From mark at bradakis.com Wed Jun 1 00:04:21 2011 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Wed, 01 Jun 2011 00:04:21 -0600 Subject: [TR] Kastner at Laguna Seca In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4DE5D665.7020206@bradakis.com> Bill wrote: > My computer ate my saved eMails http://www.team.net/archive But yes, June 6, 7, 8. mjb. From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jun 1 01:14:29 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 1 Jun 2011 00:14:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR2 timing question - In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <00eb01cc202b$8c834f00$0301a8c0@randall> > I don't dare use it for a full rotation as I don't know if it > could hit a valve.... Unless it is really strangely shaped, it's not likely to hit a valve. Mine is just a spark plug shell with a headless bolt screwed into it, and it doesn't hit anything. > Assuming TDC is good -- Now to see if the chain jumped - is > it a matter of just looking at the rocker arms and making > sure they are both fully seated at TDC? Both valves are closed for most of a stroke either side of TDC on compression; and both are open at TDC on exhaust; so that won't work. One way is to back off the adjustment for both valves (set the lash to say .050" for both), turn to TDC on exhaust, and check how much clearance is left. Ideally they should be identical, but a few thousandths one way or the other is close enough. -- Randall From fogbro1 at comcast.net Wed Jun 1 09:03:59 2011 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 1 Jun 2011 15:03:59 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Layshaft harness Message-ID: <1653815789.1604840.1306940639714.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> List, Further to my previous post: The factory spec on the TR4-TR6 layshaft is 60-62 Rockwell C. Ed Woods -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mlang99 at comcast.net Wed Jun 1 09:41:39 2011 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Wed, 01 Jun 2011 08:41:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] Layshaft harness In-Reply-To: <1653815789.1604840.1306940639714.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1653815789.1604840.1306940639714.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <4DE65DB3.4000402@comcast.net> Thanks Ed! It will be nice to have a number to check the new shaft against. Mike fogbro1 at comcast.net wrote: > List, > > > > Further to my previous post: The factory spec on the TR4-TR6 layshaft is 60-62 Rockwell C. > > > > Ed Woods > > From blambert at socal.rr.com Wed Jun 1 20:40:48 2011 From: blambert at socal.rr.com (D&B Lambert) Date: Wed, 1 Jun 2011 19:40:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] Oil sump Gasket Sealant In-Reply-To: <0d8601cc1a9f$b2208660$0301a8c0@randall> References: <4DDC8502.20809@comcast.net> <0d8601cc1a9f$b2208660$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <5D006B6750854CCD875DF357A9CF4F72@Lambert1> All, I've just spent a very unpleasant hour or so under my TR3A removing, with only moderate success, the remains of the oil pan gasket. I dropped the pan to inspect the bearings after experiencing the sudden loss of oil pressure (I know the cause, and it has been repaired, but that's another story.) The pan was installed using the standard gasket which was coated on both sides with Aviation Form-A-Gasket. As far as I can tell the pan gasket never leaked, but removing the gasket and sealer from both the block and the pan is a real booger. I've searched the archives and see plenty of recommendations for sealants that seal plenty fine, but not much info on how the removal goes after a period of time. Is there indeed a gasket sealant that does the job of sealing, but can be removed with a reasonable amount of effort some time later? Thank you, Dennis From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jun 2 04:50:44 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 2 Jun 2011 03:50:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] Oil sump Gasket Sealant In-Reply-To: <5D006B6750854CCD875DF357A9CF4F72@Lambert1> References: <4DDC8502.20809@comcast.net><0d8601cc1a9f$b2208660$0301a8c0@randall> <5D006B6750854CCD875DF357A9CF4F72@Lambert1> Message-ID: <033601cc2112$ecd7b7f0$0301a8c0@randall> > Is there indeed a > gasket sealant > that does the job of sealing, but can be removed with a > reasonable amount of > effort some time later? That is exactly my objection to Aviation Form-A-Gasket; and one of the reasons I like Hylomar so much. It will come off easily even decades after being applied; while as you've discovered, classic "non hardening" Permatex gets hard as a rock over time. BTW, Loctite 'Chisel Gasket Remover' will slowly soften the Form-A-Gasket. It makes the job a little easier, but no faster because you have to spray it on, wait for it to soften the surface layer, then scrape away the softened gasket/sealer and repeat for the next layer. -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jun 2 13:01:13 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 2 Jun 2011 12:01:13 -0700 Subject: [TR] Bleeding the bl--dy brakes - again In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <03ae01cc2157$722ced00$5686c700$@rr.com> > It's apparent that full pressure is being lost by air seeping into the > system So that means you get bubbles when you bleed the brakes? > through the threads of one or more junctions, Or could be past the seals in the cylinders. The master cylinder is particularly suspect, as it is the only place in the system where the pressure goes below ambient. In other words, all of the other connections are always under a very slight positive pressure (basically the weight of the brake fluid in the line up to the MC). > and wrapping every thread with > teflon tape, or something else you might suggest. I would definitely NOT suggest applying anything to the threads. The only place where the threads are actually what seals the brake fluid is at the brake light switch. > There is one non-stock junction Just curious, what kind of junction? The potential pressure in a hydraulic brake system is many times higher than what most commonly available fittings are designed to handle. If you have used something that is not designed specifically for braking systems, you may have created a death trap for yourself. -- Randall From terryrs at comcast.net Thu Jun 2 15:34:29 2011 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 2 Jun 2011 21:34:29 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Gear Shift Kob Rattle In-Reply-To: <03ae01cc2157$722ced00$5686c700$@rr.com> Message-ID: <751159952.1567656.1307050469495.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Haven't seen this one on the List. Just curious, though. My gearshift rattles at speed without a bump road. As I recall, there's a spring holding the lever in place? ...Is it possibly a sign that the mounts are loose or the engine is somehow out of balance (despite that while it runs a little sluggish, it's not missing that I can tell)? What the hay, crazy question and not particularly important. Still.... Terry Smith, '59 TR3A TS 58667 New Hampshire From terryrs at comcast.net Thu Jun 2 15:37:11 2011 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 2 Jun 2011 21:37:11 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Another Crazy Question: Beware, chestnut related In-Reply-To: <03ae01cc2157$722ced00$5686c700$@rr.com> Message-ID: <389862036.1567790.1307050631806.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Haven't researched archives, so don't feel obligated to respond. I seem to remember hearing a couple of different recommendations on how much to set the advance on a TR3A engine. ISTR one was 4 degrees, another lister thought 8 degrees. Engine is at I think 4 right now, but running as if it lacks the pep I'm used to. Thoughts? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From levilevi at comcast.net Thu Jun 2 16:27:52 2011 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Thu, 2 Jun 2011 16:27:52 -0600 Subject: [TR] Gear Shift Kob Rattle In-Reply-To: <751159952.1567656.1307050469495.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <751159952.1567656.1307050469495.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <2CB892E3-326C-4E6A-967F-F6441C13F693@comcast.net> Terry, I've had a bit of a rattle from the gearshift and think its the spring that may be broken. I even bought a new spring and when I put in a new carpet kit I'll get to that spring...if needed. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Jun 2, 2011, at 3:34 PM, terryrs at comcast.net wrote: > Haven't seen this one on the List. Just curious, though. My > gearshift rattles at speed without a bump road. As I recall, > there's a spring holding the lever in place? ...Is it possibly a > sign that the mounts are loose or the engine is somehow out of > balance (despite that while it runs a little sluggish, it's not > missing that I can tell)? > > What the hay, crazy question and not particularly important. > Still.... > > Terry Smith, '59 TR3A TS 58667 > New Hampshire > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net > > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jun 2 17:04:14 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 2 Jun 2011 16:04:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] Another Crazy Question: Beware, chestnut related In-Reply-To: <389862036.1567790.1307050631806.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <03ae01cc2157$722ced00$5686c700$@rr.com> <389862036.1567790.1307050631806.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <044901cc2179$6563cae0$302b60a0$@rr.com> > Haven't researched archives, so don't feel obligated to respond. I > seem to remember hearing a couple of different recommendations on how > much to set the advance on a TR3A engine. ISTR one was 4 degrees, > another lister thought 8 degrees. Engine is at I think 4 right now, > but running as if it lacks the pep I'm used to. > > Thoughts? My suggestion would be to first confirm that both the centrifugal advance and vacuum advance are doing at least something. If either one has quit working, it can make the engine feel sluggish without actually running poorly. You'll need a timing light to confirm the centrifugal advance : Watch the timing mark while you slowly rev the engine up, observe that it moves gradually to the right with increasing rpm, without jumping around all over the place. For the vacuum advance, you'll also need a MityVac or similar (HF sells a cheap unit that seems to actually be better quality than MityVac). Disconnect the vacuum line from the distributor and hook your vacuum source in its place. Now watch the mark as you apply vacuum. If it moves at all, the unit is probably working OK. Then you can just do a quick feel to confirm the line isn't broken and dangling under the front carb. Then set the initial advance using the "road test" method : Advance by 2 degree steps until you can just barely make the engine knock deliberately (by lugging it in 4th gear with it warmed up thoroughly), and then back off by 2 degrees. -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jun 2 17:08:54 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 2 Jun 2011 16:08:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] Gear Shift Kob Rattle In-Reply-To: <751159952.1567656.1307050469495.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <03ae01cc2157$722ced00$5686c700$@rr.com> <751159952.1567656.1307050469495.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <044d01cc217a$0b7dc3e0$22794ba0$@rr.com> Yup, there's a spring inside the shifter mechanism that could be broken. You might also find this service note to be interesting http://tinyurl.com/3q2pwk2 -- Randall From agraham at execulink.com Thu Jun 2 19:31:50 2011 From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham) Date: Thu, 02 Jun 2011 21:31:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 Control head installation Message-ID: <4DE83986.9070000@execulink.com> Hello List: Puzzling over the control head installation. Finally got the new wires down the tube and control head in place. Have the lever at the 12:00 position and the 'tab' on the plate next to the stator tube in the 6:00 position. Is this the correct alignment for the head? Have a noticeable gap between the head and steering wheel hub. Is this OK? The head still moves when the grub screws are home. My screws were a bit beat up. Do they have to extend below the surface of the steering hub to make sufficient contact to secure the control head? Anyone know what size/thread the grub screws are? May have to find a new set. Many thanks for any help on this. Angelo Graham From wbeech at flash.net Thu Jun 2 20:38:49 2011 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Thu, 2 Jun 2011 20:38:49 -0600 Subject: [TR] Another Crazy Question: Beware, chestnut related In-Reply-To: <389862036.1567790.1307050631806.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <03ae01cc2157$722ced00$5686c700$@rr.com> <389862036.1567790.1307050631806.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: 4 degrees is what is called for, you could bump it up a couple with no adverse affects but listen closely for pinging under a load. If you hear pinging you either need to back it down or pony up for the next higher octane grade of petrol. Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of terryrs at comcast.net Sent: Thursday, June 02, 2011 3:37 PM To: triumph list list Subject: [TR] Another Crazy Question: Beware, chestnut related Haven't researched archives, so don't feel obligated to respond. I seem to remember hearing a couple of different recommendations on how much to set the advance on a TR3A engine. ISTR one was 4 degrees, another lister thought 8 degrees. Engine is at I think 4 right now, but running as if it lacks the pep I'm used to. Thoughts? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From mdporter at dfn.com Thu Jun 2 20:56:58 2011 From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter) Date: Thu, 02 Jun 2011 20:56:58 -0600 Subject: [TR] Another Crazy Question: Beware, chestnut related In-Reply-To: References: <03ae01cc2157$722ced00$5686c700$@rr.com> <389862036.1567790.1307050631806.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <4DE84D7A.7030202@dfn.com> On 6/2/2011 8:38 PM, wbeech at flash.net wrote: > 4 degrees is what is called for, you could bump it up a couple with no > adverse affects but listen closely for pinging under a load. If you hear > pinging you either need to back it down or pony up for the next higher > octane grade of petrol. > The complaints about poor performance at the recommended static advance deserve a check of total advance with a suitable strobe timing light (either by calculating total advance on the circumference of the pulley or using a timing light with an adjustable advance feature). I've seen plenty of distributors with sticky advance plates or seized-up centrifugal weights which will easily frustrate one. If adding advance screws up idle and off-idle performance, but improves performance higher up in the range, and subtracting static advance does the opposite, it's worth the time to check the advance curve across the entire range, because it will end up saving time and aggravation. Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From david.brister at wanadoo.fr Fri Jun 3 03:25:35 2011 From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister) Date: Fri, 3 Jun 2011 11:25:35 +0200 Subject: [TR] Grilling brake shoes - TR2 In-Reply-To: References: <18F3853BF2E84E35A113EEF37CEFE750@bboffice> Message-ID: Many years ago when my friends and I were penniless engineering apprentices interested only in motor bikes and girls we frequently found ourselves with oil or grease sodden brake shoes. We would soak them in petrol and paraffin and then light it. You could see the grease oozing out and burning in little bubbles. This treatment would be given two or three times and the brake linings cleaned and roughed up with a file (no worries about asbestos in those days) then reassembled. ISTR this worked very well. Of course in those days linings were made made mainly of asbestos. Whether modern products can stand that heat without damage I don?t know. Of course YMMV, David Brister 1967 TR4A -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Fri Jun 3 06:08:02 2011 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Fri, 3 Jun 2011 05:08:02 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] What Is It? Message-ID: <244995.42596.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Any BAT (Bringatrailer.com) readers out there? What is this car? It looks like some well made special or maybe prototype. http://bringatrailer.com/2011/06/02/join-us-in-july-for-the-2011-northwest-classic-rally/#more- Bill in Tehachapi From pethier at comcast.net Fri Jun 3 07:06:14 2011 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 3 Jun 2011 13:06:14 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] What Is It? In-Reply-To: <244995.42596.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1423422638.116546.1307106374150.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> The ungainly body shape says Jowett Jupiter, but the grill is all wrong. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack" 2004 Suburban 8.1 2005 Lotus Elise 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://www.mnautox.com ----- Original Message ----- > From: "William Brewer" > To: "Triumphs" > Cc: "Bill Brewer" > Sent: Friday, June 3, 2011 7:08:02 AM > Subject: [TR] What Is It? > > Any BAT (Bringatrailer.com) readers out there? What is this car? It > looks like some well made special or maybe prototype. > > http://bringatrailer.com/2011/06/02/join-us-in-july-for-the-2011-northwest-classic-rally/#more- From wbeech at flash.net Fri Jun 3 08:44:43 2011 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Fri, 3 Jun 2011 08:44:43 -0600 Subject: [TR] What Is It? In-Reply-To: <1423422638.116546.1307106374150.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <244995.42596.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <1423422638.116546.1307106374150.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Maybe a TR2 Prototype(TR1)? Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of pethier at comcast.net Sent: Friday, June 03, 2011 7:06 AM To: William Brewer Cc: Triumphs; Bill Brewer Subject: Re: [TR] What Is It? The ungainly body shape says Jowett Jupiter, but the grill is all wrong. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack" 2004 Suburban 8.1 2005 Lotus Elise 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://www.mnautox.com ----- Original Message ----- > From: "William Brewer" > To: "Triumphs" > Cc: "Bill Brewer" > Sent: Friday, June 3, 2011 7:08:02 AM > Subject: [TR] What Is It? > > Any BAT (Bringatrailer.com) readers out there? What is this car? It > looks like some well made special or maybe prototype. > > http://bringatrailer.com/2011/06/02/join-us-in-july-for-the-2011-north > west-classic-rally/#more- triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Fri Jun 3 08:50:55 2011 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Fri, 3 Jun 2011 07:50:55 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] What Is It? In-Reply-To: <1423422638.116546.1307106374150.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <161814.9722.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I think that it might be a Rover special. The grill looks Austin-ish. Bill --- On Fri, 6/3/11, pethier at comcast.net wrote: > From: pethier at comcast.net > Subject: Re: [TR] What Is It? > To: "William Brewer" > Cc: "Bill Brewer" , "Triumphs" > Date: Friday, June 3, 2011, 6:06 AM > The ungainly body shape says Jowett > Jupiter, but the grill is all wrong. > > Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA > 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack" > 2004 Suburban 8.1 > 2005 Lotus Elise > 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 > pethier [at] comcast [dot] net > http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier > http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk > http://www.mnautox.com > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > From: "William Brewer" > > To: "Triumphs" > > Cc: "Bill Brewer" > > Sent: Friday, June 3, 2011 7:08:02 AM > > Subject: [TR] What Is It? > > > > Any BAT (Bringatrailer.com) readers out there? What is > this car? It > > looks like some well made special or maybe prototype. > > > > http://bringatrailer.com/2011/06/02/join-us-in-july-for-the-2011-northwest-classic-rally/#more- > From jimmuller at rcn.com Fri Jun 3 08:55:24 2011 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Fri, 03 Jun 2011 10:55:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] What Is It? In-Reply-To: <1423422638.116546.1307106374150.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <244995.42596.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4DE8BD9C.5082.363C48F@localhost> On 3 Jun 2011 at 13:06, pethier at comcast.net wrote: > The ungainly body shape says Jowett Jupiter, but the grill is all wrong. I'd guess an Allard. Here is a 2009 model from the CCBCC British legends weekend: http://www.theworld.com/~muller/pics/2009allard.jpg The grill is not quite the same w.r.t. to the headlight placement, but it could be a different model or year. Or even an original? Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com From spitlist at cox.net Fri Jun 3 10:14:47 2011 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Fri, 3 Jun 2011 09:14:47 -0700 Subject: [TR] What Is It? In-Reply-To: <244995.42596.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <244995.42596.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2FF9D535A58045BEB47A1BB1DE19C264@Vista> The grill looks Aston Martin-ish Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer Sent: Friday, June 03, 2011 5:08 AM To: Triumphs Cc: Bill Brewer Subject: [TR] What Is It? Any BAT (Bringatrailer.com) readers out there? What is this car? It looks like some well made special or maybe prototype. http://bringatrailer.com/2011/06/02/join-us-in-july-for-the-2011-northwest-c lassic-rally/#more- Bill in Tehachapi triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jun 3 10:49:04 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 3 Jun 2011 09:49:04 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 Control head installation In-Reply-To: <4DE83986.9070000@execulink.com> References: <4DE83986.9070000@execulink.com> Message-ID: <056901cc220e$264def30$72e9cd90$@rr.com> > Have the lever at the 12:00 > position and the 'tab' on the plate next to the stator tube in the 6:00 > position. Is this the correct alignment for the head? Yes, assuming the wheel and steering are both in the "straight-ahead" position. > Do they have to extend below the surface of the steering hub > to make sufficient contact to secure the control head? Yes. You need to back them out so they are flush while installing the head, then snug them down until they grab the plate at the back of the head. Only the point will be protruding, by perhaps 1/16" - 1/8", but it has to come out to grab the plate. > Anyone know what size/thread the grub screws are? May have to find a > new set. Sorry, I don't know offhand. But screws with the point are hard to find (most setscrews have a circular tip, designed to dig into a flat surface), so I'd just buy the 'proper' ones. TRF has them listed under PN 59107, $1.75 each. At that price, I'm guessing they had them custom-made rather than finding an off-the-shelf part. -- Randall From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Fri Jun 3 10:57:11 2011 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net) Date: Fri, 03 Jun 2011 11:57:11 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] What Is It? Message-ID: <1360912481.1055511.1307120231236.JavaMail.root@vznit170134> It is an Alvis TB 14 ca. 1950. See: http://www.alvisoc.org/Site%20Files/Alvis%20Cars/Post-War/TA%2014.htm Carl Jun 3, 2011 12:14:48 PM, wsb1960tr3a at att.net wrote: Any BAT (Bringatrailer.com) readers out there? What is this car? It looks like some well made special or maybe prototype. http://bringatrailer.com/2011/06/02/join-us-in-july-for-the-2011-northwest-classic-rally/#more- Bill in Tehachapi triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From mmarr at notwires.com Fri Jun 3 12:55:44 2011 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Fri, 3 Jun 2011 13:55:44 -0500 Subject: [TR] What Is It? References: <1360912481.1055511.1307120231236.JavaMail.root@vznit170134> Message-ID: <6E780D7C08D541BF9BE12F3C061A5F13@trigeni.com> I always liked the Alvis TD/TF series - very elegant cars. One of the teachers at my grammar school (= high school in USA) had what I think must have been a TA saloon. This was in the early sixties. He made very grand entrances, as you can imagine, as it purred up the driveway. Coincidentally (going back to a previous guess as to what the original car was), another of my teachers had a Jowett Javelin, which required a good solid push to start it. As you can imagine, we were very enthusiastic pushers... Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Cc: ; Sent: Friday, June 03, 2011 11:57 AM Subject: Re: [TR] What Is It? > > It is an Alvis TB 14 ca. 1950. See: > http://www.alvisoc.org/Site%20Files/Alvis%20Cars/Post-War/TA%2014.htm > > Carl > > > > Jun 3, 2011 12:14:48 PM, wsb1960tr3a at att.net wrote: > > Any BAT (Bringatrailer.com) readers out there? What is this car? It looks > like some well made special or maybe prototype. > > http://bringatrailer.com/2011/06/02/join-us-in-july-for-the-2011-northwest-classic-rally/#more- > > > Bill in Tehachapi > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net > > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mmarr at notwires.com > > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive > From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jun 3 16:37:08 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 3 Jun 2011 15:37:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] Alternator Retrofit In-Reply-To: <3f513.ca652b0.3b1aadbf@aol.com> References: <3f513.ca652b0.3b1aadbf@aol.com> Message-ID: <060001cc223e$c6b4dbc0$541e9340$@rr.com> > Will something else work? There is a 55 amp Bosch alternator that will fit right into the 15 ACR mounts. It's a bit more expensive than the common Delcos (although Delco does make a similar unit); but my FLAPS had one on the shelf and the cost was only about $75 outright. I see Rockauto has several of them for $50 + shipping. Original equipment on a 78 Ford Fiesta with A/C (and a Bosch alternator, the Motorcraft unit is completely different). Another alternative is to cut into the alternator housing to make it fit. -- Randall From spitlist at cox.net Fri Jun 3 17:01:35 2011 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Fri, 3 Jun 2011 16:01:35 -0700 Subject: [TR] Alternator Retrofit In-Reply-To: <060001cc223e$c6b4dbc0$541e9340$@rr.com> References: <3f513.ca652b0.3b1aadbf@aol.com> <060001cc223e$c6b4dbc0$541e9340$@rr.com> Message-ID: That is the one I put on my Spit as well. It is not only mount compatible but also plug compatible. And unlike the Delco unit, it is small enough in physical size that it does not look out of place. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Friday, June 03, 2011 3:37 PM To: fot at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Alternator Retrofit > Will something else work? There is a 55 amp Bosch alternator that will fit right into the 15 ACR mounts. It's a bit more expensive than the common Delcos (although Delco does make a similar unit); but my FLAPS had one on the shelf and the cost was only about $75 outright. I see Rockauto has several of them for $50 + shipping. Original equipment on a 78 Ford Fiesta with A/C (and a Bosch alternator, the Motorcraft unit is completely different). Another alternative is to cut into the alternator housing to make it fit. -- Randall triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From terryrs at comcast.net Fri Jun 3 17:11:26 2011 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 3 Jun 2011 23:11:26 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Another Crazy Question: Beware, chestnut related In-Reply-To: <044901cc2179$6563cae0$302b60a0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <366396504.1621515.1307142686241.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> >My suggestion would be to first confirm that both the centrifugal advance >and vacuum advance are doing at least something. If either one has quit >working, it can make the engine feel sluggish without actually running >poorly. You'll need a timing light to confirm the centrifugal advance : >SNIP >For the vacuum advance, you'll also need a MityVac SNIP >Disconnect the vacuum line from the distributor and hook your vacuum source >in its place. Now watch the mark as you apply vacuum. If it moves at all, >the unit is probably working OK. SNIP >Then set the initial advance using the "road test" method : Advance by 2 >degree steps until you can just barely make the engine knock deliberately >(by lugging it in 4th gear with it warmed up thoroughly), and then back off >by 2 degrees. Lord I love this List! Nuanced follow up question, then. I replaced the copper vacuum tube with a rubber tube that fits over that. Is there a Physics type reason that's a bad idea? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jun 3 18:49:16 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 3 Jun 2011 17:49:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] Another Crazy Question: Beware, chestnut related In-Reply-To: <366396504.1621515.1307142686241.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <044901cc2179$6563cae0$302b60a0$@rr.com> <366396504.1621515.1307142686241.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <062a01cc2251$3baf2090$0301a8c0@randall> > I replaced the copper > vacuum tube with a rubber tube that fits over that. Is there > a Physics type reason that's a bad idea? Should be fine, as long as the vacuum goes where it should and not where it shouldn't. IOW, make sure it fits snugly over the copper (or original steel) line at the ends, and won't collapse under vacuum. -- Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jun 3 18:58:04 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 3 Jun 2011 17:58:04 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 clutch return spring question In-Reply-To: <551D7544204249C897C35BFC1E98180D@valued9cfc0b6f> References: <551D7544204249C897C35BFC1E98180D@valued9cfc0b6f> Message-ID: <062b01cc2252$765757c0$0301a8c0@randall> It's supposed to be real tight; but you should be using the Girling spring unless you somehow wound up with the clutch slave from an early car with front drum brakes. That's interesting about the Lockheed spring being shorter, though. My late TR6 gearbox housing moves the bracket back closer to the clevis, so the stock spring is just a little too long (causing the clutch pedal engagement point to be higher some times and lower other times). I made a little sub-bracket to compensate, but the Lockheed spring might work better. If you aren't strong enough to stretch the spring in to place, one trick is to back off the pushrod adjustment all the way, install the spring, and then readjust the pushrod. -- Randall From anabil007 at comcast.net Fri Jun 3 19:11:16 2011 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Fri, 3 Jun 2011 18:11:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] Castrol Brake Fluif Message-ID: I have just been told that ALL containers of Castrol Brake Fluif, are labeled "Synthetic" ... but what it really means is that it is DOT 3/4, which is "compatible" with all synthetics ... Anyone heard anything about this ??? -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jun 3 19:33:55 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 3 Jun 2011 18:33:55 -0700 Subject: [TR] Castrol Brake Fluif In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <063201cc2257$786b0340$0301a8c0@randall> Yup. I've been telling everyone for years now that according to Castrol, "synthetic" means only that it came out of a modern refinery, instead of directly out of the ground. In other words, the term is legally meaningless, like "fresh frozen fish". And there is absolutely no doubt that "synthetic" does NOT mean anywhere the same thing as "DOT 5" or "Silicone". -- Randall From pethier at comcast.net Fri Jun 3 22:05:06 2011 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 4 Jun 2011 04:05:06 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Castrol Brake Fluif In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1951064096.155261.1307160306214.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Just remember that "synthetic" and "silicone" are not the same thing. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack" 2004 Suburban 8.1 2005 Lotus Elise 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://www.mnautox.com ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Bill" > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Friday, June 3, 2011 8:11:16 PM > Subject: [TR] Castrol Brake Fluif > > I have just been told that ALL containers of Castrol Brake Fluif, are > > labeled "Synthetic" ... but what it really means is that it is DOT > 3/4, which is "compatible" with all synthetics ... > > Anyone heard anything about this ??? > -- > "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people > undertake it." - Henry Ford > Bill Pugh > 1957 TR3 > "Casper" > TS16765L > Wallace, CA > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net > > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Jun 4 05:42:01 2011 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 4 Jun 2011 07:42:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] Castrol Brake Fluif In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0FA2FB5B126D48BCBD12E16DE5CADA55@BobPC> We discussed this a few years ago.............................. Castrol had a "Dilbert" moment when they decided that by adding the word synthetic to the label made it sound hi-tech. Still the same stuff and not to be confused with DOT 5 sillycone. Bob Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 1975 TR6 with: Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff & CVJs -----Original Message----- From: Bill Sent: Friday, June 03, 2011 9:11 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Castrol Brake Fluif I have just been told that ALL containers of Castrol Brake Fluif, are labeled "Synthetic" ... but what it really means is that it is DOT 3/4, which is "compatible" with all synthetics ... Anyone heard anything about this ??? -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sat Jun 4 09:06:33 2011 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sat, 04 Jun 2011 11:06:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] Interior vinyl installation question Message-ID: What is the consensus of the list about getting the wrinkles out of vinyl before installation. The vinyl has several 'in' and 'out' wrinkles where it was folded. I tried letting them sit in the Florida sun/heat yesterday but it had very little effect. Will they come out as I apply glue and stretch on the dash/cubby door/capping pieces? Or do I try to steam them or iron them or something else such as wetting them down before the sun/heat? Thank you Carl From spitlist at cox.net Sat Jun 4 09:21:46 2011 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sat, 4 Jun 2011 08:21:46 -0700 Subject: [TR] Interior vinyl installation question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <67F6F2B14DCD4BC58BD21E77F3083935@Vista> A blow dryer is a big help. Heat the material as you stretch it during application. That is the best I can recommend. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl TR Sent: Saturday, June 04, 2011 8:07 AM To: TR List Subject: [TR] Interior vinyl installation question What is the consensus of the list about getting the wrinkles out of vinyl before installation. The vinyl has several 'in' and 'out' wrinkles where it was folded. I tried letting them sit in the Florida sun/heat yesterday but it had very little effect. Will they come out as I apply glue and stretch on the dash/cubby door/capping pieces? Or do I try to steam them or iron them or something else such as wetting them down before the sun/heat? Thank you Carl triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Jun 4 09:24:12 2011 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 4 Jun 2011 11:24:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] Interior vinyl installation question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Whenever I buy vinyl for making up a set of TR6 interior panels (http://ebay.danielsonfamily.org/InteriorPanelText.htm) I always have them roll the vinyl onto a tube to prevent wrinkles. However, when I do a leather interior panel set, the leather is always shipped folded and is all wrinkled. So with leather, I end up laying it face down on the ironing board, covering the backside with a towel and iron it on the lowest steam setting. I've also ironed vinyl the same way starting at a very low heat setting but all vinyl's are not constructed the same. What I use has a backing and can take more heat then one without a backing so test it on a small section first. When you stretch and glue it, the rest of the wrinkles should come out. Bob Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 1975 TR6 with: Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff & CVJs -----Original Message----- From: Carl TR Sent: Saturday, June 04, 2011 11:06 AM To: TR List Subject: [TR] Interior vinyl installation question What is the consensus of the list about getting the wrinkles out of vinyl before installation. The vinyl has several 'in' and 'out' wrinkles where it was folded. I tried letting them sit in the Florida sun/heat yesterday but it had very little effect. Will they come out as I apply glue and stretch on the dash/cubby door/capping pieces? Or do I try to steam them or iron them or something else such as wetting them down before the sun/heat? Thank you Carl triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From wbeech at flash.net Sat Jun 4 11:54:35 2011 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Sat, 4 Jun 2011 11:54:35 -0600 Subject: [TR] Interior vinyl installation question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3DD9A83E75F74E59B6888E2F3B25CF85@bboffice> I set the vinyl in front of the heater vent for about 5 minutes and it stretched right onto the dash and cappings with no problems or fold marks. My biggest headache was the leather door capping, trying to finish off the ends without denting the flimsy chrome end caps. Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl TR Sent: Saturday, June 04, 2011 9:07 AM To: TR List Subject: [TR] Interior vinyl installation question What is the consensus of the list about getting the wrinkles out of vinyl before installation. The vinyl has several 'in' and 'out' wrinkles where it was folded. I tried letting them sit in the Florida sun/heat yesterday but it had very little effect. Will they come out as I apply glue and stretch on the dash/cubby door/capping pieces? Or do I try to steam them or iron them or something else such as wetting them down before the sun/heat? Thank you Carl triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From anabil007 at comcast.net Sat Jun 4 13:10:51 2011 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Sat, 4 Jun 2011 12:10:51 -0700 Subject: [TR] Castrol Brake Fluif In-Reply-To: <0FA2FB5B126D48BCBD12E16DE5CADA55@BobPC> References: <0FA2FB5B126D48BCBD12E16DE5CADA55@BobPC> Message-ID: Thanks, Phil pointed out that "synthetic, was not equal to silicone" ... now I can take back my Gunk fluif and exchange it for what I wanted in the first place ... never too old to learn. >We discussed this a few years ago.............................. >Castrol had a "Dilbert" moment when they decided that by adding the >word synthetic to the label made it sound hi-tech. Still the same >stuff and not to be confused with DOT 5 sillycone. > >Bob > > >Bob Danielson >http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org >1975 TR6 with: >Throttle Body Injection >Toyota 5 Speed >Nissan Diff & CVJs From spitlist at cox.net Sat Jun 4 15:13:20 2011 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sat, 4 Jun 2011 14:13:20 -0700 Subject: [TR] [Spits] Cup Holders for Triumphs In-Reply-To: <34220.5b9bc263.3b1bf511@aol.com> References: <34220.5b9bc263.3b1bf511@aol.com> Message-ID: I used to have a pair of cheap plastic cup holders that hang off the insides of the door glass openings. They worked pretty well but Since I was too busy driving, I never used them in either of my Triumphs. Joe -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TR250Driver at aol.com Sent: Saturday, June 04, 2011 1:53 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Cc: spitfires at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [Spits] Cup Holders for Triumphs Hey Folks, Beverly, my wife & ace navigator is sort of big time frustrated. She likes my Triumphs but insists that the major flaw in all of them is the absence of suitable Cup Holders! I usually give her my cup to hold whilst I am running thru the gears and there she sits hers & mine in hand not only navigating but cup holding as well. More often than not one or both cups get spilled on the carpet. It happened this morning as we took off in the 250 to join our fellow NCTA members for a drive to Mary Yoders for lunch and a tour of Ohio's Amish Country. I am posting this request on her behalf. What say the List? Do any of you have any cool methods of holding you cups in Triumphs? Thanks in Advance, Darrell _______________________________________________ Spitfires at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spitfires/spitlist at cox.net From pethier at comcast.net Sat Jun 4 17:43:36 2011 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 4 Jun 2011 23:43:36 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Going my way with an empty trailer? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1848591287.175590.1307231016882.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> ask on autotransport at yahoogroups.com You want to deal either with private guys like racers or car guys like us or with reputable comercial outfits like Passport. You do NOT want to deal with any kind of broker; you wind up with Bubba and his girlfriend Darlene. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack" 2004 Suburban 8.1 2005 Lotus Elise 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://www.mnautox.com ----- Original Message ----- > From: "bill beecher" > To: "Triumphs" , "British Motor Club" > Sent: Saturday, June 4, 2011 9:22:20 AM > Subject: [TR] Going my way with an empty trailer? > > Hello List, > > Looking for space (about the size of a TR3) on a trailer that might be > coming through Salt Lake City, or near by, going to Abilene, Texas, or > near by(even DFW). Of course I will be happy to help with your > reasonable travel costs. > > Relocating to sunny skies so I can drive 9 months out of the year. > > TIA, > Bill > > > Bill Beecher > '58 TR-3A TS30766L " Tarbaby " > www.triumphowners.com/1566 > "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is > called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net > > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sat Jun 4 19:24:54 2011 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Sat, 4 Jun 2011 20:24:54 -0500 Subject: [TR] off topic - Tuscaloosa (Alabama) Tornado T shirts - inventory reduction sale In-Reply-To: References: <34220.5b9bc263.3b1bf511@aol.com>, Message-ID: <139D01964F6147CA92845A467A012750@ranteer.local> Support the relief effort in Tuscaloosa by buying a Tee shirt at www.PrayForTTown.com. My son, Carlton Northrup, a senior at University of Alabama designed these shirts in order to raise funds for the tornado victims a few blocks from his apartment. Too many t-shirts left..2 for 1!!!!!...still time to help the victims in Tuscaloosa!!! From bjzwissler at gmail.com Sun Jun 5 10:19:38 2011 From: bjzwissler at gmail.com (Ben Zwissler) Date: Sun, 05 Jun 2011 12:19:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4A Gear Lube Recommendations Message-ID: <4DEBAC9A.7050606@gmail.com> Hello, I'm looking for some advice on the lube to use in my TR4A transmission w/the electric overdrive. I rebuilt it with new synchros and it has about 1500 miles on it. I started with "normal" GL-5 MT-1 80W90 gear oil. It worked well overall, and shifts smoothly in all gears, up and down, when its cold or warm. However, if I drive for 30 minutes or more getting the transmission fully warmed up and make "spirited" shifts, upshifts from 2nd to 3rd result in some grinding. All other upshifts and downshifts are smooth. I switched to some synthetic blend 75W90 GL-5 MT-1 and it works no better. Maybe a little less balky when cold, but no better and maybe worse on the hot 2-3 upshifts. I have a TR8 and use the GM/Pennzoil synchromesh fluid there, but wasn't sure if the TR4A box w/overdrive would like that. I'm looking for advice on if anyone has had the same problem and how they resolved it. I'm wondering if I shouldn't be going to straight 90 weight oil since it seems to work worse when the oil is hot and presumably thinner. People seem to switch the the GM fluid to resolve cold shift issues so I'm afraid that may take me the wrong direction here. My other choice is to get better at matching engine speed to tranny speed and making slower shifts. Thanks, Ben.... -- Ben Zwissler bjzwissler at gmail.com Columbus, IN 1966 Triumph TR4A 1973 MG Midget 1980 Triumph TR8 2007 Mazda RX8 2002 Yamaha FZ1 2003 Honda ST1300 From anabil007 at comcast.net Sun Jun 5 10:40:52 2011 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Sun, 5 Jun 2011 09:40:52 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4A Gear Lube Recommendations In-Reply-To: <4DEBAC9A.7050606@gmail.com> References: <4DEBAC9A.7050606@gmail.com> Message-ID: Hi Ben, I think you might take a hard, long, look at your transmission, I doubt lube would cause the symptoms you describe, unless it had all leaked out ... But as this list well knows, I have be wrong before. >Hello, > >I'm looking for some advice on the lube to use in my TR4A >transmission w/the electric overdrive. I rebuilt it with new >synchros and it has about 1500 miles on it. I started with "normal" >GL-5 MT-1 80W90 gear oil. It worked well overall, and shifts >smoothly in all gears, up and down, when its cold or warm. However, >if I drive for 30 minutes or more getting the transmission fully >warmed up and make "spirited" shifts, upshifts from 2nd to 3rd >result in some grinding. All other upshifts and downshifts are >smooth. I switched to some synthetic blend 75W90 GL-5 MT-1 and it >works no better. Maybe a little less balky when cold, but no better >and maybe worse on the hot 2-3 upshifts. > -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sun Jun 5 10:41:31 2011 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sun, 05 Jun 2011 12:41:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] Interior vinyl installation question - thanks - and followup questions Message-ID: Thank you to all that responded. I dampened them and then set them in the sun and most evened out enough (I hope). I did a it a second time on the worst two and placed concrete blocks on them and that did the trick on them. Now to a couple other questions. I need to put a couple holes in the dash to accommodate: 1) I have an accessory plug (period cigar lighter) that I want to mount for phone charger, GPS, or other use. Although the owner's guide indicates that the washer pump knob goes between the cubby box and center panel, I was thinking that would be a more logical place for that plug, especially with the ashtray (coin/cell phone holder) mounted just below it. The washer pump would be between the tach and the other side of the center panel. Anyone have any thoughts about it? The alternative would be to make a bracket to mount on the dash support next to the ashtray. 2) I was trying to decide if an indicator lamp would be beneficial for letting me know that the fog/spot lamps are on (I think just one lamp for both). Anyone have the fog/spots that can provide insight whether necessary? Placement is another issue. Two possibilities - on the left above the heater/overdrive switches (in fact could place two there) or in the area between the speedo & tach. If I went with the latter, I could move the turn signal indicator to that location and put the fog/spot on the center panel. I have matching red, yellow, or green indicator lamps to use. Again - anyone have any thoughts? I still need to figure out how to hook-up but that is later. Just curious - anyone have any other 'I wish I had a lamp to tell me that' ideas? Thanks Carl Quotes from TRA judging guide: Windscreen Washer Control - Cars equipped with windscreen washers had a manually operated pump usually mounted between the cubbybox door and the center panel. Radios and Other Options/Add-on - A variety of radios, cigar lighters, map lights, anti-dazzle mirrors, and such were fitted to the cars. Some were factory approved arrangements, some were purely aftermarket additions. Do not deduct for period or period appearing accessories that are tastefully fitted in a manner consistent with the age of the car. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl TR Sent: Saturday, June 04, 2011 11:07 AM To: TR List Subject: [TR] Interior vinyl installation question What is the consensus of the list about getting the wrinkles out of vinyl before installation. From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sun Jun 5 11:29:31 2011 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sun, 05 Jun 2011 13:29:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 Control head installation In-Reply-To: <056901cc220e$264def30$72e9cd90$@rr.com> References: <4DE83986.9070000@execulink.com> <056901cc220e$264def30$72e9cd90$@rr.com> Message-ID: <002f01cc23a6$224a74f0$66df5ed0$@net> Does anyone have the correct pump knob unit and can measure the hole size? I have several non-original ones and can mount one temporarily but I want to make sure the hole isn't different. Thanks Carl From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jun 5 11:33:08 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 5 Jun 2011 10:33:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] Interior vinyl installation question - thanks - and followup questions In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000101cc23a6$a2d9ae60$0301a8c0@randall> > 2) I was trying to decide if an indicator lamp would be beneficial for > letting me know that the fog/spot lamps are on When driving where it's actually dark (as opposed to in the city), I really hate having any kind of bright indicator lamp on where I can see it. Your eyes respond to total light received, so a light even in your peripheral vision will cause your irises to close and make it harder to see the (dark) road). Some of my cars even have a band-aid stuck over the high beam indicator! A better alternative might be a simple 12v buzzer and a diode, connected so the buzzer only comes on when the lights are on but the ignition is off. It could be hidden under the dash, so not take up valuable panel space either. Add another diode, and the same buzzer could indicate when you've left the headlights on. -- Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jun 5 11:35:43 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 5 Jun 2011 10:35:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4A Gear Lube Recommendations In-Reply-To: <4DEBAC9A.7050606@gmail.com> References: <4DEBAC9A.7050606@gmail.com> Message-ID: <000801cc23a6$ff4d6fb0$0301a8c0@randall> > I'm looking for some advice on the lube to use in my TR4A > transmission > w/the electric overdrive. Try Redline MT-90. It is specifically designed for synchronized manual transmissions, so it's not "too slick" for good synchronizer operation. If that doesn't work, I think you need new synchro rings again. -- Randall From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sun Jun 5 12:35:55 2011 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sun, 05 Jun 2011 14:35:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 Windshield Washer Pump question In-Reply-To: <002f01cc23a6$224a74f0$66df5ed0$@net> References: <4DE83986.9070000@execulink.com> <056901cc220e$264def30$72e9cd90$@rr.com> <002f01cc23a6$224a74f0$66df5ed0$@net> Message-ID: <003c01cc23af$690ab4a0$3b201de0$@net> Corrected subject line. Sorry. Does anyone have the correct pump knob unit and can measure the hole size? I have several non-original ones and can mount one temporarily but I want to make sure the hole isn't different. Thanks Carl From levilevi at comcast.net Sun Jun 5 16:54:57 2011 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Sun, 5 Jun 2011 16:54:57 -0600 Subject: [TR] Interior vinyl installation question - thanks - and followup questions In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I drilled a couple holes in the bottom of my ashtray and added a fan- on light and a manual switch for the fan. I glued the fan-on light on the lid of the ashtray so that when the manual switch has been flipped to on the lid won't shut...sort of moron proofed it for myself so you can't turn the electric fan on and accidently forget its on and run down the battery, because there's a red light staring at you. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Jun 5, 2011, at 1:18 PM, Chris Simo wrote: > I was thinking about putting a small blue LED in the turn signal > indicator bezel From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jun 5 17:02:23 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 5 Jun 2011 16:02:23 -0700 Subject: [TR] electrical-lever/vertical link issues In-Reply-To: <951F80D07B2F43138BEE5478875F46FD@AlexPC> References: <951F80D07B2F43138BEE5478875F46FD@AlexPC> Message-ID: <007901cc23d4$a1d288b0$0301a8c0@randall> > Except when I touched the jumper to the light base, > both bulbs shine equally bright. That sounds like you have the passenger side wired wrong, so the tail light filament is coming on for the brakes. The tail light filament is deliberately much dimmer than the brake light. To double check, just connect the two base contacts together with the brake lights on. If the bulb gets substantially brighter, that is the problem. > Tried to > tighten them and they will not tighten down. They also will > not unscrew. Did you have a wrench on the bolt heads? TRF supplies HB924 and HB928, which are 3/8" UNF, 3" and 3-1/2" respectively. -- Randall From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sun Jun 5 18:51:29 2011 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sun, 05 Jun 2011 20:51:29 -0400 Subject: [TR] Interior vinyl installation question - thanks - and followup questions In-Reply-To: <000101cc23a6$a2d9ae60$0301a8c0@randall> References: <000101cc23a6$a2d9ae60$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <000001cc23e3$e210ec50$a632c4f0$@net> I like the idea of the unobtrusive buzzer. So no additional hole for the lamp. Thanks Randall... However, I still need the dimension of the windshield washer pump mounting hole so that I can complete prepping the dash fascia. The not-so-original I have (just a push button not a knob) is 5/8" but I want to be sure an original (if I can find one) will fit. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall A better alternative might be a simple 12v buzzer and a diode, connected so the buzzer only comes on when the lights are on but the ignition is off. It could be hidden under the dash, so not take up valuable panel space either. Add another diode, and the same buzzer could indicate when you've left the headlights on. -- Randall From ambritts at bellsouth.net Sun Jun 5 19:11:49 2011 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Sun, 5 Jun 2011 21:11:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] electrical-lever/vertical link issues In-Reply-To: <007901cc23d4$a1d288b0$0301a8c0@randall> References: <951F80D07B2F43138BEE5478875F46FD@AlexPC> <007901cc23d4$a1d288b0$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: Hey Randall, Frank Fisher suggested the same thing. Definitely sounds like a logical answer. Will try that and report back. > Did you have a wrench on the bolt heads? Duh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Noooooooooooooo! :o( Must have left my head in bed this morning. Thanks to all! Alex ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "'Alex'" ; "'*Triumphs List'" Sent: Sunday, June 05, 2011 7:02 PM Subject: RE: [TR] electrical-lever/vertical link issues >> Except when I touched the jumper to the light base, >> both bulbs shine equally bright. > > That sounds like you have the passenger side wired wrong, so the tail > light > filament is coming on for the brakes. The tail light filament is > deliberately much dimmer than the brake light. To double check, just > connect the two base contacts together with the brake lights on. If the > bulb gets substantially brighter, that is the problem. > >> Tried to >> tighten them and they will not tighten down. They also will >> not unscrew. > > Did you have a wrench on the bolt heads? > > TRF supplies HB924 and HB928, which are 3/8" UNF, 3" and 3-1/2" > respectively. > > -- Randall > > From agraham at execulink.com Mon Jun 6 08:05:55 2011 From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham) Date: Mon, 06 Jun 2011 10:05:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 -windshield Dzus, Message-ID: <4DECDEC3.2090409@execulink.com> Hello List: Puzzling over the new set of Dzus fasteners for the windshield mounting on the 2/3. These fasteners have a slot engagement on the head with a spring. How are they installed? My old ones don't have a washer; just the spring and the slightly expanded or ridged end holding the fastener into the windshield mounting arm. How do you get the old ones out of the mounting arm? Grind the ends off? Thought they might mount the same way as the bonnet Dzus with the expanded washers, but doesn't look that way. Thanks for any help. Angelo Graham From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Mon Jun 6 08:47:36 2011 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net) Date: Mon, 06 Jun 2011 09:47:36 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] TR3A wiring questions Message-ID: <1813719964.1170687.1307371657007.JavaMail.root@vznit170072> Dave - just went through this myself. According to the parts catalog (don't ask me where I found it - it was buried) there is a metal bullet connector which fastens somewhere on the shock tower/horn support. P/N 236366A. When I asked where it goes, Randall suggested to just install ground leads from the horn mount to somewhere closer to the lamps. Would make it easier for r/r later. I haven't gotten back in there to finish the job so don't know how I'll end up doing it. The clips are available (if you go that route) from TRF - or - I ordered a pair but found another two in the parts pile so let me know and we can work out something (donation to team.net) Yes on the wiper motor. it mounts under the left front leg of the support bracket. C Yes Jun 6, 2011 12:27:07 PM, dwillner at ptd.net wrote: Replaced the harness yesterday, and have the majority of connections in place, couple questions regarding the headlights and front turn signals/parking lights. The headlight harness have "blue/white" and "blue/red" colors which I believe snap into the triple connectors of the same color on the main harness, there is also a black ground wire, do they ground to the frame "screw" in back on the horns? Also, on the front blinkers the "green/white" and "green/red" wires snap into the double connectors with the same colors I believe, and the red wire snaps into the red on the main harness "triple connector," correct? There is also a black ground wire and I'm not sure where that connects on the Lucas bulb holder, and does that too ground to the screw in back of the horns? Are there 3 bullet connectors on the front bulb holders? On the wiper motor, E = ground (black), 1 = black/green, 2 = green, correct? There is also a separate black wire with an eyelet close to these three, does that ground under the wiper motor bracket (seems familiar)... Appreciate the help, may have a few more... Dave Willner Stroudsburg PA 59 TR3A 70 MGB 70 BSA 441 VS From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jun 6 09:27:20 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2011 08:27:20 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 -windshield Dzus, In-Reply-To: <4DECDEC3.2090409@execulink.com> References: <4DECDEC3.2090409@execulink.com> Message-ID: <014801cc245e$3a9598b0$0301a8c0@randall> > My old ones don't have a washer; just > the spring and the slightly expanded or ridged end holding > the fastener > into the windshield mounting arm. I believe they should have washers, P/N 554721. At least my cars have had them, and the spare stanchion I just checked has them. > How do you get the old ones out of the mounting arm? ISTR I stuck a pin punch into the center of the button and tapped them out; using a heavy socket or similar to support the stanchion and receive the button. -- Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jun 6 09:36:18 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2011 08:36:18 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A wiring questions In-Reply-To: <6502A6BA700A41CB93B75AB0A0FC1ED8@valued9cfc0b6f> References: <6502A6BA700A41CB93B75AB0A0FC1ED8@valued9cfc0b6f> Message-ID: <014c01cc245f$7b0d6430$0301a8c0@randall> > there is also a black ground wire, > do they ground to the frame "screw" in back on the horns? Not the horn mounting bolts originally, but a spring metal clip secured to the body with a self-tapping screw, on the little platform just behind the horn mounts. > Also, on the front blinkers the "green/white" and "green/red" > wires snap into the double connectors with the same colors I > believe, and the red wire snaps into the red on the main > harness "triple connector," correct? Yes. However, if you want things to actually work, I suggest replacing all of the sleeve connectors. Unfortunately the triples are NLA, so that means either substituting 3 "singles", or trying to remove the inner conductor from some new singles and inserting them into the old triple sleeves. > There is also a black > ground wire and I'm not sure where that connects on the Lucas > bulb holder, and does that too ground to the screw in back of > the horns? Are there 3 bullet connectors on the front bulb holders? Yes, and yes (at least there should be). The ground connector is on the side of the metal socket, while the two 'hot' connectors stick out the back end. Unfortunately I don't know any better method of finding which hot connector is which, than to apply power and see which one lights the bright filament (which gets the green/red or green/white wire). -- Randall From tjwakeman at gmail.com Mon Jun 6 11:13:45 2011 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Mon, 06 Jun 2011 10:13:45 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 brake pipe source In-Reply-To: References: <68DAA44BCCFD4CB4BCFC4E592B2612F5@valued9cfc0b6f> Message-ID: <4DED0AC9.1050501@gmail.com> I just used lengths of brake tubing from my local auto parts store. You remove one flare, then remove the US spec fittings, run one UK spec fitting to the remaining flare end, bend the tube to shape, cut it to fit, slide a second UK fitting on and make a new flare. No big deal. Last time I needed some a company called Rovers North carried new UK spec brake tube fittings and I got my flare making tool from Eastwood. Instead of a universal fit line that is usually a little too long and comes coiled you get a straight line that you add the bends to and you cut it to the correct length. Everything looks much neater afterwords Piece O cake! Just don't use US fittings to mate to UK fittings. Teriann From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jun 6 11:52:29 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2011 10:52:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 brake pipe source In-Reply-To: <4DED0AC9.1050501@gmail.com> References: <68DAA44BCCFD4CB4BCFC4E592B2612F5@valued9cfc0b6f> <4DED0AC9.1050501@gmail.com> Message-ID: <0a6e01cc2472$81d6c730$85845590$@rr.com> Or there is always http://store.fedhillusa.com/britishgirlingbrakelinenutsandfittings.aspx -- Randall From davidt at opentext.com Mon Jun 6 13:41:00 2011 From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton) Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2011 15:41:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 brake pipe source In-Reply-To: <460990.99108.qm@web28316.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> References: <0a6e01cc2472$81d6c730$85845590$@rr.com> <460990.99108.qm@web28316.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Message-ID: When I got my pipes for the '3a I was told copper is actually illegal, that is why the copper coloured steel ones are available David From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Macartney Sent: Monday, June 06, 2011 2:25 PM To Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 brake pipe source Enlightenment appreciated. All these pipes seem to be plated steel? What's wrong with double-flanged copper? Easier to work with and impervious to corrosion, though of course there might be a cost penalty. ? Jonmac From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Mon Jun 6 14:26:41 2011 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2011 13:26:41 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 Trunk Rack Pads Message-ID: <136036.92914.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I'm installing a trunk rack on the TR3A. It's the kind that has the forward mounts going thru the hinge pins and the rear rests on rubber suction cup type mounts. ISTR that someone said that the pads work through the paint eventually. Is there anything that can be done like fitting a felt under the "suction cup" rubber mounts? Maybe that would abrade as well. Maybe you just have to keep it waxed underneath. TIA, -Bill Brewer From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jun 6 14:36:57 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2011 13:36:57 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 brake pipe source In-Reply-To: References: <0a6e01cc2472$81d6c730$85845590$@rr.com> <460990.99108.qm@web28316.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <0a8c01cc2489$7bd57d10$73807730$@rr.com> There are different kinds of "copper". Certainly ordinary copper tubing, like that used for water or air lines, is inappropriate. With usage and vibration, it can work-harden and become brittle, leading to leaks opening at the worst possible moment. However, I suspect Jonmac is referring to a specific copper/nickel/iron alloy that was invented just for use in automotive braking systems, called Cunifer. Cunifer is DOT-approved, and fully legal for use in the US. I rather like it myself, and have been slowly converting my TR3 to it. It bends easily with your fingers, and is much easier to form a proper flare. (I found it practically impossible to get a good 'bubble' flare starting with the plated steel line sold at my FLAPS.) Moss sells sets of it (although it's not obvious from their website that they are, in fact, Cunifer). The only downside that I have discovered so far is that it is rather more susceptible to abrasion than the original steel line. I didn't get one of the caliper crossover pipes bent right, and the wheel rubbed a hole through it in just a few weeks driving (without any untoward noises). Fortunately, I was barely moving when it started to leak. http://tinyurl.com/4yc4yf9 -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jun 6 16:22:14 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2011 15:22:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] rear axle seal TR3 In-Reply-To: <404177.66861.qm@web120213.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <404177.66861.qm@web120213.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <0acd01cc2498$311ffa70$935fef50$@rr.com> First question, is the leak grease or gear oil? If it is gear oil, then it is the inner seal that is leaking, and it does not take a hub puller to replace it. If it is grease, then most likely the bearing has been over-greased and the leak will stop if you stop greasing the bearing so much. There is a TSB that warns about this. Haven't made a hub puller myself yet ... well, more accurately I haven't made one that works every time However, I've put a couple of documents up at http://tinyurl.com/56gylc that others have written. Look for "Tony Gordon Rear Hub rebuild notes plus blueprint" for a drawing of the original Churchill tool; and "TR3 Rear Axle and Hub Separator" for a variation on the theme. -- Randall From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Mon Jun 6 17:22:25 2011 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Mon, 06 Jun 2011 19:22:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 Windshield Washer Pump question - image link added Message-ID: Image of the needed washer pump... http://s1001.photobucket.com/albums/af136/cfmtr3a/Information%20Items/?actio n=view¤t=WasherPump.jpg it looks like it is 5/8 -3/4 inch. Does anyone have the correct pump knob unit and can measure the hole size? I have several non-original ones and can mount one temporarily but I want to make sure the hole isn't different. Thanks Carl From ambritts at bellsouth.net Mon Jun 6 18:47:12 2011 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2011 20:47:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] electrical-lever/vertical link issues In-Reply-To: <007901cc23d4$a1d288b0$0301a8c0@randall> References: <951F80D07B2F43138BEE5478875F46FD@AlexPC> <007901cc23d4$a1d288b0$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: Switched the wires tonight.......no difference. Reattached the jump to the lens screw in the light base from the drivers side and the light doubled in intensity. Lights are nice and bright though, much safer, but still not right. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "'Alex'" ; "'*Triumphs List'" Sent: Sunday, June 05, 2011 7:02 PM Subject: RE: [TR] electrical-lever/vertical link issues >> Except when I touched the jumper to the light base, >> both bulbs shine equally bright. > > That sounds like you have the passenger side wired wrong, so the tail > light > filament is coming on for the brakes. The tail light filament is > deliberately much dimmer than the brake light. To double check, just > connect the two base contacts together with the brake lights on. If the > bulb gets substantially brighter, that is the problem. > >> Tried to >> tighten them and they will not tighten down. They also will >> not unscrew. > > Did you have a wrench on the bolt heads? > > TRF supplies HB924 and HB928, which are 3/8" UNF, 3" and 3-1/2" > respectively. > > -- Randall > > From thenicholls at verizon.net Mon Jun 6 19:13:12 2011 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Mon, 06 Jun 2011 20:13:12 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] LelandWest Classic Car Insurance Message-ID: <2145675940.1220953.1307409192475.JavaMail.root@vznit170076> Does anyone on the list use LelandWest for insuring their classic car? State Farm will not give me the agreed to value I want without an appraisal, heck the appraisal could pay for 1.5 years of insurance. They seem to have the lowest quotes, a reasonable usage policy, and for an extra charge, allow you to drive to work twice per week. I see no complaints about them through searching the web, but if anyone on the list has them or any experience with them I would appreciate it. Thanks, Craig 1972 Triumph TR6 Vienna, VA From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Mon Jun 6 19:33:04 2011 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2011 21:33:04 -0400 Subject: [TR] control head - tr2 turnsignals - no conductivity Message-ID: buzzed out my control head and does not look like I get any connectivity from common to the left or right leads. The car has been sitting over over 30 years - any ideas on how to coax some conductivitity without taking it apart? Thanks From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jun 7 12:08:28 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2011 11:08:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] control head - tr2 turnsignals - no conductivity In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0c8801cc253d$e746ee80$b5d4cb80$@rr.com> > buzzed out my control head and does not look like I get any > connectivity from common to the left or right leads. > > The car has been sitting over over 30 years - any ideas on how to > coax some conductivitity without taking it apart? You could try turning the wheel 1/4 turn or so, and flipping the switch back and forth a few times. But I think the odds are good that you're going to have to take it apart. It can be done without removing the harness from the stator tube, by sitting in the driver's seat with a towel draped over your lap. Some information that might help: http://tinyurl.com/yamdra6 (although I need to go back and make sure which way the pegs should be). -- Randall From tr3 at roadrunner.com Tue Jun 7 19:09:35 2011 From: tr3 at roadrunner.com (Hans de Ferrante) Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2011 18:09:35 -0700 Subject: [TR] LelandWest Classic Car Insurance In-Reply-To: <2145675940.1220953.1307409192475.JavaMail.root@vznit170076> References: <2145675940.1220953.1307409192475.JavaMail.root@vznit170076> Message-ID: > State Farm will not give me the agreed to value I want without an > appraisal, heck the appraisal could pay for 1.5 years of insurance. Hmmm, I have 2 vintage cars insured with State Farm and they let me determine the value myself and they set the premium accordingly. In fact they recommended I raise it on one of them. On Jun 6, 2011, at 6:13 PM, thenicholls at verizon.net wrote: > Does anyone on the list use LelandWest for insuring their classic > car? State Farm will not give me the agreed to value I want without > an appraisal, heck the appraisal could pay for 1.5 years of insurance. > > They seem to have the lowest quotes, a reasonable usage policy, and > for an extra charge, allow you to drive to work twice per week. > > I see no complaints about them through searching the web, but if > anyone on the list has them or any experience with them I would > appreciate it. > > Thanks, > > Craig > 1972 Triumph TR6 > Vienna, VA > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3 at roadrunner.com > > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive From thenicholls at verizon.net Tue Jun 7 19:57:29 2011 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Tue, 07 Jun 2011 20:57:29 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] LelandWest Classic Car Insurance Message-ID: <2102194529.1289945.1307498249321.JavaMail.root@vznit170132> Well, the way it turned out was what they wrote in the email was not backed up by the declarations page of the policy. I ended up going with American Collectors, got the value I wanted, the rate was only $50 more per year than State Farm was offerring for $10000 less of value. Also should mention that I work for one of the top 5 insurance companies, and it is not State Farm or American Collectors. Thanks to the list for you input. Craig 1972 Triumph TR6 Vienna, VA Jun 7, 2011 09:34:30 PM, tr3 at roadrunner.com wrote: > State Farm will not give me the agreed to value I want without an > appraisal, heck the appraisal could pay for 1.5 years of insurance. Hmmm, I have 2 vintage cars insured with State Farm and they let me determine the value myself and they set the premium accordingly. In fact they recommended I raise it on one of them. On Jun 6, 2011, at 6:13 PM, thenicholls at verizon.net wrote: > Does anyone on the list use LelandWest for insuring their classic > car? State Farm will not give me the agreed to value I want without > an appraisal, heck the appraisal could pay for 1.5 years of insurance. > > They seem to have the lowest quotes, a reasonable usage policy, and > for an extra charge, allow you to drive to work twice per week. > > I see no complaints about them through searching the web, but if > anyone on the list has them or any experience with them I would > appreciate it. > > Thanks, > > Craig > 1972 Triumph TR6 > Vienna, VA > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr3 at roadrunner.com > > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jun 7 20:13:50 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2011 19:13:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] LelandWest Classic Car Insurance In-Reply-To: References: <2145675940.1220953.1307409192475.JavaMail.root@vznit170076> Message-ID: <0d5201cc2581$b5898800$209c9800$@rr.com> > Hmmm, I have 2 vintage cars insured with State Farm and they let me > determine the value myself and they set the premium accordingly. In > fact they recommended I raise it on one of them. Don't mean to re-open an old argument, but you need to check carefully as to what that "value" actually means. I have the same arrangement with my insurance company (right down to them recommending it be higher), but it is actually "stated value" rather than "agreed value". Which means that if the car gets totaled, they get to determine its fair market value, and pay me the lesser of either the stated value or the FMV. I knew that in advance of course, but got a first-hand demonstration when my TR3A got wrecked. The FMV was actually above the stated value, so I got a check for the stated value. It actually worked out OK, since they let me keep the car; I'm not complaining. My point is just that you need to be sure which kind of policy you have. I've not heard of State Farm writing an actual "agreed value" policy before. -- Randall From thenicholls at verizon.net Tue Jun 7 20:35:17 2011 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Tue, 07 Jun 2011 21:35:17 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] LelandWest Classic Car Insurance Message-ID: <1143796211.1291674.1307500517786.JavaMail.root@vznit170132> Randall, as usual, you are correct. I don't want the list to get started, I was just shopping my options and did not see much in the search about LelandWest. Thanks, Craig Jun 7, 2011 10:33:30 PM, tr3driver at ca.rr.com wrote: > Hmmm, I have 2 vintage cars insured with State Farm and they let me > determine the value myself and they set the premium accordingly. In > fact they recommended I raise it on one of them. Don't mean to re-open an old argument, but you need to check carefully as to what that "value" actually means. I have the same arrangement with my insurance company (right down to them recommending it be higher), but it is actually "stated value" rather than "agreed value". Which means that if the car gets totaled, they get to determine its fair market value, and pay me the lesser of either the stated value or the FMV. I knew that in advance of course, but got a first-hand demonstration when my TR3A got wrecked. The FMV was actually above the stated value, so I got a check for the stated value. It actually worked out OK, since they let me keep the car; I'm not complaining. My point is just that you need to be sure which kind of policy you have. I've not heard of State Farm writing an actual "agreed value" policy before. -- Randall triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From yellowtr at adelphia.net Wed Jun 8 05:33:40 2011 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Wed, 8 Jun 2011 07:33:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] LelandWest Classic Car Insurance In-Reply-To: <2102194529.1289945.1307498249321.JavaMail.root@vznit170132> References: <2102194529.1289945.1307498249321.JavaMail.root@vznit170132> Message-ID: <201106080733.41645.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Tuesday, June 07, 2011 09:57:29 pm thenicholls at verizon.net wrote: > Well, the way it turned out was what they wrote in the email was not backed > up by the declarations page of the policy. I ended up going with American > Collectors, got the value I wanted, the rate was only $50 more per year > than State Farm was offerring for $10000 less of value. > > Also should mention that I work for one of the top 5 insurance companies, > and it is not State Farm or American Collectors. > > Thanks to the list for you input. > > Craig > 1972 Triumph TR6 > Vienna, VA Craig, I have been with American Collectors for over 30 years. I will be adding my 72 TR6 to the policy as soon as I can get them some updated photos. When I added my 63 4 a few years back all it took was a phone call followed up by an email with an array of photos. They ok'd my agreed value and I had my insurance card via email the next day. Bob From pryner at verizon.net Wed Jun 8 06:10:19 2011 From: pryner at verizon.net (Peter Ryner) Date: Wed, 08 Jun 2011 08:10:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] LelandWest Classic Car Insurance In-Reply-To: <201106080733.41645.