anyone from here attending?
It's our plan, provided the  old camper is up to the trip. Presently spewing
too much oil (with engine  off!) to go too far but hopefully will be
remedied by  then.
Jim

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:  
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/kingscreektrees at aol.com

From bill_beecher at flash.net  Mon Apr 16 17:14:17 2012
From: bill_beecher at flash.net (bill_beecher at flash.net)
Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2012 18:14:17 -0500
Subject: [TR] LBCCo Mystery Car?
Message-ID: <09ED47EBE6A848DDA49813C6D79AE6D2@bboffice>

Anyone I.D. the nice looking white roadster, circa 1940s, in this week's
LBCCo email?
Bill

From carlsereda at aol.com  Tue Apr 17 12:29:21 2012
From: carlsereda at aol.com (Carl Sereda)
Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2012 14:29:21 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 5, Issue 169
In-Reply-To: <mailman.17.1334685604.31037.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.17.1334685604.31037.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8CEEADF2453B757-1238-F49F@webmail-d159.sysops.aol.com>

Hi Tim,
It's just a short steel pin that has friction fit but may need to be 'staked
in' (edges of hole pinged with nail punch) after pin inserted.. One time, my
unstaked pin (diagnosed later) dropped out on me at a stop light allowing the
planet gear cross shaft to slip out locking up my differential - the only time
this car was ever towed home. Seems to me a good quality nail (about 1/8th
diameter), drill shaft, or steel rod, etc.  cut to fit, would do the job, and
'staked in' if this pin goes into place without enough of a friction fit.
First step as Randall mentioned though - call TRF!
Good luck,
Carl

'63 TR4 since '74


My '64 TR4 is in the shop, most everything done on the differential except
for
one part, which they guy has not been able to find, which he calls it a
"locating pin" that more or less holds everything together. He had talked
with
Moss Motors, and they said it would have to come from the UK, but nothing has
materialized. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Tim Purdy

From Michael.Mack at redcross.org  Tue Apr 17 14:19:32 2012
From: Michael.Mack at redcross.org (Mack, Michael (Rochester))
Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2012 20:19:32 +0000
Subject: [TR] Sluggish Overdrive take-up
Message-ID: <6A6C6BB6A374144385E5E3CF3864B545061495D6@BY2PRD0410MB377.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>

This question probably pertains to all Triumphs with Overdrive units.
I recently replaced the Clutch in my  79 Spitfire with an AP 3 piece kit.
While I had the tranny and O/D out, I replaced the tranny oil with 90w GL1
Ford Tractor oil.  I was trying to stay away from GL5 oils that would eat the
copper/brass pieces in my J Type O/D unit.
Now that it's all back together it shifts nicely, but the electronic O/D
engages with a delay or not at all.  It disengages sluggishly too.  I tested
the solenoid with a hot wire directly to it and it clicks each time.  I
cleaned up the bullet connectors on the wiring also.

What do you think is causing the lag to engage the OD?  Wrong oil? Gremlins?

Thanks,
Mike Mack  Rochester, NY
79 Spitfire
80 TR8 DHC FI
70 GT6
73 Stag

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Apr 17 15:13:51 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2012 14:13:51 -0700
Subject: [TR] Sluggish Overdrive take-up
In-Reply-To: <6A6C6BB6A374144385E5E3CF3864B545061495D6@BY2PRD0410MB377.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
References: <6A6C6BB6A374144385E5E3CF3864B545061495D6@BY2PRD0410MB377.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <0e1a01cd1cde$fd68e580$f83ab080$@rr.com>

> What do you think is causing the lag to engage the OD?  Wrong oil?
> Gremlins?

The latter would be my guess.  I'd try cleaning the screens (both of them)
and the dashpot/relief valve.  Fortunately with a J-type, they should be
accessible from under the car, no need to pull the unit again.  But you'll
probably want to have a spare gasket on hand for the sump plate.

-- Randall 

From guy at genfiniti.com  Tue Apr 17 20:57:13 2012
From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins)
Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2012 21:57:13 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Advance Created Noise
Message-ID: <AA3BC698-2D64-41D4-9E8A-92E5A72EB162@genfiniti.com>

All,

I need some help and advice for an issue that has resurfaced after installing
a freshly rebuilt dizzy.

When the mechanical advance kicks in (I disconnected the vacuum advance)
around 2200 rpm, I hear a very noticeable buzzing/rattling noise.
This not only happens when advanced "up" (low to high RPM), but also when
stepping "down" (high to low RPM).
However, the engine suffers no performance loss, and there appear to be no
other symptoms.

This was happening straight away after I got the car on the road last
September, with a brand new pertronix dizzy.
When the rotor from it broke, I sent it back to Pertronix, and dropped in my
original Lucas 25D, and the sound went away.
I had the Lucas rebuilt, put it back in, and the sound is back.

Certainly this can't be normal, so something must be amiss.
Any suggestions?



Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Wed Apr 18 12:28:52 2012
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 14:28:52 -0400
Subject: [TR] tr4 brake riddle
Message-ID: <CANhzkeNYGiHF4xc+LfGF4zoOPiXZ3jCmUZFQpDLvH6v_4JX0JA@mail.gmail.com>

Just started digging into a brake issue. I thought I'd share the symptom
and see who comes up with the winning diagnosis.

Thought it was a broken spring in the master cylinder and it's not.

Brake pedal would go halfway to the floor before engaging. Rear brakes are
adjusted correctly and it takes 2 clicks on the brake handle to get the car
to hold firm.

opened up the master cylinder and the spring is intact and I dont see any
scoring on the bore. Since it's out I'll rebuild it -  but I don't see that
it really needs it.

What else could it be?

Thanks

Chris

From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Wed Apr 18 12:54:16 2012
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (jerryvv at roadrunner.com)
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 14:54:16 -0400
Subject: [TR] tr4 brake riddle
In-Reply-To: <CANhzkeNYGiHF4xc+LfGF4zoOPiXZ3jCmUZFQpDLvH6v_4JX0JA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20120418185416.HM381.67755.root@cdptpa-web25-z02>

Chris, there is a lot of lost motion in the linkage. The clevis pins can wear as well as the holes they go thru on the pedal box as well as the Master Cylinder itself. By the time that lost motion gets to your foot on the pedal it can be significant. Some folks have welded up the holes and re-drilled them. So check the pins for wear.
JVV
---- Chris Simo <ccsimonsen at gmail.com> wrote: 
> Just started digging into a brake issue. I thought I'd share the symptom
> and see who comes up with the winning diagnosis.
> 
> Thought it was a broken spring in the master cylinder and it's not.
> 
> Brake pedal would go halfway to the floor before engaging. Rear brakes are
> adjusted correctly and it takes 2 clicks on the brake handle to get the car
> to hold firm.
> 
> opened up the master cylinder and the spring is intact and I dont see any
> scoring on the bore. Since it's out I'll rebuild it -  but I don't see that
> it really needs it.
> 
> What else could it be?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Chris
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jerryvv at roadrunner.com

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Wed Apr 18 13:11:32 2012
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 12:11:32 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Classic Car Prices
Message-ID: <1334776292.3628.YahooMailRC@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     Is it just me or have classic car prices peaked again? It seems like 2 or 3 
years ago I posted something to the list about how some Morgans had become 
available for under $10,000 and some Lotus Elan +2 driver's were dipping under 
$10K again. Now looking at bringatrailer.com or the Hemmings E-newletter I am 
shocked and dismayed by the asking prices of barn finds and restoration 
projects. Italian cars seem to be especially hyped. Morris Minor Travelers 
(little woody wagons) seem to be heading towards $20K for good ones. Porsche 
356's are ridiculous as are earlier 911's. Even old VW bugs seem to be going up. 
Maybe it is just inflation.
     I recently looked at a series 2 Jaguar E-type coupe for $10K. It had been 
rear-ended and poorly repaired (the whole shell was tweaked) and I passed.
     It seems to me that a TR3 or MGB is still the most bang for the buck out 
there.
     FWIW - miscellaneous ramblings from my desk at work.

     Bill in Tehachapi

From jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com  Wed Apr 18 13:55:26 2012
From: jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com (John Young)
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 12:55:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] tr4 brake riddle
In-Reply-To: <CANhzkeNYGiHF4xc+LfGF4zoOPiXZ3jCmUZFQpDLvH6v_4JX0JA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANhzkeNYGiHF4xc+LfGF4zoOPiXZ3jCmUZFQpDLvH6v_4JX0JA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1334778926.60497.YahooMailNeo@web181008.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

In addition to lost motion in the linkage, check the end play in the
crankshaft. (thrust washers).
The clutch has to push the crank forward to the
limit before it can begin to realease the clutch.
Easy measurement to make
with a dial gauge on a magnetic holder.

John Young NASS# 528
Indiana
'78
Spitfire
'66 Spitfire
'59 TR3A (being repaired after 37 yrs ownership)

From:
Chris Simo <ccsimonsen at gmail.com>
To: list Triumph <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2012 2:28 PM
Subject: [TR] tr4 brake riddle

Just
started digging into a brake issue. I thought I'd share the symptom
and see
who comes up with the winning diagnosis.

Thought it was a broken spring in
the master cylinder and it's not.

Brake pedal would go halfway to the floor
before engaging. Rear brakes are
adjusted correctly and it takes 2 clicks on
the brake handle to get the car
to hold firm.

opened up the master cylinder
and the spring is intact and I dont see any
scoring on the bore. Since it's
out I'll rebuild it -  but I don't see that
it really needs it.

What else
could it be?

Thanks

Chris

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com

From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Wed Apr 18 14:02:13 2012
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (jerryvv at roadrunner.com)
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 16:02:13 -0400
Subject: [TR] tr4 brake riddle
In-Reply-To: <1334778926.60497.YahooMailNeo@web181008.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20120418200214.HCR14.68135.root@cdptpa-web25-z02>

I forgot to ask. Does it pump up or is it half pedal all of the time? Half pedal standing still or while driving? A loose wheel bearing can cause pad knockback on the front disc's requiring a lot of pedal before contacting the rotor. Would happen while driving not always standing still since you'd have applied the brakes to stop your motion.
JVV
---- John Young <jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com> wrote: 
> In addition to lost motion in the linkage, check the end play in the
> crankshaft. (thrust washers).
> The clutch has to push the crank forward to the
> limit before it can begin to realease the clutch.
> Easy measurement to make
> with a dial gauge on a magnetic holder.
> 
> John Young NASS# 528
> Indiana
> '78
> Spitfire
> '66 Spitfire
> '59 TR3A (being repaired after 37 yrs ownership)
> 
> From:
> Chris Simo <ccsimonsen at gmail.com>
> To: list Triumph <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2012 2:28 PM
> Subject: [TR] tr4 brake riddle
> 
> Just
> started digging into a brake issue. I thought I'd share the symptom
> and see
> who comes up with the winning diagnosis.
> 
> Thought it was a broken spring in
> the master cylinder and it's not.
> 
> Brake pedal would go halfway to the floor
> before engaging. Rear brakes are
> adjusted correctly and it takes 2 clicks on
> the brake handle to get the car
> to hold firm.
> 
> opened up the master cylinder
> and the spring is intact and I dont see any
> scoring on the bore. Since it's
> out I'll rebuild it -  but I don't see that
> it really needs it.
> 
> What else
> could it be?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Chris

From trglory at verizon.net  Wed Apr 18 14:11:05 2012
From: trglory at verizon.net (Joseph Laurito)
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 16:11:05 -0400
Subject: [TR] Classic Car Prices
In-Reply-To: <1334776292.3628.YahooMailRC@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <1334776292.3628.YahooMailRC@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <004f01cd1d9f$62f2fe70$28d8fb50$@net>

Triumphs had a bump about 20 years ago when every old rust bucket was going
on a container ship bound for Belgium. Since then, prices have been flat.
This is a very good thing if you want to buy one .... not so good when you
want to sell. Stand your ground now and your great-grandchildren can smile
when the price passes $100K. Of course, by then that will buy you a tank of
gas.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2012 3:12 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] Classic Car Prices

     Is it just me or have classic car prices peaked again? It seems like 2
or 3 years ago I posted something to the list about how some Morgans had
become available for under $10,000 and some Lotus Elan +2 driver's were
dipping under $10K again. Now looking at bringatrailer.com or the Hemmings
E-newletter I am shocked and dismayed by the asking prices of barn finds and
restoration projects. Italian cars seem to be especially hyped. Morris Minor
Travelers (little woody wagons) seem to be heading towards $20K for good
ones. Porsche 356's are ridiculous as are earlier 911's. Even old VW bugs
seem to be going up. 
Maybe it is just inflation.
     I recently looked at a series 2 Jaguar E-type coupe for $10K. It had
been rear-ended and poorly repaired (the whole shell was tweaked) and I
passed.
     It seems to me that a TR3 or MGB is still the most bang for the buck
out there.
     FWIW - miscellaneous ramblings from my desk at work.

     Bill in Tehachapi

From gpr at key-men.com  Wed Apr 18 14:17:22 2012
From: gpr at key-men.com (George Richardson)
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 16:17:22 -0400
Subject: [TR] Classic Car Prices
In-Reply-To: <004f01cd1d9f$62f2fe70$28d8fb50$@net>
References: <1334776292.3628.YahooMailRC@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<004f01cd1d9f$62f2fe70$28d8fb50$@net>
Message-ID: <4F8F2152.9030506@key-men.com>

By then there won't be any gas.

George Richardson
Key Men - Keys for Classics
www.key-men.com


On 4/18/2012 4:11 PM, Joseph Laurito wrote:
> Triumphs had a bump about 20 years ago when every old rust bucket was going
> on a container ship bound for Belgium. Since then, prices have been flat.
> This is a very good thing if you want to buy one .... not so good when you
> want to sell. Stand your ground now and your great-grandchildren can smile
> when the price passes $100K. Of course, by then that will buy you a tank of
> gas.
>
> Joe
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer
> Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2012 3:12 PM
> To: Triumphs
> Subject: [TR] Classic Car Prices
>
>       Is it just me or have classic car prices peaked again? It seems like 2
> or 3 years ago I posted something to the list about how some Morgans had
> become available for under $10,000 and some Lotus Elan +2 driver's were
> dipping under $10K again. Now looking at bringatrailer.com or the Hemmings
> E-newletter I am shocked and dismayed by the asking prices of barn finds and
> restoration projects. Italian cars seem to be especially hyped. Morris Minor
> Travelers (little woody wagons) seem to be heading towards $20K for good
> ones. Porsche 356's are ridiculous as are earlier 911's. Even old VW bugs
> seem to be going up.
> Maybe it is just inflation.
>       I recently looked at a series 2 Jaguar E-type coupe for $10K. It had
> been rear-ended and poorly repaired (the whole shell was tweaked) and I
> passed.
>       It seems to me that a TR3 or MGB is still the most bang for the buck
> out there.
>       FWIW - miscellaneous ramblings from my desk at work.
>
>       Bill in Tehachapi
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/gpr at key-men.com

From wbeech at flash.net  Wed Apr 18 16:10:59 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 17:10:59 -0500
Subject: [TR] tr4 brake riddle
In-Reply-To: <CANhzkeNYGiHF4xc+LfGF4zoOPiXZ3jCmUZFQpDLvH6v_4JX0JA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CANhzkeNYGiHF4xc+LfGF4zoOPiXZ3jCmUZFQpDLvH6v_4JX0JA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <9EAA409FD17E4982982FCDC10AFDA818@bboffice>

I would re-bleed the brakes just to eliminate that possibility but since you
have the M/C off you will be doing this next.

Check the adjustment on the rod from the M/C to be sure you are getting all
the travel you need from the pedal.  After you have re-built the M/C and
bled the system, maybe lengthen it out just a little and see if it helps.

Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS30766L "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Hello, my name is Bill and I own an old British car.  Now...What are the
next 11 steps?"




-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Simo
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2012 1:29 PM
To: list Triumph
Subject: [TR] tr4 brake riddle

Just started digging into a brake issue. I thought I'd share the symptom and
see who comes up with the winning diagnosis.

Thought it was a broken spring in the master cylinder and it's not.

Brake pedal would go halfway to the floor before engaging. Rear brakes are
adjusted correctly and it takes 2 clicks on the brake handle to get the car
to hold firm.

opened up the master cylinder and the spring is intact and I dont see any
scoring on the bore. Since it's out I'll rebuild it -  but I don't see that
it really needs it.

What else could it be?

Thanks

Chris

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From drew at graybealdesign.com  Wed Apr 18 23:29:43 2012
From: drew at graybealdesign.com (Graybeal Design)
Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 22:29:43 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR-6 Hardtop to give away
Message-ID: <58851018294B43E3ACB189A907E925B9@homemade>

I have a Snugtop TR-6 top to give away. No place to store it. I'm not into
shipping it so you'll have to be local enough to Pasadena to pick it up
yourself. It's in decent shape. Email me at drewssix at gmail.com. Thanks, Drew

From team.net at daveola.com  Thu Apr 19 03:05:39 2012
From: team.net at daveola.com (David Ljung Madison)
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 02:05:39 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A is finally back home
Message-ID: <E1SKnN9-00051Q-Cl@davesource.com>

After over two years at various body shops waiting to get repaired 
(after separate, multiple hit-and-run accidents), my TR3A is finally home!

The body looks beautiful, and will hopefully stay that way (though 
the last body/paint job seemed to make it a target, yeesh), but after
sitting for so long and after being pulled apart, the poor thing
has a number of issues:

1) A rod is knocking in the lower end and the engine will need overhaul
   replacement soon. :(
2) Front end is in bad shape (as it was before the body work) - much 
   needs replacing.
3) Some leaks in the cooling system to fix
4) Needs a tuneup

Oh well.

Anyone have suggestions for engine overhaul and/or replacement?

Not to mention that I need to start looking into the rack and pinion
conversion.

Unfortunately I have so little time for such projects right now, but
at least she's home and running!


Dave

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dave Ljung Madison          http://GetDave.com/                415.341.5555
--------- It's not whether you win or lose.  It's whether you win ---------

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Thu Apr 19 10:57:50 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 09:57:50 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] the Mitty
In-Reply-To: <58851018294B43E3ACB189A907E925B9@homemade>
References: <58851018294B43E3ACB189A907E925B9@homemade>
Message-ID: <1334854670.15345.YahooMailNeo@web120205.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

sorry guys.
i spaced out during the discussions on who will be at the mitty and what the party arangemnts are!!!! 
beer/girls/gambling...?
is there an autox meet?
Frank 

From ptegler at verizon.net  Thu Apr 19 11:35:03 2012
From: ptegler at verizon.net (ptegler at verizon.net)
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 12:35:03 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] the Mitty
Message-ID: <780580379.350160.1334856903670.JavaMail.root@vznit170070>

/local/mailman/lynxXXXXBB2I8P: Permission denied

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Thu Apr 19 12:00:16 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 11:00:16 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] the Mitty
In-Reply-To: <780580379.350160.1334856903670.JavaMail.root@vznit170070>
References: <780580379.350160.1334856903670.JavaMail.root@vznit170070>
Message-ID: <1334858416.75747.YahooMailNeo@web120205.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

ill be flying southwest airlines in an easterly direction from California.
ill find you all.
Frank
 

________________________________
 From: "ptegler at verizon.net" <ptegler at verizon.net>
To: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com 
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2012 10:35 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] the Mitty
  

..stop by the GRM booth. In the VIP parking area you'll see a couple of us (with Spitfires) there
my FIS6, Mike Paserchia's all oroginal one owner '79 Spit from up above NYC (the one recently written up in Hemmings)
and Paul Geithner's beautiful BRG Spit (among others) 
all of us are coming down from the upper mid-atlantic region
Paul Tegler
ptegler at verizon.net
www.teglerizer.com

Apr 19, 2012 12:58:08 PM, yellowtr3 at yahoo.com wrote:

sorry guys.
>i spaced out during the discussions on who will be at the mitty and what the party arangemnts are!!!! 
>beer/girls/gambling...?
>is there an autox meet?
>Frank 

From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Thu Apr 19 12:00:51 2012
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (jerryvv at roadrunner.com)
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 14:00:51 -0400
Subject: [TR] LED lights
Message-ID: <20120419180051.SYYDB.74396.root@cdptpa-web25-z02>

List,
I'm having brain fade today. What is the name of the Company who sells the LED bulbs for our LBC's? What I need is a reference to the correct flasher to use with the LED's on my TR4A. I seem to recall seeing a recent post that there is a special flasher unit that needs to be used. Mine flash sometimes but not always and I'm thinking that it's the flasher unit. I only have LED's in the rear.
Thanks,
JVV

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Thu Apr 19 12:10:41 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 14:10:41 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] FRANK FISHER at the MITTY
Message-ID: <8CEEC6EDCD84FC6-16E4-38FD6@Webmail-d117.sysops.aol.com>

 Frank,

Come to the TRIUMPH PADDOCK. I will have something for you. I didnt know you
were coming.



Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Apr 19 13:06:05 2012
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 15:06:05 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] LED lights
Message-ID: <a3d5.1501bdff.3cc1bc1d@cs.com>

I'm drawing a blank, too, but Jim Thompson is the guy's name.

Just look for an electronic flasher at the parts store.

Dave

In a message dated 4/19/2012 1:04:19 PM Central Daylight Time, 
jerryvv at roadrunner.com writes: 
> List,
> I'm having brain fade today. What is the name of the Company who sells the 
> LED bulbs for our LBC's? What I need is a reference to the correct flasher 
> to use with the LED's on my TR4A. I seem to recall seeing a recent post 
> that there is a special flasher unit that needs to be used. Mine flash 
> sometimes but not always and I'm thinking that it's the flasher unit. I only have 
> LED's in the rear.

From dougfr2 at gmail.com  Thu Apr 19 13:07:14 2012
From: dougfr2 at gmail.com (Doug)
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 15:07:14 -0400
Subject: [TR] LED lights
In-Reply-To: <20120419180051.SYYDB.74396.root@cdptpa-web25-z02>
References: <20120419180051.SYYDB.74396.root@cdptpa-web25-z02>
Message-ID: <19D65089-12DA-48EE-B2B3-2D4CAA829075@gmail.com>

I have been getting my LED lighting for my TR6 from www.litezupp.com.  Look
them up.  They have quality light bulbs for both 1156 and 1157 based bulbs.
Also, they will work with you on any issues will the appropriate electronic
flasher.

