From rolds at plausa.com Sun May 1 07:26:53 2011 From: rolds at plausa.com (Ron Olds) Date: Sun, 1 May 2011 13:26:53 +0000 Subject: [TR] Pertronix Ignition Message-ID: Hello, I recently purchased a Pertronix electronic ignition for my 72 TR6 and have a question regarding the installation. Is there supposed to a gap set between the Ignitor module and the magnet sleeve. I see it is adjustable but can't find anything on the gap setting. Thanks for the help. Ronald Olds From trglory at verizon.net Sun May 1 08:02:46 2011 From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito) Date: Sun, 01 May 2011 10:02:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] Pertronix Ignition In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <001b01cc0808$740b25f0$5c2171d0$@net> I missed that too. Look in your package and there should be a little clear plastic square that you use to gap the pickup. And make sure you have the magnet sleeve sitting squarely on the points cam. Joe Laurito -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ron Olds Sent: Sunday, May 01, 2011 9:27 AM To: Triumphs (triumphs at autox.team.net) Subject: [TR] Pertronix Ignition Hello, I recently purchased a Pertronix electronic ignition for my 72 TR6 and have a question regarding the installation. Is there supposed to a gap set between the Ignitor module and the magnet sleeve. I see it is adjustable but can't find anything on the gap setting. Thanks for the help. Ronald Olds _______________________________________________ From guy at genfiniti.com Sun May 1 08:26:10 2011 From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins) Date: Sun, 1 May 2011 09:26:10 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4A - Starter Solenoid Wiring Message-ID: <8ED3FCD7-9982-457C-A275-057DC16F7227@genfiniti.com> All, I am in the process of terminating the wiring from the Masters kit on my car, and am not really sure how to terminate the wires to the starter solenoid. My solenoid has a total of four terminals; two large, two small. The two small terminals are labeled as "S" and "I". The diagram shows five wires terminating to only three places on the solenoid: Place "A" Terminal From the positive battery terminal - provides constant potential From the "power terminal" on the "power block" - to provide constant potential to the block itself From the alternator (brown wire) - methinks output to recharge the battery Place "B" Terminal From the starter - when solenoid is closed, power flows to the starter through this wire Place "C" Terminal From the starter relay - controlled by the ignition switch. Turn the switch and power hits this terminal, closing the solenoid I am thinking that "A" and "B" are the two large terminals on the solenoid, because a bigger load means bigger terminals. (Plus, the lines on the diagram are thick.) I was also thinking that "C" will be the small terminal labeled "I" for ignition. This would leave the small "S" terminal with nothing on it. Does this sound right? Anyone else have this setup and can check for me? Any help is greatly appreciated. Cheers, Guy D. Huggins 1965 Triumph TR4A CTC 63569LO Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun May 1 09:02:21 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 1 May 2011 08:02:21 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4A - Starter Solenoid Wiring In-Reply-To: <8ED3FCD7-9982-457C-A275-057DC16F7227@genfiniti.com> References: <8ED3FCD7-9982-457C-A275-057DC16F7227@genfiniti.com> Message-ID: <04df01cc0810$c608dbb0$0301a8c0@randall> > I am thinking that "A" and "B" are the two large terminals on > the solenoid, because a bigger load means bigger terminals. That's right. > I was also thinking that "C" will be the small terminal > labeled "I" for ignition. This would leave the small "S" > terminal with nothing on it. I'm pretty sure it's the other way around. "S" gets the control from the switch (or in your case, the relay controlled by the switch); while "I" is used only on cars with external ballast resistors. To verify, use your DMM (or powered test light) to check for continuity between "S" and ground. If you find continuity (or a resistance of roughly 5 ohms), it is the coil for the solenoid. The "I" terminal I believe will show open to all other terminals until the solenoid is energized, then it will show 0 ohms to both large terminals. -- Randall From rolds at plausa.com Sun May 1 09:09:31 2011 From: rolds at plausa.com (Ron Olds) Date: Sun, 1 May 2011 15:09:31 +0000 Subject: [TR] Pertronix Ignition In-Reply-To: <001b01cc0808$740b25f0$5c2171d0$@net> References: <001b01cc0808$740b25f0$5c2171d0$@net> Message-ID: Joe, Thanks for the info. Went out and looked at the parts and in the bag with the screws and nuts was the piece of plastic for setting the module. Looks like I am ready to install it next weekend. Ronald Olds -----Original Message----- From: Joe Laurito [mailto:trglory at verizon.net] Sent: Sunday, May 01, 2011 10:03 AM To: Ron Olds; 'Triumphs' Subject: RE: [TR] Pertronix Ignition I missed that too. Look in your package and there should be a little clear plastic square that you use to gap the pickup. And make sure you have the magnet sleeve sitting squarely on the points cam. Joe Laurito From JGILLIS at tcd.ie Sun May 1 12:17:54 2011 From: JGILLIS at tcd.ie (John Gillis) Date: Sun, 1 May 2011 19:17:54 +0100 Subject: [TR] New Vitron rear seal Q Message-ID: Is it possible to fit the new type rear TR seal with the crank and con rods in place, as I have the engine out it seems opportune, but reluctant to strip the whole engine down. I also have 3 sets of spare rear aluminum housings I would be happy to donate to "the cause" Regards John 1954 TR2 From wbeech at flash.net Sun May 1 14:07:15 2011 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Sun, 1 May 2011 14:07:15 -0600 Subject: [TR] New Vitron rear seal Q In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Yes John, We just removed the bearing caps and with a rolling motion were able to pull the real of crank clear enough to change the seal. ISTR that we only loosened, not completely removed, the front cap and that gave enough to get the job done. Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Gillis Sent: Sunday, May 01, 2011 12:18 PM To: triumphs at Autox.Team.Net Subject: [TR] New Vitron rear seal Q Is it possible to fit the new type rear TR seal with the crank and con rods in place, as I have the engine out it seems opportune, but reluctant to strip the whole engine down. I also have 3 sets of spare rear aluminum housings I would be happy to donate to "the cause" Regards John 1954 TR2 _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From dmb993 at earthlink.net Sun May 1 16:51:58 2011 From: dmb993 at earthlink.net (david brady) Date: Sun, 01 May 2011 18:51:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] Recommendations for dark BRG paint codes? In-Reply-To: References: <4DBC73A6.3010208@comcast.net> <4DBC9695.6060207@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <4DBDE40E.6090408@earthlink.net> Hi Dave, I bought the ITG filter from TWM (now owned by Borla) many years ago. I've since switched to a triple weber setup with K&N's. It looks like ITG still sells the air cleaner: http://www.itgairfilters.com/ Thanks everyone for your compliments on the paint color. I've never seen an ugly color on a Ferrari! :) David Brady '68 TR250, CD8124L From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Sun May 1 17:27:47 2011 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Sun, 1 May 2011 16:27:47 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] BRG recommendations Message-ID: <654526.6227.qm@web65306.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> It's been very helpful to see various colors of BRG since I've decided to use that color for my tr-3. I'm confused about the letter appelations used to describe the color such as HEN, HNN, HGJ or whatever. How does a person use these? Can a paint dealer get the right color from those simple directions? just wondering gary n. From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Mon May 2 11:05:57 2011 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Mon, 2 May 2011 10:05:57 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Steps in doing a tune up Message-ID: <832580.60093.qm@web39403.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hi List! When I do a tune up on the Garage Queen, I first start with checking the valves & adj. them, to have them set right, because the engine is still cold. My question is: What are the steps, IN ORDER, to do an efficient tune up with a car that has points? I would like to know, from when the engine is?cold to when the engine is warmed up, the procedure?to the last step. TIA, ?-Cosmo Kramer From TRDOCTOR at aol.com Mon May 2 14:26:27 2011 From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com) Date: Mon, 2 May 2011 16:26:27 EDT Subject: [TR] Steps in doing a tune up Message-ID: <3c2b8.2bb50fe7.3af06d73@aol.com> My advice is to do the valves, points, timing, and carbs in that order. Sam Clark Green Country Triumphs In a message dated 5/2/2011 1:19:14 P.M. Central Daylight Time, triumphs-request at autox.team.net writes: From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Mon May 2 15:29:10 2011 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Mon, 2 May 2011 17:29:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] Chritian Marx Seal part 1 Message-ID: I broke this into 2 emails as I sent it but did not see it show up in the digest - sorry if it is a repost. I'm happy to say that I'm a believer in the seal. After 600 miles - I can't say the seal is leaking at all - After sitting for two weeks after a 70 mph 3 hour run I had two quarter sized drops of oil under the car. One was directly under the vent tube on the side of the engine and the other was dripping off the oil pan under the rear of the engine - might be I need to tighten up the oil pan gasket. Joe paraphased Kas and said the engine will find someplace to leak oil - wipe it down with thinner and see where it's coming from. Yesterday, I had it out for a run after an oil change and there was not a single drop of oil anywhere on the floor this afternoon!!! my timing cover seal, the rear engine seal, transmission seals, and the new pinon seal are all holding their own! Whhat a huge improvement! I was so tired of piles of cat litter and cardboard. of adding a quart of oil everytime I drove it. and parking down the block so I don't pour an oil trail down my friends driveways. I'll send another update at 1500 miles. Part 2 is more about install observations Chris 1963 TR4 From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Mon May 2 15:31:14 2011 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Mon, 2 May 2011 17:31:14 -0400 Subject: [TR] Christian Marx seal part 2 Message-ID: Install experience with the seal was good. Looked more difficult than it was. 1. Getting the parts was easy - got the parts and alignment tool from Joe Alexander and paid with Paypal. I understand the Roadster Factory also sources them. I called joe a few times with questions and he was happy to work with me. 2. Centering the clamshell scroll seal was straight forward. I got the machined clamshell scroll seal from Joe - nicely done - but since it is not the one that came off the engine some modification to the mounting holes was required to center the clamshell properly. I would not attempt install with out a centering tool. If I had my original clamshell machined locally - which is an option - the mods necessary to center the clamshelll would have been zero or minimal (my original clamshell had a few severely modified out holes on it). 3. I needed to shorten the bolts that attach the flywheel - the ends protruded and would have contacted the seal. I was very careful not to heat up these bolts while grinding them shorter - my method - hold them with my gloves - when they were too hot to hold - switch to another bolt continue until finished. 4. Scary part - Assembly and getting everything to line up - I was worried that the seal would rotate as things were bolted up. I'm not sure this was wise but I cut my notch a tad bit wider than shown in Christian's write up http://www.tr4-racing.de/download/splitseal.pdf. I marked alignment points with a silver and black sharpie. It did move during assembly but on my second attempt the marks on the lip seal were pretty close to the marks on the clamshell. With the slightly wider notch I felt comfortable that any oil can drain into the crankcase. Chris 1963 TR4 From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Mon May 2 19:52:05 2011 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Mon, 2 May 2011 18:52:05 -0700 Subject: [TR] Steps in doing a tune up In-Reply-To: <832580.60093.qm@web39403.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <832580.60093.qm@web39403.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: On 5/2/11, Cosmo Kramer wrote: > I would like to know, from when the engine is cold to when the engine is > warmed up, the procedure to the last step. My sequence (others may differ): Remove & clean the plugs Adjust the valve lash/gap Inspect & Set the points gap (this must be done before the next step) Set the timing (static, to be adjusted later on the road) Install the plugs Sync the carbs -- All of the above can be done with a cold engine, as you sync the carbs the engine has a chance to warm up Adjust the mixture, mostly by ear though I have a colortune Drive, evaluate mixture (plug color) and timing (listen for pinging). Of course throughout you are inspecting plug wires, connections, rotor, cap etc to confirm all looks well. Geo From ebuzzmiller at comcast.net Mon May 2 22:02:06 2011 From: ebuzzmiller at comcast.net (Eric Miller) Date: Tue, 03 May 2011 04:02:06 -0000 Subject: [TR] Recommendations for dark BRG paint codes? In-Reply-To: <4DBC73A6.3010208@comcast.net> References: <4DBC73A6.3010208@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4E38C829.1040201@comcast.net> I had a private request for more info on the BRG I chose for my 4A, so I thought I would share it with all. The info I received from the e-type owner who had just painted his car was that it was code HDJ, Line 22, Auxcode jbc 254. It was Glasurit Acrylic Polyurethane. I'm pretty sure, but not positive (it was 9 years ago) that I took this info to my local paint store and they mixed up PPG to match. I don't have the original can so I don't have any PPG info, unfortunately. -Eric Miller On 4/30/2011 1:40 PM, Eric Miller wrote: > I was a couple weeks away from painting my 4A and saw the perfect BRG > color on an e-type. The owner told me it was HDJ, so went with it. > It's little darker than my 4a's original color. Absolutely love how > it turned out. > > Here's a pic: http://i.imgur.com/fHaii.jpg > > -Eric Miller > > On 4/27/2011 9:44 AM, Don Hiscock wrote: >> As my TR3B (TSF202L) gets closer to being on the road than it has for >> almost >> thirty years, it's time to think about paint. I'd like best >> recommendations >> from the list for paint codes for the early Jaguar dark British Racing >> Green. >> >> The later green, code HEN, is dark, but a little lighter than my >> memory of >> the earlier ones. I'm changing the color from it's original Signal Red, >> which took some thought, but green it's gonna be. >> >> Here's where it stood a couple of months ago, after we "modified" the >> shell >> to let the seat go back a little bit farther for this six foot six >> driver. >> It's mostly in primer now. Target: Driving by its 50th birthday >> on April >> 12, 2012. >> http://www.smugmug.com/photos/1143349206_tshwV-L.jpg >> >> TIA, >> >> Don >> Saint Louis >> _______________________________________________ >> Triumphs at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $11.47 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Manage your account: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ebuzzmiller at comcast.net >> >> > From tedtsimx at bright.net Tue May 3 06:21:01 2011 From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher) Date: Tue, 03 May 2011 08:21:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] Steps in doing a tune up In-Reply-To: <832580.60093.qm@web39403.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <832580.60093.qm@web39403.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4DBFF32D.9010108@bright.net> Cosmo and list.First step in a tune-up is a compression check. If a cylinder is down,no matter how good th tune-up, yo can't compensate for loss of power in a cylinder. Ted On 5/2/2011 1:05 PM, Cosmo Kramer wrote: > Hi List! > > When I do a tune up on the Garage Queen, I first start with checking the valves > & adj. them, to have them set right, because the engine is still cold. > > My question is: > What are the steps, IN ORDER, to do an efficient tune up with a car that has > points? > > I would like to know, from when the engine is cold to when the engine is warmed > up, the procedure to the last step. TIA, > -Cosmo Kramer > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tedtsimx at bright.net > > -- Ted Schumacher tedtsimx at bright.net http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com 108 S. Jefferson St. Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877 Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.) Phone: 800.543.6648 (US& Canada) Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022 From rbtr3a at cox.net Tue May 3 07:05:42 2011 From: rbtr3a at cox.net (ronnie babbitt) Date: Tue, 3 May 2011 13:05:42 +0000 Subject: [TR] Oil light Message-ID: My sports six, which has a gt6 engine. Recently the oil light has started coming on more frequently as it idles. The idle speed has not changed, it is full of fresh oil, Castrol 20-50. everything seems ok, just strange that the light has begun lighting all of a sudden. any ideas asto why? Ronnie Babbitt From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue May 3 07:38:19 2011 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 3 May 2011 09:38:19 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Oil light Message-ID: In a message dated 5/3/2011 8:33:24 AM Central Daylight Time, rbtr3a at cox.net writes: > My sports six, which has a gt6 engine. Recently the oil light has started > coming on more frequently as it idles. The idle speed has not changed, it > is full of fresh oil, Castrol 20-50. everything seems ok, just strange that > the light has begun lighting all of a sudden. > > any ideas asto why? > Hi, Ronnie, Two possible reasons: 1) Switch gone bad 2) low oil pressure. The thing to do now is to hook up an oil pressure gauge (does a GT6 have a gauge?) and see what the pressure is at idle. I have seen two switches go bad turning on the light when the pressure is fine so let's hope for the best. Dave From zoboherald at aol.com Tue May 3 07:57:25 2011 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace) Date: Tue, 3 May 2011 09:57:25 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Oil light In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CDD7B129D74BB5-1750-771C@webmail-m022.sysops.aol.com> Ronnie, I'd hook up an oil pressure gauge at least temporarily, if only to confirm what I suspect: that your oil pressure light sender is dying. Check it closely, as it might even be weeping a bit. I just went through the same thing with my Herald 1200 (down to the Castrol 20W-50)! --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us -----Original Message----- From: ronnie babbitt My sports six, which has a gt6 engine. Recently the oil light has started coming on more frequently as it idles. The idle speed has not changed, it is full of fresh oil, Castrol 20-50. everything seems ok, just strange that the light has begun lighting all of a sudden. any ideas asto why? From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Tue May 3 08:11:56 2011 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net) Date: Tue, 3 May 2011 10:11:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] Oil light Message-ID: <380-22011523141156350@M2W136.mail2web.com> Sounds to me as though the bearings , probably mains and rods are starting to wear out - might be a good time to replace before damage occurs - If you were to put an oil gauge on it you would find almost no oil pressure at idle (which is why the light is coming on, and lower than normal pressure at speed - Do you notice any slight rod bearing knocking when under load? Barry Original Message: ----------------- From: ronnie babbitt rbtr3a at cox.net Date: Tue, 3 May 2011 13:05:42 +0000 To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Oil light My sports six, which has a gt6 engine. Recently the oil light has started coming on more frequently as it idles. The idle speed has not changed, it is full of fresh oil, Castrol 20-50. everything seems ok, just strange that the light has begun lighting all of a sudden. any ideas asto why? Ronnie Babbitt _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/v6spitfireguy at cox.net -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web.com - Microsoft? Exchange solutions from a leading provider - http://link.mail2web.com/Business/Exchange From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Tue May 3 08:57:36 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 3 May 2011 07:57:36 -0700 Subject: [TR] Oil light In-Reply-To: <8CDD7B129D74BB5-1750-771C@webmail-m022.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CDD7B129D74BB5-1750-771C@webmail-m022.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <00cb01cc09a2$712edbb0$0301a8c0@randall> > Ronnie, I'd hook up an oil pressure gauge at least > temporarily, Ditto. As noted, could be any of worn bearings, worn oil pump, or just a bad sender. After a similar experience years ago (on a non-LBC), I keep an aftermarket mechanical gauge just to double-check what the dash gauge (or idiot light) is telling me. In my case, the sender was the only problem, even after a professional shop had pronounced the engine worn out (and not worth rebuilding). Of course I didn't discover that until after I had dropped the pan (which involved removing part of the frame & front suspension on that car) and found that both the oil pump & bearings were fine. Even fixing the loose oil pickup didn't help the symptoms. Also taught me to not necessarily believe what a "professional" tells me. Had I followed his advice, I would have scrapped a perfectly usable car (which went on to cover another 150,000 miles without ever having the pan off again). -- Randall From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com Tue May 3 09:12:59 2011 From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 3 May 2011 11:12:59 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Carlisle Import Weekend Message-ID: <1fef1.6090636f.3af1757b@aol.com> As with Ed Woods, I/we will be manning flea market areas B66 thru B69 at Carlisle Import Weekend. No fermented beverages there, but stop and say Hello. We have lots of British stuff, Triumph and other. George Haynes From aljlthomson at charter.net Tue May 3 09:41:28 2011 From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex&Janet Thomson) Date: Tue, 3 May 2011 11:41:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] Oil light References: Message-ID: <5B307DD4757C413C8A6F5F4CEEA02783@D6254Z51> Ron - Don't panic yet. Plumb in a good quality mechanical gauge along with the current oil light sending unit to see what the oil pressure is really like. A gauge with a 270 sweep and a top end reading of 100 psi should do it. Now you can compare actual values to the book recommendations and see what's next. Wish for a bad oil pressure sending unit! I was horrified when I had "0" psi on a 120 H.P. Deere farm tractor. A new sending unit restored the pressure back to 60 psi. Alex Thomson ----- Original Message ----- From: "ronnie babbitt" To: "triumphs2 TRlist" Sent: Tuesday, May 03, 2011 9:05 AM Subject: [TR] Oil light > > My sports six, which has a gt6 engine. Recently the oil light has started > coming on more frequently as it idles. The idle speed has not changed, it > is full of fresh oil, Castrol 20-50. everything seems ok, just strange > that the light has begun lighting all of a sudden. > > any ideas asto why? > > Ronnie Babbitt > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Manage your account: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net > > From trglory at verizon.net Tue May 3 12:12:10 2011 From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito) Date: Tue, 03 May 2011 14:12:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] I finally did it Message-ID: <004b01cc09bd$9f919950$deb4cbf0$@net> Well, it took me 53 years to accomplish the task but I finally broke the capillary tube on the TR3a water temperature gauge. I do remember seeing look-alike electric versions of this unit. Anybody know the source for the gauge and the sender? Joe Laurito From aljlthomson at charter.net Tue May 3 13:16:07 2011 From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex&Janet Thomson) Date: Tue, 3 May 2011 15:16:07 -0400 Subject: [TR] I finally did it References: <004b01cc09bd$9f919950$deb4cbf0$@net> Message-ID: <2A3FEA68B1A04C5698A83D75D3D573C2@D6254Z51> - Have you tried Nisongers for either repairs or replacement? http://www.nisonger.com/ Alex Thomson ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Laurito" To: "Triumphs List" Sent: Tuesday, May 03, 2011 2:12 PM Subject: [TR] I finally did it > Well, it took me 53 years to accomplish the task but I finally broke the > capillary tube on the TR3a water temperature gauge. I do remember seeing > look-alike electric versions of this unit. Anybody know the source for the > gauge and the sender? > > Joe Laurito > > > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Manage your account: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net > > From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue May 3 13:18:38 2011 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 3 May 2011 15:18:38 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] I finally did it Message-ID: <3471c.6fa3dffa.3af1af0d@cs.com> In a message dated 5/3/2011 1:41:22 PM Central Daylight Time, trglory at verizon.net writes: > Well, it took me 53 years to accomplish the task but I finally broke the > capillary tube on the TR3a water temperature gauge. I do remember seeing > look-alike electric versions of this unit. Anybody know the source for the > gauge and the sender? > That would be an early TR4 unit. From before they switched to flat glass. Try Moss motors or call TRF. Dave From anabil007 at comcast.net Tue May 3 13:24:45 2011 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Tue, 3 May 2011 12:24:45 -0700 Subject: [TR] I finally did it In-Reply-To: <004b01cc09bd$9f919950$deb4cbf0$@net> References: <004b01cc09bd$9f919950$deb4cbf0$@net> Message-ID: These folks have them ... $59.00 ... read the fine print ... http://www.gaugeguys.com/Smiths/classic.htm >Well, it took me 53 years to accomplish the task but I finally broke the >capillary tube on the TR3a water temperature gauge. I do remember seeing >look-alike electric versions of this unit. Anybody know the source for the >gauge and the sender? > >Joe Laurito -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue May 3 13:45:25 2011 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 3 May 2011 15:45:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] I finally did it In-Reply-To: <004b01cc09bd$9f919950$deb4cbf0$@net> References: <004b01cc09bd$9f919950$deb4cbf0$@net> Message-ID: I bunch of us 6-Pack guys have been using West Valley Instruments out in California (http://westvalleyinstruments.com/) Besides doing excellent work, they quote a price and a delivery time and meet it. I had my Speedo & Tach rebuilt/calibrated by them and it took 10 days door to door. Call and ask for Morris and explain what you need done. Morris is the guy you need to talk to. Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 1975 TR6 with: Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff & CVJs -----Original Message----- From: Joe Laurito Sent: Tuesday, May 03, 2011 2:12 PM To: Triumphs List Subject: [TR] I finally did it Well, it took me 53 years to accomplish the task but I finally broke the capillary tube on the TR3a water temperature gauge. I do remember seeing look-alike electric versions of this unit. Anybody know the source for the gauge and the sender? Joe Laurito _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue May 3 14:46:08 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 3 May 2011 13:46:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] I finally did it In-Reply-To: <3471c.6fa3dffa.3af1af0d@cs.com> References: <3471c.6fa3dffa.3af1af0d@cs.com> Message-ID: <066101cc09d3$219b5840$64d208c0$@rr.com> > That would be an early TR4 unit. From before they switched to flat > glass. > Try Moss motors or call TRF. Or eBay. Don't forget that the TR4 gauge requires a voltage stabilizer as well. Personally, I think I'm going back to the capillary tube style, at least for now. I just don't trust the electrical gauge (or my homebrew electronic voltage stabilizer); and I'm beginning to think it may be part of my perceived overheating problem. It's either that, or my electric fan thermostat is erratic. -- Randall From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Tue May 3 17:02:25 2011 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Tue, 3 May 2011 16:02:25 -0700 Subject: [TR] Oil light In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I got one of these from Harbor Freight -- http://www.harborfreight.com/engine-oil-pressure-tester-92687.html At about 7 bucks with the usual 20% off coupon it sure beats wondering if sender units & stock gauges are telling the truth. From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Tue May 3 17:11:11 2011 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Tue, 3 May 2011 16:11:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] I finally did it In-Reply-To: <004b01cc09bd$9f919950$deb4cbf0$@net> References: <004b01cc09bd$9f919950$deb4cbf0$@net> Message-ID: On Tue, May 3, 2011 at 11:12 AM, Joe Laurito wrote: > Well, it took me 53 years to accomplish the task but I finally broke the > capillary tube on the TR3a water temperature gauge. I have seen (but not yet tried) a technique for replacing the cap tube (and its ether content). There are several sites on the web that describe this -- here is one: http://www.ply33.com/Repair/tempgauge Geo From trglory at verizon.net Tue May 3 18:20:37 2011 From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito) Date: Tue, 03 May 2011 20:20:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] I finally did it In-Reply-To: References: <004b01cc09bd$9f919950$deb4cbf0$@net> Message-ID: <00a701cc09f1$1acc59b0$50650d10$@net> Thanks Geo, I really not in the mood to do this but, at the present time, my options appear to be quite limited. Joe Laurito From: Geo Hahn [mailto:ahwahneetr at gmail.com] Sent: Tuesday, May 03, 2011 7:11 PM To: Joe Laurito Cc: Triumphs List Subject: Re: [TR] I finally did it On Tue, May 3, 2011 at 11:12 AM, Joe Laurito wrote: Well, it took me 53 years to accomplish the task but I finally broke the capillary tube on the TR3a water temperature gauge. ? I have seen (but not yet tried) a technique for replacing the cap tube (and its ether content).? There are several sites on the web that describe this -- here is one: ? http://www.ply33.com/Repair/tempgauge ? Geo From trglory at verizon.net Tue May 3 19:26:58 2011 From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito) Date: Tue, 03 May 2011 21:26:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] I finally did it In-Reply-To: <0B0DBB41-B3A1-40C2-B1A5-968DBFBCBC15@roadrunner.com> References: <004b01cc09bd$9f919950$deb4cbf0$@net> <0B0DBB41-B3A1-40C2-B1A5-968DBFBCBC15@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: <00ab01cc09fa$5d16a1a0$1743e4e0$@net> Hans; If you can find your info to convert the gauge, I would love to see it. Thanks Joe Laurito From: Hans de Ferrante [mailto:tr3 at roadrunner.com] Sent: Tuesday, May 03, 2011 8:49 PM To: Triumphs List; Joe Laurito Subject: Fwd: [TR] I finally did it Joe, If it is any consolation; so did I. If you don't care what your dial looks like you can use a Sunpro gauge, model CP 7983 (google it), which is a direct fit and are offered on line between$11 and $20. ?If it is important for you to keep the Lukas face and housing you can actually mount this model's Sunpro guts (system) in the Lukas housing with Lukas pointer and dial as I did. If you are interested, I I'l try to dig up the ?photos and procedure, which I put together sometime ago ?for another list member. Hans Begin forwarded message: From: "Joe Laurito" Date: May 3, 2011 11:12:10 AM PDT To: "Triumphs List" Subject: [TR] I finally did it Well, it took me 53 years to accomplish the task but I finally broke the capillary tube on the TR3a water temperature gauge. I do remember seeing look-alike electric versions of this unit. Anybody know the source for the gauge and the sender? Joe Laurito From tr3 at roadrunner.com Tue May 3 21:12:44 2011 From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (T.R Terror) Date: Tue, 3 May 2011 20:12:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] I finally did it In-Reply-To: <00ab01cc09fa$5d16a1a0$1743e4e0$@net> References: <004b01cc09bd$9f919950$deb4cbf0$@net> <0B0DBB41-B3A1-40C2-B1A5-968DBFBCBC15@roadrunner.com> <00ab01cc09fa$5d16a1a0$1743e4e0$@net> Message-ID: <2F8B8F4E-FDF8-4A47-AB49-49B8CDAD6F94@roadrunner.com> Joe, I found the email I sent to George Harpool with the info. and I am forwarding it to you. Don't let it psych you out. It really is quite easy unless tinkering isn't your forte. I never heard back from George if he went ahead with it or not. On May 3, 2011, at 6:26 PM, Joe Laurito wrote: > Hans; > > If you can find your info to convert the gauge, I would love to see > it. > > Thanks > > Joe Laurito > > From: Hans de Ferrante [mailto:tr3 at roadrunner.com] > Sent: Tuesday, May 03, 2011 8:49 PM > To: Triumphs List; Joe Laurito > Subject: Fwd: [TR] I finally did it > > Joe, > If it is any consolation; so did I. > If you don't care what your dial looks like you can use a Sunpro > gauge, > model CP 7983 (google it), which is a direct fit and are offered on > line > between$11 and $20. If it is important for you to keep the Lukas > face and > housing you can actually mount this model's Sunpro guts (system) in > the > Lukas housing with Lukas pointer and dial as I did. If you are > interested, I > I'l try to dig up the photos and procedure, which I put together > sometime > ago for another list member. > > Hans > > > Begin forwarded message: > > > From: "Joe Laurito" > Date: May 3, 2011 11:12:10 AM PDT > To: "Triumphs List" > Subject: [TR] I finally did it > > Well, it took me 53 years to accomplish the task but I finally > broke the > capillary tube on the TR3a water temperature gauge. I do remember > seeing > look-alike electric versions of this unit. Anybody know the source > for the > gauge and the sender? > > Joe Laurito > From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Tue May 3 22:56:09 2011 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Wed, 04 May 2011 00:56:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Luggage Rack mounting question In-Reply-To: <000001cc0a14$24b2c0e0$6e1842a0$@net> References: <000001cc0a14$24b2c0e0$6e1842a0$@net> Message-ID: Getting ready to mount the luggage rack to the hinges. Two questions: 1) Which side (inside or outside) does the nut go? Anyone have pictures? 2) Is it better to knock out the pin from one side or the other? It appears that the one side has grooves in it so I am thinking it should be punched from the smooth side. For your re-engineering pleasure: I decided not to use the two 'over-the-edge' brackets because a) it would generally mess up the finish and b) would require some re-bending of the brackets to fit over the post 60000 trunk edge. Instead I created a bracket that will be screwed under the boot handle and attach to the rack with a badge holder bracket. Images at: http://s1001.photobucket.com/albums/af136/cfmtr3a/Information%20Items/?actio n=view¤t=rack_bracket.jpg I haven't polished it yet - it is stainless same as the rack. Also, I will drill the mounting holes once everything is in place. Don't want to mess it up at this point. Carl TS81802LO - getting close. C From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Tue May 3 23:03:17 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 3 May 2011 22:03:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] I finally did it In-Reply-To: <2F8B8F4E-FDF8-4A47-AB49-49B8CDAD6F94@roadrunner.com> References: <004b01cc09bd$9f919950$deb4cbf0$@net><0B0DBB41-B3A1-40C2-B1A5-968DBFBCBC15@roadrunner.com><00ab01cc09fa$5d16a1a0$1743e4e0$@net> <2F8B8F4E-FDF8-4A47-AB49-49B8CDAD6F94@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: <01fe01cc0a18$94b5d860$0301a8c0@randall> > Don't let it psych you out. It really is quite easy unless > tinkering isn't your forte. > I never heard back from George if he went ahead with it or not. Don't think it was George, but someone posted on another BBS that they had done it successfully. Then a year or two later, they mentioned that the repaired gauge had quit working, apparently it had a slow leak. > > If you don't care what your dial looks like you can use a Sunpro > > gauge, > > model CP 7983 (google it), which is a direct fit Here's a shot of what it looks like installed: http://tinyurl.com/67dao7n Not very attractive, but you can get spoiled by actually knowing what the temperature is to within a few degrees, instead of just "hot"/"not hot". -- Randall From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed May 4 06:01:31 2011 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 4 May 2011 08:01:31 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] I finally did it Message-ID: In a message dated 5/3/2011 4:03:07 PM Central Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > Or eBay. Don't forget that the TR4 gauge requires a voltage stabilizer > as > well. Indeed. You will also need the sending unit and the wiring, too. > > Personally, I think I'm going back to the capillary tube style, at least > for > now. I just don't trust the electrical gauge (or my home-brew electronic > voltage stabilizer); and I'm beginning to think it may be part of my > perceived overheating problem. It's either that, or my electric fan > thermostat is erratic. The voltage stabilizer, whether store bought or home grown, needs a good ground. Grounding it to the back of the gauge (as is typically done by the factory) can, in time, lead to the problems you are seeing. Sometimes the bad ground is within the stabilizer itself. Not so likely in home brew units with are most likely soldered but the crimp connection on the Lucas units can corrode and cause problems. Dave From dave at ranteer.com Wed May 4 08:38:17 2011 From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave) Date: Wed, 4 May 2011 09:38:17 -0500 Subject: [TR] off topic - Tuscaloosa In-Reply-To: <08C904292B974CF2A3C9B937515244C9@Alan> References: <000001cc0a26$6b2eb580$418c2080$@net> <08C904292B974CF2A3C9B937515244C9@Alan> Message-ID: <88D68886FAC54E348CAC098C6D89E696@ranteer.local> My son is a student at the university of alabama in tuscaloosa. the city was truly devastated. he took shelter with many other students in the basement of the library last wednesday evening. with the power still out thursday morning, he drove home to dallas. we were obviously glad to see him. he is selling T Shirts to raise money for the restoration effort, and has put together this website: www.PrayforTTown.com thanks! Triumph topic - he works hard on our TR6 with me and loves driving it From spook01 at comcast.net Wed May 4 13:21:40 2011 From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01 at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 04 May 2011 14:21:40 -0500 Subject: [TR] Steps in doing a tune up Message-ID: Valve setting effects compression. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone Ted Schumacher wrote: >Cosmo and list.First step in a tune-up is a compression check. If a >cylinder is down,no matter how good th tune-up, yo can't compensate for >loss of power in a cylinder. Ted > > >On 5/2/2011 1:05 PM, Cosmo Kramer wrote: >> Hi List! >> >> When I do a tune up on the Garage Queen, I first start with checking the valves >> & adj. them, to have them set right, because the engine is still cold. >> >> My question is: >> What are the steps, IN ORDER, to do an efficient tune up with a car that has >> points? >> >> I would like to know, from when the engine is cold to when the engine is warmed >> up, the procedure to the last step. TIA, >> -Cosmo Kramer >> _______________________________________________ >> Triumphs at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $11.47 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tedtsimx at bright.net >> >> > > >-- >Ted Schumacher >tedtsimx at bright.net >http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com >108 S. Jefferson St. >Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877 >Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.) >Phone: 800.543.6648 (US& Canada) >Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022 > >_______________________________________________ >Triumphs at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $11.47 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net > From darrellw at ipns.com Wed May 4 13:23:38 2011 From: darrellw at ipns.com (Darrell Walker) Date: Wed, 4 May 2011 12:23:38 -0700 Subject: [TR] Heritage certificate question Message-ID: I want to order a Heritage Certificate for my new TR8. Looking at the web order form (http://www.heritage-motor-centre.co.uk/store/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=29782), there is an option for: "Do you require a formal copy of this certificate?:" Does anyone know what that means? I've emailed a question to the folks at the Heritage Motor Centre, but have not heard back. Thanks! -- Darrell Walker 66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L 81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206 Vancouver, WA, USA From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed May 4 13:48:32 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 4 May 2011 12:48:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] Steps in doing a tune up In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <07c401cc0a94$405ee460$c11cad20$@rr.com> > Valve setting effects compression. That is true. But I question the value of doing a compression check before a tune-up anyway, when working on your own car for the street. It's different when you are getting paid for your work, and don't know the car well; or the engine is for a race car where every last hp is sacred. But for a street engine, you don't refuse to do a tune-up just because it is a bit tired. I've run a lot of miles (and even won races) with engines where the compression was significantly down on one or more cylinders. -- Randall From spitlist at cox.net Wed May 4 14:29:29 2011 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Wed, 4 May 2011 13:29:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] Heritage certificate question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I suspect that it means "Suitable for framing"! Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Darrell Walker Sent: Wednesday, May 04, 2011 12:24 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net List Subject: [TR] Heritage certificate question I want to order a Heritage Certificate for my new TR8. Looking at the web order form (http://www.heritage-motor-centre.co.uk/store/index.php?dispatch=products.vi ew&product_id=29782), there is an option for: "Do you require a formal copy of this certificate?:" Does anyone know what that means? I've emailed a question to the folks at the Heritage Motor Centre, but have not heard back. Thanks! -- Darrell Walker 66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L 81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206 Vancouver, WA, USA _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net From spook01 at comcast.net Wed May 4 14:44:57 2011 From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01 at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 04 May 2011 15:44:57 -0500 Subject: [TR] Steps in doing a tune up Message-ID: First set valves. Then do both wet and dry compression. A vacuum gauge will assist in finding all sorts of problems, rings, valves, leaks. Old school ways. Then go to ignition, finally carbs. Anyway, that's how leyland taught us. Ray Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone Randall wrote: >> Valve setting effects compression. > >That is true. But I question the value of doing a compression check before >a tune-up anyway, when working on your own car for the street. It's >different when you are getting paid for your work, and don't know the car >well; or the engine is for a race car where every last hp is sacred. But >for a street engine, you don't refuse to do a tune-up just because it is a >bit tired. > >I've run a lot of miles (and even won races) with engines where the >compression was significantly down on one or more cylinders. > >-- Randall > >_______________________________________________ >Triumphs at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $11.47 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net > From brianharlan at scrtc.com Wed May 4 18:00:49 2011 From: brianharlan at scrtc.com (Brian Harlan) Date: Wed, 04 May 2011 19:00:49 -0500 Subject: [TR] Mirror placement Message-ID: <4DC1E8B1.8080901@scrtc.com> I own a 68 Spitfire Mk3. When I purchased it, the previous owner had replaced the original right and left side view mirrors with the type that are designed to mount on the fenders (wings). I know the original placement was on the doors, but I really like the fender mounted look. I want to relocate mine to the fenders. Does anyone know, is there a specific or preferred location for the fender mounted mirrors? Could someone give specifics, actual measurements and perhaps photos? Anyone who might have done this, any regrets? Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience, Brian From TR250Driver at aol.com Wed May 4 18:44:48 2011 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Wed, 4 May 2011 20:44:48 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] My TR250 is Done Message-ID: Hey Guys, Sing Hallelujah! My 250 is done! I am not ashamed to say that I simply wrote the checks this time to have Mark and his Dad, Terry of Classic Restoration in Warren, Ohio restore it for a second time to as original. I have for sure been over every part of this car personally so I have done my part previously. I wore it out the first time and with any luck I will live long enough to wear it out a second time. According to Mark: "Car looks great! I took it out on SAT and put about 20 miles on the clock and I think it runs and drives absolutely perfect. A true joy to drive." Life is Good, Darrell From allegrorover at mac.com Wed May 4 19:17:06 2011 From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio) Date: Wed, 04 May 2011 21:17:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] My TR250 is Done In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <22EC8697-FF30-4A56-83D5-C77BD79BDC52@mac.com> Pictures????????? Congratulations as well. Tony Cascio 58 TR3A TS27093L allegrorover at mac.com www.triumphowners.com/1489 From yellowtr at adelphia.net Thu May 5 05:36:15 2011 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Thu, 5 May 2011 07:36:15 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] My TR250 is Done In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <201105050736.16337.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Wednesday, May 04, 2011 08:44:48 pm TR250Driver at aol.com wrote: > Hey Guys, > Sing Hallelujah! My 250 is done! I am not ashamed to say that I simply > wrote the checks this time to have Mark and his Dad, Terry of Classic > Restoration in Warren, Ohio restore it for a second time to as original. Darrell, Way to go! If you are a member of the 6-pack or the Triumph forum, post some photos! If the weather was a bit warmer and drier up here in central NY, I would be right behind you with my 72 TR6 restoration. Just a few things to go and I will be driving my 3rd Triumph. I chose the do it yourself. Still paying for my 3 girls college and 2 weddings! Bob From rtriplett25 at yahoo.com Thu May 5 12:00:42 2011 From: rtriplett25 at yahoo.com (richard triplett) Date: Thu, 5 May 2011 11:00:42 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Five year maintenance tasks? Message-ID: <428319.84687.qm@web161316.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Reading the recent discussion on tuneup steps to take after a long winter slumber has me wondering about longer-duration checkups: I "inherited" ts75434L from my dad in 2006. The TR3 had a complete re-freshening in the late 1990s, with a rebuilt TR4 drive-train installed and all electrical replaced/updated. He drove it maybe a total of 5000 miles up to 2006, and I have put at most 500 miles per year since then. So perhaps 7000-8000 miles and 13+ years have gone by since the restoration. It sits in the garage and is never driven in poor weather. My dad did very little maintenance on the car after the restoration, since it was in such good shape. All I've done is an annual oil change, battery tending and cleaning the air filter periodically. It's got me wondering about what else I should be doing and how often: Distributor points, valvetrain adjustment, plugs/wires? (Not done in 10+ years) Carb maintenance? (thoroughly rebuilt strombergs in 2007) Gas tank maintenance? Packing wheel bearings? Lubing suspension points? (I did hit them with a grease gun a few years ago) Bleeding brakes? (converted to Dot 5) Replacing gearbox/differential fluid? Anything else? This car has been a superb fair-weather driver and only leaks a quarter-sized drip occasionally. I would hate to have a catastrophic failure someday due to lack of maintenance though. Thanks for any input, Richard From wbeech at flash.net Fri May 6 00:48:56 2011 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Fri, 6 May 2011 00:48:56 -0600 Subject: [TR] FT Emblems Message-ID: <0FCF380EA39E4AB4BDD039C1D45AAE5F@bboffice> Marty, Got my "FT" emblems today, they look great! Thanks for your efforts to make these available so we all can fittingly remember a fine man and great contributor to out pastime All the best, Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" . From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Fri May 6 06:47:36 2011 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Fri, 6 May 2011 07:47:36 -0500 Subject: [TR] FT Emblems In-Reply-To: <0FCF380EA39E4AB4BDD039C1D45AAE5F@bboffice> References: <0FCF380EA39E4AB4BDD039C1D45AAE5F@bboffice> Message-ID: I got mine yesterday also. I agree they look great. Rich White Central, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF###L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! > From: wbeech at flash.net > To: triumphs at Autox.Team.Net > Date: Fri, 6 May 2011 00:48:56 -0600 > Subject: [TR] FT Emblems > > Marty, > > Got my "FT" emblems today, they look great! Thanks for your efforts to make > these available so we all can fittingly remember a fine man and great > contributor to out pastime > > All the best, > Bill > > Bill Beecher > '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" > www.triumphowners.com/1566 > "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of > course, some times it is difficult to make it go" > > . > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com > From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Fri May 6 10:16:22 2011 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Fri, 6 May 2011 09:16:22 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] paint codes Message-ID: <736516.62879.qm@web65309.