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <2102194529.1289945.1307498249321.JavaMail.root@vznit170132> <201106080733.41645.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: I had American Collectors (sometimes through USAA), and didn't have a problem, but no claims either. Switched to Hagerty because of their better annual mileage policy. Price is about the same. Highly recommend staying with a specialty company over a general one like State Farm etc. I do use Progressive for my boat and older airstream but they won't give me agreed value on my LBCs. Pete ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob" To: Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2011 7:33 AM Subject: Re: [TR] LelandWest Classic Car Insurance > On Tuesday, June 07, 2011 09:57:29 pm thenicholls at verizon.net wrote: >> Well, the way it turned out was what they wrote in the email was not >> backed >> up by the declarations page of the policy. I ended up going with >> American >> Collectors, got the value I wanted, the rate was only $50 more per year >> than State Farm was offerring for $10000 less of value. >> >> Also should mention that I work for one of the top 5 insurance companies, >> and it is not State Farm or American Collectors. >> >> Thanks to the list for you input. >> >> Craig >> 1972 Triumph TR6 >> Vienna, VA > Craig, > > I have been with American Collectors for over 30 years. I will be adding > my 72 > TR6 to the policy as soon as I can get them some updated photos. > > When I added my 63 4 a few years back all it took was a phone call > followed up > by an email with an array of photos. They ok'd my agreed value and I had > my > insurance card via email the next day. > > Bob From agraham at execulink.com Wed Jun 8 09:33:12 2011 From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham) Date: Wed, 08 Jun 2011 11:33:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR 2/3 Fuel shut-off cork - prep? Message-ID: <4DEF9638.5080904@execulink.com> Hello List: Managed to find a cork for my fuel shut-off valve - thanks to Randall. Just wondering about the prep, if any, required for cork seals. Any kind of soaking or prep required? A bit of lube to ease initial installation? Thanks for all your help. Angelo Graham From auprichard at uprichard.net Wed Jun 8 09:45:20 2011 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Wed, 8 Jun 2011 11:45:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] back and question In-Reply-To: References: <2102194529.1289945.1307498249321.JavaMail.root@vznit170132><201106080733.41645.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <70E564CDC3354D39920A946C2B1F37C9@DCH6RFC1> It seems I was deleted after the list crashed last month - I'll not take it personally. Thanks to Randall for his help. I'd be interested in the list's thoughts on the following: my TR3 runs fine when first started, but after sitting a while when started again, it runs for a few seconds, then seems to go to 3, or even 2, cylinders. The result of this is either that it clears itself out and again runs fine, or we encounter a "stranded by the side of the road" situation. Each time this has happened, it has been a hot day and the car has been left in the sun. Thinking this was vapor lock, I re-routed the gas line and installed a heat shield, but it continues to happen. Questions: (a) could this be something OTHER than vapor lock? and (b) if it is vapor lock, what next? Coat the manifold? Andrew Uprichard From guy at genfiniti.com Wed Jun 8 14:48:28 2011 From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins) Date: Wed, 8 Jun 2011 15:48:28 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4A - Moss Oil Filter Adapter Question Message-ID: <05100D50-934D-40F0-92A6-9E4C3767DD0A@genfiniti.com> Listers, Looking for an oil filter that will work for the Moss oil filter adapter. Moss list a few of their own part numbers, but I really want to get one from Autozone. Does anyone use this adapter and have a recommendation? Cheers, Guy D. Huggins 1965 Triumph TR4A CTC 63569LO Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Wed Jun 8 19:19:38 2011 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (suhringtr36 at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 9 Jun 2011 01:19:38 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3A Head Lamp Finishing Ring Message-ID: <1714332856.3914939.1307582378788.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> A while ago a comment was posted about having difficulty getting the finishing ring to fit properly on the headlamp of a TR3A. I had responded that I too had this problem and thought it was due to the aftermarket buckets being two wide in diameter, thus not allowing the ring to sit properly. We'll, I was wrong. I took everythig apart and started to do some measurements. I found out what the real problem is, confirmed by Dave from TRF. It is with the inner and outer retaining rings. The ones they make today are being used as interchangable with many cars, but are no good for most, including the TR3A. TRF has had this issue for some time with the distributors. The correct inner retainer ring has a depth of 2 9/16" and the correct outer retaining ring has aa depth of 27/32". The replacements ones have a much smallet depth, which causes the headlamp lens to sit in too far, so when you put on the finishing ring, there is a good 1/2" gap between the lens and the ring. It rally looks bad. Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3A From thenicholls at verizon.net Wed Jun 8 20:14:56 2011 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Wed, 08 Jun 2011 21:14:56 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Cleaning Stainless Steel Message-ID: <1020858771.1331150.1307585696712.JavaMail.root@vznit170134> List, I am a bit of a clean freak. I have a Bell stock stainless steel exhaust system on my 72 TR6 installed in 2006. I would like to cleanup the visible pipes, anyone on the list have any advice on cleaning stainless steel? Anyone worked with any cleaning products? Craig 72 Triumph TR6 Vienna, VA From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Thu Jun 9 06:56:22 2011 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net) Date: Thu, 09 Jun 2011 07:56:22 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Cleaning Stainless Steel Message-ID: <1748863842.1039553.1307624182353.JavaMail.root@vznit170060> I would start with the cleaning as Dave suggests. But I would probably test which grade w/d to start with on a hidden spot. 1000 grit or even higher might do the job with less abrasiveness. Real fine grade steel wool is another option. C Jun 9, 2011 12:09:02 PM, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: In a message dated 6/8/2011 9:37:16 PM Central Daylight Time, thenicholls at verizon.net writes: I am a bit of a clean freak. I have a Bell stock stainless steel exhaust system on my 72 TR6 installed in 2006. I would like to cleanup the visible pipes, anyone on the list have any advice on cleaning stainless steel? Anyone worked with any cleaning products? I would first clean off any oil or grease with a good detergent. What is left is backed on carbon and corrosion. That I take off with #400 wet/dry sandpaper. Depending on how shiny you want you can clean up with #600 and #1000 grit w/d sandpaper after that. Dave triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From tfansher at comcast.net Thu Jun 9 08:20:14 2011 From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 9 Jun 2011 14:20:14 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Cleaning Stainless Steel In-Reply-To: <1748863842.1039553.1307624182353.JavaMail.root@vznit170060> Message-ID: <1110260806.1591095.1307629214313.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> I've had decent luck with "Blue Magic" metal polish with fine steel wool. It's great for chrome, too. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net To: triumphs at Autox.Team.Net Sent: Thursday, June 9, 2011 8:56:22 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Cleaning Stainless Steel I would start with the cleaning as Dave suggests. But I would probably test which grade w/d to start with on a hidden spot. 1000 grit or even higher might do the job with less abrasiveness. Real fine grade steel wool is another option. C -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From spitlist at cox.net Thu Jun 9 10:01:22 2011 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Thu, 9 Jun 2011 09:01:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] Cleaning Stainless Steel In-Reply-To: <1748863842.1039553.1307624182353.JavaMail.root@vznit170060> References: <1748863842.1039553.1307624182353.JavaMail.root@vznit170060> Message-ID: <9BFBE6486B824690913034E0609A1369@Vista> If it is matte finish stainless and not the really bright stuff, many people use a Scotch-Bright pad. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sent: Thursday, June 09, 2011 5:56 AM To: triumphs at Autox.Team.Net Subject: Re: [TR] Cleaning Stainless Steel I would start with the cleaning as Dave suggests. But I would probably test which grade w/d to start with on a hidden spot. 1000 grit or even higher might do the job with less abrasiveness. Real fine grade steel wool is another option. C Jun 9, 2011 12:09:02 PM, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: In a message dated 6/8/2011 9:37:16 PM Central Daylight Time, thenicholls at verizon.net writes: I am a bit of a clean freak. I have a Bell stock stainless steel exhaust system on my 72 TR6 installed in 2006. I would like to cleanup the visible pipes, anyone on the list have any advice on cleaning stainless steel? Anyone worked with any cleaning products? I would first clean off any oil or grease with a good detergent. What is left is backed on carbon and corrosion. That I take off with #400 wet/dry sandpaper. Depending on how shiny you want you can clean up with #600 and #1000 grit w/d sandpaper after that. Dave triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From member at linkedin.com Thu Jun 9 14:46:33 2011 From: member at linkedin.com (Steve Thornton via LinkedIn) Date: Thu, 9 Jun 2011 20:46:33 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Invitation to connect on LinkedIn Message-ID: <1555115281.2625180.1307652393302.JavaMail.app@ela4-bed77.prod> LinkedIn ------------ Steve Thornton requested to add you as a connection on LinkedIn: ------------------------------------------ Ernest, I'd like to add you to my professional network on LinkedIn. - Steve Accept invitation from Steve Thornton http://www.linkedin.com/e/5we255-goq6h07n-6p/K2heipm-5MVQMKD4KVtHSCkbJML9PCLwZXGB/blk/I139363072_11/1BpC5vrmRLoRZcjkkZt5YCpnlOt3RApnhMpmdzgmhxrSNBszYNclYOdP0PdzcVcP59bSFRc5hllAhSbPkNczsQdjoScjcLrCBxbOYWrSlI/EML_comm_afe/ View invitation from Steve Thornton http://www.linkedin.com/e/5we255-goq6h07n-6p/K2heipm-5MVQMKD4KVtHSCkbJML9PCLwZXGB/blk/I139363072_11/34NnP8Tc3cScPAPckALqnpPbOYWrSlI/svi/ -- (c) 2011, LinkedIn Corporation -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cliff_hansen at earthlink.net Thu Jun 9 15:44:41 2011 From: cliff_hansen at earthlink.net (Cliff Hansen) Date: Thu, 9 Jun 2011 14:44:41 -0700 Subject: [TR] Sealing fender doglegs Message-ID: <2E5067F30B9F49C3AD6E461509386BE5@Shemp> The doglegs on the front fenders have gaps at the ends (vertical part), perhaps 1/8? at most. The body man has been unable (or unwilling) to reshape the arc of the dogleg to exactly match the curve of the sill, and, I rather doubt that an exact match is important. I?d like to close the gap to prevent spray from the wheels from making its way in between the fender and sill, and I?d appreciate advice regarding what we could use to prevent water from entering the space between the fender dogleg and the sill. Body guy suggested body caulk, but I?ve seen his caulking and think it will be ugly. What about something like dum-dum, that can be smoothed after the panel is securely mounted? I plan to run a long section of hose from the scuttle drains through the inner fender and exit through the baffle plates, so that the scuttle won?t drain into the space between the inner and outer fenders. Thanks in advance, Cliff 66 TR4A -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com Thu Jun 9 16:08:09 2011 From: sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com (Steve Thornton) Date: Thu, 9 Jun 2011 17:08:09 -0500 Subject: [TR] Request to join Linked Message-ID: I apologize for the list blast asking you to join Linked. Apparently, I pressed a wrong key which sent the request to my entire address book, which included this List. Steven O. Thornton Attorney at Law 1011 Lehman Avenue Suite 102 Bowling Green, KY 42103 270-781-6630 Sent from my iPhone From fishplate at charter.net Thu Jun 9 17:23:47 2011 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Thu, 09 Jun 2011 19:23:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] LelandWest Classic Car Insurance In-Reply-To: References: <2102194529.1289945.1307498249321.JavaMail.root@vznit170132> <201106080733.41645.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <4DF15603.8000806@charter.net> On 6/8/2011 8:10 AM, Peter Ryner wrote: > Switched to Hagerty because of their better annual mileage policy. Just exactly what is their annual mileage policy? I can't find it, and I don't want to raise the issue with them right off. I probably don't exceed it, but you never know... Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. From fishplate at charter.net Thu Jun 9 17:25:53 2011 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Thu, 09 Jun 2011 19:25:53 -0400 Subject: [TR] back and question In-Reply-To: <70E564CDC3354D39920A946C2B1F37C9@DCH6RFC1> References: <2102194529.1289945.1307498249321.JavaMail.root@vznit170132><201106080733.41645.yellowtr@adelphia.net> <70E564CDC3354D39920A946C2B1F37C9@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: <4DF15681.7080609@charter.net> On 6/8/2011 11:45 AM, Andrew Uprichard wrote: > Thinking this was vapor lock, I re-routed the gas line and installed a heat > shield, but it continues to happen. I'm voting vapor lock in the carburetters. Heat shield or no, it's still hot under the hood. Not sure how to test, except with ice somehow... Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. From thenicholls at verizon.net Thu Jun 9 17:50:21 2011 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Thu, 09 Jun 2011 18:50:21 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] LelandWest Classic Car Insurance Message-ID: <2112127698.1079551.1307663421755.JavaMail.root@vznit170060> Went with American Collectors Insurance, dealing with the Pacific coast is not working for someone on EST.........Craig Jun 9, 2011 07:41:54 PM, fishplate at charter.net wrote: On 6/8/2011 8:10 AM, Peter Ryner wrote: > Switched to Hagerty because of their better annual mileage policy. Just exactly what is their annual mileage policy? I can't find it, and I don't want to raise the issue with them right off. I probably don't exceed it, but you never know... Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Thu Jun 9 18:21:02 2011 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Thu, 9 Jun 2011 20:21:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] back and question In-Reply-To: <4DF15681.7080609@charter.net> References: <2102194529.1289945.1307498249321.JavaMail.root@vznit170132> <201106080733.41645.yellowtr@adelphia.net> <70E564CDC3354D39920A946C2B1F37C9@DCH6RFC1> <4DF15681.7080609@charter.net> Message-ID: I'm all about condensor - and maybe coil.... On Thu, Jun 9, 2011 at 7:25 PM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote: > On 6/8/2011 11:45 AM, Andrew Uprichard wrote: >> >> Thinking this was vapor lock, I re-routed the gas line and installed a >> heat >> shield, but it continues to happen. > > I'm voting vapor lock in the carburetters. ?Heat shield or no, it's still > hot under the hood. ?Not sure how to test, except with ice somehow... > > Jeff Scarbrough > Corrosion Acres, Ga. > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ccsimonsen at gmail.com > > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive > From mmarr at notwires.com Thu Jun 9 19:39:52 2011 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Thu, 9 Jun 2011 20:39:52 -0500 Subject: [TR] Cleaning Stainless Steel References: <1748863842.1039553.1307624182353.JavaMail.root@vznit170060> <9BFBE6486B824690913034E0609A1369@Vista><4DF131F7.4050808@uga.edu> <4DF1555C.4000100@charter.net> Message-ID: > > You might look for a product called Brasso or Bar Keeper's Friend. > "Shine your buttons with Brasso, Brasso, tuppence a tin. Buy it or nick it from Woolworth's, But I don't think they have any in." A couple of you, especially the English ones, will remember this little ditty, I am sure. Mike (showing his age...) From trglory at verizon.net Thu Jun 9 19:56:33 2011 From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito) Date: Thu, 09 Jun 2011 21:56:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] Request to join Linked In-Reply-To: <1718a.112bdd9.3b22cc6a@cs.com> References: <1718a.112bdd9.3b22cc6a@cs.com> Message-ID: <00d801cc2711$a04474f0$e0cd5ed0$@net> As Groucho Marx used to say "I would never join any club that would have me as a member". Joe Laurito __________________ From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave1massey at cs.com Sent: Thursday, June 09, 2011 9:25 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Request to join Linked In a message dated 6/9/2011 5:27:49 PM Central Daylight Time, sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com writes: I apologize for the list blast asking you to join Linked. Apparently, I pressed a wrong key which sent the request to my entire address book, which included this List. So... you DON''T want us as friends? ;-) Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Jun 10 05:55:49 2011 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2011 07:55:49 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] BAck again - and with a question Message-ID: <2274c.57f5e1a3.3b236045@cs.com> In a message dated 6/10/2011 1:09:10 AM Central Daylight Time, auprichard at uprichard.net writes: > Thinking this was vapor lock, I re-routed the gas line and fitted a heat > shield. > > > > Today was 97 degrees and I tested my hypothesis. Drove until it was hot > and then parked it in front of the house. After 30 minutes, started it up > and it was a repeat performance. Ran rough and then died. Checked the plugs > ? they were all very sooty. Would you expect this from vapor lock? And > where do you go from here ? coat the exhaust manifold? > > > > I thought vapor lock was starvation due to the fact that the fuel pump can't pump vapor. You may have issues with the float valves in the carb. Does it make any difference if the tank is full vs. near empty? Do you have the fuel shutoff valve? If so what happens if you close it? Dave -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jun 10 08:25:24 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2011 07:25:24 -0700 Subject: [TR] BAck again - and with a question In-Reply-To: <2274c.57f5e1a3.3b236045@cs.com> References: <2274c.57f5e1a3.3b236045@cs.com> Message-ID: <092d01cc277a$3d28f710$0301a8c0@randall> > I thought vapor lock was starvation due to the fact that the > fuel pump can't pump vapor. Me too. But lots of folks confuse percolation (fuel boiling in the carbs) with vapor lock, and it has become a common problem due to the witch's brew they sell for gasoline these days. And even just high underhood temperatures can cause mixture problems, especially if your mixture is already on the rich side. Tell us more about the heat shield. Is it between the carbs & exhaust? Did you set the mixture on a hot day? -- Randall From tgeiger at geigergarage.com Fri Jun 10 09:22:14 2011 From: tgeiger at geigergarage.com (Terry Geiger) Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2011 10:22:14 -0500 Subject: [TR] Fuel percolation Message-ID: <002101cc2782$2ebcab10$8c360130$@geigergarage.com> I've seen percolation on several cars over the last year. I agree with Randall, I think it is a result of the fuel they are selling now; the addition of the ethanol lowers the boiling point of the fuel. I've seen fuel literally boiling in the jets of an SU H6 equipped TR4 recently. This tends to happen after the car sits for about 15 to 20 minutes after shutdown and the heat has enough time to "soak" the carb bowls and jets. The TR4 in question did have a heat shield and we had rerouted the fuel line away from heat sources. We were also running a low pressure electric fuel pump in the boot so vapor lock in the pump wasn't the issue. We also had a TD (SU H4, same design as the H6 used in TR3/TR4) that was doing this recently (which has a heat shield). We insulated the fuel bowls and the bottom of the jets which did help the situation but did not entirely cure it. We haven't seen the problem on MGBs and big Healeys, but they have that nice big heat shield with the cancer causing asbestos insulation to help keep the carbs more insulated from the heat. Regarding the heat shield, is there any insulation or is it a bare metal shield? I can see where an insulated heat shield would be work better, the bare shield would tend to radiate the heat once it gets hot. If you could get your hands on some flat brake lining material and have it riveted or bonded to the heat shield that might help. Jet coating the exhaust manifold I think would help. Also, fiberglass wrap is used on exhaust components by the racers to keep heat down under the bonnet. Cars with fuel injection wouldn't have a problem, the fuel is under pressure which raises the boiling point. Also, unburned fuel is returned to the tank which cools the fuel. My 1982 Porsche 911 has the Bosch CIS mechanical injection and we haven't seen any issues with the new fuel. Terry Geiger www.GeigerGarage.com -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Friday, June 10, 2011 9:25 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] BAck again - and with a question > I thought vapor lock was starvation due to the fact that the fuel pump > can't pump vapor. Me too. But lots of folks confuse percolation (fuel boiling in the carbs) with vapor lock, and it has become a common problem due to the witch's brew they sell for gasoline these days. And even just high underhood temperatures can cause mixture problems, especially if your mixture is already on the rich side. Tell us more about the heat shield. Is it between the carbs & exhaust? Did you set the mixture on a hot day? -- Randall From guy at genfiniti.com Fri Jun 10 09:38:10 2011 From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins) Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2011 10:38:10 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4A - Gauge Lamp Oddities Message-ID: <9FA31A51-35D8-4CEF-803C-12216E11C088@genfiniti.com> All, First, a quick update that I have successfully completed the installation of the Advance Auto Wire system into the car! It was not difficult, so much as time consuming, and the quality looks great. Now that its installed, I am testing and troubleshooting and have come across an issue with the gauge lamps. Like with the original wiring harness, this kit supplies power to the lamps through the dimmer control switch on the dash. A red wire from the fuse box supplies power, which is then transferred into the red/white chain of lamps as you turn the switch. My issue is that I turn the switch and the lamps don't light. Odd. So I measure the voltage on the red/white chain and I have 12 volts! So, the power is there, but no light. I suspect they are not grounding, but I'm not sure how to ground. From all appearances, the physical tension of the socket in the gauge's hole should cause them to ground on the gauge body. Right? Another oddity.. if I insert the high beam indicator lamp into its hole on the speedo's body, the headlamps come on when I turn the interior lamps on! This makes it sound as if the voltage is successfully going to the speedo gauge lamp, through the speedo body, and into the HB indicator lamp, eventually making its way to the headlamp relay. Once again, this seems like a ground issue. Any suggestions before I start making up my own solutions?? From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jun 10 10:11:58 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2011 09:11:58 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4A - Gauge Lamp Oddities In-Reply-To: <9FA31A51-35D8-4CEF-803C-12216E11C088@genfiniti.com> References: <9FA31A51-35D8-4CEF-803C-12216E11C088@genfiniti.com> Message-ID: <032201cc2789$212027a0$636076e0$@rr.com> Well, are the gauge bodies (including the speedo) grounded? I'm not sure of the arrangement on a 4A, but on the earlier TRs there should be a ground harness that runs over to the tach & speedo. The small gauges did not originally have separate grounds, but I advocate adding one for the fuel gauge (which on the earlier cars is the only one that needs a ground). The grounding through the mounting is just not very secure. -- Randall From kinderlehrer at comcast.net Fri Jun 10 10:56:50 2011 From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (kinderlehrer at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2011 16:56:50 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Fuel percolation In-Reply-To: <002101cc2782$2ebcab10$8c360130$@geigergarage.com> Message-ID: <1384657132.1499466.1307725010281.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> OK, at the risk of being vaporized myself by the return flames, I'll throw out a thought I just had (it happens) for consideration of the group .... What would happen if under those conditions, one were to spray the fuel lines, possibly the float bowls, with a product like Dust Off? It's basically compressed air, but?gets very cold when used.? I'm guessing it's a bad idea because of the temperature differentials and?what it might do to the metal parts subjected to such extremes, but I'm just guessing.? Bob? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Terry Geiger" To: "Randall" , triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, June 10, 2011 8:22:14 AM Subject: [TR] Fuel percolation I've seen percolation on several cars over the last year. ?I agree with Randall, I think it is a result of the fuel they are selling now; the addition of the ethanol lowers the boiling point of the fuel. ?I've seen fuel literally boiling in the jets of an SU H6 equipped TR4 recently. ?This tends to happen after the car sits for about 15 to 20 minutes after shutdown and the heat has enough time to "soak" the carb bowls and jets. ?The TR4 in question did have a heat shield and we had rerouted the fuel line away from heat sources. ?We were also running a low pressure electric fuel pump in the........ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From david.brister at wanadoo.fr Fri Jun 10 11:11:11 2011 From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister) Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2011 19:11:11 +0200 Subject: [TR] TR4A - Gauge Lamp Oddities In-Reply-To: <032201cc2789$212027a0$636076e0$@rr.com> References: <9FA31A51-35D8-4CEF-803C-12216E11C088@genfiniti.com> <032201cc2789$212027a0$636076e0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <8D9548C5507947979EEAAEF12304F5B3@dbristerPC> My TR4A has a .black earthing wire running round the back of all the gauges. Circular terminals and you trap them under the knurled nuts which fix the gauge locating brackets. Suspect without this the grounding would be very shaky. As far as I know my car is/was original. David Brister 1967 TR4A 77785 O From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jun 10 11:26:53 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2011 10:26:53 -0700 Subject: [TR] Fuel percolation In-Reply-To: <80.C2.08129.ADD32FD4@cdptpa-mxlb.mail.rr.com> References: <80.C2.08129.ADD32FD4@cdptpa-mxlb.mail.rr.com> Message-ID: <033601cc2793$98098be0$c81ca3a0$@rr.com> > I buy from stations that sell pure petroleum. A little more cost, no > worries. Unfortunately not an option in some parts of the US. That's interesting about the Elise owner's manual. I was under the impression it was illegal to sell a new car here that could not handle E10. Plus it's a Toyota motor (assuming you are talking about a US-spec Elise). My buddy has an Elise, and it seems to run fine on E10. (It's got a dead battery at the moment, so he's driving his Z6 instead. But I don't think the dead battery was caused by E10 ) -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jun 10 11:31:39 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2011 10:31:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] Fuel percolation In-Reply-To: <002101cc2782$2ebcab10$8c360130$@geigergarage.com> References: <002101cc2782$2ebcab10$8c360130$@geigergarage.com> Message-ID: <034301cc2794$427f64f0$c77e2ed0$@rr.com> > If you could > get your hands on some flat brake lining material and have it riveted > or bonded to the heat shield that might help. Or even some of the felt and foil insulation sold for water heaters should do, if you put it on the carb side of the metal shield. A second layer of metal, spaced 1/4" - 1/2" away from the first can also make a big difference. My plan is to rig the radiator fan so it runs until the underhood temperature drops. But it helps noticeably to just run it for a minute or so before shutting the engine down. -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jun 10 11:45:22 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2011 10:45:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] Fuel percolation In-Reply-To: <1384657132.1499466.1307725010281.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <002101cc2782$2ebcab10$8c360130$@geigergarage.com> <1384657132.1499466.1307725010281.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <034401cc2796$2cb09750$8611c5f0$@rr.com> > What would happen if under those conditions, one were to spray the fuel > lines, possibly the float bowls, with a product like Dust Off? It's > basically compressed air, but gets very cold when used. Might work, if you could get the liquid from the can onto the carb surface. But if you let it boil inside the can as it usually does, I think it will take an awful lot of it to cool the float bowls by much. How about a 12v Peltier cooler instead? Probably easier to just convert to fuel injection and be done with it ;) -- Randall From kinderlehrer at comcast.net Fri Jun 10 16:30:32 2011 From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (kinderlehrer at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2011 22:30:32 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Fuel percolation In-Reply-To: <1053891206.1515824.1307744805538.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1279632647.1515965.1307745032370.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Not sure I follow you here, which liquid? The Dust Off is a gas, it sprays out , with or without a little tube, like carb cleaner. Or do you m ean the gas inside the float bowl? ? ----- Original Message ----- > What would happen if under those conditions, one were to spray the fuel > lines, possibly the float bowls, with a product like Dust Off? It's > basically compressed air, but gets very cold when used. Might work, if you could get the liquid from the can onto the carb surface. ?But if you let it boil inside the can as it usually does, I think it will take an awful lot of it to cool the float bowls by much. How about a 12v Peltier cooler instead? Probably easier to just convert to fuel injection and be done with it ;) -- Randall -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fishplate at charter.net Fri Jun 10 18:01:48 2011 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2011 20:01:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fuel percolation In-Reply-To: <002101cc2782$2ebcab10$8c360130$@geigergarage.com> References: <002101cc2782$2ebcab10$8c360130$@geigergarage.com> Message-ID: <4DF2B06C.30401@charter.net> On 6/10/2011 11:22 AM, Terry Geiger wrote: > Me too. But lots of folks confuse percolation (fuel boiling in the carbs) > with vapor lock, and it has become a common problem due to the witch's brew > they sell for gasoline these days. > http://pure-gas.org/ Has this been mentioned here before? Jeff Scarbrough 32 miles from Rayle, Ga. From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jun 10 18:34:33 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2011 17:34:33 -0700 Subject: [TR] Fuel percolation In-Reply-To: <1279632647.1515965.1307745032370.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <1053891206.1515824.1307744805538.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <1279632647.1515965.1307745032370.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <0a2901cc27cf$560651b0$0301a8c0@randall> > Not sure I follow you here, which liquid? > The Dust Off is a gas, it sprays out, with or without a little tube, Dust-Off is actually 1,1 difluoroethane, also known as R-152a (a refrigerant). Inside the can it is (mostly) a liquid under pressure. When you pull the trigger, normally you get vaporized R-152a out of the nozzle, and the liquid inside the can literally boils to supply more vapor. It's mostly the boiling refrigerant that gets cold (this is the exact same process using in your air conditioner). It's an old electronics troubleshooting trick to invert the can, so liquid comes out the nozzle. Whatever you spray the liquid on will get very cold, very quick, as the liquid boils away (at atmospheric pressure, it boils at something like -25C). The thermal shock will frequently make a marginal component reveal itself (although it can sometimes damage components that were fine before the treatment). So that is the liquid I was talking about. -- Randall From spook01 at comcast.net Fri Jun 10 19:19:53 2011 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2011 20:19:53 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Fuel_percolation?= Message-ID: <20110611011951.7044C187675@autox.team.net> That's a site I think we covered. Apparently, not everyone knows about it though. Thanks for re sending it. R Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Jeff Scarbrough" To: "Triumphs" Subject: [TR] Fuel percolation Date: Fri, Jun 10, 2011 19:01 On 6/10/2011 11:22 AM, Terry Geiger wrote: > Me too. But lots of folks confuse percolation (fuel boiling in the carbs) > with vapor lock, and it has become a common problem due to the witch's brew > they sell for gasoline these days. > http://pure-gas.org/ Has this been mentioned here before? Jeff Scarbrough 32 miles from Rayle, Ga. triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jun 10 19:49:11 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2011 18:49:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] Fuel percolation In-Reply-To: <20110611011951.7044C187675@autox.team.net> References: <20110611011951.7044C187675@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <0a4201cc27d9$c331f780$0301a8c0@randall> > Apparently, not everyone > knows about it though. And some of us are not willing to drive 2+ hours each way just to fill the tank. -- Randall From diggle at clear.net.nz Fri Jun 10 21:00:26 2011 From: diggle at clear.net.nz (Jim Vassiliadis) Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2011 15:00:26 +1200 Subject: [TR] Oil relief valve springs. Message-ID: <3914034A63AE489B96F69506E9A16115@athlon> I intend on removing the engine and tranny to detail the engine bay. At the same time I would like to replace the oil filter pressure relief valve springs and also the bottom engine bearings (preventative maintenance). My engine was recond about 20,000 miles ago. The oil pump was replaced as were the bearings. Does anyone sell the pressure relief valve springs? Jim and the black TR4 From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jun 10 23:55:35 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2011 22:55:35 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 door panel question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000001cc27fc$2f634ae0$0301a8c0@randall> > Subject: [TR] TR3 door panel question Is this a TR3 or TR3A? They're different ... -- Randall From fishplate at charter.net Sat Jun 11 08:14:04 2011 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2011 10:14:04 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fuel percolation In-Reply-To: <0a4201cc27d9$c331f780$0301a8c0@randall> References: <20110611011951.7044C187675@autox.team.net> <0a4201cc27d9$c331f780$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <4DF3782C.8000902@charter.net> On 6/10/2011 9:49 PM, Randall wrote: > And some of us are not willing to drive 2+ hours each way just to fill the > tank. > Well, it's a good excuse to drive your car somewhere, and if other stations find out you're willing to drive that far to pay a premium for Etoh-free fuel, they may consider offering it closer to you. Tongue partially in cheek... Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Jun 11 09:58:38 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2011 08:58:38 -0700 Subject: [TR] Fuel percolation In-Reply-To: <4DF3782C.8000902@charter.net> References: <20110611011951.7044C187675@autox.team.net><0a4201cc27d9$c331f780$0301a8c0@randall> <4DF3782C.8000902@charter.net> Message-ID: <001001cc2850$6de76e00$0301a8c0@randall> > they may consider offering it closer to you. Somehow, I don't believe they are going to violate state law, just in case I might buy some gas from them. For that matter, I could buy non-oxygenated gasoline practically next door, at the airport. But it's illegal for me to put it in a car driven on the street (or for them to sell it to me, knowing that is what I plan to do). ISTR each violation merits a $25,000 fine, which is a bit more than I'm willing to pay, just to avoid a little difficulty starting the engine hot. -- Randall From ambritts at bellsouth.net Sat Jun 11 09:55:31 2011 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2011 11:55:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fuel percolation-Opposite effect In-Reply-To: <002101cc2782$2ebcab10$8c360130$@geigergarage.com> References: <002101cc2782$2ebcab10$8c360130$@geigergarage.com> Message-ID: Here's a flip side issue with my TR3A that no one has been able to come up with an answer for except a Mini owner who said he had a similar problem due to the witches blend. My 59 TR3A is running su's (earlier model su's) with a stainless heat shield between the exhaust manifold and the carbs. This is the standard shield available to all. Quite honestly, I installed the shield because it makes me nuts to have these carbs directly over a hot manifold. That's another story that has to do with my TR6. Anyway, what happens with my car is there is an ENORMOUS build up of of water droplets that form all over the intake manifold and carb bodies. (condensation) At one point it was so severe that it flooded out the car. When people see this, they cannot believe it. The carbs and intake manifold are so cold they feel like they were packed in ice. I actually thought about taking off the heat shield to help warm up the situation. Debating on which is better. But still no one has ever seen this or can offer an answer or suggestion. Alex Manzo 59TR3A 72 TR6 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Terry Geiger" To: "'Randall'" ; Sent: Friday, June 10, 2011 11:22 AM Subject: [TR] Fuel percolation > I've seen percolation on several cars over the last year. I agree with > Randall, I think it is a result of the fuel they are selling now; the > addition of the ethanol lowers the boiling point of the fuel. I've seen > fuel literally boiling in the jets of an SU H6 equipped TR4 recently. > This > tends to happen after the car sits for about 15 to 20 minutes after > shutdown > and the heat has enough time to "soak" the carb bowls and jets. The TR4 > in > question did have a heat shield and we had rerouted the fuel line away > from > heat sources. We were also running a low pressure electric fuel pump in > the > boot so vapor lock in the pump wasn't the issue. We also had a TD (SU H4, > same design as the H6 used in TR3/TR4) that was doing this recently (which > has a heat shield). We insulated the fuel bowls and the bottom of the > jets > which did help the situation but did not entirely cure it. > > We haven't seen the problem on MGBs and big Healeys, but they have that > nice > big heat shield with the cancer causing asbestos insulation to help keep > the > carbs more insulated from the heat. > > Regarding the heat shield, is there any insulation or is it a bare metal > shield? I can see where an insulated heat shield would be work better, > the > bare shield would tend to radiate the heat once it gets hot. If you could > get your hands on some flat brake lining material and have it riveted or > bonded to the heat shield that might help. Jet coating the exhaust > manifold > I think would help. Also, fiberglass wrap is used on exhaust components > by > the racers to keep heat down under the bonnet. > > Cars with fuel injection wouldn't have a problem, the fuel is under > pressure > which raises the boiling point. Also, unburned fuel is returned to the > tank > which cools the fuel. My 1982 Porsche 911 has the Bosch CIS mechanical > injection and we haven't seen any issues with the new fuel. > > Terry Geiger > www.GeigerGarage.com > > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall > Sent: Friday, June 10, 2011 9:25 AM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] BAck again - and with a question > >> I thought vapor lock was starvation due to the fact that the fuel pump >> can't pump vapor. > > Me too. But lots of folks confuse percolation (fuel boiling in the carbs) > with vapor lock, and it has become a common problem due to the witch's > brew > they sell for gasoline these days. > > And even just high underhood temperatures can cause mixture problems, > especially if your mixture is already on the rich side. > > Tell us more about the heat shield. Is it between the carbs & exhaust? > Did > you set the mixture on a hot day? > > -- Randall > From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Jun 11 11:35:45 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2011 10:35:45 -0700 Subject: [TR] Junk Email to list In-Reply-To: <181B16E009EB44C5A9AA0C36FA2E0C29@Vista> References: <181B16E009EB44C5A9AA0C36FA2E0C29@Vista> Message-ID: <002f01cc285d$ff398110$0301a8c0@randall> Joe Curry wrote: > This morning I had 42 Spam emails in my inbox all addressed > to the Triumph and Spitfire lists as well as at least one > individual. I am wondering if others have received these as > well or just me and the others whose individual address were > on the "TO" line. I got a bunch of them too, but they were addressed to me. The header shows they came directly through Yahoo! mail, and not through the Team.Net server. Didn't have the [TR} or [shop-talk] tags in the subject line either. Curiously enough, they don't seem to have come from the same original machine either. Either the header is partially faked, or it was some sort of "time bomb" virus on a bunch of machines. -- Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Jun 11 11:52:15 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2011 10:52:15 -0700 Subject: [TR] Fuel percolation-Opposite effect In-Reply-To: References: <002101cc2782$2ebcab10$8c360130$@geigergarage.com> Message-ID: <003001cc2860$4d51f510$0301a8c0@randall> > Anyway, what happens with my car is there is an ENORMOUS > build up of of > water droplets that form all over the intake manifold and > carb bodies. Let me guess, you live where the relative humidity is high. There are two things that cause the carbs and intake manifold to get cold under cruise conditions. One is the liquid fuel evaporating (heat of vaporization, same as the Dust-Off we discussed earlier). The other is the intake air expanding when it reaches the intake manifold vacuum. According to the ideal gas law (aka Boyle's law although not really), when a gas expands, it absorbs heat (becomes cold). This is the reverse effect to compressed air getting hot. Generally the water on the outside is harmless and can be ignored. But when the circumstances are just right, the condensation inside the carb can freeze and form carburetor icing. The pilots in the audience will know all about that, as it's a dangerous problem for small aircraft. The cold can also cause fuel and/or water to condense inside the intake manifold, which can enter the cylinders (and cause stumbling) when you suddenly open the throttle. Heralds I believe actually had a drain in the intake manifold to prevent this. The cure is to introduce some carburetor heat. Usually the original setup with the intake manifold bolted to the exhaust manifold in two places is enough to prevent problems. But if that doesn't work for you (or you've installed tubular headers without the attachment point for the intake manifold), you may need to route heated air to the intake. Something like the thermostatic heat stove used on Stags (and most cars of the 70s) would work well, IMO. Or you could have an operator control (as aircraft normally do) so you can apply heat only when it's needed. The heated air reduces maximum power ... -- Randall From tr6parts at charter.net Sat Jun 11 12:32:08 2011 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore) Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2011 14:32:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] [Spits] Junk Email to list References: <181B16E009EB44C5A9AA0C36FA2E0C29@Vista> Message-ID: None here; so far. Al ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Curry" To: ; Sent: Saturday, June 11, 2011 11:10 AM Subject: [Spits] Junk Email to list > This morning I had 42 Spam emails in my inbox all addressed to the Triumph > and Spitfire lists as well as at least one individual. I am wondering if > others have received these as well or just me and the others whose > individual address were on the "TO" line. > > > > Joe > _______________________________________________ From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sat Jun 11 12:51:48 2011 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2011 14:51:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] Junk Email to list In-Reply-To: <181B16E009EB44C5A9AA0C36FA2E0C29@Vista> References: <181B16E009EB44C5A9AA0C36FA2E0C29@Vista> Message-ID: <201106111451.49179.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Saturday, June 11, 2011 11:10:17 am Joe Curry wrote: > This morning I had 42 Spam emails in my inbox all addressed to the Triumph > and Spitfire lists as well as at least one individual. I am wondering if > others have received these as well or just me and the others whose > individual address were on the "TO" line. > > > > Joe Joe, Same here. Bob From ambritts at bellsouth.net Sat Jun 11 13:05:38 2011 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2011 15:05:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fuel percolation-Opposite effect In-Reply-To: <003001cc2860$4d51f510$0301a8c0@randall> References: <002101cc2782$2ebcab10$8c360130$@geigergarage.com> <003001cc2860$4d51f510$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <3B303314206B44909388B47C8F83A38E@AlexPC> Yes, right again. I live in Florida. And it all makes sense explained that way. (Randall's Law) :o). I like the idea of introducing heat. No headers, but again the heat shield. At least now I know it's not me! Thanks Randall. Alex ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: Sent: Saturday, June 11, 2011 1:52 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Fuel percolation-Opposite effect >> Anyway, what happens with my car is there is an ENORMOUS >> build up of of >> water droplets that form all over the intake manifold and >> carb bodies. > > Let me guess, you live where the relative humidity is high. > > There are two things that cause the carbs and intake manifold to get cold > under cruise conditions. One is the liquid fuel evaporating (heat of > vaporization, same as the Dust-Off we discussed earlier). The other is > the > intake air expanding when it reaches the intake manifold vacuum. > According > to the ideal gas law (aka Boyle's law although not really), when a gas > expands, it absorbs heat (becomes cold). This is the reverse effect to > compressed air getting hot. > > Generally the water on the outside is harmless and can be ignored. But > when > the circumstances are just right, the condensation inside the carb can > freeze and form carburetor icing. The pilots in the audience will know > all > about that, as it's a dangerous problem for small aircraft. > The cold can also cause fuel and/or water to condense inside the intake > manifold, which can enter the cylinders (and cause stumbling) when you > suddenly open the throttle. Heralds I believe actually had a drain in the > intake manifold to prevent this. > > The cure is to introduce some carburetor heat. Usually the original setup > with the intake manifold bolted to the exhaust manifold in two places is > enough to prevent problems. But if that doesn't work for you (or you've > installed tubular headers without the attachment point for the intake > manifold), you may need to route heated air to the intake. Something like > the thermostatic heat stove used on Stags (and most cars of the 70s) would > work well, IMO. Or you could have an operator control (as aircraft > normally > do) so you can apply heat only when it's needed. The heated air reduces > maximum power ... > > -- Randall > > From tr6.guy at verizon.net Sat Jun 11 13:23:16 2011 From: tr6.guy at verizon.net (Gary Klein) Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2011 15:23:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] Junk Email to list In-Reply-To: <002f01cc285d$ff398110$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: I've received no spam, HOWEVER, I was subscribed to the Digest and now the server is sending me individual posts. Gary '80 TR8 w/ A/C '75 TR6 Severn, MD Digest or, it used to be. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Saturday, June 11, 2011 1:36 PM Cc: Triumphs; Shop-Talk Subject: Re: [TR] Junk Email to list Joe Curry wrote: > This morning I had 42 Spam emails in my inbox all addressed > to the Triumph and Spitfire lists as well as at least one > individual. I am wondering if others have received these as > well or just me and the others whose individual address were > on the "TO" line. I got a bunch of them too, but they were addressed to me. The header shows they came directly through Yahoo! mail, and not through the Team.Net server. Didn't have the [TR} or [shop-talk] tags in the subject line either. Curiously enough, they don't seem to have come from the same original machine either. Either the header is partially faked, or it was some sort of "time bomb" virus on a bunch of machines. -- Randall triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr6.guy at verizon.net Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From m.d.mackay at sympatico.ca Sat Jun 11 14:17:49 2011 From: m.d.mackay at sympatico.ca (Mo and Dave MacKay) Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2011 16:17:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] Junk Email to list In-Reply-To: References: <002f01cc285d$ff398110$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: My experience is similar to Gary's, in that I've not had any spam, but am now receiving individual posts even though I'm subscribed to the digest. I haven't received a digest since May 25. Was the list unavailable? Dave MacKay 1960 TR3A s/n 68639L(O) near Toronto, Canada -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary Klein Sent: June 11, 2011 3:23 PM To: 'Randall' Cc: 'Triumphs'; 'Shop-Talk' Subject: Re: [TR] Junk Email to list I've received no spam, HOWEVER, I was subscribed to the Digest and now the server is sending me individual posts. Gary '80 TR8 w/ A/C '75 TR6 Severn, MD Digest or, it used to be. From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sat Jun 11 14:52:58 2011 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2011 16:52:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] BAck again - and with a question In-Reply-To: <2AA42553272640C8A6591257A5E0545E@DCH6RFC1> References: <2AA42553272640C8A6591257A5E0545E@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: <201106111652.59031.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Andrew, Not sure if this is your problem, but I was working on my 72 TR6 yesterday trying to get the engine running smooth after a rebuild. Engine ran fine in the garage, but when I tried to take it around the block it stumbled like a bucking horse. I replaced plugs, wires, condenser, dist cap, double checked the points, checked fuel flow, redid timing. Nothing helped one bit. As I was typing a query to the 6Pack forum, I noticed I didn't change the rotor. Well that was the problem. Darn thing looked fine to me but a new rotor fixed the problem. Bob From maya2blue at juno.com Sat Jun 11 14:57:23 2011 From: maya2blue at juno.com (Harve B Thorn) Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2011 15:57:23 -0500 Subject: [TR] Junk Email to list Message-ID: <20110611.155723.192.3.maya2blue@juno.com> same here - I was subscribed to digest but am now getting individual msgs. harve thorn maya2blue Harve NOTICE: It is okay to print this email. Paper is a plentiful, biodegradable, renewable, recyclable, sustainable product made from trees that provide jobs and income for millions of people. From mark at bradakis.com Sat Jun 11 15:49:29 2011 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2011 15:49:29 -0600 Subject: [TR] Junk Email to list In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4DF3E2E9.40602@bradakis.com> Gary Klein wrote: > I've received no spam, HOWEVER, I was subscribed to the Digest and now the > server is sending me individual posts. > Yes, the digest mode for the triumphs list is broken. You don't want to know how many spam messages *I* had to deal with today! mjb. From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Jun 11 15:50:44 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2011 14:50:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A wire harness (rear) question In-Reply-To: <65380344BD9F4BACBA7F919FCA181115@valued9cfc0b6f> References: <65380344BD9F4BACBA7F919FCA181115@valued9cfc0b6f> Message-ID: <00a201cc2881$9da7bdd0$0301a8c0@randall> > Problem is when I turn the light switch on, the Ammeter jumps > to 30+ and the rear lights are dim and the wires red hot So, in addition to the short, you've got the ammeter wired backwards. > The diagrams I have indicated that the two tail lamps are in > series with 2 red leads that tie each together, correct? That's called "in parallel", since each fixture is connected between the red wire and ground. But yes, the red wire goes to three fixtures, to the dim (tail) filament at each corner and to the license plate light in the center. > I haven't seen any diagrams that indicate 2 green/purple leads > to the right tail lamp, should these be twisted and go to one > connection, or is one of them not used? Check any of the later factory diagrams, they all show the two GP wires. "Twisting" is not acceptable practice, IMO, instead they need to be soldered or crimped or both. And yes, the two wires both go to the same bullet, which connects to the bright (brake) filament. However there is no power on that wire until you step on the brakes with the ignition on, so it's not the problem. If you don't have a factory diagram, go to http://tinyurl.com/286jzzu and download "Practical Hints 6th Edition.pdf". The wiring diagram is on page 49, and the rest of the book is something that every TR3A owner should have. (It's basically the factory owner's manual for a later TR3A.) > I also > didn't remember any grounds on those lamps when I pulled the > old ones out, and I didn't ground these other, should I start there? There weren't any ground wires originally, but I recommend adding them. I made up a ground harness from 16 AWG black insulated wire, with bullets for each fixture (all 5 of them) and a ring terminal for the RH fuel tank mounting bolt (plus a star lockwasher). Wouldn't hurt to ground the fuel sender while you're at it. However, I don't think any of this is the actual immediate problem! What you are looking for is a short between the red circuit and ground. Since the rear lights come on (dimly), most likely the short is somewhere else, like at the front lights. My next step would be to disconnect the red circuit to both front lights at the junction behind the horns on each side. Then if the ammeter still hits the peg when you turn on the switch, you can try disconnecting at the rear lights (all 3 of them). -- Randall From fishplate at charter.net Sat Jun 11 16:08:13 2011 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2011 18:08:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fuel percolation In-Reply-To: <001001cc2850$6de76e00$0301a8c0@randall> References: <20110611011951.7044C187675@autox.team.net><0a4201cc27d9$c331f780$0301a8c0@randall> <4DF3782C.8000902@charter.net> <001001cc2850$6de76e00$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <4DF3E74D.7060204@charter.net> On 6/11/2011 11:58 AM, Randall wrote: > Somehow, I don't believe they are going to violate state law, just in case I > might buy some gas from them. > OK, that's different. It's not illegal here. From auprichard at uprichard.net Sat Jun 11 16:14:24 2011 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2011 18:14:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] BAck again - and with a question In-Reply-To: <201106111652.59031.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <2AA42553272640C8A6591257A5E0545E@DCH6RFC1> <201106111652.59031.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: Thanks, Bob - I'll add it to the list. I have sent an email out thanking everyone for their suggestions, but it hasn't posted yet (at least I haven't seen it). I'll be back once the problem is solved. Andrew -----Original Message----- From: Bob [mailto:yellowtr at adelphia.net] Sent: Saturday, June 11, 2011 4:53 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Cc: Andrew Uprichard Subject: Re: [TR] BAck again - and with a question Andrew, Not sure if this is your problem, but I was working on my 72 TR6 yesterday trying to get the engine running smooth after a rebuild. Engine ran fine in the garage, but when I tried to take it around the block it stumbled like a bucking horse. I replaced plugs, wires, condenser, dist cap, double checked the points, checked fuel flow, redid timing. Nothing helped one bit. As I was typing a query to the 6Pack forum, I noticed I didn't change the rotor. Well that was the problem. Darn thing looked fine to me but a new rotor fixed the problem. Bob From auprichard at uprichard.net Sat Jun 11 16:16:17 2011 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2011 18:16:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fuel percolation In-Reply-To: <4DF3782C.8000902@charter.net> References: <20110611011951.7044C187675@autox.team.net><0a4201cc27d9$c331f780$0301a8c0@randall> <4DF3782C.8000902@charter.net> Message-ID: Corrosion acres? I love it............ -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jeff Scarbrough Sent: Saturday, June 11, 2011 10:14 AM To: Triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] Fuel percolation On 6/10/2011 9:49 PM, Randall wrote: > And some of us are not willing to drive 2+ hours each way just to fill the > tank. > Well, it's a good excuse to drive your car somewhere, and if other stations find out you're willing to drive that far to pay a premium for Etoh-free fuel, they may consider offering it closer to you. Tongue partially in cheek... Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From maestrokneer at hotmail.com Sat Jun 11 17:38:22 2011 From: maestrokneer at hotmail.com (Erik Kneer) Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2011 16:38:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] Junk Email to list In-Reply-To: <20110611.155723.192.3.maya2blue@juno.com> References: <20110611.155723.192.3.maya2blue@juno.com> Message-ID: Likewise. Is someone going to fix this? Otherwise, I am planning on unsubscribing. Erik Sent from my mobile device. On Jun 11, 2011, at 1:57 PM, Harve B Thorn wrote: > same here - I was subscribed to digest but am now getting individual > msgs. > > harve thorn > maya2blue > > Harve > > > NOTICE: It is okay to print this email. Paper is a plentiful, > biodegradable, renewable, recyclable, sustainable product made from trees > that provide jobs and income for millions of people. > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/maestrokneer at hotmail.com > > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > http://www.team.net/archive > From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Jun 11 18:24:05 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2011 17:24:05 -0700 Subject: [TR] Junk Email to list In-Reply-To: References: <20110611.155723.192.3.maya2blue@juno.com> Message-ID: <00df01cc2897$0a346380$0301a8c0@randall> > Likewise. Is someone going to fix this? Otherwise, I am > planning on unsubscribing. "Someone" probably won't, but I'll bet you can fix it yourself. Go to http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs Log in and set digest mode back to 'On'. Please remember, these lists are maintained and operated by an unpaid, underappreciated volunteer who has been the "man behind the curtain" for many years. It's unfortunate there was a big server crash, but I think he did an outstanding job of getting the lists back on the air (in spite of being sick at the time). No doubt there were some things lost in the crash, like your "Digest Mode" options; but I think it is unreasonable to expect him to "fix" everyone's account (especially since I don't think he's home from Laguna Seca yet, nor does he usually read this list). And the spam almost certainly has nothing to do with either your options being lost, or the list server itself. Someone's PC got hacked/infected, not the list server. -- Randall From fogbro1 at comcast.net Sun Jun 12 10:43:20 2011 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2011 16:43:20 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] thread size tr2 gear shift handle In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <369527380.2153278.1307897000387.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Chris, It's 7/16 x 32. Macy's Garage manufactures that special chrome nut. Perhaps they have the tap: macysgarage.com If nothing else works, please contact me for aTR2/3 shift lever. I'm sure I have one with good threads, although the chrome plating may be suspect. Ed Woods ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chris Simo" To: "list Triumph" Sent: Sunday, May 15, 2011 4:49:12 PM Subject: [TR] thread size tr2 gear shift handle My gear shift lever on my TR2 apparently has some issues.B B It is lackign a threaded section,B I presume it hadB broken off long before I came into possesion. It's an early long door - and I seem to recall some dents in it and epoxying a walnut shift handle on to it some 30 years ago. a good Triumph friend, Hermann VB of the HVDA transmission conversion fame, had an extra TR3 shift lever and he volunteered it to the cause.B Only issue, B the threads are in rough shape.B Does anyone know the size tap I'd need.B It appears to be a very fine thread 7/16th.dia. If anyone has a tap and could chase it for me - even better. Thanks Chris From mark at bradakis.com Sun Jun 12 10:48:10 2011 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2011 10:48:10 -0600 Subject: [TR] Digest mode Message-ID: <4DF4EDCA.4090801@bradakis.com> I think I may have fixed the problem with the digest mode of this list. mjb. From dwillner at ptd.net Sun Jun 12 12:42:24 2011 From: dwillner at ptd.net (davewillner) Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2011 14:42:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A turn signal question Message-ID: New wiring harness installed, everything works well. I set up the driving lamps, heater and fixed the connections to the wiper switch. The one problem I do have is when the headlights are on the blinkers don't flash, when the headlights are off they work fine, any thoughts? Thanks Dave Willner Stroudsburg PA 59 TR3A 70 MGB 70 BSA 441 VS From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Sun Jun 12 14:35:37 2011 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2011 13:35:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4A Dash Lamps - Holes not large enough In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On Fri, May 13, 2011 at 1:14 PM, G.D. Huggins wrote: > ...Can someone tell me the correct diameter for these lamps? Am I doing it > wrong? That one I think. On my TR4 those lamps are mounted to the metal dash and just peek thru the holes in the wood. I have seen a dash made to allow the lamps to go right thru and it looked good but that was a homemade (and nicely made) dash so he could do whatever he likes. Geo From anabil007 at comcast.net Sun Jun 12 14:44:44 2011 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2011 13:44:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] factory alloy sump and rocker cover In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Not common, Highly Desirable, cost ... ?? >I am looking at possible purchase of a '56 TR3. It has fitted >factory optional finned aluminum high capacity oil pan and finned >aluminum rocker cover. The rocker cover has this little TR world >decoration on it, so I know it's not an aftermarket piece. Can >anyone tell me if these pieces are common, or add much value to the >car? >Thanks, >Don -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA From dwillner at ptd.net Sun Jun 12 15:09:52 2011 From: dwillner at ptd.net (davewillner) Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2011 17:09:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A turn signal question follow up Message-ID: <06A5B97898014706B0EF1EA386707129@valued9cfc0b6f> I had another flasher unit I just put in and now the rear signals work with the lights on, but not the front. Is there something not wired correctly, or do I need to take both the fronts apart and clean and tighten the fitting? I checked the connections and they all seem very tight where they connect to the control head leads? The brightness of the two front bulbs also seems a bit dim also when they are flashing, but the rears seem very bright? Thanks Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: davewillner To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, June 12, 2011 2:42 PM Subject: TR3A turn signal question New wiring harness installed, everything works well. I set up the driving lamps, heater and fixed the connections to the wiper switch. The one problem I do have is when the headlights are on the blinkers don't flash, when the headlights are off they work fine, any thoughts? Thanks Dave Willner Stroudsburg PA 59 TR3A 70 MGB 70 BSA 441 VS From jimmuller at rcn.com Sun Jun 12 15:11:41 2011 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2011 17:11:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] Digest mode In-Reply-To: <4DF4EDCA.4090801@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <4DF4F34D.12581.23843911@localhost> On 12 Jun 2011 at 10:48, Mark J Bradakis wrote: > I think I may have fixed the problem with the digest mode > of this list. Good to hear your digestion is back to normal, Mark. On a completely unrelated note, this afternoon I managed to get the gearbox back into my GT6. Finished re-assembly yesterday, installed today. And I didn't slice my knuckles open. There are a few more bolts to go, plus the interior, but that's all easy. It's amazing what I can get done when I don't do anything else. Today is Sharon's and my 34th wedding anniversary. We went to yoga this morning with a new instructor who held the toughest class I've been to in years. After that and then manhandling the gearbox into the car this afternoon I expect I'll be moderately tired tomorrow. No, make that sore. Still, it is good to get this done. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From wbeech at flash.net Sun Jun 12 15:14:46 2011 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2011 15:14:46 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3A turn signal question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <78B1345CBC6B413ABF06E443BBF2D473@bboffice> As you already know from your installation it is just a lot of track & trace to find. I would start by disconnecting the head lights/running lights/tail lights one at a time and try the turn signals after each disconnection. If no resolution there, start at the stator tube wiring and run your connections all the way through. It will be in the last place that you look. Good luck, Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of davewillner Sent: Sunday, June 12, 2011 12:42 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR3A turn signal question New wiring harness installed, everything works well. I set up the driving lamps, heater and fixed the connections to the wiper switch. The one problem I do have is when the headlights are on the blinkers don't flash, when the headlights are off they work fine, any thoughts? Thanks Dave Willner Stroudsburg PA 59 TR3A 70 MGB 70 BSA 441 VS triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jun 12 16:38:23 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2011 15:38:23 -0700 Subject: [TR] thread size tr2 gear shift handle In-Reply-To: <369527380.2153278.1307897000387.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <369527380.2153278.1307897000387.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <011601cc2951$70362c30$0301a8c0@randall> > It's 7/16 x 32. Just a thought, a 32 tpi thread repair file is bound to be a lot cheaper than a 7/16-32 die. And you can probably find the file at your local Sears or tool store, while the die will probably be a special-order item. MMC has the die for $60, the file for $11.27 -- Randall From TR250Driver at aol.com Sun Jun 12 17:35:23 2011 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2011 19:35:23 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] factory alloy sump and rocker cover Message-ID: <54424.1d3b4d8.3b26a73b@aol.com> Don, Yes those options are very rare and ad value to your purchase. They are official Triumph Optional Equipment. Darrell In a message dated 6/12/2011 2:21:37 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, tartanredmgb at gmail.com writes: I am looking at possible purchase of a '56 TR3. It has fitted factory optional finned aluminum high capacity oil pan and finned aluminum rocker cover. The rocker cover has this little TR world decoration on it, so I know it's not an aftermarket piece. Can anyone tell me if these pieces are common, or add much value to the car? Thanks, Don triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tr250driver at aol.com From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Sun Jun 12 17:38:57 2011 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2011 16:38:57 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Junk Email to list In-Reply-To: <00df01cc2897$0a346380$0301a8c0@randall> References: <20110611.155723.192.3.maya2blue@juno.com> <00df01cc2897$0a346380$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <224508.95523.qm@web120210.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> what Randall said! ________________________________ From: Randall Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net; shop-talk at autox.team.net; tr6.guy at verizon.net Sent: Sat, June 11, 2011 5:24:05 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Junk Email to list > Likewise. Is someone going to fix this? Otherwise, I am > planning on unsubscribing. "Someone" probably won't, but I'll bet you can fix it yourself. Go to http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs Log in and set digest mode back to 'On'. Please remember, these lists are maintained and operated by an unpaid, underappreciated volunteer who has been the "man behind the curtain" for many years. It's unfortunate there was a big server crash, but I think he did an outstanding job of getting the lists back on the air (in spite of being sick at the time). No doubt there were some things lost in the crash, like your "Digest Mode" options; but I think it is unreasonable to expect him to "fix" everyone's account (especially since I don't think he's home from Laguna Seca yet, nor does he usually read this list). And the spam almost certainly has nothing to do with either your options being lost, or the list server itself. Someone's PC got hacked/infected, not the list server. -- Randall triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From TRDOCTOR at aol.com Sun Jun 12 17:52:31 2011 From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com) Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2011 19:52:31 EDT Subject: [TR] 3rd gear snapring Message-ID: <51256.555b50d5.3b26ab3f@aol.com> Smack it with a hammer and then use a screw driver to work it up onto the tool. You will probably have to chuck the tool in a vice to pull it off of the shaft with the snap ring on the tool. You won't hurt the tool. I have done it several times. Sam Clark Green Country Triumphs So what's the trick to removal of the 3rd gear snap ring off of the main shaft? I have always used multiple screwdrivers in the past but I now have the Churchill tool for doing it. Smack it with a hammer and drive it under the snap ring? Put it in a press and push it under? I've never used one before and don't want to break anything in the process (especially the tool :-). Mike TS11544L From zoboherald at aol.com Sun Jun 12 18:44:22 2011 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace) Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2011 20:44:22 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] floor mats In-Reply-To: <4DF44716.8060008@gmail.com> References: <348456.99573.qm@web120205.mail.ne1.yahoo.com><463786096B754C07A1183E9768275C6C@bboffice> <4DF44716.8060008@gmail.com> Message-ID: <8CDF77A2C0D184E-14F4-132DF@webmail-m139.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: TeriAnn J. Wakeman Ummm Excuse me but TR3's didn't come with carpets on the floor. Theycame with rubber mats not carpet. ==AM== True, the TR3A and TR3B models did come with rubber mats in the front footwells (carpeting elsewhere). But for many years it probably was easier to find an NOS TR2 metal tonneau cover or undershield as it was those mats. Fortunately, they have been reproduced in recent years (the mats, not the tonneaus or undershields :) ). --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us From zoboherald at aol.com Sun Jun 12 18:52:12 2011 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace) Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2011 20:52:12 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Junk Email to list In-Reply-To: <4DF3E2E9.40602@bradakis.com> References: <4DF3E2E9.40602@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <8CDF77B444193EE-14F4-13545@webmail-m139.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: Mark J Bradakis You don't want to know how many spam messages *I* had todeal with today! ==AM== I can well imagine, Mark; it's something I deal with constantly where I work (among other things, I administer some three dozen Listserv lists with varying sizes of membership, posting privileges, message volume, etc.). I admit to finding it amusing that my home AOL mail is as good if not better at filtering out most spam messages than the e-mail system we're forced to use at work (Novell GroupWise, if anyone cares). A wise man once said, "do not judge a man until you have walked a mile in his inbox" (or something like that)! --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Sun Jun 12 19:13:51 2011 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2011 21:13:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] thread size tr2 gear shift handle In-Reply-To: <011601cc2951$70362c30$0301a8c0@randall> References: <369527380.2153278.1307897000387.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <011601cc2951$70362c30$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: Thanks to all - I found a 7/16x32 die on ebay for reasonable money like 9 bucks - The threads on the shifter I have are really torn up - someone put a set screw type knob on it.... If anyone else wants to borrow it when I"m done - throw me a line. Chris On Sun, Jun 12, 2011 at 6:38 PM, Randall wrote: >> It's 7/16 x 32. > > Just a thought, a 32 tpi thread repair file is bound to be a lot cheaper > than a 7/16-32 die. And you can probably find the file at your local Sears > or tool store, while the die will probably be a special-order item. > > MMC has the die for $60, the file for $11.27 > > -- Randall > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ccsimonsen at gmail.com From smithw1 at optonline.net Sun Jun 12 19:20:53 2011 From: smithw1 at optonline.net (William L. Smith) Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2011 21:20:53 -0400 Subject: [TR] Digest mode In-Reply-To: <4DF4EDCA.4090801@bradakis.com> References: <4DF4EDCA.4090801@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <008e01cc2968$242f9ee0$6401a8c0@D6NFTC81> Mark, happy to hear that the digest may be back. I, like Gary Klein, was subscribed to the digest, but started receiving individual posts. Will our subscription option to receive the digests be reinstated automatically, or do we have to go onto the subscription configuration page to turn the digest back on? I know that the digest was fixed just today, but has anyone received a digest since it's been fixed? Again, thanks Mark. Bill Smith '72 TR6 '80 TR7 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis Sent: Sunday, June 12, 2011 12:48 PM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] Digest mode I think I may have fixed the problem with the digest mode of this list. mjb. triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/smithw1 at optonline.net From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jun 12 19:30:35 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2011 18:30:35 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A turn signal question follow up In-Reply-To: <06A5B97898014706B0EF1EA386707129@valued9cfc0b6f> References: <06A5B97898014706B0EF1EA386707129@valued9cfc0b6f> Message-ID: <017701cc2969$7e8dd130$0301a8c0@randall> > I had another flasher unit I just put in and now the rear > signals work with > the lights on, but not the front. So the front marker lights do flash with the headlights off, but only stay on solid with the headlights on? In that case, I think you have the front turn signals wired wrong, with the running lights connected to the bright filament and the turn signals connected to the dim filament. -- Randall From mlang99 at comcast.net Sun Jun 12 21:09:40 2011 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2011 20:09:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] 3rd gear snapring In-Reply-To: <51256.555b50d5.3b26ab3f@aol.com> References: <51256.555b50d5.3b26ab3f@aol.com> Message-ID: <4DF57F74.2010904@comcast.net> I have now used it to remove the snap rings from a couple of transmissions. It works really slick. Way better than trying to manipulate 3 or 4 screw drivers at the same time. The snap ring tool that I've got has a threaded rod in the end of it that acts as a puller. Thanks, Mike TRDOCTOR at aol.com wrote: > Smack it with a hammer and then use a screw driver to work it up onto the > tool. You will probably have to chuck the tool in a vice to pull it off of > the shaft with the snap ring on the tool. You won't hurt the tool. I > have done it several times. > > Sam Clark > Green Country Triumphs > > So what's the trick to removal of the 3rd gear snap ring off of the main > shaft? I have always used multiple screwdrivers in the past but I > now have the Churchill tool for doing it. Smack it with a hammer and > drive it under the snap ring? Put it in a press and push it under? I've > never used one before and don't want to break anything in the process > (especially the tool :-). > > Mike > TS11544L From TRDOCTOR at aol.com Sun Jun 12 21:34:36 2011 From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com) Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2011 23:34:36 EDT Subject: [TR] 3rd gear snapring Message-ID: <5b577.57d7cea5.3b26df4c@aol.com> I purchased one of the last Churchill tools from TRF a few years ago along with the installation tools. Mine does not have a threaded rod. It is knurled on the outside of the tool. Sure makes the job easier!! Sam In a message dated 6/12/2011 10:12:39 P.M. Central Daylight Time, mlang99 at comcast.net writes: I have now used it to remove the snap rings from a couple of transmissions. It works really slick. Way better than trying to manipulate 3 or 4 screw drivers at the same time. The snap ring tool that I've got has a threaded rod in the end of it that acts as a puller. Thanks, Mike TRDOCTOR at aol.com wrote: > Smack it with a hammer and then use a screw driver to work it up onto the > tool. You will probably have to chuck the tool in a vice to pull it off of > the shaft with the snap ring on the tool. You won't hurt the tool. I > have done it several times. > > Sam Clark > Green Country Triumphs > > So what's the trick to removal of the 3rd gear snap ring off of the main > shaft? I have always used multiple screwdrivers in the past but I > now have the Churchill tool for doing it. Smack it with a hammer and > drive it under the snap ring? Put it in a press and push it under? I've > never used one before and don't want to break anything in the process > (especially the tool :-). > > Mike > TS11544L From triumphstag at gmail.com Sun Jun 12 22:23:46 2011 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy) Date: Sun, 12 Jun 2011 21:23:46 -0700 Subject: [TR] rust removers recommendations Message-ID: Can anyone recommend a good liquid type rust remover? I'd like to soak some Stag parts in a bath. There are some types where you soak them in a bath and then wash the stuff off, I'm not looking for that type. Sujit -- Sujit Roy, Realtor Keller Williams Realty, Cupertino, CA (408) 839-8359 roysrealty.com From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk Sat Jun 11 10:38:40 2011 From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2011 17:38:40 +0100 (BST) Subject: [TR] Junk Email to list In-Reply-To: <181B16E009EB44C5A9AA0C36FA2E0C29@Vista> References: <181B16E009EB44C5A9AA0C36FA2E0C29@Vista> Message-ID: <275365.4636.qm@web28309.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> I've been getting piles of spam recently coming past my filters?- and that was *before* someone hijacked my email address. Guess someone up-line of me got hijacked as well? ? Jonmac From: Joe Curry To: triumphs at autox.team.net; spitfires at autox.team.net Sent: Saturday, 11 June 2011, 16:10 Subject: [TR] Junk Email to list This morning I had 42 Spam emails in my inbox all addressed to the Triumph and Spitfire lists as well as at least one individual.? I am wondering if others have received these as well or just me and the others whose individual address were on the ?TO? line. ? Joe triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mark at bradakis.com Mon Jun 13 01:19:13 2011 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2011 01:19:13 -0600 Subject: [TR] rust removers recommendations In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4DF5B9F1.5000803@bradakis.com> Sujit Roy wrote: > Can anyone recommend a good liquid type rust remover? I'd like to soak some > Stag parts in a bath. There are some types where you soak them in a bath and > then wash the stuff off, I'm not looking for that type. > > > So you want to soak the parts in a bath but not soak the parts in a bath. Am I reading this right? mjb. From ambritts at bellsouth.net Mon Jun 13 05:36:28 2011 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2011 07:36:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] rust removers recommendations In-Reply-To: <4DF5B9F1.5000803@bradakis.com> References: <4DF5B9F1.5000803@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <198E3DDAE52844C48C3DCF953EF1A1ED@AlexPC> Moss part # 225-390 Evapo-Rust. I have used this and it works great. It is also reusable. You just keep recycling it. Biodegradable also. A little salty but you can reuse as I said. This is also available in local stores. Just can't remember which ones. Alex 59TR3A 72TR6 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark J Bradakis" To: "Triumphs" Sent: Monday, June 13, 2011 3:19 AM Subject: Re: [TR] rust removers recommendations > Sujit Roy wrote: >> Can anyone recommend a good liquid type rust remover? I'd like to soak >> some >> Stag parts in a bath. There are some types where you soak them in a bath >> and >> then wash the stuff off, I'm not looking for that type. >> >> >> > > So you want to soak the parts in a bath but not soak the parts > in a bath. Am I reading this right? > > mjb. From dwillner at ptd.net Mon Jun 13 05:41:39 2011 From: dwillner at ptd.net (davewillner) Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2011 07:41:39 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A turn signal question follow up References: <06A5B97898014706B0EF1EA386707129@valued9cfc0b6f> <017701cc2969$7e8dd130$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <28302AF390B94AF6AD8BA459E93C5C05@valued9cfc0b6f> I'll recheck the connections tonight. Thanks Randall Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: Sent: Sunday, June 12, 2011 9:30 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A turn signal question follow up >> I had another flasher unit I just put in and now the rear >> signals work with >> the lights on, but not the front. > > So the front marker lights do flash with the headlights off, but only stay > on solid with the headlights on? In that case, I think you have the front > turn signals wired wrong, with the running lights connected to the bright > filament and the turn signals connected to the dim filament. > > -- Randall From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Mon Jun 13 05:47:54 2011 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2011 04:47:54 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Digest mode Message-ID: <722225.61681.qm@web39406.mail.mud.yahoo.com> From: Randall Subject: Re: [TR] Junk Email to list > Likewise. Is someone going to fix this? Otherwise, I am > planning on unsubscribing. "Someone" probably won't, but I'll bet you can fix it yourself. Go to http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs Log in and set digest mode back to 'On'. -- Randall ------------------------------------ Hi List! Yes, Randal is correct ALL the WAY! I, for some reason not known to me, stopped receiving the TRIUMPH Digest list back in mid May (Vol.5 #158). I read on the auto jumbo List that someone else was having a problem of not receiving the Digest, too. I waited for about 2 weeks (Thinking that Mark is on it & trying to fix it), because I know that he is VERY bussy & good at keeping the lis going. At that time after, I sent a message to mark asking why I have recived any TRIUMPH List or Digest mode. the next day I received 2 threads & nothing for after that. Last Thur. I sent another Email & started receiving single threads & noticed at the bottome was the