Doug Fraser
Ocala, FL
1969 TR6


On Apr 19, 2012, at 2:00 PM, <jerryvv at roadrunner.com> wrote:

> List,
> I'm having brain fade today. What is the name of the Company who sells the
LED bulbs for our LBC's? What I need is a reference to the correct flasher to
use with the LED's on my TR4A. I seem to recall seeing a recent post that
there is a special flasher unit that needs to be used. Mine flash sometimes
but not always and I'm thinking that it's the flasher unit. I only have LED's
in the rear.
> Thanks,
> JVV
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dougfr2 at gmail.com

From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Thu Apr 19 13:34:04 2012
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (jerryvv at roadrunner.com)
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 15:34:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] LED Lights
Message-ID: <20120419193404.3XW04.74962.root@cdptpa-web25-z02>

List, 
 
Thanks to all who responded. I have the number and one is on it's way to me via 
NAPA 
 
For reference it's a EL-13L-1 
 
JVV

From aljlthomson at charter.net  Thu Apr 19 14:31:39 2012
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson)
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 16:31:39 -0400
Subject: [TR] LED lights
In-Reply-To: <20120419180051.SYYDB.74396.root@cdptpa-web25-z02>
References: <20120419180051.SYYDB.74396.root@cdptpa-web25-z02>
Message-ID: <002d01cd1e6b$6f142ea0$4d3c8be0$@charter.net>

Try http://www.litezupp.com/ 

Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of jerryvv at roadrunner.com
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2012 2:01 PM
To: triumphs: autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] LED lights

List,
I'm having brain fade today. What is the name of the Company who sells the
LED bulbs for our LBC's? What I need is a reference to the correct flasher
to use with the LED's on my TR4A. I seem to recall seeing a recent post that
there is a special flasher unit that needs to be used. Mine flash sometimes
but not always and I'm thinking that it's the flasher unit. I only have
LED's in the rear.
Thanks,
JVV

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Apr 19 17:03:51 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 16:03:51 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Advance Created Noise
In-Reply-To: <AA3BC698-2D64-41D4-9E8A-92E5A72EB162@genfiniti.com>
References: <AA3BC698-2D64-41D4-9E8A-92E5A72EB162@genfiniti.com>
Message-ID: <10fd01cd1e80$b057be80$11073b80$@rr.com>

Guy,
Someone else reported a similar noise, which turned out to be part-throttle
detonation caused by too much spark advance for the engine/fuel combination.

I'd try backing off the initial timing by about 10 degrees or so (by turning
the dizzy, not with the vernier), and see what effect that has.  The engine
won't run very well, but just keep it running with your toe and it won't
hurt anything.  If the noise disappears, then the issue is detonation.

-- Randall 

From dave at ranteer.com  Thu Apr 19 18:45:54 2012
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 19:45:54 -0500
Subject: [TR] LED lights
In-Reply-To: <a3d5.1501bdff.3cc1bc1d@cs.com>
References: <a3d5.1501bdff.3cc1bc1d@cs.com>
Message-ID: <DE30B784356E429BBDC440324AA66896@ranteer.local>

www.litezupp.com

jim and chris

-----Original Message----- 
From: Dave1massey at cs.com
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2012 2:06 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] LED lights

I'm drawing a blank, too, but Jim Thompson is the guy's name.

Just look for an electronic flasher at the parts store.

Dave

In a message dated 4/19/2012 1:04:19 PM Central Daylight Time,
jerryvv at roadrunner.com writes:
> List,
> I'm having brain fade today. What is the name of the Company who sells the
> LED bulbs for our LBC's? What I need is a reference to the correct flasher
> to use with the LED's on my TR4A. I seem to recall seeing a recent post
> that there is a special flasher unit that needs to be used. Mine flash
> sometimes but not always and I'm thinking that it's the flasher unit. I
> only have
> LED's in the rear. 

From spook01 at comcast.net  Thu Apr 19 19:48:33 2012
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 20:48:33 -0500
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?LED_lights?=
Message-ID: <mailman.3.1334886500.21478.triumphs@autox.team.net>

You may want to ask about the little flasher harness, too.  It makes the inside indicator work properly.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Dave" <dave at ranteer.com>
To: <Dave1massey at cs.com>, <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] LED lights
Date: Thu, Apr 19, 2012 19:45


www.litezupp.com

jim and chris

-----Original Message----- From: Dave1massey at cs.com
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2012 2:06 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] LED lights

I'm drawing a blank, too, but Jim Thompson is the guy's name.

Just look for an electronic flasher at the parts store.

Dave

In a message dated 4/19/2012 1:04:19 PM Central Daylight Time,
jerryvv at roadrunner.com writes:
> List,
> I'm having brain fade today. What is the name of the Company who sells the
> LED bulbs for our LBC's? What I need is a reference to the correct flasher
> to use with the LED's on my TR4A. I seem to recall seeing a recent post
> that there is a special flasher unit that needs to be used. Mine flash
> sometimes but not always and I'm thinking that it's the flasher unit. I
> only have
> LED's in the rear. 
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Thu Apr 19 19:56:47 2012
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 21:56:47 -0400
Subject: [TR] tr4 brake riddle
In-Reply-To: <9EAA409FD17E4982982FCDC10AFDA818@bboffice>
References: <CANhzkeNYGiHF4xc+LfGF4zoOPiXZ3jCmUZFQpDLvH6v_4JX0JA@mail.gmail.com>
	<9EAA409FD17E4982982FCDC10AFDA818@bboffice>
Message-ID: <CANhzkePedUbaShWc2Lq9VkTGJ5zXd1SRLzoF4tFUsSp=T9SSjA@mail.gmail.com>

Update. Cleaned the master cylinder. It was, for lack of a better term,
gunky. Gelatinous gobs in the works. Nothing rigid but gunk.

Front brake pads are in need of replacement. One is quite close to being
gone.

It looks like time for a wholesale brake refurb.  Been wanting to put those
Morgan rear brake cylinders in anyway ...
On Apr 18, 2012 6:11 PM, <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:

> I would re-bleed the brakes just to eliminate that possibility but since
> you
> have the M/C off you will be doing this next.
>
> Check the adjustment on the rod from the M/C to be sure you are getting all
> the travel you need from the pedal.  After you have re-built the M/C and
> bled the system, maybe lengthen it out just a little and see if it helps.
>
> Bill
>
> Bill Beecher
> '58 TR3A TS30766L "Tarbaby"
> www.triumphowners.com/1566
> '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
> "Hello, my name is Bill and I own an old British car.  Now...What are the
> next 11 steps?"
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Simo
> Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2012 1:29 PM
> To: list Triumph
> Subject: [TR] tr4 brake riddle
>
> Just started digging into a brake issue. I thought I'd share the symptom
> and
> see who comes up with the winning diagnosis.
>
> Thought it was a broken spring in the master cylinder and it's not.
>
> Brake pedal would go halfway to the floor before engaging. Rear brakes are
> adjusted correctly and it takes 2 clicks on the brake handle to get the car
> to hold firm.
>
> opened up the master cylinder and the spring is intact and I dont see any
> scoring on the bore. Since it's out I'll rebuild it -  but I don't see that
> it really needs it.
>
> What else could it be?
>
> Thanks
>
> Chris
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From spook01 at comcast.net  Thu Apr 19 20:15:48 2012
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 21:15:48 -0500
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?tr4_brake_riddle?=
Message-ID: <mailman.4.1334888129.21478.triumphs@autox.team.net>

That gunk is your rubber seals!  Time for a rebuild!

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Chris Simo" <ccsimonsen at gmail.com>
To: <wbeech at flash.net>
Cc: "list Triumph" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] tr4 brake riddle
Date: Thu, Apr 19, 2012 20:56


Update. Cleaned the master cylinder. It was, for lack of a better term,
gunky. Gelatinous gobs in the works. Nothing rigid but gunk.

Front brake pads are in need of replacement. One is quite close to being
gone.

It looks like time for a wholesale brake refurb.  Been wanting to put those
Morgan rear brake cylinders in anyway ...
On Apr 18, 2012 6:11 PM, <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:

> I would re-bleed the brakes just to eliminate that possibility but since
> you
> have the M/C off you will be doing this next.
>
> Check the adjustment on the rod from the M/C to be sure you are getting all
> the travel you need from the pedal.  After you have re-built the M/C and
> bled the system, maybe lengthen it out just a little and see if it helps.
>
> Bill
>
> Bill Beecher
> '58 TR3A TS30766L "Tarbaby"
> www.triumphowners.com/1566
> '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
> "Hello, my name is Bill and I own an old British car.  Now...What are the
> next 11 steps?"
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Simo
> Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2012 1:29 PM
> To: list Triumph
> Subject: [TR] tr4 brake riddle
>
> Just started digging into a brake issue. I thought I'd share the symptom
> and
> see who comes up with the winning diagnosis.
>
> Thought it was a broken spring in the master cylinder and it's not.
>
> Brake pedal would go halfway to the floor before engaging. Rear brakes are
> adjusted correctly and it takes 2 clicks on the brake handle to get the car
> to hold firm.
>
> opened up the master cylinder and the spring is intact and I dont see any
> scoring on the bore. Since it's out I'll rebuild it -  but I don't see that
> it really needs it.
>
> What else could it be?
>
> Thanks
>
> Chris
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Thu Apr 19 20:36:44 2012
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 19:36:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] more harness
Message-ID: <1334889404.58056.YahooMailNeo@web65508.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

I'm slowly working my way through installing wiring harness (tr-3) and have
received great help already from the list.  I have one concern left, and
that's when I finish and want to connect the battery and test the system.  I'm
afraid one little mistake I might have made could burn up the new harness or
even a small part of it.
Is there a safe way to test portions of it first or
does one just turn on the power and wait for possible smoke?  I've basically
been very careful about transferring the new wires to the old guages/switches
on the dash section and also using the old harness as a model to connect the
new wires to control box/fuse box and other parts; along with diligent
reviewing of a wiring diagram every step of the way.
I'm fairly confident
things will work out ok at the time of switching on but just wondered if
others who've "been there" have any advice on using the electrical system for
the first time.

thanks

gary n.

From wbeech at flash.net  Thu Apr 19 21:10:03 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 22:10:03 -0500
Subject: [TR] more harness
In-Reply-To: <1334889404.58056.YahooMailNeo@web65508.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <1334889404.58056.YahooMailNeo@web65508.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <46A2495EBE5F4F3BB3BB4242D8926939@bboffice>

Instead of the battery, hook up a 2amp charger to the system.  This will
give you enough power to check the smaller lights and other items.  Of
course you can't start it and the horns will just burp.

Another safety valve is to put in low amperage fuses 5 or 10 amp to start
with while you check things out.  Again, you might blow a fuse with your
headlights, but it should be let everything else run and still blow before
you cook the wires. 

Bill


Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS30766L "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Hello, my name is Bill and I own an old British car.  Now...What are the
next 11 steps?"


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary Nafziger
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2012 9:37 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] more harness

I'm slowly working my way through installing wiring harness (tr-3) and have
received great help already from the list.  I have one concern left, and
that's when I finish and want to connect the battery and test the system.
I'm afraid one little mistake I might have made could burn up the new
harness or even a small part of it.
Is there a safe way to test portions of it first or does one just turn on
the power and wait for possible smoke?  I've basically been very careful
about transferring the new wires to the old guages/switches on the dash
section and also using the old harness as a model to connect the new wires
to control box/fuse box and other parts; along with diligent reviewing of a
wiring diagram every step of the way.
I'm fairly confident
things will work out ok at the time of switching on but just wondered if
others who've "been there" have any advice on using the electrical system
for the first time.

thanks

gary n.

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Apr 20 05:39:34 2012
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2012 07:39:34 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] LED lights
Message-ID: <692e.5694ea40.3cc2a4f6@cs.com>

In a message dated 4/19/2012 7:45:45 PM Central Daylight Time, 
dave at ranteer.com writes: 
> www.litezupp.com
> 
That's it.  I've bought mine from Jim directly while at a gathering such as 
VTR.  I guess they picked a catchy name so that we would all remember it.  
Didn't work on me but it worked for the rest of you guys.  Guess I'll go 
back to my rockin' chair.

Dave

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Apr 20 06:04:01 2012
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2012 08:04:01 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] more harness
Message-ID: <7076.5bca340.3cc2aab1@cs.com>

The trick I used when I checked out the TR3 is I connected each circuit to 
the battery via a spare headlamp.  If it is a short to ground the bulb will 
shine with full brightness.  If it is working properly the bulb will glow a 
little, a fair amount or not at all depending on the load.  

Leave out the fuses and connect the lead from the bulb to the load side of 
the fuse block and start testing away.  If you get a full bright headlamp 
start disconnecting lights or other loads.  But you can check your brake and 
tail lights just fine.  Also the other lights on the car.  For best results 
check one circuit at a time.

If you have a volt meter (which I highly recommend if you are going to work 
on any electrical system) you can check the voltage on the circuit.  If it 
is anything greater than a volt you won't burn up the harness when connect 
it up with the fuse.

Wiper motor: when I checked my wiper motor it moved briefly and stalled and 
the headlamp went bright.  But the fact that the motor moved at all told me 
it was OK but a voltmeter reading would have confirmed this if there was 
any doubt.

Dave

In a message dated 4/19/2012 9:36:52 PM Central Daylight Time, 
nafzigerg at yahoo.com writes: 
> I'm slowly working my way through installing wiring harness (tr-3) and 
> have
> received great help already from the list.  I have one concern left, and
> that's when I finish and want to connect the battery and test the system.  
> I'm
> afraid one little mistake I might have made could burn up the new harness 
> or
> even a small part of it.
> Is there a safe way to test portions of it first or
> does one just turn on the power and wait for possible smoke?  I've 
> basically
> been very careful about transferring the new wires to the old 
> guages/switches
> on the dash section and also using the old harness as a model to connect 
> the
> new wires to control box/fuse box and other parts; along with diligent
> reviewing of a wiring diagram every step of the way.
> I'm fairly confident
> things will work out ok at the time of switching on but just wondered if
> others who've "been there" have any advice on using the electrical system 
> for
> the first time.

From agraham at execulink.com  Fri Apr 20 09:49:32 2012
From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham)
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2012 11:49:32 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 SU Carbs
Message-ID: <4F91858C.9080400@execulink.com>

Hello List:
Need some of the collective wisdom of the List on this one. I have H4 SU 
carbs on my '2 and struggling with the common problems: leaking from the 
jet bodies, float levels, excessive richness, stiff choke actuation, 
etc. I installed kits in the winter & checked the throttle shafts and 
they were surprisingly a good fit.
I am contemplating having the carbs 'professionally' rebuilt to correct 
some of these issues and forking out the 4-5 hundred for the job. But 
before I commit, I am wondering if these early SU's can really be 
'fixed'. Given the design of the exposed jet SU can they really be made 
to be leak free? Even after a professional rebuild, will these carbs be 
good running and relatively leak free?
Just getting tired of the constant smell of gas in the shop and 
struggling with the carbs.
Thanks for any insight and advice on this one.
Angelo Graham

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Fri Apr 20 10:04:26 2012
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2012 11:04:26 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] LED lights
Message-ID: <716962.1847845.1334937866069.JavaMail.root@vznit170132>

Lights and Flasher will work properly if you replace only the rear lamps.
The load from the regular bulbs at the front (which to me were not as
necessary) is sufficient to activate the flasher/indicator.


Highly recommend them.  I still haven't completely installed my 3rd brake lamp
but when I do I'll post some photos similar to the backup light before and
after Litezupps....
http://s1001.photobucket.com/albums/af136/cfmtr3a/Information%20Items/?action
=view$t=LiteZuppBeforeAfter.jpg

Carl



On 04/19/12, spook01 at comcast.net wrote:

You may want to ask about the little flasher harness, too. It makes the inside
indicator work properly.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Dave" <dave at ranteer.com>
To: <Dave1massey at cs.com>, <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] LED lights
Date: Thu, Apr 19, 2012 19:45


www.litezupp.com

jim and chris

-----Original Message----- From: Dave1massey at cs.com
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2012 2:06 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] LED lights

I'm drawing a blank, too, but Jim Thompson is the guy's name.

Just look for an electronic flasher at the parts store.

Dave

In a message dated 4/19/2012 1:04:19 PM Central Daylight Time,
jerryvv at roadrunner.com writes:
> List,
> I'm having brain fade today. What is the name of the Company who sells the
> LED bulbs for our LBC's? What I need is a reference to the correct flasher
> to use with the LED's on my TR4A. I seem to recall seeing a recent post
> that there is a special flasher unit that needs to be used. Mine flash
> sometimes but not always and I'm thinking that it's the flasher unit. I
> only have
> LED's in the rear.
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net

From rbhendricks at me.com  Fri Apr 20 10:23:36 2012
From: rbhendricks at me.com (Robert Hendricks)
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2012 10:23:36 -0600
Subject: [TR] need door handle
Message-ID: <0E88370B-C0BC-495F-984D-1DAA098FE8CA@me.com>

Hello all. Im new to this mailing list. I hope this is an appropriate request. 

After a two year frame off complete restoration - the tub is at the paint shop and I discover that a piece in one of my doors is broken.  I am looking for the left exterior door handle with mechanism for a 1972 Triumph Spitfire.  A little plastic gizmo inside the mechanism is broken.  I am hoping to purchase a used handle so I can retrieve the broken piece from it.

Thanks

Bob

From spook01 at comcast.net  Fri Apr 20 10:33:08 2012
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2012 11:33:08 -0500
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?LED_lights?=
Message-ID: <mailman.6.1334939567.21478.triumphs@autox.team.net>

The inner indicator light did not work for me on the TR4 in spite of my replacing ONLY the rear lamps with LED's (and replacing the Lucas flasher with the recommend electronic flasher).
Litezupp recommended their wiring harness addition.
Once installed, the problem was solved; so you may need the harness even if you retain the old front incandescent bulbs.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Carl TR" <cfmtr3a at verizon.net>
To: <spook01 at comcast.net>, <dave at ranteer.com>, <Dave1massey at cs.com>, <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] LED lights
Date: Fri, Apr 20, 2012 11:04


Lights and Flasher will work properly if you replace only the rear lamps.   The load from the regular bulbs at the front (which to me were not as necessary) is sufficient to activate the flasher/indicator.
 

Highly recommend them.  I still haven't completely installed my 3rd brake lamp but when I do I'll post some photos similar to the backup light before and after Litezupps....  http://s1001.photobucket.com/albums/af136/cfmtr3a/Information%20Items/?action=viewo?=t=LiteZuppBeforeAfter.jpg 
 
Carl
 


On 04/19/12, spook01 at comcast.net wrote:

You may want to ask about the little flasher harness, too. It makes the inside indicator work properly.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Dave" <dave at ranteer.com>
To: <Dave1massey at cs.com>, <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] LED lights
Date: Thu, Apr 19, 2012 19:45


www.litezupp.com

jim and chris

-----Original Message----- From: Dave1massey at cs.com
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2012 2:06 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] LED lights

I'm drawing a blank, too, but Jim Thompson is the guy's name.

Just look for an electronic flasher at the parts store.

Dave

In a message dated 4/19/2012 1:04:19 PM Central Daylight Time,
jerryvv at roadrunner.com writes:
> List,
> I'm having brain fade today. What is the name of the Company who sells the
> LED bulbs for our LBC's? What I need is a reference to the correct flasher
> to use with the LED's on my TR4A. I seem to recall seeing a recent post
> that there is a special flasher unit that needs to be used. Mine flash
> sometimes but not always and I'm thinking that it's the flasher unit. I
> only have
> LED's in the rear. 
** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net

From wbeech at flash.net  Fri Apr 20 10:35:19 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2012 11:35:19 -0500
Subject: [TR] need door handle
In-Reply-To: <0E88370B-C0BC-495F-984D-1DAA098FE8CA@me.com>
References: <0E88370B-C0BC-495F-984D-1DAA098FE8CA@me.com>
Message-ID: <52D85F5806044415B0A4781A167CFAB0@bboffice>

Bob,

Welcome to the list, odd parts, advice and sources are what we do best.
Wish I could help but I don't have Spit.

All the best,
Bill



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert Hendricks
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2012 11:24 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] need door handle

Hello all. Im new to this mailing list. I hope this is an appropriate
request. 

After a two year frame off complete restoration - the tub is at the paint
shop and I discover that a piece in one of my doors is broken.  I am looking
for the left exterior door handle with mechanism for a 1972 Triumph
Spitfire.  A little plastic gizmo inside the mechanism is broken.  I am
hoping to purchase a used handle so I can retrieve the broken piece from it.

Thanks

Bob

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From guy at genfiniti.com  Fri Apr 20 11:34:52 2012
From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins)
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2012 12:34:52 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Is this noise detonation (link provided to listen)
Message-ID: <3916E272-D733-48A4-B605-881D6D3A97D3@genfiniti.com>

All,

In order to help you help me, I made a recording of the engine with a quality
microphone and posted to YouTube (link below).
In addition to the normal tappet and valve noise we should hear in the engine,
I have this mysterious "rattle" that seems to correspond to the advance
kicking on or off.
Randall suggested it might be detonation, but I have no idea what the hell
detonation sounds like.
Could you please watch/listen to the video and discern what the noise is?
(Detonation, other)


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rf2qpLHv9IM


The following comments are related to the video:

After start-up, the rattle is spotty when idling
When I move to fast idle, it greatly diminishes
When I give it real throttle, the rattle is super loud and present
When I come down it diminishes, but suddenly spikes (second 32), which I
believe is when the advance cuts out





Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph

From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk  Fri Apr 20 11:55:39 2012
From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2012 18:55:39 +0100 (BST)
Subject: [TR] Standard-Triumph faults on TV
Message-ID: <1334944539.63229.YahooMailNeo@web29402.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

Hi, Everyone
 
There's a new TV programme hitting the UK airwaves called
"Celebrity Antiques Roadshow." I've watched a few of them, because the
'celebrities' are driving around different parts of the UK in a variety of old
Brit hardware. So far, we've had a Mk 1 2 litre Vitesse (seems to be in almost
every show) a Healey 3000, MG Midget (with Federal bumpers and a Spitfire lump
(so it's sadly not an MG) a Jowett Javelin convertible and another I forget.
The celebrities last night were Honor Blackman and Brit Eklund. Honor is
'wearing' very well for her 70+ years and Brit must surely have had a few nips
and tucks in the right places?
Perhaps typically, much of the series shooting
was done last year and they seemingly had EVERY day raining. I think the
Vitesse drivers have been warned about the excellent wet weather handling of
the Mk 1 2 litre as it wasn't swung sprung or rotoflexed - and it's being
driven far two slowly on the twisting wet roads. Maybe the car is still on its
original cross-plies? The rev counter needs an overhaul as well. Surging
needle between 2000 and 5000.
Anyway, last night was laugh time when Brit
Eklund got stuck in the passenger seat and couldn't get out. Lots of useless
pushing and pulling on the defective door handle by the embarrassed driver and
eventually she had to emerge in fairly unladylike fashion (in a trouser
suit) by climbing over the lowered soft top. I'm amazed she didn't fall out
earlier because the door striker plate had almost fallen off!
You just can't
beat indifferent British workmanship and design lasting in perpetuity for
enjoyment 45 years down the track.
 