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> In response to the various paint codes for BRG from the recent posts, I took half a dozen codes into the local paint shop. They could not seem to translate those codes into usable information to come up with samples for me. They did get me two color samples which I can use which will be helpful. I also had a question about the Jag codes which consisted of various HEN ect. ect. ect letters. Does one go to a jaguar paint book and then look for the H appelations? The paint vendor also suggested that various codes get outdated over the years. I ended up very confused after visiting with them.LOL (which isn't difficult to do!) gary n. From pryner at verizon.net Fri May 6 11:01:13 2011 From: pryner at verizon.net (Peter Ryner) Date: Fri, 06 May 2011 13:01:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] paint codes In-Reply-To: <736516.62879.qm@web65309.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> References: <736516.62879.qm@web65309.mail.ac2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8C11CC84E6A54352B3A182319105DB13@PetePC> Not sure if this will help but I have the formula used on my '56 TR3 almost 20 years ago. The shop had original paint chips used on LBCs and I had them match the one that was used in the 50s. I love the color, but can't say if it is the exact one you want. The paint was R-M Diamond by BASF and was system 88something. The name is covered by the paint. Here is the formula they wrote on the label for me for a gallon: BR50 311.2 500 1694.5 605 2611.3 200 3187.0 405 3406.1 640 3524.1 I need to repaint the car in the near future and will also be looking for a modern code. Pete ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gary Nafziger" To: Sent: Friday, May 06, 2011 12:16 PM Subject: [TR] paint codes > In response to the various paint codes for BRG from the recent posts, I > took > half a dozen codes into the local paint shop. They could not seem to > translate > those codes into usable information to come up with samples for me. They > did > get me two color samples which I can use which will be helpful. > I also had a question about the Jag codes which consisted of various HEN > ect. > ect. ect letters. Does one go to a jaguar paint book and then look for > the H > appelations? The paint vendor also suggested that various codes get > outdated > over the years. I ended up very confused after visiting with them.LOL > (which > isn't difficult to do!) > > gary n. > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Manage your account: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pryner at verizon.net > From trmarty at hotmail.com Sat May 7 09:42:28 2011 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Sat, 7 May 2011 11:42:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] FT Memorial Decals Message-ID: Just a reminder, we have 3 inch diameter window decals and stickers made up in memory of Fred Thomas. Since they are purchased and obviously we cannot return them I would like to move them from my kitchen counter to your mailbox. Fred touched so many of us it was the thing to do. Price is $2.00 for the first one and $1.00 for each additional mailed at the same time. This covers the decal/sticker and postage. Send a check and a note telling me how many of which one (sticker or decal) to Marty Sukey 38286 Law Rd, Grafton OH 44044. Thanks, Marty Sukey From tfansher at comcast.net Sat May 7 10:36:48 2011 From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 7 May 2011 16:36:48 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] was FT Memorial Decals now Jack Drews In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1237461477.2448303.1304786208513.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> I also received my FT decals and sticker yesterday. Nice job Marty. Does anyone know who has the Jack Drews #59 decals. I had a few of the magnets made up with the design - thanks Joe Pawlek - but missed out on the decals and would like to get four. TIA Tom Fansher DeBary,FL From emanteno at comcast.net Sat May 7 12:34:19 2011 From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey) Date: Sat, 7 May 2011 13:34:19 -0500 Subject: [TR] was FT Memorial Decals now Jack Drews In-Reply-To: <1237461477.2448303.1304786208513.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1237461477.2448303.1304786208513.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Try Joe Alexander N197TR4 at cs.com On Sat, May 7, 2011 at 11:36 AM, wrote: > > I also received my FT decals and sticker yesterday. Nice job Marty. > Does anyone know who has the Jack Drews #59 decals. I had a few > of the magnets made up with the design - thanks Joe Pawlek - but missed > out on the decals and would like to get four. > TIA > Tom Fansher > DeBary,FL > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Manage your account: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/emanteno at gmail.com > > From levilevi at comcast.net Sat May 7 13:28:43 2011 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Sat, 7 May 2011 13:28:43 -0600 Subject: [TR] FT Memorial Decals In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3562DD7E-AFAF-46FC-9F34-679EAECF915C@comcast.net> Marty, Great job on both decals and stickers. Got the window decal on my 6 right next to the Triumph List decal and a sticker on my tool chest. They look very nice, very classy. FT would approve. Regards Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On May 7, 2011, at 9:42 AM, marty sukey wrote: > > Just a reminder, we have 3 inch diameter window decals and stickers > made up in memory of Fred Thomas. Since they are purchased and > obviously we cannot return them I would like to move them from my > kitchen counter to your mailbox. Fred touched so many of us it was > the thing to do. Price is $2.00 for the first one and $1.00 for each > additional mailed at the same time. This covers the decal/sticker > and postage. Send a check and a note telling me how many of which > one (sticker or decal) to Marty Sukey 38286 Law Rd, Grafton OH 44044. > > Thanks, > Marty Sukey > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net > From ebartle at hbci.com Mon May 2 10:42:28 2011 From: ebartle at hbci.com (Eric Bartleson) Date: Mon, 2 May 2011 11:42:28 -0500 Subject: [TR] 1959 TR3A for sale Message-ID: TR 3A For Sale After a long time of struggling with this decision I have decided to sell my restored 1959 TR3A. The car has been my family for about 25 years. I purchased it from my brother who decided not to go ahead with a restoration. The process of restoration took about 3 years. A summary of the major work on the car: ? Body removed from frame and both were repaired/restored/or replaced ? Engine was rebuilt by an experienced engine shop in Winona ? Transmission rebuilt by an experienced shop in Hart,Minnesota ? Carbs were rebuilt and adjusted by excellent British Motor Car technician ? Radiator re-cored and crank starter access closed up(more cooling) ? All body work completed by professional body shop ? New interior ? New top ? Restored side curtains with new ?glass? and fabric ? New toneau cover ? Seats were rebuilt and new upholstery ? New carpet ? New wiring harness ? Original gauges repaired ? New Cooper tires ? Wheels repainted ? New front bumper ? New glass in windshield ? Installed electronic ignition ? Replace generator with new alternator Many other minor repairs and replacements were also addressed I have records for all of the completed work In addition to the car, I have a full cover for storage, original owners manual Extra body parts, headlights, wheel and many other items I want to offer this to TR Members before going out on the internet I would like about $13,000-$15,000 for everything Car is located in Winona, MN and is still stored in rented garage Please contact me with questions or are interested in making and offer. Eric Bartleson 509-429-5233 cell From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk Sun May 8 11:27:40 2011 From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Sun, 8 May 2011 18:27:40 +0100 (BST) Subject: [TR] Heritage certificate question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <827329.16294.qm@web28308.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Hi, Darrell It's a long time since I worked for BMIHT and policies may have changed, but ....... It *may* (for a lower fee) that they're prepared to let you have details of your car from their records as a simple email - but that's entirely speculative on my part. The GBP 40.00 will be the 'formal certificate' for you to frame, hang on a wall or do whatever you want with it :) Jonmac ----- Original Message ---- From: Darrell Walker To: "triumphs at autox.team.net List" Sent: Wed, 4 May, 2011 20:23:38 Subject: [TR] Heritage certificate question I want to order a Heritage Certificate for my new TR8. Looking at the web order form (http://www.heritage-motor-centre.co.uk/store/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=29782), there is an option for: "Do you require a formal copy of this certificate?:" Does anyone know what that means?? I've emailed a question to the folks at the Heritage Motor Centre, but have not heard back. Thanks! -- Darrell Walker 66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L 81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206 Vancouver, WA, USA _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk From JGILLIS at tcd.ie Sun May 8 11:38:33 2011 From: JGILLIS at tcd.ie (John Gillis) Date: Sun, 8 May 2011 18:38:33 +0100 Subject: [TR] Head studs issue Message-ID: With the TR2 engine out and head off, I decided to remove one of the studs where I had seen water bubbling up while the engine was running, I discovered water/liquid in the bottom of the stud hole, removed them all and the same in all. Cleaned them out copper grease on the thread and put them back, I guess it is OK to use copper grease here? The worrying issue is the amount of corrosion on two of the studs, at the top of the thread (block end) These are new studs from Moss UK, and remembering this engine has not run more than a mile and some stationary running in the garage. This is clearly a quality issue, not for the first time when buying from the "big boys". Can anybody tell me where I might buy some GOOD QUALITY studs. Regards John 1954 TR2 From JGILLIS at tcd.ie Sun May 8 11:53:09 2011 From: JGILLIS at tcd.ie (John Gillis) Date: Sun, 8 May 2011 18:53:09 +0100 Subject: [TR] head studs issue Message-ID: With the TR2 engine out and head off, I decided to remove one of the studs where I had seen water bubbling up while the engine was running, I discovered water/liquid in the bottom of the stud hole, removed them all and the same in all. Cleaned them out copper grease on the thread and put them back, I guess it is OK to use copper grease here? The worrying issue is the amount of corrosion on two of the studs, at the top of the thread (block end) These are new studs from Moss UK, and remembering this engine has not run more than a mile and some stationary running in the garage. This is clearly a quality issue, not for the first time when buying from the "big boys". Can anybody tell me where I might buy some GOOD QUALITY studs. Regards John 1954 TR2 From wbeech at flash.net Sun May 8 14:21:33 2011 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Sun, 8 May 2011 14:21:33 -0600 Subject: [TR] head studs issue In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <07695C7D10C844379481B3EDDCCDF99B@bboffice> John, I broke a stud last year, put a nice dimple on the bonnet, and all the recommendations that came to me were for the ARP studs. Bought a set for about $100US on eBay and they installed perfectly with no issues. Have only had the chance to drive a few miles this year so I cannot speak to long-term use but only that these seem to be the preferred product for the high-performance guys and the cost was less than the regular suppliers. Regarding the corrosion issue, I would probably give the Moss, UK folks a ring and see what they say. BTW, it does not appear for it to be uncommon for some coolant to get into the stud holes whilst removing the head, I too had this but no signs of leaking since. All the best, Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Gillis Sent: Sunday, May 08, 2011 11:53 AM To: triumphs at Autox.Team.Net Subject: [TR] head studs issue With the TR2 engine out and head off, I decided to remove one of the studs where I had seen water bubbling up while the engine was running, I discovered water/liquid in the bottom of the stud hole, removed them all and the same in all. Cleaned them out copper grease on the thread and put them back, I guess it is OK to use copper grease here? The worrying issue is the amount of corrosion on two of the studs, at the top of the thread (block end) These are new studs from Moss UK, and remembering this engine has not run more than a mile and some stationary running in the garage. This is clearly a quality issue, not for the first time when buying from the "big boys". Can anybody tell me where I might buy some GOOD QUALITY studs. Regards John 1954 TR2 _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From mntr3a at aol.com Sun May 8 16:24:04 2011 From: mntr3a at aol.com (mntr3a at aol.com) Date: Sun, 8 May 2011 18:24:04 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] [mntriumphsgroup] TR6 Speedometer In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CDDBE5C5FB1D36-1558-80396@webmail-d088.sysops.aol.com> From: larry.berg12 Subject: [mntriumphsgroup] TR6 Speedometer I am in need of a speedometer for my TR6. On Saturday I drove to breakfast at a constant speed of 40 to 120 MPH down highway 169. Looks like I need a SN6411/11 speedometer, that would be set up for a 3.7:1 differential. The appearance isn't important as we can put good insides in my case. I would appreciate any help as a new unit or rebuilt unit would run about $250. From pethier at comcast.net Sun May 8 16:41:33 2011 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 8 May 2011 22:41:33 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] FT Memorial Decals In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <395987809.223250.1304894493214.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Mine are delivered. Thanks Marty! Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack" 2004 Suburban 8.1 2005 Lotus Elise 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://www.mnautox.com ----- Original Message ----- > From: "marty sukey" > To: "Triumph List" > Sent: Saturday, May 7, 2011 10:42:28 AM > Subject: [TR] FT Memorial Decals > > Just a reminder, we have 3 inch diameter window decals and stickers > made up in memory of Fred Thomas. Since they are purchased and > obviously we cannot return them I would like to move them from my > kitchen counter to your mailbox. Fred touched so many of us it was > the thing to do. Price is $2.00 for the first one and $1.00 for each > additional mailed at the same time. This covers the decal/sticker and > postage. Send a check and a note telling me how many of which one > (sticker or decal) to Marty Sukey 38286 Law Rd, Grafton OH 44044. > > Thanks, > Marty Sukey > ____________ From spook01 at comcast.net Sun May 8 16:45:34 2011 From: spook01 at comcast.net (R) Date: Sun, 08 May 2011 17:45:34 -0500 Subject: [TR] head studs issue Message-ID: Let me chime in on arp studs. Also, you should have no problems with the stripped threads. Use stainless and never look back. Best, R ?Life is tough. It's even tougher if you' re stupid." -John Wayne wbeech at flash.net wrote: >John, > >I broke a stud last year, put a nice dimple on the bonnet, and all the >recommendations that came to me were for the ARP studs. Bought a set for >about $100US on eBay and they installed perfectly with no issues. Have only >had the chance to drive a few miles this year so I cannot speak to long-term >use but only that these seem to be the preferred product for the >high-performance guys and the cost was less than the regular suppliers. > >Regarding the corrosion issue, I would probably give the Moss, UK folks a >ring and see what they say. > >BTW, it does not appear for it to be uncommon for some coolant to get into >the stud holes whilst removing the head, I too had this but no signs of >leaking since. > >All the best, >Bill > >-----Original Message----- >From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net >[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Gillis >Sent: Sunday, May 08, 2011 11:53 AM >To: triumphs at Autox.Team.Net >Subject: [TR] head studs issue > >With the TR2 engine out and head off, I decided to remove one of the studs >where I had seen water bubbling up while the engine was running, I >discovered water/liquid in the bottom of the stud hole, removed them all and >the same in all. Cleaned them out copper grease on the thread and put them >back, I guess it is OK to use copper grease here? The worrying issue is the >amount of corrosion on two of the studs, at the top of the thread (block >end) These are new studs from Moss UK, and remembering this engine has not >run more than a mile and some stationary running in the garage. This is >clearly a quality issue, not for the first time when buying from the "big >boys". Can anybody tell me where I might buy some GOOD QUALITY studs. >Regards >John >1954 TR2 >_______________________________________________ >Triumphs at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $11.47 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Manage your account: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net > >_______________________________________________ >Triumphs at autox.team.net >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $11.47 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net > From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun May 8 16:52:09 2011 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 8 May 2011 18:52:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] [mntriumphsgroup] TR6 Speedometer In-Reply-To: <8CDDBE5C5FB1D36-1558-80396@webmail-d088.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CDDBE5C5FB1D36-1558-80396@webmail-d088.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: A bunch of the 6-Pack guys have been using http://westvalleyinstruments.com/ for all their instrument rebuild/calibrations. I had my speedo rebuilt with an odometer gear change to match my Nissan diff, calibrated and a new inner cable that actually met the correct spec on the end dimensions. Total cost was $225 shipped and turn around time was 10 days. You will have to provide the information found here http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/SpeedometerCalibration.htm Call West Valley and ask for Morris..........quality work that is done on time and on price. If you want to attempt to repair it yourself you can download the instructions here http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/Files/SpeedoRepair.pdf Bob Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 1975 TR6 with: Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff & CVJs -----Original Message----- From: mntr3a at aol.com Sent: Sunday, May 08, 2011 6:24 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] [mntriumphsgroup] TR6 Speedometer From: larry.berg12 Subject: [mntriumphsgroup] TR6 Speedometer I am in need of a speedometer for my TR6. On Saturday I drove to breakfast at a constant speed of 40 to 120 MPH down highway 169. Looks like I need a SN6411/11 speedometer, that would be set up for a 3.7:1 differential. The appearance isn't important as we can put good insides in my case. I would appreciate any help as a new unit or rebuilt unit would run about $250. _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From dwillner at ptd.net Mon May 9 07:53:12 2011 From: dwillner at ptd.net (davewillner) Date: Mon, 9 May 2011 09:53:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] fluid check Message-ID: <35C27F6DD8A247E4A80F926F8DFB2409@valued9cfc0b6f> Is there a fool-proof method (other than replacement) to tell what type of fluid is in a car? I did put a few drops on a painted spare part and it didn't seem to bother it, but it also may be 10 years old? Thanks Dave Willner Stroudsburg PA 59 TR3A 70 MGB 70 BSA 441 VS From pethier at comcast.net Mon May 9 11:43:43 2011 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 9 May 2011 17:43:43 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] fluid check In-Reply-To: <35C27F6DD8A247E4A80F926F8DFB2409@valued9cfc0b6f> Message-ID: <27569620.261136.1304963023358.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> What kind of fluid are you talking about, brake fluid? Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack" 2004 Suburban 8.1 2005 Lotus Elise 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://www.mnautox.com ----- Original Message ----- > From: "davewillner" > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Monday, May 9, 2011 8:53:12 AM > Subject: [TR] fluid check > > Is there a fool-proof method (other than replacement) to tell what > type of fluid is in a car? I did put a few drops on a painted spare > part and it didn't seem to bother it, but it also may be 10 years old? > Thanks > > Dave Willner > Stroudsburg PA > 59 TR3A > 70 MGB > 70 BSA 441 VS > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Manage your account: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net From dmitchel at sbcglobal.net Mon May 9 12:21:37 2011 From: dmitchel at sbcglobal.net (Doug Mitchell) Date: Mon, 9 May 2011 11:21:37 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] [mntriumphsgroup] TR6 Speedometer Message-ID: <449218.39489.qm@web80801.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Larry, Are you 100% sure it is the Speedo? I had a similar problem a couple of years back, and it turned out to be my speedo cable. It was broken near the speedo head. It would occasionally show the right speed and then fluctuate wildly. Finally stopped working altogether. Much cheaper than a speedo although possibly more difficult to replace. Doug From: larry.berg12 I am in need of a speedometer for my TR6.? On Saturday I drove to breakfast at a constant speed of 40 to 120 MPH down highway 169.? Looks like I need a SN6411/11 speedometer, that would be set up for a 3.7:1 differential. The appearance isn't important as we can put good insides in my case. I would appreciate any help as a new unit or rebuilt unit would run about $250. From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Mon May 9 13:38:26 2011 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Mon, 9 May 2011 12:38:26 -0700 Subject: [TR] fluid check In-Reply-To: <35C27F6DD8A247E4A80F926F8DFB2409@valued9cfc0b6f> References: <35C27F6DD8A247E4A80F926F8DFB2409@valued9cfc0b6f> Message-ID: On Mon, May 9, 2011 at 6:53 AM, davewillner wrote: > Is there a fool-proof method (other than replacement) to tell what type of > fluid is in a car?... it also may be 10 years old? If it is brake fluif and it 'may be 10 years old' then why not just replace it with whatever flavor you like? I like Goofy Grape. Geo From pethier at comcast.net Mon May 9 14:24:43 2011 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 9 May 2011 20:24:43 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] fluid check In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <504366179.273718.1304972683815.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> > If it is brake fluif and it 'may be 10 years old' then why not just > replace > it with whatever flavor you like? Because you don't want to jump the DOT 3-5 / Silicone divide without major rehab of the system. Flushing with compatible stuff is much easier and more sure. I found out that there is silicone in the Stag, and I put a "SILICONE" Dymo label on the cap right away. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack" 2004 Suburban 8.1 2005 Lotus Elise 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://www.mnautox.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon May 9 15:34:53 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 9 May 2011 14:34:53 -0700 Subject: [TR] fluid check In-Reply-To: <504366179.273718.1304972683815.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <504366179.273718.1304972683815.