From tr3 at roadrunner.com Tue Nov 1 08:09:07 2011 From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (TRnut) Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2011 08:09:07 -0700 Subject: [TR] Driving Gloves In-Reply-To: <3C36976F-0603-4DB7-9782-7C74DF37A177@comcast.net> References: <7e1a5.69c4d4e9.3bdaa2e3@aol.com> <3C36976F-0603-4DB7-9782-7C74DF37A177@comcast.net> Message-ID: <9A0BA487-8995-48F2-B273-AB5AB5ACDAC0@roadrunner.com> I was thinking, It would be nice to have one glove that is shaped to respond to appreciative expressions from other drivers, etc. for having a beautiful vintage car and the other glove to respond to gestures of displeasure or insults. Any suggestions? Hans TR3A On Oct 31, 2011, at 11:35 PM, Bud Rolofson wrote: > Got mine from Pusateri a glove maker in Firenze, (Florence) Italy > back in 2005. Fingerless driving gloves for $45 and worth every > penny. > > > Bud Rolofson > > 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) > 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) > 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) > 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) > Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) > levilevi at comcast.net > > > > > On Oct 27, 2011, at 6:04 AM, Chip19474 at aol.com wrote: > >> List, >> >> Since I don't drive the TR6 top down very often in cold weather, the >> steering wheel is usually at a fairly reasonable temperature and my >> hands are >> warm enough for a good grip. Lately; however, on those crisp cool >> days like >> we had last Saturday, the wheel was cold and my hands weren't much >> better. >> >> So, I think I'll be adding driving gloves to my Christmas list from >> the >> kids! For those of you that use driving gloves....what do you >> have? Where >> did you purchase them? Did you visit a store and try on several >> pairs (like >> buying shoes) to get the "best fit"? I'm hoping that this >> purchase will >> not require a trip to a Mall:) >> >> Thanks, >> >> Chip Krout >> Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. >> Skippack, PA >> 1976 TR6 CF57822U >> >> >> triumphs at autox.team.net >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3 at roadrunner.com From thenicholls at verizon.net Tue Nov 1 10:21:04 2011 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Tue, 01 Nov 2011 12:21:04 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Driving Gloves Message-ID: <147530239.8617364.1320168064458.JavaMail.root@vznit170070> I bet with some excessive starch applied like you starch a shirt that both expressions would be possible. However, I am not sure how well they would work for driving. Its a trade off. Good thought though. Craig 1972 Triumph TR6 Nov 1, 2011 12:15:14 PM, tr3 at roadrunner.com wrote: I was thinking, It would be nice to have one glove that is shaped to respond to appreciative expressions from other drivers, etc. for having a beautiful vintage car and the other glove to respond to gestures of displeasure or insults. Any suggestions? Hans TR3A On Oct 31, 2011, at 11:35 PM, Bud Rolofson wrote: > Got mine from Pusateri a glove maker in Firenze, (Florence) Italy > back in 2005. Fingerless driving gloves for $45 and worth every > penny. > > > Bud Rolofson > > 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) > 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) > 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) > 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) > Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) > levilevi at comcast.net > > > > > On Oct 27, 2011, at 6:04 AM, Chip19474 at aol.com wrote: > >> List, >> >> Since I don't drive the TR6 top down very often in cold weather, the >> steering wheel is usually at a fairly reasonable temperature and my >> hands are >> warm enough for a good grip. Lately; however, on those crisp cool >> days like >> we had last Saturday, the wheel was cold and my hands weren't much >> better. >> >> So, I think I'll be adding driving gloves to my Christmas list from >> the >> kids! For those of you that use driving gloves....what do you >> have? Where >> did you purchase them? Did you visit a store and try on several >> pairs (like >> buying shoes) to get the "best fit"? I'm hoping that this >> purchase will >> not require a trip to a Mall:) >> >> Thanks, >> >> Chip Krout >> Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. >> Skippack, PA >> 1976 TR6 CF57822U >> >> >> triumphs at autox.team.net >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3 at roadrunner.com triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net From jtnichols at comcast.net Tue Nov 1 11:45:38 2011 From: jtnichols at comcast.net (jtnichols at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2011 18:45:38 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Anyone know this car? Message-ID: <341093421.1421285.1320173138485.JavaMail.root@sz0004a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> http://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/carsforsale/triumph/tr4a/1315221.html&refer=news From dctr6 at optonline.net Tue Nov 1 12:52:49 2011 From: dctr6 at optonline.net (Dennis Culligan) Date: Tue, 01 Nov 2011 15:52:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] {TR} Driving gloves Message-ID: <000001cc98cf$d88aa980$899ffc80$@net> TRnut wrote: >the other glove to respond to gestures of displeasure or insults. Any suggestions? How about getting one of those big "We're Number One" foam hands and transplanting the finger? Just a thought. Dennis Culligan, Highland. NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Tue Nov 1 14:02:54 2011 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2011 14:02:54 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] {TR} Driving gloves In-Reply-To: <000001cc98cf$d88aa980$899ffc80$@net> References: <000001cc98cf$d88aa980$899ffc80$@net> Message-ID: <1320181374.83820.YahooMailNeo@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> will not work internationally. traditional British sign language requires 2 fingers. Italians tend to require the complete hand and arm, sometimes even both hands and arms! Frank ________________________________ From: Dennis Culligan To: tr3 at roadrunner.com Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Tuesday, November 1, 2011 12:52 PM Subject: [TR] {TR} Driving gloves TRnut wrote: >the other glove to respond to gestures of displeasure or insults. Any suggestions? How about getting one of those big "We're Number One" foam hands and transplanting the finger? Just a thought. Dennis Culligan, Highland. NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From thenicholls at verizon.net Tue Nov 1 19:11:58 2011 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Tue, 01 Nov 2011 21:11:58 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] 1972 Triumph TR6 spark plug question Message-ID: <210879597.8645731.1320199919103.JavaMail.root@vznit170070> I received a new thermo and gasket from TRF today to just replace the thing. I do not recall putting anything like Holimer (sp?) dressing on the gasket. Am I correct that it just goes on as is? Thanks, Craig 1972 Triumph TR6 Oct 29, 2011 10:21:38 AM, flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk wrote: Craig, another way to test if a 'stat is working or not is to remove it completely. Put it in a saucepan or lab jar of warm water with a 212F thermomenter. Bring the water up to boiling point and watch the temp on the thermometer. At around 180deg, the stat should start to open quite fast. If it doesn't, it's toast and needs replacing. Maybe you don't want to try this, so just fit a new stat anyway. It's not as though they're costly and its always useful to have a spare. Jonmac http://standard-triumph-books.co.uk/ From: "thenicholls at verizon.net" To: fishplate at charter.net Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Saturday, 29 October 2011, 5:14 Subject: Re: [TR] 1972 Triumph TR6 spark plug question Don't know, I could replace it. Any way to test that? I did replace it 4/1/2006, that could be it. Thanks, Craig Oct 28, 2011 11:52:24 PM, fishplate at charter.net wrote: On 10/28/2011 10:16 PM, thenicholls at verizon.net wrote: > Is it possible for an engine to run too cold? I had never thought this was a concern. ` Yes, but it's not likely to be the plugs. Is your thermostat stuck open? triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Nov 1 21:00:14 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2011 21:00:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] 1972 Triumph TR6 spark plug question In-Reply-To: <210879597.8645731.1320199919103.JavaMail.root@vznit170070> References: <210879597.8645731.1320199919103.JavaMail.root@vznit170070> Message-ID: <02d501cc9913$ed3bf660$0501a8c0@randall> > I received a new thermo and gasket from TRF today to just > replace the thing. I do not recall putting anything like > Holimer (sp?) dressing on the gasket. Am I correct that it > just goes on as is? The Hylomar is optional. -- Randall From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Wed Nov 2 05:28:40 2011 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2011 05:28:40 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Proper level in TR6 fuel filter Message-ID: <1320236920.80125.YahooMailNeo@web39402.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Joe Merone wrote: Sent: October 31, 2011 Hi folks. I have a fuel filter on my TR6 that you can see through, and am wondering how much gas there should actually be in there at any given time. It seems kind of low - only about 1/5 full whether the engine is running or turned off. -Joe Merone -------------------------- Hi Joe & List Members! I just got back from being out of town for the past month & I'm reading the back log of TRIUMPH Digest list (from the most recent & also for where I left off, before I left off). So you may be hearing from me again about threads that have expired (if there is no E-mail address next to the person's name, as Joe Merone has done. Joe, Where have you located your glass Fuel Filter (FF)? I've located mine just before the Front Carb Float Bowel, & I too have it about 1/5th full, as others have mentioned. I too have had no problems in getting it up to the 'red line', when cool or driving up in the Northern US. BUT! I have had problems when I've driven for about 4+ hr. & need to 'top-up' the fuel cell (when I drive in extreme heat; GA & south, as well as in SD in August {Temp in the sun = 100+^F.}). I will be able to start up the TR4A & drive about 200' with NO PROBLEM. After that I get the jerking & sputtering as running out of gas (Vapor lock?). When i was in SD I vented the gas line before the Mechanical Fuel Pump (MFP), because I didn't have an Electric Fuel Pump (EFP). Glen M. told me of TRIUMPH owners having both installed in their cars. So over that winter, I installed an EFP just past the fuel cell with a toggle switch so the TR4A runs off of the MFP all the time & I can switch on the EPF at anytime. So when I drove down to VTR'10, I had no need to use the EFP until I left Athens, GA & stopped to refill up at the Southerner portion of GA. When I reached that 200' mark of driving, & the TR4A started acting up, I flipped the toggle switch to activate the EFP. After 10 sec., the car ran fine & I turned off the EFP to have NO problems again, until the next stop. So I too was wondering if not having the Glass FF full is aiding in my problem? OR Is the MFP's Diaphragm wearing out after the rebuilt of one year because of the 10% Ethentol that is now in the gas? I'm interested in input from the list on this thread. TIA, -Cosmo Kramer From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Wed Nov 2 05:55:59 2011 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2011 05:55:59 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Cosmo's repair manual Message-ID: <1320238559.81203.YahooMailNeo@web39424.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hi List! Catching up on back log of TR Digest, still. back in the beginning of Oct. someone wrote that my TR4A E-mail Repair Manual was not only about TR4 & TR4A material. Yes, that person is correct. My main objective was to include any threads of info. that could be use in regarding the TR4 or TR4A cars. Because these TRIUMPH Models were the 'cross overs' between the 'wet cylinders engines' & the TR6's, there will be material that can apply to some or all models. Example: Bud's article on installing Cruse Control can be applied to all of these. BUT- TBI can NOT apply to any of the 'wet cylinder engines' because of it's firring order; therefore I did not include this in the manual. So, ANYONE can down load this manual at: http://www.fileswap.com/dl/sDPUDvvh/Cosmo%92s_TR4-A_E-mail_Manual_9-12-2011.p df.html OR Cosmo Kramer TR4-A E-mail Manual 9-12-2011.pdf if they wish, but some of the material may NOT apply to their cars, like IRS, to TR2-3 owners. -Cosmo Kramer From Chip19474 at aol.com Wed Nov 2 06:04:00 2011 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2011 09:04:00 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] 1972 Triumph TR6 spark plug question Message-ID: <1a4a.4c6fcc75.3be299c0@aol.com> Craig, My choice for these gaskets is a thin smear of Permatex High Tack Gasket Sealant......small can will last you a long time.....has a nice brush built into the lid. Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U In a message dated 11/1/2011 11:13:39 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, thenicholls at verizon.net writes: I do not recall putting anything like Holimer (sp?) dressing on the gasket. Am I correct that it just goes on as is? From Chip19474 at aol.com Wed Nov 2 06:22:16 2011 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2011 09:22:16 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Anyone know this car? Message-ID: <27cb.46591246.3be29e08@aol.com> Since you mentioned Lancaster, PA, it looks like the Awards area from the Artistry in Motion Show sponsored each year by the Lancaster Museum of Art. I don't know the car but, not to be smug, I've won there so I know from scrutiny that they are very particular about car show quality, etc. Here's the website link to the show: _http://www.stonehengevahomes.com/Artistry/Artistry.html_ (http://www.stonehengevahomes.com/Artistry/Artistry.html) . The photo is either from this year's show, 2010 or earlier (except 2009 when it rained - the photo looks like it was taken in dry weather). I found photos on the website from 2009 but, oddly not 2010 or 2011. But, I'm guessing that you could contact a show representative to get the owner's info. Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U In a message dated 11/1/2011 3:20:00 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, jtnichols at comcast.net writes: http://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/carsforsale/triumph/tr4a/1315221.html&re fer=news triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/chip19474 at aol.com From jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com Wed Nov 2 06:40:28 2011 From: jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com (John Young) Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2011 06:40:28 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Proper level in TR6 fuel filter In-Reply-To: <1320236920.80125.YahooMailNeo@web39402.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <1320236920.80125.YahooMailNeo@web39402.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1320241228.83258.YahooMailNeo@web81407.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hi All, If the fuel filter is mounted with the outlet on top, the level of fuel will indicate how much of the filter media is being used at the time. As the media begins to fill with "stuff" filtered out, the level rises so that the fuel can be filtered through unclogged media. Thus when the level rises, you know how soon you must replace it by how high the level has become. Be happy that it is only up a short way. This is just my opinion. John Young NASS# 528 Indiana '78 Spitfire '66 Spitfire '59 TR3A From trstreep at sbcglobal.net Wed Nov 2 07:22:51 2011 From: trstreep at sbcglobal.net (Bob Streepy) Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2011 09:22:51 -0500 Subject: [TR] 2012 Calendars Message-ID: <0DD5CDA6BF37417899D438607AFBF665@BobXP01> Greetings Triumphistae, For listers interested in purchasing a 2012 Illinois Sports Owners Association calendar, they are once again available. The latest edition is in full colour and measures 8 = x 11. It includes 3 TR6s, a TR3, 2 Stags, 2 Tr7s, a TVR, a 2000 Roadster [Triumph  not Honda], a TR4, and a Spitfire, plus several Triumph related collages. Calendars may be purchased at: sales at vidataprint.com @ $$8.00 single copy, $15.00 @ two, or $20.00 for three, plus a $2.00 per calendar shipping and handling fee. For additional information or inquiries, contact Joe Pawlak, ViData Print, 365 S. Main St. PO Box 37, Burlington, IL 60109 Proceeds from all calendar sales will go to the ISOA Tool fund. Bob Streepy From trmarty at hotmail.com Wed Nov 2 09:59:22 2011 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2011 12:59:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] See through fuel filters Message-ID: FWIW. Over the course of a few years I was having intermittent issues with the TR8 acting like it was running out of gas. Pull over and wait a minute and it would fire up and run for a week or months until it would happen again. Replaced the fuel pump, nothing. Replaced the wiring to the fuel pump thinking it might be a ground issue, nothing. Then recalled somebody saying they had issues with a see through filter and also somebody having issued with the inexpensive after market fuel pressure regulators, the chrome looking ones with the round dial on the face. The TR8 had both of these installed. I replaced both of them at the start of the driving season this year and (knock on wood) it has not missed a beat since. Marty From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Wed Nov 2 10:10:16 2011 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2011 10:10:16 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3A Tonneaus Message-ID: <1320253816.13702.YahooMailRC@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Years ago I bought a black tonneau from LBCarCo.com for my TR3A. It was on sale at a good price. It has been on my shelf for several years. Anyway, I opened it up to put on and am unhappy with the fit. The steering wheel cover part of the tonneau doesn't slide all the way over the original wheel and sticks up funny. The whole thing just doesn't look right to me, although this may be because my old ratty tonneau has lasted for so long and I was so used to it. Anyone else have a similar problem with a LBC tonneau? Any good deals on tonneaus out there? I went on line to buy another tonneau, but the big 3 seem to want a lot for one. I paid $35 for my last tonneau at a impromptu swap meet at a British car show (Ventura show ISTR). It was essentially new with no snaps installed. I am considering taking the top to my favorite interior shop and just having them copy it and install reinforcements where the original tore. TIA Bill in Tehachapi From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Nov 2 10:15:13 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2011 10:15:13 -0700 Subject: [TR] Proper level in TR6 fuel filter In-Reply-To: <1320241228.83258.YahooMailNeo@web81407.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <1320236920.80125.YahooMailNeo@web39402.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <1320241228.83258.YahooMailNeo@web81407.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <080501cc9982$fd023400$f7069c00$@rr.com> > If the fuel filter is mounted with the outlet on top, the level of > fuel will indicate how much of the filter media is being used at the > time. As the media begins to fill with "stuff" filtered out, So, when the filter is half full, how does the fuel get to the top outlet to go to the engine? -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Nov 2 10:21:06 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2011 10:21:06 -0700 Subject: [TR] Cosmo's repair manual In-Reply-To: <1320238559.81203.YahooMailNeo@web39424.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <1320238559.81203.YahooMailNeo@web39424.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <080601cc9983$cefbb670$6cf32350$@rr.com> > BUT- TBI can NOT apply to any of the 'wet cylinder > engines' > because of it's firring order; Huh? Throttle Body fuel Injection can be applied to virtually any engine. Can't think of the name offhand, but there used to be a company near Moss that sold throttle bodies that would bolt right up to the TR2-4A wet liner engine. Oh yeah, TWM. It appears they have merged with Borla and moved to TN, but the throttle bodies are still available: http://www.twminduction.com/ThrottleBody/ThrottleBodySU-FR.html -- Randall From tgeiger at geigergarage.com Wed Nov 2 12:34:15 2011 From: tgeiger at geigergarage.com (Terry Geiger) Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2011 14:34:15 -0500 Subject: [TR] Exhaust header/manifold ceramic coating Message-ID: <001901cc9996$6ced31d0$46c79570$@geigergarage.com> Anyone have good experiences with a vendor that ceramic coats exhaust components? I have a TR6 header I would like to get ceramic coated (to reduce under bonnet temperatures) and would like some references beforehand. I've run a google search so I have the usual suspects. Thank you, Terry www.GeigerGarage.com From don.hiscock at gmail.com Wed Nov 2 13:43:06 2011 From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2011 16:43:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] Cosmo's repair manual In-Reply-To: <080601cc9983$cefbb670$6cf32350$@rr.com> References: <1320238559.81203.YahooMailNeo@web39424.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <080601cc9983$cefbb670$6cf32350$@rr.com> Message-ID: Yeah, Randall's right. The whole point of throttle body injection was that it didn't care about firing order as was a simple upgrade to carburetors back when the change to FI was going through the industry. Now multipoint/sequential injection is a different animal, and that definitely takes firing order into account. What a pity to lose the elegance of an SU carburetor for a TBI system, though... Don On Wed, Nov 2, 2011 at 1:21 PM, Randall wrote: > > BUT- TBI can NOT apply to any of the 'wet cylinder > > engines' > > because of it's firring order; > > Huh? Throttle Body fuel Injection can be applied to virtually any engine. > Can't think of the name offhand, but there used to be a company near Moss > that sold throttle bodies that would bolt right up to the TR2-4A wet liner > engine. > > Oh yeah, TWM. It appears they have merged with Borla and moved to TN, but > the throttle bodies are still available: > http://www.twminduction.com/ThrottleBody/ThrottleBodySU-FR.html > > -- Randall > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com From wbeech at flash.net Wed Nov 2 13:45:08 2011 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2011 15:45:08 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A Tonneaus In-Reply-To: <1320253816.13702.YahooMailRC@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <1320253816.13702.YahooMailRC@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <025404C41C9A43458CCE6109AEB2EDC1@bboffice> Bill, Funny you should write at this time, I was just getting ready to send a picture to Jeff Zorn at LBCo with this same complaint, the steering wheel boot seems to be made for a 15" and not the standard 17" TR3 wheel. Also, the fit is horrible, I feel like I just flushed $400, $275 + $125 installation cost, down the hole. I don't like to trash anyone in a public forum but if there are others with problems with this tonneau I am sure Jeff would like to know. Best regards, Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2011 12:10 PM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] TR3A Tonneaus Years ago I bought a black tonneau from LBCarCo.com for my TR3A. It was on sale at a good price. It has been on my shelf for several years. Anyway, I opened it up to put on and am unhappy with the fit. The steering wheel cover part of the tonneau doesn't slide all the way over the original wheel and sticks up funny. The whole thing just doesn't look right to me, although this may be because my old ratty tonneau has lasted for so long and I was so used to it. Anyone else have a similar problem with a LBC tonneau? Any good deals on tonneaus out there? I went on line to buy another tonneau, but the big 3 seem to want a lot for one. I paid $35 for my last tonneau at a impromptu swap meet at a British car show (Ventura show ISTR). It was essentially new with no snaps installed. I am considering taking the top to my favorite interior shop and just having them copy it and install reinforcements where the original tore. TIA Bill in Tehachapi triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From yellowtr at adelphia.net Wed Nov 2 14:04:49 2011 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Wed, 02 Nov 2011 17:04:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] Exhaust header/manifold ceramic coating In-Reply-To: <001901cc9996$6ced31d0$46c79570$@geigergarage.com> References: <001901cc9996$6ced31d0$46c79570$@geigergarage.com> Message-ID: <4EB1B071.4040202@adelphia.net> Terry, I had both my TR3 and TR6 manifolds plasma coated by a firm somewhere in Birmingham, AL. Cant remember the name but I could find it if you need it. Here is a photo link of the 6 manifold. http://inlinethumb58.webshots.com/44921/2253705800084399925S600x600Q85.jpg The coating is applied using a torch and it is of zinc composition. I think there are other colors available. The 3's manifold, after 4 seasons, looks just the same. If I remember correctly, the firms says the coating helps keep some heat out of the engine compartment. Bob On 11/02/2011 03:34 PM, Terry Geiger wrote: > Anyone have good experiences with a vendor that ceramic coats exhaust > components? I have a TR6 header I would like to get ceramic coated (to > reduce under bonnet temperatures) and would like some references beforehand. > I've run a google search so I have the usual suspects. > > > > Thank you, > > > > Terry > www.GeigerGarage.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Nov 2 14:13:21 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2011 14:13:21 -0700 Subject: [TR] Cosmo's repair manual In-Reply-To: References: <1320238559.81203.YahooMailNeo@web39424.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <080601cc9983$cefbb670$6cf32350$@rr.com> Message-ID: <084e01cc99a4$40ca7c80$c25f7580$@rr.com> > What a pity to lose the elegance of an SU carburetor for a TBI system, > though... Not to mention having your carburetors drip fuel onto the hot exhaust manifold. Especially impressive when the manifold is red hot (caused by a carburetion fault). -- Randall From kinderlehrer at comcast.net Wed Nov 2 15:01:08 2011 From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer) Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2011 22:01:08 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] See through fuel filters In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1297291697.1355323.1320271268338.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> I have heard that the see through filters can vapor lock really easily. Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "marty sukey" To: "Triumph List" Sent: Wednesday, November 2, 2011 9:59:22 AM Subject: [TR] See through fuel filters FWIW. B Over the course of a few years I was having intermittent issues with the TR8 acting like it was running out of gas. B Pull over and wait a minute and it would fire up and run for a week or months until it would happen again. Replaced the fuel pump, nothing. Replaced the wiring to the fuel pump thinking it might be a ground issue, nothing. B Then recalled somebody saying they had issues with a see through filter and also somebody having issued with the inexpensive after market B fuel pressure regulators, the chrome looking ones with the round dial on the face. The TR8 had both of these installed. B I replaced both of them at the start of the driving season this year and (knock on wood) it has not missed a beat since. Marty From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Wed Nov 2 15:28:15 2011 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2011 18:28:15 -0400 Subject: [TR] Exhaust header/manifold ceramic coating In-Reply-To: <001901cc9996$6ced31d0$46c79570$@geigergarage.com> References: <001901cc9996$6ced31d0$46c79570$@geigergarage.com> Message-ID: I'm happy with the jet hot coating on my intake and exhaust manifolds. I went with the shiny metal look - and the exhaust is still the same color as the intake - I've got about 2500 miles on it. On Wed, Nov 2, 2011 at 3:34 PM, Terry Geiger wrote: > Anyone have good experiences with a vendor that ceramic coats exhaust > components? I have a TR6 header I would like to get ceramic coated (to > reduce under bonnet temperatures) and would like some references > beforehand. > I've run a google search so I have the usual suspects. From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Wed Nov 2 17:32:43 2011 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net) Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2011 20:32:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] Exhaust header/manifold ceramic coating Message-ID: <380-22011114303243275@M2W125.mail2web.com> I've always gone with Jet Hot, never a problem, and my Spitfire headers (actually one of the first headers they coated when they started doing buisness) still holding up today, and that was many many years ago! Barry Original Message: ----------------- Anyone have good experiences with a vendor that ceramic coats exhaust components? I have a TR6 header I would like to get ceramic coated (to reduce under bonnet temperatures) and would like some references beforehand. I've run a google search so I have the usual suspects. Thank you, -------------------------------------------------------------------- myhosting.com - Premium Microsoft. Windows. and Linux web and application hosting - http://link.myhosting.com/myhosting From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Wed Nov 2 18:34:58 2011 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (suhringtr36 at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2011 01:34:58 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3A Tonneaus In-Reply-To: <025404C41C9A43458CCE6109AEB2EDC1@bboffice> Message-ID: <517773023.1605356.1320284098451.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Doesn't Jeff get all of his parts from Moss? It has been a while since I bought from him, but he was an early Moss seller that always offered discounts. I know that Moss holds him accountable to deal with unhappy customers, but they are Moss parts. Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 ----- Original Message ----- From: wbeech at flash.net To: "William Brewer" , "Triumphs" Sent: Wednesday, November 2, 2011 4:45:08 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Tonneaus Bill, Funny you should write at this time, I was just getting ready to send a picture to Jeff Zorn at LBCo with this same complaint, the steering wheel boot seems to be made for a 15" and not the standard 17" TR3 wheel. Also, the fit is horrible, I feel like I just flushed $400, $275 + $125 installation cost, down the hole. I don't like to trash anyone in a public forum but if there are others with problems with this tonneau I am sure Jeff would like to know. Best regards, Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2011 12:10 PM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] TR3A Tonneaus Years ago I bought a black tonneau from LBCarCo.com for my TR3A. It was on sale at a good price. It has been on my shelf for several years. Anyway, I opened it up to put on and am unhappy with the fit. The steering wheel cover part of the tonneau doesn't slide all the way over the original wheel and sticks up funny. The whole thing just doesn't look right to me, although this may be because my old ratty tonneau has lasted for so long and I was so used to it. Anyone else have a similar problem with a LBC tonneau? Any good deals on tonneaus out there? I went on line to buy another tonneau, but the big 3 seem to want a lot for one. I paid $35 for my last tonneau at a impromptu swap meet at a British car show (Ventura show ISTR). It was essentially new with no snaps installed. I am considering taking the top to my favorite interior shop and just having them copy it and install reinforcements where the original tore. TIA Bill in Tehachapi From sumton at sbcglobal.net Wed Nov 2 19:00:21 2011 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2011 21:00:21 -0500 Subject: [TR] Exhaust header/manifold ceramic coating In-Reply-To: <380-22011114303243275@M2W125.mail2web.com> References: <380-22011114303243275@M2W125.mail2web.com> Message-ID: <516DF56FB0EC4179BF57B0E3367184E5@ranteer.local> jet hot coating! 5 years? and counting. still looks beautiful. mine is polished silver. very pretty. plus I have another car that's plain unpolished black. should have gone with polished silver -------------------------------------------------- From: Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2011 7:32 PM To: Cc: Subject: Re: [TR] Exhaust header/manifold ceramic coating > I've always gone with Jet Hot, never a problem, and my Spitfire headers > (actually one of the first headers they coated when they started doing > buisness) still holding up today, and that was many many years ago! > > Barry > > Original Message: > ----------------- > > Anyone have good experiences with a vendor that ceramic coats exhaust > components? I have a TR6 header I would like to get ceramic coated (to > reduce under bonnet temperatures) and would like some references > beforehand. > I've run a google search so I have the usual suspects. From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Wed Nov 2 21:17:59 2011 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2011 21:17:59 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3A Tonneau Sources Message-ID: <1320293879.76360.YahooMailRC@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Have any listers purchased new tonneaus from MOSS or TRF recently? How was the fit and quality? TIA, -Bill in Tehachapi ----- Forwarded Message ---- From: William Brewer To: Triumphs Sent: Wed, November 2, 2011 10:10:16 AM Subject: TR3A Tonneaus Years ago I bought a black tonneau from LBCarCo.com for my TR3A. It was on sale at a good price. It has been on my shelf for several years. Anyway, I opened it up to put on and am unhappy with the fit. The steering wheel cover part of the tonneau doesn't slide all the way over the original wheel and sticks up funny. The whole thing just doesn't look right to me, although this may be because my old ratty tonneau has lasted for so long and I was so used to it. Anyone else have a similar problem with a LBC tonneau? Any good deals on tonneaus out there? I went on line to buy another tonneau, but the big 3 seem to want a lot for one. I paid $35 for my last tonneau at a impromptu swap meet at a British car show (Ventura show ISTR). It was essentially new with no snaps installed. I am considering taking the top to my favorite interior shop and just having them copy it and install reinforcements where the original tore. TIA Bill in Tehachapi From wbeech at flash.net Thu Nov 3 07:00:19 2011 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2011 09:00:19 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A Tonneaus In-Reply-To: <517773023.1605356.1320284098451.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <025404C41C9A43458CCE6109AEB2EDC1@bboffice> <517773023.1605356.1320284098451.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <8E539A2513314F3A8A638674EF1E0F28@bboffice> <> Yes, he is still a Moss reseller. At the same time that I sent the post yesterday I sent an email to Jeff Zorn at LBCo. Within an hour, Jeff responded to me to say he would contact the manufacturer and see what they had to say. He did however, say that historically once an item is installed it is not returnable, which is hard to swallow as there is no way to know if it is made right until it is installed. I am sure we have all had a problem with a product more than once in and out of the LBC arena. We all know that nothing is perfect but the real test is what will the dealer do about the problem. I have had issues with both TRF ands BPNW in the past and both were address quickly and I never felt I was being dodged. Now that Jeff has responded VERY promptly I can only wait to see what the resolution will be. Meanwhile, if there are any others that have had fit problems, not caused by installers, I am sure Jeff would be happy to hear from you so he can pass the data along to the manufacturer. Stay tuned for details, Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Thu Nov 3 07:17:50 2011 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2011 07:17:50 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3A Tonneaus In-Reply-To: <8E539A2513314F3A8A638674EF1E0F28@bboffice> References: <025404C41C9A43458CCE6109AEB2EDC1@bboffice> <517773023.1605356.1320284098451.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <8E539A2513314F3A8A638674EF1E0F28@bboffice> Message-ID: <1320329870.35080.YahooMailRC@web83304.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I too contacted Jeff and had the same quick response and results (can't be returned after installation has started). My tonneau is such a POS that I am not even bothering to finish installing it and will probably just buy another one from TRF or MOSS. -Bill in Tehachapi ----- Original Message ---- From: "wbeech at flash.net" To: suhringtr36 at comcast.net Cc: William Brewer ; Triumphs Sent: Thu, November 3, 2011 7:00:19 AM Subject: RE: [TR] TR3A Tonneaus <> Yes, he is still a Moss reseller. At the same time that I sent the post yesterday I sent an email to Jeff Zorn at LBCo. Within an hour, Jeff responded to me to say he would contact the manufacturer and see what they had to say. He did however, say that historically once an item is installed it is not returnable, which is hard to swallow as there is no way to know if it is made right until it is installed. I am sure we have all had a problem with a product more than once in and out of the LBC arena. We all know that nothing is perfect but the real test is what will the dealer do about the problem. I have had issues with both TRF ands BPNW in the past and both were address quickly and I never felt I was being dodged. Now that Jeff has responded VERY promptly I can only wait to see what the resolution will be. Meanwhile, if there are any others that have had fit problems, not caused by installers, I am sure Jeff would be happy to hear from you so he can pass the data along to the manufacturer. Stay tuned for details, Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Thu Nov 3 09:43:08 2011 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2011 09:43:08 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] toneau Message-ID: <1320338588.86220.YahooMailNeo@web65308.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> I'm also interested in what others experiences are that have fitted toneaus from various vendors. (tr-3) I'll be interested in buying one within the next few months. thanks gary n. From anabil007 at comcast.net Thu Nov 3 12:22:19 2011 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh) Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2011 12:22:19 -0700 Subject: [TR] Drive Away Cancer Now ... Message-ID: <0433EF7C-AB73-419E-906B-1BCD111FEF3C@comcast.net> AnnaBelle and I had the privilege to meet this guy at the Morgan Hill Roadster Show ... signed the car for a couple of friends. The story is is great, but he needed a lot of help along the way. Would it be appropriate to invite him to use the VTR "Helper" list? At least it would be a nice thread. Much more info on YouTube search Drive Away Cancer, or follow on his website: http://driveawaycancernow.org/ "Life is too short to drive Boring Cars" Bill Pugh Wallace, CA Casper 1957 TR3 TS16665L anabil007 at comcast.net From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Thu Nov 3 13:49:45 2011 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2011 13:49:45 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Drive Away Cancer Now ... In-Reply-To: <0433EF7C-AB73-419E-906B-1BCD111FEF3C@comcast.net> References: <0433EF7C-AB73-419E-906B-1BCD111FEF3C@comcast.net> Message-ID: <1320353385.31568.YahooMailNeo@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Bill im not in charge of the VTR helper list, though i am listed as a helper. i see form hi web site that he was on the dreaded 91 freeway here in the greater los angeles just 40 mins ago. feel free to give him my contact info and cell phone. id be more than happy to help him if he gets in trouble anyplace south of Santa Barbara to the Mexican border. Frank To: TR3/6 Sent: Thursday, November 3, 2011 12:22 PM Subject: [TR] Drive Away Cancer Now ... AnnaBelle and I had the privilege to meet this guy at the Morgan Hill Roadster Show ... signed the car for a couple of friends. The story is is great, but he needed a lot of help along the way. Would it be appropriate to invite him to use the VTR "Helper" list? At least it would be a nice thread. Much more info on YouTube search Drive Away Cancer, or follow on his website: http://driveawaycancernow.org/ "Life is too short to drive Boring Cars" Bill Pugh Wallace, CA Casper 1957 TR3 TS16665L anabil007 at comcast.net triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Thu Nov 3 16:41:46 2011 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2011 19:41:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] tr3 w/s gap? Message-ID: <598B67988649492A9C7125AA915B5C4E@DELL05639> The engine is running good. I've been admonished to turn my attention towards other things. The slave cylinder...no, I won't go there... IMME Windshield Installation: Not exactly remembering what I'd seen at car shows, I trimmed an end of the new bottom seal for the windshield. I only trimmed about an inch (or should I speak metric?). Since it was a trial fitting of windshield and stanchions (in situa?), a gap appeared seemingly bigger than what should have been. Surely the age of my scuttle hasn't made it shrink? The gap I'm talking about exisits on both ends of the windshield at the bottom. Whereas the middle of the car's windshield lays squarely on the new bottom seal, the ends of the w/s are about 1/2" away from the top of the scuttle. I bought this new tinted w/s off ebay from a glass dealer, and it was for a TR3. It fit my fram ok. What gives? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 TS71316 From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Thu Nov 3 18:48:40 2011 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2011 18:48:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Tonneau Sources In-Reply-To: <1320293879.76360.YahooMailRC@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <1320293879.76360.YahooMailRC@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Not really recent -- I got a TR3A tonneau from TRF 4 years ago. Mfg was Robbins and the fit and quality were fine. It sees a lot of use and still looks & works good. Geo On Wed, Nov 2, 2011 at 9:17 PM, William Brewer wrote: > Have any listers purchased new tonneaus from MOSS or TRF recently? How > was > the fit and quality? From jeremiah at curryclan.net Thu Nov 3 19:21:21 2011 From: jeremiah at curryclan.net (Jeremiah Curry) Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2011 20:21:21 -0600 Subject: [TR] head gasket ring of fire and superglue Message-ID: <8085AA8204DF4A499B738AE1C46EC3EC@littleone> So I need to replace my headgasket and thought I would do the ring of fire modification. However, my soldering is very very bad, so I thought I would try the superglue. However the headgasket (Payen) seems to be laminated in some sort of plastic that superglue will not stick to. I tried cleaning the area with soapy water first and I tried 2 brands of superglue, nothing seemed to help. Am I missing something? Thanks, Jeremiah From emanteno at comcast.net Thu Nov 3 20:45:24 2011 From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey) Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2011 22:45:24 -0500 Subject: [TR] head gasket ring of fire and superglue In-Reply-To: <8085AA8204DF4A499B738AE1C46EC3EC@littleone> References: <8085AA8204DF4A499B738AE1C46EC3EC@littleone> Message-ID: Which engine? When I've seen this done on the TRactor engines, the wire gets superglued to the top of the liners. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, Il On Thu, Nov 3, 2011 at 9:21 PM, Jeremiah Curry wrote: > So I need to replace my headgasket and thought I would do the ring of fire > modification. However, my soldering is very very bad, so I thought I would > try the superglue. However the headgasket (Payen) seems to be laminated in > some sort of plastic that superglue will not stick to. I tried cleaning the > area with soapy water first and I tried 2 brands of superglue, nothing > seemed to help. Am I missing something? > > > > Thanks, > > Jeremiah > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/emanteno at gmail.com From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Thu Nov 3 21:43:25 2011 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2011 21:43:25 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] (no subject) Message-ID: <1320381805.13152.YahooMailNeo@web39411.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hi List! I like many others have had my exhaust manifold jet coated with the shiny silver finish that resembles chome. I was told by jet coat that that finish is called 'Pewter'. they coat the inside as well as the outside & I thought that i received a yr. guarantee with it. I also have found no problem with the finish changing in the 3+ yr (over 20,000+ miles). I recall it costing me about $135 with coating & shipping both ways. I felt that was pretty cheap. I did clean up the rough surface with sandpaper to get a smoother finish (knowing that they would sandblast it before jet coating. I also taped up the threaded portion of the studs with a note saying not to finish the threaded part of the studs, as they suggested to me to do before I shipped it out to them. i recall the turn around time being a week.I figured about 2.5 days of shipping time to & another 2.5 days returning home. -Cosmo Kramer From trdoctor at aol.com Thu Nov 3 22:14:45 2011 From: trdoctor at aol.com (Sam Clark) Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2011 00:14:45 -0500 Subject: [TR] Brake Caliper Clearance Message-ID: <2BBD413D-F9B1-4BF1-A58B-94BF9F7DE822@aol.com> Tonight I was replacing my front brake pads to a higher performance version in preparation for a track day and encountered problems with the RH side. I attempted to do this in situ. LH side went well with the shims and pads going in ok. LH side has been problematic. The outer pad falls in but the inner one won't go in. Took the caliper off and manually pushed the pistons in. That didn't help. Upon closer inspection, the caliper is not centered with the rotor. Has anyone else had this problem? Should I shim the caliper to gain clearance? It needs to be moved to the center of the car. This is on a '72 TR6. Should I just have a brake shop take off .010 of the pad and be done with it? TIA Sam Clark From tedtsimx at bright.net Fri Nov 4 04:55:15 2011 From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher) Date: Fri, 04 Nov 2011 06:55:15 -0500 Subject: [TR] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <1320381805.13152.YahooMailNeo@web39411.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <1320381805.13152.YahooMailNeo@web39411.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4EB3D2A3.5070002@bright.net> Cosmo and list. I believe this discussion thread started about ceramic coating. JetHot, good company, is known for its quality coating.This,however, is normally an "appearance" coating. Nice finish and even has some self-healing properties if it is scratched. However, ceramic coating serves a different purpose. Ceramic coating is designedt o retain heat inside the header/manifold/exhaust. Keeping the heat inside makes the exhaust gasses flow faster -a good thing when you are trying to make power. A side perk is heat retention inside the header means less heat under the hood (bonnet). Ceramic coating gives a nice external appearance but not quite as nice as the JetHot or similar non-ceramic coatings. Ted On 11/3/2011 11:43 PM, Cosmo Kramer wrote: > Hi List! > I like many others have had my exhaust manifold jet coated with the > shiny silver finish that resembles chome. I was told by jet coat that that > finish is called 'Pewter'. they coat the inside as well as the outside& I > thought that i received a yr. guarantee with it. I also have found no problem > with the finish changing in the 3+ yr (over 20,000+ miles). I recall it > costing me about $135 with coating& shipping both ways. I felt that was > pretty cheap. I did clean up the rough surface with sandpaper to get a > smoother finish (knowing that they would sandblast it before jet coating. I > also taped up the threaded portion of the studs with a note saying not to > finish the threaded part of the studs, as they suggested to me to do before I > shipped it out to them. i recall the turn around time being a week.I figured > about 2.5 days of shipping time to& another 2.5 days returning home. > -Cosmo > Kramer > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tedtsimx at bright.net > -- Ted Schumacher tedtsimx at bright.net http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com 108 S. Jefferson St. Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877 Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.) Phone: 800.543.6648 (US& Canada) Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022 From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Fri Nov 4 06:08:00 2011 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2011 09:08:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <1320381805.13152.YahooMailNeo@web39411.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <1320381805.13152.YahooMailNeo@web39411.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I agree with Cosmo. My exhaust manifold had some rust pits I thought would have been blasted and smoothed out. It was blasted but I have shiny pits ... happy with their ceramic coating and feel underhood temps are lower. I think they have different performance options. If I did it again I'd smooth out the rust pits and remove any other irregularities before dropping it off. Also there were 2 or 3 jethot franchises in my state. Dropping off and picking up kept cost down further. From trmarty at hotmail.com Fri Nov 4 06:08:08 2011 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2011 09:08:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <4EB3D2A3.5070002@bright.net> References: <1320381805.13152.YahooMailNeo@web39411.mail.mud.yahoo.com>, <4EB3D2A3.5070002@bright.net> Message-ID: Kind of maybe. Without independent lab testing directly comparing the two I don't know what the actual difference is but I believe JetHot has been marketing their product for years touting some of the benefits you listed for ceramic coating. Ceramic might do a better job of it but I don't think you can rule JetHot out as a player in the heat insulator game. For 99% of the Triumph community JetHot is probably a viable option. I've been satisfied with it on my performance engine. I've been wrong before though :) Marty > Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2011 06:55:15 -0500 > From: tedtsimx at bright.net > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] (no subject) > > Cosmo and list. I believe this discussion thread started about ceramic > coating. JetHot, good company, is known for its quality > coating.This,however, is normally an "appearance" coating. Nice finish > and even has some self-healing properties if it is scratched. However, > ceramic coating serves a different purpose. Ceramic coating is > designedt o retain heat inside the header/manifold/exhaust. Keeping the > heat inside makes the exhaust gasses flow faster -a good thing when you > are trying to make power. A side perk is heat retention inside the > header means less heat under the hood (bonnet). Ceramic coating gives a > nice external appearance but not quite as nice as the JetHot or similar > non-ceramic coatings. Ted From yellowtr at adelphia.net Fri Nov 4 06:13:55 2011 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Fri, 04 Nov 2011 09:13:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] Exhaust header/manifold ceramic coating In-Reply-To: <516DF56FB0EC4179BF57B0E3367184E5@ranteer.local> References: <380-22011114303243275@M2W125.mail2web.com> <516DF56FB0EC4179BF57B0E3367184E5@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <4EB3E513.3060503@adelphia.net> I replied earlier on this thread about my plasma exhaust. Well I remembered the company: Paeco and here is the company website: http://www.paeco.com/PlasmaCoating.htm The coating is nickel not zinc as I believe I stated in my earlier reply. Bob From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Fri Nov 4 06:31:27 2011 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2011 06:31:27 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Rug Rat Seats in TR's Message-ID: <1320413487.12403.YahooMailNeo@web39409.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hi List! To the person that started this thread of wanting to know if his children were legal to ride in a TRIUMPH. As was stated before by another list person, YES it is legal as long as you use the proper approved law seat. I don't see any problem occurring if you do this. I started taking my grand daughter out in my TR4A when she was two years old, as a reward for her willing to help me work on the car. I had loosened the bolts that held the tranny cover on the floor pans & had her use the proper size socket, extension, & ratchet to finish removing them. I also had her help me do the assembling of the cover when the time came. Of course I had to Finnish up with the finial torquing because she didn't have the strength, but she was pretty close to that point by using the torque wrench with an extender bar. The next year, I had her help me rotate the wheels. again I had to help her remove the tyre off the wheel studs after she had loosen & removed each lug nut (again she was using an extension on a ratchet. This time I placed a piece of corrugated cardboard on the passenger seat before placing the child's approved seat on my leather seats, so as not to cause any harm to the TR seats from the sharp corners that are on the child's seat. Also she was now about 20 pounds heavier than the last time. It was a joy to see her enjoying the wind blowing her long hair ponytail about & the her smile from ear to ear. This year I taught her how to remove the spark plugs, gap them, & reinstall them into the engine. She's getting better in handling the torque wrench now. Because I have the engine out of the car now with the tranny off, because I want to install the Christian Marx's rear Engine Seal, I'm having her learn about marking the Flywheel at every 90^ so I can mark these points on the Fan Extension before I have them notched, as I have described in Cosmo's Repair Manual. This TRIUMPH has served many purpose in it's life. It taught me how to repair it (when I first obtained it I only knew where to put the gas & the key in it). It taught me how to use the computor (so I could send E-mails to the list, pictures to friends, & the use of many different programs. Like PFD that I used for the manual, how to cut & paste pictures when writing articles, & I'm wanting to learn how to edit movies from those that I've made with the TR4A going through the 'Tail of the Dragon' & many other rides). It has opened up my knowledge of machining, & location of industrial supply companies. It has also given me a chance to meet many of the VTR members & other TRIUMPH clubs & their cars. So to me, my TR4A has opened up many different worlds of learning & has paid for itself over & over again in the joys of enriching my life. -Cosmo Kramer From wbeech at flash.net Fri Nov 4 07:29:00 2011 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2011 09:29:00 -0500 Subject: [TR] Rug Rat Seats in TR's In-Reply-To: <1320413487.12403.YahooMailNeo@web39409.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <1320413487.12403.YahooMailNeo@web39409.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <3933EAC98A6B4974B37157F2F9584555@bboffice> Cosmo, What a great testimonial! I hope I can do something similar with my grandkids, the first of which is coming to visit this weekend. Maybe I can convince my daughter to let him take a ride in Tarbaby once around our driveway as I do not have the proper seating as yet and he is only 2-1/2yrs old. Have a great weekend, Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Cosmo Kramer Sent: Friday, November 04, 2011 8:31 AM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Rug Rat Seats in TR's Hi List! To the person that started this thread of wanting to know if his children were legal to ride in a TRIUMPH. As was stated before by another list person, YES it is legal as long as you use the proper approved law seat. I don't see any problem occurring if you do this. I started taking my grand daughter out in my TR4A when she was two years old, as a reward for her willing to help me work on the car. I had loosened the bolts that held the tranny cover on the floor pans & had her use the proper size socket, extension, & ratchet to finish removing them. I also had her help me do the assembling of the cover when the time came. Of course I had to Finnish up with the finial torquing because she didn't have the strength, but she was pretty close to that point by using the torque wrench with an extender bar. The next year, I had her help me rotate the wheels. again I had to help her remove the tyre off the wheel studs after she had loosen & removed each lug nut (again she was using an extension on a ratchet. This time I placed a piece of corrugated cardboard on the passenger seat before placing the child's approved seat on my leather seats, so as not to cause any harm to the TR seats from the sharp corners that are on the child's seat. Also she was now about 20 pounds heavier than the last time. It was a joy to see her enjoying the wind blowing her long hair ponytail about & the her smile from ear to ear. This year I taught her how to remove the spark plugs, gap them, & reinstall them into the engine. She's getting better in handling the torque wrench now. Because I have the engine out of the car now with the tranny off, because I want to install the Christian Marx's rear Engine Seal, I'm having her learn about marking the Flywheel at every 90^ so I can mark these points on the Fan Extension before I have them notched, as I have described in Cosmo's Repair Manual. This TRIUMPH has served many purpose in it's life. It taught me how to repair it (when I first obtained it I only knew where to put the gas & the key in it). It taught me how to use the computor (so I could send E-mails to the list, pictures to friends, & the use of many different programs. Like PFD that I used for the manual, how to cut & paste pictures when writing articles, & I'm wanting to learn how to edit movies from those that I've made with the TR4A going through the 'Tail of the Dragon' & many other rides). It has opened up my knowledge of machining, & location of industrial supply companies. It has also given me a chance to meet many of the VTR members & other TRIUMPH clubs & their cars. So to me, my TR4A has opened up many different worlds of learning & has paid for itself over & over again in the joys of enriching my life. -Cosmo Kramer triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Fri Nov 4 08:02:33 2011 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2011 08:02:33 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] tr3 w/s gap? Message-ID: <1320418953.88789.YahooMailRC@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Hi Paul, I don't think that our cars was made that well to start with. My car was rolled onto its side in the fire grass on the side side of the 405 freeway in LA before I got it. My car's W/S fit the same way. There is a flat seal (MOSS - Sealing rubber lower part 680-470) under the frame that should fill the gap. I also had a big gap between the stanchions and the cowl that ISTR filling with weatherstripping. Good luck. I drove to work today in the snow & rain and remembered all the places water gets in in a TR3. -Bill Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2011 19:41:46 -0400 From: "Paul Dorsey" To: Subject: [TR] tr3 w/s gap? Message-ID: <598B67988649492A9C7125AA915B5C4E at DELL05639> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" The engine is running good. I've been admonished to turn my attention towards other things. The slave cylinder...no, I won't go there... IMME Windshield Installation: Not exactly remembering what I'd seen at car shows, I trimmed an end of the new bottom seal for the windshield. I only trimmed about an inch (or should I speak metric?). Since it was a trial fitting of windshield and stanchions (in situa?), a gap appeared seemingly bigger than what should have been. Surely the age of my scuttle hasn't made it shrink? The gap I'm talking about exisits on both ends of the windshield at the bottom. Whereas the middle of the car's windshield lays squarely on the new bottom seal, the ends of the w/s are about 1/2" away from the top of the scuttle. I bought this new tinted w/s off ebay from a glass dealer, and it was for a TR3. It fit my fram ok. What gives? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 TS71316 From tony at tonydrews.com Fri Nov 4 08:39:30 2011 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Fri, 04 Nov 2011 10:39:30 -0500 Subject: [TR] Brake Caliper Clearance In-Reply-To: <2BBD413D-F9B1-4BF1-A58B-94BF9F7DE822@aol.com> References: <2BBD413D-F9B1-4BF1-A58B-94BF9F7DE822@aol.com> Message-ID: <20111104153942.AAD9A187949@autox.team.net> Sam, either solution will work - shim the caliper so that it's more centered or just have the pad shaved a little so it will go in. Tony Drews At 12:14 AM 11/4/2011, Sam Clark wrote: >Tonight I was replacing my front brake pads to a higher performance version in >preparation for a track day and encountered problems with the RH side. I >attempted to do this in situ. LH side went well with the shims and pads going >in ok. LH side has been problematic. The outer pad falls in but the inner >one won't go in. Took the caliper off and manually pushed the pistons in. >That didn't help. Upon closer inspection, the caliper is not centered with >the rotor. Has anyone else had this problem? Should I shim the caliper to >gain clearance? It needs to be moved to the center of the car. This is on a >'72 TR6. Should I just have a brake shop take off .010 of the pad and be done >with it? > >TIA >Sam Clark From n197tr4 at cs.com Fri Nov 4 08:52:59 2011 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2011 11:52:59 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] DRIVE AWAY CANCER Message-ID: <8CE6920F644E56F-2570-17A164@webmail-d145.sysops.aol.com> Bill Pugh, et. al., John Nikas is one of life's supremely interesting folks. He is one of our FOT racers and owns one of Kas' Sebring prepared TR4s. If you encounter him, he WILL have an impact on you. He moves quickly, so dont blink. Joe A. From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Fri Nov 4 09:41:19 2011 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2011 09:41:19 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] tr3 w/s gap? In-Reply-To: <1320418953.88789.YahooMailRC@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <1320418953.88789.YahooMailRC@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1320424879.18776.YahooMailNeo@web120217.