Jonmac

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Apr 20 13:07:29 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2012 12:07:29 -0700
Subject: [TR] LED lights
In-Reply-To: <716962.1847845.1334937866069.JavaMail.root@vznit170132>
References: <716962.1847845.1334937866069.JavaMail.root@vznit170132>
Message-ID: <000401cd1f28$d58aaac0$80a00040$@rr.com>

> Lights and Flasher will work properly if you replace only the rear
> lamps.
> The load from the regular bulbs at the front (which to me were not as
> necessary) is sufficient to activate the flasher/indicator.

True for some flashers, not all of them.

-- Randall 

From rzempel at gmail.com  Fri Apr 20 13:17:34 2012
From: rzempel at gmail.com (Randall Zempel)
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2012 12:17:34 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Is this noise detonation
Message-ID: <CAJqHAibFZ27YnJ9xquNh_YOwWExaA4JC5pmzcwOHTkDE==tTrQ@mail.gmail.com>

Guy,


That doesn't sound like detonation to me...it sounds more like timing chain
slap, or maybe a shot waterpump or even loose fan blades.  I understand
you've replaced the timing chain and tensioner, so I dunno.  That's just
what it sounds like to me.

Randall Z



Message: 8
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2012 12:34:52 -0500
From: "G.D. Huggins" <guy at genfiniti.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR4A - Is this noise detonation (link provided to
       listen)
Message-ID: <3916E272-D733-48A4-B605-881D6D3A97D3 at genfiniti.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

All,

In order to help you help me, I made a recording of the engine with a
quality
microphone and posted to YouTube (link below).
In addition to the normal tappet and valve noise we should hear in the
engine,
I have this mysterious "rattle" that seems to correspond to the advance
kicking on or off.
Randall suggested it might be detonation, but I have no idea what the hell
detonation sounds like.
Could you please watch/listen to the video and discern what the noise is?
(Detonation, other)


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rf2qpLHv9IM


The following comments are related to the video:

After start-up, the rattle is spotty when idling
When I move to fast idle, it greatly diminishes
When I give it real throttle, the rattle is super loud and present
When I come down it diminishes, but suddenly spikes (second 32), which I
believe is when the advance cuts out





Cheers,

Guy D. Huggins
1965 Triumph TR4A
CTC 63569LO

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Apr 20 13:27:31 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2012 12:27:31 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 SU Carbs
In-Reply-To: <4F91858C.9080400@execulink.com>
References: <4F91858C.9080400@execulink.com>
Message-ID: <000801cd1f2b$a25ab200$e7101600$@rr.com>

> Given the design of the exposed jet SU can they really be made
> to be leak free?

I believe so, yes.  However, they do require attention from time to time to
keep them that way.  My experience (with H6 that are basically identical in
the float and jet area) is that the original type seals only last about a
year before they start to leak.

Whether a "professional" rebuild will achieve that, I do not know.  I've
helped a local TR3B owner fix his carbs after they were professionally
rebuilt; the jets were not centered properly and the locking nuts had been
left loose.  My opinion, if you want it done right, do it yourself.

> leaking from the jet bodies,

Moss motors sells "improved" jet seals, which have worked very well for me.
It is also important IMO to polish the surface of the jet where the seal
rides.  This both reduces wear and improves the choke action.  I have also
seen replacement jets where the jet itself would leak!

> float levels

Use the standard type float valves (not Grose Jets), adjust them by the
book, check that the float doesn't have fuel inside and that the fuel
pressure is not too high.  If you are getting overflows, replace all the
soft lines and consider adding a (non-original) filter just before the carb
inlet to catch any crud that makes it past the screen and sediment bowl in
the pump.

> excessive richness

If this is at idle, it may be an indication that the jets and/or needles are
worn (from being run with the centering not quite right).  This is a
somewhat dangerous situation, as leaning out the idle will cause the cruise
mixture to also be lean; which can lead to overheating and even severe
engine damage.  (Which I once heard described as a "cloud of engine parts
chasing me down the highway.")

> stiff choke actuation,

As above, polish the surface of the jets until they shine.  Toothpaste and
your fingers will work fine (of course you have to clean out all traces of
toothpaste afterwards).  I also advocate replacing the springs both inside
the jets and the choke return springs.  They frequently get tweaked by
either old age, or previous owners trying to improve things.  Check that the
cable itself works freely and is the proper type (stranded center, not
solid).  Hook the linkage up following the photo in Practical Hints (or the
diagram in "More BS on TRs").  Don't worry that the pivots are
loosey-goosey, they are supposed to be that way.

-- Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Apr 20 13:31:12 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2012 12:31:12 -0700
Subject: [TR] more harness
In-Reply-To: <7076.5bca340.3cc2aab1@cs.com>
References: <7076.5bca340.3cc2aab1@cs.com>
Message-ID: <000901cd1f2c$25ab5560$71020020$@rr.com>

> The trick I used when I checked out the TR3 is I connected each circuit
> to the battery via a spare headlamp.

I even save old headlight bulbs for this sort of thing.

> Leave out the fuses

But first start with the headlamp between the battery connector and the
battery.  There is a lot of the TR3 harness that is not protected by fuses
(including the entire headlight circuit).

-- Randall 

From tr3a.60 at gmail.com  Fri Apr 20 14:21:24 2012
From: tr3a.60 at gmail.com (John Wise)
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2012 16:21:24 -0400
Subject: [TR] LED lights
In-Reply-To: <000401cd1f28$d58aaac0$80a00040$@rr.com>
References: <716962.1847845.1334937866069.JavaMail.root@vznit170132>
	<000401cd1f28$d58aaac0$80a00040$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <ECE11FAE-C52C-442B-8626-C86AF156AF8C@gmail.com>

For my TR3 I used an electronic flasher.  On my 911 I put a resister in line
with the lights (there is no electronic flasher that would fit it.

John.


On  20 Apr, 2012, at 3:07 PM, Randall wrote:

>> Lights and Flasher will work properly if you replace only the rear
>> lamps.
>> The load from the regular bulbs at the front (which to me were not as
>> necessary) is sufficient to activate the flasher/indicator.
>
> True for some flashers, not all of them.
>
> -- Randall
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3a.60 at gmail.com

John A. Wise
Ormond Beach, FL

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Fri Apr 20 15:37:19 2012
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2012 17:37:19 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Rostyle Wheel Covers
Message-ID: <3b6.6b99b207.3cc3310f@aol.com>

List,
 
Does anyone know of a source for very nice rostyle wheel covers?  I'm  
looking for a set of four for a customer with a TR250 that we're doing a "little 
 bit better than" daily driver restoration.  They don't need to be concours 
 but relatively dent free with decent paint and stainless would be great!   
(I wish I kept my rostyle covers from my 1969 TR6 38 years ago when I sold 
the  car....to me (back then) they were just "wheel covers":)
 
Thanks,
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack,  PA
1976 TR6 CF57822U

From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk  Fri Apr 20 16:08:19 2012
From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2012 23:08:19 +0100 (BST)
Subject: [TR] Rostyle Wheel Covers
In-Reply-To: <3b6.6b99b207.3cc3310f@aol.com>
References: <3b6.6b99b207.3cc3310f@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1334959699.85806.YahooMailNeo@web29406.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

Chip
 
You couldn't have come to a better place. I've got no less than 13 of
the damned things - all in immaculate condition. I'd be more than happy to
make a set available but unfortunately you'll have to reduce your wheel size
to 14 inch as these came off a Triumph Big Six

Cheers, Jonmac
>________________________________
> From: "Chip19474 at aol.com"
<Chip19474 at aol.com>
>To: triumphs at autox.team.net 
>Sent: Friday, 20 April
2012, 22:37
>Subject: [TR] Rostyle Wheel Covers
>  
>List,
>
>Does anyone know
of a source for very nice rostyle wheel covers?  I'm  
>looking for a set of
four for a customer with a TR250 that we're doing a "little 
>bit better than"
daily driver restoration.  They don't need to be concours 
>but relatively
dent free with decent paint and stainless would be great!  
>(I wish I kept my
rostyle covers from my 1969 TR6 38 years ago when I sold 
>the  car....to me
(back then) they were just "wheel covers":)
>
>Thanks,
>
>Chip Krout
>Delaware
Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
>Skippack,  PA
>1976 TR6 CF57822U
>
>**
triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk

From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com  Fri Apr 20 16:46:06 2012
From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (Brian Induni)
Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2012 15:46:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] Complete TR4 engine, gearbox, and separate O/D gearbox FS
Message-ID: <005f01cd1f47$5f9e2070$1eda6150$@roadrunner.com>

I hope I'm not stepping out of bounds by posting this to this forum, but I'm
looking to sell some TR4 components. I have a COMPLETE (carbs, generator,
EVERYTHING) TR4 engine and attached gearbox. Since this is out of a '63 TR4,
I'm thinking it's 3 syncro unit. The second bit is an O/D gearbox out of a
TR4, although the year is unknown. It looks like the solenoid is missing,
and the solenoid mounting plate is broken where the solenoid mounts - both
of these pieces are readily available from Moss. Last pieces is an
aftermarket hardtop needing some TLC but in decent shape.

Obviously I can't easily ship these, but if you're in the Pac West, we could
make arrangements to meet somewhere (I'm in Coeur d' Alene, ID). I'm happy
to send pics or answer questions if you're interested. Send an email to
Binduni at gmail.com and let's start a discussion.

I'm looking to get $750 for the engine/gearbox package, and $550 for the O/D
gearbox (given it needs a couple of pieces to be complete). Hardtop can go
for $100.

Brian

From jdemuth at ties2.net  Sat Apr 21 09:06:27 2012
From: jdemuth at ties2.net (Joe DeMuth)
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2012 08:06:27 -0700
Subject: [TR] Engine rattle
Message-ID: <DE1F4960-E6A6-4C7D-94C2-F123058657A7@ties2.net>

I had a noise similar to that on the tr3. Turned out the fan was loose do to
disintegrated rubber washers. The holes were worn oblong and it was rattling
like crazy.

From carlsereda at aol.com  Sat Apr 21 13:14:12 2012
From: carlsereda at aol.com (Carl Sereda)
Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2012 15:14:12 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR4A engine rattles
In-Reply-To: <mailman.17.1335031203.18422.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.17.1335031203.18422.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8CEEE0A11958222-E10-57780@Webmail-m115.sysops.aol.com>

Guy,
Could have something to do with distributor slotted drive shaft.. or problem
with advance weights . Or like someone said, fan mounts.. You might isolate
the source of rattle better with a 'hearing tube' (length of small diameter
tube or garden hose) to hone in on origin of noise while motor running
(amazingly helpful). Or one of those engine stethescopes (with a metal rod
attachment) to touch against different areas on running motor (carefully!) to
hone in on exact location. Could be something as simple as deteriorated engine
torque buffer arm rubber (mine was reduced to a rattly steel washer left on
the bolt).
Good luck,
Carl

'63 TR4 since '74


In order to help you help me, I made a recording of the engine with a
quality
microphone and posted to YouTube (link below).
In addition to the normal tappet and valve noise we should hear in the
engine,
I have this mysterious "rattle" that seems to correspond to the advance
kicking on or off.
Randall suggested it might be detonation, but I have no idea what the hell
detonation sounds like.
Could you please watch/listen to the video and discern what the noise is?
(Detonation, other)

From raekev at orcon.net.nz  Sat Apr 21 13:29:33 2012
From: raekev at orcon.net.nz (Kevin & Raewyn)
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2012 07:29:33 +1200
Subject: [TR] ENGINE RATTLE
Message-ID: <4F930A9D.4000603@orcon.net.nz>

/local/mailman/lynxXXXXIhIDbR: Permission denied

From tr3a.60 at gmail.com  Sun Apr 22 08:09:01 2012
From: tr3a.60 at gmail.com (John Wise)
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2012 10:09:01 -0400
Subject: [TR] carpet installation question
Message-ID: <5810C3B6-7111-4CBE-AC01-51390C284A10@gmail.com>

I bought new carpet for my TR3A when Moss had its last sale.  Now that I have
some time, I pulled the OLD (my guess original) stuff out.  (Actually not bad
for 50+ year old carpet.)

It Moss kit came without any instructions (e.g., how to install the snaps),
but I can phone them tomorrow & ask that they fax or email them to me
(assuming they exist).

My question is what would the list suggest to hold the vertical pieces (e.g.,
the sides of the footwell) in place?   Glue (what kind), velcro,  screws,
snaps, ...???

Any sage advice and/or tips will be appreciated.

Thanks

John

John A. Wise
Ormond Beach, FL

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From tr6parts at charter.net  Sun Apr 22 08:35:38 2012
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore)
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2012 10:35:38 -0400
Subject: [TR] carpet installation question
References: <5810C3B6-7111-4CBE-AC01-51390C284A10@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <43B7C17B7C2142F5BF00318C31DA507B@Alan>

I don't know about TR3,  but the TR6 footwell carpet was glued to a fiber 
type board and then screw to the wall.

How was the one you took out attached?

Al

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Wise" <tr3a.60 at gmail.com>
To: "car discussion Sports Triumph" <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2012 10:09 AM
Subject: [TR] carpet installation question


>I bought new carpet for my TR3A when Moss had its last sale.  Now that I 
>have
> some time, I pulled the OLD (my guess original) stuff out.  (Actually not 
> bad
> for 50+ year old carpet.)
>
> It Moss kit came without any instructions (e.g., how to install the 
> snaps),
> but I can phone them tomorrow & ask that they fax or email them to me
> (assuming they exist).
>
> My question is what would the list suggest to hold the vertical pieces 
> (e.g.,
> the sides of the footwell) in place?   Glue (what kind), velcro,  screws,
> snaps, ...???
>
> Any sage advice and/or tips will be appreciated.
>
> Thanks
>
> John
>
> John A. Wise
> Ormond Beach, FL
>
> 1960 Triumph TR3A
> Commission No: TS80422L
> http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
> http://www.triumphowners.com/876
>
> 1977 Porsche 911S
> http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr6parts at charter.net

From tr3a.60 at gmail.com  Sun Apr 22 08:44:55 2012
From: tr3a.60 at gmail.com (John Wise)
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2012 10:44:55 -0400
Subject: [TR] carpet installation question
In-Reply-To: <43B7C17B7C2142F5BF00318C31DA507B@Alan>
References: <5810C3B6-7111-4CBE-AC01-51390C284A10@gmail.com>
	<43B7C17B7C2142F5BF00318C31DA507B@Alan>
Message-ID: <F92BE2BA-EAE4-4C6E-B3FF-E68720962F49@gmail.com>

My TR3A had rubber floor mats from the seats forward on both sides, they were
held up with 2 spring clips on each side.  The small carpet piece covering the
fire wall over the tunnel was glued in place with some 50 year old glue.  All
I can say is it is now brown. :-)

John


On  22 Apr, 2012, at 10:35 AM, Al Salvatore wrote:

> I don't know about TR3,  but the TR6 footwell carpet was glued to a fiber
type board and then screw to the wall.
>
> How was the one you took out attached?
>
> Al
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Wise" <tr3a.60 at gmail.com>
> To: "car discussion Sports Triumph" <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2012 10:09 AM
> Subject: [TR] carpet installation question
>
>
>> I bought new carpet for my TR3A when Moss had its last sale.  Now that I
have
>> some time, I pulled the OLD (my guess original) stuff out.  (Actually not
bad
>> for 50+ year old carpet.)
>>
>> It Moss kit came without any instructions (e.g., how to install the
snaps),
>> but I can phone them tomorrow & ask that they fax or email them to me
>> (assuming they exist).
>>
>> My question is what would the list suggest to hold the vertical pieces
(e.g.,
>> the sides of the footwell) in place?   Glue (what kind), velcro,  screws,
>> snaps, ...???
>>
>> Any sage advice and/or tips will be appreciated.
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> John
>>
>> John A. Wise
>> Ormond Beach, FL
>>
>> 1960 Triumph TR3A
>> Commission No: TS80422L
>> http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
>> http://www.triumphowners.com/876
>>
>> 1977 Porsche 911S
>> http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/
>>
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr6parts at charter.net
>
>

John A. Wise
Ormond Beach, FL

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From spook01 at comcast.net  Sun Apr 22 08:57:45 2012
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2012 10:57:45 -0400
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Update_on_addco_sway_bar?=
Message-ID: <mailman.0.1335106643.7100.triumphs@autox.team.net>

You guys may remember I bought an addco sway bar for the front of a early (ct3xx) TR4.
It did not fit.
Basically, the problem is that the bar's side arms are too short to allow the bar to be mounted high enough on the front bumper supports to allow the bar to be level, and allow the links to be vertical.
I was contacted by Addco, and told that if I would send info they would make a bar that works.
I was happy to help and sent photos and measurements to the individual who contacted me.
Unfortunately, since then, silence.
These bars do not fit the early cars correctly, and use of the bar as supplied stress the bumper supports due to the incorrect design.  Just a word to the wise, especially if you are buying off eBay.
Further updates if I hear anything.
Ray 


Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

From pryner at verizon.net  Sun Apr 22 09:05:47 2012
From: pryner at verizon.net (Peter Ryner)
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2012 11:05:47 -0400
Subject: [TR] carpet installation question
In-Reply-To: <F92BE2BA-EAE4-4C6E-B3FF-E68720962F49@gmail.com>
References: <5810C3B6-7111-4CBE-AC01-51390C284A10@gmail.com>
	<43B7C17B7C2142F5BF00318C31DA507B@Alan>
	<F92BE2BA-EAE4-4C6E-B3FF-E68720962F49@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <9C82FF05CF1F426A949DA2C697FD76CD@PetePC>

John,
On all of the TR-3s I've seen, all had the carpet glued directly to to 
metal, no backing boards or screws were used.
I used spray contact cement to hold the carpet onto the metal.  Need the 
heavy duty stuff like 3M high strength 90.  You can also brush normal 
contact cement on both sides.  The brush on stuff comes in a water base 
formula which is much less fumes issue, but I've found that it doesn't hold 
quite as well.  Also make sure everything is clean.  The glue will not 
adhere to dirt or dust.  If you have fresh paint on the metal surface it is 
best to let it cure completely before glueing the carpet in place.  The 
solvents in the glue will lift fresh paint.
Pete
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Wise" <tr3a.60 at gmail.com>
To: "Al Salvatore" <tr6parts at charter.net>
Cc: "car discussion Sports Triumph" <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2012 10:44 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] carpet installation question


> My TR3A had rubber floor mats from the seats forward on both sides, they 
> were
> held up with 2 spring clips on each side.  The small carpet piece covering 
> the
> fire wall over the tunnel was glued in place with some 50 year old glue. 
> All
> I can say is it is now brown. :-)
>
> John

From lbrouder at yahoo.co.uk  Sun Apr 22 10:03:14 2012
From: lbrouder at yahoo.co.uk (Larry Brouder)
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2012 17:03:14 +0100 (BST)
Subject: [TR] GT6+ Body Removal
Message-ID: <1335110594.40870.YahooMailNeo@web28802.mail.ir2.yahoo.com>

I have completed stripping the body and it's time for it to go on the
rotisserie. All body bolts are out, shocks are disconnected. Is it recommended
to just jack it up and lift it off? Any stress points to be concerned about?
Also, tag shows a paint code for royal blue, but body has a ton of high-gloss
exterior white (wheel wells inside, under side vents, etc.). Did they use a
high-gloss white to prime (which seems unlikely) or does this car have an
incorrect tag? The white is in places none of the many repaints would have
touched.

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Sun Apr 22 10:32:30 2012
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2012 12:32:30 -0400
Subject: [TR] carpet installation question
In-Reply-To: <5810C3B6-7111-4CBE-AC01-51390C284A10@gmail.com>
References: <5810C3B6-7111-4CBE-AC01-51390C284A10@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <007501cd20a5$86048bf0$920da3d0$@net>

There are no obvious holes so I was going to glue - but Velcro may be a good
alternative so that they can be removed if ever necessary.  I am thinking
that the hook side could be put on the metal and be positioned so that it
mates with the carpet that is rolled over around the sides...  

Thanks for the suggestion.

Carl



1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO 
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 
getting closer.  2012 is the year!

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Apr 22 12:43:42 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2012 11:43:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] Update on addco sway bar
In-Reply-To: <20120422150815.6F3032D05D7@autox.team.net>
References: <20120422150815.6F3032D05D7@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <07ee01cd20b7$d77f2370$0601a8c0@randall>

> I was happy to help and sent photos and measurements to the 
> individual who contacted me.
> Unfortunately, since then, silence.

When I had a similar incident with them, many years ago, it took about 3
weeks for the modified parts to show up on my doorstep.  No word from them
before or after, but the parts fit and I was happy.

> Basically, the problem is that the bar's side arms are too 
> short to allow the bar to be mounted high enough on the front 
> bumper supports to allow the bar to be level, and allow the 
> links to be vertical.

So, how far off is it?  10-15 degrees isn't going to hurt anything, IMO.
Mine was slightly off-level, with the car at normal ride height; and still
worked quite well.

After all, it doesn't stay level anyway.  The angles change every time you
hit a bump.

-- Randall  

From raekev at orcon.net.nz  Sun Apr 22 13:03:05 2012
From: raekev at orcon.net.nz (Kevin & Raewyn)
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2012 07:03:05 +1200
Subject: [TR] Engine Rattle
Message-ID: <4F9455E9.4080007@orcon.net.nz>

/local/mailman/lynxXXXXrhPh9G: Permission denied

From ahwahneetr at gmail.com  Sun Apr 22 13:50:05 2012
From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2012 12:50:05 -0700
Subject: [TR] carpet installation question
In-Reply-To: <007501cd20a5$86048bf0$920da3d0$@net>
References: <5810C3B6-7111-4CBE-AC01-51390C284A10@gmail.com>
	<007501cd20a5$86048bf0$920da3d0$@net>
Message-ID: <CANzE1bE0mDDzKDJb8+ifQOTGtkXHu1GwTNaOWvEL2kU6MBaYNQ@mail.gmail.com>

I like Carl's suggestion of Velcro though I have recently use a similar
product that I think is a major improvement on the velcro concept:

http://www.3m.com/product/information/Dual-Lock-Reclosable-Fastener.html

Looks a bit like Velcro but really (audibly) snaps into place and makes a
very strong & firm connection.  Can even hold quite a bit of weight.  I
found some at Ace in 3" lengths though not all Ace's have them.