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <002c01cc0e90$efe2f610$cfa8e230$@rr.com> > Because you don't want to jump the DOT 3-5 / Silicone divide without > major rehab of the system. Worked fine for me. You probably won't get 100% of the benefit of silicone that way, since some small amount of glycol will remain in the system, but I drove that (non-LBC) some 170,000 miles and never had to touch the hydraulics again. And it would have to be better than running 10 year old conventional brake fluif! -- Randall From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com Mon May 9 21:58:03 2011 From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly) Date: Mon, 9 May 2011 20:58:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] Any good TR machine shops in San Diego Area? Message-ID: <000001cc0ec6$7697e000$63c7a000$@rr.com> My TR have excessive oil leakage through the rear seal and dip stick. A leak down test shows that the valves are leaking too much air (about 30%). It's where the leaking sound is the loudest, so I'm thinking that redo-ing the head is in order. Anybody know a good machine shop in San Diego area? And, while the head is being reworked, any suggestions to what should be done? I drive 15 miles to work each day, mostly on the freeways, but also on surface streets. Obviously replace the valves and guides. Will polishing help? Other stuff? Thanks! Johnnie '67 TR4A From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Mon May 9 22:49:45 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 9 May 2011 21:49:45 -0700 Subject: [TR] Any good TR machine shops in San Diego Area? In-Reply-To: <000001cc0ec6$7697e000$63c7a000$@rr.com> References: <000001cc0ec6$7697e000$63c7a000$@rr.com> Message-ID: <099e01cc0ecd$af604bf0$0301a8c0@randall> > My TR have excessive oil leakage through the rear seal and dip stick. ... > And, while the head is being reworked, any suggestions to > what should be done? Sounds to me like you should be doing rings & bearings as well. A valve job isn't going to help the oil leakage. -- Randall From clancy36 at comcast.net Tue May 10 04:43:33 2011 From: clancy36 at comcast.net (clancy36 at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 10 May 2011 10:43:33 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR6 serpentine belt system topic In-Reply-To: <1340712437.69042.1305024162996.JavaMail.root@sz0038a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1899731096.69055.1305024213483.JavaMail.root@sz0038a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> does anybody know if moss sells the serpentine belt components to their super charger kit separately ? i'm doing a completely hidden vintage a/c-heat system in a six i'm building, sure would be trick to run a single belt. i'm pretty sure patton up there in maine runs a serpentine with his TBI setup. any info on this topic would be appreciated thanks dan From darrellw at ipns.com Tue May 10 07:22:11 2011 From: darrellw at ipns.com (Darrell Walker) Date: Tue, 10 May 2011 06:22:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 serpentine belt system topic In-Reply-To: <1899731096.69055.1305024213483.JavaMail.root@sz0038a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1899731096.69055.1305024213483.JavaMail.root@sz0038a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Hi Dan, > does anybody know if moss sells the serpentine belt components to their super charger kit separately ? If you download the instructions, I believe it will list the components and their Moss part numbers, then you can look them up online. If they don't come up, you would probably have to call them. Be aware that they probably are not cheap, the water pump pulley for my 4A was ~$150 (Moss replaced it free, but the packing slip listed the price). -Darrell From fogbro1 at comcast.net Tue May 10 14:58:44 2011 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 10 May 2011 20:58:44 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR250 problem Message-ID: <1390435065.524383.1305061124830.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> List, Friend of mine reports the following with his TR250. Any thoughts from the List? TIA, Ed Woods "Possible ideas on another 250 issue I?m having as of yesterday. Ran some errands yesterday. After my first stop (20 minutes running, 20 minutes stopped) it took me three or four tries to get the car restarted. Once started I went home to pick a few more things up and when I went back out to go I had the same issue with starting (This car NEVER starts hard). Once started I went on about my business, but after about a ? mile the engine began to sputter and then died. I coasted into a parking lot and stopped. I could immediately restart the car without issue but after 2 seconds it would sputter and die. I left the car and returned about 5 hours later to give it another try. The car started right up and I drove it back home. Fuel is clean and appears untainted. The tank is a 1/3 full and I haven?t had issue until now. Went?to school this morning and picked up lunch this afternoon without issue. Stopped at a buddy?s house to eat and the car sputtered and died in his driveway. Same as yesterday. It starts immediately but dies after a second or two. It does this 5 or 6 times and then won?t start at all. From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Tue May 10 14:59:43 2011 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Tue, 10 May 2011 13:59:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] Any good TR machine shops in San Diego Area? In-Reply-To: <000001cc0ec6$7697e000$63c7a000$@rr.com> References: <000001cc0ec6$7697e000$63c7a000$@rr.com> Message-ID: On Mon, May 9, 2011 at 8:58 PM, John & Pat Donnelly wrote: > ...while the head is being reworked, any suggestions to what should be > done? I drive 15 miles to work each day, mostly on the freeways, but also > on > surface streets. Obviously replace the valves and guides. Will polishing > help? Other stuff? I added hardened seats, at least on the exhaust valves that would seem to be a must-do whilst in there. I also added a road-draft tube to relieve excessive crankcase pressure (perhaps more 'normal' than 'excessive', but too much for the little valve cover opening to handle. Geo From guy at genfiniti.com Tue May 10 15:34:37 2011 From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins) Date: Tue, 10 May 2011 16:34:37 -0500 Subject: [TR] Peening Lift-A-Dot Studs Message-ID: <8BBCD8FD-65E7-4302-98D6-BA3D8EBB07A7@genfiniti.com> All, Can anyone recommend a tool, that is not a ball-peen hammer, for peening the ends of lift-a-dot studs? Cheers, Guy D. Huggins 1965 Triumph TR4A CTC 63569LO Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue May 10 15:47:43 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 10 May 2011 14:47:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] Peening Lift-A-Dot Studs In-Reply-To: <8BBCD8FD-65E7-4302-98D6-BA3D8EBB07A7@genfiniti.com> References: <8BBCD8FD-65E7-4302-98D6-BA3D8EBB07A7@genfiniti.com> Message-ID: <006e01cc0f5b$e75045e0$b5f0d1a0$@rr.com> > Can anyone recommend a tool, that is not a ball-peen hammer, for > peening the ends of lift-a-dot studs? Huh? Are you talking about the "lift the dot" studs for the convertible top &/or tonneau cover? Why do you want to peen them? -- Randall From triumph at lbcs.ca Tue May 10 16:02:55 2011 From: triumph at lbcs.ca (Dave More) Date: Tue, 10 May 2011 16:02:55 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR250 problem In-Reply-To: <1390435065.524383.1305061124830.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1390435065.524383.1305061124830.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: These could possibly be some symptoms of fuel percolation. Was the weather warm? I've experienced the same thing on my TR6 in hot weather, and in addition I've also been able to start it only to have it sputter for 5 or 10 seconds a minute or 2 after I've started off after which it runs normally. If this is the case it can be somewhat alleviated by using a heat shield to protect the carb bowls from the high exhaust manifold temperatures. Cheers, Dave On 2011-05-10, at 2:58 PM, fogbro1 at comcast.net wrote: > > > List, > > > > Friend of mine reports the following with his TR250. Any thoughts from the List? > > > > TIA, > > > > Ed Woods > > > > "Possible ideas on another 250 issue I?m having as of yesterday. Ran some errands yesterday. After my first stop (20 minutes running, 20 minutes stopped) it took me three or four tries to get the car restarted. Once started I went home to pick a few more things up and when I went back out to go I had the same issue with starting (This car NEVER starts hard). Once started I went on about my business, but after about a ? mile the engine began to sputter and then died. I coasted into a parking lot and stopped. I could immediately restart the car without issue but after 2 seconds it would sputter and die. > > > > I left the car and returned about 5 hours later to give it another try. The car started right up and I drove it back home. Fuel is clean and appears untainted. The tank is a 1/3 full and I haven?t had issue until now. > > > > Went to school this morning and picked up lunch this afternoon without issue. Stopped at a buddy?s house to eat and the car sputtered and died in his driveway. Same as yesterday. It starts immediately but dies after a second or two. It does this 5 or 6 times and then won?t start at all. > > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumph at lbcs.ca > From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Tue May 10 16:34:07 2011 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Tue, 10 May 2011 18:34:07 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR250 problem In-Reply-To: References: <1390435065.524383.1305061124830.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: I had a similar thing happen to me when my condenser went bad.... I started to list the things we tried before we found it was the condenser -- but the list was so long it is too embarrassing to share. From tr6parts at charter.net Tue May 10 19:18:28 2011 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore) Date: Tue, 10 May 2011 21:18:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] eyes in Moblie, Al. Message-ID: <1344EF476B834749A35CEB2C7A158678@Alan> Does anyone live in Mobile. Alabama who'd be willing to look at BMW (gasp) for me to verify condition. Thanks, Al Salvatore From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed May 11 06:37:03 2011 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 11 May 2011 08:37:03 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] TR250 problem Message-ID: <4f4bd.22deab14.3afbdcef@cs.com> In a message dated 5/10/2011 4:35:02 PM Central Daylight Time, fogbro1 at comcast.net writes: > "Possible ideas on another 250 issue I?m having as of yesterday. Ran some > errands yesterday. After my first stop (20 minutes running, 20 minutes > stopped) it took me three or four tries to get the car restarted. Once started > I went home to pick a few more things up and when I went back out to go I > had the same issue with starting (This car NEVER starts hard). Once started > I went on about my business, but after about a ? mile the engine began to > sputter and then died. I coasted into a parking lot and stopped. I could > immediately restart the car without issue but after 2 seconds it would > sputter and die. > Check the easy stuff first. The easiest is to check if the tank is venting properly. Open the cas cap. If you get a big rush of air, there's your problem. Check the lines to/from the charcoal canister. If that isn't it try disconnecting the float bowl vent lines that run to the charcoal canister and see if that helps. More difficult: check to see if the float bowl is overflowing. This could be caused by crud in the needle valve and can come and go. It could be caused by the float sinking or coming loose from the pivot. Good luck. Dave From fogbro1 at comcast.net Wed May 11 07:06:41 2011 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 11 May 2011 13:06:41 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR250 problem Message-ID: <142911262.553758.1305119201337.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> List, Thanks for all the suggestions. I'll get back to The List with the solution once it's found. Ed Woods From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Wed May 11 07:56:04 2011 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Wed, 11 May 2011 06:56:04 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR250 problem In-Reply-To: <1390435065.524383.1305061124830.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1390435065.524383.1305061124830.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: On Tue, May 10, 2011 at 1:58 PM, wrote: > "Possible ideas on another 250 issue I?m having as of yesterday. Ran some > errands yesterday. After my first stop (20 minutes running, 20 minutes > stopped) it took me three or four tries to get the car restarted... Along with the above suggestions -- could be a dying coil. Thing I would do is to have stuff along (ignition tester, starting fluid) to quickly determine whether it is lacking fuel or spark when the problem recurs. Geo From tony at tonydrews.com Wed May 11 09:42:52 2011 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Wed, 11 May 2011 10:42:52 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR250 problem In-Reply-To: References: <1390435065.524383.1305061124830.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <20110511154310.3E34818786F@autox.team.net> Check points, condenser (as previously mentioned), and rotor along with the coil. - Tony At 08:56 AM 5/11/2011, Geo Hahn wrote: >On Tue, May 10, 2011 at 1:58 PM, wrote: > > > "Possible ideas on another 250 issue I'm having as of yesterday. Ran some > > errands yesterday. After my first stop (20 minutes running, 20 minutes > > stopped) it took me three or four tries to get the car restarted... > > >Along with the above suggestions -- could be a dying coil. Thing I would do >is to have stuff along (ignition tester, starting fluid) to quickly >determine whether it is lacking fuel or spark when the problem recurs. > >Geo From info at classictradespace.com Wed May 11 09:53:53 2011 From: info at classictradespace.com (classic trade space) Date: Wed, 11 May 2011 16:53:53 +0100 Subject: [TR] TR250 for sale Message-ID: I am in the process of buying two cars but they come with a TR250 which i dont want but have to take all 3 cars just to get the Two that i want, the 250 is restored and only needs some final assembly, probably about a weeks work or even less, these finishing bits and bobs are currently being done so if some one buys the TR250 they will be done by the time you collect the car. Asking $25,000 if any one is interested i can send you the contact details to go and view it. From carlsereda at aol.com Wed May 11 15:05:50 2011 From: carlsereda at aol.com (carlsereda) Date: Wed, 11 May 2011 14:05:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] peening lift the dot studs In-Reply-To: Message-ID: guessing a little here on your intentions... a pointed 'nail punch' if you want to slightly expand the portion (from behind) that goes into the screw down bracket - or a small socket, say 8mm or 3/16" if you want to hit the edges around the portion of stud protruding from underside of the screw-down bracket. In either case gonna need to be careful to hold the peg securely (on the sides and at the pointed end) so as not to damage them.. (maybe drill a shallow hole in hardwood to insert the peg so you can bang away on other end without damaging pointy end) Carl '63TR4 since '74 Can anyone recommend a tool, that is not a ball-peen hammer, for peening the ends of lift-a-dot studs? From terryrs at comcast.net Wed May 11 17:08:46 2011 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 11 May 2011 23:08:46 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Purely Subjective Question re. TR3A Valve Settings In-Reply-To: <1754623228.555501.1305155176147.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <580160862.555582.1305155326690.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Just curious if anyone cares to venture: what would be the loss of power due to poor breathing, if one (omigoodness, not me, no--not me!) were to, say, adjust the valves properly...well, except when the engine had not yet cooled more than halfway. Would one, and of course am speaking only hypothetically here, about someone else...uhm, ehr, would the clearance .010 gap actually be smaller by say a hundredth, and what effect does that actually have on performance. Should he-who-can't-be-named have to worry about burning valves here???? Or would it be just the mild loss of acceleration and top end speed???? Terry Smith,'59 TR3A New Hampshire From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Wed May 11 17:10:25 2011 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Wed, 11 May 2011 16:10:25 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] peening lift the dot studs In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <272362.69471.qm@web120209.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> i think the studs are a 2 part product. the threaded part seems to run from the very top all the way to the end of the threads. the hex drive and body appear to be a separate part that is spin riveted around the threaded part. hammering on one part may cause them to separate into 2 pieces. without hammering i have one on my car that has separated and will not come out. ill need to cut it out with the dremmel Frank ________________________________ From: carlsereda To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Wed, May 11, 2011 2:05:50 PM Subject: Re: [TR] peening lift the dot studs guessing a little here on your intentions... a pointed 'nail punch' if you want to slightly expand the portion (from behind) that goes into the screw down bracket - or a small socket, say 8mm or 3/16" if you want to hit the edges around the portion of stud protruding from underside of the screw-down bracket. In either case gonna need to be careful to hold the peg securely (on the sides and at the pointed end) so as not to damage them.. (maybe drill a shallow hole in hardwood to insert the peg so you can bang away on other end without damaging pointy end) Carl '63TR4 since '74 Can anyone recommend a tool, that is not a ball-peen hammer, for peening the ends of lift-a-dot studs? From aljlthomson at charter.net Wed May 11 19:01:03 2011 From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex&Janet Thomson) Date: Wed, 11 May 2011 21:01:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] Purely Subjective Question re. TR3A Valve Settings References: <580160862.555582.1305155326690.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <8C0966A9F5124B998CD8C30D4F020E49@D6254Z51> For some strange reason, International Harvester often published "hot" valve clearances for their older Farmall tractors as did many other manufacturers. That doesn't do much good when you are assembling an engine and it can't run. I found that adding 0.003" to the specified hot clearance when adjusting them cold would give fairly accurate results. But, we are talking about exhaust clearances in those tractors of 0.017 to 0.020", not just 0.010". Is 0.003" a universal amount rather than a percentage of the hot clearance? Don't know. But, adjusting valves to a cold clearance when they are hot will give you more clearance when they are fully cold. You might notice a bit more clicking from the valve cover. Alex Thomson ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "triumph list" Sent: Wednesday, May 11, 2011 7:08 PM Subject: [TR] Purely Subjective Question re. TR3A Valve Settings > Just curious if anyone cares to venture: what would be the loss of power > due to poor breathing, if one (omigoodness, not me, no--not me!) were to, > say, adjust the valves properly...well, except when the engine had not yet > cooled more than halfway. Would one, and of course am speaking only > hypothetically here, about someone else...uhm, ehr, would the clearance > .010 gap actually be smaller by say a hundredth, and what effect does that > actually have on performance. > > Should he-who-can't-be-named have to worry about burning valves here???? > Or would it be just the mild loss of acceleration and top end speed???? > > Terry Smith,'59 TR3A > New Hampshire > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Manage your account: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/aljlthomson at charter.net > > From ambritts at bellsouth.net Thu May 12 05:01:28 2011 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Thu, 12 May 2011 07:01:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] Napa Oil Filter Message-ID: <6D8BB91C8E654BBBAF036B461AD80BD1@AlexPC> Can't find my notes on the oil filter number for the canister conversion for the NAPA Gold filter. Anyone have the number off the top of their head? Not sure this matters, but it would be for a 72 -TR6 Alex From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu May 12 05:41:18 2011 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 12 May 2011 07:41:18 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Napa Oil Filter In-Reply-To: <6D8BB91C8E654BBBAF036B461AD80BD1@AlexPC> References: <6D8BB91C8E654BBBAF036B461AD80BD1@AlexPC> Message-ID: <6F7D5080E0F64E13992A93E451685757@BobPC> There's two NAPA Gold that fit. The 1516 fits most cars and the 1361 is a little shorter in case the frame interferes. Here's the complete list: AC PF-56 AC PF952 (short) AC Delco Ultraguard Gold UPFL-400A Bosch 72-143 Bosch 72129 (short) Bosch 72161 CarQuest 85516 Champion C104 (short) Crosland 529 (short) Fram PH3512 (short) Fram PH-3600 (Fram PH-3614) Full PH-400 Halfords HOF200 (short) K&N HP-2009 Kralinator L38 Lee LF-42 Mann W719/36 Mobil-1 M1-209 Moss 235-950 Motaquip VFL123 (short) Motorcraft FL-276 Motorcraft FL-313 (short) Motorcraft FL400A NAPA Gold 1516 NAPA Gold 1361 Purolator L10101 (short) (was PER 101) Purolator L20064 Purolator L20195 Sears 45197 STP SO-400 Unipart GFE173 (short) Unipart GFE443 Wix 51335 (short) Wix 51516 -----Original Message----- From: Alex Sent: Thursday, May 12, 2011 7:01 AM To: *Triumphs List ; *Six Pack Subject: [6pack] Napa Oil Filter Can't find my notes on the oil filter number for the canister conversion for the NAPA Gold filter. Anyone have the number off the top of their head? Not sure this matters, but it would be for a 72 -TR6 Alex _______________________________________________ From rpeglow at optonline.net Thu May 12 06:00:53 2011 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Thu, 12 May 2011 08:00:53 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Napa Oil Filter In-Reply-To: <6D8BB91C8E654BBBAF036B461AD80BD1@AlexPC> References: <6D8BB91C8E654BBBAF036B461AD80BD1@AlexPC> Message-ID: I show NAPA Gold 1516 on a note I have. I have not used it and I don't know source of the reference. Regards, Bob -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alex Sent: Thursday, May 12, 2011 7:01 AM To: *Triumphs List; *Six Pack Subject: [6pack] Napa Oil Filter Can't find my notes on the oil filter number for the canister conversion for the NAPA Gold filter. Anyone have the number off the top of their head? Not sure this matters, but it would be for a 72 -TR6 Alex _______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/rpeglow at optonline.net From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu May 12 06:01:39 2011 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 12 May 2011 08:01:39 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Napa Oil Filter Message-ID: <220b3.7b2d4d2b.3afd2623@cs.com> In a message dated 5/12/2011 6:27:14 AM Central Daylight Time, ambritts at bellsouth.net writes: > Can't find my notes on the oil filter number for the canister conversion > for the NAPA Gold filter. Anyone have the number off the top of their head? > Not sure this matters, but it would be for a 72 -TR6 > I use the FL400 or its variants. Same filter used on the Ford Taurus in the 80's and 90's. No issues after 16 years and many thousands of miles. Dave From dave at ranteer.com Thu May 12 06:40:46 2011 From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave) Date: Thu, 12 May 2011 07:40:46 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Napa Oil Filter In-Reply-To: <6F7D5080E0F64E13992A93E451685757@BobPC> References: <6D8BB91C8E654BBBAF036B461AD80BD1@AlexPC> <6F7D5080E0F64E13992A93E451685757@BobPC> Message-ID: the napa guy told me that wix makes the napa filters; drop the first # from the wix and you have the napa #, although that doesn't seem entirely consistent with the list here -----Original Message----- From: Bob Danielson Sent: Thursday, May 12, 2011 6:41 AM To: Alex ; *Triumphs List ; *Six Pack ; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Napa Oil Filter There's two NAPA Gold that fit. The 1516 fits most cars and the 1361 is a little shorter in case the frame interferes. Here's the complete list: AC PF-56 AC PF952 (short) AC Delco Ultraguard Gold UPFL-400A Bosch 72-143 Bosch 72129 (short) Bosch 72161 CarQuest 85516 Champion C104 (short) Crosland 529 (short) Fram PH3512 (short) Fram PH-3600 (Fram PH-3614) Full PH-400 Halfords HOF200 (short) K&N HP-2009 Kralinator L38 Lee LF-42 Mann W719/36 Mobil-1 M1-209 Moss 235-950 Motaquip VFL123 (short) Motorcraft FL-276 Motorcraft FL-313 (short) Motorcraft FL400A NAPA Gold 1516 NAPA Gold 1361 Purolator L10101 (short) (was PER 101) Purolator L20064 Purolator L20195 Sears 45197 STP SO-400 Unipart GFE173 (short) Unipart GFE443 Wix 51335 (short) Wix 51516 From j.honor at comcast.net Thu May 12 07:56:30 2011 From: j.honor at comcast.net (Joe Honor) Date: Thu, 12 May 2011 08:56:30 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Napa Oil Filter In-Reply-To: References: <6D8BB91C8E654BBBAF036B461AD80BD1@AlexPC> <6F7D5080E0F64E13992A93E451685757@BobPC> Message-ID: <001901cc10ac$6f478840$4dd698c0$@comcast.net> Dave, it cross matches I know with a WIX 51516, or Purolator L20195; I have also been hearing very good info about Mann filters as NAPA is going more & more with cheaper imports that may be impacting their gold statndard-Regards, Joe This email message and any attachments are for the sole use of the intended recipient(s). They are confidential and may contain protected health information that is exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If you are not the above named intended recipient, or the employee or agent responsible to deliver this email to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any use, disclosure, printing, copying, or distribution of this email or attachments is strictly prohibited. If you have received this email in error, please immediately notify the sender by telephone or reply email and destroy this email and any attachments. Please consider the environment before printing this email. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Sent: Thursday, May 12, 2011 7:41 AM To: *Six Pack; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Napa Oil Filter the napa guy told me that wix makes the napa filters; drop the first # from the wix and you have the napa #, although that doesn't seem entirely consistent with the list here -----Original Message----- From: Bob Danielson Sent: Thursday, May 12, 2011 6:41 AM To: Alex ; *Triumphs List ; *Six Pack ; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Napa Oil Filter There's two NAPA Gold that fit. The 1516 fits most cars and the 1361 is a little shorter in case the frame interferes. Here's the complete list: AC PF-56 AC PF952 (short) AC Delco Ultraguard Gold UPFL-400A Bosch 72-143 Bosch 72129 (short) Bosch 72161 CarQuest 85516 Champion C104 (short) Crosland 529 (short) Fram PH3512 (short) Fram PH-3600 (Fram PH-3614) Full PH-400 Halfords HOF200 (short) K&N HP-2009 Kralinator L38 Lee LF-42 Mann W719/36 Mobil-1 M1-209 Moss 235-950 Motaquip VFL123 (short) Motorcraft FL-276 Motorcraft FL-313 (short) Motorcraft FL400A NAPA Gold 1516 NAPA Gold 1361 Purolator L10101 (short) (was PER 101) Purolator L20064 Purolator L20195 Sears 45197 STP SO-400 Unipart GFE173 (short) Unipart GFE443 Wix 51335 (short) Wix 51516 _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/j.honor at comcast.net From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Thu May 12 10:42:30 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 12 May 2011 09:42:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] Purely Subjective Question re. TR3A Valve Settings In-Reply-To: <580160862.555582.1305155326690.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1754623228.555501.1305155176147.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <580160862.555582.1305155326690.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <0eb801cc10c3$95ec72f0$0301a8c0@randall> > Just curious if anyone cares to venture: what would be the > loss of power due to poor breathing, if one (omigoodness, not > me, no--not me!) were to, say, adjust the valves > properly...well, except when the engine had not yet cooled > more than halfway. IMO, you're not likely to notice the difference, except for maybe a bit more valve noise. As someone already mentioned, you might wind up a few thousandths too loose, which will have little or no effect on performance (assuming a stock camshaft). But I suspect that "halfway" cooled is cool enough. By then all the components should be close to the same temperature, meaning the expansion in the head and block will just about match that of the valve train components. -- Randall From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu May 12 12:58:16 2011 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 12 May 2011 14:58:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Napa Oil Filter In-Reply-To: <001901cc10ac$6f478840$4dd698c0$@comcast.net> References: <6D8BB91C8E654BBBAF036B461AD80BD1@AlexPC> <6F7D5080E0F64E13992A93E451685757@BobPC> <001901cc10ac$6f478840$4dd698c0$@comcast.net> Message-ID: <9613A4575F594B6B95371BF473B3E032@BobPC> Regarding the statement below ".........NAPA is going more & more with cheaper imports that may be impacting their gold". I checked with Rick Patton (TA Repair Kit, Fan Eliminator Kit, TBI Kit) who owned two NAPA stores before retiring last year. Rick told me that NAPA Gold is still made by WIX but the ProSelect & NASCAR line are not made by WIX and are lower priced. So let's not lump the Gold filter in with the other two. Bob Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 1975 TR6 with: Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff & CVJs -----Original Message----- From: Joe Honor Sent: Thursday, May 12, 2011 9:56 AM To: 'Dave' ; '*Six Pack' ; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Napa Oil Filter Dave, it cross matches I know with a WIX 51516, or Purolator L20195; I have also been hearing very good info about Mann filters as NAPA is going more & more with cheaper imports that may be impacting their gold statndard-Regards, Joe From hdrider570 at att.net Thu May 12 15:16:14 2011 From: hdrider570 at att.net (Q) Date: Thu, 12 May 2011 14:16:14 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Purely Subjective Question re. TR3A Valve Settings In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <50019.27628.qm@web83807.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I would agree with Randal on this one. I have in the past set valves in the warm condition and checked later when cold and they read the same. I think the important thing is that all the components are about the same temperature as they are all made of similar materials. Edward Hamer Petaluma CA From mark at bradakis.com Mon May 16 15:02:58 2011 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 16 May 2011 15:02:58 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Once more Message-ID: <4DD19102.50704@bradakis.com> Testing, Juan Too. mjb. From mark at bradakis.com Mon May 16 15:16:58 2011 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 16 May 2011 15:16:58 -0600 Subject: [TR] Back on the air Message-ID: <4DD1944A.6030708@bradakis.com> Looks like triumphs list is back in business. Had a problem with a defective UPS that provided the Team.Net server with 0.0 seconds of backup power during a momentary outage. When the mail server is running it has hundreds, if not thousands of open files, incomplete writes and such. Going down hard with no warning tends to mess up some of those files. I've been working on tracking down and fixing them as best I can. mjb. From gasket.works at gte.net Mon May 16 15:20:20 2011 From: gasket.works at gte.net (gasket.works at gte.net) Date: Mon, 16 May 2011 21:20:20 +0000 Subject: [TR] [Fot] Once more Message-ID: <1366660990-1305580817-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-2039004310-@b18.c8.bise6.blackberry> Threes ------Original Message------ From: Mark J Bradakis Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net To: Triumphs Subject: [Fot] Once more Sent: May 16, 2011 2:02 PM Testing, Juan Too. mjb. _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/gasket.works at gte.net Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile From charly at mitchelplumbing.com Thu May 19 12:07:26 2011 From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel) Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 11:07:26 -0700 Subject: [TR] [TR2000] Idle By Pass Diaphragms References: <14e95.6eeab6e7.3b060939@aol.com> Message-ID: <22DC0B09B9C84CF1BE1811A0FF952581@Charly> This may have the answer you're looking for. http://www.sucarb.co.uk/ProductCategory.aspx?ParentId=24 Charly Mitchel ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Cc: Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2011 10:48 PM Subject: [TR2000] Idle By Pass Diaphragms > Does anyone know if the idle by-pass valves are the same for the CD 175 > and > the CD 150 Stromberg carbs? > > TIA > Sam Clark > Green Country Triumphs > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/charly at mitchelplumbing.com > > From mark at bradakis.com Sun May 22 10:39:00 2011 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sun, 22 May 2011 10:39:00 -0600 Subject: [TR] Testing Message-ID: <4DD93C24.6060200@bradakis.com> Trying to get this list back on the air. Still needs work. mjb. From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun May 22 10:49:50 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 22 May 2011 09:49:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] Testing In-Reply-To: <4DD93C24.6060200@bradakis.com> References: <4DD93C24.6060200@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <08a801cc18a0$447df080$0301a8c0@randall> > Trying to get this list back on the air. Still needs work. Looks good from here. In fact, it's working so well that there is already a message archived from next August ! http://www.team.net/mharc/archives/html/triumphs/2011-08 PS, Thanks for all your hard work! -- Randall From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sun May 22 11:05:03 2011 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sun, 22 May 2011 13:05:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] Testing In-Reply-To: <4DD93C24.6060200@bradakis.com> References: <4DD93C24.6060200@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <201105221305.04524.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Sunday, May 22, 2011 12:39:00 pm Mark J Bradakis wrote: > Trying to get this list back on the air. Still needs work. > > mjb. > > Mark, Good to hear from you. My 6 pack email landed in your lap yesterday. I guess it is a problem with the server not my email account? This list seems to be ok. I received Randall's message ok. Bob From rawanderer at comcast.net Sun May 22 11:10:57 2011 From: rawanderer at comcast.net (Bob Wanderer) Date: Sun, 22 May 2011 17:10:57 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] 1973 TR6 In-Reply-To: <506421.46476.qm@web120212.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1318734906.813285.1306084257316.JavaMail.root@sz0133a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Frank, I've a '74, but expect the '73 is the same. Going from memory, it should be on the radio console and just below the radio--centered. The idiogram looks like sun's rays radiating downward. BobW Montgomeryville, Pa. (suburban Philadelphia) 1974 Pimento TR6 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Frank Fisher" To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Saturday, May 21, 2011 7:43:25 PM Subject: [TR] 1973 TR6 we have a problem with a friends TR6. the illumination lamps that come on when you open the doors are staying on. trying to trace and see if there is short some place. slow difficult process. checked and disabled the 2 door switches. the wire diagram we have says there is a "footwell lamp switch". where is this switch and what does it look like? thanks Frank triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rawanderer at comcast.net Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun May 22 14:06:09 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 22 May 2011 13:06:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] A Type Overdrive In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <08f101cc18bb$b17d9490$0301a8c0@randall> > The overdrive does not engage until the lever is at the 12 > o'clock position over to about the 2 o'clock position, in > spite of the fact that when I tested it dry the valve moved > up with the lever in the extreme left position. I am not > sure I understand that. The lever should have a 3/16" hole in it. There is a matching hole in the case such that when the holes are lined up (so you can slide the shank of a 3/16" drill bit through both holes), the valve should be in the engaged position. This should hold the ball off it's seat by only a small amount, on the order of 1/32". Sometimes the lever and/or valve rod get worn until the holes are no longer accurate, but that is a reference point to start from. The actual lever motion from disengaged to engaged is quite small, no more than 3/16" or so. > Now, with the motor running and the transmission in third > gear there is so much pressure that the solenoid is not > strong enough to pull up on the drivers side lever to engage > the overdrive. There are several possibilities. Assuming you have checked that the solenoid plunger is really not moving into the solenoid, the most common is that the pull-in contacts inside the end cap of the solenoid are dirty and not making contact, so the pull-in coil is not activating. Or the pull-in coil could be bad. (They overheat easily if the plunger doesn't bottom and open the contacts.) Another possibility is that the lower stop for the plunger is missing, and the plunger has fallen too far out of the solenoid. Easy way to tell the difference is to measure the current draw; the pull-in coil draws roughly 20 amps, while the holding coil only draws about one amp. If the plunger is going all the way into the solenoid, then likely the operating lever is slipping on the shaft. The pinch bolt has to be really tight to hold, due to the large force and impact it has to deal with. -- Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun May 22 15:41:22 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 22 May 2011 14:41:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] Headlight/Control Head questions - TR3A In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <094901cc18c8$fed80ec0$0301a8c0@randall> > I have the original 2 adjuster buckets on my headlights but > bought new inner retainers and the outer retainers as well as > new rims, I'm using the PL700s also. When I snap the trim > ring in place the top and sides fit nice, however there's > maybe a 1/2" - 3/4" gap at the bottom, any ideas for a flush fit? Sounds like you aren't getting the tab at the bottom pushed into it's clip. On my 3A, I found that I had to use a thin piece of metal to slide between the rim and headlight, to push directly on the tab. Otherwise it bends instead of going into the clip. > When I > got the car back the key (slot) in the stator that lines up > with the control head is at about 11:00 and not straight up, > so when I snug it down, the "off" blinker position is now at 11:00. You need to loosen the 'gland' nut on the front of the steering box, turn the stator tube to the correct position, and retighten the nut. Sorry, no idea about the gap. Could you rebuilt your original head, using the new plastic from the repro ? -- Randall From tr3 at roadrunner.com Sun May 22 15:52:06 2011 From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (Hans de Ferrante) Date: Sun, 22 May 2011 14:52:06 -0700 Subject: [TR] Testing Message-ID: Sure glad to see the list back on again. I missed it. Thanks, Mark. Did it get hijacked? The only list message i got was from some "very honest and very clean" civil engineer in London with a business proposition to make me a lot of money. Hope one of you guys is not going to beat me out on it because now, maybe, I can buy that restored XKE, I always wanted. Hans From dlylis at gmail.com Sun May 22 17:19:57 2011 From: dlylis at gmail.com (dlylis at gmail.com) Date: Sun, 22 May 2011 23:19:57 +0000 Subject: [TR] 1000 mile report on Herman's HVDA Transmission conversion In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <619406797-1306106397-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-6896580-@b14.c12.bise6.blackberry> Me too. Great guy! Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T -----Original Message----- From: Chris Simo Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.netDate: Mon, 16 May 2011 19:14:44 To: list Triumph Subject: [TR] 1000 mile report on Herman's HVDA Transmission conversion triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlylis at gmail.com Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From dlylis at gmail.com Sun May 22 17:22:53 2011 From: dlylis at gmail.com (dlylis at gmail.com) Date: Sun, 22 May 2011 23:22:53 +0000 Subject: [TR] A Type Overdrive In-Reply-To: <08f101cc18bb$b17d9490$0301a8c0@randall> References: <08f101cc18bb$b17d9490$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <1349758603-1306106572-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1074157948-@b14.c12.bise6.blackberry> Randall, Thanks. Turned out that the solenoid I ordered from TRF was defective. Has been replaced. Works fine. Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T -----Original Message----- From: "Randall" Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.netDate: Sun, 22 May 2011 13:06:09 To: 'email list' Subject: Re: [TR] A Type Overdrive > The overdrive does not engage until the lever is at the 12 > o'clock position over to about the 2 o'clock position, in > spite of the fact that when I tested it dry the valve moved > up with the lever in the extreme left position. I am not > sure I understand that. The lever should have a 3/16" hole in it. There is a matching hole in the case such that when the holes are lined up (so you can slide the shank of a 3/16" drill bit through both holes), the valve should be in the engaged position. This should hold the ball off it's seat by only a small amount, on the order of 1/32". Sometimes the lever and/or valve rod get worn until the holes are no longer accurate, but that is a reference point to start from. The actual lever motion from disengaged to engaged is quite small, no more than 3/16" or so. > Now, with the motor running and the transmission in third > gear there is so much pressure that the solenoid is not > strong enough to pull up on the drivers side lever to engage > the overdrive. There are several possibilities. Assuming you have checked that the solenoid plunger is really not moving into the solenoid, the most common is that the pull-in contacts inside the end cap of the solenoid are dirty and not making contact, so the pull-in coil is not activating. Or the pull-in coil could be bad. (They overheat easily if the plunger doesn't bottom and open the contacts.) Another possibility is that the lower stop for the plunger is missing, and the plunger has fallen too far out of the solenoid. Easy way to tell the difference is to measure the current draw; the pull-in coil draws roughly 20 amps, while the holding coil only draws about one amp. If the plunger is going all the way into the solenoid, then likely the operating lever is slipping on the shaft. The pinch bolt has to be really tight to hold, due to the large force and impact it has to deal with. -- Randall triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dlylis at gmail.com Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From guy at genfiniti.com Sun May 22 18:17:29 2011 From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins) Date: Sun, 22 May 2011 19:17:29 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4A - Wiper Blade Removal Message-ID: All, I recently bought some replacement wiper blades from Moss. When I went to install them, I realized I do not know how to remove the old ones. Can someone tell me how to remove the wiper blades? It seems like there should be a tab or something, that I can depress, thus allowing me to slide them off the arm. Cheers, Guy D. Huggins 1965 Triumph TR4A CTC 63569LO Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun May 22 19:24:08 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 22 May 2011 18:24:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] Where does it go? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <09a501cc18e8$1d62df40$0301a8c0@randall> I'm missing something, Carl. What is wrong with the original location, on the little shelf behind the horn mounts ? FWIW, I've not had real good luck with those original ground clips. Instead I use a short length of black wire, with a 1/4" ring terminal under a horn bolt; plus a bullet and 4-way sleeve at the other end. The horn bolt makes more positive contact with the body, and the vinyl sleeve reduces corrosion. -- Randall From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Sun May 22 19:52:00 2011 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (suhringtr36 at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 01:52:00 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Fwd: Dzuz Aluminum Bonnet Grommet In-Reply-To: <1535348428.3081536.1306115346172.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <832110861.3081652.1306115520297.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> ----- Forwarded Message ----- From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net To: "Alex" Sent: Sunday, May 22, 2011 9:49:06 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Dzuz Aluminum Bonnet Grommet Alex: I tried the way the instructions showed and there was no way I was going to use two hammers with the likelyhood to damaging the hood. I ended up using a deep c-clam and two sockets, one that fits the top piece without it touching the hiood and the other for the engie bay side that is slightly larger than the post so it pushes in on the washer until it catches the grove. Scott ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alex" To: "*Triumphs List" Sent: Friday, May 20, 2011 4:57:15 PM Subject: [TR] Dzuz Aluminum Bonnet Grommet Need to install the aluminum grommet for the dzuz fastener on the bonnet. What is the correct way to flare the grommet under the hood to lock it in? ? Also, what is the best way to lock the washer to the fastener? TIA, Alex Manzo 59TR3A triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/suhringtr36 at comcast.net Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Sun May 22 19:56:34 2011 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (suhringtr36 at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 01:56:34 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Headlight/Control Head questions - TR3A In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1198487871.3081824.1306115794190.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Dave: I have run into the exact same problem with my headlight. I have tried everything and have not been able to get it to fit. I have an original bucket on the other side it it fits fine. So, I have located a spare original bucket and just got the adjuster screw replacements and the clip and will see if this resolves the issue. I did measure the diameter of the original bucket compared to the repro and the repro is a 1/16" wider, which could be the problem. We'll see. Scott Suring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3A ----- Original Message ----- From: "davewillner" To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, May 22, 2011 5:28:10 PM Subject: [TR] Headlight/Control Head questions - TR3A Just got my?TR3 back from paint last week and have begun trying to remember where everything goes... Making pretty good progress, but have a few questions... ? I have the original 2 adjuster buckets on my headlights but bought new inner retainers and the outer retainers as well as new rims, I'm using the PL700s also. When I snap the trim ring in place the top and sides fit nice, however there's maybe a 1/2" - 3/4" gap at the bottom, any ideas for a flush fit? ? Also I purchased a repro control head from TRF and its for a non-adjustable wheel/column, I have a split column. When I got the car back the key (slot)?in the stator that lines up with the control head is at about 11:00 and not straight up, so when I snug it down, the "off" blinker position is now?at 11:00. ? The other problem, and this may be a bad part, is that there is probably a 3/8" gap between the wheel and the control head that looks real bad, the plate on the control head?is resting against the 3 stops on the wheel as its supposed and the set screws secure it fine...is that typical of these after markets? ? Thanks ? Dave Willner Stroudsburg PA 59 TR3A 70 MGB 70 BSA 441 VS From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sun May 22 21:10:15 2011 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sun, 22 May 2011 23:10:15 -0400 Subject: [TR] Where does it go? In-Reply-To: <09a501cc18e8$1d62df40$0301a8c0@randall> References: <09a501cc18e8$1d62df40$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: Ah, did not realize that was where they went. Didn't see a hole. Will look again. Your solution may be a good alternative. The wire could come all the way out to the edge of the shroud. Thanks C -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Sunday, May 22, 2011 9:24 PM To: 'TR List ' Subject: Re: [TR] Where does it go? I'm missing something, Carl. What is wrong with the original location, on the little shelf behind the horn mounts ? FWIW, I've not had real good luck with those original ground clips. Instead I use a short length of black wire, with a 1/4" ring terminal under a horn bolt; plus a bullet and 4-way sleeve at the other end. The horn bolt makes more positive contact with the body, and the vinyl sleeve reduces corrosion. -- Randall triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun May 22 22:12:44 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 22 May 2011 21:12:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] [Fot] GT6 Alternator In-Reply-To: <57fe6.274bf77.3b0b2c27@aol.com> References: <57fe6.274bf77.3b0b2c27@aol.com> Message-ID: <09e001cc18ff$aae3ba80$0301a8c0@randall> It means except a "Mk I" GT6 (except of course it wasn't called "Mk I", just "GT6"). And that is because the early ones had a generator instead of an alternator. If you look earlier in the book, I think you'll find the generator section marked "GT6 only". -- Randall From dwillner at ptd.net Mon May 23 06:20:36 2011 From: dwillner at ptd.net (davewillner) Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 08:20:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] Headlight/Control Head questions - TR3A References: <1198487871.3081824.1306115794190.