In a message dated 6/13/2011 2:10:22 AM Central Daylight Time, triumphstag at gmail.com writes: > Can anyone recommend a good liquid type rust remover? I'd like to soak > some > Stag parts in a bath. There are some types where you soak them in a bath > and > then wash the stuff off, I'm not looking for that type. > What type are you looking for? The two main types are the chelate that bonds with iron oxide much more quickly than iron or steel effectively removing the rust from a metal part with little or no effect on the remaining steel. It works slowly so you need to soak over night or for a few days. But it leaves no residue once you rinse it off. The product itself is not hazardous at all. http://www.evaporust.com/evaporust.html?gclid=CMujssbtsqkCFYTr7Qod3B4vMQ But that's not the stuff you are looking for. The other type is typically phosphoric acid. Navel Jelly is on commonly available product using phosphoric acid. It combines with iron oxide making iron phosphate. It does a pretty effective job of arresting rust but it leaves a residue of iron phosphate so it is best to either mechanically remove as much rust as you can first or mechanically remove the iron phosphate afterwards or you want the rust gone. This is a hazardous material in that it is an acid and must be handled as such. And you must rinse that off, too. There may be others. Dave From spook01 at comcast.net Mon Jun 13 07:43:19 2011 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2011 08:43:19 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?rust_removers_recommendations?= Message-ID: <20110613134315.D5B16187643@autox.team.net> For parts with little rust, vinegar works wonderfully. Very slowly, so you dont destroy the parts. Cheap, too. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Mark J Bradakis" To: "Triumphs" Subject: [TR] rust removers recommendations Date: Mon, Jun 13, 2011 02:19 Sujit Roy wrote: > Can anyone recommend a good liquid type rust remover? I'd like to soak some > Stag parts in a bath. There are some types where you soak them in a bath and > then wash the stuff off, I'm not looking for that type. > > > So you want to soak the parts in a bath but not soak the parts in a bath. Am I reading this right? mjb. triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From spook01 at comcast.net Mon Jun 13 07:47:56 2011 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2011 08:47:56 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Just_as_a_warning=2E=2E=2E?= Message-ID: <20110613134754.B99B7187643@autox.team.net> Guys, This bogus message is from someone hacking my address off a car list. Notice how its constructed. Beware. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Forwarded message ----- From: "Tony Somebody" To: Subject: Hi Date: Mon, Jun 13, 2011 08:28 Hope you get this on time, sorry I didn't inform you about my trip in Spain for a Program, I'm presently in Madrid and am having some difficulties here because i misplaced my wallet on my way to the hotel where my money and other valuable things were kept. presently i have limited access to internet, I will like you to assist me with a loan of 2,600 Euros to sort-out my hotel bills and to get myself back home. I have spoken to the embassy here but they are not responding to the matter effectively, I will appreciate whatever you can afford to assist me with, I'll Refund the money back to you as soon as I return, let me know if you can be of any help. I don't have a phone where I can be reached. Please let me know immediately. Best regards Tony From dwillner at ptd.net Mon Jun 13 08:35:34 2011 From: dwillner at ptd.net (davewillner) Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2011 10:35:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A rear fendor bolt removal Message-ID: Installing the fender beading and need help in finding a tool out there that makes removing the screws (inside the boot) that holds the rear fenders tight a little easier than a simple impact driver? I've soaked the nuts and my cheap impact driver and did break two free, but that's it.... Appreciate it Dave Willner Stroudsburg PA 59 TR3A 70 MGB 70 BSA 441 VS From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jun 13 09:02:47 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2011 08:02:47 -0700 Subject: [TR] rust removers recommendations In-Reply-To: <3187b.7128a1b9.3b275c66@cs.com> References: <3187b.7128a1b9.3b275c66@cs.com> Message-ID: <01b701cc29da$f50fbb40$0301a8c0@randall> > It does a pretty effective job of arresting > rust but it > leaves a residue of iron phosphate What's wrong with a coating of iron phosphate? I thought it was supposed to be a Good Thing, as it helps inhibit future rust and also helps paint adhere. For example, phosphoric acid is the main ingredient in DX579 Metal Prep, which is used to etch the surface just before applying primer. > This is a hazardous > material in that it is > an acid and must be handled as such. And you must rinse that > off, too. Phosphoric acid is not very hazardous, though, and in fact is an ingredient in many soft drinks. After reacting with rust, you have iron phosphate and water. -- Randall From agraham at execulink.com Mon Jun 13 10:04:38 2011 From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham) Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2011 12:04:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 temp. gauge & capilliary tube. Message-ID: <4DF63516.4030109@execulink.com> Hello List: Just getting at re-installing the temp. gauge & tube in my '2. How important is it to follow the manual diagram on routing the tube to the right and around the heater, then to the fire-wall hole? Seems a much more direct path if you stay to the left and approach the fire-wall hole that way. May need a loop in the tube to take up some length. Any problems with deviating from the original routing? Also, have a couple of screw clips on my tube. Just find a convenient place on the heater rails to attach these? Must say, have forgotten how this came out... Thanks for any help with this. Angelo Graham From sumton at sbcglobal.net Mon Jun 13 10:27:24 2011 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2011 11:27:24 -0500 Subject: [TR] rust removers recommendations In-Reply-To: <20110613134315.D5B16187643@autox.team.net> References: <20110613134315.D5B16187643@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <35A168501BA941869CA693F16CDB0F0C@ranteer.local> when your finished, do not pour the old vinegar solution down your driveway. it will stain for years. ask me how I know -------------------------------------------------- From: Sent: Monday, June 13, 2011 8:43 AM To: "Mark J Bradakis" ; "Triumphs" Subject: Re: [TR] rust removers recommendations > For parts with little rust, vinegar works wonderfully. Very slowly, so > you dont destroy the parts. > Cheap, too. > > Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone > > ----- Reply message ----- From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Mon Jun 13 10:59:15 2011 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net) Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2011 11:59:15 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 Dash Vinyl Installation Message-ID: <729014488.1521802.1307984355530.JavaMail.root@vznit170078> Ok - how does one stretch and/or notch the dash vinyl on the TR3 to fit the cubby box opening. Ruined the first attempt - it tore beyond the visible area. In my opinion there is no way that it can be heated enough to cover the inside corners, the curve of the inside of the door and roll-over to the backside of that metal. Help.... Carl From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Mon Jun 13 11:52:13 2011 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2011 10:52:13 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] rust removers recommendations Message-ID: <488794.52865.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I favor electrolysis rust removal. Cheap, safe and work great. Doesn't harm the metal either. It takes only a few minutes to set up. http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolytic_derusting.htm http://www.instructables.com/id/Electrolytic-Rust-Removal-aka-Magic/ Bill Brewer - Tehachapi, CA Subject: [TR] rust removers recommendations Can anyone recommend a good liquid type rust remover? I'd like to soak some Stag parts in a bath. There are some types where you soak them in a bath and then wash the stuff off, I'm not looking for that type. Sujit From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jun 13 12:25:16 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2011 11:25:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A rear fendor bolt removal In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000f01cc29f7$3eef41b0$bccdc510$@rr.com> > Installing the fender beading and need help in finding a tool out there > that > makes removing the screws (inside the boot) that holds the rear fenders > tight > a little easier than a simple impact driver? You may have to destroy the screws (grind or drill the heads off) and then replace them once the fender is off. But I found that a big screwdriver (the kind with a roughened tip and a hex on the shank) worked better for me than an impact driver. The sheet metal just flexes too much to get much impact into the bolt, IMO. Get the screwdriver tip seated securely (it should be a tight fit both width and length if you've got the right screwdriver) and then lean on it as hard as you can, being careful to hold it exactly square to the screw while turning the shank with a wrench. All of mine came out, but not all of them were reusable. -- Randall From triumphstag at gmail.com Mon Jun 13 14:08:20 2011 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy) Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2011 13:08:20 -0700 Subject: [TR] rust removers recommendations In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks this is all good information. How would I clean the very small parts with the reverse plating method? It would be difficult and time consuming to do one part at a time. Back in the UK I used a product called Jenolite. With that, you didn't need to wash the parts in water afterwards. The parts had a blackish coating which you could paint over with primer. Is anything like that available? The idea of washing the stuff off with water afterwards sounds counter intuitive. Sujit On Sun, Jun 12, 2011 at 9:23 PM, Sujit Roy wrote: > Can anyone recommend a good liquid type rust remover? I'd like to soak some > Stag parts in a bath. There are some types where you soak them in a bath and > then wash the stuff off, I'm not looking for that type. > > Sujit > > -- > Sujit Roy, Realtor > Keller Williams Realty, Cupertino, CA > (408) 839-8359 > roysrealty.com > -- Sujit Roy, Realtor Keller Williams Realty, Cupertino, CA (408) 839-8359 roysrealty.com From cliff_hansen at earthlink.net Mon Jun 13 14:25:31 2011 From: cliff_hansen at earthlink.net (Cliff Hansen) Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2011 13:25:31 -0700 Subject: [TR] rust removers recommendations In-Reply-To: <488794.52865.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <488794.52865.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <9E9176C700BE4B2588C86CB874C86108@Shemp> Out of an abundance of caution, if you do this, ensure ventilation and keep the bucket away from any open flames or sparks. The bubbles are hydrogen and oxygen. For all practical purposes the gases are sufficiently dilute that you don't have a risk of deflagration but over time you can build up concentrations in an enclosed space. Better safe than sorry. Cliff -----Original Message----- From: William Brewer Sent: Monday, June 13, 2011 10:52 AM To: triumphstag at gmail.com Cc: Triumphs Subject: [TR] rust removers recommendations I favor electrolysis rust removal. Cheap, safe and work great. Doesn't harm the metal either. It takes only a few minutes to set up. http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolytic_derusting.htm http://www.instructables.com/id/Electrolytic-Rust-Removal-aka-Magic/ Bill Brewer - Tehachapi, CA Subject: [TR] rust removers recommendations Can anyone recommend a good liquid type rust remover? I'd like to soak some Stag parts in a bath. There are some types where you soak them in a bath and then wash the stuff off, I'm not looking for that type. Sujit triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cliff_hansen at earthlink.net From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Jun 13 14:49:04 2011 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2011 16:49:04 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] rust removers recommendations Message-ID: <40f27.150597b.3b27d1c0@cs.com> In a message dated 6/13/2011 12:53:04 PM Central Daylight Time, TR3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > What's wrong with a coating of iron phosphate? I thought it was supposed > to > be a Good Thing, as it helps inhibit future rust and also helps paint > adhere. For example, phosphoric acid is the main ingredient in DX579 > Metal > Prep, which is used to etch the surface just before applying primer. > Depends on the application. No worries of you are going to paint. If you are going to powder coat, maybe not. If you are going to zinc plate, that's a real issue. If it is a machine part (as opposed to a fender) I don't think you would want iron phosphate in the gearbox. Dave From spook01 at comcast.net Mon Jun 13 14:55:08 2011 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2011 15:55:08 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?rust_removers_recommendations?= Message-ID: <20110613205508.3277418765B@autox.team.net> Hi guys, I think the list has been hacked. I keep getting notes saying I am trying to change my password. Sorry, not me. Also have gotten notes saying I am trying to unsubscribe. False. Are the list guys checking this out?? Ray Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Cliff Hansen" To: "William Brewer" , Cc: "Triumphs" Subject: [TR] rust removers recommendations Date: Mon, Jun 13, 2011 15:25 Out of an abundance of caution, if you do this, ensure ventilation and keep the bucket away from any open flames or sparks. The bubbles are hydrogen and oxygen. For all practical purposes the gases are sufficiently dilute that you don't have a risk of deflagration but over time you can build up concentrations in an enclosed space. Better safe than sorry. Cliff -----Original Message----- From: William Brewer Sent: Monday, June 13, 2011 10:52 AM To: triumphstag at gmail.com Cc: Triumphs Subject: [TR] rust removers recommendations I favor electrolysis rust removal. Cheap, safe and work great. Doesn't harm the metal either. It takes only a few minutes to set up. http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolytic_derusting.htm http://www.instructables.com/id/Electrolytic-Rust-Removal-aka-Magic/ Bill Brewer - Tehachapi, CA Subject: [TR] rust removers recommendations Can anyone recommend a good liquid type rust remover? I'd like to soak some Stag parts in a bath. There are some types where you soak them in a bath and then wash the stuff off, I'm not looking for that type. Sujit triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cliff_hansen at earthlink.net triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Jun 13 14:55:49 2011 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2011 16:55:49 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] rust removers recommendations Message-ID: <41499.2e3d5af0.3b27d355@cs.com> In a message dated 6/13/2011 12:53:04 PM Central Daylight Time, TR3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > Phosphoric acid is not very hazardous, though, and in fact is an > ingredient > in many soft drinks. After reacting with rust, you have iron phosphate > and > water. > And we have hydrochloric acid in our stomachs, that doesn't mean I want laboratory grade acid splashing on my skin or eyes. This is a case where the solution to pollution is dilution. Most domestic water systems in this country have enough lime and other dissolved minerals in larger enough quantities to neutralize the acid. The acid that does react with the rust does leave behind just phosphate and water. The question is how do you avoid using more than you need? What happens to the excess? Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Jun 13 15:00:30 2011 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2011 17:00:30 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] TR2/3 temp. gauge & capilliary tube. Message-ID: <41822.34fa3e2d.3b27d46e@cs.com> In a message dated 6/13/2011 12:57:50 PM Central Daylight Time, agraham at execulink.com writes: > Just getting at re-installing the temp. gauge &tube in my '2. How > important is it to follow the manual diagram on routing the tube to the > right and around the heater, then to the fire-wall hole? Seems a much > more direct path if you stay to the left and approach the fire-wall hole > that way. May need a loop in the tube to take up some length. Any > problems with deviating from the original routing? > Also, have a couple of screw clips on my tube. Just find a convenient > place on the heater rails to attach these? Must say, have forgotten how > this came out... Me too. I installed my to the left and I have so much slack I'm wondering what I'm going to do with it. Looping it around the heater may be the best thing. Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Jun 13 15:07:38 2011 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2011 17:07:38 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 Dash Vinyl Installation Message-ID: <41d7a.7f2f4479.3b27d61a@cs.com> In a message dated 6/13/2011 2:38:04 PM Central Daylight Time, cfmtr3a at verizon.net writes: > Ok - how does one stretch and/or notch the dash vinyl on the TR3 to fit > the cubby box opening. Ruined the first attempt - it tore beyond the > visible area. > > In my opinion there is no way that it can be heated enough to cover the > inside corners, the curve of the inside of the door and roll-over to the > backside of that metal. > My vinyl stretched just fine without heat. I cut flutes in the areas that wrap around the backside which helped and I used lots of contact adhesive and clamps. That was pretty straight forward. I'm just glad it isn't leather. Dave From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Mon Jun 13 15:42:31 2011 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2011 14:42:31 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] rust removers recommendations In-Reply-To: <20110613205508.3277418765B@autox.team.net> References: <20110613205508.3277418765B@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <116302.26695.qm@web120220.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> one of us has been hacked. not necessarily the list server. i got some junk from john Mac a few weeks ago. also got some from some names i don't recall. not saying you started anything John. i just recall one from your mail. i use this email strictly for the autox list and no other. my spam has suddenly increased to 10 to 12 a day in the last 2 to 4 weeks. just have to suffer through i guess. Mark we love ya, thanks for all you do. i cant imagine the grief your suffering Frank ________________________________ From: "spook01 at comcast.net" To: Cliff Hansen ; William Brewer ; triumphstag at gmail.com Cc: Triumphs Sent: Mon, June 13, 2011 1:55:08 PM Subject: Re: [TR] rust removers recommendations Hi guys, I think the list has been hacked. I keep getting notes saying I am trying to change my password. Sorry, not me. Also have gotten notes saying I am trying to unsubscribe. False. Are the list guys checking this out?? Ray Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Cliff Hansen" To: "William Brewer" , Cc: "Triumphs" Subject: [TR] rust removers recommendations Date: Mon, Jun 13, 2011 15:25 Out of an abundance of caution, if you do this, ensure ventilation and keep the bucket away from any open flames or sparks. The bubbles are hydrogen and oxygen. For all practical purposes the gases are sufficiently dilute that you don't have a risk of deflagration but over time you can build up concentrations in an enclosed space. Better safe than sorry. Cliff -----Original Message----- From: William Brewer Sent: Monday, June 13, 2011 10:52 AM To: triumphstag at gmail.com Cc: Triumphs Subject: [TR] rust removers recommendations I favor electrolysis rust removal. Cheap, safe and work great. Doesn't harm the metal either. It takes only a few minutes to set up. http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolytic_derusting.htm http://www.instructables.com/id/Electrolytic-Rust-Removal-aka-Magic/ Bill Brewer - Tehachapi, CA Subject: [TR] rust removers recommendations Can anyone recommend a good liquid type rust remover? I'd like to soak some Stag parts in a bath. There are some types where you soak them in a bath and then wash the stuff off, I'm not looking for that type. Sujit triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cliff_hansen at earthlink.net triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From terryrs at comcast.net Mon Jun 13 15:46:58 2011 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2011 21:46:58 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] rust removers recommendations In-Reply-To: <41499.2e3d5af0.3b27d355@cs.com> Message-ID: <192000354.2057751.1308001618400.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> >And we have hydrochloric acid in our stomachs, that doesn't mean I want >laboratory grade acid splashing on my skin or eyes. This is a case where the >solution to pollution is dilution. >The question is how do you avoid using more than you need? What >happens to the excess? Did a frame-off nut twisting, bolt churning, restoration of my TR3A. Sawed the body in half to get it off the frame...easy because the rockers and floors were mostly gone anyway! Suspect am proud possessor of the PowerBlaster Award for number one user at one point. Used phosphoric acid in gallon jugs from, ISTR, Home Depot or Lowes. Diluted and in spray bottles. Dave is right. Burns like crazy when it gets on your skin, but a trick I learned was to be clumsy with POR 15 such that your hands are coated, thus protected. That's my story and I'm sticking to it.... Directions on the jug were pretty clear. Leave the part wet with it for 10 - 15 minutes, something like that, then hose off or spray liberally with the bottle. Let dry, then it's ready to prime and paint. I think it's been 10 years now, with daily driving when there's no snow. No issues with paint peeling or any of that. Painted surfaces look great, but then I'm not a concourse type so claim no true judgment here. Worked for me. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire (Finally got the timing right and the car is jumping out of its skin to accelerate. Gawd I love this car!) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jun 13 16:03:48 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2011 15:03:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] rust removers recommendations In-Reply-To: <41499.2e3d5af0.3b27d355@cs.com> References: <41499.2e3d5af0.3b27d355@cs.com> Message-ID: <004a01cc2a15$c6100440$52300cc0$@rr.com> > that doesn't mean I want > laboratory grade acid splashing on my skin or eyes. Actually, pure phosphoric acid isn't even a liquid. But we weren't talking about "laboratory grade acid" (whatever that means, most labs use mostly dilute acids anyway). The solutions commonly sold to remove rust, are already pretty dilute. I generally don't even bother with rubber gloves when working with DX579 (although I do dilute it about 1:4 before using it). Not saying it isn't dangerous, just that it's no worse than, say, chlorine bleach or gasoline or a hundred other common household chemicals. > The question is how do you avoid using more than you need? Easy, just take a look at what the stuff costs! > What happens to the excess? As you say, dilution. Flush it down the drain. -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jun 13 16:14:07 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2011 15:14:07 -0700 Subject: [TR] rust removers recommendations In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <004c01cc2a17$376349d0$a629dd70$@rr.com> > How would I clean the very small parts with the reverse plating method? > It > would be difficult and time consuming to do one part at a time. No reason you can't do several at a time, either in the same bucket or separate buckets. > Back in the UK I used a product called Jenolite. With that, you didn't > need > to wash the parts in water afterwards. The parts had a blackish coating > which you could paint over with primer. That sounds like the version commonly called "Rust Converter" and sold under several different brands here. Should be readily available at FLAPS, Wal-Mart, etc. I don't know that any one is better than the other, but I've been happy with the Kleen-Strip brand. http://www.amazon.com/Kleanstrip-KLSRC22-Rust-Converter-8oz/sim/B0015DMJZA/2 Recently though, I've been using the Rustoleum "Rust Reformer" which is similar, but seems to actually contain flat black paint in addition to the rust treatment. Seems to work better, on things that will be left outside but not given another coat of paint (like the plumbing on my air compressor). -- Randall From emanteno at comcast.net Mon Jun 13 16:30:01 2011 From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey) Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2011 17:30:01 -0500 Subject: [TR] Does Anyone Know Why? Message-ID: As I was driving my TR6 to Jekyll Island for VTR last year, caravanning with a friend in a TR3 and another in a TR4, I couldn't help but wonder why TRiumph equipped it's latest model (to date) with the largest displacement engine and the heaviest chassis, and the smallest gas tank. My TR4A had a 14 gallon tank, my TR6 has an 11.25 gallon tank. Anyone? JonMac, are you out there? Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From spitlist at cox.net Mon Jun 13 17:04:15 2011 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2011 16:04:15 -0700 Subject: [TR] Does Anyone Know Why? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: It was because the ultimately wise people in the factory knew how much the people in gas stations love to admire our cars. So the more times you have to stop, the more people can enjoy seeing them. Simple as that ! Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Irv Korey Sent: Monday, June 13, 2011 3:30 PM To: TRiumphs Subject: [TR] Does Anyone Know Why? As I was driving my TR6 to Jekyll Island for VTR last year, caravanning with a friend in a TR3 and another in a TR4, I couldn't help but wonder why TRiumph equipped it's latest model (to date) with the largest displacement engine and the heaviest chassis, and the smallest gas tank. My TR4A had a 14 gallon tank, my TR6 has an 11.25 gallon tank. Anyone? JonMac, are you out there? Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net From emanteno at comcast.net Mon Jun 13 17:09:55 2011 From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey) Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2011 18:09:55 -0500 Subject: [TR] Does Anyone Know Why? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On Mon, Jun 13, 2011 at 6:04 PM, Joe Curry wrote: > It was because the ultimately wise people in the factory knew how much the > people in gas stations love to admire our cars. So the more times you have > to stop, the more people can enjoy seeing them. Simple as that ! > And that would have given the full service station attendants more opportunities to check the fluifs? From anabil007 at comcast.net Mon Jun 13 17:41:54 2011 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2011 16:41:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 temp. gauge & capilliary tube. In-Reply-To: <4DF63516.4030109@execulink.com> References: <4DF63516.4030109@execulink.com> Message-ID: Route it Left, coil up the excess (not less than 3 inches diameter) tie wrap coil where ever it suits you ... enjoy. >Hello List: >Just getting at re-installing the temp. gauge & tube in my '2. How >important is it to follow the manual diagram on routing the tube to >the right and around the heater, then to the fire-wall hole? Seems a >much more direct path if you stay to the left and approach the >fire-wall hole that way. May need a loop in the tube to take up some >length. Any problems with deviating from the original routing? >Also, have a couple of screw clips on my tube. Just find a >convenient place on the heater rails to attach these? Must say, have >forgotten how this came out... >Thanks for any help with this. >Angelo Graham >triumphs at autox.team.net -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Mon Jun 13 18:01:38 2011 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net) Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2011 20:01:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] Does Anyone Know Why? Message-ID: <380-2201162140138284@M2W125.mail2web.com> Actually yes - It had to do with emission requirements. To accommodate the charcoal canister venting system etc, the gas tank needed a space in the top for vapors - no space really to make it bigger, but in reality, it was just cheaper to extend the neck deeper into the tank, thereby creating said space, albeit at the expense of capacity - They did the same thing with the Spitfire around the same time frame - Barry Original Message: ----------------- Subject: [TR] Does Anyone Know Why? As I was driving my TR6 to Jekyll Island for VTR last year, caravanning with a friend in a TR3 and another in a TR4, I couldn't help but wonder why TRiumph equipped it's latest model (to date) with the largest displacement engine and the heaviest chassis, and the smallest gas tank. My TR4A had a 14 gallon tank, my TR6 has an 11.25 gallon tank. Anyone? JonMac, are you out there? Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL triumphs at autox.team.net -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web.com  What can On Demand Business Solutions do for you? http://link.mail2web.com/Business/SharePoint From trglory at verizon.net Mon Jun 13 19:28:27 2011 From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito) Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2011 21:28:27 -0400 Subject: [TR] rust removers recommendations In-Reply-To: <20110613205508.3277418765B@autox.team.net> References: <20110613205508.3277418765B@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <000601cc2a32$5d0a76c0$171f6440$@net> Sorry spook, there are no list guys. There is just one poor overworked SOB behind the curtain that has his hands full right now. Which reminds me, have we all paid our annual dues to the link at the bottom of this message? Joe Laurito -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of spook01 at comcast.net Sent: Monday, June 13, 2011 4:55 PM To: Cliff Hansen; William Brewer; triumphstag at gmail.com Cc: Triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] rust removers recommendations Hi guys, I think the list has been hacked. I keep getting notes saying I am trying to change my password. Sorry, not me. Also have gotten notes saying I am trying to unsubscribe. False. Are the list guys checking this out?? Ray Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone From mlang99 at comcast.net Mon Jun 13 20:04:31 2011 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2011 19:04:31 -0700 Subject: [TR] rust removers recommendations In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4DF6C1AF.8000409@comcast.net> I have been using the electrolytic technique using washing soda and a battery charger. I cleaned up a rather rusty old TR4 head over the weekend. Do a Google search for "washing soda rust" and you will find all sorts of instructions. Mike Sujit Roy wrote: > Can anyone recommend a good liquid type rust remover? I'd like to soak some > Stag parts in a bath. There are some types where you soak them in a bath and > then wash the stuff off, I'm not looking for that type. > > Sujit From wbeech at flash.net Mon Jun 13 22:10:55 2011 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2011 22:10:55 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3A rear fendor bolt removal In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Ouch, if yours are anything like mine were you will end up ringing them off or drilling them out. After that you will pull the fender and take it to the body shop and say "Fix this" If you still have something to grab onto, try a breaker bar, or vise grips. I found that a manual lever-type action can apply more sustained torque than an impact. Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of davewillner Sent: Monday, June 13, 2011 8:36 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR3A rear fendor bolt removal Installing the fender beading and need help in finding a tool out there that makes removing the screws (inside the boot) that holds the rear fenders tight a little easier than a simple impact driver? I've soaked the nuts and my cheap impact driver and did break two free, but that's it.... Appreciate it Dave Willner Stroudsburg PA 59 TR3A 70 MGB 70 BSA 441 VS triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From triumphstag at gmail.com Mon Jun 13 23:07:26 2011 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy) Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2011 22:07:26 -0700 Subject: [TR] ways to prevent brake components seizing Message-ID: I'm cleaning some rear brake drum cylinders for a car Stag I someday plan to get back on the road. What can I apply to them to stop them rusting and the seals from going hard? They are currently off the car, but I need to put them back on the car as I want to use the hand brake to stop the car from moving In due course I will change all the seals. Sujit -- Sujit Roy, Realtor Keller Williams Realty, Cupertino, CA (408) 839-8359 roysrealty.com From tony at tonydrews.com Mon Jun 13 23:56:18 2011 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2011 00:56:18 -0500 Subject: [TR] 78 Midget drivetrain for sale...cheap Message-ID: <20110614055613.63BF5187890@autox.team.net> From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jun 14 00:45:35 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2011 23:45:35 -0700 Subject: [TR] ways to prevent brake components seizing In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <02b901cc2a5e$aa628ee0$0301a8c0@randall> > What can I apply to them to stop them > rusting and the > seals from going hard? How about some DOT 5 brake fluid? It's a good preservative, and obviously safe for braking systems. Just don't make the mistake I made many years ago, and fill them with DOT 3. I completely ruined a brand new pair of brake cylinders that way. -- Randall From tony at tonydrews.com Tue Jun 14 00:48:36 2011 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2011 01:48:36 -0500 Subject: [TR] 78 Midget drivetrain for sale cheap Message-ID: <20110614064831.88063187890@autox.team.net> Let's try this again without the apparent html content. A buddy of mine has purchased a 78 Midget with a 1500 cc engine but doesn't want the drivetrain (Engine / Trans / rear axle). It's got 57,000 miles and ran fine a month ago. Anyone interested? You can contact Jim directly at kaw1kat at mchsi.com . Thanks, Tony Drews From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Jun 14 06:04:53 2011 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2011 08:04:53 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Does Anyone Know Why? Message-ID: <570.4614179f.3b28a865@cs.com> In a message dated 6/13/2011 5:46:28 PM Central Daylight Time, emanteno at comcast.net writes: > As I was driving my TR6 to Jekyll Island for VTR last year, caravanning > with > a friend in a TR3 and another in a TR4, > I couldn't help but wonder why TRiumph equipped it's latest model (to > date) > with the largest displacement engine and the heaviest > chassis, and the smallest gas tank. My TR4A had a 14 gallon tank, my TR6 > has > an 11.25 gallon tank. > 1) More room for the golf clubs? 2) I've put 13 gal in mine once. Once. I think I coasted into the station. 3) TR6 seats are so comfortable they have to force you to get out more frequently. Not a problem in the TR3. 4) You think that's bad, try a Vitess. 5) Get a luggage rack and a jerry can. Does that about cover it? Dave From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk Tue Jun 14 08:05:33 2011 From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2011 15:05:33 +0100 (BST) Subject: [TR] Does Anyone Know Why? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <382386.16522.qm@web28307.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Anyone? JonMac, are you out there? Clearly it had something to do with emission control issues, Irv. It did initially occur to me to comment that it was the factory's way of hitting back at the States for having fuel that's far cheaper than ours - and always has been :) Just filled Mrs. M's car this morning and one US gall of (your equivalent 90 octane) is selling here at US$8.46. On reflection, think I'd rather have a smaller tank at your fuel prices - than ours, and put up with the inconvenience of getting out more often to refill :) Cheers, Jonmac From arakelianp at mossmotors.com Tue Jun 14 08:38:08 2011 From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Pete Arakelian) Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2011 07:38:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] digest catch up - recommendations Message-ID: <4D4FABA15328FC42B1AA0DEE4673548C071BA44379@DR-EX-04.datacenter.dataresolution.net> Sorry for the bomb and delay - just catching up after getting digest versions. I'll keep it short. Gasket sealer: use hylomar on just about everything except the head gasket which should use a copper coat. It does not harden and you can remove and replace gaskets. Rust remover: use something like Evapo-rust. You just soak the part, the rust comes off. Biodegradable, non-toxic - it works. Rust killer: something like Corroseal, paint it on, coverts rust to stable magnetite, and primes the surface with a paintable latex metal primer. Peter From tjwakeman at gmail.com Tue Jun 14 08:45:45 2011 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2011 07:45:45 -0700 Subject: [TR] Does Anyone Know Why? In-Reply-To: <382386.16522.qm@web28307.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> References: <382386.16522.qm@web28307.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4DF77419.2060701@gmail.com> On 6/14/11 7:05 AM, John Macartney wrote: > It did initially occur to me to comment that it > was the factory's way of hitting back at the States for having fuel that's far > cheaper than ours - and always has been > Ever consider complaining to the people who decide how much tax you pay for what? I gather that if the tax on petrol were lowered to the range of US taxes you would be paying about the same as we do in the States. Just a thought, Teriann From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jun 14 09:24:13 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2011 08:24:13 -0700 Subject: [TR] Does Anyone Know Why? In-Reply-To: <382386.16522.qm@web28307.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> References: <382386.16522.qm@web28307.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <02f001cc2aa7$1e5ce050$0301a8c0@randall> > Clearly it had something to do with > emission control issues, Irv. I'm not so sure about that, since the trend started way back in 1955, a decade before the first emissions requirements in the USA. The TR3 got bigger carbs than the TR2 (which increased fuel consumption) but the fuel tank capacity went down by a gallon. -- Randall From david.brister at wanadoo.fr Tue Jun 14 09:54:07 2011 From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister) Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2011 17:54:07 +0200 Subject: [TR] Does Anyone Know Why? In-Reply-To: <570.4614179f.3b28a865@cs.com> References: <570.4614179f.3b28a865@cs.com> Message-ID: <26F898F04EF049EAA7A3266630FEA4F7@dbristerPC> Ivan Korey writes: > My TR4A had a 14 gallon tank, my TR6 > has > an 11.25 gallon tank. I think you must have a non standard tank, or perhaps exports to the colonies were fitted with bigger tanks to help with the greater distances involved in motoring there! Certainly I have never managed to get more than 11 Imperial gallons into my car. The specs all say 11 3/4! Perhaps that is the same as 14 galls US? David Brister 1967 TR4A CTC 77785 O From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Tue Jun 14 10:02:53 2011 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2011 09:02:53 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Does Anyone Know Why? In-Reply-To: <382386.16522.qm@web28307.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> References: <382386.16522.qm@web28307.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <162634.74235.qm@web120210.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> could it be that after they fitted every thing that was needed, seats, axle hump, etc. that's all the room that was left? ________________________________ From: John Macartney To: Irv Korey ; TRiumphs Sent: Tue, June 14, 2011 7:05:33 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Does Anyone Know Why? Anyone? JonMac, are you out there? Clearly it had something to do with emission control issues, Irv. It did initially occur to me to comment that it was the factory's way of hitting back at the States for having fuel that's far cheaper than ours - and always has been :) Just filled Mrs. M's car this morning and one US gall of (your equivalent 90 octane) is selling here at US$8.46. On reflection, think I'd rather have a smaller tank at your fuel prices - than ours, and put up with the inconvenience of getting out more often to refill :) Cheers, Jonmac triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Tue Jun 14 10:46:27 2011 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2011 09:46:27 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Does Anyone Know Why? In-Reply-To: <26F898F04EF049EAA7A3266630FEA4F7@dbristerPC> References: <570.4614179f.3b28a865@cs.com> <26F898F04EF049EAA7A3266630FEA4F7@dbristerPC> Message-ID: <631604.24534.qm@web120213.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> thats about right. 11 im gals = 14 US gals ________________________________ From: David Brister To: Triumph Sent: Tue, June 14, 2011 8:54:07 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Does Anyone Know Why? Ivan Korey writes: > My TR4A had a 14 gallon tank, my TR6 > has > an 11.25 gallon tank. I think you must have a non standard tank, or perhaps exports to the colonies were fitted with bigger tanks to help with the greater distances involved in motoring there! Certainly I have never managed to get more than 11 Imperial gallons into my car. The specs all say 11 3/4! Perhaps that is the same as 14 galls US? David Brister 1967 TR4A CTC 77785 O triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From Chip19474 at aol.com Tue Jun 14 11:04:26 2011 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2011 13:04:26 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Does Anyone Know Why? Message-ID: <7199e.57d2df61.3b28ee9a@aol.com> ha, ha, ha...that's a good one, Joe......even if they don't know what the cars are because they weren't "born yet".....case in point - my wife and I were up to the lake this morning with our grandson and struck up a conversation with a man with his two children fishing. I told him that back in the mid 70's I used to catch giant bass in the evenings about 100 yards from where he was fishing but since then, development and water pollution have pretty much killed off the game fish.....he said: "oh, I wasn't born until after the mid 70's so I'll take your word for it!" Geezzz.....I sorta felt a little older after that:) Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U In a message dated 6/13/2011 7:27:38 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, spitlist at cox.net writes: It was because the ultimately wise people in the factory knew how much the people in gas stations love to admire our cars From dkspence at telus.net Tue Jun 14 12:47:54 2011 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence) Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2011 12:47:54 -0600 Subject: [TR] ] Does Anyone Know Why? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: >> Which we all know, leak at a measurable rate. > > > And that would have given the full service station attendants more > opportunities to check the fluifs? From dkspence at telus.net Tue Jun 14 12:54:50 2011 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence) Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2011 12:54:50 -0600 Subject: [TR] Does Anyone Know Why? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <62AE90E2-CB19-4345-B973-7F3B9742079D@telus.net> Yes, and then GB could share in the joys of bankruptcy like the RoC. Services (roads, bridges, snowplows etc) cost money. Taxes are the source. Dry up the source and you go without services. > > From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" > Date: June 14, 2011 8:45:45 AM MDT (CA) > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] Does Anyone Know Why? > > > On 6/14/11 7:05 AM, John Macartney wrote: >> It did initially occur to me to comment that it >> was the factory's way of hitting back at the States for having >> fuel that's far >> cheaper than ours - and always has been >> > > Ever consider complaining to the people who decide how much tax > you pay for what? I gather that if the tax on petrol were lowered > to the range of US taxes you would be paying about the same as we > do in the States. > > Just a thought, > > Teriann From agraham at execulink.com Tue Jun 14 15:37:17 2011 From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham) Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2011 17:37:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 dash control knobs. Message-ID: <4DF7D48D.6080500@execulink.com> Hello List: Before I destroy something else, asking about the dash control knobs on the various switches. How do they come off? Screw/threaded on shafts? Friction fit?: Can't see any grub screws, so thought they would screw on. Thanks for any help with this. Angelo Graham From trglory at verizon.net Tue Jun 14 16:25:50 2011 From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito) Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2011 18:25:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 dash control knobs. In-Reply-To: <4DF7D48D.6080500@execulink.com> References: <4DF7D48D.6080500@execulink.com> Message-ID: <006a01cc2ae2$043f3b10$0cbdb130$@net> Look carefully at the underside of the knob to see a metal peg in the plastic knob. Take a small drift and push that peg in. Give the knob a little pull and it will come right off the shaft. Joe Laurito -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Angelo Graham Sent: Tuesday, June 14, 2011 5:37 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR2/3 dash control knobs. Hello List: Before I destroy something else, asking about the dash control knobs on the various switches. How do they come off? Screw/threaded on shafts? Friction fit?: Can't see any grub screws, so thought they would screw on. Thanks for any help with this. Angelo Graham triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trglory at verizon.net From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jun 14 16:51:28 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2011 15:51:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 dash control knobs. In-Reply-To: <4DF7D48D.6080500@execulink.com> References: <4DF7D48D.6080500@execulink.com> Message-ID: <014801cc2ae5$9968a070$cc39e150$@rr.com> Except for the heater knob and screen washer (if you have one), they should all have a small hole on the bottom side. You push a pin punch or similar into the hole to depress the pin against a spring, and then pull the knob straight off. -- Randall From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Tue Jun 14 18:48:06 2011 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2011 17:48:06 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Does Anyone Know Why? Message-ID: <339433.77422.qm@web39401.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Subject: Does Anyone Know Why? Actually yes - It had to do with emission requirements. To accommodate the charcoal canister venting system etc,... Barry ------------ Hi List! I was going to write to have you ask Ralph Nator or Nader (How ever the jerk spelled his nane.). Because he had his hand in everything at that time. The dictator was making demands without actually doing anything. That's why Tucker was the GOOD MAN, because he 'made' & 'showed' the safety features, than just lobbing. -Cosmo Kramer From Loumetelko at aol.com Tue Jun 14 18:57:15 2011 From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com) Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2011 20:57:15 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] TR2/3 dash control knobs. Message-ID: <4180.41b6b46c.3b295d6b@aol.com> Except for the heater knob and screen washer (if you have one), they should all have a small hole on the bottom side. You push a pin punch or similar into the hole to depress the pin against a spring, and then pull the knob straight off. Angelo: Early cars had the grub screw on the bottom of the knob. What ever you do, don't drop that tiny, tiny screw! Lou Metelko Auburn, Indiana From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com Tue Jun 14 20:52:58 2011 From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly) Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2011 19:52:58 -0700 Subject: [TR] Does Anyone Know Why? In-Reply-To: <26F898F04EF049EAA7A3266630FEA4F7@dbristerPC> References: <570.4614179f.3b28a865@cs.com> <26F898F04EF049EAA7A3266630FEA4F7@dbristerPC> Message-ID: <003601cc2b07$55d9e310$018da930$@rr.com> Well, for the first time since 1971 I ran out of gas in the TR4A, on the freeway no less. My daughter came and rescued me with a gallon and one half of the cheap stuff. So as I pinged my way to the nearest AM/PM mini mart it was 5 miles of thinking to myself .. I'm never buying cheap stuff again, this stuff is crap. Long story short .. 11 and a half gallons latter, the tank was full. By my reckoning that makes it about a 12.5 gallon tank, after taking into account the lines, carb bowls, fuel pump, etc. Johnnie > > Ivan Korey writes: > > My TR4A had a 14 gallon tank, my TR6 > > has > > an 11.25 gallon tank. > > I think you must have a non standard tank, or perhaps exports to the > colonies were fitted with bigger tanks to help with the greater > distances > involved in motoring there! > Certainly I have never managed to get more than 11 Imperial gallons > into my > car. The specs all say 11 3/4! Perhaps that is the same as 14 galls US? From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com Tue Jun 14 22:33:29 2011 From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly) Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2011 21:33:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] HS6 Linkage Bracket Message-ID: <000001cc2b15$609b7490$21d25db0$@rr.com> In looking at the linkage on my HS6 setup, I find that the bracket between the carbs has a worn screw-hole for the pivot screw. This induces some slop in the accelerator travel, and I'd like to reduce that slop. Does anybody make a replacement bracket? They're not available by the big 3. Has anybody put another option into play, like a cable pull arrangement? Thank! Johnnie From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Tue Jun 14 23:24:47 2011 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Wed, 15 Jun 2011 01:24:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 dash control knobs. In-Reply-To: <4DF7D48D.6080500@execulink.com> References: <4DF7D48D.6080500@execulink.com> Message-ID: NFI- see http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MGA-MGB-1967-Plain-Dash-Knob-Map-Light-Switch -/200400622403?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ea8ced343 You can see the shape of the hole, the underside where the push/spring is accessed. As others have said - early TR2 & some 3's had screws holding them on but most replacement switches have this setup. -----Original Message----- From: Angelo Graham Hello List: Before I destroy something else, asking about the dash control knobs on the various switches. How do they come off? Screw/threaded on shafts? Friction fit?: Can't see any grub screws, so thought they would screw on. Thanks for any help with this. Angelo Graham From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jun 14 23:37:48 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2011 22:37:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] HS6 Linkage Bracket In-Reply-To: <000001cc2b15$609b7490$21d25db0$@rr.com> References: <000001cc2b15$609b7490$21d25db0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <03de01cc2b1e$5c65cb10$0301a8c0@randall> > In looking at the linkage on my HS6 setup, I find that the bracket between > the carbs has a worn screw-hole for the pivot screw. This induces some slop > in the accelerator travel, and I'd like to reduce that slop. Revington TR seems to offer the bracket, P/N 145072, 26.73 GBP. But as I understand it, the pivot screw is supposed to have a shoulder that pulls up tight against the bracket with a nut & lockwasher on the other side. If so, wear in the hole should not cause slop in the linkage. -- Randall From TRDOCTOR at aol.com Wed Jun 15 04:37:11 2011 From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com) Date: Wed, 15 Jun 2011 06:37:11 EDT Subject: [TR] HS6 Linkage Bracket Message-ID: <86e9.19779051.3b29e557@aol.com> Is it the pivot or the shoulder bolt? You could always have a machine shop drill out the pivot and bush it for you. It wouldn't take them any time and should be fairly cheap. You can also check with Joe Curto for parts. Sam Clark Green Country Triumphs In a message dated 6/15/2011 12:01:08 A.M. Central Daylight Time, pdonnel1 at san.rr.com writes: In looking at the linkage on my HS6 setup, I find that the bracket between the carbs has a worn screw-hole for the pivot screw. This induces some slop in the accelerator travel, and I'd like to reduce that slop. Does anybody make a replacement bracket? They're not available by the big 3. Has anybody put another option into play, like a cable pull arrangement? Thank! Johnnie triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trdoctor at aol.com From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Wed Jun 15 13:50:11 2011 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Wed, 15 Jun 2011 15:50:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR2 wiper gearbox and motor greases Message-ID: Any newer/better products out there for greasing the motor bushings and grease for the wheelbox? I'm quickly running out of electrical things to fix on the TR2 - the motor on the wiper was frozen - the gear box white lube was quite hard and when I took that apart - the motor would not run on it's own - Pulled it down and cleaned it up - used some semi-synthectic (whatever that is) wheel bearing grease on the front and back bushings and it spins like a champ - just don't know if that's the right grease for the long haul. Also - any recommendations on grease for the gears is welcome - I have an old tube of lubriplate but thoguht there should be something better in today's world. Also - the needle bearings on the gear - any reccomendaiton for grese type there? I figure I'm going to be sticking those pins in with a pair of tweezers.... Thanks Chris From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed Jun 15 15:21:05 2011 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 15 Jun 2011 17:21:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] Frank Fischer In-Reply-To: <86e9.19779051.3b29e557@aol.com> References: <86e9.19779051.3b29e557@aol.com> Message-ID: <1BEE9FA237F646A4B8DDE9A9C6543977@DellLaptop> Looking for Frank Fischer to contact me off list. Someone in 6-Pack is trying to reach you at your AOL address and I know you're using another address more and more. Thanks Bob Danielson From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Wed Jun 15 17:57:15 2011 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Wed, 15 Jun 2011 16:57:15 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Triumph Open Book Message-ID: <863191.54078.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Where did Triumph come up with the "open book" symbol as used on the front emblems on the TR2-4? What is the significance? -Bill in Tehachapi From McGaheyRx at aol.com Wed Jun 15 18:50:50 2011 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (Jack McGahey) Date: Wed, 15 Jun 2011 20:50:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumph Open Book In-Reply-To: <863191.54078.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <863191.54078.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: It's not an open book - it's Griffin wings Sent from my iPhone On Jun 15, 2011, at 7:57 PM, William Brewer wrote: > Where did Triumph come up with the "open book" symbol as used on the front emblems on the TR2-4? What is the significance? > > -Bill in Tehachapi > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mcgaheyrx at aol.com From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk Thu Jun 16 05:25:13 2011 From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2011 12:25:13 +0100 (BST) Subject: [TR] Triumph Open Book In-Reply-To: References: <863191.54078.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <891942.38836.qm@web28313.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> The logo itself first appeared in the late 1940's on the Standard Vanguard saloon. Opinion seems to be divided on what it actually represents but I recall it being referred to at the factory as the *Standard Shell" design. I've heard it referred to as Griffon's Wings as well, but Vauxhall (General Motors) have used a Griffon on its logo for decades and I can't see how the Standard design applies to the Vauxhall bird. Rolls Royce also had a sort of logo for the Griffon engine which was a development of the Merlin V12. Maybe one is upside down and the person who drew it up in the first place had had a good day (or night) with some marijuana or was *high* on some other narcotic? Jonmac From: Jack McGahey To: William Brewer Cc: Triumphs Sent: Thursday, 16 June 2011, 1:50 Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph Open Book It's not an open book - it's Griffin wings Sent from my iPhone On Jun 15, 2011, at 7:57 PM, William Brewer wrote: > Where did Triumph come up with the "open book" symbol as used on the front emblems on the TR2-4? What is the significance? > > -Bill in Tehachapi > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/mcgaheyrx at aol.com triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Thu Jun 16 06:15:33 2011 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2011 08:15:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR2 wiper motor refurb Part 1 Message-ID: Finshed the refurb last night. Thanks for the input on greases. I ended up cracking open a new tin of synthetic wheel bearing grease and using that. Teardown was interesting. Things were pretty messy and really caked up with hard white-yellow grease. Hard dark brown grease caked around the cable slider part. I didn't know how it went together so I wasn't about to pry on the gears. - I did not know if they were plastic or metal - they are metal (at least this one is.) Under more gunk and the remains of a mouse nest - I found a little metal door on the bottom and removed teh access screw. Two shafts for the gears were there. One secured with a circlip and one not. The straight cut gear did not have the circlip. I used an automatic center punch on the center of the shaft to gingerly pop that gear out. I found out later that the spiral gear did not need to be disassembled to remove - but I still think it was a good idea as in my case things were pretty jammed up. I removed the circlip and washers and saw what I thought was an open ball bearing - it's actually needle bearings. Dabbed a bit of grease on the washer and stuck it back on - grease holding the washer in place and the roller bearings. I figured - I better rotate the motor while extracting the bevel and used some needle nose to rotate the motor after each tap with the center punch. In hindsight - I should have just removed the back casing from the motor and separated teh motor from the gear box by rotating the motor out of the gear. (that's how I reassembled it) Any way - the gear was successfully removed without damage to either gear. There are two needle bearing sets on that shaft - one came out with the shaft and the other remained firmly in the case - which is why having the circlip off was a good idea for me. From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Thu Jun 16 06:23:50 2011 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2011 08:23:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR2 wiper motor refurb part 2 Message-ID: Routine clean up - managed to drop one set of the needle bearings and got to spend 20 minutes on my hands and knees.... removed the insulation from the field wires and replaced with shrink wrap. Removed the brushes and holders - brushes are still about 3/8 inch long so I think they will last a while longer. Pulled the armature and cleaned up the interior of the motor - cleaned the bushings for each end of the motor and dabbed wheel bearing grease in each hole and just a finger coat on the shaft - wanted little or no excess. and greasing the motor shaft allows the grease to push out of the hole vs - extuding in - (I was paranoid and pulled it apart to check). Motor back together, took it to the car and fired it up - ran nice and quiet. Reassembly of the gear train was easy - I assembled the sprial gear and bearings as a unit - liberal use of wheel bearing grease and inserted each needle by hand - I tried to use tweezers but found my pointy fingers worked better. I filled the gearbox case with grease and pushed the gear/bearing assembly home. I then mated the motor to the gearbox - since I had fully assembled the motor - I ended up spinning the gear onto the shaft - worked fine. More grease packing and then inseted the straight cut gear. A few more screws and complete. No self park on this one - easy. Now - how do I go about packing grease into the wiper cable? Chris From yellowtr at adelphia.net Thu Jun 16 07:22:49 2011 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2011 09:22:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR2 wiper motor refurb part 2 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <201106160922.50559.yellowtr@adelphia.net> > Now - how do I go about packing grease into the wiper cable? > Chris, The only way I know is to remove the assembly, grease the cable and re- assemble. Bob From auprichard at uprichard.net Thu Jun 16 07:38:50 2011 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2011 09:38:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] BAck again - and with a question In-Reply-To: <092d01cc277a$3d28f710$0301a8c0@randall> References: <2274c.57f5e1a3.3b236045@cs.com> <092d01cc277a$3d28f710$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <1E4612B7A89C483DB73D6A1D25D9A2CC@DCH6RFC1> I THINK I have it solved- although I'll have to wait for another day in the 90s to be sure. Again - thanks to all who contributed. And to answer Randall's questions, the shield is between carbs and exhaust and the mixture was set with the engine warm, but not on a particularly hot day. After going through all the suggestions, I pulled the domes with the car hot and noticed some fuel trickling into the forward SU. Turns out I had a bad float needle valve and seat. My guess is the car could compensate most of the time, but, as Randall suggested, high underhood temperatures exacerbated the problem and caused the car to flood. John Macartney also hit the nail on the head. Oh, and while I was at it, I installed an electric pump as the old one (an original) was well worn. Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Friday, June 10, 2011 10:25 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] BAck again - and with a question > I thought vapor lock was starvation due to the fact that the > fuel pump can't pump vapor. Me too. But lots of folks confuse percolation (fuel boiling in the carbs) with vapor lock, and it has become a common problem due to the witch's brew they sell for gasoline these days. And even just high underhood temperatures can cause mixture problems, especially if your mixture is already on the rich side. Tell us more about the heat shield. Is it between the carbs & exhaust? Did you set the mixture on a hot day? -- Randall triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Thu Jun 16 08:51:09 2011 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2011 07:51:09 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Triumph Open Book In-Reply-To: <863191.54078.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <863191.54078.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <917457.8543.qm@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Bill my understanding is that its the record book. racing accomplishments. Frank ________________________________ From: William Brewer To: Triumphs Sent: Wed, June 15, 2011 4:57:15 PM Subject: [TR] Triumph Open Book Where did Triumph come up with the "open book" symbol as used on the front emblems on the TR2-4? What is the significance? -Bill in Tehachapi triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Thu Jun 16 09:54:29 2011 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2011 08:54:29 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] California TR3A Sighting Message-ID: <113958.5396.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Last weekend while I was returning from a boy scout packing trip at Sespi Creek driving on highway 33 between Ojai and Ventucopa I saw a BRG TR3A with a tan interior and tan padding on the roll bar thunder by going south. Was that anyone on the list? Bill in Tehachapi From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Thu Jun 16 10:12:25 2011 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2011 09:12:25 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] California TR3A Sighting In-Reply-To: <113958.5396.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <113958.5396.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <979118.86033.qm@web120214.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> was always meaning to ask the same question of a similar car. red TR3 heading south from Bonneville at last years speed week. Lister? Frank ________________________________ From: William Brewer To: Triumphs Sent: Thu, June 16, 2011 8:54:29 AM Subject: [TR] California TR3A Sighting Last weekend while I was returning from a boy scout packing trip at Sespi Creek driving on highway 33 between Ojai and Ventucopa I saw a BRG TR3A with a tan interior and tan padding on the roll bar thunder by going south. Was that anyone on the list? Bill in Tehachapi triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From jimmuller at rcn.com Thu Jun 16 10:19:06 2011 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2011 12:19:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumph Open Book In-Reply-To: <917457.8543.qm@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <863191.54078.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4DF9F4BA.12395.3281DDE@localhost> On 16 Jun 2011 at 7:51, Frank Fisher wrote: > my understanding is that its the record book. racing accomplishments. Or service records? :-) -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From McGaheyRx at aol.com Thu Jun 16 10:32:25 2011 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2011 12:32:25 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Triumph Open Book Message-ID: <2bb10.163fafba.3b2b8a19@aol.com> In a message dated 6/16/2011 11:09:53 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, yellowtr3 at yahoo.com writes: my understanding is that its the record book. racing accomplishments. I like it! But.....what racing accomplishments did Standard Triumph have when the emblem first appeared on the Standard 8 in 1945? Cheers, Jack Mc From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Thu Jun 16 10:47:36 2011 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2011 09:47:36 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Triumph Open Book In-Reply-To: <2bb10.163fafba.3b2b8a19@aol.com> References: <2bb10.163fafba.3b2b8a19@aol.com> Message-ID: <967518.18882.qm@web120210.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> it was a design from sales and marketing. they never tell the truth!! ;-) Frank ________________________________ From: "McGaheyRx at aol.com" To: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com; wsb1960tr3a at att.net Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, June 16, 2011 9:32:25 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph Open Book In a message dated 6/16/2011 11:09:53 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, yellowtr3 at yahoo.com writes: my understanding is that its the record book. racing accomplishments. I like it! But.....what racing accomplishments did Standard Triumph have when the emblem first appeared on the Standard 8 in 1945? Cheers, Jack Mc From tjwakeman at gmail.com Thu Jun 16 10:59:22 2011 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2011 09:59:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] California TR3A Sighting In-Reply-To: <979118.86033.qm@web120214.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <113958.5396.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <979118.86033.qm@web120214.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4DFA366A.6050902@gmail.com> What and no one saw a stealth red TR3 with hard top making its way towards Monterey from Needles a week ago Wednesday? Then probably no one will see it making a trip from Santa Cruz to Flagstaff Friday either. Teriann From spitlist at cox.net Thu Jun 16 11:22:12 2011 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2011 10:22:12 -0700 Subject: [TR] California TR3A Sighting In-Reply-To: <4DFA366A.6050902@gmail.com> References: <113958.5396.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com><979118.86033.qm@web120214.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <4DFA366A.6050902@gmail.com> Message-ID: <38FB236794454C5D91C4C6C6CEE90FD9@Vista> Stealth TR3, Terriann! -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TeriAnn J. Wakeman Sent: Thursday, June 16, 2011 9:59 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] California TR3A Sighting What and no one saw a stealth red TR3 with hard top making its way towards Monterey from Needles a week ago Wednesday? Then probably no one will see it making a trip from Santa Cruz to Flagstaff Friday either. Teriann triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net From guy at genfiniti.com Thu Jun 16 13:15:22 2011 From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins) Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2011 14:15:22 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4A - Windshield Wiper Motor & Horn Issues Message-ID: <4821220F-3943-4CDC-ABC0-EBD57601B533@genfiniti.com> All, Hope everyone is doing well. I spent some time last weekend wrapping up the testing of the electric components that are effective without the engine actually running. Most look great, and I am well pleased. However, two of the items I wasn't able to work out in the time allowed, and any help would be appreciated. Windshield Wiper Motor In the past I have posted some questions/comments about the wiper motor. I removed it from the car long ago and overhauled on my workbench. I attempted to bench test, but could never get it to run. Well, once it was installed in the car and activated, it ran like a top! In fact, it runs too well. It is a single-speed Lucas DR3A motor. (At one point I believed it to be double speed.) When I turn the key to the "on" position the motor comes on, just like its supposed to. However, it is supposed to cut off once it hits the parking position, and does not, it just keeps running. >From everything I know, this indicates that the circuit remains grounded. I even removed the parking plate and tried it again, and got the same results. I tried pulling the double-speed switch to all positions, and it has no affect. (For some reason I have a single-speed motor and a double-speed switch). Things are wired thusly: Motor Green power wire on terminal "2" Wire from switch on terminal "1" Ground from terminal "E" Switch Wire to motor on terminal "5/6" Ground on terminal "3/4" Horn I'm not really sure how this is supposed to work, but I have a hunch. The copper plate behind the steering wheel is always hot. (I know this because I have a full 12V on the plate when the key is off.) So, I add the steering wheel, then the three pronged thingy, then the spring rod thingy, then the button, making sure the spring rod contacts the bar on the back of the button. I push down on the button and get nothing. My thought is that pushing on the button is supposed to create a ground, thus completing the circuit. But to what? By pushing the button, power will flow from the charged plate, through the spring rod, to the button's plate to what? What is there to ground against? Can anyone offer any advice on these before I spend hours troubleshooting them? As always, I thank you in advance. From hdrider570 at att.net Thu Jun 16 14:45:45 2011 From: hdrider570 at att.net (Q) Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2011 13:45:45 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Ref:triumph open book Logo Message-ID: <749013.66395.qm@web83804.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Compliments of TeriAnn's web site Actually, it was never an open book, but believe it or not, the Standard-Triumph shield was a stylised representation of the truncated wings of the Wyvern of Mercia. A Wyvern being the mythical two-legged Dragon that ruled the ancient Albion Kingdom of Mercia in Middle England with Coventry as it's capital. (The Wyvern also appears on the door badge of all the Police cars in the Warwickshire Constabulary) This was imparted to me many years ago by Brian Blackwell, the then historian of the Standard Motor Club who was a very knowledgable if slightly eccentric individual and owner of an Edwardian Standard Motor car! Hope that information is of interest. Regards Lion F Guyot From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Thu Jun 16 14:47:22 2011 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2011 13:47:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] California TR3A Sighting In-Reply-To: <38FB236794454C5D91C4C6C6CEE90FD9@Vista> References: <113958.5396.