Geo

On Sun, Apr 22, 2012 at 9:32 AM, Carl TR <cfmtr3a at verizon.net> wrote:

> There are no obvious holes so I was going to glue - but Velcro may be a
> good
> alternative so that they can be removed if ever necessary...

From tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net  Sun Apr 22 15:59:28 2012
From: tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net (Tomislav Marincic)
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2012 17:59:28 -0400
Subject: [TR] GT6+ Body Removal
Message-ID: <000901cd20d3$31562590$940270b0$@earthlink.net>

My bet is that someone had two GT6's and one valid title, if the car is
ex-US. Maybe this happens in the UK too, but you guys keep the same plates
for the life of the car, right? 

 

Do you have a Heritage certificate for the car?  Is the body number correct
for that commission number?

 

I once went to look at a TR250 for sale, and it had a Commission number that
began with CT. At some point someone had a TR250 with no title and a TR4
parts car, I suppose.

 

Good Luck, Tom

From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Apr 22 19:41:28 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2012 19:41:28 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR4 Differential
In-Reply-To: <0c7d01cd1c02$7f501740$7df045c0$@rr.com>
References: <0A86A87F-2216-40B1-86C3-F4A2D47E937E@citlink.net>
	<0c7d01cd1c02$7f501740$7df045c0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <4F94B348.4020908@bradakis.com>

Wonder if it just the pin that holds the planet gear shaft in place.
On the MGB I worked on the other day that was just a basic 3/16"
roll pin.

mjb.

From lbrouder at yahoo.co.uk  Mon Apr 23 09:28:08 2012
From: lbrouder at yahoo.co.uk (Larry Brouder)
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2012 16:28:08 +0100 (BST)
Subject: [TR] GT6+ Body Removal
In-Reply-To: <000901cd20d3$31562590$940270b0$@earthlink.net>
References: <000901cd20d3$31562590$940270b0$@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <1335194888.57627.YahooMailNeo@web28806.mail.ir2.yahoo.com>

Thanks Tom,
B 
It's a U.S. car (my email is confusing-I'm in the U.S.), with
the window surround and side tag showing KC57392. The paint # shows as 56
(Royal Blue) and interior color code is 27. Is a Heritage Certificate
equivalent toB  Carfax and/or UK specific?
B 
Thanks,
LB
________________________________
From: Tomislav Marincic
<tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net>
To: lbrouder at yahoo.co.uk 
Cc:
triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Sunday, 22 April 2012, 17:59
Subject: RE: GT6+
Body Removal


My bet is that someone had two GT6bs and one valid title, if
the car is ex-US. Maybe this happens in the UK too, but you guys keep the same
plates for the life of the car, right? 
B 
Do you have a Heritage certificate
for the car?B  Is the body number correct for that commission number?
B 
I
once went to look at a TR250 for sale, and it had a Commission number that
began with CT. At some point someone had a TR250 with no title and a TR4 parts
car, I suppose.
B 
Good Luck, Tom

From tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net  Mon Apr 23 13:16:09 2012
From: tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net (Tomislav Marincic)
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2012 15:16:09 -0400
Subject: [TR] GT6+
Message-ID: <002001cd2185$8a206c00$9e614400$@earthlink.net>

RE:" . Is a Heritage Certificate equivalent to  Carfax and/or UK specific?"

 

Larry,

 

Not exactly. A Heritage Certificate is a copy of the factory records that
Triumph had for your car, including original color, engine/body numbers,
date built, date "despatched", destination distributor, and sometimes key
codes. 

 

For example, my TR6 left the factory with a white top ("hood") and Damson
paint. It was built on 20 June 1970, but not shipped until 11 November, so
it featured authentic English corrosion right on the showroom floor. You can
see the actual certificate at www.triumphowners.com/735.

 

Get yours here:

http://www.heritage-motor-centre.co.uk/archive-services/

 

Cheers, Tom

CC55483L

From trkev at yahoo.com  Mon Apr 23 14:39:28 2012
From: trkev at yahoo.com (Kevin T)
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2012 13:39:28 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Engine Rattle (third try..)
Message-ID: <1335213568.6833.YahooMailNeo@web161402.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

My experience of a similar rattle was caused by the
waterpump pulley cracking
near the boss, allowing
the pulley to intermittently contact the pump
housing. 
It took some locating, until the fanbelt was removed....

From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk  Mon Apr 23 14:54:49 2012
From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2012 21:54:49 +0100 (BST)
Subject: [TR] GT6+
In-Reply-To: <002001cd2185$8a206c00$9e614400$@earthlink.net>
References: <002001cd2185$8a206c00$9e614400$@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <1335214489.75487.YahooMailNeo@web29401.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

Tom Maricic wrote:
For example, my TR6 left the factory with a white top
("hood") and Damson
paint. It was built on 20 June 1970, but not shipped until
11 November, so
it featured authentic English corrosion right on the showroom
floor. 
 
Tom, for accuracy's sake, I've got an aerial picture of the very
much 'open air' showroom at RAF Honeybourne where all the cars were stored
prior to shipment :) It's only about five miles from where I live now,
periodically flooded then and still floods now - so that was where the rust
started. Used to go there from time to time on Saturday mornings in the
1960's to earn some overtime looking for cars that had somehow got 'lost' or
robbed of bits. I've also written an article for the UK clubs about that place
- with pix - if anyone knows a club newsletter editor looking for empty pages
to fill. No charge for the material supply, just a copyright acknowledgement,
so email me off-list if there's any interest out there?
 
Jonmac

From JPayne at ThorCon.net  Mon Apr 23 14:56:41 2012
From: JPayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne)
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2012 20:56:41 +0000
Subject: [TR] GT6+
In-Reply-To: <1335214489.75487.YahooMailNeo@web29401.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
References: <002001cd2185$8a206c00$9e614400$@earthlink.net>
	<1335214489.75487.YahooMailNeo@web29401.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <5891B364A7C3594B9466304B59E65B1C16A1A0C9@ex1mbx01.onthenetoffice.com>

Absolutely,

Our club (BACLV - British Auto Club of Las Vegas) newsletter (The Spanner)
would love to have it and would provide proper acknowledgement.


Jonas Payne
PBR
Cell:   (702) 358-5084

From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk  Mon Apr 23 15:26:02 2012
From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2012 22:26:02 +0100 (BST)
Subject: [TR] RAF Honeybourne - the open air showroom!!!
Message-ID: <1335216362.22346.YahooMailNeo@web29405.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

Wow - in less than 10 minutes, four people have replied with a 'yes, please.'
Delighted to help gents and thanks for such a rapid response. Certainly faster
than a Lucas starter in firing up a reluctant Herald :) 
There's only one
little thing. 
I've got a busy week away from home from tomorrow onwards, it's
an early start and bedtime in the UK is now-now. What I plan to do is to send
off the material in one hit over the coming weekend if that's OK with
everyone? It'll help me if those of you who may yet reply can use the subject
heading I've used in this post? Makes things easier when trolling through the
In-box.

Cheers all, John


http://standard-triumph-books.co.uk

From tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net  Mon Apr 23 15:47:22 2012
From: tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net (Tomislav Marincic)
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2012 17:47:22 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] GT6+
Message-ID: <21070255.1335217642649.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rubis.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

/local/mailman/lynxXXXX0lLjNY: Permission denied

From cliff_hansen at earthlink.net  Mon Apr 23 20:00:18 2012
From: cliff_hansen at earthlink.net (Cliff Hansen)
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2012 20:00:18 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR4 and TR4A for sale
Message-ID: <7B52B2BF53BB4AA1B6215DAC7EC6D7F6@Shemp>

Listed in the Albuquerque paper as TR4 Parting out.  I went to see them today.
The TR4 (CT26776) has been outdoors for a long time and it would be a labor of
love to it bring back from its current sad state.  The bonnet and boot may be
useful; I doubt any of the fenders could be salvaged.  Usual rot in the sills.
The owner told me that the engine had been rebuilt when he bought the car, but
he only had the previous ownerbs word on that.  The best parts may be the
switch plinth, which actually looked usable, and the capping around the
cockpit, which was also decent.

The TR4A (CTC59578) has been stored indoors, and other than a ratty black
paint job, looked to be in decent shape, but not ready to be driven away.  I
didnbt find rust in the usual places.

No overdrive in either.  I didnbt ask him about titles.  The owner was at
least 5 beers past any rational discussion.  I got the impression that he just
wanted them gone and would likely take an offer for one or preferably both.

The owner has no internet access.  Ibd be happy to facilitate a deal and
will give you his name and phone number if you are interested.  He just asked
that I not post his number but I can reply with it to interested parties.  My
only interest is seeing at least one car go to a better home than the junkman.
Ibd buy the TR4A but have no place to store it.

Cliff

From zoboherald at aol.com  Mon Apr 23 20:47:29 2012
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace)
Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2012 22:47:29 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] RAF Honeybourne - the open air showroom!!!
In-Reply-To: <1335216362.22346.YahooMailNeo@web29405.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
References: <1335216362.22346.YahooMailNeo@web29405.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8CEEFDBB86E6BAD-A34-37E53@webmail-m150.sysops.aol.com>

 John wrote:


>Certainly faster
>than a Lucas starter in firing up a reluctant Herald :)



 Hello; someone called? :)


--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us

From lbrouder at yahoo.co.uk  Tue Apr 24 04:57:54 2012
From: lbrouder at yahoo.co.uk (Larry Brouder)
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2012 11:57:54 +0100 (BST)
Subject: [TR] GT6+
In-Reply-To: <5891B364A7C3594B9466304B59E65B1C16A1A0C9@ex1mbx01.onthenetoffice.com>
References: <002001cd2185$8a206c00$9e614400$@earthlink.net>
	<1335214489.75487.YahooMailNeo@web29401.mail.ird.yahoo.com>
	<5891B364A7C3594B9466304B59E65B1C16A1A0C9@ex1mbx01.onthenetoffice.com>
Message-ID: <1335265074.17742.YahooMailNeo@web28804.mail.ir2.yahoo.com>

That makes sense-mine must have spent an extra week or two on the lot during
monsoon. My TR6 was perfect and dry, but the GT6 is in line for a lot of new
metal. Thanks, gents.

From wbeech at flash.net  Tue Apr 24 12:31:04 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2012 13:31:04 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 Transmission shifting block
Message-ID: <B88AFD99587448B3885D76A012CDFC55@bboffice>

Got a few hindered miles on the re-built transmission now, all went real
good in the beginning just a little stiff but I guess that was to be
expected.  
 
But now, I cannot downshift into 2nd gear which is a real problem when
slowing down for a corner as I can't go on to first and third it too tall.
Up shifting from a standing start works most of the time but any small
mis-step and 2nd gear is denied me.
 
During the re-build everything looked real good and all we did was replace
the syncros and found one detent spring & ball missing.
 
Suggestions?
 
 
Thanks,
Bill
 
Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS30766L "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
'68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast"
"Hello, my name is Bill and I own an old British car.  Now...What are the
next 11 steps?"

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Apr 24 13:04:58 2012
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2012 12:04:58 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Transmission shifting block
In-Reply-To: <B88AFD99587448B3885D76A012CDFC55@bboffice>
References: <B88AFD99587448B3885D76A012CDFC55@bboffice>
Message-ID: <010501cd224d$2561e050$7025a0f0$@rr.com>

> During the re-build everything looked real good and all we did was
> replace
> the syncros and found one detent spring & ball missing.

So all the interlock bits (two balls and a pin) are in place?

Did you measure the force to move the shift rings on the hubs?

Any chance you got some of the bad synchro rings that were making the rounds
a few years ago?

What are you using for lube?  Might be worth trying some MT-90 if you aren't
already, as it seems to really improve shift action.

-- Randall 

From spook01 at comcast.net  Tue Apr 24 13:58:16 2012
From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=)
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2012 14:58:16 -0500
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?RAF_Honeybourne_-_the_open_air_showroom!!!?=
Message-ID: <mailman.3.1335297474.7100.triumphs@autox.team.net>

Conceive of Lucas phones.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone

----- Reply message -----
From: "Andrew S. Mace" <zoboherald at aol.com>
To: <flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk>, <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] RAF Honeybourne - the open air showroom!!!
Date: Mon, Apr 23, 2012 21:47


 John wrote:


>Certainly faster
>than a Lucas starter in firing up a reluctant Herald :)



 Hello; someone called? :)


--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net

From JPayne at ThorCon.net  Tue Apr 24 14:43:55 2012
From: JPayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne)
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2012 20:43:55 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR3 Transmission shifting block
In-Reply-To: <010501cd224d$2561e050$7025a0f0$@rr.com>
References: <B88AFD99587448B3885D76A012CDFC55@bboffice>
	<010501cd224d$2561e050$7025a0f0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <5891B364A7C3594B9466304B59E65B1C174726B6@ex1mbx01.onthenetoffice.com>

What are the symptoms of the bad synchro rings?


Jonas Payne
PBR
Cell:   (702) 358-5084

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2012 12:05 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Transmission shifting block

> During the re-build everything looked real good and all we did was
> replace the syncros and found one detent spring & ball missing.

So all the interlock bits (two balls and a pin) are in place?

Did you measure the force to move the shift rings on the hubs?

Any chance you got some of the bad synchro rings that were making the rounds a
few years ago?

What are you using for lube?  Might be worth trying some MT-90 if you aren't
already, as it seems to really improve shift action.

-- Randall

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jpayne at thorcon.net

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Apr 24 15:18:48 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2012 14:18:48 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Transmission shifting block
In-Reply-To: <5891B364A7C3594B9466304B59E65B1C174726B6@ex1mbx01.onthenetoffice.com>
References: <B88AFD99587448B3885D76A012CDFC55@bboffice><010501cd224d$2561e050$7025a0f0$@rr.com>
	<5891B364A7C3594B9466304B59E65B1C174726B6@ex1mbx01.onthenetoffice.com>
Message-ID: <00ab01cd225f$d72d7350$0601a8c0@randall>

> What are the symptoms of the bad synchro rings?

Just generally poor synchro action, AFAIK.  I was fortunate enough to avoid
the experience myself. 

-- Randall  

From JPayne at ThorCon.net  Tue Apr 24 15:29:35 2012
From: JPayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne)
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2012 21:29:35 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR3 Transmission shifting block
In-Reply-To: <00ab01cd225f$d72d7350$0601a8c0@randall>
References: <B88AFD99587448B3885D76A012CDFC55@bboffice><010501cd224d$2561e050$7025a0f0$@rr.com>
	<5891B364A7C3594B9466304B59E65B1C174726B6@ex1mbx01.onthenetoffice.com>
	<00ab01cd225f$d72d7350$0601a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <5891B364A7C3594B9466304B59E65B1C174737A9@ex1mbx01.onthenetoffice.com>

I'm still trying to chase down the "tapping" noise in my rebuilt TR4 trans
with OD in my TR3 and am pulling my hair out trying to find the source.

It only occurs under load, and is directly related to engine rpm, showing up
at between 2500 and 4500 RPM

I think we have it narrowed to the OD unit, which was not rebuilt, but nobody
seems to have had any experience with an OD making this particular noise.


Jonas Payne
PBR
Cell:   (702) 358-5084

From wbeech at flash.net  Tue Apr 24 15:52:33 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2012 16:52:33 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 Transmission shifting block
In-Reply-To: <5891B364A7C3594B9466304B59E65B1C174726B6@ex1mbx01.onthenetoffice.com>
References: <B88AFD99587448B3885D76A012CDFC55@bboffice>
	<010501cd224d$2561e050$7025a0f0$@rr.com>
	<5891B364A7C3594B9466304B59E65B1C174726B6@ex1mbx01.onthenetoffice.com>
Message-ID: <D099575F-8F69-4881-94DC-4C4A1F9A652B@flash.net>

Syncro rings are just a few months old from TRF.  Did not measure the shift
ring pressure.  I am using Sta-Lube GL4 85-90, which is what I have used for
the past three years.

I am wondering if a fork may have slipped on the rod, we did replace the
O-rings.

The only prior complaint was some grinding downshifting to 3rd at speed.

Sent from mobile Bill

On Apr 24, 2012, at 3:43 PM, Jonas Payne <JPayne at ThorCon.net> wrote:

> What are the symptoms of the bad synchro rings?
>
>
> Jonas Payne
> PBR
> Cell:   (702) 358-5084
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Randall
> Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2012 12:05 PM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Transmission shifting block
>
>> During the re-build everything looked real good and all we did was
>> replace the syncros and found one detent spring & ball missing.
>
> So all the interlock bits (two balls and a pin) are in place?
>
> Did you measure the force to move the shift rings on the hubs?
>
> Any chance you got some of the bad synchro rings that were making the rounds
a
> few years ago?
>
> What are you using for lube?  Might be worth trying some MT-90 if you
aren't
> already, as it seems to really improve shift action.
>
> -- Randall
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jpayne at thorcon.net
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From greg at gelhar.com  Tue Apr 24 16:12:39 2012
From: greg at gelhar.com (greg at gelhar.com)
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2012 18:12:39 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 Transmission shifting block
In-Reply-To: <5891B364A7C3594B9466304B59E65B1C174737A9@ex1mbx01.onthenetoffice.com>
References: <B88AFD99587448B3885D76A012CDFC55@bboffice><010501cd224d$2561e050$7025a0f0$@rr.com>
	<5891B364A7C3594B9466304B59E65B1C174726B6@ex1mbx01.onthenetoffice.com>
	<00ab01cd225f$d72d7350$0601a8c0@randall>
	<5891B364A7C3594B9466304B59E65B1C174737A9@ex1mbx01.onthenetoffice.com>
Message-ID: <3abda757948dde6585e41b78ba953d17.squirrel@email.accountsupport.com>

Here's a thought. Have you checked for the noise with the inspection cover
removed? It is the half moon shaped cover at the bottom of the bell
housing. If it is installed the wrong way around, there can be a light
interference with the bolts used to mount the ring gear onto the flywheel.

Greg G.
Osseo, MN

> I'm still trying to chase down the "tapping" noise in my rebuilt TR4 trans
> with OD in my TR3 and am pulling my hair out trying to find the source.
>
> It only occurs under load, and is directly related to engine rpm, showing
> up
> at between 2500 and 4500 RPM
>
> I think we have it narrowed to the OD unit, which was not rebuilt, but
> nobody
> seems to have had any experience with an OD making this particular noise.
>
>
> Jonas Payne
> PBR
> Cell:   (702) 358-5084
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/greg at gelhar.com

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Tue Apr 24 18:40:49 2012
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2012 20:40:49 -0400
Subject: [TR] Pics from my inaugural TR2 Trip
Message-ID: <CANhzkeNPYg3qvK6RLHm_Sj9E6p8mh8nvy4EVLqrxDwyvQCtQTw@mail.gmail.com>

Please excuse the gratuitous tr2 pics.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/x06qrfs3ic8tnv2/ZQAnvSYW1U/2012%20Gathering

https://skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?cid=59aaa6c6fbc78f4f&resid=59AAA6C6FBC78F4F%21350&parid=59AAA6C6FBC78F4F%21211&authkey=%21ABhTW4HFI5g0vuo

all in all it was a very good show and quite fun. We ran hotter than I'd
like on the way home, but I think there is a 195 degree Tstat in it.... so
it might not have been that big a deal.

The car did ok in the autocross - the one hard run I made did not count as
we had a timer malfunction - but I was quite happy with the run.

Still much to do - but the car is already fun!!!

Take care,

Chris

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Tue Apr 24 19:20:13 2012
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2012 21:20:13 -0400
Subject: [TR] clutch bleeding
In-Reply-To: <8CE55DAB26F4279-101C-98EE6@webmail-d135.sysops.aol.com>
References: <4E935624.17443.28C3D33A@localhost>
	<8CE55DAB26F4279-101C-98EE6@webmail-d135.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <CANhzkeP4CdhBj6fUQANACMqv17-vUA_VXWZ2x0DuTw3+-oisTQ@mail.gmail.com>

I just put a new master cylinder and at the same time put the morgan rear
brake cylinders on the car.  I saw in this thread the use of a stick and
the seat to be the "pusher".  I had a piece of 1/4 cabinet grade plywood
2.5 inches wide and used that between the brake pedal and the steering
wheel to bleed the brakes - it accepts a good bend without breaking.  I
have a good hard pedal without an ill word to my better half!!!

Love this list!

On Mon, Oct 10, 2011 at 11:12 PM, Andrew S. Mace <zoboherald at aol.com> wrote:

> -----Original Message-----
>
> From: Jim Muller <jimmuller at rcn.com>
>
>
> I know I'm late to this conversation but I'll toss in my experience
> anyway.  I've always bled my clutch in situ, not on the bench.  In
> fact, it would be difficult to install a GT6 or Spitfire SC with the
> line attached.
>
> ==AM==
> Funny you should mention that, Jim, 'cause I did exactly that once, many
> years
> ago. I was trying to
> track down a clutch problem with an early Spitfire 4 and thought it might
> be
> related to the hydraulics.
> At the time, I had a Herald that had recently been sidelined (after contact
> with a Plymouth that ran a
> red light). I pulled the clutch master and slave out of the Herald, still
> connected to each other, and
> tried it in the Spitfire. Being basically the same architecture, it fit
> perfectly and wasn't that hard to do.
> Unfortunately, it wasn't the problem, but.... :)
>
> --Andy Mace
>
>
> triumphs at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ccsimonsen at gmail.com

From elliottr at rmi.net  Tue Apr 24 19:43:44 2012
From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott)
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2012 20:43:44 -0500
Subject: [TR] SU Carbs
Message-ID: <4F9756D0.6070104@rmi.net>

Hi,

I am trying to adjust the dual HS4s on my 80 Spitfire.  I adjusted the 
carbs to the recommended starting point to try to get a fresh run at 
adjusting them.

Turned the jets down 12 flats (2 turns) and then turned the throttle 
screw down 1 1/2 turns after it just came into contact with the lever.   
I noticed that the  throttle screws were not in contact with the lever 
when I started.

When I started the car it was running about 2600 rpm.  When I got it 
back down to close to 1,000 rpm, it looks like the throttle screws were 
no longer touching the levers.  Choke seems to be off, the fast idle 
screws are not touching. I rebuilt the carbs about 4 years ago.

I did not take them off, but it looks like the butterfly is closing well.

Any suggestions on what to look at, before I take the carbs off to 
inspect the butterfly more closely?

I have adjusted the valves, and timing.

Thanks,
Roger Elliott

From wbeech at flash.net  Tue Apr 24 21:19:59 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2012 22:19:59 -0500
Subject: [TR] SU Carbs
In-Reply-To: <4F9756D0.6070104@rmi.net>
References: <4F9756D0.6070104@rmi.net>
Message-ID: <C554AC415F63402F91A197CA1EB7A45F@bboffice>

Roger,
Run the mixture nuts back up 1 turn(six flats). Check the linkage to be sure
it is not hanging up somewhere, then check the butterflys.