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Paul also remember that the gasket has a curve to it. at least mine did. install it so the curve is curving toward the driver not toward the front of the car. Frank ________________________________ From: William Brewer To: Triumphs Sent: Friday, November 4, 2011 8:02 AM Subject: [TR] tr3 w/s gap? Hi Paul, I don't think that our cars was made that well to start with. My car was rolled onto its side in the fire grass on the side side of the 405 freeway in LA before I got it. My car's W/S fit the same way. There is a flat seal (MOSS - Sealing rubber lower part 680-470) under the frame that should fill the gap. I also had a big gap between the stanchions and the cowl that ISTR filling with weatherstripping. Good luck. I drove to work today in the snow & rain and remembered all the places water gets in in a TR3. -Bill Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2011 19:41:46 -0400 From: "Paul Dorsey" To: Subject: [TR] tr3 w/s gap? Message-ID: <598B67988649492A9C7125AA915B5C4E at DELL05639> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" The engine is running good. I've been admonished to turn my attention towards other things. The slave cylinder...no, I won't go there... IMME Windshield Installation: Not exactly remembering what I'd seen at car shows, I trimmed an end of the new bottom seal for the windshield. I only trimmed about an inch (or should I speak metric?). Since it was a trial fitting of windshield and stanchions (in situa?), a gap appeared seemingly bigger than what should have been. Surely the age of my scuttle hasn't made it shrink? The gap I'm talking about exisits on both ends of the windshield at the bottom. Whereas the middle of the car's windshield lays squarely on the new bottom seal, the ends of the w/s are about 1/2" away from the top of the scuttle. I bought this new tinted w/s off ebay from a glass dealer, and it was for a TR3. It fit my fram ok. What gives? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 TS71316 triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From davewillner at pa.net Fri Nov 4 09:47:32 2011 From: davewillner at pa.net (davewillner) Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2011 12:47:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] tr3 w/s gap? References: <1320418953.88789.YahooMailRC@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I think the problem is that the seal looks way too long off the car and most people trim just a little too much off and it ends up short when you put it back on the car, even though you think you're being conservative and cutting off just enough. I think it's the curve in the scuttle that throws me off... I've cut it short several times over the years...good news is their cheap, but not too much fun installing Dave Willner Stroudsburg PA 59 TR3A 70 MGB 70 BSA 441 VS ----- Original Message ----- From: "William Brewer" To: "Triumphs" Sent: Friday, November 04, 2011 11:02 AM Subject: [TR] tr3 w/s gap? > Hi Paul, > I don't think that our cars was made that well to start with. My car > was > rolled onto its side in the fire grass on the side side of the 405 freeway > in LA > before I got it. > My car's W/S fit the same way. There is a flat seal (MOSS - Sealing > rubber > lower part 680-470) under the frame that should fill the gap. I also had > a big > gap between the stanchions and the cowl that ISTR filling with > weatherstripping. > Good luck. > I drove to work today in the snow & rain and remembered all the places > water gets in in a TR3. > > -Bill > > > Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2011 19:41:46 -0400 > From: "Paul Dorsey" > To: > Subject: [TR] tr3 w/s gap? > Message-ID: <598B67988649492A9C7125AA915B5C4E at DELL05639> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > The engine is running good. I've been admonished to turn my attention > towards > other things. The slave cylinder...no, I won't go there... IMME > > Windshield Installation: > Not exactly remembering what I'd seen at car shows, I trimmed an end of > the > new bottom seal for the windshield. I only trimmed about an inch (or > should I > speak metric?). Since it was a trial fitting of windshield and stanchions > (in > situa?), a gap appeared seemingly bigger than what should have been. > Surely > the age of my scuttle hasn't made it shrink? > > The gap I'm talking about exisits on both ends of the windshield at the > bottom. Whereas the middle of the car's windshield lays squarely on the > new > bottom seal, the ends of the w/s are about 1/2" away from the top of the > scuttle. I bought this new tinted w/s off ebay from a glass dealer, and > it > was for a TR3. It fit my fram ok. What gives? > > Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 TS71316 > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/davewillner at pa.net From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Fri Nov 4 10:23:13 2011 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2011 10:23:13 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 Parking Brake Indicator Light? Message-ID: <1320427393.22888.YahooMailRC@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> My wife loves to drive my TR. Unfortunately, she isn't very alert or knowledgeable and has managed to drive it with the parking brake on 3 times now. She also did it to my truck and set the rear axle on fire, but that's another story. So, she just burned the powdercoating off of the brake drums for the 3rd time. I am considering installing some sort of proximity switch with an indicator light or audible alarm to see if this would stop her from doing it a 4th time. Has anyone else done this or know off hand if one is premade at a FLAPS? I could start another thread about my wife's incidents backing out of the garage with the rear hatch open (up) on her van, but I'll spare you that one. TIA, Bill in Tehachapi From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Fri Nov 4 10:25:43 2011 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2011 10:25:43 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 Fickering Headlights Message-ID: <1320427543.99525.YahooMailRC@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Many thanks to everyone's help on diagnosing the flickering headlight problem. It turned out to be a broken wire at the switch, so Randall was correct. -Bill in Tehahcapi From: "Randall" To: "'Triumphs'" Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Fickering Headlights Message-ID: <007f01cc9641$eb530930$0501a8c0 at randall> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > How about insufficient grounding? Not likely given Bill's description, IMO, since each headlight is grounded separately, as are the dash lights. It's very unlikely that all 3 grounds would open up at the same time. -- Randall From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Fri Nov 4 11:46:48 2011 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2011 11:46:48 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 Fickering Headlights In-Reply-To: <1320427543.99525.YahooMailRC@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <1320427543.99525.YahooMailRC@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1320432408.49398.YahooMailNeo@web120214.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> so Randall was correct. Huh! who would have bet against that? ________________________________ From: William Brewer To: Triumphs Sent: Friday, November 4, 2011 10:25 AM Subject: [TR] TR3 Fickering Headlights Many thanks to everyone's help on diagnosing the flickering headlight problem. It turned out to be a broken wire at the switch, so Randall was correct. -Bill in Tehahcapi From: "Randall" To: "'Triumphs'" Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Fickering Headlights Message-ID: <007f01cc9641$eb530930$0501a8c0 at randall> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > How about insufficient grounding? Not likely given Bill's description, IMO, since each headlight is grounded separately, as are the dash lights. It's very unlikely that all 3 grounds would open up at the same time. -- Randall triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From anncarletta at yahoo.com Fri Nov 4 12:47:09 2011 From: anncarletta at yahoo.com (Ann Carletta) Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2011 12:47:09 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Bill's wife Message-ID: <1320436029.81880.YahooMailNeo@web113801.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Hey Bill, Just curious,. Was your wife mad at you (that you realized) just before each of the mishaps? Maybe she's not that clueless. From adrianjones747 at earthlink.net Fri Nov 4 12:58:24 2011 From: adrianjones747 at earthlink.net (Adrian Jones) Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2011 15:58:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Parking Brake Indicator Light? Message-ID: <00fc01cc9b2c$1cf227c0$56d67740$@net> This has been a problem for me also - but it is not the wife who drives with the parking brake on. The best I've come up with so far is to attach a 3" length of that foamy-plastic stuff on to the end of the brake lever whenever I park. This foamy stuff apparently is for cheer leaders to wave around - it looks like water pipe insulation but you can get in bright orange from the dollar store. It attracts your attention when you get in the car. Also comes in useful to protect a cheapo xenon flash light if/when its dropped. Obviously a buzzer would be preferable so I anxiously await any responses. Cheers! From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Nov 4 15:54:52 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2011 15:54:52 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Parking Brake Indicator Light? In-Reply-To: <00fc01cc9b2c$1cf227c0$56d67740$@net> References: <00fc01cc9b2c$1cf227c0$56d67740$@net> Message-ID: <064b01cc9b44$c3d74c10$0501a8c0@randall> So far, it's not been a problem for me. I don't always use the handbrake, but when I do, I make sure to set it hard enough that it is very obvious the brake is set. However, micro switches are inexpensive and readily available. It shouldn't be too hard to build a simple bracket that would hold a switch up against the bottom of the brake handle. You'll likely also want some sort of enclosure for it to help keep dirt away from the switch. Hermetically sealed switches are available, but they are much more expensive. Offhand, I think an Altoids can would do nicely for the enclosure, once you cut a small slot for the lever to stick out of. Adapting a switch from some other car would be much more complicated, IMO. Usually they have the contacts designed right into the handle or center console. -- Randall From Loumetelko at aol.com Fri Nov 4 16:39:08 2011 From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com) Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2011 19:39:08 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 Parking Brake Indicator Light? Message-ID: <7146a.13de0f8e.3be5d19b@aol.com> This has been a problem for me also - but it is not the wife who drives with the parking brake on. If you or any member of the family are not engaging the parking brake strong enough to at least feel some sort of drag then it is a simple solution to just disconnect the cable! Lou Metelko Auburn, Indiana From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Fri Nov 4 19:14:03 2011 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2011 19:14:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] Brake Caliper Clearance In-Reply-To: <2BBD413D-F9B1-4BF1-A58B-94BF9F7DE822@aol.com> References: <2BBD413D-F9B1-4BF1-A58B-94BF9F7DE822@aol.com> Message-ID: I prefer the shims as you end with a nice centered caliper now and forever. Pretty easy to make the shims, easier still if you have one handy as a pattern. As I usually need to use a couple of shims I tie them in place with some dental floss thru the holes, then assemble the brackets and bolts. You really need something (like the floss) to keep all the bits together as you assemble. Geo From triumphs at consolidated.net Fri Nov 4 21:52:13 2011 From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Ken Gano, home PC) Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2011 23:52:13 -0500 Subject: [TR] Rug Rat Seats in TR's References: <1320413487.12403.YahooMailNeo@web39409.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <78ED89AEFACA4DCF82BA7DC99F22DEEF@SONYATHOME> Great story. I remember my Dad stuffing 2 or 3 1st and 2nd graders in the TR3 and giving rides, but, of course, that was 1959 or 1960 and no one had ever heard of seat belts, much less car seats :-) It clearly would not be "legal" today, but we all seemed to survive. kg ----- Original Message ----- From: "Cosmo Kramer" To: Sent: Friday, November 04, 2011 8:31 AM Subject: [TR] Rug Rat Seats in TR's > Hi > List! > To the person that started this thread of wanting to know if his > children were legal to ride in a TRIUMPH. As was stated before by another > list > person, YES it is legal as long as you use the proper approved law seat. I > don't see any problem occurring if you do this. I started taking my grand > daughter out in my TR4A when she was two years old, as a reward for her > willing to help me work on the car. I had loosened the bolts that held the > tranny cover on the floor pans & had her use the proper size socket, > extension, & ratchet to finish removing them. I also had her help me do > the > assembling of the cover when the time came. Of course I had to Finnish up > with > the finial torquing because she didn't have the strength, but she was > pretty > close to that point by using the torque wrench with an extender bar. The > next > year, I had her help me rotate the wheels. again I had to help her remove > the > tyre off the wheel studs after she had loosen & removed each lug nut > (again she was using an extension on a ratchet. This time I placed a piece > of > corrugated cardboard on the passenger seat before placing the child's > approved > seat on my leather seats, so as not to cause any harm to the TR seats from > the > sharp corners that are on the child's seat. Also she was now about 20 > pounds > heavier than the last time. It was a joy to see her enjoying the wind > blowing > her long hair ponytail about & the her smile from ear to ear. This year I > taught her how to remove the spark plugs, gap them, & reinstall them into > the > engine. She's getting better in handling the torque wrench now. Because I > have > the engine out of the car now with the tranny off, because I want to > install > the Christian Marx's rear Engine Seal, I'm having her learn about marking > the > Flywheel at every 90^ so I can mark these points on the Fan Extension > before I > have them notched, as I have described in Cosmo's Repair Manual. > > This > TRIUMPH has served many purpose in it's life. It taught me how to repair > it > (when I first obtained it I only knew where to put the gas & the key in > it). > It taught me how to use the computor (so I could send E-mails to the list, > pictures to friends, & the use of many different programs. Like PFD that > I > used for the manual, how to cut & paste pictures when writing articles, & > I'm > wanting to learn how to edit movies from those that I've made with the > TR4A > going through the 'Tail of the Dragon' & many other rides). It has opened > up > my knowledge of machining, & location of industrial supply companies. > > It has > also given me a chance to meet many of the VTR members & other TRIUMPH > clubs & > their cars. So to me, my TR4A has opened up many different worlds of > learning > & has paid for itself over & over again in the joys of enriching my life. > -Cosmo Kramer > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumphs at consolidated.net > > > ----- > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 2012.0.1834 / Virus Database: 2092/4594 - Release Date: 11/03/11 From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Sat Nov 5 06:17:17 2011 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (Paul Dorsey) Date: Sat, 5 Nov 2011 09:17:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] tr3 w/s gap? References: <1320418953.88789.YahooMailRC@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <1320424879.18776.YahooMailNeo@web120217.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <9B92C6F59B7D495D83AB8CAD483136FE@DELL05639> Frank and others, Are you sure that the curve goes toward the driver? The way that I now have tried the bottom seal is with the curve going away from the driver. That way it continues under the stanchion mounts and following the stanchions curvature. (even though the seal will get trimmed so that the stanchions and scuttle are metal to metal). I wish I had a picture to go by. Paul ----- Original Message ----- From: "Frank Fisher" To: "William Brewer" ; "Triumphs" Sent: Friday, November 04, 2011 12:41 PM Subject: Re: [TR] tr3 w/s gap? > Paul > also remember that the gasket has a curve to it. at least mine did. > install it so the curve is curving toward the driver not toward the front > of > the car. > Frank > > > ________________________________ > From: William Brewer > > To: Triumphs > Sent: Friday, > November 4, 2011 8:02 AM > Subject: [TR] tr3 w/s gap? > > Hi Paul, > I don't > think that our cars was made that well to start with. My car was > rolled onto > its side in the fire grass on the side side of the 405 freeway in LA > before I > got it. > My car's W/S fit the same way. There is a flat seal (MOSS - > Sealing rubber > lower part 680-470) under the frame that should fill the gap. > I also had a big > gap between the stanchions and the cowl that ISTR filling > with weatherstripping. > Good luck. > I drove to work today in the snow & > rain and remembered all the places > water gets in in a TR3. > > -Bill > > > Date: > Thu, 3 Nov 2011 19:41:46 -0400 > From: "Paul Dorsey" > To: > > Subject: [TR] tr3 w/s gap? > Message-ID: > <598B67988649492A9C7125AA915B5C4E at DELL05639> > Content-Type: text/plain; > charset="us-ascii" > > The engine is running good. I've been admonished to turn > my attention towards > other things. The slave cylinder...no, I won't go > there... IMME > > Windshield Installation: > Not exactly remembering what I'd seen > at car shows, I trimmed an end of the > new bottom seal for the windshield. I > only trimmed about an inch (or should I > speak metric?). Since it was a trial > fitting of windshield and stanchions (in > situa?), a gap appeared seemingly > bigger than what should have been. Surely > the age of my scuttle hasn't made > it shrink? > > The gap I'm talking about exisits on both ends of the windshield > at the > bottom. Whereas the middle of the car's windshield lays squarely on > the new > bottom seal, the ends of the w/s are about 1/2" away from the top of > the > scuttle. I bought this new tinted w/s off ebay from a glass dealer, and > it > was for a TR3. It fit my fram ok. What gives? > > Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 > TR3 TS71316 > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: > http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: > http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dorpaul at bellsouth.net From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Sat Nov 5 07:48:37 2011 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Sat, 5 Nov 2011 10:48:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] At VIR Gold cup race today Message-ID: Awesome day great racing. From wbeech at flash.net Sat Nov 5 09:18:59 2011 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Sat, 5 Nov 2011 11:18:59 -0500 Subject: [TR] tr3 w/s gap? In-Reply-To: <9B92C6F59B7D495D83AB8CAD483136FE@DELL05639> References: <1320418953.88789.YahooMailRC@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com><1320424879.18776.YahooMailNeo@web120217.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <9B92C6F59B7D495D83AB8CAD483136FE@DELL05639> Message-ID: <669F17DAB0A444CB9813E4C2B8315C25@bboffice> Paul, If you look real close near the middle of the seal it should say 'front' or 'rear' to aid in the proper orientation of the seal. Mine came from TRF and had this on it. Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul Dorsey Sent: Saturday, November 05, 2011 8:17 AM To: Frank Fisher; William Brewer; Triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] tr3 w/s gap? Frank and others, Are you sure that the curve goes toward the driver? The way that I now have tried the bottom seal is with the curve going away from the driver. That way it continues under the stanchion mounts and following the stanchions curvature. (even though the seal will get trimmed so that the stanchions and scuttle are metal to metal). I wish I had a picture to go by. Paul ----- Original Message ----- From: "Frank Fisher" To: "William Brewer" ; "Triumphs" Sent: Friday, November 04, 2011 12:41 PM Subject: Re: [TR] tr3 w/s gap? > Paul > also remember that the gasket has a curve to it. at least mine did. > install it so the curve is curving toward the driver not toward the front > of > the car. > Frank > > > ________________________________ > From: William Brewer > > To: Triumphs > Sent: Friday, > November 4, 2011 8:02 AM > Subject: [TR] tr3 w/s gap? > > Hi Paul, > I don't > think that our cars was made that well to start with. My car was > rolled onto > its side in the fire grass on the side side of the 405 freeway in LA > before I > got it. > My car's W/S fit the same way. There is a flat seal (MOSS - > Sealing rubber > lower part 680-470) under the frame that should fill the gap. > I also had a big > gap between the stanchions and the cowl that ISTR filling > with weatherstripping. > Good luck. > I drove to work today in the snow & > rain and remembered all the places > water gets in in a TR3. > > -Bill > > > Date: > Thu, 3 Nov 2011 19:41:46 -0400 > From: "Paul Dorsey" > To: > > Subject: [TR] tr3 w/s gap? > Message-ID: > <598B67988649492A9C7125AA915B5C4E at DELL05639> > Content-Type: text/plain; > charset="us-ascii" > > The engine is running good. I've been admonished to turn > my attention towards > other things. The slave cylinder...no, I won't go > there... IMME > > Windshield Installation: > Not exactly remembering what I'd seen > at car shows, I trimmed an end of the > new bottom seal for the windshield. I > only trimmed about an inch (or should I > speak metric?). Since it was a trial > fitting of windshield and stanchions (in > situa?), a gap appeared seemingly > bigger than what should have been. Surely > the age of my scuttle hasn't made > it shrink? > > The gap I'm talking about exisits on both ends of the windshield > at the > bottom. Whereas the middle of the car's windshield lays squarely on > the new > bottom seal, the ends of the w/s are about 1/2" away from the top of > the > scuttle. I bought this new tinted w/s off ebay from a glass dealer, and > it > was for a TR3. It fit my fram ok. What gives? > > Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 > TR3 TS71316 > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: > http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: > http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dorpaul at bellsouth.net triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From jeremiah at curryclan.net Sat Nov 5 09:23:50 2011 From: jeremiah at curryclan.net (Jeremiah Curry) Date: Sat, 5 Nov 2011 10:23:50 -0600 Subject: [TR] head gasket ring of fire and superglue In-Reply-To: References: <8085AA8204DF4A499B738AE1C46EC3EC@littleone> Message-ID: It is a TR3 engine, but looking at Randalls pictures he was putting the rings on the gasket. The advantage I see there is that you can align perfectly around the existing ridge, If I just put it on the liners, it would likely be going over the ridge of the gasket in some places. Maybe it doesn't matter if it is that exact? Thanks, Jeremiah _____ From: emanteno at gmail.com [mailto:emanteno at gmail.com] On Behalf Of Irv Korey Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2011 9:45 PM To: Jeremiah Curry Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] head gasket ring of fire and superglue Which engine? When I've seen this done on the TRactor engines, the wire gets superglued to the top of the liners. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, Il On Thu, Nov 3, 2011 at 9:21 PM, Jeremiah Curry wrote: So I need to replace my headgasket and thought I would do the ring of fire modification. However, my soldering is very very bad, so I thought I would try the superglue. However the headgasket (Payen) seems to be laminated in some sort of plastic that superglue will not stick to. I tried cleaning the area with soapy water first and I tried 2 brands of superglue, nothing seemed to help. Am I missing something? Thanks, Jeremiah triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/emanteno at gmail.com From koblinger at verizon.net Sat Nov 5 21:30:54 2011 From: koblinger at verizon.net (Kurt Oblinger) Date: Sat, 05 Nov 2011 21:30:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] Wanted - 16P Caliper - Dust Shields - Hub Puller Message-ID: <4EB60D7E.9000203@verizon.net> Hi gang, I am in need of a few parts for a Sports 6 project. I need a right hand disk brake caliper, Lockheed 16P, as fitted to '66 to early '69 GT6, TR4 (except early), TR4A, TR250 and possibly early TR6. The letters "16P" are cast into the caliper near one of the mounting holes. I need a right hand only but if you have a pair and don't want to end up with an orphan I'd be willing to buy the pair. Also looking for the rotor dust shields from a GT6 '66 - to '68. I have a pair but they are a bit beat up so I am looking for a set in better shape. Lastly, I am looking to borrow or rent a Churchill style rear hub puller for the small chassis Triumph. LA area would be preferred. Thanks, Kurt Oblinger Redondo Beach, Ca. From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Sun Nov 6 07:10:31 2011 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2011 06:10:31 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Hand Brake left on Message-ID: <1320588631.39038.YahooMailNeo@web39424.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hi List! Well I thought that Randall had a good idea of placing a switch on the Hand Brake (HB). The type that works like the refrigerator switch. When the door is closed (the HB is down & not engaged), the light is off. Then when the door is opened (the HB is engaged), the light would go on. To carry this one step future: Set the wiring up in such a way so when the HB is engaged (light is on), that the ignition circuit is disengaged (car won't start). This could easy be done with a switch that would works in the reverse way the refrigerator switch works (or like a standard 'on-off' switch is), but with a 'button style' like the refrigerator switch is with a spring inside it. NOW, there is no way she (or anyone else) can start the car to drive it with the HB on or engaged). This would work as an anti-theft device, too! OR An automatic 'Kill Switch'. If you were driving along & say your brakes gave out (like a leak in the MC or Brake Line) then once you lifted the HB, The engine would die & the HB would be engaged & the brakes as well. Now if you released the HB the engine would be off & the car's gears engaged until you pressed in the clutch peddle or placed the tranny in Neutral. Just a thought?-Cosmo Kramer From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sun Nov 6 08:08:40 2011 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sun, 06 Nov 2011 10:08:40 -0500 Subject: [TR] Hand Brake left on In-Reply-To: <1320588631.39038.YahooMailNeo@web39424.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <1320588631.39038.YahooMailNeo@web39424.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Although enticing there are times when you may not want a 'kill switch' connected to the handbrake - like when you are working on the car - in neutral - front (or rear) on stands and you want to run the engine. Now if there could be an override switch in sequence (OR whatever) that may eliminate that issue. G<- HB -> KS -> IGn may need a diode or something on the switch to prevent reverse flow. G <- ORs / Randall (our resident Electrical genius) - your thoughts? -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Cosmo Kramer Sent: Sunday, November 06, 2011 9:11 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Hand Brake left on Hi List! Well I thought that Randall had a good idea of placing a switch on the Hand Brake (HB). The type that works like the refrigerator switch. When the door is closed (the HB is down & not engaged), the light is off. Then when the door is opened (the HB is engaged), the light would go on. To carry this one step future: Set the wiring up in such a way so when the HB is engaged (light is on), that the ignition circuit is disengaged (car won't start). This could easy be done with a switch that would works in the reverse way the refrigerator switch works (or like a standard 'on-off' switch is), but with a 'button style' like the refrigerator switch is with a spring inside it. NOW, there is no way she (or anyone else) can start the car to drive it with the HB on or engaged). This would work as an anti-theft device, too! OR An automatic 'Kill Switch'. If you were driving along & say your brakes gave out (like a leak in the MC or Brake Line) then once you lifted the HB, The engine would die & the HB would be engaged & the brakes as well. Now if you released the HB the engine would be off & the car's gears engaged until you pressed in the clutch peddle or placed the tranny in Neutral. Just a thought?-Cosmo Kramer triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net From ambritts at bellsouth.net Sun Nov 6 08:40:09 2011 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2011 10:40:09 -0500 Subject: [TR] Hand Brake left on In-Reply-To: <1320588631.39038.YahooMailNeo@web39424.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <1320588631.39038.YahooMailNeo@web39424.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <6732AC8227F4427483017BF8B6DE231B@AlexPC> I see a need on my TR3A overdrive switch. When left in the on position it drains the battery in about 2 days. I probably have it wired wrong....but this would work for me in this application. Alex Manzo 59 TR3A ----- Original Message ----- From: "Cosmo Kramer" To: Sent: Sunday, November 06, 2011 9:10 AM Subject: [TR] Hand Brake left on > Hi List! > Well I thought that Randall had a good idea of placing a switch on > the Hand Brake (HB). The type that works like the refrigerator switch. > When > the door is closed (the HB is down & not engaged), the light is off. Then > when > the door is opened (the HB is engaged), the light would go on. > To carry this > one step future: > Set the wiring up in such a way so when the HB is engaged > (light is on), that the ignition circuit is disengaged (car won't start). > This > could easy be done with a switch that would works in the reverse way the > refrigerator switch works (or like a standard 'on-off' switch is), but > with a > 'button style' like the refrigerator switch is with a spring inside it. > NOW, > there is no way she (or anyone else) can start the car to drive it with > the > HB on or engaged). > > This would work as an anti-theft device, too! OR An > automatic 'Kill Switch'. If you were driving along & say your brakes gave > out > (like a leak in the MC or Brake Line) then once you lifted the HB, The > engine > would die & the HB would be engaged & the brakes as well. Now if you > released > the HB the engine would be off & the car's gears engaged until you pressed > in > the clutch peddle or placed the tranny in Neutral. > Just a thought?-Cosmo > Kramer From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Nov 6 10:12:46 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2011 09:12:46 -0800 Subject: [TR] Hand Brake left on In-Reply-To: <6732AC8227F4427483017BF8B6DE231B@AlexPC> References: <1320588631.39038.YahooMailNeo@web39424.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <6732AC8227F4427483017BF8B6DE231B@AlexPC> Message-ID: <0bce01cc9ca7$4e62a1a0$eb27e4e0$@rr.com> > I see a need on my TR3A overdrive switch. When left in the on position > it > drains the battery in about 2 days. I probably have it wired > wrong. But wouldn't it be simpler to just wire the OD correctly? -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Nov 6 11:43:46 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2011 10:43:46 -0800 Subject: [TR] Hand Brake left on In-Reply-To: References: <1320588631.39038.YahooMailNeo@web39424.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <0bde01cc9cb4$0473b540$0d5b1fc0$@rr.com> > Randall (our resident Electrical genius) - your thoughts? IMO the whole lockout idea would not suit me at all. For one thing, I generally start the engine first, with the handbrake still set, so that I can use my right foot on the throttle (as needed to keep the engine running for the first few revolutions) and still have the brakes set. Although you can "heel and toe", it's a lot easier with the handbrake IMO. And on my TR3 (which doesn't have a front bumper at the moment), there is a very flimsy edge of sheet metal that would contact the curb if I let the car roll forward just a few inches while starting. Having an override switch just moves the problem to a new level. If you use a switch that will stay in the override position, then it's just as easy to forget as the handbrake, which kind of defeats the purpose. If you use a momentary switch, then it becomes really difficult to start the engine from under the hood. Besides, I really dislike cars that think they know what I want better than I do. There are just too many times when I want to do something unusual, and I don't want the car getting in my way. One of the attractions of the TR3, to me, is that it will try to do whatever you ask it to do; no backtalk, no question. But if you really want to do this, my approach would be to use a relay, and let the handbrake or override switch ground the coil (similar to the way the OD lockout switches ground the OD relay coil). That way you don't have a hot wire running down to the handbrake switch. Worst case, if the wire to the handbrake switch shorts to ground, then the switch simply becomes inoperative and the car is not disabled, set on fire, etc. And a latching override switch could simply be in parallel with the handbrake switch. I think to use a momentary override would require either a special relay or a second standard relay. Might be a way to do it with a single standard SPDT relay plus a resistor, but the resistor value would depend on the relay characteristics. -- Randall From fishplate at charter.net Sun Nov 6 12:52:51 2011 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff) Date: Sun, 06 Nov 2011 14:52:51 -0500 Subject: [TR] Hand Brake left on In-Reply-To: <0bde01cc9cb4$0473b540$0d5b1fc0$@rr.com> References: <1320588631.39038.YahooMailNeo@web39424.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <0bde01cc9cb4$0473b540$0d5b1fc0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <4EB6E593.8040703@charter.net> On 11/6/2011 1:43 PM, Randall wrote: > But if you really want to do this, my approach would be to use a relay, and > let the handbrake or override switch ground the coil (similar to the way the > OD lockout switches ground the OD relay coil). That's as elegant a solution as any, but for the O.P., why not wire the handbrake switch to a really big red light on the dash? An LED would be unobtrusive when off, but you can get some that are incredibly bright when illuminated, so you wouldn't miss it. Far easier than a series of relays and interlocks... Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Sun Nov 6 13:47:55 2011 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2011 12:47:55 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] hand brake left on Message-ID: <1320612475.51149.YahooMailNeo@web65316.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> ummmm.........just buy brake pads a little more often. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Nov 6 13:51:37 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2011 12:51:37 -0800 Subject: [TR] Hand Brake left on In-Reply-To: <4EB6E593.8040703@charter.net> References: <1320588631.39038.YahooMailNeo@web39424.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <0bde01cc9cb4$0473b540$0d5b1fc0$@rr.com> <4EB6E593.8040703@charter.net> Message-ID: <0c0501cc9cc5$e12d3b30$a387b190$@rr.com> > why not wire the > handbrake switch to a really big red light on the dash? You can also get audible alarms that are really obnoxious. This one http://www.mallory-sonalert.com/sounds/SCE%20Pulsers/SU1.wav is available to roughly 100 db, which is above the OSHA limit. Makes my eyes water, just waiting for it to speed up (it does get faster). -- Randall From davewillner at pa.net Sun Nov 6 14:10:38 2011 From: davewillner at pa.net (davewillner) Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2011 16:10:38 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 rear wheel noise Message-ID: <1A2C858772994FB08F07EC09E5FF2E37@valued9cfc0b6f> This weekend I acquired a new squeal from my right rear wheel, only when I turn right...I recently replaced my brakes; drums, shoes, wheel cylinders, etc...put about 250 miles since then no problems. Any thoughts on a diagnosis? Thanks Dave Willner Stroudsburg PA 59 TR3A 70 MGB 70 BSA 441 VS From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Nov 6 15:46:22 2011 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2011 17:46:22 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] TR3 rear wheel noise Message-ID: <289b4.a1eaabe.3be8683e@cs.com> In a message dated 11/6/2011 4:02:57 PM Central Standard Time, davewillner at pa.net writes: > This weekend I acquired a new squeal from my right rear wheel, only when > I > turn right...I recently replaced my brakes; drums, shoes, wheel cylinders, > etc...put about 250 miles since then no problems. Any thoughts on a > diagnosis? Thanks > Are you sure it is the rear? Disc brakes are notirious for squeeling if everthing is not quite right. Also, did your old wheel cylinders leak? Are your new cylinders leaking? brake fluid on the shoes can cause this kind of problem. Dave From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk Sun Nov 6 16:12:48 2011 From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2011 23:12:48 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] Handbrake warning light Message-ID: <1320621168.89921.YahooMailNeo@web29419.mail.ird.yahoo.com> Handbrake warning lights were normal factory fit progressively on all Standard-Triumph saloon cars from 1965 onwards, with the Triumph 1300 fwd, though the Triumph 2000 of 1962 onwards may also be eligible. My own two Innsbrucks ('70 and 73) each had a simple interior light type switch at the base of the handbrake lever. Triumphless now so I can't check their specifics. Stag shared many similar fittings and features and perhaps Randall can confirm this as he has one (?) and I don't. It's surely no big sweat to fashion a simple switch bracket for the lever and then use, for example, a Spitfire brake pedal switch? Jonmac http://standard-triumph-books.co.uk/ From fishplate at charter.net Sun Nov 6 17:21:16 2011 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff) Date: Sun, 06 Nov 2011 19:21:16 -0500 Subject: [TR] Hand Brake left on In-Reply-To: <0c0501cc9cc5$e12d3b30$a387b190$@rr.com> References: <1320588631.39038.YahooMailNeo@web39424.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <0bde01cc9cb4$0473b540$0d5b1fc0$@rr.com> <4EB6E593.8040703@charter.net> <0c0501cc9cc5$e12d3b30$a387b190$@rr.com> Message-ID: <4EB7247C.6070404@charter.net> On 11/6/2011 3:51 PM, Randall wrote: > You can also get audible alarms that are really obnoxious. This one > http://www.mallory-sonalert.com/sounds/SCE%20Pulsers/SU1.wav > is available to roughly 100 db, which is above the OSHA limit. Yeah. Thanks a lot for that, Randall... Deaf Jeff From anabil007 at comcast.net Sun Nov 6 17:21:22 2011 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh) Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2011 16:21:22 -0800 Subject: [TR] Hand Brake left on In-Reply-To: <1320588631.39038.YahooMailNeo@web39424.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <1320588631.39038.YahooMailNeo@web39424.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <3185F20C-6867-4B6D-9D2C-DAE6D6BEAC9A@comcast.net> Me thinks if you can drive the car with the handbrake on ... you have not properly adjusted the system ... On Nov 6, 2011, at 6:10 AM, Cosmo Kramer wrote: > Hi List! > Well I thought that Randall had a good idea of placing a switch on > the Hand Brake (HB). The type that works like the refrigerator switch. When > the door is closed (the HB is down & not engaged), the light is off. Then when > the door is opened (the HB is engaged), the light would go on. > To carry this > one step future: > Set the wiring up in such a way so when the HB is engaged > (light is on), that the ignition circuit is disengaged (car won't start). This > could easy be done with a switch that would works in the reverse way the > refrigerator switch works (or like a standard 'on-off' switch is), but with a > 'button style' like the refrigerator switch is with a spring inside it. NOW, > there is no way she (or anyone else) can start the car to drive it with the > HB on or engaged). > > This would work as an anti-theft device, too! OR An > automatic 'Kill Switch'. If you were driving along & say your brakes gave out > (like a leak in the MC or Brake Line) then once you lifted the HB, The engine > would die & the HB would be engaged & the brakes as well. Now if you released > the HB the engine would be off & the car's gears engaged until you pressed in > the clutch peddle or placed the tranny in Neutral. > Just a thought?-Cosmo > Kramer "Life is too short to drive Boring Cars" Bill Pugh Wallace, CA Casper 1957 TR3 TS16665L anabil007 at comcast.net From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Sun Nov 6 17:44:43 2011 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2011 19:44:43 -0500 Subject: [TR] New addition to the family Message-ID: The tr6 is in my driveway! It's an ugly mess but it's mine. Under a few coats of paint and old primer looks like a straight solid car. Floorpans and trunk need attention but fenders doors hood etc have good gaps and very little rust. One odd thing. It looks like someone installed a short piece of fender bead between the cockpit and trunk during its last respray. I figure there's rust lurking there and the fender bead was a way to disguise it. Happy as a clam. My lovely bride has not seen it yet. I may have some splaaming to do. I'm short a few items...cross member for one but it's mine and it will be ready by spring! (Which spring????) From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Sun Nov 6 18:22:50 2011 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2011 20:22:50 -0500 Subject: [TR] Hand Brake left on In-Reply-To: <3185F20C-6867-4B6D-9D2C-DAE6D6BEAC9A@comcast.net> References: <1320588631.39038.YahooMailNeo@web39424.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <3185F20C-6867-4B6D-9D2C-DAE6D6BEAC9A@comcast.net> Message-ID: I thought they built in a special aromatic that is released when the brake is left on.... I have done the same thing but mostly in automatics... I just never expect folks to use the parking brake in an auto.... From tr3a.60 at gmail.com Sun Nov 6 18:49:46 2011 From: tr3a.60 at gmail.com (John Wise) Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2011 20:49:46 -0500 Subject: [TR] New addition to the family In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <10C43C69-675A-49F3-BC13-088DDCEC006C@gmail.com> On 6 Nov, 2011, at 7:44 PM, Chris Simo wrote: > The tr6 is in my driveway! It's an ugly mess but it's mine. Congrats on the car & best of luck with the spouse! :-) John John A. Wise Ormond Beach, FL 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From zoboherald at aol.com Sun Nov 6 19:11:20 2011 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace) Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2011 21:11:20 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] New addition to the family In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CE6B09AC856F83-C4C-112FCD@webmail-m057.sysops.aol.com> How early a car is it? ISTR that the very earliest TR6s had beading there. --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us -----Original Message----- From: Chris Simo To: list Triumph The tr6 is in my driveway! It's an ugly mess but it's mine.... One odd thing. It looks like someone installed a short piece of fender bead between the cockpit and trunk during its last respray. I figure there's rust lurking there and the fender bead was a way to disguise it. From lgmtr6 at yahoo.com Sun Nov 6 19:35:50 2011 From: lgmtr6 at yahoo.com (lgmtr6) Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 02:35:50 +0000 Subject: [TR] New addition to the family In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Good luck with the project. It will be worth all the hard work. I love to drive my TR6 over all my other British toys. The rear fender beading was original on very early 69 cars only. Is it an early car? Larry Miceli 58 TR3 project 73 Stag 74 TR6 71 XKE 87 XJ6 VDP Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry -----Original Message----- From: Chris Simo Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2011 19:44:43 To: list Triumph Subject: [TR] New addition to the family The tr6 is in my driveway! It's an ugly mess but it's mine. Under a few coats of paint and old primer looks like a straight solid car. Floorpans and trunk need attention but fenders doors hood etc have good gaps and very little rust. One odd thing. It looks like someone installed a short piece of fender bead between the cockpit and trunk during its last respray. I figure there's rust lurking there and the fender bead was a way to disguise it. Happy as a clam. My lovely bride has not seen it yet. I may have some splaaming to do. I'm short a few items...cross member for one but it's mine and it will be ready by spring! (Which spring????) triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/lgmtr6 at yahoo.com From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Nov 6 20:04:12 2011 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2011 22:04:12 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] TR3 question Message-ID: <7d2b.15d58993.3be8a4ab@cs.com> I'm slowly making progress on the 57 TR3. I bought a new ground strap and I can't remember where it gets attached. (Actually, the car was so patched up I'm sure it was not connected per factory anyway.) At the moment I have it attached to one of the two bolts securing the engine mount to the frame and to one of the bolts securing the timing chain cover to the front engine plate. This works but maybe the guys at the factory had other ideas. My BRAND NEW starter solenoid doesn't work. The coil pulls in just fine but there is no contact closure. I can push the button and still no joy. My old one works just fine. BTW I started the engine for the first time in 5 years so there's that. Now to fix that gas leak. Dave From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com Sun Nov 6 20:20:06 2011 From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad) Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2011 19:20:06 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] New addition to the family In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1320636006.59452.YahooMailNeo@web120524.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Chris- What is the commission number? Only the first couple hundred TR6's had that beading. Chad in Tulsa From: Chris Simo To: list Triumph Sent: Sunday, November 6, 2011 6:44 PM Subject: [TR] New addition to the family The tr6 is in my driveway! It's an ugly mess but it's mine. Under a few coats of paint and old primer looks like a straight solid car. Floorpans and trunk need attention but fenders doors hood etc have good gaps and very little rust. One odd thing. It looks like someone installed a short piece of fender bead between the cockpit and trunk during its last respray. I figure there's rust lurking there and the fender bead was a way to disguise it. Happy as a clam. My lovely bride has not seen it yet. I may have some splaaming to do. I'm short a few items...cross member for one but it's mine and it will be ready by spring! (Which spring????) triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Nov 6 20:42:23 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2011 19:42:23 -0800 Subject: [TR] Handbrake warning light In-Reply-To: <1320621168.89921.YahooMailNeo@web29419.mail.ird.yahoo.com> References: <1320621168.89921.YahooMailNeo@web29419.mail.ird.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <021f01cc9cff$42aed790$0501a8c0@randall> > Stag shared many similar fittings and features and > perhaps Randall > can confirm this as he has one (?) and I don't. Quite right, as usual John. Except I have two Stags, and that switch does not work properly on either of them. The TR3 handbrake lever is quite a bit different than the later cars; it actually mounts to the frame under the car and protrudes up through the floor boards. The bottom of it does not move very far, which was why I was thinking a snap-action microswitch switch might be a better choice. And it is only a few inches from the road, hence the need for extra protection from the elements. Stop light switches are generally not sealed either. But I am probably over-engineering, as usual. -- Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Nov 6 20:57:27 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2011 19:57:27 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3 question In-Reply-To: <7d2b.15d58993.3be8a4ab@cs.com> References: <7d2b.15d58993.3be8a4ab@cs.com> Message-ID: <022101cc9d01$5e0c8a30$0501a8c0@randall> > I have > it attached to one of the two bolts securing the engine mount > to the frame > and to one of the bolts securing the timing chain cover to > the front engine > plate. That's the right general location. Here's a photo supplied by Don Elliott (with some components removed for clarity) http://fwd4.me/0gKj -- Randall From thebujas at comcast.net Sun Nov 6 21:38:13 2011 From: thebujas at comcast.net (Ann and Tim Buja) Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2011 22:38:13 -0600 Subject: [TR] hand brake left on In-Reply-To: Message-ID: If you installed an ignition kill switch on the hand brake, how would you handle the situation of starting on a steep hill? I use the hand brake to hold the car in position while one foot is on the clutch and the other on the throttle to start on a hill. Killing the ignition would not be good here... Stag and TR7/TR8 have handbrake warning lights controlled by a switch on the handbrake lever. Tim Buja - 80 TR8, 73 Stag, 72 TR6 - Rockford, IL From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Sun Nov 6 21:54:18 2011 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2011 20:54:18 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Hand Brake left on Message-ID: <1320641658.7009.YahooMailRC@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Hi Bill, Just remember - Nothing is foolproof for a sufficiently determined fool. When my wife came back in my TR3 it looked like it was on fire because of all the smoke coming from the rear brakes. She said "Your car will barely go!" Hence, all of the threads about warning lights and lockout switches. I am just happy that my wife finally likes my TR. For years she has threatened to have it crushed. Bill in Tehachapi From: William Pugh To: Cosmo Kramer Cc: "triumphs at autox.team.net" Subject: Re: [TR] Hand Brake left on Message-ID: <3185F20C-6867-4B6D-9D2C-DAE6D6BEAC9A at comcast.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Me thinks if you can drive the car with the handbrake on ... you have not properly adjusted the system ... From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Mon Nov 7 00:16:21 2011 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2011 23:16:21 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] TR3 Maradyne Heater Message-ID: <1320650181.85312.YahooMailRC@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> A couple of years ago I installed a Maradyne heater in my TR3A. It was designed for a farm tractor, but fit in the TR. I got the idea from HVDA who did the same. It has worked very well compared to the original TR3A heater or a Triumph Spitfire core that I was using before the Maradyne. Anyway, we just had our second snow here in Tehachapi and the heater is blowing cold air. I checked the valve on top of the head and when the car is running, water is going through there. I gently blew the heater core out with a garden hose and it looks clear. What could be downstream from this that would block the coolant from going through the core? The car is running a 185 thermostat and getting up to temperature. I have the radiator part way blocked off to try to keep the heat in the engine compartment. The hose feeding the heater core is warm (not hot) and the hose leaving the core is cold. The last communication I had from FT was that he told me he had a heater in his TR that would burn you out of the cockpit it worked so well. I wonder what he had. I wonder what happened to his TR, does anyone know? Man, I am tired of trying to stay warm in a TR. Driving it to work tomorrow, bundled up. TIA, -Bill in Tehachapi From dixie4.wales at virgin.net Mon Nov 7 02:38:02 2011 From: dixie4.wales at virgin.net (ADRIAN DIX-DYER) Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 09:38:02 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3 Maradyne Heater In-Reply-To: <1320650181.85312.YahooMailRC@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <1320650181.85312.YahooMailRC@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: It sounds to me that you have an airlock in the heater radiator. I am not familiar with the TR3A pipe set up but in theory the idea is to bleed the system of air. Many French cars have a bleed unit fitted exactly for this purpose. It is just a matter of running the engine until water flows from the bleed screw. As to the practicalities of utilising this concept I would have to leave to your imagination. You could try disconnecting the cold heater outlet pipe in the engine bay with the engine up to temperature and running. When hot water flows reconnect. Tip: wear gloves the water should be hot. Adrian TR4A CT 64306 O Wales UK On 7 November 2011 07:16, William Brewer wrote: > A couple of years ago I installed a Maradyne heater in my TR3A. It was > designed for a farm tractor, but fit in the TR. I got the idea from HVDA > who did > the same. It has worked very well compared to the original TR3A heater or a > Triumph Spitfire core that I was using before the Maradyne. Anyway, we > just had > our second snow here in Tehachapi and the heater is blowing cold air. I > checked > the valve on top of the head and when the car is running, water is going > through > there. I gently blew the heater core out with a garden hose and it looks > clear. > What could be downstream from this that would block the coolant from going > through the core? The car is running a 185 thermostat and getting up to > temperature. I have the radiator part way blocked off to try to keep the > heat in > the engine compartment. The hose feeding the heater core is warm (not hot) > and > the hose leaving the core is cold. > The last communication I had from FT was that he told me he had a > heater in > his TR that would burn you out of the cockpit it worked so well. I wonder > what > he had. I wonder what happened to his TR, does anyone know? > Man, I am tired of trying to stay warm in a TR. Driving it to work > tomorrow, bundled up. > TIA, > > -Bill in Tehachapi > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dixie4.wales at virgin.net From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk Mon Nov 7 02:45:26 2011 From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 09:45:26 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] Handbrake warning light In-Reply-To: <021f01cc9cff$42aed790$0501a8c0@randall> References: <1320621168.89921.YahooMailNeo@web29419.mail.ird.yahoo.com> <021f01cc9cff$42aed790$0501a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <1320659126.10658.YahooMailNeo@web29401.mail.ird.yahoo.com> Hi, Randall Too many painful memories of driving sidescreen TR's and that stupidly positioned handbrake! As some may know, it was in the same location on RHD cars and became agonisingly painful on the left leg after an hour (or less) of driving. Yet another classic example of bad design and cost cutting. It wouldn't have required a number ten size hat in engineering terms to have put it on the other side of the transmission tunnel - but they didn't and we sold many many RHD cars in RH steer overseas markets. I missed the beginning of this thread and I don't ever recall the question being raised before about a warning light being 'desirable' on a sidescreener Triumph. What's the difficulty? Is it the siting of the brake or the oddities of the fly-off mechanism? After all, a brake is a brake. You release it before driving away. Hardly rocket science. Jonmac http://standard-triumph-books.co.uk/ From ambritts at bellsouth.net Mon Nov 7 04:52:27 2011 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 06:52:27 -0500 Subject: [TR] Hand Brake left on In-Reply-To: <3185F20C-6867-4B6D-9D2C-DAE6D6BEAC9A@comcast.net> References: <1320588631.39038.YahooMailNeo@web39424.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <3185F20C-6867-4B6D-9D2C-DAE6D6BEAC9A@comcast.net> Message-ID: <49AFCB2F92B94E8FA96FA3F0CF2B63C4@AlexPC> Same thing I did to wire up a Lucas period reverse light on my TR3A. When you put the car in reverse the back up light goes on. I made a simple mounting bracket that is attached to the tranny. The bracket holds a TR6 brake light switch. The switch is activated when the lever from the shifter extends out after the tranny is shifted into reverse and of course goes out when it is taken out of reverse. Works like a charm. Looks great too. The light is located to the right of the license plate and is mounted with a chrome bracket I made that is attached to the bumperette bracket. The other side has an identical Lucas light with a red lens (fog light) that is controlled from a period switch that is mounted on the TR3A factory radio stand that is mounted to the tranny tunnel. ----- Original Message ----- From: "William Pugh" To: "Cosmo Kramer" Cc: Sent: Sunday, November 06, 2011 7:21 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Hand Brake left on > Me thinks if you can drive the car with the handbrake on ... you have not > properly adjusted the system ... > > On Nov 6, 2011, at 6:10 AM, Cosmo Kramer wrote: > >> Hi List! >> Well I thought that Randall had a good idea of placing a switch on >> the Hand Brake (HB). The type that works like the refrigerator switch. >> When >> the door is closed (the HB is down & not engaged), the light is off. Then > when >> the door is opened (the HB is engaged), the light would go on. >> To carry this >> one step future: >> Set the wiring up in such a way so when the HB is engaged >> (light is on), that the ignition circuit is disengaged (car won't start). > This >> could easy be done with a switch that would works in the reverse way the >> refrigerator switch works (or like a standard 'on-off' switch is), but >> with > a >> 'button style' like the refrigerator switch is with a spring inside it. > NOW, >> there is no way she (or anyone else) can start the car to drive it with > the >> HB on or engaged). >> >> This would work as an anti-theft device, too! OR An >> automatic 'Kill Switch'. If you were driving along & say your brakes gave > out >> (like a leak in the MC or Brake Line) then once you lifted the HB, The > engine >> would die & the HB would be engaged & the brakes as well. Now if you > released >> the HB the engine would be off & the car's gears engaged until you >> pressed > in >> the clutch peddle or placed the tranny in Neutral. >> Just a thought?-Cosmo >> Kramer > > > > "Life is too short to drive Boring Cars" > > Bill Pugh > Wallace, CA > Casper > 1957 TR3 > TS16665L > anabil007 at comcast.net From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Nov 7 05:47:01 2011 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 07:47:01 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] TR3 question Message-ID: <2788f.618d6863.3be92d45@cs.com> In a message dated 11/6/2011 9:57:23 PM Central Standard Time, TR3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > >I have > >it attached to one of the two bolts securing the engine mount > >to the frame > >and to one of the bolts securing the timing chain cover to > >the front engine > >plate. > > That's the right general location. Here's a photo supplied by Don Elliott > (with some components removed for clarity) > http://fwd4.me/0gKj > Thanks. The strap I got was quite a bit longer so it gave the impression that it should have a longer reach. (Some components removed for clarity, indeed. Between the cross member, steering column and the coolant return pipe it is really awkward to install.) Dave From yellowtr at adelphia.net Mon Nov 7 06:13:09 2011 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Mon, 07 Nov 2011 08:13:09 -0500 Subject: [TR] New addition to the family In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4EB7D965.20600@adelphia.net> Chris, If your 6 looks anything like mine on arrival your wife will say, "Get that piece of junk out of the driveway before we get arrested." The wife did get a quick view of the car before it arrived at home but for her to see it in the driveway when she arrived from work, well that was a different story. But after 3 long years, she is proud to be seen driving to car hops etc. Good luck on your restoration, you will not be disappointed with your 6. The sound of the engine is quite different from the 4 cyl motors in my 3 and 4. More of a roar than a rumble. Bob On 11/06/2011 07:44 PM, Chris Simo wrote: > The tr6 is in my driveway! It's an ugly mess but it's mine. > > > Happy as a clam. My lovely bride has not seen it yet. I may have some > splaaming to do. From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Nov 7 06:13:33 2011 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 08:13:33 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Handbrake warning light Message-ID: <2857a.520d57c6.3be9337c@cs.com> In a message dated 11/6/2011 10:08:20 PM Central Standard Time, TR3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > The TR3 handbrake lever is quite a bit different than the later cars; it > actually mounts to the frame under the car and protrudes up through the > floor boards. The bottom of it does not move very far, which was why I > was > thinking a snap-action microswitch switch might be a better choice. And > it > is only a few inches from the road, hence the need for extra protection > from > the elements. Stop light switches are generally not sealed either. > > But I am probably over-engineering, as usual. > Naaa. Over-engineering would be putting a strain gauge in the parking brake cable and building an electronic circuit to indicate when it is applying tension on the shoes. And once you do that you may as well put some speed sensors on there and an ignition kill switch such that if you attempt to drive off with the brake set it will kill the engine. I'd be happy to develop a prototype if anyone is interested and has $15,000 to spare. Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Nov 7 06:25:37 2011 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 08:25:37 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] TR3 Maradyne Heater Message-ID: <28bc1.206976e1.3be93651@cs.com> In a message dated 11/7/2011 1:35:39 AM Central Standard Time, wsb1960tr3a at att.net writes: > A couple of years ago I installed a Maradyne heater in my TR3A. It > was > designed for a farm tractor, but fit in the TR. I got the idea from HVDA > who did > the same. It has worked very well compared to the original TR3A heater or > a > Triumph Spitfire core that I was using before the Maradyne. Anyway, we > just had > our second snow here in Tehachapi and the heater is blowing cold air. I > checked > the valve on top of the head and when the car is running, water is going > through > there. I gently blew the heater core out with a garden hose and it looks > clear. > What could be downstream from this that would block the coolant from going > > through the core? The car is running a 185 thermostat and getting up to > temperature. I have the radiator part way blocked off to try to keep the > heat in > the engine compartment. The hose feeding the heater core is warm (not hot) > and > the hose leaving the core is cold. > The last communication I had from FT was that he told me he had a > heater in > his TR that would burn you out of the cockpit it worked so well. I wonder > what > he had. I wonder what happened to his TR, does anyone know? > Man, I am tired of trying to stay warm in a TR. Driving it to work > tomorrow, bundled up. > The fact that your supply pipe is only warm and your return pipe is cold suggests a coolant flow restriction. If the heater core itself is flowing freely then check the supply and return paths. The supply is pretty straight forward. It is a valve that screws into the head. Try back flushing that with the hose. The port in the head may be clogged with schmutz or the valve itself may be blocked. The return is a thin walled pipe. If it is failing it will leak straight away. But stainless steel replacements are easy to come by. The valve is also easy to come by and both are easy to replace. Dave From tgeiger at geigergarage.com Mon Nov 7 07:18:30 2011 From: tgeiger at geigergarage.com (Terry Geiger) Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 08:18:30 -0600 Subject: [TR] Exhaust header/manifold ceramic coating - thanks Message-ID: <001001cc9d58$20c62080$62526180$@geigergarage.com> Thanks to all who responded to my query regarding exhaust manifold coatings. I chose Performance Coatings because a) they offer ceramic coating b) the price was reasonable c) several people replied with good experience over the long term. Jet Hot also looks like a very good option. To summarize, here are the vendors I received positive recommendations on: www.performancecoatings.com www.jet-hot.com www.paeco.com (plasma coating) NFI and all that rot. Terry Geiger www.GeigerGarage.com From thenicholls at verizon.net Mon Nov 7 07:23:27 2011 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Mon, 07 Nov 2011 08:23:27 -0600 (CST) Subject: [TR] 1972 Triumph TR6 spark plug question Message-ID: <109405254.8861039.1320675807158.JavaMail.root@vznit170070> Replaced thermostat yesterday, no change in temp gauge reading. Where should I head to next? Craig 1972 Triumph TR6 Oct 29, 2011 12:47:51 AM, thenicholls at verizon.net wrote: Don't know, I could replace it. Any way to test that? I did replace it 4/1/2006, that could be it. Thanks, Craig Oct 28, 2011 11:52:24 PM, fishplate at charter.net wrote: On 10/28/2011 10:16 PM, thenicholls at verizon.net wrote: > Is it possible for an engine to run too cold? I had never thought this was a concern. ` Yes, but it's not likely to be the plugs. Is your thermostat stuck open? triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net From allenhess at mgcarclub.com Mon Nov 7 07:23:30 2011 From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess) Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 09:23:30 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 rear wheel noise In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On Nov 6, 2011, at 9:36 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > This weekend I acquired a new squeal from my right rear wheel, only > when I > turn right...I recently replaced my brakes; drums, shoes, wheel > cylinders, > etc...put about 250 miles since then no problems. Any thoughts on a > diagnosis? Thanks > > Dave Willner > Stroudsburg PA > 59 TR3A I'd pull both drums and look for signs of rubbing on the drums, backing plate and shoes. I've not encountered it in normal driving but it was more common than I would like, when I autocrossed. Happening when you turn right would indicate the left left side, but who knows. Allen Hess TR4, MGB Bethlehem, PA From pethier at comcast.net Mon Nov 7 08:07:45 2011 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 15:07:45 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Brake Caliper Clearance In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1636310072.1789819.1320678465459.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> > I tie them in > place with some dental floss thru the holes, then assemble the > brackets and > bolts. You really need something (like the floss) to keep all the bits > together as you assemble. Fantastic idea. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://www.mnautox.com From yellowtr at adelphia.net Mon Nov 7 09:25:22 2011 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Mon, 07 Nov 2011 11:25:22 -0500 Subject: [TR] 1972 Triumph TR6 spark plug question In-Reply-To: <109405254.8861039.1320675807158.JavaMail.root@vznit170070> References: <109405254.8861039.1320675807158.JavaMail.root@vznit170070> Message-ID: <4EB80672.8020505@adelphia.net> Craig, If you have a good thermometer you should run the engine until you think it should be hot and then carefully open the rad cap and stick in the probe. Should be about what your thermostat is rated or a bit higher. If the temperature is what you think it should be, I would replace the sensor next. Bob On 11/07/2011 09:23 AM, thenicholls at verizon.net wrote: > Replaced thermostat yesterday, no change in temp gauge reading. Where should I head to next? > > Craig > 1972 Triumph TR6 > > > Oct 29, 2011 12:47:51 AM, thenicholls at verizon.net wrote: > > Don't know, I could replace it. Any way to test that? I did replace it 4/1/2006, that could be it. > > Thanks, > > Craig > > > Oct 28, 2011 11:52:24 PM, fishplate at charter.net wrote: > > On 10/28/2011 10:16 PM, thenicholls at verizon.net wrote: >> Is it possible for an engine to run too cold? I had never thought this was a concern. > ` > Yes, but it's not likely to be the plugs. Is your thermostat stuck open? From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Nov 7 09:32:32 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 08:32:32 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3 Maradyne Heater In-Reply-To: <1320650181.85312.YahooMailRC@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <1320650181.85312.YahooMailRC@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <02d501cc9d6a$d9eeecb0$0501a8c0@randall> > What could be downstream from this that would block the > coolant from going > through the core? I have seen the heater return line (on the LH side of the engine) get blocked with sediment or even kink/collapse. Might be worth checking. If you still can't find the problem, a fairly extreme test would be to disconnect the return line from the water pump, put a plug in the hole, and briefly start the engine. You should get a solid gush of coolant out of the tube. -- Randall From thenicholls at verizon.net Mon Nov 7 11:06:06 2011 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Mon, 07 Nov 2011 12:06:06 -0600 (CST) Subject: [TR] 1972 Triumph TR6 spark plug question Message-ID: <108234425.8936719.1320689166628.JavaMail.root@vznit170076> Replaced thermostat over the weekend, no change. Also suggested was the voltage stbilizer (the one behind the speedo). I was advised it was connected to the fuel and thermo gauge. The fuel gauge is fine, and the thermo does work, once warm, it comes out of the clear bos on the left of the gauge and is in the painted while part at the lowest level. Prior, it always ran in the 6 PM range right in the middle. Since the gauge has no temperature numbers, even if I take the temperature reading in the radiator, I have no idea what it should be. What is the "normal" range for it to run? Also was suggested to replace the sensor. I tried last year to order one from TRF and replace it, but the new one did not fit, so I cleaned up the old one and put it back. All the big 3 only list one for my car, so I am not sure why it would not fit and I never had time to find out. At least if I got a reading on the temp from the radiator I would at least know I am not running cold (which I don't really think is possible). Any other ideas appreciated. Craig 1972 Triumph TR6 Nov 7, 2011 12:05:25 PM, yellowtr at adelphia.net wrote: Craig, If you have a good thermometer you should run the engine until you think it should be hot and then carefully open the rad cap and stick in the probe. Should be about what your thermostat is rated or a bit higher. If the temperature is what you think it should be, I would replace the sensor next. Bob On 11/07/2011 09:23 AM, thenicholls at verizon.net wrote: > Replaced thermostat yesterday, no change in temp gauge reading. Where should I head to next? > > Craig > 1972 Triumph TR6 > > > Oct 29, 2011 12:47:51 AM, thenicholls at verizon.net wrote: > > Don't know, I could replace it. Any way to test that? I did replace it 4/1/2006, that could be it. > > Thanks, > > Craig > > > Oct 28, 2011 11:52:24 PM, fishplate at charter.net wrote: > > On 10/28/2011 10:16 PM, thenicholls at verizon.net wrote: >> Is it possible for an engine to run too cold? I had never thought this was a concern. > ` > Yes, but it's not likely to be the plugs. Is your thermostat stuck open? triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Nov 7 11:24:04 2011 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 13:24:04 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] 1972 Triumph TR6 spark plug question Message-ID: <1cbfb.2efadce2.3be97c44@cs.com> In a message dated 11/7/2011 8:45:00 AM Central Standard Time, thenicholls at verizon.net writes: > Replaced thermostat yesterday, no change in temp gauge reading. Where > should I head to next? > > Did you verify the gauge reading? Maybe the engine is getting up to temperature but the gauge is reading low. Dave From thenicholls at verizon.net Mon Nov 7 11:39:31 2011 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Mon, 07 Nov 2011 12:39:31 -0600 (CST) Subject: [TR] 1972 Triumph TR6 spark plug question Message-ID: <31143151.8939188.1320691171622.JavaMail.root@vznit170076> Dave, Nice of you to respond. I just found another member of the list who lives locally to me and he has the same exact issue. When he put a infrared thermo on it, the temp was right, the gauge was wrong. That is where I am headed next, going to stick a thermometer in there after I drive it and get a temp. Thanks, Craig Nov 7, 2011 01:34:45 PM, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: In a message dated 11/7/2011 8:45:00 AM Central Standard Time, thenicholls at verizon.net writes: > Replaced thermostat yesterday, no change in temp gauge reading. Where > should I head to next? > > Did you verify the gauge reading? Maybe the engine is getting up to temperature but the gauge is reading low. Dave triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Nov 7 12:14:29 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 11:14:29 -0800 Subject: [TR] 1972 Triumph TR6 spark plug question In-Reply-To: <109405254.8861039.1320675807158.JavaMail.root@vznit170070> References: <109405254.8861039.1320675807158.JavaMail.root@vznit170070> Message-ID: <033401cc9d81$79749fd0$0501a8c0@randall> > Replaced thermostat yesterday, no change in temp gauge > reading. Where should I head to next? My opinion, that's good enough. Assuming you used a 180F thermostat, it's running warm enough. Until something else strange happens, just drive it and don't worry. IMO they took the numbers off the gauge because the dang things were never very accurate to begin with. Without numbers, the dealer could claim anything was "normal". At this point, it could be almost anything that changed : gauge, sender, VS or even how hot the engine was running before. But don't be surprised if the gas gauge gets to 'E' a bit sooner than it used to. -- Randall From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Nov 7 12:17:07 2011 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 14:17:07 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] 1972 Triumph TR6 spark plug question Message-ID: <1f512.6a34e0a2.3be988b3@cs.com> In a message dated 11/7/2011 12:39:32 PM Central Standard Time, thenicholls at verizon.net writes: > Nice of you to respond. I just found another member of the list who > lives locally to me and he has the same exact issue. When he put a infrared > thermo on it, the temp was right, the gauge was wrong. > > That is where I am headed next, going to stick a thermometer in there > after I drive it and get a temp. > Usually it is the opposite problem. When the voltage stabilizer goes out the gauge reads high. I'll wager it is your temp sender. Good luck. Dave From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Mon Nov 7 12:47:30 2011 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 11:47:30 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] tr3 w/s gap? In-Reply-To: <9B92C6F59B7D495D83AB8CAD483136FE@DELL05639> References: <1320418953.88789.YahooMailRC@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <1320424879.18776.YahooMailNeo@web120217.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <9B92C6F59B7D495D83AB8CAD483136FE@DELL05639> Message-ID: <1320695250.8676.YahooMailNeo@web120209.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Paul im 100% sure the curve goes to the driver. this is what i do as a day job Frank ________________________________ From: Paul Dorsey To: Frank Fisher ; William Brewer ; Triumphs Sent: Saturday, November 5, 2011 6:17 AM Subject: Re: [TR] tr3 w/s gap? Frank and others, Are you sure that the curve goes toward the driver? The way that I now have tried the bottom seal is with the curve going away from the driver. That way it continues under the stanchion mounts and following the stanchions curvature. (even though the seal will get trimmed so that the stanchions and scuttle are metal to metal). I wish I had a picture to go by. Paul ----- Original Message ----- From: "Frank Fisher" To: "William Brewer" ; "Triumphs" Sent: Friday, November 04, 2011 12:41 PM Subject: Re: [TR] tr3 w/s gap? > Paul > also remember that the gasket has a curve to it. at least mine did. > install it so the curve is curving toward the driver not toward the front > of > the car. > Frank > > > ________________________________ > From: William Brewer > > To: Triumphs > Sent: Friday, > November 4, 2011 8:02 AM > Subject: [TR] tr3 w/s gap? > > Hi Paul, > I don't > think that our cars was made that well to start with. My car was > rolled onto > its side in the fire grass on the side side of the 405 freeway in LA > before I > got it. > My car's W/S fit the same way. There is a flat seal (MOSS - > Sealing rubber > lower part 680-470) under the frame that should fill the gap. > I also had a big > gap between the stanchions and the cowl that ISTR filling > with weatherstripping. > Good luck. > I drove to work today in the snow & > rain and remembered all the places > water gets in in a TR3. > > -Bill > > > Date: > Thu, 3 Nov 2011 19:41:46 -0400 > From: "Paul Dorsey" > To: > > Subject: [TR] tr3 w/s gap? > Message-ID: > <598B67988649492A9C7125AA915B5C4E at DELL05639> > Content-Type: text/plain; > charset="us-ascii" > > The engine is running good. I've been admonished to turn > my attention towards > other things. The slave cylinder...no, I won't go > there... IMME > > Windshield Installation: > Not exactly remembering what I'd seen > at car shows, I trimmed an end of the > new bottom seal for the windshield. I > only trimmed about an inch (or should I > speak metric?). Since it was a trial > fitting of windshield and stanchions (in > situa?), a gap appeared seemingly > bigger than what should have been. Surely > the age of my scuttle hasn't made > it shrink? > > The gap I'm talking about exisits on both ends of the windshield > at the > bottom. Whereas the middle of the car's windshield lays squarely on > the new > bottom seal, the ends of the w/s are about 1/2" away from the top of > the > scuttle. I bought this new tinted w/s off ebay from a glass dealer, and > it > was for a TR3. It fit my fram ok. What gives? > > Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 > TR3 TS71316 > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: > http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: > http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dorpaul at bellsouth.net From sumton at sbcglobal.net Mon Nov 7 13:15:32 2011 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 14:15:32 -0600 Subject: [TR] battery charger In-Reply-To: <1f512.6a34e0a2.3be988b3@cs.com> References: <1f512.6a34e0a2.3be988b3@cs.com> Message-ID: <3D98986D9F514231B4B7E79785BC5B81@ranteer.local> About 1978 I purchased a battery charger from KMart (remember them?). still have it, still use it, still store it in its original box. a few years ago I bought a fancy new one with a lot of options. yeah. that's in the trash. I'm in Dallas - I don't need a battery tender - we drive our cars year round (mostly). anyone have a recommendation for a straight up battery charger? I'd like a second one. and I'd like it to last 30 + years, too! thanks! From guy at genfiniti.com Mon Nov 7 13:36:07 2011 From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins) Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 14:36:07 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR4A - Fan temperature threshold question Message-ID: <61237FA2-7F97-4FA7-9B92-A375D04797DD@genfiniti.com> All, What temperature is too hot for the TR4A engine? I am looking to install a thermostatic switch for the electric fan in the near future, but don't have any appreciation on the on/off temperatures to look for. I found an in-line switch from Derale that turns on at 180, and off at 165, but don't know if those thresholds would be appropriate. Thanks in advance. Cheers, Guy D. Huggins 1965 Triumph TR4A CTC 63569LO Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph From thenicholls at verizon.net Mon Nov 7 13:56:14 2011 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Mon, 07 Nov 2011 14:56:14 -0600 (CST) Subject: [TR] confirm XXXXXXe44820be888bed89391b27cbc169b9841c Message-ID: <55291550.8885942.1320699374262.JavaMail.root@vznit170070> From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Mon Nov 7 14:09:48 2011 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 14:09:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] battery charger In-Reply-To: <3D98986D9F514231B4B7E79785BC5B81@ranteer.local> References: <1f512.6a34e0a2.3be988b3@cs.com> <3D98986D9F514231B4B7E79785BC5B81@ranteer.local> Message-ID: My KMart charger dates from 1971 and is still going. About 10 years ago I moved it from the garage to under the deck where it powers a low voltage line for lights and exhaust fans in the outhouse. Runs several hours per day with minimal weather protection (a cake pan for a little roof). The thing just won't quit. My 'new' charger is a 'Schumacher Dual Rate Manual Charger' just a basic one from some discount store though it does have a choice of 2 amp or 6 amp charge modes. Works fine. Geo On Mon, Nov 7, 2011 at 1:15 PM, oliver wrote: > About 1978 I purchased a battery charger from KMart (remember them?). > still have it, still use it, still store it in its original box... From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Mon Nov 7 14:12:46 2011 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 14:12:46 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4A - Fan temperature threshold question In-Reply-To: <61237FA2-7F97-4FA7-9B92-A375D04797DD@genfiniti.com> References: <61237FA2-7F97-4FA7-9B92-A375D04797DD@genfiniti.com> Message-ID: This may depend in part on where you will install the sensor, i.e. at the top radiator hose or at the bottom. Those numbers look reasonable to me for a sensor on the bottom hose (which I think would be a good location). On Mon, Nov 7, 2011 at 1:36 PM, G.D. Huggins wrote: > ...I found an in-line switch from Derale that turns on at 180, and off at > 165, > but don't know if those thresholds would be appropriate. From tgeiger at geigergarage.com Mon Nov 7 14:20:27 2011 From: tgeiger at geigergarage.com (Terry Geiger) Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 15:20:27 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR4A - Fan temperature threshold question In-Reply-To: <61237FA2-7F97-4FA7-9B92-A375D04797DD@genfiniti.com> References: <61237FA2-7F97-4FA7-9B92-A375D04797DD@genfiniti.com> Message-ID: <000901cc9d93$148fbf20$3daf3d60$@geigergarage.com> I like to use an adjustable unit. The Derale 16749 uses a screw in sensor and the Derale 16759 has a sensor that pushes into the radiator fins. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DER-16749/ http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DER-16759/ Terry Geiger www.GeigerGarage.com -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of G.D. Huggins Sent: Monday, November 07, 2011 2:36 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR4A - Fan temperature threshold question All, What temperature is too hot for the TR4A engine? I am looking to install a thermostatic switch for the electric fan in the near future, but don't have any appreciation on the on/off temperatures to look for. I found an in-line switch from Derale that turns on at 180, and off at 165, but don't know if those thresholds would be appropriate. Thanks in advance. Cheers, Guy D. Huggins 1965 Triumph TR4A CTC 63569LO Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tgeiger at geigergarage.com From yellowtr at adelphia.net Mon Nov 7 14:29:40 2011 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Mon, 07 Nov 2011 16:29:40 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4A - Fan temperature threshold question In-Reply-To: <61237FA2-7F97-4FA7-9B92-A375D04797DD@genfiniti.com> References: <61237FA2-7F97-4FA7-9B92-A375D04797DD@genfiniti.com> Message-ID: <4EB84DC4.5090006@adelphia.net> Guy, I would say about 190 is about as high as you would want the temp to go. The temp gauge on my 3 is 185 in the middle. I have always thought that 185 is the norm,high for both the 3 and 4 engines. However, the 4 is in graded in celsius and the middle reads 70 which is about 165 fahrenheit. I have never measured the actual temperature in either car but I use 165 thermostats from TRF and guess I am running about 165 - 170. Both cars stay right in the middle or a little less no mater how hot outside or how I am driving. Bob > All, > > What temperature is too hot for the TR4A engine? > I am looking to install a thermostatic switch for the electric fan in the near > future, but don't have any appreciation on the on/off temperatures to look > for. > > I found an in-line switch from Derale that turns on at 180, and off at 165, > but don't know if those thresholds would be appropriate. > > Thanks in advance. > > > > Cheers, > > Guy D. Huggins > 1965 Triumph TR4A > CTC 63569LO > > Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph From thenicholls at verizon.net Mon Nov 7 15:16:33 2011 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Mon, 07 Nov 2011 16:16:33 -0600 (CST) Subject: [TR] confirm XXXXXXe44820be888bed89391b27cbc169b9841c Message-ID: <691174664.603017.1320704193774.JavaMail.root@vznit170078> Anyone else on the list get this? I did not request to be deleted, so it appears someone asked me to be removed?! Just curious, Craig 1972 Triumph TR6 Nov 7, 2011 01:49:31 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: Mailing list removal confirmation notice for mailing list Triumphs We have received a request from 64.69.100.93 for the removal of your email address, "thenicholls at verizon.net" from the triumphs at autox.team.net mailing list. To confirm that you want to be removed from this mailing list, simply reply to this message, keeping the Subject: header intact. Or visit this web page: http://autox.team.net/mailman/confirm/triumphs/XXXXXXe44820be888bed89391b27cbc169b9841c Or include the following line -- and only the following line -- in a message to triumphs-request at autox.team.net: confirm XXXXXXe44820be888bed89391b27cbc169b9841c Note that simply sending a `reply' to this message should work from most mail readers, since that usually leaves the Subject: line in the right form (additional "Re:" text in the Subject: is okay). If you do not wish to be removed from this list, please simply disregard this message. If you think you are being maliciously removed from the list, or have any other questions, send them to triumphs-owner at autox.team.net. From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Mon Nov 7 15:28:58 2011 From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com) Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 17:28:58 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] TR3A fuel troubles Message-ID: <367f.5030a9d3.3be9b5a9@aol.com> Hello All; I drove into the nearest small town today, on mostly straight roads at 50-60mph. I made a few stops at stores and the bank, then started off for home. After the car had been sitting for probably an hour, it started great. I pulled away onto the highway, got up to cruising speed and then there was a sudden loss of power. It was missing (but not "sharply", suggesting to me that it's a fuel problem and not ignition). Applying more throttle slowed the car even more, applying less did the same. There was one throttle position where the vehicle would maintain about 25mph, but running rough. Eventually, it lost more and more power and finally the engine stalled. I let the engine sit maybe 30 seconds and tried to start it. It cranked over for a longer time than usual before it fired, but when it started it ran perfectly. I drove away and managed to get about a mile down the road before the sudden power loss and rough running came in again. This time I was able to nurse it along at 50mph (it's a flat road) as long as I kept it out of overdrive. Eventually, same thing; lost power despite my playing with the throttle inputs, and eventually died. This time I left it a minute before starting. It started almost immediately and ran fine, but it was a repeat of the same scenario several times until I got home. I have done no diagnosis yet, so I could be wasting everyone's time. However, if anyone has any suggestions, I'd love to hear them. Maybe a bad float??? Tim TS22930LO, Ontario, Canada. From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Mon Nov 7 15:34:15 2011 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 14:34:15 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] wiper motor tr-3 Message-ID: <1320705255.17114.YahooMailNeo@web65314.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> I'm in the process of cleaning up my wiper motor and lost a tiny piece. This piece is T shaped and seems to be made of circuit board material and two of them hold the tiny spring that stretches and holds the brushes against the armature. I'm just wondering if there is a source for these or a source of material to make one. I'm wondering if a comparable weight of plastic could be used to fabricate. Has anyone had this problem before? thanks gary n. From spitlist at cox.net Mon Nov 7 15:53:23 2011 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 15:53:23 -0700 Subject: [TR] confirm XXXXXXe44820be888bed89391b27cbc169b9841c In-Reply-To: <691174664.603017.1320704193774.JavaMail.root@vznit170078> References: <691174664.603017.1320704193774.JavaMail.root@vznit170078> Message-ID: Yep. I did! -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of thenicholls at verizon.net Sent: Monday, November 07, 2011 3:17 PM To: triumphs-request at autox.team.net; triumphs-owner at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Cc: triumphs-request at autox.team.net; triumphs-owner at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] confirm XXXXXXe44820be888bed89391b27cbc169b9841c Anyone else on the list get this? I did not request to be deleted, so it appears someone asked me to be removed?! Just curious, Craig 1972 Triumph TR6 Nov 7, 2011 01:49:31 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: Mailing list removal confirmation notice for mailing list Triumphs We have received a request from 64.69.100.93 for the removal of your email address, "thenicholls at verizon.net" from the triumphs at autox.team.net mailing list. To confirm that you want to be removed from this mailing list, simply reply to this message, keeping the Subject: header intact. Or visit this web page: http://autox.team.net/mailman/confirm/triumphs/XXXXXXe44820be888bed89391b27c bc169b9841c Or include the following line -- and only the following line -- in a message to triumphs-request at autox.team.net: confirm XXXXXXe44820be888bed89391b27cbc169b9841c Note that simply sending a `reply' to this message should work from most mail readers, since that usually leaves the Subject: line in the right form (additional "Re:" text in the Subject: is okay). If you do not wish to be removed from this list, please simply disregard this message. If you think you are being maliciously removed from the list, or have any other questions, send them to triumphs-owner at autox.team.net. triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net From cak at dimebank.com Mon Nov 7 16:03:26 2011 From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev) Date: Mon, 07 Nov 2011 15:03:26 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR4A - Fan temperature threshold question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4EB863BE.4080508@dimebank.com> > What temperature is too hot for the TR4A engine? > I am looking to install a thermostatic switch for the electric fan in the near > future, but don't have any appreciation on the on/off temperatures to look > for. > > I found an in-line switch from Derale that turns on at 180, and off at 165, > but don't know if those thresholds would be appropriate. It totally depends on where you measure it. After years of screwing around with aftermarket electric fan installations, I have come to appreciate the wisdom of the setup on most Italian and some German cars: put the sensor at or near the bottom of the radiator, not the top. What you're trying to determine, really, is if there is enough air moving through the radiator core to lower the coolant temperature. If the temperature at the bottom of the core is "low enough", you know that the radiator is doing its job. If it is "too high", then you want to provide extra air by turning on the fan. I usually use an adjustable, but you can use a fixed temperature sensor and move the mounting position up and down to make the temp gauge needle do what you want. The 4A's thermostat will open somewhere around 180; that's the point at which the designers thought the engine was getting too warm and they wanted to cool it down. As long as the water exiting the radiator is reasonably below that, the job is getting done. I'd probably start by mounting the sensor about 1/3 of the way from the bottom - and plan to move it at least once. chris From hdrider570 at att.net Mon Nov 7 16:04:39 2011 From: hdrider570 at att.net (Q) Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 15:04:39 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] ref; TR3A fuel troubles Message-ID: <1320707079.76712.YahooMailClassic@web83816.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Sounds like fuel starvation which is usually cased by a plugged filter though I have had the same problem from a small stone entering the fuel sytem from the fuel tank and lodging itself in the line just below the tank in a TR6. Edward Hamer Petaluma CA From gprtech at frontiernet.net Mon Nov 7 16:10:39 2011 From: gprtech at frontiernet.net (George Richardson) Date: Mon, 07 Nov 2011 18:10:39 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A fuel troubles In-Reply-To: <367f.5030a9d3.3be9b5a9@aol.com> References: <367f.5030a9d3.3be9b5a9@aol.com> Message-ID: <4EB8656F.6020004@frontiernet.net> I had this problem; It was a chunk of something plugging the outlet from the fuel tank. After 7 years my new fuel tank had a collection of rust and crap it it that was unbelievable. I cleaned out the tank and gave it a tank treatment. George Richardson On 11/7/2011 5:28 PM, KingsCreekTrees at aol.com wrote: > Hello All; > > I drove into the nearest small town today, on mostly straight roads at > 50-60mph. I made a few stops at stores and the bank, then started off for home. > After the car had been sitting for probably an hour, it started great. I > pulled away onto the highway, got up to cruising speed and then there was a > sudden loss of power. It was missing (but not "sharply", suggesting to me > that it's a fuel problem and not ignition). Applying more throttle slowed > the car even more, applying less did the same. There was one throttle > position where the vehicle would maintain about 25mph, but running rough. > Eventually, it lost more and more power and finally the engine stalled. > > I let the engine sit maybe 30 seconds and tried to start it. It cranked > over for a longer time than usual before it fired, but when it started it ran > perfectly. I drove away and managed to get about a mile down the road > before the sudden power loss and rough running came in again. This time I was > able to nurse it along at 50mph (it's a flat road) as long as I kept it out > of overdrive. Eventually, same thing; lost power despite my playing with the > throttle inputs, and eventually died. This time I left it a minute before > starting. It started almost immediately and ran fine, but it was a repeat > of the same scenario several times until I got home. > > I have done no diagnosis yet, so I could be wasting everyone's time. > However, if anyone has any suggestions, I'd love to hear them. Maybe a bad > float??? > > Tim TS22930LO, Ontario, Canada. > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/gprtech at frontiernet.net From pfullam at nycap.rr.com Mon Nov 7 16:15:13 2011 From: pfullam at nycap.rr.com (Peter) Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 18:15:13 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A fuel troubles In-Reply-To: <367f.5030a9d3.3be9b5a9@aol.com> References: <367f.5030a9d3.3be9b5a9@aol.com> Message-ID: <000901cc9da3$1a735d60$4f5a1820$@rr.com> Hello Tim, I had the same symptoms on my TR4 last summer. It turned out to be a bad coil. I was in a traffic jam at 4 mph, and the underhood temp went higher than normal. Once I got past the jam and could go over 30 mph, the airflow past the engine was enough to keep the coil a little cooler. It was a Lucas Sports coil only 6 years old, mounted on the fender well. Pete Fullam CT19207L -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Sent: Monday, November 07, 2011 5:29 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR3A fuel troubles Hello All; I drove into the nearest small town today, on mostly straight roads at 50-60mph. I made a few stops at stores and the bank, then started off for home. After the car had been sitting for probably an hour, it started great. I pulled away onto the highway, got up to cruising speed and then there was a sudden loss of power. It was missing (but not "sharply", suggesting to me that it's a fuel problem and not ignition). Applying more throttle slowed the car even more, applying less did the same. There was one throttle position where the vehicle would maintain about 25mph, but running rough. Eventually, it lost more and more power and finally the engine stalled. I let the engine sit maybe 30 seconds and tried to start it. It cranked over for a longer time than usual before it fired, but when it started it ran perfectly. I drove away and managed to get about a mile down the road before the sudden power loss and rough running came in again. This time I was able to nurse it along at 50mph (it's a flat road) as long as I kept it out of overdrive. Eventually, same thing; lost power despite my playing with the throttle inputs, and eventually died. This time I left it a minute before starting. It started almost immediately and ran fine, but it was a repeat of the same scenario several times until I got home. I have done no diagnosis yet, so I could be wasting everyone's time. However, if anyone has any suggestions, I'd love to hear them. Maybe a bad float??? Tim TS22930LO, Ontario, Canada. triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pfullam at nycap.rr.com From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com Mon Nov 7 16:31:27 2011 From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad) Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 15:31:27 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] confirm XXXXXXe44820be888bed89391b27cbc169b9841c In-Reply-To: <691174664.603017.1320704193774.JavaMail.root@vznit170078> References: <691174664.603017.1320704193774.JavaMail.root@vznit170078> Message-ID: <1320708687.68960.YahooMailNeo@web120525.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> I received a similar email a few months back and I ended up getting booted off the list. It took F O R E V E R to get back on.....many failed attempts. Hopefully it doesn't happen to you. Yours originated from a different IP than mine. I'm not sure what is going on. Chad in Tulsa From: "thenicholls at verizon.net" To: triumphs-request at autox.team.net; triumphs-owner at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Cc: triumphs-request at autox.team.net; triumphs-owner at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, November 7, 2011 4:16 PM Subject: Re: [TR] confirm XXXXXXe44820be888bed89391b27cbc169b9841c Anyone else on the list get this? I did not request to be deleted, so it appears someone asked me to be removed?! Just curious, Craig 1972 Triumph TR6 Nov 7, 2011 01:49:31 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: Mailing list removal confirmation notice for mailing list Triumphs We have received a request from 64.69.100.93 for the removal of your email address, "thenicholls at verizon.net" from the triumphs at autox.team.net mailing list. To confirm that you want to be removed from this mailing list, simply reply to this message, keeping the Subject: header intact. Or visit this web page: http://autox.team.net/mailman/confirm/triumphs/XXXXXXe44820be888bed89391b27cb c169b9841c Or include the following line -- and only the following line -- in a message to triumphs-request at autox.team.net: confirm XXXXXXe44820be888bed89391b27cbc169b9841c Note that simply sending a `reply' to this message should work from most mail readers, since that usually leaves the Subject: line in the right form (additional "Re:" text in the Subject: is okay). If you do not wish to be removed from this list, please simply disregard this message. If you think you are being maliciously removed from the list, or have any other questions, send them to triumphs-owner at autox.team.net. triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Nov 7 17:41:42 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 16:41:42 -0800 Subject: [TR] battery charger In-Reply-To: <3D98986D9F514231B4B7E79785BC5B81@ranteer.local> References: <1f512.6a34e0a2.3be988b3@cs.com> <3D98986D9F514231B4B7E79785BC5B81@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <03c101cc9daf$2f6975e0$0501a8c0@randall> > (mostly). anyone have a recommendation for a straight up > battery charger? > I'd like a second one. and I'd like it to last 30 + years, too! Mine is a Schumacher, and it's probably close to that old. They still make battery chargers, and while the graphics are different, this one looks to be very similar: http://fwd4.me/0gOS But I would expect to get that kind of service only from an old-fashioned "dumb" charger with a real AC transformer inside (heavy). The lightweight, 'smart' chargers mostly use DC-DC converters that tend to have a limited lifetime. -- Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Nov 7 17:46:56 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 16:46:56 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR4A - Fan temperature threshold question In-Reply-To: <61237FA2-7F97-4FA7-9B92-A375D04797DD@genfiniti.com> References: <61237FA2-7F97-4FA7-9B92-A375D04797DD@genfiniti.com> Message-ID: <03c501cc9daf$eae0cb20$0501a8c0@randall> > I found an in-line switch from Derale that turns on at 180, > and off at 165, > but don't know if those thresholds would be appropriate. That should work fine, IMO, as long as you mount the sensor either at the bottom of the radiator or in the return line to the engine. As Chris wrote, IMO that is the best place for a fan sensor anyway, since you only want it to come on when there is not enough airflow through the radiator to cool the engine. If the water is coming through the thermostat at 200F (for example), but dropping below 180F by the time it comes back from the radiator, then you don't need the fan running. DeRale also makes a fully adjustable model, which I would be using if I could figure out where I put it! -- Randall From diggle at clear.net.nz Mon Nov 7 19:44:00 2011 From: diggle at clear.net.nz (diggle at clear.net.nz) Date: Tue, 08 Nov 2011 15:44:00 +1300 Subject: [TR] TR3 Maradyne Heater Message-ID: <4eb89770.313.48cf.21340@clear.net.nz> I found that the heater valve out of the head, that the heater hose is attached to, was blocked by years of crud. This was after flushing the radiator. The engine is now in bits and has been caustic dipped so no more crud in my water ways. The engineless TR4 Jim From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Nov 7 21:26:30 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 20:26:30 -0800 Subject: [TR] wiper motor tr-3 In-Reply-To: <1320705255.17114.YahooMailNeo@web65314.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> References: <1320705255.17114.YahooMailNeo@web65314.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <042f01cc9dce$97b72dd0$0501a8c0@randall> > I'm wondering if a comparable weight > of plastic could > be used to fabricate. Plastic should do fine, but try to get something with a fairly high melting point. The inside of the motor can get pretty warm if it runs for a long time. If you know someone locally that dabbles in electronics, they might have a piece of bare printed circuit board that would do nicely. The original was phenolic (the brown stuff), but the green fiberglass stuff would work just as well. -- Randall From mlang99 at comcast.net Mon Nov 7 21:35:00 2011 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Mon, 07 Nov 2011 20:35:00 -0800 Subject: [TR] wiper motor tr-3 In-Reply-To: <1320705255.17114.YahooMailNeo@web65314.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> References: <1320705255.17114.YahooMailNeo@web65314.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4EB8B174.6050603@comcast.net> I ran in to the same problem when I rebuilt my wiper motor a couple of years ago. The little T shaped pieces crumbled when I took them out. I scrounged up a scrap piece of FR-4 printed circuit board material and fabricated new ones. An old PC, radio, or DVD player could be a donor. Just make sure to use a piece without copper (internal or external layers) so that you don't end up with a short. On 11/7/2011 2:34 PM, Gary Nafziger wrote: > I'm in the process of cleaning up my wiper motor and lost a tiny piece. This > piece is T shaped and seems to be made of circuit board material and two of > them hold the tiny spring that stretches and holds the brushes against the > armature. I'm just wondering if there is a source for these or a source of > material to make one. I'm wondering if a comparable weight of plastic could > be used to fabricate. Has anyone had this problem before? > > thanks > > gary n. > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mlang99 at comcast.net From carlsereda at aol.com Tue Nov 8 00:35:35 2011 From: carlsereda at aol.com (carlsereda) Date: Mon, 07 Nov 2011 23:35:35 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR wiper motor brush arm spring 'insulator' In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <923C78B6.2FAA.4130.A489.A5DB8A49E4D5@aol.com> Hi Gary, the top area of a plastic spray can cap would work.. using a nail clipper and other small sharp tools you can fashion something quite close enough to do the job.. doesn't have to be exact replica in fact the little triangle with 'hot pin' hole for the spring hook worked fine on mine.. Ca '63 TR4 since '74 I'm just wondering if there is a source for these or a source of material to make one. I'm wondering if a comparable weight of plastic could be used to fabricate. Has anyone had this problem before? From carlsereda at aol.com Tue Nov 8 00:38:09 2011 From: carlsereda at aol.com (carlsereda) Date: Mon, 07 Nov 2011 23:38:09 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3A fuel troubles In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <0E6B47EE.0A58.43EB.ABC4.E85CDBD14822@aol.com> Tim, Are you certain it is not a failing ignition coil? Carl '63 TR4 since '74 Eventually, same thing; lost power despite my playing with the throttle inputs, and eventually died. This time I left it a minute before starting. It started almost immediately and ran fine, but it was a repeat of the same scenario several times until I got home. I have done no diagnosis yet, so I could be wasting everyone's time. However, if anyone has any suggestions, I'd love to hear them. Maybe a bad float??? From tjwakeman at gmail.com Tue Nov 8 05:21:43 2011 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Tue, 08 Nov 2011 05:21:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A fuel troubles In-Reply-To: <0E6B47EE.0A58.43EB.ABC4.E85CDBD14822@aol.com> References: <0E6B47EE.0A58.43EB.ABC4.E85CDBD14822@aol.com> Message-ID: <4EB91ED7.3080109@gmail.com> On 11/8/11 12:38 AM, carlsereda wrote: > Tim, > Are you certain it is not a failing ignition coil? > Carl > '63 TR4 since '74 A failing coil often tends to start OK & maybe idle OK but have no power when you try to drive. Or a failing condenser? Similar symptoms. Some electrical problems have the same symptoms as fuel problems. Best to check both rather then focus exclusively on one unless it is an obvous visible failure. Teriann My TR3 is 50 years old this year and I've owned it for 25 of those years. I won't be able to say that anymore in a couple months but I find those number to be interesting. Especially since my TR3 is the newer and most recently purchased of my cars. > > Eventually, same thing; lost power despite my playing with the > throttle inputs, and eventually died. This time I left it a minute before > starting. It started almost immediately and ran fine, but it was a repeat > of the same scenario several times until I got home. From yellowtr at adelphia.net Tue Nov 8 06:26:13 2011 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Tue, 08 Nov 2011 08:26:13 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A fuel troubles In-Reply-To: <367f.5030a9d3.3be9b5a9@aol.com> References: <367f.5030a9d3.3be9b5a9@aol.com> Message-ID: <4EB92DF5.6040705@adelphia.net> Tim, If, after you check your coil and condenser as suggested, and you still have the same problem, take a look at the float valves. I had a similar problem on my TR3 fitted with the Grose jets and one or both were always getting stuck and preventing fuel flow. The car would start just fine, but after idling while I closed the garage door and I attempted to drive out the driveway, the car would stumble and finally stall. Examination of the float bowl showed one or both were empty. I finally fixed the problem by fitting original float valves. I could never figure out why the jet would stick closed but they did. Bob On 11/07/2011 05:28 PM, KingsCreekTrees at aol.com wrote: > Hello All; > > I drove into the nearest small town today, on mostly straight roads at > 50-60mph. I made a few stops at stores and the bank, then started off for home. > After the car had been sitting for probably an hour, it started great. I > pulled away onto the highway, got up to cruising speed and then there was a > sudden loss of power. It was missing (but not "sharply", suggesting to me > that it's a fuel problem and not ignition). Applying more throttle slowed > the car even more, applying less did the same. There was one throttle > position where the vehicle would maintain about 25mph, but running rough. > Eventually, it lost more and more power and finally the engine stalled. > > I let the engine sit maybe 30 seconds and tried to start it. It cranked > over for a longer time than usual before it fired, but when it started it ran > perfectly. I drove away and managed to get about a mile down the road > before the sudden power loss and rough running came in again. This time I was > able to nurse it along at 50mph (it's a flat road) as long as I kept it out > of overdrive. Eventually, same thing; lost power despite my playing with the > throttle inputs, and eventually died. This time I left it a minute before > starting. It started almost immediately and ran fine, but it was a repeat > of the same scenario several times until I got home. > > I have done no diagnosis yet, so I could be wasting everyone's time. > However, if anyone has any suggestions, I'd love to hear them. Maybe a bad > float??? > > Tim TS22930LO, Ontario, Canada. From spamiam at comcast.net Tue Nov 8 07:14:35 2011 From: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 8 Nov 2011 14:14:35 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3A fuel troubles In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <388931253.184602.1320761675742.JavaMail.root@sz0135a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Don't forget a bad coil.B Mine failed in with suimilar symptoms.B I, too, thought it was fuel, but it still turned out to be electrical. -Tony -------- Original Message -------- Message: 12 Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 17:28:58 -0500 (EST) From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR3A fuel troubles Message-ID: <367f.5030a9d3.3be9b5a9 at aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hello All; B I drove into the nearest small town today, on mostly straight roads at B 50-60mph. I made a few stops at stores and the bank, then started off for home. B After the car had been sitting for probably an hour, it started great. I pulled B away onto the highway, got up to cruising speed and then there was a sudden loss B of power. It was missing (but not "sharply", suggesting to me that it's a fuel B problem and not ignition). Applying more throttle slowed the car even more, B applying less did the same. There was one throttle position where the vehicle B would maintain about 25mph, but running rough. Eventually, it lost more and more B power and finally the engine stalled. B I let the engine sit maybe 30 seconds and tried to start it. It cranked B over for a longer time than usual before it fired, but when it started it ran B perfectly. I drove away and managed to get about a mile down the road before the B sudden power loss and rough running came in again. This time I was able to nurse B it along at 50mph (it's a flat road) as long as I kept it out of overdrive. B Eventually, same thing; lost power despite my playing with the throttle inputs, B and eventually died. This time I left it a minute before starting. It started B almost immediately and ran fine, but it was a repeat of the same scenario B several times until I got home. B I have done no diagnosis yet, so I could be wasting everyone's time. B However, if anyone has any suggestions, I'd love to hear them. Maybe a bad B float??? B Tim TS22930LO, Ontario, Canada. From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Tue Nov 8 08:28:44 2011 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Tue, 8 Nov 2011 07:28:44 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] TR3 Maradyne Heater In-Reply-To: <1320650181.85312.YahooMailRC@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <1320650181.85312.YahooMailRC@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1320766124.72597.YahooMailRC@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> So last night I removed the heater discharge hose at the through bulkhead fitting in the engine compartment. I started the engine and steaming hot water shot out through the fitting, showing that the heater core is clear and moving coolant. I had previously blocked off the coolant bypass (the little hose) using a pipe plug. I got the idea from Bob Schaller. I decided to remove that, which made no change. It looks like something is preventing the coolant from returning from the heater core to the radiator. I'll check tonight to see if the line is clear from the through bulkhead fitting (on the return) to the radiator. The car has a 185 thermostat in it and heats up to 185 when driving it on a cold night, so it appears the thermostat is working right. I also have the electric fan set to 185. I am thinking about changing out the thermostat tonight, but I fail to see what this would have to do with the heater return line. Any ideas? -Bill in Tehachapi ----- Original Message ---- From: William Brewer To: Triumphs Sent: Sun, November 6, 2011 11:16:21 PM Subject: TR3 Maradyne Heater A couple of years ago I installed a Maradyne heater in my TR3A. It was designed for a farm tractor, but fit in the TR. I got the idea from HVDA who did the same. It has worked very well compared to the original TR3A heater or a Triumph Spitfire core that I was using before the Maradyne. Anyway, we just had our second snow here in Tehachapi and the heater is blowing cold air. I checked the valve on top of the head and when the car is running, water is going through there. I gently blew the heater core out with a garden hose and it looks clear. What could be downstream from this that would block the coolant from going through the core? The car is running a 185 thermostat and getting up to temperature. I have the radiator part way blocked off to try to keep the heat in the engine compartment. The hose feeding the heater core is warm (not hot) and the hose leaving the core is cold. The last communication I had from FT was that he told me he had a heater in his TR that would burn you out of the cockpit it worked so well. I wonder what he had. I wonder what happened to his TR, does anyone know? Man, I am tired of trying to stay warm in a TR. Driving it to work tomorrow, bundled up. TIA, -Bill in Tehachapi From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Tue Nov 8 09:09:03 2011 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Tue, 8 Nov 2011 08:09:03 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] TR3 Maradyne Heater In-Reply-To: <1320768367.14408.YahooMailNeo@web29413.mail.ird.yahoo.com> References: <1320650181.85312.YahooMailRC@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <1320766124.72597.YahooMailRC@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <1320768367.14408.YahooMailNeo@web29413.mail.ird.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1320768543.66859.YahooMailRC@web83304.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> No Problems Jonmac, A Maradyne heater is an aftermarket heater made for a farm tractor cab. It'll sort of fit in a TR3 and when I installed it it really pumped out the heat. Now it won't. http://www.maradyne.com/maradyne_mobile/products/heaters/5000.html Bill in Tehachapi ________________________________ From: John Macartney To: William Brewer Sent: Tue, November 8, 2011 8:06:07 AM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Maradyne Heater Hi, Bill At the risk of being a PITA, what is a maradyne heater and how does it differ from the original unit? Cheers, Jonmac http://standard-triumph-books.co.uk From: William Brewer >To: Triumphs >Sent: Tuesday, 8 November 2011, 15:28 >Subject: [TR] TR3 Maradyne Heater > > So last night I removed the heater discharge hose at the through bulkhead >fitting in the engine compartment. I started the engine and steaming hot water >shot out through the fitting, showing that the heater core is clear and moving >coolant. > I had previously blocked off the coolant bypass (the little hose) using a >pipe plug. I got the idea from Bob Schaller. I decided to remove that, which >made no change. > It looks like something is preventing the coolant from returning from the >heater core to the radiator. I'll check tonight to see if the line is clear from > >the through bulkhead fitting (on the return) to the radiator. The car has a 185 > >thermostat in it and heats up to 185 when driving it on a cold night, so it >appears the thermostat is working right. I also have the electric fan set to >185. I am thinking about changing out the thermostat tonight, but I fail to see >what this would have to do with the heater return line. > Any ideas? > > -Bill in Tehachapi > > > > >----- Original Message ---- >From: William Brewer >To: Triumphs >Sent: Sun, November 6, 2011 11:16:21 PM >Subject: TR3 Maradyne Heater > > A couple of years ago I installed a Maradyne heater in my TR3A. It was >designed for a farm tractor, but fit in the TR. I got the idea from HVDA who >did > > >the same. It has worked very well compared to the original TR3A heater or a >Triumph Spitfire core that I was using before the Maradyne. Anyway, we just had >our second snow here in Tehachapi and the heater is blowing cold air. I checked >the valve on top of the head and when the car is running, water is going through > > >there. I gently blew the heater core out with a garden hose and it looks clear. >What could be downstream from this that would block the coolant from going >through the core? The car is running a 185 thermostat and getting up to >temperature. I have the radiator part way blocked off to try to keep the heat in > > >the engine compartment. The hose feeding the heater core is warm (not hot) and >the hose leaving the core is cold. > The last communication I had from FT was that he told me he had a heater in > > >his TR that would burn you out of the cockpit it worked so well. I wonder what >he had. I wonder what happened to his TR, does anyone know? > Man, I am tired of trying to stay warm in a TR. Driving it to work >tomorrow, bundled up. > TIA, > > -Bill in Tehachapi > > >triumphs at autox.team.net > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk From tr3a.60 at gmail.com Tue Nov 8 09:36:43 2011 From: tr3a.60 at gmail.com (John Wise) Date: Tue, 8 Nov 2011 11:36:43 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Maradyne Heater In-Reply-To: <1320768543.66859.YahooMailRC@web83304.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <1320650181.85312.YahooMailRC@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <1320766124.72597.YahooMailRC@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <1320768367.14408.YahooMailNeo@web29413.mail.ird.yahoo.com> <1320768543.66859.YahooMailRC@web83304.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8A87EC31-F135-4DBE-B66A-D023C9FD0F8F@gmail.com> Based in Bill Brewers advice I also bought the Maradyne heater for my TR3A. http://www.sportsimportsltd.com/12-volt-maradyne-cab-heater-12-500-btu.html I currently have it installed in my TR3 & it is putting out a lot of heat!!! It is so un-LBC!!! Unlike Bill I decided to turn the heater core 180 degrees in the box, so that I could attach the heater box directly to the back of the battery box and still have all the heat output doors in the right orientation. To do that I took the front off the box(6 screws), pulled out the core cut the tubes to size, I then cut two holes in the front for the input & output lines. I then cut off the in & out tubes to size & sweated on elbows to form a U that bends up over the top of the box. I decided on over-the-top so as to maintain the maximum space to be able to be able to get access to the under dash wiring. I used compression fittings to get tube size down from = inch to 3/8 inch, the size of the heater hose. See Figure 1. I also glued an old piece of cork gasket to the back to insulate the box against rattles and to cover the hole from the original tube exit holes. Figure 1 Side of heater facing onto the cockpit. I attached the heater to the inside of the back of the battery box using heavy-duty pop rivets (see figure 2), I tried to get the bottom of the heater box even with the bottom of the battery box. I then connected the water hoses and then the hot wire using my old heater fan control -- which works great! I found removing the tunnel carpet made it much easier to maneuver the box under the dash and into position. On the test drive I was surprised!!! I have never had an LBC that had such hot air!!! J Figure 2. Front of battery box showing the 5 pop rivet heads, Figure 3. Underdash photo. John John A. Wise Ormond Beach, FL 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Nov 8 10:51:47 2011 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 8 Nov 2011 12:51:47 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] TR3 Maradyne Heater Message-ID: <64b6.696c053f.3beac633@cs.com> In a message dated 11/8/2011 10:58:57 AM Central Standard Time, tr3a.60 at gmail.com writes: > Based in Bill Brewers advice I also bought the Maradyne heater for my > TR3A. > > http://www.sportsimportsltd.com/12-volt-maradyne-cab-heater-12-500-btu.html > > > I currently have it installed in my TR3 &it is putting out a lot of > heat!!! > It is so un-LBC!!! > > > John A. Wise > Ormond Beach, FL > Wait a minute! You live in Florida and you upgraded your heater!???? Why? Dave From kinderlehrer at comcast.net Tue Nov 8 11:09:00 2011 From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer) Date: Tue, 8 Nov 2011 18:09:00 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3 Maradyne Heater In-Reply-To: <1320766124.72597.YahooMailRC@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1264305249.1613554.1320775740846.