[TR] Mystery Smoke Update

[Tony Drews]

No great suggestions, but a question - when you did the compression 
test, did you have the throttle butterflies open?  If you don't open 
up the carbs you'll get low readings.  (Don't ask me how I know... :) )

I have no clue on the moisture on the carbs / intake.  But, I'd start 
by getting the mixture under control - if the plugs are black but 
sooty (not oily), try dialing back on the richness and see what 
happens.  Check the floats too.

Tony

At 05:51 PM 11/20/2011, Alex wrote:
>Existing problem for refresher purposes are at the bottom of this email.
>
>Here is what we have determined so far:
>   1.. upon start up and revving of the engine a steady cloud out the back of
>what appears to be a mixture of blue and white smoke...mist.
>   2.. Spark plugs badly fouled with black soot. Carbs are running very rich.
>   3.. warmed car to running temp - no bubbles in the neck of the radiator or
>any surging when increasing rpm's.
>   4.. ran a compression test...results... 3rd cylinder back from the front
>(#4) had 75 lbs on first go. Putting a little oil in increased the pressure to
>85 lbs. All other cylinders have 120 lbs. Note- adjusted the valves....intakes
>were lose, exhaust were tight. Number 4 cylinder pressure dropped to 65 lbs
>and with a little oil in the cylinder rose to 75 lbs.
>   5.. Rough idling...looked at the points....set correctly....however did
>notice a significant amount of rocking in the "moving contact breaker plate".
>This was not normal movement but actual rocking where the point set would
>actually move away from the cam. No idea if this is suppose to be this way.
>   6.. Took the car for a 20 mile run and returned. During the run...all
>evidence of the mosquito control effect was gone. Just a little blue smoke at
>shifting or a more significant amount after idling for a few minutes and then
>accelerating.
>   7.. Car ran/idled a little better. Should note that the points were cleaned
>with emery as there was some pitting.
>   8.. After the 20 mile run a significant amount of condensation on the front
>carb and 1/2 as much on the rear carb, but plenty of water droplets over the
>intake and carb bodies.
>Suspicions:
>   1.. Bad rings in #4 cylinder.
>   2.. Bad head gasket......not cracked near a water port, but possibly into
>the push rod well that maybe causing the high pressure causing oil vapors and
>drips from the engine vent tube and the valve cover cap. Also possibly causing
>the lower compression in #4 cylinder.
>   3.. Water condensation caused by extreme richness of the carbs which may be
>causing the carbs to run cool.
>   4.. no clue???????? :o)
>Initial plans pending the lists feedback.....
>   1.. pull the head and check the head gasket.
>   2.. If the head gasket is good, drop the oil sump and release the push rod
>to inspect replace rings.
>Basic Questions:
>   1.. according to the manual, the sump can be dropped without pulling the
>engine?
>   2.. any "watch out for's" in pulling the head?
>   3.. any club technical bulletins to read before all the above and where
>would they be?
>As always.... wide open to suggestions.
>
>Alex Manzo
>59 TR3A
>
>
>triumphs at autox.team.net
>
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