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <979118.86033.qm@web120214.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <4DFA366A.6050902@gmail.com> <38FB236794454C5D91C4C6C6CEE90FD9@Vista> Message-ID: On Thu, Jun 16, 2011 at 10:22 AM, Joe Curry wrote: > Stealth TR3, Terriann! The original Stealth TR3: http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/StealthTR3A.jpg From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Thu Jun 16 15:20:21 2011 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2011 14:20:21 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Shaking TR3 Message-ID: <848522.19572.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> So the entire time I have driven my TR3A (19 years) I have been trying to get it to ride smoother, especially in the front end. It is very smooth to about 45 mph and then it gets shaking and wobbly from 45 to about 60 or so and then smooths out again. The car has been a rolling restoration and things have been changed out and upgraded continually. It has new rear springs with solid bushings, new wheels and balanced tires from British Wire Wheel, R&P steering, new trunnions, shocks, urethane upper A-arm bushings, new upper A-arm mounts, ball joints, new lower bushings, alignment, more wheel balancing, steering column bushings. Nothing has proven to be the silver bullet. The only thing I haven't changed out or checked recently is the wheel bearings themselves or maybe the shocks and shock bushings (although they look fine to me). I am thinking of putting a dial indicator on the wheel hub and wheels to measure runout. I may check the rear wheel alignment, but I bet there is nothing wrong with it. ISTR some Australian website where the guy made a welded steel frame to reinforce the firewall to minimize cowl flex. That seems a little extreme and unnecessary. I can't imagine that they rode this rough when new. Back in the 50's with the American land yacht cars rolling down the road it seems like people would have expected a smoother ride out of a new Triumph. Among other things, I do flight test data acquisition systems. I've been crazy enough that I have thought about setting up a labjack system (http://labjack.com) to measure acceleration, but the accelerometers are too expensive (the cheapest are about $500 apiece). Maybe I can borrow some from work... Any other ideas? I may borrow another TR3 that was recently ground-up restored to see if it rides better. ISTR threads on this in the past. -Bill in Tehachapi From tr4zest at gmail.com Thu Jun 16 15:53:57 2011 From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones) Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2011 17:53:57 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumph Open Book Message-ID: Jonmac: I read somewhere (or dreamt, lol) it represented the radiator on a Triumph: the Roadster perhaps? ---- ---- The logo itself first appeared in the late 1940's on the Standard Vanguard saloon. Opinion seems to be divided on what it actually represents but I recall it being referred to at the factory as the *Standard Shell" design. I've heard it referred to as Griffon's Wings as well, but Vauxhall (General Motors) have used a Griffon on its logo for decades and I can't see how the Standard design applies to the Vauxhall bird. Rolls Royce also had a sort of logo for the Griffon engine which was a development of the Merlin V12. Maybe one is upside down and the person who drew it up in the first place had had a good day (or night) with some marijuana or was *high* on some other narcotic? Jonmac From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Thu Jun 16 15:59:48 2011 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2011 17:59:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] Shaking TR3 In-Reply-To: <848522.19572.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <848522.19572.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: > Any other ideas? Have your propshaft checked for straightness and balance. John H. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jun 16 16:00:11 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2011 15:00:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4A - Windshield Wiper Motor & Horn Issues In-Reply-To: <4821220F-3943-4CDC-ABC0-EBD57601B533@genfiniti.com> References: <4821220F-3943-4CDC-ABC0-EBD57601B533@genfiniti.com> Message-ID: <018801cc2c70$c42462e0$4c6d28a0$@rr.com> > However, it is supposed to cut off once it hits the parking position, > and does > not, it just keeps running. Try removing the wire from motor terminal 1, then turn the key on again. If it still runs continuously, you must have a short in the internal wire to the park switch. Not unusual for the insulation to crack and allow a short where it passes through the motor housing. If removing the wire stops the motor, reconnect it and try disconnecting at the switch. If the results are any different, the wire itself is shorted somewhere. If not, then the switch doesn't match what I think you have. Use an ohmmeter or powered test light to find a pair of terminals that are only connected when the switch is "on". I'm not too familiar with the TR4/A steering column, but I believe the contact is supposed to ground the ring to the steering shaft itself. There should be a small braided jumper at the rubber flex joint, and then a ground wire directly to the steering rack that complete the circuit. -- Randall From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Thu Jun 16 16:01:26 2011 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2011 15:01:26 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Shaking TR3 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <251848.10687.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Thanks John, I've already done that too. I ended up buying a new prop shaft from MOSS as well. -Bill in Tehachapi --- On Thu, 6/16/11, John Herrera wrote: From: John Herrera Subject: RE: [TR] Shaking TR3 To: wsb1960tr3a at att.net, "Triumph List" Date: Thursday, June 16, 2011, 2:59 PM > Any other ideas? Have your propshaft checked for straightness and balance. John H. From terryrs at comcast.net Thu Jun 16 16:04:43 2011 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2011 22:04:43 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Shaking TR3 In-Reply-To: <848522.19572.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1909213311.2224422.1308261883608.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> >It is very smooth to about 45 mph and then it gets shaking and wobbly from 45 to about 60 or so and >then smooths out again. Ensconced in the bliss of engineering ignorance, I'm wondering if the drive shaft might be out of balance, or a bad u-joint, that makes it seem like a front end wobble? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire (BTW, If you actually have a TR3A sighting that is more than a blur of color, stock or not, they're driving too slow!) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jun 16 16:09:19 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2011 15:09:19 -0700 Subject: [TR] Shaking TR3 In-Reply-To: <848522.19572.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <848522.19572.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <018f01cc2c72$0a99d790$1fcd86b0$@rr.com> You should be able to find accelerometers much cheaper than $500! We buy a module that includes a 3-axis accelerometer and a DSP, and I think it's only about $30 in quantity. A quick Google turned up a sensor mounted on a PC board for $30, and an assembled packaged unit with display, etc for $100. http://www.amazon.com/T-Matrix-3-Axis-Performance-Accelerometer/dp/B000KZRE5 E I've been fighting somewhat the same problem with my TR3, except the vibration also comes back at higher speeds. So far, I have found brand new brake rotors that were significantly out of balance out of the box, and hubs that did not run true. http://tinyurl.com/3eql5af I hope my "magic bullet" will be an on-the-car wheel balancer that I bought, but haven't had time to try out yet. -- Randall From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Thu Jun 16 16:20:44 2011 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2011 18:20:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] Shaking TR3 References: <848522.19572.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1CCFACA9E8A5407CABEAADFFD02E9667@userb38463fba5> At the end of the day I think that you'll find that it's the wire wheels. Can you find someone who does on the car balancing? That may improve things a bit. I'd also suggest trying a set of solid wheels and tires. I must caution however that you don't get much stud and bolt engagement (thread length) doing that and then driving up to 60mph is risky. That and you don't know how well they are balance either but if you noticed a change it could steer you in the right direction. I changed from wires to Panasports on my 4A and 29 years of vibration and shaking disappeared. My wire were old however but they were maintained. JVV ----- Original Message ----- From: "William Brewer" To: "Triumphs" Sent: Thursday, June 16, 2011 5:20 PM Subject: [TR] Shaking TR3 > So the entire time I have driven my TR3A (19 years) I have been trying > to > get it to ride smoother, especially in the front end. It is very smooth to > about 45 mph and then it gets shaking and wobbly from 45 to about 60 or so > and > then smooths out again. The car has been a rolling restoration and things > have > been changed out and upgraded continually. It has new rear springs with > solid > bushings, new wheels and balanced tires from British Wire Wheel, R&P > steering, > new trunnions, shocks, urethane upper A-arm bushings, new upper A-arm > mounts, > ball joints, new lower bushings, alignment, more wheel balancing, steering > column bushings. Nothing has proven to be the silver bullet. The only > thing I > haven't changed out or checked recently is the wheel bearings themselves > or > maybe the shocks and shock bushings (although they look fine to me). I am > thinking of putting a dial indicator on the wheel hub and wheels to > measure > runout. I may check the rear wheel > alignment, but I bet there is > nothing wrong with it. > ISTR some > Australian website where the guy made a welded steel frame to reinforce > the > firewall to minimize cowl flex. That seems a little extreme and > unnecessary. > > I can't imagine that they rode this rough when new. Back in the 50's > with > the American land yacht cars rolling down the road it seems like people > would > have expected a smoother ride out of a new Triumph. > Among other things, > I do flight test data acquisition systems. I've been crazy enough that I > have > thought about setting up a labjack system (http://labjack.com) to measure > acceleration, but the accelerometers are too expensive (the cheapest are > about $500 apiece). Maybe I can borrow some from work... > Any other ideas? > I may borrow another TR3 that was recently ground-up restored to see if it > rides better. > ISTR threads on this in the past. > > -Bill in > Tehachapi From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Thu Jun 16 16:24:47 2011 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2011 18:24:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] California TR3A Sighting References: <113958.5396.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com><979118.86033.qm@web120214.mail.ne1.yahoo.com><4DFA366A.6050902@gmail.com> <38FB236794454C5D91C4C6C6CEE90FD9@Vista> Message-ID: <8B1A0A00E0FB41AA93C663A926C5CAB8@userb38463fba5> Looks like Tom Householder in the lower right corner of the photo. Was this his creation at some point? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Geo Hahn" To: "Triumphs" Sent: Thursday, June 16, 2011 4:47 PM Subject: Re: [TR] California TR3A Sighting > On Thu, Jun 16, 2011 at 10:22 AM, Joe Curry wrote: > >> Stealth TR3, Terriann! > > > > The original Stealth TR3: > > http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc499/Ahwahnee18/StealthTR3A.jpg > triumphs at autox.team.net From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jun 16 16:51:09 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2011 15:51:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] Shaking TR3 In-Reply-To: <251848.10687.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <251848.10687.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <019d01cc2c77$e2ad99a0$a808cce0$@rr.com> > I ended up buying a new prop shaft > from MOSS as well. Did you have it checked? -- Randall From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Thu Jun 16 17:30:37 2011 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2011 16:30:37 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Shaking TR3 In-Reply-To: <1909213311.2224422.1308261883608.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <48501.66026.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I've got a new driveshaft & U-joints. That should be it. -Bill in Tehachapi --- On Thu, 6/16/11, terryrs at comcast.net wrote: > From: terryrs at comcast.net > Subject: Re: [TR] Shaking TR3 > To: "William Brewer" > Cc: "Triumphs" > Date: Thursday, June 16, 2011, 3:04 PM > >It is very smooth to about 45 mph > and then it gets shaking and wobbly from 45 to about 60 or > so and > >then smooths out again. > > Ensconced in the bliss of engineering ignorance, I'm > wondering if the drive shaft might be out of balance, or a > bad u-joint, that makes it seem like a front end wobble? > > Terry Smith, '59 TR3A > New Hampshire (BTW, If you actually have a TR3A > sighting that is more than a blur of color, stock or not, > they're driving too slow!) From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Thu Jun 16 17:37:32 2011 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2011 16:37:32 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Shaking TR3 In-Reply-To: <1CCFACA9E8A5407CABEAADFFD02E9667@userb38463fba5> Message-ID: <399722.18079.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I ran original factory steel wheels for about 15 years. I had the wheels checked for true-ness and they were straight. I bought the polished stainless steel 60 spoke Daytons and had new Vredesteins mounted at British Wire Wheel with new splined hubs. I hang out the side of the car to check the wheels sometimes while driving and they appear true. Maybe I should have got Panasports or Minilite replicas instead. -Bill in Tehachapi --- On Thu, 6/16/11, Jerry Van Vlack wrote: > From: Jerry Van Vlack > Subject: Re: [TR] Shaking TR3 > To: "William Brewer" , "Triumphs" > Date: Thursday, June 16, 2011, 3:20 PM > At the end of the day I think that > you'll find that it's the wire wheels. Can you find someone > who does on the car balancing? That may improve things a > bit. I'd also suggest trying a set of solid wheels and > tires. I must caution however that you don't get much stud > and bolt engagement (thread length) doing that and then > driving up to 60mph is risky. That and you don't know how > well they are balance either but if you noticed a change it > could steer you in the right direction. > > I changed from wires to Panasports on my 4A and 29 years of > vibration and shaking disappeared. My wire were old however > but they were maintained. > > JVV > ----- Original Message ----- From: "William Brewer" > To: "Triumphs" > Sent: Thursday, June 16, 2011 5:20 PM > Subject: [TR] Shaking TR3 > > > > So the entire time I have > driven my TR3A (19 years) I have been trying to > > get it to ride smoother, especially in the front end. > It is very smooth to > > about 45 mph and then it gets shaking and wobbly from > 45 to about 60 or so and > > then smooths out again. The car has been a rolling > restoration and things have > > been changed out and upgraded continually. It has new > rear springs with solid > > bushings, new wheels and balanced tires from British > Wire Wheel, R&P steering, > > new trunnions, shocks, urethane upper A-arm bushings, > new upper A-arm mounts, > > ball joints, new lower bushings, alignment, more wheel > balancing, steering > > column bushings. Nothing has proven to be the silver > bullet. The only thing I > > haven't changed out or checked recently is the wheel > bearings themselves or > > maybe the shocks and shock bushings (although they > look fine to me). I am > > thinking of putting a dial indicator on the wheel hub > and wheels to measure > > runout. I may check the rear wheel > > alignment, but I bet there is > > nothing wrong with it. > > ISTR some > > Australian website where the guy made a welded steel > frame to reinforce the > > firewall to minimize cowl flex. That seems a little > extreme and unnecessary. > > > > I can't imagine that they rode this > rough when new. Back in the 50's with > > the American land yacht cars rolling down the road it > seems like people would > > have expected a smoother ride out of a new Triumph. > > Among other things, > > I do flight test data acquisition systems. I've been > crazy enough that I have > > thought about setting up a labjack system (http://labjack.com) to measure > > acceleration, but the accelerometers are too > expensive (the cheapest are > > about $500 apiece). Maybe I can borrow some from > work... > > Any other ideas? > > I may borrow another TR3 that was recently ground-up > restored to see if it > > rides better. > > ISTR threads on this in the > past. > > > > -Bill in > > Tehachapi From ambritts at bellsouth.net Thu Jun 16 17:42:47 2011 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2011 19:42:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] Shaking TR3 In-Reply-To: <848522.19572.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <848522.19572.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Bill, I'll bet you a beer it's the hub's. I'll almost guarantee it! Pull the wheel and put a straight edge on edge against the face of the hub and see if you have any rock. You can then measure the run out. Solved my problem on myTR3 and TR6 and probably at least a dozen others. Alex Manzo ----- Original Message ----- From: "William Brewer" To: "Triumphs" Sent: Thursday, June 16, 2011 5:20 PM Subject: [TR] Shaking TR3 > So the entire time I have driven my TR3A (19 years) I have been trying > to > get it to ride smoother, especially in the front end. It is very smooth to > about 45 mph and then it gets shaking and wobbly from 45 to about 60 or so > and > then smooths out again. The car has been a rolling restoration and things > have > been changed out and upgraded continually. It has new rear springs with > solid > bushings, new wheels and balanced tires from British Wire Wheel, R&P > steering, > new trunnions, shocks, urethane upper A-arm bushings, new upper A-arm > mounts, > ball joints, new lower bushings, alignment, more wheel balancing, steering > column bushings. Nothing has proven to be the silver bullet. The only > thing I > haven't changed out or checked recently is the wheel bearings themselves > or > maybe the shocks and shock bushings (although they look fine to me). I am > thinking of putting a dial indicator on the wheel hub and wheels to > measure > runout. I may check the rear wheel > alignment, but I bet there is > nothing wrong with it. > ISTR some > Australian website where the guy made a welded steel frame to reinforce > the > firewall to minimize cowl flex. That seems a little extreme and > unnecessary. > > I can't imagine that they rode this rough when new. Back in the 50's > with > the American land yacht cars rolling down the road it seems like people > would > have expected a smoother ride out of a new Triumph. > Among other things, > I do flight test data acquisition systems. I've been crazy enough that I > have > thought about setting up a labjack system (http://labjack.com) to measure > acceleration, but the accelerometers are too expensive (the cheapest are > about $500 apiece). Maybe I can borrow some from work... > Any other ideas? > I may borrow another TR3 that was recently ground-up restored to see if it > rides better. > ISTR threads on this in the past. > > -Bill in > Tehachapi From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Thu Jun 16 18:25:43 2011 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2011 17:25:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] California TR3A Sighting In-Reply-To: <8B1A0A00E0FB41AA93C663A926C5CAB8@userb38463fba5> References: <113958.5396.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <979118.86033.qm@web120214.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <4DFA366A.6050902@gmail.com> <38FB236794454C5D91C4C6C6CEE90FD9@Vista> <8B1A0A00E0FB41AA93C663A926C5CAB8@userb38463fba5> Message-ID: On Thu, Jun 16, 2011 at 3:24 PM, Jerry Van Vlack wrote: > Looks like Tom Householder in the lower right corner of the photo. Was this > his creation at some point? As I recall, the work of Bruce Clough (standing behind it & wearing the headset). From wbeech at flash.net Thu Jun 16 19:21:31 2011 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2011 19:21:31 -0600 Subject: [TR] Shaking TR3 In-Reply-To: <1CCFACA9E8A5407CABEAADFFD02E9667@userb38463fba5> References: <848522.19572.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <1CCFACA9E8A5407CABEAADFFD02E9667@userb38463fba5> Message-ID: I had a similar issue with my wires, I swapped them around between positions and on about the 3rd try the vibration all but disappeared. Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jerry Van Vlack Sent: Thursday, June 16, 2011 4:21 PM To: William Brewer; Triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] Shaking TR3 At the end of the day I think that you'll find that it's the wire wheels. Can you find someone who does on the car balancing? That may improve things a bit. I'd also suggest trying a set of solid wheels and tires. I must caution however that you don't get much stud and bolt engagement (thread length) doing that and then driving up to 60mph is risky. That and you don't know how well they are balance either but if you noticed a change it could steer you in the right direction. I changed from wires to Panasports on my 4A and 29 years of vibration and shaking disappeared. My wire were old however but they were maintained. JVV ----- Original Message ----- From: "William Brewer" To: "Triumphs" Sent: Thursday, June 16, 2011 5:20 PM Subject: [TR] Shaking TR3 > So the entire time I have driven my TR3A (19 years) I have been trying > to > get it to ride smoother, especially in the front end. It is very smooth to > about 45 mph and then it gets shaking and wobbly from 45 to about 60 or so > and > then smooths out again. The car has been a rolling restoration and things > have > been changed out and upgraded continually. It has new rear springs with > solid > bushings, new wheels and balanced tires from British Wire Wheel, R&P > steering, > new trunnions, shocks, urethane upper A-arm bushings, new upper A-arm > mounts, > ball joints, new lower bushings, alignment, more wheel balancing, steering > column bushings. Nothing has proven to be the silver bullet. The only > thing I > haven't changed out or checked recently is the wheel bearings themselves > or > maybe the shocks and shock bushings (although they look fine to me). I am > thinking of putting a dial indicator on the wheel hub and wheels to > measure > runout. I may check the rear wheel > alignment, but I bet there is > nothing wrong with it. > ISTR some > Australian website where the guy made a welded steel frame to reinforce > the > firewall to minimize cowl flex. That seems a little extreme and > unnecessary. > > I can't imagine that they rode this rough when new. Back in the 50's > with > the American land yacht cars rolling down the road it seems like people > would > have expected a smoother ride out of a new Triumph. > Among other things, > I do flight test data acquisition systems. I've been crazy enough that I > have > thought about setting up a labjack system (http://labjack.com) to measure > acceleration, but the accelerometers are too expensive (the cheapest are > about $500 apiece). Maybe I can borrow some from work... > Any other ideas? > I may borrow another TR3 that was recently ground-up restored to see if it > rides better. > ISTR threads on this in the past. > > -Bill in > Tehachapi triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From jimmuller at rcn.com Thu Jun 16 19:26:43 2011 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2011 21:26:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 sighting Message-ID: <4DFA7513.25085.51D7909@localhost> Beautiful red smallmouth TR3, running top-down. In Attleboro, MA this morning. And again this afternoon. Any of you? (I was the guy leaving the train station on my bicycle.) -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Thu Jun 16 19:34:51 2011 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2011 21:34:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] Shaking TR3 References: <399722.18079.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <87192C9DD3304B9092523CF0DBD8AECE@userb38463fba5> Well you have certainly taken all of the correct precautions but I stand by my original thought. It's the wire wheels. JVV ----- Original Message ----- From: "William Brewer" To: "Triumphs" ; "Jerry Van Vlack" Sent: Thursday, June 16, 2011 7:37 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Shaking TR3 I ran original factory steel wheels for about 15 years. I had the wheels checked for true-ness and they were straight. I bought the polished stainless steel 60 spoke Daytons and had new Vredesteins mounted at British Wire Wheel with new splined hubs. I hang out the side of the car to check the wheels sometimes while driving and they appear true. Maybe I should have got Panasports or Minilite replicas instead. -Bill in Tehachapi --- On Thu, 6/16/11, Jerry Van Vlack wrote: > From: Jerry Van Vlack > Subject: Re: [TR] Shaking TR3 > To: "William Brewer" , "Triumphs" > > Date: Thursday, June 16, 2011, 3:20 PM > At the end of the day I think that > you'll find that it's the wire wheels. Can you find someone > who does on the car balancing? That may improve things a > bit. I'd also suggest trying a set of solid wheels and > tires. I must caution however that you don't get much stud > and bolt engagement (thread length) doing that and then > driving up to 60mph is risky. That and you don't know how > well they are balance either but if you noticed a change it > could steer you in the right direction. > > I changed from wires to Panasports on my 4A and 29 years of > vibration and shaking disappeared. My wire were old however > but they were maintained. > > JVV > ----- Original Message ----- From: "William Brewer" > To: "Triumphs" > Sent: Thursday, June 16, 2011 5:20 PM > Subject: [TR] Shaking TR3 > > > > So the entire time I have > driven my TR3A (19 years) I have been trying to > > get it to ride smoother, especially in the front end. > It is very smooth to > > about 45 mph and then it gets shaking and wobbly from > 45 to about 60 or so and > > then smooths out again. The car has been a rolling > restoration and things have > > been changed out and upgraded continually. It has new > rear springs with solid > > bushings, new wheels and balanced tires from British > Wire Wheel, R&P steering, > > new trunnions, shocks, urethane upper A-arm bushings, > new upper A-arm mounts, > > ball joints, new lower bushings, alignment, more wheel > balancing, steering > > column bushings. Nothing has proven to be the silver > bullet. The only thing I > > haven't changed out or checked recently is the wheel > bearings themselves or > > maybe the shocks and shock bushings (although they > look fine to me). I am > > thinking of putting a dial indicator on the wheel hub > and wheels to measure > > runout. I may check the rear wheel > > alignment, but I bet there is > > nothing wrong with it. > > ISTR some > > Australian website where the guy made a welded steel > frame to reinforce the > > firewall to minimize cowl flex. That seems a little > extreme and unnecessary. > > > > I can't imagine that they rode this > rough when new. Back in the 50's with > > the American land yacht cars rolling down the road it > seems like people would > > have expected a smoother ride out of a new Triumph. > > Among other things, > > I do flight test data acquisition systems. I've been > crazy enough that I have > > thought about setting up a labjack system (http://labjack.com) to > > measure > > acceleration, but the accelerometers are too > expensive (the cheapest are > > about $500 apiece). Maybe I can borrow some from > work... > > Any other ideas? > > I may borrow another TR3 that was recently ground-up > restored to see if it > > rides better. > > ISTR threads on this in the > past. > > > > -Bill in > > Tehachapi From cliff_hansen at earthlink.net Thu Jun 16 19:49:39 2011 From: cliff_hansen at earthlink.net (Cliff Hansen) Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2011 18:49:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] Any feedback on TRF's new TR4A bumpers? Message-ID: <3C6F126C92654418B5F5458627FFD516@Shemp> Anybody purchase TRFbs front bumper bar or overriders recently? The listed price is similar to having my ratty but original parts rechromed. Any feedback is welcome. Cliff From kinderlehrer at comcast.net Thu Jun 16 20:57:09 2011 From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer) Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2011 19:57:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] California TR3A Sighting In-Reply-To: <4DFA366A.6050902@gmail.com> References: <113958.5396.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <979118.86033.qm@web120214.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <4DFA366A.6050902@gmail.com> Message-ID: <4DFAC285.40400@comcast.net> Teriann, you were in Monterey County last Wednesday and didn't' stop by Laguna Seca for the International Triumph Challenge featuring the Kastner Cup? It was great day, (well, some had a better day than others). I met a lot of people there whose names I knew from this list and from Triumph lore, including, of course, Kas Kastner, Hardy Prentice - who I got to drive around the track, Tony Drews, and our own Mark Bradakis. LOTS of pictures on the Triumph Travelers Photobucket account http://s931.photobucket.com/albums/ad158/triumphtraveler/2011%20Events/2011_06_07_Kastner_Cup/ Bob On 6/16/2011 9:59 AM, TeriAnn J. Wakeman wrote: > What and no one saw a stealth red TR3 with hard top making its way > towards Monterey from Needles a week ago Wednesday? > > Then probably no one will see it making a trip from Santa Cruz to > Flagstaff Friday either. > > Teriann > triumphs at autox.team.net From spook01 at comcast.net Thu Jun 16 21:19:15 2011 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2011 22:19:15 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Shaking_TR3?= Message-ID: <20110617031913.53814187672@autox.team.net> Probably the wire wheels. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "William Brewer" To: "John Herrera" Cc: "Triumphs" Subject: [TR] Shaking TR3 Date: Thu, Jun 16, 2011 17:01 Thanks John, I've already done that too. I ended up buying a new prop shaft from MOSS as well. -Bill in Tehachapi --- On Thu, 6/16/11, John Herrera wrote: From: John Herrera Subject: RE: [TR] Shaking TR3 To: wsb1960tr3a at att.net, "Triumph List" Date: Thursday, June 16, 2011, 2:59 PM > Any other ideas? Have your propshaft checked for straightness and balance. John H. triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From Catpusher at aol.com Thu Jun 16 22:43:26 2011 From: Catpusher at aol.com (Catpusher at aol.com) Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2011 00:43:26 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Subject: Re: California TR3A Sighting Message-ID: <3fbf7.20b0e579.3b2c356e@aol.com> Bob, Thanks for the great ride and chat; I wish that my street TR3A was as sharp! Our TR3 race car returned safely from Monterey today. TR Regards, Hardy From: Kinderlehrer To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] California TR3A Sighting Message-ID: <4DFAC285.40400 at comcast.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Teriann, you were in Monterey County last Wednesday and didn't' stop by Laguna Seca for the International Triumph Challenge featuring the Kastner Cup? It was great day, (well, some had a better day than others). I met a lot of people there whose names I knew from this list and from Triumph lore, including, of course, Kas Kastner, Hardy Prentice - who I got to drive around the track, Tony Drews, and our own Mark Bradakis. From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Fri Jun 17 04:21:34 2011 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2011 06:21:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] Any feedback on TRF's new TR4A bumpers? References: <3C6F126C92654418B5F5458627FFD516@Shemp> Message-ID: <593FD2ABB7B049D89E2C7B687EE18E10@userb38463fba5> I have the front and rear bars and overriders for the 4A and they are of nice quality. The rear bar was difficult to install as it needed a lot of pressure to get the sides attached to the side frame mounts. I have not mounted the front bar. JVV ----- Original Message ----- From: "Cliff Hansen" To: "list Triumph" Sent: Thursday, June 16, 2011 9:49 PM Subject: [TR] Any feedback on TRF's new TR4A bumpers? > Anybody purchase TRFbs front bumper bar or overriders recently? The > listed > price is similar to having my ratty but original parts rechromed. Any > feedback is welcome. > > Cliff From yellowtr at adelphia.net Fri Jun 17 05:31:40 2011 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2011 07:31:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] Any feedback on TRF's new TR4A bumpers? In-Reply-To: <3C6F126C92654418B5F5458627FFD516@Shemp> References: <3C6F126C92654418B5F5458627FFD516@Shemp> Message-ID: <201106170731.41192.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Thursday, June 16, 2011 09:49:39 pm Cliff Hansen wrote: > Anybody purchase TRFbs front bumper bar or overriders recently? The > listed price is similar to having my ratty but original parts rechromed. > Any feedback is welcome. > > Cliff Cliff, The bumper on my 63 4 came from TRF on sale and 6 years later still looks the same as when it arrived. I believe the source is Taiwan. I did not have the re-chrome choice as the bumper that came with the car was damaged beyond repair. Bob From lgmtr6 at yahoo.com Fri Jun 17 07:07:10 2011 From: lgmtr6 at yahoo.com (lgmtr6) Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2011 13:07:10 +0000 Subject: [TR] Shaking TR3 In-Reply-To: <848522.19572.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <848522.19572.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I went through this with a GT6. It drove me nuts! It turned out to be a wheel bearing race that was damaged when being installed. It was either crooked or warped. Couldn't tell when I took it apart but it finally fixed the problem, and as you said you hadn't changed them, I'd look there. IMHO Larry Miceli Mount Dora, FL 58 TR3A 73 Triumph Stag 74 Triumph TR6 71 XKE OTS 87 XJ6 VDP Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry -----Original Message----- From: William Brewer Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.netDate: Thu, 16 Jun 2011 14:20:21 To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] Shaking TR3 So the entire time I have driven my TR3A (19 years) I have been trying to get it to ride smoother, especially in the front end. It is very smooth to about 45 mph and then it gets shaking and wobbly from 45 to about 60 or so and then smooths out again. The car has been a rolling restoration and things have been changed out and upgraded continually. It has new rear springs with solid bushings, new wheels and balanced tires from British Wire Wheel, R&P steering, new trunnions, shocks, urethane upper A-arm bushings, new upper A-arm mounts, ball joints, new lower bushings, alignment, more wheel balancing, steering column bushings. Nothing has proven to be the silver bullet. The only thing I haven't changed out or checked recently is the wheel bearings themselves or maybe the shocks and shock bushings (although they look fine to me). I am thinking of putting a dial indicator on the wheel hub and wheels to measure runout. I may check the rear wheel alignment, but I bet there is nothing wrong with it. ISTR some Australian website where the guy made a welded steel frame to reinforce the firewall to minimize cowl flex. That seems a little extreme and unnecessary. I can't imagine that they rode this rough when new. Back in the 50's with the American land yacht cars rolling down the road it seems like people would have expected a smoother ride out of a new Triumph. Among other things, I do flight test data acquisition systems. I've been crazy enough that I have thought about setting up a labjack system (http://labjack.com) to measure acceleration, but the accelerometers are too expensive (the cheapest are about $500 apiece). Maybe I can borrow some from work... Any other ideas? I may borrow another TR3 that was recently ground-up restored to see if it rides better. ISTR threads on this in the past. -Bill in Tehachapi triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/lgmtr6 at yahoo.com From zoboherald at aol.com Fri Jun 17 07:59:55 2011 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace) Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2011 09:59:55 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] OT: looking for folks in the Dayton, Ohio, area willing to test-drive a car Message-ID: <8CDFB0DF838EC10-1430-2C8DD@webmail-m023.sysops.aol.com> [Apologies if this ultimately shows up several times; apparently last night's attempt to post to the lists failed....] A friend of mine here in the Albany (NY) area is looking at a car (Hyundai Tiburon) in Dayton, Ohio. If there is anyone reading this in or near that area who would be willing to test-drive the car, please let ME know directly, and I will put you in touch with my friend. Thanks, and sorry to bomb the lists like this. --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us From guy at genfiniti.com Fri Jun 17 08:35:40 2011 From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins) Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2011 09:35:40 -0500 Subject: [TR] Any feedback on TRF's new TR4A bumpers? In-Reply-To: <3C6F126C92654418B5F5458627FFD516@Shemp> References: <3C6F126C92654418B5F5458627FFD516@Shemp> Message-ID: Cliff, I purchased the bar and the overriders, and hope to install them very soon. Like you, I discovered that the cost of having somethings re-chromed was less expensive. This way true of the rear bumper bar, but not the rear bumper overriders. The TRF front bar and overriders were less expensive than having those re-chromed. On Jun 16, 2011, at 8:49 PM, Cliff Hansen wrote: > Anybody purchase TRFbs front bumper bar or overriders recently? The listed > price is similar to having my ratty but original parts rechromed. Any > feedback is welcome. > > Cliff > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/guy at genfiniti.com From dkspence at telus.net Fri Jun 17 10:58:54 2011 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence) Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2011 10:58:54 -0600 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 16 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: If you are changing from wires to solid wheels, you really need to replace the wheel studs with the longer ones meant for solid wheels. ( RFK700 at TRF) On 16-Jun-11, at 4:51 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > From: "Jerry Van Vlack" > Date: June 16, 2011 4:20:44 PM MDT (CA) > To: "William Brewer" , "Triumphs" > > Subject: Re: [TR] Shaking TR3 > > > At the end of the day I think that you'll find that it's the wire > wheels. Can you find someone who does on the car balancing? That > may improve things a bit. I'd also suggest trying a set of solid > wheels and tires. I must caution however that you don't get much > stud and bolt engagement (thread length) doing that and then > driving up to 60mph is risky. That and you don't know how well they > are balance either but if you noticed a change it could steer you > in the right direction. > > I changed from wires to Panasports on my 4A and 29 years of > vibration and shaking disappeared. My wire were old however but > they were maintained. > > JVV From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Fri Jun 17 11:44:19 2011 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2011 10:44:19 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 16 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <506605.54621.qm@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> unless you used the 1/4" wheels spacer. like the ones i make! Frank ________________________________ From: Don Spence To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, June 17, 2011 9:58:54 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 16 If you are changing from wires to solid wheels, you really need to replace the wheel studs with the longer ones meant for solid wheels. ( RFK700 at TRF) On 16-Jun-11, at 4:51 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > From: "Jerry Van Vlack" > Date: June 16, 2011 4:20:44 PM MDT (CA) > To: "William Brewer" , "Triumphs" > > Subject: Re: [TR] Shaking TR3 > > > At the end of the day I think that you'll find that it's the wire > wheels. Can you find someone who does on the car balancing? That > may improve things a bit. I'd also suggest trying a set of solid > wheels and tires. I must caution however that you don't get much > stud and bolt engagement (thread length) doing that and then > driving up to 60mph is risky. That and you don't know how well they > are balance either but if you noticed a change it could steer you > in the right direction. > > I changed from wires to Panasports on my 4A and 29 years of > vibration and shaking disappeared. My wire were old however but > they were maintained. > > JVV triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From dkspence at telus.net Fri Jun 17 11:54:23 2011 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence) Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2011 11:54:23 -0600 Subject: [TR] Shaking TR3 In-Reply-To: <506605.54621.qm@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <506605.54621.qm@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <5951EFD2-7049-4545-A974-18BB3CDE664E@telus.net> That only works going the other way. Steel to wires. Your product would only exacerbate an already dangerous situation as in preventing the lug nuts from a full "grasp" of the studs On 17-Jun-11, at 11:44 AM, Frank Fisher wrote: > unless you used the 1/4" wheels spacer. > like the ones i make! > Frank > > From: Don Spence > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Fri, June 17, 2011 9:58:54 AM > Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 16 > > If you are changing from wires to solid wheels, you really need to > replace the wheel studs with the longer ones meant for solid wheels. > ( RFK700 at TRF) > > On 16-Jun-11, at 4:51 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > > > > From: "Jerry Van Vlack" > > Date: June 16, 2011 4:20:44 PM MDT (CA) > > To: "William Brewer" , "Triumphs" > > > > Subject: Re: [TR] Shaking TR3 > > > > > > At the end of the day I think that you'll find that it's the wire > > wheels. Can you find someone who does on the car balancing? That > > may improve things a bit. I'd also suggest trying a set of solid > > wheels and tires. I must caution however that you don't get much > > stud and bolt engagement (thread length) doing that and then > > driving up to 60mph is risky. That and you don't know how well they > > are balance either but if you noticed a change it could steer you > > in the right direction. > > > > I changed from wires to Panasports on my 4A and 29 years of > > vibration and shaking disappeared. My wire were old however but > > they were maintained. > > > > JVV > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ > yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Fri Jun 17 12:00:55 2011 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2011 11:00:55 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Shaking TR3 In-Reply-To: <5951EFD2-7049-4545-A974-18BB3CDE664E@telus.net> References: <506605.54621.qm@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <5951EFD2-7049-4545-A974-18BB3CDE664E@telus.net> Message-ID: <891134.95062.qm@web120214.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> correct. but it sounds like that's what Bill did. but it poses the question: if bill did go from steel wheels to wire wheels, how did you deal with the stud issue? 2 choices 1 cut them or replace them 2 use wheel spacer Frank ________________________________ From: Don Spence To: Frank Fisher Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, June 17, 2011 10:54:23 AM Subject: Shaking TR3 That only works going the other way. Steel to wires. Your product would only exacerbate an already dangerous situation as in preventing the lug nuts from a full "grasp" of the studs On 17-Jun-11, at 11:44 AM, Frank Fisher wrote: unless you used the 1/4" wheels spacer. >like the ones i make! >Frank > > > > ________________________________ From: Don Spence >To: triumphs at autox.team.net >Sent: Fri, June 17, 2011 9:58:54 AM >Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 16 > >If you are changing from wires to solid wheels, you really need to >replace the wheel studs with the longer ones meant for solid wheels. >( RFK700 at TRF) > >On 16-Jun-11, at 4:51 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > >> >> From: "Jerry Van Vlack" >> Date: June 16, 2011 4:20:44 PM MDT (CA) >> To: "William Brewer" , "Triumphs" >> >> Subject: Re: [TR] Shaking TR3 >> >> >> At the end of the day I think that you'll find that it's the wire >> wheels. Can you find someone who does on the car balancing? That >> may improve things a bit. I'd also suggest trying a set of solid >> wheels and tires. I must caution however that you don't get much >> stud and bolt engagement (thread length) doing that and then >> driving up to 60mph is risky. That and you don't know how well they >> are balance either but if you noticed a change it could steer you >> in the right direction. >> >> I changed from wires to Panasports on my 4A and 29 years of >> vibration and shaking disappeared. My wire were old however but >> they were maintained. >> >> JVV >triumphs at autox.team.net > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From bill_beecher at flash.net Fri Jun 17 12:11:54 2011 From: bill_beecher at flash.net (bill_beecher at flash.net) Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2011 12:11:54 -0600 Subject: [TR] SU H6 Carbs on an MG-TD Message-ID: Have a friend asking about putting a set of H6 carbs on his '54 MG-TD, 1-3/4" down to 1-1/4" . Is there an adaptor/reducer that will allow him to do this? TIA, Bill From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Fri Jun 17 12:28:30 2011 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2011 14:28:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] Shaking TR3 In-Reply-To: <5951EFD2-7049-4545-A974-18BB3CDE664E@telus.net> References: , , <506605.54621.qm@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>, <5951EFD2-7049-4545-A974-18BB3CDE664E@telus.net> Message-ID: > That only works going the other way. Steel to wires. Your product > would only exacerbate an already dangerous situation as in preventing > the lug nuts from a full "grasp" of the studs Yes, this requires a minus spacer. Anon. From wbeech at flash.net Fri Jun 17 12:28:17 2011 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2011 12:28:17 -0600 Subject: [TR] SU H6 Carbs on an MG-TD Message-ID: <4E5D965035A44CFE8149809CD36B3E56@bboffice> Hello List, Have a friend asking about putting a set of H6 carbs on his '54 MG-TD, 1-3/4" down to 1-1/4" . Is there an adaptor/reducer that will allow him to do this? TIA, Bill From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Jun 17 13:24:08 2011 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2011 15:24:08 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Shaking TR3 Message-ID: <2b854.12cd686b.3b2d03d8@cs.com> In a message dated 6/17/2011 1:14:57 PM Central Daylight Time, dkspence at telus.net writes: > That only works going the other way. Steel to wires. Your product > would only exacerbate an already dangerous situation as in preventing > the lug nuts from a full "grasp" of the studs > I think that's what he meant. If you have wires and spacers you can remove the spline hubs and spacers and bolt up a steel wheel. Easy-peasy. Dave From tjwakeman at gmail.com Fri Jun 17 13:41:47 2011 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2011 12:41:47 -0700 Subject: [TR] California TR3A Sighting In-Reply-To: <4DFAC285.40400@comcast.net> References: <113958.5396.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <979118.86033.qm@web120214.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <4DFA366A.6050902@gmail.com> <4DFAC285.40400@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4DFBADFB.6020903@gmail.com> On 6/16/11 7:57 PM, Kinderlehrer wrote: > Teriann, you were in Monterey County last Wednesday and didn't' stop > by Laguna Seca for the International Triumph Challenge featuring the > Kastner Cup? I had an alternator failure Tuesday afternoon which drained the battery. I overnighted in Laughlin and didn't get out of town with a rebuilt alternator until after noon Wednesday. I overnighted Wed night at King City (9:30PM). I went past Laguna Seca about 7AM Thursday. I really wanted to be at the Wed. races but it didn't happen :( Teriann From tfansher at comcast.net Fri Jun 17 13:54:01 2011 From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2011 19:54:01 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Shaking TR3 In-Reply-To: <2b854.12cd686b.3b2d03d8@cs.com> Message-ID: <1726703957.29430.1308340441495.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Dave, "easy-peasy"????? Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: Dave1massey at cs.com To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, June 17, 2011 3:24:08 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Shaking TR3 In a message dated 6/17/2011 1:14:57 PM Central Daylight Time, dkspence at telus.net writes: > That only works going the other way. Steel to wires. Your product > would only exacerbate an already dangerous situation as in preventing > the lug nuts from a full "grasp" of the studs > I think that's what he meant. If you have wires and spacers you can remove the spline hubs and spacers and bolt up a steel wheel. Easy-peasy. Dave triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tfansher at comcast.net From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jun 17 14:30:34 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2011 13:30:34 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 16 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <005c01cc2d2d$692da8c0$0301a8c0@randall> > If you are changing from wires to solid wheels, you really need to > replace the wheel studs with the longer ones meant for solid wheels. While I agree, I am curious : Has anyone actually had a short stud fail when used with the steel wheel nuts (and not under racing conditions) ? I ran a lot of miles with steel wheels on wire wheel studs and never had any problems. Of course I'd never suggest doing that to anyone else! -- Randall From auprichard at uprichard.net Fri Jun 17 15:25:50 2011 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2011 17:25:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 16 In-Reply-To: <005c01cc2d2d$692da8c0$0301a8c0@randall> References: <005c01cc2d2d$692da8c0$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: And I used wire wheels on the original studs and didn't have any problem with the studs being too long. Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Friday, June 17, 2011 4:31 PM To: 'Don Spence'; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 16 > If you are changing from wires to solid wheels, you really need to > replace the wheel studs with the longer ones meant for solid wheels. While I agree, I am curious : Has anyone actually had a short stud fail when used with the steel wheel nuts (and not under racing conditions) ? I ran a lot of miles with steel wheels on wire wheel studs and never had any problems. Of course I'd never suggest doing that to anyone else! -- Randall triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Jun 17 15:27:34 2011 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2011 17:27:34 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Shaking TR3 Message-ID: <30446.368afb2b.3b2d20c5@cs.com> In a message dated 6/17/2011 2:54:01 PM Central Daylight Time, tfansher at comcast.net writes: > Dave, "easy-peasy"????? > Tom > From: Dave1massey at cs.com > > > I think that's what he meant. If you have wires and spacers you can > remove > the spline hubs and spacers and bolt up a steel wheel. Easy-peasy. Compared to changing out the studs... From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Fri Jun 17 15:57:03 2011 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2011 17:57:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 16 References: <005c01cc2d2d$692da8c0$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: I guess since I brought that subject up I should add to what I said. I too ran an old TR4 that I had for a few months on solid wheels with ww studs and lived to see the next day but I would not recommend anyone do this just because I lived through doing it. That car was sold a long time ago. In 1998 I changed my TR4A from wires to Panasports. I planned to change the studs this time but I wanted to see how these new wheels and tires looked on my car. The front fit and there was some thread engagement but when I tried the back I was only able to get about 2 threads to engage using the supplied Panasport wheel nuts. Why the front to back difference I don't know, perhaps the front ww studs are a bit longer. I did not lower the car to the ground with the Panasports on the back for fear they would pull off the studs. Moral is this. Maybe you can get away with it using stock TR wheels but you can not using Panasport wheels and I suspect the other styled wheels are the same. The hubs of the wheels are too thick to allow it. I would not endorse it with stock wheels either.............but I did it when I didn't know any better. JVV ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "'Don Spence'" ; Sent: Friday, June 17, 2011 4:30 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 16 >> If you are changing from wires to solid wheels, you really need to >> replace the wheel studs with the longer ones meant for solid wheels. > > While I agree, I am curious : Has anyone actually had a short stud fail > when > used with the steel wheel nuts (and not under racing conditions) ? > > I ran a lot of miles with steel wheels on wire wheel studs and never had > any > problems. Of course I'd never suggest doing that to anyone else! > > -- Randall From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Fri Jun 17 18:08:21 2011 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2011 17:08:21 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 16 In-Reply-To: <005c01cc2d2d$692da8c0$0301a8c0@randall> References: <005c01cc2d2d$692da8c0$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: On Fri, Jun 17, 2011 at 1:30 PM, Randall wrote: > While I agree, I am curious : Has anyone actually had a short stud fail > when > used with the steel wheel nuts (and not under racing conditions) ? > I have also wondered this -- when I think about the short stud and double-bevel nut that secure the wire wheel splined adaptor it seems (to my engineering-ignorant mind) that the forces at work would be comparable to those in play if the same stud & nut were holding a steel wheel in place. The only difference I can see is that one bevel nut cannot easily loosen when the wire wheel is mounted as the hub of the wheel sort of captures the nut limiting how much a single nut could undo. I, too, offer the 'use only as directed / don't try this at home / YMMV disclaimer. Geo From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Fri Jun 17 19:46:39 2011 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2011 21:46:39 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 16 In-Reply-To: <005c01cc2d2d$692da8c0$0301a8c0@randall> References: , , <005c01cc2d2d$692da8c0$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: > While I agree, I am curious : Has anyone actually had a short stud fail when > used with the steel wheel nuts (and not under racing conditions) ? > > I ran a lot of miles with steel wheels on wire wheel studs and never had any > problems. Of course I'd never suggest doing that to anyone else! > > -- Randall A former member of my local club ran steel wheels on short studs. He used the deeper lug nuts for steel wheels. The threads only engaged about half the nut depth. This always gave me the willies because I was taught that one thread should protrude from the nut. But, I can't recall this causing any problems. Even so, I'm not advocating it. John H. From cliff_hansen at earthlink.net Fri Jun 17 20:18:56 2011 From: cliff_hansen at earthlink.net (Cliff Hansen) Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2011 19:18:56 -0700 Subject: [TR] New parts for sale: TR4/4A/6 Message-ID: <7B9B908F76FA4B7FA37611DAB2891450@Shemp> I picked the following up over the years and will not need them for the restoration. All are new; I have receipts if you need to see them. Prices are roughly 50% of current list; you pay shipping. Ibm happy to provide pictures on request. Let me know if you want any of these; in two weeks Ibll put them on eBay or something, I need to shed mass/volume from the garage in preparation for yet another move (sigh). Thanks, Cliff 66 TR4A Stainless steel sports exhaust, 3 pc, from Y-pipe to tail. Decided it would be louder than I wanted. This is Rimmer kit RF4074. $150 Red fuzzy door seals (2 lengths). These are TRF GRDS40/RED. $40 for both. Wiring harness for TR4, blue taping, terminals as original. TRF TP56C. $200 Set of 2 outer and 2 inner sill panels, labeled for 75 TR6. I bought these from Rimmer about 10 years ago b they are not the BMH panels, they are reproductions and the stickers are in Dutch. I donbt know if Rimmer still sells these panels. $80 for all 4. From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Jun 18 02:22:20 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 18 Jun 2011 01:22:20 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 16 In-Reply-To: References: <005c01cc2d2d$692da8c0$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <010601cc2d90$d8057a80$0301a8c0@randall> > And I used wire wheels on the original studs and didn't have > any problem > with the studs being too long. I have seen trouble with that configuration, although it didn't actually fail. The back of the wheel sat on the stud ends rather than on the taper, and worked back and forth on them. Had to be causing some extra vibration, and may have been why the splines were so badly worn out. -- Randall From dave1massey at cs.com Sat Jun 18 08:07:31 2011 From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sat, 18 Jun 2011 10:07:31 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 16 In-Reply-To: References: , , <005c01cc2d2d$692da8c0$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <8CDFBD8330CD631-17A4-4C256@Webmail-d102.sysops.aol.com> Indeed. Best commercial practices call out full engagement with some exposed thread I've seen Mil Specs that call out two full exposed threads. This doesn't add strength but it does aid in visual inspection for compliance. Also, I've been told that any engaged thread length in excess of the fastener diameter doesn't add any strenght, either. But having a bolt that doesn't protrude through the nut leaves one wondering just how much engagement there really is. As Jerry said, I would advise against it. Dave -----Original Message----- From: John Herrera To: tr3driver ; dkspence ; Triumph List Sent: Fri, Jun 17, 2011 9:10 pm Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 16 > While I agree, I am curious : Has anyone actually had a short stud fail when > used with the steel wheel nuts (and not under racing conditions) ? > > I ran a lot of miles with steel wheels on wire wheel studs and never had any > problems. Of course I'd never suggest doing that to anyone else! > > -- Randall A former member of my local club ran steel wheels on short studs. He used the deeper lug nuts for steel wheels. The threads only engaged about half the nut depth. This always gave me the willies because I was taught that one thread should protrude from the nut. But, I can't recall this causing any problems. Even so, I'm not advocating it. John H. triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dave1massey at cs.com From triumphstag at gmail.com Sat Jun 18 22:31:25 2011 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy) Date: Sat, 18 Jun 2011 21:31:25 -0700 Subject: [TR] Anyone rebuilding Lucas distributor vacuum units State Side? Message-ID: I have a vacuum advance/retard unit for a '71 Stag which needs rebuilding Sujit -- Sujit Roy, Realtor Keller Williams Realty, Cupertino, CA (408) 839-8359 roysrealty.com From dkspence at telus.net Sat Jun 18 23:09:42 2011 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don) Date: Sat, 18 Jun 2011 23:09:42 -0600 Subject: [TR] Shaking TR3 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4FDE5A77-E59C-4368-9CE0-3CDC191C0925@telus.net> Which means you have the longer steel wheel studs in place already. The only way you would get that is if you/someone had previously converted to wires and spacers from steel wheels. On 17-Jun-11, at 7:46 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > In a message dated 6/17/2011 1:14:57 PM Central Daylight Time, > dkspence at telus.net writes: >> That only works going the other way. Steel to wires. Your product >> would only exacerbate an already dangerous situation as in preventing >> the lug nuts from a full "grasp" of the studs >> > > I think that's what he meant. If you have wires and spacers you can > remove > the spline hubs and spacers and bolt up a steel wheel. Easy-peasy. > > Dave From dkspence at telus.net Sat Jun 18 23:16:51 2011 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don) Date: Sat, 18 Jun 2011 23:16:51 -0600 Subject: [TR] shaking TR3 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <62CD3927-692E-4F2C-A250-3E0947FDA008@telus.net> Geo well the forces would be the same they would be working on a smaller surface (fewer threads) thus in effect multiplying the force per unit of surface area thus being more likely to fail. Even if all 4 did fail the nuts and stripped threads would be held captive but the wheel and splined hub would "leave the building". On 17-Jun-11, at 7:46 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > I have also wondered this -- when I think about the short stud and > double-bevel nut that secure the wire wheel splined adaptor it seems > (to my > engineering-ignorant mind) that the forces at work would be > comparable to > those in play if the same stud & nut were holding a steel wheel in > place. > > The only difference I can see is that one bevel nut cannot easily > loosen > when the wire wheel is mounted as the hub of the wheel sort of > captures the > nut limiting how much a single nut could undo. > > I, too, offer the 'use only as directed / don't try this at home / > YMMV > disclaimer. > > G From 61TR4ever at comcast.net Sat Jun 18 23:43:55 2011 From: 61TR4ever at comcast.net (Gary Grant) Date: Sun, 19 Jun 2011 01:43:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR service literature needed Message-ID: While always looking to complete my collection of Triumph service bulletins, at this time I really, really need the following bulletins to complete some originality research. Service Information Sheets (UK issued) 3/64 and 3/66 Western Zone T-62-10 (the Northeastern Zone bulletin of this number not needed) CAL Sales bulletin 147 I do not collect these bulletins as collectable items, but only for informational purposes. So, any format including .pdf files would be just fine. Gary 1961 TR4 CT-1547-L From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jun 19 00:05:28 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 18 Jun 2011 23:05:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] Anyone rebuilding Lucas distributor vacuum units State Side? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <01dd01cc2e46$e3a065b0$0301a8c0@randall> Hardly worth the effort, IMO. The vacuum retard just increases fuel consumption, CO2 emissions and the engine's tendency to overheat at idle. Just plug the line and leave it non-operational. Set the timing to 10 before, and back off the idle setting to get the idle back down (showing how much less fuel it takes to idle at 10 before instead of 4 after). You may need to adjust the bowl vent valve a bit, too. However, my local auto parts store (Clark's Discount Auto in Bellflower, CA) sent out my TR3 vacuum module for rebuilding, so I would guess that they could do the same for the Stag. Try your local NAPA or independent (not a discount chain like O'Reillys or AutoZone). -- Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jun 19 00:16:06 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 18 Jun 2011 23:16:06 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 16 In-Reply-To: References: <005c01cc2d2d$692da8c0$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <01de01cc2e48$60042870$0301a8c0@randall> > I have also wondered this -- when I think about the short stud and > double-bevel nut that secure the wire wheel splined adaptor > it seems (to my > engineering-ignorant mind) that the forces at work would be > comparable to > those in play if the same stud & nut were holding a steel > wheel in place. They are; but with that setup, the stud still goes all the way through the nut. The nut just isn't as tall as the disc wheel nut (which as I recall was enlarged very early in TR2 production, to avoid a tendency to pull through the stamped steel wheel). The disc wheel nut also has a section near the tip where it is not threaded inside, while the wire wheel nuts are threaded all the way through (and supposedly higher quality steel). > The only difference I can see is that one bevel nut cannot > easily loosen > when the wire wheel is mounted as the hub of the wheel sort > of captures the > nut limiting how much a single nut could undo. As Dr. John says, I have experimented with that. They can come plenty loose to cause serious trouble, and the extra forces working on the other nuts will loosen them too. Once several of them are loose, the wheel starts to move away from the hub, and the nuts can fall out (if the stud doesn't break first). Fortunately I realized there was a problem before the wheel parted company with the car (although just barely). My father wasn't so lucky when he repeated the experiment some decades later. Oddly enough, I believe it was the same wheel! (LH rear) -- Randall From dave1massey at cs.com Sun Jun 19 06:26:46 2011 From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 19 Jun 2011 08:26:46 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Shaking TR3 In-Reply-To: <4FDE5A77-E59C-4368-9CE0-3CDC191C0925@telus.net> References: <4FDE5A77-E59C-4368-9CE0-3CDC191C0925@telus.net> Message-ID: <8CDFC934A2F65DC-1E10-39D64@webmail-d094.sysops.aol.com> Exactly. If someone wanted to convert to wires with the intent to switch back, that is the way to go. -----Original Message----- From: Don Which means you have the longer steel wheel studs in place already. The only way you would get that is if you/someone had previously converted to wires and spacers from steel wheels. From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sun Jun 19 08:52:05 2011 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sun, 19 Jun 2011 10:52:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] Anyone rebuilding Lucas distributor vacuum units State Side? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <201106191052.06676.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Sunday, June 19, 2011 12:31:25 am Sujit Roy wrote: > I have a vacuum advance/retard unit for a '71 Stag which needs rebuilding > > Sujit Sujit, Jeff at Advanced Distributor can do everything Lucas for a distributor. Shoot him an email. http://www.advanceddistributors.com/index.htm Bob From dwillner at ptd.net Sun Jun 19 11:11:46 2011 From: dwillner at ptd.net (davewillner) Date: Sun, 19 Jun 2011 13:11:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A interior rear qtr panel screws? Message-ID: <9FDBE688EF5D4843A8A9096FC6251B3B@valued9cfc0b6f> I know the door panels have 14 screws and cup washers and a snap for the side curtain strap, I'm not sure the proper number for the rear quarter panels? Does anyone have a photo or know the correct number? Appreciate it, thanks. Dave Willner Stroudsburg PA 59 TR3A 70 MGB 70 BSA 441 VS From 61TR4ever at comcast.net Fri Jun 17 02:25:14 2011 From: 61TR4ever at comcast.net (Gary Grant) Date: Fri, 17 Jun 2011 04:25:14 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumph Service Bulletins Message-ID: While always looking to complete my collection of Triumph service bulletins, at this time I really, really need the following bulletins to complete some originality research. Service Information Sheets (UK issued) 3/64 and 3/66 Western Zone T-62-10 (the Northeastern Zone bulletin of this number not needed) CAL Sales bulletin 147 Gary 1961 TR4 CT-1547-L From acstults at juno.com Sat Jun 18 13:40:15 2011 From: acstults at juno.com (acstults at juno.com) Date: Sat, 18 Jun 2011 19:40:15 GMT Subject: [TR] recent bogus email Message-ID: <20110618.124015.11185.12@webmail10.vgs.untd.com> Hi All, My email account was hacked yesterday and most of you received a message about how to make some easy money. It wasn't from me. I think I've got the problem fixed. Sorry, Allan From Catpusher at aol.com Sun Jun 19 20:48:52 2011 From: Catpusher at aol.com (Catpusher at aol.com) Date: Sun, 19 Jun 2011 22:48:52 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] GT6+ main light switch Message-ID: <299ef.2b6b4f87.3b300f14@aol.com> I had another failure of the dash headlight switch last night on our 1970 GT6+. It overheated the lucar connector plastic, but not the wires (brown/blue). The switch was about the only factory recall item that I remember after we purchased the car new. This must be about the 4th failure. Standard light units, and no sign of shorts. Has anyone found a better switch? TR Regards, Hardy From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jun 19 21:43:35 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 19 Jun 2011 20:43:35 -0700 Subject: [TR] GT6+ main light switch In-Reply-To: <299ef.2b6b4f87.3b300f14@aol.com> References: <299ef.2b6b4f87.3b300f14@aol.com> Message-ID: <005101cc2efc$3c5f0c00$0301a8c0@randall> > Has anyone > found a better switch? I haven't. But I have found that using relays will prolong the life of the original switches practically forever. 0.1 amps (for the relay coil) produces only 1/10000 as much heat as 10 amps for the headlights. On the Stag, I was able to very carefully melt the plastic in the switch and reshape it until it worked again. But I was lucky, no doubt about that. The overheated contact had sunk into the plastic arm that carried it, so I just heated the contact with my soldering gun until the plastic softened again, then held it in place while it cooled. Blistered a finger, a small price to pay. -- Randall From auprichard at uprichard.net Mon Jun 20 11:34:13 2011 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Mon, 20 Jun 2011 13:34:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] Firewall heater connection Message-ID: Sorry to bomb the list, but for various reasons (it's a long story) I need a heater hose connector for my TR 250 in something of a hurry - like by the end of the day tomorrow (Tuesdat). Nothing on eBay, Moss says it would have to come out of CA (3 days), etc., etc. Is there anyone out there who would overnight one to me? It is the double-hose connector used on the TR250, TR6. Thanks in advance! Andrew Uprichard Jackson, MI From emanteno at comcast.net Mon Jun 20 12:03:35 2011 From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey) Date: Mon, 20 Jun 2011 13:03:35 -0500 Subject: [TR] Firewall heater connection In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On Mon, Jun 20, 2011 at 12:34 PM, Andrew Uprichard wrote: > Sorry to bomb the list, but for various reasons (it's a long story) I need > a > heater hose connector for my TR 250 in something of a hurry - like by the > end of the day tomorrow (Tuesdat). Nothing on eBay, Moss says it would > have > to come out of CA (3 days), etc., etc. > Have you tried Roadster Factory? BPNW? I got mine from Roadster. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From thenicholls at verizon.net Mon Jun 20 12:07:37 2011 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Mon, 20 Jun 2011 13:07:37 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Firewall heater connection Message-ID: <518159329.1637963.1308593257508.JavaMail.root@vznit170064> I would call The Roadster Factory. Craig 1972 Triumph TR6 Jun 20, 2011 02:01:20 PM, auprichard at uprichard.net wrote: Sorry to bomb the list, but for various reasons (it's a long story) I need a heater hose connector for my TR 250 in something of a hurry - like by the end of the day tomorrow (Tuesdat). Nothing on eBay, Moss says it would have to come out of CA (3 days), etc., etc. Is there anyone out there who would overnight one to me? It is the double-hose connector used on the TR250, TR6. Thanks in advance! Andrew Uprichard Jackson, MI triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com Mon Jun 20 12:07:48 2011 From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad) Date: Mon, 20 Jun 2011 11:07:48 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Firewall heater connection Message-ID: <890272.18807.qm@web120507.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Try the roadster factory. I know they will ship overnight. On Mon Jun 20th, 2011 12:34 PM CDT Andrew Uprichard wrote: >Sorry to bomb the list, but for various reasons (it's a long story) I need a >heater hose connector for my TR 250 in something of a hurry - like by the >end of the day tomorrow (Tuesdat). Nothing on eBay, Moss says it would have >to come out of CA (3 days), etc., etc. > > > >Is there anyone out there who would overnight one to me? It is the >double-hose connector used on the TR250, TR6. Thanks in advance! > >Andrew Uprichard > >Jackson, MI > > >triumphs at autox.team.net > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com From auprichard at uprichard.net Mon Jun 20 12:40:19 2011 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Mon, 20 Jun 2011 14:40:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] Firewall heater connection In-Reply-To: <890272.18807.qm@web120507.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <890272.18807.qm@web120507.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <140148121DE247D69A9EB04B710E1A52@DCH6RFC1> Thanks to you for your quick replies, especially to the individual who suggested Scott Harper at Team Triumph in Warren Ohio. One phone call and the part is on its way. I'm all set. Many of you pointed out that The Roadster Factory will overnight. Worth knowing. By the way, I noticed that when I typed www.theroadsterfactory.com (instead of www.the-roadster-factory.com) I was directed to an official-looking page which links to Moss motors. Kinda sneaky if you ask me........ Andrew On Mon Jun 20th, 2011 12:34 PM CDT Andrew Uprichard wrote: >Sorry to bomb the list, but for various reasons (it's a long story) I need a >heater hose connector for my TR 250 in something of a hurry - like by the >end of the day tomorrow (Tuesdat). Nothing on eBay, Moss says it would have >to come out of CA (3 days), etc., etc. > > > >Is there anyone out there who would overnight one to me? It is the >double-hose connector used on the TR250, TR6. Thanks in advance! > >Andrew Uprichard > >Jackson, MI > > >triumphs at autox.team.net > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com From areich at telus.net Mon Jun 20 13:37:46 2011 From: areich at telus.net (Allan Reich) Date: Mon, 20 Jun 2011 12:37:46 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 body gap at driver's door Message-ID: <4DFFA18A.6060808@telus.net> I am looking for a TR6 and came across one with quite a gap at the rear side of the driver door where it meets the back of the body. The door closed OK, but it didn't look good. The fellow said he had talked to a body shop and they said they could detach the tub at the back and shim up the body to fix the gap. Any thoughts on that? Allan Reich Triumph-less in Vancouver (sold my TR3A) From McGaheyRx at aol.com Mon Jun 20 15:06:36 2011 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Mon, 20 Jun 2011 17:06:36 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 body gap at driver's door Message-ID: <1c21f.e8444ab.3b31105c@aol.com> detaching the body from frame and shimming is the only way to fix that - and it is very hard to get right - I have seen more than 1 car look worse after this has been attempted by competent restoration shops. - and finding a TR6 with perfect door/body gaps can be a bit like looking for a unicorn. Cheers Jack Mc In a message dated 6/20/2011 4:00:38 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, areich at telus.net writes: I am looking for a TR6 and came across one with quite a gap at the rear side of the driver door where it meets the back of the body. The door closed OK, but it didn't look good. The fellow said he had talked to a body shop and they said they could detach the tub at the back and shim up the body to fix the gap. From thenicholls at verizon.net Mon Jun 20 15:15:51 2011 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Mon, 20 Jun 2011 16:15:51 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 body gap at driver's door Message-ID: <1556899815.1879939.1308604551333.JavaMail.root@vznit170128> If it was me, I would keep looking. Craig 1972 Triumph TR6 Jun 20, 2011 04:00:54 PM, areich at telus.net wrote: I am looking for a TR6 and came across one with quite a gap at the rear side of the driver door where it meets the back of the body. The door closed OK, but it didn't look good. The fellow said he had talked to a body shop and they said they could detach the tub at the back and shim up the body to fix the gap. Any thoughts on that? Allan Reich Triumph-less in Vancouver (sold my TR3A) triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net From auprichard at uprichard.net Mon Jun 20 15:54:38 2011 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Mon, 20 Jun 2011 17:54:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 body gap at driver's door In-Reply-To: <1556899815.1879939.1308604551333.JavaMail.root@vznit170128> References: <1556899815.1879939.1308604551333.JavaMail.root@vznit170128> Message-ID: <66376D76A8B44D4F9FE1B8C4448120EB@DCH6RFC1> My 250 had a similar problem and shimming worked better than I could have hoped for. Regarding whether or not to keep looking, I guess it is all down to how much you are prepared to spend. I'd rather have a gap on a rust-free car which drives and handles well than have a trailer queen. Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of thenicholls at verizon.net Sent: Monday, June 20, 2011 5:16 PM To: areich at telus.net Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 body gap at driver's door If it was me, I would keep looking. Craig 1972 Triumph TR6 Jun 20, 2011 04:00:54 PM, areich at telus.net wrote: I am looking for a TR6 and came across one with quite a gap at the rear side of the driver door where it meets the back of the body. The door closed OK, but it didn't look good. The fellow said he had talked to a body shop and they said they could detach the tub at the back and shim up the body to fix the gap. Any thoughts on that? Allan Reich Triumph-less in Vancouver (sold my TR3A) triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Jun 20 17:09:23 2011 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 20 Jun 2011 19:09:23 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 body gap at driver's door In-Reply-To: <4DFFA18A.6060808@telus.net> References: <4DFFA18A.6060808@telus.net> Message-ID: Finding a TR6 with "perfect" panel gaps is almost impossible as the factory didn't exactly worry about perfection. How big a gap are you talking about? A long time ago the gap test was............. if you can put your pinkie in the gap and not go past your knuckle you had a good fit! My "bad" door is 3/8" at the top and 3/16" at the bottom........... and the car has won or placed in many people's choice events as well as being the cover car on Hemmings Sports & Exotic Car magazine. I'm sure there's folks in here who will think that my gap is excessive but the car is rust free and mechanically sound which is more important then door gaps. I'd never walk away from a car because of door gap unless........... the cause was a rusty frame creating the sag. Just my 2 cents....YMMV Bob Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 1975 TR6 with: Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff & CVJs -----Original Message----- From: Allan Reich Sent: Monday, June 20, 2011 3:37 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR6 body gap at driver's door I am looking for a TR6 and came across one with quite a gap at the rear side of the driver door where it meets the back of the body. The door closed OK, but it didn't look good. The fellow said he had talked to a body shop and they said they could detach the tub at the back and shim up the body to fix the gap. Any thoughts on that? Allan Reich Triumph-less in Vancouver (sold my TR3A) triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Mon Jun 20 17:40:12 2011 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Mon, 20 Jun 2011 16:40:12 -0700 Subject: [TR] Firewall heater connection In-Reply-To: <140148121DE247D69A9EB04B710E1A52@DCH6RFC1> References: <890272.18807.qm@web120507.