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Bill, I don't know anything about this heater, but on my original TR3A heater, when t he output goes down from dismal to cold, it's usually because the capacity of the core is being deminished by buildup in the core itself.B Water coming out the output hose is hot because it never makes it way through t he core.B When that happens, I remove the heater, fill it with vinegar and water, shake rinse, flush, and repeat until I can fill it with whatever the rated capacity is. Perhaps your heater is similar in that regard. B Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "William Brewer" To: "Triumphs" Sent: Tuesday, November 8, 2011 7:28:44 AM Subject: [TR] TR3 Maradyne Heater B B B So last night I removed the heater discharge hose at the through bulkhead fitting in the engine compartment. I started the engine and steaming hot water shot out through the fitting, showing that the heater core is clear and moving coolant. B B B I had previously blocked off the coolant bypass (the little hose) using a pipe plug. I got the idea from Bob Schaller. I decided to remove that, which made no change. B B B It looks like something is preventing the coolant from returning from the heater core to the radiator. I'll check tonight to see if the line is clear from the through bulkhead fitting (on the return) to the radiator. The car has a 185 thermostat in it and heats up to 185 when driving it on a cold night, so it appears the thermostat is working right. I also have the electric fan set to 185. I am thinking about changing out the thermostat tonight, but I fail to see what this would have to do with the heater return line. B B B Any ideas? B B B -Bill in Tehachapi B B From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Tue Nov 8 13:46:57 2011 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Tue, 8 Nov 2011 13:46:57 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Maradyne Heater In-Reply-To: <64b6.696c053f.3beac633@cs.com> References: <64b6.696c053f.3beac633@cs.com> Message-ID: On Tue, Nov 8, 2011 at 10:51 AM, wrote: > Wait a minute! You live in Florida and you upgraded your heater!??? > Actually, as I recall John lived in Phoenix when he installed the new heater. I liked it so much I copied his method (Maradyne, reversing the core) but used barbed fittings: http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/Heater2.jpg http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/Heater3.jpg BTW -- It was below freezing in Tucson when I left the house this morning for our club's Tuesday coffee. Granted I had the aeroscreen on the TR3A so I expect cold, but that heater was of some help. Geo From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Nov 8 14:55:48 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 8 Nov 2011 13:55:48 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3A fuel troubles In-Reply-To: <4EB91ED7.3080109@gmail.com> References: <0E6B47EE.0A58.43EB.ABC4.E85CDBD14822@aol.com> <4EB91ED7.3080109@gmail.com> Message-ID: <0ee801cc9e61$2d8b9340$88a2b9c0$@rr.com> > My TR3 is 50 years old this year and I've owned it for 25 of those > years. I won't be able to say that anymore in a couple months but I > find those number to be interesting. I do hope that means the car is turning 51; not that you are selling it. -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Nov 8 15:12:55 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 8 Nov 2011 14:12:55 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3 Maradyne Heater In-Reply-To: <1320766124.72597.YahooMailRC@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <1320650181.85312.YahooMailRC@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <1320766124.72597.YahooMailRC@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <0eec01cc9e63$916b9700$b442c500$@rr.com> My money is on the return line along the LH side of the engine. I've seen them so badly blocked that I couldn't even drill through the crud. You said the return line was cold with it connected normally, so obviously there is a blockage between the point where you disconnected it and the front end of that line (which opens directly into the inlet side of the water pump). Opening the bypass won't help, as it just provides another path around the water pump (although I think it is a bad idea to leave the bypass fully blocked, as you really want some water flowing through the head all the time). FWIW, I noticed the other day that Scrappy (the TR3 that Steve Hedke built to drive in The Great Race) is wearing an oversize round heater that looks rather similar to the original unit, but sticks down an extra few inches and has the doors angled to the sides. I have forgotten the details, but it is sold as a Land Rover part and available from British Pacific. Steve said it uses a single long tube instead of the many parallel tubes that the original heater used, and so it is almost impossible for it to get plugged up. I didn't ask Scrappy's new owner how well it works, but it might be an option for those of you who are considering an upgrade and want something a bit closer to "period correct". If you would like more information, contact Steve at: British Pacific Ltd. 26007 Huntington Lane, unit 2 Valencia, CA. 91355 USA tech: 661 257-8634 e-mail: britpac at aol.com http://www.landroverparts.us -- Randall From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Tue Nov 8 16:23:36 2011 From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com) Date: Tue, 8 Nov 2011 18:23:36 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] TR3A fuel troubles Message-ID: <4c49a.23815f79.3beb13f8@aol.com> Nice one, Randall. Tim In a message dated 08/11/2011 5:24:55 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > My TR3 is 50 years old this year and I've owned it for 25 of those > years. I won't be able to say that anymore in a couple months but I > find those number to be interesting. I do hope that means the car is turning 51; not that you are selling it. -- Randall triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/kingscreektrees at aol.com From guy at genfiniti.com Tue Nov 8 17:26:00 2011 From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins) Date: Tue, 8 Nov 2011 18:26:00 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR4A - Compression Check Numbers Message-ID: <140890E8-9C7B-4890-A1CA-01A8E8E95219@genfiniti.com> All, My engine, with 87mm pistons, now has 700 miles on it with no issues. (knock on wood.) Just ran a baseline compression check for future comparisons. Numbers were as follows: 1 - 165 psi 2 - 167 psi 3 - 169 psi 4 - 168 psi Looks like a good grouping, but do the numbers look good for the mileage? Unlike the cam lobe lift numbers, I cannot find any compression numbers in the manual to compare these against. Cheers, Guy D. Huggins 1965 Triumph TR4A CTC 63569LO Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Nov 8 18:29:40 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 8 Nov 2011 17:29:40 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR4A - Compression Check Numbers In-Reply-To: <140890E8-9C7B-4890-A1CA-01A8E8E95219@genfiniti.com> References: <140890E8-9C7B-4890-A1CA-01A8E8E95219@genfiniti.com> Message-ID: <0f6301cc9e7f$0e09f2f0$2a1dd8d0$@rr.com> Too many things other than engine condition will affect the absolute numbers recorded; including which model of compression gauge you use and what the weather is like today. So the _only_ thing to look at is the agreement between the numbers, and yours are outstanding. -- Randall From wbeech at flash.net Tue Nov 8 19:24:36 2011 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Tue, 8 Nov 2011 20:24:36 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR4A - Compression Check Numbers In-Reply-To: <140890E8-9C7B-4890-A1CA-01A8E8E95219@genfiniti.com> References: <140890E8-9C7B-4890-A1CA-01A8E8E95219@genfiniti.com> Message-ID: <586D836473AD49849B941A9BBA640790@bboffice> Guy, Those are great numbers. I went with the 87mm pistons when we re-built the TR3 3,000 miles ago and I just checked the compression last weekend 150-155psi and I am very happy. Obviously, compression numbers will vary dependant on the compression ratio but for a relatively stock engine I would say 165psi is a real good number. Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of G.D. Huggins Sent: Tuesday, November 08, 2011 6:26 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR4A - Compression Check Numbers All, My engine, with 87mm pistons, now has 700 miles on it with no issues. (knock on wood.) Just ran a baseline compression check for future comparisons. Numbers were as follows: 1 - 165 psi 2 - 167 psi 3 - 169 psi 4 - 168 psi Looks like a good grouping, but do the numbers look good for the mileage? Unlike the cam lobe lift numbers, I cannot find any compression numbers in the manual to compare these against. Cheers, Guy D. Huggins 1965 Triumph TR4A CTC 63569LO Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From allegrorover at mac.com Tue Nov 8 20:49:08 2011 From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio) Date: Tue, 08 Nov 2011 22:49:08 -0500 Subject: [TR] Ammeter shunt Message-ID: I've seen quite a bit of talk about the shunt that is required for an alternator conversion. I have Dan Masters wiring harness and my ammeter doesn't move, I really didn't think much of it figuring the alternator was doing it's job. Can or would someone please give me a laymans explanation on what I need to do or install to do this shunt. I apologize in advance for not being up to speed on some of the technical electrical terms but I think I should try this so I can get at least some idea what's going on with my charging system. TIA Tony Cascio 58 TR3A TS27093L From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Tue Nov 8 21:40:40 2011 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Tue, 8 Nov 2011 20:40:40 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Maradyne Heater Epilogue Message-ID: <1320813640.32402.YahooMailRC@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> So I finally got a spare moment to tear into the TR3 to figure out why the heater won't work. It turns out that the steel return line (on left side of the head) from the heater is completely rusted solid. I don't remember it being that old. I probably had the heater valve on the head off for too long and didn't get enough flow through the line. I am going to order a new one. Does anyone fabricate the heater return line in stainless steel? I've had the TR for 19 years now and expect to be driving it for about 40 more years. Stainless would serve me well over time. Thanks for everyone's help from the list. -Bill in Tehachapi From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Nov 8 21:45:18 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 8 Nov 2011 20:45:18 -0800 Subject: [TR] Ammeter shunt In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <051b01cc9e9a$62032ff0$0501a8c0@randall> There are different approaches; mine is quite a bit different than Dan's. What I did (the first time) was to undo the ammeter mounting and let it (carefully) hang out of the dash while I experimented with adding strands of steel wire across the ammeter terminals. I first noted the needle deflection with the headlights on; and then added strands of steel "handy" wire until the deflection was about half of it's original amount. As I recall, the wire was about 18 or 20 AWG, just ordinary steel "handy" wire (aka baling wire) and I wound up with 3 or 4 strands of it, just long enough to reach across the ammeter terminals. Once I was happy with the division ratio, I reinstalled the ammeter in the dash, with the wires still in place. That setup worked fine for many years, with my 60 amp Ford alternator. More recently I got fancy, and measured the resistance of several TR3 ammeters. From that measurement, I calculated the length of insulated copper that would produce the same resistance, and added that across the terminals. Here's a photo taken as I was disassembling the car after it got wrecked: http://fwd4.me/0gSZ According to my notes, I measured the resistance at 1.6 milliohms (or 0.016 ohms, obviously not with an ordinary ohmmeter), and used 3.5 inches of 16 AWG copper wire. But of course before applying either approach, you'll have to straighten out your wiring so the ammeter reads current to/from the battery. It may have changed later, but the instructions I got from Dan show this as the "60 amp ammeter option" in figure 9. -- Randall From darrellw360 at mac.com Tue Nov 8 22:27:31 2011 From: darrellw360 at mac.com (Darrell Walker) Date: Tue, 08 Nov 2011 21:27:31 -0800 Subject: [TR] Maradyne Heater Epilogue In-Reply-To: <1320813640.32402.YahooMailRC@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <1320813640.32402.YahooMailRC@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: On Nov 8, 2011, at 8:40 PM, William Brewer wrote: > > Does anyone fabricate the heater return line in stainless steel? I've had > the TR for 19 years now and expect to be driving it for about 40 more years. > Stainless would serve me well over time. Moss does: http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29173 I'm pretty sure TRF does, too. -Darrell -- Darrell Walker 66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L 81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206 Vancouver, WA, USA From mhooper at indiefilmnet.com Tue Nov 8 22:51:06 2011 From: mhooper at indiefilmnet.com (Mark Hooper) Date: Wed, 09 Nov 2011 00:51:06 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 mention In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Here's a cute TR6 photo that someone put in yet another list of cars. This one from the nostalgia angle. http://autos.sympatico.ca/photos-videos/9766/cool-cars-we-miss/10 Mark 1972 TR6 From david.brister at wanadoo.fr Wed Nov 9 03:11:03 2011 From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister) Date: Wed, 9 Nov 2011 11:11:03 +0100 Subject: [TR] Maradyne Heater Epilogue In-Reply-To: <1320813640.32402.YahooMailRC@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <1320813640.32402.YahooMailRC@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <209AF3DF225D45B18C0ACDE3DC3FDEC1@dbristerPC> I had this problem many years ago, the heater to rad pipe was so rusted it started leaking. Having some limited plumbing skill I made a new one from 1/2" copper tube re sweated onto the fixing by the water pump. It took half a morning and is still working perfectly. David Brister TR4A CTC 77785 O From tjwakeman at gmail.com Wed Nov 9 05:31:15 2011 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Wed, 09 Nov 2011 05:31:15 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A fuel troubles In-Reply-To: <0ee801cc9e61$2d8b9340$88a2b9c0$@rr.com> References: <0E6B47EE.0A58.43EB.ABC4.E85CDBD14822@aol.com> <4EB91ED7.3080109@gmail.com> <0ee801cc9e61$2d8b9340$88a2b9c0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <4EBA7293.9080102@gmail.com> On 11/8/11 2:55 PM, Randall wrote: >> My TR3 is 50 years old this year and I've owned it for 25 of those >> years. I won't be able to say that anymore in a couple months but I >> find those number to be interesting. > I do hope that means the car is turning 51; not that you are selling it. > > -- Randall > > Yes the TR will be turning 51 and my time with it will be turning 26. Just as my Land Rover will be turning 52 and my time with her 34 years. I'm one of those people who anticipate and delight in such things as odomoters turning over so my car reaching half a centry at the same time I've owned my car for half its existance seemed especially fortuitious. > I still think of the 3 as the new car, even though she cost me a bundle in 2011. Hard top, boot lid and front valance all taken down to bare metal and repainted. New headliner in the hard top. New cam& lifters to replace the flat ones because I thought my oil had more ZDDP than it did. New valve job while the cam was out. Purchase& install of a limited slip. New rear brakes. New aluminum front hubs& axles that are a lot stronger than stock. I ended up buying& remodeling a house this summer so the new hubs are still in a box. Unless I buy a heater for the garage, installing the hubs will wait until late spring. No, my TR3 along with my Land Rover will most likely be part of an estate sale. Hopefully sometime far in the future. Teriann From Chip19474 at aol.com Wed Nov 9 05:50:42 2011 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 9 Nov 2011 07:50:42 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] TR4A - Compression Check Numbers Message-ID: <5bf6c.520ec086.3bebd121@aol.com> They are excellent numbers...good job. Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U In a message dated 11/8/2011 7:56:53 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, guy at genfiniti.com writes: do the numbers look good for the mileage? From dixie4.wales at virgin.net Wed Nov 9 06:53:05 2011 From: dixie4.wales at virgin.net (Dixie4) Date: Wed, 9 Nov 2011 13:53:05 -0000 Subject: [TR] Maradyne Heater Epilogue In-Reply-To: <1320813640.32402.YahooMailRC@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <1320813640.32402.YahooMailRC@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <0DA140186D44460EA6DC94F55FF78F58@AdrianPC> You can certainly buy stainless return pipes in UK so I would think that they are also available in the US. I got mine on eBay UK it is well made and would look very fine in natural colour but I will be painting it black for originality. Adrian Dix-Dyer TR4A CT64306 O Wales UK ----- Original Message ----- From: "William Brewer" To: "Triumphs" Sent: Wednesday, November 09, 2011 4:40 AM Subject: [TR] Maradyne Heater Epilogue > So I finally got a spare moment to tear into the TR3 to figure out why > the > heater won't work. It turns out that the steel return line (on left side > of the > head) from the heater is completely rusted solid. I don't remember it > being that > old. I probably had the heater valve on the head off for too long and > didn't get > enough flow through the line. I am going to order a new one. > Does anyone fabricate the heater return line in stainless steel? I've > had > the TR for 19 years now and expect to be driving it for about 40 more > years. > Stainless would serve me well over time. > Thanks for everyone's help from the list. > > -Bill in Tehachapi > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dixie4.wales at virgin.net From adcronin at ameritech.net Wed Nov 9 07:04:01 2011 From: adcronin at ameritech.net (Dan Cronin) Date: Wed, 9 Nov 2011 09:04:01 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Maradyne Heater In-Reply-To: <0eec01cc9e63$916b9700$b442c500$@rr.com> References: <1320650181.85312.YahooMailRC@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <1320766124.72597.YahooMailRC@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <0eec01cc9e63$916b9700$b442c500$@rr.com> Message-ID: Folks Along the same lines (alternate heaters), Revington TR in England sells a heater upgrade using a Clayton 4kw heater unit. It is a bolt in kit for the TR2-3b series. A bit expensive, but is very nice, includes the outlets for the defrosters and has left and right cockpit outlets that are adjustable for L/R, U/D. For those curious, the part no on their website is: RTR1395K Dan On Nov 8, 2011, at 5:12 PM, Randall wrote: > My money is on the return line along the LH side of the engine. > > FWIW, I noticed the other day that Scrappy (the TR3 that Steve Hedke built > to drive in The Great Race) is wearing an oversize round heater that looks > rather similar to the original unit, but sticks down an extra few inches and > has the doors angled to the sides. I have forgotten the details, but it is > sold as a Land Rover part and available from British Pacific. Steve said it > uses a single long tube instead of the many parallel tubes that the original > heater used, and so it is almost impossible for it to get plugged up. > > I didn't ask Scrappy's new owner how well it works, but it might be an > option for those of you who are considering an upgrade and want something a > bit closer to "period correct". If you would like more information, contact > Steve at: > British Pacific Ltd. > 26007 Huntington Lane, unit 2 > Valencia, CA. 91355 USA > tech: 661 257-8634 > e-mail: britpac at aol.com > http://www.landroverparts.us > > -- Randall From adcronin at ameritech.net Wed Nov 9 07:08:03 2011 From: adcronin at ameritech.net (Dan Cronin) Date: Wed, 9 Nov 2011 09:08:03 -0500 Subject: [TR] Maradyne Heater Epilogue In-Reply-To: <1320813640.32402.YahooMailRC@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <1320813640.32402.YahooMailRC@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Also TRF has that part. On Nov 8, 2011, at 11:40 PM, William Brewer wrote: > > Does anyone fabricate the heater return line in stainless steel? I've had > the TR for 19 years now and expect to be driving it for about 40 more years. > Stainless would serve me well over time. > Thanks for everyone's help from the list. > > -Bill in Tehachapi > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/adcronin at ameritech.net From guy at genfiniti.com Wed Nov 9 07:29:25 2011 From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins) Date: Wed, 9 Nov 2011 08:29:25 -0600 Subject: [TR] Ammeter shunt In-Reply-To: <051b01cc9e9a$62032ff0$0501a8c0@randall> References: <051b01cc9e9a$62032ff0$0501a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <2EF83A35-5B83-4EBF-8D29-283CEFB2F2B7@genfiniti.com> Anthony, I've got the same kit and installed it this past summer on my TR4A. I followed the instructions for the "shunt option" (described on page 9 of the booklet) to a "T", and the stock ammeter just doesn't move. At one point I went so far to confirm that the reconditioned ammeter was actually working, which it was. >From all appearances, I surmise that the shunt option from the Master's instructions just doesn't leave enough current to flow through the ammeter. In other words, the shunt actually carries all the charge, instead of roughly half, leaving hardly anything for the ammeter. In the end, I installed a voltmeter. If you do a shunt, use Randall's approach, as it might actually work. On Nov 8, 2011, at 10:45 PM, Randall wrote: > There are different approaches; mine is quite a bit different than Dan's. > > What I did (the first time) was to undo the ammeter mounting and let it > (carefully) hang out of the dash while I experimented with adding strands of > steel wire across the ammeter terminals. I first noted the needle > deflection with the headlights on; and then added strands of steel "handy" > wire until the deflection was about half of it's original amount. As I > recall, the wire was about 18 or 20 AWG, just ordinary steel "handy" wire > (aka baling wire) and I wound up with 3 or 4 strands of it, just long enough > to reach across the ammeter terminals. Once I was happy with the division > ratio, I reinstalled the ammeter in the dash, with the wires still in place. > That setup worked fine for many years, with my 60 amp Ford alternator. > > More recently I got fancy, and measured the resistance of several TR3 > ammeters. From that measurement, I calculated the length of insulated > copper that would produce the same resistance, and added that across the > terminals. Here's a photo taken as I was disassembling the car after it got > wrecked: > http://fwd4.me/0gSZ > > According to my notes, I measured the resistance at 1.6 milliohms (or 0.016 > ohms, obviously not with an ordinary ohmmeter), and used 3.5 inches of 16 > AWG copper wire. > > But of course before applying either approach, you'll have to straighten out > your wiring so the ammeter reads current to/from the battery. It may have > changed later, but the instructions I got from Dan show this as the "60 amp > ammeter option" in figure 9. > > -- Randall > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/guy at genfiniti.com From sumton at sbcglobal.net Wed Nov 9 07:37:36 2011 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Wed, 9 Nov 2011 08:37:36 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR6 mention In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <66909A5FA5CA48B7B51C31623722CBB7@ranteer.local> the grill is red????? -------------------------------------------------- From: "Mark Hooper" Sent: Tuesday, November 08, 2011 11:51 PM To: Subject: [TR] TR6 mention > Here's a cute TR6 photo that someone put in yet another list of cars. This > one from the nostalgia angle. > > http://autos.sympatico.ca/photos-videos/9766/cool-cars-we-miss/10 > > Mark > 1972 TR6 From n197tr4 at cs.com Thu Nov 10 12:14:36 2011 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2011 14:14:36 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] AmBro co-creator caught on film In-Reply-To: <58734388.1980154.1320951504781.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <58734388.1980154.1320951504781.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <8CE6DF41E9A98C2-340-8FBF@webmail-d012.sysops.aol.com> Thanks Phil! Excellent! This picture is my first evidence that DEWEY actually existed. Bill Ames and I became close friends in the 90s and then UNCLE JACK and I became good friends of Robert Ames, Bill's son. Bill and Dewey would be happy to know that the AMBRO will be featured in Geoff Hacker's three volume book, FORGOTTEN FIBREGLASS. I met with Geoff Hacker a few weeks ago when he and his partner Rick D'Louhy, came to IOWA. This will be a very comprehensive and exciting history of American ingenuity in the development one off specials and low volume production cars. Google FORGOTTEN FIBREGLASS and subscribe to Geoff's postings. He is very prolific. Regards, Joe Alexander AMBRO #97 TR4 #197 TR3A MIATA :-) -----Original Message----- From: pethier To: triumphs Cc: n197tr4 Sent: Thu, Nov 10, 2011 12:58 pm Subject: AmBro co-creator caught on film http://www.comicozzie.com/gallery2/v/1973/IR73/miscIIRA/75IIRA-13_001.jpg.htm l This is Duane "Dewey" Brohaugh, the "Bro" in the original "AmBro". Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://www.mnautox.com From deruiterville at hotmail.com Wed Nov 9 11:47:45 2011 From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter) Date: Wed, 9 Nov 2011 12:47:45 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3A fuel troubles In-Reply-To: <4EBA7293.9080102@gmail.com> References: <0E6B47EE.0A58.43EB.ABC4.E85CDBD14822@aol.com>, <4EB91ED7.3080109@gmail.com> <0ee801cc9e61$2d8b9340$88a2b9c0$@rr.com>,<4EBA7293.9080102@gmail.com> Message-ID: TeriAnn- Did you put in the rack and pinion as well, or decide to stick with the worm and peg setup? I thought that was in the works as well. Randy fortuitious. > > I still think of the 3 as the new car, even though she cost me a bundle in 2011. Hard top, boot lid and front valance all taken down to bare metal and repainted. New headliner in the hard top. New cam& lifters to replace the flat ones because I thought my oil had more ZDDP than it did. New valve job while the cam was out. Purchase& install of a limited slip. New rear brakes. New aluminum front hubs& axles that are a lot stronger than stock. I ended up buying& remodeling a house this summer so the new hubs are still in a box. Unless I buy a heater for the garage, installing the hubs will wait until late spring. > No, my TR3 along with my Land Rover will most likely be part of an > estate sale. Hopefully sometime far in the future. > > Teriann From tjwakeman at gmail.com Wed Nov 9 16:24:37 2011 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Wed, 09 Nov 2011 16:24:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A fuel troubles In-Reply-To: References: <0E6B47EE.0A58.43EB.ABC4.E85CDBD14822@aol.com>, <4EB91ED7.3080109@gmail.com> <0ee801cc9e61$2d8b9340$88a2b9c0$@rr.com>,<4EBA7293.9080102@gmail.com> Message-ID: <4EBB0BB5.2090701@gmail.com> On 11/9/11 11:47 AM, Randy and Valerie DeRuiter wrote: > TeriAnn- > > Did you put in the rack and pinion as well, or decide to stick with > the worm and peg setup? I thought that was in the works as well. The rack and pinion went on in 2010 which is why I didn't mention it. At the same time a 6 blade water pump and aluminum radiator went on as well as well as a new front main seal. The TR3 got a lot of presents during this year and last. Teriann From diggle at clear.net.nz Wed Nov 9 11:53:59 2011 From: diggle at clear.net.nz (diggle at clear.net.nz) Date: Thu, 10 Nov 2011 07:53:59 +1300 Subject: [TR] TR4A - Compression Check Numbers Message-ID: <4ebacc47.2a6.867.30128@clear.net.nz> Those compression numbers are great. Mine were 160 - 165 using a low grade tester. Then I took my engine apart and found that the, 20,000 mile since, recond motor had 1 broken top ring and all the other top rings had worn the sides of the piston grooves. The other pistons grooves and rings were fine hence the great compression. The cause was badly gapped top rings. The motor idled and drove well even with the above. Jim and his soon to be re reconditioned motor. From dkspence at telus.net Fri Nov 11 12:27:27 2011 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence) Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2011 12:27:27 -0700 Subject: [TR] Chart one Auto?? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <605329E9-B9AF-4855-8100-8901BB3CC144@telus.net> Anyone had dealings with Chart one? Looking at carpet sets. Thanks From keithstewart at execulink.com Sat Nov 12 16:19:49 2011 From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart) Date: Sat, 12 Nov 2011 18:19:49 -0500 Subject: [TR] Chart one Auto?? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: > Anyone had dealings with Chart one? Looking at carpet sets. > Thanks > ------------------------------ Justin Mercier on the 6Pack Forum reported recently: I have one of these sets that I bought this summer, sitting in its box still in my living room. I'll write a review when I get it installed, but from what I've seen pulling it out of the box it seems great quality for the money. Keith R. Stewart 75 Camden Road London, Ontario N5X 2K2 Home: (519) 660-1916 E-Mail: keithstewart at execulink.com From tr6parts at charter.net Sat Nov 12 17:23:47 2011 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore) Date: Sat, 12 Nov 2011 19:23:47 -0500 Subject: [TR] Chart one Auto?? References: Message-ID: <7854733F3DFB454180CD8AB2180EEA04@Alan> I bought and installed one. Its a good econo carpet set. It is made up of mostly House style jute backed carpet, which makes it rather stiff when going over contoured areas like the rockers and transmisstion cover. I had to beat it with a rubber hammer to follow the contour. Fine for the floor area. Unlike an automotive carpet which is rubber backed and more flexible for contoured areas. I also did not like the sewn in rubber mat on the passenger side. So its not the same quality as TRF, but its a lot less expensive. Al ----- Original Message ----- From: "Keith Stewart" To: Cc: Sent: Saturday, November 12, 2011 6:19 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Chart one Auto?? >> Anyone had dealings with Chart one? Looking at carpet sets. >> Thanks >> ------------------------------ > Justin Mercier on the 6Pack Forum reported recently: > > I have one of these sets that I bought this summer, sitting in its box > still > in my living room. I'll write a review when I get it installed, but from > what > I've seen pulling it out of the box it seems great quality for the money. From jmitch at snet.net Sat Nov 12 17:49:51 2011 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Sat, 12 Nov 2011 19:49:51 -0500 Subject: [TR] Rebuilding a brake servo Message-ID: <4EBF142F.6020000@snet.net> I have 2 halves of a brake servo that were just re plated and a servo rebuild kit for my Stag. I was wondering how difficult it is to get the servo together and are there any articles about doing this procedure without sending it out to professionals? Thanks for any advice. John Mitchell 72 Stag 76 TR6 From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Nov 13 07:43:37 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2011 06:43:37 -0800 Subject: [TR] [stag] Rebuilding a brake servo In-Reply-To: <4EBF142F.6020000@snet.net> References: <4EBF142F.6020000@snet.net> Message-ID: <011d01cca212$a15e88e0$0501a8c0@randall> > I was wondering how difficult it is > to get the > servo together and are there any articles about doing this procedure > without sending it out to professionals? Although the TR6 servo is somewhat different, this article may be helpful: http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Brakes/Servo/Servo.htm -- Randall From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Sun Nov 13 14:43:53 2011 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2011 13:43:53 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] TR3A Sighting Morro Bay Message-ID: <1321220633.56994.YahooMailRC@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I am in Morro Bay, California for the weekend. Today at about noon on the embarcadero I saw a recently restored dark gray/blue TR3A with a guy & girl and brown & white Australian Shepherd in the back. My wife wouldn't let me yell to him. Was that anyone we know? His TR looked good. Mine is getting a little doggy looking. I also saw a red Austin Healey 3000 and a green Jag Mk2 that had been upgraded by lowering, Minilites and installing a 5 speed. -Bill in Tehachapi From wbeech at flash.net Sun Nov 13 16:54:39 2011 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2011 17:54:39 -0600 Subject: [TR] Transmission re-build/service Message-ID: I am putting an new clutch in this winter and while I don't have many complaints about my original/stock TR3 transmission I was just wondering if this would not be a good time to check for worn parts and replace as needed. I am experiencing no odd noises and about the only 'problem' I seem to have is downshifting from 4th to 3rd while at speed, such as when I want to pass another car. Is this a bad syncro? Would it be wise to go ahead and replace all the syncros just to be safe while it is apart? Thanks in advance for your valued advice. Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Nov 13 18:43:54 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2011 17:43:54 -0800 Subject: [TR] Transmission re-build/service In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <020201cca26e$de6decb0$0501a8c0@randall> > about the only 'problem' > I seem to have > is downshifting from 4th to 3rd while at speed, Could be a worn synchro, but it's unusual (in my limited experience) for the 4th gear synchro to wear out first. I would also check the force required to move the shift ring on the hub (which is how much force gets applied to the synchro ring during shifting), and for wear in the cone on the input shaft (where the friction surface of the synchro ring rides). > I was > just wondering if > this would not be a good time to check for worn parts and > replace as needed. You might want to read through some of the articles on the subject, and decide if this is something you want to tackle. It's certainly do-able, but I would rate it "4 wrenches" on a scale of 1 to 4. You'll need to buy some special tools, and make several more. There's a good series of articles on the Buckeye Triumphs site, and another on the VTR site. BTW, if anyone is interested, I was in the local OSH yesterday and they had Sta-Lube brand GL4 gear oil on the shelf in both quarts and gallons, 85W90 and 140 weight. Looked kind of dusty though, so I don't know if they will get more once those sell. -- Randall From ambritts at bellsouth.net Sun Nov 13 19:00:48 2011 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2011 21:00:48 -0500 Subject: [TR] Mystery Smoke Message-ID: <5ADA5641E3834D3496D550075C21874B@AlexPC> After a 120 mile run trip drive today, my 59 TR3A developed a most confusing issue. A club member following behind was engulfed in a cloud of smoke when returning on this 60 mile run. This went on for about 20 miles where at times I could not see his Mini. On the first leg of the trip, the car started running rough but would get to speed easily. When parked (at a show) and opening the bonnet, I found the intake and carbs coated in water droplets. Completely coated. This has happened before but no ones has a clue as to the cause including the top LBC mechanics in the area. On the way home is when the major smoking issued occurred. I needed to keep the car at low RPM's to minimize the smoke screen. The smoke appeared to be white as in a steam cloud. What one would expect from a blown head gasket. After the trip, I spoke with my club member who was behind me for 60 miles. Even engulfed in smoke, his car had no visible oil coating of any kind....not on his car or windscreen. There was also no smell of smoke or smell of any kind. The oil in the sump is clear and clean. No visible water droplets or milky look. Water level in the radiator is about 1" from the cap. There is water in the neck of the radiator. The engine breather pipe is dripping oil which never occurred before. The valve cover cap also showing smoke exiting, which never occurred before. Carbs and intake covered in water droplets. Once before I pulled the air cleaners and the inside of the carbs had the same water droplets. That time the car stalled from the water entering the engine. These droplets are definitely from condensation. Oil level consumption in 120 miles of 60-70 mph driving about 1/8 of a quart of oil. Oil pressure strong at about 55 lbs. Water temp below 180. Car ran rough at idle as one would expect from a bad tank of gas.....water in the gas type of running. So before doing the usual tests next weekend...........any ideas or suggestions.. Thanks in advance. Alex Manzo 59 TR3A From mark at bradakis.com Sun Nov 13 19:11:13 2011 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2011 19:11:13 -0700 Subject: [TR] [British-cars] Transmission re-build/service In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4EC078C1.1060308@bradakis.com> If you still lived in Utah I'd be happy to work on your gearbox. I've done one or two in my time ;-) Normally the 3rd and 4th gear synchros don't wear as much as 2nd gear, and 1st if you have a full synchro box. It may be an issue with the thrust washers on the layshaft, though if the layshaft is flopping around you tend to get poor shifts in all gears and a general noisy operation. One possibility is that the car is totally worthless, unfit for driving. Bring it by my place and I'll give you $100 cash for it. mjb. From wbeech at flash.net Sun Nov 13 19:40:35 2011 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2011 20:40:35 -0600 Subject: [TR] [British-cars] Transmission re-build/service In-Reply-To: <4EC078C1.1060308@bradakis.com> References: <4EC078C1.1060308@bradakis.com> Message-ID: So, replace the syncros & examine the layshaft? I feel certain the bearings are all good. Anything else? BTW, you've seen my car, I wouldn't take a penny less that $125. Sent from mobile Bill On Nov 13, 2011, at 8:11 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote: > If you still lived in Utah I'd be happy to work on your gearbox. I've done > one or two in my time ;-) Normally the 3rd and 4th gear synchros don't > wear as much as 2nd gear, and 1st if you have a full synchro box. It may > be an issue with the thrust washers on the layshaft, though if the layshaft > is flopping around you tend to get poor shifts in all gears and a general > noisy operation. > > One possibility is that the car is totally worthless, unfit for driving. Bring > it by my place and I'll give you $100 cash for it. > > mjb. > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sun Nov 13 19:43:03 2011 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2011 20:43:03 -0600 Subject: [TR] Mystery Smoke In-Reply-To: <5ADA5641E3834D3496D550075C21874B@AlexPC> References: <5ADA5641E3834D3496D550075C21874B@AlexPC> Message-ID: probably not relevant but I'm posting anyway . . . . a friend bought a car and decided to drive it home. at some point it too developed a steam cloud. found a mechanic who put it on a lift. the spare gallon of water they put in the trunk was leaking down onto the exhaust . . . -------------------------------------------------- From: "Alex" Sent: Sunday, November 13, 2011 8:00 PM To: "*Triumphs List" Subject: [TR] Mystery Smoke > After a 120 mile run trip drive today, my 59 TR3A developed a most > confusing > issue. > > A club member following behind was engulfed in a cloud of smoke when > returning > on this 60 mile run. This went on for about 20 miles where at times I > could > not see his Mini. > > On the first leg of the trip, the car started running rough but would get > to > speed easily. When parked (at a show) and opening the bonnet, I found the > intake and carbs coated in water droplets. Completely coated. This has > happened before but no ones has a clue as to the cause including the top > LBC > mechanics in the area. > > On the way home is when the major smoking issued occurred. I needed to > keep > the car at low RPM's to minimize the smoke screen. The smoke appeared to > be > white as in a steam cloud. What one would expect from a blown head gasket. > After the trip, I spoke with my club member who was behind me for 60 > miles. > Even engulfed in smoke, his car had no visible oil coating of any > kind....not > on his car or windscreen. There was also no smell of smoke or smell of any > kind. > > The oil in the sump is clear and clean. No visible water droplets or milky > look. Water level in the radiator is about 1" from the cap. There is water > in > the neck of the radiator. The engine breather pipe is dripping oil which > never > occurred before. The valve cover cap also showing smoke exiting, which > never > occurred before. Carbs and intake covered in water droplets. Once before I > pulled the air cleaners and the inside of the carbs had the same water > droplets. That time the car stalled from the water entering the engine. > These > droplets are definitely from condensation. Oil level consumption in 120 > miles > of 60-70 mph driving about 1/8 of a quart of oil. Oil pressure strong at > about > 55 lbs. Water temp below 180. Car ran rough at idle as one would expect > from a > bad tank of gas.....water in the gas type of running. > > So before doing the usual tests next weekend...........any ideas or > suggestions.. > > Thanks in advance. From pethier at comcast.net Sun Nov 13 21:46:46 2011 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 04:46:46 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] [British-cars] Transmission re-build/service In-Reply-To: <4EC078C1.1060308@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <65585975.2111735.1321246006618.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> > One possibility is that the car is totally worthless, unfit for > driving. Bring > it by my place and I'll give you $100 cash for it. Heck, it was worth more than that when I saw it in Afton Minnesota. :-) Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://www.mnautox.com From wbeech at flash.net Sun Nov 13 22:15:27 2011 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2011 23:15:27 -0600 Subject: [TR] [British-cars] Transmission re-build/service In-Reply-To: <65585975.2111735.1321246006618.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <4EC078C1.1060308@bradakis.com> <65585975.2111735.1321246006618.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <880D9993D25440C286F22FB51BCE8B5B@bboffice> Indeed, and I have invested a couple of tanks of gas into it since then! -----Original Message----- From: british-cars-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:british-cars-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of pethier at comcast.net Sent: Sunday, November 13, 2011 10:47 PM To: Mark J Bradakis Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net; british-cars at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [British-cars] Transmission re-build/service > One possibility is that the car is totally worthless, unfit for > driving. Bring it by my place and I'll give you $100 cash for it. Heck, it was worth more than that when I saw it in Afton Minnesota. :-) Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://www.mnautox.com _______________________________________________ British-cars at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/british-cars/wbeech at flash.net From david.brister at wanadoo.fr Mon Nov 14 02:07:15 2011 From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister) Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 10:07:15 +0100 Subject: [TR] Mystery Smoke In-Reply-To: <5ADA5641E3834D3496D550075C21874B@AlexPC> References: <5ADA5641E3834D3496D550075C21874B@AlexPC> Message-ID: <4EBB8532EC8442D89550116377EF42F2@dbristerPC> I had this problem with a !963 Rover 110. It turned out to be hydraulic fluif leaking into the Brake servo which in turn was sucking the fluif into the intake manifold. Very difficult to diagnose until you spot that the brake fliud master cylinder could do with a bit of topping up. Just my 2eurocents, David Brister, 10676 TR4A CTC 77785 0 >>After a 120 mile run trip drive today, my 59 TR3A developed a most >>confusing issue. A club member following behind was engulfed in a cloud of smoke when returning on this 60 mile run. This went on for about 20 miles where at times I could not see his Mini. -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 7 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 3377 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Professional version does not have this message From ambritts at bellsouth.net Mon Nov 14 04:37:38 2011 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 06:37:38 -0500 Subject: [TR] Mystery Smoke In-Reply-To: <1321264354.63676.YahooMailNeo@web29401.mail.ird.yahoo.com> References: <5ADA5641E3834D3496D550075C21874B@AlexPC> <1321264354.63676.YahooMailNeo@web29401.mail.ird.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Hi John, Will add it all to the list. I can try removing the cap and observing the results this week. A pulsing as well as bubbling would also be a sure sign of a bad head gasket. Hopefully, that is it, as I have a few head gaskets ready to go. I am still baffled on the heavy accumulation of water droplets on the carbs and intake. I think I need to take a picture of this so everyone can see what I am talking about. Thanks again, Alex ----- Original Message ----- From: John Macartney To: Alex Sent: Monday, November 14, 2011 4:52 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Mystery Smoke Alex Before I re-read your report of the incident, my thoughts centred on the crankcase breather pipe being covered in oil. I think you need to take a close look at that and find out why. I'm suspecting some sort of blockage that's building up crankcase pressure to such an extent that you might be having the beginnings of a head gasket leak. Under normal circumstances the gasket could well be sound but if there's a pressure build-up, a fine spray of water is coming from somewhere. I obviously hope its a gasket and not a cracked head. Have you tried running the engine with the radiator cap removed? If you do that and see there's an obvious 'pulsing' of water in the filler neck, that's a sure guide the head gasket is going to/already has failed. Report your findings to the list. This is an interesting one. Cheers, Jonmac http://standard-triumph-books.co.uk From: Alex To: *Triumphs List Sent: Monday, 14 November 2011, 2:00 Subject: [TR] Mystery Smoke After a 120 mile run trip drive today, my 59 TR3A developed a most confusing issue. A club member following behind was engulfed in a cloud of smoke when returning on this 60 mile run. This went on for about 20 miles where at times I could not see his Mini. On the first leg of the trip, the car started running rough but would get to speed easily. When parked (at a show) and opening the bonnet, I found the intake and carbs coated in water droplets. Completely coated. This has happened before but no ones has a clue as to the cause including the top LBC mechanics in the area. On the way home is when the major smoking issued occurred. I needed to keep the car at low RPM's to minimize the smoke screen. The smoke appeared to be white as in a steam cloud. What one would expect from a blown head gasket. After the trip, I spoke with my club member who was behind me for 60 miles. Even engulfed in smoke, his car had no visible oil coating of any kind....not on his car or windscreen. There was also no smell of smoke or smell of any kind. The oil in the sump is clear and clean. No visible water droplets or milky look. Water level in the radiator is about 1" from the cap. There is water in the neck of the radiator. The engine breather pipe is dripping oil which never occurred before. The valve cover cap also showing smoke exiting, which never occurred before. Carbs and intake covered in water droplets. Once before I pulled the air cleaners and the inside of the carbs had the same water droplets. That time the car stalled from the water entering the engine. These droplets are definitely from condensation. Oil level consumption in 120 miles of 60-70 mph driving about 1/8 of a quart of oil. Oil pressure strong at about 55 lbs. Water temp below 180. Car ran rough at idle as one would expect from a bad tank of gas.....water in the gas type of running. So before doing the usual tests next weekend...........any ideas or suggestions.. Thanks in advance. Alex Manzo 59 TR3A From auprichard at uprichard.net Mon Nov 14 04:55:23 2011 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 06:55:23 -0500 Subject: [TR] Transmission re-build/service In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <597A4E1B976149BD8AF2D238AF6363E7@DCH6RFC1> Bill: My clutch went out in June and I took the opportunity to replace all the synchros. I managed to get NOS - apparently some of the after markets ones aren't as good (he asks?). Surprisingly, 4th gear was the worst - crunched going from 3rd for a year or two. But given your clutch was the primary problem, you may want to check there is no run-out on the flywheel which contributed to the clutch failure. How about taking the opportunity to add an overdrive? Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of wbeech at flash.net Sent: Sunday, November 13, 2011 6:55 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; british-cars at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Transmission re-build/service I am putting an new clutch in this winter and while I don't have many complaints about my original/stock TR3 transmission I was just wondering if this would not be a good time to check for worn parts and replace as needed. I am experiencing no odd noises and about the only 'problem' I seem to have is downshifting from 4th to 3rd while at speed, such as when I want to pass another car. Is this a bad syncro? Would it be wise to go ahead and replace all the syncros just to be safe while it is apart? Thanks in advance for your valued advice. Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From ambritts at bellsouth.net Mon Nov 14 04:55:43 2011 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 06:55:43 -0500 Subject: [TR] Mystery Smoke In-Reply-To: <4EBB8532EC8442D89550116377EF42F2@dbristerPC> References: <5ADA5641E3834D3496D550075C21874B@AlexPC> <4EBB8532EC8442D89550116377EF42F2@dbristerPC> Message-ID: <8BE11065DDD346DD86AC2B4818E37315@AlexPC> Thanks David, Will add it to the list. This kind of stuff is great to be made aware of, as I would never have even considered that and hence would be beating the list to death searching for help. It's on the list. Thanks, Alex ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Brister" To: "Alex" ; Sent: Monday, November 14, 2011 4:07 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Mystery Smoke I had this problem with a !963 Rover 110. It turned out to be hydraulic fluif leaking into the Brake servo which in turn was sucking the fluif into the intake manifold. Very difficult to diagnose until you spot that the brake fliud master cylinder could do with a bit of topping up. Just my 2eurocents, David Brister, 10676 TR4A CTC 77785 0 >>After a 120 mile run trip drive today, my 59 TR3A developed a most >>confusing issue. A club member following behind was engulfed in a cloud of smoke when returning on this 60 mile run. This went on for about 20 miles where at times I could not see his Mini. -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 7 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 3377 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Professional version does not have this message From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Nov 14 05:20:37 2011 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 07:20:37 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Transmission re-build/service Message-ID: <3c258.5db33695.3bf26194@cs.com> In a message dated 11/13/2011 7:46:24 PM Central Standard Time, TR3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > >about the only 'problem' > >I seem to have > >is downshifting from 4th to 3rd while at speed, > > Could be a worn synchro, but it's unusual (in my limited experience) for > the > 4th gear synchro to wear out first. I would also check the force required > to move the shift ring on the hub (which is how much force gets applied to > the synchro ring during shifting), and for wear in the cone on the input > shaft (where the friction surface of the synchro ring rides). > Which is what happened to my TR3 transmission. But it happened so quickly I think there was something caught in the ring causing it to drag and overheat. Probably a silicone dingleberry as the PO used a lot of silicone gasket sealer on it. That is what precipitated the transmission rebuild and subsequently the frame-off restoration. I think I need counseling. But a 4th to 3rd downshift problem wouldn't be a fourth gear synchro but a third gear synchro failure. Dave From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Mon Nov 14 05:54:59 2011 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 04:54:59 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Transmission re-build/service Message-ID: <1321275299.12282.YahooMailNeo@web39411.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Wbeech wrote: So, ... BTW, you've seen my car, I wouldn't take a penny less that $125. -Bill ------------------ Hi Bill! I haven't seen your car (TR3, right?), But I think $125 is to low a price. So I'll pay you $150 only if you drive it across country (you live in Calif, Right?) to my house near Buffalo, NY. Just think, with that $150, you'll be able to take the bus ride home in about 5+ days, & you'll have a profit of my $.02 that I've put in. -Cosmo Kramer From tfansher at comcast.net Mon Nov 14 06:23:08 2011 From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 13:23:08 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Was : Transmission re-build/service Now Synchro's In-Reply-To: <3c258.5db33695.3bf26194@cs.com> Message-ID: <2087910839.2180624.1321276988967.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> There has been some talk of synchro's in the past being less than adequate from the big three. When Jere Dotten rebuiltB the last two we used heavier duty synchro's that we got from J.K. Jackson in Tallahassee.B They are noticably beefier and I hope that they stand up well. So far so good.B I'm not too happy with the others. I'm not bashing anyone, but just adding to the thread. Maybe Tony Drews has someB comments......Tony... Tom 60 TR3A 61 TR3A 62 TR4 73 Stag From wbeech at flash.net Mon Nov 14 08:12:32 2011 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 09:12:32 -0600 Subject: [TR] Transmission re-build/service In-Reply-To: <597A4E1B976149BD8AF2D238AF6363E7@DCH6RFC1> References: <597A4E1B976149BD8AF2D238AF6363E7@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: Andrew, Good thoughts, is there a source for NOS syncros? The flywheel was re-surfaced just 3,000 miles ago, but as a matter of course I will be checking it when she comes apart, there have been no indicators of any problems such as slow release or juttering on engagement. O/D? Had not really thought about it but it might be nice if I am going to drive to VTR this year. Of course, if this wild bidding war for the car continues I may just sell it and start another project! Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: Andrew Uprichard [mailto:auprichard at uprichard.net] Sent: Monday, November 14, 2011 5:55 AM To: wbeech at flash.net; triumphs at autox.team.net; british-cars at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [TR] Transmission re-build/service Bill: My clutch went out in June and I took the opportunity to replace all the synchros. I managed to get NOS - apparently some of the after markets ones aren't as good (he asks?). Surprisingly, 4th gear was the worst - crunched going from 3rd for a year or two. But given your clutch was the primary problem, you may want to check there is no run-out on the flywheel which contributed to the clutch failure. How about taking the opportunity to add an overdrive? Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of wbeech at flash.net Sent: Sunday, November 13, 2011 6:55 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; british-cars at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Transmission re-build/service I am putting an new clutch in this winter and while I don't have many complaints about my original/stock TR3 transmission I was just wondering if this would not be a good time to check for worn parts and replace as needed. I am experiencing no odd noises and about the only 'problem' I seem to have is downshifting from 4th to 3rd while at speed, such as when I want to pass another car. Is this a bad syncro? Would it be wise to go ahead and replace all the syncros just to be safe while it is apart? Thanks in advance for your valued advice. Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From allegrorover at mac.com Mon Nov 14 08:30:28 2011 From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio) Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 10:30:28 -0500 Subject: [TR] test Message-ID: <2E1E2DFF-9B79-458A-901A-1119B897DFF9@mac.com> test From tfansher at comcast.net Mon Nov 14 08:39:20 2011 From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 15:39:20 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Transmission re-build/service In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <154825069.2191160.1321285160471.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> I vote for switching to overdrive, having drivenB 150 miles yesterday in great weather on Central Florida back roads with three other Triumphs for lunch then, Interstate 4 back home at 70 to 75mph in overdrive.B Also, since the tranny is out Joe Alexander would recommend thatB you might consider lightening the flywheel.B There's a fine line between a "too light one" that won't idle and do well in "stop and go" traffic and the 22# or so stock one. I have lightened both the one's on the 3's and I agree that it makes the cars much quicker with no down side.B I even think the flywheels fit in one of the "if it fits it's one price" USPS boxes. (Maybe without the ring gear).B I'm thinking the aluminum ones the racers use are too light, but check with Joe. Tom From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Nov 14 10:06:10 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 09:06:10 -0800 Subject: [TR] Transmission re-build/service In-Reply-To: <154825069.2191160.1321285160471.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <154825069.2191160.1321285160471.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <003d01cca2ef$b5521280$0501a8c0@randall> > I'm > thinking the aluminum ones the racers use are too light, but > check with Joe. I think Joe's main objection is that they (the alloy flywheels) are relatively fragile and prone to fail under racing conditions. At any rate, I've been running one on the street for several years now, and I really like it. I moved it from the wrecked 3A to the 'new' TR3 even though I've got one of Joe's billet steel ones on the shelf. One thing worth noting, both the billet steel flywheels that Joe sells, and the alloy Fidanza wheel only come configured for the later starter. If you have an early (pre-TS50000) gearbox, you'll need one of the "high tech" starters, as the later Lucas starter won't fit into the early bellhousing/gearbox. They also come drilled for the lighter TR4A clutch. If you want to keep the heavier TR3 clutch, you'll need to get the flywheel drilled and tapped to match. If you do go with the 4A clutch (as I did), be sure to trim off the nose of the gearbox as otherwise the clutch fingers will dig into it when you press the pedal. The lighter flywheel did take a bit of getting used to, especially with the rather tired engine that was in the TR3A. But for whatever reason, the engine in the TR3 seems to have more grunt at very low rpm and so the lightweight flywheel is less of a problem. Actually, combined with the 4.10 gears (that were on the car when I got it), my biggest problem was a tendency to spin the rear tires on takeoff -- Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Nov 14 10:08:51 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 09:08:51 -0800 Subject: [TR] Transmission re-build/service In-Reply-To: References: <597A4E1B976149BD8AF2D238AF6363E7@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: <003e01cca2f0$154b2a00$0501a8c0@randall> The flywheel was > re-surfaced just 3,000 miles ago, but as a matter of course I will be > checking it when she comes apart, Hopefully this is obvious, but JIC : You need to check for runout with the flywheel actually installed on the crank. The problem may not be the clutch surface, but the joint between the flywheel & crankshaft. -- Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Nov 14 10:13:07 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 09:13:07 -0800 Subject: [TR] Was : Transmission re-build/service Now Synchro's In-Reply-To: <2087910839.2180624.1321276988967.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <3c258.5db33695.3bf26194@cs.com> <2087910839.2180624.1321276988967.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <003f01cca2f0$ad97a8b0$0501a8c0@randall> > There has been some talk of synchro's in the past being less > than adequate > from the big three. I believe there was a large run of them made (and shared by the big three) that were "less than adequate". Many theories as to what was wrong with them, but AFAIK none of them were actually proven to be correct. However, I believe the stock of those has been exhausted, at least at Moss & TRF. The last ones I got from TRF were the heavier design like the originals, and worked fine for me. YMMV -- Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Nov 14 10:14:47 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 09:14:47 -0800 Subject: [TR] Transmission re-build/service In-Reply-To: <3c258.5db33695.3bf26194@cs.com> References: <3c258.5db33695.3bf26194@cs.com> Message-ID: <004001cca2f0$e94cb170$0501a8c0@randall> > But a 4th to 3rd downshift problem wouldn't be a fourth gear > synchro but a > third gear synchro failure. OOps! Good point; my bad. -- Randall From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Mon Nov 14 10:57:56 2011 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 12:57:56 -0500 Subject: [TR] Was : Transmission re-build/service Now Synchro's References: <3c258.5db33695.3bf26194@cs.com><2087910839.2180624.1321276988967.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <003f01cca2f0$ad97a8b0$0501a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <0B4D23EA094149F0ADE709302D17E73A@userb38463fba5> A possible reason for a 4th gear syncro being worn is resting ones hand on the gear lever while cruising in 4th gear. It's a convenient place to rest your hand. The later TR 4 thru TR 6 levers are especially convenient since they have a slight bend rearward. JVV ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" Cc: Sent: Monday, November 14, 2011 12:13 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Was : Transmission re-build/service Now Synchro's >> There has been some talk of synchro's in the past being less >> than adequate >> from the big three. From wbeech at flash.net Mon Nov 14 12:15:23 2011 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 13:15:23 -0600 Subject: [TR] Was : Transmission re-build/service Now Synchro's In-Reply-To: <0B4D23EA094149F0ADE709302D17E73A@userb38463fba5> References: <3c258.5db33695.3bf26194@cs.com><2087910839.2180624.1321276988967.