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <29AABCF01B2C4788B5837B1C6EAB83FA@valued9cfc0b6f> I was thinking, the rim I bought (either TRF or Moss, not sure) has the lower tab riveted on towards the rear of the rim, I know Moss sells the "tab" separate. Maybe drilling out the old tab and riveting in more towards the front of the rim might compensate...then a little fine tuning with the adjuster screws might help...I'm going to try on a spare and to see and will keep you posted. Thanks Scott Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "davewillner" Cc: Sent: Sunday, May 22, 2011 9:56 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Headlight/Control Head questions - TR3A Dave: I have run into the exact same problem with my headlight. I have tried everything and have not been able to get it to fit. I have an original bucket on the other side it it fits fine. So, I have located a spare original bucket and just got the adjuster screw replacements and the clip and will see if this resolves the issue. I did measure the diameter of the original bucket compared to the repro and the repro is a 1/16" wider, which could be the problem. We'll see. Scott Suring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3A ----- Original Message ----- From: "davewillner" To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, May 22, 2011 5:28:10 PM Subject: [TR] Headlight/Control Head questions - TR3A Just got my TR3 back from paint last week and have begun trying to remember where everything goes... Making pretty good progress, but have a few questions... I have the original 2 adjuster buckets on my headlights but bought new inner retainers and the outer retainers as well as new rims, I'm using the PL700s also. When I snap the trim ring in place the top and sides fit nice, however there's maybe a 1/2" - 3/4" gap at the bottom, any ideas for a flush fit? Also I purchased a repro control head from TRF and its for a non-adjustable wheel/column, I have a split column. When I got the car back the key (slot) in the stator that lines up with the control head is at about 11:00 and not straight up, so when I snug it down, the "off" blinker position is now at 11:00. The other problem, and this may be a bad part, is that there is probably a 3/8" gap between the wheel and the control head that looks real bad, the plate on the control head is resting against the 3 stops on the wheel as its supposed and the set screws secure it fine...is that typical of these after markets? Thanks Dave Willner Stroudsburg PA 59 TR3A 70 MGB 70 BSA 441 VS From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Mon May 23 08:42:09 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 07:42:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] Headlight/Control Head questions - TR3A In-Reply-To: <29AABCF01B2C4788B5837B1C6EAB83FA@valued9cfc0b6f> References: <1198487871.3081824.1306115794190.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <29AABCF01B2C4788B5837B1C6EAB83FA@valued9cfc0b6f> Message-ID: <0a4c01cc1957$98873a30$0301a8c0@randall> Might not be related, but the first pair of trim rings I got from TRF actually had the tabs in the wrong location. They confirmed that the entire lot was defective, and promptly replaced them. -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon May 23 13:51:08 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 12:51:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] Sealing methods for TR2 and TR3 transmission covers/ doghouse In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <120301cc1982$c2c36550$484a2ff0$@rr.com> > Appealing to the collective wisdom of the list -- what is the best way > to seal the tunnell when I replace it? I use ordinary "adhesive caulk" from Home Depot. Easy to apply, seals very well (no oil through the seams) and cleans up easily next time I remove the tunnel. Drawbacks are that it's a bit messy to apply, and it can be a little hard to get the tunnel out next time. -- Randall From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Mon May 23 14:56:08 2011 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 16:56:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] FW: advice - restoration frustration! Part 1 of 2. Message-ID: History:? When I purchase the seat kits for the TR3 project I thought I ordered the dash and capping material but evidently not.??? I requested samples from several of the usual suppliers (and others) but none matched the 8 year old seats/trim panels. Two different local upholsterers (who work on American antique/classics) said that they had had great success with a supplier who could match vinyl.?? I contacted them.?? They sent samples of their in-stock but it wasn?t close. They said that they could ?exactly match? my sample in 2-4 weeks.? I placed the order on Feb 7 (cc processed on Feb? 9). Beginning in mid-March I started calling and received responses such as ?we are working on it? or ?it will be next week? etc.? Finally, about Apr 20, they said they would check and call me the next day.? That night I received a UPS notice that a package had been shipped from them. Next... Carl Musson 1961 TR3A TS81802LO From keithstewart at execulink.com Mon May 23 15:49:54 2011 From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart) Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 17:49:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Rear End Clunk In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: A little help from TR6 owners please. I have a TR3 and a TR4 but lately have been looking to purchase a TR6. I recently looked at one quite a distance from where I live but have a concern about a clunk in the rear. When both I and the owner drove it, there was a mild clunk coming from the rear when engaging the clutch from a standstill and when I drove it, sometimes when shifting gears just before engaging the next gear. It seemed similar to what I have experienced when one of my cars needed a new universal joint. The owner indicated that he understood from other TR6 owners that "...that was the way TR6s were". He tells me the universal joints and the differential mounts were replaced . From what I have read, this might relate to worn diff mounts that lead to cracks in the frame where they mount. Since the diff mounts were replaced, it shouldn't be worn diff joints. What is the wisdom of the list relative to this rear-end clunk? Keith R. Stewart 75 Camden Road London, Ontario N5X 2K2 Home: (519) 660-1916 E-Mail: keithstewart at execulink.com From keithstewart at execulink.com Mon May 23 16:05:44 2011 From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart) Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 18:05:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] Dzuz Aluminum Bonnet Grommet In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6012E202-4DB3-45CC-AE8E-1E7FEA783CA4@execulink.com> Need to install the aluminum grommet for the dzuz fastener on the bonnet. What is the correct way to flare the grommet under the hood to lock it in? ? ++++++++++ What about a stove bolt with taper head to give the taper and a washer and nut on the other side to gradually pull the two pieces together? Keith R. Stewart 75 Camden Road London, Ontario N5X 2K2 Home: (519) 660-1916 E-Mail: keithstewart at execulink.com From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon May 23 16:25:59 2011 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 18:25:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Rear End Clunk In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Most likely a cracked diff mount which is very common. Normally the right front one is the first to go. When mine went, my wife said it felt as if the noise was right under her seat. Usually an experienced welder can fix them with out too much trouble. About half way down this page (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/DiffMounts.htm) you'll see the cracks in mine that caused the clunk........and I only found these after doing some serious work with a wire brush i.e. they don't have to be big obvious cracks to make noise. I ended up boxing in the front and rear to eliminate any future problems. The axle splines can also make a "similar" noise. There are far better reasons then a broken diff mount or noisy axle splines to run away from a TR6. I'd focus on frame rust, TA attachment points, tee-shirt area and body rust. Bob Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 1975 TR6 with: Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff & CVJs -----Original Message----- From: Keith Stewart Sent: Monday, May 23, 2011 5:49 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR6 Rear End Clunk A little help from TR6 owners please. I have a TR3 and a TR4 but lately have been looking to purchase a TR6. I recently looked at one quite a distance from where I live but have a concern about a clunk in the rear. When both I and the owner drove it, there was a mild clunk coming from the rear when engaging the clutch from a standstill and when I drove it, sometimes when shifting gears just before engaging the next gear. It seemed similar to what I have experienced when one of my cars needed a new universal joint. The owner indicated that he understood from other TR6 owners that "...that was the way TR6s were". He tells me the universal joints and the differential mounts were replaced . From what I have read, this might relate to worn diff mounts that lead to cracks in the frame where they mount. Since the diff mounts were replaced, it shouldn't be worn diff joints. What is the wisdom of the list relative to this rear-end clunk? Keith R. Stewart 75 Camden Road London, Ontario N5X 2K2 Home: (519) 660-1916 E-Mail: keithstewart at execulink.com From anabil007 at comcast.net Mon May 23 17:42:27 2011 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 16:42:27 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 Rear End Clunk In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Probably worn splines or u-joints on the half-shafts ... fought this for some time finally put in the GoodParts CV half-shafts ... problem solved. You should also plan to reinforce the mount ... good kit for that available (if you can weld) >A little help from TR6 owners please. I have a TR3 and a TR4 but >lately have been looking to purchase a TR6. I recently looked at one >quite a distance from where I live but have a concern about a clunk >in the rear. When both I and the owner drove it, there was a mild >clunk coming from the rear when engaging the clutch from a >standstill and when I drove it, sometimes when shifting gears just >before engaging the next gear. It seemed similar to what I have >experienced when one of my cars needed a new universal joint. The >owner indicated that he understood from other TR6 owners that >"...that was the way TR6s were". He tells me the universal joints >and the differential mounts were replaced . From what I have read, >this might relate to worn diff mounts that lead to cracks in the >frame where they mount. Since the diff mounts were replaced, it >shouldn't be worn diff joints. What is the wisdom of the list >relative to this rear-end clunk? > >Keith R. Stewart >75 Camden Road >London, Ontario >N5X 2K2 >Home: (519) 660-1916 >E-Mail: keithstewart at execulink.com -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA From keithstewart at execulink.com Mon May 23 18:26:28 2011 From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart) Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 20:26:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Rear End Clunk In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2D1C69BE-5E12-487E-A8FF-62F24E1025AC@execulink.com> Thanks for the information Bob. I have seen most of the contents of your Web page - it is a great resource. Body is great. Parts of the frame I could easily see were fine. Your comments are greatly appreciated. Keith R. Stewart 75 Camden Road London, Ontario N5X 2K2 Home: (519) 660-1916 E-Mail: keithstewart at execulink.com On 2011-05-23, at 6:25 PM, Bob Danielson wrote: > Most likely a cracked diff mount which is very common. Normally the right front one is the first to go. When mine went, my wife said it felt as if the noise was right under her seat. Usually an experienced welder can fix them with out too much trouble. About half way down this page (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/DiffMounts.htm) you'll see the cracks in mine that caused the clunk........and I only found these after doing some serious work with a wire brush i.e. they don't have to be big obvious cracks to make noise. I ended up boxing in the front and rear to eliminate any future problems. The axle splines can also make a "similar" noise. > > There are far better reasons then a broken diff mount or noisy axle splines to run away from a TR6. I'd focus on frame rust, TA attachment points, tee-shirt area and body rust. > > Bob > > > Bob Danielson > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > 1975 TR6 with: > Throttle Body Injection > Toyota 5 Speed > Nissan Diff & CVJs > From keithstewart at execulink.com Mon May 23 18:33:03 2011 From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart) Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 20:33:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Rear End Clunk In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <63EB22AC-FF57-48B9-BBD4-646CB38EFA7A@execulink.com> Thanks Bill. Very helpful. Keith R. Stewart 75 Camden Road London, Ontario N5X 2K2 Home: (519) 660-1916 E-Mail: keithstewart at execulink.com On 2011-05-23, at 7:42 PM, Bill wrote: > Probably worn splines or u-joints on the half-shafts ... fought this for some time finally put in the GoodParts CV half-shafts ... problem solved. > > You should also plan to reinforce the mount ... good kit for that available (if you can weld) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon May 23 19:46:08 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 23 May 2011 18:46:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] Turn signal question In-Reply-To: <61B3633175EE44BD80DB19C213E8BA8B@userb38463fba5> References: <61B3633175EE44BD80DB19C213E8BA8B@userb38463fba5> Message-ID: <128501cc19b4$5ad04cb0$1070e610$@rr.com> Yes, it should still flash without the panel lamp. And you're right, the flasher should have power whenever the key is on. In fact, the output of the flasher stays hot, until the turn signal switch connects the bulbs (and then it should start flashing). -- Randall From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Tue May 24 05:25:51 2011 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Tue, 24 May 2011 07:25:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] FW: FW: advice - restoration frustration! Part 2 of 2. Message-ID: Continued . When it came, it didn?t match my sample but did match the in-stock sample they sent in January.?? I called the next day.? The lady who answered acknowledged that the item shipped wasn't right.? She asked me to call back the next day so that she could check it out.?? I called but she was out.? That night I had a voice mail from someone else saying that they would get the correct material out to me in about a week and pick up the incorrect package.?? Today (two weeks later) I called and was told again ?check back in a week?. I have purposely omitted the company name ? but I am asking what the consensus is on what I should do??? According to the bank, it is past the dispute period but since the purchased item has not been received, they may still consider reversing the charge.? I'll do that next week if necessary. I don?t want to jeopardize receiving the vinyl (hopefully it will match) ? but I don?t know what to do. Your thoughts? Carl Musson 1961 TR3A TS81802LO From wbeech at flash.net Tue May 24 08:15:52 2011 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Tue, 24 May 2011 08:15:52 -0600 Subject: [TR] FW: FW: advice - restoration frustration! Part 2 of 2. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Carl, Call you supplier and talk to the owner/president and tell him the whole story, including that the bank is planning on reversing charges. (I am surprised that the supplier billed your card this long before shipping). I had a similar problem with TRF,(only an 18 months gap) but they found the correct shade of red and got it to me in the stated time period. Moral of the story: Wait for a good sale and buy EVERYTHING from the same reputable guy at the same time. Having spent many years in the fabric & upholstery biz I know that even the exact same product from the same manufacturer can vary in shade between orders due to slight variances in dye lots. Don't know what your car colors are, but is it possible to go with some interesting contrasting color? Best of luck in your quest, Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl TR Sent: Tuesday, May 24, 2011 5:26 AM To: TR List Subject: [TR] FW: FW: advice - restoration frustration! Part 2 of 2. Continued . When it came, it didn?t match my sample but did match the in-stock sample they sent in January.?? I called the next day.? The lady who answered acknowledged that the item shipped wasn't right.? She asked me to call back the next day so that she could check it out.?? I called but she was out. That night I had a voice mail from someone else saying that they would get the correct material out to me in about a week and pick up the incorrect package.?? Today (two weeks later) I called and was told again ?check back in a week?. I have purposely omitted the company name ? but I am asking what the consensus is on what I should do??? According to the bank, it is past the dispute period but since the purchased item has not been received, they may still consider reversing the charge.? I'll do that next week if necessary. I don?t want to jeopardize receiving the vinyl (hopefully it will match) ? but I don?t know what to do. Your thoughts? Carl Musson 1961 TR3A TS81802LO triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Tue May 24 11:08:14 2011 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net) Date: Tue, 24 May 2011 12:08:14 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Fwd: Re: Re: FW: FW: advice - restoration frustration! Part 2 of 2. Message-ID: <898952654.5684763.1306256894842.JavaMail.root@vznit170080> I just sent this as RTF - so it may not make it through the filters...... resending in plain text. sorry As I said in my earlier emails - I thought I had ordered all at the same time. what I thought were the kits were left over (non-matching) pieces from other projects. I tried all of the usual suspects to match that seat/trim kit - to no avail. I did receive another possibility for sample/color matching yesterday but until I get some resolution with this particular supplier I am just frustrated and 'flapping in the wind'. I did talk with the owner as well as the shop manager - they know of my frustration and say that they understand. It just 'takes time to get it right'. For that reason I am not going to pull the plug on this effort - at least not yet. To some degree, since it is the cappings and dash, if they aren't 100% perfect (but reasonably close - i.e. same graining/slightly different color), there will be enough of a separation and consistency (all of the cappings & dash) that it won't be discernable to most. Thanks to all that did respond It is great having the list back and operational. I was beginning to go through withdrawal... Carl From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Tue May 24 11:25:16 2011 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net) Date: Tue, 24 May 2011 12:25:16 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Costs Message-ID: <2077427312.5685386.1306257916475.JavaMail.root@vznit170080> While I have been delayed on the project, I decided to empty the drawer and put all of my receipts and other notes into a spreadsheet. I was surprised at the outcome. So to gloat: I paid just over $4,200 for the project including the cost of transport. Have put about $6,500 into body work, powder coating, painting, materials Another $5,500 in new parts I have sold just under $2,000 in surplus parts I am certain that I didn't track every "I need a 5/8 UNF bolt' run to the hardware store but plugged in $500 (i did have receipts for $390) for all of those. For a total investment/cost to date of $14,400. I had the 1999 TRF price list in a database format; I listed each part that I inventoried when I bought the project at 80% of that value plus the actual cost of the new expenditures and came up with a total of $39,492. This includes the completely rebuilt engine and new in box A-type overdrive that were part of the original project purchase. I feel pretty good about the outcome. (of course I didn't include the $11,000 garage extension LOL) I expect to spend about another $1500-2000 before it is done but I also have boxes of used (and some new) parts that I didn't inventory. At somepoint those will be available for sale. (for instance I have a set of new 86mm pistons still in their wrappings). So - sometime this summer - I will be back on the road after a 10 year hiatus. From dkspence at telus.net Tue May 24 13:11:19 2011 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence) Date: Tue, 24 May 2011 13:11:19 -0600 Subject: [TR] Alberta All British Field Meet; June 11, 2011 in Edmonton Alberta In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <091DC134-6689-42DE-A470-79FE656CB73A@telus.net> The Alberta All British Motoring Society is please to present the Alberta All British Field Meet on Saturday June 11 in Victoria Park in Edmonton Alberta Canada. All are welcome, no fees, no prizes except people's choice. Come one come all. For out of towners, the event coincides with the Reynolds Alberta Museum's "History Road" weekend June 11 and 12. The RAM is located in Wetaskiwin Alberta, 45 minutes south of Edmonton. History Road is a two day show of museum and private cars of all makes and vintages from the dawn of the automotive age to the present. This summers feature exhibition is "Luxury Cars of the Roaring 20's".. ( http:// www.facebook.com/pages/Reynolds-Alberta-Museum/7542224425 ) If you plan to be in western canada, make the trek north where the days are long and the sun is strong. Details on Facebook at "Alberta Allbritish" Video from the 2009 event http://vimeo.com/5053694 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue May 24 15:03:26 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 24 May 2011 14:03:26 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumph Stag FS in Utah Message-ID: <13be01cc1a56$07dfd140$179f73c0$@rr.com> Posted on another list, might be of interest to someone. NFI, etc. http://saltlakecity.craigslist.org/ctd/2369725575.html It would be interesting to know how it got a "5 speed" transmission, since it doesn't appear to have the OD shift knob. Also seems to be missing the carbon canister(s). -- Randall From yellowtr at adelphia.net Tue May 24 15:30:22 2011 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Tue, 24 May 2011 17:30:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] Costs In-Reply-To: <2077427312.5685386.1306257916475.JavaMail.root@vznit170080> References: <2077427312.5685386.1306257916475.JavaMail.root@vznit170080> Message-ID: <201105241730.23534.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Tuesday, May 24, 2011 01:25:16 pm cfmtr3a at verizon.net wrote: > While I have been delayed on the project, I decided to empty the drawer and > put all of my receipts and other notes into a spreadsheet. I was > surprised at the outcome. So to gloat: > I paid just over $4,200 for the project including the cost of transport. > Have put about $6,500 into body work, powder coating, painting, materials > Another $5,500 in new parts > I have sold just under $2,000 in surplus parts > I am certain that I didn't track every "I need a 5/8 UNF bolt' run to the > hardware store but plugged in $500 (i did have receipts for $390) for all > of those. For a total investment/cost to date of $14,400. > > I had the 1999 TRF price list in a database format; I listed each part that > I inventoried when I bought the project at 80% of that value plus the > actual cost of the new expenditures and came up with a total of $39,492. > This includes the completely rebuilt engine and new in box A-type > overdrive that were part of the original project purchase. I feel > pretty good about the outcome. (of course I didn't include the $11,000 > garage extension LOL) > > I expect to spend about another $1500-2000 before it is done but I also > have boxes of used (and some new) parts that I didn't inventory. At > somepoint those will be available for sale. (for instance I have a set of > new 86mm pistons still in their wrappings). > > So - sometime this summer - I will be back on the road after a 10 year > hiatus. > I did the same thing with my 72 6 project that is almost ready for the road. Parts alone are over 10K. I haven't made a final tally yet but something tells me don't bother. The $ is already spent and since I will never be selling the car it is better that I don't know. Most likely would have been better off just buying a complete recent restoration but I do enjoy restoring these cars. Bob From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue May 24 17:01:18 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 24 May 2011 16:01:18 -0700 Subject: [TR] Costs In-Reply-To: <201105241730.23534.