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <140148121DE247D69A9EB04B710E1A52@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: On Mon, Jun 20, 2011 at 11:40 AM, Andrew Uprichard wrote: > ... By the way, I noticed that when I typed www.theroadsterfactory.com > (instead of www.the-roadster-factory.com) I was directed to an > official-looking page which links to Moss motors. Kinda sneaky if you ask > me........ > I suspect those sort of pages (there is probably a name for them) offer you links based on what you have been doing recently... e.g. a friend had just sent me some info on the Fiat 500 and when I followed the link you showed it offered me sites with info about -- the Fiat 500. They may get paid for the links you pursue but I don't think this is some sinister plot by Moss to siphon off Charles' customers. Geo From guy at genfiniti.com Mon Jun 20 17:40:31 2011 From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins) Date: Mon, 20 Jun 2011 18:40:31 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 body gap at driver's door In-Reply-To: References: <4DFFA18A.6060808@telus.net> Message-ID: <62861A14-B1D9-4138-8D90-7E54EAABA596@genfiniti.com> On my TR4A, I ended up adding some shims under the rear mount to help close the gap. I worked great! However, please don't trouble yourself for perfection. Triumph sure as hell didn't. On Jun 20, 2011, at 6:09 PM, Bob Danielson wrote: > Finding a TR6 with "perfect" panel gaps is almost impossible as the factory didn't exactly worry about perfection. How big a gap are you talking about? A long time ago the gap test was............. if you can put your pinkie in the gap and not go past your knuckle you had a good fit! My "bad" door is 3/8" at the top and 3/16" at the bottom........... and the car has won or placed in many people's choice events as well as being the cover car on Hemmings Sports & Exotic Car magazine. I'm sure there's folks in here who will think that my gap is excessive but the car is rust free and mechanically sound which is more important then door gaps. I'd never walk away from a car because of door gap unless........... the cause was a rusty frame creating the sag. > > Just my 2 cents....YMMV > > Bob > > > Bob Danielson > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > 1975 TR6 with: > Throttle Body Injection > Toyota 5 Speed > Nissan Diff & CVJs > > -----Original Message----- From: Allan Reich > Sent: Monday, June 20, 2011 3:37 PM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] TR6 body gap at driver's door > > I am looking for a TR6 and came across one with quite a gap at the rear > side of the driver door where it meets the back of the body. The door > closed OK, but it didn't look good. > The fellow said he had talked to a body shop and they said they could > detach the tub at the back and shim up the body to fix the gap. > Any thoughts on that? > > Allan Reich > Triumph-less in Vancouver (sold my TR3A) > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/guy at genfiniti.com From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Mon Jun 20 19:40:16 2011 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Mon, 20 Jun 2011 21:40:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 dash control knobs. In-Reply-To: References: <4DF7D48D.6080500@execulink.com> Message-ID: Ditto the grub screw on the heater knob. Also - becareful with the other knobs - the bakelite by now is quite brittle.I used an automatic center punch after trying an awl..... It went in and I was able to remove the knob - but it cracked my choke knob - really unhappy about it. It's an early one that does not have the pull below the Choke. Chris From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com Mon Jun 20 20:55:42 2011 From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad) Date: Mon, 20 Jun 2011 19:55:42 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 body gap at driver's door In-Reply-To: <1c21f.e8444ab.3b31105c@aol.com> References: <1c21f.e8444ab.3b31105c@aol.com> Message-ID: <818386.92481.qm@web120502.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Shimming the body is pretty straight forward. IMHO, any professional restoration shop that can't get it right isn't very competent. Don't let a door gap steer you away from an otherwise good car. It can be fixed....just takes time and money or time and skill. :-) Chad in Tulsa ________________________________ From: "McGaheyRx at aol.com" To: areich at telus.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Mon, June 20, 2011 4:06:36 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 body gap at driver's door detaching the body from frame and shimming is the only way to fix that - and it is very hard to get right - I have seen more than 1 car look worse after this has been attempted by competent restoration shops. - and finding a TR6 with perfect door/body gaps can be a bit like looking for a unicorn. Cheers Jack Mc In a message dated 6/20/2011 4:00:38 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, areich at telus.net writes: I am looking for a TR6 and came across one with quite a gap at the rear side of the driver door where it meets the back of the body. The door closed OK, but it didn't look good. The fellow said he had talked to a body shop and they said they could detach the tub at the back and shim up the body to fix the gap. triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com Mon Jun 20 21:34:23 2011 From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly) Date: Mon, 20 Jun 2011 20:34:23 -0700 Subject: [TR] British engine and Frame Message-ID: <000001cc2fc4$1de47a30$59ad6e90$@rr.com> Just tried going on the website and found myself on a generic site. Is anyone else having this problem? Here's the link I had/ http://www.britishframeandengine.com/index.html Johnnie From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jun 21 01:57:31 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2011 00:57:31 -0700 Subject: [TR] British engine and Frame In-Reply-To: <000001cc2fc4$1de47a30$59ad6e90$@rr.com> References: <000001cc2fc4$1de47a30$59ad6e90$@rr.com> Message-ID: <01e001cc2fe8$dfd26ed0$0301a8c0@randall> > Just tried going on the website and found myself on a generic site. Is > anyone else having this problem? Yup. Looks like maybe Ken let the domain name lapse. -- Randall From dave1massey at cs.com Tue Jun 21 06:29:33 2011 From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2011 08:29:33 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] British engine and Frame In-Reply-To: <000001cc2fc4$1de47a30$59ad6e90$@rr.com> References: <000001cc2fc4$1de47a30$59ad6e90$@rr.com> Message-ID: <8CDFE2602390E34-744-5BE5A@webmail-m054.sysops.aol.com> Here's an Email link from Kas Kastner's Page: bfekeng at aol.com This might still be good. Dave -----Original Message----- From: John & Pat Donnelly Just tried going on the website and found myself on a generic site. Is anyone else having this problem? Here's the link I had/ http://www.britishframeandengine.com/index.html From auprichard at uprichard.net Tue Jun 21 07:21:28 2011 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2011 09:21:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] TVR nose in San Martin, CA In-Reply-To: <8CDFE2602390E34-744-5BE5A@webmail-m054.sysops.aol.com> References: <000001cc2fc4$1de47a30$59ad6e90$@rr.com> <8CDFE2602390E34-744-5BE5A@webmail-m054.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <53F3BCE0ABF44FECBE795400999BE67D@DCH6RFC1> Again, sorry to bomb the list, but is there anyone in the San Martin area who would pick up and store a nose for a TVR Grantura? The nose is on eBay for local pickup only and I have a friend who wants it and who could get out there sometime in the next couple of months. Unfortunately the friend is in Vermont !! Let me know. Thanks!! Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: John & Pat Donnelly Just tried going on the website and found myself on a generic site. Is anyone else having this problem? Here's the link I had/ http://www.britishframeandengine.com/index.html triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From McGaheyRx at aol.com Tue Jun 21 07:51:15 2011 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2011 09:51:15 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 body gap at driver's door Message-ID: <103.d96963e.3b31fbd3@aol.com> In a message dated 6/20/2011 10:56:14 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com writes: Shimming the body is pretty straight forward. IMHO, any professional restoration shop that can't get it right isn't very competent. I don't know how you can say that - everything you do to try to fix ONE bad door gap will affect every other gap on the car - I doubt seriously if anyone who has done this, even if they are very successful and good at it, would say it is "straight forward" Don't let a door gap steer you away from an otherwise good car. It can be fixed....just takes time and money or time and skill. :-) VERY TRUE! Cheers, Jack Mc From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Tue Jun 21 08:43:44 2011 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2011 07:43:44 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] British engine and Frame In-Reply-To: <000001cc2fc4$1de47a30$59ad6e90$@rr.com> References: <000001cc2fc4$1de47a30$59ad6e90$@rr.com> Message-ID: <862261.3323.qm@web120219.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> i get same problem Frank ________________________________ From: John & Pat Donnelly To: Triumph Sent: Mon, June 20, 2011 8:34:23 PM Subject: [TR] British engine and Frame Just tried going on the website and found myself on a generic site. Is anyone else having this problem? Here's the link I had/ http://www.britishframeandengine.com/index.html Johnnie triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From pethier at comcast.net Tue Jun 21 11:04:51 2011 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2011 17:04:51 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Shaking TR3 In-Reply-To: <1909213311.2224422.1308261883608.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1960450668.168676.1308675891057.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Are you sure your tires are round? I suddenly picked up a vibration in my truck. Checked the tires and there is a high area in the middle of the tread on the right rear. Sudden appearance of this must be a belt failure or tread separation. I was planning on replacing the tires before the VTR convention trip in August, but this makes it immediate. I'm having a new set of Michelins put on tonight. The BFGs lasted OK through two trucks, but the Micks get great reviews. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack" 2004 Suburban 8.1 2005 Lotus Elise 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://www.mnautox.com From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk Tue Jun 21 12:09:13 2011 From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2011 19:09:13 +0100 (BST) Subject: [TR] Shaking TR3 In-Reply-To: <1960450668.168676.1308675891057.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <1909213311.2224422.1308261883608.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <1960450668.168676.1308675891057.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1308679753.22700.YahooMailNeo@web28306.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Phil Ethier wrote: I was planning on replacing the tires before the VTR convention trip in August, but this makes it immediate. I'm having a new set of Michelins put on tonight. VTR and a TRUCK???????????????? Does the reason a truck might be going to VTR imply it might be pulling a trailer? To tow a less reliable Triumph to and from the event, I hope - rather than a certain very reliable Stag? Jonmac From wbeech at flash.net Tue Jun 21 12:21:39 2011 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech) Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2011 12:21:39 -0600 Subject: [TR] Shaking TR3 In-Reply-To: <1960450668.168676.1308675891057.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <1960450668.168676.1308675891057.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <985A1B03-8849-4803-83D8-9215CD70457E@flash.net> Allen at Hendrix WW will tell that even new tires can arrive out of round. This is even more evident on the older less sophisticated suspensions. Sent from mobile Bill On Jun 21, 2011, at 11:04 AM, pethier at comcast.net wrote: > Are you sure your tires are round? I suddenly picked up a vibration in my truck. Checked the tires and there is a high area in the middle of the tread on the right rear. Sudden appearance of this must be a belt failure or tread separation. I was planning on replacing the tires before the VTR convention trip in August, but this makes it immediate. I'm having a new set of Michelins put on tonight. The BFGs lasted OK through two trucks, but the Micks get great reviews. > > > > Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA > 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack" > 2004 Suburban 8.1 > 2005 Lotus Elise > 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 > pethier [at] comcast [dot] net > http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier > http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk > http://www.mnautox.com > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From smacsjunk at hotmail.com Tue Jun 21 12:26:27 2011 From: smacsjunk at hotmail.com (scotts junk) Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2011 13:26:27 -0500 Subject: [TR] Overdrive intermittent In-Reply-To: <917457.8543.qm@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <863191.54078.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>, <917457.8543.qm@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I recently had a chance to take a friend's TR-250 on a fairly long road trip (1600 miles). The first day out the overdive operated in a rather strange fashion: for the first few miles while departing the city it changed up and down with the switch as normal, however once we hit the highway, it stopped responding to any changes in the switch position (either up or down) BUT did shift up into overdrive on its own at about 3800 rpm in third and stayed there until the car was downshifted into second (at low speed) - almost like an automatic transmission??!. Switch position did not seem to have any effect on when it up or downshifted. It operated this way until our first stop (car had the opportunity to cool down for about an hour). Again leaving town it operated normally for a short time, but on the highway almost immediately went back into "automatic" mode. It continued this throughout the first day (about 350 miles across fairly flat prairie, temp about 20C/68F). Next morning and for the remainder of the trip it functioned prefectly normally. Has anyone experienced anything similar or have an enlightening insight? cheers Scott From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Tue Jun 21 13:19:26 2011 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2011 12:19:26 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Shaking TR3 Message-ID: <900068.19577.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> The tires are nearly new. I've put about 100,000 miles on the car and gone through several sets of tires and it doesn't seem to make a difference. The last set was on new SS wire wheels and balanced by British Wire Wheel. I changed from original steel wheels to SS wires and it didn't seem to change anything, except the good looks. I drove my neighbors TR3A (which used to be mine in boxes in the 90's) and it definitely rides smoother at freeway speeds. A new driveshaft from MOSS didn't change anything either, although I still will take it in to be balanced, just to be sure. My next move will be to change the wheel bearings, balance the driveshaft and see if I can find someone who spin balances wheels and tires on the car. -Bill in Tehachapi Subject: Re: [TR] Shaking TR3 Message-ID: <1960450668.168676.1308675891057.JavaMail.root at sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.com cast.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 Are you sure your tires are round? I suddenly picked up a vibration in my truck. Checked the tires and there is a high area in the middle of the tread on the right rear. Sudden appearance of this must be a belt failure or tread separation. I was planning on replacing the tires before the VTR convention trip in August, but this makes it immediate. I'm having a new set of Michelins put on tonight. The BFGs lasted OK through two trucks, but the Micks get great reviews. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA From pethier at comcast.net Tue Jun 21 13:24:30 2011 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2011 19:24:30 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Shaking TR3 and trailer-queen stags In-Reply-To: <1308679753.22700.YahooMailNeo@web28306.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <755938418.176794.1308684270293.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> ha, ha. I figured that would flush you out! uncle jack just came back from a week on the road. We drove to Perham for a few days and on to Fargo for the Rendezvous. (there were two other Stags there, from Manitoba.) No trucks involved. He was a perfect gentleman, except for having to take the window-lift switch out of the console to work it. What can I say, but I just love playing with my "new" truck. Can't wait to attack the Rockies with that huge V8. uncle jack will have plenty of time on the road while we are out there. We intend to take him on the highest paved road in the USA. Even when we trailered the TR4 to California, we put almost 700 miles on the TR4. Side note on the Rendezvous: The 2012 version is in Kenora Ontario. Hotel sold out in two days. Already. Now. I got the 4th-to-last room last night at 10:30 PM. 94 rooms! Now they are starting on their second hotel. That's a 430-mile drive. We will see if we do that in one day with the Stag. We have done it to Thunder Bay. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack" 2004 Suburban 8.1 2005 Lotus Elise 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://www.mnautox.com ----- Original Message ----- > From: "John Macartney" > To: pethier at comcast.net, triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2011 1:09:13 PM > Subject: Re: [TR] Shaking TR3 > Phil Ethier wrote: > I was planning on replacing the tires before the VTR convention trip > in August, but this makes it immediate. I'm having a new set of > Michelins put on tonight. > > VTR and a TRUCK???????????????? Does the reason a truck might be going > to VTR imply it might be pulling a trailer? To tow a less reliable > Triumph to and from the event, I hope - rather than a certain very > reliable Stag? > > Jonmac From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jun 21 15:11:39 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2011 14:11:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] Overdrive intermittent In-Reply-To: References: <863191.54078.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>, <917457.8543.qm@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <014401cc3057$d0d304c0$72790e40$@rr.com> Hate to say this, Scott, but I have had somewhat similar problems. The thrust washer inside the planetary carrier had broken and gotten ground up by the gears, the resulting swarf was interfering with both the operating valve and the pump "non-return" valve. My theory is that the operating valve was jammed on (by a piece of crud under the ball, plus another in the drain hole in the stem), but the non-return valve was also jammed open (meaning it couldn't develop enough pressure to move the clutches until higher rpm). So my first suggestion would be to drain and inspect the oil. If it is full of sparklies, better to tear it down now before things get torn up any worse. -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jun 21 15:17:19 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2011 14:17:19 -0700 Subject: [TR] Shaking TR3 In-Reply-To: <985A1B03-8849-4803-83D8-9215CD70457E@flash.net> References: <1960450668.168676.1308675891057.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <985A1B03-8849-4803-83D8-9215CD70457E@flash.net> Message-ID: <014501cc3058$9b531370$d1f93a50$@rr.com> > Allen at Hendrix WW will tell that even new tires can arrive out of > round. Indeed, they can even appear round on the balancing machine, but still cause vibration when loaded, if there is a variation in stiffness. But it rarely happens IMO; and like Bill I have been through several sets of quality, modern tires without it making much difference. My "aha moment" was when I was working on the front brakes, and discovered that the hub would turn under its own weight, with no wheel mounted at all. When I tried it at the bench (using a spare upright clamped in the vise), spinning at only moderate speed (powered by a wire wheel on my angle grinder) would shake the entire bench violently. -- Randall From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Tue Jun 21 17:44:29 2011 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net) Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2011 19:44:29 -0400 Subject: [TR] Overdrive intermittent Message-ID: <380-220116221234429586@M2W105.mail2web.com> I actually had the switch button (on the tranny mounted switch) on mine wear enough so that it would barely connect. It would then engage and disengage at random. Annoying as H**L .- the solution was to replace the switch Original Message: ----------------- From: scotts junk smacsjunk at hotmail.com Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2011 13:26:27 -0500 To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Overdrive intermittent I recently had a chance to take a friend's TR-250 on a fairly long road trip (1600 miles). The first day out the overdive operated in a rather strange fashion: for the first few miles while departing the city it changed up and down with the switch as normal, however once we hit the highway, it stopped responding to any changes in the switch position (either up or down) BUT did shift up into overdrive on its own at about 3800 rpm in third and stayed there until the car was downshifted into second (at low speed) - almost like an automatic transmission??!. Switch position did not seem to have any effect on when it up or downshifted. It operated this way until our first stop (car had the opportunity to cool down for about an hour). Again leaving town it operated normally for a short time, but on the highway almost immediately went back into "automatic" mode. It continued this throughout the first day (about 350 miles across fairly flat prairie, temp about 20C/68F). Next morning and for the remainder of the trip it functioned prefectly normally. Has anyone experienced anything similar or have an enlightening insight? cheers Scott triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/v6spitfireguy at cox.net -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://link.mail2web.com/mail2web From thenicholls at verizon.net Tue Jun 21 18:46:43 2011 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2011 19:46:43 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Hardtop storage carrier Message-ID: <1017962637.1942383.1308703603428.JavaMail.root@vznit170128> Just wanted to pass this onto the list, I may have seen it on the list, hard to remember. For 5 years I have struggled with how to store my steel hardtop for my TR6. Looked into carriers, hoists, all kinds of stuff that was expensive. It sat in the corner of my garage on a blanket and covered by a blanket. I saw Paul's website at: http://www.74tr6.com/hardtopcarrier.htm This solution was so simple, I used the orignal design, I have no need to move it around. Used some wood laying around and one trip to Home Depot, probably cost me $25. Just wanted to pass this on to you hardtop owners out there. Thanks Paul, Craig H. Nicholls 1972 Triumph TR6 Vienna, VA From triumphstag at gmail.com Tue Jun 21 21:23:51 2011 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (Sujit Roy) Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2011 20:23:51 -0700 Subject: [TR] Anyone on the list rebuild a triumph 2000 / stag power steering rack Message-ID: Please let me know as I have questions about it From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jun 21 23:10:11 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2011 22:10:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] Anyone on the list rebuild a triumph 2000 / stag power steering rack In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <036401cc309a$a9ab1480$0301a8c0@randall> I didn't exactly rebuild it, but I have had mine apart and back together. Didn't work when I took it apart, did work after I put it back together. (Previous rebuilder had apparently assembled it wrong.) -- Randall From rbtr3a at cox.net Wed Jun 22 07:51:30 2011 From: rbtr3a at cox.net (ronnie babbitt) Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2011 13:51:30 +0000 Subject: [TR] I sure miss Message-ID: I sure do miss talking to my ole buddy, I had Freds number programed as a speed dial F, not "F" for Fred but for Fred ole fart. Ronnie From tfansher at comcast.net Wed Jun 22 09:21:41 2011 From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2011 15:21:41 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] I sure miss In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <472793624.18299.1308756101377.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Yeah, me too. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "ronnie babbitt" To: "triumphs2 TRlist" Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2011 9:51:30 AM Subject: [TR] I sure miss I sure do miss talking to my ole buddy, I had Freds number programed as a speed dial F, not "F" for Fred but for Fred ole fart. Ronnie triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tfansher at comcast.net From gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com Wed Jun 22 09:44:27 2011 From: gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com (Greg Solow) Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2011 08:44:27 -0700 Subject: [TR] Fw: new oil infor Message-ID: <5BCF4D0FF62442F6BB05982DDD14C4FA@your89d26e0447> ----- Original Message ----- From: Greg Solow To: Greg Solow Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2011 8:39 AM Subject: new oil infor Hello, A lot of racers are still using engine oils that are very low in the extreme pressure additives ZDDP and the diesel oil is NO longer good to use even with a can of ZDDP added to it. The "SM and SN" rated oils are ONLY good for the newer stock engines with roller rockers or tappets. Joe Gibbs race oil, Red Line racing, Swepco, Brad Pen with the proper classifications are about the only oils to use with flat tappet or OHC engines. other good oils that we know of are Torco, Valvolene Racing (FOR OFF ROAD USE ONLY)-------- The Engine Room Morgan & Sports Car Specialists Santa Cruz, Calif. 95060 831 429-1800 From TR250Driver at aol.com Wed Jun 22 11:55:11 2011 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2011 13:55:11 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Side of the Road Message-ID: <37453.9d52de0.3b33867e@aol.com> Guys, The TR4 took me to the side of the road, Route 30 in OHIO, coming home from the TRA National Meeting in Ft Wayne, Indiana. In fact I was there several times. Out in the middle of no where on a Sunday. She would run for a half mile or so and then slowly die. First I tried to trouble shoot electrics with no success then I opened the tops of the SU's to find them dry. I looked at Beverly and told her we were most likely toast. It was weird, the fuel pump was pumping gas as I disconnected the line, the Four would sit for 5 to 10 minutes, then fire up normally but would only go a 1/2 mile before running out of gas again. I was ready to give up and call for a Hook when the calvary arrived in the form of Pat Davis, hauling his TR2, his Buddy Rich (no not he famous drummer) hauling a TR4, my friend John Nelson and Jim Shear both driving TR6's. They were all then on the side of the road as well. Pat was the fire plug. We are going to get this puppy going again he was saying over and over. I was skeptical, thinking that the AC fuel pump had gone south. Rich had a spare fuel filter and Pat was insistent that we get out of the way and let him install it. THANK YOU Pat! Bingo! The Four fired up and I never looked back the 90 miles to home. We often talk about it. True Triumph Friends are of great value to each other. None of the four who stopped were going to leave me on the side of the road until we had tried all on the spot remedies available. Thanks again to all. There was a bunch of black junk in the old filter. Rich was talking of the horrors of ethanol added to gas ruining all the rubber fuel lines. He referred to some braided lines that were available and may be the solution. Anyone know about those or any other fix? As a side issue I filled up before I left at a BP station. Premium 93. The pump was so slow it must have taken 15 minutes to fill up. I wonder if I was pumping a bunch of black junk from the bottom of their tank. See you Guys on the Road, Darrell From aribert at c3net.net Wed Jun 22 12:29:27 2011 From: aribert at c3net.net (aribert at c3net.net) Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2011 14:29:27 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Shaking TR3 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8eece060cb598b098fa8ca8a8425b9dc.squirrel@server6.glis.net> Last year my other (non Triumph, early '60s Ford) summer vehicle developed a bad "driveline" vibration (note: no steering wheel shake). It took me 3 weeks of trying to find it before I replaced the ***front*** wheel bearings (there was no bearing backlash when grabbing the wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock, rotated smoothly (no worn bearing rumble) by hand with the old bearings). Problem solved. I could have saved some money, and very precious time if I did this first before having a new drive shaft made, replacing the rear axle bearings, rotating wheels, shimming the rear axle (pinion angle),... > The tires are nearly new. I've put about 100,000 miles on the car and > gone through several sets of tires and it doesn't seem to make a > difference. > The last set was on new SS wire wheels and balanced by British Wire Wheel. > I changed from original steel wheels to SS wires and it didn't seem to > change > anything, except the good looks. > I drove my neighbors TR3A (which used to > be mine in boxes in the 90's) and it definitely rides smoother at freeway > speeds. > A new driveshaft from MOSS didn't change anything either, > although I still will take it in to be balanced, just to be sure. > My next > move will be to change the wheel bearings, balance the driveshaft and see > if I > can find someone who spin balances wheels and tires on the car. > > -Bill in > Tehachapi > > > Subject: Re: [TR] Shaking TR3 > Message-ID: > > <1960450668.168676.1308675891057.JavaMail.root at sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.com > cast.net> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 > > Are you sure your tires > are round? I suddenly picked up a vibration in my truck. Checked the > tires > and there is a high area in the middle of the tread on the right rear. > Sudden > appearance of this must be a belt failure or tread separation. I was > planning > on replacing the tires before the VTR convention trip in August, but this > makes it immediate. I'm having a new set of Michelins put on tonight. > The > BFGs lasted OK through two trucks, but the Micks get great reviews. > > > > Phil > Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jun 22 12:57:19 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2011 11:57:19 -0700 Subject: [TR] Side of the Road In-Reply-To: <37453.9d52de0.3b33867e@aol.com> References: <37453.9d52de0.3b33867e@aol.com> Message-ID: <02df01cc310e$36c64b50$a452e1f0$@rr.com> > There was a bunch of black junk in the old filter. Rich was talking > of > the horrors of ethanol added to gas ruining all the rubber fuel lines. > He > referred to some braided lines that were available and may be the > solution. > Anyone know about those or any other fix? That's old news in CA, we've had "oxygenated" fuel since 1995 or so. My opinion, all soft fuel lines should be replaced every 10-15 years whether they need it or not. And pretty much any soft fuel line sold in the US today will stand up to ethanol. IOW, just go to your FLAPS and pick up some ordinary 1/4" and 5/16" fuel line. Don't forget the soft lines at the fuel tank, if your car has them. I'm also fond of the all-stainless steel hose clamps available from MMC. The ones usually sold for automotive use advertise that they are SS, but in fact the screw is cad plated mild steel that will eventually rust. Another problem, if your AC pump has not been rebuilt recently, is that the old diaphragms will not stand up to ethanol/MTBE. Might be worth replacing as well. Even though the price is quite a bit higher, I was very pleased with the quality of the kit from TRF, and it had the shaft seal that is frequently missing from the other kits. -- Randall From arakelianp at mossmotors.com Wed Jun 22 13:29:14 2011 From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Pete Arakelian) Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2011 12:29:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] Side of the Road Message-ID: <4D4FABA15328FC42B1AA0DEE4673548C071BA443F3@DR-EX-04.datacenter.dataresolution.net> < horrors of ethanol added to gas ruining all the rubber fuel lines> There are fuel lines now available that are designed to resist the new formulations. Peter - 71 TR6 From arakelianp at mossmotors.com Wed Jun 22 13:30:31 2011 From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Pete Arakelian) Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2011 12:30:31 -0700 Subject: [TR] new oil infor Message-ID: <4D4FABA15328FC42B1AA0DEE4673548C071BA443F4@DR-EX-04.datacenter.dataresolution.net> There are also several other brands available as well as ZDDP additives. Peter - 71 TR6 From thenicholls at verizon.net Wed Jun 22 13:52:23 2011 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2011 14:52:23 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Side of the Road Message-ID: <1194390534.2013409.1308772343260.JavaMail.root@vznit170074> You can buy enthanol proof hoses at your local auto parts store or Moss sells the different sizes by the foot. I went the Moss route and replaced all the rubber hoses related to fuel on my TR6. Nice to have friends. Craig 1972 Triumph TR6 VA Jun 22, 2011 02:37:10 PM, TR250Driver at aol.com wrote: Guys, The TR4 took me to the side of the road, Route 30 in OHIO, coming home from the TRA National Meeting in Ft Wayne, Indiana. In fact I was there several times. Out in the middle of no where on a Sunday. She would run for a half mile or so and then slowly die. First I tried to trouble shoot electrics with no success then I opened the tops of the SU's to find them dry. I looked at Beverly and told her we were most likely toast. It was weird, the fuel pump was pumping gas as I disconnected the line, the Four would sit for 5 to 10 minutes, then fire up normally but would only go a 1/2 mile before running out of gas again. I was ready to give up and call for a Hook when the calvary arrived in the form of Pat Davis, hauling his TR2, his Buddy Rich (no not he famous drummer) hauling a TR4, my friend John Nelson and Jim Shear both driving TR6's. They were all then on the side of the road as well. Pat was the fire plug. We are going to get this puppy going again he was saying over and over. I was skeptical, thinking that the AC fuel pump had gone south. Rich had a spare fuel filter and Pat was insistent that we get out of the way and let him install it. THANK YOU Pat! Bingo! The Four fired up and I never looked back the 90 miles to home. We often talk about it. True Triumph Friends are of great value to each other. None of the four who stopped were going to leave me on the side of the road until we had tried all on the spot remedies available. Thanks again to all. There was a bunch of black junk in the old filter. Rich was talking of the horrors of ethanol added to gas ruining all the rubber fuel lines. He referred to some braided lines that were available and may be the solution. Anyone know about those or any other fix? As a side issue I filled up before I left at a BP station. Premium 93. The pump was so slow it must have taken 15 minutes to fill up. I wonder if I was pumping a bunch of black junk from the bottom of their tank. See you Guys on the Road, Darrell triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net From thenicholls at verizon.net Wed Jun 22 13:54:22 2011 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2011 14:54:22 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Side of the Road Message-ID: <90572900.2013544.1308772462920.JavaMail.root@vznit170074> I knew Randall would get in here before I sent my email, as a follow-up, I sent my AC fuel pump to TRF and they rebuilt it for around $90. Looks brand new. Craig 1972 Triumph TR6 VA Jun 22, 2011 03:42:36 PM, tr3driver at ca.rr.com wrote: > There was a bunch of black junk in the old filter. Rich was talking > of > the horrors of ethanol added to gas ruining all the rubber fuel lines. > He > referred to some braided lines that were available and may be the > solution. > Anyone know about those or any other fix? That's old news in CA, we've had "oxygenated" fuel since 1995 or so. My opinion, all soft fuel lines should be replaced every 10-15 years whether they need it or not. And pretty much any soft fuel line sold in the US today will stand up to ethanol. IOW, just go to your FLAPS and pick up some ordinary 1/4" and 5/16" fuel line. Don't forget the soft lines at the fuel tank, if your car has them. I'm also fond of the all-stainless steel hose clamps available from MMC. The ones usually sold for automotive use advertise that they are SS, but in fact the screw is cad plated mild steel that will eventually rust. Another problem, if your AC pump has not been rebuilt recently, is that the old diaphragms will not stand up to ethanol/MTBE. Might be worth replacing as well. Even though the price is quite a bit higher, I was very pleased with the quality of the kit from TRF, and it had the shaft seal that is frequently missing from the other kits. -- Randall triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net From eoot at citlink.net Wed Jun 22 14:19:41 2011 From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot) Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2011 16:19:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] Side of the Road References: <37453.9d52de0.3b33867e@aol.com> Message-ID: Darrell, Glad the troops showed and a remedy was implemented. It's never fun out there by yourself when the solution isn't forth coming. It's a fact that no Triumph driver will pass another by the side of the road. We made it the 600 miles home, although not without some "concern". I have the case of disappearing coolant. Had to add about a gallon and a half at different points along the return trip. The car never really threatened to overheat, even up those long pulls in the mountains. As yet I still don't know where the coolant is going, but the loss seemed to slow after turning off the heater valve, so I'll start with that run. Glad all are home safely Ed ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2011 1:55 PM Subject: [TR] Side of the Road > Guys, > The TR4 took me to the side of the road, Route 30 in OHIO, coming home > from > the TRA National Meeting in Ft Wayne, Indiana. In fact I was there > several times. Out in the middle of no where on a Sunday. She would run > for a > half mile or so and then slowly die. First I tried to trouble shoot > electrics with no success then I opened the tops of the SU's to find them > dry. I > looked at Beverly and told her we were most likely toast. It was weird, > the fuel pump was pumping gas as I disconnected the line, the Four would > sit > for 5 to 10 minutes, then fire up normally but would only go a 1/2 mile > before running out of gas again. > > I was ready to give up and call for a Hook when the calvary arrived in the > form of Pat Davis, hauling his TR2, his Buddy Rich (no not he famous > drummer) hauling a TR4, my friend John Nelson and Jim Shear both driving > TR6's. > They were all then on the side of the road as well. > > Pat was the fire plug. We are going to get this puppy going again he was > saying over and over. I was skeptical, thinking that the AC fuel pump > had > gone south. Rich had a spare fuel filter and Pat was insistent that we > get > out of the way and let him install it. THANK YOU Pat! Bingo! The Four > fired up and I never looked back the 90 miles to home. > > We often talk about it. True Triumph Friends are of great value to each > other. None of the four who stopped were going to leave me on the side of > the road until we had tried all on the spot remedies available. Thanks > again > to all. > > There was a bunch of black junk in the old filter. Rich was talking of > the horrors of ethanol added to gas ruining all the rubber fuel lines. He > referred to some braided lines that were available and may be the > solution. > Anyone know about those or any other fix? > > As a side issue I filled up before I left at a BP station. Premium 93. > The pump was so slow it must have taken 15 minutes to fill up. I wonder > if > I was pumping a bunch of black junk from the bottom of their tank. > > See you Guys on the Road, > Darrell > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/eoot at citlink.net From spitlist at cox.net Wed Jun 22 14:29:21 2011 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2011 13:29:21 -0700 Subject: [TR] Side of the Road In-Reply-To: <1194390534.2013409.1308772343260.JavaMail.root@vznit170074> References: <1194390534.2013409.1308772343260.JavaMail.root@vznit170074> Message-ID: <13C6566F3A5D446F8EF74B8EAC7DF79D@Vista> When I went to the VTR convention in San Luis Obispo a couple of years ago, I developed a fuel leak. It turned out that the EFI hoses I was using between the steel lines were being eaten up by the alcohol in the fuel. I did some research and came up with Teflon lined hoses. They are quite more expensive than the standard rubber hoses and a bit more difficult to stretch over the nipples, but they are well worth the trouble and expense. No problems at all since I replaced then. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of thenicholls at verizon.net Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2011 12:52 PM To: TR250Driver at aol.com Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Side of the Road You can buy enthanol proof hoses at your local auto parts store or Moss sells the different sizes by the foot. I went the Moss route and replaced all the rubber hoses related to fuel on my TR6. Nice to have friends. Craig 1972 Triumph TR6 VA Jun 22, 2011 02:37:10 PM, TR250Driver at aol.com wrote: Guys, The TR4 took me to the side of the road, Route 30 in OHIO, coming home from the TRA National Meeting in Ft Wayne, Indiana. In fact I was there several times. Out in the middle of no where on a Sunday. She would run for a half mile or so and then slowly die. First I tried to trouble shoot electrics with no success then I opened the tops of the SU's to find them dry. I looked at Beverly and told her we were most likely toast. It was weird, the fuel pump was pumping gas as I disconnected the line, the Four would sit for 5 to 10 minutes, then fire up normally but would only go a 1/2 mile before running out of gas again. I was ready to give up and call for a Hook when the calvary arrived in the form of Pat Davis, hauling his TR2, his Buddy Rich (no not he famous drummer) hauling a TR4, my friend John Nelson and Jim Shear both driving TR6's. They were all then on the side of the road as well. Pat was the fire plug. We are going to get this puppy going again he was saying over and over. I was skeptical, thinking that the AC fuel pump had gone south. Rich had a spare fuel filter and Pat was insistent that we get out of the way and let him install it. THANK YOU Pat! Bingo! The Four fired up and I never looked back the 90 miles to home. We often talk about it. True Triumph Friends are of great value to each other. None of the four who stopped were going to leave me on the side of the road until we had tried all on the spot remedies available. Thanks again to all. There was a bunch of black junk in the old filter. Rich was talking of the horrors of ethanol added to gas ruining all the rubber fuel lines. He referred to some braided lines that were available and may be the solution. Anyone know about those or any other fix? As a side issue I filled up before I left at a BP station. Premium 93. The pump was so slow it must have taken 15 minutes to fill up. I wonder if I was pumping a bunch of black junk from the bottom of their tank. See you Guys on the Road, Darrell triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/thenicholls at verizon.net triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spitlist at cox.net From trguy at cfl.rr.com Wed Jun 22 15:00:27 2011 From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen) Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2011 17:00:27 -0400 Subject: [TR] Side of the Road In-Reply-To: <37453.9d52de0.3b33867e@aol.com> References: <37453.9d52de0.3b33867e@aol.com> Message-ID: <6B982F607FEA453D8A3424928676C37F@TRGUY> Darrell: That's one of the best things about our triumph group! They are always willing to help on eanother when in need. Sorry to hear your beautiful TR4 cut out on you and glad you got her running without to much hassle. Cheers, Jim Henningsen 62 TR4 75 TR6 ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2011 1:55 PM Subject: [TR] Side of the Road > Guys, > The TR4 took me to the side of the road, Route 30 in OHIO, coming home > from > the TRA National Meeting in Ft Wayne, Indiana. In fact I was there > several times. Out in the middle of no where on a Sunday. She would run > for a > half mile or so and then slowly die. First I tried to trouble shoot > electrics with no success then I opened the tops of the SU's to find them > dry. I > looked at Beverly and told her we were most likely toast. It was weird, > the fuel pump was pumping gas as I disconnected the line, the Four would > sit > for 5 to 10 minutes, then fire up normally but would only go a 1/2 mile > before running out of gas again. > > I was ready to give up and call for a Hook when the calvary arrived in the > form of Pat Davis, hauling his TR2, his Buddy Rich (no not he famous > drummer) hauling a TR4, my friend John Nelson and Jim Shear both driving > TR6's. > They were all then on the side of the road as well. > > Pat was the fire plug. We are going to get this puppy going again he was > saying over and over. I was skeptical, thinking that the AC fuel pump > had > gone south. Rich had a spare fuel filter and Pat was insistent that we > get > out of the way and let him install it. THANK YOU Pat! Bingo! The Four > fired up and I never looked back the 90 miles to home. > > We often talk about it. True Triumph Friends are of great value to each > other. None of the four who stopped were going to leave me on the side of > the road until we had tried all on the spot remedies available. Thanks > again > to all. > > There was a bunch of black junk in the old filter. Rich was talking of > the horrors of ethanol added to gas ruining all the rubber fuel lines. He > referred to some braided lines that were available and may be the > solution. > Anyone know about those or any other fix? > > As a side issue I filled up before I left at a BP station. Premium 93. > The pump was so slow it must have taken 15 minutes to fill up. I wonder > if > I was pumping a bunch of black junk from the bottom of their tank. > > See you Guys on the Road, > Darrell > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trguy at cfl.rr.com From tencate at mac.com Wed Jun 22 15:17:02 2011 From: tencate at mac.com (tencate) Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2011 21:17:02 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] Side of the Road In-Reply-To: <13C6566F3A5D446F8EF74B8EAC7DF79D@Vista> Message-ID: and those little sections of rubber hoses INSIDE the gas tank of the TR8s with Z-S carbs MUST be 30R10 spec hose, capable of being completely submersed in ethanol blended fuels. $30 a foot stuff, special order. What happens to the original hose piece? It swells and pretty soon the pump can't pump fuel through that hose and out the outlet! Typical TR8 owner response is crap, the fuel pump in the tank died, I'll just put on an external pump. In reality, the pump is probably fine, happily pumping gas around in the tank going nowhere while the external pump sucks out what it needs. I've replaced all the rubber high pressure hoses on my fuelie TR8s too, including the ones feeding the injectors with "mutli-fuel" compatible hose. About $7 a foot for the high pressure kind. Leaking fuel in the injected TR8s---likely because of ethanol issues---have been suspected in more than a few engine fires! The TR8 L-Jet fuel pressure is around 32 psi and as high as 40 psi. Be safe, just go and replace all that fuel line! Jim From keithstewart at execulink.com Wed Jun 22 15:48:39 2011 From: keithstewart at execulink.com (Keith Stewart) Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2011 17:48:39 -0400 Subject: [TR] sure miss In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I hear you Ronnie. I often think of Fred - and his terrible jokes that he forgot he told me before :-) Summer Party will not be the same without him this year. But we will all remember. I know once we are there, I will miss him even more. Other than the TRF staff, he was always the first one I went looking for. Keith R. Stewart 75 Camden Road London, Ontario N5X 2K2 Home: (519) 660-1916 E-Mail: keithstewart at execulink.com On 2011-06-22, at 11:21 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > Subject: [TR] I sure miss > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > I sure do miss talking to my ole buddy, I had Freds number programed as a > speed dial F, not "F" for Fred but for Fred ole fart. > > Ronnie From trguy at cfl.rr.com Wed Jun 22 16:29:40 2011 From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen) Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2011 18:29:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] Hardtop storage carrier In-Reply-To: <1017962637.1942383.1308703603428.JavaMail.root@vznit170128> References: <1017962637.1942383.1308703603428.JavaMail.root@vznit170128> Message-ID: <592F808647F04C80BC299F2C4B4A7C4D@TRGUY> I used that plan also and it works great and was a piece of cake to build! Rolls around the garage sitting proud and pretty! Jim Henningsen 62 TR4 (hardtop) 75 TR6 (hardtop) Maitland, FL ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2011 8:46 PM Subject: [TR] Hardtop storage carrier > Just wanted to pass this onto the list, I may have seen it on the list, > hard to remember. > > For 5 years I have struggled with how to store my steel hardtop for my > TR6. Looked into carriers, hoists, all kinds of stuff that was expensive. > It sat in the corner of my garage on a blanket and covered by a blanket. > > I saw Paul's website at: http://www.74tr6.com/hardtopcarrier.htm > > This solution was so simple, I used the orignal design, I have no need to > move it around. Used some wood laying around and one trip to Home Depot, > probably cost me $25. > > Just wanted to pass this on to you hardtop owners out there. > > Thanks Paul, > > Craig H. Nicholls > 1972 Triumph TR6 > Vienna, VA > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trguy at cfl.rr.com From rjones at wfeca.net Wed Jun 22 17:29:02 2011 From: rjones at wfeca.net (Robert Jones) Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2011 19:29:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] Side of the Road In-Reply-To: <6B982F607FEA453D8A3424928676C37F@TRGUY> References: <37453.9d52de0.3b33867e@aol.com> <6B982F607FEA453D8A3424928676C37F@TRGUY> Message-ID: <795D4BC6-384D-4757-8341-B928E311461D@wfeca.net> Darrell: This happened to me twice, once going and once coming, on my Roadster Factory Summer Party last year. Got a new fuel tank from VB when I got home. Rarely do I get anything from anyone other than TRF for the Triumph, but the VB gas tank was the only economical tank I could find. TRF doesn't carry (or didn't ) anything in stock. If the trash is coming from the tank, the best thing to do is replace it. Bob On Jun 22, 2011, at 5:00 PM, James Henningsen wrote: > Darrell: > That's one of the best things about our triumph group! They are always willing to help on eanother when in need. Sorry to hear your beautiful TR4 cut out on you and glad you got her running without to much hassle. > Cheers, > Jim Henningsen > 62 TR4 > 75 TR6 > > ----- Original Message ----- From: > To: > Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2011 1:55 PM > Subject: [TR] Side of the Road > > >> Guys, >> The TR4 took me to the side of the road, Route 30 in OHIO, coming home from >> the TRA National Meeting in Ft Wayne, Indiana. In fact I was there >> several times. Out in the middle of no where on a Sunday. She would run for a >> half mile or so and then slowly die. First I tried to trouble shoot >> electrics with no success then I opened the tops of the SU's to find them dry. I >> looked at Beverly and told her we were most likely toast. It was weird, >> the fuel pump was pumping gas as I disconnected the line, the Four would sit >> for 5 to 10 minutes, then fire up normally but would only go a 1/2 mile >> before running out of gas again. >> >> I was ready to give up and call for a Hook when the calvary arrived in the >> form of Pat Davis, hauling his TR2, his Buddy Rich (no not he famous >> drummer) hauling a TR4, my friend John Nelson and Jim Shear both driving TR6's. >> They were all then on the side of the road as well. >> >> Pat was the fire plug. We are going to get this puppy going again he was >> saying over and over. I was skeptical, thinking that the AC fuel pump had >> gone south. Rich had a spare fuel filter and Pat was insistent that we get >> out of the way and let him install it. THANK YOU Pat! Bingo! The Four >> fired up and I never looked back the 90 miles to home. >> >> We often talk about it. True Triumph Friends are of great value to each >> other. None of the four who stopped were going to leave me on the side of >> the road until we had tried all on the spot remedies available. Thanks again >> to all. >> >> There was a bunch of black junk in the old filter. Rich was talking of >> the horrors of ethanol added to gas ruining all the rubber fuel lines. He >> referred to some braided lines that were available and may be the solution. >> Anyone know about those or any other fix? >> >> As a side issue I filled up before I left at a BP station. Premium 93. >> The pump was so slow it must have taken 15 minutes to fill up. I wonder if >> I was pumping a bunch of black junk from the bottom of their tank. >> >> See you Guys on the Road, >> Darrell >> >> >> triumphs at autox.team.net >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trguy at cfl.rr.com > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/rjones at wfeca.net From zoboherald at aol.com Wed Jun 22 18:14:34 2011 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace) Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2011 20:14:34 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Shaking TR3 In-Reply-To: <8eece060cb598b098fa8ca8a8425b9dc.squirrel@server6.glis.net> References: <8eece060cb598b098fa8ca8a8425b9dc.squirrel@server6.glis.net> Message-ID: <8CDFF51AA21FFC3-2B94-5E419@webmail-m139.sysops.aol.com> I've been through exactly the same thing twice in the last nine years with my Herald! Earlier, it was a failing outer LH front wheel bearing, and this past spring it was a failing inner LH front wheel bearing. --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us -----Original Message----- From: aribert Last year my other (non Triumph, early '60s Ford) summer vehicle developed a bad "driveline" vibration (note: no steering wheel shake). It took me 3 weeks of trying to find it before I replaced the ***front*** wheel bearings .... From TR250Driver at aol.com Wed Jun 22 18:21:08 2011 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2011 20:21:08 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Side of the Road Message-ID: <47dbf.37a09050.3b33e0f4@aol.com> In a message dated 6/22/2011 4:19:35 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, eoot at citlink.net writes: It's a fact that no Triumph driver will pass another by the side of the road. That is the fact. I was ready for the hook till they arrived. I had called my son in law and told him to prepare to hook up the trailer to come to get us. If not for the Triumph Cavalry. I was toast. I had no spare fuel filter but you can bet I will put one in the glove box for future trips. Darrell From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jun 22 18:58:58 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2011 17:58:58 -0700 Subject: [TR] Side of the Road In-Reply-To: <47dbf.37a09050.3b33e0f4@aol.com> References: <47dbf.37a09050.3b33e0f4@aol.com> Message-ID: <033601cc3140$bc221540$34663fc0$@rr.com> > I had no spare fuel > filter but you can bet I will put one in the glove box for future > trips. If it was a modern paper element filter, then you can limp home just by driving a screwdriver or similar object through the center of the filter. BTDT. But in my experience the stock setup with the screen & sediment bowl actually works pretty good. Adding a paper element filter does nothing for reliability, IMO (as you found out). I did finally add a paper element filter to my TR3, but only because we get a lot of extremely fine sand/dust around here (blown in from the desert), and I was concerned about its long-term effect on the cylinder walls. But the 3A never had one, and never had a problem with it -- Randall From tjwakeman at gmail.com Wed Jun 22 19:01:47 2011 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2011 18:01:47 -0700 Subject: [TR] Side of the Road In-Reply-To: <47dbf.37a09050.3b33e0f4@aol.com> References: <47dbf.37a09050.3b33e0f4@aol.com> Message-ID: <4E02907B.80706@gmail.com> My TR3 coasted off to the side of the road last Saturday, about 500 miles from home. Thankfully I quickly narrowed it down to a highly probable bad condenser and had a spare in the boot plus the right tools. I was back on the road in about a half hour or less from stopping. I always carry a complete set of hoses, distributor parts and a new fuel filter. Teriann From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jun 22 20:49:08 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2011 19:49:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] Side of the Road In-Reply-To: <4E02907B.80706@gmail.com> References: <47dbf.37a09050.3b33e0f4@aol.com> <4E02907B.80706@gmail.com> Message-ID: <035e01cc3150$205bbed0$61133c70$@rr.com> What a coincidence. My TR3's condenser died yesterday, while I was hurrying to the shop to pick up the other car. But I was basically stopped in the #1 lane in LA rush hour traffic, so I walked it to the shoulder on the starter. Wouldn't say it was quick, but I was back on the road in about a half hour. Darnedest thing, I could draw a 1/4" spark off the coil terminal, but nothing from the plug wires. But changing the condenser fixed it. Shop closed at 5:00, I got there at 4:59, so I even got to pick up the other car (which had died the day before!) -- Randall From tony at tonydrews.com Wed Jun 22 20:56:05 2011 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2011 21:56:05 -0500 Subject: [TR] Side of the Road In-Reply-To: <47dbf.37a09050.3b33e0f4@aol.com> References: <47dbf.37a09050.3b33e0f4@aol.com> Message-ID: <20110623025624.0AEFC187659@autox.team.net> Years ago in my VW Beetle I had the fuel filter clog. All I had was a pocketknife and a coat hanger. I used the pocketknife to take the fuel filter loose, and the coat hanger to poke a hole through it. Put it back (not much of a filter anymore) and it worked fine until I could get it replaced. Tony Drews At 07:21 PM 6/22/2011, TR250Driver at aol.com wrote: >In a message dated 6/22/2011 4:19:35 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, >eoot at citlink.net writes: > >It's a fact that no >Triumph driver will pass another by the side of the road. > >That is the fact. I was ready for the hook till they arrived. I had >called my son in law and told him to prepare to hook up the trailer >to come to >get us. If not for the Triumph Cavalry. I was toast. I had no spare fuel >filter but you can bet I will put one in the glove box for future trips. >Darrell > > >triumphs at autox.team.net > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk Thu Jun 23 02:55:05 2011 From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2011 09:55:05 +0100 (BST) Subject: [TR] Side of the road Message-ID: <1308819305.97592.YahooMailNeo@web28305.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> There's an enormous amount of crud that gets pumped into our cars from fuel stations. The crud *ought* to be stopped by the delivery pump filters - but often it isn't. Checking into my log book, I see that there were five fuel filter changes on "uncle jack" (TTACD Stag) in the 17,000 miles covered between July and October 2009. Each time, the colour of the sediment was different and this leaves me to think it was from the 640 odd gallons that went through the tank, rather than what the fuel picked up while it was in it. In the same way, I fought a losing battle with the retailer when I bought a tankful of diesel that had more than one pint of water in it!!!!!!!!!! Jonmac From trguy at cfl.rr.com Thu Jun 23 04:52:36 2011 From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen) Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2011 06:52:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 in Print In-Reply-To: <795D4BC6-384D-4757-8341-B928E311461D@wfeca.net> References: <37453.9d52de0.3b33867e@aol.com><6B982F607FEA453D8A3424928676C37F@TRGUY> <795D4BC6-384D-4757-8341-B928E311461D@wfeca.net> Message-ID: Thought you might enjoy seeing the recent Lands End Kids catalog with a nice shiny red TR4 on the cover and a picture inside of it getting washed by the kids. I believe that is the very rare surfboard option in the car. Don't know if I'd leave them unsupervised for that wash :) http://gallery.me.com/jeannebch#100492 Jim Henningsen 62 TR4 75 TR6 Maitland, FL From jimmuller at rcn.com Thu Jun 23 05:22:16 2011 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2011 07:22:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 in Print In-Reply-To: References: <795D4BC6-384D-4757-8341-B928E311461D@wfeca.net> Message-ID: <4E02E9A8.6311.24C522B@localhost> On 23 Jun 2011 at 6:52, James Henningsen wrote: > Thought you might enjoy seeing the recent Lands End Kids catalog... > Don't know if I'd leave them unsupervised for that wash :) Oh yeah, I always wash my car with the top down. :-) -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Thu Jun 23 09:23:20 2011 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2011 08:23:20 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 tight steering and decals Message-ID: <903533.26064.qm@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> friends TR3 recently rebuilt has very tight steering. did not rebuild the steering box. all other components are new. Joe Alexander nylon bushings. when driving if you turn the wheel to the left or right, it does not self center but will stay turning in the direction you have selected. from minor turns to full lock. with the car on axle stands you can turn the wheels from lock to lock by hand reasonably easy. he also has a windshield decal from when he was driving the car in high school in the 70's. the need to replace the cracked windshield forced him to remove it. he would like to re-install it on his new glass but its old and lost its adhesive qualities. has any one found an adhesive that works good? and looks good. thanks Frank From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk Thu Jun 23 09:48:11 2011 From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2011 16:48:11 +0100 (BST) Subject: [TR] Originality issues Message-ID: <1308844091.33032.YahooMailNeo@web28305.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Hi, List I've been asked to put an article together for a magazine about why many people are so committed to *originality* while (probably?) an equally large number are not? We've got a diversity of views here in the UK and I'd be interested in having those from North America as well. If *originality* is important to you, I'd be very interested to learn your thoughts - and why. Equally, if it doesn't matter - or you're ambivalent about the whole subject anyway, I'd be equally in learning those thoughts too - and why. In order to save cluttering the list with replies, I think everyone would appreciate the general subject as being 'off-topic' so replies to me please off-list. Thanks - and cheers Jonmac From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Thu Jun 23 10:05:05 2011 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2011 09:05:05 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 tight steering and decals In-Reply-To: <903533.26064.qm@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <903533.26064.qm@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: On Thu, Jun 23, 2011 at 8:23 AM, Frank Fisher wrote: > friends TR3 recently rebuilt has very tight steering. I would start by adjusting that lock screw fitting on the top of the box that controls how deep the peg enters the cam -- sounds like it may have been overtightened. Should steer very very easily with the wheels up. After you loosen then adjust tighter usually the first sign of binding will occur at the extremes of turning (less wear there) you do not want any binding. I can't say my TR3A strsightens out smartly coming out of a turn -- it wants to go straight but the wheel doesn't return quickly on its own. Don't know if that is typical. > he also has a windshield decal from when he > was driving the car in high school > in the 70's. Whatever you do try -- I would first take a really good high resolution digital photo of it -- then if it is ruined in the attempt you can easily get a new one made. Geo From davidt at opentext.com Thu Jun 23 10:20:21 2011 From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton) Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2011 12:20:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] FI gt6 engine Message-ID: Hi all, There was someone on the lists that had taken the top of the zenith carb for a GT6 engine and replaced it with a milled aluminum insert to do fuel injection. I recall it looked almost stock and was clean. Does anyone recall this and who, how, where I can source this? Thanks in advance David Templeton '74 Spitsix '59 tr3a From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Thu Jun 23 10:28:53 2011 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2011 09:28:53 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 tight steering and decals In-Reply-To: References: <903533.26064.qm@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <12026.85824.qm@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> done the lock screw on top of the box thing. it is certainly "stiffer" than my TR3, my buddy Paul's TR3 and the TR3 that i drove belonging to a club member. it does not even show any signs of straighting out from a turn. if fact its a good pull to get it straight. its way too stiff ________________________________ From: Geo Hahn To: Frank Fisher Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, June 23, 2011 9:05:05 AM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 tight steering and decals On Thu, Jun 23, 2011 at 8:23 AM, Frank Fisher wrote: friends TR3 recently rebuilt has very tight steering. I would start by adjusting that lock screw fitting on the top of the box that controls how deep the peg enters the cam -- sounds like it may have been overtightened. Should steer very very easily with the wheels up. After you loosen then adjust tighter usually the first sign of binding will occur at the extremes of turning (less wear there) you do not want any binding. I can't say my TR3A strsightens out smartly coming out of a turn -- it wants to go straight but the wheel doesn't return quickly on its own. Don't know if that is typical. he also has a windshield decal from when he >was driving the car in high school >in the 70's. Whatever you do try -- I would first take a really good high resolution digital photo of it -- then if it is ruined in the attempt you can easily get a new one made. Geo From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Thu Jun 23 10:44:23 2011 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2011 09:44:23 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] FI gt6 engine In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <436255.93813.qm@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> i think it was good guy Bob Danielson. he is on this list and im sure he will contact you soon. try his web site at http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/ Frank ________________________________ From: David Templeton To: triumphs at autox.team.net; nass at yahoogroups.com Sent: Thu, June 23, 2011 9:20:21 AM Subject: [TR] FI gt6 engine Hi all, There was someone on the lists that had taken the top of the zenith carb for a GT6 engine and replaced it with a milled aluminum insert to do fuel injection. I recall it looked almost stock and was clean. Does anyone recall this and who, how, where I can source this? Thanks in advance David Templeton '74 Spitsix '59 tr3a triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From trglory at verizon.net Thu Jun 23 11:02:23 2011 From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito) Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2011 13:02:23 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 tight steering and decals In-Reply-To: <12026.85824.qm@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <903533.26064.qm@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <12026.85824.qm@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <001b01cc31c7$52ecb800$f8c62800$@net> Is there any lube oil in the steering box? Joe Laurito -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Fisher Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2011 12:29 PM To: Geo Hahn Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 tight steering and decals done the lock screw on top of the box thing. it is certainly "stiffer" than my TR3, my buddy Paul's TR3 and the TR3 that i drove belonging to a club member. it does not even show any signs of straighting out from a turn. if fact its a good pull to get it straight. its way too stiff ________________________________ From tgeiger at geigergarage.com Thu Jun 23 11:17:47 2011 From: tgeiger at geigergarage.com (Terry Geiger) Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2011 12:17:47 -0500 Subject: [TR] FI gt6 engine In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <001301cc31c9$7b649a80$722dcf80$@geigergarage.com> Rick Patton is who you are looking for. See URL below. http://www.pattonmachine.com/ http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/TBI.htm Terry Geiger www.GeigerGarage.com -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Templeton Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2011 11:20 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; nass at yahoogroups.com Subject: [TR] FI gt6 engine Hi all, There was someone on the lists that had taken the top of the zenith carb for a GT6 engine and replaced it with a milled aluminum insert to do fuel injection. I recall it looked almost stock and was clean. Does anyone recall this and who, how, where I can source this? Thanks in advance David Templeton '74 Spitsix '59 tr3a triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tgeiger at geigergarage.com From pethier at comcast.net Thu Jun 23 11:26:05 2011 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2011 17:26:05 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Originality issues In-Reply-To: <1308844091.33032.YahooMailNeo@web28305.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1518813571.68255.1308849965299.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Heck, originality discussions litter these lists often enough that they are on-topic. In my opinion, the importance of originality seems to be a function of the rarity of the car and the condition you find it in. My Europa was not all that original. No point in trying to restore it to originality. It would cost more many times over than an original Europa is worth. I kept the TR4 largely original because it was as easy as not doing so. I plan no changes to uncle jack, as Joe and the ISOA gang got it pretty right the first time. I'm keeping your high-tech radio, even though I never listen to it... Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack" 2004 Suburban 8.1 2005 Lotus Elise 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://www.mnautox.com ----- Original Message ----- > From: "John Macartney" > To: "Triumph List" > Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2011 10:48:11 AM > Subject: [TR] Originality issues > Hi, List > > I've been asked to put an article together for a magazine about > why many people are so committed to *originality* while (probably?) an > equally > large number are not? We've got a diversity of views here in the UK > and I'd be > interested in having those from North America as well. > If *originality* is > important to you, I'd be very interested to learn your thoughts - and > why. > Equally, if it doesn't matter - or you're ambivalent about the whole > subject > anyway, I'd be equally in learning those thoughts too - and why. > In order to > save cluttering the list with replies, I think everyone would > appreciate the > general subject as being 'off-topic' so replies to me please off-list. > Thanks > - and cheers > > Jonmac > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Thu Jun 23 11:31:57 2011 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2011 13:31:57 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 tight steering and decals In-Reply-To: <12026.85824.qm@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <903533.26064.qm@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>, , <12026.85824.qm@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: > done the lock screw on top of the box thing. > it is certainly "stiffer" than my > TR3, my buddy Paul's TR3 and the TR3 that i > drove belonging to a club member. > it does not even show any signs of straighting out from a turn. if fact its a > good pull to get it straight. > its way too stiff Frank, is it a two-piece column? If so, the two pieces must align with each other exactly or the steering will be quite stiff. There are adjustments on both the unit mount and the upper shaft for doing this. Kinda fiddly, but necessary. I put the coupler on one side and pull the upper column out, the slide it into the coupler as I watch. If the coupler moves, I adjust and try again. And again. Until the coupler is stationary when the shaft slides in. John H. From emanteno at comcast.net Thu Jun 23 11:38:28 2011 From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey) Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2011 12:38:28 -0500 Subject: [TR] FI gt6 engine In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On Thu, Jun 23, 2011 at 11:20 AM, David Templeton wrote: > Hi all, > > There was someone on the lists that had taken the top of the zenith carb > for a GT6 engine and replaced it with a milled aluminum insert to do > fuel injection. I recall it looked almost stock and was clean. Does > anyone recall this and who, how, where I can source this? > The guy doing this is Rick Patton. Here is the link. http://www.pattonmachine.com/TBIComponents.htm NFI. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Thu Jun 23 11:41:28 2011 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2011 10:41:28 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 tight steering and decals In-Reply-To: <001b01cc31c7$52ecb800$f8c62800$@net> References: <903533.26064.qm@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <12026.85824.qm@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <001b01cc31c7$52ecb800$f8c62800$@net> Message-ID: <590334.94861.qm@web120203.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> yes thank you ________________________________ From: Joe Laurito To: Frank Fisher ; Geo Hahn Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, June 23, 2011 10:02:23 AM Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 tight steering and decals Is there any lube oil in the steering box? Joe Laurito -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Fisher Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2011 12:29 PM To: Geo Hahn Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 tight steering and decals done the lock screw on top of the box thing. it is certainly "stiffer" than my TR3, my buddy Paul's TR3 and the TR3 that i drove belonging to a club member. it does not even show any signs of straighting out from a turn. if fact its a good pull to get it straight. its way too stiff ________________________________ From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Thu Jun 23 11:46:09 2011 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2011 10:46:09 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 tight steering and decals In-Reply-To: References: <903533.26064.qm@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>, , <12026.85824.qm@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <335132.3813.qm@web120217.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> ah ha yes it is a 2 piece column ________________________________ From: John Herrera To: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com; ahwahneetr at gmail.com Cc: Triumph List Sent: Thu, June 23, 2011 10:31:57 AM Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 tight steering and decals > done the lock screw on top of the box thing. > it is certainly "stiffer" than my > TR3, my buddy Paul's TR3 and the TR3 that i > drove belonging to a club member. > it does not even show any signs of straighting out from a turn. if fact its a > good pull to get it straight. > its way too stiff Frank, is it a two-piece column? If so, the two pieces must align with each other exactly or the steering will be quite stiff. There are adjustments on both the unit mount and the upper shaft for doing this. Kinda fiddly, but necessary. I put the coupler on one side and pull the upper column out, the slide it into the coupler as I watch. If the coupler moves, I adjust and try again. And again. Until the coupler is stationary when the shaft slides in. John H. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jun 23 12:13:12 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2011 11:13:12 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 tight steering and decals In-Reply-To: <12026.85824.qm@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <903533.26064.qm@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <12026.85824.qm@web120204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <046501cc31d1$37f300e0$a7d902a0$@rr.com> This is just a theory at this point, but might be worth some consideration. The peg that rides in the worm inside the steering box is conical, but the sides are fairly steep, and with proper adjustment both sides touch the worm at the same time. Due to the "bell crank" configuration, there is considerable side force on the rocker shaft when you turn the wheels. I'm thinking that when the bushing is a bit worn (as any original bushing is bound to be by now), it allows the rocker shaft to cock fore or aft, and the resulting angle causes the peg to bind in the worm. This might explain why the worm in my TR3A had so much damage to the top edge of the groove, but the peg didn't seem to touch the damaged sections after the rebuild. If so, this wouldn't show up while moving the linkage with the wheels off the ground (or disconnected), but could add considerably to the force required to turn the wheels. It would also get worse when you try to adjust the peg per the book. This could explain why my current TR3 steers harder than the previous TR3A, even though everything but the steering box was moved over from the other car. (The 3A had the split column and I decided against converting.) The TR3 box felt good on the bench, so I didn't rebuild it (but I plan to soon). Another thing to consider : The idler arm bracket mounting holes are a fair bit oversize, to allow alignment with the steering box. If you just let it droop while you tighten the bolts, you may wind up with the silentbloc replacements in a bind. Likely this isn't very significant with the original rubber joints, but probably is more of an issue with the harder joints. I can definitely tell that my brass/SS replacements turn stiffer if I let the idler droop. Are you sure the right trunnions were installed? If you don't look closely, it can be hard to notice the difference between the 3 degree trunnions and the 0 degree ones. Your friend wouldn't be the first to have gotten the wrong ones (or not realize that someone has replaced the upper A-arms with the 3 degree versions). Obviously, I assume everything has been properly lubricated, including the felt bushing behind the steering wheel. I believe that using a good synthetic GL5 gear oil in the steering box helps, but I can't really prove it. Next time I may actually try one of the Redline gear oils, as they are apparently even slipperier than standard synthetic. -- Randall From yellowtr at adelphia.net Thu Jun 23 13:57:06 2011 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2011 15:57:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] Originality issues In-Reply-To: <1308844091.33032.YahooMailNeo@web28305.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> References: <1308844091.33032.YahooMailNeo@web28305.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <201106231557.07324.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Thursday, June 23, 2011 11:48:11 am John Macartney wrote: > Hi, List > > I've been asked to put an article together for a magazine about > why many people are so committed to *originality* while (probably?) an > equally large number are not? We've got a diversity of views here in the > UK and I'd be interested in having those from North America as well. > If *originality* is > important to you, I'd be very interested to learn your thoughts - and why. > Equally, if it doesn't matter - or you're ambivalent about the whole > subject anyway, I'd be equally in learning those thoughts too - and why. > In order to > save cluttering the list with replies, I think everyone would appreciate > the general subject as being 'off-topic' so replies to me please off-list. > Thanks - and cheers > > Jonmac > > Jonmac, Originality is important to me but only to a point. When restoring my 3 Triumphs I tried to use as many original parts as was practical. But I didn't shy away from upgrades that would keep me from the side of the road such as electric fuel pumps and regulators in all 3. I have made numerous upgrades over the years mostly for reliability. If I had the time and $ I would upgrade the 3 and 4 with alternators and add some relays etc. as an example. Maybe in the future. Again, since I drive them as much as possible my main concern is reliability. Bob 1958 TR3A 1963 TR4 1972 TR6 From TRDOCTOR at aol.com Thu Jun 23 14:41:11 2011 From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com) Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2011 16:41:11 EDT Subject: [TR] Triumph Side of the Road Message-ID: <1f9dc.4d3cb19d.3b34fee7@aol.com> Well, not always. Carol and I were on the way home from the Red Wing National Convention when we lost the tread off of one of our trailer tires and it blew the fender off of the trailer. We were westbound coming out of Des Moines, Iowa and had to pull over. We put out the warning reflectors and went to work. While we were trying to fix the problem a whole line of TRs from one of the regional clubs and not one stopped to see if we needed any help. We could have used a hand. Sure, we were pulling a trailer but, we knew everyone in the group that passed us by. Sam In a message dated 6/23/2011 11:13:15 A.M. Central Daylight Time, triumphs-request at autox.team.net writes: It's a fact that no Triumph driver will pass another by the side of the road. That is the fact. I was ready for the hook till they arrived. I had called my son in law and told him to prepare to hook up the trailer to come to get us. If not for the Triumph Cavalry. I was toast. I had no spare fuel filter but you can bet I will put one in the glove box for future trips. Darrell From Loumetelko at aol.com Thu Jun 23 14:52:23 2011 From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com) Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2011 16:52:23 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] TR4 in Print Message-ID: <21f42.6197cd9d.3b350187@aol.com> > Thought you might enjoy seeing the recent Lands End Kids catalog... > Don't know if I'd leave them unsupervised for that wash :) Sorry to see that Land's End marketing air brushed out the hood emblem and letters. O well, at least we know what it is! Lou Metelko Auburn, Indiana -- From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Thu Jun 23 15:00:19 2011 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2011 17:00:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] Originality issues In-Reply-To: <201106231557.07324.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <1308844091.33032.YahooMailNeo@web28305.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> <201106231557.07324.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: My 2 cents - I upgrade my TR4 as much as I want - but not to the point in not being able to return to originality one day. It started as reliability improvements and blossomed from there. I'm not hammering a fender to make a carb fit or cutting and welding the frame. I clean, tag and bag all removed parts and have them in a big plastic tote for posterity. Transmission and driveshaft are in a wooden box. So far the parts I've upgraded - generator to gm alternator; Neg ground; radio and bracket (made new bracket to fit DIN style radio); electric fuel pump; horn relay; electronic distributor; electric fan; Toyota transmission; alloy valve cover; modern oil filter; weber single barrel carburetors (not fully sorted at this time); cam; wood dashboard. front and rear sway bars; stainless exhaust; dual cigarette lighters under the dash; rear occasional seat is now a speaker box. I'm sure I've missed something..... Only a few holes were drilled in the car to accommodate these upgrades - I made aluminum brackets that bolt on to existing fasteners for most electrical mods. It looks pretty good (to me) and is all reversible without much bodywork. (a few screw holes in the dash and a couple for the sway bars). My TR2 - right now it's pretty darn original and pretty much rust free. Until I get really disgusted - I think I'll keep it that way. I do have a complete TR3 rear end and brakes - and tr3 disc brakes on mounted on spindles waiting in the wings for that day...... I snapped an axle doing a burn out on high school graduation night - not much of a burnout it turns out..... I ended up machining and heat treating one myself - so I'm a bit leery of what is currently in that rear axle. I want to pull it out and see just how bad it looks - but I'm too happy driving the little wreck at this time. Chris From jeremiah at curryclan.net Thu Jun 23 16:31:09 2011 From: jeremiah at curryclan.net (Jeremiah Curry) Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2011 16:31:09 -0600 Subject: [TR] Originality issues Message-ID: <0M4oHV-1RY0423qsH-00yZpC@mrelay.perfora.net> I agree, originality is important in that I don't want to change the character or appearance of the car, but outside of that changed are fine. I would even consider a transmission conversion, though you might say that changes the driving experience. -----Original Message----- From: Bob Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2011 1:57 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; John Macartney Subject: Re: [TR] Originality issues On Thursday, June 23, 2011 11:48:11 am John Macartney wrote: > Hi, List > > I've been asked to put an article together for a magazine about > why many people are so committed to *originality* while (probably?) an > equally large number are not? We've got a diversity of views here in the > UK and I'd be interested in having those from North America as well. > If *originality* is From jeremiah at curryclan.net Thu Jun 23 16:33:25 2011 From: jeremiah at curryclan.net (Jeremiah Curry) Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2011 16:33:25 -0600 Subject: [TR] Originality issues Message-ID: <0MU0hV-1R02BF0zIH-00R3lK@mrelay.perfora.net> I agree, originality is important in that I don't want to change the character or appearance of the car, but outside of that changed are fine. I would even consider a transmission conversion, though you might say that changes the driving experience. -----Original Message----- From: Bob Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2011 1:57 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; John Macartney Subject: Re: [TR] Originality issues On Thursday, June 23, 2011 11:48:11 am John Macartney wrote: > Hi, List > > I've been asked to put an article together for a magazine about > why many people are so committed to *originality* while (probably?) an > equally large number are not? We've got a diversity of views here in the > UK and I'd be interested in having those from North America as well. > If *originality* is From spook01 at comcast.net Thu Jun 23 16:35:26 2011 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2011 17:35:26 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Originality_issues?= Message-ID: <20110623223522.EEE7518787B@autox.team.net> I think he asked if everyone would contact him OFF list. Some of you may have missed that part, so just FYI. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Chris Simo" To: "list Triumph" Subject: [TR] Originality issues Date: Thu, Jun 23, 2011 16:00 My 2 cents - I upgrade my TR4 as much as I want - but not to the point in not being able to return to originality one day. It started as reliability improvements and blossomed from there. I'm not hammering a fender to make a carb fit or cutting and welding the frame. I clean, tag and bag all removed parts and have them in a big plastic tote for posterity. Transmission and driveshaft are in a wooden box. So far the parts I've upgraded - generator to gm alternator; Neg ground; radio and bracket (made new bracket to fit DIN style radio); electric fuel pump; horn relay; electronic distributor; electric fan; Toyota transmission; alloy valve cover; modern oil filter; weber single barrel carburetors (not fully sorted at this time); cam; wood dashboard. front and rear sway bars; stainless exhaust; dual cigarette lighters under the dash; rear occasional seat is now a speaker box. I'm sure I've missed something..... Only a few holes were drilled in the car to accommodate these upgrades - I made aluminum brackets that bolt on to existing fasteners for most electrical mods. It looks pretty good (to me) and is all reversible without much bodywork. (a few screw holes in the dash and a couple for the sway bars). My TR2 - right now it's pretty darn original and pretty much rust free. Until I get really disgusted - I think I'll keep it that way. I do have a complete TR3 rear end and brakes - and tr3 disc brakes on mounted on spindles waiting in the wings for that day...... I snapped an axle doing a burn out on high school graduation night - not much of a burnout it turns out..... I ended up machining and heat treating one myself - so I'm a bit leery of what is currently in that rear axle. I want to pull it out and see just how bad it looks - but I'm too happy driving the little wreck at this time. Chris triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From jeremiah at curryclan.net Thu Jun 23 16:39:23 2011 From: jeremiah at curryclan.net (Jeremiah Curry) Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2011 16:39:23 -0600 Subject: [TR] Originality issues Message-ID: <0LZxfZ-1RKoMl22FJ-00m1m2@mrelay.perfora.net> I agree, originality is important in that I don't want to change the character or appearance of the car, but outside of that changed are fine. I would even consider a transmission conversion, though you might say that changes the driving experience. -----Original Message----- From: Bob Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2011 1:57 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; John Macartney Subject: Re: [TR] Originality issues On Thursday, June 23, 2011 11:48:11 am John Macartney wrote: > Hi, List > > I've been asked to put an article together for a magazine about > why many people are so committed to *originality* while (probably?) an > equally large number are not? We've got a diversity of views here in the > UK and I'd be interested in having those from North America as well. > If *originality* is From terryrs at comcast.net Thu Jun 23 17:38:53 2011 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2011 23:38:53 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Shaking TR3 In-Reply-To: <8CDFF51AA21FFC3-2B94-5E419@webmail-m139.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <645978866.2540121.1308872333812.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> ISTR that Jay Leno talked about getting stranded in antique cars as a perk. Drags one out of the schedule of the day, forces one to contemplate the chaos factor in life, and ultimately is fun. You get to see new people, have an outside experience and be appreciative of mobility when it happens! Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire (where I was stranded with a blown headgasket just at the end of last year's driving season: slept in sunshine by the Manchester toll booth!) From sumton at sbcglobal.net Thu Jun 23 18:05:28 2011 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2011 19:05:28 -0500 Subject: [TR] Originality issues In-Reply-To: <20110623223522.EEE7518787B@autox.team.net> References: <20110623223522.EEE7518787B@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <8D95875E69C344768BCE6A49EABA2397@ranteer.local> oh, come on. this is a great new thread and bound to generate some passion. I say we do it on list -------------------------------------------------- From: Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2011 5:35 PM To: "Chris Simo" ; "list Triumph" Subject: Re: [TR] Originality issues > I think he asked if everyone would contact him OFF list. Some of you may > have missed that part, so just FYI. From dmb993 at earthlink.net Thu Jun 23 18:14:52 2011 From: dmb993 at earthlink.net (david brady) Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2011 20:14:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] Shaking TR3 In-Reply-To: <645978866.2540121.1308872333812.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <645978866.2540121.1308872333812.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <4E03D6FC.3010204@earthlink.net> Me thinks Jay Leno needs to get out more... :) David Brady '68 TR250, CD8124L On 6/23/2011 7:38 PM, terryrs at comcast.net wrote: > ISTR that Jay Leno talked about getting stranded in antique cars as a perk. Drags one out of the schedule of the day, forces one to contemplate the chaos factor in life, and ultimately is fun. You get to see new people, have an outside experience and be appreciative of mobility when it happens! > > Terry Smith, '59 TR3A > New Hampshire (where I was stranded with a blown headgasket just at the end of last year's driving season: slept in sunshine by the Manchester toll booth!) From jeremiah at curryclan.net Thu Jun 23 18:44:30 2011 From: jeremiah at curryclan.net (Jeremiah Curry) Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2011 18:44:30 -0600 Subject: [TR] Originality issues Message-ID: <0LzKe1-1RdRM02uH3-014Wno@mrelay.perfora.net> I agree, originality is important in that I don't want to change the character or appearance of the car, but outside of that changed are fine. I would even consider a transmission conversion, though you might say that changes the driving experience. -----Original Message----- From: Bob Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2011 1:57 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; John Macartney Subject: Re: [TR] Originality issues On Thursday, June 23, 2011 11:48:11 am John Macartney wrote: > Hi, List > > I've been asked to put an article together for a magazine about > why many people are so committed to *originality* while (probably?) an > equally large number are not? We've got a diversity of views here in the > UK and I'd be interested in having those from North America as well. > If *originality* is From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Thu Jun 23 19:55:45 2011 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2011 21:55:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] Originality issues In-Reply-To: <4e03bfa3.021edc0a.77f1.fffff48fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com> References: <4e03bfa3.021edc0a.77f1.fffff48fSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com> Message-ID: Sorry Mr. Spook. if my input was rubbish. On Thu, Jun 23, 2011 at 6:35 PM, spook01 at comcast.net wrote: > I think he asked if everyone would contact him OFF list. Some of you may > have missed that part, so just FYI. > > Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone > > ----- Reply message ----- > From: "Chris Simo" > To: "list Triumph" > Subject: [TR] Originality issues > Date: Thu, Jun 23, 2011 16:00 > > > My 2 cents - > > I upgrade my TR4 as much as I want - but not to the point in not being > able to return to originality one day. It started as reliability > improvements and blossomed from there. > > I'm not hammering a fender to make a carb fit or cutting and welding > the frame. I clean, tag and bag all removed parts and have them in a > big plastic tote for posterity. Transmission and driveshaft are in a > wooden box. > > So far the parts I've upgraded - generator to gm alternator; Neg > ground; radio and bracket (made new bracket to fit DIN style radio); > electric fuel pump; horn relay; electronic distributor; electric fan; > Toyota transmission; alloy valve cover; modern oil filter; weber > single barrel carburetors (not fully sorted at this time); cam; wood > dashboard. front and rear sway bars; stainless exhaust; dual cigarette > lighters under the dash; rear occasional seat is now a speaker box. > I'm sure I've missed something..... > > Only a few holes were drilled in the car to accommodate these upgrades > - I made aluminum brackets that bolt on to existing fasteners for most > electrical mods. It looks pretty good (to me) and is all reversible > without much bodywork. (a few screw holes in the dash and a couple > for the sway bars). > > My TR2 - right now it's pretty darn original and pretty much rust > free. Until I get really disgusted - I think I'll keep it that way. > I do have a complete TR3 rear end and brakes - and tr3 disc brakes on > mounted on spindles waiting in the wings for that day...... I snapped > an axle doing a burn out on high school graduation night - not much of > a burnout it turns out..... I ended up machining and heat treating one > myself - so I'm a bit leery of what is currently in that rear axle. I > want to pull it out and see just how bad it looks - but I'm too happy > driving the little wreck at this time. > > Chris > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From spook01 at comcast.net Thu Jun 23 20:20:43 2011 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2011 22:20:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Originality_issues?= Message-ID: <20110624022042.E713B187869@autox.team.net> No, it was interesting in the extreme. I merely pointed out the original poster wanted off list replies. I apologize if I hurt your feelings; no insult was intended. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Chris Simo" To: "spook01 at comcast.net" Cc: "list Triumph" Subject: [TR] Originality issues Date: Thu, Jun 23, 2011 21:55 Sorry Mr. Spook. if my input was rubbish. On Thu, Jun 23, 2011 at 6:35 PM, spook01 at comcast.net wrote: > I think he asked if everyone would contact him OFF list. B Some of you may > have missed that part, so just FYI. > > Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone > > ----- Reply message ----- > From: "Chris Simo" > To: "list Triumph" > Subject: [TR] Originality issues > Date: Thu, Jun 23, 2011 16:00 > > > My 2 cents - > > I upgrade my TR4 as much as I want - but not to the point in not being > able to return to originality one day. It started as reliability > improvements and blossomed from there. > > I'm not hammering a fender to make a carb fit or cutting and welding > the frame. B I clean, tag and bag all removed parts and have them in a > big plastic tote for posterity. B Transmission and driveshaft are in a > wooden box. > > So far the parts I've upgraded - generator to gm alternator; Neg > ground; B radio and bracket (made new bracket to fit DIN style radio); > electric fuel pump; horn relay; electronic distributor; electric fan; > Toyota transmission; alloy valve cover; modern oil filter; weber > single barrel carburetors (not fully sorted at this time); cam; wood > dashboard. front and rear sway bars; stainless exhaust; dual cigarette > lighters under the dash; rear occasional seat is now a speaker box. > I'm sure I've missed something..... > > Only a few holes were drilled in the car to accommodate these upgrades > - I made aluminum brackets that bolt on to existing fasteners for most > electrical mods. B It looks pretty good (to me) and is all reversible > without B much bodywork. (a few screw holes in the dash and a couple > for the sway bars). > > My TR2 - right now it's pretty darn original and pretty much rust > free. B Until I get really disgusted - I think I'll keep it that way. > I do have a complete TR3 rear end and brakes - B and tr3 disc brakes on > mounted on spindles waiting in the wings for that day...... B I snapped > an axle doing a burn out on high school graduation night - not much of > a burnout it turns out..... I ended up machining and heat treating one > myself - so I'm a bit leery of what is currently in that rear axle. I > want to pull it out and see just how bad it looks - but I'm too happy > driving the little wreck at this time. > > Chris > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From jeremiah at curryclan.net Thu Jun 23 20:46:19 2011 From: jeremiah at curryclan.net (Jeremiah Curry) Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2011 20:46:19 -0600 Subject: [TR] Originality issues In-Reply-To: <0LzKe1-1RdRM02uH3-014Wno@mrelay.perfora.net> References: <0LzKe1-1RdRM02uH3-014Wno@mrelay.perfora.net> Message-ID: <6B07471FFE9C4046B38634EFA52CAADE@mediacenter> I apologize, this mail seems to be stuck in my phone somehow and keeps sending. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jeremiah Curry Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2011 6:45 PM To: Bob; triumphs at autox.team.net; JohnMacartney Subject: Re: [TR] Originality issues I agree, originality is important in that I don't want to change the character or appearance of the car, but outside of that changed are fine. I would even consider a transmission conversion, though you might say that changes the driving experience. -----Original Message----- From: Bob Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2011 1:57 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; John Macartney Subject: Re: [TR] Originality issues On Thursday, June 23, 2011 11:48:11 am John Macartney wrote: > Hi, List > > I've been asked to put an article together for a magazine about > why many people are so committed to *originality* while (probably?) an > equally large number are not? We've got a diversity of views here in the > UK and I'd be interested in having those from North America as well. > If *originality* is triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jeremiah at curryclan.net From pethier at comcast.net Thu Jun 23 21:33:18 2011 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 24 Jun 2011 03:33:18 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR4 in Print In-Reply-To: <21f42.6197cd9d.3b350187@aol.com> Message-ID: <517026919.95929.1308886398335.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> > From: Loumetelko at aol.com > > Thought you might enjoy seeing the recent Lands End Kids catalog... > > Don't know if I'd leave them unsupervised for that wash :) > > Sorry to see that Land's End marketing air brushed out the hood emblem > and > letters. O well, at least we know what it is! Maybe they didn't. B Maybe the owner shaved it. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack" 2004 Suburban 8.1 2005 Lotus Elise 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://www.mnautox.com From pethier at comcast.net Thu Jun 23 21:35:13 2011 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 24 Jun 2011 03:35:13 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Triumph Side of the Road In-Reply-To: <1f9dc.4d3cb19d.3b34fee7@aol.com> Message-ID: <1070279958.96009.1308886513108.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Was that an open trailer or an enclosed trailer? Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack" 2004 Suburban 8.1 2005 Lotus Elise 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://www.mnautox.com ----- Original Message ----- > From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com > To: triumphs at autox.team.net, TR250Driver at aol.com > Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2011 3:41:11 PM > Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph Side of the Road > Well, not always. Carol and I were on the way home from the Red Wing > National Convention when we lost the tread off of one of our trailer > tires and > it blew the fender off of the trailer. We were westbound coming out of > Des > Moines, Iowa and had to pull over. We put out the warning reflectors > and > went to work. While we were trying to fix the problem a whole line of > TRs > from one of the regional clubs and not one stopped to see if we needed > any > help. We could have used a hand. Sure, we were pulling a trailer but, > we > knew everyone in the group that passed us by. > Sam > > > In a message dated 6/23/2011 11:13:15 A.M. Central Daylight Time, > triumphs-request at autox.team.net writes: > > It's a fact that no > Triumph driver will pass another by the side of the road. > > That is the fact. I was ready for the hook till they arrived. I had > called my son in law and told him to prepare to hook up the trailer to > come to > get us. If not for the Triumph Cavalry. I was toast. I had no spare > fuel > filter but you can bet I will put one in the glove box for future > trips. > Darrell > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net From pethier at comcast.net Thu Jun 23 21:42:57 2011 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 24 Jun 2011 03:42:57 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR4 in Print In-Reply-To: <21f42.6197cd9d.3b350187@aol.com> Message-ID: <910542014.96243.1308886977952.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> > From: Loumetelko at aol.com > > Thought you might enjoy seeing the recent Lands End Kids catalog... > > Don't know if I'd leave them unsupervised for that wash :) > > Sorry to see that Land's End marketing air brushed out the hood emblem > and > letters. O well, at least we know what it is! Maybe they didn't. Maybe the owner shaved it. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack" 2004 Suburban 8.1 2005 Lotus Elise 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://www.mnautox.com From diggle at clear.net.nz Fri Jun 24 03:46:20 2011 From: diggle at clear.net.nz (diggle at clear.net.nz) Date: Fri, 24 Jun 2011 21:46:20 +1200 Subject: [TR] pressure relief valve springs Message-ID: <4e045cec.2e5.5e73.22195@clear.net.nz> Thankyou to those that replied re where to get them. I should have had a better look at the Moss or TRF site. Message for TJ Wakeman. Your excelllent TR website is broken, I keep getting shot back to the Alladins lamps. Has anyone else had the same experience. Jim and the 1962 TR4 From peterara at msn.com Fri Jun 24 06:16:10 2011 From: peterara at msn.com (Peter Arakelian) Date: Fri, 24 Jun 2011 05:16:10 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumph Side of the Road Message-ID: !!! I think every one of them should have stopped. I have been in numerous caravans to and from Triumphest on the west coast, and we have always stopped for stopped cars we came across. Once I stopped as part of a caravan that had gotten very stretched to find owners wife waving me off - seems so many were stopping to help/chat they couldn't get the simple fix done. This is why people travel in groups! And whether you are part of that bunch or not, they should have stopped! Severest reprimand to all who fail to stop - you may be there one day wishing someone would stop. Remember the Karma wheel - what goes around comes around. Peter - 1971 TR6 From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Jun 24 07:10:26 2011 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 24 Jun 2011 09:10:26 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Originality issues Message-ID: <2cd82.3125897e.3b35e6c2@cs.com> In a message dated 6/23/2011 10:27:53 PM Central Daylight Time, spook01 at comcast.net writes: > No, it was interesting in the extreme. I merely pointed out the original > poster wanted off list replies. > I apologize if I hurt your feelings; no insult was intended. > Perhaps he is writing an article for the newsletter and if all the material is blasted over the Internet it will "take away the thunder." ;-) If I may, I would like to make a plug for the VTR at this time (leading up to the NATC in Breckenridge). Darrel Floyd and I collaborated on the rules for the two new modified classes in Concours. The goal was to include those who have really nice cars but with the typical modifications that are done to improve reliability. Since the VTR encourages us to drive our cars we shouldn't punish those who make these mods so they can with more confidence. There are two levels of modified considered. The Touring class includes modifications that do not effect the driving experience. Things like alternator conversions, electric fans and electric fuel pumps. The cars look and feel as original but are less prone to "side of the road" episodes and when they do happen parts are available at your local Manny, Moe, and Jack's. The other level is Performance. This class allows +1 tire/wheel changes, carb mods and some others. This changes the character of the car but only modestly and encompasses the more common mods that are found on cars that are used on the street on a regular basis. We still have the Race Car class which will cover cars dedicated for track use. The purpose is to make Concours more inclusive of those who enjoy driving their cars and have enhanced them in modest ways to make the driving experience more confident and enjoyable. Keeping a car faithful to the factory configuration is a game unto itself and can be rewarding when done well. There is a group of people who take great pleasure in rising to the challenge. Then there is a group who put the driving experience first and foremost and historical accuracy is incidental. But the largest group fall somewhere in between and it is those people we seek to include. Dave From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jun 24 09:28:40 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 24 Jun 2011 08:28:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumph Side of the Road In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <017201cc3283$65acf4c0$0301a8c0@randall> > I have been in numerous > caravans to and from Triumphest on the west coast, and we > have always stopped > for stopped cars we came across. I agree, but maybe it's a west coast thing. -- Randall From trglory at verizon.net Fri Jun 24 09:38:54 2011 From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito) Date: Fri, 24 Jun 2011 11:38:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] Modifying tires and wheels In-Reply-To: <2cd82.3125897e.3b35e6c2@cs.com> References: <2cd82.3125897e.3b35e6c2@cs.com> Message-ID: <003501cc3284$d47ee6a0$7d7cb3e0$@net> Dave; You might want to suggest a rethink of the position on +1 tire/wheel changes, especially for Wedges and Spits. This modification is often not done for performance but for pure survival. There is virtually no modern car in this country that uses a small tire anymore; even the econo-boxes sport 17 inch or larger rims. Inevitably, tire manufacturers produce only what can be sold in the mass market. A quick check of the on-line sellers will show that there are very few 13 inch tires still available for road use and none rated for performance driving. I have no doubt that these few will soon be purged from the inventory. I believe that when my current tires wear out (or dry rot), I will be forced to install an aftermarket 15 inch tire/wheel combination. This is what many others have had to do in order to keep their cars on the road. Joe Laurito -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave1massey at cs.com Sent: Friday, June 24, 2011 9:10 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Originality issues In a message dated 6/23/2011 10:27:53 PM Central Daylight Time, spook01 at comcast.net writes: > No, it was interesting in the extreme. I merely pointed out the original > poster wanted off list replies. > I apologize if I hurt your feelings; no insult was intended. > Perhaps he is writing an article for the newsletter and if all the material is blasted over the Internet it will "take away the thunder." ;-) If I may, I would like to make a plug for the VTR at this time (leading up to the NATC in Breckenridge). Darrel Floyd and I collaborated on the rules for the two new modified classes in Concours. The goal was to include those who have really nice cars but with the typical modifications that are done to improve reliability. Since the VTR encourages us to drive our cars we shouldn't punish those who make these mods so they can with more confidence. There are two levels of modified considered. The Touring class includes modifications that do not effect the driving experience. Things like alternator conversions, electric fans and electric fuel pumps. The cars look and feel as original but are less prone to "side of the road" episodes and when they do happen parts are available at your local Manny, Moe, and Jack's. The other level is Performance. This class allows +1 tire/wheel changes, carb mods and some others. This changes the character of the car but only modestly and encompasses the more common mods that are found on cars that are used on the street on a regular basis. We still have the Race Car class which will cover cars dedicated for track use. The purpose is to make Concours more inclusive of those who enjoy driving their cars and have enhanced them in modest ways to make the driving experience more confident and enjoyable. Keeping a car faithful to the factory configuration is a game unto itself and can be rewarding when done well. There is a group of people who take great pleasure in rising to the challenge. Then there is a group who put the driving experience first and foremost and historical accuracy is incidental. But the largest group fall somewhere in between and it is those people we seek to include. Dave triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/trglory at verizon.net From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk Fri Jun 24 10:12:41 2011 From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Fri, 24 Jun 2011 17:12:41 +0100 (BST) Subject: [TR] Originality issues In-Reply-To: <2cd82.3125897e.3b35e6c2@cs.com> References: <2cd82.3125897e.3b35e6c2@cs.com> Message-ID: <1308931961.52713.YahooMailNeo@web28314.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Dave Massey wrote: The purpose is to make Concours more inclusive of those who enjoy driving their cars and have enhanced them in modest ways to make the driving experience more confident and enjoyable. ............ Then there is a group who put the driving experience first and foremost and historical accuracy is incidental. But the largest group fall somewhere in between and it is those people we seek to include. Which general group, Dave, (IMHO) makes itself broadly eligible for inclusion in the prize that VTR generously named The Charles Macartney Daily Driver Award :) To everyone else who widely responded to my query about originality, I've had many replies from people who like to 'slightly modify' their cars to the way they want them. I'm truly grateful for that input as this mostly covers reliability improvements such as electronic ignition and spin-on filter adaptors - and that's all fine. What I *do* want are replies from those who truly want their cars to look 'ex factory' and I don't see a response from Darrell who I thought tended (?) to head up this group as VTR's Chief Judge? So, responses from what some might term the 'manic obsessives' please. I know they're out there and I'd like to hear from them as well. Jonmac From david.brister at wanadoo.fr Fri Jun 24 11:22:22 2011 From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister) Date: Fri, 24 Jun 2011 19:22:22 +0200 Subject: [TR] Originality issues In-Reply-To: <1518813571.68255.1308849965299.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <1518813571.68255.1308849965299.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <54E5C0C2FE4D4274B0A937182D07B7BF@dbristerPC> When I acquired my TR4A many years ago it was I believe stock original except it had (still has) Cosmic alloy wheels. I believe they were a factory option. It had been run into the ground as the saying goes but it was all there. That is to say all 4 springs were too weak, particularly the rear ones, there was a metal fan on the end of the crank which did,nt work very well in hot weather, the lights and flashers were routed through switches on the steering fast burning out.The cylinder head was starting to crack around the valve seats and was not right for unleaded petrol. The diff was not properly supported, nor the brackets supporting the front wheel assemblies. Just to name a few things. My aim was to stick to makers spec except where safety and reliability were involved. After all we want to drive these old things not spend our time by the roadside.So I have uprated springs, an electric fan with thermo switch and o/ride control, relays where necessary for lights and horn, spin on oil filter, cracked diff mount replaced,unleaded cylinder head with inserts to prevent recession, fitted modern extendable seat belts, a hazard warning light system, replaced the original hand pump windscreen washer with an electric one from a Japanese car, mounted a cigarette lighter under the dash for GPS ect, fitted a modern CD/radio and so on. However I have kept all the old bits so that if any future owner after me should want to be "original" then they have only to put the old bits back. If AM radio is your bag. I think that if many of these modifications had been available when the car was made then Triumph would have incorporated them, but if there is a demand for a concours class for strict "originality" lets have one, but Dave Massey and company must be right to encourage a "modified to make them better on the road" class. I seem to have gone on a bit. Sorry. YMMV, David Brister CTC 777785 0 From wbeech at flash.net Fri Jun 24 12:14:51 2011 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Fri, 24 Jun 2011 12:14:51 -0600 Subject: [TR] pressure relief valve springs In-Reply-To: <4e045cec.2e5.5e73.22195@clear.net.nz> References: <4e045cec.2e5.5e73.22195@clear.net.nz> Message-ID: <3188E3B198954559BE7B753E34BFA394@bboffice> Had no problem with Teriann's web site this morning. http://www.tjwakeman.net/ Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of diggle at clear.net.nz Sent: Friday, June 24, 2011 3:46 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] pressure relief valve springs Thankyou to those that replied re where to get them. I should have had a better look at the Moss or TRF site. Message for TJ Wakeman. Your excelllent TR website is broken, I keep getting shot back to the Alladins lamps. Has anyone else had the same experience. Jim and the 1962 TR4 triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From triumphs at consolidated.net Thu Jun 23 21:21:33 2011 From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Ken Gano, home PC) Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2011 22:21:33 -0500 Subject: [TR] Originality issues In-Reply-To: <1308844091.33032.YahooMailNeo@web28305.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> References: <1308844091.33032.YahooMailNeo@web28305.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <80633F37-56C8-4954-9492-A3B5EECE225A@consolidated.net> Not at all. I saw my tr3 on the showroom floor when I was 7 years old. Why go backwards? Kg On the road :-) On Jun 23, 2011, at 10:48 AM, John Macartney wrote: > Hi, List > > I've been asked to put an article together for a magazine about > why many people are so committed to *originality* while (probably?) an equally > large number are not? We've got a diversity of views here in the UK and I'd be > interested in having those from North America as well. > If *originality* is > important to you, I'd be very interested to learn your thoughts - and why. > Equally, if it doesn't matter - or you're ambivalent about the whole subject > anyway, I'd be equally in learning those thoughts too - and why. > In order to > save cluttering the list with replies, I think everyone would appreciate the > general subject as being 'off-topic' so replies to me please off-list. Thanks > - and cheers > > Jonmac > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumphs at consolidated.net From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Jun 24 14:58:49 2011 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 24 Jun 2011 16:58:49 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Modifying tires and wheels Message-ID: <18c10.60484352.3b365489@cs.com> In a message dated 6/24/2011 10:39:04 AM Central Daylight Time, trglory at verizon.net writes: > You might want to suggest a rethink of the position on +1 tire/wheel > changes, especially for Wedges and Spits. This modification is often not > done for performance but for pure survival. There is virtually no modern > car > in this country that uses a small tire anymore; even the econo-boxes sport > 17 inch or larger rims. Inevitably, tire manufacturers produce only what > can > be sold in the mass market. > > A quick check of the on-line sellers will show that there are very few 13 > inch tires still available for road use and none rated for performance > driving. I have no doubt that these few will soon be purged from the > inventory. I believe that when my current tires wear out (or dry rot), I > will be forced to install an aftermarket 15 inch tire/wheel combination. > This is what many others have had to do in order to keep their cars on the > road. > My post was not meant to be specific on any details. The rules are posted on the VTR website. But the rules are mostly for consistency. The philosophy is still the guiding principle and we make changes where it makes sense to do so. Usually this comes up when a situation arises that we did not anticipate. The 13 inch tire is certainly a situation that has been developing somewhat quickly but has only recently hit critical. We will take your suggestion under advisement. Thanks. Dave From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jun 24 15:06:20 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 24 Jun 2011 14:06:20 -0700 Subject: [TR] pressure relief valve springs In-Reply-To: <3188E3B198954559BE7B753E34BFA394@bboffice> References: <4e045cec.2e5.5e73.22195@clear.net.nz> <3188E3B198954559BE7B753E34BFA394@bboffice> Message-ID: <017501cc32b2$9268a200$b739e600$@rr.com> > Had no problem with Teriann's web site this morning. > http://www.tjwakeman.net/ Try clicking on the link that says "Triumph TR3 web site". The link points to http://www.tr3a.info/ But that winds up being a redirect to http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/1aladdinSite/index.htm (at least for me on two different computers, different browsers, different OS, different ISP). -- Randall From TR250Driver at aol.com Fri Jun 24 15:49:01 2011 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Fri, 24 Jun 2011 17:49:01 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Originality issues Message-ID: <1e70c.36908880.3b36604d@aol.com> Hi John, Been and little busy at work but I am probably in the group that Phil first spoke of and it really depends on the Triumph's condition when purchased. My 76 Spit 1500 was my first purchased in 1980 from a wrecking yard, front accident damage to only one side and the car was original and complete. Then came the 71 TR6. The ad in the paper claimed it to be a low mileage mint original example, sooo. It gets a little fuzzy but I believe the TR3B came next and although it was used up fairly well it was not modified and I wanted it so I could join TRA and compete in Concours. My three Wedges were all original examples when purchased "Historic Preservation of Original Features" was the proper thing to do with them although I may paint the TR8 sometime in the future. The TR250 was going to be a modified car but then I found a set of Bumble Bee hoses and had to go stock. It took a lot of effort but I scored 398 pts out of 400 at the VTR in Portland, ME with it which was a very rewarding experience for me. The GT6 was bought in pieces so no need to even attempt an original car. It is built for Modified Touring and is a 68 & 70 combined. I also confess that I took a restored mostly original Spitfire MK 3 and turned it into a Modified Prepared autocross Triumph. The TR4 was an early restored 62 that was not finished and my good buddy Scott Harper of Team Triumph just happened to have a very original 62 donor car that gave me all the parts that I needed to finish it as original. I have one more TR4 to restore. A mostly original 63 but I am going to go modified with it because it is a whole lot easier and ultimately less expensive to build them with "NO Rules" IMHO. BTW I am Chief Judge only because Vernon Brandon asked me to do it before the first Breckinridge Convention too many years ago. Yes I have a lot of Triumphs so I know some things about them but I am not an originality nut case. I can see the value in all the Triumphs that fine folks and friends drive and restore as a rewarding hobby. The VTR Motto: TRIUMPH - PRESERVATION - RESTORATION - ENJOYMENT. Hey, Dave Massey is my choice to replace me as the Chief when my term runs out in two years. HIP HIP HOORAY for Dave. How about it Guys? Cheers, Darrell In a message dated 6/24/2011 12:52:24 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk writes: don't see a response from Darrell who I thought tended (?) to head up this group as VTR's Chief Judge? So, responses from what some might term the 'manic obsessives' please. I know they're out there and I'd like to hear from them as well. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jun 24 17:40:44 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 24 Jun 2011 16:40:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] Originality issues In-Reply-To: <1e70c.36908880.3b36604d@aol.com> References: <1e70c.36908880.3b36604d@aol.com> Message-ID: <019601cc32c8$23d23b10$6b76b130$@rr.com> > Hey, Dave Massey is my choice to replace me as the Chief when my term > runs > out in two years. HIP HIP HOORAY for Dave. How about it Guys? I'll second that! -- Randall From tjwakeman at gmail.com Fri Jun 24 19:03:18 2011 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Fri, 24 Jun 2011 18:03:18 -0700 Subject: [TR] pressure relief valve springs In-Reply-To: <3188E3B198954559BE7B753E34BFA394@bboffice> References: <4e045cec.2e5.5e73.22195@clear.net.nz> <3188E3B198954559BE7B753E34BFA394@bboffice> Message-ID: <4E0533D6.1090306@gmail.com> > Message for TJ Wakeman. > Your excelllent TR website is broken, I keep getting shot back to the > Alladins lamps. > Sorry I've been having problems with masking of the URL so pointed the URL to the Aladdin site to see if masking worked there. No such luck. I'll put it back to the tr home page. It should work for everyone in a couple hours. By the way I recently made a lot of additions to the net nuggets section, added an updated page of miscl. pictures plus a few other minor changes. Sorry about the interruption Teriann From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Fri Jun 24 20:08:59 2011 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Fri, 24 Jun 2011 22:08:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] Originality issues In-Reply-To: <1e70c.36908880.3b36604d@aol.com> References: <1e70c.36908880.3b36604d@aol.com> Message-ID: >It gets a little fuzzy but I believe the TR3B > came next and although it was used up fairly well it was not modified and I > wanted it so I could join TRA and compete in Concours. > Cheers, > Darrell That answers a question I have been windering about i.e. has anyome ever said, "I want to buy a Triumph so I can show it!". Evidently so. Showing it was the farthest thing from my mind when I bought my TR3. John H. From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com Fri Jun 24 21:47:23 2011 From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly) Date: Fri, 24 Jun 2011 20:47:23 -0700 Subject: [TR] TRactor Engine 89MM Pistons Message-ID: <000001cc32ea$97ccf6f0$c766e4d0$@rr.com> Hi Folks, Has anyone upgraded their TRactor engine to the 89MM pistons/liners that quite a few shops are selling? If so, did your performance get better? Did it require different carb settings? Any problems getting head gaskets or other peripheral parts? I'm interested in an engine upgrade including a camshaft change. I drive the car to work daily (about 35 miles) and would like some spirited performance on the streets and the freeway, but would still like it to idle OK. Johnnie '67 TR4A with tired 87 MM pistons. From 61TR4ever at comcast.net Sat Jun 25 03:19:45 2011 From: 61TR4ever at comcast.net (Gary Grant) Date: Sat, 25 Jun 2011 05:19:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR Service Literature Needed Message-ID: Many thanks to those who responded to this request. However, I apparently took too much for granted and further explanation is needed. To do so, this is a very brief history/evolution of the TR Service Bulletins starting in 1954. Starting in 1954 Standard-Triumph issued the bulletins as Service Information Sheets and the numbering system format was Model/Sequential Number/Group. For example: Sports/16/R was the 16th bulletin issued under the R group (brakes) for the TR2. As the Western Zone distributor for S-T, CAL Sales, Inc. issued their own supplemental bulletins using strictly sequential numbering starting with number one and ending sometime before 1961. In 1958 S-T changed their numbering of Service Information Sheets to a Group/Sequential Number format. Using my requested bulletins as examples: 3/64 and 3/66 would be the 64th and 66th bulletins issued for group 3 (Rear Axle). The applicable models covered under the SIS would be contained in the sub-title of the bulletin itself. Starting is 1961, the various Zone offices would receive the Service Information Sheets and re-write them. These were only re-written in the sense that the UK spelling and terms were changed to the more familiar American spellings and terms (i.e.- trunk vs. boot, or color vs. colour). The most common of the issued bulletins used the format of T-61-6, with this example being the 6th bulletin issued in 1961. So far I have identified that at least 3 zones issued these, being the Eastern, Northeastern and Western Zones. There were bulletins issued as S series (sales) or SM series (Service Memo)in addition the T series. In 1968 the numbering was revised again when Triumph was acquired by British Leyand. This numbering system was slightly modified again in 1970 and was used until the demise of Triumph. Again, thank to all those that have responded. Gary 1961 TR4 CT 1547 L From auprichard at uprichard.net Sat Jun 25 06:23:38 2011 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Sat, 25 Jun 2011 08:23:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] question In-Reply-To: References: <1e70c.36908880.3b36604d@aol.com> Message-ID: <1B0658A4F25F480C8463959CBC1A5F31@DCH6RFC1> Do any of you brainiacs have any suggestions on how to clean up a very yellow-looking washer bottle for my TR250 - that is, if it is even possible? Not a big deal, but if there were a way to do it, I'd be interested. Thanks! Andrew Uprichard From tjwakeman at gmail.com Sat Jun 25 06:41:50 2011 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Sat, 25 Jun 2011 05:41:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] Originality issues In-Reply-To: References: <1e70c.36908880.3b36604d@aol.com> Message-ID: <4E05D78E.1030403@gmail.com> On 6/24/11 7:08 PM, John Herrera wrote: > That answers a question I have been windering about i.e. has anyome ever said, > "I want to buy a Triumph so I can show it!". Evidently so. > > Showing it was the farthest thing from my mind when I bought my TR3. > > Same here. When I first saw my TR3 sitting in a garage slowly being buried by garage flotsam, I had 2 things simultaneously going through my mind. One was an instant sadness for a cute British roadster that had fallen into such a state along with a need to mother it and bring it back to health. The other was visions of me and that lovely little car roaring along lonely winding mountain roads through the forest and along the coast. The only thing I thought of showing I had was my rear tail lights to any prey I happened to pounce upon along those roads. Teriann But I did join a local Triumph club right after I got her running and able to stop. From TR250Driver at aol.com Sat Jun 25 06:55:52 2011 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Sat, 25 Jun 2011 08:55:52 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Originality issues Message-ID: <438be.794031b5.3b3734d8@aol.com> In a message dated 6/24/2011 10:09:00 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, jrherrera90 at hotmail.com writes: I want to buy a Triumph so I can show it!". Evidently so Yes John, I specifically sought a TR3B since they were rarely seen at TRA Nationals. I was proud to display a example of this rare Triumph restored as original for other Triumph enthusiasts to see. It gets a lot of attention. I believe I have helped others with 3B's bring their cars along in the same manner. Now there are several out there showing & btw, driving in Rallyes and Tours that are associated with National Events. Beverly and I once won the Presidents Rallye at the Toronto Triumph's Club's Canadian Classic in a driving rain with the TR3B and then placed 1st in the Concours the next morning. Of course I was much younger then and could get up at the break of dawn to prepare it for showing. Which brings me to a point that may need to be made. Original Triumphs drive fine IMHO w/o any modifications. No need for fat tires, electronic ignition, pleated interiors, electric fans, etc. They are remarkably simple machines that if maintained properly have withstood the test of time and can keep up with modern cars on our super highways while giving a great driving experience on country roads. OK, TR3's don't like operating in stop and go city traffic on a hot day. Unless you have fitted the optional tropical fan. To each his own, hey? Darrell From guy at genfiniti.com Sat Jun 25 07:47:41 2011 From: guy at genfiniti.com (G.D. Huggins) Date: Sat, 25 Jun 2011 08:47:41 -0500 Subject: [TR] Mineral Oil Message-ID: <1520AE8A-8DBA-4EE1-90A6-6682E2FC03B4@genfiniti.com> Listers, I am doing a little research for when I go start this rebuilt engine up. Keep seeing recommendations to use "mineral oil" during the break-in period. Is mineral oil the same as motor oil? Back in the day all they had was the can of motor oil, so I assume that is what they are calling "mineral oil". Cheers, Guy D. Huggins 1965 Triumph TR4A CTC 63569LO Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph From zoboherald at aol.com Sat Jun 25 08:08:06 2011 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace) Date: Sat, 25 Jun 2011 10:08:06 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] question In-Reply-To: <1B0658A4F25F480C8463959CBC1A5F31@DCH6RFC1> References: <1e70c.36908880.3b36604d@aol.com> <1B0658A4F25F480C8463959CBC1A5F31@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: <8CE0158705E3A8C-FCC-CCF4@webmail-m003.sysops.aol.com> I've had some fairly good success soaking these in automatic dishwashing liquid...or even running them through the dishwasher! --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us -----Original Message----- From: Andrew Uprichard Do any of you brainiacs have any suggestions on how to clean up a very yellow-looking washer bottle for my TR250 - that is, if it is even possible? Not a big deal, but if there were a way to do it, I'd be interested. From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Sat Jun 25 09:00:05 2011 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Sat, 25 Jun 2011 11:00:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] Originality issues In-Reply-To: <438be.794031b5.3b3734d8@aol.com> References: <438be.794031b5.3b3734d8@aol.com> Message-ID: To each his own, hey? Darrell Absolutely, Darrell. Dont get me wrong. Competitive showing isn't my thing, but I'm not knocking it. Just trying to understand the appeal of competing in it. I do not want my car to be judged or even shown in Participant's Choice. When we made the registration form for TRA 2009, I wanted a third category; Display Only. Like Terianne, I envisioned myself blasting down a country road in my TR3, braking hard, heel-and-toe, double-clutch, downshift, turn in, nail the apex, and accelerate out in a classic four-wheel drift. I didn't know there was such a thing as competitive car-showing. Well, actually I did. I got started on sports cars by reading Road & Track when I was 11 years old. They printed an article about all the sports car competitions; autocross, rally, road racing, etc. A paragraph at the end was about concours d'elegance. I thought, "No one really does this do they?" Years later I found out they do! To get back on topic, I prefer the original cars, except for racing mods. Even then, my TR3 racecar was pretty stock. I tried to make it like it would be raced when new, except for required safety mods. The Blue TR3 is very original; never been restored. The Spax shocks are the only thing I can think of as changed. I'm like Bill Dentinger, "The more of that stuff you change, the less of a Triumph it is." John H. From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Jun 25 09:02:25 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 25 Jun 2011 08:02:25 -0700 Subject: [TR] question In-Reply-To: <1B0658A4F25F480C8463959CBC1A5F31@DCH6RFC1> References: <1e70c.36908880.3b36604d@aol.com> <1B0658A4F25F480C8463959CBC1A5F31@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: <031b01cc3348$e4dbe560$0301a8c0@randall> > Do any of you brainiacs have any suggestions on how to clean up a very > yellow-looking washer bottle for my TR250 - that is, if it is > even possible? I've not tried it yet, but something similar to this: http://retr0bright.wikispaces.com/ might work. They are talking about brightening ABS plastic, while your washer bottle is probably polypropylene, but there is at least some chance it might work. Another approach to try would be soaking in diluted chlorine bleach for a day or two. However, with either method, you need to keep an eye on it and stop as soon as it is white enough. Even then it may have weakened the plastic (so only try this with things that are not under pressure). -- Randall From TR250Driver at aol.com Sat Jun 25 09:22:30 2011 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Sat, 25 Jun 2011 11:22:30 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Originality issues Message-ID: <2414d.265a2b1d.3b375736@aol.com> In a message dated 6/25/2011 11:00:09 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, jrherrera90 at hotmail.com writes: Absolutely, Darrell. Dont get me wrong. Competitive showing isn't my thing, but I'm not knocking it. John, After so many years of doing it, it is really not my thing either. I park my Triumphs mostly in VTR's Senior & Preservation Concours Classes which are non-competitive since I have the qualifying 1st in class wins with most. TRA has their Premier Class for former BOS winners which is also non-competitive and offer up good parking spots on show day. Regards, Darrell From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Sat Jun 25 09:54:16 2011 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sat, 25 Jun 2011 08:54:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] Mineral Oil In-Reply-To: <1520AE8A-8DBA-4EE1-90A6-6682E2FC03B4@genfiniti.com> References: <1520AE8A-8DBA-4EE1-90A6-6682E2FC03B4@genfiniti.com> Message-ID: On 6/25/11, G.D. Huggins wrote: > I am doing a little research for when I go start this rebuilt engine up. > Keep seeing recommendations to use "mineral oil" during the break-in period. > Is mineral oil the same as motor oil? I'm thinking that straight-weight non-detergent motor oil is sometimes referred to as mineral oil. Of course braodly speaking it's pretty much all mineral oil and for that matter it's all synthetic. So I suppose your question may be -- what should I use for break-in -- and I would expect there are some much better choices than straight weight non-detergent oil. From Dave1massey at cs.com Sat Jun 25 10:35:55 2011 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sat, 25 Jun 2011 12:35:55 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Originality issues Message-ID: In a message dated 6/24/2011 4:49:02 PM Central Daylight Time, TR250Driver at aol.com writes: > Hey, Dave Massey is my choice to replace me as the Chief when my term > runs out in two years. HIP HIP HOORAY for Dave. How about it Guys? > > Well, I gotta warn you, if it were up to me I would put the 73 TR6's in with the later model TR6's. Why? Well lets list what they have in common: CF series engine J-type overdrive (if that was an issue, we don't look that deep) Later style frame Later style seats Later style dash board (gauge style, voltmeter vs ammeter, etc) Later style lighting switches Later style license plate light ...and the list goes on. What do the 73 model have in common with the early models: no rubber bumper overriders. Kind of superficial selection, don't you think. Of course all rules changes need the approval of the VTR board. \the above is presented in the interest of full disclosure. No tweets were harmed in this transaction. Seriously, Darrell's endorsement should be taken as a vote of confidence - or desperation. Not sure which. Dave From TRDOCTOR at aol.com Sat Jun 25 11:36:44 2011 From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com) Date: Sat, 25 Jun 2011 13:36:44 EDT Subject: [TR] Originality issues Message-ID: <5fe5.6b57ec6d.3b3776ac@aol.com> Only if he leaves the bag pipes at home! Sam > Hey, Dave Massey is my choice to replace me as the Chief when my term > runs > out in two years. HIP HIP HOORAY for Dave. How about it Guys? I'll second that! -- Randall From don.hiscock at gmail.com Sat Jun 25 13:17:24 2011 From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Sat, 25 Jun 2011 14:17:24 -0500 Subject: [TR] Mineral Oil In-Reply-To: <1520AE8A-8DBA-4EE1-90A6-6682E2FC03B4@genfiniti.com> References: <1520AE8A-8DBA-4EE1-90A6-6682E2FC03B4@genfiniti.com> Message-ID: "Mineral oil" is a general term for petroleum-based oils, and as such is quite broad. It contrasts to the similarly broad term "vegetable oil". Much more important to distinguish between the two types during the Edwardian era of motoring than today. Don TR3B TSF202L On 6/25/11, G.D. Huggins wrote: > Listers, > > I am doing a little research for when I go start this rebuilt engine up. > Keep seeing recommendations to use "mineral oil" during the break-in period. > Is mineral oil the same as motor oil? > > Back in the day all they had was the can of motor oil, so I assume that is > what they are calling "mineral oil". > > > > Cheers, > > Guy D. Huggins > 1965 Triumph TR4A > CTC 63569LO > > Online project diary at http://www.genfiniti.com/triumph > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com From Loumetelko at aol.com Sat Jun 25 15:16:17 2011 From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com) Date: Sat, 25 Jun 2011 17:16:17 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Originality issues Message-ID: In a message dated 6/25/2011 10:12:46 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, TR250Driver at aol.com writes: I specifically sought a TR2 Long Door since they were rarely seen at TRA Nationals. I was proud to display a example of this rare Triumph restored as original for other Triumph enthusiasts to see. It gets a lot of attention. Which brings me to a point that may need to be made. Original Triumphs drive fine IMHO w/o any modifications. No need for fat tires, electronic ignition, pleated interiors, electric fans, etc. They are remarkably simple machines that if maintained properly have withstood the test of time and can keep up with modern cars on our super highways while giving a great driving experience on country roads. OK, TR3's don't like operating in stop and go city traffic on a hot day. Unless you have fitted the optional tropical fan. When I first saw that TR2 Long Door in the corner of a storage shed in Bowling Green, Kentucky I knew it was destined for the show field at a TRA National. Like Darrell's cars it is driven and enjoyed all season to the tune of about 4,000 miles yet it competes in TRA's tough Concours. What needs to be stressed is that the 2s, 3s and 4s were state of the art in the 50s and 60s so what's the sense in adding "mods" when all you are doing is decreasing its value. My incessant flag waving states to rebuild the original component! I live near the Auburn, Cord, Duesenberg Museum and as such it is common to see examples of those classics in a driveway or parked downtown. I shudder to thing what would be done to an owner of those cars who started slapping "mods" on them! I eagerly await 2012's TRA National in Little Switzerland, North Carolina when my co-pilot and I will drive nonstop to the meet in the most dependable car I have ever owned! Lou Metelko Auburn, Indiana 54 TR2LD TS981L From r_rochlin at hotmail.com Sun Jun 26 05:17:12 2011 From: r_rochlin at hotmail.com (Bob Rochlin) Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2011 11:17:12 +0000 Subject: [TR] originality issues Message-ID: Hi John, For myself I bought my car for a number of reasons, but foremost was to be able to, in essence, drive back like in the seventies. My TR6 leans a little too much in hard turns and clunks every once in a while when I start and the O/D is awkward, but thats what those cars did, almost from new. To me, thats the fun of having an old car. Aside from that, keeping the car stock is cheaper when repairing than upgrades. The only modern upgrade I've made the adjustable shackles to adjust the camber in the rear wheels easily. All that being said, I understand that many people have different ideas of what they want in their classic car, and there are the issues of safety upgrades, such as brakes, in older cars.Bob Rochlin'72 TR6 From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Sun Jun 26 05:29:00 2011 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2011 07:29:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] (no subject) Message-ID: My dear! Trust me and Ill help you soon!. http://niftytrends.megabyet.net/sites.friend.php?opehotmailID=27jg7 From tjwakeman at gmail.com Sun Jun 26 06:18:50 2011 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2011 05:18:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] originality issues In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4E0723AA.8090807@gmail.com> The more I read people saying how wonderful it is to keep their TRs as stock drivers the more I feel like a TR pariah disguised as a member of the herd. She looks like a herd member to the casual glance and even at an external once over. The only funny things easily noticeable without popping the bonnet or crawling under it is the Motoleta steering wheel and the gauges. The tach is rotated to the higher numbers are at the top of the gauge, and the cluster is: top left combination oil pressure/water temp., bottom left oil temperature, top right, fuel, bottom right volt meter. At least they all have the correct lens and manufacturer. Other than that and the Simpson seat belts she looks pretty stock from the outside top. OK, she was sitting next to a fresh rebuilt stock TR3 a couple weeks ago and it was noticeable that she sits about 1-1/2 or 2 inches lower than the other 3. So I feel confident that we can causually fit in with the TR pro keep it stock group and not be ostracized. But I do have a heavy right foot and can't seem to keep my hands off the drive train and suspension. And evidently that is not mainstream on this list. A couple weeks ago a very lovely limited slip was slipped under my TR3. It has done wonders at taming the rear of my car punching it out of a tight corner. I guess I'm more the "sports car" type than the "Classic car" type and take a lot of enjoyment out of the "sports" part. Teriann From terryrs at comcast.net Sun Jun 26 06:50:35 2011 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2011 12:50:35 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Just sort of interesting.... In-Reply-To: <4E0723AA.8090807@gmail.com> Message-ID: <642172070.28710.1309092635764.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Been reading the posts about originality, and it occurred to me that my TR3A was built in 1959, sold in 1960. Somebody(s) drove it until 1975,then it was purchased and parked in a shed in Ossinee, NY until I picked it up in 2002. So...It was driven for 15 years before I had it. I've been driving it for about 8 now, or a third of its street life. On another note, one of the fun things is when I carry passengers from work...those not afraid to get in it, by the way...I only have to do a quick punch the the starter button and it roars to life. This would be new style starter, electronic ignition and electric fuel pump along with the usual. What it doesn't do is sit there cranking, coughing, and sputtering to reluctant awakening from a coma. One of my workers likes the adventure of the car. I let her wear my SF Giants retro wool ball cap from the 60's and my Ray Bans. One of my other workers refuses to get in; she thinks it's too small and unsafe. My wife will ride in it, but grips tightly to the chrome deadman's handle. I guess sports cars are not for everyone. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sun Jun 26 06:52:39 2011 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2011 07:52:39 -0500 Subject: [TR] originality issues In-Reply-To: <4E0723AA.8090807@gmail.com> References: <4E0723AA.8090807@gmail.com> Message-ID: <74FA71A7C0914B608A295E7D9DB48890@ranteer.local> I'm with teriann. my tr6 has been heavily modified with performance goodies. wouldn't have it any other way!!!!! in fact, if you look at the successful aftermarket people like goodparts, I suspect there are a lot of people who are not so enamored of 1950's, 60's, and 70's levels of performance. guess they haven't chimed in yet. -------------------------------------------------- From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2011 7:18 AM To: Subject: Re: [TR] originality issues > The more I read people saying how wonderful it is to keep their TRs as > stock drivers the more I feel like a TR pariah disguised as a member of > the herd. > > She looks like a herd member to the casual glance and even at an external > once over. The only funny things easily noticeable without popping the > bonnet or crawling under it is the Motoleta steering wheel and the gauges. > The tach is rotated to the higher numbers are at the top of the gauge, and > the cluster is: top left combination oil pressure/water temp., bottom left > oil temperature, top right, fuel, bottom right volt meter. At least they > all have the correct lens and manufacturer. Other than that and the > Simpson seat belts she looks pretty stock from the outside top. OK, she > was sitting next to a fresh rebuilt stock TR3 a couple weeks ago and it > was noticeable that she sits about 1-1/2 or 2 inches lower than the other > 3. So I feel confident that we can causually fit in with the TR pro keep > it stock group and not be ostracized. > > But I do have a heavy right foot and can't seem to keep my hands off the > drive train and suspension. And evidently that is not mainstream on this > list. A couple weeks ago a very lovely limited slip was slipped under my > TR3. It has done wonders at taming the rear of my car punching it out of > a tight corner. > > I guess I'm more the "sports car" type than the "Classic car" type and > take a lot of enjoyment out of the "sports" part. > > Teriann From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Sun Jun 26 06:56:02 2011 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2011 05:56:02 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Mineral Oil Message-ID: <1309092962.37624.YahooMailClassic@web83304.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> We recently had the Lycoming engine rebuilt on the company plane (GA Tiger). For the first 100 flying hours the rebuilder had us run mineral oil for break-in so the rings would seat, or some reason like that. We bought the oil through the aviation community somewhere. Bill in Tehachapi From: "G.D. Huggins" To: triumphs at autox.team.net, RedRiverTriumph at yahoogroups.com Subject: [TR] Mineral Oil Message-ID: <1520AE8A-8DBA-4EE1-90A6-6682E2FC03B4 at genfiniti.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Listers, I am doing a little research for when I go start this rebuilt engine up. Keep seeing recommendations to use "mineral oil" during the break-in period. Is mineral oil the same as motor oil? Back in the day all they had was the can of motor oil, so I assume that is what they are calling "mineral oil". Cheers, Guy D. Huggins From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sun Jun 26 07:30:05 2011 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2011 09:30:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Dash gauge knurled nuts In-Reply-To: <1017962637.1942383.1308703603428.JavaMail.root@vznit170128> References: <1017962637.1942383.1308703603428.JavaMail.root@vznit170128> Message-ID: <005401cc3405$29ca33e0$7d5e9ba0$@net> Ok - thought I had them all - but missing two. Does anyone know the thread size of the knurled nut on the back of the small gauges on the TR3? Or alternatively - would happen to have two they can spare? Or know of a source? Evidently the rebuilt temp gauge didn't come back with them (not even sure if they were sent along with the core for the rebuild - too many years ago) From wbeech at flash.net Sun Jun 26 07:57:17 2011 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2011 07:57:17 -0600 Subject: [TR] originality issues In-Reply-To: <4E0723AA.8090807@gmail.com> References: <4E0723AA.8090807@gmail.com> Message-ID: TeriAnn, How did you lower the car 2"? It seems it is all I can do to keep things from dragging on the high spots with a stock suspension? I think we just need to resolve there are two camps; those, who like coin or stamp collectors, just want everything in it's place like it came from the factory and others who appreciate the look but want a car that will perform and keep up with today's standards. I am in the first camp now but have often thought that if I could afford a second TR3 I would be much like TeriAnn and try to maintain a stock appearance with a nice late model drive train and suspension. Took Tarbaby on her final drive in Utah yesterday, loading it into the back of a U-Haul truck next week for the trip to Texas. Nice flat, twisty, high limit roads to get out and play on. Bottom line: Enjoy you're your TR, wherever you are in this discussion. All the best, Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TeriAnn J. Wakeman Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2011 6:19 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] originality issues The more I read people saying how wonderful it is to keep their TRs as stock drivers the more I feel like a TR pariah disguised as a member of the herd. She looks like a herd member to the casual glance and even at an external once over. The only funny things easily noticeable without popping the bonnet or crawling under it is the Motoleta steering wheel and the gauges. The tach is rotated to the higher numbers are at the top of the gauge, and the cluster is: top left combination oil pressure/water temp., bottom left oil temperature, top right, fuel, bottom right volt meter. At least they all have the correct lens and manufacturer. Other than that and the Simpson seat belts she looks pretty stock from the outside top. OK, she was sitting next to a fresh rebuilt stock TR3 a couple weeks ago and it was noticeable that she sits about 1-1/2 or 2 inches lower than the other 3. So I feel confident that we can causually fit in with the TR pro keep it stock group and not be ostracized. But I do have a heavy right foot and can't seem to keep my hands off the drive train and suspension. And evidently that is not mainstream on this list. A couple weeks ago a very lovely limited slip was slipped under my TR3. It has done wonders at taming the rear of my car punching it out of a tight corner. I guess I'm more the "sports car" type than the "Classic car" type and take a lot of enjoyment out of the "sports" part. Teriann triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com Sun Jun 26 08:09:17 2011 From: jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com (John Young) Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2011 07:09:17 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 Dash gauge knurled nuts In-Reply-To: <005401cc3405$29ca33e0$7d5e9ba0$@net> Message-ID: <844225.15130.qm@web81408.