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net><003f01cca2f0$ad97a8b0$0501a8c0@randall> <0B4D23EA094149F0ADE709302D17E73A@userb38463fba5> Message-ID: Jerry, Always a good reminder, you are very right, I learned not to do that back in high school when all the shifters were on the column. (3or4-on-the-tree as they were known) Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jerry Van Vlack Sent: Monday, November 14, 2011 11:58 AM To: Randall Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Was : Transmission re-build/service Now Synchro's A possible reason for a 4th gear syncro being worn is resting ones hand on the gear lever while cruising in 4th gear. It's a convenient place to rest your hand. The later TR 4 thru TR 6 levers are especially convenient since they have a slight bend rearward. JVV ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" Cc: Sent: Monday, November 14, 2011 12:13 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Was : Transmission re-build/service Now Synchro's >> There has been some talk of synchro's in the past being less than >> adequate from the big three. triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From fishplate at charter.net Mon Nov 14 14:53:07 2011 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff) Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 16:53:07 -0500 Subject: [TR] Was : Transmission re-build/service Now Synchro's In-Reply-To: <0B4D23EA094149F0ADE709302D17E73A@userb38463fba5> References: <3c258.5db33695.3bf26194@cs.com><2087910839.2180624.1321276988967.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <003f01cca2f0$ad97a8b0$0501a8c0@randall> <0B4D23EA094149F0ADE709302D17E73A@userb38463fba5> Message-ID: <4EC18DC3.80500@charter.net> On 11/14/2011 12:57 PM, Jerry Van Vlack wrote: > A possible reason for a 4th gear syncro being worn is resting ones > hand on the gear lever while cruising in 4th gear. It's a convenient > place to rest your hand. The later TR 4 thru TR 6 levers are > especially convenient since they have a slight bend rearward. I'm going to be a contrarian...and possibly expose my lack of knowledge here, but: When running in 4th gear, the synchro and gear are running at the same speed, held in place by the synchro hub. The wear that occurs from riding the lever should be in the shift fork and hub, not in the synchro ring itself. But I'm open to correction... Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Nov 14 15:56:19 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 14:56:19 -0800 Subject: [TR] Was : Transmission re-build/service Now Synchro's In-Reply-To: <4EC18DC3.80500@charter.net> References: <3c258.5db33695.3bf26194@cs.com><2087910839.2180624.1321276988967.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <003f01cca2f0$ad97a8b0$0501a8c0@randall> <0B4D23EA094149F0ADE709302D17E73A@userb38463fba5> <4EC18DC3.80500@charter.net> Message-ID: <028401cca320$a01abe90$e0503bb0$@rr.com> > The wear that > occurs from riding the lever should be in the shift fork and hub, not > in the synchro ring itself. I'm not even convinced that is a problem with the TR box, as there is a travel limit on the shift rail that I believe should hit before the hub reaches the end of its travel. But I could be mistaken. I'll have to check, next time I have one apart. -- Randall From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Nov 14 16:12:11 2011 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 18:12:11 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Was : Transmission re-build/service Now Synchro's Message-ID: <13999.69965d4e.3bf2fa4b@cs.com> In a message dated 11/14/2011 12:13:10 PM Central Standard Time, jerryvv at roadrunner.com writes: > A possible reason for a 4th gear syncro being worn is resting ones hand > on > the gear lever while cruising in 4th gear. It's a convenient place to rest > > your hand. The later TR 4 thru TR 6 levers are especially convenient since > > they have a slight bend rearward. > But in fourth gear there is no motion between the gear and hub that would wear out the fourth gear synchro. That could make for premature wear in the second and third gear synchro but not the fourth. Dave From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Mon Nov 14 17:04:13 2011 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 17:04:13 -0700 Subject: [TR] Mystery Smoke In-Reply-To: <5ADA5641E3834D3496D550075C21874B@AlexPC> References: <5ADA5641E3834D3496D550075C21874B@AlexPC> Message-ID: On Sun, Nov 13, 2011 at 7:00 PM, Alex wrote: > ...Water level in the radiator is about 1" from the cap. There is water in > the neck of the radiator.... > Are you using coolant or straight water? If coolant then there would be a distinctive smell and feel, but if straight water your 'smoke' could be quite clean (as you describe). Geo From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Mon Nov 14 17:35:19 2011 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 19:35:19 -0500 Subject: [TR] Was : Transmission re-build/service Now Synchro's References: <13999.69965d4e.3bf2fa4b@cs.com> Message-ID: Never considered that and you are correct, Thanks for making that point. JVV ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, November 14, 2011 6:12 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Was : Transmission re-build/service Now Synchro's > In a message dated 11/14/2011 12:13:10 PM Central Standard Time, > jerryvv at roadrunner.com writes: >> A possible reason for a 4th gear syncro being worn is resting ones hand >> on >> the gear lever while cruising in 4th gear. It's a convenient place to >> rest >> >> your hand. The later TR 4 thru TR 6 levers are especially convenient >> since >> >> they have a slight bend rearward. >> > > But in fourth gear there is no motion between the gear and hub that would > wear out the fourth gear synchro. That could make for premature wear in > the > second and third gear synchro but not the fourth. > > Dave From mtgaines at mail.presby.edu Mon Nov 14 17:33:51 2011 From: mtgaines at mail.presby.edu (Tim Gaines) Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 19:33:51 -0500 Subject: [TR] rollbar question Message-ID: I've been thinking of buying two roll bars, one for my son's Miata (in NC) and one for my TR6 (in SC). I looked at the Boss Frog site and saw some nice looking bars, but the installation called only for bolting to the floor and not to the frame. I always thought a frame mount was necessary for real safety, but the site claims that they meet SCCA specs. I don't plan to do any racing, but my son does like to go to a Miata meet each year and drive the Tail of the Dragon in the mountains of NC. It worries me that he has no roll bar, so I want to get him one that really offers some protection. What can you tell me? Any recommendations for a manufacturer and/or an installer in NC or SC. Sorry if this has been discussed recently. I haven't been able to stay up with all my list mail for awhile. Thanks, Tim 1974 TR6 1980 Spitfire From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Mon Nov 14 19:21:50 2011 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 21:21:50 -0500 Subject: [TR] Did 1969 tr6 come with cheesy hubcaps? Message-ID: There are 4 hubcaps in the trunk. It looks like they riveted tr3 hubcaps to cheesy mag wheel covers. The rims also have overly long wheel cover studs. A friend thinks they could be tr250 rims and covers and postulates that they may have some been on the early six. Any value to these? From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Mon Nov 14 20:00:02 2011 From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com) Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 22:00:02 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Did 1969 tr6 come with cheesy hubcaps? Message-ID: <289fe.442d6507.3bf32fb1@aol.com> The early TR6 did indeed come with mag-style wheel covers. In fact, they were a trademark of many of the higher performance vehicles that Triumph produced in the '69-78 era. My dad's '70 Vitesse had them (but 13"), as did his '70 2.5PI saloon and his later Stag. They were on the TR5 (TR250), the GT6 Mk.2 (at least in UK and Euro markets). At the time, they were definitely not considered cheesy, and I still look at them with an element of nostalgic admiration. Something tells me they are worth nothing, but nevertheless liked by many, at least those Triumph enthusiasts who remember them when they were new. I am thrown off by your reference to long wheel studs, though. The original early wheel covers were not held on by studs; they just clipped on like any other wheel cover. Tim There are 4 hubcaps in the trunk. It looks like they riveted tr3 hubcaps to cheesy mag wheel covers. The rims also have overly long wheel cover studs. A friend thinks they could be tr250 rims and covers and postulates that they may have some been on the early six. Any value to these? triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/kingscreektrees at aol.com From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com Mon Nov 14 20:17:06 2011 From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad) Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 19:17:06 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Did 1969 tr6 come with cheesy hubcaps? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1321327026.94299.YahooMailNeo@web120525.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Chris- Yes. Those were original equimpment of 1969 TR6's . They were (and still are IMHO) ugly and often flew off the car and caused many warranty claims. If you don't like them, put them on Evilbay and somebody will buy them. Chad in Tulsa From: Chris Simo To: list Triumph Sent: Monday, November 14, 2011 8:21 PM Subject: [TR] Did 1969 tr6 come with cheesy hubcaps? There are 4 hubcaps in the trunk. It looks like they riveted tr3 hubcaps to cheesy mag wheel covers. The rims also have overly long wheel cover studs. A friend thinks they could be tr250 rims and covers and postulates that they may have some been on the early six. Any value to these? triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Nov 14 20:33:48 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 19:33:48 -0800 Subject: [TR] Did 1969 tr6 come with cheesy hubcaps? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <00fd01cca347$63465160$0501a8c0@randall> The TR250 and early TR6 did come with cheesy hub caps and extended mounting studs; but they didn't look at all like TR3 hubcaps. Instead they had 5 fake lug nuts and 5 chrome "spokes" on a black background, to give the impression of a 5-lug alloy wheel. #7 here: http://fwd4.me/0gnM Maybe someone added TR3 hubcaps? Kind of rare and NLA for a long time I believe, so the caps might be worth something if they are in good condition (or easily restored). -- Randall From pethier at comcast.net Mon Nov 14 20:38:42 2011 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2011 03:38:42 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] rollbar question In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <821751433.2166322.1321328322442.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> There is no frame in a Miata. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://www.mnautox.com ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Tim Gaines" > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Monday, November 14, 2011 6:33:51 PM > Subject: [TR] rollbar question > I've been thinking of buying two roll bars, one for my > son's Miata (in NC) and one for my TR6 (in SC). I looked > at the Boss Frog site and saw some nice looking bars, but > the installation called only for bolting to the floor and > not to the frame. I always thought a frame mount was > necessary for real safety, but the site claims that they > meet SCCA specs. I don't plan to do any racing, but my > son does like to go to a Miata meet each year and drive > the Tail of the Dragon in the mountains of NC. It worries > me that he has no roll bar, so I want to get him one that > really offers some protection. What can you tell me? Any > recommendations for a manufacturer and/or an installer in > NC or SC. > > Sorry if this has been discussed recently. I haven't been > able to stay up with all my list mail for awhile. > > Thanks, > Tim > 1974 TR6 > 1980 Spitfire From pethier at comcast.net Mon Nov 14 20:51:47 2011 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2011 03:51:47 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Fwd: TR4 in ice race in 1974 In-Reply-To: <952555286.1983276.1320954364320.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1362228812.2166958.1321329107144.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> I got a bounce notice on this from the list. Did it get distributed the first time? Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://www.mnautox.com ----- Forwarded Message ----- > From: pethier at comcast.net > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Cc: pethier at comcast.net > Sent: Thursday, November 10, 2011 1:46:04 PM > Subject: TR4 in ice race in 1974 > http://www.comicozzie.com/gallery2/v/1973/IR73/miscIIRA/75IIRA-14_001.jpg.html > > "1974 IIRA season : Dave Chizek's Datsun 240Z leads Fred Zachau's > Triumph TR-4." > > Fred Zachau drove this TR4 for many years. On and off the track, he > was a perfect gentleman. I have no idea where he is now. Fred had the > center of the wheelbase marked on the TR4, and before qualifying, his > crew would put the car on two stands and then add or subtract sandbags > from the trunk for perfect 50/50 weight distribution. > > Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA > 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue > 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch > 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl > 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red > pethier [at] comcast [dot] net > http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier > http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk > http://www.mnautox.com From allegrorover at mac.com Mon Nov 14 21:33:19 2011 From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio) Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 23:33:19 -0500 Subject: [TR] ammeter shunt Message-ID: <384630C5-DDF0-4D64-B5D7-20B4A76A7966@mac.com> List, I've seen quite a bit of talk about the shunt that is required for an alternator conversion. I have Dan Masters wiring harness and my ammeter doesn't move, I really didn't think much of it figuring the alternator was doing it's job, but after reading some of the comments about it maybe I need to get on to this. Can or would someone please give me a laymans explanation on what I need to do or install to do this shunt. Photos would be good.......parts list??????? I apologize in advance for not being up to speed on some of the technical electrical terms but I think I should try this so I can get at least some idea what's going on with my charging system. Thanks in advance Tony Cascio 58 TR3A TS27093L From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk Tue Nov 15 14:26:25 2011 From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2011 21:26:25 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] Did 1969 tr6 come with cheesy hubcaps? In-Reply-To: <00fd01cca347$63465160$0501a8c0@randall> References: <00fd01cca347$63465160$0501a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <1321392385.74015.YahooMailNeo@web29402.mail.ird.yahoo.com> What no-one has mentioned on this issue that apart from looking awful and totally unconvincing, they always rattled like hell. I've still got ten covers in good condition for a 2.5PI if anyone wants to make me an offer I can't refuse? Jonmac http://standard-triumph-books.co.uk/ >________________________________ >From: Randall >To: 'list Triumph' >Sent: Tuesday, 15 November 2011, 3:33 >Subject: Re: [TR] Did 1969 tr6 come with cheesy hubcaps? > >The TR250 and early TR6 did come with cheesy hub caps and extended mounting >studs; but they didn't look at all like TR3 hubcaps. Instead they had 5 >fake lug nuts and 5 chrome "spokes" on a black background, to give the >impression of a 5-lug alloy wheel. #7 here: >http://fwd4.me/0gnM > >Maybe someone added TR3 hubcaps? > >Kind of rare and NLA for a long time I believe, so the caps might be worth >something if they are in good condition (or easily restored). > >-- Randall > > >triumphs at autox.team.net > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Nov 15 14:52:27 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2011 13:52:27 -0800 Subject: [TR] ammeter shunt In-Reply-To: <384630C5-DDF0-4D64-B5D7-20B4A76A7966@mac.com> References: <384630C5-DDF0-4D64-B5D7-20B4A76A7966@mac.com> Message-ID: <001b01cca3e0$deff3210$9cfd9630$@rr.com> > I have Dan Masters wiring harness and my ammeter doesn't move, I really > didn't think much of it figuring the alternator was doing its job, If the alternator and ammeter are working properly, then you should see a strong charge indication immediately after starting the engine. How strong depends a bit on your alternator and installation, but I would generally get a full 60 amps from my 60 amp alternator as it replaced the power drawn by the starter. The charge will start to taper off almost immediately, but you should see some charge for at least a few minutes. > Can or would someone please give me a laymans explanation on what I > need to do or install to do this shunt. The first step is to have the ammeter be the only route between the alternator output and the battery. Look in Dan's instructions for the "60 amp ammeter" option and adjust your wiring to match that. A simple test is to turn on the headlights with the engine off, and check that the ammeter reads roughly 15 amps discharge. Now you can add the shunt to the ammeter, so that it reads roughly 60 amps full scale instead of 30 amps. Assuming you have an original TR3 ammeter; cut a 3.5" length of 16 AWG wire and strip both ends for about 1/4". Form it into a loop, and insert each end into one of the ammeter terminals along with the wire from the harness. Here's a photo of mine (taken as I was stripping the car after the wreck) : http://tinyurl.com/ybvtl48 Turn on the headlights again, and verify that the ammeter now reads around 7-8 amps, roughly half of what it did in the test before. Mount it back in the dash, you're done. -- Randall From dogzbody1 at yahoo.com Tue Nov 15 17:27:39 2011 From: dogzbody1 at yahoo.com (Steve Smith) Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2011 16:27:39 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Did 1969 tr6 come with cheesy hubcaps? In-Reply-To: <1321392385.74015.YahooMailNeo@web29402.mail.ird.yahoo.com> References: <00fd01cca347$63465160$0501a8c0@randall> <1321392385.74015.YahooMailNeo@web29402.mail.ird.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1321403259.43316.YahooMailNeo@web114709.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Funnily enough, it wasn't that long ago that Classic And Sportscar magazine counted the Rostyle hubcaps for the TR5 (UK 250) and 6 amongst their favorites. They are very period as pointed out and meant to look like teh Magnum 500s that were so popular in the late 60s. I have a set on my '69 for shows, happy to have spares - contact me off lists if you are looking to sell. Steve ________________________________ From: John Macartney To: Randall ; 'list Triumph' Sent: Tuesday, November 15, 2011 3:26 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Did 1969 tr6 come with cheesy hubcaps? What no-one has mentioned on this issue that apart from looking awful and totally unconvincing, they always rattled like hell. I've still got ten covers in good condition for a 2.5PI if anyone wants to make me an offer I can't refuse? Jonmac http://standard-triumph-books.co.uk/ >________________________________ >From: Randall >To: 'list Triumph' >Sent: Tuesday, 15 November 2011, 3:33 >Subject: Re: [TR] Did 1969 tr6 come with cheesy hubcaps? > >The TR250 and early TR6 did come with cheesy hub caps and extended mounting >studs; but they didn't look at all like TR3 hubcaps. Instead they had 5 >fake lug nuts and 5 chrome "spokes" on a black background, to give the >impression of a 5-lug alloy wheel. #7 here: >http://fwd4.me/0gnM > >Maybe someone added TR3 hubcaps? > >Kind of rare and NLA for a long time I believe, so the caps might be worth >something if they are in good condition (or easily restored). > >-- Randall > > >triumphs at autox.team.net > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dogzbody1 at yahoo.com From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Tue Nov 15 18:04:05 2011 From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com) Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2011 20:04:05 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Did 1969 tr6 come with cheesy hubcaps? Message-ID: <355f9.48fedd37.3bf46604@aol.com> Steve's comment is really good. Having lived on both sides of the pond, I'd say those trims are generally rated as highly undesirable in North America, but highly prized in the UK. They are not only highly prized for originality, but because they were genuinely well liked and looked very period. I must admit that I do like them myself, but probably for the nostalgia factor as every UK spec '69-'70 Vitesse, GT6, TR6, 2.5PI and Stag had them. UK spec Stags had them right up to the end ('77 production), as did 2.5PI's, although by then they were painting the black parts a sort of dull silver, which looked a bit naff. Tim Funnily enough, it wasn't that long ago that Classic And Sportscar magazine counted the Rostyle hubcaps for the TR5 (UK 250) and 6 amongst their favorites. They are very period as pointed out and meant to look like teh Magnum 500s that were so popular in the late 60s. I have a set on my '69 for shows, happy to have spares - contact me off lists if you are looking to sell. Steve ________________________________ From: John Macartney To: Randall ; 'list Triumph' Sent: Tuesday, November 15, 2011 3:26 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Did 1969 tr6 come with cheesy hubcaps? What no-one has mentioned on this issue that apart from looking awful and totally unconvincing, they always rattled like hell. I've still got ten covers in good condition for a 2.5PI if anyone wants to make me an offer I can't refuse? Jonmac http://standard-triumph-books.co.uk/ >________________________________ >From: Randall >To: 'list Triumph' >Sent: Tuesday, 15 November 2011, 3:33 >Subject: Re: [TR] Did 1969 tr6 come with cheesy hubcaps? > >The TR250 and early TR6 did come with cheesy hub caps and extended mounting >studs; but they didn't look at all like TR3 hubcaps. Instead they had 5 >fake lug nuts and 5 chrome "spokes" on a black background, to give the >impression of a 5-lug alloy wheel. #7 here: >http://fwd4.me/0gnM > >Maybe someone added TR3 hubcaps? > >Kind of rare and NLA for a long time I believe, so the caps might be worth >something if they are in good condition (or easily restored). > >-- Randall > > >triumphs at autox.team.net > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dogzbody1 at yahoo.com triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/kingscreektrees at aol.com From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Tue Nov 15 18:28:24 2011 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2011 18:28:24 -0700 Subject: [TR] Did 1969 tr6 come with cheesy hubcaps? In-Reply-To: <355f9.48fedd37.3bf46604@aol.com> References: <355f9.48fedd37.3bf46604@aol.com> Message-ID: On Tue, Nov 15, 2011 at 6:04 PM, wrote: > Steve's comment is really good. Having lived on both sides of the pond, I'd > say those trims are generally rated as highly undesirable in North > America, but highly prized in the UK... > Didn't a set of these (NOS) recently sell on ebay for several thousand dollars (or was it pounds)? Geo From dogzbody1 at yahoo.com Tue Nov 15 19:12:05 2011 From: dogzbody1 at yahoo.com (Steve Smith) Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2011 18:12:05 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Did 1969 tr6 come with cheesy hubcaps? In-Reply-To: References: <355f9.48fedd37.3bf46604@aol.com> Message-ID: <1321409525.8957.YahooMailNeo@web114713.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> With the general consensus being they are ugly and rattly I wouldn't be willing to offer quite so much. Now, let's tell everyone how ugly and undesirable hardtops and overdrives are.... Steve PS Geo, I've lived on both sides of teh pond as wells, perhaps that is required to appreciate Rostyle wheel covers? ________________________________ From: Geo Hahn To: Triumphs Sent: Tuesday, November 15, 2011 7:28 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Did 1969 tr6 come with cheesy hubcaps? On Tue, Nov 15, 2011 at 6:04 PM, wrote: > Steve's comment is really good. Having lived on both sides of the pond, I'd > say those trims are generally rated as highly undesirable in North > America, but highly prized in the UK... > Didn't a set of these (NOS) recently sell on ebay for several thousand dollars (or was it pounds)? Geo triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dogzbody1 at yahoo.com From zoboherald at aol.com Tue Nov 15 20:57:43 2011 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace) Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2011 22:57:43 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Did 1969 tr6 come with cheesy hubcaps? In-Reply-To: References: <355f9.48fedd37.3bf46604@aol.com> Message-ID: <8CE722B071920CF-18A4-68EC3@webmail-d043.sysops.aol.com> Correct. I can't find the listing at the moment, but ISTR it worked out to somewhere in the $2k range.... --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us -----Original Message----- From: Geo Hahn To: Triumphs Sent: Tue, Nov 15, 2011 8:47 pm Subject: Re: [TR] Did 1969 tr6 come with cheesy hubcaps? On Tue, Nov 15, 2011 at 6:04 PM, wrote: > Steve's comment is really good. Having lived on both sides of the pond, I'd > say those trims are generally rated as highly undesirable in North > America, but highly prized in the UK... > Didn't a set of these (NOS) recently sell on ebay for several thousand dollars (or was it pounds)? Geo triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/zoboherald at aol.com From mlang99 at comcast.net Tue Nov 15 21:05:32 2011 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2011 20:05:32 -0800 Subject: [TR] Did 1969 tr6 come with cheesy hubcaps? In-Reply-To: <00fd01cca347$63465160$0501a8c0@randall> References: <00fd01cca347$63465160$0501a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <4EC3368C.3040307@comcast.net> I have a set of 5.5" wide wheels on my TR3 that I was told came off of a TR250. I always wondered what the purpose was for the extra long hub cap mounting studs. My TR3 hub caps snap right on but look a bit odd spaced away from the wheels. The gap makes them easy to remove - just wrap my fingers around the back edge and pull. Mike TS11544L On 11/14/2011 7:33 PM, Randall wrote: > The TR250 and early TR6 did come with cheesy hub caps and extended mounting > studs; but they didn't look at all like TR3 hubcaps. Instead they had 5 > fake lug nuts and 5 chrome "spokes" on a black background, to give the > impression of a 5-lug alloy wheel. #7 here: > http://fwd4.me/0gnM > > Maybe someone added TR3 hubcaps? > > Kind of rare and NLA for a long time I believe, so the caps might be worth > something if they are in good condition (or easily restored). > > -- Randall > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mlang99 at comcast.net From pfullam at nycap.rr.com Tue Nov 15 22:35:43 2011 From: pfullam at nycap.rr.com (Peter) Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2011 00:35:43 -0500 Subject: [TR] Did 1969 tr6 come with cheesy hubcaps? In-Reply-To: <4EC3368C.3040307@comcast.net> References: <00fd01cca347$63465160$0501a8c0@randall> <4EC3368C.3040307@comcast.net> Message-ID: <001501cca421$95810b40$c08321c0$@rr.com> Hi Mike, I got a set of early TR6 wheels for my TR4 in 1969. They have the extended studs, which fit the TR3/TR4 hub caps. I believe the extended studs were for the Rostyle wheel covers. I could be wrong, but I don't believe these wheels were standard on the TR250. I later bought 2 more TR6 wheels to mount snow tires on, and they don't have any studs. They also have 15 air holes, where the earlier wheels have 12 holes in 3 groups of four. Pete Fullam CT19207L -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Lang Sent: Tuesday, November 15, 2011 11:06 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Did 1969 tr6 come with cheesy hubcaps? I have a set of 5.5" wide wheels on my TR3 that I was told came off of a TR250. I always wondered what the purpose was for the extra long hub cap mounting studs. My TR3 hub caps snap right on but look a bit odd spaced away from the wheels. The gap makes them easy to remove - just wrap my fingers around the back edge and pull. Mike TS11544L On 11/14/2011 7:33 PM, Randall wrote: > The TR250 and early TR6 did come with cheesy hub caps and extended mounting > studs; but they didn't look at all like TR3 hubcaps. Instead they had 5 > fake lug nuts and 5 chrome "spokes" on a black background, to give the > impression of a 5-lug alloy wheel. #7 here: > http://fwd4.me/0gnM > > Maybe someone added TR3 hubcaps? > > Kind of rare and NLA for a long time I believe, so the caps might be worth > something if they are in good condition (or easily restored). > > -- Randall > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mlang99 at comcast.net triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pfullam at nycap.rr.com From thenicholls at verizon.net Wed Nov 16 08:08:16 2011 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2011 09:08:16 -0600 (CST) Subject: [TR] 1972 Triumph TR6 Temp - UPDATE Message-ID: <664825801.9298303.1321456096177.JavaMail.root@vznit170070> List, Just an update, I got a temp gauge from a friend of mine. Went out and ran 72 TR6 until temp moved and oil pressure came down. Tested temp with the gauge along the engine on the side where the exhaust is. I got readings of 187-192 degrees which seems right to me. So, now I am down to either the sending unit is bad, or just the gauge is reading low. I heard from a lister who lives near me that he has the same situation and is just not worrying about it. My issue is that I ordered a new sending unit from TRF GTR110 4/2009 and attempted to install it, it did not fit. Since it is the only one listed by the big three, I could not figure out why it would be wrong, so I pulled the existing one, cleaned it up, and put it back in. I know it is not the voltage stabilizer because I put gas in it over the weekend and it is reading correctly. At this point, I am going to get the TRF sending unit and stop by a local British car shop for some free advice. Will let you know what happens. Craig 1972 TR6 Nov 7, 2011 01:25:23 PM, thenicholls at verizon.net wrote: Replaced thermostat over the weekend, no change. Also suggested was the voltage stbilizer (the one behind the speedo). I was advised it was connected to the fuel and thermo gauge. The fuel gauge is fine, and the thermo does work, once warm, it comes out of the clear bos on the left of the gauge and is in the painted while part at the lowest level. Prior, it always ran in the 6 PM range right in the middle. Since the gauge has no temperature numbers, even if I take the temperature reading in the radiator, I have no idea what it should be. What is the "normal" range for it to run? Also was suggested to replace the sensor. I tried last year to order one from TRF and replace it, but the new one did not fit, so I cleaned up the old one and put it back. All the big 3 only list one for my car, so I am not sure why it would not fit and I never had time to find out. At least if I got a reading on the temp from the radiator I would at least know I am not running cold (which I don't really think is possible). Any other ideas appreciated. Craig 1972 Triumph TR6 Nov 7, 2011 12:05:25 PM, yellowtr at adelphia.net wrote: Craig, If you have a good thermometer you should run the engine until you think it should be hot and then carefully open the rad cap and stick in the probe. Should be about what your thermostat is rated or a bit higher. If the temperature is what you think it should be, I would replace the sensor next. Bob On 11/07/2011 09:23 AM, thenicholls at verizon.net wrote: > Replaced thermostat yesterday, no change in temp gauge reading. Where should I head to next? > > Craig > 1972 Triumph TR6 > > > Oct 29, 2011 12:47:51 AM, thenicholls at verizon.net wrote: > > Don't know, I could replace it. Any way to test that? I did replace it 4/1/2006, that could be it. > > Thanks, > > Craig > > > Oct 28, 2011 11:52:24 PM, fishplate at charter.net wrote: > > On 10/28/2011 10:16 PM, thenicholls at verizon.net wrote: >> Is it possible for an engine to run too cold? I had never thought this was a concern. > ` > Yes, but it's not likely to be the plugs. Is your thermostat stuck open? triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net From carlsereda at aol.com Wed Nov 16 10:01:43 2011 From: carlsereda at aol.com (carlsereda) Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2011 09:01:43 -0800 Subject: [TR] Rostyle In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <2C0B60C2.9704.4230.81F8.5C422F3A762B@aol.com> I have an older Triumph book with photo of a TR5... black car, black surrey top, black and chrome rostyle hub caps.. best looking TR5 I've ever seen! Regards, Carl '63 TR4 since '74 On Nov 16, 2011, at 7:08:46 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > Steve's comment is really good. Having lived on both sides of the > pond, I'd > say those trims are generally rated as highly undesirable in North > America, but highly prized in the UK... From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Nov 16 10:03:21 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2011 09:03:21 -0800 Subject: [TR] 1972 Triumph TR6 Temp - UPDATE In-Reply-To: <664825801.9298303.1321456096177.JavaMail.root@vznit170070> References: <664825801.9298303.1321456096177.JavaMail.root@vznit170070> Message-ID: <005701cca481$a5ee8330$f1cb8990$@rr.com> FWIW, Craig, the temperature gauge movement is basically identical to the voltmeter (except for the resistance of the internal heater). When I started investigating the voltmeter on my Stag, I discovered that the internal gauge calibration adjustment was so loose that I could move it just by rapping the gauge on the bench. And with the gauge reading near the high end of the scale, there is a small but definite pressure on the adjustment, in the direction that would make the gauge read lower. There is a fiber washer that helps provide the friction to hold the adjustment in place, so it's possible that the washer shrank over time and the adjustment was not that loose when the gauge was new. My point being that it is possible your gauge has simply shifted calibration slightly. -- Randall From anabil007 at comcast.net Wed Nov 16 10:03:41 2011 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh) Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2011 09:03:41 -0800 Subject: [TR] 1972 Triumph TR6 Temp - UPDATE In-Reply-To: <664825801.9298303.1321456096177.JavaMail.root@vznit170070> References: <664825801.9298303.1321456096177.JavaMail.root@vznit170070> Message-ID: I have had very good luck with NOS type instruments from these guys" http://www.gaugeguys.com/Smiths/classic.htm I got an Oil Pressure / Temperature combination for my TR3 ... the quality was outstanding. I would think the same might work for you. I also invested $40.00 for a laser temperature reader (you just point a pull the trigger and it tells you the temperature at any given point) Also kind of neat for measuring temps on lots of stuff, including my Cat ... On Nov 16, 2011, at 7:08 AM, thenicholls at verizon.net wrote: > List, > > Just an update, I got a temp gauge from a friend of mine. Went out and ran 72 TR6 until temp moved and oil pressure came down. > > Tested temp with the gauge along the engine on the side where the exhaust is. I got readings of 187-192 degrees which seems right to me. > > So, now I am down to either the sending unit is bad, or just the gauge is reading low. I heard from a lister who lives near me that he has the same situation and is just not worrying about it. > > My issue is that I ordered a new sending unit from TRF GTR110 4/2009 and attempted to install it, it did not fit. Since it is the only one listed by the big three, I could not figure out why it would be wrong, so I pulled the existing one, cleaned it up, and put it back in. > > I know it is not the voltage stabilizer because I put gas in it over the weekend and it is reading correctly. > > At this point, I am going to get the TRF sending unit and stop by a local British car shop for some free advice. > > Will let you know what happens. > > Craig > 1972 TR6 "Life is too short to drive Boring Cars" Bill Pugh Wallace, CA Casper 1957 TR3 TS16665L anabil007 at comcast.net From trglory at verizon.net Wed Nov 16 10:23:30 2011 From: trglory at verizon.net (Joseph Laurito) Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2011 12:23:30 -0500 Subject: [TR] 1972 Triumph TR6 Temp - UPDATE In-Reply-To: <664825801.9298303.1321456096177.JavaMail.root@vznit170070> References: <664825801.9298303.1321456096177.JavaMail.root@vznit170070> Message-ID: <004901cca484$76833390$63899ab0$@net> Craig; After 30 years, the sending unit failed on my TR6 (the one on my TR3 lasted 50 years; they just don't make them like they used to). Symptoms were the same as what you describe, very little movement of the temp needle. I installed a new one from TRF and life is good again. They sometimes come with an adapter so you can fit them to different sized outlets. It's probably in a little plastic bag so check the package again. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of thenicholls at verizon.net Sent: Wednesday, November 16, 2011 10:08 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] 1972 Triumph TR6 Temp - UPDATE List, Just an update, I got a temp gauge from a friend of mine. Went out and ran 72 TR6 until temp moved and oil pressure came down. Tested temp with the gauge along the engine on the side where the exhaust is. I got readings of 187-192 degrees which seems right to me. So, now I am down to either the sending unit is bad, or just the gauge is reading low. I heard from a lister who lives near me that he has the same situation and is just not worrying about it. My issue is that I ordered a new sending unit from TRF GTR110 4/2009 and attempted to install it, it did not fit. Since it is the only one listed by the big three, I could not figure out why it would be wrong, so I pulled the existing one, cleaned it up, and put it back in. I know it is not the voltage stabilizer because I put gas in it over the weekend and it is reading correctly. At this point, I am going to get the TRF sending unit and stop by a local British car shop for some free advice. Will let you know what happens. Craig 1972 TR6 From agraham at execulink.com Wed Nov 16 10:26:35 2011 From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham) Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2011 12:26:35 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR 2/3 fan/alternator belts. Message-ID: <4EC3F24B.50506@execulink.com> Hello List: Have an alternator conversion on my TR2 and have struggled with the fan belt since installing the alternator. I have used a Gates TR24379 which is a 3/4" belt, 38 3/8" long. Impossible tight fit and a bear to try to get on or off. The next Gates belt in this series (Truck/bus Green Stripe) is 40 5/8" and is too long. Searching the Gates site and found a series of 7/8" belts that would seem to do the job at 39 1/8" - which is listed by Gates as the "stock" belt for the TR2/3/4 series - TR28386 (Green Stripe). Can we use a 7/8" belt on our pulleys? Always thought that the belts were supposed to be 3/4" - not worry about it and use it if it fits?? Thanks for any help with this one. Angelo Graham From pethier at comcast.net Wed Nov 16 10:45:27 2011 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2011 17:45:27 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Rostyle In-Reply-To: <2C0B60C2.9704.4230.81F8.5C422F3A762B@aol.com> Message-ID: <103002476.2243809.1321465527084.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Often wondered why Triumph had Rostyle wheel covers and MG had Rostyle steel wheels. Also, I have heard that Rostyle wheels were made to resemble "Paddy Hopkirk" alloy wheels, but I've never seeh a picture of "Paddy Hopkirk" alloy wheels. Anyone have more info and/or a link to a picture? Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://www.mnautox.com ----- Original Message ----- > From: "carlsereda" > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Wednesday, November 16, 2011 11:01:43 AM > Subject: Re: [TR] Rostyle > I have an older Triumph book with photo of a TR5... black car, black > surrey top, black and chrome rostyle hub caps.. best looking TR5 I've > ever seen! > Regards, > Carl > '63 TR4 since '74 > > > On Nov 16, 2011, at 7:08:46 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > > Steve's comment is really good. Having lived on both sides of the > > pond, I'd > > say those trims are generally rated as highly undesirable in North > > America, but highly prized in the UK... From anabil007 at comcast.net Wed Nov 16 11:03:24 2011 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh) Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2011 10:03:24 -0800 Subject: [TR] Fwd: 1972 Triumph TR6 Temp - UPDATE References: Message-ID: Begin forwarded message: > From: William Pugh > Subject: Re: [TR] 1972 Triumph TR6 Temp - UPDATE > Date: November 16, 2011 9:03:41 AM PST > To: thenicholls at verizon.net > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net > > I have had very good luck with NOS type instruments from these guys" > > > http://www.gaugeguys.com/Smiths/classic.htm > > I got an Oil Pressure / Temperature combination for my TR3 ... the quality was outstanding. I would think the same might work for you. > I also invested $40.00 for a laser temperature reader (you just point a pull the trigger and it tells you the temperature at any given point) > Also kind of neat for measuring temps on lots of stuff, including my Cat ... > > > On Nov 16, 2011, at 7:08 AM, thenicholls at verizon.net wrote: > >> List, >> >> Just an update, I got a temp gauge from a friend of mine. Went out and ran 72 TR6 until temp moved and oil pressure came down. >> >> Tested temp with the gauge along the engine on the side where the exhaust is. I got readings of 187-192 degrees which seems right to me. >> >> So, now I am down to either the sending unit is bad, or just the gauge is reading low. I heard from a lister who lives near me that he has the same situation and is just not worrying about it. >> >> My issue is that I ordered a new sending unit from TRF GTR110 4/2009 and attempted to install it, it did not fit. Since it is the only one listed by the big three, I could not figure out why it would be wrong, so I pulled the existing one, cleaned it up, and put it back in. >> >> I know it is not the voltage stabilizer because I put gas in it over the weekend and it is reading correctly. >> >> At this point, I am going to get the TRF sending unit and stop by a local British car shop for some free advice. >> >> Will let you know what happens. >> >> Craig >> 1972 TR6 > > > "Life is too short to drive Boring Cars" > > Bill Pugh > Wallace, CA > Casper > 1957 TR3 > TS16665L > anabil007 at comcast.net From guy at genfiniti.com Wed Nov 16 12:01:01 2011 From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins) Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2011 13:01:01 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR 2/3 fan/alternator belts. In-Reply-To: <4EC3F24B.50506@execulink.com> References: <4EC3F24B.50506@execulink.com> Message-ID: Angelo, I've been wrestling with this one myself for a while. I converted to an AC Delco 7127, with a large pulley so I would not have to change the crank or water pump pulley to a more narrow dimension. The thing to bear in mind is that a belt IS NOT supposed to bottom out in the pulleys. Only the sides of the belt should make contact. If the belt does bottom out in a pulley, it will make a god-awful whining sound that gets louder as RPMs go up. I am using a Gates TR28390. It was a tight fit going on (had to loosen the mounting bolt to the point where I could cheat the alternator toward the belt to get it to slip over the pulley), but seems to be doing well. Best of luck!! On Nov 16, 2011, at 11:26 AM, Angelo Graham wrote: > Hello List: > Have an alternator conversion on my TR2 and have struggled with the fan belt since installing the alternator. I have used a Gates TR24379 which is a 3/4" belt, 38 3/8" long. Impossible tight fit and a bear to try to get on or off. The next Gates belt in this series (Truck/bus Green Stripe) is 40 5/8" and is too long. Searching the Gates site and found a series of 7/8" belts that would seem to do the job at 39 1/8" - which is listed by Gates as the "stock" belt for the TR2/3/4 series - TR28386 (Green Stripe). > Can we use a 7/8" belt on our pulleys? Always thought that the belts were supposed to be 3/4" - not worry about it and use it if it fits?? > Thanks for any help with this one. > Angelo Graham > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/guy at genfiniti.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Nov 16 12:24:20 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2011 11:24:20 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR 2/3 fan/alternator belts. In-Reply-To: <4EC3F24B.50506@execulink.com> References: <4EC3F24B.50506@execulink.com> Message-ID: <007901cca495$57bb5940$07320bc0$@rr.com> > Can we use a 7/8" belt on our pulleys? I don't recall offhand which one I settled on, but the 7/8" width will work with our pulleys. In truth, neither 3/4" nor 7/8" is exactly correct, but both are "close enough". However, since the 7/8" belt rides higher in the pulleys, the lengths are not strictly comparable. IIRC, the TR24379 actually winds up being effectively longer than the TR28386. And none of them are particularly easy to change. The original belt was a bear to change as well. One way of dealing with the problem is to loosen the rear generator bolt and completely remove the front lower bolt. Install the belt over the pulleys, then install the front generator bolt and partially tighten the rear bolt. Then set the belt tension and fully tighten both lower bolts. Another, more risky way is to lay the belt into the generator and crankshaft pulley grooves, then pull it up over the water pump nose. Then jam a small screwdriver or similar between the belt and the water pump pulley groove, and bump the starter to walk the belt into the groove (while praying the screwdriver doesn't wind up sticking through the radiator). Either way, the last step is to double-check that both lower bolts are fully tight. It's very common for them to work loose and ruin the generator end plates and/or the mounts before the problem gets noticed. I also suggest replacing the lock washers if they haven't been replaced recently, as they do lose tension over time. -- Randall From allenhess at mgcarclub.com Wed Nov 16 12:48:06 2011 From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess) Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2011 14:48:06 -0500 Subject: [TR] Rostyle In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <723AFDEF-E395-43E5-91F0-EE358668348F@mgcarclub.com> On Nov 16, 2011, at 2:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > Also, I have heard that Rostyle wheels were made to resemble "Paddy > Hopkirk" alloy wheels, but I've never seeh a picture of "Paddy > Hopkirk" alloy wheels. Anyone have more info and/or a link to a > picture? > > Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA Found this, scroll halfway down . . . don't think they resemble Rostyle though. http://retrorides.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=pfsw&action=print&thread=94519 Allen Hess From McGaheyRx at aol.com Wed Nov 16 13:08:17 2011 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2011 15:08:17 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Rostyle Message-ID: <4cd9d.569960d6.3bf57231@aol.com> interesting vent shapes strongly resemble TR8 wheels Cheers, Jack Mc In a message dated 11/16/2011 2:59:41 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, allenhess at mgcarclub.com writes: Found this, scroll halfway down . . . don't think they resemble Rostyle though. http://retrorides.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=pfsw&action=print&thread=945 19 From dctr6 at optonline.net Wed Nov 16 13:17:36 2011 From: dctr6 at optonline.net (Dennis Culligan) Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2011 15:17:36 -0500 Subject: [TR] Was {TR} 1972 Triumph TR6 Temp = Update Message-ID: <005601cca49c$c8513380$58f39a80$@net> William Pugh wrote: > Also kind of neat for measuring temps on lots of stuff, including my Cat So how hot IS your cat? Enquiring minds want to know. Dennis From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Wed Nov 16 18:48:18 2011 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2011 17:48:18 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] small wiring harness Message-ID: <1321494498.74304.YahooMailNeo@web65302.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> I've been searching through the big two catalogues and can't seem to find the small wiring harness that goes from the steering box to the horns/turn signals ect. It plugs into the wires coming from the steering box and is around 24" long with 4 wires. Anyone know a source? Hopefully I've simply not been able to see things right in front of my eyes.LOL gary n. From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Nov 16 19:40:19 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2011 18:40:19 -0800 Subject: [TR] small wiring harness In-Reply-To: <1321494498.74304.YahooMailNeo@web65302.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> References: <1321494498.74304.YahooMailNeo@web65302.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <034701cca4d2$3f84b190$0501a8c0@randall> > seem to find the > small wiring harness that goes from the steering box to the > horns/turn signals Sounds like you are looking for P/N 502355. However, it's a lot longer than 24", more like 10 feet, because it has to run from the control head down through the steering box and then back up to the junctions behind the horn. TRF has it on sale for $45. However, I wasn't very happy with the last one I got from them. The wires had the correct extra-thin insulation, but the outer cloth jacket seemed thicker and looser than the original, which made it very difficult to work it through the stator tube. After actually breaking one of the wires, I tried using "wire pulling lubricant" from Home Depot, which seemed to work well. However, after just a few years, it appears that the lubricant has hardened and the harness is now permanently stuck inside the stator tube. I was able to re-use it by leaving it stuck in the tube, but heat is the only way I can think of to get it out. -- Randall From wbeech at flash.net Wed Nov 16 19:51:15 2011 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2011 20:51:15 -0600 Subject: [TR] small wiring harness In-Reply-To: <1321494498.74304.YahooMailNeo@web65302.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> References: <1321494498.74304.YahooMailNeo@web65302.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Gary, Try www.britishwiring.com. If you don't find it on the web site, give them a call. Bill Sent from mobile Bill On Nov 16, 2011, at 7:48 PM, Gary Nafziger wrote: > I've been searching through the big two catalogues and can't seem to find the > small wiring harness that goes from the steering box to the horns/turn signals > ect. It plugs into the wires coming from the steering box and is around 24" > long with 4 wires. > > Anyone know a source? Hopefully I've simply not been able > to see things right in front of my eyes.LOL > > gary n. > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From davewillner at pa.net Thu Nov 17 06:29:48 2011 From: davewillner at pa.net (davewillner) Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2011 08:29:48 -0500 Subject: [TR] small wiring harness References: <1321494498.74304.YahooMailNeo@web65302.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I second using the British Wiring loom, it's very to install (after you get the control head back together :) ...they wrap it very tight and stagger the bullets to allow it to slide down the tube very easily , no problems at all, and it has the OEM type cloth cover as well. I couldn't snake the first one I got from one of the "big two" at all, even with all the help and advice from the list... Dave Willner Stroudsburg PA 59 TR3A 70 MGB 70 BSA 441 VS ----- Original Message ----- From: "Wbeech" To: "Gary Nafziger" Cc: Sent: Wednesday, November 16, 2011 9:51 PM Subject: Re: [TR] small wiring harness > Gary, > Try www.britishwiring.com. If you don't find it on the web site, give > them a > call. > Bill > > Sent from mobile Bill > > On Nov 16, 2011, at 7:48 PM, Gary Nafziger wrote: > >> I've been searching through the big two catalogues and can't seem to find > the >> small wiring harness that goes from the steering box to the horns/turn > signals >> ect. It plugs into the wires coming from the steering box and is around > 24" >> long with 4 wires. >> >> Anyone know a source? Hopefully I've simply not been able >> to see things right in front of my eyes.LOL >> >> gary n. >> >> >> triumphs at autox.team.net >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/davewillner at pa.net From pethier at comcast.net Thu Nov 17 12:33:59 2011 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2011 19:33:59 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Rostyle In-Reply-To: <723AFDEF-E395-43E5-91F0-EE358668348F@mgcarclub.com> Message-ID: <455298307.2303446.1321558439974.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Thanks. My brain is starting to come around. There were two kinds of styled steel wheels on the MG Midgets: One was the Rostyle which were like the ones for the MGB, and do resemble the Rostyle wheel covers on Triumphs. http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/296019043/ The other was different style which apparently had no cousin in the MGB. They were used in the round-arch days, I think. THESE were the ones said to resemble the Paddy Hopkirk wheels. Maybe they themselves had something to do with Paddy Hopkirk himself. I had these with my 1966 Midget, but I'm sure they came from a later car. Sorry for any confusion my previous memory (or indeed, my current memory) causes. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://www.mnautox.com ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Allen Hess" > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Wednesday, November 16, 2011 1:48:06 PM > Subject: Re: [TR] Rostyle > On Nov 16, 2011, at 2:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > > Also, I have heard that Rostyle wheels were made to resemble "Paddy > > Hopkirk" alloy wheels, but I've never seeh a picture of "Paddy > > Hopkirk" alloy wheels. Anyone have more info and/or a link to a > > picture? > > > > Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA > > Found this, scroll halfway down . . . don't think they resemble > Rostyle though. > > http://retrorides.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=pfsw&action=print&thread=94519 > > Allen Hess From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Nov 17 12:44:03 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2011 11:44:03 -0800 Subject: [TR] small wiring harness In-Reply-To: <034701cca4d2$3f84b190$0501a8c0@randall> References: <1321494498.74304.YahooMailNeo@web65302.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> <034701cca4d2$3f84b190$0501a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <021301cca561$43180480$c9480d80$@rr.com> > Sounds like you are looking for P/N 502355. PS, the Moss part number is 356-410. British Wiring SC-94. Anyone know why BW says it doesn't fit TR3B? Should be identical to the late 3A AFAIK. -- Randall From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Thu Nov 17 17:31:38 2011 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2011 16:31:38 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] TR 2/3 fan/alternator belts Message-ID: <1321576298.41147.YahooMailNeo@web39411.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hi List! I use to use a thin belt, when I did my conversion to alt. (keeping the wide pulleys). I didn't care for it that much & switched back to the standard wide belt, which was a wrestling match that I always one at. Now that I've pulled the engine & tranny, to install the Christian Marx Rear Engine Seal, I'm planning on having the Gen/Alt Arm's extension open grove (where the bolt goes through lengthen so I will be able to install the wide belt on the three pulleys without a struggle. I figure that's one way of dealing with the problem. -Cosmo Kramer From bhardysmith at aol.com Fri Nov 18 05:38:17 2011 From: bhardysmith at aol.com (bhardysmith at aol.com) Date: Fri, 18 Nov 2011 07:38:17 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] http://magazine.dvice.co.nz/wp... Message-ID: <8CE740614E0A7B5-6D8-92232@webmail-d031.sysops.aol.com> http://magazine.dvice.co.nz/wp-content/themes/monotone/templatea.html From anabil007 at comcast.net Fri Nov 18 09:10:34 2011 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh) Date: Fri, 18 Nov 2011 08:10:34 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR 2/3 fan/alternator belts In-Reply-To: <1321576298.41147.YahooMailNeo@web39411.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <1321576298.41147.YahooMailNeo@web39411.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <6B6BD4FE-80F6-4F9E-9FA3-6D6EEAF2CA94@comcast.net> I wrestled with this problem on my TR3, but then I bought the "narrow belt kit" from Moss . Aluminum Water Pump Pulley, Aluminum Crankshaft Pulley with Harmonic Balancer. I had already replaced the engine driven fan and installed and electric one. This was the most noticeable modification I have ever made to the TR3, the engine immediately ran much, much smoother, revved faster, and made Casper feel like he just wanted to "RUN" ... On Nov 17, 2011, at 4:31 PM, Cosmo Kramer wrote: > Hi List! > I use to use a thin belt, when I did my conversion to alt. (keeping > the wide pulleys). I didn't care for it that much & switched back to the > standard wide belt, which was a wrestling match that I always one at. Now that > I've pulled the engine & tranny, to install the Christian Marx Rear Engine > Seal, I'm planning on having the Gen/Alt Arm's extension open grove (where the > bolt goes through lengthen so I will be able to install the wide belt on the > three pulleys without a struggle. I figure that's one way of dealing with the > problem. > -Cosmo Kramer "Life is too short to drive Boring Cars" Bill Pugh Wallace, CA Casper 1957 TR3 TS16665L anabil007 at comcast.net From tr3 at roadrunner.com Fri Nov 18 20:05:39 2011 From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (Hdefer) Date: Fri, 18 Nov 2011 19:05:39 -0800 Subject: [TR] Tr3 Steering wheel cover Message-ID: Does anyone know where I can get one of those nice lace-up custom fit leather steering wheel covers for my TR3? Didn't Moss use to carry them? Now I only see the strip wrap type. Hans From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Nov 18 20:32:52 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 18 Nov 2011 19:32:52 -0800 Subject: [TR] Tr3 Steering wheel cover In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <023701cca66b$ebca7fd0$0501a8c0@randall> > Does anyone know where I can get one of those nice lace-up > custom fit > leather steering wheel covers for my TR3? I believe they were made by Wheelskins. Check out their web site, or look for them on e-bay (which is about $10 cheaper). You'll have to give them the measurements of your steering wheel, but the one I got looks just like the one I got from Moss over 20 years ago. (Which finally died after the wreck was left out in the rain.) -- Randall From deruiterville at hotmail.com Fri Nov 18 20:53:56 2011 From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter) Date: Fri, 18 Nov 2011 21:53:56 -0600 Subject: [TR] Tr3 Steering wheel cover In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hans- I purchased a Wheelskins cover through Ebay earlier in the year and am very happy with it. I had it custom made to these dimensions: Diameter 16.75", grip circumference 2.5" Regards, Randy > From: tr3 at roadrunner.com > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Fri, 18 Nov 2011 19:05:39 -0800 > Subject: [TR] Tr3 Steering wheel cover > > Does anyone know where I can get one of those nice lace-up custom fit > leather steering wheel covers for my TR3? > Didn't Moss use to carry them? Now I only see the strip wrap type. > > Hans From tr3 at roadrunner.com Fri Nov 18 20:59:28 2011 From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (Hdefer) Date: Fri, 18 Nov 2011 19:59:28 -0800 Subject: [TR] Tr3 Steering wheel cover In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2E5B0FAF-4152-4250-8CF4-2362F984A969@roadrunner.com> Thanks Randy, I thought the dia. was 16 1/2" for the TR3(?) Hans On Nov 18, 2011, at 7:53 PM, Randy and Valerie DeRuiter wrote: > Hans- > > I purchased a Wheelskins cover through Ebay earlier in the year and > am very happy with it. I had it custom made to these dimensions: > > Diameter 16.75", grip circumference 2.5" > > Regards, > Randy > > > From: tr3 at roadrunner.com > > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > > Date: Fri, 18 Nov 2011 19:05:39 -0800 > > Subject: [TR] Tr3 Steering wheel cover > > > > Does anyone know where I can get one of those nice lace-up custom > fit > > leather steering wheel covers for my TR3? > > Didn't Moss use to carry them? Now I only see the strip wrap type. > > > > Hans From deruiterville at hotmail.com Fri Nov 18 21:07:14 2011 From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy and Valerie DeRuiter) Date: Fri, 18 Nov 2011 22:07:14 -0600 Subject: [TR] Tr3 Steering wheel cover In-Reply-To: <2E5B0FAF-4152-4250-8CF4-2362F984A969@roadrunner.com> References: , <2E5B0FAF-4152-4250-8CF4-2362F984A969@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: Not sure if there is variation on these wheels, but the outer edge diameter on mine is 16.75" (just checked, its not on the car yet!). The 2.5" circumference wound up being very good as well when the stitches were drawn tight. Thanks Randy, I thought the dia. was 16 1/2" for the TR3(?) Hans From tr3 at roadrunner.com Fri Nov 18 21:34:27 2011 From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (Hdefer) Date: Fri, 18 Nov 2011 20:34:27 -0800 Subject: [TR] Tr3 Steering wheel cover In-Reply-To: References: , <2E5B0FAF-4152-4250-8CF4-2362F984A969@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: <983BE70C-8273-4F9F-8480-48A6DF6EB109@roadrunner.com> Yes, you are right. I just checked too. I could only find covers that were made for specific cars on ebay (no TR's of course), but I wrote a vendor an email. Thanks On Nov 18, 2011, at 8:07 PM, Randy and Valerie DeRuiter wrote: > Not sure if there is variation on these wheels, but the outer edge > diameter on mine is 16.75" (just checked, its not on the car yet!). > The 2.5" circumference wound up being very good as well when the > stitches were drawn tight. > > > > Thanks Randy, I thought the dia. was 16 1/2" for the TR3(?) > Hans From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Nov 19 01:37:03 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 19 Nov 2011 00:37:03 -0800 Subject: [TR] Tr3 Steering wheel cover In-Reply-To: <983BE70C-8273-4F9F-8480-48A6DF6EB109@roadrunner.com> References: , <2E5B0FAF-4152-4250-8CF4-2362F984A969@roadrunner.com> <983BE70C-8273-4F9F-8480-48A6DF6EB109@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: <026201cca696$69f48700$0501a8c0@randall> > I could only find covers > that were made for specific cars on eBay Here's one of the ads I was talking about: http://fwd4.me/0h4f Note where it says "If your steering wheel is unique and does not match any of our sizes, simply email your unique measurements to us and we'll custom make a Wheelskin for you. " Also note that solid black is available (and is what I chose), you don't have to go for the two-tone look if you don't want to. If you would prefer not to deal through eBay, check out their home site at: http://www.wheelskins.com/europerf_wheelskin.php I kind of suspect that, if you ask, they'll match the eBay price or perhaps even improve on it a bit. -- Randall From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Sat Nov 19 06:33:08 2011 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Sat, 19 Nov 2011 08:33:08 -0500 Subject: [TR] Any advice on mounting and refurbishment of hard top - TR4 TR6? Message-ID: A fellow club member just built a garage mahal and was going to purchase a chain hoist - I had one laying around for 10 years gathering dust and gave it to him. A few days later he called me and said he had a gift for me - I have a hard top for my car. It's not in perfect shape and it needs new rubber seals - The vinyl top is a little rough in places. I have no idea what kind it is or how to mount it - based on the hole in the area between the door and back window - I seem to recall a turnbuckle style approach that might be what the holes are for. it also looks like there are 2 pairs of small holes (screw holes or maybe pop rivet?) at the lower rear edge of the top. link to image of top or * http://tinyurl.com/7dfh4go* * * Any help with any of these questions would be great. Feel free to contact me off list if you like. 1. Any idea of the name of the manufacturer? Anyone got an old manual with mounting instructions? 