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <2077427312.5685386.1306257916475.JavaMail.root@vznit170080> <201105241730.23534.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <001201cc1a66$7e5667c0$7b033740$@rr.com> > Most likely would have been better off just buying a complete recent > restoration but I do enjoy restoring these cars. Better off how? You would have just spent the money somewhere else, and not had the pleasure of restoring the car. A hobby is something you enjoy. Once it becomes about "making money", it's a profession, not a hobby. -- Randall From dconnitt at fuse.net Tue May 24 18:02:29 2011 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Tue, 24 May 2011 20:02:29 -0400 Subject: [TR] Costs In-Reply-To: <201105241730.23534.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <2077427312.5685386.1306257916475.JavaMail.root@vznit170080> <201105241730.23534.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: I take a different view of the expense of restoring my TR4A. I don't keep ANY receipts.... It's a hobby, not a business (to me anyway). Besides, in my house receipts are another name for a thing called "evidence" LOL Dave Connitt (painting the engine compartment this weekend!!!!) Have a great holiday weekend everyone.. Drive 'em if you can. From thenicholls at verizon.net Tue May 24 19:57:16 2011 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Tue, 24 May 2011 20:57:16 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Costs Message-ID: <1502643675.568418.1306288636631.JavaMail.root@vznit170070> I just have to point out that my wife recently discovered my set of "real" books, and made the comment to me that the TR6 cost more than her 2008 Infiniti G35S. She stated that I needed counseling, and then laughed and gave me a big hug. It does not get better than that. Its not really about the money, right? :) Craig 1972 Triumph TR6 Vienna, VA May 24, 2011 07:05:37 PM, tr3driver at ca.rr.com wrote: > Most likely would have been better off just buying a complete recent > restoration but I do enjoy restoring these cars. Better off how? You would have just spent the money somewhere else, and not had the pleasure of restoring the car. A hobby is something you enjoy. Once it becomes about "making money", it's a profession, not a hobby. -- Randall triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From sumton at sbcglobal.net Tue May 24 21:18:34 2011 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Tue, 24 May 2011 22:18:34 -0500 Subject: [TR] Costs In-Reply-To: <1502643675.568418.1306288636631.JavaMail.root@vznit170070> References: <1502643675.568418.1306288636631.JavaMail.root@vznit170070> Message-ID: <87422E57F82941F6B06A3AD1F470409F@ranteer.local> someone called in to Dr Laura and complained that her husband spent all his free time in the garage. her response: "Do you know how many women out there would trade places with you in a heartbeat?" support the relief effort in Tuscaloosa by buying a Tee shirt at www.PrayForTTown.com -----Original Message----- From: thenicholls at verizon.net Sent: Tuesday, May 24, 2011 8:57 PM To: tr3driver at ca.rr.com Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Costs I just have to point out that my wife recently discovered my set of "real" books, and made the comment to me that the TR6 cost more than her 2008 Infiniti G35S. She stated that I needed counseling, and then laughed and gave me a big hug. It does not get better than that. Its not really about the money, right? :) Craig 1972 Triumph TR6 Vienna, VA From mlang99 at comcast.net Tue May 24 22:26:42 2011 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Tue, 24 May 2011 21:26:42 -0700 Subject: [TR] Alternatives to cluster shaft needle bearings? Message-ID: <4DDC8502.20809@comcast.net> I recently acquired a TR4 speed transmission with A-type overdrive (CT15498). I also got a non overdrive transmission (CT35160) along with it. I have now got the overdrive transmission disassembled on the work bench. The overdrive sun gear thrust washer was in pieces but otherwise the overdrive is in pretty good shape :-). On the other hand, the needle bearings on the first gear end of the cluster shaft came out in little bits and pieces. Probably the reason that this transmission was removed. No broken or chipped gear teeth so most of it looks salvageable. I haven't looked at the race inside of the cluster gear yet but have a hunch that it will need replacing along with the shaft. The other transmission may be a good donor. >From what I have read, the needle bearings are the weak point in these. Have any of you gone the route of bushings rather than needles? Bob Schaller mentions this in his book "More BS about TR's". Are there other alternatives that I should look at or just put the standard caged bearings back in it? I am really looking forwards to swapping out my non-overdrive early TR3 transmission with this! Thanks, Mike TS11544L From sothornton at aol.com Tue May 24 23:15:24 2011 From: sothornton at aol.com (Steve Thornton) Date: Wed, 25 May 2011 00:15:24 -0500 Subject: [TR] Trip for Anniversary Message-ID: <091DD972-29BA-4D83-80A7-68D8111359EE@aol.com> Friends- My wife and I are taking a trip in our Triumph TR 250 to celebrate our 30th anniversary. The trip will take us from Bowling Green, KY through Indiana to West Va, then Virginia and end up back in Kentucky. In all, we will drive more than 2,000 miles in a week. My question to the List is- what tools, supplies and parts do I take? The car was professionally restored in 2008 and has been driven a few thousand miles since then, without incident. It has a Petronix unit installed. To add to the facts, we are staying at some nice hotels, all of which are more than 100 years old. So, with limited space we will pack both casual and nice clothing. Any ideas are welcomed. Steven O. Thornton Attorney at Law 1011 Lehman Avenue Suite 102 Bowling Green, KY 42103 270-781-6630 Sent from my iPhone From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Tue May 24 23:39:30 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 24 May 2011 22:39:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] Trip for Anniversary In-Reply-To: <091DD972-29BA-4D83-80A7-68D8111359EE@aol.com> References: <091DD972-29BA-4D83-80A7-68D8111359EE@aol.com> Message-ID: <0d8201cc1a9e$1f1b2790$0301a8c0@randall> Most important: cell phone & AAA+ card. Beyond that depends on what, realistically, you are willing to do on the side of the road. Fan belt, hoses, fuses, and enough tools to replace them. I like to carry a DMM with clip leads and some extra DOT 5 (because it can be hard to find in stores). Some drinking water is always welcome on long trips, and in an emergency can fill the radiator enough to limp to a filling station. I carry a spare distributor (loaded with cap, rotor, points, wires) in the center of the spare tire (along with the belt & hoses in a zip-lock bag), as well as a backup electric fuel pump. Never needed them myself, but others in the caravan have. (5 of us once spent the better part of a Sunday afternoon roaming around the Oregon countryside, 800 miles from home, looking for a TR4A rotor.) -- Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Tue May 24 23:50:47 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 24 May 2011 22:50:47 -0700 Subject: [TR] Alternatives to cluster shaft needle bearings? In-Reply-To: <4DDC8502.20809@comcast.net> References: <4DDC8502.20809@comcast.net> Message-ID: <0d8601cc1a9f$b2208660$0301a8c0@randall> > The overdrive sun gear thrust washer was in pieces Just as a side note, that seems to be a common failure. Can't prove it, but I strongly suspect it comes from too much end float in the OD. The early books give the desired range as .014" - .020", but the later ones reduce that to .008" - .014". On my OD it was closer to .050" ! Never tried Bob's bushings, but the approach seems sound. -- Randall From pethier at comcast.net Wed May 25 07:41:04 2011 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 25 May 2011 13:41:04 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Trip for Anniversary In-Reply-To: <091DD972-29BA-4D83-80A7-68D8111359EE@aol.com> Message-ID: <903330032.121036.1306330864052.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> If you are not a member of VTR, you need to be. You should carry the VTR roster and "road help" list with you on hard copy. There are folks like me who would hitch up their trailers and come to get you. Sorry I can't help you this trip unless you take the long way through Minnesota... Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack" 2004 Suburban 8.1 2005 Lotus Elise 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://www.mnautox.com ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Steve Thornton" > To: "Bill Richey" , "Bill Davis" , "John Swauger" , > "TR List" , "Randy Phillippi" > Sent: Wednesday, May 25, 2011 12:15:24 AM > Subject: [TR] Trip for Anniversary > > Friends- > > My wife and I are taking a trip in our Triumph TR 250 to celebrate our > 30th anniversary. The trip will take us from Bowling Green, KY through > Indiana to West Va, then Virginia and end up back in Kentucky. In all, > we will drive more than 2,000 miles in a week. > > My question to the List is- what tools, supplies and parts do I take? > The car was professionally restored in 2008 and has been driven a few > thousand miles since then, without incident. It has a Petronix unit > installed. > > To add to the facts, we are staying at some nice hotels, all of which > are more than 100 years old. So, with limited space we will pack both > casual and nice clothing. > > Any ideas are welcomed. > > Steven O. Thornton > Attorney at Law > 1011 Lehman Avenue > Suite 102 > Bowling Green, KY 42103 > > 270-781-6630 > > Sent from my iPhone > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net > > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive From fogbro1 at comcast.net Wed May 25 07:42:46 2011 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 25 May 2011 13:42:46 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Alternatives to cluster shaft needle bearings? In-Reply-To: <4DDC8502.20809@comcast.net> Message-ID: <163440594.1288141.1306330966403.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> List, FWIW, the original layshaft for the all synchro boxes had a hardness of 92 Rockwell. With the exception of TRF's, all of the replacement shafts I had tested?several years ago fell far short of the design spec. Don't know what's being supplied by others today, but TRF's are still made to that spec and in the USA! Additionally, a longer bearing can be used on both the front and rear of the layshaft to provide more support. This replacement is .995" long and has an outer shell. It's not open as originally supplied by Triumph in the later cars. This "shell" can be used to advantage in saving a cluster gear that's been damaged by the open needle bearing configuration: press it in with a bit of Loctite Stud and Bearing Mount. NFI. Ed Woods -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From spook01 at comcast.net Wed May 25 08:02:06 2011 From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01 at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 25 May 2011 14:02:06 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Trip for Anniversary In-Reply-To: <2041717543.3226627.1306332102064.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <870006962.3226683.1306332126713.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Take a motor home, with a enclosed trailer behind it.? End of "on the side of the road problems", and you don't have to lug spare engine parts. "Life's tough....It's even tougher if you're stupid." -John Wayne ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "TR List" Sent: Wednesday, May 25, 2011 12:39:30 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Trip for Anniversary Most important: cell phone & AAA+ card. Beyond that depends on what, realistically, you are willing to do on the side of the road. ?Fan belt, hoses, fuses, and enough tools to replace them. I like to carry a DMM with clip leads and some extra DOT 5 (because it can be hard to find in stores). ?Some drinking water is always welcome on long trips, and in an emergency can fill the radiator enough to limp to a filling station. I carry a spare distributor (loaded with cap, rotor, points, wires) in the center of the spare tire (along with the belt & hoses in a zip-lock bag), as well as a backup electric fuel pump. ?Never needed them myself, but others in the caravan have. (5 of us once spent the better part of a Sunday afternoon roaming around the Oregon countryside, 800 miles from home, looking for a TR4A rotor.) -- Randall ? triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From guy at genfiniti.com Wed May 25 08:51:08 2011 From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins) Date: Wed, 25 May 2011 09:51:08 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4A - A Few Electric Questions Message-ID: <5542F5F1-9EF1-479F-A038-CFE0FFE89A0A@genfiniti.com> All, First... an update. I am getting seriously close to completing the restoration project. So close that I am also starting a parallel effort to get the car squared away with Texas. (title, registration, etc.) I am in the process of completing the new Advanced Auto Wire harness, and am down to terminating the wiring under the dash. Once the electrics are done, its on to the interior for the finish. With that project completed, the next project is getting my newly restored car ready to drive, which I am organizing as a separate effort. Anyway, my latest questions.. Every schematic I look at has the tranny interlock switches represented as two circles touching. To one of the terminals is the powered wire (yellow), the opposite the ground. Does anyone know which switch on the schematic equals which switch on the tranny? Does it even matter? Finally, does it matter to which terminal on the switches that the power and ground wires attach? I have the Lucas DR3A wiper motor. It has terminals labeled "1", "2" and "E". In the schematic, it shows FOUR wires terminating there; N/LG, R/LG, G, B. The first two come from the switch, G is power and B the ground. How do I attach four wires to only three terminals? Cheers, Guy D. Huggins 1965 Triumph TR4A CTC 63569LO Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Wed May 25 09:35:08 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 25 May 2011 08:35:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4A - A Few Electric Questions In-Reply-To: <5542F5F1-9EF1-479F-A038-CFE0FFE89A0A@genfiniti.com> References: <5542F5F1-9EF1-479F-A038-CFE0FFE89A0A@genfiniti.com> Message-ID: <0e4301cc1af1$5417ace0$0301a8c0@randall> > Does anyone know which switch on the schematic equals which switch > on the tranny? Does it even matter? Assuming you have only overdrive, and not reverse lights, it does not matter. The two switches are wired in parallel, so the circuit is completed if either switch is closed. One switch closes only in 2nd gear, the other switch closes in either 3rd or 4th. > Finally, does it matter to which terminal on the switches that the power and ground wires attach No, it does not matter. > I have the Lucas DR3A wiper motor. It has terminals labeled > "1", "2" and "E". In the schematic, it shows FOUR wires > terminating there; N/LG, R/LG, G, B. That means you have a single-speed motor, while your schematic shows a 2-speed motor. The green wire goes to terminal '2', the black wire goes to terminal 'E'. Both N/LG and R/LG will run to the switch, so you can simply pick which one you want to use, and leave the other unused. Assuming you use a single-speed switch, connect the same wire to the switch and leave the other unused. -- Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Wed May 25 09:37:20 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 25 May 2011 08:37:20 -0700 Subject: [TR] Alternatives to cluster shaft needle bearings? In-Reply-To: <163440594.1288141.1306330966403.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <4DDC8502.20809@comcast.net> <163440594.1288141.1306330966403.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <0e4401cc1af1$a2f29870$0301a8c0@randall> > Additionally, a longer bearing can be used on both the front > and rear of the layshaft to provide more support. This > replacement is .995" long and has an outer shell. It's not > open as originally supplied by Triumph in the later cars. > This "shell" can be used to advantage in saving a cluster > gear that's been damaged by the open needle bearing > configuration: press it in with a bit of Loctite Stud and > Bearing Mount. Doesn't the cluster gear also have to be ground to diameter before fitting the longer bearing? -- Randall From pethier at comcast.net Wed May 25 10:08:22 2011 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 25 May 2011 16:08:22 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR2 Drum brakes In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1825351856.130017.1306339702878.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> > From: "Chris Simo" ? > I'm afraid you could have another issue.? When is the last time you > replaced the flex hoses?? I had a similar issue like this years ago. - > one side came on slower than the other and then stayed on longer - > made for some crazy braking.... Yes, failures causing internal blockages in British hoses are all-too-common. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack" 2004 Suburban 8.1 2005 Lotus Elise 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://www.mnautox.com From guy at genfiniti.com Wed May 25 16:07:57 2011 From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins) Date: Wed, 25 May 2011 17:07:57 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4A - Ammeter Polarity Message-ID: All, I have the original 30 amp Jaeger ammeter in the car. Can anyone tell me, if you were holding it in your hand, looking at the front of the gauge, which terminal is positive on a negative ground car? Cheers, Guy D. Huggins 1965 Triumph TR4A CTC 63569LO Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Wed May 25 16:24:49 2011 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Wed, 25 May 2011 18:24:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4A - A Few Electric Questions References: <5542F5F1-9EF1-479F-A038-CFE0FFE89A0A@genfiniti.com> Message-ID: Guy, you should have 3 wires coming out of the motor if it's a two speed motor. Green will be positive power to the motor. It should be fused. There is a screw that goes into the end plate of the motor that a ground attaches to. That ground is only for the parking feature, it will not park without that ground attached. The other two wires coming from the motor attach to their corresponding leads from the wiper switch. The wiper switch controls the "ground" to the motor and if both are energized the motor goes on slow speed. If only 1 is energized the motor goes on fast speed. Be sure to have the switch wired properly and grounded. I've just gone thru all of this with my motor. TR4A should have a 2 speed motor. JVV ----- Original Message ----- From: "G.D. Huggins" To: ; Sent: Wednesday, May 25, 2011 10:51 AM Subject: [TR] TR4A - A Few Electric Questions > All, > > First... an update. I am getting seriously close to completing the > restoration project. So close that I am also starting a parallel effort > to get the car squared away with Texas. (title, registration, etc.) > I am in the process of completing the new Advanced Auto Wire harness, and > am down to terminating the wiring under the dash. Once the electrics are > done, its on to the interior for the finish. With that project completed, > the next project is getting my newly restored car ready to drive, which I > am organizing as a separate effort. > > Anyway, my latest questions.. > > Every schematic I look at has the tranny interlock switches represented as > two circles touching. To one of the terminals is the powered wire > (yellow), the opposite the ground. Does anyone know which switch on the > schematic equals which switch on the tranny? Does it even matter? > Finally, does it matter to which terminal on the switches that the power > and ground wires attach? > > I have the Lucas DR3A wiper motor. It has terminals labeled "1", "2" and > "E". In the schematic, it shows FOUR wires terminating there; N/LG, R/LG, > G, B. The first two come from the switch, G is power and B the ground. > How do I attach four wires to only three terminals? > > > > Cheers, > > Guy D. Huggins > 1965 Triumph TR4A > CTC 63569LO > > Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph > > > > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jerryvv at roadrunner.com > > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed May 25 16:38:41 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 25 May 2011 15:38:41 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4A - Ammeter Polarity In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <026501cc1b2c$80252250$806f66f0$@rr.com> > I have the original 30 amp Jaeger ammeter in the car. > Can anyone tell me, if you were holding it in your hand, looking at the > front of the gauge, which terminal is positive on a negative ground > car? Both of them. I believe the one on the right should be wired to the control box, while the one on the left goes to the fuse block and starter solenoid. This car was wired for negative ground. If you look closely, you can see the original white stripe on one of the wires: http://tinyurl.com/ybvtl48 -- Randall From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed May 25 17:27:42 2011 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 25 May 2011 19:27:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] Moving an old car from storage in one state to home. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I imagine every state is a little bit different on how they handle things, but as long as the car wasn?t registered, I doubt they can charge you taxes on it. Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 1975 TR6 with: Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff & CVJs From: Chris Simo Sent: Wednesday, May 25, 2011 6:56 PM To: list Triumph Subject: [TR] Moving an old car from storage in one state to home. One of my cars has been stored out of state at my Father in laws barn for over 10 years. Title is in my name from out of state. When I bring it to my home state of the last 10 years - North Carolina - are they likely to hit me with 10 years of taxes and penalties - What can I do to protect myself? It was intended to be a parts car - but it's pretty complete save engine and transmission and I just found one of each.... Any advice would be helpful. Thanks Chris -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From pethier at comcast.net Wed May 25 22:19:52 2011 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 26 May 2011 04:19:52 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Moving an old car from storage in one state to home. North Carolina law? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <105754036.171010.1306383592217.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Dunno about North Carolina. In Minnesota I believe you can go to the state and sign a "certificate of storage" that the car has not been used on the roads, then get current plates for it, with the fees starting now. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack" 2004 Suburban 8.1 2005 Lotus Elise 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://www.mnautox.com ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Chris Simo" > To: "list Triumph" > Sent: Wednesday, May 25, 2011 5:56:39 PM > Subject: [TR] Moving an old car from storage in one state to home. > > One of my cars has been stored out of state at my Father in laws barn > for over 10 years. > > > Title is in my name from out of state. > > > When I bring it to my home state of the last 10 years - North Carolina > - are they likely to hit me with 10 years of taxes and penalties - > What can I do to protect myself? > > > It was intended to be a parts car - but it's pretty complete save > engine and transmission and I just found one of each.... > > > Any advice would be helpful. > > > Thanks > > > Chris > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net > > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive From agraham at execulink.com Thu May 26 11:27:36 2011 From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham) Date: Thu, 26 May 2011 13:27:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 fuel shut-off valve. Message-ID: <4DDE8D88.9010406@execulink.com> Hello List: Good to be back on the list after a few months absence. Reworking my fuel lines to accommodate an electric fuel pump and have come up against the fuel shut-off valve. The valve needs a new 'cork' and wondering if anyone makes the cylindrical type of cork seal for these valves? What about using a neoprene seal instead - tubing perhaps? Finally, wondering about the wisdom of leaving the valve in place; can easily by-pass it with tubing. A potential trouble spot - leaks and the like. Nice shiny brass, though. Thanks. Angelo Graham From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu May 26 11:50:06 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 26 May 2011 10:50:06 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 fuel shut-off valve. In-Reply-To: <4DDE8D88.9010406@execulink.com> References: <4DDE8D88.9010406@execulink.com> Message-ID: <036d01cc1bcd$5a12f820$0e38e860$@rr.com> Hi Angelo, welcome back. I believe TRF offers a proper cork seal, likely others do as well. I did as you suggest and cut one from a length of "rubber" fuel line many years ago. It was tricky getting it adjusted just right, there was very little change in adjustment between "too stiff to move" and "leaking". But once I found the right adjustment, it worked very well for many years. ISTR I adjusted it once more after about 10 years of service, as it was weeping just a bit. After the 3A got wrecked, I moved the entire valve to the TR3, where it is still working fine today. While there are alternatives, I like having the shutoff valve, mostly to stop fuel from flowing out while I clean the sediment bowl. -- Randall From wbeech at flash.net Thu May 26 11:51:03 2011 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Thu, 26 May 2011 11:51:03 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 fuel shut-off valve. In-Reply-To: <4DDE8D88.9010406@execulink.com> References: <4DDE8D88.9010406@execulink.com> Message-ID: <6504444F-27DC-4C54-A440-8C6D307BD442@flash.net> Mine has been in place for three years now, no leaks. Got the cork seal from Moss, but I have heard of others using neoprene alternatives. Biggest problem I have is forgetting to turn it back on and ending up on the side of the road 1/2 mile from home. Sent from mobile Bill On May 26, 2011, at 11:27 AM, Angelo Graham wrote: > Hello List: > Good to be back on the list after a few months absence. > Reworking my fuel lines to accommodate an electric fuel pump and have come up against the fuel shut-off valve. The valve needs a new 'cork' and wondering if anyone makes the cylindrical type of cork seal for these valves? What about using a neoprene seal instead - tubing perhaps? > Finally, wondering about the wisdom of leaving the valve in place; can easily by-pass it with tubing. A potential trouble spot - leaks and the like. Nice shiny brass, though. > Thanks. > Angelo Graham > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net > > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu May 26 13:22:35 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 26 May 2011 12:22:35 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 fuel shut-off valve. In-Reply-To: <651638.13387.qm@web120208.