Manually reach down and be sure the jets are pulled up all the way, these
can become sticky with long periods of sitting.

Bill 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Roger Elliott
Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2012 8:44 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] SU Carbs

Hi,

I am trying to adjust the dual HS4s on my 80 Spitfire.  I adjusted the carbs
to the recommended starting point to try to get a fresh run at adjusting
them.

Turned the jets down 12 flats (2 turns) and then turned the throttle 
screw down 1 1/2 turns after it just came into contact with the lever.   
I noticed that the  throttle screws were not in contact with the lever when
I started.

When I started the car it was running about 2600 rpm.  When I got it back
down to close to 1,000 rpm, it looks like the throttle screws were no longer
touching the levers.  Choke seems to be off, the fast idle screws are not
touching. I rebuilt the carbs about 4 years ago.

I did not take them off, but it looks like the butterfly is closing well.

Any suggestions on what to look at, before I take the carbs off to inspect
the butterfly more closely?

I have adjusted the valves, and timing.

Thanks,
Roger Elliott

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From jeffn at msystech.com  Tue Apr 24 23:22:48 2012
From: jeffn at msystech.com (Jeff Nathanson)
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2012 01:22:48 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 Alternator conversion
In-Reply-To: <C554AC415F63402F91A197CA1EB7A45F@bboffice>
References: <4F9756D0.6070104@rmi.net>
	<C554AC415F63402F91A197CA1EB7A45F@bboffice>
Message-ID: <0868390314454055B1418305B3F4BAF0@pistol>

First, I apologize for bringing up a topic that has been discussed many times.
But, the alternator in my '72 TR6 needs replacement for obvious reasons. The
output is not enough at idle and the wires (I have a 5-wire connection) and it
needs replacement.  Dan Master's excellent book explains several different
wiring options in detail. He recommends to use the GM alternator. Others
recommend to use a remanufactured '78 Ford Fiesta Bosch alternator w/55A which
gives almost a bolt-on replacement. And I can use Dan's wiring schematics for
the electrical hookup. My main problem is locating the Fiesta alternator. Does
anyone have a specific source for this Bosch alternator with fan and pulley? I
spent hours trying to locate one that is remanufactured, carrying some sort of
warranty. But, I have not yet found suppliers, like AutoZone, Summit, NAPA nor
Pep Boys. I don't want to search at junk yards. Does anyone have any
recommendations?

Thanking in advance,
Jeff N.
'72 TR6

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Apr 25 01:25:01 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2012 00:25:01 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 Alternator conversion
In-Reply-To: <0868390314454055B1418305B3F4BAF0@pistol>
References: <4F9756D0.6070104@rmi.net><C554AC415F63402F91A197CA1EB7A45F@bboffice>
	<0868390314454055B1418305B3F4BAF0@pistol>
Message-ID: <014a01cd22b4$872f3cd0$0601a8c0@randall>

Oddly enough, my usual sources don't list it any more.  Maybe the rebuilders
quit doing them for some reason?

However, I believe this is a Delco equivalent:
http://tinyurl.com/6rt5dkm
(As noted, you may have to move over the pulley from your Lucas)

But since you are going to have to modify your 5-wire hookup anyway, going
with a more common alternator might be the best idea.  That way you'll get a
bolted main connection (I don't trust those quick connects at high currents,
seen too many of them get hot and fail), and replacements available at any
corner FLAPS.

-- Randall  

From dixie4.wales at virgin.net  Wed Apr 25 01:42:12 2012
From: dixie4.wales at virgin.net (ADRIAN DIX-DYER)
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2012 08:42:12 +0100
Subject: [TR] TR6 Alternator conversion
In-Reply-To: <014a01cd22b4$872f3cd0$0601a8c0@randall>
References: <4F9756D0.6070104@rmi.net>
	<C554AC415F63402F91A197CA1EB7A45F@bboffice>
	<0868390314454055B1418305B3F4BAF0@pistol>
	<014a01cd22b4$872f3cd0$0601a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <CAJbHsd9Q=dnaD_syuQSB-_NZHTUYc+5_VeZgv4o3hBBU2gBc4Q@mail.gmail.com>

Maybe spread your search to UK and Europe. Fiestas using the alternator
unit you require were sold by the millions over here.
Recon units sell for about the equivalent of $120ish. Ebay UK list lots and
lots of them. Shipping may be expensive.

Adrian TR4A CT64306 O (Ex Tennessee)
Wales UK

On 25 April 2012 08:25, Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

> Oddly enough, my usual sources don't list it any more.  Maybe the
> rebuilders
> quit doing them for some reason?
>
> However, I believe this is a Delco equivalent:
> http://tinyurl.com/6rt5dkm
> (As noted, you may have to move over the pulley from your Lucas)
>
> But since you are going to have to modify your 5-wire hookup anyway, going
> with a more common alternator might be the best idea.  That way you'll get
> a
> bolted main connection (I don't trust those quick connects at high
> currents,
> seen too many of them get hot and fail), and replacements available at any
> corner FLAPS.
>
> -- Randall
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dixie4.wales at virgin.net

From guy at genfiniti.com  Wed Apr 25 05:36:39 2012
From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins)
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2012 06:36:39 -0500
Subject: [TR] SU Carbs
In-Reply-To: <4F9756D0.6070104@rmi.net>
References: <4F9756D0.6070104@rmi.net>
Message-ID: <CF562D41-5DD9-405C-8F09-A55355F010E1@genfiniti.com>

Roger,

I just spent last week adjusting my carbs; exploring the relationships between
timing, idle and mixture.
I have HS6's, but those are similar to the HS4s.

I basically had the same issue as you with the throttle screws barely touching
the plates, and the engine idling higher than it ought.
So I got the mixture set, which had a small impact on the idle, but not much,
with it still idling around 1000 rpm.
So, I retarded the timing a bit to tame the idle, but not too much to cause a
loss of power, overheating, etc.

I learned that you can retard the timing too much, and the car just will not
respond to throttle under load.
The exhaust gasses can also get very hot (because they are not burning up all
the way in the cylinder) and overheat the exhaust system.

The point is to find the correct tuning balance between timing, idle and
mixture.



On Apr 24, 2012, at 8:43 PM, Roger Elliott wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I am trying to adjust the dual HS4s on my 80 Spitfire.  I adjusted the carbs
to the recommended starting point to try to get a fresh run at adjusting
them.
>
> Turned the jets down 12 flats (2 turns) and then turned the throttle screw
down 1 1/2 turns after it just came into contact with the lever.   I noticed
that the  throttle screws were not in contact with the lever when I started.
>
> When I started the car it was running about 2600 rpm.  When I got it back
down to close to 1,000 rpm, it looks like the throttle screws were no longer
touching the levers.  Choke seems to be off, the fast idle screws are not
touching. I rebuilt the carbs about 4 years ago.
>
> I did not take them off, but it looks like the butterfly is closing well.
>
> Any suggestions on what to look at, before I take the carbs off to inspect
the butterfly more closely?
>
> I have adjusted the valves, and timing.
>
> Thanks,
> Roger Elliott
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/guy at genfiniti.com

From tr6parts at charter.net  Wed Apr 25 05:58:18 2012
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore)
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2012 07:58:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 Alternator conversion
References: <4F9756D0.6070104@rmi.net><C554AC415F63402F91A197CA1EB7A45F@bboffice><0868390314454055B1418305B3F4BAF0@pistol>
	<014a01cd22b4$872f3cd0$0601a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <8D778CD3216946C989FF3D6C8265866F@Alan>

The Delco unit looks exactly like the Bosche unit.

Al


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <TR3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: "'Jeff Nathanson'" <jeffn at msystech.com>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 3:25 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Alternator conversion


> Oddly enough, my usual sources don't list it any more.  Maybe the 
> rebuilders
> quit doing them for some reason?
>
> However, I believe this is a Delco equivalent:
> http://tinyurl.com/6rt5dkm
> (As noted, you may have to move over the pulley from your Lucas)
>
> But since you are going to have to modify your 5-wire hookup anyway, going
> with a more common alternator might be the best idea.  That way you'll get 
> a
> bolted main connection (I don't trust those quick connects at high 
> currents,
> seen too many of them get hot and fail), and replacements available at any
> corner FLAPS.
>
> -- Randall
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr6parts at charter.net

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Wed Apr 25 06:03:32 2012
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2012 08:03:32 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 Alternator conversion
In-Reply-To: <0868390314454055B1418305B3F4BAF0@pistol>
References: <4F9756D0.6070104@rmi.net>
	<C554AC415F63402F91A197CA1EB7A45F@bboffice>
	<0868390314454055B1418305B3F4BAF0@pistol>
Message-ID: <4F97E814.6050009@adelphia.net>

Jeff,

You might want to drop Triumph Rescue a email. Matt also specializes in 
wiring and they used to have the TR6 alternator project on their website.

http://www.triumphrescue.com/

I couldnt find the TR6 alternator project on their website, but an email 
might get you the information you need.

Bob

  On 04/25/2012 01:22 AM, Jeff Nathanson wrote:
> First, I apologize for bringing up a topic that has been discussed many times.
> But, the alternator in my '72 TR6 needs replacement for obvious reasons. The
> output is not enough at idle and the wires (I have a 5-wire connection) and it
> needs replacement.  Dan Master's excellent book explains several different
> wiring options in detail. He recommends to use the GM alternator. Others
> recommend to use a remanufactured '78 Ford Fiesta Bosch alternator w/55A which
> gives almost a bolt-on replacement. And I can use Dan's wiring schematics for
> the electrical hookup. My main problem is locating the Fiesta alternator. Does
> anyone have a specific source for this Bosch alternator with fan and pulley? I
> spent hours trying to locate one that is remanufactured, carrying some sort of
> warranty. But, I have not yet found suppliers, like AutoZone, Summit, NAPA nor
> Pep Boys. I don't want to search at junk yards. Does anyone have any
> recommendations?
>
> Thanking in advance,
> Jeff N.
> '72 TR6
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr at adelphia.net

From levilevi at comcast.net  Wed Apr 25 15:47:59 2012
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2012 15:47:59 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR6 Idle adjustment fix
Message-ID: <3B4A7248-32DF-47FF-9917-D9322431DB0A@comcast.net>

The idle on my 6 has been a bit high (10-12k) since installing Joe  
Alexander's velocity stacks (the engine likes more air at Denver's  
altitude) but when I tried to cut the idle back I realized the spring  
on the idle screws (ZS 175s) had become compressed and I couldn't let  
the screw out enough to lower the idle speed without losing the  
tension that holds it in place.

So I removed the screw and spring and stretched the spring just a bit  
(from 0.376 to 0.418 in.) and was able to get the idle to come closer  
to the 850-900 range once I could let the screw out and could still  
keep enough tension so it wouldn't rattle loose.

You'd think changing idle speed would be a simple thing but you learn  
something new everyday with these cars.


Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net

From tom628 at verizon.net  Wed Apr 25 21:05:25 2012
From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note)
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2012 23:05:25 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 Alternator conversion
References: <4F9756D0.6070104@rmi.net>
	<C554AC415F63402F91A197CA1EB7A45F@bboffice>
	<0868390314454055B1418305B3F4BAF0@pistol>
Message-ID: <8CB10C3045ED4AC99076915BB5FC3C37@Toms>

Jeff: The Bosch alternator should be available thru Rock Auto Parts. 
(rockauto.com).
It's Bosch P/N 13107, 55A, and was available on the fiestas that had A/C. 
Price was IIRC under $60.
Usually, it will come with the pulley, but sometimes their stock does not 
have one, but it's available thru. Jegs,e.g.

Tom


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jeff Nathanson" <jeffn at msystech.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 1:22 AM
Subject: [TR] TR6 Alternator conversion


> First, I apologize for bringing up a topic that has been discussed many 
> times.
> But, the alternator in my '72 TR6 needs replacement for obvious reasons. 
> The
> output is not enough at idle and the wires (I have a 5-wire connection) 
> and it
> needs replacement.  Dan Master's excellent book explains several different
> wiring options in detail. He recommends to use the GM alternator. Others
> recommend to use a remanufactured '78 Ford Fiesta Bosch alternator w/55A 
> which
> gives almost a bolt-on replacement. And I can use Dan's wiring schematics 
> for
> the electrical hookup. My main problem is locating the Fiesta alternator. 
> Does
> anyone have a specific source for this Bosch alternator with fan and 
> pulley? I
> spent hours trying to locate one that is remanufactured, carrying some 
> sort of
> warranty. But, I have not yet found suppliers, like AutoZone, Summit, NAPA 
> nor
> Pep Boys. I don't want to search at junk yards. Does anyone have any
> recommendations?
>
> Thanking in advance,
> Jeff N.
> '72 TR6
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tom628 at verizon.net 

From mark at bradakis.com  Wed Apr 25 21:13:16 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2012 21:13:16 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR6 Idle adjustment fix
In-Reply-To: <3B4A7248-32DF-47FF-9917-D9322431DB0A@comcast.net>
References: <3B4A7248-32DF-47FF-9917-D9322431DB0A@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4F98BD4C.2040902@bradakis.com>

Bud Rolofson wrote:
> The idle on my 6 has been a bit high (10-12k) 

Yep, 10 - 12,000 rpm is a bit high for an idle.

mjb.

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Apr 25 21:16:40 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2012 20:16:40 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 Alternator conversion
In-Reply-To: <8CB10C3045ED4AC99076915BB5FC3C37@Toms>
References: <4F9756D0.6070104@rmi.net><C554AC415F63402F91A197CA1EB7A45F@bboffice><0868390314454055B1418305B3F4BAF0@pistol>
	<8CB10C3045ED4AC99076915BB5FC3C37@Toms>
Message-ID: <02c901cd235a$fff4bb30$0601a8c0@randall>

> Jeff: The Bosch alternator should be available thru Rock Auto Parts. 
> (rockauto.com).

That was the first place I looked.  They used to list it, now they don't.

-- Randall  

From trdoctor at aol.com  Wed Apr 25 22:32:00 2012
From: trdoctor at aol.com (Sam Clark)
Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2012 23:32:00 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 Alternator conversion
Message-ID: <EE0BE438-F533-4047-819A-BECD72F96DD7@aol.com>

<snip>
Others recommend to use a remanufactured '78 Ford Fiesta Bosch alternator
w/55A which
gives almost a bolt-on replacement. And I can use Dan's wiring schematics for
the electrical hookup. My main problem is locating the Fiesta alternator.
Does
anyone have a specific source for this Bosch alternator with fan and pulley?
I
spent hours trying to locate one that is remanufactured, carrying some sort
of
warranty. But, I have not yet found suppliers, like AutoZone, Summit, NAPA
nor
Pep Boys. I don't want to search at junk yards. Does anyone have any
recommendations?

Thanking in advance,
Jeff N.
'72 TR6

I have one under my workbench still in the box I'd sell you.  It wouldn't fit
my GT6 because of clearance problems with the bonnet strut.  FWIW I got it
from Rock Auto PN #13107.  I was saving it for my 72 TR6 when the factory
Delco gives it up.

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Apr 26 06:39:58 2012
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2012 08:39:58 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 Idle adjustment fix
Message-ID: <5e953.52a3c5a3.3cca9c1e@cs.com>

Not for an F1 car.

In a message dated 4/25/2012 10:16:29 PM Central Daylight Time, 
mark at bradakis.com writes: 
> Bud Rolofson wrote:
> >The idle on my 6 has been a bit high (10-12k) 
> 
> Yep, 10 - 12,000 rpm is a bit high for an idle.
> 
> mjb.

From tfansher at comcast.net  Thu Apr 26 07:11:29 2012
From: tfansher at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?dGZhbnNoZXJAY29tY2FzdC5uZXQ=?=)
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2012 09:11:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Off_to_the_Mitty?=
Message-ID: <mailman.6.1335445853.7100.triumphs@autox.team.net>

On I-75  just above Gainesville, Florida headed to Road Atlanta. Three TR6's not far behind.  Looks like beautiful weather. 
Tom
73 Stag this trip 

Sent from my HTC on the Now Network from Sprint!

From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Thu Apr 26 08:00:06 2012
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2012 10:00:06 -0400
Subject: [TR] Different TR3/3A/3B hubcap globe styles?
Message-ID: <CAPK7CFDcdV2trg6gaSZAe2Epq5bvZNmQ+A2g30G6Q504LmAAig@mail.gmail.com>

The majority of the enameled globes on the original hubcaps for my TR3B had
the Triumph script in a diagonal line across the emblem, not the arched
script most commonly seen in enameled and painted globes.

Here's an image of some of the globes from my car:
http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-sfZDwS2/0/L/i-sfZDwS2-L.jpg

Standard-Triumph were nothing if not resourceful.  This style of globe had
to be used in a number of applications.  Is it just my limited experience,
or is this not at all common on sidescreen TRs?  Is it more common on some
other S-T model?

Thanks in advance,

Don
Saint Louis

1962 TR3B TSF202L -- Running now, after 28 years of moldering away and 31
years of ownership!
http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-ntgCXFK/0/L/i-ntgCXFK-L.jpg

From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Thu Apr 26 08:35:16 2012
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2012 10:35:16 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 Idle adjustment fix
In-Reply-To: <5e953.52a3c5a3.3cca9c1e@cs.com>
References: <5e953.52a3c5a3.3cca9c1e@cs.com>
Message-ID: <CAPK7CFC68aHdVuswUs9KKinDtzgLWVmHxjVVNuJsKABsndkQ2A@mail.gmail.com>

Yeah, F1 is now limited by regulation to 18,000 rpm at full throttle, or
the cars would easily be around 22,000 rpm by now.  A 12000 "idle" isn't
impossible at all.
http://www.formula1.com/inside_f1/rules_and_regulations/technical_regulations/8699/fia.html

The *sound* of 24 Formula 1 cars at full throttle on the start of a tight
course like the Monaco Formula 1 Grand Prix is beyond imagination.  The
other end of the spectrum from a wet liner TR four.  I can't wait until the
end of May and my annual visit to the Principality!

Don

On Thu, Apr 26, 2012 at 8:39 AM, <Dave1massey at cs.com> wrote:

> Not for an F1 car.
>
> In a message dated 4/25/2012 10:16:29 PM Central Daylight Time,
> mark at bradakis.com writes:
> > Bud Rolofson wrote:
> > >The idle on my 6 has been a bit high (10-12k)
> >
> > Yep, 10 - 12,000 rpm is a bit high for an idle.
> >
> > mjb.
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Thu Apr 26 10:24:18 2012
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2012 09:24:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Off to the Mitty
In-Reply-To: <20120426131731.1BC222D07B4@autox.team.net>
References: <20120426131731.1BC222D07B4@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <1335457458.97933.YahooMailNeo@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

me too
i-15 to the airport!
Frank


________________________________
From:
"tfansher at comcast.net" <tfansher at comcast.net>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2012 6:11 AM
Subject: [TR] Off to the Mitty

On
I-75  just above Gainesville, Florida headed to Road Atlanta. Three TR6's not
far behind.  Looks like beautiful weather. 
Tom
73 Stag this trip 

Sent from
my HTC on the Now Network from Sprint!

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Thu Apr 26 10:35:26 2012
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2012 12:35:26 -0400
Subject: [TR] Different TR3/3A/3B hubcap globe styles?
In-Reply-To: <CAPK7CFDcdV2trg6gaSZAe2Epq5bvZNmQ+A2g30G6Q504LmAAig@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPK7CFDcdV2trg6gaSZAe2Epq5bvZNmQ+A2g30G6Q504LmAAig@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANhzkeMLsDsEgocVWmpOTvFGY4mB3w0JhkDQ4tkfsYkV06Wv3A@mail.gmail.com>

Funny - I was talking with a friend about this the other day.  He asked me
to check the emblems on my TR2 as he had heard there were some center caps
without the underline under Triumph and thought it was only used on the
early TR2's....  Alas and alack - mine had the underline...

Now I'm interested in hearing what the collective wisdom of the list has to
say!

On Thu, Apr 26, 2012 at 10:00 AM, Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com> wrote:

> The majority of the enameled globes on the original hubcaps for my TR3B had
> the Triumph script in a diagonal line across the emblem, not the arched
> script most commonly seen in enameled and painted globes.
>
> Here's an image of some of the globes from my car:
> http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-sfZDwS2/0/L/i-sfZDwS2-L.jpg
>
> Standard-Triumph were nothing if not resourceful.  This style of globe had
> to be used in a number of applications.  Is it just my limited experience,
> or is this not at all common on sidescreen TRs?  Is it more common on some
> other S-T model?

From wbeech at flash.net  Thu Apr 26 11:18:03 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech)
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2012 12:18:03 -0500
Subject: [TR] Different TR3/3A/3B hubcap globe styles?
In-Reply-To: <CANhzkeMLsDsEgocVWmpOTvFGY4mB3w0JhkDQ4tkfsYkV06Wv3A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPK7CFDcdV2trg6gaSZAe2Epq5bvZNmQ+A2g30G6Q504LmAAig@mail.gmail.com>
	<CANhzkeMLsDsEgocVWmpOTvFGY4mB3w0JhkDQ4tkfsYkV06Wv3A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CDB3A3F2-CB3D-4155-8D92-2EA7F45F75DD@flash.net>

This sounds like a Jonmac question.

Sent from mobile Bill

On Apr 26, 2012, at 11:35 AM, Chris Simo <ccsimonsen at gmail.com> wrote:

> Funny - I was talking with a friend about this the other day.  He asked me
> to check the emblems on my TR2 as he had heard there were some center caps
> without the underline under Triumph and thought it was only used on the
> early TR2's....  Alas and alack - mine had the underline...
>
> Now I'm interested in hearing what the collective wisdom of the list has to
> say!
>
> On Thu, Apr 26, 2012 at 10:00 AM, Don Hiscock <don.hiscock at gmail.com>
wrote:
>
>> The majority of the enameled globes on the original hubcaps for my TR3B
had
>> the Triumph script in a diagonal line across the emblem, not the arched
>> script most commonly seen in enameled and painted globes.
>>
>> Here's an image of some of the globes from my car:
>> http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-sfZDwS2/0/L/i-sfZDwS2-L.jpg
>>
>> Standard-Triumph were nothing if not resourceful.  This style of globe had
>> to be used in a number of applications.  Is it just my limited experience,
>> or is this not at all common on sidescreen TRs?  Is it more common on some
>> other S-T model?
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From elliottr at rmi.net  Thu Apr 26 17:44:09 2012
From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott)
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2012 18:44:09 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 Alternator conversion
In-Reply-To: <EE0BE438-F533-4047-819A-BECD72F96DD7@aol.com>
References: <EE0BE438-F533-4047-819A-BECD72F96DD7@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4F99DDC9.5030300@rmi.net>

I have never purchased anything from this company, but it looks like 
they have the alternator in question in stock.

