From auprichard at uprichard.net Thu Sep 1 06:14:44 2011 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2011 08:14:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] wiring question Message-ID: <9795DA250F1A48E086B81059771DF7A2@DCH6RFC1> I am installing a new harness in my TR250 (thanks to Marv Gruber) and have come across two wires I cannot account for. They arise adjacent to the brake safety, and are both about 3 inches long. One is white and one black. There were no corresponding wires in the old harness. I am assuming the black is a ground, but the white? By the way, this is not the ignition feed to the coil, which comes off in a loom about a further down the main harness. Does anyone have any ideas? Andrew Uprichard From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Sep 1 06:58:57 2011 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2011 08:58:57 -0400 Subject: [TR] [TRY] wiring question In-Reply-To: <9795DA250F1A48E086B81059771DF7A2@DCH6RFC1> References: <9795DA250F1A48E086B81059771DF7A2@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: According to the AAW schematics (http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr2506.pdf), there's only 5 places for a W wire: ignition switch to alternator warning lamp ignition switch to brake warning lamp brake warning lamp to brake warning switch ignition switch to fuse box fuse box to coil Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 1975 TR6 with: Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff & CVJs -----Original Message----- From: Andrew Uprichard Sent: Thursday, September 01, 2011 8:14 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net ; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] wiring question I am installing a new harness in my TR250 (thanks to Marv Gruber) and have come across two wires I cannot account for. They arise adjacent to the brake safety, and are both about 3 inches long. One is white and one black. There were no corresponding wires in the old harness. I am assuming the black is a ground, but the white? By the way, this is not the ignition feed to the coil, which comes off in a loom about a further down the main harness. Does anyone have any ideas? Andrew Uprichard triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From tr3 at roadrunner.com Thu Sep 1 12:57:47 2011 From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (Hdefer) Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2011 11:57:47 -0700 Subject: [TR] Superchargers Message-ID: <248DD824-8046-48AD-A45D-87D35DC5FCF2@roadrunner.com> Does anybody have recommendations and/or experiences with Judson superchargers? I am actually thinking of picking up a rebuilt one for my 190SL. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Sep 1 14:08:44 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2011 13:08:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] Superchargers In-Reply-To: <248DD824-8046-48AD-A45D-87D35DC5FCF2@roadrunner.com> References: <248DD824-8046-48AD-A45D-87D35DC5FCF2@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: <003d01cc68e2$f46d4080$dd47c180$@rr.com> > Does anybody have recommendations and/or experiences with Judson > superchargers? I am actually thinking of picking up a rebuilt one for > my 190SL. Unless being period correct is important to you, I would highly recommend using a Roots-type blower instead, preferably with a "priority valve". The Judson blower design is considerably less efficient, which means it both sucks more power and heats the intake air more, which in turn makes detonation much more likely. And detonation can literally destroy the motor in a matter of seconds! The Judson uses phenolic vanes (although perhaps yours will be rebuilt with a more modern plastic) that wear and shed particles directly into the engine intake. The original TR and MG setup (likely your MB will be similar) is also a "full time" blower, meaning it is always compressing the intake air (and drawing significant power) even when it is not needed (throttle plates are closed). The modern designs use a "priority valve" to bypass the blower when it is not needed (and some even have a clutch to let the blower stop turning altogether). Because of the rubbing contact surfaces inside the Judson, it also requires a steady supply of oil through the intake. Although the original oilers were made by Marvel, the oil should be motor oil, not Marvel Mystery Oil. The oil also tends to promote detonation. All that said, I do have a TR3 Judson stashed away, that I hope to be able to try out some day. Most likely I'll also install water injection and boost retard, to control detonation. PS, the factory MB superchargers are Roots-type, made by Eaton I believe. Some of them include the priority valve right in the blower housing. -- Randall From trglory at verizon.net Thu Sep 1 14:39:57 2011 From: trglory at verizon.net (Joseph Laurito) Date: Thu, 01 Sep 2011 16:39:57 -0400 Subject: [TR] wiring question In-Reply-To: <9795DA250F1A48E086B81059771DF7A2@DCH6RFC1> References: <9795DA250F1A48E086B81059771DF7A2@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: <004801cc68e7$509a3800$f1cea800$@net> Some of the cars had an interior light between the seats...could be for that. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard Sent: Thursday, September 01, 2011 8:15 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] wiring question I am installing a new harness in my TR250 (thanks to Marv Gruber) and have come across two wires I cannot account for. They arise adjacent to the brake safety, and are both about 3 inches long. One is white and one black. There were no corresponding wires in the old harness. I am assuming the black is a ground, but the white? By the way, this is not the ignition feed to the coil, which comes off in a loom about a further down the main harness. Does anyone have any ideas? Andrew Uprichard triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trglory at verizon.net From trglory at verizon.net Thu Sep 1 14:43:33 2011 From: trglory at verizon.net (Joseph Laurito) Date: Thu, 01 Sep 2011 16:43:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] wiring question In-Reply-To: <9795DA250F1A48E086B81059771DF7A2@DCH6RFC1> References: <9795DA250F1A48E086B81059771DF7A2@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: <004901cc68e7$d1288710$73799530$@net> Never mind....if you are talking about the coil you must be in the engine bay. When you said brake safety, some people refer to the hand brake as the safety brake. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard Sent: Thursday, September 01, 2011 8:15 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] wiring question I am installing a new harness in my TR250 (thanks to Marv Gruber) and have come across two wires I cannot account for. They arise adjacent to the brake safety, and are both about 3 inches long. One is white and one black. There were no corresponding wires in the old harness. I am assuming the black is a ground, but the white? By the way, this is not the ignition feed to the coil, which comes off in a loom about a further down the main harness. Does anyone have any ideas? Andrew Uprichard triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trglory at verizon.net From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Thu Sep 1 15:51:30 2011 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2011 14:51:30 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] windshield plate side bracket Message-ID: <1314913890.27956.YahooMailNeo@web65311.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> List, While cleaning up the windshield plate side bracket that bolts to the body and holds the windshield on.............I broke the wire fastener on the inside that the Dzuz fastener attaches to. I tried a spot type weld on it but it didn't take. I'm thinking the wire is high strength of some kind. These brackets are unavailable. I'm wondering if anyone on the list has had this same problem or..............does anyone have one to sell? I'm in need of the left side bracket. thanks! gary n. From gprtech at frontiernet.net Thu Sep 1 16:41:48 2011 From: gprtech at frontiernet.net (George Richardson) Date: Thu, 01 Sep 2011 18:41:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Windshield Message-ID: <4E600A2C.8040308@frontiernet.net> Way back, when I first restored Squirtle the TR3, I replaced the windshield. What was provided then was some rubber channel thing that could never get into place, so I just used regular windshield sealer. That worked fine, maybe too fine, since I have problems getting it out when (purely for stupid reasons well withing my control) I smashed my windshield. I ordered a seal from TRF along with a bunch of other stuff, but what cam this time is a flat rubber piece that I guess wraps around the edge of the windshield glass. Anyone use this? Any advice? Should I just stick with my windshield sealer? -- George Richardson From guy at genfiniti.com Thu Sep 1 17:03:31 2011 From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins) Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2011 18:03:31 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4A - Hydraulic Push Rod Advice Message-ID: <125D5187-071B-4B84-ADCB-6A84D11F6B13@genfiniti.com> All, I need some advice on an annoying issue with the TR4A. The push-rod for the brake master is longer than the push-rod for the clutch. As a result, the brake pedal is considerably further away from the floor than the clutch and gas pedals, which are basically level. Seems like I should be able to replace the brake push-rod with a shorter length (to match the clutch) and be on my merry way. However, going to shorter push-rod means a correspondently shortened "stroke" for the brake cylinder. (Length from all-the-way out to all-the-way in, will be less) So, this seems like it would have to compress more fluid per unit length, thus making the pedal harder to push-in, but I would get more stopping power per unit length. Out side of these items, does it matter for other reasons if I go to a shorter push-rod for the brake cylinder? Has anyone had this issue? If so, how did you solve it? Cheers, Guy D. Huggins 1965 Triumph TR4A CTC 63569LO Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph From auprichard at uprichard.net Thu Sep 1 17:46:08 2011 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2011 19:46:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Windshield In-Reply-To: <4E600A2C.8040308@frontiernet.net> References: <4E600A2C.8040308@frontiernet.net> Message-ID: <71AF99164A574E3A84F073F55B0821BF@DCH6RFC1> I found three pieces of advice particularly valuable: 1. Glue the rubber piece to the glass. 2. Trim the rubber where it has to be folded around the corners. 3. Use plenty of soap It is a difficult job at best, but made easier when you follow these guidelines. Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of George Richardson Sent: Thursday, September 01, 2011 6:42 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR3 Windshield Way back, when I first restored Squirtle the TR3, I replaced the windshield. What was provided then was some rubber channel thing that could never get into place, so I just used regular windshield sealer. That worked fine, maybe too fine, since I have problems getting it out when (purely for stupid reasons well withing my control) I smashed my windshield. I ordered a seal from TRF along with a bunch of other stuff, but what cam this time is a flat rubber piece that I guess wraps around the edge of the windshield glass. Anyone use this? Any advice? Should I just stick with my windshield sealer? -- George Richardson triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Sep 1 19:06:30 2011 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2011 21:06:30 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] TR4A - Hydraulic Push Rod Advice Message-ID: <3741c.1b488779.3b918615@cs.com> In a message dated 9/1/2011 6:30:45 PM Central Daylight Time, guy at genfiniti.com writes: > I need some advice on an annoying issue with the TR4A. > The push-rod for the brake master is longer than the push-rod for the > clutch. > As a result, the brake pedal is considerably further away from the floor > than > the clutch and gas pedals, which are basically level. > Seems like I should be able to replace the brake push-rod with a shorter > length (to match the clutch) and be on my merry way. > > However, going to shorter push-rod means a correspondently shortened > "stroke" > for the brake cylinder. (Length from all-the-way out to all-the-way in, > will > be less) > So, this seems like it would have to compress more fluid per unit length, > thus > making the pedal harder to push-in, but I would get more stopping power > per > unit length. You are confusing pushrod length and lever length. A longer pushrod doesn't change the relationship between pedal travel and master cylinder piston travel. The only thing it changes is the position of the pedal and full release and at full travel. The actual stroke (full out to full in doesn't change and pedal pressure doesn't change. > > Out side of these items, does it matter for other reasons if I go to a > shorter > push-rod for the brake cylinder? > Has anyone had this issue? If so, how did you solve it? I had the same issue with the clutch master cylinder on my TR8 and I resolved it by installing the old pushrod and all was just fine. And I did it with the master cylinder in place. Dave From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Fri Sep 2 08:22:58 2011 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2011 07:22:58 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Triumph List Scam? Message-ID: <1314973378.2680.YahooMailRC@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I just got the unsolicited email below. The use of capitals, the use of fields for topic, lack of spacing and ackward grammer screams scam. Being that the words "wheel balancers" are used I was thinking that someone got the list email addresses somehow. Did other listers get this? Maybe the got my address from somewhere else online or off of Ebay somehow. Bill in Tehachapi ________________________________ Hello Good day, My name is John Carna and I am sending this email to your company regarding to purchase some( Wheel Balancers )from your company,I would like you to email me with types and their price ranges so that I can select the one which will be suitable for me and then let you know the quantity needed asap for us to proceed with the order.Kindly advice the types of credit cards you take for payment.Hope to hear from you real soon.Thank you, John Carna. From spook01 at comcast.net Fri Sep 2 08:58:10 2011 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Fri, 02 Sep 2011 09:58:10 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Triumph_List_Scam=3F?= Message-ID: <20110902145812.CA871187895@autox.team.net> More variations on the nigerian scam. I was looking for front sidelights for my 1929 morris minor tourer and got two notes from the same ip address using two different names offering the lights new! Hilarious! Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "William Brewer" To: "Triumphs" Subject: [TR] Triumph List Scam? Date: Fri, Sep 2, 2011 09:22 I just got the unsolicited email below. The use of capitals, the use of fields for topic, lack of spacing and ackward grammer screams scam. Being that the words "wheel balancers" are used I was thinking that someone got the list email addresses somehow. Did other listers get this? Maybe the got my address from somewhere else online or off of Ebay somehow. Bill in Tehachapi ________________________________ Hello Good day, My name is John Carna and I am sending this email to your company regarding to purchase some( Wheel Balancers )from your company,I would like you to email me with types and their price ranges so that I can select the one which will be suitable for me and then let you know the quantity needed asap for us to proceed with the order.Kindly advice the types of credit cards you take for payment.Hope to hear from you real soon.Thank you, John Carna. triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From yellowtr at adelphia.net Fri Sep 2 09:27:22 2011 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2011 11:27:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumph List Scam? In-Reply-To: <1314973378.2680.YahooMailRC@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <1314973378.2680.YahooMailRC@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <201109021127.23874.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Friday, September 02, 2011 10:22:58 am William Brewer wrote: > I just got the unsolicited email below. The use of capitals, the use > of fields for topic, lack of spacing and ackward grammer screams scam. > Being that the words "wheel balancers" are used I was thinking that > someone got the list email addresses somehow. Did other listers get this? > Maybe the got my address from somewhere else online or off of Ebay > somehow. > > Bill in Tehachapi > ________________________________ Bill, I did not get this particular email but I have received spam from autox in the past. Mark spends a ton of time managing the crap that enters the list servers. Bob From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Sep 2 11:20:22 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2011 10:20:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumph List Scam? In-Reply-To: <1314973378.2680.YahooMailRC@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <1314973378.2680.YahooMailRC@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <013701cc6994$9936bf40$cba43dc0$@rr.com> > I was thinking that someone got > the list > email addresses somehow. Did other listers get this? I didn't get that particular message, but I get similar ones all the time. Seriously doubt that it had anything to do with Team.Net, other than possibly some list member got hacked/infected and their address book stolen. -- Randall From pethier at comcast.net Fri Sep 2 11:32:45 2011 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2011 17:32:45 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Triumph List Scam? In-Reply-To: <1314973378.2680.YahooMailRC@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <224252107.838332.1314984765299.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Absolutely a scam spam. Just delete it. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://www.mnautox.com ----- Original Message ----- > From: "William Brewer" > To: "Triumphs" > Sent: Friday, September 2, 2011 9:22:58 AM > Subject: [TR] Triumph List Scam? > I just got the unsolicited email below. The use of capitals, the use > of > fields for topic, lack of spacing and ackward grammer screams scam. > Being that > the words "wheel balancers" are used I was thinking that someone got > the list > email addresses somehow. Did other listers get this? Maybe the got my > address > from somewhere else online or off of Ebay somehow. > > Bill in Tehachapi > ________________________________ > > Hello Good day, > > > My name is John Carna and I am sending this email to > your company > regarding to purchase some( Wheel Balancers )from your company,I > would like > you to email me with types and their price ranges so that I can > select the > one which will be suitable for me and then let you know the quantity > needed > asap for us to proceed with the order.Kindly advice the types of > credit > cards > you take for payment.Hope to hear from you real soon.Thank you, > > > > John > Carna. > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net From tr3 at roadrunner.com Fri Sep 2 11:46:50 2011 From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (Hdefer) Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2011 10:46:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumph List Scam? In-Reply-To: <201109021127.23874.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <1314973378.2680.YahooMailRC@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <201109021127.23874.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <89B88812-AD0E-4C2C-9DF2-CDB59794CCD1@roadrunner.com> It is not only the list they are getting into. I get them through al kinds of channels. They are so pathetically transparent that they have become a source of amusement to me. Hans TR3A On Sep 2, 2011, at 8:27 AM, Bob wrote: > On Friday, September 02, 2011 10:22:58 am William Brewer wrote: >> I just got the unsolicited email below. The use of capitals, >> the use >> of fields for topic, lack of spacing and ackward grammer screams >> scam. >> Being that the words "wheel balancers" are used I was thinking that >> someone got the list email addresses somehow. Did other listers get >> this? >> Maybe the got my address from somewhere else online or off of Ebay >> somehow. >> >> Bill in Tehachapi >> ________________________________ > > > Bill, > > I did not get this particular email but I have received spam from > autox in the > past. > > Mark spends a ton of time managing the crap that enters the list > servers. > > Bob > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3 at roadrunner.com From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Fri Sep 2 12:06:29 2011 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2011 11:06:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] [TR} tire pressures In-Reply-To: <000501cc67e1$b3898b20$1a9ca160$@net> References: <000501cc67e1$b3898b20$1a9ca160$@net> Message-ID: On Wed, Aug 31, 2011 at 6:27 AM, Dennis Culligan wrote: > Tony Drews wrote: > > > I dislike understeer intensely. > > To quote somebody (probably a rally driver) - > > "Understeer scares the driver, oversteer scares the passenger" > But with understeer you get to watch the accident coming. From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Sep 2 13:09:38 2011 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2011 15:09:38 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] [TR} tire pressures Message-ID: <580b6.5886294c.3b9283f2@cs.com> In a message dated 9/2/2011 1:36:34 PM Central Daylight Time, ahwahneetr at gmail.com writes: > >Tony Drews wrote: > > > >> I dislike understeer intensely. > > > >To quote somebody (probably a rally driver) - > > > >"Understeer scares the driver, oversteer scares the passenger" > > > > But with understeer you get to watch the accident coming. > > Yes but with oversteer you get to reflect on what you did wrong. ;-) Dave From anabil007 at comcast.net Fri Sep 2 13:28:11 2011 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh) Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2011 12:28:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] Competition Press Message-ID: <7F888AE3-B42C-4691-8F8B-5080B8C12262@comcast.net> I have run across two issues of Competition Press ... one April 1961 ... headlined FERRARI SWEEPS SEBRING 12. The other April 1962 ... headlined PENSKE BREEZES TO WIN AT MALBORO NATIONAL. Both are in Very Fragile condition. I have no use for them, and would send for postage only. First Come, First Served. "Life is too short to drive Boring Cars" Bill Pugh Wallace, CA Casper 1957 TR3 TS16665L anabil007 at comcast.net From tr3 at roadrunner.com Fri Sep 2 14:03:25 2011 From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (T.R Terror) Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2011 13:03:25 -0700 Subject: [TR] [TR} tire pressures In-Reply-To: <580b6.5886294c.3b9283f2@cs.com> References: <580b6.5886294c.3b9283f2@cs.com> Message-ID: <5427E9CB-AC5D-4F14-AF67-6D34A6D2D2EC@roadrunner.com> >> But with understeer you get to watch the accident coming. >> >> > Yes but with oversteer you get to reflect on what you did wrong. ;-) With all that philosophical wisdom, I think, I am sticking to slight understeer, which I get with with 30 psi in front and 28 in my back TR3A radials. Hans TR3A On Sep 2, 2011, at 12:09 PM, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > In a message dated 9/2/2011 1:36:34 PM Central Daylight Time, > ahwahneetr at gmail.com writes: >>> Tony Drews wrote: >>> >>>> I dislike understeer intensely. >>> >>> To quote somebody (probably a rally driver) - >>> >>> "Understeer scares the driver, oversteer scares the passenger" >>> >> >> But with understeer you get to watch the accident coming. >> >> > Yes but with oversteer you get to reflect on what you did wrong. ;-) > > Dave > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ > tr3 at roadrunner.com From adcronin at ameritech.net Fri Sep 2 16:24:21 2011 From: adcronin at ameritech.net (A Daniel Cronin) Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2011 15:24:21 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] (no subject) Message-ID: <1315002261.65538.YahooMailMobile@web81307.mail.mud.yahoo.com> http://agaogluyesim.com/viau.html From pethier at comcast.net Fri Sep 2 17:22:06 2011 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2011 23:22:06 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Competition Press In-Reply-To: <7F888AE3-B42C-4691-8F8B-5080B8C12262@comcast.net> Message-ID: <767239567.855079.1315005726338.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Marlboro has.long since been replaced by Summit Point. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://www.mnautox.com From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Fri Sep 2 19:41:16 2011 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2011 21:41:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] My wife stole my fuel bowl Message-ID: Too funny... my wife was heading out to a girls night in and needed a shot glass ... she comes to me and asks me if she can borrow the shot glass from the shop. I said sure, but let me wash it first... From wensley_tr at comcast.net Fri Sep 2 20:24:28 2011 From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2011 22:24:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] Competition Press In-Reply-To: <767239567.855079.1315005726338.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <7F888AE3-B42C-4691-8F8B-5080B8C12262@comcast.net> <767239567.855079.1315005726338.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <000c01cc69e0$9b9a8e50$d2cfaaf0$@net> OK...So what's your point? Craig -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of pethier at comcast.net Sent: Friday, September 02, 2011 7:22 PM To: William Pugh Cc: TR3/6 Subject: Re: [TR] Competition Press Marlboro has.long since been replaced by Summit Point. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://www.mnautox.com triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wensley_tr at comcast.net From wensley_tr at comcast.net Fri Sep 2 20:25:48 2011 From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2011 22:25:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] Competition Press In-Reply-To: <767239567.855079.1315005726338.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <7F888AE3-B42C-4691-8F8B-5080B8C12262@comcast.net> <767239567.855079.1315005726338.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <000d01cc69e0$cb689000$6239b000$@net> GOT IT Craig -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of pethier at comcast.net Sent: Friday, September 02, 2011 7:22 PM To: William Pugh Cc: TR3/6 Subject: Re: [TR] Competition Press Marlboro has.long since been replaced by Summit Point. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://www.mnautox.com triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wensley_tr at comcast.net From mark at bradakis.com Fri Sep 2 21:27:45 2011 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Fri, 02 Sep 2011 21:27:45 -0600 Subject: [TR] Triumph List Scam? In-Reply-To: <201109021127.23874.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <1314973378.2680.YahooMailRC@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <201109021127.23874.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <4E619EB1.90208@bradakis.com> > Bill, > > I did not get this particular email but I have received spam from autox in the > past. > > Mark spends a ton of time managing the crap that enters the list servers. > > Bob > > > Ain't that the truth! I'm hoping to get the new server, new software, new filters and such on the air in the next week or two. We shall see. mjb. From McGaheyRx at aol.com Sat Sep 3 03:44:26 2011 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Sat, 3 Sep 2011 05:44:26 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] My wife stole my fuel bowl Message-ID: seems appropriate - i guess the fuel she used it for was more than 10% ethanol... In a message dated 9/2/2011 9:44:51 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, ccsimonsen at gmail.com writes: Too funny... my wife was heading out to a girls night in and needed a shot glass ... she comes to me and asks me if she can borrow the shot glass from the shop. I said sure, but let me wash it first... triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: h ttp://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mcgaheyrx at aol.com From dixie4.wales at virgin.net Sat Sep 3 05:14:04 2011 From: dixie4.wales at virgin.net (ADRIAN DIX-DYER) Date: Sat, 3 Sep 2011 12:14:04 +0100 Subject: [TR] My wife stole my fuel bowl In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: What a cracking idea, a fuel bowl as a shot glass, never too far from a Triumph. Adrian TR4A CT64306 O Wales UK. On 3 September 2011 10:44, wrote: > seems appropriate - i guess the fuel she used it for was more than 10% > ethanol... > > > > > > In a message dated 9/2/2011 9:44:51 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, > ccsimonsen at gmail.com writes: > > Too funny... my wife was heading out to a girls night in and needed a > shot > glass ... she comes to me and asks me if she can borrow the shot glass > from > the shop. > > I said sure, but let me wash it first... > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: h > ttp://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mcgaheyrx at aol.com > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dixie4.wales at virgin.net From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Sat Sep 3 07:28:50 2011 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Sat, 3 Sep 2011 06:28:50 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR4A - Hydraulic Push Rod Advice Message-ID: <1315056530.20766.YahooMailNeo@web39409.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hi List! "G.D. Huggins" wrote: > All, I need some advice on an annoying issue with the TR4A. The push-rod for the brake master is longer than the push-rod for the clutch. As a result, the brake pedal is considerably further away from the floor than the clutch and gas pedals, which are basically level. Seems like I should be able to replace the brake push-rod with a shorter length (to match the clutch) and be on my merry way. ... > Has anyone had this issue? If so, how did you solve it? OK, I was working on my hydraulic system one time & decided to redo both master Cylinders. In the process of reassembling the units back into my TR4A I had mixed up the push rods. I noticed that it was hard driving back out the driveway (130') & was extremely hard to travel down the road (200'). At this point, I got out of my car to check the brakes.I noticed that the tyres were very warm & went ti feel the disc. They were very warm, too. I then went to try to feel the calipers, but found that I could feel extreme amounts of heat as my hand got closer to them. I quickly & VERY lightly touched one corner to almost burn my finger. I then reached around the rear tyre to feel the backing plate which was extremely hot, too. Being about 300' from my garage, I decided to let everything cool down & tried to push the TR4A backwards with extreme difficulty. Again waiting a few mins. I then drove the car (120' now) back into the garage & let everything sit for a day while mentally reviewing what I had done to the car. I then checked the MC's push rods & noticed that I had them switched around. I then switched them back around & all was working correctly. Summary: Use the correct length of push rod in the MC's. -Cosmo Kramer From tjwakeman at gmail.com Sat Sep 3 07:54:16 2011 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Sat, 03 Sep 2011 06:54:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] My wife stole my fuel bowl In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4E623188.9080502@gmail.com> On 9/3/11 4:14 AM, ADRIAN DIX-DYER wrote: > What a cracking idea, a fuel bowl as a shot glass, never too far from a > Triumph. > > Actually, it is a fairly common use amongst US Series Land Rover owners. I know people who have bough several for use as shot glasses. Many people bring a clean one on camping trips for use around the camp fire at night. In a pinch they make a good sake cup as well. Series Land Rover fuel pumps are the same as Triumph ones except for the mounting flange. They take the same rebuild kit. Teriann From pethier at comcast.net Sat Sep 3 09:30:26 2011 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 3 Sep 2011 15:30:26 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] [TR} tire pressures In-Reply-To: <580b6.5886294c.3b9283f2@cs.com> Message-ID: <269780344.870608.1315063826602.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> > From: Dave1massey at cs.com > Yes but with oversteer you get to reflect on what you did wrong. ;-) Like driving through the Rockies in October? Too soon? Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://www.mnautox.com From rpeglow at optonline.net Sat Sep 3 09:50:56 2011 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Sat, 03 Sep 2011 11:50:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] wiring question, transmission tunnel light wiring In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: My '71 has the transmission tunnel light. 3 wires = purple, purple-white and a black ground. Regards, Bob From auprichard at uprichard.net Sat Sep 3 14:38:00 2011 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Sat, 3 Sep 2011 16:38:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] Retr0bright update Message-ID: I posted recently about the possible benefit of Retr0bright on the washer bottle. Well, I am glad to report the same mixture had a dramatic effect on the non-return valve from the servo. Started off almost brown and, after 2 applications, is - well, not the pearly white of my kids' teeth, but along the lines of the wanna-be-white of mine. Oh, and this is one part (the non-return valve) which is not as readily available as the washer bottle. Andrew Uprichard From dave1massey at cs.com Sat Sep 3 22:10:12 2011 From: dave1massey at cs.com (Dave Massey) Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2011 00:10:12 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] [TR} tire pressures In-Reply-To: <269780344.870608.1315063826602.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <269780344.870608.1315063826602.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <8CE38CFAD1E7BCF-1CDC-65C8F@webmail-d168.sysops.aol.com> Never. But it wasn't in the Rockies. It was Kansas with its spread-too-thin road crews not treating ice covered roads until AFTER I came through -- or at least tried to come through. Dave -----Original Message----- From: pethier > From: Dave1massey at cs.com > Yes but with oversteer you get to reflect on what you did wrong. ;-) Like driving through the Rockies in October? Too soon? From pethier at comcast.net Sat Sep 3 22:48:46 2011 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2011 04:48:46 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] [TR} tire pressures In-Reply-To: <8CE38CFAD1E7BCF-1CDC-65C8F@webmail-d168.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <1934616923.888973.1315111726345.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> I went through Nebraska. It was rain/snow mix when we left Denver in the rented motorhome/trailer. Stayed wet but not snowy all through Nebraska. We woke up in a KOA west of Des Moines Iowa to 4 inches of snow. I was ready for that, and had walked a path the night before looking for curbs and debris. For those of us who don't know what we are blathering about, it was the return trip from the 2009 VTR in California. The 2011 VTR in Colorado was scheduled for less-harrowing midwestern weather. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://www.mnautox.com ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Dave Massey" > To: pethier at comcast.net > Cc: Triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Saturday, September 3, 2011 11:10:12 PM > Subject: Re: [TR] [TR} tire pressures > Never. But it wasn't in the Rockies. It was Kansas with its > spread-too-thin road crews not treating ice covered roads until AFTER > I came through -- or at least tried to come through. > > Dave > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: pethier > > > > From: Dave1massey at cs.com > Yes but with oversteer you get to reflect > > on what you did wrong. ;-) > > Like driving through the Rockies in October? > > Too soon? From dave1massey at cs.com Sun Sep 4 07:47:02 2011 From: dave1massey at cs.com (Dave Massey) Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2011 09:47:02 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] [TR} tire pressures In-Reply-To: <1934616923.888973.1315111726345.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <1934616923.888973.1315111726345.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <8CE39203DFC247A-4C0-43DEA@webmail-m034.sysops.aol.com> Snow I can deal with. We had ICE in Kansas. Everythihng looked normal but you could hardly stand up without sliding on that stuff. Colorado had Ice and sleet. Colorade also treated their roads. Dave -----Original Message----- From: pethier I went through Nebraska. It was rain/snow mix when we left Denver in the rented motorhome/trailer. Stayed wet but not snowy all through Nebraska. We woke up in a KOA west of Des Moines Iowa to 4 inches of snow. I was ready for that, and had walked a path the night before looking for curbs and debris. From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Sep 4 08:50:01 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2011 07:50:01 -0700 Subject: [TR] [TR} tire pressures In-Reply-To: <8CE39203DFC247A-4C0-43DEA@webmail-m034.sysops.aol.com> References: <1934616923.888973.1315111726345.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <8CE39203DFC247A-4C0-43DEA@webmail-m034.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <0b3901cc6b11$ed3b8a20$0301a8c0@randall> > Snow I can deal with. We had ICE in Kansas. Well, at least you missed the hail. Couple weeks earlier we just dodged a storm (in KS I think) that was dropping 1" hail. And living in MO you shouldn't be a complete stranger to driving on ice. I can remember visiting the farm once (about 100 miles SW of St Louis) when we had to get out of the pickup and spin it in place to line it up with the (one lane) road again. You know it's slick when you can push a truck sideways on a gravel road. -- Randall From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Sun Sep 4 10:00:00 2011 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (suhringtr36 at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2011 16:00:00 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Gunst TO Bearing Installation In-Reply-To: <1073516585.916778.1315151856984.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1604838571.916837.1315152000609.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> I am getting ready to install a new B&B Clutch and Gunst TO Bearing in my '70 TR6. One question I have that probably seems obvious, but the language in the instructions is slightly off. The two sliding blocks are to go on the thrust pins with the red colored surface facing up. Am I correct in translating this to the sliding blocks go on the Release Fork Pins? This would mean the square sliding blocks ride in the sleave grove and not the actual pins. If so, just out of curiosity, why this needed modification? TIA Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3A From tr3 at roadrunner.com Sun Sep 4 10:44:33 2011 From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (Hdefer) Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2011 09:44:33 -0700 Subject: [TR] Superchargers In-Reply-To: <003d01cc68e2$f46d4080$dd47c180$@rr.com> References: <248DD824-8046-48AD-A45D-87D35DC5FCF2@roadrunner.com> <003d01cc68e2$f46d4080$dd47c180$@rr.com> Message-ID: <83FD48D4-982F-4E58-9BF8-10AA0189A3A0@roadrunner.com> Thanks, Randall, Just the info. I was looking for; makes me think twice now! I never intended it for the TR as, contrary to the 190SL, I find its power quite adequate, but I would be very interested in your Judson project when you get around to it. I have been communicating with Haddon Judson Jr. who highly recommended a George Folchi as being the expert for adapting, rebuilding of, and parts and advise for, vintage Judsons. See you at the Triumphest? Hans On Sep 1, 2011, at 1:08 PM, Randall wrote: >> Does anybody have recommendations and/or experiences with Judson >> superchargers? I am actually thinking of picking up a rebuilt one for >> my 190SL. > > Unless being period correct is important to you, I would highly > recommend > using a Roots-type blower instead, preferably with a "priority > valve". The > Judson blower design is considerably less efficient, which means it > both > sucks more power and heats the intake air more, which in turn makes > detonation much more likely. And detonation can literally destroy > the motor > in a matter of seconds! > > The Judson uses phenolic vanes (although perhaps yours will be > rebuilt with > a more modern plastic) that wear and shed particles directly into > the engine > intake. The original TR and MG setup (likely your MB will be > similar) is > also a "full time" blower, meaning it is always compressing the > intake air > (and drawing significant power) even when it is not needed (throttle > plates > are closed). The modern designs use a "priority valve" to bypass > the blower > when it is not needed (and some even have a clutch to let the blower > stop > turning altogether). > > Because of the rubbing contact surfaces inside the Judson, it also > requires > a steady supply of oil through the intake. Although the original > oilers > were made by Marvel, the oil should be motor oil, not Marvel Mystery > Oil. > The oil also tends to promote detonation. > > All that said, I do have a TR3 Judson stashed away, that I hope to > be able > to try out some day. Most likely I'll also install water injection > and > boost retard, to control detonation. > > PS, the factory MB superchargers are Roots-type, made by Eaton I > believe. > Some of them include the priority valve right in the blower housing. > > -- Randall > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3 at roadrunner.com From spook01 at comcast.net Sun Sep 4 11:12:56 2011 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Sun, 04 Sep 2011 12:12:56 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Superchargers?= Message-ID: <20110904171301.10A5D187650@autox.team.net> Or you can use a Mazda unit like a lot of mg guys. Kinda fun to adapt, and its modern though it looks vintage. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Hdefer" To: "Triumphs List" Subject: [TR] Superchargers Date: Sun, Sep 4, 2011 11:44 Thanks, Randall, Just the info. I was looking for; makes me think twice now! I never intended it for the TR as, contrary to the 190SL, I find its power quite adequate, but I would be very interested in your Judson project when you get around to it. I have been communicating with Haddon Judson Jr. who highly recommended a George Folchi as being the expert for adapting, rebuilding of, and parts and advise for, vintage Judsons. See you at the Triumphest? Hans On Sep 1, 2011, at 1:08 PM, Randall wrote: >> Does anybody have recommendations and/or experiences with Judson >> superchargers? I am actually thinking of picking up a rebuilt one for >> my 190SL. > > Unless being period correct is important to you, I would highly > recommend > using a Roots-type blower instead, preferably with a "priority > valve". The > Judson blower design is considerably less efficient, which means it > both > sucks more power and heats the intake air more, which in turn makes > detonation much more likely. And detonation can literally destroy > the motor > in a matter of seconds! > > The Judson uses phenolic vanes (although perhaps yours will be > rebuilt with > a more modern plastic) that wear and shed particles directly into > the engine > intake. The original TR and MG setup (likely your MB will be > similar) is > also a "full time" blower, meaning it is always compressing the > intake air > (and drawing significant power) even when it is not needed (throttle > plates > are closed). The modern designs use a "priority valve" to bypass > the blower > when it is not needed (and some even have a clutch to let the blower > stop > turning altogether). > > Because of the rubbing contact surfaces inside the Judson, it also > requires > a steady supply of oil through the intake. Although the original > oilers > were made by Marvel, the oil should be motor oil, not Marvel Mystery > Oil. > The oil also tends to promote detonation. > > All that said, I do have a TR3 Judson stashed away, that I hope to > be able > to try out some day. Most likely I'll also install water injection > and > boost retard, to control detonation. > > PS, the factory MB superchargers are Roots-type, made by Eaton I > believe. > Some of them include the priority valve right in the blower housing. > > -- Randall> > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3 at roadrunner.com triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From allegrorover at mac.com Sun Sep 4 11:19:34 2011 From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio) Date: Sun, 04 Sep 2011 13:19:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] GM Alternator for TR3 Message-ID: List I am looking for the preferred model GM alternator number for a TR3. I have one on the car now but it's been powder coated, so I can't see the numbers on the case. I could remove it and take it to the dealer and they could figure it out, but I don't want to tie the car up right now, it's still good driving weather. I used to have this info on my old computer but that crashed.....I would greatly appreciate any help with this. I plan on replacing the current unit and would purchase a new unit before removing the old one. Thanks in advance Tony Cascio 58 TR3A TS27093L allegrorover at mac.com www.triumphowners.com/1489 From dkspence at telus.net Sun Sep 4 13:45:42 2011 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence) Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2011 13:45:42 -0600 Subject: [TR] superchargers In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Which mazda unit are you referring to? tnx On 4-Sep-11, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > From: "spook01 at comcast.net" > Date: September 4, 2011 11:12:56 AM MDT (CA) > To: "Hdefer" ,"Triumphs List" > > Subject: Re: [TR] Superchargers > > > Or you can use a Mazda unit like a lot of mg guys. Kinda fun to > adapt, and its modern though it looks vintage. > > Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone From tr3 at roadrunner.com Sun Sep 4 14:39:44 2011 From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (Hdefer) Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2011 13:39:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] Superchargers In-Reply-To: <10.4F.07672.D81B36E4@cdptpa-mxlb.mail.rr.com> References: <10.4F.07672.D81B36E4@cdptpa-mxlb.mail.rr.com> Message-ID: <6F5C85DD-46F5-46AB-844B-3FBE8C2B33A7@roadrunner.com> On Sep 4, 2011, at 10:12 AM, spook01 at comcast.net wrote: > Or you can use a Mazda unit like a lot of mg guys. Kinda fun to > adapt, and its modern though it looks vintage. Very interesting. Is there any info. on that? Know of anybody that has done it or article ? Hans TR3A From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Sep 4 15:01:57 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2011 14:01:57 -0700 Subject: [TR] Superchargers In-Reply-To: <83FD48D4-982F-4E58-9BF8-10AA0189A3A0@roadrunner.com> References: <248DD824-8046-48AD-A45D-87D35DC5FCF2@roadrunner.com><003d01cc68e2$f46d4080$dd47c180$@rr.com> <83FD48D4-982F-4E58-9BF8-10AA0189A3A0@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: <0bc601cc6b45$e2987720$0301a8c0@randall> > I have been communicating with > Haddon Judson Jr. who highly recommended a George Folchi as > being the > expert for adapting, rebuilding of, and parts and advise for, > vintage Judsons. ISTR George was the one experimenting with Torlon (or something like that) for the vanes instead of phenolic. But for some reason he stopped posting on the Team.Net Judson (now Supercharger) list. If you talk to him, you might ask how the Torlon worked out. > See you at the Triumphest? Doesn't look like I'll make it this year. Car isn't ready and there is a crunch going on at work. I wouldn't want them to discover that they can get by without me! -- Randall From spook01 at comcast.net Sun Sep 4 15:24:29 2011 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Sun, 04 Sep 2011 16:24:29 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Superchargers?= Message-ID: <20110904212432.BC840187644@autox.team.net> Hi guys, It isn't a Mazda unit. My Droid phone completed the word "Mercedes" as Mazda! The unit off the little Kompressor two seater, as well as the unit off the Toyota MR2 works great! Let me find a site that has pics... Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Hdefer" To: "Triumphs List" Subject: [TR] Superchargers Date: Sun, Sep 4, 2011 15:39 On Sep 4, 2011, at 10:12 AM, spook01 at comcast.net wrote: > Or you can use a Mazda unit like a lot of mg guys. Kinda fun to > adapt, and its modern though it looks vintage. Very interesting. Is there any info. on that? Know of anybody that has done it or article ? Hans TR3A triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From anncarletta at yahoo.com Sun Sep 4 16:43:44 2011 From: anncarletta at yahoo.com (Ann Carletta) Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2011 15:43:44 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] does the fan pull off the battery when the car's off? Message-ID: <1315176224.87677.YahooMailClassic@web113817.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Hi guys, I went to start the TR3A today and she was slow to turn over. I got her started and was driving around. Later in the day I went to go out again and she didn't want to turn over. Does leaving the fan/blower in the on position pull from the battery when the car is off? The battery is only a year old. What other things should I check? Ann TR3A From tr3 at roadrunner.com Sun Sep 4 23:32:54 2011 From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (Hdefer) Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2011 22:32:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] does the fan pull off the battery when the car's off? Message-ID: <519CE4C1-5B64-47BA-959A-95602B9EB55C@roadrunner.com> >> Hi Ann, >> Are you referring to the heater fan (blower) or radiator fan? >> Your car does not come with an electric radiator cooling fan from >> the factory. If it has one, someone (wisely) installed one. >> Some systems are: >> a) only thermostatically controlled or >> b) only manually controlled with an added switch or >> c) a thermostatically controlled fan that can be overridden with a >> manual switch. >> >> In some installations, the fan may be connected directly to the >> battery, in which case the fan continues to run until the rad. is >> cooled off below 180 degrees, unless the thermostat is faulty and >> fails to shut it off, resulting in your battery being drained. The >> radiator fan is quite noisy and you should hear it if it is still >> running after the engine is shut off. >> Mine is the c) configuration so it never runs after the ignition is >> off. >> The heater fan should turn off with the ignition switch. >> Hans >> TR3A > > Begin forwarded message: > >> From: Hdefer >> Date: September 4, 2011 8:23:03 PM PDT >> To: Ann Carletta >> Subject: Re: [TR] does the fan pull off the battery when the car's >> off? >> >> >> >> >> >> On Sep 4, 2011, at 3:43 PM, Ann Carletta wrote: >> >>> Hi guys, >>> >>> I went to start the TR3A today and she was slow to turn over. I >>> got her >>> started and was driving around. Later in the day I went to go out >>> again and >>> she didn't want to turn over. Does leaving the fan/blower in the >>> on position >>> pull from the battery when the car is off? The battery is only a >>> year old. >>> What other things should I check? >>> >>> Ann >>> >>> TR3A >>> >>> >>> triumphs at autox.team.net >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3 at roadrunner.com From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Sep 5 00:19:21 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 4 Sep 2011 23:19:21 -0700 Subject: [TR] does the fan pull off the battery when the car's off? In-Reply-To: <1315176224.87677.YahooMailClassic@web113817.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <1315176224.87677.YahooMailClassic@web113817.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <0cbc01cc6b93$c036e790$0301a8c0@randall> > What other things should I check? Had exactly that problem last week, except my battery isn't quite a year old yet. Needed to clean & adjust the points in the voltage regulator. Seems fine now. BTW, the folks at O'Reillys auto parts had no objection to testing both the battery and the charging system, for free. -- Randall From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Mon Sep 5 08:44:44 2011 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 07:44:44 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] windshield seal Message-ID: <1315233884.92009.YahooMailNeo@web65308.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> List, me bad.........I know this was recently discussed on the list and I wasn't paying attention but.............Just received the TRF windshield and on quick practice assembly found that there is no seal included for glass to frame. Is a seal needed here or do I use silicon sealant of some kind? I noticed that Moss carries the Triplex windshield and they also carry a seal that goes between windshield and frame. Could one use the Moss seal on the TRF windshield? thanks! gary n. From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Mon Sep 5 08:46:41 2011 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 07:46:41 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] windshield seal.......nafziger forgot to mention for tr-3 Message-ID: <1315234001.67765.YahooMailNeo@web65314.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Oh my.....forgot to mention windshield was for tr-3 From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Mon Sep 5 09:29:36 2011 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Mon, 05 Sep 2011 11:29:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] windshield seal.......nafziger forgot to mention for tr-3 In-Reply-To: <1315234001.67765.YahooMailNeo@web65314.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> References: <1315234001.67765.YahooMailNeo@web65314.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000301cc6be0$bdeca270$39c5e750$@net> Both should be the same or at least interchangeable. It is a "glazing strip" about 2 1/2" wide that is wrapped over the side & top edge of the glass (then trimmed to "fit"). It is also possible that you could buy it locally at a glass shop. I have TRF's if you need actual measurements. Carl -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary Nafziger Sent: Monday, September 05, 2011 10:47 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] windshield seal.......nafziger forgot to mention for tr-3 Oh my.....forgot to mention windshield was for tr-3 triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net From spook01 at comcast.net Mon Sep 5 11:03:16 2011 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Mon, 05 Sep 2011 12:03:16 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Photos_of_Mr2_supercharger_on_mg_tc_=28can_be_put_?= =?utf-8?q?on_tr=27s=29?= Message-ID: <20110905170321.D0541187670@autox.team.net> Members Car Gallery http://www.mg-tabc.org/supercharger/j_redman/super-charger-JR.htm Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone From tr3 at roadrunner.com Mon Sep 5 11:42:38 2011 From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (Hdefer) Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 10:42:38 -0700 Subject: [TR] Photos of Mr2 supercharger on mg tc (can be put on tr's) In-Reply-To: <20110905170321.D0541187670@autox.team.net> References: <20110905170321.D0541187670@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <406BC8EF-8C0A-4821-9ECD-46671C309840@roadrunner.com> Looks great for fuel injected cars, perhaps, but not much good for our older carbureted TR's. Hans On Sep 5, 2011, at 10:03 AM, spook01 at comcast.net wrote: > Members Car Gallery > > http://www.mg-tabc.org/supercharger/j_redman/super-charger-JR.htm > > Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ > tr3 at roadrunner.com From tr3 at roadrunner.com Mon Sep 5 12:02:32 2011 From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (Hdefer) Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 11:02:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] windshield seal.......nafziger forgot to mention for tr-3 In-Reply-To: <000301cc6be0$bdeca270$39c5e750$@net> References: <1315234001.67765.YahooMailNeo@web65314.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> <000301cc6be0$bdeca270$39c5e750$@net> Message-ID: <6157E917-189A-4B0E-A8CB-F0081F47E6BC@roadrunner.com> Is a seal needed here or do I use silicon sealant of some kind? I would stick with the intended glazing strip. I found it to be quite a job, though- a rubber mallet is very useful here. I had to start over three times before I got it right. Fortunately, you can get the needed experience by doing it over and over again without much risk of damaging the frame ,windshield or strip. I considered using silicon after the first two attempts; am glad didn't. It's messy, often hard to remove and not original. Hans TR3A On Sep 5, 2011, at 8:29 AM, Carl TR wrote: > Both should be the same or at least interchangeable. It is a "glazing > strip" about 2 1/2" wide that is wrapped over the side & top edge > of the > glass (then trimmed to "fit"). It is also possible that you could > buy it > locally at a glass shop. > > I have TRF's if you need actual measurements. > Carl > > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary Nafziger > Sent: Monday, September 05, 2011 10:47 AM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] windshield seal.......nafziger forgot to mention for > tr-3 > > Oh my.....forgot to mention windshield was for tr-3 > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ > tr3 at roadrunner.com From dconnitt at fuse.net Mon Sep 5 12:41:44 2011 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 14:41:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] Huge Progress (to me). Message-ID: List, After a big setback on painting the engine compartment on my TR4A IRS and ending up with a huge dose of fisheye.. I was able to get not only the engine compartment painted, but the entire interior of the car including the trunk all painted!!! I invested in a better spraygun and had done some research on fisheye causes. I washed the entire inside of the car with Dawn dishwashing soap before I started sanding it and also afterwards too. If I had some chicken bones I would have thrown them under the thing too but the fisheye is gone!!! I guess if Dawn works on ducks with crude on them, fisheye is nothing.. What is in that stuff?? I posted some pictures on my website if you want to check it out. Go to the progress page and click on the top link. I can't believe I have the tub now ready to drop back on the frame. Hopefully, I can get that done next weekend. Just it time for the one who must be obeyed to have her garage spot back just before winter... Her car is 4 years old and has never been in the garage. Yea, I know... Regards, Dave Connitt '67 TR4A IRS http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a From spook01 at comcast.net Mon Sep 5 12:50:48 2011 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Mon, 05 Sep 2011 13:50:48 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Photos_of_Mr2_supercharger_on_mg_tc_=28can_be_put_?= =?utf-8?b?b24gIHRyJ3Mp?= Message-ID: <20110905185055.8B09A1878EC@autox.team.net> Actually, you may notice the installation is fueled by SU carb. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Hdefer" To: "Triumph List" Subject: [TR] Photos of Mr2 supercharger on mg tc (can be put on tr's) Date: Mon, Sep 5, 2011 12:42 Looks great for fuel injected cars, perhaps, but not much good for our older carbureted TR's. Hans On Sep 5, 2011, at 10:03 AM, spook01 at comcast.net wrote: > Members Car Gallery > > http://www.mg-tabc.org/supercharger/j_redman/super-charger-JR.htm > > Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/> tr3 at roadrunner.com triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Mon Sep 5 14:23:26 2011 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 13:23:26 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] GM Alternator for TR3 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1315254206.9637.YahooMailNeo@web120209.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Tony i bought a gm alternator for my TR3. ask for a 1978 chevy camaro 350 with air Frank From: Anthony Cascio To: email list Sent: Sunday, September 4, 2011 10:19 AM Subject: [TR] GM Alternator for TR3 List I am looking for the preferred model GM alternator number for a TR3. I have one on the car now but it's been powder coated, so I can't see the numbers on the case. I could remove it and take it to the dealer and they could figure it out, but I don't want to tie the car up right now, it's still good driving weather. I used to have this info on my old computer but that crashed.....I would greatly appreciate any help with this. I plan on replacing the current unit and would purchase a new unit before removing the old one. Thanks in advance Tony Cascio 58 TR3A TS27093L allegrorover at mac.com www.triumphowners.com/1489 triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From tr3 at roadrunner.com Mon Sep 5 14:45:28 2011 From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (Hdefer) Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 13:45:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] does the fan pull off the battery when the car's off? In-Reply-To: <1315251959.39425.YahooMailClassic@web113805.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <1315251959.39425.YahooMailClassic@web113805.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Ann. Are you in a humid / cold climate? Is the inside connector contact surface to the battery terminal (shiny) clean? Make sure the connector is good and tight. If these conditions are not met, a common symptom is that the car will start just fine when cold but doesn't when hot. I highly recommend those chemically treated felt rings that go on the bat. terminals to prevent resistance build-up from the battery fumes, to keep them clean. The other possibility is that your starter needs work. A quick and dirty way to check if your electical system is still sneaking battery current, when ignition and all lights are off, is removing the battery cable connector from the battery and see if it sparks when you touch or strike it against the battery terminal. There should be absolutely no sparking. If you are handy with a voltmeter, there are better ways. Let me know. I bought an electric fan with thermostat from Pep Boys for $79. A real lifesaver for those old English cars! Not that hard to install. Al I had to do was remove the grill to mount it on the radiator. Hans On Sep 5, 2011, at 12:45 PM, Ann Carletta wrote: > Hi Hans, > > heater fan. I don't have a radiator fan installed, which might have > saved me a lot of money this summer. The tube to the overflow tank > actually melted when I got stuck in traffic on the hottest day in > history. I wound up replacing the thermostat, water pump (which I > think was the real problem), radiator duct, temperature guage and a > few other things. She was still running a little warm and I > realized I had the license plate blocking the radiator grill, so > lowered it and now she seems fine, as far as temperature goes. I > know the heater fan goes off when I stop the engine, but wasn't sure > if it could still pull from the battery if the switch was left on. > > I charged the battery yesterday and she started and ran fine today. > I was worried it might be the starter. I guess it was just not > using it for a few weeks. (hopefully). > > Ann > > --- On Sun, 9/4/11, Hdefer wrote: > > From: Hdefer > Subject: Re: [TR] does the fan pull off the battery when the car's > off? > To: "Ann Carletta" > Date: Sunday, September 4, 2011, 11:23 PM > > Hi Ann, > Are you referring to the heater fan (blower) or radiator fan? > Your car does not come with an electric radiator cooling fan from > the factory. If it has one, someone (wisely) installed one. > Some systems are: > a) only thermostatically controlled or > b) only manually controlled with an added switch or > c) a thermostatically controlled fan that can be overridden with > a manual switch. > > In some installations, the fan may be connected directly to the > battery, in which case the fan continues to run until the rad. is > cooled off below 180 degrees, unless the thermostat is faulty and > fails to shut it off, resulting in your battery being drained. The > radiator fan is quite noisy and you should hear it if it is still > running after the engine is shut off. > Mine is the c) configuration so it never runs after the ignition is > off. > The heater fan should turn off with the ignition switch. > Hans > TR3A > > > > On Sep 4, 2011, at 3:43 PM, Ann Carletta wrote: > > > Hi guys, > > > > I went to start the TR3A today and she was slow to turn over. I > got her > > started and was driving around. Later in the day I went to go out > again and > > she didn't want to turn over. Does leaving the fan/blower in the > on position > > pull from the battery when the car is off? The battery is only a > year old. > > What other things should I check? > > > > Ann > > > > TR3A > > > > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3 at roadrunner.com From trglory at verizon.net Mon Sep 5 15:35:09 2011 From: trglory at verizon.net (Joseph Laurito) Date: Mon, 05 Sep 2011 17:35:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] wiring question In-Reply-To: <9795DA250F1A48E086B81059771DF7A2@DCH6RFC1> References: <9795DA250F1A48E086B81059771DF7A2@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: <002e01cc6c13$afe76e20$0fb64a60$@net> Andrew; I had a friend of mine look at his TR250 for these wires. He verified that he does have a white and a black wire by the brake proportioning valve but they are not attached to anything. White is switched power and black is ground, so check them when you get power in the car to make sure they are live. Then put caps on them and save them as a source of switched power that you might need in the future. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard Sent: Thursday, September 01, 2011 8:15 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] wiring question I am installing a new harness in my TR250 (thanks to Marv Gruber) and have come across two wires I cannot account for. They arise adjacent to the brake safety, and are both about 3 inches long. One is white and one black. There were no corresponding wires in the old harness. I am assuming the black is a ground, but the white? By the way, this is not the ignition feed to the coil, which comes off in a loom about a further down the main harness. Does anyone have any ideas? Andrew Uprichard triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trglory at verizon.net From spitlist at cox.net Mon Sep 5 16:04:46 2011 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 15:04:46 -0700 Subject: [TR] wiring question In-Reply-To: <002e01cc6c13$afe76e20$0fb64a60$@net> References: <9795DA250F1A48E086B81059771DF7A2@DCH6RFC1> <002e01cc6c13$afe76e20$0fb64a60$@net> Message-ID: <4F7BEB21CFAF49D78916DBA208BD2709@Vista> Considering what I've been hearing, I would conclude that the extra wires are for some option that may or may not be installed. Overdrive immediately comes to mind. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joseph Laurito Sent: Monday, September 05, 2011 2:35 PM To: 'Andrew Uprichard'; 6pack at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] wiring question Andrew; I had a friend of mine look at his TR250 for these wires. He verified that he does have a white and a black wire by the brake proportioning valve but they are not attached to anything. White is switched power and black is ground, so check them when you get power in the car to make sure they are live. Then put caps on them and save them as a source of switched power that you might need in the future. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard Sent: Thursday, September 01, 2011 8:15 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] wiring question I am installing a new harness in my TR250 (thanks to Marv Gruber) and have come across two wires I cannot account for. They arise adjacent to the brake safety, and are both about 3 inches long. One is white and one black. There were no corresponding wires in the old harness. I am assuming the black is a ground, but the white? By the way, this is not the ignition feed to the coil, which comes off in a loom about a further down the main harness. Does anyone have any ideas? Andrew Uprichard triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trglory at verizon.net triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net From tr3 at roadrunner.com Mon Sep 5 17:37:06 2011 From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (Hdefer) Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 16:37:06 -0700 Subject: [TR] does the fan pull off the battery when the car's off? In-Reply-To: <1315256246.42885.YahooMailClassic@web113812.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <1315256246.42885.YahooMailClassic@web113812.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <36CA2B15-B158-4A9F-A036-B6346A4B6212@roadrunner.com> On Sep 5, 2011, at 1:57 PM, Ann Carletta wrote: > Does it make a difference if I leave the battery in the house vs. > the shed for the winter? The most important thing is to keep the battery charged or "floated" There are special little inexpensive float chargers available for that. Make sure it has clamps so you can clamp it directly to the battery terminals. Allowing the battery to discharge completely takes a chunk out of its life each time. When living in Edmonton, Canada (temperatures sometimes around minus 30 degrees), I used to leave the battery in the car while being float charged in the winter. I would only take it inside when needed prior to starting. A very cold battery can crank only at a fraction of its capacity. From agraham at execulink.com Tue Sep 6 09:36:37 2011 From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham) Date: Tue, 06 Sep 2011 11:36:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 water pump repair. Message-ID: <4E663E05.8040605@execulink.com> Hello List: September already! Minor setback with the ongoing TR2 resurrection. Leaks from the water pump. Should have addressed this when it was on the bench! Wanted to know if it is possible to remove the pump (front portion) from the engine with the radiator in place. Looks as though it is possible. Are there seals available for this pump? Couldn't find any on the 'big three' listings. Looks as though they are a carbon (?) type of seal. Not the usual neoprene type. Thanks in advance for any help with this one. Angelo Graham From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Tue Sep 6 10:18:29 2011 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2011 12:18:29 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 water pump repair. In-Reply-To: <4E663E05.8040605@execulink.com> References: <4E663E05.8040605@execulink.com> Message-ID: seals avaialbe - look for seals for a Massey-Ferguson TEA20 - Found it in an email from our departed friend Fred Thomas. A quick google found a seal here: http://www.agrilineproducts.com/partscatalogue/water_pumps.html As inexpensive as water pumps are these days - I wonder why you don't go for a new one? They will lack the grease fitting - but the last one I bought had the boss for one and I replaced my water pump in the TR4 without any radiator conflicts - can't be sure on the TR2 - I haven't taken mine off in over 30 years.... On Tue, Sep 6, 2011 at 11:36 AM, Angelo Graham wrote: > Hello List: > September already! > Minor setback with the ongoing TR2 resurrection. Leaks from the water pump. > Should have addressed this when it was on the bench! > Wanted to know if it is possible to remove the pump (front portion) from > the engine with the radiator in place. Looks as though it is possible. Are > there seals available for this pump? Couldn't find any on the 'big three' > listings. Looks as though they are a carbon (?) type of seal. Not the usual > neoprene type. > Thanks in advance for any help with this one. > Angelo Graham From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 6 10:31:27 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2011 09:31:27 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 water pump repair. In-Reply-To: <4E663E05.8040605@execulink.com> References: <4E663E05.8040605@execulink.com> Message-ID: <05ae01cc6cb2$6ddcd7f0$499687d0$@rr.com> > Wanted to know if it is possible to remove the pump (front portion) > from the engine with the radiator in place. Should be, barely. > Are there seals available for this pump? TRF has the seal listed, under PN 148322. But make sure the bearings are good first as a bad bearing is usually what starts the seal leaking, and the bearings are unobtanium AFAIK. Several people have tried sourcing them from bearing suppliers, etc but they are a long-obsolete size. Two more suggestions: 1) If you can push the pulley onto the shaft by hand, use Loctite "Circular Parts Mount" (sorry, don't recall the part number offhand) to hold it in place. The nut, washer & key are NOT enough if the pulley is not a press fit onto the shaft. The belt tries to pull the pulley downward, and if it moves at all (even imperceptibly), it will eventually waddle out the bore in the pulley and break the shaft. Then most likely ruin the fan & radiator as well. (I got lucky, mine just bounced off the electric fan guard.) 2) Unless extremely strict originally is important, I would replace the captive bolt with a stud & nut. It will make the next water pump change go easier, even if you don't use one of the aftermarket pumps that requires the stud. -- Randall From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Tue Sep 6 12:47:23 2011 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2011 11:47:23 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 water pump repair. In-Reply-To: <05ae01cc6cb2$6ddcd7f0$499687d0$@rr.com> References: <4E663E05.8040605@execulink.com> <05ae01cc6cb2$6ddcd7f0$499687d0$@rr.com> Message-ID: If the pulley is a really snug fit a simple puller can be made from a couple of pieces of angle iron and some bolts: http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/PumpPuller2.JPG http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/waterpump.JPG http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/PumpPuller1.JPG Better than tugging hard until the thing finally comes loose and flies forward into the radiator. Geo From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 6 13:31:56 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2011 12:31:56 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 water pump repair. In-Reply-To: References: <4E663E05.8040605@execulink.com> <05ae01cc6cb2$6ddcd7f0$499687d0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <064801cc6ccb$a46e6180$ed4b2480$@rr.com> > Better than tugging hard until the thing finally comes loose and flies > forward into the radiator. Just for clarity, I strongly recommend removing the pump from the car first, and then removing the pulley at the bench. The pump will come off with the bolt still trapped between the pulley & pump; although you may have to undo each fastener partially before removing any of them. And IMO it should be a tight enough fit that some sort of puller (like Geo's) is necessary. But I just used an ordinary 'gear' puller, with a small socket over the threaded portion of the shaft. -- Randall From tr3 at roadrunner.com Tue Sep 6 17:51:35 2011 From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (Hdefer) Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2011 16:51:35 -0700 Subject: [TR] Toilet Paper Oil Filters. What happened? Message-ID: I remembered all the hype and controversy about toilet paper oil filters from the 70's, when I accidently ran into this site: http://answers.edmunds.com/question-Who-sells-toilet-paper-oil-filters-these-days-49875.aspx and found particularly interesting the answer from "Jack 137" I am very curious if any of the list guys have had any experience with these. Hans From pcaffrey at ymail.com Tue Sep 6 18:00:26 2011 From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey) Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2011 17:00:26 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Seat Belts Message-ID: <1315353626.13980.YahooMailClassic@web59708.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Hi List,I think it's time to replace my original seat belts....I usually forget to buckle-up in the car, but passengers have reminded me of how dilapidated the belts look. So, does anyone have experience with inertia reel belts? Is it better to go with original belts? Any suggestions on a supplier? I prefer not to do any modifications to the car when installing the new belts.Thank you for any information. PatTR4A, 671CTC/72746-L From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Tue Sep 6 18:10:21 2011 From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com) Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2011 20:10:21 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Seat Belts Message-ID: <3213c.6d6b999b.3b98106d@aol.com> Securon is a tried and true brand of seat belts for our cars. I'm guessing you must have lap belts only and that you want to replace them with lap belts, which is easy. If you want to change to 3-point belts, though, Securon does make them. That could lead into a never-ending discussion, though, on height of top point mounting in relation to the shoulder, why we should always mount the top point to a roll over bar, etc. Regardless, I've always had good luck with Securon, and I've fitted their belts to a large number of British cars over the last 20+ years. Tim TR3A TS22930 LO Hi List,I think it's time to replace my original seat belts....I usually forget to buckle-up in the car, but passengers have reminded me of how dilapidated the belts look. So, does anyone have experience with inertia reel belts? Is it better to go with original belts? Any suggestions on a supplier? I prefer not to do any modifications to the car when installing the new belts.Thank you for any information. PatTR4A, 671CTC/72746-L triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/kingscreektrees at aol.com From pcaffrey at ymail.com Tue Sep 6 18:39:34 2011 From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey) Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2011 17:39:34 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Seat Belts Message-ID: <1315355974.34370.YahooMailClassic@web59713.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Hi Tim,>>I'm guessing you must have lap belts only and that you want to replace them with lap >>belts No, I don't have lap belts. Part of the belt connects to the rear wheel housing, so I probably have 3 point belts....Thanks for the info on Securon....I hope all is going well.Pat triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/kingscreektrees at aol.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 6 19:12:11 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2011 18:12:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] Toilet Paper Oil Filters. What happened? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <06ca01cc6cfb$2c858240$859086c0$@rr.com> > I am very curious if any of the list guys have had any experience > with these. Not directly, but a gearhead friend of mine ran one for several years many years ago. He didn't notice any change in fuel consumption and really didn't run it long enough to notice any change in wear. His interest was in the "never change oil again" claim and felt that it performed as advertised. I don't recall offhand how many miles he went without changing the oil; but it stayed visibly clean and IIRC he also had its condition confirmed by a lab at least twice. But note that the TP has to be changed every 1000 miles, and you lose about a quart of oil every time you change it. So all of the oil additives, TBN etc are kept up by the constant addition of oil. He eventually got tired of changing the TP (very messy operation) and took it off. He also had a hard time finding the specified toilet paper. I don't recall the details, but I think it had to be single-ply and a certain number of sheets per roll or something like that. Anyway, it wasn't the usual stuff you find in grocery stores and was only available in cases. -- Randall From tr3 at roadrunner.com Tue Sep 6 20:55:53 2011 From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (Hdefer) Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2011 19:55:53 -0700 Subject: [TR] Toilet Paper Oil Filters. What happened? In-Reply-To: <06ca01cc6cfb$2c858240$859086c0$@rr.com> References: <06ca01cc6cfb$2c858240$859086c0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <55A7A634-8E60-4D1E-98DA-AE673D422D59@roadrunner.com> > But note that the TP has to be changed every 1000 miles, According to one manufacturer it is every 3000 mi.: After you install your Frantz Oil Filter, the first element change should be at 500 miles. Thereafter, these standard guidelines should be followed. Gasoline engines: Change your TP Element every 2000-3000 miles. Diesel Engines: Change your TP Element every 1500-2500 miles. Change more often for dusty driving conditions. Hans On Sep 6, 2011, at 6:12 PM, Randall wrote: >> I am very curious if any of the list guys have had any experience >> with these. > > Not directly, but a gearhead friend of mine ran one for several > years many > years ago. He didn't notice any change in fuel consumption and really > didn't run it long enough to notice any change in wear. His > interest was in > the "never change oil again" claim and felt that it performed as > advertised. > I don't recall offhand how many miles he went without changing the > oil; but > it stayed visibly clean and IIRC he also had its condition confirmed > by a > lab at least twice. > > But note that the TP has to be changed every 1000 miles, and you > lose about > a quart of oil every time you change it. So all of the oil > additives, TBN > etc are kept up by the constant addition of oil. > > He eventually got tired of changing the TP (very messy operation) > and took > it off. He also had a hard time finding the specified toilet > paper. I > don't recall the details, but I think it had to be single-ply and a > certain > number of sheets per roll or something like that. Anyway, it wasn't > the > usual stuff you find in grocery stores and was only available in > cases. > > -- Randall From tr3 at roadrunner.com Tue Sep 6 21:14:35 2011 From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (Hdefer) Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2011 20:14:35 -0700 Subject: [TR] Toilet Paper Oil Filters. What happened? In-Reply-To: <002801cc6cfb$9b99f0d0$d2cdd270$@charter.net> References: <002801cc6cfb$9b99f0d0$d2cdd270$@charter.net> Message-ID: > I can imagine > what the bottom of the oil pan must look like, filled with paper > particles. > Apparently not a problem according to Frantz Oil Filters: "Have you ever had someone say to you "that toilet paper oil filter will ruin your engine?" "All that paper will dissintegrate and go throughout your engine clogging up your lines, oil pump, filter, and eventually seize your engine making it worthless." Well, fear not. Have you ever accidentally dropped a roll of toilet paper into the toilet? Perhaps your youngster did it for you. Did it dissolve? Of course not. The paper has a tendency to cling to itself and doesn't even unwind easily. That same characteristic occurs only even more so when dealing with oil. First, the entire roll is supported upon a reinforced screed inside the Frantz Oil Filter unit. A metal tube goes up through the cardboard tube from the base of the Frantz Oil Filter unit and is locked in place by a snap ring circumferencing the outer edge on top of the roll of paper. Held tightly and snug inside the cannister now, the TP is ready to go to work for you filtering the foreign substance and materials that actually does the harm to your engine." From: http://www.frantzoil.com/TOILETPAPER.html Hans On Sep 6, 2011, at 6:15 PM, Alex & Janet Thomson wrote: > I remember seeing those filters in the Whitney catalog years ago. If > they > were any good, they would probably be sold today. Remember, by design, > toilet paper is supposed to disintegrate when it gets wet. I can > imagine > what the bottom of the oil pan must look like, filled with paper > particles. > Current by-pass oil filters for trucks, such as those built by Luber- > Finer, > are a whole different item. > > Alex Thomson > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Hdefer > Sent: Tuesday, September 06, 2011 7:52 PM > To: Triumphs List > Subject: [TR] Toilet Paper Oil Filters. What happened? > > I remembered all the hype and controversy about toilet paper oil > filters > from the 70's, when I accidently ran into this site: > > http://answers.edmunds.com/question-Who-sells-toilet-paper-oil-filters-these > -days-49875.aspx > > and found particularly interesting the answer from "Jack 137" > > I am very curious if any of the list guys have had any experience with > these. > > Hans > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Wed Sep 7 10:17:07 2011 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Wed, 7 Sep 2011 09:17:07 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] tr-3 gas guage Message-ID: <1315412227.52094.YahooMailNeo@web65312.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> List, Now I did it. I've taken my tr-3 fuel guage all apart and find myself in trouble. The confusion comes from the two posts inside with copper wife coiled around them. These posts also have a strand of thin copper wire connecting them to each other. The top of each post has a small steel plate with a half moon curve on one side. My question is: do these half moons on the post plates go a certain direction such as toward each other or away from each other or towards the sensor that lays beside the posts and controls the needle. I'm afraid these half moons..........might need to be adjusted by how they're turned or what distance they lie from the sensor. Anyone have suggestions or experiences with these guages? thanks gary n. From wbeech at flash.net Wed Sep 7 10:51:14 2011 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Wed, 7 Sep 2011 11:51:14 -0500 Subject: [TR] tr-3 gas guage In-Reply-To: <1315412227.52094.YahooMailNeo@web65312.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> References: <1315412227.52094.YahooMailNeo@web65312.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Gary, Here is a link to a good MG guy, same gauges, that should be helpful. http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/fg_03.htm OR, call Morris at West Valley Instruments in Reseda, CA and send it to him for repair. Sorry, but I cannot help you with your copper wife... you're on your own. Good luck, Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary Nafziger Sent: Wednesday, September 07, 2011 11:17 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] tr-3 gas guage List, Now I did it. I've taken my tr-3 fuel guage all apart and find myself in trouble. The confusion comes from the two posts inside with copper wife coiled around them. These posts also have a strand of thin copper wire connecting them to each other. The top of each post has a small steel plate with a half moon curve on one side. My question is: do these half moons on the post plates go a certain direction such as toward each other or away from each other or towards the sensor that lays beside the posts and controls the needle. I'm afraid these half moons..........might need to be adjusted by how they're turned or what distance they lie from the sensor. Anyone have suggestions or experiences with these guages? thanks gary n. triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From dave1massey at cs.com Wed Sep 7 11:51:24 2011 From: dave1massey at cs.com (Dave Massey) Date: Wed, 7 Sep 2011 13:51:24 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] tr-3 gas guage In-Reply-To: <1315412227.52094.YahooMailNeo@web65312.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> References: <1315412227.52094.YahooMailNeo@web65312.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8CE3B9DE4BD2CE9-1F60-663CD@webmail-d029.sysops.aol.com> Yes, you did do it. I did it too. Wish I hadn't. I was able to figure out how it goes back together (but I forget how) but then there is the issue of calibration. You will notice that those posts mount into slots. You must adjust the relative positions of these to get the gauge to read empty when the tank is empty and full when the tank is full and moving one changes the calibration of the other. I got mine back together but the calibration is less than perfect. And getting it back together without breaking the wire is tricky. Good luck Dave -----Original Message----- From: Gary Nafziger List, Now I did it. I've taken my tr-3 fuel guage all apart and find myself in trouble. The confusion comes from the two posts inside with copper wife coiled around them. These posts also have a strand of thin copper wire connecting them to each other. The top of each post has a small steel plate with a half moon curve on one side. My question is: do these half moons on the post plates go a certain direction such as toward each other or away from each other or towards the sensor that lays beside the posts and controls the needle. I'm afraid these half moons..........might need to be adjusted by how they're turned or what distance they lie from the sensor. Anyone have suggestions or experiences with these guages? From cofrog at q.com Wed Sep 7 11:55:45 2011 From: cofrog at q.com (cofrog at q.com) Date: Wed, 7 Sep 2011 13:55:45 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Gearbox In-Reply-To: <1662750477.1238069.1315417473013.JavaMail.root@md04.quartz.synacor.com> Message-ID: <1135187759.1238689.1315418145647.JavaMail.root@md04.quartz.synacor.com> I'm probably fishing without bait but......I had a gearbox go southB in my TR4A at last weekends race in Hastings, Nebraska and am looking for another one to use and keep as a spare until funds permit rebuilding the unhappy OD gearbox.B I don't need an OD box to do this and I'm in the Denver area.B I'm hoping there are some folks around Denver who have done the 5 speed conversion on their 4A - TR6 and have the old servicable unit underfoot they wnat to clearout. Thanks, DanB B B B From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Wed Sep 7 12:02:30 2011 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Wed, 7 Sep 2011 11:02:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] Seat Belts In-Reply-To: <1315355974.34370.YahooMailClassic@web59713.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <1315355974.34370.YahooMailClassic@web59713.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: P Caffrey wrote: > Hi List,I think it's time to replace my original seat belts.... > > No, I don't have lap belts. Part of the belt connects to the rear wheel > housing, so I probably have 3 point belts.... > I which case, I don't think you have original belts. Geo From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Sep 7 12:41:31 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 7 Sep 2011 11:41:31 -0700 Subject: [TR] tr-3 gas guage In-Reply-To: References: <1315412227.52094.YahooMailNeo@web65312.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <080401cc6d8d$c6960ac0$53c22040$@rr.com> > Here is a link to a good MG guy, same gauges, that should be helpful. > http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/fg_03.htm I agree, except that the MG gauge isn't quite identical to the TR3 gauge. The TR3 uses a slightly different range of resistances for the sender, hence the resistors used during the calibration procedure are different. > My question is: do these half > moons on > the post plates go a certain direction such as toward each other or > away > from each other or towards the sensor that lays beside the posts and > controls the needle. The half moons are pole pieces, and need to face the piece that controls the needle. Close, but not quite touching. The gap is what adjusts the calibration of the gauge. -- Randall From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Wed Sep 7 16:09:44 2011 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Wed, 7 Sep 2011 18:09:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] Seat Belts References: <1315355974.34370.YahooMailClassic@web59713.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: If a TR4A the outer belts do connect at a point low on the wheel housing. 3 Points would connect up higher but be careful and follow instructions closely as that 3rd point for a shoulder belt I believe needs to be higher than ones neck. Tough to do on a TR. Maybe someone else can be more specific as to the 3rd point. JVV ----- Original Message ----- From: "Geo Hahn" To: "P Caffrey" Cc: Sent: Wednesday, September 07, 2011 2:02 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Seat Belts >P Caffrey wrote: > >> Hi List,I think it's time to replace my original seat belts.... >> > > >> No, I don't have lap belts. Part of the belt connects to the rear wheel >> housing, so I probably have 3 point belts.... >> > > I which case, I don't think you have original belts. > > Geo > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jerryvv at roadrunner.com From allegrorover at mac.com Wed Sep 7 16:44:42 2011 From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio) Date: Wed, 07 Sep 2011 18:44:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] alternator Message-ID: Thanks to all that replied to request for help on the alternator. The GM 7127 is the correct one and I have ordered a replacement. Thanks again Tony Cascio 58 TR3A TS27093L allegrorover at mac.com www.triumphowners.com/1489 From pcaffrey at ymail.com Wed Sep 7 17:36:02 2011 From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey) Date: Wed, 7 Sep 2011 16:36:02 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Seat Belts In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1315438562.93354.YahooMailClassic@web59707.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Thanks, Jerry....My outer belt connects on the upper part of the wheel housing, about 6 1/2 inches from the rear panel. The other part of the belt is anchored a little forward of the wheel housing base....At 6'3" the upper part of the belt is definately lower than my neck....Perhaps I should just go with lap belts.Pat >If a TR4A the outer belts do connect at a point low on the wheel housing. 3 >Points would connect up higher but be careful and follow instructions >closely as that 3rd point for a shoulder belt I believe needs to be higher >than ones neck. Tough to do on a TR. > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jerryvv at roadrunner.com From diggle at clear.net.nz Thu Sep 8 01:13:59 2011 From: diggle at clear.net.nz (diggle at clear.net.nz) Date: Thu, 08 Sep 2011 19:13:59 +1200 Subject: [TR] Bearings Message-ID: <4e686b37.89.64a5.5802@clear.net.nz> First I'd like to thank the people who have replied to my past posts. I am about to remove the engine/gearbox to detail the engine bay. I can buy reticulated Tin bearings in New Zealand but am confused as to what is a reticulated tin bearing. I have googled it and am no wiser. Having read TJ wakemans info plus past post etc, I understand that tri-metal is better than bi-metal (or glacier)bearings. Is this so and does anyone know where reticulated Tin fits into the equation? As always any help appreciated Jims 1962 TR4 From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Thu Sep 8 06:41:49 2011 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Thu, 8 Sep 2011 08:41:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] Looking for TR250 or TR6 front crossmember for charity car Message-ID: Hi List - A friend of mine had a 1972 TR6 project car he donated to Wheels For Hope in Raleigh NC. He and a bunch of other volunteers, including many independent garage owners are donating parts and time to rebuild this car from the ground up and auction it off to support this charity. So far, I'm kicking myself for not buying this from him when I had the chance - The frame looks nearly perfect. We stripped it down and boxed in the frame areas this past weekend. But we are missing the front crossmember. Does anyone out there have a spare they can donate? If it's in the NC area we can probably arrange a pickup, if not - I'll pay for shipping - preferably greyhound bus or some other cheap transport. Thanks! Chris TR4 TR2 From aljlthomson at charter.net Thu Sep 8 08:04:40 2011 From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson) Date: Thu, 8 Sep 2011 10:04:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] Looking for TR250 or TR6 front crossmember for charity car In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000601cc6e30$4207ba30$c6172e90$@charter.net> Chris - I think I have one. But, I am in Connecticut. If you need it, let me know. Alex Thomson -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Simo Sent: Thursday, September 08, 2011 8:42 AM To: list Triumph Subject: [TR] Looking for TR250 or TR6 front crossmember for charity car Hi List - A friend of mine had a 1972 TR6 project car he donated to Wheels For Hope in Raleigh NC. He and a bunch of other volunteers, including many independent garage owners are donating parts and time to rebuild this car from the ground up and auction it off to support this charity. So far, I'm kicking myself for not buying this from him when I had the chance - The frame looks nearly perfect. We stripped it down and boxed in the frame areas this past weekend. But we are missing the front crossmember. Does anyone out there have a spare they can donate? If it's in the NC area we can probably arrange a pickup, if not - I'll pay for shipping - preferably greyhound bus or some other cheap transport. Thanks! Chris TR4 TR2 triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Thu Sep 8 11:29:46 2011 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Thu, 8 Sep 2011 13:29:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] Looking for TR250 or TR6 front crossmember for charity car In-Reply-To: <000601cc6e30$4207ba30$c6172e90$@charter.net> References: <000601cc6e30$4207ba30$c6172e90$@charter.net> Message-ID: Crossmember located. Thanks Jack!!! From tr3 at roadrunner.com Thu Sep 8 17:33:11 2011 From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (Hdefer) Date: Thu, 8 Sep 2011 16:33:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] Seat Belts In-Reply-To: <1315438562.93354.YahooMailClassic@web59707.