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <4DDE8D88.9010406@execulink.com> <651638.13387.qm@web120208.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <03a701cc1bda$45b3e620$d11bb260$@rr.com> > i bought a cork gasket from Moss about 4 years ago. it was listed in > the catalog as not available, Both websites show it as available now. TRF REP431, Moss 589-220. -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu May 26 13:54:10 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 26 May 2011 12:54:10 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 fuel shut-off valve. In-Reply-To: References: <4DDE8D88.9010406@execulink.com> <651638.13387.qm@web120208.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <03b701cc1bde$aefa4a30$0ceede90$@rr.com> > Not sure what material the cork is made out of Laboratory corks aren't made from cork any more? -- Randall From mlang99 at comcast.net Thu May 26 14:12:36 2011 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Thu, 26 May 2011 13:12:36 -0700 Subject: [TR] Main shaft snap ring removal In-Reply-To: <0e4401cc1af1$a2f29870$0301a8c0@randall> References: <4DDC8502.20809@comcast.net> <163440594.1288141.1306330966403.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <0e4401cc1af1$a2f29870$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <4DDEB434.8030705@comcast.net> So what's the trick to removal of the 3rd gear snap ring off of the main shaft? I have have always used multiple screwdrivers in the past but I now have the Churchill tool for doing it. Smack it with a hammer and drive it under the snap ring? Put it in a press and push it under? I've never used one before and don't want to break anything in the process (especially the tool :-). Mike TS11544L From guy at genfiniti.com Thu May 26 16:08:08 2011 From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins) Date: Thu, 26 May 2011 17:08:08 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4A - Temp Sender/Switch Combo Message-ID: All, Good afternoon everyone. I added an electric fan to the car, so I am also hoping to add a thermo switch so it can turn on/off automatically. The car has the original temp sending unit in the thermostat housing, which feeds the temp gauge. Is there such a thing as a unit that is BOTH a temp sending unit AND a thermo switch? Cheers, Guy D. Huggins 1965 Triumph TR4A CTC 63569LO Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Thu May 26 20:20:21 2011 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Thu, 26 May 2011 19:20:21 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Triumph Shirts Message-ID: <378032.37752.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> My favorite Triumph shirt finally gave up the ghost. You could see through the fabric and it had holes in it. I might have given up the ghost years ago, but denial is a powerful thing and I kept wearing it. It was a white golf shirt with purple-ish sleeves, an embroidered Triumph book logo and a UJ on the sleeve. I have a favorite TR3/UJ T-shirt from Moss that is getting sad as well. I can't seem to find any suitable TR3 type shirts on either Moss or TRF. Does anyone have another source? I still have 3 Moss Triumph rugby shirts that I've worn weekly all winter for about the last 10 or 12 years. It is amazing how long they have held up. Maybe I should go into the TR shirt printing business... TIA, Bill in Tehachapi From rawanderer at comcast.net Fri May 27 09:31:59 2011 From: rawanderer at comcast.net (Bob Wanderer) Date: Fri, 27 May 2011 15:31:59 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Triumph Shirts In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <461290661.1100618.1306510319000.JavaMail.root@sz0133a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> There's a web store, zazzy (I think), that had apparel for the TR6. They might have apparel for the TR3. BobW 1974 TR6 (Pimento) Montgomeryville, Pa (suburban Philadelphia) ----- Original Message ----- From: "marty sukey" To: dave1massey at cs.com, triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, May 27, 2011 8:20:55 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph Shirts Ted Shumacher had a bunch of? nice Triumph stuff at the last VTR meet. Might want to try him. ? Marty ? From: Dave1massey at cs.com Date: Fri, 27 May 2011 07:59:12 -0400 To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph Shirts In a message dated 5/26/2011 9:43:55 PM Central Daylight Time, wsb1960tr3a at att.net writes: ???? I still have 3 Moss Triumph rugby shirts that I've worn weekly all winter for about the last 10 or 12 years. It is amazing how long they have held up. ???? Maybe I should go into the TR shirt printing business... You might try Fourth Gear LTD, the official apparel supplier to the VTR http://fourth-gear-ltd.com/ Dave triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trmarty at hotmail.com Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rawanderer at comcast.net Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From yellowtr at adelphia.net Fri May 27 12:45:34 2011 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Fri, 27 May 2011 14:45:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] Moss Message-ID: <201105271445.34975.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Just was reading the news on Drudge and there was a Moss advertisement up at the top. Never seen Moss on any website before. Looks like the internet is here to stay. Bob From thenicholls at verizon.net Mon May 30 10:02:28 2011 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 11:02:28 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Read drivers lever shock (damper) Message-ID: <777496768.786213.1306771348641.JavaMail.root@vznit170078> 1972 Triumph TR6, up on ramps this weekend. The two bolts holding the lever shock to the body were loose. Tightened, other side fine. I see on the archive someone suggesting longer bolts and a nyloc bolt on the other side. I used a 5/8th socket, what size bolt, what length bolt, and nyloc should I get? Thanks and Happy Memorial Day to the list. Craig Vienna, VA From jimmuller at rcn.com Mon May 30 16:37:14 2011 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 18:37:14 -0400 Subject: [TR] Whew! Finally, GT6 progress Message-ID: <4DE3E3DA.4248.E9D1549@localhost> It's been a long wait... I haven't been active in either of these lists for many months. But today I finally got some free time and therefore got some car work done. First, I got the Spitfire fired up after its long winter's nap. It seems to have suffered no ill effects from such a long sleep except for a thoroughly dead battery. If it doesn't hold a charge after begin on a charger for a few days I'll spring for another battery. It's been getting weaker for years anyway. More importantly, I started re-assembling the GT6 gearbox. It took some doing to get the 3rd gear circlip in place, the one at the front end of the mainshaft. But I got it firmly in. Don't know why it was so hard, even after ordering two new ones from Spitbits. Then I got the mainshaft, input shaft, and reverse gear all in place and in the gearbox! The layshaft is next, but I know a few tricks to make that job easier. I need to go to work tomorrow so I can rest. Happy summer, everyone! Drive safe. Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com From anabil007 at comcast.net Mon May 30 19:44:06 2011 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 18:44:06 -0700 Subject: [TR] Happy Decoration Day Message-ID: Be thankful for Global Warming, you could be having another Glacier moving in ... Supposedly the start of summer in the temperate zones. Why was it snowing at 4 am in Salt Lake? mjb. _ -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA From mmarr at notwires.com Tue May 31 07:40:41 2011 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Tue, 31 May 2011 08:40:41 -0500 Subject: [TR] Read drivers lever shock (damper) References: <777496768.786213.1306771348641.JavaMail.root@vznit170078> Message-ID: <47CFE8400FD0429AAC801674B959E9EA@trigeni.com> I use Allen head cap screws too, on my 3A, although I have never had to install a nyloc nut. Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: "Geo Hahn" To: Cc: Sent: Monday, May 30, 2011 7:59 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Read drivers lever shock (damper) > On Mon, May 30, 2011 at 9:02 AM, wrote: > >> I see on the archive someone suggesting longer bolts and a nyloc bolt on >> the other side. > > > I prefer the all-metal style locking nut for that spot -- plus blue > loctite. Also, on TR3s there is a clearance problem getting a wrench on > the > bolt head so I use a allen-head cap screw there. It seems to be a tough > bolt to keep tight. > > Hopefully a TR6 owner can advise you on size. > > Geo > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mmarr at notwires.com > > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive From pethier at comcast.net Tue May 31 08:15:40 2011 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 31 May 2011 14:15:40 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Read drivers lever shock (damper) In-Reply-To: <777496768.786213.1306771348641.JavaMail.root@vznit170078> Message-ID: <821569880.359799.1306851340946.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> On my early TR4, I used socket-head cap screws and Nyloc nuts. No problems ever again. Ran the car in autocrosses and road for ten years. Never had to retighten. Same diameter bolt as original. Length can be determined by measuring the old bolt. If that one did not have enough length to support a Nyloc, add a half inch. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack" 2004 Suburban 8.1 2005 Lotus Elise 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://www.mnautox.com ----- Original Message ----- > From: thenicholls at verizon.net > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Monday, May 30, 2011 11:02:28 AM > Subject: [TR] Read drivers lever shock (damper) > > 1972 Triumph TR6, up on ramps this weekend. The two bolts holding the > lever shock to the body were loose. Tightened, other side fine. > > I see on the archive someone suggesting longer bolts and a nyloc bolt > on the other side. > > I used a 5/8th socket, what size bolt, what length bolt, and nyloc > should I get? > > Thanks and Happy Memorial Day to the list. > > Craig From pethier at comcast.net Tue May 31 08:16:18 2011 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 31 May 2011 14:16:18 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Read drivers lever shock (damper) In-Reply-To: <777496768.786213.1306771348641.JavaMail.root@vznit170078> Message-ID: <1741409045.359833.1306851378613.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> On my early TR4, I used socket-head cap screws and Nyloc nuts. No problems ever again. Ran the car in autocrosses and road for ten years. Never had to retighten. Same diameter bolt as original. Length can be determined by measuring the old bolt. If that one did not have enough length to support a Nyloc, add a half inch. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack" 2004 Suburban 8.1 2005 Lotus Elise 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://www.mnautox.com ----- Original Message ----- > From: thenicholls at verizon.net > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Monday, May 30, 2011 11:02:28 AM > Subject: [TR] Read drivers lever shock (damper) > > 1972 Triumph TR6, up on ramps this weekend. The two bolts holding the > lever shock to the body were loose. Tightened, other side fine. > > I see on the archive someone suggesting longer bolts and a nyloc bolt > on the other side. > > I used a 5/8th socket, what size bolt, what length bolt, and nyloc > should I get? > > Thanks and Happy Memorial Day to the list. > > Craig From SOThornton at aol.com Tue May 31 11:37:39 2011 From: SOThornton at aol.com (Steve Thornton) Date: Tue, 31 May 2011 12:37:39 -0500 Subject: [TR] (no subject) Message-ID: Friends- I am incorporating many of the suggestions made for car prep for my trip. Thanks for all the suggestions. This list is great! My questions are- 1. What grease to use on the splines? 2. What lubricant to use in the gearbox and overdrive? 3. What lubricant to use in the rear end? Many thanks in advance. Steven O. Thornton Attorney at Law 1011 Lehman Avenue Suite 102 Bowling Green, KY. 42103 Sent from my iPad From pethier at comcast.net Tue May 31 11:58:17 2011 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 31 May 2011 17:58:17 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Happy Decoration Day In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1215418919.373643.1306864697502.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Bill" > Be thankful for Global Warming, you could be having another Glacier > moving in ... > > > > Supposedly the start of summer in the temperate zones. Why was it > snowing at 4 am in Salt Lake? > > mjb. It's called "global weirding". Just becasause the world's average temperature is going up does not mean that it just gets a little bit warmer everywhere. Weather patterns change. Heaven help England if the Gulf Stream shuts off: It could get really cold there. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack" 2004 Suburban 8.1 2005 Lotus Elise 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://www.mnautox.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue May 31 12:42:02 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 31 May 2011 11:42:02 -0700 Subject: [TR] (no subject) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0b2e01cc1fc2$71b67080$55235180$@rr.com> > 1. What grease to use on the splines? I have not tried it myself yet, but many people (including Greg Solow) seem to like Ford D2AZ-19590-A (which is a special purpose grease developed by Ford, to solve an almost identical problem on their cars & trucks with sliding splines). Not cheap, but a little poking around on-line turned it up for $20/pound. > 2. What lubricant to use in the gearbox and overdrive? Lots of debate on that topic, with no clear consensus. I used to use Valvoline VR1 (racing motor oil) 20W50, and I still feel it is a good choice. But I switched to Redline MT-90 (a full synthetic GL4 gear oil designed specifically for manual transmissions) and it is clearly better IMO. Shifting is now absolutely perfect both hot & cold, where it wasn't always just right with the 20W50. Kinda pricy though, although I found it a bit cheaper by the case on the Internet. > 3. What lubricant to use in the rear end? I have been using Valvoline SynPower Gear Oil for over 20 years, and it works very well IMO. Although it is rated GL5 (meaning it provides more protection for the hypoid gears than GL4 does), it also contains none of the "active sulfur" additive that can shorten the life of the brass thrust washers used in Triumph diffs. -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue May 31 12:53:41 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 31 May 2011 11:53:41 -0700 Subject: [TR] (no subject) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0b3901cc1fc4$106705e0$313511a0$@rr.com> > Assuming you mean the splines for wire wheels -- I have always used > (silver) anti-seize, available in the 1/2 lbs bottle. Oops, in my previous reply I assumed he was asking about the splines in the half shafts (or drive shafts if you're British) on an IRS Triumph. I agree, anti-seize for the wire wheel splines (although I'm going back to the copper-colored stuff next time as the silver doesn't seem to work as well for me). -- Randall From wensley_tr at comcast.net Tue May 31 13:54:55 2011 From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Tue, 31 May 2011 15:54:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <0b3901cc1fc4$106705e0$313511a0$@rr.com> References: <0b3901cc1fc4$106705e0$313511a0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <002b01cc1fcc$9fe29d80$dfa7d880$@net> I thought you use wire wheels only for a paper weight Craig -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2011 2:54 PM Cc: 'TR List' Subject: Re: [TR] (no subject) > Assuming you mean the splines for wire wheels -- I have always used > (silver) anti-seize, available in the 1/2 lbs bottle. Oops, in my previous reply I assumed he was asking about the splines in the half shafts (or drive shafts if you're British) on an IRS Triumph. I agree, anti-seize for the wire wheel splines (although I'm going back to the copper-colored stuff next time as the silver doesn't seem to work as well for me). -- Randall triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wensley_tr at comcast.net Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue May 31 16:47:03 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 31 May 2011 15:47:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <002b01cc1fcc$9fe29d80$dfa7d880$@net> References: <0b3901cc1fc4$106705e0$313511a0$@rr.com> <002b01cc1fcc$9fe29d80$dfa7d880$@net> Message-ID: <002501cc1fe4$a9eda4b0$fdc8ee10$@rr.com> > I thought you use wire wheels only for a paper weight That's all the ones that were on my TR3A were good for, IMO. However, on my first Stag I wanted to try to stay a little closer to "original" (might even show it someday), and it originally had chrome wires. http://tinyurl.com/3oyv856 -- Randall 58 TR3A TS39781LO :(now totaled :( 56 TR3 TS13571L daily driver 71 Stag LE1473L waiting for engine rebuild 71 Stag LE2014LBW waiting OD gearbox rebuild From guy at genfiniti.com Tue May 31 20:19:12 2011 From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins) Date: Tue, 31 May 2011 21:19:12 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4A - Wiper Fluid Pump Message-ID: All, I have a dilemma. The wiper fluid pump's hollow cylinder (provides a space for the pumping action) and the bezel both slip cleanly through the hole in the dash panel. Since the bezel width is exactly that of the cylinder into which it screws, I suspect this is by design. How is the wiper pump supposed to be secured to the panel without slipping either out or in? Am I missing something? Cheers, Guy D. Huggins 1965 Triumph TR4A CTC 63569LO Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph From mlang99 at comcast.net Tue May 31 20:30:39 2011 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Tue, 31 May 2011 19:30:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] Alternatives to cluster shaft needle bearings? In-Reply-To: <163440594.1288141.1306330966403.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <163440594.1288141.1306330966403.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <4DE5A44F.9000501@comcast.net> Which Rockwell scale? I checked my old shaft today on a 15-N tester (all that I have available at work) and it measured 92. Using the conversion chart, that would be equivalent to 65 on the more common Rockwell C scale. My transmission has seen some work at some point - the front layshaft bearing is the style that includes the outer race while the rear bearing ran directly on the inner surface of the layshaft. Thanks, Mike TS11544L fogbro1 at comcast.net wrote: > List, > > > > FWIW, the original layshaft for the all synchro boxes had a hardness of 92 Rockwell. With the exception of TRF's, all of the replacement shafts I had tested several years ago fell far short of the design spec. Don't know what's being supplied by others today, but TRF's are still made to that spec and in the USA! > From anabil007 at comcast.net Tue May 31 23:57:53 2011 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Tue, 31 May 2011 22:57:53 -0700 Subject: [TR] Kastner at Laguna Seca Message-ID: My computer ate my saved eMails ... I would appreciate it if someone would forward a copy of the original message ... If I can get Casper back together I intend to go ... June 7, 8 ?????? Thanks ... -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA From guy at genfiniti.com Fri May 13 14:14:54 2011 From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins) Date: Fri, 13 May 2011 20:14:54 -0000 Subject: [TR] TR4A Dash Lamps - Holes not large enough Message-ID: All, I am in the process of wiring up and installing the dash components (gauges, lamps, switches, etc.) in a cake-layer fashion; starting with the facia items (top layer), then working to the plinth (middle) and finally the heater items (bottom). As I was test fitting the wooden facia to the metal frame, I noticed that my two lamps (red and green) have a diameter too large (1") for the holes in the frame (3/4") they are supposed to fit through. I am fitting thus, relative to the driver.. 1. Bezel Nut 2. Wood facia ("squeezed" between the bezel and the tube) 3. Lamp tube (which is supposed to fit back through the metal frame like the gauges do) Can someone tell me the correct diameter for these lamps? Am I doing it wrong? I suspect that mine are incorrect, but I can't see these coming in a lot of varied diameters either. Cheers, Guy D. Huggins 1965 Triumph TR4A CTC 63569LO Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Sat May 14 04:47:29 2011 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net) Date: Sat, 14 May 2011 10:47:29 -0000 Subject: [TR] Off Topic Western union scam Message-ID: <380-220115614104739888@M2W118.mail2web.com> Anyone else getting the "Western Union" scams? You know, "someone is trying to access your account etc. -" I've received about 6 of these in the last coupe of weeks, and only to the E mail on on this list (which I only use here) - Somehow, they won't forward to spoof at westernunion.com so I keep getting them - Barry -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://link.mail2web.com/mail2web From guy at genfiniti.com Sun May 15 08:53:34 2011 From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins) Date: Sun, 15 May 2011 14:53:34 -0000 Subject: [TR] TR4A - Replacing Windshield Wiper Blades Message-ID: <661B68DE-DC8F-4804-9BB6-0D0F29D18E43@genfiniti.com> All, OK... I got new wiper blades with the rest of a recent Moss order, and can't figure out how to remove the old ones from the wiper arms. There is a little button thing which I have depressed, and then pulled, but it didn't work. I also noticed that the blades will rotate, with some force. What is the secret to removing these stubborn things? Also, just eyeballing the replacements I wonder if they will go on. The channel for the wiper arm seems too narrow, as the wiper arm itself seems wider than the channel. Also do not see a hole in the new blades for that button to come up through. Did they send me the wrong blades? p.s. Can anyone tell me on the Lucas DR3A wiper motor, which terminal (1 or 2) is for "fast", and which is for "slow"? Need to know for wiring purposes from the switch. Cheers, Guy D. Huggins 1965 Triumph TR4A CTC 63569LO Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph From mark at bradakis.com Sun May 15 13:28:38 2011 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sun, 15 May 2011 19:28:38 -0000 Subject: [TR] Computers, what fun Message-ID: <4DD02A48.1010206@bradakis.com> Just checking to see how long it takes this message to get to the list. mjb. From mark at bradakis.com Sun May 15 18:34:54 2011 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 16 May 2011 00:34:54 -0000 Subject: [TR] Another test.... Message-ID: <4DD0720E.4000108@bradakis.com> What fun. mjb. From mark at bradakis.com Mon May 16 14:24:44 2011 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 16 May 2011 20:24:44 -0000 Subject: [TR] Testing... Message-ID: <4DD188EF.9090009@bradakis.com> Juan, Too. mjb.