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Quality-Built/Alternator/MPA13107.html?apwcid=froogle&apw13107alqu

Roger Elliott

On 04/25/2012 11:32 PM, Sam Clark wrote:
> <snip>
> Others recommend to use a remanufactured '78 Ford Fiesta Bosch alternator
> w/55A which
> gives almost a bolt-on replacement. And I can use Dan's wiring schematics for
> the electrical hookup. My main problem is locating the Fiesta alternator.
> Does
> anyone have a specific source for this Bosch alternator with fan and pulley?
> I
> spent hours trying to locate one that is remanufactured, carrying some sort
> of
> warranty. But, I have not yet found suppliers, like AutoZone, Summit, NAPA
> nor
> Pep Boys. I don't want to search at junk yards. Does anyone have any
> recommendations?
>
> Thanking in advance,
> Jeff N.
> '72 TR6
>
> I have one under my workbench still in the box I'd sell you.  It wouldn't fit
> my GT6 because of clearance problems with the bonnet strut.  FWIW I got it
> from Rock Auto PN #13107.  I was saving it for my 72 TR6 when the factory
> Delco gives it up.
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/elliottr at rmi.net

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Thu Apr 26 17:53:06 2012
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2012 16:53:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] upper steering column support
Message-ID: <1335484386.12532.YahooMailNeo@web65510.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

Listers,
I seem to have misplaced the upper steering column support for my
tr-3.  I've noticed there were several changes to the support and I'm finding
none available at least from TRF.  Couldn't find any on the diagrams in Moss
either.  I'm wondering if anyone has one for sale.  If not it should be fairly
simple to fabricate something.

thanks

gary n.

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Thu Apr 26 18:48:49 2012
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2012 19:48:49 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 Idle adjustment fix
In-Reply-To: <4F98BD4C.2040902@bradakis.com>
References: <3B4A7248-32DF-47FF-9917-D9322431DB0A@comcast.net>
	<4F98BD4C.2040902@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <9C59CB89736948F78D603001A2A14850@GregPC>

 "Bud Rolofson wrote:
 The idle on my 6 has been a bit high (10-12k)" 
 
" Yep, 10 - 12,000 rpm is a bit high for an idle.
 
 mjb."

Must have a really big cam.

Greg Lemon

From levilevi at comcast.net  Thu Apr 26 18:55:53 2012
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2012 18:55:53 -0600
Subject: [TR] [6pack]  TR6 Idle adjustment fix
In-Reply-To: <4F98BD4C.2040902@bradakis.com>
References: <3B4A7248-32DF-47FF-9917-D9322431DB0A@comcast.net>
	<4F98BD4C.2040902@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <ABA4DFA6-7B81-44A0-B722-B1CA0AA715E0@comcast.net>

Thank goodness for rev limiters.

Guess I got carried away and used the wrong dimensions.  More like  
1000-1200 RPMs.  It helped synching them again which I'd neglected to  
do for awhile and the idle was happier.


Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net




On Apr 25, 2012, at 9:13 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote:

> Bud Rolofson wrote:
>> The idle on my 6 has been a bit high (10-12k)
>
> Yep, 10 - 12,000 rpm is a bit high for an idle.
>
> mjb.
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/levilevi at comcast.net

From Loumetelko at aol.com  Thu Apr 26 19:29:20 2012
From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2012 21:29:20 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Different TR3/3A/3B hubcap globe styles?
Message-ID: <2b279.13cdfc7d.3ccb5070@aol.com>

> Funny - I was talking with a friend about this the other  day.  He asked 
me
> to check the emblems on my TR2 as he had heard  there were some center 
caps
> without the underline under Triumph and  thought it was only used on the
> early TR2's....  Alas and alack -  mine had the underline...
 
Chris & Bill: 
All four of the nave plates on ole TS981 have the underline under Triumph  
and I was assured that these "World" badges were original.  According to  
Piggott there were two types of these badges, the early version was of the  
vitreous enamelled type but at TS13046 the more common painted type took over  
but in both cases the underline was there.  Coincidently TS13046 was also  
when the braking type was changed from Lockheed to Girling and their discs 
in  front.  
 
I have absolutely no clue what "vitreous enamelled" is but those are  
Piggott's words.
 
Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana 

From mark at bradakis.com  Thu Apr 26 19:49:54 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2012 19:49:54 -0600
Subject: [TR] [6pack]  TR6 Idle adjustment fix
In-Reply-To: <ABA4DFA6-7B81-44A0-B722-B1CA0AA715E0@comcast.net>
References: <3B4A7248-32DF-47FF-9917-D9322431DB0A@comcast.net>
	<4F98BD4C.2040902@bradakis.com>
	<ABA4DFA6-7B81-44A0-B722-B1CA0AA715E0@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4F99FB42.4000206@bradakis.com>

Bud Rolofson wrote:
> Thank goodness for rev limiters.
>
> Guess I got carried away and used the wrong dimensions.  More like 
> 1000-1200 RPMs.  It helped synching them again which I'd neglected to 
> do for awhile and the idle was happier.
We all knew what you meant, it was just fun to tease.  A TR6 motor at 
12,000 rpm?
Probably not.  But at the Asheville VTR meet J K Jackson's race car came 
down the
hill sounding like it was turning at least 9 grand - wow!

mjb.

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Apr 26 21:07:51 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2012 20:07:51 -0700
Subject: [TR] Different TR3/3A/3B hubcap globe styles?
In-Reply-To: <2b279.13cdfc7d.3ccb5070@aol.com>
References: <2b279.13cdfc7d.3ccb5070@aol.com>
Message-ID: <046701cd2422$ef525210$0601a8c0@randall>

> I have absolutely no clue what "vitreous enamelled" is but those are  
> Piggott's words.

More commonly known as cloisonne (with an accent above the 'e'), I believe.
Vitreous refers to the fact it is cured by 'firing' (heating to high
temperature), and enamel is, of course, the pigment.  A pretty effect, but
unfortunately rather fragile to be on a hub cap.

-- Randall  

From don.hiscock at gmail.com  Thu Apr 26 22:14:03 2012
From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock)
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 00:14:03 -0400
Subject: [TR] Different TR3/3A/3B hubcap globe styles?
In-Reply-To: <046701cd2422$ef525210$0601a8c0@randall>
References: <2b279.13cdfc7d.3ccb5070@aol.com>
	<046701cd2422$ef525210$0601a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <CAPK7CFC2uizps7=EX3hq3CqBd0uS+0nGVu5c77oqdmDpPJQ6OA@mail.gmail.com>

TSF202L, built April 12, 2012, had three hubcaps with the straight
diagonal, non-underlined emblems when I got it in 1981, and one with the
arched, underlined Triumph script.  It had been in a front end accident at
some point, so I can't say it came with the one oddball emblem.

The emblems are different in almost every respect.  The land masses are
much smaller on the straight Triumph emblems and show all of Australia and
British Isles are shown only as a slightly bigger spot on the chrome.  The
blue of the ocean on the straight Triumph emblems is a much lighter color
enamel, and there are nine lines of latitude and nine lines of longitude.
 The underlined, arched emblems have five lines of latitude, seven lines of
longitude, and a outsized enameled representation of the UK.

Don

PS:  Vitreous means glassy, from the Latin *vitrei*, for glass*.*  Similar
etymology to experiments run *in vitro*, meaning in glass vessels.

On Thu, Apr 26, 2012 at 11:07 PM, Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

> > I have absolutely no clue what "vitreous enamelled" is but those are
> > Piggott's words.
>
> More commonly known as cloisonne (with an accent above the 'e'), I believe.
> Vitreous refers to the fact it is cured by 'firing' (heating to high
> temperature), and enamel is, of course, the pigment.  A pretty effect, but
> unfortunately rather fragile to be on a hub cap.
>
> -- Randall
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com

From triumphs at consolidated.net  Thu Apr 26 22:56:26 2012
From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Home Consolidated)
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 00:56:26 -0400
Subject: [TR] Off to the Mitty
In-Reply-To: <20120426131734.602A42D07AB@autox.team.net>
References: <20120426131734.602A42D07AB@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <176471C7-7475-4383-8843-E6F592547159@consolidated.net>

Arrive 12:30am after 13hours in the tr3. Boy, my butt is sore.

Ken Gano

Sent from my iPad

On Apr 26, 2012, at 9:11 AM, "tfansher at comcast.net" <tfansher at comcast.net>
wrote:

> On I-75  just above Gainesville, Florida headed to Road Atlanta. Three TR6's
not far behind.  Looks like beautiful weather.
> Tom
> 73 Stag this trip
>
> Sent from my HTC on the Now Network from Sprint!
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumphs at consolidated.net

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Fri Apr 27 05:26:32 2012
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 07:26:32 -0400
Subject: [TR] Different TR3/3A/3B hubcap globe styles?
In-Reply-To: <CAPK7CFC2uizps7=EX3hq3CqBd0uS+0nGVu5c77oqdmDpPJQ6OA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <2b279.13cdfc7d.3ccb5070@aol.com>
	<046701cd2422$ef525210$0601a8c0@randall>
	<CAPK7CFC2uizps7=EX3hq3CqBd0uS+0nGVu5c77oqdmDpPJQ6OA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANhzkePTM5KUQ9hOZRP4m+6vWsTc40_5KhGMtUN76kvKTfftyw@mail.gmail.com>

http://db.tt/Umzz6Mgl

This is a link to a pic of two of my spare hub cap centers just to provide
some additional visual reference.  One is vitreous and the other I believe
is painted. Both have scripts dissimilar to the one don posted.
On Apr 27, 2012 12:24 AM, "Don Hiscock" <don.hiscock at gmail.com> wrote:

> TSF202L, built April 12, 2012, had three hubcaps with the straight
> diagonal, non-underlined emblems when I got it in 1981, and one with the
> arched, underlined Triumph script.  It had been in a front end accident at
> some point, so I can't say it came with the one oddball emblem.
>
> The emblems are different in almost every respect.  The land masses are
> much smaller on the straight Triumph emblems and show all of Australia and
> British Isles are shown only as a slightly bigger spot on the chrome.  The
> blue of the ocean on the straight Triumph emblems is a much lighter color
> enamel, and there are nine lines of latitude and nine lines of longitude.
>  The underlined, arched emblems have five lines of latitude, seven lines of
> longitude, and a outsized enameled representation of the UK.
>
> Don
>
> PS:  Vitreous means glassy, from the Latin *vitrei*, for glass*.*  Similar
> etymology to experiments run *in vitro*, meaning in glass vessels.
>
> On Thu, Apr 26, 2012 at 11:07 PM, Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
>
> > > I have absolutely no clue what "vitreous enamelled" is but those are
> > > Piggott's words.
> >
> > More commonly known as cloisonne (with an accent above the 'e'), I
> believe.
> > Vitreous refers to the fact it is cured by 'firing' (heating to high
> > temperature), and enamel is, of course, the pigment.  A pretty effect,
> but
> > unfortunately rather fragile to be on a hub cap.
> >
> > -- Randall
> >
> > ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ccsimonsen at gmail.com

From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk  Fri Apr 27 11:40:34 2012
From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 18:40:34 +0100 (BST)
Subject: [TR] Different TR3/3A/3B hubcap globe styles?
In-Reply-To: <CDB3A3F2-CB3D-4155-8D92-2EA7F45F75DD@flash.net>
References: <CAPK7CFDcdV2trg6gaSZAe2Epq5bvZNmQ+A2g30G6Q504LmAAig@mail.gmail.com>
	<CANhzkeMLsDsEgocVWmpOTvFGY4mB3w0JhkDQ4tkfsYkV06Wv3A@mail.gmail.com>
	<CDB3A3F2-CB3D-4155-8D92-2EA7F45F75DD@flash.net>
Message-ID: <1335548434.82827.YahooMailNeo@web29402.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

Oh, gawd, where did my memory go?
 
Let's put it this way. The factory parts
operation sold Triumph World emblems as accessories, though whether any made
it stateside is anyone's guess. When my GT6 Mk 2 (GT6+) was new, the rattling
Rostyle type wheelcovers drove me mad. No matter whazt you did in wedging bits
of rubber pipe between the cover and wheelrim, they soon fell out and the
rattles returned. Within 3 months of having the car, I bought four Herald hub
caps and four World emblems. The emblem perfectly fitted the centre circle so
I drilled a small hole and bolted them through. No more rattles - and I think
the car looked way better! All that said, the emblems themselves were plated
zinc with the blue and red painted in the right place for land and sea. Also,
the TRIUMPH word was underlined and top end located on the roundel. Best I can
do , Gents.
 
Jonmac


http://standard-triumph-books.co.uk
>________________________________
> From: Wbeech <wbeech at flash.net>
>To: Chris
Simo <ccsimonsen at gmail.com> 
>Cc: Triumphs <Triumphs at autox.team.net> 
>Sent:
Thursday, 26 April 2012, 18:18
>Subject: Re: [TR] Different TR3/3A/3B hubcap
globe styles?
>  
>This sounds like a Jonmac question.
>
>Sent from mobile
Bill
>
>On Apr 26, 2012, at 11:35 AM, Chris Simo <ccsimonsen at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Funny - I was talking with a friend about this the other day.  He asked
me
>> to check the emblems on my TR2 as he had heard there were some center
caps
>> without the underline under Triumph and thought it was only used on
the
>> early TR2's....  Alas and alack - mine had the underline...
>>
>> Now
I'm interested in hearing what the collective wisdom of the list has to
>>
say!
>>
>> On Thu, Apr 26, 2012 at 10:00 AM, Don Hiscock
<don.hiscock at gmail.com>
>wrote:
>>
>>> The majority of the enameled globes on
the original hubcaps for my TR3B
>had
>>> the Triumph script in a diagonal
line across the emblem, not the arched
>>> script most commonly seen in
enameled and painted globes.
>>>
>>> Here's an image of some of the globes
from my car:
>>> http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-sfZDwS2/0/L/i-sfZDwS2-L.jpg
>>>
>>> Standard-Triumph were nothing if not resourceful.  This style of globe
had
>>> to be used in a number of applications.  Is it just my limited
experience,
>>> or is this not at all common on sidescreen TRs?  Is it more
common on some
>>> other S-T model?
>>
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>>
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
Unsubscribe/Manage:
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net
>
>**
triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Fri Apr 27 13:55:23 2012
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 15:55:23 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 Alternator conversion
In-Reply-To: <mailman.15.1335549603.28083.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.15.1335549603.28083.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAJL2xS8Qce5OmzH6VzgCDbfCgAAAEAAAAIplLVjTUYZHnQstYZIjlcsBAAAAAA==@optonline.net>

There are a number of vendors on eBay stating they have Bosch Alternators
for TR6.
I have not purchased from any of them.
This is one of them.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Triumph-TR6-TR8-TR250-SPITFIRE-Alternator-Bosch-75-A
mp-/280838708587?hash=item41634a9d6b&item=280838708587&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_P
arts_Accessories&vxp=mtr
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Bob
> Does
> anyone have a specific source for this Bosch alternator with fan and
pulley?
> I
> spent hours trying to locate one that is remanufactured, carrying some 
> sort of warranty. But, I have not yet found suppliers, like AutoZone, 
> Summit, NAPA nor Pep Boys. I don't want to search at junk yards. Does 
> anyone have any recommendations?

From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com  Fri Apr 27 14:20:55 2012
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 13:20:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
Message-ID: <1335558055.13997.YahooMailNeo@web39402.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 07:26:32 -0400
From: Chris Simo <ccsimonsen at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] Different TR3/3A/3B hubcap globe styles?
http://db.tt/Umzz6Mgl
This is a link to a pic of two of my spare hub cap
centers just to provide
some additional visual reference.  One is vitreous and
the other I believe
is painted. Both have scripts dissimilar to the one don
posted.
------------------------------------    
Hi List!
I think Chris S. is
off to the mitty, so he will most likely not reply right away. But in his
picture, the one on the left looks like the TR3 enamel & the one on the right
looks like the Lat. & Lon. lines are raised. Which I was told that is the
correct one for the TR4A cars. I was also told that the TR4A emblem was made
out of plastic (Which explains why it is painted & NOT baked enamel.)  
 
Thus, I believe that the plastic is in another category in itself, & this
thread started out as TR2 -> TR3 enamel badges of when the change came about?
Lou M. or anyone else, wish to to give more input or correction?
-Cosmo
Kramer

From wbeech at flash.net  Fri Apr 27 17:27:32 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 18:27:32 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 upper Ball Joint
Message-ID: <B5569583D789489D9F95C9584C7032EF@bboffice>

I see there is quite a difference in the ball joint price between TRF and
Moss, is there is quality difference?  Or, is there another supplier that
has a superior ball joint unit for my car.  This is one place I don't mind
spending a couple of extra bucks for top quality.
 
Thanks,
Bill
 
 
Bill Beecher
'58 TR3A TS30766L "Tarbaby"
www.triumphowners.com/1566
"Hello, my name is Bill and I own an old British car.  Now...What are the
next 11 steps?"

From pbrandsema at triad.rr.com  Fri Apr 27 20:43:32 2012
From: pbrandsema at triad.rr.com (pbrandsema at triad.rr.com)
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 22:43:32 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 Oil Breather Pipe Oil Catch Tank
Message-ID: <20120428024332.IVV8P.22328.root@hrndva-web09-z01>

I'm thinking about removing the plug from the TR4 engine block and replaice with a breather pipe.  Question is if I connect a hose from the pipe to a catch tank, will the pipe be as effective? 

Paul 
61 TR4

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Fri Apr 27 20:53:42 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 22:53:42 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] THE MITTY    AND THE VTR   KASTNER CUP POSTERS
Message-ID: <8CEF3014140554F-2404-B755@webmail-d032.sysops.aol.com>

 The Kastner Cup posters have arrived .    Come to the KASTNER CUP HOSPITALITY
TENT in the PRO - PADDOCK and pick up your KCUP POSTER as a VTR and FOT
MEMBER.

We will be here all day on Saturday. There will all kinds of interesting
characters available to sign.




Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com

From team.net at Daveola.com  Sat Apr 28 06:26:32 2012
From: team.net at Daveola.com (David Ljung Madison)
Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 05:26:32 -0700
Subject: [TR] Rebuilding TR3A engine
Message-ID: <E1SO72R-0006eW-00@davesource.com>

It looks like I need to rebuild my TR3A engine (rod knocking).

It'd be nice to rebuild it right and get rid of at least the majority 
of oil leaking.  Perhaps that's a pipe dream.  Regardless, rebuilding
the engine is a bit beyond my time/abilities, so time to dump some more
money into the Triumph.

Suggestions of shops/places to either get or rebuild a TR3/TR3A engine?

Anyone have any experience with Performance Research Industries?  Looks
like they're on the expensive side, but they make a powerful engine.


Dave

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dave Ljung Madison          http://GetDave.com/                415.341.5555
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From aljlthomson at charter.net  Sat Apr 28 07:05:19 2012
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson)
Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 09:05:19 -0400
Subject: [TR] Rebuilding TR3A engine
In-Reply-To: <E1SO72R-0006eW-00@davesource.com>
References: <E1SO72R-0006eW-00@davesource.com>
Message-ID: <000001cd253f$90061ee0$b0125ca0$@charter.net>

Dave - Where are you located?
Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Ljung Madison
Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2012 8:27 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Rebuilding TR3A engine

It looks like I need to rebuild my TR3A engine (rod knocking).

It'd be nice to rebuild it right and get rid of at least the majority of oil
leaking.  Perhaps that's a pipe dream.  Regardless, rebuilding the engine is
a bit beyond my time/abilities, so time to dump some more money into the
Triumph.

Suggestions of shops/places to either get or rebuild a TR3/TR3A engine?

Anyone have any experience with Performance Research Industries?  Looks like
they're on the expensive side, but they make a powerful engine.


Dave

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dave Ljung Madison          http://GetDave.com/                415.341.5555
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net

From team.net at Daveola.com  Sat Apr 28 07:11:47 2012
From: team.net at Daveola.com (David Ljung Madison)
Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 06:11:47 -0700
Subject: [TR] Rebuilding TR3A engine
In-Reply-To: <000001cd253f$90061ee0$b0125ca0$@charter.net>
References: <E1SO72R-0006eW-00@davesource.com>
	<000001cd253f$90061ee0$b0125ca0$@charter.net>
Message-ID: <E1SO7SD-0006k2-5O@davesource.com>

> Dave - Where are you located?

Good point: San Francisco

Dave

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dave Ljung Madison          http://GetDave.com/                415.341.5555
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Sat Apr 28 07:37:35 2012
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 06:37:35 -0700
Subject: [TR] Rebuilding TR3A engine
In-Reply-To: <E1SO72R-0006eW-00@davesource.com>
References: <E1SO72R-0006eW-00@davesource.com>
Message-ID: <4F9BF29F.5030707@gmail.com>

Area code 415. My guess is that you are in driving distance of Santa 
Cruz, CA.  I highly recommend Greg Solow's Engine Room in Santa Cruz.  
They have a LOT of experience with the TR four cylinder engine from pure 
stock to full race builds in TRs & Morgans.

They rebuilt my TR3's engine for me years ago, summer before last did a 
rack and pinion conversion for me and just last summer put in a new 
limited slip diff for me.  They know what they are doing.

On 4/28/12 5:26 AM, David Ljung Madison wrote:
> Suggestions of shops/places to either get or rebuild a TR3/TR3A engine?
>
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Dave Ljung Madison          http://GetDave.com/                415.341.5555
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From wbeech at flash.net  Sat Apr 28 10:21:41 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 11:21:41 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 Oil Breather Pipe Oil Catch Tank
In-Reply-To: <20120428024332.IVV8P.22328.root@hrndva-web09-z01>
References: <20120428024332.IVV8P.22328.root@hrndva-web09-z01>
Message-ID: <3D425E57197145D89954C28477195A2D@bboffice>

The pipe would be effective as long as there is free air flow at the end.
Ques: Why not just go with the TR3 pipe set up?
Bill

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
pbrandsema at triad.rr.com
Sent: Friday, April 27, 2012 9:44 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR4 Oil Breather Pipe Oil Catch Tank

I'm thinking about removing the plug from the TR4 engine block and replaice
with a breather pipe.  Question is if I connect a hose from the pipe to a
catch tank, will the pipe be as effective? 

Paul
61 TR4

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From mark at bradakis.com  Sat Apr 28 13:21:38 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 13:21:38 -0600
Subject: [TR] Team.Net web server
Message-ID: <4F9C4342.9000605@bradakis.com>

While working on one problem I accidently caused another, as anyone who
tried to get to the forums, the mailman admin page, the donate link or
whatever during the last 12 hours or so would know.