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <1315438562.93354.YahooMailClassic@web59707.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I am 6'- 2" + and had been through this 2- or 3 - point seatbelt dilemma too, until a physical therapist friend convinced me to change my lap belts to a 3 point set. His point was that he much rather have his neck and/or shoulder tweaked than being slammed into that TR3 steering hub. One theory presented by someone else was , that the typical reaction ,when anticipating a head collision, would be to push hard on the brakes with the right foot, thus somewhat twisting your body counter clockwise and dropping the left shoulder which would minimize injury; true or not, the 3-point, though not ideal, is still far safer than the 2-point option. Clearly, the best way is a properly engineered roll bar with the higher attachment, or better yet, a 4-point racing harness. To obtain the highest possible point with the retractor the farthest away from my shoulder, and thus minimizing the pull-down force vector, I bolted the retractors on top of the wheel housing under fender top; i.e. they are bolted between the "rear seat" panel and the trunk back panel each side of the fuel tank. I found that there was enough of a gap between the wheel housing top and the "rear seat" panel for the belt to slide through easily. If you are interested, I 'll gladly post some pics of the details. Hans On Sep 7, 2011, at 4:36 PM, P Caffrey wrote: > Thanks, Jerry....My outer belt connects on the upper part of the wheel > housing, about 6 1/2 inches from the rear panel. The other part of > the belt is > anchored a little forward of the wheel housing base....At 6'3" the > upper part > of the belt is definately lower than my neck....Perhaps I should > just go with > lap belts.Pat >If a TR4A the outer belts do connect at a point low > on the > wheel housing. 3 >> Points would connect up higher but be careful and follow instructions >> closely as that 3rd point for a shoulder belt I believe needs to be >> higher >> than ones neck. Tough to do on a TR. > >> triumphs at autox.team.net >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jerryvv at roadrunner.com > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3 at roadrunner.com From mcmeganutt at aol.com Fri Sep 9 12:43:01 2011 From: mcmeganutt at aol.com (mcmeganutt at aol.com) Date: Fri, 9 Sep 2011 14:43:01 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] CTRiumph.com 31st Annual Show Message-ID: <8CE3D376F808876-1890-8EC7@webmail-stg-d12.sysops.aol.com> MARK THIS DAY ON YOUR CALENDAR: SEPTEMBER 11TH 2011!! 31st ANNUAL BRITISH MOTORCAR GATHERING AND PICNIC Sunday, September 11th, 2011 / Wickham Park, Manchester, CT / Exit 60 off I-84 Venue The Connecticut Triumph Register invites anyone with a British motorcar or motorcycle of any make, model, and condition to join the fun. Wickham Park, with 250 acres of gardens, open fields, woodlands, ponds, picnic areas, sports facilities,and other attractions, is a beautiful venue for this autumn event. Signs within the park will direct participants to the registration and field parking area. Dash plaques will be provided while supplies last. Food and Family Fun Meet and mingle with other Triumph and British vehicle owners. Bring your own picnic or purchase food and beverage at the event. Tennis and volleyball courts are available. Class awards and raffle are the afternoon highlight. You must be present to win raffle items. Regalia CTR t-shirts, golf shirts, hats, decals, and pins will be available for purchase. Schedule 9:30 AM - 11:00 AM: Registration and Preparation 11:00 AM - 12:30 PM: Judging (participantbs choice) Class Awards @ 1:30 PM; Raffles @ 12:30 and 2PM From diggle at clear.net.nz Fri Sep 9 18:00:05 2011 From: diggle at clear.net.nz (diggle at clear.net.nz) Date: Sat, 10 Sep 2011 12:00:05 +1200 Subject: [TR] They are a great investment Message-ID: <4e6aa885.18f.d9d.15578@clear.net.nz> A black 1962 TR4 recently sold for US$44,000. They are a good investment after all and mine's also black. All I have to do is freight it to the states after converting it to LHD. After more than 26years together mine won't be departing my company in the near future or hopefully ever. here's the link to RMAUCTIONS http://www.rmauctions.com/AuctionResults.cfm?SaleCode=MO11&SortBy=RO&View=Normal&Category=Cars&Currency=USD&tempstartrow=76¤tpage=4&Collection=# From mcmeganutt at aol.com Sat Sep 10 17:01:57 2011 From: mcmeganutt at aol.com (mcmeganutt at aol.com) Date: Sat, 10 Sep 2011 19:01:57 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Fwd: CTR Wickham Park Event In-Reply-To: <000f01cc7008$645ae6f0$2d10b4d0$@charter.net> References: <000f01cc7008$645ae6f0$2d10b4d0$@charter.net> Message-ID: <8CE3E24C6337CAF-32AC-13030@webmail-stg-m02.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: Alex & Janet Thomson To: Alex & Janet Thomson Sent: Sat, Sep 10, 2011 6:24 pm Subject: CTR Wickham Park Event CTR Members b The rain and clouds have disappeared and the 31st Annual British Motorcar Gathering and Picnic is ready to go! It will take place tomorrow 9/11 at Wickham Park in Manchester. Not able to drive your LBC? Thatbs okay- come to the Gathering to mingle with other members and guests from other British Car Clubs. See some exquisite examples of restoration. Also, see some daily drivers b the kind of car that so many of us enjoy. Get your technical questions answered. Bring a picnic or buy lunch provided by the Boy Scouts. Check the direct link below for details. See you tomorrow! Alex and Janet Thomson Connecticut Triumph Register http://www.ctriumph.com/triumph_7-a_019.htm From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com Mon Sep 12 08:19:05 2011 From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2011 10:19:05 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] They are a great investment Message-ID: <4f51.1384b2d.3b9f6ed9@aol.com> I always hate to hear what a great investment our cars are because mine's not an investment. Concerns me that the TR4A I drive so much is worth more than I could afford now, even though I paid $1,000. for it in 1985. Never gonna be sold - as long as I have a pulse, anyway, so the price doesn't matter. George Haynes From wayne at motorcarriage.com Mon Sep 12 10:05:08 2011 From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee) Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2011 12:05:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] They are a great investment In-Reply-To: <4f51.1384b2d.3b9f6ed9@aol.com> References: <4f51.1384b2d.3b9f6ed9@aol.com> Message-ID: <5BEE5F9EA17449D4AAAE0C60AC9FD599@Engineering> Hi all, I don't mean to hijack the thread, especially with a shameless plug, but it is On Topic. I have a great 1964 TR4 project Car For Sale. I reduced the price from $3500. to $2500. while it was on craigslist. It's also on VTR but I don't think the new price is there. Nice straight Tub. Complete but the Engine is removed by previous owner. Engine still complete assembly and turns over freely. Carbs and Header still in place under the Hood. A couple tires flat on their American Racing Wheels from sitting out back behind the Garage covered. Original BRG Paint. I also have a 69 Spitfire Mk3 project disassembled, but solid Tub and nice Nose. $750.00. email for pics to wayne at sportsracer.com Regards, Wayne Lee Douglas, MA -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of GHaynesTR4 at aol.com Sent: Monday, September 12, 2011 10:19 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] They are a great investment I always hate to hear what a great investment our cars are because mine's not an investment. Concerns me that the TR4A I drive so much is worth more than I could afford now, even though I paid $1,000. for it in 1985. Never gonna be sold - as long as I have a pulse, anyway, so the price doesn't matter. George Haynes triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wayne at motorcarriage.com ======= Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found. (Email Guard: 7.0.0.21, Virus/Spyware Database: 6.18300) http://www.pctools.com/ ======= ======= Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found. (Email Guard: 7.0.0.21, Virus/Spyware Database: 6.18300) http://www.pctools.com/ ======= From lherault at bu.edu Mon Sep 12 12:54:43 2011 From: lherault at bu.edu (Ron L'Herault) Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2011 14:54:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] car for sale? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Which reminds me, a friend of mine would like to buy a TR 250. He wants one that does not need restoration (the works been done?) and is a good solid car, not a bond special. Anyone know of such a car? Ron L Message: 2 Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2011 12:05:08 -0400 From: "Wayne Lee" To: Subject: Re: [TR] They are a great investment Message-ID: <5BEE5F9EA17449D4AAAE0C60AC9FD599 at Engineering> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hi all, I don't mean to hijack the thread, especially with a shameless plug, but it is On Topic. I have a great 1964 TR4 project Car For Sale. ------------------------------ _______________________________________________ From thenicholls at verizon.net Mon Sep 12 17:54:18 2011 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2011 18:54:18 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] 1972 Triumph TR6 Clutch Master cylinder leaking Message-ID: <449118444.5726896.1315871658921.JavaMail.root@vznit170064> Already been down this road once. Replaced clutch master with a Girling purchased from TRF 6/22/07. Well, I guess I should say I got 4 good years. It is now leaking on the inside of the car. I have a really nice paper towel wrapped around it. Does anyone on the list have any recommendations for a clutch master brand that will actually last? I read lots of bad stuff in the archive, and the comment from the British car shop that replaced it before said "anything in a white box is trouble". Suggestions? Thanks, Craig Vienna, VA From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Sep 12 20:19:22 2011 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2011 22:19:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] 1972 Triumph TR6 Clutch Master cylinder leaking In-Reply-To: <449118444.5726896.1315871658921.JavaMail.root@vznit170064> References: <449118444.5726896.1315871658921.JavaMail.root@vznit170064> Message-ID: <6140D3BDFFE14C689B74468583F2883B@BobPC> Craig, Even though you bought it from TFR...... you might want to read about Moss doing a M/C recall. http://www.mossmotors.com/SiteGraphics/Pages/brake_recall.html?utm_source=MossMotors&utm_medium=SecondHomepageBanner&utm_campaign=BrakeRecall or if that doesn't work try the short URL http://tinyurl.com/5t3z8xc Bob Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 1975 TR6 with: Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff & CVJs -----Original Message----- From: thenicholls at verizon.net Sent: Monday, September 12, 2011 7:54 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] 1972 Triumph TR6 Clutch Master cylinder leaking Already been down this road once. Replaced clutch master with a Girling purchased from TRF 6/22/07. Well, I guess I should say I got 4 good years. It is now leaking on the inside of the car. I have a really nice paper towel wrapped around it. Does anyone on the list have any recommendations for a clutch master brand that will actually last? I read lots of bad stuff in the archive, and the comment from the British car shop that replaced it before said "anything in a white box is trouble". Suggestions? Thanks, Craig Vienna, VA triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From jmitch at snet.net Mon Sep 12 20:37:37 2011 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2011 22:37:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] I think my coil died Message-ID: <4E6EC1F1.7090909@snet.net> I took the TR6 out for gas and it ran great until the engine got hot. Then it stalled and all attempts to restart failed, although it sounded like it wanted to catch. I got towed home and a few hours later, it started right up, but died once it got hot. Does that sound like a bad coil? I have an NOS Lucas HP6 coil and was wondering if I can use that. My car is 76 with ballast resistor. Can I use a 6 volt coil, or do I need a special 12 volt coil? Thanks very much, John Mitchell 76 TR6 72 Stag From tr6parts at charter.net Mon Sep 12 21:01:10 2011 From: tr6parts at charter.net (tr6parts at charter.net) Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2011 23:01:10 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] 1972 Triumph TR6 Clutch Master cylinder leaking Message-ID: <69e5a3b3.1e6549.13260bb27fc.Webtop.46@charter.net> Moss recalled their " Classic Gold" made in China model, definately not a Girling. I had a C.G. unit that wouldn't hold pressure right out of the box. So four years sounds pretty good. It should still be good with new seals. Al On Mon, Sep 12, 2011 at 10:19 PM, Bob Danielson wrote: > Craig, > Even though you bought it from TFR...... you might want to read about > Moss doing a M/C recall. > > http://www.mossmotors.com/SiteGraphics/Pages/brake_recall.html?utm_source=MossMotors&utm_medium=SecondHomepageBanner&utm_campaign=BrakeRecall > > or if that doesn't work try the short URL > > http://tinyurl.com/5t3z8xc > > Bob > > > Bob Danielson > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > 1975 TR6 with: > Throttle Body Injection > Toyota 5 Speed > Nissan Diff & CVJs From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Sep 12 22:17:11 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2011 21:17:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] I think my coil died In-Reply-To: <4E6EC1F1.7090909@snet.net> References: <4E6EC1F1.7090909@snet.net> Message-ID: <1a8d01cc71cc$02b8e300$0301a8c0@randall> > I took the TR6 out for gas and it ran great until the engine got > hot. Then it stalled and all attempts to restart failed, although it > sounded like it wanted to catch. I got towed home and a few hours > later, it started right up, but died once it got hot. Does > that sound > like a bad coil? That's almost exactly the way my bad coil acted. -- Randall From anabil007 at comcast.net Tue Sep 13 00:27:30 2011 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh) Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2011 23:27:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] I think my coil died In-Reply-To: <4E6EC1F1.7090909@snet.net> References: <4E6EC1F1.7090909@snet.net> Message-ID: <5C5D37A0-1771-4656-99C6-3961290A7243@comcast.net> Those were the very same results, from the very same reasons ... hot engine ... replacing the coil fixed it just fine ... Can't say about the ballast resistor, but I would imagine 12 volts would be correct ... they seem to be in every thing since 12 volt batteries were put on the market. On Sep 12, 2011, at 7:37 PM, John Mitchell wrote: > I took the TR6 out for gas and it ran great until the engine got hot. Then it stalled and all attempts to restart failed, although it sounded like it wanted to catch. I got towed home and a few hours later, it started right up, but died once it got hot. Does that sound like a bad coil? I have an NOS Lucas HP6 coil and was wondering if I can use that. My car is 76 with ballast resistor. Can I use a 6 volt coil, or do I need a special 12 volt coil? Thanks very much, John Mitchell 76 TR6 72 Stag > "Life is too short to drive Boring Cars" Bill Pugh Wallace, CA anabil007 at comcast.net From lgmtr6 at yahoo.com Tue Sep 13 03:16:44 2011 From: lgmtr6 at yahoo.com (lgmtr6) Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2011 09:16:44 +0000 Subject: [TR] I think my coil died In-Reply-To: <4E6EC1F1.7090909@snet.net> References: <4E6EC1F1.7090909@snet.net> Message-ID: John You say the car is a 76 but has a ballast resistor? A stock 76 has a ballast resistor built into the harness. If you are running an additional ballast resistor, you may be cutting the voltage down twice. I'm not saying that the coil isn't bad, but check a proper wiring diagram and use a meter to check if you have correct voltage at the coil. This may be the cause of the failed coil. Larry Miceli Mount Dora, Fla 58 TR3 73 Stag 74 TR6 71 XKE OTS 87 XJ6 VDP Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry -----Original Message----- From: John Mitchell Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2011 22:37:37 To: 6-Pack<6pack at autox.team.net>; Triumph List Subject: [TR] I think my coil died I took the TR6 out for gas and it ran great until the engine got hot. Then it stalled and all attempts to restart failed, although it sounded like it wanted to catch. I got towed home and a few hours later, it started right up, but died once it got hot. Does that sound like a bad coil? I have an NOS Lucas HP6 coil and was wondering if I can use that. My car is 76 with ballast resistor. Can I use a 6 volt coil, or do I need a special 12 volt coil? Thanks very much, John Mitchell 76 TR6 72 Stag triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/lgmtr6 at yahoo.com From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Tue Sep 13 04:37:10 2011 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2011 06:37:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] I think my coil died In-Reply-To: <20110913100502.A46751878B2@autox.team.net> References: <4E6EC1F1.7090909@snet.net> <20110913100502.A46751878B2@autox.team.net> Message-ID: My tr4 did the same thing when I bought gas with water in it. It would run and die. Cooling and it would run for a while... Bought new coil at nearby flaps and ut ran great only to die a few miles down the road. Changed condenser sane thing. Finally pulled the bowl and it was 3/4 full of water ... ran great for five miles and I pulled over and dumped more water. Repeated for the rest of the tank and used dry gas for next few fill ups. Chris From david.brister at wanadoo.fr Tue Sep 13 08:21:13 2011 From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister) Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2011 16:21:13 +0200 Subject: [TR] I think my coil died In-Reply-To: References: <4E6EC1F1.7090909@snet.net><20110913100502.A46751878B2@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <720CF6806AFD438D81852BEB27DB1B73@dbristerPC> I had this symptom many years back and it was the 2 year old coil gone home. Turned out I had been running this coil without a ballast resistor. I fitted a 12v coil which is still running on that car 20+ years later. I think there is a case for fitting a 12v coil and bypassing the ballast resistor. Of course YMMV, David Brister, CTC77785 O -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 7 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 568 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Professional version does not have this message From guy at genfiniti.com Tue Sep 13 13:04:46 2011 From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins) Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2011 14:04:46 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4A - Door Seals Too Thick Message-ID: <6886B75D-AF36-45F3-A5C3-6A7D1D901658@genfiniti.com> All, Years ago I bought both the inner and outer doors seals from TRF for my TR4A. With the outer door seals in place, I cannot close the door all the way. When I remove them, the doors close just fine. Are the TRF seals just too damned thick? If so, has anyone a recommendation for seals that are not too thick? Is there a way to thin mine out with a slice here and there? Cheers, Guy D. Huggins 1965 Triumph TR4A CTC 63569LO Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Tue Sep 13 14:18:40 2011 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2011 13:18:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4A - Door Seals Too Thick In-Reply-To: <6886B75D-AF36-45F3-A5C3-6A7D1D901658@genfiniti.com> References: <6886B75D-AF36-45F3-A5C3-6A7D1D901658@genfiniti.com> Message-ID: On Tue, Sep 13, 2011 at 12:04 PM, G.D. Huggins wrote: > Years ago I bought both the inner and outer doors seals from TRF for my > TR4A. > With the outer door seals in place, I cannot close the door all the way... > When I did new seals on my TR4 doors I could only get the doors fully closed by slamming them. After a couple of months they were fine, closes like a refrigerator now (no slamming needed). Just had to let the seals take a 'set'. Geo From wayne at motorcarriage.com Tue Sep 13 15:17:43 2011 From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee) Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2011 17:17:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] 1964 TR4 For Sale in Mass. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Nice solid straight Tub. Engine is out but is complete together and turns freely. Carbs and Header in tact under Hood. American Racing Mags. I'm reducing price to $2500.00 in order to free up space. Please email for pictures. Some rust on outer rockers. Has never been patched up, and still Has original BRG Paint I believe. Includes Fiberglass Top. Sold TR6, this one and a 69 Spitfire Mk3 must go to make room for 71 March 719 Vintage Formula Ford. Otherwise, I'd hold onto the TR4. Cheers, Wayne Lee Douglas, MA 508-499-6746 wayne at sportscracer.com for pictures. I will get more once the Spit is moved and I can get this in the driveway. ======= Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found. (Email Guard: 7.0.0.27, Virus/Spyware Database: 6.18310) http://www.pctools.com/ ======= From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Tue Sep 13 17:24:13 2011 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2011 19:24:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4A - Door Seals Too Thick References: <6886B75D-AF36-45F3-A5C3-6A7D1D901658@genfiniti.com> Message-ID: <70C98BF1259B4712AB48C8EA1E60A868@userb38463fba5> I recently installed new seals and fuzzy door trim bought from TRF on my TR4A. They were 2 separate pieces. If you bought a while ago you may have the combination style and that could be the problem. Is that what you have? JVV ----- Original Message ----- From: "G.D. Huggins" To: ; Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2011 3:04 PM Subject: [TR] TR4A - Door Seals Too Thick > All, > > Years ago I bought both the inner and outer doors seals from TRF for my > TR4A. > With the outer door seals in place, I cannot close the door all the way. > When I remove them, the doors close just fine. > > Are the TRF seals just too damned thick? > If so, has anyone a recommendation for seals that are not too thick? > Is there a way to thin mine out with a slice here and there? > > > > Cheers, > > Guy D. Huggins > 1965 Triumph TR4A > CTC 63569LO From tony at tonydrews.com Tue Sep 13 22:44:33 2011 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2011 23:44:33 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR-7 on Craigslist Message-ID: <20110914044453.415F818764F@autox.team.net> http://quadcities.craigslist.org/cto/2586425928.html 1979 TR-7, original owner, $4900 NFI Tony Drews From jmerone at rocketmail.com Wed Sep 14 07:13:37 2011 From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone) Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2011 06:13:37 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] British Invasion and Vermont road closures Message-ID: <1316006017.14295.YahooMailNeo@web160315.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> All: As many of you are well aware, many portions of Vermont got the heck kicked out of it during Tropical Storm Irene. The number of houses, roads, and bridges that were destroyed or heavily damaged are still being counted. Northern Vermont (including Stowe) escaped relatively unscathed, with the middle and southern portions of the state suffering the worst of it. So, if you are headed up to the British Invasion this weekend, many of your favorite driving routes up here may not be open, or if they are - will be restricted. Our iconic Route 100 is one example. Check out the state's Agency of Transportation web site at www.511vt.com for the most up-to-date information. Weekend weather looks very favorable for the show - sunny, sunny with temps in the 60s. For a variety of reasons though, there's worries that attendance will be down this year, so I hope to see as many of you here as possible. Drive safe, Joe Merone South Burlington, VT CF 18928 5-speed From tr6driver at earthlink.net Wed Sep 14 07:15:02 2011 From: tr6driver at earthlink.net (Jamie Palmer) Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2011 09:15:02 -0400 (GMT-04:00) Subject: [TR] 280ZX Wheels...lug nuts? Message-ID: <13437674.1316006102753.JavaMail.root@wamui-junio.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Ok, folks... I've seen many 280ZX wheels on TR's over the years...RiffRAF Racing has purchased two sets, but we're having difficulty finding lug nuts that will work. What have you folks used? Please reply quickly as we have a race coming up and need to get these wheels ready...thanks! Jamie Palmer From allenhess at mgcarclub.com Wed Sep 14 15:04:25 2011 From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess) Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2011 17:04:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4A - Door Seals Too Thick In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4F153D9E-D92F-4EDB-96A2-1E9AD8442651@mgcarclub.com> I did mine (TR4) about 11 years ago now. I ended up buying door and trunk seals from TRF and Moss. In the end, the trunk seal from one vendor fit and the door seal from the other fit. Each other seal was too thick. Trimming and slicing doesn't work. Unfortunately ($) I would recommend buying from one of the other vendors. There's also MacGregor's in Canada but they may only do MGs. Allen On Sep 14, 2011, at 2:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > Years ago I bought both the inner and outer doors seals from TRF for > my TR4A. > With the outer door seals in place, I cannot close the door all the > way. > When I remove them, the doors close just fine. > > Are the TRF seals just too damned thick? > If so, has anyone a recommendation for seals that are not too thick? > Is there a way to thin mine out with a slice here and there? From carlsereda at aol.com Wed Sep 14 15:16:18 2011 From: carlsereda at aol.com (carlsereda) Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2011 14:16:18 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 door seals In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Hi Guy, I also bought the TRF door seals and yes - they are not a great fit. I lost the bidding war on eBay for a NOS set of TR4 door seals but the fellow was kind enough to send me a slice off an end for comparison. The aftermarket seals are different in just about every measurement - but what are ya gonna do? I will be following Geo's advice and hoping for the best. Before painting my door 'steel seal channels' I will have to pinch them closed a bit otherwise the new rubber strips pop out too easy around corners as the rubber footing portion of new seals are made smaller than the originals. I have a cel phone photo of the NOS and TRF door seal profiles shown side-by-side if you're interested. Good luck, Carl '63 TR4 since '74 Years ago I bought both the inner and outer doors seals from TRF for my TR4A. With the outer door seals in place, I cannot close the door all the way. When I remove them, the doors close just fine. Are the TRF seals just too damned thick? If so, has anyone a recommendation for seals that are not too thick? Is there a way to thin mine out with a slice here and there? Cheers, Guy D. Huggins 1965 Triumph TR4A CTC 63569LO From terryrs at comcast.net Wed Sep 14 16:13:11 2011 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2011 22:13:11 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3A Engine Removeal In-Reply-To: <4f51.1384b2d.3b9f6ed9@aol.com> Message-ID: <1471556536.731570.1316038391608.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Hello everyone. When I rebuilt my TR3A engine last, the car was down to the frame. Now I need to tear it down it's in the car. So...question. Can I just pull the valance and the transmission tunnel to yank out the engine and transmission, or do I have to take off the fenders too? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From TR250Driver at aol.com Wed Sep 14 16:30:36 2011 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2011 18:30:36 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] TR4A - Door Seals Too Thick/Trunk Seal Message-ID: <6e05d.4ae325b3.3ba2850c@aol.com> I will be watching this one. The trunk seal on my newly restored TR250 is just too damned thick as well. Not sure where it came from, HELP! Darrell In a message dated 9/13/2011 3:55:34 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, guy at genfiniti.com writes: Are the TRF seals just too damned thick? If so, has anyone a recommendation for seals that are not too thick? Is there a way to thin mine out with a slice here and there? From tr3 at roadrunner.com Wed Sep 14 16:33:48 2011 From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (Hdefer) Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2011 15:33:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] Seat belt pictures In-Reply-To: <58E9A32C-372A-457E-8D61-F03A0AB30B37@ties2.net> References: <284E2CD7-4419-47C9-AD12-AF9BD5DF4774@roadrunner.com> <58E9A32C-372A-457E-8D61-F03A0AB30B37@ties2.net> Message-ID: Yes, just Moss kits. Those digital pics can be quite flattering, though. On Sep 14, 2011, at 6:58 AM, Joe DeMuth wrote: > Thanks for the great pictures. Boy, I wish my interior was that > nice. Did you do that yourself? > > > On Sep 11, 2011, at 2:02 PM, Hdefer wrote: > >> Joe, Attached are the shots, that I think are helpful. >> Unfortunately, I don't remember the brand. I do not see a brand >> name on it anywhere . I suspect it may be stamped on top of the >> retractor which is not visible. There are plenty retrofits on >> line. I got mine, I think, from Amazon.com. I paid about $75.00 >> each. I ordered one at a time to make sure the retractor was not >> too bulky to fit and mounted with one large bolt as shown. I also >> liked the modern snap female buckle with the cable type attachment >> to the floor. >> I'll dig through my files for info. regarding the belts I got. >> Hans >> >> >> >> On Sep 10, 2011, at 7:26 AM, Joe DeMuth wrote:> Removed.jpg> >>> I would very much like to see pictures of your installation. My >>> wife has been after me for years to do this. Also, what brand of >>> belts did you use? Thanks. From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Wed Sep 14 17:13:30 2011 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2011 19:13:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4A - Door Seals Too Thick References: <4F153D9E-D92F-4EDB-96A2-1E9AD8442651@mgcarclub.com> Message-ID: The TR4 trunk seals are too thick. I was told to buy the TR6 trunk seal for my 4A by a member of one of the big 3 and did so. Glad that I did, it works fine and is not too thick. I bought door seals from TRF and painstakingly inserted them into the seal channel (fingers got pretty raw) using WD40 and a plastic seal tool. No issues with the thickness or the seals themselves, work well and their cross section looks to be identical as my original seals. You need to adjust the door latches properly so as the doors don't try and latch too deep into the door jamb and align well with the fender panels. JVV ----- Original Message ----- From: "Allen Hess" To: Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2011 5:04 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A - Door Seals Too Thick >I did mine (TR4) about 11 years ago now. I ended up buying door and > trunk seals from TRF and Moss. In the end, the trunk seal from one > vendor fit and the door seal from the other fit. Each other seal was > too thick. Trimming and slicing doesn't work. Unfortunately ($) I > would recommend buying from one of the other vendors. There's also > MacGregor's in Canada but they may only do MGs. > > Allen > On Sep 14, 2011, at 2:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > >> Years ago I bought both the inner and outer doors seals from TRF for >> my TR4A. >> With the outer door seals in place, I cannot close the door all the >> way. >> When I remove them, the doors close just fine. >> >> Are the TRF seals just too damned thick? >> If so, has anyone a recommendation for seals that are not too thick? >> Is there a way to thin mine out with a slice here and there? From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Sep 14 17:38:12 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2011 16:38:12 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 door seals In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <002001cc7337$5eb00050$1c1000f0$@rr.com> Just a thought, Carl, you might try contacting Martin Macgregor (sp?) and see if he would be interested in doing a more accurate reproduction. The "fuzzy" seals he produces now are fantastic. I would also enjoy having a copy of any photos or measurements you take. Don't know that it will ever happen, but someday I'd like to learn how to extrude "rubber" moldings. After I quit my day job, of course. -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Sep 14 17:40:32 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2011 16:40:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Engine Removeal In-Reply-To: <1471556536.731570.1316038391608.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <4f51.1384b2d.3b9f6ed9@aol.com> <1471556536.731570.1316038391608.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <002101cc7337$b1fc4fc0$15f4ef40$@rr.com> > Can I just pull the valance and the transmission tunnel to yank out the > engine and transmission, or do I have to take off the fenders too? Nope, fenders can stay. Be sure to plan what to do with the chrome 'beads', as they have a tendency to fly around and scratch the paint. -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Sep 14 17:44:14 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2011 16:44:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] 280ZX Wheels...lug nuts? In-Reply-To: <13437674.1316006102753.JavaMail.root@wamui-junio.atl.sa.earthlink.net> References: <13437674.1316006102753.JavaMail.root@wamui-junio.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <002201cc7338$363a1240$a2ae36c0$@rr.com> > I've seen many 280ZX wheels on TR's over the years...RiffRAF Racing has > purchased two sets, but we're having difficulty finding lug nuts that > will work. What have you folks used? Please reply quickly as we have > a race coming up and need to get these wheels ready...thanks! Likely it depends on which wheels you have. For my aftermarket Datsun wheels, I measured the hole diameter and depth, then found some suitable lug nuts at one of the racer supply houses. Summit I think, but might have been Jegs. They came in a kit that included the heavy flat washers between the nuts & wheels. -- Randall From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed Sep 14 18:39:23 2011 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2011 20:39:23 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4A - Door Seals Too Thick In-Reply-To: <4F153D9E-D92F-4EDB-96A2-1E9AD8442651@mgcarclub.com> References: <4F153D9E-D92F-4EDB-96A2-1E9AD8442651@mgcarclub.com> Message-ID: <849D7DDFAA424FE0B3A89ED5764EB4C8@BobPC> You might want to check out Martin MacGregor (http://www.macgregorukcarparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=Triumph) (or http://tinyurl.com/5s5yndw) for the various seals. His Bristleflex ones are excellent and he makes/carries all sorts of for doors, tops, hoods etc. Maybe he has what you want. Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 1975 TR6 with: Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff & CVJs ----Original Message----- From: Allen Hess Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2011 5:04 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A - Door Seals Too Thick I did mine (TR4) about 11 years ago now. I ended up buying door and trunk seals from TRF and Moss. In the end, the trunk seal from one vendor fit and the door seal from the other fit. Each other seal was too thick. Trimming and slicing doesn't work. Unfortunately ($) I would recommend buying from one of the other vendors. There's also MacGregor's in Canada but they may only do MGs. Allen On Sep 14, 2011, at 2:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > Years ago I bought both the inner and outer doors seals from TRF for > my TR4A. > With the outer door seals in place, I cannot close the door all the > way. > When I remove them, the doors close just fine. > > Are the TRF seals just too damned thick? > If so, has anyone a recommendation for seals that are not too thick? > Is there a way to thin mine out with a slice here and there? From sumton at sbcglobal.net Thu Sep 15 06:19:54 2011 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 07:19:54 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 door seals In-Reply-To: <002001cc7337$5eb00050$1c1000f0$@rr.com> References: <002001cc7337$5eb00050$1c1000f0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <17378F786DF8451D8CE2A03D9F610396@ranteer.local> I have used martin macgregor's stuff and its very nice (905)627-4006 -------------------------------------------------- From: "Randall" Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2011 6:38 PM To: Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 door seals > Just a thought, Carl, you might try contacting Martin Macgregor (sp?) and > see if he would be interested in doing a more accurate reproduction. The > "fuzzy" seals he produces now are fantastic. From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Thu Sep 15 06:23:18 2011 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 05:23:18 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 Sun Visors Message-ID: <1316089398.20845.YahooMailRC@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> The driver's side sun visor on my TR3 fell off the other day. Where the little set-screw clamps down on the windscreen frame broke out a little triangular piece of the frame. Has anyone else had this happen? I've tried to put a little cut piece of steel between the set-screw and the frame so the set-screw has something to press against, but there is not enough room for a strong enough piece of steel. I am thinking about JB Welding it on next. I thought that maybe someone else had had this happen to them before. I might just have to find a replacement windshield frame... TIA, Bill in Tehachapi From wbeech at flash.net Thu Sep 15 08:22:51 2011 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 09:22:51 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A Engine Removal In-Reply-To: <1471556536.731570.1316038391608.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <4f51.1384b2d.3b9f6ed9@aol.com> <1471556536.731570.1316038391608.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Terry, Removal of the fenders(wings) not necessary, just cover them with a good blanket so they don't get damaged while you are working on the car. It is all pretty straightforward once you get started. First drain all your fluids, then trans tunnel, driveshaft, front valance, radiator, frame crossmember, grounding strap, carbs & linkage, exhaust, wiring and fuel lines. I'm sure I have missed something but it will be apparent to you once you get started. I did it all in about 5 hours the first time by my self. One thing I learned was it helps to have the car about 10" off the ground so you can get a good tilt as you are coming out and going in, this helps to avoid the binding point at the firewall and the accelerator linkage. One thing I learned was that the optional alloy oil pan creates a problem too as far as smooth removal so if you have one I would recommend removing it first (I will next time). Enjoy, Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of terryrs at comcast.net Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2011 5:13 PM To: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR3A Engine Removeal Hello everyone. When I rebuilt my TR3A engine last, the car was down to the frame. Now I need to tear it down it's in the car. So...question. Can I just pull the valance and the transmission tunnel to yank out the engine and transmission, or do I have to take off the fenders too? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From coefront at shaw.ca Thu Sep 15 08:32:01 2011 From: coefront at shaw.ca (Mike Coe) Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 08:32:01 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR6 overdrive Message-ID: One of my Pals has just purchased a superb dark blue TR6 without overdrive. And he's looking to purchase an overdrive for it; or gearbox with overdrive already in place. A solid unit of either is what he only requires please. Thanks. Mike coefront at shaw.ca From brad.kahler at 141.com Thu Sep 15 09:59:18 2011 From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 11:59:18 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 red carpet - FS Message-ID: Sorry to bomb the list. I'd rather not go the ebay route if I don't have too. I have a new red carpet set for a TR3 (later I believe) that came with a project car. If interested please contact me off list. I do have pictures available. Thanks, Brad 1964 TR4 1949 200 Roadster From pethier at comcast.net Thu Sep 15 12:27:12 2011 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 18:27:12 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] British Invasion and Vermont road closures In-Reply-To: <1316006017.14295.YahooMailNeo@web160315.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1166509900.1452481.1316111232101.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> There is nothing in Vermont that is more scenic than the best of Minnesota. The difference is that here in Minnesota we have to go looking for it. In Vermont, it's everywhere. The freeway from Brattleboro to Burlington is gorgeous. Whatever route you find open should be just fine. >From the bridges of Bennington to the view across the lake to the Split Rock Light to the marina in Brattleboro, I enjoyed all I saw in your state in my two brief (and too-brief) visits there. It was like being nostlgic for a place I'd never been. I never got to Stowe, but I'm sure it won't dissapoint. So to the rest of you: If you have never been to Vermont, go. And what better time than for the Invasion? Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://www.mnautox.com ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Joe Merone" > To: "Triumph List" , "6 Pack list" <6pack at autox.team.net> > Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2011 8:13:37 AM > Subject: [TR] British Invasion and Vermont road closures > All: > > As many of you are well aware, many portions of Vermont got the heck > kicked out of it during Tropical Storm Irene. The number of houses, > roads, > and bridges that were destroyed or heavily damaged are still being > counted. > > Northern Vermont (including Stowe) escaped relatively unscathed, with > the > middle and southern portions of the state suffering the worst of it. > So, if > you are headed up to the British Invasion this weekend, many of your > favorite > driving routes up here may not be open, or if they are - will be > restricted. Our iconic Route 100 is one example. Check out the state's > Agency of Transportation web site at www.511vt.com for the most > up-to-date > information. > > Weekend weather looks very favorable for the show - sunny, > sunny with temps in the 60s. For a variety of reasons though, there's > worries > that attendance will be down this year, so I hope to see as many of > you here > as possible. > > Drive safe, > > Joe Merone > South Burlington, VT > CF 18928 > 5-speed From jmerone at rocketmail.com Thu Sep 15 13:21:05 2011 From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone) Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 12:21:05 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] British Invasion and Vermont road closures In-Reply-To: <1166509900.1452481.1316111232101.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <1316006017.14295.YahooMailNeo@web160315.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> <1166509900.1452481.1316111232101.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1316114465.18207.YahooMailNeo@web160313.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Thanks for the sentiment Phil. I'm a 31 year resident (and unabashed state booster) who's had more than a few opportunities to move elsewhere over the years. Each time it didn't take long to get hold of my senses, look around, and ask "Just why exactly would I do such a dumb thing?" So yes, come on up folks. See you this weekend. Joe Merone South Burlington, VT CF18928 From: "pethier at comcast.net" To: Joe Merone Cc: Triumph List ; british-cars at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2011 2:27 PM Subject: Re: [TR] British Invasion and Vermont road closures There is nothing in Vermont that is more scenic than the best of Minnesota. The difference is that here in Minnesota we have to go looking for it. In Vermont, it's everywhere. The freeway from Brattleboro to Burlington is gorgeous. Whatever route you find open should be just fine. >From the bridges of Bennington to the view across the lake to the Split Rock Light to the marina in Brattleboro, I enjoyed all I saw in your state in my two brief (and too-brief) visits there. It was like being nostlgic for a place I'd never been. I never got to Stowe, but I'm sure it won't dissapoint. So to the rest of you: If you have never been to Vermont, go. And what better time than for the Invasion? Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://www.mnautox.com From jdemuth at ties2.net Thu Sep 15 13:46:27 2011 From: jdemuth at ties2.net (Joe DeMuth) Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 14:46:27 -0500 Subject: [TR] Oil in the radiator Message-ID: <3656CEF4-7033-4695-BAFB-F811DA1184E1@ties2.net> OK gang, I need help. The TR3A is using water and it appears there is oily water in the radiator. It does not look like there is water in the oil. I did a compression check and have 150+ lbs/sq-in on all cylinders. I am assuming a head gasket. Is there anything else that could explain the symptoms, and is there any other testing I should do before pulling the head? The gasket that is in the car currently is about 6 years old. I rarely, if ever, drive the car faster than 65 mph. From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Sep 15 14:25:16 2011 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 16:25:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] British Invasion and Vermont road closures In-Reply-To: <1166509900.1452481.1316111232101.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <1166509900.1452481.1316111232101.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: I've been going to Vermont since I was a little kid but only as an adult did I actually feel all tension leave my body as we'd cross the state line. My wife always said how the sheer beauty of the state....... even when just driving on the Interstate....... immediately relaxed her. Bob Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 1975 TR6 with: Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff & CVJs -----Original Message----- From: pethier at comcast.net Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2011 2:27 PM To: Joe Merone Cc: Triumph List ; british-cars at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] British Invasion and Vermont road closures There is nothing in Vermont that is more scenic than the best of Minnesota. The difference is that here in Minnesota we have to go looking for it. In Vermont, it's everywhere. The freeway from Brattleboro to Burlington is gorgeous. Whatever route you find open should be just fine. >From the bridges of Bennington to the view across the lake to the Split Rock Light to the marina in Brattleboro, I enjoyed all I saw in your state in my two brief (and too-brief) visits there. It was like being nostlgic for a place I'd never been. I never got to Stowe, but I'm sure it won't dissapoint. So to the rest of you: If you have never been to Vermont, go. And what better time than for the Invasion? Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://www.mnautox.com ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Joe Merone" > To: "Triumph List" , "6 Pack list" > <6pack at autox.team.net> > Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2011 8:13:37 AM > Subject: [TR] British Invasion and Vermont road closures > All: > > As many of you are well aware, many portions of Vermont got the heck > kicked out of it during Tropical Storm Irene. The number of houses, > roads, > and bridges that were destroyed or heavily damaged are still being > counted. > > Northern Vermont (including Stowe) escaped relatively unscathed, with > the > middle and southern portions of the state suffering the worst of it. > So, if > you are headed up to the British Invasion this weekend, many of your > favorite > driving routes up here may not be open, or if they are - will be > restricted. Our iconic Route 100 is one example. Check out the state's > Agency of Transportation web site at www.511vt.com for the most > up-to-date > information. > > Weekend weather looks very favorable for the show - sunny, > sunny with temps in the 60s. For a variety of reasons though, there's > worries > that attendance will be down this year, so I hope to see as many of > you here > as possible. > > Drive safe, > > Joe Merone > South Burlington, VT > CF 18928 > 5-speed triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Sep 15 15:42:31 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 14:42:31 -0700 Subject: [TR] Oil in the radiator In-Reply-To: <3656CEF4-7033-4695-BAFB-F811DA1184E1@ties2.net> References: <3656CEF4-7033-4695-BAFB-F811DA1184E1@ties2.net> Message-ID: <016201cc73f0$5ff32fa0$1fd98ee0$@rr.com> > is there any other testing I should do > before pulling the head? There is a test that any radiator shop can do for you, where they look for combustion gases in the radiator. Proof of a combustion leak into the water jacket (though it could be a cracked head rather than a leaking head gasket). Mine charged less than $20 last time I had them do it. But I liked the idea so much that I bought the tool. http://www.amazon.com/Great-Neck-Block-Tester/dp/B004FELK6A plus http://www.amazon.com/Test-Fluid-For-Block-Tester/dp/B004FDMVE6 -- Randall From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Thu Sep 15 15:58:04 2011 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 14:58:04 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] wrinkle paint Message-ID: <1316123884.12540.YahooMailNeo@web65309.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Before using wrinkle paint on my dash piece (tr-3) I used some on a scrap piece of steel just to see how it worked. I applied it and let it set the recommended 12 hours to dry. I was very happy with the result...........looked very nice but also found that it scratched very easily with just finger nail scraping. I'm hoping I simply need to let it dry longer to cure completely. I did the work in my basement which might have been 60 some degrees so the temp might be a consideration. I went ahead and sprayed the dash piece this afternoon and will let it set all weekend hopefully to dry nice and hard by monday. Anyone else have any experience with this paint? gary n. From auprichard at uprichard.net Thu Sep 15 16:15:35 2011 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 18:15:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] 65 mph In-Reply-To: <3656CEF4-7033-4695-BAFB-F811DA1184E1@ties2.net> References: <3656CEF4-7033-4695-BAFB-F811DA1184E1@ties2.net> Message-ID: Joe! You rarely drive faster than 65mph? I am going to take the fifth on this, but I was speaking to a guy at the Battle of the Brits (annual show for the Detroit Triumph Sportscar Club last Sunday - and well attended) who had just bought an unrestored TR3 from Canada a month previously. He had gotten caught in a thunderstorm and said how he did 95mph to get home dry. My TR3 has clocked 105 by some reckless individual. I'd be interested in knowing of other owners: cautious cruising or spurious speeding??? And what happens on this chat page stays on this chat page...... Andrew Uprichard Never broke the speed limit -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe DeMuth Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2011 3:46 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Oil in the radiator OK gang, I need help. The TR3A is using water and it appears there is oily water in the radiator. It does not look like there is water in the oil. I did a compression check and have 150+ lbs/sq-in on all cylinders. I am assuming a head gasket. Is there anything else that could explain the symptoms, and is there any other testing I should do before pulling the head? The gasket that is in the car currently is about 6 years old. I rarely, if ever, drive the car faster than 65 mph. triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From auprichard at uprichard.net Thu Sep 15 16:28:31 2011 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 18:28:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] British Invasion and Vermont road closures In-Reply-To: References: <1166509900.1452481.1316111232101.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <978D2BD657D14C9EB61257A3967AC3CD@DCH6RFC1> Ah, I remember the feeling well: drove up from Massachusetts, beautiful fall day, crossed a covered bridge over a sparkling Vermont river, the car sputtered and came to a standstill, miles from civilization............ Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2011 4:25 PM To: pethier at comcast.net Cc: Triumph List Subject: Re: [TR] British Invasion and Vermont road closures I've been going to Vermont since I was a little kid but only as an adult did I actually feel all tension leave my body as we'd cross the state line. My wife always said how the sheer beauty of the state....... even when just driving on the Interstate....... immediately relaxed her. Bob Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 1975 TR6 with: Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff & CVJs -----Original Message----- From: pethier at comcast.net Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2011 2:27 PM To: Joe Merone Cc: Triumph List ; british-cars at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] British Invasion and Vermont road closures There is nothing in Vermont that is more scenic than the best of Minnesota. The difference is that here in Minnesota we have to go looking for it. In Vermont, it's everywhere. The freeway from Brattleboro to Burlington is gorgeous. Whatever route you find open should be just fine. >From the bridges of Bennington to the view across the lake to the Split Rock Light to the marina in Brattleboro, I enjoyed all I saw in your state in my two brief (and too-brief) visits there. It was like being nostlgic for a place I'd never been. I never got to Stowe, but I'm sure it won't dissapoint. So to the rest of you: If you have never been to Vermont, go. And what better time than for the Invasion? Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://www.mnautox.com ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Joe Merone" > To: "Triumph List" , "6 Pack list" > <6pack at autox.team.net> > Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2011 8:13:37 AM > Subject: [TR] British Invasion and Vermont road closures > All: > > As many of you are well aware, many portions of Vermont got the heck > kicked out of it during Tropical Storm Irene. The number of houses, > roads, > and bridges that were destroyed or heavily damaged are still being > counted. > > Northern Vermont (including Stowe) escaped relatively unscathed, with > the > middle and southern portions of the state suffering the worst of it. > So, if > you are headed up to the British Invasion this weekend, many of your > favorite > driving routes up here may not be open, or if they are - will be > restricted. Our iconic Route 100 is one example. Check out the state's > Agency of Transportation web site at www.511vt.com for the most > up-to-date > information. > > Weekend weather looks very favorable for the show - sunny, > sunny with temps in the 60s. For a variety of reasons though, there's > worries > that attendance will be down this year, so I hope to see as many of > you here > as possible. > > Drive safe, > > Joe Merone > South Burlington, VT > CF 18928 > 5-speed triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From don.hiscock at gmail.com Thu Sep 15 18:00:09 2011 From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 19:00:09 -0500 Subject: [TR] wrinkle paint In-Reply-To: <1316123884.12540.YahooMailNeo@web65309.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> References: <1316123884.12540.YahooMailNeo@web65309.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: My experience with wrinkle-finish paint is exactly the same -- good finish but poor adhesion. Not quite fingernail loose, but not strong either. I had the instrument panel of my TR-3B dash powder coated with wrinkle black a year ago. Looks perfect, and (so far) the finish seems quite durable. Don From wayne at motorcarriage.com Thu Sep 15 18:04:49 2011 From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee) Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 20:04:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] 65 mph In-Reply-To: References: <3656CEF4-7033-4695-BAFB-F811DA1184E1@ties2.net> Message-ID: <35A71DAABCC64351AC3AEA79DE84AB5B@Engineering> I think the most credible data you could gather if you're looking at the Car's honest capability would come from people who have had some track time available. Of course everyone can exchange stories, I have a few of my own, but for any individual willing to be reckless and push the envelope on the road, they will be equally at ease pushing it with their tongue. IE: For every Tale there's a Taller One! Did I just make that up? 64 TR4 For Sale $2500.00 69 Spit Solid disassembles $750.00 Plug. Cheers, Wayne -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2011 6:16 PM To: 'Joe DeMuth'; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] 65 mph Joe! You rarely drive faster than 65mph? I am going to take the fifth on this, but I was speaking to a guy at the Battle of the Brits (annual show for the Detroit Triumph Sportscar Club last Sunday - and well attended) who had just bought an unrestored TR3 from Canada a month previously. He had gotten caught in a thunderstorm and said how he did 95mph to get home dry. My TR3 has clocked 105 by some reckless individual. I'd be interested in knowing of other owners: cautious cruising or spurious speeding??? And what happens on this chat page stays on this chat page...... Andrew Uprichard Never broke the speed limit -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe DeMuth Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2011 3:46 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Oil in the radiator OK gang, I need help. The TR3A is using water and it appears there is oily water in the radiator. It does not look like there is water in the oil. I did a compression check and have 150+ lbs/sq-in on all cylinders. I am assuming a head gasket. Is there anything else that could explain the symptoms, and is there any other testing I should do before pulling the head? The gasket that is in the car currently is about 6 years old. I rarely, if ever, drive the car faster than 65 mph. triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wayne at motorcarriage.com ======= Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found. (Email Guard: 7.0.0.27, Virus/Spyware Database: 6.18320) http://www.pctools.com/ ======= ======= Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found. (Email Guard: 7.0.0.27, Virus/Spyware Database: 6.18320) http://www.pctools.com/ ======= From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Sep 15 18:15:53 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 17:15:53 -0700 Subject: [TR] 65 mph In-Reply-To: References: <3656CEF4-7033-4695-BAFB-F811DA1184E1@ties2.net> Message-ID: <01b701cc7405$cd033620$6709a260$@rr.com> > I'd be interested in > knowing of other owners: cautious cruising or spurious speeding??? As a rule, I try to stay within 10 mph or so of the posted limit. But there have been times ... anyone care to calculate 5500 rpm in 4th OD? 4.10 axle, 205/55 tires. My previous TR3A had 3.7 gears and would only pull around 4700 in 4th OD (same tires). -- Randall From emanteno at comcast.net Thu Sep 15 20:21:59 2011 From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey) Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 21:21:59 -0500 Subject: [TR] 65 mph In-Reply-To: References: <3656CEF4-7033-4695-BAFB-F811DA1184E1@ties2.net> Message-ID: On Thu, Sep 15, 2011 at 5:15 PM, Andrew Uprichard wrote: > > My TR3 has clocked 105 by some reckless individual. I'd be interested in > knowing of other owners: cautious cruising or spurious speeding??? And > what happens on this chat page stays on this chat page...... > 97 mph in 5th gear at 4000 rpm (GPS confirmed) on the way to VTR Breckenridge. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, Il From sumton at sbcglobal.net Thu Sep 15 20:30:51 2011 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 21:30:51 -0500 Subject: [TR] 65 mph In-Reply-To: References: <3656CEF4-7033-4695-BAFB-F811DA1184E1@ties2.net> Message-ID: I have a very modified TR6. but above 90 I get a little scared. this thing is 40 years old. and open. I did 140 in a relatively new enclosed car with crumple zones and airbags etc. but this little car . . . -------------------------------------------------- From: "Andrew Uprichard" Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2011 5:15 PM To: "'Joe DeMuth'" ; Subject: [TR] 65 mph > Joe! You rarely drive faster than 65mph? I am going to take the fifth on > this, but I was speaking to a guy at the Battle of the Brits (annual show > for the Detroit Triumph Sportscar Club last Sunday - and well attended) > who > had just bought an unrestored TR3 from Canada a month previously. He had > gotten caught in a thunderstorm and said how he did 95mph to get home dry. > > My TR3 has clocked 105 by some reckless individual. I'd be interested in > knowing of other owners: cautious cruising or spurious speeding??? And > what happens on this chat page stays on this chat page...... > > Andrew Uprichard From spitlist at cox.net Thu Sep 15 20:55:37 2011 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 19:55:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] wrinkle paint In-Reply-To: References: <1316123884.12540.YahooMailNeo@web65309.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Don, I highly suspect that the lack of adhesion is exactly what makes the paint wrinkle in the first place! Add my name to those in favor of wrinkle powder coating. I had my roll bar done that way and it is both very attractive and durable. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Don Hiscock Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2011 5:00 PM To: Gary Nafziger Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] wrinkle paint My experience with wrinkle-finish paint is exactly the same -- good finish but poor adhesion. Not quite fingernail loose, but not strong either. I had the instrument panel of my TR-3B dash powder coated with wrinkle black a year ago. Looks perfect, and (so far) the finish seems quite durable. Don triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net From tartanredmgb at gmail.com Thu Sep 15 21:04:34 2011 From: tartanredmgb at gmail.com (tartanredmgb at gmail.com) Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 20:04:34 -0700 Subject: [TR] Oil in the radiator In-Reply-To: <016201cc73f0$5ff32fa0$1fd98ee0$@rr.com> References: <3656CEF4-7033-4695-BAFB-F811DA1184E1@ties2.net> <016201cc73f0$5ff32fa0$1fd98ee0$@rr.com> Message-ID: Before you remove the head, try retorquing the head bolts. I had a Toyota that was leaking oil and coolant externally, and I did that and it sealed it. What was interesting was how much variation there was in how tight the bolts were. If I remember right, you loosen them first, one at a time prior to tightening each one. On Thu, Sep 15, 2011 at 2:42 PM, Randall wrote: >> is there any other testing I should do >> before pulling the head? > > There is a test that any radiator shop can do for you, where they look for > combustion gases in the radiator. Proof of a combustion leak into the water > jacket (though it could be a cracked head rather than a leaking head > gasket). > > Mine charged less than $20 last time I had them do it. But I liked the idea > so much that I bought the tool. > http://www.amazon.com/Great-Neck-Block-Tester/dp/B004FELK6A > plus > http://www.amazon.com/Test-Fluid-For-Block-Tester/dp/B004FDMVE6 > > -- Randall From drew at graybealdesign.com Thu Sep 15 21:23:01 2011 From: drew at graybealdesign.com (Graybeal Design) Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 20:23:01 -0700 Subject: [TR] Oil in the radiator Message-ID: <4D92DA65762747188BAB838CC5DA5C3A@homemade> Hi Joe, I would think any issue with the head gasket would produce gross overheating. If the head gasket is at fault, you can move the radiator cap (when the engine is cool) then run the engine, and observe bubbling and smell exhaust gas as the bubbles pop. I don't know how oil would get in your radiator unless it was already in the coolant. If there was a breech large enough to leak oil into the cooling system...the water would have forced through under pressure in the direction of the oiling system first and that would be obvious. I don't think you have any issues to worry about. From thenicholls at verizon.net Thu Sep 15 22:47:45 2011 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 23:47:45 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] 65 mph Message-ID: <1537615667.6100911.1316148465303.JavaMail.root@vznit170076> I have a totally unmodified 72 TR6. My friend asked if he could drive it. When he got towards 100 MPH, I almost crapped myself. Thing was shaking like it was going to explode. I had muscle cars in high school, don't feel a need to go their, and all the TR people actually drive the cars. Don't think I have been above 75 since. Craig Vienna, VA 72 TR6 Sep 16, 2011 12:30:22 AM, sumton at sbcglobal.net wrote: I have a very modified TR6. but above 90 I get a little scared. this thing is 40 years old. and open. I did 140 in a relatively new enclosed car with crumple zones and airbags etc. but this little car . . . -------------------------------------------------- From: "Andrew Uprichard" Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2011 5:15 PM To: "'Joe DeMuth'" ; Subject: [TR] 65 mph > Joe! You rarely drive faster than 65mph? I am going to take the fifth on > this, but I was speaking to a guy at the Battle of the Brits (annual show > for the Detroit Triumph Sportscar Club last Sunday - and well attended) > who > had just bought an unrestored TR3 from Canada a month previously. He had > gotten caught in a thunderstorm and said how he did 95mph to get home dry. > > My TR3 has clocked 105 by some reckless individual. I'd be interested in > knowing of other owners: cautious cruising or spurious speeding??? And > what happens on this chat page stays on this chat page...... > > Andrew Uprichard triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net From tony at tonydrews.com Fri Sep 16 03:02:20 2011 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2011 04:02:20 -0500 Subject: [TR] 65 mph In-Reply-To: References: <3656CEF4-7033-4695-BAFB-F811DA1184E1@ties2.net> Message-ID: <20110916090242.54CC6187644@autox.team.net> Indicated 140 in my old 87 Mustang GT, indicated 135 in an Audi 90 (somewhat downhill), and 127 by tach and gearing / tire calculations going into Canada Corner at Road America in my TR-4 (race car). Now that I'm getting "old", I've not topped out the Miata, but have had it over an indicated 100 many times. Tony At 05:15 PM 9/15/2011, Andrew Uprichard wrote: >Joe! You rarely drive faster than 65mph? I am going to take the fifth on >this, but I was speaking to a guy at the Battle of the Brits (annual show >for the Detroit Triumph Sportscar Club last Sunday - and well attended) who >had just bought an unrestored TR3 from Canada a month previously. He had >gotten caught in a thunderstorm and said how he did 95mph to get home dry. > >My TR3 has clocked 105 by some reckless individual. I'd be interested in >knowing of other owners: cautious cruising or spurious speeding??? And >what happens on this chat page stays on this chat page...... > >Andrew Uprichard >Never broke the speed limit > >-----Original Message----- >From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net >[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe DeMuth >Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2011 3:46 PM >To: triumphs at autox.team.net >Subject: [TR] Oil in the radiator > >OK gang, I need help. The TR3A is using water and it appears there is >oily water in the radiator. It does not look like there is water in >the oil. I did a compression check and have 150+ lbs/sq-in on all >cylinders. I am assuming a head gasket. Is there anything else that >could explain the symptoms, and is there any other testing I should do >before pulling the head? The gasket that is in the car currently is >about 6 years old. I rarely, if ever, drive the car faster than 65 mph. > > >triumphs at autox.team.net > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net > > >triumphs at autox.team.net > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com From emanteno at comcast.net Fri Sep 16 05:22:36 2011 From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey) Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2011 06:22:36 -0500 Subject: [TR] 65 mph In-Reply-To: <01b701cc7405$cd033620$6709a260$@rr.com> References: <3656CEF4-7033-4695-BAFB-F811DA1184E1@ties2.net> <01b701cc7405$cd033620$6709a260$@rr.com> Message-ID: On Thu, Sep 15, 2011 at 7:15 PM, Randall wrote: > > I'd be interested in > > knowing of other owners: cautious cruising or spurious speeding??? > > As a rule, I try to stay within 10 mph or so of the posted limit. But > there > have been times ... anyone care to calculate 5500 rpm in 4th OD? 4.10 > axle, > 205/55 tires. My previous TR3A had 3.7 gears and would only pull around > 4700 in 4th OD (same tires). > Assuming your 205/55x15 tires are the same 23.9" in diameter that I found on Tire Rack's website, and a 22% reduction in overdrive, 122 mph. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From tr3a.60 at gmail.com Fri Sep 16 06:55:11 2011 From: tr3a.60 at gmail.com (John Wise) Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2011 08:55:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] 65 mph In-Reply-To: <1537615667.6100911.1316148465303.JavaMail.root@vznit170076> References: <1537615667.6100911.1316148465303.JavaMail.root@vznit170076> Message-ID: <3EF012A5-C8EB-4F46-83EF-95C8710F19C4@gmail.com> OK, lets see, I remember doing 1.25 Mach (a bunch of time), at 20,000 feet MSL, atr a USAF instructor pilot in a T-38 (just one letter short of TR). That was a neat job. But then the airplane had be flight tested to 1.5 Mach, so it was rather boring. :-) John > From: "Andrew Uprichard" > Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2011 5:15 PM > To: "'Joe DeMuth'" ; > Subject: [TR] 65 mph > >> Joe! You rarely drive faster than 65mph? I am going to take the fifth on >> this, but I was speaking to a guy at the Battle of the Brits (annual show >> for the Detroit Triumph Sportscar Club last Sunday - and well attended) >> who >> had just bought an unrestored TR3 from Canada a month previously. He had >> gotten caught in a thunderstorm and said how he did 95mph to get home dry. >> >> My TR3 has clocked 105 by some reckless individual. I'd be interested in >> knowing of other owners: cautious cruising or spurious speeding??? And >> what happens on this chat page stays on this chat page...... >> >> Andrew Uprichard > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3a.60 at gmail.com John A. Wise Ormond Beach, FL 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Fri Sep 16 08:09:54 2011 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2011 10:09:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] 65 mph In-Reply-To: References: <3656CEF4-7033-4695-BAFB-F811DA1184E1@ties2.net> <01b701cc7405$cd033620$6709a260$@rr.com> Message-ID: I can't be sure but in high school I had my TR2's speedometer needle bouncing between 95 and 115...... so I'm saying 95 to 100 mph - and that was fast enough. Where I did this was very stupid, even for me..... More than a few years ago I had my TR4 at VIR and got it up to 102 mph via radar. That was a blast. A few years ago I had a Ford Mondeo (I think it was) station wagon on the autobahn. I was chasing down a friend and going downhill got up to 219kmph or about 135mph -(engine screaming in 5th - 6th gear would do nothing at that speed but slow down) Then a big beamer and a Mercedes blew by me and I bounced several feet towards the shoulder from their wash..... I took it back down to a more reasonable 110 mph. After releasing the seat from my buttocks I really enjoyed the rest of the trip. Chris From pethier at comcast.net Fri Sep 16 08:15:47 2011 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2011 14:15:47 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] 65 mph In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1423661540.1491626.1316182547897.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> > From: "oliver" > I have a very modified TR6. but above 90 I get a little scared. this > thing > is 40 years old. and open. I did 140 in a relatively new enclosed car > with > crumple zones and airbags etc. but this little car . . . I only go fast where it's safe. On a couple of long airport runs (totally legal organized events with a radar gun at the finish line) I easily got the stock TR4 (with soft hood erected!) to 100 MPH, where I lifted for the factory redline. Car was stable and not scary. I'm sure the ADDCO front sway bar helped with this. The airport run we have around here is shorter, and I never got other cars out on the longer ones. Stock 1994 Miata 87 MPH 1979 Caterham Super Seven 92 MPH 2005 Lotus Elise 108 MPH 1965 Griffith 200 106 MPH (less-than-graceful shifting, love to have another shot some day) I'm sure I had the Elise faster than 108 at a track day in West Virginia, but timing and speed checking was prohibited at the event. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://www.mnautox.com From tr3a.60 at gmail.com Fri Sep 16 08:32:29 2011 From: tr3a.60 at gmail.com (John Wise) Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2011 10:32:29 -0400 Subject: [TR] 65 mph In-Reply-To: References: <3656CEF4-7033-4695-BAFB-F811DA1184E1@ties2.net> <01b701cc7405$cd033620$6709a260$@rr.com> Message-ID: <3D58FF5D-05DC-4791-8880-894BD10F317B@gmail.com> > On Thu, Sep 15, 2011 at 7:15 PM, Randall wrote: >>> I'd be interested in knowing of other owners: cautious cruising or spurious speeding??? I have been supersonic a bunch of times. Of course I did it at 20,000 feet and as a USAF instructor pilot flying a Northrop T-3A. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Northrop_T-38_Talon Even in the traffic pattern, final approach speed of a T-38 is between 155 & 175 knots (depending fuel weight). And T-38 is just one letter short & one number more than my "TR-3". But the T-38 has a redline of 1.52 Mach - so it was actuually rather mundane. In addition, the T-38 has a four point harness, I was wearing a helmet, and was sitting on an ejection seat! :-) In my LBCs I have generally stayed close to the speed limit. They have had no crash protection, no top, no interior padding, a lot of protruding switches, no shoulder harness, not even an ejection seat. And my only head protection is a baseball cap. Even in the military, discretion is the greater part of valor! John John A. Wise Ormond Beach, FL 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From zoboherald at aol.com Fri Sep 16 08:34:34 2011 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace) Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2011 10:34:34 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] 65 mph In-Reply-To: <1537615667.6100911.1316148465303.JavaMail.root@vznit170076> References: <1537615667.6100911.1316148465303.JavaMail.root@vznit170076> Message-ID: <8CE4294E386B93F-2480-18B80@webmail-d145.sysops.aol.com> I drove a '60 TR3A regularly in the mid-1970s. Mechanically it was excellent although shod with oversize bias-ply Dunlop Gold Seals; bodily, it did leave a bit to be desired (lots of dents, some rust, no front bumper). Above 80 mph was pretty much out of the question in my mind, at least, since the front end seemed to mostly...well...float.... :( --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.usm From wbeech at flash.net Fri Sep 16 09:07:24 2011 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2011 10:07:24 -0500 Subject: [TR] 65 mph In-Reply-To: <20110916090242.54CC6187644@autox.team.net> References: <3656CEF4-7033-4695-BAFB-F811DA1184E1@ties2.net> <20110916090242.54CC6187644@autox.team.net> Message-ID: 135mph on a Yamaha 250 at Daytona Beach, didn't win but at least qualified for the final. 92mph in Tarbaby trying to show up an old Camaro that though he was hot stuff. Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tony Drews Sent: Friday, September 16, 2011 4:02 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] 65 mph Indicated 140 in my old 87 Mustang GT, indicated 135 in an Audi 90 (somewhat downhill), and 127 by tach and gearing / tire calculations going into Canada Corner at Road America in my TR-4 (race car). Now that I'm getting "old", I've not topped out the Miata, but have had it over an indicated 100 many times. Tony At 05:15 PM 9/15/2011, Andrew Uprichard wrote: >Joe! You rarely drive faster than 65mph? I am going to take the fifth >on this, but I was speaking to a guy at the Battle of the Brits (annual >show for the Detroit Triumph Sportscar Club last Sunday - and well >attended) who had just bought an unrestored TR3 from Canada a month >previously. He had gotten caught in a thunderstorm and said how he did 95mph to get home dry. > >My TR3 has clocked 105 by some reckless individual. I'd be interested >in knowing of other owners: cautious cruising or spurious speeding??? >And what happens on this chat page stays on this chat page...... > >Andrew Uprichard >Never broke the speed limit > >-----Original Message----- >From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net >[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe DeMuth >Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2011 3:46 PM >To: triumphs at autox.team.net >Subject: [TR] Oil in the radiator > >OK gang, I need help. The TR3A is using water and it appears there is >oily water in the radiator. It does not look like there is water in the >oil. I did a compression check and have 150+ lbs/sq-in on all >cylinders. I am assuming a head gasket. Is there anything else that >could explain the symptoms, and is there any other testing I should do >before pulling the head? The gasket that is in the car currently is >about 6 years old. I rarely, if ever, drive the car faster than 65 mph. > > >triumphs at autox.team.net > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net > > >triumphs at autox.team.net > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From wbeech at flash.net Fri Sep 16 09:07:24 2011 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2011 10:07:24 -0500 Subject: [TR] wrinkle paint In-Reply-To: References: <1316123884.12540.YahooMailNeo@web65309.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Ditto... Looks good but is very fragile. Mine came out perfect until I let the bezel slip just a little while installing the choke cable assembly, small flake probably 10x more noticeable to me than anyone else. Wrinkle powder coat sounds like the way to go next time. Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Don Hiscock Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2011 7:00 PM To: Gary Nafziger Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] wrinkle paint My experience with wrinkle-finish paint is exactly the same -- good finish but poor adhesion. Not quite fingernail loose, but not strong either. I had the instrument panel of my TR-3B dash powder coated with wrinkle black a year ago. Looks perfect, and (so far) the finish seems quite durable. Don triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From triosan at gmail.com Fri Sep 16 09:57:19 2011 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley) Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2011 08:57:19 -0700 Subject: [TR] 65 mph In-Reply-To: <1537615667.6100911.1316148465303.JavaMail.root@vznit170076> References: <1537615667.6100911.1316148465303.JavaMail.root@vznit170076> Message-ID: Hit 132 in my Tr6 racer yesterday -- shakes not too bad, wish the brakes were better. On Thu, Sep 15, 2011 at 9:47 PM, wrote: > I have a totally unmodified 72 TR6. My friend asked if he could drive it. > When he got towards 100 MPH, I almost crapped myself. Thing was shaking > like it was going to explode. > > I had muscle cars in high school, don't feel a need to go their, and all > the TR people actually drive the cars. > > Don't think I have been above 75 since. > > Craig > Vienna, VA > 72 TR6 > > > Sep 16, 2011 12:30:22 AM, sumton at sbcglobal.net wrote: > > I have a very modified TR6. but above 90 I get a little scared. this thing > is 40 years old. and open. I did 140 in a relatively new enclosed car with > crumple zones and airbags etc. but this little car . . . > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "Andrew Uprichard" > Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2011 5:15 PM > To: "'Joe DeMuth'" ; > Subject: [TR] 65 mph > > > Joe! You rarely drive faster than 65mph? I am going to take the fifth on > > this, but I was speaking to a guy at the Battle of the Brits (annual show > > for the Detroit Triumph Sportscar Club last Sunday - and well attended) > > who > > had just bought an unrestored TR3 from Canada a month previously. He had > > gotten caught in a thunderstorm and said how he did 95mph to get home > dry. > > > > My TR3 has clocked 105 by some reckless individual. I'd be interested in > > knowing of other owners: cautious cruising or spurious speeding??? And > > what happens on this chat page stays on this chat page...... > > > > Andrew Uprichard > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triosan at gmail.com > -- Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Fri Sep 16 10:50:03 2011 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2011 12:50:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] 65 mph In-Reply-To: <8CE4294E386B93F-2480-18B80@webmail-d145.sysops.aol.com> References: <1537615667.6100911.1316148465303.JavaMail.root@vznit170076> <8CE4294E386B93F-2480-18B80@webmail-d145.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: ISTR last time I really drove my TR2 in 1977, it was shaking quite violently at 70mph and calming down after 80..... I think I've had it up to 45 mph since I got it running again. I won't be going faster than that until the front end is rebuilt and a new idler arm is in place - while doing the front brakes I noticed the idler arm does a hula dance when I would turn the wheel...... hmmm do you think maybe that was it? :) (I think my angels were looking out for me) Chris From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Sep 16 10:57:09 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2011 09:57:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] 65 mph In-Reply-To: <3EF012A5-C8EB-4F46-83EF-95C8710F19C4@gmail.com> References: <1537615667.6100911.1316148465303.JavaMail.root@vznit170076> <3EF012A5-C8EB-4F46-83EF-95C8710F19C4@gmail.com> Message-ID: <1f8701cc7491$ac4ab980$0301a8c0@randall> > But then the airplane had be flight > tested to 1.5 Mach, > so it was rather boring. :-) Probably less so for the pilot that did the M1.5 test. -- Randall From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Fri Sep 16 12:29:47 2011 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2011 14:29:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] wrinkle paint In-Reply-To: References: <1316123884.12540.YahooMailNeo@web65309.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: isn't that what sharpies are for? :) From lherault at bu.edu Fri Sep 16 14:23:34 2011 From: lherault at bu.edu (Ron L'Herault) Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2011 16:23:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] speedy confessions Message-ID: <3306707D5F314C69B25FFC6B50766B57@ad.bu.edu> I know I had my then 11 year old '58 TR-3 up to 100mph once. It was probably on route 95 or maybe 495, a pretty quiet highway at the time. I just had to see if the old beast could still do it and it did. I also drove my friend's '71 E type up to 100 at least once on route 495 in Massachusetts. I don't think I've driven cars that fast since. Ron L From terryrs at comcast.net Fri Sep 16 16:37:39 2011 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2011 22:37:39 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] 65 mph In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1963263873.840440.1316212659053.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> ...Uhm...no comment. Well, all right. Drove regularly at 4500 rpm in 4th OD. Not sure what speed that makes it, but suspect it may have to do with why I only got a bit over 50,000 miles before the head gasket became a bit of a problem. It's just, I can't seem to resist passing BMW Z roadsters, Miatas, and reconditioned GTO's. Especially the muscle cars. I wave at them as we cross paths but they seldom deign to notice an LBC. But they do when they catch my tail wind! Terry Smith, '59 TR3A Nah. I just like to drive fast. From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com Fri Sep 16 16:58:12 2011 From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2011 18:58:12 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] 65 or So... Message-ID: Getting old, I guess. The TR4A will probably top 100 but what about the deer at the side of the road or other animal, or kid or errant (other) driver. I was pretty happy cruising at 75 (3,000 in OD) on the way to Jeklyll Island last year. Nice swoopy highways which the car is so good at. And did I mention 30 mph, too? George Haynes From spook01 at comcast.net Fri Sep 16 20:01:54 2011 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2011 21:01:54 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?65_mph?= Message-ID: <20110917020157.EA2BF187867@autox.team.net> You guys are killin' me! The cars do just over the ton, and some are describing encounters where they blew off cars capable of 50% higher speeds! I love my TR4, but it'll never hold a candle to my Elise in performance. Sheesh. On the Tiger site, another car - one I've had since '74, we have guys claiming they smoked Testarossa's and NSX's around the track. I made the comment that their ancient grandmother must have been in the Ferrari and I got abuse for a week! :-) BTW, did I tell you about the time my Morris Minor drilled a hot TR3 up Lookout Mountain once? No? Well, we were sittin' at the light, revvin' our engines............. ;-) Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- To: Subject: [TR] 65 mph From spook01 at comcast.net Fri Sep 16 20:02:34 2011 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2011 21:02:34 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?b?NjUgb3IgU28uLi4=?= Message-ID: <20110917020237.7353C187867@autox.team.net> Exactly, George. Good on ya. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com To: Subject: [TR] 65 or So... Date: Fri, Sep 16, 2011 17:58 Getting old, I guess. The TR4A will probably top 100 but what about the deer at the side of the road or other animal, or kid or errant (other) driver. I was pretty happy cruising at 75 (3,000 in OD) on the way to Jeklyll Island last year. Nice swoopy highways which the car is so good at. And did I mention 30 mph, too? George Haynes triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From staffel at comcast.net Sat Sep 17 00:50:10 2011 From: staffel at comcast.net (staffel at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2011 06:50:10 +0000 Subject: [TR] 65mph:Why TR better than Porsche 911 Message-ID: <220106564-1316242210-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1120758116-@b26.c11.bise6.blackberry> Well, in the 70's when the 65 TR4 was still 'relatively new', I often took long trips from Norman,OK to Albuquerque,NM and NYC. I'd set the valves per the blue TR 'race prep book', and hold the rpm on the 4500 rpm line for hours (90). So one trip, westbound toward Tucumcari, after gassing up in Amarillo, on the old rt66/I-40, I see this dot in my rear view mirror. After 30 mins it becomes a new P 911. Slowly it Passes me (maybe doing 100+). Can see 40 miles ahead on this stretch of high desert road. 20 mins later it disappears over a rise, and I 'had a feeling'. Slow up to 75. Go over the rise- the 911 stopped by a Texas trooper. That's why its better to drive a TR vs a 'Porch'! Now have the 165x15's on Minilites, making the tires 'low profile', so 3000 is 56 vs 60, but still do 75 indicated- occasionally on I-95 or I-66 when I need to keep up with traffic, but prefer the back roads 60-68 'indicated'(about 55-65)! Sherman D. Taffel Columbia. MD Capital Triumph Register TR4 40054L ((VTR says last known production surviving American (LHD) TR4 )) Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T From david.brister at wanadoo.fr Sat Sep 17 03:18:59 2011 From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister) Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2011 11:18:59 +0200 Subject: [TR] 65 mph In-Reply-To: <1963263873.840440.1316212659053.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1963263873.840440.1316212659053.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: I have reached 100mph indicated perhaps 3 or 4 times in the last 30 years, but when conditions permit I am never happier than in o/d top when I have 80 on the speedo, 70psi on the oil and 3050 on the rev counter.Max speed acceptable in Europe without attracting unwelcome attention. David Brister TR4A CTC 77785 O >Well, all right. Drove regularly at 4500 rpm in 4th OD. Not sure what >speed that makes it, but suspect it may have to do with why I only got a >bit over 50,000 miles before the head gasket became a bit of a problem. -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 7 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 634 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Professional version does not have this message From a_flying_scotsman at yahoo.com Sat Sep 17 05:47:11 2011 From: a_flying_scotsman at yahoo.com (Alex Cherington) Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2011 04:47:11 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 Door Lock Barrel In-Reply-To: References: <4E663E05.8040605@execulink.com> <05ae01cc6cb2$6ddcd7f0$499687d0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <1316260031.684.YahooMailNeo@web160318.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Hi, The door lock barrel has been getting loose and finally the whole thing came out with the key. I haven't stripped the door yet but the clip must have dropped out or corroded and has fallen inside. Is there a better way to fit the barrel??? I did this a while ago and I seem to recall it was rather frustrating. Thanks Alex From jimmuller at rcn.com Sat Sep 17 14:58:00 2011 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2011 16:58:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] 65 mph In-Reply-To: <20110917020157.EA2BF187867@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <4E74D198.9923.E7772A4@localhost> On 16 Sep 2011 at 21:01, spook01 at comcast.net wrote: > BTW, did I tell you about the time my Morris Minor drilled a > hot TR3 up Lookout Mountain once? Did I ever mention the time I drove my GT6 up Cadillac Moutain in Acadia Nat'l Park? A guy at the top wanted to talk and said he wished he had driven his TR3, that it could have made it up the mountain but his Morris Minor certainly couldn't? -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From diggle at clear.net.nz Sun Sep 18 01:56:45 2011 From: diggle at clear.net.nz (diggle at clear.net.nz) Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2011 19:56:45 +1200 Subject: [TR] Vinyl supplier Message-ID: <4e75a43d.1d4.7167.17487@clear.net.nz> After reading Danielsons TR6 site I decided that I'm mad enough to have a go at recovering my TR5 seats. I figure that at about #200 for the foam from the Moss etc what did I have to lose. If I made a mess of the foam I'd stop at that point and just buy it from Moss or whomever. So does anyone know if the vinyl with the small diamonds, thats on all out TR5 and TR250 seats, is available and from whom? Jim and the TR4 with seats in need of recovering. From auprichard at uprichard.net Sun Sep 18 05:10:02 2011 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2011 07:10:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR250 wiring advice In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <34E358AAE519401EBBD066BF98E0669F@DCH6RFC1> If any of you wonderful people would be prepared to spend a few minutes on your backs with your legs over the driver's seat, I need advice on how your cars are wired when it comes to the steering column. I don't want to bomb the list with the details of which wires go where, but if you can help, please hit reply and I'll give you the specifics. I'll supply the advil for the sore backs the following days..... Andrew Uprichard From daveg at online.no Sun Sep 18 05:50:32 2011 From: daveg at online.no (David Griffiths) Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2011 13:50:32 +0200 Subject: [TR] Fwd: Vinyl supplier References: <4e75a43d.1d4.7167.17487@clear.net.nz> Message-ID: Hi I used John Skinner in England for my tr3 and was really happy with them. They are very good with telephone enquiries and take the time to explain options. Their prices were good too. On the tr5 they at leat mention "and the diamond pattern featured in TR5 & TR6 vinyl seat covers." Their address is: http://www.triumph-trim.co.uk/ Hope it helps, Dave Begin forwarded message: > From: diggle at clear.net.nz > Date: 18 September 2011 9:56:45 GMT+02:00 > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] Vinyl supplier > Reply-To: diggle at clear.net.nz > > After reading Danielsons TR6 site I decided that I'm mad > enough to have a go at recovering my TR5 seats. > I figure that at about #200 for the foam from the Moss etc > what did I have to lose. > If I made a mess of the foam I'd stop at that point and just > buy it from Moss or whomever. > So does anyone know if the vinyl with the small diamonds, > thats on all out TR5 and TR250 seats, is available and from > whom? From lgmtr6 at yahoo.com Sun Sep 18 07:09:32 2011 From: lgmtr6 at yahoo.com (lgmtr6) Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2011 13:09:32 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR6 Door Lock Barrel In-Reply-To: <1316260031.684.YahooMailNeo@web160318.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> References: <4E663E05.8040605@execulink.com><05ae01cc6cb2$6ddcd7f0$499687d0$@rr.com><1316260031.684.YahooMailNeo@web160318.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Alex The original type barrel used a clip that slid under the barrel from inside the door, and yes, it is difficult and frustrating to fit. If you are not careful you can cause distortion to the door skin when trying to push the clip in place. Unfortunately, I know this to happen all to well. But, there is a new style that is available from Moss or TRF that uses small set screws rather than the clip. I've not used it but I think it would be the way to go if I were going to replace them. Larry Miceli Mount Dora, Fla. 58 TR3 73 Stag 74 TR6 71 XKE OTS 87 XJ6 VDP Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry -----Original Message----- From: Alex Cherington Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2011 04:47:11 To: Triumphs Reply-To: Alex Cherington Subject: [TR] TR6 Door Lock Barrel Hi, The door lock barrel has been getting loose and finally the whole thing came out with the key. I haven't stripped the door yet but the clip must have dropped out or corroded and has fallen inside. Is there a better way to fit the barrel??? I did this a while ago and I seem to recall it was rather frustrating. Thanks Alex triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/lgmtr6 at yahoo.com From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Sep 18 07:35:56 2011 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2011 09:35:56 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] 65 mph Message-ID: <163fa.40cc265b.3ba74dbc@cs.com> In a message dated 9/17/2011 6:16:54 PM Central Daylight Time, jimmuller at rcn.com writes: > Did I ever mention the time I drove my GT6 up Cadillac Moutain in > Acadia Nat'l Park? A guy at the top wanted to talk and said he > wished he had driven his TR3, that it could have made it up the > mountain but his Morris Minor certainly couldn't? > Did I tell you about the time I drove my TR6 up Pike's Peak only to see two Model T's already up there? I got pictures. Dave From rjones at wfeca.net Sun Sep 18 10:54:06 2011 From: rjones at wfeca.net (Robert Jones) Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2011 11:54:06 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 Door Lock Barrel In-Reply-To: <20110918163254.AB77B1878AC@autox.team.net> References: <4E663E05.8040605@execulink.com><05ae01cc6cb2$6ddcd7f0$499687d0$@rr.com><1316260031.684.YahooMailNeo@web160318.