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I believe that they are metric threads. According to my Triumph notes they are M5-0.75. I am not sure of this, I just read it somewhere. John Young NASS# 528 Indiana '78 Spitfire '66 Spitfire '59 TR3A (getting body work) '59 TR10 ruuning, but not ready for the highway. --- On Sun, 6/26/11, Carl TR wrote: > From: Carl TR > Subject: [TR] TR3 Dash gauge knurled nuts > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Sunday, June 26, 2011, 9:30 AM > Ok - thought I had them all - but > missing two. > > Does anyone know the thread size of the knurled nut on the > back of the small > gauges on the TR3? Or alternatively - would happen to have > two they can > spare? Or know of a source? > > Evidently the rebuilt temp gauge didn't come back with them > (not even sure > if they were sent along with the core for the rebuild - too > many years ago) > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com From tjwakeman at gmail.com Sun Jun 26 08:34:44 2011 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2011 07:34:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] originality issues In-Reply-To: References: <4E0723AA.8090807@gmail.com> Message-ID: <4E074384.80502@gmail.com> On 6/26/11 6:57 AM, wbeech at flash.net wrote: > if I could afford a second TR3 I would be much like > TeriAnn and try to maintain a stock appearance with a nice late model drive > train and suspension. > Late model drive train & suspension?? My 3 still has its factory original engine block, and rear axle housing. By late model do you mean my TR4 gearbox? It is basically an original factory TR3A drive train and suspension with the addition of a TR4 gearbox and aftermarket parts. Since original parts have dried up, any rebuild or replacement of worn parts done these days is done with aftermarket parts. It is more a matter of choosing between stock like aftermarket parts or performance aftermarket parts. Can you even find factory 83mm pistons & liners any more? I would be more apt to have said "try to maintain a stock appearance with performance uprated drive train and suspension components. OK, I'll admit to a late model alternator. Is having an original crank shaft balanced, nitrided and journals cross drilled turning it into a late model crank? I always thought a "late model drive train" would be something like a Toyota gearbox swap into a TR body, not swapping in a TR4 gearbox into TR3. Maybe I'm wrong though. The gearbox is 3 or 4 years newer than the car. Teriann From mdporter at dfn.com Sun Jun 26 08:34:55 2011 From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter) Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2011 08:34:55 -0600 Subject: [TR] originality issues In-Reply-To: References: <4E0723AA.8090807@gmail.com> Message-ID: <4E07438F.8090302@dfn.com> On 6/26/2011 7:57 AM, wbeech at flash.net wrote: > TeriAnn, How did you lower the car 2"? It seems it is all I can do to keep > things from dragging on the high spots with a stock suspension? > > I think we just need to resolve there are two camps; those, who like coin or > stamp collectors, Umm, well, you tell me. The only difference I see in stamp collectors is whether they go ga-ga over cancelled stamps or uncancelled ones. I don't know of any diehard stamp collectors who are altering the artwork on 1953 U.S. airmails because they don't like propeller engines.... :) Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jun 26 08:38:33 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2011 07:38:33 -0700 Subject: [TR] originality issues In-Reply-To: <4E0723AA.8090807@gmail.com> References: <4E0723AA.8090807@gmail.com> Message-ID: <03f701cc340e$b9c7b040$0301a8c0@randall> > The more I read people saying how wonderful it is to keep > their TRs as > stock drivers the more I feel like a TR pariah disguised as a > member of the herd. Pariah? I hardly think so. It's just that the folks who don't feel the pressure to conform to the herd also don't talk about it much. Herman is selling Toyota transmissions for TRs as fast as he can make them. How do you like the LSD? I've got one myself, but haven't found time to install it yet (along with a 3.45 gear set to help make up for the short tires). -- Randall From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sun Jun 26 08:39:05 2011 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2011 10:39:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] originality issues In-Reply-To: References: <4E0723AA.8090807@gmail.com> Message-ID: <005c01cc340e$cf86db90$6e9492b0$@net> Have a safe drive Bill. Be sure to buckle that thing in real good. Too many horror stories. Carl -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of wbeech at flash.net Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2011 9:57 AM To: 'TeriAnn J. Wakeman'; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] originality issues TeriAnn, How did you lower the car 2"? It seems it is all I can do to keep things from dragging on the high spots with a stock suspension? I think we just need to resolve there are two camps; those, who like coin or stamp collectors, just want everything in it's place like it came from the factory and others who appreciate the look but want a car that will perform and keep up with today's standards. I am in the first camp now but have often thought that if I could afford a second TR3 I would be much like TeriAnn and try to maintain a stock appearance with a nice late model drive train and suspension. Took Tarbaby on her final drive in Utah yesterday, loading it into the back of a U-Haul truck next week for the trip to Texas. Nice flat, twisty, high limit roads to get out and play on. Bottom line: Enjoy you're your TR, wherever you are in this discussion. All the best, Bill Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" www.triumphowners.com/1566 "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TeriAnn J. Wakeman Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2011 6:19 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] originality issues The more I read people saying how wonderful it is to keep their TRs as stock drivers the more I feel like a TR pariah disguised as a member of the herd. She looks like a herd member to the casual glance and even at an external once over. The only funny things easily noticeable without popping the bonnet or crawling under it is the Motoleta steering wheel and the gauges. The tach is rotated to the higher numbers are at the top of the gauge, and the cluster is: top left combination oil pressure/water temp., bottom left oil temperature, top right, fuel, bottom right volt meter. At least they all have the correct lens and manufacturer. Other than that and the Simpson seat belts she looks pretty stock from the outside top. OK, she was sitting next to a fresh rebuilt stock TR3 a couple weeks ago and it was noticeable that she sits about 1-1/2 or 2 inches lower than the other 3. So I feel confident that we can causually fit in with the TR pro keep it stock group and not be ostracized. But I do have a heavy right foot and can't seem to keep my hands off the drive train and suspension. And evidently that is not mainstream on this list. A couple weeks ago a very lovely limited slip was slipped under my TR3. It has done wonders at taming the rear of my car punching it out of a tight corner. I guess I'm more the "sports car" type than the "Classic car" type and take a lot of enjoyment out of the "sports" part. Teriann triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net From McGaheyRx at aol.com Sun Jun 26 09:09:50 2011 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2011 11:09:50 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] originality issues Message-ID: <1a9a7.1c4f4b4f.3b38a5be@aol.com> I don't understand why words like "pariah" and "ostracized" would appear in this discussion! Is it "wrong" to be intensely interested in originality and to enjoy the experience of driving these cars the way they were built in the ear they were built? Of course not. Is it "wrong" to heavily modify these cars to see how much performance one can wring out of them or to improve their reliability for daily use? how could that be "wrong"? Cheers, Jack Mc In a message dated 6/26/2011 8:20:50 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, tjwakeman at gmail.com writes: The more I read people saying how wonderful it is to keep their TRs as stock drivers the more I feel like a TR pariah disguised as a member of the herd. From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jun 26 09:12:53 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2011 08:12:53 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Dash gauge knurled nuts In-Reply-To: <005401cc3405$29ca33e0$7d5e9ba0$@net> References: <1017962637.1942383.1308703603428.JavaMail.root@vznit170128> <005401cc3405$29ca33e0$7d5e9ba0$@net> Message-ID: <040001cc3413$85c699f0$0301a8c0@randall> > Does anyone know the thread size of the knurled nut on the > back of the small gauges on the TR3? I'm not certain they are all the same, but the post-60K TR3A fuel gauge I just checked appears to have 3BA threads. -- Randall From McGaheyRx at aol.com Sun Jun 26 09:13:16 2011 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2011 11:13:16 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] originality issues Message-ID: <1abab.40d5997.3b38a68c@aol.com> Then count me as having one foot firmly planted in each camp - and I wouldn't want to be any place where both aren't welcome. Cheers, Jack Mc In a message dated 6/26/2011 10:27:16 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, wbeech at flash.net writes: I think we just need to resolve there are two camps From McGaheyRx at aol.com Sun Jun 26 09:18:04 2011 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2011 11:18:04 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Originality issues Message-ID: <1aeda.71caa66c.3b38a7ac@aol.com> In a message dated 6/25/2011 1:57:43 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, Dave1massey at cs.com writes: Well, I gotta warn you, if it were up to me I would put the 73 TR6's in with the later model TR6's. Can't argue with your logic at all - makes perfect sense - except, as a practical matter, it won't work. The late TR6 class is already way bigger than early TR6 at every event - move the 73s to late and you'll have a 1 or 2 car early TR6 class and a late TR6 class so big nobody will want to spend their whole day judging it. Good luck with that. Cheers, Jack Mc From auprichard at uprichard.net Sun Jun 26 09:36:38 2011 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2011 11:36:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] question In-Reply-To: <1309092665.99744.YahooMailNeo@web36102.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <1e70c.36908880.3b36604d@aol.com> <1B0658A4F25F480C8463959CBC1A5F31@DCH6RFC1> <1309092665.99744.YahooMailNeo@web36102.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <687A322AC02646BD92C52E94DF080CB0@DCH6RFC1> Thanks to all who replied. I had tried vinegar and bleach, as well as those effervescent tablets used to clean dentures (they work a charm for glass decanter bottles) - all to no avail. Randall had suggested Retr0bright and sent a link - I'll give it a try and get back to y'all. Andrew Uprichard _____ From: Dale [mailto:tpdwinch at yahoo.com] Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2011 8:51 AM To: Andrew Uprichard; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] question Andrew There was a suggestion in the past to fill the bottle in a container, for inside snd outside of the bottle, with a light mixture of vinegarand let it sit for a few days. Dale From: Andrew Uprichard To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Saturday, June 25, 2011 8:23 AM Subject: [6pack] question Do any of you brainiacs have any suggestions on how to clean up a very yellow-looking washer bottle for my TR250 - that is, if it is even possible? Not a big deal, but if there were a way to do it, I'd be interested. Thanks! Andrew Uprichard ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tpdwinch at yahoo.com From auprichard at uprichard.net Sun Jun 26 09:40:41 2011 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2011 11:40:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] originality issues In-Reply-To: <03f701cc340e$b9c7b040$0301a8c0@randall> References: <4E0723AA.8090807@gmail.com> <03f701cc340e$b9c7b040$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <37D3AD260B95459296C1941C861BD14F@DCH6RFC1> I am for as many upgrades as I can get - and in fact have drafted an article for the Vintage Triumph about my experiences. Having said that, they still break down! Had to walk home last night after a major malfunction. Pulling the gearbox this afternoon. As Titus Oates (of Scott of the Antarctic) said: "I am just going outside and may be some time" Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2011 10:39 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] originality issues > The more I read people saying how wonderful it is to keep > their TRs as > stock drivers the more I feel like a TR pariah disguised as a > member of the herd. Pariah? I hardly think so. It's just that the folks who don't feel the pressure to conform to the herd also don't talk about it much. Herman is selling Toyota transmissions for TRs as fast as he can make them. How do you like the LSD? I've got one myself, but haven't found time to install it yet (along with a 3.45 gear set to help make up for the short tires). -- Randall triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sun Jun 26 09:51:51 2011 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2011 11:51:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] interior insulation - TR3 Message-ID: <007501cc3418$faa83990$eff8acb0$@net> Reference: http://www.lobucrod.com/newinspics.html (pictures) http://www.lobucrod.com/index.html (home page) http://www.shanescitshed.com/cx2500/air-con/citroen_cx_insulation.html (installation plus some heat/sound comparison data) "closed cell polyethylene microfoam core with a 99% pure aluminum facing on each side" I am not particularly fond of the idea of putting in 'underfelt' in a high humidity application. I looked at the 'bubble-wrap'/aluminum backed insulation but this seems to be of better construction/materials. Anyone know of the product or used anything like this? Hey, it might actually be on the road soon.... What can I say! Carl From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jun 26 11:25:30 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2011 10:25:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] interior insulation - TR3 In-Reply-To: <007501cc3418$faa83990$eff8acb0$@net> References: <007501cc3418$faa83990$eff8acb0$@net> Message-ID: <042901cc3426$0c99cf30$0301a8c0@randall> > Anyone know of the product or used anything like this? Not I. But I would be more impressed if they talked about R-value (how well it insulates) rather than how 'pure' the aluminum is. Pure aluminum is an awful metal, it's only usable when alloyed with other elements. And of course it can't actually be pure aluminum, since pure aluminum almost instantly oxidizes when exposed to air (giving it a layer of aluminum oxide). I might be more inclined to go with something like: http://tinyurl.com/3ztk7rp since they do talk about how well it insulates (R15.6 is very good for only 1/4") and it's cheaper as well. But I just use the foil/felt stuff from Home Depot. If it gets wet, I take it out to dry, just like the carpet. -- Randall From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Jun 26 12:22:05 2011 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2011 14:22:05 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Originality issues Message-ID: <11069.12001160.3b38d2cd@cs.com> In a message dated 6/26/2011 10:18:05 AM Central Daylight Time, McGaheyRx at aol.com writes: > Can't argue with your logic at all - makes perfect sense - except, as a > practical matter, it won't work. The late TR6 class is already way bigger > than early TR6 at every event - move the 73s to late and you'll have a 1 or 2 > car early TR6 class and a late TR6 class so big nobody will want to spend > their whole day judging it. Good luck with that. > > Dammit! YOu gotta bring pragmatism into it, don't you? ;-) Dave From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sun Jun 26 12:30:34 2011 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2011 14:30:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] interior insulation - TR3 In-Reply-To: <042901cc3426$0c99cf30$0301a8c0@randall> References: <007501cc3418$faa83990$eff8acb0$@net> <042901cc3426$0c99cf30$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <007901cc342f$27c438a0$774ca9e0$@net> In the EZ-Cool FAQ's: Q: What is the R Value? A: Down = 13 Horizontal = 9.6 Up = 8.1 This is better than 2" of fiberglass insulation. Not sure what the different directions mean.... Direction of heat source? Can't see why up and down shouldn't be the same unless it is because heat rises 'through' the material. The product appears to be the same with perhaps a different nominal thickness 3/16 vs 1/4; R13 v R15.6; but as you say - less expensive for more R-factor. I probably only need a 25' roll but for only $20 more... why not - could double up some of the worse areas (firewall; tranny cover, over exhaust system) Thanks Carl -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2011 1:26 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] interior insulation - TR3 > Anyone know of the product or used anything like this? Not I. But I would be more impressed if they talked about R-value (how well it insulates) rather than how 'pure' the aluminum is. Pure aluminum is an awful metal, it's only usable when alloyed with other elements. And of course it can't actually be pure aluminum, since pure aluminum almost instantly oxidizes when exposed to air (giving it a layer of aluminum oxide). I might be more inclined to go with something like: http://tinyurl.com/3ztk7rp since they do talk about how well it insulates (R15.6 is very good for only 1/4") and it's cheaper as well. But I just use the foil/felt stuff from Home Depot. If it gets wet, I take it out to dry, just like the carpet. -- Randall triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net From hdrider570 at att.net Sun Jun 26 12:32:16 2011 From: hdrider570 at att.net (hdrider570 at att.net) Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2011 11:32:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] interior insulation - TR3 Message-ID: <4E077B30.7070109@att.net> From ambritts at bellsouth.net Sun Jun 26 13:20:16 2011 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2011 15:20:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] Brake light - update Message-ID: <3B8BC70C99B848BD99E7B2343DB18B79@AlexPC> Here's the latest on my brake light issues: 59 TR3A - needed a brake light switch. Put in a new one from NAPA. Lights come right on-problem almost solved. Then noticed one was brighter than the other. This is where I put a jumper on the bright one and then over to the dim one. Everything was good. Took it out last weekend, no brake lights. also, checked all the connections, grounds, etc. Switched the wires in the tail light assembly for every conceivable combination. Today's effort: Took the jumper wire off. Lights work, almost. :o) Did all the switching of wires (red & green) in the rear. Where it sits right now here's what I have. The driver side work with the tail lights on and the brake applied. The right side works with the tail light on, but goes out when the brake pedal is depressed. Or The brake light works if the tail light is not on. Will go out if the tail lights are put on when the brake is depressed. Upon observing the bulb, the same element is coming on for both lights, hence canceling the other if both applied at the same time. Ground wires appear to be good as the lights work independently. Both bulbs good. Elements intact, and switched from side to side where both elements function. So best case scenario, I have tails and one brake light, or two brake lights, until I put on the tail lights, then it reverts to two tail lights and one brake light. My solution at this point with my exceptional electrical savvy is to not drive at night where I will not need tail lights. :o) Any ideas? Alex Manzo 59 TR3A From TR250Driver at aol.com Sun Jun 26 15:45:59 2011 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2011 17:45:59 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Just sort of interesting.... Message-ID: <4587.c69dcc3.3b390296@aol.com> In a message dated 6/26/2011 8:53:26 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, terryrs at comcast.net writes: ...I only have to do a quick punch the the starter button and it roars to life. This would be new style starter, electronic ignition and electric fuel pump along with the usual. What it doesn't do is sit there cranking, coughing, and sputtering to reluctant awakening from a coma. Well Darn, Go Figure. MY 3B will roar to life with a quick punch as well if I have been running her daily and it's not below freezing where just a little choke may be required. Stock starter, points ignition, mechanical fuel pump with all the original stuff. OK, if it has been sitting for a month or so a squirt of starting fluid may be required just cause I am too lazy to use the AC fuel pump priming lever. Darrell From TR250Driver at aol.com Sun Jun 26 15:47:46 2011 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2011 17:47:46 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] originality issues Message-ID: <462d.779ea1f6.3b390302@aol.com> Right on Jack, I've been trying to say that. I go both ways as well. Whatever Floats You Boat, Darrell In a message dated 6/26/2011 11:33:11 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, McGaheyRx at aol.com writes: Is it "wrong" to be intensely interested in originality and to enjoy the experience of driving these cars the way they were built in the ear they were built? Of course not. Is it "wrong" to heavily modify these cars to see how much performance one can wring out of them or to improve their reliability for daily use? how could that be "wrong"? From Loumetelko at aol.com Sun Jun 26 16:27:41 2011 From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com) Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2011 18:27:41 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Just sort of interesting.... Message-ID: <51e5d.34742657.3b390c5d@aol.com> In a message dated 6/26/2011 6:26:44 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, Loumetelko at aol.com writes: ...I only have to do a quick punch the the starter button and it roars to life. This would be new style starter, electronic ignition and electric fuel pump along with the usual. What it doesn't do is sit there cranking, coughing, and sputtering to reluctant awakening from a coma. Well Darn, Go Figure. MY 3B will roar to life with a quick punch as well if I have been running her daily and it's not below freezing where just a little choke may be required. Stock starter, points ignition, mechanical fuel pump with all the original stuff. OK, if it has been sitting for a month or so a squirt of starting fluid may be required just cause I am too lazy to use the AC fuel pump priming lever. Darrell I agree. My 2 will roar to life after less than 1/2 revolution from the stock starter. That's using the same points, condenser, rotor and wires for the last two years. I want to know how a modern "mod" will improve on my reliability. Lou Metelko Auburn, Indiana From dwillner at ptd.net Sun Jun 26 16:30:09 2011 From: dwillner at ptd.net (davewillner) Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2011 18:30:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 heater switch Message-ID: I went to take off my heater switch knob this morning to replace it and the entire shaft came along with it...is this repairable somehow, or do I need to search a replacement out? Thanks Dave Willner Stroudsburg PA 59 TR3A 70 MGB 70 BSA 441 VS From jimmuller at rcn.com Sun Jun 26 16:50:36 2011 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2011 18:50:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] Just sort of interesting.... In-Reply-To: <642172070.28710.1309092635764.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <4E0723AA.8090807@gmail.com> Message-ID: <4E077F7C.29810.FFF88AA@localhost> On 26 Jun 2011 at 12:50, terryrs at comcast.net wrote: > One of my workers likes the adventure of the car. I let her > wear my SF Giants retro wool ball cap from the 60's and my > Ray Bans.... My wife will ride in it, > but grips tightly to the chrome deadman's handle. What's interesting is that your wife lets you take this other woman out for rides (and while wearing your stuff yet)! -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From zoboherald at aol.com Sun Jun 26 16:54:30 2011 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace) Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2011 18:54:30 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Brake light - update In-Reply-To: <3B8BC70C99B848BD99E7B2343DB18B79@AlexPC> References: <3B8BC70C99B848BD99E7B2343DB18B79@AlexPC> Message-ID: <8CE026B2497F742-FCC-19D8F@webmail-m003.sysops.aol.com> What you're now describing sounds like a classic bad ground on that lamp. You'll need to either add a ground or clean up whatever ground you have on that lamp. --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us -----Original Message----- From: Alex Here's the latest on my brake light issues: ...The right side works with the tail light on, but goes out when the brake pedal is depressed. Or The brake light works if the tail light is not on. Will go out if the tail lights are put on when the brake is depressed. From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jun 26 17:41:19 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2011 16:41:19 -0700 Subject: [TR] Brake light - update In-Reply-To: <3B8BC70C99B848BD99E7B2343DB18B79@AlexPC> References: <3B8BC70C99B848BD99E7B2343DB18B79@AlexPC> Message-ID: <046901cc345a$8cbd9f00$0301a8c0@randall> > Ground wires appear to be good as the lights > work independently. Nope, doesn't work that way. What happens when one fixture is not grounded is that the current flows one filament to the bulb shell, then because that is not grounded, it goes back through the other filament in that fixture, and to ground through the unlit filament in the other fixture. Effectively all three filaments are in series, but because an unlit filament has a much lower resistance than a lit one, only the 'dim' filament comes on (because it also has higher resistance than the 'bright' filaments). Almost certainly, either your RH lamp is not grounded, or the bulb isn't making good electrical contact with the socket. I had a lot of trouble with the ground connection between bulb and socket on my 3A, until I cleaned both surfaces up good with a Scotch-brite pad and then gave them a light coat of Vaseline. Be sure to pay attention to the place where the pins on the bulb rest against the barrel of the socket, since that is effectively the only place there is contact in that fixture. -- Randall From elliottr at rmi.net Sun Jun 26 15:52:48 2011 From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott) Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2011 16:52:48 -0500 (GMT-05:00) Subject: [TR] Satin Black Powder coat Message-ID: <7146575.1309125168837.JavaMail.root@elwamui-ovcar.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Hi, I have been using Eastwood's powder coating supplies some and have been very happy with them. But, after doing the last 3 pieces n satin black I noticed that all of the items I have done in the satin black have a bit of texture to them, while all of the other items seem to be very smooth. So I am wondering, is the satin black supposed to feel that way, or am I doing something wrong. I suspect that I am doing something wrong, though it seems to only be affecting the satin black. Any ideas? Thanks, Roger Elliott From terryrs at comcast.net Sun Jun 26 19:10:23 2011 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2011 01:10:23 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Just sort of interesting.... In-Reply-To: <4E077F7C.29810.FFF88AA@localhost> Message-ID: <101110259.48467.1309137023814.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Oh. ...Uhm...she doesn't subscribe to this list! >What's interesting is that your wife lets you take this other woman >out for rides (and while wearing your stuff yet)! From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jun 26 19:13:27 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2011 18:13:27 -0700 Subject: [TR] [Fot] Fw: new oil infor In-Reply-To: References: <2892a27c-d463-4438-8e77-c8582fb61e91@blur> Message-ID: <001201cc3467$6c0a1e20$0301a8c0@randall> > There are Not street legal versions of both petroleum and > synthetic VR1's. hard to find and expensive. I was just looking at Valvoline's web site, and it lists only one "Valvoline Specialty Racing Oil (Not Street Legal)" (which does not say "VR1"). http://tinyurl.com/6hegkdb But it apparently has the same amount of ZDDP as both VR1 and VR1 synthetic. Note that VR1 and VR1 Synthetic meet several API standards (SH/SL/SM/SN/CD/CF) while the NSL stuff does not. I'm guessing that means the NSL doesn't have as many "long life" additives like detergents and anti-corrosion as VR1 does. The NSL also lists TBN less than 6 (which could mean 0), while VR1 lists TBN=8.5. BTW, Amazon lists Valvoline NSL at $40/case of 6. Not exactly cheap, but about what you'd pay for VR1 Synthetic in most stores. -- Randall From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com Sun Jun 26 20:54:54 2011 From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly) Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2011 19:54:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] Camshaft selections - TRactor Engines Message-ID: <000601cc3475$982aedf0$c880c9d0$@rr.com> Just finished the better part of the afternoon looking at camshaft design. The Tilden website was the best, but my head is still swimming with all the details and I'm not sure which one is best for me. What I want is to get some higher rev performance from the TRactor engine. In Southern Cal, freeway driving is mandatory, so high speed operation is needed. But, I drive on the streets as well so it needs to idle OK. The only autocross I do is at the conventions, and racing is not in the cards. >From my reading, a little longer duration might get me there. My engine is basically stock with 87MM pistons/liners. Stock head. 4-2-1 Headers with SS exhaust. Stock HS6 carbs using TW needles (what it came with). BP Northwest offers a 270 duration cam. TS Imports offers a 260 cam. Moss has one but I have no clue what the specs are. TRF and VB offers only the stock cam. I know Racetorations and Revington offer cams but I'm inclined to stay in the US. The Tilden site didn't offer anything to sell, just specs. To cut to the chase, what I'd like to get is some recommendations of the best combinations of cams/pistons/carbs that make the TRactor engine dance a little better. What combinations work best for a little more spirited performance? Thanks! Johnnie '67 TR4A From spitlist at cox.net Sun Jun 26 21:19:29 2011 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2011 20:19:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] VTR Message-ID: <7C116EC95DAA4F85AF6F481AF3383BD9@Vista> I just received my confirmation of my registration to the Breckenridge VTR. Hope to see a lot of you there! Joe From pethier at comcast.net Sun Jun 26 22:38:07 2011 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2011 04:38:07 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] VTR In-Reply-To: <7C116EC95DAA4F85AF6F481AF3383BD9@Vista> Message-ID: <31505376.192029.1309149487079.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> You bet, Joe. We will be there. We were sorry to miss the 2010 VTR, but it just didn't work out. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://www.mnautox.com ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Joe Curry" > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2011 10:19:29 PM > Subject: [TR] VTR > I just received my confirmation of my registration to the Breckenridge > VTR. > Hope to see a lot of you there! > > > > > > Joe > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pethier at comcast.net From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jun 26 23:45:23 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2011 22:45:23 -0700 Subject: [TR] Camshaft selections - TRactor Engines In-Reply-To: <000601cc3475$982aedf0$c880c9d0$@rr.com> References: <000601cc3475$982aedf0$c880c9d0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <005301cc348d$690f1150$0301a8c0@randall> You should contact Larry (through the web site), as he does sell TR2-4 cams from time to time. In fact I posted on here the last time he mentioned he was having a run made, but the response was minimal. And he does offer a street grind, which "should pull well from 2000 rpm to 6000 rpm". I didn't ask about idle (since I don't really care), but I'm guessing it should idle reasonably smooth at 1000 rpm or maybe 1200. However, even the stock camshaft should pull OK out beyond 5000 rpm. The factory redline was not because the engine ran out of cam, but because they weren't sure it would hold together for the entire warranty period if turned faster than that. IOW if you plan to turn over 5k for any length of time, you should pay particular attention to harmonic dampening, crank preparation, pushrods, balancing, etc. FWIW, Larry offers either regrinds on stock cores, or new grinds on blanks he sources from the UK. On the regrinds, they have to cut into the shaft itself in the thicker section near the front. Haven't heard of anyone breaking one, but the factory supposedly added that thicker section because they saw excessive flex, so I opted for a new blank. I would also strongly recommend an overdrive. -- Randall From 61TR4ever at comcast.net Mon Jun 27 02:11:44 2011 From: 61TR4ever at comcast.net (Gary Grant) Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2011 04:11:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] Originality Issues Message-ID: My two cents  I am one of those who prefer originality restorations. If fact, Im almost anal about it. But I like doing it this way because I really enjoy the thrill of the hunt. I like doing the research required. There were a lot of undocumented changes in the TRs that have a bearing on originality. Ive found a few, and I continue looking for more. (This explains my obsession trying to gather the service bulletins). I also like doing the hands on work involved. To me there is nothing more satisfying than starting with a rusty, worn-out, 50 year old part and transforming it into a part that for all purposes appears to be NOS. Its a personal choice! But with that said, I have no intention of building a trailer queen and hope to drive my car as much as possible when finished. The TRs were primitive by todays standards, but they were probably one of the most reliable and rugged sports cars built during that era. They were made for driving hard. As I said, its a personal choice. I see nothing wrong with modernizing your TR, or modifying it for racing, or any other personal choice. Its a combination of all of the above choices that keep these cars out of the scrap yard, and that is the only thing that counts in the end. Gary TR4 1961 CT-1547-L From tjwakeman at gmail.com Mon Jun 27 06:39:43 2011 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2011 05:39:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] [Fot] Fw: new oil infor In-Reply-To: References: <2892a27c-d463-4438-8e77-c8582fb61e91@blur> Message-ID: <4E087A0F.3020804@gmail.com> On 6/26/11 5:32 PM, Kramer, Robert wrote: > There are Not street legal versions of both petroleum and synthetic VR1's. hard to find and expensive. > I get mine from my local Flagstaff NAPA store. Before I moved to Flagstaff I got mine at my local Salinas, CA NAPA store. They usually have a case out and a case or two in back. My guess is if the one nearest you doesn't stock it they can special order a case (6/case) Yes expensive, but way cheaper than replacing a cam & set of lifters. Teriann From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Mon Jun 27 06:56:09 2011 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2011 08:56:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] British Car Publication CDs In-Reply-To: <1309147809.v2.mailanyonewebmail-234588@fuseweb2d> References: <1309147809.v2.mailanyonewebmail-234588@fuseweb2d> Message-ID: Thought the list would find this of interest. I am still ticked that the old version don't work - $80 down the tube (for 2 of them) - and evidently no interest in offering 'upgrade' pricing. Guess I'll go back to the old fashion way - the manuals or some form of bootleg electronic copies. Carl From: Info Greer [mailto:support at markgreer-associates.com] Sent: Monday, June 27, 2011 12:10 AM To: cfmtr3a at verizon.net Subject: Re: British Car Publication CDs Hi Carl, Yes that is true they were re-mastered over a year ago to DVD using new copy - protection. Sadly the previous versions on CD work only on 2000 and XP using Acrobat 6 or 7. Kind Regards, Support ----- Original Message ----- From: "Carl TR" Sent: Sat, June 25, 2011 7:56 Subject: British Car Publication CDs I understand that the publications have been updated so that they run on post-Windows XP systems. Is a there key or something that will make the old ones work on new machines. Thank you Carl From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Jun 27 07:02:20 2011 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2011 09:02:20 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Satin Black Powder coat Message-ID: <3a5cf.7c95b718.3b39d95c@cs.com> In a message dated 6/26/2011 8:08:54 PM Central Daylight Time, elliottr at rmi.net writes: > I have been using Eastwood's powder coating supplies some and have been > very happy with them. But, after doing the last 3 pieces n satin black I > noticed that all of the items I have done in the satin black have a bit of > texture to them, while all of the other items seem to be very smooth. > > So I am wondering, is the satin black supposed to feel that way, or am I > doing something wrong. I suspect that I am doing something wrong, though it > seems to only be affecting the satin black. Any ideas? > Absolutely. That's how they get the satin look. It's the texture. If you clearcoat over a satin or flat finish it will come out gloss. Dave From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Mon Jun 27 07:29:57 2011 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2011 06:29:57 -0700 Subject: [TR] Just sort of interesting.... In-Reply-To: <51e5d.34742657.3b390c5d@aol.com> References: <51e5d.34742657.3b390c5d@aol.com> Message-ID: On Sun, Jun 26, 2011 at 3:27 PM, wrote: > Loumetelko at aol.com writes: > > I agree. My 2 will roar to life after less than 1/2 revolution from the > stock starter. > Or half a turn from the hand crank (which is about all you get with a hand crank). We had 2 little girls visiting last week and, of course, they took a seat in the TR3A. Kids always enjoy sitting in it and honking the horn but just for something different I took it out of gear and had them turn the key and press the button. Their faces really lit up with that engine came to life. Geo From ahwahneetr at gmail.com Mon Jun 27 07:32:31 2011 From: ahwahneetr at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2011 06:32:31 -0700 Subject: [TR] VTR In-Reply-To: <7C116EC95DAA4F85AF6F481AF3383BD9@Vista> References: <7C116EC95DAA4F85AF6F481AF3383BD9@Vista> Message-ID: Joe Curry wrote: > I just received my confirmation of my registration to the Breckenridge > VTR... > Me too. The thought of driving those mountain roads in the TR is very appealing. Geo From tjwakeman at gmail.com Mon Jun 27 07:42:49 2011 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2011 06:42:49 -0700 Subject: [TR] Camshaft selections - TRactor Engines In-Reply-To: <005301cc348d$690f1150$0301a8c0@randall> References: <000601cc3475$982aedf0$c880c9d0$@rr.com> <005301cc348d$690f1150$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <4E0888D9.2020206@gmail.com> On 6/26/11 10:45 PM, Randall wrote: > However, even the stock camshaft should pull OK out beyond 5000 rpm. The > factory redline was not because the engine ran out of cam, but because they > weren't sure it would hold together for the entire warranty period if turned > faster than that. Which makes the standard cam good for for a stock engine and maybe a mild 260 cam might have a bit more pull approaching 5000 RPM. Bigger cams, like a 280 degree cam pulls strong into the 6000 RPM area but that is not an area where stock engines should be playing. if memory serves, the reason for the 5000 RPM red line is that there is a real nasty harmonic around 5200 - 5400 RPM that breaks the crank at the base of the flywheel mounting flange if you spend much time in the low 5000 RPM range. The whole purpose of the common harmonic dampener kit is to tame that harmonic. I don't remember exactly where it is but I believe the next major harmonic is in the low to mid 6000 RPM range and it tends to break cranks in the middle and beat up the middle main bearing. Spend much time in that range and it probably would not hurt to drop the pan and inspect main bearings every once and a while. That said, fully prepped race engines often run at 6500 with a nitrided stock crank. My TR3 has the harmonic dampener kit and a nitrided crank. I usually shift at 6000 RPM when I'm on it and the engine has held together well. I have a 280 degree cam that pulls strongly to about 6000 RPM and has a wide peak. But with a totally stock engine I would shift at 5000 RPM just because I worry about major harmonics. Getting back to cams, compression affects how well they work. If you have a TR4 head & 87mm pistons the 260 degree cam might be best. But if you have the TR3 head with less squish area you might see added benefit with a 280 degree cam and a harmonic dampener kit. You need to go to an electric pusher fan if you go to the harmonic dampener kit. There have been soft lifters offered for sale over the years. Either buy new lifters that have already been individually hardness tested or have them tested before installing. Each should be Rockwell hardness or 56 or above. And be sure to use an oil with adequate ZDDP. Teriann From pethier at comcast.net Mon Jun 27 08:01:30 2011 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2011 14:01:30 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] VTR In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <628552340.199998.1309183290218.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> > From: "Geo Hahn" > Me too. The thought of driving those mountain roads in the TR is very > appealing. I have been thinking about driving the Stag on the Mount Evans Scenic Byway for several months. Then yesterday I got the PARADE in my Sunday paper and saw their article about one-tank trips from various cities. One was from Minneapolis to Red Wing (shades of VTR 2002) and another was from Denver to the Mount Evans Scenic Byway! Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://www.mnautox.com From don.hiscock at gmail.com Mon Jun 27 08:06:29 2011 From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2011 16:06:29 +0200 Subject: [TR] Satin Black Powder coat In-Reply-To: <3a5cf.7c95b718.3b39d95c@cs.com> References: <3a5cf.7c95b718.3b39d95c@cs.com> Message-ID: Seems to me the comments about surface texture area a matter of degree. Gloss is a "micro" optical property. Roughness is a "macro" surface property. Normal flatting agents in paints and coatings are designed to disrupt the surface on the micro level to cut gloss without making a big difference in macro roughness. Not seeing the articles in discussion, it's hard for us to fully understand the "bit of texture" observation. I think if a lower gloss powder coat -- especially an only slightly lower gloss satin --- is giving a substantially different surface texture, there's something else at work besides the intended gloss level. Don TR3B TSF202L On Mon, Jun 27, 2011 at 3:02 PM, wrote: > In a message dated 6/26/2011 8:08:54 PM Central Daylight Time, > elliottr at rmi.net writes: > > I have been using Eastwood's powder coating supplies some and have been > > very happy with them. But, after doing the last 3 pieces n satin black I > > noticed that all of the items I have done in the satin black have a bit > of > > texture to them, while all of the other items seem to be very smooth. > > > > So I am wondering, is the satin black supposed to feel that way, or am I > > doing something wrong. I suspect that I am doing something wrong, though > it > > seems to only be affecting the satin black. Any ideas? > > > Absolutely. That's how they get the satin look. It's the texture. If you > clearcoat over a satin or flat finish it will come out gloss. > > Dave > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/don.hiscock at gmail.com From member at linkedin.com Mon Jun 27 08:22:07 2011 From: member at linkedin.com (austin marshall via LinkedIn) Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2011 14:22:07 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Invitation to connect on LinkedIn Message-ID: <929516939.4932770.1309184527765.JavaMail.app@ela4-bed81.prod> LinkedIn ------------ austin marshall requested to add you as a connection on LinkedIn: ------------------------------------------ Ernest, I'd like to add you to my professional network on LinkedIn. - austin Accept invitation from austin marshall http://www.linkedin.com/e/5we255-gpfinyq9-3t/K2heipm-5MVQMKD4KVtHSCkbJML9PCLwZXGB/blk/I147902590_11/1BpC5vrmRLoRZcjkkZt5YCpnlOt3RApnhMpmdzgmhxrSNBszYNclYMejkOc3ATd359bQtFeklCpSxfbPgOczAOc34RcPcLrCBxbOYWrSlI/EML_comm_afe/ View invitation from austin marshall http://www.linkedin.com/e/5we255-gpfinyq9-3t/K2heipm-5MVQMKD4KVtHSCkbJML9PCLwZXGB/blk/I147902590_11/34NnP0Vdj8MejsQckALqnpPbOYWrSlI/svi/ ------------------------------------------ DID YOU KNOW that LinkedIn can find the answers to your most difficult questions? Post those vexing questions on LinkedIn Answers to tap into the knowledge of the world's foremost business experts: http://www.linkedin.com/e/5we255-gpfinyq9-3t/ask/inv-23/ -- (c) 2011, LinkedIn Corporation From wbeech at flash.net Mon Jun 27 08:26:45 2011 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2011 08:26:45 -0600 Subject: [TR] originality issues In-Reply-To: <4E074384.80502@gmail.com> References: <4E0723AA.8090807@gmail.com> <4E074384.80502@gmail.com> Message-ID: <1A524F92592A4A00BBFB7414E8C51ACF@bboffice> You're right, my bad. Apologies, Bill BTW, How did you crank it down 2" closer to the ground? What Tires/Wheels are you running. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TeriAnn J. Wakeman Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2011 8:35 AM To: Triumph List Subject: Re: [TR] originality issues On 6/26/11 6:57 AM, wbeech at flash.net wrote: > if I could afford a second TR3 I would be much like TeriAnn and try > to maintain a stock appearance with a nice late model drive train and > suspension. > Late model drive train & suspension?? My 3 still has its factory original engine block, and rear axle housing. By late model do you mean my TR4 gearbox? It is basically an original factory TR3A drive train and suspension with the addition of a TR4 gearbox and aftermarket parts. Since original parts have dried up, any rebuild or replacement of worn parts done these days is done with aftermarket parts. It is more a matter of choosing between stock like aftermarket parts or performance aftermarket parts. Can you even find factory 83mm pistons & liners any more? I would be more apt to have said "try to maintain a stock appearance with performance uprated drive train and suspension components. OK, I'll admit to a late model alternator. Is having an original crank shaft balanced, nitrided and journals cross drilled turning it into a late model crank? I always thought a "late model drive train" would be something like a Toyota gearbox swap into a TR body, not swapping in a TR4 gearbox into TR3. Maybe I'm wrong though. The gearbox is 3 or 4 years newer than the car. Teriann triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From spook01 at comcast.net Mon Jun 27 08:39:24 2011 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2011 09:39:24 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Camshaft_selections_-_TRactor_Engines?= Message-ID: <20110627143924.D31EC187918@autox.team.net> Remember these are non counterweighted cranks. They will rev to a max of 6500 with a fully prepped engine..a truly prepped engine. There is a guy who builds proper counterweighted knife edged cranks - I bought one for my MG TB a while back - but that's overkill for a street car. Another note: the rods on these cars stretch slightly at high rpm. Wavelock type rod bolts/studs should be used. If you are using the stock bolts be sure to use a mechanical device to prevent the bolt from moving, such as the little tabs. Lock tite will fail because heat generated will soften it....remember, you remove locktite with heat! Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" To: Subject: [TR] Camshaft selections - TRactor Engines Date: Mon, Jun 27, 2011 08:42 On 6/26/11 10:45 PM, Randall wrote: > However, even the stock camshaft should pull OK out beyond 5000 rpm. The > factory redline was not because the engine ran out of cam, but because they > weren't sure it would hold together for the entire warranty period if turned > faster than that. Which makes the standard cam good for for a stock engine and maybe a mild 260 cam might have a bit more pull approaching 5000 RPM. Bigger cams, like a 280 degree cam pulls strong into the 6000 RPM area but that is not an area where stock engines should be playing. if memory serves, the reason for the 5000 RPM red line is that there is a real nasty harmonic around 5200 - 5400 RPM that breaks the crank at the base of the flywheel mounting flange if you spend much time in the low 5000 RPM range. The whole purpose of the common harmonic dampener kit is to tame that harmonic. I don't remember exactly where it is but I believe the next major harmonic is in the low to mid 6000 RPM range and it tends to break cranks in the middle and beat up the middle main bearing. Spend much time in that range and it probably would not hurt to drop the pan and inspect main bearings every once and a while. That said, fully prepped race engines often run at 6500 with a nitrided stock crank. My TR3 has the harmonic dampener kit and a nitrided crank. I usually shift at 6000 RPM when I'm on it and the engine has held together well. I have a 280 degree cam that pulls strongly to about 6000 RPM and has a wide peak. But with a totally stock engine I would shift at 5000 RPM just because I worry about major harmonics. Getting back to cams, compression affects how well they work. If you have a TR4 head & 87mm pistons the 260 degree cam might be best. But if you have the TR3 head with less squish area you might see added benefit with a 280 degree cam and a harmonic dampener kit. You need to go to an electric pusher fan if you go to the harmonic dampener kit. There have been soft lifters offered for sale over the years. Either buy new lifters that have already been individually hardness tested or have them tested before installing. Each should be Rockwell hardness or 56 or above. And be sure to use an oil with adequate ZDDP. Teriann triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Mon Jun 27 08:57:00 2011 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2011 10:57:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 heater switch In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <002601cc34da$79331ed0$6b995c70$@net> Happen to have one sitting here (for my project) - looks like a replacement is in order. Sorry. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of davewillner Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2011 6:30 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR3 heater switch I went to take off my heater switch knob this morning to replace it and the entire shaft came along with it...is this repairable somehow, or do I need to search a replacement out? Thanks Dave Willner Stroudsburg PA 59 TR3A 70 MGB 70 BSA 441 VS triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net From trguy at cfl.rr.com Mon Jun 27 09:14:16 2011 From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen) Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2011 11:14:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] Chrome Plating In-Reply-To: <628552340.199998.1309183290218.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <628552340.199998.1309183290218.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <6611E6181154454992E2E2924F1858E0@TRGUY> Anyone have a good recommendation for a person who can chrome my TR4 valve cover? Fred Thomas always mentioned a shop in Richmond??, but I don't have any info. Thanks in advance! Jim Henningsen Maitland, FL 62 TR4 75 TR6 From tjwakeman at gmail.com Mon Jun 27 09:40:54 2011 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2011 08:40:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] Chrome Plating In-Reply-To: <6611E6181154454992E2E2924F1858E0@TRGUY> References: <628552340.199998.1309183290218.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <6611E6181154454992E2E2924F1858E0@TRGUY> Message-ID: <4E08A486.1060501@gmail.com> On 6/27/11 8:14 AM, James Henningsen wrote: > Anyone have a good recommendation for a person who can chrome my TR4 > valve cover? Fred Thomas always mentioned a shop in Richmond??, but I > don't have any info. I went to a local motorcycle shop that specialized in customizing Harleys. I figured if anyone had a good custom chrome shop on tap, they would. Check your yellow pages. Teriann From dctr6 at optonline.net Mon Jun 27 09:53:28 2011 From: dctr6 at optonline.net (Dennis Culligan) Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2011 11:53:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 classes (was Originality issues) Message-ID: <001201cc34e2$5ba958e0$12fc0aa0$@net> Jack wrote: >Can't argue with your logic at all - makes perfect sense - except, as a practical matter, it won't work. The late TR6 class is already way bigger than >early TR6 at every event - move the 73s to late and you'll have a 1 or 2 car early TR6 class and a late TR6 class so big nobody will want to spend their >whole day judging it. Good luck with that. Dave - I agree w/ Jack 100%. When you consider how few '74-'76 TR6s stayed in England it makes complete sense (number-wise) to put the '73s in the early class. I made this exact recommendation at a recent show I attended - there was 1 early TR6 and 8 late TR6s, including 2 '73s. Dennis Culligan, Highland NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U From ambritts at bellsouth.net Mon Jun 27 10:14:21 2011 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2011 12:14:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] Chrome Plating In-Reply-To: <6611E6181154454992E2E2924F1858E0@TRGUY> References: <628552340.199998.1309183290218.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <6611E6181154454992E2E2924F1858E0@TRGUY> Message-ID: <05186497EA574B7DBBCE221A4A762163@AlexPC> These people do some of the best work. They are also classic car collectors and restorers. Located in Harrisburg, PA http://www.carchrome.com/beta/librandi/about.htm Had all my my TR6 work done there. Great people, no financial interest unfortunately. :o) Alex Manzo Florida 59 TR3A 72 TR6 ----- Original Message ----- From: "James Henningsen" To: Sent: Monday, June 27, 2011 11:14 AM Subject: [TR] Chrome Plating > Anyone have a good recommendation for a person who can chrome my TR4 valve > cover? Fred Thomas always mentioned a shop in Richmond??, but I don't have > any info. > Thanks in advance! > Jim Henningsen > Maitland, FL > 62 TR4 > 75 TR6 From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Mon Jun 27 10:42:06 2011 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2011 09:42:06 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Chrome Plating In-Reply-To: <4E08A486.1060501@gmail.com> References: <628552340.199998.1309183290218.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <6611E6181154454992E2E2924F1858E0@TRGUY> <4E08A486.1060501@gmail.com> Message-ID: <691555.57488.qm@web120219.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Here in Los Angeles, i have been using Yolanda's plating. she is very fair on price, but a little disorganized. some times i have to go back twice to pick up parts. windshield stanchions for a TR3 where 25.00 each handbrake was about the same. pot metal crank guide was about 15.00 very happy with the quality and service. she is also single and looking to date as i recall. Frank ________________________________ From: TeriAnn J. Wakeman To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Mon, June 27, 2011 8:40:54 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Chrome Plating On 6/27/11 8:14 AM, James Henningsen wrote: > Anyone have a good recommendation for a person who can chrome my TR4 valve >cover? Fred Thomas always mentioned a shop in Richmond??, but I don't have any >info. I went to a local motorcycle shop that specialized in customizing Harleys. I figured if anyone had a good custom chrome shop on tap, they would. Check your yellow pages. Teriann triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From geomurphy at windstream.net Mon Jun 27 10:55:26 2011 From: geomurphy at windstream.net (George) Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2011 12:55:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] Electric Fuel pump tr3a Message-ID: <000001cc34eb$05b3cc50$111b64f0$@net> I am installing an electric fuel pump and would like to know just where is the best place to wire in the hotwire. My instructions say to wire it into the oil pressure switch. Now that that will not work since the oil pressure gauge is not electric then where would be the correct place to run my hot wire to? Thanks, George M. _______________________________________ No infections found in this outgoing message Scanned by iolo System Shield. http://www.iolo.com From spook01 at comcast.net Mon Jun 27 11:23:00 2011 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2011 12:23:00 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Chrome_Plating?= Message-ID: <20110627172259.42F171878EE@autox.team.net> Maybe that's why she had you dropping by all the time! ;-) Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Frank Fisher" To: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" Cc: Subject: [TR] Chrome Plating Date: Mon, Jun 27, 2011 11:42 Here in Los Angeles, i have been using Yolanda's plating. she is very fair on price, but a little disorganized. some times i have to go back twice to pick up parts. windshield stanchions for a TR3 where 25.00 each handbrake was about the same. pot metal crank guide was about 15.00 very happy with the quality and service. she is also single and looking to date as i recall. Frank ________________________________ From: TeriAnn J. Wakeman To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Mon, June 27, 2011 8:40:54 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Chrome Plating On 6/27/11 8:14 AM, James Henningsen wrote: > Anyone have a good recommendation for a person who can chrome my TR4 valve >cover? Fred Thomas always mentioned a shop in Richmond??, but I don't have any >info. I went to a local motorcycle shop that specialized in customizing Harleys. I figured if anyone had a good custom chrome shop on tap, they would. Check your yellow pages. Teriann triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jun 27 11:37:46 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2011 10:37:46 -0700 Subject: [TR] Electric Fuel pump tr3a In-Reply-To: <000001cc34eb$05b3cc50$111b64f0$@net> References: <000001cc34eb$05b3cc50$111b64f0$@net> Message-ID: <003c01cc34f0$ed8bcfa0$0301a8c0@randall> The idea is that it is safer to have some device to stop the pump in case of an accident. Of course you also want it controlled by the ignition switch (so it doesn't run with the switch off), and IMO fused. Lots of cars (including Triumphs with an electric pump from the factory) use an inertia switch. Some use a device that senses whether the engine is turning (by monitoring the action of the points). Or, it's not that difficult to add an oil pressure switch to a TR3 (by drilling and tapping the filter head). A little quick poking about shows a modern inertia switch at AutoZone for $31, or the 3-prong oil pressure switch from TRF for $20. I didn't bother looking up the relay that monitors the points, but I know it was used on VW Rabbits with Bosch fuel injection (74 I think). -- Randall From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Jun 27 11:47:50 2011 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2011 13:47:50 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Electric Fuel pump tr3a Message-ID: <1f116.3b9c046f.3b3a1c46@cs.com> In a message dated 6/27/2011 12:09:20 PM Central Daylight Time, geomurphy at windstream.net writes: > I am installing an electric fuel pump and would like to know just where > is > the best place to wire in the hotwire. My instructions say to wire it > into > the oil pressure switch. Now that that will not work since the oil > pressure > gauge is not electric then where would be the correct place to run my hot > wire to? Thanks, George M. I'd wire it up to the white wire on the fuse block. I'd add an inline fuse with a 2 or 3 amp fuse (check the pump manufacturer's data on current draw and double it). If you want to be really fancy (actually, I highly recommend it) go to the local wrecking yard and get an impact switch off of any modern car and mount it somewhere and wire it so that it will shut off the pump in the event of an accident. Note the orientation of the switch in the original application and mount it the same way in your car. Dave From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Mon Jun 27 12:52:18 2011 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2011 14:52:18 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR2 stuck rings update - appears that AC Delco product works Message-ID: Continuing to sort out the TR2 and was reading with interest about ways to improve compression on an engine that's been sitting for a long time. I'd been squirting marvel mystery oil or engine oil - depending on what I had open in to the cylinders every 2 years or so and rotated the engine by hand to make sure things were coated. My Triumph club (TCOC) and I started it last year and it ran but poorly- we did a compression test and got: Compression in order 1234 -- pre test - 130, 130, 110, 80. Fast forward to today - I put more marvel mystery oil in it over the past year - and got essentially the same compression readings as last year. I tried some ATF and got some improvement 140, 140, 120, 90. There might have been some residual oil as the 140's seem quite high. I tried kerosene, pb baslter; areokroil and wasn't seeing any improvement. That was all cleared out of the oil when I pulled the oil pan last month (but maybe that's why the inside of the engine looked so good..) My friend in the Triumph club, Paul, said he'd tried a product ACDelco X66-P Carburetor Tune-up Conditioner on a T250 that had sat a while and it really did the trick.Wasn't sure if they even sold it anymore. Neither of us has any financial interest here. He called me the other day and said he dropped by a garage and they gave him a dusty can. It had a 1995 sticker on it but was full. I took compression readings again (cold) and got 135, 130, 110, 90 . I put 2.5 oz in each cylinder and let it soak a full day. I figured the cylinders with the good compression likely had gunk that could benefit from a cleaning, too. Paul said he waited 3 days but I'm impatient. I stuck a screwdriver in each plug hole and there was no liquid - so '26 hrs later, I put the plugs back in and gave it a spin - I probably should have changed the oil but didn't. I ran it up to temperature and did some 3000 rpm rev's from time to time to make sure I was burning what was left over. After about 30 mins I went out and made another test - warm - 135, 130, 120, 130. I decided that maybe I should check the valve adjustment and while doing so realized I was still running a hand ground rocker arm adjustment screw I'd made years ago. I pulled down the rocker arm assembly and replaced the parts from a unit I bought on Ebay a few years ago. -- From my old notes I was setting at .010 intake and exhaust -- this time I set intake at .011 and exhaust at .013. Another compression test - went 135 130 125 130. my manual says they should average out at 120 - so I think I'm doing well for an engine that has not had any major work for at least 40 years. I made my first run out of the neighborhood today - A run to the post office, grocery store and wine store. It ran well and idles much more smoothly. Since I had balanced the carbs with the lower compression - looks like I'm due to repeat those steps as well. Oil pressure at speed is 70 psi - is that too high? - at idle - 45 psi. Chris. From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Mon Jun 27 13:12:57 2011 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2011 15:12:57 -0400 Subject: [TR] Electric Fuel pump tr3a In-Reply-To: <1f116.3b9c046f.3b3a1c46@cs.com> References: <1f116.3b9c046f.3b3a1c46@cs.com> Message-ID: On Mon, Jun 27, 2011 at 1:47 PM, wrote: > > I'd wire it up to the white wire on the fuse block. I'd add an inline fuse > with a 2 or 3 amp fuse (check the pump manufacturer's data on current draw > and double it). If you want to be really fancy (actually, I highly > recommend it) go to the local wrecking yard and get an impact switch off of any > modern car and mount it somewhere and wire it so that it will shut off the pump > in the event of an accident. Note the orientation of the switch in the > original application and mount it the same way in your car. That's exactly what I did - I got the inertia switch from a Taurus or sable - they are in the left side of the trunk behind the cardboard liner. I took a pair of side cutters and a pair of pliers. Cut as much of the harness as you can get to - you'll be glad to have the connector and the wires. I mounted my Facet pump to the blanking plate where the mechanical fuel pump was - the spacing is nearly identical to the facet pump. I used some rubber exhaust mounts (look just like vibration isolation mounts) as I figured they'd handle the heat from the engine - mcmaster carr has some higher temp ones as well. Since that location is quite low with respect to the bottom of the fuel tank - it works quite well - I've run over 2500 miles with this setup - on highway and mountain inclines. Chris From tfansher at comcast.net Mon Jun 27 13:35:20 2011 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2011 15:35:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] Chrome Plating References: <628552340.199998.1309183290218.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <6611E6181154454992E2E2924F1858E0@TRGUY> Message-ID: <177F25B765374C10AAAC34EFD61F63AD@DCS78M81> Jim, Space Coast Plating in Melbourne, Fl at http://spacecoast-plating.com/ is who I used. They are great and local for you. They do Jere Dotten's stuff, too. When they do it tell them that the tube for the breather cap can't be any larger, then they don't nickel plate that before the new chrome. Otherwise, the breather cap won't fit and you'll have to grind it down. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "James Henningsen" To: Sent: Monday, June 27, 2011 11:14 AM Subject: [TR] Chrome Plating > Anyone have a good recommendation for a person who can chrome my TR4 valve > cover? Fred Thomas always mentioned a shop in Richmond??, but I don't have > any info. > Thanks in advance! > Jim Henningsen > Maitland, FL > 62 TR4 > 75 TR6 From TR250Driver at aol.com Mon Jun 27 13:39:17 2011 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2011 15:39:17 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 classes (was Originality issues) Message-ID: <25905.5bb5c144.3b3a3665@aol.com> Dennis, Dave & Jack, The best thing would be to get a bunch of TR6's to come to VTR's NATC, show in Concours or P/C then we could have 3 classes: Early Middle Late We actually did this in the Glory years. Last time I remember we did this in Concours was in Boulder, CO in the early 90's. Now I am dating myself really bad, Huh? I believe we have done this recently in P/C but I have CRS now. The key is to get those cars pre-registered so we know what's coming to make a decision. How would we split them up if there were 3 classes? Darrell In a message dated 6/27/2011 12:11:10 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, dctr6 at optonline.net writes: Dave - I agree w/ Jack 100%. When you consider how few '74-'76 TR6s stayed in England it makes complete sense (number-wise) to put the '73s in the early class. I made this exact recommendation at a recent show I attended - there was 1 early TR6 and 8 late TR6s, including 2 '73s. Dennis Culligan, Highland NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U From trguy at cfl.rr.com Mon Jun 27 13:52:09 2011 From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen) Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2011 15:52:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] Chrome Plating In-Reply-To: <177F25B765374C10AAAC34EFD61F63AD@DCS78M81> References: <628552340.199998.1309183290218.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <6611E6181154454992E2E2924F1858E0@TRGUY> <177F25B765374C10AAAC34EFD61F63AD@DCS78M81> Message-ID: Thanks for the local shop info and thank you to everyone who replied. Jim Henningsen ----- Original Message ----- From: "THOMAS FANSHER" To: "James Henningsen" ; Sent: Monday, June 27, 2011 3:35 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Chrome Plating > Jim, Space Coast Plating in Melbourne, Fl at > http://spacecoast-plating.com/ is who I used. They are great and local > for you. They do Jere Dotten's stuff, too. When they do it tell them that > the tube for the breather cap can't be any larger, then they don't nickel > plate that before the new chrome. Otherwise, the breather cap won't fit > and you'll have to grind it down. > Tom > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "James Henningsen" > To: > Sent: Monday, June 27, 2011 11:14 AM > Subject: [TR] Chrome Plating > > >> Anyone have a good recommendation for a person who can chrome my TR4 >> valve cover? Fred Thomas always mentioned a shop in Richmond??, but I >> don't have any info. >> Thanks in advance! >> Jim Henningsen >> Maitland, FL >> 62 TR4 >> 75 TR6 From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Jun 27 14:11:13 2011 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2011 16:11:13 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 classes (was Originality issues) Message-ID: <40d68.37e564a8.3b3a3de1@cs.com> In a message dated 6/27/2011 2:39:18 PM Central Daylight Time, TR250Driver at aol.com writes: > Dennis, Dave &Jack, > The best thing would be to get a bunch of TR6's to come to VTR's NATC, > show in Concours or P/C then we could have 3 classes: > Early > Middle > Late > We actually did this in the Glory years. Last time I remember we did > this in Concours was in Boulder, CO in the early 90's. Now I am dating myself > really bad, Huh? I believe we have done this recently in P/C but I have > CRS now. The key is to get those cars pre-registered so we know what's coming > to make a decision. > How would we split them up if there were 3 classes? > Darrell > > I remember Boulder. My first VTR. I'll be bringing my TR6 this year since it is the only one running at the moment. This is the same TR6 I took to Boulder, BTW. I'll register my TR6 RealSoonNow. Dave From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Mon Jun 27 15:04:28 2011 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2011 14:04:28 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR2 stuck rings update - appears that AC Delco product works In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <565715.31016.qm@web120216.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> so what kind of wine did you buy ;-) ________________________________ From: Chris Simo To: list Triumph Sent: Mon, June 27, 2011 11:52:18 AM Subject: [TR] TR2 stuck rings update - appears that AC Delco product works Continuing to sort out the TR2 and was reading with interest about ways to improve compression on an engine that's been sitting for a long time. I'd been squirting marvel mystery oil or engine oil - depending on what I had open in to the cylinders every 2 years or so and rotated the engine by hand to make sure things were coated. My Triumph club (TCOC) and I started it last year and it ran but poorly- we did a compression test and got: Compression in order 1234 -- pre test - 130, 130, 110, 80. Fast forward to today - I put more marvel mystery oil in it over the past year - and got essentially the same compression readings as last year. I tried some ATF and got some improvement 140, 140, 120, 90. There might have been some residual oil as the 140's seem quite high. I tried kerosene, pb baslter; areokroil and wasn't seeing any improvement. That was all cleared out of the oil when I pulled the oil pan last month (but maybe that's why the inside of the engine looked so good..) My friend in the Triumph club, Paul, said he'd tried a product ACDelco X66-P Carburetor Tune-up Conditioner on a T250 that had sat a while and it really did the trick.Wasn't sure if they even sold it anymore. Neither of us has any financial interest here. He called me the other day and said he dropped by a garage and they gave him a dusty can. It had a 1995 sticker on it but was full. I took compression readings again (cold) and got 135, 130, 110, 90 . I put 2.5 oz in each cylinder and let it soak a full day. I figured the cylinders with the good compression likely had gunk that could benefit from a cleaning, too. Paul said he waited 3 days but I'm impatient. I stuck a screwdriver in each plug hole and there was no liquid - so '26 hrs later, I put the plugs back in and gave it a spin - I probably should have changed the oil but didn't. I ran it up to temperature and did some 3000 rpm rev's from time to time to make sure I was burning what was left over. After about 30 mins I went out and made another test - warm - 135, 130, 120, 130. I decided that maybe I should check the valve adjustment and while doing so realized I was still running a hand ground rocker arm adjustment screw I'd made years ago. I pulled down the rocker arm assembly and replaced the parts from a unit I bought on Ebay a few years ago. -- From my old notes I was setting at .010 intake and exhaust -- this time I set intake at .011 and exhaust at .013. Another compression test - went 135 130 125 130. my manual says they should average out at 120 - so I think I'm doing well for an engine that has not had any major work for at least 40 years. I made my first run out of the neighborhood today - A run to the post office, grocery store and wine store. It ran well and idles much more smoothly. Since I had balanced the carbs with the lower compression - looks like I'm due to repeat those steps as well. Oil pressure at speed is 70 psi - is that too high? - at idle - 45 psi. Chris. triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jun 27 15:10:37 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2011 14:10:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR2 stuck rings update - appears that AC Delco product works In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <04bb01cc350e$ad52f0d0$07f8d270$@rr.com> > Oil pressure at speed is 70 psi - is that too high? - at idle - 45 psi. Nope, that's just perfect. Congratulations on getting it running! BTW, the 'correct' setting for the valves depends on whether you have aluminum or cast iron rocker shaft pedestals. I believe a TR2 would have originally had the cast iron pedestals, but they were a factory-approved retrofit to the earlier engines so there is some chance they have been changed. -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jun 27 15:17:34 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2011 14:17:34 -0700 Subject: [TR] Camshaft selections - TRactor Engines In-Reply-To: <20110627143924.D31EC187918@autox.team.net> References: <20110627143924.D31EC187918@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <04bc01cc350f$a5d2a9d0$f177fd70$@rr.com> > Remember these are non counterweighted cranks. I disagree. They've got great big counterweights, as befits a TRactor motor. And Loctite comes in formulas that will withstand up to 650F continuously. If your rods are getting that hot, the problem will be putting out the fire, not worrying about the rod bolts coming loose. -- Randall From pethier at comcast.net Mon Jun 27 15:25:49 2011 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2011 21:25:49 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR2 stuck rings update - appears that AC Delco product works In-Reply-To: <565715.31016.qm@web120216.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <627062869.227416.1309209949275.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Change that oil now. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://www.mnautox.com From terryrs at comcast.net Mon Jun 27 15:54:09 2011 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2011 21:54:09 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Camshaft selections - TRactor Engines In-Reply-To: <005301cc348d$690f1150$0301a8c0@randall> Message-ID: <1676616462.92378.1309211649854.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Not strictly on topic for the thread, I'm just curious. I use Mahle pistons and liners...87's I think. I not only keep up with highway traffic, I tend to pass most of it at 3700 to 4 grand RPMs. So question, do you already have Overdrive? That was the best speed asset I ever came up with. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire where so far, knock on wood, the blue streak is only antique and the blue lights don't shine bright. I wonder my car was red, I'd get stopped? From terryrs at comcast.net Mon Jun 27 16:02:58 2011 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2011 22:02:58 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Electric Fuel pump tr3a In-Reply-To: <000001cc34eb$05b3cc50$111b64f0$@net> Message-ID: <922908479.92732.1309212178228.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> >I am installing an electric fuel pump and would like to know just where is >the best place to wire in the hotwire. George, others have responded better than I could about how to wire. However, I would add that now's a pretty good time to add in a cheap anti-theft device: an electrical switch that will turn off your electric fuel pump if you feel you're parking someplace sketchy...like, say, some local political headquarters. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A TS 58667 New Hampshire From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jun 27 17:37:22 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2011 16:37:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] Camshaft selections - TRactor Engines In-Reply-To: <1676616462.92378.1309211649854.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <005301cc348d$690f1150$0301a8c0@randall> <1676616462.92378.1309211649854.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <04cd01cc3523$2a137ef0$7e3a7cd0$@rr.com> > I not only keep up with highway > traffic, I tend to pass most of it at 3700 to 4 grand RPMs. So > question, do you already have Overdrive? That was the best speed asset > I ever came up with. Hmm. With overdrive, stock diameter tires and a 3.7 diff, 4000 rpm comes to 97 mph. I guess you do pass most of the traffic! -- Randall From terryrs at comcast.net Mon Jun 27 17:56:55 2011 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2011 23:56:55 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Camshaft selections - TRactor Engines In-Reply-To: <04cd01cc3523$2a137ef0$7e3a7cd0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <1467790634.97403.1309219015089.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> >Hmm. With overdrive, stock diameter tires and a 3.7 diff, 4000 rpm comes to >97 mph. I guess you do pass most of the traffic! OMG! I thought the speedometer was wrong!!!!! From elliottr at rmi.net Mon Jun 27 19:29:50 2011 From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott) Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2011 20:29:50 -0500 Subject: [TR] Satin Black Powder coat In-Reply-To: References: <3a5cf.7c95b718.3b39d95c@cs.com> Message-ID: <4E092E8E.5020901@rmi.net> Hi Everyone, I knew as I as describing it, that I was not being very clear. Trouble was I couldn't figure out how to describe it. But as Don is describing it, it is at the "macro" level. I can feel the difference. I suppose it is about the same as the difference between glossy magazine cover and a brown paper bag. Maybe not quite that much. It sounds like it is probably something to do with the way I apply it. I am going to email Eastwood and ask them. What have people found most appropriate for under the bonnet black items when powder coating? Thanks, Roger Elliott On 6/27/2011 9:06 AM, Don Hiscock wrote: > Seems to me the comments about surface texture area a matter of degree. > Gloss is a "micro" optical property. Roughness is a "macro" surface > property. Normal flatting agents in paints and coatings are designed to > disrupt the surface on the micro level to cut gloss without making a big > difference in macro roughness. > > > Don > TR3B TSF202L From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com Mon Jun 27 20:59:01 2011 From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly) Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2011 19:59:01 -0700 Subject: [TR] Camshaft selections - TRactor Engines In-Reply-To: <04cd01cc3523$2a137ef0$7e3a7cd0$@rr.com> References: <005301cc348d$690f1150$0301a8c0@randall> <1676616462.92378.1309211649854.