2. Source for rubber seals or hardware. 3. There is no number 3. 4. Thinking of stripping the vinyl and using truckbed liner spray on the top. I've seen an aftermarket surrey top with this type of cover and it looked pretty good - and with taking it on and off seems like a durable way to go. Any other opinions or options here? 5. Any one ever thought of converting one of these tops to a surrey top? Did they have any luck? I'm an old boat repair guy and years ago did quite a few cosmetic and structural fiberglass repairs to boats. Or would be a shame to wreck this top... 6. Can it work with both TR4 or TR6 - can they share the same top (at different times :)) or does the top have to be configured for specifically one model. Sorry for the long list! Thanks Chris 54 TR2; 63 TR4; 69 TR6 From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk Sat Nov 19 07:01:53 2011 From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Sat, 19 Nov 2011 14:01:53 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] Hemmings says nice things about a certain Stag Message-ID: <1321711313.39078.YahooMailNeo@web29408.mail.ird.yahoo.com> Listers, Earlier this week, I received a friendly email from Dave LaChance, Assistant Editor of Hemmings magazine. It included a link to Hemming's blogsite and says some very nice things about a certain book called "Turn Left at the Pacific!" You can see that review by clicking here http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2011/11/14/the-tale-of-a-trans-american-tr iumph-trip/?refer=news and you'll also find it in the 'Review' section of www.standard-triumph-books.co.uk/ I'd just like to make one thing very clear. The list understandably prohibits promotion where it can be perceived a financial gain is likely to be made by someone - in this case me, as I am the book's author. I'd just like it to be known that setting up / printing / binding costs for this book have been considerable and recovery of those costs are the only things in the focus of the publisher and myself. In the event a profit is somehow made at a later date and depending on what it is, we may well pass that in equal shares to the non-profits the Triumph Trans AmeriCa Charity Drive supported. Jonmac http://standard-triumph-books.co.uk From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sat Nov 19 07:07:16 2011 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Sat, 19 Nov 2011 09:07:16 -0500 Subject: [TR] Tr3 Steering wheel cover In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4EC7B814.4080307@adelphia.net> Hans, Go with the Wheel Skins as the other members have suggested. I have them on both my 3 and 4 and they are just great. It does take some time to install but it is worth the effort. They supply the correct thread (waxed) which allows you to really get a snug fit. One caution during install; Use a pair of gloves as you pull the thread tight. It will reduce the wear and tear on your hands! I am thinking of getting one for my new Tacoma. Bob On 11/18/2011 10:05 PM, Hdefer wrote: > Does anyone know where I can get one of those nice lace-up custom fit > leather steering wheel covers for my TR3? > Didn't Moss use to carry them? Now I only see the strip wrap type. > > Hans From Dave1massey at cs.com Sat Nov 19 07:51:16 2011 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sat, 19 Nov 2011 09:51:16 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Any advice on mounting and refurbishment of hard top - TR4 TR6? Message-ID: <3d35c.3c9d2bf0.3bf91c64@cs.com> In a message dated 11/19/2011 7:50:53 AM Central Standard Time, ccsimonsen at gmail.com writes: > 1. Any idea of the name of the manufacturer? Anyone got an old manual > with > mounting instructions? Nope. Maybe it was Perfect Plastics (?) in PA. > 2. Source for rubber seals or hardware. If you can figure out who made it check with them. Else check the J C Whitney catalog and see if you can match the profile. > 3. There is no number 3. Dang! That's the only one I can answer. > 4. Thinking of stripping the vinyl and using truckbed liner spray on the > top. I've seen an aftermarket surrey top with this type of cover and it > looked pretty good - and with taking it on and off seems like a durable > way > to go. Any other opinions or options here? Either that or black chipguard, available at your local autopaint store. But getting a consistent texture may be tricky so practice on something disposable. > 5. Any one ever thought of converting one of these tops to a surrey top? > Did they have any luck? I'm an old boat repair guy and years ago did > quite > a few cosmetic and structural fiberglass repairs to boats. Or would be a > shame to wreck this top... In a perfect world you can find one that has been damaged in the front portion. > 6. Can it work with both TR4 or TR6 - can they share the same top (at > different times :)) or does the top have to be configured for specifically > one model. The rear scuttle has a slightly different contour but if the seal is generous enough it should seal up just the same. Try it and let us know. Congrats. Dave From wbeech at flash.net Sat Nov 19 08:14:00 2011 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Sat, 19 Nov 2011 09:14:00 -0600 Subject: [TR] Hemmings says nice things about a certain Stag In-Reply-To: <1321711313.39078.YahooMailNeo@web29408.mail.ird.yahoo.com> References: <1321711313.39078.YahooMailNeo@web29408.mail.ird.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1907B9C5-77B1-4EE5-A5EA-3B09862BD855@flash.net> Jon, How can I get a signed copy? Bill Sent from mobile Bill On Nov 19, 2011, at 8:01 AM, John Macartney wrote: > Listers, > Earlier this week, I received a friendly email from Dave LaChance, > Assistant Editor of Hemmings magazine. It included a link to Hemming's > blogsite and says some very nice things about a certain book called "Turn Left > at the Pacific!" You can see that review by clicking here > http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2011/11/14/the-tale-of-a-trans-american-tr > iumph-trip/?refer=news > > and you'll also find it in the 'Review' section of > www.standard-triumph-books.co.uk/ > > I'd just like to make one thing very > clear. The list understandably prohibits promotion where it can be perceived a > financial gain is likely to be made by someone - in this case me, as I am the > book's author. I'd just like it to be known that setting up / printing / > binding costs for this book have been considerable and recovery of those costs > are the only things in the focus of the publisher and myself. In the event a > profit is somehow made at a later date and depending on what it is, we may > well pass that in equal shares to the non-profits the Triumph Trans AmeriCa > Charity Drive supported. > Jonmac > > http://standard-triumph-books.co.uk > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Nov 19 09:49:29 2011 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 19 Nov 2011 11:49:29 -0500 Subject: [TR] Any advice on mounting and refurbishment of hard top - TR4 TR6? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <00C192F603B2426BA094D023395BD7EB@BobPC> Here's a couple of links that should help you out. The first is from Paul Rego's site. Paul is a 6-Pack Forum member and has a great web site that documents all the work he has done on his car. Hardtop restoration http://www.74tr6.com/hardtop.htm Hardtop Carrier http://www.74tr6.com/hardtopcarrier.htm Another very active Forum member is "Tush" who recently posted in the Forum step by step pictures showing his hardtop installation. http://www.6-pack.org/j15/index.php?option=com_kunena&func=view&catid=21&id=207838&Itemid=85 Pictures really are worth a thousand words...........Hope some of this helps...........getting a free hardtop is a pretty good deal! Bob Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 1975 TR6 with: Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff & CVJs -----Original Message----- From: Chris Simo Sent: Saturday, November 19, 2011 8:33 AM To: list Triumph Subject: [TR] Any advice on mounting and refurbishment of hard top - TR4 TR6? A fellow club member just built a garage mahal and was going to purchase a chain hoist - I had one laying around for 10 years gathering dust and gave it to him. A few days later he called me and said he had a gift for me - I have a hard top for my car. It's not in perfect shape and it needs new rubber seals - The vinyl top is a little rough in places. I have no idea what kind it is or how to mount it - based on the hole in the area between the door and back window - I seem to recall a turnbuckle style approach that might be what the holes are for. it also looks like there are 2 pairs of small holes (screw holes or maybe pop rivet?) at the lower rear edge of the top. link to image of top or * http://tinyurl.com/7dfh4go* * * Any help with any of these questions would be great. Feel free to contact me off list if you like. 1. Any idea of the name of the manufacturer? Anyone got an old manual with mounting instructions? 2. Source for rubber seals or hardware. 3. There is no number 3. 4. Thinking of stripping the vinyl and using truckbed liner spray on the top. I've seen an aftermarket surrey top with this type of cover and it looked pretty good - and with taking it on and off seems like a durable way to go. Any other opinions or options here? 5. Any one ever thought of converting one of these tops to a surrey top? Did they have any luck? I'm an old boat repair guy and years ago did quite a few cosmetic and structural fiberglass repairs to boats. Or would be a shame to wreck this top... 6. Can it work with both TR4 or TR6 - can they share the same top (at different times :)) or does the top have to be configured for specifically one model. Sorry for the long list! Thanks Chris 54 TR2; 63 TR4; 69 TR6 triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Sat Nov 19 11:33:47 2011 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Sat, 19 Nov 2011 13:33:47 -0500 Subject: [TR] Any advice on mounting and refurbishment of hard top - TR4 TR6? In-Reply-To: <00C192F603B2426BA094D023395BD7EB@BobPC> References: <00C192F603B2426BA094D023395BD7EB@BobPC> Message-ID: Thanks! I was outside cleaning all the spider remains, bird droppings, and yeech! whatever else was on or inside the top and found a piece of decal left on the window that had "h Plastics" and a second line "Park, Penn". So you are correct It is a Parrish Plastics top. Thanks - I don't think I would have guessed it from the piece of decal. Smooth line bought Parrish that was located in Bethel Park, PA . It looks like I'm in luck as they sell seals. Anyone got a photo of the hardware that holds down the hood in the back? Looking for the bracket that bolts to the roof and the bracket that bolts to the car - hoping to make those myself and save some money. I'm not a member of 6pack so I could not see any of the images so I don't know if there are some pics there or not. Thanks again! Chris From mmarr at notwires.com Thu Nov 17 13:03:47 2011 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2011 14:03:47 -0600 Subject: [TR] Rostyle References: <455298307.2303446.1321558439974.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <13C4185147E54389A7EC864FC1AB089B@trigeni.com> And, just to add to the soup, Ford used Rostyle wheels on things like Cortina GTs and (possibly) Cortina Lotuses. I have see them on Lotus Cortinas, too, but I don't know if they were OEM. Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Allen Hess" Cc: Sent: Thursday, November 17, 2011 1:33 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Rostyle > Thanks. > > My brain is starting to come around. > > There were two kinds of styled steel wheels on the MG Midgets: > > One was the Rostyle which were like the ones for the MGB, and do resemble > the Rostyle wheel covers on Triumphs. > http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/296019043/ > > The other was different style which apparently had no cousin in the MGB. > They were used in the round-arch days, I think. THESE were the ones said > to resemble the Paddy Hopkirk wheels. Maybe they themselves had something > to do with Paddy Hopkirk himself. I had these with my 1966 Midget, but > I'm sure they came from a later car. > > Sorry for any confusion my previous memory (or indeed, my current memory) > causes. > > Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA > 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue > 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch > 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl > 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red > pethier [at] comcast [dot] net > http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier > http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk > http://www.mnautox.com > > ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "Allen Hess" >> To: triumphs at autox.team.net >> Sent: Wednesday, November 16, 2011 1:48:06 PM >> Subject: Re: [TR] Rostyle >> On Nov 16, 2011, at 2:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: >> >> > Also, I have heard that Rostyle wheels were made to resemble "Paddy >> > Hopkirk" alloy wheels, but I've never seeh a picture of "Paddy >> > Hopkirk" alloy wheels. Anyone have more info and/or a link to a >> > picture? >> > >> > Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA >> >> Found this, scroll halfway down . . . don't think they resemble >> Rostyle though. >> >> http://retrorides.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=pfsw&action=print&thread=94519 >> >> Allen Hess > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mmarr at notwires.com From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Nov 19 13:43:44 2011 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 19 Nov 2011 15:43:44 -0500 Subject: [TR] Any advice on mounting and refurbishment of hard top - TR4 TR6? In-Reply-To: References: <00C192F603B2426BA094D023395BD7EB@BobPC> Message-ID: <434BABB479A644E1A47E18867702F659@BobPC> Chris...... there are tons of pictures in the 6-Pack Forum. The posting of pictures is one of its advantages. You don't have to join 6-Pack to take part in the Forum. All you have to do is register with a user name and password......... and it's free. Bob Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 1975 TR6 with: Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff & CVJs -----Original Message----- From: Chris Simo Sent: Saturday, November 19, 2011 1:33 PM To: list Triumph Subject: Re: [TR] Any advice on mounting and refurbishment of hard top - TR4 TR6? Thanks! I was outside cleaning all the spider remains, bird droppings, and yeech! whatever else was on or inside the top and found a piece of decal left on the window that had "h Plastics" and a second line "Park, Penn". So you are correct It is a Parrish Plastics top. Thanks - I don't think I would have guessed it from the piece of decal. Smooth line bought Parrish that was located in Bethel Park, PA . It looks like I'm in luck as they sell seals. Anyone got a photo of the hardware that holds down the hood in the back? Looking for the bracket that bolts to the roof and the bracket that bolts to the car - hoping to make those myself and save some money. I'm not a member of 6pack so I could not see any of the images so I don't know if there are some pics there or not. Thanks again! Chris triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From spook01 at comcast.net Sat Nov 19 13:57:06 2011 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Sat, 19 Nov 2011 14:57:06 -0600 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Any_advice_on_mounting_and_refurbishment_of_hard_t?= =?utf-8?q?op_-_TR4_TR6=3F?= Message-ID: <20111119205702.071D718767A@autox.team.net> Probably a parrish plastics, now done by another company. I bought a new one last spring but don't have it on yet. Won't be home for four days or so, but could send instructions then. Ray Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: Dave1massey at cs.com To: Subject: [TR] Any advice on mounting and refurbishment of hard top - TR4 TR6? Date: Sat, Nov 19, 2011 08:51 In a message dated 11/19/2011 7:50:53 AM Central Standard Time, ccsimonsen at gmail.com writes: > 1. Any idea of the name of the manufacturer? Anyone got an old manual > with > mounting instructions? Nope. Maybe it was Perfect Plastics (?) in PA. > 2. Source for rubber seals or hardware. If you can figure out who made it check with them. Else check the J C Whitney catalog and see if you can match the profile. > 3. There is no number 3. Dang! That's the only one I can answer. > 4. Thinking of stripping the vinyl and using truckbed liner spray on the > top. I've seen an aftermarket surrey top with this type of cover and it > looked pretty good - and with taking it on and off seems like a durable > way > to go. Any other opinions or options here? Either that or black chipguard, available at your local autopaint store. But getting a consistent texture may be tricky so practice on something disposable. > 5. Any one ever thought of converting one of these tops to a surrey top? > Did they have any luck? I'm an old boat repair guy and years ago did > quite > a few cosmetic and structural fiberglass repairs to boats. Or would be a > shame to wreck this top... In a perfect world you can find one that has been damaged in the front portion. > 6. Can it work with both TR4 or TR6 - can they share the same top (at > different times :)) or does the top have to be configured for specifically > one model. The rear scuttle has a slightly different contour but if the seal is generous enough it should seal up just the same. Try it and let us know. Congrats. Dave triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sat Nov 19 14:21:13 2011 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Sat, 19 Nov 2011 15:21:13 -0600 Subject: [TR] Hemmings says nice things about a certain Stag In-Reply-To: <1907B9C5-77B1-4EE5-A5EA-3B09862BD855@flash.net> References: <1321711313.39078.YahooMailNeo@web29408.mail.ird.yahoo.com> <1907B9C5-77B1-4EE5-A5EA-3B09862BD855@flash.net> Message-ID: I've purchased the book. excellent read, good cause. highly recommended -------------------------------------------------- From: "Wbeech" Sent: Saturday, November 19, 2011 9:14 AM To: "John Macartney" Cc: Subject: Re: [TR] Hemmings says nice things about a certain Stag > Jon, > How can I get a signed copy? > Bill > Sent from mobile Bill > > On Nov 19, 2011, at 8:01 AM, John Macartney > > wrote: > >> Listers, >> Earlier this week, I received a friendly email from Dave LaChance, >> Assistant Editor of Hemmings magazine. It included a link to Hemming's >> blogsite and says some very nice things about a certain book called "Turn > Left >> at the Pacific!" You can see that review by clicking here >> > http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2011/11/14/the-tale-of-a-trans-american-tr >> iumph-trip/?refer=news >> >> and you'll also find it in the 'Review' section of >> www.standard-triumph-books.co.uk/ >> >> I'd just like to make one thing very >> clear. The list understandably prohibits promotion where it can be >> perceived > a >> financial gain is likely to be made by someone - in this case me, as I am > the >> book's author. I'd just like it to be known that setting up / printing / >> binding costs for this book have been considerable and recovery of those > costs >> are the only things in the focus of the publisher and myself. In the >> event > a >> profit is somehow made at a later date and depending on what it is, we >> may >> well pass that in equal shares to the non-profits the Triumph Trans >> AmeriCa >> Charity Drive supported. >> Jonmac >> >> http://standard-triumph-books.co.uk From levilevi at comcast.net Sat Nov 19 14:29:40 2011 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Sat, 19 Nov 2011 14:29:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] Any advice on mounting and refurbishment of hard top - TR4 TR6? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Before you begin you need to prepare yourself mentally for having rub spots on your paint from the inevitable movement of the top seal. Fine dirt gets between any interface between the top and the paint which helps to dig into the paint. Not a problem if the top is going to be permanent but when it comes off there will be paint issues underneath if you've driven it very much. Been there done that with a hard top and didn't like the downside affects. I sold it with the parts car. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Nov 19, 2011, at 6:33 AM, Chris Simo wrote: > A fellow club member just built a garage mahal and was going to > purchase a > chain hoist - I had one laying around for 10 years gathering dust > and gave > it to him. A few days later he called me and said he had a gift for > me - > I have a hard top for my car. > > It's not in perfect shape and it needs new rubber seals - The vinyl > top is > a little rough in places. > > I have no idea what kind it is or how to mount it - based on the > hole in > the area between the door and back window - I seem to recall a > turnbuckle > style approach that might be what the holes are for. it also looks > like > there are 2 pairs of small holes (screw holes or maybe pop rivet?) > at the > lower rear edge of the top. > > link to image of top or * > http://tinyurl.com/7dfh4go* > * > * > Any help with any of these questions would be great. Feel free to > contact > me off list if you like. > > 1. Any idea of the name of the manufacturer? Anyone got an old > manual with > mounting instructions? > 2. Source for rubber seals or hardware. > 3. There is no number 3. > 4. Thinking of stripping the vinyl and using truckbed liner spray on > the > top. I've seen an aftermarket surrey top with this type of cover > and it > looked pretty good - and with taking it on and off seems like a > durable way > to go. Any other opinions or options here? > 5. Any one ever thought of converting one of these tops to a surrey > top? > Did they have any luck? I'm an old boat repair guy and years ago > did quite > a few cosmetic and structural fiberglass repairs to boats. Or would > be a > shame to wreck this top... > 6. Can it work with both TR4 or TR6 - can they share the same top (at > different times :)) or does the top have to be configured for > specifically > one model. > > Sorry for the long list! Thanks Chris > > 54 TR2; 63 TR4; 69 TR6 > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net From spook01 at comcast.net Sat Nov 19 14:57:17 2011 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Sat, 19 Nov 2011 15:57:17 -0600 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Any_advice_on_mounting_and_refurbishment_of_hard_t?= =?utf-8?q?op_-_TR4_TR6=3F?= Message-ID: <20111119215712.AB72B18786C@autox.team.net> The tr4 top rests on the rear chrome surround. No touch e on paint. I had thought the fellow was putting it on a four. R Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Bud Rolofson" To: "Chris Simo" Cc: "list Triumph" Subject: [TR] Any advice on mounting and refurbishment of hard top - TR4 TR6? Date: Sat, Nov 19, 2011 15:29 Before you begin you need to prepare yourself mentally for having rub spots on your paint from the inevitable movement of the top seal. Fine dirt gets between any interface between the top and the paint which helps to dig into the paint. Not a problem if the top is going to be permanent but when it comes off there will be paint issues underneath if you've driven it very much. Been there done that with a hard top and didn't like the downside affects. I sold it with the parts car. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Nov 19, 2011, at 6:33 AM, Chris Simo wrote: > A fellow club member just built a garage mahal and was going to > purchase a > chain hoist - I had one laying around for 10 years gathering dust > and gave > it to him. A few days later he called me and said he had a gift for > me - > I have a hard top for my car. > > It's not in perfect shape and it needs new rubber seals - The vinyl > top is > a little rough in places. > > I have no idea what kind it is or how to mount it - based on the > hole in > the area between the door and back window - I seem to recall a > turnbuckle > style approach that might be what the holes are for. it also looks > like > there are 2 pairs of small holes (screw holes or maybe pop rivet?) > at the > lower rear edge of the top. > > link to image of top or * > http://tinyurl.com/7dfh4go* > * > * > Any help with any of these questions would be great. Feel free to > contact > me off list if you like. > > 1. Any idea of the name of the manufacturer? Anyone got an old > manual with > mounting instructions? > 2. Source for rubber seals or hardware. > 3. There is no number 3. > 4. Thinking of stripping the vinyl and using truckbed liner spray on > the > top. I've seen an aftermarket surrey top with this type of cover > and it > looked pretty good - and with taking it on and off seems like a > durable way > to go. Any other opinions or options here? > 5. Any one ever thought of converting one of these tops to a surrey > top? > Did they have any luck? I'm an old boat repair guy and years ago > did quite > a few cosmetic and structural fiberglass repairs to boats. Or would > be a > shame to wreck this top... > 6. Can it work with both TR4 or TR6 - can they share the same top (at > different times :)) or does the top have to be configured for > specifically > one model. > > Sorry for the long list! Thanks Chris > > 54 TR2; 63 TR4; 69 TR6 > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Sat Nov 19 16:23:01 2011 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sat, 19 Nov 2011 16:23:01 -0700 Subject: [TR] Tr3 Steering wheel cover In-Reply-To: <4EC7B814.4080307@adelphia.net> References: <4EC7B814.4080307@adelphia.net> Message-ID: On Sat, Nov 19, 2011 at 7:07 AM, Bob Labuz wrote: > Go with the Wheel Skins as the other members have suggested. > > I have them on both my 3 and 4 and they are just great. Bob -- Do you recall what measurements gave you a good fit on the TR4? Geo From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Sat Nov 19 16:40:05 2011 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Sat, 19 Nov 2011 15:40:05 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Tr3 fan switch In-Reply-To: References: <4EC7B814.4080307@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <1321746005.69195.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> what have you all been using for an automatic electric fan switch? i have been using a zirgo, but its a little light for direct wiring without a relay. Frank From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Sat Nov 19 16:40:05 2011 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Sat, 19 Nov 2011 15:40:05 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Tr3 fan switch In-Reply-To: References: <4EC7B814.4080307@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <1321746005.69195.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> what have you all been using for an automatic electric fan switch? i have been using a zirgo, but its a little light for direct wiring without a relay. Frank From tr3 at roadrunner.com Sat Nov 19 19:28:34 2011 From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (Hdefer) Date: Sat, 19 Nov 2011 18:28:34 -0800 Subject: [TR] Tr3 Steering wheel cover In-Reply-To: References: , , , <2E5B0FAF-4152-4250-8CF4-2362F984A969@roadrunner.com>, , <983BE70C-8273-4F9F-8480-48A6DF6EB109@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: That looks terrific. Exactly what I had in mind. It's a "Wheelskins", right? Thanks, Hans On Nov 19, 2011, at 8:31 AM, Randy and Valerie DeRuiter wrote: > Hans- > > Thought you might want a picture showing this size on a 3A wheel. I > think the overall diameter is good, and I'm happy with the > circumference. You might be able to cheat a little and go less than > 2.5" but I didn't want any gap and everything is still tight. > > Randy > > > From: tr3 at roadrunner.com > > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > > Date: Fri, 18 Nov 2011 20:34:27 -0800 > > Subject: Re: [TR] Tr3 Steering wheel cover > > > > Yes, you are right. I just checked too. I could only find covers > > that were made for specific cars on ebay (no TR's of course), but I > > wrote a vendor an email. > > Thanks > > > > On Nov 18, 2011, at 8:07 PM, Randy and Valerie DeRuiter wrote: > > > > > Not sure if there is variation on these wheels, but the outer edge > > > diameter on mine is 16.75" (just checked, its not on the car > yet!). > > > The 2.5" circumference wound up being very good as well when the > > > stitches were drawn tight. > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks Randy, I thought the dia. was 16 1/2" for the TR3(?) > > > Hans > > > > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/deruiterville at hotmail.com > From dogzbody1 at yahoo.com Sun Nov 20 06:09:40 2011 From: dogzbody1 at yahoo.com (Steve Smith) Date: Sun, 20 Nov 2011 05:09:40 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Rostyle In-Reply-To: <13C4185147E54389A7EC864FC1AB089B@trigeni.com> References: <455298307.2303446.1321558439974.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <13C4185147E54389A7EC864FC1AB089B@trigeni.com> Message-ID: <1321794580.86212.YahooMailNeo@web114703.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> You are correct, I had a few of the 73-74 Capris with them. The Capri V6 with an Ansa is about the only exhaust that rivals a TR6 in my auto history. ________________________________ From: Michael Marr To: pethier at comcast.net; Allen Hess Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, November 17, 2011 2:03 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Rostyle And, just to add to the soup, Ford used Rostyle wheels on things like Cortina GTs and (possibly) Cortina Lotuses. I have see them on Lotus Cortinas, too, but I don't know if they were OEM. Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Allen Hess" Cc: Sent: Thursday, November 17, 2011 1:33 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Rostyle > Thanks. > > My brain is starting to come around. > > There were two kinds of styled steel wheels on the MG Midgets: > > One was the Rostyle which were like the ones for the MGB, and do resemble the Rostyle wheel covers on Triumphs. http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/296019043/ > > The other was different style which apparently had no cousin in the MGB. They were used in the round-arch days, I think. THESE were the ones said to resemble the Paddy Hopkirk wheels. Maybe they themselves had something to do with Paddy Hopkirk himself. I had these with my 1966 Midget, but I'm sure they came from a later car. > > Sorry for any confusion my previous memory (or indeed, my current memory) causes. > > Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA > 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue > 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch > 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl > 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red > pethier [at] comcast [dot] net > http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier > http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk > http://www.mnautox.com > > ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "Allen Hess" >> To: triumphs at autox.team.net >> Sent: Wednesday, November 16, 2011 1:48:06 PM >> Subject: Re: [TR] Rostyle >> On Nov 16, 2011, at 2:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: >> >> > Also, I have heard that Rostyle wheels were made to resemble "Paddy >> > Hopkirk" alloy wheels, but I've never seeh a picture of "Paddy >> > Hopkirk" alloy wheels. Anyone have more info and/or a link to a >> > picture? >> > >> > Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA >> >> Found this, scroll halfway down . . . don't think they resemble >> Rostyle though. >> >> http://retrorides.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=pfsw&action=print&thread=94519 >> >> Allen Hess > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mmarr at notwires.com triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dogzbody1 at yahoo.com From mmarr at notwires.com Sun Nov 20 08:15:41 2011 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Sun, 20 Nov 2011 09:15:41 -0600 Subject: [TR] Rostyle References: <455298307.2303446.1321558439974.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <13C4185147E54389A7EC864FC1AB089B@trigeni.com> <1321794580.86212.YahooMailNeo@web114703.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1B6F83E84C44468AABDC3B4D46B5226E@trigeni.com> I always liked the Capris with the second body style, which were the 73-74s that you talked about. The 3 litre was pretty fast by the standards of those days. Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steve Smith" To: "Michael Marr" ; ; "Allen Hess" Cc: Sent: Sunday, November 20, 2011 7:09 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Rostyle You are correct, I had a few of the 73-74 Capris with them. The Capri V6 with an Ansa is about the only exhaust that rivals a TR6 in my auto history. From trguy at cfl.rr.com Sun Nov 20 09:52:08 2011 From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen) Date: Sun, 20 Nov 2011 11:52:08 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 Speedo Cable Routing Message-ID: <003501cca7a4$be16c460$3a444d20$@rr.com> Ok, I am getting old and forgot the correct routing for the speedo cable to the jtype od tranny right angle drive. The cable is attached to the speedo and runs through the firewall down through the hole and is currently running under the slave cylinder and tranny to the right angle drive. The problem is that it rests on the exhaust pipes. Isn't there supposed to be a clip attached to one of the tranny mounting screws to the rear engine that the cable runs through to keep it lifted off the exhaust?? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Jim Henningsen Maitland, FL - soon to be Ocala, FL 75 TR6 62 TR4 From tr6parts at charter.net Sun Nov 20 16:45:53 2011 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore) Date: Sun, 20 Nov 2011 18:45:53 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 Speedo Cable Routing References: <003501cca7a4$be16c460$3a444d20$@rr.com> Message-ID: <4F8A4A0A8BCF487D81F1ACFD4C94750D@Alan> It should run over the top of the tranny to the passenger side. They had a circle clip that held on the tranny and then it was a stright shot to the right angle drive. Al ----- Original Message ----- From: "James Henningsen" To: Sent: Sunday, November 20, 2011 11:52 AM Subject: [TR] TR6 Speedo Cable Routing > Ok, I am getting old and forgot the correct routing for the speedo cable > to > the jtype od tranny right angle drive. The cable is attached to the > speedo > and runs through the firewall down through the hole and is currently > running > under the slave cylinder and tranny to the right angle drive. The problem > is that it rests on the exhaust pipes. Isn't there supposed to be a clip > attached to one of the tranny mounting screws to the rear engine that the > cable runs through to keep it lifted off the exhaust?? Any help would be > appreciated. > > Thanks, > > Jim Henningsen > > Maitland, FL - soon to be Ocala, FL > > 75 TR6 > > 62 TR4 > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr6parts at charter.net From ambritts at bellsouth.net Sun Nov 20 16:51:13 2011 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Sun, 20 Nov 2011 18:51:13 -0500 Subject: [TR] Mystery Smoke Update Message-ID: Existing problem for refresher purposes are at the bottom of this email. Here is what we have determined so far: 1.. upon start up and revving of the engine a steady cloud out the back of what appears to be a mixture of blue and white smoke...mist. 2.. Spark plugs badly fouled with black soot. Carbs are running very rich. 3.. warmed car to running temp - no bubbles in the neck of the radiator or any surging when increasing rpm's. 4.. ran a compression test...results... 3rd cylinder back from the front (#4) had 75 lbs on first go. Putting a little oil in increased the pressure to 85 lbs. All other cylinders have 120 lbs. Note- adjusted the valves....intakes were lose, exhaust were tight. Number 4 cylinder pressure dropped to 65 lbs and with a little oil in the cylinder rose to 75 lbs. 5.. Rough idling...looked at the points....set correctly....however did notice a significant amount of rocking in the "moving contact breaker plate". This was not normal movement but actual rocking where the point set would actually move away from the cam. No idea if this is suppose to be this way. 6.. Took the car for a 20 mile run and returned. During the run...all evidence of the mosquito control effect was gone. Just a little blue smoke at shifting or a more significant amount after idling for a few minutes and then accelerating. 7.. Car ran/idled a little better. Should note that the points were cleaned with emery as there was some pitting. 8.. After the 20 mile run a significant amount of condensation on the front carb and 1/2 as much on the rear carb, but plenty of water droplets over the intake and carb bodies. Suspicions: 1.. Bad rings in #4 cylinder. 2.. Bad head gasket......not cracked near a water port, but possibly into the push rod well that maybe causing the high pressure causing oil vapors and drips from the engine vent tube and the valve cover cap. Also possibly causing the lower compression in #4 cylinder. 3.. Water condensation caused by extreme richness of the carbs which may be causing the carbs to run cool. 4.. no clue???????? :o) Initial plans pending the lists feedback..... 1.. pull the head and check the head gasket. 2.. If the head gasket is good, drop the oil sump and release the push rod to inspect replace rings. Basic Questions: 1.. according to the manual, the sump can be dropped without pulling the engine? 2.. any "watch out for's" in pulling the head? 3.. any club technical bulletins to read before all the above and where would they be? As always.... wide open to suggestions. Alex Manzo 59 TR3A From tony at tonydrews.com Sun Nov 20 21:50:43 2011 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sun, 20 Nov 2011 22:50:43 -0600 Subject: [TR] Mystery Smoke Update In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <20111121045055.E99371878AE@autox.team.net> No great suggestions, but a question - when you did the compression test, did you have the throttle butterflies open? If you don't open up the carbs you'll get low readings. (Don't ask me how I know... :) ) I have no clue on the moisture on the carbs / intake. But, I'd start by getting the mixture under control - if the plugs are black but sooty (not oily), try dialing back on the richness and see what happens. Check the floats too. Tony At 05:51 PM 11/20/2011, Alex wrote: >Existing problem for refresher purposes are at the bottom of this email. > >Here is what we have determined so far: > 1.. upon start up and revving of the engine a steady cloud out the back of >what appears to be a mixture of blue and white smoke...mist. > 2.. Spark plugs badly fouled with black soot. Carbs are running very rich. > 3.. warmed car to running temp - no bubbles in the neck of the radiator or >any surging when increasing rpm's. > 4.. ran a compression test...results... 3rd cylinder back from the front >(#4) had 75 lbs on first go. Putting a little oil in increased the pressure to >85 lbs. All other cylinders have 120 lbs. Note- adjusted the valves....intakes >were lose, exhaust were tight. Number 4 cylinder pressure dropped to 65 lbs >and with a little oil in the cylinder rose to 75 lbs. > 5.. Rough idling...looked at the points....set correctly....however did >notice a significant amount of rocking in the "moving contact breaker plate". >This was not normal movement but actual rocking where the point set would >actually move away from the cam. No idea if this is suppose to be this way. > 6.. Took the car for a 20 mile run and returned. During the run...all >evidence of the mosquito control effect was gone. Just a little blue smoke at >shifting or a more significant amount after idling for a few minutes and then >accelerating. > 7.. Car ran/idled a little better. Should note that the points were cleaned >with emery as there was some pitting. > 8.. After the 20 mile run a significant amount of condensation on the front >carb and 1/2 as much on the rear carb, but plenty of water droplets over the >intake and carb bodies. >Suspicions: > 1.. Bad rings in #4 cylinder. > 2.. Bad head gasket......not cracked near a water port, but possibly into >the push rod well that maybe causing the high pressure causing oil vapors and >drips from the engine vent tube and the valve cover cap. Also possibly causing >the lower compression in #4 cylinder. > 3.. Water condensation caused by extreme richness of the carbs which may be >causing the carbs to run cool. > 4.. no clue???????? :o) >Initial plans pending the lists feedback..... > 1.. pull the head and check the head gasket. > 2.. If the head gasket is good, drop the oil sump and release the push rod >to inspect replace rings. >Basic Questions: > 1.. according to the manual, the sump can be dropped without pulling the >engine? > 2.. any "watch out for's" in pulling the head? > 3.. any club technical bulletins to read before all the above and where >would they be? >As always.... wide open to suggestions. > >Alex Manzo >59 TR3A > > >triumphs at autox.team.net > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com From tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net Mon Nov 21 08:06:24 2011 From: tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net (Tomislav Marincic) Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 10:06:24 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 Speedo Cable Routing Message-ID: <000601cca85f$31d4f060$957ed120$@earthlink.net> I have a TR6 with J-type and an angle drive. I ran my cable over the top of the transmission. It's probably wrong, but it keeps it away from the exhaust and none of the bends seem too severe. Good luck. Tom All political thinking for years past has been vitiated in the same way. People can foresee the future only when it coincides with their own wishes, and the most grossly obvious facts can be ignored when they are unwelcome. George Orwell From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Mon Nov 21 13:13:26 2011 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 12:13:26 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] CA TR4A Driver with OD $2500 Message-ID: <1321906406.48617.YahooMailRC@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> If I had a more understanding wife, this would be in one of my garages today. NFI, haven't looked at it. http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/cto/2677012058.html Bill in Tehachapi From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Mon Nov 21 15:09:45 2011 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 17:09:45 -0500 Subject: [TR] Tr3 smallmouth on us1 wake forest nc Message-ID: Anyone on the list own the car that was parked on the side of the highway yesterday. I left a note with an offer to help. Pretty car. Chris From drew at graybealdesign.com Mon Nov 21 15:27:34 2011 From: drew at graybealdesign.com (Graybeal Design) Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 14:27:34 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR-6 won't run below 1500 rpm. Message-ID: <5D8052B2F77944C4A4D7B4BE192E2503@homemade> I went out to start the 6 up and although it started kind of hard, it ran fine for about a half mile and then decided to not run below 1500 rpm. The plugs all look the same (light tan) and there is fuel in the float bowls. It runs smooth and healthy above 1500 but not below. I have electronic ignition. Any suggestions? Thanks, Drew Graybeal From fishplate at charter.net Mon Nov 21 16:41:01 2011 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff) Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 18:41:01 -0500 Subject: [TR] Fwd: Re: Mystery Smoke Update In-Reply-To: <4ECAE135.7060107@charter.net> References: <4ECAE135.7060107@charter.net> Message-ID: <4ECAE18D.2000009@charter.net> Let's try again, sharing with the whole list... On 11/20/2011 11:50 PM, Tony Drews wrote: > I have no clue on the moisture on the carbs / intake. Water on the carbs would depend more on the atmospheric conditions (temperature and dew point) than it would on the richness of the carbs causing a little coolness. The carbs should be head temperature - more or less - which has more to do with the cooling system, unless you are running extremely lean. That's my theory, anyway. Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. From ambritts at bellsouth.net Mon Nov 21 17:24:38 2011 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 19:24:38 -0500 Subject: [TR] Fwd: Re: Mystery Smoke Update In-Reply-To: <4ECAE18D.2000009@charter.net> References: <4ECAE135.7060107@charter.net> <4ECAE18D.2000009@charter.net> Message-ID: <516CFB8C4C8F45EFA342EE75A4074A2D@AlexPC> Thanks Jeff, Dew point and temperature has been considered in this way. If it indeed caused the condensation problem, why then is it only on my TR3. My car has been parked next to 10 + TR3's at a show who all just drove as far as I have and my car is the only one with the issue. My car is running very rich to the point of going to a leaner needle. My carbs are like ice cube cold to the touch. Alex ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeff" To: Sent: Monday, November 21, 2011 6:41 PM Subject: [TR] Fwd: Re: Mystery Smoke Update > Let's try again, sharing with the whole list... > > > > > > > > > > > > On 11/20/2011 11:50 PM, Tony Drews wrote: >> I have no clue on the moisture on the carbs / intake. > > Water on the carbs would depend more on the atmospheric conditions > (temperature and dew point) than it would on the richness of the carbs > causing a little coolness. The carbs should be head temperature - more > or less - which has more to do with the cooling system, unless you are > running extremely lean. > > That's my theory, anyway. > > Jeff Scarbrough > Corrosion Acres, Ga. From fishplate at charter.net Mon Nov 21 19:42:21 2011 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff) Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 21:42:21 -0500 Subject: [TR] Fwd: Re: Mystery Smoke Update In-Reply-To: <516CFB8C4C8F45EFA342EE75A4074A2D@AlexPC> References: <4ECAE135.7060107@charter.net> <4ECAE18D.2000009@charter.net> <516CFB8C4C8F45EFA342EE75A4074A2D@AlexPC> Message-ID: <4ECB0C0D.7010908@charter.net> On 11/21/2011 7:24 PM, Alex wrote: > Thanks Jeff, > > Dew point and temperature has been considered in this way. If it > indeed caused the condensation problem, why then is it only on my TR3. > My car has been parked next to 10 + TR3's at a show who all just drove > as far as I have and my car is the only one with the issue. My car is > running very rich to the point of going to a leaner needle. > > My carbs are like ice cube cold to the touch. Interesting... In general, the cooling effect comes from a temperature drop associated with pressure drop...just like your air conditioner. So, it's possible that your venturi is somehow restricted... Or, excess fuel is keeping the intake air cool. But it seems to me that that would take a ~lot~ of excess fuel. I'm too lazy to drag out my Heat Transfer text, but it's a function of mass, for the most part. What kind of fuel mileage did you get on that trip? Just more thinking out loud... Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. From ambritts at bellsouth.net Mon Nov 21 19:52:11 2011 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 21:52:11 -0500 Subject: [TR] Fwd: Re: Mystery Smoke Update In-Reply-To: <4ECB0C0D.7010908@charter.net> References: <4ECAE135.7060107@charter.net> <4ECAE18D.2000009@charter.net> <516CFB8C4C8F45EFA342EE75A4074A2D@AlexPC> <4ECB0C0D.7010908@charter.net> Message-ID: <30B8C6C2EBFD494BB2DBFAAFED65776D@AlexPC> I have a good friend is suspects a venturi effect possibly causing it. He is well more versed in that type of application being an engineer, so I am deferring to his knowledge base. I'll keep the list informed on this one. But as a side note, the venturi effect made be exacerbated by the methanol in the gas. Not sure on the fuel mileage.......but my car never got great mileage because of the richness of the carbs. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeff" To: "Alex" Cc: "*Triumphs List" Sent: Monday, November 21, 2011 9:42 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Fwd: Re: Mystery Smoke Update > On 11/21/2011 7:24 PM, Alex wrote: >> Thanks Jeff, >> >> Dew point and temperature has been considered in this way. If it indeed >> caused the condensation problem, why then is it only on my TR3. My car >> has been parked next to 10 + TR3's at a show who all just drove as far as >> I have and my car is the only one with the issue. My car is running very >> rich to the point of going to a leaner needle. >> >> My carbs are like ice cube cold to the touch. > > Interesting... > > In general, the cooling effect comes from a temperature drop associated > with pressure drop...just like your air conditioner. So, it's possible > that your venturi is somehow restricted... > > Or, excess fuel is keeping the intake air cool. But it seems to me that > that would take a ~lot~ of excess fuel. I'm too lazy to drag out my Heat > Transfer text, but it's a function of mass, for the most part. What kind > of fuel mileage did you get on that trip? > > Just more thinking out loud... > > Jeff Scarbrough > Corrosion Acres, Ga. From kinderlehrer at comcast.net Mon Nov 21 20:42:36 2011 From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer) Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 22:42:36 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR-6 won't run below 1500 rpm. In-Reply-To: <5D8052B2F77944C4A4D7B4BE192E2503@homemade> References: <5D8052B2F77944C4A4D7B4BE192E2503@homemade> Message-ID: <57395B84-4300-4DE3-8D3D-289FCC94DDCE@comcast.net> What kind of electronic ignition? Sent from my iPhone On Nov 21, 2011, at 5:27 PM, "Graybeal Design" wrote: > I went out to start the 6 up and although it started kind of hard, it ran fine > for about a half mile and then decided to not run below 1500 rpm. The plugs > all look the same (light tan) and there is fuel in the float bowls. It runs > smooth and healthy above 1500 but not below. I have electronic ignition. Any > suggestions? > > Thanks, > Drew Graybeal > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/kinderlehrer at comcast.net From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Mon Nov 21 23:34:36 2011 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 22:34:36 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] TR3 Turn Signal Gremlin Message-ID: <1321943676.11294.YahooMailRC@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> This is the second time this has happened. Tonight I switched out the rear left turn signal lens on my TR3A. It is a red car and I put a yellow lens on because I think that it looks nicer. The turn signal worked fine before. I have a buzzer hooked in to the turn signal to remind me that it is on. Now the right turn signal works fine but the left makes the buzzer beep once and then gives me a weak and a little rapid turn signal without the buzzer. Last time this happened I changed out the flasher and it has worked fine for several years. It is like something in the rear turn signal causes the flasher to short out. I am thinking about adding an additional ground if I haven't already, but perhaps that is not the problem. Any suggestions? -Bill in Tehachapi From lgmtr6 at yahoo.com Tue Nov 22 03:07:39 2011 From: lgmtr6 at yahoo.com (lgmtr6) Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2011 10:07:39 +0000 Subject: [TR] CA TR4A Driver with OD $2500 In-Reply-To: <1321906406.48617.YahooMailRC@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <1321906406.48617.YahooMailRC@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: If only that were Orange county Florida... Larry Miceli Mount Dora, Florida Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry -----Original Message----- From: William Brewer Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 12:13:26 To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] CA TR4A Driver with OD $2500 If I had a more understanding wife, this would be in one of my garages today. NFI, haven't looked at it. http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/cto/2677012058.html Bill in Tehachapi triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/lgmtr6 at yahoo.com From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Tue Nov 22 05:34:05 2011 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2011 07:34:05 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Turn Signal Gremlin In-Reply-To: <1321943676.11294.YahooMailRC@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <1321943676.11294.YahooMailRC@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: My tr2 has corroded sockets. I clean them up and use conductive grease. Like it or not, I seem to replace the bulbs on the tr4 every few years due to corrosion on them. Also, presumably due to vibration, the little solder balls flatten out on the bottoms and can make poor contact, too. Then there's always the pesky grounding issue.... Chris On Nov 22, 2011 1:40 AM, "William Brewer" wrote: > This is the second time this has happened. Tonight I switched out the > rear > left turn signal lens on my TR3A. It is a red car and I put a yellow lens > on > because I think that it looks nicer. The turn signal worked fine before. I > have > a buzzer hooked in to the turn signal to remind me that it is on. Now the > right > turn signal works fine but the left makes the buzzer beep once and then > gives me > a weak and a little rapid turn signal without the buzzer. Last time this > happened I changed out the flasher and it has worked fine for several > years. It > is like something in the rear turn signal causes the flasher to short out. > I am > thinking about adding an additional ground if I haven't already, but > perhaps > that is not the problem. Any suggestions? > > -Bill in Tehachapi > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ccsimonsen at gmail.com From wbeech at flash.net Tue Nov 22 07:51:30 2011 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2011 08:51:30 -0600 Subject: [TR] CA TR4A Driver with OD $2500 In-Reply-To: <20111122101815.E09D3187877@autox.team.net> References: <1321906406.48617.YahooMailRC@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <20111122101815.E09D3187877@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <8B5F00886FCE4714908F975F2C5EFBEE@bboffice> Hey, it's a driver right? What a better way to spend your long Thanksgiving weekend. (and maybe a few extra!) Happy Thanksgiving to all! Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of lgmtr6 Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2011 4:08 AM To: William Brewer; Triumph Mailing List Subject: Re: [TR] CA TR4A Driver with OD $2500 If only that were Orange county Florida... Larry Miceli Mount Dora, Florida Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry -----Original Message----- From: William Brewer Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 12:13:26 To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] CA TR4A Driver with OD $2500 If I had a more understanding wife, this would be in one of my garages today. NFI, haven't looked at it. http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/cto/2677012058.html Bill in Tehachapi triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/lgmtr6 at yahoo.com triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From levilevi at comcast.net Tue Nov 22 09:11:35 2011 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2011 09:11:35 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Negative battery cable? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Dick, That would be a lot easier. I can honestly say that for me getting the battery ground cable bolted to the body and bell housing was the hardest thing I've ever done on my 6. What I thought was going to be a 20 minute job (traditional long braided cable) turned into hours because of the tight access for both the bolt and the nut. I must have spent an hour figuring out how to hold both in place AND having the right tools to actually pull them together. And then I could only turn it about 1/8 each time. I invented swear words that night. I deserved it though since I was fixing something that didn't need fixing. I simply wanted to go from a flat braided cable to the correct round braided cable. If anyone ever has their engine out make a note to yourself to put the battery ground cable on the housing before it goes back in. In my darkest hour it occurred to me that I might have to pull the engine to get the battery cable on right... thankfully that passed and saner moments prevailed. I could have picked an easier bolt but I didn't want the cable twisted around potentially rubbing things and of course the hole on the bottom of the cable lined up perfectly with the bolt from hell so the die was cast. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Nov 21, 2011, at 11:44 PM, Sally or Dick Taylor wrote: > Grant---It is necessary for the electrical system, including proper > battery charging, for the battery to be grounded in two places...At > the firewall (body) and at the engine block. This can be done at > less cost than using a factory style braided cable, but with a bit > more work. You can connect a 'parts house' insulated negative > battery cable from the battery to a clean bolt hole at the bell > housing. Then add a second reasonably heavy cable, like a length of > appliance wire that normally would carry 110V, from the engine block > (tapped hole at the back of the head) over to a clean spot on the > firewall. There should be tapped hole near the throttle linkage > cross shaft for this other end. If you make up this second wire/ > cable, use good, soldered "eye" terminal connections at both ends of > the wire. > > Dick > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Grant Kester > Sent: Sunday, November 20, 2011 11:36 PM > To: 6pack at autox.team.net > Cc: Grant Kester > Subject: [6pack] Negative battery cable? > > Hi List, > > Aside from the issue of remaining true to vintage parts, is there > any problem > with not using a braided negative ground battery cable in a TR6? I > want to > replace my old negative cable and was going to just use a regular > one, rather > than spending $25-30 for a braided one at Moss... > > Thanks, > Grant Kester > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/levilevi at comcast.net From sumton at sbcglobal.net Tue Nov 22 09:32:35 2011 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2011 10:32:35 -0600 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Negative battery cable? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <327458D2905F45AF8A11BEF25F3232D6@ranteer.local> there are lots of places you can put a ground cable, and can tie the body to the engine/tranny. I'm doing another car right now and there are more grounds than a starbucks on it -------------------------------------------------- From: "Bud Rolofson" Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2011 10:11 AM To: "Sally or Dick Taylor" Cc: ; <6pack at autox.team.net>; "Grant Kester" Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Negative battery cable? > Dick, > > That would be a lot easier. > > I can honestly say that for me getting the battery ground cable bolted to > the body and bell housing was the hardest thing I've ever done on my 6. > What I thought was going to be a 20 minute job (traditional long braided > cable) turned into hours because of the tight access for both the bolt > and the nut. I must have spent an hour figuring out how to hold both in > place AND having the right tools to actually pull them together. And > then I could only turn it about 1/8 each time. I invented swear words > that night. I deserved it though since I was fixing something that > didn't need fixing. I simply wanted to go from a flat braided cable to > the correct round braided cable. > > If anyone ever has their engine out make a note to yourself to put the > battery ground cable on the housing before it goes back in. In my > darkest hour it occurred to me that I might have to pull the engine to > get the battery cable on right... thankfully that passed and saner > moments prevailed. I could have picked an easier bolt but I didn't want > the cable twisted around potentially rubbing things and of course the > hole on the bottom of the cable lined up perfectly with the bolt from > hell so the die was cast. > > > Bud Rolofson From levilevi at comcast.net Tue Nov 22 10:17:32 2011 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2011 10:17:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Negative battery cable? In-Reply-To: <327458D2905F45AF8A11BEF25F3232D6@ranteer.local> References: <327458D2905F45AF8A11BEF25F3232D6@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <8EFD37AB-ACCF-498E-BF84-AF5D10605993@comcast.net> True, but only one each if you want to use the stock ground cable correctly. The grounding point holes on the cable line up with the intended bolts on the firewall and bell housing. It wasn't done willy nilly at the factory... there was obviously a plan when they manufactured the cables and I'm guessing they might have also figured out there was a few thousand other possible grounding options but chose the two they did for good reason. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Nov 22, 2011, at 9:32 AM, oliver wrote: > there are lots of places you can put a ground cable, and can tie the > body to the engine/tranny. > > I'm doing another car right now and there are more grounds than a > starbucks on it > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "Bud Rolofson" > Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2011 10:11 AM > To: "Sally or Dick Taylor" > Cc: ; <6pack at autox.team.net>; "Grant > Kester" > Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Negative battery cable? > >> Dick, >> >> That would be a lot easier. >> >> I can honestly say that for me getting the battery ground cable >> bolted to the body and bell housing was the hardest thing I've >> ever done on my 6. What I thought was going to be a 20 minute job >> (traditional long braided cable) turned into hours because of the >> tight access for both the bolt and the nut. I must have spent an >> hour figuring out how to hold both in place AND having the right >> tools to actually pull them together. And then I could only turn >> it about 1/8 each time. I invented swear words that night. I >> deserved it though since I was fixing something that didn't need >> fixing. I simply wanted to go from a flat braided cable to the >> correct round braided cable. >> >> If anyone ever has their engine out make a note to yourself to put >> the battery ground cable on the housing before it goes back in. In >> my darkest hour it occurred to me that I might have to pull the >> engine to get the battery cable on right... thankfully that passed >> and saner moments prevailed. I could have picked an easier bolt >> but I didn't want the cable twisted around potentially rubbing >> things and of course the hole on the bottom of the cable lined up >> perfectly with the bolt from hell so the die was cast. >> >> >> Bud Rolofson > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/levilevi at comcast.net From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Nov 22 11:56:56 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2011 10:56:56 -0800 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Negative battery cable? In-Reply-To: <8EFD37AB-ACCF-498E-BF84-AF5D10605993@comcast.net> References: <327458D2905F45AF8A11BEF25F3232D6@ranteer.local> <8EFD37AB-ACCF-498E-BF84-AF5D10605993@comcast.net> Message-ID: <023a01cca948$826f1840$0201a8c0@randall> > there was obviously a plan when they > manufactured the cables and I'm guessing they might have also > figured > out there was a few thousand other possible grounding options but > chose the two they did for good reason. Yes, but those reasons were probably things like saving a few cents on shorter cables, or a few seconds on the assembly line. It's not likely they have much to do with us today. -- Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Nov 22 12:26:28 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2011 11:26:28 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3 Turn Signal Gremlin In-Reply-To: <1321943676.11294.YahooMailRC@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <1321943676.11294.YahooMailRC@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <023f01cca94c$a26ec9c0$0201a8c0@randall> > Now the right > turn signal works fine but the left makes the buzzer beep > once and then gives me > a weak and a little rapid turn signal without the buzzer. Something on the left side is reducing current flow. Could be almost anywhere, but the ground for the rear lamp would be a good place to start looking. The factory ground through the mounting screws and speed nuts is far from secure, IMO, so I actually added a ground harness for all the rear lamps. Corrosion in sockets is another possibility. I find that coating them with Vaseline or lithium grease helps reduce corrosion (but makes something of a mess when changing bulbs). ISTR Jonmac eventually isolated a similar problem on Flossie to a wire that was corroded under it's insulation. As a troubleshooting technique, I suggest temporarily installing a jumper across the flasher terminals, so the lamps light steadily. Then you can more easily use a voltmeter to check the voltage at various points, like the metal part of the rear lamp holder, and the metal part of the bulb, while the bulb is lit. It also makes it much easier to see that a particular bulb is dimmer than it should be; perhaps comparing left to right. -- Randall From lgmtr6 at yahoo.com Tue Nov 22 12:41:37 2011 From: lgmtr6 at yahoo.com (lgmtr6) Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2011 19:41:37 +0000 Subject: [TR] CA TR4A Driver with OD $2500 In-Reply-To: <8B5F00886FCE4714908F975F2C5EFBEE@bboffice> References: <1321906406.48617.YahooMailRC@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <20111122101815.E09D3187877@autox.team.net> <8B5F00886FCE4714908F975F2C5EFBEE@bboffice> Message-ID: I just did that with a TR3 in Oklahoma! A rust free 58 TR3 with O/D for $2,500. Now, its a LONG way from being a driver, but I'm working on it. Larry Miceli Mount Dora, Fla Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry -----Original Message----- From: Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2011 08:51:30 To: ; 'William Brewer'; 'Triumph Mailing List' Subject: RE: [TR] CA TR4A Driver with OD $2500 Hey, it's a driver right? What a better way to spend your long Thanksgiving weekend. (and maybe a few extra!) Happy Thanksgiving to all! Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of lgmtr6 Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2011 4:08 AM To: William Brewer; Triumph Mailing List Subject: Re: [TR] CA TR4A Driver with OD $2500 If only that were Orange county Florida... Larry Miceli Mount Dora, Florida Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry -----Original Message----- From: William Brewer Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 12:13:26 To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] CA TR4A Driver with OD $2500 If I had a more understanding wife, this would be in one of my garages today. NFI, haven't looked at it. http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/cto/2677012058.html Bill in Tehachapi triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/lgmtr6 at yahoo.com triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Nov 22 13:31:18 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2011 12:31:18 -0800 Subject: [TR] Mystery Smoke Update In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <025c01cca955$b10438e0$0201a8c0@randall> Alex, IMO your first problem is to figure out what is going on with the carbs. You should not need to change the needle in order to get them as lean as you like at idle. If that is not the case, then you have a leak inside the carbs (leaking fuel into the throat) or badly worn jets/needles, or some other problem. Worn jets are a particularly nasty problem, since they change the mixture calibration curve. If you adjust the mixture at idle to compensate for the wear, then the mixture will go lean under cruise conditions, which can lead to overheating and potentially severe engine damage. I believe worn jets were the "root cause" for my Dad's TR3A swallowing a valve many years ago. Then you need to address whatever is wrong with #4. Sounds like you may already have a burned valve, possibly due to the carb problem. Last time I had a cylinder that only did 60 psi cold, the valve head looked like someone had taken a slice of pie out of it. To answer some of your questions, yes, it's fairly easy to drop the pan with the engine in the car. No need to remove the clutch slave, just back off the nuts on the support rod so you can remove the bolt through the pan and swing the rod out of the way. Lower the pan slowly, so you can maneuver it around the oil pump screen without breaking the screen. (However, the screen may be already broken.) If you suspect a leaking head gasket, it might be worth doing a check for combustion gases in the coolant before starting to disassemble. I have seen several cases where the gasket was not obviously "blown", but was leaking enough to cause problems. Note that the pan bolts are not all the same length (or at least shouldn't be). The short one goes in the front, the two long ones go at the left rear (one for the road draft tube brace, the other for the clutch slave brace). On my TR3, I found that some DPO had changed almost all of them to the wrong length, and the threads in the front hole were damaged as a result. -- Randall From ambritts at bellsouth.net Tue Nov 22 14:11:10 2011 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2011 16:11:10 -0500 Subject: [TR] Mystery Smoke Update In-Reply-To: <025c01cca955$b10438e0$0201a8c0@randall> References: <025c01cca955$b10438e0$0201a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <95D9158EA2864B76AD8EA4A5CF9C1971@AlexPC> Thanks Randall............ a lot to check this weekend...good things it's a long weekend. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "'*Triumphs List'" Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2011 3:31 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Mystery Smoke Update > Alex, > > IMO your first problem is to figure out what is going on with the carbs. > You should not need to change the needle in order to get them as lean as > you > like at idle. If that is not the case, then you have a leak inside the > carbs (leaking fuel into the throat) or badly worn jets/needles, or some > other problem. > > Worn jets are a particularly nasty problem, since they change the mixture > calibration curve. If you adjust the mixture at idle to compensate for > the > wear, then the mixture will go lean under cruise conditions, which can > lead > to overheating and potentially severe engine damage. I believe worn jets > were the "root cause" for my Dad's TR3A swallowing a valve many years ago. > > Then you need to address whatever is wrong with #4. Sounds like you may > already have a burned valve, possibly due to the carb problem. Last time > I > had a cylinder that only did 60 psi cold, the valve head looked like > someone > had taken a slice of pie out of it. > > To answer some of your questions, yes, it's fairly easy to drop the pan > with > the engine in the car. No need to remove the clutch slave, just back off > the nuts on the support rod so you can remove the bolt through the pan and > swing the rod out of the way. Lower the pan slowly, so you can maneuver > it > around the oil pump screen without breaking the screen. (However, the > screen may be already broken.) > > If you suspect a leaking head gasket, it might be worth doing a check for > combustion gases in the coolant before starting to disassemble. I have > seen > several cases where the gasket was not obviously "blown", but was leaking > enough to cause problems. > > Note that the pan bolts are not all the same length (or at least shouldn't > be). The short one goes in the front, the two long ones go at the left > rear > (one for the road draft tube brace, the other for the clutch slave brace). > On my TR3, I found that some DPO had changed almost all of them to the > wrong > length, and the threads in the front hole were damaged as a result. > > -- Randall From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk Tue Nov 22 14:36:37 2011 From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2011 21:36:37 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] Mystery Smoke Update In-Reply-To: <025c01cca955$b10438e0$0201a8c0@randall> References: <025c01cca955$b10438e0$0201a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <1321997797.76431.YahooMailNeo@web29419.mail.ird.yahoo.com> Alex As usual, Randall has given some excellent advice which is all worth following through. This comment is something of a long-shot but if you get to removing the cylinder head, I'd recommend having a thorough look around the coolant areas of the cylinder liners, especially behind #4 where it backs up to the block. While I've only owned two or three wet liner TR's a long time ago that were trouble-free, I've had far more recent exposure to the Ferguson tractor engine which, while different in many ways, does share commonalties with the TR 4 pot. The presence of 'crud' behind and around #4 cyl has caused all sorts of frustrating problems and usually this is because the many surviving examples of the TA and TE series is that because they're mostly used in comfortable outside temps, many owners literally use straight tap or rain water as a coolant. In areas where high levels of lime are present in the water supply, this leads to rapid lime build up and obviously restricted water flow which in turn brings on other problems. As I say, this is a long-shot and if you are running pure tap or rain water as your coolant, the addition of year round anti-freeze with its 'crud annihilators' would be sensible - even if you do live in a hot year round climate. Jonmac http://standard-triumph-books.co.uk/ From ambritts at bellsouth.net Tue Nov 22 14:46:08 2011 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2011 16:46:08 -0500 Subject: [TR] Mystery Smoke Update In-Reply-To: <1321997797.76431.YahooMailNeo@web29419.mail.ird.yahoo.com> References: <025c01cca955$b10438e0$0201a8c0@randall> <1321997797.76431.YahooMailNeo@web29419.mail.ird.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2E63721EC6EA4428984AE78FEEDFB234@AlexPC> Hi John, Thanks for the response. My TR3 runs antifreeze at a 50-50 mixture and has only about 5000 miles on the coolant. I will check all that you recommend. As many considerations as possible are welcomed since the head will be pulled off, once I check the carb jets. Alex ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Macartney" To: "Randall" ; "'*Triumphs List'" Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2011 4:36 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Mystery Smoke Update > Alex > > As usual, Randall has given some excellent advice which is all worth > following through. This comment is something of a long-shot but if you get > to > removing the cylinder head, I'd recommend having a thorough look around > the > coolant areas of the cylinder liners, especially behind #4 where it backs > up > to the block. While I've only owned two or three wet liner TR's a long > time > ago that were trouble-free, I've had far more recent exposure to the > Ferguson > tractor engine which, while different in many ways, does share > commonalties > with the TR 4 pot. The presence of 'crud' behind and around #4 cyl has > caused > all sorts of frustrating problems and usually this is because the many > surviving examples of the TA and TE series is that because they're mostly > used > in comfortable outside temps, many owners literally use straight tap or > rain > water as a coolant. In areas where high levels of lime are present in the > water supply, this leads to rapid lime build up and > obviously restricted water flow which in turn brings on other problems. > As I > say, this is a long-shot and if you are running pure tap or rain water as > your > coolant, the addition of year round anti-freeze with its 'crud > annihilators' > would be sensible - even if you do live in a hot year round climate. > > Jonmac From levilevi at comcast.net Wed Nov 23 00:36:40 2011 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 00:36:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Negative battery cable? In-Reply-To: <023a01cca948$826f1840$0201a8c0@randall> References: <327458D2905F45AF8A11BEF25F3232D6@ranteer.local> <8EFD37AB-ACCF-498E-BF84-AF5D10605993@comcast.net> <023a01cca948$826f1840$0201a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <9160B60D-4F93-40F2-BED0-08F781F337DC@comcast.net> On Nov 22, 2011, at 11:56 AM, Randall wrote: > things like saving a few cents on > shorter cables, or a few seconds on the assembly line. Which are both good reasons. Probably didn't have anything to do with us then either. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Nov 22, 2011, at 11:56 AM, Randall wrote: >> there was obviously a plan when they >> manufactured the cables and I'm guessing they might have also >> figured >> out there was a few thousand other possible grounding options but >> chose the two they did for good reason. > > Yes, but those reasons were probably things like saving a few cents on > shorter cables, or a few seconds on the assembly line. It's not > likely they > have much to do with us today. > > -- Randall > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Wed Nov 23 09:06:24 2011 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 10:06:24 -0600 (CST) Subject: [TR] Rear seat pattern for late TR3A/B Message-ID: <23311829.318248.1322064384259.JavaMail.root@vznit170080> I put together a template for the rear seat of the post 60k TR3. I'd like to poll a few list members that have original (hopefully) examples to make sure my description and measurements are correct. If you have one - please email me off list. After I have verified my information, I'll make it available. Thanks Car From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Wed Nov 23 11:09:03 2011 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 10:09:03 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] tr-3 carb float bowl Message-ID: <1322071743.42879.YahooMailNeo@web65313.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Does it matter if the float bowls on my SU carbs are not sitting level? I've installed a later tr-4 header which made it necessary to install a later tr-4 intake manifold which seems to not have the same attachment angle for the SU carbs as the tr-3 intake manifold did. I've noticed when I installed the carbs that the bowls now are slightly tipped. Remembering how important it is to get the float level set correctly, I'm now wondering if this off-kilter attachment will affect performance. I've never hear anyone comment on this so I assume (and hope) not. Any comments? Also on a related note. Why is the float level so crucial? It seems that as long as the petrol level is above the outlet to the carb there should be no problem whether its 1/8th of an inch from the top or 3/4 of an inch. just wondering gary n. From wbeech at flash.net Wed Nov 23 11:49:54 2011 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 12:49:54 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3A Tonneaus In-Reply-To: <517773023.1605356.1320284098451.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <517773023.1605356.1320284098451.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <330439FE-CB86-4C4A-A2F9-ECC906FD5FCF@flash.net> Yes, he is a Moss dealer but this tonneau came from a supplier in the UK. Sent from mobile Bill On Nov 2, 2011, at 8:34 PM, suhringtr36 at comcast.net wrote: > Doesn't Jeff get all of his parts from Moss? It has been a while since I bought from him, but he was an early Moss seller that always offered discounts. I know that Moss holds him accountable to deal with unhappy customers, but they are Moss parts. > > Scott Suhring > Mechanicsburg, PA > '70 TR6 > '59 TR3 > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: wbeech at flash.net > To: "William Brewer" , "Triumphs" > Sent: Wednesday, November 2, 2011 4:45:08 PM > Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Tonneaus > > Bill, > > Funny you should write at this time, I was just getting ready to send a > picture to Jeff Zorn at LBCo with this same complaint, the steering wheel > boot seems to be made for a 15" and not the standard 17" TR3 wheel. Also, > the fit is horrible, I feel like I just flushed $400, $275 + $125 > installation cost, down the hole. > > I don't like to trash anyone in a public forum but if there are others with > problems with this tonneau I am sure Jeff would like to know. > > Best regards, > Bill > > Bill Beecher > '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" > www.triumphowners.com/1566 > "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of > course, some times it is difficult to make it go" > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer > Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2011 12:10 PM > To: Triumphs > Subject: [TR] TR3A Tonneaus > > Years ago I bought a black tonneau from LBCarCo.com for my TR3A. It was > on sale at a good price. It has been on my shelf for several years. Anyway, > I opened it up to put on and am unhappy with the fit. The steering wheel > cover part of the tonneau doesn't slide all the way over the original wheel > and sticks up funny. The whole thing just doesn't look right to me, although > this may be because my old ratty tonneau has lasted for so long and I was so > used to it. > Anyone else have a similar problem with a LBC tonneau? > > Any good deals on tonneaus out there? I went on line to buy another > tonneau, but the big 3 seem to want a lot for one. > I paid $35 for my last tonneau at a impromptu swap meet at a British > car show (Ventura show ISTR). It was essentially new with no snaps > installed. I am considering taking the top to my favorite interior shop and > just having them copy it and install reinforcements where the original tore. > TIA > > Bill in Tehachapi From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Nov 23 12:40:15 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 11:40:15 -0800 Subject: [TR] tr-3 carb float bowl In-Reply-To: <1322071743.42879.YahooMailNeo@web65313.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> References: <1322071743.42879.YahooMailNeo@web65313.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <08b301ccaa17$ba451100$2ecf3300$@rr.com> > Also on a related note. Why is the > float level so crucial? It seems that as long as the petrol level is > above > the outlet to the carb there should be no problem whether its 1/8th of > an inch > from the top or 3/4 of an inch. The height in the bowl controls the nominal fuel level within the jet. If the nominal level in the jet is lower, then part of the venturi vacuum (aka depression) is used up just lifting the fuel to the edge of the jet. Hence less fuel will flow through the jet for a given depression and jet opening. Thus "float height" has a direct effect on mixture. However, the effect is not constant and so adjusting the mixture nut (which changes the opening) will not fully compensate for the fuel level being too low or too high. In other words, having the level too low (or too high) also affects the mixture calibration curve. Much too high is, of course, another problem, as it can allow fuel to dribble down the carb throat when the engine is not running, leaving a puddle in the manifold that can get sucked into the engine and lead to (or at least aggravate) hot starting problems. I don't really know, but my guess is that having the bowls slightly off level won't hurt anything enough to notice on the street. If you are going racing, you may notice that the mixture goes rich or lean in hard curves (but I'm not even sure which direction would be which). But that's just a SWAG. -- Randall From wbeech at flash.net Wed Nov 23 13:29:39 2011 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 14:29:39 -0600 Subject: [TR] tr-3 carb float bowl In-Reply-To: <1322071743.42879.YahooMailNeo@web65313.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> References: <1322071743.42879.YahooMailNeo@web65313.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Think of your float as a buffer for fuel coming into and out of the carb. Sort of like when you watching YouTube and the buffer between the download stream and what is playing. If the level is too high a change on RPM could allow for flooding before the valve shuts the flow off, too low and of course you could starve at higher loads. That said, you need to have them as level as possible for everything to work right. Bill Sent from mobile Bill On Nov 23, 2011, at 12:09 PM, Gary Nafziger wrote: > Does it matter if the float bowls on my SU carbs are not sitting level? I've > installed a later tr-4 header which made it necessary to install a later tr-4 > intake manifold which seems to not have the same attachment angle for the SU > carbs as the tr-3 intake manifold did. I've noticed when I installed the > carbs that the bowls now are slightly tipped. > > > Remembering how important it > is to get the float level set correctly, I'm now wondering if this off-kilter > attachment will affect performance. I've never hear anyone comment on this so > I assume (and hope) not. Any comments? > > Also on a related note. Why is the > float level so crucial? It seems that as long as the petrol level is above > the outlet to the carb there should be no problem whether its 1/8th of an inch > from the top or 3/4 of an inch. > > just wondering > > gary n. > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From dconnitt at fuse.net Wed Nov 23 17:11:58 2011 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 19:11:58 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4A heater restoration Message-ID: <636E93F803434AE2955053A5E759282E@DaveLaptop> So, I am in the middle of restoring the heater in my TR4A IRS and I have a couple of questions. 1. Removing rust from small fastners I just read an article on using regular vinegar to soak rust and grim off bolts. Has anybody on the list used this technique? Apparently, you just drop the screws in a cup of any kind of vinegar for a day or so and as if by magic, the rust goes away. You just rinse the parts in hot water and spray with WD40 and you are good to go. 2. The heater core had what looked like had been some type of foam rubber wrapped around the core to help hold it in position. Could I just use any type of foam rubber? One more thing.. should I seal up the inside of the enclosure to help direct the air over the core or is that not worth the effort. Thanks, and everybody enjoy tomorrow! Dave Connitt '67 TR4A IRS http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a From trguy at cfl.rr.com Wed Nov 23 18:17:13 2011 From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen) Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2011 20:17:13 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 Rear Tube Shock Conversion Kit Message-ID: <01ba01ccaa46$cc0f5010$642df030$@rr.com> Happy Thanksgiving! Has anyone had experience with Rimmer Bros TR4 tube shock conversion kit? I am considering getting one and wondered if anyone had experience with these. Thanks, Jim Henningsen Maitland, FL 75 TR6 62 TR4 From agraham at execulink.com Thu Nov 24 08:18:59 2011 From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham) Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 10:18:59 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 windshield problem Message-ID: <4ECE6063.5070305@execulink.com> Hello Listers: Happy Thanksgiving to all our American brothers. Just having installed my windshield, noticed some wiper scratch marks not visible when the windshield was off the car. The driver's side has scratches that you can detect with your fingernail; the passenger's side scratches appear as more of a 'smudge' and don"t catch your nail when running over. Has anyone tried the windshield polishing kits to get rid of these scratches? Does this polishing treatment really work? I know the headlight cover restoration kits seem to work, but they are dealing with plastic. What about glass?? Another little set back along a very long, long road.... Thanks for any help with this. Angelo Graham From yellowtr at adelphia.net Thu Nov 24 08:36:45 2011 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 10:36:45 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 windshield problem In-Reply-To: <4ECE6063.5070305@execulink.com> References: <4ECE6063.5070305@execulink.com> Message-ID: <4ECE648D.9030902@adelphia.net> Angelo, My advise would be to get a new windshield. I had the same problem on my 63 TR4 and tried to use a number of glass polish kits etc and the problem only got worse. I ended up getting a new windshield from TRF and had my local auto glass shop install it for about 80 bucks. I believe the glass was about 150 + shipping. Well worth the expense in my opinion. Bob On 11/24/2011 10:18 AM, Angelo Graham wrote: > Hello Listers: > Happy Thanksgiving to all our American brothers. > Just having installed my windshield, noticed some wiper scratch marks > not visible when the windshield was off the car. The driver's side has > scratches that you can detect with your fingernail; the passenger's > side scratches appear as more of a 'smudge' and don"t catch your nail > when running over. > Has anyone tried the windshield polishing kits to get rid of these > scratches? Does this polishing treatment really work? > I know the headlight cover restoration kits seem to work, but they are > dealing with plastic. What about glass?? > Another little set back along a very long, long road.... > Thanks for any help with this. > Angelo Graham From auprichard at uprichard.net Thu Nov 24 09:17:42 2011 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 11:17:42 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 windshield problem In-Reply-To: <4ECE648D.9030902@adelphia.net> References: <4ECE6063.5070305@execulink.com> <4ECE648D.9030902@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <113C6007F96F40D0B4DDE14860A67A92@DCH6RFC1> Installation is fairly easy if you first glue the glazing strip to the glass (and trim the corners) and then use plenty of hot soapy water to ease the glass into the frame. There's $80 saved ! Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Labuz Sent: Thursday, November 24, 2011 10:37 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR2/3 windshield problem Angelo, My advise would be to get a new windshield. I had the same problem on my 63 TR4 and tried to use a number of glass polish kits etc and the problem only got worse. I ended up getting a new windshield from TRF and had my local auto glass shop install it for about 80 bucks. I believe the glass was about 150 + shipping. Well worth the expense in my opinion. Bob On 11/24/2011 10:18 AM, Angelo Graham wrote: > Hello Listers: > Happy Thanksgiving to all our American brothers. > Just having installed my windshield, noticed some wiper scratch marks > not visible when the windshield was off the car. The driver's side has > scratches that you can detect with your fingernail; the passenger's > side scratches appear as more of a 'smudge' and don"t catch your nail > when running over. > Has anyone tried the windshield polishing kits to get rid of these > scratches? Does this polishing treatment really work? > I know the headlight cover restoration kits seem to work, but they are > dealing with plastic. What about glass?? > Another little set back along a very long, long road.... > Thanks for any help with this. > Angelo Graham triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Nov 24 10:23:18 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 09:23:18 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 windshield problem In-Reply-To: <4ECE6063.5070305@execulink.com> References: <4ECE6063.5070305@execulink.com> Message-ID: <043801ccaacd$c2940580$0201a8c0@randall> > The driver's side has > scratches that you can detect with your fingernail; Time for new glass! You probably can, with great effort, polish out the scratches. But the surface of the glass will be distorted, meaning that your view through the glass will also be distorted. Kind of like wearing someone else's glasses, when they have astigmatism. The result IMO will be even worse than having the scratches. -- Randall From n197tr4 at cs.com Thu Nov 24 12:20:31 2011 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 14:20:31 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] TR4 TUBE SHOCK CONVERSION - RATCO In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CE78F5447E1818-97C-2C351@webmail-m071.sysops.aol.com> This subject came up on the DIGEST. I know nothing about Revington's offering, but....... My 15 year old grandson installed RATCO's tube shock conversion on our vintage racing 1963 TR4. It employs a cross member to eliminate the stresses on the mounts. We know that Tony Vigliotti does a very thoughtful job of engineering and feel that this conversion is worth your consideration. Joe Alexander ************************************ From sumton at sbcglobal.net Thu Nov 24 14:14:43 2011 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 15:14:43 -0600 Subject: [TR] question about spitfires Message-ID: <893A2EB8988548AABC1787D7ECB90330@ranteer.local> sorry - just thought I'd ask if anyone knows when the front bumper of spitfires had the dual rubber thingees. I saw one on craigslist; the back bumper is plain but the front has rubber bumpers. I'm thinking that's wrong? http://dallas.craigslist.org/mdf/cto/2665325799.html From zoboherald at aol.com Thu Nov 24 14:41:34 2011 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace) Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 16:41:34 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] question about spitfires In-Reply-To: <893A2EB8988548AABC1787D7ECB90330@ranteer.local> References: <893A2EB8988548AABC1787D7ECB90330@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <8CE7908F8DB6268-1694-4A9F6@webmail-d150.sysops.aol.com> That car is correct as pictured. From 1971-73, US Spitfires had a black plastic front underrider as seen on that car. For 1974, US Spitfires got the almost "cone-shaped" rubber ones front and rear. From 1975 on, they were rubber but a bit bigger and more squared off. Those remained until the full front and rear bumper "covers" of late 1979. --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us -----Original Message----- From: oliver sorry - just thought I'd ask if anyone knows when the front bumper of spitfires had the dual rubber thingees. I saw one on craigslist; the back bumper is plain but the front has rubber bumpers. I'm thinking that's wrong? http://dallas.craigslist.org/mdf/cto/2665325799.html From mbarre at juno.com Thu Nov 24 14:48:43 2011 From: mbarre at juno.com (Matt) Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 21:48:43 GMT Subject: [TR] question about spitfires Message-ID: <20111124.164843.30577.0@webmail02.vgs.untd.com> IT looks correct to me. I had a 73 for many years. The front under riders are a very fragile plastic rather than the later heavier rubber. ---------- Original Message ---------- From: "oliver" To: Subject: [TR] question about spitfires Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 15:14:43 -0600 sorry - just thought I'd ask if anyone knows when the front bumper of spitfires had the dual rubber thingees. I saw one on craigslist; the back bumper is plain but the front has rubber bumpers. I'm thinking that's wrong? http://dallas.craigslist.org/mdf/cto/2665325799.html triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mbarre at juno.com From anabil007 at comcast.net Fri Nov 25 09:55:32 2011 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh) Date: Fri, 25 Nov 2011 08:55:32 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR6 Gauges. Message-ID: Are in the wrong place, probably because the TR6 was supposed to be right hand drive ... Sooo with left hand drive, a simple glance will show you Fuel & Amps, In order to see Temp and Oil Pressure (much more important to me), I have to peer around the steering wheel. I am guessing it is a Major project to switch positions, but am open to suggestions. Just how much work isis it?? Remember I am an Old 77 years, and don't bend well in the middle... Thanks for your time ... "Life is too short to drive Boring Cars" Bill Pugh Wallace, CA Casper 1957 TR3 TS16665L anabil007 at comcast.net From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk Fri Nov 25 10:18:20 2011 From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Fri, 25 Nov 2011 17:18:20 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] TR6 Gauges. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1322241500.53784.YahooMailNeo@web29410.mail.ird.yahoo.com> Bill, I stand to be corrected but methinks the location of instruments on the centre panel was the same for left and right hand steer versions. It's clear that just *sometimes* the Standard Motor Company applied no logic or common sense on specific issues :). Cheers, Jonmac http://standard-triumph-books.co.uk >________________________________ > From: William Pugh >To: TR3/6 >Sent: Friday, 25 November 2011, 16:55 >Subject: [TR] TR6 Gauges. > >Are in the wrong place, probably because the TR6 was supposed to be right hand >drive ... Sooo with left hand drive, a simple glance will show you Fuel & >Amps, >In order to see Temp and Oil Pressure (much more important to me), I have to >peer around the steering wheel. > >I am guessing it is a Major project to switch positions, but am open to >suggestions. Just how much work isis it?? Remember I am an Old 77 years, >and don't bend well in the middle... > > >Thanks for your time ... > > >"Life is too short to drive Boring Cars" > >Bill Pugh >Wallace, CA >Casper >1957 TR3 >TS16665L >anabil007 at comcast.net > > >triumphs at autox.team.net > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk From jwalker at mainet.com Fri Nov 25 10:18:41 2011 From: jwalker at mainet.com (John Walker) Date: Fri, 25 Nov 2011 12:18:41 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR-3B Door Seals Message-ID: <4ECF87A1020000EF0000B8B0@smtp.mainet.com> Happy Thanksgiving Listers, I'm assembling the doors for TR-3B TS 68368, and am lookingfor any info on where the various rubber seals are mounted - particularly theorientation of the seal - seal lip pointing out or in and whether the front andrear seals are mounted on the door or pillars. If you have photos, please replyoff-list. TIA, John Walker Reno, NV '62 TR-3B 80% Done, 80% to go From grandfatherjim at gmail.com Fri Nov 25 12:06:03 2011 From: grandfatherjim at gmail.com (Jim Wallace) Date: Fri, 25 Nov 2011 14:06:03 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3B door seals Message-ID: > I would like the same information so please reply on-list, or, copy me as > well as John. > Thanks, Jim > ------------------------------ > > From: "John Walker" > To: > Subject: [TR] TR-3B Door Seals > > Happy Thanksgiving Listers, > I'm assembling the doors for TR-3B TS 68368, and am lookingfor any info on > where the various rubber seals are mounted - particularly theorientation of > the seal - seal lip pointing out or in and whether the front andrear seals > are > mounted on the door or pillars. If you have photos, please replyoff-list. > TIA, John Walker > Reno, NV > '62 TR-3B > 80% Done, 80% to go > > > ------------------------------ From info at classictradespace.com Fri Nov 25 12:23:11 2011 From: info at classictradespace.com (classic trade space) Date: Fri, 25 Nov 2011 19:23:11 -0000 Subject: [TR] TR3B For Sale Message-ID: <490D4A1536A7435594D484D1E3569490@WORLDCARS> we have been offered a TR3B & a TR3 by a customer if any one on the list hasany interest in either car let me know and i will forward you the details. From mbarre at juno.com Fri Nov 25 12:28:43 2011 From: mbarre at juno.com (Matt) Date: Fri, 25 Nov 2011 19:28:43 GMT Subject: [TR] TR3B door seals Message-ID: <20111125.142843.6933.0@webmail01.vgs.untd.com> Someone used to routinely do a seminar on trimming the side screen Triumphs at the annual VTR meets. I never made that one as I didn't have a 3 at the time, but I heard they were very informative. I usually get a Bentley manual or equivalent for all my cars, but lately I haven't had to dig them out because there are some seriously good "how tos" on the net with excellent pictures and occasionally some video clips. Lately I have been working on the wife & daughters VWs (Jetta & Beetle) and the VW clubs have some excellent resources on the web. Matt ---------- Original Message ---------- From: Jim Wallace To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR3B door seals Date: Fri, 25 Nov 2011 14:06:03 -0500 > I would like the same information so please reply on-list, or, copy me as > well as John. > Thanks, Jim > ------------------------------ > > From: "John Walker" > To: > Subject: [TR] TR-3B Door Seals > > Happy Thanksgiving Listers, > I'm assembling the doors for TR-3B TS 68368, and am lookingfor any info on > where the various rubber seals are mounted - particularly theorientation of > the seal - seal lip pointing out or in and whether the front andrear seals > are > mounted on the door or pillars. If you have photos, please replyoff-list. > TIA, John Walker > Reno, NV > '62 TR-3B > 80% Done, 80% to go > > > ------------------------------ triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mbarre at juno.com From hdrider570 at att.net Fri Nov 25 12:51:23 2011 From: hdrider570 at att.net (hdrider570 at att.net) Date: Fri, 25 Nov 2011 11:51:23 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR6 Gauges. Message-ID: <4ECFF1BB.4030803@att.net> I found that changing the size of the steering wheel solved this problem for me on my TR4. I went from the standard 15" wheel to a 14" one. now the line of sight blockage falls between the gauges. Edward Hamer Petaluma Ca From trguy at cfl.rr.com Fri Nov 25 15:40:18 2011 From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen) Date: Fri, 25 Nov 2011 17:40:18 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 Part Needed Message-ID: <006601ccabc3$35934c80$a0b9e580$@rr.com> Looking for a clean used set of windshield frame brackets for a TR4. These are the brackets that mount from the inside in the foot wells near the dash and have the round tube that takes the windshield frame mounting shafts. Please contact me off line if you have a nice set you would be willing to sell. Thanks in advance and hope everyone had a nice Thanksgiving! I ran into a gentleman who purchased a new 64 TR4 after graduating college. He had to sell it two years later as his wife couldn't drive the stick. He had a original NOS Triumph Sport Owners Association badge that he bought with the car but never installed. He found it in a bag after 45 years and sold it to me. Still looks great and will look awesome on my 62 when finished. Cheers, Jim Henningsen Maitland, FL 62 TR4 75 TR6 From tr3 at roadrunner.com Fri Nov 25 16:56:34 2011 From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (Hdefer) Date: Fri, 25 Nov 2011 15:56:34 -0800 Subject: [TR] Skirted thermostats Message-ID: <1488F614-26A6-48DF-AD95-00AC30B152CC@roadrunner.com> I recently put in a new improved radiator (no crank hole) and am having a hard time getting up to anywhere near the 180 deg. temp. for my TR3A to run properly. Consequently, I have to run with the "choke" pulled out, unless the outside temp. is 80 + degrees. I have a non- skirted 180 deg. thermostat with the by-pass partially plugged as was recommended by someone from the list. This made me conclude that skirts should not only be on the fairer sex and Scotsmen but also on TR3 thermostats. Last time I checked in the Moss catalog (the only one I could find that is still selling them) the cost was $115+ with tax and shipping. Looking at the thermostat that I have, it looks like modifying it with a skirt , would be quite doable. Has anyone any info. on this? Hans TR3A From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Fri Nov 25 17:08:37 2011 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Fri, 25 Nov 2011 19:08:37 -0500 Subject: [TR] Skirted thermostats In-Reply-To: <1488F614-26A6-48DF-AD95-00AC30B152CC@roadrunner.com> References: <1488F614-26A6-48DF-AD95-00AC30B152CC@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: I blocked my bypass partially. Based on some posts on this list I think the head needs a little more flow at cold than they supply. I need to go back and do it proper but here's what I did to my bypass ...I took an old tiawan socket that just fit in the bypass hose and stuck it in. It had about a 3/8 diameter hole through it.... Seems to do the trick. On Nov 25, 2011 6:58 PM, "Hdefer" wrote: > I recently put in a new improved radiator (no crank hole) and am having a > hard time getting up to anywhere near the 180 deg. temp. for my TR3A to run > properly. Consequently, I have to run with the "choke" pulled out, unless > the outside temp. is 80 + degrees. I have a non-skirted 180 deg. thermostat > with the by-pass partially plugged as was recommended by someone from the > list. This made me conclude that skirts should not only be on the fairer > sex and Scotsmen but also on TR3 thermostats. Last time I checked in the > Moss catalog (the only one I could find that is still selling them) the > cost was $115+ with tax and shipping. Looking at the thermostat that I > have, it looks like modifying it with a skirt , would be quite doable. Has > anyone any info. on this? > Hans > TR3A > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > options/triumphs/ccsimonsen@**gmail.com From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Fri Nov 25 17:11:04 2011 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Fri, 25 Nov 2011 19:11:04 -0500 Subject: [TR] Skirted thermostats In-Reply-To: References: <1488F614-26A6-48DF-AD95-00AC30B152CC@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: Clarification ..the modern thermostats allow some flow when cold. I was worried it was not enough flow if the bypass was fully blocked off.... On Nov 25, 2011 7:08 PM, "Chris Simo" wrote: > I blocked my bypass partially. Based on some posts on this list I think > the head needs a little more flow at cold than they supply. > > I need to go back and do it proper but here's what I did to my bypass ...I > took an old tiawan socket that just fit in the bypass hose and stuck it in. > It had about a 3/8 diameter hole through it.... > > Seems to do the trick. > On Nov 25, 2011 6:58 PM, "Hdefer" wrote: > >> I recently put in a new improved radiator (no crank hole) and am having a >> hard time getting up to anywhere near the 180 deg. temp. for my TR3A to run >> properly. Consequently, I have to run with the "choke" pulled out, unless >> the outside temp. is 80 + degrees. I have a non-skirted 180 deg. thermostat >> with the by-pass partially plugged as was recommended by someone from the >> list. This made me conclude that skirts should not only be on the fairer >> sex and Scotsmen but also on TR3 thermostats. Last time I checked in the >> Moss catalog (the only one I could find that is still selling them) the >> cost was $115+ with tax and shipping. Looking at the thermostat that I >> have, it looks like modifying it with a skirt , would be quite doable. Has >> anyone any info. on this? >> Hans >> TR3A >> >> >> triumphs at autox.team.net >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.**html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** >> options/triumphs/ccsimonsen@**gmail.com From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Nov 25 18:15:59 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 25 Nov 2011 17:15:59 -0800 Subject: [TR] Skirted thermostats In-Reply-To: <1488F614-26A6-48DF-AD95-00AC30B152CC@roadrunner.com> References: <1488F614-26A6-48DF-AD95-00AC30B152CC@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: <000301ccabd8$f587b8e0$0201a8c0@randall> > This made me conclude that > skirts should not only be on the fairer sex and Scotsmen but also on > TR3 thermostats. The skirt does nothing until the thermostat opens, and then it only improves cooling (if in fact it does anything at all). So switching to a skirted thermostat will only help because your old thermostat is defective. A new $5 non-skirted thermostat will work just as well to solve your running cold problem. Someone, I think maybe it was XKs Unlimited, used to sell a thermostat which was a RobertShaw type thermostat (with an outer sleeve that moves) plus a skirt. So it should be doable yourself, if you really want to. -- Randall From tr3 at roadrunner.com Sat Nov 26 09:37:34 2011 From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (Hdefer) Date: Sat, 26 Nov 2011 08:37:34 -0800 Subject: [TR] Skirted thermostats In-Reply-To: <000301ccabd8$f587b8e0$0201a8c0@randall> References: <1488F614-26A6-48DF-AD95-00AC30B152CC@roadrunner.com> <000301ccabd8$f587b8e0$0201a8c0@randall> Message-ID: > The skirt does nothing until the thermostat opens, and then it only > improves > cooling (if in fact it does anything at all). The way I understand it, the manufacturer intended the skirt to function as a diverter valve, i.e.: 1 prior to the thermostat opening, the coolant by-passes the radiator such that it heats up quickly, but still provide sufficient flow to prevent harmful hotspot heating up of the engine. 2 When the thermostat starts opening, more coolant is diverted to the radiator until (nearly all) the coolant passes through the radiator. My concern is, that merely permanently restricting the bypass flow is likely to be more harmful in the long run during cold winters while the thermostat is closed for longer periods and then still reduces the flow through the radiator during our hot summers which so easily causes overheating in those marginal radiators. Hans. On Nov 25, 2011, at 5:15 PM, Randall wrote: >> This made me conclude that >> skirts should not only be on the fairer sex and Scotsmen but also on >> TR3 thermostats. > > The skirt does nothing until the thermostat opens, and then it only > improves > cooling (if in fact it does anything at all). So switching to a > skirted > thermostat will only help because your old thermostat is defective. > A new > $5 non-skirted thermostat will work just as well to solve your > running cold > problem. > > Someone, I think maybe it was XKs Unlimited, used to sell a > thermostat which > was a RobertShaw type thermostat (with an outer sleeve that moves) > plus a > skirt. So it should be doable yourself, if you really want to. > > -- Randall From Dave1massey at cs.com Sat Nov 26 10:04:36 2011 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sat, 26 Nov 2011 12:04:36 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Skirted thermostats Message-ID: <72dca.29e8a5b7.3c027624@cs.com> In a message dated 11/26/2011 10:37:44 AM Central Standard Time, tr3 at roadrunner.com writes: > >The skirt does nothing until the thermostat opens, and then it only > >improves > >cooling (if in fact it does anything at all). > > The way I understand it, the manufacturer intended the skirt to > function as a diverter valve, i.e.: > 1 prior to the thermostat opening, the coolant by-passes the > radiator such that it heats up quickly, but still provide sufficient > flow to prevent harmful hotspot heating up of the engine. > 2 When the thermostat starts opening, more coolant is diverted to > the radiator until (nearly all) the coolant passes through the radiator. > > My concern is, that merely permanently restricting the bypass flow is > likely to be more harmful in the long run during cold winters while > the thermostat is closed for longer periods and then still reduces the > flow through the radiator during our hot summers which so easily > causes overheating in those marginal radiators. > Hans. > I thihnk Randall's point is that skirt or no skirt, if your car is not reaching operating temperature the thermostat is either stuck open or opening too soon. Try a $5 autoparts store thermostat and see how that works. The skirt only helps if you have overheating problems. Dave From tjwakeman at gmail.com Sat Nov 26 10:05:44 2011 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Sat, 26 Nov 2011 10:05:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] Skirted thermostats In-Reply-To: References: <1488F614-26A6-48DF-AD95-00AC30B152CC@roadrunner.com> <000301ccabd8$f587b8e0$0201a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <4ED11C68.10201@gmail.com> On 11/26/11 9:37 AM, Hdefer wrote: > > The way I understand it, the manufacturer intended the skirt to > function as a diverter valve, i.e.: My take on the skirted thermostat is the subject of a web page that I have: http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/2trSite/thermostat.htm From the way people are talking I'm feeling like a thermostat horder. When I heard they were going NLA I picked up a few of them and have about 6 new originals sitting around. I wanted to be sure I always have a proper thermostat for my TR3. Teriann From fishplate at charter.net Sat Nov 26 11:52:13 2011 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff) Date: Sat, 26 Nov 2011 13:52:13 -0500 Subject: [TR] Skirted thermostats In-Reply-To: <72dca.29e8a5b7.3c027624@cs.com> References: <72dca.29e8a5b7.3c027624@cs.com> Message-ID: <4ED1355D.6060808@charter.net> On 11/26/2011 12:04 PM, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > I thihnk Randall's point is that skirt or no skirt, if your car is not > reaching operating temperature the thermostat is either stuck open or opening > too soon. Try a $5 autoparts store thermostat and see how that works. If you're too like me to do that, put some water on the stove with the thermostat in it. As the temperature rises, the thermostat should open. No magic involved... From tr3 at roadrunner.com Sat Nov 26 12:20:23 2011 From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (Hdefer) Date: Sat, 26 Nov 2011 11:20:23 -0800 Subject: [TR] Skirted thermostats In-Reply-To: <4ED11C68.10201@gmail.com> References: <1488F614-26A6-48DF-AD95-00AC30B152CC@roadrunner.com> <000301ccabd8$f587b8e0$0201a8c0@randall> <4ED11C68.10201@gmail.com> Message-ID: <324DBE0B-06DC-48B5-A412-6BA681A95711@roadrunner.com> From the website below: If a skirtless thermostat is used and the bypass blocked off there is very little to no coolant flow through the engine until the thermostat opens. Since heat cannot be quickly conducted away from the cylinders, hot spots develop. These can be hot enough to cause local boiling of the coolant into steam. The steam forces coolant back away from the hot spots letting them get even hotter. The steam can force the coolant out of the head and reach into the thermostat housing where it quickly heats the thermostat. The super hot steam forces the thermostat to fully open immediately, allowing the steam to pass into the cold coolant of the upper hose where it rapidly condenses. The now wide open thermostat allows cold coolant in the radiator to be rapidly pumped into the engine with consequent rapid cooling of the head and block. This commonly causes a cracked head and occasionally a cracked block. Thanks, TeriAnn, for that important web page. It proves and raises my concern. I wish that I had a few sitting around. I was hoping someone had successfully modified a non-skirt. I'll have to get to work on that myself. I think it's doable. I got my TR3 last year with a skirtless (and it had a cracked head!) so I only have some idea what it might look like. I would really appreciate if some close-up pics or cut-away views of the original from the list. Hans On Nov 26, 2011, at 9:05 AM, TeriAnn J. Wakeman wrote: > On 11/26/11 9:37 AM, Hdefer wrote: >> >> The way I understand it, the manufacturer intended the skirt to >> function as a diverter valve, i.e.: > > My take on the skirted thermostat is the subject of a web page that > I have: > > http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/2trSite/thermostat.htm > > From the way people are talking I'm feeling like a thermostat > horder. When I heard they were going NLA I picked up a few of them > and have about 6 new originals sitting around. I wanted to be sure > I always have a proper thermostat for my TR3. > > Teriann > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3 at roadrunner.com From tr3 at roadrunner.com Sat Nov 26 12:28:09 2011 From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (Hdefer) Date: Sat, 26 Nov 2011 11:28:09 -0800 Subject: [TR] Fwd: Skirted thermostats References: <4ED1355D.6060808@charter.net> Message-ID: <1BD5BFA1-5349-499A-95B8-E46A221B744E@roadrunner.com> > If you're too like me to do that, put some water on the stove with > the thermostat in it. You got it. Been there, done that, of course --- complete with digital test thermometer. Please, note Wakeman's reply Begin forwarded message: > From: Jeff > Date: November 26, 2011 10:52:13 AM PST > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] Skirted thermostats > > On 11/26/2011 12:04 PM, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: >> I thihnk Randall's point is that skirt or no skirt, if your car is >> not >> reaching operating temperature the thermostat is either stuck open >> or opening >> too soon. Try a $5 autoparts store thermostat and see how that >> works. > > If you're too like me to do that, put some water on the stove with > the thermostat in it. As the temperature rises, the thermostat > should open. No magic involved... > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3 at roadrunner.com From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Nov 26 13:22:36 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 26 Nov 2011 12:22:36 -0800 Subject: [TR] Skirted thermostats In-Reply-To: <324DBE0B-06DC-48B5-A412-6BA681A95711@roadrunner.com> References: <1488F614-26A6-48DF-AD95-00AC30B152CC@roadrunner.com><000301ccabd8$f587b8e0$0201a8c0@randall><4ED11C68.10201@gmail.com> <324DBE0B-06DC-48B5-A412-6BA681A95711@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: <00c701ccac79$235d7750$0201a8c0@randall> > Thanks, TeriAnn, for that important web page. It proves and > raises my concern. However, note that TeriAnn was talking about having the bypass fully blocked. I agree entirely in that case (although my personal experience has been that the results are not nearly as violent as she suggests, and I never cracked a head driving that way). However, the factory used a partially restricted bypass and no skirt on later TRactor motors, with apparently good success. And I will repeat my original point, which is that if you are having problems with the engine not coming up to temperature; then neither unblocking the bypass nor adding a skirt to the thermostat is going to help. The thermostat should be opening within just a few miles of driving, even in freezing weather. Back when I drove a TR to work in the snow, the radiator would be warm (indicating the thermostat was open) by the time I got home from work. -- Randall From cliff_hansen at earthlink.net Sat Nov 26 14:07:39 2011 From: cliff_hansen at earthlink.net (Cliff Hansen) Date: Sat, 26 Nov 2011 14:07:39 -0700 (GMT-07:00) Subject: [TR] Skirted thermostats Message-ID: <26757670.1322341659695.JavaMail.root@elwamui-muscovy.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Anyone know if the thermostat for the Ferguson TEA20 tractor is the same skirted model as for the 2-4A engine? There's a picture here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Massey-Ferguson-THERMOSTAT-180-181732M1-TE20-TO20-T030-/380342856379?_trksid=p4340.m185&_trkparms=algo%3DSIC.NPJS%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUA%26otn%3D5%26pmod%3D300526766960%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D4475226311553828576 I've never seen a "real" Triumph skirted thermostat so I don't know if the tractor part is the same or different. Cliff -----Original Message----- >From: Randall >Sent: Nov 26, 2011 1:22 PM >To: 'Triumph List' >Subject: Re: [TR] Skirted thermostats > >> Thanks, TeriAnn, for that important web page. It proves and >> raises my concern. > >However, note that TeriAnn was talking about having the bypass fully >blocked. I agree entirely in that case (although my personal experience has >been that the results are not nearly as violent as she suggests, and I never >cracked a head driving that way). > >However, the factory used a partially restricted bypass and no skirt on >later TRactor motors, with apparently good success. > >And I will repeat my original point, which is that if you are having >problems with the engine not coming up to temperature; then neither >unblocking the bypass nor adding a skirt to the thermostat is going to help. > >The thermostat should be opening within just a few miles of driving, even in >freezing weather. Back when I drove a TR to work in the snow, the radiator >would be warm (indicating the thermostat was open) by the time I got home >from work. > >-- Randall > > >triumphs at autox.team.net > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cliff_hansen at earthlink.net From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sat Nov 26 14:23:53 2011 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sat, 26 Nov 2011 15:23:53 -0600 (CST) Subject: [TR] Skirted thermostats Message-ID: <11501785.514008.1322342634080.JavaMail.root@vms170029> an example at: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Austin-Jaguar-MG-Rover-Triumph-Etc-Bellows-Thermostat-/180759043743 NFI On 11/26/11, Cliff Hansen wrote: Anyone know if the thermostat for the Ferguson TEA20 tractor is the same skirted model as for the 2-4A engine? There's a picture here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Massey-Ferguson-THERMOSTAT-180-181732M1-TE20-TO20-T030-/380342856379?_trksid=p4340.m185&_trkparms=algo%3DSIC.NPJS%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUA%26otn%3D5%26pmod%3D300526766960%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D4475226311553828576 I've never seen a "real" Triumph skirted thermostat so I don't know if the tractor part is the same or different. Cliff -----Original Message----- >From: Randall >Sent: Nov 26, 2011 1:22 PM >To: 'Triumph List' >Subject: Re: [TR] Skirted thermostats > >> Thanks, TeriAnn, for that important web page. It proves and >> raises my concern. > >However, note that TeriAnn was talking about having the bypass fully >blocked. I agree entirely in that case (although my personal experience has >been that the results are not nearly as violent as she suggests, and I never >cracked a head driving that way). > >However, the factory used a partially restricted bypass and no skirt on >later TRactor motors, with apparently good success. > >And I will repeat my original point, which is that if you are having >problems with the engine not coming up to temperature; then neither >unblocking the bypass nor adding a skirt to the thermostat is going to help. > >The thermostat should be opening within just a few miles of driving, even in >freezing weather. Back when I drove a TR to work in the snow, the radiator >would be warm (indicating the thermostat was open) by the time I got home >from work. > >-- Randall > > >triumphs at autox.team.net > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cliff_hansen at earthlink.net triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Nov 26 16:33:02 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 26 Nov 2011 15:33:02 -0800 Subject: [TR] Skirted thermostats In-Reply-To: <26757670.1322341659695.JavaMail.root@elwamui-muscovy.atl.sa.earthlink.net> References: <26757670.1322341659695.JavaMail.root@elwamui-muscovy.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <00e701ccac93$bd798710$0201a8c0@randall> > Anyone know if the thermostat for the Ferguson TEA20 tractor > is the same skirted model as for the 2-4A engine? That photo is certainly different, and I don't think would work properly in a TR thermostat housing. The wax pellet (darker brass housing in the center) needs to be on the engine side of the thermostat so it senses the water temperature inside the engine; and the TR bypass is on the same side (which is more or less where it has to be to bypass the thermostat). I could be mistaken, but I believe what appears to be the sleeve in that photo is actually the water valve, not intended to block off a bypass. I use a somewhat similar unit from Robert Shaw (when I can find them): http://i8.ebayimg.com/02/i/000/b4/50/2d53_1.JPG -- Randall From tr3 at roadrunner.com Sat Nov 26 17:20:40 2011 From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (Hdefer) Date: Sat, 26 Nov 2011 16:20:40 -0800 Subject: [TR] Skirted thermostats Message-ID: <101E0F8B-AE38-4809-A672-86E44FA99964@roadrunner.com> {Sending this the 2nd time. Not sure it got through the 1st time} > However, note that TeriAnn was talking about having the bypass fully > blocked. > Randall, is the skirt not some sort of tubular shroud that moves in and out as the therm. opens across that slotted by-pass hole? In that case it would have to be a very loose fit, (probably non contact) to prevent potential sticking of the thermostat, thus being quite incapable of fully blocking the bypass. Besides, I doubt that the thermostat works in a snap on-off fashion and that there is a range were it actually regulates an varies the flow distribution. > And I will repeat my original point, which is that if you are having > problems with the engine not coming up to temperature; > I know I didn't put this very well in my original post, but this is the scenario: a) Thermostat pan tested twice to start opening at approx. 