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> <20110918163254.AB77B1878AC@autox.team.net> Message-ID: One of the few things I have found worth buying from Vicky Brit were their TR6 door locks which use a barrel nut that threads on from the inside, thus eliminating the clip and the problem. Bob On Sep 18, 2011, at 8:09 AM, lgmtr6 wrote: > Alex > The original type barrel used a clip that slid under the barrel from inside the door, and yes, it is difficult and frustrating to fit. If you are not careful you can cause distortion to the door skin when trying to push the clip in place. Unfortunately, I know this to happen all to well. But, there is a new style that is available from Moss or TRF that uses small set screws rather than the clip. I've not used it but I think it would be the way to go if I were going to replace them. > > Larry Miceli > Mount Dora, Fla. > 58 TR3 > 73 Stag > 74 TR6 > 71 XKE OTS > 87 XJ6 VDP > Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry > > -----Original Message----- > From: Alex Cherington > Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2011 04:47:11 > To: Triumphs > Reply-To: Alex Cherington > Subject: [TR] TR6 Door Lock Barrel > > Hi, > > The door lock barrel has been getting loose and finally the whole > thing came out with the key. I haven't stripped the door yet but the clip must > have dropped out or corroded and has fallen inside. > > Is there a better way to > fit the barrel??? > > I did this a while ago and I seem to recall it was rather > frustrating. > > Thanks > > Alex > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/lgmtr6 at yahoo.com > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rjones at wfeca.net From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Sun Sep 18 11:23:35 2011 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2011 10:23:35 -0700 Subject: [TR] 65 mph In-Reply-To: <163fa.40cc265b.3ba74dbc@cs.com> References: <163fa.40cc265b.3ba74dbc@cs.com> Message-ID: On Sun, Sep 18, 2011 at 6:35 AM, wrote: > Did I tell you about the time I drove my TR6 up Pike's Peak only to see two > Model T's already up there? > I went up Pikes Peak in a '53 Plymouth and the place was loaded with classic cars (no TRs though). http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/53ply1.jpg Geo From thenicholls at verizon.net Sun Sep 18 12:33:21 2011 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2011 13:33:21 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] 1972 Triumph TR6 Clutch Master cylinder leaking - Followup installation question Message-ID: <101202067.6252211.1316370801461.JavaMail.root@vznit170078> To the list, Installed the new clutch master cylinder purchased from a local British car shop. They will only use TRW. My friend (who owns a Jag) came over after I had it installed to help me bleed. That got taken care of, no problem. However, when I went to bring the car off of the ramps, I could not even get it into gear. So, we did the usual, we bled again and did exactly how the book describes it, we pumped and shut the bleeder when the pedal was depressed. Still, could not get it into gear, My Jag friend said there must be an adjustment, I advised him that originally there was not. However, you have the three holes where the lever can be placed to have the slave move the arm for the gear box. It was in the middle as is specified. So, we tried the bottom hole, same thing. We then placed it in the top hole, in gear no problem, took a test drive, no problem. Since all the clutch master cylinders are the same except for the bore being .7 or .75, could anyone explain why this would happen? And, most importantly, is there any issue with leaving the slave attached to the top hole? Just for reference, when I bought the TR from the original owner 6 years ago, when it was inspected at the local British car shop, they had stated that some work had been done on the fork and that the clutch would need to be replaced at some point. Well, the original is still in there with no issues. Any insight on this would be appreciated. Craig 1972 Triumph TR6 Vienna, VA From: Sent: Monday, September 12, 2011 6:54 PM To: Subject: [TR] 1972 Triumph TR6 Clutch Master cylinder leaking > Already been down this road once. > > Replaced clutch master with a Girling purchased from TRF 6/22/07. Well, I > guess I should say I got 4 good years. It is now leaking on the inside of > the car. I have a really nice paper towel wrapped around it. > > Does anyone on the list have any recommendations for a clutch master brand > that will actually last? I read lots of bad stuff in the archive, and the > comment from the British car shop that replaced it before said "anything > in a white box is trouble". > > Suggestions? > > Thanks, > > Craig > Vienna, VA > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/sumton at sbcglobal.net From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Sep 18 15:07:55 2011 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2011 17:07:55 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] 65 mph Message-ID: <49571.24a4ad90.3ba7b7ab@cs.com> In a message dated 9/18/2011 3:20:49 PM Central Daylight Time, ahwahneetr at gmail.com writes: > I went up Pikes Peak in a '53 Plymouth and the place was loaded with > classic > cars (no TRs though). > > http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/53ply1.jpg > Well, yeah but, back then Pike's Peak wasn't quite so high. Did you have a doughnut? Dave From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Sun Sep 18 16:28:57 2011 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2011 15:28:57 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] 65 mph In-Reply-To: References: <3656CEF4-7033-4695-BAFB-F811DA1184E1@ties2.net> Message-ID: <1316384937.71417.YahooMailNeo@web120211.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> after break in period 2 years ago, i was tempted to test the TR3 on the 15 freeway south of lake Elsinore. pushed it to 100 and then backed off. since then have been trashing the car and even done a little spirited driving with a couple of guys on this list. ill let them identify themselves Frank From: Andrew Uprichard To: 'Joe DeMuth' ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2011 3:15 PM Subject: [TR] 65 mph Joe! You rarely drive faster than 65mph? I am going to take the fifth on this, but I was speaking to a guy at the Battle of the Brits (annual show for the Detroit Triumph Sportscar Club last Sunday - and well attended) who had just bought an unrestored TR3 from Canada a month previously. He had gotten caught in a thunderstorm and said how he did 95mph to get home dry. My TR3 has clocked 105 by some reckless individual. I'd be interested in knowing of other owners: cautious cruising or spurious speeding??? And what happens on this chat page stays on this chat page...... Andrew Uprichard Never broke the speed limit -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe DeMuth Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2011 3:46 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Oil in the radiator OK gang, I need help. The TR3A is using water and it appears there is oily water in the radiator. It does not look like there is water in the oil. I did a compression check and have 150+ lbs/sq-in on all cylinders. I am assuming a head gasket. Is there anything else that could explain the symptoms, and is there any other testing I should do before pulling the head? The gasket that is in the car currently is about 6 years old. I rarely, if ever, drive the car faster than 65 mph. triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Sun Sep 18 16:32:32 2011 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2011 15:32:32 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] wrinkle paint In-Reply-To: <1316123884.12540.YahooMailNeo@web65309.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> References: <1316123884.12540.YahooMailNeo@web65309.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1316385152.62790.YahooMailNeo@web120211.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> if its the moss wrinkle paint, i found i needed to leave it about 3 weeks to dry hard Frank From: Gary Nafziger To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2011 2:58 PM Subject: [TR] wrinkle paint Before using wrinkle paint on my dash piece (tr-3) I used some on a scrap piece of steel just to see how it worked. I applied it and let it set the recommended 12 hours to dry. I was very happy with the result...........looked very nice but also found that it scratched very easily with just finger nail scraping. I'm hoping I simply need to let it dry longer to cure completely. I did the work in my basement which might have been 60 some degrees so the temp might be a consideration. I went ahead and sprayed the dash piece this afternoon and will let it set all weekend hopefully to dry nice and hard by monday. Anyone else have any experience with this paint? gary n. triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Sep 18 16:50:11 2011 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2011 18:50:11 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] 1972 Triumph TR6 Clutch Master cylinder leaking - Followup installat... Message-ID: <49375.5c4e326e.3ba7cfa3@cs.com> In a message dated 9/18/2011 5:24:21 PM Central Daylight Time, thenicholls at verizon.net writes: > To the list, > > Installed the new clutch master cylinder purchased from a local British > car shop. They will only use TRW. > > My friend (who owns a Jag) came over after I had it installed to help me > bleed. That got taken care of, no problem. > > However, when I went to bring the car off of the ramps, I could not even > get it into gear. So, we did the usual, we bled again and did exactly how > the book describes it, we pumped and shut the bleeder when the pedal was > depressed. > > Still, could not get it into gear, My Jag friend said there must be an > adjustment, I advised him that originally there was not. However, you have > the three holes where the lever can be placed to have the slave move the arm > for the gear box. It was in the middle as is specified. > > So, we tried the bottom hole, same thing. We then placed it in the top > hole, in gear no problem, took a test drive, no problem. > > Since all the clutch master cylinders are the same except for the bore > being .7 or .75, could anyone explain why this would happen? And, most > importantly, is there any issue with leaving the slave attached to the top hole? > > Just for reference, when I bought the TR from the original owner 6 years > ago, when it was inspected at the local British car shop, they had stated > that some work had been done on the fork and that the clutch would need to be > replaced at some point. Well, the original is still in there with no > issues. > > Any insight on this would be appreciated. > If you replaced a .75 inch diameter master with a .7 inch cylinder then you've lost some motion at the slave end. Try using the hole closest to the pivot and see if that helps. Dave From auprichard at uprichard.net Sun Sep 18 16:59:15 2011 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2011 18:59:15 -0400 Subject: [TR] 65 mph In-Reply-To: <1316384937.71417.YahooMailNeo@web120211.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <3656CEF4-7033-4695-BAFB-F811DA1184E1@ties2.net> <1316384937.71417.YahooMailNeo@web120211.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2022412D5F484912A6B6297A84A6AD56@DCH6RFC1> This has been an enjoyable thread. I guess I have two driving styles: with and without the lovely wife. When I first restored the TR3, Maggie was scared at being in a 50 year-old car and asked if we could stay below 60 for her first trip. I, of course, agreed. I set the speedometer at sixty and hit the first tight corner. The rush was instantly annulled by "the look". I did make up for it later, however: on the way home a truck pulled alongside us on the Mass turnpike. "She's a beauty !" the guy shouted. "I know," I said, "and we've been married a long time!" I am still milking that moment of brilliance..... Andrew Uprichard Wedding anniversary 9-19 _____ From: Frank Fisher [mailto:yellowtr3 at yahoo.com] Sent: Sunday, September 18, 2011 6:29 PM To: Andrew Uprichard Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] 65 mph after break in period 2 years ago, i was tempted to test the TR3 on the 15 freeway south of lake Elsinore. pushed it to 100 and then backed off. since then have been trashing the car and even done a little spirited driving with a couple of guys on this list. ill let them identify themselves Frank From: Andrew Uprichard To: 'Joe DeMuth' ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2011 3:15 PM Subject: [TR] 65 mph Joe! You rarely drive faster than 65mph? I am going to take the fifth on this, but I was speaking to a guy at the Battle of the Brits (annual show for the Detroit Triumph Sportscar Club last Sunday - and well attended) who had just bought an unrestored TR3 from Canada a month previously. He had gotten caught in a thunderstorm and said how he did 95mph to get home dry. My TR3 has clocked 105 by some reckless individual. I'd be interested in knowing of other owners: cautious cruising or spurious speeding??? And what happens on this chat page stays on this chat page...... Andrew Uprichard Never broke the speed limit -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe DeMuth Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2011 3:46 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Oil in the radiator OK gang, I need help. The TR3A is using water and it appears there is oily water in the radiator. It does not look like there is water in the oil. I did a compression check and have 150+ lbs/sq-in on all cylinders. I am assuming a head gasket. Is there anything else that could explain the symptoms, and is there any other testing I should do before pulling the head? The gasket that is in the car currently is about 6 years old. I rarely, if ever, drive the car faster than 65 mph. triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From auprichard at uprichard.net Sun Sep 18 17:02:01 2011 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2011 19:02:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] 1972 Triumph TR6 Clutch Master cylinder leaking - Followup installation question In-Reply-To: <101202067.6252211.1316370801461.JavaMail.root@vznit170078> References: <101202067.6252211.1316370801461.JavaMail.root@vznit170078> Message-ID: I guess the purely pragmatic part of me says, since nothing else worked and it seems to have cured the problem, I'd go with it (especially since you have reason to believe "work had been done on the fork"). Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of thenicholls at verizon.net Sent: Sunday, September 18, 2011 2:33 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] 1972 Triumph TR6 Clutch Master cylinder leaking - Followup installation question To the list, Installed the new clutch master cylinder purchased from a local British car shop. They will only use TRW. My friend (who owns a Jag) came over after I had it installed to help me bleed. That got taken care of, no problem. However, when I went to bring the car off of the ramps, I could not even get it into gear. So, we did the usual, we bled again and did exactly how the book describes it, we pumped and shut the bleeder when the pedal was depressed. Still, could not get it into gear, My Jag friend said there must be an adjustment, I advised him that originally there was not. However, you have the three holes where the lever can be placed to have the slave move the arm for the gear box. It was in the middle as is specified. So, we tried the bottom hole, same thing. We then placed it in the top hole, in gear no problem, took a test drive, no problem. Since all the clutch master cylinders are the same except for the bore being .7 or .75, could anyone explain why this would happen? And, most importantly, is there any issue with leaving the slave attached to the top hole? Just for reference, when I bought the TR from the original owner 6 years ago, when it was inspected at the local British car shop, they had stated that some work had been done on the fork and that the clutch would need to be replaced at some point. Well, the original is still in there with no issues. Any insight on this would be appreciated. Craig 1972 Triumph TR6 Vienna, VA From: Sent: Monday, September 12, 2011 6:54 PM To: Subject: [TR] 1972 Triumph TR6 Clutch Master cylinder leaking > Already been down this road once. > > Replaced clutch master with a Girling purchased from TRF 6/22/07. Well, I > guess I should say I got 4 good years. It is now leaking on the inside of > the car. I have a really nice paper towel wrapped around it. > > Does anyone on the list have any recommendations for a clutch master brand > that will actually last? I read lots of bad stuff in the archive, and the > comment from the British car shop that replaced it before said "anything > in a white box is trouble". > > Suggestions? > > Thanks, > > Craig > Vienna, VA > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/sumton at sbcglobal.net triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Sun Sep 18 17:09:47 2011 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2011 16:09:47 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] 65 mph In-Reply-To: <2022412D5F484912A6B6297A84A6AD56@DCH6RFC1> References: <3656CEF4-7033-4695-BAFB-F811DA1184E1@ties2.net> <1316384937.71417.YahooMailNeo@web120211.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <2022412D5F484912A6B6297A84A6AD56@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: <1316387387.23144.YahooMailNeo@web120220.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Andrew i too have the 2 driving style. my waif of 33 years met me when i was a hot rod freak and has been able to put up with a lot of my driving. and learned to be no sluch either. but when i really let the carbs open, i think its only fair to scare just myself B From: Andrew Uprichard To: 'Frank Fisher' ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, September 18, 2011 3:59 PM Subject: RE: [TR] 65 mph This has been an enjoyable thread. B I guess I have two driving styles:B with and without the lovely wife. B When I first restored the TR3, Maggie was scared at being in a 50 year-old car and asked if we could stay below 60 for her first trip. B I, of course, agreed.B I set the speedometer at sixty and hit the first tight corner. B The rush was instantly annulled by bthe lookb. B I did make up for it later, however:B on the way home a truck pulled alongside us on the Mass turnpike. B bShebs a beauty !b the guy shouted.B bI know,b I said, band webve been married a long time!b B I am still milking that moment of brillianceb&b&b&b&b& B Andrew Uprichard Wedding anniversary 9-19 B From:Frank Fisher [mailto:yellowtr3 at yahoo.com] Sent: Sunday, September 18, 2011 6:29 PM To: Andrew Uprichard Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] 65 mph B after break in period 2 years ago, i was tempted to test the TR3 on the 15 freeway south of lake Elsinore . pushed it to 100 and then backed off.since then have been trashing the car and even done a little spirited driving with a couple of guys on this list. ill let them identify themselvesFrank B From:Andrew Uprichard To: 'Joe DeMuth' ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2011 3:15 PM Subject: [TR] 65 mph Joe!B You rarely drive faster than 65mph?B I am going to take the fifth on this, but I was speaking to a guy at the Battle of the Brits (annual show for the Detroit Triumph Sportscar Club last Sunday - and well attended) who had just bought an unrestored TR3 from Canada a month previously.B He had gotten caught in a thunderstorm and said how he did 95mph to get home dry. My TR3 has clocked 105 by some reckless individual.B I'd be interested in knowing of other owners:B cautious cruising or spurious speeding???B And what happens on this chat page stays on this chat page...... Andrew Uprichard Never broke the speed limit -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe DeMuth Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2011 3:46 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Oil in the radiator OK gang, I need help. The TR3A is using water and it appears there isB oily water in the radiator. It does not look like there is water inB the oil. I did a compression check and have 150+ lbs/sq-in on allB cylinders. I am assuming a head gasket. Is there anything else thatB could explain the symptoms, and is there any other testing I should doB before pulling the head? The gasket that is in the car currently isB about 6 years old. I rarely, if ever, drive the car faster than 65 mph. triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Sep 18 18:07:08 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2011 17:07:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] 1972 Triumph TR6 Clutch Master cylinder leaking - Followup installation question In-Reply-To: <101202067.6252211.1316370801461.JavaMail.root@vznit170078> References: <101202067.6252211.1316370801461.JavaMail.root@vznit170078> Message-ID: <00bd01cc7660$12ccc750$0301a8c0@randall> > Since all the clutch master cylinders are the same except for > the bore being .7 or .75, could anyone explain why this would > happen? And, most importantly, is there any issue with > leaving the slave attached to the top hole? Going to the top hole gives you a bit more travel, at the expense of higher pedal effort. Sounds like it was just enough extra to get you what you needed. It's my believe that having it in the top hole will accelerate wear of the slave cylinder, because having the pushrod at an angle puts side force on the piston. But I don't know how much worse it would be, perhaps not enough to worry about. The Stag had a similar problem, which I solved (temporarily) by reaming the holes and installing an over size pin in the pivot between the pedal and the MC pushrod. The original holes were worn oblong, so there wasn't enough travel even with a new clevis pin. Using one of the braided SS lines from MC to slave would help, too. The Teflon inner tube expands less under pressure than the original line. -- Randall From auprichard at uprichard.net Sun Sep 18 18:48:30 2011 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2011 20:48:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] wrinkle paint In-Reply-To: <1316385152.62790.YahooMailNeo@web120211.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1316123884.12540.YahooMailNeo@web65309.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> <1316385152.62790.YahooMailNeo@web120211.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2B7389F6B0324BD58B1F76919C177911@DCH6RFC1> I was always taught to put the piece in the oven after painting it -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Fisher Sent: Sunday, September 18, 2011 6:33 PM To: Gary Nafziger Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] wrinkle paint if its the moss wrinkle paint, i found i needed to leave it about 3 weeks to dry hard Frank From: Gary Nafziger To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2011 2:58 PM Subject: [TR] wrinkle paint Before using wrinkle paint on my dash piece (tr-3) I used some on a scrap piece of steel just to see how it worked. I applied it and let it set the recommended 12 hours to dry. I was very happy with the result...........looked very nice but also found that it scratched very easily with just finger nail scraping. I'm hoping I simply need to let it dry longer to cure completely. I did the work in my basement which might have been 60 some degrees so the temp might be a consideration. I went ahead and sprayed the dash piece this afternoon and will let it set all weekend hopefully to dry nice and hard by monday. Anyone else have any experience with this paint? gary n. triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From pfullam at nycap.rr.com Sun Sep 18 22:02:15 2011 From: pfullam at nycap.rr.com (Peter) Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2011 00:02:15 -0400 Subject: [TR] 65 mph In-Reply-To: References: <3656CEF4-7033-4695-BAFB-F811DA1184E1@ties2.net> Message-ID: <001f01cc7680$eb51f490$c1f5ddb0$@rr.com> On the way to the VTR meeting at Valley Forge, we got onto I-276 for the last stretch to the hotel. It was getting to be rush hour, so I got into the fast lane, with a VW GTI in front and a cable TV van behind us. After a few minutes I noticed the Armco was going by pretty fast, so I checked the speedo: 100 mph, no shake, no vibrations, no drama. Then our exit came up and we had to bail off. I still can't believe a cable van with two ladders on the roof would go that fast, but by then I wasn't checking the mirror. 105 and change comes up once in a while, but even the interstates are too crowded for much of that anymore. But on the same interstate, you have to go 80 to keep your place in line in rush hour. Pete Fullam CT19207LO -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2011 6:16 PM To: 'Joe DeMuth'; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] 65 mph Joe! You rarely drive faster than 65mph? I am going to take the fifth on this, but I was speaking to a guy at the Battle of the Brits (annual show for the Detroit Triumph Sportscar Club last Sunday - and well attended) who had just bought an unrestored TR3 from Canada a month previously. He had gotten caught in a thunderstorm and said how he did 95mph to get home dry. My TR3 has clocked 105 by some reckless individual. I'd be interested in knowing of other owners: cautious cruising or spurious speeding??? And what happens on this chat page stays on this chat page...... Andrew Uprichard Never broke the speed limit -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe DeMuth Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2011 3:46 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Oil in the radiator OK gang, I need help. The TR3A is using water and it appears there is oily water in the radiator. It does not look like there is water in the oil. I did a compression check and have 150+ lbs/sq-in on all cylinders. I am assuming a head gasket. Is there anything else that could explain the symptoms, and is there any other testing I should do before pulling the head? The gasket that is in the car currently is about 6 years old. I rarely, if ever, drive the car faster than 65 mph. From pebarnes71 at gmail.com Mon Sep 19 05:27:58 2011 From: pebarnes71 at gmail.com (Philip Barnes) Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2011 07:27:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] car show, sort of Message-ID: I'm sure some of you have seen the t-shirt "I drove my British car to the trailer show". (An obvious dig at trailer queens.) Well, this weekend we went to a trailer show. Sponsored by the Tin Can Tourists ( www.tincantourists.com), it was a display of vintage travel trailers held at Sampson State Park on the east side of Seneca Lake in the Finger Lakes of New York. It was just like a car show. There were "trailer queens" in the form of perfect Airstreams from the '50s, "drivers" that someone found in a salvage yard and cleaned up enough to be liveable, and "rolling restorations"; an Airstream that a gal towed in that had been gutted. She was sleeping on the floor in a sleeping bag. Probably 30 trailers or so, all brought in by enthusiasts, some of whom owned more than one trailer. Why does this sound familiar? Some folks went as far as to tow their trailer with a vintage car or truck. Too bad I couldn't tow a trailer with the '6. But a '59 Chevy wagon with cleaned up Shasta? Hmmm... --Phil Barnes --Middlebury Center, PA --'71 TR6 since 1977 From geomurphy at windstream.net Mon Sep 19 05:34:40 2011 From: geomurphy at windstream.net (George) Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2011 07:34:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] =?iso-8859-1?q?TR3_Mad_Electrical_=3F?= Message-ID: <000001cc76c0$20ab08e0$62011aa0$@net> Has anyone used Mad Electrical for their alternator conversion? After two weeks of calling at random times I finally got someone to answer the phone. I placed an order two weeks ago and have not heard from them again. There has not been anything charged to my credit card as of today. I have read many good things about the products and information they sell but I am concerned that I may or may not receive my order. In the mean time my TR is sitting in the garage waiting patiently for its new parts. I have tried for the last four days calling at random times and no one answers the phone. Anyone have experience with Mad Electrical ? Does anyone know of another source for an alternator conversion Kit? Thanks George M 60 TR3a _______________________________________ No infections found in this outgoing message Scanned by iolo System Shield. http://www.iolo.com From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Sep 19 06:05:46 2011 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2011 08:05:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] Vinyl supplier In-Reply-To: <4e75a43d.1d4.7167.17487@clear.net.nz> References: <4e75a43d.1d4.7167.17487@clear.net.nz> Message-ID: <753E3A871B7C408DA2CB873FDAD86057@BobPC> If you plan on sewing new covers for the seat, you are indeed a "mad man" LOL.... I'm not familiar with the TR5 seat style but the VB Guide is very helpful for all aspects of the interior (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/Restoration_VB_Guide.htm) As for the vinyl itself, Moss told me that they will sell it by the yard. You can't order it online, only over the phone and they didn't give me a part number to use. You'll probably want to question them on the style anyway. Bob Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 1975 TR6 with: Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff & CVJs -----Original Message----- From: diggle at clear.net.nz Sent: Sunday, September 18, 2011 3:56 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Vinyl supplier After reading Danielsons TR6 site I decided that I'm mad enough to have a go at recovering my TR5 seats. I figure that at about #200 for the foam from the Moss etc what did I have to lose. If I made a mess of the foam I'd stop at that point and just buy it from Moss or whomever. So does anyone know if the vinyl with the small diamonds, thats on all out TR5 and TR250 seats, is available and from whom? Jim and the TR4 with seats in need of recovering. From spook01 at comcast.net Mon Sep 19 07:10:17 2011 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2011 08:10:17 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?65_mph?= Message-ID: <20110919131021.541E0187649@autox.team.net> Hi guys, On the subject...unless your car is in very good shape, a car a half century of age should be somewhat carefully driven. TR6's they made a zillion, 4's less, and TR3's are getting thin on the ground. And, this leads me to my point: having stewardship of one of these iconic classics means some care in operation if not for the car, for your body. If you collide with a modern car, no matter a small one, the TR will lose. Design and physics will kill you and it. Just a thought....I return you now to our regularly scheduled program. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Peter" To: "'Andrew Uprichard'" , "'Joe DeMuth'" , Subject: [TR] 65 mph Date: Sun, Sep 18, 2011 23:02 On the way to the VTR meeting at Valley Forge, we got onto I-276 for the last stretch to the hotel. It was getting to be rush hour, so I got into the fast lane, with a VW GTI in front and a cable TV van behind us. After a few minutes I noticed the Armco was going by pretty fast, so I checked the speedo: 100 mph, no shake, no vibrations, no drama. Then our exit came up and we had to bail off. I still can't believe a cable van with two ladders on the roof would go that fast, but by then I wasn't checking the mirror. 105 and change comes up once in a while, but even the interstates are too crowded for much of that anymore. But on the same interstate, you have to go 80 to keep your place in line in rush hour. Pete Fullam CT19207LO -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2011 6:16 PM To: 'Joe DeMuth'; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] 65 mph Joe! You rarely drive faster than 65mph? I am going to take the fifth on this, but I was speaking to a guy at the Battle of the Brits (annual show for the Detroit Triumph Sportscar Club last Sunday - and well attended) who had just bought an unrestored TR3 from Canada a month previously. He had gotten caught in a thunderstorm and said how he did 95mph to get home dry. My TR3 has clocked 105 by some reckless individual. I'd be interested in knowing of other owners: cautious cruising or spurious speeding??? And what happens on this chat page stays on this chat page...... Andrew Uprichard Never broke the speed limit -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe DeMuth Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2011 3:46 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Oil in the radiator OK gang, I need help. The TR3A is using water and it appears there is oily water in the radiator. It does not look like there is water in the oil. I did a compression check and have 150+ lbs/sq-in on all cylinders. I am assuming a head gasket. Is there anything else that could explain the symptoms, and is there any other testing I should do before pulling the head? The gasket that is in the car currently is about 6 years old. I rarely, if ever, drive the car faster than 65 mph. triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From trguy at cfl.rr.com Mon Sep 19 07:48:52 2011 From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen) Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2011 09:48:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] Spitfire Fiberglass Racing Rear Leaf Spring Message-ID: <00aa01cc76d2$de233200$9a699600$@rr.com> I have a new spitfire fiberglass racing rear leaf spring with three different sized aluminum spacing blocks. Anyone know what these are worth or if you are interested, please contact me offline. Thanks. Jim Henningsen Maitland, FL 62 TR4 75 TR6 From mgodley at tiac.net Mon Sep 19 08:03:35 2011 From: mgodley at tiac.net (Michael Godley) Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2011 10:03:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Master Cylinder In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: "Does anyone on the list have any recommendations for a clutch master cylinder brand that will actually last? I read lots of bad stuff in the archive, and the comment from the British car shop that replaced it before said "anything in a white box is trouble". Suggestions?" Send the original to White Post Restorations (or another provider) and have it re-sleeved and re built....or just re-sleeved and then rebuild yourself. I had every cylinder in the car re-sleeved, then rebuilt them myself with kits from TRF. This was more than 10 years ago and no leaks to date in brakes or clutch systems. Michael Godley 65 TR4A From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Mon Sep 19 09:04:29 2011 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2011 08:04:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] wrinkle paint In-Reply-To: <2B7389F6B0324BD58B1F76919C177911@DCH6RFC1> References: <1316123884.12540.YahooMailNeo@web65309.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> <1316385152.62790.YahooMailNeo@web120211.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <2B7389F6B0324BD58B1F76919C177911@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: On Sun, Sep 18, 2011 at 5:48 PM, Andrew Uprichard wrote: > I was always taught to put the piece in the oven after painting it... > ...and I used a heat gun. Geo From trglory at verizon.net Mon Sep 19 09:16:36 2011 From: trglory at verizon.net (Joseph Laurito) Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2011 11:16:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Mad Electrical ? In-Reply-To: <000001cc76c0$20ab08e0$62011aa0$@net> References: <000001cc76c0$20ab08e0$62011aa0$@net> Message-ID: <003401cc76df$203376d0$609a6470$@net> I got the alternator conversion for my TR3A from British Wiring. Find them at www.britishwiring.com They don't list them in the catalog, but give them a call and tell them what you need. They have other interesting things not in the catalog like reproductions of the TR3 center console for a radio. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of George Sent: Monday, September 19, 2011 7:35 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR3 Mad Electrical ? Has anyone used Mad Electrical for their alternator conversion? After two weeks of calling at random times I finally got someone to answer the phone. I placed an order two weeks ago and have not heard from them again. There has not been anything charged to my credit card as of today. I have read many good things about the products and information they sell but I am concerned that I may or may not receive my order. In the mean time my TR is sitting in the garage waiting patiently for its new parts. I have tried for the last four days calling at random times and no one answers the phone. Anyone have experience with Mad Electrical ? Does anyone know of another source for an alternator conversion Kit? Thanks George M 60 TR3a _______________________________________ No infections found in this outgoing message Scanned by iolo System Shield. http://www.iolo.com triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trglory at verizon.net From thenicholls at verizon.net Mon Sep 19 11:04:38 2011 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2011 12:04:38 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 Master Cylinder Message-ID: <1127426566.6257706.1316451879044.JavaMail.root@vznit170076> Just be aware that the going rate today for a rebuild from them is $245. Craig 1972 Triumph TR6 Sep 19, 2011 12:43:28 PM, mgodley at tiac.net wrote: "Does anyone on the list have any recommendations for a clutch master cylinder brand that will actually last? I read lots of bad stuff in the archive, and the comment from the British car shop that replaced it before said "anything in a white box is trouble". Suggestions?" Send the original to White Post Restorations (or another provider) and have it re-sleeved and re built....or just re-sleeved and then rebuild yourself. I had every cylinder in the car re-sleeved, then rebuilt them myself with kits from TRF. This was more than 10 years ago and no leaks to date in brakes or clutch systems. Michael Godley 65 TR4A triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net From guy at genfiniti.com Mon Sep 19 11:05:50 2011 From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins) Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2011 12:05:50 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4A - Update and Heart-Felt Thanks Message-ID: All, Outside of installing sun visors (I NEED a center mount) and finding some outside door seals that allow me to fully close the doors, the car is restored!! What started January 2004 is now completed. I cannot believe the amount of energy, time and money it took to get it all done correctly. But in the end, it was worth it, because of the satisfaction I feel from accomplishing a goal most people won't even attempt. If I can do a full-on, frame-off restoration of a vintage British car, anyone can. This morning a flat-bed picked it up to take it to a very experienced and reputable British car shop near Fort Worth. I am having them do the setup for driving, as well as a thorough sanity/safety check. Because they are more experienced hands, and work on these cars all the time, I have asked them to: Setup the suspension Setup the steering Adjust the brakes and hand-brake Make sure all fluids and lube look good Tune-up the engine and carbs Get me a compression check on all four cylinders as a baseline Test drive Inspect everything for safety With any luck it will be done by week's end, and I can drive it for the first time since 1988, when I was only 16. Finally, thank you to everyone on the list. Without the eager and good-humored participation from this community, I do not think it would have gone as well. Now that I have developed some expertise in the IRS TR4A, I hope to contribute as my own car moves from the restoration phase, to the hobby phase. Cheers, Guy D. Huggins 1965 Triumph TR4A CTC 63569LO Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Sep 19 14:33:46 2011 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2011 16:33:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Master Cylinder In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <43C0CC136F5C4DAE819E8CD758A5D73C@BobPC> Apple Hydraulics, Sierra Specialty (http://www.brakecylinder.com/index.htm) and White Post (http://www.whitepost.com/brake.html) will all install sleeves, usually brass, and rebuild them. When either of mine fails that's the plan....... Bob Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 1975 TR6 with: Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff & CVJs -----Original Message----- From: Michael Godley Sent: Monday, September 19, 2011 10:03 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR6 Master Cylinder "Does anyone on the list have any recommendations for a clutch master cylinder brand that will actually last? I read lots of bad stuff in the archive, and the comment from the British car shop that replaced it before said "anything in a white box is trouble". Suggestions?" Send the original to White Post Restorations (or another provider) and have it re-sleeved and re built....or just re-sleeved and then rebuild yourself. I had every cylinder in the car re-sleeved, then rebuilt them myself with kits from TRF. This was more than 10 years ago and no leaks to date in brakes or clutch systems. Michael Godley 65 TR4A triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From darrellw at ipns.com Mon Sep 19 15:53:22 2011 From: darrellw at ipns.com (Darrell Walker) Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2011 14:53:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4A - Update and Heart-Felt Thanks In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C98CFEB-4830-43D0-92CE-F377118A4404@ipns.com> Hi Guy, Congrats! Great to hear about another one back on the road! -Darrell -- Darrell Walker 66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L 81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206 Vancouver, WA, USA From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Sep 19 19:08:06 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2011 18:08:06 -0700 Subject: [TR] 65 mph In-Reply-To: References: <3656CEF4-7033-4695-BAFB-F811DA1184E1@ties2.net> <01b701cc7405$cd033620$6709a260$@rr.com> Message-ID: <068001cc7731$c2538ca0$46faa5e0$@rr.com> > Assuming your 205/55x15 tires are the same 23.9" in diameter that I > found on Tire Rack's website, and a 22% reduction in overdrive, 122 > mph. Not quite, as the 23.9" figure is the measured diameter but the tires deflect where they touch the ground. To get a more accurate speed, you need to use the "turns per mile" figure (which is around 870 for those tires), so only about 112 mph. As far as safety, yes there is risk in driving an old car at any speed. But honestly, I feel safer at 110mph on a deserted desert road, than at 55 mph in normal traffic. There are just too many inattentive drivers out there. Just this morning, I had a Camaro try to run over me; apparently the driver had forgotten that s/he had turned the wheel when changing lanes at the stop light, and continued to turn right after the light went green. Fortunately I was able to get out of the way, but it was a matter of inches. -- Randall From spook01 at comcast.net Mon Sep 19 22:08:49 2011 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2011 23:08:49 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?65_mph?= Message-ID: <20110920040855.AD26A187659@autox.team.net> I think one hundred on a perfectly straight, billiard table smooth, deserted road is far more safe than doing 55 on the van wyck during rush hour. Most roads are between these extremes, however. But as a believer in libertarian principles, its everyone's right to create self risk as long as you don't endanger anyone else without their acquiescence. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Randall" To: Cc: Subject: [TR] 65 mph Date: Mon, Sep 19, 2011 20:08 > Assuming your 205/55x15 tires are the same 23.9" in diameter that I > found on Tire Rack's website, and a 22% reduction in overdrive, 122 > mph. Not quite, as the 23.9" figure is the measured diameter but the tires deflect where they touch the ground. To get a more accurate speed, you need to use the "turns per mile" figure (which is around 870 for those tires), so only about 112 mph. As far as safety, yes there is risk in driving an old car at any speed. But honestly, I feel safer at 110mph on a deserted desert road, than at 55 mph in normal traffic. There are just too many inattentive drivers out there. Just this morning, I had a Camaro try to run over me; apparently the driver had forgotten that s/he had turned the wheel when changing lanes at the stop light, and continued to turn right after the light went green. Fortunately I was able to get out of the way, but it was a matter of inches. -- Randall triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 20 08:15:47 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2011 07:15:47 -0700 Subject: [TR] 65 mph In-Reply-To: <20110920040855.AD26A187659@autox.team.net> References: <20110920040855.AD26A187659@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <02f501cc779f$cb900320$0301a8c0@randall> > I think one hundred on a perfectly straight, billiard table > smooth, deserted road is far more safe than doing 55 on the > van wyck during rush hour. I'd never heard of the Van Wyck, so I looked it up on Google. Looks to be fairly comparable to CA-91, which is what I drive to work almost every day in my TR3. And is where my TR3A got totaled, while I was stopped behind traffic. -- Randall From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Tue Sep 20 10:02:24 2011 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2011 09:02:24 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] lucas distributors Message-ID: <1316534544.16398.YahooMailNeo@web120211.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> a friends son is a very talented young man and has been manufacturing some very high quality performance parts for small market auto's. Mitsubishi, Volvo, diesel and mini. he owns a mid 60's mini. one of the things he developed was a kick ass distributor upgrade for older Volvo. he took modern Mitsubishi technology and with some very nice accurate machine work made a complete distributor that works on the older Volvo. it somehow works with computer controlled device that he builds electrical boards for. the mini community now has him working on a replacement system for them. as we talked it looked like the mini lucas distributor was the same basic body casting as my TR3. obviously the advance curves are very different, and that is dealt with in his electrical board and his PC. what i have been searching the net for is information that will identify the body type and its insertion dimensions into the engine block or adapter. if the TR3 body is the same as the mini body and the distance from the neck down to the base is the same, he will not have to keep measuring and reverse engineering the parts. same for the TR6/spit etc. does any one know where there is easy access to this information on line? i can find all of the advance curve info, but nothing on physical dimensions. thanks Frank From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Tue Sep 20 11:21:17 2011 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net) Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2011 13:21:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] Stromberg CD175 diaphrams swap for CD150s Message-ID: <380-220119220172117980@M2W109.mail2web.com> I just finished a rebuild on my Stromberg CD150s and noticed that the rebuild kit has diaphragms for a CD175. If anybody bought the same kit but for their 175s and has the 150 diaphragms, how about a trade? Cant imagine that shipping would cost all that much, and I hate to see good parts go to waste- Im located in La Mesa, CA a suburb of San Diego - -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web.com  What can On Demand Business Solutions do for you? http://link.mail2web.com/Business/SharePoint From spook01 at comcast.net Tue Sep 20 13:18:45 2011 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2011 14:18:45 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?65_mph?= Message-ID: <20110920191850.01C00187909@autox.team.net> The van wyck is traveled at high speed by nyc taxi drivers. It's old, and people in nyc don't drive much...its the only place I've ever been where the cab driver swerved past a BMW driver trying to change a tire, and knocked the bimmer door off the car! As we blasted back across two lanes, he turned and grinned... "he won't do that again!" Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Randall" To: Cc: Subject: [TR] 65 mph Date: Tue, Sep 20, 2011 09:15 > I think one hundred on a perfectly straight, billiard table > smooth, deserted road is far more safe than doing 55 on the > van wyck during rush hour. I'd never heard of the Van Wyck, so I looked it up on Google. Looks to be fairly comparable to CA-91, which is what I drive to work almost every day in my TR3. And is where my TR3A got totaled, while I was stopped behind traffic. -- Randall triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From guy at genfiniti.com Tue Sep 20 16:04:56 2011 From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins) Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2011 17:04:56 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4A - Driving w/Overdrive Message-ID: All, It just occurred to me that I do not really understand how to drive the car with the OD on. When I was driving it back in the 80's, it never worked, so I have no experience with it. I know you should not engage the OD in reverse, or first gear. In fact, there is an electrical safety that prevents it. When is it appropriate to engage/disengage the OD? Is there some recommended "sweet spot" for engaging/disengaging? Can you shift gears up and down with the OD engaged? Or do you need to disengage the OD before changing gears? Cheers, Guy D. Huggins 1965 Triumph TR4A CTC 63569LO Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph From XJ6SOVEREIGN at aol.com Tue Sep 20 16:31:27 2011 From: XJ6SOVEREIGN at aol.com (XJ6SOVEREIGN at aol.com) Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2011 18:31:27 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] To restore or not restore, that is the question Message-ID: <8f117.12a3bc61.3baa6e3f@aol.com> Hello, I haven't been on here in a while. I have a 54 TR2 (rhd) that I bought around 8 years ago. The car needs a total restoration. The sheet metal work was started a few years ago but then stopped, new floor pans, inner and outer rockers, etc. were replaced. I really can't afford a professional restoration on it and even if I could that cost would far outweigh the value. I guess my question is if I do a lot of the work myself excluding body and paint(which I know is 50-60% of the restoration cost) what's a realistic cost? I'm guessing around 15K and up, so I'm not sure if I should sell it or try and restore it to the best on my abilities. I already spent around $3,000 in parts for it 8 years ago and another $3,000. in labor for the sheet metal work that was done so far. So I have around $7,800. already in the car, and the motors not correct I think it's from a Vanguard. The engine has a single Solex carburetor on it. The car originally was exported to Singapore and was there until the late 70's until it was shipped to Texas, and sat and it was never titled in the U.S., so it would be a cool car to restore with it's history. Any advice or comments are appreciated. Joe From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 20 17:23:26 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2011 16:23:26 -0700 Subject: [TR] 65 mph In-Reply-To: <20110920191850.01C00187909@autox.team.net> References: <20110920191850.01C00187909@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <081201cc77ec$4d1598f0$e740cad0$@rr.com> > swerved past a BMW driver trying to change a tire, If he was blocking traffic to the point where people had to swerve to get past him, then I daresay he deserved it. I would have driven on the flat to a safe place to change, with at least several feet between my car door and the traffic. A ruined wheel is a small price to pay. If the car won't move, then you stay inside with the doors closed, and wait for either a wrecker to show up, or the traffic to clear. Opening a door in traffic is an invitation to disaster. -- Randall From wbeech at flash.net Tue Sep 20 18:11:09 2011 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2011 19:11:09 -0500 Subject: [TR] 65 mph In-Reply-To: <20110920191850.01C00187909@autox.team.net> References: <20110920191850.01C00187909@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <5C498A55-D580-4952-A839-72B241D83B0E@flash.net> Ahhh.... The quintessential NYC experience, were you on to way to the Carnegie Deli? Just looked at the plugs on Tarbaby after a few drives at our new near- sea level home, they are a little/lot on the black side. I expected as much so I have leaned the SUs by two flats. Did not change the needles as it was recommended to leave them as stock when they were rebuilt at 6,000ft. I haven't changed the timing from 6 BTDC, any other re-aclimation suggestions would be appreciated. FWIW I use the mid-grade gas, two octane points higher here than in Utah TIA, Bill Sent from mobile Bill On Sep 20, 2011, at 2:18 PM, "spook01 at comcast.net" wrote: > The van wyck is traveled at high speed by nyc taxi drivers. > It's old, and people in nyc don't drive much...its the only place I've ever been where the cab driver swerved past a BMW driver trying to change a tire, and knocked the bimmer door off the car! As we blasted back across two lanes, he turned and grinned... > "he won't do that again!" > > Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone > > ----- Reply message ----- > From: "Randall" > To: > Cc: > Subject: [TR] 65 mph > Date: Tue, Sep 20, 2011 09:15 > > >> I think one hundred on a perfectly straight, billiard table >> smooth, deserted road is far more safe than doing 55 on the >> van wyck during rush hour. > > I'd never heard of the Van Wyck, so I looked it up on Google. Looks to be > fairly comparable to CA-91, which is what I drive to work almost every day > in my TR3. And is where my TR3A got totaled, while I was stopped behind > traffic. > > -- Randall > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From spook01 at comcast.net Tue Sep 20 18:28:46 2011 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2011 19:28:46 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?65_mph?= Message-ID: <20110921002850.61DEC187868@autox.team.net> Used to be based at jfk. We would fly into la guardia then sureway cab to jfk. One afternoon we heard a female on the cab radio... "gimme that! You don't have a clue where you're going! Hello, is anyone there?" "This is the dispatcha. Who is this?" "I'm a flight attendant, and we are in your cab. The driver is Russian or something. He's lost and doesn't speak English." "What cab ya in?" She gives him a number. "Ok, we gotcha. You're by the UN building.. hang on. Dmichi com'mere. The sergio he's lost." New voice in rapid Russian..... "Ok, lady, he knows now." "Well, I'm late, and.............." Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Wbeech" To: "spook01 at comcast.net" Cc: "Randall" , "triumphs at autox.team.net" Subject: [TR] 65 mph Date: Tue, Sep 20, 2011 19:11 Ahhh.... The quintessential NYC experience, were you on to way to the Carnegie Deli? Just looked at the plugs on Tarbaby after a few drives at our new near- sea level home, they are a little/lot on the black side. I expected as much so I have leaned the SUs by two flats. Did not change the needles as it was recommended to leave them as stock when they were rebuilt at 6,000ft. I haven't changed the timing from 6 BTDC, any other re-aclimation suggestions would be appreciated. FWIW I use the mid-grade gas, two octane points higher here than in Utah TIA, Bill Sent from mobile Bill On Sep 20, 2011, at 2:18 PM, "spook01 at comcast.net" wrote: > The van wyck is traveled at high speed by nyc taxi drivers. > It's old, and people in nyc don't drive much...its the only place I've ever been where the cab driver swerved past a BMW driver trying to change a tire, and knocked the bimmer door off the car! As we blasted back across two lanes, he turned and grinned... > "he won't do that again!" > > Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone > > ----- Reply message ----- > From: "Randall" > To: > Cc: > Subject: [TR] 65 mph > Date: Tue, Sep 20, 2011 09:15 > > >> I think one hundred on a perfectly straight, billiard table >> smooth, deserted road is far more safe than doing 55 on the >> van wyck during rush hour. > > I'd never heard of the Van Wyck, so I looked it up on Google. Looks to be > fairly comparable to CA-91, which is what I drive to work almost every day > in my TR3. And is where my TR3A got totaled, while I was stopped behind > traffic. > > -- Randall > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Tue Sep 20 19:32:18 2011 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2011 18:32:18 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Looking for a name & E-mail address Message-ID: <1316568738.95334.YahooMailNeo@web39421.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hi List! I'm asking the list for the name & the person's E-mail address of who I can send tech info. to, so anybody could download it off of the VTR Web site. I've E-mailed this request to Blake, but with my AOL address, he may not have received (Some servers think it's 'Spam mail'), or he hasn't been able to check his E-mail, Yet. Please send this info. to me personally, because many times I have to do 'back log readings' of the TRIUMPH Digest. TIA, -Cosmo Kramer From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 20 19:38:23 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2011 18:38:23 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4A - Driving w/Overdrive In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <084801cc77ff$277d4a30$7677de90$@rr.com> Driving styles will vary a lot, of course. For "normal" driving, I leave the OD off until I've reached cruising speed, then engage it. But there is no hard and fast rule; you can shift with the OD switch on if you like. I do occasionally forget to switch it off, and take off from a stop with the switch on. In that case, first gear is non-OD (due to the lockout switch). And if I shift fairly quickly into 2nd gear, it may not have built enough pressure to engage the OD and so I'll get 2nd-direct for a short time, followed by it shifting into 2nd OD on its own. But generally it will have enough pressure stored, and so it will just shift smoothly into 2nd OD. When I'm in a hurry, though, I use 2nd OD as well. -- Randall > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs- > bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of G.D. Huggins > Sent: Tuesday, September 20, 2011 3:05 PM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] TR4A - Driving w/Overdrive > > All, > > It just occurred to me that I do not really understand how to drive the > car > with the OD on. > When I was driving it back in the 80's, it never worked, so I have no > experience with it. > > I know you should not engage the OD in reverse, or first gear. In > fact, there > is an electrical safety that prevents it. > > When is it appropriate to engage/disengage the OD? Is there some > recommended > "sweet spot" for engaging/disengaging? > Can you shift gears up and down with the OD engaged? Or do you need to > disengage the OD before changing gears? > > > > Cheers, > > Guy D. Huggins > 1965 Triumph TR4A > CTC 63569LO > > Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3driver at ca.rr.com From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Tue Sep 20 19:44:33 2011 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2011 18:44:33 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] GPS Address & scenic drives Message-ID: <1316569473.45432.YahooMailNeo@web39404.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hi List! I know this is a stupid question, but here goes: What is the snail-mail address of the 'British Invasion' site that is usually held in VT. on the third weekend of Sept? I would like to plug it in my GPS. This way I can map out 'loop routes' for scenic drives. Also, If anyone is willing to E-mail me personally, of any scenic drives they would recommend to me, then PLEASE do this off the list. TIA, -Cosmo Kramer From leejohn7 at gmail.com Tue Sep 20 21:05:07 2011 From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard) Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2011 20:05:07 -0700 Subject: [TR] 65 mph In-Reply-To: <081201cc77ec$4d1598f0$e740cad0$@rr.com> References: <20110920191850.01C00187909@autox.team.net> <081201cc77ec$4d1598f0$e740cad0$@rr.com> Message-ID: Amen to that. Many years ago a good friend stopped on the shoulder, got out to check on something and was swept away by a semi. Wife and kids watched from inside the car. Tragic. Stay in the car! John Howard On Tue, Sep 20, 2011 at 4:23 PM, Randall wrote: > > swerved past a BMW driver trying to change a tire, > > If he was blocking traffic to the point where people had to swerve to get > past him, then I daresay he deserved it. I would have driven on the flat > to > a safe place to change, with at least several feet between my car door and > the traffic. A ruined wheel is a small price to pay. > > If the car won't move, then you stay inside with the doors closed, and wait > for either a wrecker to show up, or the traffic to clear. Opening a door > in > traffic is an invitation to disaster. > > -- Randall > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/leejohn7 at gmail.com From spook01 at comcast.net Tue Sep 20 21:14:55 2011 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2011 22:14:55 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?65_mph?= Message-ID: <20110921031459.EC9DC187868@autox.team.net> He was in the nail lane. The cab driver took the shoulder to pass. The poor schmuck in the bimmer just happened to be there. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Randall" To: Cc: Subject: [TR] 65 mph Date: Tue, Sep 20, 2011 18:23 > swerved past a BMW driver trying to change a tire, If he was blocking traffic to the point where people had to swerve to get past him, then I daresay he deserved it. I would have driven on the flat to a safe place to change, with at least several feet between my car door and the traffic. A ruined wheel is a small price to pay. If the car won't move, then you stay inside with the doors closed, and wait for either a wrecker to show up, or the traffic to clear. Opening a door in traffic is an invitation to disaster. -- Randall triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Sep 21 06:11:52 2011 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2011 08:11:52 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] TR4A - Driving w/Overdrive Message-ID: <3154c.71c6dc99.3bab2e88@cs.com> In a message dated 9/20/2011 8:07:46 PM Central Daylight Time, guy at genfiniti.com writes: > When is it appropriate to engage/disengage the OD? Is there some > recommended > "sweet spot" for engaging/disengaging? > Can you shift gears up and down with the OD engaged? Or do you need to > disengage the OD before changing gears? > > If you ask 10 list members you will get 12 opinions on how and when to use the overdrive. Here's mine: Use it as if it were another gear (which is what it is). If you are loafing along and want to upshift, hit the overdrive. The O/D is really nice in traffic where you are speeding up and slowing down. 20 to 50 MPH is easily accommodated with 3rd and 3rd O/D. No clutching required. 3rd O/D is especially nice when entering a highway. 3rd will get you up to 50 and the switch to O/D will run you on up to 70 where it is safe to merge into traffic. You have the A-type which has an accumulator which makes the shift into O/D a bit sudden. I like to dip the clutch pedal a bit when hitting the switch to lessen the impact on the drive train. Others rather like the "kick in the a$$" feel when engaging the overdrive. My TR6 has the J-type and doesn't have that issue. I engage it whenever I feel like it whether it is high revs, low revs, full throttle or no throttle or anywhere in-between. Play with it and see what you like. You will really have to work at it to break it. Dave From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed Sep 21 06:19:45 2011 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2011 08:19:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] GPS Address & scenic drives In-Reply-To: <1316569473.45432.YahooMailNeo@web39404.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <1316569473.45432.YahooMailNeo@web39404.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <33B9E07959C445EE9D3EE87EA34DE0F3@BobPC> The British Invasion is in the Stowe Field which is on Weeks Hill Rd in Stowe VT. If you go to http://maps.google.com you can map it out. If you're planning on coming to it next year, they do a Lake Champlain drive & lunch on Friday and a drive through Smugglers Notch on Sunday. Pretty much any drive you take in Vermont can be called scenic! Bob Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 1975 TR6 with: Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff & CVJs -----Original Message----- From: Cosmo Kramer Sent: Tuesday, September 20, 2011 9:44 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] GPS Address & scenic drives Hi List! I know this is a stupid question, but here goes: What is the snail-mail address of the 'British Invasion' site that is usually held in VT. on the third weekend of Sept? I would like to plug it in my GPS. This way I can map out 'loop routes' for scenic drives. Also, If anyone is willing to E-mail me personally, of any scenic drives they would recommend to me, then PLEASE do this off the list. TIA, -Cosmo Kramer triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Sep 21 06:30:43 2011 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2011 08:30:43 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] To restore or not restore, that is the question Message-ID: <31d72.7a0e774f.3bab32f2@cs.com> In a message dated 9/20/2011 8:09:42 PM Central Daylight Time, XJ6SOVEREIGN at aol.com writes: > I haven't been on here in a while. I have a 54 TR2 (rhd) that I bought > around 8 years ago. The car needs a total restoration. The sheet metal > work > was started a few years ago but then stopped, new floor pans, inner and > outer rockers, etc. were replaced. I really can't afford a professional > restoration on it and even if I could that cost would far outweigh the > value. I > guess my question is if I do a lot of the work myself excluding body and > paint(which I know is 50-60% of the restoration cost) what's a realistic > cost? > I'm guessing around 15K and up, so I'm not sure if I should sell it or try > > and restore it to the best on my abilities. I already spent around $3,000 > in > parts for it 8 years ago and another $3,000. in labor for the sheet metal > > work that was done so far. So I have around $7,800. already in the car, > and > the motors not correct I think it's from a Vanguard. The engine has a > single Solex carburetor on it. The car originally was exported to > Singapore > and was there until the late 70's until it was shipped to Texas, and sat > and > it was never titled in the U.S., so it would be a cool car to restore > with > it's history. > Any advice or comments are appreciated. > Never ever ever undertake a restoration expecting to break even. The numbers never work out. The two reasons to do a restoration are 1) sentimental attachment to the vehicle and 2) the enjoyment of the process. These are plenty good reasons and there are plenty of us foolish enough to do this which makes for some pretty good bargains when it comes time to sell restored cars. As for what will it cost to finish the restoration? How much you got? That question has a multitude of answers based on what kind of job you want to do. You can get a $1000 paint job or a $5000 paint job. What is the condition of the drive train? You can do a full rebuild of the engine and transmission or just freshen them up since they may be in pretty good shape as is. Leather interior or vinyl? Wool carpets or nylon? And then, what will the car be worth when you are done? What is it worth as is? I have no answers but don't expect to get your investment back out. Some of it, surely, most of it possibly. All of it and maybe some profit? You would have to get really lucky to pull that off. But the restoration process is a rewarding activity in its own right. You get a sense of accomplishment, you gain an appreciation of the level of effort and detail it takes to build even a simple car like a TR2. You get to buy and play with new tools. You enjoy the camaraderie of others in the same hobby and you can share notes and tools with your new friends. And taking a car you restored yourself to a car show and winning an award is priceless. Let's just hope the UARS satellite doesn't hit it. Dave From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com Wed Sep 21 07:59:44 2011 From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2011 09:59:44 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] TR250 Diff Message-ID: <998b.2faf5186.3bab47d0@aol.com> A friend has destroyed the diff in his TR250. Worn bearings, broken teeth, etc. We have two questions: 1. Is the TR4A and TR6 diff a drop-in for his 250? 2. Does anyone know of a shop or individual who can rebuild his diff? We're in Upstate New York (Rochester area) Many thanks! George Haynes From wayne at motorcarriage.com Wed Sep 21 09:44:24 2011 From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee) Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2011 11:44:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] Spifire MkI & MkII Caliper Pistons In-Reply-To: <5C498A55-D580-4952-A839-72B241D83B0E@flash.net> References: <20110920191850.01C00187909@autox.team.net> <5C498A55-D580-4952-A839-72B241D83B0E@flash.net> Message-ID: <53C56DD4233C46A2B012F18C15AD94F0@Engineering> Hi Folks, I'm looking for a supplier that has the early Spitfire Caliper Pistons. These are for the Girling 12SP Caliper with the 1 11/16" Pistons. Also, I have a nice solid Spit Mk3 project I'll be parting out if anyone wants something. Beautiful Nose. Tub, Trunk and Frame are solid too. Factory Steel Hard Top will be for sale as well as a Fiberglass Rally type Double bubble vented type. Regards, Wayne Lee Douglas, MA ======= Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found. (Email Guard: 7.0.0.27, Virus/Spyware Database: 6.18360) http://www.pctools.com/ ======= From tfansher at comcast.net Wed Sep 21 10:36:09 2011 From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2011 16:36:09 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR4A - Driving w/Overdrive In-Reply-To: <3154c.71c6dc99.3bab2e88@cs.com> Message-ID: <751047678.1921935.1316622969216.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> I agree with Dave, but will add one comment.B John Mac while driving into Stratford on Avon with Ronnie Babbit, Fred Thomas and me made the comment that anytime you are over 2000 rpm's is a good time to shift into overdrive.B I do that in my neighborhood speed limit 15 mph, great for 2nd overdrive.B So that's my "Sweet Spot". Tom 60 TR3A w/OD 61 TR3A w/OD 73 Stag w OD 62 TR4 w/OD- wish I had time for the much needed rebuild ----- Original Message ----- From: Dave1massey at cs.com To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, September 21, 2011 8:11:52 AM Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A - Driving w/Overdrive In a message dated 9/20/2011 8:07:46 PM Central Daylight Time, guy at genfiniti.com writes: > When is it appropriate to engage/disengage the OD? B Is there some > recommended > "sweet spot" for engaging/disengaging? > Can you shift gears up and down with the OD engaged? B Or do you need to > disengage the OD before changing gears? > > If you ask 10 list members you will get 12 opinions on how and when to use the overdrive. B Here's mine: From yellowtr at adelphia.net Wed Sep 21 10:47:45 2011 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2011 12:47:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] To restore or not restore, that is the question In-Reply-To: <8f117.12a3bc61.3baa6e3f@aol.com> References: <8f117.12a3bc61.3baa6e3f@aol.com> Message-ID: <201109211247.45868.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Tuesday, September 20, 2011 06:31:27 pm XJ6SOVEREIGN at aol.com wrote: > Hello, > I haven't been on here in a while. I have a 54 TR2 (rhd) that I bought > around 8 years ago. The car needs a total restoration. The sheet metal > work was started a few years ago but then stopped, new floor pans, inner > and outer rockers, etc. were replaced. I really can't afford a > professional restoration on it and even if I could that cost would far > outweigh the value. I guess my question is if I do a lot of the work > myself excluding body and paint(which I know is 50-60% of the restoration > cost) what's a realistic cost? I'm guessing around 15K and up, so I'm not > sure if I should sell it or try and restore it to the best on my > abilities. I already spent around $3,000 in parts for it 8 years ago and > another $3,000. in labor for the sheet metal work that was done so far. So > I have around $7,800. already in the car, and the motors not correct I > think it's from a Vanguard. The engine has a single Solex carburetor on > it. The car originally was exported to Singapore and was there until the > late 70's until it was shipped to Texas, and sat and it was never titled > in the U.S., so it would be a cool car to restore with it's history. > Any advice or comments are appreciated. > Joe > Joe, Sorry for late reply, out of town. I just spent well over 10K in parts, paint etc on my 72 TR6. I did all the work myself but the engine machining etc. You can restore it yourself just watch for the big sales during the winter from the big 3. You can save a ton of $ in parts you might not need right now but will in the future. Dont get me wrong, the work it hard and frustrating at times but if you do it right and have a professional paint job the car could easily be worth 25K or much more. I didnt restore my 3 Triumphs to sell. I did it for the fun of the task and the joy of driving them. Just my 2 cents. Bob From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Sep 21 11:39:58 2011 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2011 13:39:58 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] TR250 Diff Message-ID: <29bdc.607dfcac.3bab7b6e@cs.com> In a message dated 9/21/2011 11:45:52 AM Central Daylight Time, GHaynesTR4 at aol.com writes: > A friend has destroyed the diff in his TR250. Worn bearings, broken > teeth, etc. > We have two questions: > 1. Is the TR4A and TR6 diff a drop-in for his 250? > 2. Does anyone know of a shop or individual who can rebuild his diff? > We're in Upstate New York (Rochester area) > Many thanks! > George Haynes > This would be an optimum opportunity to change to the Goodparts differential upgrade. http://goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=16 It may even be cheaper than rebuilding the one you have. If it fits. Dave From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Sep 21 12:07:50 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2011 11:07:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] To restore or not restore, that is the question In-Reply-To: <8f117.12a3bc61.3baa6e3f@aol.com> References: <8f117.12a3bc61.3baa6e3f@aol.com> Message-ID: <08ee01cc7889$6113ec10$233bc430$@rr.com> Kind of depends on what you plan to do with the car, IMO. A show-winning "correct" restoration will cost far more than the car is worth. But if you just want to fix it up as something fun to drive (and get complimented on), that could be achieved a lot cheaper. I am constantly amazed at all the positive comments I get with my TR3 in the condition it's currently in (paint literally falling off, holes in the leather, no door panels, etc). Better than a concours trophy IMO, and it happens frequently instead of just once or twice a year. I might have a pair of H4 carbs & intake manifold in the parts bin that could be rebuilt. Write me off-list if you are interested. -- Randall From david.brister at wanadoo.fr Wed Sep 21 12:11:34 2011 From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister) Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2011 20:11:34 +0200 Subject: [TR] TR250 Diff In-Reply-To: <998b.2faf5186.3bab47d0@aol.com> References: <998b.2faf5186.3bab47d0@aol.com> Message-ID: <311F7CDA9F9141E0B12ABB0258E764FE@dbristerPC> A couple of years ago my diff's clonking and leaking reached a point where I could stand it no more.. I acquired a used diff through the TR Register ads and put it in place. It was'nt wonderful but it worked so I decided to have a go at rebuilding the original diff myself. I followed the instructions in the Triumph works manual and Haynes as close as I possibly could. Got advice from Randall as well! I found all the parts I might need were still available. If I found for example I needed a shim of x thou I had it sent. Likewise all the gaskets. Anyway when it was finished I put it back and was absolutely astonished to find I had a clonk free TR and a silent diff except at 40-41 mph when youi could just hear a tiny tiny whine. No rear axle leaks either. Took about 3 or 4 months of leisurely work. So my suggestion is be bloody bold and resolute and have a go yourself. It actually is'nt as daunting as the manuals make it seem and you don't need any special tools beyond an iron rod. YMMV, naturally, David Brister CTC 77785 O -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 7 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 695 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Professional version does not have this message From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed Sep 21 13:22:38 2011 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2011 15:22:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR250 Diff In-Reply-To: <998b.2faf5186.3bab47d0@aol.com> References: <998b.2faf5186.3bab47d0@aol.com> Message-ID: <99D7E76D666D4451944689BF62AAB2D2@BobPC> It's a 6 hour drive but John Esposito is one of the best shops out there http://www.quantumechanics.com/ The local UPS guy will also deliver diffs..... probably cheaper then what you'd spend on gas delivering it yourself. If a TR6 diff will fit a 250, it opens up the Goodparts Nissan diff upgrade. Bob Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 1975 TR6 with: Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff & CVJs -----Original Message----- From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com Sent: Wednesday, September 21, 2011 9:59 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR250 Diff A friend has destroyed the diff in his TR250. Worn bearings, broken teeth, etc. We have two questions: 1. Is the TR4A and TR6 diff a drop-in for his 250? 2. Does anyone know of a shop or individual who can rebuild his diff? We're in Upstate New York (Rochester area) Many thanks! George Haynes triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From mhooper at indiefilmnet.com Wed Sep 21 14:02:00 2011 From: mhooper at indiefilmnet.com (Mark Hooper) Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2011 16:02:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4A - Driving w/Overdrive In-Reply-To: <751047678.1921935.1316622969216.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <5db12c4e.1cc7899.b94e31b.2e35@indiefilmnet.com> Here is another overdrive note: Standard piston engines have a "power band". That is an rpm range in which the engine power output is considerably stronger than in lower or higher speeds. When performing manoeuvres such as rapid passing, the usual approach is to select the gear that will have the engine in the power band and then accelerating past the car in front. The reason one does not always leave the engine turning rapidly in a lower gear to have the power available upon demand is the increased noise and the much higher fuel consumption in that range. So, with an overdrive, one can perform a nice and simple trick. When driving behind a car that one wishes to pass, one can be in the normal o/d gear that lets the engine run below the power band. Then, at the appropriate time, push a bit harder on the throttle and switch off the overdrive. The engine will immediately jump into the power band and the you (and presumably your TR with it) will start to accelerate toward the car ahead. This would be a good time to steer around it. Once past the car which was once ahead and is now behind, just ease off the throttle and re-engage the overdrive. The above gives one a very smooth and rapid way of passing without losing time on clutching and re-accelerating. With a TR6, for example, the power band starts just over 3000 rpm. With the O/D active, highway speed is around 2500 rpm in 4th gear. Turning off the O/D will cause the engine to jump to about 3200 rpm, which has a lot more pulling power. Mark Hooper 1972 TR6 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of tfansher at comcast.net Sent: September 21, 2011 12:36 PM To: Dave1massey at cs.com Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A - Driving w/Overdrive I agree with Dave, but will add one comment.B John Mac while driving into Stratford on Avon with Ronnie Babbit, Fred Thomas and me made the comment that anytime you are over 2000 rpm's is a good time to shift into overdrive.B I do that in my neighborhood speed limit 15 mph, great for 2nd overdrive.B So that's my "Sweet Spot". Tom 60 TR3A w/OD 61 TR3A w/OD 73 Stag w OD 62 TR4 w/OD- wish I had time for the much needed rebuild ----- Original Message ----- From: Dave1massey at cs.com To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, September 21, 2011 8:11:52 AM Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A - Driving w/Overdrive In a message dated 9/20/2011 8:07:46 PM Central Daylight Time, guy at genfiniti.com writes: > When is it appropriate to engage/disengage the OD? B Is there some > recommended > "sweet spot" for engaging/disengaging? > Can you shift gears up and down with the OD engaged? B Or do you need to > disengage the OD before changing gears? > > If you ask 10 list members you will get 12 opinions on how and when to use the overdrive. B Here's mine: From spitlist at cox.net Wed Sep 21 14:12:16 2011 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2011 13:12:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] Spifire MkI & MkII Caliper Pistons In-Reply-To: <53C56DD4233C46A2B012F18C15AD94F0@Engineering> References: <20110920191850.01C00187909@autox.team.net><5C498A55-D580-4952-A839-72B241D83B0E@flash.net> <53C56DD4233C46A2B012F18C15AD94F0@Engineering> Message-ID: <5D63920BBCB345AD8845208D1E83B03F@Vista> Wayne, Last I checked the pistons for Mk1/Mk2 are unobtanium. That is why upgrading to the later ones is recommended. If your parts car has good ones, it would be a good idea to use them. If they are gone or unusable, I have a Pair that I can sell you. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Wayne Lee Sent: Wednesday, September 21, 2011 8:44 AM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Spifire MkI & MkII Caliper Pistons Hi Folks, I'm looking for a supplier that has the early Spitfire Caliper Pistons. These are for the Girling 12SP Caliper with the 1 11/16" Pistons. Also, I have a nice solid Spit Mk3 project I'll be parting out if anyone wants something. Beautiful Nose. Tub, Trunk and Frame are solid too. Factory Steel Hard Top will be for sale as well as a Fiberglass Rally type Double bubble vented type. Regards, Wayne Lee Douglas, MA ======= Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found. (Email Guard: 7.0.0.27, Virus/Spyware Database: 6.18360) http://www.pctools.com/ ======= triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net From wayne at motorcarriage.com Wed Sep 21 14:33:16 2011 From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee) Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2011 16:33:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] Spifire MkI & MkII Caliper Pistons In-Reply-To: <5D63920BBCB345AD8845208D1E83B03F@Vista> References: <20110920191850.01C00187909@autox.team.net><5C498A55-D580-4952-A839-72B241D83B0E@flash.net> <53C56DD4233C46A2B012F18C15AD94F0@Engineering> <5D63920BBCB345AD8845208D1E83B03F@Vista> Message-ID: Hi Joe, Thanks for the info, I was aware the Pistons are difficult to find. The problem is they are not going on a Spitfire. They are going to go no My Vintage Formula Ford Race Car a 1971 March 719. I don't own any other Spits than the one I will be parting out since selling it whole isn't working out. My March presently has Girling LF14's all around and I'd like to lighten up the rear with the smaller Calipers and they were a popular Caliper on Lotus' And Merlyn FF's in the day. Do you know how much heavier the later Spit Caliper is than the 12SP? Also the Piston dia.? The 12SP's had the 1 11/16" dia. Pistons. The same 3.25" Mounting holes though correct? I found someone who can supply the Pistons in Stainless custom for $30.00 each, but I'll make sure the well is dry first. What is the Girling designation for the later Spit Caliper ie: 14SP or whatever? Cheers, Wayne -----Original Message----- From: Joe Curry [mailto:spitlist at cox.net] Sent: Wednesday, September 21, 2011 4:12 PM To: 'Wayne Lee'; Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [TR] Spifire MkI & MkII Caliper Pistons Wayne, Last I checked the pistons for Mk1/Mk2 are unobtanium. That is why upgrading to the later ones is recommended. If your parts car has good ones, it would be a good idea to use them. If they are gone or unusable, I have a Pair that I can sell you. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Wayne Lee Sent: Wednesday, September 21, 2011 8:44 AM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Spifire MkI & MkII Caliper Pistons Hi Folks, I'm looking for a supplier that has the early Spitfire Caliper Pistons. These are for the Girling 12SP Caliper with the 1 11/16" Pistons. Also, I have a nice solid Spit Mk3 project I'll be parting out if anyone wants something. Beautiful Nose. Tub, Trunk and Frame are solid too. Factory Steel Hard Top will be for sale as well as a Fiberglass Rally type Double bubble vented type. Regards, Wayne Lee Douglas, MA ======= Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found. (Email Guard: 7.0.0.27, Virus/Spyware Database: 6.18360) http://www.pctools.com/ ======= triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net ======= Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found. (Email Guard: 7.0.0.27, Virus/Spyware Database: 6.18360) http://www.pctools.com/ ======= ======= Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found. (Email Guard: 7.0.0.27, Virus/Spyware Database: 6.18360) http://www.pctools.com/ ======= From terryrs at comcast.net Wed Sep 21 16:04:41 2011 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2011 22:04:41 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] To restore or not restore, that is the question In-Reply-To: <08ee01cc7889$6113ec10$233bc430$@rr.com> Message-ID: <1286180463.1069392.1316642681365.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> I would add just one element to what's been discussed. That's the definition of "restored." The automatic assumption is often that when a car is "restored," followed by any number of adjectives suggesting immaculate attention to detail, the car is like new. Don't be surprised by the shakedown bugs you'll find as you drive it for any length of time. These are often invisible to concourse judges, but can leave one coughing distractedly into one's fist at the side of the road when one finds, for instance, that one should have used a pliable red wire instead of bigger rigid stranded wire from the alternator conversion, to find the wire broke because of vibration. When one finds one, one fixes one, then two, then three. My sister describes my experience with my '68 MGB in college as "his torso under the hood, his butt in the air." Three-quarters cool, one quarter embarrasment. But I'd rather be embarrassed with a cool car than yawning in a modern compact. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hamsphire From bill_beecher at flash.net Wed Sep 21 17:20:26 2011 From: bill_beecher at flash.net (bill_beecher at flash.net) Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2011 18:20:26 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Clutch recommendations Message-ID: <179DCF84DC8F43DB864E2F1E682573B6@bboffice> Early this year the clutch was slipping ever so slightly on hard acceleration after the 1st-to-2nd shift. I took it to the local well-respected British repair guru, he flushed and bled the master & slave system, said there was goop in the line and it was not releasing as quickly as it should. Well, now I can break loose under a hard pedal without shifting and I think I may have to limp through the rest of the season and add this to my winter project list. A little history: when we re-assembled the car three years I reviewed the clutch and it looked almost new under visual inspection, the fingers on the pressure plate seemed to be in equally good order and of consistent tension. So, now here I am 2700 mile later thinking I need to pull the tranny and replace the clutch components. I checked the free-play at the slave cylinder rod, about 1/2". Is there anything else I can look at to be sure before tearing into it? What are the recommendations for replacements? I am not a competition driver, just around town and short trips. Looks like the going price is about $250 for the three components. TIA, Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" From wbeech at flash.net Wed Sep 21 17:36:18 2011 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2011 18:36:18 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Clutch recommendations Message-ID: <7F305892D4C84D5597193030E8162074@bboffice> Early this year the clutch was slipping ever so slightly on hard acceleration after the 1st-to-2nd shift. I took it to the local well-respected British repair guru, he flushed and bled the master & slave system, said there was goop in the line and it was not releasing as quickly as it should. Well, now I can break loose under a hard pedal without shifting and I think I may have to limp through the rest of the season and add this to my winter project list. A little history: when we re-assembled the car three years I reviewed the clutch and it looked almost new under visual inspection, the fingers on the pressure plate seemed to be in equally good order and of consistent tension. So, now here I am 2700 mile later thinking I need to pull the tranny and replace the clutch components. I checked the free-play at the slave cylinder rod, about 1/2". Is there anything else I can look at to be sure before tearing into it? What are the recommendations for replacements? I am not a competition driver, just around town and short trips. Looks like the going price is about $250 for the three components. TIA, Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" From kinderlehrer at comcast.net Wed Sep 21 19:00:36 2011 From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer) Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2011 18:00:36 -0700 Subject: [TR] To restore or not restore, that is the question In-Reply-To: <1286180463.1069392.1316642681365.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1286180463.1069392.1316642681365.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <4E7A88B4.90805@comcast.net> There's an interesting video on utube taken at a Haggerty sponsored seminar in Scottsdale about survivor, or unrestored, cars. There is even some guy in the audience that keeps asking questions about British cars and Triumphs. Maybe he owns a TR250. Maybe he's on this list. Maybe he's back from Triumphest.. The video is at: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3WlNWVhOUMI&feature=player_embedded Bob On 9/21/2011 3:04 PM, terryrs at comcast.net wrote: > I would add just one element to what's been discussed. That's the definition of "restored." > > The automatic assumption is often that when a car is "restored," followed by any number of adjectives suggesting immaculate attention to detail, the car is like new. Don't be surprised by the shakedown bugs you'll find as you drive it for any length of time. These are often invisible to concourse judges, but can leave one coughing distractedly into one's fist at the side of the road when one finds, for instance, that one should have used a pliable red wire instead of bigger rigid stranded wire from the alternator conversion, to find the wire broke because of vibration. > > When one finds one, one fixes one, then two, then three. My sister describes my experience with my '68 MGB in college as "his torso under the hood, his butt in the air." > > Three-quarters cool, one quarter embarrasment. But I'd rather be embarrassed with a cool car than yawning in a modern compact. > > Terry Smith, '59 TR3A > New Hamsphire > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/kinderlehrer at comcast.net From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Sep 21 20:16:19 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2011 19:16:19 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Clutch recommendations In-Reply-To: <179DCF84DC8F43DB864E2F1E682573B6@bboffice> References: <179DCF84DC8F43DB864E2F1E682573B6@bboffice> Message-ID: <096f01cc78cd$9decea80$d9c6bf80$@rr.com> > I checked the free-play at the slave cylinder rod, about 1/2". Something very wrong there, Bill. I don't know what exactly, but if it was set properly before and now has 1/2" of free play at the pushrod, something is badly wrong. I'd say it was likely to be a broken taper pin, except that wouldn't cause the clutch to slip. So I'm guessing instead that something is blocking the pressure plate away from the flywheel; like perhaps the friction plate coming apart. -- Randall From diggle at clear.net.nz Thu Sep 22 01:41:03 2011 From: diggle at clear.net.nz (diggle at clear.net.nz) Date: Thu, 22 Sep 2011 19:41:03 +1200 Subject: [TR] To restore or not restore, that is the question Message-ID: <4e7ae68f.244.4566.32301@clear.net.nz> First thankyou for the replies re upholstery. After paying way too much for a TR4 26years ago and then finding that the restoration was so so, I can confirm that the price I paid was probably low when I think about all the enjoyment I have had. I have a wad of bills in my folder and once tried to depress myself when I put all my spendings on a spreadsheet. I do almost everything myself nowadays, partially due to a lack of excess spending money but mostly because I really enjoy doing it. Even having done lots myself my car owes me much more than he's worth but I don't regret it. The camaraderie, the nice comments etc what more could a person want? From auprichard at uprichard.net Thu Sep 22 13:56:40 2011 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Thu, 22 Sep 2011 15:56:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] wiring question References: Message-ID: <2F6897BB301B4957B3D9C38C1930BF9F@DCH6RFC1> I have finally worked out that my TR250 has a TR6 light switch arm on the steering column. The 250 wiring called for 2 solid blue wires to connect to a single blue in the wiring harness, but the TR6 has a single solid blue and a blue/white (which in the TR6 feeds the high beam lamp in the speedometer. I am guessing I make do with the single blue and ignore the blue /white, but if anyone has experience with this, I'd appreciate the input. Thanks in advance. Andrew Uprichard From xj6sovereign at aol.com Thu Sep 22 15:11:46 2011 From: xj6sovereign at aol.com (xj6sovereign at aol.com) Date: Thu, 22 Sep 2011 17:11:46 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] To restore or not restore, that is the question Message-ID: <8CE47835E9779FE-1C0C-6CD10@webmail-m071.sysops.aol.com> I just wanted to say thanks to all who replied. There was some great information and advice given to me. I really appreciate the response I received. I may wait until next Spring to start working on it but thanks again, you guys are the best! Joe From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Sep 22 17:10:29 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 22 Sep 2011 16:10:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] wiring question In-Reply-To: <2F6897BB301B4957B3D9C38C1930BF9F@DCH6RFC1> References: <2F6897BB301B4957B3D9C38C1930BF9F@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: <00c701cc797c$d7d52f00$877f8d00$@rr.com> > I am guessing I make do with the single blue and ignore the blue > /white, but > if anyone has experience with this, I'd appreciate the input. I don't have any experience, just looking at the diagrams. The second wire (blue on TR250, blue/white on TR6) implements the "flash to pass" feature. According to the TR250 diagram, when you pull back on the stalk, it would light whichever beam was selected by the dimmer switch. But the TR6 setup always lights the high/main beam when you pull on the stalk. My first choice would be to implement the TR6 setup, by connecting the second blue wire from the switch to a blue/white wire somewhere. But that probably requires running an additional wire somewhere. (And of course you'll probably need to check which blue wire is which.) My second choice would be to wire it up the TR250 way, with both blues from the switch connected to the blue to the dimmer switch. Leaving it disconnected seems silly to me, but it's your car. :) -- Randall From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Sep 22 17:53:59 2011 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 22 Sep 2011 19:53:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] wiring question In-Reply-To: <2F6897BB301B4957B3D9C38C1930BF9F@DCH6RFC1> References: <2F6897BB301B4957B3D9C38C1930BF9F@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: When you say "a TR6 light switch arm on the steering column" what do you mean? Beginning with the '73, the light switch is on the dash and the FTP/High Beam switch is on the right side of the steering wheel. The wiring for that set up is much different. '72 and earlier had the dimmer on the floor. In looking at the AAW schematics (http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr2506.pdf) for the 250 & 6, the two blue wires on the 250 go into a bullet connector and then 1 blue wire goes to the dimmer. On the 6 it's the same except it's 1 blue wire out of the switch to the dimmer. In both cases 1 blue wire to the dimmer. The blue/white feeds the high beam indicator & the high beams via the dimmer on both cars. They're really wired pretty much the same. Bob Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 1975 TR6 with: Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff & CVJs -----Original Message----- From: Andrew Uprichard Sent: Thursday, September 22, 2011 3:56 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net ; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] wiring question I have finally worked out that my TR250 has a TR6 light switch arm on the steering column. The 250 wiring called for 2 solid blue wires to connect to a single blue in the wiring harness, but the TR6 has a single solid blue and a blue/white (which in the TR6 feeds the high beam lamp in the speedometer. I am guessing I make do with the single blue and ignore the blue /white, but if anyone has experience with this, I'd appreciate the input. Thanks in advance. Andrew Uprichard triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From adrianjones747 at earthlink.net Thu Sep 22 21:28:07 2011 From: adrianjones747 at earthlink.net (Adrian Jones) Date: Thu, 22 Sep 2011 23:28:07 -0400 Subject: [TR] To restore or not restore, that is the question Message-ID: <009f01cc79a0$d16c5d90$744518b0$@net> Before I bought my TR3 10 years ago, I made sure I had sufficient funds to get it running and keep it running. Then, it was a simple matter of, if anything went wrong, then it would get fixed immediately if not sooner. This was to be a driver car - to get me to work on time. I paid 6k and then an immediate 4k to get it running. Then probably another 4k over the years, mostly my effort, with support from this list. I'm thinking it is worth 16k now. Did I get more enjoyment from this magnificent car over the decade or from my stock market "investment"? You know the answer to that one! Cheers! From tr250driver at gmail.com Fri Sep 23 06:44:26 2011 From: tr250driver at gmail.com (darrell floyd) Date: Fri, 23 Sep 2011 08:44:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR250 Diff In-Reply-To: <99D7E76D666D4451944689BF62AAB2D2@BobPC> References: <998b.2faf5186.3bab47d0@aol.com> <99D7E76D666D4451944689BF62AAB2D2@BobPC> Message-ID: I am going to say that a TR6 diff will bolt right into the TR250 frame. Both diffs are the same although some TR250's had a bolt on rear extension in place of the one piece casting. Darrell On Wed, Sep 21, 2011 at 3:22 PM, Bob Danielson < 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote: > It's a 6 hour drive but John Esposito is one of the best shops out there > http://www.quantumechanics.