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <04cd01cc3523$2a137ef0$7e3a7cd0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <000801cc353f$5564e870$002eb950$@rr.com> Yes, I have HVDA 5 speed, Goodparts 3.71 rear, 72 spoke wires treading 205-65's and powered by 87 MM pistons. The grunt in 5th gear at 70 MPH is minimal and needs improved. This is the same engine that has too much blow-by and is being yanked out this weekend (for that and other reasons). Can't think of a better thing to do on a 3 day weekend. Anybody want to help? Johnnie > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs- > bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall > Sent: Monday, June 27, 2011 4:37 PM > To: terryrs at comcast.net > Cc: 'Triumph' > Subject: Re: [TR] Camshaft selections - TRactor Engines > > > I not only keep up with highway > > traffic, I tend to pass most of it at 3700 to 4 grand RPMs. So > > question, do you already have Overdrive? That was the best speed > asset > > I ever came up with. > > Hmm. With overdrive, stock diameter tires and a 3.7 diff, 4000 rpm > comes to > 97 mph. I guess you do pass most of the traffic! > > > > -- Randall > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/pdonnel1 at san.rr.com From spook01 at comcast.net Tue Jun 28 00:36:24 2011 From: spook01 at comcast.net (=?utf-8?B?c3Bvb2swMUBjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA==?=) Date: Tue, 28 Jun 2011 01:36:24 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Camshaft_selections_-_TRactor_Engines?= Message-ID: <20110628063624.0052918764A@autox.team.net> Well, randall, if you think these are true counterweighted cranks, you may wish to take a look at a Chevy crank. These 4 cylinder tr cranks are what they are, well made tractor engine parts designed for fairly low rpm. Almost bent wire. And certainly not fully counterweighted. Loctite makes some specialized locking formulations, most of which have limited availability. The normal old Loctite, blue or red, begins to release at high normal interior engine temps. So why take a chance? Most folks use the old mechanical locks easily and successfully. If an upgrade is needed, the wavy bolts or studs work great without trying to re invent the wheel. Sheesh. Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone ----- Reply message ----- From: "Randall" To: Subject: [TR] Camshaft selections - TRactor Engines Date: Mon, Jun 27, 2011 16:17 > Remember these are non counterweighted cranks. I disagree. They've got great big counterweights, as befits a TRactor motor. And Loctite comes in formulas that will withstand up to 650F continuously. If your rods are getting that hot, the problem will be putting out the fire, not worrying about the rod bolts coming loose. -- Randall triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jun 28 00:49:20 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 27 Jun 2011 23:49:20 -0700 Subject: [TR] Camshaft selections - TRactor Engines In-Reply-To: <000801cc353f$5564e870$002eb950$@rr.com> References: <005301cc348d$690f1150$0301a8c0@randall> <1676616462.92378.1309211649854.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <04cd01cc3523$2a137ef0$7e3a7cd0$@rr.com> <000801cc353f$5564e870$002eb950$@rr.com> Message-ID: <014401cc355f$825f2320$0301a8c0@randall> > The grunt in 5th gear > at 70 MPH is > minimal and needs improved. So your problem is not lack of performance at high rpm at all. That's less than 3000 rpm, not even to the torque peak with the factory cam. A wilder camshaft isn't likely to improve much on power/torque at such low rpm. And now you know why the original OD is so nice. At 70 mph, you just flip the switch and hey, presto you're in passing gear. Or drop a shift into 3rd OD and you're right at the power peak (with the stock engine). -- Randall From TR3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jun 28 01:19:47 2011 From: TR3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 28 Jun 2011 00:19:47 -0700 Subject: [TR] Camshaft selections - TRactor Engines In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <014e01cc3563$c3678e80$0301a8c0@randall> > Well, randall, if you think these are true counterweighted > cranks, you may wish to take a look at a Chevy crank. Well, I'm always willing to be edumacated. You mean something like this? http://tinyurl.com/4yuvfpn (A GM Quad 4 crank on eBay) It's got more main bearings (of course), but I see the same number of counterweights. The funky shape no doubt reduces weight a bit, but only a bit. The point of counterweights is to balance the crankshaft, and the original cranks are reasonably close to balanced from the factory. From what I've seen, usually the counterweights can be lightened a bit to bring them closer. > The normal old Loctite, Well, you're right, I wouldn't use "normal old Loctite" (whatever that means, Loctite had dozens of formulas even before they started coming in colors). Kind of like using baling wire instead of safety wire and then saying you shouldn't use safety wire because the baling wire will break. > Most folks use the old mechanical locks easily and > successfully. I guess I'm not most folks then. Even Kas Kastner & uncle jack said to lose the mechanical lock tabs. And after I picked a piece of one out of the (locked up) oil pump, I definitely agree with them. Sheesh yourself. -- Randall From JGILLIS at tcd.ie Tue Jun 28 04:58:00 2011 From: JGILLIS at tcd.ie (John Gillis) Date: Tue, 28 Jun 2011 11:58:00 +0100 Subject: [TR] Payen Message-ID: I am trying to locate a TR supplier of top end gasket sets who have Payen gaskets, so far not much success. Do any of the suppliers in the US have Payen sets off the shelf as their standard gasket? Regards John 1954 TR2 p.s this Sunday TS2 will be back home in Ireland and on display at a classic car show in Dublin, looking forward to seeing it up close! From yellowtr at adelphia.net Tue Jun 28 06:33:46 2011 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Tue, 28 Jun 2011 08:33:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] Payen In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <201106280833.47508.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Tuesday, June 28, 2011 06:58:00 am John Gillis wrote: > I am trying to locate a TR supplier of top end gasket sets who have Payen > gaskets, so far not much success. Do any of the suppliers in the US have > Payen sets off the shelf as their standard gasket? > Regards > John > 1954 TR2 > p.s this Sunday TS2 will be back home in Ireland and on display at a > classic car show in Dublin, looking forward to seeing it up close! > John, I don't know if this will help but Kai at Wishbone Classics was able to source the correct Payen gaskets for my 72 TR6. He is aware of some of the problems with the current offerings. Just search for Wishbone Classics. He is located in PA somewhere. Bob From fogbro1 at comcast.net Tue Jun 28 09:06:53 2011 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 28 Jun 2011 15:06:53 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3 overdrive for sale Message-ID: <1373660794.129915.1309273613043.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> List, I have a TR3 overdrive gearbox to sell. Please contact me off list if you're interested. Ed Woods From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jun 28 10:23:55 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 28 Jun 2011 09:23:55 -0700 Subject: [TR] Payen In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <011801cc35af$c803e870$580bb950$@rr.com> > I am trying to locate a TR supplier of top end gasket sets who have > Payen gaskets, My understanding is that Payen has quit making gaskets for the TR2-4 motor. You might be able to find some still on the shelf, though. -- Randall From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Tue Jun 28 11:11:31 2011 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Tue, 28 Jun 2011 13:11:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] Wiper/Panel Switch Placement TR3 Message-ID: <000801cc35b6$6e8239d0$4b86ad70$@net> 1961 TR3A What is the correct placement of the wiper & panel switches? TRA guidelines have Wiper/Panel (Top/middle); changed at TR3 to Panel/Wiper ISTR recall that it was later switched again to accommodate the rheostat Panel. Searched the archives but the emails I found were unclear as what was correct when I have a two-speed wiper switch that if placed in the top hole, the word wiper does not align correctly (off cw 45d). Panel rheostat is a tight fit in top hole. (FYI  both holes are =) Alternatives: 1) I can mount Panel rheostat in top hole and the wiper switch can be installed in the middle hole so that the switch is aligned correctly. 2) Mount Panel Switch in middle; Wiper on top and have a knob engraved with proper alignment. And the collective wisdom of the list is? Thanks Carl From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Tue Jun 28 11:23:23 2011 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Tue, 28 Jun 2011 13:23:23 -0400 Subject: [TR] FW: Wiper/Panel Switch Placement TR3 Message-ID: <000d01cc35b8$15e5ad50$41b107f0$@net> Resent - Darn RTF.... 1961 TR3A What is the correct placement of the wiper & panel switches? TRA guidelines have Wiper/Panel (Top/middle); changed at TR3 to Panel/Wiper ISTR recall that it was later switched again to accommodate the rheostat Panel. Searched the archives but the emails I found were unclear as what was correct when I have a two-speed wiper switch that if placed in the top hole, the word wiper does not align correctly (off cw 45d). Panel rheostat is a tight fit in top hole. (FYI  both holes are =) Alternatives: 1) I can mount Panel rheostat in top hole and the wiper switch can be installed in the middle hole so that the switch is aligned correctly. 2) Mount Panel Switch in middle; Wiper on top and have a knob engraved with proper alignment. And the collective wisdom of the list is? Thanks Carl From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Tue Jun 28 11:27:59 2011 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Tue, 28 Jun 2011 13:27:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] Switch Bezels - TR3 Message-ID: <001301cc35b8$bc721730$35564590$@net> There are two types of switch bezels. a) Wider/inverted half-V (sort of) b) Narrower/straight sides They are apparently interchangeable and I made the mistake of storing separate. Which belongs on the various switches (or should they all be the same) 1) Panel Rheostat 2) Wiper (2-speed; same size as Panel Rheostat) 3) Starter Button 4) Heater 5) Overdrive 6) Headlamp switch is slightly different size and has bezel similar to a) above. Thanks Carl From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Tue Jun 28 11:28:52 2011 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Tue, 28 Jun 2011 13:28:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] FW: Switch Bezels - TR3 Message-ID: <001801cc35b8$da3d0b30$8eb72190$@net> There are two types of switch bezels. a) Wider/inverted half-V (sort of) b) Narrower/straight sides They are apparently interchangeable and I made the mistake of storing separate. Which belongs on the various switches (or should they all be the same) 1) Panel Rheostat 2) Wiper (2-speed; same size as Panel Rheostat) 3) Starter Button 4) Heater 5) Overdrive 6) Headlamp switch is slightly different size and has bezel similar to a) above. Thanks Carl From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Tue Jun 28 11:48:24 2011 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Tue, 28 Jun 2011 13:48:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] sorry about that Message-ID: <002301cc35bb$94547060$bcfd5120$@net> Evidently the RTF format makes it to the list now. They didn't show up right away so I thought they bounced.. Last email from me for awhile. Back to the project. Carl From n197tr4 at cs.com Tue Jun 28 13:56:31 2011 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Tue, 28 Jun 2011 15:56:31 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] California Dream'n Kastner Cup 2011 and 2012 Message-ID: <8CE03E49C5088A2-2D38-1C532@webmail-m103.sysops.aol.com> Recent MAY/JUNE trip to Laguna and Buttonwillow brought me into contact: Bill Brewer and his side kick, Lou. That was a big treat. Craig Cowan....what an enthusiast! Frank Fisher....where were you? Teriann....almost made it. Randall stayed home, I think. Triumph Travelers and others joined us at Laguna. The Kastner Cup was a success... Next year will be at Road Atlanta... Once again the FOT and the VTR will provide a premium poster. ARTWORK has been started and will honor Kas Kastner at the 10th Running of the Kastner Cup. Classic Motorsports is also sponsoring the festivities for the 60th Anniversary of the the Sports Triumph Series...Remember the 40th and the 50th at Mid-Ohio? We are also working the return of the Brits and their lorry packed with fast TRs. End of April 2012 see you there...... Joe A. From don.hiscock at gmail.com Tue Jun 28 14:25:13 2011 From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Tue, 28 Jun 2011 15:25:13 -0500 Subject: [TR] 1958 Works Monte Carlo Rally TR3A Valve Cover Info? Message-ID: JD Classics in the UK is advertising for sale an apple green works TR3A (restored) reportedly prepared for the 1958 Rallye Monte Carlo. Here's a link: http://www.jdclassics.co.uk/car/407 I don't think I've seen this particular valve cover before. Anything the collective wisdom of the list could tell about it would be appreciated. And are the leather bonnet straps original equipment to the rally cars from this period? Don TR3B TSF202L From zoboherald at aol.com Tue Jun 28 17:40:09 2011 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace) Date: Tue, 28 Jun 2011 19:40:09 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] 1958 Works Monte Carlo Rally TR3A Valve Cover Info? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CE0403D9731343-C94-11D7@webmail-d172.sysops.aol.com> Don, I can't answer either question; all I can do is wonder what this car will sell for (and how "original" it is)? Having a "Works" rallye TR3 would be very cool, but it's a bit beyond my price range (unless I hit Megamillions tonight)! --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us -----Original Message----- From: Don Hiscock JD Classics in the UK is advertising for sale an apple green works TR3A (restored) reportedly prepared for the 1958 Rallye Monte Carlo. .... From pebarnes71 at gmail.com Tue Jun 28 19:29:22 2011 From: pebarnes71 at gmail.com (Philip Barnes) Date: Tue, 28 Jun 2011 21:29:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] 1958 Works Monte Carlo Rally TR3A Valve Cover Info? In-Reply-To: <8CE0403D9731343-C94-11D7@webmail-d172.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CE0403D9731343-C94-11D7@webmail-d172.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: >From what information is in "The Works Triumphs", VRW 221 has had quite a competition history, although it retired on its first outing on the Monte Carlo. Second O/A on the Circuit of Ireland, tenth O/A on the Tulip, eighth O/A on the Alpine, and a retirement on the Rome-Liege-Rome. If it's the real deal, it's probably "appropriately priced." Being an old-time rally guy, I'd love to have it. --Phil Barnes On Tue, Jun 28, 2011 at 7:40 PM, Andrew S. Mace wrote: > Don, I can't answer either question; all I can do is wonder what this car > will sell for (and how "original" it is)? Having a "Works" rallye TR3 would > be > very cool, but it's a bit beyond my price range (unless I hit Megamillions > tonight)! From Catpusher at aol.com Tue Jun 28 21:59:52 2011 From: Catpusher at aol.com (Catpusher at aol.com) Date: Tue, 28 Jun 2011 23:59:52 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 4, Issue 38 Message-ID: <84ef.528dac5b.3b3bfd38@aol.com> In a message dated 6/27/2011 7:24:36 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, triumphs-request at autox.team.net writes: FWIW, Larry offers either regrinds on stock cores, or new grinds on blanks he sources from the UK. On the regrinds, they have to cut into the shaft itself in the thicker section near the front. Haven't heard of anyone breaking one, but the factory supposedly added that thicker section because they saw excessive flex, so I opted for a new blank. I would also strongly recommend an overdrive. -- Randall From Catpusher at aol.com Tue Jun 28 22:18:03 2011 From: Catpusher at aol.com (Catpusher at aol.com) Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2011 00:18:03 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Camshaft selections - TR2-4A Engines Message-ID: <8a6d.3d93482c.3b3c017b@aol.com> The factory changed the front cam base diameter while developing the TR2 because of cam failures. I strongly suggest the use of blanks or billet cam blanks. A reduced regrind (not Larry's) cost us a yearly divisional SCCA title, and if the cam fails in two places, it will also fall down between the block and crank, which usually trashes the motor. Hardy FWIW, Larry offers either regrinds on stock cores, or new grinds on blanks he sources from the UK. On the regrinds, they have to cut into the shaft itself in the thicker section near the front. Haven't heard of anyone breaking one, but the factory supposedly added that thicker section because they saw excessive flex, so I opted for a new blank. I would also strongly recommend an overdrive. -- Randall From fogbro1 at comcast.net Wed Jun 29 05:40:41 2011 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2011 11:40:41 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Overdrive Message-ID: <1302058763.3677.1309347641060.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> List, The TR3 overdrive gearbox has been sold. Ed Woods From JGILLIS at tcd.ie Wed Jun 29 07:36:16 2011 From: JGILLIS at tcd.ie (John Gillis) Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2011 14:36:16 +0100 Subject: [TR] no payne no gain? Message-ID: So failing to locate a Payen head gasket, are there more easily obtainable choices, should I choose one of the self annealing solid copper or another make composite type, remembering all I require is a good seal, forgiving of 50 year old engine, that will be driven on sunny days (remember I am in Ireland, so seldom!) at a sedate pace. Regards John 1954 TR2 From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk Wed Jun 29 07:36:52 2011 From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2011 14:36:52 +0100 (BST) Subject: [TR] 1958 Works Monte Carlo Rally TR3A Valve Cover Info? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1309354612.63039.YahooMailNeo@web28308.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> I've forwarded Don's email to someone who will certainly know a lot about this car - for further comment. I'll advise the list as soon as I have an answer. In terms of price, I'd speculate that if the car really does have the claimed provenance, US$75,000 at least - and probably more. About six months ago, the original and it WAS the original factory TR2 Press Car (in superbly restored condition) came up for sale and was sold to an anonymous buyer for somewhere in the region of US$150k. Jonmac From: Don Hiscock To: Triumphs Sent: Tuesday, 28 June 2011, 21:25 Subject: [TR] 1958 Works Monte Carlo Rally TR3A Valve Cover Info? JD Classics in the UK is advertising for sale an apple green works TR3A (restored) reportedly prepared for the 1958 Rallye Monte Carlo. Here's a link: http://www.jdclassics.co.uk/car/407 I don't think I've seen this particular valve cover before. Anything the collective wisdom of the list could tell about it would be appreciated. And are the leather bonnet straps original equipment to the rally cars from this period? Don TR3B TSF202L triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk From TR250Driver at aol.com Wed Jun 29 08:10:54 2011 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2011 10:10:54 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Side of the Road Message-ID: <2e183.1974e157.3b3c8c6e@aol.com> Guys, Real quick, discovered the problem with the TR4 that led to the blocked fuel filter. The hose from the fuel tank to the filler cap is disintegrating and dropping little pieces of rubber into the tank. I can see a bunch of them at the bottom of the tank. Woe is me!. Darrell From geomurphy at windstream.net Wed Jun 29 08:34:13 2011 From: geomurphy at windstream.net (George) Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2011 10:34:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] tr3a tail light wiring Message-ID: <000001cc3669$9f2f1270$dd8d3750$@net> I have started to install all new tail light hardware on my tr3a. I find that each light fixture has a place to attach a bullet end ground wire. My new wiring harness does not have a ground wire for these lights and the wiring diagram I have does not show an actual wire going to a ground. I assume that all are grounded through the screws that attach the fixture to the body. The hardware that I removed did not have ground wires. The question is; Should I run a ground wire to each light? Why is there a place on the fixture to ground it if it was not supposed to be used? George Murphy 1960 TR3A - Waleska, Georgia _______________________________________ No infections found in this outgoing message Scanned by iolo System Shield. http://www.iolo.com From tony at tonydrews.com Wed Jun 29 10:24:46 2011 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2011 11:24:46 -0500 Subject: [TR] no payne no gain? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <20110629162504.D76F8187663@autox.team.net> I would go with a composite gasket instead of a solid copper one. Getting the head gasket to seal is much easier with the composite gasket. Tony Drews At 08:36 AM 6/29/2011, John Gillis wrote: >So failing to locate a Payen head gasket, are there more easily obtainable >choices, should I choose one of the self annealing solid copper or another >make composite type, remembering all I require is a good seal, forgiving of 50 >year old engine, that will be driven on sunny days (remember I am in Ireland, >so seldom!) at a sedate pace. >Regards >John >1954 TR2 > > >triumphs at autox.team.net > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com From zoboherald at aol.com Wed Jun 29 10:38:45 2011 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew S. Mace) Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2011 12:38:45 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] tr3a tail light wiring In-Reply-To: <000001cc3669$9f2f1270$dd8d3750$@net> References: <000001cc3669$9f2f1270$dd8d3750$@net> Message-ID: <8CE049225E62C57-1A94-14B1E@webmail-d004.sysops.aol.com> Extra ground wires can't hurt. But one reason why there is provision on those lamp units for a separate ground connection is that the L549 lamp was used on a wide variety of British cars in the 1950s and early 1960s as original equipment and for accessory/updated lighting as well. Some of the cars they were used on had fiberglass bodies, so the lamp unit wouldn't ground simply through a mounting screw to the body. Others had the lamp units mounted on plinths that, in turn, mounted to the car body, and the plinth alone might not provide sufficient ground (particularly if made of a pot metal or plastic/fiberglass). --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us -----Original Message----- From: George I have started to install all new tail light hardware on my tr3a. I find that each light fixture has a place to attach a bullet end ground wire. My new wiring harness does not have a ground wire for these lights and the wiring diagram I have does not show an actual wire going to a ground. I assume that all are grounded through the screws that attach the fixture to the body. The hardware that I removed did not have ground wires. The question is; Should I run a ground wire to each light? Why is there a place on the fixture to ground it if it was not supposed to be used? From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jun 29 10:52:22 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2011 09:52:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] tr3a tail light wiring In-Reply-To: <000001cc3669$9f2f1270$dd8d3750$@net> References: <000001cc3669$9f2f1270$dd8d3750$@net> Message-ID: <013501cc367c$eb292a90$c17b7fb0$@rr.com> IMO Yes, you should fabricate a ground harness. The factory did rely on the mounting screws and they are far from secure, especially since the screw only goes into a clip nut (rather than into the metal of the body). FWIW, my ground harness follows the main harness around the trunk, to a ring terminal under a gas tank mounting bolt. I also have a ground wire up to the fuel sender. -- Randall From dogzbody1 at yahoo.com Wed Jun 29 11:34:24 2011 From: dogzbody1 at yahoo.com (Steve Smith) Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2011 10:34:24 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] British Car Publication CDs In-Reply-To: References: <1309147809.v2.mailanyonewebmail-234588@fuseweb2d> Message-ID: <1309368864.73273.YahooMailRC@web114701.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Somehow it seems fitting that the country that brought us Lucas also bring us cds that won't run on common computer platforms. Steve ----- Original Message ---- From: Carl TR To: TR List Sent: Mon, June 27, 2011 7:56:09 AM Subject: [TR] British Car Publication CDs Thought the list would find this of interest. I am still ticked that the old version don't work - $80 down the tube (for 2 of them) - and evidently no interest in offering 'upgrade' pricing. Guess I'll go back to the old fashion way - the manuals or some form of bootleg electronic copies. Carl From: Info Greer [mailto:support at markgreer-associates.com] Sent: Monday, June 27, 2011 12:10 AM To: cfmtr3a at verizon.net Subject: Re: British Car Publication CDs Hi Carl, Yes that is true they were re-mastered over a year ago to DVD using new copy - protection. Sadly the previous versions on CD work only on 2000 and XP using Acrobat 6 or 7. Kind Regards, Support ----- Original Message ----- From: "Carl TR" Sent: Sat, June 25, 2011 7:56 Subject: British Car Publication CDs I understand that the publications have been updated so that they run on post-Windows XP systems. Is a there key or something that will make the old ones work on new machines. Thank you Carl triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/dogzbody1 at yahoo.com From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Wed Jun 29 11:44:56 2011 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2011 13:44:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] FW: Wiper/Panel Switch Placement TR3 In-Reply-To: <000d01cc35b8$15e5ad50$41b107f0$@net> References: <000d01cc35b8$15e5ad50$41b107f0$@net> Message-ID: <007301cc3684$455393f0$cffabbd0$@net> I went digging into the archives and actually found the answer: >From Randall in 2005... "As several have pointed out, the earlier cars have the panel light in the top position ... but the rheostat will not fit there. In fact, the metal panel itself is different between early and late TR3A, since the rheostat takes a bigger hole than the push/pull switch used for the wipers (and the panel on the earlier cars)." [Because of the rheostat - the wiper/panel were reversed with wiper on top.] So for my 2-speed wiper application I will get a blank knob engraved with the proper alignment. I did find that the rheostat would fit in the top position, but it is extremely close to the warning lamp bodies. Could be that it would generate enough heat to cause an issue. Thanks to those that responded. BTW - regarding the bezels... All bezels on the center console should be the beveled (inverted v) bezel which resembles those on the gauges - with the exception of the ignition switch. Switches mounted on the dash fascia (heater & overdrive) should have the straight type. Windshield Washer pump is a round knurled nut (NLA evidently and with a strange threading - might be a BA) Carl TS81802LO - getting close... it is all in the details LOL -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl TR Sent: Tuesday, June 28, 2011 1:23 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] FW: Wiper/Panel Switch Placement TR3 1961 TR3A What is the correct placement of the wiper & panel switches? From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jun 29 12:25:37 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2011 11:25:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] FW: Wiper/Panel Switch Placement TR3 In-Reply-To: <007301cc3684$455393f0$cffabbd0$@net> References: <000d01cc35b8$15e5ad50$41b107f0$@net> <007301cc3684$455393f0$cffabbd0$@net> Message-ID: <014b01cc3689$f2256c20$d6704460$@rr.com> > All bezels on the center console should be > the beveled (inverted v) bezel which resembles those on the gauges - > with the exception of the ignition switch. Carl, sorry I didn't get back to you sooner. I meant to check some things when I got home last night, but the TR didn't want to cooperate and I didn't get home until after midnight. Anyway, I see you got the answer about switch location. Unless it was different on the later cars, the bezel for the starter push button is unique as well. Similar to the one for the ignition switch, but smaller. I believe this one is original: http://tinyurl.com/3cg2cd7 -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jun 29 12:30:48 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2011 11:30:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] British Car Publication CDs In-Reply-To: <1309368864.73273.YahooMailRC@web114701.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <1309147809.v2.mailanyonewebmail-234588@fuseweb2d> <1309368864.73273.YahooMailRC@web114701.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <014c01cc368a$ab307c50$019174f0$@rr.com> > Somehow it seems fitting that the country that brought us Lucas also > bring us > cds that won't run on common computer platforms. Actually, the bit that doesn't work came from Israel. And as a computer programmer, I can appreciate that it's really tough to write code that is compatible with one buttock operating systems that don't exist yet. The real fault lies squarely in Redmond, for strong-arming the rest of the world into paying over and over without getting what they paid for in the first place: a real operating system. -- Randall From allenhess at mgcarclub.com Wed Jun 29 12:42:52 2011 From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess) Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2011 14:42:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] Side of the Road In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Do you know how old the hose is? An original or a sub-standard replacement? (presuming that many replacement parts are not as good as we would like them to be) Allen On Jun 29, 2011, at 12:52 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > Guys, > Real quick, discovered the problem with the TR4 that led to the > blocked > fuel filter. The hose from the fuel tank to the filler cap is > disintegrating > and dropping little pieces of rubber into the tank. I can see a > bunch of > them at the bottom of the tank. Woe is me!. > Darrell From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Wed Jun 29 13:09:11 2011 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2011 15:09:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] FW: Wiper/Panel Switch Placement TR3 In-Reply-To: <014b01cc3689$f2256c20$d6704460$@rr.com> References: <000d01cc35b8$15e5ad50$41b107f0$@net> <007301cc3684$455393f0$cffabbd0$@net> <014b01cc3689$f2256c20$d6704460$@rr.com> Message-ID: <007b01cc3690$08af04a0$1a0d0de0$@net> RE: starter bezel. I was basing my comments on a very grainy image in the TR3 Practical Hints... Looking closer at SPC Plate AD; it appears that you are correct. That does make my life easier as I now have sufficient beveled bezels. Note: that the image Randall provided is for an early push/pull panel switch. Thanks Carl -----Original Message----- From: Randall [mailto:tr3driver at ca.rr.com] Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2011 2:26 PM To: cfmtr3a at verizon.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [TR] FW: Wiper/Panel Switch Placement TR3 > All bezels on the center console should be > the beveled (inverted v) bezel which resembles those on the gauges - > with the exception of the ignition switch. Unless it was different on the later cars, the bezel for the starter push button is unique as well. Similar to the one for the ignition switch, but smaller. I believe this one is original: http://tinyurl.com/3cg2cd7 -- Randall From opposumking at verizon.net Wed Jun 29 13:14:52 2011 From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan) Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2011 15:14:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] British Car Publication CDs References: <1309147809.v2.mailanyonewebmail-234588@fuseweb2d> <1309368864.73273.YahooMailRC@web114701.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> <014c01cc368a$ab307c50$019174f0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <1C4CA327176D4FF8A79A3BFB3014337F@mde.state.md.us> One buttock operating systems. Great visual. I don't think I've ever heard an operating system described so well before. From Loumetelko at aol.com Wed Jun 29 14:56:01 2011 From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com) Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2011 16:56:01 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] 1958 Works Monte Carlo Rally TR3A Valve Cover Info? Message-ID: <10d738.51396bff.3b3ceb61@aol.com> About six months ago, the original and it WAS the original factory TR2 Press Car (in superbly restored condition) came up for sale and was sold to an anonymous buyer for somewhere in the region of US$150k. Jonmac I thought the original TR2 Press Car was OHP242 (aka TS14). Last I heard that TS14 was owned and being restored by John Saunders from around Gloucestershire in the UK. Lou Metelko Auburn, Indiana From agraham at execulink.com Wed Jun 29 17:47:57 2011 From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham) Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2011 19:47:57 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 control head installation. Message-ID: <4E0BB9AD.9050303@execulink.com> Hello List: Have moved back to try to deal with the installation of the control head. Got some new grub screws from TRF to help matters, but they are not as 'pointed' as the original TR versions. With the control head in place and following the manual instructions, can't seem to get the control head to stay put. The screws appear to be 'home', but the control head is still pretty easy to turn in the hub. Needless to say, it does not self-cancel. Not sure what I am doing wrong here (once again!!). Anyone been there? Should I look for pointed grub screws to really grab the back plate of the control head? Am I missing something in the installation procedure? Thanks for any help with this. Angelo Graham From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jun 29 18:45:15 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2011 17:45:15 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 control head installation. In-Reply-To: <4E0BB9AD.9050303@execulink.com> References: <4E0BB9AD.9050303@execulink.com> Message-ID: <021001cc36be$fbb8cc20$f32a6460$@rr.com> Might be worth trying a trial assembly of the backplate into the steering wheel without it screwed to the control head. That way, you could see why the grub screws aren't grabbing it. -- Randall From levilevi at comcast.net Wed Jun 29 23:09:34 2011 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2011 23:09:34 -0600 Subject: [TR] VTR Autocross Team Event? Message-ID: <1DADB7BD-6B89-48DB-898C-87D2FEBFBD68@comcast.net> Yes that's right a TEAM Autocross Event. At this point it's just a wild idea but I'd like to test the waters here on the list to see if there would be any interest in driving a car around the cones that has left side steering but right side pedals. This car is a 2002 350 Z 6 speed that has been altered to the prior mentioned configuration. I haven't seen it yet but that's the gist of it. Why in God's name would anyone take a real nice sports car and make it so that two people are required to drive it you might rightfully ask? Well here's the answer. The goal is to get onto Top Gear and have celebrity teams use this car for a race. Yup that's it. A celebrity auto stunt two-person race. Apparently there's millions to be made....not apparent to me but WTH. So knowing the young neighbor that created this concept (I actually powder coated some parts for him...Thx FT), I thought this might be a fun event to try after the VTR autocross in Breckenridge this year. Hopefully we could have teams take some timed runs after the official autocross and see whose team can two-person drive through the cones the fastest. This could be your chance to get in on the next big thing...or not. Any Teams that want to sign up? I certain you'll have to sign your life away on a disclaimer, etc.. What better way to cement a friendship/marrige than trying to both drive a car at the same time? This would not be an official event and nothing but bragging rights will be awarded. I've been invited to do a test ride so I'll let you know how that goes. Let me know if there's any interest and I'll see what I can do. Thanks Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net From levilevi at comcast.net Wed Jun 29 23:14:32 2011 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2011 23:14:32 -0600 Subject: [TR] VTR Autocross Team Event? Message-ID: <7F028B77-2D60-49B7-8287-FF6DF9DD2ACC@comcast.net> Yes that's right a TEAM Autocross Event. At this point it's just a wild idea but I'd like to test the waters here on the list to see if there would be any interest in driving a car around the cones that has left side steering but right side pedals. This car is a 2002 350 Z 6 speed that has been altered to the prior mentioned configuration. I haven't seen it yet but that's the gist of it. Why in God's name would anyone take a real nice sports car and make it so that two people are required to drive it you might rightfully ask? Well here's the answer. The goal is to get onto Top Gear and have celebrity teams use this car for a race. Yup that's it. A celebrity auto stunt two-person race. Apparently there's millions to be made....not apparent to me but WTH. So knowing the young neighbor that created this concept (I actually powder coated some parts for him...Thx FT), I thought this might be a fun event to try after the VTR autocross in Breckenridge this year. Hopefully we could have teams take some timed runs after the official autocross and see whose team can two-person drive through the cones the fastest. This could be your chance to get in on the next big thing...or not. Any Teams that want to sign up? I certain you'll have to sign your life away on a disclaimer, etc.. What better way to cement a friendship/marrige than trying to both drive a car at the same time? This would not be an official event and nothing but bragging rights will be awarded. I've been invited to do a test ride so I'll let you know how that goes. Let me know if there's any interest and I'll see what I can do. Thanks Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com Thu Jun 30 06:42:29 2011 From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer) Date: Thu, 30 Jun 2011 05:42:29 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] interior insulation - TR3 Message-ID: <1309437749.33615.YahooMailRC@web39420.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2011 Subject: Re: [TR] interior insulation - TR3 > ...I probably only need a 25' roll but for only $20 more... why not - could > double up some of the worse areas (firewall; tranny cover, over exhaust > system) > -Carl ---------- ------------------- ----------- Hi Carl & List! As you can see, I'm back into 'catch-up' mode of reading my back log of TR Digests. Carl, I can understand where you are coming from on 'double up some of the worse areas', BUT remember that inside the engine bay, you have to have freedom of air to move about, also as a 'cooling' factor. I'm wondering if that's MY PROBLEM of getting 'vapor lock' when on long drives in 90^ temperatures, because of the Fan Shroud that I fabricated to have better than 90% of the outside air forced through the radiator & not escaping around it. Thus restricting 'air flow' to the rest of the engine bay? -Cosmo Kramer From wbeech at flash.net Thu Jun 30 07:05:32 2011 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Thu, 30 Jun 2011 13:05:32 -0000 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 control head installation. In-Reply-To: <4E0BB9AD.9050303@execulink.com> References: <4E0BB9AD.9050303@execulink.com> Message-ID: Angelo, Is the olive and locking nut tight at the other end? Mine moves around until everything is tight at both ends, but then again, maybe I have done something wrong too. BTW, are the one-piece steering shaft control heads supposed to self-cancel? Mine never has and I have always thought it just wasn't a feature then. Bill TS-30766 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Angelo Graham Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2011 5:48 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR2/3 control head installation. Hello List: Have moved back to try to deal with the installation of the control head. Got some new grub screws from TRF to help matters, but they are not as 'pointed' as the original TR versions. With the control head in place and following the manual instructions, can't seem to get the control head to stay put. The screws appear to be 'home', but the control head is still pretty easy to turn in the hub. Needless to say, it does not self-cancel. Not sure what I am doing wrong here (once again!!). Anyone been there? Should I look for pointed grub screws to really grab the back plate of the control head? Am I missing something in the installation procedure? Thanks for any help with this. Angelo Graham triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Thu Jun 30 08:25:20 2011 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Thu, 30 Jun 2011 10:25:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] interior insulation - TR3 In-Reply-To: <1309437749.33615.YahooMailRC@web39420.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <1309437749.33615.YahooMailRC@web39420.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Welcome back! First - the insulation is for inside the cockpit; not in the engine compartment. I live in Florida and if I can't get the ambient temp of the cockpit within reason - my wife will never ride in the TR.... and it will be less enjoyable for me. Radiator shrouds (you don't mention which car) are designed to force air through the radiator - cooling the water - cooling the internal engine. The fan is designed to aid in pulling that air through the radiator (when the car is in motion). If the ambient air temperature is 90^ or better - it has less effect on cooling the water. The electric fans help by generating air flow when the car is not in motion. There are only two places for the air to escape the engine compartment (on a TR3 but similar for other cars) -through the vent slots at the top rear edge of the bonnet/hood or under the car (through the transmission tunnel). Since the top escape is limited - most of the heat is directed down and back - against the firewall and through the tunnel. That creates the large amount of heat in the cockpit area. It is aggravated by the placement of the exhaust system(first muffler) under the passenger side. Hence the desire to insulate the cockpit. R15(x2) on the firewall; floor; tranny tunnel; R15 elsewhere. Also it will provide some relief from road noise (when the curtains/hood are installed) It is my understanding that some racers install a deflector at the bottom of the radiator which helps create a negative pressure behind the radiator and below the front of the engine. This helps pull the hot air (after the radiator) down and below the car rather than into the firewall and then down into the tunnel. I have installed a 1 1/2" deflector in the front cross member below the radiator (it also protects the alloy sump). We'll see if it helps. As to vapor lock... Do you have a heat shield between the manifold and carbs? Again - the hot air generated by the manifold has to go somewhere... the shield deflects it to the rear of the carbs so that it can then flow up (or down) and out of the engine compartment. Carl -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Cosmo Kramer Sent: Thursday, June 30, 2011 8:42 AM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] interior insulation - TR3 Hi Carl & List! As you can see, I'm back into 'catch-up' mode of reading my back log of TR Digests. Carl, I can understand where you are coming from on 'double up some of the worse areas', BUT remember that inside the engine bay, you have to have freedom of air to move about, also as a 'cooling' factor. I'm wondering if that's MY PROBLEM of getting 'vapor lock' when on long drives in 90^ temperatures, because of the Fan Shroud that I fabricated to have better than 90% of the outside air forced through the radiator & not escaping around it. Thus restricting 'air flow' to the rest of the engine bay? -Cosmo Kramer triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/cfmtr3a at verizon.net From fogbro1 at comcast.net Thu Jun 30 08:45:02 2011 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 30 Jun 2011 14:45:02 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] needle bearing extractor Message-ID: <1099149253.69233.1309445102875.JavaMail.root@sz0058a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> List, B Has anyone found a tool that extracts the TR4-TR6 laygear bearings successfully? Horrible Freight offers one, but I'm wondering if there is room behind the bearing for it to get a grip. B I've been using a Dremel to grind out the old bearing shells, but it's tedious work. I'd like to find a way to pluck them out quickly. B Ed Woods From mmarr at notwires.com Thu Jun 30 08:48:56 2011 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Thu, 30 Jun 2011 10:48:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] British Car Publication CDs References: <1309147809.v2.mailanyonewebmail-234588@fuseweb2d><1309368864.73273.YahooMailRC@web114701.mail.gq1.yahoo.com><014c01cc368a$ab307c50$019174f0$@rr.com> <1C4CA327176D4FF8A79A3BFB3014337F@mde.state.md.us> Message-ID: > One buttock operating systems. > > Great visual. I don't think I've ever heard an operating system described > so well before. > Reminds me of the sign I once saw in a bar: I am not a slow bartender; I am not a fast bartender; I am a half-fast bartender. Mike From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk Thu Jun 30 09:21:57 2011 From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney) Date: Thu, 30 Jun 2011 16:21:57 +0100 (BST) Subject: [TR] 1958 Works Monte Carlo Rally TR3A Valve Cover Info? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1309447317.36079.YahooMailNeo@web28307.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Following up on Don Hiscock's query of 28th June about the 1958 TR3A 'Works' Rally car. I've had a lengthy phone conversation today with my chum Paul Richardson (son of Ken) has an extensive photo library of all the works cars his Dad either drove or master-minded in their preparation. He's checked all his pix on the car in question and has said: 1. At no time during the cars rally life with S-T did it have bonnet straps. Cars used at Le Mans in racing guise were strapped but not the rally cars. 2. The rocker cover is a later addition. Richardson (Ken) was always anxious to keep weight to a minimum and the shape of the current cover with its flip oil filler would have almost certainly been heavier than the normal steel pressing, so no advantage there. Paul may see if he can do an article on this car for The Vintage Triumph but it depends on his time, the car's availability and the distance from his home. Hope this helps? Jonmac From N197TR4 at cs.com Thu Jun 30 09:37:14 2011 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Thu, 30 Jun 2011 11:37:14 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Miata Seat Conversion Kit - New Production Run Message-ID: <192648.1cc8770c.3b3df22a@cs.com> Commercial Comment for Sean Alexander For you that have been asking.....Sean just completed another production run, has packaged, and on the shelf ready to ship..... 25 Kits several gone already. the-vintage-racer.com Thanks! From don.hiscock at gmail.com Thu Jun 30 09:57:04 2011 From: don.hiscock at gmail.com (Don Hiscock) Date: Thu, 30 Jun 2011 17:57:04 +0200 Subject: [TR] 1958 Works Monte Carlo Rally TR3A Valve Cover Info? In-Reply-To: <1309447317.36079.YahooMailNeo@web28307.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> References: <1309447317.36079.YahooMailNeo@web28307.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Message-ID: John, your info is most appreciated, and is a big help to understanding what's "real" on these early race/rally cars. Many thanks to you and Paul Richardson. There have been so many chances for changes over the long life of these vehicles that it's hard for us enthusiasts to understand what's authentic and what's a later addition. Our predecessors were pretty smart guys. They almost always did what they did for good reason, and even 50+ years on it's often hard to make improvements. I would have guessed the speed of a rally wouldn't need bonnet straps, and if that alloy finned valve cover was a real upgrade it would be a lot more common. Still that TR3A is a *very* neat car, and one I'd be proud to own... Don TR3B TSF202L ..which is making progress toward running again for its 50th birthday in April 2012... On Thu, Jun 30, 2011 at 5:21 PM, John Macartney wrote: > Following up on Don Hiscock's query of 28th June about the 1958 TR3A > 'Works' Rally car. I've had a lengthy phone conversation today with my chum > Paul Richardson (son of Ken) has an extensive photo library of all the works > cars his Dad either drove or master-minded in their preparation. He's > checked all his pix on the car in question and has said: > > 1. At no time during the cars rally life with S-T did it have bonnet > straps. Cars used at Le Mans in racing guise were strapped but not the rally > cars. > 2. The rocker cover is a later addition. Richardson (Ken) was always > anxious to keep weight to a minimum and the shape of the current cover with > its flip oil filler would have almost certainly been heavier than the normal > steel pressing, so no advantage there. > > Paul may see if he can do an article on this car for The Vintage Triumph > but it depends on his time, the car's availability and the distance from his > home. Hope this helps? > > Jonmac From anabil007 at comcast.net Thu Jun 30 10:24:03 2011 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Thu, 30 Jun 2011 09:24:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] Brake Bleeder Screw (up) Message-ID: Finally finished replacing the differential, and AnnaBelle and were bleeding the rear brakes ... no problem. When I went to the front I was dismayed to find the bleeder screw was snapped off level with the caliper ... Checked the other side and found the screw intact but when I tried to loosen it, it was clear that it was "frozen" in place so I stopped. Any way ... short of replacing the calipers ... that this can be fixed ?? Thanks for your time ... -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA From pethier at comcast.net Thu Jun 30 10:48:31 2011 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 30 Jun 2011 16:48:31 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] VTR Autocross Team Event? In-Reply-To: <7F028B77-2D60-49B7-8287-FF6DF9DD2ACC@comcast.net> Message-ID: <175478066.66352.1309452511941.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Bud Rolofson" > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Thursday, June 30, 2011 12:14:32 AM > Subject: [TR] VTR Autocross Team Event? > Yes that's right a TEAM Autocross Event. > > At this point it's just a wild idea but I'd like to test the waters > here on the list to see if there would be any interest in driving a > car around the cones that has left side steering but right side > pedals. This car is a 2002 350 Z 6 speed that has been altered to the > prior mentioned configuration. I haven't seen it yet but that's the > gist of it. That's the most psychotic thing I have heard today. Sign me up. But I get to vet my codriver, not take some randomly-assigned person. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://www.mnautox.com From pethier at comcast.net Thu Jun 30 10:54:02 2011 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 30 Jun 2011 16:54:02 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Brake Bleeder Screw (up) In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1297420810.66682.1309452842642.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> I'd start with a left-handed drill. Don't forget to reverse the drill motor. Do not drill for an EZ-out with a conventional right-handed drill. You will tighten the screw. I have found that in the cases where the left-handed drill did not loosen a broken bolt, the EZ-out didn't work anyway. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1973 Triumph Stag LE22439UBW "uncle jack", Sapphire Blue 2004 Suburban 8.1, Sport Red, the only automatic of the bunch 2005 Lotus Elise, Bordeaux Red Pearl 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, Berry Red pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://www.mnautox.com ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Bill" > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Thursday, June 30, 2011 11:24:03 AM > Subject: [TR] Brake Bleeder Screw (up) > Finally finished replacing the differential, and AnnaBelle and were > bleeding the rear brakes ... no problem. When I went to the front I > was dismayed to find the bleeder screw was snapped off level with the > caliper ... Checked the other side and found the screw intact but > when I tried to loosen it, it was clear that it was "frozen" in place > so I stopped. > > Any way ... short of replacing the calipers ... that this can be fixed > ?? From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Thu Jun 30 11:47:58 2011 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Thu, 30 Jun 2011 10:47:58 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 oil cooler Message-ID: <1309456078.61853.YahooMailRC@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> thinking of adding an oil cooler to my TR3. looking at a few different kits. im quite capable of figuring my own installation. most appear to screw onto the filter assembly like the modern filter kit. i have seen some that appear to go between the filter assembly and the block. i think they look like they may perform better? yes/no? was looking in the way back machine and Teriann talked of some ones kit. but then i lost the link to your comment and cant find it again. doh! recommendations? thanks Frank From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Jun 30 11:58:57 2011 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 30 Jun 2011 13:58:57 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Brake Bleeder Screw (up) Message-ID: <545e2.7ae84d1e.3b3e1361@cs.com> In a message dated 6/30/2011 11:37:51 AM Central Daylight Time, anabil007 at comcast.net writes: > Finally finished replacing the differential, and AnnaBelle and were > bleeding the rear brakes ... no problem. When I went to the front I > was dismayed to find the bleeder screw was snapped off level with the > caliper ... Checked the other side and found the screw intact but > when I tried to loosen it, it was clear that it was "frozen" in place > so I stopped. > > Any way ... short of replacing the calipers ... that this can be fixed ?? > I never snapped mine off but in fear of doing so I started bleeding my calipers by loosening the cross-over pipe. But that was before I sent them off to Peter for rebuilding and he got them out somehow. The bleeders work just fine now, thank you. Not literally replacing but a remove and rebuild operation. Call Peter at NOS Imports and see what he says. Wouldn't you like some stainless steel pistons anyway? NFI Just a satisfied customer. Dave From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jun 30 12:08:36 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 30 Jun 2011 11:08:36 -0700 Subject: [TR] interior insulation - TR3 In-Reply-To: <1309437749.33615.YahooMailRC@web39420.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <1309437749.33615.YahooMailRC@web39420.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <001f01cc3750$bee96560$3cbc3020$@rr.com> > I'm wondering if that's MY PROBLEM of getting 'vapor lock' when on long > drives in 90^ temperatures, Just a thought, have you tried using a different ignition coil? My nearly-new Lucas Sports coil has apparently gone thermally intermittent: it works (more or less) when cold, but the spark gets progressively weaker as it heats up. Tuesday, while driving in stop-and-go traffic (ambient only about 80F, but underhood pushing 200F) the engine started misfiring badly, then when I pushed in the clutch it died completely and refused to restart. After it cooled off (and a new condenser was installed), the engine started rough, but then idled smoothly. But as soon as it got thoroughly warmed up again, the ignition quit again. A different coil seems to have solved the problem. On that topic (sorry for the thread drift) has anyone ever had problems with a Pertronix "FlameThrower" coil? -- Randall From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Thu Jun 30 12:16:58 2011 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Thu, 30 Jun 2011 18:16:58 +0000 Subject: [TR] Shock rebuilder? Message-ID: Hi List, One of my friends needs some knee action shocks rebuilt and I have forgotten which shop I used for the TR3A. Which rebuilder do you recommend. Thanks. Best regards, Tom From tony at tonydrews.com Thu Jun 30 12:22:37 2011 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Thu, 30 Jun 2011 13:22:37 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 oil cooler In-Reply-To: <1309456078.61853.YahooMailRC@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1309456078.61853.YahooMailRC@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20110630182250.3FB1C187643@autox.team.net> The ones that screw on in place of the oil filter will send lower pressure to the cooler than the sandwich plate ones. The sandwich plate is before the pressure relief valve and the oil filter side is after the sandwich plate. But, if you install the oil filter replacement one you'll need a remote oil filter unless it has provision for the oil filter built in. I like the Canton Mecca remote ones - 8 micron, no bypass, easy to replace the element (but a bit messy). The output from the oil pump can easily exceed 100 psi cold, and some folks have split coolers with the sandwich plate arrangement - many others have operated it successfully though. Tony Drews At 12:47 PM 6/30/2011, Frank Fisher wrote: >thinking of adding an oil cooler to my TR3. >looking at a few different kits. >im quite capable of figuring my own installation. >most appear to screw onto the filter assembly like the modern filter kit. >i have seen some that appear to go between the filter assembly and >the block. i >think they look like they may perform better? yes/no? >was looking in the way back machine and Teriann talked of some ones kit. but >then i lost the link to your comment and cant find it again. doh! >recommendations? >thanks >Frank > > >triumphs at autox.team.net > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tony at tonydrews.com From terryrs at comcast.net Thu Jun 30 12:30:24 2011 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 30 Jun 2011 18:30:24 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3A Blown Head Gasket (Again) In-Reply-To: <1309456078.61853.YahooMailRC@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <141025002.78714.1309458624841.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Blew the head gasket on my 3 again. Last time was at the end of last year's driving season, so really only have a thousand miles on the replacement. This time I plan to take the head in to the machine shop to have it checked for warpage and cracks. Also, checking archives I came across the thread about (Marly?) who sells head gaskets with an o-ring added, that Randall mentioned solved his head gasket problems (until his car was wrecked a couple of years ago). Is Marly still around, and anybody have his address or one to find a similar head gasket? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From dkspence at telus.net Thu Jun 30 12:40:00 2011 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence) Date: Thu, 30 Jun 2011 12:40:00 -0600 Subject: [TR] Miata Seat Conversion Kit - New Production Run In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Anyone know if this fits/works in a TR4A solid axle On 30-Jun-11, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > From: N197TR4 at cs.com > Date: June 30, 2011 9:37:14 AM MDT (CA) > To: 6pack at autox.team.net, triumphs at autox.team.net > Cc: alex3rail at gmail.com > Subject: [TR] Miata Seat Conversion Kit - New Production Run > > > Commercial Comment for Sean Alexander > > For you that have been asking.....Sean just completed another > production > run, has packaged, and on the shelf ready to ship..... 25 Kits > several > gone already. > > the-vintage-racer.com > > Thanks! From TR250Driver at aol.com Thu Jun 30 13:42:32 2011 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Thu, 30 Jun 2011 15:42:32 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Side of the Road Message-ID: <6fd1a.6dd34859.3b3e2ba8@aol.com> It has to be at least 10 years old or more. Not sure what it is till I get it out. Darrell In a message dated 6/29/2011 3:05:09 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, allenhess at mgcarclub.com writes: Do you know how old the hose is? An original or a sub-standard replacement? (presuming that many replacement parts are not as good as we would like them to be) Allen From terryrs at comcast.net Thu Jun 30 14:47:59 2011 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 30 Jun 2011 20:47:59 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3A Blown Head Gasket (Again) In-Reply-To: <141025002.78714.1309458624841.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1791167733.85887.1309466879420.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> >Blew the head gasket on my 3 again. I should add that I ran the car a bit over 50,000 miles on the first head gasket. The liners are appropriately proud...as am I! Terry From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jun 30 14:53:41 2011 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 30 Jun 2011 13:53:41 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Blown Head Gasket (Again) In-Reply-To: <141025002.78714.1309458624841.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1309456078.61853.YahooMailRC@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <141025002.78714.1309458624841.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <007f01cc3767$cb994340$62cbc9c0$@rr.com> > Also, checking archives I came across the thread about (Marly?) who > sells head gaskets with an o-ring added, that Randall mentioned solved > his head gasket problems (until his car was wrecked a couple of years > ago). > > Is Marly still around, and anybody have his address or one to find a > similar head gasket? You might be thinking of Mordy Dunst, who runs GasketWorks: http://www.headgasket.com/ However, just for clarity, I did not buy a head gasket from Mordy. Instead I added copper "fire rings" to a stock composition head gasket myself. The result worked well on that motor; and I've done the same thing again to my current TR3 motor. Which oddly enough has exactly the same problem as the other one (which was also an early TR3 motor, not the original motor for the wrecked car). In both cases, the tops of the liners were not parallel with the top of the block, resulting in liner protrusion that was out of spec only on one side! Here's a photo, before installation: http://tinyurl.com/2f6lvq5 -- Randall From auprichard at uprichard.net Thu Jun 30 14:58:25 2011 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Thu, 30 Jun 2011 16:58:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Blown Head Gasket (Again) In-Reply-To: <141025002.78714.1309458624841.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1309456078.61853.YahooMailRC@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <141025002.78714.1309458624841.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: What type of head gasket? Touch wood, I have never had a problem with the copper gaskets I use. Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of terryrs at comcast.net Sent: Thursday, June 30, 2011 2:30 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR3A Blown Head Gasket (Again) Blew the head gasket on my 3 again. Last time was at the end of last year's driving season, so really only have a thousand miles on the replacement. This time I plan to take the head in to the machine shop to have it checked for warpage and cracks. Also, checking archives I came across the thread about (Marly?) who sells head gaskets with an o-ring added, that Randall mentioned solved his head gasket problems (until his car was wrecked a couple of years ago). Is Marly still around, and anybody have his address or one to find a similar head gasket? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From auprichard at uprichard.net Thu Jun 30 15:04:52 2011 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Thu, 30 Jun 2011 17:04:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] torque thrust wheel References: <1e70c.36908880.3b36604d@aol.com> <1B0658A4F25F480C8463959CBC1A5F31@DCH6RFC1> <1309092665.99744.YahooMailNeo@web36102.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Does anyone on the list know where I could get one 6" American torque thrust mag wheel for myTR250? I have three 6" wheels and one 5.5" (which I guess I could use as a spare). I realize they are hard to find, but maybe there's one out there. Thanks in advance. Andrew Uprichard 1962 TR3B 1968 TR250 From dwillner at ptd.net Thu Jun 30 15:18:04 2011 From: dwillner at ptd.net (davewillner) Date: Thu, 30 Jun 2011 17:18:04 -0400 Subject: [TR] Back on the road after 3 years Message-ID: <795A4D9D06D64C5FA3E136401765BE62@valued9cfc0b6f> Took the TR3 out this afternoon for her first "shakedown" and sorting out" run in three years, and happy to report that all went very well with no surprises what so ever. Spent about 45 minutes on some nice roads and just a few on the highway, registered a strong 70lbs oil pressure and ran at 180 degrees the entire time. After a complete rebuild all around, my only hiccup at this point, and I can't quite figure this one, is that my front blinkers don't blink when my headlights are, although the rears do. And yet they work fine when the lights are off, I'll figure that one out not a biggie... Anyway, I'm excited to be in a car again I can drive like the 4th of July this 4th. She's no longer Apple Green, but a very dark BRG from a Jaguar code, with a nice new light stone interior. I do want to thank everyone for all the timely and excellent help, I really appreciate it, sure I'll have more questions soon. And as of today I'm officially done driving my wife's MG, its nice, but not me... Dave Willner Stroudsburg PA 59 TR3A 70 MGB 70 BSA 441 VS From ambritts at bellsouth.net Thu Jun 30 15:25:34 2011 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Thu, 30 Jun 2011 17:25:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] interior insulation - TR3 In-Reply-To: References: <1309437749.33615.YahooMailRC@web39420.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <47167ABD360A483A949BA659C5783734@AlexPC> I solved the heat problem through the tunnel the following way. My metal tunnel is lined on the underside (transmission side) with the aluminum bubble insulation you can buy at Lowes. I installed it 4 years ago with a good spray adhesive and then sprayed it black. You can not even detect it unless you look very close. It's a tight fit with the tranny but very doable. If you are concerned or have the rubber plugs for the dipstick with the transmission tunnel, adjust accordingly. I welded my tunnel access shut. That coupled with the under liner for the wool carpeting eliminated ALL the heat from that area. Alex Manzo 59 TR3A ----- Original Message ----- From: "Carl TR" To: "'Cosmo Kramer'" ; Sent: Thursday, June 30, 2011 10:25 AM Subject: Re: [TR] interior insulation - TR3 > Welcome back! > > First - the insulation is for inside the cockpit; not in the engine > compartment. I live in Florida and if I can't get the ambient temp of > the > cockpit within reason - my wife will never ride in the TR.... and it will > be less enjoyable for me. > > Radiator shrouds (you don't mention which car) are designed to force air > through the radiator - cooling the water - cooling the internal engine. > The > fan is designed to aid in pulling that air through the radiator (when the > car is in motion). If the ambient air temperature is 90^ or better - it > has > less effect on cooling the water. The electric fans help by generating > air > flow when the car is not in motion. > > There are only two places for the air to escape the engine compartment (on > a > TR3 but similar for other cars) -through the vent slots at the top rear > edge > of the bonnet/hood or under the car (through the transmission tunnel). > Since the top escape is limited - most of the heat is directed down and > back > - against the firewall and through the tunnel. That creates the large > amount of heat in the cockpit area. It is aggravated by the placement of > the exhaust system(first muffler) under the passenger side. Hence the > desire > to insulate the cockpit. R15(x2) on the firewall; floor; tranny tunnel; > R15 > elsewhere. Also it will provide some relief from road noise (when the > curtains/hood are installed) > > It is my understanding that some racers install a deflector at the bottom > of > the radiator which helps create a negative pressure behind the radiator > and > below the front of the engine. This helps pull the hot air (after the > radiator) down and below the car rather than into the firewall and then > down > into the tunnel. I have installed a 1 1/2" deflector in the front cross > member below the radiator (it also protects the alloy sump). We'll see if > it helps. > > As to vapor lock... Do you have a heat shield between the manifold and > carbs? Again - the hot air generated by the manifold has to go > somewhere... > the shield deflects it to the rear of the carbs so that it can then flow > up > (or down) and out of the engine compartment. > > Carl From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com Thu Jun 30 15:29:23 2011 From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher) Date: Thu, 30 Jun 2011 14:29:23 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3A Blown Head Gasket (Again) In-Reply-To: <007f01cc3767$cb994340$62cbc9c0$@rr.com> References: <1309456078.61853.YahooMailRC@web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <141025002.78714.1309458624841.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <007f01cc3767$cb994340$62cbc9c0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <1309469363.45935.YahooMailRC@web120209.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> after building buddy Curt's motor we also blew a head gasket within 500 miles. at build time the liners showed protrusion, but after being torqued down and puled the head, we found the protrusion to be less that spec, on one side also. in replacing the composition head gasket i used Randall's copper ring method. car is running great, no problems after 2000 miles. in future im going to use this method no matter what the protrusion of the liners. Frank ________________________________ From: Randall To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, June 30, 2011 1:53:41 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Blown Head Gasket (Again) > Also, checking archives I came across the thread about (Marly?) who > sells head gaskets with an o-ring added, that Randall mentioned solved > his head gasket problems (until his car was wrecked a couple of years > ago). > > Is Marly still around, and anybody have his address or one to find a > similar head gasket? You might be thinking of Mordy Dunst, who runs GasketWorks: http://www.headgasket.com/ However, just for clarity, I did not buy a head gasket from Mordy. Instead I added copper "fire rings" to a stock composition head gasket myself. The result worked well on that motor; and I've done the same thing again to my current TR3 motor. Which oddly enough has exactly the same problem as the other one (which was also an early TR3 motor, not the original motor for the wrecked car). In both cases, the tops of the liners were not parallel with the top of the block, resulting in liner protrusion that was out of spec only on one side! Here's a photo, before installation: http://tinyurl.com/2f6lvq5 -- Randall triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3 at yahoo.com From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Jun 30 17:00:04 2011 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 30 Jun 2011 19:00:04 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Back on the road after 3 years Message-ID: <6b9f.549f0127.3b3e59f4@cs.com> In a message dated 6/30/2011 4:37:27 PM Central Daylight Time, dwillner at ptd.net writes: > Took the TR3 out this afternoon for her first "shakedown" and sorting > out" run > in three years, and happy to report that all went very well with no > surprises > what so ever. > Congratulations! I/m Jealous. Only three years?!! I must be in year five or six on mine and I'm still a year out, I think. Dave From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Thu Jun 30 18:36:34 2011 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Thu, 30 Jun 2011 17:36:34 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 oil cooler Message-ID: <1309480594.54475.YahooMailClassic@web83304.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I put in an oil cooler awhile back. I bought the kind that goes between the filter head and the block. I bought it because it came with an integral thermostatic bypass valve for when the oil is cold. I took it off because it leaked and plan to put it back on someday. It made a big difference in oil pressure on hot days with a clapped out engine. I bought the filter from MOSS UK. The guy at LBCarCo picked it up for me on a parts trip to UK and had it shipped over somehow. Good service. Before that I had another oil cooler without a thermostatic bypass that went on the bottom of the filter head, but one cold winter day when I tried to start the car it tried to pump thick oil through the cooler and it all split open (the cooler, that is). My car runs at 185 F on the hottest day (a 114 day is the record so far!) and I am not really sure if a cooler is needed at this time. Good luck and let the list know what you come up with. Bill in Tehachapi From: Frank Fisher To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR3 oil cooler Message-ID: <1309456078.61853.YahooMailRC at web120202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" thinking of adding an oil cooler to my TR3. looking at a few different kits. im quite capable of figuring my own installation. most appear to screw onto the filter assembly like the modern filter kit. i have seen some that appear to go between the filter assembly and the block. i think they look like they may perform better? yes/no? was looking in the way back machine and Teriann talked of some ones kit. but then i lost the link to your comment and cant find it again. doh! recommendations? thanks Frank From triumphs at consolidated.net Thu Jun 30 20:27:30 2011 From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Ken Gano, home PC) Date: Thu, 30 Jun 2011 21:27:30 -0500 Subject: [TR] Stag accident in Alaska Message-ID: My son sent me this from his local paper. Tragic, indeed. http://www.adn.com/2011/06/30/1945272/mechanical-factors-may-have-led.html Ken Gano From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com Thu Jun 30 20:36:10 2011 From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 30 Jun 2011 22:36:10 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] New Frame Message-ID: <61a0.5dead4ce.3b3e8c9a@aol.com> I'd like to chat off line with anyone who has purchased and installed a new frame from Ratco. No problem, just a desire to learn from someone who has gone through the process, as I'm just about to do the same for my TR4A. Thanks. George Haynes From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com Thu Jun 30 20:56:59 2011 From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad) Date: Thu, 30 Jun 2011 19:56:59 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Miata Seat Conversion Kit - New Production Run In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <714759.37850.qm@web120509.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> TR4a straight axle has the same floors as a 4a IRS as a TR6, so I would say Yes. Chad in Tulsa ________________________________ From: Don Spence To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, June 30, 2011 1:40:00 PM Subject: [TR] Miata Seat Conversion Kit - New Production Run Anyone know if this fits/works in a TR4A solid axle On 30-Jun-11, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > From: N197TR4 at cs.com > Date: June 30, 2011 9:37:14 AM MDT (CA) > To: 6pack at autox.team.net, triumphs at autox.team.net > Cc: alex3rail at gmail.com > Subject: [TR] Miata Seat Conversion Kit - New Production Run > > > Commercial Comment for Sean Alexander > > For you that have been asking.....Sean just completed another > production > run, has packaged, and on the shelf ready to ship..... 25 Kits > several > gone already. > > the-vintage-racer.com > > Thanks! triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com From sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com Thu Jun 30 21:05:20 2011 From: sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com (Steve Thornton) Date: Thu, 30 Jun 2011 22:05:20 -0500 Subject: [TR] New Frame In-Reply-To: <61a0.5dead4ce.3b3e8c9a@aol.com> References: <61a0.5dead4ce.3b3e8c9a@aol.com> Message-ID: <481926A4-CD1B-4969-A4F4-97EC038C02D0@stevethorntonlaw.com> I did it. Great decision. Worth the money in my opinion. Steven O. Thornton Attorney at Law 1011 Lehman Avenue Suite 102 Bowling Green, KY 42103 270-781-6630 Sent from my iPhone On Jun 30, 2011, at 10:05 PM, "GHaynesTR4 at aol.com" wrote: > I'd like to chat off line with anyone who has purchased and installed a new > frame from Ratco. No problem, just a desire to learn from someone who has > gone through the process, as I'm just about to do the same for my TR4A. > Thanks. > George Haynes > > > triumphs at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.co m From wbeech at flash.net Thu Jun 30 21:11:02 2011 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Fri, 01 Jul 2011 03:11:02 -0000 Subject: [TR] Back on the road after 3 years In-Reply-To: <795A4D9D06D64C5FA3E136401765BE62@valued9cfc0b6f> References: <795A4D9D06D64C5FA3E136401765BE62@valued9cfc0b6f> Message-ID: Outstanding, enjoy the ride this weekend! Forget the lights, your not supposed to be out after dusk anyway. Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of davewillner Sent: Thursday, June 30, 2011 3:18 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Back on the road after 3 years Took the TR3 out this afternoon for her first "shakedown" and sorting out" run in three years, and happy to report that all went very well with no surprises what so ever. Spent about 45 minutes on some nice roads and just a few on the highway, registered a strong 70lbs oil pressure and ran at 180 degrees the entire time. After a complete rebuild all around, my only hiccup at this point, and I can't quite figure this one, is that my front blinkers don't blink when my headlights are, although the rears do. And yet they work fine when the lights are off, I'll figure that one out not a biggie... Anyway, I'm excited to be in a car again I can drive like the 4th of July this 4th. She's no longer Apple Green, but a very dark BRG from a Jaguar code, with a nice new light stone interior. I do want to thank everyone for all the timely and excellent help, I really appreciate it, sure I'll have more questions soon. And as of today I'm officially done driving my wife's MG, its nice, but not me... Dave Willner Stroudsburg PA 59 TR3A 70 MGB 70 BSA 441 VS triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From spitfire at freebacon.net Thu Jun 30 21:20:37 2011 From: spitfire at freebacon.net (Mike Welch) Date: Thu, 30 Jun 2011 21:20:37 -0600 Subject: [TR] British Car Publication CDs In-Reply-To: References: <1309147809.v2.mailanyonewebmail-234588@fuseweb2d> Message-ID: A few possibilities: http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/ubbthreads.php/topics/682606/Re_Heritage_Motor_Centre_CDs http://club.myce.com/f80/hexalock-204559/index7.html I haven't tried either approach with mine yet, probably try tomorrow after work. Mike Welch Colorado Springs, CO '69 Triumph Spitfire MkIII x2 '69 Honda SL350