175: and fully open at 185:. b) By-pass blocked about 65-70% c) My gage is calibrated and accurate within about +/- 5 : at the 185: dot and at the 1/2 way dot at about 150 - 160: d) On a cold morning once, of about 40:, it took at least 10 miles before my gage came up to 1/2 way dot and never made it to 185: unless i was stopped at a light for a while. Seems to me, that is too cold for an engine to run. Letting it sit and idle for a while, as expected, the needle would come up to little below the 185: mark and stay there. I recently drove it when the outside temp was 50: - 60: with the bypass completely open; the temp. came up to 180: within 2 miles and stayed there very nicely, but what if the temp. is over 100: again?! > However, the factory used a partially restricted bypass and no > skirt on > later TRactor motors, with apparently good success. > I can see that this might work for tractors that are not likely to go much over 15m/hr. On Nov 26, 2011, at 12:22 PM, Randall wrote: >> Thanks, TeriAnn, for that important web page. It proves and >> raises my concern. >> > > However, note that TeriAnn was talking about having the bypass fully > blocked. I agree entirely in that case (although my personal > experience has > been that the results are not nearly as violent as she suggests, > and I never > cracked a head driving that way). > > However, the factory used a partially restricted bypass and no > skirt on > later TRactor motors, with apparently good success. > > And I will repeat my original point, which is that if you are having > problems with the engine not coming up to temperature; then neither > unblocking the bypass nor adding a skirt to the thermostat is going > to help. > > The thermostat should be opening within just a few miles of > driving, even in > freezing weather. Back when I drove a TR to work in the snow, the > radiator > would be warm (indicating the thermostat was open) by the time I > got home > from work. > > -- Randall From drew at graybealdesign.com Sat Nov 26 17:54:20 2011 From: drew at graybealdesign.com (Graybeal Design) Date: Sat, 26 Nov 2011 16:54:20 -0800 Subject: [TR] 6 won't run below 1500 rpm revisited... Message-ID: First thing, I would like to say thanks to all those who helped me with their advice on my first inquiry. I thought I had the problem tracked down to a bad tank of gas, but that was just coincidental. What seems to make the difference now is removing the vacuum retard hose and plugging it. I don't have a timing light so I can't be sure it's just timing and not a vacuum leak in the distributor, but hose on...it runs bad...hose off...it runs good. Do I need a new distributor? Can I fix the old one? Is this really the problem? Thanks, Drew From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Nov 26 19:11:56 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 26 Nov 2011 18:11:56 -0800 Subject: [TR] 6 won't run below 1500 rpm revisited... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <011301ccaca9$f1135bd0$0201a8c0@randall> Just curious, how are you setting the timing? The vacuum retard retards the timing by around 15 degrees, so it normally produces a large reduction in idle rpm. But if you are following what many books seem to say, and setting the timing to 4 ATDC with the vacuum line disconnected, then connecting it is going to move the spark so late that the engine will hardly run. My opinion, if the vacuum retard is causing you grief, then just plug it and leave it. It wastes fuel and actually increases one pollutant, while producing only a moderate reduction in another pollutant that will biodegrade anyway. But with the line disconnected, time the ignition to around 10 or 12 BTDC, rather than the 4 ATDC given in the book. Apologies if this has already been covered in this thread, I haven't really been paying attention. -- Randall From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Nov 27 07:31:35 2011 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 27 Nov 2011 09:31:35 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] 6 won't run below 1500 rpm revisited... Message-ID: <1da.184627c0.3c03a3c7@cs.com> In a message dated 11/26/2011 6:54:31 PM Central Standard Time, drew at graybealdesign.com writes: > What seems to make the difference > now is removing the vacuum retard hose and plugging it. I don't have a > timing > light so I can't be sure it's just timing and not a vacuum leak in the > distributor, but hose on...it runs bad...hose off...it runs good. Do I > need a > new distributor? Can I fix the old one? Is this really the problem? If connecting the vacuum retard line makes the idle increase and removing it causes it to drop then I suspect you are actually connecting it to the vacuum advance module (if you car is so equipped). It's easy to get confused and the best way to determine which is which is trial and error. As I recall the 71 models still had the advance module but it was ledt unused. I reconnected mine as it tends to imprrove fuel economy (marginally). But you need the vacuum advance port on the carburettor which was not present on the 71 model carbs. But 74 and later carbs did have that port and it was used for the EGR valve. The vacuum retard system acts to stabilize the idle speed. As the idle speed picks up the vacuum will increase. This will retard the timing reducing the idle speed. As the speed reduces the vacuum will decrease advancing the timing to increase idle speed. Pretty clever. But this was important for cars required to meet emissions. Since these cars were tuned quite lean at idle maintaining a constant idle speed over varying temperatures was problematic and meeting emissions over a wide idle speed band was difficult. Since the retard module is feed from a special port on the carb that provided vacuum only when the throttle was closed it had no effect on normal driving. Dave From drew at graybealdesign.com Sun Nov 27 12:22:42 2011 From: drew at graybealdesign.com (Graybeal Design) Date: Sun, 27 Nov 2011 11:22:42 -0800 Subject: [TR] 6 won't run below 1500 rpm revisited... Message-ID: <60DCAF0C30244793943CBFC444477719@homemade> I'm new to this email list and I'm realizing that I'm going to get correspondence from you all directly, before it appears publicly. Even though I've already returned email to these suggestions, I'm going to respond here for the benefit of anyone that might find this info useful. When I mentioned that the motor wouldn't run below 1500, I meant that literally as opposed to idling at that speed. I had to manually hold the throttle open to make it run. With the suggestion Dave made, I've plugged off the vacuum retard and I'm now getting the high idle condition that Chad has referred to (suggesting a vacuum leak caused by a malfunctioning compensation valve). I've ordered the diaphragms Chad suggests and I'm going to reset my timing to 12 BTDC as Dave suggested. I think this is going to do it. In advance...thanks to all for your input. This is a very valuable mailing list. Drew From carlsereda at aol.com Sun Nov 27 14:32:46 2011 From: carlsereda at aol.com (carlsereda) Date: Sun, 27 Nov 2011 13:32:46 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR 'stats -pics In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1C7A00A4.8D34.4FD1.B4B8.53F4666D8F0F@aol.com> Hi all, TR4-A's were built with altered 'waterpump manifolds' where the bypasss port hole was cast a little smaller than for earlier TRs. The late ones I have seen have a hole opening about 3/8" as compared to earlier about 1/2". This is the time the Triumph factory substituted thermostat specs from sleeved to non-sleeved. I do have an original skirted (sleeved) thermostat, and one of the aftermarket ones (from Jags Unlimited) in a photo line-up with the thermostat housing showing their orientation. Note that the aftermarket sleeved thermostat is an off-the-shelf brass Robert Shaw unit with a custom die-cut brass sleeve silver-soldered into place. It's well done. I paid $45.00 for 10 years ago, which now are perhaps the $100.00 versions mentioned. There is a difference in how the original and aftermarket thermostats operate - the original sleeve slides toward the radiator when activated. The aftermarket sleeve slides back toward block when activated. The bypass port in the housing is situated such that it gets blocked properly with either thermostat. (as proven in my stove top exercises) If you want a photo of line-up, I can send either a jpg or pdf photo or post it somewhere. Regards, Carl '63 TR4 since '74 ps; One could save costs by simply retrofitting their pre-TR4A bypass configuration by inserting a bypass hose restrictor inside either end of the bypass hose as described at Terriann's website - if a previous owner hasn't already done it. Randall, is the skirt not some sort of tubular shroud that moves in and out as the therm. opens across that slotted by-pass hole? In that case it would have to be a very loose fit, (probably non contact) to prevent potential sticking of the thermostat, thus being quite incapable of fully blocking the bypass. Besides, I doubt that the thermostat works in a snap on-off fashion and that there is a range were it actually regulates an varies the flow distribution. From rpeglow at optonline.net Sun Nov 27 14:56:01 2011 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Sun, 27 Nov 2011 16:56:01 -0500 Subject: [TR] Skirted thermostats (sleeve?) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I remember a thermostat in my 1958 TR3 that was similar to this. That was long ago..........though. Regards, Bob http://www.britishcarforum.com/bobmuenchausen/12299.html - From ambritts at bellsouth.net Mon Nov 28 07:51:34 2011 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Mon, 28 Nov 2011 09:51:34 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A Carpet Set Message-ID: <70A716B9460E4266B9774B2D56CC2849@AlexPC> Hello All, Just a quick offer prior to listing on EBay. I have a new Roadster Factory TR3A carpet set. Item #GTCT32-Blk. Never installed. This set came with my car (restoration project) when I bought the car. I changed interior color so I have this to sell. If anyone is in need email me off list. Check TRF's price first. You will be pleased with this offer for list members, which will be different than the EBay price. I will be listing the carpet this coming weekend. 12/3 Alex Manzo 59 TR3A From grandfatherjim at gmail.com Mon Nov 28 09:29:43 2011 From: grandfatherjim at gmail.com (Jim Wallace) Date: Mon, 28 Nov 2011 11:29:43 -0500 Subject: [TR] Skirted thermostats Message-ID: Cliff, That thermostat is meant for the models of Ferguson tractor that had a Continental engine. They were fitted inside the upper rad hose, hence the shape. The TEA20 (different than the TE20) had the Standard Motor company engine, and did use a skirted thermostat, but they can't be found either. Jim ============================= From: Cliff Hansen = Anyone know if the thermostat for the Ferguson TEA20 tractor is the same skirted model as for the 2-4A engine? There's a picture here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Massey-Ferguson-THERMOSTAT-180-181732M1-TE20-TO20-T030-/380342856379?_trksid=p4340.m185&_trkparms=algo%3DSIC.NPJS%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUA%26otn%3D5%26pmod%3D300526766960%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D4475226311553828576 I've never seen a "real" Triumph skirted thermostat so I don't know if the tractor part is the same or different. Cliff From JGILLIS at tcd.ie Mon Nov 28 09:57:44 2011 From: JGILLIS at tcd.ie (John Gillis) Date: Mon, 28 Nov 2011 16:57:44 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR2 leaky banjo Message-ID: How oh how do I stop fuel leaking from the banjo joint to the float bowl on the front carb? These are the original type TR2 carbs with the rigid pipework, I did not want to use the braided flexible pipe supplied by most. Where the bolt passes through the banjo and into the float bowl lid, always drips. I have changes the fibre washers several times, I have tightened, loosened all to no avail. Is there a rubber alternative to these washers? I made up this pipework myself, by soldering new pipe to the original banjos, but I am positive the leak is around the banjo seals. Regards John John Gillis (Senior Conservator) Library Conservation TCD Electronic mail to, from or within College may be the subject of a request under the Freedom of Information Act From fogbro1 at comcast.net Mon Nov 28 11:41:38 2011 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 28 Nov 2011 18:41:38 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR2 leaky banjo In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1177098004.370048.1322505698104.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> John, Excuse me if I'm stating the obvious, but there are two different sizes of fibre washer required for that banjo fitting if they're anything like those on my MGTF of the same vintage. Smaller fits in the banjo groove and goes between the bolt and the banjo. Larger goes on banjo's flat surface beween the banjo and the float bowl. Come to think of it, the '57 Healey presently in my garage has the same arrangement. Ed Woods From arakelianp at mossmotors.com Mon Nov 28 12:35:35 2011 From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Pete Arakelian) Date: Mon, 28 Nov 2011 11:35:35 -0800 Subject: [TR] skirted thermostat Message-ID: <4D4FABA15328FC42B1AA0DEE4673548C0722B17538@DR-EX-04.datacenter.dataresolution.net> I don't mean this as a plug, just information to clear up misconceptions. The Moss thermostat that has been mentioned at 99.95 is a bellows type as original thermostat, opens at 160 degrees. It is not a standard thermostat that has had a skirt attached, but a reproduction of the original. This link should take you to a picture. http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/MoreInfo.aspx?PlateDetailID=485314&LanguageID= 1 Peter Arakelian - 71 TR6 From auprichard at uprichard.net Mon Nov 28 14:17:36 2011 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Mon, 28 Nov 2011 16:17:36 -0500 Subject: [TR] Triumph gf radio and trip cable Message-ID: <9065C956E91845E7A6CD96B259CE0779@DCH6RFC1> List: I am nearing completion of the restoration on my TR250 and am looking for 2 simple but apparently difficult-to-get items: the trip reset cable which clips into the back of the speedometer, and the knobs for a Triumph "GF" radio. If anyone has spares they are willing to part with, please contact me off-list. Many thanks! Andrew Uprichard 1962 TR3B 1968 TR250 almost done From ambritts at bellsouth.net Mon Nov 28 20:52:51 2011 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Mon, 28 Nov 2011 22:52:51 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Carpet Set Message-ID: To all who have inquired. The set was sold, thanks for your interest. As a side note, I will be putting several TR3 NOS parts up for sale and will of course offer them to the members of the list first. Thanks again.......I am glad it went to someone on the list. Alex Manzo 59 TR3A From fsz at redsa.com.ar Tue Nov 29 05:35:59 2011 From: fsz at redsa.com.ar (Fernando Sanchez Zinny) Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2011 09:35:59 -0300 Subject: [TR] water wetter Message-ID: Has anyone had any experience using a water wetter product (such as Red Line) Since the forecast for our summer is quite on the hot side I would like to know if it is advisable to pour it in your radiator or not. Thanks a lot, Fernando From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Tue Nov 29 05:46:51 2011 From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com) Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2011 07:46:51 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] water wetter Message-ID: <3d4ad.507155ce.3c062e3b@aol.com> Hi Fernando; Many have extolled the virtues of water wetter, but my experience is that it was totally ineffective when I used it in my TR3A. Having said that, if there was something not quite right with the cooling system that was causing it to run hot, then perhaps I was asking too much of the water wetter. I have since flushed the system and done some cooling system upgrades, which have cured my hot running problems. However, I can say for certain that the water wetter did not reduce the temperature of the coolant. Tim From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Nov 29 06:13:08 2011 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2011 08:13:08 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] water wetter Message-ID: <4114d.4c457357.3c063464@cs.com> In a message dated 11/29/2011 6:47:09 AM Central Standard Time, KingsCreekTrees at aol.com writes: > Many have extolled the virtues of water wetter, but my experience is that > > it was totally ineffective when I used it in my TR3A. Having said that, if > > there was something not quite right with the cooling system that was > causing > it to run hot, then perhaps I was asking too much of the water wetter. I > have since flushed the system and done some cooling system upgrades, > which > have cured my hot running problems. However, I can say for certain that > the > water wetter did not reduce the temperature of the coolant. I'm trying to think how water wetter will reduce coolant temperatures. I suppose it improves heat transfer from the coolant to the radiator tubes but won't it also improve heat transfer from the head and cylinder walls to the coolant also? That being the case it will improve the cooling of the head and cylinder walls but that isn't what is indicated by the temperature gauge. So maybe there is a benefit that just doesn't show up in the gauge reading. Or not. I've also been told that antifreeze has additives with the same properties so adding water wetter to a water/antifreeze mixture is redundant. Racers use water wetter because they run straight water - track regulations. But I agree, there is no snake oil alternative to a healthy cooling system. Dave From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Nov 29 12:18:30 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2011 11:18:30 -0800 Subject: [TR] water wetter In-Reply-To: <3d4ad.507155ce.3c062e3b@aol.com> References: <3d4ad.507155ce.3c062e3b@aol.com> Message-ID: <0ebd01ccaecb$ae95d1b0$0bc17510$@rr.com> > Many have extolled the virtues of water wetter, but my experience is > that > it was totally ineffective when I used it in my TR3A. I have had much the same experience when I was having cooling problems both with Water Wetter and its competitors (eg Hyperkuhl). And of course if the system is working properly then the coolant temperature is controlled by the thermostat, so no additive can have any effect except to make the thermostat run slightly more or less open. If you dig into the data presented by Redline, it quickly becomes clear that the main advantage comes when you use WW plus pure water, instead of a water/antifreeze mixture. I can vouch that pure water cools measurably better than water/antifreeze, but the difference is not large and only appears under specific circumstances. My opinion, it does work as advertised. But having better heat transfer between coolant and radiator will only help if that is the limiting factor. In general, I feel our radiators are big enough, and that heat transfer is limited primarily by water and/or air flow. The only time this would not apply is if you have increased engine output substantially, and are running the engine at full output for long periods of time (eg racing). YMMV, etc. -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Nov 29 12:23:22 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2011 11:23:22 -0800 Subject: [TR] water wetter In-Reply-To: <4114d.4c457357.3c063464@cs.com> References: <4114d.4c457357.3c063464@cs.com> Message-ID: <0ebe01ccaecc$5c282d00$14788700$@rr.com> > So maybe there is a benefit that just doesn't show up in the gauge > reading. I guess that depends on whether lowering cylinder temperatures is a Good Thing. From what I have read, internal combustion engines are actually more efficient running at higher temperatures (part of the reason that 'smog' engines use 195F thermostats) and that we only accept 180F as "normal" because the coolant is primarily water. -- Randall From wayne at motorcarriage.com Tue Nov 29 12:33:21 2011 From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee) Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2011 14:33:21 -0500 Subject: [TR] water wetter In-Reply-To: <0ebe01ccaecc$5c282d00$14788700$@rr.com> References: <4114d.4c457357.3c063464@cs.com> <0ebe01ccaecc$5c282d00$14788700$@rr.com> Message-ID: The temperature will still be regulated by the Thermostat. Water Wetter or not. It will just be a little more capable of reducing the temp if given access to the radiator. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Tuesday, November 29, 2011 2:23 PM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] water wetter > So maybe there is a benefit that just doesn't show up in the gauge > reading. I guess that depends on whether lowering cylinder temperatures is a Good Thing. From what I have read, internal combustion engines are actually more efficient running at higher temperatures (part of the reason that 'smog' engines use 195F thermostats) and that we only accept 180F as "normal" because the coolant is primarily water. -- Randall triumphs at autox.team.net ======= Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found. (Email Guard: 9.0.0.888, Virus/Spyware Database: 6.18790) http://www.pctools.com/ ======= From tartanredmgb at gmail.com Tue Nov 29 12:47:16 2011 From: tartanredmgb at gmail.com (tartanredmgb at gmail.com) Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2011 11:47:16 -0800 Subject: [TR] water wetter In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I have had a lot of MGs, As and Bs, and they are very prone to overheating in the summer in traffic and going up hills. I never really found a solution (pun by accident) that would lower the engine temps where I could relax and not watch the gauge on hot days. . I have Water Wetter in my British cars and I have reduced the percentage of antifreeze. The one thing that is going to hurt a cooling systems efficiency is antifreeze. So the Water Wetter is supposed to have some of the anticorrosive qualities of antifreeze and is supposed to make the coolant not form hot air bubbles in areas where there is extreme heat. I have been told that coolant recovery systems will reduce the amount of air bubbles in the coolant and thereby keep engine temps from getting as high. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Nov 29 12:48:22 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2011 11:48:22 -0800 Subject: [TR] water wetter In-Reply-To: References: <4114d.4c457357.3c063464@cs.com> <0ebe01ccaecc$5c282d00$14788700$@rr.com> Message-ID: <0ecb01ccaecf$da50e660$8ef2b320$@rr.com> > The temperature will still be regulated by the Thermostat. Water Wetter > or not. Unless, of course, it isn't. When I tried Water Wetter, the thermostat was not controlling coolant temperature. And this last time, the issue did appear to be lack of heat transfer between the coolant and radiator tubes; caused by a layer of gunk inside the tubes. The Water Wetter still did not appear to reduce coolant temperature, and certainly did not bring it down enough for the thermostat to close. -- Randall From wayne at motorcarriage.com Tue Nov 29 12:57:06 2011 From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee) Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2011 14:57:06 -0500 Subject: [TR] water wetter In-Reply-To: <0ecb01ccaecf$da50e660$8ef2b320$@rr.com> References: <4114d.4c457357.3c063464@cs.com><0ebe01ccaecc$5c282d00$14788700$@rr.com> <0ecb01ccaecf$da50e660$8ef2b320$@rr.com> Message-ID: <5E8FCBDD0D4441558E60DC486EDD0338@Engineering> But then it wouldn't would it. Whatever restriction is greater will be the regulating force. If there are no cooling system problems, then the Water and Water Wetter will also convey a more dense transfer of temperature to the thermostat, and open and close it at whatever range it is working at. I use it in my Formula Ford, because Cars are not allowed to spew anti freeze on Road Courses when something fails. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Tuesday, November 29, 2011 2:48 PM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] water wetter > The temperature will still be regulated by the Thermostat. Water Wetter > or not. Unless, of course, it isn't. When I tried Water Wetter, the thermostat was not controlling coolant temperature. And this last time, the issue did appear to be lack of heat transfer between the coolant and radiator tubes; caused by a layer of gunk inside the tubes. The Water Wetter still did not appear to reduce coolant temperature, and certainly did not bring it down enough for the thermostat to close. -- Randall triumphs at autox.team.net ======= Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found. (Email Guard: 9.0.0.888, Virus/Spyware Database: 6.18790) http://www.pctools.com/ ======= From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com Tue Nov 29 13:11:20 2011 From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2011 15:11:20 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Loose TR3A Wheel Stud Message-ID: <3b1e2.70b852bc.3c069668@aol.com> One wheel stud on our project 1960 TR3A is loose and turns in its hole in the rear axle flange. I cannot determine how to remove it: press in or pull out? It's different from my TR4A studs and may be peened over in back. How does the stud come out? Thanks! George From sumton at sbcglobal.net Tue Nov 29 13:40:53 2011 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2011 14:40:53 -0600 Subject: [TR] water wetter In-Reply-To: <0ebd01ccaecb$ae95d1b0$0bc17510$@rr.com> References: <3d4ad.507155ce.3c062e3b@aol.com> <0ebd01ccaecb$ae95d1b0$0bc17510$@rr.com> Message-ID: <797963C81D4F42D09C660D063202E7B5@ranteer.local> I think the difference water wetter makes is insignificant for everyday use - I can't speak to racing - if your system is working you won't notice it, and if its not it won't fix it From keithstewart at execulink.com Tue Nov 29 13:51:15 2011 From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart) Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2011 15:51:15 -0500 Subject: [TR] water wetter In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7DAD5561-5256-4A24-970F-EE7ED94859EE@execulink.com> On 2011-11-29, at 2:00 PM, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > > > I'm trying to think how water wetter will reduce coolant temperatures. I > suppose it improves heat transfer from the coolant to the radiator tubes but > won't it also improve heat transfer from the head and cylinder walls to the > coolant also? That being the case it will improve the cooling of the head > and cylinder walls but that isn't what is indicated by the temperature gauge. > So maybe there is a benefit that just doesn't show up in the gauge > reading. > > Or not. ISTR the claims for water wetter are to aid in the transfer of heat. I doubt it ever could show up as the coolant measuring a lower temperature because that is managed by the thermostat. The t-stat is going to open at 160, 180, 185 or whatever temperature yours is set for, regardless. So if the water wetter actually worked and sucked that heat out of the engine components faster, all that would happen is the t-stat would open sooner and allow the coolant to circulate through the rad. Again, if it is doing it's job, the heat would have to be given up more readily to the fins in the rad. Does that make sense? In order to gauge whether the water wetter was having an impact, wouldn't you have to actually measure the engine temps (not the coolant temps)? Keith R. Stewart 75 Camden Road London, Ontario N5X 2K2 Home: (519) 660-1916 E-Mail: keithstewart at execulink.com From spook01 at comcast.net Tue Nov 29 14:16:21 2011 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2011 15:16:21 -0600 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?water_wetter?= Message-ID: <20111129211621.9FF0718765B@autox.team.net> Water wetter acts by removing surface tension, allowing the water to "stick" closer to both the engine insides (reducing spot hot areas) and the radiator tubes. Thus, the water absorbs heat more efficiently, and passes it to the radiator more efficiently. Thermostat action is not effected. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Keith Stewart" To: Subject: [TR] water wetter Date: Tue, Nov 29, 2011 14:51 On 2011-11-29, at 2:00 PM, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > > > I'm trying to think how water wetter will reduce coolant temperatures. I > suppose it improves heat transfer from the coolant to the radiator tubes but > won't it also improve heat transfer from the head and cylinder walls to the > coolant also? That being the case it will improve the cooling of the head > and cylinder walls but that isn't what is indicated by the temperature gauge. > So maybe there is a benefit that just doesn't show up in the gauge > reading. > > Or not. ISTR the claims for water wetter are to aid in the transfer of heat. I doubt it ever could show up as the coolant measuring a lower temperature because that is managed by the thermostat. The t-stat is going to open at 160, 180, 185 or whatever temperature yours is set for, regardless. So if the water wetter actually worked and sucked that heat out of the engine components faster, all that would happen is the t-stat would open sooner and allow the coolant to circulate through the rad. Again, if it is doing it's job, the heat would have to be given up more readily to the fins in the rad. Does that make sense? In order to gauge whether the water wetter was having an impact, wouldn't you have to actually measure the engine temps (not the coolant temps)? Keith R. Stewart 75 Camden Road London, Ontario N5X 2K2 Home: (519) 660-1916 E-Mail: keithstewart at execulink.com triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From spook01 at comcast.net Tue Nov 29 14:18:27 2011 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2011 15:18:27 -0600 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?water_wetter?= Message-ID: <20111129211825.EC51518788E@autox.team.net> Water wetter's effect on coolant/water is less (far less) than on pure water. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Randall" To: Subject: [TR] water wetter Date: Tue, Nov 29, 2011 13:18 > Many have extolled the virtues of water wetter, but my experience is > that > it was totally ineffective when I used it in my TR3A. I have had much the same experience when I was having cooling problems both with Water Wetter and its competitors (eg Hyperkuhl). And of course if the system is working properly then the coolant temperature is controlled by the thermostat, so no additive can have any effect except to make the thermostat run slightly more or less open. If you dig into the data presented by Redline, it quickly becomes clear that the main advantage comes when you use WW plus pure water, instead of a water/antifreeze mixture. I can vouch that pure water cools measurably better than water/antifreeze, but the difference is not large and only appears under specific circumstances. My opinion, it does work as advertised. But having better heat transfer between coolant and radiator will only help if that is the limiting factor. In general, I feel our radiators are big enough, and that heat transfer is limited primarily by water and/or air flow. The only time this would not apply is if you have increased engine output substantially, and are running the engine at full output for long periods of time (eg racing). YMMV, etc. -- Randall triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk Tue Nov 29 14:33:54 2011 From: flywheelcoventry1 at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2011 21:33:54 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] Calling Jeff 'Cosmo' Kramer Message-ID: <1322602434.49542.YahooMailNeo@web29406.mail.ird.yahoo.com> Could Jeff contact me off-list please at this address? Jonmac http://standard-triumph-books.co.uk From don.hiscock at gmail.com Tue Nov 29 14:51:40 2011 From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2011 15:51:40 -0600 Subject: [TR] water wetter In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Physical chemistry was never my strongest suit, but ISTR that metals such as iron, steel, aluminum have extraordinarily high surface energies -- much, much higher than the surface tension of water. Since fluids wet a surface when their surface tension is lower than the surface energy of what they're in contact with, it would seem to me to be very hard to have water NOT wet the surface of a metal. It's hard to imagine poor enough wetting to impede heat transfer into the fluid. The pseudo-science of "improving" wetting of engine coolants to improve heat transfer has just never made sense to me from first principles. it's always been in the category of magnets to align gasoline molecules and the like. This thread is interesting, and it'll be good to see what the collective wisdom of the list is able to come up with. Don 1962 TR3B TSF202 (painted now -- over thirty years of ownership finally coming together: http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-RMmmJXX/0/L/i-RMmmJXX-L.jpg ) On Tue, Nov 29, 2011 at 6:35 AM, Fernando Sanchez Zinny wrote: > Has anyone had any experience using a water wetter product (such as Red > Line) Since the forecast for our summer is quite on the hot side I would > like to know if it is advisable to pour it in your radiator or not. > Thanks a lot, Fernando From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Nov 29 15:13:48 2011 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2011 17:13:48 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] water wetter Message-ID: <2fcc9.3b09d375.3c06b31c@cs.com> In a message dated 11/29/2011 2:51:18 PM Central Standard Time, keithstewart at execulink.com writes: > ISTR the claims for water wetter are to aid in the transfer of heat. I > doubt it ever could show up as the coolant measuring a lower temperature > because that is managed by the thermostat. The t-stat is going to open at 160, > 180, 185 or whatever temperature yours is set for, regardless. So if the > water wetter actually worked and sucked that heat out of the engine > components faster, all that would happen is the t-stat would open sooner and allow > the coolant to circulate through the rad. Again, if it is doing it's job, > the heat would have to be given up more readily to the fins in the rad. Does > that make sense? > > I was half being sarcastic but my point is that it does more than increase the heat transfer at the rejection point it increases it at the source. And if you have issues with coolant temp it is likely not due to heat transfer at those interfaces. It is no substitute for a clogged radiator or not enough air passing through it. The best snake oil solution is an electric fan. Dave From n197tr4 at cs.com Tue Nov 29 15:22:02 2011 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2011 17:22:02 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] WATER WETTER In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CE7CFC73AD03DE-748-C5FDE@Webmail-d111.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-request To: triumphs Sent: Tue, Nov 29, 2011 3:53 pm Subject: Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 255 Send Triumphs mailing list submissions to triumphs at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to triumphs-request at autox.team.net A fellow racer told me that a small amount of dishwasher soap will do the same thing as water wetter. The automatic dishwasher soap contains a chemical to eliminate 'surface tension'. Apparently this is the key ingredient. Water Wetter may contain other ingredients like lubricants and coloring, but I have no information or knowledge about that. You can reach the person managing the list at triumphs-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Triumphs digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: water wetter (Randall) 2. Re: water wetter (Randall) ************************************** From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Nov 29 17:52:58 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2011 16:52:58 -0800 Subject: [TR] Loose TR3A Wheel Stud In-Reply-To: <3b1e2.70b852bc.3c069668@aol.com> References: <3b1e2.70b852bc.3c069668@aol.com> Message-ID: <0f3e01ccaefa$67d2d870$37788950$@rr.com> > One wheel stud on our project 1960 TR3A is loose and turns in its hole > in the rear axle flange. The rear studs screw in from the face, and then get peened over on the back (like a rivet). You'll probably need to remove the half-shaft from the axle (which is far easier than removing the hub from the shaft) in order to get access to grind away the area where the stud is peened over. -- Randall From trglory at verizon.net Tue Nov 29 20:07:28 2011 From: trglory at verizon.net (Joseph Laurito) Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2011 22:07:28 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 windshield wiper wheelbox Message-ID: <011701ccaf0d$31886600$94993200$@net> Can the hard rubber wheelbox spacers under the dash be replaced without removing the heater? After 53 years, mine disintegrated and crumbled into pieces that fell on my leg while the wipers were flailing in all different directions. It was kind of humorous to watch, but at the same time I had a little tear in my eye because I knew what the result was going to be. At my age (much older than the car), I don't have any burning desire to dismantle the dash. Joe From jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com Wed Nov 30 04:42:44 2011 From: jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com (John Young) Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 03:42:44 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] (no subject) Message-ID: <1322653364.33195.yint-ygo-j2me@web81407.mail.mud.yahoo.com> ...You will be happy to know your problem can be solved easy! http://leshordeuxheureux.org/p.g.php?welucky=52j9 From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Nov 30 05:58:25 2011 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 07:58:25 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] TR3 windshield wiper wheelbox Message-ID: In a message dated 11/29/2011 9:08:25 PM Central Standard Time, trglory at verizon.net writes: > Can the hard rubber wheelbox spacers under the dash be replaced without > removing the heater? After 53 years, mine disintegrated and crumbled into > pieces that fell on my leg while the wipers were flailing in all > different > directions. It was kind of humorous to watch, but at the same time I had a > little tear in my eye because I knew what the result was going to be. At > my > age (much older than the car), I don't have any burning desire to > dismantle > the dash. > I don't think you have to remove the heater but you will have to remove the glove box. And you may have to disconnect the defroster ducts and maybe even the defroster vents themselves. Still a PITA but a lot less work than on a TR6. Dave From jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com Wed Nov 30 06:27:28 2011 From: jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com (John Young) Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 05:27:28 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <1322653364.33195.yint-ygo-j2me@web81407.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <1322653364.33195.yint-ygo-j2me@web81407.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1322659648.20197.YahooMailNeo@web81406.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Sorry all. It seems that someone has highjacked my email contacts list. I did not send this email. John Young NASS# 528 Indiana '78 Spitfire '66 Spitfire '59 TR3A (slowly getting body work) From: John Young To: stout8525 at tds.net; dadtil4d at bellsouth.net; timsering at hotmail.com; triumphs at autox.team.net; kathywright1933 at gmail.com Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2011 6:42 AM Subject: Re: [TR] (no subject) ...You will be happy to know your problem can be solved easy! http://leshordeuxheureux.org/p.g.php?welucky=52j9 triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com From lgmtr6 at yahoo.com Wed Nov 30 09:18:44 2011 From: lgmtr6 at yahoo.com (lgmtr6) Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 16:18:44 +0000 Subject: [TR] Brooklands windscreens Message-ID: How difficult is it to fit a set of Brooklands wind screens to a TR3? Larry Miceli Mount Dora, Fla Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry From pethier at comcast.net Wed Nov 30 09:21:36 2011 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 16:21:36 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <1322659648.20197.YahooMailNeo@web81406.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <233465716.437354.1322670096039.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> ----- Original Message ----- > From: "John Young" > Sorry all. It seems that someone has highjacked my email contacts > list. I did > not send this email. Let me guess: You use the address book in Microsoft Outlook. I don't use an address book in a mail program. Fingers crossed. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://www.mnautox.com From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Wed Nov 30 10:06:50 2011 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 09:06:50 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <1322653364.33195.yint-ygo-j2me@web81407.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <1322653364.33195.yint-ygo-j2me@web81407.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1322672810.59031.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> oh John! you mean you cant solve all my problems? now I'm depressed again. Frank ________________________________ From: John Young To: stout8525 at tds.net; dadtil4d at bellsouth.net; timsering at hotmail.com; triumphs at autox.team.net; kathywright1933 at gmail.com Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2011 3:42 AM Subject: Re: [TR] (no subject) ...You will be happy to know your problem can be solved easy! http:///p.g.php?welucky=52j9 triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From allegrorover at mac.com Wed Nov 30 10:21:44 2011 From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio) Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 12:21:44 -0500 Subject: [TR] Brooklands windscreens In-Reply-To: <20111130162601.48A1F1878C5@autox.team.net> References: <20111130162601.48A1F1878C5@autox.team.net> Message-ID: As far as I know there are two ways to fit them on a TR3, 1. The aftermarket Brooklands come with some stancion type mounts that screw into the body of the car, I have seen many of those type mounts 2. Some cars (mine for one) had predrilled holes with the captured nuts underneath which must have been installed at the factory as far as I know, I can't imagine anyone installing captured nut and cages after delivery. The problem with the aftermarket mounts is that you can't put the windscreen on with them installed, with the "factory mounts" you can. I personally searched for about 18 months before finding a pair of what I believe to be "factory" mounts and actually borrowed them from the owner of the car and had them reproduced You won't believe this but I actually went to the Brooklands race track in England and they had many examples of windscreens that were mounted on various cars (mostly MG's) but couldn't answer my question about "factory mounts", but it was a very interesting place with a great history. Possibly John McCartney can clarify whether the factory ever installed Brookland type windscreens on any of the cars built. If you want photos of what mine look like let me know off list Tony Cascio 58 TR3A TS27093L allegrorover at mac.com www.triumphowners.com/1489 From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Nov 30 10:31:10 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 09:31:10 -0800 Subject: [TR] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <233465716.437354.1322670096039.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <1322659648.20197.YahooMailNeo@web81406.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <233465716.437354.1322670096039.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <01c701ccaf85$d9d507f0$0201a8c0@randall> My guess is that his Yahoo email account got hacked. I've been seeing a lot of that lately. The spam appears to have come through Yahoo, from a computer somewhere in India. Which I suspect explains how it made it through the list server and my spam filters. If they had just managed to copy a contacts list, most likely the spam would come through some other server, not the same one John uses. If you want to try complaining to the spammer's ISP, here is the contact info: inetnum: 115.187.32.0 - 115.187.63.255 netname: ALLIANCEBROADBAND descr: Alliance Broadband Services Pvt. Ltd. descr: P-89, C.I.T. Road,2nd Floor descr: Kolkata descr: Pin- 700 014 descr: India country: IN person: Sk Akramul Alam nic-hdl: SA654-AP e-mail: ipadmin at alliancekolkata.com address: P-89 C.I.T Road address: 2nd Floor, address: Kolkata - 700014, India phone: +91-33-39837800 fax-no: +91-33-39829588 But since they don't even list an "abuse" address, my guess is that this ISP is a "spam haven" and any complaints will only get you more spam. -- Randall From anabil007 at comcast.net Wed Nov 30 10:44:04 2011 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh) Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 09:44:04 -0800 Subject: [TR] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <1322672810.59031.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1322653364.33195.yint-ygo-j2me@web81407.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <1322672810.59031.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: It may not solve your hacker / scammer problems, But if you will forward the offending message (make sure you choose the All Headers option) to this address, CERT phishing-report at us-cert.gov The do take action, On Nov 30, 2011, at 9:06 AM, Frank Fisher wrote: > oh John! > you mean you cant solve all my problems? > now I'm depressed again. > Frank > > > ________________________________ > From: John Young > > To: stout8525 at tds.net; dadtil4d at bellsouth.net; > timsering at hotmail.com; triumphs at autox.team.net; kathywright1933 at gmail.com > Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2011 3:42 AM > Subject: Re: [TR] (no subject) > ...You will be happy to know your problem can be solved easy! > http:///p.g.php?welucky=52j9 > > "Life is too short to drive Boring Cars" Bill Pugh Wallace, CA Casper 1957 TR3 TS16665L anabil007 at comcast.net From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Wed Nov 30 11:01:34 2011 From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com) Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 13:01:34 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Brooklands windscreens Message-ID: <409f4.43226497.3c07c97e@aol.com> As Tony has basically said, the answer is "it depends", but either way it's not difficult. Mine TR3A also had the holes pre-drilled and threaded, with bolts in them, to accept the original factory Triumph screens, which are taller than the Brooklands ones. Mine had the holes and bolts there only because the factory stopped doing this in I think 1959 and mine was built in '57. Even if yours is a later car with no holes/bolts, etc., all you really have to do, as far as I am aware, is drill the holes and install them. It'll be a bit trickier than an earlier car because you'll have to get under the dash to get the nuts on the bolts. If yours is an earlier car with the mountings installed at the factory, and if you want to fit Brooklands screens to it (and not the Triumph factory ones), you'll need a conversion kit so that the Brooklands screens will install using the factory holes. Incidentally, I have them installed on my car and I notice no difference whatsoever in terms of wind when driving. They are worse in rain, however. Tim How difficult is it to fit a set of Brooklands wind screens to a TR3? Larry Miceli Mount Dora, Fla Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/kingscreektrees at aol.com From don.hiscock at gmail.com Wed Nov 30 11:42:45 2011 From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 12:42:45 -0600 Subject: [TR] Tintin in TR2? Message-ID: Saw a promo the other day for the new Steven Speilberg/Peter Jackson movie, The Adventures of Tintin. Anybody else see the nicely digitized TR2 Tintin was driving in one scene? Don From arakelianp at mossmotors.com Wed Nov 30 12:03:39 2011 From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Pete Arakelian) Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 11:03:39 -0800 Subject: [TR] Tintin in TR2 Message-ID: <4D4FABA15328FC42B1AA0DEE4673548C0722B1756E@DR-EX-04.datacenter.dataresolution.net> >Saw a promo the other day for the new Steven Speilberg/Peter Jackson movie, The Adventures of Tintin. Anybody else see the nicely digitized TR2 Tintin was driving in one scene?< I saw the TR2, too!! Was surprised, but it looked great! Peter Arakelian From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Wed Nov 30 12:18:17 2011 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 11:18:17 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Tintin in TR2 In-Reply-To: <4D4FABA15328FC42B1AA0DEE4673548C0722B1756E@DR-EX-04.datacenter.dataresolution.net> References: <4D4FABA15328FC42B1AA0DEE4673548C0722B1756E@DR-EX-04.datacenter.dataresolution.net> Message-ID: <1322680697.29763.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> my son saw it some weeks ago and told me. i gogled and searched and looked at all the trailers on line at that time and could not find a TR2/3 closest i could find was a blue low cut door full fendered car like an 1930's MG do tell more ________________________________ From: Pete Arakelian To: "'triumphs at autox.team.net'" Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2011 11:03 AM Subject: [TR] Tintin in TR2 >Saw a promo the other day for the new Steven Speilberg/Peter Jackson movie, The Adventures of Tintin. Anybody else see the nicely digitized TR2 Tintin was driving in one scene?< I saw the TR2, too!! Was surprised, but it looked great! Peter Arakelian triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From don.hiscock at gmail.com Wed Nov 30 12:23:16 2011 From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 13:23:16 -0600 Subject: [TR] Tintin in TR2 In-Reply-To: <1322680697.29763.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <4D4FABA15328FC42B1AA0DEE4673548C0722B1756E@DR-EX-04.datacenter.dataresolution.net> <1322680697.29763.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Here's the only link I can find -- certainly not the US trailer with the TR blowing down a highway. But it does show a *very* quick glimpse of the car. Don http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?showtopic=31655 On Wed, Nov 30, 2011 at 1:18 PM, Frank Fisher wrote: > my son saw it some weeks ago and told me. > i gogled and searched and looked at > all the trailers on line at that time and could not find a TR2/3 > closest i > could find was a blue low cut door full fendered car like an 1930's MG > do tell > more > > > ________________________________ > From: Pete Arakelian > > To: "'triumphs at autox.team.net'" > > Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2011 11:03 AM > Subject: [TR] Tintin in TR2 > > >Saw a promo the other day for the new Steven > Speilberg/Peter Jackson movie, > The Adventures of Tintin. Anybody else see the > nicely digitized TR2 Tintin > was driving in one scene?< > > > I saw the TR2, too!! > Was surprised, but it looked great! > > Peter Arakelian > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Wed Nov 30 12:31:54 2011 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 11:31:54 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Tintin in TR2 In-Reply-To: References: <4D4FABA15328FC42B1AA0DEE4673548C0722B1756E@DR-EX-04.datacenter.dataresolution.net> <1322680697.29763.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1322681514.9259.YahooMailNeo@web120201.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> thanks Don i guess i owe my son an apology. i had every plan on going to see the film, having been an avid reader of the adventures when i was a child. the TR2 just makes it that much cooler ________________________________ From: Don Hiscock To: Frank Fisher Cc: Pete Arakelian ; "triumphs at autox.team.net" Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2011 11:23 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Tintin in TR2 Here's the only link I can find -- certainly not the US trailer with the TR blowing down a highway. But it does show a *very* quick glimpse of the car. Don http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?showtopic=31655 On Wed, Nov 30, 2011 at 1:18 PM, Frank Fisher wrote: my son saw it some weeks ago and told me. >i gogled and searched and looked at >all the trailers on line at that time and could not find a TR2/3 >closest i >could find was a blue low cut door full fendered car like an 1930's MG >do tell >more > > >________________________________ >From: Pete Arakelian > >To: "'triumphs at autox.team.net'" > >Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2011 11:03 AM >Subject: [TR] Tintin in TR2 > > >>Saw a promo the other day for the new Steven >Speilberg/Peter Jackson movie, >The Adventures of Tintin. Anybody else see the >nicely digitized TR2 Tintin >was driving in one scene?< > > >I saw the TR2, too!! >Was surprised, but it looked great! > >Peter Arakelian > > >triumphs at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com > > > >triumphs at autox.team.net > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com From eoot at citlink.net Wed Nov 30 13:23:34 2011 From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot) Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 15:23:34 -0500 Subject: [TR] Tintin in TR2? References: Message-ID: Goes by pretty quick, but yup...saw it. Pretty cool that they chose it. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Don Hiscock" To: "Triumphs" Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2011 1:42 PM Subject: [TR] Tintin in TR2? > Saw a promo the other day for the new Steven Speilberg/Peter Jackson > movie, The Adventures of Tintin. Anybody else see the nicely > digitized TR2 Tintin was driving in one scene? > > Don > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/eoot at citlink.net From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Wed Nov 30 13:48:49 2011 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 15:48:49 -0500 Subject: [TR] Tintin in TR2 In-Reply-To: <1322681514.9259.YahooMailNeo@web120201.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <4D4FABA15328FC42B1AA0DEE4673548C0722B1756E@DR-EX-04.datacenter.dataresolution.net> <1322680697.29763.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <1322681514.9259.YahooMailNeo@web120201.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I saw it the other day on USA TV. From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Wed Nov 30 14:11:07 2011 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 16:11:07 -0500 Subject: [TR] Tintin in TR2? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: It's on www.tintin.com. the one labelled great review. Nice clear shot From wbeech at flash.net Wed Nov 30 15:39:21 2011 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 16:39:21 -0600 Subject: [TR] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <233465716.437354.1322670096039.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <1322659648.20197.YahooMailNeo@web81406.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <233465716.437354.1322670096039.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <60545E26D2BE4D2DA7661408CCDC006D@bboffice> Have been using Outlook for 15 years, to the best of my knowledge my addresses have never been hijacked. Rule #1, keep your security software running and up to date... I would recommend McAfee. NFI, Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of pethier at comcast.net Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2011 10:22 AM To: John Young Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net; timsering at hotmail.com; kathywright1933 at gmail.com; stout8525 at tds.net; dadtil4d at bellsouth.net Subject: Re: [TR] (no subject) ----- Original Message ----- > From: "John Young" > Sorry all. It seems that > someone has highjacked my email contacts list. I did not send this > email. Let me guess: You use the address book in Microsoft Outlook. I don't use an address book in a mail program. Fingers crossed. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://www.mnautox.com triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From TR250Driver at aol.com Wed Nov 30 15:47:39 2011 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 17:47:39 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Tintin in TR2 Message-ID: <68500.4a288c7b.3c080c8b@aol.com> I saw it as well. It looked like it was BRG, right hand drive. Darrell In a message dated 11/30/2011 3:49:23 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, ccsimonsen at gmail.com writes: I saw it the other day on USA TV From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Wed Nov 30 16:32:37 2011 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 18:32:37 -0500 Subject: [TR] (no subject) References: <1322659648.20197.YahooMailNeo@web81406.mail.mud.yahoo.com><233465716.437354.1322670096039.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <60545E26D2BE4D2DA7661408CCDC006D@bboffice> Message-ID: <77E15DE7F70A45C79071AB8AEDF7AA25@userb38463fba5> Agree ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; "'John Young'" Cc: ; ; ; ; Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2011 5:39 PM Subject: Re: [TR] (no subject) > Have been using Outlook for 15 years, to the best of my knowledge my > addresses have never been hijacked. > > Rule #1, keep your security software running and up to date... I would > recommend McAfee. > > NFI, > Bill From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Wed Nov 30 18:05:57 2011 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 19:05:57 -0600 Subject: [TR] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <77E15DE7F70A45C79071AB8AEDF7AA25@userb38463fba5> References: <1322659648.20197.YahooMailNeo@web81406.mail.mud.yahoo.com><233465716.437354.1322670096039.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>, <60545E26D2BE4D2DA7661408CCDC006D@bboffice>, <77E15DE7F70A45C79071AB8AEDF7AA25@userb38463fba5> Message-ID: Somewhere I saw the suggestion to put a bogus email address at the beginning of you book.Then if someone spammed all your addresses at least one of them would bounce and you would know you had a problem. Prevention is always better than cleanup. Rich White Central, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF###L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! From ktriumph at comcast.net Wed Nov 30 20:28:06 2011 From: ktriumph at comcast.net (ktriumph at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 1 Dec 2011 03:28:06 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Tintin in TR2 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <30874482.512356.1322710086566.JavaMail.root@sz0089a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Here's another, at 0:15 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DsPQ7ZQzfiM&feature=player_embedded Ken Nuelle 58 TR3A 62 TR3B 64 TR4 69 TR6 90 XJS V12 Conv ----- Original Message ----- From: "Don Hiscock" To: "Frank Fisher" Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net, "Pete Arakelian" Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2011 2:23:16 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Tintin in TR2 Here's the only link I can find -- certainly not the US trailer with the TR blowing down a highway. B But it does show a *very* quick glimpse of the car. Don http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?showtopic=31655 On Wed, Nov 30, 2011 at 1:18 PM, Frank Fisher wrote: > my son saw it some weeks ago and told me. > i gogled and searched and looked at > all the trailers on line at that time and could not find a TR2/3 > closest i > could find was a blue low cut door full fendered car like an 1930's MG > do tell > more > > > ________________________________ > From: Pete Arakelian > > To: "'triumphs at autox.team.net'" > > Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2011 11:03 AM > Subject: [TR] Tintin in TR2 > > >Saw a promo the other day for the new Steven > Speilberg/Peter Jackson movie, > The Adventures of Tintin. B Anybody else see the > nicely digitized TR2 Tintin > was driving in one scene?< > > > I saw the TR2, too!! > Was surprised, but it looked great! > > Peter Arakelian > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ktriumph at comcast.net From tony at tonydrews.com Wed Nov 30 23:57:50 2011 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Thu, 01 Dec 2011 00:57:50 -0600 Subject: [TR] (no subject) In-Reply-To: References: <1322653364.33195.yint-ygo-j2me@web81407.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <1322672810.59031.YahooMailNeo@web120206.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20111201065811.6225918788A@autox.team.net> If it makes you feel any better, I'm a computer professional and two of my computer professional friends had the same thing happen to their Yahoo or AOL accounts over the last year. I like the idea of putting a special address in the address book. My way of avoiding that for my home account is to use Eudora as my e-mail client (who in their right mind would target THAT?), but sadly I'm going to have to find something new finally - IE 9 breaks the printing of this old faithful program. Cheers, Tony Drews At 11:44 AM 11/30/2011, William Pugh wrote: >It may not solve your hacker / scammer problems, But if you will forward the >offending message (make sure you choose the All Headers option) > to this address, CERT > > phishing-report at us-cert.gov > >The do take action, > > >On Nov 30, 2011, at 9:06 AM, Frank Fisher wrote: > > > oh John! > > you mean you cant solve all my problems? > > now I'm depressed again. > > Frank > > > > > > ________________________________ > > From: John Young > > > > To: stout8525 at tds.net; dadtil4d at bellsouth.net; > > timsering at hotmail.com; triumphs at autox.team.net; kathywright1933 at gmail.com > > Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2011 3:42 AM > > Subject: Re: [TR] (no subject) > > ...You will be happy to know your problem can be solved easy! > > http:///p.g.php?welucky=52j9 > > > > > > > >"Life is too short to drive Boring Cars" > >Bill Pugh >Wallace, CA >Casper >1957 TR3 >TS16665L >anabil007 at comcast.net > > >triumphs at autox.team.net > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com