**com/ The > local UPS guy will also deliver diffs..... probably cheaper then what you'd > spend on gas delivering it yourself. > > If a TR6 diff will fit a 250, it opens up the Goodparts Nissan diff > upgrade. > > Bob > > > Bob Danielson > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > 1975 TR6 with: > Throttle Body Injection > Toyota 5 Speed > Nissan Diff & CVJs > > > > -----Original Message----- From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com > Sent: Wednesday, September 21, 2011 9:59 AM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] TR250 Diff > > > A friend has destroyed the diff in his TR250. Worn bearings, broken > teeth, etc. > We have two questions: > 1. Is the TR4A and TR6 diff a drop-in for his 250? > 2. Does anyone know of a shop or individual who can rebuild his diff? > We're in Upstate New York (Rochester area) > Many thanks! > George Haynes > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.**danielsonfamily.org > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > options/triumphs/tr250driver@**gmail.com From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Fri Sep 23 09:59:07 2011 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Fri, 23 Sep 2011 11:59:07 -0400 Subject: [TR] Yippee - just got Stainless Steel bumpers for the TR2 Message-ID: Ordered a set of stainless bumpers and over-riders from a company called Harrington group. They make mini cars and a copy of the Isetta.... They also offer stainless bumpers - so I thought I'd give them a shot. No financial interest here - just wanted to let you know they look good. I've got them out in the rain right now to see if any rust forms.... I won't be installing them for another month - but I put the parts up to the car and all looks right - over-riders look just like the orignals (but not rusty) and they are polished to a mirror shine - you can see my flip flops in one of the overriders in the pic below. http://tinyurl.com/3k964tk Chris From cak at dimebank.com Fri Sep 23 13:52:46 2011 From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev) Date: Fri, 23 Sep 2011 12:52:46 -0700 Subject: [TR] wiring question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4E7CE38E.3060600@dimebank.com> It's been about 20 years, but I remember that my 4A's light switch was not correctly wired to implement flash-to-pass. I no longer recall why I was digging into the light switch. I figured that this was due to some silly US regulation at the time and made whatever was the simple but obvious correction to match the schematic... From anabil007 at comcast.net Fri Sep 23 15:14:18 2011 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh) Date: Fri, 23 Sep 2011 14:14:18 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR2 Low Port Head Message-ID: <80E7FA3D-50B0-446A-808E-1486F3EB6345@comcast.net> We are in need of a TR2 Low Port Head (good or rebuildable) for restoration of TS-141. Thanks for the help ... "Life is too short to drive Boring Cars" Bill Pugh Wallace, CA Casper 1957 TR3 TS16665L anabil007 at comcast.net From wbeech at flash.net Fri Sep 23 17:50:12 2011 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Fri, 23 Sep 2011 18:50:12 -0500 Subject: [TR] Yippee - just got Stainless Steel bumpers for the TR2 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5B30909D-B4E7-448B-97B0-764546B70BA8@flash.net> Chris, they look great. Do you have the contact details? Thx, Bill Sent from mobile Bill On Sep 23, 2011, at 10:59 AM, Chris Simo wrote: > Ordered a set of stainless bumpers and over-riders from a company called > Harrington group. They make mini cars and a copy of the Isetta.... > > They also offer stainless bumpers - so I thought I'd give them a shot. No > financial interest here - just wanted to let you know they look good. I've > got them out in the rain right now to see if any rust forms.... I won't be > installing them for another month - but I put the parts up to the car and > all looks right - over-riders look just like the orignals (but not rusty) > and they are polished to a mirror shine - you can see my flip flops in one > of the overriders in the pic below. > > http://tinyurl.com/3k964tk > > Chris > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From auprichard at uprichard.net Fri Sep 23 18:15:32 2011 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Fri, 23 Sep 2011 20:15:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] wiring question In-Reply-To: <4E7CE38E.3060600@dimebank.com> References: <4E7CE38E.3060600@dimebank.com> Message-ID: <75B328548B6F4A46BEE84E7B6F2EAACD@DCH6RFC1> Simple and obvious? Sure you weren't thinking about your VW ?? But thanks for the input! Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Kantarjiev Sent: Friday, September 23, 2011 3:53 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] wiring question It's been about 20 years, but I remember that my 4A's light switch was not correctly wired to implement flash-to-pass. I no longer recall why I was digging into the light switch. I figured that this was due to some silly US regulation at the time and made whatever was the simple but obvious correction to match the schematic... triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From cak at dimebank.com Fri Sep 23 19:04:03 2011 From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev) Date: Fri, 23 Sep 2011 18:04:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] wiring question In-Reply-To: <75B328548B6F4A46BEE84E7B6F2EAACD@DCH6RFC1> References: <4E7CE38E.3060600@dimebank.com> <75B328548B6F4A46BEE84E7B6F2EAACD@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: <4E7D2C83.8060707@dimebank.com> Well ... it was obvious to me. But I are a engineer :-) I remember it only vaguely, but what I recall is that there was a dangling bullet connector and I was able to match up all the other wires/connectors to the schematic in the TRF TR2-4A catalog, and all I had to do to match was change out one of the single female-female bullet connectors to a double... and, voila, I had flash-to-pass... On 9/23/2011 5:15 PM, Andrew Uprichard wrote: > Simple and obvious? Sure you weren't thinking about your VW ?? > > But thanks for the input! > > Andrew Uprichard > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Kantarjiev > Sent: Friday, September 23, 2011 3:53 PM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] wiring question > > It's been about 20 years, but I remember that my 4A's light switch was not > correctly wired to implement flash-to-pass. I no longer recall why I was > digging into the light switch. I figured that this was due to some silly US > regulation at the time and made whatever was the simple but obvious > correction > to match the schematic... > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From don.hiscock at gmail.com Fri Sep 23 20:26:12 2011 From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Fri, 23 Sep 2011 21:26:12 -0500 Subject: [TR] Yippee - just got Stainless Steel bumpers for the TR2 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Harrington Group is a Vietnamese company offering stainless bumpers for a number of vintage vehicles. Easily googled and also active on eBay. I ordered stainless steel front bumper and f/r overriders for my TR3B from Harrington Group a month or so ago. Haven't mounted them yet, but did take a number of photos of the stainless pieces in comparison to my originals. In general, they're OK, but not excellent. Very similar to the originals, but also slightly different in almost every detail if one looks closely. The overriders, in particular, are more "square" at the ends. The finish on the backside ispainted a medium gloss black and shows a few runs and fingerprints in the wet paint. The exterior polish is excellent and defect free. The packaging and shipping from Vietnam to the middle of America was completely acceptable. Here's a link to my album for those who'd like to take a look at them in some detail. http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/swfpopup.mg?AlbumID=19174641&AlbumKey=xFCrx4 Regards, Don TR3B TSF202L On Fri, Sep 23, 2011 at 10:59 AM, Chris Simo wrote: > Ordered a set of stainless bumpers and over-riders from a company called > Harrington group. They make mini cars and a copy of the Isetta.... > > They also offer stainless bumpers - so I thought I'd give them a shot. No > financial interest here - just wanted to let you know they look good. I've > got them out in the rain right now to see if any rust forms.... I won't > be > installing them for another month - but I put the parts up to the car and > all looks right - over-riders look just like the orignals (but not rusty) > and they are polished to a mirror shine - you can see my flip flops in one > of the overriders in the pic below. > > http://tinyurl.com/3k964tk > > Chris > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com From thenicholls at verizon.net Fri Sep 23 20:40:22 2011 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Fri, 23 Sep 2011 21:40:22 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Yippee - just got Stainless Steel bumpers for the TR2 Message-ID: <1187856592.6582385.1316832022696.JavaMail.root@vznit170076> Bill, Was looking at those myself. Not big on the stainless steel rims for the TR6 from TRF, but for the money, they look nice. Don't know about shipping but the website is: http://www.groupharrington.com/en Craig 72 TR6 Vienna, VA Sep 23, 2011 10:05:20 PM, wbeech at flash.net wrote: Chris, they look great. Do you have the contact details? Thx, Bill Sent from mobile Bill On Sep 23, 2011, at 10:59 AM, Chris Simo wrote: > Ordered a set of stainless bumpers and over-riders from a company called > Harrington group. They make mini cars and a copy of the Isetta.... > > They also offer stainless bumpers - so I thought I'd give them a shot. No > financial interest here - just wanted to let you know they look good. I've > got them out in the rain right now to see if any rust forms.... I won't be > installing them for another month - but I put the parts up to the car and > all looks right - over-riders look just like the orignals (but not rusty) > and they are polished to a mirror shine - you can see my flip flops in one > of the overriders in the pic below. > > http://tinyurl.com/3k964tk > > Chris > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net From cliff_hansen at earthlink.net Sat Sep 24 07:42:50 2011 From: cliff_hansen at earthlink.net (Cliff Hansen) Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2011 07:42:50 -0600 (GMT-06:00) Subject: [TR] Yippee - just got Stainless Steel bumpers for the TR2 Message-ID: <32883277.1316871770897.JavaMail.root@mswamui-valley.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Do they supply the round head bolts with the bumpers? There's a note on the TR2/3 catalog item that "bolts provided are metric" Thanks, Cliff -----Original Message----- >From: Don Hiscock >Sent: Sep 23, 2011 8:26 PM >To: Chris Simo >Cc: list Triumph >Subject: Re: [TR] Yippee - just got Stainless Steel bumpers for the TR2 > >Harrington Group is a Vietnamese company offering stainless bumpers for a >number of vintage vehicles. Easily googled and also active on eBay. I >ordered stainless steel front bumper and f/r overriders for my TR3B from >Harrington Group a month or so ago. Haven't mounted them yet, but did take >a number of photos of the stainless pieces in comparison to my originals. > >In general, they're OK, but not excellent. Very similar to the originals, >but also slightly different in almost every detail if one looks closely. > The overriders, in particular, are more "square" at the ends. > >The finish on the backside ispainted a medium gloss black and shows a few >runs and fingerprints in the wet paint. The exterior polish is excellent >and defect free. The packaging and shipping from Vietnam to the middle of >America was completely acceptable. > >Here's a link to my album for those who'd like to take a look at them in >some detail. >http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/swfpopup.mg?AlbumID=19174641&AlbumKey=xFCrx4 > >Regards, > >Don >TR3B TSF202L > > > >On Fri, Sep 23, 2011 at 10:59 AM, Chris Simo wrote: > >> Ordered a set of stainless bumpers and over-riders from a company called >> Harrington group. They make mini cars and a copy of the Isetta.... >> >> They also offer stainless bumpers - so I thought I'd give them a shot. No >> financial interest here - just wanted to let you know they look good. I've >> got them out in the rain right now to see if any rust forms.... I won't >> be >> installing them for another month - but I put the parts up to the car and >> all looks right - over-riders look just like the orignals (but not rusty) >> and they are polished to a mirror shine - you can see my flip flops in one >> of the overriders in the pic below. >> >> http://tinyurl.com/3k964tk >> >> Chris >> >> >> triumphs at autox.team.net >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com > > >triumphs at autox.team.net > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cliff_hansen at earthlink.net From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Sat Sep 24 08:34:08 2011 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2011 10:34:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] Yippee - just got Stainless Steel bumpers for the TR2 In-Reply-To: <32883277.1316871770897.JavaMail.root@mswamui-valley.atl.sa.earthlink.net> References: <32883277.1316871770897.JavaMail.root@mswamui-valley.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: nope - they supply a stainless carraige bolt that is highly polished. They look similar to the ones that are on the car today..... but shiny and not rusted.... but I think it should have smaller and more round headed bolts near the end of the bumper - No telling if my hardware is original.... On Sat, Sep 24, 2011 at 9:42 AM, Cliff Hansen wrote: > Do they supply the round head bolts with the bumpers? > > There's a note on the TR2/3 catalog item that "bolts provided are metric" > > Thanks, > > Cliff > > > > -----Original Message----- > >From: Don Hiscock > >Sent: Sep 23, 2011 8:26 PM > >To: Chris Simo > >Cc: list Triumph > >Subject: Re: [TR] Yippee - just got Stainless Steel bumpers for the TR2 > > > >Harrington Group is a Vietnamese company offering stainless bumpers for a > >number of vintage vehicles. Easily googled and also active on eBay. I > >ordered stainless steel front bumper and f/r overriders for my TR3B from > >Harrington Group a month or so ago. Haven't mounted them yet, but did > take > >a number of photos of the stainless pieces in comparison to my originals. > > > >In general, they're OK, but not excellent. Very similar to the originals, > >but also slightly different in almost every detail if one looks closely. > > The overriders, in particular, are more "square" at the ends. > > > >The finish on the backside ispainted a medium gloss black and shows a few > >runs and fingerprints in the wet paint. The exterior polish is excellent > >and defect free. The packaging and shipping from Vietnam to the middle of > >America was completely acceptable. > > > >Here's a link to my album for those who'd like to take a look at them in > >some detail. > > > http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/swfpopup.mg?AlbumID=19174641&AlbumKey=xFCrx4 > > > >Regards, > > > >Don > >TR3B TSF202L > > > > > > > >On Fri, Sep 23, 2011 at 10:59 AM, Chris Simo > wrote: > > > >> Ordered a set of stainless bumpers and over-riders from a company called > >> Harrington group. They make mini cars and a copy of the Isetta.... > >> > >> They also offer stainless bumpers - so I thought I'd give them a shot. > No > >> financial interest here - just wanted to let you know they look good. > I've > >> got them out in the rain right now to see if any rust forms.... I > won't > >> be > >> installing them for another month - but I put the parts up to the car > and > >> all looks right - over-riders look just like the orignals (but not > rusty) > >> and they are polished to a mirror shine - you can see my flip flops in > one > >> of the overriders in the pic below. > >> > >> http://tinyurl.com/3k964tk > >> > >> Chris > >> > >> > >> triumphs at autox.team.net > >> > >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com > > > > > >triumphs at autox.team.net > > > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > >Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cliff_hansen at earthlink.net From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Sat Sep 24 08:34:52 2011 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2011 10:34:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] Yippee - just got Stainless Steel bumpers for the TR2 In-Reply-To: <32883277.1316871770897.JavaMail.root@mswamui-valley.atl.sa.earthlink.net> References: <32883277.1316871770897.JavaMail.root@mswamui-valley.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: sorry - yes - bolts are metric and supplied along with the rubber piece that goes between the bumperette and the bumper. On Sat, Sep 24, 2011 at 9:42 AM, Cliff Hansen wrote: > Do they supply the round head bolts with the bumpers? > > There's a note on the TR2/3 catalog item that "bolts provided are metric" > > Thanks, > > Cliff > > > > -----Original Message----- > >From: Don Hiscock > >Sent: Sep 23, 2011 8:26 PM > >To: Chris Simo > >Cc: list Triumph > >Subject: Re: [TR] Yippee - just got Stainless Steel bumpers for the TR2 > > > >Harrington Group is a Vietnamese company offering stainless bumpers for a > >number of vintage vehicles. Easily googled and also active on eBay. I > >ordered stainless steel front bumper and f/r overriders for my TR3B from > >Harrington Group a month or so ago. Haven't mounted them yet, but did > take > >a number of photos of the stainless pieces in comparison to my originals. > > > >In general, they're OK, but not excellent. Very similar to the originals, > >but also slightly different in almost every detail if one looks closely. > > The overriders, in particular, are more "square" at the ends. > > > >The finish on the backside ispainted a medium gloss black and shows a few > >runs and fingerprints in the wet paint. The exterior polish is excellent > >and defect free. The packaging and shipping from Vietnam to the middle of > >America was completely acceptable. > > > >Here's a link to my album for those who'd like to take a look at them in > >some detail. > > > http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/swfpopup.mg?AlbumID=19174641&AlbumKey=xFCrx4 > > > >Regards, > > > >Don > >TR3B TSF202L > > > > > > > >On Fri, Sep 23, 2011 at 10:59 AM, Chris Simo > wrote: > > > >> Ordered a set of stainless bumpers and over-riders from a company called > >> Harrington group. They make mini cars and a copy of the Isetta.... > >> > >> They also offer stainless bumpers - so I thought I'd give them a shot. > No > >> financial interest here - just wanted to let you know they look good. > I've > >> got them out in the rain right now to see if any rust forms.... I > won't > >> be > >> installing them for another month - but I put the parts up to the car > and > >> all looks right - over-riders look just like the orignals (but not > rusty) > >> and they are polished to a mirror shine - you can see my flip flops in > one > >> of the overriders in the pic below. > >> > >> http://tinyurl.com/3k964tk > >> > >> Chris > >> > >> > >> triumphs at autox.team.net > >> > >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com > > > > > >triumphs at autox.team.net > > > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > >Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cliff_hansen at earthlink.net From zoboherald at aol.com Sat Sep 24 08:59:58 2011 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace) Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2011 10:59:58 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] wiring question In-Reply-To: <4E7CE38E.3060600@dimebank.com> References: <4E7CE38E.3060600@dimebank.com> Message-ID: <8CE48E1C2EDEDEE-1F0C-310D1@Webmail-m105.sysops.aol.com> I vaguely remember that, at the time, some states' laws did NOT favor anything that would flash headlights (but I can't back up that memory at the moment). --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us -----Original Message----- From: Chris Kantarjiev It's been about 20 years, but I remember that my 4A's light switch was not correctly wired to implement flash-to-pass. I no longer recall why I was digging into the light switch. I figured that this was due to some silly US regulation at the time and made whatever was the simple but obvious correction to match the schematic... From don.hiscock at gmail.com Sat Sep 24 09:01:59 2011 From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Sat, 24 Sep 2011 10:01:59 -0500 Subject: [TR] Yippee - just got Stainless Steel bumpers for the TR2 In-Reply-To: <32883277.1316871770897.JavaMail.root@mswamui-valley.atl.sa.earthlink.net> References: <32883277.1316871770897.JavaMail.root@mswamui-valley.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: The TR3A bumpers (for my B) came with a pair of stainless metric M10 x 30 mm bolts + nuts, I presume to mount front overriders to bumper. No washers and no bumper bolts came with my order. Don On 9/24/11, Cliff Hansen wrote: > Do they supply the round head bolts with the bumpers? > > There's a note on the TR2/3 catalog item that "bolts provided are metric" > > Thanks, > > Cliff > > > > -----Original Message----- >>From: Don Hiscock >>Sent: Sep 23, 2011 8:26 PM >>To: Chris Simo >>Cc: list Triumph >>Subject: Re: [TR] Yippee - just got Stainless Steel bumpers for the TR2 >> >>Harrington Group is a Vietnamese company offering stainless bumpers for a >>number of vintage vehicles. Easily googled and also active on eBay. I >>ordered stainless steel front bumper and f/r overriders for my TR3B from >>Harrington Group a month or so ago. Haven't mounted them yet, but did take >>a number of photos of the stainless pieces in comparison to my originals. >> >>In general, they're OK, but not excellent. Very similar to the originals, >>but also slightly different in almost every detail if one looks closely. >> The overriders, in particular, are more "square" at the ends. >> >>The finish on the backside ispainted a medium gloss black and shows a few >>runs and fingerprints in the wet paint. The exterior polish is excellent >>and defect free. The packaging and shipping from Vietnam to the middle of >>America was completely acceptable. >> >>Here's a link to my album for those who'd like to take a look at them in >>some detail. >>http://4xdog.smugmug.com/photos/swfpopup.mg?AlbumID=19174641&AlbumKey=xFCrx4 >> >>Regards, >> >>Don >>TR3B TSF202L >> >> >> >>On Fri, Sep 23, 2011 at 10:59 AM, Chris Simo wrote: >> >>> Ordered a set of stainless bumpers and over-riders from a company called >>> Harrington group. They make mini cars and a copy of the Isetta.... >>> >>> They also offer stainless bumpers - so I thought I'd give them a shot. >>> No >>> financial interest here - just wanted to let you know they look good. >>> I've >>> got them out in the rain right now to see if any rust forms.... I won't >>> be >>> installing them for another month - but I put the parts up to the car and >>> all looks right - over-riders look just like the orignals (but not rusty) >>> and they are polished to a mirror shine - you can see my flip flops in >>> one >>> of the overriders in the pic below. >>> >>> http://tinyurl.com/3k964tk >>> >>> Chris >>> >>> >>> triumphs at autox.team.net >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com >> >> >>triumphs at autox.team.net >> >>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cliff_hansen at earthlink.net From diggle at clear.net.nz Sat Sep 24 19:05:37 2011 From: diggle at clear.net.nz (diggle at clear.net.nz) Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2011 14:05:37 +1300 Subject: [TR] Crankshaft Message-ID: <4e7e7e61.1f4.2988.22115@clear.net.nz> I had a motor that I donated to another TR owner. The motor had the oil dipstick in the wrong position so I assume that it was a Vanguard motor. I kept the crankshaft but am not sure if the crankshaft was out of that motor or not. as it was separated from the motor. I have googled cranks and TR cranks were cross drilled where as Vanguard ones were not. How do I tell what the crank is out of? Are there any photos on the web showing the differences? Jim and the soon to be engineless TR4. From trguy at cfl.rr.com Sun Sep 25 06:54:55 2011 From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen) Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2011 08:54:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] Spitfire Mk I Brake Calipers Message-ID: <01b001cc7b82$53260fb0$f9722f10$@rr.com> List: I came across a set of Early Spitfire Mark I rebuilt brake calipers. If anyone is interested in these, please email me offline. Like to find a good home for them. Thanks, Jim Henningsen Maitland, FL 62 TR4 75 TR6 From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Sun Sep 25 18:45:45 2011 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2011 20:45:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] Greenish oil Message-ID: <2163075C495A4AF1A887C353FD425DEF@DELL05639> Hello! I am again picking up my tools to continue on the rebuilding of my 1960 TR3 which I began about 8 years ago. Most of you were on the list at that time and I even recall being told by a fellow listee to not dare come to California because seperating my caliper halves might jeopardize his life! Being an amateur, my ideas have offended some. Sorry, about that! I am thankful of the advice many gave me, including the likes of Jack, Fred and others who are now racing in heaven. Even though my TR is not togather yet or roadworthy,but, I have run the professionally rebuilt engine about 40 hours since the rebuild I've changed oil several times already, but, today I drained about a quart out. It seemed green (no, not like anti-freeze) but kinda brownish, too. Is this alright? I think it was Valvoline 10w-30. I also hate to admit that I quit turning the engine over by-hand periodically several years ago! Thanks, Paul Dorsey in Athens, GA ts78316 I think! From dmb993 at earthlink.net Sun Sep 25 20:15:44 2011 From: dmb993 at earthlink.net (david brady) Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2011 22:15:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] Greenish oil In-Reply-To: <2163075C495A4AF1A887C353FD425DEF@DELL05639> References: <2163075C495A4AF1A887C353FD425DEF@DELL05639> Message-ID: <4E7FE050.1050401@earthlink.net> Hi Paul, It's a pretty simple matter to take an oil sample and have it analyzed. Blackstone Labs will do this for you. They'll be able to tell you if your oil is normal or if any of a list of contaminants are present including antifreeze. I have to ask cause I was thrown off by this at one time. When you looked at your oil, were you using a white led lamp? I've noticed that my oil looks decidedly green under white LED, but looks normal under ambient daylight. David Brady '68 TR250, CD8124L From Catpusher at aol.com Sun Sep 25 20:40:38 2011 From: Catpusher at aol.com (Catpusher at aol.com) Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2011 22:40:38 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Subject: Re Crankshaft Message-ID: <2b081.6b2eef72.3bb14026@aol.com> Jim, When the factory developed the TR2, the Vangard rear crank seal was upgraded with the crank OD inside the seal cut with a thread, and the seal also was changed. My Factory Vangard Service Instruction Manual shows two seal configurations in cross section drawings, but no mention of a change during production. The Manual is the third issue, with no date. TR Regards, Hardy Subject: [TR] Crankshaft diggle at clear.net.nz I had a motor that I donated to another TR owner. The motor had the oil dipstick in the wrong position so I assume that it was a Vanguard motor. I kept the crankshaft but am not sure if the crankshaft was out of that motor or not. as it was separated from the motor. I have googled cranks and TR cranks were cross drilled where as Vanguard ones were not. How do I tell what the crank is out of? Are there any photos on the web showing the differences? Jim and the soon to be engineless TR4. From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Mon Sep 26 02:45:56 2011 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2011 01:45:56 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Crankshaft Message-ID: <1317026756.91679.YahooMailNeo@web39422.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2011 From: diggle at clear.net.nz Subject: [TR] Crankshaft I had a motor that I donated to another TR owner. The motor had the oil dipstick in the wrong position so I assume that it was a Vanguard motor. I kept the crankshaft but am not sure if the crankshaft was out of that motor or not. as it was separated from the motor. I have googled cranks and TR cranks were cross drilled where as Vanguard ones were not. How do I tell what the crank is out of? Are there any photos on the web showing the differences? Jim and the soon to be engineless TR4. ------------------------ Hi Jim! I think 'cross drill' means that the oil channels of the crank had drilled passages from the Main Bearings position to the Connecting Rod Bearings position. There where 'set screws' with allen keyinserts in these so they could be removed to clean these passages, in mine. Check to see if you have them. My crank is out of a TR4A car. -Cosmo Kramer From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Mon Sep 26 02:45:56 2011 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2011 01:45:56 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Crankshaft Message-ID: <1317026756.91679.YahooMailNeo@web39422.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2011 From: diggle at clear.net.nz Subject: [TR] Crankshaft I had a motor that I donated to another TR owner. The motor had the oil dipstick in the wrong position so I assume that it was a Vanguard motor. I kept the crankshaft but am not sure if the crankshaft was out of that motor or not. as it was separated from the motor. I have googled cranks and TR cranks were cross drilled where as Vanguard ones were not. How do I tell what the crank is out of? Are there any photos on the web showing the differences? Jim and the soon to be engineless TR4. ------------------------ Hi Jim! I think 'cross drill' means that the oil channels of the crank had drilled passages from the Main Bearings position to the Connecting Rod Bearings position. There where 'set screws' with allen keyinserts in these so they could be removed to clean these passages, in mine. Check to see if you have them. My crank is out of a TR4A car. -Cosmo Kramer From auprichard at uprichard.net Mon Sep 26 08:53:55 2011 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2011 10:53:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] Greenish oil In-Reply-To: <2163075C495A4AF1A887C353FD425DEF@DELL05639> References: <2163075C495A4AF1A887C353FD425DEF@DELL05639> Message-ID: Dorsey is back ! Paul: I was off the list while we relocated: my first posting when I returned was "what about Paul Dorsey? !! Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul Dorsey Sent: Sunday, September 25, 2011 8:46 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Greenish oil Hello! I am again picking up my tools to continue on the rebuilding of my 1960 TR3 which I began about 8 years ago. Most of you were on the list at that time and I even recall being told by a fellow listee to not dare come to California because seperating my caliper halves might jeopardize his life! Being an amateur, my ideas have offended some. Sorry, about that! I am thankful of the advice many gave me, including the likes of Jack, Fred and others who are now racing in heaven. Even though my TR is not togather yet or roadworthy,but, I have run the professionally rebuilt engine about 40 hours since the rebuild I've changed oil several times already, but, today I drained about a quart out. It seemed green (no, not like anti-freeze) but kinda brownish, too. Is this alright? I think it was Valvoline 10w-30. I also hate to admit that I quit turning the engine over by-hand periodically several years ago! Thanks, Paul Dorsey in Athens, GA ts78316 I think! triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Sep 26 12:56:03 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2011 11:56:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] Greenish oil In-Reply-To: <2163075C495A4AF1A887C353FD425DEF@DELL05639> References: <2163075C495A4AF1A887C353FD425DEF@DELL05639> Message-ID: <04dd01cc7c7d$f19fa6f0$d4def4d0$@rr.com> > today I drained about a quart out. It > seemed green (no, not like anti-freeze) but kinda brownish, too. Paul, is there any chance you added a ZDDP or break-in additive? Some of them are green. Some oils are also greenish out of the bottle, but AFAIK even Valvoline's "green" oil is actually an amber color. -- Randall From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Tue Sep 27 06:54:17 2011 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2011 08:54:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] Greenish oil now 50weight? References: <2163075C495A4AF1A887C353FD425DEF@DELL05639> <04dd01cc7c7d$f19fa6f0$d4def4d0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <4F26795EE3B548D7B1D37D7F44923C55@DELL05639> That's it. ZDDP is the reason (i forgot that i added it 2 years ago). Now, what does the list think of running Valvoline 50 weight oil? Paul ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "'Paul Dorsey'" ; Sent: Monday, September 26, 2011 2:56 PM Subject: RE: [TR] Greenish oil >> today I drained about a quart out. It >> seemed green (no, not like anti-freeze) but kinda brownish, too. > > Paul, is there any chance you added a ZDDP or break-in additive? Some of > them are green. > > Some oils are also greenish out of the bottle, but AFAIK even Valvoline's > "green" oil is actually an amber color. > > -- Randall > > > > ----- > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 10.0.1410 / Virus Database: 1520/3920 - Release Date: 09/26/11 From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 27 07:58:01 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2011 06:58:01 -0700 Subject: [TR] Greenish oil now 50weight? In-Reply-To: <4F26795EE3B548D7B1D37D7F44923C55@DELL05639> References: <2163075C495A4AF1A887C353FD425DEF@DELL05639> <04dd01cc7c7d$f19fa6f0$d4def4d0$@rr.com> <4F26795EE3B548D7B1D37D7F44923C55@DELL05639> Message-ID: <0c0f01cc7d1d$78eddd80$0301a8c0@randall> > what does the list think of running Valvoline 50 weight oil? Straight 50 weight is too thick when it's cold, IMO, particularly with a freshly rebuilt motor. Back when I lived in a cooler climate, I found that the oil pressure would go too high (peg the gauge) even with 40 weight. Pressure too high puts extra strain on the pump drive, and makes leaks around the filter head more likely. It's also apt to open the bypass valve, and feed the engine with unfiltered oil. But 20W50 (which acts like 20 weight when it is cold) might be OK. -- Randall From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Tue Sep 27 09:05:53 2011 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2011 08:05:53 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Greenish oil now 50weight? In-Reply-To: <4F26795EE3B548D7B1D37D7F44923C55@DELL05639> References: <2163075C495A4AF1A887C353FD425DEF@DELL05639> <04dd01cc7c7d$f19fa6f0$d4def4d0$@rr.com> <4F26795EE3B548D7B1D37D7F44923C55@DELL05639> Message-ID: <1317135953.72348.YahooMailNeo@web120207.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> 50 weight is the recommended viscosity for our motors. valvoline racing oil, straight 50 weight is the old oil with all the nasty bits in it, like ZDDP. it does state on the can that its good for old flat tappet engines. so far i have no problems with it, but i have only been running it for 2 years-5 oil changes-6 or 7 thousand miles. ill let you know how it lasts in a decade or 2! Frank From: Paul Dorsey To: Randall ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2011 5:54 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Greenish oil now 50weight? That's it. ZDDP is the reason (i forgot that i added it 2 years ago). Now, what does the list think of running Valvoline 50 weight oil? Paul ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "'Paul Dorsey'" ; Sent: Monday, September 26, 2011 2:56 PM Subject: RE: [TR] Greenish oil >> today I drained about a quart out. It >> seemed green (no, not like anti-freeze) but kinda brownish, too. > > Paul, is there any chance you added a ZDDP or break-in additive? Some of > them are green. > > Some oils are also greenish out of the bottle, but AFAIK even Valvoline's > "green" oil is actually an amber color. > > -- Randall > > > > ----- > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 10.0.1410 / Virus Database: 1520/3920 - Release Date: 09/26/11 triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From wbeech at flash.net Tue Sep 27 09:37:20 2011 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2011 10:37:20 -0500 Subject: [TR] Greenish oil now 50weight? In-Reply-To: <4F26795EE3B548D7B1D37D7F44923C55@DELL05639> References: <2163075C495A4AF1A887C353FD425DEF@DELL05639><04dd01cc7c7d$f19fa6f0$d4def4d0$@rr.com> <4F26795EE3B548D7B1D37D7F44923C55@DELL05639> Message-ID: I would think that straight 50W would be too heavy, how about Valvoline VR-1 20-50 conventional oil that contains ZDDP? BTW, good to see you back on this list! Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul Dorsey Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2011 7:54 AM To: Randall; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Greenish oil now 50weight? That's it. ZDDP is the reason (i forgot that i added it 2 years ago). Now, what does the list think of running Valvoline 50 weight oil? Paul ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "'Paul Dorsey'" ; Sent: Monday, September 26, 2011 2:56 PM Subject: RE: [TR] Greenish oil >> today I drained about a quart out. It >> seemed green (no, not like anti-freeze) but kinda brownish, too. > > Paul, is there any chance you added a ZDDP or break-in additive? Some of > them are green. > > Some oils are also greenish out of the bottle, but AFAIK even Valvoline's > "green" oil is actually an amber color. > > -- Randall > > > > ----- > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 10.0.1410 / Virus Database: 1520/3920 - Release Date: 09/26/11 triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From sumton at sbcglobal.net Tue Sep 27 10:26:03 2011 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2011 11:26:03 -0500 Subject: [TR] Greenish oil now 50weight? In-Reply-To: <0c0f01cc7d1d$78eddd80$0301a8c0@randall> References: <2163075C495A4AF1A887C353FD425DEF@DELL05639><04dd01cc7c7d$f19fa6f0$d4def4d0$@rr.com><4F26795EE3B548D7B1D37D7F44923C55@DELL05639> <0c0f01cc7d1d$78eddd80$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: been running 20/50 in all my old cars for years . . . but I'm in Dallas where cold is occasional and not that cold -------------------------------------------------- From: "Randall" Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2011 8:58 AM To: Subject: Re: [TR] Greenish oil now 50weight? >> what does the list think of running Valvoline 50 weight oil? > > Straight 50 weight is too thick when it's cold, IMO, particularly with a > freshly rebuilt motor. Back when I lived in a cooler climate, I found > that > the oil pressure would go too high (peg the gauge) even with 40 weight. > Pressure too high puts extra strain on the pump drive, and makes leaks > around the filter head more likely. It's also apt to open the bypass > valve, > and feed the engine with unfiltered oil. > > But 20W50 (which acts like 20 weight when it is cold) might be OK. > > -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 27 11:24:05 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2011 10:24:05 -0700 Subject: [TR] Greenish oil now 50weight? In-Reply-To: <1317135953.72348.YahooMailNeo@web120207.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <2163075C495A4AF1A887C353FD425DEF@DELL05639> <04dd01cc7c7d$f19fa6f0$d4def4d0$@rr.com> <4F26795EE3B548D7B1D37D7F44923C55@DELL05639> <1317135953.72348.YahooMailNeo@web120207.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <00fc01cc7d3a$42fca310$c8f5e930$@rr.com> > 50 weight is the recommended viscosity for our motors. By who? The factory manuals said 40 weight or 20W40 (Practical Hints 6th ed), only if temperatures were above 70F. > straight 50 weight is the old oil with all the nasty bits in it, like > ZDDP. Not necessarily. Viscosity grade says nothing about the additive package. You can buy non-detergent 50 weight (which also lacks the other additives, like ZDDP). http://www.lubriplate.com/products/auto-and-marine/non-detergent-motor-oil.h tml > no problems with it, but i have only been running it for 2 years-5 oil > changes-6 or 7 thousand miles. Of course, it might be Paul lives where it is somewhat cooler than Temecula (projected high today 94F). -- Randall From fogbro1 at comcast.net Tue Sep 27 14:44:23 2011 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2011 20:44:23 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Greenish oil now 50weight? In-Reply-To: <00fc01cc7d3a$42fca310$c8f5e930$@rr.com> Message-ID: <1098405562.112959.1317156263031.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Randall, Wasn't the original factory recommendation straight 30wt, summer, straight 20wt winter?B ( although I'm presently using Brad-Penn 20W50 in the TR3). Interesting observation on stressing the oil pump with heavier oils. Never considered that one. Ed Woods ----- Original Message ----- From terryrs at comcast.net Tue Sep 27 15:14:46 2011 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2011 21:14:46 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Greenish oil In-Reply-To: <2163075C495A4AF1A887C353FD425DEF@DELL05639> Message-ID: <1999633593.1355077.1317158086193.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> >Being an amateur, my ideas have offended some. Sorry, about that! As one who has read the bulk of your posts over the years, Paul, I can't remember one as being offensive. On the contrary, you often provoked thoughtful and exciting debates. Let me add to your thanks to the skillful mechanics and--well frankly, to my English major mind, other-worldly--engineers on the List who helped me keep my '3A on the road the past 10 years. But let me say also that when I coached 8th grade basketball 30 years ago, at the end of the year I gave the "Ironman Award" not to the speedy guard or the big forward who scored all our points, but to the smallest kid on the team who rode the bench the entire season. Courage isn't about looking like a hero, but acting like one. Stay in touch. ...And ask someone else about green oil! Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 27 18:09:54 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2011 17:09:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] Greenish oil now 50weight? In-Reply-To: <1098405562.112959.1317156263031.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <00fc01cc7d3a$42fca310$c8f5e930$@rr.com> <1098405562.112959.1317156263031.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <014801cc7d72$f3ab5f20$db021d60$@rr.com> > Wasn't the original factory recommendation straight 30wt, summer, > straight 20wt winter? ( although I'm presently using Brad-Penn 20W50 in > the TR3). The owner's handbook in 'The Bentley' (which was 2nd edition IIRC) has: Over 70F/20C : 40 weight 40 to 70F/0 to 20C : 30 weight 10 to 40F/-10 to 0C: 20 weight -10 to 10F/-25 to -10C : 10 weight Below -10F/-25C : 5 weight (Were those guys optimists or what?!) The owner's handbook was later renamed to "Practical Hints for the Maintenance of the Triumph T.R.3", and the 6th edition (which I believe was published around 1960) had a similar chart except that 20W40 was allowed for the highest temperature range, and 10W30 was allowed for all others. (and the 5 weight line was deleted) I also use 20W50 (Valvoline full synthetic), but I haven't actually done a full engine rebuild since around 1975 and so my oil pressure never goes too high. -- Randall From n197tr4 at cs.com Tue Sep 27 19:23:08 2011 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2011 21:23:08 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] TR3A REAR UPHOLSTERED PANEL PRISTINE CONDITION available read or delete Message-ID: <8CE4B944FE5415D-1690-B5A84@webmail-d053.sysops.aol.com> Several years ago I put in the optional 'jump seat' and was left with an excellent rear panel. It has the backing in wood instead of pressed paper. It's time to let some put it to use in their project..... If interested, contact me: n197tr4 at cs.com Thanks.... From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Tue Sep 27 20:53:36 2011 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2011 19:53:36 -0700 Subject: [TR] Greenish oil In-Reply-To: <1999633593.1355077.1317158086193.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <2163075C495A4AF1A887C353FD425DEF@DELL05639> <1999633593.1355077.1317158086193.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Welcome back Paul! On the occasions when I have had coolant get into the oil the result was cocoa brown, never greenish even when the coolany in question was green. Hopefully this is something harmless or, as suggested, a trick of the light. Geo From agraham at execulink.com Wed Sep 28 07:51:09 2011 From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham) Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2011 09:51:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] Gas tank sending unit - wiring. Message-ID: <4E83264D.70406@execulink.com> Hello List: Trouble shooting some wiring issues on the TR2 project and have a question about the wiring associated with the tank sending unit. Pretty simple wiring, but you know how this can work out. My new harness has only one green/black wire for the unit and I have installed this on the center screw connection on the sending unit. Should there be another black ground wire from one of the mounting screws going to a ground point somewhere on the body? The wiring diagram I have (TR2/3) shows both a green and a green/black wire serving the sending unit. I'm a little confused. Thanks for any help with this. Angelo Graham From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Sep 28 10:14:06 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2011 09:14:06 -0700 Subject: [TR] Gas tank sending unit - wiring. In-Reply-To: <4E83264D.70406@execulink.com> References: <4E83264D.70406@execulink.com> Message-ID: <008701cc7df9$a5e99860$0301a8c0@randall> > Should there be another black ground wire from one of the mounting > screws going to a ground point somewhere on the body? I don't believe the factory installed a ground wire. However, I do think it's a good thing to have. I made up a suitable wire to attach to one of the tank mounting bolts and the ground stud on the sender. Since this area gets hidden by the panels, even a concours judge couldn't object. > The wiring diagram I have (TR2/3) shows both a green and a > green/black > wire serving the sending unit. That's curious. Where did you find that diagram? All of the ones I've seen show only the GB to the tank sender. -- Randall From auprichard at uprichard.net Wed Sep 28 10:35:09 2011 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2011 12:35:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] Gas tank sending unit - wiring. In-Reply-To: <4E83264D.70406@execulink.com> References: <4E83264D.70406@execulink.com> Message-ID: <116AA819F9CC45169B406A2621611B46@DCH6RFC1> >From one wiring confusee to another: My TR3 has a single green/black and works fine. Now back to the harness on my TR250........... Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Angelo Graham Sent: Wednesday, September 28, 2011 9:51 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Gas tank sending unit - wiring. Hello List: Trouble shooting some wiring issues on the TR2 project and have a question about the wiring associated with the tank sending unit. Pretty simple wiring, but you know how this can work out. My new harness has only one green/black wire for the unit and I have installed this on the center screw connection on the sending unit. Should there be another black ground wire from one of the mounting screws going to a ground point somewhere on the body? The wiring diagram I have (TR2/3) shows both a green and a green/black wire serving the sending unit. I'm a little confused. Thanks for any help with this. Angelo Graham triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From wbeech at flash.net Wed Sep 28 12:26:01 2011 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2011 13:26:01 -0500 Subject: [TR] Gas tank sending unit - wiring. In-Reply-To: <4E83264D.70406@execulink.com> References: <4E83264D.70406@execulink.com> Message-ID: <64532EE5E87D470FA46F94C5CCF449B2@bboffice> In addition to the Green/Black to the gauge, I have a black wire going to ground from a spade connector on the sending unit. Maybe this was a change with the TR3A? Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Angelo Graham Sent: Wednesday, September 28, 2011 8:51 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Gas tank sending unit - wiring. Hello List: Trouble shooting some wiring issues on the TR2 project and have a question about the wiring associated with the tank sending unit. Pretty simple wiring, but you know how this can work out. My new harness has only one green/black wire for the unit and I have installed this on the center screw connection on the sending unit. Should there be another black ground wire from one of the mounting screws going to a ground point somewhere on the body? The wiring diagram I have (TR2/3) shows both a green and a green/black wire serving the sending unit. I'm a little confused. Thanks for any help with this. Angelo Graham triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From tr6parts at charter.net Wed Sep 28 15:50:33 2011 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore) Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2011 17:50:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] GT6 intake compatability References: <02cc01cc65fd$97408120$0301a8c0@randall> <1314637071.88386.YahooMailNeo@web88608.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8E3C84BACC48497696CDA5249A0EC485@Alan> I had someone inquire if an early TR6 intake would work on a GT6. I tend to think not, does anyone know for sure? Thanks, Al From jdemuth at ties2.net Wed Sep 28 16:04:06 2011 From: jdemuth at ties2.net (Joe DeMuth) Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2011 17:04:06 -0500 Subject: [TR] Oil weight Message-ID: I remember one winter driving from Minneapolis to Pipestone, MN in the TR to visit my mom. It was cold as a brass t#t on a tin witch, as an uncle used to say. Straight 30 weight oil in the pan. No problems getting there, but to start the car a week later for the return trip, I had to build a charcoal fire under the pan for four hours. After that, she fired right up, and away to the New Years Eve Party in New Ulm. Oh, to be young and foolish again. From cartr4a at ameritech.net Wed Sep 28 17:05:32 2011 From: cartr4a at ameritech.net (Jim) Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2011 16:05:32 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] GT6 intake compatability In-Reply-To: <8E3C84BACC48497696CDA5249A0EC485@Alan> Message-ID: <1317251132.86207.YahooMailClassic@web80203.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I don't think so. IIRC, the TR6 intake is at a different angle and the carbs wouldn't fit under the bonnet. Jim --- On Wed, 9/28/11, Al Salvatore wrote: From: Al Salvatore Subject: [TR] GT6 intake compatability To: "Triumph list" Date: Wednesday, September 28, 2011, 4:50 PM I had someone inquire if an early TR6 intake would work on a GT6. I tend to think not, does anyone know for sure? Thanks, Al From wbeech at flash.net Wed Sep 28 17:17:30 2011 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2011 18:17:30 -0500 Subject: [TR] 1958 Texas Plate Message-ID: <32DCA0F7284B419B9C80CA766C87303F@bboffice> Might anyone have a 1958 Texas license plate that they would part with for a reasonable price. I have a 1968 "Hemisfair" plate that I would be willing to trade if you want it. TIA, Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" From jimmuller at rcn.com Wed Sep 28 17:28:46 2011 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2011 19:28:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] GT6 intake compatability In-Reply-To: <8E3C84BACC48497696CDA5249A0EC485@Alan> Message-ID: <4E83756E.31041.534B71C@localhost> On 28 Sep 2011 at 17:50, Al Salvatore wrote: > I had someone inquire if an early TR6 intake would work on a GT6. > > I tend to think not, does anyone know for sure? The early GT6 intake manifolds don't even fit the Mk2 or Mk3 heads. Don't know about TR6. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Wed Sep 28 21:32:53 2011 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2011 20:32:53 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] glueing vinyl Message-ID: <1317267173.42102.YahooMailNeo@web65313.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Some time ago various people mentioned a vendor or person who could glue vinyl to my cockpit trim pieces. I completed the more simple pieces ok but do not want to attempt the pieces with really sharp curves (upper dash piece and elbow area). I wasn't paying attention at that time so if someone would be kind enough to re-post that information I would be eternally grateful! thanks gary n. From mark at bradakis.com Wed Sep 28 23:11:41 2011 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2011 23:11:41 -0600 Subject: [TR] GT6 intake compatability In-Reply-To: <8E3C84BACC48497696CDA5249A0EC485@Alan> References: <02cc01cc65fd$97408120$0301a8c0@randall> <1314637071.88386.YahooMailNeo@web88608.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> <8E3C84BACC48497696CDA5249A0EC485@Alan> Message-ID: <4E83FE0D.5000109@bradakis.com> Al Salvatore wrote: > I had someone inquire if an early TR6 intake would work on a GT6. > > I tend to think not, does anyone know for sure? No. If you are talking GT6 Mark 1, totally different port arrangement. If GT6 Mark 2 or 3, again, no. Close but no cigar. The early TR6 intakes have the narrower intake port spacing. The later TR6 intakes have the same intake port spacing as the GT6 heads so they would match. Sort of. If you are talking about putting a TR6 intake and bigger carbs on a GT6 there would be some major issues. You'd never get it under the bonnet, very limited clearance. Have you ever seen a GT6 that had a little dimple pushed up at the front of the bonnet bulge? It is from folks putting a screw drive hose clamp on the thermostat housing, the screw at the top of the clamp. Doesn't work, space is so tight under there. So the simple answer is no, a TR6 intake will not work on a GT6. mjb. From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Thu Sep 29 07:35:50 2011 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2011 09:35:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] greenish oil now ZDDP, dripping chambers Message-ID: <4BE1F4675A8C416495E8697DE6BE9E25@DELL05639> The reason, in the first place. for me draining a small amount of my oil was to see if there was any water maybe in the first amount drained,but, there wasn't (and then my shaking hands didn't get the drain plug back into the hole quick enough). As correctly guessed by Randall, I had put ZDDP in the engine several years ago, but then I forgot about it, which accounts for the green color. My plans now are to concentrate on the restoration such that the car will be on the road before the next oil change. The engine has been babied since the professional restoration (albeit, an ugly baby!) From here on out, I plan to use Valvoline 20w-50. For summer driving, I may use 10w-30. I don't know if Valvoline Racing Oil (VR1) will be within my price range, but I would prefer it. I don't know if extra ZDDP will be required, but, I have already purchased this. I doubt the Valvoline 20w-50 plus a little plastic bottle from Moss of ZDDP will be too much ZDDP??? Here is an article which relates to ZDDDP: http://www.valvoline.com/faqs/motor-oil/racing-oil/ Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil: Contains 75% higher zinc than SM motor oil with a balanced additive package designed to work in both racing and street-legal applications. This product will protect older style push-rod and flat tappet engines. Valvoline provides this product in both multi and mono viscosity grades: 20w50, straight 50, 10w30, straight 30, straight 40, and straight 60. I bought a new marine battery (opening a new can of worms?) from Walmart for only $58.00. It had a CCA of 625! Can u guess my biggest concern about this? Then I manually turned the engine over with a wrench. And with everything up to snuff (having drained the radiator fluid and flushed it with pure water) it started right up. I forgot to say that I pulled out each plug and squirted WD40 in each cylinder. Even though the engine only ran for like 2 minutes, (it had great oil pressure immediatly) The temp got to 190. I noticewd one or both carbs leaked fuel below the float chambers. With a small wrench, I didn't want to overtighten their attachment bolts. I wonder what the torque is for the float chamber attachment bolts for a SU HS6 is?? But, they seemed snug. Any suggestions? Thanks greatly, Paul Dorsey 60 tr3 ts78316 From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Thu Sep 29 09:26:07 2011 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2011 15:26:07 +0000 Subject: [TR] Janis. Message-ID: About three years ago I mentioned that I had been given a disc of unreleased Janis Joplin material. This material is a live recording of Janis during the period when she was playing folk music at San Francisco coffee houses. I think it was from this list that someone asked for a copy of the disk. I now have learned how to rip songs and I have a zip file of the music I can send. I anyone would like the zip copy please let me know. Best regards, Tom From wayne at motorcarriage.com Thu Sep 29 11:10:08 2011 From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee) Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2011 13:10:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] Janis. References: Message-ID: Hi Tom, I for one would very much like to get a copy of the zip file you describe. That's very generous of you. Thanks for the offer. Cheers, Wayne Lee Douglas, MA -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of tom white Sent: Thursday, September 29, 2011 11:26 AM To: 9issa at justbrits.com; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Janis. About three years ago I mentioned that I had been given a disc of unreleased Janis Joplin material. This material is a live recording of Janis during the period when she was playing folk music at San Francisco coffee houses. I think it was from this list that someone asked for a copy of the disk. I now have learned how to rip songs and I have a zip file of the music I can send. I anyone would like the zip copy please let me know. Best regards, Tom triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wayne at motorcarriage.com ======= Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found. (Email Guard: 7.0.0.27, Virus/Spyware Database: 6.18420) http://www.pctools.com/ ======= ======= Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found. (Email Guard: 7.0.0.27, Virus/Spyware Database: 6.18420) http://www.pctools.com/ ======= From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Thu Sep 29 12:53:15 2011 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2011 11:53:15 -0700 Subject: [TR] greenish oil now ZDDP, dripping chambers In-Reply-To: <4BE1F4675A8C416495E8697DE6BE9E25@DELL05639> References: <4BE1F4675A8C416495E8697DE6BE9E25@DELL05639> Message-ID: On Thu, Sep 29, 2011 at 6:35 AM, Paul Dorsey wrote: > ...From here on out, > I plan to use Valvoline 20w-50. For summer driving, I may use 10w-30. If anything, I'd think you'd want it the other way 'round (thicker stuff in summer). > ...I noticewd one or both carbs leaked fuel below the float chambers. With > a > small wrench, I didn't want to overtighten their attachment bolts. I wonder > what the torque is for the float chamber attachment bolts for a SU HS6 is?? > But, they seemed snug. Snug should be enough I think. Perhaps a new gasket would help, a thin coat of Hylomar on the gasket probably wouldn't hurt either. If the mating surfaces are clean & undamaged the gasket should work -- but you might also take a look at the fuel level in there to be sure it isn't too high. You can lift the float out with a bit of 'L' shaped wire and give it a shake -- sometimes they get some fuel in them from a pinhole leak and that can cause them to not function properly. Geo From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Sep 29 13:09:56 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2011 12:09:56 -0700 Subject: [TR] greenish oil now ZDDP, dripping chambers In-Reply-To: <4BE1F4675A8C416495E8697DE6BE9E25@DELL05639> References: <4BE1F4675A8C416495E8697DE6BE9E25@DELL05639> Message-ID: <040a01cc7edb$610cd3f0$23267bd0$@rr.com> > From here on out, > I plan to use Valvoline 20w-50. For summer driving, I may use 10w-30. Isn't that backwards, Paul? 20W50 would be for hot weather, 10W30 when it's cooler. (Although I run 20W50 year-round and it does OK even in occasional freezing temps.) > I doubt the Valvoline 20w-50 plus a little > plastic > bottle from Moss of ZDDP will be too much ZDDP??? Personally, I have a strong bias in favor of not using aftermarket additives. Composing a motor oil additive package is a complex process involving a careful balance of dozens of chemicals. People literally get advanced degrees in chemistry in order to do this! And you are paying for that expertise when you buy a premium oil (like Valvoline). The idea that some "one size fits all" mixture will improve the carefully crafted balance seems unlikely to me. Using an aftermarket additive is akin to dumping pepper on an expensive restaurant meal before tasting it. > It had a CCA of 625! Can u guess my biggest concern > about this? Suppose you tell us. Pretty much all modern batteries have much higher CCA ratings than older ones, due to improvements in metal refining and such. Having a higher CCA rating is not a problem, but CCA is not the same thing as capacity. Does it have an AH or RC rating? > I wonder > what the torque is for the float chamber attachment bolts for a SU HS6 > is?? > But, they seemed snug. Any suggestions? Are these HS6, or H6 carbs? On the HS6, the float chamber bolts cannot leak (unless the chamber falls off). I'm guessing you have H6 carbs instead, and that it's time (already) for new float chamber gaskets. -- Randall From tcheat2002 at yahoo.com Thu Sep 29 12:57:26 2011 From: tcheat2002 at yahoo.com (Tim Cheatham) Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2011 13:57:26 -0500 Subject: [TR] Janis. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Tom, Thank you for your kind offer I would like a copy as well. Sent from my iPhone On Sep 29, 2011, at 12:10 PM, "Wayne Lee" wrote: > Hi Tom, > > I for one would very much like to get a copy of the zip file you describe. > That's very generous of you. Thanks for the offer. > > Cheers, > Wayne Lee > Douglas, MA > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of tom white > Sent: Thursday, September 29, 2011 11:26 AM > To: 9issa at justbrits.com; triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] Janis. > > About three years ago I mentioned that I had been given a disc of unreleased > Janis Joplin material. This material is a live recording of Janis during > the > period when she was playing folk music at San Francisco coffee houses. > > I think it was from this list that someone asked for a copy of the disk. I > now have learned how to rip songs and I have a zip file of the music I can > send. > > I anyone would like the zip copy please let me know. > > Best regards, > > Tom > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wayne at motorcarriage.com > > > > > ======= > Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found. > (Email Guard: 7.0.0.27, Virus/Spyware Database: 6.18420) > http://www.pctools.com/ > ======= > > > > > > ======= > Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found. > (Email Guard: 7.0.0.27, Virus/Spyware Database: 6.18420) > http://www.pctools.com/ > ======= > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tcheat2002 at yahoo.com From sumton at sbcglobal.net Thu Sep 29 17:59:22 2011 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2011 18:59:22 -0500 Subject: [TR] Janis. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: please send it to me also ------------------------------------------------- > Tom, > > Thank you for your kind offer I would like a copy as well. From bdhasl at comcast.net Thu Sep 29 20:23:31 2011 From: bdhasl at comcast.net (Bill Haslebacher) Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2011 19:23:31 -0700 Subject: [TR] Janis. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <001101cc7f17$f2cf50b0$d86df210$@comcast.net> Please sent to me also. Bill Haslebacher Bellevue, WA 98005 Phone: 206.383.2210 Email: bdhasl at comcast.net 1969 TR6 1974 TR6 (for sale) -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of oliver Sent: Thursday, September 29, 2011 4:59 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Janis. please send it to me also ------------------------------------------------- > Tom, > > Thank you for your kind offer I would like a copy as well. triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/bdhasl at comcast.net From 59tr3driver at gmail.com Thu Sep 29 20:57:59 2011 From: 59tr3driver at gmail.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2011 19:57:59 -0700 Subject: [TR] FW: OMG !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Message-ID: <030501cc7f1c$c46be940$0301a8c0@randall> I'm forwarding this for a friend, who wishes to remain anonymous. It's actually kind of interesting, IMO. But then I'm known to have a weakness for cars with Mayflower parts -----Original Message----- Whilst this 'car' is based on a 1951 Triumph............ http://tinyurl.com/675mroc * even I could NOT do something like it to an Edsel ! ! ! ! ! There is a link to one of the "body" men a tad below the info area. Take it if you dare ! ! ! Anon (don't want 'credit' for THIS post ) From mdporter at dfn.com Thu Sep 29 22:45:08 2011 From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter) Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2011 22:45:08 -0600 Subject: [TR] FW: OMG !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! In-Reply-To: <030501cc7f1c$c46be940$0301a8c0@randall> References: <030501cc7f1c$c46be940$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <4E854954.5060809@dfn.com> On 9/29/2011 8:57 PM, Randall wrote: > I'm forwarding this for a friend, who wishes to remain anonymous. It's > actually kind of interesting, IMO. > > But then I'm known to have a weakness for cars with Mayflower parts > > While Baron Margo seems to have limited skills, the people who started the car, the Blastolene Brothers, seem to have an odd and eccentric retro, Art Deco streak to their work, sort of minorly influenced by Big Daddy Roth: http://www.blastolene.com/Blastolene_Cars.htm There's some excellent workmanship in some of these cars. Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From pebarnes71 at gmail.com Fri Sep 30 00:04:16 2011 From: pebarnes71 at gmail.com (Philip Barnes) Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2011 14:04:16 +0800 Subject: [TR] FW: OMG !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! In-Reply-To: <030501cc7f1c$c46be940$0301a8c0@randall> References: <030501cc7f1c$c46be940$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: The concept of "steampunk" comes to mind. -- Phil Barnes -- '71 TR6 since 1977 On Fri, Sep 30, 2011 at 10:57 AM, Randall <59tr3driver at gmail.com> wrote: > I'm forwarding this for a friend, who wishes to remain anonymous. It's > actually kind of interesting, IMO. > > But then I'm known to have a weakness for cars with Mayflower parts > > -----Original Message----- > > > Whilst this 'car' is based on a 1951 Triumph............ From tony at tonydrews.com Fri Sep 30 01:08:53 2011 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2011 02:08:53 -0500 Subject: [TR] greenish oil now ZDDP, dripping chambers In-Reply-To: <4BE1F4675A8C416495E8697DE6BE9E25@DELL05639> References: <4BE1F4675A8C416495E8697DE6BE9E25@DELL05639> Message-ID: <20110930070914.71689187645@autox.team.net> On the oil, Valvoline VR-1 isn't very expensive. The non-synthetic is locally available for under $5 / qt. I have to get a store to order the synthetic for me, but even that's not too bad. Compared to a Brad Penn or a Redline it's 1/2 to 1/3 of the price, and my (race) motors look great on rebuild. Tony At 08:35 AM 9/29/2011, Paul Dorsey wrote: >The reason, in the first place. for me draining a small amount of my oil was >to see if there was any water maybe in the first amount drained,but, there >wasn't (and then my shaking hands didn't get the drain plug back into the hole >quick enough). As correctly guessed by Randall, I had put ZDDP in the engine >several years ago, but then I forgot about it, which accounts for the green >color. My plans now are to concentrate on the restoration such that the car >will be on the road before the next oil change. The engine has been babied >since the professional restoration (albeit, an ugly baby!) From here on out, >I plan to use Valvoline 20w-50. For summer driving, I may use 10w-30. I >don't know if Valvoline Racing Oil (VR1) will be within my price range, but I >would prefer it. I don't know if extra ZDDP will be required, but, I have >already purchased this. I doubt the Valvoline 20w-50 plus a little plastic >bottle from Moss of ZDDP will be too much ZDDP??? Here is an article which >relates to ZDDDP: > >http://www.valvoline.com/faqs/motor-oil/racing-oil/ >Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil: Contains 75% higher zinc than SM motor oil with a >balanced additive package designed to work in both racing and street-legal >applications. This product will protect older style push-rod and flat tappet >engines. Valvoline provides this product in both multi and mono viscosity >grades: 20w50, straight 50, 10w30, straight 30, straight 40, and straight 60. > >I bought a new marine battery (opening a new can of worms?) from Walmart for >only $58.00. It had a CCA of 625! Can u guess my biggest concern about >this? > >Then I manually turned the engine over with a wrench. And with everything up >to snuff (having drained the radiator fluid and flushed it with pure water) it >started right up. I forgot to say that I pulled out each plug and squirted >WD40 in each cylinder. Even though the engine only ran for like 2 minutes, (it >had great oil pressure immediatly) The temp got to 190. > >I noticewd one or both carbs leaked fuel below the float chambers. With a >small wrench, I didn't want to overtighten their attachment bolts. I wonder >what the torque is for the float chamber attachment bolts for a SU HS6 is?? >But, they seemed snug. Any suggestions? > > >Thanks greatly, Paul Dorsey >60 tr3 ts78316 > > >triumphs at autox.team.net > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk Fri Sep 30 04:42:44 2011 From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2011 11:42:44 +0100 (BST) Subject: [TR] greenish oil now ZDDP, dripping chambers In-Reply-To: <4BE1F4675A8C416495E8697DE6BE9E25@DELL05639> References: <4BE1F4675A8C416495E8697DE6BE9E25@DELL05639> Message-ID: <1317379364.49898.YahooMailNeo@web28310.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> I've absolutely no axe to grind about Valvoline products as they were used for about half the total journey on the Triumph Trans-America Stag in 2009. From the start in Florida until we reached about the near halfway point in Tennessee, the car was running Valvoline 20W/50 with added ZDDP. At the next change, I was recommended to switch to Valvoline VR1 Racing 40. On reaching Colorado, where we did an equivalent 10,000 mile service, the cam chambers and oil filter were full of an odious black sludge. Up to that point, I hadn't been entirely satisfied with the sound coming from the engine. Having driven many Stags over the years, it lacked that turbine-like smoothness and can best be described as 'jangly' and 'loose.' Detailed checks revealed we weren't doing it any damage but decided at Colorado to revert to Valvoline 20W/50 with something called 'Mystery Oil' to clean out the filth and to do another oil and filter change on reaching Minneapolis. The filth that came out at that change was unbelieveable! From Minneapolis onwards to the finish in California, the car was running Castrol Classic 20W/50 (at my insistence) with ZDDP. It's clear the blending process for Castrol in the US and Europe is different as in Europe we don't have to add zinc - and Castrol certainly don't use castor oil now - except in Racing 40 and that's only for the smell it leaves on the exhaust. But the point I want to make is that from Minneapolis onwards, the sound from the engine was utterly different and just like every Stag I've ever driven. Smooth, syrupy and just as it should be. I'm not making any criticism of Valvoline products but I'm left with the impression that they're probably better suited to more modern engines and perhaps Valvoline VR1 Racing isn't the ideal lube diet for an older designed engine? If nothing else, that experience confirmed to me yet again that the engines in our cars are far better suited to a 20W/50 mineral oil of the 'classic' blend than anything else available. But then, as I doubt I'll ever do a trip of that length again, the likelihood of me using Valvoline is remote. Just my two pence worth Jonmac From guy at genfiniti.com Fri Sep 30 05:44:49 2011 From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins) Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2011 06:44:49 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4A - Drove It Home Message-ID: All, I am thrilled to announce, that: after six short months of driving the car as a teen, and sixteen years of begging my mother to give me the car, and, after getting the car, almost one year of studying how to restore it, and nearly eight years of restoration, and two weeks of getting it setup for the road..., I drove the car home yesterday from the shop!!!! I believe I was smiling ear-to-ear the whole time. On this, my 40th birthday, I am looking forward to many decades of driving pleasure. Thank you to all who advised and offered support throughout the process. Hope to show-off the car at some DFW events in the not too distant future. Cheers, Guy D. Huggins 1965 Triumph TR4A CTC 63569LO Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Fri Sep 30 07:42:21 2011 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2011 09:42:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] greenish oil now ZDDP, dripping chambers References: <4BE1F4675A8C416495E8697DE6BE9E25@DELL05639> <040a01cc7edb$610cd3f0$23267bd0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <60350869127A434B8FB76EFF0723AC93@DELL05639> My greenish oil is due to ZDDP. Yeah, I accidentily flopped the summer/winter viscosity thing. The biggest factor about the marine batteries is their height. This one I bought was more than an inch (or two) taller than Group 24 (or is it Group 27?) batteries, but, it was only 38 lbs! (I need to road test the welding on my battery box before I put anything any heavier in in.) Perhaps more importantly, it was only $58.00! Still , the height was acceptable- but, please DON'T LET ME CATCH YOU WALKING ON MY HOOD! MY BONNET LIES OVER THE OCEAN. What is it that Halomar does? The rubber stuff, I think, throughout the carbs has been replaced. I wonder if two rubber washers along with the steel washer under the head of the float chamber attachment bolt might stop it from dripping gas? Thanks, Paul 60 tre ts78316 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "'Paul Dorsey'" ; Sent: Thursday, September 29, 2011 3:09 PM Subject: RE: [TR] greenish oil now ZDDP, dripping chambers >> From here on out, >> I plan to use Valvoline 20w-50. For summer driving, I may use 10w-30. > > Isn't that backwards, Paul? 20W50 would be for hot weather, 10W30 when > it's > cooler. (Although I run 20W50 year-round and it does OK even in > occasional > freezing temps.) > >> I doubt the Valvoline 20w-50 plus a little >> plastic >> bottle from Moss of ZDDP will be too much ZDDP??? > > Personally, I have a strong bias in favor of not using aftermarket > additives. Composing a motor oil additive package is a complex process > involving a careful balance of dozens of chemicals. People literally get > advanced degrees in chemistry in order to do this! And you are paying for > that expertise when you buy a premium oil (like Valvoline). The idea that > some "one size fits all" mixture will improve the carefully crafted > balance > seems unlikely to me. Using an aftermarket additive is akin to dumping > pepper on an expensive restaurant meal before tasting it. > >> It had a CCA of 625! Can u guess my biggest concern >> about this? > > Suppose you tell us. Pretty much all modern batteries have much higher > CCA > ratings than older ones, due to improvements in metal refining and such. > Having a higher CCA rating is not a problem, but CCA is not the same thing > as capacity. Does it have an AH or RC rating? > >> I wonder >> what the torque is for the float chamber attachment bolts for a SU HS6 >> is?? >> But, they seemed snug. Any suggestions? > > Are these HS6, or H6 carbs? On the HS6, the float chamber bolts cannot > leak > (unless the chamber falls off). I'm guessing you have H6 carbs instead, > and > that it's time (already) for new float chamber gaskets. > > -- Randall From yellowtr at adelphia.net Fri Sep 30 07:58:24 2011 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2011 09:58:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4A - Drove It Home In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4E85CB00.4020207@adelphia.net> Guy, Congrats on the restoration! The first ride is a great thrill. I can attest to that on 3 cars! And the smile will never go away! Wow, 8 years on the restoration! My patience wouldn't last that long. You must have tons. Bob On 09/30/2011 07:44 AM, G.D. Huggins wrote: > All, > > I am thrilled to announce, that: > > after six short months of driving the car as a teen, > and sixteen years of begging my mother to give me the car, > and, after getting the car, almost one year of studying how to restore it, > and nearly eight years of restoration, > and two weeks of getting it setup for the road..., > I drove the car home yesterday from the shop!!!! > > I believe I was smiling ear-to-ear the whole time. > On this, my 40th birthday, I am looking forward to many decades of driving > pleasure. > > Thank you to all who advised and offered support throughout the process. > Hope to show-off the car at some DFW events in the not too distant future. > > > > Cheers, > > Guy D. Huggins > 1965 Triumph TR4A > CTC 63569LO > > Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph From mmarr at notwires.com Fri Sep 30 08:33:40 2011 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2011 09:33:40 -0500 Subject: [TR] Greenish oil now 50weight? References: <2163075C495A4AF1A887C353FD425DEF@DELL05639><04dd01cc7c7d$f19fa6f0$d4def4d0$@rr.com><4F26795EE3B548D7B1D37D7F44923C55@DELL05639> <0c0f01cc7d1d$78eddd80$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: Back in the day, Duckham's 20/50 was the recommended multi-grade for most British cars. I don't know if Duckham's exists any more - Johnmac? Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2011 8:58 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Greenish oil now 50weight? >> what does the list think of running Valvoline 50 weight oil? > > Straight 50 weight is too thick when it's cold, IMO, particularly with a > freshly rebuilt motor. Back when I lived in a cooler climate, I found > that > the oil pressure would go too high (peg the gauge) even with 40 weight. > Pressure too high puts extra strain on the pump drive, and makes leaks > around the filter head more likely. It's also apt to open the bypass > valve, > and feed the engine with unfiltered oil. > > But 20W50 (which acts like 20 weight when it is cold) might be OK. > > -- Randall From cliff_hansen at earthlink.net Fri Sep 30 08:57:20 2011 From: cliff_hansen at earthlink.net (Cliff Hansen) Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2011 10:57:20 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] hi, Message-ID: <6280273.1317394640260.JavaMail.root@wamui-hunyo.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Aloha State, http://agencecardin.com/index101ww--.php?ahotmailID=f7bi4 From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Fri Sep 30 08:57:21 2011 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2011 07:57:21 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR4A - Drove It Home In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1317394641.5054.YahooMailNeo@web120216.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> congratulations Guy. i recall the feeling. and who said we are not passing on the hobby to a younger generation? Frank ________________________________ From: G.D. Huggins To: triumphs at autox.team.net; RedRiverTriumph at yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, September 30, 2011 4:44 AM Subject: [TR] TR4A - Drove It Home All, I am thrilled to announce, that: after six short months of driving the car as a teen, and sixteen years of begging my mother to give me the car, and, after getting the car, almost one year of studying how to restore it, and nearly eight years of restoration, and two weeks of getting it setup for the road..., I drove the car home yesterday from the shop!!!! I believe I was smiling ear-to-ear the whole time. On this, my 40th birthday, I am looking forward to many decades of driving pleasure. Thank you to all who advised and offered support throughout the process. Hope to show-off the car at some DFW events in the not too distant future. Cheers, Guy D. Huggins 1965 Triumph TR4A CTC 63569LO Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From jeremiah at curryclan.net Fri Sep 30 09:05:59 2011 From: jeremiah at curryclan.net (Jeremiah Curry) Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2011 09:05:59 -0600 Subject: [TR] greenish oil now ZDDP, dripping chambers In-Reply-To: <1317379364.49898.YahooMailNeo@web28310.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> References: <4BE1F4675A8C416495E8697DE6BE9E25@DELL05639> <1317379364.49898.YahooMailNeo@web28310.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I came across this list of oils good for older cars and thought others might find it usefull: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-tech-performance/2484100-list-of-flat-tap pet-oils.html thanks, Jeremiah -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Macartney Sent: Friday, September 30, 2011 4:43 AM To: Paul Dorsey; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] greenish oil now ZDDP, dripping chambers I've absolutely no axe to grind about Valvoline products as they were used for about half the total journey on the Triumph Trans-America Stag in 2009. From the start in Florida until we reached about the near halfway point in Tennessee, the car was running Valvoline 20W/50 with added ZDDP. At the next change, I was recommended to switch to Valvoline VR1 Racing 40. On reaching Colorado, where we did an equivalent 10,000 mile service, the cam chambers and oil filter were full of an odious black sludge. Up to that point, I hadn't been entirely satisfied with the sound coming from the engine. Having driven many Stags over the years, it lacked that turbine-like smoothness and can best be described as 'jangly' and 'loose.' Detailed checks revealed we weren't doing it any damage but decided at Colorado to revert to Valvoline 20W/50 with something called 'Mystery Oil' to clean out the filth and to do another oil and filter change on reaching Minneapolis. The filth that came out at that change was unbelieveable! From Minneapolis onwards to the finish in California, the car was running Castrol Classic 20W/50 (at my insistence) with ZDDP. It's clear the blending process for Castrol in the US and Europe is different as in Europe we don't have to add zinc - and Castrol certainly don't use castor oil now - except in Racing 40 and that's only for the smell it leaves on the exhaust. But the point I want to make is that from Minneapolis onwards, the sound from the engine was utterly different and just like every Stag I've ever driven. Smooth, syrupy and just as it should be. I'm not making any criticism of Valvoline products but I'm left with the impression that they're probably better suited to more modern engines and perhaps Valvoline VR1 Racing isn't the ideal lube diet for an older designed engine? If nothing else, that experience confirmed to me yet again that the engines in our cars are far better suited to a 20W/50 mineral oil of the 'classic' blend than anything else available. But then, as I doubt I'll ever do a trip of that length again, the likelihood of me using Valvoline is remote. Just my two pence worth Jonmac triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jeremiah at curryclan.net From wbeech at flash.net Fri Sep 30 09:23:16 2011 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2011 10:23:16 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4A - Drove It Home In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <50A3697446DB4815BDB8362A9FC9088F@bboffice> <> Congratulations Guy, If you think that first ride was fun just wait for all the rides to come...it just keeps getting better! If you ever find yourself taking a ride out toward Abilene, give call and we'll hit some back roads together. BTW, Happy Birthday. All the best, Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Fri Sep 30 09:39:20 2011 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2011 08:39:20 -0700 Subject: [TR] greenish oil now ZDDP, dripping chambers In-Reply-To: <60350869127A434B8FB76EFF0723AC93@DELL05639> References: <4BE1F4675A8C416495E8697DE6BE9E25@DELL05639> <040a01cc7edb$610cd3f0$23267bd0$@rr.com> <60350869127A434B8FB76EFF0723AC93@DELL05639> Message-ID: On Fri, Sep 30, 2011 at 6:42 AM, Paul Dorsey wrote: > ... What is it that Halomar does? The rubber stuff, I think, throughout > the carbs has been replaced. I wonder if two rubber washers along with the > steel washer under the head of the float chamber attachment bolt might stop > it from dripping gas? > The gasket I was mentioning is the one that seals the top to the chamber... a thin paper ring about 2" in diameter. Hylomar is a non-hardening sealant that may improve results when using thin gaskets and less-than-perfect mating surfaces. Geo From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk Fri Sep 30 12:18:37 2011 From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2011 19:18:37 +0100 (BST) Subject: [TR] Greenish oil now 50weight? In-Reply-To: References: <2163075C495A4AF1A887C353FD425DEF@DELL05639><04dd01cc7c7d$f19fa6f0$d4def4d0$@rr.com><4F26795EE3B548D7B1D37D7F44923C55@DELL05639> <0c0f01cc7d1d$78eddd80$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <1317406717.67868.YahooMailNeo@web28308.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Yes, dear ol' Duckhams is still going. Alongside Castrol Classic 20/50, it's the other Number 1 choice for the 'ancients.' Still retains the original properties plus a few other modern ingredients to make it better than ever :) Jonmac >________________________________ >From: Michael Marr >To: Randall ; triumphs at autox.team.net >Sent: Friday, 30 September 2011, 15:33 >Subject: Re: [TR] Greenish oil now 50weight? > >Back in the day, Duckham's 20/50 was the recommended multi-grade for most British cars. I don't know if Duckham's exists any more - Johnmac? > >Mike > >----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" >To: >Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2011 8:58 AM >Subject: Re: [TR] Greenish oil now 50weight? > > >>> what does the list think of running Valvoline 50 weight oil? >> >> Straight 50 weight is too thick when it's cold, IMO, particularly with a >> freshly rebuilt motor. Back when I lived in a cooler climate, I found that >> the oil pressure would go too high (peg the gauge) even with 40 weight. >> Pressure too high puts extra strain on the pump drive, and makes leaks >> around the filter head more likely. It's also apt to open the bypass valve, >> and feed the engine with unfiltered oil. >> >> But 20W50 (which acts like 20 weight when it is cold) might be OK. >> >> -- Randall > > >triumphs at autox.team.net > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Sep 30 13:50:46 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2011 12:50:46 -0700 Subject: [TR] greenish oil now ZDDP, dripping chambers In-Reply-To: <60350869127A434B8FB76EFF0723AC93@DELL05639> References: <4BE1F4675A8C416495E8697DE6BE9E25@DELL05639> <040a01cc7edb$610cd3f0$23267bd0$@rr.com> <60350869127A434B8FB76EFF0723AC93@DELL05639> Message-ID: <057d01cc7faa$4007e990$c017bcb0$@rr.com> > The rubber stuff, I think, throughout the > carbs has been replaced. I wonder if two rubber washers along with the > steel washer under the head of the float chamber attachment bolt might > stop it from dripping gas? I have found the life of those two rubber "top hat" seals (where the later H6 float bowls attach to the carb body) to be highly variable. Sometimes they last many years, sometimes they start leaking after just a few months. And of course they get old whether you drive the car or not. Some appear to not be compatible with ethanol/MTBE either (meaning they start to rot as soon as they come in contact with E10). Sometimes, adding an extra washer (to get more compression on the "top hats") will help them seal for a short time. But I've never had it last for long. So my feeling is that, if you are going to remove the bolt anyway, you might as well install new seals. TRF sells just the seals, P/N SUAUC1534. Moss is apparently selling improved Viton seals, P/N 370-021. I might have to try those, next time mine start leaking. I'm a big fan of Hylomar, but it doesn't seem to help in this particular case. -- Randall From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Fri Sep 30 14:18:28 2011 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2011 13:18:28 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Greenish oil now 50weight? In-Reply-To: <1317406717.67868.YahooMailNeo@web28308.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> References: <2163075C495A4AF1A887C353FD425DEF@DELL05639><04dd01cc7c7d$f19fa6f0$d4def4d0$@rr.com><4F26795EE3B548D7B1D37D7F44923C55@DELL05639> <0c0f01cc7d1d$78eddd80$0301a8c0@randall> <1317406717.67868.YahooMailNeo@web28308.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1317413908.95162.YahooMailNeo@web120218.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> John is it still green? I'm sure it is, but remember its not easy being green ________________________________ From: John Macartney To: Michael Marr ; Randall ; "triumphs at autox.team.net" Sent: Friday, September 30, 2011 11:18 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Greenish oil now 50weight? Yes, dear ol' Duckhams is still going. Alongside Castrol Classic 20/50, it's the other Number 1 choice for the 'ancients.' Still retains the original properties plus a few other modern ingredients to make it better than ever :) Jonmac >________________________________ >From: Michael Marr >To: Randall ; triumphs at autox.team.net >Sent: Friday, 30 September 2011, 15:33 >Subject: Re: [TR] Greenish oil now 50weight? > >Back in the day, Duckham's 20/50 was the recommended multi-grade for most British cars. I don't know if Duckham's exists any more - Johnmac? > >Mike > >----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" >To: >Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2011 8:58 AM >Subject: Re: [TR] Greenish oil now 50weight? > > >>> what does the list think of running Valvoline 50 weight oil? >> >> Straight 50 weight is too thick when it's cold, IMO, particularly with a >> freshly rebuilt motor. Back when I lived in a cooler climate, I found that >> the oil pressure would go too high (peg the gauge) even with 40 weight. >> Pressure too high puts extra strain on the pump drive, and makes leaks >> around the filter head more likely. It's also apt to open the bypass valve, >> and feed the engine with unfiltered oil. >> >> But 20W50 (which acts like 20 weight when it is cold) might be OK. >> >> -- Randall > > >triumphs at autox.team.net > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From agraham at execulink.com Fri Sep 30 15:45:02 2011 From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham) Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2011 17:45:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 trunk lid seal Message-ID: <4E86385E.5050100@execulink.com> Hello List: Still at the 'little' details on my '2 project. Got an 'early' trunk lid seal from TRF and used weather strip adhesive to install the seal. Only had to use the adhesive on the top and part of the side sections. The rest was a very tight fit. Problem is that the seal is far too proud in the channel to let the lid close properly. This is especially the case on the upper channel. I was very careful to insure that the seal was seated in the channel. Are you required to trim the seal on the base (channel side) to fit or to accommodate the lid? I checked the list archives and I followed the advice on orienting the seal. The archives had no mention of trimming the seal height to allow the trunk to close properly. Any other experiences with this out there?? Thanks for your help. Angelo Graham From wbeech at flash.net Fri Sep 30 17:49:48 2011 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2011 18:49:48 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 trunk lid seal In-Reply-To: <4E86385E.5050100@execulink.com> References: <4E86385E.5050100@execulink.com> Message-ID: <28E79063E60146CEAA8C90788B3E5842@bboffice> Angelo, Same issue here as the doors, if you can close the boot lid the seal will 'seat' and form to fit. It take a few months before it looks about right. Mine have been installed for two years, from TRF, and I still have push down to compress the seal in order to latch the lid on my TR3. Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Angelo Graham Sent: Friday, September 30, 2011 4:45 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR2/3 trunk lid seal Hello List: Still at the 'little' details on my '2 project. Got an 'early' trunk lid seal from TRF and used weather strip adhesive to install the seal. Only had to use the adhesive on the top and part of the side sections. The rest was a very tight fit. Problem is that the seal is far too proud in the channel to let the lid close properly. This is especially the case on the upper channel. I was very careful to insure that the seal was seated in the channel. Are you required to trim the seal on the base (channel side) to fit or to accommodate the lid? I checked the list archives and I followed the advice on orienting the seal. The archives had no mention of trimming the seal height to allow the trunk to close properly. Any other experiences with this out there?? Thanks for your help. Angelo Graham triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From mmarr at notwires.com Fri Sep 30 18:03:44 2011 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2011 19:03:44 -0500 Subject: [TR] Greenish oil now 50weight? References: <2163075C495A4AF1A887C353FD425DEF@DELL05639><04dd01cc7c7d$f19fa6f0$d4def4d0$@rr.com><4F26795EE3B548D7B1D37D7F44923C55@DELL05639> <0c0f01cc7d1d$78eddd80$0301a8c0@randall> <1317406717.67868.YahooMailNeo@web28308.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2E0BC5BEF79A40C6B8D3DD68ACFFA9D8@trigeni.com> I just used to like the smell - it was unique, I thought. Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Macartney" To: "Michael Marr" ; "Randall" ; Sent: Friday, September 30, 2011 1:18 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Greenish oil now 50weight? Yes, dear ol' Duckhams is still going. Alongside Castrol Classic 20/50, it's the other Number 1 choice for the 'ancients.' Still retains the original properties plus a few other modern ingredients to make it better than ever :) Jonmac From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Sep 30 20:36:54 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2011 19:36:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 trunk lid seal In-Reply-To: <4E86385E.5050100@execulink.com> References: <4E86385E.5050100@execulink.com> Message-ID: <04ac01cc7fe2$fbf5d3f0$0301a8c0@randall> The TRF seal fit just fine on my TR3. No trimming required. Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Sep 30 21:01:37 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2011 20:01:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] greenish oil now ZDDP, dripping chambers In-Reply-To: <1317379364.49898.YahooMailNeo@web28310.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> References: <4BE1F4675A8C416495E8697DE6BE9E25@DELL05639> <1317379364.49898.YahooMailNeo@web28310.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <04b501cc7fe6$6fde7f80$0301a8c0@randall> > From > the start in Florida until we reached about the near halfway point in > Tennessee, the car was running Valvoline 20W/50 with added > ZDDP. At the next > change, I was recommended to switch to Valvoline VR1 Racing > 40. On reaching > Colorado, where we did an equivalent 10,000 mile service, the > cam chambers and > oil filter were full of an odious black sludge. That's curious, John, I wonder what happened. I have covered many thousands of miles with both 20W50 and straight 40 VR1, and never seen anything like you describe. The oil itself would eventually turn dark, but the inside of the engine would be very clean. I have to think that the ZDDP additive was at least partially to blame. -- Randall