The server is now responding, though the problems I was working on
are still unresolved.

I'd rather be at The Mitty!

mjb.

From JPayne at ThorCon.net  Sat Apr 28 14:13:38 2012
From: JPayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne)
Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 20:13:38 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR Overdrive in reverse.
Message-ID: <5891B364A7C3594B9466304B59E65B1C18880AE6@ex1mbx01.onthenetoffice.com>

I believe that one of my electic OD switches failed "not safe", and I backed
my car out of the garage in reverse with the OD engaged.  It is my
understanding from the guys on the healey web that this is "very bad".

I am now suffering some "binding/lurching" when in first or reverse, and have
been pushing the car around in fear of doing any damage.

It would appear that the unit is coming out again, but exactly what does
driving an OD in reverse do that is so bad?


Jonas Payne
PBR
Cell:   (702) 358-5084

From team.net at Daveola.com  Sat Apr 28 17:13:40 2012
From: team.net at Daveola.com (David Ljung Madison)
Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 16:13:40 -0700
Subject: [TR] Rebuilding TR3A engine
In-Reply-To: <4F9BF29F.5030707@gmail.com>
References: <4F9BF29F.5030707@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <E1SOGsz-0007zT-Ot@davesource.com>

TeriAnn writes:
> I highly recommend Greg Solow's Engine Room in Santa Cruz.
> 
> They rebuilt my TR3's engine for me years ago,..

I read about that on your "restoration horror story" :)
I'll have to give them a call, didn't realize that all happened
near the Bay Area.

> ..did a rack and pinion conversion for me

Interesting - that's high on my list as well, I was thinking about doing 
it myself, but time is in limited supply right now.  How long did the
rebuild take and how long did the R&P take?


Dave

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dave Ljung Madison          http://GetDave.com/                415.341.5555
------------ Okay Scotty, very funny..  Now beam down my clothes ----------

From peterara at msn.com  Sat Apr 28 17:46:03 2012
From: peterara at msn.com (Peter Arakelian)
Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 16:46:03 -0700
Subject: [TR] slipping out of third
Message-ID: <COL122-DS90021DAFE3EB6681AA286C12A0@phx.gbl>

I have a 71 TR6 non-overdrive transmission. When I am in third, decelerating
down hill, on occasion, it will slip out of gear. Not pop out, but
occasionally slide out - it feels like I just stepped on the clutch.  No other
problems with transmission.  Goes through all gears fine - up and down.  No
noise, no grinding.  Only the occasional slide out of third.
Diagnosis?

Peter Arakelian

From JPayne at ThorCon.net  Sat Apr 28 17:55:18 2012
From: JPayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne)
Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 23:55:18 +0000
Subject: [TR] slipping out of third
In-Reply-To: <COL122-DS90021DAFE3EB6681AA286C12A0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL122-DS90021DAFE3EB6681AA286C12A0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <5891B364A7C3594B9466304B59E65B1C18883C4E@ex1mbx01.onthenetoffice.com>

Sounds like your detent springs are done.


Jonas Payne
PBR
Cell:   (702) 358-5084

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Peter Arakelian
Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2012 4:46 PM
To: Listers
Subject: [TR] slipping out of third

I have a 71 TR6 non-overdrive transmission. When I am in third, decelerating
down hill, on occasion, it will slip out of gear. Not pop out, but
occasionally slide out - it feels like I just stepped on the clutch.  No other
problems with transmission.  Goes through all gears fine - up and down.  No
noise, no grinding.  Only the occasional slide out of third.
Diagnosis?

Peter Arakelian

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jpayne at thorcon.net

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Apr 28 19:14:47 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 18:14:47 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR Overdrive in reverse.
In-Reply-To: <5891B364A7C3594B9466304B59E65B1C18880AE6@ex1mbx01.onthenetoffice.com>
References: <5891B364A7C3594B9466304B59E65B1C18880AE6@ex1mbx01.onthenetoffice.com>
Message-ID: <063e01cd25a5$785377a0$0601a8c0@randall>

> It would appear that the unit is coming out again, but 
> exactly what does
> driving an OD in reverse do that is so bad?

There is a one-way roller clutch (aka sprag clutch) in the tail housing that
prevents the output shaft from turning any slower than the input (to the
overdrive).  However, when you try to back up with the OD engaged, the OD
clutch and gears force the sprag clutch to turn backwards.  

I've only seen photos of the resulting damage, but it looked pretty bad.
The outer race of the sprag clutch had broken, taking the tail housing with
it.

However, unless it felt like you were backing over a curb, or you felt a big
lurch, most likely the OD didn't have enough pressure built to force the
clutch backwards.

Before you pull the gearbox & OD, I'd check that there isn't something else
going on.

-- Randall  

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Sat Apr 28 19:21:25 2012
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 18:21:25 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR Sighting - Tehachapi Willow Springs
Message-ID: <1335662485.28023.YahooMailRC@web83304.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     So today after doing maintenance along the PCT (Pacific Crest Trail) with 
the Boy Scouts I was driving down Tehachapi Willow Springs road and encountered 
the glorious sight of about 9 TR's all driving in a row. They were in numeric 
order with the 3's in front and the 6's in back. You guys looked great and I 
wanted to join you but was wearing a Boy Scout assistant scoutmaster uniform and 
was driving a Honda...
     Were any of the drivers listers? Who were you guys? Where had you guys 
been? Tehachapi for lunch (a good spot) maybe? Buttonwillow isn't until next 
week, so it wasn't that.
     I wish that I had taken a photo you guys looked so good.
     If anyone reading this was there, let me know who you were. I might even 
have to join your club. My club is dominated by retirees driving new Jaguars.

     Bill Brewer
     Tehachapi, CA

From blambert at socal.rr.com  Sat Apr 28 19:47:31 2012
From: blambert at socal.rr.com (D&B Lambert)
Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 18:47:31 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR Sighting - Tehachapi Willow Springs
In-Reply-To: <1335662485.28023.YahooMailRC@web83304.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <1335662485.28023.YahooMailRC@web83304.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4A444AEC588A4A5DB3211C0BCF50392B@Lambert1>

Hi Bill,

What I imagine you saw was the "Poppy Run" involving members from two
Triumph Clubs: Triumph Register of Southern California (TRSC), and Southern
California Triumph Owners Association (SCTOA).  I wasn't able to make it
today, but those that went left from Valencia, traveled to Tehachapi via
back roads for lunch, and back.  The mission was to see the poppies, but I
understand that due the lack of timely rainfall this year poppies are in
short supply.  
You can see a few pictures of the run on Facebook; just search "TRSC" (no
quotes).
Below are links to each club's website.  Either club would be happy if you
joined, I'm sure.  Both are great clubs. 

http://www.trsc1977.com/

http://web.mac.com/sctoa/SCTOA/Welcome.html

Regards, Dennis




> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-
> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer
> Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2012 6:21 PM
> To: Triumphs
> Subject: [TR] TR Sighting - Tehachapi Willow Springs
> 
>      So today after doing maintenance along the PCT (Pacific Crest Trail)
with
> the Boy Scouts I was driving down Tehachapi Willow Springs road and
> encountered
> the glorious sight of about 9 TR's all driving in a row. They were in
numeric
> order with the 3's in front and the 6's in back. You guys looked great and
I
> wanted to join you but was wearing a Boy Scout assistant scoutmaster
> uniform and
> was driving a Honda...
>      Were any of the drivers listers? Who were you guys? Where had you
guys
> been? Tehachapi for lunch (a good spot) maybe? Buttonwillow isn't until
next
> week, so it wasn't that.
>      I wish that I had taken a photo you guys looked so good.
>      If anyone reading this was there, let me know who you were. I might
even
> have to join your club. My club is dominated by retirees driving new
Jaguars.
> 
>      Bill Brewer
>      Tehachapi, CA
> 
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/blambert at socal.rr.com

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Apr 28 20:09:11 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 19:09:11 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR Sighting - Tehachapi Willow Springs
In-Reply-To: <1335662485.28023.YahooMailRC@web83304.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <1335662485.28023.YahooMailRC@web83304.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <064a01cd25ad$11dbf490$0601a8c0@randall>

Hi Bill,

You missed the rest of the group: 8 more TRs and a Jensen Healey.

I was kind of surprised you didn't join us for the run, guess you were busy
with the Scouts.  We started near the Valencia country club and took back
roads all the way to the Apple Shed for lunch.  Not as many poppies as I had
hoped, but it was still a very nice run.  Lots of sunshine and pretty
country (although it did get chilly enough for a jacket coming through the
pass).

After lunch we broke up; I drove on up to look at the Tehachapi loop, then
took the freeways back down to Angeles Crest highway and drove over those
mountains as well.

Unfortunately my OD crapped out; I'm guessing it has a broken wire inside
the solenoid since it first started buzzing, then worked for a bit, then
stopped altogether.

Anyone have any suggestions for how to change an A-type solenoid without
removing the trans tunnel?

-- Randall  

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Sat Apr 28 22:39:50 2012
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 21:39:50 -0700
Subject: [TR] Rebuilding TR3A engine
In-Reply-To: <E1SOGsz-0007zT-Ot@davesource.com>
References: <4F9BF29F.5030707@gmail.com>
  <E1SOGsz-0007zT-Ot@davesource.com>
Message-ID: <4F9CC616.9060604@gmail.com>

On 4/28/12 4:13 PM, David Ljung Madison wrote:
>
> TeriAnn writes:
>> I highly recommend Greg Solow's Engine Room in Santa Cruz.
>>
>> They rebuilt my TR3's engine for me years ago,..
> I read about that on your "restoration horror story" :)
> I'll have to give them a call, didn't realize that all happened
> near the Bay Area.
I was living in Aptos on the Monterey bay area.  The body shop that did 
such a lousy job is in Santa Clara near the airport. The drive train 
work was farmed out to The Engine Room in Santa Cruz.  I was not about 
to rebuild an engine outside in the dirt.

I have since moved to Flagstaff, home of the 2012 Triumphest next 
September.  I have no excuse to miss this one.
>
>> ..did a rack and pinion conversion for me
> Interesting - that's high on my list as well, I was thinking about doing
> it myself, but time is in limited supply right now.  How long did the
> rebuild take and how long did the R&P take?

Check with the Engine Room to get an idea of how long the engine rebuild 
will take.  A lot depends upon what you have done. For instance it took 
a while to have my crank nitrided and the engine has a lot of 
interesting things in it and done to it.  I'm sure a straight stock 
rebuild would go a lot quicker.

Also the R&P was their first conversion.  If you use the Moss conversion 
like I did it would likely go quicker the second time around.  But I had 
other work done at the same time so it took longer.  new valves, new cam 
& lifters because the new oil formulation didn't protect it (I now focus 
on high ZDDP oils), new timing chain, gears and front housing as well.

If you leave the car with them they could do the rack & pinion 
conversion the same time they do the engine & not take any extra time.

Take care,

TeriAnn

From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com  Sun Apr 29 02:40:47 2012
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2012 01:40:47 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR4 Oil Breather Pipe Oil Catch Tank
Message-ID: <1335688847.31722.YahooMailNeo@web39406.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Paul wrote:
Subject: TR4 Oil Breather Pipe Oil Catch Tank
Date: Fri, 27 Apr
2012 
From: <pbrandsema at triad.rr.com>

I'm thinking about removing the plug
from the TR4 engine block and replace with a breather pipe.  Question is if I
connect a hose from the pipe to a catch tank, will the pipe be as effective?
-Paul 
------------------------- +++++++++++ -------------
Hi Paul!
You are
really talking about changing the breathing system. So to answer this question
more in detail, I would need to know more on how your breathing system is set
up now. The TR4 made changes to this system two or three different times in
that model.
 
Well, as I remember the TR4 stock engine set up, the air enters
in through the Oil Filler Cap & possibly out of the Valve Cover (VC). Now
depending on the year of the car, when it was made (check the Vin #), to what
changes TRIUMPH made on the breathing system. 
1- I have seen VC's plugged &
the TR3 breathing pipe. But I doubt that's what you have in your set up
because you have mentioned about removing the plug to install a breathing tube
to go into an ?Oil Tank? (I would like more info. on where you were putting
this tank, how, & what ways you were planning on doing this.)
2- A tube out of
the VC & into the center of each air filter.
3- A tube out of the VC & into
the 'Gulp Valve' & then into the Intake Manifold (like that of the TR4A's
system).
 
As it was stated by Bill in his reply, you should have some venting
system coming out of the tank so the 'Blow-by Gasses' (BBG) have a way to
escape to reduce back pressure.
 
In one of Kas's books, Joe A. tried having
the 'BBG' go into the Exhaust System Which I tried, but had problems with the
tube melting because of the heat. I'm still working on this project (to work
out the details future).
 
What exactly is your purpose of installing this
tank?
Please reply or phone me (716-438-3769) after 19:00 & I'd be more that
willing to talk to you on what I've done so far & how that I may be of
service. I really don't want to type all the details because of using up the
lists limited space with pictures & not having this E-mail go through.
-Cosmo
Kramer

From guy at genfiniti.com  Sun Apr 29 06:08:08 2012
From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins)
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2012 07:08:08 -0500
Subject: [TR] slipping out of third
In-Reply-To: <COL122-DS90021DAFE3EB6681AA286C12A0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL122-DS90021DAFE3EB6681AA286C12A0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <5C1DF201-1952-493F-8E42-154B36657595@genfiniti.com>

Peter,

I have roughly 2500 miles on a freshly rebuilt gearbox and have the same
issue.
If I am in third, and keep my foot off the pedal, allowing the car to
decelerate, in often comes out of gear.
You are not alone, and I don't think this is rare, or really a problem.

I will follow this thread with great interest.


On Apr 28, 2012, at 6:46 PM, Peter Arakelian wrote:

> I have a 71 TR6 non-overdrive transmission. When I am in third,
decelerating
> down hill, on occasion, it will slip out of gear. Not pop out, but
> occasionally slide out - it feels like I just stepped on the clutch.  No
other
> problems with transmission.  Goes through all gears fine - up and down.  No
> noise, no grinding.  Only the occasional slide out of third.
> Diagnosis?
>
> Peter Arakelian
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/guy at genfiniti.com

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Sun Apr 29 07:34:56 2012
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2012 09:34:56 -0400
Subject: [TR] slipping out of third
In-Reply-To: <5C1DF201-1952-493F-8E42-154B36657595@genfiniti.com>
References: <COL122-DS90021DAFE3EB6681AA286C12A0@phx.gbl>
	<5C1DF201-1952-493F-8E42-154B36657595@genfiniti.com>
Message-ID: <4C64D3D32D2F46E3BA0122EA922DF052@DCH6RFC1>

I don't think you can say "or really a problem". These cars have their
quirks, but slipping out of gear is not one of them.  

I had my TR250 gearbox rebuilt by Racetorations in the UK and when 
I drove the car for the first time last month, it slipped out of gear.
Racetorations is flying one of their guys out to Michigan to pull the
gearbox and fix the problem.

Andrew Uprichard


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of G.D. Huggins
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2012 8:08 AM
To: Peter Arakelian
Cc: Listers
Subject: Re: [TR] slipping out of third

Peter,

I have roughly 2500 miles on a freshly rebuilt gearbox and have the same
issue.
If I am in third, and keep my foot off the pedal, allowing the car to
decelerate, in often comes out of gear.
You are not alone, and I don't think this is rare, or really a problem.

I will follow this thread with great interest.


On Apr 28, 2012, at 6:46 PM, Peter Arakelian wrote:

> I have a 71 TR6 non-overdrive transmission. When I am in third,
decelerating
> down hill, on occasion, it will slip out of gear. Not pop out, but
> occasionally slide out - it feels like I just stepped on the clutch.  No
other
> problems with transmission.  Goes through all gears fine - up and down.
No
> noise, no grinding.  Only the occasional slide out of third.
> Diagnosis?
>
> Peter Arakelian
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/guy at genfiniti.com

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Apr 29 07:54:01 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2012 06:54:01 -0700
Subject: [TR] slipping out of third
In-Reply-To: <5C1DF201-1952-493F-8E42-154B36657595@genfiniti.com>
References: <COL122-DS90021DAFE3EB6681AA286C12A0@phx.gbl>
	<5C1DF201-1952-493F-8E42-154B36657595@genfiniti.com>
Message-ID: <06c901cd260f$88a51ea0$0601a8c0@randall>

> If I am in third, and keep my foot off the pedal, allowing the car to
> decelerate, in often comes out of gear.

It's been a few years back, but a friend of mine had the same problem.
After returning the box to the rebuilder twice, she took it to Herman van
den Akker, who after much investigation discovered that the dog teeth didn't
match the sleeves.  Installing parts that match solved the problem.

http://trf.zeni.net/TR6bluebook/index.php?page=85

Might not be your problem (Guy or Peter), but I would definitely check
(right after checking the detent force).

Unfortunately, the only way I know to check is to tear the gearbox down
again.  Even with the gears in your hands, you have to look close to see the
differences.

Randall

From hdrider570 at att.net  Sun Apr 29 07:58:01 2012
From: hdrider570 at att.net (Q)
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2012 06:58:01 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Subject:  slipping out of third
Message-ID: <1335707881.94163.YahooMailClassic@web181018.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

I have had similar problems with a few Tr4 transmissions in the past.  It is often an indication that the shifter detent springs are too soft.  

You can add shims (I used small washers) to bring the pressure back up.  I use a fish scale on the shift rods to check the tension.  It can be done with the trans in the car but you will need to remove the trans tunnel.  

There is a factory service notice about this for Tr4 as they changed the detent pin type to increase the resistence.  A Tr6 should have been built with the upgraded parts unless someone in the murky past has changed to a TR4 shifter or trans in your car.

Edward Hamer
Petaluma CA

From terryrs at comcast.net  Sun Apr 29 09:38:53 2012
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2012 15:38:53 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Bonderize?
In-Reply-To: <06c901cd260f$88a51ea0$0601a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <606971642.1534284.1335713933432.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Camshaft came back from the machine shop.  But the lobes weren't polished.  They have this black stuff all over them and it looks fairly gritty.  The book I'm using says "if the camshaft has been reground, degrease thoroughly, bonderize, and soak in graphite."

What the heck is bonderize?  And shouldn't the machine shop have polizhed the lobes?  ...Or is it polished, but just being protected by something I have to take off somehow?

No telling, not knowing!

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com  Sun Apr 29 09:47:13 2012
From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly)
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2012 08:47:13 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 Fan Balancing
Message-ID: <000001cd261f$59095d40$0b1c17c0$@rr.com>

I am removing my eight blade fan and returning to the original four blade
metal one. The metal one had been sitting in the bin for 10 years, so I
bought the fan mounting kit and discovered the balancing piece. How is it
used? How do I know if I need it? 

 

I couldn't find anything in the two manuals I have, except to have them say
to replace it the way it came off (that's real helpful).

 

Johnnie

From terryrs at comcast.net  Sun Apr 29 09:47:35 2012
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2012 15:47:35 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR3A Front Cam Bearing
In-Reply-To: <06c901cd260f$88a51ea0$0601a8c0@randall>
Message-ID: <1222875884.1534563.1335714455338.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

About this front bearing for the cam, I normally replace all bearings in a rebuild, but this doesn't actually look like a bearing at all.  No babbit, for one, or at least what I grew up calling the material that faces the moving part.  

...Or do the other three bearings in the block control the spin, and the front bearing just the back and forth drift?

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A  TS 58667
New Hampshire

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Apr 29 09:54:28 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2012 08:54:28 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A Front Cam Bearing
In-Reply-To: <1222875884.1534563.1335714455338.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <06c901cd260f$88a51ea0$0601a8c0@randall>
	<1222875884.1534563.1335714455338.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <06f701cd2620$5c815080$0601a8c0@randall>

The front cam bearing takes more side force than the other 3, as it also
takes the force from the chain turning the cam.  Check it for wear.  If not
too badly worn, you can reuse it.  But it's replaceable because it does
wear. 

-- Randall  

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Apr 29 10:03:33 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2012 09:03:33 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 Fan Balancing
In-Reply-To: <000001cd261f$59095d40$0b1c17c0$@rr.com>
References: <000001cd261f$59095d40$0b1c17c0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <06f801cd2621$a12c6570$0601a8c0@randall>

> I am removing my eight blade fan and returning to the 
> original four blade
> metal one. The metal one had been sitting in the bin for 10 
> years, so I
> bought the fan mounting kit and discovered the balancing 
> piece. How is it
> used? How do I know if I need it? 

You'll need a balancing jig, to balance the fan/hub/pulley assembly.  HF
sells one for balancing motorcycle tires (but the one I got had a stiff
bearing that had to be replaced).

Instructions are in the TR3 workshop manual, page C9.
http://tinyurl.com/83x4e45

After all that, mine seemed to be adequately balanced without any weights.
But it still didn't cool enough in prolonged stop-and-go traffic, so I
eventually installed an electric fan instead.

-- Randall  

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Apr 29 10:05:14 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2012 09:05:14 -0700
Subject: [TR] Bonderize?
In-Reply-To: <606971642.1534284.1335713933432.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <06c901cd260f$88a51ea0$0601a8c0@randall>
	<606971642.1534284.1335713933432.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <06f901cd2621$dd64a7f0$0601a8c0@randall>

> Camshaft came back from the machine shop.  But the lobes 
> weren't polished.  They have this black stuff all over them 
> and it looks fairly gritty.

I'd ask the machine shop what it is.  Chances are that it's graphite or
similar; but why take a chance?

-- Randall  

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Sun Apr 29 10:56:24 2012
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2012 12:56:24 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 Heater leak test
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAAAokWe7nBZPoA+vt51ClezCgAAAEAAAALQFH73RyxdLtM91lmPo4q4BAAAAAA==@verizon.net>

I need to test the heater core before I install it.   Any do's don'ts?   Is
there any issue with hooking up a hose to both sides and let water flow
through?  I would think that it shouldn't be 'closed' at the other end
because I believe the pressure would be too high.

Thanks
Carl


1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 
Still being restored - but 2012 looks like the year..

From kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Sun Apr 29 11:22:10 2012
From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer)
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2012 10:22:10 -0700
Subject: [TR] Rebuilding TR3A engine
In-Reply-To: <4F9BF29F.5030707@gmail.com>
References: <E1SO72R-0006eW-00@davesource.com>
  <4F9BF29F.5030707@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <001d01cd262c$9c6602c0$d5320840$@net>

You can also try Dave at British Motorsports in Campbell
http://www.britishmotorsportsinc.com/ or Vern at Vern's Autoclinic in
Fremont 
http://www.vernsautoclinic.com/ Vern doesn't specialize in British cars, but
has a lot of experience.
Bob

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TeriAnn J. Wakeman
Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2012 6:38 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Rebuilding TR3A engine

Area code 415. My guess is that you are in driving distance of Santa Cruz,
CA.  I highly recommend Greg Solow's Engine Room in Santa Cruz.  
They have a LOT of experience with the TR four cylinder engine from pure
stock to full race builds in TRs & Morgans.

They rebuilt my TR3's engine for me years ago, summer before last did a rack
and pinion conversion for me and just last summer put in a new limited slip
diff for me.  They know what they are doing.

On 4/28/12 5:26 AM, David Ljung Madison wrote:
> Suggestions of shops/places to either get or rebuild a TR3/TR3A engine?
>
>
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Dave Ljung Madison          http://GetDave.com/
415.341.5555
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> ---- 

From wbeech at flash.net  Sun Apr 29 13:26:11 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2012 14:26:11 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 Heater leak test
In-Reply-To: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAAAokWe7nBZPoA+vt51ClezCgAAAEAAAALQFH73RyxdLtM91lmPo4q4BAAAAAA==@verizon.net>
References: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAAAokWe7nBZPoA+vt51ClezCgAAAEAAAALQFH73RyxdLtM91lmPo4q4BAAAAAA==@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <DBCAF2AAB6D445588068C3E01BE1EBA6@bboffice>

Yes, pressure from your garden hose would be too much, probably around
40-50psi.  Just running water through it would not hurt it, but may not find
a small leak either.  

You could fill it an let it stand overnight and see if there is any seepage,
or take it to a local radiator shop and let them test it at a low pressure,
remember you cap is only a 4psi rating.

Bill 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl TR
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2012 11:56 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3 Heater leak test

I need to test the heater core before I install it.   Any do's don'ts?   Is
there any issue with hooking up a hose to both sides and let water flow
through?  I would think that it shouldn't be 'closed' at the other end
because I believe the pressure would be too high.

Thanks
Carl


1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/
Still being restored - but 2012 looks like the year..

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Sun Apr 29 13:31:05 2012
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2012 15:31:05 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 Heater leak test
In-Reply-To: <DBCAF2AAB6D445588068C3E01BE1EBA6@bboffice>
References: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAAAokWe7nBZPoA+vt51ClezCgAAAEAAAALQFH73RyxdLtM91lmPo4q4BAAAAAA==@verizon.net>
	<DBCAF2AAB6D445588068C3E01BE1EBA6@bboffice>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAAAokWe7nBZPoA+vt51ClezCgAAAEAAAACEjTonC2iBNmJ3jMUrmIN4BAAAAAA==@verizon.net>

Thanks Bill - you confirmed my concerns.... Will find a rad shop tomorrow.
C

1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/ 
Still being restored - but 2012 looks like the year..



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of wbeech at flash.net
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2012 3:26 PM
To: cfmtr3a at verizon.net; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Heater leak test

Yes, pressure from your garden hose would be too much, probably around
40-50psi.  Just running water through it would not hurt it, but may not find
a small leak either.  

You could fill it an let it stand overnight and see if there is any seepage,
or take it to a local radiator shop and let them test it at a low pressure,
remember you cap is only a 4psi rating.

Bill 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl TR
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2012 11:56 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3 Heater leak test

I need to test the heater core before I install it.   Any do's don'ts?   Is
there any issue with hooking up a hose to both sides and let water flow
through?  I would think that it shouldn't be 'closed' at the other end
because I believe the pressure would be too high.

Thanks
Carl


1961 Triumph TR3A - TS81802LO
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/
Still being restored - but 2012 looks like the year..

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net

From elliottr at rmi.net  Sun Apr 29 14:13:08 2012
From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott)
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2012 15:13:08 -0500
Subject: [TR] Spitfire Turn Signals
Message-ID: <4F9DA0D4.3000404@rmi.net>

Hi,

I am hoping someone can help me with a puzzle I am having about the turn 
signals not working.   I struggle to diagnose electrical problems.

The turn signals on both sides of my 80 Spitfire stopped working.  The 
hazard flashers also stopped working.   All of my fuses are okay and 
things on the same fuse as the turn signals work.

Knowing that the turnsignal and hazard flashers both run through the 
hazard switch,  I pulled the hazard switch several times  and got it so 
that the hazard flasher would work part of the time - the turn signals 
still never worked.

I got the hazard switch and cleaned each contact.  Now the hazard 
flashers work reliably.  Turn signals still don't.

There appear to be two power wires going to the hazard switch.  Purple 
had power all of the time and green when ignition is on.  If I jump 
between the purple and green, the turn signals work. With the jumper 
removed they still don't work.

It looks like the powered green wire comes from the voltage stabilizer.  
There is continuity between the voltage stabilizer and the green wire in 
the hazard switch.

So, I am at a loss.

The turn signals works when the purple and green wire are jumped.  So, I 
have ruled out the switch and the relay.

The fuse is fine.

The lights all light up appropriately when using either the hazard 
flasher or jumped turn signals. So lights and grounds seem to be okay.

There is continuity between the voltage regulator and the green wire at 
the hazard switch.   Though when I check for voltage at the green wire, 
there isn't any.   I expected voltage, but not sure how there can't be 
since there is continuity with the voltage stabilizer and there is power 
to the stabilizer.


Any suggestions on what the problem is?   (besides my lack of electronic 
knowledge :))

Thanks,
Roger Elliott
1980 Spitfire

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Sun Apr 29 15:24:54 2012
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2012 14:24:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] overdrive in reverse
Message-ID: <1335734694.76731.YahooMailNeo@web65511.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

If it's some consolation I also was in a position with my tr-6.  I'd loaned it
out to a high school kid for prom.  (I KNEW I should have unplugged the wiring
for the overdrive)  Any way he parked it in front of my garage and left.  I
got in and found it was still in overdrive.  I COULD NOT get it out of gear or
overdrive.  Pushed the clutch in and no difference.  nothing worked.  I
finally gritted my teeth and backed up about 5-6 feet just enough to get
turned and going forward.  The backing up was excruciating because it did buck
and bind something awful.
I got turned around and drove forward and clicked it
out of overdrive and unplugged it and never used it for a year.  I never even
tested it!  Then a year later I plugged it in............tested it and it
worked!  Have been using it ever since.  very very grateful for actually
having dodged a bullet, which doesn't happen often!

sooo you might not be as
bad off as you think.

gary n.

From fishplate at charter.net  Sun Apr 29 15:50:25 2012
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff)
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2012 17:50:25 -0400
Subject: [TR] Spitfire Turn Signals
In-Reply-To: <4F9DA0D4.3000404@rmi.net>
References: <4F9DA0D4.3000404@rmi.net>
Message-ID: <4F9DB7A1.8000406@charter.net>

On 4/29/2012 4:13 PM, Roger Elliott wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I am hoping someone can help me with a puzzle I am having about the 
> turn signals not working.   I struggle to diagnose electrical problems.

All right, let's go!

Have you studied this?  
http://www.triumphspitfire.com/images/wiring/78diagram.jpg

The purple wire is hot all the time.  This provides current to operate 
the flashers independent of the ignition switch.  (So they'll work while 
you walk to the gas station).

The green wire is hot with the ignition on - and all the current goes 
through the ignition switch.  The voltage stabiliser is merely a stop on 
the way - the current for the turn signal does not pass through it.

I've never taken one apart, but I /assume/ that the emergency flasher 
switch connects the two sides together, and energises the flasher (via 
the purple wire) so they blink.  When not flashing, it allows the 
current from the green wire to pass through to the flasher, then on to 
the turn signal switch and the lamps.


If I understand you correctly, you have power att eh green wire when the 
ignition is on.  You should also then have power on the light green/gray 
wire going to the flasher.  If not, the problem is probably internal to 
your flasher switch.  You can get some contact cleaner and spray it 
inside while operating the switch repeatedly - you may have to remove it 
to do this.


Most of the problems I've seen with these switches (and dimmer 
rheostats) is due to the fact that they are almost never used, and 
develop a good coating of schmutz, which prevents them form making good 
contact.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Apr 29 15:59:01 2012
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2012 17:59:01 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Spitfire Turn Signals
Message-ID: <5cfc.14d7259c.3ccf13a5@cs.com>

The power for the turn signals also powers other items as you noted.  
Including the gauges which are powered by the voltage stabilizer.  Triumph liked 
to daisy chain loads on a common circuit so the power would be fed to one 
device and then on to another and another, etc.  Just what the sequence is 
something to be determined through examination, but the things on that fused 
circuit include the heater, wipers, reverse lights, brake lights and gauges.  
If all these things work then the next place to look is the flasher.

There are two flashers on your car (all cars with the emergency flashers)  
The turn signals and the emergency flashers each use its own flasher so the 
fact that the EME flashers work doesn't absolve the turn signal flasher.

I don't know where that flasher is on a Spitfire but look for a flasher 
with a green wire (as opposed to the purple wire).

Good luck.

Dave

In a message dated 4/29/2012 3:14:58 PM Central Daylight Time, 
elliottr at rmi.net writes: 
> I am hoping someone can help me with a puzzle I am having about the turn 
> signals not working.   I struggle to diagnose electrical problems.
> 
> The turn signals on both sides of my 80 Spitfire stopped working.  The 
> hazard flashers also stopped working.   All of my fuses are okay and 
> things on the same fuse as the turn signals work.
> 
> Knowing that the turnsignal and hazard flashers both run through the 
> hazard switch,  I pulled the hazard switch several times  and got it so 
> that the hazard flasher would work part of the time - the turn signals 
> still never worked.
> 
> I got the hazard switch and cleaned each contact.  Now the hazard 
> flashers work reliably.  Turn signals still don't.
> 
> There appear to be two power wires going to the hazard switch.  Purple 
> had power all of the time and green when ignition is on.  If I jump 
> between the purple and green, the turn signals work. With the jumper 
> removed they still don't work.
> 
> It looks like the powered green wire comes from the voltage stabilizer.  
> There is continuity between the voltage stabilizer and the green wire in 
> the hazard switch.
> 
> So, I am at a loss.
> 
> The turn signals works when the purple and green wire are jumped.  So, I 
> have ruled out the switch and the relay.
> 
> The fuse is fine.
> 
> The lights all light up appropriately when using either the hazard 
> flasher or jumped turn signals. So lights and grounds seem to be okay.
> 
> There is continuity between the voltage regulator and the green wire at 
> the hazard switch.   Though when I check for voltage at the green wire, 
> there isn't any.   I expected voltage, but not sure how there can't be 
> since there is continuity with the voltage stabilizer and there is power 
> to the stabilizer.
> 
> 
> Any suggestions on what the problem is?   (besides my lack of electronic 
> knowledge :))

From zoboherald at aol.com  Sun Apr 29 16:54:14 2012
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace)
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2012 18:54:14 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Bonderize?
In-Reply-To: <606971642.1534284.1335713933432.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <606971642.1534284.1335713933432.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <8CEF472224755AA-F34-1774C@webmail-d180.sysops.aol.com>

 To "Bonderize" is simply to coat something in (usually) a phosphate solution
for rust protection. Maybe that coating is why the cam lobes don't look to be
polished?



--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us




-----Original Message-----
From: terryrs <terryrs at comcast.net>

What the heck is bonderize?

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Apr 29 19:48:54 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2012 18:48:54 -0700
Subject: [TR] Spitfire Turn Signals
In-Reply-To: <4F9DA0D4.3000404@rmi.net>
References: <4F9DA0D4.3000404@rmi.net>
Message-ID: <07a401cd2673$66b4ec80$0601a8c0@randall>

> There is continuity between the voltage regulator and the 
> green wire at 
> the hazard switch.   Though when I check for voltage at the 
> green wire, 
> there isn't any. 

Checking for continuity is always a tricky business, especially with other
things connected to the circuit.  The "continuity" you see may be through
those devices and ground; or may be too high resistance to operate the load.
(For example, many continuity testers will show 10 ohms or so as a
connection; but 10 ohms is much too high to power turn signals.)

If there is no voltage on the green wire with the ignition on, then the
problem is somewhere between where you are checking and the battery.  Since
presumably the gauges powered by the voltage stabilizer do work, the problem
must be between that point and the stabilizer.  Could be a broken wire, but
my money is on the tab on the VS being broken, corroded, or simply not
connected properly.  (It is sometimes easy to slide the blade between the
terminal and the plastic covering, which can sometimes make a connection
that will show continuity but not pass enough power to actually run
anything.)

-- Randall  

From leejohn7 at gmail.com  Sun Apr 29 21:00:59 2012
From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard)
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2012 20:00:59 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 Oil Breather Pipe Oil Catch Tank
In-Reply-To: <3D425E57197145D89954C28477195A2D@bboffice>
References: <20120428024332.IVV8P.22328.root@hrndva-web09-z01>
	<3D425E57197145D89954C28477195A2D@bboffice>
Message-ID: <CAJaD1DMXjRHuj2VB_kdDT31QbNyE0WYWDJQR1KevBxDHZ=kBoQ@mail.gmail.com>

I installed the TR3 style breather pipe in the crankcase of my 65 TR4 and I
like to think the reduced pressure lessened the leakage through the rear
oil seal. However I don't much like adding those noxious fumes to my
already nasty exhaust and eventually would like to run the pipe to a catch
filer of some kind.
JohnH

On Sat, Apr 28, 2

On Sat, Apr 28, 2012 at 9:21 AM, <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:

> The pipe would be effective as long as there is free air flow at the end.
> Ques: Why not just go with the TR3 pipe set up?
> Bill
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> pbrandsema at triad.rr.com
> Sent: Friday, April 27, 2012 9:44 PM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] TR4 Oil Breather Pipe Oil Catch Tank
>
> I'm thinking about removing the plug from the TR4 engine block and replaice
> with a breather pipe.  Question is if I connect a hose from the pipe to a
> catch tank, will the pipe be as effective?
>
> Paul
> 61 TR4
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net
>
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/leejohn7 at gmail.com

From trdoctor at aol.com  Sun Apr 29 21:10:30 2012
From: trdoctor at aol.com (Sam Clark)
Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2012 22:10:30 -0500
Subject: [TR] GT6 Throttle Adjustment
Message-ID: <F0613FDD-1466-4840-9ED8-741D7F744C65@aol.com>

Greetings.  I hope someone out there can help.  My '72 GT6 ZS 150 carbs won't
achieve full throttle.  When you push on the pedal the butterflies open just
past half way.  I can't figure out how to adjust the linkage to get them to
open more.  These throttles are operated by a center cable pull arrangement.
I have adjusted the cable to take out all of the play but they still won't
open fully.  I have looked at the accelerator pedal and don't see a way to
adjust it.  The manual is useless in this regard.  Any help would be
appreciated.
BTW, the South Central VTR Regional was this past weekend and we had a great
event.  Sorry if you couldn't make it.
TIA

From v6spitfireguy at cox.net  Mon Apr 30 04:55:17 2012
From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net)
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2012 06:55:17 -0400
Subject: [TR] Bonderize?
Message-ID: <380-220124130105517138@M2W107.mail2web.com>

Without actually viewing it, I believe the finish your seeing is referred
to as Parkerized
Every camshaft that I have ever had new or reground has had this done to
it.  It looks and feels like very fine (1000 grit) sandpaper
You do not remove it, just clean and install with camshaft lube -

(Excerpt taken from the Wikipedia site)
Parkerizing, bonderizing, phosphating, or phosphatizing is a method of
protecting a steel surface from corrosion and increasing its resistance to
wear through the application of an electrochemical phosphate conversion
coating. Parkerizing is usually considered to be an improved zinc or
manganese phosphating process, and not to be an improved iron phosphating
process, although some use the term parkerizing as a generic term for
applying phosphating (or phosphatizing) coatings that does include the iron
phosphating process.

Original Message:
-----------------

Camshaft came back from the machine shop.  But the lobes weren't polished.
They have this black stuff all over them and it looks fairly gritty.  The
book I'm using says "if the camshaft has been reground, degrease
thoroughly, bonderize, and soak in graphite."

What the heck is bonderize?  And shouldn't the machine shop have polizhed
the lobes?  ...Or is it polished, but just being protected by something I
have to take off somehow?


--------------------------------------------------------------------
myhosting.com - Premium Microsoft. Windows. and Linux web and application
hosting - http://link.myhosting.com/myhosting

From akgraves at cox.net  Mon Apr 30 18:21:10 2012
From: akgraves at cox.net (Art & Karen Graves)
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2012 19:21:10 -0500
Subject: [TR] GT6 Throttle Adjustment
Message-ID: <000001cd2730$5be96bb0$13bc4310$@net>

Sam,

 

Is there a control lever (carb linkage is connected to this) on the petal
shaft as it is on the TR6?  If it is the same arrangement, that would keep
the butterflies from opening all the way.

 

Art Graves

1976 Triumph TR6

Tulsa, OK

From llst at shaw.ca  Mon Apr 30 20:18:05 2012
From: llst at shaw.ca (LT)
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2012 19:18:05 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Heater leak test
Message-ID: <4F9F47DD.3070605@shaw.ca>

You could connect the garden hose with a pressure gauge on it and 
restrict the outlet with say another valve or pinching the hose off so 
that you do not flow many gallons of water. By slowly opening the  inlet 
on the  garden hose, you can adjust the pressure to whatever the 
radiator cap is operating at plus a little bit more. This should give 
you an idea if any water starts to show up on the core that you have a 
problem.
If you have an air compressor and an air regulator, cap off one end  and 
charge it up with air while submersing the core and you will see bubbles 
in the water if it is leaking.

Larry T

From mark at bradakis.com  Mon Apr 30 20:31:24 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2012 20:31:24 -0600
Subject: [TR] Commission numbers
Message-ID: <4F9F4AFC.6050603@bradakis.com>

Working at a repair shop again, one with a decided interest in British cars.
I'm trying to keep track of the commission numbers of all the cars I work on
at Bailey's [ http://baileysautomotive.com ]  For example, the Austin Healey
3000 I worked on is HBJ829679.  I haven't written down the number for the
MG Midget 1500 I started pulling the motor out of today.  Most likely I
won't remember many by heart, there will be a database on one of my
computers involved, no doubt.

But one car came in today for an oil change and a minor problem with the
brake light.  That number I can probably remember:

http://bradakis.com/Images/tr.jpg


mjb.

From tony at tonydrews.com  Mon Apr 30 20:57:07 2012
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2012 21:57:07 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 Oil Breather Pipe Oil Catch Tank
In-Reply-To: <CAJaD1DMXjRHuj2VB_kdDT31QbNyE0WYWDJQR1KevBxDHZ=kBoQ@mail.g
	mail.com>
References: <20120428024332.IVV8P.22328.root@hrndva-web09-z01>
	<3D425E57197145D89954C28477195A2D@bboffice>
	<CAJaD1DMXjRHuj2VB_kdDT31QbNyE0WYWDJQR1KevBxDHZ=kBoQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.0.1335841028.5961.triumphs@autox.team.net>

If you run it to a catch tank, the catch tank needs to be vented to 
allow the gases to escape still.  Seems obvious, but...  Also, if you 
do any spirited driving you don't want the catch tank on the same 
side of the engine as the breather - when you go quickly around right 
hand turns, oil can run out the pipe into the catch tank.  I suppose 
if you put enough bends in the pipe that wouldn't occur.  We seem to 
put the catch tank where the battery normally goes, but that assumes 
you've relocated the battery to the passenger floorboard or 
trunk.  You want the hose going into the top of the catch tank.

Here's a couple of examples:
uncle jack's super clean installation:
http://www.tonydrews.com/catch_tank_002.jpg
My much grungier installation:
http://www.tonydrews.com/2008-9Rebuild/2009_0329EngineInstallation0025.JPG
http://www.tonydrews.com/2008-9Rebuild/2009_0329EngineInstallation0001.JPG

Tony

At 10:00 PM 4/29/2012, Lee&John Howard wrote:
>I installed the TR3 style breather pipe in the crankcase of my 65 TR4 and I
>like to think the reduced pressure lessened the leakage through the rear
>oil seal. However I don't much like adding those noxious fumes to my
>already nasty exhaust and eventually would like to run the pipe to a catch
>filer of some kind.
>JohnH
>
>On Sat, Apr 28, 2
>
>On Sat, Apr 28, 2012 at 9:21 AM, <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:
>
> > The pipe would be effective as long as there is free air flow at the end.
> > Ques: Why not just go with the TR3 pipe set up?
> > Bill
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
> > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> > pbrandsema at triad.rr.com
> > Sent: Friday, April 27, 2012 9:44 PM
> > To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> > Subject: [TR] TR4 Oil Breather Pipe Oil Catch Tank
> >
> > I'm thinking about removing the plug from the TR4 engine block and replaice
> > with a breather pipe.  Question is if I connect a hose from the pipe to a
> > catch tank, will the pipe be as effective?
> >
> > Paul
> > 61 TR4
> >
> > ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net
> >
> > ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/leejohn7 at gmail.com
>
>** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com

From wbeech at flash.net  Mon Apr 30 21:20:14 2012
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2012 22:20:14 -0500
Subject: [TR] Commission numbers
In-Reply-To: <4F9F4AFC.6050603@bradakis.com>
References: <4F9F4AFC.6050603@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <B1C57BCEFAD5487BB732D6315F76D76C@bboffice>

Mark,
Connection is not working, I am betting it was TS-1.  Is it perfect as the
pictures make it out to be?
Very cool indeed,
Bill 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2012 9:31 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] Commission numbers

Working at a repair shop again, one with a decided interest in British cars.
I'm trying to keep track of the commission numbers of all the cars I work on
at Bailey's [ http://baileysautomotive.com ]  For example, the Austin Healey
3000 I worked on is HBJ829679.  I haven't written down the number for the MG
Midget 1500 I started pulling the motor out of today.  Most likely I won't
remember many by heart, there will be a database on one of my computers
involved, no doubt.

But one car came in today for an oil change and a minor problem with the
brake light.  That number I can probably remember:

http://bradakis.com/Images/tr.jpg


mjb.

** triumphs at autox.team.net **

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net

From TR3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Apr 30 23:07:21 2012
From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2012 22:07:21 -0700
Subject: [TR] Commission numbers
In-Reply-To: <4F9F4AFC.6050603@bradakis.com>
References: <4F9F4AFC.6050603@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <091801cd2758$4b44fc70$0601a8c0@randall>

> But one car came in today for an oil change and a minor 
> problem with the
> brake light.  That number I can probably remember:
> 
> http://bradakis.com/Images/tr.jpg

Gee, that's a pretty car!

Tnx for the pix, MJB.

-- Randall